A GUIDE 
 
 TO 
 
 THE LAKES, 
 
 IN 
 
 CUMBERLAND, WESTMORLAND, 
 
 AND 
 
 LANCASHIRE. 
 
 By the Author of The Antiquities of Furnefs, 
 
 For Nature here 
 Wanton'd as in her prime, and play'd at wil 
 Her virgin fancies. 
 
 Wild above rule or art [and beauteous form'd] 
 A happy rural feat of various view. 
 
 Paradife loft, 
 
 »"»"»"»">"»-0"<"<«"<"<"«"< 
 
 THE FIFTH EDITION. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 VBIKTSS FOR W. RICHARDSON, UNDER THE ROYAL ZXCRANSSJ 
 |. ROBSON, AND W. CLARKE, NEW BOND STRXXTJ 
 AM> W. PENNINGTON> KSNOAL. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 TO 
 
 THE SECOND EDITION. 
 
 rr^HE fpeedy fale of the jirfi edition of this 
 work has induced the publifhers to ufe their 
 heji endeavours to make the prefent one fiill more 
 worthy of public encouragement ^ by fubjeding it to 
 fuch alterations and improvements as were judged 
 necejfary to complete its deftgn, — and of which it 
 juay be here proper to give fome account. 
 
 The many imperfeSlions of flile and compofttion 
 which but too evidently appeared in the Jirji im- 
 prejfton are attempted to be r edified in this. Some 
 additional matter is introduced into the body of the 
 text, and a few notes are inferted on incidental 
 fubjeSls^ which were thought to be properly allied 
 to the leading one* Befides an elegant frontifpiece, 
 an Addenda is fubjoined, containing a colledion 
 of feveral valuable mifcellaneous pieces which have 
 occafionally appeared refpeding the lakes, A7id a 
 friend of the publifhers has communicated an ori- 
 ginal article^ colled A Tour to the Caves, 
 which it is hoped will not only entertain, but be 
 ^ found 
 
vi 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 found particularly accurate as to matter of fa6l. — 
 In jhort^ the publijhers have done every thing in 
 their power to make this Guide as complete and 
 ufeful as its ohjedl is curious and popular. 
 
 Guides of every denomination Jhould he well 
 acquainted with the regions in which they exercife 
 their vocation, and it mufl he natural for the pur- 
 chafers of this inanual to wijh to know fomething 
 of its author, and the pretentions he has to claim 
 their implicit confidence in the character he affwnes' 
 This curirfity may now be properly indulged, as 
 he is no longer within the reach of either praife 
 or cenfure : — But what we have to fay on the 
 fubjed will be very fhort, 
 
 Mr. West, late of Ulverston, author of 
 this traSl, and alfo of the Antiquities of Fur- 
 ness, is fuppofed to have had the chief part of his 
 education on the Continent, where he afterwards 
 prefided as a projeffor in fome of the branches of 
 natural philofophy : whence it will appear, that 
 though, upon fome account or other, he had not ac- 
 quired the habit of compofing corredly in Enghjh^ 
 he mufi neverthelefs have been a man of learning. 
 He had fen many parts of Europe, and con- 
 fidered what was extraordinary in them with a 
 curious, if not with a judicious and philofophic eye. 
 Having in the latter part of his life much leifure 
 time on his hands, he frequently accompanied gen- 
 teel parties on the Tour cxp the Lakes ; and 
 
 after 
 
PREFACE. vii 
 itfter he had formed the defign of drawing up his 
 Q^^iT^^, befides confulting the mofi ejleemed writers 
 on thefubjea r as Dr, Brown, Meffrs. Gray, 
 Young, Pennant, ^c,J he look feverai journeys 
 on purpofe to examine the lakes, and to colled fuch 
 information concerning them, fr 6m the neighhournig 
 gentlemen, as he thought neceffary to complete the 
 'work, and make it truly deferving of its title. 
 From the/e particulars, and the internal evidence 
 if the following pages, it is prefumed the reader 
 will befatisfied, that the author was, in the mofi 
 effential refpeds, well qualified for his undertaking. 
 And fhould fome of his digreffions into antiquity 
 he thought too long, or a few defcriptions want 
 precfton, and now and then a fiat ion be dubiou/ly 
 pointed out, -if on the whole, the matter be fi 
 leded by no uniform plan, let it be remembered, 
 few writers of tours have been able to avoid ble- 
 mijhes of thfs kind, and that the chief end of the 
 -work ts accomplifhed, if along with due copioufnefs. 
 It be authentic in the principal articles of local 
 information. 
 
 Before the author's death (which happened very 
 lately*) he had colleded fome new matter for this 
 b ^ tra5l, 
 
 fealoTth'^sf -t' ^ °' ^^^9, at the ancient 
 
 feat of the Stncklands, at Sizergh, in Weftmorland, in the 
 lixty-th.rd year of his age; and. according to his own re- 
 quell was interred in the choir, or chapel, belonging to the 
 Strickland fam.ly, ,n Kendal church.-As he was a man of 
 worth, as well as ingenuity, this further fhort memorial of 
 ftis exit will not need an apology. 
 
via PREFACE. 
 
 traa^ which is introduced in the prefent edition 
 in the manner he deftgned ; but the revifion of 
 the language, l^c. mentioned above, fell of courfe 
 to another perfon ; and, in jujiice to him and the 
 author, it is proper to fay here in what manner 
 it has been executed. 
 
 As there is fomething particular, and often plea- 
 fing, in the author s firokes of defcripiion, and 
 manner of thinking, care has been taken, all along, 
 to preferve his ideas, as much as poffible, in his 
 own order, terms, and mode of conftruElion, A 
 few needlefs repetitions and redundancies have, 
 indeed, been retrenched, but little has been added 
 which was not neceffary to complete the fenfe. 
 On this account, as 'the work is in itfef more of 
 an ufeful than entertaining nature, it is prefumed 
 the judicious reader will not yet expe^ elegance 
 of language, but be fatisfed if, on the whole, he 
 find it decently perfpicuous and correal. 
 
 Septemlor 28, 1 779. 
 
 ADVER- 
 
( it ) 
 
 ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 TO 
 
 THIS EDITION. 
 
 /N each of the Succeeding editions of this work 
 ruch corredions and additions have been made 
 as occurred, from the heji information that could &e 
 procured, in order to make it Jiill more and more 
 complete: particular attention having thus been 
 paid to the accuracy of fads, it is hoped it will 
 now be found very authentic and fatisfadory. T9 
 this fifth edition is added a view of Lowdore, 
 from a drawing, by Mr. Farington, and engraved 
 by Mr. Byrne. 
 
 The two views which have been feleSied to en- 
 grave for this work may ferve to give a general 
 idea of the features of the country. The view of 
 Grafmere is in the placid rural Jlile, with its 
 magnificent accompaniments, and that of Lowdore 
 exhibits a fpecimen of the rude grandeur of the 
 environs of Kef wick. 
 
 As a work of this kind is of courfe intended for 
 general ufe, the publijhers could not be expeded to 
 
( X ) 
 
 ^ofar into this expenftve /pedes of ornament, but to 
 thofe who would uijh for fuch an appendage, it 
 may be fatisfadory to notice here, that a feries of 
 Views of the Lakes, of a proper fze to bind up 
 with this Guide, will be pubdjhed in the courfe of 
 the prefent year *. 
 
 May I, 1793. 
 
 * See the advertlfement at the end of this book, alfo a lift 
 •f the views by Mr. Farington. 
 
 TABLE 
 
( ) 
 
 TABLE OF THE LAKES*, 
 
 IN THE ORDER THEY ARE DESCRIRED. 
 
 FAGB. 
 
 1. Contjion-water - - - - 46 
 
 2. EJihwaite-water - . - "54 
 
 3. Winder mere-water - - - 
 
 4. Rydal-wdter - - - - 81 
 
 5. Grafmere-water - - . - 8l 
 
 6. Leathes-ivater - - - . 84 
 
 7. Derwent-zvater - - » - 87 
 
 8. Bajfenthwaite -water . - - - 118 
 
 9. Buttermere-water - - - 127 
 
 10. Cromack-wuter - - - ■ ^37 
 
 11. Lowes-water - - - - 1^8 
 
 1 2. Ulls-waier - - - . j (-q: 
 
 13. Haws -water - - - - 161 
 
 THE CHIEF TOWNS, 
 
 DESCRIBED (oR PASSED THROUGH) IN THIS TOUR; 
 
 Lancajier - - - - _ 1^ 
 Cartmel - - - - - ' gi 
 Vluerjton - - - . • - 36 
 
 Valton 
 
 * Befides thefe lakes there are feveral others not yet notic- 
 ed by writers, as IVaJl-ivater, Elter-nuater^ Broad-water &C. 
 If the reafon of this negleft be not on accouut of their pof- 
 feffing no peculiar beauties, but the badnefs of the roads which 
 lead to them, they may afford new objedls for the difcovery 
 and defcription of future tourijls of taile and curiofity. 
 
C ) 
 
 PACE. 
 
 JDalt'^n in Furnefs - - - - 42 
 
 ( Hawkjhead ) - - - - ^54 
 
 Amhlefide _ - . - . - ^5 
 
 Kefwick 87 
 
 Penrith - - - - - -165 
 
 fShapJ - - - - - - 171 
 
 Kendal 17^ 
 
 (Burton in Kendal) - - - 186 
 
 ARTICLES 
 
 CONTAINED IN THE ADDENDA 
 
 ART. 
 
 I. Dr. Brown's defcription of the njale 
 
 and lake of Kefwick - - 195 
 
 II. Extract from Dr. Dalton^s defcrip- 
 
 tive poem - - - - 199 
 
 III. Mr. Gray^s journal of his northern 
 
 tour - - - - 201 
 
 IV. Mr. Cumberland's ode to the fun - 226 
 
 V. Defcription of Dwiald-inill-hole - 231 
 
 VI. Defcription of natural curiofiiies in 
 
 the edge of Torkjhire - - 233 
 
 VII. A Tour to the Caves in the Wefi- 
 
 riding of Torkfhire - 239 
 VUL Further account of Furnefs Fells ^ ^c. 287 
 
 IX. Account of Ennerdale - - 296 
 
 X. Specimens of the Cumberland dialed 299 
 IX» Some remarks on the provincial words, 
 
 i^c. of the North - « 305 
 
 A GUIDE 
 
of the 
 
 LAKES • 
 Cumberland .Wcllmorland 
 
 Lancaihire. 
 
 a/v rna/'A'e^ f/u/.e - 
 
 J/uf/iT'Jcr 0 
 
 * — ' 
 
 ^Mn.i.Tnhoi 
 
 ►-^ Kent mere 
 Taj-n 
 
 y/y<.vy Srjiti/ir 
 
 t — 
 
A GUIDE 
 
 TO 
 
 THE LAKES. 
 
 SINCE perfons of genius, talle, and obfer- 
 vation began to make the the tour of their 
 own country, and to give fuch pleafing accounts 
 of the natural hiftory, and improving ft ate of 
 the northern part of the kingdom, the fpirit of 
 vifiting them has diffufed itfelf among the cu- 
 rious of all ranks* 
 
 Particularly, the tafte for one branch of a no- 
 ble art*, (cheriftied under the protection of the 
 greateft of kings and bed of men) in which the 
 genius of Britain rivals that of ancient Greece 
 and modern Rome, induces many to vifit the 
 lakes of Cumberland, Weftmorland, and Lanca- 
 fliirej there to contemplate in Alpine fcenery, 
 
 B finiftied 
 
 Landfcape painting. 
 
2 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 finifhed in nature's higheft tints, the paftoral 
 and rural landfcape, exhibited in all their ftiles, 
 the foft, the rude, the romantic, and the fub- 
 lime; and of which perhaps like inrtances can 
 no where be foynd affembled in fo fmall a trad 
 of country. What may be nozv mentioned as 
 another inducement to vifit thefe natural beau- 
 ties, is the goodnefs of the roads, which are 
 much improved fmce Mr. Gray made his 
 tour in 1765, and Mr. Pennant his, in 1772. 
 The gentlemen of thefe counties have fet a 
 precedent worthy of imitation in the politeft 
 parts of the kingdom, by opening, at private 
 expencc, carriage roads for the eafe and fafety 
 of fuch as vifit the country; and the public 
 roads are equally properly attended to. And 
 if the entertainment at fome of the inns be 
 plain, it is accompanied with an eafy charge, 
 neatnefs, and attention. When the roads are 
 more frequented, the inns may perhaps be more 
 elegantly furniflied and expenfive ; but the en- 
 tertainment muft remain much the fame, as the 
 viands at prefent are not excelled in any other 
 quarter of the empire*. 
 
 The defign of the following flieets, is to en- 
 courage the tafte of vifiting the lakes, by fur- 
 niftiing the traveller with a Guide ; and for that 
 purpbfe, the writer has here collected and laid 
 
 before 
 
 * Since the firft edition of this work was printed, great 
 improvements have bee,n made in the inns. 
 
THE LAKES. 3 
 
 before him all the feleft flations and points of 
 view, noticed by thofe authors who have lail 
 made the tour of the lakes, verified by his own 
 repeated obfervations. He has alfo added, re- 
 marks on the principal objects, as they appear 
 viewed from the different flations; and fuch 
 other incidental information as he judged would 
 greatly facilitate and heighten the pleafure of 
 the tour, and relieve the traveller from the bur- 
 then of thofe tedious enquiries on the road, 
 or at the inns, which generally embarrafs, and 
 often miflead. 
 
 The local knowledge here communicated, will 
 not, however, injure, much lefs prevent, the 
 agreeable furprife that attends the firft fight of 
 fcenes that furpafs all defcription, and of ob- 
 jeas which will always affed the fpedator in the 
 highefl degree. 
 
 Such as wifh to unbend the mind from anx- 
 ious cares or fatiguing ftudies, will meet with 
 agreeable relaxation in making the tour of the 
 lakes. Something new will open itfelf at the 
 turn of every mountain, and a fucceffion of 
 ideas will be fupported by a perpetual change 
 of objeds, and a difplay of fcenes behind fcenes 
 in endlefs perfpeftive. The contemplative tra- 
 veller will be charmed with the fight of the 
 fweet retreats, that he will obferve in thefe 
 enchanting regions of calm repofe; and the 
 
 ^ 2 fanciful 
 
4 A GUII3E TO 
 
 fanciful may figuratively review the hurry and 
 buftle of bufy life (in all its gradations) in the 
 variety of unfliaded rills that hang on the moun- 
 tains fides, the hafty brooks that warble through 
 the dell, or the mighty torrents precipitating 
 themfelves at once with thundering noife from 
 tremendous, rocky heights ; all purfuing one 
 general end, their increafe in the vale, and their 
 union in the ocean. 
 
 Such as fpend their lives in cities, and their 
 time in crowds, will here meet with objefts that 
 will enlarge the mind, by contemplation, and 
 raife it from nature to nature's firft caufe. "Who- 
 ever takes a walk into thefe fcenes, muft return 
 penetrated with a fenfe of the Creator's power 
 in heaping mountains upon mountains, and en- 
 throning rocks upon rocks. And fuch exhibi- 
 tions of fublime and beautiful objefts, cannot but 
 excite at once both rapture and reverence. 
 
 When exercife and change of air are recom- 
 mended for health, the convalefcent will find 
 the latter here in the pureft ftate, and the for- 
 mer will be the concomitant of the tour. The 
 many hills and mountains of various heights, 
 feparated by narrow vales, through which the 
 air is aghated and hurried on, by a multiplicity 
 of brooks and mountain torrents, keep it in 
 conftant circulation, which is known to add 
 
 much 
 
THELAKES. 5 
 
 mudi to its purity. The water is alfo as pure 
 as the air, and on that account recommends 
 itfelf to the valetudinarian. 
 
 As there are few people, in eafy circuin- 
 ftances, but may find a motive for vifiting this 
 extraordinary region, fo more efpecially thofe 
 who intend to make the continental tour ihould 
 begin here ; as it will give in miniature an idea 
 of what they are to meet with there, in tra- 
 verfing the Alps and Appenines ; to which our 
 northern mountains are not inferior in beauty 
 of line, or variety of fummit, number of lakes, 
 and tranfparency of water ; not in colouring of 
 rock, or foftnefs of turf, but in height and ex- 
 tent only. The mountains here are all acccliible 
 to the fummit, and furnilh profpefts no lefs 
 furprifmg, and with more variety, than the Alps 
 themfelves. The tops of the higheft Alps are 
 inacceffible, being covered vi^ith everlafling fnow, 
 which commencing at regular heights above the 
 cultivated traGs, or wooded and verdant fides, 
 form indeed the higheft contraft in nature. For 
 there may be feen all the variety of climate 
 in one view. To this however we oppofe the 
 fight of the ocean, from the fummit of all the 
 higher mountains, as it appears interfered with 
 promontories, decorated with iilands, and ani- 
 mated with navigation; which adds greatly to 
 the perfedion and variety of all grand views. 
 
 Thofe 
 
6 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 Thofe who have traverfed the Alps, vlfited 
 the lake of Geneva, and viewed mount Blanc, 
 the hightft of the Glaziers, from the valley of 
 Chamouni, in Savoy, may ftill find entertainment 
 in this domeftic tour. To trace the analogy 
 and difFerencies of mountainous countries, fur- 
 nifties the obfervant traveller with amufement ; 
 and the travelled vifitor of the Cumbrian lakes 
 and mountains, will not be difappointed of plea- 
 fure in this particular*. 
 
 This Guide wall alfo be of ufe to the artift 
 who may purpofe to copy any of thefe views 
 and landfcapes, by direfting his choice of fta- 
 tions, and pointing out the principal objefts. 
 Yet it is not prefumed pofitively to decide on 
 thefe particulars, but only to fugged hints, that 
 may be adopted or reje^led, at his pleafure. 
 
 The late Mr. Gray was a great judge of 
 landfcapes, yet whoever makes choice of his fta- 
 tion at the three mile ftone from Lancafter, on the 
 
 Hornby 
 
 * In truth a more pleafing tour than thefe lakes hold out 
 to men of leifure and curiofity cannot be devifed. We pe- 
 netrate the Glaciers, traverfe the Rhone and the Rhine, whilfl: 
 our domeftic lakes of Ulls-water, Kefwick, and Windermere, 
 exhibit fcenes in fo fublime a flile, with fuch beautiful colour- 
 ings of rock, wood, and water, backed with fo tremendous 
 a difpofition of mountains, that if they do not fairly take the 
 lead of all the views of Europe, yet they are indifputably 
 fuch as no Englifh traveller fhould leave behind him. 
 
 Mr. Cumberland's Dedication to Mr, Romneyr 
 
THE LAKES. 7 
 
 Hornby road^ will fail in taking one of the fineft 
 afternoon rural views in England. The flation 
 he points out is a quarter of a mile too low, 
 and fomewhat too much to the left. The more' 
 advantageous ftation, as I apprehend, is on the 
 fouth fide of the great, or C)ueen's road, a little 
 higher than where Mr. Gray ftood ; for there 
 the vale is in full difplay, including a longer 
 reach of the river, and the wheel of Lune, form- 
 ing a high crowned ifthmus, fringed with tall 
 trees, that in time pall was the folitary fite of a 
 hermit*. A few trees preferved on purpofe by 
 the owner, conceal the nakednefs of Caton-moor 
 on the right, and render thg view complete. 
 
 By company from the fouth, the lakes may 
 be belt vifited by beginning with Haws-water, 
 and ending with Coniilon-water, or, vice verfa. 
 Mr. Gray began his tour with Ulls-water, but 
 did not fee all the lakes. Mr, Pennant pro- 
 ceeded from Conifton-water to Windermere-wa- 
 ter, &c. but omitted Ulls and Haws-waters. Mr. 
 Gray was too late in the feafon for enjoying 
 the beauties of profped and rural landfcape in 
 a mountainous country ; for in Oftober, the 
 dews lie long on the grafs in the morning, and 
 the clouds defcend foon in the evening, and 
 B 4 conceal 
 
 * Hugh, to whom William de Lancaftre, fixth Baron of 
 Kendal, gave a certain place called Aflceleros and Croc, to 
 look to his fiftiing in the river Loyn [or Lime.] 
 
 Burn's IVe/lmorland p. 31. 
 
8 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 conceal the mountains. Mr. Pennant was to& 
 early in the fpring, when the mountains were 
 mantled with fnow, and the dells were darkened 
 with impenetrable mift ; hence his gloomy de- 
 fcriptian of the beautiful and romantic vale of 
 St. John, in his journey from Amblefide to 
 Kefwick. Flora difplays few of her charms early 
 in May, in a country that has been chilled by 
 fcven winter months. 
 
 The befl feafon for vtfiting the lakes is from 
 the beginning of June to the end of Auguft *. 
 During thefe months the mountains are decked 
 in all the trim of fummer vegetation, and the 
 woods and trees which hang on the mountains 
 fides, and adorn the banks of the lakes, are 
 robed in every variety of foliage and fummer 
 bloom. In Auguft nature has given her higheft 
 tints to all her colours on the enamelled plain 
 and borders of the lakes. Thefe are alfo the 
 months favourable to botanic ftudies. Some 
 rare plants are then only to be found ; fuch 
 as delight in Alpine heights, or fuch as appear 
 in ever-fliaded dells or gloomy vales f . 
 
 The 
 
 * Thofe however who love to fee the variety of green and 
 tlhe tints which appear in the fpringmg and decaying foliage, 
 would be much pleafed with a fight of the lakes, either in 
 jjyiay or September. 
 
 f Can Flora's felf recount the jfhrubs and flow'rs, 
 That fcent the lhade, that clafp the rocky bow'rs ? 
 
 FronSi 
 
THE LAKES. 9 
 
 The author of The fix tnonths tour vifited the 
 lakes in this fine feafon, and faw them all, ex- 
 cept Coniflon and Efthwaite (both Lancafliirc 
 lakes) which are on the weftern fide of the 
 others, and lie parallel to Windermere-water. 
 
 Nothing but want of information could have 
 prevented that curious traveller from vifiting the 
 whole range of the lakes ; which had he done, 
 and defcribed their fcenery with that accuracy 
 and glow of colouring he has beftowed upon 
 the lakes of Kefwick, Windermere, &c. a copy 
 of his account would have been a fufEcient 
 ' Guide to all who make the fame tour. 
 
 The courfe of vifiting the lakes from Penrith, 
 is by Bampton to Haws-water, and from thence 
 to Ulls-water, and return to Penrith. Next, fet 
 out for Kefwick, feventeen miles good road. 
 Having feen the wonders of Kefwick and the 
 environs, depart for Amblefide, fixteen miles of 
 excellent mountain road, which afford much en- 
 tertainment. From Amblefide ride along the 
 
 fide 
 
 From the hard veins of faplefs marble rife 
 The fragrant race, and ftioot into the flcies. 
 Wond'rous the caufe ! can human fearch explore. 
 What vegetation lurks in ev'ry pore ? 
 What in the womb of diff'rent ftrata breeds ? 
 What fills the univerfe with genial feeds ? 
 Wond'rous the caufe ! and fruitlefs to enquire. 
 Our wifer part is humbly to admire. 
 
 KiUarney. 
 
lO 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 fide of Windermere-water, fix miles, to BoU'nefs, 
 and, having explored the lake, either return to 
 Amblefide, and from thence to Hawkfhead, five 
 miles, or crofs Windermere-water at the horfe 
 ferry, to Hawklhead, four miles. The road part 
 of the way, is along the beautiful banks of Ef- 
 thwaite-water. From Hawkfhead the road is 
 along the fkirts of the Furnefs Appenines, to the 
 head of Conifton-water, three miles, good road. 
 This lake ftretches from the feet of Conifton-fells, 
 to the fouth, fix miles. The road is on the eaft- 
 crn fide, along its banks, to Lowick -bridge; from 
 thence to Ulverfton by Penny-bridge, or by Lo- 
 \vick-hall, eight miles ; good carriage road every 
 where. From Ulverfton, by Dalton, to the ruins 
 of Furnefs Abbey, fix miles. Return to Ulver- 
 fton, from thence to Kendal, twenty-one miles, 
 or to Lancafter, over the fands, twenty miles. 
 
 This order of making the tour of the lakes is 
 the moft convenient for company coming from 
 the north, or over Stainmoor ; but for fuch com- 
 pany as come by Lancafter, it will be more con- 
 venient to begin the vifit with Conifton-water< 
 By this courfe, the lakes lie in an order more 
 agreeable to the eye, and grateful to the ima- 
 gination. The change of fcenes is from what 
 is pleafing, to what is furprifing ; from the de- 
 licate touches of Claude, verified on Conifton 
 lake, to the noble fcenes of Pouflin, exhibited 
 on Windermere-water J and, from thefe, to the 
 
 ftupendous 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 It 
 
 ftupendous, romantic ideas of Salvator Rofa, 
 realized on the lake of Derwent. 
 
 This Guide fliall therefore 'take up the com- 
 pany at Lancafter, and attend them in the tour 
 to all the lakes * ; pointing out (what only can 
 be defcribed) the permanent features of each 
 fcene; the vales, the dells, the groves, the hang- 
 ing woods, the fcattered cots, the deep moun- 
 tains, the impending chflF, the broken ridge, &c. 
 Their accidental beauties depend upon a variety 
 of circumftances ; light and lhade, the air, the 
 winds, the clouds, the fituation with refpefi: to 
 objedts, and the time of the day. For though 
 the ruling tints be permanent, yet the green and 
 gold of the meadow and vale, and the brown 
 and purple of the mountain, the filver grey of 
 the rock, and the azure hue of the cloud-topt 
 pike, are frequently varied in appearance, by 
 an interpiixture of refledion from wandering 
 clouds, or other bodies, or a fudden ftream of 
 funihine that harmonizes all the parts anew. 
 The pleafure therefore arifing from fuch fcenes 
 is in fome fort accidental. 
 
 To render the tour more agreeable, the com- 
 pany Ihould be provided with a telefcope, for 
 viewing the fronts and fummits of ^nacceffible 
 
 rocks, 
 
 * An abridged view of the tour may be feen in » table of 
 the roads at the end. 
 
12 A GUIDE TO 
 
 rocks, and the diftant country, from the tops of 
 the high mountains Skiddaw and Helvellyn*. 
 
 The landfcape mirror will alfo furnifh much 
 amufement, in this tour. Where the objeds 
 are great and near, it removes them to a diie 
 diftance, and fliews them in the foft colours of 
 nature, and in the mod regular perfpeftive the 
 eye can perceive, or fcience demonftrate. 
 
 The mirror is of the greateft ufe in funfhine ; 
 and the perfon ufing it ought always to turn 
 his back to the object that he views. It fliould 
 be fufpended by the upper part of the cafe, 
 holding it a little to the right or left (as the 
 pofition of the parts to be viewed require) and 
 the face fcreened from the fun. A glafs of four 
 inches, or four inches and a half diameter, is a 
 proper fize. 
 
 The 
 
 * As defcriptions of profpefts, greatly extended and va- 
 riegated, are often more tedious than entertaining, perhaps 
 the reader will not lament, that our author has not any where 
 attempted to delineate a view taken from either of thefe ca- 
 pital mountains, but rather wifli he had fhewn the fame judg- 
 ment of omiflion in fome other parts of his work. However 
 as an apology of the moft perfuafive kind for what may appear 
 either prolix, or too high-coloured, in fome of the following 
 defcriptions, let it be noted by the candid reader, at the 
 <«ut-fet, that the lakes were his favourite objedl, and on which 
 i.e thought enough could fcarce ever be faid, and, that the fe- 
 dcing efFedts of an ardent paflion, are, in any cafe, eafier to 
 i IiTcover in others, than to redtify in ourfelves. 
 
THE LAKES. 13 
 
 The mirror is a plano-convex glafs, and (hould 
 "be the fegment of a large circle ; otherwife dif- 
 tant and fmall objefts are not perceived in it; 
 but if the glafs be too flat, the perfpeftive view 
 of great and near obje£ls is lefs pleafing, as 
 they are reprefented too near. Thefe inconve-- 
 niencies may be provided againft by two glafles 
 of different convexity. The dark glafs anfwers 
 well in funfhine ; but on cloudy and gloomy 
 days the filver foil is better. 
 
 *^* Whoever ufes fpedacles upon other oc- 
 cafions, mud ufe them in viewing landfcapes 
 in thefe mirrors. 
 
 LANCASTER*. 
 
 TH E caflle here is the firft objed that 
 attracts the attention of the curious tra- 
 veller. The elevatiori of the fite, and magni- 
 ficence of the front, ftrike the imagination with 
 the idea of a place of much ftrength, beauty, 
 and importance ; and fuch it has been ever fmce 
 its foundation, on the arrival of the Romans 
 in thefe parts. An eminence of fwift defcent, 
 that commands the fords of a great tiding-river, 
 would not be negleded by fo able a general 
 as Agricola ; and accordingly he occupied the 
 crown of this eminence in the fummer of his 
 
 fecond 
 
 * (Longovicum, Notit. Imper.) 
 
^4 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 fecond campaign, aird of the chriftian asra 79, and 
 here he erefted a ftation to fecure his conquefi: 
 and the paffes of the riverj whtlfl: he proceeded 
 with his army acrofs the bay of Morecambe, 
 into Furnefs. The ftation was called Longo- 
 vicutn, and in procefs of time the inhabitants 
 were called Longovices, i. e. a people dwelling 
 upon the Lon or Lune. This ftation communi- 
 cated with Overborough, by exploratory mounts 
 (fome of them ftiil remaining) on the banks of 
 the Lune, which alfo anfwered the purpofes of 
 guarding the fords of the river, and over-awing 
 the natives. The mounts of Halton, Melling, 
 and at the eaft end of the bridge of Lune, near 
 Hornby, are ft ill entire. The ftation at Lan- 
 cafter was connefted with that at Watercrook, 
 near Kendal, by the intervention of the beacon 
 on Warton-crag, and the caftellum on the fum- 
 mit of a hill that rifes immediately over Water- 
 crook, at prefent called Caftle-fteads. 
 
 The town that Agricola found here, belonged 
 to the weftern Brigantes, and in their language 
 was called Caer Werid, i. e. the green town. 
 The name is ftill retained in that part of the 
 town called Green-aer, for Green-caer ; the 
 Britifti conftruftion being changed, and Werid 
 tranllated into Englifti. 
 
 The green mount on which the caftle ftands, 
 appears to be an artefa^tum of the Romans. In 
 
 digging 
 
THE LAKES. 15 
 
 digging into it a few years ago, a Roman filver 
 denarius was found at a great depth. The emi- 
 nence has been furrounded with a great moat. 
 The prefent ilrudure is generally fuppofed to 
 have been built by Edward III. but fome parts 
 of it feem to be of a higher date. There are 
 three fliles of architedure very evident in the 
 prefent caftle. i. Round towers, diftant from 
 each other about 26 paces, and joined by a wall 
 and open gallery. On the weftern fide there 
 remain two entire, and from their diftance, and 
 the vifible foundation of others, it appears they 
 have been in number feven, and that the form 
 of the caftle was then a polygon. One of thefe 
 toivers is called Adrian's Tower, probably from 
 fomething formerly ftanding there dedicated to 
 that emperor. They are two ftages high ; the 
 lights are narrow flits ; the hanging gallery is 
 fupported by a fmgle row of corbels, and the 
 lower ftages communicate by a clofe gallery m 
 the wall. Each ftage was vaulted with a plain 
 pyramidal vault of great height. Thofe in the 
 more fouthern towers are entire, and called 
 John of Gaunt's ovens ; but the caUing them 
 fo, is as ridiculous as groundlefs. 
 
 Taillebois, baron of Kendal, is the firft after 
 the conqueft who was honoured with the com- 
 mand of this caftle ; and William de Taillebois, 
 in the reign of Henry II. obtained leave to take 
 the furname of Lancafter. It is therefore pro- 
 bable' 
 
i6 A GUIDE TO 
 
 bable that the barons of Kendal either built or 
 repaired the ancient caftle, in which they re- 
 fided, until they erefted, upon the fummer fite 
 of the ftation of Concangium, their caftle at 
 Kendal ; for the remains of fome of the baftions 
 there agree in ftile with the towers here, 
 
 2. The fecond diftindt ftile of building in Lan- 
 cafter caftle, is a fquare tower of great height, 
 the lower part of which is of remote antiquity ; 
 the windows are fmall and round headed, or- 
 namented with plain fhort pillars on each fide. 
 The upper part of this magnificent tower is a 
 modern repair; the mafonry fliews it; and a 
 ftone in the battlement, on the northern fide, 
 infcribed E. R. 
 
 1585 R A, 
 
 proves that the repair was made in the time of 
 Queen Elizabeth. It is pretty evident that two 
 towers, with the rampart, have been removed 
 to give light and air to the lower windows on 
 the outfide of the great fquare tower ; and it is 
 joined by a wall of communication to Adrian's 
 Tower, that could not be there when the other 
 two round towers were ftanding. There are 
 two leffer fquare towers on the oppofite fide ©f 
 the yard, or court* 
 
 3. The third ftile of building is the front, or 
 gateway. This may be given to Edward III. 
 m to his fon John of Gaunt. It faces the eaft, 
 
 and 
 
THE LAKES. 17 
 
 and is a magnificent building in the Gothic ftile. 
 It opens with a noble and lofty pointed arch, de- 
 fended by over-hanging battlements, fupported 
 by a triple range of corbels, cut in form of boul- 
 tins. The intervals are pierced for the defcent 
 of milTiles, and on each fide rife two light watch- 
 towers. Immediately over the gate. Is an or- 
 namented niche, which probably once contained 
 the figu'-e of the founder. On one fide is ftill to 
 be feen, on a fliield, France quartered with Eng- 
 land ; on the other fide, the fame with a label 
 ermine of three points, the diftinftion of John of 
 Gaunt, duke of Lancafter, fourth fon of Edward 
 III. the firfl Englilh monarch that quartered 
 France and England on a (hield. — It was Henry 
 V. that reduced the lilies of France to three*. 
 
 On the north fide of the hill, below the 
 church-yard, are fome remains of the wall that 
 encompaffed the ftation. It retains part of the 
 ancient name of the place-, being called Wery- 
 wall. Thofe who fuppofe it to be that part of 
 the priory-inclofure-wall, which was fituated on 
 the north fide of the church yard, may be fa- 
 tisfied it is not fo, by viewing the part of the 
 inclofure-wall yet (landing, which is a thin moul- 
 dering fabric j whereas the Wery-wall is a ce- 
 mented mafs, that nothing but great violence 
 
 C can 
 
 * The improvements now making in the caftle, under 
 the direaion of Mr. Harrifon, will add greatly to the noble 
 appearance of that ancient building. 
 
i8 , A GUIDE TO 
 
 can injure. Another fragment of it (lands at the 
 ^ile on the foot-path, under the weft end of the 
 church-yard*. It is frequently met with in the 
 church-yard, and its diredion is to the "weftern 
 fide of the caftle. The father of the late Wil- 
 liam Bradfliaw, Efq. of Halton, remembered 
 the Wery-wall projefting over Bridge-lane, and 
 pointing direftly to the river. This could never 
 be the diredion of the priory-wall. To fay no- 
 thing of the name which tradition has preferved, 
 had Mr. Pennant viewed both, he would not 
 have doubted a moment to join Camden againft 
 Leland. At Bridge-lane this wall makes an an- 
 gle, and runs along the brow of the hill, behind 
 the houfeSj in a Une to Church-ftreet, which it 
 crolTes about Covell-crofs. This is attefted by 
 the owners of the gardens, who have met with 
 it in that diredion, and always found blue-clay 
 under the foundation flones. 
 
 Though the ftation was one of the firft which 
 the Romans had in thefc parts, and, from its 
 importance, the laft they abandoned, yet, but 
 few Roman-Britilh remains have been difco- 
 vered at.it. 
 
 The Caledonians, the unconquered enemies, 
 and greateft plague of the Romans in Britain, 
 were particularly galled and offended with the 
 garrifon at Lancafler, it being always the firft to 
 oopofe them, as often as they invaded the em- 
 pire, 
 
 * This has been lately deftroyed. 
 
THE LAKES. 19 
 
 pire, by croffing the Solway-frith. For, having 
 taken the advantage of the fpring-tides, and the 
 darknefs of the nights, at the change of the 
 moon, they efcaped the garrifon at Virofidium, 
 Ellenborough, Arbeia, and More%; and fkulk- 
 ing along the Cumberland coaft, they croffed the 
 Morecambe-bay, and were firfl difcovered on 
 the banks of the Lune. Here they were oppofed 
 by the townfmen, who kept the garrifon ; and if 
 they did not return by the way they came, the 
 alarm brought upon them the garrifons of O- 
 verborough, Watercrook, and Amblefide, who 
 furrounded and cut them off. Hence arofe a 
 particular hatred to the Lancaftrians, which time 
 and repeated injuries fomented into rage. In 
 the end, the barbarous clans, following clofe 
 upon the heels of the flying Romans, in a par- 
 ticular manner fatiated their defire of revenge 
 upon the helplefs Lancaftrians, by facking and 
 deftroying their town and fortifications, in order 
 that they might at no future time oppofe their 
 invafions. The Saxons arriving foon after raifed 
 on thefe ruins, the town that remains to this day. 
 Hence it may be inferred, that the prefent town 
 of Lancafter ftands on a magazine of Iloman- 
 Britifli antiquities ; and this is often verified by 
 digging under ancient houfes, where Roman 
 remains are frequently found, and where it ap- 
 pears that the earth has been removed — Befide 
 what Dr. Leigh mentions, there are many recent 
 inftances that prove the conjecture. 
 
 C 2 In 
 
20 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 In the year 1772, in digging a cellar, where 
 an old houfe had ftood, in a ftrect or lane, called 
 Pudding-lane, (almoft in the centre of the town) 
 there was found, reverfed in a bed of fine fand, 
 above five feet underground, a fquare infcribed 
 ftone, of four feet by two and a half dimenfions. 
 A foot and two inches were broken off the lower 
 corner on the right hand fide, fo as to render 
 the infcription obfcure, but the remaining letters 
 were very evident, elegantly formed, fquare, and 
 about three inches high. The infcription had 
 confided of eight or nine lines, of which fix are 
 entire, and of eafy explanation ; the lofs in the 
 feventh is readily fupphed ; but the eighth mud 
 be made out by the common llile of fuch votive 
 ftones. The elegance of the charaders pro- 
 nounces them to be the work of the bed times ; 
 but the two fmall letters in the third and fifth 
 lines, reduce it to the age of the Emperor Gor- 
 dian ; and if the three fmall letters have been 
 occafioned by the omiflion of the fculptor, then 
 it will be of higher antiquity. It is known by 
 infcriptions found at Olenacum (old Carlifle) 
 that the Augudan wing mentioned on this ta- 
 blet, was dationed there in the time of Gordian ; 
 and now from this infcription, it feems alfo to 
 have been at Lancader. This memorable done 
 was in the rare colleftion of Sir Aditon Lever, 
 Knt, in Leiceder-houfe, London* 
 
 A few 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 21 
 
 A few years ago, in finking a cellar in an old 
 hoafe in Cliurch'ftreet, great quantities of frag- 
 ments of Roman e^trthen-vvare were thrown out, 
 urns, paterie, &:c. many of them finely glazed, 
 and elegantly marked with emblematic figures, 
 Alfo fome copper coins were found, and an en- 
 tire lamp, with a turned up perforated handle 
 to hang it by, the nozle of which was black,- 
 from ufe. At the depth of two yards were 
 likewife difcovered a great number of human 
 bones, with burnt afhes, a wall of great thick- 
 nefs, and a well filled with rubbifh of the fame 
 kind, probably leading to a vault where other 
 human reniains were depofited ; but the curious 
 muft for ever regret that no further fearch was 
 made into its ufe and contents. 
 
 What throws new light upon the flation here, 
 is the late difcovery of a Roman pottery, by the 
 Honourable Edward Clifford, in his eftate at 
 Quarmoor, near Lanca^fer. That thefe works 
 have been very confiderable, may be fuppofcd 
 from the fpace difcoloured with broken ware, 
 the holes from whence the clay has been taken, 
 and the great variety of bricks, tiles, and veifels 
 that are found about them. But the greatell 
 difcovery is gathered from a tile with turned up 
 edges, impreffed on each end with the words 
 Ale Sebiifta, which points out a wing of cavalry 
 not heard of before. The fame infcription is 
 found on bricks, the label fmaller, and the letters 
 C 3 Ala 
 
12 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 j4la Sebufia. The fliape of the fccond letter rn 
 the firft word, is like that in the infcription on 
 the rock near Bramptoh, in Cumberland, fup- 
 pofed to have been cut in the time of the 
 Emperor Severus, A. D. 207, and is the fifth L 
 in Horlley's Alphabet. On the brick the letters 
 are fquare, from which it may be inferred, that 
 this wing was long Rationed at Lancafter. 
 
 This town, ever fmce the conqueft, has been 
 renowned for loyalty, and attachment to efta- 
 bliihed government ; for which King John ho- 
 noured it with as ample a charter as he had 
 conferred on the burgefles of Briftol and North- 
 ampton. Charles II. confirmed it, with additional 
 privileges. But Lancafter derived its greateft 
 luitre and importance, from the title it gave to 
 Edmund, fecond fon of Henry III. and to his if- 
 fue. Dukes of Lancafter^ and Kings of England, 
 of the Lancaftrian line. In the end, however, 
 it fuffered much by fupporting their title to the 
 crown, in the conteft with the houfe of York. 
 And fo little had it retrieved itfelf when Camden 
 vifited it, in 1609, that he fpeaks of it, as not 
 populous, and that the inhabitants were all huf- 
 bandmen. Since that time it is, however, much 
 enlarged*. The new houfes are peculiarly neat 
 
 and 
 
 * Tlie town fti'll continues to encreafe. A fquare and 
 feveral additional ftreets are now building. It has alfo 
 feeen lately ornamented with a pew town-hall, or exchange, 
 
 (defigned^ 
 
tHE LAKES. 23 
 
 and haTidfome, the flreets are well paved, and 
 thronged with inhabitants, bufied in a profpe- 
 rous trade to the Weft-Indies, and other places. 
 Along a fine quay, noble ware-houfes are built. 
 And when it fliall pleafe thofe concerned, to 
 deepen the Iboals in the river, Ihips of great 
 burthen may lie before them ; for at prefent we 
 only fee, in that part of the riverj fuch as do 
 not exceed 250 tons. 
 
 The air of Lancafter is falubrious, the envi- 
 rons pieafant, the inhabitants wealthy, courteous, 
 hofpitable, and polite. The church is a hand- 
 fome Gothic ftrufture; but the infide view of 
 the beautiful eaft window is obftrucled by a 
 tall fkreen behind the altar, and the reft of the 
 church is further hurt by a multiplicity of pews. 
 The only remains it has of ancient furniture are 
 a few turn-up feats, carved in the ftile of the 
 times when it belonged to the priory of St. 
 Martin of Sayes, in France. Some of the carv- 
 ings are fine, but the figures are either grofs or 
 grotefque. This building ftands on the crown 
 of an eminence, below the caftle, from which it 
 C 4 is 
 
 (defig-ned by Major Jarrat) efteeraed a handfome building, 
 with a noble portico. An elegant fteeple has been alfo 
 lately built to the chapel (after a defign of Mr. Hanlibn) 
 by a donation of the late Mr. T. Bowes, which, with the 
 turret on the exchange, add much to the pleafing, or rather 
 ftriking appearance this town has at a dittance, on account 
 of the caftle, church, and the confpicuous fituation of fe- 
 veral good ftonc houfe»« 
 
24 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 is only feparated by the moat. The views from 
 the church-yard are extenfive and pleafant, par- 
 ticularly the grand and much admired profpefls 
 of the northern mountains. The chapel is a 
 neat and convenient place of worfliip. There 
 are alfo in this town, prefbyterian, quaker, and 
 methodift nieeting-houfes, and a Romilh chapel. 
 When the prefent incommodious bridge was 
 lately repaired^ fome brafs pieces of money were 
 met with under a foundation ftone, from which 
 it was conjedured to be of Danifh origin. A 
 more ancient bridge Hood higher up the river, 
 at Skerton town-end; an eligible fuuation for 
 a new one, which would make a fine and conve- 
 nient entrance into Lancafter, from the north, 
 and which at prefent on many accounts it much 
 wants *. 
 
 Before you leave Lancafter, take a ride to the 
 third mile-ftone, on the road to Hornby, and 
 there have Mr. Gray's noble view of the vale of 
 Lonfdale, which he, or his editor, defcribes in 
 
 thefe 
 
 * A new bridge is now finiflied on the fite above pointed 
 out. It is built after a dcfign of Mr. Hari-ifon, and confifts 
 of five equal elliptical arches, and is 549 feet long. The 
 expence of the ereftion, which was paid by the county, 
 amounted to 14C00/. and it is faid to be one of the hand- 
 fomeft bridges of its fize in Europe, and not only does ho- 
 hour to the tafte of the aichiteft, but to the public fpirit 
 of thofe who promoted the work on fo liberal a plan.^ 
 
THE LAKES. 25 
 
 thefe words, in the note, page 373, of his life. 
 " This fcene opens juft three miles from Lan- 
 caller, on what is called the Queen's road. To 
 fee the view in perfedion, you mufl go into a 
 field on the left*. Here Inglcborough, behind 
 a variety of leffer mountains, makes the back-p 
 ground of the profpeft; on each hand of the 
 middle dillance, rife two Hoping hills, the left 
 cloathed with thick wood, the right with va- 
 riegated rock and herbage. Between them, in 
 the richeft of valleys, the Lune ferpentizes for 
 many a mile, and comes forth ample and clear 
 through a well wooded and richly paftured fore- 
 ground. Every feature, which conftitutes a 
 pfrrfeQ landfcape of the extenfive fort, is here 
 not only boldly marked, but alfo in its beft 
 pofition." 
 
 From Lancafter to Heft-bank, three miles ; 
 fet out with the Ulverfton carriers at the ftated 
 hour, or take a guide for the fands that fucceed, 
 called Lancafter Sands and which are 9 mile* 
 
 over. 
 
 * As feveral miftakes have been made refpedting this fta- 
 tion, it is neceffary to point it out more preclfely. About 
 a quarter of a mile beyond the third mile-ftone, where the 
 road makes a turn to the right, there is a gate on the left, 
 which leads into a field, where the ftation meant is fliewn by 
 a pole eretled for that purpofe, by Mr. Jones, the proprietor 
 of the field, who gives travellers liberty to go into it with 
 their hoifes, or carriages. 
 
 t (Morecombe, Ptol.) 
 
A GUIDE to 
 
 over*. On a fine day there is not a more 
 pleafant fea-fide ride in the kingdom. On the 
 right, a bold fhore, deeply indented in fome 
 places, and opening into bays in others ; val- 
 leys that ftretch far into the country, bounded 
 on each fide by . hanging grounds, cut into in- 
 clofiires, interfperfed with groves and woods, 
 adorned with fequeftered cots, farms, villages, 
 churches, and caftles ; mountains behind moun- 
 tains, and others again juft feen over them, clofe 
 
 the 
 
 * Along with the proper guides, crofllng of the fands in 
 fummer is thought a journey of little more danger than any- 
 other. But thofe who wifh to evade them may eaiily go, 
 in one day, round to Ulverfton, by the head of the selluary. 
 The roads are in general veiy good, the ride about 37 mik& 
 and not wanting in the natural variety peculiar to the count- 
 try. [The route will be thus. — From Lancafter to Bolton 
 4 miles. (From the Thwaites, a little beyond the town, 
 have a fine view of Lancafter fands, and the northern mount- 
 tains.) From thence to Burton 7 miles. (There obfervc 
 Major Pearion's neat houfe of freeftone.) The old venerable 
 building on the right hand of the road, about 2 miles fliort 
 of Burton, is Borwick-hall, formerly the refidence of Sir Ro- 
 bert Bindlofs, but now only a farm houfe. From thence to 
 Mil^throp 4 miles. (There fee Dallam Tower, the feat of 
 Daniel Wilfon Efq. in which there are feveral elegancies, and 
 more capabilities. Alfo fee a bold water-fall of the river at 
 Beetham-mill.) From Millthrop to Levens (an ancient feat 
 of the late Earl of Suffolk, where a curious fpecimen of the 
 old ftile of gardening may be feen, as laid out by the gar- 
 dener of King James II) 2 miles. From thence to the 
 nearer end of theLong-caufeway, at Beathwaite-green 1 mile. 
 Thence to the Black-bull in Witherflack 3 miles (which takes 
 
 you 
 
THE LAKES. 27 
 
 the fore fcene. Claude has not introduced So- 
 rade, on the Tyber, in a more happy point of 
 view, than Ingleborough appears in, during the 
 courfe of this ride. At entering on the fands, 
 to the left, Heyfliam-point rifes abruptly, and the 
 village hangs on its fide in a beautiful manner. 
 Over a vaft extent of fands, Peel-caftle, the an- 
 cient bulwark of the bay, rears its venerable 
 head above the tide. In front, appears a fine 
 fweep of country Doping to the fouth. To the 
 right, Warton-crag prefents itfelf in a bold ftile. 
 On its arched fummit are the veftiges of a 
 fquare encampment, and the ruins of a beacon. 
 Grounds bearing from the eye for many a mile, 
 
 variegated 
 
 you by the foot of Whitbarrowrfcar, a remarkable precipice 
 of limeftone rock, formed in feveral places like a fortrefs.) 
 Thence to Newton (over the hill Tawtup) 4 miles. Thence 
 to Newby-bridge 3 miles, which is fltuated at the lower end 
 of Windermere-water. From thence to Bouth, on the com- 
 mon turnpike, 3 miles. (But it might be worth while to go 
 a little out of the way, through a valley on the left hand, by 
 Backbarrow and Low-wood furnaces and iron-works, which 
 are very romantically fituated. ) From Bouth to Penny- 
 bridge 2 miles, which there brings you into the traft of the 
 tour by Ulverfton, now only 4 miles diftant. 
 
 If, on account of getting poft-chaifes, &c. it be thought 
 more convenient to go by Kendal to Ulverfton, the journey 
 will be about 7 miles more, all good turnpike road. From 
 Burton (where the two roads part) to Kendal is ii miles, 
 and from Kendal to the abovenamed Newby-bridge (where 
 they meet again) is about 13 miles. — This latter ftage, 
 though mountainous and uneven, neverthelef* in many other 
 refpeds affords an agreeable ride. J 
 
28 
 
 A GUIDE to 
 
 variegated in every pleafing form, by woods and 
 rocks, are terminated by cloud-topt IngleboroiT^h. 
 A little further, on the fame hand, another vale 
 opens to the fands, and (hews a broken ridee of 
 rocks, and beyond them, groups of mounta:ns 
 towering to the fky. Cafile-fteads, a pyramidal 
 hill, that fifes above the (lation at Kendal, is 
 now in fight. At the bottom of the bay, (lands 
 Arnfide-tower, once a manfion of the Stanleys, 
 The Cartmel coaft, now, as you advance, be- 
 comes more pleafing. Betwixt that and Sil- 
 verdale-nab (a mountain of naked grey rock) 
 is a great break in the coaft, and through the 
 opening, the river Kent rolls its waters to join 
 the tide. In the mouth of the jeftuary are two 
 beautiful conical ifles, cloathed with wood and 
 fweet verdure. As you advance towards them, 
 they feem to change their pofition, and . hence 
 often vary their appearance. At the fame time 
 a grand view opens of the Weftraorland moun- 
 tains tumbled about in a moft furprifmg manner. 
 At the head of the seftuary, under a beautiful 
 green hill, Heverfliam village and church appear 
 in fine perfpedive. To the north, Whitbarrow- 
 fcar, a huge arched and bended cliff, of an 
 immenfe height, (hews its ftorm-beaten front*. 
 
 The 
 
 *A'"litde to the left of Whitbarrow, is Caftle-head, where 
 an elegant houfe has lately been erefted by John Wilkinfon, 
 Efq. The fite is fomething curious, and the owner has 
 made great improvements in the grounds about it. — The 
 houfe is feen to advantage as you crofs the fands, and greatly 
 enlivens the part of the coaft where it is fituated. 
 
THE LAKES. 29 
 
 The intermediate fpace is a mixture of rocks? 
 and woods, and cultivated patches, that form a 
 romantic view*. At the fide of the Eauf, or 
 liver of the fands, a guide on horfeback, called 
 
 the 
 
 * The above dercriptfon of this curious and pleafing ride 
 IS, as far as it goes, juft, but not charafleriftic. What moft 
 attradts the notice of the traveller is not the objedls of the 
 furroiinding country (though they are fine) but the fands 
 themfehes. For when he has got a few miles from the ftiore 
 the nature of the, plain on which he treads, cannot but fug- 
 geft a feries of ideas of a more fublime kind than thofe of 
 rural elegance, and which will therefore gain a fupcrior at- 
 tention. The plain is then feemingly immenfe in extent, 
 continued on in a dead level, and uniform in appearance. 
 As he purfnes his often-traSleJs way, he will recolledl:, that 
 probably but a few hours before, the whole expanfe was 
 covertd with fome fathoms of water, and that in a few more 
 it will as certainly be covered again. At the fame time he 
 may alfo perceive, on his left hand, the retreated ocean ready 
 to obey the myfterious laws of its irrefiftable movement, 
 without any vifible barrier to ftay it a moment where it is. 
 Thefe laft confiderations, though they may not be fufficient 
 to akrm, muft yet be able to roufe the mind to a ftate of 
 more than ordinary attention ; which co-operating with the 
 other fingular ideas of the profpeft, muft affeft it in a very 
 fublime and unufual manner. Tiiis the bare appearance of 
 the fands will do. But when the traveller reaches the fide 
 of the Eau, thefe affedlons will be greatly increafed. He 
 there drops down a gentle defcent to the edge of a broad 
 and feemingly irapalTable river, where the only remains he 
 can perceive of the furrounding lands are the tops of diftant 
 mountains, and where a folitary being on horfeback (like 
 fome ancient genius of the deep) is defcribed hovering on its 
 
 brink. 
 
3^ A G U I D E T O 
 
 the Carter^ is in wailing to condua: paffengers 
 over the ford. The priory of Cartmel was 
 charged with this important office and had fy- 
 
 nodals 
 
 brink, or encountering its fiream with gtnsle Heps, in order 
 to condud him through it When fairly entered into the 
 water, if a ftranger to this fcene, and he do not feel himfelf 
 touched with fome of the moft pleafing emotions, I fhoold 
 think him deftitute of common fenfibih'ty. For, in the mid ft 
 of apparently great danger, he will foon find that there is 
 really none at all; and the complacency which mui natu- 
 rally refult from this conilderation, will be heightened to aa 
 unufual degree, by obfcrving, during his palFage, the anxious 
 and faithful inftinft of his beaft, and the friendly behaviour 
 and afpeft of his guide. All the fervours of grateful thank- 
 fulnefs will then be raiftd, and if with the ufual perqoilite to 
 his venerable conduftor, he can forget to convey his bleffing, 
 who would not conclude him to want one efTential requifite 
 for properly enjoying the tour of the lakes? 
 
 Having crofled the river, the ftranger traveller (whom 
 we will fuppofe at Imgth freed from any petty anxiety) 
 will now have more inclination to furvey the obieds around 
 him. The feveral particulars peculiar to an arm of the 
 fea (as fjhermen, JhipSy fea-fowU fhellsy weeds, &c.) will 
 attraft his notice, and new-model his refleftions. But if 
 the fun fhine forcibly, he will perhaps be moft entertained 
 with obferving the little gay ifles and promontories of land, 
 that feem to hover in the air, or fwim on a luminous va- 
 pour, that rifes from the fand, and flu£luates beautifully 
 on its furface. 
 
 In fliort, on a line fummer day, a ride acrofs this aeftuary 
 (and that of Leven mentioned a little further on) to a 
 
 fpeculative 
 
THE LAKES. 31 
 
 nodals and peter-pence allowed towards its main- 
 tenance. Since the diflblution of the priory, it 
 is held by patent of the dutchy of Lancaftcr, 
 and the falary, twenty pounds per annum, is 
 paid by the receiver-general. 
 
 Cartmel is a fmall diftrift belonging to Lanca- 
 fliire, but united to Weftmorland a little below 
 Bownefs, on Winder mere-water, from whence it 
 extends itfelf betwixt the rivers Leven and Kent, 
 and fo interfedls the great bay of Morecambe. 
 It is three miles acrofs from Cark-lane, where 
 you quit the fands, to Sand-gate. Pafs through 
 
 Flookburgh, 
 
 fpeculative ftratiger (or to any one who is habituated to 
 confider the charms of nature abflradedly) will afford a va- 
 riety of moil entertaining ideas. Indeed the objefts here 
 prefented to the eye, are feveral of them fo like in kind, to 
 what will frequently occur in the tour of the lakes; fome of 
 them are fo much more magnificent from extent, and others 
 fo truly peculiar, that it feems rather furprifing that this 
 journey fhould not often be confidered by travellers from 
 the fouth, as one of the firft curiofities of the tour, in ieauiy 
 as well as in occurrence. And if the reader of this note be 
 of a philofopbic turn, this queftion may perhaps here offer 
 itfelf to him, and to which it is apprehended he may found 
 a fatisfaftory anfwer on very evident principles; viz. "Why 
 a view fo circumftanced as this, and, when taken from the 
 (hore at full iea,fo very Hie a lake of greater apparrent extent 
 than any in the kingdom, fliould never be brought into 
 comparifon with the lakes to be vifited afterwards, and ge- 
 nerally fail to flrike the mind with images of any peculiar 
 beauty or grandeur?" 
 
 f Pronounced commonly Eea. 
 
32 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 Flookburgh*, once a market town, by charter 
 granted to the prior of Cartmes, lord paxamoont, 
 horn King Edward I. ITie only thing \i!crthy 
 of notice in Cartmel, is the church, a handfotne 
 Gothic edifice. The large eafl window j is fint ly 
 ribbed with pointed arches, iight and elegant ; 
 but the painted glafs is almoft all deitroyed. 
 The prefervation of this edifice refleSs Isonour 
 on the memory of George Prefion. tlq, of Hol- 
 ker, who, at his own expcnce, new roofed the 
 whole, and decorated the infide with a ftucco 
 ceiling. The choir and chancel be alfo repaired, 
 fuiting the new parts to the old remains of the 
 canons feats, and thereby giving them their an- 
 cient uniform appearance. Perfons uninformed 
 of this, always take it to be the fame it was before 
 the diflblution. The ftile of the buildmg, like 
 moft of its contemporaries, is irregular. The 
 form is a crofs, in length 157 feet; the tranfept 
 1 10 feet ; the height of the walls 57 feet The 
 tower on the center is of a Angular conftruOion, 
 being a fquare within a fquare, the higher fet at 
 
 crofs-angles 
 
 * Near this place is a noted fpaw, called the Holy-well, 
 found to be of great fervice in moft cutaneous diforders, and 
 much reforted to in the fummer feafon from diftant parts. 
 It is an eafy cathartic, reftores loft appetite, and fully an- 
 fwers the ancient poetic defcription of a fountain. 
 
 ** Infirmo capitijiuit utilisj uti/is aho," 
 
 f The dimenfions are, 24 feet wide and 48 high. The 
 great eail window of York minfter meafures 32 by 75 feet. 
 
THE LAKES. 33 
 
 erors^^angles with the lower. This gives it an 
 odd appearance on all fides, but may have fomc 
 reference to the octagonal pillars in the church, 
 and both to the memory of fomething now 
 forgotten. According to fome accounts, it was 
 built and endowed with the manor of Cartmel, 
 by William Marifchal the elder. Earl of Pem- 
 brokcj in 1188, but as in the foundation deed 
 mention is made of Henry II. — Richard,— and 
 Henry the younger, his lord the King, it appears 
 rather to have been founded in the beginning of 
 that reign j for William the elder. Earl of Pem- 
 broke, died in the fourth or fifth year of the 
 reign of Henry III. He gave it, never to be 
 erefted into an abbey, to the canons regular of 
 St. Auftin, referving to himfelf and his heirs, the 
 right of granting to them the conge d'elire of a 
 prior, who fhould be independent of all others. 
 Under the north wall, a little below the altar, is 
 the tomb-ftone of William de Walton, prior of 
 Cartmel. He is mentioned in the confirmation 
 diploma of Edward II. and muft have been 
 one of the firft priors. Oppofite to this, is a 
 magnificent tomb of a Harrington and his lady, 
 which Mr. Pennant thinks may be of Sir John 
 Harrington, who in 1305, was fummoned by 
 Edward I. " with numbers of other gallant gen- 
 tlemen, to meet him at Carlifle, and attend him 
 On his expedition into Scotland.*' But it a- 
 grees better with a John de Harrington, called 
 John of Cartmel, or his fon, of Wrafhholme- 
 
 ^ tOWQT, 
 
34 A GUIDE TO 
 
 tower, in Cartmel, as Sir Daniel Fleming'^s ac- 
 count of that family has it, M. S. L. A. i. 132. 
 The hea-d of the Harrington family. Sir John 
 Harrington, in the reign of Edward I. was of 
 Aldingham, and Hved at Gleafton-eaftle, in Fur- 
 nefs, and died in an advanced age, in 1347^ 
 and is more probably the Sir John Harrington 
 mentioned in Dugdale's baronage, and faid, as- 
 above, to be fummoned by Edward I. There 
 is not one vcftige of the monaftery remain- 
 ing. There is indeed an ancient gate-houfe, 
 but whether this was connected with the cloi- 
 fters or not, tradition is filent, and its diftance 
 from the church is unfavourable to the con- 
 jefture. 
 
 Proceed through rocky fields and groves to- 
 Holker, one mile, the feat of the right honour- 
 able Lord George Cavendifh. The carriage road 
 is by Cark-hall. At the top of the hill there 
 opens a fine view of Furnefs. Holker-hall lie& 
 at your feet, embofomed in wood. On the left, 
 Ulverfton bay opens into the great bay, and is 
 three miles over. The coaft is deeply indented^ 
 and the peninfulas are beautifully fringed with 
 wood. On the right, a bold bending rock pre- 
 fents a noble arched forehead j and a fine flope 
 of inclofed grounds, mixed with wood, leads the 
 eye to Ulverfton, the port and mart of Furnefs. 
 Conifliead fhews its pyramidal head, compleatly 
 cloathed in wood. At its feet is the Priory^ 
 
 Shielded 
 
t HE LAKES. 35 
 
 fliielded by a wing of hanging wood, that climbs 
 up the fide of a fteep hill. Bardfea, under its 
 rocks and hanging woods, ftands in a delightful 
 point of view. In front, a fweet fall of inclo- 
 fures, marked with clumps of trees and hedge- 
 rows, gives it a moft pidurefque effcd. Alfo a 
 white houfe on the fea bank, under the cover 
 of a deep wood, has a moll inchanting appear- 
 ance. The coall from thence is of fingular 
 beauty, confifting of hanging woods, inclofed 
 lands, and pafture grounds, varied through a 
 great extent of profpeft, in every pleafmg form. 
 Defcend to Holker, which adds to the furround* 
 ing fcenes what is peculiar to itfelf, joined to the 
 improvements of the noble owner, finifhed in a 
 mafterly ftile*. The traveller will here obferve 
 huibandry in a more flourifhing fituation than in 
 the country he is foon to vifit. The hufband- 
 men in this part, as elfewhere, are flow in imi- 
 tating new practices ; but the continued fuccefs 
 which attends his lordftiip's improvements, has 
 not failed to effect a reformation amongft the 
 Cartmel farmers. 
 
 D 2 In 
 
 * The connoifleur in painting may here have the pleafuie ' 
 of feeing a good colkaion of piftures ; amongft which are, 
 by Claude Lorrain, a very capital la ndfcape, exhibiting a view 
 of the Tiber, with the temple of Apollo, the nine miifes, Sec. 
 another reprefenting the departure out of Egypt, and two 
 more fmall views. Alfo a large landfcape by Rubens ; two 
 fine church pieces by B. Neefs (the figures by Elfhamer;) 
 and feveral others by Woverman, Hobina, Teniers, Svvanevelt, 
 Zuccarelli, RyfdaJ, aud other eminent raaftcrs. 
 
3.6 A GUIDE TO 
 
 In croffing Leven-fands, to Ulvcrftori, yow 
 have, on the right, a grand view of Alpine fce- 
 nery. A rocky hill patched with wood and heathy 
 rifing immediately from the coaft, directs the eye 
 to an immenfe chain of lofty mountains, appa- 
 rently increafed in magnitude and height, fmce 
 they were feen from Hefl-bank. On a fine mor- 
 ning, this is a pleafant ride, when the mountains, 
 are ftrongly illuminated by the fun-beams, and 
 patched with ftadows of intervening clouds, that 
 fail along their fides ; or w^hen they drag their 
 watery fkil'ts over the fummits, and, admitting 
 the dreaming beams, adorn their rocky heads 
 with filver, and variegate their olive-coloured 
 fides with ftripes of gold and green. This fairy 
 fcene foon (hifting, all is concealed in a mantle of 
 azare milt. At the Eau, or ford of the river Le- 
 ven^ another carter conducts you over. On the 
 diflblution of the priory of Conifhead, King Henry 
 Vlll. charged himfelf and his fucceflbrs with the 
 payment of the falary, fifteen marks per annum, 
 which the guide received from the priory. 
 
 Ulverfton, the London of Furnefs, is a neat 
 town, at the foot of a fwift defcent of hills to the 
 fouth-eaft. The jflreets are regular, and excel- 
 lently well paved. The weekly market for Low 
 Furnefs has been long eftabliftied here, to the 
 prejudice of Dalton, the ancient capital of Fur- 
 nefs. The articles of export are, iron-ore in 
 great quantities, pig and bar iron, oats, barley^ 
 
 beansy 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 37 
 
 beans, potatoes, bark, and limeftone. The prin- 
 cipal inns are kept by the guides, who regularly 
 pafs to and from Lancafler, on Sunday, Tuefday, 
 and Friday, in every week. Their entertain- 
 ment is good, the attendants civil, and the 
 charge reafonable. 
 
 Make an excurfion to the weft, three miles, 
 and vifit the greateft iron-mines in England. At 
 Whicrigs the works are carried on with much 
 fpiiit, by driving of levels into the bofom of the 
 mountain. . The ore is found in a limeftone 
 ftratum, mixed with a variety of fpars of a dirty 
 colour. There is much quartz in fome of the 
 works, that admits of a high polifti. At prefent 
 the works in Stone-clofe and Adgarly are the 
 moft flouriftiing that have been known in Fur- 
 nefs. This mineral is not hurtful to any animal 
 or vegetable. The verdure is remarkably fine 
 about the workings, and no one ever fuffered 
 by drinking the water in the mines, though dif- 
 coloured and much impregnated with the ore. 
 
 Proceed by Dalton to the magnificent ruins 
 of Furnefs Abbey, and there 
 
 *' See the wild wafte of all devouring years. 
 How Rome her own fad fepulchre appears. 
 " With nodding arches, broken temples fpread. 
 The very tombs now vanifli like the dead. " 
 
 This abbey was founded by Stephen Earl of 
 Mortaign and Boulogne, afterwards King of 
 D 3 England, 
 
A GUIDE TO 
 
 England, A. D. 1127, and was endowed with 
 the lordftiip of Furnefs, and many royal privileges. 
 It was peopled from the monaftery of Savigny, in 
 Normandy, and dedicated to St. Mary. In an- 
 qent writings it is ftiled St. Mayre*s of Furnefs. 
 The monks were of the order of Savigny, and 
 their drefs was grey cloth ; but on receiving St. 
 Bernard's form, they changed from grey to 
 white, and became Ciftercians ; and fuch they 
 remained till the diflblution of the monafteries. 
 
 The fituation of this abbey, fo favourable to 
 a contemplative life, juftifies the choice of the 
 firft fettlers. Such a fequeftered fite, in the 
 bottom of a deep dell, through which a hafty 
 brook rolls its murmuring ftream, and along 
 which the roaring weft wind would often blow, 
 joined with the deep-toned mattin fong, muft 
 have been very favourable to the folemn me- 
 lancholy of a monaftic life. 
 
 To prevent furprife, and call in affiftance, a 
 beacon was placed on the crown of an eminence, 
 that rifes immediately from the abbey, and is 
 feen over all Low-Furnefs. The door leading 
 to the beacon is ftill remaining in the inclofure 
 wall, on the eaftern fide. The magnitude of 
 the abbey may be known from the dimenfions 
 of the ruins J and enough is ftanding to ftiew 
 the ftile of the architefture. The round and 
 pointed arches occur in the doors and windows. 
 The fine cluftered Gothic, and the heavy plain 
 
THE LAKES. 39 
 
 Saxon pillars ftand contrafted. The walls fhew 
 excellent mafonry, are in many places counter- 
 arched, and the ruins difcover a ftrong cement. 
 The eaft window has been noble, and fome of 
 the painted glafs that once adorned it, is pre- 
 ferved in a window in Windermere church. On 
 the outfide of the window, under an arched 
 feftoon, is the head of the founder, and, op- 
 pofite to it, that of Maud, his Queen ; both 
 •crowned, and well executed. In the fouth wall, 
 and eaft end of the church, are four feats, a- 
 dorned with Gothic ornaments. In thefe the 
 officiating prieft, with his attendants, fat at in- 
 tervals, during the folemn fervice of high mafs. 
 In the middle fpace, where the firft barons of 
 Kendal are interred, lies a procumbent figure of 
 a man in armour, crofs legged. The chapter- 
 houfe has been a noble room of fixty feet by 
 forty -five. The vaulted roof, formed of twelve 
 ribbed arches, was fupported by fix pillars in 
 two rows, at thirteen feet diftance from each 
 other. Now, fuppofing each of the pillars to be 
 two feet in diameter, the room would be divided 
 into three alleys, or paflages, each thirteen feet 
 ■wide. On entrance, the middle one only could 
 be feen, lighted by a pair of tall pointed windows 
 at the upper end of the room ; the company in 
 the fide paflage would be concealed by the pil- 
 lars, and the vaulted roof, that groined fromi 
 thofe pillars, would have a truly Gothic difpro- 
 portioned appearance of fixty feet by thirteen. 
 
 D 4 The 
 
4* AGUIDETO 
 
 The two fide alleys were lighted each by a pair 
 of fimilar lights, befides another pair at the up- 
 per end, at prefent entire, and which illuftrate 
 what is here faid. Thus, whilft the upper end 
 of the room had a profufion of light, the lower 
 end would be in the fliade. The noble roof of 
 this fnigular edifice did but lately fall in, and 
 the entrance or porch is ftill (landing ; a fine cir- 
 cular arch, beautified with a deep cornice and 
 a portico on each fide. The only entire roof 
 now remaining, is of a building without the in- 
 clofure-wall. It was the fchool-houfe of the ab- 
 bot's tenants, and is a fingle ribbed arch that 
 groins from the walls. 
 
 There is a general difproportion remarkable in 
 Gothic churches, which mufl: have originated in 
 fome effeft intended by all the architects. Per- 
 haps to ftrike the mind with reverential awe at 
 the fight of magnificence, arifing from the vafl- 
 nefs of two dimenfions, and a third feemingly 
 difregarded. Or, perhaps fuch a determinate 
 height and length was found more favourable 
 than any other to the church fong, by giving 
 a deeper fwell to the choir of chaunting monks. 
 A remarkable deformity in this edifice, and for 
 which there is no apparent reafon or neceffity, 
 ^ is, that the north door, which is the principal 
 entrance, is on one fide of the window above it. 
 The tower has been fupported by four magni- 
 ficent arches, of which only one remains entire. 
 
 They 
 
THE LAKES. 41 
 
 They refted upon four tall pillars, whereof three 
 are finely cluilered, but the fourth is of a plain 
 unmeaning conftrudion. 
 
 « 
 
 From the abbey, if on horfeback, return by 
 Newton, Stainton, and Adgarly. See on the 
 right, a deep embayed coaft, the iflands of Wal- 
 ney and Foulney, Peel-caftle, and a variety of 
 extenfive views on all fides. At Adgarly the 
 new iron ore works are carried on under the 
 old workings. The richeft ore is found here 
 in immenfe quantities : one hundred and forty 
 tons have been raifed at one fliaft in twenty-four 
 hours. To the right, you have a view of the 
 ruins of Gleafton-caftle, the feat of the Flemings 
 foon after the conqueft ; which by a fucceffion 
 of marriages, went to Cansfield, then to Har- 
 rington, who enjoyed it fix defcents ; after that 
 to Bonville, and laftly to Gray, and was forfeited 
 by Henry Gray, Duke of Suffolk, A. D. 1559. 
 Leaving Urfwick behind, afcend Birkrig, a rocky 
 eminence, and from the beacon have a variety 
 of extenfive and pleafant views, of land and fea, 
 mountains and iflands. Ulverfton appears to the 
 north-eaft, feated under a hanging wood, and 
 beyond that, Furnefs-fells, in various fliapes, 
 form the grandeft termination that can be ima- 
 gined. The back view is the reverfc of this. 
 When the tide is up, you fee a fine arm of the 
 fea flretching far within land, terminated by 
 bold rocks and fteep fliores. Beyond this ex- 
 
 panfe. 
 
42 AGUIDETO 
 
 panfe, a far country is feen> and Lancaftcr town 
 and caltle, in a fine point of view, under a fcreen 
 of high grounds, over which fable Clougha rears 
 his venerable head. Ingleborough, behind many 
 other mountains, has a fine effed from this fta- 
 tion. If in a carriage, return from the abbey 
 by Dalton. This village is finely fituated on 
 the creft of a rocky eminence, floping to the 
 morning fun. At the upper end is a fquare 
 tower, where formerly the abbot held his fe- 
 cular court, and fecured his prifoners. The 
 keep is in the bottom of the tower, and is a 
 difmal dungeon. Ihis village being conveni- 
 ently fituated in a fine fporting country, is ho- 
 noured with an annual hunt, begun by the late 
 Lord Strange, and which is continued by his 
 fon, the truly noble Earl of Derby. It com- 
 mences the Monday after the 24th of Odober, 
 and continues two whole weeks. For the better 
 accommodation of the company, two excellent 
 long rooms were built a few years ago, and 
 Called Sportfman*s-halU 
 
 Return to Ulverfton, and from thence to the 
 priory of Conifliead, the paradife of Furnefs ; a 
 Mount-Edgecombe in miniature, which well de- 
 ferves a vifit from the curious traveller. The 
 houfe ftands on the fite of the priory of Conif- 
 liead, at the foot of a fine eminence, and the 
 ground falls gently from it an all fides. The 
 liopes are planted with liirubs and trees in fuch 
 
 a manner 
 
THE LAKES. 4% 
 
 ^ manner as to improve the elevation ; and the 
 waving woods that fly from it on each wing, 
 give it an airy and noble appearance. The fouth 
 front is in the modern tafte, extended by an 
 arcade. The north is in the Gothic ftile, witU 
 a piazza and wings. The apartments are ele- 
 gantly furniflied, and the houfe is good and con*- 
 venient. But, what recommends itfelf mofl to 
 the curious, is a plan of pleafure ground, on a 
 fmall fcale, containing beauties equal in number 
 to gardens of the greateft extent in England, 
 The variety of culminated grounds, and winding 
 Slopes, comprehended within this fweet fpot, fur^ 
 niflies all the advantage of mountains and vales, 
 woods and water. By the judicious management 
 of thefe aifemblages, the late owner performed 
 wonders. Confulting the genius of the place, 
 he called in to aid his plan, and harmonized t<J 
 his little fpot, the features of a country vail 
 in extent, and by nature highly pi^lurefque *, 
 whofe diftant parts agreeing with what was ini» 
 mediately near him, form a moil magnificent 
 whole. For, befides the ornamental grounds, 
 the views from the houfe are both pleafing an4 
 furpriftng. They are at once grand and el^r 
 jgant, rural and marine. On the eaftern fi4€, 
 you hav,e a fine ^ft^ary, fpott^d mth rocks, 
 
 iiles^ 
 
 * The note intended for this place proving too long, it is 
 inferted in the Addenda, and makes article VJll. 
 
44 A G U I D E T O 
 
 ifles, and peninfulas, a variety of fliorc, deeply 
 indented in fome places, in others compofed of 
 noble arched rocks, craggy, broken, and fringed 
 with wood ; — over thefe, hanging woods, inter- 
 mixed with cultivated inclofyres, covered with 
 a back ground of ftupendous mountains. As 
 a contraft to this view, from the other end of 
 the gravel walk (between two culn^inating hills, 
 covered with tall wood) is feen, in fine perfpec- 
 tive, a rich cultivated dale, divided by hedge- 
 row trees ; beyond thefe, hanging grounds cut 
 into inclofures, with fcattered farms, and above 
 them all, a long range of waving pafture ground 
 and Iheep walks, (hining in variety of vege- 
 tation. This fweet paftoral pi£lure is much 
 heightened by the deep fliade of the towering 
 wooded hills, between which it is viewed. Turn 
 to the left, the fcenery is all reverfed. Under 
 a range of tall fycamores, an expanfe of water 
 burfts upon the eye, and beyond it, land juft 
 vifible through the azure mift. Veffels traver- 
 fmg this bay are alfo feen in a moft piflurefque 
 manner, and, from the lower part of the houfe, 
 appear failing through the trees, and approaching 
 it till they drop anchor juft under the windows. 
 The range of fycamores has a fine effeft in this 
 fea view, by breaking the line in the watery 
 plain, and forming an elegant frame to a very 
 excellent pidure. By turning a little to the 
 right, the profped changes. At the head of a 
 
 floping^ 
 
THE LAKES. 45 
 
 floplng inclofure, and under the fldrts of a fleep 
 wood, a fequeflered cottage ftands in the niceft 
 point of beauty. 
 
 There is a great variety of pleafing views from 
 the different meandering walks and feats in the 
 wood: one at the hermitage, and another at 
 the feat in the bottom of the wood, where "Ul- 
 verfton and the environs make a pretty pidure. 
 From under the fhrubbery (on the eaftern fide 
 of the houfe, and from the gate at the north 
 end of the walk, behind a fwell of green hills) 
 if the afternoon fun Ihine, the conical fummits 
 of diftant mountains are feen ghftening like bur- 
 niflied gold, and pointing to the heavens in a 
 noble ftile. But, as this fweet fpot is injured 
 by defcription, I ftiall only add, that it is a great 
 omiffion in the curious traveller, to be in Furnefs 
 and not to fee fo wonderfully pretty a place, 
 to which nature has been fo profufe in noble 
 gifts, and where art has lent its beft affiftance, 
 under the regulation of an elegant fancy, and a 
 refined tafte*. 
 
 CONISTON. 
 
 * And, where it is not too much to go on in a language 
 of a ftill higher kind, 
 
 Here hills and vales, the woodland and the plain, 
 Here earth and water feem to drive again; 
 Not chaos-like, together crufh'd and bruif'd, 
 But, as the world, harnaonioufly confuf'd. 
 
 Pope^s Windjor Foreft^ 
 
4^ 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 CONISTON. 
 From Ulverfton to Conifton-water is eight 
 miles, either by Penny-bridge, or by Lowick, 
 both excellent carriage roads *. By Lowick the 
 road is along a narrow vale, beautifully divided 
 by hanging inclofures and fcattered farms, half 
 way up the mountains fides, whofe various heads 
 are covered with heath and brown vegetation. 
 About three miles from Ulverfton obferve a farm 
 houfe on the left, and a group of houfes before 
 you on the right.— Stop at the gate on the brow 
 of the hill, and have a diftant view of the lake 
 finely interfefted with high crowned peninfulas! 
 At the upper end, a fnow-white houfe is feen, 
 under a hanging wood, and to the north-eaft, 
 the lake feems to wind round the mountain's 
 feet. The whole range of Conifton fells is now 
 in fight, and under them a lower fweep of dark 
 rocks frown over the chryftal furface of the lake. 
 Advancing, on the left fee Lowick-hall, once the 
 feat of a family of that name. Behind this, a 
 difmal fcene of barrennefs prefents itfelf; cluf- 
 tered grey rocky mountains, variegated with 
 fome few ftripes of heath. After croffing the 
 outlet of the lake, at Lowick-bridge, thefe dreary 
 
 objefts 
 
 * Company, that return to Ulverfton the fame day, fliould 
 turn off to the left near Lowick-bridge, to Penny-bridge, and 
 have a charming view of a moft beautiful bay, efpedally if 
 the tide be up. It opens a little fhort of Penny-bridge, and 
 continues to Green-Odd, at the meetings of the rivers Leven 
 and Crake, where this country flate is laid up for exportation. 
 
THE LAKES. ^ 
 
 ©bjeds are found often intercepted by pieces 
 of arable ground, hanging fweetly to the eaft, 
 and cut into waving inclofures, with cottages 
 prettily fituated under ancient oaks, or venerable 
 yews. The white houfes, in thefe parts, covered 
 with blue Hate, have a neat appearance. The 
 ihatched cot is efteemed a more pidurefque ob- 
 ject ; yet the other kind, feen under a deep 
 green wood, or covered with a purple back- 
 ground of heath, have a pleafing effeft. 
 
 Reach the fouth end of the lake. Here it is 
 narrowed by rocky prominences from both fides> 
 forming between their curvatures, a variety of 
 pretty bays. The whole length of the lake 
 is about fix meafured miles, and the greateft 
 breadth about three quarters of a mile. The 
 greateft depth, by report, exceeds not forty fa- 
 thoms. A little higher the broadeft part com- 
 mences, and ftretches, with fmall curvatures, 
 to Water-head The fhores are frequently in- 
 dented, and one pretty bay opens lifter another 
 in a variety of forms. 
 
 STATION I. A little above the village of 
 Nibthwaite, the lake opens in full view. From 
 the rock, on the left of the road, you have a 
 general profped of the lake, upwards. This 
 ftation is found by obferving where you have a 
 hanging rock over the road, on the eaft, and 
 an aih-tree on the weft fide of the road. Oa 
 
 the 
 
48 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 the oppofite fhore, to the left, and clofe by the 
 water's edge, are fome ftripes of meadow and 
 green ground, cut into fmall indofures, with 
 fome dark coloured houfes under aged yew trees. 
 Two promontories projed a great way into the 
 Jake ; the broadeft is finely terminated by fteep 
 rocks, and crowned with wood; and both are 
 infulated when the lake is high. Upwards, over 
 a fine fheet of water, the lake is again interfered 
 by a far-projefting promontory, that fwells into 
 two eminences, and betwixt them the lake is 
 again caught, with fome white houfes at the feet 
 of the mountains. And more to the right, over 
 another headland, you catch a fourth view of 
 the lake, twifling to the north-eaft. Almoft 
 oppofite to this ftation, (lands a houfe on the 
 crown of a rock, covered with ancient trees, 
 that has a moft romantic appearance. 
 
 The noble fcenery increafes as you ride along 
 the banks. In fome places, bold rocks (lately 
 covered with wood) conceal the lake entirely, 
 and when the winds blow, the beating of furges 
 is heard juft under you. In other places, abrupt 
 openings (hew the lake anew, and there, when 
 calm, its hmpid furface, fhining like a chryftal 
 mirror, refleds the azure fky, or its dappled 
 clouds, in the fined mixture of nature's clare- 
 obfcure. On the weftern fide, the fiiore is more 
 variegated with fmall inclofures, fcattered cots, 
 grpyes, and .meadows. . 
 
 The 
 
THE LAKES. 49 
 
 The road continues along the caftern banks of 
 the lake ; here bare, there fweetly fringed with 
 a few tall trees, the fmall remains of its ancient 
 woods, that till lately cloathed the whole. 
 
 STATION 11. When you are oppofite to 
 the peninfula laft defcribed, proceed through a 
 gate on the left hand, and from the rocky emi- 
 nence you have a general view of the lake, both 
 ways. To the fouth, a fweet bay is formed be- 
 tween the horns of two peninfulas, and beyond 
 that a fine Iheet of water appears, terminated by 
 the promontories which form the ftraits, through 
 which the lake has its outlet. From thence, 
 the coaft is beautifully diverfified by a number 
 of green eminences, crowned with wood ; and 
 fequeftered cottages, interfperfed amongft them, 
 half concealed by yew trees, and, above them, a 
 wave of rocky fpiral mountains, drelTed in brown 
 vegetation, form the moft romantic fcenes. Be- 
 tween this and a wooded eminence, a green 
 hill, cut into inclofures to the very top, in fome 
 parts patched with rock and little groves, has a 
 beautiful appearance ; efpecially when contrafted 
 with the barren fcenes on one hand, and the 
 deep fhade of a waving wood on the other. At 
 the foot of this cultivated traft, and on the mar- 
 gin of the lake, a few white houfes, partly con- 
 cealed in a grove, look like enchanted feats on 
 fairy ground. Behind thefe, a barren, bleak 
 mountain frowns in fullen majefly, and down his 
 
 E furrowed 
 
5<5 A GUIDE TO 
 
 furrowed fide the Black-beck of Torver rolls its 
 fretted torrent. Juft at your feet lies the oblong 
 rocky ifle of Peel ; and near it the dark points 
 of half immerfed rocks juft fhew themfelves by 
 turns. Here is the fineft pi6ture of the lake, 
 and when it is fmooth, the whole is feen refleded 
 on the fliining furface of the watery mirror. On 
 the weftern fide the coaft is fteep rocks. The 
 eaftern fide is much embayed. The high end 
 of the lake is here in view, yet it feems to wind 
 both ways behind the oppofite promontories. 
 The range of naked rocks, that crofs the head 
 of the lake, appear now awful, from their fable 
 hue, and behind them the immenfe mafs of Cove, 
 Rydal-head, and many namelefs mountains, have 
 a moft ftupendous appearance, and feeming in- 
 accelfible height. A fucceffion of pretty bays 
 open to the traveller as he advances ; the banks 
 become more wooded, and more cultivation ap- 
 pears. On the weftern margin ftands the lady 
 of the lake, Conifton-hall, concealed in a grove 
 of tall trees, and above it, the village of the 
 fame name. The hall has only changed mafters 
 twice fince the conqueft, and has belonged to 
 the family of Fleming moft of the time. 
 
 STATION III. After crofting the common, 
 where grows a pifturefque yew tree on the right 
 hand, and a fmall peninfula ruflies into the lake 
 on the left, crowned with a fingle tree, enter 
 the grove, and pafs a gate and bridge that crofles 
 
 a fmall 
 
THE LAKES. 51 
 
 a fmall rivulet. — Look for a fragment of dark 
 coloured rock on the margin of the water, and 
 near it will be found the beft ftand for the artift 
 to take the fineft view on the lake. Looking 
 acrofs the lake, by the fouth end of the grove 
 that conceals Conifton-hall, and over the culti- 
 vated tract that rifes behind it, between two 
 fwells of rocks, a catara<5t will meet the eye, 
 ilTuing from the bofom of the mountains. The 
 fide-ground, on the right, is a wooded, floping 
 rock, and over it the road is catched flanting 
 along. The near fore-ground is the greateft 
 extent of the lake ; and behind the immediate 
 mountains, the Weflmorland fells are feen tow- 
 ering to the clouds. This ftation will be found 
 by company coming down the lake, at the cir- 
 cular bay, where the road firil joins the level 
 of the water. 
 
 The next grand view is had in the boat, and 
 from the centre of the lake, oppofite to Conifton- 
 hall. Looking towards the mountains, the lake 
 fpreads itfelf into a noble expanfe of tranfparent 
 water, and burfts into a bay on each fide, bor- 
 dered with verdant meadows, and inclofed with 
 a variety of grounds rifmg in an exceedingly bold 
 manner. The objeds are beautifully diverfified 
 amongft themfelves, and contrafted by the fineft 
 exhibition of rural elegance (cultivation, and 
 pafturage, waving woods, and floping inclofures, 
 adorned by nature, and improved by art) under 
 E 2 the 
 
52 AGUIDETO 
 
 the bold fides of ftupendous mountains, whofe 
 airy fummits, the elevated eye cannot now reach, 
 and which almoft deny acceis to the human kind. 
 
 Following the line of ftiore from Conifton-hall 
 to the upper end of the lake, the village of 
 Conifton is in full view, and confiRs of feats, 
 groups of houfes, farms, and cots, fcattered in 
 a pidurefque manner over the cultivated Hope. 
 Some are fnow white, others grey ; fome ftand 
 forth on bold eminences at the head of green 
 inclofures, backed with fteep woods; others are 
 pitched on fwift declivities, and feem hanging 
 in the air ; fome again are on a level with the 
 lake ; and all are neatly covered with blue flate, 
 the produce of the mountains, and beautified 
 with ornamental yews, hollies, and tall pines, pr 
 firs. This is a charming fcene, when the morn- 
 ing fun tinges the whole with a variety of tints. 
 In the point of beauty and centre of perfpedive, 
 a white houfe, under a hanging wood, gives life 
 to this pidure. Here a range of dark rugged 
 rocks rife abruptly, and deeply contraft the tran- 
 fparent furface of the lake, and the ftripe of 
 verdure that iVirts their feet. The eaftern fhore 
 is not lefs bold and embayed*. 
 
 It will be allowed, that the views on this lake 
 are beautiful and pidlurefque, yet they pleafe 
 
 more 
 
 * The flate brought down from the mountains is laid up 
 here, till put on board boats that tranfport it to the water-foot. 
 
THELAKES. 53 
 
 more than furprife. The hills that immediately 
 inclofe the lake, are ornamental, but humble. 
 The mountains at the head of the lake are great, 
 noble, and fublime, without any thing that is 
 horrid or terrible. They are bold, and fteep, 
 without the projecling precipice, the overhanging'' 
 rock, or pendant cliff. The hanging woods, 
 waving inclofures, and airy fites, are elegant, 
 beautiful, and pi6\urefque ; and the whole may 
 be feen with eafe and pleafure. In a fine morn- 
 ing, there is not a more pleafant rural ride; and 
 then the beauties of the lake are feen to the moft 
 advantage. In the afternoon, if the fun (hme, 
 much of the efFeft is loft by the change of light j 
 and fuch as vifit it from the north, lofe all the 
 charms arifmg from the fwell of mountains, by 
 turning their backs upon them. 
 
 The feeder of this lake, befides the Black-beck 
 of Torver, is Conifton-beck. It defcends from 
 the mountains, or rather is precipitated, in a 
 ihort courfe to the lake, which it enters on the 
 weftern canton, in a clear ftream, concealed by 
 its banks. The lake bends away to the eaft, 
 and its intermediate fhore is a beach of pebble 
 and fand. This beach is adorned with a cot, fet 
 under a full-topt tree. 
 
 The char here, are faid to be the finefl; in 
 England. They are taken later than on Win- 
 dermere-water, and continue longer in the fpring. 
 
 E 3 At 
 
54 A GUIDE TO 
 
 At Water-head*, the road to the eaft Icadi 
 to Amblefide, eight miles; to Hawkftiead, three, 
 Afcend a fteep hill fitrrounded with wood, and 
 have a back view of the lake. To the north is 
 a moft awful fcene of mountains heaped upon 
 mountains, in every variety of horrid fliape. A- 
 mongft thtm fweeps to the north a deep winding 
 chafm, darkened by overhanging rocks, that the 
 eye cannot pierce, nor the imagination fathom y 
 from which turn your face to the eaft, and you 
 have a view of fome part of Windermere-water. 
 The road foon divides ; the left leads to Amble- 
 fide, the right to Hawkftiead, which ftands under 
 a mountain, at the upper end of a narrow valley. 
 The church is feated on the front of an eminence 
 that commands the vale, which is floated with 
 
 ESTHWAITE-WATER, 
 
 Two miles in length, and half a mile in breadth, 
 interfered by a peninfula from each fide, jutting 
 far into the lake, finely elevated, crowned with 
 cultivation, and bordered with fringed trees, and 
 coppice wood. The lake is encompafled with 
 a good carriage road, and over its outlet is a 
 narrow ftone bridge. On the banks are villages 
 
 and 
 
 * A little to the weft, and at the north end of the lake 
 ftands the houfe of the late George Knott, Efq. who made 
 many beautiful improvements on his eftate here, which, 
 eontrafted with the native rudenefs of the furrounding hills, 
 have a moft pleafing effeft, and are well worth viewing hj 
 the curious traveller. 
 
THE LAKES. 55 
 
 aftd fcattered houfes> fweetly fituated under 
 woods and hanging grounds, enamelled with de- 
 lightful verdure and foft vegetation ; all which 
 is heightened by the deep (hade of the woods, 
 and the ftrong back-ground of rocky mountains. 
 At the head of a gentle flope, with a juft: ele- 
 vation, a handfonie modern houfe, Bell-mont, is 
 charmingly fituated, and commands a delightful 
 view of the lake, with all its environs. 
 
 The fifli here are perch, pike, eel, and trout. 
 No char are found in this lake, though it is 
 eonneded with Windermere. 
 
 From Hawkfhead to Amblefide, five miles ; 
 to the horfe-ferry on Windermere-water, four 
 miles. On horfeback, this latter is the more 
 eligible route, as it leads immediately to the 
 centre of the lake, where all its beauties are 
 feen to the greatefl: advantage. 
 
 WINDERMERE. 
 
 Windermere-water, like that of Conlfton, is 
 viewed to the greateft advantage by facing the 
 mountains, which rife in grandeur on the eye, 
 and fwell upon the imagination as they are 
 approached. 
 
 The road to the ferry is round the head of 
 Efthwaite-water, through the villages of Colt- 
 E 4 houfe 
 
5^ 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 houfe and Sawreys. Afcend a deep hill, and 
 from its fummit, have a view of a long reach of 
 Windermere-v^^ater, ftretching far to the fouth,, 
 till loft between two high promontories. The 
 road ferpentizes round a rocky mountain, till 
 you come under a broken icar, that in fome 
 places hangs over the way, and where ancient 
 yews and hollies grow fantaftically amongft the 
 fallen rocks. This brings you foon to 
 
 STATION L Near the ifthmus of the ferry 
 point, obferve two fmall oak trees that inclofe 
 the road ; thefe will guide you to this celebrated 
 ftation. Behind the tree, on the weftern fide 
 afcend to the top of the neareft rock, and from 
 thence, in two views, command all the beauties 
 of this magnificent lake. But, it will be more 
 convenient to flop fhort of the two trees, and 
 afcend the weft fide of the rock, for here the 
 afcent is eafier, and you open on the view at once. 
 — To do this, juft where you crofs the road, 
 obferve on the left, a fharp-edged procumbent 
 rock ; turn from that a httle to the right, and 
 gain the fummit of the crag. The trees are of 
 fingular ufe in anfwering the purpofes of fore- 
 ground, and of interfering the lake. The rock 
 rifes perpendicularly from the lake, and forms a 
 pretty bay. In front. Ramps-holme, or Berk- 
 fhire-ifland, prefents itfelf in all its length, cloath- 
 cd in wood. To the left, the ferry point, clofing 
 with Crow-holme, a wooded illand, forms a fine 
 
 promontory* 
 
THE LAKES. 57 
 
 j5roraontory. Juft behind this, the mountain 
 retiring inward, makes a femicircular bay, fur- 
 rounded with a few acres of the moft elegant 
 verdure, floping upward from the water\ edge^ 
 graced with a cottage in the fineft point of vie;w. 
 Above it, the mountain rifes in an agreeable 
 wildnefs, variegated with fcattered trees, and fil- 
 ver-grey rocks. An extent of water of twelve 
 miles circumference, fpreads itfelf to the north, 
 frequently interfered with promontories, or fpot- 
 ted with iflands. Amongft them, the Holme, or 
 great ifland, an oblong tra£t of thirty acres, tra- 
 verfes the lake in an oblique line, furrounded by 
 a number of inferior ifles, finely formed, and 
 drefl: in wood. The pointed dark rocks of Cur*- 
 lew-crags appear above the water, and others juft 
 concealed, give a fable hue to that part of the 
 lake. Rough-holme is a circular ifle, covered 
 with trees. Lady-holme, where in ancient times 
 ftood an oratory, is an ifle of an oval form, vefted 
 with coppice wood. Hen-holme is a rock cover- 
 ed with ihrubs. Grafs-holme is at prefent (haded 
 with a grove of oaks. And two fmaller iflets 
 borrow their names from the lilies of the valley, 
 which decorate them. Thefe, with Crow-holme 
 and Berkftiire-ifland, form this Archipelago. 
 
 To the north of this magnificent fcene, a glo- 
 rious fheet of water expands itfelf to the right 
 and left, in curves bearing from the eye; bounded 
 on the weft by the continuation of the mountain 
 
 where 
 
5S AGUIDETO 
 
 where you ftand, whofe bold lofty fide is embel- 
 liflied with growing trees, fhrubs, and coarfe ve- 
 getation, intermixed with grey rocks, that group 
 finely with the deep green of yews and hollies. 
 The eaftern view is a noble contraft to this, a- 
 domed with all that is beautiful, grand, and fub- 
 lime. The immediate fpace is much cultivated. 
 The variety of hanging grounds are immenfe, 
 confifting of woods, groves, and inclofures, all 
 terminating in rocky uplands of various forffis. 
 It fpreads out above in a beautiful variety of wa- 
 ving inclofures, intermixed with hanging. woods, 
 and fhrubby circular fpots, over-topped with wild 
 grounds, and rocky ridges of broken mountains. 
 In fome places it fwells into fpacious bays, fringed 
 with trees, whofe buftiy heads wave beautifully 
 over the chryftal waters. The parfonage houfe 
 is feen fweetly feated under a range of tall firs. 
 Following the fame line of fhore, above the eaft 
 ferry point, and on the banks of the bay, the 
 tops of the houfes, and the church of Windermere 
 are juft feen. Above that, Bannerig and Orreft- 
 head rife gradually into points, cultivated to the 
 top, and cut into inclofures, Thefe are contrafted 
 by the rugged crags of Bifcot-how. Troutbeck- 
 park comes next in view, and over that, Hill-bell 
 rears his conic top, and Fairfield fwells in Alpine 
 pride, rivalled only by RydaPs loftier head. 
 
 The eaftern coaft, to the fouth of what has 
 been defcribed, is ftill more pleafing in- variety 
 
 of 
 
THE LAKES. 59 
 
 of little groves, interpofed inclofures, and fcat- 
 tered houfes, fweetly fecreted. To the fouth, 
 and from the weftern coaft, at three miles dif- 
 tance, Rawlinfon's-nab, a high crowned pro- 
 montory, (hoots far into the lake ; and from 
 the oppofite fliore, you fee the Storrs, another 
 wooded promontory, ftretching far into the wa- 
 ter, pointing at the rocky ifle of Ling-holme. 
 Over Rawlinfon's-nab, the lake fpreads out in a 
 magnificent ftieet of water ; and following the 
 winding fhore far to the fouth, it feems loft be- 
 hind a promontory on the eaftern fide. Over 
 two woody mountains. Park and Landen-nab, 
 the blue fummits of other diftant mountains, in- 
 dented in various forms, clofe the fcene. 
 
 Return to the road, and at the gate leading 
 to the ferry-houfe, follow the path to the left, 
 having a ftone-wall on the right, until you ap- 
 proach the farm-houfe called Harrow. Here a 
 charming pidure will prefent itfelf in an elegant 
 ftile. The ifland from this ftand appears with 
 much variety of fhore ; indented and embayed ; 
 almoft furrounded with iflets j adorned with an- 
 cient oaks and fcattered trees *. Here the lake 
 is caught a fecond time over the ifland ; and the 
 village and church of Bownefs hang on its banks. 
 A fweeter pidure than this, the lake does not 
 furnifh. — The artift will find a proper ftand on 
 the infide of the ftone-wall. Having 
 
 * In the colleilion of Views of the Lahsf engraved by 
 Meffrs. Byrne, &c. Mr. Farington's view from the hitt 
 above the ferry-houfe, this fccne reprefeats. 
 
6o A GUIDE TO 
 
 Having from this ftation enjoyed thefe charm- 
 ing views, defcend to the ferry-houfe, and pro-* 
 ceed to the great ifland, where you will again 
 fee all that is charming on the lake, or mag- 
 nificent and fublime in the environs, in a new 
 point of view. 
 
 Of this fequeftered fpot Mr. Young fpeaks in 
 rapture*, and Mr. Pennant has done it much 
 honour by his defcription |. But alas ! it is no 
 more to be feen in that beautiful unaffefted ftate 
 in which thofe gentlemen faw it. The fweet 
 fecreted cottage is no more, and the fycamore 
 grove is fled. The prefent owner has modern- 
 ized a fine flope in the bofom of the ifland into 
 a formal garden. An unpleafing contrafl: to the 
 natural fimplicity and infular beauty of the place. 
 What reafon he had for adopting fuch a plan, 
 I fliall not enquire ; much lefs fliall I treat him 
 with abufe for executing it to his own fancy. 
 The want of choice might jufl;ify his having a 
 garden on the ifland ; but, fince it is now in his 
 power to have it elfewhere, I hope it will be his 
 pleafure when he re-vifits the place, to reftore 
 the ifland to its native ftate of paftoral fimplicity, 
 and rural elegance, by its removal {. 
 
 This 
 
 * Six month's tour Vol, 3, page 176. 
 ■f Tour in Scotland, page 33. 
 
 X Our author, feems, with Mr. Hutchinfon, to have had no 
 good will to Mr. Englifh's garden. But I query whether 
 their cenfures be critically juft. In the firft place, it does 
 
 not 
 
THE LAKES. 6t 
 
 This ifland was long the property of the Phi- 
 
 lipfons, once a family of confequence in thefe 
 
 parts; and Sir Chriftopher Philipfon refided upon 
 
 it in the beginning; of this century. 
 
 ^ STATION 
 
 not appear that the owner confidered this inclofure as a fpe- 
 cimen of his tafte ; where then is the propriety of judging 
 it by the principles of tafte ? If this be right, thofe who 
 make the tour of the lakes will find little but blemiflies in 
 moft of the rural habitations they may fee in landfcapes, and 
 which are often greatly praifed. For there can be but a very- 
 few of them where a moderate fancy could not tell how to 
 make them better,. Moft probably the proprietor of the gar- 
 den, like the founders of moft country cottages, confidered 
 ufe as the chief objeft in its formation ; and if fo, by that teft 
 it fhould principally be tried. But as an objea merely, feen 
 from the fhore of the lake, Mr. Hutchinfon tells us, it is dif- 
 gujling. If I may judge of other people's unbiaffed notions 
 by my own, I believe very few will concur with this decifion. 
 On the contrary, I believe it will attraft the eye more than 
 moft other objefts then in fight; and that not on account of 
 its deformity, but from the inherent principles of tafte. In 
 the midft of fimple varigated nature, formal works of arty have 
 have often the moft pleafing effeft. They pleafe from contraft 
 inform and colour, and alfo from our being accuftomed to fee 
 them in fuch fitiiatlons. For the works of men's hands have 
 always been found amongft the works of nature. We may 
 be pleafed, indeed, with the beauties of an intermixture of 
 wood and lawn, but we muft be better pleafed, when they 
 are accompanied with water; better ftill when rocks and 
 mountains are added to them ; and higheft of all, when the 
 profpeft is furniftied with fome ufeful {right-angled, if you 
 will) ereftion of brick or ftone. 
 
 If this be not true, the chief reafons for raifing objefts of 
 mafonry on proper files (attempted to be recommended in 
 
 Article 
 
62 A GUIDE TO 
 
 STATION II. The views from this deli- 
 cious foot are many and charming. — From the 
 fouth fide of the ifland you look over a noble 
 extent of water, bounded in front by waves of 
 diftant mountains, that rife from the water's 
 edge. The two ferry-points form a pidurefque 
 ftrait ; and beyond that, the Storrs on one fide, 
 
 and 
 
 Article VIII. of the AdJenda) wi'll vam'fli, and we mnft con- 
 demn the tafle of the moft applauded landfcape piauies that 
 ve fee. In fhort, though Mr. Engh'fli's houfe and garden, 
 might both of them have been much better formed than we 
 find them, with refpeft to the objefts amongft which they 
 fland, yet I cannot but think them a confiderable accelGon to 
 the beauties of the lake. And could one with a wifh throw 
 a bridge from (hore to fliore, place the uncommon row of 
 houfes near Shap acrofs the ifland, or even conjure a city 
 upon it, I fhould perfuade myfelf (however it might vary 
 the charaaeKi or deviate from certain limited and rigid con- 
 ceptions of rural elegance) that, beautiful as the profpefts 
 of this lake certainly are, there is no eye but would then 
 dwell upon them with more pleafure than it poffibly can do 
 at prefent. It might then become a rival to the celebrated 
 lake of Geneva, which owes its principal fupeiiority over 
 all other lakes to its having a city at one end, and being 
 furrounded with palaces. — Indeed I prefume it will not be 
 eafy to point out an inftance of natural beauty of any kind, 
 which would not receive fome advantage from the ideas of 
 rkhnefsy art, and contrajl. 
 
 X. 
 
 This ifland is now the property of John Chriftian Curwen, 
 Efq. who, fince the writing of the above note, has finiflied the 
 large manfion-houfe begun by Mr. Englifti, demoliflied the 
 garden, and has made many improvements upon it in an 
 elegant ftile. 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 63 
 
 and Rawlinfon*s-nab on the other, fliooting far 
 into the lake, form a grand finuofity, while the 
 intermediate ftiores are beautifully indented with 
 wooded promontories, or ornamented with ele- 
 gant edgings of luxuriant trees. Berkfhire and 
 Crow-holme iflands break the line in this noble 
 expanfe of water. The eaftern fhore difcovers 
 much cultivation ; and the fucceeding hills are 
 much diverfified, and ftrangely tumbled about. 
 Some are laid out in grafs inclofures, others cut 
 with hedges, and fringed with trees ; one is 
 crowned with wood, and fkirted with the fweet- 
 efl: verdure j another waves with corn, and the 
 whole is a mixture of objeas that conftitute 
 the moft pleafmg of rural fcenes. — The upper 
 grounds are wild, and paftured with flocks. 
 
 STATION III. From the north fide of the 
 ifland, the views are more fublime and vaft. 
 The lake is here feen both ways. To the fouth, 
 an expanfe of water fpreads on both hands, and 
 behind, you fee a fucceffion of promontories, 
 with variety of fhore, patched with iflands, and 
 the whole encircled by an amphitheatre of dif- 
 tant hills, rifmg in a noble ftile. Turning to the 
 north, the view is over a reach of tlje lake, fix 
 miles in length, and above one in breadth, inter- 
 rupted with fcattered iflands of different figure 
 and drefs ; which on a calm day may be feen 
 diftindly refleded from the limpid furface of the 
 water that furrpunds them. The environs ex- 
 hibit 
 
A GUIDE TO 
 
 hibit all the grandeur of Alpine fcenes. The 
 conic fuinmits of Langdale-pikes, and Hill-bell ; 
 the broken ridge of Wrynofe, and the rocky 
 point of Kirkftone ; the overhanging cliff of 
 Hardknot*; the uniform mafs of Fairfield and 
 Rydal-head, with the far extended mountains of 
 Troutbeck and Kentmere, — form as magnificent 
 an amphitheatre, and as grand an alTemblage of 
 mountains, dells, and chafms, as ever the fancy 
 of Pouffin fuggefted, or the genius of Rofa in- 
 vented. The ifland is the centre of this amphi- 
 theatre, and in the oppofite point, diredly over 
 the extremity of the lake, is Rydal-hall, fweetly 
 feated for the enjoyment of thefe fcenes, and 
 animating the wkoje in return. The immediate 
 borders of the lake are adorned with villages 
 and fcattered cots. Calgarthf, and Rayrig, 
 grace its banks. 
 
 After 
 
 *■ Langdale-pikes, Wrynofe, and Hardknot are named, as 
 being in the environs, and in the weftern canton of this am- 
 phitheatre, yet are in reality not feen from the ifland, being 
 intercepted by a procefs of Furnefs-fells. 
 
 t This old manfion is built much in the fl:ile of Levens and 
 Sizergh. Some of the rooms have been elegantly finifhed. 
 But having been a long time in the pofFeffion of farmers, who 
 occupy but a part of it, it is much gone out of repair, and 
 has, on the whole a melancholy appearance. This circum- 
 ftance, in concurrence with the fuperftitious notions, which 
 have ever been common in country places, and the particular 
 mentioned below, have probably given rife to a report, which 
 kas long prevailed, that the houfe is haunted. And many 
 
 are 
 
THE LAKES. 65 
 
 After enjoying thefe internal views from the 
 bofom of the lakd, I recommend faihng down to 
 Rawlinfon's-nab. On the fouth fide of it, a 
 pretty bay opens for landing. In the courfe of 
 the voyage, you fhould touch at the different 
 iflands in the way, where every objedl is varied 
 by a change of features, in fuch a manner as 
 renders them wholly new. The great illand 
 changes its appearance, and, joined with the 
 ferry points, cuts the lake in two. The houfe 
 thereon becomes an important objedl. The 
 ferry-houfe, feen under the fycamore grove, has 
 
 F a fine 
 
 are the ftories of frightful vifions, and mifchievous deeds, 
 which the gobh'ns of the place are faid to have performed 
 to terrify and diltrefs the hannkfs neighbourhood. Thefe 
 fables are not yet en'irely difbeh'eved. Spedlres ftill are 
 feen, and thtre are two human flvulls, which have lain in 
 the window of a large room as long as can be remembered, 
 whofe hirtory and reputed properties, are too Angular not to 
 contribute fomething to this ftory of the haunted houfcy and 
 to let them pafs over in this note. 
 
 It has been a popular tale in thefe parts, of immemorial 
 ftanding, that thefe f]<ulls formerly beloni^ed to two poor 
 old people, who where unjiiilly executed for a robbei-y; that, 
 to perpetuate their innocence, fome ghofl; brought them 
 there, arid that they are for that end irule/irufiible, and, in 
 efFeft immoveable. For, it is faid, to what place foever they 
 where taken, oi however ufed, they were (till prefently feen 
 again in their old dormitory, the window. As the report 
 goes, they have been buried, burnt, powdered, and difperfed 
 in the wind, and upon the lake, feveral times to no purpofe, 
 ae to thdr removal or deftrudion. So tar fays common fame. 
 
 Certain 
 
66 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 a fine efFe£t ; and the broken cliff over it, coa- 
 llitutes a moft agreeable pidure. The greateffc 
 beauty of fhore, and the fineft rural fcenes in 
 nature, are found by traverfing the lake ; and 
 viewing each in turn, they receive improvement 
 from contraft. — The weftern fide is fpread with 
 enchanting fylvan fcenes the eaftern waves with 
 all the improved glory of rural magnificence. 
 
 STATION IV. Rawlinfon's-nab is a pen. 
 infular rock, of a circular figure, fwelling to a 
 crown in the centre, covered with low wood ; 
 there are two of them j but it is from the crown 
 
 of 
 
 Certain it is thefe human remains ftill exift. And it would 
 be thought an impeachment of the tafte and curiofity of 
 the nymphs and fwains of the neighbouring villages, if they 
 could not fay they had once feen the fkulls of Calgarth. 
 
 As a more rational account of the matter, (though ftill 
 lame and unfatisfadlory) it is told by fome, that there for- 
 merly lived in the houfe a famous doftrefs, who had two 
 llceletons by her, for the ufual purpofes of her profeffion ; 
 and the flcuUs happening to meet with better prefervation 
 than the reft of the bones, they were accidently honoured 
 with this fingular notice. But be their origin what it may, 
 their legend is too whimfical and improbable to deferve being 
 recorded, otherwife than as an inftance of the never failing 
 credulity of ignorance and fnperftition. X. 
 
 Calgarth eftate is now the property of Dr. Watfon, the 
 learned bifhop of Landaff", who has built an elegant manfion 
 thereon, which, with the other improvements now going 
 forward, in th^t fine fituation, will make it one of tlj.e moft 
 feeautiful places in this country. 
 
THE LAKES. €7 
 
 •of the interior Nab, you have the prefent fur- 
 prifmfT view of two fine fheets of water, that 
 bend diiFerent ways. 
 
 The view to the fouth is bounded on both 
 fides by a bold and various fhore. The hills are 
 wooded and rough, but fpotted in parts with 
 fmall inclofures, and their tops burft into rocks 
 of various fliapes. 
 
 The view to the north is more beautiful : an 
 extent of three miles of the lake, is broken intp 
 by the bold promontory, the Storrs, and, above 
 that, Berkfliire-ifland is charmingly placed. Ban- 
 nerig and Orreft-head rifing inward from the 
 fhore in magnificent flopes, are feen from hence 
 to great advantage. This beautiful fcene is 
 well contrafted on the oppofite fide, by a ridge 
 of hanging woods, fpread over wild romantic 
 grounds, that flioot abruptly into bold and fpi- 
 rited proje6lions*. 
 
 Return to Bownefs, and conclude the furvey 
 by taking Mr. Young's general view of the lake, 
 where, at one glance, you command ail its firik- 
 ing beauties. No ftatiop can better anfwer the 
 purpofe, and it would here be an injuftice done 
 to the difcoverer, to deviate one tittle from his 
 defcription. 
 
 F2 STATION 
 
 ^ As it commanded more of the mountains at the head 
 f f the lake, Mr. Farington has given the view from Gill* 
 j^'^s.dj OQ tke oppofite fhore. 
 
68 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 STATION V. "Thus having viewed the 
 mod pleafing objeQs from thefe points, let me 
 next condud: you to a fpot, where, at one glance, 
 you command them all in frefli fituations, and ali 
 afluming a new appearance. For this purpofe, 
 you return to the village, and taking the bye- 
 road to the turnpike, mount the hill without 
 turning your head (if I was your guide, I would 
 condud you behind a fmall hill, that you might 
 come at once upon the view) till you almoft 
 gain the top, when you will be ftruck with afto- 
 nilhment at the profpedl fpread at your feet, 
 which, if not the moft fuperlative view that na- 
 ture can exhibit, ftie is more fertile in beauties 
 than the reach of my imagination will allow me 
 to conceive. It would be mere vanity to attempt 
 to defcribe a fcene which beggars all defcription ; 
 but that you may have fome faint idea of the 
 outlines of this wonderful picture, 1 will juft 
 give the particulars of which it confifts. 
 
 " The point on which you fland is the fide of 
 a large ridge of hills that form the eaflern bound- 
 ary of the lake, and the fituation high enough to 
 look down upon all the objedls : a circumftance 
 of great importance, which painting cannot imi- 
 tate. In landfcapes you are either on a level 
 with the objefts, or look up to them ; the painter 
 cannot give the decHvity at your feet, which 
 leffens the objed as much in the perpendicular 
 iine, as in the horizontal one. You look down 
 
THE LAKES. 69 
 
 ^pon a noble winding Valley, of about twelve 
 miles long, every where inclofed with grounds, 
 which rife in a very bold and various manner ; 
 in fome places bulging into mountains^ abruptj 
 ■wild, and uncultivated ; in others breaking into 
 rocks, craggy, pointed, and irregular ; here ri- 
 fing into hills covered with the nobleft woods, 
 prefenting. a gloomy brownnefs of Ihade, almofl: 
 from the clouds, to the refledion of the trees in 
 the limpid water of the lake they fo beautifully 
 ikirt ; there waving in glorious flopes of culti- 
 vated inclofures, adorned in the fweetefl: manner 
 with every objed that can give variety to art, 
 or elegance to nature ; trees, woods, villages, 
 houfes, farms, fcattered with pi£lurefque confu- 
 fion, and waving to the eye in the mod romantic 
 landfcapes that nature can exhibit. 
 
 *' This valley, fo beautifully inclofed, is floated 
 by the lake, which fpreads forth to the right and 
 left, in one vaft, but irregular expanfe of tran- 
 fparent water ; a more noble objeft can hardly 
 be imagined. Its immediate (hore is traced in 
 every variety of line that fancy can imagine ; 
 fometimes contracting the lake into the appear- 
 ance of a noble winding river ; at others retiring 
 from it, and opening into large bays, as if for 
 navies to anchor in ; promontories fpread \vith 
 woods, or fcattered with trees and inclofures, 
 projeding into the water in the moft piClurefque 
 ftile imaginable-, rocky points breaking the Ihore, 
 F 3 and 
 
70 AGUIDETO 
 
 and rearing their bold heads above the water; 
 m a word, a variety that amazes the beholder. 
 
 " But what finifhes the fcene with an elegance 
 too delicious to be imagined, is, this beautiful 
 fheet of water being dotted with no lefs than ten 
 iflands, diflin£lly comprehended by the eye ; all 
 of the moft bewitching beauty. The large one 
 prefents a waving various line, which rifes from 
 the water in the mofi: pifturefque inequalities of 
 furface : high land in one place, low in another, 
 clumps of trees in this fpot, fcattered ones in 
 that, adorned by a farm-houfe on the water's 
 edge, and backed with a little wood, vying in 
 fimple elegance with Baromean palaces : fome of 
 the fmaller iflets rifmg from the lake, like little 
 hills of wood ; fome only fcattered with trees, 
 and others of grafs of the fineft verdure ; a more 
 beautiful variety is no where to be feen. 
 
 " Strain your imagination to command the 
 idea of fo noble an expanfe of water, thus glo- 
 rioufly environed, fpotted with iflands, more 
 beautiful than would have iflued from the hap- 
 pieft painter. E*idure the mountains rearing 
 their majeftic heads with native fublimity; the 
 valt rocks boldly projeding their terrible craggy 
 points ; and, in the path of beauty, the varie- 
 gated inclofures of the moft charming verdure^ 
 hanging to the eye in every pifturefque form 
 that can grace landfcape, with the moft exqui- 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 71 
 
 fite touches of la belle nature. If you raife your 
 fancy to fomething infinitely beyond this aflem- 
 blage of rural elegancies, you may have a faint 
 notion of the unexampled beauties of this ra- 
 viftiing landfcape.** 
 
 If the fun fhines, this view of Mr. Young's can 
 only be enjoyed early in the morning; as that 
 on the oppofite Ihore, behind the two oak trees, 
 is, from a parity of circumftances, an afternoon 
 profpeft. Thefe are the fined ftations on the 
 lake for pleafing the eye, but are by much too 
 elevated for the purpofe of the artift, who will 
 find the pifturefque points on the great illand 
 well fuited for his intention of morning and even- 
 ing landfcape, having command of fore-ground, 
 the objefts well afcertained, grouped, and dif- 
 pofed in the fineft order of nature. A pidure 
 of the north end of the lake, taken from this 
 ifland, will far exceed the fanciful produftion of 
 the happieft pencil. — This may be eafily verified 
 by the ufe of the convex reflecting glafs. 
 
 Rawlinfon's-nab is a pifturefque point, either 
 for the eye or the pencil. You are there ad- 
 vanced a great way into the lake, in the midft 
 of the fineft fcenes, and with a charming fore- 
 ground. 
 
 From the low Cat-crag, which is a little to the 
 fouth of the Nab, you have a view of the fouth 
 F 4 end 
 
725 A GUIDE TO 
 
 end of the lake, and as far north as the great 
 illand. I he ferry points, the Storrs, the Nab, 
 and the Icffer iflands, are diflindtly viewecj in a 
 fine order. The houfe on the illand is a good 
 objea ; and the beauties of the weftern fhore to 
 the fouth of the Crag, are only feen from thence. 
 
 To fum up the pecuhar beauties of Winder- 
 mere, its great variety of landfcapes, and en- 
 chanting views, after what Mr. Young has faid 
 of it, is unnecefTary. He allowed himfelf time 
 to examine this lake, and the the lakes in Cum- 
 berland, and he defcribes each of them with 
 much tafte and judgment, and it is evident he 
 gives the preference to Windermere*. Yet this 
 ought not to prejudice the minds of thofe who 
 have the tour to make, againfl: fuch as prefer 
 Derwent-water, or Ulls-water. The ftiles are 
 all different, and therefore the fenfations they 
 excite will alfo be different ; and the idea that 
 gives pleafure or pain in the higheft degree, wHl 
 be the rule of comparative judgment. It will, 
 however, perhaps be allowed by all, that the 
 greateft vaiicty of fine landfcape is found at 
 this lakej. 
 
 The 
 
 * Mr. Pennant compares ft to the chief of the Scotck 
 lakes, and concludes it to be here what Lomond is there. 
 
 f Not one bulruni or fwampy reed defiles the margin of 
 this imperial lake. No lake has its border fo well afcer- 
 
 tained 
 
THE LAKES. 73 
 
 Thefe flations will furnifti much amufement 
 to thofe who vifit them ; and others may per- 
 haps be occafionally found, equally plcafing. 
 And whoever is delighted with water expedi- 
 tions and entertainments, fuch as rowing, failings 
 fifliing, &c. may enjoy them here in the higheft 
 perfedlion. 
 
 The principal feeders of Windermere-water, 
 are the rivers Rothay and Brathay. They unite 
 their flreams at the weftern corner of the head 
 of the lake, below Clapperfgate, at a place called 
 the Three-foot -brander, and after a Ihort courfe 
 boldly enter the lake. 
 
 The fifli of this lake are char, trout, perch, 
 pike, and eel. Of the char there are two va- 
 rieties, the cafe char, and the gelt char ; the 
 latter is a fifh that did not fpawn the laft feafon, 
 and is on that account more dehcious. 
 
 The greatefl: depth of the lake is, oppofite to 
 Ecclerig-crag, 222 feet. The fall from Newby- 
 bridge, where the current of the lake becomes 
 
 vifible, 
 
 tained, and of fuch eafy accefs. Not one, after Lomond, 
 can boaft of fo vaft a guard of mountains, with fuch variety 
 
 I and diverfity of fliore. 
 
 In navigating the lake upwards from the great ifland, the 
 extremity appears Angularly noble ; its parts great and pic- 
 turefque. The view of the furrounding mountains, from 
 Cove to Kirkfton, is aftonifliing. 
 
74 A GUIDE TO 
 
 vifiblc, to the high water mark of the tide at 
 Low-wood (diftant two miles) is 105 feet. The 
 bottom of the lake is therefore 117 feet below 
 the high water mark of the fea. 
 
 In Bownefs there is nothing fo remarkable as 
 fome remains of painted glafs in the eaft window 
 of the church, that were brought from the ab- 
 bey of Furnefs *. 
 
 From Bownefs to Amblefide, h fix miles, a- 
 long the fide of the lakef. On the top of an 
 
 eminence, 
 
 * " The prefent remains of this window fliew, that it has 
 contained very fine colouring In its former ftate. The arms 
 •f France and England quartered, are well preferved at the 
 top of the window. The defign is a crucifixion, in figures 
 as large as life. By the hands, feet, and parts remaining, it 
 fcems to have been of Angular beauty. On the dexter fide 
 •f the crucifixion is St. George flaying the dragon ; — on the 
 finifter, the Virgin Mary ; — an uncouth aflemblage. Be- 
 neath, are the figures of a knight and his lady kneeling ; 
 before whom, are a group of kneeling monks, over whofe 
 keads are wrote W. Hartley, Tho. Honton, and other names» 
 by the breaking of the glafs rendered not legible." 
 
 Hutchinfori's Excurjioriy page 192. 
 
 f The Low-wood Inn, about two miles ftiort of Amble- 
 fide, will attraft the tourift's notice. No other inn in his route 
 has fo fine a view of a lake, and the natural beauties of which 
 he is in queft. A fmall cannon is kept here to gratify the cu- 
 rious with thofe remarkable reverberations of found, which 
 follow the report of a gun, &c. in thefe Angular vales, and of 
 a general defcription is given in the fubfequent lines. 
 
 The 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 75 
 
 eminence, a little behind Rayrig*, there is a 
 fine view of the northern extremity of the lake* 
 As you proceed along the banks, every ftep has 
 importance, and the profped becomes more and 
 more auguft, exhibiting much variety of Ap- 
 penine grandeur. Langdale-pikes, that guard 
 the pafs into Borrowdale on this fide the Yoak^ 
 and fpirat Hill-bell ; the overhangitig crags of 
 lofty Rainfbarrow ; the broken ridge of Red- 
 fcrees, Fairfield, and Scrubby-crag, (on whofe 
 precipitous front the eagle builds his neft, fe- 
 €ure from the envious (hepherds of the vale) 
 with a chaos of other namelefs mountains, are 
 all in fight. 
 
 Jufi 
 
 ■ T he cannon's roar 
 Burfts from the bofom of the hollow fhore. 
 The dire explofion the whole concave fills, 
 And fhakes the firm foundations of the hills. 
 Now paufing deep, now bellowing from a-far, 
 Now rages near the elemental war: 
 Affrighted Echa opens all her cells. 
 With gather'd ftrength the pofting clamour fwelltj 
 Check'd or impell'd and varying in its courfe. 
 It flumberi, now awakes with double force ; 
 Searching the ftrait, and crooked hill and dale. 
 Sinks in the breeze, or rifes in the gale: 
 Chorus of earth and flcy ! the mountains fing, 
 And heaven's own thunders thro' the valleys ring. 
 
 Killarnej^ 
 
 X. 
 
 * This place is faid to have fomc refemblance of Ferneyi 
 Ten the lake of Geneva, the feat of the late celebrated 
 Voltaire* 
 
76 A GUIDE TO 
 
 Juft at the head of Windermere, and a littk 
 fhort of Amblefide, turn down a bye-road to the 
 left, and fee the veftige of a Uoman ftation. It 
 lies in a meadow, on a level with the lake, and, 
 as fuppofed, was called the Di£tis, where a part 
 of the cohort Nerviorum Diclentium was ila^ 
 tioned. It is placed near the meetings of all 
 the roads from Penrith, Kefwick, Ravenglafs, 
 Furnefs, and Kendal, which it commanded, and 
 was acceffible only on one fide. 
 
 AMBLESIDE*. 
 
 Here nothing at prefent is found of all that 
 Camden mentions of this place. So fwift is time 
 
 in 
 
 * ( Amboglana, Natit. Imper. Diftis, Horflcy) — Though 
 tht author has not mentioned the circumftance, it is fuppofed 
 that the natural beauties of this part of the country are equal 
 in variety and perfeftion to any to be feen in the tour, and 
 that the lover of land/cape in viewing many an undefcribed 
 fcene, would be highly gratified and delighted, But it is 
 judged beft not to defcend to particulars. Let the admirer 
 of rural nature pleafe hinifelf in their d'tfcovery as well as 
 ixaminatton, 
 
 Alfo, if the tourlft love mountainous pfofpefls, he may 
 meet with one, in about a three hours ride from this place, 
 that will not fail to pleafe him. It is on Low-pike, in Rydal- 
 park, from whence may be feen many of the lakes, as Rydal-* 
 water, Grafmere-water, Windermere-water, Blencow-tarn, 
 Eltcr-water, Eflhwaite-water, and Conlfton-water : alfo the 
 Ifle of Walney, Pile of Foudry ; the whole of Dudden, Ul- 
 v^rfton, Lancafter, and Millthrop fands; the mountain In- 
 
 gleboroughj 
 
THE LAKES. 77 
 
 in deftroying the lafl: remains of ancient mag-., 
 nificence ! Roman coins and arms have been 
 frequently found here ; and, in forming the 
 turnpike road through Rydal, an urn was lately 
 taken up, which contained alhes and other Ro-, 
 man remains, and ferves to prove that the traft 
 of the ancient road laid that way. 
 
 In mountainous countries, cafcades, water- 
 falls, and catara£ts, are frequent, but only to be 
 feen in high perfedlion when in full totrent, and 
 that is in wet weather, or foon after it. About 
 
 a mile 
 
 gleborough, and, at an opening between two hills, the 
 hideous rocks in Borrowdale. A further walk of about an 
 hour will give a view of Skiddaw, Helvellyn, UUs-water, the 
 Vale of St. John, and other parts of Cumberland. — This 
 mountainous excuilion over, the following lines may not un- 
 aptly be introduced to the reader's notice.— 
 
 Defcending now, from Other's pure domain^ 
 By Fancy borne to range the nether plain. 
 Behold all-winning novelty difplay'd 
 Along the vale, the mountain, and the fhade; 
 The fccnes but late diminutive, refume 
 Their native grandeur, and their wonted bloom. 
 The woods expand their umbrage o'er the deep. 
 And with ambitious aim afcend the fteep. 
 Stage above ftage, their vig'rous arms invade 
 The tallell cliffs, and wrap them in the fhade. 
 Each in its own pte-emienence regains. 
 The high dominion of the fubjeft plains. 
 Smiling beneath ; fuch fmiles the people wear, 
 liappy in fome patetaal moaarcK's care. 
 
 KilUrney^ 
 
78 A GUIDE TO 
 
 a mile above Amblefide, there is, in a place caU 
 led the Groves, a cafcade, that, though the feafon 
 fhould be dry, merits a vifit, on account of its 
 fmgular beauty, and diftinguiflied features *. It 
 is the mod curious you will fee in the courfe of 
 the tour. The ftream here, though the water 
 be low, is much divided, and broken bv a va- 
 riety of pointed dark rocks ; after this, colleding 
 itfelf into one torrent, it is precipitated with a 
 horrid ruftiing noife into a dark gulph, unfa- 
 thomable to the eye ; and then, after rifing in 
 foam, it is once more dafhed with a thundering 
 noife headlong down a fteep craggy channel, till 
 it joins the Rothay, below Amblefide. The parts 
 of this catarad are noble. The deep dark hue 
 of the rocks, in the gloomy bofom of a narrow 
 glen, juft vifible by day, and the foaming water, 
 tinged with a hue of green, caught from the 
 trees and flirubs that wave over the fall, render 
 this fcene highly awful and pidurefque. 
 
 From Amblefide to Kefwick, fixteen miles of 
 -excellent mountain road, furniflies much amufe- 
 ment to the traveller. If the feafon be rainy, 
 or immediately after rain, all the poflible variety 
 of cafcades, water-falls, and catarads, are feen 
 in this ride ; fome precipitating themfelves from 
 immenfe heights, others leaping and bounding 
 from rock to rock, in foaming torrents, hurling 
 huge fragments of them to the vale, that make 
 
 the 
 
 • Thi» cafcade is commpcly called Stock-gill force. 
 
THE LAKES. 79 
 
 the mountains tremble to their fall. The hoU 
 low noife fwells and dies upon the ear by turns. 
 The fcenes arc aftonifhing, and the fucceffioa 
 of them matchlefs. At Rydal-hall are two caf- 
 cades worthy of notice. One is a little above 
 the houfe, to which Sir Michael le Fleming has 
 made a convenient path, that brings you upon 
 it all at once. This is a mighty torrent tumbling 
 headlong, and uninterruptedly, from an immenfe 
 height of rock, into the rocky bafon below, 
 ftiaking the mountain under you with its fall, 
 and the air above with the rebound. It is a. 
 furprifmg fcene. This gentleman's example in 
 opening a road to the fall, recommends itfelf 
 ftrongly to others of this country, which abounds 
 with fo many noble objeds of curiofity, and 
 which all travellers of the leaft tafte would vifit 
 with pleafure, could they do it with convenience 
 and fafety. 
 
 The other cafcade is a fmall fall of water, feen 
 through the window of the fummer-houfe, in 
 Sir Michael's orchard*. The firft who brought 
 this fweet fcene to light, is the elegant and 
 learned editor of Mr. Gray's letters. And as 
 no one defcribes thefe views better than Mr, 
 Mafon, the reader fhall have the account of it 
 in his own words. " Here nature has performed 
 every thing in little that l)ie ufuaily executes 
 in her larger fcale ; and, on that account, like 
 
 the 
 
 * No. 13. «f tkc vicvfs of tke lakes. 
 
A GUIDE TO 
 
 t^ie miniature painter, feems to have finifhed 
 every part of it in a ftudied manner. Not a 
 l-ittle fragment of a rock thrown into the bafon, 
 not a fmgle ftem of brufh-wood that ftarts from 
 its craggy fides, but has a pifturefque meaning ; 
 and the Httle central current dalhing down a 
 cleft of the darkeft coloured ftone, produces 
 an effeO; of Hght and fhadow beautiful beyond 
 defcription. This little theatrical fcene might 
 be painted as large as the original, on a canvas 
 not bigger than thofe ufually dropped in the 
 opera-houfe*.'* 
 
 Rydal-hall has a grand fituation, at the fee-t 
 ©f ftupendous mountains (opening to the Ibuth, 
 at the entrance of the vale, over a noble fore- 
 ground) and commands a charming view of 
 Windermere-water -j-. The river Rothay winds 
 through the vale, amidft lofty rocks and hanging 
 woods, to join the lake. Ihe road ferpentizes 
 
 upwards 
 
 * There is a cafcade at Nunnery, near Kirkofwald, in 
 Cumberland, much in the fame ftile as this. The accompa- 
 niments are as beautiful, the bafon larger, and the perpen- 
 dicular fall 1 8 feet. But it is only one of a feries of roman- 
 tic fcenes, which- abound at Nunnery, and are equal, if not 
 iuperior in their kind to any we have found in our tour : 
 nor can we forbear to recommend this interefting fpot to the 
 notice of every traveller of tafte : it is fituated about i© 
 toiles from Penrith, on the right of the road to Carlifle. 
 
 f The ftile of this landfcape will be feen in No. 15. af 
 views of the lakers. 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 Si 
 
 upwards, round a bulging rock, fringed with 
 trees, and brings you loon in fight of 
 
 RYDAL-WATER; 
 
 A lake about one mile in length, fpotted with 
 ^ little ifles, and which communicates, by a nar- 
 row channel, with 
 
 GR AS MERE-WATER. 
 The river Rothay is their common outlet. 
 
 Mount Grafmere hill, and from the top, have 
 a. view of as fweet a fcene as travelled eye ever 
 beheld*. Mr. Gray's defcription of this peace- 
 ful, happy vale, will raife a wifh in every reader 
 to fee fo primseval a place. 
 
 " The bofom of the mountains, fpreading 
 here into a broad bafon, difcover in the midft 
 Grafmere-water ; its margin is hollowed into 
 fmall bays, with eminences ; fome of rock, fome 
 of foft turf, that half conceal and vary the fi- 
 gure of the little lake they command : from the 
 fhore, a low promontory pufhes itfelf far into the 
 water, and on it ftands a white village, with a 
 parifli church rifmg in the midft of it : hanging 
 inclofures, corn fields, and meadows, green as 
 an emerald, with their trees, and hedges, and 
 cattle, fill up the whole fpace from the edge of 
 
 G the 
 
 ♦ A little to the left of the road, No. 5. of views of the 
 lakes was taken. 
 
S2 A GUIDE TO 
 
 the water : and juft oppofitc to you is a large 
 larm-boufe, at the bottom of a fteep, fmooth 
 lawn, embofomed in old woods, which cHmb 
 half way up the mountains fides, and difcover 
 above, a broken line of crags, that crown the 
 fcene. Not a fmgle red tile, no flaring gentle- 
 man's houfe, or garden wall, break in upon the 
 repofe of this little unfufpefted paradife ; but all 
 is peace, rufticity, and happy poverty, in its 
 neateft, moil becoming attire*." 
 
 Mr. Gray's defcription is taken from the road 
 defcending from Dunmail-raife. But the more 
 advantageous ftation, to view this romantic vale 
 from, is on the fouth end of the weftern fide. 
 Proceed from Amblefide by Clapperfgate, along 
 the banks of the river Brathay, and at Scale- 
 with-bridge afcend a fteep hill called Loughrig, 
 that leads to Grafmere, and a little behind its 
 fummit you come in fight of the valley and lake, 
 lying in the fweeteft order. Obferve between 
 two cropt afh-trees, in the flone-wall on the right 
 hand, a few fteps leading to a foft green knoll, 
 and from its crown, you have the fined view of 
 the vale, the lake, and their environs f. The ifland 
 is near the centre, unlefs the water be very low. 
 Its margin is graced with a few fcattered trees, 
 and an embowered hut. The church ftands at 
 
 a fmall 
 
 * The whole of Mr. Gray's journal is given in the Ad- 
 denda, Article III. 
 
 f The view of Grafmere, engraved for this woik, is takes 
 , near this place. 
 
THE LAKES. 83 
 
 a fmall diftance from ihe lake, on the fide of 
 the Rothay^ its principal feeder. On each hand 
 fpread cultivated tracls up the fteep fides of 
 furrounding mountains, guarded by Steel-fell, 
 and Seat-fandie, which, advancing towards each 
 other, clofe the view at Dunmail-raife. The 
 broken head of Hehne-crag has a fine effect 
 feen from this point. Defcend the hill; leave 
 the church on the right hand, and you will pre- 
 fently arrive at the great road betvi^een Amble- 
 fide and Kefwick. Here you have Mr. Gray's 
 view, and will fee the difference. Mr. Gray has 
 omitted the ifland in his defcription, which is a 
 principal feature in this fcene. 
 
 This vale of peace is about four miles in cir- 
 cumference, and guarded at the upper end by 
 Helme-crag, a broken pyramidal mountain, that 
 exhibits an immenfe mafs of antediluvian ruins. 
 After this, the road afcends Dunmail-raife, where 
 lie the hiftorical ftones, that perpetuate the name 
 and fall of the laft King of Cumberland, de- 
 feated th ere by the Saxon mojiarch Edmund, 
 who put out the eyes of the two fons of his ad- 
 verfary, and, for his confederating with Leolin, 
 King of Wales, firfl wafted his kingdom, and 
 then gave it to Malcolm, King of Scots, who 
 held it in fee of Edmund, A. D. 944, or 945. 
 The ftones are a heap, that have the appearance 
 of a karn, or barrow. The wall that divides 
 the counties is built over them, which proves 
 their priority of time in that form. 
 
 G 2 From 
 
$4 AGUIDETO 
 
 From Dunmail-raife the -road is an eafy defcene 
 of nine miles, to Kefwick, except on Caitle-rigg, 
 v'hich is foinewhat quick. Leaving the vale ot 
 Grafraere behind, you foon come in fight of 
 
 LEATHES-WATER, 
 
 Called alfo Wythburii, or Thirlemere-water. 
 It begins at the foot of Heivellyn, and (kirts its 
 bafe for the fpace of four miles, encreafed by a 
 variety of paftoral torrents, that pour their filver 
 ftreams down the mountains fides, and then, 
 warbling, join the lake. The range of moun- 
 tains, on the right, are tremendoully great. 
 Helvellyn and Cachidecam are the chief; and, 
 according to the Wythburn Ihepherds, much 
 higher than Skiddaw. It is, however, certain, 
 that thefe mountains retain fnow many weeks 
 after Skiddaw. But that m.ay be owing to the 
 fteepnefs of Skiddaw*s northern fide, and flii- 
 very furface, that attracts more forcibly the folar 
 I ays, than the verdant front of Helvellyn, and fo 
 fooner lofes its winter covering. A thoufand 
 huge rocks hang on Helvellyn's brow, which 
 have been once in motion, and are now feem- 
 ingly prepared to ftart anew. Many have al- 
 ready reached the lake, and are at reft. The 
 road fweeps through them, along the naked 
 margin of the lake. The oppofite fhore is 
 beautified with a variety of crown-topt rocks, 
 Ibme rent, fome wooded, others not, rifing im- 
 mediately from, or hanging towards the water ; 
 
THE L AKES. 8-- 
 
 ®nd all fet oiT with a back-ground of verdant 
 mountains, rifing in the noblelt paftorai ftilc. 
 Its fingular beauty is its being ahuolt inter- 
 fered in the middle by two peninfulas, that are 
 joined by a bridge, in a talte fuitable to the 
 genius of the place, which ferves for an eafy 
 communication among the fhepherds that dwell 
 on the oppofite banks. 
 
 At the fixth mile-poft, from the top of an 
 eminence, on the left, there is a good general 
 view of the lake and vale ; but the rnoit pic- 
 turefque point, is from an eminence behind 
 Dale-head houfe. This end is beautifully de- 
 corated with two fmall iOands, dreffed with 
 wood, and charmingly placed. The lake ter- 
 minates fweetly with a pyramidal rock, wooded 
 to the top; and, oppofite to it, a filver-grey 
 rock, hanging over its bafe, towards the lake, 
 has a fine effed. 
 
 The road after this, leads through the narrow 
 green vale of Legberthwaite, divided into Imall 
 inclofures, peopled with a few cots, ana nobly 
 terminated by the romantic, caftie like rock of 
 St. John. Below this, the vale contracts huo a 
 .deep craggy dell, through which Leathes-water 
 , rolls, till it joins the Greeta, at New-bridge, 
 under the foot of Threlkeld-fell, a gloomy moun- 
 tain of dark dun rocks, that (huts up the view of 
 the fweet fpreading vale of St. John. 
 
 G 3 The 
 
86 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 The road now winds to the left, by Smal- 
 thwaite-biidge, and afcends Naddle-fell, by 
 Caufeway-foot, to Ca!tle-rigg. At the turn of 
 the hi]!, and within about a mile of Kefwick, 
 you come at once in figlit of its glorious vale, 
 with its noble environs, and enchanting 
 fcenes,\vhich, ,when Mr. Gray beheld, it almoil 
 determined him to return to Kefwick again, 
 and repeat his tour. 
 
 *' I left Kefwick, fays he, and took the Am- 
 blciide road, in a gloomy morning, and about 
 two miles [or rather about a mile] from the 
 town, mounted an eminence called Caftle-rigg, 
 and the fun breaking out, difcovered the moft 
 enchanting view I have yet feen, of the whole 
 valley behind me ; the two lakes, the river, the 
 mountains in all their glory ; fo that I had al- 
 moft a mind to have gone back again." Thig 
 is certainly a mofl raviftiing morning view, of 
 the bird's-eye kind. For here we have, feen in 
 all their beauty, a circuit of twenty miles ; two 
 lakes, Derwent and BalTenthwaite, and the ri- 
 ver ferpentizing between them ; the town of 
 Kefwick, and the church of Croflhwaite, in the 
 central points ; an extenfive fertile plain, and 
 all the ftupendous mountains that furround this 
 delicious fpot. 
 
 The druid-temple, delineated in Pennant*s 
 tour, lies about half a mile to the right j but 
 
 will 
 
THELAKES. 87 
 
 will be more conveniently feen from the Penrith 
 road. Defcend to 
 
 KESWICK*. 
 
 This fmall neat town is at prefent renowned 
 for nothing fo much as the lake it Hands near, 
 and which is fometimes called, from the town, 
 the lake of Kefwick, but more properly the lake 
 of Derwent ; and I am inclined to think, and 
 hope to make it appear, that the ancient name 
 of Kefwick is the Derwent town, or the town of 
 Derwent-water. But firft of the lake itfelff. 
 
 The whole extent of the lake is about three 
 miles, from north to fouth ; the form is irre- 
 gular, and its greateft breadth exceeds not a 
 mile and a half. The bed method of viewing 
 this enchanting water, is in a boat, and from 
 the banks. Mr. Gray viewed it from the banks 
 only, and Mr. Mafon, after trying both, prefers 
 Mr. Gray's choice ; and, where the pleafure of 
 rowing and failing is out of the quefticn, it 
 will, in general, be found the bed, on account 
 of the fore-ground, which the boat does not 
 furnifti. Every dimenfion of the lake however 
 appears more extended from its bofom, than 
 G 4 from 
 
 * (Derventione, Raven. Chor.) 
 
 f Some agreeable lines defcriptive of this lake, by Dr. 
 Daltpn, may be feen in the Addenda, Article II. 
 
88 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 from its banks. I fliall therefore point out the 
 favourite ftations round. the lake, that have often 
 been verified. 
 
 STATION I. Cockfuut-hill is remarkable 
 for a general view. It is covered with a motley 
 mixture of young wood ; has an eafy afcent to 
 the top, and from it the lake appears in great 
 beauty. On the floor of a fpacious amphi- 
 theatre of the mofl pi6lurefque mountains ima- 
 ginable, an elegant flieet of water is fpread out 
 before you, Ihining like a mirror, and tranfpa- 
 rent as chryftal; variegated with iflands, adorned 
 with wood, or cloathed with the fweetefl: ver- 
 dure, that rife in the moft pleafmg forms above 
 the watery plain. The effeds all around are 
 amazingly great; but no words can defcribe 
 the furprifing pleafure of this fcene on a fine 
 day, when the fun plays upon the bofom of 
 the lake, and the furrounding mountains are 
 illuminated by his refulgent rays, and their 
 rocky broken fummits invertedly reflected by 
 the furface of the water. 
 
 STATION II. The next celebrated flation 
 is, at a fmall diftance, named Crow-park, which 
 contained, till of late, a grove of oaks of imme- 
 morial growth, whofe fall the bard of Lowes-wa- 
 ter thus bemoans, in humble plaintive numbers j 
 
 — That ancient wood, where beafts did fafely reft, 
 And where the crow long time had built her neft, 
 
 Now 
 
THE LAKES. 89 
 
 Now falls a deftiii'd prey to favage hands, 
 
 "Being doom'd, alas! to vifit diftaiit lands. 
 
 Ah! what avails thy boafted flrcngth at laft ? 
 
 That brav'd the rage of many a fnrious blaft ; 
 
 When now thy body's fpent with many a wound, -j 
 
 Loud groans its laft, and thunders of\ the ground, > 
 
 Whllft hills, and dales, and woods, and rocks refound. J 
 
 This now fhadelefs pafture, is a gentle emi- 
 nence, not too high, on the very margin of the 
 lake, which it commands in all its extent, and 
 looks full into the craggy pafs of Borrowdale, 
 Of this ftation Mr. Gray fpeaks thus. " October 
 4, I walked to Crow-park, now a rough pafture, 
 once a glade of ancient oaks, whofe large roots 
 ftill remain in the ground, but nothing has fprung 
 frorn them. If one fmgle tree had remained, 
 this would have been an unparalleled fpot ; and 
 Smith judged right when he took his print of 
 the lake from hence, for it is a gentle eminence, 
 not too high, on the very margin of the water, 
 and commands it from end to end, looking full 
 into the gorge of Borrowdale. I prefer it even 
 to Cockfliut-hill, which lies befide it, and to 
 which I walked in the afternoon ; it is covered 
 with young trees, both fown and planted, oak, 
 fpruce, Scotch fir, Sec. all which thrive wonder- 
 fully. There is an eafy afcent to the top, and 
 the view far preferable to that on Caftle-hill, be- 
 caufe this is lower and nearer the lake ; for I 
 find all points that are much elevated, fpoil the 
 beauty of the valley, and make its parts, which 
 are not large, look poor and diminutive.'* 
 
 STATION 
 
9© A GUIDE TO 
 
 STATION III. A third ftation, on this fide, 
 will be found by keeping along the line of fhore, 
 till Stable-hills be on the right, and Wallow-crag 
 directly over you on the left ; then, without the 
 gate, on the edge of the common, obferve two 
 huge fragments of ferruginous coloured rock, 
 pitched into the fide of the mountain by their 
 defcent. Here all that is great and pleafmg on 
 the lake, all that is grand and fublime in the 
 environs, lie before you in a beautiful order, 
 and natural difpofition. Looking down upon the 
 water, the four large illands appear diftinftly 
 over the peninfula of Stable-hills. Lord's-ifland, 
 richly drefled in wood. A little to the left, Vi- 
 car*s-ifle rifes in a beautiful and circular form ; 
 Ramps-holme is catched in a line betwixt that 
 and St. Heibert*s-ifland, which traverfes the lake 
 in an oblique direction, and has a fine e£fe£l. 
 Thefe are the four moft confiderable iflands on 
 the lake. Under Foe-park, a round hill com- 
 pletely cloathed in wood*, two fmall iflets inter- 
 rupt 
 
 * As one province of the Guide is, to point out the charac- 
 teriftic features, and dillinguiHied parts of this lake, in or- 
 der to exhibit the beft landfcape pifture to the artift, and to 
 give the moft plcafure and entertainment to the company who 
 make the tour, the author has taken all pofiible care to fecure 
 thefe ends in his choice of ftations. Yet there is one impe- 
 diment attends his defcriptions, which will, in part, prevent 
 their permanency, and that is, the annual fall of timber and 
 coppice wood, and the frequent removal of the pidurefque 
 trees, which take place on the borders of the lakes. Thefe 
 
 accidents 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 91 
 
 rupt the line of (hore, and charm the eye in 
 the palTage from Vicar's-ifle to Ramps-holme, 
 Another illet, above St. Herbert's-ifland, has a 
 fimilar efFed. All idea of river or outlet is here 
 excluded ; but, over a neck of undulated land, 
 finely fcattered with trees, diftant water is juft 
 feen, behind Lord's-ifland. The white church 
 of Ciofthwaite is here vifible, under Skiddaw, 
 which forms the ftrongeft back-ground. The 
 
 oppofitc 
 
 accidents however, as they cannot be prevented, mud be al- 
 lowed for by the candid traveller, where he finds the original 
 differing in thefe refpefls from the account given of it in the 
 book. 
 
 The fall of Crow-park, on Derwent-water, has long been 
 regretted. And the late fall of Lord Egr — m — t's woods 
 has denudated a confiderable part of the weftern border of the 
 lake. Nor is Mr. Gray's beautiful defcription of Foe-park 
 above-mentioned, to be now verified. And alas! the waving 
 woods of Barrow-fide, and Barrow-gill, are no more. 
 
 It is true that the painter, by the creative power of his 
 pencil, can fupply fuch deficiences in the features of his land- 
 fcape ; but the plaftic power of nature, or the carefwl hand of 
 induftry, direfted by tafte and judgment, can only make up 
 fuch lolTes to the vifitors of the lakes. 
 
 Thus much was thought proper to be fubjoined in this 
 place, as an apology, once for all, for the cafual differences 
 of this kind, that may be found between the defcriptions 
 given of thefe lakes in this manual, and their real appearance 
 at any future time. 
 
 [This note is formed from matter of the author's, intended 
 to have been prefixed, by way of advertifement, to the be- 
 ginning of the fecond edition. X,] 
 
92 A GUIDE TO 
 
 oppofite Ihore is bounded by a range of hills, 
 down to the entrance of Newland vale, where 
 Cawfey-pike, and Thornthwaite, rife in Alpine 
 pride, out-done only by their fupreme lord, 
 Skiddaw. Their Ikirts defcend in gentle flopes, 
 and end in cultivated grounds. The whole of 
 the weftern coaft is beautiful beyond what words 
 can exprefs, and the north end exhibits what 
 is moft gentle and pleafing in landfcape. The 
 fouthern extremity of the lake is a violent con- 
 trafl: to all this. Falcon-crag, an immenfe rock, 
 hangs over your head, and upwards, a foreft of 
 broken* pointed rocks, in a femicircular fweep, 
 towering inward, form the moft horrid amphi- 
 theatre that ever eye beheld in the wild forms 
 of convulfed nature. The immediate margin of 
 the lake is, however, a fweet variegated fhore of 
 meadow and pafture, up to the foot of the rocks. 
 Over a border of hedge-row trees, Lowdore- 
 houfe is feen under Hallo w-ft one crag, a floping 
 rock, whofe back is covered with foft vegetation. 
 Beyond it appear the awful craggy rocks that 
 conceal the pafs into Borrowdale, and at their 
 feet a ftripe of verdant meadow, through which 
 the Derwent ferpentizes to the lake in filence. 
 
 The road is along Barrowfide, on the margin 
 of the lake, narrow, yet fafe. It foon enters a 
 glade, through which the lake is fweetly feen by 
 turns. In approaching the ruins of Gowdar- 
 crag, which hangs towering forward, the mind 
 
 recoils 
 
THE LAKES. 93 
 
 recoils at the fight of the huge fragments of 
 crags, piled up on both fides, which are feen 
 through a thicket of rocks and wood. But 
 there is nothing of the danger remaining that 
 Mr. Gray apprehended here; the road being 
 carefully kept open. Proceed by the bridge of 
 one arch, over Park-gill, and another over Bar- 
 row-beck. Here Gowdar-crag prefents itfelf in 
 all its terrible majefty of rock, trimmed with 
 trees that hang from its numerous filfures. A- 
 bove this is feen a towering grey rock, rifing 
 majeftically rude, and near it, Shuttenoer, a fpi- 
 ral rock not lefs in height, hanging more for- 
 ward over its bafe. Betwixt thefe, an awful 
 chafm is formed, through which the waters of 
 Watanlath are hurled. This is the Niagara of 
 the lake, the renowned cataracl: of Lowdore*. 
 To fee this, afcend to an opening in the grove, 
 direftly above the millf. It is the misfortune of 
 this celebrated water-fall to fail entirely, in a dry 
 feafon. The wonderful fcenes, peculiar to this 
 part, continue to the gorge of Borrowdale, | 
 and higher ; and Caflle-crag may be feen, in the 
 centre of the amphitheatre, threatening to block 
 
 up 
 
 * I do not know that the height of this catarad has been 
 afcertained, but when viewing It, the reader may like to have 
 it recalled to his mind, that Carver fays, the fall of Niagara 
 does not exceed 140 feet. 
 
 f The view of Lowdore, engraved for this edition of this 
 work, is taken from the lake. 
 
 $ This fcene is the fubjeft of No. 2, of views of the lakes. 
 
94 AGUIDETO 
 
 up the pafs it once defended. The village of 
 Grange is under it, celebrated as well for its 
 hofpitality to Mr. Gray, as for its fweet roman- 
 tic fite. And to affirm that all that Mr. Gray 
 fays of the young farmer at Grange, is llriaiy 
 appHcable to the inhabitants of thefe mountain- 
 ous regions in general, is but common jufticc 
 done to the memory of repeated favours. 
 
 Hail facred flood ! 
 
 May ftill thy hofpitable fwains be bleft 
 In rural innocence ; thy mountains ftill 
 Teem with the fleecy race ; thy tuneful woods 
 For ever flourifli ; and thy vales look gay. 
 
 /trmflrong on Health. 
 
 On the fummit of Caftle-crag are the remains 
 of a fort; and much freeftone, both red and white, 
 has been quarried out of the ruins. Lately a 
 lead pan with an iron bow was taken out of 
 them, and two maffes of fmelted iron, which 
 probably were from the bloomery at the foot 
 of the Stake in Borrowdale. The fort has moft 
 likely been of Roman origin, to guard the pafs, 
 and fecure the treafure contained in the bofom 
 of thefe mountains. The Saxons, and after 
 them, the Furnefs monks, maintained this fort 
 for the fame purpofe. All Borrowdale was 
 given to the monks of Furnefs, probably by one 
 of the Derwent family, and Adam de Derwent- 
 water gave them free ingrefs and egrefs through 
 all his lands*. The Grange was the place where 
 
 they 
 
 ,* Antiquities of Furnefs^ page lo^. 
 
THE LAKES. 95 
 
 they laid up their grain and their tithe, and alfo 
 the fait they made at the fait fpring, of which 
 •works there are ftill fome vediges remaining, 
 below Grange. The length of the caftellum, 
 from eaft to weft, is about 70 yards j from fouth 
 to north, about 40 yards. 
 
 STATION IV. From the top of Caftle- 
 crag, in Borrowdale, there is a mod aftoniftiing 
 view of the lake and vale of Kefwick, fpread 
 out to the north in the moft pifturefque man- 
 ner. Every bend of the river is diftindly feen, 
 from the pafs of Borrowdale, till it joins the 
 lake ; the lake itfelf, fpotted with iflands ; the 
 moft extraordinary line of ftiore, varied with 
 all the furprifmg accompaniments of rock and 
 wood ; the village of Grange at the foot of the 
 Crag, and the white houfes of Kefwick, with 
 Crofthwaite church at the lower end of the 
 lake ; behind thefe much cultivation, with a 
 beautiful mixture of villages, houfes, cots, and 
 farms, ftanding round the Ikirts of Skiddaw, 
 which rifes in the grandeft manner, from a 
 verdant bafe, and clofes this profped: in the 
 nobleft ftile of nature's true fublime. From 
 the fummit of this rock, the views are fo fm- 
 gularly great, and pleafmg, that they ought 
 never to be omitted. The afcent is by one 
 of the narrow paths, cut in the fide of the 
 mountain, for carrying down the flate that is 
 quarried on its top. 
 
 The 
 
96 AGUIDETO 
 
 The view to the north, or the vale of Kefwick, 
 is already defcribed ; that to the fouth, lies in 
 Borrowdale. The river is feen winding upward 
 from the lake, through the rugged pafs, to where 
 it divides, and embraces a triangular vale, com- 
 pletely cut into inclofures of meadow, enamelled 
 with the fofteft verdure, and fields waving with 
 fruitful crops. This truly fecreted fpot is com- 
 pletely furrounded by the mod horrid, romantic 
 mountains that are in this region of wonders ; 
 and whoever omits this coup d' oeil, hath probably 
 feen nothing equal to it. 
 
 The views here, taken in the glafs, when the 
 fun fhines, are amazingly fine. 
 
 This pi£ture is reverfed from the fummit of 
 Latrigg. 
 
 Mr. Gray was fo much intimidated with the 
 accounts of Borrowdale, that he proceeded no 
 farther than Grange. But no fuch difficulties as 
 he feared are now to be met with. The road 
 into Borrowdale is improved fince his time, at 
 leaft as far as is necelfary for any one to proceed 
 to fee what is curious. It ferpentizes through 
 the pafs above Grange; and, though upon the 
 edge of a precipice that hangs over the river, it 
 is, neverthelefs, fafe. This river brings no mix- 
 ture of mud from the mountains of naked rock, 
 and runs, in a channel of flate and granite, as 
 
 clear 
 
THE LA ICES. 97 
 
 ekar as cryflal. The water of all the lakes in 
 thefe parts is clear; but the Derwent only is 
 pellucid. In it the fmalieft pebble is feen at a 
 great depth nearly as in the open air. 
 
 The rocky fcenes in Borrowdale are moft 
 fantaflic, and the entrance rugged. One rock 
 elbows out, and turns the road diredly againft 
 another. Bowdar-ftone, on t"he right, in^ the 
 very pais, is a mountain of itfelf, and the road 
 winds round its bafe*. Here rock riots ovet 
 rock, and mountain interfering mountain, forms 
 one grand femicircular fweep. Extenfive woods 
 deck their fteep fides ; trees grow from pointed 
 rocks, and rocks appear like trees. Here the 
 Derwent, rapid as the Rhone, rolls his cryftal 
 ftreams through all this labyrinth of embattled 
 obfiacles. Indeed, the fcenes here are fo fub- 
 limely terrible, the alfemblage of magnificent 
 objeds fo ftupendoufly great, and the arrange- 
 ment fo extraordinarily curious, that they muft 
 excite the molt fenfible feelings of wonder and 
 furprife, and at once imprefs the mind with re- 
 verential awe and admiration. 
 
 The mofl: gigantic mountains that form the 
 outline of this tremendous landfcape, and inclofe 
 
 H Borrowdale, 
 
 * This loofe ftone is of a prodigious bulk. It lies like a 
 fliip on its keel — Its length is 62 feet ; its circumference 84. 
 Its folidity is about 23090 feet, and its weight about 1774 
 tons. 
 
gS A GUIDE TO 
 
 Borrowdale, are Eagle-crag, Glaramara, Bull- 
 crag, and Serjeant-crag. On the front of the 
 firft, the bird of Jove has his annual nefl 
 which phe dalefmen are careful to rob, but not 
 without hazard to the aflailant, who is let down 
 from the fummit of this dreadful rock by a rope 
 of twenty fathoms, or more, and who is obliged 
 to defend himfelf from the attacks of the parent 
 birds during his defcent. The devaftation made 
 on the fold, in the breeding feafon, by one 
 eyrie, is computed at a lamb a day, befides the 
 carnage made on the fira naturd. Glaramara 
 is a mountain of perpendicular naked rock^ 
 immenfe in height, and much broken. It ap- 
 pears in the weftern canton, and outline of the 
 pidure. Bull-crag and Serjeant-crag are in the 
 centre, and their rugged fides concealed with 
 hanging woods. 
 
 The road continues good to Rofthwaite, the 
 firft village in this romantic region, where it 
 divides. That on the right leads to the wad- 
 mines, and to Ravenglafs; that on the left, to 
 
 Hawkfhead. 
 
 * Or in more poetical terms. 
 
 Here his dread feat the royal bird hath made. 
 To awe th' inferior fubjefts of the fhade. 
 Secure he built it for a length of days 
 Impervious, but to Phoebus' piercing rays ; 
 His young he trains to eye the folar hght. 
 And foar beyond the fam'd Icarian flight. 
 
T H E L A K E S. 99 
 
 ■Hawk (head. Amidft thefe tremendous fcenes, 
 of rocks and mountains, there is a peculiar cir- 
 eumflance of confolation to the traveller, that 
 diftinguiflies this from other mountainous trads, 
 where the hills are divided by bogs and mofies, 
 often difficult to pafs, which is, that the moHes 
 here, are on the tops of the mountains, and a 
 way over, or round them, is never very difficult 
 to find. The inhabitants of the dales are ferved 
 with turf.fuel from thefe mofles, and the manner 
 of procuring it is very fingular : a man carries 
 on his back a fledge to the top of the mountain, 
 and cohdudls it down the moft awful defcents, 
 by placing himfelf before it to prevent its run- 
 ning amain. For this purpofe a narrow furrow 
 is cut in the mountain's fide, which ferves for 
 a road to dired the fledge, and to pitch the 
 condudor's heel in. — A fledge holds one half 
 of what a horfe can draw on good road. 
 
 The mountains here are feparated by wooded 
 glens, verdant dells, and fertile vales, which, 
 befides forming a pleafing contraft, relieve the 
 imagination with delighted ideas, that the in- 
 habitants of thefe rude regions are far removed 
 from the want of the neceflfaries of life, for them- 
 felves, their herds, and flocks, during the ex- 
 clufion months from the refl: of the community, 
 by the winter fnows. About Rofl:hwaite, in 
 the centre of the dale, fields wave with crops, 
 and meadows are enamelled with flowery grafs. 
 
 H 2 This 
 
A GUIDE TO 
 
 This little delightful Eden is marked with every 
 degree of induftry by the laborious inhabitants, 
 wlio partake of nothing of the ferocity of the 
 country they live in. For they are hofpitable, 
 civil, and communicative, and readily and chear- 
 fully give affiftance to ftrangers who vifit their 
 region. On miffing a trad I was directed to 
 obferve, I have been furprifed by the dale-lander 
 from the top of a rock, waving me back, and 
 offering me a fafe conduct through all the dif- 
 ficult parts, and who blulhed at the mention of 
 a reward. Such is the extenfive influence of 
 virtue in the minds of thofe that are lead ac- 
 quainted with fociety *. 
 
 The Ihepherds only are converfant in the 
 traditional annals of the mountains, and with 
 all the fecrets of the myfterious reign of chaos, 
 and old night; and they only can give proper 
 information concerning their arcana : for others 
 who live almort within the fhadow of thefe moun- 
 tains, are often ignorant of their names. 
 
 Return 
 
 * In parts fo fequeftered from the world, ttie vulgar lan- 
 guage (as well as manners) may be fuppofed to continue very- 
 little altered from what it has been for many ages, and to be 
 what was once generally ufed through the country. And, 
 in order a little to gratify the curiofity of the reader, in Ar- 
 ticle X. of the Addenda may be feen a fpecimen of the 
 common Cumberland dialed; and in article XI. a few re- 
 marks are made refpe6:ing the provincial words current with- 
 in the limits of this tour. 
 
 X. 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 lot 
 
 Return to Kefwick, by Grange, and if the fun 
 fhines in the evening, the difplay of rock on iht 
 oppofite (hore, from Gaflie-rock to Wallow-crag, 
 is amazingly grand. The parts are the fame as 
 in the morning ride, but the difpofitions entirely 
 new. The cryflal furface of the lake relieving 
 waving woods and rocks, backed by the fineft 
 arrangement of lofty mountains, interfering and 
 rifing above each other in great variety of forms, 
 IS a fcene not to be equalled elfe where. The 
 whole ride down the weftern fide is pleafant, 
 though the road is but indifferent. 
 
 Whoever chufes an Alpine journey of a very 
 extraordinary nature, may return through Bor- 
 rowdale to Amblefide, or Hawkfhead. A guide 
 will be neceffary from Rofthwaite, over the Stake 
 of Borrowdale (a deep mountain fo called) to 
 Langdale chapel. This ride is the wildefl that 
 can be imagined, for the fpace of eight miles*. 
 Above the cultivated tract, the dale narrows, 
 H 3 but 
 
 * Every part of nature has fomethi'ng to recommend it to 
 the obfervation of the fiifceplible and ingenious. A walk, 
 or ride, on the fuminits of mountains, will afford a fpecies of 
 ideas, which, though often neither of the fecial nor luxuriant 
 kind, will, neverthelefs, greatly affeft and entertain. The 
 larg:e unvariegated features of thefe hills, their elevation, and 
 even their defolate appearance, are all fources of the fubliine. 
 And, in a publication of this kind, a word or two refpeding 
 their nature and charafteriftic properties, feems as requillte, 
 as on feverai other fubjedts, which are here difcuffed at fome 
 
102 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 but the flurts of the mountains are covered with 
 the fweetefl verdure, and have once vi^aved with 
 aged wood. Many large roots ftill remain, with 
 Ibme fcattered trees. 
 
 Jufl 
 
 The mountains among wi-,ich thefe lakes are fituated, are 
 formed iq, general of livo forts of rock, or ftone. The moft 
 prevailing kind is ^ blue rag^ and, where it appears, the paf- 
 turage which is found among i: is generally inclined to be 
 molfy, lingy, and wet. Thefe particulars, and a number of 
 fwampy patches, or pits of turbary, give the face of thefe 
 mountains a ratherly favage and deprefiing look ; and the in- 
 difpofit ion of their foils readily to imbibe the waters which 
 fall in rains, is the occafion of the number of temporary ca- 
 tarads which channel their fides. 
 
 The other kind of hills confift of I'mejlone ; and though ge- 
 nerally of inferior height, their furface is infinitely more plea- 
 fing. They are perfedly dry, and the bent, or grafs, which 
 cover their glades is peculiarly fine. Where this is not found, 
 the bare rocks take place, and appear in every fantaftic forin, 
 which may be fuppofed to have arlfen from fonrie violent con- 
 culfion, to which the earth has heretofore been fubjedt. But, 
 the nvhitenefs and neatnefs of thefe rocks take off every idea of" 
 horror that might be fuggefted by their bulk, or form. From 
 the nature of the foil, and the number of communicating clefts 
 of the rocks underground, they become foon dry after the 
 heavieft rains ; and though they difcover no ftreams of water 
 iffuing from their fides, a number of the moll pellucid ones 
 imaginable are feen bubbling out among the inclofures round 
 their bafes. On thefe accounts the face of fuch hills always 
 appears Angularly lightfome and chearful. And, on a fine 
 fummer day, there is little doubt but that the curious ftranger 
 would find a walk or ride on their fummits (though confifting 
 of nothing but ftone and turf) attended with uncommon plea- 
 fure. If he be of a poetical turn, he will fee fome of the fe- 
 
 reae& 
 
THE LAKES. i©s 
 
 Jufl: where the road begins to afcend the Stake, 
 are faid to be the remains of a bloomery, clofe 
 by the water-fall on the left ; but no tradition 
 relates at what time it was laft worked. This 
 I could never verify from any vifible remains. 
 
 H 4 The 
 
 renefl; haunts for the fliepherd, that ever fancy formed : if 
 of'a philofophic turn, he may be equally delighted with con- 
 templating feveral evident figns of the Mofaic deluge, and of' 
 the once-fof tjlate of the calcarious matter which is now har- 
 dened into rock. — But our limits will not permit us to pur- 
 fue the fubjcft. 
 
 The greateft quantity of llmeftone hills contained in this 
 lour, lie within the diftrid bounded by Kendal, Willierflack, 
 KcUet, and Hutton-toof. And the moft beautiful of them, 
 as feen at a diftance, are Farlton and Arnfide knots, With lt* 
 flack-fcar, and Warton-crag. The two firft have their high- 
 eft parts, which are nearly rounded, covered in a great mea- 
 fure with fmall fragments of limeftone (called Jlnllonv) which 
 gives them, at all times, an uncommon and beautiful appear- 
 ance. But at the latter end of the year, when the foliage of 
 the copfes on their fides, and the grafs which is interfperied. 
 along their glades near their tops, have gained an olive hue^ 
 no objefts of the kind can appear more elegantly coloured. 
 Farlton-knot, efpecially, at that time of the year, as feen' 
 from Burton church-yard, exhibits a briglitnefs and harmony 
 of colouring, which could little be expe-^^ed to relult iroai a. 
 mixture of grafs, wood, and ftonc. 
 
 A travelling party defirous of being gratified with the 
 pleafiire of one of thefe rides, may have it in perfettior, by- 
 going upon Farlton-knot, from Burton, through Claythrop, 
 or traverfing the heights of Warton-crag ; both of which 
 mountains, befides the particulars here mentioned, afford very 
 cxtenfivc views, including part of the ocean, of a country 
 abounding with agreeable images of niral nature, 
 
io4^ A GUIDE TO 
 
 The mineral was found in the mountain, and the 
 wood ufed in fmelting had covered their fteep 
 fides. The niaffes of iron found on Caftle-crag, 
 were probably fmelted here. Catarafts and wa- 
 ter-falls abound on all fides. A fucceffion of 
 water-falls will meet you in the afcent up the 
 Stake, and others will accompany you down the 
 moft dreadful defcent into Langdale. The fcenes 
 on the Borrowdale fide are in part fylvan and 
 paiforal. On the fide of Langdale entirely rocky. 
 The Stake exhibits a miniature of very bad Al- 
 pine road, acrofs a mountain, juft not perpen- 
 dicular, and about five miles over. The road 
 makes many traverfes fo clofe, that at every flex-' 
 ure it feems almoft to return into itfelf, and fuch 
 as are advancing in different traverfes, appear to 
 go different ways. In defcending the Stake, on 
 the Langdale fide, a cataraft accompanies you 
 on the left, with all the horrors of a precipice. 
 Langdale-pike, called Pike-a-ftickle, and Steel- 
 pike, is an inacceffible pyramidal rock, and com- 
 mands the whole. Here nature feems to have 
 difcharged all her ufelefs, load of matter and rock, 
 when form was firft impreffed on chaos. Pavey- 
 ark is a hanging rock 600 feet in height, and 
 under it is Stickle-tarn, a large bafon of water, 
 formed in the bofom of the rock, and which pours 
 down in a cataraft at Mill-beck. Below this, 
 ^VhitegilLcrag opens to the centre^ a dreadful 
 yawning fiffure. Beyond Langdale chapel the 
 vale becomes more pleafing, and the road is good 
 to Amblefide or Ha\yklhead, by Scalewith-bridgc. 
 
 "Mr. 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 Mr. Gray was much pleafed with an evening 
 view under Crow-park. — " In the evening, fays 
 he, I walked alone down to the lake, by the 
 fide of Crow-park, after fun-fet, and faw the fo- 
 ham colouring of the night draw on, the laft 
 gleam of funfhine fading away on the hill tops, 
 the deep ferene of the waters, and the long Iha- 
 dows of the mountains thrown acrofs them, till 
 they nearly touched the hithermoft Ihore. At 
 a diftance were heard the murmurs of many 
 water-falls not audible in the day time ; 1 wiftied 
 for the moon, but {he was dark to me and filent. 
 
 Hid In her vacant interlunar cave." 
 
 STATION V. This view is feen to much 
 greater advantage from the fide of Swinfide, a 
 little before fun-fet, where the vale and both the 
 lakes are in full view, with the whole extent 
 of rocky ihore of the upper, and the flexures of 
 the lower lake. And when the lad beams of 
 the fun reft on the purple fummit of Skiddaw, 
 and the deep (hade of Wythop's wooded brows 
 is ftretched over the lake, the effed is amaz- 
 ingly great. 
 
 STATION VL From Swinfide, continue 
 the walk by Foe-park. This is a fwcet evening 
 walk, and had the fun ftione out, Mr. Gray 
 would have perceived his miftake in being here 
 in the morning. Oftober 5, he writes, 1 walk, 
 cd through the meadows and corn fields to the 
 
 Derwent, 
 
A GUIDE TO 
 
 Berwent, and, croffing it, went up How-hill ; 
 it looks along BafTenthwaite-water, and fees at 
 the fame time the courfe of the river, and part 
 of the upper lake, with a full view of Skiddaw : 
 then I took my way through Portingfcale village 
 to the park (Foe-park) a hill fo called, covered 
 entirely with wood ; it is all a mafs of crumbling 
 flate; palfed round its foot, between the trees 
 and the edge of the water, and came to a pen- 
 infula, that juts out into the lake, and look* 
 along it both ways ; in front rifes Wallow-crag 
 and Caftle-hill, the town, the road to Penrith, 
 Skiddaw, and Saddle-back. — After dinner walk- 
 cd up Penrith road, &c." 
 
 STATION VII. Another feleft ftation for 
 a morning view is on Latrigg, a foft green hill, 
 that interpofes between the town and Skiddaw. 
 The afcent is by Monk's-hall, leaving Ormath- 
 waite on the left, and following the mountain 
 road about due eaft, till you approach the gate 
 in the ftone-wall inclofure ; then flant the hill 
 to the right, looking toward? Kefwick, till you 
 gain the brow of the hill, which exhibits a fine 
 terrace of verdant turf, as fmooth as velvet. 
 Below you rolls the Greeta, and, in its courfe, 
 vifits the town, before it joins the Derwent, 
 where it ilTues from the lake, and then their 
 united flreams are feen meandering through thtf 
 vale, till they meet the floods of BalTenthwaite, 
 wnder the verdant fkirts of Wythop brows. 
 
 The 
 
THE LAKES. ^ ipf 
 
 Tlie profpe£t to the fouth, is the Tcverfe of 
 that from Caftle-crag. The view is full into the 
 rocky jaws of Borrowdale, through which the 
 Derwent is feen pouring his cryftal ftream, and, 
 after winding through fome verdant meadows, 
 which fkirt the rocky coaft, joining the lake at 
 Lowdore. The lake itfelf is feen in its full extent, 
 on all fides, with variety of fhore, and its bofom 
 fpotted with diverfity of iflands. Caftle-crag, in 
 Borrowdale, (lands firft of all the foreft of em- 
 battled rocks, whofe forked heads, reared to the 
 (ky, {hine in the fun like fpears of burnifhed 
 fteel. In the rear, Langdale-pike, advancing to 
 the clouds his cone-hke head, overlooks them 
 all. What charms the eye in wandering over 
 the vale, is, that not one ftraight line offends. 
 The roads all ferpentize round the mountains, 
 and the hedges wave with the inclofures. Every 
 thing is thrown into fome path of beatity, or 
 agreeable line of nature. But to defcribe every 
 pifturefque view that this region of landfcape 
 prefents, would be an endlefs labour. And, did 
 langiiage furnifti expreffion to convey ideas of 
 the inexhauftible variety that is found in the 
 many grand conftituent objeds of thefe magni- 
 ficent fcenes, the imagination would be fatigued 
 with the detail, and defcription weakened by 
 redundancy. It is more pleafmg to fpeculative 
 curiofity to difcover of itfelf the differences a- 
 mong fuch fcenes as approach the neareft in 
 likenefs, and the agreement between fuch as, 
 
 appear 
 
A GUIDE TO 
 
 appear mod difcordant, than to be informed of 
 them. This fport of fancy, and exercife of tafle, 
 arifing from felf-information, has the greatefl cf- 
 fe£t on the mind, and the province of the Guide 
 is chiefly to point out the ftation, and leave to 
 the company the enjoyment of reflexion, and 
 the pleafures of the imagination. 
 
 Return to the gate, and en|cr the inclofure. 
 Proceed, as foon as you can, to the right, having 
 the wall at fome diflance, till you arrive at the 
 brink of a green precipice ; there you will be 
 entertained with the noife of the rapid Greeta, 
 (roaring through a craggy channel) that in a run 
 of two miles exhibits an uncommon appearance, 
 for ming twelve or more of the fineft bends and 
 Terpentine curves that ever fancy penciled. The 
 point for viewing this uncommon fcene, is di- 
 redly above the bridge, which hangs gracefully 
 over the river. Ihe town of Kefwick appears 
 no where to greater advantage than from this 
 ftation. Helvellyn, in front, overlooks a vaft 
 range of varied hills, whofe rocky fides are rent 
 with many filTures, the paths of fo many rills and 
 roaring catarafts, that echo through the vales, 
 and fwell the general torrent. To the eaft, 
 Crofs-fell is difcerned like a cloud of blue mill, 
 hanging over the horizon. In the middle fpace, 
 Mell-fell, a green pyramidal hill, is a fingular 
 figure. The eye wandering over Caftle-rigg will 
 difcover the druid-temple on the fouthern fide 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 of the Penrith road. Return to the path that 
 leads down the ridge of the hill to the eaft, 
 and, arrived at the gate that opens into a crofs 
 road, defcend to the right, along the precipitous 
 bank of a brawling brook, Glenderaterra-beck, 
 that is heard tumbhng from the mountain, and 
 concealed by the woods that hang on its fteep 
 banks. In the courfe of the defcent, remark 
 Threlkeld-pike, browned with ftorms, and rent 
 by a dreadful wedge-like rock, that tends to the 
 centre. There are many paftoral cots, and ru- 
 ral feats, fcattered round the cultivated Ikirts of 
 this fide of the mountains of Skiddaw and Sad- 
 dle-back, fweetly placed, and piaurefque. The 
 northern fide is lefs hofpitable, being more pre- 
 cipitous, and much concealed in fhade. From 
 the bridge the road leads to Threlkeld, and falls 
 into the Penrith road, four miles from Kefwick. 
 The laft mentioned brook, Glenderaterra, di- 
 vides Skiddaw from Saddle-back, called here 
 Threlkeld-fell. From the front of Mr. Wren-s 
 houfe, the eye will be delighted with the vale of 
 St. John, fweetly fpread out in rural beauty be- 
 tween two ridges of hills, Lothwaite and Nad- 
 dle-fells, which, in appearance, join together juft 
 behind the Caftle-rocks. Thefe, in the centre 
 point of view, have the fhew of magnificent ru- 
 ins. A river is feen on both fides of the vale, 
 lengthening its courfe in meanders, till it meets 
 Threlkeld-water, or Glenderamackin-beck, at 
 New-bridffe, where it takes the name of Greeta. 
 * This 
 
110 A GUIDE TO 
 
 This pidure is improved at the brow of the hill, 
 on the weftern fide of the houfe. Here the' 
 Greeta is feen from the bridge, running under 
 the hill where you ftand, and on the right, com- 
 ing forth in a fine deep-channeled ftream, be- 
 tween fteep wooded banks. In a field on the 
 left, near the fecond mile-poft, ftands confpicu- 
 ous, the above mentioned wide circus of rude 
 ftones ; the awful monument of the barbarous 
 fuperftition which enflaved the minds of ancient 
 times. Mr. Pennant has in his polfeffion an ex- 
 cellent drawing of thefe druidical remains. 
 
 STATION VIII. Another ftation remains, 
 and which ought to be an evening one, in the 
 vicarage garden. Mr. Gray took it in his glafs 
 from the horfing-block, and fpeaks of it thus : 
 
 From hence I got to the parfonage, a little 
 before fun-fet, and faw in my glafs a pidure, 
 that if I could tranfmit to you, and fix it in all the 
 foftnefs of its living colours, would fairly fell for 
 a thoufand pounds. This is the fweeteft fcene 
 I can yet difcover in point of paftoral beauty j 
 the reft are in a fublimer ftile." 
 
 ^ The leading parts of this pidure, are, over a 
 rich cultivated fore-ground, the town of Kefwick 
 feen under a hill, divided by grafs inclofures. 
 Its fummits crowned with wood. More to the 
 caft, Caftle-rigg is fweetly laid out, and over it 
 iweeps ill curves the road to Amblefide. Behind 
 
 that. 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 1 1 1 
 
 that, are I'een, the range of vaft mountains dc- 
 fcending from Helvellyn. On the weftern fide, 
 the chaos of mountains heaped upon mountains, 
 that fecrete the vale of Newland, make their 
 appearance, and over them Cawfey-pike prefides. 
 Leaving thefe, the eye meets a well-wooded hill 
 on the margin of the lake, fliining in all the 
 beauties of foliage, fet off with every advantage 
 of form. Next, a noble expanfe of water, bro- 
 ken juft in the centre by a large ifland drefled in 
 wood ; another cultivated and fringed with trees^ 
 and a third with a hut upon it, ftript of its orna- 
 mental trees, by the unfeeling hand of avarice*. 
 On the eaftern fide, a bold ftiore, fteep, and 
 wooded to the water's edge, is perceived, and 
 above thefe, rife daring rocks in every horrid 
 fliape. Alfo a ft range mixture of wood and 
 rock fucceed one another to the fouthern ex- 
 tremity of the lake, where the grand pyramidal 
 Caftle-crag commands the whole. The weftern 
 Ihore is indented with wooded promontories, 
 down to Foe-park, the hill firft defcribed on the 
 lower margin of the lake, and the mountains all 
 around, rife immediately from its edge, but thofe 
 that form the outline to the fouth, are very much 
 
 broken, and hence more pidurefque. Thefe 
 
 are the parts of the fcene Mr. Gray fays are the 
 
 fweeteft 
 
 • This third is Vicai's-ifland, which if our author had feen 
 fince it was purchafed, built, and improved, by J. Pockling- 
 ton, Efq. he would have defcribed it with pleafure, as it is one 
 •f the moft beautiful fpots ia ikt wkole ««oapa& of tike t«ar- 
 
112 A G UIDE TO 
 
 fweeteft he ever faw in point of pailoral beauty. 
 But whoever takes this view from Ormathwaite, 
 in a field on the weftcrn fide of the houfe, will 
 be convinced of Mr. Gray's lofs in want of in- 
 formation. For the very fpot he flood upon 
 IS there in the centre of the fore-ground, and 
 makes a principal objed in the paftorai pait of 
 the pidure he praifes fo highly. 
 
 Sailing round the lake opens a new province 
 for landfcape. Mr. Gray negleded it, and Mr. 
 Mafon thinks he judged well. Meffrs. Young 
 and Pennant tried it, and admired it. Dr. Brown 
 prefers failing, and advifes landing on every pro- 
 montory, and anchoring in every bay*. The 
 tranfparent beauty of the lake is only feen in 
 the boat, and it is very furprifing. The bottom 
 refembles a mofaic pavement of party.^coloured 
 ftone. The fragments of fpar at the depth of 
 feven yards, either fliine like diamonds, or glit- 
 ter in diverfity of colour j and fuch is the purity 
 of the water, that no mud or ooze defiles its 
 bottom. Mr. Pennant navigated the lake, and 
 as his defcription is more comprefTed than any 
 other, and gives a diftind idea of its appearances, 
 I fhall here fubjoin it. 
 
 " The views on every fide are very different ; 
 here all the poffible variety of Alpine fcenery is 
 
 exhibited, 
 
 ^ * The whole of Dr. Brown's defcrJptive letter is inferted 
 4» the Addenda, Article I.- 
 
THE LAKES. 113 
 
 exhibited, with the horror of precipice, broken 
 crag, overhanging rock, or infiilated pyramidal 
 hills, contrafted with others whofe fmooth and 
 verdant fides, fwelHng into immenfe serial heights, 
 at once pleafe and furprife the eye. 
 
 " The two extremities of the lake afford mofl 
 difcordant profpe6ts : the fouthern is a compo- 
 fition of all that is horrible ; an immenfe chafm 
 opens, whofe entrance is divided by a rude conic 
 hill, once topt with a caftle, the habitation of the 
 tyrant of the rocks ; beyond, a feries of broken 
 mountainous crags, now patched with fnow, foar 
 one above the other, overfhadowing the dark 
 winding deep of Borrowdale. In the receffes 
 are lodged variety of minerals, &c. 
 
 " But the oppofite, or northern view, is in all 
 refpefts a flrong and beautiful contraft. Skiddaw 
 fhews its vaft bafe, and, bounding all that part 
 of the vale, rifes gently to a height that finks 
 the neighbouring hills ; opens a pleafing front, 
 fmooth and verdant, fmiling over the country 
 like a gentle generous lord, while the fells of 
 Borrowdale frown on it like a hardened tyrant. 
 
 " Each boundary of the lake feems to take 
 part with the extremities, and emulates their 
 appearance : the fouthern varies in rocks of dif- 
 ferent forms, from the tremendous precipice of 
 Lady*s-leap, the broken front of Falcon's-nefl, to 
 the more diftant concave curvature of Lowdore, 
 
 I ail 
 
114 A GUIDE TO 
 
 an extent of precipitous rock, with trees ve- 
 getating from their numerous filTures, and the 
 foam of a cataradl precipitating amidft. 
 
 " The entrance into Borrowdale divides the 
 fcene, and the northern fide alters into milder 
 forms ; a fait fpring, once the property of the 
 monks of Furnefs, triikles along the iliore ; hills 
 (the refort of (hepherds) with downy fronts, and 
 lofty fumraits, fucceed, with wood cloathing their 
 bafes to the water's edge. 
 
 " Not far from hence the environs appear to 
 the navigator of the lake to the greateft advan- 
 tage, for, on every fide mountains clofe the pro- 
 fpect, and form an amphitheatre almoft matchlefs. 
 
 " The ifles that decorate this water are finely 
 difpofed, and very difl:in£l ; rife with gentle and 
 regular curvatures above the furface, confift of 
 verdant turf, or are planted with various trees. 
 The principal is Lord's-ifland, above five acres, 
 where the RatclifF family had fomc time its re- 
 fidence, and, from this lake, took the title of 
 Derwent-water. 
 
 " St. Herbert*s-ifle was noted for the refidence 
 of that faint, the bofom friend of St. Cuthbert, 
 who wilhed, and obtained his defire of departing 
 this fife on the fame day, hour, and minute, with 
 that holy man*. " The 
 
 * *' In the regifter of Bifhop Appleby, in the year 1374* 
 there is an indulgence of forty days to every of the inhabi- 
 
 tantft 
 
THE LAKES. 115 
 
 ''^ The water of Derwent-water is fubjeft to 
 violent agitations, and often without any appa- 
 rent caufe, as was the cafe this day ; the weather 
 was calm, yet the waves ran a great height, and 
 the boat was tolTed violently with what is called 
 2. bottom wind." 
 
 Dr. Brown recommends as a conclufion of the 
 tour of this lake, that it be viewed by moon-light. 
 He fays, " A walk by ftill moon-light (at which 
 time the diftant water-falls are heard in all the 
 variety of found) among thefe enchanting dales, 
 opens a fcene of fuch delicate beauty, repofe, 
 and folemnity, as exceeds all defcription." 
 
 An expedition of this kind depends much upon 
 the choice of time in making the tour. It is bet- 
 ter a little before, than after the full moon. If 
 the evening be ftill, the voices of the water-falls 
 are re-echoed from every rock and cavern, in a 
 manner truly fmgular and pleafmg. The fetting 
 fun tips the mountain's top with the fofteft reful- 
 gence ; and the rifmg moon with her filver rays 
 juft continues in vifion the glories of its bafe. 
 The furface of the lake, that in the day reflects 
 the azure Iky, the deep green woods, or hoar- 
 coloured rocks, is now a fable mirror ftudded 
 I 2 with 
 
 tants of the parifh of Crofthwaite, that fhoiild attend the 
 •vicar to St Herbert's ifland on the 13th of April, yearly, 
 and there to celebrate mafs in memory of St. Herbert." 
 
 Nicol/on's Cumberlatid, page §6. 
 
A GUIDE TO 
 
 with the re{le(5led gems of the flarry heavens ; 3 
 plain on which are pencilled by the moon, the 
 faint outlines and lhadows of the hills behind 
 which file labours. Ail now is in faint light, 
 grave (hade, or folemn darknefs, which appa- 
 rently increafes the vaftnefs of the objects, and 
 enwraps them in a folemn horror, that ftrikes 
 the mind of the beholder with reverential awe, 
 and pleafmg melancholy*. 
 
 The 
 
 * Here the reader^s mind may be fitly prepared for the 
 perufal of the following beautiful night-piece of Dr. Brown, 
 preferred to us by Mr. Cumbeiland, in the dedication of his 
 Ode to the Sun. 
 
 Now funk the fun, now twilight funk, and night 
 Rode in her zenith ; not a paffing breeze 
 Sigh'd to the grove, which in the midnight air 
 Stood motionlefs, and in the peaceful floods 
 Inverted hung : for now the billow flept 
 Along the fliore, nor heav'd the deep, but fpread 
 A fhining mirror to the moon's pale orb, 
 Which, dim and waitiing, o'er the fliadowy cliffs. 
 The folemn woods, and fpiry mountain tops, 
 Her glimmering faintnefs threw : now every eye,, 
 Opprefb'd with toil, was drown'd in deep repofe j 
 Save that the unfeen flicpherd in his watch, 
 Prop'd on his crook, flood lilt'ning by the fold. 
 And gaz'd the flarry vault and pendant moon; 
 Nor voice nor found broke on the deep ferene. 
 But the foft murmur of fwift-gufhing rills, 
 Forth-ilTiiing from the mountain's dittant fteep, 
 (Unheard till now, and now fcarce heard) proclaimed 
 All things at reft, and imag'd the ftill voice 
 ' Of quiet whifpering to the ear of night. 
 
 X. 
 
THE LAKE S» 117 
 
 *rhe charafteriftic of this lake is that it re- 
 tains its form viewed from any point, and never 
 affumes the appearance of a river*. 
 
 The fifli here are trout, perch, pike, and cel. 
 
 I 3 BASSEN'. 
 
 * The followiog flcetch of the appearance of this amphi- 
 theatre, in a hard froft, appeared in the Cumberland Pacquet, 
 February lo, 1784. 
 
 " Derwent lake has been frozen over for feveral days, and 
 ^aiantities of timber have been drawn acrofs it by horfes. Tlie 
 appearance of this celebrated piece of water and the furround- 
 ing mountains, is defer ibed by numbers who have feen it, as 
 the mdfl delightful of any profpeft that can be conceived. 
 The four iflandb have been vifited by crouds of people, who 
 agree that the whole fcene is at prefent more awfully grand 
 and inchanting, than in the height of fummcr. The fummits 
 and fides of the mountains, at prefent clad with fnow, the 
 icicles hanging from the different cliffs, and the glaffy lur- 
 face of the lake, all thefe glittering in the fun, fill the eye 
 witli fuch an affemblage of natural magnificence and beauty 
 as beggars all defcription*" 
 
 The following pafTage may be worth reading here, taken 
 from a defer iption of the curiofities in the Peak of Derby- 
 fliire, in the London Magazine, for Odlober, 1 778. 
 
 ** Long has been the contention between the gentlemen of 
 Derbyfhire and Cumberland, refpeding Dovedale and Kef- 
 wick, each claiming the fuperioricy of natural beauties, and 
 Dr. Brown has by many been thought to carry the difpute 
 in favour of Kefwick. I have carefully furveyed both, with* 
 out being a native of either country ; and if I might prefuma 
 to be any judge of the matter, I fhould compare Dovedale 
 to the foft and delicate maiden, and Jiefwick to the bol4 
 and iluidy Briton." 
 
ii8 A GUIDE TO 
 
 BASSENTHWAITE-WATER. 
 
 Having feeri the glory of Kefwick, the beauties- 
 of the lake, and wonders of the environs, there 
 remains a pleafant ride to Oufc-bridge, in order 
 to vifit the lake of Bafienthwaite. Meflrs. Gray 
 and Pennant took the ride, but did not fee the 
 beauties of the lake, either for want of time or 
 proper information. 
 
 Mr. Pennant fays, " Pafs along the vale of 
 Kefwick, and keep above BalTenthwaite-water, 
 at a fmall cultivated diftance from ir : this lake is 
 a fine expanfe of four miles in length, bounded 
 on one fide by high hills, wooded in many places 
 to their bottoms ; on the other fide, by field?, 
 and the fkirts of Skiddaw. 
 
 From Mr. Spedding*s, of Armathwaite, at 
 the low extremity of the lake, you have a fine 
 view of the whole." 
 
 Mr. Gray allowed hlmfelf more time for par- 
 ticulars. " Odober 6, he fays, went in a chaife, 
 eight miles, along the eaft fide of BalTenthwaite- 
 water, to Oufe -bridge, pronounced Ews-bridge, 
 it runs diredly along the foot of Skiddaw. Op- 
 pofite to Wythop-brows, cloathed to the top with 
 wood, a very beautiful view opens down to the 
 lake, which is narrower and longer than that 
 of Kefwick, lefs broken into bays, and without 
 
 iilands ^ 
 
THE LAKES. 119 
 
 iflands ; at the foot of it, a few paces from the 
 brink, gently floping upwards, ftands Armath- 
 waite, in a thick grove of Scotch firs, com- 
 manding a noble view diredVly up the lake. At 
 a fmall diftance behind this, a ridge of cuUiv^ited 
 hills, on which, according to the Ketwick pro- 
 verb, ihefun always Jhines ; the inhabitants here, 
 on the contrary, call the vale of Derwent-water, 
 the DeviVs chamberpot, and pronounce the name 
 of Skiddaw-fell, which terminates here, with a 
 fort of terror and averfion, Armathwaite-houfe 
 is a modern fabrick, not large, and built of dark 
 red ftone.'* 
 
 But the fmgular beauties of this lake remain 
 yet unnoticed, viz. the grand finuofity of three 
 noble bays. 
 
 STATION I. From Armathwaite, the lower 
 bay is in full difplay ; a fine expanfe of water, 
 fpreading itfelf both ways, behind a circular pen- 
 infula (Catlle-how) that fwells in the middle, and 
 is crowned with wood, in former times it has 
 been furrounded with water, by the lake on one 
 fide, and the affiftance of a b'rook that defcends 
 frotn E nbleton, on the other. The acceflible 
 parts have been defended by trenches one above 
 another. The upper part muft have been occu- 
 pied with building, as the veltiges of ruins are 
 vifible; and, like other fuch places in this region, 
 they were probably fecured by the firfl inha- 
 1 4 bitants* 
 
I20 A GUIDE TO 
 
 bitants, as places of difficult accefs, and of eafy 
 defence. From the bottom of the bay, fome 
 waving inclofures rife to the fide of a green 
 hill, and fome fcattered houfcs are feen at the 
 upper end of a fine flope of inclofures. The 
 banks of the lake are fringed with trees, and 
 under them the cryftal water is caught in a 
 -pleafmg manner. At the north-w^ft corner the 
 Derwent iffues from the lake, and is fpanned by 
 a handfome flone-bridge of three arches. The 
 whole weftern boundary is the noble range of 
 .wooded hills, called Wythop-brows. On the 
 eaflern fhore the lake retires behind a peninfula, 
 that rudies far into the water, and on its extreme 
 point, a folitary oak, waving to every wind, is 
 moft pifturefque. This is Scarenefs. The coaft 
 upward is a fine cultivated trad to the fkirts of 
 Skiddaw. Far to the fouth, Wallow-crag, with 
 all the range of rock, and broken craggy moun- 
 tains in Borrowdale, are feen in fine perfpeftive ; 
 and on their outline, the fpiral point of Langdale- 
 pike appears blue as glafs. I he deep green 
 woods of Foe-park, and the golden front of 
 Swmfide, form a pleafing termination. 
 
 STATION n. Return to the road by Scare- 
 nefs, and defcend from the houfe to the oak 
 tree, on the extremity of the promontory. The 
 lake is here narroweft, but immediately fpread- 
 ing itfelf on both hands, forms two femicircular 
 bays. That on the right is a mile acrofs j the 
 
 bay 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 bay on the left is fmaller ; the. (hore on both 
 fides is finely variegated with low wood and 
 fcattered buflies, as is more efpecially the pen- 
 infula itfelf. The upper bay is perfedly circular, 
 and finely wooded. In front, Wythop-brows 
 rife fwift from the water's edge. The extremity 
 of fome inclofures are piclurefquely feen juft over 
 the wood, with part of a cottage. The village of 
 Wythop lies behind it in an serial fite. A grafs 
 inclofure, fcooped in the bofom of the hanging 
 wood, and under it a cot, on the very brink 
 of the lake, (lands fweetly The views down- 
 ward are fine ; the banks high and woody to 
 the bridge, of which two arches are in fight. 
 Behind it a white houfe is char ningly placed. 
 More to the right, at the head of a gentle flope, 
 in the very centre of view, ftands Arraathwaite, 
 winged with groves ; and behind it, at a fmall 
 djftance, are deep hanging woods, and over 
 them, fpreading tar to the right and left, a great 
 reach of cultivated grounds. This termination 
 is rich, and pleafing to the eye. The view to 
 the fouth, is, as on the upper lake, much foft- 
 ened by diftance. In the afternoon, if the fun 
 fliines, the appearance of the filver-grey rocks, 
 gliftening through the green woods that hang 
 on their fiffures, is moft elegant. Behind, an 
 appendix of Skiddaw rifes in rude form ; and 
 over it this chief of mountains frowns in Alpine 
 majefty. — This view is alfo well feen from th^ 
 houfe of Scarenefs. 
 
 STATION 
 
I 22 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 STATION III. The next remarkable pro- 
 montory is Bradnefs, a round green hill, that, 
 fpreading itfelf into the lake, forms a bay, with 
 Bownefs to the fouth. The bed general view 
 of the lake is from the crown of this hill, behind 
 the farm houfe. Here you look over three 
 bays finely formed. Nothing can be imagined 
 more elegant than the finuofity of this fide, con- 
 trailed with the fteep fhore and lofty woods of 
 the oppofite. The view upwards is not lefs 
 charming, being indented and wooded to the 
 water's edge. 
 
 If thefe views are taken beginning with Brad- 
 nefs, then, from Scarenefs, take the road to Baf- 
 fenthwaite-halls, (a few houfes fo called) and 
 from the road on the north fide of the village, 
 called Rakes, you have a very fine view of a rich 
 cultivated tra6t, ftretching along the banks of 
 the lake, and fpreading itfelf upwards to the 
 fkirts of Skiddaw. The elevation is fuch, that 
 every objeft is feen completely, and every beauty 
 diftin£tly marked. The lake appears in its full 
 magnitude, fliaded by a bold wooded Ihore on 
 the weft, and graced by a fweet fpreading vale 
 on the eaft, that terminates in a bold ftile un- 
 der the furrounding mountains. The floping 
 ground to the bridge is charming, and the far 
 extended vales of Embleton and Ifel lie in fine 
 perfpedlive. The river Derwent has his winding 
 €ourfe through the latter. 
 
 ANTiqui. 
 
 1 
 
THE LAKES. 123 
 
 ANTIQUITIES. Caer-mof is about two 
 miles further to the north, on the great road 
 to old Cariifie and Wit^ton. It is a green high 
 crowned hill, and on its Ikirt, juft by the road 
 fide, are the manifeft veftiges of a fquare en- 
 campment, inclofed with a double fofs, extending 
 from eaft to weft, 1 20 paces, and from fouth to 
 north, 100 paces. It is fubdivided into feveral 
 cantonments, and the road from ivefwick to old 
 Carlifle has crofled it at right angles. Part of 
 the cig^er is vifible where it iflues from the north 
 fide of the camp, till where it falls in with rhe 
 line of the prefent road. It is diftant about ten 
 miles from Refwick, and as much from old Car- 
 lifle, and is about two miles weft of Ireby. 
 
 Camden propofes Ireby for the Arbeia of the 
 Romans, where the Bercarii Tigrinenfes were gar- 
 rifoned, but advances nothing in favour of his 
 opinion. The fituation is fuch as the Romans 
 never made choice of for a camp or garrifon, 
 and there remain no veftiges of either. By its 
 being in a deep glen, among furrounding hills, 
 where there is no pafs to guard, or country to 
 prote£t, a body of men could be of no ufe. On 
 the northern extremity of the faid hill of Caer- 
 mot, are the remains of a beacon, and near it the 
 veftiges of a fquare encampment, inclofed with a 
 fofs and rampart of 60 feet by 70. This camp 
 is in full view of Blatumbulgii (Bowncfs) and 
 Olenacum (old Carlifle and, commanding the 
 
 whole 
 
A GUIDE TO 
 
 whole extent of the Solway-frith, would receive 
 the firfl: notice from any frontier ftation, where 
 the Caledonians might make an attempt to crofs 
 the frith, or had aftually broke in upon the 
 province ; and notice of this might be commu- 
 nicated by the beacon on Caer-mot to the gar- 
 rifon at Kefwick, by the watch on Caftle-crag in 
 Borrowdale. The garrifon at Kefwick would 
 have the care of the beacon on the top of Skid- 
 daw, the mountain being of the eafieft accefs 
 on that fide. By this means the alarm would 
 foon become general, and the invaders be either 
 terrified into flight, or elfe the whole country 
 quickly in arms to oppofe them. 
 
 Whether thefe camps are the Arbeia I pretend 
 not to fay, but that they were of ufe to the Ro- 
 mans, is evident ; and what the Britons thought 
 of them, is recorded in the name they have 
 conferred on the hill where they are fituated. 
 
 The larger camp has no advantage of fite, 
 and is but ill fupplied with water. The ground 
 IS of a fpungy nature, and retains wet long, and 
 therefore could only be occupied in the fummer 
 months. They feem to have the fame relation to 
 old Carlifle and Kefwick, as the camp at Whit- 
 barrow has to old Penrith and Kefwick. 
 
 From Caer-mot defcend to Oufe-bridge, and 
 return to Kefwick up the weftern fide of the lake. 
 
 Every 
 
THE LAKES. 12^ 
 
 Every lover of landfcape ftiould take this ride ia 
 the afternoon ; and if the fun (hines, it is ex^ 
 ceedingly pleafant. The road branches off from 
 the great road to Cockermouth' a Httle below the 
 bridge, and leads through the wood, and round 
 Caftle-how- In fonie places it rifes above the lake 
 a confiderable height, and the water is agreeably 
 feen at intervals through a fcreen of low wood, 
 that decks its banks. Then the road defcends to 
 the level of the water, and prefents you whh a 
 variety of furprifing views in different ftiles, that 
 fliew themfelves in an agreeable fucceffion, as 
 the eye wanders in amazement along the lake. 
 
 STATION IV. At Beck-wythop the lake 
 fpreads out to a great expanfe of water, and its 
 outlet is concealed by Caftle-how. The imme- 
 diate fhore is lined with rocks, that range along 
 banks completely dreffed in low wood, and over 
 them, Wythop-brows rife almoft perpendicular. 
 The oppofite Ihore is much variegated, and 
 deeply embayed by the bold promontories of 
 Scarenefsj Bownefs, and Bradnefs. Juft oppofite 
 to you, a little removed from the margin of the 
 lake, and under a range of wood, fee the folitary 
 church of Baffenthwaite. Its back-ground is 
 gloomy Ullock, a defcendant hill of parent Skid^ 
 daw, robed in purple heath, trimmed with foft 
 verdure. The whole cultivated tra£t between 
 the mountains and the lake, is feen here in all 
 its beauty, and Skidd aw appears no where of 
 
 fuch 
 
126 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 fuch majeftic height as from this point, being 
 feemingiy magnified by the accompaniments of 
 the iefler hills that furround its bafe. 
 
 Over the northern extremity of this expanfc 
 of water, the ground rifes in an eafy flope, and 
 in the point of beauty, Armathwaite is feated, 
 queen of the lake, on which (he fmiles in grace- 
 ful beauty. On each hand are hanging woods. 
 The fpace between difplays much cultivation, 
 and is divided by inclofures, waving up the 
 farms feen under the Ikirts of Caer-mot, the 
 crown-topt hill, that clofes this fcene in the 
 fweeteft and moft elegant manner poffible. If 
 the fun fhines, you may be entertained here for 
 hours with a pleafing variety of landfcapes. All 
 the views up the lake are in a ftile great and 
 fublime. They are feen in the bofom of the 
 lake, foftened by reflexion, but to the glafs is 
 referved the finifhed pidure, in the trueft co- 
 louring, and moft juft perfpedive. As you come 
 out of the wood, at the gate leading to the open 
 fpace, there is a magnificent bird's-eye view of 
 Kefwick, in the centre of a grand amphitheatre 
 of mountains. Proceeding along the banks of 
 the lake, the road leads through I'hornthwaite 
 and Portingfcale, to Kefwick*. 
 
 A morning 
 
 * On taking leave of Baflenthwalte-water we may obferve, 
 that it was the^r/? lake that was honoured with one of thofe 
 araufements called Regattati this was on the 24th of Auguft, 
 
 J 7 80. 
 
THE LAKES. 127 
 A morning ride up the vale of Newland, to 
 
 BUTTERMERE. 
 
 This ride remains hitherto unnoticed, though 
 one of the moft pleafmg and furprifmg in the 
 
 environs 
 
 1780. Another was exhibited on it the ift of Auguft, 1 781, 
 (when the ftuimmmg ftveepjlakes were introduced ; ) and the laft 
 on the 4th of September, 1782. This fpecies of entertainment 
 was begun on Derwent-water, on the 28th of Auguft, 1781, 
 and continued there once in every year till 1791. 
 
 That the reader who has not been prefent at one of thefc 
 rural fetes may form fome idea of their nature and effefts, we 
 fubjoin, from the Cumberland Pacquet, the following defcrip- 
 tion of the Regatta exhibited on Derwent-water, the 6th of 
 Septembei', 1782. But it will be allowed, by all who have 
 had an opportunity of feeing it, that every reprefentation, in 
 the abfence of the beauties that furround the fcene, muft fall 
 infinitely (hort of the romantic grandeur it labours to hold 
 up to the imagination, 
 
 « At eight o'clock in the morning, a vaft concourle of la- 
 dies and gentlemen appeared on the fide of the Derwent lake, 
 where a number of marquees, extending about four hundred 
 yards, were ereded for their accommodation. At twelve, 
 fuch of the company as were invited by Mr. Pocklington, pal- 
 fed over in boats to the ifland which bears his name ; and, on 
 
 their landing, were faluted by a difcharge of his artillery 
 
 This might properly be called the opening of the Regatta ; 
 for as foon as the echo of this difcharge had ceafed, a fignal 
 gun was fired, and five boats, which lay upon their oars, (on 
 that part of the water which runs nearefl: the town of Kef- 
 wick) inftantly pufhed off the ihore, and began the race. 
 
 <« A view 
 
A GUIDE TO 
 
 environs of Kefwick. Company who vifit the 
 vale of Kefwick, and view its Jake from Caftle- 
 rigg, Latrigg, Swinfidc, and the vicarage, ima- 
 gine 
 
 ** A view from any of the attendants boats (of which there 
 were leveral) prefenied a fcene which beggars all dcfcription. 
 The fides of the hoary mountains were clad with fpcAatots, 
 and the glafly furface of the lake was variegated with a 
 number of pleafure barges; which, tricked out in all the 
 gaycft colours, and glittering in the rays of a meridian fun, 
 gave a new appearance to the celebrated beauties of this 
 match lefs vale, 
 
 " The contending boats pafled Pocklington's-ifland, and, 
 rounding St. Herbert's and Rampfliolme, edged down by 
 the outfide of Lord's-ifland, deicribing in the race almoil 
 a perfea circle, and, during the greateft part of it, in full, 
 view of the company. 
 
 " About three o'clock, preparations were made for the 
 (ham-attack on Pocklington's-ifland. The fleet (confifting 
 of feveral barges, armed with imall cannon and mufquets) 
 retired out of view, behind Friar-crag, to prepare for adion ; 
 previous to which, a flag of truce was fent to the governor, 
 with a fummons to furrender upon honourable terms. A 
 defiance was returned ; foon after which, the fleet was fcen 
 advancing, with great fpirit, before the batteries, and in- 
 ftantly forming in a curved line, a terrible cannonade began 
 on both fides, accompanied with a dreadful difchargc of muf- 
 quetry. This continued for fome time, and being echoed 
 from hill to hill, in an amazing variety of founds, filled the 
 ear with whatever could produce aftonifliment and awe. AH 
 nature feemed to be in an uproar, which impreffed on the 
 awakened imagination, the moft lively idea« of the « war of 
 elements," and •« erufh of worlde." 
 
 « After 
 
THE LAKES. 129 
 
 ginc inacceffible mountains only remain beyond 
 rhe line of this amazing tra£t. But whoever 
 takes a ride up Newland vale*, will be agreeably 
 
 K furprifed 
 
 "After a fevere conflift, the enemies were driven from the 
 attack, in great diforder. A Fcti-de joye was then fired in 
 the fort, and oft repeated by the refponiive echoes. The fleet, 
 after a little delay, formed again, and, praftifing a variety of 
 beautiful manceuvres, rcnev\red the attack. Uproar again 
 fprung up, and the deep-toned echoes of the mountains again 
 joined in the folemn chorus, which was heard to the dittancc 
 often leagues to leeward, through the eaftern opening of that 
 vail amphitheatre, as far as Appleby. 
 
 " The garrifon at length capitulated, and the entertain- 
 ments of the water being finiflied, (towards the evening) the 
 company moved to Kefwick ; to which place, from the wa- 
 ter's edge, a range of lamps was fixed, very happily difpofed, 
 and a number of fire-works were played oflF. 
 
 " An affembly room (which has been built for the purpofe) 
 next received the ladies and gentlemen, and a dance concluded 
 this annual feftirity; — a chain of amufements which, we may 
 venture to aflert, no other place can poflibly furnifh, and which 
 wants only to be more univerfally known, to render it a place 
 of more general refort than any other in the kingdom. 
 
 *' To thofe whom nature's works alone can charm, this fpot 
 will, at all times, be viewed with rapture and aftonifhment ; 
 but no breafl, however unfufceptible of pleafure, can be in- 
 different to that difplay of every beauty which decks the an- 
 cient vale of Kefwick on a Regatta-day.^' 
 
 X. 
 
 * Here, in a hill called Gold-fcope, are the remains of a 
 famous ancient copper-mine, which exhibits feme curious ex- 
 cavations 
 
130 A GUIDE TO 
 
 furprifed with fome of the fineft folemn pafto- 
 ral fceiies they have yet beheld. Here prelent 
 themfelves an arrangement of vaft mountains, 
 entirely new, both in form and colouring of 
 rock ; large hollow craters fcooped in their bo- 
 foms, once the feeming feats of raging liquid 
 fire, though at prefent overflowing with the pur- 
 eft water, that foams down the craggy brows ; 
 other woods ornament their bafe, and other 
 lakes, clear as the Derwent, lie at their feet. 
 The fofter parts of thefe fcenes are verdant hills 
 patched with wood, fpotted with rock, and paf- 
 tured with herds and flocks. 
 
 The ride is along Swinfide ; and having turned 
 the brow of the hill, and pafTed the firft houfes, 
 
 through 
 
 cavations, called the Pen-holes. One fhaft, reaching from the 
 top of the hill to the bottom, (into which, if a large lion© 
 be let fall, it occafigns a moll tremendous noife) is met by a 
 level paflage, cut quite through the mountain, along which 
 a llream of water (from Bank-beck) was conveyed to turn 
 a draining wheel, at its meeting with the (haft. 
 
 Thefe mines Were wrought in Henry Sth's time, and fome 
 of the fucceeding reigns. But the metal yielding a confi- 
 deiable quantity of gold, they came to be confidered as toyal 
 mines, and occafioned a difpute between the crown and the 
 Duke of Somerfet, then lord of the manor, and a difconti- 
 iiuance of the works. In 1757, Mr. Gilbert and company 
 drained them to the very bottom, at the expence of about 
 100/. but did not find the metal fuch,. or fo plentiful, as to 
 encourage them to proceed on at fo prodigious a depth. 
 
 X, 
 
THE LAKES. 131' 
 
 through which the road leads, obferve at the 
 gate on the right, a view down a narrow vale, 
 which is pleafing in a high degree. 
 
 The road continues winding through a glade, 
 along the fide of a rapid brook, that tumbles 
 down a ftony channel with water as clear as cry- 
 ftal. At the hedge-row-tree, under Rawlingend 
 (a brawny mountain) turn, and have a new and 
 pleafant view of the vale of Kefwick. The road 
 has then a gentle afcent, and the rivulet is heard 
 murmuring below. At the upper end of the 
 cultivated part of the vale, a green pyramidal 
 hill, divided into waving inclofures, looks down 
 the vale upon Kefwick, kc. The verdant hills 
 on each fide terminate in rude awful mountains, 
 that tower to the fkies in a variety of grotefque 
 for ms, and on their murky furrowed fides hang 
 many a torrent. Above Kelkadale, the laft hou^ 
 fes in Newland, no traces of human induftry ap- 
 pear. All is naked folitude and fimple nature. 
 The vale now becomes a dell, the road a path. 
 The lower parts are paffcured with a motley herd ; 
 the middle traft is alTumed by the flocks ; the 
 upper regions (to man inacceffible) are aban- 
 doned to the birds of Jove. Here untamed na- 
 ture holds her reign in folemn filence, amidjfl 
 the gloom and grandeur of dreary folitude *. 
 
 K 2 The 
 
 * And here the following exclamation of young Edwin, 
 may be properly recalled to the reader's remembrance. 
 
 Hail, 
 
132 A GUIDE TO 
 
 The morning fun beaming on the blue and yel- 
 low mountains fides, produces efFefts of light 
 and fhade, the mod charming that ever a fon 
 of Apelles imagined. In approaching the head 
 of Newland-hawfe, on the left, a mountain of 
 purple-coloured rock, prefents a thoufand gap- 
 ing chafms, excavated by torrents that fall into 
 a bafon, formed in the bofom of the mountain, 
 and from thence precipitating themfelves over a 
 wall of rock, become a brook below. In front 
 is a vafl: rocky mountain, the barrier of the 
 dell, that oppofes itfelf to all further accefs. 
 Among the variety of water-falls, that diftin- 
 guifh this awful boundary of rock, one catches 
 the eye at a diftance that exceeds the boafted 
 I.owdore, in height of rock, and unity of fall, 
 whilft the beholder is free from all anxiety of 
 mind in the approach. Not one pebble or grain 
 of fand offends, but all is nature in her fweet- 
 eft trim of verdant turf, fpread out to pleafe her 
 votaries. 
 
 Whoever 
 
 Hail, awful fcenes, that calm the troubled breaft. 
 
 And woo the weary to profound repofe, 
 Can paflion's wildeft uproar lay to reft. 
 
 And whifper comfort to the man of woes ! 
 
 Here innocence may wander, fafe from foes. 
 And contemplation foar on feraph wings, 
 
 O Solitude, the man who thee foregoes, 
 When lucre lures him, or ambition flings, 
 Shall never know the fource whence real grandeur fprlngs. 
 
 Beattk's MinJIrel, B. 2d, 
 X. 
 
THE LAKES. 13S 
 
 Whoever would enjoy, with eafe and fafety, 
 Alpine views, and paftoral fcenes in the fublime 
 ftile, may have them in this morning ride. 
 
 The road, or rather traft, becomes now lets 
 agreeable than it was, for a few roods, not from 
 any difficulty there is in turning the fineft moun- 
 tain turf into good road at a fmall expence, but 
 from tlie inattention of the dalefmen, who ha- 
 bituate themfelves to tread in the tradl made by 
 their flocks, and wifh for nothing better. It will 
 noc be labour loft to walk a few roods here, and 
 fee a new creation of mountains, as unlike thofe 
 left behind, as the Andes are to the Alps. The 
 contrail is really flriking, and appears at Qnce 
 on the fummit of the hill. On the right, at the 
 head of a deep green hill, a naked furrowed 
 mountain of an orange hue, has a ftrange ap* 
 pcarance amongft his verdant neighbours, and 
 finks, by his height, even Skiddaw itfelf. 
 
 Defcend the trad on the left, and you foon 
 have in fight the higheft poflible contraft in na- 
 ture. Four fpiral towering mountains, dark 
 dun, and gloomy at noon-day, rife immediately 
 from the weftern extremity of the deep narrow 
 dell, and hang over Buttermere. The more 
 fouthern is, by the dalefmen, from its form, cal- 
 led Hay-rick ; the more pyramidal High-crag j 
 the third High-ftile ; and the fourth, from its 
 ferruginous colour. Red -pike. Between the fe- 
 
 K 3 cond 
 
134 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 cond and third there is a large crater, that, from 
 the parched colour of the conical mountains in 
 whofe bofom it is formed, appears to have been 
 the focus of a volcano in fome diftant period of 
 time, when the cones were produced by explo- 
 fion. At prefent it is the refervoir of water that 
 feeds the roaring cataraft you fee in the defcent 
 to Buttermere, Here all is barrennefs, folitude, 
 and filence, only interrupted by the murmurs of 
 a rill, that runs unfeen in the narrow bottom of 
 a deep dell*. The fmooth verdant fides of the 
 vaft hills on the right, have many furrows en- 
 graven in their fides by the winter rains; and 
 the fable mountains in front prefent all the hor- 
 
 rars 
 
 * There is one curious fpeftacle often feen by the fliep- 
 herd, on the tops of thefe mountains, which the traveller may 
 never chance to fee, but which is fo happily delineated in the 
 following ftanza, that he may the lefs regret it. What I mean 
 is, the efFcfts of rnifts, which frequently involve every obje6t 
 round the bafes of thefe eminences, and which, in the diftrift 
 of pointed hills defcribed, muft be experienced in the great- 
 eft perfeftion. 
 
 And oft the craggy cHfF he lov'd to climb, 
 When all in mift the world below was loft. 
 
 What dreadful pleafure ! there to ftand fublime. 
 Like fhipwreck'd mariner on defart coaft. 
 And view th' enormous wafte of vapour, toft 
 
 In billows length'ning to th' horizon round. 
 
 Now fcoop'd in gulphs with mountains now emboPd, 
 
 And hear the voice of mirth and fong rebound. 
 
 Flocks, herds, and water-falls, along the hoar profound ! 
 
 Minflrel, B. ift. 
 
 X, 
 
THE LAKES. 135 
 
 rors of cloven rock, broken cliff, and mountain 
 ftreams tumbling headlong. Some traces of in- 
 duftiy obtruding themfelves at the foot of the 
 glen, difturb the folemn folitude with which the 
 eye and mind have been entertained, and point 
 out your return to fociety ; for you now ap- 
 proach the village of Buttermere, which is fi- 
 tuated betwixt the lakes, and confifts of (ixteen 
 houfes. The chapel here is very fmall, the fli- 
 pend not large, for, though twice augmented 
 with the queen's bounty, it exceeds not twenty 
 pounds per ann. This is one of the cures Mr. 
 Pennant mentions ; but the perquifites of the 
 clog-ihoes, harden-fark, whittle-gate, and goofe- 
 gate, have no better fupport than in fome an- 
 cient, and, probably, idle tale. 
 
 The life of the inhabitants is purely paftoral. 
 A few hands are employed in the (late quarries ; 
 the women fpin woollen yarn, and drink tea. 
 Above the village you have a view of the upper 
 lake, two miles in length, and (hort of one in 
 breadth. It is terminated On the weftern fide 
 by the ferruginous mountain already mentioned. 
 A ftripe of cultivated ground adorns the eaftern 
 Ihore. A group of houfes, called Gatefgarth, 
 is feated on the fouthern extremity, under the 
 moft extraordinary amphitheatre of moimtainous 
 rocks that ever eye beheld. Here we fee Honi- 
 fter-crag rife to an immenfe height, flanked by 
 two conic mountains, Fleetwith to the eaftern, 
 K 4 and 
 
136 A GUIDE TO 
 
 and Scarf on the weflern fide ; a hundred 
 mountain torrents form never-failing catarads, 
 that thunder and foam down the centre of the 
 rock, and form the lake below. Here the rocky 
 fcenes and mountain landfcapes are diverfified 
 and contrafted with all that aggrandizes the ob> 
 jea in the moft fublime ftile, and conflitute a 
 pidure the moft enchanting of any in thefe parts. 
 
 Mr. Gray's account of Barrowfide, and his 
 relation of Borrowdale, are hyperboles ; the 
 fport of fancy he was pleafed to indulge himfelf 
 in. A perfon that has croffed the Alps or Ap- 
 penines will meet here only miniatures of the 
 huge rocks and precipices, the vaft hills, and 
 fnow-topt mountains he faw there. And though 
 he may obferve much fimilarity in the ftile, 
 there is none in the danger. Skiddaw, Helvel- 
 lyn, and Cachidecam are but dwarfs, when com- 
 pared with mount Maudite, above the lake of 
 Geneva, and the guardian mountains of the 
 Rhone. If the roads in fome places be narrow 
 and difficult, they are at lead: fafe. No villain- 
 ous banditti haunt the mountains ; innocent 
 people live in the dells. Every cottager is nar- 
 rative of all he knows; and mountain virtue, 
 and paftoral hofpitality are found at every farm. 
 This conftitutes a pleafing difference betwixt 
 travelling here and on the continent, where 
 every inn-holder is an extortioner, and every 
 iroiturin an impofing rogue. 
 
 The 
 
THE LAKES. 137 
 
 The fpace betwixt the lakes is not a mile, and 
 confifts of pafture and meadow ground. The 
 lower lake, called 
 
 CROMACK-WATER*, 
 
 Soon opens after you leave the village, and 
 pafs through an oaken grove. A fine expanfe 
 of water fweeps away to the right under a rocky 
 promontory, Randon-knot, or Buttermere-hawfe. 
 The road then ferpentizes round the rock, and 
 under a rugged, pyramidal, craggy mountain. 
 From the creft of this rock the whole extent of 
 the lake is difcovered. On the weftern fide the 
 mountains rife immediately from the water's 
 edge, bold and abrupt. Juft in front, between 
 Blea-crag and Meilbreak, (two fpiral hills) the 
 hoarfe refounding noife of a water-fall is heard 
 acrofs the lake, concealed within the bofom of 
 the cYiff, through which it has forced its way, 
 and when viewed from the foot of the fall, is a 
 moft aftonifliing phsenomenon. 
 
 This lake is beautified with three fmall ifles. 
 One of rock lies juft before you. The whole 
 eaftern fhore is diverfified with bays, the banks 
 with fcatrered trees, and a few inclofures, termi- 
 nated by a hanging wood. At the foot of the 
 lake, a high crowned hill puflies forward, fringed 
 
 with 
 
 * This lake abounds with the fined char, and red tront ; 
 and contains alfo fome pike and perch. 
 
138 A GUIDE TO 
 
 with trees, and fweetly laid out with inclofurcs; 
 And above it, on a cuhivated flope, is the chapel 
 of Lowes-water, furrounded with fcattered farms. 
 Behind all, Low-fell raifes his verdant front ; a 
 fweet contraft to his murky neighbours, and a 
 pleafmg termination, either as feen from the top 
 of this rock, or from the bofom of the lake. 
 
 The chain of pyramidal mountains on each fide 
 of this narrow vale, are extremely pi6:urefque. 
 They rife from diftindl bafes, and fwell into the 
 moft grotefque forms of ferrated or broken rocks. 
 
 Thefe lakes are of a much greater depth than 
 Derwent-water, and this may be the only reafon 
 why they have char, and fome others have not. 
 The char in the fummer months retire to the 
 deeps, probably to avoid the heat. The water 
 here is clear, but not fo tranfparenr as the lake 
 of Derwent. The outlet is at the north-eaft 
 corner, by the river Cocker, over which is a 
 handfome ftone-bridge, of four arches. This 
 lake is four miles in length, and in fome places 
 almoft half a mile over. 
 
 LOWES-WATER. 
 
 Proceed from the bridge, by High-crofs, to 
 Lowes-water. Having paffed through a gate 
 that leads to the common, the lake fpreads out 
 before you, a mile in length, and of an equal 
 breadth of about a quarter of a mile. The ex- 
 tremities 
 
THE LAKES. 139 
 
 tremlties are rivals in beauty of hanging woods, 
 little groves, and waving inclofures, with farms 
 feated in the fweeteft points of view. The fouth 
 end is overlooked by lofty Mellbreak, at whofe 
 foot, a white houfe, within fome grafs inclofures, 
 under a few trees, ftands in the point of beauty. 
 The eaftern fhore is open, and indented with 
 fmall bays, but the oppofite fide is more plealing. 
 Carling-knot prefents a broad pyramidal front, 
 of fwift afcent, covered with foft vegetation, and 
 fpotted with many aged, folitary thorns. On 
 each fide, the outlines wave upward in the fineft 
 manner, terminating in a cone of grey rock, 
 patched with verdure. 
 
 This lake, in oppofition to all the other lakes, 
 has its courfe from north to fouth, and under 
 Mellbreak falls into Cromack-water. It is of no 
 great depth, and without char ; but it abounds 
 with pike and perch, and has fome trout. 
 
 An evening view of both lakes, is from the 
 fide of Mellbreak, at the gate, under a coppice 
 of oaks, in the road to Ennerdale. Nothing ex- 
 ceeds, in compofition, the parts of this landfcape. 
 They are all great, and lie in fine order of per- 
 fpeftive. If the view be taken from the round 
 knoll at the lower end of the lake, the appearance 
 ^of the mountains that bound it is aftonifhing. 
 You have Mellbreak on the right, and Grafmire 
 on the left, and betwixt them, a ftupendous am- 
 phitheatre 
 
140 A GUIDE TO 
 
 phitheatre of mountains, whofe tops are all bro" 
 ken and diffimilar, and of different hues, and their 
 bafes Ikirted wilh wood, or cloathed with verdure. 
 In the centre point of this amphitheatre, is a huge 
 pyramidal broken rock, that feems with its figure 
 to change place, as you move acrofs the fore- 
 ground, and gives much variety to the fcenes, 
 and alters the pifture at every pace. In fhort, 
 the pidlurefque views in this diftrift are many, 
 fome mixt, others purely fublime, but all furprife 
 and pleafe. The genius of the greateft adepts 
 in landfcape, might here improve in tafte and 
 judgment ; and the moft enthufiaftic ardour for 
 paftoral poetry and painting, will here find an 
 inexhauftible fource of fcenes and images. 
 
 When the roads to Ennerdale and Wast- 
 WATER are improved, they may be taken in this 
 morning ride*. 
 
 From the bridge, at the foot of the lake, af- 
 cend the road to Brackenthwaite. At the ale- 
 houfe. Scale-hill, take a guide to the top of the 
 rock, above Mr. Bertie's woods, and have an 
 entirely new view of Cromack-water. The river 
 Cocker is feen winding through a beautiful and 
 rich cultivated vale, fpreading far to the north, 
 variegated with woods, groves, and hanging 
 
 grounds, 
 
 * An account a ride from Kefwick to Ennerdale has been 
 communicated by a friend of the publifliers, and is inferled 
 in the Addenda, Article IX. 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 141 
 
 grounds, in every pleafing variety. The moft 
 lingular objeft in this vale of Lorton and Brac- 
 kenthvi^aite, is a high crown-topt rock that divides 
 the vale, and raifes a broken craggy head over 
 hanging woods, that Ikirt the Hoping fides, which 
 are cut into waving inclofures, and varied with 
 groves, and patches of coppice wood. To the 
 weft, a part of Lowes-water is feen, under a 
 fringe of trees at High-crofs. Behind you, awful 
 Grafmire (the Skiddaw of the vale) frowns in all 
 the majefty of furrowed rock, cut almoft per- 
 pendicularly to the centre by the water-falls of 
 ages. The fwell of a catarad is here heard, but 
 entirely concealed within the gloomy recefs of a 
 rocky dell, formed by the rival mountains, Graf- 
 mire and White-fide. At their feet, lie the 
 mighty ruins, brought down from the moun- 
 tains, by the memorable water -fpout, that de- 
 luged all the vale, in September, 1760*. 
 
 After 
 
 * I don't know whether an account of the efFefts of this 
 ftoi m has been publifhed ; but the following defcription of a 
 fimilar one which happened in St. John's vale, given as the 
 moft authentic that has yet appeared, by a native of the place, 
 may here merit a pei'ufal. 
 
 In the evening of the 2 2d of Auguft, 1749, that day ha- 
 ving been much hotter than was ever known in thefe parts, a 
 itrange and frightful noife was heard in the air, which con- 
 tinued for fome time, to the great furprife of the inhabitants, 
 founding over them like a ftrong wind, though they could 
 not perceive it. This was fucceeded by the moil terrible 
 claps of thunder, and inceflant flalhes of lightning breaking 
 
 ovcf 
 
142 A GUIDE TO 
 
 After this, the mountains become humble 
 hills, and terminate the fweet vale, that ftretchts 
 from the feet of Black-crag and Carling-knot, 
 
 and 
 
 •ver their heads. At the fame time the clouds poured down 
 whole torrents of water on the mountains to the eaft, which 
 in a very little time fwelled the channels of their rivulets and 
 brooks, fo as to overflow every bank, and overwhelm almoft 
 every obftacle in their way. In a moment they deluged the 
 whole valley below, and covered with ftones, earth, and fand 
 many acres of fine cultivated ground. Several thoufands of 
 huge fragments of broken rocks were driven by the impe- 
 tuofity of thefe dreadful catarafts into the fields below, and 
 fuch was their bulk that fome of them weie more than ten 
 horfes could move, and one fairly meafured nineteen yards in 
 circumference. A corn-mill, dwelling-houfe, and ftable, all 
 vnder one roof, lay in the tradl of one of thefe currents, and 
 the mill from the one end, and the ftable from the other, were 
 both fwept away, leaving the little habitation ftanding in the 
 middle, rent open at both ends, with the miller who was very 
 old and infirm, in bed, and who was ignorant of the matter 
 till he rofe the next morning to behold nothing but ruin and 
 defolation. His mill was no more; and inftead of feeing green 
 ground in the vale below, all was covered with large ftones 
 and rubbifli, four yards deep, and among which one of the 
 mill-ftones was irrecoverably loft. The old channel of the 
 ftream too was entirely choaked up, and a new one cut open 
 on the other fide of the building, through the middle of a 
 large rock, four yards wide, and nine deep. — Something fimi- 
 lar to this happened at feveral other places in the neighbour- 
 hood, fbr the fpace of two miles, along Legberthwaite, and 
 Fornfide, but happily, through the providence of the Al- 
 mighty, no perfon's life was loft. 
 
 C An account of this innundation is given in the Philofg- 
 phical Tranfadions for the year 1750, No. 494.] 
 
 X. 
 
THE LAKES. 143 
 
 and fpreads itfelf into a country watered by 
 the Cocker. 
 
 The ride down this vale is pleafant. All the 
 fcenes are fmihng, rich, and rural. Every dale- 
 lander appears to be a man of tafte, and every vil- 
 lage, houfe, and cot is placed in the choiceft fite, .0 
 and decorated in the neateft manner, and ftile of ' 
 natural elegance. Not one formal avenue, or 
 ilraight lined hedge, or fquare fifh-pond, offends 
 the eye in all this charming vale. The variety of 
 fituation gives diverfity of views, and a fucceflion 
 of pleafmg objeds creates the defire of feeing. 
 
 The back view is under a wooded hill, near 
 the fifth mile-poft, and is fine. Here return up 
 the great road to Kefwick. 
 
 From Kefwick to Penrith, feventeen miles of 
 very good road, through an open wild country. 
 
 ANTIQUITIES. Upon Hutton-raoor, and on 
 the north fide of the great road, may be traced 
 the path of the Roman way, that leads from old 
 Penrith, or Plumpton-wall, in a line almoft due 
 weft, to Kefwick. Upon the moor are the traces 
 of a large encampment that the road traverfes. 
 And a little beyond the eighth mile-poft j on the 
 left, at Whitbarrow, are ftrong veftiges of a 
 fquare encampment. The Roman road, beyond 
 that, is met with in the inclofed fields of Whit- 
 barrow, and is known by the farmers from the 
 
 oppofition 
 
144 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 oppofition they meet with in plowing acrofs it. 
 After that, it is found entirely on the common 
 called Greyftock-low-moor ; and lately they have 
 formed a new road on the a^ger of it. It pro- 
 ceeds in a right line to Greyftock town, where 
 it makes a flexure to the left, and continues in a 
 line to Blencow ; it is then found in a plowed 
 field, about 200 yards to the north of Little- 
 Blencow, pointing at Coach-gate ; from thence 
 it paiTes on the north fide of Kell-barrow, and 
 through Cow-clofe, and was difcovered in mak- 
 ing the new turnpike road from Penrith to Coc- 
 kermouth, which it crolTed near the toll-gate. 
 From thence it ftretches over Whitrigg in a 
 right line, is vifible on the edge of the wood at 
 Fairbank, and in the lane called Low-ftreet. 
 From thence it points through hiclofed land, to 
 the fouth end of the ftation called Plumpton- 
 wall, and old Penrith. — It croiTed the brook 
 Petteral, at Topin-holme. 
 
 In the year 1772, near Little-Blencow, in re- 
 moving a heap of ftones, two urns were taken 
 up, about two feet and a half high, made of very 
 coarfe earth, and crufted on both fides with a 
 brown clay, the tops remarkably wide, and co- 
 vered with a red flat ftone. Befides alhes and 
 bones, each urn had a fmall cup within it, of a 
 fine clay, in the fliape of a tea-cup. One was 
 pierced in the centre of the bottom part. The 
 place where they were taken up, is called Lod- 
 
 don-howa 
 
THE LAKES. 145 
 
 don-how, within 20 yards of the road between 
 Penrith and Skelton, and about 200 yards from, 
 the Roman road, and four miles from the fta- 
 tion. Alfo, on the banks of the Petteral, a few 
 roods from the fouth corner of the ftation, a 
 curious ahar was lately found. It was three feet 
 four inches in height, and near fixteen inches 
 fquare. It had been thrown down from the 
 upper ground, and the corners broken off in 
 the fail. The front has been filled with an in- 
 fcriptioo ; the letters fliort and fquare, but not 
 one word remains legible. On the right hand 
 fide is the patera, with a handle, and underneath 
 the fecefpita. On the oppofite fide is the ampula, 
 and from its lip a ferpent or viper defcends in 
 waves. The back part is rude, as if intended to 
 ftand againft a wall. The emblems are in ex- 
 cellent prefervation *. 
 
 The caftrum is 168 paces from fouth to 
 north, by no within the fofs ; which was alfo 
 furrounded with a ftone-wall. The ftones have 
 been removed to the fence-wall on the road fide, 
 and being in Plumpton, is called Plumpton-wall. 
 
 The ftation is a vaft heap of ruins, of ftone 
 building. The walls are of great thicknefs, and 
 cemented. The town has furrounded the fta- 
 
 L tion, 
 
 * This curious altar, after being fome time In the poflef- 
 Hon of the late Dr. James, of Arthuret, was lately removea 
 into tiic valuable colleftion of antiques at Nethetby. 
 
A GUIDE TO 
 
 tion, except on the fide of the Petteral. But 
 whether the (lation took its name from the river, 
 as being upon its banks, and was called the Pet- 
 triana, or whether the ftation gave name to the 
 river (which is perhaps the lead probable) let 
 him who can determine. 
 
 The ftation is twelve miles and three quarters 
 from Carlifle ; five and a quarter from Penrith ; 
 about feven from Brougham-cafile ; and about 
 eighteen from Kefwick, where an intermediate 
 ftation muft have been, between Amblefide and 
 Morefby, and between old Penrith and Moreftjy, 
 having Caer-mot between it and old Carlifle, 
 and Papcaftle between it and Moreftjy. The 
 fummer ftation would be on Caftle-hill, and the 
 winter ftation on the area of the prefent town of 
 Kefwick, or on fome convenient place betwixt 
 the conflux of the rivers Greeta and Derwent. 
 And it is more probable that the Derventione of 
 the Chorographia was here, than at Papcaftle, 
 which comes better in for the Pampocalio of the 
 fame Chorographia. A ftation here would be an 
 efficacious check on any body of the enemy that 
 might crofs the seftuaries, above or below Boul- 
 nefs, and pafs the watch there, and the garrifons 
 at old Carlifle, Ellenborough, Papcaftle, and Mo- 
 refby ; for it was impoflible for any body of men 
 to proceed to the fouth, but by Borrowdale or 
 Dunmail-raife, and a garrifon at Kefwick com- 
 juanded both thefc paffes. The watch at Caer- 
 mot 
 
THE LAKES. 147 
 
 mot would give the alarm to that on Caftle-crag, 
 in the pafs of Borrowdale, and the centinel on 
 Caftlet-head, that overlooks Kefwick, vi'ould 
 communicate the fame to the garrifon there ; 
 fo it is apparently impoffible that any body of 
 men could pafs that way unnoriced or unmolelfed. 
 But if they attempted a roufe on the northern 
 fide of Skiddaw, and over Hutton-moor, to Pat- 
 terdale, the watch at Caer-mot was in fight, both 
 of old Carlifle and Kefwick, and the garrifon of 
 the latter might either purfue, or give notice to 
 Whitbarrow and Amblefide, to meet them in the 
 pafs at the head of Patterdale, called Kirkfton, 
 which is fo fteep, narrow, and crowded with 
 rocks, that a few veteran troops would eafily 
 flop the career of a tumultuous croud. If they 
 made good the pafs, and turned to the eaft be- 
 fore the Romans arrived, they would, in that 
 cafe, be harrafTed in the rear, till they arrived at 
 Kendal, where the watchmen from Watercrook 
 would be ready to receive them, and then they 
 would be attacked in front and rear. That the 
 Romans have had engagements at Kirkfton pafs 
 is evident, from the Roman arms that were lately 
 found in the adjoining mofs, and the many heaps 
 of ftones colleded thereabouts, which have the ' 
 appearance of barrows. 
 
 Thefe are the only pafles amongft the moun- 
 tains, that a body of Caledonians could attempt 
 in their way to the fouth, and thefe could not be 
 L 2 fecurcd 
 
148 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 fecured without a ftation at Kefwick ; and that 
 could not be more advantageoufly placed, than 
 where the town now (lands, on the meeting of 
 thfe roads from the furrounding ftations ; all being 
 about an equal ^iftance from it, and at fuch a 
 diilance a& rendered a ftation there neceffarv, 
 and the feveral caftellums, on Caftle-crag, and 
 Caftle-hill, and Caftlet, ufeful in giving notice, 
 in order to guard thefe important poft s. That 
 no veftige is now vifible of a (tation ever being 
 there, nor any notice taken of it by Camden, 
 Horfley, and others, nor even a traditional record 
 of its exiftence, are feeming difficulties, which 
 put the negative on what has been advanced. 
 But this may only prove, that no care was taken 
 to preferve the memory of fuch remains, and 
 that the town occupies the whole area of the 
 ftation, and that the ftation had been placed 
 within the fite of the town, probably in the lower 
 part, facing the pafs of the Greeta. In the 
 wheel of the Greeta, in a meadow peninftilated 
 by the river, juft below the town, and called 
 Goats-field, there are veftiges of a fofs, but too 
 imperfect to draw a conclufion from, in favour of 
 the ftation. The ground round the town is very 
 fertile, and has been long enough cultivated to 
 deftroy any remains of it, and what have been 
 accidentally difcovered, may be gone into obli- 
 vion, and no change happening in the town itfelf 
 to occafion new difcoveries, farther proofs may 
 ftill be wanting. If Camden vifited Kefwick, he 
 
 wsts 
 
THE LAKES. 149 
 
 was fatisfied with the then prefent ftate of the 
 little town, which King Edward I. made a 
 market.** The face of the country only drew 
 his attention. That Horfley never vifited thefe 
 parts is evident, from his miftaken account of 
 the road from Plumpton-wall to Kefwick, which 
 he fays palTed through Greyftock-park. This, 
 had he but feen the face of the country, he could 
 never have imagined. His miftake, and Cam- 
 den's filence, gave occafion to a regular furvey 
 of the faid road, and finding the military roads 
 from Papcaftie, Ellenborough, Morefby, Amble- 
 fide, and Plumpton, all to coincide at Kefwick ; 
 for this and the other reaions already alTigned, it 
 appeared evident, that a ftation mult be fome- 
 whcre near. The Callle-hill, above Kefwick, is 
 a faithful record of the exiftence of a ftation in 
 this country. Here was the feat of the ancient 
 lords of the manor of Derwent-water, probably 
 raifed on the ruins of the Roman fortrefs : but 
 after the heirefs of that family was married to 
 Ratcliff's, the family feat was removed into 
 Northumberland, and the caftle went to ruins ; 
 and with the ft ones thereof the Ratcliff's built a 
 houfe of pleafure in one of the iflands in Der- 
 went. water*. The name Caftle-hill being more 
 ancient than the laft eredion, is ftill retained. 
 At Amblefide, when I enquired for the Roman 
 ftation, a few years ago, no perfon could inform 
 me of it, till one confidering my defcription, an* 
 L 3 fwered^ 
 
 ' ■* Nitolfon's hyiory of Cumhrhnd, pagq^ 85* 
 
150 A GUIDE TO - 
 
 fwered, it is the caftle. The ftation at Plumptorj 
 is called by the fame name ; and at Kendal, the 
 caftellum that overlooks the ftation, is alfo called 
 the Caftle-fteads. So here the Caftle-hill was 
 probably the place of the fummer ftation, but 
 being a fruitful trad, and much plowed, I have 
 not been able to trace any appearance of a fofs, 
 or vallura, and therefore the whole muft reft 
 upon the neceffity, or at leaft on the expediency, 
 of a ftation here. Since the above was writ- 
 ten, an urn, with other remains, were turned up 
 by the plow, in a field below the town, and faid 
 to be Roman *. 
 
 ULLS-WATER. 
 
 Thofe who do not chufe to go as far as Pen- 
 rith, may, near the eighth mile-poft, turn off to 
 the right (leaving Mell-fell, a round green hill, 
 on the left) to Matterdale, and proceed into 
 Gowbarrow-park, which will bring them upon 
 Ulls-water, about the middle part of it, where 
 it is feen to great advantage. But here it 
 
 muft 
 
 * Our author's predlleaion for antlquules will perhaps by 
 fome be thought no recommendation to his book. Others, 
 however, will no doubt confider the accounts he has given ua 
 of that kind very well woi th the room they occupy. And 
 /hould the proofs here offered of a Roman ftation at Kefwick 
 (and which the author always confidered as one of the beft 
 ^arts of his performance) not appear fully fatisfadtory, they 
 muft at leaft be owned to be very ingenious. 
 
THE LAKES. 151 
 
 muft be obferved, that fome of the principal 
 beauties of the lake, and the fweeteft paftoral 
 fcenes, are entirely loft by this route. Dun- 
 mallet, the greateft ornament of the lake, with 
 the whole of the firft great bend, cannot here be 
 feen, and much of the dignity of the lake is 
 thereby loft. It is therefore better to ride on to 
 the gate on the right, that leads to Dacre, and 
 over Dacre common, to the foot of Dunmallet. 
 By this courfe, every part of the lake will be 
 viewed to the greateft advantage. 
 
 Mr. Gray's choice of vifiting this lake, was. 
 from Penrith, up the vale of Emont. " A grey 
 autumnal day, he writes, went to fee Ulls-water, 
 five miles diftant ; foon left Kefwick road, and 
 turned to the left, through fliady lanes, along the 
 Yale of Emont, which runs rapidly on near the 
 way, rippling over the ftones ; to the right, 
 Dalemain, a large fabrick of pale led ftone, with 
 nine windows in front, and fcven on the fide. 
 Further on Hutton St. John, a caftle-like old 
 manfion of Mr. Huddlefton's. Approach Dun- 
 mallet, a fine pointed hill, covered vnth wood. 
 Began to mount the hill, and with fome toil 
 gained the fummit. From hence, faw the lake 
 (Opening direftly at my feet, majeftic in its calm- 
 nefs, clear and fmooth as a blue mirror, with 
 winding fhores, and low points of land, covered 
 with green inclofures, white farm houfes looking 
 out among the trees, and cattle feeding. The 
 L 4 water 
 
152 A GUIDE TO 
 
 water is aimoft every where bordered with cul- 
 tivated lands, gently Qoping upwards, from a 
 mile to a quarter of a mile, in breadth, till they 
 reach the feet of the mountains, which rife very 
 rude and awful with their broken tops on either 
 hand. Direftly in front, at better than three 
 miles diftance, Place-fell, one of the braveft a- 
 mongll them, pulhes its bold breaft into the 
 midlt of the lake, and forces it to alter its courfe, 
 forming firft a large bay to the left, and then 
 bending to the right. Defcended Dunmallet by 
 a fide avenue, only not perpendicular, and came 
 to Barton-bridge over the Emont. Then walked 
 through a path in the wood, round the bottom 
 of the hill, came forth where the Emont iffues 
 out of the lake, and continued my way along 
 the weftern (hore, clofe to the water, and gene- 
 rally on a level with it; it is nine miles long, 
 and at wideft under a mile in breadth. After 
 extending itfelf three miles and a half in a line 
 to the fouth-weft, it turns at the foot of Place- 
 feU, almoft due weft, and is here not twice the 
 breadth of the Thames at London. It is foon 
 again interrupted by the root of Helvellyn, a lofty 
 and very rugged mountain, and fpreading again, 
 turns off to the fouth-eaft, and is loft among the 
 deep receffes of hills. To this fccond turning I 
 purfued my way, about four miles along its bor- 
 ders, beyond a village fcattered among trees, and 
 called Watermillock." Here Mr. Gray leaves 
 ■es, and the greatefl part of the lake unfeen, and 
 
 its 
 
THE LAKES. 153 
 
 its moft pifturefque parts undefcribed. For the 
 lafl bend of the lake is fpotted with rocky ifles, 
 deeply indented with wooded promontories on 
 one (ide, and rocks on the other, from whicb 
 refult many a truly pleafmg pidure. 
 
 ANTIQUITIES. Before you quit the top of 
 Dunmallet, obferve the veftiges of its former 
 importance, in the remains of a Roman fort. 
 An area of no paces by 37, furrounded with a 
 fofs, is yet vifible, and (tones of the rampart ftill 
 peep through the grafs. The well that fupplied 
 the guard kept here, was but lately filled with 
 ftones. This fort muft have been of much con- 
 fequence in guarding the lake, and commanding 
 the pafs, and in maintaining a connexion be- 
 tween the garrifons of Amblefide and Brougham, 
 it being five or fix miles diftant from the latter, 
 and nineteen from the former. There are alfo 
 ftrong veftiges of a fquare fort on Soulby-fell, 
 which communicates with this, and the camp at 
 Whitbarrow. 
 
 Oppofite to Watermillock, a cataraft defcends 
 down the front of Swarth-fell, in Martindale- 
 foreft. At SkeUing-nab, a bold promontory, the 
 lake is contraded to a fpan, but it foon fpreads 
 itfelf again both ways, forming a variety of fweet 
 bays and promontories. After a reach of three 
 miles, it winds, with a grand fweep, round the 
 fmooth breaft of PIace-feil,^ and, making a turn 
 
 directly 
 
154 A GUIDE TO 
 
 direftly fouth, advances with equal breadth to= 
 . wards Patterdale. The weftern fhore is various. 
 Drawing near the fecond bend, the mountains 
 ftrangely interfe6l each other. Behind many 
 wooded hihs rifes Stone-crofs-pike, and over all, 
 fteep Helvellyn fhews his fovereign head. On 
 the weftern fide, Yew-crag, a noble pile of rock, 
 fronts Place-fell, where its ftreams tumble in a 
 cataradl to the lake. Gowbarrow-park opens 
 with a grand amphitheatre of fliining rock, the 
 floor of which is fpread with foft green paflure, 
 once fhaded with ancient oaks, to which many 
 decayed roots bear witnefs. Scattered thorns, 
 trees, and bufties vary the ground, which is pa- 
 ftured with flocks, herds of cattle, and fallow 
 deer. The road winds along the margin of the 
 lake, and at every turn prefents the fineft fcencs 
 that can be imagined. At the upper end ot 
 Gowbarrow-park, the laft: bend of the lake, 
 which is by much the fineft, opens, fcattered 
 with fmall rocky iflands. The fliores are bold, 
 rocky, wooded, and much embayed, Fafs New- 
 bridge, and the road winds up a fteep rock, hav- 
 ing the lake underneath you on the left. From 
 the top, you have a view under the trees, both 
 up and down the lake. Martindale-fell, a naked 
 grey rock, on the oppofite fliore, rifes abruptly 
 from" the water, to an Alpine height, and with 
 an aftoniftiing eff'ed. The rock you ftand upon 
 Jiangs over the lake, which feems blue and un- 
 fathomable to the eye. An ifland in the middle 
 
 fpace 
 
THE LAKES. 155 
 
 fpace has a beautiful appearance. This is the 
 moft romantic, ftriking, and terrible fituation 
 upon the lake, efpecially if the wind blow the 
 furges of the water againfl: the rock below you. 
 The fliores on both fides upward are very plea- 
 fing, and the little decorating ifles are fcattered 
 in the moft: exquifite tafte, and delightful order. 
 The ride along the banks, fmce the repair of the 
 road, is charming. 
 
 The upper end terminates in fweet meadows, 
 furrounded on the right by towering rocky hills, 
 broken and wooded. Martindale-fell is the op- 
 pofite boundary, fkirted here with hanging in- 
 clofures, cots, and farms. 
 
 The principal feeders of this lake are Gryf- 
 dale-beck, on the wefl:ern corner, and Gold rill- 
 beck, which defcends from Kirkfl:on-fell. They 
 enter it in a freer manner than the feeder of 
 Derwent does, and make a much finer appear- 
 ance at their junction. 
 
 From the bridge in Patterdale*, Goldrill-beck 
 ferpentizes fweetly through the meadows, and 
 falls eafily into the lake about the middle of the 
 
 vale. 
 
 * After croffing the bridge in Patterdale, and afcending 
 the fide of Martindale-fell, to a certain height, in the view 
 acrofs the head of the lake, the mountains affume more point- 
 ed and Alpine forms than any we have feen in this country. 
 No. 1 2. of views of the lakes reprefeats this fubjeft. 
 
156 A GUIDE TO 
 
 vale. Glencairn-beck, defcending from Helvei- 
 lyn, joins the lake at the bridge which unites the 
 counties of Weflmorland and Cumberland. 
 
 There is, from the top of the rock, above the 
 inn, a very charming view of the lafl: bend of the 
 Jake, which conftitutes one of the fineft land- 
 fcapes, on it, and takes in juft enough for a de- 
 lightful pidure. Ihe neareft fore-ground is a 
 fall of inclofures. A rocky wooded mountain 
 that hangs over Patterdale-houfe (called Mar- 
 tindale-fell) is in a proper point of diflance on 
 the right. Steep rocks, and fhaggy woods 
 hanging from their fides, are on the left* 
 Gowbarrow-park rifes in a fine ftile from the 
 water edge for the back-ground, and a noble 
 reach of water, beautifully fpotted with rocky 
 ifles, charmingly difpofed, with perpetual change 
 of rocky fliore, fill the middle fpace of this 
 beautiful pidure. 
 
 This lake is of a depth fufficient for breeding 
 char, and abounds with variety of other fifli. 
 Trout of thirty pounds weight and upwards, are 
 feid to be taken in it. 
 
 The water of the lake is very clear, but has 
 nothing of the tranfparency of Derwent, and is 
 inferior to Buttermere and Cromack-water alfo 
 in this refpeft. The ftones in the bottom, and 
 ailong the (bores, are coated with mud. 
 
 Mr. 
 
THE LAKES. 157 
 
 Mr. Gray viewed this lake in the fame man- 
 ner as that at Kefwick, proceeding along its 
 banks, and facing the mountains, judging that 
 the idea of magnitude and magnificence were 
 thereby increafed, and the whole fet off with 
 every advantage of fore-ground. But this lake 
 viewed from any height, except Dunmallet, alfo 
 lofes much of its dignity, as a lake, from the 
 number of its flexures, and juttings out of pro- 
 montories ; it neverthelefs retains the appearance 
 of a magnificent river, ingulphed in rocks. 
 
 The bold winding hills, the interfecling moun- 
 tains, the pyramidal cliffs, the bulging, broken, 
 rugged rocks, the hanging woods, and the tum- 
 bling, roaring cataraft, are parts of the fublimer 
 fcenes prefented in this furprifing vale. The 
 cultivated fpots wave upward from the water in 
 beautiful flopes, interfered by hedges, decorated 
 with trees, in the moft pleafing manner ; man- 
 fions, cottages, and farms, placed in the fweeteft 
 fituations, are the rural parts, and altogether 
 form the moil delightful and charming fceneg. 
 The accompaniments of this lake are difpofed in 
 the moft pidturefque order, bending round its 
 margin, and fpreading upwards in craggy locks 
 and mountains, irregular in outline; yet they 
 are certainly much inferior in fublimity and 
 horrible grandeur, to the environs of Kefwick, 
 and the dreadful rocks in Borrowdale. But in 
 this opinion we have Mr. Cumberland againft 
 
158 A GUIDE TO 
 
 us, who, having vifited the other lakes in dark 
 unfavourable weather, when nothing could be 
 feen befides weeping rocks, flooded roads, and 
 watery plains, darkened by fable clouds that ho- 
 vered over them, and concealed their variegated 
 fliores, — entertained an unfavourable idea of 
 them ; and being more fortunate in a fine day, 
 in that part of the tour, where he vifited Ulls- 
 water, he attuned his lyre in honour of this en- 
 chanting lake, and fung its charms in preference 
 not only to Windermere, Grafmere, and the vale 
 of Kefwick, but he alfo raifes it above the pride 
 of Lomond, and the marvellous Killarney. 
 
 Our bard, in the fweet ode alluded to, re- 
 prefents himfelf upon the banks of the lake of 
 UUs-water, bemoaning the hardnefs of his fate, 
 in being deprived of a fine day for this view, 
 when the fun beaming forth, bleffed him with a 
 full difplay of all the beauties of this enchanting 
 lake. In gratitude for fo fpecial a favour, in a 
 true poetic rapture, he dedicates this ode to the 
 God of Day, and commemorates his partiality 
 to the lake of Patterdale, in the following har- 
 monious numbers. 
 
 Me turbid flcies and threat'ning clouds await, 
 Emblems, alas ! of my ignoble fate. 
 
 But fee the embattled vapours break, 
 Difperfe and fly, 
 Pofting like couriers down the fliy ; 
 The grey rock glitters in the glaffy lake ; 
 
 An4 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 '59 
 
 And now the mountain tops are feen 
 
 Frowning amidfl; the blue ferene ; 
 
 The variegated groves appear, 
 Deckt in the colours of the waningys 
 
 And, as new beauties they unfold, 
 
 Dip their flcirts in beaming gold. 
 
 Thee favage Wyburn, now I hail, 
 
 Delicious Grafmere's calm retreat. 
 
 And ftately Windermere I greet. 
 
 And Kefvvick's fweet fantaftic vale : 
 
 But let her naiads yield to thee. 
 
 And lowly bend the fubjeft knee, 
 
 Imperial lake of Patrick's dale ; 
 
 For neither Scottifh Lomond's pride. 
 
 Nor fmoolth Killarney's filver tide. 
 
 Nor ought that learned Pouflin drew. 
 Or dafhing Rofa flung upon my view. 
 Shall {hake thy fovereign undifturbed right, 
 Great fcene of wonder and fublime delight ! 
 
 Hail to thy beams, O fun ! for this difplay, 
 
 What, glorious orb, can I repay ? 
 —The thanks of an unproftituted mufe*. 
 
 The navigators of this lake find much amufe- 
 ment by difcharging guns, or fmall cannon, at 
 certain ftations. The effe£l is indeed truly curi- 
 ous. For the report is reverberated from rock 
 to rock, promontory, cavern, and hill, with every 
 variety of found ; now dying away upon the ear, 
 and again returning like peals of thunder, and 
 
 thus 
 
 * OJe to the futi^ page 1 8. The whole of this ode is in? 
 fertcd in the Addenda, Article IV. 
 
i6o 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 thus re-echoed feven times diftindly Oppo- 
 fite to Watermillock is one of thofe ftations. 
 
 The higher end of the lake is fourteen miles 
 from Penrith, and ten from Amblefide, of good 
 turnpike road, fave only at Styboar-crag, where 
 it is cut into the rock that awfully overhangs it, 
 and is too narrow. 
 
 Above 
 
 * This effed is thus defcribed by Mr. Hutchinfon. 
 
 " Whilft we fat to regale, the barge put ofF from fhore to 
 a ftation where the fineft echoes where to be obtained from 
 the furrounding mountains. The veflel was provided with 
 fix brafs cannon mounted on fwivels ;— -on difcharging one 
 of thefe piec«s, the report was echoed from the oppofite rocks, 
 where by reverberation it feemed to roll from cliff to cliff, 
 and return through every cave and valley, till the decreafing 
 tumult gradually died away upon the ear. 
 
 The inftant it had ceafed, the found of every diftant wa- 
 
 ter-fall was heard, but for an inftant only ; for the momentary 
 ftillnefs was interrupted by the returning echo on the hills be- 
 hind ; where the report was repeated like a peal of thunder 
 burfting over our heads, continuing for feveral feconds, flying 
 from haunt to haunt, till once more the found gradually de- 
 clined ; — again the voice of water-falls poffeffed the interval 
 — till, to the right, the more diftant thunder arofe upon fome 
 other mountain, and feemed to take its way up every winding 
 dpll and creek, fometimes behind, on this fide, or on that, in 
 wonderous fpeed running its dreadful courfe ; when the echo 
 reached the mountains within the line and channel of the 
 breeze, it was heard at once on the right and left, at the ex- 
 tremities of the lake — lu this manner was the report of 
 every difcharge re-echoed feven times diftindly," 
 
 Exeur/lon to the Lakes f page 65. 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 Above Goldrill-bridge the vale becomes nar- 
 row and poor, the mountains fteep, naked, and 
 rocky. Much blue flate, of an excellent kind, 
 is excavated out of their bowels. The afcent 
 from the lake to the top of Kirkfton is cafy, and 
 there are many water-falls from the mountains 
 on both fides. From the top of Kirkfton to 
 Amblefide the defcent is quick. Some remark- 
 able ftones near the gorge of the pafs are called 
 High-crofs. 
 
 After what we have feen, the only lake that 
 remains to be vifited in this tour is 
 
 HAWS-WATER. 
 
 This is a pretty morning ride from Penrith ; 
 or it may be taken in the way to Shap, or from 
 Shap, and return to Kendal. There is alfo a 
 road from Pooly-bridge, over the mountain, to 
 Bampton vale, a beautiful fccreted valley. 
 
 Afcending the road from Pooly-bridge to the 
 fouth, from the brow of the common, you have 
 a grand general view of Ulls-water, with all its 
 winding fhore, and accompaniments of woods, 
 rocks, mountains, bays, and promontories, to the 
 entrance of Patterdale. To the north-caft, you 
 look down on Pooly-bridge, and the winding of 
 the river guides the eye to a beautiful valley, 
 much ornamented with plantations, in the midft 
 of which Dalemain is feated, queen of the vale of 
 
 M Emont. 
 
i62 A GUIDE t o 
 
 Emont. Turning fouth, proceed by White-raife^ 
 a large karri of ftones, and near it are the remains 
 of a fmali circus, ten ftones of which are {tilt 
 ered. A little further on, are the veftiges of a 
 larger one of 22 paces by 25. Ail tb6 ftones, 
 except the pillar, are removed. It ftands on the 
 ^lmth fide of the circus, and the place is called 
 Moor-dovack. Here the vale of Bampton opt ns 
 fwcetly to the view, afcending to the louth, and 
 fprcading upwards in variety of .daleland beauty. 
 At the iDridge the road turns to the right, and 
 foon brings you upon Haws-water. 
 
 Mr. Young is the firft that fays any thing in 
 favour of this fweet but unfrequented lake. 
 
 " The approach to the lake is very pi£lurefque : 
 you pafs between two high ridges of mountains, 
 the banks finely fpread with inclofures ; upon 
 the right, two fmall beautiful hills, one of them 
 covered with wood ; they are moft pleafmgly 
 elecrant. The lake is a fniall one, above three 
 miles long, half a mile over in fome places, and 
 a quarter in others; almoft divided in the middle 
 by a promontory of inclofures, joined only by a 
 ftrait, fo that it confifts of two ftieets of water. 
 The upper end of it is fine, quite inclofed, with 
 bold, fteep, craggy rocks and mountains; and in 
 the centre of the end, a few little inclofures at 
 their feet, waving upward in a very beautiful 
 manner. The fouth fide of the lake is a noble 
 
 ridge 
 
THE LAKES. 163 
 
 5fidge of mountains, very bold and prominent 
 down to the water's edge. They bulge out in 
 the centre in a fine, bold, pendent, broad head, 
 that is venerably magnificent : and the view of 
 the firfl: fheet of the lake, lofing itfelf in the 
 fecond, among hills, rocks, woods, &c. is pic- 
 turefque. The oppofite (hore confifts of inclo- 
 fures, rifing one above another, and crowned 
 with craggy rocks*." 
 
 The narroweft part, by report, is 50 fathoms 
 deep, and a man may throw a ftone acrofs it. 
 Thwaite-force, or fall, is a fine catarad: on the 
 right, and oppofite to it, the firfi: Iheet of water 
 is loll among the rocks and wood, in a beautiful 
 manner. Bleak-how-crag, a ruinous rock, and 
 over it, Caftle-crag, a flaring fliattered rock, 
 have a formidable appearance ; and above all is 
 feen Kidflow-pike, on whofe fummit the clouds 
 weep into a crater of rock that is never empty. 
 On the eafliern fide, a front of prominent rock 
 bulges out in a folemn naked mafs, and a wav- 
 ing cataraa defcends the furrowed fide of a foft 
 green hill. The contrail is fine. — At Bleak- 
 how-crag there is a pleafing back view. 
 
 Above the chapel all is hopelefs wafte and de- 
 folatioh. The little vale contrafts into a glen, 
 llrewed with the precipitated ruins of moulder- 
 ing mountains, and the defi:ruaion of perpetual 
 waterfalls. 
 
 M 2 Kendal 
 * Six month^s Teur, vol. 3d, page 168. 
 
1^4 A GUIDE TO 
 
 Kendal is fourteen miles from the chapel, and 
 whoever chufes an Alpine ride may proceed to it 
 up this vale. From the chapel to the top of the 
 mountain is three miles, and the defcent into 
 Long-fledale is as much more. In approaching 
 the mountain, Haitcr-fell fcowls forward in all 
 the terrific grandeur oi hanging rock. As you 
 advance, a yawning chafm appears to divide it 
 upwards from the bafe, and within it is heard the 
 hoarfe noife of ingulphed waters. Ihe tumult 
 of cataraiSs and water-fa'.ls on all fides, adds 
 much to the folemnity of theft tremendous fcenes: 
 The path foon becomes winding, deep, and nar- 
 row, and is the only pofiible one acrofs the moun- 
 tain, The noife of a cataraft on the left accom- 
 panies vou during the afcent. On the fummit 
 of the mountain, you foon come in figlit of 
 Long-fledale, Lancafler-fands, &c. and in the 
 courfe of your defcent you will prefently be ac- 
 companied with a catarafl: on the right. The 
 Toad traverfes the mountain as on the other fide, 
 but is much better made, and wider, on account 
 of the flate taken from the fides of thefe moun- 
 tains, and carried to Kendal, &;c. The water- 
 falls on the right are extremely curious. You 
 enter Long-fledale between two ftiattered rocky 
 mountains. That on the left, Crowbarrow, is 
 not lefs terrible to look up at, when under it, 
 than any rock in Barrowfide or Borrowdale, and 
 it has covered a much larger fpace with ruins. 
 Here is every poflible variety of water-falls and 
 
 cataracts ; 
 
THE LAKES. 16$ 
 
 Mtarads ; the moft remarkable of which is on 
 the left. Over a moft tremendons wall of rock, 
 a mountain torrent, in one unbroken (lieet, leaps 
 headlong one hundred yards and more. The 
 whole Vale is narrow ; the hills rife fwift on each 
 hand ; their brows are wooded j their feet co- 
 vered with grafs, or cultivated, and their fummits 
 broken. I'he road along the vale is tolerable^ 
 and joins the great road at Watch-gate, about 
 four miles from Kendal. 
 
 Haws-water may be taken the firft in the 
 morning, and then crofs the mountains by the 
 road to Pooly-bridge for Ulls-water, and return 
 in the evening to 
 
 PENRITH*. 
 
 So much is already faid of this town, that little 
 remains new to be added here. The fituarion i« 
 pleafunt and open to the fouth. It is tolerably 
 well built, and rather a genteel than a trading 
 town. The town's people are polite and civil, 
 and the inns commodious and well ferved. 
 
 Saving the few refident families, the life of 
 this town is its being a thorough-fare. For, al- 
 though feated in the midft of a rich and fruitful 
 country, no manufadlurers have been induced 
 to fix here. Before the intereft of the filtei? 
 kingdoms became one, Penrith was a place 
 
 M 3 of 
 
 ^ (Bereda, Rav. Chor. Veieda, Anton. Inter.) 
 
A GUIDE TO 
 
 of uncertain tranquility, and too precarious for 
 the repofe of trade and manual induftry ; being- 
 better circumftanced for a place of arms and 
 military exercife. Yet fmce this happy change 
 of circumftances, no more than one branch of 
 tanning, and a fmall manufacture of checks have 
 taken place. This mull be owing cither to want 
 of attention in people of property, or of induftry 
 in the inhabitants. The latter is not to be fup- 
 pofed; for the Ipirit of agriculture, introduced 
 by the gentlemen of the environs, is in as flou- 
 rilhing a way amongft the farmers of this neigh- 
 bourhood, as in other parts of the kingdom. 
 The fuperfiuities of the market are bought up for 
 Kendal, where much of that produce is wanting 
 which fuperabounds here. 
 
 The mofl remarkable objects at Penrith are 
 the beacon, on the fummit of the hill above the 
 town, and the awful remains of a royal foftrefs, 
 on the creft of the rifmg ground that commands 
 the town. It is fuppofed to be an eredtion of 
 Henry VI. out of the ruins of a more ancient 
 ftrudture called Mayburgh ; but this is not very 
 probable, fmce (tones are eafier quarried here 
 than they could be got there. But as popular 
 records have generally fome fact to reft upon, 
 and fome truth in the bottom, fo fome facings 
 and other principal (tones taken from Mayburgh, 
 might give rife to the tradition. I here might 
 alfo have been a ftrong hold here in the time of 
 
 the 
 
THE LAKES. ^ 
 
 the Romans. At prefent the buildings are ruins 
 in the laft ftage. One flone-arched vault only 
 remains, that from its fituation appears to have 
 been the keep, now no longer terrible, fmce the 
 border fervice ceafed, and a mutual intercourfe 
 of trade and alliance happily took place of na- 
 tional reprifals, and family feuds. 
 
 The antiquity of this town is fuppofed to be 
 found in its name, being of Britilh derivation, 
 fiom Pen and Rhudd, fign fying, in the language, 
 a red head or hill ; and fuch is the colour ot ihe 
 hill above the town, and the ground and iiones 
 round it. But, with refped to fnuarion, it may 
 as well be derived from Pen, the head, and Khyii, 
 Si promontory, and fo be referred to the beacon 
 ihiil. It might however be judged a more ho- 
 nourable etymon to derive the name from Pen 
 and Rhydd, of Rhyddaw, to make free, and that 
 on account of fpecial fervice or fidelity to tl'.e 
 Roman government, the Britons of this town 
 were emancipated from the abjeft fiavery which 
 the nation in general were fubjeded to by their 
 tyrannical mailers. This, in their own language, 
 might be Penrhydd, and pronounced by the Bri- 
 tons, as by the Welch at this day, Penrith. 
 However this may be, it has been the happinefs 
 of this town to remain a royal franchife through 
 all the ages of feudal fervitude ; at lead ever 
 fmce the reign of Edward I. without the incum- 
 brance of a charter, and it is now peaceably 
 M 4 governed 
 
i68 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 governed by the fteward of the honours, and a 
 free jury. The honours of both town and caftk 
 belong to the Duke of Portland. 
 
 In the church-yard are fome fepulchral mo- 
 numents, which have long been the fubjeft of 
 antiquarian fpeculation, not yet decided. Thus 
 much is evident, that the pillars alluded to are of 
 one ftone, formed like the ancient fpears ; the 
 fhafts round, for about feven feet high ; above 
 that, they appear to be fquare, and to have ter- 
 minated in a point. They are about ten feet 
 high, ftand parallel to the church, diftant from 
 each other fifteen feet. The fpace between is 
 inclofed with circular ftones, by fome conjeftured 
 to reprefent boars. There remains vifible, on 
 the upper part of the pillars, fome ornamental 
 work, but no infcription, or figures, appear at 
 prefent, and the ftones are fo much fretted by 
 time, that it refts upon mere conjedure to af- 
 firm there ever were any. They probably mark 
 the tomb of fome great man, or family, before 
 the cuftom was introduced of interring within 
 churches, and are mod likely Britiib, or if not, 
 muft be Saxon. 
 
 There are many pleafing rides in the environs 
 of Penrith; moft of them lead to curious remains 
 of ancient monuments, or to modern rural im- 
 provements^ In Whinfield-park are the Count- 
 efs-pilldi:, the White-hart-tree, and the Three- 
 
 brothers-tree : 
 
THE LAKES. i% 
 
 brothers-tree : tHe firft particular is a filial tri- 
 bute of Ann, Countcfs Dowager of Pembroke, 
 to the memory of her pious mother, Mary, 
 Coimtefs Dowager of Cumberland ; and the 
 trees are the remains of large aged oaks, that 
 have long outlived their own ftrength. One of 
 them is upwards of nine yards in circumference. 
 Brougham-caflle is an awful ruin, the Brovonia- 
 cum of the Romans, and fmce that, the bulwark 
 of Weftmorland, on that fide, and the pride of 
 its earls, for many defcents. In the roof of a 
 gallery, is a ftone with a Roman fepulchral in- 
 fcription, much defaced. At Little-Salkeld ig 
 the largefl: druidical circle in the northern parts. 
 Near Emont-bridge is Arthur's-round-rable, and 
 at a fmall diftance from it is Mayburgh, both of 
 remote antiquity, and doubtful ufe. The firft 
 may be prefumed to have been a place of public 
 exhibition for martial exercifes, and the lacter 
 has the circumftances of a Britifh fort ; but the 
 rude pillar inclines fome to believe it the re- 
 mains of a druid-temple. It is entirely formed 
 of loofe ftones and pebbles, coUcfted from the 
 adjacent rivers and fields, lhat the height has 
 Once been great, may be collefted from the vaft 
 breadth of the bafe, increafed by the fall of ftones 
 from the top. It inclofes a circular area of 80 
 yards or more, and near the middle ftands a red 
 ftone, upwards of three yards high. The en- 
 trance is on the eaftern fide, and opens to afweet 
 view of Brougham-houfe, to which the rude pill^c 
 
 when 
 
170 A GUIDE TO 
 
 when whitened (and of this Mr. Brougham Is 
 very careful) is a fine obeliflc. If the name of 
 this very extraordinary monument was Brein- 
 gwin, then Mr. Pennant, from Rowland, has 
 pointed out its ufe, viz. " a fupreme confiftory 
 of druidical adminiftration, as the Britifli name 
 imports." But if the prefent name be a Saxon 
 corruption of the ancient name, which probal^ly 
 was Myfirion, by the Saxons pronounced May- 
 birion, or Maybir, and to bring it ftill nearer to 
 their own language, Mayburgh, then this con- 
 jeflure being admitted, it will fignify a place 
 of ftudy and contemplation*. Such places the 
 druids had, and were the public fchools delfined 
 for the colloqui'tl .inflru6lion of pupils in my- 
 fteries of religion, and the arcana of civil go- 
 vernment. Druidical remains are frequent in 
 this neighbourhood, and many of them fimilar ; 
 but Mayburgh is fuch a huge and fingular con- 
 ftrudion, that it muft have been defigned for 
 fome extraordinary ufe. 
 
 From the beacon the views are many, all ex- 
 tenfive and vaft. The eye is in the centre of a 
 plain, inclofed with a circle of flupendous moun- 
 tains of various forms. The plain is adorned 
 with many ancient towns, and more ancient 
 caftles, flations, and caftellums, where the Ro- 
 man eagle long difplayed her wings ; but which 
 are now polfelfed by a happier people, who 
 
 enjoy, 
 
 ^ Mona antiqua, page 84. 
 
THE LAKES. 171 
 
 ciijoy, with freedom, all the refinements of li- 
 beral talle, and flourishing induftry. 
 
 Haws-water may be conveniently vifited from 
 Penrith, returning from it by the ruins of Shap 
 (or Heppe) abbey, to Shap. The remains of 
 this ancient ftruaure are inconfiderable, yet pic- 
 turefque. A fquare tower, with piked windows, 
 is the chief part of the ruins, and does honour 
 to the reign of King John, when it was built 
 for canons of the prKmonftratcnfian order, that 
 had been firft placed at Prefton-patrick, near 
 Kendal, by Thomas, fon of Gofpatrick. 
 
 This abbey was dedicated by the firft founder 
 to St. Mary Magdalene, and he endowed it with 
 a large portion of his lands, in Prefton, near 
 Kendal His fon tranflated it to Magdalene 
 vale, near Shap, and further endowed it with 
 the lands of Karl, or Karlwath. Robert de 
 Viteripont (Vipont) firft Lord of Weftmorland, 
 confirmed the precedent grants, and added, to 
 that of Matilda his mother, and Ive his brother, 
 the tithes of all his mills, and of the game killed 
 in all his lands, in Weftmorland. This grant 
 is dated on Saturday, April 24, in the 13th of 
 King John. 
 
 From this fequeftered fpot continue the route 
 to the village of Shap, a proper place for refrefh- 
 ment, before you face Shap fells, a dreary me- 
 lancholy 
 
A GUIDE TO 
 
 lancholy tra6l of twelve miles*. On the eaft fide 
 of the road, foon after you leave the village, ob- 
 ferve a double range of huge granites, pitched 
 
 in 
 
 * This elevated trad being pretty near the centre of Weft- 
 morland, and where we may luppofe its Genius moft likely 
 to fit enthroned, it may afford the reader a feafonable anuifL'- 
 ment to perufe in this place a little ode addrefled to that ima- 
 ginary being, by a late elegant bard, when on one of his vilka 
 ti> his native country. 
 
 Ode to the Genius of Wejlmorland. 
 
 Hail hidden Power of thefe wild groves, 
 Thefe uncouth rocks, and mountains grey^: 
 Where oft, as fades the clofing day, 
 
 The family of Fancy roves. 
 
 In what lone cave, what facred cell, 
 Coaevel with the birth of time, 
 Wrapt in high cares, and thought fubltmc. 
 
 In awful filence doft thou dwell ? 
 
 Oft in the depth of winter's reign. 
 
 As blew the bleak winds o'er the dale. 
 Moaning along the diftant gale. 
 
 Has Fancy heard thy voice complain. 
 
 Oft in the dark wood's lonely way. 
 Swift has fhe feen thee glancing by; 
 Or down the fummer evening fky. 
 
 Sporting in clouds of gilded day.. 
 
 I caught from thee the facred fire 
 
 That glow'd within my youthful brcaft 
 Thofe thoughts too high to be exprcft, 
 
 ®cnius, if thoB did'ft once infpirc, 
 
 O pleafM 
 
THE LAKES. 175 
 
 in the ground, and at fome diftance from each 
 other, leading to circles of fmall (tones, and en- 
 creafing the fpace between the rows as they ap- 
 proach the circles, where the avenue is about 27 
 paces wide. They are fuppofed to have run quite 
 through the village, and terminated in a point. 
 It has long embarrafled the antiquaries, what to 
 call this very uncommon monument of ancient 
 date. Mr. Pennant has given a plaufible expla- 
 nation of it from Olaus Magnus^ and fuppofes the 
 rows of granites to be the recording ftones of a 
 Danifh victory obtained on the fpot, and the ftony 
 circles to be grateful tributes to the memory of 
 confanguineous heroes flain in the action. 
 
 There is at a fmall diftance to the eaft from 
 thefe ftones a fpring, called Shap-fpaw, in fmell 
 and tafte like that of Harrowgate, and much 
 frequented by the people of the country for 
 fcorbutic complaints, and eruptions of the fkin. 
 Leaving this gloomy region of black moors and 
 fhapelefs mountains behind you, you approach 
 a charming vale, which Mr. Young in his elegant 
 nianner defer ibes thus, 
 
 " After 
 
 O pleaf'd accept this votive lay, 
 That in my native ihades retir'd. 
 And once, once more by the infpir'd 
 Jn gratitude I pay. 
 Sec Langborne's Efu/tens of Friend/htp and Fancy^ 
 
 Vol. I. Let. 25. 
 
 3C 
 
£74 A GUIDE TO 
 
 " After croffing this dreary tratl, the firfl ap- 
 pearance of a good country is mod exquiHtely 
 fine ; about three miles from Kendal, you at once 
 look down from off" this defolate country upon 
 one of the fineft Jandfcapes in the world ; a noble 
 range of fertile inclofures, richly enamelled with 
 molt beautiful verdure : and coming to the brow 
 of the hill, have a mod elegant pifturefque view of 
 a variegated trad of waving inclofures, fpreading 
 over hills, and hanging to the eye in the moft 
 pidlurefque and pleafing manner that fancy can 
 conceive : three hills in particular are overlooked, 
 cut into inclofures in a charming ftile, of them- 
 felves forming a mod elegant landfcape, and wor- 
 thy the imitation of thofe who would give the 
 «mbellifhments of art to the fmiplicity of nature/' 
 
 The ftation from whence this defcription is 
 taken, is about the midway between the third 
 and fourth mile-ftone, on the top of a rock on 
 the eaft fide of the road, called Stone-crag, which 
 cannot be miftaken. The three hills referred to 
 in the defcription, are on the near-ground of the 
 landfcape. There are many beautiful hills and 
 knolls fcattered about the valley; fome culti- 
 vated, others covered with wood, or fhining in 
 the fofteft verdure. But the moft remarkable 
 one for pidurefque form, is an oval green hill 
 crowned with the ruins of a caftle ; it divides 
 the valley, and overlooks a town hanging on the 
 fide of a fteep mountain : this is 
 
 KENDAI 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 KENDAL*. 
 
 The approach to it from the north is pleafant. 
 A noble river, the Kent, is difcovered flowing 
 briikly through fertile fields, and vifiting the town 
 in its whole length. It is crofled by a bridge 
 more venerable than handfome, where three great 
 roads coincide, from Scdbergh, Kirkby-Stephen, 
 and Penrith. The main fl:reet leading from the 
 bridge flopes upwards to the centre of the town, 
 where it jons another principal ftreet, which falls 
 and contracts itfelf into an inconvenient palTagef , 
 with a gentle declivity both ways, and is a mile 
 in length, and of a fpacious breadth. Was an area 
 for a market-place opened at the incidence of 
 thefe two ftreets, it would be a noble improve- 
 ment. The entrance from the fouth is by ano- 
 ther bridge, which makes ^ fliort aukward turn 
 into the fuberbs, but after that, the ftreet opens 
 well, and the town has a chearful appearance. 
 
 Here is a workhoufe for the poor, which for 
 ncatnefs and ceconomy, exceeds mod of the kind 
 in the kingdom {. The principal inns are gen- 
 teel, commodious, and plentifully ferved. 
 
 The 
 
 * (Concangium, Not. Imp.) 
 
 f Tins pafTage is now widened, and a new ftreet has lately- 
 been opened from near the centre of the town, to the river fide, 
 which has much improved the road through it for carriages. 
 
 4: There have alfo lately been erefted near the middle of 
 this town, butcher's ftiambles, faid to be the n^ateft and moft 
 convenient of any in the north of England, 
 
176 A GUIDE TO 
 
 The objedts moft worthy of notice here are the 
 manufaaurcs. The chief of thefe are of Kendal- 
 cottons (a coarfe woollen cloth) of linfeys, and 
 of knit worfted (lockings. Alfo a confiderablc 
 tannery is carried on in this town. The leffer 
 manufactures are, of fifli hooks, of wafte filk, 
 (which is received from London, and after fcour- 
 ing, combing and fpinning, is returned) and of 
 wool cards, in which branch confiderable im- 
 provements have been made by the curious ma- 
 chines invented here for that purpofe. There 
 are other articles of induflry well worth feeing ; 
 as the mills for fcouring, fulling, and frizing 
 cloth, for cutting and rafping dying wood, &c. 
 But what is moft to the credit of this place, 
 is, that notwithftanding many inconveniences, 
 which this town has ever laboured under, the 
 manufactures have all along continued to flourifii, 
 and have of late years been greatly increafed by 
 the fpirit and induftry of the inhabitants. Thefe 
 manufactures are particularly noticed fo early as 
 the reign of King Richard II. and Henry IV. 
 when fpecial laws were ena£ted for the better 
 regulation of the Kendal cloths, &c*. 
 
 When 
 
 * A navigable canal is now making from Kendal, by way 
 «f Burton, Lancafter, Gariiang, and Prefton, to communi- 
 cate with the canals in the fouth of Lancafhire, and to go 
 through the great coal country in the neighbourhood of 
 Chorley and Wigan. It is expeAed that, when completed, 
 it will be of the greateft utihty to the trade, manufaaures, 
 and agriculture of the «o«ntry : the fine blue Hate, which 
 
 iibotinds 
 
THE LAKES. j-7 
 
 When William the conqueror gave the barony 
 of Kendal to Ivo de Taillebois, the inhabitants of 
 the town we re villain-tenants of the baronial lord ; 
 but one of his fucceffors emancipated them, and 
 confirmed their burgages to them, by charter. 
 Qiieen Elizabeth, in the i8th year of her reign, 
 creeled it into a corporation, by the name of 
 alderman and burgelTes ; and afterwards King 
 James I. incorporrated it with a mayor, 12 al- 
 dermen, and 24 capital burgelTes. 
 
 Mr. Gray's defcription of this town is'equally 
 injurious to it and his memory ; but his account 
 of the church and caftle is wor^h tranfcribing. 
 " Near the end of the town (lands a handlbme 
 houfe of Colonel Wilfon's*, and adjoining to it, 
 the church, a very large Gothic fabrick, with a 
 fquare tower; it has no particular ornaments, but 
 double aifles, and at the eaft end four chapels or 
 choirs.'* Mr. Gray's account then proceeds to 
 the infide of the church |, which he defcribes 
 
 N with 
 
 abounds in fome of the Weftmorland mountains, and the lime- 
 ftone, which is inexhauftahle, will be thereby conveyed from 
 the north, being articles much wanted in the fouth parts of 
 the line ; and coal, equally wanted in the north, will be 
 returned. 
 
 * This is called Abbot-Hall, and is now the property of 
 Alan Chambre, Efq. 
 
 t The following epitaph, compofed for himfelf by Mr. 
 Ralph Tirer, ricar of Kendal (who died in 1627} and placed 
 
 list 
 
178 ' A GUIDE TO 
 
 with his ufual accuracy and eafe. Speaking of 
 the four chapels or choirs, he fays, " there is 
 one of Parrs, another of the Stricklands, the 
 third is the proper choir of the church, and the 
 fourth of the BelUnghams, a family now extind. 
 The BelHnghams came into Weftmorland before 
 the reign of Henry VII. and were feated at 
 Burnefide*. In the reign of King Henry VIII. 
 Adam . Bellingham purchafed of the King the 
 20th part of a knight's fee in^Ht-lfington, parcel 
 of the pofl'efTion of Henry Duke of Richmond, 
 and of Sir John Lumley (Lord Lumley) which 
 his father, Thomas Bellingham, had farmed of 
 the crown ; he was fucceeded by his fon, James 
 Bellingham, who ereded the tomb in the Bel- 
 lingham's chapeL There is an altar tomb of one 
 of them (viz. Adam Bellingham) dated 1577, 
 
 with 
 
 in the choir, may be worth the reader's perufal, on account 
 of its iqiialntnefs, and yet uncommon hiitorical precifion. 
 
 London bredd me, Weftminfter fedd me, 
 Cambridge fped me, my fifter wed me. 
 Study taught me, Liuing fought me, 
 Learning brought me, Kendal caught me. 
 Labour prefled me, Sicknes diftrefled me. 
 Death oppreffed me, & Graue pofTefled me, 
 God lirft gaue me, Chrift did faue me, 
 I'^arth did craue me, & Heauen would haue me. 
 
 X. 
 
 "■ III the vcign of King Edward II. Richard Bellingham 
 mairied Margaret daughter and heirefs of Gilbert Burnfhead, 
 *vf EurndiCad, Knt, near Kendal. 
 
THE LAKES. 179 
 
 with a flat brafs arms and quarterings ; and in 
 the window their arms alone, argent, a hunting 
 horn fable, ftrung gules. , In the Strickland's 
 chapel are feveral modern monuments, and ano- 
 ther old altar tomb, not belonging to the family: 
 on the fide of it, a fefs dancette between ten bil- 
 lets deincourt. This tomb is probably of Ralph 
 D'Aincourt, who, in the reign of King John, 
 married Helen, daughter of Anfelm de Furnefs, 
 whofe daughter and fole heirefs, EHzabeth D'Ain- 
 court, was married to William, fon and heir of 
 Sir Robert de Strickland, of Great-Strickland, 
 Knt. 23d of Henry III. The fon and heir was 
 Walter de Strickland, who lived in the reign of 
 Edward I. was poffelTed of the fortunes of An- 
 felm de Furnefs and D'Aincourt in Weftmorland, 
 and ereded the above tomb, to the memory of 
 his grandfather, Ralph D'Aincourt. The de- 
 pendents of the faid Walter de Strickland have 
 lived at Sizergh, in this neighbourhood, ever 
 fmce, and this chapel is the family burial place. 
 In Parr's chapel is a third altar tomb, in the 
 corner, no figure or infcription, but on the fide, 
 cut in flone, an efcutcheon of Rofs of Kendal, 
 three water-budgets, quarterring Parr, two bars 
 in a bordure engrailed ; ^dly, an efcutcheon, 
 vaire, a fefs for marmionj jdly, an elcutcheon, 
 three chevronels braced, and a chief, which I 
 take for Fitzhugh : at the foot is an efcutcheon, 
 furrounded with the garter, bearing Rofs and 
 Parr quarterly, quartering the other two before- 
 N 2 mentioned. 
 
i8o A GUIDE TO 
 
 mentioned. I have no books to look in, there- 
 fore cannot fay whether this is Lord Parr, of 
 Kendal, Queen Catharine's father, or her bro- 
 ther, the Marquis of Northasppfon. Perhaps it 
 is a cenotaph for the latter, who was buiitd at 
 Warwick, 1571." 
 
 The caflle he defcribes thus. " The remains 
 of the caflle are feated on a fine hill, on the fide 
 of the river oppofite to the town ; almofl the 
 whole inclofure wall remains, with four towers, 
 two fquare and two round, but their upper parts 
 and embattlements are demoliflied : it is of rough 
 ftone and cement, without any ornament or 
 arms, round, inclofing a court of the like form, 
 and furrounded by a moat ; nor ever could it 
 have been larger than it is, for there are no 
 traces of out-works. There is a good view of 
 the town and river, with a fe;rtile open valley 
 through which it winds." 
 
 Had Mr. Grav afcended from the end of Stra- 
 
 J 
 
 mongate -bridge to the caflle, which was the only 
 way to it when in its glory, and is the eafieT: at 
 prefent, he would have obferved a fquare area 
 that had been fortified with a deep moat, and 
 connected to the caflle by a draw-bridge, where 
 was probably the bafe-court. Ihe Hones now 
 are entirely removed, and the ground levelled, 
 " and laughing Ceres reatfumes the land." The 
 prefent flrudure was undoubtedly raifed by the 
 
 firfl 
 
THE LAKES. i§i 
 
 firfl: barons of Kendal, arid probably on the ruins 
 of a Roman jl:ai:ion ; this being the moft eligible 
 fite in the country for a fummer encampment, 
 and at a fmall diftance from Watercrook. There 
 are ilill Tome remains of a dark red freeflone, 
 ufcd in facings, and in the doors and windows, 
 that have been brou,^ht from the environs of 
 Penrith, more probably by the Romans, than by 
 cither the Saxon or Norman lords. Fame fays 
 this caftle held out againfl Oliver Cromwell, and 
 was battered from the Cadle-law-hill, but this is 
 notfo probable, as that its prefent ruinous ftate 
 is owing to the jealoufy of that ufurper. 
 
 There is k mdfl: pleafant morning ride of five 
 miles, down the eaft fide of the river. Waetr- 
 crook is one mile dillant, on the right, clofe by 
 the fide of the Kent. This is the Concangium 
 of the Romans, where a body of the Vigilatores 
 (or watchmen) kept guard, and was the inter- 
 mediate ftation betwixt the Di£lis at Amblefide, 
 and the garrifon at Overborough. The line of 
 the fofs may be ftill traced, though much defaced 
 by the plow. Altars, coins, and infcribed flones 
 have been found here. And in the wall of the 
 barn, on the very area of the ftation, is ftill le- 
 gible, the infcription preferved by Mr. Horfley *, 
 to the memory of two freed-men, with an im- 
 precation againft any one who fhould contami- 
 nate their fepulchrc, and a fine to the fifcal. 
 
 N 3 There 
 
 * £ri(. page 300. 
 
A GUIDE TO 
 
 There is alfo an altar without an infcription, and 
 a Silenus without a head. At a fmall diftance 
 is a pyramidal knoll, crowned with a fingle tree, 
 called Sattury, where probably fomething dedi- 
 cated to the god Saturn has flood. Pafs through 
 the village of Natland, and on the crell of a 
 green hill, on the left, called Helm, are the vef- 
 tiges of a caftellum, called Caflle-fteads, which, 
 during the refidence of the watchmen at Water- 
 crook, correfponded (by fmoke ia the day, and 
 flame in the night) with the garrifon at Lancaf- 
 ter, by the beacon on Warton-crag. There is a 
 houfe at a diftance to the north, called Watch- 
 houfe, where Roman coins have been found. 
 
 Proceed through Sedgwick*, and fall in with 
 the courfe of the river at Force-bridge, and from 
 the crown of it, have a very fingular romantic 
 view of the rivef both ways, working its paflage 
 in a narrow deep channel of rocks, hanging over 
 it in variety of forms, and ftreaming a thoufand 
 rills into the flood. The rocks in the bottom are 
 fl:rangely excavated into deep holes of various 
 fliapes, which, when the river is low, remain full 
 of water, and from their depth are black as ink. 
 The bridge is one bold arch, fupported by the 
 oppofite rocks, of unknown antiquity. A mantle 
 of ivy vails its ancient front, and gives it a mod 
 venerable appearance. If you ride down the 
 
 weft 
 
 * Near this place are large works for the manufadory of 
 gunpowder. 
 
THE LAKES. 183 
 
 weft fide of the river from the bridge, as far as 
 the fors;e, to fee the water-fall of the whole river, 
 let it be remembered, that the ftream is much 
 impaired in beauty fince the forge was ereded. 
 And if, from the end of the uppermoft houfe, 
 you look up between two trees in the midft of 
 the channel*, you will fee the whole body of the 
 river iffuing from a fable cavern, and tumbling 
 over a rock, of height juft fufficient to convert 
 it into froth as white as fnow, and behind it, 
 the arch of the bridge is partly catched in a 
 difpofition that forms a very uncommon alfem- 
 blage of pidurefque beauties. This is feen in 
 higheft perfection when the ftream is full. Re- 
 turn to the bridge, and ride down the eaft fide 
 
 of the river to Levens-park. In order to ride 
 
 through the park, you muft be favoured with a 
 key from Kendal. 
 
 Here is one of the fweeteft fpots that fancy 
 can imagine. The woods, the rocks, the river, 
 the grounds, are rivals in beauty of ftilc, and 
 variety of contraft. The bends of the river, the 
 bulging of rocks over it, under which in fome 
 places it retires in hafte, and again breaks out 
 in a calm and fpreading ftream, are matchlefs 
 beauties. The ground in fome places is bold, 
 and hangs abruptly over the river, or falls into 
 gentle flopes, and eafy plains. All is variety, 
 with pleafing tranfition. Thickets cover the 
 brows i ancient thorns, and more ancient oaks, 
 N 4 are 
 
184 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 are fcattered over the plain, and clumps, and lb» 
 litary beach trees of enormous fize, equal, if not 
 furpais, any thing the Chikern-hills can boaft. 
 The park is well ifoeked with fallow-deer. The 
 fide of the Kent is famous for petiiFying fprings, 
 that incruft vegetable bodies, as mofs, leaves of 
 trees, &c. There is one in the park, called the 
 Bropping-well. 
 
 At a fmall diftance is Hincafler, where the 
 Romans had a camp. Within the park is Kirk- 
 fliead, mentioned by Camden as a place fre- 
 quented by the Romans, yet nothing of late 
 belonging to that people has been difcovered 
 at either place. Levens-hall was the feat of a 
 family of that name, for many ages ; then of 
 Redman, for feveral defcents ; afterwards it came 
 to Bellingham, and Adam, or his fon James 
 Bellingham gave it the prefent form in the reign 
 of Queen Elizabeth, and in cafte of carvings in 
 wood attempted to outdo his cotemporary, Wal- 
 ter Strickland, Efq. of Sizergh. After Belling- 
 ham it came to Colonel Graham, and from hrs 
 daughter, by marriage, to the anceftor of the 
 late noble poflcfTor *. 
 
 Return 
 
 * The Earl of SufFolk. The gardens belonging to this 
 
 feat are rather curious in the old ftile, and faid to have 
 been planned by the gardener of James II. who refided here 
 with Colonel Graham during fome part of the troubles of hsp. 
 royal mafter. 
 
THE LAKES. 185 
 
 Return by Levens -bridge, to Kendal, five 
 miles. Have a new view of the valley, and 
 tlie eafl lide of Kent. At the park-gate have 
 a charming view of Sizergh, (hewing itfelf to 
 the morning fun, and appearing to advantage 
 from an elevated fite under a bold and wooded 
 back-ground. The tower was built in the reign 
 of Henry III. or Edward I. by Sir William 
 Strickland, who had married Elizabeth, the 
 general heirefs of Ralph D'Aincourt. This, is 
 evident from an efcutcheon cut in ftone, on the 
 weft: fide of the tower, and hung cornerwife, 
 B'Aincourt quartering Strickland, three efcalop 
 fnells, the creft, on a clofe helmet, a full-topt 
 holly-bufh. The fame arc the arms of the fa- 
 mily at this time, and this has been their chief 
 refidence ever fmce *. 
 
 Before you leave Kendal vifit the Caftle-law- 
 hill. This is an artificial mount, that overlooks 
 the town, and faces the calUe, and furpalTes it in 
 anriquity, being one of thofe hills called Laws^ 
 where in ancient times diftributive juftice was 
 
 adminifliered. 
 
 * Sizcrgh-hall is a venerable old buiiding, in a pleafant li^ 
 tuation, formed like the reft in ancient time, for a place of 
 defence. The tower is a fqiiare building, defended by two 
 fquare turrets and battlements. One of them is over the 
 great entrance, and has a guard room capable of containing 
 ten or a dozen men with embrafures. The winding ftair-cafe 
 terminates in a turret, which defends the other entrance. 
 
 Burn's Wejlmorland, 
 
i86 A GUIDE TO 
 
 adminiftered. From its prefent appearance it 
 feems to have been converted to different pur- 
 pofes, but though v/e\\ fituated as a watch upon 
 the caftle, it could never be a proper place to 
 batter it from, as has been reported*. 
 
 To Lancafter, by Burton in Kendal f, is 21 
 miles. Obferve on the left, before you reach 
 
 Burton, 
 
 * An obeliflc was erefted on the top of this hill, by a 
 fubfcription of the inhabitants of Kendal, in 1788, which, 
 feen froni almoft every part of the vale, is a handfome objecl, 
 and being the centenary of the revolution in 1688, has the 
 following infcription. 
 
 SACRED TO LIBERTY. 
 THIS OBELISK 
 WAS ERECTED IN THE YEAR I788, 
 
 IN MEMORY OF 
 
 THE REVOLUTION IN 1688. 
 
 f (Coccium, Rav. Chor.) — On the edge of a mountain, 
 about a mile and a half to the north of this town, is a natural 
 curiofity, called Claythrop-clints, or Curwenwood-kins, v;hich 
 many tourifts would probably like to fee. It confifts of a 
 large plain of naked limeftone rock, a little inclined to the 
 horizon, which has evidently once been one continued calca- 
 rious mafs, in a ftate of foftnefs like that of mud at the bot- 
 tom of a pond. It is now deeply rent with a number of 
 filTures, of 6, 8, or 10 inches wide, juft in the form of thofe 
 •which take place in clay or mud that is dried in the fun. It 
 alfo exhibits fuch channels in its furface, as can only be ac- 
 counted for by fuppofing them formed by the ebbing of copi- 
 ous waters (probably thofe of the Deluge) before the matter 
 
 was 
 
THE LAKES. 187 
 
 Burton, Farlton-knot*, a beautiful naked lime- 
 ftoiie mountain, faid to refemble much in form 
 the rock of Gibralter. 
 
 Between Burton and Lancafter, fee Dunald- 
 mill-holef, a fubterraneous cavern, with a 
 brook running through it, and many curious 
 petrifactions, in ftile and kind like thofe in 
 Derbyfhirc. 
 
 LANCASTER— 
 Finis chartaque viaque, 
 
 was become bard. It is five or fix hundred yards in length, 
 and about two hundred in breadth. There are feveral other 
 liraeftone plains of the fame kind in the neighbourhood, but 
 this is the moft remarkable and extenfive. 
 
 In the crevices of the rocks, the botanift may meet with 
 the Belladonna, or Solanum Lethale (the Deadly Night- 
 fliade) and fome other curious plants. 
 
 X. 
 
 * By a trigonometrical procefs, the height of this mountain 
 was found to be 594 feet above the level of the turnpike. 
 
 f This place is particularly defcribed in Article V. of the 
 following Addenda. 
 
 A VIEW 
 
i.88 A GUIDE TO 
 
 A VIEW OF THE 
 
 HEIGHT OF THE MOUNTAINS, 
 
 SEEN IN THIS TOUR, 
 And the raoft remarkable ones in other parts of the world, 
 
 TAKEN FROM THE tATEST SURVEYS, 
 
 Heights of mountains above the level of the fea. 
 By Mr. Waddington, A. D. 1770. 
 
 FEET 
 
 Showden, in Wales 3456 
 
 Whernfide - - 4050 
 
 Pendle-hill 34^1 
 
 Pennygant - - .- ^q^q 
 
 Ingleborough 39^7 
 
 By Mr. Donald. 
 
 Helvellyn - 3324 
 
 Skiddaw 3270 
 
 Crofs-fell - -- 3390 
 
 Saddleback - ooaS 
 
 In North Britain. 
 
 Pennant's Tour in Scotland^ 1769. 
 
 Ben-lomond 3240 
 
 Benevifli 
 
 * Mr. Pennant makes Snowden 3568 feet high. 
 
THE LAKES. 189 
 
 FEET 
 
 Benevifh ---------- 435^ 
 
 Ben-y-bourd ftiil higher*. 
 Laghin-y-gair. 
 Benewewifh |. 
 
 Heights above the level of the Meditterranean fea. 
 
 By M. T. Bourrit. 
 
 L^ke of Geneva, at the lower paflage of 
 
 the Rhone i i^4; 
 
 Summit of Dole, the higheft mountain 
 
 of Jura - . - - 5400 
 
 Valley of Chamouni, in Savoy - - - 3563 
 Ridge de Brevin, a Glacier in the valley 
 
 of Chamouni - - 8847 
 
 Valley of Mountainvert, in Savoy - - 5595 
 
 Abbey of Sixt, ibid 2391 
 
 Summit of Grenier 8346 
 
 Summit of Grenarion 8874 
 
 Summit of Buet 9945 
 
 Mount Blanc 15^43 
 
 Mount iEtna -------- 12000 
 
 Heights above the level of the ocean, 
 
 Higheft part of the Table, at the Cape of 
 
 Good Hope - - - 3459 
 
 Pike Rucio, in the ifland of Madeira - 5067 
 
 Pike 
 
 * From its fummit to the fea is a quick defcent of feventy 
 miles. 
 
 f The laft three mountains arc never without faow. 
 
19© 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 FEET 
 
 Pike TenerifFe 13197 
 The fame according to Dr. Heberden in 
 
 Madeira --j 5396 
 
 Summit of Cotopaxi, in the province of 
 Quito, according to Don Antonio de 
 XJUoa - - - 19929 
 
 Carambour, under the equator - - _ 1 8000 
 
 Chimboraco - 19320 
 
 Petchincha 14580 
 
 Carafon 14820 
 
 From this furvey of mountains it appears that 
 Whernfide is the highefl in South Britain, yet 
 below the point of permanent fnow. It has been 
 obferved, by the French academicians, that a- 
 mongfl: the Cordilleras, in the province of Quito, 
 Petchincha and Carafon are the highefl: accelfible 
 mountains, and that all of greater heights arg 
 vefted with eternal fnow. 
 
 On the Glaciers fnow is permanent at a much 
 inferior height; and where the fun's rays fall 
 more obHquely, lefs height is found the boundary 
 between temporary and eternal fnow. But no 
 mountain in South Britain touches the zone of 
 barrennefs, that intervenes between this region 
 and the limits of vegetation. Sheep pafture the 
 fummits of Snowden, Helvellyn, and Skiddaw, 
 and barrennefs only prevails where rock and pre- 
 cipice are the invincible obftacles to vegetation. 
 
 ROADS 
 
THE LAKES. 
 
 191 
 
 ROADS 
 
 FROM 
 
 LANCASTER TO THE LAKES. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 
 Lancafter. 
 
 3 
 
 Hea-bank. 
 
 9 
 
 Over Lancafter-fands to Carter-houfe. 
 
 2 
 
 Cartmel or Flookburgh. 
 
 2 
 
 Holker-gate. 
 
 3 
 
 Over Ulverfton-fands to Carter-houfe. 
 
 I 
 
 Ulverfton. 
 
 12 
 
 Dalton, Furnefs-abbey, and back to Ulverfton^, 
 
 4 
 
 Penny-bridge. 
 
 2 
 
 Lowick-bridge. 
 
 Or 5 
 
 from Ulverfton to Lowick-bridge. 
 
 ^k 
 
 Through Nibthwaite to Conifton Water-foot. 
 
 6 
 
 Conifton Water-head. 
 
 3 
 
 HawkOiead. 
 
 5 
 
 To Amblefide, 
 
 Or 4 
 
 to the ferry on Windermere-water. 
 
 I 
 
 Bownefs acrofs Windernacre-water. 
 
 6 
 
 Amblelide. 
 
 2 
 
 Rydal. 
 
 2 
 
 Grafmere. 
 
 2^ 
 
 Dunmail-raife-ftones. 
 
 3l 
 
 Dale-head. 
 
 4i 
 
 Caftle-rigg. 
 
 I 
 
 Kefwick. 
 
 3 
 
 Lowdore water-fall. 
 
 I 
 
 Grange. 
 
 I 
 
 Bowdar-ftone, Caftle-hill. 
 
 2^ 
 
 RoAhwftite; 
 
 2|- Scatkwaitc. 
 
192 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 MILES. 
 
 2~ Seathwaite. 
 9 KefwicTc. 
 
 8 Down Baflenthvvaite-water, by Bownefs, Bradnefs^- 
 
 Scarenefs, to Armathwaite. 
 
 9 Up the other fide of the lake to Kefwick. 
 
 5 Keflcadale. 
 
 3 Buttermere. 
 
 6 Down Cromack-water to Lorton. 
 7- Kefwick. 
 
 4 Threlkeld. 
 
 6 Wliitbarrow. 
 I Penruddock. 
 6| Penrith. 
 
 5 Dunmallet, at the foot of Ulls-water, and PooI)> 
 
 bridge. 
 
 9 Watermillock, Gowbarrow-paik, Airy-bridge, to 
 
 the head of Ulls-water. 
 9 Amblefide. 
 Or 14 to Penrith. 
 
 105 By Lowther, Aflcham, and Baippton, to Haws- 
 water. 
 
 15 From the head of Haws-water, through Long- 
 fledale, to Kendal. 
 Or 5 to Shap, by Rofgil and Shap-abbey. 
 
 7 Hawfe-foot. 
 
 8 Kendal. 
 
 10 Down the eaft fide of Kent to Levens-park, and 
 
 return to Kendal by Sizergh. 
 It Burton in Kendal. 
 
 1 1 Lancafter. 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 IT having been judged, that the principal de- 
 tached pieces, which have appeared on the 
 fubjedl of the lakes, by efteemed writers, if col- 
 lefted together, might accommodate the reader, 
 and contribute to the chief purpofe of this ma- 
 nual, — they are here fubjoined, in the order they 
 were fir ll publifhed, along with fome other con- 
 nected articles, and fimilar defcriptions, which 
 relate to the fame country. X. 
 
 ARTICLE!. 
 Dr. brown's letter, 
 
 DESCRIBING THE VALE AND LAKE OF KESWICK. 
 
 IN my way to the north from Hagley, I pafled thro' Dove- 
 dale ; and to fay the ti uth, was difappointed in it. When 
 I came to Buxton, I vilked another or two of thfir romantic 
 fcenes ; but thefe a-e inffrior to Dovedale. They arc but 
 poor miniatures of Kefvvick ; which exceeds them more in 
 grandeur than I can give you to imagine ; and more, if pof- 
 lible, in beauty than in grandeur. 
 
 Inftcad of the narrow flip of valley which is feen at Dove- 
 dale, you have at Kcfwick a vad amphitheatre, in circuaifer- 
 cnce above twenty miles. Xnftead of a meagre rivulet, a noble 
 living lake, ten miles round, of an oblong form, adurned with 
 
 O 2 a variety- 
 
196 ADDENDA. 
 
 a vraiety of wooded iflands. The rocks indeed of Dovedale 
 are finely wild, pointed and irregular ; but the hills are both 
 little and unanirxiated ; and the margin of the brook is poorly 
 edged with weeds, morafs, and brufhwood. — But at Kefwick, 
 you will on one fide of the lake, fee a rich and beautiful land^ 
 fcape of cultivated fields, rifing to the eye, in fine inequalities, 
 with noble groves of oak, happily diiperfed, and climbing the 
 adjacent hills, fhade above fhade, in the moft various and 
 pi6lurefque forms. On the oppofite fhore you will find 
 rocks and cliffs of ftupendous height, hanging broken over 
 the lake in horrible grandeur, fome of them a thoufand feet 
 Jiigh, the vyoods climbing up their fteep and fiiaggy fides, 
 where mortal foot never yet approached. On thefe dreadful 
 heights the eagles build their nefts ; a variety of water-falls 
 are feen pouring from their fummits, and tumbling in vaft 
 iheets from rock 10 rock in rude and terrible magnificence : 
 while on all fides of this immenfe amphitheatre the lofty- 
 mountains rife round, piercing the clouds in fhapes as fpiry 
 and fantaftic, as the very rocks of Dovedale. — To this I muft 
 add the frequent and bold projeiiion of the cliffs into the 
 lake, formipg noble bays and promontories : ir; other parts 
 they finely retire from it, and often open in abrupt chaims 
 or Cliffs, thro' which at hand, you fee rich and cultivated 
 vales, and beyond thefe at various diftances, mountain rifing 
 over mountain, among wliich, new profpefts prefent them- 
 felves in milt, till the eye is loil in an agreeable perplexity : 
 
 Where aftive fancy travels beyond fenfe, 
 And pictures things unfeen. . 
 
 Were I to analyfe the two places into their conftituent 
 principles, I fhould tell you, that the full perfeftion of Kef- 
 wick, confifts of three circumftances, leauLy^ horror^ and im- 
 -menjity united; the fecond of wliich is alone found in Dovedale. 
 Of ijtauiy it hath little: nature having left it almoft a de- 
 fart : lieitlicr its fmall extent, nor the diminutive and lifelefs 
 form of tlie hills admit magniheace. — But to give you a 
 
 complete 
 
ADDENDA. 197 
 
 'ipil-tplt'le idea of thefe three perfeftions, as they are joined 
 in Kelwick, would require the united powers of Claude, Sal- 
 vator, and Pouffin. The lird fliould throw his delicate fun^ 
 fliine over the cultivated vales, the fcattered cots, the groves* 
 the lake, and wooded inlands. The fecond fhould dafh out 
 the horror of the rugged cliffs, the fteeps, the hanging woods, 
 and foaming water-falls; while the grand pencil of Poiiirni 
 fhould crown the whole with the majefty of the impending 
 mountains. 
 
 So tnuch for what I would call the permanent beauties of 
 this allonidiing fcene. Were I not afraid of being tirefome, 
 I could now dwell as long on its varying or accidental beauties. 
 I would fail round the lake, anchor in every bay, and land 
 you on every promontory and ifland. 1 would point out the 
 perpetual change of profpecls ; the woods, rocks, cliffs, and 
 mountains, by turns vanifhing or riling into view : now gain- 
 ing on the fight, hanging over our heads in their full dimen- 
 fions, beautifully dreadful ; and now by a change of fitiiationj 
 afTuming new romantic fhapcs, retiring and lefTening on the 
 eye, and infenfibly lofing themfelves in an azure mift. I 
 would remark the contrail of light and (hade, produced by 
 the morning and evening fun ; the one gilding the weflern, 
 and the other the eaftern fide of this immerife amphitheatre j 
 while the vafl fhadow piojefttd by the mountains buries the 
 oppofite part in a deep and purple gloom, which the eye can 
 hardly penetrate : the natural variety of colouring which the 
 feveral objefts produce is no lefs wonderful and pleaflng ; 
 the ruling tints in the valley being thofe of azure, green, and 
 gold, yet ever various, ariiing from an intermixture of the 
 lake, the woods, the grafs, and corn fields : thefe are finely 
 contrafted by the grey rocks and cliffs ; and the whole 
 heightened by the yellow ftreams of light, the purple hues, 
 and mifty azure of the mountains. Sometimes a ferene air 
 and clear flty difclofe the tops of the highefl hills : at others 
 you fee the clouds involving their fummits, refting on their 
 fides, or defcending to their bafe, and rolling among the val- 
 
 O 3 lies, 
 
,98 ADDENDA. 
 
 lies, as in a vafl fuwiace. — When the winds are high, they 
 roar among the diffs and caverns, like a peal of thunder « 
 then too the clouds are feen in vaft bodies, fweeping along the 
 hills in gloomy greatnefs, while the lake joins the tumult and 
 tofles like a Tea. But in calm weather the whole fcene be- 
 comes new : the lake is a perfedl: mirror ; and the landfcapc 
 in all its beauty, iflands, fields, woods, rocks, and mountains 
 are feen inverted and floating on its furface. — I will now 
 carry you to the top of a cliff, where if you dare approach the 
 ridge, a new fcene of aftonilhment prefents itfelf, where the 
 valley, lake, and iflands, feem lying at your feet, where this 
 expanfe of water appears diminifhed to a little pool amidft 
 the vaft immeafurable objefts that furround it ^ for here the 
 fummits of more diftant hills appear beyond thofe you had 
 already feen ; and rifing behind each other in fucceflive ran- 
 ge?, and azure groops of craggy and broken fteeps, form an 
 immenfe and awful pifture, which can only be expreffcd by 
 the image of a tempeftuous fea of mountains. — Let me now 
 conduct you down again, to the valley, and conclude with 
 one circumflance more, which is, that a walk by ftiil moon- 
 light (at which time the diftant water-falls are heard in ali 
 their variety of found) among thefe enchanting dales, open* 
 a fcene of fuch delicate beauty, repofe and foknanity, as ex- 
 ceeds all defcription. 
 
 ARTICLE 
 
ADDENDA. 199 
 
 ARTICLE ir. 
 
 EXTRACT FROM 
 
 T>k. Dalton's Descriptive Poem, 
 
 ENUMERATING THE BEAUTIES OF THE VALE OF KESV/ICK*i 
 
 3weet Kcfwick's vale, the mufe will guide* 
 The mufe who trod th' inchanted ground, 
 Who fail'd the wond'rous lake around, 
 With you will hafte once more to hail 
 The beauteous brook of Borrowdale. 
 
 From favage parent, gentle ftream J 
 Be thou the mufe's favourite theme : 
 O foft infinuating glide 
 Silent along the meadow's fide, 
 Smooth o'er the fandy bottom pafs, 
 Refplendent all through fluid glafs, 
 Unlefs upon thy yielding breaft 
 Their painted heads the lilies reft, 
 To where in deep capacious bed 
 The widely liquid lake is fpread. 
 
 Let other ftreams rejoice to roar 
 Down the rough rocks of dre;id Lowdore, 
 Ru(h raving on with boiil'rous fweep, 
 And foaming rend the frighted deep, 
 Thy gentle genius fhrinks away 
 From fuch a rude unequal fray ; 
 Through thine own native dale, where rife 
 Tremendous rocks amid the fkies. 
 Thy waves with patience flowly wind. 
 Till they the fraootheft channel find, 
 
 * Firft printed in 1775.— See PearchU ColkSi'm of Peems^ Vol. I. 
 
 O nature's pride. 
 
 O4 
 
 Softetl 
 
2.00 A DDE MP A. 
 
 Soften the horrors of the fcene. 
 And through confufioii flow fercnc. 
 
 Horrors like thefe at firtl alarm. 
 But foon with favage grandeur charm, 
 And raife to nobleft thoughts the mind: 
 Thus by thy fall, Lowdore, rec'in'd, 
 The craggy cliff, impendent wood, 
 Whofe fhadows mix o'er half the f5ood. 
 The gloomy clouds, which folemn fail. 
 Scarce lifted by the languid gale. 
 O'er the capp'd hill, and dark'iied vale; 
 The rav'ninor kite, and bird of Jove, 
 Wliich round the aerial ocean rove, 
 And, floating on the billowy flcy. 
 With full expanded pinions fly, 
 Tiicir flutt'ring or their bleating prey 
 Tiience with death-dooming eye furvey; 
 Channels by rocky torrents torn, 
 Rocks to the lake in thunders borne. 
 Or fuch as o'ei our heads appear 
 Stifpended in their mid career, 
 To (tart again at his command 
 Who rules fire, water, air, and land, 
 I view with wonder and delight, 
 A pleafing, though an awful fight : 
 Foi, fcen with them, the verdant ifles 
 Soften with more delicious fmiles, 
 More tempting twine their op'ning bow*r8» 
 More lively glow the purple- flow'is. 
 Mure fmoothly flopes the border gay, 
 In fairer ciicles bend the bay. 
 And la'l, to fix our wand'ring eyes, 
 Thy roots, O Ktfwitk, brighter rife. 
 The lake, and loftv hills between. 
 Where ^iaut Skiddaw fliuia the icene. 
 
 ARTICLE 
 
ADDENDA. aofi 
 
 ARTICLE III. 
 
 Mr. GIlAY*s JOURNAL. 
 
 IN A LETTER TO DR. WHA'^TOM, OCTOBER l8th, 1769^,- 
 PUBLISHED IN THE MEMOIRS OF HIS LIFE, BY MR, 
 MASON. 
 
 I Hope you got fafe and well home after that troublefomc 
 night*. I long to hear you fay fo. For me I have 
 continued well, been fo favoured by the weather, that my 
 walks hjve never once been hindered till yefterday (that is a 
 fortnight and three or four days, and a journey of more than 
 300 miles.) I am now at Afton for two days To-morrow 
 1 g ) to Cambridj^e. Mafon is not here; but Mr. Alderfon re- 
 ceives me. According to my promife, I fend you the firft 
 deet of my journal to be continued without end. 
 
 Sep. 30. 
 
 * Dr. Wharton, who had intended to accompany Mr. Gray to Kefwick, 
 was feizcd as BrougK with a violent fit oi his afthiiia, which obliged him 
 to return home. This was the realbn that Mr. Gray undertook to write 
 the following journal of his tour for his friend's anmfement. He fent 
 it under different covers; I give it here in continuition. It may not 
 be amifb, however, to hint to the reader, that if he expefts to find, ela- 
 borate and niCely turned periods in this narration, he will be greatly 
 <iifappoInted. When Mr Gray defcnbed places, he aimed only to be ex- 
 aft, clear, and intelligible j to convey peculiar, not general ideas, and to 
 paint by the eye not the fancy. There have been many accounts of 
 ' the Weflmorland and Cumberland kk-s, both before and fince this Wa» 
 written, and aU of them better c;:lcula;ed to pleafe readers who are 
 fond of what they call fine writing -. yet thofe who can content them- 
 felves with an elrg^nt nnpliuty of narrative, will, I flatter myfelf, find 
 this to their tafte ; thty w.ll oerceive it was written with a view, rather 
 to inform than furprife; and, if they make it their companion when 
 ' they take the fame our, it will enhance their op nion of its intrinfic ex- 
 «eUence j in this way 1 ttitd it nayfeii btfcre I reiiived to print it. 
 
C02 
 
 ADDENDA* 
 
 Sep. 30. A mile and a half from Brough, where we 
 parted, on a hill lay a great army* encamped : to the left 
 opened a fine valley with green meadows and hedge-rows, a 
 gentleman's houfe peeping forth from a grove of old trees. 
 On a nearer approach appeared myriads of cattle and horfes 
 in the road itfelf, and in all the fields ronnd me, a brifli ftream 
 hurrying crofs the way, thoufands of clean healthy people in 
 their beft party-coloured apparel : farmeis and their families, 
 efquires and their daughters haftening up from the dales and 
 down the fells from every quarter, glittering in the fun, and 
 prefliug forward to join the throng. While the dark hills, 
 on whofe tops the mifts were yet hanging, ferved as a contrail 
 to this gay and moving fcene, vs-hich continued for near two 
 miles more along the road, and the crowd (coming towards 
 it) reached on as far as Appleby. On the afcent of the hill 
 above Appleby the thick hanging wood, and the long reaches 
 of the Eden, clear, rapid, and full as ever, winding below, 
 with views of the caftle and town, gave much employment to 
 the mirror f ; but now the fun was wanting, and the llcy o- 
 vercaft. Oats and barley cut every where, but not carried 
 in. Faffed Kirbythore, Sir William Dalfton's houfe at Acorn-, 
 bank, Winfield-park, Harthorn-oaks Countefs-pillar, Brough- 
 am-caftle, Mr. Brougham's large new houfe ; crofTed the 
 Eden and the Emont with its green vale, and dined at three 
 o'clock with Mrs. Buchanan at Penrith, on trout and par- 
 tridge. In the afternoon walked up beacon-hill, a mile to 
 the top, and could fee Ulls-water through an opening in the 
 bofom of that clufter of broken mountains, which the Dr. 
 well remembers, Winfield and Lowther parks, &c. and the 
 
 craggy 
 
 * There is a grear fair foi cattle kept on the hill near Brough on this 
 and the preceeding day. 
 
 f Mr. Gray carried ufually with him on thefe tours a plano-convex 
 mirror of about four inches diameter on a black foil, and bound up like 
 a pocket-book. A glafs of this fort is perhaps the beft and moft conve- 
 nient fubftitute for a camera obfcura of any thing that has hitherts 
 bcm invented, and may be had of any optician. 
 
 i 
 
ADDENDA. ~ 205 
 
 eragrry tops of an Imnd.ed namelefs hills: thefe lie to the 
 'vcft^'and fouth. To the north, a great extent of black and 
 dreary plains. To the eaft, Crofs-fell, juft vifible through 
 mills and vapours hovering round it. 
 
 Oa. 1. A grey autumnal day, the air perfeaiy calm, and 
 mild, went to fte UUs-water, five miles diftant ; foon left 
 the Kefwick road, and turned to the left, through fhady lanes 
 alon^ the vale of Emont, which runs rapidly on near the way 
 rippling over the Hones ; to the right is Dalemain, a large fa- 
 brick of pale red ftone, with nine windows in front and feven 
 on the fide, built by Mr. Haffell ; behind it a fine lawn fur- 
 rounded by woods, and a long rocky eminence nhng over 
 them : a clear afid brifli rivulet runs by the houfe to join the 
 Emont, whofe couife is in fi^rht and at a fmall diftance. Fur- 
 ther on appears Huttou St. John, a callle-like old manfion of 
 M'. HuddlHlon. Approached Dunmallet, a fine pointed 
 hi!l. covered with wood, planted by old Mr. Haffell before 
 men ioned, who lives always at home, and delights in plant- 
 ir-vr. W-Jked over a fpongy meadow or two, and began to 
 mount the hill through a broad ftraight green alley among 
 the trees, and with fome toil gained the furamit. From 
 h.nce faw the lake opening diredly at my feet, majeftic in 
 its calmnefs, clear and fmooth as a blue mirror, with wind- 
 in<r fliores and low points of land covered with green inclo- 
 fu^s, white farm houfes looking out among the trees, and 
 cattle feeding. The water is almoft every where bordered 
 with cultivated lands, gently floping upwards from a mile to 
 a quarter of a mile in breadth, till they reach the feet of the 
 mountains which rife very rude and awful with their broken 
 tops on either hand. Diredly in front, at better than three 
 miles diftance. Place-fell, one of the braveR among them, 
 puOies its bold broad breaft into the midft of the lake, and 
 forces it to alter its courfe, forming firft a large bay to the 
 left, and then bending to the right. 1 defcended Dunmallet 
 again by a fide avenue, that was only not perpendicular, and 
 came to Barton-bridge over the Emont; then walking 
 
 through 
 
:2b4 ADDENDA. 
 
 through a path In the wood round the bottom of the hilL 
 «ame forth where the Emont iffues out of the lake, and con- 
 tinued my way along its weftern fhore, dofe to the water^ 
 and generally on a level with it. Saw a cormorant flying 
 over it and fifhing. The figure of the lake nothing refem- 
 bles that laid down in our maps : It is nine miles long; and 
 at wideft under a mile in breadth. After extending itfelf 
 three miles and a half in a line to fouth weft, it turns at the 
 foot of Place-fell almoft due weft, and is here not twice the 
 breadth of the Thames at London. .It is foon again inter- 
 rupted by the root of Helvellyn, a lofty and very rugged 
 mountain, and fpreading again turns off to the fouth-eaft, and 
 is loft among the deep receffes of the hills. To this fecond 
 turning I purfued my way about four miles along its border 
 beyond a village fcattered among trees and called Wattermil- 
 lock, in a pleafant grave day, perfeftly calm and warm, but 
 without a gleam of funfliine; then the llcy feeming to thicken, 
 and the valley to grow more defolate, and the evening draw* 
 ing on, I returned by the way I came to Penrith. 
 
 Oa. 2. I fet out at ten for Kefwick, by the road we went 
 in 1767 ; (aw Greyftock town and caftle to the right, which 
 lie about three miles from Ulls-water over the fells ; pafTed 
 through Penruddock and Threlkeld at the foot of Saddle- 
 back, whole furrowed fides were gilt by the noon-day fun, 
 whilft its brow appeared of a fad purple from the fhadow of 
 the clouds as they failed flowly by it. The broad and green 
 valley of Gardies and Lowfide, with a fwift ftream glittering 
 among the cottages and meadows, lay to the left, and the 
 much finer but narrower valley of St. John's opening into 
 It : Hill-top, the large though low manfion of the Gafgarths 
 now a farm houfe, feated on an eminence among woods 
 under a fteep fell, was what appeared the moft confpicuous,* 
 and befide it a great rock, like fome ancient tower nodding 
 to its fall. PafTed by the fide of Skiddaw and its cub, called 
 Latngg ; and faw from an eminence, at two miles diftance, 
 the vale of Elyfium in all its verdure ; the fun then playing 
 
ADDENDA. 205 
 
 «,n the bofom of the lake, and lighting up all the mountalnt 
 with its Uidre. Dined by two o'clock at the Qiieen's-head, 
 and then ftraggled out alone to the parfonage, where I faVir 
 the fun fet in all its glory. 
 
 Ocl. 3. A heavenly day; rofe at feven, and walked out 
 under the condudl of my landlord to Borrowdale ; the grafs 
 was covered with a hoar-froft, which foon melted and exhaled 
 in a thin bhiifh fmoke ; croffed the meadows, obliquely 
 catching a diverfity of views among the hills, over the lake 
 and iflands, and changing profped at every ten paces. Left 
 Cockftiut (which we formerly mounted) and Caftle-hill, a lof- 
 tier and more rugged hill behind me, and drew near the foot 
 of Wallow-crag, whoCe bare and rocky brow cut perpendicu- 
 larly down above 400 feet (as I guefs, though the people call 
 it much more) awfully ovei looks the way. Our path here 
 tends to the left, and the ground gently rifing, and covered 
 ^ith a glade of fcattered trees and bullies on the very margin 
 of the water, opens both ways the moil delicious view that 
 my eyes ever beheld, Oppofite, are the thick woods of Lord 
 Egremont, and Newland valley, with green and fmiling fields 
 embofomed in the dark cliifs ; to the left, the jaws of Bor- 
 rowdale, with that turbulent chaos of mountain behind moun- 
 tain, rolled in confufion ; beneath you and ftretching far away 
 to the right, the fhining purity of the lake reflefting rocks, 
 woods, fields, and inverted tops of hills, juft ruffled by the 
 breeze, enough to fliew it is alive, with the white buildings 
 of Kefwick, Crofthwaite church, and Skiddaw for a back- 
 ground at a diftance. Behind you the magnificent heights of 
 Wallow-crag : here the glafs played its part divinely ; the 
 place is called Carf-clofe-reeds ; and I chufe to fet down thefe 
 barbarous names, that any body may enquire on the place, 
 and eafily find the particular flation that I mean. This 
 fcene continues to Barrowgate, and a little farther, paffing a 
 brook called Barrow-beck, we entered Borrowdale : the crags 
 named Lowdore-banks begin now to impend terribly over the 
 way, and more terribly when you hear that three years finc« 
 
 an 
 
2o6 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 an immenfe mafs of rock tumbled at once from the brow, 
 barred all accefs to the dale (for this is the only road) till 
 they could work their way through it. Luckily no one was 
 paffing by at the time of this fall ; but down the fide of the 
 mountain, and far into the lake, lie difperfed the huge frag- 
 ments of this ruin, in all fliapes and in all diredions: fame- 
 thing farther we turned afide into a coppice, afcending a little 
 in front of Lowdore water-fall ; the height appeared to be 
 about 200 feet, the quantity of water not great, though 
 (thefe three days excepted) it had rained daily in the hills 
 for near two months before : but then the ftream was nobly 
 broken, leaping from rock to rock, and foaming with fury. 
 On one fide a towering crag, that fpired up to equal, if not 
 overtop the neighbouring cliffs (this lay all in fhade and 
 darknefs;) on the other hand a rounder, broader, projecting 
 hill, fhagged with wood, and illuminated by the fun, which 
 glanced fideways on the upper part of the cataraCt. The 
 force of the water wearing a deep channel in the ground, 
 hurries away to join the lake. "We defcended again, and 
 pafled the ftream over a rude bridge. Soon after we came 
 under Gowdar-crag, a hill more formidable to the eye, and 
 to the apprehenfion, than that of Lowdore; the rocks at top 
 deep-cloven perpendicularly by the rains, hanging loofe and 
 nodding forwards, feen juft ftarting from their bafe in flii- 
 vers. The whole way down, and the road on both fides is 
 ftrewed with piles of the fragments, ftrangely thrown acrofs 
 each other, and of a dieadful bulk; the place reminds me 
 of thofe palfes in the Alps, where the guides tell you to 
 move with fpeed, and fay nothing, left the agitation of the 
 air ftiould ioofen the fnows above, and bring down a mafs 
 that would overwhelm a caravan. I took their counfel here, 
 and haftened on in filence. 
 
 Non ragioniam di lor, ma guarda, e pafla. 
 
 The hills here are cloathed all up their fteep fides with 
 cak, afli, birch, holly, &c. fome of it has been cut forty years 
 
 ago, 
 
ADDENDA. 207 
 
 ago, fome within thefe eight years ; yet all is fprung again, 
 green, flouriftiing, and tall, for its age, in a place where no 
 foil appears but the ftaring rock, and where a man could 
 fcarce Hand upright. Here we met a civil young farmet 
 overfeeing his reapers (for it is now oat harveft) who con- 
 duced us to a neat white houfe in the village of Grange, 
 which is built on a rifing ground, in the midft of a valley ; 
 round it the mountains form an awful amphitheatre, and 
 through it obliquely runs the Derwent, clear as glafs, and 
 Jhewing under its bridge every trout that palfes. Befide the 
 Tillage rifes a round eminence of a rock covered intirely with 
 old trees, and over that more proudly towers Caftle-crag, 
 invefted alfo with wood on its fides, and bearing on its na- 
 ked top fome traces of a f ;rt, faid to be Roman. By the 
 fide of this hill, which almoft blocks up the way, the valley 
 turns to the left, and contrafts its dimenfions till there i> 
 hardly any road but the rocky bed of the river. The wood 
 of the mountains inereafes, and their fummits grow loftier 
 to the eye, and of more fantaftic forms ; among them appear 
 Eagle's-clifF, Dove's-neft, Whitedale-pike, &c. celebrated 
 names in the annals of Kefwick. The dale opens about four 
 iniles higher, till you come to Seathvvaite (where lies the 
 way, mounting the hill to the right, that leads to the wad- 
 mines;) all farther accefs is here barred to prying mortals, 
 only there is a little path winding over the fells, and for 
 fome weeks in the year pafTable to the dalefmen ; but the 
 mountains know well that thefe innocent people will not 
 reveal the myfteries of their ancient kingdom, " the reign of 
 Chaos and Old Night only I learned that this dreadful 
 road, divided again, leads one branch to Ravenglafs, and the 
 other to Hawkftiead. 
 
 For me, I went no farther than the farmer's (better thaa 
 four miles from Kefwick) at Grange ; his mother and he 
 brought us butter that Siferah would have jumped at, though 
 not in a lordly di/h, bowls of milk, thin oaten-cakes, and 
 ale } and we had carried a cold tongue thither with us. Our 
 
 farmer 
 
ao8 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 farmer was himfelf the man that laft year plundered the ea- 
 gle's eyrie; all the dale are up in arms on luch an occr^fion, 
 for they lofe abundance of lambs yearly, not to mention 
 haief, partridges, groufe, &c. He was let down from the 
 cliff in ropes to the (helf of the rock on which the ned was 
 built, the people above (houting and hallooing to fright the 
 old birds, which flew Icreaming around, but did not dare to 
 attack him. He brought off the eaglet (for there is rarely 
 more than one) and an addle egg. The neft w=is ronndifli, 
 and more than a yard over, made of twigs twifted together. 
 Seldom a year paffcs but they take the brood, or eggs, and 
 fometimes they (lioot one, fometimes the other, parent ; but 
 the furvivor has always found a mate (probably in Ireland) 
 »nd they breed near the old place. By his dt- cription I 
 learn that this fpecies is the Erne, the vulture AbiciHa of 
 Linnaeus, in his laft edition (but in yours Faico Albicilla) 
 fo conlult him and Pennant about it. 
 
 We returned leifurely home the way we came, hut faw a 
 new landfcape ; the features Indeed were the fan.e in parr, 
 but many new ones were difclofed by the mid-day fun, and 
 the tints were intircly changed: take notice this was the 
 beft, or perhaps the only day for going up Skiddaw, but I 
 thought it better employed j it was pcrftdly fcreue, and hot 
 as midfummer. 
 
 In the evening I walked alone down to the lake, by the 
 fide of Crow-park, a'ter fun-let, and faw the folemn co- 
 louring of the night draw on, the lait gleam of funfhine 
 fading away on the hill tops, the deep fcrene of the waters, 
 and the long fhadows of the mountains thrown acrofs them, 
 till they nearly touched the hithermoft fliore. At a diftance 
 were heard the murmurs of many water-falls, not audible 
 in the day-time ; I wilhed for the moon, but fhe was dark 
 to me, and lilent, 
 
 Hid in her vacant interjunar care. 
 
 oa. 4. 
 
ADDENDA. 209 
 
 Oft. 4. I walked to Crow-park, now a rough pafture, 
 •net- a glade of ancient oaks, whofe large roots Hill remain 
 in the ground, but nothing has fprung from them. If one 
 finglc tree had remained, this would have been an unpa- 
 rallel'd fpot ; and Smith judged right when he took his print 
 of the lake from hence, for it is a gentle eminence, not too 
 high on the veiy margin of tiie water, and commanding it 
 from end to end, looking full into the goruc of Borrowdale. 
 I pret'er it even to Cackfliuf-hill which lies btfide it, and to 
 which I walked in the alternnoii ; it is covered with young 
 trees both fown and planted, oak, fpruce, Scotch-fir, Sec. 
 all which thrive wonderfully. Tucre is an eafy afcent to 
 the top, and the view far prLfeuible to that on Caftle-hili 
 (which you remember) becaufe 'his is lower and niaro to 
 the lake; for 1 find all points that aie much elevated, fpoil 
 the beauty of the valley, and make its parts, which are not 
 large, look poor and diminutive*. Wiiile 1 was here a 
 little fhower fell, red clouds came marching up the hills 
 from the call, and part of a bright rainbonv fecmcd to ilfe 
 along the lide of Caitk-hill. 
 
 From hence I sfot to the parfonage a little before fun-fet, 
 and faw in my glals a pifture tint if 1 could tranfmit to 
 you, and fix it in all the foftnefs of it- living colours, would 
 fairly fell for a thouland pcnmds. Tiiis is the fsveeteft fcene 
 I can yet difcover in point of palloral beauty ; the reft are 
 in a fublimer ftile. 
 
 P oa. 5. 
 
 * The pifturefque point is always tlius low in all profpe£ls : a truth, 
 ■which though trie landfcape pairter kno\^■s, I'.e cannot always obfcrve; 
 iince the patron who employs him to ta!.'- a view of his phice, u.ually 
 carries him to fome elevation for that purpcfe, in order, I fuppofc, that 
 he may have more of him for lus money. Yet when I 'ay this I would 
 not be thought to mean that n drav,-ing fhouid be made from the lowefl 
 p'jint poflible ; as for inft..nce, in this vt l y vitw, from the lake itfclf, 
 for then a fore-grciind would be wantinfj. On tliis account, when I 
 failed on Derwent-water, I did not receive fo much pleafure from the fu- 
 perb amphitheatre of mcuccains nrcund me, as when, like f.ir. Cray, I 
 Iraverfed its margin ; and therclore think hs? did not hie much by r^t 
 taking b«at. 
 
2IO 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 Oft. 5. 1 walked through the meadows and corn-fields 
 to the Derwent, and crofling it went up How-hill; it looks 
 along Baffenthwaite-water, and fees at the fame time the 
 courfc of the river, and a part of the upper lake, with a full 
 view of Skiddaw : then I took my way tlirourrh Portingfcalc 
 village to the Park, a hill fo calitd, covered entirely vvith 
 wood; it is all a mafs of crumbling (late. Faffed round its 
 foot between trees and the edge of the water, and came to 
 a peninfula that juts out into the lake, and looks along it 
 both ways, in front rifes Wallow-crag and Caftle-hill, the 
 town, the road to Penrith, Skiddaw, and Saddle-back. Re^ 
 turning met a hriik and cold nortli-eaftern blaft, that ruffled 
 all the furface of the lake, and made it rife in little waves 
 that broke at the foot of the wood. After dinner walked 
 up the Penrith road two miles, or more, and turning into a 
 corn-field to the right, called Caftle-rigg, faw a druid circle 
 of large ftones, 108 feet in diameter, the biggeft not eight 
 feet high, but moil of them ilill eredl ; they are fifty in 
 number*. The valley of St, John's appeared in fight, and 
 the fummits of Cachidecam (called by Camden, Cafticand) 
 and Helvellyn, faid to be as high as Skiddaw, and to rife 
 from a much higher bafe. 
 
 Ott. 6. Went in a chaife eighl miles along the eaft fide 
 of Baffenthwaite-water to Oule-bridge (pronounced Ews-- 
 bridge ;) the road in fome part made, and very good, the reft 
 flippery and dangerous cart road, or narrow rugged lanes but 
 no precipices; it runs dire£lly along the foot of Skiddaw. 
 Oppofite to \Vythope-brow8, cloathed to the top vvith wood, 
 a very beautiful view opens down to the lake, which is nar- 
 rower and longer than that of Kefvvick, lefs broken into 
 J^ays, and without iflands f . At the foot of it, a few paces 
 
 from 
 
 * See this piece of antiquity more fully defcribed, with a plate an- 
 nexed, by Mr. Pennant, in his fecond tour to Scotland, in 1772, page 38. 
 
 f It is fomewhat extraordinary that Mr. Gray omitted to mention the 
 .iflands on Derwent-water ; one of which, I think they call it Vicar' s-ifland, 
 makes a principal objedl in the fcene. See Smith's view of Derwent- water. 
 
ADDENDA. ftii 
 
 from the brink, gently floping upwards, ftands Armathwaite 
 in a thick, grove of Scotch-firs, commanding a noble view 
 diredlly up the lake ; at a fmall diftance behind the houfe is 
 a large extent of wood, and ftill behind this a ridge oi cul- 
 tivated hills, on which, according to the Kefwick proverb, 
 the fun always Jhines, The inhabitants here, on the con- 
 trary, call the vale of Derweni-water, the Devil's chamber-pot, 
 and pronoujice the name of Skiddaw fell, which terminates 
 here, with a fort of terror and averfion. Armathwaite-houfe 
 is a modern fabrick, not large, and built of dark fed ilone, 
 belonging to Mr. Spedding, whofe grandfather was ftewai-d 
 to old Sir James Lowther, and bought this eftate of the 
 Highmores. The flcy was overcail, and the wind cool ; fo 
 after dining at a public houfe, which ftands here near the 
 bridge (that crofles the DervAcnt juft where it iiTufcS from 
 the lake) and fauntering a little by the water fide, I came 
 home again. The turnpike is finiflied from Cockermouth 
 hither, five miles, and is carrying on to Penrith ; leveral little 
 fhowers to-day. A man came in who faid there was fnow 
 «n Crofs-fell this morning. 
 
 0£l. 7. I walked In the morning to Crow-park, and in 
 the evening up Penrith road,, The clouds came rolling up 
 the mountains all round very dark, yet the moon (hone at 
 intervals. It was two damp to go towards the lake. To- 
 morrow I mean to bid farewel to Kefwick. 
 
 Botany might be ftudied here to great advantage at ano- 
 ther feafon, becaufe of the great variety of foils and eleva- 
 tions, all lying within a fmall compafs. I obferved nothing 
 but feveral curious lichens, and plenty of gale or Dutch 
 my»tle perfuming the borders of the lake. This year the 
 wad-mine had been opened, which is done once in five years ; 
 it is taken out in lumps fometimes as big as a man's fift, 
 and will undergo no preparation by fire, not being fufible ; 
 when it is pure, foft, black and loofe-grained, it is worth 
 fometimes thirty (hillings a pound. There are no char ever 
 
 r 2 taken 
 
■212 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 taken in thefe lakes, but plenty in Buttermere-watcr, whick 
 lies a little way north of Boirovvdale, about Martinmas, 
 which are potted here. They few chiefly oats and bigg 
 here, which are now cutting and Hill on the ground ; the 
 rains have done much hurt ; yet ubfervc, the foil is fo thin 
 and light, that no day has pafied in which I could not walk 
 out with eafe ; and you know I am no lover of dirt. Fell 
 mutton is now in feafon for about fix weeks; it grows fat 
 on the mountains, and nearly refembles venifon. Excellent 
 pike and perch, here called bafs : trout is now out of fea- 
 fon ; partridge in great plenty. 
 
 OSi. S. I left Kefwick, and took the Amblefide road in 
 a gloomy morning; about two miles [rather a mile] from 
 the town mounted an eminence called Gaftle-rigg, and the 
 fun breaking out difcovered the moil enchanting view I have 
 yet feen of the whole valley behind me, the two lakes, the 
 river, the mountains all in their glory ; fo that I had almoft 
 a mind to have gone back again. The road in fome few- 
 parts is not completed, yet good country road, through 
 found but narrow and ftony lanes, very fafe in broad day 
 light. This is the cafe about Caufeway-foot, and among 
 Naddle-fell?, to Langthwaite. The vale you go in has little 
 bieadth ; the mountains are vaft and rocky, the fields little 
 and poor, and the inhabitants are now making hay, and fee 
 not the fun by two hours in a day fo long as at Kefwick. 
 Came fo the foot of Helvellyn, along which tuns an excel- 
 lent road, looking down from a little height on Leathes- 
 water (called alfo Thirlmere, or Wythburn-water) and foou 
 (Icfcending on its margin. The lake looks black from its 
 depth, and from the gloom of the vaft crags that fcowl over 
 it, though really clear as glafs : it is narrow, and about three 
 miles long, refembling a river in its courfe; little (hining tor- 
 rents hurrying down the rocks to join it, but not a bufh to 
 ovcrfhadow them, or cover their march ; all is rock and 
 loofe ftones up to the very brow, which lies fo near your way 
 that not above half the height of Helvellyn can be feen» 
 
 Next 
 
ADDENDA. 215 
 
 Next I paflcd by the little chapel of Wythbutn, out of 
 which the iunday congregation were then iffuing ; foon after 
 a beck near Dunmail-raife, where I entered Weftmorland a 
 fecond time ; and now began to fee Helm-crag, diilinguiftied 
 from its rugged neighbours, not fo much by its height as by 
 the ftrange broken outlines of its top, like fome gigantic 
 building demoliHiedi and the' (tones that compofed it flung 
 acrofs each other in wild confufion. Juft beyond it, opens 
 one of the fweeteft landfcapes that art ever attempted to 
 imitate. The bofom of the mountains fpreading here into a 
 broad bafon difcovers in the midft Grafmere-water ; its mar- 
 gin is hollowed into fmall bays, with bold eminences; fome 
 of rock, fome of turf, that half conceal and vary the figure 
 of the little lake they command ; from the fhore a low pro- 
 montory pufhes itfelf far iflto the water, and on it ftands a 
 white village, with the parifh church rifing in the midft of 
 it ; hanging inclofures, corn-fields, and meadows, green as an 
 emerald, with their trees, and hedges, and cattle, till up the 
 whole fpace from the edge of the water; and juft oppofite 
 to you is a large farm-houfe at the bottom of a ileep fmooth 
 lawn, embofomed in old woods, which climb half way up 
 the mountains fide, and difcover above them a broken line 
 of crags that crown the fcene. Not a fingle red tile, no 
 'gentleman's flaring houfe, or garden walls, break in upon 
 the repofe of this little unfufpeded paradife ; but all ia 
 peace, rufticity, and happy poverty, in its neatett, moft 
 'becoming attire. 
 
 The road winds here over Grafmere hill, whofe rocks 
 foon conceal the water from your fight; yet it is continued 
 along behind them, and contrafting itfelf to a river, com-- 
 municates with Rydal-water, another fmall lake, but of in- 
 ferior fize and beauty; it feems fliallow too, for large palciu-s 
 of reeds appear pretty far within. Into this vale the road 
 defcends. On the oppofite banks large and ancient woods 
 mount up the hill; and juft to the left of our way itands 
 'Rydal-hall, the family feat of Sir Michael k Fleming, a 
 
 P 3 large 
 
214 ADDENDA. 
 
 large old-fafliioned fabrick, rounded with wood. Sir Mi" 
 chael is now on his travels, and all this timber far and wide 
 belongs to him. Near the houfe rifes a huge crag, called 
 Rydal-head, which is faid to command a full view of Win- 
 dermere, and I doubt it not ; for within a mile, that lake is 
 vifible even from the road : as to going up the crag, one 
 might as well go up Skiddaw. 
 
 I now reached Amblefide, fixteen miles from Kefwick, 
 meaning to lie there ; but on looking into the beft bed- 
 chamber, dark and damp as a cellar, grew delicate, gave up 
 Windermere in defpair, and refolved I would go on to Ken- 
 dal direftly, fourteen miles farther*. The joad in general 
 fine turnpike, but fome parts (about three miles in all) not 
 made, yet without danger. 
 
 For this determination T was unexpeftedly well rewarded ; 
 for the afternoon was fine, and the road, for the fpace of full 
 five miles, ran along the fide of Windermere, with delicious 
 •views acrofs it, and almoft from one end to the other. It is 
 
 ten 
 
 * By not ftayirg a little at Amblefide, Mr. Cray loft the fight of two 
 magnificent cafcades : the one not half a mile behind the inn, the other 
 down Rydal-crag, where Sir Michael le Fleming is now making a path- 
 way to the top of it. Thefe, when I faw them, were in lull torrent; 
 Whereas Lowdore water-fall, which I vifited in the evening of the very 
 fame day, was almoft without a ftream. Hence I conclude that this dif- 
 tinguiftied feature in the vale of Kefwick, is like moft of the northern ri- 
 vers, only in high beauty during bad weather. But his greateft lofs was 
 in not feeing a fmaU water-fall, vifible only through the window of a 
 rumed funtimer-houfe in Sii Michael's orchard. Here nature has per- 
 formed every thing in little that fhe ufually executes on her larger fcale j 
 and on that acgeunt, like the miniature painter, feems to have finifhed 
 every part of it in a ftudied manner ; not a little fragment of rock thrown 
 into the bafon, not a fingle ftem of bruftiwood that ftarts from its craggy 
 fides but has its pidlurefque meaning ; and the little central ftream dafti- 
 ing down a cleft of the darkeft coloured ftone, produces an effedl of 
 light and ftiadow beautiful beyond defcription. This little theatrical 
 feene might be painted as large as the original, on a canvas not bigger 
 than thofe ufually dropped in the opera-houfe» 
 
ADDENDA* 
 
 tch rhilfes in length, and at raoft a mile over, refembling the 
 couile of lome vaR and magnificent river ; but no flat marfliy 
 grounds, no ofier-beds, or patches of fcrubby plantations on - 
 its banks : at the head two valh'es open among the moun- 
 tains; one that by which we came down, the other Langdale, 
 in which Wrynofe and Hardknot, two great mountains, rife 
 above the reft : from thence the fells vifibly fink, and foftea 
 along its fides; fometimes they run into it (but with a gentle 
 declivity) in their own dark and natural compleJiion; oftener 
 they are green and cultivated, with farms interfperfedj and 
 found eminences, on the border covered with trees; towards 
 the fouth it feemed to break into large bays, with feveral 
 iflands, and a wider extent of cultivation. The way riles 
 continually, till at a place called Orreft-head it turns fouth- 
 caft, lofing fight of the water* 
 
 Pafled by Ings chapel, and Staveley ; but I can fay no 
 farther, for the duflc of the evening coming on, I entered 
 Kendal almoft in the dark, and could dittinguifti only a fha- 
 dow of the caftle on a hill, and tenter grounds fpread far and 
 wide round the town, which I miftook for houfes* My inn 
 promifed fadly, having two wooden galleries, like Scotland, 
 in front of it ; it was indeed an old ill-contrived houfe, but 
 kept by civil fenfible people ; fo I ftayed two niglits witU 
 them, and fared and flept very comfortably* 
 
 06k. 9. The air mild as fummer, ail corn off the ground, 
 and the flcy-larks finging aloud (by the way, I faw not one 
 at Kefwick, perhaps, becaufe the place abounds in birds ot 
 prey.) I went up the caftle hill : the town chiefly confifts 
 of three nearly parallel ftreets, almoft a mile long ; except 
 thefe, all the other houfes feem as if they had been dancing 
 a country-dance, and were out : there they ftand back to 
 back, corner to corner, fome up-hill, fome down, without 
 intent or meaning. Along by their fide runs a fine brifk 
 ftream, over which there are three ftone bridges; the build- 
 ings (a few comfortable houfes excepted) are mean, of ftone^ 
 
 P4 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 and covered with a bad rough-caft*. Near the end of tr.e 
 town ftaiids a handf ime liouff of Colonel Wilfon's, and ad- 
 joining to it the church, a very large Gothic fabrick, with 
 a fquare tower : it has no particular ornaments but double 
 aifle.«, and at the eaft end four chapels or choirs ; one of ihe 
 Pa rs, another of the Stricklands, the thiid is the proper 
 choir of the church, and the fourth of the Bellinghams, a 
 family now extiud. Tuere is an altar tomb of one of them 
 datevi 1577, with a flat bi dfs arms and qiiarterin^-'s ; aral ia 
 the window their aiUiS alone, arg. a hunting horn fah. ft'ung 
 gules. In the Strickland's chapel feveral monuments, and 
 another old altar comb, not belonging to the family : on the 
 fide of it a L-f; dancetty between ten billets deincourt. In 
 the Pair's chapel is a third altar tomb in the corner, no 
 figure or infcription, but on the fide cut an efcutcheon, of 
 Rofs of Kendal (three water budget!-) quartering Parr, (two 
 bars in a bordure engrailed :) 2.11y, an elcutcheon, vaire, a 
 fcfs for marmiou ; 3dly, an efcutcheon, three chevronels 
 braced, and a chief (which I take for Fitzhugh;) at the foot 
 is an efcutcheon, furrouuded with the gaiter, bearing Riifs 
 and Pan quarteily, quartering the other two before men- 
 tioned. I have no books to look in, theiefore cannot fay 
 whether this is tlie Lord Parr, of Kendal, Queen Catharine's 
 father, or her brother the Marquis of Nortliampton : perhaps 
 it is a cenotaph for the latter, who was buried at Warwick 
 in 157 I. The remains of the caiUe are feated on a fine hill 
 on the fide of the river oppofite the town ; almolt the whole 
 inclofure of the walls remains,, with four towers, two fquare, 
 and two round, but their upper parts and embattlements arc 
 demolifhed : it Is of rough ftone and cement, without any 
 
 ornament 
 
 [* The accounts of things given by h'>Jiy travellers are generally inaccu- 
 rate and offer, injudicious. As to tht pnncpal Itrects cf Kendal they arc 
 neither three in nuiiilicr, nor nearly parallel. I hey are but two. One 
 about a mile in length, and another about half a mile. Thefe ftreets 
 contain indeed but few elegant houfes, they are however on the whole 
 as open and well built as in moft other towns. As to the had lou^h uiji, 
 cur author fpeaks of, judges of rough-caft, have always fuppcfed thi« 
 country no way deficient either in jts materials or in the manner of 
 laying jt on.] 
 
ADDENDA. aijr 
 
 «rnanieiit or arms, round, inclofing a court of like form, an<5 
 furrounded by a moat ; nor ever could it have been larger 
 than it is, for there are no traces ot outwoiks. There is a 
 ;od view of the town and river, with a fertile open valley- 
 through which it winds. 
 
 After dinner I went along the Millthrop turnpike, four 
 triilts, to fee the falls, or force of the river Kent ; came to 
 S'zer^h (pronounced Sifer) and turned down a lane to the 
 left. Tiiis feat ot the Srricklands, an old catholic family, is 
 an an :i'-nt hall-houle, with a very large tower, embattled ; 
 the reft of the buildings added to it are of a later date, but 
 all is white, and fcen to advantage on a back-ground of old 
 trees ; there is a fmall park alfo well v/ooded, Oppofite t» 
 thi--, turning to the left, I foon came to the river ; it works 
 its wa> in a narrow and deep rocky channel, overhung with 
 trees. Thecalmnefs and brightnefs of the evening, the roar 
 of the watcrij, and the thumping of huge hammers at an 
 iron-forge not far diftant, made it a fingular walk ; but as 
 to the falls (for there are two) they are not four feet high. 
 I went on down to the forge, and faw the demons at work 
 by the light of their own fires : the iron is brought in pigs 
 to Millthrop, by fea, from Scotland, &c. aiid is here beat 
 into bats and plates. Two miles further, at Levens, is the 
 feat of Lord Suffolk, where he fometimes paffes the furii- 
 mer : it was a favourite place of his late Countefs : but this 
 I did not fee. 
 
 Ott.ro. I proceeded by Burton to Lancafter, twenty-two 
 inilts ; very good country, well inclofed and wooded, with 
 fome common interfperfed. PafTed at the foot of Farlton- 
 kiiot, a high fell. Four miles north of Lancaller, on a rifing 
 ground, called Bolton (pronounced Bouton) we had a full 
 ▼iew of Cartmel fands, with here and there a paffenger riding 
 over them (it being low water;) the points of Furnefs (hoot- 
 ing far into the fea, and lofty mountains partly covered with 
 clouds, extending north of them. Lancafter alfo appeared 
 
 ▼ery 
 
2i8 
 
 ADDENDA* 
 
 very confpicuous and fine ; for its moft diftinguiftied features^ 
 the caftle and church, mounted on a green eminence, were 
 all that could be feen. Woe is me ! v/hen I got thither, it 
 was the fecond day of their fair; the inn, in the principal 
 ftreet, was a great old gloomy houfe, full of people ; but I 
 found talerable quarters, and even flept two nights in peace. 
 
 In a fine afternoon I afcended the caftle-hill ; it takes up 
 the higher top of the eminence on which it ftands, and is 
 irregularly round, encompaffed with a deep moat : in front, 
 towards the town, is a magnificent Gothic gateway, lofty 
 and huge ; the overhanging battlements are fupported by a 
 triple range of corbels, the intervals pierced through, and 
 {hewing the day from above. On its top rife light watch 
 towers of fmall height. It opens below with a grand pointed 
 arch ; over this is a wrought tabernacle, doubtlefs once con- 
 taining its founder's figure ; on one fide a fhield of France 
 femy-quartered with England ; on the other the fame, with 
 a label, ermine, for John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancafter. This 
 opens to a court within, which I did not much care to en- 
 ter, being the county goal, and full of prifoners, both cri- 
 minals and debtors. From this gateway the walls continue 
 and join ic to a vaft fquare tower of great height, the lower 
 part at leaft of remote antiquity ; for it has fmall round- 
 headed lights, with plain fhort pillars on each fide of them : 
 there is a third tower, alfo fquare, and of lefs dimenfions* 
 This is all the caftle. Near it, and but a little lower, ftands 
 the church, a large and plain Gothic fabrick, the high fquare 
 tower at the weft end has been rebuilt of late years, but 
 nearly in the fame ftile: there are no ornaments of arms, &c, 
 any where to be feen ; within it is lightfome and fpacious, 
 but not one monument of antiquity, or piece of painted glafa 
 is left. From the church-yard there is an extenfive fea- 
 view (for now the tide had almoft covered the fands, and 
 filled the river) and befides the greatcft part of Furnefs, I 
 could diftinguifti Pecl-caftle on the ifle of Fowdry, which lies 
 off its fouthern extremity. The town is built on the flope, 
 
 and 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 219 
 
 and at the foot of the caftle-liill, more than twice the bignefs 
 of Auckland, with many neat buildings of white ftone, hut 
 a little diforderly in their pofition, and " ad libitum." like 
 Kendal : many alfo extend below, on the keys, by the river 
 fide, where a number of fhips were moored, feme of thera 
 three mafted velfels decked out with their colours in honour 
 of the fair. Here is a good bridge of four arches over the 
 Lune, that runs, when the tide is out, in two ftreams, di- 
 vided by a bed of gravel, which is not covered but in fpring 
 tides : below the town it widens to near the breadth of the 
 Thames at London, and meets the fea at five or fix miles 
 idlftance to fouch-weft. 
 
 0€t. II. I crofTed the river and walked over a peninfula, 
 three miles, to the village of Poulton, which ftands on thfc 
 beach. An old fifhermaa mending his nets (while I enquir- 
 ed about the danger of pafling thofe fands) told me in hi» 
 dialeft, a moving llory; how a brother of the trade, a Codlery 
 as he ftiled him, driving a little cart with two daughter* 
 (women grown) in it, and his wife on horfeback following, 
 fet out one day to pafs the feven mile fands, as they had been 
 frequently ufed to do : (for nobody in the village knew them 
 better than the old man did) when they were about half-way 
 over, a thick fog rofe, and as they advanced they found the 
 ■water much deeper than they expefted: the old man was puz- 
 zled; he Hopped, and fald he would go a little way to find 
 fome mark he was acquainted with; they ftaid a while for 
 him, but in vain; they called aloud, but no reply : at laft the 
 young women prefled their mother to think where they were, 
 and go on; (he would not leave the place; Ihe wandered about 
 forlorn and amazed ; Ihc would not quit her horfe a:id get 
 into the cart with them: they determined after much time 
 wafted, to turn back, and give themfelves up to the guidance 
 of their horfes. The old woman was foon waHhed off, and 
 perilhed; the poor girls clung clofe to their cart, and the 
 horfe, fometimes wading and fometimes fwimming, brought 
 tlicm back to land alive, but fenfdefs with terror and diftrefei 
 
 and 
 
ADDENDA 
 
 and unable for many days to give any account of themrelvcj* 
 The bodies of their parents were found the next ebb : that 
 of the father a very few paces diftant from the fpot where he 
 had left them. 
 
 In the afternoon I wandered about the town, and by thd 
 quay till it grew dark- . 
 
 0£t. 12. I fet out for Settle by a fine turnpike road, 
 twenty-nine miles, through a rich and beautiful country, 
 diverfified with frequent villages and churches, very unequal 
 ground ; and on the left the river Lune winding in a deep 
 valley, its hanging banks cloathed with fine woods, through 
 which you catch long reaches of the water, as the road winds 
 about at a confiderable height above it. In the moft pic- 
 turefque part of the way, I paffed the park belonging to the 
 Hon. Mr. Clifford, a catholic. The grounds between him 
 and the river are indeed charming* ; the houfe is ordinary, 
 and park nothing but a rocky fell, fcattered over with an- 
 cient hawthorns. Next I ^ame to Hornby, a little town 
 on the river Wenning, over which a handfome bridge is now 
 building ; the caftle, in a lordly fituation, attraded me, fo 
 I walked up the hill to it : firft prefents itfelf a large white 
 ordinary faflied gentleman's houfe, and behind it rifes the 
 ancient Z^,?^, built by Edward Stanley, Lord Monteagle. He 
 died about 1529, in King Henry VIII. time. It is now only 
 a fhell, the rafters are laid within it as for flooiing, I went 
 tp a winding ftone ftair-cafe, in one corner, to the leads, and 
 
 at 
 
 * Tills fcene opens juft three miles from Lancarter, on what is called 
 the Queen' s-road. To Tee the view in perfeftion, ycu muft go into a 
 field on the left. Here Ingleborough, behind a variety of lefler mountains, 
 makes the back-ground of the profped; on each h^nd of the middle 
 diftance, rife two floping hills 5 the left cloathed with thicl< woods, 
 the right with variegated rock and herbage : beuveen them in tlie nch- 
 eft of vallies, the Lune ferpentizes for many a mile, and comes forth 
 ample and clear, through a well wooded and riclily paflured fore- 
 ground. Every feature which conftitutes ^ perfedl landfcape of the cx- 
 Unfive fert, is here not only boldly marked but aifo in its keft pofition. 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 221 
 
 at the angle is a fingle hexagon watch-tower, rlfing fomc 
 feet higher, fitted up in the talte of a modern fumtner-houfe, 
 with fcifh windows in gilt frames, a ftucco cupola, and on 
 the top a vaft gilt eagle, built by Mr. Charteris, the prefent 
 poffcffor. He is the fecond fon of the Earl of Wemyfs, 
 brother to the Lord Elcho, and grandfon to Colonel Char- 
 teris, whofe name he bears. 
 
 From the leads of the tower there is a fine view of the 
 eountry round, and much wood near the cafUe. Ingleborough, 
 which I had ften before diftinftly at Lancafter to north-eaft, 
 was completely wrapped in clouds, all but its fummit; which 
 might have been eafily miftaken for a long black cloud too, 
 fraught with an approaching ftorm. Now our road begam 
 gradually to mount towards the Appenine, the trees growing 
 lefs, and thinner of leaves, till we came to Ingleton, cightee» 
 miles; it is a pretty village, fituated very high, and yet in. 
 a valley at the foot of that huge monfter of nature, Ingle- 
 borough : two torrents crofs it, with great ftones rolled 
 along their beds initead of water; and over them are flung 
 two handfome arches. The nipping air, though the afternooa 
 was growing very bright, now taught us we were in Craven; 
 the road was all up and down, though no where very fteep ; 
 to the left were mounCaiii tops, to the right a wide valley, 
 all inclofed ground, and beyond it high hills again. In ap- 
 proaching Settle, the crags on the left drew nearer to our 
 way, till we defceiuled Brunton-brow into a chearful valley 
 (though thin of trees) to Gigglefwick, a village with a fraall 
 piece of water by its fide, covered with cots; near it a chiirch, 
 which belongs alfo to Settle ; and half a mile farther, having 
 paffed the Ribble over a bridge, I arrived there; it is a fmall 
 market town Handing directly under a rocky fell ; there 
 are rot in it above a dozen good looking houfes, the reft 
 are old and low, with little wooden porticos in front. My 
 inu pleafed me much (though fmall) for the neatnefs and 
 , civility of the good woman that kept it ; fo I lay there two 
 nights, and went, 
 
 oa. 13. 
 
a.22 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 Oa. 13. To viTit the Gordale-fcar, which lay fix miles 
 from Settle ; but that way was dired^ly over a fell, and as fhc 
 weather was not to be depended on, I went round in a chaife, 
 the only way one could get near it in a carriage, which made 
 St full thirteen miles, half of it fuch a road ! but I got fafe 
 over it, fo there's an end, and came to Malham, (pronounced 
 Maum) a village in the bofom of the mountains, feated in a 
 wild and dreary valley. From thence I was to walk a mile 
 •ver very rough ground, a torrent rattling along on the left 
 hand ; on the cliffs above hung a few goats ; one of them 
 danced and fcratched an ear with its hind foot in a place 
 where I would not have ftood ftock-llill 
 
 For all beneath the moon. 
 
 As I advanced the crags feemed to clofe in, but difcovered 
 a narrow entrance turning to the left between them : I fol- 
 lowed my guide a few paces, and the hills opened again into 
 no large fpace; and then all further way is hatred by a ftream 
 that, at the height of about fifty feet, gulhes from a hole in 
 the rock, and fpreading in large flieets over its broken front, 
 dalhes from fteep to fteep, and then rattles away in a torrent 
 down the valley : the rock on the left rifes perpendicular, 
 with ftubbed yew-trees and fhrubs ftarting from its fides, to 
 the height of at leaft 300 feet; but thefe are not the thing: 
 it is the rock to the right, under which you ftand to fee the 
 fall, that forms the principal horror of the place. From its 
 very bafe it begins to dope forward over you in one black or 
 folid mafs without any crevice in its furface, and over/hadows 
 half the area below its dreadful canopy; when I ftood at (I 
 believe) four yards diftant from its foot, the drops which per- 
 petually diftil from its brow, fell on my head ; and in one 
 part of its top, more expofed to the weather, there are loofe 
 ftones that hang in the air, and threaten vifibly fome idle fpec- 
 tator with inftant deftruftion; it is fafer to fhelter yourfelf 
 clofe to its bottom, and truft to the mercy of that enormou* 
 mafs, which nothing bat an earthquake caa ftir. The gloomy 
 
 Qncomfortabic 
 
ADDENDA. 225 
 
 uncomfortable day well futted the favage afpeft of tKc place, 
 and made it dill more formidable: I ttayed there, not with- 
 out fhuddering-, a quarter of an hour, and thought my trouble 
 richly paid; for the impreffion will laft for life. At the 
 alehoufe where I dined in Malham, Vivares, the landfcape 
 painter, had lodged for a week or more ; Smith and Bellers 
 had alfo been there, and two prints of Gordale have been en- 
 graved by them. 
 
 Oft. 14. Leaving my comfortable inn, to which I hai 
 returned from Gordale, I fet out for Skipton, fixteen miles. 
 From feveral parts of the road, and in many places^ about 
 Settle, I faw at once the three famous hills, of this country, 
 Ingleborough, Pennygant, and Pendle; the firft is efteemed 
 the higheft, and their features not to be defcribed, but by 
 the pencil *. 
 
 Craven, 
 
 * Without the pencil nothing indeed is to be defcribed with precifion : 
 and even then that pencil ought to be in the very hand of the writer, 
 ready to fupply with outlines every thing that his pen cannot exprefe 
 by words. As far as language can defcribe, Mr. Gray has, I think, 
 purtied its powers : for rejeding, as I before hinted every general un- 
 ineaning and hyperbolical phrafe, he has felefted (botli in this journal, 
 and on other fimihr occafions) the plainefi:, fimpleft, and moft direfl: 
 terms: yet notwithftanding his judicious care, in the vife of thefe, I 
 muft own I feel them defeftive. They prefent me, it is true, with a 
 pidlure of the fame fpecies, but not with the identical pidture: my 
 imagination receives clear and diftinft, but not true and exadt images. 
 It may be aflctd then, why am I entertained by welj written defcrip- 
 tions? I anfwer, becaufe they amufe rather than inform me; and be- 
 caufe, after I liave feen the places defcribed, they ferVfe to recal to my 
 memory the original fcene, almoft as well as the trueft drawing or pic- 
 ture. In the meanwhile my mind is flattered by thinking it has ac- 
 quired fome conception of the place, and refts contented ia an innocent 
 error, wliich nothing but ocular proof can deteft, and which, when de- 
 tefted, does not diminiih the pleafure I had before received, but augments 
 it by fuperadding the charms of comparifon and verification; and here- 
 in I would place the real and only merit of verbal profe defcription. 
 To fpeak of poetical, would lead me beyond the limits as well as pur- 
 pofe of this note. I cannot, however, help adding that I have feen one 
 piece of verbal defcription, which completely fatisfies me, becaufe it is 
 
 thr«uglK>ut 
 
224 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 Craven, after all, is an iinpleafing country when feen ffcjufi 
 a height ; its valleys are chiefly witlc, and either marthy or 
 ificlofid padure, with a few trees. Niirribers of black catfic 
 are fatted here, both of the Scotch breed, and a larg-fr fort 
 •f oxen with great horns. There is little cultivated ground, 
 #xcept a few oats. 
 
 Skipton, to which I went through Long-prefton and Gar- 
 grave, is a pretty large market-town, in a valley, with one 
 ▼ery broad (Ireet gently floping do'A'nwards from the caftle, 
 which rtands at the head of it. Tin's is one of ths good 
 Countefs's buildings*, but on old foundations; it is not ve:y 
 large, but of a handfome antique appeaiance, with round 
 towtrs. A grand gateway, bridge, and moa'., furrounded 
 by many old trees. It is in good repair and kept up as ihe 
 habitation of the Earl of Tiianet, though he rarely come& 
 thither: what with the fleet, and a foolirti difpute about 
 •haifes, that delayed me, 1 did not fee the infide of it, but 
 
 went 
 
 throughout afTifted by mafterly delineation. It is -compofed by the Rev. 
 Mr. Gilpin, of Cheam in Surry ; and contains, among other places, an ac- 
 count of the very fcenes, which, in this tour, our author vifited. This 
 gentleman pofleffing the conjoined talents of a writer and defigner, has 
 employed them in this manu Icript to every purpofe of pidturefque beauty, 
 in the defcription of which a corredt eye, a praftifed pencil, and an elo- 
 quent pen could affift him. He has, confequently, produced a work 
 unique in its kind at once. But I have faid it is in manufcript, and, 
 I am afraid, likely to continue fo; for would his modefty permit him to 
 print it, the great expence of plate* would make its publication almofl 
 imprafticable. , ■ 
 
 [This excellent note feems to contain the jufteft criticifm on the nature 
 and fiowers of •verbal defcriftion, as applied to landjcapes and frofpeBz, 
 And now that the reader has gone through our author's fpecimens of it 
 in the foregoing Gui-.le^ if it appear, thai he has not availed hiniftif of 
 thefe precepts as much as he might have done, he may make a fcrutlny 
 into his errors, a critical leflbn, in the next degree ufeful to inltruftions 
 Werived from fuch examples as Mr. Gray's ; and thus reap improvement, 
 as well as amufement, from the efforts of a liafty and redundant pen;- 
 Mr. Gilpin's tour is now publifhed.j 
 
 Anne C«untefe of Pe;nbr«l{e and Montgomery. 
 
ADDENDA. 225 
 
 went on fifteen miles to Otley ; firft up Shode-bank, the 
 fteepell hill I ever faw a road carried over in England, for it 
 mounts in a draight line (writhout any other repofe for the 
 horfej! than by placin»r llones every now and then behind the 
 wheels) for a full mile; then the road goes on a level along 
 the brow of this high hill over Rumbald-moor, till it gently 
 defcends into Wiiarldale, fo they call the vale of the Wharf, 
 and a beautiful vale it is, well wooded, well cultivated, well 
 inhabited, but with high crags at a diftance, that border the 
 green country on either hand; through the midft of it, deep, 
 clear, and full to the brink, and of no inconfiderabie breacth, 
 runs in long windings the river. How it comes to pafs that 
 it fhould be fo fine and copious a Itieam here, and at Tad- 
 cafter, (fo much lower) fhould have nothing but a wide ilony 
 channel without water, I cannot tell you. I pafTed through 
 Long-Addingham, Ilkeley (pronounced Eecly) diltinguifh- 
 ed by a lofty brow of loofe rocks, to the right; Burkley, a 
 neat and pretty village among trees ; on the oppofite fide 
 of the river lay Middleton-lodge, belonging to a catliolic 
 gentleman of that name; Weilon, a venerable Hone fabrick, 
 with large offices, of Mr. Vavafoiir, the meadows in front 
 gently defcending to the water, and behind a great and fha- 
 dy wood; Farnley (Mr. Favvke's) a place like the laft, but 
 larger, and rifing higher on the fide of the hill. Otley is a 
 large' airy town, with clean, but low ruftic buildings, and a 
 bridge over the Wiiarf ; I went into its fpacious Go; hie 
 church, which has been new roofed, with a flat ftucco-ccil- 
 ing; in a corner of it is the monument of Thomas Lord 
 Fairfax, and Helen Aflce, his Lady, defcended from the Clif- 
 fords and Latimers, as her epitaph fays; the figures (which 
 are not ill-cut, particularly his in armour, but bare-headed) 
 lie on the tomb. I take them to be the parents of the 
 famous Sir Thomas Fairfax. 
 
 ARTICLE 
 
229 ADDENDA. 
 
 A R T I C L E IV. 
 ODE TO THE SUN, 
 
 ■ BY MR. CUMBERLAND, PUBLISHED IN IJjS. 
 
 SOUL of the world, refulgent Sun, 
 Oh take not from my raviflit fight 
 Thofe golden beams of living light, 
 Nor, ^ere thy daily courfe be run. 
 
 Precipitate the night. 
 Lo, where the ruffian clouds arifc, 
 Ufurp the abdicated ficies, 
 And feize the aethcrial throne ; 
 
 Sullen fad the fcene appears, 
 Huge Helvellyn (treams with tears! 
 Hark, 'tis giant Skiddaw's groan, 
 I hear terrific Lowdore roar ; 
 The Sabbath of thy reign is o'er, 
 The anarchy's begun ; 
 Father of light, return ; break forth, refulgent fun ! 
 
 What if the rebel blaft fliall rend 
 ' Thefe nodding horrors from the mountain's brow 
 
 Hither thy glad deliverance fend, 
 Ah fave the votarift, and accept the vow ! 
 
 And fay, thro' thy diurnal round. 
 
 Where, great Speftator, haft thou found 
 
 Such folemn foul-inviting fhades, 
 Ghoftly dells, religious glades? 
 Where Penitence may plant its meek abode. 
 And hermit Meditation meet its God.. 
 
 Now by the margin of yon glalTy deep 
 My penfive vigils let ijie keep ; 
 There, by force of Runic fpells. 
 Shake the grot where Nature dwells : 
 
 And 
 
ADDENDA. 227 
 
 And in the witching hour of night, 
 Whillt thy pale lifter lends her lliadowy light. 
 Summon the naked wood-nymphs to my light. 
 
 Trembling now with giddy tread, 
 Prefs the mofs on Gowdar's head ; 
 But lo, where fits the bird of Jove, 
 Couch'd in his eyrie far above ; 
 Oh, lend thine eye, thy pinion lend. 
 Higher, ytt higher let me ftdl afcend : 
 
 'Tis done ; my forehead fmites the flcies, 
 To the laft fummit of the cliff I rife ; 
 I touch the facred ground, 
 Where ftep of man was never found ; 
 I fee all Nature's rude domain around. 
 
 Peace to thy empire, queen of calm defires, 
 Health crown thy hills, and plenty robe thy vales j 
 May thy groves wave untouch'd by wafteful firts. 
 Nor commerce crowd thy lakes with fordid falls! 
 
 Prefs not fo faft upon my aching fight 
 Gigantic fhapes, nor rear your heads fo high, 
 As if ye meant to war againft the fl<y. 
 Sons of old Chaos and primasval Night. 
 Such were the h&ights enfhrined Bruno trod, 
 When on the cliffs he huqg his tow'ring cell, 
 Amongft the clouds afpired to dwell. 
 And half afcended to his God. 
 
 The prim canal, the level green. 
 The clofe-clipt htd^a- that bounds the flourifht fcene. 
 
 What rapture can fuch forms impart. 
 With all the fpruce impertiiience of art i 
 
 Ye pageant dreams, that roll in ftatc 
 By the vain windows of the great. 
 Reft on your muddy ooze, aiid fee 
 
 0^2 Old 
 
22$ 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 Old majeftic Derwent force 
 His Independent courfe, 
 And learn of him and nature to be free : 
 
 And you, triumphal arches, fhrink, 
 Ye temples, tremble, and ye columns, fink I 
 One nod from Wallow's craggy brow 
 Shall crufl^ the dome 
 Of facerdotal Rome, 
 And lay her glittering gilded trophies low. 
 
 Now downward as I bend my eye, 
 What is that atom I tfpy, 
 That fpeck in nature's plan ? 
 Great Heaven ! is that a man ? 
 And hath that little wretch its cares. 
 Its freaks, its follies, and its airs ; 
 And do I hear the infedl fay, 
 
 My lakes, my mountains, rriy domain ?" 
 O weak, contemptible, and vain ! 
 The tenant of a day. 
 Say to old Skiddaw, " Change thy place." 
 Heave Helveltyn from his bafe, 
 Or bid impetuous Derwent (land 
 At the proud waving of a matter's hand. 
 
 Now with filent ftep, and flow, 
 Defcend, but firft forbear to blow. 
 Ye felon winds let difcord ceafe. 
 And nature feal an elemental peace : 
 Hufh, not a whifper here. 
 Beware, for Echo on the watch 
 Sits with ereft and liftening ear 
 The fecrets of the fcene to catch. 
 Then fwelling as fhe rolls around 
 The hoarfe reverberated found, 
 With loud repeated fhocks 
 She beats the loofc impending rocks, 
 
 Tears 
 
ADDENDA. 229 
 
 Tears down rhe fragments big with death, 
 And hurls it thundering on the wretch beneath,' 
 
 Not fo the Naiad *, flie defies 
 The faithlefs echo, and with yelling cries 
 Howls on the fummit of rude Lowdore's brow ; 
 Then with a defperate leap 
 Springs from the rocky fteep. 
 And runs enamour'd to the lake below. 
 So the Cambrian minftrel flood 
 Bending o'er old Conway's flood, 
 White as foam his filver beard. 
 And loud and fhrill his voice was heard j 
 All the while down Snowden's fide. 
 
 Winding flow in dread array. 
 He faw the viftor king purfue his way j 
 Then fearlefs ru(h'd into the foaming tide, 
 Curf'd him by all his idol gods, and died. 
 
 Ah 1 where is he that fwept the founding lyre. 
 And while he touch'd the matter firing. 
 Bad ruin feize the ruthkfs hing, 
 
 W^ith all a prophet's fire ? 
 Mourn him, ye naiads, and ye wood-nymps mourn, 
 But chiefly ye, who rule o'er Kefwick's vale, 
 
 Your vifitor bewail, 
 And pluck frefli laurels for his hallow'd urn ; 
 He faw your fcenes in harmony divine, 
 
 On him indulgent funs could fhine. 
 Me turbid flcies and threat'ning clouds await, 
 Emblems, alas 1 of my ignoble fate, 
 
 But fee the embattled vapours break, 
 Difperfe and fly. 
 Polling like couriers down the flcy ; 
 The grey rock glitters in the glafly lake ; 
 
 CL3 An* 
 * This alludes to the great water-fall at Lowdorc. 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 And now the mountain tops are feci 
 
 Frowning amidft the blue ferene ; 
 
 The variegated groves appear, 
 Deckt in the colours of the waning year ; 
 
 And, as new beauties they unfold, 
 
 Dip their flcirts in beaming gold, 
 
 Thee favac^e Wybnrn, now I hail, 
 
 Del icious Grafmere's calm retreat. 
 
 Arid ftately Windermere I greet. 
 
 And Kefwick's fweet fantaftic vale : 
 
 But let her naiads yield to thee. 
 
 And lowly bend the fiibjeft knee, 
 
 Imperial lake of Patrick's dale* : 
 
 For neither Scottifli Lomond'o pride, 
 
 Nor faiooth Killarney's filver tide. 
 
 Nor ought that learned Ponffin drew. 
 Or daihing Rofa flung upon my view. 
 Shall fhake thy fovereign undifturbed right. 
 Great fcene of wonder and fublime delight ! 
 
 Hail to thy beams, O fun ! for this difplay, 
 What, glorious orb, can I repay ? 
 
 Not Mcmnon's coflly flirine. 
 Not the' white courfers of imperial Rome, 
 Nor the rich fmoke of Perfia's hecatomb ; 
 
 Such proud oblations are not mine ; 
 Nor thou my fimple tribute fliall refnfe. 
 The thanks of an unproftituted mufe ; 
 And may no length of ftill returning day 
 Strike from thy forehead one refulgent ray; 
 But let each tuneful, each attendent fphere, 
 To lateft time thy ftated labours chear, 
 And with new Pceans crown the finifht year. 
 
 ARTICLE 
 
 * This alliides to the gre^t lake of UUs-water, fituate in Patterdale, 
 :. e. Patrick's dale, a fcene of grandeur and fublimity far fuperior in my 
 •pinion to the lake of Kefwick. 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 ARTICLE V. 
 
 A DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 DUNALD-MILL-HOLE, 
 ByMr. A.W. 
 
 TAKEN FROM THE ANNUAL REGISTER FOR I760. 
 
 Lancajler, Augujl 26, 1760. 
 
 LAST Sunday I vlfited a cavern about five miles from 
 hence, near the road to Kirkby-Lonfdale, called Dunald- 
 mill-hole, a curiofity, I. think, inferior to none of the kind in 
 Derbyfiiire, which I have alfo feen. It is on the middle of a 
 large common, and we are led to it by a , brook, near as big 
 as the new river, which after turning a corn-mill, jull at the 
 entrance of the cave, runs In at its mouth by feveral beautiful 
 cafcades, continuing its courfe two miles under a large moun- 
 tain, and at lail making its appearance again near Carnforth, 
 a village in the road to Kendal. The entrance of this lub- 
 terraneoiis channel has fomething moft pleafingly horrible in 
 
 it, From the mill at the top, you defcend for about ten 
 
 yards perpendicular, by means of chinks in the rocks, and 
 (hrnbs of trees; the road is then almoft parallel to the horizon, 
 leading to the right, a little winding, till you have fome hun- 
 dreds of yards thick of rocks and minerals above you. In 
 this manner we proceeded, fometimes through vaults fo ca- 
 pacious, we could not fee either roof or fides ; and fometimes 
 on all four, from its narrownefs, ftill following the brook, 
 which entertained us with a fort of harmony well fuiting the 
 place ; for the different height of its falls were as fo many 
 keys of mufic, which all being conveyed to us by the amazing 
 echo, greatly added to the niajeftic horror which furrounded 
 us. In our return we were more particular in our obfervations. 
 The beautiful lakes (formed by the brook in the hollow part 
 of the cavern) realize the fabulous Styx; and the murmuring 
 falls from one rock to another broke the rays of our candles, 
 
 QL4 
 
23^ ADDENDA. 
 
 as to form the moft romantic vibrations and appearance! 
 upon the vaiiegated roof. The fides too are not lefs remark- 
 able for fine colouring ; the damp, the creeping vegetables, 
 and the feanris in the marble and limeftone parts of the rock, 
 make as many tints as are feen in the rainbow, and are co- 
 vered with a perpetual rarnilh from the juft. weeping fprings 
 that trickle from the roof. The curious in grottos, cafcades, 
 &:c. might here obtain a juft taite of nature. When we ar- 
 rived at the mouth, and once more hailed all-chearing day- 
 light, I could not but admire the uncouth manner in which 
 nature has thrown together thofe huge rocks, which com. 
 pofe the arch over the entrance, but as if confcious of its 
 rudenefs, fhe has cloathed it with trees and Hirubs of the 
 moft various and beautiful verdure, which bend downwards, 
 and with their leaves cover all the rugged parts of the rock. 
 
 As I never met with an account of this place In any other 
 author-, T therefore think it the greater curlofity ; but its 
 obfcure fituation I take to be the reafon. 
 
 [Parties, returning from the tour of the lakes to Lancafter, 
 who chafe to fee the above natural curlofity, muft leave the 
 Lancafter road to the left, at the guide-poft, for Kellet, about 
 4 miles from Burton. When in the village (a mile farther 
 on) enquire for the road to the mill, which is then near 2 
 miles diftant. Perhaps, when arrived at the cavern, if the 
 traveller Hiould not think it equal to his expeaatlon and trouble, 
 it may yield him fome compenfation to enjoy one of the beft 
 p-ofpeds in the country, which is then about a mile off. 
 Though hitherto unnoticed, a good deal, I think, might be 
 juftly faid In its praife ; but previous defcriptlon is generally 
 more tirefome than welcome. — To find this view, proceed 
 eaftvvard, in the dlrcftlon of the laft lane leading to the mill, 
 to the top of the higheft rife that you will fee on the common 
 before you, and you will be at the ftation. A very little to 
 the eaft, you will fee a good road on the moor leading to 
 Lancafter, diftant about 4 miles, and the ride will foon enter- 
 tain with fcveral agreeable objeds on the banks of the Lune.] 
 
 ARTICLE 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 *33 
 
 ARTICLE VI. 
 A DESCRIPTION 
 
 • F SOME NATURAL CURIOSITIES IN THE WESTERN EDGff 
 OF YORKSHIRE, BY MR. ADAM WALKER, LECTURER IW 
 NATURAL PHILOSOPHY. TAKEN FR.OM THE GENERAL 
 EVENING POST, SEPT. 25, 1779- 
 
 SIR, 
 
 I Here fend you an account of a tour I made fome time 
 ago, through the mountains and caverns near Settle, 
 which I think no way infetior to thofe of Derby fhire. 
 
 Nigh the Chapel in the dale, on the north fide of Inglc- 
 , borough, I met with three caverns that are totally unlike 
 any in this ifland, tho' caverns are common in all limeftone 
 countries. The firft (nigh the chapel) is a pit finking from 
 an even furface about forty yards into the ground, and is 
 about the fame number of yards in diameter. At the bot- 
 tom is a deep pool of water, from whence iffues a fubterra- 
 neous brook, but through fo narrow a paflage, that in wet 
 weather, the cavern fills up, and overflows its brim. — A 
 quarter of a mile above this is another pit, of a paralelloplpcd 
 form, being a chafm between two perpendicular rocks, and 
 tho' upwards of forty yards deep, one may eafily leap over it. 
 It feems oi^e of thofe breaks, or faults (as miners call 'em) 
 where the regular ftrata have been broken, and one part of 
 them has funk below the other ; for the bands of rock lie 
 pretty horizontal, and in their fiffures are found foffils of 
 very curious genera, (hells, fidi-bones, pipy-flints, with con- 
 cretes of (hells, ftones, mofs, and other vegetables, in one 
 mafs. Small fcrew-like cylinders, fome with holes through, 
 which all effervefce with an acid, and creep in a plate filled 
 with vinegar, like thofe found near Carrickfergus, in Ire- 
 land, by the difcharge of their fixt air. 
 
?34 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 But a couple of hundred yards above this another cavern 
 opens, much more aftonifhing than .the others. The firfl 
 approach to this prefents a perpendicular defcent from nearly 
 a level furface, beautifully bordered with trees and fhrubs, 
 which nature feems to have meant as a guard as well as beauty. 
 On one fide you may defcend, by crawling from one broken 
 ftratum of rock to another, till you are twenty yards beneath 
 the furface : in the defcent one may reft between the pro- 
 jefting parts of the rock, or creep many yards horizontally 
 between them, where we fhall find the rocks and ftones en- 
 crutted with fpar, and the cavernous parts filled with petri- 
 faftions, in the fhape of fhells, mofs, icicles, &c. Moft of 
 the fparry and roof incruftations, I take to be the fine par- 
 ticles of the limeftone diffolved by the rain water, in its de- 
 fcent through the rocks, which finking flowly through the 
 roof of thefe caverns, the water evaporates, and leaves the 
 fine particles of ftone to concrete behind ; forming hollow 
 conic figures on the roof ; or if they fall on the bottom of 
 the cavern, form thofe knobs of calcarious foflil, which, cut 
 off horizontally, are polifhed into curioufly variegated flabs. 
 That the fame impregnated waters falling on fhells, fifii- 
 bones, &c. Ihould in time difplace the calcarious matter of 
 ■which thefe are naturally formed, and that thefe ftony par- 
 ticles fhould in time affume the fame fhape and form the 
 fliells, bones, fnakes, .&c. fo commonly found in limeftone 
 countries, I cannot fay I am fo clear in. — May it not be 
 that nature has ordained, that particles of fuch and fuch 
 properties, meeting with a proper nidus in the bowels of the 
 earth, and fimilar to that in which they may affemble on 
 the outfide of an animal, may run into the fame forms, and 
 amufe us with the fhape of cockles, limpets, fnakes, &c. 
 formed in the middle of rocks ? 
 
 But to refume our journey down this amazing cavern. — 
 After defcending from ledge to ledge in a retrograde mo- 
 tion, through arches of prodigious rocks, thrown together 
 by the rude but awful hand of nature;. at the depth of 70 
 
 yards 
 
ADDENDA, 
 
 «35 
 
 yards we fee a parabolic cafcade, rufliing from a hole nigh 
 the fiirface, and falling the whole 70 yards, with a roar, 
 which, reverberated by the rocks above, coDtoiinds an4 
 aftonifhes the moft intrepid ear! The fj^ray avifiiig from 
 this cafcade fills the whole cavern, and if the fun happens to 
 (hine into it, generates a moft vivid and furprifing rainbow. 
 Another cafcade, of not quite fo great a fail, iffues perpen- 
 dicularly from a projt£llng rock with equal rapidity as the 
 firft, and is certainly a part of the fame fubterraneous brook; 
 they fall together into a narrow pool at the bottom, which 
 meafures 37 yards in depth; and proceeding underground 
 about a mile, break out, and form the large brook that runs 
 by Ingleton, and from thence to the river Lune. In the time 
 of great rains, the fubterraneous channel that conveys away 
 the water becomes too fmall, and then the cavern fills to the 
 depth of above 100 yards, and runs over at the furface. 
 
 To a mind capable of being impreffed with the grand and 
 fublime of nature, this is a fccne that infpires a pleafure 
 chaftifed by aftonifhment ! Perfonal fafety alfo infinuates 
 iffelf into the various feelings, where both the eye and ear 
 
 are fo tremendoufly affailed To fee as much water as 
 
 would turn feveral mills, ru(h from a hole near 70 yards 
 above the eye, in fuch a projeftile as fhews its fubterraneous 
 fall to be very confiderable before it enters the cavern ; and 
 to fee the fine fl<irting of wood, with various fantaftic roots 
 and (hrubs through a fpray, enlivened by a perfeft rainbow, 
 fo far above the eye, and yet within the earth, has fome- 
 thing more romantic and awful in it than any thing of the 
 kind in the three kingdoms ! 
 
 Afcending from the dark excavations we found at the 
 bottom of this dreary cavern, we once more blefs ourfelves 
 in broad day-light, and begin to mount the rugged fides of 
 frowning Ingleborough. Its top may have been a Roman 
 ftation for any thing I know; there are certainly the remains 
 of a great circular ditch that inclofcs the fummit, but the 
 
 extenfiye 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 cxtenfiTC and variegated profpeft feduced me from conjcftiircs 
 and learned furmlfes. The fouthern profped is a rugged 
 barrier, that feems to turn the eye towards the fine plains of 
 Lancafhire and Chefhire; with our glaffes we could eafily dif- 
 tinguifli the Dee feparate the plain from the "Welch moun- 
 tains ; — the fine indentations made by the bays of Liverpool 
 and Prefton, lead the eye northward to that of Lancafter, 
 which appeared beneath our feet as a map, full of capes and 
 inlets. But the fea in front, and the Weftmorland mountains 
 to the right, make th^e fublime of this profpeft ; — before us 
 the flat fields and woods infenfibly melt into union with the 
 fea — while the black mountains frown over that element, 
 and feem to fpurn it from their feet. The Hill-bell, Langdale- 
 pikes, Black-comb, &c. are eafily diltinguifiied in this chaotic 
 affemblage ; while the coaft of Galloway in Scotland, and the 
 Ifle of Man, feem as clouds in the back-ground. The eaft 
 profpeft is a range of rich fheep moors, of which Ingleborough 
 appears the furly fentry. In our road to Settle we met with 
 the Ribble, which tumbles into a deep cavern, and is lofl in 
 the bowels of the mountains for upwards of three miles, when 
 it ifTues again into day-light, and with a continued roar makes 
 its way to Settle. From hence I rode through a dreadful fog- 
 to Malm (or Malham) about fix miles to the eaft, and the 
 road ending in a ftieep-track upon the high moors, was in 
 much danger of lofing my way ; but a blaft of wind giving 
 me a glimpfe of the vale, I got there very fafe. 
 
 My firft excurfion was to the tarn^ (or little lake) flcirtcd 
 on one fide by a peat bog, and rough limeftone rocks, on 
 the other ; it abounds in fine trout, but has little elfe remark- 
 able, except being the head of the river Air, which iffuing 
 from it, finks into the ground very near the lake, and appears 
 again under the fine rock which faces the village. In the 
 time of great rains this fubterraneous paffage is too narrow; 
 the brook then makes its way over the top of the rock falling 
 4a a moft majettic cafcade full 60 yards in one ftieet. This 
 bcaitiful rock is like the age-tinted wall of a prodigious 
 
 caftle j 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 *37 
 
 •aftle ; the ftonc is very white, and from the ledges hang 
 various ftirubs and vegetables, which with the tints given it 
 by the bog water, &c* gives it a variety that I never before 
 favv fo pleafing in a plain rock. Gordale-fcar was the objeft 
 of this excurfion. My guide brought me firft to a fine ftieet 
 cafcade in a glen about half a mile below the fear, the rocks 
 of a beautiful variegation and romantic flirubberry. We then 
 proceeded up the brook, the pebbles of which I found incruf- 
 ted with a foft petrify 'd coating, calcarious, flimy, and of a 
 light brown colour. — I faw the various ftrata of the limeftonc 
 mountains approach day-light in extenfive and ftriking bandjs, 
 running nearly horizontal, and a rent in them (from whence 
 the brook ifTued) of perpendicular immence rocks : — on turn- 
 ing the corner of one of thefe, and feeing the rent complete 
 — good heavens ! what was my aftonilhment ! The Alps, the 
 Pyrenees, Killarney, Lqch- Lomond, or any other wonder 
 
 of the kind l had ever feen, do not afford fuch a chafm! 
 
 Confider your felf in a winding ftreet, with honfes above am 
 hundred yards high on each fide of you ; — then figure tm 
 yourfelf a cafcade ruihing from an upper window, and tum- 
 bling over carts, waggons, fallen houfes, &c. in promifcu- 
 ous ruin, and perhaps a cockney idea may be formed of this 
 tremendous cliff. But if you would conceive it properly, 
 depend upon neither pen nor pencil, for 'tis impffible for 
 either to give you an adequate idea of it. — I can fay no more, 
 than that I believe the rocks to be above loo yards high, 
 that in feveral places they projeft above loo yards over their 
 bafe, and approach the oppofite rock fo near that one would 
 almoft imagine it poflible to lay a plank from one to the o- 
 theu At the upper end of this rent (which may be about 
 300 yards horizontally long) there gufhes a mofl threatening 
 cafcade though a rude arch of monftrous rocks, and tum- 
 bling through many fantaftic maffes of its own forming, comes 
 to a rock of entire petrifatlion, down which it has a variety 
 of piflurefque break?, before it enters a channel that convey* 
 it pretty uniformly away. — I take thefe whimfical fhapes to 
 be the children of the fpray, formed in droughty weather, 
 
 when 
 
a3S A D D E N D x\. 
 
 when the water has time to evaporate, and leave tlie Aorr 
 matter uninterrupted in its cohtfion. Thefe petrifaftioui 
 are very porous; crumhly when dry, and pulpy when wet, 
 and ihaped a good deal like crooktd knotty wood. 
 
 I found here a ftratum of white clay, perfeftly free from 
 grit, when tried by the teeth — it does not efftrvcfce with art 
 acid, nor diffolvf in water. When dry 'tis as white as this 
 paper; light, dofe, foapy, compacft, and very hard. It ap- 
 pears to me like the petuntzee of the Chinefe, and though I 
 have not tried it in the fire, believe it might be well wortk 
 the china or pot manufailiirer's examination, 
 
 I am, Sir, your humble fervant, 
 
 ADAM WALKER. 
 
 Ko. 28. Haymarket, London, 
 September, zoth, 
 
 [It is apprehended the printer mufl: have made a miftake 
 in the dimenfions of the natural curiofities at Chapel in the 
 dale ; if we read feet, inttead of yards, we fhall be much 
 nearer the truth. 
 
 — There are feveral curious particulars relating to Ingle- 
 borough not mentioned in the above defcription, which may 
 be feen in an accurate account of this mountain, publifhed 
 in the /Innual Reg'ijler for 1761. 
 
 The objefts defcribed in the above letter lie in the York- 
 filire road from Kendal to London, and may be beft vifited 
 from Kendal on your return from the lakes — The route will 
 be thus. From Kendal to Kirkby-Lonfdale 12 miles. From 
 thence to Ingleton 7 miles. From thence to Chapel in thfc 
 dale 4 miles, where enquiry muft be made for the curiofities 
 in that neighbourhood. — Proceed from thence to Settle, by 
 Horton 10 miles, which is 6 miles diftant from Gordale-fcar.} 
 
 ARTICLE 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 439 
 
 ARTICLE Vlt. 
 A TOUR TO THE CAVES, 
 
 IN THE 
 
 WEST-RIDING OF YORKSHIRE.- 
 
 IN A LETTER TO A FRIEND *j 
 
 ^ -Of antres vaft, and defarts idle, 
 
 Rough quarries, rocks, and hills, wlaofe heads toiich heaven, 
 It was my hint to fpeak. 
 
 Shakespeare's Othello, Ak I. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 ACCORDING to promife, I fit down to give you an 
 account of our fumnner's excnrfion. — After having 
 made the tour of the lakes, we were induced to proceed frorti 
 Kendal by KIrkby-Lonfdale, Ingleton, Chapel in the dale* 
 Horton, and Settle, in order to fee the caves and other natu- 
 ral curioiities in Craven in the Weft-riding of Yorkfliire. 
 This fecond part of our tour was more entertaining to moft 
 of the party than the firft, being peculiarly adapted to oar 
 tafte for natural hiftory, for the great and fublime. While fome 
 are pleafed with the gay and beautiful, others are only to be 
 roufed and afFefted by the grand and terrible. The ftrong 
 and nervous fenfations require objefts proper for their grati- 
 fication, no lefs than the moft nice and delicate taftes. — If 
 elegant profpe<St8 and the refinements of art are {\i\it6.t.o thefei 
 the rough, irregular, and ftupendous works of nature, are n6 
 leis adapted to the enjoyments of the former. Objefts ac- 
 commodated 
 
 * This work, with the addition of fome philofophical conjedures on 
 the deluge, remarks on the origin of fountains, and obfervations on the 
 afcent and defcent of vapours, occafioned hy fadts peculiar to the pla- 
 ces vifited ; alfo a gloflTary of old words ufed in the norfh of En^aiid i 
 may be Ixad of the publifhirs, price u. id. 
 
a4o ADDENDA. 
 
 dommodated to the hardihood of a genius truly fubh'me, arc 
 only to be met with in this ifland, among the wild and irre- 
 gular mountains of the north, among the roaring catara£lj 
 that roll foaming down precipitate from their lofty fummits, 
 and the huge and dreary caverns, or profound and yawning 
 ehafms they contain within their fides: — it is here that nature 
 delights, as it were, to perform her magnificent woiks in 
 fecret, filently fatisfied with felf approbation, — As the moft 
 amufing part of our tour, was in a country not much frequent- 
 ed by the curious and fpeculative traveller, and never yet de- 
 fcribed to the public, an account of the objefts we met with, 
 may perhaps be not unenteitaining : they may tend alfo to 
 excite the curiofity of vifiting thofe unfrequented, yet ex- 
 traordinary parts of our own native country, and ta commu- 
 nicate that rational pleafu re, which a benevolent mind wi/he« 
 every one of the fame ftntiments to partake of. 
 
 About fix o'clock, one morning in June, we fet off from 
 Kendal, and after travelling about a dozen miles, along a 
 good turnpike road over Endmoor, and Cowbrow, we arrived 
 at Kirkby-Lonfdale ioon after eight. About the mid-way 
 we left the little tteep white mountain, Farlton-knot, on the 
 right about a mile. It is all compofed of folid limeltone, 
 and is two or three hundred yards in height. Thofe who 
 have feen both, fay, that on the weft fide it is very like the 
 rock at Gibraltar. There were feveral good manfion houfes 
 by the road fide, which, at the begining of this century, 
 were inhabited by a fubttantial fet of yeomanr-y and coun- 
 try gentlemen, the moft ufeful members of a community : 
 they are now however moftly let out to farmers; the defire 
 of improving their fortunes in trade, or the pleai^ure of liv- 
 ing in towns, have induced the owners to leave them : — re- 
 ▼erfes of fortune or new attachments have cauftd many to 
 fell them, after they had been continued many centuries 
 in their families. Kirkby-Lonfdale is a neat, well paved, 
 clean town, ornamented with feveral genteel houfes, ad- 
 joining to feme of which are elegant gardens. The houfes 
 
 are 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 are covered with blue^ flate, which has an agreeable efF.ft 
 on the eye of a ftranger. A fmall brook runs through the 
 market llreet, wliich is ufcful and commodious to the in- 
 habitants ; afterwards it turns feveral mills in its ftecp de- 
 fcent to the river Lune. The church is a largt and decent 
 ftrucJ^ure, The roof is covered with lead, and fiipportci by 
 three rows of pillars. The fteeple is a fquare lower, con- 
 taining fix bells; the muhc of whicli we were entertained 
 with at nine o'clock, they being played on by the chimes 
 every three hours, Oppolite to the church gates is the old 
 hall, taken notice of one hundred and fifty vears a^o by 
 drunken Barnaby in his Itinerary. — It is ftill an inn, and n« 
 doubt keeps up its ancient charadler. 
 
 Vent Lonfclale, ub'i cernam 
 yiulam fadam in tahei nam ; 
 Nitida porta, n'lvet niuri, 
 Cyalh'i plen'i, pauca cune ; 
 Edunt, bibmt, ludunt, ridenty 
 Curd dignum, nihil vident. 
 
 I came to Lonfdale, where I ftaid 
 
 At Hall, into a tavern made; 
 
 Neat gates, white w.dls, nought was fparlng, 
 
 Pots brimful, no thought of caring ; 
 
 They eat, drink, laugh, are itill mirth making; 
 
 Nought tjbey iee that's worth care taking. 
 
 Ontour entrance into the church-yard we were ftruek with 
 the neatnefs and eltgant hmplicity of the vicarage houfe, 
 which faced us. The plcafaiU garden adjoining, ornamented 
 with a neat ottagonal liimmcr-houfe, commanding one of 
 the moll delightful .profpeds of nature, muft icnder this 
 fweet retreat an happy abode to the worthy vicar. 
 
 We walked through the church-yard, which is large and 
 fpacious, along the margin of an high nnd iteep bank, to a 
 ■ eat white manfion-houfe fuH in view, iomewhat above half 
 
 R a mile 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 a mile diftant, called Underlay. — The profpeft was of the 
 moft amufing kind. At the foot of the fteep bank on which 
 we walked, being about forty or fifty yards perpendicular^ 
 glided the large, pellucid river Lune, amongft the rocks and 
 pebbles, which amufed the ear, whilft the eye was enter- 
 taining itfelf with a vail variety of agreeable obje6ts. A 
 tranfparent flieet of ftill water about half a mile in length 
 lay flretched out befoie us : at the high end of it was a 
 grotefque range of impending rocko of red ftoiie, about thirty 
 yards in perpendicular height, which had an excellent cfftdl 
 in the fcene, both by their coh)ur and fituation. We were 
 told that in winter this precipice was in fome parts fo gla- 
 zed over with ice, from the trickhng water down the furface, 
 as to make it appear like a flieet of alabafler. From other 
 parts of the impending rocks hung great and enormous ici- 
 cles, which made it appear like an huge organ. 
 
 After the eye had traverfed over a rich and fertile vale, 
 variegated wiih woods and country houfes, the profpeft was 
 terminated with a chain of lofty mountains, which run in a 
 dire£lion from fouth to north, parallel to the courfe of the 
 river. The neareft were not above two or three miles off, 
 and looked like the bold and furly fentries of a legion, that 
 feemed ftacioned beyond them. On our return we were 
 amufed with profpedls of a different nature. The church 
 and town before us enlivened the fcene : fome mill-wheels, 
 between them and the river, added an agreeable variety with 
 their motion. The vale beneath feemed to dilate and ex- 
 pand itfelf ; the few parts of it, which were vifible, affoided 
 fuflicient ground to the imagination to conceive an affem- 
 blage of the moft entertaining objects. Ingleborough, whufc 
 head was wrapt in a cloud, flood the farthefl to the fouth in 
 the rank of mountains which faced us. 
 
 After breakfafl, we walked by the fide of the river to 
 the bridge. The channel is deep, the ftre'am rapid, among 
 rocks, the baaks on each fide covered with trees of various 
 
 foliage, 
 
ADDENDA. 243 
 
 foliage, which fei ve both as a defence and ornament. The 
 bridge is the moft lofty, ftrong, ancient, and (Iriking to the 
 eye of a ft ranger, of any I have yet ieen. It is built of 
 freeftone, has three arches, two large and one fmaller ; the 
 height from the fiirface of the water to the top of the centre 
 arch, except in a flood, is about twelve yards. The arches 
 are of the ribbed fort, which make the appearance the more 
 grotefqiie. There is no memorial of its foundation ; a ne- 
 gative argument of its vaft antiquity. We were indeed 
 amufed with one anecdote of its founder, which feerfkd to 
 be a remnant of the ancient mythology of the north, and 
 one inftance, among many, of eafily accounting for any- 
 thing that is marvellous. The country people have a tra- 
 dition, that it was built by the devil one night in windy- 
 weather ; he had but one apron full of ftones for the pur- 
 pofe, and unfortunately his apron-ftring breaking as he flew 
 with them over Catterton-fell, he loft many of them out, or 
 the bridge would have been much higher. 
 
 From the top of the bridge the profpeft down the river 
 is delightful ; the fides of the deep channel covered with 
 trees, are nearly parallel for half a ml!c, and the water one 
 continued furfacc, fave here and there where a pointed rock 
 lifts up its head above the ftream. We walked down by the 
 fide of the river about a mile, and as we proceeded were 
 continually prefented with new piofpeAs, while the foft 
 murmur^ of the river afl^orded a variety of different notes. 
 The vale of Lonfdale dilating by degrees, prefented us in 
 fucceffion with the different feats and villages that udorn 
 it: Whittington and Arkhulm to the Vv-eft; Tunftal, Melling, 
 Hornby, and its cattle, to the fouth ; and Leek to the ead. 
 The brown and blue mountains of Buinmore, and Lyth-fell, 
 terminated the view, which we could have wiftied had ex- 
 tended ftill farther to the fouth. While we were felcding 
 various objedls for our amufement, we fuddenly and infcnfibly 
 arrived at Overborough, the feat of Thomas Fenwick, Efq. 
 a modern houfe, and one of the largeft and moft elegant in 
 
 R a tke 
 
^44 ADDENDA. 
 
 the county of Lancafter, being fituated on a rifing ground, 
 though near the river Liuie, its different fronts connmand 
 all the delightful profpefts which the vale affords. During 
 «ur excurfion through the gardens and pleafure grounds 
 adjoining, we were prefented with views of a different 
 fort to any we had hitherto enjoyed. Sometimes we were 
 embowered with woods and lofiy trees — nothing of the ad- 
 jacent country to be feen, fave liere and there the blue peak 
 of inglcborough, or feme neighbouring mountain, till we 
 crofTed a broad villa, which fuddenly exhibited a new and 
 unexpeAed fcene of the winding vale beneath. A ftranger 
 in going from f.he hall to the gardens mull be ftruck with a 
 furprife bordering on terror, on viewing the profound and 
 gloomy glen by the fide of his way. The trees which guard 
 this fteep bank prevent the eye from feeing the river Leek, 
 ■which flows thro'igh a chafm amongft rocks at the bottom : 
 imagination is left to conceive the caufe of the detp and 
 folemn murmurs beneath. 
 
 Our ideas of the beauties of art and nature were mellowed 
 and refined by thofe of venerable antiquity. We were no^v 
 on clalTic ground ; Overborough being moit undoubtedly a 
 Roman ftation and garrifon, the Bremetonnca: of the emperor 
 Antoninus, as may be collefted from Tacitus, and other an- 
 cient writers. Biemeionacae is placed twenty Roni?in, or 
 eighteen Englilh miles north ol Coccium, or Ribchtllcr ; 
 and twenty-feven Roman, or twenty-four tnglifh miles fouth 
 of Galacum, which iome antiquaries conceive to be Apulby, 
 though others, with move probability, think it was Brough. 
 The diftances correipond, befides the additional argument of 
 their being nearly in the fame direction, whether wc conceive 
 Galacum to be Apulby or Brough. The Roman road iseafily 
 traced from Ribcliefter into Yorkfhire, running on the north 
 iide of Slaidburn, thrcuiih Cioffa Greta, then on the notik 
 fide of Tatham chapel, through Bentham, to Overborough*. 
 
 Afterwards 
 
 * A fuB account of the antiquities of Bremetonacae, or Overborougb' 
 iifiay be feci? in a quart* volume pubhflied by Richard RauthmeB, 
 
ADDENDA. ^4$ 
 
 Afterwards the Roman road goes through Cafterton, and 
 Middleton, and as fome think, by Borough-bridge, and Of- 
 ten, to Apulby. Others, and perhaps from better reafons, 
 are of opinion, the road went by Sedbergh, or Sedburg*, 
 over B'ewcafter, along Ravenftonedalc-ftieet, and through 
 Kirkoy-Stephen, to Brough, or Burgh. For Aatoninus'a 
 tenth Itinerary runs from G di ovtuta, or Lanchefter, in the 
 county of Duiham, by G<ilacum, Brcmetonac£C, Coccium, 
 Mancunium, or Mancheiler, to Glenovcnta, or Draton, in 
 the county of Salop. In various places by the fide of this 
 road are high artiiicial nKUuits of earth, which were without 
 doubt the ftation of centinels, to prevent any infurretlions, 
 or being fuiprifed by an enemy : tliey mav be now feen en* 
 tire at Burton in Lonfdale, Over' orough, Kirkby-Loufdalej 
 and Stdbergh. There ate feveral lateral ones, as at Lune- 
 bridge near Hornby, at Mflling, and Wennington. On our 
 return we had the bridge full in view moft of the way: its 
 antiquity and greatnefs made its prefence venerable and re- 
 fpcdlfd. About a furlong before we arrived at the bridge, 
 the town of Kiikby- Lonfdale appeared in a point of vievr 
 peculiarly pleafing. The high walls of a gentleman's gar- 
 den, which wr-re between us and the town, made it like a 
 fenced city in miniature ; the tower ftceple of the church 
 riling proudly eminent above the blue flated houfes, witk 
 which it was on every fide furrounded. 
 
 -f- We mounted our horfes at the bridge, about eleven 
 tj'c 'ock. having ordered them down thither in order to favc 
 kalf an hour in going up the town for them. We travelled 
 R 3 near 
 
 * Cbefff^i or Cafz-r^ is derived from Chf Latin word caflrum, or camp. 
 Street is derived from the Latin Vx'crd JJratum, or military road, or caujnvay* 
 Borough or Bu- gh, from the Creek word furgosy or ivatch tower, 
 
 f If the traveller is diftreffed for time, and has no inclination to take 
 a fecond view of the river Lune and its environs, he may order liis horfe 
 to be fent to Lowan-bridge, and walk through the park of Borough-hall, 
 -^vhere he may hs entertaiped with a variety of other prc4>e£l6. 
 
246 ADDENDA. 
 
 near the bottoms of the mountains, on (he fide of Lonfdale, 
 along the turnpike road, about- an hour, being in three 
 counties in that fhort interval, Weilmorland, Lancafliiie, and 
 Yorkfhire,' and amidft a variety of entertaining profpfCLS. 
 The number of fmall carts laden with coals, and each dvap-- 
 ged by one forry horfc, that we met, was fiirprifing to a 
 Ilranger. Many of the fmaller farmers, betwixt KiiJ;by- 
 Lonfdale and Kendal, earn their bread with carrying coals, 
 during moft part of the year, from the pits at Inplcton, 
 Blaek-Burton, or properly Biu-ton in Lonfdale, to Kci.dal, 
 and the neighbouring places, for fuel, and burning lime, in 
 order to manure their land. Thefc- beds of coal, we were 
 informed, are fix or feven feet in thicknt-fs. A fteam-englne 
 was erefted at Bhick- Burton, more commodioufly to work 
 their beft collieries. A furvey was lately fubicribed for to 
 be made, in order to have a canal from thefe pits to l.an- 
 cafter, >vhere coals might be exported ; as alfo to Kendal 
 and Settle^ which are towns much in want of fuel. 
 
 After we had got about fix miles from Kirkby- Lonfdale, 
 to a public houfe cal'ed Thornton cluirch-flile, we flopped to 
 procure a guide, candles, lanthorn, tinder-box, &c. for the 
 purpofe of feeing Yordas-cave, in the vale of Kingfdale, about 
 four miles off. By the advice of a friend, we took alfo with 
 us a baflcet of. provifions, which we found afterwards were 
 ol real fervice. When we had gone about a mile, we were 
 entertained with a fine cafcade, called T'hornton-force, near 
 fame f!:ne quarries, made by the river ilfuing out of Kingf- 
 dale. This caiaradt had fome featu'es different to any we 
 had yet feen among the lakes ; but which greatly conduced 
 to render it peculiarly engaging. Part of the river tumbled 
 with impetuofity from the top of a llratum of huge rocks, 
 perpendicularly about 20 yards : another part of it, in fearch 
 of a nearer and lefs violent courfe, had difcovered a fubter- 
 ranean pafFage, and gufhed out of the fide of the precipice ; 
 when they immediately again united their ftreams in a large, 
 round, deep, and black bafon at the bottom. From the- 
 
 margin' 
 
ADDENDA. 147 
 
 margfln of this pool the view may be taken to the greateft 
 advantage: the liigh rock on the fonth and oppofite fide, 
 about half a dozen yards higher than the cafcadc, and 
 mantled with Ihrubs and ivy, leaves nothing on that hand 
 for the imagination to fipply. If the archetype was not 
 in being it might be thought the fubterranean ft ream was 
 added to the piftnre, by the ingenuity of the artift, in order 
 to give a (inifliing ftroke to the beauty of the fcene. Tins 
 little river is worthy the company of the curious tourift for 
 about a mile along its courfe through a det-p grotefque glen, 
 fortified on each lide by fteep or impending high rocks. 
 A' out a mile higher we came to the head of the river, 
 which ifTues from one fountain called Keld's-htad *, to all 
 appearance more copi-iud than St. Winifred's- well, in Fh'nt- 
 ftiire ; though there is a broken, lerpeutinc, inegular chan- 
 nel, extending to the lop of the vale, down which a large 
 flrcain is poured from ttie uiouniains ir rainy weather. We 
 now found ourfelves in the midll of a fm;dl valley about tluee 
 miles long, and fomewhat more than half a mile btoad ; the 
 moil exttaordinary of any we had yet ft en: it was fur- 
 ro'uided on all fidew by high mountains, fome of them the 
 loftieit of atiy in England, — Whernhde to the fouth-eaft, and 
 Gi'agareth to the noith. There was no defcent from this 
 vale, except the deep chafm where we law the cafcade. It 
 feemed opened in fome diftant age, either by the gradual 
 cfTed of the wafliing of the river, or fome violent and ex- 
 traordinary flood, burfting open the rugged bairitr that pent 
 it up: the vale above has all the appearance of having been 
 once a lake, from the flatnefs of its furface, and its rich foil, 
 like a fediment fubfided on the bottom of a llagnant water. 
 We were informed, that the fubterranean cafcade beneath, 
 juft now ment'oned, has bat lately made its appearance, and 
 is every day more and more enlaiging. We were quite fe- 
 cludtd from the world, not an habitation for man in view, 
 
 R 4 but 
 
 * fCelff feems the ancient Saxon or Brltifh word for /J^Ww or foun:«w^ 
 and is often made iif^ ef in ^liat fenfe in thefe parts of Yorkfliire. 
 
248 ADDENDA. 
 
 but a lonely fhepherd's houfe, with a little wood, and a fevr 
 
 inclofures near it» called Breada-garth : it is on the north fide 
 of an high mountain, feldom vifited by man, and never by 
 the fun for near half a year. The ftiepherd, its folitary 
 inhabitant, with longing eyes looks for returning verduic, 
 when the fun begins to throw his benign lays on the fo- 
 litary abode. No monk or anchoret could defire a mor^ 
 retired iituation for his cell, to moralize on the vanity of 
 the World, or difappointed lover to bewail the inconftancy 
 oi his nymph. The foil feemed the deepeft and richeft, in 
 fome parts of this vale, of any we had ever obferved, and no 
 doubt is capable of great improvement. We could not hut 
 lament, that inllcad of peopling the wilds and defarts of 
 North America, our fellow fubjeds had not peopled the fer- 
 tile waftes of the north of England. We have fince indeed 
 been informed that a plan is in agitation for having it in- 
 clofed, when no doubt but it will fupport fome fcores of 
 additional families. While we were mufing on the manv 
 ■bad tffcds of peopling diftant countiies, and neglefting our 
 own, we arrived at the object of this exciirfion, Yordas-cave : 
 it is almcft at the top of the vale, on the north-weft fide of 
 it, under the high mountain Gragaieth We difcovered it 
 by fome fluep-folds at the moutli of a rugged gill or glen, 
 in which we fafcly pent up our horfes. In rainy feafons we 
 were told a copious ftream is poured down this gill, and a 
 cafcade falls over the very entrance into the cave, fo as to 
 prevent any further approach. We however were favoured 
 by the weather, and met with no obftacle of that nature to 
 •flop our ingrefs, but boldly entered a large aperture to the 
 left, into the fide of the mountain, like the great door of 
 fome cathedral. Having never been in a cave before, a 
 thouland ideas, which had been for many years dormant, 
 were excited in my imagination on my entrance into this 
 gloomy cavern. Several pafTages out of Ovid's Metamor- 
 phofis, Virgil, and other clafllcs, crowded into my mind 
 together. At one time I thought it like the den where 
 Cadmus met the huge ferpent. 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 Silva Vitus /iabat, nulla violata fecurl ; 
 Eft fpeuis in medio virgis ac inmene denfuSf 
 Eficiens humilem lapidum compagibits arcum ; 
 Uberibus facundus aquis. Hoc conditus an*r» 
 Martins anguis erat. 
 
 Ovid'b Met. B. 3. Fab. 
 
 Within this vale there rofe a ftiady wood 
 Of aged trees ; in its dark bofom itood 
 A bufhy thicket, pathlefs and unworn, 
 O'er run with brambles, and perplex'd with thorn ; 
 Amidft the brake a hollow den was found, 
 With rocks and (helving arches vaulted round ; 
 Deep in the dreary den, conceal'd from day. 
 Sacred to Mars, a mighty dragon lay. 
 
 Addifon, 
 
 Indeed there wanted nothing but an ancient wood, t« 
 make one believe that Ovid had taken from hence his lively 
 defcription. 
 
 As we advanced within this antre vaft, and the gloom and 
 horror incteafed, the den of Cacus, and the cave of Poliphe- 
 mus, came into my mind. I wanted nothing but a Sybil 
 condu6lrefs with a golden rod, to imagine myfelf like iEneas, 
 going into the infernal regions*. The roof was fo high, 
 and the bottom and fides fo dark, that with all the light we 
 could procure from our candles and torches, we were not 
 able to fee the dimenfions of this cavern. The light we had , 
 feemed only darknefs vifible, and would fervc a timid llraB- 
 ger, alone, and ignorant of his fituation. 
 
 To conceive things monftrous, and worfe 
 Than fables yet have felgnM, or fear conceiv'd, 
 Gorgons, and Hydras, and chimeras dire. 
 
 Milton. 
 The 
 
 * See FirgiCi Mneidf L. 3. L iii. and L. 6. 1> 205. and L. 6. 1. 23^4. 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 The height of this cave was fome where between a dozca 
 and twenty yards, the breadth about the fame dimenfiou 
 with the height, and the length at leaft fifty or fixty yards. 
 Some of the party, who had feen both, thought it much 
 more ftupendous and magnificent than the famous Peak's- 
 bole, in Derby fliire. 
 
 Having pafled a fmall brook, which one of the party called 
 the Stygian lake, we came to the weftern fide of the cave. 
 It is a folid perpendicular rock of black marble, embellilhed 
 with many rude £l<etches, and names of perfons now long 
 forgotten, the dates of fome being above two hundred years 
 old. After we had proceeded thirty or forty yards north- 
 ward, paft fome huge rocks that had fome time fallen from 
 the roof or fide, and arrived at a colonade of rude moffy pil- 
 lars, ftanding obliquely on their bafes, the road divided itltlf 
 into two parts, but not like that of ^neas, when defcending 
 into the realms of Pluto ; 
 
 Hac inter Elyfiim nobis ; at lava malorum 
 Exercet panas, et ad impia Tartarus mitt'it, 
 
 Virgil's Jineid, B, 6. /. 542. 
 
 *Tis here in different paths the way divides ; 
 The right to Pluto's golden palace guides : 
 The left to that unhappy region tends. 
 Which to the depth of Tartarus defcends ; 
 The feat of night profound, and pumfti'd fiends. 
 
 Noj they both had a divine tendency : on the right was the 
 bifhop's throne, and on the left the chapter-houfe, fo called 
 from their refemblance to thefe appendages of a cathedral. 
 Here we could not but lament the devaftation made in the 
 ornaments of thefe facred places; fome Goths, not long fince, 
 having defaced both throne and chapter-houfe of their pen- 
 dent petrified works, which had been fome ages in forming. 
 The little cafcades which fell in various places from the roof 
 
 and 
 
 } 
 
ADDENDA. 251 
 
 a»d fides with difFerent trilling notes, ferved to entertaia 
 the ear with their watery miific ; while the eye was bufy in 
 amufing itfelf with the curious reflettiuns which were made 
 by our lights from the Itreams and petrifaftions which ap- 
 peared all around us. We were told by our guide, what a 
 great efFeft the difcharge of a gun or pidol would have upon 
 our ears : but not being dtfirous to carry our exgerimental 
 philofophy fo far as to endanger or to give pain to the or- 
 gans of hearing, we were not difappointed in having no 
 apparatus for the purpofe. We followed a winding paffage 
 amongft high and grottfque pillars, being led by the noife 
 of a falling ftream, till we arrived at the ch;)ptor-houfe. 
 From the dome of this natural edifice fell a fine and clea? 
 cafcade into a bafon of tranfparent wa^er, wliich ferved in x 
 peculiar manner to embellifli the works of nature, in a ftile 
 fuperior to any thing we can have in thofe of art. We 
 were (liewn a low and narrow palTage on one of the flielves 
 of the rock near the chapter-houfe, which we were infornicd 
 led to a wider path, extending itfelf into the heart of the 
 mountain; but our curioiity was fatisfied without crawling 
 among the rocks befnieared with flime and mud. 
 
 If we had not been cautioned to beware of coming but too 
 fuddenly, left the quick tranfition from the dreary gloom of 
 the cavern into the glare of funfhine fliould injure the fenfe 
 of feeing, the curiofity for exploring every part in our re- 
 turn, now when our eyes were more opened, was fufficient tq 
 retard our fteps, and prevent a too hafty egrefs. While we 
 were regaling ourfelves with the provifions we had brought, 
 we enquired of our guide, if he could furnifti us with any- 
 curious anecdotes relative to this cave. After informing 
 us that it had been alternately the habitation of giants and 
 fairies, as the different mythology prevailed in the country j 
 he mentioned two circumftances we paid fome attention to. 
 About fifty or fixty years ago, a madman efcaped from hif 
 friends at or near Irigleton, and lived here a week in the win* 
 ter feafon, having had the precaution to take off a cheefe, 
 
 anil 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 and fomc other provifions, to his fubterranean hermitage. A» 
 there was fnow on the ground, he had the cunning of Cacus, 
 (fee Fir^il's JEneid, L. 8. 1. 209) to pull the heels off his 
 Ihoes, and fet them on inverted at the toes, to prevent being 
 traced : an inftance, among many others, of a madman's 
 reafoning juiUy on fome detached part of an abfurd plan, or 
 hypothefis. Since that time, he told us, a poor woman big 
 with child, travelling alone up this inhofpitable vale, to that 
 •f Dent, was taken in labour, and found dead in this cave. 
 
 We now proceeded to examine the pits and chafms appa- 
 rently caufed by the water after it has run through the cave : 
 we afcended the hill a little higher to view the gill above 
 the cave : a ftrcam of water flowed down it, which entering 
 an aperture in the rock, we could fee defcend from fteep to 
 fteep a confiderable way. We made no doubt hut it was the 
 fame flream vfhich afterwards falls down through the roof 
 of the chapter-houfe. Here was alfo a quarry of black 
 marble, of which elegant monuments, chimneys, flabs, and 
 other pieces of furniture, are made by a Mr. Tomlinfon, at 
 Burton in Lonfdale ; when poliflied, this marble appears to 
 be made up of entrochi, and various parts of teftaceous and 
 pifcofous reliques. 
 
 We were perfuaded to climb up to the top of the bafe of 
 Gragareth, the mountain in whofe fide Yordas is fituated, in 
 order to fee Gingling-cave. It is on the edge of the flat bafe 
 of the mountain, on a green plain by the fide of a brook, 
 looking down into the vale, Ingleborough appearing a little 
 to the left or north-eaft of Breada-garth, which was almoft op- 
 pofite. Tiiis natural curiofity is a round aperture; narrovr 
 at the top, but moft probably dilating in its dimenfions to a 
 profound extent. The fl;one8 vse threw in made an hollovr 
 gingling noife for a confiderable time. At intervals we could 
 hear nothing of their defcent, then again we heard them re- 
 found in deeper keys, till they were either immetfed in fome 
 ieep pool ©r were ariircd at too great a diflance to be heard . 
 
 i9t 
 
ADDENDA. -253 
 
 f)r there feemed a variety of different paflages for their 
 defcent, fome being much fooner intercepted in their career 
 than others. Two dogs that were with us, and a fmall horfc 
 brought up by one of the party, feemed violently agitated, 
 and under fearful trepidations, under horrors refembling thofc 
 we are told the animal creation are feized with, preceding 
 or daring an earthquake. Though our reafon convinced us 
 of the impoffibility of the ground falling in beneath us, wc 
 Gould not but feel many apprehenfions, accompanied with 
 fenfations liitherto unknown. We could not learn that any 
 fwain had ever been adventrous enough to be let down ia 
 ropes into this vaft hiatu8, to explore thofe unfeen regions, 
 cither from a principle of curiofity, or to fearch for hiddea 
 mines. We were informed of fome other openings into thi$ 
 mountain of a like kind with Gingling-cave, but being at a 
 dtftance and of an inferior nature, we returned to Yordas for 
 our horfes, which we had pent up in. the (heep-folds; and 
 proceeding down the vale, we crofled over it at the bottom 
 to Twifleton, and foon arived at Ingleton. 
 
 * After we had regaled and refted ourfelves comfortably at 
 the Bay-horfe, we took an evening walk about a mile above 
 the town, to the flate quarries by the fide of the river Weafe, 
 or Greta, which comes down out of Chapel in the dale, and 
 joins the Kingfdale river at Ingleton. Here we had objefts 
 both of art and nature to amufe ourielves with ; on one hand 
 was a precipice ten or twelve yards perpendicular, made by 
 the labour of man, being a quarry of fine large blue flats, 
 
 affording 
 
 * If the tourift would proceed immediately to Chapel in the dale, he 
 may go either belpw Breada-garth to Twifleton, and then turn up the vale 
 to Chapel in the dale; or, which is a nearer road, he may crofs Kingfdale 
 above Breada-garth and afcend the mountain, purfuing a rough and not 
 well defined road, taking care to keep on the fouth-wefb fide of a fwamp, 
 near an hiU, or heap of ftones, called an hurder, on the bafe of Whernfide, 
 and then to turn round the weft corner of the mountain: afterwards 
 he muft turn his courfe eaiterly along the bafe ot the mountain till he 
 comes to fome lanes, any of which will lead him by fome houfes down 
 t* the chapel in the middle of the vale between Whernfide and In^ebeurgb 
 
*54 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 affording an ufeful and ornamental cover for the lioufes in 
 the adjoining parts of York(hire, Lancafhire, and Weftmor- 
 land: on the other hand was the river rolling down from rock 
 to rock in a narrow deep chafm, where there was no room 
 for human foot to tread between the ftream and the rugged, 
 high, fteep rocks on each fide. Several pieces of the flate 
 were befpangled with yellow marcafites of a cubic form, and 
 different fizes, others were gilded over with the various fo- 
 liages of ferns, pines, oaks, and other vegetables. This bed 
 of flate runs nearly from fouth to north by this place and the 
 quarry near Thornton-fon e. Its length may be traced two 
 or three: miles, though but 200 or 300 yards in breadth, and 
 indeed of good flate but a few yards broad : the plain of 
 the ftratum is nearly perpendicular to the horizon, and may 
 afford matter of fpeculation to the natural philofopher, as to 
 its caufe, whether from fome melted and liquid matter being 
 forced up there at the deluge, or fome fubfequent volcano ; 
 as it is limeftone rock on both the eaft and weft fide of it, 
 and apparently fevered afunder by the weight of the weftern 
 ftratum feparating from the above by its inclination to the 
 Tale beneath. We crolFed the river by means of the broken 
 fragments of rocks, which afforded us their rugged backs 
 above the furface of the water to tread on. Here we met 
 with a fine field for our entertainment as botanills. There 
 was the lady's flipper^ the fly orchis, rarely to be met with 
 clfewhere, and many other fcarce and curious plants. We 
 crofTed over to take a fecond view of Thornton-force, on the 
 fouth fide of the Kingfdale river, and followed its murmuring 
 flream down a deep glen, fortified with high precipices on 
 each fide, to Ingleton. Nor did we think outfelves ill repaid 
 for all the difficulties we had to encounter in our road a- 
 mongft rocks and ftream?, as fomething new and amufing 
 prefented itfelf almoft every ftep we took. 
 
 Ingleton is a pretty village, pleafantly fituated on a natural 
 mount, yet at the bottom of a vale, near the conflux of two 
 rivers, over whick are thrown tw© kandfome arches. If the 
 
 ftreanae 
 
ADDENDA. 255 
 
 ftreams are Ibmetimes fmall, the huge ftones and fragment* 
 of rocks, which are rolled down the beds of thefe rivers, 
 •will ferve to fhew that at other times they are remarkably- 
 full and impetuous. * The church-yard, in the middle of 
 which ftands a neat facred edifice, commands a fine view of 
 the vale of Loiifdale, almofl. as far as Lancafter. The mur- 
 murs of the ft reams below footh the ear, while the eye is 
 felt Aing a variety of objedls for its entertainment. On the 
 back-ground are the lofty mountains of Gragareth, Whern- 
 fide, and Ingleborough, the fummits of which, when they 
 are not enveloped in the clouds, can fcarcely be feen for their 
 hig-h intervening bafes. When the top of Ingleborough is 
 covered with a thick white mift, or, as the country people 
 fay, when he puts on his night-cap, there are often ftrong 
 gulls, called helm winds, blowing from thence to that part 
 of the country which adjoins to its bafe. The like obferva- 
 tion is made, by the mariners, of the table land at the Cape, 
 of Good Hope, on the coatt of Africa. They are called 
 helm winds from their blowing from the cloud or helmet that 
 covers the head of the mountains. Amongft other enter- 
 tainments, the civil ufage, and good accommodations we met 
 with at our inn, contributed not a little to heighten the a- 
 mufements and pleafures of the day f . 
 
 Early next morning we fet off for Ingleton-fells, or Chapel 
 in the dale, along the turnpike road leading to Allcrigg and 
 
 Richmond, 
 
 * The editor of Barnaby's Journal has this diftich on Ingleton. 
 
 Pirgus inefi fam, fanum fub acumne colUs\ 
 Col'.is ab elatis aclus & au8lu% aqutSi, 
 
 The poor man's box is in the temple fet; 
 Church under hilJ, and hill by waters beat. 
 
 •f- The writer of this 'four to the caues was hiformed of a deep and cu- 
 lious chafrn on the weftern extremity of the bafe of Ingleborough, above 
 the village of Caldecoates, about a mile or two from Ingleton ; but as he 
 did not fee it himfelf, he has no; attempted a defcription of it fronj 
 ti-adition. 
 
ft56 ADDENDA. 
 
 Richmond. We had not travelled much above a mile before 
 we came into the dale, whidi is about three quarters of a 
 mile broad. For near three miles it had fomething in its 
 appearance very ftriking to the naturalifl : there were high 
 precipices of limeftone rock on each fide ; and the interme- 
 diate vale, to a lively imagination, would feem once to have 
 been of the fame height, but funk down by the breaking of 
 pillars, which had fupported the roof of an enormous vault. 
 About three miles from Ingleton, is the head of the river 
 Weafe, or Greta, on the left hand fide of the road, only a few- 
 yards diflant from it. It gufhes out of feveral fountains at 
 •nee, all within twenty or thirty yards of each other; having 
 run about two miles underground, though making its appear- 
 ance in two or three places within that diftance. When there 
 are floods it runs alio above ground, though not in all places, 
 except the rains are extraordinary great. This is the fubter- 
 ranean river mentioned by Dr. Goldfmith in his entertaining 
 Natural Hijiory, Vol. I. by the name of Greatah. 
 
 When we had gone about a mile farther, being four miles 
 from Ingleton, we turned off the turnpike road to fomc 
 houfes near the chapel, where we left our horfes. At firft 
 we imagined we had here met with an exception to the 
 maxim of poet Butler, the author of Hudibras, viz. 
 
 A jefuit never took in hand 
 
 To plant a church in barren land. 
 
 For the chapelry produceth neither wheat, oats, barley, peas, 
 or any other fort of grain ; nor apples, pears, plumbs, cher- 
 ries, or any kind of friiit : a ripe goofe- berry was a natural 
 tiiriofity in the fummer feafon, in moil: parts of the diftria ; 
 cren their potatoes they have from other places. Yet though 
 they were deftitute of thefe produdions, they were bleffed 
 with others as valuable, by way of compenfation. They a- 
 bound with excellent hay ground and paftures, and were rich 
 in large flocks, and kerds •f cattle, which enabled them to 
 
 purchafe 
 
ADDENDA. 257 
 
 purchafe every convenlt ncy of life. Having little intercourfe 
 with the luxurious, vicious, and defigning part of mankind, 
 they were temperate, fubftantial, fincere, and hofpitable. 
 We found an intelhgent, agreeable, and entertaining compa- 
 nion and guide in the curate, who ferved them aUo as 
 fchool-mafter : as Dr. Goldfmith obferves on a like occafion, 
 
 A man he is to all the country dear, 
 And paffing rich with thirty pounds a year. 
 
 The firft curiofity we were condudled to was Hurtlepot, 
 about eighty yards above the chapel*. It is a round, deep 
 hole, between thirty and forty yards diameter, furrounded. 
 with rocks aimed on all fides, between thirty and forty feet 
 perpendicular above a deep black water, in a fubterranean ca- 
 vity at its bottom. All round the top of this horrid place 
 are trees, which grow ftcure fiom the axe: their branches 
 almoft meet in the centre, and fpread a gloom over a chafm, 
 dreadful enough of itfelf without being heightened with any 
 additional appendages: it was indeed oqe of the moft difui^l 
 profpefts we had yet been prefented with. Almoll every 
 fenfe was aflFcfled in fuch an uncommon manner, as to excite 
 ideas of a nature truly horribly fublime. When ever we 
 threw in a pebble, or (poke a word, our ears were aflailed with, 
 a difmal hollow found ; our noftrils were aficcted with an 
 uncommon complication of (Irong fmells, from the ramps and 
 other weeds that grew plentifully about its fides, and the 
 rank vapours that cxiialed from the black abyfs beneath. 
 The defcent of ^neas into the infernal regions camt again 
 frefh into my imaginaiion, and the following palTage out of 
 Virgil obtruded itfelf on my memory. 
 
 S Spelunca 
 
 * About one hundred yards beJow the chaptl, there are the ruins of" an 
 •Id cave called Saiidpot : the top has appi.rently fo.wethv.e fallen ;n and 
 has covered the bottom with its rums. A large ciifcade is diOincJdy 
 heard through this rubbifli. If a deictnt was opened, no doubt iiut a 
 fubterranean paffagc would be difcovered leading either to the caves 
 above the chapel, or, more probably to Douk-cave, oi'. the bafe of Ingle- 
 borough, it not to both. 
 
258 ADDENDA. 
 
 Spelunea alta fuity vaftoque imman'ts htatu^ 
 Scrupea, tuta lacu nigro nemorumque teneiris f 
 ^am fuper baud ullce poterant impune volantet 
 Tender e iter pennis : talis fipe ha'itus air is 
 Faucibus ejfundens fupera ad co?iTexa ferelat ; 
 Unde locum Gaaii dixerunt nomine Aniernum. 
 
 ^neid, -5. 6. /. 23f> 
 
 Deep was the cave ; and downwards as it went 
 
 From the wide mouth, a rocky, rough defcent; 
 
 And here th' acctfs a gloomy grove defends; 
 
 And there th' unnavigahle lake extends ; 
 
 O'er whofe unhappy waters, void of light. 
 
 No bird prefumes to fteer his airy flight : 
 
 From hence the Grecian bards their legends make, 
 
 And give the name Avernus to the lake. Dry 'en» 
 
 After viewing for fome time with horror and aftonifhment 
 its dreadful alpe£t from the top, we were emboldened to de- 
 fcend, by a fteep and flippery paffage, to the margin of this 
 Avernian lake. What its depth is we could not learn ; but 
 from the length of time the finking ftones we threw in con- 
 tinued to lend up bubbles fiom the black abyfs, we concluded 
 it to be very profound. How far it extended under the f'Uge 
 pendant rocks we could get no information, a fuhterraneaa 
 embarkation having never yet been fitted out for difcoveries. 
 Iq great floods we were told this pot runs over ; fome traces 
 of it then remained on the grafs. While we flood at the 
 bottom; the awful filence was broken every three or four fe- 
 conds, by drops of water falling into the lake from the rocks 
 above, in different folemn keys. The futi fhining on the fur- 
 face of the water, illuminated the bottom of the fuper-in- 
 cumbent rocks, only a few feet above ; which, being viewed 
 by refle£lion in the lake, caufed a curious deception, fcarcc 
 any where to be met with : thty appealed at the like diflance 
 below its furface, in form of a rugged bottom. But alas! 
 iiow fatal would be the confequence, if any adventurer (hould 
 
 attempt 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 attempt to wade acrofs the abyfs on this (hadow of a foun- 
 dation. While we were ftanding on the margin of this fub- 
 terranean lake, we were fuddenly aftonifhed with a mod un- 
 common noife on the furface of the water under the pendant 
 rocks. It is called by the country people Hurtlepot-boggart» 
 and fometimes the Fairy-churn, as a churn it refembles. It 
 is no doubt fiightful to them, and would have been fo to us, 
 if we had not been apprized of the caufe. We found it was 
 cflFet^ed by the glutting of the furface of .the water againft 
 the bottom of fome rocks, or paffages worn into them to a 
 eonfiderable diftance, when it was defcending after rain, as 
 then happened to be the cafe. This deep is not without its 
 inhabitants; large black trouts arc frequently caught in it by 
 the neighbouring people. Botaniils find here fome rare and 
 •urious plants. 
 
 On our return from the margin of this Avernian lake, we 
 found the obfervation of the poet Virgil very applicubie. 
 
 FacU'is dejctnjus Averni : 
 
 Nodes atque dies patet uln janua Ditis ; 
 
 Sed revocare gradum, fuperafque evadere ad auras. 
 
 Hoc opus, hie labor tjis ^neid, B. 9. /. 126. 
 
 The gates of hell are open night and day ; 
 
 Smooth the defcent, and eafy is the way : 
 
 But to return, and view the cheaiful flcies ; 
 
 In this the taflc and mighty labour lies. Dryden. 
 
 When we arrived in the fuperior regions, we purfued out 
 journey about a hundred and fifty yards farther up a very- 
 narrow grotefque glen, over a natural bridge of limeltone, 
 above ten yards thick, having the Aibterranean river Weafe, 
 or Greta, underneath. When we got to the head of this gill, 
 we were ftopt by a deep chafm called Glnglepot, at the bottom 
 of a precipice, it is of an oblong and narrow form; an en- 
 terprizing perfon, with a fteady head, and adive heels, re- 
 gardlefs of the fatal confequences from a falfe Hep, might 
 
 S 2 leap 
 
26o 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 leap over it. It is filled with fmooth pebbles at the bottom, 
 except at the fouth corner, where there is deep water, which 
 in floods fwellb up to the top, and ilTues out in a vaft torrent. 
 The length of this chafm is about ten yards, and the per- 
 pendicular deprh, at the north corner, about twenty yards. 
 In our way from Hurtlepor, we could not help remarking the 
 ruins of two fmall artificial mounts of earth, which we were 
 told formerly ferved as butt?, when the ii habitants exercifed 
 themfelves in the ancient military accomplifhmcnt of aicheiy. 
 The natura'ift muil alfo be entertained with the fuccefsful 
 efforts that had been made by the roots of fome old alhes, to 
 get acrofs the dry and broad bed of rocks to a rich bed of 
 fandy foil, in order to fupport their aged parents, for ever 
 doomed to dwell on the ftcep fide of a ban en and rugged cliff. 
 
 Returning back a little way from Ginglepot in order to find 
 a paffage out of tliis dreary glen, we proceeded about an hun- 
 dred and twenty yards higher, yvhen we came to Weathercoat- 
 cave or cove*, the moll furprifing natural curiofity of the 
 kind in the iflatid of Great Britain. It is a ftupendous fub- 
 terranean cataraft in a huge cave, the top of which is on the 
 fame level with the adjoining lands. On our approach to its 
 brink, our ears and eyes were equally afloniflied with the 
 fwblime and terrible. The margin was furrounded with trees 
 and fhrubs, the foliage of which was of various fliapes and 
 colours, which had an excellent eflFe£t, both in guarding and 
 ornamenting the fteep and rugged precipices on every fide. 
 Where the eye could penetrate through the leaves and 
 branches, there was room for the imagination to conceive this 
 
 cavern 
 
 * The word ca-ve is pronounced by the countfy people cove, or coave. 
 This hint may be of fervice to a ftranger in his er.quiries. This cave is 
 not above loo yards from the turnpilse road from Lancafter to Richmond: 
 it is on the left hand fide of the twenty fecond mile flone irom Lancafler, 
 from whence the cafcade may be diftindlly heard. The delicate and 
 timid may neither be afraid of their perfons or cSoaths, if they have no 
 mind to defcend. They may ftand fafe on the margin of either Hui tlepot, 
 Ginglepot, or Weathercoat-cave. They will there fee enough to alttfnifll 
 them, and imagination will fupply Uie reft. 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 261 
 
 cavern more dreadful and horrible, if poflible, than it was in 
 reality. This cave is of a lozenge form, and divided into 
 two by a rugged and grotefque arch of limeftone rock: the 
 whole length from fouth to north is about fixty yards, and 
 the breadth about half its length. At the fouth end is the 
 entrance down into the little cave ; on the right of which is 
 a fubterranean palTage pnder the rocks, and a petrifying well: 
 a Itranger cannot but take notice of a natural feat and table, 
 in a corner ot this grotefque room, wrll fulted for a poet or 
 philofopher; here he may be fecluded from the buftle of the 
 world, though not from nolle ; the uniform roaring however 
 of the cafcade will exclude from the ear every other found, 
 and his retirement will conceal him from every objedl that 
 might divert the eye Having defcended with caution from 
 rock, to rock, we paffcd under the arch, and came into the 
 gi'eat cave, where we ftood fume time in filent aftonifhment 
 to view the amazing cafcade. The perpendicular height of 
 the north corner of tliis cave, was found by an exa6t admea- 
 fuiement to be thirty-fix yards: near eleven yards from the 
 top iffues a torrent out of an hole in the rock, about the 
 dinitniions of a large door in a church, conveying ufually as 
 much water as the new river at London. It ruflies forwards 
 witii a curvature wliich fhews, that it has had a fteep defcent 
 before it appears in open day ; and tumbles precipitate twenty 
 five yards perpendicular down on the rocks at the bottom, 
 with a noife that amazes the moft intrepid ear. The water 
 fuiks as it falls amongil the rocks and pebbles, running by a 
 fu bterraneau paffage about a mile, where it appears again by 
 the lide of the turnpike road, vifiting in its wav the other 
 caverns of Ginglepot and Hurtlepot. The cave is filled with 
 the fpray that arifes from the water dafhing againft the bot- 
 tom, and the fun happening to fhine very bright, we had a 
 fmall vivid rainbow within a few yards of us, for colour, fize, 
 and fituation, perhaps no where elfe to be equalled. An 
 huge rock that had fometime been rolled down by the im- 
 peiuofity of the ftream, and was fufpended between us and 
 the.top of the cafcade, like the coffin of Mahomet, at Medina, 
 S3 had 
 
26q. addenda. 
 
 had an excellent efFeft in the fcene. Though the ftrcam 
 had polifhed the furfaces of the pebbles on which it fell at 
 the bottom by rolling them againft each others yet its whole 
 force was not able to drive from its native place the long 
 black mofs that firmly adhered to the large immoveable rocks. 
 We were tempted to defcend into a dark chamber at the 
 very bottom of the cave, covered over with a ceiling of rock 
 above thirty yards thick, and from thence behind the cafcade, 
 at the expence of having our cloaths a little wtt and dirtied, 
 when the noife became tremendous, and the idea for per- 
 fonal fdfety awful and alarming, as the rocks on which we 
 flood And every one about us feemed to fhake with the vaft. 
 concuffion. We were informed, that in a great drought the 
 divergency of the ftreanri is fo imall, that we might with 
 ■fafety go quite rout.d the cafcade. At the bottom we were 
 fhewn a crevice where we might defcend to the fubterranean 
 channel, wliicii vcouid lead us to Ginglepot, and perhaps much 
 further ; we were alfo fhewn above, a fhallow paffage between 
 the Ih-aia of rocks, along which we might crawl to the ori- 
 fice out of which the cafcade iffued, where it was high enough 
 to walk eredt, and where vi-e might have the honour of ma- 
 king the firit expedition for difcoverles ; no creature having 
 yet proceeded in that paffage out of fight of day -light : but 
 as we were apprehenfive the pleafure would not be compen- 
 fated by the dangers and difficulties to be encountered in our 
 progrefs, we did not atempt to explore thefe new regions*. 
 
 After 
 
 * The writer of this Tour, in company with tlie owner of the cave 
 smd feme others, has fince been in tlie paffage out of which the catcade 
 iffues ; but not able to tell how far it extends, as it was high and wide 
 eix)ugh to admit paflJengers much farther tiian they were. The owner 
 of the cave and others have been in the paflagc- beneath, half way to 
 Ginglepot : they have no doubt but it leads thither, they did not get fo 
 far, owing to the water deepening, more than tlie height leflening. Ano- 
 ther fubterranean river, that from Gatekirk above, meets this cafcade 
 direftly underneath it, along whicli there is a paffage and which the 
 above party in fome meafure through miftake explored, by miffing their 
 way in their return, by getting far beyond the cafcade before they were 
 •onvinced •f their error, by the noife of Xl\e cafcade gradually decreafing. 
 
ADDENDA. 263 
 
 After a little rain another cafcade fimilar to the former falls 
 nearly from the fame height, on the weft fide of the cave, 
 appearing and di'appearing, wiih great variety, amongft the 
 rockb, as if it feil down the cliimney of a ruinous building, 
 whe>e fcvtral holes were made into it in the gable-end. If 
 the rains ilill increafe, a large ftream fets in out of the loom 
 by the fide o^ the little cave ; and in great floods a vaft river 
 fall into the g-eat cave, down the precipice on the eaftern 
 f) ^ ■. Nothing can be more grorefque and terrible than to 
 view this cave wlien about half full of water. A variety of 
 cafcades iifue from crannies in every quarter : fome as fmall 
 at- a tap In an lio^fhead, and others as copious as rivers, all 
 p 1 iiig «vi'h impi-tuofity into this deep and rugged bafon. 
 With their united ftreairis they are fometimes able to fill the 
 ■\v;t lie capaci'.y of the cavern, and make it overflow; the 
 fuLtcrranean crannies and palTages of this leaky veflTel not 
 b .ig able, w ith the encreafcd piefl"uie fiom above, to carry 
 oil the water as faft as it is poured in ; but this happens 
 •nly about fix or fcven times in twenty years*. 
 
 Having fatisfied our curiofity in viewing this wonder of 
 «?.ture, and moialized on the infignificancy of all human 
 atteaipts in producing any thing like it, we afctiidcd into 
 our na'ive regions, and proceeded to another, called Douk* 
 cove, about a mile fouth, on the other fide of the turnpike 
 road, towards the foot of Ingleborough, whofe height now 
 appeared to great advantage from the nature of our own 
 elevated fituation. Douk-cove is fomething fimilar to that 
 ol Weatheicoate, but not heightened fo much with the vail 
 and terrible : the cavity indeed is longer and wider, but not 
 deeper ; the rocks not fo liigh and Iteep, except on the eaU 
 fide, where the hawks and other birds build their nefts, not 
 - S 4 dreading 
 
 * The owner of the cave fays that it run ever in the back end of the 
 year 1757, before Chriltmas in 1759, in 1771 two or three times, and 
 all in the back end of the year, and in February 1782, and November 
 1783. But during this interval, the water has been feveral times near 
 the top of the cave. Before it runs over a large ftream jfliies out of the 
 Well before the Weatliercoate-houfe. 
 
 Iliilili;;;. 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 dreading the approach of human foot. They both feem 
 once to have been covered over, like Yordas, but the roofs to 
 have fallen in by fome inundation, or other accident. The 
 ftream of this cafcade does not fall above five or fix yards, 
 and is not fo large as the fornr\er ; though, like it, is im- 
 mediately abforbed amongfl the rocks beneath. The fub- 
 terranean paffage out of which it iffued is very curious. By 
 the help of a ladder we afcended, and went along it to fome 
 ance, by means of candlts : when we had gone about forty 
 or fifty yards, we came to a chafm twelve or fifteen yards in 
 depth from the furface, through which we could fee broad 
 day. How far we could have proceeded, we know not ; we 
 returned, after we had been about a hundred yards. This 
 would be looked on as a great curiofity in many countries; 
 but after thole we had feen, our wonder was not eafily ex- 
 cited. No doubt but another fubterranean paffage might 
 be difcovered, by ridding away the rubbiih at the bottom of 
 the cave, where the water finks. 
 
 We were now on the bafe on which Ingleborough * 
 flands, and greatly elevated above all the wdtern country. 
 Our diltance from the bottom, where the fteep afcent of 
 this high mountain begins, was about a mile in a dirtft 
 horizontal line, over rocks and pits. The finenefs and 
 clearnefs however of the day induced us to afcend its fides 
 and gain its fummit : though we had many a weary and 
 llippery ftep, we thought ourfelves amply repaid when we 
 got to the top, with the amufement we received in viewing 
 the feveral extenfive and diverfitied profpefts, and in making 
 our obfervations, as botanifts and natural hiilorians, on its 
 produftions and contents. All the country betwixt us and 
 the fea, to the extent of forty, fifty, and fixty miles from 
 
 the 
 
 * The word Itiglebcrough feems to be derived from the Saxon word 
 ingL\ which fignifies a lkj->te:i fire; and bcrouzh, or burgi, which comes 
 originally from the Greek word furgos, and fignifies a wa/fi6 ioiver; the 
 libisis ^ and /> being often changed into each other : for here a beacon 
 is erti^^ed, cn which a fire ufed to be made as a fignal of alarm in times 
 •f rtbfcllions or invafions. 
 
ADDENDA. 265 
 
 the north-wefl, by the weft to the fouthrweft, lay ftretchcd 
 out beneath us, like a large map, with the roada, rivers, vil- 
 lages, towns, feats, hills and vales, capes and bays, in fuc- 
 celTion. Elevation is a great leveller ; all the hills and little 
 mountains in the country before us, appeared iunk in our 
 eyes, and in the fame plain with the adjacent meadows. To 
 the north-weft, the profpeft was terminated at the diftancc 
 of forty or fifty miles, by a chain of rugged mountains in 
 Wcftmorlandy Lancafhire, and Cumberland, which appeared 
 as bairiers againft the fury of the ocean. To the weft, the 
 Irifli fea extends as far as the eye can penetrate, except 
 •where the uniformity of the watery profped is interrupted 
 by the Ifles of Man and Angleiey. The blue mountains in 
 Wales terminated our further progrefs, after we had traced 
 out the winding of the coaft all the way from Lancafter, by 
 Prefton, and Liverpool. A curious deceptio vijus prefented 
 itfelf : all the vales between us and the fea appeared lower 
 than its furface ; owing to the (ky and earth both apparently 
 tending to a line drawn from the eye parallel to the horizon, 
 where they at laft appeared to meet. To the eaft and north, 
 the profpeft was foon terminated by a number of black, ir- 
 regular, chaotic mountains, which by their indentations and 
 winding fummlts, gave us reafon to believe they contained 
 habitable vales between them. Their fides afford an hardy 
 and wholefome pafture for fheep, and their bovpels contain 
 rich mines of lead, fome of which are wrought with great 
 advantage to the proprietors. 
 
 The immenfe bafe on which Ingleborough ftands is between 
 twenty and thirty miles in circumference : the rife is in fomc 
 places even and gradual ; in others, as to the north and weft, 
 it is rugged and almoft perpendicular. Tiie top is plnin and 
 horizontal, being almoft a mile round, having the ruins of 
 an old wall about it, from which fome ingenious antiquaries 
 endeavour to prove that it has once been a Roman ftation, 
 and place of great defence. Of late years it has never been 
 frequented by any, except fhepherds, and the curious in 
 
 profpedls, 
 
266 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 profpefts, and the neighbouring country people, who rc» 
 forted to the horfe races, which were formeily annually held 
 on its top. On the weltern edge there are the remains of 
 what the country people call the beacon, fome three or four 
 yards high, afcetided by a flight of fteps. The ruins of a 
 little watch-houfe is alfo adjoining : no doubt in time of 
 wars, infurreftions, and tumults, and particularly during tlic 
 incurfions of the Scots, a fire was made on this beacon, to give 
 the alarm to the country round about. Tiie foil on the top 
 is fo dry and barren that it affords little grafs, the lock 
 being barely covered with earth : a fpongy mofs is all the 
 Tegetablc that thrives in this lofty region. The Hones on 
 the fummit, and for a great way down, are of the fandy 
 gritty fort, with freeftone Hate amongft them : upon the 
 bafe, the rocks are all limeftone, to an enormous depth. 
 Near the top indeed, on the eait fide, is a ftratum of lime- 
 ftone, like the Derbyfliire marble, full of entrochi. Scv. ral 
 fprings have their origin near the fummit, particularly one 
 ©n the north fide, of pure and well-tafted water, called Fair- 
 weather-fyke, which runs down by the fide of a fheep-fencc 
 wall into a chafm called Meir-gill. All the other fprings, 
 as well as this, when they come to the limeftone bafe, are 
 fwallowed up, and after running periiaps a mile underground, 
 make their appearance once again in the furrounding vales, 
 and then wind in various courfes to the Lune or the Ribble, 
 which empty themfelves into the Irifh fea. 
 
 A naturalifl cannot but obferve a number of conical holes, 
 with their vertexes downwards, not only all over the bafe of 
 Ingleborough, but particularly a row near the fummit. They 
 are from two to four or five yards diameter, and from two 
 to three or four yards deep, except Barefoor-wives-hole, 
 hereafter mentioned, which is much larger. They refemble 
 thofe pits about mount JEtna, Vefuvius, and the various 
 parts of Sicily and Calabria, as defcribed by Hamilton, and 
 other writers. What may have been the caufe of them, ig 
 left for the determination of the iageniou& naturalilt. 
 
 The 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 167 
 
 The other ftoncs and foffils on and about Ingleborough, arc 
 black and brown marbles, abounding with white lea (hells, 
 fparks of fpar, and flakes of entiochi : fpars of various forts, 
 the ftaladical and icicle in the caves, flates pale and brown, 
 and near Ingleton blue ; black (hiver, tripoli or rotten-ftone 
 blood-ftone, and lead ore. The foil' on the bafe and fides of 
 Ingleborough (where there is any) is chiefly peatmofs, whick 
 the country people get up and burn for fuel : the cover is 
 in general ling or heath : other vegetables are ferns of va- 
 rious kinds ; reindeer mofs, and various other mofles ; hele- 
 borines, white and red ; the different forts of feedums; crane's 
 bills, fcurvy-grafs, bird's eyes, various liver-worts, orchifes, 
 rofe-wort, lilly of the valley, mountain columbines ; the hur- 
 tle-berrv or bill-berry, knout-berry, cran-berry, cloud-berry, 
 and cow-betry. The (hrubs are mountain-vine, bird-cherry, 
 mountain-afh, gelder-rofe, burntt-rofc, (lone-bramble, red 
 and black currants. In the Foal-foot vi^hich is in the north- 
 weft corner of this mountain, is found the viviparous-grafs, 
 and the rofe-of-the-root, which has a yellow flower, and is 
 like houfe-leek. Near Ingleton, as was before obferved, is 
 the lady's flipper, and fly orchis. The . chief animals found 
 on and about Ingleborough, are groufe, the ring-oufle, and 
 wheat-ear : the fox, mountain-cat, wild-cat, pole-cat, weaflc, 
 ftoat, badger, and martin. 
 
 The perpendicular height of this mountain above the level 
 of the fea is 3987 feet, as taken by a neighbouring country 
 gentleman. The country people ate all perfuaded that 
 Whernfide on the north fide of the vale of Chapel in the dale 
 is higher than Ingleborough, from fnow continuing longer 
 on its top, and other circumftances. The elevation appears 
 fo nearly the fame to the eye, that nothing but an exad 
 admeafurement can determine this honour for thefe rival, 
 foaring candidates. The top of Ingleborough is the firft land 
 however that failors defcry in their voyage from Dublin to 
 Lancafter, though above thirty miles from the fea, which 
 IhewB the great height of this mountain. Though not aa 
 
 argumeiit 
 
268 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 argument for its being higher than Whernfidc, as it is not 
 fo well lituated to be feen from the Irifli fea. 
 
 In our return we vifitcd the long, deep, and dreadful 
 chafm of Meir-gill, on the weft fide of the fiieep-fence wall, 
 running north and fouth over the bafe of Ingleborough : it is 
 about eighty yards long, but in moit places fo narrow that 
 a perfon may ftride over it, and is no where above two or 
 three yards wide; in one place there is a curious natural 
 bridge over it. The depth is very different, in different 
 places ; at one place we found it a hundred feet, forty-eight 
 of which was in the water. One part will admit a bold and 
 aftive adventurer down alnujft to the water by a gradual, 
 but flippery defcent: here the fhafhow of the fuperincumbent 
 rocks like that in Hurtlepot, forms a deceitful appearance 
 in the water the bottom feems not above two feet below 
 the furface ; but how fatal would be the attempt to wade 
 this abyfs in queft of further difcoveries, from this fhadow 
 of encouragement ? The narrownefs of this crevice at the 
 top has fomething dreadful and alarming in it : how fatal 
 would one falfe ftep prove to the unwary fliepherd amongft 
 the fnow, when the mouth is drifted up ; or to a ftranger 
 bewildered in the fog, and looking forwards with eager eyes 
 for fame habitation, or frequented path? Hurm'efs and 
 heedlefs flieep have often been fuddenly fwallowed up by this 
 gaping wonder of nature. To fay that no living creature 
 ever came out of its mouth, would be a propofition too j^e- 
 neral. Trouts of a protuberent fize have been drawn out (.f 
 it, where they had been long nourifhed in fafety, their habi- 
 tation being feldom difturbed by the infidious fifherman. 
 
 A little further to the eafl we came to another curiofity 
 ©f nature, called Barefoot-wives-hole ; we had noticed it in 
 our afcent up the fide of Ingleborough. It is a large round 
 pit in form of a funnel, the diameter at top being about fiftr 
 or fixty yards, and its depth twenty-iix. It is eafily de- 
 fcended in mod places, though on the fouth fide there is an 
 
 high 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 high rocky precipice, but is dry, the waters that are emptied 
 into it being fvvallowed up among the rocks and loofe ftones 
 at the bottom. In our way back we alfo faw Hardrawkin, 
 and fome other fubterranean paflages of lefs note, which had 
 been formed by the waters in their defcentfrora the mountain 
 adjoining to Inglcborough, to the vale beneath. Indeed the 
 whole limeftone bale of this monller of nature is perforated 
 and excavated in all diredions, like a honeycomb*. 
 
 From the Chapel in the dale we fhaped our courfe towards 
 the fouth-eaft corner of Whernfide, along the road leading to 
 the village of Dent. As we proceeded, the curate entertained 
 us with an account of fome fingular properties obfervable in 
 the black earth, which compofes the foil in the higher parts 
 of the vaje, in various moraffy places. It is a kind of igneum 
 lutum, or rather a fort of putrified earth, which in the night 
 relcmbles fire, when it is agitated by being trod upon : the 
 efFcfts it produces in a dark evening are truly curious and 
 amazing. Strang^ers are always furprifed, and often fright- 
 ened to fee their own and horfes legs befprinkled to all ap- 
 pearance with fire, and fparks of it flying in every direftion, 
 as if llruck out of the ground from under their feet. They 
 are as much alaimed with it, as the country people are with, 
 the 'Will iv'ith the wtfp, or mariners with the luminous vapour 
 of the delapfed Cajlor and Pollux. Though the dark and 
 dreary moor is broke into thoufands of luminous particles, 
 like fo many glow-worms, when troubled by the benighted 
 traveller, yet if any part of this natural phofphorus is brought 
 before a lighted candle, its fplendour immediately vanifhes, 
 and it (brinks back into its original dull and dark ftate of 
 
 fordid 
 
 * Limeftone has all the appearance of having been once in a foft ftate 
 and eafily foluble in water j this principle will account for the fcallops 
 on the fuiface of limeftone rocks, being made perhaps by the water 
 draining off, while the ftone was foft; alfo for the chinks and crevices 
 amongft them, made by their ftinnking together, when dried by the fun. 
 The caves themftlves proceed from a great part of the rock moft pro- 
 bably being diffolvcd and waflied down by the ftreams pervading the 
 different ftrata. 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 fordid dirt. While we were endeavouring to account for 
 this curious phaenomenon on the principles of putrifadion 
 and eleSricity, we arrived at the firft objeft of this lateral 
 cxcurfion from the turnpike road, Gate-knk-cave*. The 
 brook which runs through it forms a fine natural bafon of 
 tranfparent water at its egrefs, where we entered the cave, 
 gradually encreafing in depth till about five or fix feet at 
 moft. I believe every one prefent thought it refembled the 
 cave defcribed by Ovid in the fecond of his Met amor phnfis^ 
 where Aftaeon unfortunately met with Diana and her nymph* 
 amufing themfclves with bathing, when feparated from his 
 •ompanions during the chace. 
 
 F allis erat piceis, ^ acuta denfa cupreffuy 
 
 Nomine Gargaphice ; fuccinaa cura Diana ; 
 
 Cujus in extremo ejl antrum nemorale recejfu. 
 
 Arte laboratum nulla : Jimulaverat artem 
 
 Jngenio natura fuo : nam pumice vivoy 
 
 Et levibus tophis natiimm duxerat arcum. 
 
 Fons fonat d dtxtrd, tenui pelluiidus undd, 
 
 Murgine gramineo patulos fuccincius hiatus. 
 
 Hie Dea Jilvafum venatu fejfa folelat 
 
 Virgeneos artus liquido perf under e rore. Ov. 5. 3. Fah. t, 
 
 Down in a vale, with pine and cyprefs clad, 
 Rt-frefh'd with gentle winds, and brown with fliadc. 
 The chafte Diana's private haunt there flood. 
 Full in the centre of a darkfome wood, 
 A fpacious grotto, all around o'er grown 
 With hoary mofs, and arch'd with pumice-ftone. 
 From out its rocky clefts the waters flow. 
 And trickling fwell into a lake below : 
 
 Nature 
 
 * A furlong or two before we arrived at Gate-kirk, we paffed a little 
 •afcade among fome hollow limeftone rocks, which would be a fine 
 embelliniment to a gentleman's garden or park. All the ground about 
 feemed hollow, and we faw various chafms and empty fpaces between 
 the ftrata of rocks, though none worth a particular riefcription in a c»untrj7 
 abounding with fuch a variety of a fuperiw nature. 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 Nature had crery where fo play'd her part 
 
 That every where fhe feem'd to vie with art. 
 
 Here the bright goddefs, toil'd and chaf'd with heat. 
 
 Was wont to bathe her in the cool retreat. ^ddifon. 
 
 Over the cave, where the water flows, is another fubterra* 
 tieaii paffage, of about twenty-four feet in length, and fron^ 
 three to ten in height: it enteis the other obliquely, and 
 looks like a natural orcheftra, and where indeed a band of 
 mufic would exhibit to great advantage to an audience below. 
 The roof of the cave, at the entrance by the ftream, is about 
 two yards high, but foon encreafes to fix* When we had 
 proceeded out of fight of day, a new train of ideas were ex- 
 cited in our imaginations. We could not but fancy that it 
 was like the cave of Polyphemc, or of fome giant in modern 
 romance, who hung up the mangled limbs of the unhappy 
 vidims that fell into his hands, to the dome of his murky den. 
 From the roof were pendant large petrifaftions in every gro«i 
 ttfque fliape; fome like hams, others like neat's tongue^ 
 many like the heads and various parts of different animals. 
 Some patts of this cave appeared like dreary vaults or cata- 
 combs, where were depofited the reliques of ancient heroes, 
 or martyrs. Some rocks at the bottom appeared like huge 
 ftone coffin", and fome large petrifactions on the (helves like 
 virgins or children reprefented in alabafter. As we proceeded 
 along we met with feveral bye ftreets or lanes, down fome of 
 which came tinkling little currents, but they feemed not to 
 admit a paffenger wiih eafe to any great diftance ; as we went 
 along we obferved that the way divided for a confiderablc 
 part of the whole length into two main ilreets, which united! 
 again, made by the current dividing above into two ftreams. 
 After we had gone near an hundred yards, we met with an 
 orifice, which eafily admitted us above ground : we had no 
 euriofity to explore any farther, as the roof was now become 
 only fome four feet high, and not admitting us with eafc 
 beyond this aperture. The brook which runs through this 
 cave is the main ftream of the liver Greta, which runs under- 
 ground 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 ground for at leafl: two riiiles, making its appearance here, at 
 Weathercoate, and a few other places in its way down to its 
 open channel. The pools that are formed by the brook after 
 its exit out of the cave, exhibit a pleafing and rural fcene, 
 being fhaded with rocks, weeping willows, and mountain afh. 
 
 Having travelled a mile or tvi-o further, and pafled through 
 the little remote village of Winterfcales, we came to the 
 natural curiolity we were in queft of, Greenfide-cave : it is 
 under the fouth-eart corner of the lofty mountain Whernfide : 
 the mouth was wide and high, and the road rugged; but 
 the roof gradually funk, or the bottom arofe, till it was 
 troublefome getting along, foon after we were out of fight 
 of day. A fmall brook ran along the bottom, as in the 
 other caves, but there were none of the curious petrifactions 
 we faw in moft of them to delight the eye. Churchill's 
 defcription of the Caledonian cave of famine, with a few 
 alteiations, will convey a juft idea of Greenfide-cave, 
 
 This lonely cave (hard tax on Scottifh pride!) 
 Shelter at once for man and beaft fuply'd : 
 Tliere inares without, entangling briers fpread. 
 And thiftles arm'd againll th' invader's head: 
 Here webs were fpread of more than common fize. 
 And half ftarv'd Ipidcrs prey'd on half ftarv'd flies; 
 In qucft of food, efts ftrove in vain to craw], 
 Shigs, pinch'd with hunger, fmcar'd the flimy wall — 
 The cave around with falling rivulets rung, 
 And on the roof unhealthy vapours hung. 
 
 Near the mouth of this cave is a thin ftratum of coal, not 
 many inches thick : fome attempts have been made to w^ork 
 it, but affording fo fmall gains, and the inhabitants being fo 
 well fupplied with this article from Ingleton, it was foon 
 deferted. Being fo near the top of Whernfide, we ventured 
 to afcend to the fummit. The profpedls were not diverfified 
 with many pleafing objefts, being farrounded almoft on all 
 ' fides 
 
ADDENDA. 273 
 
 fides with brown and blue chaotic mouritalns. We had a 
 peep into the pleafant tale of Dent beneath us, which made 
 us vvifh to fee it all. Periclle-hili appeared over the top of 
 Ingltborough, which give us an high idea of our own eleva- 
 tion, this latter mountai .. being much higher than the former. 
 We were furprifed to fie four oi five tarns or pools of u-atcr 
 on a plain very near the fummit of Whernfide. Two of them 
 were large, being two cr three hundred yards in length, and 
 nearly of the fame breadth ; for one was almoft ciicular, but 
 the other oblong. Tht.e was a very thin bed of coal aimoft 
 on the top of this mourtain, and we were told, another cor- 
 refponded with it on tht tup of the great Colm, j \ouy moun- 
 tain on the other fide d that branch of the vale of Dent 
 called Dibdale. We were told fome curious anecdotes of the 
 vaft cunning' and fagaci;y of the fheep dogs in this country, 
 in difcovering the Ihcep that had been "buried unf^er large 
 diifrs of mow for fome days, and that muft M eviuiljly h.ave 
 perilhed with hunger, or been drowned with the n.elting of 
 that vapour, if not diicovtVed by theie uitful auimals. 
 
 We now fhaped our courfe back to Winterfcales, and from 
 thence to a public-houft called Geurftones-, by the fide of the 
 turnpike road, at ihe bottom of the mountain Cam. Here 
 we refreflied ourfelvc.s and kft our hodes, while we went 
 about half a mile to the fouth, to explore anot iier fubterra- 
 nean wonder of nature, called Catknot-hole. Tiie entrance 
 into it at firil is not above three or four feel high, but ahnolt 
 immediately encreafcs to as many yaids. We had not gone 
 out of fight of day, before we were obliged to wade up to 
 the mid-ieg, a few yards, through a little pool made by the 
 rill that comes out of this cave. The pafiagr grew nar- 
 rower, but wide enough to walk along with eafc, except in 
 one or two places, where we were in danger of daubing our 
 cloaths with a red flime. We proceeded above a quarter of 
 a mile, when the road grew wider, but the roof was fo low 
 that we could not go on with eafc and pleafure : perhaps if 
 we had muftered humility and fortutude enough to have 
 
 crouched 
 
274 ADDEKDA. 
 
 erouched and crawled a little, we might have come to where 
 the roof again would have been as high as we fliould have 
 defired. In fome places there were alleys out of th? mai« 
 ftreet, but not extending to any great dillance, fo as to ad- 
 mit of paffengers. The rocks jutted our, and were pendant 
 in every grotefque and fantaftic fhape ; moft of them were 
 covered over with a fine coating of fpar, that looked like 
 alabafter, while icicles of various (hapes and colours were 
 pendant from the roof ; all generated by the fine particles of 
 ftone that exift in the water, which tianfudes through the 
 roof and fides, and leaves them adhering to the rock in 
 their defcent to the bottom. The various coloured reflec- 
 tions, made by the fpars and petrifaftions that abounded in 
 every part, entertained the eye with the greatell novelty and 
 variety ; while at the fame time, the different notes made 
 by the rill in its little cafcades, and revet berated from the 
 hollow rocks, amufed the ear with a new fort of rude and 
 fubterranean mufic, but well enough fuited to our flow and 
 gloomy march. This was the longeft fubterranean cxcuifion 
 we had yet made, and if we might have formed our own 
 computation of its extent, from the time we were in going 
 and coming, and not from the real admeafurement of our 
 guide, we fliould have thought it two or three times as long 
 as it was ; fo much were we deceived in our eflimate of a 
 road, unlike any we had ever before travelled. Tlie roman- 
 tic cafcades, pools, and precipices in the channel of the river 
 Ribble, that runs by the mouth of this cave, are not unwor-. 
 thy the notice of a ftranger. 
 
 We were in fome fufpenfe whether we fhould purfue the 
 turnpike road over Cam, to fee the natural cpriofities in 
 Wenfleydale : but as we learnt there was only one remark- 
 able objedl of the genus of thofe we were now in quell of, 
 Hardraw-fcar, we defifted ; as we (hoiild have loft other* 
 more valuable, which lay in a different route. The defcrip- 
 tion, however, which was given of it by our reverend guide, 
 was fo lively and pidturefque, that its own merit will be a 
 fufJicicnt apology for its infertion. 
 
 «' Hardraw-fc»r 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 *•* Hardraw-fcar is near the town of Hawes, in Wenfley- 
 ^iale, and bears fome diftant affinity to the tremf ndous Gor- 
 dal (hereafter taken notice of.) The chafm is pervious at the 
 bottom, and extends above three hundred yards in length, 
 fortified with huge (battered rocks on each fide, which arc 
 in fome places thirty-three yards perpendicular, and the in- 
 tervallum above eighty. At the far end is an amazing ca- 
 ,jtara£l, which pours forth a vaft quantity of water, that falls 
 into a deep bafon. Behind the water-fall is a deep recefs 
 excavated out of the folid rock : here the fpeftator may 
 ftand behind tlie ftream fccure from its madefying efFefts, 
 and may go quite round it upon one of the numerous faxa 
 fedil'ta, at the diftance of ten yards from the water. In the 
 year 1740, when fairs were held on the Thames, this cafcadc 
 was frozen, and conftitutt-d a prodigious icicle of a conic 
 form, thirty-two yards and three quarters in circumference, 
 which was alfo its height." 
 
 After having determined to go by Settle, we had our doubt 
 whether we fhould proceed by Ling-gill, which is a curious 
 and romantic channel of a fmall river, having high and gro- 
 tefque rocks on each fide ; or take a more weAern diredlion 
 on the other fide of the river Ribble, in order to fee fome 
 , other caves and chalms. Our tatle for curiofities of this fort 
 induced us to adopt the latter plan. We returned ahoiU a 
 mile before we left the turnpike road, and then turning off" 
 to the left, proceeding almoll to the fame diftance, we came 
 to Alan or Alumn-pot, two or three furlongs above the little 
 Tillage of Selfide. It is a round fteep hole in the limeftone 
 rock, about eight or ten yards in diameter, and of a tre- 
 mendous depth, fomewhat refembling Elden-hole, in Derby- 
 fhire. We flood for fome time on its margin, which is 
 fringed round with fhrubs, in filent altonifhment, not think- 
 ing it fafe to venture near enough to its biim, to try if we 
 ,«ould fee to its bottom. The profundity feemed vaft and 
 terrible, from the continued hollow gingling noile excited 
 ^1»y the ftones we tumbled into it. We plummed it to the 
 
 T z Jeptfe 
 
276 ADDENDA. 
 
 depth of a hundred and fixty-five feet, forty-three of which 
 were in water, and this is an extraordinary dry feafon : as 
 the diredtton of this hole was not exaftly perpendicular but 
 ^fomewhat floping, it is very probable we were not quite at 
 the bottom. A fubterranean rivulet defccnds into this ter- 
 rible hiatus, which caufed fuch a dreadful gloom from the 
 fpray it raifed up as to make us fhrink back with horror, 
 when we could get a peep into the vaft abyfs. We weie 
 informed, that not long fnice fome animals, an ox and a 
 calf at different times, had the misfortune to tumble into 
 this dreary pit, being tempted by the untafled herbage to 
 venture too far on its flippery margin. Only a low mourid 
 of earth furrounds its brim j for a. ftone wall would anfwer 
 no other purpofe, than to afford the curious traveller mate- 
 rials to throw in for his aniufement. Any advantage ari- 
 fing from the flcins and caicafes of thefe animals, were not 
 fufficient inducement to tempt a neigbouring adventurous 
 youth to be let down by ropes to the bottom of this frightful 
 chafm. The waters run from its bottom above a mile un- 
 derground, and then appear again in the open air, below 
 the little village of Selfide. After having excited the feveral 
 paflions of curiofity, dread, and horror, from the negative 
 knowledge we got of the capacity and depth of this huge 
 pot, we went a little higher up the mountain, and came to 
 another hiatus called Long-churn. We defcended down till 
 we came to a fubterranean- brook : we firfl afcended the ca- 
 vern, down which the ftream ran, proceeding in a weftern 
 dirtclion, for at leaft, as we imagined, a quarter of a mile, 
 till we came to a crevice which admited us into our native 
 region. We meafuved the diftance between the two extre- 
 mities above ground, and found it two hundred and forty 
 one yards, but it mufl. be nearly double that diftance along 
 the pafTage below, on account of all the turnings and wind- 
 ings. The petrifaftions here were the mofl numerous of 
 any we had yet feen, few people coming either to break 
 them off or deface them. When we were almoft arrived at 
 the we(l?rn extremity, we came to a fine round bafon of 
 
 pellucid 
 
ADDENDA. 277 
 
 pellucid watei- from three to twelve feet deep, known by 
 tlie name of Di\ Bannifter's hand bafon. A lofty, fpacious, 
 and elegant dome is placed immediately over it, which nicely 
 correfponds to the hollow receptacle at the bottom : into 
 this bafon a rivulet falls down a fteep rock above fix feet 
 high, which is very dangerous to get up, and muft be done 
 at the expence of a wet flcin, except a ladder is taken along 
 with the paity, or the waters are lefs copious, than when 
 we were there ; there is alfo fome danger left the adven- 
 turer fhould fall back, and have his bones broken by cir- 
 cumjacent rocks, or be drowned in the dodlor's bafon. Af- 
 ter having furmounted this obftacle, and proceeded fome 
 yards farther, we were favoured with an egrefs into our own 
 element, as was before obferved ; no unwelcome change, af- 
 ter having been fo long excluded from it. After having 
 refted ourfelves a little, we returned to the chafm, where wc 
 fitll entered Long-churn, and defcending again purfued the 
 rivulet eall-ward, along another extenfive fubterranean paf- 
 fage, called Dicken-pot, which flopes and winds by degrees 
 till it enters the gaftly and tremendous Alan-pot. We went 
 a hundred and fifty-feven yards along this autre vajl till wc 
 came to a fteep rock full twelve feet perpendicular : here 
 we ftopped ; a wife confideration ! We might have defcended 
 perhaps without danger, but the queftion was how we were 
 to get up again ; Vvhich, without ropes or a ladder, would 
 be totally impradlicable : at tlie far end was an elegant lofty 
 dome called by the country people St. Paul's. There is no 
 doubt but if we had ventured further we might have come 
 to Alan-pot, at leaft fo near, as either to have feen the water 
 that ftagnatcs at its bottom, or the light that is admited 
 into this gaping moniter of nature. 
 
 There are feveral other caves all along from hence on the 
 fouth fide of Ingleboroughj above the village of Clapham, to 
 Ingleton : but we poftponed the pleafure of exploring thefc 
 hidden receffes of nature till another fummer. We defcended 
 from hence along the banks of the river Ribble four or five 
 T 3 mile* 
 
<i78 ADDENDA. 
 
 miles farther to the village of Horton, fituated at the bottoi^ 
 of the lofty and elegant mountain Penegant. As we went 
 along we pafled a large heap of fmall round Hones, called an 
 hurder : we were told there were two other by the fidt of 
 the turnpike road, in a field called the Slights, one abont a 
 mile, and the other a mile and a half eaft of the Chapel in 
 the dale. They feem evidently placed there by human hands, 
 and what was moll ejCtraordinary, they were all fmall, round, 
 fandy, and gritty ftones, and all the ftones on the furface of 
 the ground near them are limeftone. No doubt they were 
 tumuli of fome deceafed chieftains in the neighbourhood, or 
 who died on their travels. 
 
 Before we left Horton we vifited fome natural curiofities 
 of the cavern kind on the bafe of Penegant *. Dowgill-fcar, 
 a little above Horton, is a grotefque amphitheatre of limeftunc 
 rocks, compofing an high precipice, which muft appear 3.\v- 
 ful and grand in a flood, when a large torrent of water fall* 
 from the top, full in view : a fmall lubterrancan palTage was 
 able to take all the water when we wtre there. A romantic 
 gallery, on the north fide of the rocks, had a good eflfeft in 
 the fcene. About a mile or two above Horton, upon the 
 bale of Penegant, we vifited Hulpit and Huntpit holes : the 
 one, if we could have defcended into it, would have appeared 
 like the Infide of an enormous old Gothic caftle, the high 
 ruinous walls of which were left ftanding, after the roof was 
 fallen in. The other was like a deep funnel, and it was 
 dangerous to come near its edges. Hortoii-beck or brook, 
 runs through the one, and Branfil-beck through the other of 
 thcfe pits, but through which I cannot remember ; they each 
 •run underground near a mile ; Hortoii-beck appearing again 
 at Dowgill-fcar, and Branfil-beck at a place called Branfil- 
 
 head. 
 
 * The word Pen is of Phaenician extradtion, and fignifies hiad or emi- 
 ren^e. It was firft introduced Into Cornwall, where the Phsenicians had 
 a colony, who wrought the tin mines. Hence we have many names in 
 Cornwall which begin with Pen. Moft mountains in Wales begin with 
 Pen. In Scotland the labial letter / is changed into and Pen into 
 as BenioT.and Ber.e'vljb', dz. 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 279 
 
 iiead. But what is moft extraordinary, thefe fubterraneau 
 brooks crofs each other uudergroiind without mixing waters, 
 the bed of one being on a ftratum above the other ; this was 
 difcovered by tlie muddy water after a fheep wafhing going 
 down the one paffagc, and the feeds or huflcs of oats that 
 were fent down the other. About a couple of miles from 
 Korton, on the rigiit hand fide of the road to Settle, is a cu- 
 rious ftone quany, at a place called Culms or Coums. The 
 ftones are of a blue kind, like flate, from one to three inches 
 thick : fome are two or three yards broad, ai d five or iiX 
 yards long ; they are made ufe of for floors in houfes, hc'wg 
 Lmetimes laid over cellars on joifts ; they are alfo ufcd for 
 gate-pofts, foot-bridges, and partitions between the ftalls ia 
 ftables and cow-houies. 
 
 At Stainforth, which is about three miles from Horton, 
 and t^vo from Settle, we were entertained with two cafcades, 
 one in the Ribble, near the road, about fix or eight yards 
 high, and another a little above the village, perhaps twenty 
 •r thirty yards perpendicular. 
 
 About a quarter of a mile before we arrived at Settle, wg 
 turned to the right, along the road towaids Kirkby-Lonfdale, 
 about a mile, under the high and romantic rocks- called 
 Gigglefwick-fcar, in order to fee the well by the way fide, 
 that ebbs and flows. We were in luck, feeing it reciprocate 
 feveral times uhile we were there, and not flaying above an 
 hour. We could not however learn, with any degree of cer- 
 tainty, by what intervals of time, and to what heights and 
 depths the reciprocation was carried on. We were informed 
 that if the weather was either very droughty or very wet, 
 the phienomenon ceafed. I have feen fome philofophical 
 attempts to folve this extraordinary curiofity, on the prin- 
 ciple of the fyphon, but in vain; as on that hypothefis, if 
 the fyphon is filled by the fpring, it will flow on uniformly 
 for ever." We were told by drunken Barnaby, an hundred 
 »nd fifty years ago, that it puzzled the wits of his age. 
 
 T 4 P^eni 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 J^eni Giggle fiv'ich^ parum frugls 
 Profert tellusy claufajugis : 
 Ib't vena prope via 
 
 Fluit, reftuitf node, die ; , 
 Neque norunt unde vena^ 
 d fale vel arena. 
 
 Tlience to Gigglefwick, moft ften'I, 
 Hem'd with fhelves and rocks of peril ; 
 Near to the way, ao a traveller goes, 
 A fine frefh fpring both ebbs and flows ; 
 Neither know the learn'd that travel, 
 What procures it, fait or gravel. 
 
 As we approached towards Settle, in our return, a white 
 rock, like a tower, called Caftleber, immediately above the 
 town, and about twenty or thirty ^ards in perpendicular 
 height, engaged our attention. This precipice is partly na- 
 tural and partly a work of art ; it is made deeper and more 
 dangerous every day, in confequence of ftones being got from 
 its bottom and fides, to fupply an adjoining lime kiln. 
 
 Settle is irregularly built, has a large and fpacious market- 
 place, but not many good houfes in it : chough by no means 
 an inconfiderabk town either for trade, riches, or number of 
 inhabitants : it has no church or chapel. The church is at 
 Gigglefwick, about a mile off, which appeared to be the court 
 end of the parifh, conliiling chiefly of gentlemen's houfes. 
 
 From Settle we proceeded eaftward over the moors and 
 mountains about half a dozen miles, to Malham, or Maum, 
 in order to fee fome other natural curiofities of the precipice 
 and cataraft kind. We had already indeed feen fo many^ 
 that our wonder could not eafily be excited, except there 
 /were more great and terrible : as fuch we had them repre- 
 J fented at Settle, or elfe we fliould fcarce have left the tuin- 
 pike road j and when we faw them we were jiot difappointed^ 
 
 for 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 28r 
 
 for great and terrible they ate. The fir ft was Malham-cavc^ 
 (or vulgarly Maum-cove) though it has properly nothing of 
 the cave about it. It is a fine amphitheatre of perpendicular 
 limeltone rock, on the fide of the moor, at leaft a hundred 
 yards high in the middle. The rocks lie ftratum upon ftra- 
 turn, and on fome there are Jaxa fedilia, or (helves, fo that a 
 perfon of great fpiric and agility, but of fmall and flender 
 body, might almoil walk round. A fmall brook fpring* 
 out at the bottom of the rocks ; but in floods the narrovr 
 fubterranean palTage is not able to give vent to all the water, 
 when there pours down a ftupendous cataraft, in height 
 almoft double that of Niagara. This is «;he higheft perpen- 
 dicular precipice I have ever feen, and I think not enough 
 known and admired by travellers for its greatnefs and re- 
 gularity. After purfuing our journey near a mile, by the 
 fide of the deep and romantic channel of the river Air, which 
 wa(hes the bafe of many a rugged and high precipice in it» 
 impetuous courfe to the vale beneath, we came to Gordale, 
 the higheft and moft ftupendous of them all. The profpe£t 
 of it from the fide of the oppofite weftern bank is awful, 
 great, and grand. Afier viewing for fome time its horrid 
 front with wonder and aftonifhment, we were tempted to 
 defcend with care and circumfpefkion down the fteep bank 
 on the weft fide to this river, which being interfperfed with 
 trees and fhrubs, enabled us to rely on our hands, where we 
 could find no fure foot hold. 'The water being low we met 
 with no difficulty in ftepping from one broken fragment of 
 the rocks to another, till we got on the other fide, when we 
 found ourfelves underneath this huge impending block of 
 folid limeftone, near a hundred yards high. The idea for 
 perfonal fafety excited fome awful fenfations, accompanied 
 with a tremor. The mind is not always able to diveft itfelf 
 ■of prejudices, and unpleafing alTociations of ideas : reafon 
 told us that this rock could not be moved out of its place 
 by human force, blind chance, or the eftabliftied laws of 
 nature. We ftood too far under its margin to be affeded 
 by any crumbling defcendiug fragment, and a very fmall 
 
 9ne 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 one would have crufhed us to atoms, if it had fallen upoa 
 us : yet in fpite of reafon and judgment, the fame un- 
 pleafing fenfations of terror ran coldly through our veins, 
 which we fhould have felt, if we had looked down, though 
 fecure, from its lofty top. Nothing however fell upon us 
 but a few large drops, which fweat from out its horrid pro- 
 minent front. Some goats fiiflced about, wirh feemingly a 
 wanton careleflhefs, on the brink of this dreadful precipice, 
 where none of us would have ftood for all the pleafant vales 
 waftied by the river Air. Some lines in VirgWs Eclogues 
 feemed to receive additional beauties when repeated in thi» 
 grotefque fcene. 
 
 Non ego vos pojlhac, v'lrtdt projeBus in anirOf 
 JDumoJa pendtre protul dt rupe videbo. 
 
 Virgil Eel. I. /. 76. 
 
 No more, extended in the grot below. 
 Shall I e'er fee my goats high up the brow 
 Eating the prickly flirubs, or void of care 
 Lean down the precipice, and hang in air. 
 
 A little higher up is a fine cafcade, where the river driving 
 for an eafier and gentler defcent, has forced a way through 
 the rocks, leaving a rude natural arch remaining above. If 
 a painter wanted to have embellifhed his drawing of this 
 romantic fcene with fome grotefque objeft, he could have 
 added nothing which would have fuited his purpofe better, 
 if nature had not done the work for him. 
 
 * From Gordale we proceeded to a curious lake, called 
 Maum or Malham-tarn, abounding with fine trout, upon the 
 top of the moor; and from thence by Kilfey crag to Graf-* 
 llngton, on the banks of the river Wharf. Coming unex- 
 
 peftedly 
 
 * If Kelfey-crag fliould not be thought an objeft worth going fix or ft- 
 ven miles to fee, the bell way from Gerdale t« Skipton, will be by Kirkby, 
 Ms£&amdale, and Gargrave. 
 
ADDEN t) A. 
 
 pcAedly te the erags of KJlfey, 1 was a good deal amazed 
 at the profpea. They are by the fide of the vale, along 
 which defcends the river Wharf : like thofe at Gigglefwick, 
 they extend in a line to fome diftance, but are higher and 
 more prominent. The road we came along winding down 
 amongft thefe crags, fo that we were prefented with a full 
 view of them on a fudden, which caufed the greater furprife. 
 After having refreflied ourfelves at Graffington, we travelled 
 about nine miles farther and came to Skipton. The country 
 an round us is uneven and rugged ; the vales are fertile on 
 the furface, and the mountains beneath it abound with rich 
 mines of lead. After we had vifited the caftle (which be- 
 longs to the Earl of Thanet) and the curious canal behind it, 
 above the mills, which leads to the limeftone quarry, by tht 
 fide of a romantic deep glen, we left Skipton. Before our 
 depaiture we were for lome time in doubt, whether we ftiould 
 afcend the fteep and black hill of Rombaldfmoor, and fo pro- 
 ceed down the vale of Wharldale, one of the pleafanteft ia 
 England to Otley, and fo to Leeds,— or go by Keighley, 
 'Bingley, at\d Bradford, along the fide of the new canal, and 
 Yiew the locks and other contrivances on this new and.ufcful 
 work of art. Moft of us having been the former road, and 
 this with its objeas being quite new, we were induced to pro- 
 ceed along it. At Kildwick, about four miles from Skipton, 
 we paffcd under this aquaedud, where it was banked up a great 
 height above the adjoining lands, at a vaft labour and ex- 
 pence ; there have been fome violent ftruggles between the 
 elements of earth and water: the mounds have not always 
 been able to keep the water within its proper limits, they 
 having oftener than once, been broken through by the pref- 
 fure on their fides. About a mile further, at Steeton, we 
 could not but obferve the fteep afcent and defcent of the road 
 over a hill, when a level path might have been made almo'ft 
 equally near along the fide of the river. The inconveniences 
 that muft attend carriage in carts and waggons, from fuch 
 ill-concerted roads, perhaps might fuggeft the expediency of 
 a canal. The afc and piaaicability of fuch an undertaking 
 
284 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 in a mountainous country, one would imagine might give 
 the iahabitaijts a hint to make their roads wind with eafy 
 afcents and defcents along the fides of the vale. From 
 Skipton to Otley, the road is carried up and down the cor- 
 Ber of the fteep mountain Rombaldfmoor, when as near a 
 one might have been conduced along the vale beneath. 
 The inhabitants might have carried to the market the pro- 
 duce of their lands, and brought coals and manure at a 
 little expence, if this plan had been adopted ; but the pre- 
 judices againft improvements and innovations are not eafily 
 removed. At Bingley we were entertained with the locks ; 
 there are five or fix of them together, where the barges afccnd 
 or defcend eighty or ninety feet perpendicular, in the dif- 
 tance of about a hnndred yards. They are elegant, and 
 well finiflied, but feem too deep not to leak and be frequently 
 out of repair. 
 
 About four miles before we arrived at Leeds, In our way 
 from Bradford, we were fuddenly prefented with the grand 
 and venerable ruins of Kirkftal-abbey, full In view from the 
 road : we flood fome minutes looking with filent rcfpedl and 
 reverence on the havock which had been made by time on 
 this facred edifice. How much foever we might condemn^ 
 the miftaken notions of monkifh piety, that induced the de- 
 votees to lethargic fupinenefs, and to forfake all the focial 
 duties of life in order to be good men ; yet wc fecretly re- 
 vered that holy zeal which infpirited them to exert every 
 power in ereding ftruftures, the magnitude and beauty of 
 which might excite ideas worthy of the Deity to whom they 
 were dedicated; and alfo reprobated that fanatic b>gotiy 
 which fuffered them to decay and go to ruin, becaufe they 
 were once inhabited by a fet of chriftians whofe manner of 
 worfhip was not orthodox. While we were moralizing thus 
 on religious prejudices, the inltability of the work of men'» 
 hands, and the fading glories ef this world, we came to 
 Leeds. 
 
 At 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 Ab the largenefs and extent of this thnving manufac- 
 turing town, with all its elegant buildings in and about it, 
 are well known to yon, and as you have alfo feen every- 
 thing worth notice in and near the road from thence, I fhall 
 here take my leave of you, and no longer tire you with a 
 relation of the adventures and curiofities I met with in my 
 fummer's journey. 
 
 ADDRESS 
 TO THE GENIUS OF THE CAVES. 
 
 —Hail kindred glooms ! 
 
 Congenial horrors hail ! 
 
 Thompson; 
 
 Thou fpirit dread, 
 
 That hover'ft o'er this rocky region erft, 
 
 With burning fulphur, and volcanic ftreams 
 
 Of fire extinft, all hail!— thou whofe loud ftriek 
 
 Midft fcowling tempefts, oft the littening fwain 
 
 Haft heard agaft ; oft in flow pacing clouds. 
 
 That drag their fweeping trains o'er Gragareth's fteep, 
 
 Has trac'd thy wild fantaftic form. Thy fteps 
 
 Through many a rugged, uncouth path, well pleaf'd 
 
 I follow, whether from the dread abyfs 
 
 Of fome unfathom'd cavern*, Echo's groans, 
 
 With many a dreary paufe between, from rock 
 
 To rock rebound, and break upon my ear 
 
 Like diftant thunder : or my raptur'd gaze, 
 
 E'en from the yew-fring'd margin, down the fteep, 
 
 Purfues f the foaming cataracSl's headlong courfe, 
 
 Till fpent and dazzl'd on thofe wat'ry hues 
 
 Midway it refts, where light refrafted paints 
 
 Each cluftering dew-drop's glalTy orb, and vic» 
 
 With 
 
 * Gingling-cave, on Gragaretii. 
 
 ■f Wcathcreoat-caVe,*iQ Chapel in the dale. 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 With melting Iris' vernal-tinftur'd bovr. 
 Or whether by the taper's glim'ring ray 
 Led on, my fteps pervade thy fecret fhrinc, 
 Yordas, where hid from Phsebus' garrifh eye, 
 With contemplation, thy compeer, thou fit'ft. 
 And like a curtain fpread'fl thy cloud of night 
 Around thy throne. I feel, I feel thee near ! 
 Full many a young idea, that 'ere this 
 Hath flcpt in filence, at thy thrilling call 
 Starts from its trance, and, kindling into life, 
 With joy and mingled awe attemper'd, fwell^ 
 My crowded foul, and ever and anon, 
 As at the wizard's call, my draining eye. 
 Quick glancing, fees a thoufand fleeting fhap«s 
 Scatter'd from bright ey'd fancy's dewy plume. 
 
 Parent of horrors, hail ! to my fix'd eye 
 Thy facred form, in thefe, thefe folemn fcene$ 
 Reveal'd, dtfcends : and O ! more awful far 
 This great defign, grav'd by fair nature's hand, 
 Thefe frowning rocks, and min'ral roofs reflect 
 Thy femblance, than could Raphael's warmth devife, 
 Than Phidias featur'd marble : and thy voice, 
 Borne on the panting wing of each low blaft 
 That fighs along the vault, awakes the foul 
 To feelings more ennobled than the lyre 
 Of Orpheus, or the rapture-breathing ftrains 
 Of Handel e'er infpir'd. O ! may 1 oft 
 In this Egerian cave, great power, attend 
 Thy facred prefence ; here with nature's felf 
 Hold conveife ; 'nil by jufl degrees my mind 
 Through fcience' footfteps pierce the harmonious maze 
 Of facred order, and to brighter views 
 From day to day afpiiing, trace at length. 
 Through all the wonders of this nether world, 
 Th' Eternal caufe ; to him on rapture's wing 
 Dart her fwift flight, and fcale the walls of heavea. 
 
 ARTICLE 
 
ADDENDA. i^ 
 ARTICLE VIII. 
 
 FURTHER ACCOUNT? 
 OF 
 
 FURNESS FELLS$ 
 
 OBSLRTATIONS ON PLACING OBJECTS ON THI IMINENCE8, 
 AND PLANTING IREES IN THE TALLIES SEEN IN TKfS 
 
 tour ; being the note intended for page 4.J. 
 
 FURNESS FELLS, and the adjacent parts here aU 
 luded to, are fo peculiarly diftinguirtied with pidurefque 
 beauty, that they deierve a more minute defcription. Thi» 
 country conliils of a fucceffion of mountains and valHes^ 
 formed and intermixed in all the poffible variety of rural 
 nature. Much of the vallies, and the bafes of moft of the 
 hills, are covered with young wood, which at certain periods 
 is cut down and charred for the ufe of the neighbouring 
 furnaces. On this account, the copfes, which confift of 
 various kinds of trees, conftantly, in the fummer, exhibit 
 every pleafing colour of youthful vegetation. The mai* 
 fhoots, alfo, fpring up fo ftraight, and the collateral ones at 
 fuch fmall angles with them, that they give an uncommon 
 idea of vegetating vigour ; and when they are feen rooted 
 in the clefts of rocks, fancy will conceive them not unlike 
 the ftreams of fome fluid burfting forcibly from its prifon. 
 Attiong thefe copfes are found fcveral neat villages, houfes, 
 and fpaces of cultivated land, which, with a number of 
 brooks *and rivers, tumbling and tinkling among them, con- 
 ftitute a fcene of fylvan beauty exceedingly lively and fin- 
 gular. But what ftill enhances the whole, is the goodnefs 
 •f the highways, ©f which, in fine weather, it is not ex- 
 travagant 
 
^88 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 travagant to fay, in general, that they are more like the 
 walks of a gentleman's pleafiite ground, than roads for 
 ordinary occupation. This circumilance, though in part 
 owing to the peculiar goodr efs of the materials, is, iiever- 
 thelefs, much indebted to the neatnefs and public fpirit of 
 the inhabitants. 
 
 A laudable tafte for adorning nature has led us from or- 
 namented gardens to ornamented farms, and, being in the pof- 
 feffion of good roads (an effciitial article for the difplay of 
 rural beauty) there feems to be but one thing wanting to 
 make this a truly ornamented country. What I mean here 
 is, artificial oljeds raifed on proper parts of the mountains and 
 eminences, which at every turn are prcfented to us through 
 fome agreeable opening or other. 
 
 Eminences are as naturally fit places for objects intended 
 to attraft the diflant eye, as they are for enabling the eye 
 to furvey diftant objefts. Hence to decorate them with co- 
 lumns, obelijks, temples, &c. has the fandion of natural fitnefs. 
 And if to this confideration we add that of the inherent 
 beauty of the objedls themfelves, and reqiember, that there 
 is nothing fets off the beauties of nature fo much as elegant 
 works of art, — -juftifying motives for thefe eredtions can 
 never be wanting to any one who has a tafte for rural 
 beauty, and is willing to accorapliih as much of it as is in 
 his power. But this is not all. The praftice is certainly 
 patriotic. For fuch elegant ornaments will at lead natu- 
 rally contribute to dift'ufe a ferenity and cheerfulnefs of 
 mind into every beholder; and thence (if we may be par- 
 doned the figure) like eledrical condudfors, they may be 
 fuppofed to bring down a little of the happy placidity of 
 better regions, to add to the natural quantity (hooting about 
 on the earth. As another motive it may be obfcrved, that 
 it is pleafing in any country to fee the inhabitants fo much 
 at eafe in mind and circumftances as to pay attention to 
 thefe fanciful undertakings, and moreover, tkat as a man 
 
 •f 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 of fenfe appears the more fo for feeming confcious of the 
 importance of what he fays, fo every traveller will conceive 
 the better of a people, who, fenfible of the natural advan- 
 tages of their country, are found difpofed to make the beft 
 of them. 
 
 How thefe objefts flaould be formed or fituated muft for 
 the moft part be determined by circumitances under the eye 
 of tafte. One thing however feems worthy of particular 
 notice in this place, which is, that eretlions of this fort 
 would have the moft grand and charadleriftic effedt placed 
 on eminences, fo as to have the flcy for a back-ground. 
 When this is the cafe, the hi!ls they are raifed upon fliould 
 be bounded by agreeable lines, feen at a great diftance, and 
 much in fight of the principal roads*. 
 
 The moft fimple ef thcfe ereftions are obelifl<s, and pro- 
 perly formed fummer-houfcs f . But a feries of columns 
 conftituting a temple, or fupporting arches, pediments, &c. 
 would have by much the^ beft effefl, provided they were 
 properly large, for the ordinary points of view. Through 
 the openings of thefe columns, the fliy would always give 
 
 V them 
 
 * If thpy be not intended alfo for a near infpedlion, they need not be 
 •f any expenfive maten Js. Provided they be well formed in outline 
 (and for the dejif;'' of which artifts of tafte fliould always be applied to) 
 •ommon (lone and mortar wjU do very well. 
 
 f Tills kind of futnmer-houfe fliould either be odlagonal, or at leaft 
 have more than four fidts. And if either of thefe forts of ereiSions be 
 not placed on very pomted hills, care fliould be taken to l a.fe them (ei- 
 ther by raifing the earth on which they rtand, or by giving them a high 
 ruftic bafe, &c.) fo that the fides of the hills will not prevent a complete 
 fight of their elevation irom tlie principal points of view.— Nothing can 
 be worfe managed than to fee thefe objctfis as if rifing beyond the top 
 of the hill, or irom the bottom of a fifli-pond. 
 
 Perhaps a fummer-houfe {landing on proper niftic arches (through 
 which the flcy might be feen) would, for the following rsafon, in toTtfc 
 safes have a good efFcft. 
 
290 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 them a ftriking appearance ; but in an evening, if the fu« 
 Tet behind them, no fpedacle of the kind could be imagined 
 more grand and attraftive, or more accordant with the fub- 
 limity of the fm-rounding mountains. — Perforated doors and 
 windows, in the imitation of old Gothic ruins, it is true, 
 would yield part of this effeft, but their gloomy and irre- 
 gular appearance renders them in the cafe before us gene- 
 rally improper. 
 
 Something of this kind (on the bolder eminences parti- 
 cularly) feems to be all the effential article that is wanting 
 to perfeA the rural beauties of this country ; except^ indeed, 
 it may be thought, that a little more attention paid to the 
 removal and planting of trees, would be of ufe for that end ; 
 and concerning which I beg leave to lengthen this article 
 with a few obfervations. 
 
 Trees are certainly the ornament and pride of vegetable 
 nature. A bird defpoiled of its plumage fcarce feems more 
 mutilated and ungainly than countries and inclofures de- 
 ftituce of trees. They have a good efFedl planted even (in 
 their word fituation) any how in hedge rows; but if tht-y 
 be lightly fcattered with tafte in proper patts of the incloiure 
 itfelf, they become infinitely more pleafing. Hence, though 
 nature has done wonders in the difpofition of trees in fomc 
 of her favouiite haunts, yet ftill (if not in them) ftie may be 
 improved upon in others, by the affiftance of art. And let 
 not the lips of fordidnefs objeft to the purport of thib hint, 
 that if put in praftice it would aflc fome care and expence, 
 and probably prevent the growth of what is more profitable 
 to the owner, and ferviceable to man : for the God of nature 
 is far from having fully proportioned the animals of the earth 
 to its produce. And as he renders fruitlefs innumerable 
 feeds of almoll every vegetable and animal creature, fo the 
 application of a part of our care, and a portion of the earth 
 to its own 01 :*.ament, is, I am perfuaded, fo far from being 
 culpable or improper, that (in humble imitation.of the di- 
 vine 
 
ADDENDA. 291 
 
 •nne love of beauty and liberality) it feems as much to be 
 required from the pious votary of nature as his admiration 
 of what comes immediately from its own efforts. In both 
 cafes God is alike honouied ; and honour to God is certainly 
 too nearly connedlcd with religion to make it in any cafe an 
 aft of indifference. Do then, ye affluent and profperoua 
 land-holders, pay fome attention-to this particular. Study 
 the fubjcd through the medium of books and pidures, and 
 fometimes fpare, and fometimes plant a tree for ornament's 
 lake. And, if you think them reafonable ones, obferve alfo 
 the few following remarks, humbly offered to your confide- 
 ration. — They fhall be made as brief as poflible. 
 
 The greateft nicety and perfeftlon in the art of planting 
 trees lies in the ufe of exotics, and an ingenious mixture of 
 foli age, in oider to decorate, for near 'mfpetlion, tlie marginal 
 views of a lawn, walk, &e. But if ever a fondncfs for agri- 
 culture, built upon a love of limple nature and fober piety, 
 (of which there are too, too few indications in our prefent 
 ifianners) fliall turn the general tafte of the kingdom towards 
 ornamented farms, fuch an event cannot be fuppofed to be 
 fuddenly brought about. Hence the precepts that relate to 
 this elegant part of gardening, will in this place be wholly 
 unnecefTary, and our attention muft be confined to the ma- 
 nagfment of the larger trees, which are already found in 
 thefe regions. 
 
 Scotch firs, though a favourite tree with many people, 
 feem to require a good deal of judgment in their ufe ; for 
 they may be fo planted as to injure a landfcape more perhaps 
 than they are generally feen to adorn it. In hanging-woods 
 (with which this country abounds) they frequently appear 
 to difadvantage however difpoJeJ. A fingle tree in this cafe 
 often looks like a blot, and a plantation like a daub ; ef- 
 pecially in winter, when the moft is expefted from their 
 Terdure. The reafon of this feems to be the darknefs of 
 their colour, and the obvioufnefs of their ivhole forni and 
 
 V 2 out-line ; 
 
2i)% ADDENDA. 
 
 out-line: from the fiift particular they always attradl the 
 eye more than any thing elfc, and, from the fecond, hurt 
 the imagination with prefenting to it only a parcel of fmall 
 Uniiteil ftreaks or patches, aukwardly inclined to the horizon. 
 When nightly and irregularly interfperfed In woods of this 
 kind, they may now and then pleafe from variety. But, in 
 general, they come fo forward to the eye, and, at a good 
 diftance, in winter, fo much refemble yetVf holiy, and the like 
 gloomy and barren-looking trees, that they do a real injury 
 to the foft and pleafing tints, which refult from the native ■ 
 ftems, and which, from ufe, befl; accords with the idea of 
 thriving woodlands, 
 
 For thefe reafons Scotch firs look beft when they are fee» 
 in large horizontal plantations, on low (or at leaft not high) 
 ground; when the front is only expofed to fight, (hence 
 their depth backward imagined very great) and when the 
 blue vapours of an extended horizon are feen over their tops. 
 In this cafe they have a very grand effeft, and form a fine 
 dark contraft to the pale and diftinft features of the over-, 
 looking hills. 
 
 Thofe circular groups of trees called clumps, are oftener 
 feen than worthy of praife. They appear to have the beft 
 effe£t (if they mult be ufed) for near views, or when they 
 are found in the middle of a level open vale of fine lawn or 
 meadow. But on the JtJes of diftant hills, or mountains, 
 (where they are feen all round) their appearance is truly 
 paltry. The mote fmooth and large thefe eminences are, 
 the more improper this fpecies of ornament becomes ; and in 
 fliort, I apprehend, the features of a lady's face would fcarce 
 be more injured by the mark of her thimble, than the fea- 
 tures of feveral hills would be by thefe unnatural circles. — - 
 At the fame time however that we fcenfure this mode of de- 
 corating mountains, it may be proper to obferve that if they 
 be wholly covered with wood, or lightly interfperfed with - 
 ;(ingle trees, &c. the effeft will be natural and pleafing. 
 
 But 
 
ADDENDA. 29 j 
 
 feut the moll abfurd decoration of thcfe eminences in 
 vogue is a few trees placed on their top, fo that the whole 
 boles of the foremoft ranks may be feen down to their very- 
 roots. Trees we know are chieBy the produce of the lower 
 parts of the earth's furface, and to fee the roots of fom'e 
 above the heads of others, as it were, tier above tier, is not 
 natural, and therefore not beautiful. — Houfes, which arc the 
 work of art, feldora look well in this form. In fliort, what- 
 ever be the circumftances of the bafe of a fine mountain as to 
 wood, its top fliould either be wholly naked, or ornamented 
 with one of thofe artificial ereftions fpoken of above. 
 
 Thefe obfervations will alfo hold good with refpeft to 
 little abrupt prominences, or fwells, in ornamented grounds J 
 which (if they mud be tampered with) would receive more 
 improvement from being encircled with an affortment of 
 fhrubs, over whofe tops the crowns of the hills (either plain 
 or terminated with fome agreeable eredtion of ftone) might 
 be fairly feen, than from a few large trees, planted, as we 
 often find, on their fummits. For where thefe fwells are 
 pretty frequent (as they moftly are in uneven countries) art 
 is better applied in lowering them, as it were to the eye, than 
 in giving them real additional height. 
 
 As to avenues of tall trees, they have certainly a noble 
 effeft for a private walk, or the firft part of an approach to 
 a gentleman's feat. But, feen from diftant eminences, they, 
 often betray a good deal of the formality of a common fence*^ 
 
 To clofe the fnbjedl; with a maxim or two more. Keep 
 all large trees at a good diftance from every neat-looking 
 houfe*. Always confider extcnfive unevenly-bounded fo- 
 
 V 3 refts 
 
 * Refpecfting houfa I would juft obfeive, by the bye, that to any per-> 
 fon, fave a native inured to them, buildings of blue rag without mortar 
 have a very mean and deprefling look, and that, if it fall conveniently 
 within reach, the common lough-caft of limeftone countries has the 
 moft neat and chearful appearance of any outfide finifli, of^n eafy expeiicc, 
 and of eafy managemenw 
 
394 ADDENDA. 
 
 refts to have an infinitely better effedl in a landfcape, tha« 
 
 aa equal quantity of trees difperfed over it in crowded for- 
 mally-ioclofed patches. And, above all things, never forget 
 the fupetldtive beauty vphich (for a near view) may be given 
 to a park, farm, or cultivated country, by fingle trees, 
 lightly and irregularly placed out of the hedge-rows. 
 
 The bounds of this article will not admit of more than 
 a few leading remarks on this fubjift; but I fancy if the 
 above hints were obferved they would be fufficient, under 
 the influence of tafte, for the intended purpofe. And 
 though they are thrown out more particularly with a view 
 to one part of the country included in tin's tour, yet it is 
 all fo much alike, in feveral refpetts, that they might be at- 
 tended to with the fame advantage in every other. And were 
 thefe ideas verified, J flatter myfelf this northern diftridl 
 would be worthy of beirig termed the Britifh Arcadia, and 
 exhibit, nearly to the utmott pitch of the poet's fancy, 
 
 " An ample theatre of fylvan grace.'* 
 
 Mafon's EngUJh garden. 
 
 This to the more wealthy of its inhabitants. To the 
 more humble I will juft fubjpin a finifhing word. 
 
 That you are placed in one of the moft beautiful diftrifts 
 fn the kina;dom, the number of its vifitors of all ranks con- 
 ftantiy telUfy ; and you will fee it is one purpofe of this 
 book to make It ftill more known. And if you be not the 
 happieft people, the fault mufl: be in yourfelves ; fince nature 
 has bountifully befl:owed upon you every efTential requifite 
 of enjoymefit. Be therefore content to purfue your in- 
 nocent, though humble vocations, without letting a wifli 
 wander beyond your peaceful vales ; and now and then turn 
 your thoughts towards thole particulars which annually 
 bring among you fo many wealthy and refpeftable vifitors. 
 •Keep your highways in good order (for, as obferved before, 
 
 their- 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 thfelr beauty is effential to rural beauty*.) Preferve your 
 native modefty, and never let envy mar your civility. When 
 you prune a fence joining to a public road, put the branches 
 where they can be no annoyance f, and then, as you are 
 already exemplary in many moral virtues, you u'ill fet a 
 pattern of rural decency worthy of the imitation of feveraj 
 politer parts of the kingdom. 
 
 * The great advantage that any town receives in appearance, merely 
 from the letters on the various fignh &c. being elegantly done, is very 
 evident. And were the Jifiger-pofis on the roads executed with proper 
 tafte, they might be made as ornamental as they are ufeful; and hersce 
 yield due credit to the public-fpirit of the townfhips to which they 
 belong, inftead of being thought (as they often are at prefent) laincn- 
 ♦able indications of their ignorance and poverty. 
 
 -J- It may alfo be here proper to remind the hufbandmen and farmer* 
 «f another flovenly pradlice they are frequently guilty of in moft coun- 
 tries ; I mean the cuftom of throwing Jior.es, weeds, and other kinds of 
 rubbifh, from their fields, upon the face of the roads, with no more re- 
 gard to the feemlinefs of its appearance than to the moral honefly of - 
 the deed. If they cannot comprehend that they have no more right to 
 make ufe of the roads for this purpofe than a neighbour's field, and, 
 that, though generally connived at, the praftice is wrong, the furveyors 
 would do very well to teach them this decent piece of knowledge by 
 Ihe proper feverities of the law. 
 
 V 4 ARTICLE 
 
296 ADDENDA, 
 
 ARTICLE IX. 
 
 ACCOUNT OF 
 
 ENNERDALE. 
 
 IN a ride from Ktfwick to Ennerdale, the mountains, 
 between whofe bafe an irregular , avenue opens for the 
 curious tourilt, are more variegated than thofe in other re- 
 gions of this little world of wonder?. In the courfe of ten 
 minutes travelling, he will behold the moll: beautiful verdure 
 climbing to the fummit of one, a bufliy wood creeping to 
 the top of another, and the moft tremendous fragments of 
 rock fcovvlirig from the. front of a third. The Pillar chal- 
 lenges particular notice. 
 
 If a tranfient ftorm difturb, or intercept the view, which 
 frequently happens in the fereneft days of fummer, the ap- 
 pearance is not only awful but pleafing ; and the traveller 
 will frequently behold a tempeft, without feeling it. The 
 commotion is far above him ; and, where he treads, all fs 
 calm, folemn, and filent. As he approaches the vale of 
 Ennerdale, in whofe bofom one of the moft enchanting of 
 the lakes is feated, he will find the rugged fcenerv of the 
 country gradually refining, and as he winds round the foot 
 of the Pillar, he will difcover a vifta which cannot fail to 
 llrike the moft indifferent obfervcr with aftoniftiment and 
 pleafute. 
 
 The mountains, which ferve to heighten this fcene and 
 enhance its furprife, are Stye-head, Honifter-crag, Waftdale, 
 the Pillar, and Red-pike. The Liza waters the bafe of the 
 
 latt«r 
 
ADDENDA. 297 
 
 latter, and on its margin lies an even, level road, not formed 
 by the hand of man, but prefenting the appearance of a 
 pavement to the eye, whofe view, though not bounded by 
 any of the towering ohjtfts already mentioned, muft reft 
 on the verdant ifland of Giilerthwaite, whofe romantic fi- 
 tuation mufl: be fcen ; defcription cannot furniftv an idea 
 of its beauty. 
 
 An eflayill, in the provincial paper of this country, 
 "fpeaking of this place, fnys, " It forms apifture fuch as the 
 canvas never prelented ; it embraces a variety fo diftributed 
 as no pencil can ever imitate. No defigner in romance 
 ever allotted fuch a refidence to his Fairy inhabitants. I 
 bud almort faid no reclufe over wooed religion in fuch a 
 
 ble{red retirement " " The genius of Ovid would have 
 
 transformed the moll favoured of his heroes into a river, 
 and poured his waters into the channel of the Liza, there 
 to wander by the verdant bounds of Giilerthwaite ; the fweet 
 reward of palriotifm and virtue,'* 
 
 Giilerthwaite is not, however, an ifland, though almoft 
 as much contrail ed in the landfcape as land with water. 
 It is a patch of enclofed, and apparently highly-cultivateci 
 ground, on a ftony defart of immeafurable extent ; for the 
 mountains on each fide of it are the moft barren in their 
 afpeft, and continue that appearance till their heads mix 
 with the horizon. There are two decent farm-houfes o» 
 the enclofure, and, from the ferpentine traft of the valley, 
 no other habitation of man is vifible. 
 
 - From Giilerthwaite, the road already briefly defcribcd 
 (and which a very little indiiftry might make convenient for 
 moft occafions) leads towards the pride of the valley, once 
 the feat of power and fplendour, of which fome faint remains 
 are yet to be traced. The lake of Ennerdale appears in 
 view. To the left, a majeftic wood, rifing gradually up 
 the fide of Cold-fell, from the oppofite fliore of the water, 
 
 imparts 
 
298 ADDENDA. 
 
 imparts the moft graceful ornament to the entrance into a 
 region perfeaiy different from the laft. A fhort turn to 
 the right lays the whole lake and valley open to the view, 
 and Herd-houfe prefents his tawny front, as Regent of the 
 fcene. The furniture of the lake (if the expreffion may 
 be allowed) is totally changed. On the traveller's fide 
 (the eaft) the farms are ftretched out, and exhibit a verdure 
 feldom feen in the molt fertile parts of this kingdom ; and 
 in a compafs of a few miles, the number of fmall tenements^ 
 fcem to fay with Goldfmith, 
 
 ** Here ev'ry rood maintains its man.** 
 
 On the oppofite fhore of this little ocean (which is fre- 
 quently fecn vexed with little ftorms of fhort duration) the 
 mountain towers with great dignity; neither terrible nor 
 inviting in its afpeft ; but fuited to the feienity of the fpot, 
 which is calculated to infpire fentiments at once fublime and 
 chcarful. 
 
 The language of poetry never applied " The clear mirror 
 •f the Jlood^' with greater propriety than a defcription of 
 this lake would adopt it on many occafions; the extent of 
 the water is particularly calculated, with the height of the 
 adjoining mountain, to produce the moft aftonifhing re- 
 fledlion from its furface ; and the fituation of the neigh- 
 bouring mountains occafion fuch frequent changes of the 
 atmofphere, in the courfe of a fummer's day (and at no 
 other feafon, it is prefumed, thefe parts are vifited by ftran« 
 gers) that the tourift will hardly be difappointed in viewing 
 the pidure in all its great variety of light and (hade. 
 
 ARTICLE 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 ARTICLE X. 
 
 SPECIMENS OF 
 THE CUMBERLAND DIALECT. 
 
 Thefe are taken from the poems of the ingenious and modcft 
 Rllph ; an aurhor of fome eftimation in thofe parts, and 
 whofe paftorals in particular are admired by all judges, 
 for their fxafk delineation (after the beft claffic models) 
 of the language and manners of his ruftic countrymeft. 
 
 HARVEST; 
 
 OR, 
 
 THE BASHFUL SHEPHERD. 
 A PASTORAL. 
 
 IN THE CUMBERLAND DIALEGT: 
 
 WHEN welcome rain the weary reapers drOTC 
 Beneath the fhelter of a neighbouring grove, 
 Robin, a love-fick fwain, lagg'd far behind, 
 Nor fecm'd the weight of falling fhow'rs to miad ; 
 A diftant, folitary (hade he fought, 
 And thus difclob'd the troubles of his thought. 
 
 Ay, ay, thur drops may cuil my out-fide heat, 
 Thur callar blafts may wear the boilcn fweat ; 
 But my het bluid, my heart aw* in a bruil, 
 Nor callar blafts can wear, nor drops can cuil. 
 
 Here, 
 
 GLOSSARY. 
 
 Thur, thefe. cuil. cool, caller, cold, wear, cod or aUay, bo^D,* boi&pig'. 
 ^t, hot. bluid, blood, aw', all. bruil, broil. 
 
cjoo ADDENDA. 
 
 Here, here it was (a wae light on the pleace) 
 'At firft I gat a gliff o' Betty's feace : 
 Blyth on this trod the fmurker tripp'd, and theer 
 At the deail-head unluckily we fhear ; 
 Hcedlefs I glira'd, nor could my een command, 
 'Till gaih the fickle went into my hand : 
 Down hell'd the bluid ; the fhearers aw' braft out 
 In fweels of laughter ; Betty luik'd about ; 
 Reed grew my fingers, reeder far my feace ; 
 What cou'd I de in feck a difpert keafe? 
 
 Away I fleeng'd, to grandy meade my mean. 
 My grandy (God be wud her, now (he's geane) 
 Skilfu' the guflien bluid wi' cockwebs ftaid ; 
 Then on the fair an healen plaifter laid ; 
 The healen plaifter eas'd the painful fair, 
 The arr indeed remains, but neathing mair. 
 
 Not fae the other wound, that inward fmart. 
 My grandy cou'd not cure a bleedin heart ; 
 I've bworn the bitter torment three lang year, 
 And aw my life-time mun be fworc'd to bear, 
 'Lefs Betty will a kind phyfician pruive ; 
 For nin but fhe has flcill to medcin luive. 
 
 But how fhou'd honeft Betty give relief? 
 Betty's a parfet ftranger to mv grief : 
 
 - Oft 
 
 GLOSSARY. 
 
 Wac, woe. pleace, place, 'at, that. glifF, a tranfient view, feace, face, 
 trod, foot-patlv fmurker, fmiter. theer, there, deail-head, a narrow plat 
 of ground in a common field, (he. r, reaped. gUm'd, looked alkance. eenj 
 eyes, gafli, to cut. hell'd, poured . 'aw, ail. braft, burft. fweels, fweils or 
 burfts. luik'd, looked, reed, red. reeder, redder, feace, face, de, do. feck, 
 fuch. keafe, cafe, fleeng'd, went creepingly away, grandy, grandmother! 
 xheade, made, mean, moan, wud, with, geane, gone, guflien, guftiing. 
 bluid, blood, cockwebs, cobwebs, fair, fore, healen, healing, arr, fear 
 or mark, neathing, nothing, mair, more, fae, fo. bworn, born, lang, 
 long, mun, muft. fworc'd, forc'd. pruive, prove, nin, none, luive, love- 
 parfet, perfeft. , : 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 301 
 
 Oft I've refolv'd my ailment to explain ; 
 Oft I've refolv'd indeed, — ^but all in vain : 
 A fpringin blnfh fpread fait owr aither cheek, 
 Down Robin luik'd, and deuce a word cou'd fpeak. 
 
 Can I forget that neet ? (I never can) 
 Wi en on the clean fweep'd hearth the fpinnels ran. 
 Ti.e lafTes drew their line wi' bufy fpeed ; 
 The lads as bufy, minded every thread. 
 When fad !. the line fae flender Betty drew, 
 Saap went the thread, and down the fpinnel flew 5 
 T.) me it meade — the lads began to glop — 
 What cou'd I de ? I mud, mud take it up ; 
 I tuik it up, and (what gangs pleaguy hard) 
 E'en reach'd it back without the fweet reward, 
 
 O laftin ftain, even yet it's cith to treace, 
 A guilty confcience in my blufhen feace : 
 I fain wad wefli it out, but never can ; 
 Still fair it bides, like bluid of facklcfs man. 
 
 Nought fae was Wully bafhfu' — -WuUy fpy'd 
 A par of fcilTars at the lafs's fide ; 
 Thar lows'd, he fleely drop'd the fpinnel down — - 
 And what faid Betty ? — Betty ftruive to frown j 
 Up flew her hand to foqfe the cowren lad, 
 But ah ! I thought it fell not down owr fad : 
 What foUow'd I think mickle to repeat. 
 My teeth aw' watter'd then, and waiter yet. 
 
 E'ee 
 
 GLOSSARY. 
 
 Sprlngen, fpringlng. owr, over, aither, either, luik'd, look'd. neet, 
 night, fpinnels, fpindles. wi', with, fae, fo. meade, made, glop, ftare. de, 
 do. mud, mufl:. tak, take, tnik, took, gangs, goes, pleaguy, plaguy, 
 laften, lafting. elth, eafy. treace, trace, blufhen, blulhing. feace, face, 
 wad, wou'd. wefli, wafti. bides, abides, bluid, blood, facklefs, innocent, 
 fae, fo. WuUy, Willy, par, pair, thar, them, bws'd, loos'd. fleely, flyly. 
 fpinnel, fpindle. ftruive, ftrove. cowren, crouching, owr, •Ver. mickle^ 
 imuch. aw', all. watter'd, water'd. 
 
$C1 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 E'en wecl is he 'at ever he was bworn ! 
 He's free frae aw' this bitterment and fcworn. 
 What mun I ftill be fafh'd wl' Itiaglen-fheep, 
 Wi' far fetch'd fighs, and things 1 faid a-flcep; 
 Still (hamfully left fnafflen by my fell, 
 And flill, ftill dogg'd wi' the damn'd neame o' mellf 
 
 Whare's now the pith (this luive ! the deuce ga' wi't !) 
 The pith I ftiew'd whene'er we ftruive to beat ; 
 When a lang Iwonin through the cworn I meade, 
 And buftlin far behind the leave furvey'd. 
 
 Dear heart ! that pith is geane, and comes nae mair, 
 'Till Betty's kindnefs fall the lofs repair ; 
 And (he's net like (how fud fhe r) to be kind, 
 'Till I have freely fpoken out my mind, 
 'Till I have learnt to feace the mpiden clean, 
 Oil'd ray flow tongue, and edg'd my flieepifh een. 
 
 A buik theer is — a bulk — the neame — fljam fawt s 
 Something o' compliments, I think, they caw't ; 
 'At meakes a clownifh lad a clever fpark, 
 
 0 hed I this ! this buik wad de my wark ; 
 And I's refolv'd to hav't, whatever't coft ; 
 My flute — for what's my flute if Betiy's loft? 
 But if fae bonny a lafs but be my btide, 
 
 1 need not any comfort lait beflde. 
 
 Farewell 
 
 GLOSSARY. 
 
 Weel, well, 'at, that, bworn, born, frae, from, fcworn, fcorn. mun, 
 inufl. fafh'd, troubled, wi', wi;h. ftraglen, ftraggling. fhamfully, fhame- 
 fuUy. fnafflen, fauntering. fell, felf. neame, name, o' mtll, of the h,nd- 
 moft. [mell a beetle.] whare's, where's. luive, love, ga' Wi't, go with it. 
 ftniive, flrove. lang, long, lownin, lane, cworn, ccm. meade, made, 
 bufllin, buftling. leave or lave, all the refl. geane, gone, nea mair, ne 
 more. faD, fhall. fud, fhou'd. feace, face, een, eyes, buik, book, thecr, 
 there, neame, name, fliam faw't, fhanie befall it. caw't, call it. 'at 
 meakes, that makes, hed, had. wad, wou'd. wark, wojk. I's, I'm. bav'% 
 iiave it. whatever't} whatever it. fae, fo. iait, ieek. 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 Farewell my flute then yet or Carlifle fair ; 
 When to the ftationer's I'll ftright repair, 
 And bauldly for thur compliments enquear ; 
 Care I a fardin, let the 'prentice jeer. 
 
 That dune, a handfome letter I'll indite, 
 Handfome as ever country lad did write ; 
 A letter 'at fall tell her aw' I feel, 
 And aw' my wants without a blufh reveal. 
 
 But now the clouds brek off, and fineways rosf 
 Out frae his flielter lively luiks the fun. 
 Brave hearty blafts the droopin barley dry. 
 The lads are gaen to Ihear — and fae mun L 
 
 GLOSSARY. 
 
 Stright, flreight. bauldly, boldly, thur, thefc. enquear, enquiw. fardl% 
 farthing, dune, done, 'at fall, that (hall, aw', all. brek, break, finewayj, 
 fundry ways, frae, from, luiks, looks, droopin, droopinj. gaep, gon«* 
 fcear, reap, fae mun. fo muft. 
 
 HORACE, Book IL Ode 7. ' 
 
 TRANSLATED IN THE CUMBERLAND DIALEC-^ 
 
 THE fnaw has left the fells, and fled. 
 Their tops i' green the trees hev' cied. 
 The grund wi' findry flowers is fawn ; 
 And to their flint the becks are fawn : 
 Nor fear the nymphs and graces mair 
 To dance it in the meadowa b»rc. 
 
 GLOSSARY. 
 
 Snaw, fnow. fells, mountains, i'green, in green, hev' cled, have thi. 
 ^und, ground, wi', with, findry, fundry. fawn, fown. ftint, ufual nsea- 
 fure. becks, rivukts or fmafl brooks, fawn, faU'n. more. 
 
304 ADDENDA. 
 
 The year 'at flips fae raft away, 
 ' Whifpeis we mun not think to ftay : 
 The fpring fuin thows the winter froft, 
 To meet the fpring does fimmer poft, 
 Frae fimmer, autumn clicks the hauld. 
 And back at yence is winter cauld. 
 Yit muins ofF-hand meake up their lofi; 
 But fuin as we the watter crofs, 
 To Tullus great, iEneas guid, 
 We're duft and fliadows wuthout bluid. 
 And whae, Torquatus, can be fvvorn 
 *At thame abuin 'ill grant to- m worn ? 
 Leeve than ; what's war't i' murry chear 
 Frae thanklefs heirs is gitien clear. 
 When death, my friend, yence ligs ye faft. 
 And Minus juil your duim has paft. 
 Your reace, and wit, and worth 'ill mak 
 But a peer (hift to bring you back. 
 Diana ((he's a goddefs tee) 
 Gets not Hippolitus fet free ; 
 And, Thefeus, a^'' that ftrength of thine, 
 Can never brek Pirithous' chyne. 
 
 GLOSSARY. 
 
 'At flips, that flideSi fae, fo. mun not, muft rot. fuin, foon. thows^ 
 thaws, fimmer, fummer. frae fimmer, from fummer. clicks, caches or 
 fnatches away, hauld, hold, yence, once, cauld, cold, yit, yet. muins, 
 moons, meake, make, fuin, foon, watter, water, guid, good, wuthout 
 bluid, without blood, whae, who. 'at thame abuai, that them above, 
 'ill, will, to-mworn, to-morrow, leeve than, live thtn. war't, l.i.d lUt or 
 expended, i' murry, in merry, frae, irom. gitter, got or gotten, yence, 
 •nee. ligs, lays. Minus, Minos, duim, doom, reace, ractr. 'ill mak, will 
 HfWKe. peer, poor, tee, too. aw', all. brck, break, chyne chain. 
 
 ARTICLE 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 ARTICLE XI. 
 
 SOME REMARKS 
 
 kESPECTING THE PROVINCrAL WORDS, &C. USED BY THE 
 COMMON PEOPLE IN THE LIMITS OF THIS TOUR. 
 
 ^npHE language of any people, however refined it may 
 ± become in time, has undoubtedly atifen from fome 
 rude original, and he, therefore, who wifhes thoroughly to 
 underftand its genius and primary elements, mull, if poffible, 
 make himfelf acquainted with its formation in its earlie'l fta 
 ges. Now this knowledge is often beft acquired from the 
 mouths of the vulgar, who, living far removed from refine- 
 ment, have probably retained a dialedt nearly the fame with 
 that which refulted from the laft cafual admixture it under- 
 went among their ruftic anceftors; and which in England waa 
 the union of the Saxon with the ancient Britifli. On this ac- 
 count the critic in our language would at prefent receive the 
 beft information concerning its principles and' charader, by 
 ftudying the provincial dialeds of the times in fome of the 
 moft retired diftrids. And as they are now fuffering a daily 
 change from the rapid progrefs made of late in every branch 
 of pohtenefs, it is to be wilhcd, that for this end our pro- 
 vincial h.ttorians had carefully attended to and preferved the 
 peculiar terms and phrafcs of the vulgar dialers, current in 
 their rcfpedive divifions*. Particularly this was to be wifhed 
 
 ^ of 
 
 fev ral jud,c,ous fnends) that the ingenious m thefe parts would imme- 
 d a tely fe about making coUeftions of the oUeft ^oJ,r.A peculiar fZ.. 
 ufed by the.r common neighbours, and preferve them in cafe fome learned 
 and properly-quahfied perfon Ihould hereafter undertake to give us a 
 
 hTSh f "rr' T^'^""^^"' '--^^^^^^'^ whom 
 
 «hLh h , , ^'"^'''^ ^""'^ ^ w«^k the lifts of words 
 
 which has lately appeared in the 7.«. to the Ca.., might be a beginning! 
 
3o5 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 of the counties of Weftmorland and Cumberland, where 
 
 the com.non Tpeech at this dav (b.. fides many obfolete words 
 uf (1 by our elder poets, from Chaucer down to Spencer, &c.) 
 contnios feveral unnoticed roots and elements of derivation. 
 Ttu fe dial.as are much difrert-nt in mnny words from the 
 broad Lancann'-e r a'.d w. re they colkaed and digefted in 
 feme fnch nHOiicr a6 the fpecimens of an Fnghpj- BrUjfh-DtC'- 
 tiovary, givrn 'is b\ the ingenious and learned author of the 
 BiPory ,/ /. nc'^fter, and his cr-mpU'ted, 1 am fatisfied thefe 
 v- ; ' . :i Lht afli iance of the Welch, ancient Cornifh, Ifl- 
 a.i'iiC, and the remains of otiier Gothic and Teutonic lan- 
 gna_r!;cs, would throw an un^'-xpca. d light on the bafes, ftruc- 
 ture, and analogies of tuc Englifh tongue. 
 
 As a {light fpecimen of this, I will put down the derivation 
 of a few words, rf which we Hnd little in our diftionaries, 
 or little fatisfiaory. Many more might be given from a 
 curforv recolkaion, but we muft not forget the chief intent 
 of ihis vr.v.i. ac, and that S'wvfi's S'lfcourje on the antiquity of the 
 Env":lh iorjgiie is perh [is in more hands than may know the 
 dn ' limits' of its ridicule. And fhould thefe etymologies 
 appear to fome more whimfical than jull, it fhould be remem- 
 bered 
 
 There are alfo in thefe parts (as m every other part alike retired) fe- 
 
 vn i . ..r.es of apparit.ons, witches, fairies, &c feveral traditionary 
 
 t <n •ftnaje occurrences, —and many compofitions of rural bards, 
 u--r the titles oi flap, mafking (on^^ Sec. which if colleaed as 
 
 r.uch «s pofliblf m their provincial drefs, and preferved in fome public 
 library, before they are likely to be loft in the more engaging amufe- 
 ments of ihefe improving times, might be of confiderable ufe to the fu- 
 ture gramarian, hiitonan, or inveftigator of the progrefs of fociety and 
 manne.s. The poet too, might from thefe traditionary narratives, and 
 fuperftitious ideas, ?ain more materials for fome provinces of his fanciful 
 art, than from the richeft invention: for it is not eafy to fuppofe he can 
 for.^ for huufelf as ftnking a combination of events, and aflbciation of 
 id^as, as may have been furaflied by the accidents of time, and the 
 fruiMuhiefs of fuperfti^on; and on the account of which linhng«ef:, 
 t . ie fire-fide tales have obtained 10 long and general a tradition as nriany 
 of them can boaft-But I am content with barely throwing out a hints 
 which if thought worth notice wiii not need any farther enbrgement. 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 bered that they appeal to the only kind of evMence of which 
 they aie capable; that they caruiot all yield the fume (V.- 
 gree of conviclion, and that this fort of enquiry is i m-A^er of 
 
 felf-perfuajion from a view of ciiciiirftaaces, and not J: cL.:iOn' 
 
 Jlrative proof ixovcL undeniable principles. 
 
 Defs, in this vulgar dialeft, is to put in ouier. Hrnce a 
 writing-dejh, in which are contained little cells, and oUk r 
 conveniences of arrangement, has its name. D\j^<lj ' 
 fequently properly defs-Jl ff, or a flafF or rod on vvhicu me 
 flax is fitly difpofed for fpinning. It is alfo probable that 
 from this idea we have the word dref, both as applied to tlie 
 perfon and things, as drejfmg of viduals, &c. 
 
 The endeavour of children to get upon any thing, is in 
 this country termed to clever. Hence the phrafe of a clever 
 fellcw primarily means one who is capable of iurmountir.g 
 any thing he undertakes 
 
 Kink, is to be thrown Into the convulfions which we obfe"'e 
 in the higheft degree of coughing or laughter. Hence ti.e 
 cough in children which always puts on this flraineJ aj-pear- 
 ance is called the Kink cough. From an ignorance of this 
 etymology, though with fome reference to the found, we 
 find the word wrote chin, or king-cough, Alfo the loops whi . h 
 twifted threads (or hairs for filhing-lines) are apt to run iuto 
 are fometimes called kinks. From which it appears in both 
 cafes, that an idea of convuljion is implied in the term kink. 
 
 Wee, in Cumberland, fignifies little. Hence ivevel (th^ in- 
 fedl in corn) is formed of ivee and evil, and means, the little 
 evil. Wee combined with edge makes ivedgcy a well-known 
 inftrument with a fmall or thin edge. 
 
 Hee, is the term for high. Hence hedge is from hec-e lge^ 
 or high edge. At firft this fence would be made of earth and 
 ftones, and afterwards quick fences ferving the fame purpofe 
 would have the fame name. 
 
 X 2 Any 
 
3o8 ADDENDA. 
 
 Any thing that moves on a pivot (as the part of the loom 
 that is palled by the hand among the threads) is called ^Jlay, 
 Hence a hammer faftened upon a fhaft to move in this man- 
 ner is called a Jledge from Jlay and edge. It is not fo clear 
 that/f./jTf is from fea-edge, but the verb to Jlay^ comes plainly 
 from the like idea of fnving'ing the arm. 
 
 Doy in thefe parts is dee or due. Hence Devil is formed 
 oidee-evU. In like manner, the true original meaning of fnivel 
 and dnvel (from whence we have the opprobrious terms of 
 fnlvekr and driveler) may be eafily gained, 
 
 When cabbins ferved for houfes, what they put over the 
 entrance to keep out the weather, was called due o'er, that is, 
 the thing to do-over. Hence the origin of the word f/oor, 
 .both as an opening and as an inftrument. 
 
 Heci, is a little gate made of rails (generally pointed and 
 upright) for feveral domeftic purpofes. Whence we have 
 the term had for an implement ufed in digging. The long 
 pointed feathers on a cock's neck are alfo on this account 
 called hackles. Hence the name of hackle for the well-known 
 inftrument for dreffing flax, and hence alfo the etymology of 
 the word icicle, which is evidently ice-hackle, or a long pointed 
 piece of ice, and which conveys a very charafterillic idea. 
 
 Arr (whence fcarr) figuifies a mark, made by the aftion 
 of iomething upon another. Hence the common term arr. 
 ^4^,- means the edge of any thing that is Hable to hurt or ^zrr. 
 But as a final fyllable the term is of the moft ftriking ufe in 
 explaininjr ^Nw6s.— Wizard hence evidently means one marked 
 wit!i nvifdom; Godard whh goodnefi ; haggard, with the fhri- 
 veiled, &c. look of a hag; drunkard, with drink; Jluggard, with 
 Jhth; mujlard, with mujl ; dotard, with dotage; Pdchard, with 
 riches; coivard, pei haps with the proverbial timidity oi a coiv, 
 and query if auh^nrd, be not from oak-ard i. e. one marked 
 with the ffiff', rujly look of an oak? \ 
 
 Hence 
 
ADDENDA. 309 
 
 Hence too the eruptive diforder which appears on the 
 fl<in, like marks made by the fcratching of a cat, is vulgarly 
 called cat-arrles ; and query if the term harroiv be not fiotn 
 the marks, or arrs, made in rows, by that inftrument, /. e an 
 Mrr-row f 
 
 Kelter, or Jhelter, (a word almoft forgot) means order as to 
 arrangement, ox > condition as to body. Hence the phrale of 
 people running helter Jhelter, means running in defpite of all 
 Older; helter order meaning hang order, as we lay hang fur- 
 row, &c. 
 
 Stirrup, is from Stay-rope, a rope with a noofe at the end, 
 fattened to the faddle to put the foot in, in which form lome 
 old drawings reprefent it. 
 
 Healnt, or heam, is a Saxon word for flratv, though now 
 out of ufe, and is here the prefent vulgar pionnnciatiop of 
 home. From this circumftance it is not improbable but that 
 ftraw, which once conftituted the molt general bed, might 
 give the name to the place of domeftic repofe, by the fame 
 figure that has denominated our ordinary repads meals, from 
 the meal that was heretofore the general food, and as board- 
 ing and tabling mean the gratuity of fo much per week for 
 victuals eat on boards and tables, &c, — Hence it is eafv to 
 fee hamlet means a lot or parcel of homes ; and hence is had 
 perhaps the term ham for the wooden collar now put on rhe 
 neck of a cart hoife, from its conneftion with a bofs, or f up- 
 port, which it is well known was not long fince in feveral 
 places made of Jlraiv, called a barrdoam. 
 
 Stee, is the vulgar name here for ladder, and Jleel for Jlyle, 
 Hence the idea of fomething high or upright, which is con- 
 tained in thefe vfoxdis, Jleep, Jlep,Jeeple. 
 
 Hofe, is an old Furnefs-fell word for the throat ; and the 
 Oinvas pipe with which failors draw water from their cafl<s, 
 
 &c. 
 
3IO ADDENDA. 
 
 &e. is called a hofe. From this it feems not improbable, that 
 Jiochings have been called hofe on account of their throat-like 
 appearance. 
 
 Cap or cob, means head, majler, top. Sec. Hence the 
 common word coliby means heady, tyrannica/, and hence cob- 
 nut (or job-nut J means a ilrift for maftery between the con- 
 tendin(j nuts. 
 
 Aiter, it is well known fignifics blood or gore, and hence 
 we have a very charaderiftic meaning in the name of atter- 
 cob given in thefe parts to the fpider ', i. e a bloody tyrant. 
 Mr. Whitaker derives this word from the Welch term Adyr- 
 cop fignifying the top-itife£l, in alliifion to its common refi- 
 dence in the tops of houfes, but I imagine the above is the 
 more likely etymology, as it is more fignificant of its fan- 
 guinary manner of living. 
 
 Scale, means to fpread or difperfe abroad. It is ufed in the 
 following paffage of Shulcfpears Coriolanus, and, after puz- 
 zling the former editors, was only difcovered by Mr. Stevens 
 in the lall edition. 
 
 : 1 fliall tell you 
 
 A pretty tale, it may be you have heard it ; 
 But, fince it ferves my purpofe, I will venture 
 To fcaleH a little more. 
 
 Thus much refpefting the tnean'ing of ivords ; what follows, 
 is a concluding remark with regard to found. 
 
 One would think there is fo great a likenefs in the form 
 of thefe originally Saxon or Britifh words, tvound, founds 
 hound, ground, pound, &c. that there could be no variation in 
 the form of pronouncing them, wherever they were all ufed. 
 Yet the word tuound is of late become an exception among 
 the politer pait of the world, who pronounce it 'woondf or in 
 
 fuch 
 
ADDENDA. 311 
 
 fuch a manner as it will not rhyme with any of the other 
 words. This mode of fpcaking the word under confideration 
 is precifely the vulgar one ufed in feme of thefe horthern parts 
 
 where they call found, foond — hounds hoond — pounds poond 
 
 ground^ groond^ &c. in which pronunciation, though we can- 
 not think there is much beauty, there is undoubtedly a be- 
 coming uniformity worthy of imitation. 
 
 It is not eafy to fee on what account this word ivound waa 
 fingled out for the favourite alteration, but it is eafy to fee 
 that ics new found will injure the rhymes of many of our 
 beft poets, particulaily Pope, who always confiders wound as 
 rhyming with any of the other words above-mentioned. 
 This hint may perhaps give a fouth-country perfon, a dif- 
 ferent idea than he might have entertained of the propriety 
 of the innovation in qiieftion : for certainly nothing ought 
 to be adeptt^d into a language which is unneceffary contrary 
 to its analogy and fundamental laws> 
 
 FINIS. 
 
LATELT PUBLISHED. 
 
 I. 
 
 A TOUR TO THE CxWES, 
 
 IN THE ENVIRONS Of 
 
 INGLEBOROUGH AND SETTLE, 
 /« the Wejl riding of Torhjhire. 
 
 Wtih fome Phllofophical CnnjeAures on the Deluge, Re- 
 marks on the Origin of Fountains, and Oblervaiions 
 on the Afcent and Dtfcent of Vapours, occafioned by 
 Fadls peculiar to the places vifited. Alfo a large Glof- 
 fary ot old and original Words made ufe of in common 
 Converfation in the North of England. In a Letter to 
 a Friend. The fecond Edition, with large Additions. 
 Price ij. 6d. 
 
 II. 
 
 AN ODE 
 
 TO 
 
 THE GENIUS OF THE LAKES 
 
 IN THE NORTH OF ENGLAND. 
 Price 2s, 
 
A LIST OF 
 
 THE VIEWS OF THE LAKES 
 
 In Wejimorland and Cumberland^ 
 By Mr. FARINGTON, 
 
 AND ENGRAVED BY MR. BYRNE, AND OTHERS. 
 
 1. General view of Derwent and Baffenthwaitc waters, 
 from Afhnefs. 
 
 2. View of Skiddaw, and Derwent-water, from Brandc 
 low-woods. 
 
 3. View of Lowdore water-fall. 
 
 4. View of Grange, in Borrowdale. 
 
 5. View of the lake and vale of Grafmere. 
 
 6. View of Rydal- water. 
 
 7. View of the bridge and town of Kefwick. 
 
 8. View of Brathay-bridge, near Amblefide. 
 
 9. View of the upper end of UUs-water. 
 
 10. View of the lower end of Ulls-water. 
 
 11. View of the palace of Patterdale. 
 
 12. View of Patterdale, from Martindale-fell. 
 
 13. View of the lower water-fall at RydaL 
 
 14. View of Windermere- water, from GiU-head, beW 
 Bownefs. 
 
 15. View from Rydal, looking towards Windermere-water. 
 
 16. View of Amblefide. 
 
 1 7- View acrofs Windermere-water, looking over the great 
 ifland, from the hill above the ferry-houfe. 
 
 1 8. North view on the road leading from Kelwfck to Am- 
 blefide, taken near the fixth mile-ftone, 
 
 19- View looking down Windermerc-w^ter, from above 
 Rayrig. 
 
 20. View of the bridge and part of the village of Rydal. 
 
 The above were lately publifhed by Mr. Byrve, No. 79, 
 Tichfield Street, London;, and fold by Mr. Pennington! 
 Kendal — Price four pounds eight fliillings. 
 
MAY I, 1793. 
 
 IN THE COURSE OF THE PRESENT YEAR 
 WILL BE PUBLISHED, 
 
 A Series of Views of the Lakes, 
 
 IN AQUA-TINTA, 
 Of a proper fize to bind with WeJVs Guide ^ 
 From Drawings by Meffrs. Smith and Emes. 
 
 *^* The Price ivill not exceed one Guinea. 
 
 Subfcribers names are received by Mr. Smith, Bryanftone 
 Street, Portman Square; Mr. Emes. No- i, North Street, 
 Upper Charlotte Street ; Mr, Blamire, Strand; and Mr, 
 Clarke, Bookfellcr, New Bond Street, London ; alfo by 
 Mr. Pennington, Kendal, where Specimens of the Work 
 may be fecn. 
 
CENTER UBKARY 
 
i'i'i'i'S''''!'!'! 
 
 iiiiiiiiiii 
 
 ■'.MM 
 
 i- 
 18