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 % 
 
 
 
 
 
 ► 
 
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 
 
 IN 
 
 DENMARK, 
 
 WITH SCHLESWIG AND HOLSTEIN, 
 
 ANI) 
 
 ICELAND 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2018 with funding from 
 Getty Research Institute 
 
 https://archive.org/details/handbookfortrave00john_32 
 
A 
 
 HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 
 
 IN 
 
 DENMARK, 
 
 WITH 
 
 SCHLESWIG AND HOLSTEIN, 
 
 AND 
 
 ICELAND. 
 
 FIFTH EDITION , REVISED AND ENLARGED. 
 
 WITH MAPS AND PLANS. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 PARIS: GALIGNANI & CO. ; BOYVEAU. 
 COPENHAGEN: JACOB HEGEL (GYLDENDAL). 
 STOCKHOLM: C. E. FRITZE. CHRISTIANIA: BENNETT. 
 1883. 
 
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PREFACE. 
 
 Foe the convenience of travellers, this ‘ Handbook of Den¬ 
 mark’ has been published separately from Norway and 
 Sweden. The General Map includes the railways and roads, 
 carefully marked. 
 
 The Routes are preceded by an introductory sketch of 
 the nature of the country, its attractions for strangers, its 
 products, people, history, and government, together with 
 such practical hints as to books, dress, plan of tour, &c., as 
 are most likely to prove useful to the Traveller on the spot. 
 
 The information contained is for the most part based on 
 personal knowledge of the places described, and every effort 
 has been made to render the book as accurate as possible. 
 Any notes of errors or omissions furnished by travellers from 
 their own experience on the spot, and addressed to the 
 Publisher, will be gratefully welcomed by the Editor. 
 
 Although the Duchies of Schleswig and Holstein, since 
 1864, form part of Germany, yet, as one of the principal 
 routes to Copenhagen traverses them, they are described in 
 connection with Denmark, to which country they formerly 
 belonged, and to which they are closely related in their 
 general character, history, and partly (N. Schleswig) in the 
 nationality of the inhabitants. 
 
 A brief but comprehensive Guide to Iceland, a country 
 more accessible now than formerly, has been added to this 
 Edition, and is the result of experience gained in more than 
 one journey through that Island. 
 
 London , January, 1883. 
 
\/ 
 
 
 
 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 DENMARK, WITH SCHLESWIG AND 
 HOLSTEIN. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. 
 
 1. Money, Measures, Weights, p. 1—2. Travelling Expenses, 2—3. Lan¬ 
 guage, 3—4. Passport, 3— 5. Posting, Railroads, Steamers, 3—6. Inns 
 and Hotel Accommodation, 6—7. Travelling Servants, 7—8. Clothes 
 and Luggage, 7—9. Succinct Account of Denmark, 8—10. Historical 
 Notice, 11—11. Statistics, 19—12. Books, 22—13. Skeleton Tours, 23 
 —14. Serviceable Sentences for Common Use, 24a. 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 *„* The names of places are printed in black only in those routes where they 
 are described. 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 1 London to Copenhagen by 
 
 Lubeck, by Sea and Land 26 
 
 2 London to Copenhagen by 
 
 Hamburg (Altona), Kiel, 
 and Korsor. 28 
 
 3 Rostock to Copenhagen via 
 
 Nykjobing (Nykopen) .. 33 
 
 4 Stettin to Copenhagen.. .. 34 
 
 5 Stralsund to Copenhagen via 
 
 Malmo . 34 
 
 ondon to Copenhagen via 
 Hamburg—Altona, Flens- 
 borg, Kolding, Fredericia, 
 Odense, Nyborg, Korsor, 
 and Roeskilde. 34 
 
 Flensborg to Glucksburg, 
 Sonderborg, Duppel, and 
 the Isle of Ah. 45 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 7 Flensborg to Husum, Ton- 
 
 ning, and The Frisian 
 Islands . 47 
 
 8 Copenhagen (Danish Kjoben- 
 
 havn).49 
 
 9 Sealand and the adjoining 
 
 smaller Islands. 70 
 
 10 Elsinore (Helsingor), Fre- 
 
 deriksborg, and North Sea- 
 land . 73 
 
 11 Copenhagen to Roeskilde, 
 
 Ringsted and Soro .. .. 80 
 
 12 Moen, Falster, Lolland, and 
 
 the South of Sealand .. 85 
 
 13 Island of Bornholm .. .. 89 
 
 14 Fyen . 93 
 
 15 East Jutland . 94 
 
 16 West Jutland .106 
 
viii 
 
 Contents. 
 
 ICELAND. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. 
 
 1. Money Measures, Weights, p. 113—2. Passport, Custom House, 114— 
 3. Means of Communication, Steamers, 114—4. Climate; Time for 
 Visit, 115—5. Travelling in the Interior: Ponies, Guides, 116— 
 6. Outfit: Clothing, Boots, Waterproofs, Tents, Boxes, Provisions, 
 Guns, Fishing-tackle, Sundries, 117—7. Cost of Travelling, 119— 
 8. Farmhouses, Inns, and other Accommodation, 120—9. Books 
 and Maps: Variation of the Compass, 121—10. Historical Notice, 
 122 —11. Language and Literature, 124—12. Statistics, 125 — 
 13. Physical Geography and Geology, 127—14. Shooting, Fishing, 
 Geologising and Exploration, 128—15. Skeleton Tours, 130. 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 1 Leith to Reykjavik, touching 
 
 at the Faroe Islands .. .. 132 
 
 2 Reykjavik, Thingvellir, Gey- 
 
 sirs, Hekla.134 
 
 3 Krisuvik and the S.W. Penin¬ 
 
 sula .139 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 4 Across Iceland from Akureyri 
 
 to Reykjavik .141 
 
 5 North-eastern Iceland and 
 
 Askja.143 
 
 6 The SnaefeUs Jokull and N.W. 
 
 Peninsula.147 
 
 Other Routes.148 
 
 MAPS AND PLANS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Plan of Copenhagen 
 
 .. ..to face 
 
 49 
 
 Plan of Thorvaldsen Museum .. 
 
 .. 
 
 55 
 
 Traveller’s Map of Iceland 
 
 .. ..to face 
 
 113 
 
 General Map of Denmark 
 
 , at end. 
 
DENMARK, 
 
 WITH SCHLESWIG AND HOLSTEIN. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. 
 
 SECT. PAGE 
 
 1. Money, Measures, Weights . 1 
 
 2. Travelling Expenses. 2 
 
 3. Language. 3 
 
 4. Passport . 3 
 
 5. Posting, Railroads, Steamers. 3 
 
 6. Inns and Hotel Accommodation . G 
 
 7. Travelling Servants. 7 
 
 8. Clothes and Luggage . 7 
 
 9. Succinct Account of Denmark. 8 
 
 10. Historical Notice . 11 
 
 11. Statistics . 19 
 
 12. Books.22 
 
 13. Skeleton Tours.23 
 
 14. Serviceable Sentences for common use.24a 
 
 1.—Money, Measures, Weights. 
 
 Money. — The currency of Denmark is based on a decimal system, and 
 is sufficiently simple. The Krone (Is. l^cZ.), and the ore (about one- 
 eighth of a penny), are the units of the system, and the krone contains 
 100 ore. At the usual rate of exchange, 11. sterling is equal to 
 18 kroner. There are gold coins of 10 and 20 kroner ; silver coins of 
 2 and 1 kroner, and of 25 and 10 ore, and copper coins of 5, 2 and 
 1 ore. 
 
 [Denmark .] b 
 
2 § 2. travelling expenses. Denmark. 
 
 Tlieir relative value in French and English money is as follows:— 
 
 
 
 English. 
 
 French. 
 
 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 Francs. 
 
 Gold. 
 
 20 Kroner .. 
 
 .. = 1 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 .. = 28 
 
 
 10 „ 
 
 .. = 0 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 .. = 14 
 
 Silver. 
 
 4 „ 
 
 .. =0 
 
 4 
 
 5 .. 
 
 .. = 5-60 
 
 
 2 „ 
 
 .. = 0 
 
 2 
 
 2§ •• 
 
 .. = 2-80 
 
 
 1 „ 
 
 .. = 0 
 
 1 
 
 n ■■ 
 
 .. = 1-39 
 
 
 25 ore .. 
 
 .. = 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 .. = 0-35 
 
 
 10 .. 
 
 .. = 0 
 
 0 
 
 ii •• 
 
 .. = 0'14 
 
 Two kroner are equal to the old rigsdollar (2s. 3d.). 
 
 Paper currency is largely used. The notes are all issued by the 
 National Bank, which has the monopoly. 
 
 English sovereigns and bank notes are readily changed in all the 
 large towns, and undoubtedly the most convenient form of money for 
 the traveller to take with him is the Bank of England 5?. note. 
 
 In Schleswig and Holstein the German Imperial currency is em¬ 
 ployed, 1 mark is nearly equivalent to an English shilling, and is 
 divided into 100 pfennings. There are gold coins of 20, 10 and 
 5 marks, and the 20 mark piece is of nearly equal value to the English 
 sovereign. A sovereign is really worth 20 m. 43 pf., and a gold 
 Napoleon is worth 16 m. 20 pf. 1 krone is equal to 1T3 mark ; 
 15J reals; 35 kopeks; 0'27 American cents; and 0'66 Austrian 
 gulden. 
 
 2.— Travelling Expenses. 
 
 Of course the expenses of a tour in any country depend to a great 
 extent on the tastes and habits of the traveller, but it may be stated 
 generally that travelling is expensive in Denmark. The krone fre¬ 
 quently goes no further than the franc, the drachma, the lira, or the 
 peseta, in their respective countries, although its value is about one- 
 fourth greater. 
 
 Measures .—The Danish foot is, like the English, divided into 12 
 inches, but is a trifle longer, viz. about equal to 12-| English inches. 
 Two Danish feet make an ell (Alen). The Danish mile is 24,000 feet 
 Danish, and consequently rather more than 4$ English miles. 
 
 Weights .—1 lb. (Pund) Danish is equal to 1 lb. 1J oz. avdp. English, 
 and was formerly divided into 32 lod, of which consequently two 
 made an English ounce. The decimal subdivision of the pound has 
 now been introduced, and the use of it is compulsory. It has quite 
 supplanted the old weights. 1 lb. = i a kilogramme = 100 kvint, 
 and 1 kvint = 'Oil lb. avoirdupois. 
 
Denmark. 
 
 § 3. LANGUAGE—§ 5. POSTING, ETC. 
 
 3 
 
 3. —Language. 
 
 The Danish and Norwegian being the same language, though spoken 
 with a little different accent, and a vocabulary and dialogues being 
 more likely to be of use in Norway than in Denmark, they are placed 
 in the Introductory Remarks to The Handbook for Norway, from 
 which the Serviceable Sentences for Common Use, p. 24a, have been 
 taken. Both the Danisli and Swedish languages bear so strong an 
 affinity to the English, that they are not found difficult to acquire. 
 
 In Holstein and the south of Schleswig only German is spoken, and 
 it is understood also in the north of Schleswig, where the Danish pre¬ 
 vails, by the officials of the railways, &c. In Copenhagen, English is 
 spoken in all the principal hotels and shops. 
 
 4. —Passport. 
 
 Passports are not demanded of travellers entering the Danish ter¬ 
 ritory, and Denmark was the first monarchy on the Continent which 
 abolished that time-honoured, but often very inconvenient, institution ; 
 but a passport should always be taken as a means of establishing 
 identity, and for obtaining access to museums, and procuring letters at 
 the post-office. It is also useful sometimes to show to a banker when 
 you desire him to cash a cheque. 
 
 5.—Posting, Railroads, Steamers. 
 
 Posting, or as it is called “ extrapost,” as distinguished from the 
 ordinary or mallepost, is at most places still carried on under the 
 management of Government, and every complaint is therefore promptly 
 attended to. The whole country is provided with a network of ex¬ 
 cellent macadamized high roads, which possess the additional charm of 
 having no toll-bars, excepting only in the immediate neighbourhood of 
 Copenhagen, where a very few of them still survive. Whilst in England 
 so many of the principal roads are constructed by private persons or 
 bodies, they are in Denmark constructed and maintained either by the 
 Government or by the counties or “Amt.” In Copenhagen, however, 
 as well as in Odense and Elsinore, the posting business has been thrown 
 open to private enterprise, and will probably not long survive. As, 
 however, it still exists, we must give some details concerning it. The 
 charge fixed by the tariff of the Royal Extra Post Service, is 3 kr. 30 
 ore per Danish mile for a “ Wienervogn ” or chaise, holding 4 persons 
 inside, with 2 horses, besides from 15 to 30 ore for the ordering of 
 
 b 2 
 
4 § 5. posting, railroads, steamers. Denmark. 
 
 each horse. All that is to be paid is included in a paper called 
 “ Time-seddel,” issued from the post-office. The traveller pays in 
 advance the sum stipulated therein, after which the postillion has no 
 further claim upon him. The paper is then delivered to the postillion, 
 whose duty it is, on arrival at the station where his service ends, to 
 present it again to the traveller, that he may note down the time of 
 arrival, as well as his approval or disapproval of the postillion, and any 
 other observation he may wish to make concerning the service. The 
 extrapost is bound, from 1st of April to 31st of October, to proceed 
 on all chaussees and equally good roads, when the stage is less than 
 4 Danish miles, at the rate of 1 mile in | of an hour ; when the stage 
 is 4 miles, it is to be performed in 3J hours ; when the stage is beyond 
 4 miles, the first mile must be made in f of an hour, and the rest of 
 the journey at the rate of 1 mile in an hour. The postillion is strictly 
 enjoined to be civil and attentive to the travellers, to give assistance, in 
 cases of emergency, in the packing and unpacking of luggage, and is 
 also bound to carry certain tools, in order to be able to remedy any 
 slight accident that might happen on the road. The extrapost is to be 
 on the spot f of an hour after the order for it has been given, and to 
 wait 2 an hour without extra charge. Formerly a complete system of 
 mail-coaches existed for the conveyance of letters and passengers, under 
 the authority and management of the Postmaster-General, and though 
 this is now in many places superseded by railways, it is still the usual 
 means of inland travelling. The mail-coaches are partly closed carriages, 
 called diligences; partly open carriages, called dagvogne. The price of 
 a place in one of the former is 65 ore per Danish mile ; in the second 
 class 52 ore per mile. 30 lbs. of luggage are carried free ; any greater 
 quantity is charged for, but any quantity is carried, subject to certain 
 limits of the size and weight of every package. The porters attached 
 to the post-houses, litsenbroder, are bound to carry the traveller’s 
 luggage, anywhere within town limits, free of charge. 
 
 There are also private omnibuses and “ dagvogne ” in many places, 
 particularly at railway stations, landing-places of steamers, for the con¬ 
 venience of travellers going to neighbouring towns, other stations, &c. 
 The charges in these conveyances vary, but are generally lower than 
 those just mentioned. 
 
 Railways. — The railway system of Denmark is extending rapidly. 
 The first railway built in Denmark Proper was between Copenhagen 
 and Roeskilde on the island of Sealand, which very soon was continued 
 to Korsor on the west coast of Sealand, and from this harbour steamers 
 start twice daily for Kiel, Aarhuus, Nyborg, Flensborg, and other places. 
 In connection with the Korsor Railway, steamers cross the Great Belt 
 
Denmark. § 5. posting, railroads, steamers. 5 
 
 to Nyborg, whence a railway crosses the island of Fyen, via Odense, 
 and brings the travellers to Strib on the narrowest part of the Little 
 Belt, whence a steam-ferry, in communication with the trains, conveys 
 the post and passengers to Fredericia in Jutland. From this point 
 railways branch off both south and north. The southern branch is in 
 direct communication with the railways of Schleswig and Holstein, 
 and this is one of the routes between Hamburg and Copenhagen. The 
 railway to the north from Fredericia traverses the whole length of the 
 peninsula, and, in connection with steamers from Frederikshavn to 
 Gothenburg, establishes a route from Hamburg and the Continent to 
 Sweden and Norway. A branch of this railway connects Aarhuus on 
 the east coast of Jutland with all the west coast, while another 
 branch runs from Skanderborg to Silkeborg, a picturesque neighbour¬ 
 hood in the very heart of Jutland. A third runs from Holding due W. 
 to Esberg, whence steamers ply to Harwich in 36 hours, starting on 
 Wednesdays. Besides the great trunk railway, which traverses the 
 whole kingdom, there are several smaller lines. The North Sealand 
 Railway connects the capital with Elsinore, via Frederiksborg and 
 Fredensborg, with a branch to Klampenborg, and a line runs S. from 
 Roeskilde through Kjoge and Nrestved to Vordinborg and Masnedsund, 
 in connection with a short line on the island of Falster from Orehoved 
 to Nykjobing. Another line runs N.W. to Kallundborg, whence there 
 are steamers daily to Aarhuus; while a line in a N.N.W. direction 
 runs to Frederikssund and Jasgerspriis, a lovely excursion. A short 
 line on the island of Lolland runs from Bandholm to Maribo. The 
 total length of lines is 1800 kilometres or 1116 English miles, about 
 500 of which were constructed between 1864 and 1866 by Messrs. 
 Peto and Brassey. 1530 kilometres of the railways belong to the State. 
 
 Steamboats. —It is a necessary consequence of the natural configura¬ 
 tion of the country that steamers play a great part in the inland traffic, 
 and from Copenhagen a considerable number of boats keep up regular 
 communication with almost every town and harbour of any importance. 
 Those most likely to be of use to English travellers are those which ply 
 in the Sound, between Copenhagen and Malmo, on the opposite coast 
 of Sweden, and on the principal route from Copenhagen to Stockholm, 
 and between Copenhagen, and Elsinore, and Helsingborg, touching at 
 many points along the coast, as well as those which, starting from 
 Copenhagen and bound for the southern islands, touch at the island of 
 Moen. In many places the service of ferries is now performed by 
 steamboats. Complete and reliable information as to travelling in 
 Denmark by railway, post, or steamer, and on telegraphs and letter- 
 post is found in the * Jteiseliste ,’ which is published fortnightly, and 
 
G 
 
 § 6. inns and hotel accommodation. Denmark. 
 
 in Faber’s ‘ Post og Peisehaandbog for Kongeriget Danmark (1 kr.), 
 which is published quarterly, or as often as may be required; it is 
 written in Danish, but with explanations of the terms and abbreviations 
 in English, French, and German. 
 
 Postage. —The inland postage is the same as in England, viz. 8 ore, 
 or about Id., for 3 kvint, or 5 oz. English, but the double postage 
 carries a letter up to i lb. weight. "Within town limits of Copenhagen 
 it is only 4 ore. To England the charge is 20 ore for the same 
 weight. There is a book-post to most other countries at a lower rate, 
 subject to the same conditions as the English. To England the charge 
 is 8 ore, or lc?., for 2 lod Danish (1 oz. English), and anything made 
 of paper may be sent, even proof-sheets with corrections, but no other 
 writing. 
 
 Stamps are to be had at the post-offices, and the commoner kinds 
 at most stationers’, grocers’, &c. Post-cards have been introduced, 
 8 ore to the United Kingdom. 
 
 Money Orders are granted to an amount of 100 kr., when payable in 
 Copenhagen, 200 kr. They are forwarded by the post-masters. 
 
 There is a very complete network of about 2100 miles of telegraph 
 lines extending over the whole country, with submarine cables to 
 Russia, Sweden, Norway, England. The charge for 20 words in Den¬ 
 mark itself is 50 ore, and 30 ore additional for every 10 words; the 
 price of telegrams to places abroad varies according to distance, &c.; to 
 England, via the new cable from Jutland to England, a telegram of 
 20 words costs at present 4 kr. 32 ore, or about 5s. The inland 
 telegraph is mostly under control of the G overnment. 
 
 6.—Inns and Hotel Accommodation. 
 
 The inns in Denmark are of a more primitive character than those 
 in the provincial towns of England. The best hotels of Copenhagen, 
 however, make greater pretensions, and, though not yet equal to the 
 best inns in West and Central Europe, will satisfy most travellers. 
 The proprietors, or at any rate some of the servants, speak English; 
 guides and every necessary information are easily obtained. English 
 is also spoken in many of the shops of Copenhagen. The hotels are 
 fairly clean, but the sanitary arrangements are often very defective, 
 even in Copenhagen. Damp sheets are not uncommon, and damp 
 napkins are the rule rather than the exception. The cuisine is bad; 
 veal is very much used ; the fish is not very palatable; too much oil 
 and butter are used in cooking things. The plates are invariably cold. 
 The usual dinner hour is 1 p.m. in the smaller towns, and 4 p.m. in 
 Copenhagen. When dinner is at 1 o’clock, there is supper at 8 p.m.. 
 
Denmark. § 7. travelling servants—§ 8. clothes, etc. 7 
 
 consisting usually of one hot dish and a multitude of cold viands. 
 Smoked salmon is very good. The beer is good, the wines bad and 
 expensive. The most absurd names are given to wines, without rhyme 
 or reason. The commonest vin ordinaire is labelled Margaux, and the 
 vilest Niersteiner, Johannisberg. White port wine is a remarkable 
 compound. Capital cherry cordial is made in Copenhagen by Heering. 
 
 7. —Travelling Servants. 
 
 Avoid taking English servants to Scandinavia, and particularly 
 women, as they would prove a far greater trouble than comfort. 
 
 Few, if any, of the regular couriers speak Danish or Swedish, and 
 would therefore be also useless. But at Copenhagen, Gothenburg, 
 Stockholm, and Christiania, there are men who speak English, and 
 have been much accustomed to travel with gentlemen, chiefly upon 
 sporting expeditions in Norway and Sweden. These persons drive 
 well, prepare the Forbud papers, cook, and are particularly useful. 
 They are paid about 4s. 6 d. a day, besides their lodging and travelling 
 expenses. (See remarks under head Language in Introductory In¬ 
 formation, Handbook for Norway .) It is advisable to have a written 
 agreement with these men before starting, and in case of not returning 
 to the place where they were engaged, it is well to make a particular 
 arrangement about their return. 
 
 8. —Clothes and Luggage. 
 
 As the majority of travellers pass through Denmark on their way to 
 other countries, the reader is referred to the suggestions on these heads 
 contained in the Handbooks for those countries, merely observing here 
 that all articles of luggage should be waterproof, and the total weight 
 of each person’s baggage should not exceed 50 lbs. All beyond that 
 must be paid for by those who travel by railways abroad, and other 
 public conveyances, except steamers. 
 
 For Clothes .—Two suits are sufficient: a new and strong one, all of 
 woollen material, for every-day use, and another for towns, with a 
 waterproof overcoat. The socks or stockings should be worsted, as 
 cotton soon blisters the feet in walking. Shoes or boots should be 
 double-soled and well nailed for every-day use. 
 
 For Ladies .—The travelling dress should be of strong fabric, Scotch 
 spun-silk, or some very light woollen material. Stout boots and a pair 
 of goloshes for wet decks are useful. For wraps, the best are a Scotch 
 plaid, of the largest and coarsest sort. A jacket of sealskin or cloth, 
 and wadded; and a large cloak with sleeves and cape. 
 
8 
 
 § 9. SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF DENMARK. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 9.— Succinct Account of Denmark. — Possessions.—Area and Popu¬ 
 lation.—Geology and Physical Geography. — Climate.—Season for 
 Travelling. 
 
 Dominions. —Shorn of her former greatness, the Danish realm now 
 only comprises the northern portion of the Cimbrian Peninsula, and a 
 number, in all, of about 200 islands, situated at the entrance of the 
 Baltic; of which Sealand, Fyen (which on German maps is called 
 Fiinen), Lolland, and Falster are the largest, besides Bornholm, off the 
 S.E. coast of Sweden. The Faro Islands, Iceland, Greenland, and the 
 Islands of St. Thomas, St. Croix, and St. Jan in the West Indies also 
 belong to the Danish Crown, whilst the Danish settlements in East 
 India and in Africa were sold to Great Britain in 1816. The area of 
 Denmark Proper, with the islands in the Baltic, is 21,667 English 
 square miles, and the population about 1,969,454. 
 
 Schleswig Holstein contains a population of about 995,000, and the 
 area is about 6800 square miles, including Alsen and the Frisian 
 Islands. 
 
 Geology and General Aspect. —The scenery of Denmark is generally 
 very flat and monotonous, but its forests of beech and oak are magnifi¬ 
 cent, and some of the views on the E. coast are highly picturesque. 
 With the exception of Bornholm, which in point of geology agrees 
 with southern Sweden, Denmark is a part of the great plain of Northern 
 Europe, and the elevation above the sea nowhere reaches 600 feet. The 
 oldest formation anywhere to be observed is the Upper Cretaceous, and 
 in some places the limestone contributes materially to the beauty of 
 the landscape, particularly at Stevns Klint on the E. coast of Sealand, 
 and on the little island of Moen, where the white cliffs adorn the sea- 
 coast, crowned in the last-mentioned locality with magnificent beech- 
 woods. The cretaceous strata of Denmark offer peculiarly interesting 
 phenomena to the geologist, and have been the subject of a well-known 
 treatise by Sir Charles Lyell. Besides Stevns and Moen, the most 
 interesting locality is Faxo, an ancient coral crag, now far inland, 
 abounding in rare and peculiar fossils. The limestone is covered with 
 various beds of sand and clay, which mostly present an undulating 
 surface; and as the country, particularly on the islands, is rich in wood 
 and small lakes, there is no lack of pretty scenery. 
 
 It is for the greater part a fertile country, where every acre is tilled 
 or otherwise turned to account, where uncultivated commons are as 
 unknown as extensive pleasure-grounds, feeding its own inhabitants 
 abundantly, and supplying the neighbouring countries to a considerable 
 
Denmark. § 9 . succinct account of Denmark. 
 
 9 
 
 extent with corn and cattle, dairy and poultry produce. Agriculture is 
 perhaps not yet on an equal point of development with England or 
 Scotland, hut is rapidly progressing; and, as the farmers are nearly 
 all freeholders, the bulk of the nation prospers by it: particularly since 
 the Eepeal of the English Corn Laws, and the opening up of English 
 markets, a great improvement has been observable. 
 
 The rivers are, of course, but small—the longest is the Oudenaa in 
 North Jutland, 90 miles in length. There is not much fishing in them. 
 Nor is there much natural pasture-ground; the fresh grass fields, 
 hemmed in by rows of elm and oak so familiar to the English eye, are 
 wanting. Hill and dale are covered with interminable corn-fields, now 
 and then interspersed with clover-fields, where the cattle stand tethered, 
 and so entirely have the hedges in many places disappeared, that the 
 different farms are scarcely divided off from each other by a decent 
 ditch. But instead of the hedgerows of stately elms and oaks, and 
 park glades with isolated groups of trees, the Danish landscape is 
 enlivened by frequent and often extensive tracts of dense woodland, 
 consisting of beech and oak, and now also of pine and fir. A century 
 ago these last-named trees existed scarcely outside the private parks 
 and gardens, though the deposits of the peat-bogs prove that in ancient 
 times they were predominant in the forests, but are now planted 
 most extensively, so that very large tracts of sandy and poor soil are 
 covered with them. This latter change is particularly observed in the 
 less fertile part of the country—the middle and west part of North 
 Jutland —which formerly was well timbered, but where the pernicious 
 influence of the westerly winds and injudicious treatment of the forests 
 have entirely destroyed these. 
 
 The N. eastern coast of Jutland, and indeed of the whole Cimbrian 
 peninsula and its islands, is intersected by “ fjords,” long, winding, but 
 mostly narrow inlets from the sea, well wooded and cultivated, and pre¬ 
 senting, upon the whole, the same characters as the landscape on the 
 islands. But all along the middle of the peninsula there stretches a tract 
 of heath, sometimes presenting an apparently unbounded plain overgrown 
 with heather and furze, now and then intersected by small winding rivers, 
 bordered by a narrow strip of meadow-land thinly inhabited, but where 
 for the rest not a soul meets the wanderer for half a day, save, perhaps, 
 a lonely shepherd minding a flock of hardy, bony animals, valuable for 
 their fine skin and wool, but whose flesh is as tough as the heather off 
 which they nibble the tenderest shoots. In some parts the sandy soil 
 contains a peculiar hard stratum, several inches thick, two or more feet 
 under ground, called Ahl, opposing a formidable, though not invincible, 
 obstacle to the growth of trees. The Ahl is still forming by the con- 
 
10 § 9. succinct account of Denmark. Denmark. 
 
 glomeration of the sand under the influence of water containing a little 
 iron, and the cause of it is to be sought in the destruction of the ancient 
 forest which covered these parts. The highest elevation is generally 
 near the east coast, from which it diminishes gradually towards the 
 west, so that many small rivers rising a few miles from the east coast 
 nevertheless traverse the whole north of the country and fall into the 
 North Sea. Where this desolate tract meets the well-timbered and 
 fertile east coast, it is often broken up into rounded hills, whose 
 sheltered sides are green and wooded, whilst their bases are surrounded 
 by fresh meadows, forming a beautiful ensemble of colour with the rich 
 glow of flowering heather. 
 
 Further to the west, the landscape undergoes another change; 
 the plain becomes more and more flat and watery, the scanty trees 
 disappear by degrees entirely, till at last a row of abrupt sand-hills 
 rise in the horizon, looking at first like distant mountains, though 
 not higher than 100 ft., so abrupt and peculiar are often their forms, 
 and presenting to the wanderer who ascends them the unbounded 
 view of the North Sea which bathes their base, and in fact called them 
 into existence. This dangerous and treacherous sandy coast stretches 
 for 200 miles from Blaavandshuk, not far from Yarde, to the Skaw, all 
 the way girt by a double or treble row of sandbanks, “ Bevler,” where 
 many a good ship has become a prey to the fury of the waves. So 
 dangerous is this coast that there are not less than 14 lifeboat stations 
 and 7 rocket stations established along it. At many places on this 
 coast the sea is making constant inroads on the land, and this is par¬ 
 ticularly noticeable at the south-west corner of North Jutland and along 
 the coast of Schleswig. Originally the general native features of the 
 Cimbrian peninsula and its islands, from the Elbe to the Skaw, seem 
 to have been quite the same in the whole of its length; while at some 
 remote period, difficult to determine, but it is thought subsequently to 
 the first appearance of mankind in those regions, an extensive subsidence 
 of the coast of this part of the North Sea took place. The range of 
 sand-hills which still exists along the coast of North Jutland was 
 broken through in numerous places, and the flat land inside inundated. 
 Fragments of the range of dunes and of ancient cliffs are still 
 standing, protecting a little tract of land on their east side, and forming 
 a row of islands along the whole coast of South Jutland, separated from 
 the mainland by a broad expanse of sea, which, however, for the greater 
 part, is dry at low tide. 
 
 During the long time which has succeeded this change of level and 
 consequent irruption of the sea, extensive marshes have been formed 
 along the coast, which by degrees have been reclaimed by means of 
 
JDenmarl'. 
 
 §10. HISTORICAL NOTICE. 
 
 11 
 
 dykes, which present the same appearance as the marshes in the 
 eastern counties of England, Norfolk, Lincolnshire, &c.; hut during 
 the last 1000 years the sea has again destroyed more than it has added 
 in this way to the mainland and the islands. Along the west coast of 
 the peninsula of Eidersted in Schleswig stands the southernmost part 
 of the ancient range of dunes. That the formation of these islands along 
 the west coast of Schleswig, and of the marshes along the shores of that 
 part of the sea which separates them from the mainland, is subsequent 
 to the first appearance of man in these parts seems to be rendered 
 evident by the fact that, under the thick layers of marsh-clay, peat¬ 
 bogs and remains of ancient forests, and in the peat and at the root of 
 the trees, implements of flint, pottery and other remains of human 
 civilization have been discovered. 
 
 The climate of Denmark, upon the whole, is mild ; the average tem¬ 
 perature of Copenhagen is 46‘8° Fahr., the greatest heat observed in the 
 shade is nearly 94°, the extreme cold nearly — 19° Fahr. It is fairly 
 healthy, but, on account of the frequent changes and the preponderance 
 of wind, not particularly agreeable; though scarcely less so than the 
 climate of England. We are, however, quite disinclined to endorse 
 Mr. A. J. C. Hare’s statement that “ those who are worn with a London 
 season will feel as if every breath in the crystal air of Denmark endued 
 them with fresh health and strength.” The Danish climate is favourable 
 to vegetation, which is remarkably luxuriant, and both the flora and 
 the fauna of Denmark are, in proportion to the extent of the country, 
 remarkably rich. 
 
 The best months for travelling are June, July, and August; May 
 and September are, in favourable years, also very agreeable in Denmark, 
 and the trees often retain their foliage beautifully tinted until the close 
 of October. 
 
 10.— Historical Notice. 
 
 It is aptly observed by Sir John Lubbock, in his work on ‘ Prehistoric 
 Times,’ that Denmark occupies a larger space in history than on the map 
 of Europe. Not only might, as he points out, many a larger nation 
 well envy the Danes the position they hold in science and art, but it 
 is ancient, besides undoubtedly true that the times of Denmark, as 
 of Scandinavia, upon the whole, were its most splendid period, to 
 which even now the greatest interest attaches. The monuments from 
 pre-historic and earliest historic time of Denmark are numerous and 
 interesting. At that time Denmark, properly speaking, comprised 
 Jutland (including South Jutland and Schleswig), the Danish islands, 
 and the southern part of modern Sweden. It is remarkable that the 
 
12 
 
 § 10 . HISTORICAL NOTICE. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 earliest really historical fact in Danish history is a war with Germany, 
 then under the rule of Charlemagne, which ended by a peace concluded 
 in 810, whereby the river Eyder, which separates the modern duchies 
 of Schleswig and Holstein, was declared the frontier between Denmark 
 and Germany, as indeed it remained till 1864, when Denmark was 
 compelled to cede the duchy of Schleswig to Germany. 
 
 In the war with Charlemagne, the Danish King Gotrik constructed 
 a line of defences reaching from the marches at the lower Eyder 
 to the Baltic, which afterwards was extended into the famous 
 Dcmevirke, built in the 10th cent, by King Gorms’ Queen Thyra, 
 called Danebod, or the Danes’ joy, according to tradition an English 
 princess. 
 
 Christianity was first introduced into Denmark in 827, by Ansgarius, 
 the Apostle of the North, a monk from the convent of New Corvey in 
 Westphalia, but it did not thoroughly subvert the old pagan faith of 
 Scandinavia, which is so well known from the ancient Sagas, till after 
 the conquest of England by Kings Sivein and Canute . While scores 
 of thousands of Danes emigrated to the British Islands (see Worsaae’s 
 ‘ Danes and Northmen in England,’ and his later work on the Danish 
 conquest of England and Normandy), a great number of Englishmen 
 settled in Denmark, or were sent there by the king, and these were 
 mainly instrumental in establishing the Church in Denmark, and 
 founding ecclesiastical institutions and buildings there. 
 
 At the death of Canute, his great empire, comprising Denmark, 
 Norway, England, the south of Scotland, and large territories along the 
 shores of the Baltic, was broken up, and Denmark was for a long time 
 distracted by internal feuds. Amongst the later Danish kings, those 
 of the so-called Valdemarian period, Valdemar I., Kanut VI., 
 Voldemar II., stand out prominently, by firmly established power at 
 home and splendid warlike exploits abroad. The Danes scarcely par¬ 
 ticipated in the Crusades, but undertook similar expeditions into the 
 Pagan countries to the south and east of the Baltic for the establish¬ 
 ment of Christianity there. On one of these a battle was fought 
 near Bevel in Bussia, where the Danish army, sore pressed by a 
 numerous hostile force, was rallied and led to victory by the sudden 
 display of a scarlet banner with a white cross, which had been sent by 
 the Pope, but which, according to the popular tradition, fell down from 
 heaven. This happened in 1219; and since then this flag, under 
 the name of Danebrog, became the Danish national emblem, and 
 superseded, as such, the figure of the raven, which until then was used, 
 and which appears on the numerous coins struck by Danish kings in 
 England. 
 
Denmark. 
 
 § 10 . HISTORICAL NOTICE. 
 
 13 
 
 Valdernar II., called the victorious, on account of his success in war 
 during the first years of his reign, has left a great name on record as a 
 law-giver; and the oldest Danish statute laws, civil and ecclesiastical, 
 date from his reign. He also caused the compilation of a most 
 interesting account of the royal revenue derived from property in the 
 whole of the kingdom, a kind of Doomsday Book. He died in 1241; 
 and now followed another period of internal discord, coupled with 
 foreign oppression, which only terminated when a nobleman of Jutland, 
 called Niels Ebbesen, by a daring enterprise, slew the most powerful of 
 the foreigners who sucked the life-blood of the people, Count Gerhard 
 of Holstein. The nation rose with energy, led by a third Valdernar, 
 who again established the integrity and independence of the realm. 
 His daughter, Queen Margaret, perhaps the ablest ruler Denmark ever 
 had, succeeded in uniting with the crown of Denmark those of Norway 
 and Sweden, by the union of Calmar of 1397. But at her death the 
 united Scandinavian crowns passed on to German princes distantly 
 related to the ancient royal family of Denmark, who lacked both 
 ability and energy to work out the great political scheme begun by her; 
 and after a troubled existence of about 120 years, the union came to an 
 end by the secession of Sweden. 
 
 Margaret’s successor was Erik of Pomerania, whose queen, Philippa, 
 daughter of Henry IV. of England, made herself a name in history by 
 her courageous defence of Copenhagen against the fleets of the Hanseatic 
 League in the absence of the king. At the death of his successor, 
 Christoph of Bavaria, the throne of Denmark came to Christian I., the 
 first of the Oldenburg dynasty, which till 1863 reigned in Denmark, 
 and of which a younger branch occupies the throne of Itussia. 
 Christian I. acquired the duchy of Holstein. In the reign of 
 Christian III. the Reformation was carried through in Denmark 
 without any serious difficulty. 
 
 The ablest king of this dynasty was Christian IV. (1588-1648), 
 who not only distinguished himself as an able and gallant warrior, but 
 also by his thrift and economy, and who left lasting monuments in the 
 numerous and splendid buildings which he executed in a style akin to 
 the Elizabethan, and which in Denmark is described as the style of 
 Christian IV. Good specimens are the castles of Rosenborg and Frede- 
 riksborg, and the exchange of Copenhagen. His well-meant exertions 
 for the good of the country were paralysed by the nobility, whose 
 constitutional power was so great that the king was reduced to little 
 more than the president of an aristocratic republic. Under his son 
 Frederik III., the State was brought to the verge of ruin by the want 
 of patriotism of the nobility, owing to which the military resources of 
 
14 
 
 § 10 . HISTORICAL NOTICE. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 the kingdom were so reduced that Charles X. of Sweden found it an 
 easy task to deprive Denmark of her provinces east of the Sound, which 
 have ever since formed part of Sweden. The indignation of the people 
 was now raised to the highest pitch, and the yoke of the nobility was 
 thrown off, never to be reimposed, though only in order to transfer abso¬ 
 lute and hereditary sovereignty to the king and his successors ; and 
 for nearly two centuries, 1660-1848, Denmark remained an absolute 
 hereditary monarchy, whilst previously the Crown had been elective. 
 
 But few of the kings of the Oldenburg dynasty were distinguished 
 by national feeling and interest in Danish language and nationality; 
 their queens and their confidential advisers were mostly Germans; and 
 the Danes, however able, very rarely succeeded in exercising any great 
 influence, or in rising to the highest dignities of the State. In this 
 respect Frederik V. (1746-1766), amongst others, formed a notable 
 exception ; his first queen, Louisa, was a daughter of George II., and 
 greatly beloved by her subjects. Their son, Christian VII., the 
 husband of the unfortunate Caroline Mathilde, sister of George III., 
 was from childhood of a sickly constitution, which soon became 
 entirely undermined by a reckless life, and the consequence was a 
 rapidly increasing mental aberration, which necessarily brought the 
 supreme power into the hands of others. 
 
 For a few years, Struensee, a German physician who had advanced 
 to the highest dignities, governed the country with undoubted good 
 intention, but with a disregard of national feelings and rooted preju¬ 
 dices, which raised against him powerful enemies. He was a follower of 
 Yoltaire and the French philosophy of the day, whose ideas he tried to 
 realize in government in a headstrong, yet not really energetic, and at 
 the same time reckless manner. He became the victim of a Court con¬ 
 spiracy ; the king -was persuaded, or rather frightened, into signing the 
 orders for his deposition and trial before a special court, and he was 
 beheaded in 1772. His fall brought ruin upon the queen, who being 
 accused of an illicit liaison with the fallen Minister, was divorced from 
 the king, and banished. The British Court, who did not question the 
 justice of this measure, gave her a residence at Celle, in Hanover, 
 where she died in 1775. The sad fate of the queen has always 
 secured for her the sympathy of those who know what temptations her 
 position and the conduct and mental state of her husband threw in her 
 way ; but the scanty additional light which later times have thrown 
 upon the matter has not served to vindicate her innocence. 
 
 From the time of Struensee’s fall dates a strong and ever-increasing 
 revival of Danish national feeling, of Danish literature, art, and science; 
 and subsequent kings have, in this respect, stood on the side of their 
 
Denmark. 
 
 § 10 . HISTORICAL NOTICE. 
 
 15 
 
 Danish subjects, though perhaps not always with the desirable energy. 
 Towards the close of the century, Danish commerce and shipping rose 
 to a very flourishing condition, thanks to the neutrality observed by 
 Denmark in the great wars which then devastated Europe. This 
 favourable state of things suffered a short interruption by the hostilities 
 commenced by Eogland in 1801, with a view of compelling Denmark 
 to secede from the league of the armed neutrality formed by neutral 
 States for the protection of their commerce. Then the famous battle of 
 the 2nd of April, 1801, was fought in the roadstead of Copenhagen, 
 between a division of the English fleet under Nelson, and the southern 
 part of the “ Danish line of defence,” a number of old ships’ hulks 
 moored or grounded on the shallow sands of Amager, while the Danish 
 fleet lay unarmed and unequipped in the harbour. The result was that 
 Denmark agreed to withdraw from the neutrality league ; but the blood¬ 
 shed and bitter feelings caused by the war might have been spared, for 
 a few days after, the Emperor of Russia died, and the league, of which 
 he was the soul, broke up of its own accord. 
 
 Of far greater consequence was the second war with England, which 
 began in 1807. The English Government having received information 
 that the Emperor Napoleon had concerted a plan with the Emperor of 
 Russia for invading Denmark, and compelling her to place her fleet at 
 his disposal, resolved to prevent this, by doing herself what the French 
 Emperor was suspected of intending. A fleet with 20,000 men w r as 
 despatched to Copenhagen, and a demand was presented for the imme¬ 
 diate surrender of the Danish fleet. Though utterly unprepared for 
 war, of which there was no prospect, the Danish Government returned 
 the only answer which could be expected from a nation not entirely 
 destitute of self-respect. Copenhagen, which was without a garrison 
 and virtually defenceless, was compelled to surrender by a three days’ 
 bombardment, whereby a great part of the city was destroyed; and 
 the fleet was equipped and carried away by the English. Denmark 
 thus became entangled in the great w r ars of Europe, from which she 
 had nothing to gain, and from which she had hitherto studiously kept 
 aloof; and in 1814 she was compelled to cede Norway to Sweden. 
 The Danish shipping and commerce was destroyed, the state bankrupt, 
 the people very nearly ruined; but, thanks to an economical govern¬ 
 ment, the natural resources of the country, and fortunate circumstances, 
 the losses were repaired; and when Frederik YI., in whose reign—as 
 prince regent and king—these misfortunes happened, died in 1839, the 
 national credit was re-established; and though greatly reduced in 
 extent, the country, upon the whole, was prospering. 
 
 Meanwhile, the so-called Schleswig-Holstein agitation developed 
 
16 
 
 § 10 . HISTORICAL NOTICE. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 itself. It was an offshoot of the unity movement in Germany, and 
 had for its object to separate from Denmark and unite with Germany 
 not only the originally German duchy of Holstein, which had been 
 acquired by Christian I. in 1460, but also the originally Danish duchy 
 of Schleswig, which had never in any way been connected with 
 Germany, but of which the southern part, by constant immigration, 
 had become Germanized. The scheme was favoured by the circum¬ 
 stance that the latter duchy enjoyed a somewhat separate position in 
 the Danish state, which had originated in its being a border province. 
 Ever since the Danevirke was constructed near the southern frontier, a 
 Danish army was generally stationed there, mostly under the command 
 of a royal prince, who exercised a certain authority in the adjoining 
 districts, and this led to the pernicious custom of granting the whole or 
 part of the province of South Jutland or Schleswig to junior branches 
 of the royal family as a fief of the Danish crown. Although these 
 vassals often became very troublesome, and even made common 
 cause with the enemies of the realm which they ought to have 
 defended, this was continued for centuries in the interest of the 
 reigning family, but to the detriment of the empire, whose interests 
 did not always coincide as long as the crown was elective, that is till 
 1660. 
 
 When at length Frederilc IV., in 1720, regained the whole of the 
 duchy for the then hereditary crown, he did not properly consolidate it 
 with the rest of the kingdom in point of administration. This served 
 as a handle for the secessionists of later times, and the intricate ques¬ 
 tions of public law which they raised rendered the controversy on this 
 question, which lasted for 30 years, a perfect monster both as regards 
 bulk and obscurity, and quite a phenomenon in the political history 
 of the world. The scheme of separating the two duchies from Denmark, 
 and joining them to Germany as a new state, found great favour in 
 Germany, particularly because the Bay of Kiel, where the German 
 nationalists wished to see a German fleet established, lies partly in 
 Holstein and partly in Schleswig territory, and it found strong support 
 from the Duke of Augustenborg, representative of one of the younger 
 branches of the house of Oldenburg, who hoped to obtain the sovereignty 
 of the new state it was proposed to form, under the name of Schleswig- 
 Holstein. 
 
 Neither Frederik VI., nor his successor Christian VIII., was able 
 to stem the agitation ; and when the French Bevolution broke out in 
 1848, a few weeks after the death of the latter, and was followed by 
 disturbances all over Europe, a rebellion also broke out in Holstein. 
 The Danish army repeatedly worsted the insurgents, and the insurrec- 
 
Denmark. 
 
 § 10 . HISTORICAL NOTICE. 
 
 17 
 
 tion would not have lasted two months hut for the interference of 
 Prussia and other German States. At length Prussia was compelled 
 by the other European Powers to withdraw her troops, and a peace was 
 concluded in Berlin, in 1850; after which, the insurrectionary army, 
 left to its own resources, was defeated at Idsted, July 26, 1850, but no 
 satisfactory settlement was arrived at. The insurrection bad destroyed 
 the unity of the state, and the Danish Government had to frame and 
 introduce a new representative constitution for the whole monarchy. 
 Frederik VII., who ascended the throne in 1848, shortly before the 
 outbreak of the rebellion, had granted a very liberal constitution ; hut 
 this could not he extended to the whole monarchy. The German 
 Confederation had a voice in the matter as regarded Holstein, and kept 
 the whole question open by refusing its assent to any proposals of the 
 Danish Government, and by abstaining from indicating what would he 
 acceptable. 
 
 Nothing was therefore settled when Frederik VII. died in November 
 1863. He was the last (save an aged childless uncle) of the direct 
 male descendants of Christian I. in the eldest line, and as some doubts 
 had been raised as to the law of succession in the different parts 
 of the monarchy, an arrangement had been made as early as 1852, 
 in anticipation of his death without children, whereby the succession 
 to the whole of the Danish monarchy, including Holstein, had been 
 transferred to Prince Christian of Gliicksburg, belonging to one of the 
 junior branches of the house of Oldenburg. This arrangement had 
 been consented to by all concerned, and embodied in the Treaty of 
 London of 1852, to which all the European Powers acceded, excepting 
 the King of Bavaria and some minor German princes. 
 
 The Duke of Augustenborg, who had been so active in getting up 
 the insurrection in Holstein, promised for himself and his family not to 
 disturb this arrangement, nor allow any one else to do so; in considera¬ 
 tion of which the Danish Government paid him a handsome indemnity 
 for his estates in Schleswig which had been confiscated. 
 
 But as soon as Frederik VII. was dead, Prussia and Austria 
 refused to acknowledge the succession of Christian IX. in conformity 
 with the treaty, and the son of the Duke of Augustenborg came 
 forward as a pretender with the sanction of his father, and eventually 
 Prussian and Austrian troops entered Holstein in the first days of 1864. 
 The two German Powers demanded the instantaneous withdrawal of 
 the so-called Constitution of November 18, 1863, the last attempt 
 of the Danish Government to solve the difficulty which, but for the 
 sudden death of Frederik VII., might very likely have led to a 
 satisfactory result. The Danish Government having ascertained that 
 
 [Denmark.'] c 
 
18 
 
 ' § 10 . HISTORICAL NOTICE. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 the concession of this demand would be followed by fresh demands 
 impossible to fulfil, and that the German Powers intended to force on a 
 war a tout prix, refused, and then began the war of 1864. 
 
 The Danish army, inferior to its opponents in equipment, numbers, 
 in short, everything except bravery, was stationed at the Danevirke, 
 as a thousand years before in the war against Charlemagne; hut the 
 position was too extensive for its numbers, and when on the point of 
 being outflanked, the Danish general retreated to the slightly fortified 
 heights of Dybbol (German Diippel), opposite the island of Als, on the 
 east coast of the duchy, thus leaving the country open to the enemy. 
 The German armies laid regular siege with rifled cannon to the 
 entrenchments at Diippel, which were not calculated to withstand 
 operations of that kind. After two months’ siege, they were taken by 
 assault by the Prussians, just as the Danish commander was going to 
 retire to Als and give up a position which had become untenable. 
 
 An armistice and an European conference in London followed, hut 
 the German Powers, well knowing that no other state was willing to 
 go to war for Denmark, refused to abate anything of their demands, 
 namely, the unconditional surrender of Schleswig and Holstein (includ¬ 
 ing the domain of Lauenburg). When hard pressed, they held out a 
 possibility of leaving Denmark in possession of a strip of land in North 
 Schleswig, but reserved to themselves to name their conditions; and as 
 it was well known that these would be such as to render the acceptance 
 of their offer useless, it came to nothing. At last it was proposed to 
 leave the dispute to the decision of an arbiter, hut this both refused: 
 Denmark honestly and outright, well knowing that she would gain 
 nothing by thus abandoning her rights; the Germans indirectly, in 
 this form, that they accepted the proposal provided they were not to be 
 bound by the award. Hostilities which had ceased during the negotia¬ 
 tions, recommenced; the Prussians succeeded in effecting a landing on 
 Als, and at last Denmark was obliged to sue for peace. 
 
 After protracted negotiations, a peace was signed in Vienna, 20th 
 August, 1864, whereby the King of Denmark ceded to Prussia and 
 Austria the three duchies. If the Danes did not receive that material 
 support during the war to which they had thought themselves entitled 
 in the name, not only of treaties, hut of common justice, and of the 
 interest which all nations must have in preventing breaches of good 
 faith and the establishment of government by the sword alone, they 
 had the sympathy of the whole civilised world, and this showed itself 
 in two ways; viz.: during the war, in the manner in which every 
 kind of contribution for comfort and assistance for the wounded and 
 fallen Danes and their relicts flowed in from all parts of the globe, not 
 
Denmark. 
 
 § 11 . STATISTICS. 
 
 19 
 
 least from England, the two English relief committees alone forwarding 
 more than 20,000?., whilst after the war, a strong mark of sympathy 
 was given by the Emperor of the French, who, when two years after¬ 
 wards Prussia compelled Austria to cede her part in the conquered 
 provinces, obtained a clause in the Peace of Prague, the celebrated 
 Article V., to the effect that the Danish part of Schleswig should be 
 restored to Denmark. As yet this has not been done; but no Dane 
 seems to doubt that it will be done sooner or later; and the population 
 of Schleswig, from the town of Flensborg, or rather from a line a little 
 south of that town, to the northern frontier, omit no opportunity, such 
 as election of deputies to the Prussian Chambers or the North German 
 Parliament, to manifest their stout adherence to the mother country, to 
 protest against their separation from Denmark, and to call for the 
 execution of Article V. in the Peace of Prague. 
 
 The present King of Denmark, Christian IX., belongs to the Gliicks- 
 burg branch of the house of Oldenburg, and descends from King 
 Christian III. of Denmark. He succeeded to the crown of Denmark on 
 the 15th of November, 1863, in virtue of the above-mentioned arrange¬ 
 ment of 1852, on the extinction of the male line of the old royal branch 
 of the house of Oldenburg, in the person of Frederik VII. King 
 Christian IX. was born on the 8th of April, 1818 ; the Queen of 
 Denmark, Louisa, daughter of the late Landgrave Vilhelm of Hesse, 
 and niece of the Duchess of Cambridge, was born the 7th September, 
 1817. Their children are: 1, Frederik, Crown Prince of Denmark, 
 born 3rd June, 1843, married to Louisa, daughter of the late King 
 Charles XV. of Sweden and Norway ; 2, Alexandra, Princess of Wales, 
 born 1st December, 1844; 3, George I., King of Greece, born 24th 
 December, 1845, married to Olga, eldest daughter of Grand Duke 
 Constantine of Russia; 4, Dagmar (Marie Feodorowna), married to 
 the Czarewitch of Russia, born 26th November, 1847; 5, Thyra, 
 born 27th September, 1853, and married to the Duke of Cumberland ; 
 6, Valdemar, born 27th October, 1858. 
 
 11.— Statistics. 
 
 Constitution and Government .—Denmark is an hereditary constitu¬ 
 tional monarchy, and the present constitution, settled the 28th July, 
 1866, is very nearly the same as the one granted by Frederik VII. in 
 1848-49. The powers of the parliament are essentially the same as 
 those possessed by the British parliament. The Rigsdag is a represen¬ 
 tative and legislative assembly, consisting of two Chambers or Things 
 (the old appellation of such assemblies in the Scandinavian kingdoms 
 and settlements, and still in use in the Isle of Man). (1) The Lands- 
 
 c 2 
 
20 
 
 § 11. STATISTICS. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 thing of 66 members, twelve of whom are nominated for life by the 
 king, and the rest elected for eight years, seven by the city of Copen¬ 
 hagen, forty-five in the electoral districts, one for Bornholm, and one 
 for the Faroe islands. (2) The Folkething, composed of about 102 
 members, or one representative for 16,000 inhabitants, elected for three 
 years. The franchise very nearly approaches manhood suffrage, the 
 districts being equally divided, and every individual of twenty-five 
 years of age who is not a domestic servant, a bankrupt, convicted 
 criminal, or lunatic, being a voter. There is perfect equality between 
 the two houses, hut the Folkething has the privilege of first discussing 
 the Budget. The Landsthing is elected by an indirect method of 
 facilitating the representation of minorities. Voters for members of the 
 Landsthing must prove an annual income of 130?. 
 
 A Constitution was granted to Iceland in 1874 (v. p. 124), and its 
 parliament meets biennially. It is represented by a Minister in the 
 Danish Rigsdag or Diet. 
 
 There is a perfect freedom of the press, of association, and of worship, 
 in Denmark. 
 
 Church and Education .—The Evangelical Lutheran Church is the 
 state church, and the king must belong to it; hut all religious com¬ 
 munities have civilly equal rights. Only the offices of judges are now 
 reserved for Christians, whereas Jews were formerly almost confined to 
 the medical profession. There are very few Dissenters in Denmark 
 (not one per cent, of the whole population), a circumstance which per¬ 
 haps is caused by the more perfect blending together of the different 
 classes of society. The means of education being abundant and cheap, 
 it is not difficult, even to the poorest, to rise by talent and industry ; 
 and many members both of the clergy and of the different learned pro¬ 
 fessions belong originally to the humbler classes of the people. The 
 system of compulsory education has long been in force, and it is very 
 rare to meet a person who cannot read and write. The “ Latin schools,” 
 which prepare for the university, are also almost all public institutions, 
 under direct Government control. As no profits are to he made by 
 them, the school fees are very moderate, and in all of them there is 
 a considerable number of free scholarships. The university of Copen¬ 
 hagen is wealthy, and more than 150 students receive free lodgings and 
 other assistance while preparing for examinations. General education 
 is consequently widely diffused in Denmark, and the Danish nation can 
 boast a proportionately large number of prominent names in science and 
 literature, and a striking proof of the high intellectual standard to which 
 the country has attained is afforded by the liberality shown in providing 
 the splendid, and in some respects unique, museums of Copenhagen. 
 
Denmark. 
 
 § 11. STATISTICS. 
 
 21 
 
 Trade and Industry.— Denmark is essentially an agricultural 
 country, and corn, cattle, and dairy produce form the staple of exports, 
 of which a large proportion is brought to Great Britain. The export of 
 corn and barley and flour amounted to a value of 1,451,934?. in 1880. 
 The British Admiralty obtains its principal supplies of pork for the 
 fleet from Denmark. The exports of live animals amounted in 1880 
 to 1,409,898?. in value, including 17,224?. for horses. Danish horses, 
 particularly the so-called Jutland breed, a strong much-enduring animal 
 with arched neck, are much sought for on the Continent. 
 
 The Danish commercial fleet comprises about 3271 vessels, with a 
 tonnage of about 257,546, and the quantity of goods exported or im¬ 
 ported by sea from or to foreign places amounts to 1,100,000 tons, of 
 which about one-half is carried by Danish vessels. Many Danish 
 vessels are employed in trading from port to port in foreign countries, 
 and return hut rarely to their home, as there are many more ships 
 owned in Denmark than the trade of the country itself requires. 
 
 The manufactures are not of general importance, and though some 
 articles are of very good quality, they are mainly intended for home 
 consumption. There are large breweries near Copenhagen. 
 
 The bulk of the population are agriculturists, and the greater part 
 of the country belongs to freehold farmers possessing farms of from 
 20 to 120 acres. Formerly most of the farms, at least on the islands, 
 were subjected to a peculiar kind of tenure called “ Fasste,” which 
 secured all land subjected to it for the class of peasant farmers, as the 
 law practically prevented its absorption into larger holdings. But this 
 anomalous arrangement, which was originally designed to prevent the 
 pauperisation of the yeomanry, but which is not now required for this 
 purpose, and operates—as every kind of fixity of tenure must—pre¬ 
 judicially on the development of agriculture, is in process of abolition, 
 and thousands of these “ Freste ” farms are being converted into 
 freehold, a fair compensation being given to the landlords. Great 
 efforts are being made to become independent of manual labour, and 
 large importations of mowing, reaping, thrashing, and other agri¬ 
 cultural machinery, have of late years been made from England and 
 America. 
 
 In Danish home-politics the land question plays a prominent part, 
 and the class of freehold farmers form the strongest political party. It 
 is worthy of notice that in Denmark the agricultural population forms 
 the democracy, whilst the towns, contrary to what is usually the case, 
 form the conservative element. 
 
22 
 
 § 12 . BOOKS. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 Army and Navy.— The Danish army is based on conscription. 
 Liability to service commences at twenty-two, and the conscript serves 
 eight years in the Line and the Reserve, and then belongs to the 2nd 
 Reserve up to thirty-eight. The military and naval organisation is of 
 course only calculated to serve defensive purposes, and every effort is 
 made, that the finances will allow, for attaining the greatest efficiency. 
 The war footing for the army is 34,551, and of the army of reserve 
 12,993. The navy includes 28 steam-vessels, mounting 291 guns. 
 The debt, which is in course of reduction, amounted in 1880 to 
 9,629,257?., and the public revenue averages about 2,700,0007., or very 
 nearly the same as before the late war and the loss of the three duchies, 
 thanks to the increased prosperity of the country ; and though unsuc¬ 
 cessful in that struggle which, as Denmark was left to herself, could 
 have but one result, the Danish people still hold their place honourably 
 amongst the nations of Europe. 
 
 12.—Books. 
 
 The following is a list of books most likely to be found useful as well 
 as interesting :— 
 
 Beamish. Discovery of America by the Northmen, in the 10th century. 
 1 vol. 8vo. 1841. 
 
 Bremner. Excursions in Denmark, Norway, and Sweden. 2 vols. 8vo. 
 1840. 
 
 Clarke, Dr. Travels in various Countries in Europe, &c., &c. Part 3rd. 
 
 Scandinavia. 2 vols. 4to. 1819 and 1823. 
 
 Coxe. Travels in Poland, Russia, Sweden, and Denmark. 5 vols. 8vo. 
 5th edition. 1802. 
 
 Dunham. History of Denmark, Sweden, and Norway (Part of Dr. Lardner’s 
 Cabinet Cyclopaedia). 3 vols. 12mo. 1839. 
 
 Elliott. Letters from the North of Europe, or a Journal of Travels in 
 Holland, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, &c. 1 vol. 8vo. 1832. 
 
 Laing. Denmark and the Duchies. London. 1852. 
 
 Letters from the Shores of the Baltic. 1 vol. 12mo. 1845. 
 
 Marry at. Jutland and the Danish Isles. 2 vols. 1860. 
 
 Stephens, G. Old Northern Runic Monuments. Copenhagen. 1867. 
 Worsaae, J, J. A. The Antiquities of South Jutland, in the Archaeo¬ 
 logical Journal. 1866. 
 
 Statistisk-topographisk. Beskrivesse af Kongeriget Danmark. Ved 
 J. P. Trap. 6 vols. Copenhagen. 1879. Containing capital maps, 
 plans, and pictures. 
 
 For Books on Iceland , see page 121. 
 
Denmark. 
 
 § 13 . SKELETON TOURS. 
 
 23 
 
 § 13. Skeleton Tours. 
 
 1. Tour in Denmark only. —3 weeks, month of August or September. 
 
 Loudon to Hamburg by Route 1. Hamburg to Rendsborg, Schles¬ 
 wig, and Flensborg, by Route 6. 3 days to be spent in Flensborg 
 
 for visiting Sbnderborg, Gliicksburg, Dybbbl, &c. Flensborg by way 
 of Holding and Frederick, to Odense (Route 6). 3 days in Odense to 
 visit places iu Fyen (Route 14). Odense to Copenhagen (Route 8). 
 Whence visit Roeskilde with Central and West Sealand (Route 11) ; 
 Elsinore, Frederiksborg, and North Sealand (Route 10); the 
 environs of Copenhagen (Route 9); and if time permits visit Mben 
 (Route 12). Return to England by way of Korsor, Kiel, and 
 Hamburg (Route 2). 
 
 2. Partial Tour of Scandinavia, which may be accomplished in 5 months, 
 
 from the end of April to 30th of September, allowing sufficient time 
 to rest at the different places of most interest. 
 
 Denmark. —From England by either of the routes given to Ham¬ 
 burg ; thence, Route 6, to Rendsborg, Schleswig, Flensborg, and ex¬ 
 cursions from these places; thence by sea to Korsor and Copenhagen. 
 Excursions from thence to Elsinore, Mben; tour through Sealand, 
 Fyen, and Jutland, and back to Copenhagen. Allow 5 weeks. 
 Sweden. —From Copenhagen to Malmb, Lund, Ystad, Carlskrona, 
 Kalmar, Westervik, Wisby, in Gothland, back to Westervik, Soder- 
 koping, by the Gotha Canal, to Gothenburg. Allow 3 weeks. 
 Norivay. —By land from Gothenburg to Frederikshald, the Falls 
 of the Glommen and Frederikstad ; thence by water to Christiania ; 
 Drammen, Kongsberg, the Riukan-Fos, and back to Kongsberg; 
 thence over the Fille Fjeld to Bergen; seeing the Voring-Fos, 
 Hardanger Fjord, &c., en route. From Bergen by water to the 
 Sogne Fjord : thence by land to Molde, by steamer to Trondhjem 
 and Hammerfest, boat to North Cape, back to Trondhjem. Circuit 
 from thence, over the Dovre Fjeld, down Romsdalen, and up the 
 coast, back to Trondhjem. Allow 2 months. Sweden. —By Sunds- 
 wall, Dalecarlia, and Upsala, Stockholm and environs, Liibeck, 
 Hamburg, England. Allow 1 month ; in all 5 months. 
 
 3. Tour of 3 months, from 1st June to end of September. 
 
 Denmark.—- From England to Hamburg, Kiel, Copenhagen; excur¬ 
 sions to Mben, Malmb, and Lund, return to Copenhagen ; Roeskilde, 
 Elsinore. Allow 16 days. Norway. —Steamer to Christiania, to 
 various places as in last tour, as far as Molde; from thence continue 
 to Trondhjem, then over the Dovre Fjeld. down Romsdalen and 
 back, through Gudbrandsdalen to Christiania. Steamer to Frederik- 
 
24 
 
 § 13 . SKELETON TOUKS. 
 
 Denmark, 
 
 stad, Falls of the Glommen, Frederikshald. Allow 42 days. Sweden. 
 —From Frederikshald by laud to Gottenburg; by Gotha Canal, 
 land at Soderkbping; Westervik, Wisby, Stockholm, and environs; 
 Upsala, back to Stockholm, Wismar, Liibeck, Hamburg, England. 
 Allow a month ; in all 3 months. 
 
 As the steamers from Copenhagen to Iceland touch at the port of 
 Leith, this island may he, and indeed generally is, visited independently 
 of other parts of Scandinavia, and the general information relating to 
 it, will be found at pp. 114-5. 
 
Denmark. 
 
 SENTENCES FOE COMMON USE. 
 
 24a 
 
 § 14. SERVICEABLE SENTENCES FOR COMMON USE * 
 
 Good morning! 
 
 How do you do? 
 
 Very well, I thank you. 
 
 Be so good as to take a seat. 
 
 Sit down for a moment. 
 
 Where are you going ? 
 
 Show me the way. 
 
 Which is the way ? 
 
 But when shall we see each other 
 again ? 
 
 Shall we then meet to-night ? 
 
 In the evening I shall be at home. 
 At what hour ? 
 
 About six or seven o’clock. 
 
 Shall I expect you then ? 
 
 Good-day. 
 
 Good-bye! 
 
 Good evening. 
 
 I beg pardon. 
 
 I don’t know. 
 
 I am very happy to see you. 
 
 I am much obliged to you. 
 
 I come from . . . 
 
 I am travelling to . , 
 
 Many thanks. 
 
 Thank you (literally, thanks shall 
 you have). 
 
 Come here. 
 
 Wait a little. 
 
 Do you speak Danish—Norwegian ? 
 I cannot speak Norwegian. 
 
 You must speak slowly. 
 
 Do you understand me ? 
 
 Yes, I understand you very well. 
 
 I cannot understand you. 
 
 What o’clock is it ? 
 
 It is two o’clock. 
 
 It is half-past one. 
 
 God Morgen! 
 
 Hvor staar det til ? 
 
 Jeg takker, meget vel. 
 
 Veer saa god at tage Plads or at 
 sidde ned. 
 
 Sid ned et Oieblik. 
 
 Hvor skal De hen ? 
 
 Vis mig Veien. 
 
 Hvilken er Veien ? 
 
 Men naar sees vi nu igien ? 
 
 Sees vi saa i Aften ? 
 
 Om A ftenen er jeg hjemme. 
 
 Hvad Tid ? 
 
 Omtrent Klokken sex eller syv. 
 Maajeg da vente Dem ? 
 
 God Dag. 
 
 Farvel! Adieu! Adje! 
 
 God Aften. 
 
 Jeg heder om Forladelse. 
 
 Jeg veed ikke. 
 
 Det forndjer mig meget at see Dem. 
 Jeg er Dem meget forbunden. 
 
 Jeg kommer fra . . . 
 
 Jeg reiser til . . . 
 
 Mange Tak. 
 
 Tak skal De have. 
 
 Kom hid. 
 
 Bie gran, or Ventet lille, or Bie lio. 
 Taler De Dansk—Norsk ? 
 
 Jeg kan ikke tale Norsk. 
 
 De maa tale langsomt. 
 
 Forstaaer De mig ? 
 
 Ja, jeg forstaaer Dem meget vel. 
 Jeg kan ikke forstaae Dem. 
 
 Hvor mange er Klokken nu ? 
 Klokken er to. 
 
 Den er halv to. 
 
 * In using the sentences which imply command, the customary form of courtesy, “ Yaer 
 saa god,” should be prefixed, see 4th sentence. 
 
 [Denmark.'] C 3 
 
SENTENCES FOE COMMON USE. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 24 b 
 
 It is three-quarters past two. 
 
 Is it possible ? 
 
 What is that called ? 
 
 How far is it to . . . ? 
 
 How many miles is it from here 
 to ... ? 
 
 Is the road good ? 
 
 Did you ever travel this way before ? 
 Are there any good inns upon the 
 road ? 
 
 Is the road safe ? 
 
 Drive faster—slower. 
 
 How far is it to the next station ... ? 
 Can you not drive two stages ? 
 
 To the right—To the left. 
 
 Can I have a carriole to ... ? 
 
 How many horses can I have ? 
 
 How long must we wait ? 
 
 What conveyance can I have to... ? 
 
 Horse—immediately. 
 
 How much must I pay for each 
 horse ? 
 
 How much must I give the pos¬ 
 tillion ? 
 
 Can I depend on having fresh 
 horses on the road ? 
 
 I want a saddle-horse. 
 
 I shall perform the journey on 
 horseback. 
 
 I have but little luggage. 
 
 I want a cart for luggage. 
 
 Where is the day-book ? 
 
 Where is the postboy ? 
 
 Where do we change horses ? 
 
 Where are the horses ? 
 
 The horses were ordered for one 
 o’clock. 
 
 Put grease on the wheels. 
 
 Is there a ferry ? 
 
 Put me over the river. 
 
 How much must we pay for the 
 passage ? 
 
 How much does a place in the 
 vessel cost ? 
 
 Den er tre qvarteer till tre. 
 
 Er det muligt ? 
 
 Hvad kaldes dette ? 
 
 Hvor langt er det til . . . ? 
 
 Hvor mange Mile er det herfra 
 til . . . ? 
 
 Er Veien god ? 
 
 Har De reist denne Vei for ? 
 
 Findes gode Gjxstgiversteder paa 
 Veien ? 
 
 Er Veien silcker ? 
 
 Kjdr hurtigere — sagtere. 
 
 Hvor langt er det til nseste Shift e . . .? 
 Hand du ikke kjore to Shifter ? 
 
 Til Hoire—Til Venstre. 
 Kanjegfaae Karjol til . . .? 
 
 Hvor mange Heste kan jeg haver da ? 
 Hvor Isenge steal vi vente for der 
 komme ? 
 
 Hvad Slags Befordringkan jeg faae 
 til ... ? 
 
 Hest — strax. 
 
 Hvor meget maa jeg betale for hver 
 Hest ? 
 
 Hvor meget maa jeg betale til Kud- 
 skenl 
 
 Kan jeg gidre Regning paa overalt 
 at finde friske Heste ? 
 
 Jeg onsker Hest med Sadel. 
 
 Jeg vil gjore Reisen tilhest. 
 
 Jeg har kun ubetydeligt Toi. 
 
 Jeg behover en Kjxrre for mit Toi. 
 Hvor er Skydsbogen (Dagbogen) ? 
 Hvor er Skydsgutten ? 
 
 Hvor shifter man Heste ? 
 
 Hvor ere Hestene ? 
 
 Hestene vare bestilte til klokken eet. 
 
 Smore Hiulene. 
 
 Er der nogen Fxrge ? 
 
 Suit mig over Elven. 
 
 Hvor meget maa man betale for Over- 
 farten ? 
 
 Hvor meqet koster en Plads paa Ski- 
 bet? 
 
Denmark. 
 
 SENTENCES FOR COMMON USE. 
 
 24c 
 
 I wish to go to . .. in the steamer. 
 
 When does the steamer go ? 
 
 Can I have this berth ? 
 
 Is there no room ? 
 
 Is there no boat here ? 
 
 Can you procure me a boat with a 
 couple of rowers ? 
 
 Go ashore. 
 
 Let the boat drop down. 
 
 Can I get a horse directly ? 
 
 Is this the road to .... ? 
 
 Can I sleep here to-night ? 
 
 Can I have a bed here ? 
 
 Can I see my bed ? 
 
 Can I get anything to eat ? 
 
 What kind of meat is there ? 
 
 Some roast (boiled) chicken—bacon 
 — roast beef—beefsteak — mutton 
 (lamb) chops—veal-cutlets. 
 
 What can you give us for supper ? 
 Give us whatever you have. 
 
 How long before it will be ready? 
 
 I am hungry : I am thirsty. 
 
 Give me something to eat and drink. 
 What do you like to have ? 
 
 Fetch me some wine, bread and 
 cheese (English, Swiss, Dutch). 
 Have you any white-bread ? 
 
 Give me a plate, please—a glass— 
 wine-glass—tumbler. 
 
 Let me have a cup of coffee—a basin 
 of milk. 
 
 Can we have some (soft-boiled) eggs ? 
 Bring me a bottle of beer. 
 
 Have you any beer ? 
 
 Bring me a glass of brandy (hot 
 brandy-and-water). 
 
 Shut the door, window. 
 
 Light a fire in the stove. 
 
 Not too much. 
 
 Bring me a tub with some cold 
 water. 
 
 I wish to breakfast. 
 
 Give me some dinner—supper. 
 
 Jeg onsker at gaae til . . . med 
 Bampskibet. 
 
 Hvad Tid gaaer DampsMbet ? 
 
 Kan jeg faae denne Koie ? 
 
 Findes ingen Plads ? 
 
 Findes ingen Baad her ? 
 
 Kan man skaffe mig en Baad et 
 Par Roerkarle ? 
 
 Gaae til Land. 
 
 Lade Baaden slippe ned. 
 
 Kan jeg faae en Hest strax ? 
 
 Er dette Veien til .... ? 
 
 Kan jeg ligge her inat ? 
 
 Kan jeg faae Seng her ? 
 
 Kan jeg faae semin Seng ? 
 
 Kan jeg faae noget at spise ? 
 
 Hvad Slags Kjod er der ? 
 
 Nogle stegt ( kogt ) Kylling — Flesk — 
 Oxesteg — Bceuf—Faare (Lammej 
 oteletter—Kal ve-coteletter. 
 
 Hvad kan De give os til Aftens ? 
 
 Giv os hvad Be har. 
 
 Naar kan den blive fserdig ? 
 
 Jeg er sulten: jeg er torstig. 
 
 Giv mig noget at spise og drikke. 
 Hvad behager Be ? 
 
 Hent mig Viin , Brod og Ost (enge 
 sveitser, hollandsk). 
 
 Hav Be Hvede-brod ? 
 
 Vser saa god at give mig en Tallerken 
 et Glas — Viinglas — Olglas. 
 
 Lade mig faae en Kop Kaffe—en 
 Bolle Melk. 
 
 Kan vi faa nogle ( blod-kogtej Mg ? 
 Bring mig et Flask 01. 
 
 Har de 01 ? 
 
 Lad mig faa et glas cognac ( Toddy ). 
 
 Luk Boren, Vinduet. 
 
 Gjor lid i Ovnen, or Lseg noget 
 Ovnen. 
 
 Hike formeget. 
 
 Bring mig et Vandkar med koldt 
 Vand. 
 
 Jeg bnsker at spise Frokost. 
 
 Giv mir Middags Mad—Aftens Mad. 
 
SENTENCES FOB COMMON USE. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 24 d 
 
 When can we have tea ? 
 
 We shall want breakfast at ... ? 
 
 What do you say ? 
 
 Who is there ? 
 
 Come in. 
 
 What do you want ? 
 
 Stand still. 
 
 Go away. 
 
 Don’t touch. 
 
 Let go. 
 
 I shall walk. 
 
 Are you ready ? 
 
 Are our rooms ready ? 
 
 Is my bed made ? 
 
 Bring me a washhand basin. 
 
 Bring me a towel. 
 
 Bring me hot water. 
 
 Send the dirty clothes to the washer¬ 
 woman. 
 
 Wake me to-morrow early. 
 
 Wake me at . . . o’clock. 
 
 Bring me a candle. 
 
 How far is the church ? 
 
 What time does the service begin? 
 Where is the clergyman’s house ? 
 
 I should like to dine at . . o’clock— 
 in a quarter of an hour—in half 
 an hour—in three-quarters of an 
 hour. 
 
 Where does the doctor live ? 
 
 Dry my clothes. 
 
 Clean my boots. 
 
 Bring me my shoes. 
 
 How much do we owe you ? 
 
 What does this cost ? 
 
 It is very dear. 
 
 Put the horse to. 
 
 It is far too much. 
 
 Give me the bill. 
 
 What have we to pay ? 
 
 The bill is reasonable. 
 
 Here is your money. 
 
 The bill is too much. 
 
 I will not pay more than 4 marks. 
 
 Hvor snart kan vi faa Tea ? 
 
 Vi maa have Frokost bestent Klokken 
 
 . . .? 
 
 Uvad siger De ? 
 
 Hvem er der ? 
 
 Kom ind. 
 
 Hvad onsker De ? 
 
 Staae stille. 
 
 Gaae bort. i 
 
 Dor ikke. 
 
 Lad gaae. 
 
 Jeg skal spadsere. 
 
 Er De fserdig ? 
 
 Ere vore Veerelser istand ? 
 
 Er min Seng redet ? 
 
 Bring mig et Vadskefad. 
 
 Bring mig et Haandklxde. 
 
 Bring mig hed Vand. 
 
 Send det smudsede Toi til Vaske - 
 konen. 
 
 Vsek mig imorgen tidlig. 
 
 Vsek mig imorgen Klohken . . . 
 Skaffe mig et Lys. 
 
 Hvor langt er det til Kirken ? 
 
 Hvad Tid begynder Gudstjenesten ? 
 Hvor langt er det til Prsestegaarden ? 
 Jeg vil gjerne spise til Middag Klok- 
 ken — oto et kvarteer—em en halv 
 Time—om tre kvarteer. 
 
 Hvor boer Lsegen ? 
 
 Tor mine Klseder. 
 
 Borst mine Stovler. 
 
 Bring mig mine Skoe. 
 
 Hvor meget ere vi Dem skyldige ? 
 Hvad koster den ? 
 
 Det er meget dynt. 
 
 Spsende for. 
 
 Det er alt formeget. 
 
 Giv mig Regningen. 
 
 Hvad har vi at betale ? 
 
 Regningen er ganske billig. 
 
 Her ere Benge.no. 
 
 Regningen er for hoi. 
 
 Jeg vil ikke betale mere end 4 Mark. 
 
( 25 ) 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 *,* The names of places are printed in black in those routes where they are described. 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 1 London to Copenhagen by 
 
 Liibeck, by Sea and Land.. 26 
 
 2 London to Copenhagen, by 
 
 Hamburg (Altona), Kiel, 
 and Korsdr. 28 
 
 3 Rostock to Copenhagen via 
 
 Nykjbbing (Nykopen) .. 33 
 
 4 Stettin to Copenhagen .. 34 
 
 5 Stralsund to Copenhagen 
 
 via Malmb. 34 
 
 6 London to Copenhagen via 
 
 Hamburg—Altona, Flens- 
 borg, Kolding, Fredericia, 
 Odense, Nyborg, Korsor, 
 
 and Eoeskilde. 
 
 6AFlensborg to Glucksburg, 
 Sdnderborg, Diippel, and 
 the Isle of Als. 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 7 Flensborg to Husum, Ton- 
 
 ning, and The Frisian 
 Islands . 47 
 
 8 Copenhagen (Danish Kjdben- 
 
 havn). 49 
 
 9 Sealand and the adjoining 
 
 smaller Islands .. .. 70 
 
 10 Elsinore (Helsingor), Frede- 
 
 riksborg, and North Sea- 
 land . 73 
 
 11 Copenhagen to Eoeskilde, 
 
 Eingsted and Soro .. .. SO 
 
 12 Moen. Falster, Lolland, and 
 
 the South of Sealand .. 85 
 
 34 13 Island of Bornholm .. .. 89 
 
 14 Fyen . 93 
 
 15 East Jutland . 94 
 
 45 1 16 West Jutland .106 
 
 LAND AND SEA ROUTES TO DENMARK. 
 
 Direct communication by steam is 
 now established in the summer 
 months between London and various 
 ports on the East Coast of Great 
 Britain, on the one side, and Copen¬ 
 hagen, and other Danish ports on 
 the other. But as these boats are 
 mostly calculated for goods traffic, 
 the accommodation for passengers is 
 not very good, and they cannot be 
 recommended to persons who travel 
 for pleasure, except on the score of 
 cheapness. The steamers from Lon¬ 
 don to St. Petersburg, on the con¬ 
 trary, are very good and comfortable 
 vessels, and, as they stop at Copen¬ 
 hagen, they afford to lovers of a 
 
 sea passage a direct and easy route. 
 But by far the majority of travellers 
 enter Denmark from the South, by 
 Hamburg or Liibeck. The steam¬ 
 ers from London to Hamburg are 
 tolerably good vessels, and as they 
 keep close to the coast, the passage 
 is often very pleasant in summer, 
 and always preferable to that round 
 the Skaw. We refer, with regard to 
 this, to our second route. The 
 quickest modes of reaching Copen¬ 
 hagen from London are, however, 
 by land, through Belgium, via 
 Flushing and Bremen, or from Ham¬ 
 burg by the route of Kiel and Korsor, 
 crossing the Baltic between these 
 
26 E0T7TE 1. -LONDON TO COPENHAGEN BY LUBECK. Denmark. 
 
 two places by night (Route 2), or by 
 Rendsborg and Flensborg to Korsor, 
 either by steamer between the last 
 two places, or by rail via Fredericia 
 and the island of Fyen (Route 6). 
 In summer the distance between Lon¬ 
 don and Copenhagen may be accom¬ 
 plished in 36 hours via Calais or 
 Flushing, Hamburg, Kiel and Korsor, 
 and by any of the other routes in 
 about 60 hours. 
 
 For fuller details as to the land 
 routes the traveller is referred to the 
 Handbook for North Germany. 
 
 With regard to routes through 
 Denmark, it has been thought most 
 practical to describe the larger is¬ 
 lands and the province of Jutland 
 separately. The network of steam¬ 
 boat lines and railways is so com¬ 
 plete, that routes may be combined 
 in many equally serviceable ways. 
 
 ROUTE 1. 
 
 LONDON TO COPENHAGEN BY LUBECK, 
 BY SEA AND LAND. 
 
 The trains leave London about 
 8 o’clock every evening for the 
 Continent, in connection with the 
 steamers from Queensborough to 
 Flushing. From Flushing the 
 traveller proceeds in about 10 hrs. 
 via Munster, Osnabruck, Bremen, 
 to Harburg, and across the two 
 new magnificent rly. bridges over 
 the Elbe to the Pariser Bahnhof in 
 Hamburg (Rte. 2), reached about 
 9 - 30 p.m., and thence, from the station 
 in the Klosterthor, the line proceeds 
 
 in 'about 2 hrs. (38 m.) to Liibeck, 
 whence steamer during the summer 
 months to Copenhagen daily about 
 4 P.M. 
 
 A full description of this remark¬ 
 able old town is found in the Hand¬ 
 book for North Germany, but as it 
 well deserves a day’s exploration by 
 travellers en route for Denmark, we 
 shall briefly notice the principal 
 objects of interest. 
 
 Liibeck (Inns: Stadt Hamburg, 
 Diififeke’s H. ; Hahn’s H., fair ; 
 Topfer’s H.; cab from station to 
 town, 60 pf.), the principal member 
 of the Hanseatic League, has pre¬ 
 served the aspect and character of 
 antiquity to a high degree. The 
 gabled houses, the curious ancient 
 gateways, the peculiar architectural 
 style of the churches and public 
 buildings, which are all of red and 
 black bricks (Brick-Gothic), give 
 it a very picturesque exterior, and 
 the habits of the inhabitants, their 
 extreme cleanliness, the arrange¬ 
 ment of the houses, with large vesti¬ 
 bules serving all manner of purposes, 
 remind us more of Holland than 
 of any other country. The ramparts 
 are of modern origin, and now con¬ 
 verted into pretty walks; the an¬ 
 cient walls are almost entirely de¬ 
 stroyed, but the Holsteinthor near the 
 station, and the still more curious 
 Burgthor, both from the 15th century, 
 are yet preserved. The churches of 
 Liibeck are of considerable size, and 
 have enormous towers and spires ; 
 but the ground being rather unfa¬ 
 vourable for such huge structures, 
 these latter are considerably often 
 out of the perpendicular. The 
 finest is 
 
 St. Mary's, in the centre of the 
 town (open from 10 till 1; sacristan 
 lives opposite, 4, Mengstrasse), with 
 spires 344 feet high, an exceedingly 
 lofty building, which was completed 
 in 1304. Besides the brasses and 
 
Denmark. 
 
 27 
 
 ROUTE 1.-LUBECK ; TRAVEMUNDE. 
 
 the wood carvings, two pictures by 
 Overbeck, who was a native of Lii- 
 beck, are here to be seen, namely, 
 one in a chapel to the left, “ Entomb¬ 
 ment of the body of the Saviour,” 
 and in the chapel behind the high 
 altar, the “ Entry of our Lord into 
 Jerusalem.” In a chapel to the 
 left there is a “Dance of Death,” 
 painted in 1163, viz. 35 years before 
 the time of Holbein; and further 
 on, against a pillar, a beautiful pic¬ 
 ture attributed to Jan Mostaert, 
 painted in 1518 in three divisions, 
 on the exterior “Adam and Eve,” 
 inside, the “Nativity,” “Adoration 
 of the Magi,” and “Flight into 
 Egypt.” Behind the high altar 
 there is a remarkable clock (date 
 1405) with a procession of figures, 
 the Emperor and 7 Electors of the 
 German Empire, passing before the 
 Saviour at 12 o’clock. 
 
 The Cathedral , repaired in 1874 
 (sacristan, Hartengrube 73), at the 
 southern extremity of the town, has 
 some fine brasses and bronzes, but 
 particularly an exceedingly valuable 
 altarpiece painted by Memling in 
 1491, and regarded as his master¬ 
 piece, with scenes of the Passion 
 inside, and figures of saints on the 
 shutters. 
 
 St. Catherine’s and St. Peter’s are 
 also worth a visit by the connoisseur 
 of architecture, whilst the Jacobi- 
 kirclie contains some good pictures. 
 The Schiffergesellschaft, an old guild 
 house, and the Kaufleute-Companie, 
 as well as the Hospital of the Holy 
 Ghost, contain good carvings, &c. 
 The Hotel de Ville or Rathhaus, near 
 the St. Mary’s Church, is a very 
 peculiar structure, but the inside is 
 too much altered to give an idea of 
 its ancient splendour. 
 
 The eastern part of Holstein is 
 well timbered and rich in lakes; and 
 there are a number of pretty excur¬ 
 sions to Eutin, Ploen, Preetz, &c. 
 
 The steamers for Copenhagen start 
 in the afternoon, early enough to 
 reach the open sea before dusk, and 
 perform the passage of 154 m. in 
 about 16 hrs. They run daily, ex¬ 
 cept Saturday, from April 1 to 
 Sept. 30. Fare, 18 marks. There 
 are also steamers from Liibeck to 
 Christiania, Stockholm and St. Pe¬ 
 tersburg about twice weekly. The 
 course of the river is very winding, 
 and although deep enough for large 
 vessels, it is very narrow. The steam¬ 
 boat cannot therefore proceed at full 
 speed. The banks offer nothing of 
 interest, but the spires of Liibeck are 
 constantly showing themselves over 
 the trees and houses, now in one, 
 now in another direction, owing to 
 the tortuous course of the river. At 
 the mouth of the Trave, where it tra¬ 
 verses a sort of brackish lake called 
 Pollnitzer Wyck, lies 
 
 Travemiinde (Inns : H. de Russie; 
 Stadt Liibeck, &c.), a sea-bathing 
 place much visited from Liibeck, and 
 formerly of importance because large 
 vessels were obliged to unload, at 
 least partly there—an inconvenience 
 which has been overcome by the 
 deepening of the river. A steamer 
 runs several times daily to Trave- 
 miinde from Liibeck and back. 
 
 Shortly after passing the little 
 town, the lighthouse is seen on the 
 left, and now the steamer makes 
 across the Baltic in a straight line 
 towards N.E. for the Sound. To 
 the left and right the coasts of Hol¬ 
 stein and Mecklenburg, presenting 
 wooded hills with large country 
 houses, stretch away and disappear 
 by degrees, whilst night is setting 
 in, and only the lighthouses at Burg, 
 on the island of Femern to the left, 
 and Dagerort in Mecklenburg to 
 the right, indicate the presence of 
 land for some time yet. In the early 
 morning (about 4 a.m.) the steamer 
 passes the island of Moen, with its 
 white cliffs, and then steers due 
 
28 ROUTE 2.—-LONDON TO COPENHAGEN BY HAMBURG. Denmark. 
 
 N., entering the Sound, and leaving 
 the south-eastern extremity of Swe¬ 
 den to the right. For a short while 
 the sea is often a little rough here, 
 owing to the narrowness of the 
 strait through which the waters of 
 the Baltic seek an outlet, but it is 
 nothing to disturb tolerably good 
 sailors. The headland on the coast 
 of Sealand passed to the left is called 
 
 Stevns Klint (see Rte. 12), and pre¬ 
 sents white cliffs with regular strata 
 of black flint, but being without 
 trees they are not so fine as the cliffs 
 of Moen. On the top of the cliff, in 
 dangerous proximity to the edge, 
 stands Hoirup Church, built in 1357 
 by a thankful mariner in memory of 
 Ms escape from a watery grave. The 
 legend says that owing to the gradual 
 destruction of the cliff by the sea, the 
 •church would long ago have ceased 
 to exist, if it were not that every 
 Christmas night it is moved inwards 
 as much as a cock’s step. 
 
 Farther on the steamer enters the 
 “ Drogden,” a rather narrow chan¬ 
 nel of deep water, through which 
 almost all the ships which enter or 
 leave the Baltic must pass. The dis¬ 
 tance between the low-lying island 
 of Amager to the left and the Swedish 
 coast is more than 20 miles; but 
 there is a submarine chain of lime¬ 
 stone rocks connecting the two coasts, 
 forming in one place an island, Salt- 
 holm, which scarcely shows over the 
 water's edge, and in other places 
 shallow banks separated by deep 
 channels. Of these latter Drogden 
 is the most favourable for naviga¬ 
 tion, and the ships crowd in here as 
 closely as the vehicles on a much-fre¬ 
 quented road; most of them anchor 
 rather than enter this passage by 
 night. Presently the numerous ships 
 iu the roadstead of Copenhagen, the 
 forts defending the entrance to the 
 harbour, and the towers and spires 
 of the town are plainly distinguish¬ 
 able to the left, and rounding the 
 island-battery of Tre Kroner, the 
 
 steamer soon enters the harbour, and 
 lands her passengers at the custom¬ 
 house pier. 
 
 Copenhagen, see Rte. 8. 
 
 ROUTE 2. 
 
 LONDON TO COPENHAGEN BY HAMBURG 
 (ALTONA), KIEL, AND KDRSOE. 
 
 For the land route as far as Ham¬ 
 burg see Rte. 1. Travellers arrive 
 in Hamburg at the Pariser JBahnhof, 
 which is about h Eng. m. from the 
 Klosterthor, whence the trains start 
 for Kiel. Luggage booked through 
 is conveyed by the company, but 
 passengers have to find their own 
 way from station to station. On 
 the return from Denmark luggage 
 entering Germany is examined at 
 the Pariser Bahnhof. 
 
 Sea route. —The London office ot 
 the steamer to Hamburg is in Regent 
 Circus, where berths may be secured, 
 and all necessary information ob¬ 
 tained as to time of starting, when 
 to be on board, &c. 
 
 The boats usually leave London 
 early in the day, and arrive at Ham¬ 
 burg on the morning of the second 
 day, the journey occupying in fine 
 weather 40 to 50 hours. The dis¬ 
 tance is 420 m. Fare, 2Z. 2s. The 
 General Steam Navigation Co.’s 
 steamers are fine boats, but often 
 crowded. They start three times 
 weekly from St. Katherine’s Wharf, 
 near the Custom House. Boats be¬ 
 longing to the London and Hamburg 
 Steamship Co. also start ou Tues- 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 2.-HELIGOLAND-—HAMBURG. 
 
 29 
 
 days and Fridays from the Bruns¬ 
 wick Pier, Blaekwall; and boats 
 sail from Hull four times a week, 
 and from Newcastle twice, but these 
 sea routes are not much to be recom¬ 
 mended. The greater part of the 
 first day is consumed in descending 
 the Thames, and when the steamer 
 is clear of the Goodwin Sands it is 
 generally dark. The course lies 
 across the North Sea towards the 
 coast of Holland, which is followed 
 at no great distance, unless the wind 
 is N. or N.W. and tolerably strong. 
 When passengers come on deck next 
 morning the German coast, or rather 
 some of the islands which gird that 
 coast, can usually be seen in the 
 distance, while in the middle of the 
 day the island of 
 
 Heligoland (see Rte. 56, Hand¬ 
 book for North Germany ) appears 
 to the h, and late in the afternoon 
 the steamer enters the Elbe. The 
 coasts are fiat and marshy, protected 
 against the sea by dykes of consider¬ 
 able strength. To the rt. on enter¬ 
 ing the river, 
 
 Cuxhaven, a small harbour belong¬ 
 ing to the city of Hamburg, and 
 serving as a pilot station; in the 
 summer also frequented for the pur¬ 
 pose of bathing. In the winter, 
 when the Elbe is frozen, the steamers 
 must start from here, and the dis¬ 
 tance from Cuxhaven to Hamburg 
 be performed by land via Stade —a 
 little-old fashioned fortress, where 
 formerly the Stade dues were paid 
 by vessels passing up the river. 
 The former fortress of 
 
 Gliickstadt, in Holstein, on the rt. 
 bank {Sly. to Hamburg, Kiel, &c.), 
 is still in the marshland, but for the 
 last 12 miles this bank consists of 
 wooded slopes with numerous villas 
 and well-kept gardens and parks. 
 The steamer first passes Altona, and 
 then just beyond the boundary which 
 divides this city from Hamburg, but 
 
 which from the river is quite imper¬ 
 ceptible, she lets go her anchor, un¬ 
 less the tide is high enough to allow 
 her to lie alongside the quay at 
 
 Hamburg— {Inns: Streits’ Hotel,. 
 Hotel St. Petersburg, Victoria 
 Hotel, Hotel Russie, Kronprinz, 
 all very good, on the Jungfern- 
 stieg; Hotel Belvedere, equally 
 good, on the Alsterdamm ; Zinggs 
 Hotel, near the Exchange, very 
 good for gentlemen. Many others. 
 Cab, 90 pf.; 8 pf. each trunk)—with 
 289,860 Inhab., is one of the greatest 
 commercial centres of the world. 
 Originally founded by Charlemagne, 
 the city was subject to the Dukes of' 
 Holstein, but soon became a free city r 
 and founded with Liibeck the Han¬ 
 seatic League. Hamburg has re¬ 
 mained a tree republic, though of 
 course its present position as a 
 member of the North German Em¬ 
 pire renders it dependent on this 
 political body. Formerly the city 
 had no pretension to beauty; but 
 since the great fire in 1842, the 
 whole northern part has been rebuilt, 
 and the part round the Alster basiii 
 is equal to many of the finest cities 
 of Europe. The river Alster traverses- 
 the city in several arms, widening 
 at its entrance into a square basin 
 surrounded by good buildings on the 
 three sides, viz. Alsterdamm, Jung- 
 femstieg, where nearly all the best 
 Hotels stand, and Neue Jungfern- 
 stieg. The town was formerly for¬ 
 tified with ramparts and moats; but 
 these are now converted into very 
 pretty promenades; the terminal 
 point of the ramparts on the west 
 side by the Elbe, is called Stintfang 
 or Elbholie, and from here the view 
 across the river, &c., is very interest¬ 
 ing. There are three railway sta¬ 
 tions in Hamburg: the Fariser 
 Balmhof, the Berliner, and the Lii- 
 lecker. The harbour is crowded 
 with craft from every part of the 
 world. There are few sights in 
 Hamburg, but it is a pleasant city 
 
30 
 
 ROUTE 2.- ALTONA : EXCURSIONS. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 in winch to spend a day or two. 
 The Kunsthalle (open daily, except 
 Monday) contains sculptures and 
 pictures; the Jolianneum is a Mu¬ 
 seum of Natural History and Anti¬ 
 quities. The Opera House is ca¬ 
 pable of holding 4000 persons. Ha- 
 genbeck’s collection of zoological 
 specimens for sale should be visited. 
 It has supplied most of the zoolo¬ 
 gical gardens of Europe with ani¬ 
 mals. Here were lately to be seen 
 a fine 4-year-old lion, price 4501.; 
 a lion 17 years old; ichneumons, 
 40 marks apiece; and multitudes 
 of small crocodiles, 25 marks each, 
 and increasing 15 marks for each 
 additional foot of length, until they 
 become large, when they increase 
 rapidly in value, like diamonds. 
 
 Amongst the public buildings the 
 only one really deserving of atten¬ 
 tion is the new St. Nicolas Church, 
 built from the design of Sir G. G. 
 Scott in Gothic style, instead of an 
 older building destroyed by fire in 
 1842. The Exchange is also worth 
 visiting, though more on account 
 of the animation prevailing in busi¬ 
 ness hours than of the architectural 
 merits of the building. Both are close 
 to the Jungfernstieg. 
 
 Outside the town on the west 
 side between it and Altona is the 
 new Zoological Garden , one of the 
 best in Europe, with a good re¬ 
 staurant. 
 
 Money. — The currency of the 
 German Empire is used in Ham¬ 
 burg. 1 Mark = llfd., but practi¬ 
 cally is of equal value with the Eng¬ 
 lish shilling. The Groschen is 1 \d., 
 and contains 16 pfennings. 
 
 Altona (Konigl. Hof., Bahnhofs 
 Hotel, also Restaurant and Cafe in 
 the Railway station, Holsteinisches 
 Haus, close by) originally a fishing 
 village called Altenau, from a small 
 
 river (Au) which here finds its way 
 to the Elbe, separating it from the 
 suburb St. Pauli, received privileges 
 as a market-town and other advan¬ 
 tages in the 17th centy. from the 
 Danish kings, who hoped thus to 
 draw a part of the rich trade of 
 Hamburg to their territory. The 
 Hamburgers evidently thought that 
 the scheme was likely to succeed, 
 for they nicknamed it “ All-zu-nah,” 
 that is, “ All too near,” and this 
 nickname is now the acknowledged 
 name of the city, which has 74,131 
 Inhabitants, and is a free port, 
 but contains little to interest the 
 traveller. 
 
 Excursions from Hamburg and Al¬ 
 tona .— The neighbourhood of the 
 two cities is pretty, particularly 
 along the shores of the Elbe, and 
 very pleasant drives may be made 
 (or the Ely. taken) towards tbe E. 
 to Wandsbeclc, with a royal palace 
 and a park, or towards the W. to 
 Ottensen and Blanhenese, villages on 
 the Elbe with handsome villas and 
 gardens, particularly those of two 
 of the merchant-kings, Mr. Jenish 
 of Hamburg and Mr. Baur of Altona, 
 which are open to the public. A 
 pretty view across the river from 
 the Sulberg, a hill with a restaurant 
 at Blankenese. 
 
 A new central station is projected, 
 and at present there are four railway 
 termini in Hamburg-Altona: the 
 station on the Grasbrook for the 
 line—completed 1874—to Bremen, 
 the station of the Berlin railway, 
 and that of the Liibeck railway 
 in Hamburg, and that of the 
 railway connecting the latter with 
 various points in Hamburg (Sta¬ 
 tions ; Dammthor for the hotels, &c. 
 —Klosterthor, for the railways to 
 Berlin and Liibeck). 
 
 Travellers to Denmark may pro¬ 
 ceed by the Liibeck railway, and 
 thence by steamer to Copenhagen 
 (Rte. 1), or by the Kiel railway either 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 2. -RIEL. 
 
 31 
 
 to Kiel or some other place on the 
 peninsula. 
 
 There are two principal trains 
 daily, and besides, at least in sum¬ 
 mer, an evening express at 9'25 p.ji. 
 for Kiel, meeting the Danish mail- 
 steamer there at midnight. Time 
 2J to 3 hrs. 
 
 Altona being a free port, luggage 
 is examined at the station, unless it 
 be booked to Copenhagen or any 
 place in Denmark. 
 
 The traveller can join the rly. at 
 the Klosterthor, Dammthor, or other 
 convenient station on the Verbin- 
 dungs line, or proceed direct by 
 omnibus or cab to the Altona sta¬ 
 tion, where the train stops for J hr. 
 
 The first station out of Altona is 
 Pinneberg, a pretty village with 
 woods and water, a favourite sum¬ 
 mer resort of the Altona burghers. 
 At Elmshorn (20 m.) is the junction 
 for Gliickstadt on the Elbe. 
 
 Elmshorn Junct. Stat. Branch 
 Rly. rt. to Gliickstadt on the Elbe 
 to Itzehoe, Tonning, and Husum. 
 
 Itzehoe (Helmund’s H.), a very 
 ancient but insignificant town of 
 7500 Inhab., known principally as 
 the former assembly place of the 
 nobility and other representatives 
 of the duchy of Holstein, the so- 
 called Estates of Holstein. Itzehoe 
 is on the frontier of the Holstein 
 marschland, called Dithmarschen, 
 which in the early middle ages 
 formed an independent republic, and 
 whose inhabitants of Frisian descent 
 long and bravely defended their 
 liberties against the kings of Den¬ 
 mark and the dukes of Holstein. 
 Heide and Meldorf are the two prin¬ 
 cipal places of this district. 
 
 After leaving Elmshorn the train 
 on the main line to Kiel proceeds 
 to 
 
 Neumiinster Junct. Stat. (Harm’s 
 H.), with important cloth manu¬ 
 
 factures, which, however, have suf¬ 
 fered severely by the separation of 
 the duchy from Denmark. It is an 
 important railway junction. Branch 
 Rly. E. to Ploen (prettily situated 
 between two lakes) and the small 
 sea-town of Neustadt, on the Baltic ; 
 S.E. to Oldesloe and Liibeck; N.W. 
 to Rendsburg, the main road to 
 Schleswig and Jutland (Rte. 6). 
 
 Our line is continued N. through 
 the valley of the Eider to Kiel. The 
 line from Altona to Kiel traverses 
 the poorest part of the duchy, which 
 so recently as 1840 consisted mostly 
 of moors and bogs. Now, however, 
 large tracts are cultivated. Nearer 
 to Kiel, the Eider valley presents 
 pretty lakes with wooded slopes. 
 The river Eider follows the direction 
 of the railway, and approaches to 
 within a couple of miles of the 
 Baltic, when it suddenly turns to 
 the W., and ultimately, after tra¬ 
 versing the whole peninsula, falls 
 into the North Sea. 
 
 Kiel Junct. Stat. (Inns: H. Ger¬ 
 mania, close to the station, large, 
 commodious, and well kept. H. 
 Copenhagen, commercial; Stadt 
 Hamburg; H. Kronprinzen ; H. 
 Zur Bdrse.) 
 
 Passengers for Copenhagen will, 
 without delay, hasten to the har¬ 
 bour, 6 min. walk, to secure berths 
 in the steamer. An omnibus will 
 convey them from the train. 
 
 Kiel, the chief naval arsenal of 
 the German Empire, is situated at 
 the head of the Bay or Fjord of 
 Kiel, a strong fortress of Germany, 
 on the best and safest anchorage and 
 winter harbour on the whole southern 
 coast of the Baltic. The depth of the 
 water suffices for the largest men-of- 
 war, and is continued until quite 
 close to the shore. It is an ancient 
 city, but has never been wealthy, 
 | or in possession of much commerce. 
 
32 
 
 ROUTE 2. —KIEL. 
 
 Denmark . 
 
 Since the absorption of Holstein in 
 the Prussian state, Kiel has been 
 converted into a naval station, and 
 when the works which are in progress 
 are completed, it will be “ the Sevas¬ 
 topol of the Baltic.” 
 
 The town is rendered prosperous 
 by the large garrison and the im¬ 
 mense sums expended on fortifica¬ 
 tions, &c. It has now about 40,000 
 inhabitants inclusive of garrison, and 
 possesses a University with some 
 good collections (especially that of 
 Northern antiquities removed here 
 from Flensborg by the Prussians), 
 and a library, but frequented only 
 by about 250 students. 
 
 At the N. extremity is a Ducal 
 Falace, now used for public offices, 
 &c. The Tliaulow Museum is de¬ 
 voted to a collection of carvings and 
 other objects of art chiefly produced 
 in Schleswig. Open daily. The 
 Imperial Doclnjard may be seen by 
 Germans from 9 to 12 and 2 to 6. 
 Englishmen require special per¬ 
 mission. 
 
 The situation is exceedingly 
 pretty; a sail on the bay much to 
 be recommended, and there are 
 charming drives and walks com¬ 
 manding the lovely scenery of the 
 bay in every direction, particularly 
 to Diisternbrooh (Hotel Bellevue, 
 Restaurant, &c.) on the W. shore of 
 the bay, and situated in a fine beech- 
 wood, with view over the sea. 
 
 A little further N. is Holtenau, 
 where the Eider Canal, which here 
 forms the frontier between Holstein 
 and Schleswig, and which connects the 
 river Eider and thus the North Sea 
 with the Baltic, opens into the bay. 
 This canal was made by the Danish 
 Government in the 18tli century, and 
 is still of importance for the local 
 traffic; but as the passage, owing to 
 the tortuous course of the Eider, 
 is often very tedious, and the depth 
 sufficient only for moderate-sized 
 
 ships, it has never supplied the want 
 of a short cut through the peninsula 
 to accommodate the great shipping 
 traffic to and from the Baltic. A 
 scheme is now on foot, under the 
 auspices of the Prussian Government, 
 for constructing a canal which should 
 fulfil this condition between the 
 mouth of the Elbe and the Baltic, 
 but it will be very costly, and will 
 at any rate consume several years 
 in execution. From Holtenau there 
 is a pretty walk along the canal to 
 Knoop, a manor with park. 
 
 A short branch line connects Kiel 
 with the line from Neumiinster to 
 Futin, &c., in the eastern part of Hol¬ 
 stein, a pretty day’s excursion; 
 thence Ely. to Liibeck. 
 
 The Kiel Railway station is at 
 the S. extremity of the town, but 
 the walk to the landing-place of the 
 steamer scarcely takes a quarter of 
 an hour, simply following the water¬ 
 side. Omnibus and cabs are in 
 attendance to meet the train. Lug¬ 
 gage registered to Copenhagen is 
 transferred to the steamer by the 
 Railway company. 
 
 Steamers several times a day along 
 the Kiel Fjord to Friedrichsort and 
 Laboe. 
 
 The Steamers for Korsor start 
 about midnight (fare 11 m. 30 pf.). 
 The boats are very good and com¬ 
 fortable for their size, and supper 
 (2 krs.) can be had on board. 
 The sleeping accommodation is fair. 
 Owing to the lateness of the hour of 
 departure, much of the coast cannot 
 be seen while the steamer glides 
 through the bay; but on the return 
 journey, when the steamer enters 
 the bay early in the morning, the 
 rich character of the land can be 
 appreciated. 
 
 The entrance of the harbour is 
 commanded on the W. by the strong 
 fortress of Friedrichsort, exclusively 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 8.-EOSTOCIv TO COPENHAGEN. 
 
 33 
 
 a military and naval stat., having 
 few private buildings and a very 
 poor Inn in the town. On the E. 
 are the formidable batteries of Mol- 
 tenort and Laboe. Other fortifica¬ 
 tions stud the shores of the hay 
 seawards. Soon the Baltic is reached, 
 the course kept by the steamer is 
 nearly due N., and the boat is soon 
 out of sight of land. After a pas¬ 
 sage of 6 to 8 lirs. Korsor is reached, 
 from whence the journey to Copen¬ 
 hagen is continued by train in 34 
 hrs. express (fare, 1st class, 8 kr., and 
 2nd, 6 kr.). 
 
 Twice a week (Tuesdays and 
 Fridays at 9 p.ji.) there are direct 
 steamers from Kiel to Copenhagen, 
 in about 17 hrs. (fare, 17 m. 70 pf.), 
 a pleasant sail in fine weather. 
 
 ROUTE 8. 
 
 ROSTOCK TO COPENHAGEN Via XYKJO- 
 BING (NYKOPEX). 
 
 Travellers who proceed to Copen¬ 
 hagen from Germany, or from any 
 point to the E. of Liibeck, will pro¬ 
 bably prefer to take one of the three 
 following routes. These will per¬ 
 haps be found most useful in return¬ 
 ing , particularly if any of the cities 
 of Central or Southern Europe are 
 to be visited. Rte. 3 affords varied 
 scenery, and takes the traveller 
 through the southern part of Sealand 
 and Falster. 
 
 Rostock (Inns: Hotel de Russie; 
 Stadt Hamburg; Pop. 30,000), G m. 
 
 [Denmark.'] 
 
 from the Baltic on the Warnow. 
 Birthplace of Bliicher, whose bronze 
 statue is placed in the Bliicher 
 Platz. He died in 1819. 
 
 Marienlcirche, erected 1398-1472, 
 in Northern Gothic style, containing 
 numerous monuments, and a re¬ 
 markable brass font with reliefs of 
 the 12th century. 
 
 Ducal Palace — Ratlihaus. Neither 
 of any interest. 
 
 University , founded 1419. ISO 
 to 200 students. Kepler the as¬ 
 tronomer was appointed professor 
 here in 1629 by Wallenstein. 
 
 A tower near the S. wall of the 
 town was erected in 1618 by Tycho 
 Brahe as an observatory. 
 
 Steamers run from the quay to 
 Nykjobing daily, except Sundays, in 
 June, July, and August. Thrice 
 weekly in April, May, and Sept. 
 Time, 44 to 5 hours. Fare, 7 m. 
 50 pf., or return ticket 12 m. 
 
 Nykjobing, a small sea-port in 
 the island of Falster. (Inn: Stad 
 Nykjobing, Station Hotel.) Short 
 railway runs due N. to 
 
 Orehovecl. Thence a steamer in 
 20 minutes to 
 
 Masnedsund, a sea-port in S. 
 Sealand. Trains to Copenhagen in 
 34 hours. From Nykjobing to 
 Copenhagen the time is usually 
 about 5 hours, and from Rostock to 
 Copenhagen under 10 hours. 
 
 Stations between Masnedsund and 
 Copenhagen:— 
 
 Vordingborg, Redlefsens Hotel. 
 See p. 87. 
 
 Nxstved. See p. 87. 
 
 Kjoge, Prindsen’s Hotel, See p. 
 89. 
 
 Roesliilde. (See Rte. 11.) 
 
 Thence by W. Sealand line direct 
 to Copenhagen. (See Rte. 8.) 
 
34 RTES. 4-6. -STETTIN AND LONDON TO COPENHAGEN. Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 4. 
 
 STETTIN TO COPENHAGEN. 
 
 In June, July, and August, 
 steamers run twice weekly between 
 Stettin and Copenhagen in 15 
 hrs.—42 Danish miles. Fares, 18 m. 
 and 13J m. Return tickets 30 m. 
 and 18 m. During the rest of the 
 year, once weekly. Berlin is easily 
 reached by good trains from Stettin. 
 
 Stettin ( Inns: H. de Prusse; 
 Drei Kronen; Pop. 80,000), situ¬ 
 ated on left bank of the Oder; 
 capital of Pomerania, and important 
 commercial port. 
 
 Schloss Kirclie. Tombs of the 
 Dukes of Pomerania. 
 
 Schloss. 
 
 Ilathhaus. 
 
 The voyage is without interest. 
 Stubben-harnmer on the island of 
 Riigen is passed in the evening, and 
 on the following morning the boat 
 passes between Amager and Salt- 
 holm, and soon after anchors in the 
 harbour of Copenhagen. 
 
 For Stettin and Isle of Riigen, see 
 Handbook for N. Germany. 
 
 ROUTE 5. 
 
 STRALSUND TO COPENHAGEN Via 
 MALMO. 
 
 During the summer months a 
 steamer runs thrice weekly (Monday, 
 Wednesday, and Friday) between 
 Stralsund and Malmo in 8 hrs. 
 (Fares, 18 m. and 13 m. 50 pf.) 
 Another steamer plies between 
 Malmo and Copenhagen in H hrs. 
 (Fare, 1£ kr.) 
 
 Stralsund (Inns: H. de Brande- 
 burg, Giebel’s Hotel). Pop. 30,000. 
 
 St. Nicolas Kirclie. Altarpieco, 
 monuments, and a fine brass of 
 1357. 
 
 Tower of Jacobskirche. 
 
 Rathhaus, built 1316. 
 
 Rugen, the largest of the German 
 islands, Pop. 46,000, is immediately 
 opposite to Stralsund, and is reached 
 in 10 minutes by ferry. 
 
 Malmo (Inns: Kramer's H.; H. 
 Svea). Pop. 33,000. 
 
 Castle in which Bothwell was im¬ 
 prisoned. 
 
 St. Peter's Church, built 1313. 
 
 Beautiful Rathhaus (built 1546) 
 near the harbour. 
 
 Steamers 8 times daily to Copen¬ 
 hagen. 
 
 Other Routes. 
 
 There is also direct communica¬ 
 tion between many other ports and 
 Copenhagen. Among them Aarhuus, 
 Bergen, Christiania, Gothenburg, 
 Hamburg, Horsens, Hull, Lands- 
 krona, Leith, Stockholm, and Yeile. 
 
 ROUTE 6. 
 
 LONDON TO COPENHAGEN Vid HAMBURG 
 — ALTONA, FLENSBORG, HOLDING, 
 FEEDERICIA, ODENSE, NYBORG, 
 KORSOR, AND ROESKULDE. 
 
 The completion of the railways in 
 Schleswig and North Jutland as well 
 as on the island of Fyen has opened 
 a quick line of communication be¬ 
 tween Hamburg and Copenhagen, 
 with a through train each way daily, 
 namely by rail as far as Fredericia 
 in North Jutland, thence by steam- 
 ferry to Fyen, through this island 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 6.-RENDSBURG. 
 
 35 
 
 by rail to Nyborg, thence by steamer I 
 to Korsor, in time to reach the even- J 
 ing express to Copenhagen. As,' 
 however, it is a fatiguing journey, 
 and as the objects of interest to be 
 noticed are many, we shall divide it 
 into 3 Routes—Hamburg to Flens- 
 borg, Flensborg to the Frisian 
 Islands, and Flensborg to Copen¬ 
 hagen. 
 
 For Hajiburg, see Rte. 2. 
 
 Starting from the railway station 
 at Hamburg at 6 a.m., where direct 
 tickets to Copenhagen can be ob¬ 
 tained and luggage registered all the 
 way, the traveller proceeds as far as 
 
 Neumunster Junct. Stat., as in 
 Rte. 2. Here the train is divided, 
 and, whilst a part is despatched to 
 Kiel, the main part continues the 
 journey to 
 
 Rendsburg Stat., 67J m. from 
 Altona, 9 a.m. (Inns: Stadt Ham¬ 
 burg u. Liibeck, Deutscher Kaiser; 
 Railway Hotel), where the rly. 
 crosses the Eider from Holstein into 
 Schleswig. Pop. 11,100. The river 
 is here divided into several branches, 
 and as this circumstance in olden 
 times facilitated the fording of it, 
 this place became the usual place of 
 entrance from the south to the 
 Danish realm. A castle was built 
 here early in the Middle Ages, and 
 a town soon sprung up under its 
 protection. Afterwards the whole 
 place was converted into a fortress, 
 according to Vauban’s principles, 
 with ramparts and moats, and pro¬ 
 tected to a great extent by inunda¬ 
 tions. During the Schleswig-Hol¬ 
 stein rebellion, Rendsburg served 
 as the principal seat of the insur¬ 
 gents, and after the suppression of 
 the movement the fortifications were 
 mostly thrown down; nor could they 
 nowadays have been of the slightest 
 use in war. The trade is favoured by 
 its position on the Eider, of which a 
 part above Rendsburg has been 
 converted into a canal, with several 
 
 locks, and connected with the Baltic 
 by the Eider Canal, which opens 
 into the bay of Kiel at Holtenau. 
 The last sluice towards the W. 
 stands in Rendsburg itself. 
 
 The duchy of Schleswig, until 
 1861 a part of Denmark, has an 
 extent of about 3300 Eng. sq. miles 
 with about 420,000 inhabitants. 
 
 The Cimbrian peninsula, of which 
 the duchy forms part, consists, as 
 we have stated in the general ac¬ 
 count of Denmark, of an elevated 
 plain, with a very gentle fall to 
 the W., but ending abruptly on the 
 eastern coast. The plain is upon 
 the whole sandy, and has much 
 standing water, presenting a most 
 uninteresting aspect, while the east¬ 
 ern coast is fertile and well wooded. 
 The railway through the duchy of 
 Schleswig has for economical reasons 
 been laid on the table-land, and the 
 towns on the E. coast, which are 
 situated at the foot of the hills, 
 mostly at the head of deep inlets 
 from the sea, are connected with 
 the trunk line by means of short 
 branches. Although, therefore, al¬ 
 most every one of the towns along 
 the E. coast is individually prettily 
 situated, the railway journey through 
 the duchy, without stopping any¬ 
 where, has nothing attractive. 
 
 Soon after leaving Rendsburg, go¬ 
 ing to the N., we observe a range of 
 hills to the rt., the so-called Hilt- 
 tener Berge, which, though scarcely 
 reaching a greater height than 
 400 ft., nevertheless look very im¬ 
 posing, because they are seen across 
 a dead plain which seems wider than 
 it really is. In ancient times they 
 were covered by an extensive forest 
 of which but little remains; but the 
 landscape near and amongst these 
 hills is very pretty, and may be visited 
 during a drive from Schleswig. 
 
 The next towns of importance are 
 Schleswig and Flensborg, each of 
 which affords an excellent centre 
 for excursions. Schleswig presents, 
 however, but little interest. It may, 
 d 2 
 
 
36 
 
 ROUTE 6.-SCHLESWIG AND ENVIRONS. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 by leaving Hamburg early, easily be 
 visited on the way to Flensborg. 
 
 Schlesivig and Environs. 
 
 Schleswig Stat., 2 miles from 
 the town, near Gottorp {Inn: Stadt 
 Hamburg, halfway between the stat. 
 and the town, very good). 
 
 Schleswig, 82* m.; 9 - 40 a.m. 
 
 {Inns : Stadt Hamburg, best; Stehns 
 Hotel), with 14,600 Inhab., is situated 
 at the head of the Slie (Germ. 
 Schlei), a remarkable inlet from the 
 Baltic, 25 English miles long, nar¬ 
 row and winding. Though really 
 situated on the sea, it is practically 
 an inland town without trade or 
 shipping, subsisting mainly as the 
 seat of several government authori¬ 
 ties, courts of justice, &c. 
 
 In the town itself the most re¬ 
 markable building is the Cathedral , 
 built in the 15tli century, when a 
 fire had mostly destroyed the older 
 building. On this spot the first 
 cburcli in Denmark was erected in 
 827. It was renewed several times, 
 and of these earlier buildings frag¬ 
 ments remain of which the oldest 
 date from the 11th century. The 
 building has a detached belfry and 
 many interesting architectural de¬ 
 tails, but the principal object of in¬ 
 terest is the Altarpiece of carved oalc, 
 formerly in the monastery at Bordes- 
 holm in Holstein, and in 1666 trans¬ 
 ferred to its present place. The 
 artist was Hans Briiggemann from 
 Husum, and it was finished in 1521. 
 The principal subject is the Passion, 
 and the figures are executed with 
 great ability. The church is full of 
 monuments, amongst them a beauti¬ 
 ful marble monument by an Italian 
 sculptor, Caprara, over the sepulchre 
 of King Frederih I. of Denmark 
 and Norway (1533), his Queen and 
 one of the Royal Princes. Besides 
 the altar and this monument, the 
 chancel contains an interesting me- 
 ' tal font of 1480, a very fine episcopal 
 
 baldachin, and 36 well-carved oak 
 stalls in Gothic style. The burial 
 chapel of the Dukes of Holstein- 
 Gottorp, who resided in Schleswig, 
 is also very handsome. Through 
 richly carved doors the spectator 
 may behold the richly adorned 
 coffins of the Ducal dead exposed 
 to view. The cloisters with pointed 
 arches are unfortunately mostly 
 bricked up. 
 
 The church of St. Michael was 
 formerly a round church built of 
 granite and Rhenish Tufa stone, but 
 has been so much altered in the 
 course of time that but little is left 
 of the original building, which dates 
 from the time of the Crusades. To 
 students of the history of architec¬ 
 ture it is very interesting. 
 
 The Convent of St. John, with its 
 well-preserved cloisters, and the 
 church, with a very remarkable Rady 
 Chapel and highly interesting car¬ 
 ving, is well worth a visit. The build¬ 
 ing presents a mixture of style, ori¬ 
 ginally Byzantine with round arches, 
 which have been partly altered into 
 pointed ones. The earliest notice of 
 this convent is from 1250, but it was 
 doubtless much older. It is now an 
 institution for unmarried ladies of 
 the nobility. 
 
 In the quarter of the town nearest 
 the Stat., called Frederiksberg, 
 stands the Castle of Gottorp, a plain 
 whitewashed building originally 
 built for an episcopal residence; it 
 existed already in the 12th century, 
 but the present structure dates from 
 the 16th century, and even later. 
 It served as a residence for the Dukes 
 of Holstein Gottorp, who possessed 
 (1526-1720) a part of Schleswig as 
 vassals of the King of Denmark, 
 besides a part of Holstein, which 
 they held in fief of the Emperors of 
 Germany. In 1720 Frederik IV. 
 of Denmark took possession of their 
 territory in Schleswig, and in 1773, 
 when the ducal family had ascended 
 the throne of Russia, the Danish 
 Government acquired their posses- 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 6.-THE DANEVIRKE. 
 
 37 
 
 sion in Holstein in exchange for the 
 duchy of Oldenburg. The rooms 
 of the castle, which are now used 
 for public offices, are mostly vaulted. 
 The chapel is very fine, and has a 
 handsome altar of oak with orna¬ 
 ments of ebony and massive silver. 
 
 Schleswig is principally interest¬ 
 ing on account of its being intimately 
 connected with Danish history, par¬ 
 ticularly of the Middle Ages. Its 
 original name was Jledeby (not to be 
 confounded with the ancient village 
 of Haddeby a few miles off across 
 the Slie), but in the 11th century 
 it was also called Sliasvic; it is men¬ 
 tioned as early as the 9th century as a 
 great emporium of trade belonging to 
 the Danes. It was the capital of the 
 Danish King Gotrik, who fought 
 against Charlemagne, and was long 
 the most important town in Den¬ 
 mark. Here, as before stated, the 
 first Christian church was built, and 
 the first bishop established. The 
 town was strongly fortified, and it 
 served as headquarters for the Da¬ 
 nish army, which in those days was 
 permanently placed at 
 
 The Danevirke, which once passed 
 close to the town, and was one of 
 the most remarkable historical monu¬ 
 ments of the North. 
 
 At the time when the Danevirke 
 was first constructed, the lower 
 course of the Eider, as well as its 
 tributaries the Treen and the Sorg, 
 were surrounded by marshlands and 
 watery meadows impassable for an 
 army. There intervened between 
 these tracts and the innermost part 
 of the Slie only a space of a few 
 miles, which consequently alone 
 had to be defended against an 
 enemy advancing from the south, and 
 the kings and rulers of Denmark 
 therefore at a very early, even pre¬ 
 historic time, attempted to fortify 
 this position. The earliest work of 
 which history speaks is the “ Kur- 
 grav,” S. of the Danevirke, of which 
 now only vestiges remain. This 
 was constructed against the threat¬ 
 
 ened invasion of Charlemagne. 
 Queen Thyra raised a far more ex¬ 
 tensive work to the north of this, 
 stretching from Bustorf, just outside 
 Schleswig, to Hollingstedt, on the 
 Treen river, a distance of 9 English 
 miles, and flanked by several mighty 
 fortifications, as the Oldenborg, and 
 the now so-called Riesendamm, or 
 Giant’s Dyke. The whole nation 
 worked at it for three years, and it 
 consisted of a rampart 30 to 40 feet 
 high, generally with deep moats, 
 which was rendered less accessible 
 by an enormous palisading of oak 
 timber. Where the soil was too wet 
 the rampart was laid on a ground¬ 
 work of timber to prevent its slip¬ 
 ping down. 
 
 Behind this work King Harold 
 Blaatand, with a united Danish and 
 Norwegian army, braved for a long 
 time the German Emperor Otlio; 
 but at length the enemy succeeded 
 in setting fire to the palisading, and 
 thus got the upper hand. Of this 
 fire the vestiges are still to be seen. 
 Harold’s son, King Svein, who, 
 during his warfare in England, had 
 to take special care to secure the 
 frontier of his kingdom at home, 
 restored the Danevirke and finished 
 it with a wall of hewn stones. 
 Again, about the year 1180, King 
 Valdemar fortified the Danevirke by 
 a wall 2 miles long, 6 feet thick, and 
 16-20 feet high of burnt brick, of 
 which the lower part is still stand¬ 
 ing, though hidden by the earth 
 which has fallen down over it. A 
 century later the Danish rulers 
 again fortified and improved the 
 Danevirke, but after that time it 
 was neglected. After the acquisi¬ 
 tion of Holstein by the Danish kings 
 in 1460, there seemed less reason for 
 keeping it in repair, the frontier of 
 the king’s possessions being moved 
 so much farther south. Innumer¬ 
 able battles were fought at, and in 
 front of, the Danevirke in olden 
 times. 
 
 In the battle of Schleswig, fought 
 
38 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 6.-ECKERNFORDE ; IDSTED. 
 
 on Easter Day, 1848, in which the 
 Prussians were victorious, the Danish 
 army was placed, near the Danevirke, 
 but very little use was made of it. 
 In 1850, the Danish army again 
 occupied it, and in the years 1861— 
 1864 it was regularly fortified afresh, 
 and the Danish army took its stand 
 here at the beginning of the last 
 war. But the position was too ex¬ 
 tensive for the number of defenders. 
 The low marshlands, which in 
 ancient times were naturally impas¬ 
 sable, had again been rendered so 
 by artificial inundations; but the 
 frost made a bridge over the water, 
 and laid the right flank of the 
 position open to the enemy. The 
 Slie, which ought to have covered 
 the left wing- of the Danish army, 
 could, for the same reason, not be 
 depended upon. 
 
 Though generally too wide to be 
 bridged under the fire of a defend¬ 
 ing force, it has two very narrow 
 places, at Missunde and at Amis. 
 Both were fortified.and Missunde was 
 attacked in vain, as it had been in 
 1850 ; but the invading force was so 
 numerous that, whilst the Austrians 
 attacked the position in front, Prince 
 Frederick Charles directed a division 
 of the Prussians towards Cappel, 
 there to cross the Schlei and fall 
 upon the rear of the Danish army. 
 This compelled the Danish general 
 De Meza to retreat (5 Feb.), to pre¬ 
 vent the total destruction of his 
 army. The new works which had 
 been constructed by the Danish en¬ 
 gineer were afterwards levelled by 
 the Prussians; but the old dyke, 
 which could not be levelled without 
 very great, unnecessary, and unre- 
 munerative expense, stands still, as 
 an incontrovertible witness as to 
 who the original possessors of the 
 land were. 
 
 Numerous barrows in the neigh¬ 
 bourhood remind us of the warfare 
 of ancient times, and several stones 
 with Runic inscriptions, raised in 
 memory of valiant Danish warriors, 
 
 have been found here, of which two 
 may be seen in the park of Louis- 
 enlund, a short drive from Schleswig, 
 a manor-house belonging to the 
 Duke of Gliicksburg, where the 
 present King of Denmark was bom. 
 
 A drive to the Danevirke and 
 back may easily be made in two or 
 three hours, and should be extended 
 to a place called Kurborg, where 
 cuttings may be seen. 
 
 The town of Eckernforde , on the 
 Baltic, S.E. of Schleswig, is also 
 within a drive. There is a diligence 
 daily in 3 hours. An action took 
 place here in 1849 between some 
 coast batteries erected by the Ger¬ 
 mans and two Danish men-of-war, 
 who, being unprovided with steam, 
 and being caught in the bay by a 
 sudden change of wind, had to sur¬ 
 render. 
 
 A steamer goes twice daily down 
 the Slie as far as Cappel, 3 hours, 
 near its outlet in the Baltic, passing 
 Missunde and Amis mentioned 
 above; the banks of the Slie are 
 very picturesque. At Missunde 
 King Erik Plovpenning of Denmark 
 was murdered in 1250 at the secret 
 instigation of his brother Abel, who 
 was his vassal as Duke of Schleswig; 
 the body was found by fishermen 
 and buried in the cathedral at 
 Schleswig, but was afterwards trans¬ 
 ferred to Bingsted, in Sealand. Two 
 years later Abel was killed in battle, 
 and also buried in the cathedral, 
 but the clergy complained that his 
 ghost, which could find no quiet in 
 the grave, interrupted the night 
 services, and the body was therefore, 
 at the command of King Christoph 
 I., taken away and thrown into a 
 bog in the neighbourhood. 
 
 Another excursion may be made 
 by carriage to Idsted, north of 
 Schleswig on the high-road to Flens- 
 borg, where a battle was fought, the 
 25th of July, 1850; the army of the 
 Holstein insurgents occupied a strong 
 position, supported by a line of lakes 
 j and woodland, from which they 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 6.—FLENSBORG. 
 
 39 
 
 were driven by tbe Danish army, 
 and this battle virtually ended the 
 rebellion, though, thauks to the sup¬ 
 port of Germany, they still remained 
 under arms for a few months, en¬ 
 camped near Rendsburg, from whence 
 tlvev made two unsuccessful attacks 
 on the Danish position at Missunde 
 and at Frederihsstad. 
 
 Fail—Schleswig to Fredericia. 
 
 Jubecli Junct. Stat. Rly. E. to 
 Husum and Tunning. 
 
 About 6 miles south from Flens- 
 borg on the high-road to Schleswig, 
 is a village near a small lake called 
 Oeversee, where the Danish rear¬ 
 guard, both in 1848 and in 1864 
 sustained fierce conflicts with the 
 advancing Germans, in order to 
 cover the retreat of the main body 
 of the army before their more nume¬ 
 rous foes. In both cases the object 
 was attained, though with great 
 sacrifices. 
 
 Flensborg and Environs. 
 
 Flensborg Stat. {Inns: Bahnhof 
 H„ best and clean ; Rasch Hotel; 
 30,000 Inhab.) was formerly a 
 flourishing commercial place, but 
 declined on the separation from 
 Denmark, and now again reviving, 
 is situated at the head of the Flens¬ 
 borg Fjord, and has an excellent 
 harbour, with 7 to 15 fathoms’ depth 
 of water. But little remains of the 
 old public buildings of the town 
 excepting the two gateways. West 
 of the town was a royal Castle 
 Duborg, where Queen Margaret of 
 Denmark, Norway and Sweden, 
 often resided; she died on board a 
 vessel in the harbour in 1412. Now 
 but a fragment of the walls is visible 
 above ground. From Bellevue, a 
 restaurant, there is a fine view over 
 the town. The Cemetery, W., near the 
 Windmill, also affords a fine view 
 of the town and the neighbourhood. 
 St. Nicholas Church, in which observe 
 a curious font. A splendid Monument, 
 
 erected here by public subscription 
 over the bodies of a great number of 
 Danish officers and soldiers who fell 
 at Idsted, and consisting of a colossal 
 lion, was mutilated in 1864, after 
 the retreat of the Danish army, by 
 a gang of roughs. It was removed 
 to Berlin in 1864. The collection of 
 Northern antiquities, &c„ formerly 
 in the Museum here, has been re¬ 
 moved by the Prussians to Kiel, 
 with the exception of a remarkable 
 boat of the 3rd cent, found in a peat¬ 
 bog at Nydam in Schleswig, 72 ft. in 
 length, and pulling 14 oars on each 
 side. 
 
 A considerable proportion of the 
 inhabitants of Flensborg use the 
 Danish language, and the purely 
 Danish part of the duchy, in point 
 of language, begins from Flensborg. 
 To the south of this town the Danish 
 language, which in 1825 was preva¬ 
 lent as far as the Slie and the Dane- 
 virke, has been almost superseded 
 by the Low German ; but, as many 
 speak both languages, it is difficult 
 to draw the boundary between their 
 territories. 
 
 From Flensborg the journey to 
 Copenhagen maybe continued either 
 by steamer direct to Korsor in 11 
 hrs., and thence by rail, or by rail 
 through North Schleswig, Jutland, 
 and Fyen, to Korsor. 
 
 Direct Steamers to Korsor (usually 
 Monday, Wednesday, and Friday) 
 start from Flensborg 64 a.m., so as 
 to reach Korsor in time for the even¬ 
 ing train to Copenhagen. The pano¬ 
 rama of Flensborg from the bay is 
 very pretty, and the shores of the 
 bay are well timbered. After pass¬ 
 ing some small islands and rounding 
 a headland, we observe the castle of 
 Gliiclcsburg on the rt., but only a 
 moment, through a cutting in the 
 wood. Next appears, to the 1., 
 Graasten, and then straight ahead, 
 apparently closing the bay, the so- 
 called Broager land , a hilly penin¬ 
 sula, ornamented by the twin spires 
 of Broager church. The steamer 
 
40 
 
 ROUTE 6.-FLENSBORG TO FREDERICIA. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 takes a turn to the right, in order to 
 round the promontory, and then 
 emerges into the Baltic. To the left 
 appears the bay of Venning bond. 
 The defensive works at Dybbol are 
 clearly seen from the sea, particularly 
 if the steamer, as is generally the 
 case, runs into the Alssund, in order 
 to land passengers at Sonderborg. 
 The water here is deep enough for 
 the largest ships, and the current 
 through the sound so rapid, that it 
 never freezes over. After leaving 
 Sonderborg, the steamer rounds the 
 southern extremity of the island, 
 giving it a wide berth on account of 
 sandbanks. We observe the entrance 
 of Horup Hav, a deep bay pene¬ 
 trating behind Sonderborg, and 
 which was of the greatest importance 
 to the Danes during the siege of 
 Dybbol, because it afforded an 
 easy and safe place of embarkation 
 and unloading of reinforcements, 
 stores, &c. 
 
 The steamer then crosses the Little 
 Belt between the islands of Als and 
 JEro, passes round the northern point 
 of the latter island, and after a wind¬ 
 ing passage amongst smaller islands, 
 halts at 
 
 Svendborg, an insignificant but 
 excessively prettily situated town, 
 with 2 churches of the 12th cent., on 
 the southern extremity of Fyen. The 
 neighbourhood abounds in pretty 
 walks and views. 
 
 The island opposite is called Taa- 
 singe (ferry between Svendborg and 
 Vendeby 5 min.), originally Thorseng. 
 that is “ Thor’s meadow,” and forms 
 a very valuable domain belonging to 
 the descendants of Niels Juel, one of 
 the naval heroes of Denmark. The 
 castle was originally built in 1630 
 for Prince Valdemar, son of King 
 Christian IV. In the middle of the 
 island Bregninge church, from the 
 tower of which a magnificent view 
 of more than 25 miles in every 
 direction over land and sea, and the 
 numerous islands; 65 churches can 
 be counted. 
 
 In Svendborg and on Taasinge, 
 there is a prosperous shipbuilding 
 trade, favoured by the deep water 
 and safe anchorage in the “ Svend¬ 
 borg sund.” 
 
 After leaving Svendborg, the 
 steamer passes through a wider arm 
 of the sea between Fyen on the left 
 hand, and Langeland on the right, 
 a fertile and well-timbered island, 
 30 miles long and from 2 to i miles 
 broad, belonging mostly to Count 
 Ahlefeldt. The little town of Rud- 
 kjobing (Inn: Langeland), on this 
 island, was the birthplace of H. C. 
 Orsted, the discoverer of electro¬ 
 magnetism. At length the Great 
 Belt is reached, and, crossing over 
 in a straight line, Korsor is reached 
 about 5 r.M. _ 
 
 Railway from Flensborg to Frede- 
 ricia , a direct continuation. After 
 leaving the North Schleswig Junction , 
 uniting the short local branch which 
 serves Flensborg and the main line, 
 we pass 
 
 Tinqlef Stat., junction for Bonder 
 (see Rte. 7). 
 
 Rodekro (German, Bothenkrug), 
 junction stat. for Aabenraa (Germ., 
 Apenrade), a well-to-do town, pret¬ 
 tily situated on a bay of the same 
 name in the Little Belt, of whose 
 inhabitants many are extensive ship¬ 
 owners and shipbuilders. 
 
 Vojens, junct. stat. for Haderslev 
 (Inn: Stadt Hamburg), on the E. 
 coast, a very old town with 0000 
 Inhab., and a handsome Church. 
 From Vojens there is a mail-coach 
 in 5 hours to Ribe (described in 
 Rte. 16), which is just beyond the 
 present Prussian frontier, and the 
 railway going north from Vojens 
 passes the Prussian frontier at 
 Sommerstedt, and enters Denmark 
 Proper at Vamdrup. Handbags and 
 unregistered luggage are here ex¬ 
 amined by the Danish douane. The 
 rly., which hitherto has chiefly passed 
 through desolate moors and heaths, 
 now approaches the sea, and the 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 6.-HOLDING. EEEDEKIOIA. 
 
 41 
 
 landscape improves. The first town 
 after crossing the present Danish 
 frontier is 
 
 Holding (Hotel omnibus from Ely., 
 Inns: Thomsen’s Hotel, Svenson’s 
 Hotel), an old town of 7000 Inhab., 
 prettily situated on the Holding 
 Fjord, and endowed with special 
 privileges by Christopher II. in 1321, 
 several times burnt, and the scene 
 of a conflict in 1819 between the 
 Danes and the Schleswig-Holsteiners, 
 but the interest of the place centres 
 in the neighbouring massive ruins 
 of 
 
 Koldinghuus, begun in 1248, de¬ 
 stroyed by fire in 1808. The huge 
 square tower was built by Christian 
 IV., and its corners were surmounted 
 by colossal statues representing clas¬ 
 sical personages. One of them, Han¬ 
 nibal, holding a shield with the arms 
 of Denmark, is still standing. It is 
 one of the finest ruins in Denmark, 
 and very picturesque at moonlight. 
 From Holding a charming excursion 
 may be made to 
 
 Skamlingsbakke, 7 m. distant (7 
 kr.); an eminence (363 ft.) with a 
 magnificent view. It is a place of 
 historical interest, because it was 
 here that the North Schleswigers for 
 several years previously to 1848 held 
 monster meetings, to protest against 
 the so-called Schleswig - Holstein 
 agitation, and the intended separa¬ 
 tion of Schleswig from Denmark. A 
 fine granite obelisk, 60 ft. high, with 
 the names of their Danish leaders 
 (amongst them Kruger, who now re¬ 
 presents North Schleswig in the 
 German Parliament) commemorates 
 the fact. It was thrown down by 
 the Germans in 1864; but is now 
 restored, the locality, which formerly 
 was just inside the Schleswig terri¬ 
 tory, and thus really was to have 
 been ceded to the Prussians in 1864, 
 having remained in the possession of 
 Denmark by a regulation of the 
 frontier. 
 
 Beyond Holding the rly. passes 
 
 through a rich undulated country 
 with occasional glimpses of Holding 
 Fjord and the Little Belt, which here 
 is scarcely a mile wide, and of the 
 opposite coast, and in a little more 
 than half an hour the train reaches 
 
 Fredericia (Victoria Hotel, very 
 fair, civil host), where passengers 
 for Copenhagen leave it in order to 
 cross the Belt by the steamer. The 
 distance from the pier is insignifi¬ 
 cant, and there is time for lunch at 
 the buffet at the station. Fredericia 
 was founded by Frederik III., 1657), 
 and was intended to become a power¬ 
 ful fortress, securing the connection 
 between Jutland and Fyen; but the 
 plan was never carried out, and it is 
 now dismantled. 
 
 The greater part of the area inside 
 the ramparts remains unoccupied. 
 The number of Inhab. is only 770(1. 
 In 1848 the Danes did not attempt 
 to defend the fortress, but during 
 the armistice, 1S48-9, it was tho¬ 
 roughly repaired; and when in 1849 
 the Danish army had to retreat be¬ 
 fore the far more numerous German 
 forces, a garrison was left in Fre¬ 
 dericia, which the army of the 
 Holstein insurgents, advancing in 
 the rear of the allied Germans, be¬ 
 sieged for two months, during which 
 the town was destroyed by a bom¬ 
 bardment. On the 6th of July a 
 Danish corps d’armee, which had 
 been brought into the fortress by 
 way of the sea, made a sortie, de¬ 
 feated the besieging army, and cap¬ 
 tured their camp and artillery and 
 numerous prisoners. 
 
 In memory of this victory, a fine 
 monument was erected inside one 
 of the gates (on leaving the station 
 the first street to the 1. leads directly 
 to it), consisting of a bronze statue of 
 a soldier, putting one foot on a 
 howitzer, and waving a beech- 
 branch as a sign of victory. The 
 figure, which is known as the Danish 
 Land soldier, by Bissen (Thorvald¬ 
 sen’s best pupil, born in Schleswig), 
 is placed on a granite pedestal; the 
 
42 route 6 . —fredericia. Odense. Denmark. 
 
 total height is 20 ft. The monument 
 stands in an open triangular place ; 
 from the apex of the triangle two 
 streets issue, of which the broadest 
 and longest (Danmarksgade) leads 
 to the church and cemetery of the 
 
 Holy Trinity (rt. hand in the 
 street), where 500 fallen Danes rest 
 under a barrow planted with beech- 
 trees, and distinguished by a basso- 
 relievo by Bissen, two soldiers bury¬ 
 ing a fallen comrade. Returning by 
 Jyllands gade, which runs parallel 
 to Danmarksgade on the other side 
 of the church, the 4th turn to the 1. 
 leads to the harbour. A bronze bust 
 by Bissen, of General Bulow, the 
 Danish Commander in the battle of 
 Fredericia, stands in front of the 
 new and handsome town-hall, built 
 in 1860, a few minutes’ walk from 
 the station. As a fortress, Fredericia 
 is now valueless. 
 
 The passage across the Little Belt 
 occupies only a quarter of an hour, 
 but there is nearly half an hour’s 
 delay in Strib, on the coast of Fyen, 
 before the departure of the train. 
 The landing-place lies quite isolated, 
 about a mile from the little town of 
 
 Middlefart (Behrendt’s H., Knud- 
 sen’s H.), where formerly the pas¬ 
 sage of the Belt was chiefly under¬ 
 taken, the ferry landing at Snoglidi, 
 south of Fredericia. The town is 
 very old, and is the seat of the oldest 
 guild in Denmark, that of the dol¬ 
 phin-hunters ( Marsvinejsegere ). A 
 great number of these animals, which 
 during the winter arrive in shoals, 
 are killed annually. The park of 
 the manor-house of 
 
 Hindsgavl, situated on a penin¬ 
 sula, which is open to the public (as 
 indeed are most of the large parks in 
 Denmark), is reckoned one of the 
 prettiest points in Denmark. 
 
 The Rly. from Strib to Odense (2 
 to 21 lirs., 291 m.) leads through a 
 rich and undulating district; but 
 the journey is very tedious, on ac¬ 
 count of the slowness of the train, 
 and the frequent stoppages. The 
 
 island of Fyen is one of the most 
 fertile parts of Denmark. 
 
 Odense (Inns: Brockmann’s Hotel, 
 Postgaarden) is one of the oldest 
 towns of Denmark, the original 
 name being Odinsve, that is, a place 
 sacred to Odin, the principal deity of 
 the heathen Scandinavians. It is a 
 flourishing place, and the population 
 (.25,000) has nearly trebled in this 
 century. Its principal object of at¬ 
 traction is the 
 
 Church of St. Canute (apply for 
 admission to the sexton, 13 St. 
 Knud’s Kirke-strsede), the national 
 Saint of Denmark. He was a grand¬ 
 nephew of Canute the Great, and 
 ascended the throne in 1080. He 
 collected a large fleet and army with 
 which he intended to dispute with 
 William of Normandy the conquest 
 of England. But the emissaries of 
 William having succeeded by bri¬ 
 bery in creating insubordination in 
 the army, it separated before the 
 king’s arrival. This gave rise to bad 
 feeling between him and many of 
 his subjects, on whom he inflicted 
 severe punishments. An insurrec¬ 
 tion broke out, and he was killed in 
 1086 in Odense in the church of St. 
 Albanus, while kneeling before the 
 altar. He was canonised in 1100 as 
 the first Danish martyr, and buried 
 the next year with great pomp in 
 the church of St. Canute (in Danish 
 Knud), which he had begun to build, 
 but which was finished after his 
 death, and named after him. 
 
 Besides the Saint and his brother 
 Benedict, who gallantly defended 
 him and fell at his side, several 
 other Danish kings and queens are 
 buried here. The shrine of St. 
 Canute is a singular example of 
 Romanesque woodwork. The top is 
 of glass, to display the bones. The 
 skull only is visible. The pall was 
 worked by his queen. A slab re¬ 
 moved from another ch., and set up 
 in one of the aisles, bears the effigy 
 of King John II. and his wife 
 (d. 1513), rudely carved. In the 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 6.-ODENSE. NYBORG. 
 
 43 
 
 chapel of the family of Ahlefeldt is 
 the fine monument by Quilinus of 
 General Hans Ahlefeldt. who dis¬ 
 tinguished himself at the siege of 
 Copenhagen in 1658. Also some 
 curious sarcophagi of wood, iron, and 
 gilt bronze, containing the remains 
 of other members of the same family. 
 Note also some monuments in the 
 chancel, among others that of 
 Countess Skofgaard (1613), sur¬ 
 rounded by 16 armorial bearings; 
 the memorial to a Bishop of Fyen, 
 who died in 1654; and to Count 
 Munch, 1554. (N. aisle.) The pre¬ 
 sent ch. is a fine specimen of early 
 pointed Gothic brick architecture, 
 but is at least two centuries later 
 than Canute’s church, and the tower 
 cannot be earlier than the 16th cent. 
 
 In For Fruesknke (Our Lady’s 
 Church) is a very remarkable carved 
 triptych altarpiece by Claus Berg , 16 
 ft. high, 20 ft. broad, when open, with 
 more than 300 figures, and more than 
 300 square feet of surface. The famous 
 artist, a native of Liibeck, made this 
 altarpiece for the Greyfriars Church, 
 at the expense of Queen Christina, 
 towards the close of the 15th cent. 
 The latter very fine ch. having been 
 demolished in 1806 most unneces¬ 
 sarily, the church of Our Lady 
 bought this altarpiece for the sum 
 of 25Z.! Each wing is divided into 
 eight compartments, illustrating 
 scenes in the life of our Lord. In 
 the centre there are three groups in 
 oblong panels : the upper one repre¬ 
 senting the Coronation of the Virgin ; 
 the central panel the Crucifixion; 
 and the lower one the Presentation 
 in the Temple. It is a fine example 
 of the wood carving of the period. 
 
 In the Palace, which sometimes 
 has served as a royal residence, is a 
 good collection of northern antiqui¬ 
 ties, enriched in 1871 by the Lassen 
 collection, and particularly strong in 
 specimens of the stone age. 
 
 On an open space called “ Flak- 
 have,” near the cathedral, stands a 
 bronze Statue of King Frederik 
 
 VII., by Bissen, representing the 
 king giving the Charter of 1848. 
 which is still the constitution of 
 Denmark. 
 
 In the suburb of “Vesterbro” a 
 small cottage may be seen (No. 1) in 
 which the poet H. C. Andersen,whose 
 tales are so well known in England, 
 was born,l 805,and in which his child¬ 
 hood was passed. He was the son of a 
 cobbler. The neighbourhood has 
 several pretty walks along the river, 
 to “ Fruens Bdge,” a beech planta¬ 
 tion, and to Naesbyhoved on the 
 road to Bogense, where there is a 
 tumulus dedicated to Odin, ruins of 
 a castle, and a pleasing view. 
 
 In the church at Fraugde, near 
 the station of Marslev, the first out 
 of OdeDse on the line to Nyborg, is 
 the sepulchre of Thomas Kingo, son 
 of a Scotch weaver, who settled in 
 Denmark in the 17th century. He 
 was a celebrated composer of church 
 hymns, of which very many are still 
 in use; he died as a bishop at 
 Fraugde manor-house, which be¬ 
 longed to him. Birkendc , near the 
 following station, was the birthpl me 
 of Haus Tausen, the principal of the 
 Danish Reformers; but there are no 
 memorials of him. 
 
 Nyborg (Postgaarden : Hotel Ny¬ 
 borg near the harbour) is reached 
 in about one hour from Odense. This 
 town of 4600 Inhab. was a fortress 
 up to 1869, but the ramparts now 
 merely serve as a promenade. The 
 neighbourhood is rich and pretty, 
 and a walk to the ancient manor- 
 house of Uolckenhavn (fine chapel 
 with good carvings) and the sur¬ 
 rounding woods is well worth the 
 trouble. 
 
 The steamer for Korsor starts 
 about J hr. after the arrival of the 
 train from Odense, the station being 
 quite close to the harbour, and ar¬ 
 rives on the other side of the Great 
 Belt after a passage of 1^ hr., in 
 good time for the corresponding up- 
 train to Copenhagen. In the middle 
 of the Belt the small island of 
 
44 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 6.-—KORSOR. ROESKILDE. 
 
 Sprocjo affords a very convenient 
 stage for the ice-boats, by means of 
 ■which the passage is effected in 
 winter. There is rarely solid ice in 
 the Belt affording a fair passage for 
 sledges. Generally tire ice merely 
 fringes the coasts: often the water 
 between these borders of solid ice is 
 full of huge masses of floating ice. 
 The mails, and such passengers as 
 are disposed to try it, are then 
 brought over in large boats, which 
 are drawn by the men across the ice 
 where it is strong enough, and 
 rowed or paddled through the open 
 parts. The whole distance being 
 18 m., a stage on the road is often 
 very acceptable, and frequently pas¬ 
 sengers and crew are obliged to 
 spend one or more days on the 
 island. This has only a circumfer¬ 
 ence of one mile, and contains only a 
 lighthouse and a plainly furnished 
 hostelry, which is never used except 
 when there is ice in the Belt. 
 
 Korsor (Hotel Store Belt by the 
 landing-place and station), forms the 
 most important junction of the dif¬ 
 ferent lines of internal communica¬ 
 tion in Denmark, but has nothing to 
 attract the attention of the traveller. 
 The little bay, which is separated 
 from the sea by a narrow peninsula 
 on which the town is built, and 
 which, on account of the narrowness 
 of the inlet, looks like a lake, has 
 become known in the archaeological 
 world for so-called “ coastfinds,” ac¬ 
 cumulations of rudely manufactured 
 stone implements met with near the 
 seashore, and no doubt traceable to 
 the prehistoric inhabitants of the 
 country. 
 
 The first town at which the train 
 stops after leaving Korsor is 
 
 Slagelse ( Inn : Postgaarden, Stadt 
 Hamburg), which, however, offers 
 nothing worthy of special attention. 
 Soon after leaving the station of 
 Slagelse the rly. enters one of the 
 most attractive districts of Sealand, 
 rich in extensive forests and beauti¬ 
 
 ful though not very large lakes, in 
 the centre of which Sorb Stat. (see 
 Ete. 11), the next town on the line 
 is situated. The pretty lake appears 
 on the 1. hand of the train, and soon 
 a large white building is observed in 
 the wood on the opposite bank, viz. 
 Sorb Academy, a public school 
 founded by the celebrated Danish 
 author, Ludvig Holberg, in the last 
 century. The town is scarcely 
 visible from the train, and as it is con¬ 
 veniently visited from Copenhagen 
 we postpone the description of it, as 
 well as the notices of the following 
 towns. 
 
 Eingsted Stat. (see Ete. 11). 
 
 Hoeskilde Stat. (described in Ete. 
 11, p. 80) (Inns: H. Prindzen; H. 
 Frederikstad) whose cathedral is 
 very well seen from the line, and 
 whose beautiful situation at the 
 head of the fjord which thus pene¬ 
 trates into the very heart of Sealand, 
 can also be appreciated. 
 
 The last 18 m. of the rly. journey 
 are uninteresting. The country, 
 though fertile, and upon the whole 
 well cultivated, is very bare. When 
 the train approaches Copenhagen, 
 the castle and park of the Frederiks- 
 berg appear to the right, and the 
 journey’s end is reached, after* cross¬ 
 ing the belt of lakes which surround 
 the inner part of 
 
 Copenhagen Terminus, see Ete. 8. 
 
45 
 
 Denmark, route 6a.—flensborg to glVcksburg, etc. 
 
 ROUTE 6a. 
 
 FLENSBORG TO GLUCKSBURG, SiiNDER- 
 
 BORG, DUPPEL, AND THE ISLE OF 
 
 ALS. 
 
 Steamers leave Flensborg at 6.30 
 a.m., arriving at Gliicksburg at 7. 
 Strand Hotel at pier good. Leav¬ 
 ing Gliicksburg at noon we arrive at 
 Sbnderborg in two hours and a half. 
 There are ten boats daily from Flens- 
 borg to Gliicksburg, and ten return¬ 
 ing. Three boats daily to Sbnder¬ 
 borg, at 6.30 a.m., 11.30 a.m., 7‘30 
 
 P.M. 
 
 Excursions from Flensborg. 
 
 (a) to Gliicksburg in the fertile 
 district of Angeln, between the bay 
 of Flensborg and the Slie, which for¬ 
 merly erroneously was supposed to 
 be the home of the Angles who 
 settled in England in the 5th cen¬ 
 tury. Originally a monastery, By 
 Kloster, it has been inhabited by 
 princely personages since the Refor¬ 
 mation, and King Frederik VII. 
 died here in 1863 in consequence of 
 a cold which he contracted on an 
 archieological excursion. The castle 
 lies in a lake surrounded by pretty 
 beechwoods. 
 
 Excursion to Als and Dybbol.— 
 An interesting excursion may be 
 made from Flensborg to Dybbol 
 (German Diippel) and Sbnderborg, 
 either by steamer to the last-named 
 place (several times daily, a pleasant 
 trip), or by road, a distance of about 
 13 miles. To go and return takes 
 up a long day, and it is advisable to 
 carry provisions, the Inns at Sbn¬ 
 derborg being poor. 
 
 The Steamer traverses the Flens- 
 borger Fjord, a broad inlet of the 
 sea, with gently swelling banks, 
 touching alternately at the places on 
 the N. bank —Nubel, whence one 
 may walk by Dybbol to Sbnderborg, 
 or at Broaker. 
 
 The road leads through the North- 
 
 gate, along the coast, through a wood 
 called “ Kobbermblleskoven,’’ in the 
 neighbourhood of which the battle 
 of Flensborg was fought in April 
 1848, where the insurgents were de¬ 
 feated by the Danish troops; then 
 turning eastwards across open fields 
 to Graasteen or Gravensteen —an 
 old-fashioned large manor-house be¬ 
 longing to the Duke of Augusten- 
 borg, surrounded by pretty woods. 
 From thence the road turns round a 
 small but very deep bay, “ Nybol 
 Noer,” and soon reaches the village 
 of Dybbol. Nybbl Noer is connected 
 with the bay of Flensborg by a very 
 narrow inlet, across which the Prus¬ 
 sians had a bridge in 1864. The 
 Danish iron-clad “ Rolf Krake ” 
 (built on the Clyde) was sent to 
 destroy it, but could not get near 
 enough, owing to her draught of 
 water. She sustained a very heavy 
 fire from the Prussian artillery with¬ 
 out receiving any damage. This 
 was the first actual engagement of a 
 turret-ship in European waters, and 
 has been the subject of much con¬ 
 troversy, as the German artillerists 
 erroneously maintained that their 
 fire had driven the ironclad back. 
 
 Beyond the village of Dybbol the 
 ground rises abruptly, forming the 
 so-called “ Dybbblbjerg,” which was 
 the scene of a fierce struggle during 
 the last war between Denmark and 
 Germany. From the top of the hill, 
 where a Gothic monument from 
 Strack’s design has been erected to 
 the fallen, there is a magnificent 
 view over the surrounding country, 
 which forms a peninsula called Sun¬ 
 dered (Sundewitt), and across the 
 narrow Als Sund to the island of 
 Als (German Alsen) and the little 
 town of Sbnderborg. Both in 1848, 
 after the battle of Schleswig, and in 
 1864, the Danish army, being com¬ 
 pelled to retreat before superior 
 forces, took up a position on this hill, 
 from which it could threaten the 
 liank of the advancing army, and 
 where supplies could easily be ob- 
 
46 route 6a.—island of als. Denmark. 
 
 tained from Als, to which the road 
 by sea always was open. In the 
 first war between Denmark and Ger¬ 
 many, the hill was left without any 
 fortifications. 
 
 In 1818 two severe engagements, 
 28tli May and 5th June, took place 
 in the front of the hill, but this was 
 never attacked; in 1849 the Danes, 
 after a smart encounter at Ulderup, 
 retired to Als, leaving the hill, save 
 a tete de pont, in the hands of the 
 enemies, who in vain attempted to 
 force a passage over the bridges 
 which lead to Sonderborg; but 
 when a new war was foreseen in the 
 years 1861-64, extensive works were 
 erected on the crest of the hill, which, 
 though only having the character of 
 field-works (with dry moats and 
 without brickwork, &c.), resisted the 
 attacks of the Prussians for two 
 months. But the modern guns of 
 the latter, which reached three times 
 as far as the old-fashioned ordnance 
 of the Danes, by degrees reduced the 
 entrenchments to mere gravel heaps, 
 and when the Prussians at last 
 stormed the works on the 18th of 
 April, the Danish Commander had 
 already resolved to give up the posi¬ 
 tion. The Danish army retreated 
 to Als, which, as the map shows, is 
 separated from Sundeved by a very 
 narrow but deep arm of the sea. 
 The same circumstance, however, 
 which drove them from Dybbol, the 
 immense superiority of the Prussian 
 artillery, enabled the latter to force 
 a passage across the Sound (29th 
 June, 1864), for which they had 
 made careful preparations under the 
 shelter of a little wood on the 
 Sundeved side, which the Danish 
 generals had omitted to cut down in 
 time. The consequence was that 
 the Danes had to quit the island by 
 sea. Instead of the ruined Danish 
 entrenchments the Prussians have 
 now erected very powerful works on 
 the hill and around Sonderborg, 
 converting it into a formidable 
 fortress, and a monument has been 
 
 erected to commemorate the victory 
 over the Danes. 
 
 A Bridge of Boats leads across 
 the narrow Alser Sunde to Sonder- 
 borg, and the island of Als, which 
 occupies about 100 English square 
 miles, and has 23,000 Inhabitants. 
 The town of Sonderborg oppo¬ 
 site Dybbol, with a castle dating 
 from the 13th century, was bom¬ 
 barded and destroyed by the Prus¬ 
 sians during the siege of Dybbol. 
 It has 5800 Inhab. On the height 
 of Aruldel, about 4 m. N. of Sonder¬ 
 borg, the Prussians have erected 
 another Gothic Obelisk to record 
 their victory over the Danes. In 
 the centre of the island is Augusten- 
 borg, with a beautiful park, the 
 ancestral seat of the branch of the 
 house of Oldenburg which bears 
 that name. It came into the pos¬ 
 session of the Danish Government 
 when the Duke was exiled on ac¬ 
 count of his participation in the 
 insurrection in Holstein in 1848. 
 Now it belongs to the Emperor of 
 Germany, and is used as a barrack. 
 A short distance E. of Sonderborg is 
 Horup Hav, a very large and deep 
 bay and natural harbour, by which 
 the Danes in 1864 received their 
 supplies for the garrison at Dybbol. 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 7 . —FLENSBORG TO HUSUM. 
 
 47 
 
 ROUTE 7. 
 
 FLENSBORG TO HUSUM, TOSSING, 
 AND THE FRISIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 The west coast of Schleswig and the 
 Frisian Islands may be conveniently 
 visited from Flensborg. Both the 
 country and the people there are 
 interesting. The marshland on the 
 •west coast, and the row of islands 
 which gird it, are remnants of that 
 extensive marshy country which is 
 supposed to have existed at the 
 southern extremity of the North 
 Sea, at the time when the English 
 Channel did not exist, and when the 
 North Sea was nothing but a large 
 bay into which the Thames, the 
 Scheldt, the Rhine, and the Elbe, 
 poured their waters charged with 
 fertile clay. The greater part of the 
 marshy alluvial land must have 
 disappeared when the channel was 
 formed, but remaining portions still 
 are seen along the coasts of England, 
 Belgium, Holland, Germany, and 
 Schleswig. For many centuries the 
 inhabitants have been contesting 
 the ground with the violence of the 
 sea ; mighty dykes stretch for hun¬ 
 dreds of miles along these coasts, and 
 from time to time new land is en¬ 
 closed, but more is lost than gained, 
 on the continental side at least. 
 The west coast of Schleswig shows 
 this in a remarkable manner. 
 
 According to King Yaldemar’s 
 ‘ Jordebog ’ of 1231, there were more 
 than 60 churches in the Frisian 
 province of Strand , but after the 
 great floods of 1300, 1362, and 1634, 
 only 14 remained. In the flood of 
 October 11, 1634, the sea broke 
 through the dykes in 44 places; in 
 Nordstrand alone 6000 men were 
 drowned, and along the coast of 
 Schleswig and Holstein 15,000 in 
 all lost their life. The soil is ex¬ 
 ceedingly fertile, and much cattle 
 is fattened here for the English 
 
 market; in the enclosed “ kougs,” 
 inside the dykes, large and well-to- 
 do farmhouses indicate the pros¬ 
 perity of the people; but on the 
 unenclosed parts the so-called 
 “ Halligs,” either abutting on the 
 dykes or forming separate islands, 
 life is very difficult and entails many 
 hardships. The houses are built on 
 small mounds to prevent their being 
 swept away by the water, which at 
 high tides and in the winter for 
 weeks together cover the pastures, 
 the inhabitants and their cattle all 
 the while living in their houses sur¬ 
 rounded by the sea as close prisoners. 
 
 The people are descendants of the 
 ancient Frisian nation, and have in 
 some parts preserved their language, 
 which is quite different both from 
 German and Danish, though belong¬ 
 ing to the same group of languages 
 as these and English. Many pecu¬ 
 liar customs, and, as far as the 
 women are concerned, a very pictu¬ 
 resque national costume, have also 
 been preserved. Lately two sea¬ 
 bathing places have been esta¬ 
 blished, which are chiefly visited by 
 Germans, and which, though cer¬ 
 tainly very primitive, have their 
 attractions, not only on account of 
 cheapness, but by reason of their 
 extreme simplicity and quietness. 
 
 A Rly. runs from Flensborg by 
 Jiibeck Janet. Stat. to Husum Stat., 
 a small town of 5000 Inha'b., on 
 the west coast (Stadt Hamburg H., 
 Thomas H.). Small Steamers almost 
 daily proceed to the islands. 
 
 Tonning Stat. (Inn: Victoria), at 
 the mouth of the shallow river Eider, 
 formerly a fortress, now only known 
 as the departing-place of steamers 
 to London and Lowestoft with cattle 
 fattened in the marshes, particularly 
 in the adjoining district of Eider- 
 stedt; but the town is likely to grow 
 in importance as being on the direct 
 line from the E. coast of England to 
 Copenhagen, as steamers now run 
 from Flensborg to Copenhagen in 
 
'48 
 
 ROUTE 7. -THE FRISIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 Denmark- 
 
 correspondence with the Ely. from 
 Tonning. 
 
 An hour's drive from Tonning is 
 Friedrichsstadt, a small town with 
 2500 Inhab., higher up the river at 
 the junction of the Treen river and 
 the Eider. It was founded by Dutch 
 colonists, 1621, who had been com¬ 
 pelled to leave their home on account 
 of religious persecution. It was of 
 considerable importance during the 
 Dano - German wars, because the 
 right flank of the military position 
 of the Danevirke was protected by 
 extensive inundations. These were 
 brought about by preventing the 
 outflow of the waters of the Treen 
 into the Eider through the sluices at 
 Friedrichsstadt. This little town thus 
 became the key of the right wing of 
 the Danish position. The place was 
 attacked by Holsteiners in the au¬ 
 tumn of 1850, and entirely destroyed 
 by a bombardment, but an attempt 
 to take it by storm was defeated 
 with very great loss. 
 
 The Steamer from Husum to the 
 Frisian Islands winds its way through 
 smooth water by a very difficult and 
 intricate course between numerous 
 islands, of which 
 
 Pelworm (very interesting old 
 church and beautiful ruins of an¬ 
 other) and 
 
 Nordstrand, remains of the pro¬ 
 vince of Strand or Nordstrand de¬ 
 stroyed in 1634, are the largest, 
 accomplishing the passage to Wych 
 on Fohr between the tides, as most 
 of the ground it traverses is laid dry 
 by the ebb. 
 
 Wych (Konversations Haus) is, 
 since the fire of 1857, a well-built 
 little place of about 1000 Inhab., 
 with a promenade, music in the 
 evening, a little pier, and other 
 appurtenances of a watering-place. 
 The bathing is very good, and the 
 water very salt, owing to its shallow¬ 
 ness, and the absence of fresh-water 
 streams discharging into it. 
 
 The steamer continues the journey 
 as far as (2 hrs.) Nossc, a landing- 
 
 place on the long and narrow island 
 of Sylt (Danish Sild). Carriages are 
 in waiting to take the travellers 
 across the island to 
 
 Westerland (Royal H., Konversa¬ 
 tions Haus), a small village on the 
 west coast, far more exposed than 
 Wyck, but preferred by some for 
 bathing. This island is very remark¬ 
 able in several respects. It consists 
 of a narrow strip of land 23 miles 
 long, mostly only 1 m. wide, covered 
 with sand-hills, to which on the 
 middle of the east coast is joined 
 a small constantly diminishing pen¬ 
 insula of marsh land, terminating to 
 the east in a high cliff, Morsum cliff, 
 rich in fossils. There are no trees, 
 and the inhabitants use peat for fuel, 
 which they extract from submarine 
 peat-bogs laid dry at the ebb. Many 
 of them obtain a living at the oyster 
 fisheries, which have existed for 
 centuries, and yield several thousand 
 barrels annually. The fields are 
 cultivated by the women, while the 
 men go to sea; and in spite of all 
 these disadvantages, the population, 
 which is less than 3000, is very well 
 off. Some years ago it was stated 
 that in the Danish funds alone more 
 than 100,0001 were owned in this 
 island. In the northern part the 
 Danish language is spoken. 
 
 Both here and on the island of 
 Fohr a great quantity of wild duck 
 are taken in so-called “ Vogel Kojes,” 
 consisting of a large pond with 
 canals diverging in different direc¬ 
 tions, about 200 ft. long, and covered 
 with nets, into which the ducks are 
 entrapped, partly by corn strewn on 
 the water, partly by tame decoy- 
 ducks. In such a “ Koje ” as many 
 as 30,000 ducks are sometimes taken 
 in a year. 
 
 From Munhmarsch, on the east 
 coast, li mile from Westerland, there 
 is a daily steamer in J hr. to Hoyer 
 on the mainland, thence by omnibus 
 (If hr.), which meets the boat, to 
 Ponder (Tondern), (Railway Inn), 
 a very old town of 3000 Inhab., 
 

 
 
4 5 
 
 LoruHorb, Johru Mr/rray, Albemarle Street/. 
 
 E&wf Weller 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 8.-COPENHAGEN. 
 
 49 
 
 which has suffered greatly from 
 inundation and fire. From Bonder 
 branch Ely. to Tinglef junction, on 
 the trunk line. 
 
 Eail, Tonning to Itzelioe and 
 Hamburg. 
 
 Heide Janet. Stat. Branch Ely. 
 to Neumiinster. 
 
 Meldorf Stat. 
 
 Edeleck Stat. 
 
 Itzelioe Stat. (See Ete. 2.) 
 Gliickstadt Stat., Elmskorn Stat. 
 Altona Stat. 
 
 Hamburg Station. (Ete. 1). 
 
 ROUTE 8. 
 
 COPENHAGEN (DANISH KJOBENHAYN. 
 
 Contexts. 
 
 Page 
 
 a. Arrivals, Cabs, Omnibuses . . .49 
 
 b. Hotels, p. 49. Post-office, English 
 
 Church, Shops.50 
 
 c. City, Forts, and Diary of Sights . . 50 
 
 d. Christiansborg Palace.52 
 
 e. Royal Picture Gallery.53 
 
 f. Thorvaldsen’s Museum .... 54 
 
 g. Ethnographic Museum .... 56 
 
 h. Museum of Northern Antiquities . 57 
 
 i. Coins, Engravings, Royal Library . 61 
 
 j. Exchange.62 
 
 k. Rosenborg Castle.62 
 
 l. Chamber of Regalia.66 
 
 .an. Round Tower.66 
 
 n. New University Library .... 66 
 
 o. Botanic Garden.66 
 
 j>. Vor Frue Kirke.67 
 
 q. Other Churches.68 
 
 •a-. Amalienborg.68 
 
 s. Hospitals, Theatres.69 
 
 t. Environs.70 
 
 a. Arrival .—At the railway sta¬ 
 tion, as well as on the steamboat pier, 
 there are porters ( Drager ), at a fixed 
 tariff of 40 ore, to take charge of 
 luggage. Travellers coming from 
 Abroad must themselves assist at the 
 custom-house examination. On ar¬ 
 riving at the rly. stat. hand the 
 receipt for the luggage to one of the 
 porters, and notice his number. 
 
 Cabs or Drosclikes are paid ac¬ 
 cording to a tariff, which is hung 
 up inside the vehicle. The town is 
 •divided into districts; the fare within 
 [Denmark.'] 
 
 one of these is 70 b. for each ad¬ 
 ditional district through which the 
 journey goes 30 5. more. From the 
 station into the town 1 krone. Lug¬ 
 gage extra—portmanteau 15 b. Any 
 dispute is settled at the nearest 
 police station. It is the number of 
 the cab, not, as in London, the 
 number of the driver, which the pas¬ 
 senger has to take notice of, for the 
 sake of possible complaint. The 
 fare by the hour is 1 kr. 50 b. After 
 midnight all fares are doubled. 
 
 A carriage for the day costs 16 kr., 
 and it may be procured at any of the 
 hotels. On Sundays the charge is 
 higher. 
 
 Omnibuses and Tramivays tra¬ 
 verse the town in different directions 
 at cheap fares, and connect the old 
 town inside the ramparts with the 
 suburbs and the neighbourhood. 
 The cars of the street - railways 
 (spot-vogue) are very good, and used 
 by all classes without distinction. 
 
 b. Hotels.— H. d’Angleterre, well 
 situated in the Kongens Nytorv, 
 large, comfortable (D. 6), best in 
 Denmark; a handsome house, fair 
 table d’hote, waiters slow. II. 
 Phoenix, in Bredgade, good; H. 
 Royal, Strand, opposite the palace 
 of Christiansborg (E. 6); H. Kon- 
 gen af Danmark, in the central 
 quarter of Gammemholm (E. G). 
 H. Dag mar; H. National. Waiters, 
 mostly German, speak English. 
 Jenibane H. and II. Bellevue, near 
 the station, are smaller. For a 
 long stay, Clausen’s Hotel Garni. 
 
 Restaurants. — Seekamp, Holmen’s 
 Canal; Vincent, 34 Kongens Ny¬ 
 torv (Hotel d(Angleterre) ; Ryd¬ 
 berg s, Keller Ostergade, 13; Re¬ 
 staurant du Boulevard, opposite the 
 Tivoli; and others. None very good. 
 
 Cafes are numerous; the best are 
 Stephan a Porta, Kongens Nytorv 17; 
 Gianelli and Co., corner of Kongens 
 Nitorv and Ostergade. 
 
 Confectioner. — Richardt, Hoved- 
 vatsgade. 
 
 E 
 
50 ROUTE 8 . -COPENHAGEN .* HISTORY. 
 
 Sea-bathing establishments in the 
 harbour and along the coast. The 
 best at Cliarlottenlund and Klampen- 
 borg, easily readied by railway. 
 
 Romanbuths in Tordenskjolclsgade, 
 near Kongens Nitorv. 
 
 Post-office, 33, Kjbbmagergade; 
 open 7’30 a.m. to 9 p.m. ; postage in 
 the town 4 o., inland, 8 b., to Eng¬ 
 land, 20 o. 
 
 Telegraph Stations (20 words in¬ 
 land, 50 b., England, 4 kr.) at the 
 General Post-Office, the Exchange, 
 railway-stations,, and the Custom 
 House. 
 
 Railways and steamers, see below, 
 and consult the latest official bi¬ 
 monthly Reiseliste (20 b.). 
 
 Police Stations distinguishable by 
 a green lantern outside. 
 
 Bankers: National Bank at Hol- 
 men’s Canal, Privat Bank in the 
 Exchange, both open 10 to 3; Smidt 
 and Le Maire, 15 Kongens Nytorv. 
 
 British Embassy in Bredgade 26, 
 opposite Hotel Phoenix (D. 6). Con¬ 
 sulate, Kvsesthusgade 5. Hours, 10-2. 
 
 English Church service in Storm- 
 gade 21, on Sundays at 11 a.m. 
 Roman Catholic Chapel in Bred¬ 
 gade. Greek Catholic Chapel in 
 Bredgade. Synagogue in Crystal- 
 gade near the round tower. 
 
 The best Shops are in Ostergade 
 and Kjbbmagergade. For Banish 
 specialties we may mention: the 
 Royal Porcelain Manufactory near 
 the Round Tower, for biscuit-china 
 statuettes, &c., after Thorvaldsen ; 
 Henriques, 8 Amagertorv, for the 
 works from Bing and Groendhal’s 
 porcelain manufactory; Budtz Muller 
 (fe Co., 21 Bredgade, photographs of 
 Thorvaldsen’s works, &c.; P. Hertz, 
 corner of Kjbbmagergade and Kron- 
 prindsensgade, jewellery from an¬ 
 tique Scandinavian patterns ; C. A. 
 Trolle, corner of Ostergade and Pile- 
 straede, furrier ; Salmonsen, 10 Bred¬ 
 gade, stationery, maps, &c. 
 
 Books and Photographs, &c., J. 
 Holm, Kjbbmagergade, No. 8. 
 
 Denmarlc. 
 
 Tobacco, Cigars, &c., Messrs. A. M. 
 Herschsprung & Sons, 6 Ostergade. 
 
 c. Copenhagen has at present about j 
 222,000 Inhabitants, and is rapidly j 
 increasing in size and population. 
 Although dating from the 12th cen¬ 
 tury, it contains few old buildings I 
 and wears a modern aspect, owing 
 to the extensive fires to which it has 
 been subjected; in 1728,1640 houses 
 were destroyed; in 1795, 950 houses 
 were burned; and in 1807,305 houses 
 were destroyed by the bombardment 
 of the English. It owes its first 
 prosperity to the famous Bishop 
 Absalon, who lived in the 13th cen¬ 
 tury, and it became a royal residence 
 in 1443. It has been a fortress, and 
 towards the sea it is still defended 
 by forts and a Citadel at the N.E. 
 angle of the city; but the fortifica¬ 
 tions on the land side are not equal 
 to the requirements of modern times, 
 and have been demolished, and the 
 ground partly built on, partly con¬ 
 verted into a promenade. Projects 
 are on foot for defences more in ac¬ 
 cordance with modem science and 
 artillery. 
 
 The Forts Provesten, Middelfort, 
 and Tre Kroner are armed with 
 cast-steel Krupp guns of large 
 calibre; and a gunboat recently 
 constructed for harbour defences 
 carries a 60-ton Krupp gun. 
 
 Copenhagen has played a con¬ 
 siderable part in the history of Den¬ 
 mark, and has sustained several 
 sieges, notably in 1658-59, when 
 the King of Sweden, Carl Gustav, 
 assaulted the town in vain, and in 
 1807 when the city was bombarded 
 and captured by the English fleet 
 (see Introd. § 8). Until lately it 
 was not a very healthy place. The 
 plague was a frequent guest, and 
 on one occasion, in 1711, 22,500 died 
 from a visitation of this scourge ; in 
 1853 the cholera carried off about 
 4700. But now sanitary matters 
 are being attended to. The water 
 supply is excellent and abundant, 
 
Denmark. route 8.—Copenhagen : diary or sights. 
 
 51 
 
 being derived from large artesian 
 wells at some distance; but the low- 
 level of the ground renders the 
 drainage question a very difficult 
 one to deal with satisfactorily. 
 
 The city consists of two parts; 
 Copenhagen proper, on the island of 
 Sealand, and Christianshavn, on the 
 small island of Amager, separated 
 from the former island by a narrow 
 arm of the sea forming the harbour, 
 which is generally entered from the 
 north, the southern entrance being 
 difficult of approach. The harbour 
 is safe, deep, and capacious, and the 
 traffic by sea considerable. 
 
 The town has a friendly, animated 
 aspect, though not striking from 
 architectural beauty. Its four royal 
 palaces give it an air of dignity, and 
 it is rich in institutions connected 
 with science and the learned pro¬ 
 fessions, and in buildings devoted to 
 charitable purposes. 
 
 The principal objects of interest 
 are ** Thorvaldsen's Museum, *Frue 
 Kirlce, the **Museum of Northern 
 Antiquities , the Ethnographic Mu¬ 
 seum, and the **Historical Collec¬ 
 tion at Rosenborg Castle, the Ex¬ 
 change, the Round Tower, and Tivoli. 
 
 A convenient disposition of the 
 day in Copenhagen is to visit the 
 museums, &c., in the morning, to 
 ride one of Mr. Lorup’s horses after 
 luncheon, and to dine and spend the 
 evening at Klampenborg, returning 
 by the last train. Or museums and 
 ride in the morning; boat to Skods- 
 borg or Rungsted (capital bathing) 
 in the afternoon, and Tivoli in tire 
 evening. 
 
 A drive from the Kongens Nytorv 
 along the Langelinie —a favourite 
 promenade outside the citadel at the 
 entrance to the harbour—down the 
 Ejserlighedssti lakes—encircling the 
 inner city on the land side—and on 
 to the shady Park of Erederiksberg, 
 would take about 2 hrs., and give the 
 traveller a good general idea of the 
 town. A card of admission may be 
 obtained at the hotels. 
 
 The days and hours of admission 
 during the summer months to the 
 Museums, &c., are given below, but 
 as they are changed from time to 
 time, the traveller should consult the 
 ‘ Dagbladet ’ newspaper. 
 
 Monday. —Botanic Garden, 8 to 
 2, I to 7 ; Etlmog. Mus., 10 to 12 ; 
 Cabinet of coins, 12 to 2. 
 
 Tuesday. —Engravings, 11 to 2; 
 Archainlogical collection, 12 to 2; 
 Thorvald. Mus., 12 to 3; Northern 
 Antiq., 5 to 7. 
 
 Wednesday. —Ethnog. Mus., 10 to 
 12, b to 7; Round Tower, 12 to 1; 
 Picture Gallery, 12 to 2 ; Zool. Mus., 
 12 to 2 ; Thorvald. Mus., 12 to 3; 
 Arsenal, 1 to 3. 
 
 Thursday. —Botanic Garden, 8 to 
 2, 4 to 7 ; Thorvald. Mus., 9 to 12 ; 
 Northern Antiq., 12 to 2 ; Picture 
 Gallery, 12 to 2. 
 
 Friday. —Ethnog. Mus., 10 to 12 ; 
 Engravings, 11 to 12 ; Picture Gal¬ 
 lery, 12 to 2; Museum of Minerals, 
 12'to 2. 
 
 Saturday. —Anthropol. Mus., 9 to 
 11; Round Tower, 12 to 1; Northern 
 Antiq., 12 to 2 ; Picture Gallery, 12 
 to 2; Thorvald. Mus., 11 to 3. 
 
 Sunday. —Thorvald. Mus., 11 to 
 2 ; Picture Gallery, 12 to 2 ; Ethnog. 
 Mus., 12 to 2; Northern Antiq., 12 
 to 2; Zool. Mus., 12 to 2. 
 
 Daily. —Yor Frue ch., 9 to 11 
 (Friday 10.30) ; Rosenborg and 
 Christiansborg castles by ticket (6 
 kroner for 1-12 persons), tickets 
 procured at the hotels; Zoological 
 Garden, 40 6.; Moltke collection ; 
 Academy of Art, Yor Frelsers ch.; 
 Botanical Garden, from 1 till dusk ; 
 palm-house, 3 to 6 p.m., except on 
 Saturdays; hot-houses, Wed. Frid., 
 2 to 4, Sundays, 3 to 6; Royal and 
 University Libraries, 11 to 2; Rosen¬ 
 borg Gardens. 
 
 The admission to the museums is 
 free (except the Rosenborg), and 
 gentlemen who are officially con¬ 
 nected with the collections as direc¬ 
 tors, inspectors, &c., are generally 
 present when they are open, in order 
 e 2 
 
52 ROUTE 8. -COPENHAGEN : CHRISTIANSBORG PALACE. Denmark. 
 
 to explain objects of interest to 
 visitors, particularly foreigners, of 
 course gratuitously. 
 
 The centre of the town is formed 
 by the large and handsome square, 
 Kongens Nytorv (D. E. 6), in the 
 middle of which is the equestrian 
 statue of King Christian V., with 
 allegorical figures, a work of small 
 artistic merit, but forming, with its 
 enclosure of green and flowers, a 
 good centre. Here are the Hotel 
 d'Angleterre, the restaurants of Vin¬ 
 cent and Schwalbe, the cafes of Porta 
 and Gianelli, the Eoyal Theatre, the 
 Academy of Arts, and Count Moltke’s 
 gallery. From this square issue 
 several leading thoroughfares. Bred- 
 gade, the handsomest street in Copen¬ 
 hagen, leads in a straight line to the 
 esplanade of the citadel, past St. 
 Anne plads, the British Embassy, 
 Hotel Phoenix, several palaces of the 
 nobility, the Amalienborg , the marble 
 church (now in course of restoration), 
 Surgical Academy, the Eoman Ca¬ 
 tholic Chapel, and the Fredrik’s 
 Hospital; turning to the right at 
 the end of Bredgade we reach 
 Langelinie and the custom-house 
 pier. 
 
 Parallel with Bredgade is Store 
 Kongensgade, which is continued in 
 Osterbro and the Strandvei. Form¬ 
 ing a corner with Store Kongensgade 
 is Gothersgade , which leads past 
 Rosenborg Garden (entrance in Kron- 
 prindsessegade) and the Botanic 
 Gardens and the Commune Hospital 
 to Norrebro, or the northern suburb. 
 Ostergade, the narrow central street 
 of Copenhagen, leads from Kongens 
 Nytorv to another square Hoibro- 
 2 >lads, which is only separated by a 
 canal from the open place in front 
 of Christiansborg palace, and from 
 ■which Kjobmagergade, which forms 
 a corner witli Ostergade, leads past 
 f lic General Post-office to the Eound 
 Tower. The continuation of Oster- 
 gadc beyond Hdibroplads is formed 
 
 by Amagertorv (where the peasants 
 from Amager may be seen in their 
 costume, and an old house, dated 
 1610, may be observed), and Yim- 
 melslcaftet, which leads to Gammel- 
 torv (the old market-place). 
 
 From this latter Frue Kirke and 
 the University are easily reached by 
 turning to the right, whilst Frederiks- 
 berggade continues the line through 
 the western entrance of the town to 
 Tivoli and the railway station, past 
 the so-called Frihedstotte —an obelisk 
 with allegorical figures. Faith, 
 Bravery, Patriotism, Industry, 
 erected in 1797 in memoiy of the 
 abolition of villeinage under Chris¬ 
 tian VII., 1699—and by way of 
 Vesterbro and Frederiksborg allee to 
 the park of Frederiksborg. 
 
 Finally a large thoroughfare opens 
 into Kongens Nytorv, near the Eoyal 
 Theatre, and leads past the new 
 building of the National Bank and 
 Holmen’s Kirke, to Christiansborg 
 Palace and adjoining buildings ; 
 thence turning to the left past the 
 Exchange, the bridge Knippelsbro 
 leads to Christianshavn, with Vor 
 Frelser’s Kirke, and to Amager. 
 
 d. The largest public building is 
 Christiansborg Palace (E. 5, 6), a 
 conspicuous object from the sea and 
 from every eminence in the neigh¬ 
 bourhood. It is situated on an island 
 bounded by the harbour and by 
 canals, across which several bridges 
 give approach to it. The earliest 
 castle was built in 1168, but this 
 was several times destroyed and re¬ 
 built. When Copenhagen became a 
 Eoyal residence the castle was much 
 improved, and Christian I. and his 
 son, King Hans, built a magnificent 
 banqueting-hall, at the entrance of 
 which were two bassi-relievi of the 
 latter and his queen. These are 
 now placed in the entrance-hall of 
 the Eoyal Library, and are all that 
 remains of that structure. A new 
 and more extensive edifice was 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 8.-ROYAL PICTURE GALLERY. 
 
 erected in 1725-27, but demolished 
 in order to make room for a splendid 
 palace, built 1733-70, which was one 
 of the handsomest in Europe. This 
 was destroyed by fire in 1791, and it 
 was only in 1828 that the present 
 building, inferior to its predecessor, 
 was completed. It has never been 
 permanently occupied, but reserved 
 for state festivities. The facade is 
 imposing, and ornamented with 4 
 colossal bronze statues executed from 
 designs of Thorvaldsen, one, Her¬ 
 cules, by the great sculptor himself, 
 the other three, Minerva, Nemesis, 
 and iEsculapius by Bissen. The 
 four figures were intended to typify 
 Strength, Wisdom, Justice, and 
 Truth; but when Thorvaldsen, who 
 was in Italy, received the letter con¬ 
 taining the order, he read by mistake 
 “ Sundhed,” that is Health, instead 
 of “ Sandhed,” which means Truth, 
 and thus iEsculapius came to figure 
 here, with Hercules, Minerva, and 
 Nemesis. In the tympanum of the 
 portico is a group, likewise from a 
 design of Thorvaldsen, representing 
 Jupiter, surrounded by other deities. 
 The interior can be see daily (fee 
 G kr. for a party) by application to 
 the steward or “ Slotsforvalter ” 
 (Toihusgade 17, near the Royal 
 Library). The *Riddersal or Ban- 
 queting-hall is very large, 120 ft. by 
 50 ft., and 14 ft. high to the ceiling, 
 decorated in white and gold, with a 
 frieze hy Bissen: the triumphal 
 procession of Ceres and Bacchus. 
 In the ante-room of the hall is a copy 
 in marble of Thorvaldsen’s famous 
 frieze, in Count Sommariva's villa 
 at Como, Alexander's entry into 
 Babylon. Several of the rooms con¬ 
 tain pictures by Danish masters such 
 as Lund and Eckersberg, and on the 
 queen’s staircase there is a fine group 
 by Jerichau, Hercules and Hebe , as 
 well as a number of statues, repre¬ 
 senting mythological characters, by 
 Bissen. 
 
 In tire centre of the enclosure in 
 front of the palace is a bronze 
 
 equestrian statue of Frederik VII. 
 by Bissen, erected 1873. 
 
 The palace contains, amongst 
 other apartments for public use, the 
 halls of the Chambers of Parliament 
 or Things. In the upper story is 
 the 
 
 e. Royal Picture Gallery (open, free, 
 from May 1 to Oct. 31, on Sund., 
 Wed., Thurs., Frid., and Saturd., 
 12 till 2. Catalogue in French 1 kr.; 
 entrance through the middle gate, 
 staircase to the left). The gallery 
 consists of two parts, the general 
 collection, and the collection of 
 modern Danish paintings. The 
 general collection is amongst the 
 more important ones—as far as 
 Dutch painters are concerned, but 
 it is comparatively poor in Italian 
 works. In the 16th and 17th cen¬ 
 turies there was a very close con¬ 
 nection between Denmark and Hol¬ 
 land, and numerous Dutch painters 
 found employment in Denmark: 
 many of the best specimens of the 
 Dutch school were bought in Fre¬ 
 derik V.’s time at the sale of Car¬ 
 dinal Valenti’s collection. The first 
 three rooms (A, B, and C) which 
 look into the courtyard, contain 
 mostly large paintings — amongst 
 which the best are a Salvator Rosa : 
 Jonah preaching to the Nine vites, and 
 Rubens, the Judgment of Solomon. 
 Carl v. Wander, by whom there are 
 several pictures, was horn in Den¬ 
 mark of Dutch parents. Rooms II. 
 to VIII. contain Dutch, Flemish, 
 and a few old German pictures. We 
 notice as the most interesting: room 
 II., Rembrandt, Christ at Emrnaus, 
 A. v. Everdingen, a landscape ; in 
 room III., two specimens of Ruysdael, 
 three by Backhuysen, a sunrise by 
 Both; room IV., a very fine flower- 
 piece by J. v. Haysum in excellent 
 preservation; room V., Seapiece by 
 Dubbels, Backhuysen’s master; two 
 specimens by Everdingen ; room VI., 
 three portraits by Fr. Mieris, Sen., 
 three heads by Rubens, particularly 
 
54 route 8. —Copenhagen : Thorvaldsen’s museum. Denmark. 
 
 one representing the Abbot Mattli. 
 Irselius, a very good Gerard Dow, 
 the Quack Doctor; an interior by 
 Slingelandt; room VII., two heads 
 by Rembrandt; room IX., several 
 specimens of Ruysdael, L. Cranach, 
 Hans Memling. Rooms IX. and X. 
 contain Italian and a few French 
 pictures, of which a St. Catharine 
 by B. Luini is the best. Observe 
 C. Bloch’s Christian II. in prison; 
 Van Some’s Charles I. of England 
 as P. of Wales; Myten’s Charles I. 
 in Robes of the Garter; in the back¬ 
 ground old Whitehall before it was 
 burned down. The numbers are 
 frequently changed, and the cata¬ 
 logue is bad, but in each room there 
 is a plan of the pictures, with the 
 masters’ names, &c. 
 
 In the first of the rooms devoted 
 to Danish masters we note C. F. So¬ 
 rensen,* Entrance into the Sound; 
 Sonne, Battle of the 5th of June, 
 1848; C. Bloch, the daughter of 
 Jairus; Fxner, the Sick Child; 
 and several other clever pictures 
 exhibiting the Danish costume; 
 Rump, Landscape in North Sealand ; 
 A. Melby,* Eddystone Lighthouse. 
 In the second room: Gertner, a 
 Portrait; Const. Hansen, Scene at 
 Naples on theMolo; Heinrich Han¬ 
 sen* Salle des Francs, in the Hotel 
 de Ville, at Bruges. In the third 
 room: ** two pictures by Exner, 
 representing scenes from Amager. 
 In the fourth room: Heinrich Han¬ 
 sen, a hall at Rosenborg; Sonne,* 
 the Battle of Idsted, between the 
 Danes and the Holstein Insurgents, 
 25th July, 1850 ; Marstrand,* scene 
 from L. Holberg’s play Erasmus 
 Montanus, representing the hero, a 
 learned Bachelor of Arts, disputing 
 with the clerk of his native village ; 
 J. C. Dahl (Norwegian by birth), 
 3 landscapes; Jens duel* portrait 
 of the artist and his wife, and 
 other portraits. In the sixth room ; 
 SJcovgaard,* Landscape; Marstrand, 
 another scene from Holberg, &e. 
 Observe also Nos. 234, 341, and 533. 
 
 Facing the palace to the right, in 
 immediate connection with it, is Slots- 
 Ttirhen or the Chapel Royal, built in 
 the same style as the castle, and 
 tastefully arranged in the interior, 
 but without any special attractions. 
 
 The Palace contains a fine riding- 
 school, the entrance to which is by a 
 door on the left, a short distance 
 beyond the entrance to the Thor¬ 
 valdsen’s Museum. This enclosure 
 may be used by those who procure 
 horses from Mr. Lorup (Toikurgade 
 13), one of tire King’s riding-masters, 
 and in wet weather will be found 
 very useful. 
 
 Close behind the chapel is 
 
 f. *Thorvaldsen's Museum, E. 5, 
 erected by the city of Copenhagen, 
 1839-1848, to contain a collection of 
 his works, the considerable collec¬ 
 tions of pictures, books, cameos, &c., 
 which he had formed and bequeathed 
 to the city, and finally to receive the 
 mortal remains of the great sculptor 
 himself. This last circumstance, that 
 the building is not only a museum 
 but a mausoleum, is to be borne in 
 mind in judging of the style and 
 decoration of the building, for which 
 the motives were borrowed from 
 Etruscan and classical sepulchral 
 architecture. The frescoes outside 
 represent the triumphant reception 
 of Thorvaldsen on his return to his 
 native country, Sept. 17, 1838, and 
 the removal of the sculptures to this 
 place, but they have suffered much 
 from the climate. The building 
 forms a quadrangle, and has two 
 stories. The lower contains only 
 sculptures, the upper story pictures 
 and other collections, as well as some 
 sculptures not elsewhere accommo¬ 
 dated. In each story there is a corri¬ 
 dor looking into the courtyard, and 
 a series of small rooms, lit by hign 
 windows from the outside. On the 
 ground floor each of these chambers 
 contains generally one principal figure 
 with a number of- bassi-relievi, &c. 
 (English catalogue, 45 o.) 
 
Denmark. 
 
 route 8.—Thorvaldsen’s museum. 
 
 Bertel Thorvaldsen was born on 
 Nov. 19th, 1770. His father was of 
 Icelandic descent, and was a ship’s 
 carpenter and carver of figure-heads. 
 Bertel entered the Academy of Arts 
 in 1791 at the age of eleven, and two 
 years later carried oif the principal 
 prize. In 1797 he went to Koine. 
 His first great work was the Jason 
 (Cabinet 5, No. 51), which in 1803 
 attracted the attention of Thomas 
 Hope, an English banker, who 
 ordered its reproduction in marble. 
 
 1—21 Ground Floor, xxii—xlii—First Floor. 
 
 At this time Thorvaldsen’s means 
 were nearly exhausted, and he was 
 on the point of returning to Copen¬ 
 hagen, when the order was given, 
 and he was thus enabled to remain 
 in Rome. The Jason was the first 
 of his works which excited general 
 attention, and his success dates from 
 1803. When Thorvaldsen returned 
 to Copenhagen, sixteen years later, 
 he was the most famous sculptor in 
 
 Europe. Bacchus and Ganymede 
 (Cabinet 1, No. 21) appeared in 
 1805; Hebe (Cabinet 6, No. 638), 
 and Fsyclie, 1806; Adonis (Cabinet 
 17, No. 53); Mercury, as the slayer 
 of Argus (Cabinet 10, No. 4), a 
 superlative work in 1818; and the 
 Graces in 1819. The Entry of 
 Alexander into Babylon was executed 
 in 1811 by order of Napoleon I., for 
 the decoration of the Quirinal. In 
 1820 Thorvaldsen returned to Rome, 
 and remained there till 1839, when 
 he revisited Copenhagen, where he 
 died in March 1844. He is said to 
 have produced nearly 500 works. 
 
 On entering the corridor on the 
 ground floor we observe to the left 
 the model of the well-known Lion 
 of Lucerne. Turning to the left, we 
 enter the Great Hall, or Vestibule, 
 where several colossal monuments 
 have found place, particularly those 
 of 123, Poniatoivsld; 135, Schiller; 
 142, Pius VII. in the Church of 
 St. Peter; 113, Copernicus; 114, 
 Gutenberg; 503, the famous frieze, 
 the Entry of Alexander into Babylon, 
 executed for the Quirinal in Rome. 
 505 is the variation of the same exe¬ 
 cuted for Count Sommariva. Re¬ 
 turning to the corridor we observe, 
 in that part which runs along the 
 long side of the building, the figures 
 composing the group of St. John 
 preaching in the icilderness, 59-70, 
 which can here be studied far better 
 than in their place in the tympanum 
 of the Frue Kirke (Our Lady’s 
 Church). The cabinets behind this 
 corridor, 1 to 11, contain the Gany¬ 
 mede (1); Amor and Psyche (2) ; the 
 Graces (3); Venus (4); Jason (5); 
 Hebe (6); Mars and Cupid (7); 
 Hope, and the relief in marble, 
 Night and Day (8); Vulcan (9); 
 Mercury (10). 11 and 12 are not 
 
 of special interest. Crossing the 
 Chrisms Hall we come to 21, which 
 contains the statue of Christian IV. 
 in the Rosenborg Palace. Fre- 
 derik VII. (20); the Shepherd Boy 
 (176); Hvlas and the Nymphs (19); 
 
56 route 8 . —Copenhagen : ethnographic museum. Denmark. 
 
 the Three Graces with the Arrow of 
 Love, and the Relief of the Muses 
 (328-336) (Cabinet 18); Adonis 
 (53); Nessus and Deianira (480) 
 (Cabinet 17); Love the Ruler of the 
 Elements, 377-380 in relief (Cabinet 
 16); Victories in relief (Cabinet 15); 
 Ganymede with the Eagle (Cabinet 
 14); the Couching Lion (121), and 
 the model of the statue of Byron 
 (130), the original of which is in the 
 Library of Trinity College, Cam¬ 
 bridge. We have now completed 
 the circuit of the ground floor, and 
 are near the entrance. 
 
 At the opposite end of the quad¬ 
 rangle from that which contains the 
 colossal monuments is the Hall of 
 Christ, in which the figures of our 
 Lord and the Twelve Apostles, exe¬ 
 cuted for Our Lady’s Church in 
 Copenhagen, are placed together, 
 producing a wonderful effect, by the 
 solemn beauty and deep expression 
 of the individual statues. On the 
 staircase stands the model for the 
 Hercules in front of Christian.sborg 
 Palace. 
 
 In the upper story we notice a 
 number of fair pictures. In the 
 22nd room, Roman children, by 
 Williams, and a landscape in Nor¬ 
 way, by Dahl, Nos. 184, 185 ; in the 
 23rd, two pictures from Roman life, 
 by Meyer; in the 24th, a waterfall, 
 by Dahl (183) ; in the 25th, a picture 
 by Blanch, representing Thorvaldsen, 
 and other artists in a Roman Osteria, 
 also a landscape by the Danish 
 painter Kierscliou. In the 26th, a 
 portrait of Thorvaldsen, by Horace 
 Vernet; fruits and flowers, by Jensen 
 (231, 232); a Danish landscape by 
 Buntzen (204); and a sea-piece by 
 Melleye (264). Room 27, Flowers, 
 by Jensen ; Italian scenes, by Dahl; 
 Rooms 28 to 30, without interest; 
 Room 31, a good picture by Fioroni 
 (No. 78); Room 33, sketches for 
 Statues and Monuments; Room 35, 
 Egyptian Antiquities; Room 36, 
 Greek, Etruscan, and Roman An¬ 
 tiquities; Jloom 37, Antique gems 
 
 and pastes; Room 38, Coins; Room 
 39, Antique Sculptures. Note 35ce 
 uncatalogued, but, although much 
 mutilated, evidently the remains of 
 a fine head; Room 40, Antique 
 terra-cotta vases; Room 41, Thor¬ 
 valdsen’s books; plaster casts of 
 antique busts; portrait of Thor¬ 
 valdsen, by Magnus; Room 42, his 
 furniture, some pictures he used to 
 have in his own room, and two works 
 which occupied him on the last days 
 of his life, viz. a bust of Luther, and 
 a sketch for a basso-relievo, also 
 Thorvaldsen’s bust, by V. Bissen. 
 
 In the middle of the courtyard 
 decorated in Pompeian style, the 
 artist lies buried under a bed of 
 ivy. The granite frame bears the in¬ 
 scription : Bertel Thorvaldsen, born 
 19th Nov., 1770; died 24th March, 
 1844. The cellar contains Thorvald¬ 
 sen’s earliest works, a collection of 
 casts, &c., but is not accessible to 
 the general public. Thorvaldsen’s. 
 Museum is the most popular public 
 collection in Copenhagen, and it 
 has done far more for the education 
 of the people than any other. 
 
 On the exterior a fine group, Victory 
 in a Quadriga, executed in bronze, 
 after a sketch of Thorvaldsen’s (three 
 of the horses by Bissen), surmounts 
 the facade. 
 
 A short distance across the bridge 
 to the left is the Prindsens Palais, 
 (E. 5), formerly inhabited by mem¬ 
 bers of the Royal Family, but now 
 devoted to the Ethnographic Mu¬ 
 seum, the Museum of Northern 
 Antiquities, the collection of Classic 
 Antiquities, the Royal collection of 
 Engravings, and the Royal Society 
 of Science. 
 
 g. The Ethnographic Museum (open 
 Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 
 10 to 12 ; Sunday 12 to 2; catalogue 
 in Danish, 50 6.), is one of the largest 
 and best arranged of its bind. Its 
 object is to illustrate the civilization 
 of the various nations outside Scan- 
 
Denmark, route 8.—museum of northern antiquities. 
 
 57 
 
 dinavia anterior to tlie classic period 
 and the development founded on 
 this, by comparison with savage 
 tribes still existing, whose mode of 
 life, &c., has not yet assumed the 
 characteristics of modern European 
 culture. The collection has been 
 re-arranged by Mr. Worsaae, and 
 occupies 3 stories. 
 
 On the ground floor the 5 first 
 rooms contain the first division, that 
 of Prehistoric Antiquities, represent¬ 
 ing the stone, bronze, and early iron 
 ages in every part of the world. 
 Boom 1, Europe; Boom 2, Asia, 
 Africa,South America, and Caraibyan 
 Islands; Boom 3, Central America 
 and Mexico; Boom 4, North America; 
 Boom 5, Greenland. The remainder 
 of the collection illustrates the civi¬ 
 lization of modern extra-European 
 nations. Booms 6-9, the Esquimaux 
 of Greenland; Boom 10, the Esqui¬ 
 maux of North America ; Boom 11, 
 the Esquimaux of Northern Asia, 
 and the North American Indians; 
 Boom 12, North American Indians ; 
 Boom 13, Indians of Northern, Cen¬ 
 tral, and Southern America; Boom 
 14, South American Indians. On 
 the staircase are objects referring 
 to the last-named tribes and to the 
 negroes in South America. On the 
 first floor the rooms marked 16 and 
 17 refer to the native African 
 negroes; Boom 18, Hottentots, Bush¬ 
 men, Kaffirs, &c.; Booms 19-24, the 
 Malays and other natives of the 
 Indian Archipelagoes; Booms 25-27, 
 the Papuans, and other natives of the 
 Australian Archipelago, and those 
 of Siberia. Boom 28 and the stair¬ 
 case, Japanese. The second floor is 
 devoted to the Chinese, the natives 
 of East India, Persia, Arabia, and 
 the Turks. Note particularly in 
 this museum the Esquimaux dresses, 
 sledges, canoes, tents, &c. ; also the 
 North American collections; the 
 splendid specimens from Guinea, 
 Papua, and the Solomon Islands ; 
 and the collections to illustrate 
 China. 
 
 h. The Museum of **Northern An¬ 
 tiquities was founded in 1807, at the 
 suggestion of Prof. E. Nyerup, but 
 brought to its present perfection- 
 mainly by its late director Mr. C. 
 Thomsen , who occupied this post for 
 50 years. This collection was the 
 first in the arrangement of which his 
 celebrated theory of the succession 
 of three stages of civilization, charac¬ 
 terised by' the use respectively of 
 Stone, Bronze, and Iron, was carried 
 out; and the fact that so large a 
 collection could be arranged satis¬ 
 factorily in conformity with that 
 view, has had a very large share in 
 its early triumph amongst scientific 
 archaeologists. Between 1866-69, 
 the Museum was re-organized by the 
 present director, the distinguished- 
 scholar, Mr. Worsaae. Thanks to 
 the great interest awakened in the 
 Danish nation at large for the an¬ 
 tiquities of the country—an interest 
 which the existence of the Museum 
 itself greatly contributes to increase; 
 and thanks, also, to the liberality of 
 the Danish Government, which 
 allows the finder of any antiquarian 
 objects of precious metals the full 
 value if they are offered to the Mu¬ 
 seum ; this is constantly increased, 
 and is by far the largest and most 
 complete in Europe. It is unrivalled 
 in its gold ornaments. 
 
 The entrance is across the court¬ 
 yard of the Prindsens Palais. Ad¬ 
 mission ( free ) Thurs., Sat., and 
 Sund., 12 to 2, Tues., 5 to 7. Cata¬ 
 logue in French with illustrations 
 (75 6.) by Professor Engelhardt. 
 The entrance-hall contains a bust o£ 
 the late Mr. C. Thomsen, and a num¬ 
 ber of memorial stones with Runic 
 inscriptions in the oldest Danish 
 dialect, closely resembling the 
 modern Icelandic. The ground floor 
 contains objects illustrating the 
 period of Paganism in Denmark. 
 
 First Boom.—Age of Bough Stone. 
 
 In this room are sections and iso¬ 
 lated objects from the celebrated 
 
58 route 8 . —Copenhagen : northern antiquities. Denmark. 
 
 Mtchen middens ( Kjdlckenmod- 
 dinger ) (dust-heaps), which consist 
 of oyster-shells and other refuse from 
 the meals of the ancient inhabit¬ 
 ants of the country, who were in 
 the habit of repairing to the coasts, 
 at certain times of the year, for the 
 purpose of fishing, and whose rude 
 pottery and implements of stone 
 and bone abound in the heaps. 
 Oysters seem to have been very 
 abundant in those days, when the 
 Danish islands were still more nu¬ 
 merous than now, many smaller 
 ones having since coalesced with 
 others, and the neighbourhood of 
 the oyster-banks was evidently the 
 favourite place of resort in the 
 season. In more than 50 places 
 on the coast such accumulations 
 have been discovered in Denmark, 
 where their true nature was also 
 first recognised. They have now 
 been found in other countries as 
 well. The first room also contains 
 specimens from the so-called coast- 
 finds, vast accumulations of such 
 rude stone implements as were used 
 by the earliest savage tribes, and 
 spread along the shores of the sea, of 
 inland lakes, and of rivers. 
 
 Second Boom.—-Age of Bough and 
 Polished Stone. Transition. 
 
 The second room contains speci¬ 
 mens from the several manufactories, 
 of stone implements which have been 
 discovered, showing the mode of 
 manufacture—grindstones for finish¬ 
 ing the beautiful ground implements 
 characteristic of the later division of 
 the stone-age, and many beautiful 
 examples of the period. 
 
 Third Boom.—Age of Polished Stone. 
 
 The third room contains suites 
 of beautifully-worked tools and 
 weapons, from the highest develop¬ 
 ment of the stone-age, as well as 
 entire collections of objects found 
 together in dolmens and other burial- 
 places of that time; and a great 
 
 quantity of amber ornaments. In a 
 peat-bog at Agger in Jutland, more 
 than 1800 pieces of amber were 
 found in a clay vase. 
 
 Fourth and Fifth Booms.—Age of 
 Bronze. 
 
 The fourth and fifth rooms illus¬ 
 trate the bronze-age (to 250 a.c.). 
 The metal consists of 90 per cent, of 
 copper, alloyed with 10 per cent, of 
 tin. Solder was not known. Gold 
 was abundantly employed for various 
 purposes, hut neither iron nor silver 
 were known. There are consider¬ 
 able suites of different classes of 
 tools and arms, and in one case a 
 number of “ lure,” or war trumpets ; 
 on the floor, in the middle of the 
 fourth room, stand several large oak 
 coffins (51, 52, and 54) made of whole 
 trunks hollowed and cut so as to 
 form a sort of trough with lid, in 
 which the bodies, in some instances, 
 were laid with all their garments on, 
 though generally they were burned, 
 and the ashes placed in urns. In 
 these coffins the garments-—the oldest 
 known—were in many cases pre¬ 
 served, and they are shown in the 
 museum. Note particularly some of 
 the bronze knives, and the poignard 
 of Breum in Jutland (No. 59), re¬ 
 markable for its beautiful workman¬ 
 ship. Numerous objects of gold 
 from this period are exhibited in the 
 fifth room (82-85), and the 11 vessels 
 exhibited in case 94, which were 
 found in a clay urn, buried in a 
 peat-bog, where the finder, a poor 
 cottager, had got permission from a 
 richer neighbour and owner of the 
 moor to cut a little peat for fuel. 
 The case No. 90 contains proofs that 
 the bronze objects were of native 
 manufacture, viz. moulds, ingots, 
 bars, and lumps of raw metal. 
 
 Sixth and Seventh Booms.—Early 
 Iron-age. 
 
 This age (250-450, a.d.) was 
 characterised by a strong Koman 
 
Denmark, route 8.—museum of northern antiquities. 
 
 59 
 
 influence. Silver and glass were for 
 the first time known in this age; 
 woollen fabrics were admirably made; 
 ornamentation of every kind became 
 more complex; boats were con¬ 
 structed, and traces of alphabetical 
 signs have been found. History does 
 not inform us of any advances by the 
 llomans so farnorth as Denmark; but 
 numerous Roman antiquities, and 
 coins from the first two centuries, 
 found in that country scattered in 
 various places, deposited with the 
 remains of the dead, or immersed 
 in sacred waters, together with ob¬ 
 jects of unmistakably native ma¬ 
 nufacture, prove that the inhabi¬ 
 tants, at any rate through others, 
 had intercourse with Rome. Two 
 of these ancient sacred lakes were 
 discovered in Schleswig, viz. Ny- 
 dam, which was an inlet from the 
 sea, and Tliorsbjerg near the Slie, 
 and the treasures after being exca¬ 
 vated between 1858-63, by Professor 
 Engelhardt, at the expense of the 
 Danish Government, were formed 
 into a separate collection at Fieri s- 
 borg, excepting the objects shown 
 here in the cases Nos. 106-108, 
 which formed part of the collection 
 of King Frederik VII., now united 
 with the Copenhagen Museum. The 
 collection at Flensborg (now removed 
 to Kiel) was given up to the Ger¬ 
 mans by a special clause in the 
 treaty of peace of Vienna, which 
 terminated the war of 1861. Fac¬ 
 similes of some of the most re¬ 
 markable ornaments of this collec¬ 
 tion are seen in the cases men¬ 
 tioned. The case 105 contains fac¬ 
 similes of two remarkable golden 
 horns , found—one in 1639 and the 
 other in 1734—near Gallehus in 
 Schleswig, but which were stolen 
 at the beginning of this century 
 from a public collection and melted 
 down before they were missed. For¬ 
 tunately they had occupied the atten¬ 
 tion of the learned to such an extent 
 that numerous drawings and descrip¬ 
 tions somewhat compensate for the 
 
 loss of the originals. The cases 
 111-122 contain specimens from an 
 immense store of objects from this 
 period (3rd cent.), discovered in a 
 peat-bog,formerly a sacred lake called 
 Viinose, near Odense. Amongst the 
 objects may be mentioned a beautiful 
 head of a griffin in bronze, of Roman 
 workmanship (111) ; a great quantity 
 of tools, amongst them a plane, with 
 Runic inscription in 70 characters 
 (120); draught-board and men, ba¬ 
 lances, &c. (121). Case 123 contains 
 the objects found at Krayehul, in 
 Fyen,'another antiquarian peat-bog; 
 this deposit belongs to a somewhat 
 laterdate than Vimose, and many of 
 the objects exhibit a very remark¬ 
 able kind of ornamentation repre¬ 
 senting serpents twisted together. 
 
 Eighth Boom.—Later Iron-ages. 
 
 Cases 130-132, second iron- 
 period, Barbaro-Byzantine, between 
 5th and 8th centuries. The de¬ 
 posits (sepulchral and others) of 
 this age are characterised by a 
 peculiar grotesque style of orna¬ 
 mentation, and the coins found in 
 them are mostly of Byzantine origin, 
 425-525 A.c. To this age belong, 
 also, the so-called bracteates, By¬ 
 zantine gold discs, with Runic in¬ 
 scriptions, adapted so as to be worn 
 suspended as ornaments by means 
 of small loops or holes. The figures 
 represented on the bracteates of 
 native make are very irregularly 
 drawn, and on account of their dis¬ 
 torted outlines often difficult to in¬ 
 terpret. Mr. Worsaae supposes that 
 some refer to the heroes of the 
 ancient sagas. 
 
 The late iron-age was doubtless 
 characterised by great splendour. 
 It was the time of the Vikings, and 
 extended between the 8th ceut. and 
 1030 (cases 135-150 in the eighth 
 room). Everywhere are large and 
 handsome heavy swords and battle- 
 axes, often ornamented with in¬ 
 laid silver; large silver buckles of 
 
CO route 8. —Copenhagen : northern antiquities. Denmark. 
 
 peculiar form and perforated work' 
 (138); splendid horse-trappings (143). 
 Two cases contain each the entire 
 contents of a large barrow; in the 
 latter case the body was deposited in 
 an oak coffin enveloped in splendid 
 embroidered garments of wool and 
 silk with gold threads. The case 147 
 contains the objects found in the 
 sepulchres of King Gorin and his 
 Queen Thyra, the first constructor 
 of the Danevirke, who were buried 
 at Jellinge in Jutland (see Rte. 15, 
 p. 95), not far from Veile, where two 
 enormous barrows, almost overtop¬ 
 ping the little village church, and 
 two Runic stones were erected in their 
 memory. The sepulchre had been 
 opened by robbers before the ex¬ 
 cavation in 1861, when only the 
 objects here shown were to be 
 found. Near the door a number 
 of objects are placed, which have 
 been found in the ancient ram¬ 
 part of the Danevirke, viz. a 
 wheel, spades, &c. It is to this 
 period that the Runic stones belong, 
 which are placed in the ante-room. 
 
 Ninth Boom.—Bunic stones, 9th 
 and 10th cents. 
 
 Tenth Boom.—Commencement of 
 Middle Ages. 
 
 On the staircase leading to the 
 first floor are several large articles 
 belonging to the early part of the 
 Middle Ages, particularly stone monu¬ 
 ments from the early times of 
 Christianity in Denmark, partly 
 with Runic inscriptions; also a 
 wood carving from Iceland ; the door 
 of a church with a ring handle of 
 iron inlaid with silver of the 12th 
 cent. 
 
 On the first floor the collection 
 is continued illustrating the Middle 
 Ages. 
 
 Eleventh Boom, First Epoch, 11th 
 to 13th cents., that is, the period 
 characterised in architecture by the 
 
 use of round arches. Most of the 
 objects are for religious use. Several 
 are connected with celebrated men 
 of the period. The case 156 contains 
 a reliquary in the shape of an arm 
 below the elbow, which belonged to 
 St. Olaf of Norway, who established 
 Christianity there, and fell 1030 in 
 the battle of Stiklestad, and who is 
 represented in painting on the 
 antemensal, from the cathedral of 
 Trondlijem of the 13th century. 
 The reliquary was made, according 
 to the inscription, for Princess Helen 
 of Denmark, grand-niece of Kanut 
 the Great. 159 is a magnificent 
 altar-frontal of gilt copper, from a 
 church in Tvenstrap near Horsens, 
 covered with Scripture subjects, re¬ 
 pousse work. Ornaments of a similar 
 kind in 161 from another very old 
 church. Besides these, seven such 
 altars are known to exist in the 
 old Danish provinces. Case 163 
 contains relics of the patron Saint 
 of Denmark, St. Canute, which were 
 found in a reliquary immured in 
 the church of St. Canute at Odense 
 (see Rte. 6). The cross A in this 
 case is the famous Dagmar Cross, 
 that belonged to the popular queen 
 (d. 1212) of King Valdemar I., and 
 was discovered in her sepulchre in 
 the church at Ringsted. It is of 
 Cloisonne enamel, and of Byzantine 
 workmanship. An exact copy of it, 
 with small particles of the relics con¬ 
 tained in the original, was amongst 
 the presents given to the Princess 
 of Wales on her marriage by King 
 Frederik VII. 
 
 Booms 12 to 15 inclusive, illus¬ 
 trate the later part of the Middle 
 Ages, when the pointed arch pre¬ 
 dominated. In the 13£7i. Boom, case 
 181 C, is one of the earliest specimens 
 of printing, viz. a printed Letter of 
 Indulgence, date 1454. The large 
 sculptured group from Ribe in Jut¬ 
 land, representing St. George and 
 the Dragon, dates from about 1510. 
 In the 15£7i Boom the cases 203-4 
 
Denmark. 
 
 61 
 
 ROUTE 8.—CLASSIC 
 
 contain ancient stick am I rings,'with 
 Runic and other characters, serving 
 the purpose of calauders. Cases 
 208-11 contain suits of armour with 
 gold ornaments. On the floor a 
 curious old breech-loading cannon 
 fixed to a piece of oak timber, one 
 of the oldest pieces of ordnapee 
 known. It was found in the wreck 
 of a man-of-war, near the island 
 of Anholt, and is supposed to date 
 from the latter half of the 14th 
 century. 
 
 Rooms 16 to ID inclusive, illus¬ 
 trate the period of the Renaissance , 
 from, 1536-1660, that is to the time 
 of the establishment of the absolute 
 monarchy in Denmark. Amongst the 
 numerous objects special attention 
 may be drawn to (case 217) a shield, 
 attributed by some to Benvenuto 
 Cellini, in the 16th room; two beau¬ 
 tiful silver altars (17th room 231-234) 
 from the 17th century, made in 
 Augsburg for Christian IV., for 
 the oratories in the Royal castles of 
 Husum and Frederiksberg; in the 
 window a fine ivory carving by George 
 Bethel, a German artist (d. 1643), 
 representing the Taking down from 
 the Cross; tapestry from the Kron- 
 borg, manufactured between 1581 
 and 1596 at Elsinore and Slangerup 
 in Sealand; the watch of the great 
 astronomer Tycho Bralie (18th room 
 A), dated 1597, and made in London. 
 
 The staircase, where architectural 
 fragments of different kinds are 
 exhibited, leads to the Library and 
 archives of the museum, open to 
 students on Tuesdays, Thursdays, 
 and Saturdays from 12 to 2. 
 
 The same building, Frindsens 
 Pcdais, contains the collection of 
 Classic and Oriental Antiquities, 
 which however does not offer much 
 of special interest to those who are 
 acquainted with the large collections 
 in London, Paris, Italy, &c., beyond 
 two original heads from the Parthe¬ 
 non, 3 large bassi-relievi from Nine- j 
 
 ANTIQUITIES, COINS, ETC. 
 
 veil, a small painting from Pompeii, 
 &c. Admission (free) Tuesdays 12 
 till 2. 
 
 i. The Royal Collection of Engrav¬ 
 ings and original drawings is also pre¬ 
 served here. Admission (free) Tues¬ 
 days and Fridays 11 to 2. Amongst 
 the principal treasures of this very 
 large collection are a great number 
 of engravings and woodcuts by 
 Albrecht D'urer, a present from the 
 artist to Christian II., as is shown 
 by a note in his journal; also a 
 splendid collection of the works of 
 Marc Antonio Raimondi, the friend 
 of Raphael; many thousands of 
 drawings by Danish painters. 
 
 The Royal Collection of Coins 
 and Medals, formerly at the castle 
 of Rosenborg, is now placed in 
 Frinclsens Pcdais, open Mondays 12 
 till 2. It is a very large collection, 
 less rich in rare and costly pieces 
 than those in the great capitals of 
 Europe, but superior to any in uni¬ 
 versality ; it is the most complete 
 of all in mediaeval coins. Here 
 is the oldest known mediaeval coin 
 with the date of coinage, it is struck 
 by Bishop Uffo in 1247. The medals 
 are very numerous; of Danish gold 
 medals not less than 400 are shown. 
 
 Close to Christiansborg Palace, on 
 the same island, is the Arsenal (E. 6) 
 (open free, Wednesdays 1 to 3 p.m.), 
 possessing a large Collection of Arms 
 of every description, amongst which 
 are some of the oldest known speci¬ 
 mens of fire-arms. Amongst the can¬ 
 non observe one 23J feet long, dating 
 from 1559; two 11-inch mortars, from 
 1692, &c. 
 
 Adjoining the Arsenal is the 
 Royal Library (E. 6), founded by 
 Frederik III. in 1665, containing 
 about 550,000 volumes and 25,000 
 manuscripts. (Open from 11 to 1.) 
 The hall of the library, 250 feet 
 | long, with a gallery, supported by 
 
02 
 
 ROUTE 8.-COPENHAGEN : EXCHANGE. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 06 columns decorated in white and 
 gold, is very fine. In course of time 
 8 other large halls have been ap¬ 
 propriated to the use of the library. 
 The collection of early printed books 
 and block books is very large and 
 valuable; the old Scandinavian and 
 the Oriental MSS. are specially valu¬ 
 able, and there are many volumes 
 which have belonged to historic jjer- 
 sonages. In the entrance-hall are 
 two large figures sculptured in stone, 
 executed in 1503, representing King 
 Hans of Denmark, Norway, and 
 Sweden, and his Queen Christina, 
 which formerly stood at one of the 
 entrances of the palace. 
 
 j. The Exchange (E. 6) is a red¬ 
 brick building in Dutch renaissance, 
 with casements and sculptured orna¬ 
 ments of grey sandstone, and a very 
 striking spire in the shape of 4 
 dragons, whose tapering bodies are 
 twisted together, whilst the heads, 
 forming the base of the spire, turn to 
 the 4 corners of the compass. The 
 interior is modernised, and the large 
 hall decorated with historical car¬ 
 toons by Frohlich with, at the end, 
 a bronze statue of Christian IV., 
 by Thorvaldsen. The exterior in un¬ 
 changed. It was built in 1619-1640 
 by Christian IV., restored 1858, and 
 is one of the best specimens of this 
 style of architecture, which is akin 
 to the Elizabethan in England, and 
 in Denmark generally is described 
 as the style of Christian IV. 
 
 1c. Rosenborg Castle (D. 5), also 
 built by Christian IV., situated in the 
 northern part of the town, and partly 
 surrounded by a public garden, is 
 another very fine specimen of this 
 style, and is, particularly when seen 
 from the garden, a very picturesque 
 building. Its architecture is attri¬ 
 buted to Inigo Jones’s design. It 
 was commenced in 1604, and was 
 then outside the ramparts of the 
 city, and had its own moats and 
 fortification; but subsequently the 
 
 fortifications of the city weie ex¬ 
 tended so as to enclose it. It is one 
 of the most interesting buildings in 
 Copenhagen. 
 
 The surrounding garden, generally 
 called Kongens Have —that is, the 
 King’s Garden—was also planned 
 by Christian IV., and ornamented 
 with fountains and sculptures. A 
 bronze statue of him stands in 
 the little garden. Two magnificent 
 avenues of horse-chestnuts, a group 
 in bronze representing a horse at¬ 
 tacked by a lion, a couple of lions 
 standing near the bridge leading to 
 the castle from the garden, are nearly 
 all that remain of the old garden. 
 Considerable portions also have been 
 applied to other purposes. The hot¬ 
 houses, &c., are very extensive, and 
 a school of gardening is connected 
 with them. The castle has long 
 ceased to be a royal residence, and 
 is now entirely devoted to the very 
 interesting Chronological Collection 
 of the Danish Kings. Admission to 
 view the interior of the castle and 
 the collection can be had at any 
 time on application to the castellan, 
 or at Jantsen’s, 6 Badstuestrsede, and 
 on payment of a fee of 6 kr. for a 
 party of not more than 12 persons. 
 An illustrated guide in Danish and 
 in English (price 3 kr.) can be had 
 at the entrance. 
 
 The collection, which may be 
 compared to that of the Green 
 Vaults at Dresden, or that of the 
 Hotel Cluny at Paris, was founded 
 after the death of Christian IV. in 
 1648, in a room at the castle, where 
 its nucleus still is, and it has now 
 grown by degrees to occupy the 
 whole. Under the management of 
 Mr. Worsaae since 1858, it has 
 been very much augmented and 
 entirely re-arranged. The Museum 
 of Northern Antiquities does not 
 embrace objects of later date than 
 1660, and as the collection at Rosen¬ 
 borg commences with the reign of 
 Christian IV. (1588-1648), and is 
 carried down to the present day, it 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 8.-ROSENBORG CASTLE. 
 
 G3 
 
 supplements the former as an il¬ 
 lustration of the art, customs, &c., 
 of various times. One or more rooms 
 are devoted to the reign of each 
 king, decorated in the style of the 
 period, and filled with contempora¬ 
 neous furniture almost exclusively 
 derived from the royal residences, 
 portraits of the members of the royal 
 family and famous men of their 
 time, and all kinds of objects—gar¬ 
 ments, arms, jewellery, &c.—which 
 have belonged to the king or court 
 in question, or celebrated contem¬ 
 poraries. It is a collection surpassed 
 in richness and variety by very few, 
 as a well-arranged historical collec¬ 
 tion by none. 
 
 The periods illustrated at Rosen- 
 borg are:— 
 
 1. The time between Christian I. 
 and Christian IY., 1148 to 1648 (Re¬ 
 naissance). 
 
 2. From the introduction of ab¬ 
 solutism to the French Revolution, 
 1648 to 1808 (Rococo). 
 
 3. From the French Revolution 
 to our own times, 1808 to 1863. 
 
 In some respects the reign of 
 Christian IV. was the most eventful 
 period in the history of Denmark, 
 and he was a very able monarch 
 (v. p. 13). He and some of his suc¬ 
 cessors were styled 4> Danise, Nor- 
 wegise, Vandalorum, Gothorumque 
 Rex. Dux Schlesvici, Holsatise, Stor- 
 mariae et Dithmarsise. Comes in 
 Oldenborch et Delmenhorst.” 
 
 From the corridor on the ground 
 floor, into which the visitors are first 
 admitted, and of which the ceiling 
 dates from the time of Christian IV., 
 while the walls are hung with por¬ 
 traits from the first 2 centuries of 
 the reign of the house of Oldenburg 
 in Denmark, we turn to the right 
 into the Audience Hall of Christian 
 IV., which is still preserved in its 
 original decoration, with richly carved 
 aud painted oak-panels. 
 
 Amongst the remarkable objects 
 here preserved, we mention in the 
 first place the Oldenborg horn, which 
 
 according to a legend was handed 
 to one of the ancestors of the family, 
 Otto I. of Oldenborg, in the year 
 989 by a fairy, when he halted hot 
 and thirsty in a lonely part of a 
 forest in which he was hunting. She 
 offered him to drink of it, promising 
 him every advantage for himself and 
 his family if he emptied it, but every 
 misfortune if he refused to do so. 
 The knight, however, thought the 
 drink uninviting, and threw it away 
 in disgust. The fairy then demanded 
 her horn again, but Count Otto 
 thought it too good not to be kept, 
 aud it remained ever after in the 
 possession of the family. So far the 
 legend: the truth is that it was 
 made by German artists for Chris¬ 
 tian I. of Denmark in 1479, when 
 he visited the city of Cologne for 
 the sake of effecting a reconcilia¬ 
 tion between the Emperor Frederik 
 
 III. and Duke Charles the Bold 
 of Burgundy. King Christian in¬ 
 tended to dedicate the horn to the 
 holy 3 kings, and deposit it at their 
 chapel at Cologne if his mission was 
 successful, but as this was not the 
 case, he retained it. For a couple 
 of centuries it was preserved at the 
 family castle of Oldenborg, but was 
 subsequently brought to Copen¬ 
 hagen. It is of silver, richly gilt and 
 enamelled, and ornamented with 
 numerous figures, coats of arms (of 
 Denmark, the Empire, Burgundy, 
 «fec.), and devices indicating its desti¬ 
 nation, and referring to the above- 
 mentioned historical event. 
 
 Here are also preserved the earliest 
 specimens of the insignia of the 
 Danish Order of the Elephant— 
 which in dignity corresponds to the 
 Garter—as well as the insignia of 
 the last-named order, which have 
 been conferred upon Danish kings. 
 
 The collection at Rosenborg pos¬ 
 sesses a very rare, and perhaps 
 unique, suite of royal costumes, of 
 which the oldest, worn by Christian 
 
 IV. at his coronation in 1597, is pre¬ 
 served in this room. 
 
ROUTE 8.-COPENHAGEN : ROSENBORG CASTLE. Denmark . 
 
 454 
 
 Close by, in tlie tower, is Christian 
 IV.’s bedroom, where he died in 
 1648. It is still preserved in its 
 •original state of very handsome 
 decoration, and contains many ob¬ 
 jects used by that king. 
 
 The next room was used by Chris¬ 
 tian IV. as a study, and it contains 
 his writing-table and chair, besides 
 a considerable number of elegant and 
 costly objects which belonged to 
 him or his Queen Anna Kathrine. 
 Amongst these observe a saddle and 
 bridle literally sown over with pearls, 
 ' diamonds, and other jewels; a sword 
 used by him for the ceremony of 
 knighting, with a splendidly ena¬ 
 melled gold hilt; a drinking-horn 
 of silver, representing Christian IV. 
 •at the carousal; a beautiful fountain 
 for perfumed water in ebony and 
 silver, 6 ft. high, &c. A number of 
 these objects were made in Denmark 
 itself, where the splendoiu - of the 
 ■court and the nobility in those days 
 afforded a considerable incitement 
 to certain branches of art. 
 
 The next 2 rooms, the Garden 
 Cabinet, and the Dark Chamber, are 
 rather small, and contain objects of 
 the time of Christian IV.’s son 
 Frederik III., 1048-1670, exhibit¬ 
 ing a very different style—that of 
 the Rococo. Observe a cup of rock- 
 crystal with figures of cupids and 
 bassi-relievi, in all about 10 in. high, 
 and of the greatest artistic, merit; 
 and a jewel box of silver, presented 
 by Queen Anna of England to Queen 
 Sophia Amelia of Denmark. Through 
 large crystals in the lid and sides, 
 light is thrown on the beautifully- 
 chased bottom of tbe box, and the 
 whole is covered with thousands of 
 diamonds, and other jewels. When 
 the palace of Christiansborg was 
 destroyed by fire in 1794, this box, 
 which stood in the toilet-room of the 
 rpieen, was carried away by a thief. 
 He was, however, soou discovered by 
 a citizen, who prevailed upon him to 
 sell it him for a small sum of money, 
 fearing lest he might throw it down 
 
 and injure it if he were taxed with 
 the theft. 
 
 We next enter the Marble Hall, 
 which, together with some other 
 rooms, (the South-end Saloon, the 
 Tower Room, and “ the Rose ”) are 
 devoted to the splendid reign of 
 Christian V. (1670-1699), the con¬ 
 temporary and—as far as he could 
 manage it—imitator of Louis XIV. 
 This hall was used by Christian V., 
 and richly decorated according to the 
 then prevailing fashion. Amongst 
 the numerous relics of his reign, we 
 only mention the so-called Wismar 
 Cnp, a very peculiar and elegantly- 
 worked crystal cup, one of the finest 
 objects of this kind in Europe, also 
 a number of articles in ivory, and 
 numerous costumes of the period. 
 
 Ascending the winding staircase 
 to the first floor, visitors first enter a 
 room called “ the Rose,” illustrating 
 the time of Christian V. and Fre- 
 derik IV. (1699-1730), more par¬ 
 ticularly the latter. It is hung with 
 magnificent Italian tapestry, doubt¬ 
 less brought home by Frederik IV. 
 from Italy in 1709 with innumerable 
 other treasures. After having been 
 hung at various royal residences, it re¬ 
 mained at Rosenborg castle for many 
 years unheeded and uncared for, till 
 Mr. Worsaae brought it out of its 
 hiding-place. It is of the very 
 best Florentine workmanship, and 
 has great artistic value. The por¬ 
 traits and the furniture were for¬ 
 merly at Frederiksborg, but saved 
 from tbe fire in 1859. The chair 
 and table in the middle of the 
 floor were formerly used when the 
 king opened the session of the 
 Highest Court of Appeal. Frederik 
 IV. was one of the most liberal and 
 art-loving Danish monarchs, al¬ 
 though he spent much money in suc¬ 
 cessful warfare, and left a full trea¬ 
 sury at his death. Next to Christian 
 IV., no one has left more relics at 
 Rosenborg. Observe 2 gold cups— 
 the Eyder Cup and the Allegiance 
 Cup (in the Mirror Room)—both 
 
 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 8.—KOSEXBORG CASTLE. 
 
 65 
 
 commemorating, with proper inscrip¬ 
 tions, the reunion of the whole of 
 Schleswig, which so long had been 
 a separate fief of the Danish crown, 
 and even for a few decennia quite 
 independent of Denmark, with the 
 Danish realm, whereby the Eyder 
 once more, alter a short interval, 
 became the southern frontier of 
 Denmark. This great state act took 
 place in the reign of Frederik IV. in 
 1720. Unfortunately it was not fol¬ 
 lowed by the proper administrative 
 measures, and the tie between that 
 duchy and the rest of Denmark, 
 which was reknit in 1720, was again 
 torn asunder in 1854, in spite of the 
 inscription on the Eyder cup “that 
 the Eyder would never be separated 
 from the hereditary kingdom of 
 Frederik IV.” Observe also the 
 royal silver font (date 1720, and 
 weighing 180 oz.) used for baptisms 
 in the royal family, a work of great 
 artistic merit. When used, a golden 
 vessel is placed inside the font. 
 Of a very different kind, and pos¬ 
 sessing quite another interest, is a 
 sword which belonged to Charles 
 XII. of Sweden (in the Mirror Room) 
 and was presented by him to Colonel 
 Kruse, a Norwegian officer, who in 
 1716 defended himself with gallantry 
 against a much larger Swedish force 
 under the command of Charles XII. 
 himself, and only surrendered when 
 disabled by numerous Wounds. 
 
 In the North Tower Room there 
 are many ivory objects, and a silver 
 cup used by Peter the Great during 
 his sojourn in Copenhagen in 1716. 
 
 The two following rooms (“the 
 larger room ” and “ the smaller room ” 
 of Carl Andersen’s Catalogue, pp. 
 77-87) illustrate the period of Chris¬ 
 tian VI. (1730-1746), and contain 
 the vase of Magnus Berg, coronation 
 dresses, and some fine cabinets; also 
 the splendid Hirschholm goblet. 
 
 The “ South-east corner Room ” 
 illustrates the time of Frederik V. 
 (1746-1766); and the “ South-west 
 Comer Room ” that of Christian VII. 
 
 [Denmark.] 
 
 (1766-1808.) They contain interest¬ 
 ing costumes, some good glass, a 
 collection of rings, gold pistols of 
 Frederik V., and memorials of the 
 unfortunate Queen Caroline Mathilde. 
 
 Four other rooms on this floor 
 illustrate the times of Frederik VI. 
 (180S-1839); Christian VIII. (1839- 
 1848); and Frederik VII. (1848- 
 1863). They contain costumes and 
 pictures, but are not of special 
 interest. 
 
 The second floor is entirely taken 
 up by the Biddersal, or great ban¬ 
 queting hall, 150 ft. long, 28 wide, 
 and 19 high. Its present decoration 
 dates from the time of Frederik IV., 
 the chimneys being all that is left 
 of the time of Christian IV. The 
 ceiling was originally flat, adorned 
 with paintings, and the present 
 vaulted ceiling, with its beautiful 
 reliefs, was constructed in 1705 and 
 following years. On the walls are 12 
 large pieces of tapestry, woven in 
 Denmark in the time of Christian V., 
 from the cartoons of the Danish artist 
 Peder Andersen, and representing 
 events in the war between Denmark 
 and Sweden from 1675 to 1679. Ori¬ 
 ginally the floor of this hall, as of 
 most of the rooms of the castle, were 
 laid with tiles, but they have been 
 removed long ago and replaced by 
 boards, because the weight was sup¬ 
 posed to be too great for the walls of 
 the building. The silver candela¬ 
 bra, the silver lions, &c., are gene¬ 
 rally used at the coronations of the 
 Danish kings, and this is also the 
 destination of the 2 chairs which are 
 placed at one end of the hall. The 
 larger, in which the king on that 
 occasion is seated, consists to a great 
 extent of the ivory of the narwal, 
 which material was worth its weight 
 in silver, and it was then conse¬ 
 quently a very expensive production. 
 A hollow space is observed near the 
 top, where a large amethyst, said to 
 be the finest in existence, and which 
 is preserved with the regalia, is 
 placed at coronations. From the 
 F 
 
66 
 
 ROUTE 8.-COPENHAGEN : ROUND TOWER. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 Great Hall small doors lead into the 
 rooms in the towers. One of these 
 contains a collection of Venetian glass, 
 brought home from Italy by King 
 Frederik IV., and still preserved in 
 its original arrangement. The col¬ 
 lection is the richest in existence, 
 particularly in the so-called thread 
 or filigree-glass, vitro di trena. The 
 other turret-room contains a splendid 
 collection of china , both foreign— 
 such as old Dresden and blue Sevres 
 —and old Danish. 
 
 l. The Chamber of the Regalia, 
 of which Mr. Worsaaeis the Keeper, 
 is in the West Tower, and is entered 
 by a door which opens out of the 
 Great Hall. The walls are hung 
 with splendid oriental tapestry used 
 at coronations. The old regalia 
 consist of the crown of Christian IV., 
 a magnificent work of art, chased and 
 embossed, and ornamented by a pro¬ 
 fusion of diamonds, and exquisite 
 enamel work, the work of Diderik 
 Fiuren in Odense; also the state 
 sword of Christian III., and the 
 original copy of the Lex Regia. 
 The new regalia consist of the crown, 
 containing among a multitude of 
 precious stones two rubies and two 
 sapphires of large size ; the orb, and 
 sceptre; the original orders of the 
 Elephant and the Dannebrog; the 
 amethyst (believed to be the largest 
 in existence) which is placed in the 
 canopy of the coronation chair; 
 various gold vessels; and the crown 
 diamonds. 
 
 On the Boulevard occupying the 
 place of the former rampart, outside 
 Rosenborg, is the well-arranged Ob¬ 
 servatory (D. 5), permission to see 
 which must be obtained of the 
 Director. 
 
 Another interesting building 
 erected by Christian IV. is the 
 Church of the Trinity with the 
 famous 
 
 m. Round Tower (D. 5), date 1G42 
 on it, originally intended for an ob¬ 
 
 servatory, and employed for that 
 purpose for about 200 years. (Knock 
 at the door for admission.) It stands 
 in Kjobmagergade, not far from 
 the General Post Office, and is 
 easily reached from Kongens Nytorv 
 by walking down Ostergade to 
 the square Hoibroplads, and then 
 turning sharp to the right. The 
 tower, 115 ft. high, 48 ft. in diameter, I 
 consists of 2 hollow cylinders, be- J 
 tween which a spiral inclined plane | 
 winds from the street to the top, 
 with a sufficiently easy ascent to 
 render it possible for a coach and 
 four to drive up—a feat which was 
 actually performed by the Empress | 
 Catharine of Russia when she 
 visited Copenhagen in 1716 in 
 the company of her husband 
 Peter the Great, who on that occa¬ 
 sion preceded the carriage on horse- j 
 back. The inner cylinder served 
 as a receptacle for the treasures of ! 
 the University library during the 
 English bombardment in 1807. From 
 the platform (open to the public on i 
 Wednesdays and Saturdays from 12 j 
 till 1) there is a very fine panoramic 
 view of the city, though not per¬ 
 haps so good as that from the spire 
 of Our Saviour’s mentioned below. 
 Not far from the top an entrance leads 
 from the spiral-way of the tower to a | 
 large hall constructed over the roof ' 
 of the church, where the library of 
 the University w T as preserved from 
 1657, when this building was finished, j 
 to 1861, when the library was re¬ 
 moved to the present building close 
 to the University itself. 
 
 Opposite the Round Tower is the 
 Regents, a college established by 
 Christian IV., where 100 students 
 have free lodgings; and either of 
 the streets which flank this building 
 leads to the block of buildings con¬ 
 nected with the University, viz., 
 
 n. (1) The New University library 
 
 (D. 5, 6), one of the finest modern 
 buildings in Copenhagen, entirely of 
 stone and iron (1860), and well w orth 
 
Denmark, route 8.—botanic garden ; vor erue kirke. G7 
 
 a visit on account of its tasteful and 
 well-planned arrangements. Open 
 from 11 till 3 daily. It contains 
 above 260,000 volumes, and is parti¬ 
 cularly rich in works on the mathe¬ 
 matical and physical sciences, and 
 amongst the 4000 MSS. are many 
 rare Scandinavian specimens. 
 
 (2) The Zoological Museum is a 
 plain hut handsome red-brick build¬ 
 ing, erected 1869, open Sund. and 
 Wed., 12 till 2. Catalogue, 25 6. 
 It contains a valuable and extensive 
 collection of specimens, and the 
 central hall is fine. 
 
 (3) The Mineralogical Museum 
 offers nothing but its scientific merit 
 (extensive collections of minerals 
 from Greenland, Iceland, Faroes, 
 and Norway). 
 
 (4) The present University (D. 5, 
 6) building, opened in 1836, possesses 
 a fine staircase and hall for special 
 solemnities. The decoration of the 
 latter is not yet complete, but the oak 
 panelling is good, and opposite the 
 throne is a picture by Marstrand, 
 representing the granting of the 
 charter to the University in the 
 Yor Frue Kirke, by Christian I. 
 in 1478. The staircase is decorated 
 with large frescoes by Constantin 
 Hansen, representing mythological 
 subjects. On the side wall, to 
 the 1., the birth of Athene and Apollo 
 and Pythia; on the wall opposite the 
 entrance, the history of Prometheus 
 in 3 pictures; on the side wall to 
 the rt., Apollo and Marsyas, and 
 Athene and Poseidon. Smaller paint¬ 
 ings form a frieze around the 3 walls, 
 and fill the space above this. In 
 the ceiling, Aurora. The 2 marble 
 statues of Athene and Apollo are by 
 Bissen, 1843. In front of the Uni¬ 
 versity are busts in bronze of the 
 naturalist Schouw (d. 1852), and the 
 composer Weyse. There are about 
 40 professors, and nearly 1000 stu¬ 
 dents, and in connection with the 
 University should also be mentioned 
 
 o. The Botanic Garden (open Mon¬ 
 
 day and Thursdays, 8 till 2 and 4 till 
 7), removed from Gammelholm to the 
 level space, formed by filling up 
 the moat opposite the Commune 
 Hospital;—the Surgical Academy, 
 with various collections, physio¬ 
 logical and Chemical Laboratories, 
 the latter situated in Ny Vestergade, 
 and one of the largest and best in 
 Europe. 
 
 The Polytechnic School in St. 
 Pederstrtede, founded at the instiga¬ 
 tion of II. C. Orsted, the celebrated 
 discoverer of electro-magnetism, and 
 for a long time one of its directors. 
 Opposite the University is 
 
 p. Vor Frue Kirke (E. 5), or Our 
 Lady’s Church, a modern structure 
 in the form of a Roman basilica, of 
 very simple exterior, but pleasing 
 proportions in the interior. (Open 
 daily, 9 till 11 a.m. ; fee, 25 6.) It 
 was built in 1829 by the same archi¬ 
 tect, Hansen, who designed the 
 present palace of Christiansborg, and 
 derives its principal interest from 
 the colossal figures of Christ and the 
 12 Apostles, which were executed 
 for it by Thorvalsden, as also ihe 
 kneeling angel serving as a font. 
 In the tympanum of the Doric por¬ 
 tico is the group of St. John preach¬ 
 ing in the Wilderness; in the vesti¬ 
 bule, a frieze representing the Entry 
 into Jerusalem, in the nave the Twelve 
 Apostles, in the chancel the Baptismal 
 Angel, and over the altar Our Lord. 
 The frieze in the apse behind Our 
 Lord’s figure represents the Proces¬ 
 sion to Golgotha. Over the entrances 
 to the confessionals are 2 bassi- 
 relievi representing the Institution 
 of the Sacraments, and over the poor- 
 boxes two others representing Charity 
 and the Guardian Angel. Of the 2 
 bronze statues outside the church, 
 David is by Jerichau and Moses 
 by Bissen. This is the principal 
 church of Copenhagen, and existed 
 in the 12th century, but the 
 original building, which contained 
 an immense number of relics aud 
 f 2 
 
68 route 8.—Copenhagen : moltke’s collection ; Denmark. 
 
 costly objects, and was connected 
 with a great many important his¬ 
 torical events, was destroyed in the 
 great fire in 1728. A new church 
 was built in its stead, of imposing 
 dimensions and great splendour, but 
 it was destroyed by the English 
 bombs in 1807 with the whole neigh¬ 
 bourhood. In the gallery surround¬ 
 ing the interior of the ch., there are 
 some interesting portraits and memo¬ 
 rial tablets. 
 
 p. *Vor Frelsers (E. 7) (Our Sa¬ 
 viour’s) Church in Christiansbavn, 
 commenced in 1682, has a beautiful 
 font with sculptures in alabaster, and 
 a very peculiar spire, completed 1752, 
 with an external spiral staircase ter¬ 
 minating under a ball, which ac¬ 
 commodates a dozen persons. From 
 the top (288 ft.) there is an ex¬ 
 tensive view of the town and the 
 neighbourhood (fee 2 kr. for a party 
 not exceeding 12; verger, opposite 
 the church, No. 67). 
 
 The church of the Holy Ghost, 
 Helliggeist Kirlte (E. 5), has an old, 
 simple, but well-proportioned burial 
 chapel, and Holmens Kirke, restored 
 1873, contains the mausoleums of 
 some of the foremost naval heroes 
 of Denmark—Niels Juel (d. 1697), 
 Tordenskjold (d. 1720), &c. St. 
 Johannes, in the northern suburb, 
 is a pleasing specimen of modern 
 Gothic, in red brick. 
 
 The so-called Marble Church (D. 6) 
 near Amalienborg, was commenced 
 in 1749, but as the outlay was found 
 far to exceed what had been expected 
 the undertaking was abandoned. It 
 was repaired 1882 and 1883. The 
 huge square tower near Hoibroplads 
 is tliat of St. Nicolai, all that now re¬ 
 mains of a large church—the first in 
 which the Eeformation was preached. 
 
 The Cemeteries are all outside the 
 town; the oldest (1666) and most 
 picturesque is the Holmens Kirlte - 
 gaard, that of the navy in Osterbro, 
 with the monument over the fallen 
 
 in the battle with the English fleet 
 under Nelson, April 2, 1801. 
 
 In the Assistens Kyrkgaard is the 
 grave of Hans Christian Andersen, 
 d. Aug. 4. 1875. 
 
 Count Moltke’s Collection of Pic¬ 
 tures (D. 6), mostly of Dutch masters, 
 collected by Count Gottlob Moltke 
 in the middle of the last century, 
 is exhibited in the Moltke’s palace, 
 admission free, on Wednesdays, May 
 1st to 30th November, 12 till 2. 
 Travellers can always obtain ad¬ 
 mission. The best pictures are 
 4 landscapes, by Ruysdael (56- 
 59); an old woman, by Rem¬ 
 brandt (36); a monk, by Rubem 
 (8); a landscape, by Hobbema (60); 
 one by Dubbels 1(102); paintings by 
 Mieris, Metsu, Ostade, Teniers, TFon- 
 vermann, Vandervelde , Pynaker, &c. 
 Catalogue by Prof. Hoyen. 
 
 The Academy of Fine Arts (E. 6)> 
 is in the palace of Charlottenborg on 
 Kongens Nytorv, a building erected 
 in 1672, with the materials of the 
 castle of Kalo, in Jutland, but de¬ 
 riving its name from the residence 
 of Charlotte Amelie, wife of Chris¬ 
 tian V., and devoted to art purposes 
 by Frederik V. in 1754. The art 
 schools established here have exer¬ 
 cised a very considerable influence 
 on the productions of various trades 
 in Denmark. The academy pos¬ 
 sesses a very good collection of 
 casts, and there is an annual exhi¬ 
 bition of pictures, sculptures, &c., 
 in May and June (admission 30 o.). 
 
 q. The present royal residence is 
 Amalienborg (D. 6,7), situated in the 
 northern part of the city, and con¬ 
 sisting of 4 smaller palaces, originally 
 built by rich noblemen, but acquired 
 by the king after the destruction 
 of Christiansborg in 1794. In the 
 middle of the open space enclosed 
 by these palaces, is a bronze statue 
 of Frederik V. Of the 4 palaces, 
 the one by the colonnade is in¬ 
 habited by the king; the one 
 connected with it but nearer the 
 
Denmark. 
 
 6 $ 
 
 ROUTE 8.—charities; theatres. 
 
 Bredgade, where the guard is, is 
 the Foreign Office, the next is in¬ 
 habited by the Queen Dowager, and 
 the one with the clock by the Crown 
 Prince. 
 
 The palace of Frederiksborg 
 ■(E. F. 1, 2), which with its park 
 stands in about the same relation to 
 Copenhagen as Kensington to Lon¬ 
 don, is now used as a military 
 academy. A tramway, which tra¬ 
 verses the whole city, terminates at 
 the gates of the park. Just outside 
 is a bronze statue by Bissen, of 
 Frederik VI. (d. 1839), who used 
 to spend the summer here. He is 
 represented in the act of giving 
 audience. A portion of the Park 
 is walled off and appropriated to 
 the Zoological Gardens. The park 
 of *Sondermarken on the opposite 
 side of the road, containing the 
 reservoir for the water supply of 
 the city, is also a favourite resort of 
 Copenhageners. 
 
 r. Amongst the Charities of Copen¬ 
 hagen may be mentioned the two 
 large hospitals— Frederik’s Hospital 
 <p. 6,7), in Bredgade, connected with 
 the School of Medicine, and the City 
 or Commune Hospital (C. 5), a new 
 and very extensive brick building(850 
 beds), erected at a cost of 150,0001., 
 and well worthy of a visit from 
 professional men. The Vartou Hos¬ 
 pital is a large red-brick building 
 of the 17th century, near the western 
 gate, and the city contains 1 different 
 colonies of workmen’s houses, some¬ 
 what like the Peabody buildings, 
 calculated to afford convenient and 
 salubrious dwellings for the working 
 classes, and yet to return a fair 
 dividend to the owners. The Infant 
 Nurseries and the charities of the 
 different trades are very numerous. 
 
 The Institution for the Blind (B. 6) 
 at Osterbro, just north of the citadel, 
 is a handsome red-brick building 
 elected 1858, with excellent internal 
 arrangements. 
 
 A peculiar quarter, now disap¬ 
 pearing, consists of the so-called 
 Nyboder (new booths), long, low 
 buildings, erected in the 17th cen¬ 
 tury to accommodate the great 
 number of workmen and sailors, 
 who, in those days, were perma¬ 
 nently retained for service in the 
 royal dockyards. 
 
 s. Theatres.—The first in rank is 
 the handsome Boyal or National 
 Theatre (E. 6) in Kongens Nytorv, 
 erected 1874, in place of the former 
 ugly building. It enjoys a consider¬ 
 able state subvention, and has exer¬ 
 cised a very great influence on the 
 intellectual culture of the Danish 
 nation. It is noted for the elegant 
 and graceful way in which the ballet 
 is performed. The best places cost 
 at the door 3 kr. 53 b. The Folke- 
 theatret (D. 5), Casino (D. 6), and 
 others, are only of the second rank; 
 but the locale of the latter is very 
 handsome, and is used for public 
 balls, &c., in the winter. 
 
 The Tivoli (E. 4, 5) (outside the 
 W. gate), near the rly. stat., is a 
 gigantic Cremorne (with theatre, 
 concerts, circus, rutchbahn, pano¬ 
 ramas, fireworks, dancing, electric 
 railway, cafe', and restaurant), but 
 visited by better company, as all 
 classes of society here mix and meet 
 together—a striking feature in Dan¬ 
 ish out-of-door life. The concert is 
 very good, and the establishment is 
 without its equal in any country. 
 A small part of the ground was taken 
 for the Exhibition building erected 
 in 1872, now sometimes used for the 
 exhibition of modern pictures. 
 
 The Lange Linie (C. 7) is a pro¬ 
 menade and drive between the cita¬ 
 del and the harbour. Beyond it 
 there are sea-baths, and nearly 
 opposite the Ire Kroner and Lynetten 
 batteries. A card of admission is 
 required for driving or riding in the 
 Lange Linie. Easily procured. 
 
70 
 
 ROUTE 9. -SEALAND AND ITS ISLES. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 Railways.—Station outside the W. 
 gate (E. 4). 
 
 N. to Elsinore, &c., 4 trains daily, 
 branch to Klampenhorg (separate 
 slation a little N. of the principal 
 station), in summer every hour. 
 W. to Korsor, &c., 4 trains daily. 
 S. to Masnedsund, &c., 3 trains daily. 
 
 Steamers.—From Havnegade op¬ 
 posite the Navigation School. To 
 London, Hull, Newcastle, Leith, 
 weekly, Thursdays and Fridays. To 
 Reikiavilt, via. Leith and Thorshavn, 
 about once a month, from March to 
 October (see Iceland). To Chris¬ 
 tiania, several times a week. To 
 St. Petersburg weekly; to Stettin 
 weekly; to Stralsund via Malmd 
 3 times a week; to Lubech or Kiel 
 (see Rtes. 1 and 2). To Eelsinghorg, 
 Eelsingor, Mahno, Klampenhorg 
 (Bellevue), &c., 2 to 4 times daily. 
 
 t. Environs.—To Frederihsborg Pa¬ 
 lace (see Rte. 10) to Charlottenlund, 
 Klampenhorg, Elsinore, &c. (see 
 Rtes. 9 and 10). Across the Sound, 
 18 m, to Malmd in Sweden (several 
 steamers daily), thence Railway to 
 Lund, Landshrona, and Eelsinghorg 
 (with excursion to the granite rock 
 Kullen), returning by steamer (see 
 Eandbooh for Sweden). 
 
 ROUTE 9. 
 
 SEALAND AND THE ADJOINING 
 SMALLER ISLANDS. 
 
 a. Environs of Copenhagen. 
 
 The railways on the island of 
 Sealand now enable the traveller to 
 visit most of the places claiming his 
 attention in excursions from Copen¬ 
 hagen, and he may select any one or 
 more of the places mentioned below, 
 and combine them in any order he 
 pleases. 
 
 The immediate neighbourhood of 
 Copenhagen is flat and sparingly 
 timbered, and the island of Amager 
 (not, as it is often written in Eng¬ 
 lish, Amak) offers absolutely nothing 
 of interest. The inhabitants are de¬ 
 scendants of Dutch colonists who 
 settled here in 1516, and have to a 
 great extent preserved their national 
 costumes. The whole island is an 
 immense nursery garden, supplying 
 Copenhagen with vegetables. But 
 on Sealand itself, to the north of 
 Copenhagen, at a distance of about 
 5 to 10 miles, there are extensive 
 tracts of woodland, stretching, 
 through a considerable area, partly 
 along the sea, partly surrounding 
 numerous small inland lakes, and in 
 this direction there are a great many 
 pretty excursions. In spite of its 
 high latitude, the summer in Copen¬ 
 hagen is often oppressively hot, and 
 the townspeople go N. to seek sum¬ 
 mer quarters—often very modest and 
 at the same time very expensive 
 ones—for some weeks at least in 
 the neighbourhood. The favourite 
 place of resort is the 
 
 Strandvei or road along the sea¬ 
 shore, as well as the villages to the 
 north of the town. The thousands 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 9. -KLAMPENBORG. 
 
 71 
 
 of large and small houses and pretty 
 gardens, inhabited during the sum¬ 
 mer months, which are scattered 
 over the country, give it a very 
 lively and pretty appearance. 
 
 The North Sealand Railway , a. 
 Copenhagen to Klampenborg. Trains 
 every hour—Sundays and holidays 
 every half hour from the station, 
 a little N. of the Great Ely. ter¬ 
 minus W. of the city. This rly. 
 alfords an easy and quick com¬ 
 munication with these places; hut 
 in order to enjoy it properly it is 
 preferable (though certainly more 
 expensive) to take a carriage and 
 drive by the Strandvei or by the 
 high road to Lyngby to those parts 
 of the neighbourhood wliich can 
 thus be visited. The price for a 
 two-horse carriage varies from 10 
 to 20 kr. a day, besides a dollar for 
 the driver and his expenses of food. 
 
 About 5 miles from Copenhagen 
 on the Strandvei is 
 
 4 m. Charlottenlund Stat. (Horse 
 Tramway), a park — or rather a 
 mixture of wood and garden — 
 covering about 80 acres, and sur¬ 
 rounding a country house belong¬ 
 ing to the Crown, and generally 
 tenanted by some member of the 
 Eoyal Family. On Sunday after¬ 
 noons and feast-days tens of thou¬ 
 sands fill its walks and glades; dan¬ 
 cing and music is going on till late 
 at night, and when the last train 
 and the last omnibus or char-a-banc 
 have returned to town there are still 
 many hundreds left, who prefer to 
 walk home with song and merri¬ 
 ment in the cool of a light Danish 
 summer night. Close to Charlot- 
 tenlund are capital sea-baths at 
 an establishment called Oresund. 
 Through Charlottenlund the car¬ 
 riage road, continued in a magnifi¬ 
 cent lime avenue, leads to 
 
 Bernstorff, a manor-house built 
 a century ago. by Count A. P. 
 Bemstortf, an influential man in 
 Denmark, now in possession of the 
 Crown, and used by the Eoyal 
 
 Family as a summer residence. Fur¬ 
 ther inland, 8 m. is Lyngby Stat., 
 with the small palace and beautiful 
 park of Sorgenfri (beautiful roses), 
 residence of the late Queen Dowager, 
 from whence the extensive woods of 
 Feederiksdal, surrounding the lake 
 of Fureso, may be reached by road 
 or in a boat on the lake of Lyngby. 
 Horsholm (see below) is easily reached 
 by way of Lyngby. 
 
 Continuing the journey by the 
 Strandvei for about 3 miles beyond 
 Charlottenlund we come to the Deer- 
 park (Dyrehave), the gem of the 
 environs of Copenhagen. Both this 
 and Charlottenlund may be reached 
 by frequent trains which start from 
 a separate little station beyond the 
 main station at Copenhagen. From 
 the railway, as w r ell as from the 
 Strandvei, the Deer-park is entered 
 at the south-east corner. Just out¬ 
 side, with a good view of the Sound 
 and close to the landing-place of the 
 steamers, is a very good restaurant 
 called Bellevue. Of the adjoining 
 corner of the park a considerable 
 space is taken up by a sea-bathing 
 establishment called 
 
 Klampenborg Stat., a good Bes- 
 taurant, Restaurant Constantia, and 
 Hotel, concerts, fetes, cottages, and 
 lodging-houses. From the grounds 
 a good view of the sea. The sea- 
 baths are accessible to the general 
 public. Many Swedes and Germans 
 come here for the summer. The 
 Deer-park itself is an enclosure of 
 about 4200 acres, divided in two parts 
 by a small river, wliich supplies the 
 necessary water-power for a large 
 paper-mill at the outfall in the 
 Sound, and for 2 manufactories in 
 the park itself. The southern part 
 of the park, about 2800 acres with 
 fine timber, especially magnificent 
 beeches, is a Eoyal preserve, and 
 vast herds of stags, red deer and 
 fallow deer may be seen grazing on 
 its glades or lying down under the 
 trees. The large white stags are 
 
72 ROUTE 9 . -EREMITAGEN ; 
 
 particularly beautiful. In the mid- 1 
 die of an open space stands 
 
 Eremitagen (the Hermitage), a 
 small Royal hunting-pavilion. Some 
 of the rooms (very plain inside) are 
 accessible to the public and can be 
 used for pic-nics. The view across 
 the Sound to the coast of Sweden is 
 very fine from the Hermitage, as 
 well as from many other points in 
 the park. On the 5th June a great 
 national festivity is generally held 
 here in honour of the Danish con¬ 
 stitution. At a little distance are 
 three large stones with inscriptions 
 erected, one in commemoration of the 
 first meeting here of students from 
 all the Scandinavian universities; 
 the two others commemorate visits 
 to Copenhagen by a great number of 
 Schleswigers in 1861, and again in 
 1865. 
 
 In the southern part of the en¬ 
 closure is an open space called 
 Dyrehavsbaliken, where a very ani¬ 
 mated fair is held every year in the 
 months of June and July. Roads 
 and paths cross the park in every 
 direction. One road runs parallel 
 with the southern fence by Dyre- 
 havsbakken, and leads from the gate 
 at Klampenborg to that of Fortunen, 
 where just outride the park a fine 
 distant view of Copenhagen and the 
 sea presents itself. The continuation 
 of the road leads through the wood, 
 and the above-mentioned avenue to 
 Bernstorff. which is seen in the fore¬ 
 ground and further on to Charlotten- 
 lund. The rt. road leads through 
 open fields to Lyngby (see above). 
 
 The narrow slip of land between 
 the park and the sea is studded 
 with villas of every shade of size or 
 elegance, amongst which we note 
 /S 'hodsborg, where Frederik VII. used 
 to spend a few months every sum¬ 
 mer (Skodsborg Hotel). Farther 
 north beyond the Deer-park are 
 the villages of Vedbxlc (here is 
 the park of Enrum open to the 
 public) and Eungsted. The coast 
 is here in many places high, and 
 
 hveen ; horsholm. Denmark. 
 
 affords splendid views of the sea, 
 for instance, from a barrow called 
 “ Lokeshbi ” to the rt. of the road 
 just north of the Deerpark, and from 
 “ Ewaldhbi ’’ near the Inn at Rung- 
 sted, where the poet Ewald spent his 
 last years. The island of 
 
 Hvesn, where the astronomer, 
 Tycho Brahe resided, and where the 
 foundations of his castle and observa¬ 
 tory are still seen, is only 7 miles 
 distant; to the south of it, on the 
 more distant coast of Sweden, ap¬ 
 pears the town of Landskrona; towards 
 the north Kronborg on the Danish 
 coast is distinctly seen. Two miles 
 inland from Rungsted is 
 
 Horsholm, where Christian IV. 
 erected a magnificent palace in 
 the years 1733-1744. It was called 
 the Versailles of the north, and cer¬ 
 tainly surpassed most royal resi¬ 
 dences in splendour. Here Caro¬ 
 line Mathilde spent her last sum¬ 
 mers in Denmark. Frederik VI., 
 who was born here, but disliked 
 the palace, suffered it to fall into 
 decay, and in 1810 its demolition 
 was ordered. Where the palace 
 stood is now a small plain church. 
 But of the surrounding grounds a 
 portion at least remains. From here 
 there is, by road, 10 miles through 
 woods to Lyngby, and about 6 to 
 the nearest station on the North 
 Sealand Railway. 
 
73 
 
 Denmark. route 10.— -elsixore ; frederiksborg, etc. 
 
 ROUTE 10. 
 
 ELSINORE (HELSIXGOR), FREDERIKS¬ 
 BORG, AND NORTH SEALAND. 
 
 Elsinore may be reached conve¬ 
 niently, either by land, by way of 
 the North Sealand Railway, or by 
 direct steamer. 
 
 North Sealand Ely. 36 m. Trains 
 in 2 hrs. --- • 
 
 Steamers. —Twice daily, in 2J hrs. 
 to Elsinore; 3 hrs. to Helsingborg, 
 from the pier at the corner of the 
 Havne Gade, and Charlottenborg. 
 The first morning boat reaches El¬ 
 sinore at 10-30. 
 
 As the Steamer keeps close to the 
 Danish coast, which lias an easterly 
 aspect, it is better to take the early 
 morning boat (21 hrs.), and return 
 by train (2 lirs.). Elsinore and 
 Kronborg may be seen in a day 
 easily : and one may even see Kron¬ 
 borg in the morning, and reacli 
 Frederiksborg by an afternoon train 
 in time to see the castle, and reach 
 Copenhagen by the last train in the 
 evening. But it is better either to 
 sleep at Elsinore, and next day take 
 the 8’50 a.m. train to Fredensborg, 
 see the park and Nordmandsdalen, 
 and pass on to Frederiksborg (Hil- 
 lerbd) by train at 12 noon, or by 
 carriage (an hour’s drive on a pretty 
 road, offering to the rt. good views 
 of Esrom Lake); or to drive in the 
 afternoon to Fredensborg, return 
 from thence to Copenhagen by rail, 
 and make Frederiksborg the subject 
 of a separate excursion. If more 
 time is at disposal, drive from Elsi¬ 
 nore by the old upper road to HeUe- 
 bxl;, thence to Hornbelc, ordering the 
 driver to stop below Odinshdi, whilst 
 
 you ascend to enjoy the view ; and 
 via Haureholm to Esrom, and round 
 the lake by the road which runs 
 close to its shores to Fredensborg or 
 Frederiksborg. Thence, if desired, 
 to Frederiksvserlc; up the fjord to 
 Jeegerspriis, and by the rly. from 
 Frederikssund; or better, if not 
 already visited, via Roeskilde to 
 Copenhagen. 
 
 The coast of the Sound north of 
 Copenhagen as far as Rungsted is 
 excessively pretty from the sea when 
 illuminated by the morning sun; it 
 appears almost one immense garden 
 with houses of every description 
 dotted about; and as the ships 
 passing the Sound to and from the 
 Baltic almost all keep near to the 
 Danish coast, partly on account of 
 the prevalence of westerly winds, 
 partly because the sandbanks are 
 fewer — this circumstance contri¬ 
 butes very much to heighten the 
 charms of the journey. The steamer 
 stops at several points on the coast, 
 such as Bellevue (Klampenborg), 
 Yedbsek, Rungsted, Humleba3k, and, 
 after passing Hveen, Tycho Brahe’s 
 island, enters the harbour of Elsi¬ 
 nore about 2j hrs. after leaving 
 Copenhagen. Generally the boat 
 proceeds after a short interval to 
 Helsingborg in Sweden and back. 
 
 Elsinore, Danish Helsingbr (H. 
 Oresund, H. du Nord, good restau¬ 
 rant at rly. stat.), is a very old 
 town of 9000 Inhab., with a Gothic 
 Townhall, rebuilt in 1855. The 
 place formerly derived its wealth 
 almost entirely from the Sound dues 
 which were paid here by all vessels 
 going to or coming from the Baltic. 
 The payment of this impost, abo¬ 
 lished in 1857, necessitated the 
 stoppage of the vessels, which there¬ 
 fore often took their supplies here. 
 Before 1660, when Skanko still be¬ 
 longed to Denmark, the main com¬ 
 munication between the provinces 
 on both sides of the Sound was by 
 way of Helsingor, and the opposite 
 
74 
 
 ROUTE 10 . —HAMLET’S GRAVE. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 Helsingborg, tlie width of the Sound 
 being here not more than 2j m. 
 Partly to facilitate the enforcement 
 of the Sound dues, partly to pre¬ 
 vent the passage of a hostile fleet, 
 a fortified castle was at a very early 
 time constructed on each coast of 
 the Sound. The one at Helsing¬ 
 borg has disappeared save an old 
 square tower, prominently seen from 
 the Danish coast; but the castle of 
 Helsingor still exists, the well-known 
 Rronborg, of no importance now as 
 a fortress. 
 
 Tim present edifice, a quadrangle, 
 with 4 towers, was built 1574-1585, 
 in the Renaissance style of the 
 period, by Frederik II., and is, 
 whether it be seen from the sea or 
 from the shore, a very picturesque 
 object. The interior, chapel and 
 square tower, can be viewed on ap¬ 
 plication. Fee, GO o. each person. 
 The pictures are very bad. 
 
 From the windows a lovely sea- 
 view. Caroline Mathilde inhabited 
 a small apartment here in 1772, 
 before she was taken to Hanover 
 (see Introd. § 10), and her rooms are 
 still shown. One of the turrets 
 serves as a lighthouse. The chapel 
 has been restored, and is worth 
 seeing. From the Square Tower, 
 the view is very good. Extensive 
 works, slips, and a dry-dock were 
 erected, 18S2, for the building and 
 construction of iron ships and 
 machinery. 
 
 To the north of the town within a 
 short walk is Marienlyst, originally 
 a Royal marine residence, now be¬ 
 longing to a much-frequented sea¬ 
 bathing establishment. The grounds 
 in front of the house are accessible 
 to the public at large, as well as 
 the restaurant, which is tolerably 
 good ; but the building—containing 
 balconies with flue view, reading- 
 rooms, &c., as well as the table- 
 d'hote at 4 o’clock, and the terrace 
 behind the house, are accessible only 
 for subscribers, or for travellers on 
 payment of a fee of 70 d. for the day. 
 
 On the terrace behind is shown 
 what is called the tjrave of Hamlet. 
 a circle of trees round a fragment 
 of a column. English travellers— 
 naively believing, on the authority 
 of Shakespeare, that Hamlet really 
 had something to do with Kron- 
 borg, although in reality he lived 
 in quite a different part of the 
 country, and a thousand years be¬ 
 fore Kronborg was built—used so 
 constantly to ask the guides for 
 Hamlet’s grave, that these found 
 themselves under the necessity of 
 inventing one, and some bright in¬ 
 dividual hit upon this spot, which 
 has ever since retained the name. 
 The tourists, however, were not 
 yet satisfied; as soon as a grave 
 was found for Hamlet it became 
 necessary to discover Ophelia’s brook, 
 and this, too, was successfully ac¬ 
 complished. It is shown north of 
 Marienlyst garden, near a delightful 
 path which runs at the foot of the 
 high coast parallel with the shore to 
 Hellebsek. The spot is pretty, and 
 so far well chosen, but there are but 
 very few inches of water in this 
 modern Ophelia’s brook—a circum¬ 
 stance which unavoidably r suggests 
 the profane thought that the lady 
 must have had some difficulty in 
 drowning herself here. 
 
 In the same direction, but close to 
 the shore, is the Bath Hotel, where 
 apartments can be had with a fine 
 sea-view, but rather dear. Lodgings 
 are to be found in many houses in 
 or about Helsingor, but they are 
 generally taken early in the season. 
 Many foreigners come hither, mostly 
 Germans; the bathing is better than 
 in the Baltic, and the neighbour¬ 
 hood so pretty that a pleasant time 
 may be spent here. 
 
 The environs of Helsingor are 
 well timbered, but the beauty of 
 the place is the view of the sea, 
 which, in summer, is deep blue, 
 backed by the charmingly wooded 
 Swedish coast, with the headland of 
 l Kullcn, a remarkable isolated mass 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 10. -HELLEBiEK; GURRE. 75 
 
 of granite 900 ft. high, in the dis¬ 
 tance, and enlivened by hundreds of 
 vessels constantly passing through 
 this narrow channel to or from the 
 Baltic. In this respect Helsingor 
 is unique; nowhere in the world 
 are so many ships seen constantly 
 together in movement, and to the 
 lover of the sea and of ships few 
 things can be more amusing than 
 cruising about in a boat at the en¬ 
 trance of the Sound. 
 
 A very pretty drive of about 3 
 miles through woods and past beau¬ 
 tiful little lakes, leads to 
 
 Hellebxk, north of Helsingor. 
 Here a considerable manufacture of 
 fire-arms and various iron goods was 
 established a century ago and exists 
 in part still. In the summer the 
 place is filled by people from Copen¬ 
 hagen, who for a few weeks occupy 
 the very modest apartments that 
 can be found in the houses of the 
 artizans or the huts of the fisher¬ 
 men, in order to enjoy the fresh air 
 and the bathing. The woods of 
 Hellebsek, which form a park to 
 the manor-house of that name, are 
 laid out in pretty w r alks, and the 
 timber is splendid. 
 
 Another mile along the shore 
 leads to Odinshoi, the highest point 
 on the coast, from which a charming 
 view of the entrance to the Sound 
 and of Kronborg. Carriages for a 
 drive to Hellebxk and Odinshoi, oc¬ 
 cupying half a day, may be had at 
 the hotels at Elsinore and at the 
 station, price about 6 to S kr. (1 horse) 
 and pour boire. Pedestrians will 
 prefer the path along the coast start¬ 
 ing from Marienlyst. A more exten¬ 
 sive excursion may be made along 
 the coast through Hellebsek and 
 Hornbxlc, a fishing-village, near a 
 very characteristic plantation for 
 subduing the drifting sand, to Nak- 
 kehoved, with 2 lighthouses. From 
 the upper lighthouse is a very in¬ 
 teresting sea-view, and in the pretty 
 little garden—doubly pleasing in 
 this desolate spot—travellers can 
 
 pic-nic, but provisions must be 
 brought. Further on is 
 
 Gilleleie, on the northern extre¬ 
 mity of Sealand, with a very good 
 inn. The return road should be 
 laid through Soborg, a village near 
 the scanty ruins of the once famous 
 castle of Soborg, in a lake which is 
 now laid dry. Many state prisoners 
 were kept in durance vile here in 
 the early middle ages. The road 
 next reaches Esrom, once a powerful 
 and wealthy monastery, but of which 
 only small fragments remain. It is 
 at the north end of the lake of 
 Esrom, with beautifully-wooded 
 shores. A canal connects it with the 
 sea, and serves for the export of 
 firewood from the adjoining forests. 
 The route back to Elsinore from 
 Esrom should be laid either north 
 of the lake of Gurre, through the 
 woods of Horserod, &c.; or else, if 
 it is intended to visit the ruin of 
 Gurre (see below), west and south of 
 the lake, and through the village. 
 Excursionists who are on their way 
 back to Copenhagen from Elsinore, 
 may proceed from Cfurre to Fredens- 
 borg, and send tiie carriage back to 
 Elsinore from there. A carriage for 
 this excursion, which fully occupies 
 a day, costs about 35 kr. 
 
 The return from Elsinore to Copen¬ 
 hagen may be made by rail in about 
 H to 2 hrs., but even if Frederiks- 
 borg is visited separately, it is far 
 better to go by road from Elsinore 
 to Fredensborg by way of Gurre, 
 and only take the train there. 
 Gurre, about 4 m. from Elsinore, 
 was in the early middle ages a 
 favourite residence of several Danish 
 kings, particularly Valdemar II., 
 whose paramour Tovelille, of whom 
 the old ballads have much to say, 
 was kept hidden here. The legend 
 says that Valdemar used to exclaim 
 that God might keep his heaven, if 
 he (the king) only might retain 
 Gurre; and consequently his un¬ 
 happy soul is still lingering there, 
 
76 
 
 route 10. —fredensborg; frederiksbobg. Denmark. 
 
 and often of a night he is seen hunt¬ 
 ing, with a mysterious and awful 
 troop of followers, and a pack of fiery 
 ■dogs. The castle, situated in an 
 idyllic spot near the lake and vil¬ 
 lage of Gurre, fell into disuse iu 
 the 15th cent., and the stones were 
 mostly used in the construction of 
 Frederiksborg. The remains are 
 now enclosed, and the key can be 
 had in a cottage close by. Feather 
 on, near Voldemarslund, the resi¬ 
 dence of the principal officer of the 
 extensive woods in this district, 
 which all belong to the Crown, is 
 another fine view of the lake. The 
 road turns sharp to the 1., passes 
 by Marianelund — a modest Inn, 
 favoured by pedestrians in summer - , 
 through another wood, to Danstrup- 
 Jieyn, and past the Rostgaard stone 
 across fields to Fredensborg, 10 m. 
 from Elsinore. 
 
 The Rostgaard stone commemo¬ 
 rates a bold attempt made by Hans 
 Rostgaard and two others to regain 
 possession by a coup de main of the 
 fortress of Kronborg, which in the 
 year 1658 had fallen into the hands 
 of the Swedes. The plan was 
 discovered, and the leaders had 
 to fiy for their lives. Rostgaard, in 
 order to deceive his pursuers, killed 
 his horse at the side of a pond here 
 where the stone stands and threw 
 off his clothes, which made them 
 believe that he had been killed and 
 ■drowned in the lake, and thus he 
 escaped. He was owner of a manor 
 called Krogerup (beautiful park, 
 open to the public), a few miles off 
 near Humlebselt, a fishing-village on 
 the coast, where the steamers to and 
 from Elsinore stop. 
 
 Fredensborg ( Inns: Store Kro 
 Prindsen; Hansen’s restaurant, close 
 to rly. stat., good) owes its origin 
 to the royal summer residence of 
 this name which was built here at 
 the beginning of last century, and 
 which still is used as such. It was 
 finished in 1720, and named so be¬ 
 
 cause the treaty of peace (Danish 
 Fred) which put an end to the 
 “eleven years' war” between Den¬ 
 mark and Sweden was concluded 
 here. The Palace possesses but 
 little internal beauty besides the 
 entrance hall , which is very fine, and 
 a few good old ceilings with stucco- 
 reliefs in the style of Louis XIV. 
 (fee, 4 kr. for a party not exceeding 
 12). But the park abounds in mag¬ 
 nificent avenues, charming flower¬ 
 beds, terraces, sculptures, &c., and 
 its beauty is much enhanced by the 
 lake of Esrom and its wooded shores. 
 Boats can be had in the so-called 
 Skipperhuus. One of the chief fea¬ 
 tures of the park is the “ Normands- 
 dalen,” containing a number of 
 figures representing Norwegian pea¬ 
 sants in national costumes. 
 
 From Fredensborg, a drive through 
 the woods of about 5 miles, with 
 views over Esrom lake to the right, 
 leads to 
 
 Frederiksborg. The name of the 
 little town of 2700 inhabitants is 
 really Hillerod, but the name of the 
 castle, which forms the one great 
 point of attraction, is very generally 
 used for the town too. (Leiders- 
 dorf H., on the market-place, very 
 modest; good restaurant at the rail¬ 
 way station.) 
 
 Admission to castle and church 
 daily, 9 - 30 till 12, and 2 - 30 till 5— 
 
 1 to 3 persons, 1 kr.; 12 persons, 
 
 2 kr. 
 
 . The original Castle of Frederiks¬ 
 borg was built by Frederik II. in, 
 1562, and a part of the present 
 building dates from his time, but the 
 main portion was taken down and 
 replaced by the present palace in 
 the years 1602-1608 by Christian IV. 
 On the 17th of December, 1859, a 
 terrific fire destroyed almost the 
 whole of the interior, and a great 
 mass of valuable historical relics 
 were lost on that occasion, but the 
 walls remained standing, and, thanks 
 to the numerous descriptions and 
 drawings in existence, it was pos- 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 10 . —FREDERIKSBORG CASTLE. 
 
 77 
 
 sible to restore the whole exterior 
 of the castle, as well as the interior 
 of the church in which 6 Danish 
 kings have been crowned, to its ori¬ 
 ginal condition, at a cost of about 
 40,000?. The castle is situated in 
 a lake, on 3 islands, and is one of 
 the noblest and most beautiful pa¬ 
 laces in Europe. “ In the depths of 
 the beech-woods is a great lake, in 
 the centre of which, on 3 islands, 
 united by bridges, rises the palace, 
 most beautiful in its time-honoured 
 hues of red brick and grey stone, 
 with high roofs, richly sculptured 
 windows, and wondrous towers and 
 spires. Each view of the castle 
 ■seems more picturesque than the 
 last. It is a dream of architectural 
 beauty, to which the great expanse 
 of transparent waters and the deep 
 verdure of the surrounding woods 
 adds a mysterious charm.”— A. J. 
 C. Hare. On the island nearest the 
 town are 2 peculiar round towers 
 erected by Frederik II. The en¬ 
 trance to the second island is orna¬ 
 mented with a huge gate-tower, and 
 beyond this the castle, situated on 
 the third island, presents itself. It 
 consists of 3 wings, with a closed 
 gallery towards the middle court, 
 ornamented with rich and well-exe¬ 
 cuted sculptures. The interior had 
 already, at the time of the fire in 
 1859, sustained so many changes 
 that scarcely anything remained in 
 its original state, save the Banquet¬ 
 ing Hall and the Church. The 
 former ( Rosen ) has been restored. 
 The Knight’s Hall, which was also 
 nearly destroyed, has, however, been 
 splendidly restored; the carved ceil¬ 
 ing and tapestry are fine works of 
 art. In a number of rooms which 
 have heen refitted a collection of 
 antique furniture, painting, &c., is 
 being formed. The Tycho Brahe 
 room is interesting, and the deco¬ 
 ration very effective. 
 
 The Church , though much da¬ 
 maged by the fire of 1859, was par¬ 
 tially saved, and was rebuilt, re¬ 
 
 decorated, and re-consecrated 1864. 
 It is very well worthy of a visit; the 
 altar and pulpit, of ebony and mas¬ 
 sive silver, as well as the font, were 
 saved from the fire. The royal 
 closet, or so-called “ bedekammer,” 
 ornamented with numerous pictures 
 and carvings, the latter executed 
 by Christian IY. himself, was en¬ 
 tirely destroyed, and the fac-simile 
 now executed is interesting as a 
 study of the Renaissance. It has- 
 been decorated with 24 very beauti¬ 
 ful pictures of New Testament sub¬ 
 jects by Professor Carl Blocl:, full of 
 dignity and tender feeling, and well 
 worthy of minute study. In the 
 chapel are the coats-of-arms of the 
 Knights of the Elephant, and cf 
 those who have or have had the 
 Grand Cross of the Dannebrog. 
 
 The castle, as it now stands, is 
 a monument not only of its builder 
 Christian IY., but of the national 
 feeling of the Danish people at large, 
 by whose exertions the restoration 
 after the fire alone was rendered 
 possible. A peculiarity connected 
 with the castle is the great assem¬ 
 blage of rooks from the neighbouring- 
 extensive forest, which takes place 
 every afternoon about 6 o’clock. 
 The roofs are black with the birds, 
 which, after a quarter of an hour's 
 palaver, again separate. A bridge 
 leads from the middle island through 
 the “ mintgate” to the high road to 
 Fredensborg. All round the castle- 
 lake are shrubberies and woods with 
 walks. Here stands Badstuen, a 
 very pretty little building erected 
 by Frederik II., and beautifully re¬ 
 stored by Frederik YII. A splendid 
 view of the castle is obtained from 
 JxgerbahJcen, a few minutes’ walk 
 from the garden. Another fine view 
 is had from the Bokhesteen, which 
 forms part of a gigantic dolmen 
 south of the town. But the finest 
 view in the neighbourhood, and one 
 of the best in Denmark, is from the 
 Shandsebahke, a walk of three- 
 quarters of an hour. The view 
 
78 
 
 ROUTE 10. -FRKDERIKSV^RK. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 comprises the whole neighbourhood, 
 the lake of Esrom, and the Sound in 
 the distance. A walk through the 
 terraced garden, at the highest point 
 of which the view over the parterres, 
 with the lake and rear of the palace 
 forming the background, is exceed¬ 
 ingly beautiful and unique, should 
 not be neglected. 
 
 To the north of Frederiksborg, 
 beyond the enclosures properly be¬ 
 longing to it, is a wilder tract 
 of forest called Gribskov , which 
 stretches along the lake of Esrom, 
 a distance of 8 miles, enclosing nu¬ 
 merous picturesque little tarns, as 
 well as hilly parts with views, &c. 
 
 From Frederiksborg the return to 
 Copenhagen direct will be best ac¬ 
 complished by railway, but the excur¬ 
 sion may be extended to Frederiks- 
 vxrk and Jxgerspriis , and the return 
 may be made by steamer on the 
 Issefjord to lloeskilde, and train from 
 there to Copenhagen. 
 
 Frederiksvaerk (Heilmann’s Inn ) is 
 about 12 miles N.W. from Frederiks¬ 
 borg. The road is not particularly 
 interesting, as the country is rather 
 treeless. The little town of 900 in¬ 
 habitants is situated on the outlet of 
 the large lake Arresbe into the Isse¬ 
 fjord, and consists mainly of the 
 houses of artizans who work at the 
 large cutlery and iron works which 
 were established here at the begin¬ 
 ning of last century, and which, after 
 having been the property of the State 
 for some time, are now in private 
 hands. The neighbourhood is very 
 beautifully wooded, and from several 
 points, particularly the Maglehbi, 
 there are extensive and varied 
 views. 
 
 Archaeologists may make an inte¬ 
 resting excursion of about 4 miles to 
 the Kjbhken-modding at Solager, 
 which were visited by the Interna¬ 
 tional Archaeological Congress, held 
 in Copenhagen in 1869. The lake of 
 Arresbe was formerly connected with 
 the Kattegat, but this ancient outlet 
 
 has been entirely stopped, and the 
 country far and wide desolated by 
 drifting sands. These have now, how¬ 
 ever, been subdued by plantations, 
 which are worthy of a visit. The 
 drive across the so-called Asserbo 
 Overdrev is very characteristic; there 
 is a melancholy monotony in the land¬ 
 scape, contrasting forcibly with the 
 smiling beauty of Frederiksvaerk. 
 Here was in olden time the strong 
 and famous castle of Asserbo, but 
 only a ruin is now left. The prin¬ 
 cipal plantation is near Tidsvilde, 
 close to the sea, and here is also, at 
 the very top of the cliff, 
 
 St. Helen’s Well, of which the 
 water was, until quite lately, sup¬ 
 posed to be in possession of marvel¬ 
 lous healing powers, and particularly 
 on the night of St. John the Bap¬ 
 tist’s day; thousands often came 
 with all manner of diseases to drink 
 healing water from the well. The 
 legend is that the saint had been 
 killed by ungodly men in Sweden, 
 and her body thrown into the sea; 
 but a large stone floated it to the 
 surface and carried it across to the 
 Danish coast. Pious persons wished 
 to bury the saintly remains in the 
 church, but came only to this place, 
 where the earth voluntarily opened 
 to receive the body. 
 
 Forty years ago this whole neigh¬ 
 bourhood wa3 still a sandy waste, 
 exceedingly interesting to the natu¬ 
 ralist ; now the land is almost all 
 taken into cultivation. The drive 
 to Frederiksborg from Tidsvilde goes 
 through a district exceedingly rich 
 in barrows and dolmens. 
 
 Frederiksvaerk is, as already stated, 
 situated on a branch of the Issefjord, 
 and on this a steamer 2 to 3 times 
 a week affords easy communication 
 with the town of lloeskilde. Opposite 
 Frederiksvaerk the coast is densely 
 wooded for many miles, and the 
 steamer—after first coasting the pen¬ 
 insula of Halsnxs, where Solager is 
 situated—turns to the left, and glides 
 along the forest which belongs to 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 10. -J2EGERSPRIIS. 
 
 79 
 
 the manor of Jxgerspriis, in order 
 to land, at 
 
 Frederikssund ('Hotel Issefjord), a 
 small borough of 1300 inhabitants, 
 on the east roast of the fjord, which 
 is here very narrow and traversed 
 by a boat-bridge. In order to visit 
 Jsegerspriis (for which carriages, 
 4 kr.—for the whole day, 10 kr.— 
 may be had from Mr. Frblund in 
 Frederikssund) the bridge must be 
 crossed, and the walk or drive con¬ 
 tinued for about 3 miles, partly 
 through wood. From the wooded 
 hills to the left of the road there is 
 a good view. (Good Inn near the 
 manor-house.) 
 
 The estate of Jaegerspriis, which 
 was originally called Abrahamstrup, 
 belonged to the Crown as early as 
 the year 1300, but afterwards it 
 changed hands frequently. Several 
 of its owners were members of the 
 royal family; the last of them was 
 Frederik VII. The house is pecu¬ 
 liar and old-fashioned, but not parti¬ 
 cularly imposing; it is beautifully 
 decorated inside, and the rooms occu¬ 
 pied by Frederik VII., which con¬ 
 tain a great many objects used by 
 him, his drawings, &c„ are still pre¬ 
 served intact, and can be seen. The 
 park is open to the public, and is 
 very interesting. One of the royal 
 owners of Jsegerspriis, the “ He¬ 
 reditary Prince ” Frederik VII., 
 adorned it with numerous sculp¬ 
 tures, many from the designs of 
 Wiedewelt, an excellent Danish 
 sculptor of the 18th century. Most 
 of them represent great men in 
 the history of Denmark, and some 
 are portraits. There is also a splen¬ 
 did “jsettestue,” or large sepulchre, 
 from the stone age in the park, 
 which is opened. North of the park 
 is the Nordskov, an extensive wood 
 containing the largest oaks in Den¬ 
 mark. The King’s oak, the largest 
 in Denmark, is now reduced to a 
 hollow trunk, with green branches 
 issuing from the inside as well as 
 
 from the outside of the 3 pieces 
 which still remain. Its circumfer¬ 
 ence is 42 ft., at a height 4 ft. from 
 the ground. The stork oak has in 
 the same height a circumference of 
 36 ft., which in a height of 24 ft. is 
 only diminished to 32 ft. 
 
 The neighbourhood of Frederiks¬ 
 sund is interesting in an archaeologi- 
 cal point of view, being very rich 
 in dolmens and other monuments. 
 Five miles north of Frederikssund, 
 halfway between this and Frederiks- 
 vrerk, is Havelse, with celebrated 
 kitchen middens; and about 8 miles 
 south, on the road to Koeskilde, is a 
 remarkably large and fine jxttestue 
 near Udleire. A couple of miles 
 further the railroad crosses a river 
 called Vxre, where an enormous ob¬ 
 long tumulus marks the burial-place 
 of King Frode, of whom the old 
 legends, as related by Saxo Gram¬ 
 maticus, are full. Here he was 
 buried, and on the top were the 
 monumental stones with a Eunic 
 inscription in his honour, which pro¬ 
 cured its author the crown of Den¬ 
 mark, it having been resolved that 
 whosoever wrote the best poem in 
 honour of this popular king should 
 be his successor. Two centuries ago 
 the stones were taken away to repair 
 the bridge over the river, but all 
 search for those with the inscription 
 has been in vain. The parish uses 
 the tumulus for a gravel-pit—hap¬ 
 pily a very unusual mark of disre¬ 
 spect for historical and antiquarian 
 monuments in Denmark. Archaeolo¬ 
 gists would most likely prefer to 
 drive from Frederiksvserk to Frede¬ 
 rikssund, taking Havelse by the 
 way (about 11 miles), and to con¬ 
 tinue the journey to Eoeskilde in 
 the same manner (15 miles). 
 
 By steamer Koeskilde is reached 
 in 1! hour from Frederikssund, and 
 thence Copenhagen is reached in 
 about 1 hour by rail. A visit to 
 Koeskilde, and further excursions 
 from there, may perfectly well be 
 combined with the excursions we 
 
80 ROUTE 11. —COPENHAGEN 
 
 have been describing, but as most 
 travellers would visit Roeskilde from 
 Copenhagen direct, and few would 
 make the round by Frederiksvserk, we 
 shall treat of Roeskilde separately. 
 
 EOUTE 11. 
 
 COPENHAGEN TO ROESKILDE, RTNGSTED 
 AND SORO. 
 
 These towns are stations on the 
 rly. from Korsor to Copenhagen 
 (Rte. 6). Trains daily, in 2 hours. 
 
 Roeskilde, with the Central and 
 Western parts of Sealand. 
 
 Roeskilde (17 m. by rly. from Co¬ 
 penhagen, 6 trains daily in 1 hr., 
 Buffet at station ; Inns : Prindsen 
 (best), Frederiksstad), situated at a 
 branch of the Issefjord, became in the 
 10th century the residence of King 
 Harald Blaatand, father of King Sven, 
 and grandfather of Canute the Great, 
 and it remained one of the royal 
 residences till the 15th century. It 
 was also one of the earliest episcopal 
 sees in Denmark, and was—until 
 Copenhagen became the permanent 
 residence—the most important city 
 in Denmark, and probably the most 
 populous, excepting perhaps the 
 town of Schleswig. But when it 
 ceased to be a residence, and when 
 the Reformation had shorn the 
 church of its splendour, Roeskilde 
 fell into decay, and has now, in 
 spite of recent progress, only 5200 
 
 to roeskilde, etc. Denmark 
 
 inhabitants. Of the 11 churches 
 and 6 conventual institutions which 
 once existed, only the Cathedral and 
 Vor Frue Kirke are still in use. 
 The name is popularly derived from 
 a King Hroe, and supposed to mean 
 “Hroe’s well;’’ but the king in 
 question is a personage of doubtful 
 historical authenticity. The loca¬ 
 lity, however, is exceedingly rich in 
 springs, of which one, the Magle- 
 kilde, in an octagonal building at 
 the base of the cathedral hill, yields 
 350 gallons per minute. 
 
 The Cathedral of Roeskilde is the 
 finest and largest ecclesiastical build¬ 
 ing in Denmark, and the bishop of 
 the diocese of Sealand (who resides 
 in Copenhagen) is now the primate 
 of the Danish Church. But ori¬ 
 ginally it was not so. The arch¬ 
 bishop of Denmark resided in Lund 
 in Skaane, which province, since 
 1658, belongs to Sweden, and the 
 cathedral of Lund was till then the 
 foremost in rank of Danish cathe¬ 
 drals. 
 
 The Cathedral is shown by the 
 sacristan (graver), who lives nearly 
 opposite the W. door. 2 kr. 1 to- 
 3 persons. 
 
 Besides its architectural merits,, 
 the Roeskilde cathedral deserves a 
 visit as the resting-place of most of 
 the sovereigns of Denmark. 
 
 The earliest church here was of 
 wood, and built by Harald Blaatand’ 
 in 975, but the present edifice of 
 red brick was commenced after the 
 middle of the 12th century, and was 
 completed as we now see it towards 
 the latter part of the 13th. It suf¬ 
 fered much by fire, particularly in 
 1283 and in 1443, and important 
 alterations were the consequence. 
 It was after the first fire that pointed 
 arches were introduced instead of 
 round ones, which, however, still re¬ 
 main in many places. The towers 
 date also from that time; but the 
 spires were set up by Christian IV., 
 who also added the singularly inap¬ 
 propriate Elizabethan west door. 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 11.—ROESKILDE CATHEDRAL, t 
 
 81 
 
 The numerous chapels which from 
 time to time have been erected round 
 the church have also contributed to 
 mar its original appearance. For 
 years a thoroughly scientific and 
 careful restoration lias been going 
 on, and numerous minor mutilations 
 are being remedied, ancient orna¬ 
 ments again brought to light, &c. 
 
 The building is 276 ft. long and 
 S6 ft. broad. The dimensions are 
 not considerable, but the proportions 
 are good. The church cousists of a 
 choir, nave, and 2 aisles; these have 
 a clerestory and are continued round 
 the choir. The transepts do not 
 project beyond the aisles. Being 
 built on an eminence, the spires are 
 seen far and wide, aud altogether it 
 is one of the finest buildings of its 
 kind in the north. 
 
 The west door leads directly into 
 the nave, which is 82 ft. high, and 
 has 5 bays beyond the transept. 
 The width of the nave decreases 
 .slightly towards the choir, which has 
 a very pleasing effect when seen 
 from the door, or better from a 
 wooden bridge over the door con¬ 
 necting the two side galleries. On 
 the piers are suspended several old 
 paintings which are supposed to 
 have been altar-pieces. The pulpit 
 dates from Christian IV.; the organ 
 was built in 1555, and is of unusual 
 size and excellency. There are 
 many tombstones in the floor mark- 
 iag the graves of famous persons, 
 though the oldest have almost all 
 disappeared. The font (date 1601) 
 stands at present at the foot of the 
 chancel steps, the old baptistery 
 having been taken down in 1772; 
 but it is intended to convert one of 
 the chapels into a baptistery, where 
 the font will then find a place. The 
 fine brass railing enclosing the choir 
 was a gift of Frederik IV. 
 
 The chon- is divided into 2 parts 
 by a railing. In the part called 
 leannikechoret, or the canon’s choir, 
 is the altar which was bought by 
 Frederik II. for the chapel at Frede- 
 
 [ Denmark .] 
 
 riksborg, but when this palace was 
 taken down by Christian IV. in 1602, 
 he gave this altar to the cathedral 
 of Roeskilde. It is ornamented with 
 very good carvings representing 
 scenes in our Saviour’s life. The 
 work is of great artistic merit, and 
 is supposed to belong to the begin¬ 
 ning of the 16th century, but the 
 artist is unknown. The carved stalls, 
 21 on either side, were placed there 
 in 1420, and are of fine workman¬ 
 ship. 
 
 Behind the altar is the sarco¬ 
 phagus of Queen Margaret, who 
 united the three northern kingdoms. 
 She died in 1412, and was first 
 buried in Soro, but next year the 
 Bishop of Roeskilde took possession 
 of the body by main force and carried 
 it to the cathedral. The queen is 
 represented in life-size on the lid of 
 the sarcophagus, which was placed 
 here by her nephew and successor, 
 Erik of Pomerania, 1423, and is 
 ornamented with small statues of 
 alabaster in canopied niches. These 
 have been restored. 
 
 The second part of the choir is 
 further raised, and contained for¬ 
 merly the high altar of the cathe¬ 
 dral and 2 others, which remained 
 there with other ancient church fur¬ 
 niture till the close of the 17tli cen¬ 
 tury, when this part of the cathedral 
 was transformed into a royal burial- 
 chapel. At last all these relics were 
 sold in 1806 as rubbish—a proceed¬ 
 ing which caused just indignation 
 amongst the educated public, and 
 gave rise to special steps being taken 
 by the government for the preserva¬ 
 tion of national antiquities. We 
 may here observe that the cathedral 
 had been deprived of its treasures 
 before the Reformation, and but 
 very few objects connected with its 
 earlier history are now in existence. 
 Several are preserved in the Museum 
 for Northern Antiquities in Copen¬ 
 hagen, as, for instance, the oldest 
 seal of the cathedral, the skull of 
 St. Lucius, its patron saint, &c. 
 
 G 
 
82 
 
 ROUTE 11.-ROESKILDE CATHEDRAL. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 The high choir contains the fine 
 marble sarcophagi of Frederik IV., 
 Christian V., and their queens, and 
 the tomb of King Waldemar, 1363 ; 
 and in the vaults underneath are the 
 remains of several of the royal chil¬ 
 dren. 
 
 In 1-420 the floor was raised in 
 this part of the choir, arid many old 
 graves were thereby disturbed; the 
 bones of some of their occupants 
 were, however, immured in the 
 pillars, more especially those of King 
 Harold (a.d. 985), of Queen Mar¬ 
 garet Fredkulla (a.d. 1130), of Svend 
 Fstridson (a.d. 1076) and Bishop 
 Vilhelm (a.d. 1076). Above the 
 lower row of, arches is a modern 
 fresco painting representing Christ 
 and the 12 Apostles, by Constantin 
 Hansen. In the aisle of the choir 
 is a collection of portraits of famous 
 men connected with the church, and 
 of all the bishops of Sealand since 
 the Reformation. 
 
 From the S. transept the chapter¬ 
 house is entered which was founded 
 by a certain Helgi (a.d. 1128) who 
 is buried here, as indicated by a 
 monumental stone with inscription. 
 
 Further on, adjoining the S. aisle, 
 is the sepulchral chapel of Frederilc 
 V. in Romanesque style with a cu¬ 
 pola, handsome in itself, but utterly 
 out of harmony with the church. 
 Here are the sarcophagi of Frederik 
 V. and his queen, and all subsequent 
 kings and queens of Denmark, in¬ 
 cluding that of Frederik VII. in 
 polished oak, with a wreath of oak- 
 Jcaves in solid gold ; that of Frede¬ 
 rik V. is in marble, by Wiedeivelt. 
 
 Then follows the chapel of the 
 Three Holy Kings , with the monu¬ 
 ments of Christian III. and Fre¬ 
 derik II. The chapel itself is very 
 fine, a centre column supporting a 
 noble vaulted ceiling, and the walls 
 being decorated with very interest¬ 
 ing fresco-paintings contemporary 
 with the first erection of the chapel, 
 now happily rescued from under 
 innumerable layers of churchwar¬ 
 
 den’s whitewash. They have refer¬ 
 ence partly to the 3 holy kings, 
 partly to the destination of the 
 chapel to serve as a royal burial- 
 place. The monument of Christian 
 III., by Corn. Floris of Antwerp, is 
 of the highest artistic merit. 
 
 In the crypt underneath lies 
 Christian I., who built the chapel in 
 1459-1464 as a burial-chapel for his 
 family, and richly endowed it. When 
 his coffin wms opened some time ago 
 the body was measured, and it was 
 found that although he had not been 
 of the prodigious height ascribed to 
 him, he still stood 6 Danish ft. in 
 his shoes. The upper floor of this 
 chapel forms a hall where the dio¬ 
 cesan convocation meets. Near the 
 west door are several minor chapels, 
 and also along the western portion 
 of the north aisle, amongst which 
 the chapels of St. Brigitta and St. 
 Laurentius contain interesting and 
 very old frescoes. 
 
 We come next to the largest of all 
 the chapels, that of Christian IV. 
 (d. 1648), containing the sarco¬ 
 phagus of this king, covered with 
 black velvet, and richly ornamented 
 with silver. His sword rests upon 
 it. Around are placed some fine 
 sarcophagi of chiselled copper, con¬ 
 taining the remains of the queen of 
 Christian IV., Anna Caterina ; Fre¬ 
 derik III. and his queen, Sophia 
 Amalia. The walls are decorated 
 with frescoes by modern Danish 
 artists— Fddelien,Mar strand, H illcer, 
 and Kornerup. One of these repre¬ 
 sents the king in the naval battle 
 at Femern, 1644, where he was 
 wounded, and another represents him 
 as a young man presiding as a judge 
 in a celebrated cause, where he dis¬ 
 covered a fraud by examining the 
 paper on which a certain document 
 was written, and finding that the 
 manufacturer’s mark indicated a 
 later year than the pretended date 
 of the document. Others are por¬ 
 traits of famous men of his time. 
 The chapel is separated from the 
 
Denmark. route 11 . —excursions from roeskilde. 
 
 83 
 
 aisle by a magnificent screen of 
 hammered iron, made by Caspar 
 Fincke in 1690. In the north aisle 
 is also the tombstone of the great 
 Danish chronicler Saxo Gramma¬ 
 ticus (a.d. 1207), without an inscrip¬ 
 tion. On the north side of the 
 chancel is the porch of Uluf Mor- 
 tensen, built in the 15th century, 
 with a very richly ornamented front 
 and the image of Pope Lucius, the 
 patron saint of the church, painted 
 on copper. 
 
 In the south tower is the clock, 
 with figures that strike the hours; 
 and in the northern tower is the 
 largest of the bells, which bears the 
 date of 1511, and has a circum¬ 
 ference of more than 18 ft. 
 
 From the gallery of the choir of 
 the cathedral there is a passage over 
 an archway, ascribed to and named 
 after Bishop Absalon (1201), which 
 formerly led to the episcopal palace; 
 this latter, however, no longer ex¬ 
 ists, and instead of it is a so-called 
 Eoyal palace—a very unpretending 
 edifice, serving various public pur¬ 
 poses. 
 
 For Frue Kirlce offers nothing of 
 special interest; it was formerly in 
 the town, but stands now outside it, 
 and the parish is a rural one; several 
 of the lanes near it have still the 
 name of streets. 
 
 The church of St. Ibs, now used 
 as a warehouse, erected in the 12th 
 century, has very interesting and 
 very old frescoes. 
 
 The tower of St. Laurentii church 
 forms now part of the Town-hall , and 
 is a good specimen of the red-brick 
 Gothic. 
 
 Close outside Eoeskilde is a very 
 large lunatic asylum belonging to 
 the city of Copenhagen, called Bul- 
 strup, which is worthy of the atten¬ 
 tion of persons taking interest in 
 such institutions. A little farther 
 on is a small pretty wood Boserup 
 (carriage 4 kr.), near which the 
 scanty ruins of Hebbe castle, and a 
 kitchen-midden. 
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM ROESKILDE. 
 
 We have already observed that 
 Frederikssund, Jaegerspriis, and 
 Frederiksvserk may quite easily be 
 visited from Eoeskilde. Lovers of 
 art may pay a visit to the Church of 
 Skibby (the first place where the 
 steamer to Frederiksvserk stops) con¬ 
 taining beautiful specimens of 12th- 
 century frescoes; similar ones exist 
 in many old Danish churches. 
 
 Another shorter excursion is to 
 Lethrabory (carriage 6 to 8 kr.), the 
 seat of Count Holstein-Lethraborg, 
 with a beautiful park and interest¬ 
 ing stone monuments of great anti¬ 
 quity. The valley of Hertha (Her- 
 thadal) was formerly, but errone¬ 
 ously, thought to have been the 
 centre of a peculiar worship of the 
 goddess Hertha. The ancient Leire, 
 the residence of the Danish kings, 
 or at least the kings of Sealand in 
 the time of the Sagas, is close by, 
 but there is nothing now to be seen. 
 The village of Orn may easily be 
 included in the excursion either 
 going or coming, and here a very 
 fine Jxttestue may be seen. The 
 key to be had from the farmer on 
 whose ground it is. Through a 
 passage 22 ft. long, formed by 
 enormous stone slabs, one enters the 
 sepulchral chamber, 22 ft. long, 5J 
 to 6 ft. high, and 8 ft. wide. When 
 opened in 1832 it was found to 
 contain a number of skeletons and 
 urns. Candles or magnesium wire 
 should be brought. 
 
 A railway is open from Eoeskilde 
 via Holbselt to Kallvndbory on the 
 Great Belt, from which place for¬ 
 merly the mail packets for Jutland 
 started. Now they start from Korsbr. 
 
 Holbselt Stat. (Postgaarden H., 
 Issefjord H.) 18 m. from Eoeskilde 
 and also situated on a branch of the 
 Issefjord, offers in itself nothing ot 
 interest; but 
 
 Kallundhorg Stat. (Thrane’s Hotel) 
 30 m. from Holbrnk, has a most 
 remarkable old Church dedicated to 
 g 2 
 
84 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 11 .— RING STED ; SORO. 
 
 Our Lady; it was built in 1170 in 
 the shape of a Greek cross, with an 
 octagonal tower at the end of each 
 arm, and a fifth, higher than the 
 others, over the middle of the cross 
 supported by strong piers inside. 
 The latter fell down in 1827, and 
 the church was upon the whole in 
 a bad condition; but it has been 
 thoroughly repaired, and the central 
 tower rebuilt. An interesting ex¬ 
 cursion may be made to the penin¬ 
 sula of Befsnass with numerous 
 dolmens. 
 
 About midway between Holbsek 
 and Kallundborg, at a village called 
 Faurbo, the highroad is intersected 
 by another running north and south. 
 From this point a very interesting 
 excursion may be made in either 
 direction. 
 
 About 5 m. N. of Faurbo is the 
 ancient castle of Draxholm, the seat 
 of Baron Adler, formerly a Boyal 
 possession. Here Bothwell, first the 
 lover, afterwards the husband of 
 Mary Queen of Scots, spent his last 
 years, in prison, and was buried, 
 1578, in the neighbouring church of 
 Faareveile. 
 
 2 m. north of Dragsholm, on a 
 narrow isthmus, is Veirlioi, with 
 a magnificent view, the finest in 
 Denmark, extending as far as 40 m. 
 over a beautifully varied landscape 
 of sea and land, corn-fields and 
 woods. 5 m. south of Faurbo is 
 Skarridso, a lake surrounded by 
 lovely woods, one of the prettiest 
 landscapes in Sealand. From here 
 it is only 18 m. to Soro. 
 
 A visit to Roeskilde may be ex¬ 
 tended by rail to Bingsted and Soro, 
 both on the Copenhagen-Ivorsor 
 line. 
 
 Ringsted Stat. (Postgaarden; Re¬ 
 staurant at the station) is now but 
 a small town of 2000 Inliab., in a 
 rather bare neighbourhood, but in 
 the Middle Ages it was an impor¬ 
 tant place, and the noble Roman¬ 
 esque St. Bendts Church, with cen- 
 
 | tral tower and apse at E. end, was 
 the burial-place of the Danish kings 
 of the Valdemarian period, and their 
 successors, 1182-1375. The graves 
 were opened in 1855 in the presence 
 of Frederik VII., but most of them 
 had been disturbed before. The 
 monuments are likewise destroyed, 
 only the brass slab with faces of 
 marble behind the high altar, cover¬ 
 ing the grave of Erik Menved (1319) 
 and his queen, remains. The church 
 suffered much by a fire in 1806, and 
 lost its spire, but is now being tho¬ 
 roughly restored; it is contemporary 
 wdth the cathedral of Roeskilde, 
 having been consecrated in 1081, but 
 has preserved its original character 
 better. It is one of the largest brick 
 churches in Denmark with round 
 arches. For admission apply to 
 Jensen opposite the Post-Office. 
 
 Soro Stat. (Hotel Soro) is a com¬ 
 paratively modem little place of 
 1500 Inliab., owing its origin to a 
 monastery of the Cistercians, which 
 was founded in 1161, but secularised 
 at the time of the Reformation and 
 transformed, 1586, by Frederik IT. 
 into a public school. The great 
 Danish writer Ludvig Holberg, who 
 died childless (1754), left his large 
 property to this institution, which is 
 one of the richest in Denmark, 
 having an income of about 10,000Z. 
 a yeari The old buildings of the 
 school were unfortunately destroyed 
 by fire in 1813, whereby its exceed¬ 
 ingly valuable library was lost; and 
 a new one was built, which is 
 situated in a fine park close to the 
 edge of a lake, and it and the 
 natural history collection are worth 
 a visit. It is seen to great advan¬ 
 tage from the railway on coming from 
 Korsor. 
 
 But the most interesting building 
 here is the old Church of the monas¬ 
 tery, which serves as parish church. 
 It is 220 ft. long, 68 wide, 52 high, 
 and contains some fine painted glass ; 
 the nave has pointed arches, but the 
 
Denmark. 
 
 85 
 
 ROUTE 12. -MOENj EALSTER, ETC. 
 
 original round arches are preserved 
 in the aisles and the chancel, which 
 is square. Numerous celebrated per¬ 
 sons have been buried here, amongst 
 whom Bishop Absalon (1201). His 
 grave was opened in 1827, when the 
 skeleton was found with a crozier at 
 the side, holding a silver chalice in 
 the folded hands. The oldest tomb¬ 
 stone is, however, that of Bishop 
 Krak (1300). Holberg's sarcophagus 
 in marble, by Wiedewelt, stands in 
 one of the vaults. 
 
 From Soro pretty drives may be 
 made in every direction; an interest¬ 
 ing excursion is to Bjernede , a village 
 5 m. distant (carriage 1) dollar), with 
 a most remarkable round Church, 
 built, according to the inscription 
 which is still preserved, by Ebbe 
 Skjalmson, of an illustrious noble 
 family, who died in 1150. The in¬ 
 terior diameter is only 34 ft., and 
 of this small space a considerable 
 part is taken up by 4 columns with 
 bases of granite of 12 ft. circum¬ 
 ference each and 24 ft. high, support¬ 
 ing the roof. A porch and a chan¬ 
 cel were added afterwards, and the 
 roof was probably originally conical; 
 but enough remains of the old struc¬ 
 ture to render this one of the most 
 interesting relics of ancient Christian 
 architecture in Denmark. Besides 
 this there are only 0 round churches 
 in Denmark, of which 4 are at Born¬ 
 holm. There is an old font of 
 granite, and a remarkable reliquary. 
 On the return journey, Pedersborg 
 Church, with a carved altar-piece, 
 date about 1500, may be visited. 
 
 The line is continued to 
 
 Slagelse and 
 
 Korsiir, v. p. 44, Rte. G. 
 
 ROUTE 12. 
 
 MOEN, FALSTER, LOLLAND, AND THE 
 SOUTH OF SEAI.AXD. 
 
 In describing the route to Copen¬ 
 hagen via Liibeck we mentioned the 
 cliffs of Moen , and this little island 
 is in reality one of the loveliest spots 
 in Denmark. Steamers for the 
 southern islands touching at Koster, 
 where the ferry is from Moen to Sea- 
 land, start several times a week from 
 Copenhagen early in the morning. 
 In Koster a carriage may be pro¬ 
 cured, or better ordered beforehand, 
 for the whole distance, to Liselund 
 (near the klint or cliff'), or one may 
 go by the open omnibus which meets 
 the steamer to Stege, the principal 
 place on the island, and take a car¬ 
 riage thence. Some of the steamers 
 from Copenhagen or from S. Sealand 
 Rly. terminus at Masnedsund go 
 direct to 
 
 Stege (Baden’s Hotel, carnages to 
 the klint). This is a very old town of 
 2200 Inhab., but only an old gate¬ 
 way nowremains from itsearlierdays. 
 A couple of miles outof Stege the road 
 to the klint passes through a village 
 called Kjeldbymagle with a remark¬ 
 able old altar. Farther on the road 
 crosses a marshy track, which reaches 
 right across the island from north to 
 south, and which originally was an 
 inlet from the. sea, separating the 
 eastern part of the island Bidie Moen 
 from the rest. The village of Bor re, 
 with its handsome church, was then 
 a thriving seaport. The hills which 
 form the cliff now present themselves. 
 After a drive of about 9 m. from Stege 
 Liselund is reached, a large farm¬ 
 house where travellers are accommo¬ 
 dated, and from which the cliff may 
 be visited comm odiously on foot. 
 
 The hills of Hoie Moen consist of 
 
86 
 
 ROUTE 12 . —falster: lolland. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 chalk with layers of flint, forming 
 towards the sea an abrupt cliff, often 
 presenting wild and grotesque forms. 
 The superior beauty of this cliff over 
 so many others of the same formation 
 consists in its rich vegetation, the top 
 being mostly covered by magnificent 
 beechwcods. In the morning early it 
 is best seen from the sea, in the after¬ 
 noon the sea presents a magnificent 
 deep blue, which contrasts strongly 
 witli white cliffs and the foliage of 
 the forest. The cliff - is private pro¬ 
 perty, but it is open to the public, 
 and the owners have done all to 
 render it accessible by walks, rail¬ 
 ings, seats, &c. Special guide-books 
 may be had on the spot. Geologists 
 will find a rich harvest of fossils. 
 The principal points are the Taler, 
 the Pronningestol, which formerly 
 was the highest point (403 ft.), and 
 commanded a fine view, but in 1868 
 a large portion of the cliff fell down 
 into the sea, and theMaglevandsfaldet, 
 a cleft through which lies an easy 
 descent to the sea-shore ; here is also 
 a refreshment pavilion. Farther in¬ 
 land excellent views may be had from 
 two hills, the highest on the island, 
 namely Kongsbjerget and Aborre- 
 bjerget. The forest contains several 
 tarns of unusual depth. The whole 
 district of Hoie Moen covers but a 
 small area, a few square miles, but 
 it is one of the most beautiful spots 
 in the N. 
 
 The western part of Moen is rich 
 in dolmens and other antiquarian 
 remains, but offers too little of in¬ 
 terest to tempt the ordinary traveller, 
 and the same may be said of the 
 neighbouring islands of 
 
 Falster and Lolland , which are 
 accessible by the same steamers 
 which afford communication between 
 Copenhagen and Moen. Lolland is 
 accounted the most fertile and valu¬ 
 able part of Denmark, and is scat¬ 
 tered over with the seats of the 
 nobility, of which some are very 
 handsome. The principal town in 
 Lolland is Maribo, Stat. (steamer to 
 
 Bandholm, thence train to the Hotel), 
 with a very fine Church, originally 
 part of a famous convent and monas¬ 
 tery according to the order of fire 
 Birgittines. The cloisters, the Lady 
 Chapel, and many other relics of the 
 time before the Reformation, are of 
 interest. In the neighbouring lake 
 is “ Worsaaes tie,” where a great so- 
 called coast-find was made in 1858, 
 The seats of Solicit, Engestlofte, 
 Knutlienborg, with fine buildings 
 and parks, are close to Maribo. 
 
 A drive of 6 miles, or by train, 
 towards the east leads to Saxlcjobing 
 Stat. (Inn on the Market-place), a 
 little town of 1400 Inhab., near 
 which is the manor of Hardenberg, 
 one of the finest in Denmark, the 
 property of Count Reventlow Har¬ 
 denberg. 6 miles to the S. of Maribo 
 is the small towm of Bodby Stat. 
 (Inn in the Ostergade), on the south 
 coast. The view is line from the 
 tower (120 ft.) of the Church, which 
 contains a remarkable chalice of the 
 15th cent. Close to the town is the 
 manor of Cliristianssxde, with some 
 of the finest oak forests in Denmark. 
 
 Maribo is the centre of the railway 
 system of Lolland, and from it lines 
 branch off W. to Nakskov, S. to 
 Rodby, N. to Bandholm, and E. to 
 Saxkjdbing and Nykjobing. 
 
 The return from Moen to Copen¬ 
 hagen may be effected through the 
 southern part of Sealand, namely 
 from Koster (see above) to Kallehave, 
 on the coast of Sealand by ferry, and 
 thence by carriage (to be had in the 
 ferry-house) to Frxsto and thence to 
 Kjoge, or to Vordingborg, the southern 
 terminus of the South Sealand Rail¬ 
 way. 
 
 The highroad from Kallehave via 
 Praesto and Kjoge to Taastrup station 
 on the railway from Roeskildc to 
 Copenhagen is a very fatiguing day’s 
 journey, involving more than 50 m. 
 drive. 
 
 Prxsto (Inn: Petersens, H. Dan¬ 
 mark ; omnibus twice daily to 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 12. -VORDINGBORG. 
 
 87 
 
 Lundbj Ely. Stat.) is a small town 
 of no interest, but close outside is 
 the manor of Nysd, the seat of Baron 
 Stampe, with beautiful gardens. 
 The principal part of the building 
 was erected in 1672. Thorvaldsen 
 used to spend his last summers here, 
 and the apartments which he occu¬ 
 pied, as well as his atelier, are still 
 preserved unaltered and are shown 
 to travellers. 
 
 Travellers coming from Lolland 
 cross the Sound Guldborgsund, which 
 divides this island from Falster, 
 either at Guldborg (Inn) or at 
 NyTijobing (Inn), and proceed by 
 rail to Orehoved, from which a 
 steamer keeps up a regular commu¬ 
 nication with Mamedsund, the next 
 station to which is 
 
 Vordingborg (Eedlefsens Hotel; 
 Hotel Valdemar), a very old town 
 of 2000 Inhab., dating from the 
 12th century. It was at a great 
 Danehof or national assembly 
 held here that King Valdemar II., 
 in 1241, published the “ Jydslie 
 Lov ,” the oldest Danish statute 
 law. King Valdemar I. built a 
 fortified castle, and Danish kings 
 often resided here before Copen¬ 
 hagen was made a permanent resi¬ 
 dence. Of the old castle only a part 
 of the walls, and a solitary tower 
 79 ft. called the Goosetower, because a 
 golden goose did duty as a weather¬ 
 cock, remain now. The key can be 
 had in the town next door to the 
 chemist’s shop. The view is ex¬ 
 ceedingly pretty. The slopes round 
 the ruin abound in sweetbriars, here 
 called roses of King Valdemar. 
 
 The South Sealand Eailway takes 
 a more westerly course than the road, 
 and passes the town of 
 
 Nxstved, 16 m. from Vording¬ 
 borg (Hotel Viinhuset Dania). The 
 2 churches contain some old carving, 
 and near St. Morten’s Church is a 
 very interesting old timber house 
 with carved figures, &c., a kind of 
 which there are now but very few 
 
 specimens in Denmark. The old 
 town-hall, now used for other pur¬ 
 poses, is not without interest. About 
 1 m. distant is 
 
 Herlufsholm, a public school, 
 founded by Herluf Trolle in 1590, 
 and the only one in Denmark at 
 all comparable to the old public 
 schools of England. It was origi¬ 
 nally a monastery established in this 
 place in 1261; at the time of the 
 Reformation it was confiscated b y 
 the Crown, but afterwards ceded to 
 Herluf Trolle in exchange for Hille- 
 rbdsholm, where Frederilcsborg was 
 afterwards built. Herluf Trolle was 
 childless, and fell as an admiral of 
 the fleet in a battle against the 
 Swedes, but had previously destined 
 the whole property to the foundation 
 of a new school, and his widow 
 Birgitte Gjb faithfully carried out 
 his intentions. The buildings, 
 church, &c., are shown by the ser¬ 
 vants. The church has lofty pointed 
 arches, there is a good carved pul¬ 
 pit and altar. The sarcophagi of 
 Herluf Trolle and his wife, in black 
 marble with alabaster ornaments, are 
 very handsome, and close to them is 
 a beautiful altar with their figures 
 in alabaster. 
 
 About 5 m. south of Nrestved is the 
 castle of Gauno, the seat of Baron 
 Eeedtz Thott, a very extensive old 
 building, originally a convent. The 
 castle contains a very large collection 
 of pictures, of which the historical 
 portraits form the most interesting 
 part. The castle of Holsteinborg and 
 the manors of Basnses and Borreby, 
 with beautiful parks, and particu¬ 
 larly the latter, with very interesting 
 buildings, may also be conveniently 
 visited from Nsestved, as they are 
 close to the high road between 
 Nsestved and Skjelskjor (Inn), a 
 small town of 1700 Inhab. on the 
 S.W. coast of Sealand, which may 
 serve as a resting - point. From 
 Skjelskjor to Slagelse Stat. on the 
 West Sealand Railway is only 10 m. 
 
88 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 12. -EONNEDE ; 
 
 Another pretty drive of about 16 
 m. brings the traveller from Naestved 
 to Sorii on the West Sealand Rail¬ 
 way (see above), past Herhifsliohn 
 (mentioned above), and Nxsbyholm, 
 an old manor-house in a veiy fine 
 situation surrounded by woods and 
 lakes. 
 
 But the shortest and quickest way 
 of returning to Copenhagen is by 
 the railway to Kjoge, and thence by 
 Roeskilde. 
 
 The traveller who may like to ex¬ 
 plore the south-east of Sealand may 
 do so most conveniently by stopping 
 a. couple of days at the Inn at Haslev 
 Stat. or at Bonnede , an old and very 
 good Inn about 18 m. from Vording- 
 borg, and reached by omnibus twice 
 daily from Haslev. From here the 
 following points may easily be visited, 
 being all within a few miles distance: 
 Bregentved, the seat of Count Moltke, 
 with a beautiful park (open to the 
 public) and the best hothouses in 
 Denmark; Gisselfeld, built in 1547, 
 formerly the seat of the families of 
 Oxe, Lykke, and others, now a con¬ 
 vent for noble ladies, and fine gar¬ 
 dens ; Overdrevsbahhen, the highest 
 point in Sealand (390 ft.), with a 
 magnificent panorama from the top. 
 Nyso (see above), near Prsestb, may 
 also be visited from Rbnnede, though 
 rather out of the way. 
 
 From Rbnnede or Haslev a very 
 good excursion, occupying 2 days, 
 may be made through Stevnsherred. 
 A glance on the map will show that 
 a line from Priesto to Kjoge forms the 
 basis of a peninsula, which is known 
 as Stevnsherred, and is reckoned the 
 most fertile and richest part of Sea- 
 land. The limestone rock which 
 underlies the whole of Denmark here 
 comes to light in two places, partly 
 in a cliff on the eastern shore called 
 Stevns Klint, which we mentioned 
 above in describing the route to 
 Copenhagen via Liibeck, and partly 
 in the hill of Faxo, an ancient coral 
 reef full of remarkable fossils. This 
 
 STORE HEDDINGE. 
 
 is only 3 m. distant from Rbnnede, 
 about 7 m. from Haslev. The chalk is 
 very extensively quarried,and a short 
 line of railway brings it to a little- 
 harbour about 3 m. distant, where a 
 new town, Faxe Strand Stat. (good 
 Inn), is rapidly rising into existence. 
 About 5 m. further to the east is 
 the so-called convent of Vemmetofte, a 
 Gothic mansion built 1735, with an 
 extensive estate adjoining, now form¬ 
 ing an institution for unmarried 
 ladies of the nobility, of the same 
 kind as Gisselfeld. The park is ojien 
 to the public. 
 
 From Vemmetofte an additional 
 10 m. brings us to Store lleddinge 
 Stat. (good Inn ) with a very remark¬ 
 able old Church, originally octagonal, 
 now a good deal altered. Geologists 
 will not fail to visit the above-men¬ 
 tioned cliff, Stevns Klint, which is 
 only a couple of miles distant, and 
 where the succession of the strata 
 composing the Cretaceous formation 
 in Denmark is easily and well ob¬ 
 served. From Store Heddinge the 
 journey should be continued to 
 Kjoge, by way of 
 
 Gjorslev, one of the oldest noble 
 mansions now existing in Denmark, 
 built about 1400, of very peculiar 
 exterior, and with many very in¬ 
 teresting details. The vaulted halls 
 have a height of about 24 ft., and 
 the entrance-hall, with a single cen¬ 
 tral pillar, is very striking. The 
 library contains, amongst other trea¬ 
 sures, a very extensive collection of 
 maps. The garden, which is open 
 to the public, is very extensive (80 
 acres). Nearer Kjbge, about 5 m. to 
 the south of that town, is Valid Castle, 
 now like Gisselfeld and Vemmetofte, 
 an institution for unmarried daugh¬ 
 ters of the nobility, but originally an 
 ancient manor. The principal part 
 of the building was built in 1581 by 
 Mette Rosenkrands, and is amongst 
 the finest in Denmark. The institu¬ 
 tion is very rich, and its estates com¬ 
 prise thousands of acres. The inte- 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 13. -BORNHOLM. 
 
 89 
 
 rior can be seen on application to 
 tlie gatekeeper, or in the office of the 
 estate near the inn. The garden 
 and park are always open to visitors. 
 
 Kjoge Stat. (Inn : Prindsen) is an 
 old hut insignificant place; the 
 church dates from 1326. In the 17th 
 century a manufacture of tapestry 
 was established here, and several of 
 the productions of this establishment 
 are still in existence, but it soon lan¬ 
 guished and ceased altogether. The 
 Baltic here forms a large and deep 
 bay: Ejdgebugt, where two famous 
 naval battles have been fought; in 
 one, 1st of July, 1677, Admiral Niels 
 Juel defeated the Swedish fleet; the 
 other, which took place on the 4th 
 of October, 1710, also between the 
 Danes and Swedes, is chiefly remem¬ 
 bered on account of the heroism of 
 Iver Hvidtfelt, commander of the 
 Danish line-of-battle ship Danne- 
 brog ; the ship caught fire, but for 
 fear of setting fire to other Danish 
 ships or causing confusion in the 
 fleet, the commander refused to seek 
 assistance, and preferred to run the 
 risk of being blown up. This even¬ 
 tually took place, and he and his 
 crew, about 700 men, perished. Near 
 Kjoge a skirmish took place in 1307 
 between an English corps d’armee 
 and the militia of the neighbouring 
 part of Sealand, in which the latter 
 was dispersed. 
 
 The country between Kjoge, Boes- 
 kilcle, and Copenhagen is very flat 
 and uninteresting, and forms a strong 
 contrast to the wooded and varied 
 landscapes of the South of Sealand. 
 
 KOUTE 13. 
 
 ISLAND OF BORNHOLM. 
 
 Although this little island scarcely 
 offers enough to attract the ordinary 
 traveller, it possesses so many re¬ 
 markable relics of bygone times, 
 that a visit richly repays those who 
 take an interest in antiquities; and) 
 as there is a steamer every evening 
 from Copenhagen during eight months 
 of the year (March 1st to Oct. 31st), 
 a few days may easily be devoted to it. 
 The geological nature of the island 
 is entirely different from the rest of 
 Denmark; the original rock is hero 
 laid bare in the whole of the northern 
 and eastern part, and although the 
 height over the sea is only a few 
 hundred feet, yet the forms of the 
 rocks are exceedingly picturesque. 
 The southern and western part ex¬ 
 hibit on a very confined space a 
 perfect map of succeeding Silurian, 
 Triassic and Jurassic formations up 
 to the Chalk. (M. Jespersen of Bonne 
 has published a small geological 
 guide to Bornholm in Danish.) In¬ 
 stead of smiling lakes surrounded 
 by extensive woods, which form the 
 beauty of other parts of Denmark, 
 we have here wild rocky coasts 
 washed by the sea, &c. Numerous 
 Bunic stones, monuments consisting 
 of large boulders, and ancient camps, 
 bear witness to its pre-liistoric popu¬ 
 lation, whilst the remarkable circu¬ 
 lar churches , which at the same time 
 have served as fortified towers, carry 
 us back to the planting of Christianity 
 here in the 11th century, and the 
 mighty ruins of Hammerslmus testify 
 to the power of the church, in whose 
 hands the island was for a long time 
 before tire Beformation. 
 
 Note that the island has the shape 
 of a rhombus, at the N.W. angle of 
 which we find Sandvig, AlUnge, and 
 
90 
 
 ROUTE 13 . -RONNE. AAKIRKEBY. 
 
 Denmark . 
 
 the Hammershuus ruin ; at the S,W. 
 angle BSnne, and at the N.E. Svanihe; 
 Gudhjem in the centre of the 
 coast, nearly midway between Allinge 
 and Svanike; Hade in the centre of 
 the W. coast, nearly midway between 
 the Hammershuus and Bonne; Nexii 
 in the centre of the E. coast; Al- 
 mindingen Wood, Lilleborg, and 
 Aakirkeby, a little to the S. of the 
 centre of the island. 
 
 The steamer leaves Copenhagen in 
 the evening, and arrives at Bonne 
 the next morning (fare, 8 kr. 50 o.), 
 or if it touches at the port of Ystad 
 in Skaane, 2 hours later. Bonne 
 {Inns: Dams and Hotel Ronne), is 
 the principal town of the island, with 
 6000 Inliab., but offers nothing of 
 interest itself. The principal excur¬ 
 sion is to 
 
 Almindingen, a wood which occu¬ 
 pies the highest part of the island, 
 8 m. from Ronne. About a mile 
 from Ronne to the 1. is a seam of 
 Kaolin earth, from which the china 
 masiufactories in Copenhagen get 
 their supply. 3 m. from Ronne is a 
 cross road leading to 
 
 SyMrke, about 2 m. distant 1. 
 This is one of the 4 circular Churches 
 in Bornholm, and probably the oldest. 
 It consists of three parts, the ro¬ 
 tunda, the chancel with an apse, and 
 the porch, which is of much later 
 date. The former consists of an 
 annular space covered by a barrel 
 vault, supported by a very thick 
 central pier and the circular outer 
 wall. In this wall is a staircase 
 leading to the loft above, and, as it 
 is continued higher up, there has 
 probably been a third story with a 
 timber floor. An inscription on an 
 old door fixes the date of this church 
 at 1287, but it is supposed to be 
 older. Returning to the road from 
 Ronne to Almindingen, and con¬ 
 tinuing the latter straight on into the 
 wood, the beat plan is to turn to the 
 rt. in order to reach the top of 
 
 Bytterknmgten, the highest point 
 on the island, on which a square 
 
 tower of granite, 40 ft. in height, was 
 erected in 1856, in commemoration 
 of King Frederik VII.’s visit in 1851. 
 From the platform the entire island 
 is surveyed, forming a magnificent 
 panorama. After having enjoyed 
 this, one should return a little way 
 by the same road in order to take 
 a path to the rt. leading to the 
 interesting ruins of 
 
 Lilleborg, which is supposed to 
 have been destroyed about the middle 
 of the 13th century. The island 
 belonged partly to the Crown, 
 partly to the Archbishop of Lund, 
 and for a long time its possession 
 was contested by force of arms; 
 Lilleborg is supposed to have been 
 a sort of detached fort belonging to 
 Gammelborg, which is J m. distant, 
 and is of far greater extent, the di¬ 
 mensions of the latter being 840 ft. 
 by 140. This is supposed to have 
 been the Royal stronghold, which 
 was taken and destroyed by the 
 brothers of Bishop Erlandsen in 
 1260. There are no remains of 
 buildings, but considerable fragments 
 of the walls. Almindingen is inter¬ 
 sected in all directions by pretty 
 walks; for instance, to the Bolt- 
 hesteen, a huge rocking-stone of 200 
 tons weight, poised on a point so 
 that it can easily be made to oscillate. 
 A whole day may be spent here very 
 pleasantly, hut if time is short it is 
 advisable to start early from Ronne 
 for Almindingen without stopping to 
 see Nykirke, and one may then on 
 the same day in the afternoon visit 
 Aakirkeby, which is only 3 m. from 
 Rytterknaegten, and return in the 
 evening to Ronne 9 m. 
 
 Aakirkeby (Petersen’s Inn) is re¬ 
 markable for its ancient and very pe¬ 
 culiar Church, which about the year 
 1150 was brought into its present 
 shape. The nave was divided into 
 two by a row of pillars and arches, 
 supporting another arcade, which 
 again supports a free wall reaching 
 to the roof. There is a small bap¬ 
 tistery with an exceedingly remark- 
 
Denmark. 
 
 route 13 . —hasle; hammershuus. 
 
 91 
 
 able font of granite, with bassi-relievi 
 representing scenes from the life of 
 our Lord, and with explanatory 
 inscriptions in Runes and in the 
 ancient Scandinavian dialect. It 
 has a large square tower in 4 stories, 
 like some of the very earliest towers 
 in England, and undoubtedly calcu¬ 
 lated for defence. The whole is built 
 of roughly cut blocks of black marble 
 —of course whitewashed. In the 
 porch are two Runic stones. 
 
 The road from Aakirkeby to Bonne 
 offers nothing of interest; but about 
 half-way, rt., is Nylarsker, a circular 
 church like Nykirke but larger, and 
 with 3 stories, of which the second has 
 a vaulted roof like the church itself, 
 and an altar niche. The third story 
 has only a wooden roof, but double 
 outer walls with openings, evidently 
 to facilitate a defence. The material 
 is granite. 
 
 A second excursion, which occupies 
 2 or 3 days, includes all the principal 
 objects of interest in the island, 
 namely to Hammershuus and back 
 by way of Gudhjem and Oster 
 Larsker. Two days more would 
 complete the round of the island, but 
 geologists or achreologists would pro¬ 
 bably find themselves tempted to 
 stay longer at more than one point. 
 
 The road from Ronne to Hammers¬ 
 huus runs in a northerly direction 
 through a pine wood, which has been 
 planted in order to keep down drift¬ 
 ing sands, and leaves to the left the 
 coal-mines of Sortbat and Hasle, 
 which are of importance for the island 
 itself, though the coals (of the Ju¬ 
 rassic formation) are of inferior value 
 to the English as fuel. About 51 m. 
 N. of Ronne there is to the 1., near a 
 bridge, a very fine and large Runic 
 stone. The little town of 
 
 Hasle (Hartz’s Inn), 7 m. from 
 Ronne, offers nothing remarkable 
 except a fine carved and gilt altar, 
 from the loth century, in the church. 
 2 m. farther is Ruth's Jcirke, an old 
 church of granite on a high hill, the 
 first point on Bornholm that is seen 
 
 on approaching it from the W. From 
 here 2 roads may be followed—either 
 the ordinary carriage road by Olsker 
 to Allinge and thence to Hammers- 
 hus, or a nearer but rather bad road 
 across the fields and a common called 
 Slotslyngen. We prefer the latter; 
 and about a mile from Ruthsker (the 
 local abbreviation for Ruthskirke), 
 where the road divides, we take that 
 of the left hand towards the sea in 
 order to inspect a very picturesque 
 spot called 
 
 Jons Kapet, consisting of perpendi¬ 
 cular rocks, natural caves, and huge 
 blocks thrown down in wild disorder, 
 over whicli the waves of the sea are 
 breaking. The name is derived from a 
 legend,to the effect that a certain m i s- 
 sionary of the name of Jon preached 
 there to the heathen natives from a 
 natural prominence of the rock called 
 Jons pulpit; wild roses, alder, and 
 ivy grow luxuriantly in the openings 
 of the rocks. The return must be by 
 the same way, in order to resume the 
 journey to Hammershuus inside the 
 Ringebaklter, a fell about a mile long, 
 falling down precipitously to the 
 sea. The ruins soou become visible 
 to the left, near the northern pro¬ 
 montory of the island “ Hammeren,” 
 where a lighthouse is erected. 
 
 The ruins of Hammershuus, 14 or 
 15 m. from Ronne, are not only the 
 finest in Denmark but are quite 
 equal in extent and beauty to many 
 of the finest mediaeval remains in 
 other countries. The Castle was 
 built on an isolated rock, in the 
 middle of the 13th century, by Arch¬ 
 bishop Erlandsen of Lund, and, in 
 the subsequent feuds between him 
 and his successors and the Danish 
 kings, it was frequently taken and 
 retaken by both parties, but remained 
 at last in the hands of the Bishops 
 for a couple of centuries, till the 
 beginning of the 16th century, when 
 King Christian II. once more took 
 possession of it; in a subsequent 
 war between Denmark and the Han¬ 
 seatic League, the forces of the latter 
 
92 
 
 ROUTE 13 . — GUDHJEM. SVANIKE. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 conquered the castle and the island 
 in 1522, and retained it for 54 years. 
 In 1658 Bornholm was ceded to 
 Sweden with the other Danish pro¬ 
 vinces E. of the Sound, but the in¬ 
 habitants killed the Swedish garrison 
 and returned to their old allegiance. 
 Since then Hammershuus has been 
 left to decay, and it was only in 1822 
 that a Royal decree was issued, order¬ 
 ing the preservation of the Ruins. 
 The principal relic of these is a 
 huge square tower 6 stories high, 
 a lower circular tower, the so-called 
 “ Mandeltaam,” and the walls of the 
 church, &c. The outer walls of the 
 fortress have been 30 ft. high and are 
 built of granite. The view over the 
 sea is very beautiful, and at the foot 
 of the rocks there are 2 fine caves, of 
 which one, “ den vaade Ovn,” is only 
 accessible in boats. 
 
 Through a little place called 
 Sandvig the road leads to Allinge 
 (Hammershuus H., Skandia H.). 
 The town of 800 Inhab. has no¬ 
 thing to detain travellers, and next 
 morning the journey may be resumed 
 southwards with a view of exploring 
 Bo Sogn, the prettiest district on 
 the island. About 2b m. S. of 
 Allinge is 
 
 OlsMrke, the third of the circular 
 churches, similar to that of Ny- 
 larslcer above described. 2 m. 
 further on, near a farm called Dyn- 
 dalegaard, a foot-path leads to “Amt- 
 mandsstenen ” with a fine view, and 
 through the valley of Dyndal to the 
 shore, and along this to Helligdom- 
 men, a very picturesque spot, with 
 wild rocks, caves, &c. In fine weather 
 the carriage might be sent on to 
 Dyndalegaard, and the distance from 
 Allinge to Helligdommen be per¬ 
 formed in a boat, affording a fine 
 view of the coast. 
 
 Gudhjem (Koch’s Inn), 11 | m. by 
 road from Allinge, is a small fishing- 
 village, in appearance not unlike one 
 of the smaller Norwegian towns, from 
 which a boat may be hired for an 
 excursion to Christiansu (post boat 
 
 from Svaneke twice a week), a pic¬ 
 turesque little group of rocks about 
 14 m. off, formerly fortified, but 
 now only serving the purpose of a 
 harbour of refuge. Starting early 
 from Allinge, one may dine at the 
 very modest inn of Gudhjem, and in 
 the afternoon return to Rbnne, if 
 time does not permit a long stay. 
 In any case, whether returning to 
 Ronne or continuing the circuit of the 
 island, the road passes by 
 
 Osterlars kirke, the largest and 
 finest Circular Church, of Bornholm, 
 Here the central part of the edifice 
 is not formed by a round pier, but 
 by a circular arcade of 6 semicircular 
 arches resting on short massive 
 pillars, and supporting an inner cu¬ 
 pola ; the second story is like the 
 lower story, only square openings 
 replace the 6 arches in the middle. 
 The third story has double walls, 
 like those in Olsker and Nylarsker, 
 but in this latter and in Osterlarsker 
 they are not supposed to be original ; 
 it is thought that the circular roof 
 rested on the vault of the second 
 story, and that the central cylinder, 
 to which here only a door leads, 
 showed itself as a sort of central 
 spire. The chancel has rounded 
 side walls and an apse. 
 
 If the tour is extended to Svanike 
 (Carlsen’s Hotel) on the E. coast of 
 the island 11 m. from Gudhjem, a 
 visit should be paid to Bandklove- 
 skaaret —a wild rocky spot on the 
 coast just E. of Osterlarsker and 
 in the neighbour-hood of Svanike— 
 Louiselund, and Frsendemark, both 
 with numerous fine memorial stones 
 without inscriptions. 
 
 54 nr. S. of Svanike is Nexo, and 
 on the road thither a visit should be 
 paid to Paradishakkeme, with an old 
 fortress called Gamlehorg, like the 
 one in Almindingen but much older. 
 Remains of the walls are extant, but 
 there is no vestige of cement or lime 
 having been used in their construc¬ 
 tion. Another similar place is found 
 | at Bispehjerget, an isolated hill 5 m. 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 14 . — FYEN : FAABORG. 
 
 93 
 
 from Xexb and rather out of the way. 
 From Xexo to Ronne the distance 
 is 18 m. by way of Aakirheby, which 
 we have mentioned above. 
 
 ROUTE 14. 
 
 FYEN. 
 
 Fyen (on German maps erroneously 
 named Funen), whicli is separated 
 from Sealand by the Great Belt and 
 from Schleswig by the Little Belt, is 
 one of the most fertile and best cul¬ 
 tivated parts of Denmark, but it 
 agrees in its natural properties and 
 general aspect so nearly with Sea- 
 land, that the ordinary traveller who 
 has seen the finest districts of that 
 island, would scarcely' find it worth 
 while to spend time on excursions in 
 Fyen. 
 
 Odense Stat., the capital of the 
 island, is now the second town in 
 Denmark, and has been described in 
 Rte. 6, p. 12 et seq., as well as Nijborg 
 and the line from this place through 
 Odense to Strib and Middlefart, and 
 we shall therefore here confine our¬ 
 selves to a very few and short indi¬ 
 cations. The finest part of Fyen is 
 the southern, and a round from Xy- 
 borg to Svendborg, thence through 
 Faaborg to Assens, and thence to 
 Aarup Station on the railway be¬ 
 tween Middlefart and Odense, offers 
 a succession of pretty landscapes as 
 attractive as any in Denmark. 
 
 The route should be from Xyborg 
 to Svendborg (21 m.). There are 
 two roads, the more preferable is 
 
 through Orb.'ck, close to the manor 
 of Orbxklund, with a fine house 
 erected in 1593. 
 
 Kongshoi Hammer vserk, prettily 
 situated in a deep valley, where a 
 little river affords the necessary 
 water-power for the mills. 
 
 Glorup, the seat of Count Moltke- 
 Glorup, with a beautiful garden 
 covering 120 acres,fine hot-houses,&c. 
 
 Hesselagergaard, built in 1538 
 (near this is the Damenstein, the 
 largest boulder in Denmark, 10 ft. 
 high above ground, 166 ft. in cir¬ 
 cumference), past JBroholm, with 3 
 pretty spires (near which is the new 
 landing-pla''C Lundeborg , with Inn , 
 baths, &c.), through Skaarnp to 
 Svendborg. Or the train may be 
 taken from Odense, via Hinge , where 
 there is a junction for Faaborg. 
 
 Svendborg Stat. (Yandall s Hotel: 
 Hotel Svendborg), a rising town 
 with 6600 Inliab., has been described 
 already in Rte. 6, together with the 
 adjoining island of Taasinge. The 
 road from Svendborg to Faaborg, 
 16 m., leads past Hvidkilde and 
 Holsteenhuus, with fine parks open 
 to visitors; just beyond the latter 
 a road turns to the right leading 
 to Kongshoi, a hill with a beautiful 
 view. 
 
 Faaborg Stat., Pop. 3800 (Ras¬ 
 mussen’s Hotel), on tire Little Belt, 
 has a Church built in the 15th cen¬ 
 tury, with 20 finely-carved stalls 
 in the choir, a beautifully carved 
 altar of 1511, &c. The altar now 
 used has a fine picture by Marstrand 
 u Christ at Eramaus.” 3 m. from 
 Faaborg is the manor - house of 
 Hvedholm, built 1590, and in the 
 village of Horne close by, an exceed¬ 
 ingly interesting Church, originally 
 circular, now eularged by the addi¬ 
 tion of a chancel and a Gothic 
 tower. 
 
 Opposite Faaborg is the island 
 of Lyii, where Yaldemar II. was 
 captured and carried away by Count 
 Henrik of Schwerin in 1223. From 
 Faaborg, Odense may be reached 
 
94 
 
 BOUTE 15.-EAST JUTLAND. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 either by train by way of Querndrup 
 and. Hinge, past the interesting old 
 seats of Brahetrolleborg and Egeskov 
 (about 26 m.), or by the direct postal 
 road (22 m.), which, however, is very 
 uninteresting; or by the way of 
 
 Assens, on the Little Belt (Hotel 
 Phonix), and Aarup or Breed Station 
 on the line between Middlefart 
 and Odense (34 m. besides the 
 railway journey). There is a good 
 view from the cemetery at Assens, 
 and it contains two fine monuments 
 to the soldiers who fell in 1848 and 
 1864, and excursions may be made 
 to the woods of Fredriksgave and the 
 church of Dreslette with a fine view. 
 The latter points may be visited on 
 the journey from Faaborg to Assens, 
 and next day an excursion may be 
 made to Vissenbjerg with a very fine 
 view, about 3 m. N. of Breed Station, 
 to which the traveller must then 
 return. 
 
 A glance at the map will show 
 that the lines of railway radiate 
 from Odense as a centre; N.W. to 
 Bogense; W. to Middlefart, en route 
 for Jutland (Rte. 6); S. to Faaborg 
 and Svendborg; and E. to Nyborg 
 en route for Korsbr and Copenhagen 
 (Rte. 6). Steamers run from various 
 ports of Fyen to Copenhagen and 
 other parts of Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 15. 
 
 EAST JUTLAND. 
 
 Jutland, or Northjutland as it is 
 generally called in contradistinction 
 to Schleswig, the ancient Southjut- 
 
 land, is the largest of the present 
 provinces of the Danish kingdom, 
 and of more varied nature than 
 any other. Almost all the towns 
 are situated close to the sea, or 
 on inlets from the sea, and as those 
 on the E. coast are mostly in direct 
 communication with Copenhagen or 
 Korsor by steamer, it would be im¬ 
 possible to point out any route par 
 excellence from Copenhagen to Jut¬ 
 land. We shall therefore simply 
 give an account of the most re¬ 
 markable objects and places, fol¬ 
 lowing the E. coast from S. to N. 
 returning by the W. coast (Rte. 16), 
 as the interior almost entirely con¬ 
 sists of extensive, thinly populated 
 heaths, offering no inducement to 
 the traveller. 
 
 By reference to the map it will be 
 seen that the railway which enters 
 Jutland at Vandrup trends some¬ 
 what to the E., passing through 
 Folding and Fredericia (the nearest 
 point to Fyen, and the direct route 
 from Jutland to Copenhagen). 
 Thence the line returns in a N.W. 
 direction to Vtile, rounds the fjord, 
 and passes through Horsens to 
 
 Skanderborg. Here a branch line 
 leads through Lauen to Silkeborg, 
 and connects the E. Jutland line 
 with the W., passing by way of 
 Herning to Tarm. The main E. 
 line proceeds N. from Skanderborg 
 to Aarliuus and Banders, whence 
 branches line E. to Greenaa, and 
 W. to Viborg, Skine, aud Struer 
 (Rte. 16). From Randers the line 
 proceeding N. passes through Hobro, 
 Sltjorping, Aarborg, Norre-Lundby, 
 and Hjorring to Frederikshavn. 
 
 The 2 southernmost towns in Jut¬ 
 land, Folding and Fredericia, have 
 already been sufficiently noticed in 
 Rte. 6. 
 
 From Fredericia we follow the 
 Eastjutland Railway, and the first 
 town is Veile, at the head of Veile- 
 fjord. The last part of the line 
 before reaching Veile runs parallel 
 
Denmark. route 15. —east Jutland : yeile ; horsens. 95 
 
 with the fjord, and the view across 
 it to the manor of Tirsbseh and 
 the woods on the N. coast is very 
 pretty. 
 
 Veile Stat. (Brandt’s Hotel; Hotel 
 Boyal) is a rising town of nearly 
 7000 Inhab. at the outlet of a little 
 river, and is chiefly noted for its 
 charming neighbourhood. In every 
 direction there are beautiful walks, 
 and the traveller need only go 
 outside the N. end of the town and 
 follow any road or path. A beauti¬ 
 ful walk of 4 or 5 m. is along the 
 northern shore to Tirshirk, with a 
 beautiful park and very interesting 
 old buildings; from the hills, under 
 which the path runs, fine views to 
 the fjord as far as Fyen. Boats can 
 always be obtained in the harbour 
 for a sail or excursion to Tirsbseh. 
 
 A pleasant drive is through Greis- 
 dal, a beautifully-wooded valley, 
 which may easily be visited on foot 
 from Yeile, by Greismills, and Leer- 
 bxk to Jellinge (Inn), a village in 
 which stands two mighty barrows, 
 almost overtopping the little church, 
 the burial-places of Gorm the first 
 King of United Denmark and his 
 queen Tlnjra Danebod, and the last 
 Danish king and queen buried ac¬ 
 cording to the rites of paganism, 
 about the year 940. The burial- 
 chamber of Thyra’s barrow is of 
 heavy oak timber and is now ren¬ 
 dered accessible. The key is kept 
 in a neighbouring house. The few 
 objects found here when the bar- 
 row was opened 1861 are preserved 
 in the Museum of Antiquities in Co¬ 
 penhagen. In the churchyard are 
 two Runic stones, the smaller one 
 erected by King Gorm in memory of 
 Queen Thyra; the larger one erected 
 by their son King Harald Blaatand 
 in memory of his parents. This latter 
 is very handsome, with figures in 
 basso-relievo; on the one side a 
 crucified figure, on the other a 
 dragon, round which a serpent coils 
 itself. 
 
 From Jellinge the roads turns to 
 
 the S. past Faarup Lake, through a 
 country abounding in barrows to 
 Engelholm, a handsome old manor- 
 house built in 1592 by Knud Brahe, 
 brother of the famous astronomer 
 Tycho Brahe. Through a fine little 
 beech-wood adjoining the garden a 
 road leads to Engelsliolms Cbthmill in 
 a deep valley, where it is not observed 
 till one reaches the edge of the plateau. 
 The mill is worked by a small river 
 which rises in the lakeof Engelsholm, 
 and after a very rapid course joins 
 the Veileaa. On the other side are 
 seen the commencement of Rand- 
 bolliede, one of the most desolate 
 tracts of the Jutlaud heath, and also 
 some pine-plantations, intended to 
 serve as nuclei for future forests to 
 utilise the now useless heath. Not far 
 from here are hills of now stationary 
 drifting sand. The whole desolate 
 neighbourhood to the W. of the river 
 shows clear vestiges of having once 
 been populous and cultivated. For 
 the return journey the shortest route 
 is by Bresten, a village with a good 
 roadside Inn, and the highroad to 
 Yeile about 7 m., past Ilaraldskjirr, 
 a very old, now modernised, manor- 
 house, supposed to derive its name 
 from Harald Blaatand. If, however, 
 it is not too late in the day, a pretty 
 round may be made by way of Kjel- 
 kjxr farm and Kobbervxket (paper- 
 mill), joining the ordinary road at 
 Haraldskjser. It is a long and some¬ 
 what fatiguing excursion occupying 
 the whole day, but it gives an admir¬ 
 able idea of the character of the 
 Cimbrian peninsula (carriage 16 kr.). 
 
 Horsens Stat. (Jorgensen’s Ho¬ 
 tel ; H. Skandinavien; Syele’s Ho¬ 
 tel), 19 m. N. of Veile, is the next 
 town to which the railway leads. 
 This well-built town of 14,000 Inhab. 
 is also situated at the head of an 
 inlet from the sea, but, though the 
 neighbourhood is pretty, it cannot 
 compare with Veile in this respect. 
 There are a few old houses with 
 carved timber, and For Frelser’sKirke 
 has some interesting architectural 
 
Denmark. 
 
 56 ROUTE 15 . — SKANDERBORG ; SILKEBORG. 
 
 details, and a beautifully carved pul¬ 
 pit, which reminds us of the character 
 of the work of the altar in Schleswig 
 Cathedral, and originally belonged 
 to the Grey friars' Church, nearer the 
 harbour, one of the only 2 churches 
 built by this Order which still exist 
 in Denmark, now disused for ser¬ 
 vice and in a bad state of repair, 
 but containing tombs of Lichtenberg 
 and Brunswick-Liineburg princes. 
 A short distance from the town is the 
 provincial prison of Jutland, a very 
 large and well-arranged establish¬ 
 ment. Excursions may be made to 
 Boiler (3 m.), one of the most ancient 
 manors in Denmark (the most 
 modern part dates from 1588), near 
 the southern coast of the fjord, and to 
 the woods of Steensballe (3 m.) on the 
 northern shore with beautiful views. 
 
 Skanderborg (Phoenix, a very mo¬ 
 dest Inn, and Scandinavia), 1700 
 Inhab., 18 m. north of Horsens, 
 takes its name from an ancient castle 
 which stood here till 1707, when 
 it was demolished, with the excep¬ 
 tion of one tower and the Chapel , 
 now the parish church. It had been 
 the scene of many important hi storica1 
 •events, and often served as a re¬ 
 sidence. Near the church is a mo¬ 
 nument to Frederik VI., a marble 
 bust erected 1845 on a pedestal of 
 granite, ornamented with bassi- 
 relievi, representing Justice, Liberty, 
 Enlightenment, and the Institution 
 of the Provincial Estates, established 
 in 1834 by Frederik VI.,which formed 
 the beginning of the present free 
 constitution of Denmark. Close by 
 is the village of Shandrup, with a 
 very peculiar church tower. The 
 church was entirely gutted by the 
 German troops in 1841), but is now 
 very tastefully restored. About 4 m. 
 •to the N.W. of Skanderborg was 
 formerly the monastery of Veng, of 
 •the buildings of which a very in¬ 
 teresting Church remains. 
 
 From Skanderborg a branch rly. 
 (17 m.) leads to Silheborg, in the 
 centre of Jutland, and in a neigh¬ 
 
 bourhood exceptionally rich in for¬ 
 ests and lakes. The line passes the 
 church of Dover, with a similar 
 tower to that in Skandrup, and 
 leaving the string of lakes to the 
 1. offers several line views of the 
 country. 
 
 Silkeborg ( Inns : Silkeborg and 
 Dania) was originally only a manor 
 belonging to the bishops of Aar- 
 huus, and the derivation of the 
 name is, according to legend, the fol¬ 
 lowing. One Bishop Peter was sail¬ 
 ing on the lake, and considering 
 which would be the best place for a 
 manor-house, when the wind caught 
 hold of his silk cap and carried it 
 into the sea. The prelate vowed that 
 the manor-house should be built 
 wherever the cap should be thrown 
 upon the shore, and because it was 
 a silken cap the house was called 
 Silkeborg. The estate came to the 
 crown at the Reformation, but the 
 kings rarely come here, and the so- 
 called “ Slot ” or palace is a very 
 insignificant building. In 1845, a 
 large paper-mill was established 
 here, and since then a town has 
 arisen, which has already 3000 
 Inhab. 
 
 Silkeborg is situated in the valley 
 of Guden-aa, the largest river in 
 Denmark, which here expands into a 
 series of lakes, surrounded by dense 
 beech-woods or steep hills overgrown 
 with heath. 
 
 The principal excursion is to 
 
 Himmelbjerget, 550 ft. (Hotel (hid 
 Restaurant), on the S. shore of luul 
 So, about 10 m. drive (carriage 8 kro- 
 ners), and 3 m. from Ely. stat. The 
 view is very extensive and varied, 
 and particularly in the afternoon or 
 evening very characteristic. Another 
 point of great beauty is Tindbjerg. 
 To lovers of wood and lake scenery 
 this Avhole neighbourhood is an inex¬ 
 haustible source of delight; those 
 who are able to spare but a day can 
 manage to see the best points, by 
 driving in the morning to Norreshov, 
 the wood east of Silkeborg, which 
 
Denmark. 
 
 ROUTE 15. -AARHUUS ; THORSAGER. 97 
 
 is traversed by the rly.; the best 
 views are from “ Ulvehovedet ” and 
 Louisehoi, thence through Vestershov, 
 which is south of Silkeborg, about 
 one mile off; the best points are 
 Frederilcehhoi and Frederih VII.’s 
 Hoi (5 m. walk from Silkeborg), 
 to Himmelbjerget, and thence home 
 through the woods, or by steamer 
 plying on the lakes in summer, to 
 Silkeborg, or by rhj. to Skanderborg. 
 
 Aarhuus Stat.(HoteliKoyal,Skandi- 
 navien), 13 m. north of Skanderborg, 
 a thriving town of 24,000 Inhab., is 
 one of the oldest in the kingdom, 
 and as early as 94S it became the 
 seat of a bishop. 
 
 The Cathedral is the longest 
 church in Denmark (296 ft.), com¬ 
 menced in 1201, by Bishop Peter 
 Vagnsen of the famous house of 
 Hvide, who died in 1204, and is 
 buried under the altar; but much 
 altered in the course of time. The 
 spire, 340 ft. high, which formerly 
 surmounted the colossal tower, was 
 destroyed several times, last in 1772, 
 restored in 1881; the two small 
 towers, too, had originally tall spires. 
 By judicious restoration most of the 
 tasteless mutilations of later times 
 are removed, and the original beauties 
 of the building are brought to light 
 again. The choir is particularly 
 light and elegant. The altar bears 
 the date of 1479, and displays beau¬ 
 tiful carving on a gold [ground. As 
 an many Danish churches, a ship is 
 suspended in the centre of the cross; 
 this particular one is a model which 
 Peter the Great had bought in Hol¬ 
 land, but which never reached its 
 destination, the vessel which had it 
 on board being wrecked on the coast 
 of Jutland. The numerous chapels 
 are chiefly used as family sepulchres, 
 and a great many persons known in 
 Danish history repose here. 
 
 Vor Frue Kirlce, originally the 
 chapel of a Dominican monastery, 
 is still preserved to a great extent, 
 and is used as an hospital; it is very 
 
 [ 'Denmark .] 
 
 well worth a visit. The date of the 
 building is 1280. 
 
 The Lunatic Asylum N. of the 
 town is also noteworthy. 
 
 In the town are several old houses 
 with carved timber framework. 
 
 The immediate neighbourhood is 
 pretty, and Biislcov to the north, 
 Marselisborg, and other woods along 
 the coast to the south, afford charm¬ 
 ing excursions, though principally 
 for pedestrians, as the latter woods 
 are private property, and not open 
 to carriages except on Sundays and 
 Feast days. A longer excursion is 
 to Frijsenborg, the seat and park of 
 Count Frijs-Frijsenborg, once Prime 
 Minister, and the largest landed pro¬ 
 prietor in Denmark. The distance by 
 road is about 15 m.; a carriage costs 
 12 kroners; but from the Hinnerup 
 station it is only a walk of 6 m. 
 The house is modem Elizabethan, 
 and very handsome. 
 
 Between Aarhuus and the next 
 town, Banders, the rly. as well as 
 the highroad cuts across the base of 
 a peninsula formed by the sea and 
 the fjord of Banders, which contains 
 some of the prettiest scenery in Jut¬ 
 land. The direct distance is by road 
 21 m.; by rly., on account of the 
 windings of the valley in which it 
 is built, nearly 36 m. Those who 
 wish to explore Jutland will prefer 
 to spend a couple of days on a drive 
 through this peninsula, sleeping at 
 G-renaa, or better, three days, sleep¬ 
 ing at Ebeltoft and Grenaa. 
 
 For the first 10 m. the road offers 
 nothing remarkable. After passing 
 the village of Shjbldstrup it divides. 
 One branch, which we will first men¬ 
 tion, takes an easterly direction, and 
 soon reaches the sea. After a couple 
 of miles’ drive along the shore a side 
 road turns sharply to the left inland, 
 which leads to 
 
 Thor soger, which is about 4 m. 
 out of the way. It possesses the 
 finest and best preserved Circular 
 Church in Denmark, built on an 
 isolated hill, which, in all pro- 
 H 
 
98 
 
 koute 15. —east Jutland : ebeltoet. Denmark. 
 
 bability, was a principal place of 
 worship for the Scandinavian deity 
 Thor. This church was built about 
 the year 1200, by Bishop Peder 
 Vagnsen of Aarhuus, who also 
 commenced the building of the ca¬ 
 thedral at Aarhuus. The round arch 
 is exclusively used, and the brick¬ 
 work is unusually well finished. 
 
 The other branch of the road from 
 Aarhuus, leads from Skjoldstrup to 
 the north past the church of Homs- 
 let , having a fine altar of alabaster 
 and carved oak, to the manor-house 
 of Rosenholm, the seat of the family 
 of Rosenkrands, 6 m. from Aarhuus. 
 The house w r as built in 1569. Here 
 a side road leads eastward to Thor- 
 sager, about 5 m. through the village 
 of Morke, with a very cdd church 
 having curious sculptured stones. In 
 any case the journey is continued 
 from Thorsager by another and 
 better road, which joins the high¬ 
 road from Aarhuus at Kalo Lade¬ 
 gaard. originally the farmstead of 
 Kalo Castle, of which the ruins si¬ 
 tuated on an island in Kalo Vig, a 
 bay of the Kattegat, form the next 
 object of our attention. It is neces¬ 
 sary to drive about a mile towards 
 Aarhuus to a tolerable good roadside 
 inn, called Ronde Kro, whence a side 
 road leads southwards to the Ruin. 
 Here was originally a monastery, 
 but in 1313 a fortified castle was 
 built by King Erik Menved, which 
 remained till 1672, when it was de¬ 
 molished in order to furnish mate¬ 
 rials for Charlottenborg Palace, in 
 Copenhagen. Amongst notable state 
 prisoners who have been incarcerated 
 here, we may mention Gustavus Vasa, 
 who was brought hither in 1518, but 
 escaped, and after having placed him¬ 
 self at the head of the discontented 
 Swedes, accomplished the final dis¬ 
 ruption of the three Scandinavian 
 kingdoms, and founded a new dy¬ 
 nasty in Sweden. A massive square 
 tower and part of the outer wall re¬ 
 main. The view over the sea is fine. 
 
 We return to Ronde Kro and Kalo 
 Ladegaard, where two main roads 
 lead eastward, of which the more 
 northerly road leads to Greenaa, past 
 the ancient churches of Nodager and 
 Lynghy, with very interesting Nor¬ 
 man details, in the first a fine altar 
 painting from 1647; and following 
 the lake of Kolind Sund, originally 
 a fjord, but long siuce converted 
 into a lake by the formation of 
 extensive meadows at its mouth. 
 
 The more southerly of the two 
 roads leads from Kalo Ladegaard to 
 Ebeltoft, past the ancient manor of 
 Mollerup and the pretty old church 
 of Feldballe, from whence a road 
 leads to Tirstrup, quite 4 m. out 
 of the direct way, but worthy of 
 a visit by lovers of ancient art, on 
 account of the church, which is not 
 only interesting in itself, but has 
 a very fine carved altar, and a very 
 remarkable sculptured stone pulpit, 
 which must have been brought from 
 abroad. 
 
 Ebeltoft is an insignificant little 
 town (Schlavitz Hotel) of 1300 In- 
 hab., and the immediate neighbour¬ 
 hood is uninteresting, but the road 
 from here to Greenaa leads through 
 very pretty country. Half an hour’s 
 walk from the town is a wood called 
 “ Shoven ” (Restaurant), with a good 
 view of the peninsula of Mols, whose 
 inhabitants are celebrated in Danish 
 popular tales on account of their 
 supposed unconscionable naivete', not 
 to say stupidity, of which there are 
 scores of ludicrous anecdotes. The 
 southern extremity of Mols is formed 
 by Helgemes, which is only connected 
 with the mainland by a narrow isth¬ 
 mus ; in ancient times the latter was 
 defended by a wall of which vestiges 
 remain, and it was also fortified 
 during the late wars between Den¬ 
 mark and Germany. It was from 
 here that General Rye, in 1849, after 
 having been obliged to retire before 
 the far more numerous German army, 
 took ship with his whole corps 
 d’arme'e, and suddenly appearing 
 
Denmark. 
 
 99 
 
 ROUTE 15 . —GRENAA ; BANDERS. 
 
 before Frederick, far in the rear of 
 the enemy, won the battle of Frede- 
 ricia. The sea is very deep quite 
 close to the coast of Helgenses. 
 
 Helgena?s is said to have belonged 
 to Marsh Stig, who murdered King 
 Erik Glipping in 1286, and whose 
 adherents afterwards caused much 
 trouble and civil war. He is sup¬ 
 posed to have raised the above- 
 mentioned fortification across the 
 isthmus, and on the island Hjelm in 
 the Kattegat, not far off, he is said 
 to have had a castle, but of this no 
 traces are found. The deed of Marsk 
 Stig, and the events connected with 
 it, form the theme of a whole cycle 
 of ancient ballads. 
 
 The highroad between Ebeltoft 
 and Grenaa (18 m.) is not parti¬ 
 cularly interesting, but there is a 
 road between that and the shore 
 which leads to some of the prettiest 
 scenery in Jutland, namely, by the 
 manors of Bugaard and Katholm , 
 both with very interesting old build¬ 
 ings from the latter half of the 16th 
 century. Or we may go by train 
 from either Aarhuus or Sanders. 
 
 Grenaa Stat. (Hotel Dagmar), 
 2000 Inhab., has nothing of interest 
 beyond an old lately restored church, 
 but a very pretty excursion may be 
 made from here to Benzon, a fine old 
 manor-house built about the year 
 1600, with beautiful park and woods; 
 both from here and upon the whole 
 from the coast near Grenaa the 
 views over the sea are very fine. 
 
 From Grenaa to Banders the dis¬ 
 tance is 33 miles, and if the route is 
 laid by Meilgaard, Lovenholln and 
 Gammel Estrap, a prettier drive is 
 not easily found. Glxsborg church, 
 7 m. from Grenaa, has a fine and 
 large carved altar (date 1618). 
 Meilgaard was built in 1573, and is 
 surrounded by hills, from which the 
 old red building with its woods and 
 the sea in the background make a 
 very charming panorama. 
 
 In Aigholm wood, close to sea, is 
 the celebrated kitchen-midden ofj 
 
 Meilsgaard, the first that was scien¬ 
 tifically explored; it was discovered 
 in 1S50, and archaeologists, who 
 bring their tools, are readily per¬ 
 mitted to examine it. On the sea¬ 
 shore itself are dunes of drifting 
 sand overtopping the beeches and 
 oaks of the forest, whose green tops 
 often are seen peeping out of the 
 sand. 
 
 Lovenholm is contemporary with 
 Meilgaard, and has a beautiful park. 
 In the woods there are still wild 
 stags. The church of Auning is 
 very pretty and contains the family 
 sepulchre of the Counts of Scheel, 
 whose seat, 
 
 Gammel Estrup, is about 2 m. 
 further to the west. This is one of 
 the finest buildings in Denmark of 
 the period of the renaissance, built 
 1630, in a very picturesque position 
 on one side of a broad valley. This 
 estate has the peculiarity of never 
 having been sold during the last 500 
 years, but it has only changed hands 
 by inheritance. In the banqueting 
 hall are woven tapestries of the 17th 
 century. 
 
 Nearer Eanders is the village of 
 Essenbxk, with a new church con¬ 
 taining a remarkable old font, which 
 probably belonged to a monastery 
 which was founded here in 1010 and 
 remained till the Eeformation. 
 
 There is a direct road from Ebeltoft 
 to Eanders through Thorsager (see 
 above) and past a fine manor-house 
 called Skaffogaard, with very pecu¬ 
 liar buildings, dating from the 16th 
 cent., and a famous piece of carved 
 furniture made of an oak which is 
 still standing with its roots in the 
 ground underneath the cellar. The 
 dimensions are 14 feet by 12. 
 
 The railway from Aarhuus to 
 Eanders follows the valley of the 
 Lilleaa, a tributary to Gudenaa, and 
 where the two valleys meet, at 
 Langaa is the junction with the 
 railway to Viborg and the West of 
 Jutland. 
 
 a 2 
 
100 
 
 route 15. —east jutlane : eanders. Denmark. 
 
 Randers Stat. (Randers Hotel) is 
 a very old town of 14,000 Inhab., on 
 the Gudenaa, which is navigable for 
 large merchant-ships. The town is 
 mentioned in the 11th cent., and 
 some of the earliest Danish coins 
 were struck here; many historical 
 events are connected with it, but 
 none more famous than the deed of 
 Niels Ebbesen, a Jutland nobleman, 
 who, on the 1st of April, 1340, with 
 a handful of men entered the town 
 which was occupied by Count Ger¬ 
 hard, of Holstein, who was quar¬ 
 tered there with 4000 soldiers, and 
 penetrating into the castle killed 
 the Count. Owing to civil war, 
 bad administration, and the personal 
 incompetence of the Danish king 
 Christopher, the whole country had 
 come into the possession of foreigners 
 Avho unscrupulously oppressed it. 
 Against this rule Niels Ebbesen 
 raised a rebellion which ended in 
 the liberation of the country under 
 Voldemar III. Nothing remains 
 now of the ancient castles which 
 are stated to have existed here, and 
 there are not many remains of old 
 buildings. 
 
 The church of St. Martin dates 
 from about the 14th cent., the choir 
 1494. It contains some good carv¬ 
 ing, is of red brick, with pointed 
 arches, and well restored 1870. 
 
 Randers is an important cattle- 
 market, and is the original seat of 
 the manufacture of the specially so- 
 called Danish gloves, and was cele¬ 
 brated for its salmon fisheries, which, 
 however, have much declined on 
 account of injudicious fishing. The 
 fish used to ascend the fjord of 
 Randers and the Gudenaa in great 
 quantity, and the manors along the 
 river derived great advantage from 
 their Laxegaarde or fishing-places. 
 Now only one remains, namely, at 
 Frisenvold, 5 m. from the town. The 
 neighbourhood is pretty; and,as this 
 part of Jutland was densely popu¬ 
 lated in the time of paganism, and 
 even in the Middle Ages, there are 
 
 a great number of fine old churches 
 and other antiquarian remains. 
 
 About 5 m. south of Randers is 
 the church of Olst, built of granite 
 with remarkable sculptures, an altar 
 of the same kind as those of Lisbjerg 
 and Tvenstrup, now in the museum 
 of Northern antiquities at Copen¬ 
 hagen, an ancient granite font, &c. 
 A visit to Olst may be combined 
 with a visit to Frisenvold, and to 
 Klausholm, with fine park and woods. 
 It was from Klausholm that Frederik 
 IV., in 1712, carried away the Coun¬ 
 tess Anna Sophia, daughter of the 
 then Lord Chancellor of Denmark, 
 Count Reventlow, whom he after¬ 
 wards made queen of Denmark. 
 
 A beautiful excursion may be 
 made to Fousingsd, a lake encircled 
 by woods and steep hills clothed 
 with heath, particularly fine near 
 Fasten church, as seen from Fou- 
 singsb mill. Near Lasten a great 
 quantity of ornaments, &c.—more 
 than 4000 pieces—of amber were 
 discovered some years ago, which are 
 now in the museum of Northern An¬ 
 tiquities in Copenhagen. On the 
 journey to Fousingso, the old church 
 of Bjerregrav with a Norman door¬ 
 way, under which is a Runic stone, 
 may be visited, and the return 
 journey should be laid through 
 
 Aalum, with one of the finest 
 granite churches in Norman style in 
 Denmark. Further to the south is 
 the fine manor of TJlstrup, built in 
 1617 ; in a wood close by is a large 
 Runic stone well known to archaeolo¬ 
 gists in Denmark as the Grondal 
 stone. Not far fromUlstrup was the 
 old Slcjern Castle, of which the foun¬ 
 dations are still seen; it was de¬ 
 stroyed in the 17th cent. The church 
 of Slcjern has a richly carved altar, 
 and two Runic stones. Returning 
 to Randers through Langaa and 
 Grcndsten, a third of these monu¬ 
 ments is seen near the church of this 
 latter village. 
 
 Interesting old churches are also 
 to be seen in Borup, 3 m. N. of 
 
ROUTE 15. —AALBORG. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 Banders, with a very fine carved 
 altar, Hald (granite) also with a 
 carved altar, formerly in St. Mar¬ 
 tins in Banders, about 7 m. N.E. of 
 Banders ; Holbelc with remarkably 
 flat vaults of granite, Orsted with 
 fine Norman doorway and sculptures 
 and very old font, Veilby with a 
 similar doorway. The last 3 may be 
 combined with a visit to the manors 
 of Stovringgaard (now a convent for 
 unmarried ladies of good family) 
 and Stenalt, viz., from Banders to 
 Stovringgaard, thence via Nellerup, 
 by “ the ferry ” across Banders- 
 fjord, thence to Holbek, and by 
 Orsted, Veilby, Essenbsek back to 
 Banders. 
 
 The country between Banders and 
 Aalborg on the Limfjord, about 50 
 English miles, is not sufficiently 
 interesting to compensate for the 
 tediousness of a journey by road, 
 which may be performed by two 
 different routes, viz., either by way of 
 Hald, Hadsund ferry on the Mariager 
 fjord, near which is a large kitclien- 
 midden on the manor of Havnd, 
 past Visborggaard (H m. out of the 
 way to the right), a very fine old 
 manor-house, built 1575, and Linden- 
 borg, the seat of Count Schimmel- 
 mann, erected in the 15th and 16tli 
 cents.— or by way of Hobro, past 
 Borup (see above) and North of 
 Hobro, through the extensive forest 
 of Bold, round which a little nest of 
 old manor-houses cluster, amongst 
 which Notiund is the most interest¬ 
 ing. 
 
 The railway leads through a hilly 
 country in about one hour to Hobro 
 (Moller’s Hotel), an old town of 
 2000 Inhab., 19 m. from Banders, but 
 entirely rebuilt after two great fires 
 in 1812 and 1813, at the head of the 
 long and narrow Mariagerfjord, sur¬ 
 rounded by very steep hills which 
 entirely conceal it till one is quite 
 near. The church is new, 1852, but 
 has an old font and a good carved altar 
 from 1699; by the church a Bunic 
 stone. There are pretty walks along 
 
 101 
 
 the fjord, but the best excursion is 
 to 
 
 Mariager, 8 m. east of Hobro on 
 the fjord (steamer daily; Bedder- 
 sens Hotel). This miniature town 
 owes its existence to a famous 
 Briggittine convent and monastery 
 founded about the year 1400 in this 
 pretty and secluded spot. But little 
 of the monastic buildings and only 
 a part of the church remain, and the 
 latter has suffered dreadfully from 
 alterations, particularly in 1788, but 
 the tall elegant pillars and pointed 
 windows, the old carved altar, &c., 
 will not fail to interest the lover of 
 architecture and antiquities. 
 
 Aalborg Stat. (Hotel Plionix; du 
 Nord, &c.), on the Limfjord, 31 m. 
 from Hobro, with 14,000 Inhab., is 
 not only an old town (coins were 
 struck here by king Hardekund, 
 1035-1042), but no other town in 
 Denmark Proper has to such an 
 extent preserved its ancient appear¬ 
 ance. Numerous narrow and steep 
 alleys and five small brooks traverse 
 the town, which consequently is rich 
 in old bridges and all kinds of 
 curious nooks and corners. Amongst 
 the private houses in the old style 
 the best is Jens Bangs Guard, built 
 1623, now a pharmacy, and the house 
 of King Hans, on the Gameltorv, 
 which is much older. It is reported 
 that the king died here in 1513. 
 Numerous interesting old fragments 
 may be found by strolling about the 
 town, particularly near the Osteraa. 
 There are now only two churches, of 
 which Yor Frueskirlce, built about 
 the year 1100, is the finest, the 
 tower rebuilt 1591. Observe the 
 Norman N. door restored 1869. The 
 font dates from 1619. The old 
 monastery of the Holy Ghost (1434) 
 is still used as a Hospital, and has 
 preserved many old features. There 
 is a small Historical Museum, foun¬ 
 ded in 1863 in the house next the 
 Cathedral School. 
 
 The Limfjord, which is here only 
 600 yards wide, does not really de- 
 
102 
 
 ROUTE 15. —EAST JUTLAND : NORRE SUNDBY. Denmark. 
 
 serve the name of a fjord in as far as 
 it is not a closed inlet of the sea. In 
 ancient times it was so, but since 
 1822 it has become really a sound, 
 50 m. long, connecting the North Sea 
 and the Kattegat and converting the 
 extreme North of Jutland into an 
 island. As late as the 11th cen¬ 
 tury this part consisted of several 
 islands, which a subsequent slow 
 upheaval of the soil united by trans¬ 
 forming the intervening sounds into 
 low meadow tracts. 
 
 This northern extremity of Jut¬ 
 land is in many respects very in¬ 
 teresting. For the eastern part— 
 which is called Vendsyssel, and whose 
 inhabitants, the Vendelboer, have 
 made themselves famous for their 
 obstinate love of liberty and their 
 dogged resistance to royal and eccle¬ 
 siastical power—Aalborg forms a 
 convenient starting-point. Those 
 who are pressed for time may con¬ 
 tent themselves with an excursion 
 to Skagen, or as our English sailors 
 have dubbed it the Shaw; but 
 several days may very pleasantly be 
 spent in exploring the country. The 
 rly. from Norre Sundby on the north¬ 
 ern shore of the Limfjord, opposite 
 Aalborg, to Frederikshavn on the 
 eastern coast via Hjorring is finished, 
 but from Frederikshavn to Skagen 
 the carriage-road must still be used. 
 If a more complete tour is intended, 
 the traveller should go by road from 
 Aalborg to Sseby and thence by 
 Frederikshavn to Skagen, and either 
 the same way back to Frederiks¬ 
 havn and by rail to Hjorring; from 
 whence he might either reach Aal¬ 
 borg by rail, and then visit Thyland 
 —the north-west corner of Jutland 
 —by steamer on the Limfjord, or 
 else proceed to Lolclcen on the shore 
 of the North Sea, and follow this as 
 far as Thisted, the principal town of 
 Thyland. We describe the more com¬ 
 plete tour, from which selection may 
 be made. 
 
 The Limfjord, between Aalborg 
 and Norre Sundby, was for a long 
 
 time crossed only by a pontoon 
 bridge, the rapidity of the current, 
 the depth of the water, the quality 
 of the soil and the violence of the 
 floating ice in spring, rendering the 
 construction of a permanent bridge 
 resting on piers a work of great 
 difficulty and expense. A perma¬ 
 nent bridge has lately been con¬ 
 structed, and the pontoon remains as 
 well. 
 
 From Norre Sundby two main 
 roads and a rly. start; the latter as 
 well as one of the roads to the north, 
 the other road in a westerly direc¬ 
 tion to Thisted. The highroad to 
 the north soon divides into two 
 branches, one proceeding straight 
 north to Hjorring , the other, which 
 we now have to notice, in a north¬ 
 easterly direction to Sxby (28 m.). 
 About 10 m. from Norre Sundby, 
 just before reaching the modest inn 
 of Hjallerup, the road crosses 
 
 Orum Moor , famous for the not 
 unfrequent appearance of a mirage 
 representing the church of Orum, 
 a couple of miles away, reflected in 
 a sea with wooded islands. The 
 centre and south-eastern part of 
 Vendsyssel is distinguished by a 
 range of hills with peculiar short 
 and abrupt outlines, and deep val¬ 
 leys of which the steep sides are 
 covered with rich wood, called “ den 
 jydske Aas.” The first spur of these, 
 the hills of Altrup, is passed be¬ 
 tween Norre Sundby and Hjallerup ; 
 one of the main ridges rises just 
 beyond Hjallerup, and is called 
 Allerupbanker. From a point close 
 to the highroad, where this crosses 
 the summit of the range, there is a 
 very fine view of the whole country, 
 and close by, to the rt., appears a 
 beautiful and characteristic wooded 
 tract called 
 
 Hronninglund Storslcov, which is 
 rich in fine walks and views. It has 
 its name from the neighbouring 
 manor of Hronninglund , formerly a 
 convent called Hundslund, first men¬ 
 tioned in 1268, but purchased in 
 
Denmark. 
 
 103 
 
 ROUTE 15 . —VOERGAARD ; L.®SO. 
 
 1690 by the wife of Christian V. 
 It subsequently belonged to the 
 Brigadier Hailing, who endeavoured 
 by a judicious selection of his 
 tenants of both sexes to improve the 
 race, traces of which are said to be 
 still evident. From several points 
 in the wood the manor-house, with 
 its two square towers, appears. 
 About 2 m. on, and 16 m. from 
 Noire Sundby, Flaunshjoldhro, a 
 very modest roadside inn where a 
 side road leads to the rt. to 
 
 Voergaard (2 m.), one of the finest 
 buildings in Denmark. This old 
 manor once belonged to the Bishops 
 of Borglum or Vendsyssel, but came 
 after the Keformation into the pos¬ 
 session of private owners, amongst 
 whom Ingeborg Shed, the wife of 
 Otto Banner, built the principal part 
 of the present (1588-1591) house, 
 though parts are older. It is of red 
 brick, ornamented with a profusion 
 of excellently wrought sandstone 
 sculptures, with spiral staircases, all 
 sorts of curious niches, and passages, 
 and a prison-cell, “ the Kosodont,” 
 concerning which such dreadful 
 ghost stories are told, that not even 
 the boldest miscreant will pass a 
 night there without confessing his 
 crimes. Numberless are the legends 
 told of the lady who built this hand¬ 
 some pile, and of the shifts to which 
 she was put in order to pay for the 
 erection of the structure; but for 
 these we have no space. In the 
 neighbouring Voer church, is a splen¬ 
 did monument erected by her order 
 for herself and her husband ; there 
 is also a fine carved altar. A small 
 river, Voersaa, flows towards the 
 Kattegat not far from Voergaard, 
 and after passing another manor- 
 house, called Rugtved, a modern 
 Gothic edifice, it winds through a 
 very narrow valley with fine beech- 
 trees along the side, whose tops 
 meet over the water, and one may 
 row a couple of miles under this 
 delightful canopy from Rugtved to 
 the sea. j 
 
 Beyond Flaunskjold the road from 
 Nbrre Sundby runs across the spurs 
 of Iydske Aas past some old unpre¬ 
 tending manors, corn-fields, and mea¬ 
 dows to Sceby (Inn: Harmonien), a 
 little borough of 1500 Inhab., on the 
 shores of the Kattegat, which owes, 
 if not its existence, at any rate its 
 prosperity, in the Middle Ages, to 
 the rich convent of Mariested founded 
 in 1469, of which now only the lofty 
 but narrow church, with a fine 
 carved altar, remains. A side chapel 
 with a huge central pier supporting 
 a handsome vaulted roof, is at pre¬ 
 sent walled off from the church, and 
 used as an engine-house. The town 
 has considerable fisheries, particu¬ 
 larly of turbot. 
 
 Opposite Sseby is the island of 
 Lseso (surrounded by dangerous 
 sandbanks), whose 3000 inhabitants 
 have preserved a handsome mediae¬ 
 val costume, but which otherwise 
 offers nothing of interest. The dis¬ 
 tance from Saeby is 14 m., and the 
 excursion at best a very rough one. 
 A post-boat goes from Frederiks- 
 havn, and there is a small Inn at 
 Byrum on the S. side of the island. 
 
 The neighbourhood of Saeby to 
 the W. and N. is very pretty; a 
 charming walk of a couple of miles 
 leads through a winding valley and 
 fine woods to Sseby guard, an ancient 
 manor with fine old buildings. Other 
 pretty points may be visited on the 
 way to Frederikshavn by choosing a 
 somewhat winding route further in¬ 
 land, instead of the ordinary high¬ 
 road which follows the sea-shore 
 (8 m.). The principal points should 
 be Oxenliede, Karup Kirhe, Thron- 
 havn, Understed Kirhe, Bosengaar- 
 den, Vrangbeeh, Studebahken (fine 
 view), Flade Kirhe, and Bcingsbo 
 Shov, all pretty and characteristic 
 specimens of Danish landscape- 
 beauty. 
 
 Frederikshavn (Inns: du Nord ; 
 Dania) was up to 1818 called Flad- 
 strand, and was 120 years ago merely 
 
104 
 
 KOTJTE 15. -EAST JUTLAND : SKAGEN. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 a fishing-village on the ground of the 
 manor of Kniveliolt, whose owner, in 
 1740, sold it to one of the inhabitants 
 for the sum of 440 1. sterling. It is now 
 a rising town of nearly 3000 Inhab., 
 but since 1864 it has ceased to be a 
 fortress. By the railroad from Aalborg 
 it is placed in direct communication 
 with the whole continent, and there is 
 a steamer in connection with the rly. 
 three times a week in 5 or 6 hrs. to 
 Gothenburg on the opposite Swedish 
 coast, besides steamers calling here 
 from Copenhagen for Christiania, 
 Arendal, and other Norwegian ports. 
 There is a harbour of refuge, which 
 is sought by hundreds of vessels at 
 a time during winter when naviga¬ 
 tion in the Kattegat is exceedingly 
 difficult and dangerous. Many of 
 the inhabitants obtain a livelihood 
 by the oyster fisheries carried on a 
 little N. of the town; the oysters, 
 commonly called Fladstrancl’s osters, 
 are very much appreciated in Den¬ 
 mark; they are much larger and 
 richer, but not so delicate as the 
 English natives. 
 
 Opposite Frederikshavn are the 
 islands of Hirtsholmene, which con¬ 
 sist of an enormous quantity of 
 boulders covered by a very thin 
 layer of earth. They are very dan¬ 
 gerous to navigation, and there is 
 a lighthouse, built in 1838, to warn 
 the vessels that approach them. 
 Their population consists mainly of 
 rabbits, of which there are countless 
 multitudes. 
 
 From Frederikshavn to Shagen the 
 distance is 22 m., chiefly a sandy and 
 heavy road. A few m. N. of Frede¬ 
 rikshavn the country becomes bare, 
 and vast moors extend in every di¬ 
 rection. A very peculiar formation 
 is here observed, consisting of so- 
 called Doppcr and Simmer — the 
 former being strips of meadow-land 
 20 to 40 ft. wide, sometimes a mile 
 or two long, running parallel with 
 the coast, but at a considerable dis¬ 
 tance from it, and separated from 
 each other by “ Kimmer,” sand ridges 
 
 10 to 16 ft. high and overgrown with 
 heather. Presently the road leads 
 through a large fishing - village, 
 Aalbeeh, opposite the oyster-banks in 
 Aalbsek Bay, and at the basis of the 
 promontory of the Skaw. From 
 Aalbsek on the Kattegat to the North 
 Sea shore the distance is 5 m., which 
 is gradually reduced to 2 at the 
 town of Skagen, about 12 m. in a 
 straight line from Aalbsek. The 
 whole promontory is covered with 
 drifting sand, forming ever-shifting 
 hills, and it is only where a little 
 brook affords the necessary moisture 
 that a verdant turf is produced. 
 
 The town of Skagen (Inn: C. 
 Brdndum) had formerly not incon¬ 
 siderable corn-fields, but all are buried 
 under the sand, as is also the old 
 Gothic church, of which only the 
 square tower is still visible. The 
 sand itself is not destitute of nutri¬ 
 ment for vegetation, and with the 
 aid of fish-manure very fair crops of 
 barley are raised; but the ground is 
 unstable, and a strong gale may 
 suddenly whirl up the sand and 
 destroy the vegetation. Nor do the 
 never-resting winds allow trees or 
 shrubs to grow unless tended with 
 especial care, such as have nursed 
 the small plantation near the resi¬ 
 dence of the Byfoged or principal 
 magistrate. Bound the cottages of 
 the fishermen nothing grows but 
 “ marehalm ” (Ehjmus arenarius), of 
 which the rigid stems and leaves 
 reach as high as the roof. 
 
 The history of Skagen is a history 
 of gales, and sand-drifts, and ship¬ 
 wreck, and its great events are such 
 as the drift of 1775, when the old 
 church was buried, or the gale of 
 “ little Christmas Eve,” as they say 
 in Denmark, meaning the evening 
 before Christmas Eve, 1825, when 
 50 richly laden merchantmen went 
 on shore, &c. Here is plenty of 
 work for the rocket apparatus and the 
 lifeboat; and many a tale of gallantry 
 —how often a mournful tale—is 
 found in the annals of Skagen. In 
 
105 
 
 Denmark, eoute 15 . —tveested ; bogglum kloster. 
 
 fhe wall of the new church, built in 
 1841, there is, for instance, a hand¬ 
 some basso-relievo by Poulsen, in 
 memory of the sad accident on the 
 27th Dec., 1862, when the lifeboat 
 was upset, in an attempt during a 
 furious gale to save the crew of the 
 Swedish brig Daphne; the whole 
 crew perished, but a public subscrip¬ 
 tion was opened, and 3500Z. were 
 collected for their seven widows and 
 their children, and Danes and Swedes 
 in London placed the tablet here 
 in memoriam. It is one of the 
 wildest and most desolate spots in 
 the world, yet within a couple of 
 hours’ journey from fertile, peaceful, 
 and idyllic rustic landscapes. 
 
 To the long straggling town of 
 Skagen the rly. will never penetrate; 
 for miles S. of it the only track along 
 which horses can draw a vehicle is 
 just along tbe edge of the sea, where 
 the water cements the sand into a 
 temporary firmness. Where the 
 small brooks which exist in this 
 sandy desert join the sea it is neces¬ 
 sary to turn right into the later and 
 round their mouth, because only a 
 small portion of their course is 
 above the sand and visible, their 
 main course is below the sand, 
 through which horse and carriage 
 would sink. At Skagen there is a 
 Lighthouse, erected 1859, of the first 
 order, replacing the old light now 
 used as a sea-mark, and a signal 
 station, through which passing ships 
 can communicate the fact of their 
 passage to their owners by fiag 
 signals, which are duly reported and 
 published. 
 
 The return to Aalborg may be 
 made by road as described to Fre- 
 derikshavn, and thence by rail via 
 Hjorring —a line which does not call 
 for further notice—or one may drive 
 to Hjorring by way of the western 
 coast of the promontory. In this 
 case one would follow the road or 
 track towards Frederikshavn as far 
 as Torreveire rencle, a brook sur¬ 
 rounded by a fresh green oasis, and 
 
 then cross from the E. to the W. 
 coast, where a similar oasis is found 
 at Kandestederne (salvage station). 
 In the neighbourhood of the latter 
 place the cliffs exhibit extensive 
 layers of Mart or v , a peculiar kind of 
 semi-fossil peat, and they are in many 
 places crowned by so-called Steen- 
 sletter, large spaces covered with 
 stones as firmly and closely joined as 
 if they had been paved with art. At 
 
 Tversted (very modest Inn), which 
 is just at the base of the promontory 
 of the Skaw, the road to Hjorring 
 turns inland, past the old manor- 
 house of Odden, built in the 14th 
 cent. The distance from Skagen to 
 Hjorring by this road is 32 in., and 
 as the horses hardly exceed a foot 
 pace, it is rather fatiguing, though 
 the peculiar character of the coun¬ 
 try prevents its being tedious. 
 
 From Hjorring (Hotel du Nord), 
 which does not offer any special 
 attraction to tourists, the road and 
 rly. to Nik re Sundby go almost in a 
 straight line past the old convent 
 of Vreilev (1. 8 m. from Hjorring). 
 Far more interesting is the round 
 by Loklcen and Blolchusene. Loltken 
 (Inn) is a small market borough 
 on the coast of the North Sea, about 
 10 m. S.W. of Hjorring, whose in¬ 
 habitants trade with Norway and 
 England. The streets are paved 
 with nothing but drifting sand. 
 
 Two miles inland is Borglum 
 Kloster, originally a royal residence, 
 and mentioned as such in 1086, 
 since 1128 a monastery, which at the 
 time of the Reformation had grown 
 very rich, and was the residence of 
 the Bishop of Vendsyssel, now in 
 private hands and judiciously res¬ 
 tored. The church, which served 
 as cathedral, is now a parish church, 
 and the exterior of the building 
 has still preserved its peculiar cha¬ 
 racter. Just outside is Baalhoi, an 
 eminence from which 44 churches 
 can be counted. The road leads 
 towards the S. through a number 
 of villages to llune Kirke (with a 
 
106 
 
 ROUTE 16 .-— WEST JUTLAND. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 Runic stone), from -whence a visit 
 may he paid to Blokhusene, a little 
 group of houses in green meadows 
 surrounded by sand-hills on the 
 shore of the sea, about 2 m. out of 
 the way. From Hune, the road 
 turns to the S.E. to Aaby, with a 
 good Inn. 
 
 Scarce 2 m. E. of Aaby is the 
 boundary of the Vildmose, an exten¬ 
 sive moor covering about 50 square 
 miles, and entirely impassable, as 
 the greater part of it has the cha¬ 
 racter of a quagmire. It appears 
 that at the bottom trees are stand¬ 
 ing erect, proving that it owes its 
 existence to a subsidence of the 
 ground, which is so much the more 
 remarkable, as otherwise the whole 
 of this country has been subjected 
 to an upheaval in historic times. 
 About 1 m. to the S.W. of Aaby is 
 the manor of Birkelse, with a beau¬ 
 tiful garden. Nearer Nbrre Sundby 
 the old moated manor - house of 
 Bodslet with buildings of the 16th 
 century is observed. The whole 
 distance, including the visit to Blok- 
 husene, is about 40 m. 
 
 ROUTE 16. 
 
 WEST JUTLAND. 
 
 The western division of the land 
 N. of the Limfjord consists of Thy- 
 land, which forms the N.W. corner 
 of the whole peninsula, and which 
 is best explored from Thisted (stat.), 
 the principal town, situated on an 
 arm of the fjord, and of the so- 
 called Eanherreder, a strip of land 
 between the Limfjord and the North 
 Sea, connecting Vendsyssel with 
 
 Thyland. Thisted may be reached 
 by road from Norre Sundby through 
 the Hanherreder, and the different 
 points of interest visited on the 
 road; but the better plan is to take 
 steamer from Aalborg to Aggersund, 
 which serves as a centre for the 
 Hanherreder. and from thence again 
 steamer to Thisted. Or it may be 
 visited from the S. by rail from Struer. 
 
 A reference to the map will show 
 that the West Jutland rly. branches 
 off from the E. coast rly. at Kolding, 
 with a second S. branch to Bibe, and 
 a W. terminus at Esbjerg. Thence 
 it proceeds N. to Varde, Tarm, 
 Shjern (branch E. to Herning, Silke- 
 borg, and Skanderborg, Rte. 15); 
 Bingkoping, Ulfborg, Vemb, and 
 Lemvig. FromVemb a branch due 
 W. leads to Holstebro, and Struer; 
 and from the latter a W. branch to 
 Skive, Viborg, and Banders; while 
 the N. continuation goes to Odde- 
 sund, Bedsted, and Thisted. 
 
 The Limfjord, which at Aalborg 
 has a width of 600 yards, and on 
 the whole course from its mouth at 
 Hals, on the Kattegat, to Aalborg 
 a distance of 17 m., scarcely ever 
 exceeds a mile in width, widens 
 almost at once W. of Aalborg into a 
 so-called Breding, viz., Nibe Bred- 
 ing, containing a number of small 
 islands and 3 larger ones, Eegholm, 
 G-jolland, and Oland. The latter is 
 rich in beautiful timber, and will be 
 noticed below. The Breding has its 
 name from the little town of Nibe 
 (Inn, Thorup’s H.) on the southern 
 shore, where the steamer stops. 
 Farther W. the fjord again becomes 
 narrower, the width being reduced 
 to 300 yards at Aggersund, where a 
 ferry is established. 
 
 On the southern shore is Logstor 
 (Hotel du Nord, Limfjorden), anew 
 place of 1500 Inhab., which no 
 doubt soon will become an important 
 town. The navigation of the Fjord 
 is very difficult here on account of 
 sand-banks, and a canal has there¬ 
 fore been cut about 2\ m. long, 
 
Denmark. 
 
 107 
 
 KOUTE 16 . —OLAND ; BULBJERG. 
 
 whereby these are avoided. From 
 Logstor a visit may he paid to 
 Sailing church (4 m.), a beautiful 
 granite church of the 12th century, 
 with nave and 2 aisles, each with an 
 apse, &c. If, however, the object is 
 the exploration of the land N. of the 
 Limtjord, the traveller ought to stop 
 at or return to Aggersund inn (ferry 
 across from Logstor), on the N. side 
 of the fjord, near the still-visible site 
 of Aggersborg, an old Royal resi¬ 
 dence. 
 
 From Aggersund three excursions 
 may be recommended to Oland, to 
 Svinklov , which may be partly united, 
 and to Bulbjerg. ' 
 
 The road to Oland, which is the 
 same going and coming, leads toward 
 the east through the village of 
 Beistrup, from which the fine crom¬ 
 lechs at Gundelstrup may be visited, 
 and Haverslev to Kokkedal , a beauti¬ 
 ful old manor-house in a charming 
 situation, then past Bratskov, another 
 old manor-house, and Brovst church, 
 with a very fine altar-picture and 
 some beautiful old vestments, to a 
 little hamlet called Oxeby, whence a 
 road leads to Oland. The sound is 
 very shallow, and in most places a 
 man can wade over; in 1857 a 
 labourer in doing so felt something 
 heavy round his ancle, which turned 
 out to be a massive gold ring, worth 
 130Z.; which is now in the Museum of 
 Northern Antiquities in Copenhagen. 
 According to tradition, a naval battle 
 was fought here in very remote 
 times. The manor-house of Oxholm 
 was formerly a convent, dating from 
 the 12th cent., called Okloster, and 
 the church is still tolerably well 
 preserved in its original state; it is 
 of very fine proportions. The woods 
 (nearly 1000 acres) are delightful, 
 but it is necessary to bring pro¬ 
 visions, as there is no inn, although 
 there are two large villages. 
 
 To Svinklov, a very remarkable 
 and picturesque chain of chalk-hills 
 on the north coast, the road goes 
 by Skjxrpingegaard with a fine 
 
 Jxttestue, and the very old manor of 
 Aagaard, with numerous barrows, 
 old camps, &c., which abound in the 
 whole of this tract. Near Aagaard 
 is St. Jorgensbjerg, where a great 
 battle in 1442 was fought between 
 the ever rebellious peasants and 
 king Christopher, in which the latter 
 was victorious, mainly because the 
 men from Thyland and Mors de¬ 
 serted their comrades the Yendel- 
 boers. An old ballad describing the 
 event is still preserved, and to this 
 day the latter taunt the traitors with 
 their conduct on that occasion. Close 
 by is Fjerridslev village, with an 
 Inn, whence the road leads to 
 Hjortsdal village just inside the 
 hills. From the top of these fine 
 views of the Jammerbugt , a bay of 
 the sea whose name, meaning the 
 Bay of Woe, is not inappropriate, 
 inasmuch as numerous wrecks 
 stretching their black ribs out of 
 the sand tell a mournful tale of 
 frequent disaster. To the east of 
 the cliff is a village called Lerup, 
 where the carriage should be left 
 in order to explore on foot the 
 Fossedal, a deep and picturesque 
 valley. Through another valley 
 called Langdalen we return to 
 Lerup, and thence to Aggersund 
 past Bratskov and Kokkedal (see 
 above). The excursion occupies 
 the whole day, but repays the 
 traveller. 
 
 Bulbjerg is a similar cliff to 
 Svinklov, and about 12 miles further 
 west; in front of the cliff is Ska- 
 reklit, an isolated rock 60 feet high, 
 round which the sea rushes foaming 
 and thundering, whenever the wind 
 is high. The distance from Agger¬ 
 sund is about 17 miles, and there 
 are two roads, the ordinary high¬ 
 road and a side road along a new 
 dyke which has been thrown across 
 Bygholm Veile, a shallow inlet, 
 formerly a sound connecting the 
 Limfjord with the North Sea, but 
 which is now being laid dry. In any 
 case, it is convenient to stop at 
 
108 ROUTE 16.— WEST JUTLAND 
 
 Bjergets Kro, an inn about 2 m. from 
 Bulbjerg, and leave the horses there. 
 
 West of Lbgstbr the Limfjord 
 widens considerably, formingLogstor 
 or Liv Breding. From this Breding 
 Bygholms Yeile stretches far away 
 to the north, almost reaching the 
 North Sea, to the south are seen the 
 high clifts of the island of Fuur. To 
 the east of Fuur a branch of the sea 
 penetrates southward about 15 miles 
 into the land as far as Skive; to the 
 west of Fuur, Sallingsund, which in 
 part is very narrow, separates the 
 peninsula of Sailing, behind Fuur 
 and formerly itself an island, from 
 the island of MorsS , which bounds 
 Logstor Breding to the west. Morso 
 is bounded to the north and west by 
 Faeggesund, Thisted Breding, Vils- 
 sund, and Visby Breding; which 
 latter unites with Sallingsund, south 
 of Morso, forming Kaas Bredning 
 and Vend Bugt. From Venobugt 
 the Otliesund leads into Nissum 
 Bredning, which again is connected 
 with the North Sea by the Agger 
 Canal. These alternating sounds 
 and Brednings give to the Limfjord 
 a very peculiar character, and the 
 whole country bears the most un¬ 
 mistakable stamp of being, as it 
 were, only half emerged from the 
 sea. The cliffs at Fuur, Morso, &c., 
 consist of Moleer, apparently a kind 
 of clay, but entirely consisting of 
 the shells of Diatomacese. The 
 steamer crosses the Logstor Bred¬ 
 ning in a straight line from Logstor 
 Bredning to Fseggesund, and soon 
 readies 
 
 Thisted Stat. (Hotel Aalborg), 
 prettily situated on the northern 
 shore of Thisted Bredning, a rising 
 town of 3800 inhabitants, parti¬ 
 cularly since the formation of the 
 Agger Canal , in 1825, again opened 
 communication with the North Sea. 
 The church is handsome, with fine 
 altarpiece and pulpit. 
 
 Three miles from Thisted is the 
 village and church of Sjorring, stat., 
 with a remarkable monument said 
 
 ; vestervigkloster. Denmark. 
 
 to be of Bishop Magnus of Bdrglum, 
 drowned near Thorup on the way 
 from Bremen in 1065. Quite close 
 by is Sjorring void, the remains of 
 an ancient Loyal castle. A large 
 lake, formerly an inlet from the sea, 
 and afterwards artificially kept in 
 open communication with the sea, 
 formerly washed the foot of hills, 
 but has now been laid dry, and con¬ 
 verted into grazing land of amazing 
 fertility. Everywhere barrows, dol¬ 
 mens, old camps, and fortifications 
 meet the eye, and many of the old 
 Danish ballads refer to this neigh¬ 
 bourhood. 
 
 About twenty miles south of 
 Thisted was Vestervigkloster, one of 
 the most remarkable ecclesiastical 
 institutions in Denmark, founded in 
 1110, of which now only the church 
 remains, an imposing structure (200 
 feet long) built of granite. We men¬ 
 tion particularly several sculptured, 
 stones, of which one doubtless repre¬ 
 sents the patron saint of the monas¬ 
 tery, St. Thiiger. In the churchyard 
 is a huge tombstone with two crosses 
 and a marginal inscription in very 
 old character, now illegible. Tradi¬ 
 tion, however, says that under it 
 rest the sister of King Yaldemar I., 
 called Liden Kirstin in the ballads, 
 and her lover, Prince Buris, who 
 seduced her. The king killed his 
 unhappy sister, and the Prince was 
 cruelly tortured and imprisoned for 
 life; but they were eventually, ac¬ 
 cording to the ballad, buried in one 
 grave. The sepulchre in question 
 is really double, and contains the 
 bones of a man and a woman. 
 
 Vestervig is well worth a visit, 
 and there is a tolerably good Inn; 
 there is a daily mail to and from 
 Thisted, which conveys passengers. 
 Three miles south of Vestervig is 
 Agger Canal. The last Bredning of 
 the Limfjord, Nissum Bredning, is 
 separated from the North Sea by a 
 narrow strip of land, through which 
 the sea from time to time forms 
 openings, which again close up. It 
 
Denmark. 
 
 109 
 
 ROUTE 16 . —hanstholm; morso. 
 
 is certain that the communication 
 was open in the 11th century, because 
 it was through this that St. Ivanut 
 intended to sail with the large fleet 
 which he had collected with a view 
 of landing in England and wresting 
 its Crown from William the Con¬ 
 queror, when the latter by means of 
 bribery frustrated the plan. But 
 Saxo Grammaticus, who wrote about 
 the year 1200, says that at that time 
 there was no outlet. The present 
 opening was made in a tremendous 
 gale, accompanied by a high tide, 
 on the 3rd of Feb., 1825, and the 
 channel then formed is still open. 
 The protecting sand-hills were de¬ 
 stroyed at the same time, and the 
 sea is constantly encroaching here. 
 Already 3 villages have by degrees 
 been swallowed by the waves, and 
 the place where the church of Agger 
 stood is now far in the sea. 
 
 An excursion to Hanstholm and 
 Hansted Fyr, on the north-west 
 corner of Jutland (14 miles), affords 
 a very striking illustration of the 
 peculiar characteristics of the coun¬ 
 try—everywhere isolated groups of 
 hills are surrounded by level mea¬ 
 dows, evidently old arms of the sea, 
 and the local names confirm in the 
 most unmistakable manner the belief 
 that Thyland was in the Middle 
 Ages an archipelago. A frequent 
 phenomenon here is the so-called 
 Jordfalcl, when the ground suddenly 
 gives way and falling in forms a 
 sort of caldron. It is here and in 
 the island of Morso close by, that 
 earthquakes are felt more than in 
 any other part of Denmark, and the 
 geological strata bear witness of 
 violent revolutions. 
 
 The island of Morso is best ex¬ 
 plored from Nylcjobing (Bendix’s 
 Hotel) on the east coast, which is 
 reached by steamers from towns on 
 the fjord and by road from Thisted, 
 crossing Vilssund (see above) about 
 8 miles south of Thisted by ferry. 
 'The distance between the two towns 
 is about 18 miles. The northern ex¬ 
 
 tremity of the island is called 
 Fxggeldit and presents an imposing 
 cliff when seen from Freggesund. 
 The name is derived from a mythical 
 King Fengo, or Fegge, who killed 
 his own brother Haavdevendel , with 
 whom he shared the dominion, and 
 married his widow. But the mur¬ 
 dered king’s son, Hamlet, avenged 
 the deed by killing Fengo; and this 
 is one of the several local traditions 
 in Denmark which form the sub¬ 
 stratum of Saxo’s story, which after¬ 
 wards served Shakespeare for a 
 theme. The place of Fegge’s castle 
 and his grave are shown. Of such 
 old camps or fortified places, there 
 is a very great number on the island. 
 
 Whilst the eastern part of Jutland 
 abounds in fine manor-houses of the 
 16th century and older, those in 
 Thyland and Morso have mostly 
 disappeared. A very interesting 
 exception is Hoiriis, 4 miles south 
 of Nykjbbing, which is not only very 
 old but in good repair. There is a 
 very fine banqueting-hall, and as the 
 moats are full of water, and the new 
 buildings kept in the old style, the 
 mediaeval character is well preserved. 
 An old tradition says that once on a 
 time the lord of Hoiriis discovered 
 a criminal connection between his 
 wife and some friend; he ordered 
 her to be immured in the castle, 
 and the faithless friend to be 
 drowned in the moat. This old 
 legend has by accident been verified; 
 for some time ago a part of the wall 
 between two windows in the hall 
 fell down and disclosed a cell in the 
 thickness of the wall lined with oak 
 timber, and containing a female 
 skeleton; and that of a man was 
 soon after found in the moat. The 
 pretty church of Lierslev contains 
 splendid monuments to the memory 
 of former owners of Hoiriis. Be¬ 
 tween Nykjbbing and Hoiriis, about 
 3 miles from the former, is a ferry 
 across Sailing Sund, and from the 
 opposite side a drive of 15 miles 
 through Sailing, one of the most 
 
110 
 
 BOUTE 16.-—WEST JUTLAND : VIBORG. 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 fertile parts of Jutland, leads to 
 Skive, on the railway from Langaa 
 to Holstebro, connecting the east 
 and west coasts of the Peninsula. 
 
 The most interesting point in Sai¬ 
 ling is the manor-house of Spottrup, 
 10 m. W. of Skive (carriage 8 to 
 10 kr.), near the Sound, which 
 divides Sailing from Morso, but not 
 easily visited from Morso, because 
 the nearest ferry (Ny Molleferry) 
 does not convey carriages and horses. 
 It may be visited on the road from 
 Nykjobing to Skive, if one has 
 started early from Nykjobing, as it 
 is quite 9 m. out of the way. This 
 old manor-house, built in the lGth 
 century, with double moats, &c., 
 is perhaps the best specimen in. 
 Denmark of a fortified nobleman’s 
 seat of the Middle Ages; but it is 
 unfortunately in a somewhat dilapi¬ 
 dated state. 
 
 From Skive (Holger Gluds H.), a 
 little town of 2500 inhabitants, 
 prettily situated, one may either 
 proceed by railway eastwards to 
 Viborg, and thence via Langaa to 
 Aarhuus, thus concluding the tour 
 of Jutland ; or one may, after visit¬ 
 ing Viborg, return to Skive and 
 proceed westwards by train to Hol¬ 
 stebro on the Storaa, a river flowing 
 into the North Sea, and thence visit 
 Eingkjdbing, Varde, Esbjergl&ni Elbe 
 on the W. coast. These are all sta¬ 
 tions on the railway. The only very 
 interesting point of these is Elbe, 
 which may be visited just as easily 
 from Holding or Haderslev by rail¬ 
 way. 
 
 Viborg Stat. (Preisler’s H.) is one 
 of the oldest and most remarkable 
 towns in Denmark. 7000 inhabitants. 
 It was the capital of Jutland, the prin¬ 
 cipal seat of national worship(Vebjerg 
 is “ the sacred hill ”), the place where 
 the national assemblies were held, 
 kings elected, laws given, ages before 
 the era of written history, properly 
 so speaking. The first Danish coins 
 were struck here, and here the Re¬ 
 
 formation in Denmark took its be¬ 
 ginning. No town in Denmark is so 
 intimately connected with the his¬ 
 tory of the Danish realm through 
 the whole of the Middle Ages. It 
 has now lost its ancient splendour, 
 and the population has diminished. 
 Only two churches out of twelve 
 remain, of which one, Sonder- 
 sogns kirke, formerly belonged to a 
 Dominican monastery, and dates 
 partly from 1230, but rebuilt in 
 1728 after a fire. It possesses a 
 very fine altar, originally at Frede- 
 riksborg, and of the 15th cent.; the 
 other is 
 
 The Cathedral, which deserves 
 the special attention of lovers of ar¬ 
 chitecture. This church, 226 ft. long 
 98 ft. wide, was founded in the early 
 art of the 11th century, but rebuilt 
 etween 1130 and 1170. Some years 
 ago it was found to be in so bad a 
 state of repair, owing to frequent fires 
 which had weakened the roof and 
 caused the stones to crack, that it had 
 to be closed, but thanks to the libe¬ 
 rality of Parliament and plentiful pri¬ 
 vate subscriptions, a sum of 35.000L 
 was raised for its restoration (com¬ 
 pleted 1873), though funds to restore 
 the internal decorations are still want¬ 
 ing. The old cli. was of hewn granite, 
 and the restoration was carried on 
 in such a manner, that stone by 
 stone was taken down, and returned 
 to its proper place after being 
 cleaned—unless faulty or unsafe, 
 when new stones were substituted; 
 mutilated ornaments repaired, win¬ 
 dows which had been walled up 
 opened, &c. The ch. is cruciform, 
 with exquisite circular E. apse, 
 with exterior open gallery, and the 
 style is purely Norman, or, as it 
 is called here, Byzantinenothing 
 but round arches, with a timber roof 
 over the nave. The chancel is raised, 
 and under it is the very interesting 
 crypt, untouched since it was built. 
 When finished it will be one of the 
 finest specimens of Norman archi¬ 
 tecture on the continent. The 
 
Denmark. 
 
 1L1 
 
 KOUTE 16.—hald; ringkjobing. 
 
 frequent fires and restorations have 
 destroyed almost everything in the 
 way of monuments and church fur¬ 
 niture, but the tomb of King Erik 
 Clipping, murdered in the neigh¬ 
 bouring village of Finderup 1286, 
 by Marsk Stig, was only partially 
 damaged by the fire of 1726. For 
 more than four centuries after that 
 deed, a special service called Vaade- 
 sangen, “ the song of woe,” was per¬ 
 formed daily in the crypt. One of 
 the few remaining relics is a coloured 
 seven-armed candelabrum, which ori¬ 
 ginally came from Liibeck 1494. It 
 is 9 feet high, of brass, and rests on 
 3 lions. 
 
 There is a small but interesting 
 museum of Northern Antiquities in 
 the town. 
 
 A beautiful excursion from Yiborg 
 is to Hald, 6 m. distant (6 to 8 kr. 
 for a carriage). The drive goes first 
 across open heath, formerly, and pro¬ 
 bably as late as the beginning of last 
 century, dense forest, of which re¬ 
 mains are still in existence round 
 the Lake of Hald, one of the most 
 beautiful spots in Denmark. The 
 castle of Hald is a classic locality in 
 mediaeval Danish history, and num¬ 
 berless ballads and legends refer to 
 it; but of the old buildings only ruins 
 are now left. Since 1868, in June 
 and July, the heath near this 
 lake has been regularly used for 
 camps, where several thousand 
 men are brought together at a time 
 for military manoeuvres. At that 
 time everything is life and bustle, 
 and the long array of white tents on 
 the brown heath make quite a picture. 
 Beyond the smiling environs of Hald, 
 the Ahlhede, the most desolate tract 
 in Jutland, spreads far and wide, and 
 from some of the hills, particularly 
 Dollerup bakker, there are highly in¬ 
 teresting and characteristic views. 
 
 From Skive to Holstebro by way 
 of Struer Stat. (Schou’s Inn), a land¬ 
 ing-place on the Limfjord (oyster- 
 fisheries), is a distance of 27 m. by 
 rail. The journey offers nothing very 
 
 remarkable except the granite church 
 at Sal, near the station of Vanderup, 
 with a fine old font and a beau¬ 
 tiful altar in basso-relievo, of gilt 
 copper like those of Gist, Lis- 
 berg, &c., but better preserved—• 
 Hieing church, 3 m. N. from Vin- 
 derup, from the 12th or 13th cen¬ 
 tury; Rydhave manor, fine 16th- 
 cent. buildings and garden, 1 m. 
 from Yinderup. 
 
 Holstebro Stat. (Schaumburg’s H.). 
 IS m. N.W. of Holstebro is Lemvig 
 Stat. (Jespersen’s H.), 2000 Inhab., 
 on the southern shore of Nissum. 
 Bredning, from which an excursion 
 may be made to Bovbjerg, a cliff 
 192 ft. in height, similar to those 
 noticed above to Svinkldv, Bul- 
 bjerg, &c. 
 
 Close to Lemvig, on the road to 
 Ringkjobing, is the very interesting 
 old granite church of Ronib. The 
 direct road from Holstebro to Ring¬ 
 kjobing has first a westerly direction, 
 and then joins the road from Lemvig 
 to Ringkjobing, not far from the 
 old and interesting manor of Norre 
 Vosborg. Nearer Ringkjobing are the 
 two equally interesting old granite 
 churches of Staby (side road at 
 TJlfkjxr kro, a decent roadside inn), 
 and Hee close to the road, and near 
 the large Stadilfjord, which is now 
 being reclaimed by an English com¬ 
 pany. 
 
 Ringkjobing Stat. {Inn: Ringkjo- 
 bing H., Station H.) is a very modest 
 little borough of 2000 inhabitants at 
 the N.E. corner of Ringkjobing fjord, 
 which has the appearance of a lake 
 separated from the sea by a narrow 
 strip of land, like the one which 
 separates Nissum Bredning and Nis¬ 
 sum fjord from the sea, and like these 
 perforated by a narrow channel 
 which is constantly changing its 
 position. In the southern part of 
 this fjord fertile marshes are in the 
 process of formation. 
 
 A postal road goes in a straight 
 line eastwards from Ringkjobing to 
 Herning, and thence by railway to 
 
112 
 
 route 1G. —west jutlane: RiBE. Denmark. 
 
 Silkeborg, across a flat and treeless 
 country. 
 
 Varde Stat. (Lasson’s H. ; Dania 
 H.) The original name of Varde 
 was Warwith, and it is mentioned as 
 early as the 12th century, but there 
 are no historical relics of any kind. 
 Pop. 2800. The neighbourhood is 
 flat and treeless, as, indeed, the 
 western part of Jutland generally is. 
 
 An interesting excursion by rail 
 may, however, be made from here to 
 Esbjerg Stat. (Spangsberg’s Hotel), 
 about 8 m. S. of Varde, where a new 
 and large harbour is being built, in 
 order to accommodate the export 
 trade of agricultural produce to 
 England, and where a town is already 
 coming into existence, which will 
 be connected with the fertile 
 parts of Eastern Jutland by means 
 of a railway. 
 
 Half an hour’s sail from Esbjerg 
 is Fund (Alexandersen’s PI. at 
 Nordby, the principal village), the 
 northernmost of that series of islands 
 which gird the coast of South Jut¬ 
 land. The women of Fand do all 
 the work on shore, plough and reap, 
 whilst the men are away on the sea; 
 they have a pretty costume, and wear 
 masks to protect them against the 
 sun during their hard work. The 
 Fanomen build and own a propor¬ 
 tionally considerable number of ships. 
 Near the S. end is a Fuglelcoje, like 
 those on the Frisian islands (see 
 Ete. 7). 
 
 Ilibe. Railway from Folding on 
 the E., or from Esbjerg on the W., 
 by way of Bramminge to 
 
 Ribe (Klubben’s H., best; Greisen’s 
 H., opposite the cathedral, cheaper), 
 or Ripen, now the southernmost town 
 in Denmark, is 26 m. from Varde 
 '(diligence daily), and is often men¬ 
 tioned in Danish history (pop. 3700). 
 A royal castle existed here from the 
 12th to the 16th century, but now 
 even the ruins have disappeared, 
 only the ramparts and moats are left. 
 Ribe was also one of the earliest 
 centres of Christianity in Denmark. 
 
 The first church was built here 
 in the 9th century, and was the 
 second church built in Denmark; 
 the first being that' of Schleswig, 
 then generally called Hedeby. 
 Ribe was at that time a flourishing 
 commercial town, and the “Jydske 
 Lov ” was printed here in 1504 for 
 the first time in Danish. It re¬ 
 mained a wealthy and important 
 place during the whole of the Middle 
 Ages; but inundations, fire, war, 
 pestilence, and now lately the sepa¬ 
 ration of Schleswig from Denmark, 
 have well nigh destroyed the town. 
 
 The Cathedral , one of the most in¬ 
 teresting in the N., was commenced 
 in 1117, and constructed with stone, 
 in part of volcanic tuff, from the 
 neighbourhood of Andernach on the 
 Rhine. In style it also reminds 
 one forcibly of the contemporaneous 
 buildings in that part of Europe. 
 Numerous village churches in the 
 neighbourhood have been built in 
 imitation of it, both as to style and 
 material. It has, however, suffered 
 by later additions and restorations. 
 The nave and the aisles are in pure 
 Norman style, the 2 outer aisles 
 have slightly pointed arches. The 
 apse, the doorways (sculptures in 
 granite), and the columns of the 
 gallery and the great cupola are 
 particularly interesting. The spire 
 fell down long ago, but there is 
 an extensive view over the sur¬ 
 rounding flats from the square tower 
 155 ft. high. 
 
 The church of St. Catherine was 
 part of aDominican monastery, which 
 is now used as an hospital; the 
 cloisters are walled up. The epis¬ 
 copal residence and the town-hall are 
 interesting relics of the 15th century. 
 
 From Ribe the duchy of Schleswig 
 is entered either by the road along 
 the W. coast to Tonder, or by the 
 road S.E. to Voyens (diligence daily), 
 the junction station for Haderslev, 
 on the eastern railway, or by taking 
 the train to Kolding, and thence the 
 main line via Vamdrup. 
 
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SECTION II. 
 
 ICELAND. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. 
 
 SECT. PAGE 
 
 1. Money, Measures, Weights .113 
 
 2. Passport, Custom House .114 
 
 3. Means of Communication, Steamers. 114 
 
 4. Climate—Time for Visit .115 
 
 5. Travelling in the Interior—Ponies, Guides .116 
 
 6. Outfit: Clothing, Boots, Waterproofs, Tents, Boxes, Provisions, 
 
 Guns, Fishing-tackle, Sundries.117 
 
 7. Cost of Travelling.119 
 
 8. Farmhouses, Inns, and other Accommodation .120 
 
 9. Books and Maps—Variation of the Compass.121 
 
 10. Historical Notice. 122 
 
 11. Language and Literature.124 
 
 12. Statistics .125 
 
 13. Physical Geography and Geology .127 
 
 14. Shooting, Fishing, Geologising and Exploration.128 
 
 15. Skeleton Tours .130 
 
 Routes. 
 
 Haute 1.—Leith to Reykjavik, touching at the Faroe Islands .. ,. 132 
 
 Route 2.—Reykjavik, Thingvellir, Geysirs, Hekla .134 
 
 Route 3.—Krisuvik and the S.W. Peninsula.139 
 
 Route 4.—Across Iceland from Akureyri to Reykjavik.141 
 
 Route 5.—North-eastern Iceland and Askja.143 
 
 Route 6.—The Sneefells Jokull and N.W. Peninsula .147 
 
 Other Routes .148 
 
 1.—Money, Measures, Weights. 
 
 The Danish Coinage, weights and measures are used throughout 
 Iceland (v. p. 2). The Danish paper money will not be taken in the 
 [Denmarl; ,~\ I 
 
114 
 
 § 2. passport—§ 3. steamers. Sect. II. 
 
 interior. Silver can be bought in Reykjavik with a loss of about 5 per 
 cent., but it is better to be provided with several pounds worth of two I 
 kroner pieces on landing. English gold will be taken at a high 
 discount by some of the Reykjavik merchants. 18 kroner = 1Z. sterling. 
 (Note that 2 kroner are equal to the old rigsdollar, 2s. 3d.). The only 
 measure of length peculiar to Iceland is the Thingmanna-letfS, or 
 Journey of the ThiDg(Parliament)-man, equal to about twenty 
 English statute miles. 
 
 2.— Passport. Custom House. 
 
 Passports are not required for British subjects travelling in Iceland. 
 There is no examination of baggage on landing. 
 
 3.—Means of Communication. Steamers. 
 
 There are two lines of communication between Iceland and the rest 
 of Europe. 
 
 The Royal Danish Mail Steam Ships make eleven voyages yearly 
 between Copenhagen and Reykjavik, usually returning from 8 to 10 
 days later. The voyage lasts 12 days in ordinary weather. Sometimes 
 the steamers stop only at Leith, and Thorshavn, the capital of the 
 Faroe islands; at other times they go round Iceland, touching at 
 Eskifjord, Seydisfjord, Vopnafjord, Husavik, Eyjafjord, Siglufjord 
 Saudakrog, Skagestrand, Isafjord, (Enundsfjord, Dyrefjord, Arnefjord, 
 Ratriksfjord, Flatey, Stykkisholmr, and Reykjavik ; and in returning 
 take some of these places in the reverse order ; that is, in going they i 
 sail round the E., N., and W. sides of the island from E. to W. and in 
 returning from W to E. ( Vide red line on map). There is no port on 
 the S. Coast, nor is it penetrated by a single fiord. In 1882 the dates 
 of departure of the steamers from Copenhagen were—March 1st, April 
 15th, May 5th and 27th, June 16th, July 2nd, 19th and 31st, August 
 28th, September 29th, and November 9th. These vary but slightly 
 from year to year. Sometimes, as in 1882, the Arctic ice drifts south¬ 
 ward to such an extent that the northern ports are inaccessible. An 
 occasional call is made at the Westmann Islands. 
 
 The fares between Copenhagen and the Faroe Islands are—1st 
 cabin, 41., single, 11. 5s. return; and between Copenhagen and. Iceland, 
 
 51. single, and 9 1. return. Between Leith and Iceland, 51. single, 8/. 
 return. 
 
 Passengers may carry 100 lbs. of luggage free. Provisions on board. 
 
Iceland. 
 
 § 4. climate. 115 
 
 without wine and beer, 4s. Qd. daily. Information as to times of 
 sailing &c., may be obtained from Messrs Geo. V. Turnbull and Co., 
 Leith. 
 
 The Leith and Iceland Steam shipping Company usually makes 5 
 or 6 voyages in the year, in connection with the trade in ponies and 
 sheep. In 1882 the departures from Granton were made on June 20th, 
 July 6th and 21st, August 10th and 26th. The voyage to 
 Reykjavik, if direct, takes 4 days in fair weather ; hut if the route is by 
 the E. side of the island and northern ports are touched at, it may he 
 extended to 9 or 10 days. Three of the 5 voyages are made to 
 Reykjavik direct; the others by way of Husavik and the hi. coast. 
 Sometimes several voyages are made in September and October to the 
 N. and E. coasts. The fares—are 1st cabin, 51. single, and 81. 
 return, available for the season. Provisions on hoard, exclusive of wine 
 and beer, 6s. a day. Information as to times of sailing, &c., may be 
 obtained of Messrs R. and D. Slimon, 41, Shore, Leith. 
 
 4.—Climate. Time for Visit. 
 
 There has been much discussion as to whether the Gulf Stream 
 washes the S.-W. coasts of Iceland; at all events the climate is, as 
 a rule, far less rigorous than one might suppose from the latitude. The 
 mean temperature at Akureyri is 32° F.; mean of the summer, 45° F.; 
 and of the winter, 20° F. At Reykjavik the annual mean is 39° F.; of 
 the summer, 53° F.; and of the winter, 29° F. At Stykkisholmr, in the 
 middle of the W. coast (N. Lat. 65° 4' 44"), observations were taken 
 for 26 years (1845-1871), and the highest January mean was 38° F.; 
 and the highest July mean was 53° *1 ; while the lowest January mean 
 was 17‘2°, and the lowest July mean was 44’2° F. The mean of the 26 
 years was 37° F.; hut in 1866 it fell as low as 29*7° F. During that 
 year Spitzbergen ice surrounded the island on the N. and N.-E. coast 
 from January till September, and its influence was felt in a depression 
 of the mean annual temperature to the extent of 7‘3° F. The mean 
 barometric pressure was 29 , 602°. Average rainfall, 26'81 inches. 
 Amount of melted snow, 7'43 feet, as a mean of twelve years, and 
 the snowy days averaged 82 per annum. The severest snowfall 
 occurred in 1868, when it began on January 15th and lasted till the 
 end of March. Fogs are common on elevated ground, and among the 
 southern hills (as at Krisuvik) a great deal of rain falls. Snowstorms 
 of long duration and gales are not infrequent during winter. 
 Thunderstorms occur in winter, and the Aurora Borealis is often 
 visible. In summer the air is often marvellously clear, so that 
 
 i 2 
 
116 § 5. TRAVELLING IN INTERIOR, ETC. Sect. II. 
 
 distant objects are seen with extreme distinctness. The air is very- 
 pure and invigorating. 
 
 July and August are the best months for visiting Iceland. Extreme 
 limits should be between June 21st and September 21st. 
 
 5.—Travelling in the Interior. Ponies. Guides. 
 
 The interior of Iceland is a table-land sloping towards the N. and S., 
 with a mean height of nearly 2000 feet. There are vast stretches of 
 volcanic sand, lava fields, and rugged desert tracts. Mountains and 
 ice-hills (jokulls ) often stand out from these wildernesses. There are 
 scarcely any roads, properly so called, and consequently no wheeled 
 vehicles. In the fjords leaky boats are the means of conveyance; 
 and for all inland purposes of traffic, and travel, small hardy ponies of 
 the Dartmoor or Shetland type are employed. Pony tracks traverse 
 the island in many directions. A pony will carry a burden of about 
 200 lbs. 25 miles a day; and a traveller with two good ponies can 
 make from 35 to 40 miles a day. If a tour is to extend over a month 
 it is better to buy ponies. Pack-ponies cost 41. a piece and riding 
 ponies 71. to 81. They can be sold again, at a considerable reduc¬ 
 tion, on returning to the place from which they were taken (usually 
 Reykjavik or Akureyri). If, on the other hand, the tour is for less 
 than a month, ponies may be hired at 2 krs. (2s. 3d) a day, and in 
 some country districts for 10 krs. a week, or 30 krs. a month. A 
 small fee is paid to the farmer at whose house a traveller stops, for 
 permission to pasture his ponies. One traveller requires 6 ponies— 
 
 2 for himself, 2 for his guide, 1 for the tent, and 1 for food and clothing. ; 
 Two persons will require 10 ponies; three, 15 ponies, and four, 20 
 ponies. 
 
 A guide is quite indispensable. His charge will be 5 or 6 krs. a 
 day. This includes his board and lodging. The guides usually 
 know a little English; some speak it well. It is advisable to have a 
 written agreement, if the tour is long, or through a very unknown part 
 of the island. The traveller cannot do better than write to 
 Herra Geir Zcega, 
 
 Reykjavik, 
 
 by two mails previously, telling him exactly what he wants. He will 
 supply him with guide, ponies, riding and pack-saddles, and will 
 probably himself make all arrangements for, and be able to accompany 
 him through, Route 2 —to Thingvellir, the Geysirs and Hekla. 
 
Iceland. 
 
 § 6. OUTFIT, ETC. 
 
 ' 117 
 
 6.—Outfit. Clothing. Boots. Waterproofs. Tents. Boxes. 
 
 Provisions. Guns. Fishing-tackle. Sundries. 
 
 In a country like Iceland, where there are no inns, and where all 
 traffic is carried on by ponies, it is a matter of much importance to 
 consider carefully before starting what will be most essential to the 
 traveller. In the interior only a very little luggage is possible, and the 
 bulk of one’s belongings must be left on board the steamer to meet the 
 traveller on his return; or, if practicable, it may be left by the steamer at 
 the place of his ultimate destination, usually Reykjavik. 
 
 Clothing. —Two strong well-made suits will be required—one to be 
 worn, the other to be carried. Thick compact tweed, dark in colour, is the 
 best material; or thick blue serge. The buttons must be put on with 
 double sewing, and there should be plenty of pockets—one breast-pocket 
 lined with oiled silk. The coats should be double-breasted, or of the pea- 
 jacket pattern, and lined with wool; waistcoats to button up round the 
 neck if required; trousers of some well-wearing material double-seated, 
 and double along the inside of the leg, to prevent their wearing through 
 while riding; several flannel shirts, jerseys, woollen stockings, gloves, 
 both woollen and thick leather, and plenty of pocket handkerchiefs. A 
 few needles, buttons, pins and some strong thread will be found useful; 
 also two rough towels, and half-a-dozen napkins. 
 
 Boots. —A pair of thick laced porpoise-hide boots with nails in the 
 soles, perfectly easy for climbing, will be most useful; and a pair of 
 easy waterproof boots of the kind supplied to the last Arctic expedition ; 
 stout but easy leather slippers. 
 
 Waterproofs. — A long Mackintosh of stout waterproofed tweed is 
 necessary. It should have a case to be strapped behind the saddle, or it 
 will very soon mb into holes. A complete suit of yellow oilskins 
 (readily procured at Leith, near the starting-place of the steamers) is 
 cheap, not bulky, and for very rough weather most useful. It must 
 be borne in mind that rivers have constantly to be forded in Iceland; 
 that it sometimes rains violently for many hours, and that there is 
 no means of drying one’s clothes except in the sun. Every precaution 
 therefore ought to be adopted to avoid getting wet through. A pair 
 of well-fitting stout waterproof waders , going quite up to the thigh, 
 or fishing trousers, are the best things for Iceland travel. They are far 
 less clumsy than they look, as may be proved by the fact that the writer 
 ascended Mount Hekla without difficulty while clad in them. They 
 are always warn and comfortable in the midst of rain or of a glacier 
 river, and at night they easily pull off, and quickly get dry. A stout 
 waterproof sheet, about 9 ft. by 4 ft., is necessary to sleep upon in a tent, 
 
118 § 6. OUTFIT, ETC. Sect. II. 
 
 and. is otherwise very useful. A pair of goloshes is sometimes useful 
 for walking over lava beds on mountains. 
 
 Tents .—-A tent is a cumbrous thing to carry far inland on a pony, 
 and it takes some time to erect and take down ; but the possession of 
 it makes a man thoroughly independent, and for travel in the less- 
 known interior it is of course necessary. A light strong tent may be pro¬ 
 cured from Messrs. Edgington, or from William Calder, 21, Commercial 
 Street, Leith. It is sometimes possible to hire one from Messrs. Slimon 
 of Leith, or at Reykjavik; and for the Hekla and Geysir expedition 
 (Route 2), an arrangement may be made with Geir Zoega to supply 
 tents. 
 
 A “Garnet Wolseley” sleeping sack, obtainable (with many other 
 requisites for tent life) at Messrs. S. W. Silver, of Cornhill, will be 
 found very useful. It is scarcely necessary to take saddles and pack- 
 saddles from England, unless a long tour is projected. 
 
 Boxes .—Provisions and clothing must be carried in boxes adapted to 
 the pack-saddle commonly used in Iceland. They should be light, 
 strong and watertight, 2 ft. long, 16 in. deep, and 1 ft. broad, 
 inside measurement, the lid curved to let the rain run off; the sides, 
 ends and bottom of one piece of wood each, and dovetailed at the 
 corners. They should be lined with zinc, and a piece of waterproof 
 cloth should be placed on the top of everything and firmly pressed 
 down before closing the lid. Everything must be jammed into them 
 so tightly that there is no possibility of their moving, even if the box 
 is thrown down violently upon a rocky surface. These boxes may be 
 hired in Reykjavik or Akureyri, or made by Calder of Leith, or by any 
 good carpenter. They require good hinges, and should fasten by a 
 hasp and brass padlock. Each traveller will require two—one for 
 provisions, and one for clothes. 
 
 Provisions .—The quantity, of course, will be in proportion to the 
 length of the tour. The most useful things are pint tins of thick 
 vegetable soup (that called Hotch-potch by the Scotch, particularly 
 suitable), American corned-beef in 4 lb. tins ; tongues, tins of pressed 
 and preserved vegetables, bacon, cheese, plenty of biscuits, tinned pates, 
 salt; plates, cups and a saucepan of enamelled iron; knife, fork, 
 spoon and corkscrew. Some bottles of good Scotch whisky. A supply 
 of French chocolate for eating will be found most useful; it takes up 
 very little space, and is very nutritious. During a hurried journey 
 sufficient for luncheon with a biscuit or two can be carried in the 
 pocket, and the necessity of opening the boxes thus avoided. A small 
 paraffin cooking-stove is very useful but cumbrous. 
 
 When exploration is to be attempted of course other supplies are 
 
Iceland. § 7 . cost of travelling. 119 
 
 necessary. Mr. W. L. Watts describes the preparation of pemmican 
 (Across the Vatna JoJculI, pp. 26, 27). For his own expedition of 6 
 persons, he took 100 lbs. pemmican, 50 lbs. butter, 100 lbs. Danish 
 ship biscuits, 15 lbs. dried fish, 15 lbs. dried mutton, 12 lbs. gravy 
 soup, 2 tins Julienne, 6 tins chocolate and milk, 2 lbs. cocoa, 4 lbs. 
 sugar, 2 gallons of proof whisky, 1 gallon of spirit for burning, 5 lbs. of 
 tobacco, 3 tins of Peek and Frean’s meat biscuits. These provisions 
 lasted for a fortnight, and the party travelled from NupstaiS in the 
 S. across the Yatna Jokull, to GrimstaSir in the 1ST., a distance of 
 270 miles in 16 days, 12 of which had been passed in the regions 
 of perpetual snow. During the last 2 days their provisions ran 
 short. 
 
 Guns. —Mr. Lock recommends a '450 or *500 double express rifle, and 
 a double twelve bore central-fire breech-loader. A special box should 
 be constructed for the barrels, 2 ft. 7 in. in length, by 2\ in. deep, 
 and 6i in. wide. This will also take a fishing rod. The stocks, 
 cartridges, &c., should be carried in another box. 
 
 Fishing-tackle .—A rod in seven joints 2 ft. 6 in. in length, packed in 
 a box, is the most convenient. Rods carried in the ordinary way are very 
 liable to be broken. The ponies sometimes run about wildly, and the 
 boxes and other baggages collide. We have seen the stock of a rifle 
 broken during the comparatively short journey between Thingvellir 
 and the Geysirs. A good supply of lake-trout, and small grilse 
 flies will be required for the trout, and any good salmon flies for the 
 salmon. 
 
 Sundries .—A fine-meshed mosquito veil.* Some carbolic acid soap; 
 some cording, leather straps, and string; chlorodyne ; a box of Cockle’s 
 pills; some vaseline ; some arnica; ammonia for insect bites; a stick 
 of caustic; some sticking plaster. 
 
 7.— Cost of Travelling. 
 
 The tour from Leith to Reykjavik, thence to Thingvellir, the Geysirs, 
 and Hekla, returning to Reykjavik (Route 2), and to Leith by the 
 next steamer, including all expenses of every kind, costs no more 
 than from 35 1. to 40Z., and furnishes much variety: a sea voyage, a 
 delightful taste of healthy gipsy life, mountain, lake and river scenery 
 of a peculiarly wild character, and certain wonders of nature, such as 
 the Geysirs and hot springs. 
 
 The ordinary expenses of two men travelling together in any part of 
 * Procured with other necessaries of travel at 181 , Strand, London. 
 
120 § 8. FARM-HOUSES, INNS, ETC. Sect. II. 
 
 Iceland will scarcely exceed 1/. a day, divided in the following 
 manner:— 
 
 Ten ponies, at 2 kr. a day 
 Guide, at 6 kr. a day .. 
 Pasture for ponies 
 Accommodation at farms 
 Cost of provisions, &c. .. 
 Fording rivers, extra guide 
 
 20 kr. 
 6 „ 
 1 „ 
 5 „ 
 
 1 §„ 
 
 3S kr. = 21. 2s. 3d. 
 
 38 kr. 
 
 Baring Gould (Appendix E, p. 445, Iceland: its Scenes and Sagas) 
 gives the expenses of his two months’ tour, at 100/. 16s. 8c/.; but this 
 includes the purchase of a number of things, starting with “ Tent, pack- 
 saddle, pilch, hammock, &c., 14/.,” and the actual expenses in Iceland 
 were 64/. 4s. 6c/. Burton (vol. 2, pp. 201-211) gives a very complete 
 itinerary with expenses of a ten days’ tour from .Reykjavik, to Hekla, 
 and the Geysir via Krisuvik. The share of each of two travellers for 
 the ten days was 12/. When exploration is to be attempted, the ex¬ 
 penses will be greater, because special provisions will have to be 
 made, and several guides will be required. On the other hand, when a 
 sportsman remains at one farm-house or in one district for some days 
 the expenses will be less than stated above. Of course the payment 
 will depend upon the amount of accommodation afforded, and if this is 
 good the cost will exceed the amount stated above. A certain degree 
 of delicacy is often necessary. We must remember that the farm-houses 
 are not inns, and that travellers often put the hospitable inmates to 
 much inconvenience. 
 
 8.—Farm-houses, Inns, and other Accommodation. 
 
 Churches, usually small structures of tarred wood, 20 to 30 ft. long, by 
 15 ft. broad, and 12 or 14 ft. high, were till lately used throughout Iceland 
 as sleeping quarters for travellers, but owing to the behaviour of some 
 people a few years ago in Thingvellir Church, permission to use them 
 has been withdrawn by the Bishop. There are no inns in the interior 
 of the island, and the one or two which exist in the principal coast 
 villages are of the most primitive description. Accommodation may 
 often be obtained at farm-houses or parsonages. Some of these, like 
 the farm at Haukagil, or the capital parsonage house at Kalfatjorn, 
 are comfortable clean places, and the hospitality and courtesy of the 
 occupiers cannot be too highly praised; others, like the farm at 
 Kalmanstunga, are filthy beyond description. The traveller will in the 
 
Iceland. 
 
 121 
 
 § 9. BOOKS AND MAPS. 
 
 latter case live in his tent, and make use entirely of his own provisions. 
 Capital coffee and cream, rye bread, and pancakes, can be usually pro¬ 
 cured at the farm-houses, also slcyr, a kind of curds eaten with sugar. 
 Eggs are very difficult to obtain. Trout and char can sometimes he 
 obtained, also ptarmigan. 
 
 9.—Books and Maps. 
 
 It is scarcely more than a century ago that an interest was awakened 
 in Iceland by the publication of Uno Yon Troil’s Travels, since which 
 time a multitude of books have appeared. We mention those only 
 which appear to recommend themselves as being serviceable to the 
 intending traveller in the country. 
 
 Travels in Iceland during the Summer of 1810. By Sir G. S. 
 Mackenzie. A fine quarto volume with coloured illustrations, not 
 difficult to obtain, and full of information. The author was accompanied 
 by Sir Henry Holland and Dr. Bright, who severally studied the 
 history and literature, and the zoology and botany of the island. 
 
 Iceland : Journal of a Residence in that Island during the Years 1814 
 and 1815. By Ebenezer Henderson. 2 vols. 8vo. 1818. A capital 
 book, which, on the whole, is more interesting than any other single 
 book on the subject. 
 
 A very elaborate French work on Iceland and Greenland in 8 
 volumes, edited by M. Paul Gaimard, and costing £21, may be con¬ 
 sulted in any good library. 
 
 Iceland: its Volcanoes , Geysers,and Glacier's. _By C. S. Forbes. 1860. 
 An interesting volume. 
 
 Iceland: its Scenes and Sagas, by Sabine Baring Gould. 1863. A 
 most instructive volume, particularly to be recommended to the 
 traveller. 
 
 The North West Reninsula of Iceland. By C. W. Sheplieard. 1864. 
 
 Ultima Thule. A Summer in Iceland. By Captain Pi. F. Burton. 
 2 vols. 1875. 
 
 Across the Vatna Jahull. By Wm. L. Watts. 1875. 
 
 A Guide to Iceland. By W. G. Lock. 1882. Particularly useful to 
 sportsmen. 
 
 If the traveller finds any difficulty in making a selection from the 
 above, we do not hesitate to say that Henderson, Baring Goidd , and 
 W. G. Loch, are the three books which we should choose, as the most 
 generally useful. 
 
 The Icelandic-English Dictionary of Messrs. Cleasby and Vigfusson 
 (Oxford, Clarendon Press, 1869-75) is a valuable hook, which has been 
 
122 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 § 10. HISTORICAL NOTICE. 
 
 pronounced “ the best existing dictionary of any Teutonic tongue.” 
 The Icelandic Prose Peader of Messrs. Vigfusson and Powell is also 
 a very useful book. 
 
 Maps .—Charts are published by the English, Danish and French 
 Admiralties. 
 
 Almost every book on Iceland has a map attached to it. A capital 
 map of the island was published in 1844 in Copenhagen, in four 
 sheets, each 22 in. by 17, and the work of Professor Gunnlaugsson 
 and Major Olsen. The scale is 1 inch = 7‘575 miles. It costs in 
 Reykjavik 12 kr., unmounted; 22 kr., mounted in a case; and in 
 England, mounted and in a case, 21. 16s. 6c?. A reduction of this map 
 to half the scale, costs 7s., and is the one most convenient for 
 travel in the interior. It should be mounted on strong calico and 
 varnished, and should have a waterproof case. No good geological 
 map of the island exists. 
 
 Variation of the Compass.—A good compass should be taken, and 
 if the traveller is unaccustomed to the use of it, he should receive 
 instruction before starting, or from the mate of the vessel in which he 
 sails. Mr. Coles (Summer Travelling in Iceland, Murray, 1882, 
 pp. 255, 256) says : “ The magnetic variation in Iceland is very' great, 
 being as much as 43° W. in the extreme W. of the island, and 34° W. 
 on the E. coast, and as the error of the compass arising from this cause 
 will vary by 9° or f of a point, according as it is taken on the E. or W. 
 of the island, I will give a rule for each locality.” If the traveller is in 
 the W. of Iceland “ he would have to turn his compass box until the 
 N. end of the magnetic needle was over N.W., and then the N. on the 
 card would be pointing true N., and as a consequence all the other 
 points marked on the card would also indicate true bearings. If the 
 same thing happened in the E. part of the island, the N. end of the 
 magnetic needle would have to be placed directly over N. W. by A 7 ., 
 and then all the points marked on the card would indicate true bear¬ 
 ings. . . . Should a compass of the ordinary card pattern be used, the 
 following rules must be followed. In the W. of Iceland true N. is 
 represented by N.E. on the compass, and in the E. of Iceland by N.E. 
 by N.” 
 
 10.—Historical Notice. 
 
 A viking, named Naddodr, while voyaging between Norway and the 
 Faroe Islands in 860 a.d., was driven out of his course to the N.W. by 
 a storm, and sighted Iceland, which he named Snceland. In 864 
 GarSar Svafarsson, a Swede, landed on the N. coast, where Husavik 
 
Iceland. § 10. historical notice. 123 
 
 now stands, and built a house there; while in 868 a viking, named 
 Floki YilgerSarsson, visited the island, and gave it its present name, 
 because he found the northern coast surrounded by ice. In 874 
 two noblemen of Norway, named Ingolfr and Leifr, whose lands had 
 been confiscated, sailed for Iceland, of the existence of which they 
 had heard from Floki, and settled in the south. Other emigrants 
 followed. Between 890 and 900 Queen Aud, widow of Olaf the White, 
 King of Dublin, accompanied by many followers, landed on the 
 island, and established a colony there. Thus the colonisation took 
 place both from the east (Scandinavia), and from the west (Ireland). 
 In 1100 there were about 50,000 inhabitants. Christianity was intro¬ 
 duced in 1000, and an ecclesiastical code was made in 1125. There 
 were two bishoprics,—Skalholt and Hdlar—and 175 parishes, two- 
 thirds of which were under the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Skalholt. 
 There were also nunneries and priories. The bishops were elected by 
 the people. 
 
 In the earlier stages the chief erected a temple near his own house, 
 and himself officiated as priest. His retainers lived around him, and 
 he was their lawgiver, judge and king, possessing power of life and 
 death. When the population increased, and many chiefs had arisen, a 
 process of centralisation commenced. The chiefs met together in 
 Council, statutes were framed, and a national Parliament ( Althing) 
 was assembled at Thingvellir in 929. Some years later it consisted of 
 145 members. In both the earlier and the later Sagas we have accounts 
 of proceedings in the Althing, and many illustrations of the life of the 
 period. Early in the thirteenth century some of the more important chiefs 
 quarrelled, and a civil war, lasting from 1208 to 1222, was the result. 
 A second civil war occurred between 1226 and 1258. Some of the 
 disaffected chiefs sought the aid of Hakon, King of Norway, who 
 annexed the island in 1262. Thus ended the commonwealth, which 
 had endured for nearly 400 years. 
 
 When, in 1530, Norway was united with Denmark, Iceland also fell 
 under Danish rule, and thus it has remained ever since. “ The old life 
 in the Commonwealth was turbulent and anarchic, but free and 
 varied. It produced men of mark, and fostered bravery, adventure and 
 progress. The great chiefs were indeed only greater franklins ; but 
 their wealth and comparative luxury gave them leisure and opportunities 
 for culture which raised them as examples and leaders above their 
 fellows; the pride of birth preserved a nobility of feeling, and high 
 standard of honour, amid much of violence and chicane. But all this 
 ceased now, and there was left but a low dead level of poor peasant 
 proprietors without pride in the past, political interest in the present, or 
 
124 § 11. LANGUAGE AND LITEEATUEE. Sect. II. 
 
 ambition of the future, careless of all save how to live by as little labour 
 as possible, and pay as few taxes as they could to their foreign rulers.” 
 
 The government was transferred to the conquering nation; a 
 governor was appointed, and the country divided into counties. Trade 
 was carried on mainly with England. Everything degenerated, and 
 the people became listless and apathetic. The country suffered also 
 from severe epidemics, and from serious volcanic eruptions. 
 
 The Reformation took place between 1530 and 1575, comparatively 
 peaceably, yet not without some struggle. The people have remained 
 Lutherans ever since. The country was much harassed by pirates 
 during portions of the 16th and 17th centuries; while early in the 
 18th no less than one-tliird of the population perished by the small¬ 
 pox. Later in the century 10,000 persons perished by famine, and the 
 sheep were smitten with disease. Several fearful volcanic eruptions 
 also took place (1766 and 1783 the worst). During the present century 
 things have improved. Trade has become more brisk, the vexatious 
 monopolies have been abolished, and in January 1874 the present 
 king of Denmark granted a new constitution to Iceland. The Althing, 
 abolished in 1800, has been restored, and it now meets biennially in 
 Reykjavik. It consists of 30 members elected by the people and six 
 by the king. 
 
 11.—Language and Liteeatuee. 
 
 The author of the article on Iceland in the last edition of the Ency¬ 
 clopaedia Britannica, tabulates the Literary History of the island into 
 four periods:—The Commonwealth, extending between 870 and 1284, 
 which is subdivided into the Heroic Aye (870-1030) ; Saga telling 
 (1030-1100); and the Literary Age (1100-1284). During the latter 
 the principal sagas were written; Snorri and his school and Sturla 
 flourished. In the second period, Medievalism, extending from 1284 
 to 1530, Continental influence, chiefly Norse, prevailed ; new Medkeval 
 poetry was introduced, the old traditions died out, and in the latter 
 portion or dark-age period (1413-1530) only mediaeval poetry flourished. 
 The third great period commenced with the Reformation, and the 
 introduction of printing (1530-1575) was followed by the Renaissance 
 (1575-1700) ; which was succeeded by the gradual decay of literature 
 (1700-1850). In the fourth period is placed the partial recovery of 
 Iceland, the introduction of modern thought and learning, the collec¬ 
 tion and propagation of learning by Icelandic scholars abroad, and the 
 assumption of an Independence. 
 
Iceland. 
 
 125 
 
 §12. STATISTICS. 
 
 Tlie Saga is the most prominent feature of Icelandic literature. It 
 is usually the life of a hero, and bears resemblance to the Epic. Thirty- 
 five or forty sagas relating to Icelanders remain. They were first told 
 stories, and afterwards (1140-1220) written down. A great body of 
 poetical works ( JEddas ) was also produced in the earlier periods of 
 literature. 
 
 In the fourth century the Teutonic tribes all spoke one language; 
 the Icelandic was a development of the twelfth century, and was 
 modified during tbe 13th and 16th centuries. A few words of 
 constant occurrence as prefixes or affixes, or otherwise, have been 
 given below with their English meaning. The consonant p, Thorn, 
 has the same sound as th in English, as in thought ; and the modified 
 d, D or 3, has the sound of dh, or soft th, as in gather. 
 
 dab, valley. 
 fjorZr, firth. 
 fjdll, mountain. 
 fljot, river. 
 foss, waterfall. 
 hraun, lava stream. 
 heiZi, a heath, usually a rocky up¬ 
 land. 
 
 liver, hot spring. 
 sira, reverend. 
 
 tun, enclosed fields round a farm¬ 
 house. 
 
 beer (pronounced byre), a dwelling. 
 vatn, a lake. 
 
 joltull, an ice mountain (b pro¬ 
 nounced u, as in murmur). 
 skriZjokull, glacier. 
 
 Tiolmr, a rocky island. 
 bondi, a peasant proprietor. 
 hestr, a horse. 
 prestr, a priest. 
 lcirkja, a church. 
 faZir, father. 
 
 12.—Statistics. 
 
 The habitable area of Iceland is at the outside 4000 square miles, or 
 roughly one-tenth of the whole area. The population, according to the 
 last census, was 72,000, or less than 2 per square mile on the total area, 
 and less than 20 per square mile on the inhabited area. 
 
 There are 4 main divisions, which are divided into Sijslur (counties, 
 or cantons) ; and subdivided into 169 hreppar, or poor law districts. 
 
 A Governor-General is appointed by the King of Denmark ; under 
 him there are two sub-governors—one for the S. and W., and 
 one for the N. and E. Then there are Syslumenn, or sheriff's, 
 who are notaries, magistrates and tax-gatherers ; and the sheriff has aa 
 assistant in every hreppur, called a hreppstjori. There is an appeal 
 from the sheriff to a superior court of three judges, which sits in 
 Eeykjavik. 
 
 The population in a.d. 1100 is believed to have been 50,000, in 
 
126 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 § 12. STATISTICS. 
 
 1770 it had only increased to 60,000; in 1783, owing to famine and 
 volcanic eruptions, it fell to 47,287, and in 1786 to 38,142 ; in 1801 it 
 had risen to 46,240; in 1840 to 57,094; in 1860 to 66,987; and in 
 1870 to 69,763. In 1872 there were 33,102 males, and 36,660 females. 
 In 1855 there were 203 priests and teachers; 47 Government employes ; 
 170 people living on their means (the richest man in Iceland derives 
 only £300 a year from his property); 29 men of science and letters; 
 7681 persons living hy agriculture (supporting 81’23 per cent, of the 
 entire population); 1066 people living by the sea ; 226 mechanics; 
 285 pursuing no definite occupation; 1207 receiving alms; and 2 
 prisoners. 
 
 The State Church is the Lutheran. All Icelanders profess it. The 
 Bishop is appointed by the King, and there are 290 churches and 141 
 clergymen. Education is in an advanced state. Peasants not un- 
 frequently speak more than one language. 
 
 There is a college in Eeykjavik with 7 professors, and about 100 
 students; a college for priests with 3 professors. Lectures are given 
 to medical students. There is no law school. 
 
 The country is essentially agricultural, understanding by that 
 term the rearing of cattle, sheep and ponies. Only 215 acres are under 
 cultivation in the whole island. The haymaking is prosecuted with 
 energy during the hottest period of the year. It sometimes lasts 
 from the middle of July to the middle of September. The cattle in 
 the island, according to the latest return, number 20,378; ponies, 
 31,312; and sheep, 415,339. Several hundred sheep and ponies are 
 annually exported to Scotland. The ponies are small; they cost 31. or 
 41. apiece, and are mainly employed in Scottish mines. 
 
 There are no manufactures in the island. Spinning, weaving and 
 knitting are carried on. The only mineral which is worked is sulphur. 
 The late Dr. Hjaltalin (died June 5th, 1882), primus medicus of the 
 island, and well known to all Icelandic travellers during the last 40 
 years for his immense cordiality and bonhomie, and his keen insight 
 into the capabilities and resources of his country, was of opinion that 
 iron could be profitably worked ; that lime could be made, and hence 
 stone houses built; and that some of the many mineral waters could 
 be utilised medicinally. 
 
 The trade is almost entirely in the hands of Danes, and is mainly 
 carried on by barter. There is very little ready money in the country. 
 The chief exports are Codfish (6,000,000 lbs. annually) ; train and 
 shark liver oil (9500 barrels) ; wool (1,500,000 lbs.); feathers 
 (20,000 lbs.); and eider down (a valuable product) about 7000 lbs., 
 annually. The imports are breadstuff's, groceries, spirits (chiefly corn- 
 
Iceland. § 13. physical geography and geology. 127 
 
 brandy and rum), beer, tobacco, salt, wood and other building materials, 
 hardware, and earthenware. 
 
 It has been asserted that if the fishing and other resources of Iceland 
 were properly developed, it could support eight times its present 
 population ; but we consider this an over-estimate. 
 
 13.— Physical Geography and Geology. 
 
 Iceland is partly within the E. hemisphere, and partly within the W. 
 The meridian of Ferro cuts it in twain. It extends from 63° 23' 
 to 66° 33' hi. lat., and from 13° 22' to 24° 35' W. long. Extreme length, 
 300 miles ; breadth, 200 miles. Area, 39,200 square miles, i.e. 5 times 
 larger than Sicily, and one sixth larger than Ireland. The Arctic Circle 
 just penetrates the island on the N.E. coast at Rif. The island is 240 
 miles from Greenland, 500 from Scotland and nearly 650 from Norway. 
 About 5500 square miles ar ejoklar, or highlands covered with snow 
 and ice ; the Vatna Jokull alone is believed to cover an area of nearly 
 3000 square miles (exceeding the size of Devonshire). The total area 
 of pasture and moorland has been estimated at 15,000 square miles ; 
 there is scarcely any arable land. The sand and lava deserts occupy 
 nearly 9000 square miles ; and the remaining 10,000 square miles are 
 mountains of altitudes varying from 2000 to 6426 ft. Twenty-seven 
 mountains exceed 3100 feet; the highest are Orcefajokull , 6426; 
 Sncefell (in the S.E., north of the Vatna Jokull), 5964; Eyjafjallajokull, 
 5593; Her&uhrefc 5447; and Hekla, 5108 ft. The snow line is be¬ 
 tween 2500 and 3000 ft. Among the mountains there are a great 
 number of extinct volcanoes and several active ones. Twenty-five 
 have been active since the colonisation of the island, 1000 years ago, 
 and some of the eruptions have been of prodigious violence. In 1766 
 a column of ashes was ejected from Hekla to a height of 3 m. In 
 1783 one of the most violent eruptions ever recorded in any part of 
 the world took place from or near the Skaptarjokull. Two lava 
 streams, one of 50 m. in length, and the other of 40, and from 12 to 
 15 m. in breath, and from 100 to 400 ft. in depth, flowed from it. 
 The lava covered an area of over 400 square miles (nearly that of 
 Bedfordshire); one-sixth of the entire population of the island were 
 directly or indirectly destroyed, and nearly one half of the live stock. 
 
 The S. coast is unbroken by bays or fjords, and there is no anchorage. 
 The W. coast (especially the N.W.) is extremely indented, as is 
 also to a less extent the N. and E. coasts. Some of these bays are 60 
 miles long, and some of the fiords 45. The centre of the island is 
 
128 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 § 14. SHOOTING, FISHING, ETC. 
 
 high ground, averaging nearly 2000 ft. above the sea. This is made 
 up of mountains, jokulls, lava and sand deserts, moorland, marsh, bog 
 and pasture land. There are no trees. A few tracts are covered with 
 the dwarf birch. There are numerous fine rivers and waterfalls. 
 Among the former may be mentioned the Thjorsa, the Skjalfandafljot, 
 and the Jokulsa d Fjollum, each more than 100 m. in length; the 
 Evita (white river), a common name for a glacier river, on account of 
 the milky appearance of the water ; the Blanda, and the Hera&svotn. 
 The principal waterfalls are the Dettifoss, the Gd&afoss (Route 5), 
 and the Gullfoss (Route 2). There are four large lakes, and a great 
 number of small ones. Thingvallavatn (Route 2) and Myvatn (Route 5) 
 are the largest. The Thjorsa falls 2000 ft. in 60 m. and carries 
 down a vast volume of water from the central jokulls. Upwards of 
 200 warm springs exist in the island—some acid and siliceous, others 
 alkaline and siliceous. Geysirs are springs which discharge hot 
 water; reykirs are hot steaming quiescent pools; laugs are warm 
 springs; liver, ndma and ketill are terms applied to boiling pools of 
 mud or water, the ndma usually giving off sulphurous gases. The 
 Ol-keldar is a spring of water highly charged with carbonic acid. 
 
 According to PaijkulTs Geologisk Karta ofner Island , more than 
 two thirds of the island consists of basaltic tufa , through which here 
 and there trachyte protrudes. The districts to the S. of Myvatn, and S. 
 of the Langjokull and Hofsjokull, contain a great deal of palagonite 
 tufa. Lava appears around Hekla, in the Gullbringu Sysla, and in the 
 Oda<5ahraun; alluvium along a stretch of S. coast between Dyrholaey 
 and Stafafell, and smalls deposits of Surtarbrandr at various points 
 along the W. and N. coasts. 
 
 14. —Shooting, Fishing, Geologising and Exploration. 
 
 Under any circumstances a tour in Iceland involves a good deal of 
 discomfort, and roughing it in a manner to which few travellers are 
 accustomed; hence it happens that the comparatively small number of 
 persons who visit its shores usually do so with some definite object in 
 view, other than simple change of air and scene. The principal objects 
 are sport, geology or exploration. Others go from a fondness of the 
 scenery or literature. Those who go without any special interest in 
 anything are likely to be disappointed. 
 
 Capital notes on the sport in Iceland have been contributed from 
 time to time to the Field by Mr. W. G. Lock. The following are 
 some of his remarks. 
 
Iceland. § 14. shooting, fishing, etc. 129 
 
 Shooting. —Swans, several varieties of geese, and of ducks, teal, 
 whimbrel, plover and snipe are met with in Iceland till the end 
 of August. Woodcock are never seen. Grouse are very plentiful; 
 chiefly ptarmigan, which about the end of August seek a greater 
 elevation (2000 feet or above), where there are patches of snow. The 
 best grouse moors are said to be—in the N.E. Hvammsheifti, S. 
 of Husavik; the moorland W. of the Skjalfandafljot from Thingey 
 southwards for 8 miles; the valleys W. of the mountain range to the 
 N. of BeykjahlitS ; and the moors around Svartarkot and Ga%r. 
 The ViZidalsfjall W. of the Vatnsdal is one of the best places in 
 Iceland for grouse. (See 4th and 5th day, Route 4.) In the S. grouse 
 may be found in the neighbourhood of Tbingvellir, and in the low 
 underwood which covers portions of the plain of the Yestri Ranga 
 between Burfell and Hekla. Wild fowl may be shot on the Fiskivotn and 
 Arnarvatnshev&i. (See 5th day, Route 4.) By a recent Act of the 
 Althing there is a close season, lasting from the beginning of April to 
 the 20th of August. Three small herds of reindeer exist in Iceland. 
 Their progenitors were brought from Norway in the middle of the last 
 century. The largest herd is said to contain 200, and to inhabit the 
 fjelds S.W. of the Lagarfljot and N. of the eastern Sncefell (i.e. in the 
 territory due E. of Askja, and S. of Mo<Srudalr). A second herd 
 inhabits the mountain range N. and S. of Krafia; while the third is 
 found in the range of volcanic mountains running N.E. from Krisuvik 
 to Thingvallavatn (Route 3). Seals are private property, but permission 
 to shoot them is sometimes given by the farmers. 
 
 Fishing. —Right to fish in the ElltiSaarvatn , 3 hrs.’ ride from 
 Reykjavik, may be purchased for 10 kr. a day from Herra Thomsen, 
 a Danish merchant living in Reykjavik. In the Minni Laxd, and Stcerri 
 Laxd, near Hruni parsonage (5th day, Route 2), salmon and sea trout 
 may be caught with the permission of the owners. An offer of pay¬ 
 ment should always be made. Laxd means salmon river, and we 
 find the name all over Iceland. Wherever a river bears it, salmon is 
 to be found, and the guide will always be able to ascertain if per¬ 
 mission to fish in it is obtainable. Also in the Fiskivotn (Fish lakes), 
 between Kalmanstunga and Grimstungur (Route 4, 5th day), there are 
 abundant char and trout. Thingvellir lake contains plenty of char. 
 
 Geologising. —From a geological point of view Iceland is particularly 
 interesting: the numerous records of both ancient and modern 
 volcanic action, the active volcanoes, the palagonite and tufaceous 
 rocks, the geyserite, and other geysir products, the rare minerals, such 
 as epistilbite and Iceland spar, the surtarbrandr, and the sulphur fields, 
 all afford interesting studies. In the works of Bunsen, Paijkull, 
 
 [Denmark.'] K 
 
130 
 
 Section II. 
 
 § 15. SKELETON TOURS. 
 
 Von Waltershausen, and Johnstrup (for the most part unfortunately- 
 buried in the proceedings of Danish, German or Swedish learned 
 societies), the traveller will find abundant discussion of the most inte¬ 
 resting locality, as regards volcanic action, in the world. 
 
 Exploration .—Some will visit Iceland for purposes of exploration. 
 They cannot go with a better object in view. Many portions of the 
 island are hut partially explored, and many peaks and jokulls have 
 never been ascended or crossed. Mr. Watts’ Across the Tatna 
 Jbkull is the hook for such aspirants, to he followed by other records 
 of exploration in the northern world. An account of a journey across 
 the Sprengisandr in 1881 will be found in Summer Travelling in 
 Iceland. By John Coles. (Murray, 1882.) 
 
 15. —Skeleton Tours. 
 
 (The traveller is particularly recommended to trace out on the 
 accompanying map each of the following routes. 
 
 Boute 1. Leith to Beykjavik, touching at the Faroe Islands. Pp. 132- 
 131. 
 
 Boute 2. Thingvellir, Geysirs, Hekla. The most popular route. 12 to 
 16 days, or, including the voyage to and from Leith, 3J weeks; 
 middle of August. 
 
 Beykjavik to Thingvellir by the MossfellsheiSi ; Thingvellir to 
 the Geysirs, by Laugavatn and the Bruara ; the Geysirs to Gullfoss, 
 the Hvita, and Hruni; Hruni to Galtalcekr Farm ; Ascent of Hekla; 
 Galtalcekr to Eyrarbakki; Eyrarbakki to Beykir across the Olfusa ; 
 Beykir back to Beykjavik by way of the HellisheiSi. Pp. 134- 
 138. 
 
 Boute 3. The S.W. Peninsula. 4 days 3 nights. 
 
 Beykjavik to Xrisuvik; along the S. coast by StaSr to Cape 
 Eeykjanes ; returning to Beykjavik by Kirkjuvogr, Kalfatjora and 
 Hafnarfjordr. Pp. 139-141. 
 
 Boute 4. Across the island from Akureyri to Beykjavik. 8 or 9 days. 
 
 Akureyri to Bsegisa ; through the Oxnadalr to SilfrastaSir; across 
 the HeTsSsvotn to Anokula; Haukagil; across the Vi&idalstungu- 
 hei<5i to Kalmangstunga and the Surtshellir Caves ; Kalmanstunga 
 to Thingvellir, and back to Beykjavik Pp. 141-143. 
 
Iceland. § 15. skeleton tours. 131 
 
 Route 5. N. E. Iceland and the volcano Askja. About 3 weeks, late July 
 or August. 
 
 Akureyri, Ljosavatn, Muli, and tlieGoiSafoss waterfall; Husavik, 
 Uxahver (the northern Geysirs), Asbyrgi, the Dettifoss waterfall, 
 Iieykjahlith ; the solfatara around Reykjahlith; Leirknukr, Krafla, 
 and Hrafutinnuhryggr; SkutustaSir, Svartarkot, the 6da$ahraun; 
 Askja ; return to Akureyri by Svartarkot and Storuvellir. Pp. 143- 
 146. 
 
 Route 6. The N.W. Peninsula of Iceland. About a month, late July 
 or August. (Not particularly recommended, unless the traveller has 
 some special reasons for wishing to visit it.') 
 
 Reykjavik to Reynivellir; Glymrfoss, Lundr, and the hot springs 
 of Reykholt; Stafholt, StaSarhraun, and Miklaholt; the volcano 
 Eldborg; BuSir; the basaltic caves of Stapi ; the Snaefells Penin¬ 
 sula; the Snaefells Jokull; Olafsvik, Grundarfjord, Helgafell, and 
 Stykkisholmr; Thorsnes, BreiSabolstaSr, HjarSarholt, and Bor- 
 deyri; the N.W. Peninsula; Gublangvik, Berufjordr, Kirkjubol, 
 Hamar, Isafjordr; ascent of the Dranga Jokull ; Os; Surtarbrandar 
 formations; return to Bordeyri; thence by boat to Reykjavik or 
 Leith direct; or by land to Reykjavik; or to Akureyri. Pp. 147- 
 148. 
 
 Other Routes. 
 
 Across the Sprengisandr. 
 
 Along the S. coast to Berufjordr. 
 Across the Vatna Jokull. 
 
 The Vatnajallavegr Route. 
 
 Pages 148, 149. 
 
132 
 
 ROUTE 1 .—LEITH TO REYKJAVIK. Section II. 
 
 KOUTE 1. 
 
 LEITH TO REYKJAVIK, TOUCHING AT 
 THE FAROE ISLANDS. 
 
 Leith (see Handbook for Scotland '). 
 
 The steamer usually sails in the 
 afternoon or evening from Leith or 
 Gran ton, the Firth of Forth is tra¬ 
 versed, Fife Ness rounded, and the 
 Bell Bock lighthouse soon after 
 sighted. Montrose, Stonehaven,Aber¬ 
 deen, and Peterhead are passed 
 in succession as the steamer keeps 
 her course a few miles from the 
 coast. Later we pass either through 
 the Pentland Firth, or between the 
 Orkney and the Shetland Islands. 
 Nearly two hundred miles to the 
 N.W. of the Shetlands, and probably 
 at the end of the second day out of 
 Leith, the Faroe Islands are sighted, 
 if, as is rarely the case, they are not 
 enveloped in fog. The Danish mail 
 steamers invariably stop at Thors- 
 havn,' the capital, both in going and 
 returning. 
 
 The Faroe Islands (N. lat. 62), 
 are 35 in number ; 17 are inhabited. 
 Stromoe is the centre, and the seat 
 of the capital, Thorshavn. The total 
 area of the islands does not exceed 
 500 square miles; and the inhabi¬ 
 tants scarcely exceed 11,000. The 
 country is mountainous, and the 
 elevations range from 1000 to 2800 ft. 
 The prevailing rocks are trap and 
 basalt, which furnish some interest¬ 
 ing minerals, particularly Zeolites. 
 A few thin seams of coal occur. The 
 trap rocks ( trappa , a stair) rise in a 
 succession of grass-covered terraces, 
 affording good pasturage for sheep, 
 which were introduced by the early 
 “Westman,” or Irish settlers; and 
 found in abundance by the Norwe¬ 
 
 gians in the 9th cent, when they 
 colonised the islands. Hence the 
 name Farcer (Fxr, sheep; oer, isles; 
 but Landt says the name means the 
 Far-away Islands). Sheep-farming 
 and fishing, are the principal indus¬ 
 tries of the colony. It belongs to 
 Denmark, and is represented at home 
 by a National Legislative Assembly, 
 called the LagtMng, and in Denmark 
 by a representative member. 
 
 Tbe islands are surrounded by 
 open seas in all directions; the dis¬ 
 tance to Norway is over 400 m., to 
 Iceland over 300 m. They are very 
 bleak, and storm-swept, and heavy 
 fogs frequently hang over them for 
 days. “ Their agricultural products 
 are small, as, from the rocky charac¬ 
 ter of the soil, most of the cultivation 
 must' be done with the hoe instead of 
 tbe plough. Beside the pursuit of 
 the cod and herring-fisheries, the 
 taking of seals and whales is an im¬ 
 portant industry. When a school of 
 dolphins are in sight, the joyful 
 news is communicated by signal fires, 
 and the boats, to the number of 
 several hundreds, soon form a huge 
 semicircle around the prey, driving 
 them into shallow water with shouts 
 and blows, where they are quickly 
 killed by the excited crowd. The 
 flesh is eaten fresh, and dried, and 
 the blubber is converted into train- 
 oil for food and various uses. Al¬ 
 most all kinds of sea-fowl, the gulls 
 and cormorants excepted, are eaten, 
 fresh, salted, or dried, as also are 
 their eggs. They raise many cattle, 
 ponies, and sheep, for which the 
 fields are well calculated ; from the 
 latter, as in Iceland, the wool is 
 pulled, instead of being shorn, the 
 portions ready to fall being taken 
 at each time. The people are healthy 
 and long-lived, but they do not in¬ 
 crease rapidly.” 
 
 Stromoe contains 143 sq. m. Thors¬ 
 havn, the capital, is the only town 
 and seat of government. It contains 
 nearly 1000 Inhab. The streets 
 are narrow, crooked, and steep; the 
 
Iceland. 
 
 ROUTE 1.-REYKJAVIK. 
 
 133 
 
 houses of wood or turf, and thatched 
 with turf. The traveller may land 
 from the Danish steamer for an hour 
 or two, but he will find nothing of 
 interest to detain him. Burton says, 
 “ We left the Faroes with a convic¬ 
 tion that its capital is one of the 
 slowest places now in existence ; the 
 only possible excitement would be to 
 buy a 560-fathom fowl-rope, and to 
 dangle like the samphire-gatherer of 
 dreadful trade over the bird-preci¬ 
 pices.” 
 
 Iceland will he sighted on the 
 second day after leaving Thorshavn. 
 The Danish steamer will probably 
 call at the Westmann Islands (v. 
 the map); afterwards Cape Reyk- 
 janes (Rte. 3) will be rounded, the 
 Faxa Fjor&r will be entered, Snsefells 
 Jokull will be seen far to the W., 
 and presently the little black houses 
 and the church of Reykjavik will 
 come into view. The ship will 
 anchor a few hundred yards from 
 shore, and the landing will be made 
 from one of the ship’s boats at a 
 small wooden jetty. 
 
 Reykjavik (Inns: There is no inn 
 in the European sense in Reykjavik, 
 and the traveller must not expect 
 the conveniences of larger and more 
 southern towns. Halberg’s Inn is 
 the best, and by writing to the pro¬ 
 prietor by the previous mail, a fairly 
 comfortable room may be secured. 
 Alexandra Hotel, Jespersen; on the 
 Strand. Or the traveller may occupy 
 his berth on board the yacht or steam¬ 
 boat during the one or two nights 
 that he remains in Reykjavik. But 
 if he wishes to stay there for several 
 days, he should write to Geir Zcega 
 by the previous mail, and ask him to 
 procure accommodation in a private 
 lodging-house. These houses are 
 clean, the people civil and obliging, 
 and the charges moderate). 
 
 Reykjavik,said to have been found¬ 
 ed by Ingolfr in a.d. 877, has a 
 population approaching 3000, and 
 is the residence of the governor, 
 
 bishop, chief j udges and other official s. 
 It is situated in the S.W. of Iceland, 
 on a headland which projects into 
 the FaxafjorSr, and the harbour is 
 protected by the headland on the 
 S.W., and by three small islands, 
 Akrey, Engey and Vi^Sey on the N. 
 The houses are mainly constructed 
 of wood, and there are three streets 
 parallel with the quay, several 
 streets at right angles to these, and 
 a square, in the centre of which is a 
 statue of Thorvaldsen, who was of 
 Icelandic descent. The principal 
 buildings are the Cathedral, the 
 Parliament House for the biennial 
 meetings of the Althing, the Latin 
 School, the Hospital, and the go¬ 
 vernor’s house. There is, in the Al¬ 
 thing House, a Museum containing 
 some interesting antiquarian re¬ 
 mains, and a Library, in which are 
 preserved some old MSS. and a copy 
 of the first Bible printed in the 
 Island, at Holar, in 1584. There 
 are several general stores in the 
 town, in which almost anything 
 can be procured; a post-office, a 
 bookseller, a druggist, and several 
 harness-makers. 
 
 An English Consul resides here, 
 and English is much spoken. 
 
 The Danish merchants are very 
 obliging, and will supply many re¬ 
 quisites for travel, and also change 
 English gold into kroners. Per¬ 
 mission to fish in one of the streams 
 near Reykjavik is sometimes given 
 by application to the owner. 
 
 In the Cathedral there is a font 
 sculptured and presented by Thor¬ 
 valdsen ; and in the Museum some 
 jewelled crucifixes, and embroidered 
 vestments from Skalholt Cathedral. 
 
 The autumn sunsets seen from the 
 rising ground to the W. of Reyk¬ 
 javik are often very beautiful, and 
 the aurora may not infrequently be 
 witnessed. 
 
 Two miles to the E. are some hot 
 springs from which Reykjavik ( Reek- 
 wick) takes its name. The islands 
 in the harbour may easily be visited. 
 
134 
 
 ROUTE 2. REYKJAVIK TO THINGVELLIR. Section II. 
 
 Vi%ey is the most interesting. It 
 contains a chapel which belonged to 
 a monastery founded in 1226. Great 
 numbers of eider ducks breed in the 
 island, and they are rigorously pro¬ 
 tected by law. The down is worth 
 from 12s. to 18s. a lb. according to 
 the season. 
 
 BessastaZir, to the south, is less 
 than 2 hrs.’ ride from Eeykjavik, 
 and is worth visiting. The church 
 is curious, and a large building in its 
 vicinity was formerly used as the 
 college. 
 
 Sneefells Jokull (4713 ft.), al¬ 
 though 70 m. distant, is a very 
 striking object as seen in the clear 
 evening light from Reykjavik. 
 
 ROUTE 2. 
 
 From 12 to 16 days. 
 
 REYKJAVIK TO THIN GVELLIR, THE 
 GEYSIRS, GULLFOSS AND HEKLA, 
 RETURNING BY EYRARBAKKI, REY- 
 KIR AND THE HELLISHErSl TO 
 REYKJAVIK. 
 
 1st day. Reykjavik to ThingveUir. 
 The start for ThingveUir should not 
 take place later than 10 a.m. It is 
 difficult to estimate distances, where 
 there are no roads, and where the 
 bridle-paths wind round the base of 
 mountains. In this day’s journey 
 moreover a stream bordered by morass 
 has to be frequently forded. Captain 
 Burton estimates the distance be¬ 
 tween Reykjavik and ThingveUir at 
 24 direct geographical miles, and 35 
 indirect statute miles. The journey 
 lasts from 8 to 10 hrs. 
 
 For a few miles out of Reyk¬ 
 javik there is a made road; the Laxa 
 is forded, and the path winds up¬ 
 wards among hills with small lakes 
 on either side. Looking N.W. we 
 see the Sneefells Jokull ; nearly due 
 N. the Esja mountains ; and to the 
 W. the FaxafjorSr. Soon after the 
 Hafravatn, the largest of the neigh¬ 
 bouring lakes, is skirted, and we enter 
 the Seljadalr. A halt is usually 
 made here for luncheon, and to pas¬ 
 ture the ponies. 
 
 A stream, bordered on either side 
 by marshy ground, is presently reach¬ 
 ed, which is nowhere more than knee- 
 deep in summer. In order to avoid 
 the morass, the bed of the stream is 
 followed, and the latter has to be 
 forded some 20 or 25 times. Pro¬ 
 gress is here very slow. The bridle¬ 
 path is again taken up, and we skirt 
 the S. and S.E. base of Grimmans- 
 feU. We are now about half way to 
 ThingveUir. 
 
 As we proceed, two lakes, Leiru- 
 vogsvatn and Geldingatjorn, are pas¬ 
 sed on the left, and we enter a stony 
 barren waste called the MosfellsheiSi 
 (Mossfell-heath), which it takes at 
 least 1J hr. to cross. The Thing- 
 vallavatn, the largest of Icelandic 
 lakes, covering an area of nearly 
 40 square miles, comes into view; 
 and we presently halt at the edge 
 of a vast rift, more than 2 m. in 
 length — the Almannagja, or All- 
 Mensrift. We descend by a steep 
 causeway to the bottom of it, ford 
 the Oxara, and find ourselves close to 
 the ThingveUir Church and par¬ 
 sonage. 
 
 2nd day. ThingveUir (Ut. Plains 
 of the Council, because the Icelandic 
 Parliament met here for several cen¬ 
 turies) is a depressed space nearly 
 4 m. long by 4 m. broad, enclosed for 
 a portion of its length between two 
 volcanic rifts—the Almannagja and 
 the Hrafnagja (Raven’s Rift)—pro¬ 
 bably the result of subsidence. They 
 run N.E. between ThingveUir Lake 
 and Armannsfell, and enclose a tract 
 
Iceland. 
 
 135 
 
 ROUTE 2. -LOGBERG ; GEYSIRS. 
 
 full of small crevasses, and covered 
 by a very scanty vegetation. Be¬ 
 tween the two main rifts, a great 
 fissure divides into two branches, 
 enclosing an oval mass of rock, called 
 the Logberg, or Hill of Laws. It is 
 surrounded on all sides by deep vol¬ 
 canic crevasses containing clear water, 
 and upon it formerly the Althing, 
 or Parliament, assembled, while the 
 people stood over against them on 
 the Allmen’s rift, and watched the 
 proceedings. 
 
 The traveller will find abundant 
 occupation for a day in visiting places 
 of interest in and around Thingvellir: 
 the waterfall to the N.W., formed by 
 the Oxara; the lake to the S.W.; 
 the Logberg, and the church. 
 
 In 1878 the church was used for 
 sleeping quarters, as was then uni¬ 
 versally the case throughout Iceland ; 
 but owing to the unseemly behaviour 
 of some travellers in 1879 in this 
 church, the Bishop has refused to 
 allow them ever again to be used for 
 the purpose. The priest of Thingvellir 
 has enlarged his house, however, and 
 has fair accommodation for several 
 persons ; if this is insufficient, a tent 
 must he erected in the churchyard. 
 Capital char may be caught in the 
 lake, and this usually forms a staple 
 dish at Thingvellir. 
 
 The Thingvellir Church is a tarred 
 wooden structure, 21 ft. long, 15J 
 ft. broad, and 12 ft. high, con¬ 
 taining three windows on each side. 
 It might contain 50 people. The 
 pulpit dates from 1683, and the altar- 
 piece, which represents a Last Supper, 
 is old. In the churchyard there is 
 an Ellstone, a block of vesicular lava 
 4 ft. 9 in. in height, upon the east 
 face of which six lines are traced. 
 It is said that formerly these served 
 as standards of measure. They are 
 respectively 21, 10|, 8, 7, 5, and 4 
 in. in length. 
 
 Near the S. extremity of the Thing- 
 vallavatn there is a range of hills, 
 the highest of which is Hengill (a 
 beetling crag). Columns of steam 
 
 rise from different points upon its 
 flanks, and a number of hot mineral 
 springs are found in the vicinity. 
 
 3rd day. Thingvellir to the Gey- 
 sirs. About 38 m. 8 to 10 hrs., 
 including stoppages for luncheon 
 and to feed the ponies. The start 
 should take place not later than 9 
 a.m. Bridle path very rough. Pro¬ 
 gress slow at first. Cross middle 
 crevasse called Hajlagja; then eastern 
 rift, the HrafnagjA; enter a bed of 
 old lava; path ascends to over 500 
 ft.; three peaks visible on the left, 
 the Kdlfstindar (Calf peaks). Enter 
 Laugardalr (Hot-spring dale) ; halt 
 in a grassy valley to feed the ponies; 
 push on to a farm-house near the 
 Laugarvatn; halt for luncheon, and 
 to visit the hot springs on the border 
 of the lake. A good view of Hekla 
 is sometimes obtained from this 
 point. 
 
 After leaving Laugarvatn farm, we 
 cross a streamlet; leave MtiSdalr on 
 the left, and arrive at the Bruara (the 
 river of the bridge), a river which is 
 shallow except in the centre of its bed, 
 where there is a deep volcanic cre¬ 
 vasse into which the waters from 
 either side fall. The rift is crossed 
 by a few wooden planks, over which 
 the ponies fearlessly walk. During 
 floods the bridge is covered by several 
 feet of water, and the river must then 
 be crossed by a boat, a little distance 
 further down the stream. 
 
 A stretch of rough country now 
 leads by the southern base of Bjarn- 
 arfell to Laugarfjall; a morass is 
 crossed, and a small affluent of the 
 Tungufljdt forded. The Laug farm 
 is seen on rising ground above, and 
 a few minutes later the steaming 
 Geysir fields come into view. 
 
 The tent should be pitched be¬ 
 tween the Great Geysir and the 
 Strokkr. 
 
 ith day (and perhaps the 5 111 
 and 6th) will be spent in the 
 vicinity of the geysirs, awaiting an 
 eruption of the Great Geysir; irritat¬ 
 ing the Strokkr by doses of turf, 
 
136 
 
 ROUTE 2. -THE GREAT GEYSIR ; BLESI. 
 
 visiting the smaller geysirs, hot 
 springs, mud pools, and extinct gey¬ 
 sirs, and examining the rocks in the 
 vicinity. A capital bird’s-eye view 
 of the geysir fields is given in Baring 
 Gould’s Iceland, its Scenes and Sagas, 
 and in Coles’ Summer Travelling in 
 Iceland, while Prof. Bunsen, of Hei¬ 
 delberg, has examined the principal 
 geysirs from the scientific standpoint, 
 and has explained their action. They 
 are situated at the base of a bill of 
 trachyte in the midst of a marsh of 
 hot mud, which is roughly 500 yards 
 in length (N.E. by S.W.) by 150 in 
 breadth. Altogether there are nearly 
 50 hot springs at Haukadalr (Hawk- 
 dale), some active, like the Great 
 Geysir and Strokkr, others tranquil 
 pools of boiling water, and others 
 again full of boiling mud, coloured 
 blue, or black, or red. 
 
 The Great Geysir issues from a 
 siliceous mound of its own making, 
 raised 30 ft. above the surrounding 
 plain; the basin at the summit is 
 nearly circular, 66 ft. by 58, and 4 ft. 
 in depth; the tube in the centre is 
 10 ft. in diameter and 82 ft. deep. 
 On the N. side of the mound a 
 rivulet of warm and very soft water 
 carries away the overflow. If the 
 day is moderately warm, this fur¬ 
 nishes a delicious open-air warm 
 bath. The Great Geysir is very 
 uncertain; generally an eruption 
 takes place once in three days, al¬ 
 though it is said that people have 
 waited for seven, and even a fort¬ 
 night in vain. Its power is evidently 
 dying out. At the end of the last 
 century it erupted six times daily. 
 Usually a concussion of the ground, 
 and loud subterranean noises herald 
 an eruption. “ Five strokes under¬ 
 ground were the signal, then an 
 overflow wetting every side of the 
 mound. Presently a dome of water 
 rose in the centre of the basin and fell 
 again, immediately to be followed by 
 a fresh bell, which sprang into the 
 air full 40 ft. high, accompanied by 
 a roaring burst of steam. Instantly 
 
 Section II. 
 
 the fountain began to play with the 
 utmost violence, a column rushed up 
 to the height of 90 or 100 ft. against 
 the grey night sky with mighty 
 volumes of white steam cloud rolling 
 about it, and swept off by the breeze 
 to fall in torrents of hot rain. Jets 
 and lines of water tore their way 
 through the cloud, or leaped high 
 above its domed mass. The earth 
 trembled and throbbed during the 
 explosion; then the column sank, 
 started up again, dropped once more, 
 and seemed to be sucked back into 
 earth.” ( Baring Gould.) 
 
 The Strokkr (Churn) Geysir is 44 
 ft. in depth, and 9 it. in diameter at 
 the top; the tube gradually con¬ 
 tracts until at 27 ft. from the mouth 
 it has a diameter of only 19 in. 
 Water may ordinarily be seen vio¬ 
 lently boiling about 8 ft. below 
 the mouth. By putting two or 
 three score of large pieces of turf 
 into the Stokkr, the narrow tube 
 is blocked up, and an eruption 
 speedily follows; the turf, churned 
 up into mud, is ejected to a consider¬ 
 able height (commonly exceeding 
 that of the Great Geysir), and 
 jets of water follow in girandoles 
 in rapid succession. The display 
 sometimes lasts for 20 minutes, often 
 for 10. 
 
 Blesi is a double pool of hot water, 
 filling a cavernous structure, lined 
 with pale pink siliceous sinter. It 
 stands about a dozen yards to the N. 
 of the Great Geysir. Meat may be 
 capitally boiled in it, and it furnishes 
 the hot water for coffee and the 
 evening grog. Interesting specimens 
 of Geyserite and Palagonite may be 
 obtained from the geysir fields and 
 the rocks to the N. 
 
 5th day. Haukadalr to Gullfoss 
 and Hruni. Two and a half or three 
 hour’s ride nearly due W. from the 
 Geysir fields brings us to the fine 
 Gullfoss (Gold-fall) waterfall, where 
 the river Hvita falls from two oppo¬ 
 site sides into a cleft. The river 
 immediately above the fall descends 
 
Iceland. 
 
 137 
 
 ROUTE 2. —HRUNI ; HEKLA. 
 
 somewhat rapidly over a series of 
 terraces, and narrows just before it 
 plunges into the crevasse. The 
 waterfall itself and the surrounding 
 scenery are very fine, and should on 
 no account be omitted from the tra¬ 
 veller’s programme. 
 
 After leaving the Gullfoss, a S.W. 
 route is followed, between the Tun- 
 gufljot and the Hvita, as far as 
 Brasiratunga Farm, where the Hvita 
 must be crossed by a ferry boat, while 
 the ponies swim. The Hvita, or 
 White Eiver, is a broad and deep 
 glacier river, which flows from the 
 Hvitavatn, and enters the sea near 
 Eyrarbakki. A good deal of time is 
 occupied on the banks of this river 
 in saddling and unsaddling the 
 ponies, and transferring all the bag¬ 
 gage to the boat. Afterwards the 
 Minni Laxa has to be forded, and a 
 swamp to be crossed. A weary day’s 
 march brings us at length to Hruni 
 (Ruins), where the hospitable priest, 
 Johann Briem, is sure to receive the 
 traveller very cordially. 
 
 6th day. Hruni to Galtalcekr 
 Farm. —The valley of the Laxa is 
 followed, and the river presently 
 forded; 2 hrs. later the banks of 
 the Thjdrsa (Bull River) are reached, 
 and the river crossed by a boat while 
 the ponies swim. An hour and a 
 half’s ride nearly due S. brings us 
 to Stdruvellir (Stourfields), the hos¬ 
 pitable priest of which hamlet will 
 tell the traveller all the local news 
 and the latest particulars as to the 
 condition of Hekla, the amount of 
 snow, the prevalence of mists, the 
 condition of the rivers, &c. A brisk 
 ride over a flat plain strewn with 
 pumice and volcanic ash, leads us to 
 Galtalcelcr Farm (Hogbrook), our 
 quarters for the night. Here the 
 tents are pitched, and a guide 
 secured for the morrow. Accommo¬ 
 dation moderate. 
 
 [Those travellers who wish to visit 
 the scene of the eruption of 1878, 
 which took place about 4 m. to the 
 N.E. of Hekla, will take a guide from 
 
 Galtalcekr, and spend the next day 
 in exploring the new craters and lava 
 fields.] 
 
 8th day. Ascent of Hekla.— 
 (Hekla, hooded, in allusion to its 
 mantle of snow.) The start should 
 be made not later than 9 a.m. A 
 guide must be procured from the 
 Niefrholt (Birch-copse) Farm (5 or 6 
 kroners). The ascent occupies about 
 5 hrs. The highest point (5108 
 feet) is the N.E. wall of the 
 northernmost crater. The follow¬ 
 ing account was written by the 
 author after his ascent of the moun¬ 
 tain on August 23rd, 1878 : “ We 
 left Galtalcekr Farm at 9.40 a.m., 
 taking with us Geir Zcega, our guide 
 from Reykjavik, together with the 
 occupant of the Niefrholt Farm. 
 Having crossed the Vestri Ranga, we 
 proceeded nearly due S., passed the 
 Niefrholt Farm, near which we came 
 upon the lava of 1845, and then 
 passed over some very rough lava- 
 strewn ground covered with volcanic 
 ash, which concealed holes into which 
 the ponies sometimes stumbled and 
 fell. The lava of 1845 is covered 
 with the same moss which we 
 noticed on the old lava near the 
 crater of 1878, which causes it to 
 look much older. When the ascent 
 became steeper we left the ponies. 
 Distance to the foot of the steep in¬ 
 cline about 7 m. from Galtalcekr. 
 Followed the S. boundary of the 
 lava field of 1845, until we reached 
 a steep incline, which we ascended. 
 Crossed a small portion of the old 
 lava field, then a tract covered with 
 volcanic ashes, and finally found our¬ 
 selves at the bottom of a steep slope 
 covered with snow, beneath which 
 water was heard rushing downwards. 
 The ascent of this slope without 
 alpenstocks was not easy. Several 
 other snow slopes were crossed, and 
 we then found ourselves near the 
 crater of 1845. Above this we saw 
 a crater with a red smoking mound 
 within it; then in succession the third 
 and fourth craters, and beyond the 
 
138 
 
 ROUTE 2. -EYRARBAKKI. 
 
 Section II. 
 
 most easterly crater, a Dearly level 
 snow-covered waste full of lava 
 blocks. From the most easterly 
 extremity of this, which was reached 
 at 2.BO p.m., we looked down upon 
 the principal crater of 1878. The 
 summit of Hekla is covered with 
 much ash, sand and red pumice, 
 together with lavas of every degree 
 of compactness, from the most vesi¬ 
 cular to obsidian. The descent over 
 the snow slopes was troublesome, 
 but we regained the spot at which 
 we had left the ponies at 5 p.m. 
 Hekla was ascended for the first time 
 in 1770. The difficulties of the 
 ascent have been much exaggerated 
 subsequently. It is really a very 
 easy mountain to climb, and the only 
 thing to be dreaded is the descent of 
 a thick fog while one is on the highest 
 slopes of the mountain.” 
 
 9th day. Galtalcekr Farm to 
 Eyrarbakki. —A very long day’s 
 journey. The start should be made 
 at 8 a.m. The first rest will be made 
 at Storuvellir, where a guide to the 
 other side of the Thjorsa should be 
 procured. The river will be crossed 
 nearly 20 m. S.W. of Storuvellir, near 
 Kalfholt; and a halt will be made 
 at ViUingaholt , on the W. side of the 
 river. If the start has been late, or 
 the ponies are tired, it will be well to 
 rest here for the night. If not push 
 on to Eyrarbakki (Beach-bank), 
 which is about 16 m. from Villinga- 
 holt. 
 
 10th day. Will probably be 
 spent at Eyrarbakki, where there is 
 a capital store, the cultivated and 
 genial proprietor of which will give 
 the traveller any information he may 
 require. 
 
 11th day. Eyrarbakki fo Reykir. 
 4 hrs. About 12 m. The Olfusa is 
 crossed by a ferry at Laugardselir. A 
 fine view of Hekla and the Southern 
 Jokulls is seen to the E. if the day 
 be clear. After crossing the river 
 we skirt the southern base of Ingolfs- 
 fjall, and soon after arrive at 
 Reykir, sometimes known as the 
 
 Geysir in Olfusa. Accommodation 
 bad. Weather frequently rainy, even 
 in the best seasons. Here there 
 formerly existed geysirs as at Hau- 
 kadalr, and 100 years ago they were 
 in full activity, rising to a height of 
 70 ft.; but in consequence of an 
 earthquake the geysirs became mere 
 hot wells of water, into the clear 
 depths of which one may look with¬ 
 out fear of a scalding due to a 
 sudden eruption. A variety of sili¬ 
 ceous sinters may be found in the 
 vicinity, and the place is interesting 
 as furnishing an example of old 
 geysir action. We are now due S. 
 of the Thingvellir lake, and about 7 
 m. from it. Ingolfsfjall is on the E., 
 Skalafell on the W., and the broad 
 mouth of Olfusa nearly due S. 
 
 12 th day. Reykir to Reykjavik. 
 A ride of 8 or 9 hrs. We ascend 
 from Reykir to the Hellishev&i (Cave- 
 heath), an elevated bleak tract of 
 lava, worn and furrowed by ice, 
 water and wintry storms. When the 
 writer crossed it in August 1879, a 
 fearful storm of wind and rain swept 
 over its bare surface. The rain was 
 rendered almost horizontal by the 
 wind, and at intervals masses of fog 
 drifted over the scene. We descend 
 on the W. side by the HellisskarS 
 (Cave-pass), and return to Reykjavik 
 by way of the MossfellheiSi. 
 
 It is obvious that although under 
 favourable circumstances this round 
 may be accomplished in 12 days, 
 14 or 16 will generally be prefer¬ 
 able. It is the route which will find 
 most favour with the majority of 
 travellers, as it combines three of 
 Iceland’s greatest lions—Thingvellir, 
 the Geysirs, and Hekla; and it fur¬ 
 nishes every variety of scenery:— 
 mountains, rivers, plains, elevated 
 lava tracts, morasses and geysir 
 fields. Those who desire to have a 
 general glimpse of Iceland, and who 
 wish to return by the next boat, can¬ 
 not do better than follow this route 
 under the guidance of Geir Zcega. 
 
Iceland. 
 
 ROUTE 3. —THE S.W. PENINSULA. 
 
 139 
 
 EOUTE 3. 
 
 THE S.W. PENINSULA. REYKJAVIK 
 TO KRISUVIK, STA<5r, CAPE BEYK- 
 JANES, KIRK JUV OGR, KALFATJORN, 
 HAFNARFJOR$R, REYKJAVIK. 
 
 (Between 90 and 100 m.—4 days 
 3 nights.) 
 
 1st day. Beyhjavih. Start not 
 later than 10 a.m. Look well to 
 waterproof arrangements. A violent 
 downpour of rain is the rule rather 
 than the exception among the 
 sulphur mountains of Krisuvik. 
 
 2| hrs. Hafnarfjorbr (Haven- 
 firth), a small trading village with 
 less than 500 inhabitants, at the head 
 of the fjord which bears its name. 
 Small inn, where coffee and Danish 
 beer may he obtained. Excellent 
 harbour from which the Krisuvik 
 sulphur is shipped. Climate good. 
 Some travellers have asserted that 
 this ought to be the capital of Ice¬ 
 land. The Danish steamers usually 
 go from ^Reykjavik to Hafnarfjorbr, 
 returning the same day, and as the 
 coast scenery is interesting, it will 
 be well, if time permits, to make the 
 excursion. 
 
 A cold dreary ride over a very 
 rough field of old lava, with a barely 
 discernible bridle-path, leads to the 
 mountains of Krisuvik; the base of 
 Sveiluhals is skirted for a short dis¬ 
 tance, and a steep path ascended. 
 A multitude of small extinct craters 
 appear ; and as the eastern slope is 
 approached, steaming solfataras 
 come into view. 
 
 Kleifavatn (Cliff-lake), a gloomy 
 lake bordered by masses of palago- 
 nite, is seen to the N.E. The path 
 passes between a multitude of sol¬ 
 
 fataras ; the small iron-house of the 
 manager of the sulphur works next 
 appears, and afterwards the church. 
 
 Krisuvik (Crosswick). Accommo¬ 
 dation extremely bad. If it rains 
 hard, as it probably will, the tent 
 had better be pitched under the lee of 
 the church. The sulphur mines should 
 be visited the same evening, or early 
 the next morning. They are found 
 on the N.E. slopes of the Sveiluhals, 
 while the Brennisteinfjoll mines are 
 on the S.E. The sulphur accumu¬ 
 lates in cavities in the lava. Car¬ 
 bonate and sulphide of copper are 
 also found. 
 
 It is believed that 250,000 tons of 
 sulphur ore are in sight at the mines, 
 and it contains from 32 to 75 per 
 cent, of sulphur; while the copper 
 ores contain from 3J to 4 per cent. 
 A company has been started to work 
 the mines. The grand difficulty is 
 that of transport, for although Haf- 
 narfjorSr is only 14 m. distant, the 
 lava-covered country is so difficult 
 to cross that at present the sulphur 
 is conveyed on the backs of ponies 
 to the port. A railway would be a 
 very costly undertaking through such 
 a country, if not altogether imprac¬ 
 ticable. The solfataras give forth 
 exhalations of steam, sulphurous 
 acid, and sulphuretted hydrogen ; 
 the two latter decompose each other 
 with the formation of water and 
 sulphur. Burton says, “ The scene 
 is that of solfataras generally, a dis¬ 
 tempered land of disordered cuticle, 
 bright red, brass-yellow, slate-grey, 
 pink, purple, pale green, brown, 
 black, and leprous white; the water 
 is milky and slimy, and even the 
 dwarf willow and juniper cease to 
 grow.” Forty-seven sulphur beds 
 have been discovered. A full ac¬ 
 count of the deposits will be found 
 in the Journal of the Society of Arts 
 for January 17th, 1873, in a paper 
 by Mr. C. W. Vincent. A long ac¬ 
 count of Krisuvik, accompanied by 
 three coloured sketches, and a fourth 
 representing HafnarfjorSr, appears 
 
140 
 
 Section II. 
 
 ROUTE 3. — GRINDAVIK ; REYKJANES. 
 
 in Sir George Mackenzie’s fine 
 quarto, Travels in Iceland in 1810. 
 
 Reindeer are sometimes seen in 
 the vicinity of the Kleifavatn. 
 
 A short distance from the sulphur 
 cauldrons there is a very deep tarn, 
 formed in the cavity of an extinct 
 crater. 
 
 The ride from HafnarfjorSr occu¬ 
 pies 5 or 6 hrs. Care should be 
 taken that a competent guide is pro¬ 
 cured, as it is easy to lose one's way 
 among the mountains, and the writer 
 knew an instance of a party, who 
 through the ignorance of their guide 
 lost the way, and spent the night in 
 great misery on the exposed heights 
 of the Sveiluhals. 
 
 2nd day. Krisuvik should be left 
 not later than noon, for Grindavik 
 Stair. The tract is still over rough 
 lava, of which there are over 500 
 square miles in the S.W. peninsula. 
 The S. coast line is followed for the 
 latter part of the journey. Great 
 quantities of drift-wood will be seen 
 on the shore, and the writer saw in 
 1879 portions of the skeleton of a 
 large whale. Quantities of water- 
 worn stones, like those at Westward 
 Ho, line the shore. Halt will be 
 made at Stair, and the tent pitched 
 on the lee side of the church. The 
 priest, Oddr Gislason, is a man of 
 some acquirements. He speaks 
 English well, and knows many parts 
 of Iceland thoroughly. 
 
 3rd day. An early start (7 - 30 or 
 8 a.m.) should be made from Sta<5r. 
 In 2 hrs’. time, over what has been 
 called “ the worst road in Iceland,” 
 Cape Reykjanes, the S.W. point of 
 Iceland, will be reached. A great 
 fissure, the Hauksvoriugja, trends 
 from Cape Reykjanes to the N.E.; 
 the same line followed out to sea in 
 a S.W. direction passed, through the 
 Eldeyjar, or Fire-islands, from 10 to 
 12 m. from the coast. Ten eruptions, 
 the earliest in 1211, are recorded to 
 have taken place in this district. 
 During the eruption of Skaptar 
 Jokullin 1783, a submarine eruption 
 
 took place off Cape Reykjanes and 
 Eldey, the nearest of the Fire-islands, 
 was then formed. Skaptar Jokull is 
 150 m. from Reykjanes. The last 
 eruption off the cape was on May 30th, 
 1879, near the Geirfuglasker island; 
 an appearance “as of fire’’ was 
 seen out at sea, ashes fell on the 
 coast, and it was difficult to navigate 
 the sea about Reykjanes on account 
 of the smoke. 
 
 A lighthouse was opened at Cape 
 Reykjanes in 1878. It is the only 
 one in Iceland, and is lighted by 
 paraffin lamps placed in the focus 
 of parabolic reflectors. We take the 
 following from our diary under the 
 date of August 27 th, 1879, in regard 
 to this little-visited corner of Ice¬ 
 land. “The lighthouse-keeper said 
 that we were the first visitors he 
 had seen this year (and if so, prob¬ 
 ably the last also, on account of the 
 lateness of the season) ; and that he 
 had only had one visitor during the 
 previous year. No houses were seen 
 within many miles of the Cape ; and 
 the district was almost devoid of 
 vegetation. The coast scenery is 
 very fine ; the rocks are worn away 
 by the continued action of the sea 
 into caverns and natural arches, and 
 abrupt cliffs rise to a height of 500 or 
 600 ft. Snsefells Jokull, 76 m. away, 
 stood out clear against the sky; while 
 to the S.W. the Fire-islands were 
 seen. A great number of siliceous 
 springs stretch from Cape Reykjanes 
 inland. They deposit pure white 
 silica, which has been used, but not 
 with much success, for porcelain 
 making. It might be well to try it 
 for the finer kinds of glass. The 
 silica is in some cases deposited in a 
 more compact and opal-like form; 
 other deposits are coloured red and 
 purple by iron. One of the cauldrons 
 is larger than the others, and is full 
 of boiling blue mud, which continu¬ 
 ally sputters and gives off clouds of 
 steam. The rocks in the vicinity 
 are much decomposed by the hot 
 gases, and the completely decomposed 
 
Iceland. 
 
 ROUTE 4. —AKUREYRI TO REYKJAVIK. 
 
 141 
 
 rock becomes a hot, soft, whitish, or 
 red and white, tenacious mud, into 
 which the foot sinks deeply. Steam 
 hursts from the soil in many places, 
 from crevices in decomposed volcanic 
 rock, which can be found in every 
 stage of decomposition. Bunsen has 
 discussed the causes of these phe¬ 
 nomena.’’ 
 
 After leaving Cape Reykjanes the 
 W. coastline is followed to KirJcjuvogr, 
 a collection of several good farms; 
 in fact the coast between this and 
 HafnarfjorSr is perhaps the most 
 flourishing in Iceland; both the 
 pasturage and the fishing are good. 
 The district is called the Gullbringu, 
 or gold-bringing. The route is con¬ 
 tinued by Njardvik to Kalfatjom, a 
 well-to-do village with a capital 
 church and parsonage,and a most cul¬ 
 tivated and hospitable pastor, Sira St. 
 Thorarensen, who is very musical, 
 and has lately prepared anew hymnal 
 for Iceland. The parish contains 700 
 inhabitants, mostly fishermen, while 
 the annexed parish of NjarSvik con¬ 
 tains between 200 and 300. Thus the 
 two parishes together contain nearly 
 one seventh of the population of the 
 whole island. There is a service at 
 NjarSvik every third Sunday. The 
 poor are supported by their richer 
 brethren. 
 
 4 th day. Starting from Kalfatjom 
 at 10 a.m., Reykjavik is reached (by 
 way of HafnarfjorSr, where a rest is 
 taken for luncheon) by 4 p.m. 
 
 The perfect volcanic cone of Keilir 
 (1276 ft.), in the midst of the Gidl- 
 bringu Sysla, and nearly midway 
 on a line joining Kalfatjom and 
 Krisuvik, is a very conspicuous ob¬ 
 ject during the greater part of a tour 
 in the S.W. peninsula. 
 
 ROUTE 4. 
 
 AKUREYRI TO REYKJAVIK, BY WAY 
 OF B2EGISA, OXNADALIi, SILFRAS- 
 TA$IR, HERADSVOTN, ANOKULA, 
 HAUKAGIL, KALMANSTUNGA, SURT- 
 SHELLIR, THINGVELLIR. 
 
 (8 or 9 days. Approximate distance, 
 200 miles.) 
 
 Akureyri, at the head of the Eyja- 
 fjordr, is the chief village of the 
 north, and has the largest population 
 next to Reykjavik of any place in 
 Iceland, which however does not ex¬ 
 ceed 500. It is a little collection of 
 wooden houses, with a fairly good 
 church, and a very primitive inn. The 
 principal trade is in ponies, sheep, 
 and shark-liver oil, the manufacture 
 of which latter fills the air with most 
 disgusting odours. It is 58 m. S. of 
 the Arctic circle, and when drift ice 
 floats down from the N. and surrounds 
 the coast, the inhabitants have a very 
 dreary existence. Some of the Leith 
 steamers touch at Akureyri, and 
 travellers will prefer to make it the 
 starting-point for Myvatn, Askja, and 
 the N.E. district (Route 5), and will 
 also sometimes be glad to see the 
 great variety of scenery furnished by 
 the journey of 200 m. across the 
 island to Reykjavik. In any case a 
 guide should be secured by writing 
 one or two mails previously. A good 
 guide is the son of the farmer at 
 MoZruvellir, 3 lirs’. ride from the 
 town ; but the traveller should write 
 to the courteous Herra Jon A. 
 Hjaltah'n, the principal of the 
 College at MoSruvellir. Mr. Hjal- 
 talin was long the librarian of 
 the Advocates’ Library in Edin¬ 
 burgh, and he is a good English 
 scholar, and otherwise a learned man. 
 Or a letter may be sent, at least two 
 mails previously, to Herra Thor- 
 
142 
 
 Section II. 
 
 ROUTE 4. -B2EGISA ; HAUKAGIL. 
 
 grimur Gudmundsen, Reykjavik, 
 asking him to meet the writer at 
 Akureyri on such a day, with the 
 requisite number of ponies, for the 
 journey to Reykjavik. Or again 
 Herra Havsteen, Oddeyri, near 
 Akureyri, may be written to on the 
 subject of guides and ponies. 
 
 It is preferable to sleep the night 
 before starting on board the steamer. 
 If it does not remain in port, the 
 traveller must sleep at Jensen’s inn, 
 where there are 4 beds, or at a private 
 house. An early start is not neces¬ 
 sary. A good tent, and plenty of 
 provisions, and some whisky, are 
 requisites. The following is a record 
 of the journey made by the writer in 
 1879. 
 
 We sailed from Granton at 4-45 
 p.m. on August 8tli in fair weather, 
 passed between the Faroe Islands, 
 passed close to Cape Langanaes, and 
 entered the Arctic circle. Tempera¬ 
 ture of air = 52° F.; of sea water 
 near the surface, 47° F. At 4 p.m. 
 (London time) sighted Husavik; at 
 8'20 p.m. entered the EyjafjorSr, and 
 a few hours laterlet down the anchor 
 off Akureyri. 
 
 1st day. Left Akureyri at 2 p.m., 
 skirted the W. side of the EyjafjorSr, 
 going N. by a point or two W. until 
 the valley of the Horga river 
 (Horgardalr ) was reached; turned to 
 the S.W. along the valley, arrived 
 at Baegisa. Slept in church. Par¬ 
 sonage unusually large for Iceland, 
 and two-storied. Curious triptych in 
 church. 
 
 Vindheimajohull S. by E. 
 
 2nd day. Paid at Baegisa 22 kr. 
 (about 25s.) for pasturage of 20 ponies, 
 accommodation generally, and a very 
 fair breakfast for six of us. Started 
 late, traversed the Oxnadalr; scenery 
 fine ; remarkable peak, Drdngatindr, 
 near SteinstaSr. Stopped at 1 p.m. 
 to pasture the ponies. Much evi¬ 
 dence of glacial action in the 
 Oxnadalr. Stopped for an hour (6- 
 7 p.m.) about 4 m. from SilfrastaSir 
 to examine a remarkable zigzag 
 
 crevasse, through which a small 
 river flowed. Curious rocks in 
 vicinity. At 8.30 p.m. arrived at 
 SilfrastaZir. Slept in tent. Church 
 very curious ; built of wood with 6 
 ft. of turf between, and a roof 
 covered with sods. Very dirty in¬ 
 side, and hung with people’s clothes. 
 
 14th cent, crucifix over the door. 
 Lych-gate contains two bells, dated 
 1643. Old lock. Six-sided basaltic 
 column formed one of the steps. 
 
 [.Hdlar , where there is an interest¬ 
 ing church, once a cathedral, may be 
 visited from SilfrastaiSir; or the route 
 from Akureyri to ViSimyri may be 
 taken by way of Vellir and Holar.] 
 
 3 rd day. Paid at SilfrastaSir 21 
 kr. For breakfast they gave us 
 some roast lamb, a sort of rissole, 
 capital coffee and cream as usual, 
 and a bottle of some Italian wine. 
 
 Road trends to N.W. Took a guide 
 for the river HeraH&svotn (4 kr.), I 
 which is difficult to cross, especially 
 if swollen. Arrived at VtiSimyri, 
 saw to the N. the Skagafjor&r, and 
 some islands. Then bore E. to the 
 VatnsJcartS, a lake in which we 
 bathed, and where we rested 
 for luncheon from P30 till 3. 
 Crossed lava-covered hills; then 
 forded Blanda, sighted Svinavatn 
 lake, the S. extremity of which was 
 rounded, and we arrived at Anokula 
 at 8 p.m. 
 
 4 ih day. Paid at Anokula 22 
 kr. Crossed Vatnsdalsfijall, and 
 descended into the valley near 
 Hvamm by a steep mountain track. 
 Arrived at Haukagil, near Grimstun- 
 dur at 4 p.m. Accommodation good. 
 
 An excellent type of the better kind 
 of Icelandic farm. Trout-fishing in 
 the Vatnsdalsa. Basaltic dykes and 
 other geological features of interest. 
 
 The traveller is recommended to 
 stay here for several days if he has 
 time. 
 
 5th day. A very wearisome ride 
 of some 60 m. over rough lava- 
 covered highlands. The start should 
 be made as early as 5 a.m., and an 
 
Iceland. 
 
 ROUTE 5. —NORTH-EASTERN ICELAND. 
 
 143 
 
 extra guide and dog must be taken. 
 A late start may involve camping 
 out on the bare wind-swept high¬ 
 land, without hay, milk, or fire, and 
 exposed to great inclemencies. We 
 started at a good pace over a lava- 
 strewn plain, the Grimstundurhev&i, 
 which we presently exchanged for 
 the Vv&idalstunguheiH. The Eyrik’s 
 Jokull appeared comparatively close. 
 Halted by the shores of the Ar- 
 narvatn for rest and luncheon. 
 Bounded N.W. side of the Eyrik’s 
 Jokull, from which glaciers were 
 seen to be descending. Conspicuous 
 terminal moraines on N. side. 
 Entered upon another lava tract, the 
 Thorwaldslials, passed the Surtshellir 
 caves, and the Strutr mountain, and 
 arrived at Kalmanstunga between 
 8 and 9 p.h., having been more than 
 14 hrs. on the journey. Fine view 
 of Geitland's Jokull. Slept in tent. 
 Accommodation at Kalmangstunga 
 very bad. Farm-house extremely 
 dirty. 
 
 6th day. Remained at Kalman¬ 
 stunga to rest the ponies, and to 
 visit the Surtshellir caves, a few miles 
 distant. The caves are vast tunnels 
 in the lava, the floors of which are 
 covered with ice near the entrance, 
 while in many places large icicles 
 hang from the roof. The floor of 
 the largest becomes more and more 
 rough and rugged as you proceed, 
 and at the furthest point to which it 
 is possible to penetrate without 
 difficulty, there is a kind of cairn, 
 upon which various coins are placed. 
 Several smaller caves are in the 
 immediate vicinity. Returned by 
 the valley of the NorSlingafljot. 
 
 7th day. A ride of nearly 40 m. 
 to Thingvellir necessitates an early 
 start. Paid at Kalmanstunga 51 
 kr. (£2 17s.), an exorbitant 
 
 charge, although it included 10 
 kr. for a lamb (which was cooked 
 so disgustingly that we could 
 not eat it), and 6 kr. for the 
 guide to the Surtshellir caves—the 
 farmer himself. Started at 5 a.m. ; 
 
 passed between Ok and the Geit- 
 land’s Jokull, over a rough lava 
 tract—the Kaldidalr. A piercing 
 wind descended from the Jokulls. 
 At 10-30 a.m. stopped at Brunnar, 
 near a small lake; Skjaldbreii in 
 full view for most of the way. 
 Later in the day we rounded the E. 
 base of Armansfell, and entered the 
 Thingvellir valley. Slept in a tent 
 in the churchyard. 
 
 8 th day. Thingvellir to Reykjavik, 
 as in Route 2. 
 
 Baring Gould, Iceland, its Scenes 
 and Sagas (1863), has graphically 
 described some of the scenery of this 
 Route. 
 
 ROUTE 5. 
 
 NORTH-EASTERN ICELAND. AKUREYR1. 
 LJOSAVATN. MDLI. GOSaFOSS. 
 HUSAVIK. OXAHVER. AS. ASBYRGI. 
 REYKJABLliS. DETTIFOSS. MYVATN. 
 HVERFJALL. SKUTUSTA$IR. SVAR- 
 TARKOT. ASKJA. AKCREYRI. 
 
 (About 3 weeks. Approximately 
 250 m. Consult Burton, Watts, 
 and W. G. Lock. The route of 
 the latter has been taken in the 
 following description.) 
 
 1st day. Akureyri (Route 4) to 
 Ljosavatn. The range of hills 
 (2300 ft.) to the E. of Akureyri are 
 crossed, the Fnj6ska forded, and the 
 lake soon comes into view. Ljosavatn 
 contains plenty of trout, and ducks 
 and wild geese may be shot in the 
 autumn. Accommodation good at a 
 
144 
 
 Section II. 
 
 ROUTE 5. -HUSAVIK ; DETTIFOSS. 
 
 farm-house which lies to the S.E. of 
 the lake. Remains of old craters and 
 volcanic debris in the neighbourhood. 
 
 2nd day. Ljosavatn to Muli by 
 way of the Goiafoss. A ride over 
 comparatively level moorland leads 
 to the river Skjdlfandafljot, near the 
 GoSafoss. The fall is picturesque, 
 but scarcely grand. Half a mile 
 from the GoSaf'oss there is a second 
 fall, but of only 15 ft.—the Geita- 
 foss; while 5 m. lower the river 
 once more falls in the Ullarfoss. 
 There is good shooting and fishing 
 in the neighbourhood. After leaving 
 the Skjalfandafljot, a chain of hills 
 will have to be crossed, and Muli, to 
 the N. of the Vestmannsvatn, is 
 presently reached. 
 
 3rd day. Muli to Husavik. The 
 route lies between the Skjalfandafljot 
 and the Laxa, through Nes, to the 
 N. of which there are curious lava 
 pillars, and cones. Some of the 
 latter have openings at the base as 
 well as above, and are used as 
 sheepfolds. The Laxa is forded 
 between Nes and the farm Laxa- 
 myri. W. G. Lock says : “ This farm 
 is the richest in all Iceland, and the 
 newly-erected farm-house is wholly 
 of wood in the Norwegian style. 
 The farmer declines to receive 
 travellers; and it will be as well, 
 perhaps, to mention that English¬ 
 men are not very well received in 
 this district, thanks to a defaulting 
 and bankrupt English sulphur¬ 
 mining company, whose resident 
 agent quitted the country without 
 settling the debts he had contracted 
 with the people here.” From 
 Laxamyri to Husavik is an hrs.’ ride. 
 There is a small inn. Both the 
 Danish steamers and those of Messrs. 
 Sliinon call at Husavik several times 
 in the summer. Herra GuSjoknsson 
 is the only merchant. 
 
 4ith day. The Uxahver, or North¬ 
 ern Geysir, is 3 hrs.’ ride from Laxa¬ 
 myri, and may either be visited from 
 that place or from Husavik. An ox 
 is said to have once fallen into it, and 
 
 afterwards to have been ejected 
 hence the name Ox-spring. It is a 
 geysir which gushes from a basin 
 about 10 ft. in diameter, as a column 
 of water 6 to 10 ft. in height by 4 ft. 
 in diameter. Only a few minutes 
 elapse between two eruptions. There 
 are many other geysirs in the im¬ 
 mediate vicinity, of all sizes, none of 
 which spout to any height. There 
 is a farm at Reykir, close to the 
 springs, where the ponies can be left, 
 and coffee can be obtained. Return 
 to Husavik. 
 
 5th day. Husavik to Hringsversh- 
 vylft, on the coast to the N.E. 
 Curious beds of Surtarbrandr. Start 
 early. Return to Husavik. 
 
 6th day. Husavik to As. This 
 route leads due E. of Husavik at 
 starting, and afterwards trends S. 
 Interesting records of volcanic phe¬ 
 nomena will be noted, particularly a 
 number of parallel rifts. After rest¬ 
 ing at GarSr, Asbyrgi, a remarkable 
 triangular valley surrounded by pre¬ 
 cipitous cliffs, will be reached. A 
 small forest of birch flourishes within 
 the enclosure, the home of numerous 
 coveys of grouse. Accommodation 
 at As farm not good, but people 
 obliging. 
 
 1th day. As to ReykjahlvS, by 
 way of the HljoZahlettar and the 
 Dettifoss. Start early. The HljoiSa- 
 klettar are precipitous cliffs which 
 furnish a fine echo, and there are 
 groups of craters in the vicinity. 
 The scenery along the valley of the 
 Jokulsa—a mighty river draining the 
 N.E. flanks of the Yatna Jokull—is 
 very fine. Svinadalr farm for rest 
 and luncheon, on leaving which, two 
 waterfalls, the Vigabjargsfoss and 
 the Hafragilsfoss, will be passed, 
 and a gorge, through which the 
 Jokulsa passes, and later we arrive at 
 
 The Dettifoss, the most celebrated 
 of the Icelandic waterfalls, where the 
 Jokulsa throws itself over a mass of 
 columnar basalt, and falls into a 
 chasm 200 ft. in depth. Baring 
 Gould writes: “ I have no hesitation 
 
Iceland. 
 
 145 
 
 ROUTE 5. -MYVATN ; SVARTARKOT. 
 
 in saying that Dettifoss is not only I 
 the finest sight in Iceland, but is 
 quite unequalled in Europe: it 
 amply repays the toil of a journey to 
 it in its fastnesses . . . The wreaths 
 of water sweeping down, the frenzy 
 of the confined streams where they 
 meet, shooting into each other from 
 either side at the apex of an angle; 
 the wild rebound when they strike 
 a head of rock, lurching out halfway 
 down; the fitful gleam of battling 
 torrents obtained through a veil of 
 eddying vapour; the geysir spouts 
 which blow up about 70 ft. from 
 holes whence basaltic columns have 
 been shot by the force of the descend¬ 
 ing water; the blasts of spray which 
 rush upwards and burst into fierce 
 showers on the brink, feeding rills 
 which plunge over the edge as soon 
 as they are born; the white writhing 
 vortex below, with now and then an 
 ice-green wave tearing through the 
 foam, to lash against the walls; the 
 thunder and bellowing of the water, 
 which make the rock shudder under 
 foot, are all stamped on my mind 
 with a vividness which it will take 
 years to efface.” 
 
 The route from the Dettifoss, takes 
 a S.W. direction, and passes over a 
 group of volcanic hills by the Nam- 
 askarS, or Solfatara pass. Myvatn 
 lake, which is the next in size to 
 Thingvallavatn, soon comes into view, 
 and the final halt is made at the 
 farm at ReykjahliZ. 
 
 There are Reindeer in this dis¬ 
 trict. Mr. W. G. Lock, who on more 
 than one occasion has successfully 
 stalked them, writes, “ If the travel¬ 
 lers wish to get a shot at one of these 
 animals, they should, if here in the 
 month of August, strike due W. 
 from the Dettifoss for a lake near a 
 mountain named Eilifr (the eternal). 
 S. W. of this lake is an abandoned 
 ruinous farmhouse, known as the 
 Hlv&arhseli (Ledge-hall), wherein 
 the author has frequently passed a 
 night, as it is right in the heart of 
 the habitat of a herd of reindeer.” 
 
 ^Denmark.'] 
 
 I 8th day. The numerous Solfatara 
 ! around ReykjahliS may be visited. 
 They resemble those at Krisuvik 
 (Route 3), and are situated in a plain 
 of hot viscous clay and mud. The 
 boiling mud-cauldrons lie on the E. 
 side of the plain. The mud is blue 
 or black, and steam constantly escapes 
 from it, ejecting the spray to a height 
 of several feet. On the S. is the 
 largest crater of the Myvatn district. 
 It is 700 ft. in height, and 1600 above 
 the level of the sea. 
 
 9th day. From ReykjahliS to 
 Leirhnukr, Krafla, and the Hrafntin- 
 nuhryggr. 3 hrs.’ ride to Leirhnukr , 
 on the W. side of which some re¬ 
 markable evidences of former volca¬ 
 nic action will be seen. The volcano 
 erupted in 1725,1727,1728 and 1729. 
 There are two large craters on the 
 W. side of Krafla. The Hrafntinnuh- 
 ryggr is a ridge of volcanic rocks, 
 partly formed of obsidian. 
 
 10 th day. An excursion may be 
 made to the lava flow of 1875 in the 
 Myvatns Orcefi, 4 hrs.’ ride to the E. 
 of ReykjahliS, returning in the 
 evening. But if the traveller has 
 already visited the lava-streams 
 around Hekla, it is not likely that he 
 will care to see these. 
 
 11th day. ReykjahliS to Skutu- 
 staiir. Good accommodation at the 
 priest’s house. Trout fishing and 
 grouse shooting. The route leads 
 through a wild volcanic district 
 
 12 th day. SkutustaSir to Svar- 
 tarkot —6 hrs’. ride. Kraka to be 
 forded. Grouse plentiful. Accom¬ 
 modation moderate. 
 
 13th day. At Svartarkot rest 
 ponies, in preparation for a hard 
 day’s work on the morrow. If 
 ponies can be hired from the farmer, 
 ride to the Eldeyjafoss, a fine water¬ 
 fall on the Skjdlfandafljot , S.W. of 
 Svartarkot. 
 
 11th day. From Svartarkot to 
 Askja. (Consult Askja: Iceland’s 
 largest Volcano. By Win. Geo. Lock. 
 1881). Mr. Lock recommends sleep 
 all day, and a start at 6 p.m., so as 
 L 
 
146 ROUTE 5. 
 
 to commence the ascent of the moun¬ 
 tain at sunrise, and have all the day 
 for exploration. The journey across 
 the desert OddSahraun, ascent of 
 Askja, and descent into the crater, 
 occupies 11 hrs., to which 4 hrs. of 
 hard work must he added for crossing 
 the floor of the crater to the site of 
 the eruption of 1875. Einar, the 
 farmer at Svartarkot, must be taken 
 as guide. The charge for himself 
 and two ponies is 20 kr. (£1 2s. 
 6d.). Only good ponies should be 
 taken, and sacks of hay must be 
 carried for them, and plenty of food 
 for the travellers also. 
 
 An hour’s ride over moorland leads 
 to the SutSra, the course of which is 
 followed for 4 m., and soon after 
 quitting the river, the lava desert is 
 entered. It is about 1500 ft. above 
 the sea, and is made up of lavas of 
 all ages. After 6 hrs. of slow and 
 weary transit over the (5da$ahraun, 
 the base of Askja is reached. The 
 ascent winds gently upwards until a 
 height of 3500 ft. has been attained ; 
 it then becomes steeper, and the rim 
 of the crater is crossed by JonsskartS, 
 a pass usually filled with rotten ice. 
 On attaining the highest point, the 
 vast crater is seen several hundred 
 feet below. The circumference is be¬ 
 tween 17 and 18 m., and the area at 
 least 23 square to., and the rim of the 
 crater rises from 800 to 1500 ft. above 
 the floor. The mean height of the 
 volcano approaches 5000 ft. The 
 peaks are snow-clad for 10 months of 
 the year, and there is a glacier to the 
 E. of the pass, 4 m. long by 1 m. wide. 
 The floor of the crater is covered 
 with lava of various ages, with 
 pumice erupted in 1875, and with the 
 waters of a warm lake 5 m. in cir¬ 
 cumference. It is very rough walk¬ 
 ing across the lava, and progress 
 cannot be made at a greater rate than 
 1 m. in an hour. A pumice crater 
 250 ft. above the floor rises in the S.E. 
 of the main crater. 600 ft, below it, 
 there is a lake formed by subsidence 
 in 1875. S.E. of the lake there is a 
 
 .—askja. Section II. 
 
 deep gorge, bounded by precipices 
 600 ft. in height. 
 
 Having left Svartarkot at 6 p.m. 
 and travelled through the night, if 
 all goes well, the traveller will find 
 himself at the foot of the pass about 
 5 a.m. of the 
 
 15th day. Suppose that 12 hrs. 
 are given to the exploration of the 
 crater—ending at 5 p.m.— the moun¬ 
 tain can be descended before night¬ 
 fall, and the return journey to Svar¬ 
 tarkot will take place through the 
 night. The travellers will arrive at 4 
 or 5 a.m. of the 
 
 1 6th day at Svartarkot Farm, 
 after an absence of about 36 hrs., and 
 will be glad to turn in for a long 
 sleep for most of the day. 
 
 It must not be forgotten that violent 
 snowstorms, sandstorms, and fierce 
 winds sometimes prevail on Askja, 
 even in summer; fogs are also preva¬ 
 lent, and the weather must be care¬ 
 fully watched before setting out for 
 the mountain. Einar must particu¬ 
 larly be consulted. Prof. Johnstrup’s 
 party were snowed up in July 1876 
 in the crater of Askja, by a snow¬ 
 storm which lasted 36 hrs. Mr. Lock 
 witnessed a sandstorm within the 
 crater, in which a column of sand 
 about 200 ft. in height was whirled 
 up in the air. 
 
 17^ day. Svartarkot to Stdru- 
 vellir. A short journey. The Skjal- 
 fandafljot is forded near Lunda- 
 brekka church. 
 
 18th day. Stdruvellir to Akureyri 
 by way of Ljdsavatn. If it is desired 
 to return by SeyZisfjorZr (4 dys.), the 
 route from Svartarkot will be Svar¬ 
 tarkot, Skutustaiir, ReykjalTS, Grim- 
 staiir, MoSrudalr, Mofteigr, Sey- 
 %isfjor%r. 
 
Iceland. 
 
 ROUTE 6.—THE 
 
 ROUTE 6. 
 
 THE N.W. PENINSULA. 
 
 This is a tour which occupies 
 about a month. It offers no par¬ 
 ticular attractions to the traveller, 
 and we should not recommend any 
 one to undertake it, unless he has 
 very special reasons for doing so. 
 Consult Shepherd’s North- West 
 Peninsula of Iceland (1867), and 
 W. G. Lock's Guide to Iceland 
 (1882). The general arrangements 
 of the tour as described in these 
 books are as follows :— 
 
 1st day. Reykjavik to Beynivellir. 
 
 2nd day. Reynivellir to Lundr, 
 visiting by the way the Glymrfoss, 
 caused by the small river Botnsa 
 falling into a chasm more than 1000 
 ft. in depth. 
 
 3rd day. Lundr to Beykholt. —An 
 interesting spot, both historically and 
 otherwise. Snorri Sturluson, the 
 author of the prose Edda, lived here, 
 and his bath, a circular construction 
 of masonry, 15 ft. in diameter, is 
 still shown. There are numerous 
 hot springs at Reykholt, as the name 
 implies, and geysirs of all sizes and 
 degrees of activity. 
 
 4 th day. Reykholt to Stafholt. 
 The Hvita has to be forded. There 
 is good fishing in the vicinity. 
 
 5th day. Stafholt to StdZarhraun. 
 Three rivers will have to be forded. 
 Bad bogs exist in this part of Ice¬ 
 land, and the discomforts of travel¬ 
 ling are sometimes great. 
 
 6th day. StaSarhraun to Mikla- 
 holt. Three rivers to be forded. 
 Eldborg passed on the left. This 
 volcano is said to have been in 
 eruption about the time when Ice¬ 
 land was first colonised at the end of 
 the 9th century, Campbell says the 
 
 N.W. PENINSULA. 147 
 
 crater is about 400 yards in diameter, 
 and 200 ft. deep. 
 
 1th day. Miklaholt to Bu&ir, by 
 the shore of the FaxafjorSr, stopping 
 for rest and luncheon at Sta%asta%r. 
 
 8th day. Bu8ir to Laugabrekka. 
 Basaltic caves of Stapi should be 
 visited. Forbes ( Iceland , 1860) 
 says: “ The approach to Stapi is 
 wild and picturesque; streams of 
 lava, as on the western side, have 
 flowed down from the many mouths 
 of the Jokul, but all are very old; 
 indeed there has been no eruption 
 since the memory of man in this 
 promontory; a few ‘warm waters’ 
 alone attest its slumbering powers. 
 ... At the W. extremity of the 
 terrace, in which the columns are 
 about 50 ft. high, and regular in form, 
 are some singularly irregular and 
 elongated blocks standing out in the 
 sea. They are of the same formation, 
 but in horizontal instead of perpen¬ 
 dicular layers.” 
 
 Laugabrekka is the best place 
 perhaps for the ascent of the Snse- 
 fells Jokull. Heavy snowstorms, 
 and fogs have hitherto baffled all 
 attempts to reach the summit. 
 
 9 th day. Laugabrekka to Olafs- 
 vik round the base of the Snsefells 
 Jokull. 
 
 10 th day. Olafsvik to Grundar- 
 fjord, along the S. shores of the 
 BreiSiforSr. 
 
 11 th day. Grundarfjord to Helga- 
 fell. Lock says, “The Holy-fell is sit¬ 
 uated on a peninsula jutting north¬ 
 ward into the BreiSifjorS, which is 
 connected with the mainland by a 
 narrow isthmus between two minia¬ 
 ture fjords. In the old heathen days 
 the hill was sacred to the god Thor ; 
 and no one was allowed even to gaze 
 on the holy height without first 
 having subjected himself to bodily 
 ablution. The hill itself is curious, 
 being formed of irregular columnar 
 basalt, and from its summit a fair 
 view over the Broadfjord and its 
 countless volcanio isles is obtainable. 
 This famous fell was chosen as a site 
 L 2 
 
148 
 
 OTHER ROUTES. 
 
 Section II. 
 
 for one of the earliest Christian 
 churches erected in Iceland. In the 
 Eyrbyggia Saga is a lengthy ac¬ 
 count of the intrigues, cruelties, and 
 murders of Snorri GoSi, a priest of 
 Thor, who officiated here.” 
 
 12th and 13 th days. Helgafell 
 to Styhkishdlmr. The latter is a 
 port at which the Danish steamers 
 call. Several merchants consequently 
 reside here; among them Herr 
 Clausen, who speaks English well, 
 and will give to the traveller any 
 information in his power. An ex¬ 
 cursion should be made to one or 
 more of the volcanic islands off the 
 coast. Take care before starting 
 that the boat does not leak. The 
 Icelandic boats commonly require at 
 least one man to bale them out 
 continuously. At Thorsnes, about 3 
 m. N.E. of Helgafell, there is an 
 ancient Doom-ring, and sacrificial 
 stone. 
 
 Hth day. Helgafell to BreiSa- 
 bdlstaftr. 
 
 1 5tli day. Brei<5ab61stai5rto.H/'ar8- 
 arliolt. 
 
 16 th day. HjarSarholt to Bor\ 5- 
 eyri. 
 
 nth day. BorSeyri to GuKlaugs- 
 vik, on the W. shores of the Hrutaf- 
 jorSr. 
 
 18 th day. GuSlaugsvik to Beruf~ 
 jor%r. Another Gullfoss will be seen 
 by the way. 
 
 19 th day. BerufjorSr to Kirkjuhol. 
 From this point an ascent of the 
 Gldmu Jokull (2954) may be at¬ 
 tempted. [Two or three days will 
 be required for this.] 
 
 20 th day. Kirkjuhol to Hamar. 
 Good quarters. Two hours’ distance 
 from Arrnuli, where a guide may be 
 procured for the Drangajokull. 
 
 21st day. Ascent of the Dranga- 
 jokull (2918 ft). Fully described by 
 Shepherd. 
 
 22 nd day. Hamar to Isafjor&r by 
 boat (10 hrs.). This is a port at 
 whioh the Danish steamers call. 
 There is a small inn and many 
 stores. 
 
 23 rd day. An excursion by boat 
 should be made to Os, where there 
 are deposits of lignite ( Surtarbrandr ). 
 It is mixed with shale, and contains 
 the remains of large trees. Above 
 are great masses of basalt and other 
 volcanic rock. 
 
 21th day. IsafjorSr back to 
 Hamar. 
 
 25th day. Hamar to Sta&r. 
 
 2 6th day. StaSr to Kirkjuhol on 
 the Steingrimsfjor&r. (Not to be 
 confounded with Kirkjuhol on the 
 Isafjor<5r). 
 
 27 th day. Kirkjuhol to Ospak- 
 seyri. 
 
 28th day. Ospakseyri to Bor- 
 Seyrt. 
 
 29 th day. The traveller can now 
 either return to Reykjavik direct in 
 5 days; or he can go to Haukagil, 
 and thence (Route 4) to Akureyri; 
 or he may possibly find a Scotch or 
 Danish steamer at the port bound 
 for Reykjavik, or even for Leith. 
 
 OTHER ROUTES. 
 
 Other routes than those mentioned 
 are rarely followed. If they are 
 attempted, the work becomes almost 
 akin to exploration. The interior of 
 Iceland is not much known. 
 
 1. The Sprengisandr was crossed 
 in 1876 and again in 1881, once 
 from N.E. to S.W., once in the reverse 
 direction. Starting from Husavik, 
 Mr. C. Le Neve Foster halted the 
 first night at Storuvellir; the second 
 at Isholl, on the edge of the desert ; 
 
Iceland. 
 
 OTHER ROUTES : S. COAST. 
 
 149 
 
 the third at a eamping-place called 
 KtiSagil; the fourth, near Arnar- 
 fells Jokull; the fifth, at Hagi, near 
 Hruni, when to Reykjavik was 2 
 days’ rapid riding. (This route is 
 shown by a red line on the map). 
 
 2. The S. coast may be traversed 
 if the rivers are not too much flooded. 
 The route as far as Storuvellir by 
 way of Thingvellir, Haukadalr, and 
 Hekla is described in Route 2, thence 
 we proceed by way of Brev&abolsta%ir, 
 HlHarendi , to Asar. At the latter 
 place an attempt should be made to 
 visit the remarkable volcano Kotla, 
 concerning which we have very scant 
 information, although it has fre¬ 
 quently been in a state of fearful erup¬ 
 tion. From Asar to Kdlfafell is the 
 next journey, and from Kalfafell to 
 NupstaSr, whence Mr. Watts started 
 for his famous journey across the 
 Yatna Jokull. Thence by Snazfell J 
 we reach the base of the great Orxfa 
 Jokull (6155), never yet ascended. 
 A coast line by Hof, Fell, Hollar, 
 and Stafafell will lead to Berufjord; 
 at which port the Danish steamers 
 call; or the route may be continued 
 further N. to EskifjorS, and Seydis- 
 fjorSr. (Nearly this route is traced 
 by a dotted red line on the map.) 
 
 3. Mr. W. L. Watts, in 1875, suc¬ 
 ceeded in crossing the vast tract of 
 unexplored country, some 3000 square 
 miles in extent, known as the Vatna 
 Jokull ( vide map). Starting from 
 Nupsta<5r, he made his way across the 
 Jokull to Kistufell, thence by Askja, 
 and Her&ubreffi, to ReykjahWS, and 
 
 so to Husavik. An account of his 
 very interesting adventures will be 
 found in Across the Vatna Jokull. 
 (Longmans, 1876.) 
 
 4. Another route from Reykjavik 
 to Akureyri across the Sprengisandr 
 is known as the Vatnajallavegr 
 Route. It occupies 7 days; and the 
 traveller proceeds to Haukadalr, as 
 in Route 2. Thence to the N.E. 
 base of Bldfell (camp); a point due 
 E. of Hverarvellir (camp); and the 
 third resting-place ( EyjafjarSardalr ) 
 is only 6 or 7 hrs. distant from 
 Akureyri. (Vide the red dotted line 
 on the map.) 
 
 There is still a good deal of un¬ 
 explored country in Iceland, deserts 
 and jokulls to be crossed, and virgin 
 peaks to be ascended. There is no 
 country so near home in which ex¬ 
 ploration can be so easily attempted, 
 and we recommend it to Alpine Club 
 men, and to enterprising young fel¬ 
 lows generally. If exploration is 
 really desired, let the traveller be 
 careful to read the Hints to Travellers 
 published by the Geographical 
 Society, and to provide himself with 
 a good pocket aneroid in a case, 
 and a compass, thermometers, good 
 maps, and very special appliances 
 for resisting wintry nights passed 
 upon elevated jokulls, or in the 
 midst of lava deserts, which Messrs. 
 Silver, of 67 Cornhill, will be the 
 most likely to supply. A “ Garnet 
 Wolseley ” sleeping bag is indis¬ 
 pensable. 
 
 
 Index. 
 

( 151 ) 
 
 AABENRAA. 
 
 A. 
 
 Aabenraa, 40 
 Aaby, 106 
 
 Aagaard, manor of, 107 
 Aakirkeby, go, 9? 
 
 --, church of, go 
 
 Aalbaek, 104 
 Aalborg, 101 
 Aalum, 100 
 
 Aarhuus, 97 ; cathedral, 97 ; 
 Yor Freu Kirke, 97 ; 
 lunatic asylum, 97 
 Aarup, 94 
 
 Abborebjerget Hill, 86 
 Absalon, Bishop, 50, 85 
 iEro, island of, 40 
 Agger Canal, 108 
 Aggersund, 106 
 Agriculture, 21 
 Ahl, 9 
 Ahlhede, hi 
 A igholm, 99 
 Akureyri, 141 
 
 -to Reykjavik, 141 
 
 -Ljosavatn, 147 
 
 Allinge, 92 
 Almannagja, 174 
 Almindingen, wood of, 90 
 Als, island of, 40, 45 
 Als Sund, 40, 45 
 Alster River, 29 
 Altona, 70; excursions, 70 
 
 -, stations of, 70 
 
 Altrup, hills of, 102 
 Amager, island of, 51, 70 
 Amak, 70 
 Andersen, IT. C., 47 
 Angeln, district of, 45 
 Anokula, 142 
 
 Ansgarius, the Apostle of 
 the North, 12 
 Armuli, 148 
 Army, 21 
 
 Arnavatn River, 147 
 Arnis, 78 
 
 Arresoe, lake of, 78 
 As, 144 
 Assens, 94 
 
 Asserbo Overdrew, 78 
 -, castle of, 78 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 BREI$ABOLSTA$R. 
 
 Augustenberg, 46 
 Auning, church of, 99 
 
 B. 
 
 Baalhoi Hill, iof 
 Badstuen, 77 
 Baegisa, 142 
 Bandholm, 86 
 
 -, church of, 86 
 
 Basntes, manor of, 87 
 Beistrup, 107 
 Belt, the Great, 47 
 
 -, the Little, 40 
 
 Benzon, manor of, 99 
 BernstorfT, 7 1 
 Bernfjor< 5 r, 148 
 Bessasta< 5 ir, 174 
 Birgitte Gjo, 87 
 Birkelse, manor of, 106 
 Birkende, birthplace of Hans 
 Tausen, 47 
 
 Bissen, sculptor, 41,42, 47, 57 
 Bjarnafell, 175 
 Bjerets Kro, 108 
 Bjernede, round church of, 85 
 Bjerregrav, church of, 100 
 Blanda River, 142 
 Blankensee, 70 
 Blokhusene, 106 
 Bliicher, birthplace, 77 
 Boiler, 96 
 Books, 22, 121 
 Borglum Kloster, 105 
 Bornholm, island of, 89 
 Borre, village of, 85 
 Borreby, manor of, 87 
 Borup, 100 
 Bor< 5 eyri, 148 
 Boserup wood, 87 
 Bothwell, burial-place, 84 
 Botnsa River, 147 
 Boulders, 97, 104 
 Bovbjerg, in 
 Brae< 5 ratunga farm, 177 
 Brahetrolleborg, 94 
 Bratskov, manor-house, 107 
 Breed, station of, 94 
 Bregentved, seat of Count 
 Moltke, 88 
 
 Bregninge, church of, 40 
 Brei< 5 abolsta< 5 r, 148 
 
 COPENHAGEN. 
 
 Brennisteinfj'oll mines, 17 9 
 Bresten, 95 
 
 Briggittine convent, 101 
 Broager Church, 79 
 Broholm, 97 
 Brovst Church, 107 
 Bruara River, 175 
 Bruggemann, Hans, 76 
 Brunnar, 147 
 Bulbjerg Cliff, 107 
 Bu< 5 ir, 147 
 Bygholm Veile, 107 
 Byrum, 107 
 
 c. 
 
 Cappel, 78 
 
 Caverns, basaltic, 147 
 Charlottenlund, 71 
 Christian Ill., monument of, 
 82 
 
 Christiansborg, palace of, 52 
 Christianshavu, 51 
 Christianso, 92 
 Christianssaede, manor of, 86 
 Church, Denmark, 20; Ice¬ 
 land, 126 
 Climate, 11 
 
 Claus Berg, altarpiece by, 47 
 Clothes: Denmark, 7; Iceland, 
 117 
 
 “ Coastfinds,” 44, 58 
 Copenhagen, 49; cabs or 
 droschkes, 49; omnibuses 
 and tramways, 49 ; hotels, 
 &c., 49 ; sea-bathing, 50 ; 
 Roman baths, 50; tele¬ 
 graph stations, 50; shops, 
 50; police stations, 50; 
 British embassy, 50 ; inha¬ 
 bitants, 50; palaces, 52, 
 69; churches, 50, 67, 68; 
 university, 52; museums, 
 &c., 51, 67 ; hospitals, 52; 
 Academy of Fine Arts, 68 ; 
 charities, 69; institution 
 for the blind, 69; theatres, 
 69; Christiansborg palace, 
 52; Thorvaldsen’s mu¬ 
 seum, 54; Prindsen Palais, 
 56, 61; ethnographic mu¬ 
 seum, 56; collection of 
 
152 
 
 INDEX, 
 
 COPENHAGEN. 
 
 modern antiquities, 57-61"; 
 arsenal, 61; royal library, 
 61; exchange, 62 ; Rosen¬ 
 berg Castle, 62-66; obser¬ 
 vatory, 66; round tower, 
 66 ; Regent’s College, 66; 
 new university library, 66 ; 
 Vor Frue Ivirke, 67 ; Count 
 Moltke’s collection of pic¬ 
 tures, 68; Amalienborg, 
 68 ; Frederiksborg, 69 ; 
 steamers, 70; environs, 70 
 Copenhagen to Roeskilde, 
 Ringsted, and Soro, 80 
 Cromlechs, 107 
 Custom-house, 114 
 Cuxkaven, 29 
 
 D. 
 
 Dagmar Cross, the, 60 
 Banevirke, 57 
 Danstrupheyn Wood, 76 
 Deer Park, 71 
 
 Denmark, succinct account 
 of, 8 
 
 Dettifoss, the, 144 
 Dithmarschen, 31 
 Dollerupbakker Hill, in 
 
 Bominions, 8 
 
 “ Dopper and Rimmer,” 104 
 Dover, church of, 96 
 Drangajbkull, 148 
 Dr&ngatindr peak, 142 
 Draxholm, castle of, 84 
 Dreslette, 94 
 Drogden, the, 28 
 Dronningslund Storskow, 102 
 Duck, wild, 48 
 Duppel, 45 
 Diisternbrook, 32 
 Dybbol, siege of, 45 
 Dybbolbjerg, 45 
 Dyndal, valley of, 92 
 Dyndalegaard, 92 
 Dyrehavsbakken, 72 
 
 E. 
 
 Ebeltoft, 98 
 Eckernfbrde, 38 
 Edeleck stat., 49 
 Education: Denmark, 20; 
 
 Iceland, 126 
 Eegholm, island of, 106 
 Egeskov, 94 
 Eider Canal, 32 
 
 ■-River, 31, 48 
 
 Eilifr Mt., 145 
 
 -junct. stat., 31 
 
 Eising Church, in 
 Eldborg, 147 
 
 Eldeyjar, or Fire-islands, 140 
 Elmshorn, 31 
 
 FRiENDEMARK. 
 
 Elsinore, 73; Sound dues, 
 
 73 ; Kronborg Castle, 74 ; 
 Marienlyst, 74; grave of 
 Hamlet, 74; bath hotel, 
 
 74 ; carriages, 75 ; excur¬ 
 sions, 75 
 
 Engelholm, manor-house 
 built by Kund Brahe, 95 
 Engelsholms cloth-mill, 95 
 
 -, lake of, 95 
 
 Enrum, park of, 72 
 Environs of Copenhagen, 70 
 Ermitagen, royal hunting- 
 pavilion, 72 
 Esbjerg, no, 112 
 Esja mts., 134 
 Esrom, 75 
 
 -, lake of, 76, 78 
 
 Essenb*k, 99 
 Eutin, 32 
 
 Excursions to Als and Byb- 
 bol, 45 
 
 - from Hamburg and Al- 
 
 tona, 30 
 
 - from Flensborg to the 
 
 Frisian Islands, 47 
 Eyjafjordr, 141 
 Eyrarbakki, 138 
 
 -to Reykir, 138 
 
 Eyrik’s Jbkull, 143 
 
 F. 
 
 Faaborg, 93 
 
 Faareveile Church, burial- 
 place of Bothwell, 84 
 Faarup Lake, 95 
 Fa?ggeklit, 109 
 Falster, island of, 86 
 Fiino, island of, 112 
 Faroe, the. Islands, 132 
 Faurbo, village of, 84 
 Faxe Strand, 88 
 Faxb, hill of, 88 
 Feldballe, church of, 98 
 Fjerridslev, 107 
 Fladstrand Oesters, 104 
 Flaunskjoldkro, 103 
 Flensborg and environs, 39 
 
 -, battle, 45 
 
 -Fjord, 39 
 
 -to Fredericia, 40 
 
 -to Gliicksburg, Sbnder- 
 
 borg, Duppel, and the Isle 
 of Als, 45 
 
 -to Husum, Tunning, and 
 
 the Frisian islands, 47 
 Fnjoska river, 143 
 Fbhr Island, 48 
 Folkething, the, 20 
 Fortunen, 72 
 Fossedal, valley of, 107 
 Fousingso, lake of, 100 
 Freendemark, 92 
 
 GRONDALSTONE. 
 
 Fraugde, church of, 43 
 Fredensborg, 76 
 Fredericia, 34, 41, 94 
 Frederik I., monument to, 
 36 
 
 Frederiksborg, castle of, 76, 
 77 
 
 Frederiksdal, woods of, 71 
 Frederiksgave, woods of, 94 
 Frederikshavn, formerly call¬ 
 ed Fladstrand, 103 
 Frederikssund, 79 
 Frederiksvasrk, 78 
 Friedrichsort, 32 
 Friedrichstadt, 48 
 Frijsenborg, seat of Count, 97 
 Frisenvold, salmon fishery, 
 100 
 
 Frisian Islands, 48 
 Fuglekoje, 112 
 Fureso, lake of, 71 
 Fuur, island of, 108 
 Fyen, island of, 40, 93 
 
 G. 
 
 Galtalcekr Farm, 137 
 
 -to Eyrarbakki, 138 
 
 Gammel Estrup, 99 
 Gammelborg, 90 
 
 -, fortress of, 92 
 
 Garor, 144 
 Gauno, castle of, 87 
 Geldingatjorn lake, 134 
 Geography,physical, Iceland, 
 127 
 
 Geology and General Aspect: 
 Denmark, 8; Iceland, 127, 
 129 
 
 Geyser, hot springs, 135 
 Gilleleie, 75 
 Gisselfeld, 88 
 Gjblland, island of, 106 
 Gjorslev, mansion of, 88 
 Glssborg Church, 99 
 Glamu Jbkull, 148 
 Glorup, 93 
 Gloves, Banish, 10c 
 Gliicksburg, 39, 45 
 Gliickstadt, 29 
 Glymrfoss 147 
 Go< 5 afoss, 144 
 Gottorp, castle of, 36 
 Graasteen, or Gravenstein, 
 19 - 45 
 
 Greisdal, valley of, 95 
 Greismills, 95 
 Grenaa, 97, 99 
 Grendsten, 100 
 Gribskov, forest of, 78 
 Grimmans fell, 134 
 Grimstundurhei<$i, 143 
 Grindavik Sta< 5 r, 140 
 Grbndalstone, 100 
 
INDEX. 
 
 153 
 
 GRTTNDARFJORD. 
 
 Grundarfjord, 147 
 Gudenaa River, 9, 96 
 Gudhjem, 92 
 Guldborg, 87 
 —— Sound, 87 
 Gulibringu Sysla, 141 
 Gullloss waterfall, 176 
 Gundelstrup, cromlechs at, 
 107 
 
 GuSiaugsvik, 148 
 Gurre, lake of, 75 
 
 -, ruin of, 75 
 
 Gustavus Wasa, 98 
 
 H. 
 
 Haddeby, 77 
 Haderslev, 40 
 Hadsund Ferry, 101 
 Hafnarfjor< 5 r, 179 
 Haifavatn lake, 174 
 Hage, 149 
 Hald, hi 
 
 -Church, 101 
 
 ——, lake of, ill 
 Hals, 106 
 Halsntes, 78 
 Hamar, 148 
 
 Hamburg, 29; hotels, 29; 
 ramparts, 29; churches, 
 70; exchange, 70; zoolo¬ 
 gical gardens, 70; money, 
 70; excursions, 70 
 Hamlet, grave of, 74, 101 
 Hammeren, island of, 91 
 Hammershus, ruins of, 89, 
 9 i 
 
 •-, two fine caves, 92 
 
 Hansherreder, 106 
 Hansted Fyr, 109 
 Hanstholm, 109 
 Haraldskjaer, 95 
 Hardenberg, manor of, 86 
 Hasle, coal mines of, 91 
 Haslev, station of, 88 
 Haukadalr, to Gullfoss and 
 Hruni, 176 
 Haukagil, 142 
 Havelse, 79 
 Haverslev, 107 
 Havno, manor of, 101 
 Hebbe castle, 87 
 Hedeby, 77 
 Hee Church, m 
 Heide junct. stat., 49 
 Hekla, ascent of, 177 
 St. Helen’s Well, 78 
 Helgafell, 147 
 Helgenies, 98 
 Heligoland, 29 
 Hellebaek, 75 
 Helligdommen, 92 
 Hellishei< 5 i, 178 
 HellisskarS, 178 
 HerarSsvbtu river, 142 
 
 ITZEHOE. 
 
 Herlufsholm, public school, 
 87 
 
 Hertha, valley of, 87 
 Hesselagergaard, 97 
 Hillerod, 76 
 Himmelbjerget, 96 
 Hindsgavl, 42 
 
 Hirtsholmane, islands of, 104 
 Historical Notice : Denmark, 
 11; Iceland, 122 
 Hjallerup, inn of, 102 
 HjarSarholt, 148 
 Hjelm, island of, 99 
 Hjorring, 102,105 
 Hjortsdal, 107 
 Hobro, joi 
 
 Hoie Moen, hills of, 85 
 Hoiriis, tradition of, 109 
 Holar, 142 
 Hoirup church, 28 
 Holbsek, 87 
 Holbek Church, 101 
 Holberg, Ludvig, 84 
 Holckenhavn, 47 
 Holstebro, m 
 Holsteenhus, 97 
 Holsteinborg, castle of, 87 
 Holtenau, 72 
 11 orga river, 142 
 Hornbaek, 7; 
 
 Horne, church of, 9? 
 Hornslet, church of, 98 
 Horsens, 95 
 Horserod, woods of, 7 5 
 Horsholm, or Hirschholm, 72 
 Hdrup Hav, 40, 46 
 Hoyer, 48 
 
 Hrafntinnuhryggr, 145 
 Hringsvershvylit, 144 
 Hruni, 177 
 
 -to Galtabekr, 177 
 
 Husavik, 144 
 Husum, 47 
 
 Hiittener Berge (hills of), 75 
 Hvamm, 142; 
 
 Hvedholm, 97 
 Hveen, island of, 72 
 Hvidkilde, 97 
 Hvitd River, 176, 177, 147 
 
 I. 
 
 Iceland, 117 
 
 -, history of, 122 
 
 -, North-Eastern, 147 
 
 Idsted, 78 
 
 Ingeborg Skeel, legends of, 
 107 
 
 Ingolfsfjall, 178 
 Inns : Denmark, 6; Iceland, 
 120 
 
 Isafjor< 5 r, 148 
 Issefjord, the, 78 
 Itzehoe, 71 
 
 KOBBERMOLLERKOYEN. 
 Iuul So, 96 
 
 Iver Hvitfelt, commander of 
 the ‘ Dannebrog,’ 89 
 
 J. 
 
 Jsegerbakken, 77 
 Jfegerspriis, 78, 79 
 Jammerbugt, 107 
 Jattestue, or Large Sepul¬ 
 chre, 79, 87,107 
 Jellinge, burial-place of King 
 Gorm den Gamle, 95 
 J6nsskar8, 146 
 Jons Kapel, legend of, 91 
 ‘ Jordebog,’ King Walde- 
 mar’s, 47 
 
 Jordfald, phenomenon of, 109 
 St. Jorgensbjerg, 107 
 Jiibeck junct. stat., 79, 47 
 Jutland: East, 94 
 -, West, 106 
 
 K. 
 
 Kalfatjorn, 141 
 Kalfholt, 178 
 Kdlfstindar peaks, 175 
 Kallehave, 86 
 
 Kallundborg, 87; old church, 
 
 87 
 
 Kalmanstunga, 147 
 Kalo Ladegaard, 98 
 
 -, castle of, 98 
 
 -Vig Bay, 98 
 
 Kandestederne (salvage sta¬ 
 tion), 105 
 
 Katholm, manor of, 99 
 Keilir volcanic cone, 141 
 Kiel, 71; 
 
 King Frode, burial-place of, 
 19 
 
 Kingo, Thomas, sepulchre of, 
 4i 
 
 Kirkjubol, 148 
 Kirkjuvogr, 141 
 Kitchen-middens, 58, 78, 79, 
 8?, 99, 101 
 Kjeldbymagle, 85 
 Kielkjaer Farm, 95 
 Kjoge, 86, 89. 
 
 Kjbgebugt (Bay), two famous 
 naval battles, 89 
 Kjbkken-mbdding, or kitch¬ 
 en-midden, 78, 87, 99, 101 
 Klampenborg, 71 
 -, sea-bathing establish¬ 
 ment, 71 
 Klausholm, 100 
 Kleifavatn, 179 
 Kniveholt, manor of, 104 
 Knoop Manor, 72 
 Kobbermullerkoven, wood of, 
 45 
 
154 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 K0BBERV2ERKET. 
 Kobbervsrket (copper-mill), 
 95 
 
 Kokkedal Manor-house, 107 
 Holding, 41, 94 
 
 -loot'd, 41 
 
 Koldinghuus, ruins of, 41 
 Kolind Sund, lake of, 98 
 Kongsbjerget Hill, 86 
 Kongshoi, hill of, 97 
 
 -Hammervaerk, 9} 
 
 Korsiir, 75, 44, 70 
 Koster, 85 
 Krafla, 14; 
 
 Krak& River, 145 
 Krisuwik, 179; sulphur- 
 mines, 179 
 Krogerup Park, 76 
 Kronborg, 72 
 Kurborg, 3 8 
 
 1. 
 
 Laboe, 33 
 
 Laassii, island of, 103 
 Laudskrona, 72 
 Landsthing, 19 
 Lang Farm, 13 5 
 Langaa, 99, 100 
 Langeland, island of, 40 
 Language: Denmark, 3 
 
 - and Literature, Iceland, 
 
 124 
 
 Lasten Church, 100 
 Laugabrekka, 147 
 Laugarfjall, 175 
 Laugardalr, 13 j 
 Laugarvatn, 133 
 Laxa, river, 174, 177, 144 
 Leerbsek, 95 
 Leirhnukr, 114 
 Leiruvogsvatn lake, 174 
 Leith to Reykjavik, 172 
 Lemvig, in 
 Lerup, 107 
 Lethraborg, 8; 
 
 Lierslev, church of, 109 
 Lilleaa River, 99 
 Lilleborg, ruins of, 90 
 Lindenborg, seat of Count 
 Schimmelmann, 101 
 Limfjord, 101, in 
 Liselund, 85 
 Liigberg, 175 
 Logstdr, hotel of, 106 
 Lokken, 102, 10; 
 
 Lolland, island of, 86 
 London to' Copenhagen, 26, 
 28, 74 
 
 -, Overland Route, 28 
 
 -, Sea Route, 28 
 
 Louiselund, 92 
 Louisenlund, 78 
 Lovenholm, 99 
 Lubeck, 26; hotels, 26; 
 churches, 26; Dance of 
 Death, 27 ; cathedral, 27 ; 
 
 namaskarS. 
 
 publicbuildings, Rathhaus, 
 &c., 27 
 
 Luggage: Denmark, 7; Ice¬ 
 land, 118 
 Lundeborg, 97 
 Liindby, 87 
 Lundr, 147 
 Lyngby, 71, 98 
 
 -, lake of, 71 
 
 -, church of, 98 
 
 Lyo, 97 
 
 M. 
 
 Maglehoii, 78 
 
 Magnus, Bishop, monument 
 of, 108 
 
 Mail Coaches, 4 
 Malmd, 74, 70 
 Manufactures, 21 
 Maps: Iceland, 121 
 Mariager, 101 
 
 -Fjord, 101 
 
 Marianelund, 76 
 Maribo, 86 
 Marselisborg, 97 
 Marsk Stig, 99 
 Marslev, 47 
 
 Marsvinejagere (dolphin 
 hunters), 42 
 Martorv, or peat, 105 
 Masnedsund, 77, 70,87 
 Measures, 7, 117 
 Meilgaard, 99 
 Meldorf stat., 49 
 Middlefart, 42, 97 
 Miklaholt, 147 
 Minni Laxa River, 177 
 Mi< 5 dalr, 175 
 Missunde, 78 
 
 Moen, Falster, Lolland, and 
 the South of Sealand, 8y 
 Moen, cliffs of, 85 
 
 -, island of, 27, 85 
 
 Mollerup, manor of, 98 
 Mdltenort, 77 
 
 Moltke, Count, collection of 
 pictures, 68 
 Mo’s, peninsula of, 98 
 Money, Measures, Weights: 
 
 Denmark, 1; Iceland, 117 
 Money Orders, 6 
 Mo< 5 ruvellir, 141 
 Mbrke, 98 
 
 Morso, island of, 108, 109 
 Morsum Cliff, 48 
 Mosfellshei< 5 oe, 174 
 Muli, 144 
 Munkmarsch, 48 
 Myvatn Lake, 14s 
 
 N. 
 
 Naefrholt Farm, 177 
 NamaskartS Pass, 145 
 
 OSTERLABS. 
 
 Naesbyholm old manor-house, 
 88 
 
 Naestved, 87 
 
 -, town hall of, 87 
 
 Nakkehovea, 75 
 Navy, 22 
 Nes, 144 
 
 Neumunster junct. stat., 71, 
 34 
 
 Neustad, 71 
 Nexo, 92 
 
 Nibe Breding, 106 
 Niels Ebbesen, 100 
 Nissum Bredning, 108 
 Njardvik, 141 
 Nodager, church of, 98 
 Nordby, 112 
 Nordskov, wood of, 79 
 Nordstrand, 48 
 Norlund, 101 
 Norre Sundby, 102 
 
 -Vosborg, hi 
 
 Norreskow, wood of, 96 
 Northern Antiquities, collec¬ 
 tion of, 5 7 
 Nosse, 48 
 Nubel, 45 
 
 Nybol Noer Bay, 45 
 Nyborg, 75 , 43 , 9 ? 
 
 Nykirke, circular church of, 
 90 
 
 Nykjobing, 77, 87, 109 
 Nylarsker, circular church of, 
 7 1 
 
 Nyso, seat of Baron Stampe.87 
 
 0. 
 
 Od;i<$ahraun, 146 
 Odden Manor-house, 105 
 Odense, 42, 97; hotels, 42; 
 churches, 42, 47 ; palace, 
 43 
 
 OdiDshoi, 75 
 Oeversee, 79 
 Olafsvik, 147 
 Oland, island of, 106 
 Oldenborg horn, 67 
 Olfusa River, 178 
 Olskirke, circular church of, 
 .. 92 
 
 Olst, church of, 100 
 Om, village of, 87 
 Orbseklund, manor of, 97 
 Orehoved, 77, 87 
 Oresund, 71 
 Orsted, H. C., 40 
 T: —, church of, 101 
 drum Moor, mirage of, 102 
 Os, 148 
 
 Ospakseyri, 148 
 Oster Larsker, 92 
 Osteraa, 101 
 
 Osterlars Kirke, circular 
 church of, 92 
 
INDEX. 
 
 155 
 
 OTTENSEN. 
 
 Ottensen, 30 
 Outfit, &c., 117 
 Overbeck, 27 
 Overdrevsbakken, 88 
 Oxeby, 107 
 
 Oxholm ..Manor-house, for¬ 
 merly Okloster, 107 
 Oxnadalr, 142 
 
 Oyster Fisheries, 48,104, m 
 
 P. 
 
 Paradisbakkeme, 92 
 Passports: Denmark, 3 ; Ice¬ 
 land, 114 
 
 Petersborg Church, 85 
 Pelworm Island, 48 
 Peninsula, the S.W., 139 
 
 -, the N.W., 146 
 
 Pinneberg, 31 
 Ploen, 31 
 Postage, 6 
 Posting, 3 
 Prsesto, 86 
 Press, 20 
 
 Prison, provincial, of Jut¬ 
 land, 96 
 
 Q. 
 
 Querndrup, 94 
 
 R. 
 
 Railroads, 4 
 
 Railway, North Sealand, 71, 
 7 1 
 
 -, from Flensborg to 
 
 Fredericia, 40 
 Randbolhede, 95 
 Randers, 97, 99 
 
 -, fjord of, 97, 101 
 
 Randkloveskaaret, 92 
 Refuses, 84 
 Reindeer, 14; 
 
 Rendsburg, 34 
 Revenue, 22 
 
 Reyker to Reykjavik, 138 
 Reykholt, 147 
 ReykjahlvS, 145 
 Reykjanes, Cape, 140 
 Reykjavik, 133 ; hot springs, 
 133 
 
 -to Thingveller, 134 
 
 -to Krisuvik, &c., 139 
 
 Reynivellir, 147 
 Ribe, 40, no, 112 
 
 -, cathedral of, 112 
 
 Riesendamm, or Giants’ 
 Dyke, 37 
 Riiskov, 97 
 Ringe, 93 
 Ringebakker, 91 
 Ringkjobing, no, n 1 
 Ringsted, 38, 44, 84 
 
 SEALAND. 
 
 Rispebjerget, 92 
 Rivers —Alster, 29; Bruara, 
 135; Eider, 31, 48; Gude- 
 naa, 9, 96; Lilleaa, 99; 
 
 Storaa, no; Trave, 27; 
 
 Treen, 48; Vsere, 79; 
 
 Yeilaa, 95; Voersaa, 103 
 Rodby, 86 
 Rodekro, 40. 
 
 Rddstet, manor-house, 106 
 Roeslcilde, with the central 
 and western parts of Sea- 
 land, 80 
 
 Roeskilde, 44, 80; cathe¬ 
 dral, 80-83; Vor Frue 
 
 Kirke, and other churches, 
 83; lunatic asylum, 83; 
 excursions, 83 
 
 Roeskilde, excursions from, 
 85 
 
 Rokkesteen, 77, 90 
 Rold, forest of, 101 
 Romb Church, m 
 Ronde Kro Inn, 98 
 Ronne, 90 
 Ronnede, 88 
 Rosenborg Castle, 62 
 Rosenholm Manor-house, 98 
 Rostock, 33 
 Rd Sogn, district of, 92 
 Rostgaard Stone, 76 
 
 -to Copenhagen, 33 
 
 Routes to and through Den¬ 
 mark, 25 
 
 Rudkjobing, birthplace of H. 
 C. Orsted, the discoverer of 
 electro-magnetism, 40 
 Rugaard, manor of, 99 
 Riigen, island, 34 
 Rugtved, manor of, 103 
 Rungsted, village of, 72 
 Runic Stones, 38, 90, 95, 100, 
 toi, 106 
 
 Ruth’s Kirke, 91 
 Ry Kloster, 45 
 Rydhave Manor, in 
 Rytterkncegten, 90 
 
 S. 
 
 Steby, 102, 103 
 Ssebygard Manor, T03 
 Sal, church of, in 
 Sailing Church, 107 
 
 -Sund, 108, 109 
 
 Salmon, 129 
 
 Sandvig, 92 
 
 Saxkjobing, 86 
 
 Saxo Grammaticus,79,83,109 
 
 Schleswig and Environs, 36 
 
 -, battle of, 37, 38 
 
 -to Fredericia, 39 
 
 Sealand, and the adjoining 
 smaller islands, 70 
 
 ST API. 
 
 Seljadalr, 134 
 Servants travelling, 7 
 Shooting, fishing, i&c.: Ice¬ 
 land, 129 
 SilfrastaSir, 142 
 Silkeborg, legend of, 96 
 Sjorring, church of, 108 
 
 -Void, 108 
 
 Skaffdgaard, manor-house of, 
 99 
 
 Skagafjor< 5 r, 142 
 Skagen, or the Skaw, 102, 
 104 
 
 -, old church of, 104 
 
 -, new church of, 105 
 
 Skamlingsbanke, 41 
 Skanderborg, 96 
 Skandrup, 96 
 Skandsebakke, 77 
 Skarreklit Rock, 107 
 Skarridso, lake of, 84 
 Skarrup, 93 
 
 Skeleton Tours: Denmark, 
 23; Iceland, 130 
 Skibby, church of, 83 
 Skive, 108, no 
 Skjterpinegaard, 107 
 SkjaldbrerS, 143 
 Skjalfandafljot River, 144 
 Skjelskjor, 87 
 Skjern Castle, 100 
 
 -, church of, 100 
 
 Sbjoldstrup, 97 
 Skodsborg, 72 
 Skoven Wood, 98 
 Skutusta< 5 ir, 145 
 Slagelse, 44, 87 
 Slie, the (German Schlei), 36, 
 37 , 38 
 
 Slotslyngen, common of, 91 
 
 Snaelels Jokull, 134, 147 
 
 Snoghoi, 42 
 
 Soborg, 7 5 
 
 Solager, 78 
 
 Solfatara, the, 145 
 
 Sommerstedt, 40 
 
 Sonderborg, 40, 46 
 
 Sorgenfri, 71 
 
 Soro, 44, 84, 88 
 
 Sorthat, coal-mines of, 91 
 
 Sound, the, 73 
 
 Spdttrup, Manor-house, no 
 
 Sprengisandr, 148 
 
 Sprogd, island of, 44 
 
 St. Helen’s Well, 78 
 
 St. Jorgensbjerg, 107 
 
 Staby Church, in 
 
 Stade, 29 
 
 Stadilfjord, in 
 
 Stafholt, 147 
 
 Stamps, 6 
 
 Sta< 5 arbraun, 147 
 
 Sta'Sr, 140, 148 
 
 Sta'SastaiSr, 147 
 
 Stapi, basaltic caves, 147 
 
156 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 STATISTICS. 
 
 Statistics: Denmark, 19; Ice¬ 
 land, 125 
 
 Steamers: Denmark, 5; Ice¬ 
 land, 114 
 
 -to Iceland, 113 
 
 -to Korsor, 49 
 
 Steensballe woods of, 96 
 Stege, 8; 
 
 Stenalt, 101 
 Stettin, J4 
 
 -to Copenhagen, 34 
 
 Stevns Klint, 28, 88 
 Slevnsherred, 88 
 Sloraa River, no 
 Store Heddinge, 88 
 Storuvellir, 147, 138, 146 
 Stovringaard, convent of, 101 
 Stralsund, 44 
 
 -to Copenhagen, 44 
 
 Strand, province of, 47 
 Strandvei, 70 
 Strib, 42,94 
 Stromoe, 142 
 Stromoe Island, 132 
 Struensee, 14 
 Struer, 111 
 Stykkisholme, 148 
 Succinct account of Den¬ 
 mark , 8 
 
 Sulphur mines, 149 
 Sundeved, 45 
 Sundewitt, 45 
 SuSra River, 146 
 Surtshellir caves, 143 
 Svaneke, 92 
 Svartdrkot, 14; 
 
 Sveiluhals, 139 
 Svein, king, 37 
 Svendborg, 40, 93 
 Svinadalr Farm, 144 
 Svinavatn, 142 
 Svinklbo, chalk hills, 107 
 Sylt Island, 48 
 
 T. 
 
 Taasinge, island of, 40, 93 
 Taastrup, station of, 86 
 Telegraph lines, 6 
 Thiugevellir, 134 
 
 VANDERUP. 
 
 Thingevellir to the Geysirs, 
 115 
 
 Thisted, 102, 106, 108 
 Tbjorsa River, 137 
 Thorsager, 97, 99 
 Thorshavn, 132 
 Thoisnes, 148 
 Thorvaldsen, 55, 87 
 
 -, font by, 133 
 
 -Museum, 54 
 
 Thyland, 102, 106 
 Tidsvilde, 78 
 Tindbjerg, 96 
 Tinglef junction, 49 
 
 -, station of, 40 
 
 Tirsbjek, 95 
 Tirstrup, 98 
 Tdnder, 48 
 Tdnning, 47 
 
 -to Itzehoe and Ham¬ 
 burg, 49 
 
 Torrevende rende (brook), 
 105 
 
 Trade: Denmark, 21 ; Ice¬ 
 land, 126 
 
 Travelling expenses : Den¬ 
 mark, 2; Iceland, 119 
 Travemiinde, 27 
 Treen River, 48 
 Trolle Herluf, 87 
 Tiiugufljot, 135 
 Tversted, inn of, 10; 
 
 Tycho Brahe, residence of, 
 72 
 
 IT. 
 
 ITdleire, 79 
 Ulderup, 46 
 Ulfkjcer Kro, in 
 Ulstrup, manor of, 100 
 Uxahver, 144 
 
 V. 
 
 Vaadesungen, the, or Song of 
 Woe, in 
 Vaere River, 79 
 Valdemarslund, 76 
 Valid Castle, 88 
 Vamdrup, 40 
 Vanderup, hi 
 
 ■WYCK. 
 
 Varde, no, hi 
 V atna Jokuil, 149 
 Vatnsdalsfijall River, 142 
 VatnskarS Lake, 142 
 Vedbaek, village of, 72 
 Veilby Church, 101 
 Veile, 95 
 
 --Fjord, 94 
 
 Veileaa River, 95 
 Veirhoi, 84 
 
 Vemmetotte, convent of, 88 
 Veng, monastery of, 96 
 Venningbond Bay, 40 
 Vesterbro, suburb of, the 
 home of the poet Ander¬ 
 sen, 43 
 
 Vesterskov, 97 
 Vestervigkloster, legend of, 
 108 
 
 Vestmannsvatn, 144 
 Vestri Ranga River, 137 
 Viborg, 99, no 
 
 -, cathedral of, no 
 
 Vildmose, the (moor), 106 
 Villingaholt, 138 
 Vilssund, 109 
 Vindheimajdkull, 142 
 Vi< 5 dalstunguhei$i, 148 
 Vi< 5 ey, 134 
 Vi< 5 imyri, 142 
 
 Visborggaard Manor-house, 
 101 
 
 Vissinbjerg, 94 
 Vocabulary, 240-24(1 
 Voer Church, 103 
 Voergaard, 103 
 Voersaa River, 103 
 Vojens junct. stat., 40 
 Volcanoes, 136 
 Vordingborg, the Goose 
 Tower, 87 
 
 Vreilev, convent of, 105 
 
 W. 
 
 Wandsbeck, 30 
 Weights, 3, 113 
 Westerland, 48 
 Wild fowl, 134 
 Worsaaes Oe, 86 
 Wyck, 48 
 
 LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, 
 STAMFORD STREET AND CHASING CROSS. 
 
For Murray’s Handbook 
 
 London. John Murray, Albemarle Street/. 
 
 Edw^WeHer 
 
HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 1885-86 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 FACE 
 
 FOREIGN AGENTS :—j. & k. mcoeacken. 2 
 
 RAILWAY AND STEAMBOAT COMPANIES : 
 
 DUBLIN AND GLASGOW STEAM PACKET COMPANY.2 
 
 GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANT.4 
 
 GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS—ROYAL ROUTE.4 
 
 GLASGOW AND SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY .3 
 
 HOTELS AND MISCELLANEOUS ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 ATX LA CHAPELLE 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 . 6 
 
 HOMBURG . 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 . 19 
 
 PRAGUE 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 35, 36 
 
 AMIENS 
 
 
 
 . § 
 
 HYERES 
 
 
 
 . 20 
 
 QUIMPER . 
 
 
 . 36 
 
 ANTWERP . 
 
 
 
 . 6 , 6 
 
 ILFRACOMBE 
 
 
 
 20, 21 
 
 REIMS. 
 
 
 . 36 
 
 AVRANCHES 
 
 
 
 . 6 
 
 INNSBRUCK 
 
 
 
 . 21 
 
 RIGI . 
 
 
 36, 37 
 
 BADEN-BADEN 
 
 
 
 . 6, 7 
 
 INTERLAKEN 
 
 
 
 20, 21 
 
 ROME . 
 
 
 . 37 
 
 BAGNERES DE BIGORRE 
 
 . 7 
 
 KARLSRUHE 
 
 
 
 . 21 
 
 ROTTERDAM 
 
 
 . 38 
 
 BAGN&RES DE LDCHON 
 
 . 27 
 
 KILLARNEY 
 
 
 
 . 22 
 
 ROUEN 
 
 
 . 38 
 
 BASLE . 
 
 
 
 . 7 
 
 KISSINGEN . 
 
 
 
 21,22 
 
 ROY AT-LES-B AIN8 
 
 . 38 
 
 BELFAST . 
 
 
 
 . 7 
 
 KREUZNACH 
 
 
 
 . 22 
 
 ST. SERVAN 
 
 
 . 38 
 
 BERLIN 
 
 
 
 . 7 
 
 LAUSANNE . 
 
 
 
 . 22 
 
 ST. PETERSBURG 
 
 . 40 
 
 BIDEFORD . 
 
 
 
 . 8 
 
 LE MANS . 
 
 
 
 . 22 
 
 8ALZBURG . 
 
 
 . 38 
 
 BONN . 
 
 
 
 . 8 
 
 LIMOGES . 
 
 
 
 . 23 
 
 SAN REMO . 
 
 
 . 39 
 
 BOULOGNE-SUR-MER . 
 
 . 8 
 
 LISBON 
 
 
 
 . 23 
 
 SAUMUR . 
 
 
 . 38 
 
 BREMEN . 
 
 
 
 . 8 
 
 LOCH LOMOND 
 
 
 
 . 22 
 
 SCHWALBACH 
 
 
 . 39 
 
 BRUSSELS . 
 
 
 
 . 8,9 
 
 LONDON 
 
 
 
 23-26, £0 
 
 SENS . 
 
 
 . 39 
 
 CAEN . 
 
 
 
 . 10 
 
 LUCERNE . 
 
 
 
 26,27 
 
 SEVILLE . 
 
 
 . 39 
 
 CANNES 
 
 
 
 9, 10 
 
 LYNTON 
 
 
 
 . 27 
 
 SPA 
 
 
 . 40 
 
 CHRISTIANIA 
 
 
 
 . 11 
 
 LYONS 
 
 
 
 . 27 
 
 SPEZIA 
 
 
 . 40 
 
 COBLENTZ . 
 
 
 
 . 11 
 
 MACON 
 
 
 
 . 28 
 
 STOCKHOLM 
 
 
 . 41 
 
 COLOGNE . 
 
 
 
 11,12 
 
 MADRID 
 
 
 
 . 28 
 
 STRASBOURG 
 
 
 . 42 
 
 CONSTANCE 
 
 
 
 . 11 
 
 MARIENBAD 
 
 
 
 . 28 
 
 STUTTGART 
 
 
 . 42 
 
 COPENHAGEN 
 
 
 
 . 11 
 
 MENTONE . 
 
 
 
 . 28 
 
 THUN . 
 
 
 . 42 
 
 COWE3 
 
 
 
 . 13 
 
 MERAN. 
 
 
 
 . 28 
 
 TOULOUSE . 
 
 
 . 43 
 
 DAVOS-PLATZ 
 
 
 
 . 15 
 
 MILAN . 
 
 
 
 . 29 
 
 TOURS . 
 
 
 . 42 
 
 DIEPPE 
 
 
 
 . 13 
 
 MOFFAT 
 
 
 
 . 28 
 
 TRIBERG . 
 
 
 . 43 
 
 DINARD 
 
 
 
 . 13 
 
 MUNICH 
 
 
 
 . 29 
 
 TURIN . 
 
 
 . 43 
 
 DRESDEN . 
 
 
 
 13, 14 
 
 NANTES 
 
 
 
 . 30 
 
 UEIAGE-LES-BA1NS 
 
 . 17 
 
 ENGELBERG 
 
 
 
 . 15 
 
 NAPLES 
 
 
 
 . 30 
 
 UTLIBERG . 
 
 
 . 44 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 
 
 . 15 
 
 NERVI 
 
 
 
 . 16 
 
 VALENCIA . 
 
 
 . 46 
 
 FRANKFORT 
 
 
 
 . 15 
 
 NEUCHATEL 
 
 
 
 . 30 
 
 VARESE 
 
 
 . 43 
 
 GENEVA 
 
 
 
 . 16 
 
 NEUHAUSEN 
 
 
 
 . 31 
 
 VENICE 
 
 
 . 44 
 
 GENOA 
 
 
 
 . 16 
 
 NICE . 
 
 
 
 . 30 
 
 VERONA 
 
 
 . 45 
 
 GMUNDEN . 
 
 
 
 . 16 
 
 OSTEND 
 
 
 
 . 32 
 
 VEVEY 
 
 
 . 47 
 
 GOTHA 
 
 
 
 . 17 
 
 OXFORD 
 
 
 
 . 32 
 
 VICHY 
 
 
 46,47 
 
 GRENOBLE 
 
 
 
 . 17 
 
 PARIS . 
 
 
 
 33, 34 
 
 VIENNA 
 
 
 46,47 
 
 HAMBURG . 
 
 
 
 . 17 
 
 PAU . 
 
 
 
 32,34, 35 
 
 WIESBADEN 
 
 
 . 47 
 
 HANOVER . 
 
 
 
 . 18 
 
 PENZANCE . 
 
 
 
 34, 35 
 
 WILDBAD . 
 
 
 . 48 
 
 HARROGATE 
 
 
 
 . 18 
 
 PISA . 
 
 
 
 . 35 
 
 WURZBURG 
 
 
 . 48 
 
 HAVRE 
 
 
 
 . 18 
 
 PLYMOUTH 
 
 
 
 . 35 
 
 ZARAGOZA . 
 
 
 . 48 
 
 HEIDELBERG 
 
 
 
 18, 19 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 B 
 
2 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 MESSRS. J. & R. M C CRACKEN, 
 
 38, QUEEN STEEET, CANNON STREET, LONDON, E.C., 
 
 AGENTS BY APPOINTMENT TO THE ROYAL ACADEMY, NATIONAL GALLERY, 
 AND GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENT OF SCIENCE AND ART, 
 
 WINE MERCHANTS, 
 
 GENERAL AND FOREIGN AGENTS, AND AGENTS GENERALLY FOR THE 
 RECEPTION AND SHIPMENT OF WORKS OF ART, BAGGAGE, ETC., 
 FROM AND TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD, 
 
 Beg to say that they are prepared to give through inclusive rates to all parts of the Continent. 
 Their old-estahlished connections with the best Foreign Firms enable them to offer great 
 facilities to their clients. J. & R. MO. have the advantage of 
 
 DRY AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES, 
 
 Where Works of Art and ail descriptions of Property can be kept during the Owner’s 
 absence, at most moderate rates of rent. 
 
 Special arrangements have been made for the convenience of American Clients. 
 Parties favouring J. and R. M c C. with their Consignments are requested to be particular 
 in having the Bills of Lading sent to them dibect by Post, and also to forward their Keys 
 with the Packages, as, although the contents may be free of Duty, all Packages are still 
 examined by the Customs immediately on arrival. Packages cleared at all the Outports, 
 such as Liverpool, &c., but all Letters, Bills of Lading, and Keys, to be addressed to 
 38 , Queen Street, London, E.C. 
 
 Insurances effected. Orders for all descriptions of goods executed. Agency business of 
 every kind undertaken on best terms. 
 
 WINE DEPARTMENT. 
 
 Wines and Spirits shipped, duty free, to all parts of the World. Detailed Price Lists 
 of a very large Stock on application. 
 
 Sole Agents for the Swiss Champagne of Messrs. Bouvier Freres, Neuchatel. 
 
 DUBLIN AN D G LASGOW STEAM PACKET COMPANY. 
 
 The Company’s First Class Saloon Paddle Steamers, 
 
 Duke of Argyll, Duke of Leinster, Lord Clyde, Lord Goug-h, and the 
 First-Class Screw Steamer General Gordon, or other Steamers, 
 
 Are intended to Sail as per Monthly Sailing bills, unless prevented by any unforeseen 
 occurrence, from 
 
 DUBLIN TO GLASGOW 
 
 Every MONDAY, WEDNESDAY and FRIDAY, and every alternate TUESDAY, 
 THURSDAY and SATURDAY. From 
 
 GLASGOW TO DUBLIN 
 
 Every MONDAY, WEDNESDAY and FRIDAY, and every alternate TUESDAY, 
 THURSDAY and SATURDAY, calling at Greenock both ways, except Saturday Boat 
 from Dublin, which proceeds direct to Glasgow. 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 Cabin Fare, (including Steward’s 
 
 Fees). 0 15 0 
 
 Return Tickets (6 Months) ..126 
 
 Steerage. 0 6 0 
 
 Return Tickets (6 Months) . . 0 10 0 
 
 Single Ticket to Edinburgh .10 0 
 
 Return Ticket to Edinburgh 
 
 (2 Months). 
 
 Single Ticket to Edinburgh 
 ( 3 rd Class and Deck) . . . 
 
 Return Ticket to Edinburgh 
 (2 Months) ( 3 rd Class and 
 Deck) 
 
 £ s. 
 
 I 10 
 
 0 8 6 
 
 0 14 0 
 
 Passengers can travel between Greenock and Edinburgh Direct, without change of 
 carriage, by either Caledonian or North British Railway, according to the Ticket they hold. 
 The Caledonian Railway Stations are Cathcart Street, Greenock; and Prince’s Street, 
 Edinburgh. North British Company’s—Lyndoch Street, Greenock; and Haymarket and 
 Waverley Stations, Edinburgh. 
 
 §fjT Passengers are also Booked Through between Dublin and the principal Railway 
 Stations in Scotland. 
 
 AGENTS.—Henby Lakont, 93, Hope Street, Glasgow. James Little & Co., Excise 
 Buildings, Greenock. 
 
 fiTBLIN OFFICES.— Booking Office for Passengers —1 Eden Quay; where Berths 
 can be secured up to 2 o’clock, p.m., on day of Sailing. 
 
 CHIEF OFFICE AND STORES.—71, NORTH WALL. 
 
 Further particulars, Monthly Bills, &c., on application to j MANN? Manager. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 3 
 
 GLASGOW AND SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY. 
 
 DIRECT ROUTE BETWEEN 
 
 SCOTLAND & ENGLAND. 
 
 THROUGH TRAINS ARE RUN BETWEEN 
 
 GLASGOW (St. Enoch) and LONDON (St. Pancras), 
 
 Via the GLASGOW & SOUTH-WESTERN and MIDLAND RAILWAYS, 
 
 Giving a Direct and Expeditious Service between 
 
 GLASGOW, GREENOCK, PAISLEY, AYR, ARDROSSAN, KILMARNOCK, 
 DUMFRIES, &o., and 
 
 LIVERPOOL, MANCHESTER, BRADFORD, LEEDS, SHEFFIELD, 
 BRISTOL, BATH, BIRMINGHAM, LONDON, &c. 
 
 PULLMAN DRAWING-ROOM AND SLEEPING CARS 
 
 Ar e run by the Morning and Evening Express Trains between GLASGOW and LONDON. 
 
 Tourist Tickets are issued from the principal Stations on the Glasgow and South-Western 
 Railway to LONDON, BRIGHTON, ISLE OF WIGHT, BOURNEMOUTH, and numerous 
 places of interest in the South and South-West of England; to BATH, HARROGATE, 
 BUXTON, MATLOCK, MALVERN, and other favourite resorts; also to the ENGLISH 
 LAKE DISTRICT, ISLE OF MAN, &c. 
 
 FIRTH OF CLYDE and WEST HIGHLANDS, 
 via GREENOCK. 
 
 EXPRESS and FAST TRAINS are run at convenient hours between 
 
 GLASGOW & GREENOCK 
 
 (St. Enoch Station) (Lynedoch St. and Princes Pier Stations) 
 
 IN DIRECT CONNECTION WITH THE 
 
 “COLUMBA,” “IONA,” “LORD OF THE ISLES/’ “BOOTIA,” 
 
 And other Steamers sailing to and from 
 
 Kirn, Dunoon, Innellan, Rothesay, Kyles of Bute, Ardrishaig, Oban, 
 Inverary, Largs, Millport, Kilcreggan, Kilmun, Lochgoilhead, 
 Garelochhead, &c. 
 
 Through Carriages are run by certain Trains between GREENOCK (Princes Pier), and 
 EDINBURGH (Waverley), and by the Morning and Evening Express Trains between 
 GREENOCK (Princes Pier) and London (St. Pancras). 
 
 RETURN TICKETS issued to COAST TOWNS are available for RETURN AT ANY 
 TIME. 
 
 Passengers are landed at Princes Pier Station, from whence there is a Covered Way to the 
 Pier where the Steamers call ; and Passengers’ Lnggage is conveyed free of charge 
 between the Station and the Steamers. 
 
 ARRAN AND THE AYRSHIRE COAST. 
 
 An Express and Fast Train Service is given between GLASGOW (St. Enoch), PAISLEY, 
 and TROON, PRESTWICK, AYR, ARDROSSAN, FAIRLIE, &c. 
 
 From ARDROSSAN the Splendid Saloon Steamer “ BRODICK CASTLE ” sails daily to 
 and from the ISLAND OF ARRAN, in connection with the Express Train Service. 
 
 IBELA^D. 
 
 A DAYLIGHT SERVICE is given via STRANRAER AND LARNE, and a NIGHTLY 
 SERVICE by the Royal Mail Steamers via Greenock and via Ardrossan, in connection with 
 which Tourist Tickets are issued to KILLARNKY, CORK, CONNEMARA, GIANT’S 
 
 CAUSEWAY, &c._ 
 
 For Particulars as to Trains and Steamers see the Company's Time Tables. 
 
 W. J. WAINWRI 3 HT, General Manager. 
 
4 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY. 
 
 From and to Irongate and St Katherine’s Wharf , near the Tower. 
 
 LONDON AND BOULOGNE. —For departures see Daily Papers. FAKES—London to Boulogne, 
 10s., or 7s. ; Return 15s. 6d. or 11s. 
 
 LONDON AND HAVRE.*— Every Thursday. Prom Havre—Every Sunday. FARES—Chief 
 Cabin, 13s.; Fore Cabin, 9s.; Return Tickets, 20s. 6d. and 14s. 
 
 LONDON AND OSTEND. —Wednesday and Sunday.—Prom Ostend — Tuesday and Friday. 
 FARES, Chief Cabin, 15s.; Fore Cabin, 10s. Return, 23s. and 15s. 6 d. 
 
 LONDON AND ANTWERP. —Every Tuesday and Saturday. Prom Antwerp—Every Tuesday 
 and Friday. FARES, Chief Cabin, 16s. ; Fore Cabin, 11s. Return, 25s. and 17s. 
 
 LONDON AND HAMBURG. —Every Thursday and Saturday. Prom Hamburg—Monday and 
 Thursday. FARES, Chief Cabin, 40s.; Fore Cabin. 20s. Return Tickets, 61s. 6 d. and 31s. 
 
 LONDON AND BORDEAUX.— Every Thursday. From Bordeaux—Every Friday. FARES, 
 Chief Cabin, 31.; Fore Cabin, 21. Return Tickets, Chief Cabin, 61.; Fore Cabin, 31. 6s. 8d. 
 
 LONDON AND ! ITALY.— Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Messina, and Palermo.—Every 
 alternate Wednesday. Apply at Chief Office for further particulars. 
 
 LONDON AND OPORTO.— Every three weeks. FARES, 84s., Chief Cabin only ; Ladies, 10s. extra. 
 
 LONDON AND EDINBURGH (Granton Pier).— Every Wednesday and Saturday. Prom 
 Edinburgh (Granton Pier)—Every Wednesday and Saturday. FARES, Chief Cabin, 22s.; Fore Cabin, 16s. 
 Return, 34s. and 24s. 6d. Deck (Soldiers and Sailors only), 10s. 
 
 LONDON AND HULL. *—Every Wednesday and Saturday, at 8 morn. From Hull—Every Wed¬ 
 nesday and Saturday. FARES, Saloon, 8s.; Fore Cabin, 6s. Return Tickets, 12s. 6 d. and 9s. 6<Z. 
 
 Steward’s Fees are included in above Fares and Return Tickets are available for two months. 
 
 * Summer Service only. 
 
 YARMOUTH AND MARGATE AND RAMSGATE.-From London Bridge Wharf. During 
 the summer there are special Passenger Services. 
 
 For Bank Holiday arrangements see Special Advertisements. 
 
 During the season Excursion Tickets to the near Continental Ports are issued at reduced fares. 
 
 For further particulars apply to the Secretary, 80 , Great Tower Street, London, E.C., or 
 14 , Waterloo Place, S. W. 
 
 SUMMER TOURS IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 GLASGOW & THE HIGHLANDS. 
 
 (Royal Route via Crinan and Caledonian Canals.) 
 
 The Royal New Mail Steamers— Grenadier, Claymore, Columba, Iona, Moun¬ 
 taineer, Clansman, Glencoe, Chevalier, Pioneer, Clydesdale, Glengarry, Gon¬ 
 dolier, Cavalier, Staffa, Linnet, Fingal, Lochiel, Islay, and Inverary Castle, 
 
 Sail during the Season for ISLAY, LOCHAWE, OBAN, FORT-WILLIAM, INVERNESS, 
 STAFFA, IONA, GLENCOE, TOBERMORY, PORTREE, STROME-FERRY, GAIR- 
 LOCH, ULLAPOOL, LOCH 1 NVER, & STORNOWAY ; affording Tourists an opportunity 
 of visiting the magnificent Scenery of Lochawe, Glencoe, the Cuchullin Hills, Loch 
 Scavaig, Loch Coruisk, Loch Maree, and the famed Islands of Staffa and Iona. 
 
 Official Guide Book, 3 d. Illustrated,6d.; cloth gilt, Is. Time-Bills, with Map and Tourist 
 Fares, free, of Messrs. Chatto and Windtjs, Publishers, 214 , Piccadilly, London ; or by post 
 from the owner. DAVID MACBRAYNE, 119 , Hope Street, Glasgow. 
 
 GLASGOW, BELFAST, BRISTOL, CARDIFF, AND SWANSEA. 
 
 Carrying goods for Newport (Mon.) Exeter, Gloucester, Cheltenham, &c., &c. 
 
 The Screw Steamships “ Solway," “ Avon,” "Severn," “Princess Alexandra," or other 
 Steamers are intended to sail (unless prevented by circumstances) from Glasgow, 
 calling at Greenock. 
 
 To Bristol vid Belfast every Monday and Thursday at 2 p.m. 
 
 To Swansea every Friday.2 p.m. 
 
 To Cardiff every Friday.„ 2 p.m. 
 
 Bristol to Glasgow via Belfast every Monday and Thursday. 
 
 Swansea to Glasgow every Wednesday. 
 
 Cardiff to Glasgow via Swansea every Monday. 
 
 These SteamerB have very superior accommodation for passengers, and afford a favourable opportunity for 
 making excursions from West of England to Ireland and Scotland. 
 
 Pares to or from GlasgowCabin, 20s. Steerage, 12s. 6d. Soldiers and Sailors, 10s. 
 „ „ Belfast;— „ 17s. 6d. „ 10s. 
 
 ReturnsCabin and Steerage, Pare and Half, available for Two Months. 
 
 For rates of freight and further particulars, apply to 
 
 WILLIAM SLOAN & Co., 140 , Hope Street, Glasgow. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 5 
 
 AIX - LA 
 
 GRAND MONARQUE HOTEL. 
 
 Close by the Railway Stations and the Baths. 
 
 NTJELLEN’S HOTEL. 
 
 Opposite the Fountain “ Eliza.” 
 
 CHAPELLE. 
 
 KAISERBAD HOTEL (built in 1865 ). 
 The principal Spring rises in the Hotel itself. 
 
 NEUBAD HOTEL. 
 
 (Renovated in 1879 .) 
 
 Mr. G. F. DREMEL is the Proprietor of these four hotels of European reputation. The combination in 
 one hand of Four Establishments of such magnitude, enables Mr. Dremel to afford suitable accommodation 
 to all comers; to visitors to whom money is no object, as well as to parties desirous of living at a moderate 
 rate of expense. “ Excellent Hotels,” vide Murray. 
 
 AIX -LA- CHAPELLE. 
 TTOYER’S IMPERIAL CROWN HOTEL, 
 bl near the Kurhaus and Bath-houses, with 
 large Garden. Very comfortable Apart¬ 
 ments. Single Rooms. Excellent Cooking, 
 and attentive attendance. Very Moderate 
 Charges, and advantageous arrangements for 
 Winter. OTTO HOYER. 
 
 PRINCESS ALICE. 
 
 PRINCESS ALICE’S LETTERS to II.M. 
 the Queen. A Popular Edition , with an 
 Original Memoir by H.R.H. Princess 
 Christian. Containing Extracts, hitherto 
 unpublished, from the Diary of H.M. the 
 Queen. With Portrait, Cr. 8vo., 7 s. 6 d. 
 
 John Murray, Albemarle Street. 
 
 AMIENS. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DU RHIN, 
 
 PLACE ST. DENIS. 
 
 "pIRST-CLASS HOTEL, near to the Cathedral and Railway 
 -L Station. Much frequented by English and Americans. Spacious 
 Apartments and airy Bed Rooms. Private and Public Saloons. Warm 
 Baths. Large Garden. Omnibus to and from each Train. English 
 Interpreter. The house is newly furnished. 
 
 CH. FICHEUX, Proprietor. 
 
 A AMIENS. 
 
 TTOTEL DE L’UNIVERS.—First-Class Hotel, facing St. Denis’ 
 
 Square, near the Railway Station. Three minutes’ walk to the Cathedral. Drawing 
 and Bath Rooms. English Interpreter. 
 
 Omnibus of the Hotel at every Train. 
 
 A AMIENS. 
 
 LTOTEL DE FRANCE, D’ANGLETERRE, and DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 H BRULE, Proprietor.—First-Class Hotel, one of the oldest on the Continent. Situated 
 in the centre and the finest part of the town. Having recently been newly furnished, it offers 
 great comfort. Families and Single Gentlemen accommodated with convenient Suites of 
 Apartments and Single Rooms. 
 
 OMNIBUS AT STATION. ENGLISH SPOKEN. 
 
 A ANTWERP. 
 
 HOTEL DU GRAND LABOTJREUR. 
 
 T HIS Hotel occupies the first rank in Antwerp, and its position is most 
 delightful. The testimonials given by Families is the best assurance of its Comfort 
 and Moderate Charges. OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. 
 
 New Proprietor, CHODOIR NOPPENEY. 
 
 Crown 8vo., 24 s. 
 
 THE HANDBOOK OF PAINTING.—THE GERMAN, 
 
 FLEMISH, AND DUTCH SCHOOLS. Based on the Handbook of Kugler. 
 Originally edited by the late Dr. Waagen. Third Edition. Revised and in part 
 re-written. By J. A. Crowe, Author of ‘ The History of Italian Painting.’ 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. 
 
6 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 ANTWERP. 
 
 HOTEL ST. ANTOINE. 
 
 PLACE VERTE, OPPOSITE THE CATHEDRAL. 
 
 rpHIS excellent First-Class Hotel, which enjoys the well- 
 merited favour of Families and Tourists, has been Newly Furnished 
 and Decorated. Great Comfort, Superior Apartments, and Moderate 
 Charges. Elegant Sitting, Reading and Smoking Rooms; fine Salle a 
 Manger, excellent Table d’Hote and choice Wines. 
 
 English, American, and French Papers. 
 
 TELEPHOKTE. 
 
 BATHS IN 
 
 AVRANCHES. 
 
 Grand Hfitel d’Angleterre 
 
 DECOMMENDS itself by Excellent Ar- 
 rangements, its Table, and its Comfort. 
 Apartments for Families. English Papers. 
 Moderate Prices. Omnibus at all the 
 Trains. A HOULLEGATTE, Proprietor. 
 
 HE HOTEL. 
 
 AVRANCHES. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK FOR FRANCE, 
 
 Part I. 
 
 NORMANDY, BRITTANY, PYRENEES, 
 
 &c. Maps and Plans. Post 8vo. Is. 6 d. 
 JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. 
 
 BADEN - BADEN. 
 
 VICTORIA HOTEL. 
 
 Proprietor, Mr. FRANZ GROSHOLZ. 
 
 THIS is one of the finest-built and best-furnished First- 
 A Class Hotels, main front South-east—south, situated in the new 
 Promenade nearest the Kursaal and the famous Frederic Baths; it 
 commands the most charming views, and is reputed to be one of the best 
 Hotels in Germany. Principally frequented by English and American 
 Travellers. Highly recommended in every respect. Prices moderate. 
 English and other journals. 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA COUR DE BADE. 
 
 Badischer Hof. 
 
 (Not to be confounded with the Hdtel de la Ville de Bade, opposite the 
 Bailway Station.) 
 
 A FIRST-RATE and large Establishment near the Promenade and 
 
 the Conversation House, with extensive Gardens, Warm, Mineral, and other Baths, 
 enjoying a well-merited reputation for its great comfort and attention. It is patronised by 
 the most distinguished Families. 
 
 Manager, Mr. Fr. ZIEGLER. 
 
 BADEN - BADEN. 
 
 grand hotel belle-vue. 
 
 THIS excellent First-class Hotel, delightfully situated in the centre of a 
 I fine Park near the English Church, close to the Lawn Tennis grounds, will be found 
 a most agreeable residence. Exceptional position, with superb view. Really well-kept, 
 and Moderate Charges. Arrangements made for a longer stay. Well recommended. 
 Baths in the House. RIOTTE, Proprietor. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 7 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 HOLLAND HOTEL 
 
 And DEPENDANCE AU BEAU SEJOUR. 
 
 OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND. 
 
 THIS favourite First-class Establishment, with a beautiful Garden, is 
 situated close to the Conversation House, nearest to the Frederic Bath (new vapour baths) 
 and adjoining the Duchess of Hamilton’s Park. It is principally patronised by English and 
 American Travellers for its Comfort, moderate and fixed charges, excellent cooking, and 
 choice Wines. Smoking and Reading Rooms with Piano, and Library. Baths. Prize 
 Medals for Wines, Vienna, 1873, Philadelphia, 1876, &c., &c. Pension in the earlt 
 and later part of the Season. Rooms from 2 s. and upwards. Conducted under the 
 immediate Superintendence of the Proprietor, A. ROESSLER. 
 
 BAGNERES DE BIGORRE. 
 
 Grand Hdtel Beau-Sejour. 
 
 First-Class. 
 
 The most comfortable and the best situated. 
 
 BASLE. 
 
 HOTEL SCHRIEDER ZUM 
 DEUTSCHEN HOF. 
 
 O PPOSITE the Baden Railway Station. 
 
 Comfortable accommodation. Moderate 
 Charges. 
 
 M. ERNE, Proprietor. 
 
 BELFAST. 
 
 THE IMPERIAL 
 
 H n tip t 
 
 Vi/ X XSl Xu i 
 
 Just Re-decorated and Enlarged. First-Class. Best Situation. 
 
 Omnibuses meet all Trains and Steamers. 
 
 W. J. JURY, Proprietor. 
 
 BERLIN. 
 
 HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE, 
 
 2, SCHINKEL-PLACE, 2. 
 
 SITUATED IN THE FINEST AND MOST ELEGANT PART OF THE TOWN. 
 Near to the Central Station, Friedrich-strasse, and to the Royal Palaces, Museums, and 
 
 Theatres. 
 
 S INGLE Travellers and large Families can be accommodated with entire Suites of Apart¬ 
 ments, consisting of splendid Saloons, airy Bedrooms, <fcc., all furnished and carpeted 
 in the best English style. First-rate Table d’Hote, Baths, Equipages, Guides. Approved 
 Hydraulic Lifts for Passengers and Luggage. Times and Galignani’s Messenger taken in. 
 Residence of Her British Majesty's Messengers. 
 
 R. SIEBELIST, Proprietor. 
 BERLIN. 
 
 THE KAISEEHOF. 
 
 Wilhelmsplatz. Zietenplatz. 
 
 HiHE largest and most commodious First-Class Hotel in Berlin. Situated 
 •*- in an elegant, quiet, and magnificent part of the city. 
 
 BERLIN. 
 
 8T. PETERSBURG HOTEL 
 
 UNTER DEN LINDEN, 31 . 
 
 C LOSE to the Central Station, Friedrich- 
 strasse. Old reputed first-class Hotel. 
 Excellent Table d’Hote four o’clock. Near 
 to the Imperial Palace, University, Museum, 
 Grand Opera, &c. Prop. Julius Heudtlass. 
 
 With Portrait and other Illustrations. 
 
 2 vols. Medium 8 vo., 42 s. 
 
 ALBERT DURER: HIS LIFE 
 and Works. By Professor Dr. Thadsing. 
 Translated from the German. Edited 
 by Frederick A. Eaton, Secretary of 
 the Royal Academy. 
 
 John Murrat, Albemarle Street. 
 
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 BIDEFORD. 
 
 "M'EW INN HOTEL, the oldest, largest, and principal Hotel in the 
 ■*-’ Town. It stands within 3 miles of Westward Ho! 8 miles of the Hobby Drive, 
 and 11 miles of the romantic fishing village of Clovelly ; is pleasantly situate in the most 
 central part of the town, and commands very extensive views of the river Torridge and 
 surrounding country. 
 
 HENRY ASGOTT, Proprietor. 
 BONN. " ” 
 
 GRAND HOTEL ROYAL. 
 
 O N the Banks of the Rhine. European repute. 200 Rooms and Salons. 
 
 Situation without equal, facing the Rhine, Seven Mountains and Park. Near the 
 Landing-place and Railway Station. Extensive English Gardens. Reading and Smoking 
 Rooms. Ladies’ Salons. Arrangements on the most moderate terms for the Winter 
 Pension. Warm and Cold Baths in the Hotel. 
 
 BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL C HRI8T0L & BRISTOL. 
 
 First-class Hotel. 
 
 Best Situation in the Town. Highly recommended 
 for Families and Gentlemen. 
 
 Carriage in Attendance on Arrival of all Trains and Boats. 
 SAGNXER and F. CHRISTO!., Proprietors. 
 
 BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. 
 
 HOTEL DERVAUX—GRANDE RUE. 
 
 r pHIS First-Class, well-known Family Hotel has been 
 -t lately renovated, and is now under the management of M. DER- 
 VAUX, pbre, the former proprietor and founder of the Hotel. Superior 
 Cuisine. Well-selected Wines, and Moderate Prices. 
 
 BREMEN. 
 
 HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 First-Glass English Hotel. Entirely Renovated. Highly Recommended. 
 
 LUSCHE-BAUR, Proprietor. 
 
 t? I HOTEL BAUR AU LAC, ZURICH. 
 
 D ormeny ot H0TEL DE KUSSIE, BERLIN. 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 HOTEL MENGELLE 
 
 Hydraulic Lift. (RUE ROYALE). Hydraulic Lift. 
 
 B. MENGELLE, Proprietor. 
 in HIS large and beautiful First-Class Hotel is situated in the finest and 
 1 most healthy part of the Town, near to the Promenades the most frequented, and is 
 supplied with every modem accommodation and comfort. Table d’Hote at 6 and ?. 15 , 
 five francs. Restaurant h la carte, and at fixed prices, at any hour. Excellent “ Cuisine ” 
 and Choice Wines. The Largest and Finest Dining-Room in the Town. 
 
 IIIDRAILIC MFT. 
 
 Baths, Smoking. Room, Reading Room, Billiard Room. 
 
 Arrangements made with Families during the Winter Season. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 9 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 G RAND HOTEL. Rooms from 3 francs. Arrangement for a long 
 stay. Magnificent Dining Room, Smoking Room, and Cafe. Billiard Room. Lift. 
 Baths. Railway and Telegraph Office in the Hotel. 
 
 Omnibus at all the Trains. 
 
 A BRUSSELS. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA POSTE. 
 
 28, RUE FOSSE AUX LOUPS, NEAR THE PLACE DE LA MONNAIE. 
 
 FAMILY HOTEL SPECIALLY RECOMMENDED TO ENGLISH TRAVELLERS. 
 
 Omnibus to the Hotel at the Station. English spoken. 
 
 HYACINTHE TILMANS, Proprietor. 
 
 ’ BRUSSELS^ ~ ~ 
 
 GRAND HOTEL GERNAY. 
 
 Moderate Charges. Ancien Proprietaire de VHotel de Portugal a Spa. 
 This Hotel is close to the Railway Station for Ostend, Germany, Holland, Antwerp, 
 and Spa, forming the Comer of the Boulevards Botanique et du Nord. 
 
 Baths in the Hotel. 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 HOTEL DE SUEDE. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, in a thoroughly central position near the New Boulevards. 
 
 EXCELLENT TABLE D’HOTE. CHOICE WINES. 
 
 VAN CUTSEM, Proprietor. 
 
 ^ CANNES. 
 
 HOTEL DES PINS* 
 
 HIRST-CLASS Hotel. Highly recommended by Physicians for its 
 *- salubrity and its sanitary situation. Lift and Telephone. 
 
 L. GR.ENET, Proprietor. 
 
10 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 CAEN. 
 
 HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE, 
 
 Rue St. Jean, Nos. 77, 79, 81. 
 
 Situated in the Centre of the Town. Rendezvous of the 
 best Society. 
 
 100 Elegantly Furnished and Comfortable Bed Booms and 
 Sitting Booms. 
 
 BREAKFASTS A LA CARTE. 
 
 bbojei at table btote, 4 mmcs. 
 
 SUITES OF APARTMENTS FOR FAMILIES. 
 
 ENGLISH AND SPANISH SPOKEN. 
 
 L. MANCEL, Proprietor. 
 
 CANNES. 
 
 HOTEL BEAU SITE. 
 
 AND 
 
 HOTEL DE L'ESTEREL. 
 
 B OTH situated at the West End of Cannes, in the midst 
 of a most splendid Garden, and adjoining Lord Brougham’s 
 property; the healthiest part of the Town. 
 
 300 Rooms and Private Sitting Rooms. 
 
 Enlarged Drawing Boom, separate Beading Boom (added this 
 season ), Smoking and Billiard Boom , with English Tables. 
 
 BATH ROOM. LIFT WITH SAFETY APPARATUS. 
 
 THREE LAWN TENNIS COURTS, 
 CONSIDERED THE FINEST AND LARGEST IN CANNES. 
 
 The Sanitary arrangements of the Hotel have been perfected 
 during the Summer under the suggestions and superintendence of 
 Mr. E. F. Griffith, Civil Engineer, of London. 
 
 ARRANGEMENTS MADE. 
 
 GEORGES GOUGOLTZ, Proprietor. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 11 
 
 CHRISTIANIA (Norway). 
 
 GRAND HOTEL. 
 
 J. FRITZNER, Proprietor. 
 
 HP HIS First-Class Hotel, delightfully situated in the best 
 part of the Town, opposite the Public Parks, the House of Parlia¬ 
 ment, and close to the Royal Palace, commands a charming view of the 
 Christiania Fjord, and the surrounding mountains. Table d’Hote. Warm 
 and Cold Baths in the Hotel. English Newspapers taken in. Omnibus 
 at the Railway and Steam-boat Stations. Moderate Charges. 
 
 COBLENTZ. 
 
 GIANT HOTEL—HOTEL DU GEANT. 
 
 T HE best situated First-Class Hotel, just opposite the landing-place of 
 the Steam-boats and Fortress Ehrenbreitstein. Excellent Cuisine and Cellar. 
 Moderate Charges. Reduction for a long residence. 
 
 Proprietors, EISENMANN Bros. 
 
 COLOGNE. 
 
 HOTEL DISCH. 
 
 First-Class Hotel newly refitted ; near the 
 Cathedral and Central Station. Omnibuses 
 meet every Train. Large stock of Choice 
 Wines for wholesale. Hydraulic Lift. 
 
 J. PH. CHRISTOPH, Proprietor. 
 
 COLOGNE. 
 
 HOTEL DU DOME. 
 
 Th. Metz.— This old and excellent House, advan¬ 
 tageously situated in the centre of the City, near the 
 Cathedral and the Central Railway Station, has 
 undergone important improvements that make it 
 very comfortable. Table d'Hdte 1 o’clock. Caf6 du 
 Dome adjoining the Hotel. Recommended to Eng¬ 
 lish Tourists. Terms Moderate. 
 
 CONSTANCE. 
 
 HOTEL A PENSION KONSTANZERHOF 
 
 (ON THE LAKE.) 
 
 INSEL HOTEL 
 
 (ON THE LAKE.) 
 
 X'XK.ST - KATE HOTELS. 
 
 A. GUTZSCHEBAUCH, Manager. 
 COPENHAGEN. 
 
 HOTEL KONGEN OF DENMARK. 
 
 HTHIS First-Class Hotel, much frequented by the highest 
 J- class of English and American Travellers, affords first-rate accom¬ 
 modation for Families and Single Gentlemen. Splendid situation, close 
 to the Royal Palace, overlooking the King’s Square. Excellent Table 
 d’Hote. Private Dinners. Best attendance. Reading Room. Hot 
 Baths. Lift. English, French, German, and American Newspapers. 
 All Languages spoken. Moderate Charges. 
 
 The only Vienna Coffee House. Mythological Gallery. 
 
 R. KLUM, Proprietor. 
 
12 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 COLOGNE ON THE RHINE. 
 
 JOHAM MARIA FARINA, 
 GEGENUBER DEI JtJLICH’S PLATZ 
 
 (Opposite the Julich’s Place), 
 
 PURVEYOR TO H.M. QUEEN VICTORIA; 
 
 TO H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES; 
 
 TO H. M. WILLIAM KING OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA; 
 THE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA; 
 
 THE KING OF DENMARK, ETC. ETC., 
 
 OF JHB 
 
 ONLY GENUINE EAU DE GOLOGNE, 
 
 Which obtained the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris 
 Exhibition of 1867 . 
 
 T'HE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the most 
 L part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, Induces me to request 
 the attention of English travellers to the following statement:— 
 
 The favourable reputation which my Eau de Cologne has acquired, since its invention by 
 my ancestor in the year 1709, has induced many people to imitate it; and in order to be able 
 to sell their spurious article more easily, and under pretext that it was genuine, they pro¬ 
 cured themselves a firm of Farina, by entering into partnership with persons of my name 
 which is a very common one in Italy. 
 
 Persons who wish to purchase the genuine cmd original Eau de Cologne ought to be parti¬ 
 cular to see that the labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Farina, 
 but also the additional words, gegeniiber dem Julich’s Platt (that is, opposite the Julich’s 
 Place), without addition of any number. 
 
 Travellers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned against 
 being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties, who offer their serviceB 
 to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and shop are In the same house, 
 situated opposite the Julich’s Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the 
 said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where, 
 notwithstanding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly the half part of 
 the price paid by the purchaser, who, of course, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a 
 high price and a bad article. 
 
 Another kind of imposition is practised in almost every hotel In Cologne, where waiters, 
 commissioners, kc., offer to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine one, 
 and that I delivered it to them for the purpose of selling it for my account. 
 
 The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally at my 
 house, opposite the Julich’s Place, forming the comer of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt 
 and Oben Marspforten, No. 23 , and having in the front six balconies, of which the three 
 bear my name and firm, Johamn Maria Farina, Gegeniiber dem Jfllich’s Platz. 
 
 The excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact that the 
 Jurors of the Great Exhibitions in London, 1861 and 1862, awarded to me the Prize Medal; 
 that I obtained honourable mention at the Great Exhibition in Paris, 1866 ; and received 
 the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition of 1867, and in 
 Oporto 1866. 
 
 Cologne, January, 1886. JOHANN MARIA FARINA, 
 
 GEGENUBER DEM JULICH’S PLATZ. 
 
 %* Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 38, Queen Street , Cannon Street , E.C., 
 are my Sole Agents for Great Britain and Ireland. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 13 
 
 COWES, Isle of Wight. 
 
 DROVER’S MARINE HOTEL. 
 
 PARADE. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. 
 
 The Comfort of Visitors carefully studied. 
 Board on Low Terms during the Winter Months. 
 
 DIEPPE. 
 
 HOTEL R O Y AL. 
 
 Facing the Beach, close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade. 
 
 F IS ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS 
 
 IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the Sea. Families and 
 Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this Establishment elegant Large and Small Apart¬ 
 ments, and the best of accommodation, at very reasonable prices. Large Reading Room, 
 with French and English Newspapers. The Refreshments, &c., are of the best quality. In 
 fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion expressed of it in 
 Murray’s and other Guide Books. 
 
 LARSONNEUX, Proprietor. 
 
 Table d’Hote and Private Dinners. *,* This Hotel is open all the Year. 
 
 DINARD, ILLE ET VILAINE (Brittany). 
 
 GRAND HdTEL DU CASINO. 
 
 T HIS First-Class Hotel is the nearest to the Casino and 
 Bathing Establishment. Splendid View of the Sea from 
 the Apartments, and from the Terrace adjoining the Garden of 
 the Hotel. Private Dining Saloons and Smoking Booms. 
 Table d’Hote at 11 o’clock a.m. and 6 o’clock p.m. Excellent 
 Cooking. Choice Wines. English Newspapers. Stabling. 
 
 L. BIARDOT, Proprietor. BOUDIN FILS, Successeur. 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 HOTEL BELLEVUE. 
 
 Situated on the river Elbe, facing the new Opera, the Gal¬ 
 leries, the Green Vaults, Cathedral, and Bruhl’s Terrace. 
 Well-known First-Class Establishment, with 150 Booms. 
 Families desirous of taking Apartments for the Winter can 
 make arrangements at very moderate prices. 
 
 LOUIS EEISTEL, Manager. 
 
14 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 VICTORIA^ HOTEL, j 
 
 T HIS First-rate Establishment, situated near the great public 
 Promenade, and five minutes from the Central Station for 
 Prague, Vienna, Berlin, Munich, Frankfort, Breslau, combines 
 comfort with elegance, and has the advantage of possessing a 
 spacious and beautiful Garden. 
 
 TWO SUPERIOR TABLES D’HOTE DAILY. 
 
 PRIVATE DINNERS AT ANY HOUR. 
 
 During the Winter, Board and Lodging at very moderate rates. 
 
 Mr. Weiss has an extensive Stock of the best Bhenish, 
 Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Spanish Wines, and will be most 
 happy to execute Orders at Wholesale Prices. 
 
 An Hydraulic Lift being fitted up. 
 
 DRESDEN. ~ 
 
 WEBER’S HOTEL. 
 
 E NGLISH and American visitors desiring a comfortable resi¬ 
 dence are respectfully invited to give this Hotel a trial. 
 
 It is situated in a delightful part of the city, overlooking the 
 Promenades, Gardens, and Galleries. Handsome Dining Room. 
 Reading Room well furnished with American, French, and 
 English Newspapers. During the Winter, Pension at very 
 advantageous terms. Elevator to all Floors. Telephone. 
 
 BERNHARD WEBER, Proprietor. 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 GRAND UNION HOTEL. 
 
 F IRST - CLASS HOTEL, patronized by English and 
 American families, situated in the finest part of the 
 town, close to the English and American churches. Very 
 favourable terms on Pension. 
 
 Hydraulic Elevator. Telephone. 
 
 RICHARD SEYDE, Proprietor. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 15 
 
 A DAVOS-PLATZ. 
 
 HOTEL and PENSION BELVEDERE. 
 
 L ARGE First-Class Hotel (open the whole year), particularly recommended to English 
 Travellers. Beautiful views, close to the Pine Forests. Lawn Tennis Ground and 
 Skating Rink. Splendid suite of Public Rooms, full-sized English Billiard Table. English 
 Library. Bank Agency in the Hotel. English Comforts and English Sanitary arrangements. 
 English Church 100 yards distant. Pension for a Week’s stay. 
 
 For further information apply to J. C. COESTER, Proprietor. 
 
 ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND^ 
 
 KURHAUS HOTEL ET PENSION TITUS. 
 
 T HIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL in the best situation of the Valley, 
 in the middle of an extensive garden, has been recently much 
 enlarged and improved. New lofty Dining Saloon for 200 persons. 
 Drawing Room. Large Reading Room, with English and American 
 Newspapers. Billiard and Smoking Room. Bath in the Hotel. 
 
 English Chapel in the Garden of the Hotel. 
 
 ED. CATTANI, Proprietor. 
 
 ENGELBERG. 
 
 THE VALLEY OF ENGELBERG (3200 ft. high) with its 
 
 KURHAUS AND HOTEL S0NNENBERG, 
 
 T HE property of Mr. H. HUG. Summer stay unrivalled by its grand 
 Alpine scenery, as well as by the curative efficacy of the climate against lung and chest 
 diseases, coughs, nervous ailments, &c., &c. Clear bracing air, equable temperature. Recom¬ 
 mended by the highest medical authorities. The HOTEL SONNENBERG in the finest 
 and healthiest situation facing the Titlis and the Glaciers is one of the most comfortable 
 and best managed hotels in Switzerland. Lawn Tennis Ground. Excellent and central 
 place for sketching, botanistng, and the most varied and interesting excursions. The 
 ascent of the Titlis is best made from here. Shady Woods. Vapour and Shower Baths. 
 Waterspriug 5 ° R.; 200 Rooms; Pension from 7 fr. a day upwards. Because of its so sheltered 
 situation specially adapted for a stay in May and June. Resident English Physician. 
 English Divine Service. 
 
 “ FLORENCE. 
 
 HOTEL DE LITIfflVEKS. 
 
 CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE. 
 
 Near the Caseine. Overlooking the Arno. Spacious Suite of 
 Apartments. Nice Garden. Moderate Charges. 
 
 ARRANGEMENTS FOR FAMILIES. 
 
 FRANKFORT-ON-MAIN. 
 
 P. A. TACCHI’S SUCCESSOES, 
 
 /iliiL, No. 44. 7 
 
 BOHEMIAN FANCY GLASS AND CRYSTAL WAREHOUSE. 
 
 Chandeliers for Gas and Candles in Glass and Brass. 
 
 Correspondent in England, Mr. LOUIS HENLfi, 3 , Budge Row, Cannon St., London, E.C. 
 
 FRAN KFORT-ON-TH E-MAINE. 
 
 TJZKTIOJXT HOTEL. 
 
 Late WEIDENBUSCH’S. 
 
 Well-known house, close to the Opera and Theatre. Moderate Prices. 
 
 F. W. KNOBLAUCH. 
 
16 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. 
 
 THE LARGEST AND BEST IN GENEVA. 
 
 MAYER & KUNZ, Proprietors. 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 RICHMOND FAMILY HOTEL. 
 
 CITUATED in the healthiest part of the town, border of the Labe, and 
 ^ facing the Jardin des Alpes and Mont Blanc. Breakfast from 1 frano 
 25 centimes; Lunch, 2 francs 50 centimes; Dinner, 3 francs 50 centimes. 
 Fifty Rooms, from 2 francs. Attendance 50 centimes. Omnibus at all 
 Trains. 
 
 Pension all the year round from 6 francs to 9 francs per day. 
 
 A. R. ARMLEDER, Proprietor. 
 
 GENOA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE GENES. 
 
 Messrs. BONERA AND BROTHERS. 
 
 PLACE CARLO FELICE, the most beautiful situation in the City. 
 
 (FULL SOUTH.) 
 
 This Hotel, formerly the Palazzo Marchese Spinola, was newly opened and entirely 
 re-furnished about two years ago. Its situation, opposite the celebrated Theatre Carlo 
 Felice, on the Piazza de Ferrari, the healthiest part of the town, in the vicinity of the 
 English Church, the Telegraph, the Post Office, the principal Public Buildings, and near 
 all the curiosities in the town; free from the noise of the Railway and the Harbour. Large 
 and small Apartments. Table d’Hote. Restaurant. Reading and Smoking Saloon. Bath 
 Rooms. Omnibus from the Hotel meets every Train. Moderate Charges. 
 
 GENOA. 
 
 NERVI. 
 
 HOTEL LONDRES 
 
 WINTER RENDEZVOUS, 
 
 ET 
 
 SHELTERED FROM THE N., 
 
 PENSION ANGLAISE. 
 
 N.E., and N.W. WINDS BY 
 
 The nearest to the Central 
 
 MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Station. 
 
 HOTEL 
 
 First Class. Full South. 
 
 AND 
 
 Moderate Prices. 
 
 PENSION VICTORIA. 
 
 FLECHIA & FIORONI. 
 
 GOOD, WITH LARGE GARDEN. 
 
 GMUNDEN, 
 
 AUSTRIA. 
 
 HOTEL BELLE VUE. 
 
 F ACING the Steamboat landing-place. Comfortable First - Class 
 Hotel. Highly recommended. Mr. BRACHER, the Proprietor, has been in England 
 and America, and knows the wants of English and American Travellers. Charges mode- 
 rate. Omnibus at the Station. Baths in the Hotel. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 17 
 
 A GOTHA. 
 
 HOTEL DEUTSCHER HOF. 
 
 Proprietor, L. STAEBLER. 
 
 First-rate Hotel, situated close to the 
 Promenades and near the Railway Station ; 
 combines comfort with elegance. Baths in 
 the House. Carriages. 
 
 GMUNDEN. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SOUTH GERMANY AND AUSTRIA, 
 TYROL, HUNGARY, &o. 
 
 Maps and Plans. Post 8vo. 10s. 
 John Murray, Albemarle Street. 
 
 GRENOBLE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE, 
 
 A FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL in every respect, thoroughly 
 ■Cl. renovated and refurnished; patronised by English families. Comfortable Rooms and 
 good Table. Information for Alpinists and Tourists. Carriages for Excursions. Omnibus 
 at every train. English Papers. English spoken. 
 
 BESSON, Proprietor. 
 
 GRENOBLE. 
 
 HOTEL MONNET. 
 
 T HIS splendidly-situated First-Class Hotel, which is the largest in the 
 Town, and enjoys the well-merited favour of Families and Tourists, 
 has been enlarged and Newly Furnished. The Apartments, largo and 
 small, combine elegance and comfort, and every attention has been paid 
 to make this one of the best Provincial Hotels. Public and Private 
 Drawing-rooms; English and French Papers. Table d’Hote at 11 and 6. 
 Private Dinners at any hour. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Charges. 
 The Omnibuses of the Hotel meet all Trains. 
 
 L. TRILLAT, Proprietor. 
 
 First-Class Carriages can he had at the Hotel for Excursions to the 
 Grande Chartreuse, Uriage, and all places of interest amongst the Alps 
 of Dauphine'. 
 
 URIAGE-LES-BAINS. 
 
 HOTEL RESTAURANT, MONNET. 
 
 Founded in 1846. English Visitors will find every comfort and luxury 
 in this First-Class Establishment. Private Rooms for Families. Excellent 
 Cuisine and Wines. Table d’Hote, 11 and 6. Carriages and Horses can 
 be had in the Hotel for Excursions and Promenades. 
 
 ^ HAMBURG. 
 
 HOTEL ST. PETERSBURG. 
 
 O LD-RENOWNED FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, situated on the Alster Bassin, 
 the most fashionable quarter of the town. Superior comfort and accommodation. 
 Table d’Hote and Restaurant a la carte. Charges Moderate. New Safety Lift. Telephone. 
 
 Gh REUTER, Proprietor. 
 
 A HAMBURG. 
 
 HOTEL DE L’EUEOPE. 
 
 T3ENOWNED FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, patronised by H.R.H. the 
 
 L v Prince of Wales, and by most of the Imperial and Royal Families of Europe. Splendid 
 situation, overlooking the Alster-Bassin. ISO Rooms and Apartments. Elegant Reading 
 and Smoking Rooms. Baths. Lift. Table d’Hfite. 
 
 BRETTSCHNEIDER and BANDLI, Proprietors. 
 
 0 
 
18 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 HANOVER. 
 
 UMIOIT MOTEL. 
 
 T HIS well-known First-Class Hotel, for Private Families and Single Gentlemen, is 
 beautifully situated right opposite the Railway Station. PENSION, FIVE MARKS, 
 and upwards. FRIEDRICH VOLKERS, Proprietor. 
 
 Also of the Grand Hotel des Bains, at Pyrmont. 
 
 HANOVER. 
 
 GO XT Tf PAY A T 
 
 V/ X Jca Xu Xt v/ X xX Xu * 
 
 (FIRST-CLASS HOTEL.) 
 
 S ITUATED in the best part of the City, and opposite the General Railway Station. 
 
 Large and small Apartments and Single Bed-Rooms for Gentlemen. Every comfort. 
 Baths in the Hotel. Moderate Charges. CHRIST BROS., Proprietor. 
 
 .. HARROGATE. 
 
 THE GRANBY.” 
 
 TDIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, facing the Stray. Every accom- 
 
 XJ modation for Visitors and Tourists. Carriages to Wells and Baths every morning 
 free ol charge. Good Stabling. Carriages on Hire. 
 
 W. H. MILNER, Proprietor. 
 
 HAVRE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL AND BAINS FRASCATI. 
 
 Open all the year. Table d’Hote. Restaurant facing the Sea. 
 
 Arrangements for Families. Pension from 12 fr. all the year round. 
 
 TH. FOTSCH, Directeur. 
 
 A HEIDELBERG. 
 
 HOTEL EUROPE. 
 
 rpHE finest and best situated Hotel in Heidelberg ; kept in the very superior and elegant style 
 1 of a First-class Family Hotel. The beautiful extensive Gardens are for the exclusive use 
 of the Visitors. Hot and Cold Baths fitted up in a superior manner in the Hotel. Omnibus 
 at the Station. Terms strictly moderate. Railway Tickets are Issued in the Hotel. 
 
 HAEFELI-GITJER, Proprietor. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 19 
 
 HEI DELB ERG.—Hotel Prince Charles. 
 
 A First-Class Hotel. In connection with the Hotel du Pavilion of Cannes. 
 
 C ONSIDERABLY enlarged by a New Building. Contains a splendid Dining Room, Breakfast Room, and a 
 fine Reading Room. Ten Balconies. This Hotel, patronised by their Highnesses the Prince of Wales 
 and Prince Alfred, is the largest in the Town, and thoroughly Renovated and Newly Furnished. Best 
 Cookery. Good Wines. Charges Reasonable. Moderate Arrangements made by the Week. The Hotel is 
 situated in an open Square, eight minutes’ walk from the celebrated Castle, with the finest view of the ruins 
 from all the balconies and nearly all the windows ; two minutes’ walk to the Neckar Bridge. Close to the 
 Nurnberg and Wurzburg Railway Station. Omnibus and Hotel Porter meet the Train. From this Hotel 
 there are three different roads leading to the Castle. Firstly, footpath over the Kurzen Buckel ; steps, five 
 minutes; sunny. Secondly, by the Burgweg ; eight minutes walk; shady; the finest. Thirdly, Neuer 
 Schlossweg; by carriage ; gentle ascent. The Proprietors export Wines to England. 
 
 *** Railway Tickets can be obtained at the Bureau of the Hotel, and Luggage booked to all Stations. 
 
 SOMMER & ELLMEB, Proprietors. 
 
 HEIDELBERG. 
 
 HOTEL DE DARMSTADT. 
 
 Three Minutes from the Station. This Hotel, 
 beautifully situated on the Bismarck Square, Two 
 Minutes from the new Neckar Bridge, is well 
 known for its good keeping and very moderate 
 prices. 
 
 H. KRALL, Proprietor. 
 
 HEIDELBERG. 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK. 
 
 NORTH GERMANY AND THE RHINE. 
 
 Maps and Plans. Post 8vo. 10s. 
 John Mur hay, Albemarle Street. 
 
 A HOMBURG. 
 
 TTOTEL BELLE VUE.—First-Class Hotel, exceedingly well situated, 
 J-l opposite the Park of the Kursaal, and close to the Springs. Families, and Single 
 Gentlemen, will find this Hotel one of the most comfortable, combining excellent accommo¬ 
 dation with cleanliness and moderate Charges. Best French and English Cooking. Excellent 
 Wines. Hare and Partridge Shooting free. 
 
 H. ELLENBERGER, Proprietor. 
 
 HOMBURG. 
 
 •OOYAL VICTORIA HOTEL.—Patronised by H.R.H. the Prince of 
 -L\j Wales and several other Royal Personages. Highest Position. First-Class Hotel, 
 close to the Springs and the Kursaal, with fine view of the Taunus Mountains. Quiet 
 Apartments. Has been newly enlarged by Three separated Villas.' At the early and 
 later part of the Season arrangements are made on very reasonable terms. Best Stag and 
 Roebuck Shooting, as well as Trout Fishing, free ior the guests of the Hotel. Lawn Tennis. 
 
 GUSTAVE WEIGAND, Proprietor. 
 
20 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 HYERES (VAR). 
 
 HOTEL BEAU SEJOUR. 
 
 SITUATED in the new and most select quarter of the Town. Open, 
 high, sheltered, and full South. Excellent Bed-Rooms, cheerful Salons, and perfect 
 sanitary arrangements. Moderate Charges. Omnibus at the Station. Two Villas to Let. 
 
 Ch. GrAFFRON, Proprietor. 
 
 HYERES (VAR). 
 
 GRAND HOTEL D’ORIENT. 
 
 T HIS Hotel is situated in the most salubrious and sheltered part of 
 Hyeres, and is the Resort of the elite of English and French Society. Drawing 
 Room Ml South. Billiards. 
 
 ENGLISH NEWSPAPERS. 
 
 F. AMIC, Proprietor. 
 
 ~ ILFRACOMBE^ 
 
 ROYAL CLARENCE 
 
 FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL. 
 
 {Old Established.) 
 
 TTAS recently been rebuilt with extra Bed Room accommodation. Com- 
 modious Coffee Room and Ladies’ Drawing Room. Billiards. 
 
 Omnibus meets every Train. 
 
 TARIFF ON APPLICATION. SPECIAL TERMS FOR BOARDING. 
 
 CHAS. E. CLEMOW, Proprietor. 
 
 And at Anderton’s Hotel, Fleet Street, London. 
 
 INTERLAKEN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA. 
 
 Magnificent First-class Family Hotel; the best 
 situated at Interlaken. 
 
 400 BEDS. 
 
 E L E V A T OR. 
 
 Special arrangements made for a stay of some time. 
 ED. RIJCHTI, Proprietor. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 21 
 
 ILFRACOMBE HOTEL. 
 
 T HE ILFRA.COMBE HOTEL, on the verge of the Atlantic. Five Acres of Ornamental Grounds; six 
 Lawn-Tennis Courts; 250 Rooms. Table d’Hote at Separate Tables daily from 6 to 8. There is 
 attached to the Hotel one of the Largest Swimming Baths in England ; also Private Hot and Cold Sea and 
 Fresh Water Baths, Douche, Shower, &c. Every information will be afforded by the Manager, Ilfracombe, 
 North Devon. The attractions of Ilfracombe, and the places of interest in the neighbourhood, point to it as the 
 natural centre to be chosen by the Tourist who desires to see with comfort all the beauties of Coast and 
 Inland Scenery which North Devon affords. There is also easy access into South Devon and Cornwall. 
 The means of communication with Ilfracombe by Railroad and Steamboat are most complete. Tourist 
 Tickets to Ilfracombe for Two Months are issued at all principal Stations. 
 
 INTERLAKEN. 
 
 HOTE L - PENSION, 
 
 JUNGFRAU. 
 
 F. SEILER-STERCHI, Proprietor. 
 
 'THIS Establishment, with two Branch Houses, is situated 
 in the centre of the Hoheweg, and enjoys a splendid view of the 
 Jungfrau and the entire range of the Alps. It recommends itself for its 
 delightful position, as well as for its comfortable accommodation. 
 
 TABLE D’HOTE AT 2 AND 6.30 O’CLOCK. 
 
 DINNERS A LA CARTE. 
 
 CARRIAGES, GUIDES, AND HORSES FOR 
 MOUNTAIN EXCURSIONS. 
 
 OMNIBUS WAITING AT ALL THE STATIONS. 
 
 A INNSBRUCK. 
 
 HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 TUTR. J. REINHART.—A new First-Class Hotel, 
 situated facing splendid valley of the Inn, 
 opposite Station. Excellent Table d’Hote and 
 private Dinners. Arrangements at very reasonable 
 prices. Well - furnished Apartments. English 
 Newspapers. Splendid situation; commanding 
 View of Mountains. English spoken. 
 
 LORD LYTTON’S NEW POEM. 
 
 GLENAVEEIL ; or, the Me¬ 
 tamorphoses : A Poem in Six 
 Books. By the Earl of Lytton. 
 Fcap. 8vo. 2s. each Book. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. 
 
 KARLSRUHE. 
 
 HOTEL GERMANIA. 
 
 S ITUATED a few minutes from the Railway Station, on the Public Gardens. This 
 First-Class Hotel is furnished with every modern comfort. 100 Rooms and Suites of 
 Apartments. Bed and attendance from 2 Marks. The whole of the house heated so as to 
 ensure comfort to Winter Visitors, for whom also Special Arrangements are made. Baths. 
 Lift. Omnibuses at the Station. JOSEF LEERS, Proprietor. 
 
 KISSINGEN. 
 
 HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. 
 
 T HIS First-Class Hotel is situated three minutes from the Springs and 
 the Kurgarten. Excellent Table d’Hote. Pension from 1 Marks each Person. 
 Omnibus at every Train. 
 
 L. MISMER, Proprietor. 
 
22 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 KILLARNEY. 
 
 THE X.JA.KE HOTEL. 
 
 The only Hotel in Killarney situated on the Lake Shore. 
 
 T HE HOTEL has lately come under new Proprietorship and Management; it is newly 
 fitted up, and nothing has been left undone to meet the views of Tourists with regard 
 to comfort and economy. 
 
 NOTICE OF THE PRESS.—It (THE LAKE HOTEL) is situated on the Bar of 
 Castlelough, on the eastern shore of the Lower Lake, directly on the water’s edge, and 
 within ten minutes’ drive of the Station. The Pleasure-Grounds cover an area of sixty 
 acres, and are richly wooded and tastefully laid out with evergreens, &c. Adjoining the 
 Hotel is the Abbey of Muckross—access at all times. The situation of the Hotel is un¬ 
 surpassed ; occupying the centre of the circle, described by the mountain-ranges of Man- 
 gerton, Tore, Eagle’s Nest, Purple Mountains, Glena, Toomies, Dunloe Gap, and Carrantual; 
 it concentrates in one view all that is graceful, picturesque, and sublime in the scenery of 
 Killarney. The Bed-Rooms and Sitting-Rooms face the Lake, and the arrangements of 
 the Hotel are all that can be desired.— Harper's Hand-Book for Travellers in Europe and 
 the East. E. M. BERNARD, Proprietor. 
 
 KISSINGEN (BATHS) GERMANY. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL SANNER. 
 
 rFHIS well-known First-class House, with 100 Bedrooms, 
 J- 30 Sitting Rooms, and 20 Balconies; all the rooms have an open 
 view, surrounded by a beautiful large garden. 
 
 Close to the Kurgarten, the Mineral Springs, and the Baths. 
 Every Accommodation. Pension. Fine Carriages. 
 
 MODERATE CHARGES. 
 
 ROBERT SCHMIDT, Proprietor. 
 
 KISSINGEN. 
 
 HOTEL KAISERHOF. 
 
 (< Ci-devant HOTEL KAISER). 
 IRST-CLASS HOTEL of old reputation, newly 
 Refitted. The nearest to the Springs and the 
 Baths. Situated in the middle of the Curgarten. 
 Table d’Hote and Diners k part. Pension in the 
 early and ‘the later part of the Season. English 
 w.c. and water appliances. 
 
 WALTNER, Proprietor, 
 
 KREUZNACH. 
 HOTEL ORANIENHOF. 
 
 L ARGEST First-Class House. Finest 
 situation in own grounds. Visited by 
 the Crown Princess of Germany. The 
 OranienspriDg, strongest mineral spring at 
 Kreuznach, belongs to Hotel. 
 
 H. D. ALTEN, Proprietor. 
 
 KREUZNACH (BAD). 
 
 PRIVATE HOTEL BAUM. 
 
 IRST-CLASS Family Hotel, best situated. Great cleanliness. Com¬ 
 fortable Baths. Beautiful Garden. Excellent Cooking, Choice Wines. 
 Pension moderate charges. Recommended. 
 
 JEAN BAPTISTE BAUM, Proprietor. 
 
 LAUSANNE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE RICHEMONT. 
 
 1 FINEST and best situated quiet First-Class 
 Hotel of Lausanne. Amongst large 
 gardens. In an exceedingly beautiful and 
 healthy position. Highly recommended. 
 
 Moderate Charges. Pension. 
 
 E.ITTEE.-WOLBOLD. 
 
 LE MANS. 
 
 GEAND HOTEL. 
 
 TjiORMERLY HOTEL DIOT et de la BOULE d’OR. Magnificent 
 J- situation. 30, Rue Pumas. Comfortable Bedrooms and Sitting-rooms for Families 
 and Tourists. Salons, Baths. Special Omnibus to the Station. English spoken. 
 
 J. CHARTER, Proprietor. 
 
 LOCH LOMOND. 
 
 TARBET HOTEL 
 
 I S the most commodious on the 
 Lake. Parties Boarded on Moderate 
 Terms. 
 
 A. H. MACPHERSON, Proprietor. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 23 
 
 LIMOGES. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE LA PAIX. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS HOUSE. Specially re¬ 
 commended to Families and Tourists. 
 Omnibus to Station. 
 
 J. MOT, Proprietor. 
 
 BYRON’S LIFE AND WORKS. 
 Poetical Works. Pearl Edition, Cr. 8vo., 
 2s. 6 d. Pocket Edition, 8 vols. 16mo. 
 In a Case, 21s. 
 
 Life, Letters and Journals. Cabinet 
 Edition. Plates. 6 vols. Fcap. 8vo., 18s.; 
 or one volume Roy. 8vo., 7s. 6 d. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. 
 
 LISBON. 
 
 BRAGANZA HOTEL 
 
 up HIS First-Class ■well-known Family Hotel, lately renovated by the 
 -L Royal House of Braganza, and fitted up by the new Proprietor, Victor C. Sassetti, 
 highly recommendable for its large, airy, and Comfortable Apartments, commanding the 
 most extensive and picturesque views of the River Tagus, as well as of Lisbon. Superior 
 Cuisine, and carefully-selected Wines. Under the same Management, within 2i hours’ 
 drive, VICTOR’S HOTEL, CINTRA. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRICES. 
 
 Travellers may save expense and trouble by purchasing Foreign Books in 
 England at the same Prices at which they are published in Germany or France. 
 
 WILLIAMS & NORGATE 
 
 1. CLASSICAL CATALOGUE. 
 
 2. THEOLOGICAL CATA¬ 
 
 LOGUE. 
 
 3. FRENCH CATALOGUE. 
 
 4. GERMAN CATALOGUE. 
 
 5. EUROPEAN LINGUISTIC 
 
 CATALOGUE. 
 
 6. ORIENTAL CATALOGUE. 
 
 7. ITALIAN CATALOGUE. 
 
 8. SPANISH CATALOGUE. 
 
 9. ART-CATALOGUE. Art,Archi¬ 
 
 tecture, Painting, Illustrated Books. 
 
 10. NATURAL HISTORY 
 CATALOGUE. Zoology, Bo¬ 
 tany, Geology, Chemistry, Mathe¬ 
 matics, &c. 
 
 SCIENCE 
 
 Mathematics, 
 Astronomy, Physics, Chemistry, 
 Technology. 
 
 12. MEDICAL CATALOGUE. 
 
 Medicine, Surgery, and the Depen¬ 
 dent Sciences. 
 
 13. SCHOOL CATALOGUE. Ele¬ 
 mentary Books, Maps, &c. 
 
 14. FOREIGN BOOK CIRCU¬ 
 LARS. New Books, and New 
 Purchases. 
 
 15. SCIENTIFIC-BOOK CIRCU¬ 
 LARS. New Books and Recent 
 
 Purchases. 
 
 ANY CATALOGUE SENT POST-FREE FOR ONE STAMP. 
 
 WILLIAMS & NORGATE, Importers of Foreign Books, 
 
 14, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London, and 
 20, South Frederick Street, Edinburgh. 
 
 have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock .— 
 
 11. NATURAL 
 CATALOGUE. 
 
 JOSEPH GILLOTT’S 
 
 STEEL PENS. 
 
 Sold by all dealers throughout the World. 
 
24 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 GOLD MEDAL, PARIS, 1878. 
 
 Gold Medal, Calcutta Exhibition, 1884. 
 
 Fry’s Cocoa 
 "K EED Extract. 
 
 “If properly prepared, there is no nicer or more whole¬ 
 some preparation of Cocoa.”-- nr. Hassaii. 
 
 “ Strictly pure, and well manufactured.”— w. w. stoddart, f.i.c., 
 
 F.C.S., Analyst for Bristol. 
 
 “ Pure Cocoa, from which a portion of its oily ingredients 
 has been extracted.” — Chas. A. Cameron, M.D., F.It.C.S.I., Analyst for Dublin. 
 
 21 PRIZE MEDALS AWARDED TO J. S. PRY & SONS. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 NEW AND CHOICE BOOKS. 
 
 More than One Hundred and Fifty Thousand Volumes of the Best Books of 
 the Past and Present Seasons are in Circulation at 
 
 MUDIE S SELECT LIBRARY. 
 
 The whole Collection comprises all the Best Modern Works of every 
 shade of opinion on all subjects of general interest. 
 
 Fresh Copies are added as the demand increases; and an ample supply 
 is provided of all the Leading Forthcoming Works as they appear. 
 
 SUBSCRIPTION, ONE GUINEA PER ANNUM. 
 
 LONDON BOOK SOCIETY SUBSCRIPTION, 
 
 For the Free Delivery of Books in every part of London, 
 
 TWO GUINEAS PER ANNUM. 
 
 Thousands of Families in London and the Suburbs already subscribe to this Department of 
 the Library, and obtain a constant succession of the Best Books of the Season. 
 
 BOOK SOCIETIES SUPPLIED ON LIBERAL TERMS. 
 
 Prospectuses postage free on application. 
 
 MUDIE’S SELECT LIBRARY (Limited), 
 30 to 34, New Oxford Street, London. 
 
 281, REGENT STREET, and 2, KING STREET, CHEAPSIDE. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 25 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 ROWLANDS 
 KALYDOR 
 
 cools and refreshes the face, hands and arms 
 of ladies and all exposed to the hot sun and 
 dust; it eradicates all freckles, tan, sunburn. 
 
 _stings of insects. &c., and produces a beautiful 
 
 and delicate complexion. 
 
 Wf A ft A SC il "O AT? preserves, strengthens, and beauti- 
 A:AAS.vPJLJLi ties the hair, and can be also had 
 in a golden colour, for fair or golden-haired children and persons. Sizes 
 3/6; 7/-; 10/6. equal to four small. 
 
 whitens and preserves the teeth, strengthens the gums, 
 and gives a pleasing fragrance to the breath. 
 
 0D0NT0 
 EUPLYSIA 
 
 is a botanical wash for cleansing the hair and 
 _ skin of the head from all impurities, scurf or 
 dandriff. 2/6 per bottle. 
 
 ■fjTyTy AWT 11 is a beautifully pure, delicate, and fragrant toilet 
 Jki U .ELXl 111 powder. Sold in three tints; white, rose and cream. 
 2/6 per box. 
 
 Ask any dealer in perfumery for Rowlands’ articles, of 20, Hatton Garden, 
 London, and avoid spurious worthless imitations. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 TRAVELLING MAPS 
 
 OF 
 
 Every Part of the World 
 
 AT LOWEST PRICES FOR CASH. 
 
 LETTS, SON & CO., LIMITED, 
 
 33, KING WILLIAM STREET, LONDON, E.C. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 UNRIVALLED TOURIST’S MAPS. 
 
 The Maps in LETTS’S POPULAR COUNTY 
 ATLAS are invaluable to Tourists, as they 
 contain just the useful and interesting- infor¬ 
 mation a traveller wants to know. 
 
 FOUR LARGE COUNTY MAPS FOR ONE SHILLING. 
 
 Please write for Prospectus to 
 
 LETTS, SON & CO., LIMITED, 
 
 33, KING WILLIAM STREET, LONDON BRIDGE, E.C. 
 
26 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 T*HE LONDON AND WESTMINSTER BANK, Limited, 
 
 X issues Circular Notes of £10, £25, and £50 each, for the use of Travellers 
 payable in the principal Towns on the Continent of Europe, also in Asia, Africa, 
 and North and South America. No expense whatever is incurred, and when cashed 
 no charge is made for commission. Letters of Credit are also granted on the same 
 places. They may be obtained at the City Office in Lothbury, or at any of the 
 Branches, viz.:— 
 
 Westminster Branch 
 Bloomsbury „ 
 
 Southwark „ 
 
 Eastern „ 
 
 Marylebone „ 
 
 May, 1885. 
 
 . 1, St. James’s Square. 
 . 214, High Holborn. 
 
 . 6, Borough, High St. 
 
 . 130, High St., White¬ 
 chapel. 
 
 . 4, Stratford Place, 
 Oxford Street. 
 
 Temple Bar Branch . 217, Strand. 
 
 Lambeth „ . 91, Westminster 
 
 Bridge Road. 
 
 South Kensington Branch, 1, Brompton 
 
 Square. 
 
 Victoria Street ,, Victoria Street, 
 S.W. 
 
 DIN N EFORD’S 
 MAGNESIA. 
 
 A Pure Solution. 
 
 For Acidity of the Stomach. 
 
 For Heartburn and Headache. 
 
 For Gout and Indigestion. 
 
 Safest Aperient for Delicate Constitutions, 
 Ladies, Children, and Infants. 
 
 DINNEFORD & CO., 180, New Bond Street, London. 
 
 Sold by Chemists throughout the World. 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 SGHWEIZERHOF LUZERNERHOF. 
 
 First-Class O otels. 
 
 IN THE BEST SITUATION. 
 
 600 BEDS. 
 
 SCHWEIZERHOF OPEN ALL THE YEAR. 
 Good Warming System for the Winter Season. 
 
 LIFT AT THE LUZERNERHOF TO ALL FLOORS. 
 
 Proprietors, HAUSER BROTHERS. 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 SWAN HOTEL. 
 
 T HIS HOTEL, in the very best situation, enjoys a high character. 
 
 Mr. HJCFELI, the Proprietor, has made in the later years a great many improve¬ 
 ments, and does his utmost to offer to his Visitors a comfortable home. An elegant new 
 Ladies’ Drawing Room, besides a Reading Room and Smoking Room. Cold, Warm, and 
 Shower Baths. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 27 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL NATIONAL. 
 
 SEGESSER BROTHERS and C IE ., Proprietors. 
 
 OPEN ALL THE YEAR. 
 
 T HIS large and splendid HOTEL is one of the most 
 comfortable in Europe. Situated in front of the Lake, with the 
 finest Views. Every attention paid to Tourists. 
 
 A LIFT FOR THE USE OF VISITORS. 
 
 LUCHON, BAGNERES DE. PYRENEES. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL RICHELIEU. 
 
 (Hotel de S. M. le roi de Hollande.') 
 
 200 Rooms, 10 Salons. Splendid view. 
 
 VILLA GRACIEUSE, AND VILLA RICHELIEU TO LET. 
 
 LOUIS ESTRADE, Proprietor. 
 
 LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. 
 
 ROYAL CASTLE FAMILY HOTEL. 
 
 Patronised by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales and other Members of the Royal Family. 
 
 The Finest Sea and Land Views in the World. 
 
 T HIS Hotel, standing in its own ornamental grounds of 120 acres, 500 feet above the level of the 
 sea, overlooking the Bristol Channel, commands uninterrupted views of the Valleys of the East and 
 West Lynn, Lynn Cliff, Brendon and Countisbury Hills, the Tors, the Village of Lynmouth, the Foreland, 
 the Welsh Coast, and the far-famed Valley of Rocks. Having been under the management of the present 
 proprietor nearly 50 years, the Hotel has been recently and extensively enlarged to meet the requirements of 
 modern Society, and combines the comfort of a private house with the conveniences of a First-class Hotel. 
 
 Elegant Suites of Private Apartments. New and commodious Table d’H5te, Coffee Room, and Ladies’ 
 Drawing Room, facing the sea. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Charges. 
 
 In connection with this Hotel, and in the same delightful grounds, is a PRIVATE HOTEL and BOARDING 
 HOUSE, which offers excellent accommodation for Families visiting this charming neighbourhood. 
 
 Post Horses and Carriages of every description. Coaches in the season to Barnstaple , 
 Ilfracombe , and Minehead. First-class Exmoor Ponies for Sale. 
 
 THOMAS BAKER, Proprietor. 
 
 LYNTON (NORTH DEVOnT 
 
 THE VALLEY OF ROCKS HOTEL. 
 
 T HIS favourite and beautifully situate First-Class Hotel is 
 
 built on one of the finest sites in the neighbourhood, and largely patronised by the 
 best Families. It has been considerably enlarged, remodelled, and improved; and combines, 
 with Moderate Charges, all necessary means for the accommodation and comfort of Families 
 and Tourists, The splendid Table d’Hote and Coffee Room, Reading Rooms, Ladies’ 
 Drawing Room, and several Private Sitting Rooms, replete with every comfort, range in a 
 long front, overlooking the Sea, and looking into the extensive Private Grounds of the 
 Hotel. It is most conveniently situate as a centre for visiting all the places of Interest in 
 the district. Handsomely-fitted Billiard Room open during the Season for Residents in the 
 Hotel only. 
 
 Post-Horses and Carriages; also the very best kind of Modern Stabling. 
 
 JOHN CROOK, Proprietor. 
 
 LYONS. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE LION. 
 
 PLACE DE LA BOURSE. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 
 
 Moderate Charges. 
 
28 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 MACON. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 Five minutes’ from the Station. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS, and well situated, with view of Mont Blanc. Recom¬ 
 
 mended to Families. Interpreters. Carriages. Omnibus. 
 
 Kme. Vve. BATAILLARD, Proprietress. 
 
 Macon, the most favoured Station for hours of arrival and departure, is the most central stopping-place 
 from Paris for Switzerland, Italy, the Mediterranean, and terminus for direct trains for Tours and Bordeaux. 
 
 MADRID. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE LA PAIX. 
 
 THE ONLY FRENCH HOTEL IN MADRID. 
 
 I DIRST-CLASS Hotel, Boarding-House, in the finest part of the Puerta 
 
 . del Sol, with magnificent views and full southern aspect. Table d’Hote. Private 
 service. Large and small apartments. Batfi. Reading-room, with Piano. Foreign News¬ 
 papers. Great comfort and cleanliness. French Cuisine. Omnibus at Railway Stations. 
 Interpreters. 
 
 Grand Hotel de Londres. Family Hotel. Annex of the Hdtel de la Paix, under 
 
 the same management. Moderate Prices. 
 
 T. CAPDEVIELLE & Co., 
 
 Proprietors of both Houses. 
 
 MARIENBAD. 
 
 HOTEL KLINGER. 
 
 TT'IRST and Largest Hotel, with private houses, HALBMAYR’S HOUSE, 
 U MAXHOF No. 100, and the recently opened HOTEL KLINGER, late Stadt Dresden, 
 “ connected with the Old House,” most beautiful situation of the Spa, situate at the corner 
 of the Promenade on the Kreuzbrunnen and the Park, commanding a charming view. 
 Newly and elegantly furnished. 350 Rooms and Saloons. Reading, Conversation, and 
 Smoking Rooms. Lift. Table d’hote and a la carte. Meals sent out into private houses. 
 Carriages at the Hotel. Omnibus at the Station. 
 
 In answer to several inquiries, the Proprietor begs to intimate that he does not keep 
 Touters, and therefore begs to warn Travellers against any false statements respecting Ms 
 Hotel being full, etc. 
 
 J. A. HALBMAYR, Proprietor. 
 
 MENTONE. 
 
 HOTEL DE BELLE VUE. 
 
 T HIS well-known ESTABLISHMENT is beautifully situated in the 
 
 best quarter of the Town, with a vast Garden, and affords every English comfort. 
 
 Lawn Tennis Court. Ascenseur. Lift. 
 
 G. ISNTARD, Proprietor. 
 
 MERAN (SOUTH TYROL.) 
 
 HOTEL HABSBURGER HOF. 
 
 N EWLY-BUILT First-Class Hotel, close to Railway Station (no 
 Omnibus required). Offers to Families and Single Tourists the best accommodation. 
 Beautiful situation full South. Elegant and comfortable Saloons and Rooms. Table 
 d’Hote, Restaurant. Pension at reduced prices. Careful attendance. Ladies’ and Reading 
 Rooms. Baths. Carriages. A. BRACHER, Proprietor. 
 
 M 
 
 OFFAT, 
 
 H 
 
 YDROPATHIC AND PENSION, 
 
 J^UMFRIESSHIRE, N.B. 
 
 For terms apply to Mr. FARQUHARSON, Resident Manager and Secretary. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 29 
 
 M I LAN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE MILAN. 
 
 VIA ALESSANDRO MANZONI. 
 
 THE ONLY HOTEL AT MILAN WITH A POST, TELEGRAPH, 
 AND RAILWAY OFFICE. 
 
 Hydraulic Lift. 
 
 J. SPATZ, 
 
 Co-proprietor of the Grand Hotel at VENICE, of the Grand Hotel at 
 LOCARNO, and of the Grand Hotel at LEGHORN. 
 
 MUNICH. 
 
 BAVARIAN HOTEL. HOTEL DE BAVIERE. 
 
 O SCAR SEIF, Proprietor. Excellent First-class Hotel. Finest and healthiest situation 
 on the Promenade Plate, near the Royal Theatres and Galleries. Every modem Comfort. Baths 
 and Carriages in the Hotel. Best Cooking and Wines. Moderate Charges. Personal management by 
 the Proprietor. Hydraulic Lift. 
 
 A MUNICH. 
 
 HOTEL DE BELLE VUE. 
 
 THIS Excellent and well-known First-class Hotel is situated near the 
 Railways, and within a short distance of the Royal Galleries and other prominent 
 Buildings. Personal management by the Proprietor. Moderate Charges. 
 
 C. DEGENKOLB, Proprietor. 
 
 ""MUNICH. 
 
 WIMMER & CO., 
 
 GALLERY OF FINE ARTS, 
 
 3, BRIENNER STREET, 
 
 Invite the Nobility and Gentry to visit their Gallery of Fine Abts, containing an 
 Extensive Collection of 
 
 MODERN PAINTINGS 
 
 by the best Munich Artists. 
 
 PAINTINGS ON PORCELAIN AND ON g la ss 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCracken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, 
 b.C., London. Correspondents in the United States, Messrs. Baldwin Bros. & Co. 
 53, Broadway, New York 
 
30 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 NANTES. 
 
 HOTEL DE FRANCE. 
 
 PLACE GRASLIN. VERY FINE. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS Hotel. Entirely renovated. Large and Small Apart- 
 
 ments for Families. Sitting Rooms. Bedrooms from 2 fr. Table d’hote. Restaurant. 
 Omnibus and Carriages. English spolcen. DOUET, Proprietor. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 M J 
 
 "CURST-CLASS and most Comfortable Hotel, situated in the finest 
 -L and most select part of Naples, with magnificent views of the Town, 
 Vesuvius, and the Bay. Hydraulic Lift. 
 
 ALFRED HAUSER, Proprietor. 
 
 -AGNIFICENT 
 First-Class 
 Establishment, con¬ 
 structed upon the 
 most improved prin¬ 
 ciples of hygiene and 
 comfort, and accord¬ 
 ing to best medical 
 advice. It stands on 
 the highest and 
 healthiest part of the City, where it commands an immense and incom¬ 
 parable panorama, and is recommended by the first Medical Authorities. 
 
 Although entirely isolated and surrounded by Gardens, it 
 is nearest to the Museum and Principal Monuments of the 
 City. 
 
 GRAND AND LUXURIOUS FURNISHING. 
 Large Sitting and Drawing Rooms. 
 Terraces. Distinguished Cooking. 
 
 POLITE AND READY ATTENDANCE. 
 
 The Proprietor and Manager, A, LANDRY, 
 
 From the Hotel Utliberg, near Zurich. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 HOTEL DE ROME. 
 
 FIRST-RATE HOTEL. 
 Incomparable situation facing the Sea and 
 overlooking the Bay and Mount Vesuvius. 
 Great Bath Establishment. 
 
 A. BRUSCHETTI, Manager. 
 
 NICE. 
 
 HOTEL DES PRINCES. 
 FIRST-CLASS Family Hotel, 
 
 situated on the Quai du Midi. Sheltered 
 situation, with a fine view of the Sea. 
 Charges Moderate. Same House, HOTEL 
 BELLE VUE, MENTONE. J. B. ISNAR.D. 
 
 Suisse. NEUCHATEL. Suisse. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE LAC. 
 
 W. TIAFEN, Proprietor. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, opposite the Steamers, with charming Views of the Lake and 
 Alps. Specially frequented by English Families. A very Comfortable House, with 
 most reasonable Prices. N.B.—The Proprietor speaks English. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 31 
 
 NEUHAUSEN-SCHAFFHAUSEN, Falls of the Rhine. 
 
 HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. 
 
 F. WEGENTSTEXItf, Proprietor. 
 
 THIRST-CLASS HOTEL, replete with, every comfort, in the 
 best position opposite the Falls of the Rhine, and Five minutes’ 
 walk from Neuhausen Station. 
 
 NO GRATUITIES to the SERVANTS. 200 ROOMS. 
 
 Splendid View of the Rhinefalls, the Castle of Laufen, 
 and the Swiss Alpine Chain. 
 
 FINE PARK AND GARDEN. 
 
 RAILWAY TICKETS ISSUED AT THE HOTEL. 
 
 Special arrangements for a stay of some time. 
 
 The English Ohnrch Service is at the Sehweizerhof. 
 
 Omnibuses at Neuhausen and Schaffhausen. 
 
 By means of Electricity and Bengal Lights, and directed from 
 the Sehweizerhof, 
 
 THE FALLS OF THE RHINE ARE ILLUMINATED 
 
 Every Night during the Summer Season. 
 
32 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 OSTEND. 
 
 H6TEL DE LA PLAGE. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL FACING THE BATHING PLACE. 
 
 Open from the ls( June to 1st November. Highly recommended. 
 
 J. and O. THOMA, Proprietors. 
 
 OSTEND. 
 
 OSTEND. 
 
 MERTI AN’S 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK 
 
 FIRST-CLASS 
 
 FOE 
 
 FAMILY HOTEL AND 
 
 BELGIUM and HOLLAND. 
 
 PENSION. 
 
 Maps, Plans. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 Close to the Sea and Kursaal. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. 
 
 T HE CLARENDON HOTEL. (Patronised by H.R.H. The Prince of Wales, H-R.H. 
 
 Prince Leopold, Their imperial Majesties the Emperor and Empress of Brazil, the 
 Princess Frederick Charles of Prussia, and Prince Louis Lucien Bonaparte.) Situate in tne 
 most central part of the City, and near to the principal Colleges, and places of interest to 
 visitors. Families and Gentlemen will find this Hotel replete with every comfort. Spacious 
 Coffee and Billiard Rooms. Private Sitting and Bed Rooms en suite. Ladies Coffee Room. 
 Guides always in attendance. Fashionable Open and Close Carriages. Job and Post Horses. 
 Good Stabling and Commodious Coach Houses.— JOHN F. ATT WOOD, Proprietor. 
 
 OXFORD. 
 
 RANDOLPH HOTEL. 
 
 THE ONLY MODERN HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS. 
 
 Every Comfort. Drawing Room. Close to the Colleges. 
 Prices Moderate. 
 
 Address THE MANAGER. 
 
 PAU. 
 
 PAU. 
 
 A WINTER RESORT, renowned for the numerous cures 
 which a residence has effected, particularly in cases of Affections of 
 the Chest, Heart, Larynx, and Throat. _ . 
 
 Pau possesses a mild and salubrious climate, lying in the midst ot 
 scenery of great grandeur ; on three days in each week Fox-hunting and 
 Polo Matches take place, and during the winter and spring there are 
 Horse Races twice every month. 
 
 In addition to these attractions, there are Good Clubs, a Theatre, Opera, 
 two Casinos, Balls, Pigeon Shooting Matches, Cricket Matches, Lawn 
 Tennis Courts, English Boarding and Day School, &c., &c. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL AND GOOD BOARDING HOUSES. 
 
 Villas, Houses, and Furnished Apartments to Let, 
 
 AT VARIOUS PRICES. 
 
 All particulars sent gratuitously, address Mr. FREDERIC DANIEL, 
 Directeur Gdrant de l’Union Syndicate, 7, Rue des Cordeliers , Pau. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 33 
 
 PARIS. 
 
 HIGH-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. 
 LIFT. 
 
 RUE DE RIVOLI, 
 
 D 
 
34 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 HOTEL "mIRABEAU, 
 
 8, Rue He la Paix, 8. 
 
 Patronised by the Royal Families of several Courts of Europe. 
 
 B EAUTIFULLY situated in the finest part of the City; the 
 prettiest Court-Yard in Paris. Restaurant a la carte, and Private 
 Dinners at fixed prices. Apartments of all sizes for Families and Gentle¬ 
 men. American and English Papers. Lift, &c. 
 
 PETIT (Uncle and Nephew), Proprietors. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL* BEAU SEJOUR. 
 
 LTRST CLASS. Recommended for its Comfort. Incomparable position 
 P for beauty of the Panorama. Apartments for Families, with view embracing the 
 Pyrenees. BOUB.DETTE, Proprietor. 
 
 PENZANCE. 
 
 MOUNT’S BAY HOTEL, 
 
 On tlie Esplanade. 
 
 This old-established Hotel commands a better view of Mount's Bay than any 
 other Hotel in Penzance, as all the windows in the front and at side have 
 
 An Uninterrupted and Unsurpassed View of all the Bay and 
 St. Michael’s Mount. 
 
 THE HOTEL IS HEATED WITH HOT WATER. HOT AND COLD BATHS. 
 
 Choice Wines, &c. Post Horses and Carriages. 
 
 TABLE D’HOTE. PORTER MEETS EACH TRAIN. CHARGES MODERATE. 
 
 Terms and View on application. 
 
 Mrs. LAVIN, Proprietress. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 35 
 
 /v PAU. 
 
 HOTEL BEAUMONT. 
 
 PENSION D’HIVER. 
 
 7, Rue Porte Neuve, Ancienne 
 Maison Planti. 
 
 FINE APARTMENTS, FULL SOUTH. 
 Extensive Garden. Croquet. 
 
 WINTERS ABROAD. 
 
 By R. H. Otter, M.A. Intended 
 for the use of Invalids. Crown 
 8vo., 7s. 6d. 
 
 John Murray, Albemarle Street. 
 
 PENZANCE. 
 
 QUEEN’S HOTEL. (On the Esplanade.') 
 
 Patronised by Her Majesty the Queen of Holland; 
 
 T HIS magnificent Hotel has a frontage of over 170 feet, all the Rooms of which overlook 
 the Sea. It commands a full and uninterrupted view of Mount’s Bay and St. Michael's 
 Mount. Apartments ere suite. Penzance stands unrivalled for the variety and quiet beauty 
 of its scenery, whilst the mildness of its climate is admirably adapted to invalids. Ladies’ 
 Coffee and Drawing Rooms. Billiard and Smoking Rooms. Hot and Cold Baths. Table 
 d’Hote. An Omnibus meets every Train. Posting in all its Branches. Yachts, &c. 
 
 A. H. HORA, Proprietor. 
 
 PISA. 
 
 ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL. 
 
 Clean. Great attention. Recommended. 
 Messrs. Maquay Hooker’s Banking Office 
 is in the Hotel. 
 
 RAPHAEL: His Life and 
 
 Works. By J. A. Crowe 
 and G. B. Cavalcaselle. 
 
 2 Vols. 8vo. 33s. 
 
 John Murray, Albemarle Street. 
 
 PLYMOUTH. 
 
 Only Hotel with Sea View. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL. 
 
 (ON THE HOE.) * 
 
 Facing Sound, Breakwater, &c. Mail Steamers anchor in sight. Public Rooms, and Sitting 
 Rooms, with Balconies. JAMES BOHN, Proprietor. 
 
 PRAGUE. 
 
 HOTEL VICTORIA. 
 
 First-Class Family Hotel. 
 
 English Landlady. O. & H. WELZER. 
 
 D 2 
 
36 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 PRAGUE. 
 
 HOTEL GOLDEN ANGEL. 
 
 First-Class Hotel. 
 
 F. STXCKEL, Proprietor. 
 
 QUIMPER (Finistere). 
 
 HOTEL DE L’EPEE. 
 
 C ENTRAL SITUATION on the QUAI DE L’ODET. Nice view 
 
 on the Promenade and Harbour. Good Family House. Carriages for Excursions. 
 Moderate Prices. Omnibus from the Hotel to all the Trains. 
 
 LE THETJFF, Proprietor. 
 
 Little Arthur’s History of France. 
 
 From the Earliest Times to the Fall of the 
 Second Empire. On the plan of “ Little 
 Arthur’s England." With Illustrations. 
 Fcap. 8vo., 2s. 6 d. 
 
 John Murray, Albemarle Street. 
 
 R H EIME ~ ~ 
 
 HOTEL DU LION DOR. 
 
 T HE most aristocratic of tlie town, and the only one actually 
 in front of the Cathedral. 
 
 English spoken. 
 
 R E G § RAILWAY. 
 
 The shortest, cheapest, and most beautiful way to 
 
 RIGI KULM, 
 
 for Tourists coming from all directions, is that 
 
 nd LUCERNE-VITZNAU 
 
 OR 
 
 rid FLUELEN -VITZNAU. 
 
 10 Trains Daily in both Directions. Return Tickets at 
 Reduced Rates. 
 
 KALTBAD-SCHEIDEGG RAILWAY. 
 
 An Excursion on this Railway, the highest and most 
 interesting of the Normal System in Europe, will greatly 
 satisfy every Tourist. 
 
 IT I !VI O. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL. 
 
 Best establishment in the Town. 
 Opposite the Cathedral. Under 
 English and American patronage. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 37 
 
 HOTEL AND PENSION RIGI-SCHEIDEGG. 
 
 TERMINUS Station of the Rigi Kaltbad-Scheidegg Railway. Excel- 
 
 lently suited for Tourists and Pensioners. Pension by a stay of not less than four 
 days, 7 francs to IS francs, Room included. Liberal treatment. View on 
 the Alps as beautiful as at Rigi-Kulm. _ Dr. R. STIERLIN-HAUSER. 
 
 ROME. ’ 
 
 GRAND HOTEL CONTINENTAL. 
 
 Same Management as of the 
 
 HOTElj SI’ALLEMiSLG-MB 
 
 (ALSO IN ROME,-) 
 
 and of the 
 
 IXOTHIj 30>IE! VfJ’MVXX, 
 
 AT MENTONE. 
 
 P. LTJGANI, Proprietor. 
 
 ~ ~ ' ROME. ~ ’ 
 
 G rand hotel de russie, et des iles britanniques. 
 
 This First-Class Establishment possesses the advantage of a beautiful GardeD, and is 
 situated near the English and American Churches; the principal Apartments face the 
 South, the entire Hotel being warmed by two caloriferes, and the whole arrangements and 
 moderate prices give universal satisfaction. Hydraulic Lilt. 
 
 MAZZERI, Proprietor. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 HOTEL MINERVA. 
 
 T HIS large Establishment, whose direction has lately been 
 taken up again by the Proprietor, M. Joseph Sauve, has been 
 considerably ameliorated both as regards the perfect service and the 
 most elaborate comfort. Large Apartments as well as small, and Rooms 
 for Parties with more modest tastes, both very carefully furnished, are to 
 be found here. 
 
 Its position is one of the most advantageous. It is situated in the 
 very centre of the Town, and close to the most remarkable Monuments, 
 the Post and Telegraph Offices, the House of Parliament, and the Senate. 
 
 The Ladies’ Drawing Room, the Smoking Room, and 
 Reading Rooms, where the principal Newspapers of every country 
 are to be found, and the Bathing Rooms, are always carefully warmed. 
 
 An HYDRA ULIC LIFT has been in use for the last three years. 
 
 TWO OMNIBUSES BELONGING TO THE HOTEL MEET 
 EVERY TRAIN. 
 
 THE WAITERS AND CHAMBERMAIDS SPEAK ALL THE 
 PRINCIPAL LANGUAGES. 
 
 VERY MODERATE TERMS. 
 
38 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 ROTTERDAM. 
 
 II. A. KRAMERS & SON, 
 
 IMPORTERS OP FOREIGN BOOKS. 
 
 Mr. Murray’s ■ Handbooks for Travellers,’ Bradshaw’s Monthly Railway Guides, 
 Baedeker’s ‘ Reisehandbiicher,’ and Hendschel’s ‘ Telegraph,’ always in Stock. Books 
 in all Languages imported every day, and a great variety of New Books kept in Store. 
 
 _ 26, GELD ERSCHE XADE, 26. 
 
 ~ ROUEN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE (On the Quay). 
 
 Mr. AUGUSTE MONNIER, Proprietor, Successor of Mr. LfiON SOUCHARD. 
 
 HIS HOTEL is distinguished for the salubrity of its situation, &c.; and the new Pro¬ 
 prietor has entirely refitted it, and added a very comfortable Smoking-Room. It Is 
 situated on the Quay facing the Bridges, and commands the finest view of the Seine, and 
 the magnificent Scenery encircling Rouen, that it is possible to imagine. Travellers will 
 find at this first-rate Establishment every comfort—airy Rooms, good Beds, Refreshments 
 and Wines of the best quality at moderate Prices. An excellent Table d’H6te at Six 
 o’clock. Restaurant a la carte. 
 
 Mr. Monnier speaks English, and has English Servants. 
 
 An excellent Descriptive Guide of Rouen can be had of Mr. Monnier. 
 
 ROYAT-LE8-BAIN8. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL. 
 
 L. SERVANT, Proprietor. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. ENGLISH SPOKEN. 
 
 Opened from the First of May till the end of 
 October. 
 
 SALZBURG. 
 
 HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 O PPOSITE the Station. First-Class Hotel, surrounded by a large 
 
 Park, and offering the best view on the Mountains. Pension : until the 15th of July 
 and after the 15th of September, from 4 florins upwards; from the 15th of July until the 
 15 th of September, from 5 florins upwards. 
 
 Moderate Charges. 
 
 (Rooms from 1 florin to 2 florins 50 kreuzers .) 
 
 G. JUNG, Proprietor. 
 SAUMUR. 
 
 HOTEL BUD AH. 
 
 The only one on the banks of 
 the Loire. 
 SPLENDID VIEW. 
 
 SAINT-SERVAN, near S.Malo. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L’UNION. 
 
 O VERLOOKING the sea. Family home, 
 entirely refurnished and transformed. 
 Drawing-rooms with Piano. Table d’Hote. 
 Omnibus at the Station. Moderate Prices. 
 English spoken. 
 
 CHEVALLIER, Proprietor. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 39 
 
 SAN REMO, ITALY. 
 
 WEST-END HOTEL. 
 
 A LARGE Building, expressly built for an Hotel, with all 
 the latest appliances to insure perfection in sanitary arrangements 
 —its Closets being on the most approved English principle. Beautifully 
 situated at the West End of the Town, a good distance from the Sea, 
 commanding an extensive View of the Bay. 
 
 LIFT. READING, BILLIARD, and SMOKING SALOONS. 
 LADIES’ DRAWING- ROOM. 
 
 ENGLISH AND FOREIGN NEWSPAPERS. 
 
 Excellent Cuisine and Choice Wines. 
 
 GREAT CLEANLINESS. 
 
 Omnibus of the Hotel meets all Trains. 
 
 Special arrangements for a lengthened sojourn. 
 
 ONLY HOUSE WITH LIFT. 
 
 All Languages spoken. 
 
 Proprietor, EOBERT WULFING. 
 
 SCHWALBACH. 
 
 A Best Iron and Steel Batlis. 
 
 HOTEL DUG DE NASSAU. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT. DRAWING, READING, AND 
 DINING ROOMS. TABLE D’HOTE. WELL MANAGED. 
 
 ADOLF JAHN, Proprietor. 
 
 Late of the ROSE HOTEL , Wiesbaden. 
 
 SENS (Yonne). 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE PARIS. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS. Situated near the Cathe¬ 
 dral and Promenades. Specially re¬ 
 commended to Families. English spoken. 
 Omnibus to Station. 
 
 LEMOINE-AUDY, Proprietor. 
 
 Bubbles from the Brunnen 
 of Nassau. 
 
 By Sir Francis Head. 
 Illustrations. Post 8vo., 7s. Gd. 
 John Murray, Albemarle Street. 
 
 SEVILLE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE MADRID. 
 
 T7ERY near its new annexe, entirely built expressly for Hotel. Plain 
 V full South. 200 Rooms and Saloons newly furnished. Beautifully situated. Superior 
 comfort, with large Patios and Gardens. Fires, Smoking and Reading Rooms. French 
 cooking. Interpreters, and Omnibus to and from all Stations. Charges moderate. 
 
 SPECIAL ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE WINTER. 
 
 Careful attendance under the personal direction of 
 
 The Manager, JULIO MEAZZA. 
 
 The HOTEL DE MADRID is also the Sleeping Car's Agency in Seville. 
 
40 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 ST. PETERSBURG. 
 
 HOTEL BE FRANCE, 
 
 GRANDE MORSKAIA, No. 6, 
 
 And RIVIERE DE LA MOlKA, No. 53. 
 
 E. RENAULT, Proprietor. 
 
 T HIS Magnificent Hotel is rebuilt on the same site as it 
 previously occupied, and is situated near the Imperial 
 Palace, the Minister’s Offices, the Exchange de la Neva, the 
 Park Alexander, the Admiralty, Police Office, and Newsky 
 Perspektive. It contains 200 Rooms, also Reception and 
 Reading Rooms, Baths, &c. 
 
 TABLE LTHOTE. 
 
 OMNIBUS MEETS TRAINS AT ALL RAILWAY STATIONS. 
 ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN. 
 
 FRENCH CUISINE. RENOWNED WINE CELLAR. 
 
 Mr. RENAULT, the new Proprietor of this Hotel (which 
 has been established over 20 years), will spare no pains to 
 give every satisfaction to his numerous Visitors. 
 
 SPA. 
 
 HOTEL DES PAYS-BAS. 
 
 Vve. I. DE COCK, Proprietress. 
 THIRST-CLASS. Exceptional situation at the top of the Town. Large 
 -L Garden opposite the Pouhon, close to the Casino and Baths. Omnibus at the Station. 
 Much recommended. A splendid Salon de Table d’Hote has been added to the Hotel. 
 
 SPA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 THIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Splendid Situation. Fine Apartments. Drawing and Reading 
 Room. Every Comfort. Spacious and handsome alterations have been lately made. 
 
 Omnibus of the Hotel at the Arrival of every Train. 
 
 _ 
 
 GRAND HOTEL SPEZIA. 
 
 MENETREY-HAUSER, of Mr. Hauser’s family of the Schweizerhof, 
 Lucerne, Bains du Gurnigel and Giessbach, Switzerland. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS HOUSE. In a Garden full South, with uninterrupted 
 
 view of both 6ides of the Gulf and the Carrara Mountains. On the centre of the 
 Bay, looking to the left on San Bartolomeo—to the right on Mount Parodi—on the centre, 
 the full sweep of the Mediterranean. English visitors may rely on all the comfort and 
 appliances of the best First-Class Hotels. This Establishment is frequented in Summer by 
 the Italian aristocracy, and in Winter, as a Winter health sejour, by the best English and 
 American Families, and by the Members of the Yacht Clubs. Arrangements for Families. 
 N.B.—Two minutes from the Station, just outside the Town, free 
 from stoppage of Omnibus at Custom Octrois. 
 
1883. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 41 
 
 T HIS Handsome Building is situated in the finest part of the City, 
 between Charles the Xllth’s Square and the National Museum, on 
 one of the Principal Quays, just at the confluence of the Lake Malar and 
 the Baltic. 
 
 The Royal Palace, one of the stateliest in Europe, faces the Hotel on 
 the opposite side of the Harbour. The Royal Opera and the Principal 
 Theatres are in close proximity. 
 
 The balconies and roof of the Hotel command the most extensive Views 
 of the City. 
 
 The House is replete with every modern improvement and convenience, 
 and no expense has been spared to render it one of the first and most com¬ 
 fortable Hotels on the Continent. 
 
 The Building contains Four Hundred Sleeping Apartments, besides 
 Dining Rooms, Sitting Rooms, Coffee and Reading Rooms, a Billiard Room, 
 a Telegraph and Post Office, Baths, Retiring Rooms, a Laundry, and other 
 accommodations. The several flats can be reached by Steam Lifts. 
 
 All European Languages spoken. Guides and Conveyances supplied to 
 all places of interest in the City and Neighbourhood. Terms will be found 
 to compare favourably with those of other first-class Hotels. 
 
 The Hotel Hydberg. 
 
 Gustaf Adolf’s Torg. 
 
 T HIS Old-established House has long been favourably known to Travel¬ 
 lers. It contains One Hundred and Fifty Sleeping Apartments. 
 
 The Proprietor of these Two First-Class Hotels is in a position to offer 
 every advantage to strangers visiting the Swedish Capital. 
 
 R. CADIER, 
 
 Proprietor of the Grand Hotel and the Hotel Rydberg. 
 
 STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN. 
 
42 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 STRASBOURG. 
 
 HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. 
 
 B EST-SITUATED FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Near the Station and 
 Cathedral. Close to the Post And Telegraph Offices. Baths. 
 Interpreter. Omnibus at the Station. CH. MATHIS. 
 
 - STUTTGART " 
 
 HOTEL MAEQUARDT 
 
 I S situated in the finest part of the Town, in the beautiful Place Royal, 
 adjoining the Railway Station, near the Post Office, the Theatre, the Royal Gardens, 
 opposite the Palace, and facing the Konigsbau. This Hotel will be found most comfortable 
 in every respect; the Apartments are elegantly furnished, and suitable for Families or 
 Single Gentlemen. Table d’Hflte at 1 and 5 o’clock. French and English Newspapers. 
 
 ___ GME. MARQUARDT, Proprietor, 
 
 THUN (Switzerland). 
 
 THE GRAND HOTEL. 
 
 A FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, one of the largest and most comfortable in 
 
 Switzerland. The only one with a Lift in the place, and especially adapted for a 
 long sejour. The Terrace of the Hotel, which has no rival in Switzerland, is worth a visit. 
 There is also an English Library. 
 
 Pension, during the whole Season, by staying Five Days, 
 from 8 franes, everything included. 
 
 CH. STAEHLE, 
 
 Also Proprietor of the Hotel du Paradis at Cannes. 
 
 TOURS. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL 
 
 DE L’UNIVERS. 
 
 ON THE BOULEVARD, NEAR THE 
 STATION. 
 
 European Heputation. 
 
 Highly recommended in all the French 
 and Foreign Guide Books. 
 
 EUGENE GUILLAUME, Proprietor. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 43 
 
 TOU LOUSE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DU MIDI. 
 
 Patronised by the Duke of Norfolk and Due d’Aumale. 
 BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED ON THE PLACE DU CAP IT OLE. 
 FIRST-GLASS ESTABLISHMENT, 
 
 Offering the same comforts as the largest Hotels in France. 
 
 Frequented by the highest Class of English and American Travellers. 
 English spoken. Restaurant and Table d’Hote. Rich Reading Room 
 and Conversation Salon. “ The Times ” Newspaper. 
 
 EUG. POURQUIER, Proprietor. 
 
 _____ 
 
 In the middle of the celebrated Railroad of the Black Forest. 
 
 BIERINGER’S BLACK FOREST HOTEL. 
 
 FIRST CLASS. Opened from the 1st of May, 1877. 
 
 C IT DATED on a charming Hill, at the most magnificent point of the 
 O Town, overlooking from all parts the highly celebrated Cascade. It is the finest and 
 most elegant Hotel at Triberg, fitted up with all the comforts of the present time. 
 
 Surrounded with a large terrace, a very handsome park and pleasant promenades; and 
 containing 80 very comfortable Bedrooms and Saloons, 26 Balconies, splendid Breakfast and 
 Dining Rooms, Smoking, Reading, and Conversation Rooms; it offers a very agreeable 
 Residence, at ten minutes’ distance from the Railway Station. Two elegant Stage Coaches 
 and a Landau meet all Trains. Every Sunday, English Divine Service. Reduced prices 
 during the Spring and Autumn. 
 
 TURIN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L EUROPE. 
 
 PLACE CHATEAU, 
 
 Opposite the King’s Palace. 
 
 THIRST-CLASS HOUSE, of old reputation, with all modern Comforts, 
 ■*- including Lift, Baths, Interpreters, English Newspapers, &c. 
 Omnibus at Station. 
 
 BORG-O and GAGrLIARDI, Proprietors. 
 
 VARESE. (Lombardy.) 
 
 GRAND HOTEL VARESE. 
 
 In direct communication by Rail with 
 MILAN, LAKE MAGGIOEE, COMO, and LUGANO. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, surrounded with an extensive GARDEN 
 and PARK, situated in the best and healthiest part of Lombardy, 1319 feet above the 
 Sea, commanding a most extensive view of the Alps, Monte Rosa Chains, and containing 
 
 SOO Rooms and Saloons. 
 
 PENSION. Baths on each floor. English Church. English Physician attached to the Hotel. 
 
 E. MARINI, Manager. 
 
44 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 HOTEL PENSION, 
 Dear Zarici 
 
 Mountain Railway 
 Station. 
 
 2,900 Feet above the 
 Level of the Sea. 
 
 H ALF-AN-HOUR’S delightful Trip by Rail, or One 
 Hour’s pleasant Walk from Zurich. Beautiful place of resort 
 for tourists, excursionists, invalids, persons requiring rest and bracing up, 
 and for Families intending to stop at Zurich and avoid the noise and heat 
 of the Town. Purest and most invigorating mountain air. Magnificent 
 Hotel; 150 Rooms newly fitted up, opening on Balconies, and commanding 
 a glorious view. Dairy: plentiful supply of new milk and whey. Park 
 of more than 100 acres. Lawn Tennis. English Church Service. Post 
 Office. Telegraph. Telephone. Very Moderate Prices and Pension. 
 
 A. LANDRY, Proprietor. 
 
 Also Proprietor of Hotel Bristol, Naples. 
 
 Higher up, five minutes’ walk from the Hotel, GRAND RESTAURANT 
 UTO KULM, on the crest of the hill ; for centuries the most popular 
 resort of parties and excursionists from far and near. 
 
 GRAND PANORAMIC VIEW EQUAL TO THE RIGI. 
 
 Excellent Cuisine. Choice Wines. First-rate Attendance. 
 
 ——■ venIce”! ~~~~ 
 
 GRAND HOTEL D’lTALIE, 
 
 BAUER GRUNWALD. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, near St. Mark’s Square, on the 
 Grand Canal, facing the Church of St. Maria della Salute. 
 Fresh and Salt Water Baths ready at all hours. 
 
 Celebrated for its “ Grand Restaurant ” and Vienna Beer. 
 
 JULES GRUNWALD, Proprietor. 
 VENICE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 QLD-ESTABLISHED FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated 
 
 in the best position on the Grand Canal, has just been repaired 
 and greatly improved. Visitors will find this Hotel very comfortable, 
 finely situated, and reasonable in its Charges. 
 
 MARSEILLE BRO s , Proprietors. 
 
 UTLIBERG 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 45 
 
 * VALENCIA (SPAIN). 
 
 HOTEL DE LA VILLE 1>E MADRID. 
 
 Kept by Mr. CARLOS CANTO VA d'HTOS. 
 
 T HIS First-rate Establishment, situated on the Villarroza Square, No. 6, has been entirely re-fumished 
 with every modem comfort and luxury, and now offers the most desirable residence to English 
 Travellers visiting this Fine Climate. Suites of Apartments for Families from the lowest prices to 50 fr. a 
 day. Excellent Cuisine and good Attendance. Foreign Newspapers. English, French, and Italian spoken. 
 Baths, &c. The Hotel is close by the Post Office, the Theatres, and the best Promenades. Board and 
 Lodging, with Light and Service included, 30 Reaux per day for Single Travellers ; but with Sitting Rooms 
 for Families, from 60, 80 to 100 Reals per day. 
 
 ' VERONA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE LONDRES 
 
 (.FORMERLY HOTEL TOUR DE LONDRES ) 
 
 AND DEPENDANCE HOTEL ROYAL DEUX TOURS. The only first-class Hotel in 
 LA Verona, in the centre of the Town. Great comfort and moderate charges. English Church Service 
 in J the Hotel. All Languages spoken. Omnibus at the Stations. Highly recommended. 
 
 A. CERESA, proprietor. G. CAVESTRI, Manager. 
 _____ 
 
 p RAND HOTEL DES AMBASSADEURS, Situated in the Park.— 
 
 \JT This magnificent Hotel is now the first in the town. It is managed in the same style as the largest 
 and best hotels on the Continent. By its exceptional situation, the house presents three fronts, from which 
 the most beautiful views are to be had ; and from its balconies is heard twice a day the excellent Band 
 of the Casino. The management of its large and small apartments is very comfortable. Every room has a 
 Dressing Room. Special wire going from all apartments to the private servants’ rooms. Beautifnl 
 Readin”, Drawing, and Smoking Rooms. Billiard Tables. English spoken. Omnibus of the Hotel at all 
 Trains.° The Hotel is open from the 15th of April. Post and Telegraph Offices adjoining the Hotel. 
 
 __ ROTJBEATJ-PLACE, Proprietor. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL' DTJ PARC. 
 
 THE LARGEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE IN VICHY. 
 
 i FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in the Park, facing the Baths, 
 /x Springs, and Casino. 
 
 PRIVATE pMUotT fORJA Ml LIES. 
 
 GERMOT, Proprietor. 
 
46 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL, 
 
 KARNTHNERRING No. 9, 
 
 S ITUATED on the most elegant and frequented Square of 
 the City. Three hundred Rooms, from 1 florin upwards. 
 Apartments, from 6 florins upwards. Beautiful Dining 
 Saloon, Restaurant Saloons, Conversation, Smoking, and 
 Reading Rooms. 
 
 BATHS & TELEGRAPH OFFICE IN THE HOUSE. 
 
 Lifts for Communication with each Storey. 
 
 DINNERS & SUPPERS A LA CARTE. TABLE D'HOTE. 
 
 OMNIBUSES AT THE RAILWAY STATIONS. 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 J. & L. LOBMEYR, 
 
 <Skss lltaiurfcTtturcrs, 
 
 Appointed Purveyors to the Imperial Court of Austria, 
 
 No. 13, KARNTHNERSTRASSE. 
 
 The most extensive Establishment for BOHEMIAN CRYSTAL, 
 FANCY GLASS, and Chandeliers. 
 
 Every variety of Glass for Household use, Ornament, and in Art 
 Workmanship. Specialities in Engraved Glass and Looking-Glasses. 
 Chandeliers, Candelabras, in Crystal and Bronze. 
 
 LARGE SHOW-ROOMS UPSTAIRS. 
 
 The prices are fixed, and are very moderate.—English is spoken. 
 
 Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M'Cbacken, No. 38, 
 Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London, wUl transmit all orders with 
 the greatest care and attention. 
 
1885. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 47 
 
 V E V E Y. 
 
 HOTEL MONNET & TRQIS C0UR0NNE8. 
 
 F. SCHOTT. 
 
 VICHY. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE LA PAIX. 
 
 SITUATED IN TEE PARK, BETWEEN THE BATHS AND 
 THE CASINO. 
 
 First-Class Hotel and Hoase. 
 
 VILLA EUGENIE. 
 
 Apartments for Families. All Languages spoken. 
 Omnibus at all Trains. 
 
 LAURENT, Proprietor. 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 HOTEL OSTERREICHISCH: HOF. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS and beautifully situated 
 Hotel, in the Centre of the Town. 
 140 Bedrooms and Salons (from 1 fl. up¬ 
 wards), Bath, Telephone, Telegraph Station, 
 Restaurant. English spoken. j_ HANISCH. 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 BOARDING HOUSE. 
 
 4 & 5, MAXIMILIAN PLATZ. 
 
 Ground Floor. 
 
 TERMS MODERATE. 
 
 WIESBADEN. 
 
 HOTEL ET BAINS DE NASSAU. 
 
 (nassauer bof) 
 
 Messrs. GOETZ BROTHERS, Proprietors, 
 EIRST-CLASS HOTEL of old and good reputation, opposite the 
 
 L Curbaus, Colonnades, Parks, and next the Theatre. Splendid Dining and Reading 
 Rooms. Table d’Hote at One and Five o’clock. Mineral Baths of Own Hot Spring. 
 
 H 6 T E L V ILL A NA S S A U. 
 
 Annexe of the Hotfx dr Nassau. Proprietors also Messrs. Goetz Brothers. 
 CINEST FAMILY HOTEL in Town, with all Modern Comfort, in 
 beautiful situation next the Hot Springs, Theatre, Curhaus, Colonnades, etc. 
 
 Wiesbaden! 
 
 TAURUS HOTEL. 
 
 T HIS well-known and highly recommended First-Class Hotel, the 
 nearest to the Three Railway Stations, the Post, and the Telegraph, has been entirely 
 refitted and refurnished. Very Comfortable Apartments and Single Rooms. Garden. 
 Table d’Hote. Dinners, Suppers, &c., at any time. Excellent Cuisine, Choice Wines, 
 Foreign Papers. Moderate Charges. The Omnibus to Schwalbach starts from the Hotel. 
 Pension the whole year. J. SCHMITZ-VOLKMUTH, Proprietor. 
 
 WIESBADEN. 
 
 ROSE HOTEL AND BAT FT HOUSE. 
 OPLENDID First-Class Establishment close to the Cursaal, opposite the 
 O Trinkhalle, and adjoining the Promenade. No other Hotel except this is surrounded 
 by a Garden of its own, or supplied with Baths direct from the hot springs (Kochbrimnen). 
 Quiet and airy situation, with English comfort and reasonable Charges. Drawing, Reading, 
 and Smoking Rooms, and Billiard Room, containing a full-sized Billiard Table. Table 
 d’Hflte at One and Five o’clock. Lawn Tennis Grounds. v 
 
 HAEFFNEE FRERES, Proprietors. 
 
48 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 WILDBAD. 
 
 HOTEL KLUMPP, 
 
 Formerly HOTEL DE L’OTTRS. 
 
 Mr. W. KLUMPP, Proprietor. 
 
 T HIS First-Class Hotel, containing 45 Saloons and 235 Bed Rooms, with a separate 
 Breakfast and new Reading and Conversation Rooms, as well as a Smoking 
 Saloon, and a very extensive and elegant Dining Room ; an artificial Garden over the 
 river - is beautifully situated in connection with the old and new Bath Buildings 
 and Conversation House, and in the immediate vicinity of the Promenade and the 
 New Colonnade. It is celebrated for its elegant and comfortable apartments, good 
 Cuisine and Cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as an excellent Hotel. 
 Table d’Hote at One and Five o’clock. Breakfasts and Suppers a la carte. 
 Exchange Office. Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for 
 the payment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. Omnibuses of the Hotel to 
 and from each Train. Elevators to every floor. Fine Private Carnages when 
 requested. Warm and Cold Baths in the Hotel. 
 
 EXCELLENT ACCOMMODATION. 
 
 WURZBURG. 
 
 KEONPRINZ HOTEL. 
 
 H ONOURED by the presence of His Imperial Majesty the Emperor 
 of Germany, on the occasion of his recent visit to this Town. This_ First-Class H°te 
 is particularly recommended for its Large and Airy Apartments, having the finest situation 
 near the Station, facing the Palace, and adjoining a fine Garden. Reading Rooms. Cold and 
 Warm Baths, &c. Moderate Charges. j ^sjyj^ON. 
 
 ZARAGOZA, SPAIN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 Excellent Cooking and 
 Moderate Charges. 
 VIUDA DE ZOPPETTI Y HIJOS, 
 
 Proprietors 
 
 ZARAGOZA. 
 
 Murray’s Handbook for Spain. 
 
 MAPS AND PLATTS. 
 
 Post 8vo. 20s. 
 
 John Murray, Albemarle Street 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK DICTIONARY 
 ENGLISH, FRENCH, GERMAN AND ITALIAN. 
 
 For the use of Travellers and Students. 
 
 By George F. Chambers. 16mo., 6s. bound. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK OF TRAVEL TALK. 
 
 ENGLISH, FBENCH, GEBMAN AND ITALIAN. 
 
 16mo., 3s. Gd. 
 
 John Murray, Albemarle Street. 
 
1835. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 49 
 
 HOW TO LEARN MODERN LANGUAGES. 
 
 The success attending Dr. Wm. Smith’s “ Principia Latina ” and “ Initia 
 Gr-ECA,” which practical teachers have found the easiest hooks for learning 
 Latin and Greek, has led to the application of the same method to the French, 
 German, and Italian Languages. There is an obvious advantage in a beginner 
 learning a new language on the plan with which he is already familiar. 
 These books combine the advantage of the older and more modern methods of 
 instruction. 
 
 FRENCH COURSE. 
 
 Edited by Dr. Wm. Smith. 
 
 FRENCH PRINCXPJA, Part X. A First French Course, 
 
 containing Grammar, Delectus, Exercises, Vocabularies, &c. 12mo. 3s. 6 d. 
 
 APPENDIX TO FRENCH PRINCXPIA, Part I. 
 
 Containing Additional Exercises, with. Examination Papers. 12mo. 2s. 6ci. 
 
 FRENCH PRINCIPIA, Part IX. A Reading Book, 
 
 containing Fables, Stories, and Anecdotes, Natural History, and Scenes from the 
 History of France. With Grammatical Questions, Notes, and Copious Etymological 
 Dictionary. 12mo. 4s. Gd. 
 
 FRENCH PRXNCXPXA, Part XII. French Prose Com¬ 
 position. Containing a systematic Course of Exercises on the Syntax, with the 
 principal Rules of Syntax. 12mo. 
 
 THE STUDENT’S FRENCH GRAMMAR: a Prac¬ 
 tical and Historical Grammar of the French Language. By C. Heeon-Wall. With 
 Introduction by M. LiTTRf:. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 A SMALLER GRAMMAR OF THE FRENCH 
 
 LANGUAGE. Abridged from the above. 12mo. 3s. 6<Z. 
 
 GERMAN COURSE. 
 
 Edited by Dr. Wm. Smith. 
 
 GERMAN PRINCXPIA, Part I. A First German 
 
 Course, containing a Grammar, Delectus, Exercises, Vocabularies, &c. 12mo. 3s. Gd. 
 
 GERMAN PRINCXPIA, Part IX. A Reading Book, 
 
 containing Fables, Stories, and Anecdotes, Natural History, and Scenes from the 
 History of Germany. With Grammatical Questions, Notes, and Dictionary. 
 12mo. 3s. 6 d. 
 
 PRACTICAL GERMAN GRAMMAR. With a Sketch 
 
 of the Historical Development of the Language and its Principal Dialects. Post 
 8vo. 3s. Gd. 
 
 ITALIAN COURSE. 
 
 Edited by Dr. Wm. Smith. 
 
 ITALIAN PRINCXPIA, Part I. A First Italian Course, 
 
 containing a Grammar, Delectus, Exercise Book, with Vocabularies, and Materials 
 for Italian Conversation. By Signor Ricci. I2mo. 3s. Gd. 
 
 ITALIAN PRINCIPIA, Part II. A First Italian 
 
 Reading Book, containing Fables, Anecdotes, History, and Passages from the best 
 Italian Authors, with Grammatical Questions, Notes, and a copious Etymological 
 Dictionary. 12mo. 3s. Gd. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
50 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 1885. 
 
 ESTABLISHED 1833. 
 
 THE ORIGINAL GUIDE & TRAVELLERS’ DEPOT, 
 
 AND 
 
 Hassnori unb Couriers’Stgrucrj, 
 
 LEE & CARTER, 
 
 440, WEST STRAND, LONDON 
 
 (Nearly opposite the Charing Cross Hotel). 
 
 STIFF OR LIJIl*. 
 
 OF ALL FATTKRNS. 
 
 BAGS 
 
 OF ALL KINDS. 
 
 Intending Tourists are respectfully invited to visit this Establishment 
 before making purchases for their journey. 
 
 AN EXTENSIVE STOCK OF TRAVELLERS’ REQUISITES TO SELECT FROM. 
 LISTS GRATIS. 
 
 COURIERS, DRAGOMEN, 
 
 TRAVELLING SERVANTS 
 
 of good character and experience, speaking European 
 and Eastern Languages, can be engaged at the 
 above Establishment. 
 
 Also Passports and Visas obtained. Passports 
 mounted on Linen and put in Cases, with Name 
 printed outside. 
 
 440, S T Jl> 
 
MURRAY'S ENGLISH HANDBOOKS 
 
 HANDBOOK—LONDON AS IT IS. Maps and Plans. I6mo. 3*. 6 d. 
 
 HANDBOOK—ENVIRONS OF LONDON—Including 20 miles round tlie 
 
 Metropolis. Two Volumes. Post Svo. 21s. 
 
 HANDBOOK ENGLAND AND WALES. Arranged alphabetically. Map. 
 
 One Volume. Post Svo. 10s. 
 
 HANDBOOK — EASTERN COUNTIES — Chelmsford, Harwich, Col¬ 
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 [In Preparation.] 
 
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 ENGLISH CATHEDRALS. 
 
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 May, 1885.