: ! m GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. GIGANTIC RUINS AT TITICACA. GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA; OR, Cljr Hanti of tUr pampas;. MAE.Y HIELD, AUTHOR OF “LIVING PAGES FROM MANY AGES,” ETC. Cassell, Fetter, Galpin & Co, LONDON ; PARIS $• NEW YORK. [all RIGHTS RESERVED.] 1882. THE WORLD IN PICTURES. A Series of Volumes Uniform with this l Vorh, Price 2 s . 6 d . each . The Eastern Wonderland (Japan). Peeps into China. Glimpses of South America. Round Africa. The Land of Temples (India). The Isles of the Pacific. ALL ILLUSTRATED THROUGHOUT. Cassell , Pcttcr , Galpin & Co ., Ludgate Hill , Loudon CHAP. I. Discovery of America . * II. Peru .... III. More about Peru IV. The Capital of Peru V. Chili and the Silver Mines . YI. Bolivia and the Slave Traee VII. Bolivia ( continued ) VIII. Brazil and its Forests IX. More about Brazil X. South American Indians . XI. Wild Animals in Brazil XII. Guiana XIII. Venezuela XIV. From Colombia to Uruguay XV. La Plata and Patagonia XVI. Conclusion . PACE . 9 20 . 34 42 . 50 61 . 74 89 . 107 120 . 128 . 140 . 165 175 . 194 . 219 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. — ♦ CHAPTER I. THE DISCOVERY OF AMERICA. _ OST o^irls and bo vs have heard of Christopher Columbus, the great navigator, who in the year 1492 set sail with three small vessels, and not more than 120 men, on his great voyage of discovery. We know very little indeed about his early life. His father, it appears, was a wool-comber, who lived at Genoa, in Italy; so that of this much we are sure, Christopher was not the son of a rich man, but lived in a humble home with his father and mother, and perhaps many times had to sit down, with his brothers and sisters, to a barely furnished dinner-table. 10 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. Still, in spite of their poverty, the good people con- trived to send their son to a school, where the little fellow made the best use of his time, and the lessons he enjoyed more than any others were those in astronomy and geography. Under blue Italian skies, among lovely scented flowers, some boys might have wished for nothing better than to linger on there all their lives. Not so with our hero. The little knowledge he had gained made him thirst for more. He studied his maps, and thought how much he should like to see for himself some of the different countries traced on them, and before very long he had persuaded his father to let him go to sea. After one of his voyages down the Mediterranean, when his boyhood had passed, he settled for a short time at Lisbon, and there married an Italian girl, who, like himself, for some reason or other had left her native land. After this, by way of earning money, Columbus spent his time in making maps and charts, and while thus occupied the longing he had always had to visit unknown lands became stronger than ever. Mustering up all his courage, he went to the King of Portugal and asked for his help in the shape of money and ships to go out on a voyage of discovery ; but instead of the king helping him, as he might well have done, he not only refused to do so, but also privately sent out a vessel to examine the route that Columbus had said Re meant to take. In a very short time this same vessel returned, the sailors declaring they were only too thankful to be at home again after being exposed to so much danger, and that the Italian stranger was mad to imagine that he could go further than other ships had gone before. fHE DISCOVERY OF AMERICA. H Disappointed and grieved, poor Columbus turned his steps to his native land, taking with him his little son Diego, whose mother had died. But even there he met with no encouragement ; his friends were all busy with 12 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. their own affairs. It seemed as if they listened with only one ear to what Columbus had to say about his search for unknown regions, and much less were they inclined to give him any of their money to help him in his wild scheme. Still keeping a brave heart — for Columbus was not going to be turned from his purpose just because he could not get what he wanted all at once — he left Italy, and found his way to Spain. One day, while wandering about there with his motherless boy, 'both of them weary and hungry, he stopped at a convent to beg a mouthful of bread. A kind-hearted priest happening to pass at the time, looked at the thin white face of the hungry boy, and then at the intelligent but sad face of the father. Kindly the good man fed the wanderers, and as they ate the food he gave them, Columbus told him what he wished to do. “ This is a clever man,” thought the priest, “ and I will do all I can to help him; ” and so he did, for he went straight to the king and queen, and told them what he himself had heard, and asked them to help the foreign sailor. The king promised to do so ; but for all that, Columbus had to wait seven more years before he really set out. It was on the 3rd of August, 1492, that he started from the South of Spain, and there on the wide ocean the brave man forgot all the troubles he had gone through in his delight at having at last gained the object of his desire. What difficulties he had to contend with, however, we shall never know. For one thing, his men grumbled and found fault with him for exposing them to so much danger; indeed, if he had listened to their entreaties, he would never have reached America, but would have turned back about midway. THE DISCOVERY OF AMERICA. 13 Instead of that, Columbus went on as steadily as he could, considering* he had to contend with the trade- winds — which, as sailors now know well, are sometimes CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS. so unmerciful to vessels in the broad Atlantic — until at last he sighted land. The piece of land he saw was one of those islands lying* between North and South America, one of* the Bahama islands; and as soon as he stepped on the shore he called the island San Salvador. It was not long* before he discovered Cuba and Hayti, and others of the West Indies, and then he embarked again for Spain, to convey the joyful tidings to the C0LUAIBU3 RECEIVED BY FERDINAND AND ISABELLA THE DISCOVERY OF AMERICA. 15 king*. On arriving, he was received with every mark of respect by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, and treated like a hero ; besides which, after six months, he was sent out again with seventeen ships instead of only three, and with 1,500 men, this time discovering more of the islands. Columbus made four voyages in all. It was during the third of these that he landed on the shore of South America at a place called Paria. By some means or other after this third voyage evil reports had' reached the ears of the king, who gave orders that the brave sailor should be brought home in chains. Cruel as it appears to us now, that such an indignity should be shown to so brave and true a man as Colum- bus, we should be still more sorry if he had deserved the treatment ; but fortunately he was innocent, for his brave heroic spirit helped him not only to face the winds and storms of the ocean, but also to resist evil. He tried in vain to convince Ferdinand of his in- nocence, but being unable to do so, he comforted himself by thinking that after all some of his friends still clung to him; and, instead of giving way to despair, he set out with a clear conscience on a fourth expedition. This time he meant to find what he felt sure existed, namely, a passage connecting the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans, but as we all know there is no such passage, it is not very astonishing that he did not succeed in discover- ing it. By this time he was getting old, and instead of the sailors who went with him doing all they could to help him, they spent their time in searching for gold to enrich themselves; so poor Columbus turned his face 10 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. back again. When he reached Spain, Queen Isabella was dead, and King Ferdinand, who ought to have paid great honour to the old navigator, treated him very coldly; indeed, he took so little notice of him, that at last the brave man, who had spent most of his life in facing the many hardships of a sailor for the benefit of future generations, was left to die in poverty. Columbus might, if he had wished to do so, have gathered together for himself gold and riches, but he did not care for a life of ease. Fine clothes, fine houses, luxury and idleness, had no attraction for him. He had resolved to discover this new far-off land, which was so much talked about just at that time, and he could not rest until he had done so. Like Moses of old, he had little more than a peep into the land of promise, for he only went as far as the borders of the mighty continent; other people who lived after him have availed themselves of its wealth and have admired its beauty, and even the name by which it is known was given to it in honour of one who made its acquaintance later than Columbus. It seems that when people on all sides were talking about Columbus and his wonderful travels, many young men and boys felt their blood tingle with a longing to set out on a similar errand, and among the rest was a young Italian called Amerigo Vespucci. He therefore set off too, and as he was very clever and brave, he also discovered many places that before had been unknown, and somehow or other the new world was named after him. Considering that Colum- bus was first in the field, it seems rather hard that a later discoverer's name should be immortalised, and that the name of the real discoverer should be completely TIIE DISCOVERY OF AMERICA 17 ignored. Still, as with all of us living now the name of Christopher Columbus will always be linked in our memory with the discovery of America, it is not very COLUMBUS PLACED UNDER ARREST. likely that, as the years pass on (even when America is no longer regarded as'a new world), he will evei be foi- gotten . B IS GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. In the city of Lima, which is the capital of Peru, a beautiful monument of Columbus now stands. It is a marble group, in which America is represented as a crouching Indian girl, receiving a cross, the type of Christianity, from the great discoverer, who is dressed in a loose robe. While with one hand she takes the cross, with the other she drops an arrow, the symbol of savage life, at her feet. There is no doubt that other Europeans had visited America even before the time of Columbus, but its history — as far as our connection with it is concerned — may safely date from the day that he set foot in the land. After his death, adventurers from all parts, hearing of the wealth that lay waiting only to be picked up in this new country, sailed away with the idea of securing as large a share of it as possible before it was too late. Some of these wanderers were very successful, and went home again laden with gold, the sight of which filled many a heart with envy. Others settled down and made homes for themselves in the strange land, among the red men, who were the real inhabitants, and thus a great change has come over America within the last two or three hundred years. It is not now the abode of red men only, but of people from all parts of the earth, and therefore it is that we have gained a great deal of information respect- ing it. What we now propose to do is to take a peep, or rather as - have just heard, fi/pL the town chosen by the great Spaniard Pizarro to be the capital of his newly-found empire was Lima. The ancient capital was Cuzco ; hut Pizarro, wishing to found quite a new kingdom, to take the place of that of the old Incas, said that Lima, or, as its name signifies, the City of the Kings, should henceforth be the capital of his conquered dominions. That he should have fixed upon so unhealthy a spot is to be deplored. It is said that when the last of the Incas heard where Pizarro had decided to found his Spanish city, he was greatly rejoiced, exclaiming that soon very few of the residents would remain alive ; and it is also said that, long before the arrival of the Spaniards, Lima was a spot fixed upon for the banishment of criminals, who, owing to the miserable climate, very soon died. VIEW OF LIMA, FROM THE RIVER RIMAC. 44 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. During what is called the winter season, the fog and damp are so prevalent that for many days and weeks the sun is invisible, and although it may be true that it “ never rains in Lima/’ the mist is often so dense that travellers need to carry umbrellas to protect them- selves from it. Not far from this old city are the ruins of a temple which must have been almost as gorgeous as that at Pachacamac. Within it stood an idol, which, so it was said, really spoke ; therefore it was called liimac, a word meaning a a thing that talks,” and it is really from this idol that the city takes its name, the letter R, being changed into L. The priests, of course, knew well enough that the idol did not really speak, although they tried to deceive the people by saying that it did so. The fact was that one of the priests used to conceal himself in the hollow image; consequently it was very easy to deceive the poor people. Twelve or fourteen miles from Lima are the remains of another large city called Cajamarquilla, the history of which no one knows, but which consists of groups of buildings with streets passing between them, and where men, and women, and children long ago were as busy carrying on their daily work as any of us now are. The apartments in some of the buildings are con- nected by narrow, dark passages, and there are curiously- shaped holes dug far down in the hard ground, meant possibly to serve as store-rooms for food. The place may have been destroyed at some time by an earthquake, for Lima has been called the City of Earthquakes. Five or six times it has been almost de- stroyed by them, and very often, even now, the people. THE CAPITAL OP PERU. 45 as they lie in bed at night, are awakened by a rumbling noise underground, which makes them rather fearful that one of the dreaded visitors is at hand. They are so frightened sometimes that even at mid- night the people rush out of their houses calling “ Mercy ! ” and the priests invite them to assemble for prayers, by causing the bells to toll. It is not improbable, therefore, that the poor crea- tures who lived in Cajamarcjuilla had to suffer one of these dreadful shocks ; but as they have left no record of themselves in any way, we can only guess what their real fate has been. After all the changes it has undergone, Lima still is a rich, gay city, containing within its walls the bones of its great founder Pizarro. As a proof of its wealth, one of its viceroys once rode through the streets, over a pavement of solid ingots of silver, on a horse whose mane was strung with pearls, and whose shoes were of gold — so much do the inhabitants think of wealth and show. Owing to the absence of rain in the region where Lima stands, and to the fact that an earthquake may be expected at any time, most of the houses are built of very light materials, because a strong building of brick or stone would be no protection during an earthquake. Many of them are little more than large cages of canes plastered over with mud, and then made to imi- tate stone. The roofs are llat, because the absence of rain renders a sloping roof unnecessary; and even churches and large buildings that look strong and massive have really no foundation stronger than a number of poles and canes tied together. Under a brisk shower, such as wc often experience 1G GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. on a summer afternoon, the whole city would melt away, leaving only a mass of broken canes in a great mud puddle. Famous as Peru has always been for gold, and silver, and diamonds, it has now another source of wealth of which some of us have not often heard. DIGGING THE GUANO. This additional wealth is what- is called guano — a kind of manure, made by hundreds and thousands of sea-birds. As we have heard, on the coast of Peru there is scarcely any rain, so that instead of all the matter left by sea-birds being washed away, it remains on the spot where it has been dropped; and there, as THE CAPITAL OF PERU, 47 LOADING THE WAGGON. reason it is sought for by farmers and agriculturists in all parts of the world. The old Incas, it seems, knew its value, for the very best guano has long come from the Chincha Islands, about twelve miles from the coast of Peru, and it is said that in olden times the birds of those islands were protected with such care that it was it lies year after year, it gets mixed up with eggs of birds, dead birds, pieces of fish, and other things. Hundreds of natives are employed collecting this substance, which, when mixed with common soil, helps to make seed grow and plants thrive ; and for this 48 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. not lawful to land on the islands on pain of death, lest the birds should be frightened or driven from the coast; neither was it lawful to kill them at any time, either on the islands or elsewhere, also on pain of death. Each island was, by order of the Incas, set apart for a particular province, and the guano was fairly di- vided, each village receiving a due portion. At one time, all the guano sent to England was obtained from Peru, but now it is sent to us from other countries. At that time the people who sought for it were convicts, who had been sent out of their own coun- try for having committed some crime. The guano, often fifty or sixty feet thick, was shovelled out by these poor creatures, who then lifted if into an immense iron trough. This trough was then emptied into a car, which, when full, was drawn along a tramway to the edge of the cliff, and there emptied, ready to be put into some vessel that was loading. While the guano is being dug and loaded, a kind of salty dust flies from it, which is so strong that even the powerful negroes are obliged to put iron masks over their black faces, or they would be nearly suffo- cated ; and the overseers, who superintend the work- men, live in houses made of iron. The poor labourers have to be satisfied with their little huts made of cane. Strange to say, the guano districts, whence manure is sent to all parts of the world, are so destitute of moisture that scarcely any vegetation will thrive on their soil. DISCHARGING A GUANO WAGGON. CHAPTER Y. CHILI AND THE SILVER MINES. II I LI is a long, nar- row province, lying to the south of Peru, bounded on one side by lofty mountains, and on the other by the broad Pacific Ocean. Its name, which means snow, is supposed to have been taken from the old Peruvian language ; and certainly, to see some of the lofty summits of the Andes, crowned as they are with snow, the name appears to have been wisely chosen. Who the first inhabitants were no one is able to tell us ; like Peru, also, it has at different times been often invaded by Spanish soldiers, and after Pizarro had conquered Peru, his companion, Almagro, travelled southwards, and took possession of Chili. The chief town is Santiago, a beautiful city with a broad road running through it from cast to west. D 2 VIEW OF SANTIAGO, 52 GLIMPSES OP SOUTH AMERICA. and in which stand many handsome houses and build- ings of all kinds. Both in Chili and in Peru the people have many times been visited by earthquakes that have swallowed up a number of them alive, with their houses and cattle, but not very long ago, in the year 1863, a misfortune quite as sad as an earthquake came upon the inhabi- tants of Santiago. A very important festival was being held at the cathedral, which was decorated mag- nificently for the occasion, and was filled with people who had assembled within the walls to worship. By some means or other, part of the gay ornaments took fire, when, at the sight of the flames, the frightened people rushed to the different entrances, crushing and mangling each other by trying to make their exit. The number who perished at the time is said to have been between two and three thousand, chiefly women. The poor creatures were either burnt to death, suffocated by smoke, or killed by the falling stones and rafters. On the spot, in place of the cathedral, now stands a monument in memory of the awful event. Before the Spaniards made their appearance at all in the country, the old Incas from Peru had crossed that great desert of Atacama, which, though so rich in silver mines, is a terribly dreary place, and had taken possession of as much territory as they could seize. Owing to the absence of rain, the soil of this desert is so dry and arid that no plants or vegetables will grow in it. Fortunately a railway runs across its dreary waste now ; consequently, travellers who wish to cross it, need not long be exposed to the misery that a long sojourn would necessitate. When Almagro arrived in Chili, he found a large CHILI AND THE SILVER MINES. 53 portion of it peopled by a tribe of Indians called Araucanians ; and of all the red men in South America, these Araucanians seem to have been most determined not to let the Spaniards conquer them. They were a wild, warlike people, who loved horse- riding; and very clever riders they all were, both men and women. Their houses were merely wicker-work frames plastered with clay, and although they seemed happy enough — men, women, children, dogs, and horses, all huddled up together at night — Almagro and his friends no doubt thought it a miserable state of things. It was lawful amongst them for a mail to have as many wives as he liked, but as the rule also was that every day each wife should give to her husband a dish of food prepared at her own fire, the number of fires in each habitation was not unfrequently considerable. A polite way of asking a man what number of wives he was blessed with was to say, “ How many fires have you ? ” For their religious observances they required neither temple nor priest ; all they did by way of worship was to sacrifice some animal under a particular tree in the forest which they considered sacred. Like most ignorant people, they were highly super- stitious. They thought, for instance, that when one of their tribe died from any other cause than old age, some evil spirit had been at work; and before par- taking of food they always sprinkle on the ground a small quantity of whatever they had spread before them by way of gaining favour with the evil spirits. A few of these bold, wild men are still left in Chili, and may be seen roaming happily about on the banks of rivers or in deserted villages. Their idea of fveedojn 54 - glimpses OF SOUTH AMERICA. is to bo allowed to wander at will in any direction they like, and they have the notion that people who dwell in walled cities are slaves. When they fought with the Spaniards they were sadly puzzled to find out how gunpowder was made, for they saw, of course, how useful it was to their RAILWAY ACROSS THE DESERT OF ATACAMA. enemies in battle ; but what they actually did to discover the secret you could never imagine. They noticed that among the Spaniards were some negro soldiers, whose colour, they thought, resembled gunpowder. Consequently the first negro that was taken prisoner by them they burnt alive, hoping that they would obtain the precious gunpowder from his ashes. CHILI AND THE SILVER MINES 55 The land, like Peru, is rich in minerals, but, strange to say, many of these old Indians preferred for their own use either silver or copper rather than gold. The working of these silver mines was terribly hard for the poor Indians a long time ago. A law was ARAUCANIAN INDIAN. instituted amongst them, called The Mita , by which they were made to extract the precious metal, so that their masters might become' rich, even though many of the poor miners lost their lives while doing so. According to this law every Indian, from the age of 56 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. eighteen to fifty, was forced to labour in the mines for the space of six months, when, if still living*, he would then be liberated for a few years. Consequently many a poor Indian has had to leave his family, give up his trade, and go to a mine perhaps hundreds of miles away, because most of the silver mines are found at an immense height up the mountains, very near the limit of perpetual snow. Therefore, in order to explore them, men and provisions have to be brought from a great distance. Those mines which are lower down on a level with towns or villages are, of course, more easily explored. The richest silver mine in Peru is at Potosi, but many of the Indians are made to work so hard, digging out these precious metals, that they have no doubt often wished the foreigners had never discovered them. Indeed, some of the American Indians are sly enough to keep the knowledge to themselves as to where certain mines are to be found, so that when they want any for their own use they can go alone secretly and take as much as they want. There was once a wicked old monk in Peru who lost a large sum of money at the gaming-table, and so troubled was he in consequence that a great friend of his, an Indian, by way of consoling him, went and obtained for him a bag full of silver. The selfish monk, instead of being satisfied, asked for more, then another bag, and another, and actually at last said he should like to see the mine where all the silver came from. He was so eager in his request that his friend consented to gratify his curiosity; so one night the Indian, with two companions, went to the monk's house. First of all they blindfolded him ; then, instead of letting him walk, they carried him in turns on their CHILI AND THE SILVER, MINES. 57 shoulders — how far the monk did not know — until at last he was put down on the ground and the ban- dage taken from his eyes. To his great delight he then found himself in a real mine, surrounded by large pieces of solid silver, of which he was told he might take as much as he liked. The old monk filled his pockets to the utmost, and took in his arms and hands as much as they would hold, hut, to his sorrow, instead of being allowed to walk home alone, he was blindfolded again and carried back as he had been taken ; consequently, he had no idea of the route they had traversed. All at once it occurred to him that he would be as cunning as his friends ; so he secretly unfastened a string of beads (or a rosary, as it is called) which he wore round his neck, and which he used for counting his prayers. These he dropped one by one occasionally, as he was being carried, thinking that when dayl iglit came he could, by means of them, find his way back to the mine. Ilow mistaken he was remains to be seen. As he lay in bed, chuckling to himself at the thought of how rich he would very soon be, the Indian knocked at the door. “ I have brought your beads, father,” said he ; “ you dropped them on your way.” It is to be hoped the monk felt guilty for being so selfish. In connection with Chili there was one man who, among others, did so much for his country that his name ought not to be forgotten. This was an Irish- man called Ambrose Higgins, who was the son of a poor man, and who as a little boy had to carry letters to the post for a grand Irish lady. Fortunately for CLUMP OP CACTI IN TUB PESEBT OP ATACAMA. CHILI AND THE SILVER MINES. 59 him, lie had an uncle who was a clever priest, and who, after educating his little nephew, sent him oft* to the much-talked-of country that had just been dis- covered, nor caring much, probably, whether the little fellow made his fortune there or was killed by the natives; at any rate it was a dangerous experiment to send a boy out alone into such a wild country. For a little time Ambrose kept a little shop of some kind near the cathedral, in the great city of Lima, but finding that he had very little custom he left Peru and went across to Chili, and there delighted some of the authorities by the skill he displayed as an engineer. He then bravely went among the savage natives. Those whom he could not make his friends he subdued, until the king was so pleased with the brave stranger that he made him a colonel, and gave him the title of Count of Balleuar. From that time honours, won by his ability and enterprise, were one after another presented to him until at last, nineteen years after his first appearance in Peru as a poor friendless boy, he was made Captain -General of Chili ; and it is pleasant to relate that he did not forget, in the time of his prosperity, to send home to his poor relations in Ireland a portion of his wealth. So well did he occupy his high position, that even now the people of Chili speak of him as one of the best rulers they ever had. At length, nine years after, he was made Viceroy of Peru, dying, when quite an old man, after holding the office for four years. From all we hear of the good man he is certainly one of those to whom the New World is indebted for much of its present prosperity. 1 1 is son, Bernardo, in 60 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA later years imitated the example of his noble father by spending his strength in the service of his country, although, in return for it all, he, like many other good men, was repaid by his countrymen for his unselfishness with ingratitude, and was even permitted to die in exile. Before leaving Chili we ought not to forget to mention that the solitary abode of Robinson Crusoe was on Juan Fernandez, an island belonging to Chili. This island was discovered by a Spanish navigator called Juan Fernandez, who gave to the place his own name, and formed an establishment on it. In later years a Scotchman, Alexander Selkirk by name, lived on it alone for four years, and his adventures are supposed to have given rise to Daniel De Foe's interesting story of Robinson Crusoe. CHAPTER VI. BOLIVIA AND THE SLAVE-TRADE. II E province ), of Bolivia is so called in honour of a great general called Boli- var, who made the inhabitants free from Spanish ty- ranny. Although a native of America, he was descended from high - horn Spanish parents, and had been educated at Madrid. After travelling in many lands, he chose for his home the land of his birth, where, as he looked around and saw the amount of suffering that was being endured on all sides, he resolved that tne work of his life should be to drive out the tyrants who had taken possession of the land, and make his country- men free. There is little doubt about the fact that these Spanish invaders, who, after the death of Columbus, poured into different parts of South America, were GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. GOING ON BOARD SHIP. hard task-masters. They looked with envious eyes upon the wealth that lay hidden in the mines of gold and silver, and in order to enrich themselves with it they employed the natives to dig it up for them, making the poor creatures work so hard that their lives were simply miserable. According to the law called The Mila , a cer- tain number of Indians were annually chosen by lot for this purpose, and those upon whom the lot fell knew so well what hardships were in store for them that they would quite as willingly have received the sen- tence of death. Well might they dread it so much, for hundreds of those poor miners per- ished. How they must have wished the Spa- 11 i a r d s BOLIVIA AND THE SLAVE-TRADE. G3 Lad never set foot in their land, but left them in peace under the rule of their old Incas. So eager were the Spaniards to enrich themselves, that they were not satisfied with having the natives only to work for them ; they sent to Africa, and had a number of negroes packed off in ships like so many cattle, and they were made to work in the mines also. How horrible slavery is we know too well, both from the old Bible history of the Israelites who were in bondage to the cruel king Pharaoh, and from the narratives of the miseries formerly endured by slaves on the cotton planta- tions in the United States. Very sad it is to read of the sufferings of these poor slaves. Very often they were beaten unmercifully by their Spanish masters for quite trill- ing offences, and were kept so hard at work in the mines that numbers of them died. Not long ago in one part of Africa slaves were the chief articles of commerce, and were taken about chained together in couples, so that they had no chance of running away. In this miserable plight they were driven in large numbers before their masters, who generally were seated on camels, and who GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. 64 were provided with whips to lash the poor creatures if they did not keep up their proper speed. Thus they walked for miles until they arrived at the sea-coast, when they were sold to the highest bidder and shipped off to some far-off land, no one caring whether husbands were parted from their wives or children from their parents. Very often by the time they reached the coast their legs and feet were swollen with fatigue, while their poor bodies were thin and bony, for very little food was allowed them ; and many of the poor little children were worn to skeletons with the hardships of the journey, and with the heavy burdens they had been made to carry. As a proof of the inhu- manity of some of those old slave-drivers, even horses were considered much more valuable than slaves. In the real negro country in Africa ten or fifteen slaves have been given in ex- change for a fine horse, and the traders of slaves used to speak of them as we now hear farmers speak of their cattle. Even in the ships, as they crossed the water from their own home, where they had probably been sold in exchange, not for money, but for iron. BOLIVIA AND THE SLAVE TRADE. G5 ^•oys, spirits, or salt, they were huddled together in so little room, and were so miserably fed,, that many of them died there, and had to be thrown overboard. It is almost difficult to say who were most to be pitied, the masters or the slaves. Surely the AT WORK ON A PLANTATION. nature of those wretched slave-owners must have been miserably hard and coarse, or they would not have been able to treat as they did any of God^s children. Some of them, it seems, quite believed that American Indians and negroes had no souls, and that they did not under - E 66 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. stand wliat love, and joy, and suffering were, but were simply intended to be beasts of burden, like oxen, and dogs, and horses. Therefore they treated them as it is to be hoped any of lis would be ashamed to treat a creature of any kind that God had made. For many years hundreds and thousands of slaves in America were thus made to toil, not in the mines only, but in culti- vating sugar and coffee, or in doing anything else that it pleased the masters to command them to do. By degrees, however, as one sad tale after another reached the ears of good men in our own and in other countries, indignation filled many a heart, and not until a law had been made abolishing slavery were loving, humane men such as Wilberforce and Clarkson satisfied. Now in no English colony are slaves to be found, and not very many anywhere else, because in most of the states the negroes have been allowed to purchase their liberty ; consequently, at the present time great numbers of them who act as porters, drivers, and servants of every description, receive wages, and have thus learnt to be honest and industrious. The great day when the slaves were made free, after many long years of patient wait- ing and struggling on the part of all who hated slavery, was the 1st of August, 1838. In Jamaica — a West Indian island that belongs to England — the negroes there were so rejoiced at the thought of being free that a great many did not go to bed the night before, but as soon as the sun rose bands of them were to be heard in the villages, calling out, “ W e're free ! we're free ! " Then they flocked to the chapels that had been built by missionaries, and thanked God for putting it into the hearts of civilised Christian men to loose from them their heavy bonds of slavery. WEST INDIAN N EG DOES GIVING THANES FOR THEIR FREEDOM. 68 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. The white Spanish masters had tried for a long time to persuade the negroes that they were little better than the horses and llamas and mules of which they had the charge ; but when the missionaries went to live amongst them they told them that God loved all His dark- skinned children quite as much as He loved the white ones, and this was very joyful news to them. At one time there was actually a law in existence forbidding black people to enter a church or chapel ; and very sad it was, we can imagine, to see stand- ing at the doors a number of the poor creatures who were not allowed to enter the place of worship. We may be quite sure that those who refused them entrance were of the same disposition as the Pharisee who once stood in the Temple at J erusalem, and thanked God that he was not quite so wicked as other men. As you know, a little farther off: stood a poor publican, who was so sorry for his sins that he would not so much as lift up his eyes to heaven, but smote upon his breast, crying, “ God be merciful to me, a sinner.” He, Jesus tells us, was “ justified rather than the other; for every one that exalteth himself shall be abased, and he that humbleth himself shall be exalted.” Of one thing we may be quite sure : that God would hear the prayers of the negroes outside the church quite as distinctly as any that were offered within. Since the missionaries have taken such pains to teach the negroes, they are much happier than they once were, and among the sad tales that have come to us are also amusing ones. They are very fond of dressing themselves gaily in bright showy colours, and the lady negroes like very much to be seen in white muslin gowns, with gay ribbons and BOLIVIA AND THE SLAVE TRADE. 69 parasols. All the negroes now have comfortable little homes of their own, instead of having to exist in mud huts, as they once did, and wearing nothing but coarse ragged garments. All this is much pleasanter to think of than the cruel days of old. The following is one of the songs they used to be sometimes heard singing- : — o o “ Oh ! poor negro, ho will go, Some one day, Over the water and the snow, Far away ; Over the mountain big and high, Some one day, To that country in the sky, Far away. “ Jesu Massa, bring me home Some one day ; Then I’ll live with the Holy One, Far away ; Sin no more my heart make sore, Some one day ; I praise my Jesus evermore, Far away.” Although not a missionary, Bolivar was a brave unselfish man, and it is to men like him that we are indebted for the world being made better. Well does he deserve to be remembered with love and gratitude by the people who owe their present freedom to him. He was a rich man, but instead of settling down, and quietly enjoying his wealth, as he might have done, he spent nearly all his money in the service of his country ; and once, when a million dollars were presented to him as a token of gratitude for what he had done, instead of 70 GLIMPSES OP SOUTH AMERICA. devoting the money to Ills own use, he purchased with it the liberty of a thousand slaves. Before lie died, too, he succeeded in making three South American countries, Colombia, Peru, and Bolivia free ; and still it is said that he died in exile, and actually in want of the necessaries of life. At Caraccas and at Lima — two South American towns — are monuments erected to his memory; so that where they stand, at any rate — and it is to he hoped in many other places also — his name will never be for- gotten. The history of Bolivia is very much like that of Peru ; indeed, the countries lie so close together that Bolivia was at one time called Upper Peru. The chief town is Lucre, so called after another great general, who, like Bolivar, assisted in making the province free. Potosi, another Bolivian town, has long been famous for its great wealth, because it is built at the foot of a high mountain in which are some large silver mines, accidentally discovered by an Indian in 1545. It is said that this Indian, called Diego Icualca, was pursuing a vicuna on the mountain. As he w r as running, the path was so steep that he would have fallen if he had not caught hold of a shrub, which he seized and tore from the ground, when, to his astonishment, a quantity of silver was clinging to its roots. He meant to have kept the affair a secret ; but the one person he had taken into his confidence (a slave) betrayed him, consequently the mine very soon became public property, while Diego himself gained little by it. Many of the American mines are among the barren heights of the mountains. One method of carrying the metal down the steep paths is to put it on the back BOLIVIA AND THE SLAVE TRADE 71 of an animal called the llama — a pretty creature, a little taller than a sheep, and covered with a short, dark, coarse wool. It cannot travel quickly, but is very sure-footed, and although only an animal, is sufficiently sensible not to attempt to carry too great a burden. THE LLAMA. When it finds the weight on its back greater than it can bear, it lies down, and will not rise until its load has been lightened. So useful are these gentle-evcd animals (for each llama can carry a sack containing a hundred pounds of metal), that it would be difficult to carry on the mining business without them ; and, for- tunately, in Bolivia they are very plentiful. CROSSING THE TAMP AS. BOLIVIA AND THE SLAVE TRADE. 73 Troops of many hundreds of them may he seen in Peru, descending the mountains with their bags of barilla, as the powdered ore is called, each troup led by a horse, with a bell attached to his neck, to warn approaching travellers to stop at places where the road is not wide enough, or to avoid deep precipices. In some parts of South America so many droves of mules and llamas cross the pampas, or treeless deserts, with loads of various kinds that the track is covered with bones of animals that have died either of fatigue or of hunger. To one of these places the name of “ The Tombs ” has been given. The care of all these animals provides occupation for very many of the red men in Bolivia. CHAPTER VII. Bolivia (continued ) . o_» t N addition to its mineral wealth, Bolivia is rich in all kinds of plants and vegetables, fruits and herbs. One plant peculiar to that part of the world is called coca or cuca — a word we must not mistake for cocoa, because the Bolivian coca is not at all like the cocoa we drink in England. In some places it is called spadie, and grows as high as six or eight feet, and has pretty thin oval leaves, which the Indians chew, on account, it is said, of the sus- taining power contained in them. If we were to meet any of these Indians as we travelled in Bolivia or Peru, we should be sure to find them provided with a little leathern bag, fdled with the dried leaves of the plant. This bag they hang by their side, and as soon as a feeling of hunger or weariness comes on, they take out a few leaves and chew them, and before long the tra- veller feels, quite refreshed. An Indian well supplied with these leaves can go on BOLIVIA. 75 working two or three days without food, neither will he feel sleepy; for there is some wonderful virtue in the leaves that banishes sleep as well as hunger. Such must be the case, for the arrieros, as the mule leaders are called, always provide them- selves with a good store of coca, when preparing themselves for a journey ; and many of them think nothing of following the baggage mules for weeks to- gether, day after day, from mom-% ing to night, running often as much as thirty or forty miles in one day. There must therefore be some special virtue in the plant, although the flavour of it is so insipid that it has been compared by one traveller to that of well-boiled tea-leaves. A BOLIVIAN OF SPANISH DESCENT. 76 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA The old Peruvians, it seems, knew of the plant, and prized it, for we find they offered it as a sacrifice to their gods; and even at the present time the silver GATHERING C ;CA. miners throw sprays of it on the rock where they are working, in the belief that the leaves will soften the metal. Of course we know well enough that the pretty delicate leaves have no effect upon the hard metal ; though, at the same time, if the belief that it has such BOLIVIA. 77 power makes the miner’s work easy for him instead of being laborious, the little plant is not altogether useless. Partly in Bolivia and partly in Peru is that wonderful lake of Titicaca, which is the largest and most important lake in South America. The principal attraction of it is that on the island of the same name is said to have lived the first Inca, Manco Capae, and his wife Mama Oello, of whom we have already heard. There they dwelt before they set out on their errand of love, to instruct their fellow country people; from that time, therefore, the spot had been considered sacred by the Incas. They bestowed great labour on the cultivation of its soil ; they built terraces, and beautified it in every way they could imagine. The wheat that was grown in it was distributed among the different temples and convents of the kingdom, so that all might have the advantage of a few of the grains, that were almost as precious as if they had come direct from heaven. These grains were carefully sown again, and the pro- duce of them again distributed among the people, while a few ears were scattered among the grain stores, the impression being that they would purify and keep from corruption the food of the inhabitants. It was also believed that the possession of a single grain of such precious wheat would ensure to its owner prosperity and plenty. No wonder that a temple was built in such a holy place, one dedicated to the sun, something like the gorgeous sun temple that was built at Cuzco ; and as every Peruvian was expected to visit the building at some time or other, and to present a gift, it became laden with treasures. VIEW ON THE SHORE OF LAKE TITICACA. BOLIVIA. 79 When the country was conquered by the Spaniards, the natives, rather than see the sacred edifice robbed of its wealth, threw it all into the lake, and pulled the temple itself to the ground. This island of Titicaca appears to have been regarded much in the same way as Mecca and Medina were by the Mahommedans, and as Jerusalem was by the Jews. Pilgrimages were made to it by the old Incas. On the road to the temple were a number of huge rocks, which could be imagined to represent almost any- thing; just in the same way as we can sometimes see warriors and flocks of sheep in the red cinders, as we sit dreamily looking into the fire. The Incas said these rocks were men who, as a punishment for not having fasted sufficiently, or made every necessary preparation for the pilgrimage, had been turned into stone, and were doomed therefore to stand in future as warnings for others not to neglect their duty. There is another spot in this sacred lake which has been, and perhaps still is, an object of interest as great as any other in South America, and that is the piece of ground where now stand the ruins of Tiahuanueo. Travellers who have visited them tell us that they must have been built long before any other monuments in America — before even the time of the first Incas; and that, although so long ago, the people who erected them must have been very clever and industrious. When the Spaniards went sweeping into that part of the country to take possession of it, they gazed in as- tonishment at these marvellous structures, and asked the Indians what they were, and who built them. “ They existed/' said the poor red men, “ before 1 he sun 80 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. shone in the heavens, and were raised by giants ; or perhaps ” (they added) “ they are the remains of some wicked people whom an angry god converted into stone for their wickedness.” From what the Indians said it KUINS OF TIIE TEMPLE OF THE SHtf. was very evident they were as ignorant of the origin of the ruins, near which they had lived all their lives, as were the foreign soldiers. With all their skill these old builders, whoever they may have been, did not understand the use of mortar, or BOLIVIA. 81 rather they could build so well without it that they did not need to know its use. Like Solomon's Temple, the stones were made to fit exactly into each other, and were held in position by round holes drilled into the top and bottom of each stone at corresponding 1 distances, into which were placed pins of bronze. The position of these ruins, which evidently formed the temple where these ancient inhabitants used to worship, is not at all unlike the great stones that are to be seen in our own country on Salisbury Plain, and that we know by the name of Stonehenge, though differing from them in being much more accurately cut. Then there seems to have been a fortress, and a palace, and a hall of justice; all of which prove that the place was the home of a set of people who were civilised and refined, but who, long before the time of Columbus or any other modern adventurer, had died, and left no sign to tell us truly who they were. For all that, no one can gaze upon these old ruins without being filled with admiration for the unknown architects who passed away so long ago. The later inhabitants of Bolivia — those whom the first Spanish invaders found dwelling there — like all the native Indians of both North and South America, appear to have been quite a different race of beings in comparison with those old Incas. Their days are spent in hunting for food and in decorating their bodies ; and though some of them are partially civilised, there are still very many who live degraded selfish lives, and whose habits and customs are so unlike our own that we cannot help regarding them with curiosity as well as with pity. F 82 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. The principal native tribes in this province of Bolivia are those called the Quiehuas and the Aimaras, all of whom are very fanatical and superstitions. They wear what are called ponchas — loose blanket capes — and are generally to be seen chewing coca leaves while driving their mules, working in the mines, or attending to any other business. Among other curious customs of theirs they practice one called the language of knots, which in times past was common among the old Incas in Peru, but which in the present time is almost a thing forgotten. When the inhabitants of these regions had no alpha- bet, and consequently had no means of keeping a written record of their doings, they invented what was called the quipu — a twisted woollen cord — and, strange to say, they made this cord answer the purpose of a memorandum book. How they did it we cannot tell, but upon the cord they tied a number of threads of all colours, every thread having some particular meaning ; and though no one understood it but themselves, there was quite a long history of events twined round the pretty-looking cord. It was, of course, a very poor substitute for writing ; still it was a little better than having to trust entirely to memory, and in some parts of Bolivia the quipu is still in use. These natives of Bolivia (by the natives we mean, not the descendants of Spaniards who at one time con- quered the country, but the real inhabitants of the place), though dark-skinned and half-savage, are in a certain way expert and clever. They are very skilful with the bow and arrow, with which they not only shoot wild animals and birds, but also fish ; and another plan the fishermen adopt is to throw poison into the stream. BOLIVIA. S3 When the fishes take it they almost immediately die ; then they rise to the surface of the water and are taken out. Although the skin of these Indians is so dark that no doubt we should think it would be improved by being made lighter instead of still darker, they seem to have a different opinion. Their cheeks and round their eyes they paint red, and other parts of their body black. From the nose is often suspended a silver coin ; round the neck is a string of beads or berries, and if room can be found for the gay feather of a bird, or for the claw of a bird or a wild animal, so much better pleased the red man is. As a proof that they are rather proud of their ap- pearance, they carry by their side a bag containing a few articles that they use when adorning themselves — a comb, for instance, made of the thongs of the palm-tree ; a small quantity of a certain kind of juice to paint their cheeks; an apple of a peculiar description, which when F 2 ANCIENT MONUMENTS. 84 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. rubbed on the skin turns it black. There is also a pair of pincers,, to pull out any hair that dares to make its appearance unnecessarily ; but it will amuse you to hear of what the pincers are made, for they are nothing but two mussel-shells. They carry a snuff-box, too, made of a snail’s shell, and a few other things ; so that if de- tained from home for any length of time, the owner of the bag need suffer no inconvenience. One tribe, called the Yuracare In- dians, who dwell in this district, though BOLIVIAN (SPANISH). savage, are teachable quite and famous hunters, so, gipsy-like, things and march on. friendly. They make their home in one place among the plains or mountains for two or perhaps three years ; by that time they are tired of the spot, or fancy they will find more game else- where, for they are they pack up their One garment worn by them is a shirt made from the bark of a tree, which is cleverly constructed by beating the bark out until sufficiently thin. With very bright colours extracted from various dye-yielding trees they then paint on the shirts all BOLIVIA. 85 kinds of designs, some of which are quite clever and pretty. The cacique, or chief of the tribe, wears on state occasions a pigtail made of gay feathers from birds, the backs of bright-coloured beetles, and shells of nuts ; be- sides which both he and all the rest of the tribe paint small black stripes and rings on their arms and legs. The Y uracares are very fond of music, too, and comical instruments they use for their per- formances. For in- stance, the bone from a monkey's leg, or that of a stork, being hollow inside, is polished up and made into a flute or whistle ; and though perhaps we might have diffi- culty in discovering either tune or harmony in the sounds produced by these bone instru- ments, the Yuracares evidently wish for nothing: better. How delightful the noise must be we can imagine, when we know that the musicians, seated in a ring, play every one what note he likes, paying no BOLIVIAN (SPANISH). regard to any one else. The Quichuan Indians on feast days dress themselves in tigers' skins, and put macaw feathers among their thick bushy hair, when they are supposed to represent the wild animals of the forest. 8G GLIMPSES OP SOUTH AMERICA. This custom would lead us to suppose that, like some of the tribes in Hindostan, these South American Indians had once worshipped the tiger. At any rate, among the Yuracares a strange tradition prevails about the tiger. There are two rivers in Bolivia called the Sacta and the Yio, which as they flow meet each other and unite. Just above the spot where they meet are three large stones, placed one above another in the form of a column about thirty yards high, dividing the river into two chan- nels. The old tradition says that a tiger and one of these stones were the parents of the first human being, who was a woman, and whose name was Mamore. This Mamore had two sons — one a bad man, who became the father of all wicked Bolivians, the other a good man, the father of good Bolivians like the Yura- cares themselves. The idea had no doubt been suggested to them by the Jesuit missionaries who went once from Spain to instruct the savages living in what they called the New World. In many parts of Bolivia, and also in Peru, are to be seen also by travellers some remarkable buildings which are known by the name of chulpas. They vary in height; some are twenty others thirty feet high. Some arc in ruins, some half-finished, and others as perfect as when first built. They were most probably erected by the old Incas, or even by a race of people older still, to serve as tombs for dead friends; because in many of them skeletons have been found, as well as gold and silver ornaments, and other things. They all differ from each other in some way; no two are alike. The large handsome ones are supposed to have been built for eminent and distinguished persons, the GIGANTIC FIGUKE AT TITICACA. 88 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. small ones for individuals of less importance; but in one respect they are all alike, and that is that the doors all face the east. The Incas, as we have heard, worshipped the sun, and most likely the doors have been thus placed out of respect to their deity. Although the present inhabitants can give us no certain information respect- ing these chulpas, an Indian guide once declared that according to tradition the builders, whoever they were, at the approach of death, caused themselves to be walled up without food, believing that by so doing a happy life in a future state would be ensured to them. Whether this statement be true or not is uncertain, but that the chulpas are among the most remarkable monuments of America is undeniable. CHAPTER VIII. BRAZIL AND ITS FORESTS. HE large South Ameri can country of Brazil, famous for its ranges of lofty mountains, was dis- covered by Vincent Yanez Pincon, a Spaniard, one of the companions of Columbus. Imitating his friend Christopher in his love of novelty and adventure, Pincon sailed along the coast until he reached the mighty river Amazon; there he stopped, and boldly marched into the interior to find out what kind of place it was where he had landed. A number of red men and women, some of whom were shooting at fish, others painting their bodies, and making necklaces for them- selves of fishes* teeth and berries from the trees, stared at the intruder and his friends, and prepared to defend themselves if necessary. 90 GLIMPSES OP SOUTII AMERICA Finding- that the white men were harmless, however, they fortunately did them no harm ; indeed, as Pincon, like most of the American adventurers of that time, w as doubtless provided with presents for any savages he VIEW AT THE MOUTH OF THE AMAZON. might see, it is not at all unlikely that they helped them to load their ships Avith the monkeys and parrots, and Brazil wood that Pincon collected to take home to the King of Spain. Without stopping to do more than this, Pincon sailed home again, told the king what he BRAZIL AND ITS FORESTS, 91 had seen, and, to prove his words, exhibited his pretty parrots and all the other things he had with him. Some years afterwards, a Portuguese commander of a vessel, who really was on his way to India, was driven to the same coast where Pincon had landed, and was as INDIAN OJ TIIE AMAZON. delighted with all he saw as his predecessor appeared to have been, although, instead of remaining in the place, he hurried off to the Indies, whither he had first been bound. After that there was a great deal of quarrelling 9*2 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. between Spain and Portugal as to which country had the greater claim to the ownership of the newly dis- covered territory, all disturbances ending at last in Brazil declaring its independence of either kingdom. It will probably always be regarded as very closely con- nected with Portugal, because its emperor is a member of the Portuguese royal family ; still, it is really at the present time an empire in its own right. To say very much about Brazil would be impossible in a few pages, because it is 2,600 miles long, and is therefore larger than any other division of South America. So many wonderful tales have been told of its inhabitants, and of their beautiful home, that all we hear makes us only long to know more. Through the north of Brazil flows that immense river the Amazon, which is the largest river in the world, and which is so famed for its beauty. Along its banks, stately, graceful trees, such as we in England have never seen, wave their luxuriant branches. Parrots, with lovely crimson and gold feathers, chatter and gleam among them, and monkeys chase each other, and gambol to their hearts* content. The voyagers who have sailed down its lovely waters tell us that as they lie in their hammocks, with the line fresh sea-breezes streaming in upon them, they are sur- rounded by some of the most beautiful pictures imagin- able. There are to be seen numbers of little islands covered with palm and other trees. So close to each other some of these islands are, that a child standing on one could easily throw a stone to another. Among them birds with gaudy plumage are fluttering, while below them numbers of flowers are thickly strewing the ground. The scene altogether from the vessel is like one immense BRAZIL AND ITS FORESTS. 93 dissolving* view, for the reason that every minute the picture changes. Huts belonging to the natives are occasionally to be seen on the water's edge, many of which, to preserve them from being washed away, are well supported with large stones. How terrible it must be to be exposed to a storm on this mighty river, we can form some idea from the following story of two men who nearly lost their lives during a tempest on the Amazon. They were out on the waves when a frightful storm overtook them ; torrents of rain and hail poured down, filling the boat, and so terrible was the tempest that more than once they gave themselves up as lost. All at once, like some good fairy making its appearance, one of the boatmen spied a water-plant, and knowing, there- fore, that they could not be struggling in very deep water, he seized a very long, thick stick which they had with them and plunged it into the billows. Happily the stick rested in the soil beneath, when, pushing it firmly down, the two men laid hold of it, and by this means, as long as the storm lasted, they kept their boat from being either overturned or washed away. Tired indeed they must have been, for they passed the whole night clutching the stick ; and how welcome daylight must have been, and the knowledge it brought that the storm had nearly abated, we can well imagine. Sometimes during these heavy storms a whole island is washed away in little more than a few minutes. It happened once that some travellers, during a storm on the Amazon, had fortunately taken shelter on an island so full of high spreading palm trees that their branches THE MAURITIA TAL.M. BRAZIL AND ITS FORESTS. 95 formed quite a strong, spacious roof, and served as a protection from the storm. Seated in their canoe, and while waiting for the storm to subside, the travellers actually saw this little island of Jahmna, which was three miles in length, entirely disappear. The tremendous waves rushed over it, swamping all the low trees and plants until nothing could be seen of them. Some very old trees that had stood the storms of many years struggled very hard for life. They appeared almost to be saying, “ We and the tempest will try who are to be the conquerors ; ” but after a brave fight their roots were torn up, their grace- ful branches strewed hither and thither, and in a very few more minutes the waters roared over the spot just as if no island had ever stood there. Of all South American trees, perhaps the palm-trees are as remarkable as any other in South America, for the Indians make use of them in so many ways that they are evidently regarded as an absolute necessity. They do not grow in every part of the country ; miles of forests may be passed without a single palm being seen, while in other parts they grow in great numbers. On river banks especially they abound, bending over the stream and waving tlieir beautiful leaves in the breeze. There are very many different kinds of them; some are only a few feet high, called dwarf trees, while the great mauritia palms of the Amazon are more than 100 feet high. One traveller tells us that he measured one that was 19:2 feet high. Some are stemless, consisting only of a spreading crown of large leaves, and one palm bears fruit that hangs in such large bunches that it requires more than one strong man to carry a single bunch. 96 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. The leaves of the trees are so large that the natives thatch their huts with them, and the leaf -stalks, often fifteen or twenty feet long, are used as rafters, or, when fastened together with pegs, form doors and shutters. In fact, there is a special kind of tree for almost every want of the red man ; he has one for his bows and arrows, another for his blow-pipe, and one from the leaf of which he makes a cradle for his little black baby, a hat for himself, or even a wrapper. At the entrance to the botanical gardens at Rio is to be seen a magnificent avenue of palm-trees, which, in reality, must be very grand ; indeed, from the little illustration before us, we can form a very fair idea of its height and beauty. Numberless articles of food also are produced from palms, such as bread, oil, sugar, salt, fruit, and veget- ables. The famous betel nut chewed by the Malays is the fruit of what is called the areca palm ; it is esteemed as highly by them as the coca leaf is by the Bolivians, the opium is by the Chinese, or as tobacco is by Euro- peans. The cow-tree also we must not forget to speak about, for it is one of the largest of the forest monarchs, and is peculiar in appearance on account of its red ragged bark. The fruit it bears is, we are told, very delicious, and is sold in the streets by the negro market-women, but what is most wonderful is that sweet milk is drawn from the wood, even from dry logs that have been standing for many days in the hot sun, though if left to stand long it becomes very thick, like glue; in fact, it is often used as a cement for mending crockery. From another tree called the seringa we obtain that AVENUE OF PALMS AT RIO. G 98 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA, useful substance called india-rubber. The men who are engaged in extracting the liquid earn very good wages for themselves, if they choose to work well and be industrious. They often begin very early in the morning, and the plan they adopt is to cut a hole in one tree after another, leaving under each one a jar to catch the milky substance ; so that in a few hours they are able to get quite a large quantity, all of which has to be dried in the sun before it is fit for use. Hundreds of poor Indians build their huts close to BRAZIL AND ITS FORESTS. 99 the banks of the river under the shade of the high trees, and gain their livelihood by collecting the sap. With a sharp knife they split open the bark of the tree, when out flows the milky sub- stance, which, when dried in the sun, makes india-rubber ; the smoke-drying process by which it is hardened accounts for its black appearance as we see it. At one time the provinces watered by the Amazon were called the country of the Amazones, though, strange to say, those great brave women called the Amazones who brought up their girls to be warriors, and either killed their boys or sent them away, did not live near this river Amazon, as we might have EXTRACTING INDIA- RUBBER. 100 GLIMPSES OP SOUTH AMERICA. supposed, but in the far-off east. Many other lofty trees grace the banks of the Amazon, and not far from the coast are thick plantations of cocao trees, which supply us with the chocolate and cocoa we use. Most of these plantations belong to rich Portuguese gentlemen, who have built for themselves handsome OVERSEER OF A COFFEE PLANTATION. houses along the river's banks, and who lead an easy, idle kind of life. They keep plenty of black servants to attend to the plantations, and once a year, when the fruit is gathered, all are hard at work as we are at harvest time. After being gathered the fruit has to be cut open, the pips are then taken out, dried in the sun, BRAZIL AND ITS FORESTS. 101 packed up, and put into ships that are bound for other lands. Coffee, also, is very extensively grown in Brazil. It is said to have been first introduced there about the middle of the eighteenth century, and now in some of the Brazilian provinces immense forests of coffee-trees NEGROES GATHERING COFFEE IN BRAZIL. flourish, and the owners of them think there is no coffee in the world equal to theirs. In order to make a coffee plantation, or a fazenda, as it is called, the owner first of all sows his seeds, and leaves the young plants for a whole year to develop. At the end of that time his servants gather them very 102 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. carefully, and transplant them into another piece of ground, where, after being carefully tended for three years more, they begin to produce berries, bearing more and more every year, and sometimes as many as two crops in one year. After doing this for thirty years, both the trees and the soil seem to have exhausted themselves, and new plantations have to be made. On being gathered the berries are white, and have to be dried in the hot sun, or baked, before they receive the rich brown colour that is so familiar to us. The whole of Brazil, in fact, is famous for the great size and number of its trees, most of which are made useful in some way or other by the natives. There is one favourite nut-tree of the Indians that grows to the height of a hundred feet. In summer its branches are covered with rose-coloured leaves and white blossoms, and in autumn nuts as large as a cannon ball are hanging from its branches. The Indians take the precaution of keeping away from these nut-trees during a storm ; for if the fruit were to fall on the head of some unfortunate fellow, the result would be anything but agreeable, however thick and woolly his hair might be. As a proof of the great size of these Brazilian trees, a traveller once saw a canoe that belonged to a mission- ary, and, although it was made out of a single tree, it measured thirty feet in length and five in breadth ; and from a single trunk of the wild cotton -tree canoes have been built large enough to contain a hundred persons; while the leaf of a certain palm-tree affords a shade to five or six men. It seems, however, that the strength of them is not BRAZIL AND ITS FORESTS 103 equal to their size and beauty. Reared in a warm climate, they are like hot- house plants ; and, unlike our English oak, that is so strong and so deeply -rooted that it can stand erect in a furious tempest, these grace- ful foreigntrees,with their roots extending: only a little way below the surface of the earth, are often blown down by a strong breeze; and as they fall they frequently destroy many others with them. Round some of the large trees grow parasitical or climbing plants, called 1 i a n e s, the branches of which twine round the trunks of large trees, forming very often perfect gal- leries or canopies of LIANES EOUND THE TF.UNK OF A TEEE. 104 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMEHICA. flowers; though in some parts these parasitical plants grow so thickly that the forests are rendered impassable by them, and their tendrils so cover the tops of the highest trees that all foliage and flowers but their own are almost entirely hidden. These creepers twist round thick trunks of trees, and round slender stems, hanging sometimes in loops from the branches, or perhaps stretching themselves from tree to tree. Where their root is, or how they grow, is quite a puzzle. As Tops}r, who had been left to grow up as best she could, clung fondly to the new friends she found, so these wild climbers start up from some unknown corner and cling round the first shrubs or trees that happen to he near, clinging so tightly, toe , that it is difficult to tear them away. Some of them are slender and smooth, others are rugged and knotted. Very often a number of them are twined together, so as to form quite a thick cord, and are used by the Indians for cables, to hind the wooden anchors they use. Indeed, they are made to serve almost every purpose for which we should need a rope or chain. The Indians are so well acquainted with these forest ropes that when in want of one they take their choice among them, according to the use for which it is meant to be employed. Some of them will bear twisting and tying, some will last longest in salt water, others in fresh water. With one kind the planks of boats, and even of large sailing vessels, are bound, and they are useful in num- berless other ways. When the branch of a tree falls, creepers are often left hanging in the air. If so, they blow about wildly SCENE IN A BRAZILIAN FORES': 106 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. i for a little time, then, as if resolving not to despair because one friend has forsaken them, they throw out their tendrils and catch hold of other trees growing beneath them, and round these they are very soon as tightly clasped as they were round their lost friends. As if to prove their gratitude for the support given them, they sometimes burst out into lovely blossoms, thus ornamenting with delicate tinted flowers tall, strong, stately trees upon which nothing but leaves are ever seen ; but, strange to say, in the shade of the forest the climbers flower very rarely. Hundreds of other trees also are to be found in those grand forests, all of which are made useful in one way or another by the inhabitants ; and not to them only are all these trees useful, for we also, who live so far away, derive untold benefits from the vast wooden treasure- houses of South America. CHAPTER IX. MORE ABOUT BRAZIL. t MONGthe other sources of wealth in Brazil we must not forget to mention the dia- monds, which, since the time of Columbus, have filled many a heart with envy. The finding of these precious stones was, of course, no new dis- covery. Solomon's Temple was ornamented with precious stones ; and faithful Job, in one of his parables, says, “ Surely there is a vein for the silver, and a place for gold where they fine it. Iron is taken out of the earth, and brass is molten out of the stone/' Those old Israelites, it seems, who lived in the East knew where to dig for hidden treasure just as well as 10S GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. the inhabitants of the New World, who were as eager to enrich themselves with it as if they had been the first miners who had ever taken hammer in hand. It happened at that time, as some miners were out NATIVE OF BRAZIL. one day in search of some of the marvellous riches that they had heard were to be found among the rugged mountains, they spied some bright, clear stones, which looked so pretty that th In addition to the • drivers, three or L- NEGROES OF Rip. MORE ABOUT BRAZIL. 115 four negroes are often mounted on mules and riding behind the carriage, just by way of giving an air of importance to the affair. To see many of the negroes of Brazil and other parts NEGRESSES OF RIO IN THE MARKET. of South America, one would hardly believe that they were strangers in a foreign land ; or rather that their fathers and mothers had been dragged like cattle from their home in Africa to work for the white-skinned in- h 2 VIEW OF BAHIA. MORE ABOUT BRAZIL. 117 vaders who had taken possession of the newly-discovered country. In the busy streets, where buyers and sellers of cotton, coffee, sugar, tobacco, and others articles of com- merce are trading with each other, dozens of negroes pace up and down, carrying great bales and bags of goods, most of them laughing and talking to each other, or singing their negro songs. The streets of this city are so steep that the negroes generally poise their bur- dens cleverly on their heads; then, forming themselves in a line, they set off running, singing as they go, as many other happy people like to do when at work. At one time the noise of these singing negroes was so great that they were ordered to be quiet ; not for long though, the masters found out that their work did not get done as quickly with the quiet negroes as with the noisy ones, so permission was given for the singing to be renewed. Many of them have kind masters, who feed them well and who do not overwork them ; therefore the poor creatures are content and happy. The Rio market is a famous place, and one that is well deserving of a visit from travellers who wish to gain inf ormation on Brazilian life. Numbers of negroes are to be seen there busily selling their fresh fine fruit ; oranges, vegetables, and flowers they exhibit in abun- dance. The women of this negro race, who assemble in great numbers in the market, are many of them quite handsome and graceful women ; and, judging from the proud independent air which the beauties assume, it is evident that they are conscious of their charms. On their heads they wear a high muslin turban, in addition to which a gay-coloured shawl is thrown around their 118 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. shoulders in all kinds of fantastic styles. It is some- times crossed over the breast, sometimes carelessly thrown over one shoulder ; in fact, no white lady could excel these negro market-women in the skill they display in the arrangement of their shawls. Another purpose to which these gay shawls are appropriated is for the benefit of the negro babies ; for TIIE EMPEROR’S PALACE AT PETROFOLIS. the mothers have a plan of twisting them so as to form comfortable little cradles, in which the little creatures rock to and fro as happily as if they were by the fire- side. At one time Bahia, or San Salvador, as it is called, was the capital of the empire, and even now it is next in importance to Rio. MORE ABOUT BRAZIL. 119 Situated in the grand Organ mountains is a lovely spot called Petropolis, where the Emperor of Brazil resides in his summer palace, and where many of the wealthy Brazilians resort during the hot season. Paths lined with beautiful palm-trees lead from the town in every direction, while ferns and magnificent flowers, such as we should consider rare, peep up on all sides ; and to see them, as they gracefully bend their delicate leaves and tendrils in the gentle breeze, they look fit ornaments for any emperor's home. Indeed, of all spots near Bio de Janeiro, Petropolis is the most lovely, and would serve as well as any for that fair land sought for by the little child who asks— ‘‘Is it where the flower of the orange blows, And the fire-flies dance through the myrtle boughs ? ” CHAPTER X. SOUTH AMERICAN INDIANS. S MONG the mountainous regions and in the forests of South America many tribes of wild Indians are dwell- ing who are still in a state of uncivilisation, and who delight in acts of cruelty. Of these the Boticudos are the most savage, and although many efforts have been made to conquer them, they have never yet been subdued. One favourite custom of theirs is to make themselves still uglier than they are naturally, by tearing open their under-lips and ears, and inserting pieces of wood into the rents thus made. A very remarkable circumstance to be noticed among most savages is the power they have of enduring pain. We often hear in our own country of good men and women, and even of children too, who are very patient under suffering, because they feel that it has been sent to them for some wise purpose ; but that ignorant wild men like these poor Indians, who have no refine- SOUTH AMERICAN INDIANS. 121 ment, and do not act from high and nohle motives, should impose upon themselves unnecessary suffering seems rather curious. These Brazilian Indians are par- ticularly brave and strong, even while enduring excru- ciating pain. They never seem to lose their courage, and would much sooner rush straight on to their own destruction than turn their back on the enemy. If any of us feel tempted to shrink from or to despise these half-wild creatures, let us remember the kind of life they lead. Some of their homes are nothing better than miserable huts, where mothers, fathers, sisters, and brothers all huddle together, living much more as do the animals that they feed upon than as human beings, who were made to love each other. From child- hood they grow up with the idea that happiness and greatness consist in the possession of bodily strength. The man who succeeds in killing the greatest number of wild animals, or even the greatest number of his own fellow-creatures, raises himself at once to the rank of hero. They do not understand that the truest bravery consists in resisting evil, because they have no true idea of what evil is, or what goodness is. What religion they have teaches them that there are two gods — one a good god, the other a bad god. The good god the Indian thinks helps him in whatever he wishes to do, whether the action be good or bad. Sup- posing he were to succeed in killing his own child, he would say the good god had helped him to do so; instead of that, if he were prevented in an act of cruelty, he would say the bad god had been working against him. Warmth, food, and pleasure are supposed to come from the good god, while cold, pain, failure. GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. m hunger, and even death are thought to be sent by the bad god. The South American Indians believe that the bad spirit is stronger than the good spirit, so they spend a great deal of time and thought in preventing his doing them any harm. They seem to hold the idea that by some means or other he must be kept in a good temper. One precaution against evil, among many other very absurd ones adopted by the Indians, is to be sup- plied with what is called a medicine bag. From its name we might be led to imagine that the bag contained physic of some kind, but the word medicine means to the Indian mystery , not physic ; and certainly it is very mysterious that a bag made of the skin of some animal, as these bags always are, should have the power of charming away evil and danger. Indian boys, therefore, as soon as they are about fifteen years of age, start out one day in search of some wild animal, which they must kill, and afterwards make their medicine bag of the skin. The size of the bag, perhaps, depends upon what animal happens to be chosen for the purpose; for the bags are of all sizes, BOTICUDO INDIAN. SOUTH AMERICAN INDIANS. 123 and the skins of all kinds of animals are used — some- times that of a buffalo, a wolf, or even of a rat. When the bag is once made, the boy is very careful not to lose it; for if he were to be so unfortunate he would have to be prepared for disasters of all kinds, and as to making a new one that would be out of the question. Medicine bags are sometimes lost, of course, however careful the owners may be ; but in such cases the un- lucky person, who is not allowed to supply himself with a second new one, tries to steal one from an enemy, and if he should succeed in doing this he is looked upon with greater respect than he was before he lost his own. Not only are there medicine bags among these Indians, but there are also what are called medicine men; and the title is one of very great honour, because it is only given to those of their number who prove them- selves to be very wise or powerful. It happens sometimes in their country that there is no rain for many da} T s; so after waiting for a long time, until the people begin to fear there will be no harvest, one of them declares that he will make the rain come. Accordingly, he goes up a high hill or mountain with a lance in his hand, and there he points to the clouds, pretending to pierce them, shouting to them all the time and entreating the rain to descend. If when night comes there should still be no rain, some one else takes his place next day; and thus they go on until the rain descends, when the man whose turn came last in the business gains the title of medicine man, and is greatly honoured by all the rest. Tales of this kind make us feel how ignorant the poor savages must be to believe such nonsense : — 124 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. There was a poor Indian who had been accidentally •hot, and as he lay dying his friends sent in haste for CIVILISED NATIVE OF BRAZIL. the medicine man. On making his appearance he was covered with the skin of a yellow bear, lie had a bear's SOUTH AMERICAN INDIANS. 125 face stuck over his own, and all kinds of strange things were hanging about him — such as skins of snakes, hoofs CIVILISED NATIVE WOMAN OP BRAZIL. of deer, birds, bears* claws, animals* tongues, tails, and teeth ; in fact, he looked most frightful. 126 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. In one hand he held a rattle, made of a number of bones strung* together, and which made a great noise as they knocked against each other; in the other hand he waved a spear, and as he approached the spot where the sufferer lay he grunted and growled like a real bear, jumping and frisking about in a very ridiculous manner. Then, when he reached the Indian, instead of sooth- ing or trying to cure the poor fellow, all he did was to drag the wounded man about. Of course the sick man could not bear such rough treatment, therefore we are not surprised that in a few minutes he was dead ; and though the friends standing round appeared quite satisfied with what had been done, it is difficult to discover any good that had been accom- plished in any way by the wonderful medicine man. More difficult still is it to understand how special wis- dom and power should be imagined to exist in a human being capable of acting so foolishly. However, these savage tribes are gradually growing smaller in numbers ; but the few of them that still remain in South America, especially the Boticudos, hate their conquerors, the Portuguese, and watch every oppor- tunity of shooting at them or doing them harm in other ways. Like all selfish, quarrelsome people, they imagine that every man’s hand is against them ; therefore they regard all white men as their enemies. Sometimes they hide among the trees, and cleverly send their arrows at any white travellers, or even at negroes; indeed, they hate the African negroes more than the white men, and whenever they can do so they both kill and eat them. Many of these Indian tribes live in the treeless SOUTH AMERICAN INDIANS. 127 regions, of which there are so many both in North and South America, as well as in Europe and Asia. Either from fear or dislike of the white men who from time to time have arrived amongst them, most of the Indians have fled to the mountains and plains and forests, so that there, unmolested, they may lead the old life to which they have always been accustomed. These treeless regions have different names given to them according to the places where they are found. In Asia they are called steppes, in the north of South America the^ are called llanos, in Brazil campos, in Peru pampas, and in North America prairies; but though named differently, they are very similar in character. CHAPTER XI. WILD ANIMALS IN BRAZIL. 4g*> fflfl HERE is scarcely any ^ country in the world where there are so many different kind of animals as in Brazil. One of the most remark- able is the lazy sloth. Lazy these creatures are considered, because very often they are found in open daylight fast asleep, hanging* to the boughs of trees ; consequently the name of sloth has been given to them. Still, the real truth of the matter is that they can move about quite quickly when so inclined; but, like the owl, they prefer night for their activity rather than daytime. They belong to an order known among animals as WILD ANIMALS IN BRAZIL. 129 Edentata, because they have no front teeth; but as they live upon vegetables, they manage to devour all the food they require with their back teeth. Then there are the armadillos, which are covered, as many other South American animals are, with a hard bony crust not at all unlike a coat of armour in appear- ance. They eat vegetables and insects. There are several different kinds of armadillos, and nowhere but in South America are they to be found. B/elated to the armadillo is the great ant-bear, which does so much mischief among the busy little ants. He is a lazy, unsociable animal, about four feet long, and with a tail longer than his body, and he has not a single tooth in his head ; consequently, although he is so large, he lives upon scarcely anything but ants, for the reason, of course, that they are so easily swallowed. Other animals, both harmless and wild, are so nu- merous in Brazil that it would be a difficult matter to even mention them all. First of all is the formidable jaguar or South Ameri- can tiger; then there are the tiger-cat, the puma, the red wolf, and the Brazilian fox, or wild dog. Savage as the tiger must be, he seldom attacks man unless in self-defence, for the forests in which he prowls are so well supplied with game that he has rarely any occasion to lack food. If, however, the animal has once tasted human blood, he remains ever after a very dan- gerous enemy, because the memory of it is so pleasant to him that he always prefers it to any other. The name given by the Indians to this man-eating tiger is cehcido, and brave as travellers and hunters ought to be, the sight of one of these formidable creatures is enough to make the stoutest heart quail. I 130 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. A traveller once said that the only time he remembered ever feeling really terrified was on one occasion when he was perched at the top of a large tree, at the foot of which lay a huge tiger with open jaws, ready to devour him the moment he descended. Fortunately the animal grew tired of waiting, so decided to seek a meal else- where, otherwise we should never have heard of either him or the traveller. It is said that if a white man in TIIE GREAT ARMADILLO. company with a black man be met by a tiger, for some reason or other unknown to us, the black man will be chosen as the victim in pre- ference to his white companion. All kinds of deer also inhabit the campos, together with our friends the armadillos and ant-eaters. Monkeys are so numerous that the forests often resound with their screeches ; indeed, very many of the monkeys that come to us are brought from South America. It seems that in their own country the comical animals are caught and treasured by the natives as pets, and not only so, but they are regarded as dain- ties for the table, and are often cooked and served for dinner and supper. By a tribe called the Sacandones, the al uates, or great red monkeys, are eaten. On one 2 FIGHT BETWEEN A JAGUAR AND AN ANT-BEAR. 132 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. Some monks who once journeyed as missionaries on the shores of the Orinoco, before lying down to sleep at night used to pray for a quiet night and rest like that enjoyed by other mortals. When the Europeans first landed in the place horses were unknown ; now there are so many that they run wild on the plains, and any one who likes may have a horse of his own. It has been said, in fact, that beggars in Brazil go begging on horseback. of them being asked by a white man why they did so, he replied, “Our ancestors killed and ate their enemies; but since the Spaniards, who are the strongest, have come, they do not allow us to continue this custom, so we eat these little men of the woods instead, whose flesh is quite as good/' Not only, though, do the forests resound with the monkey-calls, but with the cries of all the other animals. About the same hour of the night they all raise their voices together, and fill the forest with a very loud chorus. A JAGUAR. WILD ANIMALS IN BUAZlL. 133 Fishermen ride into the water to cast their nets ; bird-catchers are generally seen on horseback, galloping along with a noose at the end of a pole, to throw over the birds; so that if all this be true, horses must be indeed very plentiful. There are also large numbers of oxen and sheep. Of course the birds of Brazil, as we well know, are famous for their beauty ; numbers of them, dressed in red, green, and blue feathers, chatter among the branches, just as they did when Pizarro and his friends made their appearance amongst them. We all remember the story of our good Saxon GLIMPSES OP SOUTH AMERICA. 134 King Edgar of old, who, instead of taking money from the kings of Scotland and Wales, whom he conquered, ordered them to send hunters into the woods to kill the wolves, who did so much mischief in England, so that at last all the wolves were destroyed, and the people were able to sleep com- fortably in their beds at night. Well, it happened at one time in Guiana that jaguar’s abounded just in the same way, and consequently one of the governors offered a large sum of money for every jaguar’s head that was brought to him, and thus their number was greatly decreased. The pretty toucan, with its red and yellow feathers, and the thousands of humming birds, all liy about joyously among the balmy, luxuriant trees. Then, to add still further to the beauty of the pic- ture, the gayest of but- terflies flutter among the flowers, none prettier than those that have sky-blue wings, glittering like silver. Negroes are sent out with nets, fastened to the end of long poles, to catch these butterflies ; and they are also provided with baskets for the flowers which they gather. HUMMING- BIRD AND NEST. WILD ANIMALS IN BRAZIL. 135 Ollier families of the insect tribe in South America are quite as well worthy of our notice as the lovely butterflies. The ants, and wasps, and bees may not be as brilliant in colour, but their little bodies are quite as HUMMING DIED, beautifully made, and very wonderful are their ways. Little as they are, some of them are dreaded by men and animals almost as much as the large fierce forest beasts. The ants called the ecitons are certainly not desirable companions for a traveller to meet. On the 1-36 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. banks of the Amazon they are often seen travelling in deuse columns of countless thousands through the path- ways of the forest. There are two kinds of them, which resemble each other so closely that it requires attentive examination to distinguish them, and yet, though moving in the same woods and often crossing each other's tracks, their armies never unite. Among both of them there are dwarfs not more than one-fifth of an inch in length, with small heads and jaws, and there are also giants half-an-inch in length, with very large heads and jaws, all belonging to the same brood. The first intimation to the Indian that the tiresome little creatures are near him is a twittering and restless movement among some birds called ant- thrushes. If, on hearing this sound, he should attempt to go any further, he it sure to come to grief and find himself suddenly attacked by the minute savage biters. They swarm up his legs, each one driving its pincer-like jaws into his skin, and stinging with all its might. When they have once got hold of the poor fellow the only thing he can do is to pluck the insects off one by one, very likely in doing so pulling them in two, and leaving their heads and jaws sticking in his flesh, unless, of course, he has had at first the good sense to run away from them. They are very fond of attacking wasps' nests, which are sometimes built on low shrubs. They succeed in cutting the nest completely to tatters in their search for the newly-hatched little wasps, and in carrying off their treasure it is quite amusing to see how sensibly they divide their loads. The dwarfs take the small pieces and the giants the heavy portions. Still it is not a case of HANGING WASP’S NEST. 138 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. all work and no play, even with these industrious little insects. They are often to be seen indulging in what appears to be a real fit of idleness. They walk slowly about, gently brushing each other's limbs with their feet ; but what is the most comical sight is to see them clean each other. An ant stretches out first one leg and then another to be brushed and washed by one of its com- panions, who accomplishes the task by passing the leg between its jaws, and then finishing the business by giving the limbs a friendly wipe. Perhaps all this amusement, or whatever it may be, is as necessary to the busy little insects as a good game of cricket or blindman's-buff is to the girls and boys we know after a hard day's work at sums and geography, or Greek and Latin. At any rate, after a rest such as this the little creatures are quite ready to bite the next traveller who may happen to come in their way. Another insect pest is a little fly, numbers of which follow canoes down the river, looking like so many thin clouds of smoke. They are each supplied with two little horny lancets, which they force into the skin in order to extract the blood ; but there are so many of these tiresome insects in South America that it would be im- possible to name them all. In addition to all the other animals it has been found that at one time immense creatures larger than elephants existed in the so-called New World. As a proof of this fact, bones of them have been dug out of the earth or found in caves ; indeed, a skeleton of the Megatherium [a great beast , as its name signifies) is to be seen in the British Museum by any of us who care to pay it a visit. It is impossible to judge of its exact shape from its skeleton only, but it WILD ANIMALS IN BRAZIL. 139 certainly must have been larger than any animal we have living now. Its immense thigh-bone was three times as thick as that of the largest elephant, and its fore-foot was three feet in length. Its whole length was eighteen feet ; it had a small head, long neck, very large body, and an enormous tail. In its nature it seems to have resembled the sloth ; its teeth grew in the same manner, and it lived upon vegetarian instead of upon animal food. It moved about, too, very slowly and heavily, although it was so power- ful that it tore down trees as it passed along, or dug them up by their roots. Another animal, called the Mylodon, also existed in those ancient forests, smaller than the Megatherium, but very much like it in many respects. The remains, too, of a very large monkey have been found. Indeed, it is very evident that long before the time of the Spaniards, or even of the very oldest Incas, a large portion of the world was inhabited by people and animals of which we shall probably never know any- thing. CHAPTER XII. GUrANA. the north of the large province of Brazil lies a small country which, if we be- lieve everything we are told by travellers, is like a swampy forest full of snakes, alligators, and tigers, and where the savages delight in eating ant-paste. Other travellers tell us of its beauty; how magnifi- cent are its trees and flowers, and that plants of different kinds grow in such profusion that they spring up not from the ground only, but from rocks, and stones, and from the trunks of trees. It may be that these plants are so anxious to help to adorn the place, or perhaps to know what is going on in the world around, that they take root and start up in strange places, where no one expects to see them, because they can find no room elsewhere. Even the water in some places is covered with plants and flowers, so that it has the appearance of a lovely carpet. Indeed, it is no doubt owing to the great GUIANA. 141 moisture of the region that trees and plants grow in such abundance ; for, as we know, it is useless to look for lovely flowers or noble trees in the dry, arid soil of deserts. In Guiana are large tracts of land called savannahs, which have become marshy by the overflowing of rivers. Once every year, it seems, the rain continues for so long a time that all the rivers overflow, and the shrubs and trees look almost as if they were floating in water. As we are told was the case in the old Bible days, when Noah made his wonderful ark, the tops of high trees at such times are converted into places of refuge, and not only men but animals are seen perched aloft among the branches, waiting patiently until the ground is dry again, so that they can wander about happily in search of their prey. The native Indians think no more about these inun- dations than we should about a very heavy snow-storm or thunder-storm. They leisurely fix their hammocks on the top branch of some very high tree, and there they sleep as comfortably as we should on the softest of feather-beds. No wonder that in times gone by the sight of a spot so lovely made foreign visitors imagine that at last they had found the long-talked-of Land of Gold , or El-dorado , as it was called ; for in addition to the rich foliage and gay flowers, a number of savages were to be seen dressed in what looked very much like real gold. The fact was, the Indians had first covered their bodies with turtle fat, and had then stuck on spangles of mica, which presented a very gay, glittering appear- ance. SIR WALTER RALEIGH. GUIANA. 1 4*‘3 It was in the reign of Queen Elizabeth that so many visitors set out in search of the golden country, all anxious to be the first to take the news to their sovereign that the wonderful place had been found. Among the rest was the brave and gallant Sir AY alter Kaleigh, who, as we well know, once dis- tinguished himself by throwing off his crimson velvet cloak and spreading it on the muddy pavement for his queen to step upon, rather than that she should soil her dainty shoes. Of course, after that day the queen treated him so graciously that he wanted to do some still nobler deed to prove himself a loyal subject. The doing of one kind action generally leads to another ; it is like the first taste of some delicious fruit, which creates a longing for more ; so Sir Walter set out in search of the Golden Land. It was all for no use, however ; the Spaniards, who were already on the spot, would not let him land, and he had to return home again no richer than when he started. Disappointed, of course, he was, we may be sure ; for it was reported that some descendants of the good Manco, the founder of the Incas, hearing that greater wealth was to be found in Guiana than even in Peru or Mexico, had left their own country and were living near a lake called Parima, where immense quantities of gold were to be found. On the banks of this lake it was said that a city stood, the houses of which were covered with plates of gold, and that in the royal palace, not only was every article imaginable made of gold, but that the king and princes had gold-dust sprinkled over their bodies, . so that they were actually clothed in gol 1. 114 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AME11ICA. Costly as such a dress might be, it could not have been a very comfortable sleeping* garment ; so the princes used to wash off all the gold every evening, and were supplied with a new suit every morning. This comical tale originated very likely from the oil and mica dresses of which we have heard. A SUGAR FACTORY. After all this, we don't wonder that Guiana should become a bone of contention among the different visitors who found their way into it. After Queen Elizabeth's death, Sir Walter Raleigh was sent out again to Guiana, where, he said, he felt sure here was a very rich gold mine. GUIANA. 145 He sailed out with a number of ships as far as the great river Orinoco, taking with him his eldest son, who was as pleased as his father at the idea of finding wealth for their country. The second attempt was, however, little more success- A VILLAGE IN FRENCH GUIANA. f ul than the first ; all they did was to destroy a Spanish town, and in doing that the boy was killed. Poor Raleigh did not live long afterwards. The Spanish Government complained to James about their town being destroyed, and he, by way of avoiding a 116 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. quarrel with Spain, ordered the brave adventurer to be executed. After that, some Dutchmen were the first settlers we hear of in Guiana, and for a time they had a very pleasant time on the banks of the river Pomeroon. But before long the Spaniards, who evidently had the idea that no nation had so great a right to any part of South America as they had, quarrelled with the Dutchmen, and took their homes from them. Then the French tried what they could do to secure both land and riches for themselves, and the English did the same, until at last the whole country was divided into four parts, of which at the present time one belongs to England, one to Holland, one to France, and one to Brazil. In British Guiana is the colony of Demerara ; indeed, the whole of British Guiana is sometimes called Deme- rara. It is from Demerara that a great deal of the sugar we use is sent, and hundreds of negroes and Indians are employed there working in the large sugar plantations. Most of these plantations are situated near the banks of the principal rivers, which, as we hear, at certain times of the year are so swollen with the heavy rains that they overflow ; consequently the negroes build high dams on both sides of the plantations, to protect them from being w r ashed away, because on the other side are the swanky savannahs. George Town is the capital of British Guiana, and consists of two or three streets, and not very far away is to be seen what is known as the Kaietur Fall, which is an immense cataract formed by a stream of water falling over a tremendous cliff 822 feet high. KAIETUR FALLS. 14S GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMEPICA. There are many cataracts in different parts of America, but this Kaietur Fall is the highest of those in Guiana. As in all South American towns in which settle- ments are made by civilised foreigners, the negroes and dark-coloured natives live in districts of their own, quite distinct from those occupied by the white people. NEGRESS OF FRENCH GUIANA (SHOWING THE “MADRAS”). When at the very first the English people made their home in Guiana, the negroes took no trouble to adorn themselves with dress of any kind, but would wander about doing their daily work almost naked. The masters and mistresses who employed them to do certain kinds of work insisted, therefore, that cloth- ing should be worn by their servants, and in order to reconcile them to the new custom, would frequently milANA. 149 give them old clothes of their own that they had done wearing. Very comical it was sometimes to see the black women especially dressed in the garments with which they had been presented. The novelty of their appear- ance seemed at first only to amuse them, but by degrees, as the freshness of the affair wore away, they began to show the usual signs of womanly vanity, aud would imitate the manners and appearance of their mis- tresses, imagining, no doubt, that they had succeeded in making themselves quite as attractive as any white lady. Not only the women but the black men also looked very ludicrous dressed up in their masters' old clothes. The common dress, how- ever, now generally worn by NEGRESSES OF DUTCII GUIANA. 150 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. the negresses and mulatto women is such as that in which we now see these dark ladies attired. Their dress consists of a piece of stuff or muslin known by the name of gaule, folded gracefully round the body ; and the peculiar head-dress worn by them consists of a handkerchief fastened turban-fashion round the head. This Madras, as it is called, is so universally adopted by the natives of Guiana that it may almost be re- garded as a national peculiarity, and yellow is the colour usually chosen for it — the colour of gold or of the sun — while in others are united all the colours of the rainbow, woven into gaudy and elaborate patterns. A casual observer might imagine that there was but one method of arranging this gay head-dress, but in reality almost every wearer adopts a different style. The policeman puts on his turban one way, a soldier another, and ladies have so many different methods that it would be a very long time before we could under- stand them all. The fact is, indeed, they arrange their Madras to suit the temper they happen to be in at the time. If they are feeling very sad, they give it a certain twist, which means “ I am very miserable ; ” if they are joyous, the handkerchief assumes another shape, which means “ Look how happy I am ; ” if they have been offended, another form is given to it, meant to imply u I am very angry.” So that these head-dresses are really very useful articles of attire, as well as being what their owners consider them, exceedingly ornamental. The natives of Guiana, like the rest of the South American Indians, are, although ignorant and savage, in some respects both clever and ingenious; and as to GUIANA. 151 bravery, like most other Indian tribes, they would never think of turning* their back upon an enemy, or of trying to escape pain. It once was the custom among one of their tribes, called the Caribs, of whom not very many now remain, that when a captain was chosen, in order to prove his powers of endurance he was for a certain time exposed to a mass of biting insects. His suffering in consequence was intense ; but if he bore it bravely, he was chosen as captain, and the rest of his tribe laid at his feet their bows and arrows, to show that they would henceforth obey his com- mands. They believe that all created things came from the branch of a silk cotton tree, cut down by the Great Creator, excepting the white men, who sprang from the chips of a tree ; they therefore are of little value. They believe also that at one time there was some- where a very large tree on which grew every kind of flower and fruit that has ever been known, and that all the flowers and fruit we have now came originally from that large tree. The tree must have been gigantic; for they say that in the middle of it was a large reservoir of water, in which were all the fishes, and that one day a mis- chievous monkey amused himself by letting loose the water, and that consequently the world was flooded. The love of finery is as strong in them as it was in their ancestors. Most of the Carib women wear, just above the knee, and above the ankle of each leg, a tight cotton strap painted red. This strap is put on in child- hood, and as the girl grows is only taken off to be replaced by a new one; the result is that their legs A CARIE INDIAN GUIANA. 153 become ugly and unnatural, though the women them- selves are very proud of them. Another strange custom of theirs is to make a pin- cushion of their lower lip, by sticking into it two or three pins, which when they want to use, they take out, and then put them back into the same place. At one time, before they could get pins, they used thorns for the purpose instead. The cloth worn round the waist by the men is sometimes long enough to be thrown over the shoulder, and made to hang gracefully down the back. In that case it is often ornamented with tassels, the owner at the same time having his body painted gaudily, and wearing on his head a crown of feathers, so that in his own estimation at any rate his appearance is truly magnificent. When we hear that these Caribs at one time were cannibals, and used to eat their enemies, we can't feel very sorry that now they have become both less power- ful and less numerous. There are to be found on this coast great numbers of turtles, which as an article of food the natives regard as a very great delicacy. A very favourite occupation of theirs is for a number of them to set out with their steel-pointed arrows to the edge of the water, there to lie in wait for turtles. They are so accustomed to the business that, without waiting for the fish to make its appearance, they can tell by the appearance of the water the exact spot where one is quietly paddling along, and often shoot their arrows quite a long way out exactly on the turtle's shell. By means of a long piece of twine fastened to the arrow the Indian manages to draw the animal to shore. 154 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA, when, if it should not be quite dead, he strikes it with a second arrow. The turtle pools abound sometimes with ugly red leeches, which fasten on the legs of the fisher- men, much to their annoyance. SHOOTING TURTLES. Better still, however, than the turtles themselves are their eggs; and as each turtle lays about 120 eggs, there are plenty of them to be found, to say nothing about a great many that are not found by the fishermen owing to their being laid in places where they are not looked for. The turtles lay their eggs by night, leaving the GUIANA. 155 water in vast crowds when nothing disturbs them, and crawling to a high part of the shore. With their broad webbed paws they dig deep holes in the fine sand. One turtle goes first, and after making a pit about three feet deep, lays its eggs and covers them with sand. Another then goes, and lays its eggs on the top of those of its companion, a third does the same, and so on, until the pit is full. For a Avhole body of turtles to lay their eggs in this way it takes fourteen or fifteen days, and when all have done, the space where they have been at work (called by the Brazilians taboliero ) is distinguishable from the rest of the ground only by the sand having a rather rougher appearance than usual. After having laid their eggs they waddle back to the MASIIING TURTLE’S EGGS. 156 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. river, looking, when there is a great multitude of them, like a great black cloud moving along the sands ; and down they tumble head first into the water. The eggs are especially valuable on account of the oil that is extracted from them, and which is used in different parts of the country for lighting, for frying fish, and other purposes. First of all, the eggs, which are quite round, have a leathery shell, and are a little larger than a hen's egg, are thrown into a large tub, or perhaps an empty canoe, and are mashed with wooden prongs. Or, instead of that, sometimes naked Indians and children jump into the mass and tread it down, besmear- ing themselves with yolk, and making a scene anything but pleasant. The beating process finished, water is poured over the mass, and it is left for a few hours to be heated by the sun, when the oil separates and rises to the surface. With long spoons, made by tying large mussel shells to the end of rods, the floating oil is then skimmed off, and purified over the fire in copper kettles, when it is ready for use. The Indians say that at one time the waters teemed as thickly with turtles as the air does now with mosquitoes, in that part of the world ; but, owing to so much oil being made from the eggs, and also owing to a great many of the newly hatched young ones being eaten by vultures and alligators, there are not nearly so many left as there used to be. The Arawaks are another tribe in Guiana, who seem to be a gentler race altogether than the Caribs, and who still look back with horror to the time when the GUIANA. 157 Spaniards landed on their coast, and hunted their fore- fathers through the forests. They are very skilful in the use of the bow and arrow, and in order to make their arrows more des- tructive, many Indians adopt the plan of tipping the points with poison. They try to make strangers believe that the poison is made from the fangs of venomous snakes, because the effect produced by the poison is very much like a snake bite ; besides which, the Indians are not very scrupulous about speaking the truth. The fact is they dip the arrows into a licpiid called wourali, a solution of the bark of a tree, and also beard the points, so that they are sure to adhere to the wounds. To prove how deadly the poison must be, a negro woman whose skin had only been grazed by one of the arrows died almost immediately afterwards, and even her infant too took the poison from her and died. For killing small animals, or when the Indians wish to pounce upon their enemies secretly, instead of using the large poisoned arrows they make small arrows, one end of which they tip with poison, and round the other end they wind a tuft of cotton. They then make a blow-pipe of a hollow reed, through which the small poisoned arrow is sent with so great a force, and with so direct an aim, that it seldom fails to effect certain death. An Indian said once to one of our countrymen, “ The blow-pipe is our gun, and the poisoned arrow is to us powder and shot.” Another kind of arrow used by the hunters, instead of being sharply pointed at the end, has a round head about as thick as a chestnut. Those of this description 158 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. are used when parrots, little monkeys, or animals that are wanted to be captured alive, are pursued, because such a weapon merely stuns without killing. The Indians have many quarrels among themselves and with the negroes who dwell near them, in addition to all the fighting that has taken place between their conquerors, the Spaniards, and themselves ; so that although some of their weapons are very simple, they have learnt well how to defend themselves. Another weapon formerly used by the Arawaks was a formidable-looking affair called a sapakana. It con- sisted of a broad blade of heavy hard wood, thick in the middle but with sharp edges. The handle had cotton tied tightly round it, to enable the holder to have a firm grasp of it, and it was also made secure by having a loop of strong cotton fastened to it, which was slipped over the wrist of its owner. These sapakanas were sometimes so large that both hands were required to hold them. A blow from one of them, therefore, must have been terrible. They are not often made for use now, but only as objects of curiosity. Another Guianian tribe, called the Waraus, or Guaranos, though not perhaps so wild and warlike as the Caribs, are in some respects more savage and uncivilised. They are stout, happy, good-natured creatures, but very dirty and slovenly, and wear scarcely any cloth- ing. It is doubtful whether they would do work of any kind if they could possibly help it ; but as they know they would die without food, they catch a great many fish by shooting at them, or sometimes by poisoning the W i SHOOTING 1-TSH. 160 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. water, and upon these they live, in addition to a few vegetables which they cultivate. Sir Walter Raleigh, it seems, made friends with a few of the Waraus. He wrote some books of his travels once when he was in prison, and in one of them he mentions the Tivitasas — another name for the Waraus — and calls them a goodly people and very valiant. In the dry summer-time they build their houses on the ground, but in winter they mount aloft and make dwellings in the high trees, on account of the heavy rains which they have between May and September. Another tribe of Indians build houses in the trees, to avoid, not the water, but the tiresome mosquitoes that infest that part of the country. Whole villages of these houses built in the trees may sometimes be seen. In spite of the character they have won for them- selves of being idle, there must be a few workers amongst them to accomplish all the work we hear of their doing. There are some very large canoes made by them, called woihakas, which they construct, not only for their own use, but for other tribes, or even for settlers from other countries. Some of these canoes will hold fifty persons. They are fifty feet long and six feet broad, and if the makers of them were inclined so to do, they might make quite a little fortune for themselves ; but instead of doing that, the poor creatures, who know no better, very quickly squander all they gain, until hunger reminds them that they must return to their canoe-building. Living as they do, it is doubtful whether these poor Waraus could be taught to think and feel differently. Their lives are spent in seeking food to satisfy their hun- ger, and in contriving the rude habitations which they GUIANA. 161 make to shelter their almost naked bodies from the wind and rain. They are surrounded with little that is re- fining- and elevating, excepting of course the broad blue sky, the sun and stars, the mighty sea, and the trees and flowers, all of which are silent teachers to every human being who gazes upon them, if only the eyes of the mind are not blinded, for then, of course, the lessons they teach cannot be read distinctly ; and what we hear of the religion of these poor savages certainly proves to us that they are miserably ignorant, and need all the pity and help that good men can give them. For many years English missionaries have laboured in British Guiana, and are still doing all they can to teach the Indians, and also the negroes, who once were slaves there. One of these missionaries who went to Guiana built himself a hut on the banks of the river Pomeroon. Following the example of the Indians, he did not make his bed on the ground, but slung a hammock across the ceiling of the hut, to escape being bitten by insects or poisonous snakes ; and there for some time his only companion was a little negro boy, whom he had easily persuaded to live with him, and who helped him to cook and wash. Of course he took care to teach the little fellow to read and write, and would gladly have taught the child’s father also ; but it was no easy work the missionaries took upon themselves when they went amongst the natives of the new land of gold and diamonds. The missionaries were white men, and so also were the invaders, the Spaniards, consequently all white men alike were hated; indeed they were almost as much in danger of losing their lives among these wild men as if K 162 GLIMPSES OF SOUTH AMERICA. they had ventured into the forests where the jaguars went prowling about. One day, as the missionary sat in his hut, he saw a number of Indians paddling their canoes down the river, and he thought if they would only come near his hut he would talk to them ; but although they did not attempt to do him any harm — perhaps because they saw what friends he and the negro boy were — they went as far away from him as they could. Another day, however, a dreadful thunder-storm came on, such a thunder-storm as we in England can scarcely imagine, for we never have any so tremendous as they are in South America ; and the missionary invited some Indians who were overtaken in it to take shelter in his hut. It might be that they were afraid of the thunder, imagining, as some of them do, that it was the voice of one of their gods expressing his anger towards them. At all events, they accepted the invitation, and while the thunder was rolling and the lightning flashing outside, the missionary took the opportunity of telling them that if they were willing to listen to him he could teach them many things they had never heard before, and which they would be much better and happier for knowing. They said they would like to be taught by him, and if their chief gave his permission they would send their children to his school, and they themselves would go to his chapel and hear him preach. On hearing this the good missionary said he would pay a visit to the chief ; so he paddled down the river in his canoe to the hut where they said the chief lived, and had a srood lon find its way into thousands of homes where pretty, simple melodies for children are desired. Cassell <0 Company , Limited , Ludgate Hill , London. Selections from Cassell & Company s Publications. I A Moonbeam Tangle. Original Fairy Tales. By . Sidney Shadbolt. With numerous Illustrations. Cloth, 3s. 6d. Elfie under the Sea , and other Stories. By E. L. P. With Full-page Illustrations. Crown 4to, paper boards, price 3s. 6d. The Favorite Album of Fun and Fancy, illus- trated. Crown 4to, 3s. 6d. (From Little Hinges.) Stories of Girlhood; or , the Brook and the River. By Sarah Doudney. Cloth, gilt edges, 5 s. Truth Will Out. By Jeanie Hering. Cloth, 3s. 6d. Little Hinges. By M. Bon avia Hunt. Illustrated by M. Ellen Edwards. Cloth gilt, 2s. 6d. Cassell .£• Company , Limited, Lndgate Hill , London. 12 Selections from Cassell <£• Company's Publications. Cassell’s Half-Crown Story Books. By Popular Authors, handsomely illustrated throughout. Cloth, gilt, 2 s. 6d. each. P 'en’s P erplexities . By M. B. Hunt. Illustrated. 2 s. 6d. Margarets Enemy . By the Author of “Little Hinges.” &c. Illustrated. 2 s. 6d. (From Pen's Perplexities .) Little Empress Joan . ByM. B. Hunt. Illustrated. 2 s. 6d. Golden Days. ByjEANiE Hering. New Edition. 2 s. 6d. 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