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Digitized by tine Internet Arcliive 
 
 in 2010 witli funding from 
 
 Researcli Library, Tine Getty Researcli Institute 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/criticalreviewofOOralp 
 
CRITICAL REVIEW 
 
 OF THE 
 
 PUBLIC BUILDINGS, STATUES, 
 
 AND 
 
 ORNAMENTS. 
 
 IN AND ABOUT 
 
 LONDON AND WESTMINSTER. 
 
 ORIGINALLY WRITTEN BT 
 
 RALPH, Architect, 
 
 And now Reprinted with very Large Additions. 
 
 The whole being digefted into a Six Days Tour, in 
 which every Thing worthy the Attention of the ju- 
 dicious Enquirer, is pointed out and defcribed. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 Printed for John Wallis, at Yorick's Head, 
 Ludgate-street. 1783. 
 
 Of whom may be had. The moft accurate Plans of 
 London, and its Environs. 
 
ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 TH E celebrity of the metropolis of the 
 Britifii empire, and that natural wifli 
 which the intelligent among its inhabitants 
 mult have to be acquainted with the remark- 
 able things it contains, have given encou- 
 ragement to very many publications, intended 
 to anfwer the purpofe of information con- 
 cerning them. Thofe who have the oppor- 
 tunity of confulting many of thefe, need not 
 be told, tkat they confift, for the moft part, 
 of compilations, extraded without judgment 
 or enquiry, from a few original writers ; care 
 being taken, at the fame time, to conceal the 
 obligation, becaufe a difclofure of the theft 
 would have fliewn too effectually of what 
 flireds and patches they are compofed. The 
 original author of this work was not one of 
 this pilfering fraternity, and the editor, who 
 A 2 now 
 
iv ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 now rcpiibllfhes it with more than an equa 
 quantity of additions, is ambitious Co follow 
 his example. Whether he has at all fuc- 
 cceded in taking up the pen of fo great a 
 mailer, mult be left to die judgment of that 
 publie for whofe ufe it was done; but there 
 are fome things of which even he who is the 
 aftor, is enabled to judge and fpeak with 
 propriety. On this account he affures the 
 world, that he has ftriclly attended to things, 
 and not to men ; and is, therefore, perfeBly 
 confcious of having afted with the moft abfo- 
 lute impartiality. He has been careful to 
 vifit every place, or thing, treated of. This, 
 in reality, is fo much the duty of a writer of 
 a book of this kind, that many readers will, 
 perhaps, wonder to find it mentioned here ; 
 yet there are many others who, having been | 
 difappointed by modern books of the fort 
 we have defcribed, will be ready to allow, 
 that it is an advantage not only eftimable but 
 fcarce. It would not, perhaps, be modefl to 
 fpeak much in commendation of the merit of 
 . the original review ; and to tliofe who have 
 penetr'ation enough to diflinguifli the p'ro- 
 duBions of genius, attended by delicacy of 
 
 tafte, 
 
A D \' E R T I S E M EXT. v 
 
 afte, and livelinefs of wit, it will not be ne- 
 xlFaiy. Several confiderable defecls in va- 
 "ious parts of the town, which were cenfurcd 
 n- our author, have fince been attended to 
 iiid remedied ; large additions have been 
 i-nade on all fides, and no fmall number of 
 vvorks of merit and importance have appeared, 
 particularly in Weflminiler-abbey. Thefe 
 have been carefully attended to. and the plan 
 itfelf, in fome meafure, enlarged, by admit- 
 ting fuch hiftorical accounts as appeared to be 
 interefting or neceffary. The preface, or 
 eifay, is entirely written by Ralph, and the 
 other parts of his work are dillinguifiied by 
 inverted commas. 
 
 A3 PRE- 
 
PREFACE, 
 
 BEING AM 
 
 E S 
 
 SAY ON TASTE. 
 
 HAT we underftand by Tafte, is the 
 peculiar relifli that we feel for any 
 agreeable objea; and is more or lefs perfed, 
 according to the degree of judgment we em- ' 
 ploy in diainguiHiing its beauties. It ought 
 always to be founded on truth, or veri-fimi- 
 -litude, at leaft; but we often find it to be 
 only the child of opinion, or the mere refult 
 of accident. 
 
 True tafte is not to be acquired without 
 infinite toil and ftudy, and we are generally 
 too indolent to accept of an advantage on 
 fuch terms. This is the real occafion why a 
 falfe one is fo apt to prevail; and, on a divi- 
 fion of mankind, would num.ber three to one 
 A 4 i»> 
 
viii PREFACE. 
 
 in its own favour. All men are fond of be- 
 ing eftecmed witty, wife, or learned; but 
 they are willing to procure their reputation 
 as eafily as poffible. 
 
 They have fenfc enough to obferve, how 
 cheaply this is acquired by the humour of 
 fafliion, to the prejudice of true underftand- 
 ing and genuine politenefs ; and we are zeal- 
 ous in promoting the follies we intend to prac- 
 tife. Like men of much ambition and narrow 
 fortune, we counterfeit the gaiety we can 
 never purchafe; and frugally flatter ourfelves, 
 that our tinfel will be miftaken for the real 
 gold it^was intended to imitate. 
 
 I am forry to fay, it is in my power to ap- 
 peal to numberlefs fa6ls for the truth of this 
 affertion. Nothing is fo common as the affec- 
 tation of tafle. and hardly any thing is fo feldom 
 found as the reality. Indeed, the misfortune 
 is infeflious, and a variety of incidents agree 
 to make it almoft univerfal. Bad principles of 
 education when young ; an ill choice of ac- 
 quaintance, at entering into the world; the ig- 
 norance of thofe that undertake to inform us; 
 and continual prejudices of our ov;n. But 
 the frequency or confirmation of an evil, 
 
 fhould 
 
PREFACE. ix 
 
 fliould never difcourage us from endeavour- 
 ing to furmount it ; and even if it be grown 
 quite defperate, there is the more necefTity 
 for oppofing it with the greater vigour. 
 
 There is fo much depends on a true taile, 
 with regrard to elegance, and even to morali- 
 ty, that I cannot refift the temptation of 
 throwing in my mite to the publick, and re- 
 commending, to the utmoft of my power, what 
 I judge to be of fo much advantage. The 
 defign of fcliools, the ufe^of univerfities, the 
 benefit of converfation, fliould all center in 
 this great point; and no one can properly be. 
 ftiled a gentleman, who has not made ufe of 
 every opportunity to enrich his own capacity, 
 and fettle the elements of tafte, which he may 
 improve at leifure. There are numbers of 
 pcrfons, Vi^ho may juftly claim reputation for 
 a fmgle excellence, that in all others are de- 
 fe6live and inconfiderable, merely for the want 
 of this general accomplifhment. A good 
 tafte is the heightener of every fcience, and 
 the polifli of every virtue; it is the friend of 
 fociety, and the guide to knowledge ; it is 
 the improvement of pleafure, and the tcft of 
 merit. By this we enlarge the circle of en- 
 A 5 joymcut, 
 
X PREFACE. 
 
 joymcnt, and refine upon happincfs. It en- 
 ables us to diflinguifli beauty wherever we 
 lind it, and to deleft error in all its difguifci-v 
 It obliges us to behave with decency and ele- 
 gance, and quickens our attention to the 
 good qualities of others. In a word, it is the 
 alfemblage of all propriety, and the center 
 ofa 11 that is amiable. 
 
 Truth and beauty include all excellence; 
 and, together with their oppofitcs, are the 
 only objefts for the exercife of our ccnfure 
 or admiration. The rightly difthiguifliing of 
 them is the proof of a good taRe, and what 
 naturally leads to the perfe6lion of judgment 
 and apprehenficn. Truth fhould be confi- 
 dered as the defign in painting, and beauty 
 the colouring and decoration. Falfehood and 
 deformity are the contrails of the groupe, 
 and to be able to detctl the one, we fhould be 
 capable of admiring the other. The mind, 
 v/hich is always employed in contemplating 
 the firft, or condemning the laft, will be par- 
 tial in its knowledge, and unjuft in its deci- 
 fion. Prejudice, on either fide, is foreign to 
 a good talle> and yet, through the frailty of 
 
 human 
 
P R E F A C E. XI 
 
 haman nature, both may meet in the fame 
 perfon together. 
 
 To acquire tJiat excellenGC perfediy, there- 
 fore, we muft be impartial in our enquiry, and 
 cool in our judgment; quick to apprehend, 
 and ready to determine what is an error, and 
 wliat a beauty ; carefully examining when we 
 condemn if the defe8: is not in our mind; 
 and when we praife, whether we truly un- 
 derftand the obje6l of our approbation* 
 Many a miftake has been made by not ob- 
 ferving this rule. Beauties have been cen- 
 fured for want of underftanding, and others 
 extolled becaufe in the mafque of truth. 
 
 To reduce thefe hints into practice, I would 
 again obferve, that the influence of a good, 
 tafte is to be extended much farther than is 
 generally imagined. It is not confined only 
 to writings of every kind, but intimately re- 
 gards painting and fculpture; comprehends 
 the whole circle of civility and good man- 
 ners, and" regulates life and condu6l, as well 
 as theory and fpeculation. In every one of 
 thefe relations, it is always to be obfcrved both 
 in judging and aBing. For want of it, in ail^ 
 we fee daily a thoufand abfurdities that polite- 
 A 6 nefs. 
 
xii PREFACE. 
 
 nefs would be afhamed of, and reafon con- 
 demn; pertnefs paffes for wit; dulnefsfor de- 
 corum; lewdncfs for humour; diffimulatiort 
 for honour; and vanity for every accomplifh- 
 ment. 
 
 It is hard to determine, whether there be an 
 internal difference in the efl'ence of fouls, or 
 whether they elxert themfelves more or lefs 
 vigoroufly, in proportion to the delicacy of 
 the organs of the body they inform, or whe- 
 ther the force of education, habit, or fociety 
 gives a faperior turn to the genius that pof- 
 felfes thcfe advantages. 
 
 It is certain, there is a wide difference in 
 men ; and, whatever is the caufe, fome are 
 diftinguidicd by fo many perfcQ.ions, as al- 
 moll elevate them above the rank of their 
 fellow-creatures, and fet thern at an awful 
 dif^ance, for the vulgar of mankind to won- 
 der at. 
 
 But how great foever is the capacity, in- 
 finite toil and labour are neceflary to form it 
 into beauty and regularity. So many diffi- 
 culties are to be furmounted, fo many morti- 
 fications arc to be endured, and fuch a laby- 
 rinth of knowledge is to be flruggled through, 
 
 that, 
 
PREFACE. xiii 
 
 that, were not ambition to prompt us, and 
 vanity to flatter, fcarce one in a thoufand 
 would have the courage to undertake fo ar- 
 duous a tafk ; and not one in five hundred of 
 them have the refolution, or addrefs, to a.c- 
 complifh the end they had in view. The very 
 profpeQ would frighten us from attempting it; 
 either paflion, or indolence, would hinder our 
 attaining it. But very few arrive even at the 
 point they propofed. None can fay they 
 have finidied their journey; knowledge is 
 infinite, and when mortality has fpun out its 
 latcft thread in the purfuit, we look forward 
 with aftonifliment at the unbounded fcene 
 before us, and backward with contempt at, 
 the little portion our whole lives could com- 
 pafs. 
 
 Nature feems to have done as much for us 
 as we can do for ourfelves, and the utmoft 
 of our endeavours can do little more than 
 regulate and polifli the h nts that arife from 
 her. What is learning, but a colleSion of 
 that knowledge which nature had infpired? 
 And what politenefs, but a refinement on 
 thofe plcafures which fhe has dilated ? Let 
 us look upon the grave and ferious among 
 
 tlie 
 
xiv PREFACE, 
 
 the vulgar, and we fliall fee ceconomy and 
 moralitv in miniature, and both as perfcd as 
 is needful fo their cirCumftances. Let us ob- 
 Terve the frolic and gay amongft them; their 
 pkafures are the fame as ours, and they are 
 equally attached to the decorations of ele- 
 o;ance. 
 
 Has rehned and modifli luxury a fingle en- 
 joyment that they do not admire, and per- 
 fectly imitate ? Let us purfue this thought a 
 little farther, and we fliall find our poetry^ 
 painting, ftatuary, and mufic, indulged among 
 them; and, as in their original, labouring 
 for perfection. What gathers together the 
 numerous crowds that lillcn to a wretched 
 fong in every ftreet, but the rapture which 
 poetry never fails to infpire, and that foftncfs^ 
 of heart which engages the attention, and 
 charms every faculty ? Why are their walls 
 hung with fcurvy piClures; but becaufe their 
 hearts delight in every imitation of nature, 
 and whatever they are fond of they are will- 
 ing to poffefs ? Inllead of ftatuary they have 
 images of wax, of earth, of clay, and of 
 plaifter, in abundance, made fine with paint- 
 ing and gilding; to aioue for the want of true 
 8 beauty, 
 
PREFACE, XV 
 
 beauty, and real excellency. How many of 
 them are fo incliantcd with miific, as to make 
 it the bufincls of their lives, and fometimcs 
 pra6life it with faccefs ? All, in general, bear 
 witnefs to its power, and, like Amphion's 
 flocks and ilones, are tranfported with har- 
 Hony. Such is the mechanical influence 
 that the rudeft flcetch of beauty and pleafure 
 has upon the mofl: low, uncultivated minds, 
 and fo general is the confeflion of all man- 
 kind in their favour ! 
 
 I think I may be indulged too in recom- 
 mending this thought to men of education 
 and quality. I think fuch ftudies, and fuch 
 employments, would afford them more fatks- 
 faftion than the prefent mode of diverfions, 
 and would be far more worthy of their cha- 
 raflers. Nature, it is plain, points them out 
 to their confideration, and their own flations 
 in life fliould make them their infeparable 
 companions. But inflead of that, I fpeak it 
 with great concern, there are very few who 
 have not flrove to mortify their relifh for 
 them, and done a violence to nature, in com- 
 pliment to fafhion. Gaming and horfe-races 
 are now the amufem-cnts in vogue ; ajid there 
 
 ar9- 
 
xvi PREFACE. 
 
 are few who have courage enough to declare 
 againft them, even though they are contrary 
 to their inclinations. True politcncfs feems 
 in difgrace with mankind, and it is even 
 thought very abfurd to be its advocate. 
 Where is the perfon who glories in being her 
 admirer, in (lemming the torrent of barbarifm 
 in an abandoned age, and doing juftice to 
 learning and virtue ? Where is the guardian 
 genius to merit, its nurfe, its patron, its 
 friend, its father ? Hence it is, that folly and 
 affcciation becom.e univerfal ; and elegance 
 and knoA\'Iedge are lo litde regarded. The 
 man with half a head appears as wife now, 
 as Janus of old with two. The imaginary 
 difference of ftature between the moderns and 
 the Antediluvians, is hardly more remark- 
 able, than the real diminution of the wit of 
 this age, in comparifon with that of the laft. 
 We aic quite degenerating to Lilliputians, a 
 race of dapperwits ; and there is not above a 
 hair's breadth difference between us and cur 
 leaders. If any of my readers fhould be 
 vain enough to diibelieve nie, I refer him to 
 my pupil for demonftration. In Ihort, the 
 man wiio veniures barely to recomimend a 
 
 good 
 
PREFACE. • xvii 
 
 good tafte, is gazed at as a monfler, the 
 growth of another clime, and, without quef- 
 tion, we fhould be glad of a new Don 
 Quixote, to deftroy him as an enemy to our 
 repofe. 
 
 I fliall clofe this preface with fome remarks 
 on architedure in general ; which 1 find 
 ready drawn up to my hand, in the preface 
 to a book lately publifhed under the title of 
 The Builder's Dictionary : a book which 
 contains the elements of the whole art, and 
 which it is neceffary every judge, as well as 
 artift, fhould underlland. 
 
 rArchitefture is one of thofe arts which ne- 
 ceflity has made univerfal. From the time 
 that men firft felt the inclemencies of the fea- 
 fons, it had its beginning ; and accordingly it 
 has fpread wherefoever the feverities of the 
 climate demanded flielter or fhade. It is to 
 be traced in the Indian's hut, and the Ice- 
 lander's cave ; and ftill (hews, in thofe bar- 
 barous parts of the globe, from what mean 
 original it rofe to its prefent glory. As dif- 
 trefs was the parent of it, fo convenience was 
 the firft objett it regarded. Magnificence 
 and decoration were the rcfult of fome long 
 
 refinement. 
 
xviii PREFACE, 
 
 refinement, and defigned to flatter the often- 
 tation of the owners. Politenefs is but a 
 more dehcatc term for luxury ; and was it not 
 natural for men to srow wanton with eafe and 
 affluence, all the fcienccs in general had laid 
 inaclive, nor ever darted into being. 
 
 It is eafy to conclude from hence, that 
 conveniency fhould ftill be the builder's firfl 
 view. Eveiy ftru6lure is raifed to anfwer 
 fome particular end ; and the moil obvious 
 and firaple means are always the befc to obtain 
 it. When fuch a plan as this is uniformly 
 and confiftently laid ; when all its ufes may 
 be comprehended at a hngle glance, and all 
 appear undeniably reafonable and perfe6l; 
 then the artiil is at liberty to add grandeur 
 and elegance to flrength and propriety, and 
 finifli the whole with the full fplendour of 
 beauty and grace. 
 
 By this divifion of architefture into beauty 
 and ufe, it will be demonftrable to every 
 reader, that it is partly an art, and partly a 
 fcience; the firfl is mechanical, and the laft 
 the refult of genius and fuperior underftand- 
 ing. One calls in all the aid of fancy and 
 imagination, grows poetical in defign, and 
 
 pictu- 
 
PREFACE. xlx 
 
 piclurefque in decoration ; the other lays 
 down fixed and flated rules, proceeds in the 
 fame invariable track of reafoning, and comes 
 always to the fame conclufions. Hence it 
 happens, that many an excellent workman 
 has proved himfelf a mere mechanic ; and 
 many a furprifing genius, that he was igriorant 
 of the very principles of the art he made it 
 liis profelfion to underfland. To make a 
 thorough mafter, both muft be united; for 
 the propriety of a plan is feldom attended to, 
 and feldomer underftood ; and a glaring pile 
 of beauty, without ufe, mocks the poffefibr 
 with a dream of grandeur he can never enjoy. 
 
 After this fliort introdudion, the author 
 proceeds to point out what are the true foun- 
 dations of this noble art, and begins with 
 Arithmetic, as being the ground-work of men- 
 furation, either as to extent or folidity ; as 
 beino; tlie medium of all calculation, and the 
 only road to any degree of pratiical know- 
 ledc^e in the m.athematicks. 
 
 Geometry follows in the next place, and is 
 indeed the foundation tliat ail Undents muft 
 build upon, fmce it is impoflible to attain to 
 any perfe6lion in architefture without it. 
 
 It 
 
XX PREFACE. 
 
 It is geometry that lays down all the firfl prin- 
 ciples in building, that adjufts all bearings 
 and proportions, and meafures points, an- 
 gles, and folidities. In fliort, there is no 
 being mafler of architecture, without be- 
 ing perfe^l in all the parts of geometry ; and 
 he that is fo, though he may err in decora- 
 tion, can never do the fame either in ftrength 
 or proportion. 
 
 Mafonry, or the mechanical means of raif- 
 jng perpendiculars, turning arches, erefling 
 bridges, and forming flair-cafes, is another 
 branch of this art, and mull be underftood 
 with great accuracy and readinefs, as being 
 the execution of the whole which the ftudent 
 defires to learn. 
 
 Levelling and Hydraulicks are likewife of 
 great importance to the builder; the hrft at 
 once enabling him to underftand good fitua- 
 tions, or amend them if they are otherwife; 
 and the la(t, of courfe, direcling the convey- 
 ance of water, the draining of low grounds, 
 and teaching the whole fecrcts of collecting 
 refervoirs, or afterwards employing them to 
 the belt advantage. In fhort, on thefe de- 
 pend both the neceffary ufc of the water for 
 
 family 
 
 I 
 
PREFACE. x:d' 
 
 family fupply, and alfo all the beautiful cf- 
 fefts that can refult from it in gardens, by 
 bafons, fountains, cafcades, &c. 
 
 Mechanicks is another effential in this no- 
 ble art. It is by underftanding their power 
 and effe6t, that fuch machines are contrived 
 as alone are able to raife up the heavy mate- 
 rials to buildings of any confiderable height, 
 or empty waters from a bottom, or drain a 
 level, or force them upwards, as art would 
 direft, or neceflity require. 
 
 Thefe, with the art of fketching and draw- 
 ing, are all the different branches of ftudy 
 which are neceffary to form a compleat me- 
 chanical architeft. But when he is thorough- 
 ly initiated in them all, fo as not to err either 
 in principles or praftice, if he cannot add as 
 much knowledge more of his own in their 
 ufe and application, he will be fit for nothing 
 more than the overfeer of a work, or a judge 
 of the mere methods to carry on and finilh 
 the whole. 
 
 The fcience of defigning is ftill wanting to 
 form a great mafter, or produce fuch plans 
 as would vie with the ancient beauties of 
 Greece and Rome. But if this is not in the 
 
 genius, 
 
xxii PREFACE. 
 
 genius, it is never to be learned. To be able 
 to enter into this fecret, the ftudent muft have 
 great natural parts, a noble and fruitful ima- 
 gination, a thorough infight and acquaintance 
 "vvith beauty, and judgment fedate and cool 
 enough to form a jufl and delicate tafte. 
 Without tafte, even genius itfelf wanders 
 blindfold, and fpends itfelf in vain. Ge- 
 nius is, indeed, the firft quality of the foul ; 
 but tafte muft be added, or we fliall cenfure 
 the wildernefs, infteadbf admiring the beauty; 
 we fhall be diftatisfied with the irregularity, 
 inftcad of being plcafed with the magni- 
 ficence. 
 
 But though genius cannot be learned, it 
 may be improved ; and though the gift of 
 defigning is born with a man, it may be me- 
 thodized by ftudy and obfervation. 
 
 The principal points, therefore, that the 
 defigner fhould have in view, are, firft, con- 
 venience, as has been hinted at already, and 
 then beauty and magnificence. With regard 
 to Convenience, few dirc6lions can be given, 
 fmce it means no more than contriving all the 
 requifitcs belonging to your plan, in the moft 
 clear and elegant manner, and then laying 
 
 out 
 
PREFACE. xxili 
 
 out the fpace they are to be ranged in whh 
 the moft perfe6l order and oeconomy. As 
 to beauty and magnificence, they are them- 
 felves never to be exhaufted ; and though 
 many vokimes have been written on them al- 
 ready, as many more might ftill be added. 
 
 Simplicity is generally underftood to be 
 the ground-work of beauty, and decoration 
 of magnificence. It is certain the finer parts 
 a building is compofed of, if they are har- 
 monized with elegance and proportion, the 
 more beautiful it appears. Tiie eye is beft 
 fatisfied with feeing the whole at once, not 
 in travelling from objeft to objeft; for then 
 the whole is comprehended with pain and dif-^ 
 liculty, the attention is broken, and we forget 
 one moment what we had obferved another. 
 
 But a contrail of figure muft be preferved 
 even in the midft of this fimplicity. It is in 
 a building as in mufic ; the parts are various 
 and difagreeing in themfelves, till reconciled 
 by the (lull and judgment of the mafter. A 
 famenefs of form betrays a poverty of ima- 
 gination ; and is the fame in architcdure, as 
 dulnefs in writing : the mind is glutted with 
 it inflantly, and turns away diffatisfied. It 
 
xxiv PREFACE. 
 
 is, therefore, a principal thing to be regarded 
 by the fludent, to defign fimply and vari- 
 oufly at the fame time, and beauty will in- 
 fallibly be the refult of the whole. 
 
 Perfpeftive is another grand part of dc- 
 figning, which demands the maker's moft 
 critical regard, inafmuch as nothing contri- 
 butes more to grandeur and beauty, if well 
 underftood ; and nothing is underftood with 
 more difficulty and fludy. By perfpedtive is 
 meant the thorough infide profpeft of a build- 
 ing; but if it cannot be applied with pro- 
 priety to the art, we would take the liberty 
 of fubflituting the painter's word keeping in 
 the ftead of it. For in all buildings, as in 
 piftures, there mud be one principal figure, 
 to which all the others mull be fubordinate, 
 and from whence you muft ftrike out to exa- 
 mine the parts, and to which you muft return 
 to determine the whole. 
 
 Decoration, or choice and difpofition of 
 ornaments, is the lad grand requifite to make 
 a complcat architeCt : and this depends partly 
 on genius, and partly on fancy ; but both 
 rnult be under the condu6l of the fevereit 
 •judgment and exadeft tafte. In Ihort, all 
 
 ornaments 
 
PREFACE. XXV 
 
 ornaments are ill placed, that may be fpared 
 without being mifled : as all empty fpaccs 
 are abfurd, where nakednefs hurts the eye, 
 and propriety would admit of decoration. 
 
 We cannot fufficiently recommend to all 
 perfons, who build fumptuoufly, to calculate 
 their buildings according to the point of fight 
 from whence they are to be viewed. If they 
 may, or fliould be ^cen from far, their parts 
 Ibould be fimple, great, and noble ; if the 
 profpcd is near, the workmanfliip (hould be 
 neat and little, that it may be i'cen and un- 
 derflood, as the nature of its (ituation w-ill 
 give leave. 
 
 Upon the whole, nothing but nature, and 
 a long ftudy of the antient and modern flruc- 
 tures, will enrich the mind fufficiently to 
 excel in this noble art; and this dictionary 
 vill be found a proper key to explain their 
 beauties, as well as a needful caution to avoid 
 their defeds. 
 
 As nothing contributes more to the gran- 
 deur and magnificence of a city, than noble 
 and elegant buildings, fo nothing produces 
 an heavier cenfure on the national tafte, than 
 thofe which are otherwife. It is for this 
 a reafon, 
 
xxvi P R E F A C E. 
 
 reafon, highly laudable to ftir up the public 
 to an attention to fuch elegant and proper 
 decorations as theie ; not only in regard to 
 the fame of the people in general, but their 
 intereft too. One of the chief reafons ^vhy 
 Italy is fo generally vifited by all foreigners 
 of genius and diItin6lion, is owing to the 
 magnificence of their flruQures, and their 
 number and variety : they are a continual 
 bait to invite their neighbours to lay out their 
 money amongfl; them ; and we may reafon- 
 ably affert, that the fums which have been 
 expended for the bare fight of thofe elegant 
 piles, have more than paid the original charge 
 of their building. This Lewis XIV. was 
 fufficiently apprized of when he undertook 
 Verfailles. The company that fingle fa- 
 brick has drawn into France, has made that 
 crown ample amends for the expence of erect- 
 ing it : and they have both the life and repu- 
 tation of it ftill into the bargain. 
 
 It is high time, therefore, for us to look 
 about us too, and endeavour to vie with our 
 neighbours in politenefs, as well as power and 
 empire. Towards the end of King James the 
 Firfl's reign, and in the beginning of his 
 
 fon'Sj 
 
PREFACE. xxvii 
 
 Ton's, taftc made a bold ftep from Italy to 
 England at once, and fcarce ftaid a moment 
 to vifit France by the way. Froni the moft 
 profound ignorance in architefture, the moft 
 confummate light of knowledge, Inigo 
 Jones, ftarted up a prodigy of art, and vied 
 even with his mafter Palladio himfelf. From 
 fo glorious an outfet, there was not any ex- 
 cellency that we might not have hoped to ob- 
 tain ; Britain had a reafonable profpeft to 
 rival Italy, and foil every nation in Europe 
 befide. But in the midfl of thefe fanguine 
 expe6lations, the fatal civil war commenced, 
 and all the arts and fciences were immediately 
 laid afide, as no way concerned in the quarrel. 
 Vvliat fallowed was all darknefs and obfcurity, 
 and it is even a wonder they left us a monu- 
 ment of the beauty which it was io agreeable 
 to their nature to deftroy. 
 
 Wren was the next genius that arofe to 
 aw^aken the fpirit of fcience, and kindle in 
 his country a love for that fcience which had 
 been fo long negleded. During his time a 
 moit melancholy opportunity offered for art 
 to exert itfelf, in the mod extraordinary man- 
 ner : but the calamities of the prefent cir- 
 a 2 cumftance 
 
xxviii P R E F A C E. 
 
 cumftance were fo great and numerous, that 
 the pleas of elegance and beauty could not be 
 heard, and neccffity and convenience took 
 place of harmony and magnificence. 
 
 I allude to the fire of London. This ca- 
 taftrope furnillied the mofl perfeO; occafion 
 that can ever happen in any city, to rebuild 
 it with pomp and regularity. Wren fore- 
 faw this, and, as we are told, offered a 
 fcheme for that purpofe, which would have 
 made it the wonder of the world. He pro- 
 pofed to have laid out one large flreet from 
 Aldgate to Temple-bar, in the middle of 
 which was to have been a large fquare, ca- 
 pable of containing the new church of St. 
 Paul's, with a proper diftance for the view 
 all round it; whereby that huge building 
 would not have been ctx)ped up, as it is at 
 prefent, in fuch a manner, as no where to 
 be feen to advantage at all; but would have 
 had a long and ample vifta at each end to 
 have reconciled it to a proper point of view, 
 and to have given it one great benefit which, 
 in all probability, it mufl now want for ever. 
 He farther propofed to rebuild all the parifh- 
 churches in fuch a manner, as to be feen at 
 
 the 
 
PREFACE. xxix 
 
 the end of every vifta of houfes, and dif- 
 perfed in fuch diftances from each other, as to 
 appear neither too thick nor thin in profpeft j 
 but to give a proper heightening to the whole 
 bidk of the city as it filled the iandfcape. 
 
 Laftly, he propofed to build all the houfes 
 uniform, and fupported on a piazza, like 
 that of Covent-garden; and by the water- 
 fide, from the bridge to the Temple, he had 
 planned a long and broad wharf or key, 
 where he defigned to have ranged all the 
 halls that belong to the feveral companies of 
 the city, with proper warchoufes for mer- 
 chants between, to vary the edifices, and 
 make it at once one of the mofl beautiful 
 and mofl ufeful ranges of flru6lure in the 
 world. But, as I faid before, the hurry of 
 rebuilding, and the dilputes about property, 
 prevented this glorious fcheme from taking 
 place. 
 
 In our own times an opportunity offered 
 to adorn the city, in fome degree; and tho* 
 the fcarcity of ground in London will not 
 allow as much beauty of fituation as one 
 would defire, yet if the buildings were fuited 
 to their place, ihcy would make a better figure 
 
 than 
 
XXX PREFACE. 
 
 than they do at prefent. I have now the late 
 new churches in my eye, amongft all which 
 there are not five placed to advantage, and 
 fcarcely fo many which are built in tafte, or 
 deferve half the money which they coft ; a ■ 
 circumftance which mud refle6l on the judg- •[ 
 ment of thofe who chofe the plans, as well 
 as the genius of the architcBs themfelves. 
 
 No nation can reproach us for want of cx- 
 pence in cur public buildings, but all nadons -j 
 may for want of elegance and difcernment | 
 in the execution. In the firft place, there j 
 are very few of our fine pieces of archuec- \ 
 ture in fight ; they are generally hid in holes '■ 
 and corners, as if they had been built by 
 ftealth, or the artifts M'crc afiiamcd of their • 
 works ; or elfe they are but effays, or trials of ^ 
 flvill, and remain unfiniflied, till time himfclf 
 fliall lay them in ruins. 
 
 After this it is unneceflary to mention, that 
 our fl:ru6lures are generally heavy, difpropor- 
 tioned, and rather incumbered than adorned. 
 Beauty does not confift in expence or deco- 
 ration. It is pofiible for a flight building to 
 be very perfe6t, and a coftly one to be very 
 deformed. I could eafily name inftances of 
 
 both 
 
PREFACE. xxxi 
 
 both kinds; but, as I propofe to point out to 
 my readers moft of the edifices about town 
 tliat are worth confideration on either fide, I 
 will not anticipate my defign, but exemplify 
 my meaning as I proceed, and leave the pub- 
 lic to make what ufe of it they pleafe. 
 
 A CR I 
 
CRITICAL REVIEW 
 
 OF THE 
 
 - PUBLIC BUILDINGS, &c. 
 
 MORNING I. 
 
 IN every capital city there are many events worthv 
 of being recorded, whether we regard it in an' 
 hiftorical or topographical view; and few cities have 
 fo juft a claim to notice in either refpedt as London. 
 But to enter into detail on thefe fubjecSIs would be 
 totally incompatible with the intention of this work, 
 which is, that it (hall be a pocket volume. The 
 avowed purpofe of its original author, to review the 
 public buildings, &c. will be adhered to as much as 
 poflible; but, for the Hike of general utility, we fhail 
 not hefitate in remarking things which deferve ge- 
 neral notice, tho' of a very different nature from any 
 thing contained in his treatife. And if fuccefs at- 
 tend the endeavour to feledl fuch matters as are in- 
 titled to the attention of the man of tafte and ob- 
 B fervation> 
 
2 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 fervation, it may be prefumed to be even an advan- 
 tage that our plan obliges us to reje£l thofe minutije 
 which are neither fingular nor interefting. 
 
 In the latitude of about 51. 32. north, the river 
 Thames bends into a femicircular figure, whofe 
 convexity is tov^^ards the northward. The bank or 
 fhore on this fide, which is compoied of firm gra- 
 vel, afcends gently for fevcral miles, till the view is 
 bounded by the pleafing and romantic hills on which 
 the villages of Hampftead and Highgate are fituated. 
 This fpot is about fixty miles by water from the 
 mouth of the Thames, and is vifited by the tides 
 which flow about twenty miles farther up. Too 
 remote from the fea to be invaded or furprifed, yet 
 fufficiently acceflible by the largeft merchant fliipsj 
 fheltered to the north, but open to the weft and 
 fouth, and fubjeft to all that beneficial agitation of 
 the air which the vicilfitude of the tides never fails 
 to produce, without any of thofe injurious blafls 
 which the fait water occafionally diffufes over the 
 face of its coafts. Thefe are fome of the advan- 
 tages pofTefled by the ground on which the city 
 of London is built; and from thefe advantages it 
 has continued to flourifti in trade and dignity, from 
 the remote periods of fabulous hiftory to the pre- 
 fent age. 
 
 Within the laft century the buildings in the en- 
 virons of London have been prodigioufly increafcd. 
 The cities of London, Weflminfter, and the bo- 
 rough of South wark are conjoined in one vaft ag- 
 gregate. 
 
LONDON. 3 
 
 gregate, which has fwallowed up and included no 
 lefs than forty-five villages. By the operation of 
 feveral a6ls of parliament for regulating buildings, 
 the houfes are at prefent very regular, and confift 
 chiefly of brick. The ftreets are open and airy, 
 all proje(Sions of bow windows, figns, &c. being 
 prohibited. The pavement is divided into three 
 parts, the road, and the foot-path on each fide ; tlic 
 road is better paved than any other city we remem- 
 ber to have feen, and the foot-path, which is in few 
 places narrower than five feet, is paved with broad 
 flat ftones a little raifed above the level of the ftreet. 
 Almoft every houfe has a glafs lamp with two wicks, 1 1 
 which burns from fun-fettofun-rife all the year. Be- '' 
 neath the pavements are vaft fubterraneous fewers 
 arched over, to convey away the wafte water which 
 in other cities is fo noifome above ground; anil at 
 a lefs depth are buried ^wooden pipes that fupply 
 every houfe plentifully with water, condufted by 
 leaden pipes into the kitchens or cellars, three times 
 a week, for the trifling expence of fix iliillings per 
 quarter. In thefe pipes, at convenient diftances in 
 the ftreets are plugs, to be drawn in cafe of fire ; 
 and as they are covered by the pavement, their place 
 is always marked out by an admeafurement painted 
 on the neareft v/all. The intelligent foreigner can- 
 not fail to take notice of thefe ufeful particulars, 
 which are almoft peculiar to London; but the Inha- 
 bitant, not attending to the flow gradation by which 
 public convenience is attained, will perhaps be more. 
 ^ 2 iQ^dy 
 
4. TOUR THROUGH 
 
 ready to deride thofe cities which are deficient, 
 than to fet a proper val*ie on his own enjoyments. 
 
 Our furvey of this extenfive metropolis will be- 
 gin at the eaftern extremity. We (hall divide it into 
 feveral walks, the firft of which we commence at 
 the Tower, and proceed through the borough of 
 Southwark, over St. George's Fields, to Blackfriars 
 Bridge, inferting the remarks of our author as they 
 occur. 
 
 ' To begin with the remoteft extremity of the 
 town : As there were no attempts, till lately, ever 
 made there to ere6l any building which might adorn 
 it at all, there was the more neceiTity to be particu- 
 larly careful that the firft defign of this nature 
 fhould not mifcarry ; and yet the four churches 
 which have been built at Limehoufe, RatclifFe, 
 Horflydown, and Spital Fields, though they have 
 all the advantage of ground which can be defired, 
 are not to be looked at without difpleafure. They 
 are mere Gothic heaps of flone without form or 
 order, and meet with contempt from the beft and 
 worft taftes alike j the lafl building efpecially de- 
 ferves the fevereft condemnation, in that, it has 
 been ereded at a monftrous expence, and yet is 
 beyond queftion one of the molt abfurd piles in 
 Europe. 
 
 As a fabrick of antiquity, it is impoUible to pafs 
 by the Tower without taking fome notice of it; 
 particularly fince it is vifited fo much by the good peo- 
 ple of England, as a place made venerable by the 
 
 frequent 
 
LONDON. 5 
 
 ficqucnt mention which has been made of it in htl- 
 tory, and famous for having been the fcenc of many 
 tragical adventures. But I muft caution thofe of my 
 readers, who are unfl:illed in archite6ture, not to be- 
 lieve it either a place of ftrength, beauty, or magni- 
 ficence : it is large and old indeed, and has a formi- 
 dable row of cannon before it, to fire on rejoicing 
 days.' 
 
 The Tower of London was anciently a royal pa- 
 lace, and confifted originally of no more than what 
 is now called the White Tower, which is believed 
 to have been built by Julius Crefar j and in 1076 Wil- 
 liam the Conqueror enlarged and ftrengthened it by 
 way of defence, and to over-awe the Londoners. 
 William Rufus, in 1098, laid the foundation for a 
 caftle, which building was not finiflied till the reign 
 of Henry L He alfo furrounded it with walls, an(l 
 a broad and deep ditch, which is in fome places 
 120 feet wide, Henry L built the Lion's Tower, 
 for the reception of the foreign animals prefented to 
 him by the emperor Frederic, and from tliat time it 
 has been the lodging of beafts, birds, &c. prefented 
 to the feveral kings of England. Henry IIL in 
 1240, ordered a ftone gate, bulwark, and fome other 
 additions to be made to this fortrefs, and the out- 
 fide wall of the fquare tower to be whitened j from 
 whence it was called the White Tower. Edward 
 IIL built the church. In the year 1465 Edward IV. 
 greatly enlarged the fortifications. In the reign of 
 Charles I. 1638, the White Tower was rebuilt, and 
 B 3 fince 
 
6 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 fince the reftoration of Charles II. it has been tho- 
 roughly repaired, and a great number of additional 
 buildings made to it; fo that at prefent it has more 
 the appearance of a town than a fortrefs. 
 
 The Tower is parted from the river Thames by 
 a narrow ditch, and a convenient wharf, with which 
 it has a communication by a draw-bridge, for the 
 readier ifluing and receiving ammunition, and naval 
 and military ftores. This wharf is now mounted 
 with 6 1 pieces of heavy cannon, on carriages, which 
 are fired on ftate holidays; and in war time, when 
 any glorious victory attends his majefty's arms. 
 
 Parallel to the wharf is a platform, 70 yards in 
 length, called the Lady's Line, becaufe much fre- 
 quented by the ladies in fummer. It is fliaded with 
 a lofty row of trees, and has a delightful profpedl of 
 fhips, boats, &c. pafUng and repafling on the Thames. 
 You afcend the line by ftone fteps, and being upon 
 it, you may walk almoft round the walls of the 
 'I'ower without interruption. In your way, you 
 will pafs three batteries; the Devil's Battery, which 
 is alfo a platform, on which are mounted fcven pieces 
 of cannon, though on the battery itfelf are only 
 five; the Stone Battery, defended by eight pieces of 
 cannon ; and the Wooden Battery, mounted with 
 fix pieces of cannon ; all thefe are nine pounders. 
 
 The principal entrance into the Tower is by a 
 gate to the weft, large enough to admit coaches ; 
 but thefe firft pafs an outer gate, and a ftout ftone 
 bridge, built over the ditch. Thwe is an entrance 
 
 for 
 
LONDON.. 7 
 
 for peifons on foot, over the draw-bridge to the 
 wharf j which wharf is only divided from the main 
 land by gates at each end, opened every day at a 
 certain hour, for a free intercourfe between the in- 
 habitants of the Tower, the city, and its fuburbs. 
 There is alfo a water-gate, commonly called Trai- 
 tor's Gate, through which it has been cuftomary to 
 convey traitors and other ftate prifoners to and from 
 the Tower. Over this gate is a regular building, 
 terminating at each end by two ballions, or round 
 towers, on which are embrafures for pointing can- 
 ron; but there are at prefent none mounted. In 
 this building there are the infirmary, the mill, and 
 water- works that fupply the Tower with water. 
 
 The principal officers to whom the government 
 and care of the Tower is committed, are, firft, the 
 conftable of the Tower, whofe poft is of the utmoft 
 importance, he having at all coronations and other 
 ftate ceremonies, the cuftody of the crown and other 
 regalia. He has under him a lieutenant, and a de- 
 puty-lieutenant, commonly called governor, a tower- 
 major, a gentleman-porter, yeoman-porter, gentle- 
 man-gaoler, four quarter-gunners, and 40 warders, 
 whofe uniform is the fame with the king's yeomen 
 of the guard, lliey wear round flat crowned caps, 
 tied round with bands of party-coloured ribbands ; 
 their coats are of a particular make, but very be- 
 coming, with large fleeves and flowing fkirts, and 
 are of fine fcarlet cloth, laced round the edges and 
 feams with feveral rows of gold lace, and girt round 
 ij 4. their 
 
S TOUR THROUGH 
 
 their waifts with a broad laced girdle. Upon their 
 breafts and backs they wear the king's filver badge, 
 reprefenting the thiftle and rofe, on which are the 
 letters G. R. Befides many other inferior officers, 
 there is a battalion of foot-guards on duty, quarter- 
 ed in barracks. 
 
 The principal buildings within the walls are, the 
 church, the White Tower, the offices of ordnance, 
 of the mint, of the keepers of the records, the 
 jewel-office, the horfe- armory, the grand ftore- 
 houfe, the new or fmall -armory, handfome houfes 
 for the chief officers refiding in the Tower, with 
 many leffer houfes for the inferior officers, barracks 
 for foldiers, and prifons for ftate delinquents, which 
 are commonly in the warder's houfe. 
 
 There is nothing about the church, which is wor- 
 thy a defcription. 
 
 The White Tower is a large fquare irregular 
 building, fituated almoft in the centre, no one fide 
 anfwering to another; on the top of which there 
 are four watch-towers, neither of them are built 
 alike : one of thefe towers is now converted into an 
 obfervatory. The building itfclf confifts of three 
 lofty ftories, under which are large and commodious 
 vaults, chiefly filled with falt-petre. The top is co- 
 vered with flat leads, from whence there is an ex- 
 tenfive and delightful profpe(St. 
 
 In the firft ftory are two noble rooms, one of 
 which is a fmall armory for the fea fervice, in which 
 are vaiious forts of arms, very curioufly laid up, 
 
 for 
 
LONDON. 9 
 
 for upwards of 10,000 feamen. In the other room 
 are a great number of clofcts and prefTes, filled with 
 warlike tools and inftruments of death. Over thefe 
 are two other floors, one filled principally with 
 arms, the other with arms and armourers tools, 
 fuch as cheveaux de frize, pick-axes, fpades, &:c. 
 In the upper ftory are kept match, fheep-fkins, 
 tanned hides, &c. And in a little room, fome re- 
 cords, containing the ufages and privileges of the 
 place. All models of new-invented engines of de- 
 .ftrudlion, which have been prefented to the govern- 
 ment, are kept in this tower. 
 
 On the top of this tower is a large ciftern for fiip- 
 plying the garrifon with water in cafe of need; it 
 is about feven feet deep, nine in breadth, and aboilt 
 60 in length, and is filled by an engine from the 
 Thames. 
 
 The ofHce of ordnance is kept in Cold Harbour; 
 to this office all other offices for fupplying artillery, 
 arms, &c. to any part of the king's dominions, are 
 accountable ; and from hence all orders for the dif- 
 pofition of warlike materials, for every kind offer- 
 vice, is ifTued. 
 
 The Mint comprehends one third of the Tower, 
 and contains houfes for all the officers belonging to 
 the coinage. 
 
 The office of keeper of the records, oppofite the 
 
 platform, is adorned with a fine carved ffone cafe 
 
 at the entrance, and finely wainfcoted within. Here 
 
 all the rolls, from the time of king John, to the be- 
 
 B 5 ginning 
 
§9 T O U R THROUGH 
 
 ginning of the reign of Richard III. are defofited 
 in fifty-fix walnfcot prefTes. Thefe rolls and records 
 contain the antient tenures of land in England, the 
 original of laws and flatutes, and the rights of Eng- 
 land to the dominion of the Britifli feas, Sec. Sic. Sic. 
 A fearch here is half-a-guinea, for which you may 
 perufe any one fubjedl for a year. This office is 
 open fix hours in a day in the months of December, 
 January, and February j all the reft of the year 
 eight hours. 
 
 The jewel-office is a dark, ftrong, ftone room, 
 a little to the eafl of the jrrand ftore-houfe. Its con- 
 tents will be fpoke of hereafter. 
 
 The horfe-armory is a little eaftward of the white 
 tower. It is a plain brick building, rather conve- 
 nient than elegant. Its contents will be fpoken of 
 hereafter. 
 
 The grand ftore-houfe is a noble building to the 
 northward of the white tower, 245 feet long, and 
 60 feet broad. This ftru£ture is of brick and ftcne : 
 pn the north fide is a ftately door-cafe, adorned 
 with four columns, entablature and triangular pedi- 
 ments, of the Dorick order ; under the pediment are 
 the king's arms, ornamented with enrichments of 
 trophy- work. 
 
 The armories are worth feeing, as they c''ontain 
 many curious articles. The whole expence of 
 feeing the wild-beafts, the feveral armories, and the 
 jewel -office, is near five fhillings to a fingle perfon, 
 
 but 
 
L O N D O N. n 
 
 but a company do not individually pay more than 
 half that funi. 
 
 ' The Cuftom-houfe is a place, which, by its ufe 
 and fituation, can hardly fail of being vifited by 
 ftrangers. I could have wiflied, therefore, on that 
 account, and likewife becaufe we are more famous 
 for our naval affairs than any thing elfe, that this 
 building had been more coftly and magnificent : it 
 would make a feafonable impreflion on foreigners of 
 the majefty and wealth of the Britifh nation ; to 
 which, let me add, tliat its fituation, by the water- 
 fidc, gives it ftill a jufter claim to grandeur and 
 decoration, and it is pity fo public a building ihculd 
 want what is fo remarkably milled.' 
 
 At a fmall diilance to the wefl of the Cuftom- 
 houfe, on St. Dunftan's Hill, fl:ands the church of 
 St, Dunftan's in the Eafl, remarkable for the ele- 
 gance of its tower and fteeple. Sir Chriftopher 
 Wren was the archite^. The ftyle of the building 
 is the modern Gothic, and the placing the fpire on 
 the interfeflion of two arches, is cfleemed a bold 
 attempt in architecture. It muft be allowed, that 
 this gives the whole an air of lightnefs, that fills the 
 mind with apprehenfions of its falling the hrft tcm- 
 peft J but it is, in reality, ftronger than many 
 iteeples which have a more mafly appearance. 
 
 ' The Monument is, undoubtedly, the nobleft mo- 
 dern column in the world ; nay, in fome refpciSIs, 
 it may jufily vie with thofe celebrated ones of ami~ 
 cuity, which are confecrated to the names of Trajan 
 B 6 and 
 
12 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 and Antoninus. Nothing can be more bold and 
 furprifmg, nothing more beautiful and harmonious -, 
 the bas-relief at the bafe, allov/ing for fome few 
 defeiSts, is finely imagined, and executed as well : 
 and nothing material can be cavilled with, but the 
 infcriptions round about it. Nothing, indeed, can 
 be more ridiculous than its fituation, unlefs the 
 reafon which is affigned for fo doing, being nearly 
 on the fpot where the fire began. I am of opinion, 
 if it had been raifed at the end of Pater-nofter Row, 
 where Cheapfide-conduit flood, it would have been 
 as efFedlual a remembrance of the misfortune it is 
 defigned to record, and would at once have added 
 an inexprefl'able beauty to the vifta, and received as 
 much as it gave.' 
 
 The church of St. Magnus, which is at the 
 north-eaft corner of London -bridge, has nothing 
 which might invite us to flop, unlefs we may men- 
 tion that the figures which ornament the dial are 
 not badly executed. 
 
 London-bridge appears to have been originally 
 built between the years 993 and ioi6,*fince, in the 
 firft mentioned year, Anlaft', the Dane, failed up 
 the Thames, with a fleet of ninety-three fliips, as 
 far as Staines ; and, in the laft, Canute, King of 
 Denmark, caufed a canal to be formed on the fouth 
 fide of the Thames for conveying his (hips above 
 the bridge. 
 
 If the traditionary account of the origin of the 
 ancient wooden bridge, delivered by Bartholomew 
 
 Linfleadj 
 
LONDON. 13 
 
 Linftead, alias Fowie, the laft Prior of St. Mary 
 Overy's Convent, is worthy of credit, we are in- 
 debted to the pubh"c fpirit of that religious houfe for 
 this flrutSlure. But it is more probable, as the 
 Continuators of Stowe imagine, that they did no 
 more than give their confcnt to its being erected, on 
 receiving a fufficient recompence for the lofs of the 
 ferry by which they had always been fupported. 
 
 In the year 11 36 this bri'dge was confunied by 
 fire, and in 1163 it was in fo ruinous a fituation, 
 that it was obliged to be new built under the infpec- 
 tion of Peter, Curate of St. Mary Colechurch, in 
 London, a pcrfon who was famed for his Ikill in 
 architecture. 
 
 At length, the continual and large expence in 
 maintaining a wooden bridge becoming burthenfome 
 to the people, who, when the lands appropriated to 
 that ufe fell fhort of their produce, were taxed to 
 make up the deficiencies, it was refolved, in 1176, 
 to build one of ftone, a little to the weft of the 
 other, which, in the time of William the Con- 
 queror, began at Botolph's Wharf; and this ftruc- 
 ture was completed in 1209. 
 
 The foundation is, by the vulgar, generally be- 
 lieved to be laid onwoolpacks; which opinion, pro- 
 bably, arofe from a tax being laid upon every pack 
 of wool towards its conftruilion. Mr. Maitland 
 obferves, that having carefully furveyed the bridge 
 in the year 1730, in company with Mr. Sparruck, 
 the Water-Carpenter thereof, he obferved, in many 
 
 places 
 
14 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 places where the flones were wafhed from the fter- 
 lings, the vaft frames of piles v/hereon the flone 
 piers were founded. The exterior part of thefe 
 piles were extremely large, and driven as clofe as 
 art could efFe£l; and on the top were laid long 
 beams of timber of the thicknefs of ten inches, 
 ftrongly bolted ; v.'hereon was placed the bafe of the 
 ftone piers, nine feet above the bed of the river, 
 and three below the ftcrlings; and that on the out- 
 fide of this foundation, were driven the piles called 
 the fterlings. 
 
 Mr. Sparruck informed him, that he and the 
 Bridge-Mafon had frequently taken out of, the 
 lowermoft layers ofilones in the piers feveral of the 
 original ftones, v.'hich had been laid in pitch inftead 
 of mortar ; and that this occafioned their being of 
 opinion, that all the outfide ftones of the piers, as 
 high as the fterlings, were originally laid in tha 
 fame manner, to prevent the waters damaging the 
 work. This, Mr. Maidand naturally fuppofes, 
 was done at every tide of ebb, till the work was 
 raifed above the high water mark. 
 
 But, notwithftanding all this art and sixpence in 
 building the bridge with ftone, it was foon in great 
 want of repairs ; for about four years after it was 
 finiflied, a fire broke out in Southwark, which 
 taking hold of the church of our Lady of the Canons, 
 or St. Mary Overy's, a fouth wind communicated 
 the flames to the houfes on the north-end of the 
 bridge, which interrupted the palFage, and flopped 
 
 the 
 
LONDON. IS 
 
 the return of a multitude of people, who had run 
 from London to help to extinguifh the fire in South- 
 wark ; and while the amazed croud were endea- 
 vouring to force a paffagc back to the city through 
 the flames on the north end of the bridge, the fire 
 broke out at the fouth end alfo ; fo that being in- 
 clofed between two great fires, above three thou- 
 fand people perifhed in the flames, or were drowned 
 fey overloading the vefTels that ventured to come to 
 their afliftance. 
 
 By this dreadful accident, and other circum- 
 fiances, this new ftone bridge was in fo ruinous 
 a condition, that King Edv/ard L granted the 
 Bridge-Keeper a brief to afK and receive the charity 
 of his fubjeds throughout the kingdom, towards re- 
 pairing it : befides which, he caufed letters to be 
 wrote to the Clergy of all degrees, earneftly prelting 
 them to contribute to fo laudable a work ; but thefe 
 methods proving ineffectual, he granted a toll, by 
 which every foot pafTenger carrying merchandize 
 over the bridge was to pay one farthing, every 
 horfeman with merchijidize one penny, and every 
 faleable pack carried and pr.fling over one half- 
 penny. But while thefe afFairs were in agitation, 
 the ruin of the bridge was compleated by the ice and 
 floods, which, in 1282, bore down and deftroyed 
 five of its arches. 
 
 It would be tedious to enumerate the many cafual- 
 ties which have arifen from the repeated conflagra- 
 tions on the bridge, or the dangerous navigation 
 
 beneath 
 
l6 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 beneath it j the fall, at low water, being then not 
 lefs than five feet. At length the Magiflracy of 
 London, in the year 1746, came to the refolutlon 
 of taking down all the houfes, and enlarging one or 
 more of the arches, but it was not till 1756 that 
 the Adl of Parliament was pafled for making thefe 
 improvements ; which, after fome interruptions, 
 were put in practice. 
 
 To prevent pofterity being deceived by the pom- 
 pous eulogiums beftowed on this bridge, which has 
 been ftiled the wonder of the world, the bridge of the 
 worlds and the bridge of wonders, the following de- 
 fcription, publifhed about the time of the removal 
 of the houfes, will not be unacceptable. " The 
 Thames in this part is 915 feet broad, and that is 
 the length of the bridge, which was forty-three feet 
 feven inches in height. The ftreet which, before 
 the houfes fell to decay, confifted of handfome lofty 
 edifices, was pretty regularly built ; it was 20 feet 
 broad, and the houfes on each fide generally 264 
 feet deep. Acrofs the middle of the ftreet ran feve- 
 ral lofty arches, extending from fide to fide, the 
 bottom part of each arch terminating at the firft 
 ftory, and the upper part reaching near the top of 
 the buildings, the work over the arches extending 
 in a ftrait line from fide to fide,- Thefe arches were 
 dcfigned to prevent the houfes giving way. They 
 were, therefore, formed of ftrong timbers, bolted 
 into the timbers of the houfes on each fide, and 
 being covered with laths and plaifter, appeared as if 
 
 built 
 
LONDON. 17 
 
 built with ftone ; and in fome of them a clofet, or 
 little room, was formed in the cavities next the 
 houfes, with a window to the north, and another to 
 the foutli. 
 
 " This ftreet had three openings on each fide, 
 adorned with iron rails, to afford the paflengers a 
 view of the river, and placed over three of the 
 wideft arches. Thus the ftreet on the bridge had 
 nothing to diftinguifh it from a common handfome 
 narrow ftreet ; but the high arches towards the 
 middle, and the three openings on each fide, which 
 afforded an agreeable view of the river. But on the 
 outfide, the view from the water and from the keys 
 was as difagreeable as poflible. Nineteen unequila*- 
 teral arches, with fterlings increafed to a monftrous 
 fize by frequent reprars, fupported the ftreet above. 
 Thefe arches were of very different fizes, and feve- 
 ral, that were low and narrow, were placed between 
 others that were broad and lofty. The back part 
 of the houfes near the Thames had neither uni- 
 formity nor any degree of beauty ; the line was 
 broken by a great number of clofets proje<3:ing from 
 the buildings, and by mean neceffary-houfes hang- 
 ing over the fterllngs. This deformity was in- 
 creafed by the houfes extending a confiderable dif- 
 tance over tlie fides of the bridge, and by fome of 
 them projedling farther over it than others: by 
 which means the tops of almoft all the arches, ex- 
 cept thofe which were nearcft, were concealed from 
 the view of the palTengers on the keys, and gave 
 
 the 
 
l8 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 the bridge the appearance of a multitude of rude 
 piers, with only an arch or two at the end, and the 
 reft confiiling of beams extending from the tops of 
 flat piers, without any otiier arches, quite acrofs 
 the river." 
 
 But thefe deformities are now removed. Inftead 
 of a narrow ftreet of twenty feet wide, the carriage 
 way is thirty-one feet broad, with a handfome raifed 
 pavement of flat ftone on each lice, feven feet broad, 
 for the ufe of palTengers j the fides being fecured 
 and adorned by a handfome ftone balluftrade, and a 
 fufficient number of lamps. 
 
 Here are nineteen arches, but not all pafTabkj 
 four of them on the north, and two on the fouth 
 fide, being taken up with the London-bridge water- 
 works. 
 
 Thefe works were invented by one^Morice, a 
 Dutchman, in 1582, to fupply the City with water 
 from the Thames, through wooden pipes. The 
 inventor, for his ingenuity, obtained from the City 
 a leafe of the fame for five hundred years. He made 
 great improvements in thefe work?, and thereby 
 grew immenfely rich. His fuccefibrs, in 17CI, 
 fold the property for 36,000!. to one Richard Soame, 
 who divided the fame into three hundred fhares, and 
 fold them at 500 1. each, when it commenced a 
 company. Thefe works have alfo been greatlv im- 
 proved under the direction of the late Mr. Hadlev. 
 
 The water is forced to a bafon on the top of a 
 high tower of wood, which ftands on the fterling 
 
 of 
 
LONDON.^ 19 
 
 of the firft arch, to the height of 120 feet; by 
 which means it is conveyed to any part of the City. 
 It is thus forced by four wheels, placed under the 
 arches, and moved by the common ftream of the 
 tide J cue turn of the four wheels caufmg 114 
 ftrokes ; — each ftroke being two feet and a half in 
 a feven-inch bore, raifes three gallons j and when 
 the river is at beft, the wheels go fix times round in 
 a minute, and but four and a half at middle water ; 
 fo that at fix times in a minute the number of ftrokes 
 from the four wheels are 684, raifing 2052 gallon* 
 in a minute 3 — that is, 123,120 gallons, or 1954 
 hogfheads in an hour ; amounting to 46,896 hogf- 
 heads in a day, including the waile, which may be 
 computed at a fifth part of the whole. 
 
 The whole machinery is efteemed one of th» 
 greateft curiofities in its kind of any in the world, 
 being fuperior to the moft famous water-engine at 
 Marli in France; which, for want of mechanical 
 knowledge in its inventor, is exceedingly chargeable 
 in repairs. 
 
 Crofling London-bridge we enter into the Bo- 
 rough of Southwark. Here we find all that difagree- 
 able croud, and hurry of bufmefs, which the nar- 
 rownefs of the ftreets renders quite uncomfortable. 
 Inftead of looking round with exultation at the 
 bufy fcene before us, and refle61:ing on its numerous 
 advantages, the mind is entirely taken up with the 
 care of one's own perfonal fafety. The ideas which 
 intrude themfelves on the imagination are, that a 
 
 cart 
 
20 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 cart will fplafh you all over, a porter will run the 
 corner of his load againfl your head, or that a cheefe, 
 a fugar-loaf, or fome other parcel of goods, thrown 
 from a cart into a Ihop, will fall, and dafli your 
 brains out. We are almoft ready to regret that the 
 Borough efcaped the fire which confumed the City of 
 London. There is not one good ftreet in the place, 
 and fo few objects worthy of notice, that we may 
 pafs as quickly through it in our furvey as wc 
 Ihould in walking. On the left hand, or weft fide 
 of the principal ftreet, arc St. Thomas's and Guy's 
 Hofpitals: the firft was founded by Edward VL 
 The Church, and moft of this Hofpital, was rebuilt 
 between the years 1701 and 1706. Guy's Hofpital 
 is one of the greateft private charities ever known. 
 Its founder, Thomas Guy, was a Bookfeller in 
 Lombard-ftreet. He died in 1724, and bequeathed, 
 in the whole, to this endowment about 350>oooK 
 fterling. 
 
 Proceeding on to the fouthward, we find the 
 principal ftreet confiderably wider than before. 
 This fpot is called St. Margaret's Hill, a Church 
 having formerly ftood here dedicated to St. Margaret, 
 But at prefent the fcite is occupied by a Court of 
 Juftice, which ftands on a fmall colonnade, and 
 makes a very trifling and infignificant appearance. 
 Immediately before us ftands St. George's Church, 
 which, in its due eaft and weft pofition, projects 
 very aukwardly into the ftreet. This Church is a 
 plain, fubftantial building, that poflefles no requifite" 
 
LONDON. 21 
 
 to fix the attention. It is pity that a Church, built 
 in a good ftyle, or fome other public edifice, Ihould 
 not be ere^Sled where the jufc-mentioned Court 
 ftands; as it would have an incomparable advantage 
 in point of view up Blackman-ftreet. 
 
 On the eaft fide of St. Margaret's Hill is the 
 Marfhalfea Prifonand Court, in which are confined 
 all perfons committed for crimes at fea, as pirates, 
 &c. and for debt by land. The perfons confined 
 in this prifon for crimes at fea are tried at the Old 
 Bailey. 
 
 Blackman - llreet terminates in St. George's 
 Fields, formerly very dangerous for pafiengers at 
 night, but at prefent fo well illuminated and guard- 
 ed, that it makes a very ftriking appearance after 
 dark, and may be pafled at all hours in perfeft fafety. 
 On the right hand fide of the road clofe to the tufn- 
 pike is a lofty wall, which inclofes the buildings 
 of the King's Bench Prifon, a place of confine- 
 ment for debtors, and for every one fentenced 
 by the Court of King's Bench to fuff'er imprifon- 
 ment; but thofe who can purchafe the liberties have 
 the benefit of walking through Blackman-ftreet, 
 and a part of the Borough, and to a certain diftance 
 in St. George's Fields. Prifoners in any other gaol 
 may remove hither by habeas corpus. 
 
 At a fmall diftance from the King's Bench is the 
 county goal, a building whofe external appearance 
 is marked with a peculiar air of propriety and com- 
 
 padtnefs, 
 
22 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 padlnefs. The infide of this building was entirely 
 deftroyed and burnt by the populace in 1780. 
 
 In the center of St. George's Fields a ftone obe- 
 lifk is ere£led, at the common interfedlion or meet- 
 ing of five grand roads. Here let us paufe and 
 look round us. The view of the cities of London 
 and Weftminfter and the Borough from hence is 
 very pleafmg. On the one fide is the city of Weft- 
 minfler with its abbey towering above the buildings, 
 and as the eye traces along the circle of the river, 
 the rifing fhore appears enriched with the new build- 
 ings of the Adelphi and Somerfet-houfe. At the 
 end of a road near a mile in length appears the new 
 bridge at Blackfriars, and farther to the right the 
 city of London, adorned with a great variety of 
 fteeples, and the grand cathedral of St. Paul's. This 
 magnificent vicAV of the moft extenfive town in the 
 world is contrafted, on the country fide, by a rich 
 landfcape on the hills of Surry. 
 
 The Borough is alinoft joined to Lambeth by the 
 village of Newington and its environs. At New- 
 ington is a fmall church, and feveral alms-houfes. 
 Thofe on the fouth fide of the road are for poor men 
 and women of the Fifhmongers company of Lon- 
 don. They are built in a plain unadorned ftile, and 
 have no unpleafing appearance. 
 
 A few paces from the obelifk, a new theatre, or 
 place of public entertainment, has lately been ere6l- 
 ed, intended, as we are informed, to rival Aftley's 
 exhibition of horfemanlhip near Weftminfter-bridge. 
 
 Con- 
 
LONDON. 23 
 
 Convenience Teems to be the great aim of this ftruc- 
 ture, of whofe internal decorations we are not yet 
 enabled to fpeak. 
 
 Farther along the road, and on the fame fide, is 
 an extenfive edifice, every where except the front 
 enclofed by a wall of confiderable height. The 
 front is funple, and not inelegant. It is an hofpi- 
 tal, or place of reception, for penitent proftitutes, 
 and is under the moft excellent regulations, which 
 are the greateft honour to the fupporters of this cha- 
 rity. This place is not the retreat of indolence or 
 licentioufnefs •, though, at the fame time, every pre- 
 caution which true delicacy and a fmcere commi- 
 feration with the unfortunate females here admitted, 
 is adopted, to prevent its being thought a houfe of 
 corredlion, or even of hard labour. 
 
 They are admitted, if proper objects, upon pe- 
 tition ; and on admiflion each figns an agreement to 
 fubmlt to the rules of the houfe, and to pay after 
 the rate of lol. per annum for her board, lodging, 
 &c. if fbe fhould quit the houfe without leave of the 
 committee before the expiration of three years. 
 
 Chrift Church, on the fame fide of the road, is 
 a modern edifice, but has nothing about it to induce 
 us to ftop. 
 
 The bridge at Blackfriars is exceedingly light and 
 elegant. It was built according to a plan by Robert 
 Mylne, architect. The firft ftone was laid on the 
 31ft of October, 1760, by Sir Thomas Chitty, 
 Knt. then lord mayor of London. Several pieces 
 
 of 
 
24 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 of gold, filver, and copper coin of his majefty Geo. 
 II. were placed under the flonc, together with a 
 Latin infcription, in large plates of pure tin, infcrib- 
 jng the bridge with the name of William Pitt (af- 
 terwards earl of Chatham) as a proof the city's af- 
 fection to the man under whofe adminiftration the 
 antient reputation and influence of Britain was re- 
 flored. But the will of the vulgar has over-ruled 
 the wifh of the city; for the bridge has never been 
 called after the name of that great ftatefman, and 
 probably never will. 
 
 The view from the top of Blackfriars-bridge is 
 exceedingly pleafing, and even grand. On the one 
 fide, the road in St. George's Fields, over which 
 we have juft pafied, is feen finely terminated by the 
 obelifk; and on the other, the whole extent of Lon- 
 don and Weftminfter is beneath the eye, ftretched 
 along the {hore of a noble expanfion of water, occu- 
 pied by boats of various magnitudes and kinds. 
 The neareft, moft diflincl, and moft advantageous 
 view of the cathedral of St. Paul's is from hence. 
 
 This bridge confifts of nine arches, which being 
 ellipitical, the apertures for navigation are large, 
 while the bridge itfelf is low. When a perfon is 
 under the principal arch, the extent of the vault 
 above cannot be viewed without fome degree of 
 awe ! " 
 
 The length of the bridge, from- wharf to wharf, 
 
 is 995 Englifli feet; width of the central arch, loo 
 
 feet; width of the arches on each fide, reckoning 
 
 5 from 
 
LONDON.' 35 
 
 from the central one towards the (hores, 98, 93, 80, 
 and 70 feet refpedlively ; width of the carriage-way, 
 28 feet; width of the raifed foot-ways on each fide, 
 7 feet ; and the height of the balullrade on the. in- 
 fide, 4 feet 10 inches. 
 
 Over each pier is a recefs or balcony, containing 
 a bench, and fupported below by two Ionic pillars 
 and two pilaflers, which ftand on a femicircular 
 projection of die pier, 'above high- water mark : 
 Thefe pillars give an agreeable lightnefs to the ap- 
 pearance of the bridge on either fide. There are 
 t%vo flights of ftone fteps at each end, defended by 
 iron rails, for the convenience of taking water. 
 Thcfe {lairs, however, by conforming to the cur- 
 vatures at the end of the bridge, are more elegant 
 than convenient: a flight of 50 narrow ftone fteps, 
 without one landing-place, muft be very tirefome 
 to porters going up and down with loads, and even 
 dan^rous in frofty weather. 
 
 This bridge was opened as a bridle-way on No- 
 vember 19, 1768, and loon after for carriages. 
 
 J^IORN. 
 
zh TOURthrough 
 
 MORNING II. 
 
 OU R fecond walk will commence at the Tower, 
 and will convey the ftranger to moH of the 
 remarkable places to the eaftward of St. Paul's 
 Church. 
 
 At the upper part of Little Tower-hill, near the 
 end of King-ftreet, ftands the Viclualling-Office. 
 It is feparated from Tower-hill by a wall and gates, 
 and contains fome houfes for the officers, with ftore- 
 rooms, flaughter-houfes, a brewhoufe, houfes for 
 faking, barrelling, &c. provifions for the ufe of the 
 Navy. 
 
 In Crutched Friars is the Navy Office ; a building, 
 at which all affairs relating to the royal navy are 
 tranfaited by the Commiffioners under the Lords of 
 the Admiralty. It is a very plain llrudlure, that, 
 by its appearance, gives us no idea of its import- 
 ance ; but it mud be allowed the merit of being ex- 
 tremely convenient. The office where the Com- 
 miffioners meet, and the Clerks keep their books, 
 is detached from the reft, as a precaution againft 
 fire, the papers here being of the utmoft import- 
 ance J and in the other buildings fome of the Com- 
 miffioners, and other officers, refide. 
 
 Crutched 
 
LONDON. 27 
 
 Crutched Friars conveys us to Aldgate, where 
 formerly flood a City-gate of that name. This 
 ftreet, together with Whitechapel, is one of the 
 openefl-, though not the beft built in the City. It 
 would afford a fine vifta for a public edifice, if 
 eredled at the end of the pile of buildings between 
 Ivcadenhall-ftreet and Fenchurch-ftreet. This fine 
 vifla is, at prefent, terminated by a pump ! 
 
 It is worth our attention to pafs up Fenchurch- 
 ftreet, to take a view of the front of Ironmonger's 
 Hall. The whole lower ffory is wrought in ruftic, 
 the center part of the building projects a little, and 
 in this are a large arched entrance and two win- 
 dows, with two others on each fide. Over this 
 ruflic ftory rifes the fuperftrufture, which has a 
 light ruftic at the corners, to keep up a ccrrefpon- . 
 dence with the reft of the building ; the part which 
 projects is here ornamented with four Ionic pilafters 
 coupled, but with a large intercolumniation. In the 
 middle is a very noble Venetian window, and over 
 it a circular one. In each fpace between the pi- 
 lafters is a fmaller window, with an angular pedi- 
 ment, and over thefe are alfo circular ones ; but the 
 ftde parts have arched windows, with fquare ones 
 over them. The central part is crowned with a 
 pediment, fupported by thefe pilafters, and in its 
 plane is the arms of the Company, with decorations 
 in relievo. The upper part of the building is ter- 
 minated by a baluftrade, crowned with vafes. This 
 C 2 com- 
 
28 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 compofition is fo well adapted in point of propor- 
 tion, that the whole has a grand and noble eftc'6^. 
 
 * I am ot opinion, if the Directors of theEaft India 
 Company had thought in this manner, they would 
 have bcf towed a greater expcnce on their houfe 
 than appears in it at prefent: it is certainly un- 
 worthy their figure in the trading world, and would 
 better fuit with the common life of a fuigle Di- 
 re6lor, than the pcmp and ftate of the whole body. 
 The fabrick, indued, is built in tafte j but there is 
 not enough of it ; aiid, if they had thought of adding 
 a portico in the middle, it would have looked more 
 like a finifhed building than it does now : we might 
 have endured at Icaft, though we could not ha\e 
 praifed it. 
 
 The front of the church in Bifliopfgate-ftreet is, 
 I think, m.ore in tafte than moft about town ; the 
 parts it is coirpofed of are fup-ple, beautiful, and 
 harmonious, and the whole deferves to be admired, 
 for pleafing fo much at fo little cx^tnce. 
 
 From hence we may pafs on to the South Sea 
 Houfe, and there we fhall have fome reafon to won- 
 der that, when tlie tafte of building is fo much im- 
 proved among us, we fee fo little fign of it here.- 
 At the fame expenc^ they might have raifed an 
 edifice, which would have charmed the moft pro- 
 found judges : \ eauty is as cheap as deformity, with 
 refpeci: to the pocket j but it is cader to find money 
 than genius, and that is the reafon fo many build, 
 and' fo few fucceed.* 
 
 The 
 
 f 
 
LONDON. 29 
 
 The ftone front of the new Exclfe Office, in 
 Broad-ftreet, charms us by the air of ftrength and 
 propriety which it pofTefTes. The interior part of 
 this building is convenient, but contains nothing to 
 allure the difintereftcd fpetlator. The Briton will 
 look with regret at the vaft bufinefs tranfacled here, 
 when he confulers that the excife fcheme has ad- 
 vanced fo rapidly in fo few years. A fcheme which, 
 if put in pradice to its full extent, feems to poflefs 
 powers to the annihilation of our boafted freedom. 
 It is not generally known, or attended to, that 
 many dealers are conftrained by law to permit the 
 revenue officers, at pleafure, without rcfpe6l to time 
 or convenience, to enter into any apartment in their 
 houfes; and that any invidious man, who thinks 
 proper to lodge an information againft his neigh- 
 bour, of concealed excifeable goods, may caufe his 
 houfe to be fearched, and himfelf remain undifcovered : 
 that Commiffioners of Excife, Judges till lately un- 
 known to the conititution, determine in cafes of 
 property ; and that excife-officers may examine and 
 difturb, on fufpicion, the baggage, &:c. of travellers, 
 fmce they are generally fupported by government in 
 any fuit at law which may be the confequence of 
 their tyranny. 
 
 This edifice is erc£led upon the ground on which 
 Grefham-college formerly flood. Sir Thomas 
 Grefham, by will, A. D. 1575, left one moiety of 
 the Exchange of London, and other tenements, kc. 
 to the city of London, in truft, among other pur- 
 C 3 pofes. 
 
30 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 pofes, that they fhould find four le^Slurers, for ever, 
 in divinity, geometry, aftronomy, and mufic. The 
 other moiety he left in like manner to the Draper's 
 Company, to find three lecturers, for ever, in civil 
 law, phyfic, and rhetoric. The leclurers were to 
 have apartments in his dwelling-houfe, fince called 
 Grefham-college, at which place the le6lures were 
 to be delivered : and the furplus of the receipts, after 
 payments of lecturers falaries, and feme annual cha- 
 rities, are bequeathed to the truftees for ever. The 
 early profefiors of Grefham-college are well known 
 to all Europe, for their eminent talents and induftry. 
 Henry Briggs, the co-adjutor of Napier, in the 
 calculation of logarithms ; Dr. Hooke, the rival of 
 Newton, and author of the Micrographia ; Dr. 
 Pemberton, editor of the Principia, and many other 
 great men, have done honour to this college. But 
 the ignorance, or carelefihefs, offubfequenttruftees, 
 have fuffered this inftitution to fall into contempt 
 and oblivion. The college is totally deftroyed, and 
 the profeflbrs have apartments in the Royal Ex- 
 change; but the world has long forgot to enquire 
 after them, and they feem willing to enjoy the falary 
 in peaceful obfcurity. 
 
 * Bedlam is well fituated in point of view, and is 
 laid out in a very elegant tafte ; but if I may pre- 
 sume to find fault with it, the middle is not large or 
 magnificent enough for the whole ; and by being 
 exactly the fame, both in fize and decoration, with 
 the v/ingSj feems even lefs, and more Inconfidera- 
 
 ble. 
 
LONDON. 31 
 
 ble, than it really is : neither do the additions make 
 any amends for this inconveniency, or appear of a 
 piece with the reft. The removal of the wall, and 
 entrance farther from the building, has a fine efFe£t, 
 and the ftatues on the top can never be fufficiently 
 admired or praifed, I am of opinion, no fabrick 
 In Europe can boaft finer, either as to propriety of 
 place, or excellency of workmanftiip.' 
 
 This hofpital is appropriated to tlje relief of thofe 
 unhappy objecls, who are ailliilied with the mod 
 fhocking of all difordcrs, madnefs. It was ufual 
 formerly to admit the curious, upon paying a fmall 
 fum ; but the cuftcm being thought pjejudicial to 
 the patients, is now laid afide. The ftatues are by 
 Cibber, father to the well-known poet laureat, 
 Colley Cibber, whom Pope was fo laborious to 
 afperfe. 
 
 Looking acrofs the wide extent of Moorfields^ 
 part of which is inclofed by a contemptible wooden 
 Tail, and the reft wafte and defolate, we behold the 
 -hofpital of St. Luke's, for lunatics : a regular pile- 
 but which, upon the whole, feems rather calculated 
 to add than to diminifli the drearinefs of the fcene. 
 
 Near the upper end of Moorfields is the Artillery- 
 ground and houfe, belonging to the Artillery Com-- 
 pany, of London. In the center of the north fide 
 of a fpacious fquare, walled round, is the armory ; 
 a neat building of brick andftone, ftrengthened witii 
 ruftic quoins at the corners. Before it is a flight of 
 fteps, and there are a few others at the door, which 
 C 4, is 
 
3* TOUR THROUGH 
 
 )S in the center, and is large, lofty, and adorned 
 "with a porch, formed by two Tufcan columns, and 
 two pilafters fupporting a balcony. The front is 
 ornamented with a pediment, fupported at the cor- 
 ners by quoins. On the top are placed feveral 
 large balls, and on the apex of the pediment is a 
 lofty flag-ftafF. On each fide the main building, 
 {lands, at fom.e diftance backwards, a fmall edifice, 
 where the provifions are dreiled at the company's 
 feafts. The hall of the armory is hung round with 
 breaft-plates, helmets, and drums ; and fronting the 
 entrance is a handfome pair of iron-gates, which 
 lead to a fpacicus ftair-cafc, painted with military 
 ornaments, and adorned with the flatue of a man 
 diclTej^ in a compleat fuit of armour ; and the prin- 
 cipal room contains an arrangement of fire-arms, 
 &CC. which, in general, are executed in a fuperior 
 ftyle. 
 
 * The tower of St. Michael's, Cornhill, though 
 in the Gothic ftyle of archite6lure, is undoubt- 
 edly a very magnificent pile of building ; and de- 
 serves, very juftly, to be cfteemed the fineit thing 
 of that fort in London. 
 
 The Royal Exchange is the next ftru6lure of any 
 confequence which demands attention ; and here, as 
 in moft coftly fabricks, there is fomething to blame, 
 and fomething to admire. A building of that ex- 
 tent, grandeur, and elevation, ought, without quef- 
 tion, to have had an ample area before it, that w^e 
 might comprehend the whole and every part at once. 
 
 This 
 
LONDON. 33 
 
 This is a requifite which ought to be allowed to all 
 buildings, but particularly all of this fort; that is 
 to fay, fuch as are formed of very large parts ; for 
 in fuch a cafe, the eye is forced to travel with pain 
 and difficulty from one obje6l to another, nay, fome- 
 times obliged to divide one into many parts, v/here- 
 by the judgment is confufed, and it is with great 
 uncertainty we come to any conclufion at all. Up- 
 on the whole, the entrance into this building is very 
 grand and auguft; the two ftatues which adorn it are, 
 in a particular manner, beautiful and admirable ; 
 but then the tower which arifes over it is a weight 
 to the whole building, and is, at tHe fame time, 
 broken into fo many parts, that it rather hurts than 
 pleafes ; and if reduced to one half of its prefent 
 height, would harmonize abundantly better with the 
 whole. The infide is light and airy, laid out in a 
 very good ftile, and finiflied with great propriety of 
 decoration. I could wifti though, that either the 
 ftatues were executed in a better manner, or that 
 the city would condefcend to exciffe the fetting up 
 any morej for nothing can be more ridiculous, than 
 to hurt the eye with a fault in the afleclation of 
 beauty. 
 
 The building erected for the Bank is liable to the 
 very fame objection, in point of place, v/ith the Ex- 
 change, and even in a greater too. It is monftroufly 
 crowded on the eye, and unlefs the oppofite houfes 
 could be pulled down, and a view opened into Corn- 
 hill, we might as well be entertained with a profpe(9: 
 C 5 of 
 
34 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 of the model through a microfcope. As to the 
 ftrufture itfelf, it is grand and extenfive; the ar- 
 ehiteil has a very good tafte of beauty, and only 
 feems to be rather too fond of decoration ; this ap- , 
 pears pretty eminently by the weight of his cornices, 
 which appear, in my opinion, to be rather too heavy 
 for the building; though, upon the whole, both he 
 ^nd his work deferves abundantly more applaufe than 
 cenfure.' 
 
 Convenience, which is undoubtedly the firft ob- 
 je6i: in building, has been aimed at by the architedl:. 
 He has made the great hall in the form of a circular 
 dome, illuminated by a fky-light ; and feveral of the 
 other offices for transferring ftock, &c. have as 
 much analogy to this figure as could eafily be ad- 
 mitted of. It is a trite obfervation, that a dome, 
 by filling the fight at once with a view of a great 
 part of an edifice, is calculated to pleafe univerfally 
 the vulgar, as well as the man of tafte and refine- 
 ment. On this principle the rooms pleafe the eye; 
 but their utility or convenience is not fo obvious. 
 It is not eafy to conceive, that the doors, which are 
 comparatively very fmall to the fize of the apart- 
 ments, many of which have but one, can promote 
 tliat circulation of air which is abfolutely neceffary 
 to health. The great hall, for example, has no more 
 than two fmall doors, and is occupied for a confi- 
 tjerable part of the day by a herd of bulls, bears, and 
 other cattle of Exchange-alley; which, together 
 with a Igrge iron warming-machine, muft vitiate 
 
 th« 
 
LONDON. 35 
 
 the air in a very great degree. A provlfion ought 
 to have been made for renewing it. 
 
 ' It is but natural, to lament, that ways and means 
 could not be found out to ere6l this building on one 
 fide of Charlotte-row, and that of the lord mayor 
 on the other; two fuch magnificent ftrudlures as 
 thcfe, in conjunction with the church on the fouth 
 fide, would have made this a kind of center of beauty 
 to the city, and each hadfet off and adorned the other. 
 
 It is impoiuble to quit this place, without taking 
 notice of the equeftrian ftatue raifed here in ho- 
 nour of Charles II. a thing in itfelf fo ridiculous 
 and abfurd, it is not in one's power to look up- 
 on it without reflefting on the tafte of thofe who 
 fet it up ; but when v^^e enquire into the hiftory of 
 it, the farce improves upon our hands, and what 
 was before contemptible grows entertaining. This 
 ftatue v/as originally made for John Sobiefki, king 
 of Poland, but by fome accident, was left upon ttie 
 workman's hands. About the fame time the city 
 was loyal enough to pay their devoirs to king Charles, 
 immediately upon his reftoration; and finding this 
 ftatue ready made to their hands, refolved to do it 
 the cheapeft way, and convert the Polander into a 
 Briton, and a Turk, underneath his horfe, into 
 Oliver Cromwell, to make their compliment com- 
 pleat. In this very manner it appears at prefent, 
 and the turband upon the lail mentioned figure is 
 yet an undeniable proof of the truth of the flory.' 
 
 C 6 This 
 
36 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 This llatue was ere<Eled at the fole expsnce of Sir 
 Robert Viner, alderman, knight and baronet; but 
 it was removed, together with all the market flails, 
 in the year 1738, in order to make room for the pre- 
 fent manfion-houfe. 
 
 The city of London cannot be accufed of any 
 great difplay of tafte and judgment in the eredlion of 
 their manfion-houfe. Inftead of chufmg the pro- 
 pofed fpot betweeen the ends of Patcr-nofter-row 
 and Newgate-ftreet, where a public building would 
 have been feen to the higheft advantage, terminating 
 the view along Cheapfide, and have ftood beautifully 
 detached, they have crammed this malTy edifice into 
 a corner where it cannot be feen, among buildings 
 which are admirably placed to feclude the light from 
 the apartments ; and the architedl, to fecond their 
 intention, has loaded the front with a portico, which 
 as efFe£tuaiiy fhades the windov/s on that fide. In 
 fa(5l, when we contemplate this ftru6lure, its heavy 
 and ponderous appearance, its want of elegance, 
 and a certain air of clumfinefs that pervades the 
 whole, gives us very little reafon to regret its being 
 placed out of fight. 
 
 The following anecdote is related concerning the 
 building of the manfion houfe, and feems no bad 
 companion to Sir Robert Viner's ftatue of Charles II. 
 
 When it was refolved in the common council to 
 build a manfion-houfc for the lord mayor, lord Bur- 
 lington, zealous in the caufe of the arts, fent dov/n 
 an original defign of Paliadio, worthy of its au- 
 thor, 
 
LONDON. 37 
 
 thor, for their approbation and adoption. The firflr 
 qiicftion in court was not, whether this plan was 
 proper, but whether this fame Palladlo was a free- 
 man of the city or no. On this great debates en- 
 fued, and it is hard to fay how it might have gone, 
 had not a worthy deputy rifen up and obferved 
 gravely, that it was of little confequence to dlfcufs 
 this point, when it was notorious, that Palladio was 
 a papift, and Incapable of courfe. Lord Burling- 
 ton's propofal was then reje^led nejn. coyi. and the 
 plan of a freeman and a proteftant adopted in its 
 room. The man pitched upon, who afterwards 
 carried his plan into execution, was originally a 
 ihipwright, and to do him juftice, he appears never 
 to have loft fight of his firll; profefTion. The front 
 of his manfion-houfe has all the refemblance poffi- 
 b!e to a deep laden Indiaman, with her ftern galleries 
 and gingerbread work. The flairs and paflages 
 within are all ladders and gangways, and the fuper- 
 ftrudture at top anfwers pretty accurately to the idea 
 we ufually form of Noah's ark. 
 
 But however little we may be inclined to regret 
 the fecluded fituation of the manfion-houfe, we can- 
 not but deplore, that the church of St. Stephen's 
 Walbrook fliould be hid behind it. The merit of 
 this edifice is now univerfally known, but it was 
 not fo in the time of our author, who fpeaks thus 
 concerning it : 
 
 ' The church in Walbrook, fo little known among 
 us, is famous all over Europe, -and is juftly reputed 
 
 the 
 
2$^ TOUR THROUGH 
 
 the mafler-piece of the celebrated Sir Chrlftopher 
 Wren. Perhaps Italy itfelf can produce no modern 
 building, that can vie with this in tafte or propor- 
 tion. There is not a beauty which the plan would 
 admit of, that is not to be found here in its greateft 
 perfection ; and foreigners very juftly call our judge- 
 ment in queftion for underftanding its graces no 
 better, and allowing it no higher degree of fame.' 
 
 At the lower end of King-ftreet, Cheapfide, ftands 
 Guildhall, for holding the courts, and tranfafting 
 the bufinefs of the city. It was finifhed in the year 
 1 42 1, and is in a very contemptible Gothic ftilc, 
 Notwithftanding its great advantage in fituation it 
 has a mean appearance. The trifling and ill-judged 
 varietyof parts prevents all its effecSl at a diftancej and 
 on a nearer view we perceive, that thcTe parts are 
 difgufting and void of beauty, whether v.'e confi- 
 der them cone61:iveIy or feparately. The four fmall 
 ftatues in niches on each fide of the gate, and vul- 
 garly fuppofed to reprefent the cardinal virtues, have 
 fome merit. 
 
 Guildhall has very little cffccl on the fpectator 
 who enters h; the entrance being on one fide, pre- 
 vents the perfpedtive being fecn to any advantage. 
 The fteps which lead to the courts are aukwardly 
 fituated on one fide of the principal entrance, in- 
 ftead of being dire6tly oppofitej and the two gigan- 
 tic figures which are placed in the balcony, afford 
 matter of contempt and derifion to every fpeclator 
 who has the leaft idea of propriety. Thefe mon- 
 I ftrous 
 
LONDON. 39 
 
 ftrous abfurdities are fuppofed to reprefent a Britoti 
 and a Saxon. 
 
 The ftatue of alderman Beckford, at the weft end 
 of the hall, is finely fituated, and is a great addition 
 to the place. Whether a fancy drapery would not 
 have admitted of more elegance than a lord mayor's 
 robe, is a matter that it is now too late to enquire 
 into; but the ftatuary is worthy of commendation 
 for fucceeding fo well in this figure, confidering the 
 difficulties he had to encounter. The fitting figures 
 have very little grace, either in themfelves or their 
 attitudes. 
 
 * The fteeple of Bow church is a mafter- 
 piece, in a peculiar kind of building, which has na 
 fixed rules to direct it, nor is it to be reduced to any 
 fettled laws of beauty: without doubt, if we con*- 
 fider it only as a part of fome other building, it can 
 be efteemed no other than a delightful abfurdity; 
 buteither confideredin itfeIf,orasa decoration of the 
 whole city inprofpe6l,not only to bejuftified, bat ad- 
 mired. That which we have now mentioned, is be- 
 yond queftion as perfeft as human imagination caa 
 contrive or e;xecute — and till we fee it outdone, we 
 Ihail hardly think it to be equalled. 
 
 In a place like London, where fo many decora- 
 tions are wanted, fo fev/ are to be found, and even 
 fo little room to increafe their number, one is forced 
 to regret any opportunity which is negle£led, or any 
 fpace which is not improved as it ought. It is cer- 
 tain, that no fpot is better fituated for a ftatue than 
 
 that 
 
^Q TOUR THROUGH 
 
 that where Cheapfide conduit formerly flood ; and as 
 no king ever defcrvcd that honour more from his 
 people than the immortal William III. I think all 
 party difputes ought to have been dropt, ajid the 
 whole city agreed to pay a compliment to themfelves 
 by doing that juftice to him. 
 
 We are now come as far as where the conduit 
 formerly flood in Cheapfide, and before I leave this 
 place, I thijik it proper to recommend the fteeple of 
 Fofter-laiie to the attention of the paflenger. It is 
 not a glr^ring pile, that ftrikes the eye at the firft view 
 with an idea of grandeur and magnificence; but 
 then the beautiful pyramid it forms, andthejuft and 
 well proportioned fimplicity of all its parts, fatisfics 
 the mind fo effe6^ually, that nothing feems to be 
 wanting, and -nothing can be fpared.* 
 
 MORN- 
 
L O N DON. 
 
 41 
 
 MORNING III. 
 
 AFTER furveying the cathedral of St. Paul, 
 we ihall take a {hort walk in the adjacent 
 part of the city, palling round the church-yard to 
 the eaftward : from whence we fhall crofs Patcr- 
 nofter Row and Newgate-ftreet, through Chrift's- 
 hofpital, to Smithfield and Charterhoufe-fquare, and 
 return through the Old Bailey to Fleet Market. 
 
 ' The grand cathedral of St. Paul's is, undoubt- 
 edly, one of the moft magnificent modern buildings 
 in Europe ; all the parts of which it is compofed 
 are fuperlatively beautiful and noble ; the north and 
 fouth fronts, in particular, are very perfeiSl pieces 
 of architecture, neither ought the eaft to go without 
 due applaufe. 
 
 The two fpires at the weft end are In a finiflied 
 tafte, and the portico with the afcent, and the dome 
 that rifcs in the center of the whole, afford a very 
 auguft and furprifmg profpeil : but ftill, with all 
 thefe beauties, it has certainly yet more defeats ; 
 and the pleafure we receive from the firft, is fo much 
 qualified and tamed by the laft, that we rather won- 
 der how we can be pleafed fo much, than why we 
 are difpleafed at all. But not to condemn in the 
 
 grofs. 
 
42 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 grofs, I'll take the liberty to touch upon a few par- 
 ticulars, and lay myfelf juftly open to cenfure, in 
 cafe I miftake, or blame in the wrong place. 
 
 In the firft place, therefore, there is a moit noto- 
 rious deficiency in point of view ; fuch a huge fa- 
 brick as St. Paul's ought, at Icaft, to be furveyed 
 at the diftance of Temple-Bar, and the viita ought 
 to be confiderably wider than the front of the build- 
 ing ; but this is fo far from the cafe here, that wc 
 cannot fee it till we are upon it : and this defeiSt is 
 flill made worfe, by turning the edifice from the 
 eye, even where it can be viewed, for the fake of 
 that ridiculous fuperftition of eredting it due eaft 
 and weft. In the next place, the dividing the por- 
 tico, and, indeed, the whole ftrudlure into two 
 ftories on the outfide, certainly indicates a like di- 
 vifion within : a circumftance abounding with ab- 
 furdities, and defeating even the very end of ereiling 
 it at all. If, indeed, the architeft had been embar- 
 rafl'ed to reconcile the diftance and height of his 
 column, I am humbly of opinion, that a light and 
 proper attick ftory had anfwered all ends, both of 
 ufe and beauty, and left him room to have enlarged 
 his imagination, and have given an air of majefty 
 to the whole. Let me add, that I apprehend the 
 portico fhouid have been farther proje6ted on the 
 eye inftead of retreating from it, in order to have 
 given a grand contraft to the whole front, and added 
 the perfpeilive within. 
 
 I fliall 
 
LONDON. 43 
 
 I fhall fay no more on the outfide than this, that, 
 according to my beft notions of regularity and order, 
 the dome fhould have been raifed exa<5lly in the 
 center of the whole, and that there fliould have been 
 two correfponding fteeples at the eaft, as well as 
 the weft, and with all other fuitable decorations : 
 if a view of the whole length of the building too 
 could have been opened to the water- fide, it would 
 have added greatly to its grandeur and magnificence, 
 and have aitorded a moft noble profpetSl from off 
 the river into the bargain. However odd or new 
 the firft of thefe propofitionsmayfeem, let any body 
 take a view of St. Paul's from any of the neigh- 
 bouring hills, and they will inftantly difcern that 
 the building is defective, and that the form of a 
 crofs is more favourable to fuperfliition than beauty : 
 in a word, they will eafily fee, at leaft, that the 
 dome, in its prefent circumftances, is abundantly 
 too big for the reft of the pile, and that the weft 
 end has no rational pretence to finer and more 
 fplcndid decorations than the eaft. Before we begin 
 our examination of the infide of St. Paul's, it will 
 not be amifs to eaft an eye on the ftatue in the area 
 before it, ere6led in honour of the late queen. 
 
 It ftands exactly in the front of the building, 
 though it feems, by the odd fituation of Ludgate- 
 ftreet, to be on one fide, and is, upon the whole, 
 modelled in a tolerable tafte, and executed as well : 
 the principal figure indeed, the queen herfelf, is aa 
 exception to this charader j fuch a formal Gothic 
 
 habit. 
 
44 TOUR T H R O U G H >'■ 
 
 habit, and ftifF, afFeded attitude, are neither to be 
 endiired or pardoned, and there is not one of thofe 
 round the bafe that does not juftly deferve the pre- 
 ference. 
 
 Whoever underftands the nature of public orna- 
 mental buildings critically, always lays it down for 
 a rule, that they csnnot be too expenfive or mag- 
 nificent; for which reafon St. Paul's is fo much 
 from being admired, for being fo grand and auguft 
 as it is, that nothing is more common than to hear 
 it cenfured for not being more {o. Every body 
 knows that the fund which raifed it from its ruins 
 to its prcfent glory, was equal to any defrgn of 
 majefty or beauty ; and as thofe who had it in truft 
 ■went fo far to this neceflary end, it is a thoufand 
 pities they did not carry it on much farther, and 
 make this pile not only the ornament of Britain, 
 but the admiration and envy of all Europe. St. 
 Peter's, at Rome, was already built ; a model which 
 the moft finilhed architect need not have been 
 afhamed to imitate : and as all its particular beauties 
 have been long publicly known and admired, I 
 think it was incumbent on us to equalled it at leaft ; 
 and if we had excelled it too, it would have been 
 no more than m.ight have been reafonably expected 
 from fuch a nation as ours, and fuch a genius as 
 Wren. 
 
 On thefe principles it is that men of tafte and 
 underftanding are furprized, at entering this church, 
 to fee (o many faults, and mifs fo many beauties : 
 
 they 
 
LONDON. 45 
 
 they difcover, at once, that it wants elevation to give 
 it proportionable grandeur, and length to aflift the 
 perlpeciive : that the columns are heavy and cluaify 
 to a prodigious degree, and rather incumber the 
 profpe£t than enrich it with fymmetry and beauty ; 
 half the necelliiry breaks of light and fliadow are 
 hereby wanting, and half the perfpe6live in general 
 cut oit; at the fame time I don't deny, but many 
 parts of the decoration are exceedingly grand and 
 noble, and demand, veryjuilly, a fincere applaufe. 
 The dome is, without quellion, a very ftupendcus 
 fabrick, and ftrikes the eye with an aftonifhing 
 pleafure : it is, indeed, one of thofe happy kinds of 
 building that pleafe all kinds of people alike, from 
 the moft ignorant clown up to the moii accom- 
 pliilied gentleman. But yet even here the judge 
 cannot help taking notice, that it bears no proportidn 
 to the reft of the building, and that after you have 
 feen this you can look at no other part of it ; 
 whereas a judicious builder would hufband his ima- 
 gination, and flill have fomething in referve to de- 
 light the mind, though nothing, perhaps, could be 
 contrived to furprize after it. For example, the 
 very nature of a choir would not admit of any thing 
 fo marvellous as the dome, yet it might have re- 
 lieved the eye with fomething equivalently beautiful j 
 the entrance in front m.ight have been more noble 
 and uniform ; either com.pofed of wood er.tirelv, or 
 marble ; for the prefent mixture of Loth makes a 
 difagreeable piece of patch work, tlmt rather difgufts 
 
 than 
 
46 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 than entertains. The opening on the infide, through 
 the prefcnt beautiful range of ftalls, might have ter- 
 minated in a much more magnificent alcove than 
 we fee there at prefent, adorned with all the ele- 
 gance and profufion of decoration j the altar Ihould 
 have been raifed of the r'.cheft marble in the moft 
 expenfive taflc, that it might have been of a piece 
 with the reft of the church, and terminated the 
 view of the whole with all the graces of the moft 
 luxuriant imagination : all the intermediate fpaces 
 fhould have been filled up with nobleft hiftorical 
 paintings ; all the majerty of frize-work, cornice, 
 and carving, heightened with the moft coftly gild- 
 ings, fhould have been lavifticd to adorn it ; and one 
 grand flow of magnificent curtain depended from 
 the windows to finifli and adorn the fame. Thus 
 have I been free enough to give my impartial opi- 
 nion of St. Paul's, I hope not too prefumptuoufly ; 
 and if ignorantly, let every reader's private judge- 
 ment fet me right.' 
 
 A refolution being taken to build a new cathedral, 
 which ftiould equal, if not exceed, the magnificence 
 and fplendor of the old fabric. Sir Chriftopher Wren 
 was ordered to prepare a defign, and caufe a model 
 thereof to be made as a rule and diredtion for the 
 whole work. To raife a fund fufficient to carry the 
 work into execution, the chamber of London was 
 made an office for the receipt of contributions to 
 defray the expence; into which, in lo years only, 
 was paid the fum of 126,000!. king Charles II. ge- 
 
 neroufly 
 
LONDON. 47 
 
 neroufly giving loool. a year out of his privy-purfe, 
 befidesanewdutyoncoals, which produced 5000). a 
 year, over and above all other grants in its favour^ 
 fo that the legacies, fubfcriptions, &c. continually 
 coming in, amounted to more money than the pur- 
 pofes required. 
 
 Sir Chriftopher prepared a defign antique and 
 well ftudied, conformable to the bcft ftile of the 
 Greek and Roman architedlure; which the bifliops 
 difapproved of, as they thought it not enough in the 
 cathedral fafhion. He then produced the fcheme of 
 the prefent ftrufture, which was approved of. 
 
 In digging its foundation, Sir Chriftopher, to his 
 great mortification, in extending his lines to the 
 north-eaft, v/hen he wanted but fix or feven feet to 
 complete his defign, fell upon a pit, where the pot- 
 ters of old time had taken their pot-earth from, and 
 filled up the hole with broken fragments of urns, 
 vafes, and fuch like rubbifli. This obliged him to 
 dig through the fand to the depth of 40 feet at leaft, 
 to the folid earth; he therefore funk a pit 18 feet 
 wide, (though he wanted at moft but feven) through 
 all the ftrata, and laid the foundations of a fquare 
 pier of folid mafonry upon the hard fca beach that 
 covered the original clay, which he raifed within 15 
 feet of the prefent furface, and then turned a fhort 
 arch under-ground to the level of the ftratum of the 
 hard pot-earth, upon which arch the north-eaft coin 
 of the choir of St. Paul's now ftands. 
 
 All 
 
48 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 All things being prepared, and many difficulticis 
 lurmounted, in pulling down, clearing away. Sec. 
 Sir Chriftopher Wren laid the firft ftone on the 2ii\. 
 day of June, 1675, in the reign of Charles II. 
 
 The foundations being laid, Portland ftone was 
 made choice of to complete the fuperftru6ture, as 
 thofe from thence were of the largett fcantlings; yet 
 thefe could not be prefumed upon for columns ex- 
 ceeding four feet in diameter: this determined Sir 
 Chriftopher to make choice of two orders, inftead 
 of one, and an ^ttic ftory, as St. Peter's at Rome, 
 in order to profervc the juft proportions of his cor- 
 nice, otherv/ife the fabric would have fallen (hort 
 of its intended height. On thefe principles there- 
 fore he proceeded, and raifcd the lofty edifice we 
 now fee. 
 
 The lower divifion of the building is adorned 
 ■witii a range of double pilafters, with their entabla- 
 tures of the Corinthian order; and as many of the 
 Compofite, or Roman order, ornament the upper. 
 
 The fpaces between the arches of the windows, 
 and the architrave of the lov/er order, are filled with 
 great variety of curious enrichments ; as arc thofe 
 likewife above. 
 
 On the weft front is erected a moft magnificent 
 portico, graced with two ftately turrets and a pedi- 
 ment, enriched with fculpture. 
 
 The columns of this portico are doubled; two 
 columns are brought nearer together to make greater 
 intercolumns alternately, and to give a proper fpacc 
 
 t« 
 
LONDON. 49 
 
 to three doors ; the two fidc-doors for daily ufe, and 
 the middle for folemnities : the columns are widen- 
 ed to make a free and commodious paflao;e to each, 
 which is gracefully done by placing the pillars alter- 
 nately wide and clofe. 
 
 The entrance to the north and fonth is likewifc 
 by two magnificent porticos. 
 
 The eaft end is beautified by a noble piece of 
 carving, in honour of king William III. 
 
 Over all is a dome, terminated by a lantern, ball, 
 and crofs. 
 
 The pilafters of the outfide are doubled, which 
 ferve as buttrefles, and give fpace to large windows 
 between; they alfo adjuft the arcades within, and 
 regulate the roof. 
 
 This cathedral is built in form of a crofs. The 
 tlimenfions from eaft to weft, within the walls, are 
 500 feet; from north to fouth, within the doors of 
 the porticos, 223 feet; the breadth, at the entrance, 
 100 feet; its circuit, 2292 feet; its height within, 
 1 10 feet; to the upper gallery, 266 feet; to the top 
 of the crofs, 64 feet; from the level of the ground 
 to the top, 440 feet ; the diameter of the dome is 
 108 feet, of the ball fix feet; the diameter of the 
 <;olumns of the porticos, four feet; their height, 
 48 feet. To the top of the weft pediment, under 
 the figure of St. Paul, is 120 feet. The height of 
 the towers, at the weft front, is 280 feet. The. 
 length of the mirmte-hand, on the dial, eight feet j 
 D of 
 
50 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 of the hour-hand, five feet five inches ; of the hour- 
 figures, two feet {even inches. 
 
 Ihc whole cathedral fiands on two acres, i6 
 perches, 23 yards, and one foot of ground. 
 
 This vaft fabric is furroundcd with about 2500 
 flrong iron palifadoes; and in the area of the grand 
 weft front, on a pcdcftal, ftands a ftatue cf queen 
 Anne ; the figures on the bafe reprefent Britannia, 
 with her fpear; Gallia, with a crown on her lapj 
 Hibernia, with her harp ; and America, with her 
 bow: the workmanfliip of the ingenious Mr. Hill, 
 who was chiefly employed in all the dccora'aons. 
 By this gentleman were performed thofe fine ftatues 
 and carvings, that add fuch fpirit and bea-ity to the 
 whole J the lively reprefentation of St, Paul's con- 
 vcrfion, carved in relief on the pediment of the 
 principal front; the majeftic figure of St. Paul, on 
 the apex of the pediment, with St. Peter on his 
 right, and St. James on his left; the four evange- 
 lifts, with their proper emblems, on the front of the 
 towers.— St. Matthew is diftinguifhed by an angel, 
 St. Mark by a lion, St. Luke by an ox, and St. 
 John by an eagle. On the pediment, over the north 
 portico, the royal arms with the regalia, fupported 
 by angels, with tiie flatues of five of the apoftles. 
 On the pediment, over the fouth portico, a phcenix 
 rifing out of the flames, with the word resurgam 
 underneath it : this device, perhaps, had its origin 
 from the following incident: Sir Chriftophcr having 
 fixed upon the place for the center of the great 
 
 dome, 
 
 I 
 
LONDON. 5r 
 
 dome, 2 labourer v/as ordered to bring him a flat 
 ftoiie from among the rubbifti, to leave as a mark 
 of direction to the mafons; the finl the fellow came 
 at happened to be a grave-ftone, with nothing re- 
 maining of the infcription but the word resur- 
 GAM, which was remarked by the archite6l as a fa- 
 vourable omen. On this fide of the building zrs 
 five ftatues, which take their fituation from that 
 ot St. Andrev/, on the apex of the pediment juft 
 mentioned. 
 
 The higheft, or lafl ftone, on the top of the 
 lantern, was laidbyChriftopherWren,thefurveyor's 
 (on, in the reign of queen Anne, 1710, in the pre- 
 fence of Mr. Strong, the principal mafon, and others 
 chiefly employed in the execution of the work. 
 
 Thus, in 35 years, v/as this mighty fabric, 
 lofty enough to be fcen at fea eadward, and at Wind- 
 for weftward, begun and finifhed by one architect, 
 one principal mafon, and under one bifhop of Lon- 
 don, Dr. Henry Compton : the charge was fupport- 
 ed chiefly by a fmall and eafy impofition on fea-coal. 
 
 Within this cathedral arc three ailes. The 
 vault is hemifpherical, confifting of 24 cupolas, cut 
 off femicircular, with fegments to join to the great 
 arches one way, and the other way they are cut 
 acrofs v/ith eliptical cylinders, to let in the upper 
 lights of the nave; but in the ailes, the lefl'er cu- 
 polas are cut both ways in femicircular fedions, and 
 altogether make a graceful geometrical form, dif- 
 tinguifiied with circular wreaths, which is the hori- 
 D 2 7.ont;d 
 
52 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 zontal feilion of the cupola. The arches and 
 wreaths are of ftone, carved j the fpandrels between 
 are of found brick, invcfted with ftucco of cockle- 
 fnell lime, which becomes as hard as Portland-ftone ; 
 and which, having large planes between the ftone 
 ribs, are capable of further ornaments of painting, 
 if required. Befides thefe 24 cupolas, there is a 
 half cupola at tiie eaft, and the great cupola of 108 
 feet diameter in the middle of the croffing of the 
 great ailes; it is extant out of the wall, and is very 
 lightfome by the windows of the upper order, which 
 ilrike dov/n the light through the great colonade 
 that encircles the dome without, and ferves for the 
 butment of the dome, which is brick, of two bricks 
 thick; but as it rifes every way five feet high, has a 
 courfe of excellent brick of 18 inches long, bend- 
 ing through the whole thickncfs; and to makeitflill 
 more fecure, it is furrounded with a vaft chain of 
 iron, ftrongly linked together at every 10 feet: this 
 chain is let into a channel cut into the bandage of 
 Portland-ftone, and defended from the weather by 
 iillinff the groove with lead. Over the firft cupola 
 is raifed another ftruclure of a cone of bricks, fo 
 built as to fupport a ftone lantern of an elegant fi- 
 gure, and ending in ornaments of copper, gilt; the 
 v/hole church above the vaulting being covered with 
 a fubftantial oaken roof and lead, fo this cone is co- 
 vered and hid out of fight by another cupola of tim- 
 b r and le-id; between which and the cone are eafy 
 ftairs, which afcend to the lantern. The contrivance 
 
 here 
 
LONDON. S3 
 
 here is aftonifliing. The light to thefc flairs is from 
 the lantern above, and round the pedeftal of the 
 fame. 
 
 As Sir Chriftopher was fenfible, that painting?;, 
 however excellent, are liable to decay, he intended to 
 have beautified the infide of the cupola with mofaic 
 work, which ftrikes the eye of the beholder with 
 amazing luftre; and, without the leaft decay of co- 
 lours, is as durable as the buildir.g itf^lfj but in this 
 he was unhappily over-ruled, though he had under- 
 taken to procure four of the moil eminent artiils in 
 that profclTion from Italy. 
 
 The innde of the cupola is painted and richly 
 decorated, by that eminent Englifh artift Sir James 
 Thornhillj who, in eight corripartments, has re- 
 prefented the principal paffages in the hiftory of St. 
 Paul's life; namely, his converfion; his punifhing 
 Elymas the forcerer with blindncfs ; his preaching at 
 Athens; his curing the poor cripple at Lyftra, and 
 the reverence there paid him by the pricils of Ju- 
 piter as a god ; his converfion of the gaoler ; his 
 preaching at Ephefus, and the burning the magic 
 books in confequence of the miracles he there 
 wrought; his trial before Agrippa ; his ftiipwreck 
 on the ifland of Melita, or Malta; and his miracle 
 of the viper. 
 
 Befules the choir, the flails of which are very 
 beautifully carved, and the other ornaments of 
 - equal workmanfhip, there is a morning-prayer cha- 
 pel, where divine fervice is performed every dav, 
 D 3 Sundays 
 
54 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 Sundays excepted j end oppoute it, the cor.fiftory j 
 er.ch of which has a mr.gnificent fcreen of carved 
 wainfcot, and has hzen gready admired by the cu- 
 rious, as has the carving of the {lately figures that 
 adorn the organ-cafe. 
 
 In the center of the crofs-aile, where -is fixed a 
 brafs plate, you have a fuJ view of the cupola or 
 dome, r.:-.d of the \yhifperin^;-^allery. 
 
 The choir, the ailcs en each fide of it, and the 
 organ, are inclofed vv^ith beautiful iron raii: i:nd gates. 
 
 The organ-gallery is fupportcd witii Connthian 
 columns of blue and white marble. The choir has 
 on each fide 30 ftalls, befides thebiftiop's throne on 
 the fouth fide, and on the north, the lord mayor's. 
 — The reader's delk is inclofed with very fine brafs 
 rails, gilt, in which is a gilt brafs pillar, fupporting 
 an eagle of brafs, gilt, which holds the book on its 
 back and expanded wings. — The altar-piece is adorn- 
 ed with four noble fluted pilafters, painted and vein- 
 ed with gold, in imitation of lapis lazuli ; and their 
 capitals are double gilt. — In the intercolumniations 
 are 21 pannels of figured crimfon velvet. 
 
 All the floor of the church and choir to the altar 
 rails is paved with marble; the altar is paved with 
 porphyry, polifhed, and laid in feveral geometrical 
 figures. 
 
 The colours hanging in the body of the cathe- 
 dral, over the weftern entrance, were taken from 
 the French at Louifbourgh, in 1758. Tliey confift 
 of an artillery ftandi^.rd, white and gold 3 one pair 
 
 of 
 
LONDON. 55 
 
 of Spanifh ragged ftaves; one pair of Swifs cnfigii 
 colours, green and v/hite ; two pair of enfign co- 
 lours, blue and white ; and two ftaves without co- 
 lours. 
 
 Of the Curiosities which ftrarigers pay to fee. 
 
 Of the Golden-Gallery, price two-pence each 
 perfon. 
 
 Entring at the fouth door, on your left hand are 
 the ftairs, by which you afcend the cupola, which 
 lead to this gallery by 534 Heps, 260 of which are 
 fo eafy, that a child iriay afcend them ; but tho(e 
 above are unpleafant, and in fome places exceeding 
 dark, particularly, between the brick cone, and the 
 outer cafe of the dome; but what light you have, 
 affords you an amazing proof the architedi's con- 
 trivance. From this gallery you have a fine pro- 
 fpecl of the river, city, and country round, which, 
 in a clear day, difcovers a pleafing variety, with 
 which many remain fatisfied, and never attempt to 
 go higher. 
 
 Of the Whispering-Gallery, price two-pence 
 each perfon. 
 
 To this gallery you will be invited in your de- 
 
 fcent : from hence you have the moft advantageous 
 
 view of the fine paintings in the cupola ; there is an 
 
 eafy afcent to this gallery for perfons of note, by a 
 
 D 4 moft 
 
56 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 mofl beautiful flight of ftairs, not to be exceeded : 
 here founds are enlarged to an amazing degree j the 
 Ihutting of the door feems as loud as thunder at a 
 diftancej the leaft whifper is heard round the whole 
 circumference, even the ticking of a watch ; and 
 one perfon fpcaking againft the wall, on this fide, 
 appears to be prefent to another on the other fide, 
 though the dillance between them is no lefs than 
 143 feet. 
 
 Of the Library, price two-pence each perfon. 
 
 The flooring whereof is, indeed, the greateft 
 curiofity in it, which is moft artfully inlaid without 
 either nails or pegs, like the framing of a billiard- 
 table; the books are neither numerous nor valu- 
 able j but the wainfcotting, and cafes for their re- 
 ception, want neither elegance nor convenience. 
 There is here a fine painting of bifhop Compton, 
 under whom the cathedral was built. 
 
 Of Sir Chriftopher Wren's firft Model for build- 
 ing this Cathedral, price two-pence each perfon. 
 
 It is a miftake that this model was taken from 
 St. Peter's at Rome ; it was his own invention, 
 laboured with much ftudy, and, as he thought, 
 finiflied with good fuccefs. This defign, which is 
 of one order onlj', the Corinthian, like St. Peter's 
 at Rome, the furveyor fet a higher value upon than 
 any he drew ; but it was not approved of by the 
 
 bifhops. 
 
LONDON. ^r 
 
 bifhops. Pity it is, that fo valuable a fragment 
 of the utmoft exertion of this great man's genius 
 fhould be fufFcrcd to run to decay. 
 
 Of the Great Bell, price two-pence each 
 perion. 
 
 This is in the fouth tower, and weighs eighty- 
 four hundred weight. On this bell the hammer of 
 the great clock ftrikes the hour ; and on the kflcr 
 bell the quarters are ftruck. The found of both 
 are (o exceflive loud, that tender ears are much 
 affected if either happens to ftrike while near them. 
 The found of the great bell is faid to have been, 
 heard as far as Windfor. 
 
 Of the Geometry Stairs, price two-pence each 
 perfon. 
 
 This is the laft curlofity fliewn. It is a flight 
 of rtairs, the fteps of which are fo contrived, as ta 
 hang together, without any vifible fupport. Stairs^ 
 on this conftru£lion_, are now very common ia 
 England. 
 
 The whole expence of ereiiing this fuperb edi- 
 fice amounted to the fum of 735,752!. is. 3d.* 
 
 On St. Bennet's-hill, to the fouth-weft of Su 
 Paul's cathedral, ftands the Herald's-ofHce, or 
 College -of Arms, the place of refidence of the 
 king?, heralds, and purfuivants at arms, who form 
 a corporate body, confifting of thirteen members. 
 D 5 This 
 
58 TOUR THROUGFT 
 
 This office was cleftroyed by the general conflagra- 
 tion in 1666, and rebuilt about three years after. 
 It is a fquare, inclofed by regular brick buildings, 
 which are extremely neat, without cxpenfive deco- 
 rations. The floors are raifed above the ground, 
 and there is an afcent to them bv flights of plain 
 fteps. The principal front is in the lower ftory, 
 ornamented with ruftic, upon which are placed 
 four Ionic pilafters, that fupport an angular pcdi- 
 jnent. The fides, which are conformable to thi«, 
 have arched pediments. On the infide is a large 
 room for keeping the court &f honour ; a library, 
 \vith houfes and apartments. 
 
 Not far from hence, in Great Knight Rider- 
 ftreet, is Do£lor's Commons, a college for the 
 jftudy and practice of the civil law, where courts 
 are kept for the trial of civil and ecclefiaftical caufes, 
 under the archbifhop of Canterbury and the bifhop 
 of London ; as is the Court of Arches, and the 
 Prerogative Court. There are alfo offices in which 
 wills are depofited and fearched, and a Court of Fa- 
 culties and Difpenfations. Caufes are likewife tried 
 here by the Court of Admiralty, and that of Dele- 
 gates. 
 
 The caufes of which the civil and ecclefiaftical 
 5aw do, or may, take cognizance, are blafphemy, 
 cpoftacy from chriftianity, herefy, ordinations, in- 
 fl-itutions of cleiks to benefices, celebration of divine 
 fcrvice, matrimony, divorces, baftardy, tythes, obla- 
 tions, obver.tions, r.iortuaries,. dilapidations, repa- 
 ration 
 
LONDON. 59 
 
 ration of churches, probate of wills, admin'vftrations, 
 fimony, inceft, fornication, adultery, folicitation ot 
 chaftlty, penfions, procuration?, commutation of 
 penance, right of pews, and others of the like 
 kind. 
 
 Here is a very numerous library, confiftlng chiefly 
 of books of civil law and hiftory, and is daily in- 
 creafing, by the donations which every bifliop gives 
 at his confecration. 
 
 At the eaft end of St. Paul's church-yard is St. 
 Paul's fthool, founded in 1509, by Dr. John Col- 
 let, dean of St. Paul's, for a mailer, an ulher, ai:d 
 a chaplain. The Mercers Company are truflocs ; 
 and their condu6l has been fuch in the execution of 
 their charge, that the fchoolhas been always in hir^h 
 eftimation, and the revenue is greatly improved. 
 
 The prefent edifice, which, was built foon afte? 
 the lire of London, has a very fingular appearance. 
 The public opinion is divided about it, but it fccms 
 more worthy of difapprobation thanpraife. Neither 
 utility nor effeft appear to have been confulted in 
 makino; the center not more than half the hei^iht of 
 the ends ; and the mixture of brick and ftone, feems 
 to have been intended not fo much to add fl:ren2;tli 
 to the building, as to give it an air of finery, very 
 little calculated to pleafe the man of judgment. 
 The architect has deviated exceedingly from the re- 
 ceived rules, without ofFerlng any thing in his per- 
 formance which can induce us to excufe his pr. - 
 fumption, 
 
 D 6 ' C 
 
60 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 On the north fide of Newgate-Itreet, nearChrift- 
 church, is Chrift's-hofpital ; a fchool for the main- 
 tenance and education of children of both fexes. 
 This fchool is frequently called the Blue-coat-fchool 
 by the vulgar, from the colour of the children's gar- 
 ments. It has nothing in its itrufture to claim 
 attention from the critic, having been built at dif- 
 ferent times, without any regard to general fym- 
 metry ; but its extcnfive efFedts demand our notice. 
 Henry VIII. in the laft year of his reign, ga\ e the 
 priory of St. Bartholomew, and its dependant con- 
 vent of Grey Friars, to the poor. In confequence 
 of this grant, the city was obliged to eftablifli a fet- 
 tled and regular provifion for the poor in this place. 
 But this was not done till the latter end of the reign 
 of Edward VI. who being extremely affe6fed at a 
 fermon of bilhop Ridley, took fuch meafures, by the 
 advice of that truly chriftian prelate, that this hof- 
 pital was permanently fettled. To promote and 
 continue which work, he fettled upon it certain 
 lands, that had been given to the houfe of the Sa^ oy , 
 founded by Henry VII. for the lodging of pilgrims 
 ^nd ftrangers, but which, at that time, was only 
 ufed by vagabonds and ftrumpets. 
 
 Tke whole revenue of this hofpital is fo great, 
 that they maintain upwards of a thoufand children 
 at a time. Here is alfo a mathematical fchool, 
 founded and endowed by Charles II. for the educa- 
 tion of forty boys for the fea, to which the go- 
 vernors of Chrift's-hofpital have fince appointed 
 
 forty 
 
LONDON. 6i 
 
 forty more to be taught in like manner. This is a 
 fchool of great reputation, and has always hitherto 
 been under the conduct of one of the firft mathema- 
 tical men in England. The prefent mafter is Mr. 
 William Wales, who is fufHciently known to the 
 world for his fcientific knowledge and abilities. 
 
 ' In Smithfield we fee a vaft area, that is capable 
 of sreat beauty, but is at prefent deftitute of all ; a 
 fcene of hkh and naftinefs ; one of the moft naufeous 
 places in the whole town. It is true, the ufe which 
 is made of it, as a market, is fomething of an ex- 
 cufe for it ; and, in fome degree, atones for the 
 want of that decency which would improve it fo 
 much : yet ftill, it is my opinion, that ways and 
 means might be found to make it tolerable at leaft; 
 and an obelifk, pyramid, or ftatue, in the center, 
 defended with handfome and fubftantial rails, would 
 go a great way in fo defireable a project. 
 
 * On one fide of this irregular place are the en- 
 trances, not the fronts, of a magnificent hofpital ; 
 in a tafte not altogether amifs, but fo erroneous in 
 point of proportion, that it rather offends than en- 
 tertains : but, what is ftill more provoking, the 
 building itfelf is entirely detached from the entrance; 
 and, though fo near a large and noble opening, is, 
 in a maimer, flifled v/ith the circumjacent houfes. 
 It is, indeed, a building in a box, or cafe ; and 
 though beautiful in itfelf, and erected at a prodigious 
 expence, is fo far from giving pleafure to a judge, 
 that he would rather regret its being built at all. 
 
 It 
 
62 TOUR THRoueH 
 
 It is certain, that Avhcrc the ground will admit of it, 
 public buildings cau hardly be too grand and magni- 
 ficent; but where they cannot be feen when 
 finiflied, ufe and convenience only fhould be con- 
 fulted, and a pile of rough ftones, from the quarry, 
 would anfwer the cud, as well as the marble of 
 Egypt, v/ith the decorations of Greece or Rome.' 
 
 The Chartcr-houfe and fquare is not at all re- 
 markable for archlteilure, or delign > but a general 
 ncatnefs gives it a pleafmg appearance. After walk- 
 ing through the dirt and hurry of the neighbouring 
 ftreets, we find an agreeable contrail in the acade- 
 mical flillnefs ajid verdure of this place, which the 
 antiquity of the building, and'orderly appearance of 
 its inhabitants, contributes to improve. This edi- 
 fice was originally a religious foundation of tlie or- 
 der of Carthufians, the word Charter-houfc being a- 
 corruption of the French Chartreux: but being dif- 
 Iblvcd at the reformation, it fell into the hands of 
 the eail of Suffolk, who difpc^ed of it to Thomas 
 Sutton, Efq; a ci>tizen of London, by whom it was 
 fitted up, and endowed it with lands which, at prc- 
 fent, produce upwards of 6000I. per annum. 
 
 In this houfe are maintained eighty penfioncis, 
 who, according to the inititution, are gentlemen, 
 merchants, or foldiers, fallen into misfortunes. 
 Thefe are provided with handfome apartments, and 
 all the neceffaries of life, except cloathsj inftcad of 
 which, each of them is allowed a gown, and 7L 
 per annum,. 
 
 There 
 
LONDON. 63 
 
 - There are alfo forty-four bo}S*fupported in the 
 houfe, where they have handfome lodgings, and arc 
 inftruiled in claflical learning, &:c. Eefides thefe, 
 there are twenty-nine ftudents at the Univerfitics, 
 who have each an annual allowance of 20I. for the 
 term of eight years. Others, who are judged more 
 ^fit for trades are put out apprentices, and the fum 
 of 40I. is given with each of them. As a farther 
 encouragement to "the fcholars brought up on this 
 foundation, there are nine eccIcUaflical preferments 
 in the patronage of the governors, who, according 
 to the conftitution of the hofpital, are to confer 
 them upon thofe who are educated there. 
 
 The penfioners and youths are taken in at the re- 
 commendation of the governors, who appoint theiu 
 in rotation. 
 
 At the lower end of Clerkenwell-green ftands the 
 lately eredted county-hall. The front of this edi- 
 fice is of rtone, and has very confiderable merit. 
 The bafcment ftory is ruftic, with fquare windows. 
 The central parts project a little, and are ornament- 
 ed with four Ionic columns crov/ned with anano-ular 
 pediment, without which, on each fide, is a pilafter 
 of the fame order. The central intercolumniation 
 has a large arched windovr, as have alfo the two in- 
 tercolumniations at the ends of the front, over each, 
 of which are the fafces, o:c. dependent, in relief. 
 The other two, on each fide the center, have v/in- 
 dovvs not arched, the upper fpaces being occupied 
 by tvi'O upright ovals, containing the figures of Juf-. 
 
 tice 
 
64 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 tice and Mercy, in relief. The pediment fpace ex- 
 hibits the arms of the county, with ornaments. 
 The whole ftru6lure does not feem fiifficiently raifed, 
 which is owing to its fituation at the bottom of a 
 hill. The moft fupcrficial obferver cannot help re- 
 gretting, that it is not placed at the uf per end of 
 the Green. 
 
 * The Phyficians College, in Warwick-lane, a 
 ftrudture little known, and feldom talked of, is a 
 building of wonderful delicacy, and eminently de- 
 ferves to be confidcred among the nobleft ornaments 
 of this city; and yet, fo unlucky is its fituation, 
 that it can never be feen to advantage ; rav, feldom 
 feen at all; and what ought to be confpicuous to 
 every body, is known only to few ; and thofe, too, 
 people of curiofity, who fearch out their own enter- 
 tainments, and don't wait for the impreflions of vul- 
 gar reports, or common fame, to excite their at- 
 tention, or influence their judgments.' 
 
 The prifon of Newgate, before it was damaged 
 by the outrages of the populace, in 1780, might 
 have been efteemed a model for flruclures of this 
 nature. The external face is entirely wrought in 
 ruftic, and ftrikes the mind very forcibly with an 
 idea of its purpofe. We behold fymmetry and fit- 
 nefs. The mind is filled, though not with pleafing 
 fenfations. It is impoflible to confider this mafl'y 
 edifice, but as the manfion of defpair and mifery. 
 
 The Seflions-houfe, being fo near Newgate, hurts 
 the general efFecl:, which the regularity of that pile 
 
 tends 
 
LONDON. ^5 
 
 tends to produce ; for we cannot readily determine, 
 whether they are detached buildings or not. This 
 , laft edifice is calculated much more for convenience 
 than efTeil. The principal front cannot be viewed 
 but obliquely, and the largenefs of the windows, 
 together with the paflage through which the prifoners 
 are introduced, give it a very fingular appearance. 
 
 Near adjoining to the SelTions-houfe is the fur- 
 geons theatre, a modern ediiice, built in a ftile which 
 poflefles a noble fimplicity. At this place all mur- 
 derers are publicly difie(Sled, after execution at Ty- 
 burn. 
 
 Fleet-market was opened about the time that 
 Stocks-market was abolifhed, to make way for the 
 city manfion-houfe, namely, in 1737. The ftalls, 
 &c. of this market are well contrived and executed j 
 but not fufficiently fo to prevent our regretting, that 
 one of the nobleft ftreets in London ftiould be ap- 
 plied to fuch a purpofe. It may be eafily imagined, 
 what an addition the removal of the market would 
 be to the city, when the old houfes on each fide came 
 to be rebuilt ; for the ftreet from Blackfriars-bridge 
 to Holborn is near half a mile in length, 30 yards in 
 breadth, and almoft entirely ftrait. 
 
 A fmall ftone obelilk has, within a few years, been 
 erefted at the common center of Fleet-ftreet, Lud- 
 gate-ftrcet, and Fleet-market. 
 
 On the weft fide of Bride-flreet, not far from 
 Blackfri.irs-bridge, is Bridevvell-hofpital, where an- 
 ciently flood a royal palace of the kings of Eng- 
 land. 
 
66 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 land. Tills was given by Edward VI. ss pr.rt of the 
 great plan of ciiarity, concerted by biiliop Ridley, 
 and endov/ed by that monarch. It was infti- 
 tuted for the corre(ftion of vagabonds, and the em- 
 ployment of the poor. In this hofpital are gene- 
 rally about 100 youths, who are apprentices to me- 
 chanic tradefmcn, that rcfule there, and are called 
 Arts Mailers. It confifts of two courts, in which 
 the buildings arc convenient, and not very irre- 
 gular. 
 
 MORNING 
 
LONDON. 67 
 
 MORNING IV. 
 
 OU R next morning's tour will be from Fleet- 
 market along the Strand, to the Surry fide of 
 Weft minfter- bridge. 
 
 ' The fteeple of St. Bride's, at firft fight, ap- 
 pears to a good deal of advantage ; but on ever fo 
 flight an examination, we conclude it wants variety, 
 and the firft and laft ord'er are almoft the fame. 
 
 * St. Dunftan's, Fleet-ftreet, is but an incum- 
 brance to the way. Without having any thing but 
 deformity in itfelf, it fpoils the beauty of the whole 
 ftreet, and hides the profpe<St of Temple-bar, which 
 would terminate the view very advantageouHy, and 
 to be feen almoft as far again as it is at prefent. 
 
 * Temple-bar is the only remaining gate about 
 town, and deferves fome degree of applaufe. If it 
 has any fault, it is, that the top being circular as well 
 as the arch underneath, the whole wants that con- 
 traft of figure, which is fo efiential to beauty and 
 tafte. The ftatues on the outfide are good, their 
 only difadvantage is the hurry of the place where 
 they are to be viewed, which makes it dangerous to 
 be curious, and prevents that attention to them, 
 which they would otherwife command. 
 
 < The 
 
68 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 ' The flrudure of the Terr.ple-gate is In the flile 
 of Inigo Jones, and very far from being inelegant; 
 I u i(h I could fay the fame of the different detach- 
 ments of building which belong to it ; but that is far 
 from being in my power, nor ever can or will, the 
 property is fo divided and fubdivided, that it is next 
 to impoffible that any agreement fhould ever be made 
 in favour of harmony and decoration. It is certain, 
 that nothing can be finer fituated than the Temple, 
 along the fide of the river; and, if we confidcr the 
 elevation of the ground, and how far it extends, the 
 moft barren invention cannot fail of conceiving the 
 ufe it might be put to, and the beauties it would ad- 
 mit of. At prefent there is but one thing which is 
 worth obferving in the Temple, and that is the old 
 church, which belonged to the Knights Templars 
 of Jerufaicm ; and the outiide even of this is cover- 
 ed from the view, that the whole might be of a 
 piece. The infide, indeed, is yet vifible, and may 
 juftly be efteemed one of the befl remains of Gothic 
 architecture in this city. The form of it is very 
 fmgular ; you enter nrft into a large circular tower, 
 which at top terminates in fomething like a dome, 
 and has a very good effect on the eye; beyond, op- 
 pofite to the entrance, the church extends itfelf in 
 three ailes, and is built and finilhed with as much 
 elegance and proportion as the tafte of thofe days 
 would allow.' 
 
 The buildings called the Temple, are divided iiito 
 the Middle Temple, and the Inner Temple, which 
 
 are 
 
LONDON. 69 
 
 are called Inns of Court. They are extraparochial, 
 and chiefly inhabited by attornies, and other ftu- 
 dcnts or profeflbrs of the law. 
 
 * From the Temple it is but a natural ftep to 
 Lincoln's Inn; but by the way, it is worth a flran- 
 ger's curiofity, to vifit the habitation of the mafter of 
 the rolls, which is certainly built with elegance and 
 convenience, and can be blamed in nothing, but its 
 fituation ; which is, undoubtedly, as bad as the build- 
 ing is good. 
 
 * Lincoln's Inn may reafonably boaft of one of the 
 neateft fquares in town ; and though it is imperfedl 
 on one fide, yet that very defedl produces a beauty, 
 by giving a profpccl to the gardens, which fill the 
 fpace to abundantly more advantage. I may fafely 
 add, tli. t no area is any where kept in better or4er, 
 cither for clcanlinefs and beauty by day, or for illu- 
 minations and decorum by night. The fountain in 
 the middle is a very good decoration ; and if it was 
 ftill kept playing, as it was fome years ago, it would 
 preferve its name with more propriety, and give 
 greater pleafiire into the bargain. 
 
 * The outfide of the chapel belonging to this fo- 
 ciety, is a very good piece of Gothic architecture, 
 and the painting on the windows has a great many 
 admirers within ; in my opinion, indeed, it does not 
 deferve quite fo much applaufe as it has received ; 
 becaufe the defigns are poor, the faces have little ex- 
 prefiion, and there is little reafon, befide a blind re- 
 gard to antiquity, to extol them at all. The raifing 
 
 this 
 
^0 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 this chapel on pillars afrords a pleafing melancholy 
 ivaJk underneath ; and by night, particularly, when 
 illuminated by the lamps, it ha: <;n o-vect that may 
 be felt, but cannot be defcribed.' 
 
 This chapel was built by Inigo Jbne?, who, 
 nof.^'ithftanding his fKiIl and reputation in archi- 
 tecture, could not perfuade the Benchers to have it 
 in any other ftile. 
 
 The new Six Clerks office is a very plain build- 
 ing, neatly faced with ftone. It has no pretence to 
 praife, as containing no attempt to deferve it. On 
 the Chancery-lane fide we are offended at the door, 
 v."hich is not in the center of the building, and for 
 that reafon dellroys the regularity of its appear- 
 znct. And when we view it from the grand fquare 
 of LlncoInVInn Fields, we are remarkaL' / ftruck 
 with the idea of its being yet unfinifhed. For this 
 building does not cover half the eailern hne, and 
 the difagreeable vacuity to the fouthward naturally 
 induces us to fufperd our approbation, till it is uni- 
 formly filled up. A circumftance which, it is highly 
 probable, will never happen. 
 
 * The gardens are far from being admirable, but 
 then they are convenient j and, confidering their 
 Ijtuation, cannot be eiieeraed too much. There is 
 ibmething hofpltable, too, in the fociety, in laying 
 them open to public ufe ; and while we fharein their 
 pleafures, we have no title to arraign their talte.' 
 
 * From the terrace of Lincoln's-Irm gardens, we 
 have a profped of one of the largeft fquares in 
 
 Europe j 
 
L O N D O N. 7r 
 
 Europe j it was originally laid out by the mafterly 
 hand of Inigo Jones, and intended to have been 
 built all in the fame ftile and taite : but by the raif- 
 carriage of this, and many other fuch noble defigns, 
 there is too miich realbn to believe, that England 
 will never be able to produce people of tafle enough 
 to be of the fame mind, or unite tlieir fentiments for 
 the public ornament and reputation. Several of the 
 original houfes ftill remain to be a reproach to the 
 reft ; and I vvifli the difadvantageous comparifou 
 had been a warning to others, to have avoided the 
 like miftake. 
 
 * The late earl of Talbot's houfe, the center of 
 the weftern pile, is built on the above-mentioned 
 model of Inigo Jones, but fo elevated and improved, 
 as to make it more fuitable to the quality of the 
 owner. There is great fimplicity and beauty in the 
 plan itfelf J as much harmony and proportion in the 
 parts it is compofed of, and the decorations are 
 well fancied, and as well difpofed. The archi- 
 tefture, which forms the entrance into the court- 
 yard, is grand and noble, and as fmgular in its 
 tafte as happy in its efFeft. Sorry I am that the 
 houfe adjoiniiig to this, built on the fame defign, is 
 not like it in all particulars : the alterations which 
 have been made in it are very far from improving it, 
 and what it has gained in height it has loft in pro- 
 portion ; and what is added of decoration, is de- 
 viating from funpiicity and beauty. The height of 
 the rocf is a blemifti, that the lownefs of the wall 
 
 and 
 
^2 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 and portal will hardly atone for. But that the 
 houfe fuffers in itfelf, by thefe ill-judged refinements, 
 is not all ; it hurts the whole fide of the fquare, 
 which thefe two houfes are properly the center of j 
 and if they had been uniform and regular, would 
 have juftly appeared an ornament to the whole ; 
 for, it is my opinion, that in all fquares there 
 fhould be a capital building in the middle of each 
 fide, which fhould ferve to fix the eye, and give 
 the better air of magnificence to the profpeil. 
 
 * Great Queen-ftreet is another inltance of our 
 national want of tafte ; on one fide is a row of houfes 
 that Italy itfelf would not be afnained of; on the 
 other, all the variety of deformitv that could be 
 contrived as a foil to beauty, and the eppofite of 
 tafte.' 
 
 From hence we fhall pafs down into the Strand, 
 through Clement's Inn, which is one of the inns of 
 chancery. 
 
 ' The firft thing I have to objefl: to in the Strand, 
 is the whole body of building that extends from the 
 Butcher-row to the new church. Such a ftreet as 
 the Strand, which is the grand channel of commu- 
 nication between two fuch cities as London and 
 Weftminfter,' could not be too large and fpacious ^ 
 and without this incumbrance, and that of Exeter 
 Change, this ftreet would have pofleiTcd that advan- 
 tage in a very eminent degree j at leaft from the Bar 
 to York-Buildings ; and if it had not been adorned 
 with noble and majeftic flructurcs, it would, how- 
 ever. 
 
LONDON. 73 
 
 ever have been confiderable for its length, and ca- 
 pacity of being improved: whereas, now it is in- 
 cumbered, at Its very entrance, in a moil fcanda- 
 lous degree ; and, to mend the matter, too, in com- 
 plailance to the luperflitious cuftom of a due eaft 
 and weft fituation, they have crowded the backfide 
 of the church of St. Clement into the face of the 
 people, if I may be allowed the expreffion, even 
 though they had room enough to build it otherwife, 
 and prevent fo capital a nuifance. Neither does the 
 fabrick itfelf make any amends for this inconvenience 
 by its beauty and magnificence. There appears to 
 me fomething very fantaftic in the fteeple, fomething 
 clumfy and too heavy in the portico, anH fomething 
 poor and unmeaning in the whole frame. 
 
 ' The New Church in the Strand is one of the 
 flrongeft inftances in the world, that it is not ex- 
 pence and decoration that are alone productive of 
 harmony and tafte. The architect of this pile ap- 
 pears to have fate down with a refolution of making 
 it as fine as poflible, and with this view, has crowded 
 every inch of fpace about it with ornament; nav* 
 he has even carried this humour fo far, that it ap- 
 pears nothing but a clufter of ornaments, without 
 the proper vacuities to relieve the eye, and give a 
 necefiary contraft to the whole. He ought to have 
 remembered, that fomething fhould firft a]5pear as a 
 plan or model to be adorned, and the decorations 
 fhould be only fubordinate to that defign j the em- 
 bdUrnments ought never to eclipfe the outline, but 
 E heighten 
 
74- TOUR THROUGH 
 
 heighten and improve it. To this we may fafely 
 add, that the dividing lb fmall a fabrick into lines or 
 ftories utterly ruined its fimplicity, and broke the 
 whole into too many parts. The fteeple is liable to 
 as many objedions as the church ; it is abundantly 
 too high, and, in the profile, lofes all kind of pro- 
 portion, both with regard to itfelf and the ftrufiure 
 it belongs to. In fnort, this church will always 
 pleafe the ignorant, for the very fame reafon that it 
 is fure to difpleafe the judge.' 
 
 The new building at Somerfet-houfe is intend- 
 ed for a variety of public offices, the principal of 
 which are the privy-feal and fignet offices ; the navy- 
 office; navy-pay; vidualling; fick and wounded ; 
 ordnance; ftamp; lottery; f.'lt-tax ; hackney-coach j 
 and hawkers and pedlars offices: alfo the furveyor- 
 general of crown-lands-office ; the duchies of Corn- 
 wall and Lancafler; the two auditors of imprefls; 
 the pipe-office, and comptroller of the pipe ; the 
 clerk of the eftreats, and treafurers-remembrancers 
 offices. The king's barge-houfcs are likewife com- 
 prehended in the plan, with a dwelling for the barge - 
 mafter; befides houfes for the treafurer, thepay-maf- 
 ter, and fix commiffioncrs of the navy; for three 
 icommiffioners of the vidualling, and their fecretary; 
 for one commiffioner of the ftamps, and one of the 
 fick and wounded ; with commodious apartments in 
 €very office for a fecretary, or fome other ading 
 officer j for a porter, and their families. 
 
 That 
 
L O N D O Nv 75 
 
 That pnrt of the edifice which is noxt the Strand 
 is finiflied, and is in poflbfTiGn of the Royal Society, 
 the Antiquarian Society, and the Royal Academy of 
 Artifts. Thefc refpcclable bodies arc here accommo- 
 dated with halls and apartments for their libraries, 
 models, Uc. with rooms for their ofncers, and every 
 thing elfe which their national confequencc could de- 
 mand from an enlightened and liberal government. 
 
 Sir William Chambers is the architefl. The 
 Strand front is a compofition which is far from being 
 confiderablc in extent, being not more than 130 
 feet long. All that the artift could do in fo fmall a 
 compafs, and all that he feems to have attempted, 
 "was to produce anobje61:, that fhould indicate fome-. 
 tfhing more confiderable within, and excite the fpec- 
 tator's curiofity to a nearer examination of the whole, 
 of which it made a part. His ftyle in confequencc 
 is bold, fmiple, and regular. It is an attempt to unite 
 the chaftity and order of the Venetian mafters widi 
 the majcftick grandeur of the Roman. The parts 
 are few, large, and diflinil. The ti-anfitions fud- 
 den, and flrongly marked. No breaks in the gene- 
 ral courfe of the plan, and little movement in the 
 outline of the elevation j whence the whole ftru£lurc 
 has acquired an air of confequencc, to which its di- 
 menfions do not intitle it. The great proportions 
 are fuch as have been obferved by Palladio in the 
 Tieni, Porti, and other of his palaces in and about 
 Vicenzaj and tlie detail, with regard to form, dif- 
 pofition, and meafure, chiefly cglle^ed from the 
 E 2 fame 
 
76 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 fame Palladio, from Vignola, and from Rrphael, 
 from Baldallar Peruzzi, and from the antique, new 
 modtll.'d, and fkilfuUy adapted to the general bent 
 of the defign. 
 
 The three open arches in the Strand-front, which 
 have been before mentioned, now form the only, 
 and will always form the principal entrance to the 
 whole ftru'ilure. They open to a fpacious and ftate- 
 ly vcftibule, uniting the ftreet w'ith the back, front, 
 and ferving as the general atrium to the whole edi- 
 fice, but mere particularly to the Royal Academy, 
 2nd to the Royal and Antiquary Societies, the en- 
 trances to all which arc under cover "*.' 
 
 The fronrt: of Drury-lane theatre is in a good 
 ftyle, but is incumbered with a large gallery, whick 
 is loaded with pots, containing trees and (hrubs. 
 We fuppofe the managers have let the front houfc to 
 a nurfery-man, who exhibits thefe to allure his cuf- 
 tomers. The general plan of the interior of this 
 theatre is very convenient, but the ornaments of the 
 galleries and boxes are frippery and unmeaning. 
 Slender columns of glafs may ftrike the vulgar as 
 very fine, but the judicious would wifli to ft:c pro- 
 priety confulted, as well as the rage of gaudy deco- 
 ration. 
 
 The theatre at Covent-gardcn Is fomewhat larger 
 than that of Drury-lane, and has lately been en- 
 tirely renewed within. The roof has been raifed fo, 
 
 * For a particular account of this building, and its CJntents fee 
 Strttti'i Cuidc through the Royal Academy, in 410. 
 
 that 
 
LONDON. 7/ 
 
 that the people in the back feats of the flillllng gal- 
 lery have a eood view of the ftage. The feats, as 
 well in the pit, as in both galleries, are confiderably 
 raifed, and are therefore more convenient. The 
 fide boxes extend upon the ftage as far as Avhere the 
 ftage doors formerly were ; they are confiderably 
 elevated, and are far better conftrufted for the pur- 
 pofe of feeing than formerly. White Corinthian 
 pillars, with gilt fluting and ornaments, fupport the 
 boxes and firft gallery, and, together with the crim- 
 fon curtains that decorate the front of each box, 
 have a very happy efFecSl: upon the eye : however, 
 this effect is far more remarkable from the ftage 
 than to the audience. The ornaments are few and 
 fimple. The colour of the columns is a light pearl ; 
 the fiutings are fliaded with a tint cf green fome- 
 thing darker, as arc the pannels likewife. The 
 front boxes are lighted by four luftres, and have a 
 large girandole at each end. The entrances have 
 been altered, and every thing appears to have been 
 done which the theatre admits of to make it com- 
 pleat. 
 
 ' Covent-garden would ha\'c been, beyond dif- 
 pute, one of the fineft fquares in the univerfe, if 
 finiftied on the plan that Inigo Jones firft defigned 
 for it; but even this was negleded too; and if he 
 deferves the praife of the defign, we very juftly in- 
 cur the cenfure for wanting fpirit to put it in exe- 
 cution. The piazza is grand and noble, and the 
 luperftruclure it fupports light and elegant. The 
 E 3 market 
 
:S T O U R THROUGH 
 
 mr.;!::t in the middle may be a matter of much profTt 
 to the ground-landlord, but I am fure it is a great 
 cuiliince, with refpetSl to the beauty and regularity of 
 the fquare, and, in a great meafure, defeats the very 
 intenx it was firft calculated to ferve. 
 
 ' The church here is, without a rival, one of the 
 moft perfe<3: pieces of architedlure that the art of man 
 can produce J nothing can be pofiibly imagined more 
 Cmple, and yet magnificence itfelf can hardly give 
 greater pleafure. This is a ftrong proof of the force 
 of harmony and proportion; and, at the fame time, 
 a demonftration, that it is tafte, and not expencc^ 
 which is the parent of beauty. If this building can 
 be faid to have any defect, it is in the form and man • 
 ner of the windows, which are not only in a bad 
 guflo, but out of proportion too.' 
 
 The author of a fpirited and judicious pamphlet, 
 publifhed about 12 years ago, oppofes this opinion 
 with force and impartiality. Speaking of this church, 
 he obferves, that from its moderate fize and unim- 
 portance, although very fufceptible of beauty, it has 
 no pretcnfions to fublimity. What, however, has 
 happened ? The laft is pofitlvely what alone was at- 
 tem.ptcd. It was thought poflible to give an air of 
 grandeur, by rendering it fimple and great in the 
 parts ; but in efrecl, with its original Jittlenefs, and 
 the extreme iimplicity of the order, it finks dov.'n 
 very near to the charaiSler of a barn. 
 
 It is commonly believed at this cay, that Inigo 
 Jones, whofc fuperior genius fhincs ccnfpicuous in 
 
 ail 
 
LONDON. 7g 
 
 all .his other works, was cramped in his defign for 
 this church ; and that, being confined to a certaia 
 cxpence, all he afpired at was to make it the fineft 
 barn in England. This may ferve as an excufe for 
 the archite£l, but none for the age that received it 
 2S a temple in the perfection of the Tufcan ftyle.. 
 Maundrell, a judicious and correal obferver of 4:hofe 
 times, gives its plan and perfpecLivc, for the purpofe 
 To comparing it with the famous temple of the fi:n; 
 at Balbec, in Syria. It muft, however, be acknow- 
 ledged, that by the happy manner of placing it^ 
 fome efFecr is prod'uced, in fpite of the injudicious 
 fimplicity of the fabric. 
 
 On the fpot formerly called Durham-yard, on the 
 (hore of the Thames, is now erecled a mafs of large 
 houfes, which may be called ftupendous, if we Qon- 
 fider it as a private undertaking.- It was built by 
 the architesSts Robert and John Adam, and was dif- 
 pofed of fome few years ago by lottery, at 50 1. per 
 ticket. The houfes are in a very judicioUs and 
 pleafmg f!:reet ftyle. Without any unneceflary re- 
 dundancies, they exhibit a fcene of regularity arid 
 beauty. The terrace has no inconliderable fhare of 
 grandeur, and the whole pile is fuch as does great 
 credit to the profeflional abilities of the architects, 
 at the fame time that it is an ornament to the me- 
 tropolis. 
 
 The terrace is nearly level v/ith the Strand, ami 
 
 therefore much -elevated above the river. On this 
 
 account, as well as from its fituation, this ftreet is 
 
 E 4 not 
 
So TOUR THROUGH 
 
 not equalled by any other in London. By Its ele- 
 vation, it commands a view over the houies in Lam- 
 beth Marfh, to a confiderable diftance in the coun- 
 try; and by its fituation, which is on the very fum- 
 jnit of the bend of the Thame?, the buildings on 
 both (hores are fecn to great advantage. 1 iie ca- 
 thedral of St. Paul's, the abbey at Wellminfter, the 
 palace at Lambeth, which, though rude and irregu- 
 lar, is not unornamental in the view; and many 
 other edifices are at a very happy diftance, and great- 
 ly enrich the fcene. But the view immediately be- 
 neath the eye ii. particularly ftriking. On each fide, 
 « noble expanfion of water is ftretched out for the 
 Ipace of near looo yards, at the end of which ap- 
 pear the bridges of Weftminfter and Blackfriars. 
 Thefe ftruilures, which are an honour to ihe nation, 
 it'i both beheld from hence in the beft poflible point 
 of view; the difcance being fuch, that the beauty 
 and fymmetry cf the whole may be caught at one 
 glance, while the fmaller parts are not too rem.ote 
 to be feen diftinftly. From this place the two 
 bridges may be compared, and the fpeiStator Is at a 
 lofs which to give the preference to, the lightnefs 
 and elegance of Blackfrlars-bridge, or the majeftic 
 folidity of that of Weftminfter. 
 
 ' York-ftairs is, unqueftionably, the moft perfeft 
 piece of building, that does honour to the name of 
 Inigo Jones : it Is planned In fo exquifite a tafte, 
 formed of fuch equal and harmonious parts, and 
 adorned with fuch proper and elegant decoration?, 
 
 that 
 
L O N D O N. St 
 
 that nothing can be cenfured or added. It is, at 
 once, happy in its fituation beyond comparifon, and 
 fancied in a ftyle exaclly fuited to that fituation. 
 The rock -work, or ruftic, can never be better in- 
 troduced than in buildings by the fide of water ; 
 and, indeed, it is a great queflion with inc, whe- 
 ther it ought to be made ufe of any where elfe/ 
 
 * The Itables in the Meufe are, certainly, a very 
 grand and noble building ; but then they are in a 
 very fingular tafte; a mixture of the ruflic and the 
 Gothic together : the middle gate is built after the 
 firft, and the towers over the two others in the laft. 
 I will not take upon me to determine whether this is 
 a fault or no, or v/hether any other kind of building 
 would have fuited the purpofe as well ; but this I am 
 fure of, that unlefs the ether wretched buildings are 
 pulled down, and the correfponding v/ings are made 
 to anfwer the bulk already raifed ; unlefs the area is 
 laid out in the moil: juft and elegant manner, and 
 the v/hole laid open to the ftreet, it will add a new 
 rcfleftion on our tafte, for beginning fo many cx- 
 penfn'e undertakings, without finifliing one.' 
 
 ' I could wiih too, that a view was opened from 
 hence to St. Martin's chirrch ; I don't know any 
 one of the modern buildings about town which better 
 deferves fuch an advantage : the portico is, at once, 
 elegant and auguft, and the ftceple above it ought 
 to be confidcred as one of the moft tolerable in town. 
 If the ftcps arifmg from the ftreet to the front could 
 have been made regular, and on a line from end to 
 E 5 end. 
 
S2 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 end, it could have given it a very confiderable Q;r?.cs : 
 but as the fituation. of the ground would not allov/ 
 itj this is to be cfteemcd rather a misfortune than a 
 fault. The round column?, at each angle of the 
 church, are very well conceived, and have a very 
 fine efFe6l in pro6Ie of the building : the eaft end i§ 
 remarkably elegant, and very juftly challenges a 
 particular applaufc. In fiiort, if there is any thing 
 wanting in this fabrick,-it is a little more elevation ; 
 which, I prefume, is apparently v/anted within, and 
 v/ould create an additional beauty without. I can- 
 not help thinking too, that, in complaifance to th-e 
 galleries, the archite6l has revcrfcd the order of the 
 windows, it being always ufual to have the large 
 ones neareft the eye, and the fmall, by way of attic 
 itory, at the top.' 
 
 The open area, in which the Strand terminates, 
 is called Charing-crofs ; from the magnificent crofs 
 ere£ted here by Edward I. in memory of his beloved 
 Eleanor. Part of this crofs remained at the time of 
 the civil wars in the reign of Charles I. when it 
 was pulled down, as a remnant of Popifli fuper- 
 ftition. After the refloration, the equeftrian ftatue 
 of Charles I. was erected on the fpot. 
 
 * Northumberland-houfe is very much in the 
 Gothic tafte, and, of courfe, cannot be fuppofed 
 very elegant and beautiful ; and yet there is a gran- 
 deur and majefty in it, that flrikes every fpe(5lator 
 with a veneration for it : this owing entirely to the 
 fimpiicity of its parts, the greatncfs of its extent, 
 
 and 
 
L O' N D O N. 83 
 
 •and the romantic air of the towers at the angles. 
 The nniddle of the front, next the Strand, is cer- 
 tainly much more antient than any other part of the 
 building, and, though fijiifned in a very expenfive 
 manner, is a very mean and trifling piece of worlc. 
 It may, indeed, preferve the idea of the original 
 pile, and acquaint the moderns with the antiquity of 
 their forefathers ; but then it breaks tiie uniformity 
 of the whole, and might be fpared with more pro- 
 priety than continued/ 
 
 ' The ftatue at Charing-crofs has the advantage 
 of being well placed j the pedeftal is finely elevated, 
 arnl the horfe full of fire and fpirit; but the man is 
 ill defiened, and as tamely executed : there is na^ 
 thing of exprefiion in the face, nor characler in thie 
 ■figure ; and though it may be vulgarly admired," it 
 'ought to be generally condemned, 
 
 * When I have ftood at this place, I have often 
 regretted that fome fuch opening as this had besti- 
 contrived, to ferve as a center between the two 
 cities of London and Weftm.infter, and from whence, 
 particularly, the cathedrals of St. Paul's and the 
 Abbey might have been feen, as the terminations of 
 the two viftas. I am of opinion, that nothing in 
 Europe would have had a finer effcft ; but now it is. 
 impoflible it fhould ever take place ; and I mention 
 it only by way of hint, that private property is, ge- 
 nerally fpeaking, the only bar to public "ornament 
 and beauty^ 
 
 E 6 * Th^ 
 
84 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 ' The Admiralty was eredled on a fpot of ground, 
 which afforded the archite6l room for all the beau- 
 ties his imagination could fugi^eft; and the expence 
 it was raifed at, enabled him to execute all that 
 beauty in a grand, though fimple manner. How he 
 has fucceeded, the building is a {landing evidence ; 
 and very much concerned I am, to fee a pile of that 
 dignity and importance, like to continue a lading 
 reproach of our national want of tafte. 
 
 * I muft ingenuoufly confefs, that the number of 
 little boxes that are built on the ruins of Whitehall, 
 make me no fatisfaftion for the lofs of that palace ; 
 not that I believe it ever was a fine ftruclure, but 
 bccaufe it might have been fo ; becaufe no piece of 
 ground, fo near two cities, could afford a finer fitu- 
 ation, with fo noble a river on one fide, and (o 
 beautiful a park on the other : but becaufe Inigo 
 Jones's plan for rebuilding it is ftill forthcoming, 
 
 ' and may be made ufe of to ere6l a ftrudlure equal 
 to the fituation. The majeftic fample he has given 
 of his art in the Banqueting-houfe, is a continued 
 pcrfuafive to incline us to wifh for the reft of that 
 magnificent pile, of which this was intended to be 
 fo confiderablc a part. To be fure, if ever this 
 could be effcfted, Britain might boaft of a palace, 
 which might excel even the proud Verfailles, and 
 be as much vifited too, in compliment to its fupe- 
 rior tafte. 
 
 * i cannot leave this place, without taking fomc 
 notice of the admirable cieling, performed by 
 
 Rubens, 
 
LONDON. 85 
 
 Rubens, which is, beyond controverfy, one of the 
 fineft things of the kind in Europe. It is, indeed, 
 not fo generally known as one could wifli, but it 
 needs only to be known to be efteemed according to 
 its merit. In fhort, it is but an ill decoration for a 
 place of religious worfhip ; for, in the firft place, 
 its contents are no ways akin to devotion; and, in 
 the next, the workmanfnip is fo very extraordinary, 
 that a man mud have abundance of zeal, or no 
 tafte, that can attend to anything befide.' 
 
 ' Before I quit this place, I muft take notice of 
 the brazen-ftatue, ere£led here iri honour of James 
 II. The attitude is fine, the manner free and eafy, 
 the execution fmifhed and perfe6l, and the expref- 
 fion in the face inimitable : it explains the very 
 foul of that unhappy monarch, and is, therefor^, as 
 valuable as if it commemorated the features and 
 form of a hero. In fliort, 'tis pity it is not re- 
 moved to fome more public and open place, that it 
 might be better known, and more admired.' 
 
 The infcription on the pedeftal, the words yaco- 
 biis Secwidus excepted, appears to have been erafed. 
 
 Oppofite the Banquetting-houfe is the Korfe- 
 guards, a noble modern edifice of frone. It con- 
 fifts of a center and two wings, and has an air of 
 ftrength, plainnefs, and regularity, which fuits very 
 well to its defignation. In the center of this ftruc- 
 ture is an arched paflage into St. James's Park, 
 and the building over this has a pediment, in which 
 are the king's arms in relief. The cupola at top, 
 
 with 
 
tl TOUR THROUGH 
 
 with the clock, is a proper finifli, but has nothing 
 in itfelF to claim rerpe(fl-. From the parade in St. 
 James's pnrk the whole front appears much more 
 fimple, and has a better cfFeft, though it muft be 
 allowed that its fize is not adequate to the noble 
 area before it. This is the principal entrance to 
 the park, and the fovereign pafl'cs through it when 
 he repairs to the fenate. It is a place almoft un- 
 equalled for exhibiting a building to the highcfl ad- 
 vantage, and cannot but. be attended to by every 
 foreigner who vifits this kingdom. We cannot,, 
 therefore, help v."i£hing, that this pile had been in 
 the ftyle of one of the ancient triumphal arches ', a 
 fpecies of compofstion v/hieh admits of the higheft 
 magnificence and beauty, which, from the various 
 points of view in the park, would iiave continually 
 prefented new elegancies to the fight, and which, 
 
 x>n the Whitehall fide, would have had the additional 
 advantage of a* fine rural perfpedlive feen through 
 its principal arch. 
 
 • The Treafury is a building compofed of beautiful 
 parts, but more calculated for a ftreet than for fuch 
 an area as the parade. The parts arc too numerous, 
 
 •and Avant that fimplicity and grandeur of efi'ecl, 
 which a few would produce* 
 
 '. * We proceed to Weftminller, a city long famous 
 
 •for its antiquity, yet producing very little worthv of 
 attention, and lefs of admiration. W^e will begin 
 with the houfe on the left hand of King-ftreet, and 
 near adjoining to Privy-garden j not that it is very 
 
 remarkablo 
 
LONDON. S/^ 
 
 ffemarkuble in itfelf, but becaufe it has one of the 
 moft elegant irregular views before it of any houfe 
 in town. The ftreet before it forms a fpacious and 
 noble area. On the one fide is the Treafury, Horfe- 
 guards, War-ofEce, and Admiralty; and the other 
 is adorned with a profile of the Banquetting-houfe, 
 at Whitehall; between thefe the ftreet is difcovered 
 "winding to Charing-crofs, and over the tops of the 
 houfcs there, the fteeple of St. Martin's, foftened by- 
 the diftance, ends the view, and marks the keeping 
 of the whole. 
 
 * And yet, with all thefe advantages, the fpot was 
 long a public nuifance, as well as all thofe houfes in 
 King-ftreet, Channel-row, and the entire fpace be- 
 tween them. Nothing in the univcrfe could be more 
 abfurd than fo ■\\Tetched a communication between 
 two fuch cities as London and Weftminfter, previ- 
 ous to the building of Parliament-ftrcet; a paflage 
 which muft be frequented by all foreigners ; which 
 is vifited even by the fovereign himfelf, many times 
 a year ; which is the road of all the judiciary bufinefs 
 of the nation ; the only thoroughRire to the feat of 
 the lep-iflature itfclf; and the route of our moft 
 pompous cavalcades and proceilions ; furely fuch a 
 place as this ought, at leaft, to be large and conve- 
 nient, if not colHy and magnificent ; though, in 
 my opinion, it ought to be the centre of cur ele- 
 gance and grandeur: and to do this effectually, all 
 the buildings Ihave complained of, ought long fince 
 to have been icvelltd to the ground, and a fpace laid 
 
 open 
 
88 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 open from the Privy-garden to Weftminfter-hall, on 
 one fide ; and from the weft end of the abbey to 
 Storey's-gate, on the ciherj this furrounded with 
 ftone buildings all in a tafte, raifed on a piazza or 
 colonade, with fuitable decorations j and the mid- 
 dle ftiould be adorned with a group of ftatues, an- 
 fwerable to the extent of the circuit round it. It is 
 eafy to imagine what an effect fuch an improvement 
 as this would have on the fpe£lator, and how much 
 more agreeable it would be to the honour and credit 
 of the nation. I fliould farther deure, too, to fee 
 the little hovels demoliflacd, which now incumber the 
 hall and the abbey, that thofe buildings might be fcen, 
 at leaft ; and if they could not be admired for their 
 beauty, they might be reverenced for their greatnefs 
 and antiquity. If St. Margaret's were removed 
 with the reft, it would yet be a farther advantage j 
 for then the fine chapel of Harry VII. vi^ould come 
 into play, and be attended to as it defer ves. I am 
 very far from expciSling, or even imagining, that 
 any of thefe alterations will ever come to pafs ; I 
 mention them only to explode the miferable tafte of 
 our anceftors, who neglevSled, or did not underftand, 
 thefe beauties j and their defcendants may grow wlfcr 
 at their expence, and prevent the like ccnfures from 
 falling upon them. 
 
 * Nothing can be more unworthy of fo auguft a 
 body as the parliament of Great-Britain, than the 
 prefent p'ace of their aflembly. It muft, undoubt- 
 edly, be a great furprize to a foreigner, to be forced 
 
 to 
 
LONDON. 89 
 
 to enquire for the parliament-houfe, even at the 
 iloors; and when he has found it, to fee it fo de- 
 tached in parcels, fo incumbered with wretched a- 
 partments, and fo contemptible in the whole. I 
 could wifh, therefore, to fee this evil remedied; to 
 fee fo ufcful and neceflary a fcheme take place. I 
 fhall fay no more on this fubje£l than, that I fhould 
 be glad to have both houfes under the fame roof, 
 built on the fame line, exadtly oppofite to each other, 
 the feats ranged theatrically, the throne in the midft 
 of one femicircle, the fpeaker's c^iair in the others 
 and that when the king irsade his fpeech, v/ays and 
 means might be found to remove the partitions from 
 between the two houfes, and prefent the whole par- 
 liament of Britain at one view, afl'embled in the moft 
 grand, folemn, and elegant manner, with the iove- 
 reign at their head, and all the decorations round 
 them which could ftrike the fpeclator dumb with ad- 
 miration at the profufion of majeity, which fet ofF 
 and adorned the whole. 
 
 * After fuch a fcene as this has been prefented to 
 the imaginatic;i, no other has importance enough 
 to be attended to. I expert, therefore, that what 
 has been faid of Weftminfter-hall will meet with 
 but a cool reception. That RrudLure is re:Tiarkable 
 only for being the largeft room in Europe, which 
 has no column to fupport it; all that is excellent in 
 it, therefore, is to be found in the contrivance and 
 workmanfhip of the roof; and, no doubt, both are 
 truly adnr.irable. But as fkill and contrivance are 
 
 both 
 
^O TOUR THROUGH" 
 
 both tlirov/n away, unlefs they are to be feen in ef- 
 feft, fo a room of half the extent of this, fupported 
 on bcautifil pi?lar?, and graced with fuitable cor- 
 nice?, according to the antique, would excite a 
 great deal more applaufe, and deferve it infinitely- 
 better. 
 
 * I fuppcfe my readers have already obferved, that 
 during the courfe of my efTays on this fubjc^Sl, I have 
 not contented myfeif with bare remarks on the or- 
 naments I find nniflied to my hands ; but that I have 
 taken all opportunities, bcfide, of pointing out ways 
 and means, which either may or might have been 
 made xife of to refine upon fome, to adjoin others, 
 and make the moft of every fituation for the beau- 
 tifying and adorning the whole. It is in this view,. 
 I often mentioned things, which, by the inter- 
 fering of property, can never take place ; and hold 
 myfeif excufed in the prefumption, that a negleft ia 
 one particular may be made a fpur to the improve* 
 ment of another. 
 
 * The new church of St. John, with the four 
 towers, at Weftminftcr, is fituated in fuch a man- 
 ner, with refpeil to Old Palace-yard, that it might 
 have been feen from thence, at the end of a noble 
 vifta, to the greatcft advantage imaginable. The 
 fight of the towers over the tops of the houfes.pnts 
 every body in mind of this, and it is with much re- 
 gret we lofe fuch a beauty. As to the building 
 itfelf, it is in a very particular taftc,. and has a great 
 mixture of beauty and caprice in it 3 there are many 
 
 parts 
 
LONDON. 91 
 
 parts of it which I approve, and many more which 
 I condemn : it is, to be fure, a fatal miftake, to en- 
 deavour at an excellence, and then err fo wide of 
 the mark as to flumble on deformities : all falfe or- 
 naments beiJome falfe inftantly, and only ferve to 
 make an obfcurity more confpicuous. If the archi- 
 te^ of this pile had once thought of this rule, I am 
 pcrfuaded he would have been abundantly more 
 chafte in his compofition, and cut his towers, like 
 thofe of Babylon, off in the middle, 
 
 * Henry the Seventh's chapel has an undoubted 
 right to be taken notice of in a very particular man- 
 ner, as being one of the mofl expenfive remains of 
 the antient Englifli tafte and magnificence. To be 
 fure, there is no looking on it without admiration ; 
 but then its beauty confifts much more eminently in 
 fhe workmanfliip than the contrivance, which is 
 juft the reverfe of what it ought to be. The pro- 
 poriion and harmony of a plan is the firfl grand 
 iccret in building ; nicety, and point in execution, 
 the laft. Thus it happens, that the edifice before us 
 has nothing in its forifi to furprize or charm j and 
 all the expence of art, which is lavifhed away upon 
 it, only excites pity that the fubjecl deferved no 
 better. I am very fenfible, I run no final! rifk of 
 being cenfured for making fo free with fo celebrated 
 a pile as this; but as I profcis myfelf clear of all 
 prejudice, and only in purfuit of truth, fo I fl-iall 
 take all the liberties which are of a piece with fuch 
 a charader, and rcfolvc to be, governed by reafon 
 • • aiid 
 
g2 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 and judgment only. Qji thele principles, therefore, 
 I will boldly affirm, that nothing can be more ablurd 
 than ereclting tills fabric at the end of the abbey ; it 
 now fcrving only to fpoil the fymmctry of both, and 
 make a botch inftead of adding a beauty. If there 
 were any point of view where thefe pieces might be 
 feen together, the truth of my afiertion would be 
 apparent j and, as it is, a little imagination will 
 ajifvver the Hnne end. 
 
 ' Let us flirther add, that, by this unnatural con- 
 iunvTHon, the whole magnificence of front, which 
 might have been given to this coftly chapel, is en- 
 tirely loft ; and thofe who admire it moft implicitly 
 and devoutly, cannot help enquiring for an entrance 
 fuitable to the reft of the ftru<5ture. 
 
 * Let us for once then fuppofc, that it had been 
 entirely detached from the abbey, and erected cp- 
 pofite the Houfe of Lords, with a fumptuous front 
 to the ftreet ; let us fuppofe the new Parliament- 
 houfe finiflied on the other fide, and the before- 
 mentioned vifta laid open to the new church, 
 the confequence would then be another group of 
 beauties in building and decoration, which few 
 cities in Europe could parallel. 
 
 ' By the many things I have faid of the advan- 
 tage of fpace before a building, in order to add 
 magnificence to the view, nobody will wonder, I 
 prefume, thr.t I am for demoiifhing a large part of 
 the Dcan's-yaid, and laying open the ftreets at the 
 weft end of th^ abbey, at leaft, to an equal breadth 
 
 With 
 
L Q N D O N. 93 
 
 with the building. I muft frankly own, nothing 
 appears i'o milcrable to me, as iuch incumbrances 
 round a grand and elegant building : they abate the 
 pleafure of the profpecl moft exceedingly, and are 
 real difaJvantages to the builder's fame. 
 
 ' Wcflminfter-abbev is a fabric cf great anti- 
 quity, and challenges fome kind of veneration on 
 that account : it is befides of prodigious bulk, and 
 fills the eye, at leaft„ if it does not fatisfy it. To 
 glance at it in the landfcape, without examining its 
 parts, it plcafes tolerably well ; to examine its parts, 
 we arc under a neceffity of difliking the whole. It 
 the height furprizes, we are out of humour with its 
 form ; and the fronts, in particular, ought to have 
 rows eminently above the reft, in order to have va- 
 ried the lines, and given that grace it fo vifibly 
 wants. We now rather think of a barn, than a 
 church. I believe this image is entirely owing to 
 the fbarpnefs of the roof, and if that v*^as reiStified, it 
 would be greatly to the advantage of the building in 
 general. 
 
 * As to the infide of the church, it is certainly 
 more perfect and judicious than the out ; the pcr- 
 fpective is ftrong and beautiful ; and ftrikes the 
 fpeciator in a very forcible manner, as foon as he 
 makes his entrance : and yet it owts the grratcfl 
 part of its cfte6l to a fault in fymmetry. It is the 
 exceeding height of the grand aile which gives the 
 ' ailoniihment ^ but if that was only in exa6t pro- 
 portion 
 
<*.4- TOUR T HA OUCH 
 
 portion to the reft of the parts, it would not be 
 dilUnguifhed fo much, and yet would dcferve much 
 greater praife. 
 
 ' The organ has even interfered with this beautv, 
 and broke the vifta in the moft injudicious manner 
 imaginable: the iron gate below, it is true, makes 
 fome amends, by prefenting us with a little view of 
 perfpedive, Avhich would make one of the beft pic- 
 tures in that ftyle, I ever faw ; and the lights and 
 fhadov/s fall fo artfully, that the painter has nothing 
 elfe to do but copy; it will hardly be in his power to 
 improve.' 
 
 The abbey of St. Peter's is of fuch antiquity, that 
 we are not without feveral fabulous accounts of its 
 foundation. St. Peter^ to whom it is dedicated, is 
 faid to have erected an oratory here, but the talc 
 needs no refutation. About the year 606, of the 
 Chr'iftian a:ra, Segebert, or Sebert, king of the 
 Eaft Saxons, then newly converted, built a church 
 on the fite of Weftminfter-abbey, and intended to 
 have confecrated it to St. Peter ; but that apoftle 
 came the night before the ceremony, and confe- 
 crated it himfclf. 
 
 The authorities on which this laft tale is built, 
 are fomewhat better than the form.er ) and it feems, 
 at leaft, to have been generally believed at the time 
 of Edward the Confeflbr. For that prince, during 
 his exile in 'Normandy, according to the blindly 
 zealous cuftom of that age, had*madc many vows of 
 
 piU 
 
L O N D O N. 95 
 
 pilgrimage, Sec. in cafe he fliould be reflored to his 
 dominions. Accordingly, in the year 1045, he 
 thought it incumbent on him tp go to Rome, pur- 
 fuant to his former refolutions. But this did not at 
 -all fuit with the political intentions of thofe who had 
 reftored him to the throne : they therefore propofed 
 an expedient, calculated, at once, to quiet the con-> 
 icience of the royal enthufiaft, and to prefcrve the 
 tranquillity of his people. 
 
 For thefe purpofes ambafladors were difpatched to 
 Rome, to obtain a difpenfation from his vows, 
 which was attended with no difficulty. But this 
 provifo was added, that the expences propofed to be 
 applied to his journey fhould be given to the poor, 
 and that he fhould ereft a new, or repair fome old 
 monaftery, to the honour of St. Peter. 
 
 The above fabulous legend induced him to prefer 
 the fite on which king Sebert's church wras erected, 
 •but was then much fallen into decay. He, there- 
 fore, decimated all his pofiellions, and applied the 
 produce to the building the abbey of St. Peter, which 
 is commonly called Weft-minfter, to diftinguifti it 
 from St. Paul's, or the eafl-minfcer ; the w-ords 
 miniter and monaftery, being fynonymous. This 
 is the building we fee, though it has been fmce occa- 
 fionally repaired. The charter of St. Peter's abbey 
 was the laft public a6i of Edward the Confefibr, who 
 •died a few days after, A. D. 1065. 
 
 Henry 
 
9$ TOUR THROUGH 
 
 Henry III. began to build a chapel here to the 
 blefled Virgin; he laid the firft ftone in 1220: 
 about twenty-five years after, finding the walls and 
 fteeplc of the church decayed, he pulled them down 
 to enlarge the building, and make it more regular, 
 which was not compleatcd till twenty-three years 
 after his death. 
 
 Henry VII. in 1502, began that ftately ftruc- 
 ture called by his name, by pulling down the chapel 
 of Henry III. and a houfe adjoining, called the 
 White Rofe Tavern : this chapel, like the former, 
 he dedicated to the blefled Virgin, defigning it for a 
 burial -place for him and his pcflerity ; and in his 
 will exprefsly enjoins, that none but the blood-royal 
 fhould lie therein. He procured a bull from pope 
 Leo for uniting to this abbey the collegiate church 
 ef St. Martin's-le-grand, and the manor of Tykill 
 in Yorkfliire, 
 
 Since the death of this prince, no great altera- 
 tions have been made in this ftru»Elure, till of late 
 years j when it became the objecl of parliamentary 
 concern, to refcue it from ruin by a thorough repa- 
 ration, at the national expence. And though the 
 ravage made in it by Henry VIII. and the havock 
 without and within it during the civil v/ars, can 
 never be recovered ; yet it has, by the labour and 
 fliill of Sir Chriftopher V/ren, and thofe that fuc- 
 ceeded him, been decorated with fome new orna- 
 ments J and by the addition of two ftately towerf, 
 ©f curious workmanfhip, at the weft, it is nov/ ren- 
 2 dercd 
 
LONDON. 97 
 
 dcred more complete than ever, the weft end having 
 been left unfiniflied. 
 
 In examining the old abbey in order to thefe . 
 repairs, Sir Chriftopher Wren found great defeds 
 both in the materials and the w^orkmanfliip ; the 
 Hones were decaved, the walls damaged and giving 
 way, fome pillai'S uvayed, and arches cracked, &c, 
 fee. All this, however. Sir Chriftopher caufedto 
 be amended inftantly, and made ftronger than ever 
 the firft builders left it. Ke made great repairs, and 
 inverted the building with a better fort of ftone ficm 
 Burford in Oxfordftiire, but did not live to firiifti his 
 defigns : in fhort, he left behind him a plan for ereft- 
 ing a tower and fpirc, and perfect draughts and 
 models of all the additional ornament's that he 
 thought neceflary to complete this ftately buildings 
 fome of which, particularly the tot\'ers to the weft, 
 have been fmce ere£lcd, but the lofty fpire has been 
 thought either impratticablc or unnecefiary. 
 
 This noble fabric, thus nev/ coated and im- 
 proved, has at a diftant profpedl all the majefty of 
 its former ftate ; but the beautiful carving that once 
 adorned it, and ufed to charm the beholder, is now 
 . irretrievably loft ; the buttrefles, once beautifully 
 <;apped with turrets, are made into plain pyramidical 
 forms, and topped with free-ftone ; and the ftatueS 
 of our ancient kings, that formerly flood in niches 
 near the tops of thefe buttrefTes, and attrafted ad- 
 miration, are for the moft part removed, and their 
 broken fragments lodged in the roof of Henry the 
 f Seventh's 
 
98 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 Seventh's chapel, where they are buried from the 
 public eye. On the north fide, next die towers, 
 feme of thofe ftatues are flill {landing : on this fide 
 you are to take your outward view of the abbey, the 
 other fide being much incumbered with buildings. 
 
 The form of the church is that of a crucifix, in 
 which Henry the Seventh's chapel is no part. In 
 the original plan, the foiith fide anfwers exaflly to 
 the north, by attending to which you may form a 
 true judgment of the whole. The cloyfters on the 
 fouth fide were added for the conveniency of the 
 monks. 
 
 In the year 1776 the flails, Sec. of the choir were 
 rebuilt, and the floor fomewhat raifed. They are 
 not, at prcfcnt, according to the old defign, but are 
 neverthelefs deferving of commendation, as be ing in 
 a light and elegant Gothic flyle, not at all un- 
 worthy the reft of the building. 
 
 In this abbey the kings and queens of England 
 are crowned, and their burial-vault is underneath 
 the chapel of Henry VII. 
 
 ' As I have made ftatues, as well as architedurc, 
 the fubjeft of this eflay, as often as they have fallen 
 in my way ; and we are now in the abbey, it will 
 be unpardonable not to take a furvey of the moft 
 remarkable monuments there, and applaud and cen- 
 fure, in turn, as occafion offers. 
 
 * I fhall begin with Sir Godfrey Kneller's, fitu- 
 ated at the lower end of the north ailc j a thing 
 defigned by Sir Godfrey himfelf, and executed by 
 
 Ryft)ack j 
 
LONDON. 99 
 
 Ryfback ; and yet fo far from anfwering the idea we 
 might conceive of it from two fuch great names, 
 that it hardly excites common attention or curiouty; 
 unlefs to read the epitaph, which is exadly of a 
 piece with the tomb, and as unworthy of Mr. 
 Pope's genius, as the defign of that is of Kneller's 
 pencil. One would have thought, fo accomplifhed 
 a mafter (hould have recolletSled, at firft fight, that 
 a canopy is far from being a proper decoration in 
 ftone ; and if it was, that it is fo flale and trite an 
 ornament, that the worft of his difciples would have 
 rcj«£^ed it with contempt. One might reafonably 
 add, that Sir Godfrey had it in his power to diftin- 
 guifh his own excellencies in the propriety of his 
 ornaments ; but thofe he has chofen may do as well 
 for any body elie, and belong no more to a painter, 
 than a lord chief juftlce. 
 
 * I (hral pafs by a number of rude Gothic pieces 
 which, inftead of adorning, really incumber the 
 chwrch J and be particular on fuch only, wh'ch 
 either really excel, or were intended to do fo, by 
 the founders. 
 
 ' Among the firft of thefe, we may very juftly take 
 notice of that creeled to the memory of young Mr- 
 Carteret : the thought it turns on is fine and poeti- 
 cal ; no guardian is fo proper of a thing facred to 
 memory as Time, and no bribe fo efFedlual to fecure 
 , him in its favour as A4ent. The epitaph he is 
 made to difplay is in a fine tafte, and does honour 
 to him who compofed it, and him it alludes to. 
 F a The 
 
100 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 The buft of the vouiio; gentleman himfelf Is beauti- 
 fully fimple, and preferves a fine keeping with refpedl 
 to the whole.' 
 
 Though the general merit of this monument can- 
 not be difputcd, yet there is fomething forced and 
 unnatural in the attitude of the figure of Time. Its 
 expanded wings do not fufficiently fatisfy the cb- 
 fcrver, who perceives that it is off the center of po- 
 fition. In fadl, we are not entirely free from ap- 
 prehenfion of its falling. The Latin epitaph is 
 truly poetical, and never fails to intereft the reader, 
 not on account of the conceit of making Tim.e the 
 guardian of his fame, but by the fimplicity and un- 
 afFecSted expreflion of regret, which prevails in its 
 compofition. After faying thus much, it would be 
 wrong not to iniert it. 
 
 The Epitaph. 
 
 Quid breves te delicias tuorum 
 Naenlis Phoebi chorus omnis urget, 
 Et meae falcis fubito recifum, 
 
 vulnere plangit ? 
 En puer, vitae pretium caducje ! 
 Hie tuam cuftos vigil ad Favillam, 
 Semper adftabo, h mcmori tuebor, 
 
 Marmore famam. 
 
 Audies clarus pietate, morura 
 Integer, multge ftudiofus artis ; 
 H*ec frequens olim leget, haec fequetur, 
 Emuh pubes, 
 
 * On 
 
LONDON. 101 
 
 * On the other fide of the fame aile, on the back 
 of the choir, we fee another, in all refpeils oppofite 
 to this ; I forget the lady's name* in whofe honour it 
 was eredlcd, and if thofe who were at the ex- 
 pence of it could be forgot too, it v.'O'ald be feme 
 advantage to their characler. The conceit of this 
 monument is, a front figure of a lady fpringing up- 
 wards from the ground, with a cherubim above liCr 
 defcending to give her a lift ; though, by her atti-* 
 tude, it is impofilble flie ihould know any thii\g of 
 the matter. Below her, hovering over the bafe, is 
 another, as lame and wretched as tlie firft, who un- 
 folds as bad an epitaph, and compleats fo miferable 
 a piece, that nothing but its next neighbour could 
 keep it in countenance. 
 
 * That belongs to the late Lord Kinfale, and is 
 as fine as painting, carving, and gilding can make it; 
 but for its tafte, farsly it is impofnble any thing can 
 be more remarkable: that nobleman is in a recum- 
 bent pofture, with a curious fuit of armour on, a 
 delicate head of hair, and points to a very em.plia- 
 tical coronet near him, as the fum of all his glory; 
 ^ very pretty bit of canopy dangles over him ; a coat 
 of arms, moH pompouily emblazoned, glitters above 
 that; two poor little boys, whom I pity prodigicuf- 
 ly, bear up a mod ponderous urn, with the addi- 
 tional weight of the ftatue into the bargain; and an 
 important epitaph underneath all, tells you, that it 
 
 * Djine Elizabeth Carteret. 
 
 has 
 
102 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 has been a privilege of the Kinfale family to wear 
 their hats before the king, time out of mind. 
 
 * Doctor Chamberlain's monument is^ by many 
 people, thought one of the beft pieces in the abbey; 
 and, I own, I am inclined to be of the fame opinion. 
 Tobefure, every one of the figures is finely execut- 
 ed, and fome parts of the do6tor's, in particular, de- 
 ferves fincere applaufe. I have no material fault to find 
 with the order and difpofition of the whole, and the 
 epitaph, to be fure, fays a great many fine things of 
 the dodlor j yet ftill there wants a boldnefs and fpirit 
 through the whole. You can't blame, it is true; 
 but then you can hardly praife. In every defign, 
 where there are more figures than one, it is pof- 
 iible to ftrike the fpcdlator's imagination, as well as 
 appeal to his judgment; and I muft be fo free us to 
 own, that this piece has not that effe£t on me. 
 
 * As there is a bufl of a late mufician in our way, 
 dreffed up in a beau peruke, and a fine laced cravat, 
 he would take it ill if we did not pay our compli- 
 ments to him as v/e pafs by; for which reafon I 
 make him this acknov/ledgement : but for fear the 
 heirs of another mufician fhould lavifh away more 
 money to a like purpofc, I think myfelf obliged to 
 declare, that Purcel's epitaph is, at leaft, of ten 
 times more value than Blow's monument. 
 
 ' The two boys on each fide the little tomb eredled 
 to the memory of Sir Gilbert Lort, are in a very 
 pretty tafte, and a perfect contrail to each other; 
 one reprefenting pafiionate exclamatory grief, and 
 
 the 
 
LONDON. 103 
 
 the other ftill and filent. It is pity they are divided 
 by fo bad an ornament in the middle ; had they lean- 
 ed on a fmgle urn, which, in the antique tafte, might 
 have been fuppofed to hold his aflies, they would 
 have had a fine effect, and challenged more admira- 
 tion than many a more pompous and expenfive pile. 
 
 « Looking through into one of the little chapels *, 
 which are feparated from the body of the church, 
 we fee a monument, which belongs to one of the 
 V"ere?, and challenges fome attention. It is true, 
 the principal figure is in the old Gothic tafle, flat 
 on his back, and, of confequence, not to be relifh- 
 ed, though executed in the moft perfect manner in 
 the world j but the four knights, which fupport the 
 jftone over him, with his armour on top, arc juftly 
 to be admired J and though both their drefs, and the 
 oddnefs of their employ are difadvantages, they flf ike 
 you with pleafure notwithflanding, and each inde- 
 pendent figure demands your approbation. Sorry I 
 am to fee them ufed fo ill. Moft of them are maim- 
 ed, and one of them, in particular, has had a leg 
 broke off; I would, therefore, recommend the care 
 of the dead to the dean and chapter, as well as the 
 living ; and as they are leaft able to take care of 
 themfelves, I think they have a better claim to the 
 prote£lion of others, and efpecially as they pay for 
 their lod2;in2; too. 
 
 * Jufl oppofite to this door, againfl the wall, is a 
 martial figure, reprefenting one of tlie Hollis's, and 
 
 • Subfequent c.eftions have entirely fecluded this chapel. 
 
 F 4 till 
 
104- TOUR THROUGH 
 
 till that of Mr. Cragjs's v/as put up, was the only 
 erecl one In the abbey, an attitude I am f^r from dif- 
 commendingj for it is my opinion, ftatues ftiould 
 always reprefent life and adtion, and not languor and 
 infenfibility. It is particularly happy when adapted 
 to foldiers and heroes, who ought never to be fup- 
 pofed at reft, and fliould have their characters re- 
 prefcntsd as ftrong as poffible. This before us i& 
 bold and manly, though not chafte and elegant ; it 
 is finely elevated too, and the mourning -Pallas's at 
 the back of it are both well fancied, and well ap- 
 plied. There is no part of the execution of this 
 tomb that we can admire ; but as there was a pro- 
 priety iii the dcfign, I could not pafs it over without 
 giving it its due praife.' 
 
 Next to Sir Gilbert Lort's monument, is a mag- 
 nificent erection to the memory of admiral Sir Peter 
 Warren, by Roubiliac. This monument is a whole, 
 and as fuch has a commanding effect. The bull of Sir 
 Peter is the principal objeft, to which the attention 
 is directed by the figures of Hercules and Naviga- 
 tion. The Hercules has great merit, but its office 
 of placing or fupporting the buft feems unhappy. 
 For if the ftatuary's intention be to reprefent life^ 
 jiothing can be more oppofite to his purpofe, than to 
 place a figure near the principal, which, bv its ac- 
 tion, fhall fay, *' This is not Sir Peter Warren, but 
 only his buft." 
 
 * The next thing in the abbey, which, according 
 to method and order, demands oui" attention, is the 
 
 toml» 
 
LONDON. 105 
 
 tomb erecled to the memory of the duke of New- 
 caftle, by the countefs of Oxford, his daughter. To 
 be fure, there is not a maufoleum belonging to the 
 whole church, except Henry Vllths, which is built 
 at fo great an expencc as this. The materials are 
 exceedingly fine; the fpace it fills grand and noble; 
 the architecture rich and ornamental; and yet it 
 gives no pleaTure to the elpgant and knowing, and 
 is only the admiration of the vulgnr; the rcafon of 
 which is plain; magnificence has been confultcd 
 only, and not beauty ; and coft and fplcndor are la- 
 vifhed away, if not directed by judgment and tafte. 
 The figure of the duke himfelf is full of abfurdities, 
 it neither fits nor lies, is emploved in no a6lion,has 
 no cxpreffion, no dignity, and abounds with mani- 
 fefl open difproportions. The two ftatues on each 
 fide are equally tame and unmeaning, and have no 
 more relation to the principal figure, than if they 
 were ftill in the ftatuary's yard. I am much dif- 
 pleafed with the two braces of angels that incumber 
 the upper part of this pile ; and, indeed, if the v/hole 
 ftory were entirely removed, I am opinion, it would 
 be no difadvantage to the remainder.' 
 
 Clofe to the door, in an oblique pofition againft 
 one of the pillars, is a mofc exquifite monument of 
 the purcil white marble, by Bacon, lately ereited to 
 the memory of George Montagu Dunk, earl of 
 Haliifax. The whole compofition is fingularly 
 happy. The buft is full of expreflion and chara6i:er, 
 and its attitude has an animation v/hich cannot be 
 F 5 defcribed. 
 
I06 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 dcfcribed. The two boys give meaning and variety, 
 without encumbering the piece ; and the finifh is (o 
 admirable, that no lover of the fine arts can behold 
 it, without regretting that, by its fituation, it is 
 expofed to the rude hand of the vulgar, whofe ra- 
 vages are feen in every part of this facred repo- 
 fitory. 
 
 And here, once for all, I fhall take the liberty, 
 with that honeft freedom which becomes him who 
 addrefTes himfelf to the public, to exprefs the fur- 
 prife and indignation which every thinking man 
 muft experience, when he obferves the mifchief 
 which the fineft productions of the arts are daily 
 fufFering, for want Df attention in thofe who ought 
 ■to be their guardians. The outrages of the fanatics, 
 who were quartered in this abbey in 1643, can 
 never be obliterated; but furely we are not, at 
 prefent, fo defencelefs, that the Goths and Vandals 
 of our day may exert themfelves with impunity. 
 Every delicate foliage, every prominent limb, and, 
 in fhort, every thing which the hook of a ftick can 
 tear ofF, or its blow deftroy, is fure to fuffer. I am 
 told, that the youth of a neighbouring feminary are 
 great agents in this bufmefs : if fo, their governors, 
 and the gpvernors of the cathedral, are to blame. 
 But, at all events, it tt'ould become the latter to 
 conHder, whether their large church revenues will 
 not afford to maintain two or three officers con- 
 ftantly to walk in the body of the abbey ? There is 
 no want of attendants in the corner at which the 
 8 fix-pences 
 
LONDON. 107 
 
 ilx-pences are colledled. For heaven's fake then, 
 or if that adjuration has no force, for the lake of 
 money, let the abbey, hke St. Paul's, be fliut up, 
 except to thofe who pay. Men of tafte will gladly 
 confent to bribe the guardians of the church to their 
 doty, and the vulgar will be excluded. Among 
 many other injuries which can hardly be viewed 
 without execrating both the perpetrators and th« 
 dormant poflelTors of the fmecure dignities of this 
 foundation, I (hall m.ention, that the fnake in the 
 right-hand figure of Dr. Chamberlain's monument 
 is broken ofF, — the head of the principal figure in the 
 fine alt relief on Sir Ifaac Newton's urn is gone, 
 — the tree on the hill of Trinchinopoly in General 
 Lawrence's monum.ent is hooked off, — the arm of 
 one of the figures in the alto relievo on Colonel 
 Townfend's urn is broken ; and a tablet which "was 
 the other day eredled in the fouth aile to the me- 
 mory of Dr. Watts, has already fufFered the lofs of 
 ■an head, leg and arm, of one of the figures. It is 
 alfo a matter worthy of enquiry, what has become 
 of one of the feven remaining ftatues which, out of 
 tlijrty-two, were left by the fanatics in the fhrine of 
 Henry the Seventh's tomb. 
 
 ' 7"he monument eredled in honour of the late 
 Sir Ifaac Newton, has pretty much divided the pub- 
 lic opinion : fome extolling it as one of the moft 
 perfect pieces both in defign and execution, and 
 others again depreciating it as no way remarkable 
 for either. I chuie rather to fleer between thefe two 
 F 6 extremes. 
 
I03 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 extremes, as nearefl: to truth, and agreeable to the 
 beft of my underftanding. I, therefore, make no 
 fcruple to own, that the ftatue of Sir Ifaac has fome- 
 thing in it exceedingly venerable, bold, and ma- 
 jeftic : it commands attention, and expreffcs im- 
 portance ; but then the action it is employed in is 
 vain, and, of courfe, out of characSler it reprcfents. 
 Sir Ifaac, though one of the grcateft men who ever 
 did honour to humanity, was, at the fame time, 
 the leaft proud and afluming ; and delivered fome of 
 the fineft principles of philofophy as doubtful, which 
 all his readers thought demonftrated : it was wrong, 
 therefore, to give him that vanity after his death, 
 which never belonged to him in his life. If the two 
 boys at his feet, which difplay the fcroll, had done it 
 only to the fpe6lator, and Sir Ifaac had not been 
 concerned, it would have anfwered every v/ay ; and, 
 engaging the philofopher in profound contemplation 
 in the mean while, had cxprefl'ed his knowledge as 
 well, and his character better. 
 
 ' The bas relief on the urn is moft excellent, and 
 does great honour to Ryfbraclc : the principal figure 
 in particular, that weighs the fun, and all our 
 planetary fyftem by the fteel-yard, is admirable ; 
 the device is beautiful, and fully expreffing Sir 
 Ifaac's dodtrine of gravitation, which is the bafis o^ 
 his fame. The boys that are introduced to tell you 
 he was Mint Adafter is trifling and poor, unworthy 
 of the reft, and no compliment to him : neither is 
 jhe conceit of the aloe plant, in the other corner of 
 
 the 
 
LONDON. it!9 
 
 the tablature, lefs faulty ; becaufe it Is to the full as 
 iiifignificant, and abundantly more obfcure. The 
 globe, in the back of the monument, is almoft a 
 general objection, as projefting too forward on the 
 fight, and fpolling the keeping of the whole. If 
 any other pedcflal, well proportioned, had been 
 efteen>ed a more natural fupport for the figure of 
 aftronomy above, it might have had room in the 
 middle of it to introduce the globe to more advan- 
 tage : but this I leave to the determination of better 
 judges. 
 
 ' The upper part of the figure of aflronom-y is, 
 without controverfy, one of the moft delicate things 
 that can be imagined ; the manner and aftion are 
 both faultlefs, and the expreffion of the face is at 
 once thoughtful and compofed, fweet and majeftic. 
 I wifh the reft of it had been anfwerabie ; but it is 
 quite the contrary in all refpefis : the legs are 
 clumfy, and incumbered with drapery, and fo far 
 from being beautifully or naturally difpofed, that they 
 are piled one upon another, and put me in pain for 
 fear the figure fliould roll ofF the globe, for want of 
 a due poife to keep it faft. 
 
 ' Upon the whole, it is, at leaft, one of 
 the moft pardonable monuments 1 have feen ; and, 
 I am pofitive, the next age will be alike pleafed to 
 fee fuch another genius as Newton, and fuch ano- 
 ther mafter as Ryft)rack, to do honour to his me- 
 mory, 
 
 « But 
 
no TOUR THROUGH 
 
 * But if this monument of Sir Ifaac's muft un- 
 dergo fuch a fevere trial, and be fo hardly acquitted, 
 what will be the fate of its neighbour, raifed to com- 
 memorate the Lord Stanhope ? Undoubtedly it will 
 meet with no advocate, and has not even the fmalleft 
 title to favour. It is 'all alike, huge and heavy ; 
 expenfively Gothic, and magnificently clumfy. 
 The defign is fo trifling and abfurd, that not even 
 the hand of Ryfbrack can give you the lead preju- 
 dice to its advantage. The ftatue of his^lordfliip 
 might very caftly be miftaken for that of Ajax, if 
 time and place could afford the leaft help to imagi- 
 nation. It has the fame unmeaning air and features 
 which that hero is defcribed with j is as enormous 
 in bulk, and fecms as void of defign and penetra- 
 tion. Circumftanccs that no way agree with the 
 charafter of Lord Stanhope, and which rather lam- 
 poon him than do him honour. 
 
 * The tent behind is moft miferably conceived, 
 and worft adapted of any thing I ever favv in my 
 life J and the Pallas upon the top of it, has the moft 
 uneafy ftation imaginable : fhe is a giantefs too, 
 and feems to have as little forecaft as her charge 
 below : in fliort, if either of them have any beauty, 
 it is in being of a piece with each other, but even 
 that is an excellency which 1 fancy nobody will ever 
 
 . envy or applaud. 
 
 * We muft now ftrike down to the end of the 
 fouth aile, and there we fhall be fomewhat better 
 entertained. The monument of Mr, Craggs is in 
 
 a very 
 
LONDON. Ill 
 
 a very fimple and elegant tafte; there appears much 
 judgment in letting this ftatue upright, becaule it 
 fills the vifta with great harmony, and looks advan- 
 tageoufly even at the greateft diftance. The atti- 
 tude of it is delicate and fine, the thought of refling 
 it on an urn pathetic and judicious, and if the face 
 and head had been more finillied, the whole had 
 been without blemifh. The archltedure is alike 
 plain, and the embellifhments few and well chofen. 
 In a word, many tombs have more beauties, none 
 fewer faults. 
 
 * I muft now take notice of two m.onuments 
 together, though of very different perfons, and 
 fomewhat removed in fituation from one another : 
 they are the Lord Godolphin's and Mr. Congreve's. 
 My reafon for mentioning them at one time is, be- 
 caufe they were ere6led at the charge of the fame 
 perfon ; becaufe they are in the fame bad tafte ; and 
 the epitaph of them both are wrote in the fame ftyle, 
 and fpelt with the fame exailnefs. The lady who 
 was at the expence of putting them up, had, un- 
 doubtedly, the credit of paying a compliment to 
 men of the higheft merit, in their different ftations ; 
 yet, it is to be wifhed, that fhe had thought it worth 
 her while, for her own fake, to have done it with 
 more decorum, and in a manner more fuitable to 
 her quality and their deferts.' 
 
 The firfl window in this aile is filled with fuch a 
 variety of things, thrown together in fo diforderly a 
 manner, that we are no more tempted to dream of 
 
 fymmetry 
 
112 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 fymmetry and arrangement at the view, than wc 
 fliould be at the fight of a broker's-fhop in Moor- 
 fields. The inventor and fculptor, N. Read, to 
 the honour of Admiral Tyrrel, has exhibited a view 
 of the fecrets of the deep. Among thefe fccrets are 
 an Irifh harp, a globe, and a handfome family coat 
 of arms. On a rock we perceive a very long in- 
 fcription, which, by the help of a tclefcope, may be 
 perufedj and on the other fide, the fliip Buckingham 
 prefents her ftern. As we do not propofe to draw 
 out a catalogue of the other valuables here depo- 
 fited, v/e fhall quit the bottom of the fea after ob- 
 ferving, that two ladies, we fuppofe water-nymphs, 
 are in the midll of thefe matters; one kindlv in- 
 viting the fpe£tators to obferve them, and the other 
 bufy with the epitaph. Above this is a range of 
 ftone waves, out of which, or rather nailed to 
 which, appears the admiral. A very little altera- 
 tion in his attitude, would induce the fpe61:atcr to 
 imagine him to be hung in effigy. But the angels 
 above, with their trumpets, put the matter out of 
 doubt, and v/e find it is the laft judgment, even 
 without the help of the infcription to that effedlj 
 which, to prevent miftakes, is engraved on one of 
 the rocks. The clouds above are very remarkable: 
 they are formed of fine white marble, and fixed upoa 
 a dark ground. So i\iztjiparv'is licet co?nponere niag- 
 «^, if the reader has any idea of the figure of a pancake, 
 no more words will be neceffiiry to give him the 
 
 moft 
 
LONDON. 113 
 
 mod accurate and correft knowledge of their ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 Near this place Is a wdl-iinifhcd bufl of the late 
 Dr. Zachary Pcarce, biihop of Rochefter, the laft 
 furviving author of the Spectator. This prelatt was 
 remarkable on many accounts, but for none more 
 than that of his being the only bifhop we ever heard 
 of, who faid nolo cpifcoparl, and I'X the fame time 
 v/iflied to be believed. The circumitance of his 
 offering to refign his lawm flecves, is recent in the 
 memcrv of every one, and is commemorated on his 
 epitaph. 
 
 If we are inclined to look with contempt on the 
 extent of window, which is blocked up by admiral 
 Tyrrel's monument, we hnd ourfelves amply fa- 
 tisfied by the three in the adjoining windows, to the 
 memory of general Wade, general Fleming, and 
 general Kargrave, all by the great Roiibiliac. Tho 
 tirft is compofed of a military trophy, which the fi- 
 gure of Time approaches to deftroy, but is repelled 
 by Fame. The idea is happy, but the execution is 
 more fo. The leaning attitudes of the figures give 
 a variation to the outline of the group that is very 
 pleafmg, and the figures themfelves are inimitable. 
 There is an elegant lightnefs, a velocity, if I may 
 ufe the term, and an animated eagernefs in the figure 
 of Fame, that would enternize the name of Rou- 
 biliac, if his other works were annihilated. 
 
 General Fleming's monument is likewife a maf- 
 t^r-piece, but is inferior to the foregoing in point 
 
 of 
 
114 7' OUR THROUGH 
 
 of meaning. A Hercules is binding up a trophy, 
 while a figure of Minerva points to a medallion of 
 the general. 
 
 But general Hargrave's monument is full as fpeak- 
 ing to the eye as general Wade's, though, by the 
 nature of the fubjecl:, it could not admit of quite fo 
 happy a uirpofition. A body is feen rifing from a 
 farcophagus, on the one fide of which is Hme 
 victorious over Death. In bas relief, on the back 
 ground, appears a lofty pyramid, which is falling at 
 the found of the trumpet of an angel, who is ken 
 hovering above. In this monument we have many 
 things to praife, and fome to blame. The figure of 
 Time is full of force, and great fkill is difplayed in 
 exhibiting a fkeleton, not dead, but in a ftate of ac- 
 tion. The body, rifing from the tomb, is finely ex- 
 ecuted, and expreflcs all that furprize and dread, 
 which the diflblution of the frame of nature muft 
 excite. But a body rifing from the tomb, is not an 
 obje£l that admits of much difplay either of beauty 
 or grace j and the fcene in the back-ground is, per- 
 haps, totally improper for the ftatuary's art. In the 
 prefent inftance, though we admire the ingenuity by 
 which the pyramid feems to fall afundcr, we are not 
 ready to recognize the agent. A little cherub, no 
 bigger than one of the bricks, blows a little trumpet, 
 but without infpiring any of thofc awful imprefiions 
 it was meant to convey j and if the diminutive fi/.e 
 be intended as theefFeil of diilance, it is ill-judged; 
 for a figure in relief, is fcarcely ,ever conceived to be 
 
 diftant. 
 
 I 
 
LONDON. 115 
 
 diftant. The fculptor has the advantage of the 
 painter, but he quits that advantage when he in- 
 trudes into the proviace of the other. 
 
 Colonel Townfhend's monument is very delicate- 
 ly finifhed, and, confidering how acceflible it is, has 
 fufFered very little from the hands of wanton de- 
 ftroycrs. 
 
 The monument lately erected to the memory of 
 major John Andre, is an elegant compliment made 
 by his majefty, in commemoration of that unfor- 
 tunate youth. Britannia reclines on a farcophagus, 
 upon which is reprefented, in relief, that part of the 
 ftory of his cataftrophe, which relates to his requeu- 
 ing general Walhington to alter the manner of his 
 death. The figure of Britannia is elegant and hap- 
 py, but the lion at her feet would, perhaps, have 
 been better if more recumbent; for at prefent, by 
 the magnitude and elevated head of this creature, it 
 is, without any apparent reafon, made to draw oiF 
 too great a part of that attention, which ought to 
 be bcftowed on the melancholy and expreflive figure 
 of Britannia. The bas relief has great merit. The 
 figures are full of life and energy, thi: keeping is 
 very happily attended to, and the whole is grouped 
 in fuch a manner, that it ftrikes the eye at once as 
 a mafs of parts very judicioufly harmonized and 
 blended together. The defign was by Robert Adam, 
 and it was executed by Van Gelder. 
 
 Farther to the eaftward are feveral tablets very 
 neatly executed, but too delicate for the changes of 
 
 the 
 
Il6 TOUR TH?. OUGH 
 
 the atmofphere to which they are expofud. Mr. 
 Wragg's tablet is adorned v/ith a very elegant weep- 
 ing figure. We have already noted the mutilation 
 which Dr. Watts's alt relief has fuffercd. 
 
 * The plainnefs and fimplicity of Dr. Freind's 
 biift pleafes me much, and if his epitaph had been 
 in the fame gout, it would have been, at leaft, as 
 high a compliment both to the ibholar and phyfieian. 
 
 * There is fomething pretty in Airs. Defbovery's 
 tomb, the figures are lively and free, and the archi- 
 tecture not much amifs ; but her oVv'n amiable cha- 
 radler, indeed, is the higheft decoration ; and to 
 ■which we may juftly add that of her friends, who 
 had the gratitude to pay this genteel compliment to 
 the remembrance of their former afFedlion. 
 
 ' Not far from this a monument infcribed v/ith 
 the name of Mr. Smith, which is much in tafte, a 
 fine buft, in relievo, of that gentleman, is fupport- 
 ed by a weeping figure, reprefenting his daughter, 
 both which are defigned and executed with fpirit. 
 If any thing is wanting, it is a reft for the lady's 
 left arm, which being held up to the head, appears 
 painful for want of it. llie urn, on which fhe fits, 
 with its bafe and pyramid behind, finifti the whole 
 tomb, and unite in a ftyle moft harmonious and a- 
 greeable. 
 
 ' The monument of Mr. Thynne falls next un- 
 der our confideration, one of the moft celebrated 
 things in the abbey; it is, indeed, in a moft ele- 
 gant tafte ; and the execution is equal to the defign. 
 
 The 
 
LONDON. 117 
 
 The languid dying pofture he is placed in, with the 
 a6lIoa of his hand, diredling the fpe£lator to the 
 tragic ftory of his death, which was once engraved 
 behind him, are beautifully confiflcnt with each 
 other, and muft have had a very pathetic inRuence 
 on all who beheld it; particularly, as fo flrongly en- 
 forced with the fine relief, which reprefented the 
 murder below. But fmce the caprice of fome, and 
 the prejudice and interefts of others, have crazed 
 the infcription, neither his action, nor that of the 
 inimitable boy at his feet, can be thoroughly under- 
 flood, unlcfs confidered in the light it was firft in- 
 tended to appear in, as def:ribed above. 
 
 ' The execrable Gothic heap, which was erecSled 
 at fo great an expence, in honour of fo brave a man 
 as Sir Cloudefly Shovel, and even by his fovereigii 
 herfelf has been fo emphatically and juftly expofed 
 in the Spectator already, that I have no need to fay 
 any thing more on that fubjeil. I iball only beg 
 leave to put the tvvo neighbouring tombs of admiral 
 Churchill and Air. Stepney in the fame rank of cen- 
 fure, fmce they are almolt as coflly, and full as un- 
 meaning and ridiculous. 
 
 ' I mufl now pafs over feveral wretched things 
 that are unv.'orthy of obfervation^ In order to haften 
 to the corner of the poets j but by the way, cannot 
 overlook the droll figure fet up, at the charge of a 
 noble peer, to the memory of Grabe the commen- 
 tator. He Is elevated on a high fort of a funeral- 
 chcft, with a lamp by his fide, and a pen In his 
 
 hand. 
 
Il8 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 hand, to reprefent, 1 fuppofe, his unwearied applica- 
 tion to ftudy in his life time ; but then the ridiculous 
 height of the ftatue, the clumfinefs of the attitude, 
 and the oddnefs of the employ, never fail to excite 
 laughter in all who behold them ; in (hort, he looks 
 like a boy on a high joint-ftool, kicking his heels 
 about, and tumbling every moment. 
 
 ' I don't know any circumftance which diftin* 
 guifhes the real patron fo much, as paying the laft 
 compliment of an urn and infcription to the afnes of 
 a dead genius ; it argues a thorough and diftintereft- 
 ed efteem for merit ; fcts the fair eft example of mag- 
 nanimity for the great to follow, and excites the 
 noble emulation among the learned to deferve a like 
 honour. 
 
 ' In this view, I am charmed with the recollec- 
 tion, that the venerable names of Spenfer, Jonfon, 
 Cowley, and Dryden have been perpetuated, with 
 juft and noble diftinftions, by fuch illuftrious per- 
 fona2;cs as Shefneld and Villiers dukes of Bucking;- 
 ham, and the earl of Eflex. Some diftiniflion, it 
 is true, is riecefTary to be made in the fhare of ap- 
 plaufe, which is due to thefe noblemen for the fame 
 humane and generous aftion. The earls of EfTex 
 and Oxford did this honour to Jonfon and Spenfer, 
 without complimenting themfelves at the fame time, 
 by infcribing their own names on the ftonej a de- 
 licate piece of felf-denial, which Villiers and Shef- 
 field had not firmnefs enough to pradtifc in their ge- 
 nerofities of Dryden and Cowley. 
 
 « The 
 
LONDON. 119 
 
 * The duchefs of Buckingham will, however, have 
 an equitable claim to fhare in glory with the firft; 
 for llie juftly dilliking the buft, which was firft fct 
 up for Air. Dryden, ordered it, at her own expence, 
 to be removed, and another placed in its ftead ; at 
 t)nce unwilling that her dead lord's humanity fliould 
 be cenfured for want of tafte, and difratisfied with 
 the ^lory of fuch an adion, unlefs the thing itfelf 
 agreed exaiSily with the intent of raihng it. The 
 prcfcnt bull: is far from being contemptible, and the 
 whole tomb fniiple, if not magnificent. 
 
 * I am always much furprized to fee fo wretched 
 a thing as that erected to the m.cmory of Mr. Phi- 
 lips, infcribed with the name of Harcourt. One 
 would have naturally imagined, that whoever aimed 
 at public ornament, would endeavour at fomething 
 like elegance tooj one would have expe6ted it in a 
 more eminent degree, from fuch a name as this ; but 
 on the contrary, nothing is more oppoTite,' nothing 
 can be more coutempdble ; it is even a burlefque 
 upon monum»ents ; and inftead of doing honour to 
 the founder, or the perfon it is confecratcd to, indi- 
 cates very ftrongly, that either one had not merit 
 enough to deferve a better, or the other had not tafte 
 and fpirit enough to do it juftice. 
 
 ' The buil of Jor.fon is executed with great hap- 
 pinefs, and looks with abundance of life and fpirit. 
 The tablature it is inclokd in is beautiful, and the 
 decorations few, proper, an ! elegant. To talk like 
 a critick, there is nothing wanting but a note of ad- 
 miration 
 
1 ao TOUR T n R u c ii 
 
 miration u: tiic cnJ ot the iaiciiption, O rart B,}i 
 
 *■ Though the tomb of Sj-vcnfer has fuffcrcd great- 
 ly by tinic, aiul was crc^^k-d in an age when tafte was 
 in its infancy in Englantl, vet there is fomcthing in 
 it venerably plain, and not abfurdlv ornamental. 
 The materials were certainly very lieh, and I don't 
 recollcil any of the lamertanuing, thatdclcrvcfolit-j 
 tie ceniurc' 
 
 This tomb was icftoredbv private fubfcription, ia 
 1:7s. 
 
 * 1 am plcaled to fee the great Butler here on any 
 terms ; but it would have given me much greater 
 faiisfatition to have ft'tn it railed in a more magnifi- 
 cent manner, and by fuch perfons too, as might have 
 reflected greater honour to his memory; though his 
 own merits were fo eminent, as to need no public 
 acknowledgment to make them immortal. 
 
 * The hurts of ShadwcU and Evremond arc nei- 
 ther of them vcrv extraordinary, .ind therefore I 
 fh.Jl content mvfclf with this bare mention, that they 
 are there. 
 
 * Air. Prior's monumcpt I cannot fo cifilv pafs 
 r>\'cr, bccaufe it is moaju to be magnificent, and was 
 defigned to c.iU upon the attention ot mankind. 
 Undouluedly, few men had ever better title to a fe- 
 pulchr.U trophy than this author ; but rtill I fliould 
 have been more pleafcd, if it had been erected at 
 any other ixufon's charge rather than his own. It 
 is exteikling otir vanity beyond the grave, an.d mak- 
 ing the Ciwy of ir.raikind eternal. As to the tomb 
 
 iUclf, 
 
I 
 
 I 
 
 LONDON. i2f 
 
 '. dellf, I n&u& be uinte ejoowigui to cxm^tis^ I amn not 
 
 . sdjnelv fr.itTsSpfS vfim. ic; Ms csina buSt, wiakB is dc- 
 :~gned CO be the pdirac^u! jb^^ne, is Ltuurt bj the wha^ 
 - ratises (m eidiQr &Se; airei k is motto be qsoefiiossed,- 
 
 : Jit a iianpSe mm, wish tine head oo a pe^Se&all otrer 
 !:, wouitd hare hae! a finer e£e^ aiad betScr deionpei 
 cur as!miiatioo. Xbe hrsd sid^tir is ccTtaiailj {xr- 
 r'jjrtned wish giraat mafieir, ajmi is jfniSij efee«n:£j 
 rme of tJsc fincjH: tSsiisgs in JLrogiiami ; and veSL if z 
 .."..? Freisdi eajbfXKiiacry om tSie ca|s, and liffa^rr, 
 V. ; ; c ipafa^-lj I beEcTC it wosflM be izi &wm. a «Mi^ 
 vantage to it, becassifb it woiuili be tihen ncoiie aMa 
 to Ae chaiBtT and pomtr of the aasta^ue-' 
 
 The baft ot Piior. was ^Sooc bj CoriTcni , _.. . _ 
 cfefentcd to fcina bv Lc^jr^ XIV. w&di Sse was at t*i!e 
 couLft of France, ia a puMic ciaziaiSer. 
 
 Bemreen Biuder : '" . !Tsrdl!, a tn£» t; f ;; l_:-r,r!i, 
 
 by Rjibrack, wa* . - . ;•: i - ?j, sLt iiie «Ejrpenre 
 of WiDiam Becl!«K», ^ ": At tlie rssaorf cf 
 :*je Ifeiace iSnoBn bcibre tu.;* niOflijaaBeiBt, the w^H* 
 :'3wn Txr3» di^ppcMoted to SnJ, that Ms: EemiS'Xi h^i 
 :i:<i(il much oKxre about hi«ni£>llf than the j^set. 
 
 Ua£!£inue:iich MBt'^m is an c&Egant fitdn* ^esioaSe 
 kgnte, in irdae^ which hoys a tnedalEion ol" Giaj, 
 and pciots up to MiEtoo. The inlbr^rion iieaeaafa 
 wiir be thought very ha|]fj by &imc^ wSiile oshesns 
 triO be as ready to cenfoze it, as aa extzava^ant 
 comipiiflQciitt to OrsT*? sbiSitBes. 
 
 G T : £ 
 
122. TOUR THROUGH 
 
 The Epitaph. 
 
 No more the Grecian mufe unrival'd reigns, 
 To Britain let the nations homage pay. 
 
 She felt a Honxcr's fire in A'lilton's llrains, 
 A Pindar's rapture in the lyre of Gray. 
 
 Every admirer of Shakefpeare will look with plea- 
 Aire on the excellent whole-length ftatue of him, 
 by Scheemakers, which was ereiled in 1741, from 
 the produce of tv/o benefits, one at each theatre. 
 He is reprefented gracefully leaning on a pile of 
 books, from which depends a fcroU, containing the 
 following ftrong lines, a little altered from the co- 
 medy of the Tempeft : 
 
 The cloud-capt tov/ers, the gorgeous palaces. 
 The folemn temples, the great globe itfelf, 
 Yea, all which it inherit Ihall diflblve, 
 And, like the bafelefs fabrick of a vifion, 
 Leave not a wreck behind. 
 
 The monument of Thomfon has nothing very 
 remarkable either to praife or cenfure ; but that of 
 Rowe is very happily grouped. 'I'he pyramid be- 
 hind, which bounds the outline and directs the 
 fightj the elegant figure near the buft, and the chafte 
 medallion of the young lady, are all fo difpofed as to 
 ido great honour to Roubiliac, the fculptor. 
 
 Therc 
 
LONDON. 123 
 
 There is an agreeable fimplicity in Gay's monu- 
 ment. The epitaph is one of the bed of thofe 
 written by Pope. It contains a character of Gay, 
 and ends with a fKjint, not of that infipid and ridi- 
 culous fpecies which appears in Kneller's epitaph, 
 but pathetic and intcreiling. The laft four Unes 
 are, 
 
 Thefe are thy honours ; not that here thy buft 
 Is mix'd with heroes, or with kings thy duft; 
 But that the worthy and the good may fay, 
 Striking their penfive bofoms Here lies GAY. 
 
 Over the little door adjoining, a very well-finifhed 
 n\edallion, by Nollekens, has been put up, to the 
 memory of Oliver Goldfmith, commonly called Dr. 
 Goldfmith. The epitaph by Dr, Samuel Johnfcn 
 is much admired, as a piece of elegant Latinity. 
 
 The large monumejit to the memory of the duke 
 of Argyle is one of the moft magnincent in the 
 whole church. The figures are larger than the 
 life, and are full of exprefiion ; and the piece has a 
 very ftriking eiTccf, confidered as a whole, to which 
 ^ts vaftnefs may, perhaps, not a little contribute. 
 The upper figure of Hiftory, by its attitude, is ad- 
 vancing forward pretty quick, which does not agree 
 very well with her employment of writing on the 
 pyramid. Much lefs can the tranquil attitude of the 
 duke be reconciled with this rapid motion ; for he 
 leans his head on his arm, and jefts againft her 
 G 4, thigh. 
 
124- TOUR THP-OUGH 
 
 thigh. The figure of Minerva bclcw, whijch is 
 looking up, appears to be fet out of the perpendi- 
 cular, and ready to fall backwards ; but the oppofite 
 figure of I^loquence is very happy and animated. It 
 might be wifhed, the advanced hand was Icfs enve- 
 loped by the dr?pcry. The bas relief below is fupe- 
 rior in cfi'etl to any I ever remember to have fcen. 
 Britannia, with the cap of liberty, is prefented with 
 his arms, and a fcroU, by three infant figures j and 
 in the back ground we behold the infide of an cxten- 
 five circular building, the perfpctSlive of which is 
 admirably m.anaged, and conveys a fcrong impref- 
 fion of grandeur and vaflnefs. 
 
 In a niche, confidcrably elevated, is a whole length 
 ftatue of Plandel, with an organ, and other mufical 
 ornaments. This is the lafi: m.onument Roubiliac 
 lived to nnifh. It feems as if the fituation had 
 crampt his exertions ; for we do not here obfcrve 
 any difplay of that invention by which his works arc 
 ufually charadlcrized. The flatue pofTeflcs the merit 
 of being exceedingly like the -great compofer to 
 whofe memory it was erected ; but its attitude is 
 not happily calculated for the elevation at which it 
 is placed. 
 
 Near this, by order of the late Princefs Dowager 
 of Wales, are ereited two elegant female figures, in 
 relief, reprefenting Botany and Religion. Botany 
 prefents to view a medallion of the late Dr. Stephen 
 Hales, an'author well known in the philofcphical 
 world by his numerous ftatical experiments. 
 
 Almoft 
 
LONDON. 125 
 
 Almoft immediately beneath is a v/ell executed 
 huft of the truly profound Dr. Ifaac Barrow, the 
 tutor of Newton, and one of the firft logicians the 
 world ever produced. 
 
 * Before we go into the inclofcd part of the abbey, 
 it v/ill be pioper to flop a moment at the tombs 011 
 the left hand of the entrance. That of Dr. Bufby's 
 is certainly in a good tafle, and well executed ; the 
 figure is bold and free ; in a proper action, and very 
 exprefiive of the characler it reprefents : neither are 
 the -decorations much inferior. But that of Dr. 
 Soutli's is altogether as bad ; it is only a parcel cf 
 good marble fpoiled, and the flatue even more 
 fhdcking than the original block it was at fir ft com- 
 pofed of. 
 
 ' Of each Tide of the collateral ailes of the choir 
 are three diftintt fpaces, which, if I miftake not, 
 were formerly ufed as chapels, and confecrated to 
 particular faints ; but now are only repofitories of 
 the dead, and devoted to their monuments and in- 
 fcriptions. I (hall touch upon what is remarkable 
 in each of them quite round, and referve that of 
 Henry the Seventh to clofe my remarks on that part 
 of my fubjefl. 
 
 ' In the firft of thefe, on the right hand, you 
 have a fumple of the antient Gothic magnificence, 
 which was the higheft tafte our anceftors arrived at ; 
 that is to fay, a monument which fpreads over a vaft 
 extent of fpace, contains a prodigious quantity of 
 the fincft marble, is adorned with a vaft variety of 
 G 3 decoration*". 
 
126 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 decorations, dazzles your eyes with a profufion of 
 gliding^, is animated with abundance of infcriptlons, 
 and yet, upon the whole, appears an infignificant 
 heap, without form or order, beauty or underftand- 
 ing ; creating pity that fo much money, time and 
 labour, fiiould be thrown away, inftead of exciting 
 applaufe and admiration. 
 
 ' What has been faid of this particular tomb will 
 fuit as well with all the reft in the fame flylc ; for 
 though they differ in particulars, they are the fame 
 upon the whole j and a fuperiority in hugenefs and 
 expcnce only calls upon the fpedlator for a feverer 
 cenfure, and more poignant difIati:;fa(Stion. One 
 abfuidity efpecially, which is common to them all, 
 ought to be moft rigoroufly condemned ; which is, 
 the graving thc^r infcriptions in fo fmall a charaiSter, 
 arul placing them at fuch a difta;ice from the eye, 
 that they were ever as ineftedlual, as if time had 
 efxaced them from the firft moment of their in- 
 fertion. 
 
 *- In the lafc of the chapels on the right hand is a 
 fuigle ftatue in honour of one of the Holkfes, which 
 exprefl'es more juvenile fweetnefs and beauty than any 
 thing I ever fawof the kind in my life. If this figure 
 has any fault in charadier and defign, it is in its 
 being in a languid, fedentary pofture, tl:ough clad 
 in armour, and defcribed as a hero in his bloom. 
 To be fure an attitude of more fpirit would have 
 been more fuitable to the perfon reprefented, would 
 Have given the ftatuary greater latitude to exert his 
 
 tienius. 
 
LONDON. Ill 
 
 genius, and occafloned more fatisfadtion in the 
 fpc£^ator too.* 
 
 In this chapel, againft the v/eftern wall, has. bcc!i 
 lately ere6ied a fuperb monument to the memory of 
 the late Elizabeth, dutchcfs of Northumberland. 
 The defign is by the architect R. Adam, and it is 
 executed by N. Read. The figures of Faith and 
 Hope are finely performed, as is likewifc the tablet 
 of Charity, and the arrangement of the v.iiole i» 
 very happy. But it feems deficient in point of unity 
 in the acHon. Like the old monuments, it? neigh- 
 bours, every member, every figure, is meant to 
 celebrate a virtue pofl'efled by the deceafcd : but then 
 they are all feparately employed. To illullrate this, 
 we may obferve, that in molt of tfie compofitions of 
 Roubiliac all the parts are made to unite in pne 
 grand intention, and there are no pretty things 
 which can be taken avi?ay, without injuring the 
 fenfe and ftrong meaning conveyed by the whole. 
 Whereas,, on the contrary, the old Gothic monu- 
 ments are mere ornamental arrangements, formed 
 only to flrike the eye. And notwithftanding the 
 very fuperior merit of the ftructure before us, it 
 may, in fonie meafure, be clafled with them in this 
 particular. 
 
 * Oppofite to the door of this chapel is a brazen 
 buft of Sir Robert Stapleton, an author of Ibme 
 repute in the time of king Charles the Firft, which 
 has fomething in it very lively and pleafing; and 
 though a judicious eye will eafily find it incorrect, 
 G 4 he. 
 
128 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 he will not Tail of giving it feme degree of praife 
 notv/ithftanding. 
 
 ' Much in the fame fituation, in the- other aile, 
 is a bas relief, in honour of one cf the la Tours, a 
 family from France, v/hich has a degree of delicacy, 
 both in the tale and exprclTion, which is very enter- 
 taining : it is a mollier lamentins: over her dead or 
 dying daughter, and the artift has been very happy 
 in the execution. I could wifli though that the 
 drapery had not been quite fo prodigally beftov/ed, 
 and that the folds had been fev/er and more fimple. 
 
 ' On thi; ether fide of the fame aile, a little lower 
 down, is another piece of the fame nature with this, 
 vhich is the reafon I arrange them together. The 
 ftory of that is, a lady dying, and her hufband and 
 feveral children weeping round her. I cannot fay 
 that the fcenc is not well enough difpofed, and the 
 pafiions naturally and properly exprefled j but ftill I 
 think fuch little tablatures as thefe a:re fitter for a 
 medal than a monument, and ought to be kept in a 
 box, rather than be expofcd to the open air. What 
 is calculated to laft for any term of years, ought to 
 be compofcd of large and nervous parts, that time 
 mijiht be the longer in hurting it, and that it might 
 have better chance of challenging the attention of 
 pofleiity. 
 
 ' I muft now go back again to the firft chapel on 
 the right hand coming down the aile, where we 
 ftiall fee, at the entrance, a * figure leaning on a 
 
 * Francis, Lord Cottington. 
 
 matrais, 
 
r 
 
 LONDON. r39 
 
 matrafs, which is admirably well executed, but in 
 tlie worfl: {Vyle almoft of any thing in the abbey. In 
 a word, it is an exaiSl copy of the drefs and cha- 
 racter of the times, at the beginning of the reign of 
 king Charles the Firlh The fpruce hair, curled 
 whifkcrs, pointed beard, ftarched rufF, forma] cloak, 
 and large buttons, are as carefully preferved, as if 
 they were a fit ftandard of beauty for ail future ages. 
 Above this, and almoft out of fight, is a brazei^ 
 buft of a *lady, which deferves fome admiration, 
 both as it exprelTes great fimplicity and beauty, and 
 as it is finely executed too. It is true, the drefs and 
 manner of this are as much to be objected to as the 
 laft, and have the fame excufe of mode to plead in 
 their jufl:ification. 
 
 « Juft oppofite to the entrance is a ftatue that is 
 difpoft'd with the moft eafe and freedom of any 
 thing I ever favv ; ^nd, indeed, has no other beauty 
 to recommend it. I do not. recolleil any thing elfe 
 remarkable in either of thefe chapels to take farther^ 
 notice of; for though they are crowded with monu- 
 ments, they are all fo extremely ill, as to be even 
 beneath cenfure. One modern lady, indeed, in the 
 ncxtchajiel to this, v/ould take it ill if I did not pay 
 fonicthing like a compliment to her ; for {he is 
 drefled with fo much nicety, fo laced, fo rufHed, 
 and fo fervent in her devotion too, at the fame tim.e,' 
 as if we were to believe there was as much ceremony. 
 
 * Anne, Lady Cottington. 
 
 ' G 5 to 
 
130 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 to be obferved in gaining admifficn to heaven, as at 
 court on a birth-day.' 
 
 In the pafTage between the chapels to the north, 
 and the chapel of St. Edward, which is in the 
 middle behind the choir, there are f^veral modern 
 monuments. That to the memory of William 
 Pultney, earl of Bath, by Wilton, poflefTcs great 
 merit, both in defign and execution. The two 
 elegant female figures are finely varied ; and the 
 liniflied medallion of his lordfhip is full of life and 
 charadler. 
 
 The fculptor's art is difplayed with fuccefs in the 
 next monument, which is ere6led to the memory of 
 Admiral Holmes, and executed by the fame artift ; 
 but I cannot think the defign happy. The figure of 
 the admiral is not defi:itute of grace, but the im- 
 menfe piece of ordnance, and the anchor, compofe 
 fuch a number of ftrait lines croffing each other 
 almoft at right angles, that the whole difpofition 
 lather offends than pleafes the eye. 
 
 Whetlicr it be that we are ufed to recall to me- 
 mory the capital painting of Weft, when we fee 
 Wolfe's monument, and the latter fufters too much 
 by the comparifon, or from what other latent caufe 
 it may arife is not, perhaps, eafy to be determined ; 
 but, undoubtedly, this piece cannot rank among 
 thofe tliat fcize the afFedtions and fpeak to the heart, 
 though the fubjecflis certainly much in favour of the 
 artift. T"hc whole of this monument fills the mind 
 ^f,i(h ideas of bulk and ponderofity, and we are never 
 
L O N D O N. 131 
 
 fo much attached to the defign as to forget we are- 
 looking at a mals of marble. 
 
 The figure on lord Ligonier's monument is not 
 the pattern of elegance and grace. Inftead of that 
 lightnefs and eafe which we naturally expeft In a 
 fancy-formed nymph, the appearance of the lady in- 
 duces us to fuppofe her with child. 
 
 The chapels in the ailes have not received many 
 additions fince the time of our author j but the man 
 of tafte will be highly gratified by the monument of 
 Mr. Nightingale, which is in the fartheft chapel to 
 the north from Henry Vllth's chapel. It is faid, 
 that the great Roubiliac, the fculptor, was fo defirous 
 of rendering this work perfect, that, to the clofe of 
 his life, he frequently attended here to alter and im- 
 prove it. The whole piece is beyond praifej for, 
 whether we regard the languid attitude of the dy'ii>g 
 lady, or the energetic aftion of her hufband, who ■ 
 fuftains her, and endeavours to ward o(F the fatal ■ 
 llroke, aimed at her by the figure of death; whether 
 we contemplate the ftrong expreffion of paffion, 
 which at once amazes and interefts the fpedator^ 
 or whether we attend more ccolly to the general dif- 
 pofition, the drapery and the anatomy of the figures, 
 every thing leads us to pronounce it inimitable. 
 
 Oppofitc to this is a large pile to the memory of 
 the countcfs of Montrath. The general efFectis not 
 unpleafing, but it cannot be viewed to any advan- 
 tage in the confined fituation it is in. It is likev\'-ire 
 no advant^cge to it to be placed in contrail: to the 
 Ct () fxqui- 
 
1.52 TOUR THROUGM 
 
 exquinte monument we have jufl mentioned; efpe- 
 cially, as it difobligcs the fpe£tator, by depriving him 
 of the beft point of view from v/hich the latter 
 •might be feen. The defign reprefents the lady dy- 
 ing, while an angel diredls her fight to a kind of 
 double chair or fofa, on which her departed lord is 
 fitting, a vacant place being- prepared for her. There 
 is no doubt but this defign might look very well in 
 the original drawing, but it is totally improper for 
 fculpturc ; for nobody that fees the little naked gen- 
 tleman, who fecms to fit fliivering in the clouds, 
 will imagine him to be a great way off, which is the 
 notion intended to be conveyed by its diminutive 
 fizc. It was therefore filly to attempt it. 
 
 ' Some of my readers would, perhaps, take it ill, 
 if in this place, and writing on the curiofities of the 
 sbbey, I fhould not fay fomething in honour of the 
 fine wax- work figures, which are placed fo curioufly 
 up and down this venerable building; particularly, 
 the king William and queen Mary, which have been 
 fo amicably fet up together in the fame box. To 
 oblige them, therefore,, and in compliment to the 
 rev. dean and chapter, who permit thefe noble de- 
 corations, I will throw away a moment or two in 
 giving my opinion of them. Jn the firit place, 
 therefore, I think that they arc ridiculous and un- 
 natural in themfelves, exprefling neither figure like 
 ftatuary, nor colour like painting; fecondly, I am 
 humbly of opinion, that they would become a pup- 
 .pet-fiiew better than a church, as making a mere 
 
 fr.rce 
 
LONDON. 133 
 
 farce of what fhould be great and folemn; and 
 thirdly, I think them highly injurious to the cha- 
 racters they reprefent, as fhewing them like jointed 
 babies to the ftupid admiration of the vulgar, and 
 the contempt of men of fenfe, inftead of charac- 
 terizing their perfons. For all which, and many 
 more reafons, I beg leave to m.ove, that the prefcnt 
 fet of wax worthies may be demolillied without be- 
 nefit of clergy; and that all their prefent patrons 
 may be fubftituted in their place j and that as faft as 
 any future reverence fhould endeavour to feduce his 
 brethren to the like idolatry, he fhould be immedi- 
 ately chronicled in wax, and lliewn with a cap and 
 bells, to diftinguifh the extent of his underftanding, 
 and the perfection of his tafte.' 
 
 This ridiculous method of commemorating the de- 
 ceafedjieems to have beea of confiderable antiquity. It 
 isfaid, thatthefe waxen images were formerly expofed 
 in open chariots with their proper enfigns of royalty 
 and honour, at the funerals of our princes, and other 
 great perfonages. The m.oft ancient and decayed 
 have been from time to time removed. The figure 
 of lord Chatham, lately fet up, was done, v/e pre- 
 fume, at the charge of the copartnerHiip who receive 
 the profits of the exhibition, the price of admittance 
 having been doubled from the time of its eredtion. 
 
 * The inclofure behind the altar, commonly known 
 by the name of St. Edward's chapel, has nothing re- 
 markable in it but certain Gothic antiquities, v/hich 
 are made facred by tradition^ and ferve only to ex- 
 cite 
 
1^4 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 cite a flupid admiration in the vulgar. There is, 
 indeed, at the end of this place, a fort of gate to 
 the tomb of Henry V. which was intended for a 
 piece of magnificence, and no coft was fpared to 
 make it anfwer that defign; but the tafte of it is fo 
 unhappy, and the execution fo execrable, that it has 
 not the leaft claim to that chara»5ter. I^he tomb of 
 that prince challenges attention only becaufe it was 
 his, and becaufe the itatue on it has loft its head ; 
 to account for which fingular injury, we are told a 
 ridiculous tale of its being filver, and that the value 
 of it occafioned the facrilege. 
 
 ' One thing, it is true, was, till lately, to be met 
 with in this place, but now removed to rienry 
 Vllth's chapel, which merited a peculiar regard; that 
 is, a wooden cheft of bones, faid to be the remains of 
 Catharine daughter of the king of France, and 
 confort of Henry V. If this account be authentic, 
 I think nothing can be a greater violation of de- 
 cency, or more injurious to the memory of fuch il- 
 luftrious perfonages, than to expofe their relicks in 
 fo licentious a manner, and make a fhew of v/hat 
 once commanded refpe6l and adoration. 
 
 * The arch at the entrance of Henry Vllth's 
 chapel is exceeding grand and ornamental, the fteps 
 underneath are a fine preparation for the fcene at 
 landing, and the three doors arc admirably expedi- 
 ent to favour the perfpcclive within ; but this, and 
 feveral other beauties, are utterly fpoiled by the ftalls, 
 which cut ofF the collateral ailes of the chapel 
 
 entirely^ 
 
LONDON. 135 
 
 entirely, and thereby fpoil the beauty and rymmetry 
 of the whole. 
 
 ' The roof of this ftruclure is certainly one of the 
 fined things in the world, I mean in the Gothic 
 ftyle. Nothing can be in a better form, or more 
 richly decorated; perhaps, had it been more fimple, 
 it had {hewn to a greater advantage; but ftill it is 
 a wonder, that one continued clufter of ornamenr 
 fhould be contrived to pleafe i'o much, and anfwer 
 fo well, 
 
 * Were the abfurd partitions, mentioned above, 
 thrown down, the roof would appear ftiil more fur- 
 prizing, and the area before more fpacious and pro- 
 portionable; all thofe tombs which are nov/ {hut up 
 in fuch a manner that tliey are no where to be ken 
 as they ought, would then come forward to the eve, 
 and give an additional grandeur and folemnity to the 
 fcene; the perfpedlive would be finely broke, and 
 every objeft properly terminate in the founder's 
 maufoleum, the principal point in the whole view. 
 
 * There are few tombs in Europe more famous 
 than that of Henrv VII. neither indeed are there 
 many v/hich deferve to be more fo. The under- 
 taking in itfelf w:is va{l and furprizing, the coil pro- 
 digious, and the execution exceedingly ditficult and 
 laborious; and yet the artiil has fucceeded in it to 
 admiration: there is hardly a part in it that is not 
 excellent, from the chief figures to the m.inuteil 
 point of decoration. The ftatues of the king and 
 queen are grand and noble, and the bas relief on 
 
 the 
 
I;j6 TOUR' THRCTUGH 
 
 the fides below beautiful and exprefllve. I am oS 
 opinion the workman, whoever he was, was equal 
 to the nobleft fcheme of this nature, and would 
 have made a figure even amongfl the ancients. What 
 a pity is it, therefore, that fuch a genius, and fo 
 much art fhould be laviflicd away on a thing en- 
 tirely out of taftc, and which, at die fame expencc 
 and ftudy, might have been made the wonder of the 
 world ! To explain myfelf farther on this head, no- 
 thing can be more ftupid than the laying itatucs on 
 their backs, in fuch a fituation it is impoffible they 
 fhould ever be fcen to advantage, and of courfe,. 
 that all their perfections muft be thrown away. In 
 the next place, the brazen inclofure which furrounds 
 the tomb, wonderful as it may be confidered by it- 
 felf, is a monftrous blemifh, with regard to the 
 thing it was intended to preferve and adorn ; be- 
 caufe it rifcs abundantly too high, and intercepts^ 
 the view entirely from the principal objesSls. 
 
 * Without doubt the Itatues of the king and. 
 queen ought to have been in living attitudes erect 
 and bold, and the decorating figures fhould have, 
 formed a corrcfponding groupe, which;> in every 
 licht, fhould have flood the tcfb of criticifm, and. 
 given the fpedtator an entire fatisfaclion ; a fv^w more. 
 fleps, too, fhould have been added to raife the foun- 
 dation higher; a magnificent arch might have been, 
 thrown over all, and the boundary below fhould have, 
 been only a guide, and not an incumbrance to the. 
 profpedt. 
 
 ' Yet 
 
L O N D O N. 137 
 
 * Yet erroneous as the tafte of this fine monu- 
 ment may be, ft may be called excellent to that 
 which prevailed feveral years after in the reign of 
 king James I. as may be feenby the v/retched thini^s 
 which were crecLcd at his command, to the memory 
 of queen Elizabeth, and liis mother Mary queen of 
 Scotland. In thefe all the blunders that can be 
 imagined are dbllecled together, want of attitude 
 and exprellion, harmony and proportion, beauty and 
 decoration; nay, the very columns which fupport 
 the fuperftrucSlure are of different forts of marble ; 
 and, to make the figures fplendid and natural, they 
 are painted, and drefled out to the life, as if they 
 were jufi: retired from a drawing-room, and laid 
 down there for a little repofe. 
 
 But thefe whims feem to have been again out of re- 
 pute in the reign of his fon, as appears by the monu- 
 ments of the dukes of Richmond and Buckingham. 
 In thefe there are feveral fine figures in brafs, and 
 fomething like meaning and defign; though, even 
 then they had not learned to diftlnguifli the principal 
 chara£lers, and place them in fuch attitudes as fhould 
 command the fpe6tator's firft and laft attention and 
 regard. 
 
 ' Both thefe faults are entirely avoided by Ryf- 
 brack, in the monument erected in honour of the 
 late duke of Buckingham. There the duke him- 
 felf is the principal figure in the groupe, and though 
 he is in a cumbent pofture, and his lady, in the moft 
 beautiful manner, fitting at his ftet, yet her figure 
 
 is 
 
J38 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 is charadlerlzed in fuch a manner as only to be a 
 guide to his, and both refle<Sl back a beauty on each 
 other. The decorations are exceedingly pidlurefque 
 and elegant, the trophy at his head, the figure of 
 Time above, with the medals of his children, fill 
 up all the fpace with fo great propriety, that as very 
 little could be added, nothing can be fpared. In a 
 word, I have yet ktn no ornamenC that has pleafed 
 mc better, and very few fo well.' 
 
 The fumptuous tomb of Kenry VII. was made 
 and finifhed by one Peter a painter of Florence, for 
 which he received no more than locol. for the whole 
 metal and workmanfhip. 
 
 Li walking among the tombs, our author has 
 . looked around with the eye of a man of taile, and 
 has judged thofe monuments only worthy of notice, 
 which are calculated to charm by their inherent per- 
 fections. And though our limits have not permit- 
 ted us to enlarge particularly on every excellent per- 
 formance which has been added fmce his time, yet 
 we have endeavoured to attend to fuch as were the 
 moft intitled to regard upon the fame account. But 
 this church may be confidered in another view, as 
 the venerable repofitory of rich and interefting ma- 
 terials for the hiftorian, the antiquary, or the heralds- 
 DilHnfticn is of right the claim of virtue alone ;. 
 butdiftindion of birth is not to be defpifed as an ?n- 
 citement to noble a6lions. The independent mind, 
 while it levels all diftindion between one man and 
 another, which is not founded in truth; while, 
 
 tau2;ht 
 
LONDON. 139 
 
 taught by thefe lad exertions of gratitude or afFec- 
 tioji, it looks down on the empty pageantry of Hfe, 
 will ftill preferve a refpedl for the original patriotic 
 motives which firil elevated the man of merit above 
 the vulgar. But we muft not think of entering into 
 a field of fo ample an extent as the antiquities of 
 the abbey. This plan is the moft perfefl: examplar 
 of the heraldry of our anceftors of any in the v/hole 
 Britifli empire. 
 
 In the enclofed part of the abbey, we are particu- 
 larly induced to deplore the devaflation which time 
 and the hand of violence has produced. The tomb 
 ot Edward the ConfelTor, conveys fcarce an idea of 
 the grandeur and richnefs of ornament it once pof- 
 fefled. The monument of Henry III. has hardly 
 enough of its curious mofaic work left to fhew its 
 former cofily appearance. Henry the Vth's fhrine is 
 falling in pieces by the perifhablenefs of its m.ate- 
 rials. The expenfive arrangements of the higheft 
 polifhed and moft beautifully variegated marble are 
 corroded and defaced by time, fo that it is with dif- 
 ficulty feen what the materials are compofed of. 
 Henry Vllth's chapel fhews more the traits of vio- 
 lence than of decay. Of the many images ^vhich de- 
 corated the flails, no more than one remains to fhew 
 the ftyle in v/hich they were done, and that one will 
 probably be foon removed by the bribery of fome 
 antiquary who may fancy it. The curious wood 
 carvings under the feats have fufFered lefs than might 
 have been expcf^cd, but that is, perhaps, owing 
 
 tOL 
 
140 TOUR THRO r c H 
 
 to their being generally ovcrloclced. And the 
 fhrine itfejf of the founder has received all the in- 
 jury, which the compaftnefs and flrengtli of the 
 workmanftiip would eafily admit of. 
 
 It is a fdCi not generally known, or at Icaft, not 
 generally attended to, that moft kinds of marble are 
 ft'Iuble in rxids, and many even iii water. From 
 this caufe it is, that the water, which being con- 
 dcnfed out of the air at certain feafons flows along 
 the furface of the marble, foon ceftroys its polifn, 
 und not unfrequently eats cavities in its fubftnnce. 
 And hence thtfe monument?, which originally were 
 the moft fplendid and curious, are at the fame time 
 the moft perifnable j the durability of the feveral 
 kinds of marble being remarkably different. It is a 
 matter of fome furprize, upon reflection, that the art 
 of pottery has not been made ufe of in works whofe 
 avowed intention is to laft for ages. The fineft 
 models of figures, bas reliefs, ornaments, &c. might 
 be formed in clay, and receive from the furnace a 
 degree of hardnefs capable of enduring to eternity. 
 The ancients applied this art to purpofes of this na- 
 ture, and we pofl'efs urns and encauftic paintings to- 
 this day, which were fabricated, in all probability, 
 earlier than the date of any authentic hiftory. And 
 if the moderns had done the fame, we fliould not at 
 prefent, pore with anxiety over an almoft obliterated 
 infcription, or defaced painting. The pra6licabi- 
 lity of this cannot be doubted by any one, who has 
 
 feezv 
 
LONDON. 141 
 
 fcen the elegant pcrforinaiiccs of our Englifii artifl 
 W^dgv/ood. 
 
 ' I will conclude my remarks on tlie abbey, with 
 fome brief reflections en the ufe uf fepulchral moau- 
 ments in general, which will, at once, ferve to il- 
 luflrate what has been faid on the tombs already 
 eroded, and likewifc be of fome fervice to^the fta- 
 tuary in dcilgning thofe which may fucceed here- 
 afccr. 
 
 ' Ilovv'cver amiabiG fame may appear to the living, 
 it is certainly no advantage to the dead. Whatever 
 dangers they have dared, whatever toils they have 
 undergone, whatever diiHculties they have fur- 
 mounted, the grave is deaf to the voice of applaufe, 
 and the dufl of the noble and vulgar fleep in the 
 fame obfcurity together. It is poffible, the confcious 
 fpirit may have an idea of the honours that are paid 
 to his aflies ; but it is much more probable, that the 
 profpe6t of this imaginary glory, while he lived 
 among us, was all the pleafure it ever could aitord 
 him. 
 
 * I make this obfervation, becaufe moft monu- 
 ments are faid to be erected as an honour to the 
 dead, and the living are fuppofed to. be the }eafl 
 concerned in them. Whereas, on the contrary, 
 there are few but what were rather founded in com- 
 pliment to the builder's vanity, than in refpect to 
 the name they are infcribed with. One man's fame 
 is made the foundation of another's, in the fame 
 
 manner 
 
14-2 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 manner with the gentleman's, who ordered this fen- 
 tencc to be made his epitaph : Here lies Sir Philip 
 Sidney's friend. 
 
 ' Some there are that mention only the names of 
 the perfons whofe dull they cover, and preferve a 
 noble filence with regard to the hand that ralfed 
 them : but even here the dead can receive no benefit 
 from fuch difinterefted afFedlion ; but the living may 
 profit much by fuch an example. Another thing 
 that difpleafes me is, the manner of the infcriptions, 
 which frequently miflake the very defign of en- 
 graving them, and as frequently give the lie to 
 themfclvcs. To pore one's felf blind in guefTing 
 out JEterncv memories facrwr:^ is a jefl", that would 
 make Heraclitus laugh ; and yet moft of them begin 
 in that pompous taftc, without the Icaft refle(5lion 
 that brafs and marble caimot preferve themfelves 
 from the tooth of time : and if men's a£lions have 
 not guarded their reputations, the proudeft monu- 
 ment would flatter in vain. 
 
 ' I do not fay thefe things becaufe I am an enemy 
 to the cuftom ; fo far from it, no one can admire 
 it more : but what I intend if, to place every thing 
 on its right principle, and recommend the propereft 
 means for the confequence. It is certain there is 
 not a nobler amufement in the v/orld, than a walk 
 in Wcftminfter-abbey, among the tombs of heroes, 
 patriots, poets, and philofophers. You are fur- 
 rounded with the fhades of your great forefathers ; 
 I you 
 
LONDON. 
 
 143 
 
 you feel tlic influence of their venerable fociety, and 
 grow fond of fame and virtue in the contemplation. 
 It is the fineft fchool of morality, and the moil 
 beautiful flatterer of the imagination in nature. 
 
 ' I appeal to every man's mind, that has any 
 tafte for what is fublime and noble, for a witnefs to 
 the pleafurc he experiences on this occafion ; and, I 
 dare believe, he will acknowledge, that there is no 
 entertainment fo various, or fo inftrudlive. For 
 my own part, I have fpent many an hour of pleafing 
 melancholy in its venerable walks; and have been 
 more delighted with the folemn converfation of the 
 dead, than the moft fprightly failles of the living, 
 I have examined the characters that were infcribcd 
 before me, and diftinguiilied every particular virtue. 
 The monuments of real fame I have viewed with 
 real rcfpeit ; but the piles that wanted a charadler to 
 excufe them, I confidered as the monuments of folly. 
 I have wandered with pleafure into the moft gloomy 
 recefles of this laft refort of grandeur, to contemplate 
 hum.an life, and trace mankind through all the wil- 
 dernefs of their frailties and misfortunes, from their 
 cradles to their grave. I have refledted on the 
 ftiortnefs of our duration here, and that I was born 
 ' one of the millions who had been employed in the 
 fame manner, in ruminating on the trophies of 
 mortality before me ; that I muft moulder to duft in 
 the fame manner, and quit the fcene to a new gene- 
 xatJon, without leaving the fliadow of my exiftence 
 
 behind 
 
144 TOUR T H R O U G Jl 
 
 behind me ; that this huge fabric, this facred repo- 
 fitory of fame and grandeur, would only be the fta2;e 
 for the fame performance; would receive new ac- 
 ceflions of noble duft j would be adorned with other 
 fepulchres of coft and magnificence ; wou!d be 
 crov/ded with fuccefiive admirers ; and, at lafl, by 
 the unavoidable decays of time, bury the whole col- 
 lection of antiquities in general obfcurity, and be 
 the monument of its own ruins. 
 
 ' Yet, in fplte of thefe refle6lions, this plain 
 profpe6l of general decay, I mufl own, it is a great 
 pleafure to me to fee a new ftatue added to the laft ; 
 to fee another nnme of glory increafmg the cata- 
 logue : it is a tafte I am particularly fond of, and 
 what I congratulate the prefcnt age for encouraging 
 fo much. I am always of the firil to furvey a new 
 monument, to criticife on its beauties, and point 
 o;jt its defccls. I have fometimes tlie pleafure of 
 obferving a beauty, and often a fault, in our modern 
 artifls J and Ihou'd be glad to take an occafion of 
 applauding the iirft, and mending the laft. I would 
 have all v/orks of ornament perfe(5fly beautiful and 
 elegant, or elfe they difappoint the very intent of 
 their being. I would have all ftatuary, in a pecu- 
 liar manner, excellent. A polite people are moft 
 diilinguiTned as fuch, by their building their ftatues, 
 and their infcriptions ; and, I am forry to fay, we 
 are generally dtfedtive in all. There is one noble 
 lord amoiigft uSj indeed, who has taken great pains, 
 
 and 
 
LONDON. 145 
 
 and been at vaft expence, in improving our tafte in 
 one of thefe particulars ; but I do not find fo emi- 
 nent an example, has influenced many more to an 
 emulation of what has done him fo much honour. 
 In a word, fepulchral monuments (hould be always 
 confidered as the laft public tribute which is paid to 
 virtue ; as a proof of our regard for noble charailers, 
 and, moft particularly, as an excitement to others 
 to emulate the great example. In a word, I can- 
 not look upon that which is raifed over the afhes of 
 Sir Ifaac Newton in any other light : his honours 
 were all owing to his own merit ; neither is it in 
 the power of the fineft flatue, or the fublimeft in- 
 fcription, to afford him any addition. Had his re- 
 niains refted without a name, like Shaftefbury or 
 NafTau, it would have been a new reproach to an 
 ungrateful people, but no injury to him. On the 
 other hand, the utmoft magnificence of funeral 
 honours would only be a credit to us, without doing 
 him any fervice. -Hiving lately obferved that this 
 {lately maufoleuni had made the entrance into the 
 choir irregular, it was anfwered, that if we waited 
 for an equal name among the moderns to make it 
 uniform, it would hardly be fo to eternity ; and if 
 an inferior was to be ranged with him, it would be 
 a difad vantage to both. It is mofl certain, that 
 there are few characters that approach any thing 
 near to an equality ; and the many vain trials that 
 have been made for his epitaph, are the highefl com- 
 H pliment 
 
X46 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 pliment to his ddert : it is a proof that language 
 was too weak to exprefs it, and hyperbole itfelftoo 
 faint for the admiration that was due to his accom- 
 plifhments,' 
 
 Before we finifh eur morning's to-ur, it will 
 be worth oar at-tention to crofs Weftminfter- 
 bridge. 
 
 This bridge, built over the river Thames from 
 the city of Weftminfter to the oppofite fhore, is 
 unlverfally allowed to be one of the fineft in the 
 world, it is neat aiad elegant, and polTefles fuch 
 fimplicity and grandeur, that whether viewed from 
 the water, or by the paflengers who walk over it, it 
 fills the mind with an agreeable furprize. The 
 femi-ochmgular towers, of which there are txventy- 
 •cight, twelve covered with half domes, and moft of 
 them having feats, form the recefles of the foot -way j 
 and over the ctnter arch are pedeftals. The baluf- 
 trade is very lofty and noble, and the manner of 
 placing the la-mps, which are fixteen on each fide, 
 is beautiful and well contrived. 
 
 It is forty-four feet wide ; the foot way is {even. 
 feet broad on each fide, rr.ifed above the road, and 
 paved witli broad Moor ftones, while the fpace be- 
 tween them v/ill admit of three carriage?, and two 
 horfes, to go a-breaft. 
 
 Its extent from wharf to wharf is 1223 feet. 
 Juft above and below the abutment at each end, 
 are large and commodious flights of Moor ftone 
 
 {Icps, 
 
LONDON. 14.7 
 
 fieps, Ibr the fhipplng and landing of goods and 
 paflengers. 
 
 It confifts of fourteen piers. The length of every 
 pier, from point to point, is about feventy feet; the 
 ends againft either ftream terminating with a faliant 
 right angle. 
 
 The two middle piers are each feventeen feet 
 wide at the fpringing of the arches, and contain 
 3000 cubic feet, or near 200 tons of folid ftone : 
 the reft decreafe in breadth equally on each fide by 
 one foot, fo that the next to the largefl is fixteen 
 feet, and the laft twelve. ' 
 
 Each of thefe piers are four feet wider at their 
 foundation, than at the top ; and are laid on a 
 ftrong bed of timber, of the fame fliape as the pier, 
 about eighty feet long, twenty-eight broad, and 
 two thick. 
 
 The depths or heights of the piers are diffe- 
 rent: none of their fov.ndations are laid at a lefs 
 depth than five feet under the bed of the river, and 
 none at a greater depth than fourteen feet : this dif- 
 ference is occafioned by the bed of gravel, on which 
 all the foundations of the piers and abutments ai^ 
 laid, lying much lower, and being more difficult 
 to come at, on the Surry fi-de than on the Weft- 
 minfter. 
 
 The piers are all built throughout of folid Port- 
 land block-ftones, none lefs than one ton, or 2000 
 weight, unlcfs here and there a fmaller, called 3 
 H 2 clofer. 
 
148 TOUR THROUGH- 
 
 clofer, placed between four other larger flonesf 
 but moft of them are two or three tons weight, and 
 feveral of four or five tons. They are fet in, and 
 their joints filled with, a cement called Dutch tarras ; 
 and they are befides faflened together with iron 
 cramps, run in with lead, which are fo placed that 
 they can neither be fecn, or be aftccled by the 
 water. 
 
 The caiflbn on which the firft pier was funk, 
 contained 150 loads of timber; for it is a precaution 
 ufed, in moft heavy buildings, to lay their founda- 
 tions on planks, or beds of timber, which (if found 
 when laid, and always kept wet) will not only re- 
 main found, but grow harder by time. 
 
 The value of 40,0001. is computed to be always 
 under water, in ftone and other materials. 
 
 It has thirteen large, and two fmall femi-circular 
 arches, that form being one of the ftrongeft, and the 
 beft adapted for difpatch in building. They all 
 fpring from about two feet above low-water mark ; 
 v/hich renders the bridge much ftronger than if the 
 arches fprung from taller piers. 
 
 * The middle arch is feventy-fix feet wide, and 
 the others decreafe in width equally on each fide by 
 four feet ; fo that the two next are feventy-two feet 
 wide, and the leaft twenty-five feet. The free 
 water-way, under the arches of this bridge, is 870 
 feet ; which noble paflages, together with the gen- 
 tlenefs of the ftream, are the chief reafons why no 
 
 fenfible 
 
LONDON. 149 
 
 fenfiblc fall of water can ever Hop, or in the lead 
 endanger the fmalleft boats. 
 
 It has been computed, that the quantity of ftonc 
 contained in the middle arch, exclufive of the frieze, 
 cornice, and foot-ways, is full 500 tons. 
 
 The foffiet of every arch is turned and built 
 quite through, the fame as in the fronts,, with large 
 Portland bloclcs ; over which is built (bonded ia 
 with the Portland) another arch of Purbeck ftone, 
 four or five times thicker on the reins than over the 
 key ; fo calculated and built, that by the help of this 
 fecondary arch, together with the incumbent load of 
 materials, aU the parts of every arch are in equi- 
 librio: fo that each arch can ftand fingle, without 
 afFeding, or being aiFecled by, any of the othev 
 arches. 
 
 Between every two arches a drain is contri1,'ed 
 to carry off the water and filth. Some bridges have 
 been ruined for want of this precaution. 
 
 The fize and difpofition of all the materials are 
 fuch, that there is no falfe bearing, or fo much as a 
 falfe joint, in the whole bridge : fo that every part is 
 fully and properly fupported j and whatever ought 
 to be of one ftone, is not made of feveral fmall 
 ones. 
 
 One of the piers funk in 1749, when the bridge 
 was almoft complete, which damaged its arch fo 
 much, tliat it was thought proper to pull it dowa 
 and rebuild it. 
 
 H 2 The 
 
150 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 ^ The firft ftone of this noble ftrudture was laid 
 €n the 29th of January, 1 738-9, by the carl of 
 Pembroke j and the laft was laid on the loth of 
 November, 1750, by Thomas Lediard, Efq; fo 
 that the whole time employed in erefting it was 
 ekven years and nine months. 
 
 For defraying the expence, there was £, 
 
 Granted by parliament, 192,000 
 
 Raifed by lottery, -— 197,500 
 
 389,500 
 
 The view from Weftminfter-bridge is very pleaf- 
 ing, and the avenues which lead to it are dire<f^, 
 open, and fpacious, Lambeth has been conGder- 
 :;bly improved fmce its eredlion, though much re- 
 mains yet to be done. The remarkables here are 
 fcv/. Aftley's riding-fchool is on the right hand, at 
 a fniall diftance from the bridge. A place at which 
 there are public exhibitions of horfemanftiip, with 
 tumbling, and other feats of a6livity. Farther on 
 to the left is the Weftminfter Lying-in hofpital ; 2 
 neat building, which, in its conftitution, is more 
 liberal tlian any other in this metropolis. For every 
 other hofpital of this kind refufes admittance to the 
 unfortunate, who have been feduced, and are not 
 married ; but this, under proper regulations, is cal- 
 culated to alleviate the diftrefs of thofe, whofe mifery 
 
 is 
 
LONDON. ijr 
 
 IS attciKled with the additional burthen of guilt ar,€ 
 felf- condemnation. 
 
 Beyond the turnpike, at the entrance of St. 
 George's fields, is an hofpital for the reception and 
 education of female orphans. It is called the ArY- 
 lum, or houfe of refuge, and was inflituted in ly^S^ 
 The evils this charity is intended to prevent are nst 
 chimerical, but founded on fa6ts. It too often hap- 
 pens, that by the death of the father^ a mother ia- 
 titled to no relief from any parifli, is left with fevcrat 
 helplefs children, to be fupplied from her induftry. 
 Her refourcc for fubfiftence is ufually to fome low 
 ©ccupation, fcarcely fufRcient to afford bread and 
 clothing, and rarely the means of irtftruxflion.- What 
 then muft become of the daughters of fuch parents,. 
 poor and illiterate as they are, and thereby expofcJ. 
 to every temptation ? NeceiEty may make them 
 proftitutes, even before their pafllons can have any 
 Ihare in their guilt. Among thefe unhappy objeds 
 very agreeable features are frequently feen, difguifed 
 amidft dirt and rags, and this ftill expofes them to 
 greater hazards ; for thefe are the girls which the 
 vile procurefs feeks after j fhe trepans them to her 
 brothel, even while they are yet children,, and fhe 
 cleans and drefles them up for proftitution. But 
 what is ftill more dreadful, maternal duty and affec- 
 tion have been fo thoroughly obliterated, that even 
 mothers themfelves have been the feducers. They 
 have infnared their children to the houfe of the pro- 
 H 4 curefsy 
 
152 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 curefs, and fhared with her the infamous gain of 
 initiating their daughters in lewdnefs. Or, if this 
 has not been the cafe, they have too often been 
 prevailed on, for a trifling confideration, to conceal 
 and forgive the crime of the infamous bawd. 
 
 This truly humane and charitable inftitution, of 
 rcfcuing the young and innocent from impending 
 deftrudVion and ruin, is fupported by voluntary con- 
 tributions, and is, at prefent, in a flourifliing ftate» 
 
 M O R N I N G 
 
LONDON. 153 
 
 MORNING V. 
 
 WE fhall "begin the prefent day's tour at the 
 north-end of Fleet-market, and walk from 
 thence along Holborn, and Oxford-ftreet, to the 
 upper end of Park-lane ; ftepping occafianally afide, 
 when any thing deferving attention fliall attract our 
 notice. 
 
 * St. Andrew's church, in Holborn, has the ad- 
 vantage of a very good fituation, but then it defervcs 
 it as Uttle as any modern church in the v/hole city.. 
 The tower is even below criticifm, but the infide 
 of the building makes amends for the • aukwardn'efs 
 o[' the cut : and is really as neat, and well finifheJ, 
 as the manner and tafVc it is formed in will allow.' 
 
 From the foot of Holborn-hill to'Dean-fircet,. 
 Red-lion-fquare, the llreet of Holborn is of a great 
 width, and almoft entirely ftrait ; and if the houfcs 
 were at all regular, it would be one of the nobleft 
 ftreets in Europe. The diftance between thefe ex- 
 tremities is more than half a mile. At about the 
 middle diftance ftands a capital blemifli to the whole, 
 nanvely, the pile of houfes which contain the paflage 
 called Middle-row. As thefe .houfes arc in them-, 
 felves contemptible, and inhabited only by the' 
 H 5 manner 
 
154 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 meaner clafs of tradefmen, we are not without hope 
 that parliament will, fome time or other, remove 
 this nuifance. 
 
 On the right hand of Holborn-hill is a regular 
 and open ftreet, lately built on the fcite of Ely- 
 houfe. 
 
 Thf next ftreet on the fame fide, that is to fay, 
 Hatton-ftreet, is very long, ftrait, and fpacious. 
 The houfes are tolerably regular, but have no claim 
 to any notice confidered individually. 
 
 Higher up, on the fame fide, is Furnival's-inn» 
 which is one of the inns of Chancery. The front 
 next the flreet is an old brick building, and is no 
 inconfiderable ornament to the place. The arch in 
 the center leads into a fpacious court, behind which 
 is a pleafant fmall garden. 
 
 Nearly oppofite to this, on the other fide of the 
 way, is Staple's-inn, another of the inns of Chan- 
 cery. It confifls of two fquare courts enclofed 
 by buildings, which are lofty, and ia tolerable good 
 condition. 
 
 The chief entrance into Gray's-inn is through 
 an arch on the north fide of Holborn, a little beyond 
 Middle-row. This is one of the four inns of court, 
 and is inhabited by barrifters and ftudents in the 
 law, as alfo by private gentlemen, who may chufe 
 chambers in preference to common lodgings. It 
 confifts of feveral well-built and fpacious courts ; 
 but its chief ornament is the garden, the benefit of 
 
 which 
 
LONDON. 155 
 
 which is enjoyed by the public, every perfon de- 
 cently drefled being allowed the recreation of walk- 
 ing in it every day. This garden confifts of gravet 
 walks between viftas of trees, of grafs-plats, agree- 
 able flopes, and a terrace, with a portico at each 
 end. This terrace is afcended by a handfome flight 
 of fteps. Formerly there was a fummer-houfe, 
 erefled by the great Sir Francis Bacon, upon a 
 fmall mount. It was open on all fides, and the 
 roof fupported by flender pillars. But the uninter- 
 rupted profpecSl of the neighbouring fields, whicb^ 
 extended as far as the hills of Highgate and Hamp- 
 ftead, has been obftru6ted by the buiWings fince 
 ere£led to the northward. In confequence of which,, 
 the fociety have levelled the fummer-houfe and 
 mount, and cut down many of the trees, to render 
 the gardens more airy and- open.. 
 
 ' Bedford-row is one of the moft noble flreets 
 London has to boaft of, and yet there is not one 
 houfe in it which deferves the leaft attention. Even 
 that fide of the way which is next the gardens, is re- 
 markable for nothing but its regularity; the build- 
 ings themfelves being void of all fvmmetcyand pro- 
 portion, and in a tafte altogether Gothic and clum- 
 fy. But after all, we cannot but admire the gran- 
 deur and length of the whole.' 
 
 The hofpital for expofed and deferted children,. 
 
 commonly called the Foundling-hofpital, is fituated 
 
 in the fields near the north end of Lamb's Conduit- 
 
 ftreet. It is a plain, fpacious, aiid regular brick 
 
 H 6 buildmg,. 
 
156 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 building, confiiHng of a center and two wings, and 
 has a much better general effcS: than many ftruftures 
 which are more ornamented. l"he eftabliftiment of 
 this hofpital was,for fome years, impeded by the back- 
 wardnefs of fuch people as thought it would tend 
 to encourage licentioufnefs; but the afiiduity of Mr. 
 Coram, a commander in the merchants fervice, 
 who devoted the remainder of his life to this pur- 
 pofe, procured a charter to be granted in 1739; 
 iince which time it has been much encouraged, and 
 at prefcnt they receive by ballot generally ten chil- 
 dren in a month. None are admitted who exceed 
 the age of two months, and by changing their 
 name and habit, it is made impoflible for the 
 parents to recover or recognize them, but by the 
 permiilion and communication of the governors, 
 who will reftore them upon petition, after receiv- 
 ing fufficient proofs of the right of the parent; 
 who is previoully required to make fuch a pecu- 
 niary compcnfation to the hofpital, as may be judged 
 adequate confiftently with his or her circumftances, 
 and alfo to find fecurity that it (hall not be again 
 left deftitute and without provifion. 
 
 The influence which hospitals have on the man- 
 ners and conduct of a people, has never been di- 
 redlly and immediately examined into. The fub- 
 je61: is generally confidered in a favourable light, and 
 the fuperficial enquirer naturally concludes, that if 
 it be laudable to relieve and fupport a fellow-crea- 
 ture, it muft be much more fo to affift a greater 
 
 number. 
 
LONDON. 157 
 
 number. But the man of penetration will not be 
 fo eafily fatisiied, when he confiders the effects of li- 
 berality, either to an intlividual or a number of peo- 
 ple. Our own feelings may deceive us, and we 
 may fuppofe want and wretchednefs to exift, while 
 the object of our pity, being a flranger to what we 
 call aiEuence and eafe, may not eveji fu(peoi, that 
 he has a right to repine. In fuch a cafe, if we iad- 
 minifter a temporary fupply to thofe wants we ima- 
 gine him to feel, we in reality do him an injury, by 
 depriving him of that contentment which it is ne- 
 ceflary for the good of fociety tliat every one fliould 
 enjoy in his ftation, however degraded among the va- 
 rious ranks of which it is compofed. It anuft be con- 
 fefied, however, that almofl: all om" charitable inlVi- 
 lutions are of the rational kind, aad tend not fo much 
 to fupport the individual, as to enable him to fupport 
 himfelf. To give health to the poor nian is^ giving 
 him, and perhaps a numerous family, theineans of fub- 
 fiilenGe. To ref!:ore the wretched proftitutc to the 
 arms of that fociety from which fhe had long been 
 efteemed an outcail, is an exertion of benevolence 
 whofe value can be truly efteemed only by her who 
 enjoys it ; though a parent may form feme idea of 
 its confequence by reflecling, that many of thofe 
 unhappy and defpifed females once formed the dar- 
 ling hope of pai-ental fondnefs, before the pov^er of 
 fedutlion had led tliem to infamy and difhonour. 
 The aged and infirm, who have pailcd through the 
 toils of life, and are arrived neav the clofe of it with- 
 out 
 
r^S TOUR THROUGH 
 
 out fuccefs in their purfuits, have a right to that 
 pittance which wealth and Induftry may fpare, to 
 protedVthem from poverty and diftrefs. If ever the 
 weak and defencelefs fex are intitled to tendernefs 
 and afliftanee from mankind, then furely their claim 
 is undoubted, when the feafon of approaching dan- 
 ger calls for every help which kindnefs and huma- 
 nity can beftowj nothing, therefore, can be more 
 worthy of approbation, or confident with the good' 
 of the community, than thofe inftitutions which af- 
 ford relief to the child-bearing poor. And among 
 fuch a variety of exertions of the divine principle of 
 benevolence, fhall the feeble cries of the deferted 
 and expofed infant be unheard ? A helplefs little be- 
 ing, born to mifery, and expofed to the inclement 
 night, by the horrid cruelty of that mother to whom 
 its wants ought to plead for every attention and 
 care ! Every tie of nature, every generous, every 
 amiable emotion of the heart forbid it ! 
 
 Thefe are the thoughts of the glowing mind that 
 feels for the woe of others, that fympathizes with 
 their grief and relieves it. But it is demanded on 
 the other hand, whether the mother would expofe 
 and defert her infant if fhe imagined it would perifli ? 
 Nay, rather is it not the certainty of its being pro- 
 vided for, which has induced her to the action? And 
 if fo, it may be afked, whether an inftitution which 
 deprives many infants of that paternal care and even 
 fondnefs, which a few months would have produced, 
 and which deprives parents of one of the flrongeft of all 
 
 induce- 
 
LONDON. 159 
 
 inducements to fobriety, frugality, and Induftry, by 
 tempting tiiem to part with their children, can be 
 called a public benefit ? If it be replied, that the 
 tendernefs which is natural in parents towards their 
 oftspring, will prevent the evil from being of any 
 importance, the anfwer will confift in referring to 
 the French Etremies, in which it appears, that the 
 number of births yearly in Paris is about 19,000, 
 of which more than 6000 are enfam trouvees, or 
 children foimd in the ftreetsj that is to fay, near one 
 third of the whole ! 
 
 ' Ormond - ftreet is a place of pleafure, and 
 that fide of it next the fields is, beyond queftion, one 
 of the moft charming fituations about town. 
 
 ' Qiieen's-fquare is an area of a peculiar kind, 
 being left open on one fide, for the fake of the beau- 
 tiful landfcape, which is formed by the hills of 
 Highgate and Hampftead, together with the adja- 
 cent fields ; a delicacy vi^ich deferves fome appro- 
 bation, both as it is an advantage to the inhabitants, 
 and a beauty even with regard to the fquare itfelf.' 
 
 Red-lion-fquare has, perhaps, the leaft of mag- 
 nificence of any in town ; neither is there any difplay 
 of tafte in the inclofed area. An anonymous writer 
 obferves, that it is calculated to infpire funereal 
 ideas. ' I am fure,' fays he, ' I never go into it 
 without thinking of my latter end. The rough fod 
 that heaves in many a mouldering heap, the dreary 
 length of the fides, with the four watch-houfes like 
 io many family-vaults at the corners, and the naked 
 5 ebelifk 
 
l60 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 obeliikthat fprin'gs from amidft the rank grafs, liTce 
 the fad monument of a widow for the lofs of her 
 firfl hufband, form all together a memento more 
 powerful to me than a death's-head and crofs 
 marrow-bones : and were but the parfon's bull to 
 be feen bellowing at the gate, the idea of a country 
 church-yard would be compleat.' 
 
 * Southampton-row is a range of buildings, which 
 feems to have been built only for the fake of the 
 profpcifl before it ; and for fuch who prefer no con - 
 veniency to that, no fituation can be more happy ; 
 but, for my own part, I ihould be uneafy in rcftding 
 there for want of fhelter from the wind in winter, 
 and the fun in fummer.' 
 
 Bloomibury-fquare is neat and elegant, but, like 
 moft others in town, irregular. The houfes, in 
 general, are above the ftyle of a common ftreet, 
 except at the fouth fide, which is difgraccd with 
 fome that may even be called mean. 
 
 * The o;rcund on which the duke of Bedford's 
 houfe nov/ flands, is, beyojid ail difpute, of the 
 fineft fituation in Europe for a palace ; and I am 
 not a little grieved to fee it fo wretchedly mif- 
 employed. In the firft place, it has one whole fide 
 of a fquare for a front, and the fquare itfclf would 
 ferve as a magnificent area before it. Then there is 
 a grand ftrcct jufl oppofitc to it, which throws the 
 profpedl of it open to Holborn, and muft excite the 
 curiofity of every pafTenger to regard it and admire 
 it. Then behind it has the advantage of moit 
 
 agree- 
 
LONDON. i6i 
 
 agreeable gardens, and a view of the country, 
 which would make a retreat from town almoft un- 
 necefl'ary : bcfides the opportunity of exhibiting 
 another profpe(3: of the building, which would enrich 
 the landfcape, and challenge new approbation.' 
 
 Our author has not pointed out his reafons ,for 
 difapproving Bedford-houfe ; and, we confefs, that 
 we are not ready to difcover them. To us it appears 
 worthy of its excellent fituation, and of its architect 
 Inigo Jones. Its principaV fault feems to be a want 
 of fufficient elevation and variety ; but, on the 
 whole, it has a gay and chearful appearance, which 
 the lownefs of the fcreen tends not a little to im- 
 prove. 
 
 * It will be impoflible to pafs by the church of 
 St. George's, Bloomfbury, without giving it a very 
 particular furvey. It is built all of ftone, is adorned 
 with a pompous portico, can boaft many other de- 
 corations, has been ftinted in no expence ; and 
 yet, upon the whole, is ridiculous and abfurd even 
 to a proverb. The reafon is this — the builder mif- 
 took whim for genius, and ornament for tafte. He 
 erred fo much, that the very portico does not feem 
 to be in the middle of the church ; and as to the 
 fteeple, it is {luck on like a wen to the reft of the 
 building. Then the execrable conceit of fitting 
 up the king on the top of it, excites nothing but 
 laughter in the ignorant, and contempt in the judge. 
 In (hort, it is a lafting refle(Stion on the fame of the 
 
 architect. 
 
j6i tour through 
 
 archite£t, and the underftanding of thofe who em- 
 ployed him. 
 
 * Montague-houfe, now the Mufeum, was lon»> 
 but ridiculoufly, efteemed one of the moft beautiful 
 buildings about town. I muft own it is grand and 
 expenfive, will admit of very noble ranges of apart- 
 ments within, and fully anfwers all the dignity of a 
 Britifh nobleman of the firft rank: but after I hare 
 allowed this, I muft add, that the entrance into the 
 court-yard is mean and Gothic, more like the portal 
 cf a monaftery than the gate of a palace ; and the 
 cupola over it, is even ftill more contemptible and 
 abfurd. I am ready to confefs the area fpacious and 
 grand, the colonnade to the wings graceful and har- 
 monious ; but then the wings themfelves are no 
 way equal to it, and the body of the houfe has no 
 other recommendation than merely its bulk, and 
 the quantity of fpace it fills. It is my opinion, that 
 the height is not adequate to the length, and that the 
 roof and garrets are both a load to the febric, and 
 abfurd in themfelves ; that the windows are too 
 large and numerous ; that decorations are wanting; 
 and that the whole front is defeftive, both in beauty 
 and variety.' 
 
 Sir Hans Sloane, Bart, may be juftly termed the 
 founder of the Britifhi Mufeum ; for its being efta- 
 blifhed by parliament, was only in confequence of 
 his leaving, by will, his noble colleftion of natural 
 hiftory, his large library, and his numerous curio - 
 fitic6» which coft him 50,000!. to the ufe of the 
 
 public^ 
 
LONDON, 163 
 
 public, on condition that the parliament would pay 
 20,000 1. to his executors. And, indeed, this drf- 
 pofition of Sir Hans was extremely well calculated 
 to anfwer his generous defign ; for had he given the 
 whole to the public, without any payment at all, it 
 could have been of little u(e, without the afliftance 
 of parliament, to fettle a fund for the fupport of 
 officers, &c. 
 
 Sir Hans appointed a number of truftees, on. 
 whofe application to parliament an aft was pafled 
 for raifmg 300,000!. by way of lottery; 200,000 U 
 thereof to be fhared among the adventurers, 20,00oi. 
 to be paid to Sir Hans Sloane's executors, 10,000 1. 
 to purchafe lord Oxford's manufcripts, 30,000!. to 
 be vefted in the funds for fupplying falaries for 
 officers, and other necefTary expences, and the re- 
 fidue for providing a general repofitory. In this a6l 
 it Is alfo ordered, that Sir Hans Sloane's coUeftioa, 
 the Cottonian library, the Harleian manufcripts, 
 and a collection of books given by the late major 
 Edwards, fhould be placed together in the general 
 repofitory, which was to be called the Britifh Mu* 
 feum. 7,000 1. left by the faid major Edvi^rds, 
 after the deceafe of Elizabeth Mills, are alfo given 
 to the Britifh Mufeum, for the purchafing of manu- 
 fcripts, books, medals, and other curiofities. In 
 the year 1772, parliament purchafed Sir Williasn 
 Hamilton's large colleftion of Greek, Roman, and 
 Etrufcan antiquities, and placed them here. 
 
 It 
 
164 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 It happened very fortunately foon after that, while 
 the truftees were at a lofs where to purchafe or build 
 a proper repofitory, an offer was made them of 
 Montague-houfe, in Great Rufiel-ftreet. This 
 they purchafed for the fum of 1 0,000 1. repairs, al- 
 terations, book-cafes, cabinets, and all ether con- 
 vcniencies for placing the whole collection properly, 
 and the making apartments for the officers, have 
 coft 15,0001. more. And every part is now fo ex- 
 cellently contrived for holding this noble collection, 
 and the difpofition of it, in the fcvcral rooms, is fo 
 orderly and well defigned, that the Britifh Mufeum 
 may be juftly efteemed an honour and ornament to 
 the nation. To this collection his Majefty has been 
 pleafed to add the royal library of books, coUeded 
 by the feveral kings of England. 
 
 The Sloanian collection confifts of an amazing 
 number of curiofities, among which are, 
 
 The library, including books of drawings, manu- 
 fcripts, and prints, amounting to about vols. 50,000 
 Medals and coins, — — 23,000 
 
 Cameos and intaglios, — — 700 
 
 Seals, — — • — 268 
 
 Veflels, &c. of agate, jafpcr, &c. — 542 
 
 Antiquities, — — — 1 1 25 
 
 Precious ftones, agates, jafpers, &c. — 2256 
 Metals, minerals, ores, &c. — 2725. 
 
 Cryftals, fpars. Sec. — — 1864 
 
 Foifils, flints, ftones, — — 1275 
 
 Earths, fands, fait, <— — 103 5 
 
 Bitumens, 
 
LONDON. i6s 
 
 Bitumens, fulphurs, ambers, &c. — 399 
 
 Talcs, micae, &c. — — 388 
 
 Corals, fpunges, &c. — — 1421 
 
 Teftacea, or (hells, &:c. — — 5^45 
 
 Echini, echinitse, &c. — — 659 
 
 Aftcriae, trochi, entrochi, &c, — 241 
 
 Cruflacse, crabs, lobftcrs, &c. — 363 
 
 Stellae marinae, ftar fidies, Szc. — 173 
 
 Fiflics and their parts, — — 1555 
 
 Birds and their parts, eggs, neils, &c. 1 172 
 
 Qiiadrupeds, &c. — — 1886 
 
 Vipers, ferpents, 5cc. — — 521 
 
 Infedls, kc. — — — 5439 
 
 Vegetables, — — — 12,506 
 
 Hortus ficcus, or volumes of dried plants, 334 
 
 Humana, as calculi, anatomical preparations,&c." 756 
 Mifcellaneous things natural, — 2og8 
 
 Mathematical inftruments — 55 
 
 A catalogue of all the above is written in 38 vo- 
 lumes in folio, and eight in quarto. 
 
 As this noble collection of curiofities, and thefe 
 excellent libraries, are now chiefly defigned for the 
 ufe of learned and ftudious men, both natives and 
 foreigners in their refearches into the fevera! parts 
 of knowledge, the truftees have thought fit to or- 
 dain feveral ftatutes, or regulations, refpefting the 
 ufe of the Mufeum. 
 
 By thefe ftatutes it is ordered, that the Mufeum 
 be kept open every day in the week, Saturdays and 
 Sundays excepted j and likewife except Chriftmas- 
 
 day 
 
l66 TOU*R THROUGH 
 
 day and one week after ; one week after Eafter-day 
 and Whit-Sunday refpeftively ; Good-Friday, and 
 fuch days as (hall hereafter be appointed for thankf- 
 givings and fafts by public authority. 
 
 The method of obtaining a view of the Mufeum 
 is by leaving a writing with the porter, containing 
 the name, condition, and place of abode of the per- 
 fons defirous of being admitted; and upon a fecond 
 application, tickets are delivered, intitling them to 
 fee the Mufeum on a particular diy and hour there- 
 in fignified. The limited time for remaining in 
 any one apartment is one hour, but the companies 
 \jfually pafs through the whole range in lefs than two 
 hours. No officer or fcrvant is permitted to receive 
 any fee or reward for his attendance on the vifitors j 
 and any perfon who is defirous of repeatedly view- 
 ing the Mufeum, may apply for tickets as often as 
 he pleafcs ; which will be iiTued in fuch a manner, 
 that the fame perfon (hall not at any time be in pof- 
 fcilion of tickets for more days than one. 
 
 Studious perfons, who wilh to have accefs to the 
 libraries, may, by application to the committee, 
 obtain an order for that purpofe, which will be in 
 force for half a year, and may be renewed by a frefh 
 application, A room is appointed for the ufe of 
 fuch ftudents or readers, in which they may fit and 
 read or write during the whole time the Mufeum is 
 kept open. Any book is delivered to them by the 
 proper officer, on their giving notice in writing the 
 <Iay before, from which they may take extradsj but 
 
 the 
 
LONDON. 167 
 
 'lie greater part, or whole of any manufcript is not 
 .dlowed to be copied without leave of the committee, 
 
 Bedford-fquareis a proof of the improvement of our 
 tafte. It is without exception the moft perfect fquarc 
 in town. The regularity and fymmetry of the fides, 
 each of which is adorned with a central building 
 faced with flone and enriched with pilafters and a 
 pediment, the great breadth of the pavements, and 
 the neatnefs of the iron-rails, which enclofes an 
 oval grafs-plat, environed by a gravel- walk, render 
 it fuperior in every thing but magnitude to any fquare 
 in Europe. 
 
 From hence we pafs to the fouth into Broad St, 
 Giles's, a flrreet which, from the ruinous ftate of 
 many of its buildings, we may hope fhortly to fee 
 rebuilt in a more regular and confiftent manner. 
 
 * The church at St. Giles's is one of the moft 
 fimple and elegant of the modern ftrudures. It 
 •was raifed at a very little expence, has very few or- 
 naments, and little befide the propriety of its parts, 
 and the harmony of the whole, to excite attention 
 and challenge applaufe; yet ftill itpleafes, and juftly 
 too. The eaft end is both plain and majeftick, and 
 there is nothing in the weit to obje<9: to but the 
 foiallncfs of the doors, and the poverty of appearance 
 that muft neceflarily follow. The fteeple is light, 
 airy, and genteel, argues a good deal of genius in 
 the architect, and looks very well both in compari- 
 fon with the body of the church, and when it is con- 
 fidered as a building by itfclf, in a diftant profpe»5l. 
 
 Yet, 
 
l68 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 Yet, after all I have confcfled in favour of this edi- 
 fice, I cannot help again arguing againft the fuper- 
 ftition of fituating churches due ea(t and weft ; for 
 in complaifance to this folly, the building before us 
 has loft a great advantage it might have otherwife 
 enjoyed; I mean the making the eaft end the front, 
 ?>nd placing it in fuch a manner as to have ended the 
 vifta of v/hat is called Broad St. Giles's; whereas, 
 now it is no v/here to be fcen with cafe to the eye, 
 fo as juftly to comprehend the fymmetry and con- 
 nection of the whole.' 
 
 The bas relief of the refurrecStion, which is over 
 the north gate of the church-yard, is a remarkably 
 bold and chara£l:eriftic piece of carving, and is in good 
 prefervation. This Lift circumftance is, perhaps, 
 ov/ing to the narrovrnefs and hurry of the ftreet, 
 which prevents its being taken notice of. But the 
 fubjecSt is unhappy even for a painter, and much 
 more for a fculptor, as it is impoflible for the moft 
 creative fancy to imagine the fmall number in this 
 ]iiece can reprefent the *' multitude of all nations 
 gathered from all the corners of the earth." The 
 faces feem to want variety. 
 
 Turning to the right from St. Giles's church 
 through a ftreet of fcandaloufly mean and irregular 
 old buildings, we arrive at the end of Oxford-ftreet. 
 For length, breadth, and ftraitnefs Oxford-ftreet is 
 the firft ftreet in the world. It is upwards of 2000 
 yards long, every where of great breadth, and al- 
 moft perfedlly level. Its ftraitnefs is feen to very 
 
 great 
 
LONDON. 169 
 
 great adv^antage at night, by the prodigious number 
 of fine cryftal lamps, which proje6l at equal dif- 
 tances on each fide of the whole length. But we 
 regret very much, that the buildings which compofe 
 it are entirely of the fecond and lower rates ; and as 
 moft of them are of late ere6lion, there is little rea- 
 fon to expe6l that this ftreet will poflefs any unifor- 
 mity of ftruiSlure for a century to come. 
 
 Soho-fquare has no pretenfions to elegance or 
 grandeur, but that of being a fquare. The build- 
 ings which furround it have very little of fymmetry or 
 order ; the area within is too fmall, and the avenues 
 • to the eaft and weft are very indifferent. 
 
 Though the limits of our plan have not allowed 
 us to attend to the various manufadlures which are 
 either made or exhibited in this great metropolis, vet 
 the man of tafte will eafily overlook and even thank 
 us for the irregularity of Introducing him into the 
 exhibition rooms of the well known Wedgwood, in 
 Greek-ftreet. The Briton and the patriot will be 
 charmed with this brilliant difplay of the fkill of that 
 philofopher, who, by a rational fearch into the na- 
 ture of clays and earths, has rendered the Englifli 
 pottery fo very fuperior to that of other nations, 
 that the manufactures of the French antl Dutch are 
 remembered no more, and the wants of all Eu- 
 rope are fupplied by a prodigious export from this 
 kingdom. And v/hile the politician is attentive to 
 the national wealth arifmg from this produce of la- 
 bour and induflry, the connoilfeur will be delighted 
 I - at 
 
170 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 at finding fuch a number of defidcrata in thefe apart- 
 ments. A prodigious coUeclion of imprciTions from 
 antique cameos and intaglios, bas reliefs, medallions, 
 portraits, figure?, vafes, and encauftic paintings in 
 every variety of fhade and colour, are here exhibit- 
 ed for fale, compofed of unperifhable materials, vi'hich 
 are not fufceptible of injury from the keennefs of 
 any tool, or the flill greater keennefs of chemical 
 folvcnts. It is not yet known to what numerous 
 valuable purpofes thefe materials may be applied. 
 We obferved three forts ; namely, a black fubftance 
 of which the feals and vafes are chiefly compofed, 
 which is not diftinguifliable from the black bafaltes 
 or touch-ftone ; a red or brown fubftance fimilar to 
 the matter of the ancient Etrufcan vafes, but more 
 ponderous and hard j and a white fubftance, which 
 in purity of colour, compa(3:nefs and indeftruiflibi- 
 lity, is infinitely preferable to any fpecics of marble 
 or ftone yet made ufe of. 
 
 The newly-erected ftrcets on the north-fide of 
 Oxford-ftreet are fo remarkable for length, ftrait- 
 nefs, and the uniform neatnefs of their buildings, 
 that, in any other part of the world, we fliould be 
 tempted to fpcak largely in their praife ; but the 
 whole of this part of the town is fuch, that thefe 
 p3rfections are not to be efteemed rarities. The 
 prefent tafte is not, indeed, much engaged in works 
 ■of magnificence, yet we muft allow, that the con- 
 venient fimplicity which prevails every where, is 
 3 attended 
 
LONDON. 171 
 
 attended with a confiderable (hare of efFe£t in a ge- 
 neral view. 
 
 Much tafte and invention is difpiayed in the build- 
 ing called the Pantheon. Its exterior has nothing 
 to demand our attention ; on the contrary, the en- 
 trance from Oxford-ftreet may be juftly efleemed a 
 deformitv in itfelf, and an incumbrance to the ftrcet. 
 But the infide is adorned with every embellifhment 
 that modern luxury can wifh for. The principal 
 room is truly magnificent : it is lighted by a cen- 
 trical dome of confiderable magnitude ; 'the galleries 
 are fupported by columns formed of a new-difcovered 
 Gompofitioii, which rivals the fincft marble in co- 
 lour and hardnefs. The roof is fupported by an 
 upper range of them. The ftated divernons of this 
 place is a concert once a fortnight, with a ball after 
 it ; to which any one is admitted, who purchafes the 
 tickets necefTary for that purpofe. Mafquerades arc 
 alfo occafionally held here, when the building is 
 finely illuminated, and has been allowed to exhibit 
 a more fplendid fcene of this kind than is, perhaps, 
 to be beheld in any other country. 
 
 The ftreets which lead from Oxford-road to Ca^ 
 vendifh and Hanover-fquares, prefent a view which 
 does honour to the capital. On the right hand 
 appears the area of Cavendifli-fquare, terminated on 
 the farther fide by two elegant and perfedlly fimilar 
 ftone manfions j and, on the left, th. ftreet gently 
 defcends into Hanover-fquare. In this profpe£l, 
 * the fides of the fquare, the area in the middle, the 
 I 2 breaks 
 
172 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 breaks of the buildings, that form the entrance of the 
 vifta, the vifta itfelf, but, above all, the beautiful 
 prcjeftion of the portico of St. George's church, 
 are all circumftances that unite in beauty, and 
 make the fcene perfect. 
 
 ' If any thing is wanting, it is a graced building 
 at the end of the vifta ; and the chapel, which now 
 ilands there, afforded a hand Tome opportunity even 
 for adding this too, if the undertakers had had taile 
 or generofity enough to make the beft uie of it.' 
 
 Cavendifh-fquare has no reafon to boaft of the 
 order, or uniformity of the buildings, of which it is 
 compofed. The two houfes on the north-fide, 
 though beautiful, when fmgly confidered, appear 
 exceedingly deficient, when we attempt to guefs at 
 the intention of the builder. Their exa£l refem- 
 blance tempts the beholder to conclude, that they 
 were meant as parts of fome frru6lure hereafter to 
 be raifed ; and yet every circumftance about them 
 fliews, that they can never, with the leaft propriety, 
 be made part of any regular or (lately edifice. 
 
 ' The houfe of the late lord Bingley, on the weft 
 fide of the fquare, is one of the moil fingular pieces 
 of architecSlure about town. In my opinion, it is 
 rather like a convent than the refidcnce of a man of 
 quality, and feems more a copy of fome of the 
 Poufiin's landfcape ornaments, than a dcfign to imi- 
 tate any of the genuine beauties of building. I may 
 be miftaken, perhaps, in my opinion, and what I 
 efteein Gotliic, heavy, and fantaftick, may really 
 I be 
 
LONDON. 173 
 
 be harmonious, light, and elegant : (o I leave the- 
 determination of it to better judges.' 
 
 All the fquares in London, at prefent, have their 
 areas inclofed by neat iron railing. We cannot, 
 therefore, mention this circumftance as a matter of 
 merit in Cavendifli-fquare, though a few years ago 
 it might have been noticed as fuch. A gilt ftatue 
 of William, late duke of Cumbejland, was ere£ted 
 here in 1770. Of this we cannot give a better ac- 
 count, than by quoting a fpirited little * pamphlet, 
 to which we have already had recourfe more than 
 once. ' The ftatue is the gift of private friendfhip, 
 and as the infcription takes care to iijform us, to 
 prevent miilakes, is an equeflrian flatue. An 
 officer, in the exa£t modern uniform of the guards^ 
 is mounted on an antique horfe, all very richly gilt 
 and burnifhed. The figure, both in features and 
 proportions, is extremely like the original ; and fo, 
 I am told, is the hat. The general encomium be- 
 ftowed upon it is, that it is mighty natural^ but, in 
 my opinion, the refemblance would be much ftronger, 
 were it, in place of being gilt, to be painted in 
 proper colours ; the coat fcarlet, the facings blue, 
 and the lace to remain as it is. This would not 
 only make it more natural^ but alfo render it of ufe 
 as a pattern fuit for the regimental taylors.' 
 
 Portland-place is by much the nobleft ftreet in 
 London, as far as it extends. We are forry the 
 
 * Ciitical Obfervations on the Buildings and Improvenients of 
 London. Printed for Dodfley, London, 1 771.. 
 
 I 3 two 
 
174 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 two principal center edifices, vvliich are oppofice 
 each other, are not perfedly alike; and the mean 
 brick wall, at the fouth end, is peculiarly ofFenfive. 
 
 The new uniiniflied fquare, at the north end of 
 Duke-ftreetj called Manchefter-fquarc, is too fmall 
 to promife any confiderable addition to the magni- 
 ficence of the capital. The buildings already creeled 
 have nothing but regularity to recommend them. 
 The houfe of the duke of Manchelter, as we are 
 informed, is a ftruclure in favour of v/hich very 
 little can be faid. It is too fmall and trifling for a 
 detached and infulated building, and feems befides 
 to be the compofitlon of whim and caprice. It is 
 ornamented, without producing any effect either at 
 a near or diilant view. The fituation is worthy of 
 great praife j but inftcad of terminating the vifta of 
 Duke-ftreet to the fatisfaction of the beholder, we 
 are difpleafed at the narrownefs of the flrcct, which 
 cuts off part of the building, and leaves a center 
 not worth looking at. Thcfe ill effects would have 
 been obviated by a more judicious compofition. If 
 a fmgle order of columns had fprung from, a bafe- 
 ment ftory, with an attic above, and the center 
 crowned with a pediment, wc fliould hzxe over- 
 looked the petitenefs of the palace, while we attended 
 to the effe(51: ; the center would have been of a proper 
 breadth for the flrect it fronts, and the boldnefs and 
 funpllcity of its parts would have been perceived and 
 admired, from the moft diltant point of view, as 
 
 well as tlie neareff. 
 
 Portman- 
 
LONDON. 175 
 
 Portman-fquare is a magnificent area, and is, by 
 eftimation, the largeft in town, except Lincoln's- 
 Inn- Fields. The fouth range of houfes forms a 
 pile which, by its extent, magnitude and fymmetrv, 
 produces a ftriking effe6l. The eaft and weft ranges 
 are regular, and perfeftly alike. We are inclined 
 to regret, that magnificence has not been joined to 
 convenience and fimplicity in the exterior of thefe 
 large edifices ; but when we look at the north fide 
 of this fquare, we would willingly quit all our plea- 
 fing ideas of grandeur, if we m.ight be indulged witlV 
 the view of order and arrangement. The well: end 
 of the north range of building was began upon a 
 plan exadlly correfpondent with the oppofite fouth 
 pile, but at the eaftern part we have the mortifica- 
 tion to obferve, that feveral houfes have been buHt, 
 which, however tolerable, or even elegant in them- 
 felves, are a difgrace to the fquare, and to the tafte 
 and judgment of the builders. What pity it is, that 
 the ground landlord did not conline his tenants to 
 build according to an uniform plan ! Or if fym- 
 metry, magnificence, and public order, be objeils 
 of no value, why does he not let out the area in the 
 center to every one who has money to build a houfe, 
 or a dog-kennel? The houfes which appear in the 
 north-weft angle have a bad effe^l: on the fquare, 
 however advantageous the view niay be to the inha-- 
 bitants. 
 
 At this extremity of the town, not far from Ox- ■ 
 ford-road, is the place of public execution, called 
 I 4 Tyburn, 
 
J 76 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 Tyburn, from a village of that name formerly 
 fituated here ; but now fwallowed up by the pro- 
 ^gious increafe of buildings. The gallows is 
 not fixed here, but is ereiled temporarily for 
 every particular day of execution, and afterwards 
 removed. 
 
 MORNING 
 
E O N D O N. 177 
 
 MORNING VI. 
 
 IN the prefent walk we propcfe to furvey the re-- 
 maining part of the town. This tafk we ftiall' 
 perform, by making a tour from the Haymarket along 
 Fall Mall, through the parks, and we fhall return 
 through the fquares which lie to the fouth of Oxford- 
 ftreet. 
 
 The length and breadth of the Ha}Tnarket, and* 
 the pleafing declivity of the ground, give it a degree 
 of - confequence, which the infignificance of its- 
 buildings cannot entirely deftroy. The Opesa- 
 houfe, built under the diredlion of Vanbrugh, pre- 
 fents an execrable front to the ftreet, and is abun- 
 dantly too large or lofty for declamation. It is now 
 made ufe of for the Itr.lian opera, and is fupported 
 partly by private fubfcription, and partly by the 
 immediate payments of occafional fpeclators. The 
 band of mufical performers here is very full, and 
 confifts of profeffors of the higheft reputation. 
 
 The fummer theatre, on the oppofite fide of the- 
 way, is exactly upon the plan of the theatres of 
 Drury-lane and Covent-garden, excepting that 
 they do not exhibit during the winter feafon. It is 
 Imaller than either of them, and was fupported with 
 I 5 . great 
 
lyS TOUR THRcucn 
 
 great eclat by the well-known author, and player, 
 Foote. At prefent, it is in the hands of Mr. Col- 
 jnan, an author who has met with fome encourage- 
 ment from the public. 
 
 ' St. Jatnes"s-i<iuare- has an appearance- of gran- 
 deur equal to any other plan in town, and yet there 
 are not many elegant houfes in it ; and the fide next 
 Pall Mali is fcandaloufly rude and irregular. It is 
 from the regularity of the buildings only, the neat- 
 nefs of the pavement, and the beauty of the bafon in 
 the middle, that this beauty refults. If the houfes 
 were built more in tafte, and the four fides exa£lly 
 correfpondent to each other, the effedl would be 
 much more furprizing, and the pleafure arifing from 
 it more juft. Befides, I can never thoroughly ap- 
 plaud the bafon itfelf, till it is finiflied as it ought, 
 with a ftatue or obeliflc in the middle, worthy of ■ 
 the phcc it was to appear in,, and the neighbaur- 
 hood it was to adorn. St. James's church is finely . 
 fituatcd with regard to the profpeft, on- the north- 
 fide of the fquare ; and if it had been built in fuit- 
 able taile, would have appeared raoft nobly to filL 
 the vifta, and add a pomp to the whole view: but 
 the builders of that pile did not trouble themfelves - 
 much about beauty; and, I believe, it is mere ac- 
 cident that even the fituation itfelf is fo favourable.' 
 
 Two very elegant houfes have been built on the 
 weft fide of this fquare. The fouthernmoft is very, 
 highly finifced and adorned, but the other has a. 
 
 noble 
 
 # 
 
L O N D O N. 179 
 
 noble air of fimplicity, and produces a happier 
 effc6L 
 
 * It is with no fmall concern I am obliged to own, - 
 that the palace of the Britifh kings is fo far from 
 having one fmgle beauty to recommend it, that it is 
 at once the contempt of foreign nations, and the 
 difgrace of our own. It will admit of no debate, • 
 that the court of a monarch ought to be the centre' 
 of all politenefs; and a grand and elegant outfide 
 would feem, at leaft, an indication of a like perfec- 
 tion within. We may fafely add, that this is ne- ■ 
 ceflary even in apolitical fenfej for ftrangers very 
 naturally take their impreflions of a whole people, 
 by what they fee at court j and the people themfelves 
 are, and ought to be, dazzled by the auguft appear- 
 ance of majefty, in every thing that has any relation 
 to it. I could wifh, therefore, that ways and means 
 could be invented to bring about this neceil'ary point, 
 that Britain might aflert her own tafte and dignity, 
 and vie in elegance as well as power with the moft 
 fihiflied of our neighbours.' 
 
 From hence we enter St. James's Park, a pleafing 
 enclofure of about 100 acres, which Vi^as originally 
 planted under the diredtion of Le Noire, but his pre- 
 fent majefty has made fome A'ery confider-able and 
 judicious alterations. We cannot think of pro- 
 ceeding to Hyde Park, till we hav€ firft walked round 
 this agreeable place, the circuit of which, by the' 
 Mall and the Birdcage-walk, is near a mile and an ' 
 hftlf. 
 
 I 6 - < About 
 
l80 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 * About half way along the Mall, Weftminfter- 
 abbey appears over the tops of the trees, in the moft 
 jsicturefque manner imaginable. The fine green 
 of the park itfelf, the canal, and another city rifing 
 beyond all, is a view of fuch a nature as few places 
 in the world can parallel. 
 
 * Buckingham-houfe, now the queen's palace, is 
 a building that attracts more eyes, and has more 
 admirers than almoft any other about town; not 
 that it is in fa£l the moft beautiful, but becaufe it 
 appears fo ; an advantage which it derives only from 
 its fitiiation, and the liberty it allows the fpetSlator of 
 feeing it in what point of view he pleafcs. The 
 parts which compofe this- pile are neither new nor 
 furprizing. The proportions are not abfolutely per- 
 fect, the windows being remarkably too large and 
 numerous, and the decorations feem poor and tri- 
 vial; the colonnade, which leads to the wings, is 
 fluck on to the houfe without any plea for its coir- 
 nexion J and the wings are both miferable in them- 
 felves, and no ways akin to the houfe they be- 
 long to. Upon the v/hole, it muft be confefled, 
 it has the appearance of tafte and defign, and if it 
 is not perfe6l, there are few houles that are more {o. 
 The late duke of Buckingham.'s judgment is cer- 
 tainly to be applauded much, for chufing his ground 
 fo well. It is owing to him, that the houfe has at 
 once the advantage of a triple vifta along the' Mall, 
 the air of Conflitution-hill^ thfc profpe6l of Chelfea- 
 fields, terminated with the hills of Surry, and a moft 
 
 delightfiJ 
 
LONDON. i8i 
 
 delightful view of the canal, with the landfcape on 
 either fide, and the Banquetting-houfe at White- 
 hall feen over the buildings on the parade, to finifti 
 and adorn the whole. ^ 
 
 ' The Birdcage-walk is exceedingly pleafant, the 
 fwell of the ground in the middle has an admirable 
 effedl on the vifta, and the view from thence down 
 to the canal is perfeilly fimple and agreeable. I 
 muft not omit here, that from this walk. Whitehall 
 and St. Paul's are feen over the Horfe-guards in a 
 very piclurefque manner. 
 
 * The Parade I have already touched upon, and 
 therefore have little more to add on that fubje6l. It 
 is certainly a grand and fpacious area, and if adorn- 
 ed with truly noble and auguft buildings, would not 
 be efteemed one of the moft inconfiderable beauties 
 about town. 
 
 ' I can by no means think it a wrong place to 
 ere£l an equeflrian ftatue to the memory of fome 
 departed hero. Such a decoration can be no where 
 raifed with more propriety, and no fituation what- 
 ever would become it better. It is true, the great 
 and immortal Naffau has been once denied this piece 
 of juftice, but they were not foldiers that Avere 
 guilty of fo great an indignity. We may prcfume, 
 therefore, that one time or other thofe gentlemen 
 will refolve to pay this compliment to a monarch 
 they muft all efteem, as his mighty genius and fu- 
 perior abilities deferved ; a compliment which, tho' 
 due to him, would do honour to themfelves, and 
 
 wipe 
 
iSa T O U R THROUGH 
 
 wipe away a ftain which Teems a mark of a national-^ 
 ingratitude.' 
 
 There formerly flood, on the Parade, a fine brafs 
 ftatue of a gladiator, caft from an antique or origi-- 
 nal by Agafias BeTitheus of Ephefus, which laiT is 
 now in the Borghefe palace at Rome. This ftatue,' 
 in the reign of queen Anne, was removed from the' 
 Parade to Hampton-court, where it remains at pre- 
 feiit in the center of one of the parterres in the gar- 
 den. 
 
 Having already taken notice of the buildings on' 
 the Parade, we (hall pafs forward through theMalL 
 The beauties of this fine walk are fuch as need not- 
 be pointed out to the fpeflator. The fmall lodge, 
 which nearly fronts the avenue leading to the Pa- 
 rade, belongs to Carlton-houfe, which ' is mofi: 
 delightfully fituated for a place of elegant and courtly 
 pleafurej but the .building itfelf is tame and poor. 
 Hardly any place is capable of greater improve- 
 ments, and hardly any place ftands in more need of ■ 
 them.' 
 
 * Marlborough-houfe is another inftance of great' 
 expence, but no tafte. It confifts only of a range ■ 
 of windows or two, a certain quantity of unmean-- 
 ing ftone, which was intended for decomtion, and 
 the weight of chimnies over all, enough to fink the- 
 roof to the foundation. It is certain, the ground af- 
 forded the architect all the opportunity imaginable 
 of exerting his utmoft art and genius, and if he had, 
 
 the 
 
L O N D O N. 183 
 
 the very place itfelf would have fecured him the 
 higheft applaufe.' 
 
 Conftitution-hill is a pleafing afcent to one of the 
 fineft eminences in nature. From hence the eye 
 may command a vaft extent of variegated country, 
 bounded with diftant hills. Immediately beneath 
 appears the beautiful lawn of the Green-park^ fkirt- 
 eJ on one fide with buildings, which, though irre-- 
 gular, are chearful and neatj and on another by the. 
 trees in St. James's-park, and enriched with a view 
 of the abbey at Weftminfter, This beautiful pic- - 
 ture is common to idl the houfes on that part of Pic- 
 cadilly which fronts the Green-park; and it is much- 
 tobewifhed, that they contributed their part to the; 
 eanbellifhment of the fcene: but the whole flreet is 
 a confufed mafs of houfes deftitute of general efre6^j, 
 and compofed of parts, fcarce any of which dekrve- 
 notice. Lord Bathurft's houfe is roomy and con— 
 venient within, which is all" the merit it can claim. 
 But the two adjoining houfes exhibit a promife of- 
 fomething, which feeras far from its final accom-- 
 plifhment. They are part of a ftrudlure, which- 
 was to confift of a central part with a pediment^ 
 and an adjacent houfe on each fide in a correfpond-- 
 ing ftyle. The whole compofition is. worthy of 
 great praife, and if finifhed, would be no fmall or- 
 nament to the place. Lord Egremont's houfe,. 
 though plain and unadorned, has an appearance 
 which is not unpleafing, to which the chearful opeifc 
 frilling tends much to contribute. But the duke of 
 
 Devonfliire's 
 
1S4 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 Devonfliire's is one of thofe which prefent a horrid 
 blank of wall, chearlefs and unfocial by day, and 
 terrible by night. It is ftrange that this tafte fhould 
 ever have obtained among our nobility, and efpeci- 
 ally in the prefent inftance. Would it be credible, 
 if the fa6l did not put it out of controverfy, that any 
 man of tafte, fafhion, and figure would prefer the 
 folitary grandeur of enclofmg himfelf in a, jail, to the 
 enjoyment of the firft view in Britain, which he 
 might poffefs by throwing down this execrable brick 
 fcreen. The public, however, have nothing to re- 
 crct in lofmc; the fight of Devonfliire-houfe. It is 
 fpacious, and fo are the Eaft India company's ware- 
 houfes ; and both are equally deferving praife. 
 
 How unfortunate it is, that everything remarkable 
 in this matchlefs fituation may be comprized in one 
 paragraph, and that half that paragraph fhould be 
 employed in cenfure ! 
 
 But to return to the Green-park. The lawn con- 
 fifts of the beautiful convexity of two gently rifing 
 hills. In the valley is a little grove, that looks as 
 offenfive as a fcab on the face of beauty-, but the- 
 new plantations on the fide of the green flagnant- 
 pool, portend that it will not foon be removed. 
 How infinitely preferable would be a well-planted 
 walk from the bafon to the weftern gate, which 
 would relieve the eye that looks in vain for pleafure 
 from the rude buildings on that fide, and would, 
 befides, afi'ord a promenade, which, in the parti- 
 cular 
 
LONDON. 185 
 
 cular of iandfcape, would excel even thoic of St. 
 James's-park. 
 
 Earl Spencer's houfe, on the eaftcrn fide of the 
 Park, is a fine piece of architedlure, well calculated 
 to be viewed with effeiSl from any diftance. The 
 Doric columns give it an appearance of great ma- 
 jefty and finnnefs ; perhaps too much of the latter, 
 as far as weight is implied. The ftatues on the 
 pediment add a grace to the ftructure, without in- 
 cumbering it. 
 
 The Ranger's houfe has been lately altered and 
 enlarged, but has acquired no beauty by that means. 
 The enormity of balcony, which environs it, looks 
 like the outriggers to an Indian canoe, to prevent it 
 from overfetting. 
 
 The fpe6bitor who walks along Piccadilly, and is 
 occafionally delighted with the landfcape feen through 
 the breaks in the park- wall, where iron railing is 
 fubftituted, will, at the fame time, be inclined to 
 regret, that the whole wall is not demoliftied, and 
 the railing made uniform throughout. 
 
 ' Sorry I am that the fhops and yards of the ftatu- 
 aries, in Piccadilly, afford a judicious foreigner fuch 
 flagrant opportunities to arraign and condemn our 
 tafte. Among a hundred ftatues, you ftiali hardly 
 fee one even tolerable, either in defign or execution : 
 nay, even the copies of the antique are fo mon- 
 ftroufly wretched, that one can hardly guefs at 
 their originals. • 
 
 « IwiU 
 
l86 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 * I will not lay the blame of this proftitution of Co 
 fijie an art entirely on its profeflbrs j no, I rather 
 attribute it to the ignorance and folly of the buyers, 
 who, being refolved to have firatues in their gar- 
 dens at all events, firft make a wrong choice, and 
 then refolve to purchafe their follies as cheap as 
 poflible. This puts the workman in a wrong taftc 
 of defigning, and hafty and rude in finifhing: hence 
 excellency is never thought of, and the mafter, like 
 the highwayman in the Beggar's Opera, is happy 
 when he has turned his lead into gold. 
 
 * I muft confefs, nothing is more amazing to me, 
 than the Ignorance of our gentry in the polite arts, 
 and in ftatuary particularly ; which is fo flagrant, 
 that, among the vaft numbers of ftatues which arc 
 to be ken in the gardens of this nation, it is almoil 
 a miracle if you find one good one. Neither are 
 we alone ignorant of the art itfelf, but even of the 
 ufe of it too ; for there are as few ftatues well fitu- 
 ated as chofen ; and too many have reafon to blufli 
 both for the figure itfelf, and the end it was defigned 
 to anfwer. 
 
 * Nothing can be more plain, than v/hat is 
 meant for decoration fliould be beautiful in itfelf; 
 and placed with propriety too. What excufe then 
 can be made for the wretched things which we fee 
 croAvded on the eye, that fhock, inftead of afford- 
 ing, entertainment. 
 
 * In the firft place, therefore, a ftatue fhould be 
 good in itfelf^ in the next, it fhould be erefted to 
 
 advan- 
 
LONDON. 187 
 
 advantage ; and, laflly, it fliould, in its own nature, 
 be fuited to the place. To compleat an area, end 
 a vifta, adorn a fountain, or decorate a banqueting- 
 houfe, or alcove, is the jiift and natural \i{e of 
 ftatues : not to people a garden, and make a nuifance 
 of what ought to be a beauty, 
 
 ' Neither is every good ftatue adopted to every 
 place : the equeftrian ftatue of a hero would furt 
 but ill with foothing falls of water, and all the foft- 
 nefs of Italian luxury ; neither would the river-gods 
 become the hurry and pomp of a nobleman's court- 
 yard. Common-fenfe, one would imagine, would 
 preferve us from abfurdities like thef^j and yet there 
 .ire fo many proofs to the contrarv, that we cannot 
 be too fevere in our cenfure, or take too much pains 
 to bring about a reformation.* 
 
 From the Green-park we crofs the road, and 
 enter Hyde-park. This is much more extenfive 
 than both the others we have juft left, and it is in a 
 much more defolate ftate. But the natural advan- 
 tages of the place are fuch, that it never fails to im- 
 prefs the imagination with a certain fenfe of vaftnefs 
 and fubliniity. The extent of the open plain has an 
 efFei5l fimilar to that which is experienced by a tra- 
 veller, when, by fome change of pofition, he is 
 fuddenly brought in fight of the fea. This plain is 
 not lefs remarkable for elevation than extent. It 
 commands a mofi: noble view, is pleafantly watered 
 by the Serpentine-river, and, in fhort, poflefles 
 every beauty and convenience which might be re- 
 quired 
 
l88 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 €iuired in the fituation of the royal palace of the 
 Britifn kings. It has often been pointed out as a 
 fpot adapted to every purpofe of magnificence and 
 beauty. 
 
 To the eaft of Hyde-park are Kenfington-gardens, 
 belonging to the royal palace at Kenfington. This 
 palace was the feat of the Lord Chancellor Finch, 
 afterwards earl of Nottingham, and was purchafed 
 by William III. fmce which time it has been con- 
 fiderably enlarged. It If, indeed, fuperior to St. 
 James's, but prodigioufly beneath any idea we might 
 form of a royal palace. Tiie gardens are fimple, 
 elegant, and beautiful. They confiit, for the moft 
 part, of noble grafs walks, leading to feveral cen- 
 ters, the intermediate fpaces being varioufly planted. 
 The bafon of water before the palace is furrounded 
 v/ith an amphitheatre of trees, which rife above each 
 other, and produce a delightful and ftriking effeft. 
 
 JBut as it is no part of our route to furvcy thefe 
 gardens, we fhall return into town by the gate at 
 the upper end of Brook-ftreet. 
 
 ' Grofvenor-fquare is not the laft addition which 
 has been made to the town, but the laft in fituation; 
 and as it is generally underflood to be the fineft of 
 all our fquares, I am forry I have the opportunity to 
 fay, it has fo few advantages to recommend it, and 
 that the public are difpofed to like thefe few fo well. 
 I have frequently obferved already, that magnificence 
 (hould never be attempted; it ought always to be 
 perfedt and compleat, or elfe the very eflay mocks 
 
 the 
 
L O N D O N. 1S9 
 
 the builder, and excites ridicule inftead of admira- 
 tion. This is the cafe of Grofvenor-fquare. It 
 was meant to be very fine, but has mifcarried very 
 unfortunately in the execution. There is no har- 
 mony or agreement in the parts which compofe it, 
 neither is there one of thofe parts which can make 
 us any thing amends for the irregularity of the whole. 
 The triple houfe of the north fide is a wretched at- 
 tempt at fomething extraordinary; but I hope not 
 many people, befides the purchafers, are deceived in 
 their opinions of its merits; for it is not only bad 
 in itfelf, but in its fituation too. Had it been in the 
 center of the line, there would have been fome ex- 
 cufe for the proje£l; but as it is almofl: in an ex- 
 treme, there can be no plea remaining, unlefs the 
 view of taking in fome young heir to buy it at a 
 great rate, may be allowed one. 
 
 * The eaft fide is the only regular one of the four, 
 and is, undoubtedly, much the moft elegant for that 
 reafon; but then, even this is not in tafte; and nei- 
 ther the houfe in the middle, nor the two which 
 ferve as wings, have any thing remarkable to re- 
 commend them, though the builder feems to defign 
 they fliould. The pediment over that in the mid- 
 dle, particularly, is proportioned only to the breadth 
 of that houfe, and not the entire line, whereby it 
 appears, that the artift forgot his fii-ft defign of mak- 
 ing this the main body to the whole. 
 
 ' The other two fides are little better than a col- 
 le£lion of whims and frolicks in building, without 
 
 any 
 
igO TOUR THROUGH 
 
 any thing like order or beauty, and therefore de- 
 fcrve no iarther confideration. 
 
 ' As to the area in the midft, it is certainly laid 
 out in a very expenfive tafte, and kept with great 
 decency and ncatncfs. The making it circular is 
 new in defign, and happy in effect. The ftatue in 
 the center makes a very good appearance in profpecl, 
 and is a fine decoration ; but in itfclf is no way ad- 
 mirable, or deferring applaufe. 
 
 * I have often wondered that, among the many fpa- 
 clous areas of buildings which adorn this city, an 
 o6langular one was never thought of. I am fully 
 perfuadcd, that it would make a nobler figure than 
 any we have yet feen, and is capable of greater beau- 
 ties. It IS to be obferA'ed though, that I would not 
 have it broke at the angles for the fake of the ftreets 
 or entrances, becaufe they would fpoil the theatrical 
 appearance of the whole : I would rather chufe to 
 have all thofe inlets under an arch, in the center of 
 each particular fide ; and if the fuperfl:ru'5l:ure was 
 elevated proportionably, in a grand and noble ftyle, 
 what was principally meant as a conveniency, would 
 prove one of the moft magnificent ornaments in the 
 world. 
 
 * I would not be underftood here as recommend- 
 ing any farther additions to this mighty metropolis; 
 no, I am of opinion, the head is much too big for 
 the body ; and, therefore, its farther growth cannot 
 be checked too foon: but this I leave to the deter- 
 
 fliination of wifer heads than mine.' 
 
 Berkeley- 
 
LONDON. 191 
 
 Berkeley-fquarc is pleafantly fituated on the fide of 
 a hili, and has a very chearlul afpccl. The equeflri- 
 an ftatue in the middle is a conllderable ornament to 
 the place, though poflcfTed of little merit. The 
 eaft and weft fides of this fquarc are well paved, and 
 the buildings, though without much order, are of a 
 reputable clafs. But the north fide is infamoufly the 
 reverfc. Small irregular edifices, among which are an 
 open fiflimonger's-ftall, and a lottery-office, con- 
 tribute their mutual deformities to difgrace this fine- 
 ly elevated fpot. Yet it is one ground for comfort, 
 that the value of thefe ftrucStures will be fo much the 
 lefs an obftacle, if any of our nobility fhould chufe 
 to purchafe the ground for building. The fouth 
 fide is entirely taken up by Shelburne-houfe, but this 
 auguft edifice, fo from adding grace to the fquare, 
 can only be feen from thence in profile, and prefejsts 
 to view, on that fide, an infignificant wall. The 
 true point of view for this palace is from Hay-hill, 
 whence the fight is intercepted only by a wall, which 
 we muft do that juftice to the builder's tafte to con- 
 fefs, is no higher than was abfolutely neceflary. The 
 houfe itfelf unites at once the gay, the elegant, and 
 the grand. 
 
 * We muft now pafs into Piccadilly, where we 
 (hall be entertained with a fight of the moft expcn- 
 five v/all in England ; I mean that before Burling- 
 ton-houfe. Nothing material can be objecSted to it, 
 and much may be faid in its praife. It is certain, 
 the height is wonderfully well proportioned to the 
 
 length, 
 
192 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 length, and the decorations are both fimple and mag- 
 nificent. The grand entrance is auguft and beau- 
 tiful, and by covering the houfe entirely from the 
 eye, gives pleafure and furprize at the opening of 
 the whole front, with the area before it, at once. If 
 any thing can be found fault with in this ftru(5lure, 
 it is, that the wall itfelf is not exa6l:ly on a line; 
 that the columns of the gate are merely ornamen- 
 tal, and fupport nothing at all; that the ruftick has 
 not all the propriety in the world for a palace j and 
 that the main body of the pile is hardly equal to the 
 outfide. But thefe may be rather imaginations of 
 mine, than real imperfe£lions; for which reafon I 
 fubmit them to the confideration of wifer heads.' 
 
 The fcreen before Lord Px^Ielburne's appears dimi- 
 nutive befide that of Burlington-houfe, but that is, 
 in reality, a merit, according to the proverb, which 
 prefers the Icaft of two evils. In fait, it is much 
 lefs calculated than the other to excite the ideas of 
 murder and robbery in the pafTengers, and is much 
 lefs produ£live of infult and danger to unprote6led 
 females, who may pafs that way after dark. The 
 pediment over the gate is heavy, and the houfe de- 
 ferves neither ccnfure nor praife. 
 
 St. James's-ftreet is much more remarkable for 
 the natural advantages and beauty of the ground, 
 than from any addition it has received from art. 
 The hoiifc at the corner of Park-place is well pro- 
 portioned, and has confiderable merit. The pa- 
 lace-gate, notwithttanding its advantageous pofition 
 
 at 
 
LONDON, 193 
 
 at the end of this flreet, has a very mean appear- 
 ance. 
 
 ' There is nothing in the whole prodigious length 
 of the two Bond-flreets, or in any of the adjacent 
 places, though almoft all created within our memo- 
 ries, that is any thing worth our attention : feveral 
 little wretched attempts there are at foppery- in 
 building, but they are even too inconfiderable for 
 cenfure. There is fomething particular in the 
 manner of George-ftreet^ which dcferves our atten- 
 tion ; it being laid out fo confiderably wider at the 
 upper end, towards Hanover-fquare, that it quite 
 reverfcs the perfpe£live, and fhews the end of the 
 vifla broader than the beginning ; which was cal- 
 culated to give a noble view of the fquare itfelf at 
 the entrance, and a better profpe£l down the ftreet 
 from the other fide. Both ways the effects anfwers 
 the intention, and we have only to lament, that the 
 buildings themfelves are not more worthy this pains 
 to {hew them to advantage. The weft fide of 
 Hanover-fquare is uniform, argues a very tolerable 
 tafte in the archite£l, and deferves a good deal of 
 approbation ; but all the reft are intolerable, and 
 deferve no attention at alL 
 
 ' The church of St. George's is, at leaft, one of 
 the moft elegant in London : the portico is ftately 
 and auguft, the fteeple handfome and well propor- 
 tioned, and the north and eaft profpeds very well 
 worth a fincere approbation ; but even this ftrudure 
 is no where to be feen but in profile, as mentioned 
 ^ above, 
 
194 TOUR THRouca 
 
 above, though fituated in the very center of the 
 villa that leads to Grofvenor-fquare ; and were it 
 not for two or three intervening houfes, would be 
 ken in the nobleft point of light in the world. In 
 fhort, it would fill the eye quite from the other fide 
 of that fquare in all its perfedlion ; and I leave any 
 one to judge to what fuperior advantage it would 
 then appear, and how many more beauties it would 
 add to the profpect. 
 
 ' The late general Wade's houfe, in Cork-ftrcet, 
 is a flru6lure which, though fmall, is one of the 
 beft things among the modern, or lately ereiSled, 
 buildings. The general defign, or plan, is pom- 
 pous and expenfivc ; indeed, the whole houfe is one 
 continued clufter of ornament ; and yet there is no- 
 body can fay there is too much, or that he defircs 
 to have any part removed out of the way. Let me 
 add, it is the only fabric in miniature I ever faw, 
 where decorations were perfedlly proportioned to the 
 fpace they were to fill, and did not, by their multi- 
 plicity, or fomc other miftake, incumber the whole. 
 
 * I can find no other fault with the late duke of 
 Queenfbury's-houfe, in Vigo-lane, but that it is 
 badly fituated over againil a dead- wall, and in a 
 lane that is unworthy of fo grand a building. To 
 which we may add, that it wants wings, and muft 
 ever do fo, bccaufe there is not room to make fo 
 neceflary and graceful an addition. 
 
 * This fabric is evidently in the ftyie of Inigo 
 Jones, and not at all unworthy the fchool of that 
 
 great 
 
LONDON. i<)S 
 
 great mafter. A beautiful imitation is of abun- 
 Uantly more value than a bad original ; and he that 
 could copy excellencies fo well, could not want z 
 great deal of his own.* 
 
 Golden-fquare contains nothing deferving of at- 
 tention. The buildings, like thofe of moft other 
 fquares in town, are fufRciently irregular ; and the 
 oiftagonal area, which is enclofed by neat iron 
 railing, is more neglected than is ufual in thefe 
 places of ornament. The ftatue in the center is 
 bad, particularly the arm which holds the trun- 
 cheon. And the coach pavement, near the railing, 
 exhibits very offenfive fymptoms oi neglect. 
 
 Leicefter-fquare, or, as it is commonly called, 
 Leicefter-fields, confifts of a pleafmg inclofed grafs- 
 plat on the fide of an hill, which is ornamented with 
 a noble equeftrian ftatue of George I, which for- 
 merly ftood in the garden of the duke of Chandos, 
 at Cannons. The avenues to this fquare are re- 
 markably bad, and the houfes which furround it arc 
 rather mean. Leicefter-houfe, now Sir Aftiton 
 Lever's Mufeum, is a low plain building, worthy 
 of little cftimation, but from the curiofities it con- 
 tains. But we beg Sir -Afliton Lever's pardon, if 
 we mifcall it by ufmg the name Mufeum. It was 
 originally fo called ; but the quackery of its pro- 
 prietor induced him to imagine, that the public 
 would be more delighted with the founding names 
 of Olophufium, or Holophufikon ; by both which, 
 if we mift-ake i;ot, it has been fucceflively called. 
 K ^ But 
 
196 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 But not to complain about little things, which, 
 though they give pain to the man of delicacy, may 
 have great influence with the gaping holiday vulgar; 
 it muft be allowed that Sir Afhton's colle£lion of 
 fpecimens of natural hiftory is, at leaft, equal to, if 
 it does not exceed, any other in the world. The 
 man of fcicnce, who enters this delightful repofitory, 
 may, perhaps, wifh the arrangement had been, in 
 feme refpeits, more clafUcal ; but the learned, and 
 t\.-e unlearned, muft concur in praifing the admi- 
 rable effedl which is produced, from the ftriking and 
 cxtenfiv^e view of the beauties of nature which are 
 here difplayed. The proprietor has judicioufly cur- 
 tailed fo much of the partitions, that we do not 
 pafs from room to room, but through an cxtenfive 
 and magnificent gallery. 
 
 There are fixteen apartments in which this col- 
 le£lion is depofited, befides the ftair-cafe, and the 
 out-houfe where the elephant and zebra ftand. 
 Twelve of thefe are above, and four below. Each 
 contains a variety of fubjedls, but is diftinguiflied 
 by fome appellation, expreflive either of the general 
 ufe it is applied to, or of fome particularly ftriking 
 ohje(St. The ufual mode^ of viewing them is as 
 follows : 
 
 (Above.) 
 
 1 Stair-cafe, 
 
 2 Native FoiTil Room, 
 2 Extraneous ditto, 
 
 4 Shell Room, 
 
 5 Argus 
 
LONDON. 197 
 
 5 Argus Pheafant Room, 
 
 6 Tnfeil, or Hippopotamus Room, 
 
 7 Antique Room, 
 
 8 Buftard Room, 
 
 9 Peacock Pheafant Room, 
 
 10 Px.eptile Roam, 
 
 1 1 Fifhing Coral Room, 
 
 12 Monkey Room, 
 
 13 Oflrich Room. 
 
 (Below.) 
 
 14 Wardrobe Room, 
 
 15 Otaheite Room, 
 
 16 Club Room, 
 
 17 Sandwich Iflands Room. 
 
 The following is a very curfory and general ac- 
 count of each of thefe, a particular one perhaps will 
 never be given. 
 
 I. Around the Stair-cafe are difperfed various wea- 
 pons of war, of different nations, chiefly Eaftern 
 and European, fkins of ferpents, horns, bones, 
 teeth, and heads of animals, fharks jaws, an ele- 
 phant's tufli, weight one hundred and thirteen 
 pounds, manati, crocodile, and fea-lionefs, &c. &c. 
 Among thefe are the following curious articles : 
 
 The foflil head and horns of an animal faid to be 
 a fpecies of the elk or moofe deer, that is now ex- 
 tin£l, dug from the bogs of Ireland, where they are 
 very common. The weight and fize of thefe, but 
 mere particularly of fome others that have been 
 found, is fo prodigious, that confidering the form 
 K 3 of 
 
198 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 of the animal that was t3 carry them, his height 
 muft have been exccfijve. Not lefs, as Pennant 
 allows, if we judge by analogy, than twelve feet. 
 
 The head and tufhes of a Norwal whale, from 
 Greenland. It is now fuppofed by naturaliftc, that 
 it was the head of this animal, which is ufually 
 found with only one tufli, and which is very long 
 and fpiral, that has given birth to the fabulous uni- 
 corn, or that has at leaft occafioned many modern 
 writers to credit the ancient fables concerning that 
 animal. The head here fpoken of, has both the 
 tuflies in great prefervation, and is the only one 
 known at prefent in any cabinet or mufeum. 
 
 The manati, a large, docile, amphibious animal, 
 that inhabits the rivers of Africa and South Ame- 
 rica. The following remarkable tale of one of this 
 fpecies, is taken from the laft edition of Pennant's 
 hiftory of quadrupedes. " I fliall conclude this ac- 
 count, with the following extraordinary hiftory of a 
 tame manati, preferved by a certain Prince of Hif- 
 paniola, at the time of the arrival of the Spaniards, 
 in a lake adjoining to his refidence. It was on ac- 
 count of the gentlenefs of its nature called in the 
 language of the country, mat\jm. It would appear 
 as foon as it was called by any of its familiars, for it 
 hated the Spaniards on account of an injury it had 
 received from one of thofe adventurers. The fable 
 of Arion was here realized. It would offer itfelf to 
 the Indian favourites, and carry over ten at a time, 
 fmging and playing on its back. It was particularly 
 
 cna- 
 
LONDON. 199 
 
 enamoured of one youth, which reminds me of the 
 claiTical parallel in the Dolphin of Hippo, fo beau- 
 tifully related by the younger Pliny. The fates of 
 the two animals were very different ; Matum efcaped 
 to his native waters, by means of a violent flood ; 
 the Hipponenfian fifh fell a facrifice to the poverty of 
 the retired colonifts." This ftory was originally 
 extracted from Peter Martyr's decades of the Indies. 
 
 The curious workmanfhip of the fwords, fhields, 
 tec. difpcrfed around, fill the mind with ideas of the 
 great ingenuity and induftry of man. 
 
 2. The firft room you enter is the native FofHl 
 Room, conTifting of foffils below and birds above, all 
 in glafs cafes, as are almoft all the fubjeils of every 
 clafs, and in every room, which muft have been a 
 very heavy article of expence to the proprietor. The 
 foflils are fpars, ores, flones, pebbles, chryftal mun- 
 dic, &c. in moft of which England abounds, and 
 which occafions the learned foreigners who vifit our 
 mufeums to behold them with rapture and afto- 
 nifhmcnt. 
 
 As this room is the beginning of the birds, which 
 are difperfed through almoft every room above flairs, 
 it is neceffary here to obferve, that they are ib nu- 
 merous, are in fuch fine prefervation, and by their 
 infinitely variegated and beautiful plumage, produce 
 fuch a chaj-ming effe6l, that nothing but a6tual in- 
 fpedion can give any adequate idea of the pleafure 
 and iiirprize the mind receives at the view. The 
 occafioiial mention of a few as we proceed, muft not 
 K 4 therefore 
 
200 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 therefore make the reader fuppofe, thatthofc are the 
 only ones worthy notice. The obfcrvcr hardly 
 knows where to red, or which to (deS:. The 
 exa6l number is rot known, but it is fuppofed there 
 £re five thoiifand birds, from all countries, and cbove\ 
 fixteen hundred- different fpecies. 
 
 Among many others, there are in this room the 
 rhinoceros bird, fo called from the large and hor- 
 nified configuration of its beak, and pied pea-hen, 
 which, at eleven years old, put forth the plumage 
 of a cock. 
 
 3. 1'he next is the extraneous FofTil Room, con- 
 taining, as the former, birds and extraneous foflils. 
 Among the birds are the African flamingo, hum- 
 ming bird, king bird of paradife, pelican. Sic. &c. 
 &c. The pelican is a water fowl, preys on fifh, 
 and is remarkable for a bag or bladder under his 
 throat, in which, after driving the fmall fry in fhoals 
 before it, into fome hole convenient for feizing 
 them, it dcpofits a number of them, which it de- 
 vours at leifure, or carries to its young, which it 
 feeds, by bending its neck, preffing the bag againft 
 its breafi-, and forcing the filh out. This gave rife 
 to the ancient fable of the pelican's pecking its 
 breafl-, and feeding its young with its own entrails. 
 
 The extraneous foffils are faid to be one of the 
 firft coUcdtions in the world, and confill of woods, 
 plants, bones, bivalve-fhells, horns, entrochi, echini 
 in chalk and flint, belemnites, pediculi, teeth and 
 piUatCi. of hfti, nauticul), ^c. Sic, kc. all which arc 
 ' none 
 
LONDON. 201 
 
 none of them mineral produdions, but by fome 
 great revolution in the fyftem of the earth havebeer^ 
 buried in it, and laid there for ages. 
 
 4. The Shell Room contains birds, and a moft 
 beautiful coUedion and arrangement of cawries, fea 
 eggs, clamps, muilels, limpets, cockles, harps, 
 mufics, fpikes, mitres, fnails, fpirals, dippers, olives, 
 liveries, figs, turnips, barnacles, funs, conchs, tuns, 
 trumpets, helmets, and numerous other fhells. 
 Likcwife, the bird of paradife, filver pheafant from 
 China, cormorant. Sic. &c. kc. and a brood of 
 partridges, confifting of the cock, the hen, feventeen 
 chickens, and two eggs, in the utmoft perfection of 
 prefervation. 
 
 5. The Argus Pheafant Room contains birds, 
 beafts, and feveral cafes of Italian, German, and 
 Brillol marble, granite, &c; and fome beautifisUy 
 manufactured fluors of Derbyfhire. 
 
 Among numerous other birds, are the peacock, 
 pea-hen, Jamaica flamingo, vulture from Gibraltar, 
 large cockatoo, non-defcript hawk, fwan, male 
 and fem.ale eagle, white pea-fowl, Guinea fov/l, 
 demoifellc of Numidia, zebra bird, curafTo, &c. ^c. 
 Sec. with a bird ncv.'ly inferted, called the argus 
 pheafant, from Pekin in China, very remarkable 
 fur the beauty of its plumage, and the elegance and 
 majefty of its form. 
 
 The beafts confifts of — the large Greenland bear, 
 royal tiger, leopard, Perfian cat, Perfian lynx, Mex- 
 ican hog, beaver, otter, badger, martin, fulimart, 
 K 5 opoflum, 
 
102 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 opofTum, kc. kc. &c. and the ichneumon, a fpecies 
 of weefel, formerly worfhipped by the Egyptians, 
 on account of its ufe and friendly difpofition to man. 
 It is the mortal enemy of that moft fatal of ferpents, 
 the naja, which it attacks without dread, and fhould 
 it receive a wound in the combat, is faid to retire 
 inftantly to eat a certain herb, which is an antidote 
 to poifon ; after which it returns to the attack, and 
 feldom fails of victory. Rumphius obfcrves with 
 what fkill it fcizes a ferpent by the throat, fo as to 
 avoid receiving any injury; and Lucan beautifully 
 defcribes the addrefs of this animal, in conquering 
 the Egyptian afp, thus tranfiated by Rowe. 
 
 " Thus oft th' ichneumon on the banks of Nile, 
 Invades the deadly afpic by a wile ^ 
 While artfully his (lender tail is play'd. 
 The ferpent darts upon the dancing {hade ; 
 Then turning on the foe with Avift furprife, 
 Full on the throat the nimble feizer flies. 
 The gafping fnake expires beneath the wound, _ 
 His gufhing jaws with poifonous floods abound, ^ 
 And ftied the fruitlefe mifchief on the ground. 
 
 This animal is domefticated both in India and 
 Egypt; it becomes very tame, aiid is more ufeful 
 than a cat in deftroying rats and mice ; it likewife 
 digs the eggs of crocodiles from the fands, and dc- 
 ftroys them. Vide Pennant's Hiftory of Qviadru- 
 pedcs. 
 
 The 
 
LONDON. 203 
 
 The four rooms dcfcribcJ above are in front, and 
 though not more curious than the fucceeding, have 
 the fineft effedl on the eye. 
 
 6. You then turn on die right, and enter the 
 Infect or Hippopotamus Room, where you find — a 
 young hippopotamus, and a young African rhino- 
 ceros, two animals remarkable, when full grov/n, 
 for bulk and ftrength, as well as form j old Hedior 
 from the Tower ; {hamoifc, a kind of goat, from 
 the hide of which is made fliamoifc, or fnammy 
 leathern—Armadillo, flying fquirrel from the Eaft- 
 Indies, porcupine, tail-lefs maucau, petril-nofed-bat, 
 the great ant-eater from South America, an animal 
 almoft as large, and fomething like the brown bcar^ 
 that lives entirely on ants, which it catches by the 
 aififtance of a Hiarp oblong nofc, and an exceed- 
 ingly long glutinous tongue. The fpecimen here 
 preferved is very valuable, on account of its fize and 
 fcarcity, with many others. 
 
 The infeiSl clafs contains fome beautiful cafes of 
 butterflies, moths, fcorpions, beetles, grafehoppers^ 
 tarantula, fpiders, loculls, Sec. &cc. 
 
 7. In the Antique Room are various fpecimens 
 of Roman, Perfian, German, Old Englifli, &c. an- 
 tiques in iron, brafs, and pottery j together with a 
 bofs buffalo, an Angora goat, and a few other beafts;, 
 and a remarkably fine Roman font, or bafin of 
 earthern ware, on which is paiiited a rcprefcntatioa 
 of a fea engagement, and various emblematicaL 
 figures confonant to the fubjeil* 
 
 K 6 8. The 
 
2C4 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 8. The BuftarJ Room is diftinguifhable for a 
 large cock buftard from Norfolk, that weighed 
 twenty-nine pounds. The throat of the builard 
 contains a kind of bag (here extra6ted andpreferved) 
 'vvhich naturalifts do not feem to have determined 
 the ufe of, though the bird is a native. There is 
 alfo the penguin, from Falkland's ifland, which re- 
 fembles a fifh, almoft as much as a bird, the velvet 
 Shouldered peacock from. Japan, American man of 
 war birds, cufliew bird, crown bird from Africa, 
 golden bird of paradifc, yellow and fcarlct breafted 
 touchan from South America, fpoon bill, various 
 eagles, falcon?, hawks, owls, &c. kc. kc. 
 
 9. The Peacock Pheafant Room is a continuation 
 of birds, and contains the peacock pheafant from 
 China, a bird of beautiful plumage ; the caflbwary 
 from Java, remarkable for being large and ugly, 
 with excefiively ftrong legs and feet, wings fhort, 
 quills of the porcupine kind, and feathers that look 
 like the hair of bears. Likewifc, the albatrofs, from 
 the Cape of Good Hope, confpicuous too for its 
 fize; which, when it fpreads its wings, muft look 
 prodigious, they being thirteen feet from tip to tip. 
 And the crowned African crane, the Cyrus crane, 
 from Bengal, the golden pheafant, the ring pheafant, 
 and the mandarine duck, all from China, and all 
 remarkable for beauty of fhapc and plumage, the 
 American fcarlet curlew, the golden eagle, eagle 
 owl, great crowned Indian pigeon, &c. &c. &c. 
 
 I 
 
 JO. The 
 
LONDON. 205 
 
 10. The Reptile Room contains, among many 
 other fine fpecimens, the rattle-fnakc, polypus, buil 
 frog, torpedo, camelion, guana, lizards, ferpents, 
 fnakes, &c. Sec. &c. 
 
 11. In the Fifh and Coral Room are the wolf- 
 fifh, frog-fifh, monk-fifli, needle-fifh, porcupine- 
 fiih, toad-fifli, file and variegated file-fifli, faw-fifb, 
 dolphin, electrical eel, fpider crab, grampus, fcarlet 
 gurnard, remora, Sec. &zc. &c. with great variety of 
 corals. 
 
 12. The Monkey Room is filled with a fine col- 
 lection of the various fpecies of that animal, among 
 which are a young male and female orangoutansc:, 
 confpicuous for their difgufting and diftorted refem- 
 blance to the human form ; the large African baboon, 
 the long armed monkey, the dog faced monkev, 
 the filky or lion monkey, from Brafil, &c. &e» 
 &c. 
 
 13. The fubjeds in the Oftrich Room are mif- 
 celiancous. They confift of mufical inftruments, 
 tobacco pipes, &c. from China and the Eaft-Indics ; 
 fpecimens of fhells, woods, and birds eggs ; manu- 
 fcripts written by perfons born without hands or 
 feet ; the male and female oftrich egg and young ; 
 fome few cafes of birds ; and the painting of a moft 
 remarkable horfe, with a manufcript account of him, 
 extratled from a book written by George Simon 
 Winter, and printed at Nuremburg, 1687, of which 
 the following is a tranfcript. 
 
 « This 
 
206 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 " This hoile was a fine {'now white ftallion, out 
 of the ftud of the old Count of Oldenburg. The 
 Count gave him to the lyandgrave of Heiic Callel. 
 He was kept in the ftables of the landgrave twenty 
 years, where he died. He was a hod'e of a fine 
 form and movement, his mane was in fcvcral parts- 
 three, four, and four and a half ells long, but the 
 hair of his tail was fcven, eight, and even nine cUs 
 long. (An ell is near two Englifli feet.) I have 
 fcvcral fuch hairs now in my pofi'eflion, v;hich, by 
 the order of the upper mafter of the horfe, were 
 brought me by the groom, George Bcnden, who 
 had for a long time the care of this horfe. The 
 above-mentioned upper mafter of the horfe, when he 
 was a page at court, often rode him in the riding 
 fchool, as he told me himfelf. The mane and tail 
 were kept very clean in the flable, and enclofed in a 
 leathern bag, and he was thus brought into the 
 riding fchool. But when the landgrave rode him, 
 the mane and tail were in a red velvet bag ; but if 
 the bags were not ufed, then the fervant carried the 
 mane in his hand, and two other fervants fupportcd 
 the tail." 
 
 The oftrich in this room ftands near fevcn feet 
 high, and when alive could have extended himfelf to 
 almoil nine. There are a pair of humming birds 
 put in the fame cafe, by way of contraft, the 
 one being the lealV, and the other the biggeft of 
 birds. 
 
 J4. From 
 
LONDON. 207 
 
 14. From hence the fpcclators return and Jcfcend 
 ijito the Rooms below, the lirft of which is the 
 wardrobe, where are depofited drefl'es of various na- 
 tions, men's and women's ; h\dies flioes from Ciiina, 
 flippers, Perfian, Turkifli, Sec. &cc. and Ohver 
 Cromwell's armour and part of his drefs, which 
 denote him to have been both a very large and 
 flrong man. 
 
 15. The next is the Otaheite Room, where are 
 numerous dreflbs, ornaments, idols, domeftic uten- 
 fds, Sec. of the people in the newly-difcovered 
 iflands, which, to an active imagination, convey a 
 forcible idea of them and their manners. 
 
 l6- In the Club Room are the warlike weapons 
 of the feveral favage nations of America. The 
 clubs are many of them curioufly carved, and fome 
 require prodigious ftrength to be able to wield with 
 agility. 
 
 17. The Sandwich Iflands Room is a continu- 
 ation of the fubjecls in the Otaheite Room, being 
 full of curious Indian drcfles, idols, ornaments, 
 hows, &c. Sec. &c. which exprefs very flrongly the 
 character of the people. 
 
 Befides thefe, there are in an out-houfe, a full 
 grown elephant and the zebra, which, when alive, 
 belonged to her-Majcflv. 
 
 Thofe who have feen the Holophuficon, muft 
 have very dull faculties indeed, if they do not retain 
 a lively impreflion of the pleafure they received. 
 
 8 The 
 
208 TOUR THROUGH 
 
 The endlefs varitty difplayed in the beautiful 
 plumage of the bird", and the fparkling colours re- 
 flected from th? (hells, ipars, ores, &c. &c. their 
 feveral properties, manners, ai.d diipofitions ; the 
 ferocious flare of animals terrible to man, but here 
 deprived of the power of harm, and fubmitted to the 
 eager infpedtion of curiofily ; the n-.alevolent afpeft 
 of the reptile race, that makes the beholder, on 
 feeing himfelf furrounded by them, happy to recoi- 
 led they are dead ; thefe all conipire to imprefs the 
 mind with a convi'flion of the reality of things, 
 which he had till then almoft held vifionary. They 
 fill him with a majeflic awe for the power of bones 
 and claws, and a ftill greater reverence for his own 
 wit, that has taught him to fubdue them. He 
 looks at lions, leopards, bears, tigers, and that 
 moil: enormous of all reptiles, the crocodile • ?.nd 
 meditates on the horrid depredations committed by 
 them, and their anccflors. As he proceeds, the 
 objeils before him make his adtive f;;ncy travel from 
 pole to pole through torrid and through frigid 
 zones. He beholds the manners of men in the 
 forms of their habits ; he fees the Indian rejoiced 
 at, and dancing to the monotonous found of his 
 torn, torn ; he fighs to recGlk-6t the prevalent 
 power of fear and fuperftition over the human 
 mind, when he views the rude deformity of an idol 
 carved with a flint, by a hand incapable of imi- 
 tating the outline of naturej and that works only 
 
 that 
 
LONDON. 209 
 
 that it may worfliip. la fliort, he looks at the vail 
 volumes of actual informations, that every where 
 furroiind him, and is undetermined where to begin, 
 or on which to fix his attention molK Such at 
 leaft were the fenfations experienced by the writer 
 of the prefent account, and fuch he thought it his 
 duty to convey, as far as his plan and abilities per- 
 mit, to his rer.ders. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 ALDGATE, 27. 
 Artillery Ground andHoufe, 31. 
 Adelphi, 79. 
 Admiralty, 84. 
 Afylum, 151. 
 Andrew's, St. Holborn, 153. 
 
 B 
 
 Borough of Southwark, 19. 
 
 Blackman Street, 21. 
 
 Elackfriar's Bridge, 23, 80. 
 
 Biihopfgate Street, Church in, 28* 
 
 Bedlam, 30. 
 
 Bank of England, 33. 
 
 Beckford's Statue in Guildhall, 39. 
 
 Bow Church, ibid. 
 
 Bride's, St. Church, 67. 
 
 Bedford Row, 155. 
 
 Bedford Houfe, 160. 
 
 Briiifh Mufeum, 162—167. 
 
 Bingley Houfe, 172. 
 
 Birdcage Walk, 181. 
 
 Burlington Houfe, 191. 
 
 Bond Street, 193. 
 
 C 
 
 Cuflom Houfe, 1 1 . 
 
 Chrill: Church, St. George's Fields, 23. ^ 
 
 Cathedral of St. Paul's, 41 — 57. 
 
 Charter Houfe and Square, 62. 
 
 County Hall on Clerkenwell Green, 63. 
 
 Collei^c 
 
INDEX. 
 
 College of Phyficians, 64. 
 
 Clement'?, Sr. Church, 73. 
 
 Covent Garden Theatre, 'jH. 
 
 Covent Garden, 77. 
 
 Covent Garden Church, or St. Paul's, 7s.' 
 
 Charing Cror;., F2. Statue at, 8;. 
 
 Conftitution Hill, 183. 
 
 D 
 
 iDunftan's, St. Church in the Eafl, its remarkable 
 
 Steeple, ii. In Fleet Street, 67. 
 Dodtors Common;, 58. 
 'Drwry Lane Theatre, ']6. 
 
 E 
 
 Eaft India Houfe, 28. 
 Excife Office, 29. 
 
 Equeflvian Statue of Charles II. Ridiculous One for- 
 mn-Jy in Stocks Maiket, 35. 
 
 F 
 
 Fofter Lane Steeple, 40. 
 Fleet Market, 65. 
 Furnival's Inn, 154, 
 
 G 
 
 Guy's Hofpltal, 20. 
 
 Grelham College, 29. 
 
 Guildhall, 38. Gigantic Figures, ibid, 
 
 Gra) 's Inn, 154. 
 
 George's, St. Church, Bloomfbury, 161. 
 
 Giles's, St, Church, 167. 
 
 Golden Square, 195. 
 
 H 
 
 Hanover Square, 193. 
 
 Hofpita], Guy's, 20. St. Thomas's, ibid. Magdalen, 
 23. Bedlam, 30. St. Luke's, 31. Chrilt's, 60. 
 St. Bartholomew's, 6i. Bridewell, 65. Found- 
 ling, 155. 
 
 Hyde Park, 187. 
 
 Herald's OlHcc, 57. 
 
 Horfe 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Ilorfe Guards, 85. 
 
 Henry Vllth's Ch.ipel, 91, 134. 
 
 Hnlborn, 1 5 3. 
 
 H.itton Street, 154. 
 
 Ha) market, 177. 
 
 I 
 
 Ironmongers Ha^l, 27. 
 
 John, Si. Weilajuili'.-r, 90. 
 
 Inlluetjce of H -.I'jjiuis on the Manners and Condufl of 
 
 a People, 156. 
 St. James's Street, 192. 
 
 K 
 
 King's; Bench Prifon, 21. 
 Xeniington Gardens, 188. 
 
 London, its happy Situation and Advantages, 1 — 3. 
 
 Tower of, 4 — 10. 
 Lever's Maieum, 195. 
 
 London Bridge, 12 — 18. Water Works, i3. 
 Lincoln's Inn, 6g. Chapel, ibid. 
 
 M 
 
 Monument, the, 11. 
 
 Magnus, St. Church of, 12. 
 
 Margaret's, St. Hill, 20. 
 
 Marfhalfea, 21. 
 
 Magdalen Hofpital, 23. 
 
 Michaels, St. Cornhill, 32. 
 
 Manfion Houfe, 36, 37. 
 
 Mary's, St. Church, iii the Strand, 73, 
 
 Mcufe, the, 81. 
 
 M.irtin's, St. Church, ibid. 
 
 Montague H nife, 162. 
 
 Mall, the, 182. 
 
 Marlborough Houfe, ibid. 
 
 N. 
 Navy Office, 26. 
 Newgate Prifon, 64. 
 Northumberland Houfe, 82. 
 
 Obdiilc, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 O. 
 
 Obeliflc in St. George's Fields, 22. 
 Or mond Street, 159. 
 Oxford Street, 16S. 
 Opera Houfe, 177. 
 
 P. 
 
 Paul's, St. Cathedral, 41 — 57. 
 
 Pantheon, 171. 
 
 Portland Place, 173. 
 
 Park, St. James's, 179. Green, 183. Hyde, 187, 
 
 Palace, St. James's, 179. Queen's, 180. 
 
 Parade, 1 8 1 . 
 
 Queen's Street, 72. 
 Queen's Square, 159. 
 Queen's Palace, 180. 
 Queenlbury Ploufe, 194. 
 
 R. 
 
 Royal Exchange, 32. 
 
 Southwark, Borough of, 19. 
 
 South Sea Houfe, 28. 
 
 Stephen's Walbrook, St. Church of, 37. 
 
 School, St. Paul's, 59. Chrift's, 60. Charter Houfe, 
 
 62. 
 Summer Theatre in the Haymarket, \-]-j. 
 Six Clerks Office, 70. 
 Smithlield, 61. 
 SeiTions Houfe, 65. 
 Surgeons Hall, or Theatre, 65. 
 Shelburne Houfe, 191. 
 Square, Chartcrhoufe, 62. Lincoln's Inn, 70. 
 
 Queen's, 159. Red Lion, ibid. Bloomfbury, 160. 
 
 Bedford, 167. Soho, 169. Cavendilh, 172. Man- 
 
 chelter, 174. Portnian, 175. St. James's, 178. 
 
 Grofvenor, 188. Berkley, 191. Golden, 195. 
 
 Leicefter, ibid. 
 
 Staple's 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Staple's Inn, 154. 
 Strand, the, 72. 
 Somerfet Houfe, 74 — 76. 
 Statue of James II. 85. 
 Southampton Row, 160. 
 Spencer's, Earl, Houfe, i8j. 
 Statues, Thoughts on, 185 — 187. 
 
 Tower of London, 4—10. 
 
 Theatre, new, in St. George's Fields, zz. 
 
 Temple Bar, 67. Gate, 68. 
 
 Treafury, 86. 
 Tyburn, 175. 
 
 V 
 
 Vi<flual!ing Office, 26. 
 
 Viner, Sir Robert, erefled a ridiculous Statue of 
 Charles il. in Stocks Market, 36. 
 
 W 
 
 Water-works at London Bridge, 18,^ 
 
 Weftminiler Bridge, 80, 146. " 
 
 Whitehall, 84. 
 
 Weftminiler, 86. 
 
 Weftminfter H.hII, 89. 
 
 Weftminfter Abbey, 93. 
 
 Wedgwood's elegant Exhibition of Pottery, 169, 
 
 Wade, late General's, Houfe, 194, 
 
 y. 
 
 York Stairs, 80. 
 
 The end. 
 
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