¥ \ ■minr I A NEW PICTURE OF PARIS; OR THE TO THE FRENCH METROPOLIS; ACCURATELY DESCRIBING THE PUBLIC ESTABLISHMENTS, REMARKABLE EDIFICES, PLACES OF AMUSEMENT, And every other Object worthy of Attention. ALSO, A DESCRIPTION OF THE ENVIRONS OF PARIS, With correct Maps, an accurate Plan of the City, and Numerous Views of the Public Edifices, S^c. TWELFTH EDITION. BY EDWARD PLANTA. LONDON: PRINTED FOR SAMUEL LEIGH, 18 , STRAND. M.DCCC.XX. '' Price 8s, hound; with the Costume, 11s. L Angel-couft, Skiunei. street. I;. PREFACE. Every successive edition of this work has un- dergone many improvements. The Itinerary of the principal routes to Paris will be found ex- ceedingly interesting to the traveller. The ac- count of the regulations at the custom-houses and fortified towns, the character of the different hotels, the accommodations which the traveller may expect, and the usual manner of living in France, wdll prepare him for his journey, and prevent much delay, inconvenience, and disap- pointment. The narrative that is given of the different modes of travelling, the additional information communicated respecting the rate of posting, and the insertion of the latest ordonnance of the king will be useful to tourists. It has been the author’s earnest endeavour to give the present work a distinguished rank above the inaccurate and ill-written publications, which, under similar titles, are often obtruded on the Public. He has aimed to render the Kevr a2 IV PREFACE. Picture of Paris” acceptable to readers of taste and literature, whose praise is alone valuable, and whose patronage is the best proof of merit. The criticisms on the present state of the French museums, and on the general character of the French stage, have been written with much attention. Every public building, every museum, and every institution, has been carefully examined ; and, availing himself of the civility and friend- ship of several distinguished literary characters, many new and important sources of information have been opened to the author. He now con- fidently presumes, that Paris does not possess a single object of interest which is not noticed in this publication, and a general and comprehen- sive account given of it; and, while he offers another edition of it to the Public, he trusts that he shall not be deemed presumptuous in hoping that it will at least be found to contain an accu- rate delineation of Paris, and its inhabitants as they now are. The environs of Paris contain many interest- ing objects, which will repay the stranger for every excursion which he may be disposed to PREi'ACf;. V take. Much labour has been bestowed in de- scribing every place worthy of notice. The map of the Environs, together with the map of the Routes to Paris, the plan of 'the city, and the very accurate views of public edifices, will be found exceedingly correct. The work is now as complete as the best sources of information can possibly furnish ma- terials for that purpose. As it would be impos- sible to give any satisfactory account of the very extensive collection of pictures in the Louvre, the Catalogue is published in a separate volume. For the accommodation of numerous travellers, who have inquired for the post roads of Europe, as published by order of Buonaparte, the work has been reprinted, and may be had of the Publisher, No. 18, Strand, to whom any commu- nication for this work will be thankfully re- ceived. As a general travelling companion through France and Belgium, Reichard’s Itinerary may be safely recommended as the most useful work extant; or Boyce’s Belgian Traveller, for those who wish to travel in the United Netherlands only. CONTENTS, Page DIRECTIONS to the Traveller 1 Coins, SiC 2 Table of Francs 4 Baggage 8 Passports ibid. Plan of Messrs. Herries and Co’s. Exchange Notes 10 Morland and Co’s. Exchange Notes 14 Routes 16 Coaches ibid. Packets 20 Route from London to Dover 23 Directions on arriving at Dover 24 Description of Dover 26 Arrival at Calais 27 Calais Inns 23 Mode of living at Inns 29 Description of Calais 3l Travelling in France 33 Table of the Price of Posting 36 Laws relative to Posting 37 Cabriolet 38 Diligence 39 Route from Calais to Paris by Abbeville and Beau- vais 41 Abbeville, Amiens, and Chantilly 53 London to Paris, by Brighton and Dieppe 65 Description of Dieppe 68 Route from Dieppe to Paris, by Pontoise and Fran- conville 69 by St. Germain-en- Laye and Rouen 70 — London to Paris, by Margate and Ostend 78 London to Paris, by Dover and Ostend 84 .ii.. I I. , .. Rye and Boulogne ibid. CONTENTS. VU Page Route from London to Paris, by Portsmouth and Havre 85 through Helvoetsluys, Antwerp, and Brussels 87 Duty on Carriages, Horses, «Szc 96 ARRIVAL AT PARIS. Hotels 98 Coffee-Houses 106 Eating-Houses Ill I Necessary Forms on a Stranger’s Arrival 115 History and present State of Paris 117 Character and Manners of the Parisians 130 STRANGER’S METHODICAL GUIDE to the Curiosities of Paris 141 PALACES. The Thuilleries 150 The Royal Palace 157 The Luxembourg 163 The Palace of Justice 166 Palace of Bourbon 169 The Louvre, or King’s Museum 171 The Archbishop’s Palace 174 Palace of the Legion of Honour ibid. Palace of the Fine Arts 175 Palais d’Elys^e Bourbon 176 Palace of the Temple 177 Hotel of the King’s Body Guard ibid. Palace of the Warm Baths 178 La Tour de St. Jean de Latran ibid. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Wardrobe 179 The Royal Observatory ibid. The Town-Hall 180 The Exchange 181 Post-Office 182 Viii CONTENTS. Page The Mint i85 The Bank 134 Mont de Piet6. 185 The Arsenal ibid. The Royal Printing-Office 186 Barracks 187 PRIVATE BUILDINGS. Hotel Thelusson 189 de Carnavalet ibid. Lambert ibid. Davaux igo Maison Batave ibid. Maison St. Germain ibid. The Three United Houses igi Maison St. Foix ibid. Hotel Beaumarchais ibid. Maison Lathuile ibid. Hotel de Brunoy 19g de la Mademoiselle Guimard ibid, de Matignon ibid. Runski 193 de Croy ibid. Maison Dorlian ibid. Callet ibidi Hotel de Longueville. ibid. • ■ de Mirabeau ibid. Cluny 194 de Sens, ibid. Maison da Chanoine Fulbert ibid. ANTIQUITIES 195 RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. Notre Dame, the Cathedral of our Lady 197 Abbey RoJ'al of St. Germain in the Fields 201 St. Severin 20^ Chapelle Beaujon ibid. St. Louis ibid. CONTENTS. ix Page i St. Leu 203 I St. Germain L'Auxerrois ihid. j St. Etienne du Mont 204 I St. Louis en I’Isle 205 j St. Louis — St. Paul 206 St. Merry 207 La Sainte Chapelle ibid. I St. Gervais 208 i Eglise de la Madelaine ibid. St. Eustache 209 Abbaye du Val de Grace ibid. F Ste Marguerite 210 I St. Laurent 211 ! St. Nicolas des Champs ibid. j St. Thomas d’ A quin ibid. j St. Francois Xavier 212 j La Sorbonne ibid. j St. Roch • • ibid. ■ St. Sulpice 214 Notre Dame des Victoires 215 ' St. Philippe du Roule ibid. St. Elizabeth 216 St. Francois d’ Assise ihid. St. Nicholas du Chardonnet ibid. St. Jacques du Haut Pas ihid. Abbaye Royale de Port Royal 217 Eglise des Filles de la Visitation de Ste. Marie . . . ihid. The Pantheon 218 Protestant Churches 219 Jewish Synagogues 220 Convents ibid. La Tour de St. Jacquez-La-Boucherie 221 THE CATACOMBS ibid. CEMETERIES. Mont Louis, or Pere la Chaise 227 Mont Martre, or Field of Repose 230 La Morgue ibid. X Contents. SQUARES. Page Place Royale 231 des Victoires sSa Vendome ibid, Louis XVth’s Square 234 Place de Greve 235 Dauphine ibid. — du Chatelet ibid. BeaUveau 236 de la Bastille ibid. FOUNTAINS. Fontaine de k Place St. Michel 237 St. Sulpice ibid, de la Rue de Vaugirard 238 I’Echelle ibid, Grenelle ibid. des Innocens 239 du Chatelet 240 Fountain of the School of Medicine ibid. of the Military Hospital of Gros-Caillou ibid, Fontaine de la Croix du Trahoir 241 St. Eustache * ibid. de la Rue Censier . . . * ibid, de la Rue des Vieilles Andriettes ...... 242 — d’ Alexandre ibid, — de la Place de I’Ecole ibid. de Popincourt ibid, de I’Esplanade du Boulevard de Bondi ibid, Desaix 243 de la Place Royale ibid. de la Rue de Sevres ibid. I’Elephant ibid. St. Martin 244 BRIDGES. The New Bridge 245 The Royal Bridge ibid. Pont Grammont ibid. aux Doubles ibid. CONTENTS^ xi Page Bridge of Louis XVI 247 — of the Change ibid. ^ of St. Michel 248 of our Lady ibid. Little Bridge ibid. Mary Bridge 249 Tournelle Bridge ibid. Pont d’Austerlitz, or Bridge of the Garden of Plants ibid. - ■■■■ ■' de I’Ecole Militaire 250 The City Bridge ibid. Pont des Arts ibid. — ^ J6na, or des Invalides 251 QUAYS ibid. PUBLIC BATHS ^ 253 TRIUMPHAL ARCHES. Gate of St. Denis 256 St Martin 257 Triumphal Arch of the Thuilleries ibid. de I’Etoile 258 THE BARRIERS OF PARIS. Barrier of Fontainebleau 259 • of the Throne, or of St. Anthony ibid. ! of St. Martin 260 of I’Etoile ibid. I of Passy ibid, I MARKETS. i The Corn Market 261 j The Cloth Hall 262 ! The Wine Hall ibid. I Granaries ibid. I Market of the Innocents 263 ! The Poultry Market ibid, ' St. Martin’s Market 264 I St. Joseph’s Market ibid. ' St. John’s Market ilAd, ( St. Germain’s Market 265 I Rag Fair ibid. I The Flower Market ibid. xii CONTENTS. Page The Fruit Market 265 The Horse Market. 266 March6 des Provaires ibid. SLAUGHTER-HOUSES ibid. COURTS OF JUSTICE. Court of Appeal S68 of Accompts ibid. Royal Court ibid. Tribunal of the First Instance 269 of Commerce ibid. Court of Municipal Police 270 Justices of the Peace ibid. Commissaries of the Police ibid. PRISONS. Prison of La Force 271 The Temple ibid. La Conciergerie 272 Ste. P^lagie ibid. Madelonnettes ibid. Bicetre 273 St. Lazare ibid. The Abbey ibid. CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. Hospital for Invalids 274 of Humanity 277 Hospice de la Salp^triere 278 Hbpital de la Charity ibid. Hbpital St. Louis 279 Hbpital Beanjon ibid. Maison de Sant6 ibid. Hopital des Orphelines 280 Hbpital Bicetre ibid. Hbpital de la Piti6 ibid. Hdpital de la Maternity 281 The Foundling Hospital ibid. Hospital for Sick Children ibid. Hbpital Cochin 282 Hospices des ‘Manages 83 CONTENTS, xiil Hospital for Incurable Women Men Establishment for the Wounded Poor Central Office of Admission into the Hospitals. . . . Establishment for Nurses. PUBLIC SCHOOLS. Royal University of France 287 College of Theology ibid. Law ibid. Surgical School ibid. College of Letters and the Sciences 290 The Royal College of France ibid. The Military School 291 Polytechnic School 292 School of the Fine Arts 293 Royal School of Bridges and Roads 294 I RoyalTree School of Design ibid. ( Special and Free School for teaching Young Wo- men to Draw 295 School of Mineralogy ibid. The Royal Veterinary School at Alfort ibid. Ecole Normale 296 Royal Establishment for the Orphan Daughters of the Legion of Honour ibid. Royal Institution for the Blind 297 Deaf and Dumb 298 Lyceums 299 College de St. Barbe ibid, j Riding Schools ibid. j Fencing Academies 300 ! Conservatory of Music ibid. PRIVATE SCHOOLS. I Academical Institution for the European Nations 301 I Academy for the Education of Youth of all Countries 302 j English, French, and Foreign Institution 305 i THE MUSEUMS. I The Royal Garden of Plants b Page 283 ibid. 284 285 ibid. 308 Xiv CONTENTS. Page Cabinet of the School of Mineralogy S17 Museum of French Monuments 318 The King’s Museum 322 Conservatory of Arts and Machines 330 Museum of Artillery 334 Depot of the Models in fortified Towns ibid. Cabinet of Natural History 335 Cabinet of Physiology • • • • ibid. Collection of Paintings in Rue de Lille 336 PUBLIC LIBRARIES. The Royal Library 337 The City Library 341 Library of the Arsenal 342 The Library of St. Genevieve 343 Library of the Royal Palace ibid. Libraries of the Ministers 344 Library of the French Pritaneum ibid. Mazarine Library, or Library of the Four Nations ibid. Library of the Institute at the Palace of the Fine Arts 345 Library of the Medical School ibid. Library of the Museum of Natural History 346 LITERARY SOCIETIES. The Royal Academy, lately called the Institute . . ^47 Athenasum of Arts 349 Paris 350 • — Foreigners ibid. Committee of Longitude 352 Royal Society for the Encouragement of National Industry ibid. Society of Belles Lettres ibid. the Institution ibid. Agricultural Society ibid. Royal Academical Society of Sciences 353 Society of Medicine ibid. The Merchant’s Society ibid. The Celtic Academy ibid. Caveau Moderne ibid. Les Soupers de Momus ibid. CONTENTS. XV Page Reading Rooms, Circulating Libraries 354 Paris Newspapers and Magazines 355 MANUFACTORIES. Royal Manufactory of the Gobelins 359 Manufactory of Plate Glass 36o Royal Porcelain Manufactory 361 Manufactory of Painted Papers ibid. — Crystals 362 Turkish Velvet ibid. Clock and Watch-making ibid. Arms ibid. MODES OF CONVEYANCE, &c. Hackney Coaches 364 One Horse Chaises ibid. Royal Diligences 366 Passage Boats 367 Torch-bearers ibid. THEATRES, &c. Essay on the French Stage 369 The Opera, or the Royal Academy of Music .... 375 The French Theatre 377 The Odeon 380 The Comic Opera 381 TheMre Favart 382 Vaudeville ibid. de I’Ambigu Comique 383 dll Boulevard St. Martin ibid. of Gaiety 384 — : of Varieties ibid. of Benevolence 385 of Novelty ibid. The Olympic Circus 386 Picturesque and Mechanical Theatre of Mr. Pierre ibid. Panorama 387 Panst^r^oma ibid. Cosmorama ibid. Plans in Relief 388 -Exhibitions of Paintings ibid. Xvi CONTENTS. Page Gregoire’s Manufactory of Silk Velvet 3B9 Models of Ancient Ruins ihid. Phantasmagoria ibid. Robertson’s Instructive Spectacle 390 Spectacle de M. Olivier ibid. Mr. Comte’s Exhibition ibid. Seraphin’s Chinese Shadows 391 Puppet-Shows.. ibid. Combats of Animals ibid. Horse Races 393 Lotteries ibid. Mountains ibid. Balls 394 The Tennis Court 395 Exhibitions on the Water ibid. Gaming Houses 396 PROMENADES, PUBLIC GARDENS, &c. The Boulevards 398 Elysian Fields. 400 The Queen’s Course • • 401 The Widow’s Walk 402 The Field of Mars ibid. The Evening’s Rendezvous ibid. Tivoli 403 Garden Marboeuf 404 La Muette 405 Garden of Biron ibid. The Turkish Garden ibid. Garden of the Princes 406 La Chaumiere ibid. Vauxhall d’Et6 ibid. Jardin Ruggieri 407 The Chesnut-Tree Garden ibid. Wood of Vincennes ibid. Pr6s St. Gervais 408 Garden of Mou ceaux ibid. Guinguettes et Bastringues ibid. ENVIRONS OF PARIS 409 DIRECTIONS TO THE TRAVELLER, PRKVtOUS TO SETTING OUT. The present publication is principally intended as a Guide to those who are unacquainted with the capital I of France, while it is presumed that it wilfbe found an useful companion to others, who may have already visited , the Continent. I shall consider my reader as just setting out on his first trip to Paris, and shall proceed to give him, methodically, every necessary information to ensure him a safe and pleasant journey. r The traveller should provide himself with sufficient I French money to defray his expenses from Calais to the metropolis of France. Ten or twelve pounds sterling will allow enough for any trifling delay occasioned by business, pleasure, or accident. French gold and silver coin may be purchased of Mr. Solomon, New Street, Covent Garden; Mr. Smart, i55, Prince’s Street, Leicester Square ; or Mr. Thomas, ;102, Cornhill; on whom the tourist may confidently I rely for punctuality and integrity. Should he possess I any English money, which, on his arrival at Paris, he Imay wish to exchange for the currency of that city, ' Mr. Hollin, in the Palais Royal, will accommodate him on the most liberal terms. There are two or three other houses in the Palais Royal who do business in the same manner. He will do well to take no more Bank of England notes with him than are requisite for his journey to Dover; for, although large notes, in particular, are negotiable on the opposite coast, he will probably find some trouble and inconvenience in the {transaction. 2 COINS. His pecuniary wants, during his stay in France, willll be most pleasantly and advantageously provided for, byyj a letter of credit on some banker at Paris*. This he>! will easily procure if he keeps cash with Messrs. Ham- , mersley or Morland’s, in Pall Mall ; Messrs. Ransom andd Co. 34, Pall Mall ; Messrs, Coutts and Co. in the Strand ; ,| Messrs. Herries and Co. St. James’s Street; or anyy other house that does business with the Paris bankers..| But as this affair is attended with some trouble, and nool advantage to the London bankers, a perfect strangerrf can scarcely expect this accommodation, liberal as theseel gentlemen are, unless he is well recommended by some friend who has a cash account at the house. With this re- commendation, the matter will be readily accomplished. .1 The traveller will deposit with the London banker thee) sum which he designs to expend, and will receive anal order on a Paris banker for the same sum sterling,;, payable at sight. As a measure of precaution, he willll be required to give his signature in his usual mode off MTiting. This is transmitted to Paris ; and, when he presents the order there, he will be again requested too) write his name. The two signatures will be compared, and the money immediately paid to him according to the rate of exchange, without any deduction for brokerage. COINS. Having arranged his pecuniary affairs, the traveller should make himself familiar with the names of the French coins, the ftnpression which they bear, and their actual ami relative value. The currency of France is * The principal bankers at Paris, who correspond with English bouses, are, Perregaux, Lafitte, and Co., 9, Rue du Mont Blanc; Mallet, Fr^res, 13, Rue du Mont Blanc; Hottinguer, 20, Rue du Sentier; Faber, j 20, JRue Bleue ; Callaglian, 15, Rue Bleue ; Recamier, 4i8, Rue Basse du Rempart; Perier, Freres, 27, Rue 1 Neuv.e du Lnx£mbourg j; and Tour ton, Ravel, and Co., ' 2, Rue St. Georges. COINS. 3 principally the same as existed during the ascendency of Buonaparte, with the addition of a few new coins. The following table will afford him considerable as- sistance. English Coinage, A guinea is equal to The crown-piece to half-crown . . . , shilling six-pence . . . . penny ........ ^halfpenny . . . . farthing Vahie in France, r one Old Louis, and a piece I of 24 sols, or a shilling ; < and a New Louis, four i francs, and a piece of 24 V sols. . the piece of six livres. . to the piece of three livres. , 24 sols. . 12 sols. . two sols. . one sol. . two liards. French Comage. gold. English Valuation. £. s. d. The Old Double Louis, containing 48 francs, equal to 2 0 CT Double Napoleon, or 40 francs. 1 13 4 — — Louis, a new coin of the same value, and designed to supersede the former. ——Old Louis, 24 francs 1 0 0 Napoleon, 20 francs 0 16 8 New Louis, 20 francs 0 16 8 SILVER. The Ecu, or six-livre piece piece of five francs, or livres sixty sols, or three livres thirty sols twenty-four sols ...... ^one franc — fifteen sols twelve sols a demi- franc six sols 0 5 0 0 4 2 0 2 6 0 13 0 10 0 0 10 0 0 0 0 6 0 6 5 0 0 3 TABLE OF FRANCS. 4 ‘ BELL-METAL. of. S. d. The piece of six Hards * 0 0 0| COPPER. ^ two sols, the double sou, or ten- centime piece 0 0 1 one sol, or five centimes 0 0 0^ two Hards 0 0 0^ one Hard 0 0 o| THE FOLLOWING TABLE WILL BE FOUND USEFUL TO STRANGERS IN PARIS, WHO ARE NOT ACCUSTOMED TO CALCULATE BY FRANCS ; A METHOD UNIVERSALLY ADOPTED IN THE FRENCH CAPITAL. Francs. 1 French, I^n 0 s. 0 d. 10 2 ....... O 1 8 3 0 2 6 4 0 3 4 5 4 2 6 Six 0 5 0 7 Sept 0 5 10 9 ...... 0 7 6 10 Dix 0 8 4 11 0 9 2 12 13 0 10 10 14 0 11 8 1.5 ...... 16 ... .. 17 18 19 I table of francs- 5 Francs. 20 21 i 22 ! 23 ' 24 25 26 , 27 . 28 , 29 . ) oO , 31 . 32 . : 33 . I 34 . 35 . 36 . i 37 . f 38 . ■ 39 . 40 . ; 41 . . 42 . 43 . • 44 . 45 . ' 46 . 47 . I 48 . 49 . - 50 . 51 . 1 52 . i 53 . I 54 . 1 55 . ] 56 . * 57 . 58 . 59 . French. s. d* Vingt 0 16 8 Vingt-et-un 0 17 6 Vingt-deux 0 18 4 Viugt-trois 0 19 2 Vingt-quatre 1 0 0 Vingt-cinq i 0 10 Vingt-six ...» 1 1 8 Vingt-sept i 2 6 Vingt-huit 1 3 4 Vingt-neuf 1 4 2 Trente 1 5 0 Trente-et-im 1 5 10 Tiente-deux 1 6 8 Trente-troia 17 6 Treute-quatre .. 18 4 Trente-cinq 1 9 2 Trente-six 1 10 0 Trente-sept . 1 10 10 Trente-huit 1 11 8 Trente-neuf 1 12 6 Quarante 1 13 4 Quarante-et-un 1 14 2 Quarante-deiix 1 15 0 Quarante-trois 1 15 10 Quarante-qnatre 1 16 8 Quarante-cinq 1 17 6 Qiiarante-six 1 18 4 Quarante-sept 1 19 2 Qnarante-huit 2 0 0 Quarante-neuf. 2 0 10 Cinquante 2 1 8 Cinquante-et-un 2 2 6 Cinquante -deux 2 3 4 Cinquante-trois 2 4 2 Cinquante-quatre .... 2 5 0 Cinquante-cinq 2 5 10 Ciuquante-six 2 6 8 Cinquante-sept 2 7 6 Cinqiiante-huit 2 8 4 Cinquante-ueuf 2 9 2 I 6 TABLE OF FRANCS. Francs. 60 . 61 . 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 ...... 82 4 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 French. of. s. d. Soixante 2 10 0 Soixante-et-un 2 10 : 10 Soixante-deux 2 11 8 Soixante-trois 2 12 6 Soixante-quatre 2 13 4 Soixante-cinq 2 14 2 Soixante-six 2 15 0 Soixante-sept 2 15 10 Soixante-huit 2 16 8 Soixante-neuf 2 17 6 Soixante-dix 2 18 4 Soixante-onze 2 19 2 Soixante-douze 3 0 0 Soixante-treize 3 0 10 Soixante-quatorze .... 3 1 8 Soixante-quinze 3 2 6 Soixante-seize 3 3 4 Soixante-dix-sept .... 3 4 2 Soixante-dix-huit .... 3 5 0 Soixante-dix-neuf .... 3 5 10 Quatre-vingt 3 6 8 Quatre-vingt-un 3 7 6 Quatre-vingt-deux .... 3 8 4 Quatre-vingt-trois .... 3 9 2 Quatre-vingt-quatre .. 3 10 0 Qnatre-vingt*cinq .... 3 10 10 Quatre-vingt-six 3 11 8 Quatre-vingt-sept .... 3 12 6 Quatre-vingt-huit .... 3 13 4 Quatre-vingt-neuf .... 3 14 2 Quatre-vingt-dix 3 15 0 Quatre-vingt-onze .... 3 15 10 Quatre-vingt-douze .. 3 16 8 Quatre-vingt-treize , . 3 17 6 Quatre-vingt-quatorze . 3 18 4 Quatre-vingt-quinze . . 3 19 2 Quatre-vingt-seize .... 4 0 0 Quatre-vingt-dix-sept . 4 0 10 Qiiatie-vingt-dix-huit . 4 1 8 Quatre-vingt-dix-neuf . 4 2 6 TABLE OF FRANCS. 7 '^rancs. 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 200 300 500 1000 2000 French. s. d. Cent 4 3 4 Cent-un 4 4 2 Cent-deux 4 6 0 Cent-trois 4 5 10 Cent-quatre 4 6 8 Cent'clnq 4 7 6 Cent-six 4 8 4 Cent-sept 4 9 2 Cent-huif 4 10 0 Cent-neuf 4 10 10 Cent-dix 4 11 8 Cent-onze 4 12 6 Cent-douze 4 13 4 Cent-treize ... 4 14 2 Cent-quatorze 4 15 0 Cent-quinze 4 15 10 Cent-seize 4 16 8 Cent-dix-sept V. .. 4 17 6 Cent-dix-huit j. . . . 4 18 4 Cent-dix-neuf. ........ 4 19 2 Six-vingts 5 0 0 Cent-vingt-et-un 5 0 10 Cent-vingt-deux 5 18 Cent-vingt-trois 5 2 6 Cent-vingt-quatre 5 3 4 Cent-vingt-cinq 5 4 2 Cent-vingt-six 5 5 0 Cent-vingt-sept 5 5 10 Cent-vingt-huit 5 6 8 Cent-vingt-neuf. 5 7 6 Cent-trente 5 8 4 Deiix-cents 8 6 8 Trois-cents 12 10 0 Cinq-cents 20 16 8 Mille 41 13 4 Deux-mille 83 6 4 8 PASSPORTS, BAGGAGE. The traveller must next think of his baggage. Few things are so connected vrith easy and comfortable tra- velling as light and portable baggage. Every kind of wearing apparel can be procured cheaper in Paris than in London, and at the shortest notice j but, should the Englishman feel desirous of appearing in the precise costume of his native country, he must not depend on the Parisian tailor. No entreaties will prevail on him to make a single habiliment which does not at once pro- claim itself of French manufacture. Should the traveller have more luggage than he wishes to take under liis own charge, Mr. Bray, of the Packet Office, 357, Strand, will convey it to any part of the Continent on reasonable terms. Mr. Sugden, of the Packet Office, Strand, also transacts the same kind of business. PASSPORTS. Before our tourist proceeds on bis route, it is abso- lutely necessary for him to procure a passport. To obtain this, he must apply at the office of the French ambassador, No. 10, New-Cavendish Street, Portland Place, between the hours of twelve and four. He will signify his wish, and leave his name. If he has fixed on the route which he means to pursue on his journey to Paris, it may some- what facilitate the attainment of his object if he mention this; but, except under circumstances of much suspicion, this is of little consequence. If he call at the office on the following day, he will obtain the passport without expense, signed by the ambassador. It is perfectly unnecessary to apply for a passport at the Foreign Office,as was formerly the case ; the passport of the French ambassador will be quite sufficient. PASSPORTS. 9 Should the traveller wish to go through Belgium or Holland before he goes to Paris, he may procure a pass- port by addressing a letter to his Excellency, Baron Fagel, at the office. No. 14, Buckingham Street, Strand, signed by two respectable housekeepers to vs’hom he may be known ; the passport will then be granted on the follow- ing day, free of expense. The office is open from 11 to 3. All foreigners, except the subjects of the King of the Netherlands, must produce at the office a passport from the ambassador, or minister, or consul of their respective countries, and which passport will be countersigned, and delivered on the following day. The following is the usual form of the passport : Remarques. A charge d’etre vis6 par les au- torit^s coni- p^tentes. All Nom du Roi, Nous Marquis d’Osmond ; Pair de France, Lieutenant G6n6ral des Armies dll Roi, et son Ambassadeur a la Cour de Londres Prions les au- torit^s civiles, et militaires, chargees de la Police int^rieure du Royaume, et de tous les pays amis, ou allies dela France, de laisser librement passer Monsieur Edward Planta, Gentilhomme Auglais allant de Londres a Paris, par Calais, seul et de lui donner aide et protection, en cas de b^soin. Le present passeport, delivr6 a Lon- dres, le.. L’ Ambassadeur de France, Osmond. Seal of the Ambassador. Par son Excellence, Le S6cr6taire d’Ainbassade, J. Verdet. Seal of the Embassy. Signature du Porteur, Edicaid Elanta. 10 PLAN OF THE This passport will be demanded at every fortified town, and examined by the otficer on duty. If the traveller wish to stop for some days on his journey, the master of the hotel will put before him a ruled paper, with the fol- lowing heads, which he must fill up, and sign his name at the bottom : viz. name, place of abode, profession, where going, age, &c. This paper is sent to the office of police. It will be mentioned hereafter, that the same rule is observed when the traveller arrives in Paris. PLAN OF THE CIRCULAR EXCHANGE NOTES, &c. OF MESSRS. HERRIES, FARQUHAR, AND GO., BANKERS, ST. JAM Es’s-STREET, LONDON, For the Use of British Travellers, and others, in Foreign Parts. The object of this Plan is to supply Travellers on the Continent with money wherever they may require it, without there being any necessity for determining the route beforehand ; and to supply other Individuals who may haye remittances to make abroad, with Bills upon any particular place that they desire. For this purpose a/ correspondence is established with all the principal places in Europe. The Circular Exchange Notes, Which are calculated to answer the same purpose abroad as Bank Post Bills in England, are made out in even sums from o£’20. sterling upwards, and are payable, at CIRCULAR EXCHANGE NOTES, &C. 11 the option of the possessor, at any one of the various places, named in the annexed list. The traveller is fur- nished, for that purpose, with a general Letter of Order addressed to the diiferent Agents of the House ; which Letter, whilst it serves to identify, also gives -liini a claim to any attention or good offices that he may stand in need of. The value of the Notes is reduced into foreign money at the current usance course of exchange on London, at the time and place of payment, subject to no deduction for commission, or any other charge whatever, unless the payment be required in some particular coin which hap- pens to bear a premium. They are payable to order; and the Traveller will, naturally, for his own security, not endorse’ them till he receives the money : besides which, such checks are concerted with the Agents as to render a successful forgery of his name scarcely pos- sible. As a still further precaution, they are drawn, like Bank Post Bills, at seven days’ sight ; but, although so drawn, they are always paid on presentation, except when there is room for suspicion of their not being pre- sented by the right owner; in which case the Agents are instructed to avail themselves of the seven days to make the necessary inquiries, and to give time also to the real proprietor to make known his loss. — Upon the whole, therefore, these Notes, it is presumed, possess the recommendation of combining, in a peculiar manner, Security, Convenience, and Economy. I The Tranter able Exchange Notes Are payable at one particular place only, and are calcu- lated chiefly for making remittances of money to per- sons whose residences are fixed. — They are given for any required sum, previously reduced into foreign money at the last quoted course of exchange from the place where payable, and they are negotiable, or transferable from hand to hand, by simple endorsement, in the same manner as Bills of Exchange. — They are payable, as well as the Circular Notes, without any ileductioii whatever. 12 PLAN OF THE From the foregoing short explanation, it will be seen that the great advantages of this Plan over common Letters of Credit^ are, First, — The option which the Traveller has, of receiving his money at 40 many different places. And, Secondly, — His being exempted from the pay- ment of any commission, or charge of any kind, the stamp duty only excepted. The real convenience, however, of these Notes, having been universally acknowledged by Travellers of all de- scriptions, ever since the Plan was first thought of by the iate Sir Robert Berries, 'and by his House carried into execution (now nearly fifty years ago), it is the less neces- sary to enlarge on the subject here : but any further ex- planation that may be wished for, either with regard to the Notes, or to Letters of Credit, which the House also furnishes, whenever required, will be given with plea- sure, either verbally or by letter. All Letters of Credit in the common form are subject to a Commission of one per cent. ; and often, from the ne- cessity of getting them transferred from one place to another, two or three of these Commissions are incurred. List of Places 'where the Circular Notes are optionally payable. Abbeville Augsburg Breslaw Aix in Provence Bagneres Brunswick Aix la Chapelle Barege Brussels Aleppo Barcelona Cadiz Alexandria Basle Caen Alicante Bayonne Cairo Amiens Berlin Calais Amsterdam Berne Cam bray Ancona Besan^on Carthagena Angers Bilboa Chambery Angoul^me Blois Civita Vecchia Anspach Bologna Coblentz Antwerp Bordeaux Cologne Athenes Boulogne sur Mer Constantinople Avignon Bremen Copenhagen CIRCULAR EXCHANGE NOTES, &C, 13 Corunna Malaga Rome Dantzig Malta Rotterdam Dieppe Manheim Rouen Dijon Mantua St. Galle Douay Marseilles St. Maloes Dresden Mentz St. Omers Dunkirk Memel St. Petersburg Dusseldorf Messina SchafFhausen Elsinore Metz Seville Ferrara Middelburg Sienna Florence Milan Smyrna Frankfort Modena Soissons Ghent Montpellier Spa Genoa Moscow Stockholm Geneva Munich Stuttgard Gibraltar Munster Strasburg Gottenburg Nancy Tain Gottingen Nantes Toulon The Hague Naples Toulouse Hamburgh Neufchatel Tournay Hanover Nice Tours Havre de Grace Nismes Treves Hesse Cassel Nuremberg Trieste Inspruck Oporto Turin Konigsberg Orleans Valencia Lausanne L’Orient Valenciennes Leipsick Ostend Venice Liege Palermo Verdun Lille Paris Verona Lisbon Parma Vevay Leghorn Perpignan Vienna Lubeck Prague Warsaw Lucca Ratisbon Weimar Lyons Rheims Y verdun Madrid Riga Zante Maestricht Rochelle Zurich Magdeburg N. B. Besides these places^ there are few or none in Europe where the Circular Notes are not now so well known as to be negotiable currently, as bills at short date on London. PLAN OF THE Exchange Notes and Letters of Credit^ ot MESSRS. MORLANDS, AURIOL, AND CO., BANKERS, NO. . 56 ', PALL-MALL, AND MESSRS. RANSOM AND CO. Banker Sj 34, Pall-Mall, A Correspondence is settled at most of the principal places on the Continent of Europe, in order to accom- modkte travellers with money, at any place which best suits their conveniency ; and to supply those with bills upon any particular place, who desire to make remit- tances from hence. French, being the most general language, is used for this plan. CIRCULAR EXCHANGE NOTES Are given for any sum, from twenty pounds upwards, and answer the purpose abroad, of BANK POST-BILLS in England. They are payable to the order of the traveller, without any commission or charges, at any one of the various places mentioned in a letter of order, given along with them* ; and although drawn at seven days’ sight, in order to have a little time to stop payment at the adjacent places, should they be lost, and, in that case, for the value to be repaid in London ; yet they are always paid at sight, when presented by the traveller himself. They are reduced into foreign money, at the current usance course of exchange on London ,- — mother words, the price of English money at the time and place of payment. The traveller, for his own security. * The places where the Circular Notes may be received are nearly the same as Messrs. HERRIES and Co-s. EXCHANGE NOTES, &C. 15 vill not indorse any of the notes till he receives payment them ; at which time the agents are instructed to take wo receipts, serving one purpose — one on the back of he notes ; the other separately, to prove the payment, n case any of the notes should be lost, in sending them )ack discharged. LETTER OF ORDER [s always given with the circular notes, and contains a general address to all the correspondents of the house whose names are annexed to an alphabetical list of places ; It the same time it recommends the traveller to their civilities. For safety, the traveller writes his own pame in this letter of order, which the agents are in- dructed to compare with his signature, on paying the lotes, so that it answers the purpose of a general letter ♦f advice. TRANSFERABLE EXCHANGE-NOTES \re addressed to one place only, being reduced into the money of that place, at the last quoted exchange n om thence, and may be transferred from one person to another by simple indorsement. They are chiefly in- tended to remit particnlar sums abroad, or for the use of those persons who are constantly resident at one place, because they may be paid away to tradesmen and others, ,n the same manner as bank or bankers’ notes are passed from hand to hand in London. These, as well as the circular notes, are free of all charges. LETTERS OF CREDIT. ! Although the use of them, on the former footing, cannot pe recommended, nor can they be of such extended utility tis the notes ; nevertheless the house will, when required, and satisfled of the security, give them on such places as nave a direct exchange upon London. They are sub- ject to a single commission and postage at the place of I c 2 16 DIFFERENT CONVEYANCES. payment, and to another to the house, when they are reimbursed at home ; but the money will be paid at the just course, without the exaction of any accumulated charges whatsoever. RECOVERING MONEY FROM ABROAD. To render their extensive correspondence as useful as possible, the House will take bills of drawers or endorsers of undoubted credit, upon most of the places mentioned in their list, in order to recover money, which cannot be done in the common course of business. ROUTES. Our tourist being now completely equipped for his journey, I will proceed to describe the different routes from London to Paris, and the most convenient, pleasant, and economical methods of travelling. The modes of conveyance from the English metropolis to various parts of the coasts are almost innumerable. NEW ENGLISH COACHES IN FRANCE, Corresponding with the Golden Cross, Charing Cross, and Cross Keys, Wood Street, every morning at seven and eight o’clock, and every evening at six and half past six o’clock. The only office in London corresponding with the Old Company of the Royal Messageries, Rue Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, at Paris, and where places can be secured to Paris, Dover, Calais, Amiens, Abbe- ville, Dunkirk, Bruges, Brussels, Lille, Ostend, Cam- bray, Valenciennes, Douay, &c. &c. Packet-boats are always ready, at Dover and Calais, for the conveyance of passengers booked throughout ; but persons wishing to stop at either place, are allowed to do it, and resume their journey at pleasure, without any extra expense, provided it is mentioned when the place is taken. DIFFERENT CONVEYANCES. 17 A new English light coach leaves Calais every morning at six o’clock, through Boulogne, Montreuil, Abbeville, Amiens, &c., and performs the journey in thirty-six hours. The fares by this coach are : * From London S Inside ...31. 10s. Od. 1 Passage by sea to Paris I Cabriolet 2/. 10s. Od. ^ included. Another English light coach leaves Calais every morn- ing at ten o’clock, through Boulogne, Montreuil, Abbe- ville, Poix, Beauvais, «&c., and arrives at Paris the next day, at six o’clock in the evening. The fares are as follows : From London < Inside .. .31. 10s. Orf. I Passage by sea to Paris ( Outside. .2/. 10s. Od. 5 included. On landing at Calais, the passengers are requested to apply to Mr, Tarnier, director at the coach-office, Messe-Meurice’s Hotel, Rue de la Prison, from whence coaches set out every day for the places above-mentioned. The coach puts up at the P^ris Hotel, Dover, kept by Mrs. Poidevin. There are also coaches, three times a day, from the White Bear, to Dover, Ramsgate', Margate, Deal, Can- terbury, Chatham, Rochester and Gravesend. From the office where the coach puts up at Paris there are coaches which set off every day for all the principal towns and cities of France, and correspond with other coaches passing and repassing through Germany, Switzer- land, Italy, Spain, and convey passengers at a very mo- derate price. , , , , ill ^ Passengers and parcels booked at the above omce tor all parts of the kingdom, and also to any part of the Continent. For the convenience of persons resident in the city, places and parcels may be booked for Paris, at the Cross Keys, Wood-street, two doors from Cheapside, whence coaches set out for Dover, Deal, Margate, Ramsgate, and Canterbury, every morning and evening ; and for =*= It is a very unthankful part of our duty to attempt any accurate account of the price of travelling, as the proprietors are perpetually varying in their charges, c 3 18 DIFFERENT CONVEYANCES. Rochester and Chatham four times a day. From the Spread Eagle Office, Webb’s Hotel, No. 234, Piccadilly, and the Spread Eagle, Gracechurch-street, coaches set out every morning at half-past seven^ and evening at half- past six; in direct correspondence with the improved Light Coach, the Hirondelle, running from Calais to Paris in thirty hours. FARES. From London CInside . . »Sl. 10 s. Od.l Passage by sea to Paris ^ Outside . .2/. 10 s. Od. 3 included. Director of the Diligence in London, Mr. Murray^ Spread Eagle Office, Webb’s Hotel, 234, Piccadilly. Ditto, at Calais, M. Laine, Rue Neuve, No. 22. — Coach Offices at Paris. — Hotel des Fermes, Rue de Bouloy, No. 24, near the Palais Royal. Brighton, Southampton, and Ramsgate coaches leave the above Inns every morning. From Hatchett’s New White Horse Cellar, a coach starts for Dover and Deal every morning and evening at six, a coach to Worthing every morning at seven o’clock, and a coach to Margate every morning at six. Coaches likewise proceed from the same Inns to Hast- ings every morning, and to Brighton every morning and evening, at very reduced fares. An unusual competition among the coach proprietors last year, reduced the fare, to the former place, as low as 18s. inside, and 10 s. out- side ; and to the latter place the charge was only 16s. in- side, and 8 s. outside. No dependence, however, is to be placed on any statement of prices, as they are conti- nually changing according to circumstances, particularly during the summer. A coach starts for Dover, from the Bell and Crown Inn, Holborn, every morning, at seven o’clock, and goes over Blackfriars Bridge. Inside, ll. 7s.; outside IL The journey is performed in twelve hours. At the Golden Cross, Charing-cross, they charge ll. 13s. inside ; ll. outside. — Only four inside. The Princess Charlotte coach starts from the White Horse, Fetter-lane, every morning at nine o’clock, and arrives at Brighton at five o’clock in the afternoon. An- other Brighton coach goes from Blossoms’ Inn, Laurence^ DIFFERENT CONVEYANCES. 19 lane ; and the Angel, St. Clement’s, every morning at ihalf'past seven o’clock. I At the Golden Cross, Charing-cross, the fare is, inside, li. 4s.; outside, 12s.— Only four inside. From the Bolt-in-Tim, Fleet-street, a coach starts for ^ye every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday morning, at six o’clock. From the Angel Inn, at the hack of St. Clement’s ichurch, the Dover and Portsmouth mails start every evening ; likewise the Paris mail, every morning, at a quarter before seven o’clock. If a party engage the iwhole coach inside, and part of the outside, it will take Ithem up at their own residence, and start at their own time. Passengers may stop at any town on the route, and proceed in the next coach (provided there is room) without additional charge. ROYAL MESSAGERIES OF TPIE NETHERLANDS, Connected with the Golden Cross, Charing-cross, and the Cross Keys, Wood-street, Cheapside. Coaches daily to Calais by Dover. Inside 2l. outside, lb Ts . : passage by sea included. Coaches to Ostend by Dover every Tuesday and Fri- day ; inside 2b 13s., outside 2b; passage by sea included. 20 FARES TO CALAIS AND OSTEND. The packets from Dover to Ostend sail every Wed- nesday and Saturday at noon. Destination, By Dover & Ostend eve- ry Tuesday and Friday. By Dover and Calais every day. Fare Inside. luggage per cwt small parcels fare inside. luggage per cwt small parcels 1 S. d. S. d. L s. d. L S. d. L s. d. 1. S. d. Aix-la-Chapelle, 4 19 0 1 19 0 0 8 10 b 8 0 2 5 0 0 9 4 Amsterdam, 6 10 0 2 4 0 0 9 4 6 0 0 2 11 0 0 10 2 Antwerp, 3 17 0 1 9 6 0 6 4 4 6 0 1 17 0 0 6 8 Arras, 3 10 0 1 15 0 0 5 6 Bois-le-Duc, 4 14 0 1 17 6 0 8 4 5 3 0 2 5 0 0 8 6 Bonn*, 5 16 0 6 6 0 Breda, 4 6 0 1 13 6 0 6 10 4 15 0 2 2 00 7 4 Bruges, 3 0 0 1 b 6 0 4 4 3 0 0 1 10 00 6 6 Brussels, 3 14 0 1 9 6 0 6 4 4 3 0 1 17 0 0 6 S Calais, 2 0 0 1 4 00 3 2 Cam bray. 4 10 0 3 14 0 1 15 0 0 6 6 Coblentz*, 6 15 0 7 5 0 Cologne, 5 8 0 2 3 6 0 12 4 5 18 0 2 10 0 0 10 0 Courtray, 3 15 0 1 8 6 0 6 4 3 7 0 1 14 00 5 6 Douay, 6 0 1 14 00 5 0 Dunkirk, 7 0 1 6 OO 4 6 Dusseldorf*, 6 8 0 6 IR 0 1 Frankfort, 8 18 0 9 8 0 1 Ghent, 3 7 0 1 7 0 0 5 4 3 15 0 1 15 00 5 8 Gorcum, 4 16 0 1 16 6 0 7 10 5 6 0 2 5 00 8 8 Haarlem, 5 12 0 2 5 0 0 10 0 6 2 0 2 12 op 12 0 The Hague, 5 3 0 2 4 6 0 9 4 6 12 0 2 12 op 10 2 Juliers, 5 2 0 2 2 0 0 10 0 5 11 0 2 7 op 10 6 Leyden, 5 5 0 2 4 0 0 9 6 5 14 0 2 12 10 10 6 Liege, 4 9 0 1 14 6 0 7 4 4 18 0 2 2 00 7 10 Lisle, 3 18 0 1 9 6 0 7 4 3 0 0 1 12 op 4 6 Luxembourg, 6 12 0 2 12 6 0 14 0 7 0 0 3 0 op 14 0 Maestricht, 5 0 0 1 16 0 0 9 0 5 9 0 2 5 0 0 Q 0 Mayence*, 8 S 0 8 18 0 Mons, 4 3 0 1 13 6 0 6 10 4 0 0 2 3 on 7 0 Munsterf, 8 10 0 9 0 0 N amiir. 4 5 0 1 13 0 0 7 4 5 0 0 2 3 00 7 0 Nimeguen, 5 10 0 2 4 0 0 8 6 6 0 0 2 10 0 0 9 6 Ostend, 2 13 0 1 4 6 0 3 4 2 13 0 1 9 op 6 0 Rotterdam, 5 1 0 2 1 6 0 8 10 5 10 0 2 9 op 9 2 ^a. 6 17 0 2 0 0 0 12 0 7 6 0 2 5 op 9 10 Tournay, 3 18 0 1 10 6 0 7 4 3 6 0 1 13 0 0 5 0 Utrecht, 5 1 0 1 19 6 0 8 4 5 11 0 2 7 0 ( 3 9 2 Valenciennes, 4 17 0 3 10 0 1 14 3 5 0 Verviers, 5 0 0 1 17 0 0 9 0 5 9 0 2 5 ol( 3 9 0 PACKETS, 21 * The conveyance of money, luggage, parcels, and jmerchandise to Bonn, Coblentz, Mayence and Frank- |fort, is to be paid no further than Cologne, where the responsibility of the Royal Messageries of the Nether- lands ceases. f The conveyance of merchandise, money, parcels, &c., is to be paid for no further than Nimeguen. The outside places are 13s. less than the inside. PACKETS*. CALAIS. A Packet sails from FresH Wharf, London Bridge, every Friday, and from Calais to London every Monday. The fare for cabin passengers is 1/. 11s. 6d., and ll. is. each for servants and children. Packets sail daily from Dover to Calais. The price of passage is 10s., board not included. DIEPPE. Packets sail from London to Dieppe two or three times a week. Cabin, 21. 2s. Servants and children, 1/. Is. Apply at 357, Strand. Packets connected with the office, at 357 y Strand, like- wise sail four times a week from Brighton to Dieppe. Packets also sail every evening from Brighton to Dieppe, particulars of which may be known at Mr. Sug- den’s, 361, Strand ; at the Rose and Crown, Lower Thames-Street, or at Mr. D. Woolf’s, 45, West Cliff, Brighton. By a new regulation of the Custom House at Brighton, and which is now adopted at most of the out-ports, no passengers are allowed to clear out, or to have their lug- gage examined, after six o’clock in the evening. • There is as much uncertainty respecting the pack- ets, as the coaches, and we must refer the traveller to the packet offices. 22 PACKETS. OSTEND Packets sail from the Custom House Quay, Lower Tliames-street, and from Botolph Wharf, London, every Sunday. The best cabin, ll. 11s. 6d. Servants and children, 1/. Is. The state room may be hired by a pri- vate family, on giving a few days’ notice. Apply at 357, Strand, or at the above wharfs^ BOULOGNE. A packet-boat sails from Rye to Boulogne every Thurs- day. This is the nearest route from London to Paris by twenty miles. It is fifty miles less by sea than from Brighton to Dieppe, and thirty miles less by land than through Dover. The fare from London to Rye is ll. 5s. and from Rye to Boulogne ll. Is. Inquire at the George Inn, Rye. A vessel sails from Hastings to Boulogne every Mon- day morning, at seven o’clock, and returns on Thursday morning. Cabin, 15s. Deck, lOs. 6d. The passage is generally accomplished in five hours. The coach fi’om London to Hastings is 15s. inside, and lOs. outside. HAVRE. A packet sails from Southampton every Friday, and returns every Monday. The packet affords excellent accommodation for passengers and goods. The master to be seen at Messrs. Weeks and Co. Southampton. From Havre, coaches daily set off for Paris, and per- form the journey in eighteen hours. Any further information respecting Packets may be procured at Messrs. W. F. Bray and Co., commercial shipping agents. No. 357, Strand, and Mr. Sugden, Packet office, 361, Strand. At these offices insurances are safely effected, goods and baggage warehoused for all parts, both foreign and coastways, until the time of 8 ROUTES TO PARIS. 23 shipping, regularly entered and cleared at the Custom iHouse, and safely conveyed from any part of the town, on spring caravans or lighters, to the respective vessels. I Tire usual allowance for luggage by the coaches to- iwards the coast is 14lbs. for each passenger; although a trunk weighing 20 or SOlbs., will frequently be suffered jto pass without notice, if it be not too bulky. The extra teharge for overweight is l\d. per lb. Travellers who wish to proceed to Switzerland, will gain every necessary information from Mr. Emery, the agent, at Mr. Recordon’s, Cockspur-street, Charing-cross, or at the White Bear, Piccadilly, The journey is per- formed in sixteen days, allowing two at Paris, and sleep- ing every night at some town. The proprietors furnish lodging and provision. The carriage is roomy and con- venient— the passengers are limited to six. One cw’t. of luggage is allowed to each, and the charge is only 251. English. ROUTES TO PARIS. I WILL now give a particular description of each of the principal routes from London to Paris ; merely pre- mising that the traveller from the English capital will find it the most comfortable mode of conveyance which he jean adopt to proceed to Dover, either by coach or post- chaise.; there hire the packet to Calais, and make terms at Calais for the remainder of the journey, either by post- ing, cabriolet, or diligence. By this method his time will be at his own disposal. He will not be hurried on board when the wind is tempestuous, or the weather un- favourable. He will not be compelled to sail by night, inor will any of the beauties of the voyage be lost, i ' In describing tlie first route, I shall include every di- ,rection which can contribute to the expedition or com- Ifort of tlie traveller, whatever other route he may think I proper to pursue. It will indeed be found a sufficient guide to the tourist in every part of France. I , It may be presumed, that the traveller is already ac- quainted with the beauties of his native land. Until he 21 . ROUTE FROM LONDON TO DOVER, has familiarized himself with them, he has no admissible excuse for visiting foreign countri'es. I shall therefore content myself with merely giving the names and dis- tances of the towns and villages through which he will pass in his way to the coast. ROUTE FROM LONDON TO DOVER. Miles. Bricklayer’s Arms ... Half-way House .. ... n Hatcham New Cross 3^ Deptford Bridge .... 4^ Blackheath 5| Shooter’s Hill 8^ Welling 10^ Bexley Heath 11^ Crayford 13 Dartford 15 Horn’s Cross 17 NorthHeet 20^ Gravesend 21| Chalk Street 23 Gad’s Hill 26i Stroud.. 28| Rochester 29 Chatham 30 Star Inn 32 Miles. Rainham Moor Street Newington Street . ... 36| Key Street Chalkwell Sittingbourn Rapchild Green Street Ospring Boughton Street . . Boughton Hill . . . . Harbledown Canterbury Bridge Half-way House . ... 62| Lydden Ewell Buckland Dover Directions on arriving at Dover, The best inns at Dover are Wright’s Hotel, and Ship Inn, near the Custom-house; the York Hotel*; Jell’s Union Hotel and Coffee House. Travellers, who are • This house was honoured with the presence of the Emperor of Russia, King of Prussia, Blucher, &c. DIRECTIONS ON ARRIVING AT DOVER. 25 I jsatisfied with plain, but comfortable accommodations, jand moderate charges, will find every thing that they (can desire at the Hotel de Paris, at which the diligence jstops, or at the City of London. The King’s Head is an (excellent Inn, and the charges are very moderate ; it is (kept by Mrs.Poidevin, and is earnestly recommended to ithe notice of English travellers. The traveller will generally find every necessary infor- Bimation respecting the packets at the hotel at which he 9 lodges ; for, as they are frequently changing their names f and stations, no accurate lists can be given. The porter Pof the hotel will safely convey his luggage to the Custom- rhouse, where it must be regularly inspected previous to Nits being carried on board. The traveller should accom- I pany his baggage to the Custom-house, where, if he is not uncivil himself, he will meet with the greatest civi- lity from the officers in attendance. Every portmanteau and box is opened, but the officers sometimes content themselves with merely lifting the lid ; and it is seldom " that they do more than gently slide their hands down the 5 sides of the boxes or portmanteaus, without disturbing ' the packages. I The traveller will find it of advantage to submit to ) these necessary forms with a good grace, and readily to I produce his keys at the first requisition. I A trifling charge is made for this examination, and the I traveller must enter his name in the book which contains the entry of his luggage. If the tourist is pressed for time, or has some little article which it may not be quite convenient to show, a small gratuity to the officer, when opening the boxes, may not be quite thrown away. As soon as this examination is ended, the trunks are again taken up by the porter, and carried on board the vessel in which the traveller has secured his passage. Should the traveller put his luggage on board one vessel, and by accident, or choice, sail by another packet, he may depend on finding his trunks safe at the Custom- house on the opposite shore. The traveller may walk to the quay as soon as he ar- rives at Dover, and inquire what packets are ready to •ail : but he will be prudent not to engage with any of n 26 PESCRIFTION OF DOVER. the captains or sailors, by whose importunity he may probably be annoyed. Except he has already been recommended to some particular captain, let him take all their cards to his landlord, who will, generally, ho- nestly inform him on whom he can place dependence for punctuality in sailing, knowledge of the profession, and good accommodation. He should likewise endeavour to arrive at Dover early in the day ; he will then generally find packets ready to sail. Their usual hours for sailing are between ten and two ; in which case they almost in- variably reach the opposite coast before dusk. The passage is frequently completed in three hours, but it is sometimes prolonged to five or six. It will therefore be advisable to take some slight provisions on board. Some of the packets afford accommodations which are far from despicable ; and a single man, or a party of gen- tlemen, can well put up with them, if necessary, for one night. The traveller, however, who studies his comfort, and does not regard a trifling expense, will return to his inn, from which he will be punctually summoned when the vessel is ready to sail. Description of Dover. If he has some hours to dispose of at Dover, he can fully and pleasantly employ them in examining the na- tural and artificial curiosities of the place. Dover is situated in a pleasant valley, between two steep and lofty cliffs. A little river runs through the place, and empties itself into the harbour. The town consists of two parts, connected by a long narrow street, called Snaregate Street, from the romantic and tremendous rocks which hang over it, and seem to threaten the pas- senger with immediate destruction. On a lofty hill to the north stands the Castle, a vene- rable and majestic building, well worthy of notice. It dates its origin from the Romans, whose labours are yet ARRIVAL AT" CALAIS. 27 evident in the octagonal building at the west end of the church, and the ditch which encloses it. The antiquary will delight in the various and almost perfect remains of Roman, Saxon, and Norman archi- tecture, which different parts of the Castle present ; the military man will admire its impregnable strength : and all will gaze with transport on the sublime prospect which unfolds itself to the view. To the South is the lofty cliff which Shakspeare so poetically describes in his Tragedy of King Lear. In tlie cliffs are some artificial excavations, which are generally pointed out to the stranger. They are calcu- lated to hold an immense number of soldiers, in case of an attack from an enemy. The new Pier is much crowded as a promenade, and commands a fine view of Dover, as well as the shipping. Mr. Ledger has an excellent Reading-room opposite the Hotel-de-Paris, where the London papers may be seen daily. ARRIVAL AT CALAIS. On arriving at the opposite coast, it is usual to give a trifle to the sailors of the packet. Thej-^ generally expect some gratuity for their attentions while you are on board, particularly if the passage is prolonged by contrary winds. The moment the vessel reaches the Pier, Custom-house officers step on board to demand passports from the pas- sengers, which are sent to the office of police. As soon as the traveller sets foot on the Pier of Calais, he will find himself surrounded by a crowd of men and boys, eagerly importuning to be employed in the con- veyance of his baggage, or offering cards of address to the different Hotels. It may be prudent to keep the small parcels in his own possession, but the porters have the character of being strictly honest, and in general may be almost implicitly trusted. > The traveller is first taken to a miserable hut on the quay, where his smaller parcels are searched. His trunk is sent to the Custom-house, where it is rather more ri- D 2 28 THE CALAIS INNS. gorously examined than at Dover. A charge of 18 sons is made for the examination of each trunk. The tra- veller is required to inscribe his name in a book kept at the Custom-house for the purpose. The luggage may be intrusted to the conductor of the diligence, or the master of the Hotel. His passport is soon sent after him, and an additional charge of two franks is made for countersigning it. In some cases it is necessary for tra- vellers to make personal application at the office of po- lice for their passports, but this is only required when they are in pursuit of suspicious characters, they then wish to see all persons who pass through the town. CALAIS INNS. The tourist should have previously determined on the inn at which he means to take up his quarters, or applied to the captain of the vessel to recommend him to a com- fortable Hotel; he will otherwise be sadly annoyed, and distracted by the mob of boys and waiters, each of whom vociferously recommends, and would almost drag him by force to, his favourite Inn. The most superb Inn is the Hotel, formerly the cele- brated Dessein’s; and now kept by Quillaque and Du- plessis. The apartments are elegant, and the accommo- dation every thing that can be wished ; but the charge is proportionable, and will not suit every pocket. At the Hotel d’Kingston, Rue d’Etoile, kept by an Englishman of the name of Davis, the traveller will meet with good English accommodation, and very moderate charges. — But, if he intend to continue his journey by the dili- gence, he will probably resort to Meurice’s Hotel, Rue de la Prison, whence the diligence starts, and where he will find much civility, and no exorbitant demands. The following list of the regular charges at this Hotel is put into the hands of every stranger ; — Francs. Cents, The table-d’hote, or dinner, which includes half a bottle of the common table wine. . 3 0 FRENCH INNSi 29 Francs* Cents, Ordinary Vvine, i. e. the usual wine of the country 2 0 Ditto, first qualify 2^ 0 Extraordinary wine — Champagne, Claret, &c. 6 0 Lodging 2 0 Breakfast and eggs 1 80 Ditto, without eggs 1 50 The breakfast includes tea or coffee, meat. See. The Inns of Calais will give him a specimen of the Inns in France. Every thing is showy and gaudy, but the comfort of the visitor is totally forgotten. Large mir- rors extend from" the ceiling almost to the ground. The paper-hangings are beautiful ; while the floor is not only destitute of carpets, but is frequently composed of cold and chilling bricks, or octagonal tiles ; and the spacious dismal chimney presents not the vestige of a grate. The very acm6 of luxury for which the tourist can hope is a narrow piece of carpeting surrounding the bed, and this only in houses of superior accommodation, and in the depth of winter ; and even this he must not expect, should the floor unfortunately be polished. MODE OF LIVING AT INNS. One of the first concerns with the English traveller’ when he arrives at his Inn, is to order a substantial and comfortable meal. He will now find himself in anew world, to which he will not immediately be able to ac- commodate his taste. If he is particular in ordering his breakfast, he may obtain excellent coffee, or tolerable tea, and new-laid eggs ; but Frenchmen usually break- fast on meal, to which they add a liberal potation of or- dinary wine. At dinner our tourist will be convinced that he is in- deed in France. His roast meat, if he is fortunate enough to find a roast joint on the board, will be totally destitute of the true English flavour. The boiled meat had, many hours before, parted with all its nutricious juices to tbrni 30 FRENCH INNS. the soup. The various diminutive dishes of meat which garnish the table will not a little exercise his ingenuity to divine whether they are composed of beef, mutton, or veal ; and he will only be able to ascertain that they are sufficiently warmed with spices, and somewhat too much flavoured wdth sorrel and garlic. If, misled by the name, he should order a “ Bifteck naturel, or a I’Anglaise,” he will find it perfectly destitute of fat, devoid of the natu- ral flavour of the meat, and sadly inferior to the favourite and delicious viand, of wffiich the Englishman is never tired. Whatever vegetables are served up, they are fre- quently accompanied with sorrel, or disguised by it. It is the favourite sauce of the French. It must, however, be acknowledged, that, except our tourist be more fas- tidious than a traveller should be, he will soon become reconciled to the French mode of cookery. If the French are skilful in disguising every dish, they likewise possess the art of rendering them palatable; and, out of the immense variety which every bill of fare contains, the stranger will select many articles on which he can dine. With some of the accompaniments of the dinner-table, however, the traveller will not be so easily satisfied. He will frequently miss the cleanliness, and attention to comfort, whichTiave habitually endeared to him his own domestic board. In almost every inn he will be present- ed with a silver fork ; but, should his dinner consist of a dozen dishes, he will be expected to use the same knife unwiped. Ere he begins his meal, that knife will often appear as if many a week had passed since a solitary at- tempt had been made to restore its natural polish ; it will likewise usually be of the rudest and meanest manu- facture, and form a strange contrast with the silver fork which accompanies it. There is scarcely a good table- knife to be met with at any French inn. Should he ask for mustard, he will be presented with an unaccountable looking mixture of mustard, vinegar, &c. offensive at once to the eye, the smell, and the taste. Should he look in the salt-cellar, he will perceive a mingled mass of salt, dirt, and dust, from which he will turn with disgust. Even in these articles the French appear to feel an utter indifference for every thing simple and natural. CALAIS. 31 During his short abode, at Calais, the traveller will acknowledge the accuracy of these remarks ; and as he advances into the interior, and at his arrival at Paris, he will find them literally true. In Calais, however, and for some posts on the road to Paris, the concourse of Englishmen has been so great, that the inn-keepers are gradually adopting our mode of cookery, and the habits of our best hotels. The first question which a traveller is asked, even before he orders his dinner, is, “ what wine he chooses I would recommend him, if he be on a frugal plan, to order Beaume or Burgogne, (see the bill of fare,) which are very pleasant wines, and in general use. Whatever wine he selects will not be decanted, but brought to him in the black bottle. He will be supplied with a small tumbler and a decanter of water, to which the traveller is not at first easily reconciled. The Frenchman, how- ever, finds it convenient, for the wine and water form his usual table beverage. The dessert is brought before the cloth is removed ; and, in the true French style, the cheese, the salad, and the dessert, are eaten from the same plate. The stranger who is invited to a private house should not forget that whatever wine is drunk, is taken during dinner. On retiring to another room, a glass of liqueur is served up, or small cups of strong and delicious coffee. In due time a regular tea, or a second supply of coffee, is introduced. The Devon or Herefordshire man, who remembers when cider formed the usual beverage of those coun- ties, will not dislike the thin wine, which in France is the substitute for beer, and which is included in the re- gular charge for the table dlibte. The traveller may have tolerable French beer ; but English porter, which he may have excellent and uuadulrerated, will cost him nearly two francs per bottle. Description of Calais. Calais is situated in the department of Pas de Calais, and protected by a strong citadel. After enduring a siege 32 CALAIS. of eleven months, it surrendered to Edward III. in 1347. It was retaken in 1557 by the duke of Guise, and again bombarded by the English in 1696, without sustaining much damage. The fortifications are good, but it is more indebted for its defence to its situation, being built in the middle of marshes, which may at all times be over- flowed at the approach of an enemy. The town is among the few which, from the commencement of the Revolu- tion, has not been subjected to any scenes of carnage. It contains about seven thousand inhabitants. The town is principally built of stone, yet the houses have a mean and dirty appearance. Most of the streets terminate in the market-place, which is not uninteresting when thronged on the Saturday by the neighbouring peasantry. Neither the town-hall nor the church possess any thing worthy of particular notice ; and the traveller will lose his time if he be seduced by the rhetoric of his guide to ascend the tower of the latter, to enjoy the superb pro- spect which will there be presented to his view. When he has painfully wound his way to the top, and given his franc to the specious orator, he will perceive nothing but a dreary expanse of country, relieved indeed by a sea-view, yet infinitely inferior to that which he has so lately admired at Dover. The only interesting object at Calais is the Pier ; and this derives its interest from the continual bustle oc- casioned by the endless succession of travellers, eager to gaze on the wonders of the Continent, and from the pillar erected to commemorate the return of Louis XVIIIth. from England. Opposite to this pillar is shewn the first impression of his foot on landing. Should the traveller be detained at Calais during the night, he will remember that he is in a fortified town, and that the gates are regularly shut in the winter at five, and in the summer at nine o’clock in the evening. A small gratuity, however, to the keeper of the Porte Royale, which is on the land-side of the town, will pro- cure him admission at any hour of the night. The tourist should likewise be informed, that at the greater number of the inns on the road, and even in MODES OF TRAVELLING. 33 Paris, the French are not very careful in airing their linen. They are accustomed to live so much in the open air, and are so careless with regard to a thousand little circumstances inseparably connected with the English- man’s domestic comfort, that the traveller’s health will be frequently endangered, unless he is perpetually on the alert. The tourist may wile away a few of the hours of the evening at the theatre Rue de Thionville. The house is neat, and some of the actors far above mediocrity. It is open on Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday. The performance commences at half-past five, and is usually over at nine. The prices of admission are. Balcony 3 francs. Second balcony 18 sous. First boxes 36 ditto Pit 13 ditto. In the Faubourg St. Pierre are public gardens, to which the middle and lower classes resort in the evening, and amuse themselves with dancing. The stranger will be much amused by looking on the happy groups. He will not indeed behold the perfect original of that lovely picture which Goldsmith has drawn, nor will he find all that he expected from Sterne’s beautiful account of the Grace after Supper ; but he will see much more grace, and less rudeness, than he would ever find in an assembly of English mechanics and rustics. TRAVELLING IN FRANCE. Having exhausted the little that is worth seeing in Calais, our traveller is anxious to continue his journey. There are three modes of travelling in France; in pri- vate carriages ( voitures ), a hired carriage, ( chaise de paste), the public diligence, and the new coaches on the English plan. They who have families, and possess good strong tra- velling carriages, will find it infinitely more comfortable, RATES OF POSTING. 34 ^ and considerably cheaper, to take them to Calais or Dieppe, than to hire a chaise de poste at either of these places. The freight from Dover to Calais, or Brighton to Dieppe, is far from exorbitant. Qn landing the carriage at either of these towns, the traveller will be required to deposit an impost of 35 per cent, on the estimated value; but this will be punctually repaid on his return. Or, if he should quit France by any other route, the receipt, which will be given him at the custom-house of Calais or Dieppe, will enable him to claim the original sum without difficulty at the last station of the revenue officers. It is on many accounts advisable for the traveller to leave his own horses at home, and to proceed through France with post-horses. As all English carriages have poles, it will be advisable, if the company does not exceed three in number, to have their poles replaced by shafts, by which means one-third of the expense of posting is saved ; for, instead of four horses and two postilions, they will only pay for three horses and one postilion. If more than three persons travel in the same cabriolet, or liraoniere, the post-master charges the travellej 40 or 45 sous for each of the three horses, instead of charging for the fourth horse, which is never employed. All the arrangements for posting are simple, and usually attended to with the most scrupulous exactness. (See the Table.) The whole of it is completely in the hands of Government. There is no competition on the road, and they who arrive first, are uniformly first accommodated. A book is published by authority, containing every route through France, alphabetically arranged ; the precise distance of every place ; and the sum to be paid to the post-master and the postilion. The principal difficulty which the traveller would otherwise encounter is the demand of a whole, or half, or a quarter of a post, in addition to the regular distance, on entering or leaving some towns. These are all mentioned in the book just referred to, which is entitled, Etat de Pastes Genhaux. A translation of it may be had of the Publisher of this RATES OF POSTING. 35 Wo,rk ; and, with such a guide, the tourist cannot be subject to the least imposition. As a descriptive Itine- rary of France, Reichard’s Work will be preferred. The distances are calculated by French posts, which are nearly five miles and a half each ; but, within a few posts of Paris, or any large towns, these are reduced to five miles. The regular charge by authority is one franc and 50 cents per post for each horse, and 15 sous to the posti- lion ; but as the expedition of the traveller, and much of his convenience, depend on keeping the driver in good humour, it is usual to give him a trifle more. The following is the last Ordonnance on the subject of posting : — Louis, by the Grace of God, King of France and Navarre j On the report of our Minister of Finance, The Council of State having taken the same into con- sideration, We have decreed, and do decree, as fol- lows : — I. The price of post-horses shall be paid by travellers according to the new regulation in the tariff annexed. II. The ancient regulations shall be observed in every thing in which they do not differ from this new tariff. III. The actual price of the transport of mails and King^s messengers is continued. • 36 RATES OF POSTING. TABLE OF THE PRICE OF POST-HORSES, CABRIOLETS, CARRIAGES WITH TWO WHEELS. Number of Persons. Number of Horses. Price of each Horse per Post. Sum total. fr. cents. fr. cents . 1 2 1 50 3 3 1 50 4 50 3 4 1 50 6 4 5 1 50 7 50 LIMONIERES, CARRIAGES WITH FOUR WHEELS. Number of Persons. Number of Horses. Price of each Horse per Post. Sum total. fr. cents. fr. cents. 1 & 2 3 1 50 4 50 3 4 1 50 6 4 5 1 50 7 50 5 6 1 50 9 6 r 1 50 10 50 BERLIN ES. Number of Persons. Number of Horses. Price of each Horse per Post. Sum total. fr. cents. fr. cents. 1 & 2 4 1 50 6 3... 5 1 50 7 50 4 6 1 50 9 5 7 1 50 10 50 6 8 1 50 12 ' 7 9 1 50 13 50 No. 1. A proportionate Calculation of what the Travellers pay to the Post-Masters. No. 2. I A proportionate Calculation of what the Travellers pay to the Post-Boys, their Guides. DISTANCES. Kuailier of PostUioDS, aotl tLe Prices. 1 postil. 1 2 postil. 3 postil. 4 postil. 1 6 postil, j 6 postil. | 7 postil. 1 8 pOStU.r i piwt Otr. 19c Ofr. 38C Ofr. 67c. Ofr. 76c. Ofr. 93c Ifr. I4c 1 33c. 1 Ifr.i 61c. 5 post Ofr. S8c Ofr. 7«c Ifr. 14c, Ifr. S2c. Ifr. OOc 2fr. 28c ~r fi6c. iifr] iZ { post . . Ofr. Stic Ifr. Wc Ifr. OJr. 2fr. 34c. 2fr. 80c Sir. Stk 3 92c. 1 4fr. 4^ 1 post . . U post . ij post . Ofr. 76c Ifr. 60c 2fr. 25C. 3fr. oOc. Sfr. ?5c 4fr. 50c. 6 26c., pfr. OOc. Ofr. 94c Ifr. 88c 2fr. 82c. 3fr. 76c. 4fr. 70c 6fr. 64c 6 6Hd Ifr. 13c 2b. 28c Sfr. SUc. 4fr. 62c.. 6fr. 66c 6fr. 78c 7f 91^ [Ofri ST 11 post . Ifr. 31c. 2fr. 02c Sfr. 93c. Sfr. 34c. 6fr. 66c. 7fr. «6c 9f 17c.| lOfr. 48c. 2 posts . Ifr. 60 r. Sfr. ;ooc 4rr. 60c. Cfr. OOc. 7fr. 60c. Ofr. OOc lOf 60c| ’,2fr. ooe 21 posts . Ifr. C9c. 3fr. 38r 6fr. Tc. 6fr. 76c. Sfr. 456. Olr. 14f Ilf 83c.| I3fr. 52c. 2* posts . Ifr. hSc. 3fr. 7Cc, 5fr. 64c. 7fr. 62c. 9fr. 40c. Ifr. 28c. 13f 16c.| 15?^ 4q. 21 possts . 2fr. 7c. 4rr. 14c. • 4fr. 52c. Cfr. 78c. Ofr. 4C. llfr. SUc. Sfr. 5(ic. 1£L 3i posts . 2.r. tile. 5fr. 28c. 4fr. 70c. 171 -^1 lOfr. 60c. 31 posts . 2fr. 83c, 6ft, CCc. 8fr. 490. llfr. S2C. I41r. 15c. Ofr. fl8c I9f 64c. 22fr. 64c. 4 Sfr. 00c. ofr. 600.1 91>. OOo.llSfr. 00c. I6fr. OOc. ISfr. OOc. aifr. ooc.li 24fr. OOc. LAWS RELATIVE TO POSTING. 37 A child of six years old, and less, shall not he con- sidered as a passenger; two children of less than six years shall be considered equal to one passenger. Every carriage may be charged with one portmanteau, whether it be entire or in two parts, and one mail. Small carriages, with four wheels, known by the name of Spanish chariots, are considered as cabriolets, when they contain but two persons. Chariots which contain more than two persons enter into the class-of limonieres when they have a shaft, and into that of berlines when they have a pole. The regulations concerning the 3d and 4th horses shall continue to be observed, but neither can be demajided, except actually yoked to the carriage. IV. The Minister of Finance is charged with the execution of the present Ordonnance, which will be inserted in the bulletin of laws. (Signed) Louis. If to this is added the following summary of the laws of posting, and the annexed table of the traveller’s ex- penses at each post, he will be possessed of every requi» site information. LAWS RELATIVE TO POSTING. None but post-masters commissioned, by government are permitted to furnish horses. The post-master shall constantly reside at or near the post-house. No post-master can hire a postilion without a certifi- cate of good behaviour. Travellers are entreated to enter every complaint which they may have against the postilion or master in a book which is kept at each post-house, and regularly inspected by the director-general. The post-master is answerable for any accident which may occur from the carelessness of the postilion, or restiveness of the horses. Travellers are accommodated in the exact order in which they or their avant-couriers may arrive. 38 THE CABRIOLET. Every traveller hiring a saddle-horse must be accom- panied by a postilion, to serve him as a guide. One postilion may conduct three travellers j but, if there is a fourth, two postilions must be hired. The charge is one franc and fifty centimes per post for every horse, and seventy-five centimes for each postilion. Every traveller may oblige the postilion to carry his portmanteau, if it does not exceed SOlhs. in weight. No postilion shall exact more than the sum fixed by law, or insult the passengers, under pain of such punish- ment as the director shall infiict. No carriage shall be compelled to take more than 140lbs. of luggage. The price of posting shall always be paid in advance. No carriage shall pass another on the road, unless some accident happen to that which goes before. Each post shall be run in the space of an hour. No traveller shall force or maltreat the horses under the penalty of making full restitution for the injury which he may do. All turnpikes, and dues on the road, shall be paid by the traveller. CABRIOLET. If the traveller is accompanied by his family, or wishes to pursue his journey perfectly at his ease, or with his own particular party, and has left his carriage on the other side of the water, he will hire a cabriolet, or larger carriage. The cabriolet is an uncouth but very convenient vehi- cle, running on two wheels. It is surrounded on the inside with a great number of pockets, and on each side is a comfortable pillow. It will conveniently accommo- date two persons. It opens in front and has a small window on each side, but it will be necessary for the traveller carefully to examine if it be w'eather-tight before he hires it. On the arrival of the traveller in Paris, the cabriolet is sent to the Remise, where it stands fifteen days at his command, and he may within that time return in it to Calais, without additional expense. Tiiese vehicles may be hired at almost any price, ac- THE DILIGENCE, 39 cording to their appearance and convenience; hut the usual charge for a comfortable cabriolet, from Calais to Paris, is about four guineas. The traveller must not give precisely what is asked him. The English post-chaise is unknown in France. The hiring of the carriage and the postage of the horses, are two different affairs, and in different hands. At any of the inns in Calais the traveller may be furnished with a commodious cabriolet, in which he will proceed the whole of his journey. If the traveller is accompanied by a friend, and does not regard a little extraordinary expense, I would strongly recommend this mode of conveyance. He is fully master of his time ; he may stop where he pleases; he is not compelled to travel by night, and he has a full view of the country through which he passes. If a party of gentlemen are careful in making their bargain beforehand, and will fee the drivers liberally, the strict laws of posting will be often relaxed in their favour, and four or five of them may occupy a handsome carriage, drawn by three horses ; the expense of which will not exceed that of the common diligence. DILIGENCE. The French diligence is a most curious and unique machine : it is a strange compound of the English stage waggon and coach ; and it singularly possesses all the conveniences of each without their defects. It contains six, eight, or ten passengers inside, according to its size; and in front is what is called the cabriolet of the dili- gence for outside passengers, with leathern covers, like the body of our one-horse chaises, to defend both the head and legs from the weather. These seats, which hold three persons, are the most pleasant part of the vehicle, and being little elevated above the springs, there is scarcely a possibility of the carriage being over- turned. The conductor forms one of the party of the cabriolet ; but if the weather be fine, he will go on the top of the diligence. The inside passengers are seated completely at their ease, free from the torture to which the unfortunate inmates of many of our stage coaches arc frequently doomed; but E 2 40 THE DILIGENCE. the smallness of the windows, and the manner in which the seats are arranged, prevent them from enjoying much view of the country. The fare from Calais to Paris is fifty francs for the inside, and forty-five for the cabriolet. A conductor is attached to each machine ; his proper business is to take care of the luggage, and this duty he performs with the strictest integrity. When the travel- ler's portmanteau or parcels have once been consigned to him, every fear with regard to their safety may be dis- missed. To this important duty another is usually attached. He presides at the dinner-table of the passen- gers, and does full justice to what is provided. He accom- panies the diligence through the whole of the journey, and at the close of it expects a gratuity of five or six francs. The driver likewise expects about six sous at every post, but it is usual to leave this to the conductor, and pay him at the end of the journey. Fourteen pounds of luggage are allowed, and twenty- one francs per cwt. is charged for the overplus. I have already stated, that the office of the diligence is at Meurice’s Hotel, Rue de la Prison. It starts from Calais at six o’clock in the morning, and at the same hour in the evening; and, travelling night and day, reaches Paris in about forty-four hours. The manner of yoking and driving the horses will ap- pear singular to the tourist. In travelling post, one horse runs between two heavy shafts, attached to the car- riage ; on another horse, lashed to his side, with scarcely any harness, and only fastened to the vehicle by some paltry ropes, sits the driver. Six horses are generally yoked to the diligence. The postilion sits on the near shaft-horse, and governs the leaders more by the sound of his voice, and the long whip which he bears, than by the simple cords which serve him as reins. The leaders seem scarcely to belong to the diligence, and shew the pas- sengers that they are under little restraint, by nume- rous playful but to him terrifying deviations and prancings. Sometimes they have no reins, and even where these appendages to the equipage (which the Eng- lishman has been accustomed to imagine absolutely ne- ROUTE TO PARIS. 41 cessary, and on which he f)Iaces his principal and sole dependence) are found, the French Jehu scarcely vouch- safes to use them. The tourist, however, may dismiss every apprehension ; the horses understand every motion of the driver’s whip, and every tone of his voice ; they are under perfect command, and an accident in the Paris Diligence is a thing absolutely unknown. ROUTE FROM CALAIS TO PARIS. NEW ROAD, BY ABBEVILLE AND BEAUVAIS. Our traveller having decided on the mode of convey, ance, we will describe his route from Calais to the French metropolis. » Buisson.. Posts. .... li Miles. 7 Fur. 6 Marquise . . . . , 13 0 Boulogne ... If 2 Samer 30 5 Cormont 36 0 Montreuii. . . . . ... H 43 7 Nampont ... H 52 6 Mouvion 62 7 Abbeville 70 4 Airaines... . . . . ... 4 83 0 Poix 96 6 Granvilliers. .. ... If 106 4 Marseille ... H ll3 4 Beauvais 126 0 Noailles 135 6 Puiseux 144 0 Beaumont 151 0 Moisselles 159 2 Saint Denis. . . ... ll 167 4 Paris 173 0 The traveller quits Calais by the Port Royale, and passing on the left, the canals of St. Omer, Oravelines, an 1 Dunkirk, he enters on an avenue of trees which con- uucts him to the Faubourg St. Pierre. This is an exten- li a 42 ROUTE TO TARIS. sive and populous suburb, and the resort of the middlt^ and lower classes of the inhabitants of Calais, in the evening and on Sunday. As soon as he quits the suburb, the road to Paris suddenly turns to the right, and brings him to Fort Nieulay, a regular fortification, which de- fends the approach to Calais on the land side. The road is continhed for more than a mile and a half by the side of numerous canals and sluices, by means of which the surrounding country could be completely inundated, and the approach of an enemy cut otF. The traveller next arrives at La Chauss^e, a scattered village, which skirts the road for more than a mile. He then passes under a hill with a windmill on the top, and about four miles and a half from Calais ascends another hill, from the summit of which he sees Coquelle on his left ; and behind him a noble sea view, embracing the whole of the Downs, with the clitFs of Dover in the dis- tant perspective. He here crosses a Roman road, leading to Peuplingue on the right. After proceeding a mile, he climbs another hill, from which he sees Frethun and Coquelle on his left, and Peuplingue on his right. Descending the hill, he leaves Sangette-sur-Mer on his right, and soon begins to mount a steeper and longer hill. As he ascends he sees Wailly, Merk, Guines, Ar- dres, and Boningue-le-Calais on his left, and Bas-Buisson on the right. On the summit of the hill, commanding a yet finer view of the places just mentioned, stands the post-house of Haut Buisson. On the other side of the hill, a different and equally interesting prospect is presented. On the left are Wardenthmi, and Beauregard, and on the right Ramsau, St. Inglevert, and Everlinghen. A few unin- teresting houses are in the valley, and the traveller soon ascends another hill, from which a prospect not inferior to either of the former lies before him. He is now on the summit of the grand chain of mountains which runs through the whole of France. On his left is the tower of Collemberg and Bainghen, with Calais behind him. On the right is Basinghen Leubringhen, and at -a distance the ocean, with the newly-erected tower of tlOUTE TO PARIS, 43 Boulogne. As he proceeds along the summit of the hill, new views of the surrounding country open upon him, and a little before the descent he sees Dubringhen, Rousberg and Basinghen, on his right, with Leulinghen on his left, the hill of Boursin more distant, and still far* ther on, the tower of Collemberg. The descent is now rapid and steep, and in the bottom of the valley he crosses the bridge and rivulet of Bla- court. He immediately climbs another hill, from the top of which he sees on the left Leulinghen ^ and almost behind him Hames, and on the right Dubringhen, Rous- berg, and Basinghen. Passing Rousberg mill, and ar- riving at the opposite side of the hill, a great number of villages lie before him, and diversify the scene on the right, while on the left is Marquise mill, and a nearer view of the hill of Boursin. The quarries of Basinghen are on his right, those of Ferques on his left, and before him the interesting village of Marquise. The post-hoiise is on the right hand, and on the left are two inns, called the Stag and the Cardinal’s Cap. The church is at the extremity of the village on the left. A mile beyond Marquise, the traveller crosses- the river Selacque, and winding round the base of a hill on the right ascends another hill, near the summit of which he sees Ferques, Hardinghem, and Collemberg-tower, on the left, while the hill which he has just passed pleas- ingly terminates the view on the right. Arriving on the top, the view beautifully opens on the right, and Hau- denbergh, Basinghen, and Ambleteuse, are seen. On descending the hill, the road lies through an avenue of trees, which soon branches oft' to a pretty farm-house, on the left. The road then passes through the village of Wacquinghem, with Offretun on the left. A little rivulet is next crossed ; soon after which a steep hill, presents itself, from the summit of which Maninghen is seen on the left ; Beuvrequera and Menendelle on the right; with the ocean once more bounding the prospect. St. Gan is seen on the left, a little before the descent of the hill. The road then lies through a pleasing avenue of trees to Wimille. VVIMILLE is prettily situated by the side of a const BOULOGNE. derable lake, formed by the river Wimereux. It is interesting?, from containing the remains of the aeronauts Rosier and Pilatre, who were interred here, near the spot on which they perished. A monument, representing a balloon bursting, is erected close by the road. After travelling about a mile, a hill is climbed, whose summit presents, at high water, some very beautiful views of the sea, on the right, and a well-cultivated country, studded with farm-houses, on the left. The village of Pont d’ Amiens is at the foot of the hill, be- tween it and the sea. A succession of hills now offers as far as Boulogne. These give various and interesting views of the sea, and the Port of Boulogne. The second of them, on which are two windmills, commands the whole of the upper and lower town, the harbour, andthetower of Napoleon. An avenue of trees now conducts to Boulogne. BOULOGNI'l, is a town of very great antiquity, and is said to have been built by Julius Caesar, and that he sailed from this port on his expedition against the Britons. The only vestige of Roman antiquity now remaining, is a tower, built in the reign of Caligula. It is divided into the higher and lower towns. The street which connects them is called Rue Grande. It is very steep, and the view down it is much admired. The traveller first passes through the higher town, the ap- proach to which, from Wimille, is very pleasing. The walls of the higher town command a noble view of the lower town, the harbour, and the ocean. Immediately under stands the lower town, with the mouth of the little river ITane. The object most worthy of the traveller’s attention is the tower, which was commenced by Buonaparte, ta commemorate his intended victories over the English, and which now remains a striking monument of his ambition and his folly. Little more than the scaffolding was completed ; and around it lies many a block of the finest marble, brought, at immense expense, from Mar- quise. A gratuity of a few sous will admit the stranger to the interior of the tower. The view from the sum- ROUTE FROM BOULOGNE, 45 mit, extending as far as the eye can reach, both on the land and sea-side, is deservedly admired. Should the traveller remain at Boulogne during the evening, he will probably visit the beautiful walks round the ramparts, and the promenade on the sand at low water. A pretty theatre, open on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, will likewise afford him some amusement. The best inns is L’Hotel d’Angleterre, Rue de VEau^ kept by an Englishwoman of the name of Parker. The charges are reasonable, and the accommodations are more English than are usually found in the French hotels. The diligence stops at the Hotel de France, Rue Royale, in its way to Paris, and on its return to Calais. Boulogne contains 13,000 inhabitants, and, during peace, carries on a considerable commerce with England, but principally contraband, in brandy, wine, and lace. The diligence returns again through the gate by which it entered ; and, skirting the high town, passes through the Port Royale, at the extremity of the lower town. The cabriolet, or chaise-de-poste, does not enter the town . Quitting Boulogne, the road leads through the hamlets of Capelette and Ostrohove, with Outreau to the right ; and, on descending the hill, the villa of Arclin on the left. It then crosses the bridge of Rintaudalle, and ascends a hill, from which is a view of the sea, and the English coast. Vertevoye and Berquen are on the right, and in the next valley is the hamlet of St. Leonard. At the end of the village is a brook ; a little beyond which the pretty tower of St. Etienne is to be seen on the right. Another brook is then crossed, close to which is a farm- house, whence an avenue of trees conducts to the village of Pont de Brique. Manihen is here on the right, and Eschingen on the left. Two other brooks are soon crossed, and the road is almost without interruption, lined with fruit-trees for more than three miles. Beyond the second brook is a small hill. A narrow valley succeeds, through which runs a rivulet. This is followed by a loftier hill, with a paved way on the top, and a gentleman’s house on the left. 46 ROUTE TO PARIS. At the bottom rnus the river Quehen, and on the right is the village of Isque. xAnolher hill immediately follows, from the summit of which the church of Isque forms a pleasing object on the right ; while in the distant per- spective is again seen the tower of St. Etienne. On the left is an old encampment, attributed to the aboriginal inhabitants of the country. After descending the hill, and passing a rivalet, the road lies through a wood, and near the village of Cauchie ; and, after passing the river Thane, a fine avenue of trees crosses the road, through which Hedin I’Abbe is seen on the left. The hamlet of Vergeneau lies on the ascent of the next hill, on the top of which is an avenue of trees, conducting to a well-built villa on the left, and, a little farther on, another leading to Hesdigneul, on the right. The tower is an interesting object, amidst the trees. On the left, is the village of Brucquedal. Crossing a narrow valley, with a little river running through it, another hill immediately succeeds, from the summit of which, the Downs are seen behind, on the right, and the town of Sanier on a lofty hill in front. At the descent of the hill, Tinghen is on the right ; a rivulet then succeeds, and passing another hill, and by Montpourg and Basseville, with Verlingtun on the right, the traveller arrives at the Park of Carly-sur-Liane. He skirts this for half a mile, and crossing the river Liane, and leaving Questrecques on the left, he sees, on the ascent of the next hill, an avenue to the right, through which he has a view of Carly House. On the top of the hill, Samer appears to much advantage, crowning the summit of the next declivity. On descending the hill, he passes close to Hourqnet, and over the river of that name. The road then winds among some trees, and leaving Merbecq on the left, soon begins to ascend the hill of Samer. The traveller will pause about midway up the ascent, and look back on the pleasing prospect. On his right, he will see Questrecques, and on the left, Verlingtun, Carly House, and once more, and for the last time, the pretty tower of St. Etienne. On the summit of the hill is Samer. The situation of SAMER is commanding ; and were the ROUtE TO PARIS, 47 siinounding country more enclosed, and better wooded, the view from it would be exceedingly picturesque. The tourist will now begin to enter on the peculiar scenery of France. Hitherto he has travelled along the coast, and has not been able tg form any correct view of the general features of the country. The scenery of France is on a larger scale than that of England. The vales are not so abrupt ; and the hills form more rounded and extensive swells. The country is rarely divided by hedges, as in England, but presents one unbroken and uninterrupted (expanse. The trees, instead of being scattered over the fields, are either collected in clumps round the villages, or form large w oods and forests. The roads are usually bordered with fruit-trees or elms, and often in double or triple row's. They are wide, straight, and usually paved in the middle, like the streets of an English town. The scientific agri- culturist will perhaps find fault with the husbandry of the French, but he will see very little uncultivated and untilled land, except in the immediate vicinity of Paris. The villages generally consist of a row of houses on each side of the road, which are kept neatly white- washed, although they bear evident marks of the poverty of the inhabitants. No garden is attached to them ; no little piggery, or shed for poultry ; and it may be mentioned, as the characteristic peculiarity of the French villages, except in the neighbourhood of Paris, that there are no houses adapted for the residence of the middle classes of society. One or two chateaux occupy the most conspi- cuous parts of the hamlet, and these are often seen in a melancholy state of dilapidation. The remainder of the village is inhabited by a peculiar class of landholders, j who occupy each a few roods, which they purchased at I a tenth of their value during the Revolution ; and by a i! disproportionate number of persons, who are too idle to ‘ work, and are destitute of every means of subsistence. I The poor laws are unknown in France. No public provision is made for age, sickness, or misfortune ; it is not therefore surprising, that the number of mendicants should be great. The natural frivolity of the French character contributes to increase this evil. The common 48 SCENERY OF FRANCE. people live merely for the passing day ; they lay up no provision for the future ; and when age or misfortune overtakes them, they have no resource but the charity of individuals. On leaving Saraer, the traveller descends a steep hill, and finds himself between the hamlets of Lesdres and St. Madelaine. He next crosses a rivulet, and passes an avenue of trees on the left, leading to a country-house, which is soon afterward visible from the road. One or two houses now denote the hamlet of Vernicourt. He then crosses a river, and traverses a pleasant wood, and the hamlet of Panem. This river winds, and recrosses the road at the distance of about half a mile. Two water-mills are here seen on the right, close by the village of Tingry, La Haye-Dincourt is immediately beyond, on the right. The road now winds up a steep hill, on the ascent of which, a little before it skirts the forest of Tingry, a noble prospect presents itself. Samer is a prominent and interesting object behind, crowning the summit of a steep mountain. Tingry is on the right, and Sacequelle on the left. The hamlet and wood of Vertevoye are next passed on the left, and the traveller continues to ascend. Fresh beauties open to his view at every step. Numerous pretty villages successively present themselves ; Hubersen, Hu- dan, Hallinghen, Aremique, Laere, and Rollet, on the left ; and Duversan on the right ; and in front the town of Cormont. When he is arrived at the very summit, the tourist will be disposed to pause, and leisurely exa- mine the various features of the scene. The descent is rapid. At the bottom is the river Dordonne, and a little beyond the post-house of Cormont. Nothing of interest now presents itself for two miles ; Bermeulles is passed on the left, and Longvilliers on the right. A hill is then ascended, and the road enters the forest of Longvilliers, which it traverses for two miles. When the traveller again emerges into the open country, an extensive prospect of much interest lies before him. Before him, at the distance of four miles, is Montreuil, ro- mantically situated on the summit of a rock. On the right, two openings between the surrounding eminences present MONTREUIL. 49 him with a pleasing view of the Channel ; the hamlet of Brexen lies, likewise, on the right; and on the left, and almost behind him, are the villages of Bimont and Roe. A valley not more than a mile in breadth brings him to the ascent of another hill, from different points of which he again sees the ocean at the distance of nine miles, while on his right are the villages of Feae and Atin, on his left Etrelles and Etaples, and before him Montrenil. On descending the hill, he crosses two branches of the river Etrelles, and soon enters a suburb of Montreuil, called Neuville-sous-Montreuil. After passing a marshy piece of land nearly a mile in length, a bridge over the Canche introduces him to the lower town of Montreuil ; another branch of the same river is then passed, and a steep ascent brings him to Montreuil. MONTREUIL contains 3500 inhabitants, and is sup- posed to be nearly impregnable. It is accessible only by two gates ; one on the Boulogne, and another on the A b- beville side. The name of Montreuil frequently occurs in the history of France ; and the ruins of many a stately edifice are yet to be seen. The remains of the ancient church of Notre-Dame will particularly attract attention. The town forms a miserable contrast with the beauty of its situation. The streets are narrow and dirty, and an appearance of poverty pervades the place. The dili- gence changes at the Hotel de France, in Grande-Rue. The post-house is in the same street. The aspect of the country now changes, and becomes barren and flat. For several miles from Montreuil little interesting occurs. Sorrus is passed on the right, two miles from Montreuil, and immediately afterwards Petit- Campigneulle. A rising ground in this part of the road discovers both these villages, with Montreuil behind, and the sea about seven miles and a half distant. Cam- pigneulle-le-Grand next succeeds on the right : and at three miles from Montreuil the traveller enters on the forest of Wailly, which he traverses about a mile ; in the midst of it is the hamlet of the same name. Soon after he emerges from it he again sees Montreuil behind him. The road is now skirted by woods, and varied by little hills ; and thre^ miles farther on is Nampont St. Firmin, F so ROUTE TO PARIS. with the village of Noyelle-sur-Mer, close on the right, and Montigny a little farther off. A rivulet is then crossed ; and soon afterwards the river Anthie ; beyond which is Nampont St. Martin, which contains the post- house. On quitting Nampont, the traveller ascends a steep hill, which commands the whole of the village at its foot, Montigny on the right, and the sea at a distance. A mile farther on is another hill, whence the traveller will see the ocean, and Callen and Hemancourt on his right, with Rue at a distance : Avesne appears on his left. Beyond another hill is Veron ; half a mile from which begins the forest of Cressy, a name connected with one of the brightest pages of English history. The road passes through it for three miles, leaving Yillers and Arry on the right, and Renier on the left. Two branches of the river Maye are next crossed, with St. Gandoulf on the right. Close to the river is Bernay, pleasantly situated among the woods. A steep ascent is rewarded by a bold and extensive view ; including Bernay behind ; the forest of Cressy on the left, which, under various names, conti- nues to skirt the road for several miles ; and, on the right, Arry, Rue, St. Valery, and a farewell prospect of the ocean. An hotel built on this spot is, with pro- priety, called Belle-Vue. An avenue of trees com- mences at Bernay, and reaches, with little interruption, to Abbeville. Two miles further on is Forest-Moutier ; and the road being still continued through a country thickly studded with wood, passes over a hill, whence are seen Forest- Moutier, Rue, St. Pierre-Abbly, and Noiivion. Half a mile from hence the road winds round a park, and enters the pretty village of Nouvion. This place strongly re- sembles an Knglish village, with a little garden attached to every cottage. The country now begins again to improve, and is plea- singly diversified with woods and vineyards. In the ap- pearance of the latter tlie traveller w ill possibly experi- ence some disappointment. An English plantation of raspberries far exceeds the vines in height. At a mile and a half from Nouvion the road finally ABBEVILLE, 51 emerges from the forest of Cressy, near Autite, Cailly, and Title having been passed on the right. Many pretty clusters of wood, however, succeed. A little beyond Autite, on the left, are the pleasure- grounds of Mr. Farey. The house and the church of Autite are seen about half a mile further on. The road next passes by the hamlet of Hantvilliers, and descends into a valley, with Buigney St. Maclon on the right. St. Vallery is likewise to be seen on the right. A hill succeeds, from which Hautvilliers is perceived on the left, and Buigney on the right. Two miles farther on is another hill, whence Abbeville makes a noble ap- pearance. ABBEVILLE is seated on the river Somme, where it divides into several branches, and separates the town into two parts. Its manufactories consist of woollen cloths, coarse linens, sail-cloth, and soap. The front of the church of St. Wilfred, at Abbeville, with its two towers, numberless niches and statues, with all their accompani- ments of fret-work and carving, affords a most beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture in its richest style. Ab- beville contains 18,000 inhabitants. The theatre in the Rue de Larqve is open on Sunday and Thursday. First boxes. ... 33 sous. Second ditto . . 520 sous. Pit 15 sous. The diligence stops at the Bull’s Head, Rue St, Giles. The post-house is in the same street. On leaving Abbeville, the traveller proceeds to Pont Remy, where there are two bridges over the Somme ; thence he goes to Airaines, near the road to which is a remarkable height called Caesar’s Camp. Airaines is a tolerably well-built town, situated on three small rivers; it trades in linseed oil, flax, beechmast, chamomile, hempseed, and nuts. It has several manu- factories of packing and sail-cloth, and numerous oil- mills. The post-house has a good inn. From Airaines the road passes through a valley and over a hill to Arbre-a-Mouches, in front of Warlus, by F2 52 BEAUVAIS, a valley, small wood, and hill to the hamlet of Camp TAmienois, thence to Lincheux, and a little beyond the wood of Croisraiilt reaches. Poix, a market-town, with a post-house and inn. The road from Rouen to Amiens, which communicates with Dieppe by Neufchatel and joins the two Calais roads, crosses this place. Beyond Poix the traveller passes over a barren moun- tain, enters the department of the Somme, crosses the valley and small river Tossac j and a league and a half from it, reaches Grandvilliers, a neat market-town, which has been rendered commercial by its markets and its manufacto- ries of serges and hosiery. It has broad streets which meet in a tolerably large and handsome square. Beyond Grandvilliers are seen fields of corn inter- spersed with groves through which the road passes to Marseilles — to Beaupr4 — to Achy — to St. Omer-en- Chauss^e — to Froissereux, whence a road branches olf to Dieppe, along the river Therain, although not in sight of it; near Notre Dame du Thil to Beauvais. BEAUVAIS is the chief town of the Oise, and is situated on the Therain. It is celebrated for its dyes, bleaching-yards, and springs of mineral water, and has numerous manufactories of cloth, serges, flannels, cop- peras, sulphate of iron, printed calicoes, and woollen cloths. There is likewise a manufactory for tapestry, established in 1664, which is nearly equal to that of the Gobelins. The streets are broad, and some of the houses handsome. The great square, the town-house, and the choir of the cathedral, are worthy of notice. In the interior of this church may be seen the beautiful tomb of Cardinal Forbin, by Causon, and three tapestry hang- ings executed in this town : one of them representing the healing of the paralytic, is considered a fine work. The church of St. Stephen deserves attention on account of its painted windows, the beautiful picture of the car- rying of the cross, and the tomb in relief, supposed to have been a Roman monument. Beauvais has been denominated La Pucelle^ because it has never been taken, although several times besieged. BEAUMONT, 55 A solemn procession, in which the women take prece- dence, is held on the 10th of July to commemorate the bravery of Jeane Hachette, who, assisted by the female part of the inhabitants, compelled the duke of Burgundy to raise the siege of the town in 1472. Beauvais has a theatre and a promenade on the new boulevard. A fair is held here the first Saturday of every month. The principal inns are, the Swan, the Golden Lion, the Crown, the Horse Shoe, and the Hotel d’Angleterre, whence the diligences set out for Rouen. From Beauvais the traveller proceeds through the suburb of St. James, across the river Therain, through Lazare, Warluis, Roye, Noailles, St. Genevieve, La Croix, Ovillers, Puiseux, Chambly, to Beaumont. BEAUMONT is situated on the left bank of the Oise, and trades in corn and flour. The principal objects worthy of notice are the street crossing the market, the clock tower, and the beautiful promenade which over- looks the rich valley of the Oise. A quarter of a league N. E. of Beaumont is a spot generally called the Camp of Caesar, although it exhibits no vestiges of antiquity. ' From Beaumont the road passes through Presles, by several chateaux, and through la Maison Neuve, Mois- selles Poncelle, St. Brice, Pierre P’itte, to St. Denis, for a description of which see the Environs. From St. Denis the traveller crosses the rivulet of Crose, and passing by Belleville, St. Chaumont,and Mont- martre, enters Paris. ROUTE FROM CALAIS TO PARIS, OLD ROAD, THROUGH ABBEVILLE, AMIENS AND CHAN- TILLY. Posts. m. /. From Calais to Abbeville, as at ^ page 41. 5 70 4 Ailly le Haut Clocher 1 *- 78 3 Flixecourt 88 4 Picquigny . . . , 1 94 2 Amiens 1 ^ 102 4 ROUTE TO PARIS. From Calais to Hcbecourt Flers Bretcuil 1^ Wavigny Saint Just .... 1 Clermont (Oise) 2 Lingueville. . . . Chantilly Luzarches .... 1;^ Ecouen . St. Denis, Paris . . . Posts. . 1 1 1 m. /. 108 1 114 3 122 1 128 5 133 5 142 7 149 1 157 0 162 5 169 5 175 5 179 1 For a description of the route as far as Abbeville, see the route from Calais to Paris, through Abbeville and Beauvais. On quitting Abbeville, the road passes over a country, nearly flat, for fifteen miles. Crinquet is first passed, then Moreux on the right; Vanchelle-le-Quesnoy on the left; Epagnette and Epagne, on the right; Moufliers and Bellencour on the left ; Francieres on the right, and Alli6 on the left; two miles beyond which place the tra- veller arrives at Ailly-le-haut-Clocher, where he changes horses. This village is pleasantly situated in the midst of woods ; but the traveller soon arrives again at the open country ; and, after an uninteresting journey of five miles, he passes Ergni6 and Brucamp on the left, Vil- liers on the right, and Jurcamp on the left. These vil- lages are seen at the beginning of the ascent of the first hill. A little farther on Vanchelle-les-Domort is on the left, and Mouflers and Bouchen on the right. Another hill soon succeeds, from the summit of which is an extensive and not uninteresting prospect of the country through which the traveller is about to pass. First on the left is Boutdeville, next Berteaucourt, Vig- nacourt beyond, and at a distance of seven miles, Pic- quigny. On the right is Bourdon- Hangert, and another village. At the bottom of this hill are two branches of the river Berteaucourt, beyond which is the little town of Flixecourt. ROUTE TO PARIS, S3 The situation of Flixeconrtis pleasant; but the town is dirty and badly built. The post-house and the church are on the right hand. After passing L’Etoile on the right, and Vignacourt on the left, with numerous little chateaux, the road crosses a hill, and afterwards the wood of Prieure. At the end of the wood is another interesting view of the country which the traveller is about to visit. Belloy is seen on the left, Picquigny before him ; St, Pierre-de-Gouy, Le Gard, and Bourdon-hangert, are on the right; while the Somme, which traverses the whole of the valley, adds much to the beauty of the view. The road is now cut on the side of the hill, the bend- ings of which it follows until the traveller arrives at an insignihcaut hamlet, called la Chauss6e-sous-Picquigny. He then crosses two rivulets, with St. Pierre-de-Gouy on his right, on the other side of the Somme ; and a view' of Breilly, and a more distant one of Amiens, on the left. He then reaches the post-town of Picquigny, once an im- portant and formidable place, but now little better than a hamlet. The road is continued on the side of the Sormont-hill for several miles, and commands a varied but not very in- teresting prospect of the surrounding country. The only pleasing object is the Somme ; but it evidently flows with a sluggish stream through an almost endless marsh. The first village is Breilly, nearly two miles from Pic- quigny ; at the entrance of it Le Gard and La Chauss6e are still to be seen, with Tirencourt more to the left. A mile beyond is Ailly-sur-Somme ; a little before which, on the opposite side of the river, is an encampment at- tributed to the Romans. From Ailly are to be seen Tar- dieu, St. Sauveur, Lompr6, Montiers, and Dreuil. Passing Tardieu and St. Sauveur, on the other side of the Somme, the traveller arrives at Dreuil, two miles from Ailly. The road now descends from the hill, and is con- tinued over the plain to Montiers, an insignificant vil- lage. Renancourt is passed on the right, and Lompr6 and Berticourt on the left, when the tourist enters tlie suburbs of Amiens, and, in traversing them, crosses three branches of the river Celle ; after which he passes 56 AMIENS. by a favourite promenade of the inhabitants, called L’Autois, and enters the town. AMIENS is the capital of the department of theSomme, formerly Picardy, and an episcopal see. It is a city of very great antiquity. Mention is made of it in the com- mentaries of Caesar, under the title of Samarobriva, and, conjointly with Lutetia, it was the residence of most of tlie Roman Emperors during their occasional visits to Gaul. It is better built than most of the French towns, and contains 40,000 inhabitants. The cathedral is the most perfect in France, and has been called the chef-d’oeuvre of Gothic architecture. It was built by the English dur- ing the regency of the duke of Bedford. The portals at the entrance have been universally admired. Tlje river Somme runs through Amiens ; and, being cut into almost innumerable canals, gives to one part of the place the appearance of a Dutch town. The ramparts form a circumference of three miles. They are a favourite resort of the inhabitants ; and the view from them is far more beautiful than could be ex- pected from a town situated on a plain. Another favou- rite promenade of the citizens is L’Autois, by which the traveller passed on his entrance into Amiens. It is a little island, surrounded by canals, intersected by noble avenues of trees, and adorned with flowers. In the cen- tre is a statue of the goddess Flora. A pretty theatre, in Rue des Trois Cailloux ; is open on Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday. First boxes 2 francs. Second boxes. ... 27 sous. Pit 1 franc. The post-house is in Rue des Cordeliers; it is called the Hotel de le Cointre. The Paris diligences likewise stop here. Amiens was taken by the Spaniards in 1597. The stra- tagem by which the Spanish general gained possession of the place is curious and well known. He caused a cart- load of nuts to be overturned ad one of the gates; and, while the guard was scrambling for the fruit, he rushed into the town with a chosen body of men which he had ROUTE TO PARIS. 57 placed in ambush. The fortress was soon afterwards re- taken by Henry IV. The short and hollow peace of 1802 was signed here. The principal manufactures of Amiens are linen and woollen cloth. The latter of these used to employ more than 8,000 mechanics. Provisions of every kind are re- markably cheap at Amiens ; and many English families, of small income, are settling in its neighbourhood. Should business or pleasure detain the traveller at Amiens, he will find daily conveyance to Paris. The fare of the Amiens diligence is eighteen francs. A franc and a half is expected by the guard, and one franc by the driver. If the traveller should pass through Amiens on the market-day, he will find the place thronged with the Picardian peasantry. The men wear blue jackets and trowsers, or blue frocks, with immense hats, resembling those of our Opera-beaux, and the hair tied in an enor- mous club, and frequently powdered. The women are seen with blue jackets, and very short blue worsted petti- coats, of immense bulk, giving a ludicrous rotundity to the lower part of their frame. Quitting Amiens by the Paris gate, and having cleared the suburbs, the traveller passes by the college of Amiens on the left, with the village of St. Acheul.' On the right are Saulchoy,Pissy, and Guignemicourt. Two miles from Amiens is a hill, from whose top Guignemicourt is seen with the pretty park of Prousel, and behind are the town and citadel of Amiens in their full extent. Descending the hill, the tourist arrives at the village of Dury, be- yond which the road passes thrhugh the wood of Dury to H^becourt, having St. Fascien on the left, and Clairi on the right. A little on the Amiens’ side of the post-house in Hebecourt is an avenue of trees conducting to the vil- lage of Rumigni, which has already been seen on the left. Two miles beyond H6becourt is St. SauUeu, a large but uninteresting village. The road then winds up the side of the hill of Ouardieii, with a wood of the same name on the left, and beyond this Grattepanche, which is seen at the second bridge, over a ravine in the road. A dull and tedious length of two miles succeeds, until 8 58 BRETEUIL. he arrives at the village of Esserteaux. Oremaux and Sourdon are then passed on the left, and he reaches the post -house and village of Flers. A chateau in this village, belonging to Mr. Dubeau, is more than usually pleasant. On leaving Flers, Lusiere is on the right, and Kigni on the left; Aubouchel on the right, La Warde on the left; Fransures on the right, and L’Ortois on the left. The road now skirts a wood on the left. Kogy is on the right, opposite to another wood. Next follows the ham- let of Manger. Soon after this, and at the end of the avenue, the road ascends the hill of Gallet, from which is an extensive, but not very interesting view. Paillart is seen first on the right; in the extreme distance is Beauvoir ; Breteuil nearer; and immediately in front Esquennoy, on a rising ground. Bonneuil is on the left. On the descent of the hill is the hamlet of Folie; and opposite to a second bridge over a ravine, in the midst of a short avenue of trees, is Villers on the right. The road now ascends to Esquennoy, a small town, containing nothing worthy of observation. A mile beyond Esquennoy is Fl^chy on the right. It is seen amidst the next avenue of trees, with Esquennoy behind. The road again ascends, and the traveller arrives at the post-town of Breteuil. BRETEUIL is nobly situated on the brow of a hill, but the town itself is mean and dirty. It was formerly a place of more consequence, and contains some remains of antiquity. The country, which for a considerable distance has been dreary and unpleasant, does not yet improve. At the end of Breteuil is the river Noyez, and the village of Paillart on the left. Two little rivulets are then crossed, between which are the remains, now modernized, of the once celebrated Abbey of Breteuil. Vaudeuil is here on the right, and Tartigny on the left. A long avenue of trees then commences, with many windmills, behind which, on the right, is a handsome chateau. At the distance of a mile is a steep, but not very lofty nill, from the ascent of which is an extensive yet not in- teresting view. It chiefly lies over the country which KOUTE FROM BRETEUII. 59 the traveller has passed. On his extreme right, when he has turned, is Tartigny ; then Folleville and Paillart, and in front a noble view' of Breteuil. On his right are Vau- deuil and Capiy. When on the summit of the hill, Beau- voir is on the left, and Vauchen on the right. As the traveller continues his route, he passes Bon- villers on the left ; and Farviller, Campremy, and Grand- Mesnil on the right ; then Chepoix on the left •, after which he arrives at Wavignies, an uninteresting village, with a post-house. Ansauviller is immediately opposite to Wavignies on the left, and Tbieux on the right. Quincampoix and Blin come next on the left; then Fumechon and Cas- tillon on the right, and Plainval on the left. The road now has a few inequalities, and Bruvilay and Lermont are passed on the left; when the traveller arrives at St. Just, a long straggling town, where he changes horses. On leaving St. Just, the road rapidly improves ; and during the remainder of the journey to Paris, is seldom destitute of interest. Half a mile from St. Just is the river Bresche ; immediately beyond which the road be- gins to wind up the side of a long and steep hill. On the top is the village of Valcourt. On the left, and a little farther on, are some mills, and a farm called the Folly of Boutelangle. Two miles beyond are the village and chateau of Ar- genlieu, and Le Met on the right ; and further on are Birancourt, Airon, and St. Remy-en-l’Eau. Opposite to these last villages, and between them and a wood is a more pleasing prospect than the traveller has lately en- joyed. St. Remy is seen on the right, then Angy, a Telegraph, and Clermont town and castle. At a mile and a half further on, and where the wmod of Fitz-James begins to skirt the road, another noble view occurs, over Nointel, Breiiil-le-Sec, Breuil-le-Vert, and Clermont town and castle. At the end of the wood 8 the hamlet of Le Petit St. James, opposite to which ire the ruins of the once noble castle of the duke of Fitz- lames. The river Bresche is again crossed, and several rivu* 6 60 CLERMONT. lets ; after which the traveller ascends the hill to Cler- mont. Nothing can exceed the romantic beauty of the situa- tion of CLERMONT, with which the irregularity and meanness of the town form a singular contrast. The Romans selected it for one of their stations ; and entitled it Claroraontiurn, wdience the modern name Clermont. The surrolmding country is exceedingly fine ; and the town is on the summit of a steep hill, almost surrounded with wood. Some gardens on the very top of the hill are unequalled for beauty of prospect. The castle, and the little church, with its painted windows, deserve the attention of the curious. The post-house is in Rue des Fontaines. The diligence stops at the Wooden Sabre. The town contains about 2,000 inhabitants. As the traveller descends the steep hill on which Cler- mont is built, he passes by some gardens delightfully situated. On his right is Bethencourt, a pleasant coun- try residence, of which he has a view through the trees a little before the houses are discontinued on his left. He soon arrives at a brook, when Breuil-le-Sec is imme- diately on his left, and Rotelou on his right. At the distance of a quarter of a mile is a second bridge, which affords a view of Breuil-le-Sec. A third bridge soon succeeds, and the road begins to be enclosed between two hills. Lamotte is now on the left ; and soon afterwards, Breuil-le-Vert. Another brook is passed; and, on looking back through the valley, a farewell and interesting view of the castle of Clermont is presented. Auvilliers is now on the right, and is soon seen, with Uny and Breuil-le-Vert on the left. He now enters, and soon traverses the little wood of Nointel. Neuilly, Cam- bronne, Vaux, and Despoillen, are on the right ; and Uny and Bailie val on the left. As he emerges from the wood, and a little before he enters Rentigny, he has a view of most of these villages peeping through the trees by which they are surrounded. The village of Rentigny contains nothing remarkable. The greater part of the road, for many miles, has been bordered by trees ; an avenue now commences, which CRIEL. 61 is continued with no interruption but that of buildings to the very gates of Paris. The road still winds under the hill on the right, and follows its various sinuosities. About a quarter of a mile from Rentigny, where roads branch off to the right and left, the traveller looks back on Bailleval, and forward on the left to Cauffry, and Liancourt. The former of these he soon passes, with a considerable manufactory of tiles on his right. Opposite to the twenty-eighth milestone from Paris is Liancourt on the left, with its extensive park and ele- gant chateau. A little farther on is Monneville, likewise on the left, and some not uninteresting views are afforded of the villages that have been passed. Immediately after the twenty-seventh milestone is a short ascent, followed by a speedy descent, and the tra- veller arrives at the post-town of Lingueville. Nothing here occurs to arrest his progress ; and, passing Monchy- St.-Eloy on the left, and Lingueville church on an emi- nence on the right, and soon afterwards Montataire, likewise on the right and on the very summit of the hill, he reaches the village of Nogent-les-V^erges. Villiers- St.-Paul and Brenouille-sur-Oise are about urmile to the left. The village is pleasantly situated, and the road to Criel by the Grange Farm, the plantations of Mr. Mon- telay, the extensive ponds at the end of the plantations, and the luxuriant meadow that conducts to the Oise, are very agreeable. At the spot where the road crosses the Oise, an island divides its stream. Two bridges conduct to Criel. This was formerly a fortified town, and not unfrequent men- tion of it occurs in the history of France. The fortifi- cations, however, are now dilapidated, and it contains nothing remarkable but a China manufactory, which is falsely said to rival those of Colebrook-Dale. As soon as the traveller leaves Criel, he climbs a steep ascent, which rewards him with a beautiful prospect of the country behind. The town of Criel is a prominent object : beyond it is St. Leu, and the tower of St. Christopher is on the left. As he proceeds, Meclou, St. Vaast, Cramoisy, Tiverny, and St. Maxiraim, are G 62 CHA^JTILLY» passed on the right ; and near the twenty-third mile- stone are other not unpleasing views of the road which has been traversed. The wood of Hallate now borders the road on the left ; while on the right is an extensive plain, which continues beyond the twenty -first mile -stone, when a rapid descent, and a meadow with canals on each side of the way, con- duct to CHANTILLY. This town was once famed for the beauty of its gar- dens, the splendour of its palace, and still more for the heroes who inhabited it. The hunting seal of the Mout- morencies and the Condos is now a heap of ruins. It was destroyed by a mob from Paris early in the Revo- lution. The stables only remain ; and these, even in their dilapidated state, convey no mean idea of the former magnificence of the place. The building con- sists of one enormous stable, 600 feet in length, and 40 in height. In the centre is a lofty dome ninety- feet high, and sixty in diameter. Under this is a fountain which supplies a noble reservoir formed of the most costly marbles, and enriched by numerous well-executed deco- rations. This unique apartment was formerly divided into 400 stalls, but they have been long ago demolished. When the splendid palace of the Montmorencies was levelled with the ground, a smaller chateau connected with it was spared, that it might alford a temporary shelter for the revolutionary plunder. This is now the habitation of the duke de Bourbon, to whom the patri- mony of his ancestors has been restored. It contains nothing to arrest the traveller’s attention, unless the me- lancholy contrast which its hasty and coarse repairs form with the vestiges of fonner princely grandeur. Chantilly affords excellent accommodation for the traveller at the Hotel de Bourbon. As the traveller quits Chantilly, he has Pesservant, Villiers, and Govieux, on his right ; and the forest of Chantilly soon begins to skirt the road on his left. The whole of the road across the hill is pleasant, but the most beautiful spots are near the nineteenth mile-stone, whence he commands an extensive view over the country behind ECOUE>I, 63 him, and at the brow of the hill, where the prospect is peculiarly tine, particularly to the right. At the foot of the hill, and near the eighteenth mile- stone, is the hamlet of Morlaye, with its noble chateau and park. Three branches of the river Morlaye are hext crossed, when the road penetrates some thick* but not extensive woods. The wood of Herivaux is on the left, and that of Royaumont on the right. Descending the hill, with the chateau of Hartindal on the right, then passing two brooks and leaving Chau- montel on the lett, and Belloy on the right, and crossing another stream the tourist reaches Luzarches, a small town containing a few oil mills, and a cotton manufactory. A little beyond Luzarches the road becomes exceedingly steep, and enters the forest of Champl^trenx. Some interesting views here occur through the different ave- nues of the wood ; and at the fourteenth milestone the superb mansion and park of Champl&treux present them- selves. The traveller wdll do well to pause and examine them particularly. From the end of the park the road is continued in a perfectly straight line, for nearly two miles, and presents nothing worthy of notice but Mareil-en-France on the left, situated on the summit of an abrupt and lofty hill. At the twelfth milestone the traveller enters the vil- lage of Menil-Aubry, and a little beyond he has a view of the numerous villages with which the country is here studded. Chastenay, Plessis-Gassot, Bouqueval, and Plessis-des-ValI4es, are on the left ; and Allainville, Moisselles, and Ezanville, on the right. After this he traverses a wood for nearly two miles, and arrives at Ecouen-la-Hautefeuille. A chateau was built near Ecouen by Anne of Mont- morency, which on the emigration of the noble family of the Condos, became national property. The late Emperor devoted it to a noble and benevolent purpose. He established a seminary here for the education of the orphan daughters of the members of the Legion of Honour. The painted glass in one of the galleries of the chateau has been much admired. The subject is .aken from a work of Raphael, and represents the his- G 2 64 ; approach to PARIS. tory of Psyche. The chapel and the sacristy offer some well-executed copies of Raphael and Leonardo-da-Vinci. Beyond Ecouen is a hill, whence are seen most of the villages between Luzarches and Ecouen, and in front the abbey of St. Denis, and the windmills of Montmartre. A rapid descent soon follows ; and, after passing Villers- le-bel close to the road on the left, and Piscop and St. Brice on the right, the traveller arrives at Sarcelles, through the middle of which flows the river Arnpuville. As the capital is approached, the country is more thickly studded wath villages, which now begin to present themselves on either side in almost uniterrupted succes- sion. I shall merely mention their names. A full de- scription of those which contain any thing peculiarly wor- thy attention will be found in the account of the environs of Paris. Montmagmy, Cormeil, and Argeneuil, occur on the right ; and Stains, opposite to the latter village, on the left. The road then lies through Pierrefitte. Dreuil and Villetaneuse succeed on the right. The river Rouillon is crossed. A mile beyond, where a noble ave- nue branches off on either side, are some slight fortifi- cations. Two brooks are then passed, and some barracks are seen half a mile from St. Denis. The town of St. Denis, with its venerable abbey, will be particularly noticed among the environs. Beyond St. Denis was a convent, now converted into spacious barracks. Near them, and on the other side of the little river Croii, a noble avenue branches off to Ver- sailles. Gourneuve is now seen on the left, then St. Ouen on the right, Aubervilliers on the left, Gournay and Chicy on the right, and La Villette on the left. The stately avenue of trees on either side of the road bears evident marks of the ravages of war. Some little obelisks are passed on the left of the road. The common people affirm, that on the spot wffiere each is erected, St. Denis halted in his strange and miraculous journey after his decapitation. They were, however, really intended to designate the places where Philip the Bold and his brothers rested, when they bore the corpse of their father from Paris to St. Denis. ROUTE TO BRIGHTON. 65 The village of La Chapelle is noAv traversed j soon after which the traveller arrives at the Barrier of St. Denis, and enters the capital of France. ROUTE FROM LONDON TO PARIS BY BRIGH- TON AND DIEPPE. 1. London to Brighton, Mail Road through Croydon, Rye- gate, and Craivley. Miles. Croydon (as at No. 5.) 9^ Foxley Hatch 12 Hooilv House 145 Merstiiam 17| Ryegate 21^ Wood Hatch 22^ Dover’s Farm 22f Hook wood Common . . . 26f Crawley 30| Miles. Hand Cross .35 Staplefield Common .. .36| To Piecombe (by new road) 47 Pangdean 47| Patcham 49^ Withdean 50^ Preston 51 Brighton 52| Or, through Cuckjield, Staplefield Common (as above) ...» Slough Green ...38-i Whiteman’s Green . . . .39i Cucktield Ansty St. John’s Common ... .43| Friar’s Oak Inn 45^ Stone Pound 46^ Clayton 47 Piecombe 48^- Brighton (as above) .. .53| 3. London to Brighton, by Mitcham and Ryegate, Kennington 1 ^ Stock well 2^ Clapham Common 3y Balliani Hill 4| Upper Tooting Lower Tooting 6 Amen Corner 6^- Figg’s Marsh G 3 r>6 HOUTE TO BRIGHTON. Miles. Upper Mitcham Lower Mitcham 8| Sutton 11^ Canbatch Farm 15| Tadworth 15| Bliles. The Warren 16| RufFet 18 Gatton* Inn 19| Ryegate 21 Brighton (as at No. 1,)52| 3. London to Brighton, through Horsham. Lower Tooting Bear Green Merton Capel Morden • Kingfold Ewell Horsham . . .36i Epsom West Grinstead . . . . . A3l Ashstead Partridge Green. . . Leatherhead Steyning Micklehara Braraber Biirford Bridge Beeding Dorking Brighton OR, Horsham (as above) . .36^ Woodraancote Cowfold .431 Terry's Cross Mockbridge A6l Saddlescomb Henfield .47| Brighton 4. London to Brighton, by Lindjield. New Chapel Green (as Hapstead Green ... at No. 5.) .241 Lindfield Turner Hill .29| Hayward’s Heath . , . . .39"" Siddesfield Common . , .30i Wivelsfield Tealing Hurst .331 Ditchling * A new road which branches off from Gatton to Brighton, has been lately opened, but it is not frequented by the stages, and is very little shorter than the above road. ROUTE TO BRIGHTON, 67 Miles. Patcham 51 Withdean. .5lf Preston 52| Brighton 54^ Miles. Keymer 45^ Stone Pound Gate . . . .46^ Clayton 47^ Piecombe 48| Pangdean 49 ^ 5. London to Brighton^ by Croydon^ East Grinstead, and Lewes. To Kennington, Surry Brixton Causeway 3^ Streathara 5 Broad Green 8i Croydon Turnpike. . . .10 Purley Direction Post 11^ Rose and Crown Inn 14t [Or, by keeping along Smetham Bottom to the right, about half a mile, and then hearing to the left, a new road is made to the Rose and Crown, which avoids Riddlesdown Hill, and is only a quarter of a mile farthei'. Route to Ryegate, nine miles.} Miles. Marden-Park Lodge . .15^ xlalf-Moon Inn .. ..... .15^ Quarrey-House Gate, .18 Godstone Green 19 Stanstead Borough . . . ,20| Blinley Heath 23 New Chapel Green .. .24f Fellbridge, Sussex . . . .26| East Grinstead 28-| Forest Row 31 "Wych Cross 33^ OR, Miles. To Wych Cross, as above 33^ Dane Hill . 36^ Sheffield Bridge 38;^ Chailey Common 41 The packets from Brighton'to Dieppe, the times of sailing, and the usual fares, have already been described (page 21.) The length of the passage is extremely im>' Miles. Nutley 36^ Maresfield 391 Uckfield 41^ Horstead 43i Cliff 49| Lewes Town-Hall ... .50 Guide-Post 50^ The Barracks 51^ Ashconib 5lf Falmer 54 Brighton ..58^ Miles. Chadley 42^ Cook’s Bridge 43^ Offam Street 47 Guide-Post 48^ Brighton 56| 68 DIEPPE. certain. With a favourable wind, it has been performed in seven hours, but many persons have been detained nearly forty-eight hours on shipboard ; it will therefore be necessary to lay in a sufficient stock of provisions. An enormous crucifix on the quay is one of the first objects that presents itself, as the vessel approaches Dieppe. The quay itself bears much resemblance to that of Calais, and exhibits equal bustle and confusion. The -traveller will be instantly surrounded with the same host of porters, clamoronsly contending for the honour of conveying his baggage to the hotel, and the same cere- monials await him with the police and custom-house officers. The best Inns are the London, and the Little Paris Hotel ; or, if business or pleasure should detain him at Dieppe, he will find comfortable and reasonable accom- modations at the Hotel dn Rouen. Dieppe is situated at the mouth of the river Arques, and contains about 20,000 inhabitants. It is a town of great antiquity . The peculiar and grotesque appearance of its houses, overhanging its narrow and filthy streets, sufficiently indicates this. The harbour is secure and spacious ; it is capable of containing 200 merchant ves- sels, and an equal number of smaller fishing craft. A ba- sin is nearly completed for the reception of frigates, and lighter ships of war. The principal trade is in fish. Some interesting and long-established manufactories of ivory toys are found here. The inhabitants of Dieppe affirm that they first discovered the coast of Guinea, and introduced the ele- phant’s tooth into France ; and from that period they have been ambitious to excel in the construction of every article composed of this material. The church of St. Jacques is an ancient and pleasing structure. The tower affords an extensive view of Dieppe, the surrounding country, and the ocean. The white cliffs of the English coast are seen in the horizon. The castle, that overhangs the town, offers a yet finer view, but it is difficult to obtain access to it. The ave- nues leading to the castle, will, however, repay the tra- veller for the trouble of ascending them, by the varied and lively scenery which they present. ROUTE TO PARIS. 69 Few things will appear more singular to the stranger than the head-dress of the lower and middling classes of the female inhabitants of Dieppe. It has remained un- changed from time immemorial, and is peculiar to this part of Normandy. It consists of a pasteboard frame, frequently of more than half a yard in height. The low- er part of it is covered with silk, which, in the plainest, is edged with gold or silver lace, while the more expen- sive are formed of the richest gold or silver embroidery. Above this is an immense muslin lappet, white as the driven snow, and often full one-fourth the height of the wearer. Ridiculous as the description may appear, and singular as the dress really is, it is very far from being unpleasing : at least the taste with which it is ornamented, and the red gowns, cloaks, and petticoats, with wliich it is usually accompanied, render the peasant girls of Dieppe and Normandy no uninteresting objects to the stranger. From Dieppe to Paris are two routes : the first 111 miles, and the second, through Rouen, 136 miles. The tourist may travel post either way ; but, except he be very much pressed for time, I would earnestly recom- mend him to choose the latter, which conducts him through a country little inferior to the most beautiful and luxuriant districts of England. The diligence takes the second route. I shall merely mention the different relays of the former road, and give a short itinerary of the second. Posts. Miles. Posts. Miles. Dieppe .... — .. 130| Chars .2 .. 206^- Bois-Rol)ert 1^ . . 137| Pontoise t . .21 .. 219 Pommereval 2 148| Franconville t lA . . 227-*- Forges .... 3 165i Saint Denis n .. 235 i Gournay . . 2^ . . 179 Paris 1 .. 241 Gisors*.... 3 195^ * A third horse must be taken or paid for in the two last stages. t Pontoise was formerly celebrated for a strong castle, which the English took by stratagem in 1433. In 165^, 17‘i0, and 1753, the parliaments of Paris were transferred to this place. :J; Franconville. If the traveller has a few hours to 70 SCENERY OF NORMANDY. ANOTHER ROAD FROM DIEPPE TO PARIS, BY ROUEN AND ST. GERMAIN-EN-LA YE. Posts. Miles, Dieppe ‘ 2 , liiOJ Osmonville* . . .2 ....141| Tostes 1|. . . .150 Cambres Ig. • * .158-4- Rouen ..2 I69i Port 8t. Ouen 1^. . . . 177^ Vaiidreuil i^. . . .i85| Gaillon 2 . . . .196| Vernon if. . . .206f Posts. Miles. Bonnieres . ...li... • 214^ Mantes .. . . ...li... Meulan .. . . . . .2 . . . .2331 Triel ...1 ... .2394- St. Germain- -en- Laye .. . . . . .1|. . . .2464 Nanterre .. . Faris The first part of this route, and extending many miles beyond Rouen, forms a striking contrast to the descrip- tion which we have given of the general scenery of France. The long, unbroken, undeviating line, that dis- pleases and tires on other routes ; the total want of en- closures and hedge-rows, which, notwithstanding the most admirable system of cultivation, conveys an idea of waste and neglect ; the absence of those country-seats that decorate the English roads, and indicate the opu- lence of the inhabitants; and the more melancholy ab- sence of the numerous flocks of sheep and herds of cattle, which animate the scenery of most of the British coun- ties, and excite in the mind of the solitary traveller a pleasing feeling of society, and of comfort, — with these faults the route from Dieppe to Rouen is not chargeable. On the contrary, the inequalities of the face of the coun- try; the sudden and abrupt declivities; the hills not na- ked and bare, but clothed with wood, or with verdure, to their very summits ; the rapid succession of villages and chateaux ; the numerous rivulets which rush through every valley ; and the cattle, not as in other parts of France, enclosed in the home-shed, but grazing in the enclosures, that diversify this district, strongly bring to spare, he will be much pleased with the gardens of the Comte d’Albon, which are laid out with a beautiful sim- plicity rarely seen in France. ROUTE TO PARIS. 7 1 the traveller’s recollection tlie most beautiful scenery of Devon, Somerset, or Hereford. If the traveller proceeds by the diligence he should take a place as far as Rouen only, whence he may con- tinue his route as his business or pleasure permit. The tourist quits Dieppe by the suburb of Barre and leaving St. Pierre-d’Epinay, and Valdruel on tlie left, passes through Janval. Boutailles and Kouxnienil are soon on his left, and he is presented with a noble pro- spect, peculiarly grand towards the sea. The gardens of Vertus are afterwards seen on his right; and, passing the lofty hill of St. Aubin, he arrives at the village of St. Aubin-sur-Seye. Sauqiieville next succeeds, and, on the other side of the river Seye, Patteville. Calmon follows next, on a rising ground, then the hamlet of Catteville ; and Bois I’Abbe being passed on the right, the little post-town of Osraonville is reached. A little beyond Osmonville is Venise, the Belmenil, Bennetot, and Biville-la-Bagniarde, Varanville, Soquen- tot, and Ste-Genevieve, have already been passed on the right, and Gonneville and Fresn^ on the left ; to these succeed Aufay on the left, and Calleville, Fume- chon, and St. Vast du Val on the right, when the village of Tostes presents itself. Having changed horses, and passed Breteville on his right, the traveller reaches Valmartin, and then Boulay ; and having seen Sierville on his right, and Anceaumeviile on his left, arrives at Gambles. Again changing horses, and passing Montville and Essete on his left, traversing the wood of Bourgut, and crossing the river Cailly, he reaches Malaunay, and then Haulme. The road, now skirting the river Cailly, con- ducts him to Bondeville, and afterwards to Devilfe. As he passes through the valley between this and Bapaume, he sees many bleaching grounds, paper-manu- factories, and mills of various descriptions on his left; I and proceeding along the base of the hill of Trihoudet, and traversing the valley of Yonville, he reaches the Seine. The road is here skirted with a double row of trees, and assumes that straight direction which displeases 72 ROUEN. SO much in the roads of France ; but the neighbourhood of the river, and the view of the majestic capital of Nor- mandy, more than compensate for this disadvantage. The tourist is here treated with a specimen of the peculiar manner of lighting the roads in the greater part of France. Ropes are stretched across the road from tree to tree, and lamps are suspended in the centre. This is a vestige of the total disregard which used to be paid to the convenience and comfort of the middle and lower classes. The roads in France are infinitely wider than in England. The lord who travels in his carriage in the centre of the highway, where there is nothing to impede his progress, or endanger his safety, enjoys the full benefit of the light, while scarcely the dimmest ray reaches the pedestrian at the side, for whom neither pavement nor foot-path is prepared, and who splashes his way through the mire as well as he can. The traveller passes through the suburb of Cauchoise, and enters Rouen by the gate of H^vre. ROUEN, formerly the capital of Normandy, is now styled first city of the department of Lower Seine, and is an archbishop’s see. It stands north of the river, is seven miles in circumference, including its six suburbs, and is computed to contain 73,000 inhabitants. As in most towns of great antiquity, its streets are narrow and crooked, and its houses built of wood ; notwithstanding which, it is one of the most opulent cities of France. The places worthy of observation are the great hall of the palace, formerly appropriated for the assembling of the parliaments of Rouen ; the castle ; the cathedral ; and the steeple of the late Benedictines. The cathedral was built by William the Conqueror, and is a perfect specimen of the noblest Gothic architecture. Rouen is celebrated as the birth-place of Fontenelle, and the two Corneilles ; and of the interesting and un- fortunate Joan of Arques or Arc. To the eternal dis- grace of the English general, she was burnt here for sorcery in the year 1430. Her statue is shewn in the market place, and her memory is venerated and adored by the Normans. The suburb of St. Sever, on the other side of the Seine, KOUEN. 73 communicates with the city by a bridge of boats, which rises and falls with the tide. It is the invention of an Augustine friar, and is so contrived, that, by elevating a draw-bridge in the centre, the boat, or ratjier the im- mense barge underneath, slips out, and the largest ves- sel passes without difficulty. In five minutes the boat is replaced in its former position, and pedestrians tra- verse the bridge as before; or in two hours the whole fabric can be taken to pieces, and put together again. The principal inns are Renault’s (Hotel Vatel), 85, Rue de Carmes ; Mare’s (Hotel de France,) in the same street; and Deterville’s (Hotel de la VUle de Paris), Rue de la Savonnerie. Those by whom a little additional ex- pense is not regarded will probably resort to Phillope’s (Hotel de Poitiers), on the Boulevards. A tl)eatre is open every evening. The admittance to the Boxes is only three francs. The Hotel de Ville contains a magnificent library of 70,000 volumes. It has likewise a small but select cabi- net of paintings. Admission to these is easily procured. The town is regularly fortified, and the beauty of the iBoulevards forms a singular contrast with the darkness ‘and filth of many of the principal streets. Nothing can exceed the prospect which they afford of the quay, the river, the towm, and the surrounding country thickly studded with villages and chateaux. A hill in the neighbourhood called Mount St. Catha- rine, presents at one view all the beauties which are discerned from different points of the Boulevards. No traveller should quit Rouen without visiting this spot. The tourist may proceed to Paris by land or watA-. Should he have abundance of leisure, he may embark on :he Seine, and continue his route by a packet or hotise- itoat. The romantic scenery of t)ie river, although far nferior to that of the Herefordshire Wye, will compen- iate for the delay, if he can be content to travel at the flow rate of thirty miles per diem. The boat wall stop in he evening at some pleasing village, where he will meet vith comfortable, but not luxurious accommodation. 1 As, however, he will probably prefer to complete his ourney by the diligence, he wall secure a place either H ROUTE FROM 74 . at 79, Rtie Grand Pont, whence a conveyance starts every morning at five o’clock; or at Le Bourgeois, Rue Thouret, whence a diligence sets out every morning at half past five and every night at six o’clock. The road from Rouen to Paris lies through the suburb of Epaulet. The Seine is on the right, and the suburb of St. Sever on the other side of it. The favourite pro- menade and ride, called the Queen’s Course, is passed ; then the Dauphin’s Course, the church, and the glacis of St. Paul, when the traveller finds himself opposite to the hill of St. Michel. He proceeds by some manufactories of porcelain and colours, until he arrives at the foot of the hill and village of Bons-Secours. Then, leaving Sotteville on his right, he reaches Anfreville. Belbeuf is now on his left, and a forest at a little greater dis- tance ; and, passing Rouvray on his right, he arrives at Gravettes. Many points of the road have given him pleasing views of the Seine, and the highly cultivated yet romantic country through which it flows. He now passes by some abrupt rocks, and, crossing the bridge that divides St. Crespin from Belbeuf, arrives at the former place. Soon after he quits this village the road lies underneath some loftier crags, and presents one of the most delightful prospects which France af- fords. The Seine is winding through the valley beneath in numerous beautiful meanderings, now contracting it- self to the dimensions of an inferior river, and then sud- denly expanding to an immense lake, studded with little islands. The hills on either bank sometimes rise with a gentle declivity, and, in other places, towering abrupt- ly, overhang the stream; while, in the remote distance, the majestic towers of Rouen nobly terminate the view. Leaving this fascinating spot, and passing Oissel on the right, the traveller arrives at Port-Saint-Ouen. Changing horses here, and passing the hill of Saint- Ouen, another interesting prospect awaits him. Saint- Aubin and Gouy are soon on his right, with the park and chateau of Belle-Vue behind him. He now, for a httle while, bids adieu to the interesting scene, of which he had not long lost sight since he quitted Rouen. Passing by the village of Antieux, and crossing a bridge, the ROUEN. ^75 road lies between two little woods, with the forest of Bonport at no great distance. Leaving Elbeuf, Cau- debec, Marlot, Criquebeuf, Freneuse, and Sotteville, on the left, the traveller again perceives his favourite river ; and, visiting Igoville, he soon afterwards crosses the Seine, and reaches Vaudreuil. Passing Saint-Cyr on his left, and Toste on his right, and traversing the forest of Pont-de f Arche for two leagues, he reaches Incarville ; and, on the other side of a hill, the little town of Louviers. LOUVIERS is built on a small but fertile plain, wa- tered by the river Eure. Its principal manufactory is of cloth. For this it is celebrated in every part of France, and great quantities of cloth are sent from Lou- viers to Spain. The best inns are the Sheep and the Stag. On leaving Louviers, the traveller pauses to contem- plate a prospect of no inconsiderable interest, especially as he will soon find that the face of the country is chang- ing, and the usual scenery of France succeeds to the pic- turesque views of Norm.andy. Passing Quatremarres, Cacoville, Menil Jourdan, and Pinterville, on the right, he reaches Heubdouville ; and two or three miles be- yond, and having crossed some considerable hills, and a bridge in the valley of unusual height, he arrives at Vieux-Villers. Clef-la-Ville succeeds to this, and then the post-town of Gaillon. * GAILLON is situated in the department of Eure, and is rendered conspicuous by containing the splendid pa- lace attached to the see of Rouen. It is eleven miles N. E. of Evreux, and twenty-two S.S.E. of Rouen, Villages almost innumerable now succeed on the right and left, and more or less visible, with one or two, but not very interesting views of the Seine. The road then passes through Clos-Adam, Goulet, Maitreville, CIos- Ardent, and Macatre, with a better prospect of the Seine, to which succeeds the town of Vernon, containing 5,000 inhabitants, with a manufactory of velvet, and a celebrated mineral spring. It was the favourite resort of the English before the Revolution. Beyond Vernon, and having passed some rocks with a vie^ of the Seine, is Petit- Val, between w hich and Grand- II 2 76 MANTES. Val is a finer prospect. On the other side of Grand- Val is a yet superior landscape. The Seine is the principal object, with the island formed by its confluence with the Epte. Villez succeeds, and then Jeufosse, beyond which the road suddenly narrows, and is shut in between some lofty rocks. Beyond this is Bonnieres, a little before the entrance of which the villages of Lombardie, Gloton, Incourt, Cachaleau, and Tripeval, are seen. Numerous villages are now seen on either side, when an extensive prospect occurs, commanding the Seine, and the villages of Mericourt, Mousseaux, Auxile, Mois- spn, Cherenc^, Villers-en-Artie, &c. Descending the hill, the road is continued along the bank of the Seine : while on the left is a lofty and abrupt rock, with caves curiously dug in its side. Rolleboise follows ; then, after crossing a very elevated bridge, Rosny, and beyond it the inconsiderable, but pictur- esque, town of Mantes. MANTES was the burial-place of John, king of France, who founded a chapter there. The bridge over the Seine, although elliptic, is 120 feet wide, and consists of 39 arches. The wines from the vineyard of the late Celestins, situated without the town, were accounted ex- cellent. It is 31 miles N. W. of Paris. The principal church is a noble Gothic building, but has sulfered much from the injuries of time. On the other side of Mantes many branches of the Seine are crossed, and the village of Limay succeeds. Beyond this is an extensive view over Mantes-la-Ville. Many vineyards now occur, with the dwarfish appear- ance of M'hich the traveller will probably be much dis- appointed. Beyond a sandy valley is Isson, and then Juziers; after which, leaving Aubergenville, Flins, and Bouaffle, on the right, the road follows the course of the Seine as far as Mezy. Two small rivers are then crossed, and the tourist reaches the small town of Meuian, con- taining two thousand three hundred inhabitants. It is celebrated for its quarries, its tanneries, and its stock- ing manufactories. After passing several villages on either side, the :?:;ad agaiii winds along the hanhs of the Seine, and then con- ST. GERMAIN. 77 ducts to Vaux. Beyond this, it is pleasingly shut in, between the Seine and the hill of A utils. The village of Trie!, at which the next relay of horses is procured, aifords nothing remarkable, nor does the road so far as Poissy, where the Seine is again crossed. After ascend- ing a hill, and traversing a forest for more than a league, St. Germain-en-Laye presents itself. ST. GERMAIN is remarkable for its magnificent pa- lace, embellished by several kings, but more particularly by Louis XIV., who was born in it. In this fabric the fugitive James II. of England found an asylum when he sought refuge in France, It is now used as a military school. The park of St. Germain is much admired. It contains a terrace, extending nearly two miles in length, and com- manding a pleasing view of the Seine, which winds for many miles through a richly cultivated valley, with the city of Paris plainly discerned in the distant perspective. The road from St. Germain to Paris is a broad paved way, with rows of noble elms on each side. A steep hill is first passed, and the hamlet of Filan- court succeeds. Beyond this is the village of Marly, and the machine which supplies Versailles with water. {Vide Environs of Paris.) The road once more follows the course of the river for a little distance, and then leads to Nanterre, a village celebrated for its cakes, pastry, and pork, which are in much request at Paris. It likewise contains an exten- sive manufactory of chemical apparatus. Having changed horses here, and leaving Calvaire, Saresnes, and Chantecoq, on his right, the traveller arrives at a spot, which affords a noble prospect over a populous and highly-cultivated tract of country, and dis- covers almost innumerable villages on every side. He then passes through L’Etoile, crosses the Seine over a magnificent bridge, and enters Neuilly. {Vide Envi- rons.) He next traverses the plain of Sablons, ap- proaches the wood of Boulogne, and, leaving Anieres and Clichy on his left, enjoys a not uninteresting view over the valley of Montmorency, and the plain of St. Dennis. Having Chaillot on his right, he descends a gentle hill, and enters Paris through the Elysian Fields, H 3 78 ROUTE TO OSTEND. ' FROM LONDON TO PARIS BY MARGATE AND OSTEND. Miles. 10 [New cross, oi Deptford 4-i Blackheath 5i Shooter’s Hill . ; Welling 10| Crayford 13 Hartford i 5 Northfleet SOJ Gravesend 2 If Chalk Street 23 Gad’s Hill 26| Stroud 28J Rochester §9 Chatham 30 Raynham 34 Newington Street 36| Miles. Key Street Sittlngbourn Rapchild ... 4U Radfield Street . . . ... 41f Green Street Ospring Boughton Street . . ... 49 Bougliton Hill . . . . ... 50 Harble Down ..... Canterburv Sturry . ..“ Upstreet ... 61 h Starr Alcol Margate 70 CROSS OVER TO OSTEND. Posts. Miles. I Posts. Miles. To Ostend * — 143 I Thourout. . ...S 160^- * The approach to OSTEND has nothing beautiful or grand to recommend it. The Flemish coast stretches along the horizon, in one low^, scarcely unbroken flatness. The first object visible is the light house ; afterwards a few houses peep above some unsightly projections, which denote the fortifications of the place. Although the trade of Ostend is considerable, the harbour is not free from danger, and can only be entered by ships of considerable burden, at nearly high water. The town has nothing grand in its appearance to recommend it ; yet the general constrijction of the houses, and the dress of the inhabi- tants, are not unpleasing to the English traveller, for they bear much resemblance to what he has been accustomed to see in his native country. Ostend is situated among numerous canals, the sluices of which, and particularly one called the Slykens, are worth attention. It endured a remarkable siege of three LILLE. 79 Posts. Miles. 1 Posts, Miles. ISIenin* . ...3^..., . . 179| Carvin .. . . . 2!03i- Lille t . . . . 190| 1 Lens ... 1^ ... .. 2il|- years and three months, against the Spaniards, from 1601 to 1604. Fifty thousand of the garrison and inha- bitants perished by disease or the sword ; and eighty thousand of the besiegers. It at length capitulated on honourable terms. In 1798, the English landed, and destroyed the w^orks of the Bruges canal, but the wind shifting before they could re-embark, they were com- pelled to surrender to the French. The town-hall, though low, is very handsome. Most of the houses are likewise built very low, on account of the high winds that often blow from the sea : this gives to Ostend a somewhat mean appearance. The soil affords no fresh water, and the inhabitants are obliged to procure it from Bruges. The principal inns are the Great St. Michael, the Old St. Michael, and the Bellevue. There is an English house whose sign is the Rose, where the traveller will meet with comfortable accommodation at a moderate rate. The Great and the Little are the most frequented coffee-houses. ^ MENIN, a town of the Netherlands, has been the scene of much military contention, and was last taken by the French in 1794. It is situated on the Lys ; is eight miles S. E. ofYpres, and 10 miles N. of Lille. The prin- cipal inn is the Chasseur Rouge. Menin contains about six thousand inhabitants, and is celebrated for its beer, cloth, and table-linen. Near Menin is the beautiful village of Isengheiin. tLILLE, a very strong city of France, and famous for its commerce, is computed to contain sixty-five thou- sand inhabitants, and is guarded by what is esteemed the finest citadel in Europe, with the exception only of that at Turin. The streets and squares are adorned with very noble buildings ; and among the public edifices are the Exchange, a Magazine of great extent, and a General Hospital. Lille was taken by the allies after a siege of three months in 1708, but was restored by the treaty 3 so ARRAS. Posts. Miles. I Posts. Miles. Arras * 2 222g jErvillers .... 2 23;j^- of Utredit in 1713. In i792 it was severely bombarded by the Austrians. It is seated on the Deule, and is one hundred and thirty miles N. of Paris. The Hotel de Grand is excellent and reasonable. The Golden Lion, the Bell, and the Flanders Hotel, are likewise good inns. Lille is surrounded by more than two hundred wind- mills, which give it a singular appearance. The principal manufactures are expressed oils, soap, leather, thread, woollen and cotton cloths, and lace. * ARRAS, capital of the department of Pas de Calais, is a well-fortified town and an episcopal see. It is divided into the ancient and modern town. Tlse great square, which is surrounded by piazzas, boasts of some very splendid edifices. It is built on arches, in the Spanish style of architecture. The cathedral is a noble Gothic edifice. The brazen pulpit, in the form of a tree, supported by two enormous bears, is generally shown to the traveller. The ancient abbey of St. Vaast is now converted into a military station. The citadel would be the most beautiful in the Nether- lands, were it a little higher. Arras possesses a superb library, formed from the wreck of that of St. Vaast, and since enriched by many voluntary contributions. The library contains an inte- resting collection of vases, inscriptions, and other ves- tiges of antiquity, found in the province of Artois. The principal inns are the Little St. Paul, the Hotel of Europe, the London Hotel, and the Griffin. The best coffee-houses are the Commercial, the European, and the Comedian. The theatre is a neat structure, and the performers as good as a provincial stage usually af- fords. The principal manufactures are lace, woollen cloths, stockings, leather, and refined sugar. The number of inhabitants is 20,000. The walk on the glacis and ram- parts is very fine. PERONNE. 81 Posts. Miles, j Posts. Miles. SaiJIy * 2 !244| Marcli6-le-Pot . . . . 261 Peronnef .... 1^- .. .. 2.52| j Fonches 1 .... 266|- * Between Ervillers and Sailly, and on the ridge of the chain of ' hills which runs through that part of the coun- try, is the' little town of Bapaume. It contains 3,500 inhabitants, and is supported by the manufactory of cambric, linen, and gauze. This part of the road affords many extensive, and not unpleasing views of the surrounding country. Between Sailly and Peronne, near Mont-Saint-Quentin, is a pro- spect peculiarly fine. f PERONNE is a well-fortified town in the department of Somme, denominated also La Pucelle, in consequence of its never having been taken, though very frequently besieged. In the short campaign of 1814, however, it forfeited its claim to this honourable title. It was garri- soned, after the fatal battle of Waterloo, by some bat- talions of the national guard. When the British army advanced tow^ards Paris, an officer of the engineers was despatched to summon the garrison of Peronne. By strange and most culpable neglect, he w'as admitted into the fortress without being previously blindfolded ; and making the best use of the unexpected advantage which was afforded him, he discovered that one of the outworks presented some w eak points ; and on his return proposed to attempt it by escalade. The proposal was adopted. He headed the scaling party, and the virgin fortress was soon carried. The castle was the prison of Charles the Simple, who there ended his days in a wa'etched manner. The Duke of Burgundy detained Louis XI. for three days within the walls of this fortress, until he consented to ratify a disadvantageous treaty. It stands on the Somme, and is eighty miles E. by N. of Paris. Its chief manufactures are cambrics, linen, and paper, and it contains 3,80O inliabitants. Between Peronne and Marche, near Villers-Carbounel is an extensive prospect. 82 SENLIS. Posts. Miles. Roye * * * § 1 . . 272 Conchy-Ies-Pots 1|.. 280:^ Cuvilly ...... 1 . . 285| Gournayf .... 1 .. 291^ * Roye contains 3,000 inhabitants, and has some ex- tensive manufactories of stockings and cottton. f About half way between Gournay and Bois-de- Lihus, a noble view presents itself of the country through which the traveller has passed. Arsonval and the wood of Monchy are seen on the left, the hill of Ganelon and the forest of Compeigne further otf, and the town of Gournay behind. A little before he arrives at Bois-de-Lihus, another landscape, not inferior to the former, arrests the travel- ler’s attention. I Between Bois-de-Lihus and Pont St-Maxence, a little beyond Blincourt, is another pleasing view of the surrounding country ; and near the thirtieth milestone the road lies by a beautiful piece of water, with an island in the centre. § Pont-St.-Maxence contains 3,000 inhabitants, whose principal trade is in grain, combs, (of which there is a large manufactory) and leather. The bridge over the Oise is very fine. Part of it was destroyed in the hasty retreat of the French before the Allies, in 1815. Many parts of the town bear evident traces of its having been the scene of military conflict. II SENLIS has suffered yet more than Pont-St.-Max- ence. A sanguinary engagement took place in the neigh- bourhood, between Marshal Blucher, and Generals Grouchy and Vandamme, who were hastening to cover the French capital. Senlis is built on the banks of the Vouette, and is nearly surrounded by forests. It is a bishop’s see, and contains 4,000 inhabitants. The cathedral is a magnificent structure, and the steeple one of the highest in France. It has considerable trade in grain, wine, wood, and beautiful porcelain ; and has manufactories of cotton. Bois-de-Lihus + 1|.. 298| Pont-St.-Max- ence § 1 J . . 307 Senlis II 1^.. 315^ GONNESSE. 83 ' Posts, Miles. La Cliapelle . . l • • 320f Louvres=i^ Ig.. 329 Posts. Miles. Bourgetf .... 237| Paris 1| , . 345| coarse cloth, paper, lace, and buttons. Its bleaching- grouuds are extensive, and its quarries afford excellent stone. At the twenty-first mile-stone, before the traveller enters on the forest of Pontaimfe he has a noble view of Senlis behind him. * Louvres is a neat town, principally supported by the manufacture of lace. A little beyond the eleventh milestone is a beautiful prospect. The ninth stone being passed, Thillay is on the right, and Gonnesse a little be- yond it. Gonnesse carries on considerable trade in grain and flour, and has some large manufactories of soap. The bread which is made here is most excellent, and supplies great part of Paris. Gonnesse was the birth-place of Philip Augustus, of the third dynasty of the kings of France. A little farther on, and before the traveller arrives at the eighth milestone, he passes Arnouville on the right, situated on the banks of the river Cran, Hie park, which contains about 300 acres, although it is laid out in the old French style, is beautifully diversified with groves, lawns, cascades, and sheets of water. The appearance of the village is much admired. All the streets centre in a spacious lawn, ornamented by a noble fountain. f Beyond Bourget the road lies near Rincy, a chateau belonging to the duke of Orleans, the park and gardens of which are extremely picturesque. The forest of 1 Bondy is likewise skirted, of which the most tragical j tales are eagerly related by every peasant, I The villages which now occur will be described in another part of our work. Having passed Noisy, Ro- mainville, and Pantin, on the left, the traveller reaches the village of La Villette. The numerous windmills of Montmartre are seen on the right, and the Hamlet of La Chapelle. Pr6s-Saint-Gervais is on the left, with its little hills prettily covered with vineyards and orchards. Moutfaucou 8 84 « IlOUTE TO DOVER. FROM LONDON TO PARIS BY DOVER AND OSTEND. Bricklayers’ Arms . M lies. ... 1^ Half-way House .. ... n Hatcham ... 2| New Cross ... Sh Deptford Bridge . ... Blackheath ... 31 Shooter’s Hill ... 81 Welling ... lOi Bexley Heath .. . . ... 11^ Cray ford Hartford Horn’s Cross Northdeet Gravesend Chalk Street ... 23^ Gad’s Hill Stroud Rochester Chatham Star Inn Miles. Rainliam 34^ Moor Street 34| Newington Street .... 36 Key Street 38 Chalkw'ell 39 Sittingbourne 39^- Rapchild 41t^ Green Street 42^ Ospring 46^ Boughton Street 49 Boughton Hill 30 Harbledowii 52^ Canterbury 55 ^ Bridge 58^- Half-way House .... 62f Lydden 63 Ewell 67f Buckland 69^ Dover 71 [From Ostend to Paris, see the foregoing Head.] FROM LONDON TO PARIS BY RYE AND BOULOGNE. Miles. New Cross Turnpike . 3^ Lewisham 5^ Southend 7^ Branley* 9| Mason’s Hill ........ lOh Miles. Farnborough 14 Madam’s Court Hill.. 19§ Riverhead 22 Seven Oaks 23^ Tunbridge 30 Montfaucon is on the right, and the rising grounds and quarries of Belleville ; leaving which, the traveller en- ters Paris by the suburb and gate of St. Martin. ROUTE TO PORTSMOUTH. 85 Woodgate . . Lamberhurst Stone Crouch Flimwell .... Highgate .... [From Boulogne to Paris, Miles. . 35 . 40 . 42f - 44 | . 47i Miles. Newenden ... * 52^ North iam 54| Beckley 57 Peasemarch 59 Rye 63 see the route by Calais and Amiens to Paris.] FROM LONDON TO PARIS BY PORTSMOUTH AND HAVRE. Newington Miles. Vauxhall .... H Wandsworth .... 5i Putney Heath . . . Kingston. Thames Ditton . . . Esher Cobham Street . . . Ripley , ... 23 Guildford Catherine Hill . . . Godaiming ... 33^ Milford Miles. Hindhead Hill 40| Liphook 45| Rake •• 49J Sheet Bridge 52| Petersfield 54 Horndean 61| Bere Forest 64^ Purbeck Heath 65^ Portsdown 66| Cosham 67^ Portsea Bridge 67f Portsmouth 72 CROSS FROM PORTSMOUTH TO HAVRE.* Posts. Miles. ] Posts. Miles. Havre — •• 185 [LaBotte.... 2 .. 196 * HAVRE-DE-GRACE is situated at the mouth of the Seine, and owes its origin to Louis XII., who laid the foundations of the town in 1509. Francis I. fortified it, and Cardinal Richelieu built a citadel at his own expense. The safety of the harbour, its proximity to the capita), and the ease with which it communicates with so many departments by means of the Seine and numerous canals, I 86 HAVUE-DE-GRACE. Posts. Miles. I Posts. Milesr Bo lf)ec^ ..... .li^. . . .203^ \ Alltqnerville . . . .210^ render it one of the most flourishing seaports in the king- dom. Few harbours are so easily accessible. Vessels can enter it with almost every wind, and the tide does not begin to ebb until nearly three hours after high water. The harbour is capable of containing more than 100 men-of-war of the largest size. The late emperor con- templated the most gigantic improvements. He pur- posed to have constructed a basin, which should have held 960 ships of war, and of which 560 could float at one time. The citadel and arsenal are noble buildings, and on a high perpendicular cliff to the east, are two lofty light- houses. The walk to them is very pleasing. The town has nothing prepossessing in its appearance ; on the con- trary, the woodwork in front of most of the houses is both uncouth and mean : but the views from the ram- parts and the citadel will be much admired. Havre was bombarded in 1694, and again in 1759. It has manufactories of tobacco, vitriol, starch, rope, paper, and lace ; and contains 16,000 inhabitants. The principal inns are the Welccane, the Golden Eagle, and the Town of Havre. Diligences start every morning for Rouen, for which place, and no farther, the traveller should engage a seat, unless he is anxious to arrive at Paris, and cannot spare one day for the antiquities and beauties of Rouen. As he quits Havre on his road to La Botte, he will not fail to admire the noble avenue through which he passes, and the beauties that every step presents, until he reaches the village of Jagonville. To this succeeds Graville, a village most singularly built, for it is said that the principal street is, with some intervals, more than five miles in length. Beyond this is Harfleur, now an inconsiderable place, but" not uncelebrated in the history of France. At a little distance from Harfleur is another prospect which rivals those in the immediate vicinity of Havre. * BOLBEC is a small town on the right bank of the river of the same name. Its serges, of the most beautiful ROUTE TO HARWICH. 87 Posts. Miles. I Posts.' Miles. Yvetot* * I Rouen ....... ,2 ....240i Barentinf . . . . 2 ^. . . .229| | [From Rouen to Paris, see the route from Dieppe to that city.] FROM LONDON TO PARIS, THROUGH HEL- VOETSLUY.S, ANTWERP, AND BRUSSELS. Miles. Mile End 1 Stratford le Bow 2^ Stratford (Essex) SJ : Ilford 7 Chad well Street 9 Romford 12 Hare Street 13 Brook Street 16i Brentwood 18 Shenfield 19 Mountrassing Street .. .21 Ingatestone 23 Margretting Street ... .25 Stisted 26^ Widford Bridge 27| Chelmsford 29 ! Boreharn Street 32i Mites. Ratfield Peverell 34^ Witham 37^ Rivenhall End. 39| Kelvedon 41 Marks Tey 45^ Stanway 47 Lexden 49 Colchester 51 Greenstead 52 Ardleigh .56 Wignel Street 58 1 Mistley Thorn 61 Bradfield 63 Ramsey 68 Dover Court 69J Harwich 71 ^ ■colours and patterns, are in request in every part of France. It contains 5,000 inhabitants. The traveller is presented with another interesting prospect on quitting Bolbec. • YVETOT, with 10,000 inhabitants, has many manu- factories of cloths, tickings, velvets, cottons, and hats, f A little before the traveller reaches the village of ! Barentin, which has a manufactory of velvet, linen, and i paper, he will take notice of a lovely landscape near j Saint Andr6. Between Barentin and Rouen the road is thickly set with villages and chateaux, and the approach I to the capital of Normandy is peculiarly fine. I 2 BRILL, CROSS OVER TO HELVOETS.LUYS. Posts. Miles. I Posts. Miles. Helvoetsluys*.. — ....178^ j Brill f * For a very minute description of this route, I beg leave to refer the reader to Mr. Boyce’s “ Belgian Tra- veller,” a compagnon de voyage, without which no person should visit the Netherlands, and in which he will possess a complete guide to every thing that can interest the mer- chant, the naturalist, or the tourist of pleasure. Fof many of the remarks in the notes on this route I am indebted to him, while I have added some things that either escaped his acute observation, or were omitted from the pressure of what he deemed more important matter. HELVOETSLUYS is a neat town on the banks of the Sluice, from which it derives its name. The harbour will contain the whole navy of Holland. A crowd of porters will surround the traveller the moment he sets foot on the quay, as at Calais and Dieppe, eagerly contending which shall carry his luggage; but he will recollect that they differ much from the French porters, and cannot be trusted one moment out of his sight. It is rarely that the French porter will either make an extravagant charge, or purloin the smallest article ; but the Dutchman, ex- cept a bargain be made beforehand, will insist on the most exorbitant recompence for his trouble, and will possibly find some opportunity Of farther repaying him- self at the stranger’s expense. The best inn at Helvoetsluys, for an Englishman, is Hobson’s. The usual conveyance to Brill, is by the coach. f BRILL is the capital of the island of Voorn, and is situated at the mouth of the Meuse. The traveller should here take a boat for Rotterdam. They sail every tide, and reach Rotterdam in three hours. As he proceeds up the river, he passes the little town of Flaarding on his left, celebrated for the grotesque habiliments of the inhabitants. Next is Schiedam, fa- mous for its distilleries of geneva; and to this succeed Delftshaven, employed solely in the herring fishery. Nothing can be more delightful than this excursion. Rotterdam^ Stryensaas . Moerdyk ... Cruystaeste ANTWERP. 89 Post*. Miles. Posts. Miles. ...2i... .199^ Coin d’Argent . .3^. . ..257 ..3i... .218f Anvers, or Antwerp t . .Sf . ..If... ...2 ... .2261 .237f . . .275 * ROTTERD \M is the second city in Holland, and contains 53,000 inhabitants. The peculiar style of Dutch building is more than usually prevalent here. The houses are very lofty, and, projecting forward as they ascend, are frequently two or three yards out of the per- pendicular. The gable-end is towards the street, and most ludicrously painted with diftereiit colours. The canals running through every street constitute another peculiarity of the Dutch towns. The canals of Rotterdam wi4 permit ships of the greatest burden to penetrate into the heart of the city, and unload at the very doors of the warehouses. The town-house, the bank, and the arsenal, will be the principal objects of the traveller’s curiosity. The sub- urbs are pleasant, and filled with the country-houses of the merchants. The principal inns are the Boar’s Head, the Marshal de Turenne, and the Court of Berlin. The traveller may proceed to Brussels by post-chaise, diligence, or treksckuit (passage-boat). Mr. Boyce gives a very curious description of the two last. A diligence starts for Antwerp every day, and trek- schuits almost every hour. The latter afford the cheap- est and the most pleasant mode of conveyance ; the former is more expeditious. f ANTWERP is a large and ancient city, bearing evident traces of former magnificence. It was once the chief mart of Flemish commerce, and contained 200,000 inhabitants. It now scarcely numbers 50,000 ; it has, however, rapidly increased in population and wealth since the free navigation of the Scheldt has been esta- blished. The cathedral is an exquisite specimen of light Gothic architecture ; it is of immense height, and of the most perfect proportions. Before the Revolution it was en- riched by a collection of paintings, by the best masters I 3 90 MECHLIN. Posts. Miles. Malines, or Mechiiu* . . 2| . . 2904 Posts. Miles. Vilvorde f . . 14 . . 298^ of the Flemish school. The spire is 460 feet high, and the beautiful carving of its pinnacles has sustained without injury the ravages of nearly eight centuries. The citadel is a noble building, and is supposed to be one of the strongest fortresses in Holland. Many of the streets are superb. The Place de Mer is truly unrivalled. The docks are esteemed the most complete in the world, and will be carefully examined by the traveller. The town-hall is built entirely of marble, and the ex- change formed a model for that of London. The best inns are the Golden Lion, the Crown, the Bear, and the English Hotel. From Antwerp to Mechlin, the villages present them- selves in almost uninterrupted succession. There is no point of the road from which some village spire may not be seen. The scenery likewise, although flat, is not unpleasing ; and the country is in the highest state of cultivation. * MECHLIN, or MALINES, is a large town on the Dyle, containing 17,000 inhabitants. It has long been celebrated for its lace ; but the greater part of what is called the Mechlin lace is manufactured elsewhere. The cathedral of Mechlin is an enormous pile, and impressive principally from its extraordinary dimensions. The tower is an unwieldy structure of vast diameter, and, although unfinished, 350 feet high. It is visible to an immense distance in every direction. The principal inns are the Crane, the Cup, the Court of France, and the imperial Court. The road from Mechlin to Brussels is almost flat, and intersected by innumerable canals. f VILVORDE contains many handsome convents and monasteries. Here Tindal, who first translated the New Testament into English, suffered martyrdom. Should the traveller not have engaged his place in the diligence to Brussels, he \vill find it more pleasant to pro- BRUSSELS. 91 Posts. Miles. Bruxelles, or Brussels* l ; . . 305;^- ceed thither in a treckschuit on the canal. Tiie hanks of the canal, during the whole distance, are almost com- pletely covered by gardens and pleasure-grounds, inter- spersed with hotels, manufactories, and mills. Near Brussels the river and canal flow through a gentle valley, the numerous chateaux on the sides of which have an un- commonly pleasing appearance. The magnificent palace of Schoenberg is here seen to much advantage. Approaching yet nearer to the city, the traveller passes the favourite promenade of the inha- bitants of Brussels. It is an avenue of two miles in length, shaded by lofty trees, and commanding many pleasing views of the city, the canal, the river, and the innumerable chateaux on their banks. * BRUSSELS may now be termed the capital of the kingdom of the United Netherlands. It is built on the side of a hill, the lower part of which is called the Old Town, while the upper part is occupied by the more fashionable inhabitants. The streets are spacious and airy, and the houses lofty and well built. A principal object of curiosity is the town-hall. It is a beautiful Gothic edifice, and has been much admired. The tower, which is strangely placed at a considerable distance from the centre, is .364 feet high, and is sur- mounted by a gigantic statue of St. Michael, which serves as a weathercock. The town-hall occupies one side of a square, composed of antiquated buildings of a most sin- gular appearance. They are dissimilar in their structure, and dissimilar in their style of architecture, yet they form a pleasing whole. The principal market is held here. The exterior of the cathedral is very grand, but the effect of the interior is destroyed by a set of miserable statues athxed to the pillars, and a more miserable set of daubings with which the walls are covered. The park is an immense square of splendid buildings, and is certainly equal to any thing of the kind in Europe. The centre is occupied by a beautiful garden, ornamented by lawns, fountains, and statues. The royal palace, and 92 WATERLOO. tlie houses of the principal nobility, form part of this beautiful square. The ramparts, and particularly those of the upper part ef the town, afford a delightful view of the surrounding country, and are much frequented by the inhabitants. The principal inns are the Flemish, the Swedish, and the New-York Hotels, the Hotel d’Angleteire, the Prince of Wales, the Hotel de Flandre, and the Belle-Vue: the three last are in the Place Royale, near the park. The Mint, the Friendship, and the Grand Coffee-House, are the caf^s most frequented. A very particular and pleas- ing account of this city will be found in a publication, entitled, “ New Picture of Brussels and its Environs.” No Englishman wall pursue his route to the French metropolis until he has devoted one day to the field of Waterloo. The village of Waterloo is nine miles from Brussels. The road to it is through the forest of Soignies. The view of Brussels, a little before the entrance of the forest, is deservedly admired; but, after this, nothing but a tangled impervious forest presents itself for eight miles, occasionally relieved by a few scattered hamlets. The traveller emerges from the forest at the village of Waterloo ; where, perhaps, he will pause a moment to read the simple tablets in the little church, the affection- ate tribute of their surviving companions to the memory of a few of those who “ gloriously fell in the battles of Quatre-Bras and Waterloo.” More than a mile from Waterloo is the hamlet of Mount-St.-John, where a road branches off to the right towards Nivelle. The forest has here quite disappeared. The road suddenly rises, and the traveller, by an easy ascent, gains a kind of ridge. This ridge, and the ground behind it, was occupied by the British array. A solitary tree raises its straggling branches, and yet bears evident marks of the bullets which shattered its trunk. This was the centre of the British position ; and, as the Duke of Wellington was posted on this spot during the greater part of the day, it is immortalized by the name of the Wellington Tree. The British lines extended along this ridge to the right WATERLOO. 95 and left, defended on the left by a hedge, which reaches from Mount-St.-John towards Ohain. On the extreme right, following the natural direction of the ridge, they turned Ji)ack towards Brussels, and were protected by a ravine. In front is a little valley, not regularly formed, but with numerous gentle windings and hollows. It varies jn breadth from a quarter to half a mile. This was the scene of the murderous conflict. The opposite ridges, and running almost parallel to those of Mount-St.-John, were occupied by the French. A little in front of the tree, and close by the road, is La Haye Sainte, the object of the second desperate attack in the middle of the battle ; and near which the conflict took place between the imperial guards and the British, that decided the fate of the day. To the right, and nearly in the centre of the valley, is the chateau de Goumont (called Hougomont in the de- spatches.) It continues to bear sad marks of the injuries which it suffered. On the left is the farm of Ter-La- Haye, where the ground becoming w oody and irregular, presented a strong position for the termination of the British lines. Pursuing the road to Charleroj^, and on the ridge exactly opposed to the British centre, is La Belle Al- liance. It was the position of Buonaparte during the greater part of the engagement, until he advanced to a kind of sand-bank, when he headed the last charge ; and it was the spot on which Wellington and Blucher met after the battle was decided. With these hints the traveller will immediately recog- nise the most interesting situations of the field. A detailed account of the sanguinary conflict would be foreign to the object of this work. The most accurate and intelligible accounts of the battle will be found in “ Paul’s Letters to his Kinsfolk,” and in the second volume of “ Boyce’s Second Usurpa- tion of Buonaparte.” To the accuracy of this last w l iter in his computation of the numbers of the opposing armies, so different from what are usually assigned, Buo- naparte himself has given his voluntary testimony. MONS, 91 Posts. Miles. HaH .. .3l6i La Genette. .. n .. 324| Soignies. . . . .... H .. 333 Monst. .... .. 344 Posts. Miles. BOUSSU....,,. .. 352t Quievrain. . . . .. 359^ Valenciennes^. 1^ .. 367| * The road from Brussels to Hal, and indeed from Brussels to the French frontier, is extremely beautiful. It is varied by a succession of hills and valleys, which form a pleasing contrast with the marshy flats of Hol- land, and the open country of France. The cottages which present themselves at every turning of the road are clean and substantial, and whitewashed every year. The soil is in the highest state of cultivation, and not an inch is lost. The valleys and slopes are covered with flocks, and the summits of the hills are uniformly clothed with woods. f MONS is situated in a low swampy plain, yet it forms a pleasing object as the traveller descends the hill, through the wood, to approach it. The castle, the arsenal, the town-hall, and the church, merit the traveller’s attention. The latter is said to oc- cupy the site of a castle built by Julius Caesar. The chief manufactures are woollen stuffs, linen, lace, and earthenware; and it contains 25,000 inhabitants. The best inns are the Austrian Hotel, and the Great Stag. Three miles from Mons, on the road to Boussu, is Je- raappe, celebrated for the victory of Dumourier over the Austrians. The remains of some of the Austrian redoubts are yet visible. The features of the country are now essentially changed. Scarcely a rising ground occurs for many miles. Yet the landscape is not unpleasing. The cottages and villages succeed each other almost without interruption ; and the habitations of the peasantry are clean and comfortable. Now and then extensive meadows are seen, which might better deserve the name of marshes ; yet the land usually appears most highly cultivated, and is plentifully covered with wood. I At a small distance from VALENCIENNES, the spires are seen rising above the houses, and not one ap- BOUGHAIN. — CAMBRAY. m Pests. Miles. Boucliain* * . . . .2^. . . .380 Cauabrayf 2 ....391 Bonavy 1|. . . .399^ [For a continuation of the Posts. Miles. Fins . . .4077^ Peionne ...... 2 ....418.^ )ute to Paris, see page 81.] pearance of fortification can be discerned ; but on a nearer approach, the high walls, the deep ditches, and the massive gates convey an idea of almost impregna- ble strength. The siege which it underwent at the com- mencement of the revolutionary war will not soon be forgotten. The place at which the English forced their entrance is shewn to the traveller, and the impressions of the balls are not yet effaced. The citadel was con- structed by the celebrated Vauban. The town is large and populous. It contains 18,000 inhabitants, but the streets are narrow and crooked. The great square, however, is very handsome. It was the birth-place of the historian Froissard, and the painter Wateau ; and is said to be indebted for its origin to the Emperor Valentinian I., in the year 867, To people it, he resorted to the measures which Romulus bad employed, and offered an asylum to all who fled from their creditors, or the vengeance of the law. The Christian is the best inn, and Madame Gonion’s the most frequented coffee-house. • BOUCHAIN is a pretty well-fortified town, and was built by Pepin the Short, in commemoration of a victory which he gained in the neighbourhood over Thierry, king of the Goths. t CAMBRAY is a handsome town, containing 15,000 inhabitants. The streets are well built ; and the great square is much admired. It was formerly celebrated for its magnificent cathedral, which was supposed to be the finest in France. A few ruins alone have escaped the ravages of the early period of the Revolution : these, however, indicate that the edifice was constructed in the most perfect style of architecture. The new cathedral is very inferior. The town-hail is of modern architecture, and well built. The suo'^lial is reraaci kable 96 DUTY ON CARRIAGES, HORSES, &C. The citadel, placed on an eminence, is very magnifi- cent. Carnbray v/as the residence of the immortal Fenelon. Soon after passing Carnbray, the appearance of the country is again changed. To a thickly- wooded soil, most highly cultivated, with many a village-spire rising - above the tufts of trees in every direction, succeed the straight roads, the clipped elms, and the boundless plains of France ; often presenting not a single human habitation for many miles. The traveller is frequently surprised at the appearance of depopulation which pre- vails in many parts of France ; and perhaps hastily con- cludes that her peasantry have been almost destroyed by the wars of the Revolution. Had he, however, traversed Iier provinces in her happier days, he would have wit- nessed the same character of desolation. It is to be accounted for in the following manner. — In France, the farmers and the peasants do not, as in Eng- land and in the Netherlands, live in detached cottages or houses on the grounds which they occupy, but are congregated in villages and towns, sometimes three or four miles from the place of their labour. The farmer has not even the slightest shed on his farm, but leaves his village with his ploughs and his waggons every morn- ing, and journeys many miles to his daily task. In Pi- cardy, Artois, and Normandy, the cottages are sprinkled over the country, but in almost every other part of France the eye wanders over a boundless plain, culti- vated with the utmost care, bui no trace of human habi- tation can be discerned. DUTY ON CARRIAGES, HORSES, &c. On leaving England, a carriage with four wheels pays a duty of 10s. in the 100^. value ; but it is not necessary to give in the intrinsic value, they are generally entered at from 502. to 1502. When a carriage is landed in France, the owner pays one-third of whatever value he may think proper to put upon it : care must be taken not to be too much under the real value. If the car- riage leaves France within two years, three-fourths of. DUTY ON CAIIIIIAGES, HORSES, &C. 97 the money so deposited will be returned, on producing his memorandum. If the traveller return through Bel- gium, he must ask for the money before he leaves the French frontier. A gig, or any other two-wheeled carriage, pays the same duties. On leaving England, the duty on a horse is SZ. 2s. be- sides 10s. in the lOOZ. according to its value. On arriv- ing in France, the duty is 15 francs for a horse, and 5 francs for a pony. Books, plate, linen, and houseliold furniture, pay 10s. in the lOOZ. according to the value. When landed in France they pay l5s. in the lOOZ. according to the value. New harness and carpets are prohibited in France, but not in Belgium. All cutlery wares are prohibited in France, but not in Belgium. In Belgium the duty on carriages is one-tenth of their value. In Belgium the duty on horses is 8 francs. The freight of a carriage with four wheels from Lon- don to Calais or Ostend, is 4Z. 4#. A gig, or any two- wheeled carriage, 3Z. 3s. A horse, 31, 3s, K 98 ARRIVAL AT PARIS. HOTELS. Ir the traveller arrive by the Calais or the Dieppe dili- gence, he will probably be taken to the Messagerie, Rue Notre Danie des Victoires, or Rue Coquiliere. On arriving in a foreign country it is of importance that the traveller should be recommended to a com- fortable hotel; and we have great pleasure in men- tioning Meurice’s City of London Hotel, Rue St. Honore, which is the most extensive and commodious in Paris, and particularly adapted for Englishmen. Some idea may be formed of the establishment from the following regulations ; — REGULATIONS Of Meurice’s City of London Hotels Rue St. Honors. Apartments . — At the hotels in Paris they are in the habit of letting apartments for not less than eight days ; it has been Meurice’s custom to let them for four, being compelled to so do by the heavy demands made by the Postilions and Commissioners of diligences on ail Pro- prietors of hotels for the company they bring to the houses, and unless their demands are complied with, travellers even when they are strongly recommended by Meurice’s friends to his house, are often carried to other hotels, being told there is no accommodation, when it is well known there is abundant room. Meurice having ascertained that it is the custom in England to accom- modate for a single day, and anxious to meet the wishes of the English, to whom he owes so many obligations, he is disposed to let his apartments by the day ; at the same REGULATIONS, &C. 99 time it would be a favour if, on their aiTival, their inten- f tion being to stay only one day or two, they would have j the goodness to signify the same at the office as early as convenient, to enable him so to regulate his concerns as not to disappoint those who may be in want of apart- ■ ments. The price of each article being fixed, the daily ex- pense may be readily calculated ; the charge of children from four to seven or eight years of age. will be for each meal half price ; large families desirous of passing some of the winter months, beginning the 1st of October to i the 1st of May, in this hotel, may make arrangements on very advantageous terms. Gentlemen are mostparticularly and earnestly requested to be careful of their lights, the furniture, &c., and not to leave the key of their rooms in the door. Breakfasts. — Are served in the coffee-room or in private i apartments. Tea or Coffee, with Sugar, Bread, Butter, and > f. s. Eggs 5 2 10 Ditto without Eggs 2 0 Beefsteak or Cutlets, &c 3 10 Table (VHdte . — Is served at five o’clock precisely, com- posed of the best English and French dishes, at 4f. 10s. each, exclusive of wine ; and in order that due provision may be made, it is necessary to give notice in the morn- ing, by those who intend to dine, either at the bar or the office. Private Dinners. — Are served in the apartments for any number of persons at any rate from 8f. upwards, except for large families, which will be regulated from 6f. up- wards, in proportion to the number and quality of the dishes ordered. f. s. Evenings. — Tea, with Bread and Butter 2 0 Tea only 1 lo Coffee, Bread and Butter 2 0 Coft'ee only 1 0 100 REGULATIONS OE Lights.— ‘In order that the dining-room, jcoffee-room, staircases, courts, &c. may be well lighted, a charge of 6 sous each person per day is made, independent of those required for private dinners. Servants belonging to Gentlemen and Families — Are lodged and boarded in the house, as under : — f. s. Tea for Breakfast, with Bread and Butter. ... 1 5 Dinner, without Wine or Beer 2 0 Lodging, per day 1 5 Dinner is served in the servants’ hall at two o’clock precisely. Washing . — The linen being washed three miles from Paris with soap, and not beaten or brushed as is the custom generally in France, and particular care being taken of it, Mr. Meurice is obliged to make a trifling addition to the customary charge. Servants of the Hotel — Being very numerous, the head waiter receives for the whole, and which is equally divided between them. To prevent the inconvenience arising ge- nerally from no fixed sura being determined, M. Meurice suggests that one franc per person be given per day as a compensation for the whole, except ^e cleaning of the boots, shoes, and clothes, which is performed by the porter and charged in the bills. Bills . — From the capital necessary to carry on a con- cern of this nature, bills are presented weekly, at which time it is requested they may be paid either to Mr. or Mrs. Meurice or their son. Interpreters and Valets de Place . — At the oflice will be furnished Interpreters and Valets de Place, competent for the purpose, from 4 to 6f. per day. Superintendent of Carriages . — A person is attached to the hotel in the Court of Rivoli : his duty is to take care of the carriages, wash them, and put them in travelling condition, for 4f., independent of repairs, finds cord for portmanteaus, and attaches them to the carriage for if. each box. Tradesmen.—GeiatlQmen will find in the counting-house the address different tradesmen of known rcspecta- meurice’s hotel. lOi bility, to whom they may address themselves with confi- dence : it is with the desire to prevent imposition that the present recommendation is given, M. Meurice having no connexion or interest therein. In case of purchases being made, it is necessary to give the number of the apartment with the address, to prevent mistakes. Passports. —It is necessary to conform strictly to the regulation of the police to avoid inconvenience. Passports must be deposited at the office immediately on arrival, in order to be inserted in the police-book. The regulations of the police varying frequently, gen- tlemen are requested to make inquiries at the office, where every possible information will be afforded them ; but it is necessary to observe, as they are subjected to four different visits, they cannot be obtained in less than two days. For the accommodation of those who may wish to avoid this trouble, it will be done at the office for 3f. Letters . — Letters for England and America leave on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday, before noon, and it is necessary to pay the postage, which is 14 sous each single letter : they must be left at the office be- fore half-past eleven on the days before-mentioned, and each must be marked on the back with the number of the writer’s apartment, that the price of franking may be charged to their account . Letters arrive from England on Saturday, Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, and may be had at the counting- house on payment of the postage to the clerk, , Letters for the interior of France may be sent every day, free of charge, by being left at the office before half- past one. Letters addressed Poste restante, may be had on a per- sonal application, or by sending a servant with your pass- port; tlie general post-office, Rue Platriere, formerly J. J. Rousseau. Remarks . — ^Twelve o’clock is the time fixed for shutting the grand saloon, and gentlemen are requested not to leave it without taking with them their hats, sticks, umbrellas, &c. to prevent mistake. K 3 102 . meurice’s hotel. Smoking is not permitted v»rithin the dining or coffee- room. English and French papers are provided in the coffee- room for the use of the gentlemen in the house, and are not to be taken therefrom into any private apartment, nor is any servant or valet de place permitted to enter therein, unless to seek his master. No commissioner, servant, &c. can be permitted to enter a gentleman’s apartment, without having obtained permission at the office; nor can any female bringing linen, parcels, &c. unless in the day-time. Horses and carriages for all parts of the Continent, particularly for Calais. Carriages and Valets de Place. — Mr. Meurice furnishes horses and carriages of every description, both for town and travelling, fit for the purpose, having undergone a thorough inspection in his yard ; to avoid any confusion in the house, by the introduction of improper servants, he trusts gentlemen will apply to him for the valets de place, as he makes strict inquiry relative to their cha- racter; and as he is responsible, it cannot be expected he can answer for strangers. In the office every information will be afforded relative to the route and the expenses thereon. Waggons for the carriage of baggage and goods to all parts of France and the Continent. Some complaints having reached the editor, respect- ing the mode of serving up the dinners at the table d’hote, he feels confident that a single hint will be suffi- cient, and from the well-known character of Mr. Meu- rice, there can be no doubt that should any reasonable complaint be preferred, it will be instantly remedied. Travellers have complained of the price of wood for fires; but the scarcity of fuel in Paris is a sufficient excuse for that particular charge. I recommend this hotel to Englishmen who know but little of French, for the following reasons: the master speaks the English language fluently, the waiters speak English, the accommodation is completely in HOTELS. 103 the English style, and the visiters are usually from the British islands, 'idle traveller will not here feel him- self alone in a foreign land ; but, amidst the constant and rapid influx of new guests, will recognise some one whom he can claim as an acquaintance, or with whom he can associate as a friend : and when the emotions of novelty and surprise have subsided in his own bosom, it will afford him an inexhaustible fund of amusement to witness the various and often ludicrous ways in which ever}'^ new-comer reveals the impression which the first sight of Paris has made on his mind. To whatever hotel the traveller goes, he will feel himself perfectly at his ease. He will study his conve- nience and health ; nor will he be compelled to order a single meal, or drink a single glass more than he wishes, for the sake of the house. He is not even obliged to eat or drink at all in the hotel at which he lodges. He pays for his apartments, and the master is satisfied with that payment. He may order his break- fast in his own room from the cafe^ and his dinner from the restaurateur; or he may breakfast in the coffee-i room, and dine at the table d^hote ; or he has the whole of Paris before him, and may choose his own cafe, and his own traiteur. Whether he eats and drinks at his hotel, or elsewhere, he has this advantage, that he knows by the bill of fare precisely what every article will cost, and may regulate his expenses according to his means or his pleasime. At the following hotels the traveller will find good accommodation. Hotel d’’ Angleterre, Rue des Filles St. Thomas, which is, likewise, much frequented by English families, but neither the mistress nor the waiters can speak English. The accommodation is more iu the French style. The greater part of the rooms have tiles instead of boai’ds, and not even the vestige of a carpet. Hotel de Clery, Rue de Clery : this and the Hotel d’ Angleterre are not unreasonable. Hotel du 104 ^ HOTELS. Prince Regent^ Rue du Faubourg St. Honore : the apartments are here most splendid, the accommodations in a more fashionable style, and the charge propor- tionably greater. Hotel de Boston, Rue Vivienne : this is likewise adapted to the higher classes of travellers, who can afford to pay for magnificent furniture and splendid decoration. Hot^l de Londres, Place Ven- dome, is an elegant house, and generally filled with good company. Hgtel Qiuoquilihe, Rue Coquiliere ; a cheap house for English travellers. Hotel de Bourbon, Rue de la Paix : a handsome house, entirely a French house. The Hotel d^ Artois, Rue d* Artois ; Hotel de Choiseul, Rue de Richelieu / Hotel d!* Europe, Rue de Richelieu ; Hotel Grange Bateliere, Rue Pinon ; Hotel de la Manne, Rue Vivienne; Hotel Wagram, Rue de la Paix ; Hotel de V Amiraute, Rue Neuve St. Augustin ; Hotel de Chatham, Rue Neuve St. Augustin ; Hotel de Houvres, Rue de la Paix; Hotel de V Empire, Rue d^ Artois ; Hotel de Nelson, Rue Neuve St. Augustin ; ^nd the Hotel de Paris, Boidevard de la Madelairw, have their respective admirers, and are much fre- quented. The Hotel de V Echiquier, formerly kept by Mr. Meu- rice, is a good hotel for English travellers, and the charges are very moderate. In all of these, the traveller pays for his apartment by the night or the week, including bed-linen ; nor is he expected to do more than inhabit the apai’tment. His fire, candles, &c. are paid for separately. In con- sequence of the scarcity of fuel in Paris, the traveller will find it very expensive to be there in winter, for the firing for one day will cost him more than a good dinner. Should a cafe be attached to the hotel, the traveller ought seldom to wander from it for his breakfast j for there he will be most comfortably and expeditiously HOTELS. 105 served. If he does not dine at the table d'hote, he should resort to some neighbouring traiteiir (eating- house.) The dinner of a single person in his own apartment, is seldom well attended to by the restaurateur of the hotel. It either is not served punctually to the time, or it is cold, or ill dressed. A party, however, may at all times depend on the strictest attention. It will surprise the traveller to be informed that many of the hotels furnish a breakfast only, and some of them not even this; and that the whole provision of the guest must often be procured from a neighbouring cafe, or traiteur. Most of them, however, will supply him with genuine wine, at no exorbitant price. If the tourist remains in Paris only a few weeks, he cannot do better than establish himself at one of these hotels, and breakfast and dine at the cafe and table d'hote of the hotel, or wherever his inclination or con- venience may lead him. Should he remain in Paris some months, it will be more economical to hire furnished lodgings in a private house. These are easily procured in every part of the metropolis. In the centre of the city they are expen- sive ; on the Boulevards they are more moderate, and exceedingly pleasant ; and in the Faubourgs they are extremely reasonable. I would, nevertheless, warn the single traveller, that the manners of the French, and their domestic arrange- ments, are so different from those to which he has been accustomed, and the inattention and neglect, nay, want of cleanliness, of the French servants are so great, that he will probably experience much inconvenience by adopting this plan. He will likewise find it almost impossible to have a single meal procured for him by the people of the house ; and he will be compelled, as in the hotels, to bargain with a traiteur to send his breakfast and his dinner, which will be frequently cold, and generally irregular; or he must go to tlie traiteur’s 106 CAFES. for every meal, however unpleasant may be the wea- ther, or however it may break in on his arrangements or concerns. A party, or a family, who have their English or French domestics with them, will find it economical, and not very inconvenient, to hire furnished apartments. They will not, indeed, be supplied with many articles of fiuniture, and many culinary utensils, which, in their native country, are deemed indispensably necessaiy; but they will easily obtain a few of them from the landlord, if he be seriously expostidated with; and they can hire or purchase others. The Paris markets are well supplied, and provisions of every kind are very cheap. At a few houses, the stranger may board as well as lodge. The terms are generally not unreasonable; but the comfort of the inmate must depend altogether on the character and habits of those with whom he takes up his residence. Cafes, Coffee-Houses. There are supposed to be nearly 1000 coffee-houses in Paris. Many of them display a degree of splendour and elegance of which the stranger could previously form no conception; and even in the very meanest, vases, statues, and mirrors, reaching nearly to the ground, form a strange contrast with the filthiness of the walls, and the meanness of the furniture. A considerable proportion of the Parisian’s life is spent in the cafe. Although he has an establishment at home, he frequently breakfasts at the cafe ; he resorts thither at noon for his dejeuner froid d la fourchette (his luncheon), composed of sandwiches, chops, sau- sages, eggs, patesj with Burgundy, or some other excel- CAFES. 107 lent wine. He peruses the journals, plays at draughts, chess, tric-trac, dominos, or billiarcfs (cards are not allowed) ; he converses on the news of the day, criti- cises the performance of various actors, or descants on the merits of the last new play. After dinner he returns for his coffee or his liqueurs; and when he comes from the theatre, he wiles away another hour over his lemonade, his biscuit, or his ice. From nine o’clock in the morning until midnight, the cafes are incessantly crowded. Gentlemen and ladies promiscuously occupy the boxes. The frequent appearance of women of character and virtue at every place of public resort; the perfect ease with which they converse with their male companions, and even with strangers; the subjects to which they listen with complacency, and which they appear to understand perfectly well ; are circumstances that astonish the tra- veller, and which he cannot reconcile with his English ideas of modesty and female delicacy. In the more respectable cafhy the most perfect order and decorum prevail. The conversation is carried on in a low tone of voice ; the waiters appear to divine the wants and to understand the motions of every guest ; and, as the ladies form a part of the company, the Frenchman deems it as unpolite to sit with his hat on his head in the cafe as he would in the drawing ; room. In an alcove tastefully adorned, or on an elevated seat, sits what the Englishman newly arrived would call the bar-maid, but whom the Frenchman regards as the presiding goddess of the place. She usually boasts no small portion of native beauty, and that beauty is heightened by all the embellishment which the most costly and becoming dress can possibly afford. She greets every guest with a smile as he enters, and replies to his parting conge by a gracious inclination of the head. 108 CAFES* The Frenchman would consider it the height of pro- fanation to seat himself at his table, without first taking off his hat and paying his respects to her ; and he never quits the cafe without making her a profound bow. She listens with complacency to. the nothings which every petit-maitre in his turn whispers in her ear ; and her sole occupation is to offer herself unblushingly to the gaze of every eye, and to receive from the guests, or from the waiters, the money which each has to pay. The price of every article that the cafe affords is inscribed on a kind of bill of fare. The stranger is therefore liable to no imposition : and he may enter any respectable coffee-room, and engage in the con- versations and amusements of the place, without fear or suspicion. It will be prudent, however, for him to avoid political subjects, at least he should not express himself too strongly on state matters, for the Buona- partean system of espionage, is far from being abolished, and one hasty or indiscreet expression may subject him to much inconvenience. Into many of the cafh of the Palais Royal, and especially into the subterranean grottos, the tourist must enter with caution. They are too often the haunts of the needy and the designing. They are the harbour of gamblers and prostitutes ; and, if he is not perfectly aware of the company by which he is sur- rounded, he may be decoyed into hazardous play, and pillaged without mercy. The following are a few of the principal cafh : Cafe des Mille Colonnes, in the Palais Royal, so called because its beautiful gilt columns are reflected by enormous mirrors skilfully disposed, until they ap- pear to be at least a thousand. The glare of decora- tion that presents itself is very imposing. The priestess, or rather the divinity of this temple, is unrivalled for the beauty of her person, the splendour of her dress, and the elegance of her manners. Did the CAFES. 109 traveller repair to this cafe for no other purpose, he would be amply repaid for the trifling price of his re- freshments by observing the infinite grace with which she discharges the little duties of her office. The ele- vated seat which she occupies was once the throne of the viceroy of Italy, and was purchased by the pro- prietor of the coffee-house for the exorbitant sum of 12,000 livres. A young female friend, who has considerable claims to admiration, occasionally presides in the absence of the mistress. Cafe de Foi. This was the first coffee-house esta- blished in the Palais Royal, and it is inferior to few which that region of luxury and pleasure presents. Cafe du Caveau, and Cafe des Etrangers, in the Pa- lais Royal. The frequenters of these elegant rooms are often amused by very superior music and dancing. No additional charge is made for this delightful entertain- ment. This cafe has frequently changed its name to suit the caprice of the proprietor. Cafe Regence, Palais Royal. This is the favourite resort of chess-players. The admirers of that compli- cated, yet fascinating game, will always find amuse- ment here. Cafe Hardi, Boulevard des Italiens. This coffee-room is principally frequented by merchants and men of bu- siness. It is celebrated for its elegant and not exorbi- tant dejeunes froids. Cafe Manoury^ Place de PEcole, is the resort of the players at draughts and dominos. Cafe Zoppi^ Rue des Fosses St. Germain des Pres. This was the rendezvous of every literary character. Voltaire, Rousseau, Fontenelle, and all the wits at the close of the last century, used to assemble here. The Cafe Zoppi has not yet lost its literary character. Cafe Turcy Cafe des Princes. In addition to the most elegant coffee-rooms, these places boast of exten- L no CAFES. sive gardens, beautifully laid out, where the visiters are entertained with occasional concerts, or in which they can amuse themselves by some of the finest views on the Boulevards, or by playing at bowls, and a vari- ety of other games. Cafe Valois Palais Royal. The blind of the Na- tional Institution often perform both vocal and instru- mental music here, in the most finished style. Cafe de Londres^ Rue Jacob. This room is kept by an Englishman, whose civility and reasonable charges are universally acknowledged. Cafe Dixoiiy Boulevard des Italiens. This is likewise kept by an Englishwoman, of equal civility, but not equally moderate in her charges. The traveller may here be accommodated with comfortable lodgings. Cafe d^ Apollon. The grand saloon resembles a thea- tre, and short interludes are often performed here with ability and spirit. No money is required for admission, but it is expected that the visiter will order some trif- ling refreshment. The cafes^ and saloons of the restaurateurs, are not partitioned into boxes, but the whole of the room is usually laid open, and small tables ranged around it. Cafe des Aveugles, Palais Royal, is a subterranean coffee-house, chiefly for the lower orders. There is music every evening. Cafe de Montansier^ Cafe de la Null, Palais Royal. This place is built in the form of a theatre, and plays are performed almost every evening. The visiter only pays for his refreshments, indeed he is not obliged to take any unless he pleases. The doors are always open. Rope-dancing is introduced between each piece. Cafe du Sauvage, under the Palais Royal, near the passage that leads to Rue Vivienne. It is very spaci- ous, and is ornamented with numerous looking-glasses. Dinner may be procured here, without wine, for 30 sous. In the evening there is music till eleven o’clock. RESTAURATEURS. Ill Cafe Borell, under the eastern stone gallery, No. 116 , in the Palais Royal, is a subterranean coffee-house, late Borell’s. Music is performed every evening. Cafe des Varietes, is situated at the extremity of the western stone gallery, in the Palais Royal, to which there are two entrances. It has spacious apartments fitted up as small theatres, where short pieces are fre- quently performed for the amusement of the cus- tomers, Restaurateurs. Eating-Houses. The superior class of eating-houses in the English metropolis bear the nearest resemblance to the restau- ratem’s of Paris, yet convey an extremely imperfect idea of their convenience, splendour, and luxury. In Lon- don, the stranger lives, or may live, entirely at his hotel. In Paris he breakfasts at a cafe, dines at a restaura- teur’s, returns to the cafe for his liqueurs or his tea, again resorts to the restaurateur’s for his supper, and adjourns to his hotel to sleep. The traiteur has likewise accommodations for those who dine at his house, but he is more employed in serving the neighbouring hotels and private houses with dinners ready-dressed. The restaurateurs are even more numerous than the cafes. The French have little idea of domestic com- fort. They appear to live every where rather than at home ; and very many families, who occupy respectable houses, and who have a retinue of servants, scarcely ever dine at their own habitation. Many of the restaurateurs vie with the cafes in pro- fusion of ornament. The bill of fare (la carte Jy to the astonishment and frequent embarrassment of the vi- siter, consists of nearly 250 articles. I have inserted one for the instruction and amuse- ment of my reader. I am afraid that he will find many of the articles unintelligible, unless he is an adept in L2 112 RESTAURATEURS. French dooker}^ He will instantly perceive that it was impossible for me to give a translation which would be much more intelligible than the original. The hon d' oeuvres are small dishes to garnish or fill up the cor- ners of the table. The French are fond of a proftision of little dishes. The entremets are different prepara- tions of vegetables, salads, and eggs. The account which I have already given of French cookery, in the description of the Calais inns, will in some measure direct the choice of the traveller amidst the profusion of luxuries. They who are fond of made dishes will here enjoy them in the highest perfection. The gourmand will find himself in the favourite region of epicurism. The rognons de mouton au vin de Cham- pagne, Je carbonnade d la chicoree, le fricassee de poulet, le ragont mUe, le fricandeau de veau a la chicoree, ou d Voreille ou aux haricots, &c. will afford him an inex- haustible variety. The traveller who prefers the English style of cook- ery will not object to many of the preparations of fish, although he must not expect to find them so deliciously fresh as in London. The mackerel and the soles will rarely displease, but he must expect them dressed with sorrel leaves. The soup is decidedly equal to that which the best English taverns afford. The stranger will probably object to the attempts to conceal the na- tural poverty and want of juice in the French sham- bles’ meat, by a medley of poignant sauces, but he will rarely find fault with the' bouillis, or haricots. He will not be much disgusted with either the roast beef or the beef-steak, although he will probably think the former sadly overdone, and the latter too diy and tasteless; but the cbtelette de veau en papillotte he will eat with considerable appetite. The price of the different articles varies much at dif- ferent restaurateurs. Very’s is probably as dear as any in Paris, but it is elegant and fashionable, and the din- ners are most exquisitely cooked. I would recommend RESTAURATEURS. 113 jvery tourist to dine there once at least, that he may vitness and experience the very acme of French epicu- rism. Some authors who have really visited Paris^ and vhose accounts of the French metropolis are tolerably ;orrect> and not devoid of interest, have much exagge- rated the necessary and usual expense at this temple of uxury. Mr. Herve has said, “ You may dine here for burteen francs, hut people seldom expend less than wenty.” A moment’s inspection of the carte will con- dnce the reader either that Mr. Herve never dined at iTery’s, or that he carried thither a most unconscion- ible appetite. I have often dined there, and very com- brtably, for less than eight francs. The first question which the visiter is asked, is what vine he will take with his dinner. It is not expected, lor is it usual, to order Champagne, Claret, or any ligh-priced wine. The Parisian generally orders the econd wine on the list, viz. the usual table-wine of a uperior quality. To this he confines himself, unless, ,s a honne-bouchey and to keep peace among the discor- iant elements of a French dinner, he finishes with a lass of Eau-de-vie de Dantzick^ Noyau^ Curasao d'HoU 2 nde, &c. Half a bottle of most of the best wines may le had at any of the restaurateurs. The following may be considered the average price f a comfortable dinner ; and, except by the addition of ome expensive wine, Mr. Herve would have been puz- led to extend it to twenty, or even to fourteen francs. Potage an Vermicelle Francs. sous. lt. Denis. Nevertheless, tlie Parisians were much 120 HISTORY indebted to him, for his love of science and the arts suggested the establishment of numerous schools, by the influence of which the character and manners of the people were materially and happily changed. Under his feeble successors, Paris became the patri mony of some of the hereditary counts. Allured by its riches, the Normans pillaged it in 845 . They reduced it to ashes, and desolated even its subiurbs in 856 ; and, in 872 , they once more attacked and ravaged it. These disasters have left few vestiges of the monuments built by the Romans, or by the kings of the first dynasty. In 885 , the Normans again attempted the siege of Paris. In vain the inhabitants entreated succour from Charles the Bald. Their own valour, directed by the genius of their noble count Eudes, compelled the Nor- mans to raise the siege at the end of two years. Charles, justly covered with ignominy, was deposed, and the crown placed on the head of Eudes. It be- came hereditary in his family, when his grandson, Hugh Capet, was elected in 987 . The first princes of this dynasty, anxious for the prosperity of a city that had been their peculiar patri- mony, and the defence of which had elevated them to the throne, continued to reside here, in the edifice now called the Palace of Justice. They confii*med the an- cient privileges of the citizens, and granted them many new immunities. The schools of instruction were increased, and the university established. A new city was added to the ancient capital towards the north, and fortified with walls. Paris owes its chief ornaments to Philip Augustus, who erected many of the public buildings, paved the streets, and completely sm*rounded the city and suburbs with a wall. Henry IV. planned and executed most of the squares, and erected the Pont-Neuf. Louis XIV. contributed OF PARIS. 121 i much to its embellishment. He converted its gates 1 into triumphal arches ; filled up the ditches, from the stagnant water of which putrid and noxious effluvia constantly arosef-and planted the Boulevards. Before the Revolution, Paris contained 46 parish churches, 20 subsidiary churches, 11 abbeys, 155 mo- nasteries and convents, 15 colleges, 15 public schools, and 26 hospitals. It may not be uninteresting to take a cursory view of the new appropriations of the numberless convents, and other religious establishments, that were suppressed at the beginning of the Revolution. Three of them have been converted into commodious healthy prisons, and a penitentiary house for women, viz. St. Pelagie, St. Lazare, and the Madelonettes. Four other con- vents have become extensive hospitals : the lying-in hospital, the hospital for venereal diseases / aux ci-demnt CapiLcins), and the military hospital of the Val de Grace. — Six commodious, and most of them elegant and extensive, markets, have replaced a like niunber of convents and churches, viz. the market of the Jacobins (so called from the Dominican Friars). The poultry and game market has replaced the Augustin monks. The market of St. Martin, built on part of the garden of the Benedictine abbey of St. Martin. The market of the Blancs Manteaux, old rue du Temple. The market of the Carmesy where the Carmelite monks were established. The market of St. Joseph^ rue Montmartre, has replaced the church dedicated to that saint. The convents of the Petits-Pa'eSy that of the nuns of Panthemonty that of the MinimeSy and some others, have been converted into useful and commo- dious barracks. The Seminary of St. Sulpice has been pulled down to make room for a fine square, orna- mented with a fountain ; and to display a full view of the front of the church of St. Sulpice, undoubtedly one of the finest monimients of architectiu-e in Pai’is. M 122 HISTORY The extensive buildings of the Sorbonne have been ap- propriated to lodge cominodiously thirty-six artists, with their families. The eminently useful quays which border the island Notre-Dame^ or la Cite^ have replaced filthy unhealthy buildings of every description. The magnificent new Exchange is erecting on the garden which belonged to the nuns that were called FUles St. Thomas. The famous Polytechnic school occupies the mansion, considerably enlarged, of the College of Na- varrcy a celebrated school of divinity. The useful Normal school replaces a religious establishment. The National Institute is installed under the dome of the church of the college Mazarine. The lyceum of Charlemagne was formerly the college of the Jesuits ; a part of the buildings has been appropriated for the city library. The institution for the deaf and dumb replaces the ancient ecclesiastical seminary of St. Magloire. The healthy spacious hospital for incurables, in the Faubourg St. Martin, was formerly a convent of mendicant friars ; and the Abbaie of St. Martin is now the usefid and splendid Conservatoire des Arts. It would be endless to enumerate the streets that have so much continued to the embellishment and salubrity of Paris, at the expense of religious establish- ments that have been destroyed : it will be sufficient to instance the Rue de la Paix, the Rue de Rivoli, that of Castiglione, those of Mont-Thabor^ Duphot^ Richepanse, the continuation of the Rue Neuve du Luxembourg to the Thuilleries, the Rue du Pont de Lod% &c. The beautiful and immense Wine Mart (la Halle aux Vins) could not have been erected, if several religious establishments had not been suppressed; A great number of useful manufactories are seated in the former mansions of monks and nuns ; for instance, those of M. Lenoir y of M. Peltier y &c. the Female Cordelieres, the English Benedictines, les Boris Honvmes, &c. &c, are likewise become seats of useful industry. OF PARIS. 123 To leave the church: — the ground on which the odious Bastille stood, has been transformed into a beau- tiful Boulevard (the Boulevard Bourdon). The famous canal de I’Ourcq will end here; and probably few, very few, will regret this metamorphosis of the Bastille. Paris is intersected by the river Seine. This river is not to be compared with the Thames for expanse, and, where it is not confined by the quays, frequently pre- sents, on either side, a wide embankment of mud. It here forms two small islands, denominated Isle St. Louis (the Island of St. Louis), and Isle Notre Dame (Island of our Lady). The former is the ancient city, and de- rives its name from a building wherein the kings of the first dynasty resided, and which was afterwards appro- priated to the reception of the parliament. i The quarter denominated the Fille is situated on the iiorth, the university is on the south, and the city stands in the centre. Its extent along the river is about four miles and a half ; its breadth, from the Barrier St. Denis to the Barrier St. Jacques, about three miles and a half. The new walls enclose a very considerable space of ground, which is uninhabited, and even under tillage : hence the real extent of the city is very different from its apparent magnitude. Throughout the ancient part, and in the centre of Paris, the streets are narrow, dark, and dirty. Few of them have pavements for the accommodation of foot- passengers ; and the pitching of the streets is composed of uneven and pointed stones, on which it is extremely difficult to walk in wet weather, and by which the pedestrian is soon rendered foot-sore. The coachmen have no established rule by which they drive on the right or left of the road, but they 2ross and jostle one another without ceremony. They irive close to the very doors of the houses, and either sover the foot-passenger with mud, or endanger his imbs or his life. The Paris Jehu has not the slightest M 2 PRESENT STATE 124 regard for the comfort or safety of the pedestrian ; he gives him little notice, although his horses are close upon him, and ready to trample him down : yet the accidents which occur from this infamous practice are not so numerous as mi^ht be expected. Were it not for a few large stones which project from some of the houses, and the receding door-ways of others, the disasters of the streets would form a more conspicuous item than they now do in the bills of mortality. On account of the irregular and confused manner of driving through the streets of Paris, it is inconvenient, and even dangerous, to appear in them on horseback. The traveller will, therefore, have no temptation to take his Bucephalus to the Continent ; or should he be determined to sport his charger in Paris, his rides will be confined to the Boulevards, the Elysian fields, the wood of Boulogne, and the banks of the Seine. For the same reason, the and curricle should be left in England. The inconvenience and danger of traversing the streets of Paris, together with the comparative poverty of the higher classes in France, will account for the small number of gentlemen’s carriages that are seen in the French metropolis. Fiacres and cabriolets roll along in abundance ; but the splendid equipages which crowd the British capital are thinly scattered in the streets of Paris. The pedestrian is not only exposed to continual danger from the carriages ; but the air and sun being almost completely excluded by the height of the houses, and there being few subterranean drains, a stream of black mire constantly runs through many of the streets ; and they are as wet and dirty in the middle of summer as the streets of the British metropolis are in the depth of winter. This stream in the centre of the road often becomes a rapid torrent. It requires no ineonsiderabld agility OF PARIS. 125 to leap across it, and the driver of the cabriolet delights in plentifully spattering its black and disgusting contents ■on every unfortunate pedestrian. In dirty weather it is absolutely necessary for the stranger, and even for the native, to a^il himself of a fiacre or cabriolet to traverse the more crowded and unpleasant streets. The houses, which are generally constructed of stone, are six or seven stories high. They are usually built in a peculiar form. They do not present a simple front to the street, but the side of one immense wing, the lower windows of which being strongly barricaded with iron, give more the appearance of a prison than a private dwelling. The entrance is frequently by a massive gate ; and although this is in the wall of the house, it admits not to the interior of the dwelling, but to a spacious court- yard, surrounded with buildings. , By the side of the gateway is frequently a heap of dirt and filth, which has been thrown in the morning from the different apartments of the hotel, and which the scavenger has not yet removed. It is piled against the columns that support the arch of the gateway, or sometimes threatens to impede the entrance to the court. Attached to this gate is a porter, who demands to which of the numerous inhabitants of the court the visit is intended ; for, not unfrequently, seven or eight families occupy the different apartments and sub- divisions of the enormous edifice. The motley collection of inmates is a peculiar feature of the French metropolis. The first floor is probably occupied by one of the ancient noblesse, or by a che- valier who can trace his descent from the first dynasty of the monarchs of France. He perhaps pays 500/. per annum for the rent of his share of the edifice. Above him are tenants possessed of different gradations of fashion or opulence, to the sixth or seventh floor, M 5 126 PRESENT STATE which are inhabited by the milkman, the cobbler, or the scavenger, and who only pay a rent of ten pounds. The whole of this ill-assorted community use the same magnificent staircase, decorated by marble columns, enriched with beautiful bas-reliefs, and embrowned by the collected filth of a hundred dirty feet. Occasionally the common staircase is swept by the porter, but in some hotels it is sulfered to remain in a horribly dis- gusting state. The cleansing of it being the duty of no particular floor, is neglected by all, and many months pass without its being profaned by mop or broom. In no other city but Paris would the access to the most elegant and splendid apartments lie through an avenue, which the gentlemen are sometimes compelled to tra- verse on tip-toe, and in which the ladies are constrained to elevate their petticoats quite as high as decency will allow. 'One proof of a total want of taste, or rather of a sense of propriety, in the French, should not be for- gotten. When an hotel (a large house) is inhabited by one opulent or noble family only, it is not unusual to make the upper story the receptacle for the hay and provender of the horses. A crane, which can be pro- truded at pleasure, is usually placed within one of the upper windows ; and I have frequently seen the trusses of hay, and the sacks of corn, slowly drawn up to the top of the superb residence of a duke or a prince. The enormous height to which many of the houses tower, the massive thickness of the walls, the embattled and turretted appearance of the chimneys at the extre- mity of each building, the want of connexion between the edifices, and the singular narrowness of the streets, give to many parts of Paris a wild and gloomy air, which makes a strong impression on the mind of the stranger. The lamps are suspended by cords across the middle of the street, and usually alford infinitely better illumi- OP PARIS. 127 nation, than the dim and quivering lights which, in many parts of London, only serve to render the dark- ness visible. The traveller will be much disappointed by the ap- pearance of the shops in Paris. In the Palais Royal, the diminutive boutiques under the piazzas, present a brilliant and seducing spectacle; but in most of the streets nothing can be more unpromising than the out- side show of the largest and best frequented shops. No projecting windows admit of a tasteful display of goods. Frequently the only indication of a shop is a sign, painted with considerable elegance while the light can scarcely penetrate through the windows, thickly incrusted with the mud, plentifully spattered from the fiacresy which, driving close to the walls, threaten the smallest projection with inevitable destruction. The leading street in Paris, on a par with the Strand ' and Fleet-Street in London, is the Rue St, Honor Cy W'hich is joined to the Rue St. Antoine, forming a com- plete line from east to west ; while from north to south is Rue St. Martin, which conducts to the Seine at the Font (bridge) Notre Dame, and on the opposite bank is continued by the Rue St. Jacques, forming one unin- terrupted course through the whole city. On a parallel with these two last mentioned streets is the Rue St. Denis, which leads to the Pont au Change (Exchange-bridge), and on the other side of which is a continuation by Rue de la Hai'pe and Rue d^Enfer. The names of the streets are written in large cha- racters at the beginning and end of each, with this peculiarity, which will often be a useful guide to the stranger. The names of the streets which are parallel with the course of the Seine are painted in red letters. Those which are perpendicular to the Seine are black. The numbering of the houses is likewise peculiar. The numbers begin with that part of the street which is nearest to the Seine ; or from the east, when the 1^8 PRESENT STATE Street is parallel with the river. The even nuihbers are on the right side, and the odd numbers on the left side of the street. In the parallel streets, the numbers of the houses are pointed red; in those which are perpen- dicular, the colour is black. The most airy and healthful situations are near the walls of the city, the streets being wider and the houses not huddled together as in the centre of Paris. The Faubourgs, (by which the traveller is not to understand the suburbs, or the streets without the walls, but the space enclosed between the Boulevards and the new wall,) are in general very thinly inhabited, and some of them are almost deserted. The number of streets is about 1000, and the population exceeds 700,000. As all the public structures will be described in this Guide, it would be superfluous to enumerate them under the present head. I shall therefore close this brief account by acquainting the traveller, that a complete prospect of this extensive capital may be obtained from three points. That which is nearest the city is the hill of Montmartre, where the battle took place, previous to the triumphal entry of the allied troops into Paris, and from which the whole expanse of the metropolis pre- sents itself to the view. The peculiar transparency of the atmosphere is perfectly new to the Englishman, and gives to the distant and minute objects a distinct- ness which surprises him. The other situations, afford- ing similar prospects, are Mount Calvary, and the pleasure-house Bellevue. One of the best views of Paris, perhaps the noblest, is that from the Pont Royal^ whence the traveller sees on his left the magnificent colonnade of the Thuilleries, and the Louvre stretching its immense length along the banks of the Seine. On his right is a noble quay, bor- dered by elegant houses, with the Palais des Arts and the Hotel des Monnaies at an inconsiderable distance. Behind these, the ground rises steepl}^, and the houses OF PARIS. 129 of the Faubourg St, Germain present a variety of cu- rious and picturesque groups. The dome of the Pan- theon nobly towers above them. In front is the Pont- des-ArtSy the Pont~Neufy the river diverging into two branches, lined with noble quays, and the venerable towers of Notre Dame rising from the bosom of the Seine. 130 CHARACTER AND MANNERS OF THE PARISIANS. It will now be requisite to give the traveller some insight into the character and manners of a people, whose internal economy, during an usurpation of so many years, has been sedulously kept from the observa- tion of strangers. The inhabitants of every great city may be divided into three classes, of whom the character and manners are altogether dissimilar; the noblesse, the middle ranks, and the common people. The manners and habits of the first, every where artificial, have been materially affected by the various scenes of the Revolution, although they cannot^at pre- sent be said to have adopted any marked feature. It may, however, be affirmed, that the character of the noblesse has materially improved. The strange vicissi- tudes of the last twenty years have sobered down much of their peculiar and disgusting levity. The character and habits of the present reigning family, and the degree of uncertainty which yet attends the political situation of France, have given a serious, but not an unpleasing cast to the natural cheerfulness and buoyancy of spirits. The necessity of the times has likewise taught them affability, condescension, and an apparent interest in the welfare of the middle and lower classes. It cannot, however, be denied, that disappointment at not CHARACTER, &C. ISI regaining the patrimony anti feudal rights of their an- cestors, has given to some of them a severe and morose air, curiously contrasted with the politesse and grimace which are indigenous to the French character, ' The morals of the noblesse are likewise evidently improved ; and the shameless exhibition of profligacy which disgraced the reigns of Louis XIV., Louis XV., the latter years of Louis XVI., and the whole of the imperial usurpation, are now seldom witnessed, i The peculiarities of the middle ranks of society, who will principally offer themselves to the attention of the traveller, with whom he will have most to do, and to whom he must look for the true character of a people, are easily described. The most prominent feature in the character of the Parisian is a peculiar politesse, which rarely fails to please, though it is not always exempt from hypocrisy. It must be acknowledged, however, that the strange and horrible events of revo- lutionary times have effected no inconsiderable change in the manners of the Frenchman. The traveller still [recognises the frivolous, good-humoured, conceited [people, which former tourists had described, but mingled i with the politeness of the old regime, he observes much I gloom and dissatisfaction. This was the necessary consequence of the policy of the late government. While the education of youth was neglected, and public worship almost abolished; while the young man, as soon as he was capable of bearing arms, was hurried from every scene of domestic life, and immersed in the licentiousness and brutality of la camp, the effect on his character and his manners was easy to be foreseen, and deeply to be lamented. Most :of the subaltern and many of the superior officers have risen from the ranks. They had not the education of \^entleinen, they have been accustomed only to scenes of rapine and violence ; in this short breathing-time of peace, they have scarcely associated with the virtuous 8 132 CHARACTER OF part of the softer sex ; they have not yet formed those connexions which polish the manners and ameliorate the heart. It is said that they look with some degree of suspicion on the English, and sometimes treat them with incivility*. It was the policy of Buonaparte to foster in the bosom of Frenchmen an implacable hostility towards England. Her gold, it was said, purchased the hireling armies which threatened to deluge France with blood; her avarice crippled and destroyed the continental com- merce : and though the French were indebted to her perseverance and to her generosity for their deliverance from intolerable thraldom, yet, while their freedom was effected, their national vanity was deeply wounded. Every year gradually softens the asperities of this too faithful picture. The tradesmen and merchants of Paris, who have not been exposed to the baneful influence which I have described, retain much of the ancient character. They are still lively, good-humoured, and versatile ; proud of themselves, and indulgent to others ; content with the amusement of the day, with little foresight or retro- spect; polite and attentive, desirous to please, and generally pleasing. The Parisian, though he has little idea of what we term the comforts of the domestic fireside, does not, at the close of the business of the day, quit his family and resort to the coffee-house, or the club ; but with his wife and children dressed in all their little finery, he parades the Boulevards; he visits some of the ! numerous gardens, with which the metropolis abounds ; > * Some complaints have been made on this subject, I but if English gentlemen will take the trouble to submit | to the customs of the place and treat the people with I civility, the editor will venture to assert that they will have no cause for complaint. I 3 THE PARISIANS. 133 he treats himself and them with the cheap pleasures which these places afford; and usually closes the evening with either joining in the dance, or gazing with delight on the graceful movements of others. The cheapness of provisions in France, and an economy in dress and living scarcely known in England, enable him to make almost every evening a season of festivity. It may be truly said drunkenness is nearly unknown. A tumbler of lemonade or orgeat is frequently the whole of the Frenchman’s debauch. A passion for gaming lamentably pervades the middle classes, and those especially of an intermediate rank between the bourgeois and the noblesse. It commenced its destructive ravages when religious belief was weak- ened, and the publiq morals contaminated by the baneful writings of the French illuminati a short time before the Revolution. It spread with recruited energy when the unprincipled and contemptible Duke of Orleans converted his palace into the sanctuary of every abomination ; and its empire was fully established, when, under the government of Buonaparte, the licen- tiousness of a military life usurped the place of do- mestic habits, honest industry, and public and private virtue. The spacious apartments of the Palais Royal are daily crowded. Men and women promiscuously assemble, and enter into the dangerous business of the gaming-table with all the energy of their national cha- racter. Different rooms are suited to the finances of every speculator. The mechanic who can only stake a single franc, the hardly-earned produce of a laborious day, is not excluded. The Palais Royal may be termed the spot where the demon of gambling holds his prin- cipal court ; but in every district of Paris, and almost in every street, the unhallowed, but legalized assem- blies of his votaries abound. N 134 * CHARACTER OF It is said that the government of Buonaparte derived the enormous sum of 600 , 000 /. per annum from the licenses of the gaming-hcuses ; and the present govern- ment does not disdain to avail itself of this disgraceful and pernicious revenue. Most of the public tables are devoted to games of chance, but at those of skill the French are adepts. To render themselves completely masters of every point of finesse, every nicety of calculation, every effect of manual dexterity, they employ an energy and an industry, which, devoted to more honourable pur- poses, would be highly creditable. The traveller should be aware of this, or he will soon find to his cost, that he is no match for the Parisian, even at those games at which he deems himself most adroit. He should likewise be aware of the seductions of that most unnatural and dangerous character, the female gambler. The beauty and fascination of woman are too often in league with the proprietor of the gaming- table ; and many a lovely face is clothed with smiles to lure the heedless stranger to his destruction. A fondness for public amusements is a principal feature in the French character. It is not less strange than true, that even the anarchy and bloodshed, which disgraced the early stages of the Revolution, were not sufficiently revolting to restrain this love of diversion. At the close of every day that had witnessed the guillotine performing its murderous office, no less than thirty theatres, independent of other places of amuse- ment, were as uniformly crowded as if the most per- fect tranquillity had reigned in the capital. The principal day of amusement is Sunday. After he has heard mass in the morning, the best Catholic gives himself up to enjoyment. Music and dancing are heard in every street, and the theatres are literally crowded. The commercial man too frequently disre- THE PARISIANS. 135 i^rds the sanctity of the day ; his shop and his count- ing-house are open as usual, and he is as eager to buy, and sell, and get gain, as on any common day. Soon after the present king was first re-seated on the throne of his ancestors, he published a decree, in which he ordered the shops to be shut on Sunday. Reasonable and proper as was this injunction, it gave great offence, and materially contributed to alienate the affections of the Parisians. The decree has been re- vived, but it is far from being universally obeyed. A truly unique passion for dress and personal de- coration likewise distinguishes the Parisian. This, in- deed, from the natural versatility of the French charac- ter, appeared for a while suspended, during the worst period of the Revolution. There was a time when the remembrance of ancient manners, forms, and de- corations, appeared to be banished from the mind of the Parisian. As much care was taken to assume the true costume of a sans-culotte as had formerly been Jjestowed on the nonsensical eccentricities of puppy- ism and foppery. This barbarous taste was of short duration. With the domination of Buonaparte re- tmmed much of the ancient frivolity of garb and ap- pearance. The sprucely-decorated petit-maitre of for- mer days is not now perhaps so often seen ; but the English traveller wll sometimes gaze with astonishment at the gaudy and fantastic finery of the inhabitants of Paris. The very finei’y of the Parisians has generally, how- ever, much of the strange inconsistency of their cha- racter. The smartest beau seldom has the appearance of a gentleman. A loose shabby siu’tout, a worn-out hat, or a tattered shirt, often accompany the most splen- did habiliments. Let not my reader hence imagine that I impute to the French character that emptiness and frivolity which some writers have attributed to it, and which so many N 2 136 CHARACTER OF of my countrymen imagine must necessarily belong to it. In works of erudition and genius, France will not yield to any surrounding country. Her improvements in chemistry have not been surpassed. Some of her dramatic writers have been excelled only by our immor- tal bard. Her painters and sculptors occupy no infe- rior rank in the scale of merit. But there is a spright- liness of disposition, a buoyancy of spirits, and a happy adaptation of the mind to circumstances, perfectly pe- culiar and characteristic. The French have been accused of dishonesty in their commercial transactions, and especially with fo- reigners. If this be meant to apply to the principal merchants and bankers of Paris the charge is utterly false. In the strictest integrity, in all their dealings, and the nicest sense of honour, these gentlemen are not inferior even to the merchants of Britain. If it be applied to the hmitiques of the Palais Royal, the charge is partly true and partly unfounded. The tradesman of the Palais Royal will unblushingly de- mand considerably more than the value of his commo- dities. He will omit no finesse, he will spare no misre- presentation, to obtain his price. Yet with this is ming- led an honest principle, which the tradesmen of all other countries would do well to imitate. Should the traveller inadvertently leave his gloves, or even his purse on the counter, a messenger is immediately des- patched after him, or the articles are preserved with religious care until his return. To the honesty and civility of the lower classes, every traveller has borne ample and willing testimony. In our sketch of Parisian manners, the fair-sex must not be omitted. In France more than in any other country, the empire of woman is apparently established. The records of the nation demonstrate that her fasci- nations, her virtues, or her foibles, have influenced and governed almost every political events In private life THE PARISIANS. 137 she bears a prominent part in every transaction, and I universal homage is paid to her charms. At every place of public entertainment, she presides. She sits enthroned in the cafe, and more particularly occupies > the attention of the visiters than the most interesting i or important news of the day. Even in the baths, it is ! woman who must administer refreshment to the swim- , mers, although their scanty covering is scarcely an apology for decency. In the shop of the tradesman, the female presents herself to every customer, and superintends the whole concern, while the husband I lounges over the counter, or amuses himself at the ] cafe. In the name of the wife every guest is invited, and to her discretion every domestic arrangement is implicitly submitted. It may however be doubted whether this apparent ' supremacy is not gained at the expense of real power. It is a compliment yielded by the overstrained politesse of the Frenchman, but probably not the faithful and undeviating homage of the heart, i When we penetrate into the recesses of private life, we perceive that the female rules every where but in her native empire, the heart of her husband. She governs every thing with absolute sway except his affections. In these it is said she often yields to a hap- pier, and more powerful rival ; and, to retain the semblance pf dominion, which she can no longer exer- cise over her liege lord, she listens to the protestations and vows of another suitor. It is notorious that conjugal infidelity is too preva- lent in every class of society. The husband does not attempt to conceal his attentions to another female : and the wife, even in the presence of her husband, listens with complacence to the adulations of her cicisbeo. If these arrangements are not invariably criminal, they cannot fail of being dangerous ; and they infallibly prove that the Frenchwoman, in grasping N 3 138 CHARACTER OF at unnatural dominion, has lost that more honourable, | that far happier, and more despotic sway, which she I would otherwise have held over the heart of man. | The influence of this unfortunate state of society is | too apparent. It gives to. the character of the most i virtuous and accomplished woman a confidence not suited to the English taste, and not favourable to do- mestic felicity; and, to females of inferior minds and laxer principles, it imparts a total want of delicacy, at which the stranger will often wonder. The young un- married ladies in France are completely exempted from the charges just mentioned. — The strictness of the ge- neral system of education there, prevents the possibility of such indecorum. | When women of respectable stations, and apparently respectable characters, crowd round the public gaming- tables ; when they occupy the benches of the cafes ; when they attempt not to conceal their full understand- ing of every double entendre ; when the bourgeoise will unblushingly offer to the customer the most licentious composition, or the most abominable print, the English- man will turn away surprised and disgusted. In France, however, as in every other country of the world, that noblest of the works of Deity, the heart of woman often triumphantly resists the influence of the most pernicious customs. The traveller will undoubt- edly be surprised at the profusion of tawdry ornaments with which the Parisian women decorate themselves, and the unreserved manner in which they address him, and their evident anxiety to attract his attention ; but if he universally or even generally attributes this to de- pravity of heart, or licentiousness of conduct, he will do them much injustice. The Frenchwoman has a peculiar sprightliness of look, and vivacity of manner. Prompted by the ex- cusable vanity of her sex, and sanctioned by the custom of her country, she expects, and seems even to court the attention of the men ; but an intimate acquaintance THE PARISIANS. 1S9 with her will convince the most prejudiced, that this may often be perfectly consistent with sensibility, with modesty, and with vii’tue. The tourist will indeed sel- dom find in Paris the retired and unassuming delicacy which was once' said to constitute the character of the English fair ; “ his heart, untravelled,” will still return with delight to those to whom he has been endeared from early years, and in whose private and domestic virtues he contemy)lates the perfection of female ex- cellence. In one article of personal decoration an evident re- form has taken place among the females of Paris. Rouge is no longer applied with an unsparing hand. I The French women are generally brunettes, and many of them possess that peculiar and sparkling com- plexion, which is often more captivating even than the ' delicate and transparent skin of the northern fair. These nymphs have at length apparently learned to rely on the superior power of their native, unassisted charms ; and others, to whom Nature has not been equally kind, now apply the roseate hue of art much more lightly than some of the fashionable belles of other countries. Time will shew whether this is a mere freak of fashion, or may be hailed as the harbinger of better taste and simpler manners. The French character is not less evident in the lower classes of society. A peculiar politeness of behaviour, approaching often to the ridiculous, pervades the meanest ranks. The dustman and the milk-maid salute each other in the street with all the scrupulous cere- monious punctilios which would be practised in the English drawing-room. To strangers the inferior classes are peculiarly civil, and are alw ays ready to give them information, or afford them assistance. From this claim to civility I must, however, except the servants, whose negligence and rudeness are often insufferable. The lower classes have an appearance of peculiar 140 CHARACTER OF THE PARISIANS. 1 intelligence and quick apprehension ; yet, probably, the Flench peasants are not superior in these qualities to the mechanics, dr the cottagers of other countries; but they are accustomed to bring their little acquire- ments into the most prominent point of view, and they have the happy knack of saying something even on those subjects on which they are most ignorant They are likewise distinguished by an improvidence and dis- regard of futurity scarcely conceivable. Very few ever make, or think of making, the least provision against the accidents of life, or the infirmities of old age; nor, after they have earned sufficient to supply the wants of the present day, will they do the slightest work. If the poor Frenchman, early in the morning, has procured enough to provide for himself and his family the most moderate ffire during the remainder of the day, he uniformly gives himself up to amusement. It should however be added, and much to their credit, that the scenes of drunkenness and debauchery which some- times disgrace the British metropolis, are rarely seen in Paris : nor do brutal quarrels often disturb the hours of business or of rest. The love of dancing seems almost innate. The por- ter and the shoe-black will frequently exhibit a grace- fulness of attitude perfectly unknown in the lower ranks of society On this side the water. The promenade | and the dance are the Frenchman’s chief pleasures. “ Alike all ages. Dames of ancient days. Have led their children thro’ the mirthful maze; And the gay grandsire, skill’d in gestic lore. Has frisk’d beneath the burden of threescore.^’ CURIOSITIEIJ OF PARIS. Ul THE STRANGERS S METHODICAL GUIDE TO THE CURIOSITIES, &C. OF PARIS, ACCORDING TO THE TWELVE MUNICIPAL DIVISIONS, WITH AN INDICATION OF EVERY REMARKABLE PLACE IN EACH. The most convenient way of visiting the curiosities of Paris is by these divisions ; the following table will shew what is contained in each : 1st Division. — 1. Le Mairie, or the Municipality (the hotel where the offices of the Mayor for register- ing births, marriages, and deaths, are established, as likewise where the Justice of the Peace holds his weekly court for small debts and conciliations:) No. 14, rue du faubourg Saint Honore ; 2. the palace and garden of the Thuilleries ; 3. the Triumphal Arch in the place of the Carousel ; 4. the Gallery which joins the palace of the Thuilleries with the Louvre ; 5. the theatre of Vaude- ville ; 6. the place of Louis XV. and the Garde-Meuble, now the Admiralty ; 7. the Church of the Assumption, now the Magdalen (with the dome) rue St. Honore; 8. the pont Louis XVI.; 5. the Champs-Elysees ; 10. the palace of Elysee-Bourbon, rue du faubourg St Ho- nore, now the residence of the duke of Berry; 11. 'the Pompe a feu of M. Perier, at Chaillot; 12. the Carpet Manufactory, quai Billy; 13. the pont de TEcole-Mili- taire ; 1 4. the Triumphal Arch at the barrier of Neuilly; 15. the Church of St. Philippe du Roule; 16. 1’Abbat- toir (slaughter-house,) Miromenil, rue de la Pepiniere ; 17. the park of Mouceaux; 18. the Lycee Bourbon, rue Ste. Croix; 19. the place Vendome, and the fa- mous column; 20. place Beauveau; 21. place du Palais Royal ; place de Louis XV. ; 22. place du Cai’ousel ; 23. Bureau de Timbre (Stamp Office,) rue de la Paix ; Ministere de la Justice, (Keeper of the Seals,) place 14*2 METHODICAL GUIDE TO THE Vendome ; 27. Chateau d’eaii, -place du Palais Royal ; 28. Hospital Beaujon, faubourg du Roule ; 29. Barracks in the rue Verte, and in the rue de la Pepiniere; 50 . Palace of the Child, sometimes called the King of Rome, barrier of Passy; 31. the Colonnade of the new church of the Magdalen, intended by Buonaparte to be the Temple de la Gloire^ opposite the place Louis XV.; 32. French Mountains, barrier Neuilly ; 33. Royal Ma- nufactory of Carpets, quai Billy, at Chaillot; 34. the Elysian Fields; 35. Baths of Vigier, on the river, close to the Pont Royal ; 36. the Gardens of Tivoli, rue St. Lazarej 37. Artificial Mineral Waters and Baths, rue Lazare; 38. House of Refuge for the Aged, at St. Perrine, at Chaillot ; 39. the Gallery de I’Orme, rues St. Honore and Rivoli ; 40. the Hotel Wagram, boulevai’d des Capucines ; 41. Staff de la place de Paris, place Ven- dome; 42. Staff of the First Military Division, place Louis XV. 2d Division. — 1. La Mairie, No. 3, rue d’Antin; 2. the Palais Royal; 3. the Theatre Francais, rue de Richelieu ; 4. the Church of St. Roch, rue St. Honore ; 5. the King’s Library rue de Richelieu ; 6. Lotterie Royale, rue neuve des Petits Champs ; 7. Conservatoire de Musique and Menus Plaisirs du Roi, rue Bergere, faubourg Poissonniere ; 8. Marche des Jacobins, rue St. Honore; 9. Abattoir (slaughter-house) of Mont- martre, rue de Rouchechouart ; 10. Casernes (barracks); rue de Clichy and rue Cadet; 11. the Treasury, rue neuve des Petits Champs ; 12. the Opera, rue de Riche- lieu ; 13. the new Exchange, rue des Filles St. Thomas; 14. the Comic Opera, rue Feydeau; 15. the Italian Theatre, place des Italiens; 16. the Theatre des Va- rietes, boulevard Montmartre; 17. Spectacle Mecani- que of Mr. Pierre, rue and Gallerie de Montesquieu ; 18. the Chinese Baths, boulevard des Capucines; 19. the Hotel Thelusson, rue de Provence; 20. the Treasury, rue neuve des Petits Champs; 21. the Hotel and Offices of Finances, rue neuve des Petits Champs ; CURIOSITIES OF PARIS. 14'3 22. place des Italiens; 25 . Direction Generale de I’en- registrement & du Domaine, rue de Choiseul. 3d Division. — 1. La Mairie, or Municipality, aux petits Peres, rue Notre Dame des Victoires ; 2. General Post Office, (la poste aux lettres,) rue J. J. Rousseau ; 3. Grandes Messageries, (stage-coaches for all parts of France and for London,) rue Notre Dame des Victoires; 5. Barracks (casernes,) de la Nouvelle France, rue Poissonniere ; 6. Market of St. Joseph, rue Montmar- tre; 7. Administration des Douanes (the Customs,) Ancien Hotel d’Uzes, rue Montmartre, near the boule- vard; 8. the Church of St. Eustache, rue Montmartre; 9. the place des Victoires ; 10. the Prison of St. Lazare for women; 11. Maison de Sante, r.ue du faubourg St. Denis; 12. Hotel de Bullion, for public auctions, rue J. J. Rousseau. 4th Division. — K La Mairie, place Chevalier du Guet; 2. the Louvre; 3. the Picture Gallery and Museum of Antiques; 4. the Bank of France, rue de la Vrilliere; 5. La Flalle au Ble (the Corn Market); 6. the Market and Fountain of the Innocents; 7. the Cloth Market; 8. Caisse d’Amortissement (Sinking Fund), rue de I’Oratoire; 9. Ancient Hotel des Fer- raes, rue de Grenelle St. Honore; 10. Church of St. Germain I’Auxerrois, opposite the colonnade of the Louvre; 11. Baths Montesquieu, rue Montesquieu; 12. Baths Vigier, on the river, near the Pont-neuf; 13. Protestant Church, at the Oratoire, rue St. Honore, 5th Division. — 1. La Mairie, or Municipality, No. 2. rue Grange aux Belles ; 2. the Gate of St. Denis and that of St. Martin ; 3. the Chateau d’eau, boulevard Bondi ; 4. the Flospital for Incurables, rue du faubourg St. Martin ; 5. the Hospital of St. Louis, rue St. Louis, faubourg du Temple ; 6 . la Maison de Sante (private hospital of Mr. Dubois, the celebrated surgeon) rue du faubourg St. Martin ; 7. Theatre of the Gate St. Mai’- tin; 8. Summer VaiixhalJ, Franconi’s Ckcus anj 144 < METHODICAL GUIDE TO THE Riding-House, behind the Chateau d’eau ; 9. Baths St. Sauveur, rue St. Denis ; 10. the Leather Market (halle aux cuirs), rue Mauconseil ; 11. Perpetual Fair of Cairo, rue St. Denis; 12. Church de Bonne Nouvelle, rue Notre Dame des Bonnes Nouvelles ; 15. Chiu’ch of St. Laurence, rue de faubourg St. Martin; 14. the barrier of St. Martin; 15. the Basin of the Canal de I’Ourcq, at the barrier of la Villette. 6th Division. — 1. La Mairie, rue and ancienne ab- baie de St. Martin ; 2. the tower of St. Jacques de la Boucherie ; 5. St. Martin’s Market ; 4. the Conserva- tory of Arts, ancient abbey of St. Martin, rue St. Mar- tin; 5. the Temple Market, (for old clothes) rue du Temple ; 6. the Palace of the Temple, now a convent, rue du Temple; 7. Theatres Ambigu-Comique and Gaiete, on the boulevards du Temple; 9. CourBatave, rue St. Denis; 10. Bureau des Nourrices (office for hiring wet nurses,) rue St. Apolline; 11. Church of St. Nicholas des Champs, rue St. Martin; 12. Chiuch St. Leu, rue St. Denis; 15. Jardin (garden) Turc, boule- vard du Temple; 14. Jardin des Princes, on the same boulevard ; 15. Casernes (barracks,) faubourg du Tem- ple; 16. the Madelonettes, rue des Fontaines, prison for female debtors, and for female delinquents before trial ; 17. Baths (Bains Turcs,) rue du Temple. 7th Division. — 1. La Mairie, No. 57, rue St. Avoie; 2. the Royal Printing Office, Vieille rue du Temple ; .5. the Archives of France, at the H6tel Soubise ; 4. the Mont-de-Piete (general public pawning-house), rue des Blancs Manteaux; 5. the Waterworks of the pont No- tre Dame; 6. General Administration of Indirect Taxes (Excise Duties, &c.) Administration Generale des Contributions Indirectes, rue St. Avoie, opposite the Municipality ; 7. Church of St. Merry, rue St. Martin; 8. Tribunal of Commerce, Cloitre St. Merry; 9. Lutheran Protestant Church, rue des Billettes ; 10, Synagogue of the Jews, rue St. Avoie, opposite the CURIOSITIES OF PARISr 145 Fountain; 11. Prison de la Force, rue St, Antoine; 12. Market St. Jean; 13 . Casernes (barracks), rue dela Corderie; 14. Place and Fountain of the Chatelet, opposite the pout aiu Change. 8th Division.— 1. La Maude, No. 14, Place Royale ; 2. the Place Royale; 3. tlie hotel Beaumarchaire, near the gate of St. Antoine; 4. 1’ Abattoir Popincourt; 5. the Cemetery of Pere Lachaise, barriere d’Aulnay ; 6. the Hospital of Quinze-Vingts, for the blind, No. 38, rue de Charenton; 7» the Market of Beauveau, and that of St. Paul ; 8. the Hospital for Female Orphans, No. 2, rue Barbette; 9. the Hospital of St. Antoine, rue du faubourg St. Antoine ; 10. the Plate Glass manu- factory, rue de Rueilly, faubourg St. Antoine ; 1 1. Royal School of Engineers for the making- of roads and bridges (Ecole Royale des ponts et chaussees). No. 14, Place Royale; 12. Church of St. Margaret, faubourg St. Antoine; 13. Hospital de la Roquette, rue de la Roquette; 14 . Barracks for the Gendarmerie, rue des francs Bourgeois ; 1 5. Spacious Barracks, rue de Popin- court; 16. French Protestant church of St. Marie, rue St. Antoine ; 17. the Barrier of the Throne. 9th Division. — 1. La Mairie, No. 9, rue de Jouy ; 2. the church of Notre Dame ; and the Archbishop’s Palace ; 3. the Hospital of Hotel Dieu ; 4. the Hotel de Ville, place de la Greve ; 5. the Church of St. Ger- vais, rue de I’Orme St. Gervais ; 6. the Church of St. Paul and St. Louis, rue St. Antoine; 7. the Lycee Charlemagne, rue St. Antoine ; 8. the Library of the Arsenal, at the Arsenal ; 9. Archives of the Palace of Justice (Law Records), near the Palace of Justice; 10. General Administration of the Hospitals, Parois of Notre Dame; 1 1. General Administration of Gunpowder and Saltpetre; 12. the Arsenal; 13. Library of the Hotel de Ville, rue St. Antoine ; 14. Bm'racks for tlie Gendarmerie, rue du petit Muse; 15. Barradis of the Ave Maria for Cavalry; 16. Floating Baths, near the 0 il6 METHODICAL GUIDE TO THE j pont Marie; 17. Granaries of Reserve, about half 1 finished; 18. Grand Reservoir of the Canal d’Ourcq, and the Pedestal of the projected Fountain of the | Elephant, at the porte of St. Antoine; 19. Market for , garden trees, shrubs, and flowers in pots, on the north • banks of the Seine, in the Cite ; 20. the ground on f which the famous Bastille stood, now converted into an | elegant boulevar4, called the boulevard Bourdon ; ' 21. Hotel Bretonvillers, at the extremity of the Isle St. Louis. 10th Division. — 1. La Mairie, or Municipality, ii No. 13, rue de Verneuil; 2. the Flotel des Moimaies (the mint) where the medals are struck, quai de la Monnaie ; 5. the Palais des Arts, in which the Institute sits, and the Library of Mazarine College and that of the Institute are placed ; 4. the old Church of the ! Abbey St. Germain, place de I’Abbaye ; 5. the Foun- tain of Grenelle, rue de Grenelle ; 6. the Flospital of la Charite, rue des Saints Peres ; 7. the Hospital of the Infant Jesus; 8. the Palace of the Legion of Honour, rue de Lille; 9. the Palace Bourbon, where sits the Chamber of Deputies, rue de FUniversite ; 10. the Ho- tel of the Invalids; 11. the Military School, Champ de Mars; 12. the Hospital of Incurables, for Women, rue de Sevres; 13. the Hotel of the Minister of Fo- reign Affairs, rue du Bac; 14. Hotel of the Minister of War, rue St. Dominique; 15. Hotel of the Minister of the Police, quai Malaquais; 16. Hotel of the Minister of the interior, rue de Grenelle; 17, General Depot of the War Department, rue de FUniversite ; Post Horses; rue de FAbbaye; 19. Museum of Artillery, rue de FUniversite; 20, the Hotel of the King’s Life Guards, quai d’Orsay; 21. Barracks of Panthemont, rue de Grenelle ; 22. Barracks of the rue Babylonne ; 23. Barracks, Chateau and Place de Grenelle ; 24. Mili- tary Prison, rue St. Marguerite; 25. New Fountain of the rue Vaugirard; . 26. the Fompe d feu of M. Perrier, CURIOSITIES OR PARIS. 14<7 ! by the water-side, an Gros-Caillou ; 27. Baths — rue 1 despetits Augustins; rue de Taranne; rue de la Plan- che ; at the corner of the rue dii Bac, au Gros-Caillou, ) served by the Pompe a feu; and those of Polthcvln, on i the river, at the foot of the Pont Royal; 28. Markets j — of Aguesseau, rue dii Bac, and that of the rue de 1 Sevres ; 29. Place du Palais Bourbon ; .30. the splendid newly-planted place of the Invalids, with a fountain in I the middle; 31. Slaughter-house (abattoir) de la rue . Pumet, behind the Invalids ; 32. the Swimming School, ; (Ecole de natation, on the river near the bridge of I Louis XVI. ; 33. the Church of St. Thomas d’Aquin, ^ rue St. Dominique; 34. that of Foreign Missions, rue du . Bac ; 35. Royal Church du Gros-Caillou ; 36. Church ■ of St. Valere; 37. Hospital for Families, (Hospice des Menages) rue de Sevres ; 38. Hospital des Taigneux, ' rue de la Blanche. 11th Division. — 1. La Mairie, or Municipality, No. 29, rue du vieux Colombier; 2. the Court des Comptes (of Accounts), in the Cour de la S'<-'- Chapelle, in the ’ cHe ; 3. Prefecture of Police, quai desOrfevres; 4. Hos- pital St. Come, near the School of Medicine ; 5. Ca- sernes (barracks) and Staff of the Pompiers, (fire-men) rue de Vaugirard ; 6. Barracks for Veterans, rue du foin St. Jacques; 7. other barracks, rue des Gres; 8. Baths, rue Paon ; 9. Market Neuf, in the cite; Places — 10. : St. Sulpice; 11. of the Palais de Justice; 12. Dau- phine; 13. that of the Odeon, and that of the School ! of Medicine; 14. that of the Sorbonne; 15. that of St. Michael (Michel); 16. the Pont Neuf and Statue of Henry IV.; 17. the Courts of Justice in the island de la Cite ; 19. the Poultry and the Game Market, quai ! des Augustins; 20. the remains of the palace of the Emperor Julian, called the Thermes, No. 63, rue de la Harpe; 21. the Sorbonne, place Sorbonne; 22. the school of medicine, rue de I’Ecole de Medecine ; 23. . the theatre de I’Odeon, ruede I’Odcon; 24. the palace o 2 148 METHODICAL GUIDE TO THE of the Luxembourg containing the chamber of peers, with a splendid collection of pictm’es and a magnificent garden; 25. the church of St. Sulpice; 26. the church des . Carmes, rue de Vaugirard; 27. the Morgue, au March e-Neuf. 12th Division. — 1. La Mairie, or municipality, No. 262, rue faubourg St. Jacques ; 2. the gardens of plants and museum of natural history; 3 . the hospital of Sal- petriere, near the garden of plants ; 4. the bridge of the garden of plants ; 5. the immense new wine mart ; 6. the military hospital of Val de Grace; 7. the manu- factory of tapestry, or Gobelins, rue Moufletard; 8. the observatory, behind the garden of the Luxembourg ; 9. the Val de Grace, rue du faubourg St. Jacques; 10. the deaf and dumb institution, rue du faubourg St. Jacques; 11. the hospital of la Maternite, (lying-in- hospital), rue d’Enfer; 12. the church of St. Gene- vieve, or the Pantheon, rue St. Jacques; 15. the ly- ceum of Louis le Grand, and that of Henry IV., rue St. Jacques ; 14. Polytechnic School, (I’Ecole Polytech- nique) rue de la Montague, St. Genevieve ; 1 5. the law seminary (Ecole de droit), place du Pantheon; 16. college of France, place Cambray*; 17. college of St. Barbe, rue de Rheims ; 18. Normal school (Ecole Nor- male), rue des Postes; 19. apothecaries’ hall (Ecole de Pharmacie), rue de I’Arbalete; 20. central pharmacy of the hospitals, rue de Tournelle; 21. Irish college, rue du Cheval Vert, very near the Pantheon; 22. the college of Rheims, rue de Rheims ; 25. the college of Lisieux; 24. college of Laon, rue des Carmes; 25. the Scotch college, rue des fosses St. Victor; 26. the English seminary. No. 22, rue des Postes; 27. New Fountain, rue Censier; Churches — 28. of St. Etienne du Mont; 29. of St. Nicholas du Chardonnet; 50. of St. Jacques du haut pas, and that of St. Jean de La- tran ; 52. prison for debtors, at St. Pelagie, rue de la Clef ; 55. prison of discipline for the national guai’d of CURIOSITIES OF PARIS. 149 Paris, qua! St. Bernard. Barracks — 54. in the rue Moiiffetard ; 55. in the rue de I’Oursine; 56. and at the Estrapade; 57. the horse- market, boulevard de THopital; 58. calf market, near the quai St, Bernard; 59. slaughter-house (abattoir), near the barrier of the Gobelins, otherwise called of Fontainbleau; 40. the library of St. Genevieve, rue St. Jacques ; 41. the library of the Ecole de droit ; 42. the catacombs, at the barrier d’Enfer. o 5 1 150 PALACES. [Paris abounds ^ith palaces more voorthy of royal residence than some of the mean and uncouth buildings •which almost disgrace the metropolis of England. The following are the most remark- able for beauty or grandeur,'] Les Thuilleries, Palace of the Thuilleries. This edifice derives its name from having been erect- ed on a piece of ground appropriated to the manufac- ture of Tiles. It was founded % Catharine de Medicis, when Charles IX. destroyed her former residence, the Palace Tournelles. The land and neighbouring houses were purchased by her at a considerable expense, and the building rapidly proceeded, when, superstitiously addicted to the study of astrology, she formed the ridi- culous idea that the name of St. Germain would be fatal to her, and the completion of the sumptuous fabric was suddenly relinquished, because the ground on which it stood was in the parish of St. Germain I’Auxerrois. She built the great pavilion, which now forms the centre of the palace, with the ranges of building immediately adjoining, and the pavilions that terminate them. The palace was much enlarged by Henry IV., and afterwards by Louis XIII. The front now consists of five pavilions, comprising that in the centre ; with four ranges of buildings connecting them together, and forming one grand fa9ade. Every order of architecture is rendered subservient to the embel- lishment of this magnificent edifice : but the Ionic pil- lars on the right of the terrace particularly captivate the eye by their beautiful proportion and exquisite workmanship. THE THUILLERIES. 151 In 1664, Louis XIV. completed the embellishment of this palace. Previous to this, the large pavilion in the centre consisted only of the Ionic and Corinthian orders. To these he added the Composite, and crown- ed the building with an additional story. This pavilion, whether viewed from the court or the garden, presents a beautiful specimen of architecture. The whole fa 9 ade is adorned with Ionic pillars, placed on pedestals. Above these, on the three centre pavilions, and the piles of building which connect them, appears the Corinthian order, over which is the attic story of the palace, sur- mounted by a balustrade. The balustrade of the pavi- lions at the extremities is surmounted by elegant stone vases. The two other ranges of building, with the pavi- lions which terminate them, are adorned with fluted columns of the Composite order. The pillars are all formed of superb brown and red marble. The portico of the centre pavilion towards the court is peculiarly beautiful, the ground-floor is decorated by columns of the Ionic order, and on either side of the gate are exquisite antique statues of Apollo and a Faun. Above are superb columns of brown and red marble, of the Composite order, supporting a triangular pedi- ment. In the centre is the clock of the palace, and below are two recumbent statues of Justice and Pni- dence. The portico towards the garden is similarly orna- mented, but the columns are not constmcted of mar- ble. The niches on each side of the vestibule are de- corated by antique marble statues of Mars and Miner- va, and on either side of the gate is a lion of white marble with its foot on a globe. On the galleries are eighteen marble statues of Roman senators clad in the toga, and in other parts of the facade ai’e twenty-two busts of Roman emperors and generals. Though each part taken separately is beautiful and perfect, it is much to be regretted that so little unity 152 THE THUILLERIES. of design prevails. Vfe plainly reckon five difTerent orders of architecture, and five distinct species of orna-' inent succeeding each other without connection and without harmony. The transition from the second pavilion to the range of buildings beyond it, is lil^ewise extremely harsh and abrupt. The extraordinary height of the roof in the front towards the garden has likewise been censured by some architects. It gives an air of heaviness to the whole facade, which the relief of the beautiful colonnade, enriched with numerous vases and statues, cannot alto- gether remove. An iron palisade, erected on a wall two feet in height, encloses the coach-yard of the palace, and di- vides it from the Carousel. The beautiful triumphal arch, erected by Napoleon, will be described in another part of this work. The gardens of the Thuilleries are the work of Le- nostre, and are much admired for the simple yet im-' posing style in which they are laid out. The principal walk extending through the whole length of the garden, arid bordered by fine orange-trees in every progressive stage of vegetation, forms a de- lightful promenade in summer. In the morning these gardens are the resort of the politician, who, for four sous, is accommodated with a chair and a newspaper. In the afternoon and evening they are crowded % a gayer assembly. The fashionable hours of promenade are from noon until fom' or five o’clock in the winter, from eight to ten o’clock in the evening during the summer. Chairs are let out for two sous for the evening. The view of the garden from the portico of the pa- lace is much admired. After wandering through an immense parterre bordered with orange-trees, enriched with statues, and diversified by fountains and basins of water, the eye glances over the square of Louis XV. ; THE THUILLERIES. 153 and the view is continued across the beautiful walks of the Elysian Fields, and through the avenue of Neuilly, to the triumphal arch which crowns the summit of the hill, and pleasingly closes the prospect. The terrace of the garden towards the Seine affords an interesting view of the river, the magnificent edifices of the Quai-d’Orsai, and the Elysian Fields. On the opposite terrace, the avenue through the noble street of Rivoli discovers the square ofVendome, the triumphal column, and the Boulevards beyond. Some fine specimens of ancient sculpture, and many excellent copies from the antique, are placed in various parts of the gardens. The traveller will particularly notice the statue of JEneas carrying his father Anchises, near the circular basin ; Atalanta and Hippomenes in the shrubbery ; and Meleager at the extremity of the orange-walk. On the terrace, in front of the palace, are eight sta- tues, and two richly-sculptured marble vases : the statue before the portico, on the left (towards the river), is a Venus seated on a turtle, she is supposed to be coming out of the water. This statue is in bronze, and copied from the antique ; the three others, on that side, are two nymphs, and a hunter in marble, by Coustou, placed at the extremity of the terrace that borders the Seine ; on the right side (towards the rue de Rivoli), the grinder (Remouleur) in bronze, copied from the antique ; the three other statues are a faun, a wood nymph, and a Flora, by Coysevox, all in marble. Round the circular basin, on the left, in the grand parterre, the metamorphosis of Atlas, a colossal figure, by Coustou the elder ; then, Barcas carrying off Ori- thea, by Marly and Elamen ; and next to this, ^neas carrying his father Anchises on his shoulders, and lead- ing his son Ascanius by the hand, the chef-d’oeuvre of the celebrated statuary Lepautre. Round the cii’cular irA THE THUILLERIES. l:)asin, to the right, the inetamorphoGis of Daplin6 ‘ then Saturn carr3/ing off' Cj’^bele ; and lastly, the death of Liicretia, begun at Rome by Theodon, and finished at Paris by Lepautre. In the transversal valley of lime-trees Avhich sepa- rates the parterre from the two groves of horse-ches- niit trees ; — to the right, a Diana and two vases, to the left, Julius CcPsar and two vases ; a muse, commonly called the muse of Farnese, and a bad copy of the Hercules of Farnese. On entering the groves is discovered in each an en- closed green recess, surrounded by an iron railing, and bordered on the inside with beds of flowers. iThe ex- tremities towards the groves of these charming little enclosures, are paved with white marble, which is in part surrounded by elevated semi-circular benches, likewise of marble. Before one of these benches, in the grove to the left, is a statue in marble representing a Faun carrying a kid, and looking at Apollo and Daphne running before him. In the enclosure at the entrance of the »grovc to the right, Apollo seems to be judging the race between Hippomenes and Atalanta, charmingly executed by Lepautre. In the other parts of the grove, to the right, is a group representing Castor and Pollux, by Coustou and Lepautre ; together wdth a Centaur and an Empress. In the grove to the left, a group representing Bacchus and a young Hercules ; and farther on, two Wrestlers by Mangin, and a Wild Boar, finely executed. The two groves are separated by a very wide ave- nue, facing the centre of the palace. At the extremity of this magnificent avenue is a very large octagon ba- sin, round which are placed ten statues : to the left, Scipio Africanus, by Coustou the younger; two others, one representing Spring, and the other Summer ; then Agrippina, and lastly Silenus; to the right, towards THE THUILLEIIIES. 155 the palace, Hannibal counting the rings of the Roman knights slain at the battle of Cannae ; Winter, Autumn, a Vestal, and a Bacchus. Round the same octagon basin, towards the place of Louis XV., are placed four groups: the first, to the right, representing the Tiber, by Vanclave; the second, the Seine and the Marne, by Coustou the elder. To the left, the Nile, copied from the antique, by Bourdic ; the Loire and the Loiret, by the same artist. In the left niche of the walls of the terrace is a Venus, and in that to the right a copy of the Mercury ofFarnese. At the grand entrance of the garden. Mercury and Fame, seated on v/inged horses, publishing the exploits of Louis XIV. These two groups, by Coysevox, are finely executed, particularly the horses. Opposite to them are two others, at the entrance of the Champs Elysees, representing horses tamed, and herd by slaves ; they were the last production of William Coustou, and are master-pieces of art. Upon what is called the Fer li Cheval (horse-shoe) of the terrace, are the Nine Muses ^d Apollo. On the terrace towards the river, by the side of the parterre, are placed four beautiful marble vases, and six bronze statues ; namely, an Antinous ; a Venus com- i ng out of a bath ,* the Pythian, or Belvidere Apollo ; the group of the Laocoon; Hercules holding his infant son Telephus in his left arm; and a very fine statue in _ marble of Diana the liuntress, opposite the entrance of The grove. The four vases are placed in the intervals Ibetween the statues. Four vases brought from Marly, richly and exqui- sitely wrought, are placed at the top of the double flight of stone steps which lead from the garden to tlie middle of the terrace. In a niche between the two [flights of steps is a bcautifiil bronze statue, rei)rescnting 156 THE THUILLERIES. Ariadne asleep in the island of Naxos, commonly called the Cleopatra. At the commencement of the walk of orange-trees, is placed a group between four beautiful marble vases. This group is commonly called the Papirius and his Mother, although by some supposed to represent the first interview between Electra and Orestes. At the other extremity of this walk is the Meleager, an admirable statue. Behind the Meleager, to the right, is a statue fixed to the wall, representing Hygeia. The apartments of the palace, for extent, height, and magnificence, are well worthy of observation. Tickets of admission are easily procured by applying to any of the officers of the household, or the domes- tics. The best time for application is about four o’clock, when the king is taking his daily airing, and the whole of the apartments are shewn. Three or four francs will be considered a sufficient perquisite to the person who shews the palace. The noble vestibule contains three statues, one of Minerva, opposite to the grand staircase ; a Freedman on the right, and a Peasant on the left. The staircase conducts to the chapel, and to the state apartments. After traversing a spacious guard-room, the Concert Saloon, the Hall of the Mar- shals, and the Saloon of Peace, all of them richly or- namented, and in the most appropriate manner, the stranger arrives at the Hall of Audience, peculiarly splendid and magnificent. Within this are the private apartments of the king. The duke of Angculeme in- habits the upper apartments, and Monsieur the Pavi- lion of Marsan. The council of state holds its sittings in the gallery of the Museum, and the chapel is on the right. Should the traveller wish to see the royal family at chapel, he must attend at the review which takes place THE PALAIS ROYAL. 157 every Sunday morning in the court of the Thuilleries. At the close of the review, the gates are opened for admission at the chapel. If our tourist is properly dressed, he may possibly obtain a seat in the same gal- lery with the royal family ; but if he is clothed either in boots or pantaloons, he will in vain apply for ad- mittance. In any dress, however, he may enter the body of the chapel, and he will be amply gratified by the touching and sublime performance of the service of the mass, although he will not get one glimpse of the royal family. Professional singers assist in the service. Le Palais Boyal, The Royal Palace. IRue St. HonorS.1 The Palais Royal was begun by cardinal Richelieu in 1629, on the site which had been occupied by the hotels Mercoeur and Rambouillet. The celebrated Le Mercier was employed as the architect. As the fortunes of the cardinal augmented, he en- larged on the original plan. It was completed in 1636, and its tout-ensenible formed of successive additions, was a curious yet accurate representation of the grow- ing wealth and power of its owner. It was then called Le Palais Cardinal. At his death he bequeathed it to Louis XIII. He died in the following year, when his widow, Ann of Austria, quitted the Louvre, and established herself in this edifice with her young son Louis XIV. and his brother the duke of Anjou. From this circumstance it was called Le Palais Royal, although the queen, from gratitude to the donor, caused the inscription Le Palais Cardinal ” to be placed over the principal portal. p 158 THE PALvVIS ROYAL. The square, in front of the palace towards the street St. Honore, was now completed. In 1692, Louis XIV. gave it to his nephew, Philip of Orleans, on his marriage with Maria-Frances of . Bourbon. That part of the building that reaches to the street Richelieu was now completed, and which the cardinal had destined as his library. In the right wing of the palace at this period, was an immense hall, capable of containing 3,000 persons. The Italian comedians, and the company Moliere per- formed here. On the same spot was built the opera- house that was burned in 1781. The left wing was occupied by a vast gallery, the roof of which had been painted by Philip de Cham- pagne, and represented the principal events of the life of the cardinal. This was destroyed to build a resi- dence for Philip of France, the only brother of the king. In process of time it descended to the revolutionary duke of Orleans, to whom it is indebted for its present magnificence, and for its present disgrace. The front towards the street of St. Honore was built by him after the destruction of the opera-house. It presents two pavilions, adorned with Doric and Ionic columns, and crowned with pediments. The buildings of the first court have Doric and Ionic pilasters, and Doric columns ornament the vestibule which conducts to the second court, where is another magnificent facade composed of two pavilions, with Ionic columns sur- mounted by a pediment. On the right of the vestibule is the grand staircase, which, although it is said to be deficient in some of its proportions, will excite the admiration of the spectator. The present building is in the form of a pai’allelo-* gram, and of the most elegant modern architecture. I'he parapet that surroLiilds it, decorated with immense 7 THE PALAIS ROYAL. 15D Stone vases of exquisite beauty, will not fail to attract attention. The whole of the circuitous extent, without any intermption of the galleries, is nearly half a mile. Passing under the porticoes, an immense square un- expectedly opens on the traveller. In the centre is a garden interspersed by many young and fiourishing trees, and encircled by lattice-work. In the centre of this garden is a large circular basin, with a fountain in the middle, which throws out water to a considerable height in various directions. Around it is a building worthy of the name which it bears. It is indeed a royal palace, and worthy to become the residence of the sovereign of a great country. But the crimes of its former owner have rendered it a strange, unique, and disgraceful scene, which defies all description. Having exhausted his noble revenues by a course of luxury and profligacy of which history scarcely affords a parallel, he was driven to some desperate expedient to save himself from utter ruin. He determined to convert the residence of a prince into an immense bazaar. The beautiful arcades of the lower galleries were divided by diminutive and ill-executed pilasters, and the garden was surrounded by a row of little shops, which were speedily let to the highest bidder. Had he stopped here he might have been forgiven ; but, urged by avarice, or by the desire of obtaining, exhaustless resources to support his unhallow^ed pur- suits, or to enable him to , accomplish the murder of his sovereign, he consigned other apartments of the palace to the most infamous purposes. A few' of the upper galleries were appropriated to the lectures of the various professors, others were let to restaurateurs, but more were devoted to the accommodation of the gambler and the sensualist, and became the favourite Ijaunt of every species of vice and debauchery. 160 THE PALAIS ROYAE. The arcades of the ground story are occupied by innumerable shops of small dimensions, but tastefully and elegantly fitted up. Every article of luxury, every thing which can contribute to the ornament of the person, to the gratification of the appetite, to the improvement of the intellect, or the contamination of the heart, is found here. Should the traveller be in want of habiliments, an artist at the end of the wooden gallery boasts that he will furnish him a complete suit of clothes before he can peruse the Moniteur, with which he is presented to pass the time. Have his inferior garments suffered by the mud which is eternally running through the streets of Paris, and with which every pedestrian is plentifully bespattered, he enters the neat little shop of a dealer in jet-like blacking ; he is seated on a form covered with velvet, the journals of the day are put into his hand, and in a few moments not only do his boots rival the lustre of the mirror, but every office of the valet is performed with expertness and elegance. Should the wants of nature imperiously urge their claims, he will find, near the shops, several little retreats that will offend neither the visual nor the olfactory nerves of the most fastidious, and into which he may gain admittance for the trifling sum of three sous ; and he will be gratuitously supplied with a sufficient portion of the works of those authors whose lucubrations have been doomed by the public to assist in the mysteries of Cloacina. The establishment of these little cabinets was formerly peculiar to the Palais Royal; and is not the least ingenious, or the least laudable of the inventions of the eccentric founder. The booksellers’ shops, or rather stalls, will attract attention in the day, and the jewellers’ at night. In the former, every work of literature may be procured ; but the shops of the Palais Royal are peculiarly cele- brated as the emporium of every licentious production. THE PALAIS ROYAL. 16 * I whether in the form of book, caricature, or print. Al- though these are not often obtruded on the view of the passenger, yet they are readily produced at the slightest requisition ; and their merits are descanted on with the greatest volubility and the most perfect non-chalance by the females, who frequently officiate in the^ bou- tiques. The traveller should be informed, that the merchants of the Palais Royal can by no means be recommended for the moderation of their charges. They pay an enormous rent for their diminutive shops % and they are compelled to reimburse themselves by the exorbi- tance of their prices. It likewise not unfrequently hap- pens, that the trader of the Palais Royal will take half, or even less than half, of what he first demands of the stranger. One part of the gallery is known by the expressive title, “ The camp of the Tartars.” Beneath are subterranean apartments, in one of which a motley assembly is dancing to the music of some wretched performer; in a second, an equally ill- assorted group are regaling themselves with their favourite liqueurs, from the vin de Burgundie to simple small beer ; in a. third, a number of miserable objects are crowding around the hazard or the billiard-table ;~ and, if you dare to enter into the fourth, you witness the most disgusting scenes of debauchery and vice. Ascending once more to the arcades, the stranger ad- mires the cleanly and elegant appearance of the restau- rateurs or taverns. The English epicure can form no conception of the rich and almost innumerable dishes which there invite his taste. The coffee-houses are * A shop composed of one arcade only, in the stone galleries, lets for 3000 francs; an' arcade from top to bottom is worth about 5000 francs ; so that a house composed of five arcades, (five windows in front) lets for the enormous sum of 25,000 francs per annum. 162 THE PALAIS ROYAL. eonvenient and elegant, and constantly filled. The prices are the same throughout the Palais Royal. Half a cup of coffee costs 8 sous ; a glass of Cogniac brandy 5 sous; a glass of liqueur 8 sous, and some dearer; a carafe of lemonade, orgeat, and bavaroises, 1 5 sous ; and an ice 1 franc. A tea breakfast 36 sous. If the traveller now ascend to the first floor, a different and unexpected scene breaks upon him. He is admitted into the very abode of gaming and ruin. Innumerable rooms open in succession, and all of them crowded, in which every game of hazard or of skill is played. These are authorized by law ; they are under the immediate sanction of government, and contribute largely to its support. In order to facilitate the circulation of the money staked, each table is provided with short wooden instru- ments, called rateaux, which collect the money scattered over the table. Other ranges of apartments are occupied by restau- rateurs ; and some are appropriated to scientific pur- suits. Lectures on the Belles Lettres, and on every branch of philosophy, are daily, and almost hoimly delivered. Literary societies here hold their meetings : while the neighbouring apartments are occupied by the fashionable impure. The Palais Royal is the favomdte haunt and chosen residence of this miserable and de- graded class of society. The regulations of the police, with respect to these unhappy beings, are peculiar. Every prostitute is com- pelled to take out a license at the proper bimeau, for which she pays a stipulated sum. Her name, her age, and her abode, are entered in the books of the police : once in every month she is visited by a medicd man, appointed for the purpose, who gives her, or withholds according to circumstances, 2 ^ carte de sante, or bill of health. Should she dare to pimsue her calling without this license and this medical insurance, she is liable to THE LUXEMBOVRG. 163 fine, imprisonment, and corporal puniriiment. How far these regulations are compatible with morality or good policy — how far they may be pernicious in de- stroying the salutary, and, too frequently, the principal restraint on the criminal indulgence of the passions, — I will not now inquire : but this is undeniable, that while, in few countries, licentiousness is so little obtru- sive as in France, in no country is her reign so firmly established, and her baneful influence so extended through every rank of society. If the traveller climbs still higher, he witnesses more deplorable scenes of depravity. Here he finds the lower and more disgusting prostitutes; he is surrounded by sharpers of every description ; and it is well if he escapes without paying dearly for his curiosity. Such is the Palais Royal. It is a little world. It comprises in it every character, and almost every scene that can be imagined, — every thing to inform the under- standing, and every thing to corrupt the heart. Palais du lauxemhourg. The Luxembourg. Now called Palais de la Chamhre des Pairs* Palace of the Chamber of Peers. [Rue de Vau^rard.] Of all the royal palaces in the metropolis, and even in France, none surpasses the Luxemboui*g in magnifi- cence. It was completed in six years by Jacques Des- brosse, for Mary de Medicis, widow of Henry IV. It forms nearly a square; the front, towards the street Tournon and the garden, being 360 feet long, and the other fronts about 300 feet. It consists of one vast court, sm*rounded by porticoes, and flanked by four square buildings, called pavilions. 164 < THE LUXEMBOURG. The principal front of this fine structure is composed of one principal building, terminated by large square pavilions; while a noble pavilion likewise elevates itself from the centre, crowned by a light and elegant dome. This dome is composed of the Doric and Ionic orders ; and ornamented by numerous gigantic figures, holding wreaths of flowers. The architecture through- out is distinguished by its bold and masculine character, and by the regularity and beauty of its proportions. The pavilions, at the extremities, are connected with the body of the building by low galleries, each sup- ported by nine arcades, which give light to large cor- ridors, beautifully arched. In the centre is an elegant portico ; beneath which is the great gate, conducting to a spacious court; at the extremity of which is a terrace, ornamented by a ballustrade of white marble, and universally admired. From this terrace, a staircase ascends to the principal apartments. These, although now divested of many of the fine specimens of art which once enriched them*, retain much of their primitive splendour. All the riches of architecture and sculpture have been lavished on the little gallery which leads to the garden. The enormous pavilions that project towards the gardens, are the only objectionable parts in this noble building. They give too heavy and massive an appear- ance to that front of the palace. The pavilions, in all the edifices of this period, were copied from the enor- mous towers with which the gothic chateaux and castles were flanked. Desbrosse here too closely followed his original. The peculiar indented style of the columns, and of all the ornaments, gives the building much too castellated an appearance for a palace. Not- withstanding these trifling defects, the Luxembourg * They have been recently sent to the Louvre. See the Catalogue. THE LUXERTBOURG, 165 cannot fail to please ; even from the solidity of its con- struction, and likewise from the symmetry and beautiful arrangement of all its parts, and that perfect regularity, and finished appearance, which is so rarely met with in large edifices. The principal pictures have been removed to the Louvre, which is again become the principal attraction for works of art. The Luxembourg is open to the inspection of the public every Saturday and Sunday, from ten till four. The front of the palace on the garden side is not less pleasing than the grand front ; and the garden itself begins to lose much of the sombre appearance that it once possessed, and to correspond in beauty with the edifice to which it belongs. The principal walks are luxuriantly ornamented with orange-trees, tastefully arranged, and presenting pictilresque groups, inter- spersed with vases and statues. A large sheet of water, surrounded by a terrace, spreads itself in front of the building. If the garden of the Luxembourg is not so magnificent as that of the Thuilleries, it is, nevertheless, very agree- able, and from its elevated situation, commands many delightful views of the most distant parts of the city. The successive additions that have been made to the garden, have caused it to become one of the most extensive, as well as one of the most beautiful prome- nades in Paris. The noble monastery of the Chartreux, with its vast dependencies, once occupied the right side of the garden. The manner in which this territory came into the possession of the monks is singulai* and ridiculous. The chateau of Vauvert, built by Robert II., the son of Hugh Capet, having been abandoned, a report Mas propagated, that innumerable demons had made it their abode. The most frightful forms were seen, and the most terrific noises were heard every night. No one 166 THE PALACE OP JUSTICE. dared to approach the fatal walls after sunset, arid the inhabitants of the neighbouring houses fled in terror from their dwellings. The monks of the Carthusian monastery of Gentilly, whose desire of aggrandizement overcame their fears of the mysterious inhabitants of the chateau, or who, possibly, were already well qualified to give a good account of the nocturnal revels, petitioned St. Louis to grant them the deserted edifice and its domains, pledg- ing themselves to exorcise the fiends, and to deliver the neighbourhood from the disturbers of its repose. They took possession of the chateau with much im- posing solemnity, and the demons were required to quit for ever the domains which were now consecrated to the service of God. They heard, trembled, and obeyed. Neither the vigils of the ghostly fathers, nor the slumbers of the superstitious peasants were again disturbed. The monastery remained about 600 years, but it appeared at its dissolution that the exorcism of the friars had been effectual. Although the property again fell into secular hands, and is now devoted to pm’poses of pleasure, the fiends that once haunted it have not dared to re-appear, nor are they heard of, except in the jests of the citizens of Paris, to whom the tradition is familiar, and by whom it is often recounted. The fountain resembling a grotto, at the entrance of the garden, should not escape the traveller’s attention. Valais de Justice, The Palace of Justice. The term Palace is applied to this edifice because it was formerly the residence of the kings of France. It is supposed to have been built by Eudes in the ninth centuiy, and it was considerably augmented by St. Louis, who added to it the chamber which yet bears his THE PALACE OF JUSTICE. 167 name, the hall called the “ Great Chamber,” and the Holy Chapel. Philip the Fair almost re-constructed it, and it became the usual abode of the French mo- narchs. It merely consisted, however, of several enor- mous towers, which communicated with each other by means of long galleries. Some of the buildings yet remaining on the Quai de I’FIorloge will give a sufficient idea of it. The grand hall is frequently spoken of by the French historians. The kings there received the ambassadors of foreign nations, and it was the scene of their most splendid entertainments. It was adorned by the statues of the successive monarchs from the time of Pharamond. At the upper end was a marble table of enormous and almost incredible dimensions. The princes of the blood were alone admitted to the honours of this table. In 1618, the palace ‘was destroyed by fire, and the statues of the kings and the magnificent marble table disappeared for ever. Desbrosses, the architect of the Luxembourg, was employed to rebuild the edifice. An iron palisade, 120 feet in length, encloses an im- mense court, surrounded on three sides by buildings. The centre gate of the palisade is a curious proof how easily beauty and effect may be destroyed by multi- plicity of ornament. At the bottom of the court is a grand flight of steps, which gives an air of magnificence to a building other- wise not remarkable. At the summit of the steps are four noble Doric pillars, surrmounted by a balustrade ; and on the entablature are four gigantic upright statues, representing Justice, Fortitude, Plenty, and Prudence. A quadrangular dome crowns this mass of buildings. At the bottom of the steps, on each side, are two arcades, one of which leads to the Conciergerie. The rest of the palace is constructed of arcades, sup- porting two floors of the Doric order, surmounted by an attic. 168 THE PALACE OF JUSTICE, A staircase on the right conducts to the grand hall. It is composed of two immense parallel naves, arched with stone, and separated by a range of arcades. The light is received from enormous windows at the extre- mities. Although the centre is thus rendered somewhat obscure, yet this disposition of the light gives to the hall an air of religious and awful grandeur. The Doric order prevails in the decorations of the hall, and the architecture does honour to the period in which it was executed. Some puny critics have spoken of irregularities and omissions, and have made the notable discovery, that one side contains a demi-pilaster less than other ; but the traveller of taste will feel the imposing effect of the whole, and do full justice to the talents of the architect. This hall is now devoted to the sittings of the Court of Cassation. In another part of the building the Cour.RoyaJe is held. On the staircase which conducts to it is a statue of Law, with this inscription. In legibus saltis. The Court of Assizes has its sittings at the extremity of the gallery called Dauphine. The first sections of the Civil Tribunal are held on the side of the Court Lamoignon ; and the four last around the hall Des Pas Perdus. The Exchequer is established in a separate edifice in the Court of the Holy Chapel. Some of the galleries are surrounded by shops of confectioners and booksellers, affording every kind of food for the body and the mind. The oak ceiling de- serves attention. On the side towards the river is the prison of the Conciergerie, the scene of the most horrible atrocities in the second year of the Revolution. • f/' ..' • T ,t?j'- / by-tl ■'jiov /’ ‘jfv.'-n/i.^ ^.n^v ; . ‘^.■■' iiiol siti i., cdl l^^ ri/iiisd ■^rf:: : ■i/p2 t+di oi ' '- ^-T'/X '-jiir:*." '' “io v.iyrf r 3iv;r//?mo5 h/ws j, =-;L : ■: ' /i. 1 Sflj l^'u^ .'; >; :'?:d o:* iLi S'rf^ HQ ssB-ifoa saj lo Dd:. .■- ' . ??'.'? l»qf ^ ,.KiniOO ^rf-r ' 'doii iivnto lo ■!? .-latjbjjT’-'f.-i h^::i 1 rjhv:? n?M-:oi.'Tor C':;'-.’ -d S'u*-- d' "> i -i'.’ .■i;". -a-. 5-!d‘«-? 3 !: .;.;';-leted it. THE LOUVRE, 173 It is composed of two peristyles, and three project- ing buildings on a ground-floor, which form one coli-^ tinned basement. The lateral projecting buildings are adorned by six pilasters, and two columns of the Co- rinthian order, while that in the centre is composed of eight columns, and crowned with a pediment, on which is a bas-relief representing Victory in a car, distributing crowns. Above is a triangular pediment, beautifully executed. The bust of Louis XIV. occupies the highest part : Minerva is placing it on a pedestal, and History is writing the following words underneath : “ Ludovico Magno.” Well-ex#cuted figures of the Muses fill the remainder of the composition. The general appearance of whole is indisputably grand and majestic. It is, howbver, open to much cri- ticism : the substruction on which it stands is too high in proportion to the elevation of the colonnade. The pillars are coupled, which destroys the proportion be- tween them and the intercolumniations. The shafts are too thin for their length ; and the heavy masses at the ends and in the centre, throw an- air of gloomi- ness over the whole fabric. In this building is deposited the King’s Museum of painting and sculpture, which will be described in its proper place. The architecture of the celebrated gallery which connects the Louvre with the Thuilleries is the same as that of the pavilions of the Thuilleries, without the attic, but disfigured by numberless pediments, alter- nately triangular and curvilinear. Towards the middle the style changes, and, instead of the single Corinthian, three different and whimsical Composite forms ain in- troduced, to the great detriment of the architectm’al appearance. Buonaparte, wishing to complete the square, began the communication on the opposite side, and had erected more than a third of it at the period of his dethronement. The work is still cai’ried on. 174 . THE archbishop’s PALACE. Palais Archiepiscopal. The Archbishop’s Palace. [Rue de l^Eveche.] A MODERN pavilion on each side, with an iron grate, form the entrance to the fifst court of this palace, situ- ated on the south of the cathedral. The gate is orna- mented with two Ionic columns, surmounted by a semi- circular pediment. In the second court stands the old palace, which presents a beautiful fa9ade, built by Louis XV. On the east it is augmented by a new, but neither magni- ficent nor elegant, building. The staircase conducting to the principal apartments is much celebrated. The situation on the banks of the river, and the view which it commands towards the east, are peculiarly fine. It is a curious circumstance, that, in the hall of this very palace, the National Assembly held that sitting at which all the possessions of the clergy were declared to be national property. Le Palais de la Legion d^Honncur, Palace of the Legion of Honour. Formerly Hotel de Salm. Rue de Bourbon. The Hotel de Salm, built a little before the Revo- lution, was one of the most elegant edifices which Paris contained. Its only defect was, that it resembled some public building rather than the house of an individual. The purpose to which it is now devoted has completely removed this trivial objection, PALACE OP THE FINE ARTS- 175 Toward the street de Bourbon it presents a tri- umphal arch, flanked by a colonnade of the Ionic order, terminated by two handsome lodges. This encloses a spacious court, at the bottom of which is the grand front of the palace. It consists of a noble portico, of the Corinthian order, on each side of which is a colonnade of the Ionic order. The principal saloon elevates itself in the form of a rotunda, the cupola of which is enriched with some exquisite paintings, de- scriptive of the establishment of the legion ; and round the saloon will be placed the statues of those deceased members, who may be deemed worthy of that distinction. The apartments are adorned with elegant simplicity. Palais des Beaux Arts. Palace of the Fine Arts. This edifice, erected by the cardinal Mazarine, was long known by the name of “ The College of the Four Nations,’* because it was designed by its nbble founder to receive sixty pupils of the four nations conquered by Louis XIV. The ashes of the cardinal repose in the church near the sanctuary. It is now appropriated to the use of the Institute, which has resumed its former name, “ The Royal Academy.” It is of a semicu’cular form, composed of two pa- vilions, two ranges of buildings flanking them, and a portico of the Corinthian order in the centre sur- mounted by a dome much admired. Some exquisite groups by Desjardins, ornament the portico. In the first court on the left is the Mazarine Library, and that of the Academy. In the next court is the 176 PALAIS d’eLYSEE BOURBON. school of the Fine Arts, and the Architectural Gallery of that school. The ancient Chapel is now appropriated to the sit- tings of the Academy. It is decorated with the busts of the most celebrated French literati. Palais d^JLlysee Bourbon, [Rue du Faubourg St. HonorL] This palace, remarkable for its luxurious eleganccy. was built by the Comte d’Evreux in 1Y18. The volup- tuous Madame de Pompadour afterwards possessed it. It next became the appointed residence of the foreign ambassadors extraordinary. In 1775, it was purchased by the financier Beaujon, who considerably embellished it, and shortly after it came into the possession of Madame de Bourbon. During the early years of the Revolution, the go- vernment printing-office was established in this palace.- It afterwards belonged to Murat, who yielded- it to the solicitations of Buonaparte, to whom it owes all the decorations of the interior. During the first visit of the allied Monarchs, it was the residence of the emperor of Russia. On the re- turn of Buonaparte from Elba it became his favourite abode, and it received him after his escape from the fatal field of Waterloo. At his final departure, it became the habitation of his conqueror; and the Duke of Wellington established himself there. The view from the gardens, extending over th& Elysian Fields,' is very interesting. It is now the residence of the Duke of Bourbon, HOTEL OF THE KINg’s BODY GUARD. 177 Palais du Temple, Palace of the Temple. [l?Me du Temple. No. 80 .] Op this edifice, which was built by the Templars about the middle of the twelfth century, there remains only the palace of the Grand Prior. It was celebrated in the last century for the suppers of the Grand Prior of Vendome, at which Voltaire, Lamothe, Fontenelle, and all the literati of the age used to assemble. Five hundred thousand francs have lately been ex- pended in repairing and enlarging it. Its entrance is decorated by isolated columns of the Ionic order, and a spacious court conducts to the prin- cipal building, in which elegance and convenience are united. Hotel de M. M, les Gardes du Corps du Roi, Hotel of the King’s Body Guard. [Qwrti d^Orsai.'] This beautiful hotel stands on the quay, opposite to the Thuilleries. It is the effect of the whole which pleases, rather than the beauty of any particular part ; for its long front presents no other remarkable orna- ment than the arms of France, executed in relief, above the principal gate. The escutcheon is supported by two female %ures, executed by Taunay. One re- presents Fame blowing a trumpet, and holding a crown ; the other female has her left hand on a sceptre, while her right encloses a branch of laurel. ]78 LA TOUR DE ST. JEAN DE LATRAK, Palais des Thermes, Palace of the Warm Baths. de la Harpe.'] Let not our reader be surprised that we rank this little, but precious relique of antiquity, among the palaces of the metropolis. Inconsiderable as it now appears, it was once the residence of the Roman em- perors, and in later times the chosen habitation of the kings of France. It is supposed to have been built and inhabited by Julian the Apostate about the year 357. There remains only a noble hall roofed by a lofty arch, much admired by the antiquary. The hall is 58 feet long, 56 wide, and 40 in height, A large window in the form of an arcade enlightens it. The arch, like those of all the Roman buildings, is com- posed of bricks and stone, cemented by a mortar which modern ingenuity has not yet equalled. For many revolving ages it has supported a garden, the mould of which is at least four feet thick ; and although this has been constantly moistened by the rain, and by artificial means, not the least damp has yet penetrated the vault. Beneath is a double row of caves, or vaults, nine feet in diameter, the intention of which is not known. These ruins were lately occupied by a cooper, but have been purchased by the French government for the recep- tion of the monuments of antiquity, from the Petits Augustins. La Tour de SL Jean de Latran, [Near St. Genevieve.] This curious morsel of antiquity should not be over- looked by the traveller. It is supposed to have been part of the palace built by Clovis. 179 PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Garde Meuble. Wardrobe. Place de Louis XV. Louis XVth’s Square. This edifice adorns the north side of the square, and was built by Gabrielle, in 1768. On sub-basements, pierced by arcades, two peristyles elevate themselves, formed of isolated columns of the Corinthian order. Above the colonnade is a balustrade, and the whole front is richly embellished with the greatest variety of sculpture. Next to the Louvre it presents the most magnificent fa 9 ade of any of the public edifices of Pai-is. Although many valuable articles which this fabric formerly contained became a prey to revolutionary fury, there still remain sufficient specimens to gratify the stranger’s curiosity; particularly the battles of Scipio, Oudry’s hunting-pieces, the history of Don Quixote, and the polished armour worn by Francis I. at the battle of Pavia. U Ohservatoire. The Royal Observatory. [jRwe du Faubourg Saint Jacques. Street of the Suburb of Saint James.] This building was erected by Perrault, under the great Colbert, in 1 667. Its exterior is grand and its aspect imposing. The simplicity of its design, and the har- mony of its parts, announce a public edifice of the first order, though erected on a superficies too contracted. The principal mass is a square with octagonal towers at two of the angles, and a projecting building on the 180 THE TOWN HALL, opposite side. It stands exactly north and south, and a meridional line runs through the great hall. It is com- pletely vaulted throughout, and has neither wood nor iron in its whole construction. In this edifice is pre- served a circular universal chart, designed upon the pavement of one of the large chambers by Chazelle and Sedillan. There is, also, particularly deserving of no- tice, a geometrical staircase, which leaves a vacuity or well, 170 feet deep, at the bottom of which the heavenly bodies are visible at noon- day. It was constructed to measure the acceleration of falling bodies. Connected with this well are a series of caverns for experiments on congelation, &c. They communicate with the subterranean galleries formed under Paris by the ancient quarries. Many of the stalactites, formed by the water filtering through the rocks, are of an enormous size, and very beautiful. It is dangerous to enter these caverns without a guide. Three astronomers are always resident on the spot, who have access to a complete astronomical library, and who are furnished with a superb astronomical apparatus. In addition to this grand observatory, there are five others of considerable consequence, namely, in the Royal College ; at the Hotel Cluny ; at the Pantheon ; at the Military School ; and at the former monastery of the Capuchin Friars, in the Rue St. Honore. This place commands a fine view of the palace and garden of the Luxembourg. Hotel de Ville. The Town Hall. [Place de GreveJ] This edifice was commenced in 1 553, after the de- signs of an Italian ai’chitect, named Boccaridora, some- times called Cortona. , THE EXCHANGE. ^81 The building is regular in its architecture, convenient for the purpose for which it was designed, and rich in beauty and ornament. An equestrian statue of Henry IV., in bas-relief, is placed over the principal entrance, but that entrance is far too small for the great extent of the Hotel. The apartments are extensive, handsome, and com- modious. The clock is a very celebrated piece of me- chanism. The Hotel de Ville is worthy the traveller’s attention, on account of its antiquity, and the extraor- dinary scenes which it has witnessed. When the king was brought from Versailles, he was exhibited to the populace from one of the windows of this mansion. Hither Robespierre retreated, after he had been out- lawed, In front of the Hotel de Ville is the famous lamp-iron, and within the building is preserved the still more celebrated guillotine. ha Bourse. The Exchange. This is held, provisionally, at the Palais Royal, while a nev/ building is erecting in Rue des Filles St. Tho- mas. If we may judge from its present appearance, it will be one of the largest and most beautiful edifices of the kind in Europe. It will be a long square, of a noble yet simple ai’chi- tecture. Its only ornament will consist of a series of medallions, representing the different coins of Em-ope. A peristyle of the Ionic order will surround it, and serve as a promenade in winter. The hours of business are from two till four o’clock daily. R 182 necessary observations. Office de Poste. Post-Office. {_Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau. ^ Post-days for England are Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. All letters must be paid to the coast, and put in before twelve o’clock. Single letters 14 sous. Letters arrive from England on Sa- turdays, Sundays, Mondays, and Tuesdays. There are eight receiving houses, where letters for foreign parts can be put in, namely : — No. 12, Rue des Mauvaises Paroles, No. 2, Rue des Ballets St. Antoine, No. 7, Rue du Grand Chantier, No. 11, Rue Beauregard, No. 3, Rue Neuve Luxembourg, No. 20, Rue Verneuil, No. 8, Rue Conde, and Rue des Fosses Saint Victoire. Receiving-houses for letters in Paris and its envii'ons are very numerous. The postage is 3 sous for Paris, and 4 sous for the environs. For Russia and Sweden, the post goes ojfF daily ; but such letters can be paid only to Hamburgh. Letters for Italy and Germany leave Paris every day, and must be paid to the coast. Letters for Spain are not paid, and go off on Tues- day and Saturday. NECESSARY OBSERVATIONS. It is not permitted to enclose money in letters. There is an apartment in the Post-Office, where mo- ney and other valuable effects are received, on paying at the rate of five per cent. THE MINT. 183 There is also another office where letters and pack- ages of particular consequence are taken in, on the payment of double postage. Letters for the East Indies and the French colonies in America must be paid for as far as the seaport at which they are to be shipped, otherwise they will be thrown among the dead letters. Hotel des Monnaies, The Mint. In 1771, Paris was destitute of a Mint worthy of the capital of a great nation. The ancient edifice which was appropriated to that purpose, and which was situa- ated in the street that now bears its name, opposite to the Pont Neuf, was in ruins. The architect Antoine was appointed to construct a new building on the site of the ancient Hotel Conti. The Hotel des Monnaies was erected, and it forms one of the noblest ornaments of the banks of the Seine. The principal front towards the quay is 560 feet long, and 84 in height. It is ornamented by a projecting building, formed by six Ionic columns, placed on a sub- basement of five arcades. A grand entablature crowns the whole length of the edifice. The projecting build- ing is surmounted by an attic, on which are six de- tached figures, representing Law, Prudence, Fortitude, Commerce, Abundance, and Peace. The front towards the street Guenegaud offers an attic on a sub-basement, of the same height as the preceding. On a projecting building in the centre are figures representing the four Elements. The chief entrance to the Mint is formed of a superb vestibule, ornamented by twenty-four Doric columns. On the right is a magnificent staircase, decorated by 184 * THE BANKi sixteen Ionic columns, and conducting to the principal halls. The entrance to the chapel is under^ one of the arcades on the right of the court. It is a pleasing building, of the Ionic order. The Mint formerly contained a superb collection of medals, but the most valuable of them are now removed to the Royal Library. Many, however, yet remain, well worth attention ; and access may be easily gained every day, by application to the Directors of the Mint. The hall, which contains the Museum, is a noble apart- ment. THE BANK. \Rue de la Vrilliere.'\ Francis Mansard built this Hotel for the Due de la Vriiliere. It was afterwards the property of the Comte de Toulouse, and then of the Due de Penthievre. When it was determined to fix the Bank of France here, the architect Delauny was employed to prepare it for its new destination. He has neglected nothing for the security or convenience of this important establish- ment. The Bank of France has, by the laws of the 14th of April, 1805, and of the 22d of April, 1806, the privi- lege of circulating bills, payable to the bearer, or at sight. This privilege was granted for forty years, to commence on the 23d September, 1803. According to these statutes, and the imperial decree of the 16th January, 1808, it has established houses for discounting in every town of the departments where the nature of the commerce requires them. The transactions of the Bank consist in discounting bills of exchange and other bills, payable to order. l’arsenal. 185 which do not exceed three months, guaranteed by the signatm’es of at least three merchants or reputable tradesmen. The discounting days are Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, in each week. The discount is four per cent, per annum. To be admitted to discount, and to have a running account, it is necessary that you write to the governor, accompanied with a certificate signed by three well- known persons. The transactions of the Bank can be annulled by the simple protestation of a proprietor. Mont de Piete, [Rue des Blancs Manteaux, No. 18.] The purpose to which this edifice is devoted is of a most laudable nature. Small sums are advanced to the poorer classes at little interest, on the deposit of some security or property. It is open from nine until two, and from four to seven. Its architecture is simple and severe. The gate to- wards the street is surmounted by a large pediment, supported by two keys adorned with garlands. The hall on the side of Paradise Street is sustained by Tus- can columns, which have a noble effect. n Arsenal, The Arsenal, The Arsenal is on the borders of the Seine, at the extremity of the Quay of the Celestins. The objects that will principally interest the travel- ler, are a magnificent ceiling, painted by Mignard, and the cabinet in which Henry IV. used to unbosom his 186 THE ROYAL PRINTING-OFFICE. most secret thoughts to his incomparable friend and counsellor^ Sully. The chimney, near which he usually sat, is shown to the visiter. The Marquis de Paulmy, who afterwards inhabited this hotel, would not permit the slightest alteration to be made in the arrangement or decoration of any of the apartments, but placed his chief happi- ness in living surrounded by those objects, on which that good king had gazed, or which he had touched. The Library of the Arsenal will be described under its proper head U Imprimerie Itoyale, The Royal Printing- Office. Formerly V Hotel Soubise. [Rife du ParadiSf au MaraiSj No. 18.] This ancient hotel was the residence of the Constable Oliver Clisson. It was then called the Hotel of Mercy, because after a popular tumult, Charles VI. assembled the citizens, and converted the punishment of death, to which many of them were exposed, into a trifling pecuniary fine. It afterwards became the property of the dukes of Guise, whose name it bore until 1697. Francis de Rohan, Prince de Soubise, then purchased it. In 1712, Cardinal de Rohan erected a new palace close to the former, which he called Le Palais Cardi- nal. Its principal entrance is from Old Temple Street. The front of this last hotel towards the court is very simple. On the garden side it is ornamented by Doric and Ionic columns, surmounted by an attic, and ter- minated by a pediment. THE BARRACKS. 187 The front of the Hotel de Soubise is composed of sixteen colmnns of the Composite order, eight of which form a projecting building, surmounted by Corinthian pillars, and crowned by a pediment. The other eight columns support four statues, and some groups of in- fants by Le Lorrain. Above the pediment are two statues, representing Fortitude and Wisdom. The new court, of an elliptical form, is surrounded by a gallery of fifty-six Composite columns; over which are a terrace and a ballustrade. The effect of the whole is unusually grand. The entrance is decorated, within and without, by double columns. The vestibule and staircase are large and beautiful, and ornamented with paintings, by Bru- netty. The Hotel de Soubise is now appropriated to the reception of the archives of the city. The Hotel Car- dinal is converted into the royal printing-office. The servant at the gate will, probably, refuse admit- tance in the first instance, unless the traveller has a recommendation, or insists on seeing one of the di- rectors. The attendant in the office is not allowed to accept of money from visiters. The collection of types, of every age and character, is immense. It contains no less than 250 presses, and is well worthy the atten- tion of strangers. During the reign of Buonaparte, the Pope visited this wonderful establishment, and the Directors pre- sented him with the Lord’s Prayer printed in fifty dif- ferent languages, and all of them struck off during his visit. Casernes, Barracks. There are no less than twenty-four barracks in Paris and its immediate envkons. Some of them are spaci- 188 THE BARRACKS. ous and elegant. The principal are, Rue de Babylone, No. 25 ; Rue de Clichy, No. 6 ; Rue de la Pepiniere, No. 22; Grande Rue Verte, No. 52; Rue du Fau- bourg Poissonniere, No. 72; Rue du Faubourg du Temple, No. 72; Rue Popincourt, No. 51; and Rue de Loursine, No. 62. 189 PRIVATE BUILDINGS. Many of the private hotels and houses in Paris de- serve the notice of the traveller. He will often be surprised at the massive appearance and laboured or- naments which the residences of almost all above the middle classes present. The following are particularly worthy of observation. Hotel Thelmson. [Rue de Provence.] This hotel beautifully embellishes the end of Provence Street, by its picturesque and theatrical appearance. It was built for Madame Thelusson, by Le Doux, in 1780. It was afterwards occupied by Murat, while he was governor of Paris, and lately became the residence of the Rus- sian ambassador. Hotel de Carnavalet. [Rue Culture Ste. Catherine.] This was once the abode of Madame de Sevigne. It is principally deserving of notice for the statues that adorn its front, representing Fortitude and Vigilance, by Goujon ; and said to be the chefs-d’oeuvre of that artist. Round the court are twelve other figures. Four of them are by the same sculptor, and represent the Seasons. The author of the others is unknown. Hotel Lambert. [Rue St. Louis.] It is remarkable for the grandeur of its architecture, and the beauty of its paintings. The entrance has a noble character; and although modern architects would censure the 190 MAISON ST. GERMAIN. staircase as too heavy, it has been much admired. This hotel formerly contained some of the master- pieces of the best painters of the French school. Many of them are removed, and enrich the museums of the Louvre and Versailles; but sufficient remain amply to repay the traveller for the visit which he makes to the hotel. Hotel JDevaux. [Rue St. Avoye.] This ancient hotel was built by Muet. The architecture is pure, and the proportions are beautifully correct ; but it is much disfigured by modern additions, without unifor- mity and without taste. Matson Batave. The Dutch House. [Rue St. Denis, No. 1 24 .] This edifice, which is inhabited by merchants of every description, stands on the site of the ancient church of St. Sepulchre. The front is 164 feet in length, and consists of seven arcades in the basement, separated by Ionic pillars, and crowned with a balcony. Above are three stories with a Doric cornice. The figure of Mercury is placed in the centre on the sum- mit of a little tower ; other allegorical figures are sculp- tured in bas-relief in the arcades. The principal de- fect of this large building is, that the entrances are not sufficiently numerous or large to admit of a free cir- culation of air through the inner courts. Maison St. Germain. [Rue St. Lazare.] This house was built by Le Doux, in 1772, and pleases from its simple style and well-executed embellishments. MAISON LATHUILE. 191 Trois Matsons Reunies, The Three united Houses. [Rue St. George.] The fronts of these houses, built by M. Bellanger, are much admired, although they con- tain some licenses which cannot be reconciled with any rules of architecture. Matson St. Foix. [Rue basse du Rempart.] The skill of the architect has here triumphed over every disadvantage of situation. Hotel Beaumarchais. [Rue Amelot.] This hotel is built on a singular and ingenious plan. Towards the garden it presents a circular court, surrounded by a covered gallery of twenty arcades, sustained by Doric columns. In the centre is a well-executed copy of an ancient Gladiator. In the building by which this court is nearly en- closed, the most remarkable apartments are the dining- room and 'the saloon. The first is ornamented by a frieze, modelled after that of the temple of Anto- ninus at Rome, and surrounded by a balcony. The saloon is decorated by many enormous mirrors ; in the intervals between which are landscapes and paintings of ruins, by Robert. The antichamber to the saloon has a statue of Voltaire, by Houdon. The garden is laid out in a very picturesque manner. At the extremity towards the street is a pavilion de- dicated to Voltaii*e, and at a little distance a temple of Bacchus. Matson Laihuile. [Rue Poissonniere.] This build- ing is distinguished by its elegant simplicity. The front towards the court has only two stories, and is decorated 8 192 HOTEL DE MATIGNON. by four Doric columns. The garden is considerably lower, and towards it the edifice has three stories. The portico of the ground floor has fom* rustic co- lumns, and the entablature of the first story is sup- ported by four gigantic figures. The garden is taste- fully laid out. Hotel de Brunoy. [Rue Faubourg St. Honor e.] This edifice resembles more a temple than the house of a private individual. It is, indeed, difficult to re- concile its appearance with the idea that it can be simply devoted to domestic enjoyment. Its front con- sists of seven arcades, surmounted by a long frieze, with bas-reliefs. A peristyle projects, composed of six Ionic columns, covered by a kind of pyramid, on the summit of which is a statue of Flora. So much taste and simplicity are combined in the whole building, that the traveller cannot withhold his approbation. The distribution of the interior is equally simple, and admirably convenient. The saloon is supported by reeded pilasters of the Ionic order, and the ceiling is painted by M. Vincent. Two wings project into the garden. That on the right is occupied by a boudoir and the library. The left contains some elegant baths and a cabinet. The view from the apartments extends over the Elysian Fields, from which the garden is separated by a deep fosse. Hotel de la Mademoiselle Guimard. [Rue du Mont Blanc.] The architecture of this building is unique and pleasing. Hotel de Matignon. [Rue de Varenne.] This ap- pears like a magnificent palace on a small scale in the middle of an extensive garden. HOTEL DE MIRABEAU. 193 Hotel RunsM. [Rue St. Dominique.] This hotel presents little that is imposing in its exterior, but nothing can be more magnificent or tasteful than its interior decorations. Hotel de Croy, [Rue de Bourgogne.] This edifice is pffhcipally remarkable for its noble entrance, re- sembling a triumphal arch, adorned with the richest trophies. Maison Dorlian. [Rue du Mont Parnasse.] The architecture of this building is pure and correct. The front is embellished by four columns of the Ionic order, which support a grand bas-relief. Maison Callet. [Rue du Mont Parnasse.] On each side of the door is a gigantic figure on a pedestal sup- porting an entablature. A neat cornice is above the windows of the ground-floor, and above the windows of the second story is a grand bas-relief. Hotel de LonguevUle. [Place du Carousel, No. 16.] This hotel, once the abode of the dukes of Longue- ville and Elbceuf, was transformed into a manufactory of tobacco, and is now used as the king’s stables. Hotel de Mtrabean. [Rue de Seine St. Gei’inain, No. 6.] In this palace died Queen Marguerite, the first wife of Henry IV. 5 194 ? MAISON DU GHANOINE FULBERT. Hotel Cluny. [Rue des Mathurins.] This is one of the most ancient, as well as the most elegant, Gothic stmctures in Paris. It is now the property of M. Prieur, a bookseller. It was built on part of the ground on which Julian’s palace stood. Hotel de Sens. [Rue du Figui^l*, No. 1.] This building, mean as is the pimpose to which it is now devoted, was the habitation of the Chancellor of France, in the reign of Francis I. Mahon du Chanoine Fulhert. [Cour des Chantres, pres Notre Dame.] Two ancient medallions in the wall, representing Eloisa and Abelard, distinguish the house of the Canon Fulbert, so often mentioned in the history of those unfortunate lovers. ANTIQUITIES. 195 ANTIQUITIES, &c. The palace of the Warm-Baths, La Tour de St. Jean Latran, and the Hotel de Cluny, have been al- ready described. The Hotel de Sens, rue du Figuier, No. 1., formerly occupied by Cardinal Duprat, and which, in the reign of Francis I., was worthy of a chancellor of France, is now appropriated to the meeting of waggoners and their train. A bust of Henry IV. indicates the spot where he was assassinated, in the rue de la Ferronerie, a con- tinuation of the rue St. Honore, and then much nar- rower than it is at present. The part of the Vieille rue du Temple, which nearly faces the rue des Blancs-Manteaux, recalls to memory that the Duke d’ Orleans, brother of Charles the Vlth, fell by the numerous daggers directed by the Duke of Burgundy. The hotel of the corner of the rue Bethisy and the rue du Roule, sorrowfully reminds us of the mur- der of Admiral de Coligni on the horrible day of St. Barthelemy. Francis I. possessed a small palace, on the quai des Augustins, called le Palais d’ Amour, on which the poultry market has been lately erected : from this palace there existed a private communication with the Hotel of the Salamander, occupied by his mistress, the celebrated duchess d’Etampes, situated in the now dirty and wretched rue de I’Hirondelle, No. 22. To this grand hotel of days of yore has been sub- S 2 196 ANTIQUITIES. stituted a very ordinary house, occupied by a book- seller and other persons. The Salamander, in stone, which decorated the Dulcinea’s palace, has been care- fully preserved over the porte-cochere, as well as ano- ther in the court-yard. The house of Canon Fulbert, of Notre Dame, the atrocious uncle of Heloisa, has been already mentioned. 197 RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. The clergy of Paris are now composed of an arch- bishop, three vicars general, a metropolitan chapter, consisting of sixteen canons, (two only of whom have the title of first dignitaries of the churches of Notre- Dame and Saint Genevieve,) twelve curates, and twenty-three assisting curates, besides many other ec- clesiastics. Three seminaries were established at Saint- Sulpice, Saint-Nicolas du Chardonnet, and at the Es- tablishment for Foreign Missions. Several religious communities for women are already set on foot. Notre Dame, The Cathedral of our Lady. [Vide Plate.] The Cathedral of Notre Dame is the mother-church of France. It is the most ancient religious edifice in Paris. The episcopal see is also of the greatest anti- quity, deriving its foundation from Denis, the tutelar saint of France. It was erected on the ruins of a temple consecrated to Jupiter, Castor, and Pollux, by the merchants of Paris, in the reign of Tiberius. Some ancient inscrip- tions to this effect were found in the beginning of the last century. This church was named after St. Denis till 522 , when it was rebuilt under Childebert I., and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The building of the present day derives its origin from the time of king Robert the Devout, about the year loio ; but some antiquaries S 5 198 NOTRE DAME. date its foundation under Louis le Jeune, about the year 1177. Its architecture, although Gothic," pos- sesses something so singular, so bold, and at the same time so delicate, that it has ever been esteemed one of the handsomest structures in the kingdom. It is 414 feet long, 144 wide, and 102 in height, without compre- hending the space allotted to forty-five chapels, and the astonishing thickness of the wall. One hundred and twenty enormous columns, which support this edifice, form a double colonnade extending the whole length of the -fabric. The eastern front presents a venerable portico, to which was formerly an ascent of thirteen steps. It contains three portals. The centre portal is of modern architecture, the other two are antique, and are re- markable for a multiplicity of ornaments in the style of the Lower Empire. The centre portal is likewise surrounded by innumerable decorations, but they are evidently of later date. Above them is a gallery, supported by columns, in the intervals of which are twenty-eight statues of the kings of France, from Childebert to Philip-Au- gustus. Over the side portals rise two immense towers, forty feet square, and two hundred and four in height. They command an extensive view of Paris and its environs. Their heavy appearance ill accords with the building to which they belong. Between these towers, and over the window that enlightens the nave, is a second gal- lery, supported by Gothic columns of exquisite de- licacy. The whole of the exterior is surrounded by three galleries ; the first over the chapel, the second above the internal galleries, and the third ai’ound the dome. These render almost every part of the structure easily accessible. The choir is truly superlj. The modern ornaments NOTRE DAME, 199 of it were commenced by De Cotte, principal archi- tect to the king, in 1669, and finished by his son in 1714. In the centre is a brazen eagle, seven feet high, and three feet from wing to wing. Two pilasters of wood at the entrance of the choir, adorned with grotesque sculptiu-e, support two angels in bronze. The elegant stalls which line the two sides of the choir, are ter- minated by two of superb workmanship, appropriated to the archbishop. The wainscot is covered with nu- merous curious and well-executed bas-reliefs, represent- ing the life of the Holy Virgin. The stalls are surmounted by a cornice of rich de- sign, the upper part of which contains eight fine paint- ings, by the most celebrated masters of the French school. The “ Annunciation of the Virgin,” by Halle, is the first on the right, at the top of the choir. Next to it is the “ Visitation of the Virgin,” the chef-d* oeuvre of Jouvenet, who painted with his left hand after his right had become paralytic. The third is the “ Birth of our Saviour,” by Philippe de Champagne ; and the fourth, the ‘‘Adoration of the Magi,” by Lafosse. On the left, are the “ Presentation of our Saviour in the Temple,” by Louis Boulogne j the “ Flight into Egypt,” by the same artist ; the “ Presentation of the Virgin in the Temple,” by Philippe de Champagne ; and the “ As- sumption of the Virgin,” by Antoine Coypel. The choir was formerly adorned by stone sculptures, representing the history of Genesis. On the outside, the history of the New Testament was described. A few grotesque figures yet remain, and shew the extra- ordinary style in which these performances were exe- cuted. Some steps of Languedoc marble conduct to the sanctuary, the altar of which has been justly admired. It is three feet and eight inches long, three feet high, and stands on eight circular supporters, of white Lan- 200 NOTRE DAME. giiedoc marble. In front are three bas-reliefs. That in the centre by Van-Cleve, represents Jesus Christ in the tomb ; on each side are Angels in the attitudes of grief, by Deseine. The steps of the altar, which are of white marble, sprinkled with golden stars, support six gilt candlesticks, nearly five feet in height. In the middle of a recess is a grating of gilt brass, on which is sculptured the Paschal Lamb. Above this is a gilded cross, more than seven feet high. The pave- ment is a rich mosaic, and the arches above are inlaid with white marble. The bottom of the sanctuary is occupied by a group representing the descent from the cross, in Carrara marble. It is the best work of the elder Coustou, and well merits the closest attention. The devotee will not fail to inquire for the relics which this sanctuary contains. Among other inesti- mable treasures, a veritable portion of om’ Saviour’s crown of thorns, and a piece of the true cross, are shewn. The regalia of Charlemagne, and many gold and silver vases, are likewise exhibited. The]|Chapel of St. Genevieve, on the right, has been lately repaired. The wainscot that now adorns it was taken from the ancient hall of the Chapter of Notre Dame, and was constructed about the beginning of the sixteenth century. It represents the apostles and some of the saints, separated by little pilasters taste- fully ornamented. Under the tower, on the side of the cloister, is a tablet of stone sculptured in the sixteenth century, which describes, in a bold and striking manner, the universal judgment. It is usually pointed out to the attention of the curious. This noble edifice, prior to the Revolution, pos- sessed much rich tapestry, stained-glass windows, tes- selated pavements, magnificent monuments, and the most richly variegated shrines. Too many of these ST. GERMAIN DES PRES. 201 were, during the reign of anarchy, removed or de- stroyed. Every exertion has since been made to re- store or replace them ; and the church of Notre Dame is once more an object of curiosity to the traveller and the antiquary. Adjoining to it is the Archiepiscopal Palace, a heavy building, which forms a strange contrast with the ele- gant structure of the Cathedral. I Ahbaye Royale de St. Germain des Pres, I Abbey Royal of St. Germain in the Fields. I I This church wass built by Childebert, in 558, on the [ ruins of an ancient temple of Isis. Nothing could be more magnificent than the inte- rior decoration of this temple, built in the form of a Roman cross, 200 feet in length, 65 in breadth, and 59 high. It once contained some exquisite specimens of anci- i ent sculptme, and a noble library of more than 100,000 volumes ; but during the Revolution, it was shamefully pillaged and defaced. It is yet worthy of the travel- ler’s attention, from the traces of true antiquity which it afibrds. It contains the remains of most of the an- cient kings. The portal to the west has a majestic appearance ; though, perhaps, it more resembles the entrance to a magnificent castle than a chinch. The principal altars are now re-established. Pope Pius VII. laid the first stone of the altar of the chapel of the Virgin behind the choir. The chapel of St. Marguerite is tastefully decorated, and the tones of one of the finest organs in Paris again resound along the fretted roof. M. Levis is the present cure. 202 SAINT LOUIS. Saint Severin. [Rue de St. Severin.] The only curiosity in this ancient church is its altar, decorated with eight marble columns of the Compo- site order, after the design of Le Brun. The sculp- ture with which they are enriched is the work of the statuary Tuby. In this building, the first operation for the stone was performed on a condemned criminal. M. Baillet, cure. Clia'pelle Beaujon, The Chapel of Beaujon. [Rue du. Faubourg dii Roule, No. 59.] This chapel was built by Girardin, at the expense of the financier, M. Beaujon, who designed it as a chapel of ease to the parish of St. Philippe de Roule, and a place of sepulture for himself and his family. The simple, yet noble, plan of the building, tlie richness of its decorations, the happy distribution of its light, and the good taste which it every where dis- covers, have caused it to be ranked among the best productions of modern French architecture. Saint Louis. [Rue Sainte Croix.] This little church was originally built by the Capu- chins. It is mentioned on account of the peculiar sim- plicity of the architecture. It has but one basement ; and the only ornament of the interior is a cornice of the Doric order. This simplicity, however, being united to the justest proportions, has a very pleasing effect. ST. GERMAIN l’AUXERROIS. 203 Saint Leu, [Rue Silint Denis.] This chapel, built in 1255, is purely Gothic ; but the architect who repaired the sanctuary in 1780, has, with strange want of taste, given it an almost theatrical appearance. A subterranean chapel is shewn to the curious. M. Martinel, cur6 St. Germain UAuxerroh. [Near the Louvre.] This was likewise built by Childebert. The statues of himself and of his queen are yet to be seen at the entrance. The portal is a fine specimen of Gothic architecture, by Perrault and Le Brun. The bell of this church gave the signal for the horrible massacre of St. Bartholomew. Before the Revolution, this church contained a collection of paintings and statues which almost rivalled the noblest museum in France. Most of the French artists lived in or near the Louvre. This was their parish-church ; and a pleasing contention arose among them who should contribute most to its embellishment. Jouvenet, Coypel, Le Brun, Louis Boulogne, Philippe de Champagne, Coysevox, and Warin, were eager to place the most valuable of their works in the choir, and around the altar, of this church. During the sacrilegious period of the Revolution, these treasures were scattered or destroyed. M, Valayer, erne. 204 - ST. ETIENNE DU MONT. St. Etienne du Mont. i [Rue Ste. Genevieve.] | Saint Genevieve, so celebrated in the French calen- ' dar, and whose name is intimately connected with the conversion of the first Parisian monarch, died in 512, and was buried in a chapel near this spot. The sanctuary which contained her remains, was enriched by every succeeding monarch ; and the Royal Abbey of St. Genevieve was founded in honour of the tutelary saint of Paris. The church of St. Etienne du Mont was afterwards ! erected as a chapel of ease for the vassals of the Royal i Abbey. To preserve it from the jurisdiction of the j Archbishop of Paris, it was built without any external I door; and the only access to it was by a covered i passage from the Abbey of St. Genevieve. When it was rebuilt in 1491, by Francis I., it yet retained this whimsical peculiarity; and it was not until 1610, that Queen Marguerite, wife of Henry IV., constructed the present portico. Of the Abbey of St. Genevieve, and its celebrated church, few vestiges remain ; but this appendage to the grandeur of the ancient monastery has defied the ravages of time. Its architecture has been much admired. The front is peculiarly grand. It is composed of four banded Ionic pillars, supporting a triangular pediment; the ornaments of which, though a little confused, remind ( the spectator of the peculiar style of Roman archi- tecture. The interior of the church is remarkable for its boldness and singularity. It is a strange, yet not un- pleasing, mixture of the Greek, the Gothic and the Arabic. ST. LOUIS EN l’iSLE. 205 Most persons will admire the extraordinary height of the arches, sustained by slender pillars, without immediately perceiving the defect of their construction. Indeed, that defect is skilfully hidden; and the extreme meagreness of the colums is concealed by a gallery, which is placed at about three-fourths of their height. The stairs leading to this gallery seem to be magically suspended in the air. The pulpit, sculptured by Lestocard, is much ad- mired. A colossal statue of Samson seems to support the enormous weight. The painted glass window of the chancel should not be overlooked. The marble altar is richly and elegantly decorated. Behind the choir, on a platform supported by four pillars of the Tuscan order, is a new shrine, in the form of a Gothic church, containing the relics of St. Genevieve. In one of the side chapels is the ancient tomb of this saint. Two beautiful paintings of Langiliere are here seen. They express the veneration of the Parisians for their patron saint. In this church were buried the venerable Pascal, the poet Racine, the painter Le Sueur, and the botanist Tournefort; but the place of their sepulture is not distinguished by the slightest monumental inscription. Over the altar is the “ Martyrdom of St. Stephen,” by Le Brun. M. Le Clerc du Bradin, cure. St. Louis cn VIsle. This church is not destitute of elegance ; but it is chiefly remarkable for the singulai* appeai-ance of the tower that supports the clock, and which is visible in most parts of the city. M. Coroller, cure. T 206 ST. LOUIS — ST. PAUL. St. Louis — St. Paul. [Rue St. Antoine.] This cliurcli is in the form of a Roman cross, with a dome in the centre. Its portal is lofty, and com- posed of three rows of columns above each other. Two are Corinthian, undone Composite. A profusion of ornament, employed without regularity of taste, olFends the eye of the connoisseur, and does little credit to the skill of the architect. Father Derrand. Marble, silver, and gold, are employed with bound- less prodigality in the decoration of the grand altar and the chapels. On the right of the sanctuary was the heart of Louis XIII., enclosed in a heart of gold, suppported by two angles of silver, modelled by Sarrazin. On the left was that of Louis XIV., supported likewise by two angels, the workmanship of Coustou. This last monu- ment cost 600,000 francs. Near the place where these stood, was a mausoleum, less rich, but remarkable for the propriety of its design and the delicacy of its execution. It was destined to receive the hearts of the heroes of the house of Conde. Sarrazin modelled the ornaments, and Persan cast the figures. Not far distant were the tombs of the princes of the house of Bouillon. Numerous paintings of the French and Italian schools once enriched this temple, and caused it (like Germain L’Auxerrois) to resemWe a superb museum, constantly thronged by strangers and artists. Few of these have survived the ravages of the Revolution. LA SAINTE CHAPELLE. 207 Si. Merry, , [Rue St. Martin.] ^ A CHAPEL existed here in the sixth century, dedi- cated to St. Peter. It afterwards took the name of St. Merry, who was here interred. The present building was erected in 1 520 . Its architecture is Gothic ; and, although it does not often excite attention by its exterior, its interior is most splendidly ornamented. ^ The choir was decorated with much taste by the ! brothers Slodtz, in the last century. It is covered with I stucco resembling marble, and enriched with much j gilding. At the bottom of the sanctuary is a Glory, j which has a pleasing and even sublime effect. [ In the chapel of the Communion is a noble painting ; of “ The Pilgrims at Emmaus,” by Coypel. The cha- pels in the. transept contain some interesting paintings ; i particularly “ St. Merry,” by Vouet ; “ The Virgin and I Infant Jesus,” and “ St. Charles,” by Carlo Vanloo ; I and “ St. Peter,” by Restout. On the left is a descent which conducts to a subter- ranean chapel. M. Boucher, cure. La Sainte Chapclle, [At the Palace of Justice.] This is one of the most beautiful Gothic edifices in Europe. It is now filled with the archives of the kingdom. An exquisite painting by Germain-Pilen, some superb painted glass, and a few magnificent relics, are shewn here. 208 EGLISE DE LA MADELASNE, St. Gervais. [Near La Place de Greve.] The portal to this church, which is the object that principally deserves the traveller’s attention, was rebuilt by Louis XIIL, in 1616 . Some critics have censured the distribution of minuter parts : but the happy union of the Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders, the immense span of the arches, and the character of boldness, yet severity, which prevails, must produce a pleasing im- pression on the mind. The interior of the building is in harmony with the purpose for which the edifice was erected. The little chapel of the Virgin, apparently suspended from the roof of the church, is an object of much curiosity. M. Frasey, cure. Eglise de la Madelaine, [Rue Royale.] This church, which was to have been named “ The Temple of Glory,” and dedicated to those who died while fighting their country’s battles, was begun before the Revolution, then taken down, and afterwards restored. It is mentioned here on account of its singular form, and bad architecture. It resembles a tower, surmounted by a spherical dome sixty-two feet in diameter. The cupola forms an unpleasing termination to the tower ; and, when viewed from the top, its height gives it more the appearance of a well, than a skilfully proportioned building. ABBAY£ DU VAL DE GRACE. 209 The portico is composed of eight Corinthian columns, surmounted by a pediment. The form of the portico is elegant; but it is much too little for the lofty and heavy construction of the edifice. Some paintings of Charles Lafosse are not unworthy of notice. M. Jerpanion, cure. SL Eustache, [Parish Church of the Third Municipality.] This vast edifice offers a strange mixture of the Arabian and Greek architecture. The columns which support the interior are altogether without proportion. When the traveller compares their lightness with their weight, he trembles lest they should yield to the super- incumbent weight. The front is of modern architecture. It consists of the Ionic and Doric orders above each other, crowned in the centre by a small triangular pediment, with (formerly) two square towers at the extremities. One of these towers is now demolished. This church suffered much from revolutionary anar- chy ; but most of its valuable paintings and sculptures have been restored by the exertions of the cure. The portal that faces La Rue des Prouvaises is part of the ancient church. M. Bossu, cure. Abhaye du Val de Grace, [Suburb of St. James.] This edifice, once appropriated to religious worship, is now converted into an hospital magazine. The T 5 210 STE. MAllGUERITE. peculiar beauty of the structure is, however, carefully preserved. The marble pavement, and the paintings of the dome, by Mignard, are uninjured. These last constitute the noblest work in fresco which France possesses. They contain more than 200 colossal figures, representing the glory of the saints in heaven. Moliere has celebrated this performance of Mignard in a poem written expressly on the Subject. In this church the connoisseur will likewise be gratified by an opportunity of studying the exquisite bas-reliefs of Augier. They consist of six colossal busts of the Holy Virgin, Joseph, Ann, Joachim, Elizabeth, and Zacharias. The decorations of the altar are unusually magnifi- cent. The edifice was destined to contain the hearts of the royal family of France, and particularly those of the house of Orleans, while their bodies rested in the cathedral of St. Denis. A beautiful enclosure in the chapel of the dome formerly contained more than thirty of these precious relics. ^ , ^te. Marguerite, [Rue de St. Bernard.] The only thing worthy of notice in this church is a sepulchral chapel to the left of the choir, the whole of which was painted by Brunetti. On the pavement are thirty tombs, with inscriptions on each, taken from the sacred volume, and descriptive of the shortness of life, and the certainty of death. A medallion at the entrance indicates the tomb of the celebrated Vaucanson. M. Dubois, cure. ST. THOMAS d’aQUIN. 211 St, Laurent, [Rue de Faubourg St. Martin.] This Gothic building formerly belonged to a mo- nastery that was destroyed by the Normans. It was repaired and enlarged in the seventeenth century. The grand altar is the work of Lepautre; and the taste of Blondel is conspicuous in the decorations of the choir, and the chapel of the Virgin. M. Favre, cure. St, 'Nicolas des Champs, [Rue St. Martin.] The external construction of this vast edifice is purely Gothic, while the interior is strangely decorated in the modern style. The grand altar is well designed. The painting over it, representing the “ Assumption of the Virgin,” is by Vouet. M. Bruant, cure. St, Thomas d^Aqiiin, [Rue St. Dominique.] The portal of this church, formed of the Doric and Ionic orders placed over each other, is maigre, and badly proportioned ; but the interior of the building is better worth attention. The ceiling of the choir, representing “ The Transfiguration,” by Lemoine, ex- cites universal admhation. M. Ramond de Lalande, cure. 212 ST. ROCH. St. Franfois Xavier; or^ the Church of the Foreign Missionaries, [Rue de Bac.] The cure of this church is the superior of the semi- nary for the education of persons qualified to spread the knowledge of the Gospel among the Indians. The building contains nothing remarkable but a fine paint- ing of Carlo Vanloo, representipg the Adoration of the Magi. M. Desjardins, cure. La Sorhonne. This chapel is degraded into an hospital. It was once much celebrated for its magnificence, but it is now rapidly becoming a mass of ruins. St. Roch. [Parish Church of the Twelfth Municipality.] This edifice was begun by Mercier, in 1675, and not finished until 1736. The portico is composed of two orders of architecture, the Doric and Corinthian, supporting a triangular pediment, and is remarkable for its lightness and simplicity. In the interior of the church, a richness and light- ness of ornament, almost theatrical, are substituted in the room of that grave and majestic style which should characterize a place of religious worship. Being placed n a part of the city principally inhabited by rich citi- zens, it was gradually filled with sculptures and paint- ings. It suffered much during the frenzy of the Revo- lution, and has not yet recovered its former splendour. ST. ROCH. 213 Above the altars are two beautiful paintings by Vien and Doyen. Behind the choir are three chapels. The first, dedi- cated to the Virgin, is of a circular form, and its cupola ornamented by a magnificent painting in fresco, by Pierre. The Virgin appears to be surrounded by four distinct companies, consisting of the Patriarchs, the Prophets, the Holy Women of the Old Testament; and the Apostles and Martyrs of the New Covenant. The spectator deeply regrets the injuries which this sublime composition has received, the unity, arrange- ment, and execution of which excite his warmest praise. The cupola of the secoud chapel describes the Tri- umphs of Religion, to which it is dedicated. Two small portals conduct to the third chapel, whose solemn style of architecture, whose obscurity, and the sombre tint of the walls, are calculated to impress the mind with religious awe. It contains a fine painting of “ the Crucifixion.” The light falling on it from above, gives it a wonderful effect, and sin- gularly contrasts it with the cavernous darkness of the chapel. This church contains several other chapels. One on the right, covered with black marble spotted with white tears, announces that it was designed to receive the ashes of the dead. The philosopher Maupertuis lies here, with the celebrated Lenostre, to whom the principal gardens in France are indebted for all their beauty. The two statuaries, Augier, likewise repose in this asylum. To each of these a simple monument is erected ; while the stranger is unable to repress his astonishment that not the slightest inscription records the talents of Corneille, who slumbers % the side of the painter Mignard. The steps and pillars of the portal bear the frightful impression of numerous musket p.nd cajinon balls, which 214 * ST. SULPICE. were directed against the citizens of Paris on the fatal 13th of Vendemau’e. M. Mudiiel, cure. St. Sulpice. [Near the Luxembourg.] The majectic portico was the work of Servandoni. Its grand proportions, the boldness of the design, and the sublime effect which it produces, are universally ac- knowledged. It is composed of two orders, the Doric and the Ionic, placed above each other. The Doric columns are forty feet high, and five feet in diameter, with an entablature of ten feet. The Ionic pillars are thirty- eight feet in height, and four feet eight inches in dia- meter, with an entablature of nine feet. A tower elevates itself on each side of the portico, to the height of 210 feet. They were originally of a different style of architecture, and were not supposed to accord well with the other parts of the building. They are indebted to M. Chalgrin for their present appearance. The interior of the building, in which the Corin- thian order reigns, is not less interesting than the ex- terior, The composition of the principal altar between the nave and the choir is grand and sublime. Its form is that of an ancient tomb of beautiful marble. The spacious choir is decorated with the colossal statues of our Saviour, St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. John the Evangelist, by Bouchardon. It is terminated by a magnificent chapel, dedicated to the Virgin. Above the altar of white marble rise some columns of blue marble, of the Composite order, with gilt cha- piters, supporting an entablature crowned by numer- ous figures in bronze. The cupola, inimitably repre- ST. PHILIPPE DU ROULE. 215 senting “ the Assumption,” is by Lemoine: and the ingenious manner in which the light is admitted pro- j duces a magical effect. i The vessels containing the holy water are curiously ! formed of two immense sculls, which the republic of ' Venice presented to Francis 1. They are placed on a rock executed by Pigal. This interesting edifice was sadly despoiled during the Vandal age of the Revolution. Tlie subterranean church is remarkable for its ex- , tent; and gives a tolerable idea of the ancient cata- : combs. M. Depierre, cure. i Notre Dame des Victoires. [Near La Place des Victoires.] To the inattentive observer this edifice will present t nothing remarkable ; but the man of taste will per- ceive, in the general style of its architecture, and of all its ornaments, that noble simplicity which should cha- racterize a temple consecrated to the worship of the Great Supreme. M. Fernback, cure. St, Philippe du Route, [Parish of St. Madelaine.] This church will likewise please from its simplicity, and its resemblance to the edifices of the ancient Christians. The portal is composed of four columns of the Doric order, siu'inounted by a triangular pedi- ment. At the extremity of the peristyles are two chapels dedicated to the Virgin and St. Philip, which were designed to support two towers. 216 STI JACaUES DU'HAUT PAS. The arches of the roof are of wood, but painted in such close imitation of stone, that they cannot possibly be distinguished from it. M. Couguet de Boisset, cure. St, Elizabeth, [Rue du Temple.] This church was built in 1628, for the nuns of the order of St. Francis. The portal is pleasingly formed of Doric and Ionic pilasters. The architecture of the interior is Doric. M. Malbeste, cure. Si, Francois Assise. [Rue du Perche.] This edifice was built in 1623, for a convent of Ca~ puchins, and is mentioned here on account of its great simplicity. M. de Baudre, cure. St. Nicolas du Cliardonnet, [Rue St. Victor.] This otherwise pleasing church presents a strangely unfinished appearance, from the want of a portal. It was richly decorated with the paintings of Lebrun, whose tomb constitutes its principal ornament. M. Bruyarre Philibert, cure. St. Jacques du Haut Pas, [Rue St. Jacques.] This church was built on the ruins of an ancient 7 JSGLISE DES FILLES, &C. 217 chapel, by Ann of Bourbon, Duchess of Longueville, in 1684. Her heart was interred here. The ashes of the celebrated Cassini, and of the virtuous Cochin, the ciu*e of this parish, who sold all his property, and even his library, to found an hospital for his indigent pa- rishioners, repose here. M. Lelegard, cure. Ahhaye Royale de Fort IloyiiL [Rue de la Bourbe.] This beautiful edifice was built by Lepautre, in 1646 ; and exhibited that mingled simplicity and grandeur which its sacred destination required. It is now con- verted into an hospital for foundlings. A colossal statue of St. Vincent de Paul, by Stouf, has been much, admired. Eglise des Filles de la Visitation de Ste, Marie. [Rue St. Antoine.] This little church was built by Francis Mansard. Its appearance is pleasing, and it gave to the nephew of Francis the idea of the magnificent dome of the In- valids. Although the production of an artist so celebrated, it must be acknowledged that neither its plan, nor its elevation, give us an idea of that perfect good taste and delicacy of execution which his other edifices ex- hibit. The cloister, the house, and the gardens of the Visitation, have been demolished or sold. The church alone remains, and is now consecrated to the Protes- tant form of worship. u 218 THE PANTHEON. Le Pantheon, The Pantheon. Formerly St. Genevieve. \^At the end of the Rue St. Jacques.'] The Pantheon was begun in the year 1764. It is in the form of a cross, 339 feet long, and 253 broad. The portal, in imitation of that of the Pantheon at Rome, consists of a noble peristyle of twenty-two Co- rinthian columns. Each column is five feet and a half in diameter, and fifty-eight in height. The flowers of the chapiters are highly finished. These columns form a spacious porch, 112 feet in length, and 36 deep, crowned with a grand bas-relief, sculptured by Coustou. It is ornamented by four colossal statues, producing an imposing and grand effect. The front of the building within the porch unites the masculine air of the Gothic with the beauty of the Grecian architecture. The interior of the temple consists of four naves, decorated with 130 Corinthian columns, supporting an entablature, which serves as a basement to the galleries, skirted with stone ballustrades. Above rises a lofty dome, resembling a circular tem- ple, formed of fifty-two pillars, each fifty-four feet high, supported by a circular basement which rises above an octangular sub-basement. This dome is surmounted by another smaller ; which not being terminated by any figure or ornament, has a rather unpleasing appearance. The whole is surmounted by a terrace, protected by an iron ballustrade. The total height of the building is 282 feet. The bold and light style of the architecture, in which it was originally built, had nearly hazarded the destruc- tion of the whole edifice. The pillars which supported PROTESTANT CHURCHES. 219 the dome began to bend under its enormous weight ; and it was only by sacrificing somewhat of its beauty, and introducing confusion into the style of the whole, that Rondelet was enabled to preserve it from ruin. He placed 12 new columns under the dome; and by the brightness of the gilding, and the beauty of the painting, very skilfully endeavoured to conceal the in- jury he was doing to the coup-d’oeil of the edifice. The connoisseur will, however, perceive a disagreeable con- trast between the original lightness of the naves and the massiveness of the centre of the building. The purpose to which the . pantheon is devoted is worthy of the magnificence of the building. It is de- signed to contain the ashes of those who have deserved well of their country. The inscription in front of the temple is simple and sublime : — AUX GRANDS HOMMES. LA PATRIE RECONNAISSANTE. Dedicated hy a grat^ul Country to its illustrious Men, The vaults under the church are skilfully contrived ; and are neither dark, damp, nor gloomy. They con- sist of galleries lined with cells. In these cells, all nearly of the same size, the bodies are deposited, each in a stone sarcophagus, of exactly the same size and form. An inscription relates merely the name, the dignity, and age, of the deceased. Over the door of each cell is the cipher xp. and the letters a and n. The church still remains in an unfinished state, and the miserable houses which surround it, detract much from its consequence. PROTESTANT CHURCHES. Paris contains four churches dedicated to the Pro- testant worship ; viz. the ancient church of the Oratory, u 2 220 CONVENTS. Rue St Honore. The regularity of the architecture, and the exact proportions of the Corinthian order, which reign throughout the building, have been much admired. Service every Sunday, at tra in the morning and three in the afternoon. The ancient church of the Visitation, Rue St. An- toine. The general appearance of this edifice is agree- able. ’ The dome is sustained by four arches ; between which, Corinthian columns carry a delicate cornice. The ancient chm’ch of the Carmelites, Rue des Bil- lettes. This is a building on a small scale, and alto- gether without taste. M. Boissard, pastor. The Panthemont, Rue de Crenelle. JEWISH SYNAGOGUES. The synagogues of the Jews are in Rue St. Avoie ; No. 47, Rue du Chaume ; and Rue St. 'Andre des Arcs. CONVENTS. Many of the convents will afford matter of curiosity to the stranger ; and it will not be difficult to gain ad- mittance to the chapels of most of them. The convent of the Benea.ntines is in Rue du Re- gard ; and that of the English Benedictines in Rue des Fosses St. Victor. The Carmelites have three houses : No. 2, Rue Maillet; Rue d’Enfer; and Rue de Vaugirard. The painted dome of the chapel of the last of these has been much admired. It represents the transfiguration of the Prophet Elijah, by Bertholet Flarael. In this convent i THE CATACOMBS, 221 the cannibals of the 2d and 5d of September commenced I their horrible massacres. The Nuns of our Lady of Charity are in Rue St. ‘ Jacques. Their convent forms a species of female penitentiary, and is appropriated for the reception of those whom parental wisdom or caprice consigns to a temporary or lasting confinement and punishment. The Dominicans are in Rue d’Angouleme and Rue i Moreau. Their principal employment is the education I of young ladies. The interesting society of the Sisters of Charity, i whose lives are devoted to assuage the pains and heal I the diseases of the most miserable of their fellow-crea- i tures, have their principal convent in Rue du Vieux: i Colombier. i La Tour de St, Jacques-La-Boucherie, ! [In the Market of that name.] i I This is a most elegant and curious relic of the noble i Gothic church which once occupied the site of this I market. It will afford the antiquary a high treat. I • ■ THE CATACOMBS. Ten centuries ago the burial grounds of Paris were without the walls of the city ; but, as the buildings of the metropolis extended in every direction, they were in process of time surrounded by human habitations ; and, at length, were almost in the heart of the town. They were few in number, and confined in space ; the Parisians were, therefore, compelled to adopt a mode of burial, which, in England, would be thought to out- V 3 222 THE CATACOMBS. rage decency and humanity. Vast trenches were open- ed, twenty feet deep, as many in length, and six or eight feet wide. Into these corpse after corpse was flung, until the putrid heap nearly reached the surface of the ground. The earth was then thrown over them, and a similar trench dug close by their side. Long before this loathsome mass could be perfectly decomposed, the ground was again opened, and the air was loaded with offensive and poisonous exhalations. The nuisance continued to increase until the neighbour- hood of the cemeteries proverbially became the abode of every pestilential disease. Government at length in- terfered. All burials were forbidden within the walls, except in a few of the churches j and the mass of cor- ruption was afterwards conveyed from the place where it still continued to infect the air. This enormous mass included the remains of all who had been buried during more than ten centuries. The bones were separated, and carefully cleaned, and piled in some of the immense galleries of the quarries, by which a considerable part of the city is undermined ; and the name of “ the Catacombs” was given to this new receptacle of the dead, in imitation of similar ex- cavations, appropriated to the same purpose, in Rome, Milan, and ancient Thebes. Behind the Barriere d’Enfer on the right is a lane, on the left hand side of which is the descent into these dreary, yet interesting caverns. A narrow staircase of eighty steps, winding down a circular well, leads to a gallery or avenue, hewn out of the solid rock, and varying from three to four feet in width, and from six to seven in height. The stone is clean, white, and dry, and thickly studded with shells, and various marine antediluvian remains. Numerous passages branch off on either side, some of which are said to extend more than three miles, under the plain of Montrouge, through the whole of the suburbs of St. Jacques and St. THE CATACOMBS. 22S Germain, and even a considerable way on the north of the river. Many of these avenues were prudently stopped when they became the resort of banditti. Occasionally the passage widens into spacious, but low roofed halls ; sometimes supported by artificial columns, and often by masses of the native rock. From these halls many avenues branch off in various directions. The stranger is accompanied by a guide, who con- ducts him in safety through this immense la^rinth, and who is himself directed by a black line traced on the ceiling through the whole of the course which he is to pursue. The guides generally commence their task about twelve o’clock. Every stranger, on entering the Catacombs, will find it necessary to have a wax taper in his hand which may be purchased on the spot, and never to lose sight of the guide. After the traveller has proceeded a quarter of a mile, he should inquire for the gallery of Port-Mahon. A soldier, who had accompanied Marshal Richelieu in the expedition against Minorca, was, on his return, compelled by ne- cessity to work in these quarries. During the hours of refreshment, he employed himself in modelling in re- lief a plan of Port-Mahon. The execution is, as might be expected, sufficiently rude, but the accuracy of the representation is acknowledged by every competent judge, and the whole is highly creditable to the inge- nuity, the memory, and the patience of the soldier, who, ignorant of architecture, completely without as- sistance, and almost without instruments, nearly accom- plished the singular and arduous undertaking. It is painful to add that he was crushed by a mass of rocks, and perished the victim of his ingenious enterprise. At a little distance is another curiosity, which pro- bably will not be shewn, unless the traveller inquires for it. Some enormous fragments of stone are so nicely balanced on a base, hardly exceeding a point, that they THE CATACOMBS. rock with every blast of wind, and threaten to over- whelm the curious observer; yet in this equilibrium they have hung for more than two centuries, and it wo^d probably require a gigantic force to remove them from their position. After proceeding more than half a mile, the stranger arrives at another low-roofed hall, in which is a black door, supported by two Tuscan pilasters, with this inscription : — Has ultra metas requieseunt^ beatam spem expectantes. (Beyond these bounds rest the dead, awaiting the joyful hope of immortality.) This is the entrance to the Catacombs. It admits to another long avenue, the walls of which are lined with bones from the floor to the roof. The large bones of the arms, legs, and thighs, are in front, closely and neatly piled together, and their uniformity relieved by three rows of sculls, at equal distances. Behind these are thrown the smaller bones. This avenue conducts to several apartments resem- bling chapels, the walls of which are lined with bones, variously and often tastefully arranged ; and, in the cen- tre of the chapel, or in niches in the walls, are vases and altars, some of which are formed entirely of human bones, and others are ingeniously ornamented with sculls of diflerent sizes. One or two of these altars are of an antique form, and composed of the solid rock. They stood here before these Caverns were appropriated to their present destination. One of them has cer- tainly occupied its present situation from time imme- morial, and has given rise to the not improbable Con- jecture that these secret and deep recesses were used as places of worship, either by the Gauls or by the early THE CATACOMBS. 225 Christians, during the persecution which followed the first preaching of the Gospel in these parts. These chapels contain numerous inscriptions ; some of them simply indicating the cemetery whence each mouldering pile of bones was removed; others too strongly reminding the reader of the atheistical era of the Revolution ; and a very few displaying considera- ble feeling and good taste. One chapel is dedicated to those who perished on the horrible 2d and 5d September. The altar bears this simple, yet affecting, inscription : — D. M. II. et III. Sepmbr. ^ 1792. (“ To the memory of the victims of the 2d and 3d of September, 1792.”)* The bones are concealed behind a black wall. An inscription, in another part of the Catacombs, is altogether as revolting : Ici sont inhumes LXXXVII. metres cubes D’ossemens, recueillis Dans le cemetrie des Innocens, Du 19 Janvier au 19 Mars, 1811. (“ Here are deposited 87 cubic metres of bones, col- lected from the cemetery of the Innocents, between the 19th January and the 19th March, 1811.”) That man must have been utterly destitute of taste and feeling, who suggested the record of this disgusting admeasurement of the perishing remains of the human frame. The calculations of different visiters and authors vary as to the number of bones collected in this vast char- nel-house. It is certain that there are more than three 226 THE CATACOMBS. millions of human sculls ; some writers have asserted, that the Catacombs contain six millions. A faint mouldering smell pervades these gloomy ca- verns, but not to any unpleasant or deleterious degree. Before he quits the Catacombs, two museums are shewn to the stranger. The first is a collection of all the fossil remains, mineral productions, spars, &c., which these quarries afford. Some of the specimens are curi- ous and beautiful. The other, which is principally in- teresting to the medical traveller, are specimens of the various diseases of the bones, selected from this im- mense repository, and scientifically arranged. Having quitted the Catacombs by a portal, bearing this beautiful and appropriate quotation, — Felix qui potuit rerum cognoscere causas, Atque metus omnes, et irrevocabile fatum Subjecit pedibus, strepituraqiie Acherontis avari ! the traveller again follows a black line traced on the roof, which conducts him to another staircase ; ascend- ing this, he finds himself on the east of the road to Orleans, which he had crossed under ground, and more than half a mile from the place at which he descended. Admission may be obtained to the Catacombs every day (except Sunday) by exhibiting the passport, but this form is very seldom observed. If a large party descend at the same time, only half a franc is demanded from each visiter. A work of peculiar interest, containing the history of this extraordinary place from the earliest times is published by Messrs. Bossange and Masson, in Paris. 227 CEMETERIES. The practice of interment in the churches and churchyards of Paris prevailed till 1773, when the par- liament, becoming alarmed at the evils caused by the exhalations from these receptacles of the dead, ordered the cemetery of the Innocents to be shut up ; and this was in a few years followed by the closing of all the burying-grounds in the interior of Paris. The ceme- teries are now in the vicinity, and the principal is situated at i Mont Louzs, On the grounds of the house formerly belonging to PERE LA CHAISE. The entrance to it is from the exterior Boulevard of the Barriere d’Aulnaj^, on a high ground to the N. E. of the city. Pere la Chaise received this ground from Louis XIV., to whom he was confessor for thirty years. He was a persecutor of the Protestants, and advised the revocation of the edict of Nantes. This cemetery is about eighty acres in extent, and is adorned by nume- rous trees. The remains of ancient edifices, and the gloomy foliage of its cypress-trees shading tombs of every form, correspond with the sacred use for which it is employed. It contains the remains of men who delighted the world by their writings, instructed it by their wisdom, and embellished it by their genius. The poet Chenier’s tomb has this simple inscrip- tion ; — Marie Joseph Chenier, N6 a Constantinople en 1764, Moi t a Paris en 1811. 228 CEMETERIES. On the left of this lies the Virgil of France, Jacques Delille. His tomb is surrounded by a small garden, and enclosed by an iron railing, but without any in- scription. Near that lies Fourcroy, with his bust in a niche, under which is simply inscribed his name. Not far from the latter are the tombs of Labedoyere and Ney, famous for their bravery and their imfortu- tunate fate. Here likewise repose the ashes of Madame Cottin and Mademoiselle Clairon, together with many others, whose names will live when their monuments, like their mortal remains, are mouldered away. The monument of Abelard and Eloise, which was transported from the Abbey of Paraclete, and placed in the internal court of the Petits Augustins, has now been removed hither. This tomb actually contains the ashes of the two lovers. Abelard died at the Priory of St. Marcel de Chalons sur Saone, on the 21st of April, 1142 , and was buried there. In the month of November following, Pierre de Cluni caused his body to be clandestinely removed, and sent to Heloise, at the Paraclete. She placed the coffin of her lover in a chapel which he had constructed there. Heloise expired on Sunday the 1 7th of May, 1 1 63 , and her body was deposited in the coffin of her hus- band, agreeably to her own directions. In 1497 , this coffin was removed from the chapel, and transferred into the great church of the monastery j but the bones of the two bodies were separated, and two tombs were erected, one on each side of the choir. In 1650 , Marie de la Rochefoucauld directed them to be placed in the part called the Chapel of the Trinity; and, in 1766 , Madame Roye de la Rochefoucauld projected a new monument in honour of the two lovers, but it was not erected till after her death, in 1779 . This monument was composed of the group of the Trinity, which had CEMETERIES. 229 been sculptured by order of Abelard, and of a base on which was inscribed the following epitaph, said to have been written by Marmontel : — * Hie Sub eodem niarmore jacent Hujiis Monasterii Conditor Petrus Abeiardus Et abbalissa prima Heloisa. Glim studiis, ingenio, amore, infaustis uuptiis Et poenitentia, Nunc aetern^, quod speranius, felicitate Conjuncti. Petrus obiit XX. prima A prills, anno 1142. Heloisa XVII. Mali, 1163. Curis Carolae de Roucy Paraclete abbatissa. 1779. St.-Foix, in his “ Essais Historiques sur Paris,” says, that Charles IX. had formed the design of converting the Bois-de-Boulogne into a burying-place for great men. The idea was that of a great man ; but that un- fortunate monarch, like many others, followed bad counsels, and turned his abilities to a wrong purpose. The cemetery of Pere la Chaise, on a small scale, and of recent date, shews what that idea would have produced had it been put in execution. Madame Raucourt, the celebrated actress, Lenoir Dufresne, and Volney, the deistical writer, were bmded here. Though it is but thirteen years that this has been a cemetery, it is now the favourite and most fashionable one in Paris ; for in Paris every thing has its fashion, and the Parisians have displayed great taste in the arrangement and construction of the tombs, and great affection and feeling in the epitaphs that are engraven upon them. X CEMETERIES. ISO Cwietiere Montmartre, or Field of Repose* This is also to the north of Parisj and was the first opened after the new regulations in 1773. There are in this cemetery a number of tombs, with inscriptions that depict in elegant language, the grief of the re- latives left behind, but there are none erected to any person of great note. There are two other cemeteries, that of Vaugirard and St. Catherine^ but in extent, situation, and other circum- stances, they are less interesting than that of Pere la Chaise. General Pichegni was interred in the cemetery of St. Catherine, where there is a plain tomb erected to him by the affectionate piety of his daughter. In Vaugirard, near to Mademoiselle Clairon, is interred Jean Fran 9 ois de la Harpe, her friend. Here also are the monuments of Leroy and Lavalette. On Sundays, in fine weather, the cemeteries are much frequented ; and on the second of November, the day of la Fete des Morts^ there is a sort of holy, melancholy and sentimental pilgrimage, which is of the most impressive description. La Morgue, This establishment is situated on the Quai du Mar- che Neuf, and is destined to receive the dead bodies of such individuals as have fallen victims to accidents and murders, or been induced by despair to put an end to their own lives ; they are publicly exposed, that they may be recognised by their relatives or friends. 231 SQUARES. \There are more than seventy Squares in Paris. We shall mention those which^ by their extent^ or regularity , or beauty, deserve a place in the “ New Picture of Paris.”] Place Royaler [Rue St. Antoine.] This square was begun in 1604, by order of Henry IV., and completed in 1615. It is a perfect square of 432 feet, and surrounded by 39 uniform pavillions of three stories, with arches on the ground floor, forming a covered gallery, which runs round the square. In the centre was placed the statue of Louis XIII. ; but, in 1792, it was hurled from its pedestal, and a fomitain substituted in its place. The height of the surrounding buildings, their severe style of architecture, their arcades, the sombre tint which they have assumed, the apparent want of outlet, and the few persons who are seen to traverse it, give to this square much of the melancholy aspect of a cloister. The Palace des Tournelles once stood here. At a masquerade given in this place, Charles VI., in 1393, appeared as a savage. The Duke of Orleans holding a flambeau too close to him, his dress caught fire j and, had it not been for the presence of mind and prompt assistance of the Duchess of Berry, the monai-ch would have perished. Four of the lords who attended hun were burnt to death. X 2 232 SQUARES. In the park attached to this palace, Henry II. held a tournament in honour of the marriage of Elizabeth, his daughter, with Philip II. of Spain. Contending ' with the Comte de Montgomery, the lance of the il comte broke against the helmet of the king, wounded him in the eye, and he died eleven days after, in 1559. Catherine de Medicis, his wife, quitted the palace, and caused it to be destroyed. Place Des Victoires. [Near the Palace Royal.] The Marshal la Feuillade, loaded with benefits by Louis XIV., wished to leave to posterity some public testimony of his gratitude. For this purpose he built this “Place” of a semicircular form; and in the cen- tre he placed a colossal statue of Louis XIV., with Victory standing on a globe behind him, and placing a crown on his head. Hence the name of the place, j This statue was destroyed in 1792, and a colossal figure of General Dessaix erected in its stead, which in its turn has likewise disappeared. The houses are noble and uniform, and adorned with Ionic pilasters. The Place des Victoires is, however, ' too narrov/ ; and the avenues to it are sometimes dan- | gerous, from the number of carriages. i 1 i Place Ve7idome, [Between Rue St. Honor6 and Rue des-Petits-Champs,] , The Marquis de Louvois, in the reign of Louis XIV., wishing to form a communication between La Rue St. , SQUARES. 233 Honore and La Rue des-Petits-Champs, conceived the project of building a square in this place. The present square is 444 feet long, and 420 broad. The buildings which enclose it on three sides are uniform. They are decorated with Corinthian pillars ; and on the ground floor is one continued covered gal- lery, pierced with arcades. In the middle was an eques- trian statue of Louis XIV., which gave way to a co- lumn 150 feet high, formed on the model of that of Trajan at Rome. It is entirely covered with brass, furnished by the artillery taken from the Austrians by Buonaparte. The pedestal is filled with bas-reliefs, composed of trophies of arms of every kind, and at each angle is an eagle grasping a crown of laurel. At the foot of the column commences another set of bas-reliefs, which trace in chronological order the principal events of the campaign of 1805, from the breaking up of the camp of Boulogne, to the conclusion of peace after the battle of Austerlitz. These bas-reliefs, which ascend in a spiral direction, are contained in 276 plates, about three feet wide and four in height, which are joined together in an irregular manner, according to the disposition of the figures. A spiral line separates each row, and bears the name of the action which each division re- presents. On the summit of the column, as on that of Trajan, is a gallery, the ascent to which is by a spii-al staircase in the centre of the pillar. Strangers are not permit- ted to ascend to the gallery in consequence of an acci- dent, which occurred there some time ago. It com- mands a fine view of Paris. Above the gallery is a small dome, on which was placed the statue of Napoleon. This, however, has disappeared, and the white flag floats in its stead. 234 SQUARES. Place de Louis XV, Louis XV.’s Square. [Formerly Place de la Concorde. Place of Concord.] This magnificent place separates the Thuilleries ! from the Elysian Fields. It is of an octagonal form, surrounded by a fosse, guarded by a ballustrade of stone, which is terminated by little payillions in the form of pedestals destined to receive groups of figures. The centre of the place de Louis XV. exhibits one of the noblest views in Paris. In front is the palace of the Thuilleries, seen through the grand avenue. Be- hind is the triunipfiial arch and Barriere de Neuilly, seen likewise through the perspective of a long avenue. On one side the Rue Royale terminates with the new Church of the Madelaine ; and on the other side, the eye, glancing over the new bridge de Louis Seize, rests on the noble colonnade that forms the fa 9 ade of the palace of the Representatives. An equestrian statue of Louis XV. occupied the cen- tre of the square. On the 30th of May, 1770, the marriage of Louis XVI., then Dauphin, was celebrated here, but the im- ! providence of the police converted the day of rejoicing ] into one of sadness and desolation. Many hundreds were crushed to death ; sad presage of the horrible scenes which were afterwards witnessed in this place ! On the 12th July, 1789, an old man was wounded here, and on the morrow the revolutionary volcano burst forth. In September, 1792, the statue of Louis XV. was overthrown, and the figm’e of Liberty erected in its stead. At the foot of this sanguinary altar the blood of Louis XVI. was shed ; and, in the space of two years, many thousands of his subjects followed him to the same scaffold. SQUARES. 235 The name of Concorde was afterwards given to this square, to endeavour to efface the memory of the crimes by which it had been polluted. Its original title is now restored. The space in the centre is at present unoccupied by any statue, or public monument. Place de Greve, [Near the Bridge Notre Dame.] This square was the appointed scene of public exe- cutions. The ravages of the murderous guillotine will long render it a place of interest. Place Dauphine, [Near the Pont Neuf.] This “ Place” was built by Henry IV. in honour of the birth of Louis XIII. It is of a triangular form. The houses that surround it are of an uniform archi- tecture'; and their great height gives to the place a gloomy and melancholy air. The friends of General Dessaix have erected a monument to him in the centre. It is as simple and modest as the hero whom it com- memorates. Place du Chatelet. [At the foot of the Pont an Change.] Its form is quadrilateral ; and, in the centre, a co- lumn of the Egyptian style rises from the middle of a 236 SQUAfiES. large basin, with a gilded statue of Victory on its sum- ' mit. It is supposed to be the chef-d’oeuvre of Brizot. At the foot are four statues, representing Vigilance, , Law, Fortitude, and Prudence. They are admirably j proportioned, but the uniformity of their appearance renders it difficult to distinguish the attribute which each is intended to personify. Place Beaiiveau. [Rue St. Honor4.] ' This “ Place,” in the form of a horse-shoe, commands | a charming view of the avenue of Marigny. 1 Place la Bastille, [Faubourg St. Antoine.] This square is not yet finished, but its situation will render it as pleasant as any in Paris. On this spot stood the Bastille, which was destroyed in 1789. 23 " FOUNTAINS. \Within the confines of Paris are sixty Fountains, for the use of the Public. The following well deserve inspection. Notwithstanding this immense number of Fountains, water for domestic purposes is dear in Paris, for a single pail usually costs one sow.] Fontaine de la Place St. Michel. [Rue La Harpe.] Ballet erected this fountain in 1684. It consists of one vast niche, ornamented by two Doric columns, supporting an entablature. The construction of the whole is on much too large a scale for the insignifi- cant stream which issues from it without any pic- turesque effect. Fontaine de St. Suljpice. [In front of the Church of the same name.] This pleasing structure is lost in the immensity of the area in which it is situated. It is a little massive square, with an entablature on each side, ornamented by bas-reliefs in marble, representing Peace, Agricul- ture, Commerce, and the Arts. On two of the sides are sculptures in white marble, in the form of the up- per part of a vase, whence the water falls into semi- cii’cular cisterns of marble, and thence into a circular basin. 238 FOUNTAINS. Fontaine de la Mue de Vaugirard. This fountain is composed of two pilasters, sur- mounted by a pediment. A bas-relief represents Leda on the banks of the Eurotas, and Jupiter under the form of a swan. The artist, who had only a little stream of water at his disposal, has very tastefully made it issue from the beak of an elegant bird. Fontaine de la Rue de VFchelle. This little monument, in the form of an ancient obelisk, discovers much good taste in the disposition, and elegance in the execution. Fontaine de Grenelle^. [Rue de Greuelle.] This fountain was built by Bouchardon, in 1759. It is of a semicircular form, ninety feet in length and thirty-six in height, adorned with pilasters and niches, in which are the statues of the four Seasons, with bas- reliefs applicable to each underneath. The projection in the centre is composed of four Ionic columns, crowned with a pediment. A figure, representing the city of Paris, sits on a pedestal in the centre ; on each side of which, and a little lower, are a river-god and a nymph, personifying the Seine and the Marne. The water issues from two heads, placed at equal distances from the middle. 7'he four Seasons ornament the niches, distinguished FOUNTAINS. 239 by their peculiar attributes, and particularly by bas- reliefs placed underneath. The architecture and decorations of this fountain have been much admired, especially when contrasted with the numerous productions of bad taste by which the age of Louis XV. was disgraced. It has, how- ever, been justly observed, that this building has much more the appearance of a human habitation than a fountain ; and that there should be some more con- spicuous display of jets or torrents of water, to apprize the spectator that it is no monument of useless deco- ration, but an edifice consecrated to public utility. Fontaine des Innocens, In the Market of the Innocents. This exquisite specimen of architecture does ho- nour to the French school. At the base of each of the four sides is a square projecting stone, on which is placed a vast leaden basin of an antique form, supported by lions* feet. Above, at the corners, are four lions of lead, from which jets of water are directed into the basins ; and yet higher in the middle of an arch, is another basin, elevated on a pedestal, from the centre of which springs a jet d’eau, and from the side are several little streams. Each side presents a portico, composed of four fluted Composite pillars, surmounted by a pediment. Between the pilasters are figures of Naiads ; and above and below are bas-reliefs, representing the different divinities of the water. The whole is crowned by a spherical roof, covered with plates of copper. The Naiads, the Water-gods, and the Tritons, in bas-relief, ai'e remarkable for the gracefulness of their attitudes, the beauty of their forms, their finished 8 240 FOUNTAINS. execution, and the true antique air of their drapery. Little tablets of black marble bear this inscription : — FONTIUM NYMPHIS. Fontaine du Chatelet, [In the square of that name.] This consists of a column in the Egyptian style, supporting a globe, on which is a statue of bronze, re- presenting Victory. At the base are the statues of Vigilance, Law, Strength, and Prudence. They are celebrated for their gracefulness and fine proportion. The base of the column is composed of a single stone in the centre of the basin. Fontaine de VFcole de Medecine, Fountain of the School of Medicine. The form of this fountain is remarkable. It consists of a kind of grotto, formed by four Doric pillars, from the roof of which the water descends like rain, and is received in a semicirculai’ basin at the base. Fontaine de la Place de V Hospice Militaire du Gros~Caillou, Fountain of the Military Hospital of Gros- ^ Caillou. The decorations of this fountain pleasingly accord FOUNTAINS. 241 with its situation. Eight pilasters, with a Doric en- tablature, form a square. The principal front is adorned by two figures. Hygeia offers the refreshing draught to a soldier, fatigued by the combat. The figure of the soldier is much admired. Between the pilasters are vases entwined by the -Esculapian Serpent. Fontaine de la Croix de Trahoir, [Kue St. Honor6.] A BASE of a simple form supports two stones with incrusted pilasters, and a Doric pediment, surmounted by a ballustrade. Towards Rue St. Honore is the figure of a Naiad. Fontaine St, Eustache, [In the market of that name.] In a niche of a rustic form, surrounded by icicles and incrustations, is placed a vase, whence descends a sheet of water. It is first received in a shell, and thence escapes into a semicircular cistern. Above the shell is placed the head of a Tantalus, crowned with flowers, with his mouth open, and his eyes eagerly fixed on the descending water, which he is utterly unable to reach. Fontaine de la Rue Censier. A Satyr, surrounded by all the attributes of Bac- chus, offers the water with an air of derision. Y 242 FOUNTAINS. Fontaine de la line des Vieilles Andriettes, The pediment, surmounted by an attic, is adorned with a Naiad, the production of Mignot. The figure is deservedly admired. Fontaine d^ Alexandre. [Rue St. Victor;] This little structure, of an ancient form, pleases from its extreme simplicity. Fontaine de la Place de VEcole. A Pedestal, of a pleasing form, supports a beau- tiful vase. Fontaine de Popincourt. I || This quarter of the city is industrious, but very i| poor. The ornaments of the fountain are appropri- j! ately chosen. Charity is leading one little child, hid- i ing another in the folds of her robe, and offering the I nutritious draught to two others. j Fontaine de V Esplanade du Boulevard de ! Bondi. j The plan of this immense fountain is simple, and the effect is striking. It is composed of three circular j: and concentric basins. Four lions pour a stream of water into the uppermost, and thence it pleasingly flows from basin to basin. FOUNTAINS. 2V3 Fontame Dessaix» [Place Dauphine.] Fame is placing a crown of laurel on the head of Dessaix. The figures are finely proportioned ; and the whole monument, of the simplest form, is well executed. Fontaine de la Place Foyale, The only thing remarkable in this fountain is, that the water, in issuing from the jets, forms a beautiful fleur-de-lis. The effect is pleasing, and the imitation perfect. Fontaine de la Rue de Sevres. A COLOSSAL figure, in Egyptian drapery, pours water from two urns. Fontaine de V Elephant. Fountain of the Elephant. Boulevard du Temple. In the canal, near the spot on which the Bastille once stood, is erected an arch, on which was to have been placed an immense elephant of bronze, 72 feet high, with a tower on its back, out of whose trunk the water was to have flowed. The model is complete, and is exhibited near the spot under an immense shed. The stupendous dimen- sions of the animal may be imagined, when it is men- tioned that the staircase to the tower is contained in one of the legs. This undertaking was commenced by order of Buonaparte, but it is probable that the idea will now be relinquished. 244 . FOUNTAINS. Fontaine de St. Martin. The new fountain on the Boulevard St. Martin is the noblest ornament of the kind in Paris, and de- rives a considerable degree of beauty from its magni- tude, its form, its materials, and its decorations. The form is circular, the ornaments are lions, the materials are granite and bronze, and the quantity of water is abundant. The trees which line the Boulevard are a very pleasing accompaniment. 245 BRIDGES. The bridges at Paris, owing to the elevation of the quays above the river, have very little ascent, and are therefore very convenient; they are, however, with the exception of the Pont-Neuf, far inferior to the bridges of Rome or Florence, and in magnitude and grandeur they sink into insignificance when compared with the stupendous masses of Waterloo, Blackfriars, or Westminster. Pont-Neuf. The New Bridge. This bridge extends across the two arms of the Seine towards the point of the Island of the Palace, and forms a communication between that Island and the street Dauphine and La Monnaie on either side^. This bridge, the most ancient in Paris, was begun during the reign of Henry III. and completed by Henry IV. It is 996 feet in length, and 90 in breadth. An obelisk 1 80 feet high stands on the centre, in the place once occupied by the statue of Henry IV. This bridge is incessantly crowded with passengers, and exhibits a novel and interesting scene. It is the favourite resort of itinerant fruiterers and pedlars of every description, who line each side of it, and force the attention of the passenger by the most exaggerated and deafening history of the excellence of their wares. The dealer in books is posted next to the vender of hot sausages or fried plaice. Beside him is the polisher of shoes, while his neighbour offers the most delicate cakes and preserves. Beyond him is a print-merchant, with engravings of every price, and suited to every Y 5 246 LE PONT AUX DOUBLES. taste. He is elbowed by a ballad-singer or a hawker of news. No sooner has the traveller escaped from his harsh and discordant note, than he is annoyed by the i importunity of some canine tonsor, who, for a small ] gratuity, will clip his poodle, or his barbette, to the I very height of the fashion. The professors of this last art are numerous in Paris, and some of them enjoy as much reputation, and reap as much emolument, as the scientific and justly-celebrated professor of canine and animal medicine in the western part of the English me- tropolis. Pont Royal. The Royal Bridge. Is situated opposite the Thuilleries, and was erected by Louis XIV., to replace that of wood, which the breaking up of the ice in 1684 had carried away. It is composed of five arches. The architecture is masculine and correct. The view from this bridge is truly imposing. The palace and garden of the Thuilleries are seen to great advantage. Pont Grammont. This forms a communication between the quay of the Celestins and the island of the Louvier. It was constructed in the close of the last century, at the expense of the city, and is the only wooden bridge in Paris. Pont aux Doubles. This bridge leads from Rue de la Bucherie to Parvis LE PONT AU CHANGE. 247 Notre Dame. The fare for passing it was once a doii- hie (a coin no longer in circulation ;) whence it derives its name. 'Pont Louis XVI. Bridge of Louis XVI. [Formerly Po7it de la Concorde. Bridge of Concord.] Is opposite to what was denominated Le Cornell du Corps Legislatif (Council of the Legislative Body,) and communicates from the square ©f Louis XV. to the Quai d’Orsai. This bridge was completed in 1791. All appear- ance of strength and stability is sacrificed to a false elegance and affected lightness of structure, little suited to this kind of building. Pont au Change. Bridge of the Change. Is close to the Palace of Justice, between La Place du Chatelet and Rue de la Barillerie, and was formerly designated he Grand Ponty et le Pont Oiseaux (the Great Bridge, and the Bridge of Birds.) Its antiquity is as great as Le Petit Pont, and it assumed its present name when Louis the Young first established the Exchange. It has been often swept away by inundations and by ice. It was destroyed by fire in 1621 and 1639, recon- structed in stone in 1647, and repaired in 1788, at which period it was divested of the houses which had hitherto encumbered it. Its arcliitecture is solid, and it is unusually wide. 248 LE PETIT PONT. Pont St, Michel, Bridge of St Michael. This also stands near the Palace of' Justice, and communicates from Rue de la Barillerie to La Place du Pont St. Michel. It was built of stone under Charles VI., and rebuilt in 1618 ; when it was made sixty feet longer, and twenty wider. Its architecture is bold and solid. It was repaired by Napoleon. Pont Notre Dame, Bridge of our Lad3% Is situated at the extremity of the Quay de la Me- gisserie, called in the fourteenth century, Pont de la Planche Milray^ and leads from Rue Planche Milray to the city. It was rebuilt on the plan of a cordelier, named Jocande, under the reign of Charles XII., in 1499. Sixty-one brick houses, which it formerly bore, were taken down in 1786. In the middle is a pump, which supplies most of the fountains of Paris. Petit Pont, Little Bridge. This bridge forms a communication between Rue St. Jacques and the city. The time of its foundation is uncertain. It existed in the time of the Gauls ; and when Lutetia was rebuilt by the Romans, a fortress was erected at its extremity. It was eight times carried away by floods; and in 1718 it was destroyed by fire in four hours, together with ail the houses upon it. The conflagration originated from two boats laden with hay, which had anchored under one of its arches. In j 1 7 1 9 it was rebuilt, unencumbered by houses. j Lj-: i‘ONT DU JAaniN dej> plantks. Pont Marie. Mary Bridge. [N^ar the Quai des Ormes. Elm-Quay.] This structure was so named after the builder, who erected it in the reign of Henry IV. It was partly destroyed in 1658, but afterwards repaired, and quite divested of houses, in 1719. Pont de la Tournelle. Tournelle Bridge. Stands on the quay bearing that name, and was so called from the castle which adjoined the gate of St. Bernard. The character of its architecture is very grand. It communicates from the port of St. Bernard to the island of St. Louis. It is the third bridge that has been erected on this spot. A wooden bridge, which existed in 1369, gradually decayed. A second wooden bridge was carried away by the ice. The city of Paris caused this of stone to be built in 1656. Pont du Jardin des Plantes.^ or Pont dH Austerlilz. Forms a communication between the Boulevard of Bourdon and the Garden of Plants. It was completed in 1807. The piles are of stone, and the arches of cast iron. It has an air of great solidity and strength. A toll is exacted from all passengers. There is an ex- tensive view to the east over the country bordering on the Seine ; and to the west over the port of St. Ber- nard, and the beautiful quays of the island of St. Louis. The name of this bridge was altered on the arrival of 250 LE PONT DES ARTS. the allied troops in Paris. The Austrians blew up part of the bridge before the authorities in Paris consentedc] to the alteration. Pont de V Ecole Militaire. [Opposite to the Champ de Mars.] ' This bridge was begun by M. Dillon, in 1806, anddj has not yet received its last embellishments. It has ; been open to foot-passengers since 1812. Pont de la Cite. The City Bridge. ' It unites the quay of Catinat to the island of St. I Louis, and was built in 1803. It is composed of strange and unscientific mixture of stone, wood, andu iron. It has already become so insecure, that carriages are not permitted to pass over it. Foot-passengers pay a sons every time they cross it. Pont des Arts. [Opposite the Palace of the Fine Arts.] This bridge, extending from the Louvre to the Mint, was built by Demoutier in 1804. The arches are composed of cast iron. It has nine arches, each of which is supported by three girders, and it is per- fectly horizontal. It is open only to foot-passengers, 'who pay one sous each. It was formerly ornamented with flowers, and was the fashionable promenade of | the Parisians, but it is now almost deserted. J QUAIS. 251 It affords a pleasing view of the Seine from the Pont- Neuf in the Pont-Royal. Pont des Inmlides^ or Pont Jena, This bridge, opposite the Champ de Mars, was be- gun in 1806 , and has not long been finished. It con- sists of five arches of equal size, and happily combines elegance with strength. On the second entrance of the Allies into Paris, Blu- cher, offended at the name given to the bridge, ordered it to be blown up. It was, however, preserved by the prompt interference of the Allied Sovereigns. Quais. Quays. There are in Paris forty-two quays, extending from east to west about five English miles, on both sides of the river, and which are at different parts distinguished by different names, though in reality they form only two immensely long quays. The river Seine, which is a running river, and not a tide river, has no commerce but what is carried on by boats. The quays are merely stone embankments, without cranes for raising goods, or warehouses for receiving them, which are essential parts of what is properly termed a quay. There are stone stairs at different places, and the quays, as they are termed, are merely streets with houses on one side and the river on the other. ' They could not have been better planned than they are ; and no river like the Thames, where there is rr”^h trade, can have its borders laid out in a manner 252 QUAIS, that will please the eye so well. The islands in the river are bordered with stone in the same way; and the whole extent, taking the borders of the river and of the islands, amounts to about 12,000 toises, or nearly fifteen English miles. The whole is well exe- cuted in stone, with a parapet ; and the sewers fall into the river through arches under those quays. These stone embankments were first begun in 1512 , in the reign of Philip-le-Bel. The height of the stone- work is about fifteen feet, in some places built on piles, and in others on a solid foundation of earth. Various sorts of goods are landed at different parts of the river, and these are termed ports, though there is no apparent mark of any thing like a port. During the Revolution, the quays were extended at both ends very considerably. When it is considered that the waters of the river rise in winter about ten or twelve feet higher than in summer, it will be seen that an absolute necessity exists for having stone embankments, and the whole is so well executed, that the borders of the river, or quays, are the pleasantest and best walks in Paris, with the exception of the Boulevards and public gardens. 253 Bahts Fuhlics* Public Baths. There is no species of accommodation connected with personal cleanliness which may not be procured at Paris at a very moderate price. The frequent use of a warm bath is considered by the French as essential to comfort and health. There are baths in almost every part of the town. They con- sist of ranges of small rooms, each neatly fitted up with a bath, towels, gowns, a fire, and conveniences of every kind. In each bath are two pipes, one for cold, and the other for hot water. Every person makes his bath 'as he pleases ; and if he choose to breakfast, read the papers, or make a morning’s lounge in the bath-room, every thing which he can wish is furnished from the house. The charge for the mere use of the bath, the room, and the necessary articles for bathing, is generally 1 franc and 50 cents. On different parts of the Seine are large and elegant house-boats, fitted up as baths in a very complete man- ner. Each boat, in addition to the baths, contains a kitchen and dining-room. The edge of the boat resem- bles a little garden, with all sorts of plants, flowers, and trees, bmds hanging in cages, and little foimtains playing. When lighted up at night, this has a very pleasing effect. Among the incalculable number of public baths, the following are the most celebrated : Bains de Vigier. Baths of Vigier, near the second arch, and above the Pont Royal (Royal Bridge), so named after their director, whose ^tablishment is upon the most liberal and expanded scale. A floating ves- sel, 210 feet in length, and 65 in breadth, contains no z 251 < BATHS. less than 140 separate baths, which in the summer j are always filled from break of day until 1 1 o’clock at j night. ^ ‘ On each side of the vessel is a promenade, over I which orange-trees, myrtles, roses, and other odori- |l ferous plants, diffuse the most fragrant perfume. The admission to the bath is 30 sols. I The Baths of Albert, at the quay d’Orsai, facing the Thuilleries, are much frequented. Here are like- \ wise celebrated medicinal baths. Upon the same quay are excellent warm baths. Baths of M. Wasse, Rue St. Joseph, (Saint Joseph Street), No. 4, at the entrance of the Ruel Croissant, , (Crescent Street.) j The Summer Vauxhall baths, on the Boulevard of | the Temple. ' Baths of Poitevin, at the bottom of Le Pont Neuf. Turkish Baths, Rue du Temple, No. 98, (Street of the Temple.) These possess the peculiar advantage of a garden for promenade, prior and subsequent to bathing. JBams Chinois. The Chinese Bath. Boulevard des Italiens, No. 25. The construction of these baths is singular. On some artificial masses of rocks several pavillions are erected in the Chinese form. These contain the baths, which are commodious and agree- able. Connected with them is a coffee-house, and the establishment of a restaurateur. Bams Montesquieu, in the street of that name. — These are inferior in elegance and convenience to none that Paris affords. Bains St. Sauveur, Rue St. Denis, No. 277. These baths are of more simple architecture than the former, and of less price, but equally convenient. Bains de Tivoli, Rue St. Lazare, No. 88. In this noble establishment are the common cold and warm baths, with baths of every species of factitious and BATHS. 255 mineral water, and temporary or permanent lodgings for invalids. Ecoles de Natation. Swimming Schools, (Quai d’Orsai.) In the summer season these schools are much frequented by the young Parisians. The art of swimming is expeditiously taught, and at a very reason- able expense. ♦ 256 TRIUMPHAL ARCHES. Porte St, Denis. Gate of St. Denis. [St. Denis Street.] The name of gate is now improperly given to this edifice j it is truly a triumphal arch. It was erected by the city of Paris in commemoration of the uninter- rupted series of victories which distinguished one period of the reign of Louis XIV. It forms a perfect square of seventy-two feet. On each side of the arch are pyramids in bas- relief, filled with trophies. The arrangement of the dilferent pieces, and the execution of the whole, will scarcely yield to the celebrated column of Trajan. On the side towards the city, colossal figures of Holland and the Rhine sit at the base of the pyramids, and the pediment over the arch represents the passage of the Rhine, Towards the suburb, the pyramids rest on lions, and the bas-relief over the arch represents the taking of Maestricht. This monument has been regarded as one of the noblest works of the age of Louis XIV., whether we consider the harmony of its proportions, or the ad- mirable execution of all its parts. Having suffered some injury from time and from the ravages of the Revolution, M. Cellerier was employed to repair it. It does much credit to his taste and his modesty, that he has contented himself with restoring its original inscriptions and sculptures, without one addition or embellishment. TRIUMPHAL ARCHES. 257 Porte St. Martin. Gate of St. Martin. [St. Martin Street.] This triumphal arch was likewise built during the reign of Louis XIV. It forms a square of 54 feet, and is divided into three arches, the centre of which is 15 feet wide and 30 high, and the others 8 feet wide and 16 high. The spaces above the smaller arches are occupied by bas-reliefs, representing, towards the city, the taking of Besancon, and the Triple Alliance ; and on the side of the suburb, the taking of Limbourg, and the defeat of the Germans. Above is a pediment, and an inscription extending through the whole of the front. The gate of St. Martin is inferior to that of St. De- nis in richness, but it does not yield to it in harmony of proportion, or delicacy of execution. Triumphal Arch of the Thuilleries. This ai'ch, which forms the principal entrance to the court of the Thuilleries, was built on the plan of that of Septimius Severus of Rome, nor is it inferior to its celebrated original. It is sixty feet wide, and forty-five feet high. The centre arch is fourteen feet wide, the others eight and a half. Each front is deco- rated with four columns of the Corinthian order, sup- porting marble figures, representing different soldiers ; towards the palace are a grenadier, a canonier, a ^arabinier, and a pioneer; on the other side are a cuirassier, a dragoon, a carabinier, and a chasseur. Four bas-reliefs adorn the attic. On the outside are, jn the right, the arms of France, supported by Peace z 3 258 AR€H DE L’eTOILE, and Plenty ; and on the left, the arms of Italy, sustained by Wisdom and Strengtli. On the side towards the palace are the same arms, accompanied by divers attri- butes of the Arts and Sciences. Four other bas-reliefs are over the smaller arches, representing, on the side towards the palace, the entry of Munich, and the interview of the two Emperors ; and on the other side, the battle of Austerlitz and the capitulation of Ulm. Over the centre arch, in a triumphal car, was the statue of Napoleon. The bronze horses were the celebrated productions of Lysippus, which formerly ornamented the squtire of St. Marc at Venice, and which had before adorned the arch of Nero at Rome. This group, which had a picturesque effect, and well terminated a building remarkable for the elegance of its proportions, the happy arrangement of its Affer- ent parts, and the inimitable execution of the whole, has disappeared. The horses have been restored to their rightful owners, and the statue of Napoleon has been hiuled to the ground. Triumphal Arch de VEtoile. Buonaparte had commenced a triumphal arch at the Barriere de I’Etoile, which was to have surpassed every similar edifice in magnitude, and to have an- nounced to future generations his triumph over Russia and Europe. It had already attained a considerable elevation, and formed a conspicuous object from the Thuilleries, and the bank of the Seine; but it yet stands an unfinished monument of disappointed pride and baffled ambition. BARRIERS. 259 BARRIERES DE PARIS. THE BARRIERS OF PARIS. These are situated at the several principal avenues to the suburbs of the city, and are occupied by the custom-house officers, who are stationed there to col- lect the duties. Mons. Le Doux has very tastefully diversified the form of these buildings. The barrier of Chaillot bears the appearance of a row of pillars; those of Paillassons and r Ecole Militaire resemble two chapels. On the side of Mont Parnasse de la Voirie and GreneUe, the Barriers assume a heavy and massive appearance, while others display rural simplicity. Be- yond La Rapee the eye is greeted with a temple dedi- cated to Venus, and the Barrier of the Gobelins is entitled Marengo. As it would too much extend the boundaries of this publication to enter into a detailed account of the fifty-six Barrieres that environ Paris, the writer will mention onl}^ the following : — Barrier of Fontainebleau. The barrier of Fontainebleau consists of two parallel buildings, placed on each side of the road. Five arcades form a covered porch. The whole is simple, elegant, and original. Barrier of the Throne ; or, Barrier of St. Anthony. This barrier presents two lodges, each forty-nine feet square, and 270 feet from each other. A pAisade 260 BARRIER OR PASSY. connects them, in the centre of which two columns of the Doric order are elevated, each seventy-five feet high, and placed on a square building which serves for a pedestal. ' The effect of the whole is very pleasing, and well announces the entrance to the metropolis of the kingdom. Barrier of St. Martin. The barrier of St. Martin is square, each front presenting a peristyle, composed of eight columns of the Tuscan order. Above rises a circular building with twenty arcades, plain and unadorned. The style of the whole is bold, masculine, and perfectly unique. Barrier of I’Etoile. This is placed near the unfinished triumphal arch. It consists of two square buildings, each adorned by twenty colossal columns, a cornice, and four entabla- tures, and terminating in a circular roof resembling a dome. Barrier of Passy. This edifice is embellished by twelve columns, four entablatm-es, and two colossal statues representing Brittany and Normandy. ^261 MARKETS. The markets of Paris were formerly small and inconvenient, and the halls for the use of the mer- chants mean and insignificant. The last age, however, has been singularly occupied in the embellishment or erection of numerous monuments of public utility; and, within the last twelve years, edifices have been commenced or finished, which have cost the state more than fifty millions of francs. Foremost on the list stands Halle au Ble, The Corn Market. [Rue du Vinsmes.] M. Maizieres constructed this hall in 1762 , for the sale of wheat and other corn. It was celebrated for its circular form, the lightness of its arches, the elegance of its architecture, and its pleasing appearance both within and without. This building proving too small, it was resolved to cover the court, although it was no less than 120 feet in diameter. This was accomplished by one immense arch. After enduring twenty-two years, it was destroyed by fire in 1 802 . The present hall is built of cast-iron ; and to lessen the former transparency, by which the eye was dazzled, rather than the edifice agreeably illuminated, the light is admitted by a lantern in the centre, thirty-seven feet in diameter. On the outside of the edifice, and attached to the wall, is an astronomical column, which Catherine de Medicis ordered to be built in 1 572. It is of the Doric style of architecture, and ninety-five feet in height. 262 GRANARIES. At its foot is a public fountain, and on its summit am| enormous sun-dial. The hall is open every Wednesday and Saturday , for the sale of grain, and every day for flour. Halle aux Draps. The Cloth Hall. [Rue de Poterie.] The exterior decoration of the building is imposing. A double flight of steps conducts to the interior, the immense halls of which are lighted by fifty windows. It is open for the sale of cloth every day, and for linen for five days after the first Monday in every month. Halle aux Vins, ' The Wine Hall. [Quai St. Bernard.] The ancient hall having fallen to utter ruin, Napo- leon commanded the first stone of the present magnifi- cent depot to be laid in 1811. It is divided into four- teen halls and eighty-one cellars, and will contain 200,000 hogsheads of wine. It is open every day. Greniers de Reserve, Granaries. This immense building was erected in 1807, near the Boulevard Bourdon. It cost more than twelve millions, and is supposed to be capable of containing sufficient corn to supply Paris for six months. MARKETS. 263 Marche des Innocens, Market of the Innocents. [Between the Streets Feromerie and Fers.] In the ninth century a tower occupied this space, which was built to repel the attacks of the Normans. This being destroyed, the place was converted into a burial-ground, and more than half of the population of Paris was interred here. A church dedicated to the Innocents was likewise built. In 1785, this church w^as demolished I and the putrid exhalations which spread around, rendered it necessary to shut up the cemetery, which had been a scandal and a nuisance to the very centre of the city. The nuisance, however, continued; for the ground, completely saturated with the dead, refused longer to assist in their decomposition. It was therefore determined to remove them from the cemetery, and to convert the vast expanse into a market for vegetables. The catacombs received the mouldering bones; the more offensive remains of mortality were conveyed to a considerable distance from Paris, and the principal and most pleasing market of the metropolis was established. In the centre is a beautiful fountain, which has already been described. Marche d la Volaille, The Poultry Market. [Rue des Grands Augustins.] Nothing can be more elegant than this edifice, consisting of four galleries, separated by four ranks of pillars, and forming innumerable areadcs. Betw ecu the 264 * MARKETS. pillars are placed iron railings with numerous gates. The building is 190 feet long, and 141 wide. A fresh assortment of poultry and game usually arrives every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Satur- day. Marche St. Martin. St. Martin's Market. A NEW market of unusual elegance and convenience is now erecting in the garden of the ancient priory of St. Martin. It will contain no less thaa 300 stalls. Marche St. Joseph. St. Joseph's Market. [Rue Montmartre.] This little market was built in 1794, on the site of a chapel dedicated to St. Joseph. Moliere and La Fontaine had been buried here, and their remains are now trodden under foot by the venders of poultry and fish. Marche St. Jean, St. John's Market. [Rue de la Verrerie.] Pierre de Craon having assassinated the Constable Clisson in 1391, all his property was confiscated, and his habitation rased to the ground. The place on which it stood was given to the Churchwardens of St. John, who augmented their burial-ground with it. At what period it was converted into a market is not known, MARKETS. 265 Marche St, Germain, St. Germain’s Market. [Rue du Foir.] On a spot, which was once occupied by a multitude of the meanest huts, and which was the resort of the lowest orders of the dissolute and abandoned, an edifice is now erecting, designed as a market, and which promises to be spacious, elegant, and commodious. Marche du Vieux Linge, Rag Fair. 1 [Rue du Temple.] A MULTITUDE of pillars support the four enormous halls of which this immense bazaar is composed. It contains 800 stalls or shops. i Marche aux Fleurs, The Flower Market. [Quai Dessaix.] This market is tastefully arranged, and is even su- iperior to the South of Covent Garden in the months of May and June. > Marche aux Fruits, The Fruit Market. [Quai de Tournelle.] This market is well supplied every day with such fruits as are in season, most part of which arrive by water. A A 266 MARKETS. Marche aiix Chevaux, The Horse Market. [Boulevard de I’Hopital.] Held on Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 2 till 4 in winter, and till 6 in summer. A strict police is pre- served here to prevent unsound horses from being sold. Exact registers of sales are kept, and the seller is an- swerable for 9 days, according to the warrant given at the sale. The Cattle and Sheep Markets are out of town, at Sceau and Poissy. Butchers who are established must open an account with two public Banks established for the purpose of making payments in ready money to dealers in cattle. They may do this by giving security, from 1 to 3,000 francs. The causes, or banks, make the payments for their purchases to the amount of the security. This is a wise regulation to prevent prices from being raised by credit, or sales being stopped for want of money. Marche des Prouvaires. [Near St. Eustache.] This new market, just opened for the sale of butch- ers’ meat, is on a large scale, and excellently planned. The Fish-Market every day. Rue Montmartre. The Hay-Market. Quai de la Tournelle. The Potato-Market. Place du Legal. The Pork-Market (Maison Blanche), on Wednesday and Saturday. Abattoirs, Slaughter Houses. The slaughter-houses, which are considered the nui- sance and disgrace of the English metropolis, are placed MARKETS. 267 in the outskirts of Paris, and under the inspection of the police. The slaughter-house of Montmartre, at the end of Rochechouart Street, rivals many of the public buildings in its external appearance. It is no less than 1,074 feet in length, and 384 in depth, and is watered by sluices from the Ourcq. On entering it, the stranger perceives no disagreeable smell ; he wit- nesses no disgusting sight ; and often he would not sus- pect the purpose to which the building is devoted. The English traveller should not fail to visit these useful edifices. He will return with a wish to reform those nuisances, and abodes of cruelty, filth, and pestilence, which disgust him in the capital of his own country. The slaughter-houses of Popincourt, Rue St. Aman- diers, St. Antoine, and of Vaugirard, between the bar- riers of Sevres and Paillassons, almost rival that at Montmartre. A A 2 268 COURTS OF JUSTICE. Since the restoration of the Bourbons, the French government have evinced an anxiety to administer justice in a similar manner to that practised in England, particularly as it respects trial by jury. Cour de Cassation* Court of Appeal. It is composed of a president, vice-president, and forty-five counsellors. This court does not judge re- specting the rights of the parties, but only reverses or confirms a decree when an appeal is made to it, either on account of informality in the proceedings or mis- application of the laws. Cour des Comptes. Court of Accompts. This is held at the Palace of Justice. It has a pre- sident, three vice-presidents, ten masters of accompts, and eighty referees. It attends to the oaths of those who receive or pay pnblic money, and judges all causes relative to the revenues of the state, mortgages, &c. It opens at nine o’clock in the morning, and has no vacation. Cour Hoyale. Royal Court. Held at the Palace of Justice. It consists of a pre- sident, five vice-presidents, and numerous other officers. COURTS OF JUSTICE. 269 It is divided into five chambers, three for civil actions, one for appeals from the Correctional Police, and ano- ther for accusation. It sits from the day after the first Sunday in December, till the 15th August. Tribunal de Premiere Instance. Tribunal of the First Instance. This is held at the Palace of Justice. It is divided into six chambers, five for civil affairs, and the sixth for correctional. There are 114 notaries in Paris, who write all agree- ments, wills, life certificates, leases, mortgages, sales of estates, and other authentic acts. Attorneys in Paris do not, as in London, transact any business of this kind. The difference between conveyancing attorney and attorney at common law, is only voluntary in England ; but it is not so in France, where the avoue or attorney at law never makes conveyances, and the notary cannot act in a court of law. Tribunal de Commerce. Tribunal of Commerce. [Cloitre St. Mery.] This court sits every day, except Tuesdays and Sa- turdays. The judges are commercial men of great re- putation. There are ten officers, called gardes de commerce^ who properly belong to this court, and who have the exclusive power of personal arrest. A A 5 270 COURTS OF JUSTICE. Tribunal de Police Municipal. Court of Municipal Police. This is held at the Palace of Justice. The justices of the peace sit here alternately, and judge all police affairs, from 1 franc to 25 francs. Juges de Paix. Justices of the Peace. These are twelve in number, being one for each ar- rondissement, who settle all trifling differences between individuals. They hold their sittings at the following places. No. 8, Rue Royale. St. Honore. No. 5, Rue d’Antin, Batiment des Petits Peres, Place des Victoires. No. 4, Place du Chevalier du Guet. No. 4, Rue Thevenot. No. 2, Rue St. Apolline. No. 1, Rue de la Poterie. No. 37, Rue St.-Bernard. No. 4, Rue des Barres. No. 11, Rue de TUniversite. No. 62, Rue du Vieux Colombier. No. 22, Rue des Ber- nardins. Commissaries de Police. Commissaries of the Police. Their office is similar to that of the constables in England. They attend at public places, and receive all complaints in the first instance. 271 PRISONS, Prison de la Force. Prison of la Force. [Pres la Place Royale.] If it were admissible to say that the structure and portal of a prison were handsome, the building now under review deserves attention. The massive vaulting of the great entrance presents a very fine specimen of modern architecture, and is the only one of this kind in Paris. This edifice is divided into six departments, each having a court-yard, covered gallery, infirmary, a store for common use, and reflectors, which are kept burning all night. Le Temple. The Temple. [Rue de la Corderie. Street of La Corderie.] The tower of the Temple was used as a place of confinement for prisoners of state. It was particularly interesting to the traveller, as having been the last resi- dence of the unfortunate Louis XVI. and his family, who only quitted its gloomy precincts to ascend the scaffold. The gallant Sir Sidney Smith was confined here, and within these walls the unfortunate Captain Wright lost his life. The pile of buildings which originally occupied the enclosure of the Temple has been partly demolished; and streets have been erected on the site communicating with the Corderie. The Temple was built in 1200, and was the principal residence of the Knights Templars. Their increasing munbers, wealth, and power, rendered them an object ^72 PRISONS. of jealousy to the sovereigns in whose dominions they resided, and the Pope and the King of France conspired together to dissolve the order, and to seize on all their riches. They were accused of the most horrible crimes, were condemned almost unheard, and 54 of them were burnt with a slow fire on the Pont Neuf. La Conciergerie. This prison is situated under the Palais de Jus- tice, and is appropriated for the reception of those who, convicted of crimes, await the sentence of the law. The entrance to this fabric is in the court of the Palace, being rendered conspicuous by an ornamented arcade. Within the walls of this fatal building were confined, in 1794, the famous Lavoiser, Malesherbes, Condorcet, and numerous other characters, as re- nowned for their virtues as for their science. St, Pelagie, [Rue de la Clef. Key Street, No. 14.] This building, erected in 1665 for the reception of female penitents, was converted into a prison at the commencement of the Revolution. It is large, com- modious, well distributed, and well ventilated. It is now a place of confinement for debtors, and for those who are detained by the police. Madelonnettes, [Rue des Fontaines. Fountain Street, No. 24.] It was formerly a monastery, but is now transformed into a prison for women convicted of crimes. PRISONS. 27S Bieetre, The Bicetre is situated oft the road to Fontaine- bleau, about a league and a half from Paris. In the centre of an hospital for the blind and insane is a strong prison, in which those who are condemned to the galleys are confined until the time of their depar- ture. They who are adjudged to suffer a certain pe- riod of imprisonment are likwise often sent here, and many who are suspected of crimes against the state are lodged within these walls. St, Lazare^ [Rue du Faubourg St. Denis, No. 117'.] Women sentenced to different periods of imprison^ ment are confined here, under an excellent system of management, and being compelled to work, are fre- quently taught habits of industry. The beautiful needle-work of the inhabitants of St. Lazare is univer- sally admired. UAhbaye, The Abbey. [Rue St. Marguerite, Faubourg St. Germain, No. 10.] This is now exclusively a military prison. It was the theatre of the most dreadful massacres in Sep- tember, 1792. 274 ^ CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. The hospitals and charitable institutions of Paris are supported and maintained by government. Their num- ber is scarcely credible. More than 15,000 beds are made^ up at the different hospitals, and the annual ex- penditure is computed at 500,000/. sterling. Hotel des Inmlides^ ou Hotel de Mars. Hospital for Invalids. This building was projected by Henry III., com- menced by Henry IV., and completed by Louis XIV. They whose blood had flowed for the safety and honour of their country, deserved a peaceable and comfortable asylum in their old age. The edifice happily unites the bold and masculine character that suited the pur- pose to which it was devoted, with the magnificence of the sovereign who erected it. * It is composed of five courts, of equal form and di- mensions, surrounded by buildings. A vast esplanade, bordered by rows of trees, and the centre decorated by a fountain, gives to the principal facade towards the Seine a noble perspective. A superb railing en- closes the court before the hotel. The front consists of three floors above the basement, which is pierced with arcades. An advanced building presents itself in in the centre, and at each extremity. That in the centre, and in which is the principal entrance, is deco- rated by Ionic pillars supporting a magnificent arch, in which was a bas-relief containing an equestrian statue of Louis XIV., accompanied by Justice and Prudence, 4 HOSPITALS. 275 the workmanship of the younger Coustou. These two figures yet remain. On each side of the gate are other figures represent- ing the nations conquered by Louis XIV., with colos- sal statues of Mars and Minerva. A spacious dome adorns the church, surrounded by forty columns of the Composite order, covered with lead, and ornamented with gilding. Above is a cupola with pillars, supporting a pyramid surmounted by a cross, which is 308 feet from the ground. From this lofty situation is an extensive view of Paris and its en-i virons. The church is regarded as the chef d’oeuvre of French architecture, although it has been justly remarked that the portal is too small and too much divided to suit i the lofty building to which it conducts. The interior of the dome was painted by Charles La Fosse, and re- presents “ The Apotheosis of St. Louis.” Beneath it are “ The Twelve Apostles,” by Jouvenet. From the dome were suspended the colours taken from different nations. They exceeded three thou- sand. It was a sublime idea to make the asylum of these veterans the depository of the choicest spoils of war. As they walked beneath the waving banners, perhaps the trophies of their own valour, every glorious exploit, in which they had borne a share, was recalled warm to their memory. They forgot their wounds, they forgot their age ; again they fought the battles of their country ; again they exulted in the shout of vic- tory. When the Allies were about to enter Paris, the French invalids tore down the banners, and made a bonfire of them, that it might never be siiid they w^re retaken. The sword of the great Frederick was likewise depo- sited here. It was claimed by Prince Blucher on the entrance of the Allies into the capital, and restored to Berlin, whence it had been taken by Buonaparte. 276 HOSPITALS. The objects whicii principaOy deserve the attention of the traveller are, the tesselated pavement under the dome, exquisitely finished ; the four refectories, orna- mented with delineations of the battles of Louis XIV. ; the remarkably spacious kitchens; the time-piece, by Le Pautre ; and the fa 9 ade on the river-side, occupying an extent of 200 yards. Every accommodation is pre- pared for the comfort of the interesting inhabitants of this hospital. A large and well-furnished library offers rational and inexhaustible amusement to the officers of every rank. In the vaults of the church are deposited the remains of the great Turenne; a name which ever recalls to the mind of the Frenchman and the soldier the ideas of in- vincible courage and unsullied honour. On each side of the monument are figures represent- ing Wisdom and Valour deploring the loss of the hero. In front is a bas-relief of the battle of Turckeim. The marshal is expiring in the arms of Victory. The simple name of “ Tureene” is the only and the sublime inscrip- tion which the mausoleum bears. Not far from him reposes Marshal Vauban. The fountain in the centre of the esplanade was en- riched by the lion of bronze taken from the square of St. Mark at Venice. It was the intention of Napoleon to have converted the esplanade into a military Elysium. The statue of every ancient and modern hero was to have been placed under the waving foliage. This would have completed the sublimity of the edifice. The hospital is open for the inspection of strangers every day, from ten until four. HOSPITALS. 277 Hospice d' Humanite, Hospital of Humanity* (Formerly Hotel Dieu.) [Rue du MarcM Palu. Palu Market Street.] ' This hospital, the most ancient in Paris, and con- stantly crowded with sick, is most absurdly situated in the most populous part of the city. Towards the close of the reign of Louis XVI., its situation and management had become a matter of national concern, and indeed of national danger. Five thousand sick were crowded in less than 1,400 beds. On the same couch were often stretched the consump- tive patient, the man who was devoiued by a burning fever, the dead, and the dying. Neither the sedulous and tender care of 100 sisters, nor the skill of the most celebrated physicians, could save more than a fifth part of those who were consigned to the chambers of the Hotel Dieu : ill ventilated, and poisoned by putrid and infectious miasmata, the slightest malady became dan- gerous, and the poor wretch who was admitted into this pestilential abode was already numbered with the dead, Louis XVI., whose humanity can never be questioned, and who deserved a better fate, was no sooner informed of this, than he commanded that another hospital should be erected in the outskirts of the city. The dreadful scenes of the Revolution soon followed, and this bene- volent undertaking was abandoned ; yet many monas- teries, which were then forcibly suppressed, were con- verted into hospitals, and effected, although not so hap- pily, nor so completely, the piu-pose which Louis in- tended. Lying-in-women, scrofulous patients, lunatics, those who were afilicted with chronic diseases, or in- 278 HOSPITALS. fectioiis complaints, and all children, were then con- signed to other receptacles. The unfortunate inhabitants of this building are ten- | derly nursed by the Sisters of Charity, — a class of nuns j whose lives are consecrated to the seryice of humanity, t Lepreux is the chief physician, and Pelletan the sur- h geon of the hospital. i Hospice de la Salp'etrm'e. [Near the Garden of Plants.] This immense pile of building was begun in 1656, and finished in the year following. It derives its name from a saltpetre manufactory in the neighbourhood. It generally contains some thousands of poor healthy women, who are comfortably maintained, but obliged to employ themselves in some useful work. The prin- ciple is similar to that of a well-conducted English work-house. One part of the hospital is appropriated to idiots and epileptic patients. In a separate court is a prison for the reception of prostitutes, who are sent here for punishment. Pinel, physician; and Lalle- mant, surgeon. Hopital de la CharitL [Kue des Saints Peres.] Was founded by Mary de Medicis, in 1602. It receives only men attacked by acute diseases, or who have sulFered by accidents, and can accommodate 250. A Clinical School is now established here. The dis- position of the different baths is very ingenious. Duf mangiii, physician ; and Deschamps, surgeon. HOSPITALS. 279 Hojpital St. Loiiis. [Rue des Recolets.] This extensive pile of buildings completely surrounds a court of more than .300 feet square. It is used as a pest-house, for the reception of persons ill of infectious diseases. The precautions to prevent the communica- tion of infection deserve the attention of the medical traveller. Delaport, physician ; Ruffin, surgeon. HSpital JBemijon. [Rue du Faubourg du Roule.] The architecture of this hospital has been as much admired as the humane purpose to which it is devoted. It is established on the same principle as the Hotel Dieu. Dupont, physician ; Palarouy, surgeon. Maiso7i de Smite, [Rue du Faubourg St. Martin.] The regulations of this house are peculiar. Every patient is compelled to pay two francs a day for ad- mission into the common wards. For three francs each patient has a chamber to himself. This establishment is ingeniously and humanely contrived for those who are unable to procure })roper medical assistance, yet whose pride will not permit them to apply to a common hospital. Dumeril, physician ; Dubois, surgeon. ' 280 HOSPITALS- H6])ital des OiyhelineSi [Barriere de S4ves.] For the reception of orphan girls^ Hopital Bicetre, This edifice (vide p- 273,) is about three miles from Paris, on the road to Fontainebleau, and is a similar institution to La SalpHrere^ but confined to men only. At a distance it has the appearance of an immense pile of fortifications. On a nuarer approach the hospital is found to be unusually lofty, and surrounded by a fosse. The proportion of old men in this institution is great, and almost incredible. It is said that there are often more than two hundred^ upwards of seventy years of age. The accommodation' for the insane are not so con- venient as humanity requires. They are damp and ill Ventilated, but the irdirmary is remarkably well arranged. The immense kitchens and the well, 207 feet deep, are generally shewn to strangers. Parisot, physician ; Dumont, surgeon. Hopital de la Pitie. Hospital of Pity. [Rue Fosses St. Victor, behind the Garden of Plants.] ' Two thousand children of soldiers who died in their eountry*^s cause, are rescued from want and vice, and supported and educated here. HOSPITALS. 281 Hopital de la Maternite, This hospital is divided into two departments, and occupies two distinct buildings, one for lying-in-women (Rue d’Enfer,) the other for fondling children (Rue de la Bourbe.) There cannot be a more interesting sight than the nm'sery of the second department. One hundred and fifty cradles are placed in a line, each containing an infant. As soon as they can be provided with nurses they are removed into different wards, or sent to the houses of their foster parents. Nearly six thousand infants are born in this hospital, or received into it every year. Chasseur, physician ; Dubois, principal accoucneur. Hopital des Enfans Tromes, The Foundling Hospital. [Faubourg St. Antoine.] This hospital is more particularly appropriated to the reception of foundling children.' Nothing more is necessary than to leave them at the gate. Not a ques- tion is asked, and the abandoned orphan experiences every care. The children are instructed in every ne- cessary and useful branch of learning ; and, at the pro- per age, are placed in situations, in which they can creditably earn their own subsistence, and become re- spectable members of society. I will not here discuss the morality of the establish- ment ; but thus much is certain, that the crime of ‘ infanticide is absolutely unknown in the French metro- polis, and that the number of illegitimate children in Paris does not exceed those in London, where the s s 5 ^282 HOSPITALS. wretched mother finds it so difficult to gain her helpless infant an asylum in a similar institution; and, being required to appear personally, and state her shame and her desertion, can seldom be induced to comply with the cruel regulation. Hopital des Enfans Malades, Hospital for Sick Children. [Rue de Sevres, No. 5.] This hospital was formerly appropriated to indigent women, but it is now devoted to the reception of dis- eased children under the age of five years. The salu- brity of the air, and the extensive wEdks which are at- tached to the building, singularly contribute to save many hundreds of the infant population of the metro- polis. Mongenot, physician ; BafFos, surgeon. Hopital Cochin* [Rue Faubourg St. Jacques, No. 45.] This hospital was founded by the venerable Cochin, cure of the parish, in 1V82, who saw with regret his indigent parishioners exposed to the dangers which the Hotel Dieu then presented. To provide them with a safer and more comfortable asylum, he disposed of all his property, and even his books. The hospital con- tains one hundred and thirty beds. Bertin, physician ; Carron, surgeon. HOSPITALS. 28 S Hospice des Menages, [Rue de la Chaise.] This is conducted on the same plan with the institu- tion at Chaillot, which will be mentioned in the de- scription of the environs of Paris. It was formerly called “ Les Pefites Mahons^ from the lowness of the buildings, Maret, surgeon. Hospice des Incurables Femmes^ Hospital for . Incurable Women. [Rue de Sevres, No. 54.] Cardinal Rochefoucault founded this hospital in 1637. Five hundred and ten aged women, lame, pal- sied, or blind, are comfortably lodged, fed, and clothed here. Dumas and Lafond, surgeons. Hospice des Incurables Hommes. Hospital for Incurable Men. [Rue du Faubourg St. Martin.] This building was formerly a convent. In 1790 it was devoted to its present and better purpose. Four hundred infora old men fmd here a comfortable re- treat. Levigne, surgeon. 284 . Hospitals. Etahlissement en Faveur des Blessh Indigens, Establishment for the Wounded Poor. [Rue du Petit Muse, No. 9.] M. DumoJ^t, a celebrated surgeon, had long gratui- tously attended to the accidents of the poor. His patients became so numerous that his private fortune was not sufficient to supply them with the necessary bandages and medicines. To enable him to continue his benevolent undertaking, government now allows him 2,000 francs per annum. To this long list the following establishments must be added Hopital du Nom. de Jesus, (of the name of Jesus,) near the church St. Laurent, was instituted to receive the aged of both sexes. It owes its foundation to Vin- cent de Paule. Hopital de V Ahhaye St. Antoine. Of the Abbey of St. Anthony. In the street of that name. Prat, physi- cian ; Thillaye, surgeon. Hopital de Mont Rouge. Rue d^Enfer. (Hell Street.) Hopital de Vaccination Gratuit. Hospital of Gratuitous Vaccination. Place de Greve. Hopital des Teigneux. La Planche Street, in the suburbs of St. Germain. Hopital du Sud, otherwise Hospital of St. James, near the Observatory. Hopital des Veneriens. Rue St. Jacques (St. James Street.) Gilbert, physician ; Cullerier, surgeon. Hopital de la Roquette. La Roquette Street. HUpital Militah'e. Street of the Faubourg St. Jacques. Suburb St. James. Formerly called Val de Grace. The beautiful dome of this ancient abbey has been already described, page 209. Hospice de Vaccination. Rue du Battoir Saint Andre. HOSPITALS. 285 Bureau central (T Admission dans lesHopitaux^ Central Office of Admission into the Hospitals. [Place du Parvis Notre Dame, No. 2.] Different hospitals being appropriated for the treat- ment of different diseases, a peculiar and very proper regulation is adopted at Paris* All the poor and sick, who have not experienced any sudden accident that re- quires immediate relief, are obliged to present them- selves before a committee of physicians assembled here, who ascertain the nature of the disease, and consign each to his proper hospital. The office is open from nine until four. ! Bureau des Nourrices. Establishment fot I Nurses. ' [Rue St. Apolline.] Ladies, who are unable to nurse their own children, may at all times find here nurses, on whom they can place unlimited confidence. The health and morals of these nurses are scrupulously examined, and their con- duct diligently observed by agents of the Bureau, from j whom they receive their s^ary, and who are responsible for their behaviour. Infants may likewise be sent here to be nursed. Young married women of good character easily gain admission here for themselves and their infants, on the j condition that they will take the charge of another I child. They are comfortably lodged, and have a suffi- cient gratuity. The ward presents a curious and inte- 286 HOSPITALS. resting spectacle. Every bed is placed between two cradles, one for the eleve, and the other for the nurse’s own child. It is a yemarkable circumstance, that, notwithstand- ing this long list of charitable institutions, and the numerous public and gratuitous schools which exist, the poor of Paris are more in number, and more idle, than in any other city in Europe. This arises from the ease with which relief is obtained, without character and without exertion, and from the means of dissipation which the poorest person always finds in that gay metropolis 287 PUBLIC SCHOOLS. Among the almost innumerable imhlic Institutions for ' the Education of Youth^ the following 'prinoipally deserve notice : — Univcrsite Royal de France. Royal University of France. [Rue de Lille, No. 54.] The university is indebted for its origin to the illus- trious Charlemagne. It was suppressed in 1792, and has since been re-established on a more extensive plan. It consists of four colleges, viz. of Theology, Law, Medicine, and Letters and the Sciences. These col- leges are situated in different parts of the city, but their principal sittings are held, most of their exami- nations passed, and their degrees conferred, here. The public audiences of the master are held on the first and third Thursday of every month, at twelve o’clock, and the university is open to visitors every day from two until four. The royal university is charged with the superintend- ence of the business of education in every departiiient of France, nor can any school or place of instruction be established without its authority. The colleges of the university arc situated in the following places 288 SURGICAL SCHOOL. Faculte de Theologie, College of Theology. [Rue St. Jacques, No. 115.] Six professors are established here. M. Fontanel, lectures on Logic; Darret, on Ethics; Cottret, on Ecclesiastical History and Church Discipline ; Lanzac, on Hebrew ; Mercier, on the Study of the Scriptures ; and Cuillon, on Pulpit Eloquence. Famlte de Droit, College of Law. [Place St. Genevieve, No. 8.] The Doric portal of this beautiful building has a majestic appearance. The interior is commodiously distributed into numerous spacious halls, where seven professors statedly lecture. Berthelot, on the Roman Law; Delvincourt, Morand, Boulaye, and Cotelle, on the Civil Law; Pigeau, on the Practice of the Courts; and Pardessus, on the Laws of Commerce. Every student must regularly attend during two years to obtain the degree of Bachelor; three years for that of Licentiate ; and fom* for that of Doctor. Regular disputations are held by the candidates, and the examinations are said to be severe. Fcole de Chirurgie. Surgical School. [Rue de I’Ecole, Faubourg St. Germain.] This noble edifice consists of four buildings, en- closing a spacious court. The fa 9 ade towards the 7 THE SURGICAL SCHOOL. 289 Street presents a peristyle of four ranks of colossal Ionic pillars, supporting an attic, which contains the library and the cabinet of anatomy. Above the peristyle is a bas-relief thirty-one feet in length, in which the go- vernment is represented, accompanied by Minerva and Generosity, offering the Plan of the Surgical School to Hygeia, the goddess of Health, attended by Vigi- lance and Pmdence. Five medallions display the portraits of the famous Petit, Mai’echal, Pitard, Lapey- ronie, and Pare. The paintings which decorate the interior, are from the pencil of Gibelin, and the amphi- theatre is capable of containing 1,200 persons. The theatre is at the bottom of the court. In the two wings are spacious halls for demonstrations, and for the meetings of the members of the college. The ornaments of some of these are characteristic, and well executed. This is the first medical school in France, and pro- bably in Europe. It has one peculiar advantage, that not only the morbid and healthy anatomy of the frame -are demonstrated by dissections, not only the most excellent lectures are delivered on the various diseases to which the body is subject ; but an hospital is at- tached to the institution, into which those who labour under rare or peculiarly interesting diseases are gra- tuitously received. Chaussier and Diimeril lecture on anatomy and physiology; Deyeux andVauquelin,' on medical che- fnistry and pharmacy ; Halle and Desgenettes, on the philosophy of medicine; Percy and Richerand, on external pathology ; Pinel and Bourdier, on internal pathology ; De Jussieu and Richard, on medical natural history and botany; Pelletan, Boyer, Corvisai’t, and Leroux, give clinical lectures; Leroi and Desor- meaux, lecture on midwifery; Sue, on forensic medi- cine ; and Thillaye, on the materia meUica, and tlie use of instruments. , c c 290 THE ROYAL COLLEGE. A bi'anch of this institution,*' but confined more to the practice of physic than surgery, is in Rue de la Bucherie. Another branch, confined principally to pharmacy, is in Rue de I’Arbalete,, (Cross-bow-Street.) Lectures are delivered here, during the spring and summer, on botany, chemistry, and pharmacy. All apothecaries, practising in Paris or the departments, must obtain a diploma from this school. The examinations are said to be impartial yet severe. The botanical garden is open every day except Sunday, and is worth visiting. Facultes des Lettres et Sciences. College of Letters and the Sciences. [Rue St. Jacques, No. 115.] The first division of this college boasts of some of the most illustrious names in the republic of letters. Boissonnade now lectures on Greek literature ; Gue- roult and Delaplace, on Latin eloquence; Lemaire, on Latin poetry; De Guerle and Laye, on French eloquence and poetry ; Laromiguiere, on philosophy ; Roger-CoUard and Millon, on the Iristory of philosophy; Lacretelle and Guizot, on ancient and modern history; and Barbi^ du Bocage, on geography. College Foyale de France. The Royal College of France. [Place Cambray, No. 1.] Francis I. established this seminary in 1551, Many THE MILITARY BCHOOL. 291 students are gi‘atiutousIy educated here; and public and gratuitous lectures are daily delivered. This instir tution can boast of the erudite Ramus, the indefatigable Daubenton, the chemist Fourcroy, and formerly of the poet Delille, among its professors. Delambre, now lectures on astronomy ; Mauduit, on geometry ; Biot, on physics; Lefevre-Ginaux, on experimental philo- sophy ; Portal, on anatomy ; Thenard, on chemistry ; Cuvier, on natural history; Pastoret, on the law of Nature, and of nations; Clavier, on history and ethics ; Audran, on Hebrew and Syriac ; Caussin, on Arabic; Kieffer, on Turkish; Sacy, on Persian; Bos- quillon and Gail, on Greek ; Gueroult, on Latin elo- quence ; Tissot, on poetry ; and Andrieux, on French literature. JEcole Militaire. The Military School. [Opposite the Champ de Mars.] This building occupies a vast space near the Invalids, in the plain of Grenelle. Its principal entrance towards the city is on the square of Fontenoy. The grand fa 9 ade is opposite to the Champ de Mars and the bridge of Jena. It was erected in 1751 by Louis XV.j under the superintendence of the architect Gabriel. Two courts, the first of which is 420 feet square, and the second 270 feet, and surrounded by an arcade, supported by clustered Doric columns, conduct to the principal front towards the square of Fontenoy. In the centre a projecting building of the Corinthian order presents itself, with eight columns sustaining an entabla- ture. Two pediments, painted in fresco by M. Gibelin, in imitation of bas-relief, have considerable effect. That on the right represents two athletiu, one of whom is stopping a furious horse ; the other contains an allc- c c 2 ' 292 THE POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL. gorical figure of Application, surrounxled by the attri- butes of the arts and sciences. The fa9ade towards the Champ de Mars has like- wise a projecting building in the centre, composed of Corinthian columns, surmounted by an entablature decorated with bas-reliefs, and accompanied by pedes- tals supporting trophies of arms and statues. The dome has a large and curious sun-dial. The figures of Time and Astronomy at the base have been much admired. In the council-chamber are four paintings, representing the battles of Fontenoy and Laufelt, and the sieges of Toimnay and Fribourg. Three paintings hang over the portal, representing the sieges of Menin, Ypres, and Fumes. The other parts of the edifice and the gardens are in a very simple and pleasing style. This institution was appropriated to the instruction of young men of good family, but who were either possessed of small fortune, or whose fathers had fallen in the service of their country. It long served as a barrack for the Imperial Guard, but it has been re- stored to its original and benevolent destination by Louis XVIIIth. Ecole Toly technique. Polytechnic School. [Rue de la Montagne, St. Genevieve.] This school, which holds the most distinguished rank among the establishments of Paris, is intended to complete the education of the students, who have rendered themselves conspicuous in other institutions, and particularly to form them for the artillery, or to tfain them up as engineers. No officer is admitted into the artillery who has not been educated in the Poly- technic School. . The most distinguished masters in every branch of science are employed by the government. Every year SCHOOL OF THE FINE ARTS. 293 * a certain number of scholars are admitted, after under- going the most rigorous examination in the classics, tne mathematics, mechanics, and drawing. The number of pupils amount to 300. The usual course of study is three years. The school possesses an excellent philosophical and chemical apparatus, and a well-selected library containing 10,000 volumes. * Government pays all the expenses of instruction, and 800 francs per annum are required from every pupil for his board and lodging. Ecole Speciale des Beaux Arts. School of the Fine Arts. [Quai de la Monnaie, Ko. 23.] This school is formed of the ancient royal academies of painting, sculpture, and architecture. It consists of two divisions. The first is the school of painting and sculpture, in which M. M. Menageot, Vincent, Reg- nault, and Gerard, lecture on the former ; and Hou- don, Roland, Lemot, and Stouf, on the latter. Sue, lectures on anatomical expression ; and Valenciennes, on perspective. Medals are given every three months for the best model, and valuable prizes every year for the best painting. The lectures arc daily delivered. The second division is the school of architecture, in which M. Dufoiirny delivers lectures on the principles of the art every Saturday, at one o’clock ; M. Mauduit, lectures on the mathematics every Wednesday and Friday, at eleven; and M. Rondolet, on the actual construction of buildings, every Wednesday and Friday, at six o’clock in the evening. Medals are distributed in this school every month. c c 3 294 SCHOOL FOR DRAWING. Ecole Royale des Fonts et Chaussees, Royal School of Bridges and Roads. [Rue Culture Ste. Catherine, No. ^7.] Eighty pupils, selected from the Polytechnic School, are here taught every branch of science connected with the construction of bridges, canals, harbours, roads, and public edifices. The museum contains a noble collection of plans, charts, and models. Ecole Royale Gratuite de Desseiiu Royal Free School of Design. [Rue de I’Ecole, No. 5.] This unique but useful establishment was founded by M. Bachelier, in 1767, Its purpose is to diffuse scientific principles among the lower classes of me- chanics. Fifteen hundred persons often assemble here. Medals are distributed every month, and prizes ever}’' year. M. Lavit lectures every Monday on practical geometry, arithmetic, and admeasurement ; M. Thierry, every Thursday on architecture ; M. Defraisne, every Tuesday and Friday on the proportions of the human figure and of animals ; and M. Jombert, every Wednes- day and Saturday, on ornamental architectm’e. VETERINARY SCHOOL. 295 lEiCole Speciale et Gratuite de Dessein pour les Jeunes Personnes. Special and Free School for teaching Young Women to Draw, [Rue de Touraine, No. 5.] The very establishment of this institution, although benevolent and judicious, has a French character. Young women, designed for mechanical professions, are gratuitously taught to draw birds, animals, and every species of ornament. There is an annual exhibition of the best performances, and medals are distributed to the deserving. Ecole des Mines. School of Mineralogy. [At the Mint.] The invaluable collection of minerals which this school contains, will be described hereafter. Twenty pupils are admitted, and instructed in every art con- nected with metallurgy and the working of mines. Vauquelin is the inspector of the laboratory, and Haiiy the superintendent of the minerals. ; Ecole Royale VHerinaire d* Alfort. The i Royal Veterinary School at Alfort. This excellent institution was founded by Bourgelet i in 1766, and has since been peculiarly and deservedly ' fostered by government. Every department may send three pupils, and every regiment of cavalry one, who are boarded and instructed at the expense of govern- ! meiit; but numerous pupils aie sent to the college at the expense of their friends. 296 nOYAL ESTABLISHMENT. This institution is the noblest of the kind in Europe, and is conducted oii principles which tend more to the improvement of the art than the emolument of the professors. Lectures are delivered, by seven of the most eminent teachers, on the anatomy and physiology of every domestic animal, the treatment of their diseases, and their management in the field and the stable; natural history, botany, pharmaceutical chemistry, the materia medica, the operations of the forge, veterinary jurisprudence, and the theory and practice of rural economy. A residence of five years is required before the student is authorized to practise as a veterinary surgeon. The school contains a most valuable cabinet of natural history and comparative anatomy, admittance to which may be easily obtained by the stranger. Ecole Nonnale, [Rue des Postes.] This singular and useful establishment has for its object to train up proper persons as professors in the diferent colleges^ and instructors in the various semi- naries of France. The course of study is exceedingly severe, and is adapted to elucidate the talent of the pupil ^or communicating as well as receiving instruction. Maison Rotate des Orphelines de lu Legion d’Honneur. Royal Establishment for the Orphan Daughters ,of the Legion of Honour. [Rue Barbette, No. 2.] Three hundred orphan daughters of the officers of the Legion of lionour are here educated by Nuns. INSTITUTION TOR THE BLIND, 297 Institution Roy ale des Aveugles. Royal Institution for the Blind. [Rue de Charenton, No. 6.] It is to the indefatigable toils and the warm philan- thropy of Monsieur Haiiy that this very useful charity owes its foundation; and it is also indebted to the humanity of the government for its increased state of prosperity. By this meritorious establishment a great number of blind are not only rendered happy in them- selves and useful to society, but are taught to execute many ingenious works with an accuracy and delicacy which the clearest sighted persons can rarely excel. Some are excellent musicians, others arithmeticians; others are printers, glove-makers, weavers; in short, there is no employment beyond the scope of their at- tainment. They are also instructed in reading, geo- graphy, and ciphering; and they have performed a well-written comedy in verse, the production of one of their blind companions, of the name of Avisse, who died in the tenth year of the French Revolution, and whose works are printed and published at Paris. The director of this institution takes infinite pleasure in displaying to the curious all the interesting productions of his pupils, and through his means a library has been procured for their use. On the 26th of every month a public examination takes place, and presents to the man of feeling and humanity one of the most interesting spectacles that the imagination can conceive. Tickets of admission may be procured from the director of the institution, and will not be refused to any stranger, *298 SCHOOL FOR THE DEAF AND DUMB. Institution Hoyale des Sour'ds-Mtiet. Royal Institution for the Deaf and Dumb. [Rue dll Faubourg St. Jacques.] To the Abbe de FEpee humanity is indebted for this noble institution. By methods as simple as ingenious, he has enabled those who were born deaf and dumb, not only to read and to write, but to understand the most complicated rules of grammar and the mathematics, and even to comprehend the abstract ideas of meta- physics. During twenty years he devoted himself to this benevolent pursuit. His time, his health, his for- tune, were expended. The most complete success at length attended his labours. His benevolence and his constancy were rewarded by the patronage of govern- ^ ment; and, placed at the head of this institution, a wider field of usefulness was before him. One hundred and twenty children are now admitted, and 500 francs per annum allowed for the maintenance and comfort of each child. To obtain admittance, the young person must not be less than 1 2 years of age, or more than 1 6. The certificate of a surgeon must attest that the candidate is actually deaf and dumb, and that the parents are unable to defray the expense of his education. Children of more opulent persons are admitted into this institution at a stipend of 900 francs for every boy, and 800 for every girl. At the death of de I’Epee, in 1789, the Abbe Sicard, his pupil, succeeded him as instructor, and still conti- nues to direct the institution. It is open to public inspection every Thursday, from eleven to one o’clock. At the end of every month a public examination takes place, at which it is pre- sumed that no traveller of sensibility will omit to at- ^LYCEUMS, &CV . 299 t€nd. Tickets of admission may be obtained from the director of the institution. lyceums. There are four Lyceums or public schools, in which the pupils enjoy a complete course of collegiate edu- cation. Lycee Louis-le-Grand. Rue St. Jacques, 1 2‘3. Lycee Henry IV. Place St. Genevieve. Lycee Bourbon, Aux Capucins de la Chaussee d’An- tin. Lycee Charlemagne. Rue St. Antoine. The pupils pay 1,000 francs per annum, and at a yearly meeting of the scholars of all the Lyceums nu-r merous prizes are awarded. CoUege de Si, Barbe, [Rue de Rheims.] This is the largest private establishment in Paris, and probably in France. The universally acknowledged talent and parental care of M. Lanneau, have, during some years, attracted no less than 600 scholars. The stipend for boarders is 1,000 francs per annum. Ecoles d! Equitation, Riding-Schools. The best riding-school is that conducted by M. Franconi, of the Olympic Circus, Rue du Mont Tha- bor. There is another school. Rue St. Honore, No, 359. 300 CONSERVATORY OE MUSIC. Academies dd Armes, Fencing Academies. The most celebrated professors of fencing are Me- nissier, Rue du Cadran, and Lebrun, Rue de Clery. Consermtoire de Musique. Conservatory of Music. [Rue Bergere, No. 2.] The design of this establishment is to cultivate a taste for music, and to produce a succession of performers for the church, the army, and the theatre. It usually contains 400 pupils, who previously undergo a strict examination into the progress which they have made, and the hope which they give of future excellence. Lectures are delivered on the theory and practice of music, and on its connexion with the sciences. The distribution of the annual prizes is preceded by a con- cert, in which the most eminent performers assist. Attached to this institution is a school for declama- tion, in which the celebrated Talma does not disdain to appear as one of the teachers. 301 PRIVATE SCHOOLS. Academical Institution for the European Nations. [Rue de Monsieur, No. 8.] The object of this institution is to unite, in an academy in Paris, a hundred students of the lirst families of the allied nations ; to provide the most enlightened and de- servedly esteemed teachers of the capital ; to afford the students instruction suitahle to the progress of the human mind, and conformable to the actual improvement of the sciences ; to teach them every thing that religion, mora- lity, or philosophy can do to improve the heart, or em- bellish the mind ; to ground them, not only in the radical principles of instruction, but also to make them acquaint- ed with the literature of the most distinguished nations of Europe ; to give them a view of civil, political, and commercial history, from its earliest origin to the pre- sent day, the history of arts, their commencement, and progress ; the natural sciences, both physical and mathe- matical, from the simplest elements to the most sublime theories; the law of nations, the civil codes of different nations, their diplomatic, agricultural, and commercial interests ; universal grammar, physiology, and anatomy ; and unite the useful and pleasing arts of writing, paint- ing, music, declamation, dancing, equitation, fencing, and natation. Each religion has its particular minister. A physician and a surgeon will visit the students every morning, and make their report to the directors of the establishment. Each division has its particular professors, its apart- ments, its places for recreation, and its private refec- tories. Ten servants, speaking the several languagesof Eu- rope, are solely occupied in attending on the students. D U 302 PRIVATE SCHOOLS. The beauty, the extent, and well-chosen situation of the house, leaves nothing to wish for. A large garden, which surrounds the house, opens a beautiful prospect oa the Boulevard des Invalides. The directors of the establishment are M. de Mielle, Officer of the University of France, Doctor of the Fa- culty of Letters, formerly Professor of Literature in the Academy of Leyden ; and M. de Salgues, formerly Pro- fessor of illoquence, and Royal Censor. The establishment is under the immediate protection of his Excellency the Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. The tutors appointed by the parents, will be admitted with the students. Terms 125 pounds sterling. Furniture 20 pounds sterling. ACADEMY For the Education of Youth of all Countries, CONDUCTED BY M. ISIDORE GUILLET, Professor of the Ancient and Modern Languages. This Academy, which has been established for forty years, and which combines all the advantages of a large and well-aired house, is in the vicinity of the College of Charlemagne, and is known by the name of Hotel de Joyeuse, No. 9, rue St. Louis d. Paris, pres la place Royale. The studies of the different classes of pupils in this insti- tution are directed according to the course pursued in the above-mentioned college; and comprise, in addition to the knowledge of the ancient and modern languages, the various branches of the mathematics, rhetoric, and natural philosophy ; and as the most eminent professors of Paris are employed in the respective departments, it is presumed that Foreigners, who wish their sons to finish their education in the French metropolis, will find pecu- liar advantages in this Seminary, where the health and PRIVATE SCHOOLS, 303 domestic comforts of the young gentlemen are objects of particular attention. The hours of study, of recreation, and of the daily meals, are nearly the same as in the best regulated Eng- lish schools ; and in the event of occasional indisposition, the best arrangements are made not only for the cure, but against any further extension of illness, by means of separate rooms, an experienced nurse, and the first me- dical attention, as well as change of air, should it be found necessary. But in consequence of a system of exercise practised at the hours allotted for that purpose, and a minute attention to the quality as well as quantity of food used in the house, the visits of the physician, though regularly made twice every day, are very sel- dom required. In order to meet the wishes of parents with respect to religion, the Protestant pupils are in- structed in the principles of their own church by a cler- gyman of that persuasion, and the Protestant church which they attend is in the neighbourhood. It is scarcely necessary to observe, that each pupil is accommodated with a separate bed f and may have the first masters in any or all of the polite accomplishments, as well as in the languages and sciences. M. and M^e Guillet attend personally at the meals, and superin- tend the various occupations of their pupils so minutely and constantly^ that parents, at a distance, may place as much confidence in their care ^nd attention, as if they were on the spot. The pupils are attended, both in the play-ground and in their walks, by the masters who re- side in the house ; and as there are no regular vacations, as in England, the studies of the respective classes are not interrupted. TERMS. Board, including washing and mending of linen, for pupils under twelve years of age, forty pounds sterling per annum ; and for those who are above that age, fifty pourMs: to be paid quarterly, and always one quarter in advance. A single bed, including sheets, five pounds per an- num. A half--yearly payment of two pounds ten shil- D D 2 204 < PRIVATE SCHOOLS. lings for eac li pupil is made to the Royal College of Charlemagne, as a remuneration for instruction. Music, vocal and instrumental; Drawing, Dancing, and Fencing, are paid for quarterly, at tlie rate of eighteen shillings the month for each pupil. The books necessary for education, if provided by the principal, must be paid for quarterly ; and no deduc- tion is made in any quarterly charges for occasional ab- sence. The pupils are permitted to visit their parents, or friends, on Sundays after breakfast. A certificate of the age of each pupil must be pro- duced at the time of entrance, when one pound six shillings is paid towards the wages of the servants, who are very numerous. Young pupiis under ten years of age sleep in rooms exclusively superintended by females, who also take charge of their linen. There are usually a few Foreigners residing in M. Guillefs family as parlour boarders, who pay each one hundred pounds sterling, and are treated as his own sons ; but they must be well recommended, aiid their board guaranteed by some respectable banking- house. It is expected that all new pupils, who have not had the small-pox, will bring with them some attestation of their having been vaccinated; and a notice of at least one quarter is requested before a final removal. The wardrobe of each young gentleman must consist of a dozen shirts, a dozen napkins, two combing-cloths, four towels, a dozen pair of stockings, six night-caps, six white cravats and two of black silk, a dozen hand- kerchiefs, two coats and one great-coat, six waistcoats, three pair of cloth pantaloons, and four of nankeen ; a hat, a cap, and three pair of shoes ; all marked and pro- perly numbered. Parents and Guardians in England are requested to pay the quarterly advances to Messrs. Coutls and Co. London, to be forwarded to their Correspondents in Paris, Messrs. La Fitte and Co. who, will cause the same to be paid to M. Guillct. Any reference to Mr, Leigh, 18, Strand, will meet with due attention. PRIVATE SCHOOLS, 305 English, French, and Foreign Institution, Situated on the Domain of the Hermitagef RUE DE MAUREPAS, AT VERSAILLES : Under the direction of MESSRS. SENECHAL AND MITCHELL. The Hermitage is situated in Versailles, 12 miles from Paris, and was originally the residence of Count Maurepas, Minister, and latterly of the Princesses of France. It is peculiarly adapted for an Institution of the first order, every attention having been paid to render it commodious and agreeable. It consists of three large buildings, containing hand- some dining and drawing-rooms, bed-chambers ; having hot and cold baihs. Attached to the Institution are extensive orchards, gardens, a park traversed by a rivulet, and a farm ; all enclosed within a high wall. Versailles, formerly the abode of the Court, unites to the advantage of the purest pronunciation of the French language, that of possessing in its palaces and royal gar- dens a multitude of ch^'s d’ceuvres in sculpture and painting, likely to inspire youth with a taste for the arts and sciences, and the study of ancient and modern lite- rature. The plan on which the Institution is conducted is sim- ple, and at the same time efficient. The most eminent masters are engaged in the different branches of educa- tion; while the directors have the superintendance of the Institution in all its several departments. The Clas- sics are taught by English and French professors. The pupils are dieted in the English or French manner, half-boarders and day-scholars are received. There is in the town an English Chapel of the reform- ed religion, where the pupils attend regularly, and the minister has charge of Ihcir religious instruction. The D D 3 306 PniVATE SCHOOLS?, attendance of an English physician may be had if ne- cessary. The local advantages of the city, the magnificence of the royal palaces, pa^'ks, gardens, and woods ; the pu- rity of the air ; the diversity and beauty of the scenery, and the promenades in the environs, are too generally known to need any description. OBJECTS OF TUITION. First Class, The English, French, Latin, Greek; and Writing, Arithmetic, Geography, History, &c. For Tuition in the Languages and Sciences above specified — 600 Francs per annum, for pupils from six to eleven years ot\age. 800 Francs per annum, for pupils above eleven. Second Class. In addition to the above, may have instruction in the Modern Greek, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish, and Portuguese Languages ; Lessons in Drawing, Dancing, Natation, the Theory of Commerce, Mathematics and Book-keeping, for 800 Francs per annum, for pupils from six to twelve years of age. 1000 ditto for pupils from twelve, to fifteen. 1100 ditto for pupils all above fifteen. In consideration of 150 francs more for those of the first class, and 250 for the second, per annum, the Insti- tution will charge itself with the dues of the University, will provide bed and bed-linen, a silver can, fork, spoon, books, and stationary, and will abide by every charge attendant on their board and education ; the chaplain’s dues and medical charges excepted. The following articles of linen to be sent with the pu- piL ; viz. twelve shirts, twelve pair of stockings, six napkins, six towels, eight cravats or neck-cloths, six night-caps, twelve pocket-handkerchiefs, and tw^o combs, ail properly marked with their name and number. PRIVATE SCHOOLS. 307 It would be desiralde that every Pupil should have a correspondent in London or Paris, witli whom the pro- prietors may communicate. If parents and guardians do not wish to withdraw the pupils during the vacations, they may remain. The expense on remittances to be borne by the pa- rents. Grown persons are received, and lessons given them as to the first class, for 72 guineas per annum, or seven guineas per month, payable quarterly or monthly in ad- vance : they have their board with the principals, and a furnished room to themselves. Lessons in any other science or language will be charged for extra, at the rate of 12s. 6d. for each master per month. Prospectuses of the above Institution may be had of Messrs. Senechal and Mitchell, Versailles ; Mr. A. Mitchell, Translator of Languages, Agent. No. 25, St. Swithin’s Lane, Lombard Street, London; M. Galig- NANT, Bookseller, No. 18, rue Vivienne, Paris ; and Mr. Leigh, ^18, Strand, London. 30B MUSEUMS. Jar din Royal des Plantes s ou^ Jar din du Rou The Royal Garden of Plants; or, King's Garden. [Rue St. Victoire.] This garden was founded by Jean de la Brosse, phy- sician to Louis XIIL, but it is indebted for its present beauty and value to the assiduous labours of Buffon. The name “ Jardin Royal des Plantes,” ill expresses the real nature and interest of the place. In addition to a noble botanic garden, it contains a large menagerie, a museum of natural history and anatomy, and numer- ous halls in which public lectures are delivered on every branch of natural history and philosophy. Each of these divisions will afford inexhaustible amusement and information. At the entrance of the botanic garden, several square enclosures are observed, more interesting probably to the agriculturist than to the casual visiter. The first contains a curious collection of evejy different soil and manure, exhibiting in an instructive manner their com- parative fertility and value. The second enclosure is occupied by specimens of every kind of fence, hedge, ditch, and ha-ha. It like- wise exhibits the different methods of training espalier- fruits, ever-greens, &c. of every description. Beyond these are specimens of all the cidinary ve- getables, and of every plant that has been appropriated to tho food of man, with the most approved and suc- cessful mode of training each. THE ROYAL GARDEN. 309 In the next enclosure are specimens, systematically arranged, of all the fruit-trees, with their numerous va- rieties, of which France or the neighbouring kingdoms can boast. The visiter then arrives at the botanic garden. It consists of more than seven thousand plants, arranged according to the system of Jussieu. Every specimen is labelled; the beds are divided by little hedges of box ; and a pleasing admixture of shrubs and small plants removes the appearance of formality which usually ac- companies botanic gardens. A piece of water, supplied from the Seine, is appropriated to the aquatic plants. The green and hot-houses will next attract attention. They are more than six hundred feet in length ; and although their exterior presents nothing elegant, with the exception perhaps of the principal green-house, whose front is prettily ornamented with marble vases, the beautiful collection of flowers and shrubs within cannot fail to please not only the botanist, but the un- learned visiter. Every plant is here likewise labelled ; the labels are placed in the most conspicuous situation, and changed as soon as they cea^e to be perfectly le- gible. The botanical student will here find some rare and unique specimens, the sugar-cane, and the bread tree. As the traveller passes by the amphitheatre, he will see several of the more valuable trees and shrubs ranged before it. He will particularly notice the date- palm, and two other rare species near the gate. Proceeding onwards, a path winds up an artificial as- cent, on the summit of which is a temple supported by eight pilasters, and surmounted by an armillary sphere. The greater part of Paris is here presented to the view. A person is usually in attendance, who will explain to the stranger the different edifices which he secs around him. The garden is concealed by the surrounding foliage. Half-way down the hill is the cedar of Le« 310 THE ROYAL GARDEN. banon, planted more than eighty years ago by De Jus- sieu. Although its head was lopped oft' in one of the strangely barbarous periods of the Revolution, it is yet a noble object. Near it is a marble pedestal that once supported the bust of Linnaeus ; but this, too, perished amidst the wreck of science and virtue. In every other respect the garden and plants escaped the ravages of that Vandal era. On the second occupation of Paris by the Allies, the Prussians solicited that they might bivouack in this garden. Had they accomplished their pm'pose, every interesting object would have been trodden under foot. The spirited remonstrances of the celebrated traveller Humboldt preserved the place from total destruction. The tourist may here pause, and prepare himself for an investigation of the remaining treasures of the gar- den ; for at the foot of this hill are several little caser^ nes, at which he may be supplied with fruit, eggs, milk, coffee, and tea. The menagerie will probably be next visited. The traveller returns to the enclosures near the entrance, and, following a path on the right hand, arrives at the dens in which are confined the fiercer beasts of prey. Several lions, tigers, panthers, hyenas, and wolves, amuse or terrify the spectators by their bowlings. A succession of wooden fences extends hence to the Ca- binet of Anatomy. They are arranged with consider- able taste, and many of them afford a very instructive lesson in Zoology and Botany. Where it could be accomplished, the trees and shrubs of the animals’ na- tive climes, or the vegetables in which they most delight^ flourish within their enclosimes. Several bears inhabit some sunken enclosures, and having been accustomed to confinement from their birth, appear to be reconciled to their fate, and often amuse the spectators by many clumsy feats of agility. Two camels are perfectly do- mesticated, and more than earn their subsistence by MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY. 311 turning the wheel of the m^ichine which supplies the gardens with water. The varieties of antelopes, deer, and sheep, are numerous. The aviary contains a collection of every bird known in France and the neighbouring kingdoms, arranged ac- cording to their species and habits, but does not boast of many rare specimens. Having satisfied himself with the view of almost every living production of the animal or the vegetable kingdom, the traveller will probably postpone his visit to the superb Cabinet of Natural History until another opportunity; for it would be doing injustice to this invaluable museum to hurry over its contents in one or in many days. The museum of Natural History is at the end of the garden. The building is more than 600 feet in length, and its external architecture is simple and plain. The library is first visited ; and although many of its richest treasures have been restored to their proper owners, it contains almost every publication in every language on the subject of natural history. To this subject it is limited. The manuscript figures of Aldro- vandi, and the Hortus-siccus of Haller, are no longer to be seen ; but the herbals of almost every celebrated French botanist are open to inspection. At the en- trance is a statue of BufTon, with its well-known vain- glorious and profane inscription. Five halls are occupied by an immense collection of minerals. The first room contains the earths and stones. They are arranged according to the classifi- cation of Haliy, and mostly by his own hand. Many of the calcareous spars, the gems, and the quartz crys- tals, are very beautiful. The collection appears to be complete, but similar specinAjus ai’e rather too much multiplied. 312 MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY. In the second hall are the ores, and they present a most superb display. The third apartment affords specimens of the pri- mary and secondary rocks, with every variety of French marble. In the fourth is an assemblage of peculiar interest. It is composed of the animal remains of the antedilu- vian wotld. The bones of the mammoth are perfect, and strike the beholder with astonishment. The ske- letons of numerous animals, now unknown, or extinct, are exhibited here. Cuvier arranged the innumerable specimens of this division. All parts of the world have contributed to this col- lection. Among other wonders, are the fragments of an elephant’s tusk, which when complete, must have been at least eight feet in length. Several cases are filled with the bones of the Siberian mammoth, or ele- phant, the American mammoth, or mastodonton. There is a specimen of the hair of that mammoth which was found in 1805, preserved in a block of ice on the shore of the Icy Sea, in the country of the Ton- guses in Siberia : when extricated, the dogs devoured its flesh, which must have remained in a state of com- plete preservation for a long period. After the bones of Rhinoceroses, Hippopotami, and Tapiirs, come those discovered by Cuvier in the plaster-quarries of Montmartre, and of which he has constituted several new genera of extinct quadrupeds. In the next apartment is a more pleasing collection of a similar nature, comprising the vegetable remains of former times, and particularly the impressions of ferns, leaves, and plants, procured from coal mines, and establishing the vegetable origin or connection of this fossil. A part of this hall is occupied by numerous specimens of volcanic productions, principally from Naples, Sicily, and the Lipari islands. MUSEUM OF natural HISTORY. 313 Two other apartments on this floor belong to the museum of Zoology, and contain the reptiles and the fish tribes. The latter, as in most cabinets of natural history, are not in the best state of preservation. The long gallery on the second floor is occupied by quadrupeds and bh’ds, generally preserved in a most ad- mirable manner. The collection is said to be complete ; and the only fault that can be suggested is,, that, as in the minerals, the specimens are multiplied too much. Some of the animals and a few of the birds are unique. They were introduced to the knowledge of Europeans, by Tournefort, Vaillant, and other travellers. Few animals are wanting in the series of quadrupeds and birds. Of monkeys alone there are at least two hundred specimens, and often more of a single family of birds, as of the genera Natacilla and Zanagra . — To mention here a few of the leading objects would be to go far into the field of Zoology. There are the camelopard brought from Africa by Vaillant, the bison, the lama, and the vicugna of Peru. Many specimens have been presented by the late Empress Josephine. There is a regular arrangement of the whole, which adds considerably to their interest and value. In dif- ferent parts of the gallery appear busts of Tournefort, Linnseus, Adamson, Daubenton, and Fourcroy. The only paintings are two — a lion tearing a goat, and an eagle pouncing on a lamb. The insects principally occupy large cases in the cen- tre of the gallery, where is likewise a pleasing arrange- ment of the eggs and nests of most species of birds, and a beautiful assortment of corals, and other marine productions. There is here a great want of room, and many ob- jects are too low to be seen wuth advantage. Among the insects, after the splendid papilios are glanced at, and the sphinxes, may be seen a series of the silk-worm, with their cocoons, and the caterpillars formed of wax 314 THE ROYjIL garden. SO as exactly to resemble the living animals. Near them are the gall-nuts, and woods pierced or formed by insects. Additions, illustrating the history and habits of the insect, are often procured ; thus the cun- ning formica leo, or lion-ant, is placed at the bottom of its sandy pit, down the sides of which insects are crawl- ing, unconscious of their danger. When the restitution of the treasures plundered from neighbouring countries was determined on, it was rumoured that the Allies would not only reclaim what had originally belonged to them, but complete their cabinets at the expense of what really appertained to France. An amicable arrangement, however, took place, creditable to every party. Numerous minerals, and many zoological specimens, have been taken from the Austrian dominions in Italy. When a duplicate existed in the museum of the garden, the original ar- ticle was restored; but when the restoration of the purloined mineral would render the French collection incomplete, another specimen of equal value, and of which the Austrian cabinets were not already possessed, was substituted. The Dutch collection, and especially of minerals, had materially enriched the French museum. If it had been restored in its original state, the museum of the Garden of Plants would have been rendered sadly imperfect. A friendly and equitable arrangement was here likewise effected. The greater part of the pur- loined articles were left untouched, and a collection was formed out of the private store of the duplicates of the museum, more valuable than the original ar- ticles could possibly have been. It is said that 260 quadrupeds, 800 birds, 538 reptiles, 800 fishes, and 400 shells, were given to the Dutch, not one of which w’ere drawn from the public cabinet. The traveller now proceeds to the cabinet of Com- parative Anatomy, originally founded by Daubenton, 4 ON PLANTS. 315 and newly arranged, and much increased by Cuvier. It professes to contain, or will ultimately contain, a skeleton of every known animal, with a complete set of the bones of each separated, that they may be more easily compared with those of other species. This museum is truly valuable, yet probably not much supe- rior to the private collection of an eminent surgeon in the British metropolis, (Mr. Brookes,) if he had more room scientifically and tastefully to arrange his nume- rous and well-prepared specimens. On passing through the rooms where Cuvier conti- nues his labours, the walls are covered, as in all French cabinets, with wooden and pasteboard boxes, in which he assorts and names the bones which he is constantly receiving. On the tables are the preparations on which he is immediately employed. In the first of the public rooms are the mummies and skeletons of the human species ; among the least pleas- ing sights. One Egyptian mummy, disengaged from its coffin and wrappers, is dry, dark brown, and with the thighs and arms almost exhausted of flesh. There are male and female mummies of the Guanches, the ancient inhabitants of Teneriffe, white and distorted. A mummy of the ancient Gauls is marked as having been found near Riom. Among the skeletons is that of the assassin of Gene- ral Kleber, who held for a short time the chief com- mand of the French army in Egypt. — An extensive series of human bones illustrates the diseases to which they are subject. The skeletons which follow and crowd the apartments are all clean, and comprehend the greater number of quadrupeds. Those of the ele- phant and the rhinoceros present quarries of bones; and a tall man may walk under the belly of the camel- opard without stooping. We see here, what combina- tions and forms of bones nature has employed to imite strength with activity in the tiger and tne lion, or im- E E 2 316 MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY. part swiftness to the horse and the antelope. The skeletons of birds are not so numerous as those of the quadrupeds ; there are many of the amphibia, and one of a crocodile ; there are also many skeletons of hslies. The wax preparations of fishes and shell fish follow, constructed with the nicest art, and displaying the true colours and position of animals, which it is impossible to preserve. The anatomy of the Chiton, for example, is fine. Snails in wax are attached to real shells, and caterpillars to leaves and branches of trees. In one case the anatomy of an egg is displayed in 24 prepara- tions, from the appearance of the first speck of life, to the chicken bursting from its shell. In the last room are the foeti and monsters. The wax preparations here are of the greatest beauty, and on a large scale ; they embrace all parts of the human system, so that one may form ideas of anatomy, without the disgust that attends dissections. The most elegant additions are present ; a child reclines on a silken couch, a lady and child are placed on an ornamented sofa, so as to give this science all the attractions of which it is perhaps susceptible. To this succeeds a cabinet of human anatomy, re- sembling other cabinets of this nature, but probably unequalled in the number of the specimens, the skilful- iiess of their preparation, and the beauty of the wax models. The Museum and the Library are open to the public on Tuesday and Friday, from three o’clock until night during the autumn, and from four o’clock until seven during spring and summer. The garden and the Menagerie are open on Sunday, Tuesday, and Friday from two o’clock until seven in summer, and from two to four in winter. Public lectures are delivered in the Amphitheatre on every subject connected with this splendid institution. M. Laugier lectures on general chemistr}^ three times # CABINET OF MINERALOGY. SI 7 every week, at nine o’clock. Lagrange, on pharma- ceutical' chemistry ; and Vaiiquelin, on its application to the arts and manufactures. Desfontaines lectures on botany at seven; De Jussieu makes botanical excur- sions at eight. St. Hilaire lectures on the mammalia, and on birds ; Lacepede, on reptiles and fishes ; and Delamark, on the invertebral animals. Haiiy lectures, at ten, on mineralogy. These lectures are perfectly open, and are usually well attended. Cabinet de VEcole des Mmes, Cabinet of the School of Mineralogy. [Hotel des Monnaies.] This institution is situated in the principal court of the Mint, on the side nearest the quay. It was begun in 1778, with the collection of the famous chemist, Le Sage, who spent forty-three years in this particular pursuit. The centre of the cabinet contains an amphi- theatre capable of receiving 200 persons. Large cases with glass doors enclose specimens of all the minerals, scientifically arranged. Four other cases, placed in compartments between the pillars, display various mo- dels of curious machines. One of the cabinets encloses the analysis of every specimen. Upon the first landing- place of the staircase conducting to the gallery, is a bust of Monsieur Le Sage, which was consecrated by the gratitude of his pupils. This gallery is surrounded with cases containing specimens of minerals, far too numerous to be placed in due order after those which are ranged in the lower cabinets. The cupola, which rises above, is finely enriched with painted pannels, and decorated with gilding. The interior of this museum is 45 feet long, 38 feet wide, and 40 feet in height; LEO 318 MUSEUM OF MONUMENTS. This splendid museum was untouched l)y the Allies. The collection of medals, one of the most perfect that France contained, has been removed to the Royal Li- brary. A few specimens, however, yet remain. It is open to public inspection every day, except Sunday, from ten till tv/o o’clock ; and public lectures are delivered during five months, on Monday, Wednes- day, and Friday^ at noon, beginning in November. Musee des Monumens 'Frangais. Museum of French Monuments. [Rue Petits Augustins.] This museum dates its origin from the year 1790, when, under the Constituent Assembly, the property of the church being confiscated for the use of the nation, many curious specimens of ancient art, which acci- dentally escaped from indiscriminate ruin, were depo- sited in the convent of the Augustins. Mons. Le Noir was principally active in collecting and preserving every relic of antiquity ; and at length procuring the sanction and protection of the government, he completed this interesting museum. Its exterior has a mean appearance. The gateway seems to belong to an hotel of the most inferior descrip- tion. It admits into a court surrounded by antique buildings, tastefully ornamented with the fragments of many a religious edifice, that perisjied in the barbarous era of the Revolution. The arrangement has been universally applauded. The different pieces of sculpture are classed according to their respective ages, thus giving a pleasing view of the progress of the art, and illustrating the successive periods of French historj'. MUSEUM OF •MONUMiN'rS. S19 The monuments are distributed in different apart- ments, each numbered at the entrance, and containing the relics of a century. The eye of a stranger is first arrested by the moulder- ing altars of the ancient Gauls, — altars probably stained with human blood. Passing over many of the rude vestiges of early times, he dwells with enthusiasm on the tomb of Clovis. He beholds that prince again humbling himself before the throne of the Eternal, and supplicating pardon for the atrocities which he had committed. He pauses on the remains of the- cruel Chilperic ; his attention is rivetted on the monument of the murderess Fredegonde, till he is roused by the martial air and menacing attitude of the illustrious Charlemagne, who, with brandished sword, appears to be dictating laws to the world. On these relics of re- mote ages time has committed many ravages; but, vdth all their mutilations, they are interesting to the historian and the artist. An anachronism, not pleasing to the eye of taste, is admitted here, on account of its supposed effect. The beautiful mausoleums of Francis I., and Diana of Poic- tiers, equally versed in the mysteries of politics and love, form a striking contrast with the rude eflbrts of earlier ages. The statue of Corneille likewise occupies a place in this hall, with many other exquisite pieces of sculpture. The apartment dedicated to the tliirteenth century cov, tains not much worthy of attention. We observe the tombs of Louis IX., his son Philippe, his wife Isa- bella of Arragon, and his brother Charles ; but the art of sculpture has made little progress. With the apartment containing the relics of the four- teenth century are found the effigies of Philippe le Bel and of John. The middle of the hall is enriched by the statue of Charles V., surnamed the Wise, the noble Du Guesclin, and his friend Sancere. In the hail of the fiftieeiilh century we perceive the 320 MUSEUM OF MONUMENTS. dawn of that light and elegant architecture which dis- tinguishes modern times. The monuments, which are there preserved, interest by their number, and by the names with which they are connected. The connois- seur first pauses at the tombs of Louis d’Orleans, and his brother Charles the Poet. After which appear Renee d’Orleans, grandson of the intrepid Dunois, and Philippe de Comines, the father of modern history. The statue of Louis XL is placed near that of his son Charles VII. ; and, not far distant, the heroic and un- fortunate Joan of Arc stands by the side of Isabel of Bavaria. In the centre of this group the superb tomb of Louis XII. in the form of a Gothic chapel, is one of the noblest specimens of the improved taste of the 15th century. His recumbent figure, characteristic of death, reminds the spectator of that melancholy hour, when thousands of his weeping subjects, following his remains to St. Denis, exclaimed, “ Our good monarch Louis XII . is dead. In him we have lost our father and our friend.” The hall of the sixteenth century contains the sta- tues of Francis I. and Claude his queen, the good Henry, the brave Coligny, the witty, but immoral, Rabelais, the sage I’Hopital, the unprincipled Catherine de Medicis, and many others. Some painted glass, representing the history of Psyche, although beautifully executed, does not quite accord with the solemnity of the place. Entering the hall appropriated to the seventeenth century, the stranger is bev/iidered amid the crowd of philosophers and heroes which present themselves to his view. Fie contemplates the form of Richelieu rest- ing in the arms of Wisdom, Turenne reposing in those of Immortality, and Mazarino suppliant at the throne of Heaven. The names of Corneille, Moliere, La Fontaine, Racine, Feneion, Pascal, and Boilcau, fill him with pleasing veneration. In the centre of the hall is MUSEUM OF MONUMENTS. S21 placed the exquisitely finished statue of Louis XIV., rendered still more sublime by the immortal geniuses which surround him. The tombs of Le Brim, the French Apelles ; Poussin, the painter of philosophers and poets; Colbert, the profound financier ; Descartes, the antagonist of Newton; De Thou, the philosophical historian; Bossuet, the eloquent preacher; Coysevox, the inimitable statuary ; and Lenostre, to whom the most beautiful gardens of France owe all their elegance, will not be overlooked. The eighteenth century presents us with the illustri ous names of Voltaire, Crebillon, Montesquieu, Rous- seau, Maupertuis, Coustou, Lepautre, Saxe, Ilelvetius, Fontenelle, Butfon, and D’Alembert. The remarkable difference in the design and execution of the monuments of Maupertius, Caylus, and the Marechal d’Harcourt, and those which decorate the extremity of the hall, shows the rapid progress of the art during the last century. The garden is converted into a kind of Elysium, where, shaded by the cypress and the willow, repose the ashes of Moliere, La Fontaine, Boileau, Descartes, Massillon, and Montfaucon ; the warrior Dc Guesciin, and the monarch Dagobert. In a small sepulchral edi- fice, constructed wdth materials from the very mauso- leum which enshrined them, were deposited the bones of Abelard and Eloisa ; but they have been removed to the cemetery of Pere la Chaise. This museum is open to the public from ten till four on Sunday, and from ten till two, on Thursday, in sum- mer ; and from eleven till three on Sunday, and eleven till two on Thursday, in winter. Strangers have free access every day, on producing their passports. This museum, containing no predatory acquisitions, was not disturbed by the Allies. 322 THE king’s museum. Musee Hoy ale. The Royal Museum. [At the Louvre.]. The Louvre, In its present state, consists of one thou- sand one hundred and four pictures ; and the gallery of sculpture consists of three hundred and fifty-five fine specimens of the art, with various degrees of merit. This museum was lately the boast of Paris, and the wonder of the world. It contained almost every cele- brated work of art that the continent of Europe pos- sessed, and might be considered as a magnificent temple, to which every votary of taste would resort, and offer his adorations. The establishment was founded on injustice, and en- riched by spoliation : it has therefore felt the hand of retribution, and has been shorn of its principal glory. The imperishable remains of the genius of former ages, which it contained, have been restored to their rightful owners ; the halls of sculpture, which were thronged to confusion with the chef-d’ oeuvres of Rome and of Greece, are nearly deserted ; and the twelve hundred inimitable pamt^gg, of the great gallery were reduced to little more than two hundred and fifty. The}^ have noww’ecovered the walls of the Louvre with a fine col- lection of pictures from the Luxembourg, Versailles, and other royal residences, and partly from private col- lections. The catalogue also consists of paintings and specimens of foreign sculpture. Let not, however, the traveller suppose that the Louvre is despoiled of every object of attraction. Many of the treasures of foreign states, indeed, of which they once boasted, are seen no more; but the paintings which adorned the numerous churches that were pro- faned by revolutionary barbarism, have found an asylum THE king’s museum. S23 here, and every department of France has lately con- tributed something to render the gallery of the Louvre an interesting and valuable museum. The works of the noblest masters of the present French school all remain ; and, in addition to them, the amateur may yet study some of the most exquisite performances of Albano, Berghem, Caracci, Champagne, Corregio, Cortona, Cuyp, Del Sarto, Dominicliino, Guercino, Guido, Murillo, Raphael, Rembrandt, Ro- mano, Rubens, Ruysdael, Salvator, Snyders, Teniers, Tintoret, Titian, Vandyck, Paul Veronese, and Leo- nardo da Vinci. The first saloon presents a curious collection of the very earliest works of the French and Italian artists. The conception is sometimes strong, but the execution is strangely rude ; yet these pieces are valuable, as shewing the commencement of the art. The next saloon contains the deservedly celebrated ' battle pieces of Le Brim. They are some of the no- blest performances of that excellent painter. The traveller now enters the great gallery. It is' impossible to convey an adequate idea of the effect for- merly produced on the mind, on entering this magni- ficent apartment, 1,400 feet in length, and crowded by 1,200 paintings of the most eminent masters of evei*y school. The apparently interminable lengths of the gallery continues to excite surprise, and the skilful arrangements of the paintings that remainedj and of many others that have been added to them, certainly do not convey that feeling of nakedness and desolation which the stranger might expect, and which some tra- vellers have described. Although the gallery has irre- parably sufiered in value, it has not lost so much as might be imagined in appearance. It must, however, be confessed, that the place is not altogether suitable to the purpose to which it is de- voted. The light being admitted on both sides of the' THE king’s museum. 3 ^ 4 < gallery renders it difficult to find the proper situation to examine some of the performances, and concealing all the nicer touches, displays nothing but the varnish of others. Among the performances of Le Brim, the traveller will notice that in which the wife of Darius presents her son to Alexander, the moving expression of her countenance, and the confusion marked on that of Sysigambis, who had mistaken Hephestion for the mo- narch, are admirable. The defeat of Porus, by the same artist, is in a dif- ferent style, and is justly considered to be his chef- d’oeuvre. The works of Nicolas Poussin were not eclipsed amidst the constellation of excellence by which they were surrounded; they are now brought into more prominent notice, and will not fail to please. The Israelites gathering Manna in the Desert is deserving of considerable praise ; and the Sketch of the Rape of the Sabines will not be viewed without interest. The Judgment of Solomon will be deemed a yet more ex- cellent performance; the fine expression of the face of the monarch is very striking. Superior to this is the Ins|;itution of the Eucharist ; and the Deluge breathes the truest sublimity. Th'e-dark broad character of most of the paintings of Valentine will please the instructed alone; but, in his Concert, the varied and striking expression of the per- formers, and the strong character of the soldier in the fore-ground, will make a deep impression on every spectator. Philip de Champagne was one of the greatest orna- ments of the Flemish school. Among the paintings which adorn this gallery, three will not pass unnoticed. The Institution of the Eucharist is one of his best works. The Apostles are said to be portraits of the anchorets of the Port Royal. The immense picture of THE king’s MUSEUlVf. 525 St. Ambrose is equally deemed by the connoisseur and the uninitiated, one of the noblest ornaments of the gallery. Its companion, representing the same Saint removing the bodies of the martyrs Gervais and Pro- tasius, is scarcely inferior. The figure and countenance of the lunatic possess all the wildness of his supposed character. Some paintings of Rubens display all that artist’s excellencies, with a less than usual portion of his cha- racteristic defects. His Diogenes looking for an ho- nest man, and his Thomyris with the head of Cyrus, are his best. The organization of the figures is per- fect, with less want of taste, or perhaps a nearer ap- proach to good taste, than Rubens often displayed. Of the performances of Ruysdael, his Tempest will be acknowledged to be the best. It is truly grand. Berghem has very few pieces remaining, but the gal- lery yet boasts of his chef -(V oeuvre. It is a landscape diversified with masses of trees and rocks. The road presents several travellers and cattle. A woman on horseback, to whom another female is presenting an infant, is admirably executed. Among the excellent portraits of Vandyke, or Van- dyck, that of Charles I. will be particularly distin- guished. The most perfect work of Snyders is to be seen here. It represents different kinds of fruit and vegetables, with some squirrels, an ape, and a parrot. The Italian school, lately so numerous, contains only a few specimens ; but they are inestimable. The St. Jerome and St. Agnes, of Dominichino, are no more seen ; but the JEneas, accompanied by his son Asca- nius, bearing on his shoulders his father Anchises, will give a sufficient idea of the talents of this great master. The Adoration of tlie Shepherds by Espagnoletto, is in his best style. Guido, whose works are yet as glow- ing and fresh as when they received the last touches of 326 THE king’s museum. the artist, continues to enrich the museum with seve- ral admirable works. The Rape of Helen displays all his grace and expression : but his Hercules contending with Achelous, and killing the Centaur Nessus, surpass all praise. The Loves of Venus and Adonis, by Albano, are exquisitel}’ beautiful, particularly the first piece, which represents Venus contemplating herself in a mir- ror. Annibal Carracci furnishes a painting of hunting and shooting, not inferior to his best works. Paul Veronese contributes his noblest performance, the ce- lebrated marriage at Cana. The Saviour is seated in the centre of an immense table, and at his side the Ploly Virgin, who, having just pronounced the words, “ There is no wine,” is eagerly listening to hear the orders which he may give. On either side are the newly-married couple, who, as well as the numerous ■ guests, are portraits of the great personages of the painter’s time. A large group of musicians displaj^s the portraits of all the celebrated artists of Venice. Paul Veronese himself appears habited in white, and playing i on the violoncello. In the back ground is a great bal- cony ; while the distance is ornamented with colon- • nades and palaces, whence a crowd of persons are seen -observing the feast. The Witch of Endor raising the ghost of Samuel has .all the grandeur and sublimity of Salvator Rosa. The , Antiope, with Jupiter in the form of a Satyr, contains all that sweetness of expression, that refined beauty of the female form, and harmony of colouring peculiar to Correggio. The Jesus on the knees of St. Ann, and the : Jesus supported by an angel, are pleasing efforts of the • pencil of Leonardo-da-Vinci. Titian has many portraits . with all his peculiar colouring ; his Disciples at Einmaus is . a splendid performance ; but his Entombment of Christ is without a rival. The divine Raphael has two works remaining in the gallery ; it is said that more will be added from other collections. The St. Michael van- THE king’s museum. ?> T1 quishing Satan will perhaps make no great impression.' It was not the happiest of Raphael’s productions, and it has been defaced by the profane daubings, vulgarly called repairs, of modern artists ; but the Holy Family, although stippled, scrubbed, and mutilated, at once proclaims its author, and the more diligently it is stu- died, appears more worthy of his genius. The fond affection of the Virgin, who is extending her arms to receive the infant Jesus, and the softened veneration of Elizabeth, are admirably pourtrayed. It would be impossible to enter into a description of the numerous pictures : we must refer the reader to the Catalogue, which has been translated into English. The noblest productions of ancient sculpture crowd-, ed the halls of the ground-floor ; but the restitution of every work to which the French could plead no better right than that of war, robbed the Gallery of An- tiques” of almost every valuable specimen, and left it desolate and naked. It has received wonderful acces- sions. The statues are now re-arranged, and the French have filled the sad and dreary void with the best works that other collections can spare, and with models of many of those transcendant pieces, which are now lost to them for ever. The entrance into the halls which formed the Gal- lery of Antiques is on the left of the stairs leading to the gallery of paintings. They are eight in number, each bearing an appropriate name. First is the vestibule; its ceiling, painted by Bar- thelemy, represents the origin of sculpture, when the first statue was fashioned by Prometheus. The four medallions allude to the four principal schools of sculpture, Egypt, Greece, Italy, and France. The bas-relief over the entrance describes the Genius- of Art ; and that over the portal, leading to the first hall, the union of the three branches of design. Next to this is the Hall of the Emperors, whose 1 F 2 328 THE king’s museum. ceiling is painted by Meynier;, and represents the Earth receiving from the Emperors a code of law, dictated by Nature, Wisdom, and Justice. In two tablets of bronze, by the same artist, Trajan is seen planning the Roman roads, and erecting the aqueducts. The bas-reliefs at the angles are the Eridanus, the Tiber, the Nile, and the Rhine. This hall once contained the Minerva of Villetri, the Antinoiis, and Hercules, and the beautiful Tomb of the Muses. The ceiling of the Hall of the Seasons was painted by Romanelli, and contains the history of Apollo and Diana. Here was the celebrated Indian Bacchus, the Venus coming from the Bath, and the Ariadne, sur- named the Cleopatra. The Hall of Peace is decorated by eight antique pil- lars of granite, which formerly enriched the nave of the church of Aix-la-Chapelle, They were claimed by the Prussians ; but it was found that they could not be taken down without serious injury, and some statues were given in exchange. The three allegorical paint- ings depict the Arts, Peace, and Commerce. Here were the exquisite statues of Zeno, Demosthenes, Trajan, Phocion, Menander, and Posidippus. The ceiling of the HaU of the Romans is painted by Romanelli, and exhibits History and Poetry celebrat- ing the successes of Bellona. Foim other paintings re- present the deputies of the senate offering the purple to Cincinnatus ; the Rape of the Sabines ; the courage, of Mutius Scagvola: and the Continence of Scipio. This hall contained many rare specimens of the antique. Among them were the Germanicus, the Ceres, the Marcus Junius Brutus, and Lucius Junius Brutus, the expiring Gladiator, the Antinoiis of the Capitol, the spotted Faun, the Tiberius, and the fragment of the colossal statue of Hercules. The next apartment was called the Hall of the Lao- coon, but now the Hall of the Centaur. Its ceiling THE king’s museum. 329 contained the French Hercules conquering the fury of Party; the Arts celebrating the Victories of France; Study and Fame ; and a Group of Genii. It is here that the traveller perceives the full extent of the retri- bution with which France has been visited. The ini- mitable and affecting Laocoon, the fascinating Venus de Medicis, the finely-modelled Gincinnatus, the ma- jestic Jupiter, the spirited Meleager, the exquisite Cupid and Psyche, and the much-admired figure of the Youth extracting a thorn from his foot, are no longer to be seen. Four columns of red oriental granite, taken from the tomb of Charlemagne, adorn the Hall of Apollo. The Belvidere Apollo, the sublimest sculpture that has escaped the ravages of time, once occupied a conspicu- ous place in this hall. It was surrounded by the JBel- videre Antinoiis, the Antinoiis of Egypt, the Ariadne of the Capitol, the Nurse of Bacchus, the Commodus Hercules, the Capitoline Juno, the Alexander Seve- rus, the Alexander of the Capitol, the two Sphinxes, and the beautiful Candelabra. The ceiling of the Hall of Diana rejiresents her im- ploring Jupiter to permit her to repikin among the number of the virgin goddesses. It is the performance of Prodhon. The surrounding paintings describe dif- ferent events in the life of that deity. There is also the Hall of the Candelabra, the Hall of the Tiber, Hall of the Gladiator, Hall of Pallas, Hall of Melpo- mene, Hall of Isis, and the Hall of the Caryatides. Every work of art was swept from this beautifiil hall. They have been replaced by a great variety of new subjects. This museum is open to the public on Saturday and Sunday, from ten o’clock until four ; but students and foreigners are daily admitted, on producing their pass- ports. 330 CONSERVATORY OF ARTS. An exhibition of the productions of living artists takes place every two years in the grand saloon. Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers. Conser- vatory of Arts and Machines. [Abbey of St. Martin, in St. Martin Stree\] Few museums are more interesting, none more in- structive or valuable, than this. It is an immense col- lection of all the machines invented by French genius and industry, in every kind of manufactory, and every branch of art. It is a collection peculiar and highly creditable to the metropolis of France, and cannot fail of being productive of the most beneficial eftects. It undoubtedly has diffused through France a knowledge of mechanics, and a skilful adaptation of the simplest implements to the most complicated pur- poses, unknown in every neighbouring country: but the peculiar character of the French has confined this to trifling and almost contemptible objects, to mere toys and gewgaws, while those higher branches of the arts, which are connected with the support and comfort of human life, have been comparatively neg- lected. The first apartment of this spacious conservatory contains specimens of spinning-jennies, and wheels, and carding-mills, employed in the manufacture of cotton thread. They are simple and ingenious ; But valuable improvements on them have been recently in- troduced into the British manufactories. The second apartment is chiefly filled with the in- ventions of Vaucanson, the prince of French me- chanics. The traveller will particularly notice the enormous machine for spinning cotton. It was much CONSERVATORY OF ARTS. S31 celebrated at its first invention, but the English and German artists have simplified its construction. A more pleasing, but not equally striking object, is the machine for unravelling the web of the silk-worm. Various looms for weaving tapestry and embroidery on stuffs and silks are likewise exhibited. The in- habitants of Lyons having treated some of these inven- tions with undeserved neglect, Vaucanson attached an ass to one of the looms, who executed a piece of tapes- try infinitely superior to any thing which the most skil- ful Lyonese manufactures could produce. A pattern of it is shewn here. In the cases that surround the room are specimens of different kinds of wheels, and instruments of wrought and cast iron, principally connected with these ma- chines. The hall which is next entered is of a different de- scription. It is devoted to improvements in architec- tiure, and contains models of public and private build- ings of every description, beautifully executed in wood and ivory. The stranger is next introduced into the church of the ancient priory. It is principally filled with hydrau- lic machines. Among them is the ingenious and simple contrivance of Montgolfier, to raise water, commonly called his Ram. Different kinds of fire-engines are next in succession, with some interesting models of fire- ladders and fire-escapes. Numerous mills and ploughs fill the remaining part of the church ; but the improve- ments which the English have made in the latter, have left the boasted agriculture of France far behind. In another part of the museum is a greater variety of ploughs. The traveller is next shewn models of every vessel of earthen or stone ware, as appropriated to economical or culinary purposes. To these succeed an infinite VfU'ietv of lamps, of every form and principle. That 332 CONSERVATORY OF ARTS. which is known in London by the name of the hydro- static lamp was copied from one preserved here. In another lamp the oil is curiously raised clock-work. The shades of the lamps of many different materials, and of an endless variety of patterns, will amuse and please. The embellishments on some of them are exe- cuted with inimitable taste and elegance. The steam-engines next succeed; but the English- man who has seen the grand improvements of Watt and Bolton, will scarcely deem them worth his notice. Numerous syphons, and contrivances for decanting liquors, are ingenious. The implements of agriculture are now once more brought under review. A great variety of ploughs, harrows, clumsy threshing and winnowing machines, and wine-presses, offer themselves in long succession, interspersed with models of pales, fences, gates, &c. &c. The next division possesses considerable interest. It is a long range of grates, stoves, chimneys, and furnaces of various constructions, and on almost every principle. New improvements have, however, superseded the greater part of them. A handsome staircase conducts to numerous apart- ments above. The first object which presents itself is an immense model of the machine of Marli. To this succeeds a long range of models, superior in interest to any thing which the traveller has yet seen. It is a display of every kind of art and manufactiue. Small houses, resembling the buildings in which the manufac- tures are usually carried on, are open in front, and exhibit in their different apartments the various imple- ments and machines employed in each and every stage of the business, from the fii'st operation on the rough material, to its transformation into some elegant or useful article. Nothing can be conceived more pleasing, instructive, and useful than this. No young person should visit Paris without devoting one or two morn- CONSERVATORY OF ARTS. 333 ings to the Conservatory, and especially to this division of it. From the most complicated and important ma- nufactory, to the shop of the carpenter, and the forge of the blacksmith, every thing is perfect ; not the most insignificant tool is omitted, nor one process forgotten. Having satisfied his curiosity here, if indeed one or many visits can satisfy it, the stranger is conducted to the models of telegraphs, pile-engines, waggons, carts, carriages of every kind, windlasses, and boats. ^ext follow specimens of china, earthenware, and glass ; numerous varieties of paper, coloured, stamped, or beautifully cut ; types, letters, ornaments for print- ing and book-binding; contrivances for remedying deficiencies or distortions in the human shape ; arti- ficial legs, arms, and eyes ; more cotton and silk ma- chines, with a superb and matchless assortment of ribands and silks, not interesting merely to the female visiter, but a pleasing object to every eye; fans of mother-of-pearl and steel ; models to facilitate the study of perspective; models of pulpits, objects of much importance in every French religious edifice; balances of every description; turning lathes, with exquisite specimens of their effects; thermometers, barometers, magnets, and bronze ornaments ; watches, chronometers, and clocks of every construction. One clock is much admired; it sets in motion an organ, and has on its top an armillary sphere, with a small orrery in the centre, beautifully displaying the motions of every planet. Every Frenchman is compelled to deposit in this museum a model of all the instruments or machines which he may invent or improve, with a detailed ac- count of their construction and use, and the whole process of the manufactories in which they are em- ployed. In one of the halls is a superb library, containing every publication, in every language, on the different subjects connected with this excellent institution. 334* museum of artillery. To render the, establishment yet more useful, lec- tures are delivered by the ablest professors, on geome- try and natural philosophy, as applied to the arts and construction of machines, and the processes of differ- ent manufactures. These lectures, however, are con- fined to pupils, who are recommended by the minister of the interior. The Conservatory is open to the public on Sunday and Thursday, from ten to four ; but foreigners are admitted every day, except Friday and Saturday, on producing their passports. The Conservatory was religiously respected during the occupation of Paris by the Allies. Musee Artillerie . Museum of Artillery. [Rue de fUniversit^, No. 13.] This is the depot of every machine invented for the destruction of human beings. It likewise contains a valuable collection of the different kinds of armour used in every period of French history. Among them is the complete armour of Joan of Arc, Godfrey de Bouillon, Francis I., Louis XL, Henry IV., and Louis XIV. Admittance may be obtained on Sunday from eleven until two, by written application to the director. Depot of the Models in fortified Toms, At the Hospital of the Invalids is preserved a beau- tiful collection of models of all the fortified towns in France. They are said to be accurately, and are cer- tainly very elegantly, constructed, and give a bird’s-eye view of the town, and the fortifications by which it is CABIN IvT OF PHYSIOLOGY. 335 surrounded. Some of the seaports are peculiarly strik- ing. This museum has suffered from the fortune of war. The Prussians have taken from it the models of all the towns situated on their frontiers. Admission to this depot is not at all times easily ob- tained. A particular recommendation from some of the ministers, or some person in authority, is necessary. Cabinet d'Histoh'e Naturelle. Cabinet of Natural History. [In Paon St. Victor Street.] This is the finest private cabinet of natural history which is known to exist. It may be considered as an excellent abridgment of the Museum of Natural His- tory in the Garden of Plants. It is equally rich in the productions of the three kingdoms of Nature. The specimens of cornelians, agates, and jaspers, are particularly splendid. Some of the shells are unique, and undescribed. The sportive paintings of Nature on some of the minerals are extremely curious. A little Negro is shewn delineated on an agate, an exact profile of Louis XVI., and the eruption of a volcano. This cabinet likewise contains many vases, medallions, and other choice remains of antiquity. It is open every day; the price of admission is one franc. Cabinet de Fhisiologie de M. Bertrand, Cabinet of Physiology. [Rue d’Aniboise.] This cabinet will not be overlooked by the medical 336 CABINET OF PHYSIOLOGY. or scientific traveller. It contains models in wax, beau- tifully and accurately executed, of every part of the human body, both in its healthy and morbid state. It is open from nine till six : price of admission two francs forty cents. At No. 17 , Rue de X-ille, is a very interesting pri- ^ vate collection of paintings of the twelfth and two following centuries. There exists no other of the kind even in Italy. After having admired the noblest productions of modern times in the splendid gallery of the Louvre, it is pleasing to contemplate here the first essays of the infancy of the art. The connoisseur will perceive in many of these paintings a brilliancy of co- lour, a force of expression, and a delicacy of touch, which he did not expect. The proprietor has great pleasure in exhibiting the beauties of his gallery to the curious stranger. S37 PUBLIC LIBRARIES. Extensive and valuable collections of books are attached to almost every public institution and every public building in Paris. Access to them is easily ob- tained by the inhabitants of Paris, and every facility is afforded to the traveller. Bihliotheqiie Boyal. The Royal Library. [Rue Richelieu, No. 58.] The exterior of this edifice is exceedingly plain, and gives no indication of the treasures that it contains. Neither the windows nor the principal entrance have the least ornament. An archway admits to a court, .500 feet in length, and entirely surrounded by build- ings, the architectm’e of which is uniform, simple, and elegant. The Royal Library dates its origin from a veiy early period. King John collected ten volumes; six on sci- ence and history, and four on religion. To them, his son Charles V., surnamed the Wise, added more than nine hundred volumes. These constituted a library which, at that age, might justly be deemed worthy of the royal collector. It was deposited in a tower of the Louvre, called la Tour de la Lihraire^ the Library Tower. The apartment was illumined at night by thirty small chandeliers and a silver lamp, that the student might pursue his researches at every hour. It appears to have been afterwards neglected, and almost de- G G 53S THE ROYAL LIBRARY. stfoyed; for, when it was purchased by the Duke of Bedford, for 1,200 livres, in 1429, it was found to con- tain but 1 50 volumes. Louis Xl. collected the scattered remains of this library, and replaced them in the tower. The art of printing, which was now discovered, enabled him greatly to enlarge it. Charles VIII. con- tributed what the conquest of Naples enabled him to collect ; Louis XII. added to it the library of Petrarch ; Francis I. enriched it with numerous Greek MSS.; and Henry II. secured its progressive and rapid increase by the decree which compelled the booksellers to present the royal libraries with a copy on vellum of every work which they published. Colbert augmented it with more than 60,000 volumes. Cardinal Fleury sent many literati, at an enormous expense, to the Greek islands and Asiatic continent, who brought home nu- merous curious and invaluable morsels of antiquity. It was, however, under the reigns bf Louis XIV., XV., and XVI., that it attained that degree of splendour and magnificence which renders it the first library in Europe. The ground-floor is appropriated to the printed books, of which there are 360,000. Tables are placed in different parts of the room for the accommodation of visiters, who may call for what- ever books they please, and before whom the scarcest prints, the rarest medals, the most valuable manuscripts, are unhesitatingly placed at the first requisition. Busts of the most celebrated French literati occupy several niches. In one of the rooms is a curious model of the Py- ramids and the Sphinx, accurately preserving their pro- portions, and ornamented by a well-executed grove of palms, with a caravan of travellers. On the second floor, to the right, is the French Par- .nassus, by Titon du Tillet. It represents a little THE ROYAL LIBRARY; 3S9 mountain, covered with bronze figures of the most ce- lebrated poets and musicians of France. Louis XIV. appears under the figure of Apollo. This floor contains the MSS., of which there are 80,000. Thirty thousand of these relate to the his- tory of France, principally subsequent to the reign of Louis XI. Twenty-five thousand are in learned and foreign languages. Several letters of Henry VIII. are here preserved, and letters from Henry IV. of France to one of his favourites, Gabrielle d’Estrees. The manuscripts found by Denon in the mummies of the catacombs at Thebes will not be forgotten by the traveller; nor the celebrated tablet of Isis, in- crusted with silver, and filled with undeciphered Egyptian hieroglyphics ; the MS. of Telemachus, in the hand-writing of Fenelon ; and Memoirs of Louis XIV. by the same excellent author. The libraries of the Vatican, at Rome, and St. Marc, at Venice, lately enriched this collection with many in- valuable MSS. ; but these, with all the revolutionary spoils, have been restored to their rightful owners. The inestimable MS. of the history of Josephus, on papyrus ; Petrarch’s MS. of Virgil, with numerous notes in his own writing ; the MS. of Galileo on the tides ; > the mathematical tables of Haller, with correc- tions by himself : all the ancient and rare editions of the Vatican, the Ambrosian library, and that of the university of Pavia, are now lost to the visiter. Among other curiosities contained in this apartment, is an ibis, brought from Thebes, the plumage of which is fresh and perfect, although three thousand years have passed since it was first enclosed in its case. The sil- ver shield, attributed to Scipio and Hannibal, are seen here, with the brazen chair of king Dagobert, and the heart of Anne of Britanny, enclosed in a golden vase. On this floor are likewise five great rooms, con-» G (i 2 340 THE ROYAL LIBRARY. taining the genealogies of every noble French family. These fill 5,000 portfolios. On the same floor is the Cabinet of Medals, which well deserves the attention of the curious. The voy- ages of Dumonceau and Le Vaillant were principally undertaken to complete this superb cabinet. Le Vail- iant, zealous to execute his commission, swallowed twenty medals of gold, to preserve them from the Al- gerines, into whose power he had fallen. Three ad- mirable paintings, by Notaire, adorn this apartment, representing Thalia, Calliope, and Terpsichore. There are also three beautiful productions of Carlo Vanloo. — Psyche conducted by Hymen, the Inventress of the Flute, and the three Patrons of the Muses. On the third floor is the Cabinet of Antiquities, con- taining busts, vases, inscriptions, and instruments of sacrifice, collected by the celebrated Caylus. Near this are two apartments, containing Etruscan vases, bathing vessels of porphyry, and many fine spe- cimens of ancient art. The Repository of Engravings comprises 5,000 vo- lumes, divided into twelve classes. The first contains sculpture, architecture, and the portraits of engravers ; the second, emblematical and devotional subjects; the third, Greek and Roman antiquities, with fabulous and mythological subjects ; the fourth, medals, coins, and Jaeraldry ; the fifth, public processions, banquets, and tournaments; the sixth, natural philosophy and the mathematics ; the seventh, romantic and ludicrous sub- jects ; the eighth, natural history ; the ninth, geogra- phy; the tenth, plans and elevations of ancient and modern buildings ; the eleventh, portraits to the num- ber of 50 , 000 , among which is included every cele- brated character who has flourished in any country during the last 600 years ; the twelfth, represents the costume, manners, and amusements of every region oC THE CITY LIBRARY. 341 the habitable globe. It comprises a very extensive and complete history of the costume and manners of the French from the era of Christ to the present period. Most of these engravings are coloured, and are copies from ancient windows, tapestry, and monuments. In another part of the building are two large globes, thirty feet in diameter. They were constructed by Coronelli, in 1682, are accurately delineated, and sup- posed to be the largest extant. The index of the ho- rary circle is a yard in length. The librarians are MM. Capperonnier and Van Praet, for the printed books ; Langles, for the oriental manuscripts ; La Porte du Thiel, for Latin and Greek ; Dacier, modern languages; Miller and Gosselin, for the medals, and Joly, for the engravings. Lectures are delivered here by M. Langles on the Persian and Malay languages, every Monday, Wednes- day, and Saturday, at two o’clock ; on Arabic, by the Baron de Sacy, on Tuesday and Thursday, at half past one ; on Turkish, by Jaubert, on Thursday, at half past three, and on Tuesday and Friday, at eleven; and on Armenian, by M. Arbied, on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at six. The Library is open on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, from ten o’clock until two. To students and foreigners it is open every day, except during a vacation of six weeks, commencing on the &st of September. La Bibliotheque de la Ville, The City Library. [Rue St. Antoine, No. 110.] This library is principally devoted to- botany. It 34<2 LIBRARY OF THE ARSENAL. contains every splendid work on that subject, and nit- merous accurate and beautiful drawings of plants. It is open every day, except Thursday and Sunday, from ten until two o’clock. The ceiling, painted by Gerardini, is universally admired. M. Rolle is the principal librai'ian. Bibliotheque de V Arsenal, Library of the Arsenal. [In the Square of the Veterans, at the Entrance of the Quay of the Celestins.] This magnificent collection was purchased by the Count d’Artois, from the celebrated Paulmy d’Argen- son. It now forms part of the library of the Peers.. It contains 75,000 printed volumes, and 6,000 MSS. Many of the missals are beautifully illuminated on vellum. The brilliancy of the colours almost compen- sates for the tameness of design and poverty of ex- pression. This library contains a magnificent collection of works on the military art : but it is not confined to them ; it is rich in general history, foreign literature, and Italian poetry. When the Prussians arrived in Paris, on their se cond expedition, they appeared to be disposed to de- spoil this library of its most valuable works. M. Tre- neuil, the librarian, and even the French minister of the interior, interfered in vain ; but the energetic re- monstrances of the celebrated Humboldt preserved it from destruetion. The traveller will regard with veneration the apart- ment of the great Sully, the ornaments and furniture ©f which are religiously preserved iinchar)ged. LIBRARY OF THE ROYAL‘ PAL ACE. The building was erected in 1584. The library of the arsenal is open to the public every day, except Sunday, from ten o’clock until two ; but from the 16th September to the 1st November it is shut. BihliotJieque Ste. Genevieve. The Library of St. Genevieve. [Place Ste. Genevieve.] This library occupies the upper part of the ancient abbey of Ste. Genevieve, and contains 80,000 printed volumes, and 2,000 manuscripts. It is in the form of a cross, lighted by a small dome in the centre, the cupola of which was painted by Restout, the elder, in 1 730. It delineates the Apotheosis of St. Augustin. The painting at one extremity of the building is by Lejoux, and forms a complete illusion. Many busts of eminent men, from the chisel of Girardon, Coyse- vox, Coustou, and other sculptors, ornament this li- brary. At the entrance of the Cabinet of Antiques is a plan of the city of Rome, in relievo, and coloured, the work of Grimani, in 1776. This library is open every day from ten o’clock till two. M. Treneuil is the principal librarian. Bihliotheqiie du Palais Boyal. Library of the Royal Palace. [Palais Royal.] This library was appropriated to the use of the members of the Tribunate, and the chief officers of MAZARINE LIBRARY. State. It was formed in the eighth year of the Revo- lution, with books collected from the literary depots at Paris. It has been since augmented by the contribu- tions of many living authors and booksellers. This collection was first placed in the Thuilleries, but afterwards removed to the Palace of Bourbon. Bihliotheques des Ministres. Libraries of the Ministers. Every minister of state had a library annexed to his situation, which was deposited in the chambers of his office, for his own particular use. Biblzotheque du Britanee Frangais. Library of the French Pritaneum. The books belonging to this institution were de- posited in the College of Louis the Great, called during the Revolution, “ The College of Equality^' These works were particularly intended for the use of the young students of the Pritaneum. Bihliotheque Mazarine, ou des Quatre Nations, Mazarine Library, or, Library of the Four Nations. This collection was appropriated by Cardinal Ma- zarine, on the 6th of March, 1661, to the use of men MEDICAL LIBRARY. 545 of science and letters. It was originally formed by Gabriel Naudet. It contains 60,000 volumes, com- prising every thing that can be esteemed most rare and curious, on every subject, and in every language. It now occupies one of the pavillions of the College of Four Nations. It is open every day, except Thursday, from ten till two. M. Petit Radel is the principal li- brarian. Bibliotheque de VInstitut. Library of the Institute, at the Palace of the Fine Arts. This library is open every day to the members of the Institute, and the associates j and to the public on Tuesday and Thursday, It contains about 16,000 volumes. Bibliotheque de la FacuUe de Medecine, Library of the Medical School. [Rue de I’Ecole.] The school of medicine possesses a well-selected and numerous library, comprising every subject that bears the remotest connexion with the healing art. It is open to the public on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, from ten o’clock until two. M. Moreau de la Sarthe is the principal librarian. Bihiiotkeque du Museum d^Histoire Naturelle. Library of the Museum of Natural History. [At the Royal Garden of Plants.] This library, rich in every work relating to natural history, has already been described in the account of the Royal Garden of Plants. The collection of herbals and paintings, and designs of plants, is immense. It is open to the public on Tuesday and Friday, from three o’clock until night in winter, and from four to seven in spring and summer. 347 LITERARY SOCIETIES. These societies appear to accord well with the pe- culiar character of the French nation. Of the almost countless number that exist I shall mention only the following. Academic Hoyale, The Royal Academy, lately called the Institute. [Palace of the Fine Arts.] The justly acquired reputation .of this institution, and the obligations which French and European litera- ture owe to it, are universally acknowledged. It was established during the reign of Louis XIV., and is composed of the most distinguished philosophers, literary characters, and artists of France, and corre- sponds with the learned of every nation. It is divided into four classes, which may be consi- dered as forming so many distinct societies. The va- cancies are supplied by the nomination of the remain- ing members, but it is necessary that the king should approve of the election. Each member has a salary of 1,500 francs per annum, and the costume which they wear at their meetings is black bordered with green silk. Each class has its separate meetings ; but , four times in every year the whole academy assembles, and a general report is made of the labours and pro- i gress of the institution. 348 THE ROYAL ACADEMY. The hall in which the general meetings are held is a noble apartment. Its sides are adorned with magni- ficent pillars, and its ceiling is finely painted. Between them are the statues of some of the most celebrated men that France has produced, viz. Sully, Bayard, Turenne, Vauban, Cond^ Tourville, Fenelon, Des- cartes, Catinat, Daguesseau, Duquesne, I’Hopital, and Bossuet. At each extremity is a statue representing Rollin and Pascal. In the anti-chambers are the statues- of Moliere, Racine, Corneille, La Fontaine, and Mon- tesquieu. The tables of the members are arranged along the centre in four divisions, corresponding with the four classes of the institution. The president is seated at the upper end, and by his side is a tribune for the orators. A railing encloses the area appropriated to the members, around which are benches for the visiters. The first division of the Academy has for its objects natural philosophy, chemistry, and the mathematics. It is composed of 63 members, and 100 corresponding members. It holds its sittings every Monday, at three- o’clock. At a public sitting in the month of January in every year, a prize of 3000 francs is awarded for the most useful discovery. Sir Joseph Banks, and Drs. Herschel and Jenner, are honorary members of this class. The second division is employed on French literature and the French language. It was sometimes called the Ancient French Academy. Its number is forty. It holds its sittings every Tuesday, at the same hour. The first sitting in April is public, and a prize of 1,500 francs is awarded. The thu’d class is occupied by history and ancient literature. It was formerly named the Academy of Inscriptions. It consists of forty members, eight asso- ciates, and sixty correspondents. Its private meetings are every Wednesday. The annual public meeting is 5 ATHEN-aSUM OF ARTS. 349 in July, when a prize of 1,500 francs is given to the successful candidate. Major Rennel is an honorary member of this division. The fourth is devoted to the fine arts. It consists of twenty members, eight associates, and thirty-six correspondents. It meets every Friday, and its public sitting is in the month of October ; prizes are then distributed for the best production in painting, sculp- ture, architecture, and musical composition. The successful candidate may likewise travel to Rome, at the expense of government, and spend six months there in the prosecution of his studies. West is an honorary member of this class. The distribution of the prizes is accompanied with much ceremony, and the hall is crowded with spec- tators. The Academy has a large room for a collection of machines and models. It contains more than twenty models of machines, intended to facilitate the escape of persons from the upper parts of buildings on fire. Atlienee des Arts, Athenaeum of Arts. [At the Oratory of St. Honor6 Street.] This society was instituted in 1792, during the dreadful convulsions of the Revolution, and has uni- formly maintained that prudence and moderation, in the course of its most active labours, which should ever characterize the proceedings of the friends of science and the arts. The destructive fire at the Circus, in the garden of the Palais Royal, where this institution held its sittings, compelled its removal to the Oratory of St. Honors, It embraces every scien- tific and literary topic ; but its principal object is the H K A'THENJEUM OF PARIS. encouragement of the arts and manufactures. Medals and -crowns are distributed to the authors of useful discoveries. No institution has more benefitted so- ciety, or acquired higher or better-deserved reputation. The labours of the society are divided into six classes, to the consideration of each of which particular days are devoted. Literature and political economy occupy the Tues- day; the pleasing and fine arts are discussed on Wednesday; and the mathematics and physics on Thursday. Atlienee de Paris. Athenaeum of Paris. [Rue de Valois, No. 2.] This institution was established in 1784, by Pilatre de Rozier, under the title of the “First Museum.” The extensive patronage which this infant society received, induced the most eminent men in every de- partment of science to unite themselves to it. It then assumed the name of Lyceum; and it was at this period that La Harpe first read his admired lectures on general literature, and Delille had occasionally recited his exquisite verses. It was afterwards called the Athenaeum of Paris. The annual subscription is four guineas, and for this are given lectures on every branch of science, with occasional concerts. The subscribers have access to a valuable library, and to well-selected cabinets of natural history, miner- alogy, and chemistry. Spacious rooms are open from nine in the morning till eleven at night, frequented by the best company, and containing the newspapers of the day, and every French and foreign journal. 7 LITERARY SOCIETIES, &C. 551 At/ienee des Etr angers. Athenaeum of Foreigners. [Rue du Hazard Richelieu, No. 14.] The very name of this institution is interesting to the traveller ; nor will an intimate acquaintance with it lessen the interest which its name creates. The most eminent professors deliver courses of lectures on every branch of science and literature, and in every language. General meetings of the society are held every month, for the consideration of literary topics* Original compositions in prose and verse are then read by the authors, and their merits discussed ; monthly concerts are given, in which the orchestra is filled by the most eminent amateur performers; and in the winter are three balls every month. Reading-rooms are open every day from ten o’clock in the morning till ten at night. Here are found every foreign and French periodical publication; and the rooms are frequented by all the literary characters of the day. It IS impossible to recommend this institution to the notice of the stranger in too strong terms. The subscription is sixty livres a year, thirty-six for six months, and a louis for three months. LITERARY SOCIETIES, &c. Scientific institutions are much patronized in the French capital ; but, as they are very numerous, it would be extending the subject too fai* to enter into a minute detail of the pursuits of each. The author will therefore content himself with giving the names of the following, as well as the places where they hold their respective meetings ; — H H 3 352 LITERARY SOCIETIES, &C, Bureau des Longitudes^ Committee of Longitude ; at the Observatory in the suburb of St. James. The labours of the learned men who compose this society have for their object constant astronomical observations at the Observatory, and in the Military School ; and for this purpose they have at their disposal all the instruments of which government is possessed. They correspond with other Observatories in France and abroad. They are charged with the publication of the “ Connaissance des Temps,” for the use of astronomers and navigators, and with bringing to perfection the discovery of the longitude, and the most scientific way of making and recording astronomical and meteor- ological observations, &c. The bureau is composed of two geometricians, four astronomers, with four assistants, two retired naval officers, a geographer, and three artists. SociHe d* Encouragement. Royal Society for the Encouragement of National Industry. Rue du Bac, 42 . This society, which has not existed more than twenty years, comprises most of the ministers of state, many public functionaries, the first men of property, and the most celebrated literary characters. Its object is to second the efforts of government, for the improve- ment of French manufactures, agriculture, and industry. At an annual meeting in July numerous prizes are distributed. The more private meetings of the society are held on every alternate Wednesday. Societe des Belles Lettres. Society of Belles Lettres. Held at the last-mentioned building. Societe d* Institution. Society of the Institution. This establishment which existed prior to the Revo- lution, was then called “ Bureau Acadeviique d*Ecri- ture^' Academical Court of Composition. A fOra- toire, Rne St. Honore. At the Oratory, St. Honore Street. Societe d* Agriculture. Agricultural Society, at th« LITERARY SOCIETIES, &C^ 353 Hotel de Ville. It is composed of fifty resident mem- bers, thirty French, and twenty foreign associates. It is the centre of correspondence for all the agricultural societies in the kingdom, and is occupied, under the superintendance of the minister of the interior, with every thing relative to the improvement of agriculture. It holds its sittings on the first and third Wednesday in every month. The king is the patron, and the Comte Neuf-Chateau the president. Societe Royale Academique des Sciences. Royal Academical Society of Sciences. At the Oratory, St. Honore Street. This society devotes itself to the improvement of the sciences, the arts, and literature, and comprises many of the most celebrated literati of France. The Duke of Angouleme is the patron, and the late Duke of Berry was an honorary member. Societe de Medecine. Society of Medicine. — ^At the last-mentioned place. Societe des Negocians. The Merchants’ Society. — Rue Richelieu, No. 1,245. V Academie Celtique, The Celtic Academy, Hotel Bullion, Rue J. J. Rousseau. This society confines its labours to the language, customs, manners, and monuments of the ancient Celtic inhabitants of Gaul, and the neighbouring countries. There are other societies, whose ambition appears to be limited to the promotion of gaiety, wit, and good fellowship. A society of this kind, termed Caveau Moderne^ is held at the Rocher de Concale, Rue Montorgueil, on the 20th of every month. After a few days, the public are presented with the couplets, epigrams, and bon-mots, to which the champagne has given birth. A similar, and not inferior, society is termed Les Soupers de Momus. It meets on the first Saturday in every month, at M. Beauvilliers’, Rue Richelieu. H H 3 1 354f READING ROOMS, &c. There are numerous cabinets or reading-rooms, where the stranger may peruse the papers of the day. At M. Rosa’s, in the Court of the Palais Royal, he may occupy himself for three hours in reading the journals, every periodical publication, and the most interesting fugitive pamphlets, for the small sum of six sous. The monthly subscription is more economical. If to these he wishes to add the journals of his own country, and the works of the most esteemed British writers, he will find them at M. Galignani’s, 1 8, Rue Vivienne, where is now published an English daily newspaper. At M. Foul on’s, 5, Rue des Francs Bourgeois St, Michel, he will, in addition to the French and foreign journals, have access to a well-compiled and numerous library, containing every established work on every subject of literature or philosophy. The best circulating libraries are M. Renard’s, 12, Rue Caumartin, and 16, Rue de I’Universite, and M. Lenoir’s, Rue de Richelieu. Mr, Octavius Mitchell very recently formed an establishment at No. 17, Rue de la Paix, near the Thuilleries, where are kept a regular series of English newspapers, magazines, and new publications. It is now conducted by Mr. Collie. Messrs. Bossange and Masson, iii Rue Tournon, have a very choice collection of elegant works in foreign languages ; but their business is chiefly wholesale, and they are connected with all the eminent booksellers and publishers in Europe and America. They have a splendid establishment in Great Marlborough Street, Londcm. The celebrated establishments of Messrs. Didot are well worthy the notice of strangers; also that of Messrs. Treottel and Wiirtz, who have. likeM'isc an establishment in London, and at Strasbourg. S55 PARIS NEWSPAPERS and MAGAZINES. Galignani’s Messenger (an English daily paper,) 25 fr. for three months. Galignani’s Repertory, or, Literary Gazette, and Jour- nal of the Belles Lettres (an English Sunday paper,) 13 fr. for three months, No. 18, Rne Vivienne. Monitenr Universel (le), 28 fr. for three months, No. 6, Rue dcs Poitevins, Journal du Commerce, de Politique, et de Literature, 18 fr. three months, Rue de Vaugirard, No. 15. Journal de Paris, 18 fr. three nionths, 17, Rue de la Monnaie. Journal des Debats, 18 fr. three months, 17, Rue des Pretres St.-Germain-L’Auxerrois. Gazette de Prance, 18 fr. three months, 5, Rue Christine. Annals-i Politiques, Morales et Litt^raires, 18 fr. three months, 51, Rue St. Andr6 des Arts, La Quotidienne, 18 fr. three months, 3, Rue Neuve des Rons Enfans. Journal G^n^ral de France, 18 fr. three months, 6, Rue Ste.-Hyacinthe. L’Ami de la Religion et dn Roi, (twice a-week,) 8 fr, three months, Le Clerc’s, 35, Quai des Augustins. Journal des Maires, thrice a-week, fr. three months, 14, Rue de Pot de Per. Le Narrateur, 13 fr. 50 c, three months, 315, Rue St. Honors. Journal des Compagnes, thrice a-week, 8 fr, 50 c. three months, 38, Rue des Bons Enfans. Journal G^n^ral d’Affiches, 16 fr, three months, 55, Rue de Grenelle St, Honors, Prix Courant des Marchandises en Gros, every day, 9 fr. three months, Bailleul, 71, Rue St. Anne. Prix Courant G^n^raux du Commerce et des Manufac- , tures, twice a-week, 12 fr, three months, 33, Rue de la Sourdit/e. 356 PARIS NEWSPAPERS La Minerve, once a-week, 14 fr. three months, 18, Rue des Foss6s St. Germain des Pr4s. Archives Philosophiques, Politiques, et Litt^raires, monthly, 30 fr. a-year, at Fommier’s, 10, RueMagon. Jurisprudence Coinmerciale, monthly, 17 fr. a-year, 20, Rue J. J. Rousseau. Bulletin de la Society d’Encouragenient pour I’Industrie Nationale, monthly, Huzard, 7, Rue de I’Eperon. Anuales des Arts et Manufactures, monthly, 11, Rue de la Monnaie. Journal General de I’lniprimerie et de la Libraire, every Saturday, 20 fr. a year, 5, Rue Christine. Journal General de la Litt^rature Etiangere, monthly, 15 fr. a-year, 17, Rue de Lille. Journal G^n^ral de la Litt^rature de France, monthly, 15 fr. a-year, 17, Rue de Lille. Journal de M6decine, monthly, 22 fr. a-year, Migneret, Rue du Dragon. Gazette de Sante, 3 times a month, 18 fr. a-year, 23, Rue du Cherche Midi. Journal des Sciences M^dicales, monthly, 20 fr. six months, Mequignon Marvis, 9, Rue de I’Ecole de M^decine. Journal G6n6ral de M6decine, Chimie et Pharmacie, monthly, 23 fr. a-year at Croullebois, 17, Rue des Mathurins. Bulletin de Pharmacie, monthly, 15 fr. a-year. Colas, 14, Rue du Petit Bourbon St. Sulpice. Journal de Pharmacie, monthly, 15 fr. a-year, same address. Annales Cliniques de la Soci6t4 de Montpellier, monthly, 20 fr. a-year, Mequignon Marvis, 9, Rue de I’Ecole de Medecine. Bibliotheque Medicale, monthly, 25 fr. a-year, same address. Journal du Palais, monthly, 27 fr. a-year, 55, Rue de Grenelle St. Honor4. Recueil G6n6ral des Lois et Arrets, monthly, 27 fr. a- year, 19, Rue d’Enfer St. Michel. Journal des Audiences de la Cour de Cassation, monthly, Bavaux, 4, Rue Git-Ie-Cceur. AND MAGAZINES. '357 Jurisprudence dn Code Civil, monthly, same address. Nouvelles Causes cdlebres., monthly, 20 fr. a-year, Ver- neur, 7, Boulevard des Italiens. Causes cdlebres, montlily, 22 fr. a-year, 62, Rue du Temple. Annales de Legislation et de Jurisprudence duNotariat,^ monthly, 22 fr. a~year, 51, Rue Beaubourgi Journal des Notaires et Avocats, monthly, 15 fr. a-year, Ripert, 315, Rue St. Honor6. Journal des Avou4s, monthly, 18 fr. a-year, 4,1, Rue St. Jacques. Journal de la Lyre, ou Guitai-e, monthly, 15 fr. a-year, Missonnier, 182, Rue Montmartre. Journal d’Euterpe, or Nouveau Journal du Chant, monthly, 26 fr. a-year, Garaud6, 108, Rue St. Honors. Journal Hebdoniadaire de Musique, every Monday, 25 fr. a-year, Leduc, 78, Rue Richelieu. Journal des Savans, monthly, 37 fr. a-year, 17, Rue de Bourbon. Annales de rAgriculture Fran^aise, monthly, 25 fr. a- year, Huzard, 7, Rue de I’Eperon. Annales de Physique et Chimie, monthly, 20 fr. a-year, Crochard, 3, Rue de Sorbonne. Journal de Physique, de Chimie, d’Histoire Naturelle, et des Arts, monthly, 27 fr. a-year, Courcier, 12, Rue du Jardinet, Bibliotheque Physico-Economlque, instructive, et amu- sante, monthly, 12 fr. a-year, Bertrand, 23, Rue Haute- feuille. L’Agriculteur Fran^ais, twice a-morith, 10 fr. a-year, same address. Hermes Romanus, ou Mercure Latin, i5 fr. a-year, 4, Rue Cloitre Notre Dame, Journal d’Education, monthly, 21 fr, a-year, Colas, 14, Rue du Petit Bourbon St. Sulpice. Bulletin des Sciences, monthly, 13 fr. a-year, Mequignon Mgrvis, No. 9, Rue de I’Ecole de Mcdecine. Annales Encyclopediques, monthly, 36 fr. a-year, 12, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs. Auuales de JMath^matiques, monthly^ 21 fr, a-year, Courcier, 12, Rue du Jardinet, PARIS NEWSPAPERS, &C. 3'5S Journal Militaire, monthly, 30 fr. a-year, Magimel, 9^, Rue Dauphine. Annales des Batiments et de I’Industrie Fran(;aise, monthly, 20 fr. a-year, 6, Rue Ste. Croix de la Bre- tonnerie. Journal des Dames et des Modes, every fiye days, 9 fr. three months, Mesangeie, 183, Rue Montmartre. Bibliotheque Universelle, monthly, 54 fr. a-year, Magi- mel, 9, Rue Dauphine. Annales Forestieres, monthly, 10 fr. a-year, Bertrand, Rue Hautefeuille. Journal de I’Enr^gistrement et des Domaines, three times a month, 18 fr. a-year, 13, Rue du faubourg Montmartre. Annales du Magnetisme Animal, twice a month, 9 fr. three months, 15, Rue de Latour d’Auvergne. Le Publiciste, weekly, 12 fr. three months, 5, Rue Pagevin. Le Spectateur Politique, weekly, 13 fr. three months,, 27, Rue Coquilliere. MANUFACTORIES. Majii^acture Roy ale des Gobelins. Royal Manufactory of the Gobelins. [At the corner of MoufFetard Street.] This manufactory stands at the southern extremity of Paris, on the margin of the little river Bievre, so well known from the numerous mills of every descrip- tion which are set in motion by its current. • It was originally founded by one Gobelin, a dyer, from Rheims, who established himself at Paris in the reign of Francis I. He, however, confined himself to simply dyeing the worsteds. The celebrated Colbert estab- lished the grand work, the weaving of tapestry, in imi- tation of that of Flanders ; and it is but justice to say, that the tapestry of the Gobelins now infinitely sur- passes that of which it was at first an humble imitation. The principal subjects on which their looms are employed, are copies of the most celebrated paintings of the French and Italian schools : and for brilliancy of colour, and delicacy of execution, their productions are often not far inferior ^ to the originals. The sim- plicity of the machinery, and the grandeur of the building, are well worthy the attention of the inquisi- tive traveller. A single piece of tapestry sometimes requires the labour of two years, and has cost nearly 300/. sterling ; even then the manufacturers are inadequately remune- rated for their skill, industry, and expense. The manufactory now belongs to government, and is supported by the nation. S60 MANUFACTORY OF PLATE GLASS. A dye-house at the back of the manufactory deserves the attention of the chemist ; and a school is established here to instruct the workmen in the principles of their art. A similar manufactory is found at Beauvais, and is said to rival the parent institution. At Quai Billy, No. 50 , is a manufactory of carpets, on the same principle, and of very great ingenuity. Both this and the Gobelins are open to the inspection of the public every day, from ten o’clock until one. The productions of these elegant establishments are necessarily confined to the houses of the most opulent classes of society ; or rather, in the present impover- ished state of France, they are almost without pur- chasers. Manufacture des Graces. Manufactory of Plate Glass. [Rue de Reuilly^ Faubourg St. Antoine. Reuilly Street, Suburb of St. Anthony.] In this establishment are polished and perfected those large plates which are formed at St. Gobin and Cher- bourg. Colbert established this manufactory also ; prior to which, plate glass was only to be procured at Venice ; but now the largest sizes are the production of French artizans. In his time, indeed, the manu- factory of St. Gobin was confined to blown glass, the greatest size of which did not exceed ten or twelve square feet ; but since M. de Nehou has invented a method of casting the plates, they are sometimes pro- duced ten feet in length, and six or seven in breadth, containing sixty or seventy square feet, and valued at 250/. or 3001 . MANUFACTORY OF PAIN'TED PAPERS. 361 Manufacture Royale lies Porcelaines. Royal Porcelain Manufactory. [Sevres near Paris.] The exquisite productions of this establishment are well known. A few of them have found their way to Great Britain, particularly the service of china pre- sented to Lord Liverpool by Buonaparte. In delicacy of execution and brilliancy of colour, except pei-haps in a deep rich purple, some of the English manufac- tories equal that at Sevres. In proof of this I need only refer to the admirable performances that decorate the windows of some of the china warehouses in Bond Street, Piccadilly, and Coventry Street. I would, however, strongly recommend the traveller to visit the porcelain works at Sevres, and can promise him the highest gratification. A manufactory resembling that at Sevres, and not a great deal inferior to it, may be seen at M. Dilh’s, 137, Rue du Temple. A third establishment belongs to M. Olivier, and is to be seen at Rue de Reuilly It re- sembles that of Wedge wood, in the British islands, and in some respects equals, or even surpasses it. M. Oli- vier is principally celebrated for his imitation of Etrus- can and other ancient vases, and for porcelain figures, which are accurate copies, in miniature, of some of the most exquiste statues of former times. Mamfacture des Papiers Peints. Manu- factory of Painted Papers. [/iw. coin de la Rue Louis le GrandySur le BduhTard. At the corner of Louis the Great Street, on the Boulevard.] Two hundi-ed workmen are daily employed in this 362 , MANUFACTORY OF ARMS. maunfactory, who execute, in the greatest perfection, every ornament resembling painting, sculpture, or ar- chitecture. These productions are in much request, for adorning public chambers, galleries, and theatres. , The fancy papers of the most celebrated London makers are greatly inferior to those at Paris. Manufacture des Cristoux. Manufactory of Crystals. ^Besson Rue 3Iontorgueil, No. J018, Divison des Invalids. Besson Montorgueil Street, No. 1018, Division of the Invalids.] The art of engraving on glass has never been car- ried to higher perfection than here. Mamfacture dh Velours d la Turque, Manu- factory of Turkish Velvets. [Faubourg St. Antoine, pr^s les Enfans TrouvSs. Suburb St. Anthony, near the Foundling Hospital.] Manifacture d! Horlogerie, Manufactory of Clock and Watch-Making. [Rue dll Buisson Louis, Faubourg du Temple. Buisson Louis Street, Suburb of the Temple.] Manufacture dlArmes. Manufactory of Arms. The finest establishment of this kind in Europe was MANUFACTORY OF ARMS. S63 that of Versailles, where the stranger was much gra- tified by inspecting the various department? of the ma- nufactory, and the celerity with which the artisans com- pleted the several engines of destructive warfare. It was destroyed by the Prussians on their second occupation of Paris. It is, however, again re-esta- blished, but not on its former scale of magnificence. The Prussians likewise destroyed the manufactory of powder at Essone, and carried off all the machines and implements, some of which were of a new and im- proved construction. MODES OF CONVEYANCE, &c, fiacres. Hackney Coaches. These are even more numerous in Paris than in the j British metropolis; and many of them are more dis- | gusting in their appearance, and the horses are more ‘ wretched than in London. They are hired either by the course, i. e., as often as the vehicle is stopped, or by the hour. The fare is 30 sous (I 5 . 5d.) per course, whether it be a quarter of a mile or three miles ; or two francs (U. Sd.) for the first hour, and 30 sous (is. 3d.) per hour afterwards. After midnight the fare is doubled. These vehicles are strictly regulated by the police, and the least complaint for exorbitant charge or uncivil behaviour is promptly attended to. Should ^ the stranger inadvertently leave any thing valuable, or the most trifling article, in a fiacre, he has only to go to the police-office, on the following morning, even without knowing the number of the coach, and if the article be not already deposited at the office, it will be speedily restored to him. Cabriolets, One-Horse Chahcs, with a Head. These are generally better horsed than the fiacres, and will be usually preferred by the single traveller. They are subject to the same regulation as the fiacres, but the fare is only 25 sous, (I 5 . O^d.) for the course, or 30 sous (! 376 THE OPERA. we may hope to see almost every figurante on the boards displaying an elegance, agility, and knowledge of the ai-t, which would apparently enable her to fill the most important parts. It must, however, be confessed, that the French taste is much degenerated with respect to this art. The ef- fects of that degeneracy have reached every neighbour- ing country, and have weakened the interest and de- stroyed the illusion of the ballet. Gracefulness of attitude, and elegance of motion, are now mere secon- dary considerations, or are completely disregarded; and the whole of the art is confined to a display of agility and muscular power. Although the dancer may have executed his part with inimitable grace, and most touchingly expressed the sentiments of his character, not one voice applauds ; but if, after having whirled himself round with inconceivable velocity, until even the spectator becomes giddy, he suddenly stops, and re- mains immoveable on one foot, the whole theatre rings with acclamations. The most delightful ballets are those which represent rural scenes, and the adventures of some rustic shepherd and his inamorata. The French give to these a peculiar and exquisite interest. I would advise my reader not to lose an opportunity of witnessing them ; particularly L’Epreuve Villageoise, and Coliinette a la Cour. Among the more splendid operas are Ossian, and Le Corasmera de Cairo. The prices of admission are: balcony, 10 francs; first and second tier of boxes in front, amphitheatre and orchestra, 7 francs 10 sous. First and second boxes at the sides, and third boxes in front, 6 francs. Third tier of boxes at the side, 4 francs. Fourth and fifth boxes, and pit, 5 francs 12 sous. The doors open at six, and the opera commences at seven. THE FRENCH THEATRE. 577 Theatre Frangais, The French Theatre. [Rue Richelieu, No. 6.] This theatre likewise presents nothing striking in its exterior. Its peristyle towards the street Richelieu is of the Doric order, and is composed of eleven interco- luminations, forming ten arcades. Above are pilasters of the Corinthian order, whose entablature is cut by a range of small windows. The principal saloon is of an elliptical form, and is surrounded by three rows of Doric columns. The first row is coupled ; the two others are isolated. The ceiling is adorned with sculp- ture and arabesque ornament. Four staircases ascend from the saloon to the different divisions of the house. The theatre is 69 feet wide, and as many in depth, and the stage presents an opening of 38 feet. The internal decoration of the house is far from attractive, and con- sists principally of a dingy yellow marble. This theatre is consecrated to the exhibition of the classical productions of the best French writers. Ra- cine, Corneille, Voltaire, Crebillon, and Moliere, are the sources from which its most frequent and most ap- proved performances are selected ; and no attempt has been made to disgrace the immortal productions of genius, by false ornaments, and contemptible pageants. In the delineation which I have given of the French stage, in the introduction to this section, I have de- picted the true character of this theatre ; and it only remains to present the reader with a slight sketch of the principal performers. First in fame, and first in real merit, stands Talma. In person he is rather below the middle size ; his coun- tenance is not prepossessing, though capable of strong and irresistible expression ; but his voice is the finest K K 3 378 THE FRENCH THEATRE. with which Nature ever gifted an actor. The rich and mellow tones in which it displays aftection, tenderness, and pity, instantaneously find their way to the heart ; and it expresses, with equal ease, all the harrowing emo- tions of remorse, despair, and madness. The actor has it under perfect command; and when he forgets the vicious habits of the French tragic school, and abandons himself to all the genuine influence of the sentiments which he utters, it is never in the slightest degree harsh or unnatural, even in its most sudden and violent transitions. The Englishman will, probably, listen to his recitation with mingled displeasure and admiration. His artificial, violent, rapid, and abrupt enunciation will excite asto- nishment, and sometimes disgust; and possibly will, now and then, have an almost irresistible effect on the risible muscles But before the auditor has time to embody or to express either of these sensations, some passage of interest or feeling occurs; — the shackles which long habit, or the mechanism of the French school, had imposed upon him, are burst asunder ; the genius of Talma stands confessed, and every latent sentiment of displeasure is lost in enthusiastic and im- conti’ollable admiration. When the warmth of friendship is displayed, when deep or intense suffering is depicted, or when the mind is abandoned to the wildness of despair. Talma is un- equalled and irresistible. No actor on the British stage, not even the impressive Kean, can produce that har- rowing effect on the whole audience which Talma uni- formly does, when, in Hamlet, he vainly flies from his father’s ghost ; when, in Orestes, he is tortiu’ed by the dreadful vision of the furies ; or when, in CEdipus, all the horrors of his fate burst at once upon his mind* The theatre presents no other tragic actor whose name deserves to be recorded next to that of Talma, except, perhaps, St.-Prix, who has long held a distin- THE FRENCH THEATRE. 379 guished rank as a tragedian, or Lafond, who is natural, impressive, grand, and, like his master, too frequently monotonous, or bombastic, or ridiculous. At the head of the tragic actresses stands Madame Duchesnois. She is the only uniformly natural tragic actress on the French stage, and is nearly exempt from the mingled whine, and cant, and fustian of the school. Who has not wished that her features were less harsh ; w'ho has not felt, that if they could lend more aid to the impressive intonations of her voice, she would be, like Talma, irresistible? Mademoiselle Georges was the handsomest woman of her day ; and in the delineation of strong feeling, i-age, grief, horror, madness, or despair, she is yet with- ' out a rival. Mademoiselle Volnais will always please by the deep interest which she evidently feels in the business of the play, and the ease with which she perfectly abandons herself to the full influence of the sentiments which she expresses. Except the traveller perceives either of these names in the play-bill, I would not recommend him to witness a tragic representation at the Theatre Fran^ais ; and these names' appear not so often as both the stranger and the Parisian desii-e. Our list of comic actors is more extensive. The ac- complished and elegant Fleury, the perfect model of a gentleman, has lately retired. Armand, the favourite of the ladies, and the very prince of lovers. Baptiste, junior, the chastest and the most truly comic actor on the stage. Derivis, who knows so well to express the genuine feelings of an honest and benevolent heart ; and Damas, who, with much coarseness of acting, ini- mitably personates the passions of avarice, fear, suspi- cion, and jealousy. Among the females. Mademoiselle Mars occupies the most conspicuous place. She is now approaching the 380 THE ODEON. meridian of life, but the imagination can scarcely picture any thing more completely lovely than she must once have been. In every walk of genteel comedy, and in the hoyden, so fas as the French stage will admit the character, she is pre-eminent. The playful winning sweetness of her smile will never be forgotten by him who has once felt its power. Second only to her, and treading in the same walk, is Mademoiselle Leverd. It is often difficult to deter^ mine the palm of merit between them. I cannot give a better idea of the peculiar excellence of each, than by stating, that Mademoiselle Mars has all the rich and sportive vivacity of a Jordan, mingled with much of the elegance of a Farren; while Mademoiselle Leverd pos- sesses all the grace of the latter, with no inconsiderable portion of the spirit and playfulness of the former. Messrs. Michelot and Colson likewise perform at this theatre. Our limits will not admit of a more extensive notice of performers. Prices of admission. — Balcony, orchestra, and first boxes, 6 francs 12 sous. First gallery and second boxes, 4 francs 8 sous. Third boxes, 5 francs 6 sous. Pit, 2 francs 4 sous ; and second gallery, 1 franc 1 6 sous. The doors are here likewise opened at 6 o’clock, and the entertainments commence at 7. The Odeon^ Burnt down, March 20th, 1818, but now rebuilt. [Faubourg St. Germain, near the Luxembourg.] A French company played here five times every week ; but the performances could not boast of the sterling excellence of the Theatre Fran 9 ais. The situa- tion of the house is not favourable. It is on the south of the river, and is seldom crowded. THE COMIC OPERA, 381 On two nights in the week an Italian company per- forin here. The principal singers are frequently chang- ing. Madame Fessi, well known on the London stage, was engaged from the Odeon. UOph'a Comique. The Comic Opera, or Theatre Feydeau, [Rue Feydeau, No. 19.] The exterior of this theatre is almost concealed by ; surrounding buildings. The interior much resembles i that of the French theatre. Its name well expresses the entertainments that are usually given here. They are principally operas, representing country scenes, like the English operas of Rosina, Love in a Village, &c. It must, however, be acknowledged, that the French give an interest to these rural pictures seldom felt on the English stage. Much unnatural sentimentality is omitted in the higher characters, and all rudeness and grossness are banished from the lower. The best per- formances of Lesueur, Cherubini, Daleyrac, and Mehul, may frequently be witnessed at the Comic Opera. The stranger may at all times depend on much amusement at this theatre. Prices : — First and second boxes, and orchestra, 6 fi'ancs 12 sous. First gallery and the third boxes, 4 francs 8 sous. Second gallery, 2 francs 15 sous. Pit, 2 francs 4 sous. The doors are opened at six, and the play begins at seven. 382 THEATRE \^AUDEV1LLE, Theatre Favart ; or Theatre des Italiens, [Rue Favart.l This edifice was erected by M. Heurtier, in 1782, on the site of the Hotel de Choiseul. A peristyle of six columns, of the ancient Ionic order, forms the only or- nament of the facade. The proportions of the columns are grand, but altogether without decoration. The entablature has a heavy appearance. Some years ago this little theatre was taken by Ma- dame Catalan!, who engaged a small company of Ita- lians, and exhibited here her unrivalled powers of voice. The speculation did not prove so lucrative as she expected. Prices: — First boxes, 10 francs; second boxes, 6 francs 14 sous; pit, 3 francs 12 sous; and amphi- theatre, 5 francs 10 sous. Theatre Vaudeville. [Rue de Chartres, St. Honors. ] The performances of this theatre are various, often singular, and always attract crowded audiences. They principally consist of very short, yet interesting comic sketches, filled with little songs, (Vaudevilles,) either amatory, sentimental, or epigrammatic. These songs are usually furnished by a club of wits, whose meetings are known by the name of Les Diners du Vaudeville. The passing events or occurrences of the day often form the subject of little comic or serious pieces. Happy parodies are frequently given of the spectacles of the larger houses. Occasionally, however, the per- formances assume a superior character. THEATRE DU BOULEVARD ST. MARTIN. 383 Joly is decidedly the best comic actor. Prices: — First boxes, 5 francs 10 sous; second boxes, 5 francs ; third, 2 francs 4 sous ; fourth, 1 franc 10 sous ; pit, 1 franc 15 sous. The doors open at 6, and the play begins at 7. Theatre de V Ambigu Comique. [Boulevards du Temple. The Boulevards of the Temple.] This little theatre, of an oval form, is very taste- fully decorated, and devoted to the performance of melo-dramas, with dancing, and short comic pieces. Its motto, Sicut infantes audi nos, was perfectly unne- cessary. We can assure the traveller that the expect- ations which the perusal of the Judgment of Solomon may have raised will not be disappointed. Prices : — Stage boxes, 5 francs 12 sous. First boxes, 2 francs 8 sous. Second boxes, 1 franc 16 sous. Pit, 1 franc 4 sous; and third boxes, 12 sous. The doors are opened at five, and the performances commence at half-past five. Theatre du Boulevard St. Martin, ■ This house was originally designed for the opera ; but it was afterwards considered to be too distant from the court. It is now appropriated to the same kind of performances as the Ambigu Comique. The interior of the theatre is peculiarly elegant. The favourite melo-drama of the Maid and the Mag- pie was brought out here, and attracted crowded au- diences, at the period when the cannon of the Allies could be distinctly heard from the Boulevards. Prices : — Stage boxes and first boxes, front, 8 francs 384 ? THEATRE OF VARIETIES. 12 SOUS. First boxes, sides, and first gallery, 2 francs 8 sous. Orchestra, and second boxes, 1 franc 16 sous. Pit, 1 franc 4 sous. Third boxes and amphitheatre, 12 sous. The doors open at half-past five, and the entertain* ments commence at six o’clock. Theatre de la Gaiete, Theatre of Gaiety. [Boulevard du Temple.] The performances of this theatre are not different from those of the two preceding, and at either of the three the representation of the melo-drama is decidedly superior to that of any of the minor houses in Lon- don. The dancers at this house are supposed to be supe- rior to those at either of the two preceding theatres. Prices : — ^First boxes, 5 francs 12 sous. First and second boxes in front, 2 francs 8 sous. Orchestra and front gallery, 1 franc 1 6 sous. Second gallery, front, 1 franc 10 sous. Pit, 1 franc 4 sous. The doors open at five, and the entertainments com- mence at half-past five. Theatre des Varietes. Theatre of Varieties. [Boulevard Montmartre.] This little theatre, designed for pieces of a bur- lesque and popular kind, was built by Cellerier, in 1807. The exterior has four Ionic over four Doric columns, crowned with a triangular pediment. The style of building is simple, light, and theatrical. The pieces performed here profess not to rank higher than farces ; although divested of all the coarse- THEATRE OP NOVELTY. S85 ness of the English farce. Let not this, however, deter the traveller from visiting it ; for he may be assured that he will generally be pleased, and never disgusted. The broad comic acting of Potier and Brunei, and th€ grotesque caricatures of Tiercelin, will be found irresistible ; and Mesdemoiselles Pauline and Aldegonde will interest, the former especially, by their simple and unaffected style of acting. This theatre is said to be the favourite resort of cour- tezans ; they do not, however, offend by their obtrusive, noisy, or indecent behaviour. Prices : — Orchestra, first boxes, and second boxes, front, 5 francs 12 sous. Second boxes, sides, 2 francs 8 sous. Third boxes, 2 francs. Pit, 1 franc IS sous. Fourth boxes and gallery, 1 franc 5 sous. The doors open at half-past five, and the perform- ances begin at six. Theatre de Bimfaimnce. Theatre of Benevolence. [Rue St. Denis. Saint Denis-Street, at the corner of Lombard Street.] The pieces represented in this structure ai’e per- formed by blind persons; and the profits are appro- priated to the support of this unfortunate and interest- ing part of the community. Theatre de la NouveautL Theatre of Novelty. [Rue de Grenelle.] ^ NiTMEROus chemical and philosophical experiments exhibited here every evening ; but they are calcu- [Jated more for amusement than instruction. L L S86 MECHANICAL THEATRE. Cirque Olympique, The Olympic Circus. [Rue Faubourg du Temple.] The entertainments exhibited on this stage resemble those at Astley’s, and are scarcely inferior to them. The house is spacious and elegant, and the whole is under the direction of M. Franconi, whose family are the principal performers. The intelligence, docility, and activity of two young stags, are much admired. Prices : — Stage boxes, 4 francs. First boxes, 5 francs. Circular boxes, 2 francs 8 sous. Second boxes, l franc 16 sous. Third boxes, 1 franc 4 sous. The doors are opened at six, and the entertainments commence at seven. Theatre Tittaresque et Mecanique de M, Pierre* Picturesque and Mechanical Theatre of M. Pierre. [Rue Montesquieu.] M. Pierre, the inventor of this pleasing exhibition, is dead, but his former assistants continue it with un- diminished attraction. It was exhibited in London, at the Sans Pared Theatre in the Strand, but did not excite the attention which it merited. It consists of a representation of landscapes, cities, sea-ports, &c., the different parts of which are in re- lief, and admirably contrived to render the perspective complete, and the general appearance of the whole highly interesting. This scene is enlivened by numer- ous animated figures; carriages of every description 7 COSMORAMA, 387 cross the bridge ; boats sail up the river ; pedestrian* crowd its banks ; the sun gradually rises ; the appear- ance of the sky perpetually changes, and occasionally the grand accompaniments and effect of a storm are portrayed. The traveller will doubtless acknowledge that one evening at least can be agreeably spent here. The exhibitions are changed every month, and a pleasing panorama is given of all the principal cities in Europe, with the peculiar costume of each. First places, 3 francs. Second, 2 francs. Third, 1 franc. Panorama. [Boulevard Montmartre.] This exhibition is on the same principle as that in Leicester Square in the British metropolis, and not in- ferior in size or effect. The views are changed as fre- quently as the rapid pencil of the artist will permit. It is open from ten o’clock in the morning until night. Admittance 2 francs. Panstereoma. [Beyond the Barriere da Roule, No. 43.] The principal cities of Europe are here represented, painted in relief, in a pleasing and striking manner. Co^morama. [In the Stone Gallery of the Palais Royal, No. 23t.J This is a somewhat similar, and not less pleasing ex- hibition. It comprises picturesque views of some of ELS 388 EXHIBITIOJ^ OF PAINTINGS. the most celebrated cities and constructions of ancient and modern times. The view of the island of Elba and Porto-Ferrajo is much admired. It has also a view of St. Helena, and of the Seven Wonders of the World. It is open every night from five o’clock until eleven. Admittance, 1 franc 10 sous. Plans en Relief, Plans in Relief. [In the same Gallery, No. 55 ] ’ This is not unlike the former, but principally con- 'i fined to the grand appearances of nature. The views of the Alps, St. Gothard, and the Lake of Geneva, | are among the best. | Voltaire’s villa at Ferney, Gibbon’s at Lausanne, and 1 Necker’s at Copet, give an interest to the borders of the beautiful lake. There is separately a model on a large scale, of i Voltaire’s house and gardens, and of the interior of his bed-room, the whole forming a very interesting sight. This exhibition is daily open from noon till ten o’clock at night. Admission, 2 francs, ! ; Exhibition of Paintings, [Rue du Coq-St. Honors, No. 7.] Here are to be seen, gratis, some very valuable paintings, and other curiosities for sale, which are well deserving inspection. PHANTASMAGORIA. 3S9 Gi'egoiris Manufactory of Silk Velvet, [Rue de Charonne, No, 47, Faubourg St. Antoine.] These are imitations of paintings. Exhibition gratis, from ten till three. Modeles des Ruines Antiques. Models of Ancient Ruins. [Palais des Beaux Arts.] Here is a beautiful, interesting, and curious model, on a large scale, of the ruins of Palmyra, or Tadmor in the Desert, built by Solomon ; a city famous for its founder and for its fall, as well as for its unrivalled magnificence. That city, which Gibbon calls “ the seat of arts, of sciences, and of Zenobia,*’ exhibits, even at this distance of time, a forest of majestic co- lumns, such as are not to be seen in any other part of the world. There are some other curious models of ruins to be seen, by application at the Palais des Arts. Fantasmagorie. Phantasmagoria. [Rue de Porte aux Chevaux. Faubourg St. Germain.] Spirits, ghosts, and every species of optical delu- sion are here displayed for the entertainment of the visiter, while the ventriloquist also contributes his powers ; together with the invisible girl, and the ex- quisite music of the Harmonica, &c. It is open every night at six o’clock. L L 3 S90 MR. COMTe’jS exhibition, Spectacle Instriiclif de Robertson, Robertson’s Instructive Spectacle. [Boulevard Montmartre, No. 12.] This is an exhibition similar to that which Bologna attempted in Lent. The electrical, galvanic, and op- tical experiments, although not new, are the most brilliant which those branches of philosophy present. Some of the acoustic machines are curious. The Chi- nese shades are superior to those usually seen, and the Phantasmagoria is sufficiently terrifying. It is open every night at half-past six. Spectacle de M. Olivier, [Hue Neuve des Petits-Champs, No. 15.] Many of the most popular and striking deceptions in legerdemain are exhibited here, with feats of strength and address, in which M. Olivier is surpassed by no one. His sleight of hand will astonish the illiterate, and puzzle the most intelligent. Admittance, 1 franc. Spectacle de M. Comte. Mr. Comte’s Exhibition. [Rue de Grenelle, St. Honors, No. 55.] The amusements of this little theatre are similar to those of the preceding, and, if we may judge, from the crowded audiences, not inferior. It consists of sleight of hand and ventriloquism. M. Comte is supposed to be the first ventriloquist in Europe; and he has the happy COMBATS OF ANIMALS. 391 art of amusing his audience for nearly three hours by his individual and unassisted exertions. The entertainments commence at seven o’clock. Front seats, 5 francs. Second 'seats, 2 francs. Back seats, 1 franc. Ombres Chinoises de Sh'aphin. Serapliiii’s Chinese Shadows. [Palais Royal, Stone Gallery, No. 151, Boulevard du Temple.] The nature of this exhibition is well known. The story of the broken bridge and the enchanted forest, have amused all my readers in the years of childhood, and will still please from the association of early ideas. Front seats, 15 sous. Second seats, 12 sous. Back seats, 6 sous. Theatre de Marionnettes. Puppet Shows. [Boulevard du Temple.] The adventures of Punch and Joan, and his satanic majesty, are here represented with more than common humour. Combats des Animaux, Combats of Animals. [Near the Buirier St. Martin.] This singular and disgraceful spectacle is more fre- quented than is honourable to the humanity of the Parisians. It consists of an enclosure surrounded by a gallery, under which are the dens of various wild and ferocious animals. At a short distance are kennels COMBATS. OF AlSIAfALS. S9!2 containing fighting dogs of eveiT description. Any person who wishes to try the courage of his dog, may, for a certain gratuity, select an antagonist from the kennels. But on Sunday, and every festival, a public exhi« bition takes place, when it is crowded by gentlemen of a certain description, and by those whose education and rank in society should have taught them better feelings. The entertainments commence about five o’clock by various dog-fights. To these succeed bull-baiting, bear- baiting, wolf-baiting, and wild ass-baiting ; hyaenas, wild- boars, &c., are added to the sport. The humanity of the spectators, or the avarice of the proprietors, usually in- terferes to preserve the lives of the various animals, but they are often sadly worried and mutilated. The amuse- ment usually concludes, on grand festivities, with a lu- dicrous, but cruel scene. A bear is compelled to climb a poll. He is then surrounded with fire-works, which not only terrify him by their explosions, but evidently torture him by their flames. He is afraid to escape by one bold leap, and be is equally afraid to slide down through the fires which are blazing underneath him. The clumsy and grotesque attitudes by which he ex- presses his terror and his pain, excite shouts of pleasure from the greater brutes with which the galleries are thronged. The baited animals are fastened with ropes to a ring in the centre of the amphitheatre, and the keepers manage them with wondeifol dexterity. S93 HORS-E RACES. On the 8th and 12th of September there are horse races, in the Champs de Mars. The prizes are 50/. After a few day’s repose, the Paris winning horse runs against the best horse from the departments, for 2,000 francs, and on the following Sunday for 4,000. The amusement is much inferior to sports of this kind in England. LOTTERIES. Each lottery consists of 90 numbers, of which only live nominally, and in reality but four, are entitled to prizes. The system is simply this : Suppose you gain an extrait, which is when only one of the numbers you may have chosen comes up a prize, you gain fifteen times what you have placed. If two numbers come up, that is an aiiibe, 270 times what you stake. If three should also be prizes, your gains amount to 5,500 times what you have placed in the compartment ap- propriated to the terne. And should you have the ex- traordinary (but by no means unexampled) good for- tune to have your four numbers drawn prizes, you gain 75,000 times the sum you placed on the qimtenie. There are five national lotteries, viz. Paris, Strasbourg, Lyons, Lille, and Bourdeaux, each of which are drawn three times a month. MOUNTAINS. There were several of these novel places of amuse- ment in the French metropolis, and the eagerness with which they were resorted to, fully justified the specu- lation of the proprietors. 394 BALLS. The Swiss Mountain was in the Jardin Filard^ at the corner of the Boulevards Enfer and Mont-Parnasse. It was principally frequented by the inhabitants of the Faubourg St. Germain. On the summit of a wooden rock was a kind of coach-house for the cars, whence the company set out on a descent of about 200 feet. The Russian Mountains were situated in the Rue du Faubourg du Roule. The French Mountains were large and elegant structures. They were situated near the Barriere d’Etoile, in the centre of the garden of the Folie Beau- jon, and were the rendezvous of fashion. The Falls op Niagara were at the Jardin Rug- gieri. The Lilliputian Mountains were situated in the Jardin des Princes, Boulevard du Temple. The Mountains of Belleville were at Belleville. In consequence of several accidents having occurred at these mountains, the police suppressed them, but it is probable that they will again be opened. BALLS. In the native land of dancing, it may be expected that public balls and assemblies will be held every night, and almost in every street. A ball is given at the opera-house every Satm’day during the season, and sometimes on Thursdays. Ad- mittance, 6 francs. It usually commences about mid- night, and frequently continues until the bells toll for early matins. The company is usually masked, and many appear in fancy dresses. The utmost order and decorum prevail, although it is said that many a young man has cause to lament EXHIBITIONS ON THE WATER. .395 the seducing acquaintance which he has formed at this ball. Regular balls are given at the Olympic Theatre, Rue de la Victoire, No, 30, every Sunday and Thursday. Ticket, 5 francs. At the Hermitage, Rue de Provence, on Sunday, Ticket, 2 francs. Circus of the Muses, Rue St. Honore, opposite to Rue du Four, on Sunday. Ticket, 1 franc, 16 sous. Carre St. Martin, on Sunday. Ticket, 1 franc. Salon des Redoutes, Rue de Crenelle, St. Honore, on Sunday and Thursday. Ticket, 15 sous. The Garden of the Rdnces, Boulevard du Temple, on Sunday and Thursday. Ticket, 10 sous. And at The Grand Saloon, Rue Coquenard, on Sunday and Thursday, gratuitous. Jeux de Paume. The Tennis Court The several buildings erected for this amusement are situated as follows : — Boulevard du Temple. Rue Mazarine. Rue des Ecouffes. Rue de Crenelle, St. Honore. Rue Beaurepaire. Place St. Michel. Exhibitions on the y^ater. The watermen of the Seine formerly amused the people on every Sunday evening with rowing and sail- ing matches, opposite the Gros Caillou. The amuse- ments terminated with an exhilJition of fire-works, but they have been for several years discontinued. 396 GAMING HOUSES. Gaming Houses, The following is a detailed account of the public gaming-tables in Paris ; — STATE OF THE ANNUAL EXPENSES OF THE GAMES' Ar PARIS. Under the present administration there are 7 Tables of Trente et un, 9 Ditto of Roulette, 1 Ditto of Passe-dix, 1 Ditto of Craps, 1 Ditto of Hasard, 1 Ditto of Biribi. 20 Tables divided into nine houses; four of which are situated in the Palais Royal. To serve the seven tables of trente et un, there are Francs. 28 Dealers at 550 fr. a-raonth, make 15,400 28 Groupers at 380 ditto 10,640 42 Assistants at 200 ditto 8,400 Service for the nine Roulettes and one Passe-dix, 80 Dealers, at 275 fr. a-montli 22,000 60 Assistants, at 150 ditto 9,000 Service of the Craps, Biribi, and Hasard, 12 Dealers at 300 fr. a-month 3,600 12 Inspectors at 150 ditto 1,800 10 Aids at 100 ditto 1,000 6 Chefs de Partie at the principal houses, at 700 fr. a-month 4;200 GAMING HOUSES. 39*7 Francs. 3 Chefs de Partie for the lloulettes, at 500 fr. a-month 1,500 20 Secret Inspectors, at 200 fr. a-month 4,000 1 Inspector General, at 1,000 130 Waiters, at 75 fr. a-month 9,750 Cards, a-month 1,500 Beer and Refreshments, do 3,000 Lights do 5,500 Refreshments for the grand saloon, including two dinners every week, per month 12,000 Total expense of each month. , . .114,290 Multiplied by 12, is 1,371,480 Rent of 10 houses, per annum 130,000 Expense of offices 50,000 Total per annum. . . .1,551,480 If the privilege is - 6,000,000 If a bonus of a million is given for six years, the sixth part for one year will be 166,666 Total expenditure. . . .7,718,146 The profits are estimated at, a-month 800,000 Which yields per annum 9,600,000 Deducting the expenditure 7,718,146 The annual profits are 1,881,854 Which produce at the expiration of the lease . .11,291,114 M M 398 PROMENADES AND PUBLIC GARDENS. The Boulevards. The Boulevards were formerly the boundaries of | Paris; but, as that city gradually extended itself on every side, parts of them were at length found in the very centre of the population. They consist of a road, or rather of a superb street, as wide as Portland Place, with a row of elms on each side. This road extends through the whole of the city, and nearly round it, forming a circumference of almost seven miles. Little of the natural luxuriance of the elms is pruned ; and, arching over head, they form a pleasing shade. Some of the walks are carefully gravelled for the accommo- dation of foot-passengers; and on each side of the malls is an uninterrupted succession of noble mansions, splendid hotels, cafes, restaurateurs, theatres, shops, booths, tea-gardens, flower-gardens, and fountains. The Boulevards on the north, which are called the Great Boulevards, were planted in 1660. The trees have therefore attained a majestic size. Some of those on the south were not completed until 1761 ; but the walks are wider, and the trees more luxuriant. The Boulevards were formerly covered with turf, and were much resorted to for playing at bowls ; hence the deri- vation of the name, “ bouler sur le vert,” to bowl upon the green. The principal charm of the Boulevards consists in the gay and festive crowd which constantly fills them, and the inexhaustible fund of amusement which every step supplies. From noon until night they are the THE BOULEVARDS. S99 favourite resort of the Parisians of every description. In the heat of the day, and the early part of the evenr ing, the walks are lined with a double or treble row of chairs, occupied by various groups, reading, chatting, drinking, smoking, or gazing on the pedestrians. The Parisian petit-maitre is always to be seen here, care- lessly lolling with his legs on one chair, while a second supports his body, and his arm is, with studied negli- gence, thrown over a third. The chairs are hired at a sous each. At the side of the malls is a motley and indescribable group, which contributes not a little to the amusement and interest of the scene. Ballad-singers, dancing-chil- dren, and dancing-dogs, tumblers, posture-masters, conju- rors, puppet-showmen, merry-andrews, players, and for- tune-tellers, stand in long and interminable succession ; eachunweariedly exerting himself to please, and thankful for the few sous which are occasionally thrown to him. Intermixed with these, are stalls glittering with a gaudy display of toys and trinkets ; tables at which the scribe, with the pen of a ready writer, will indite a letter, or a memorial of any length, and on any subject; women, professing to perform every kind of operation on the dog, with their instruments ostentatiously arranged before them ; flower-girls by dozens, who will take no denial ; musicians, performing on every instrument which the art of man has invented, to please or torture the ear ; professors of natural philosophy, who con- trive to make their hydrostatic experiments sufficiently impressive on the visages and clothes of their auditors; manufacturers of orgeat and lemonade ; the sage di- viners of the lucky numbers of lottery-tickets ; men with castles inhabited by white mice, wiio play a tliou- sand antics in the different apartments; fortresses, guarded by a regiment of canary-birds, w'ho j)erforin their different evolutions with the precision of veterans; and last, not least, caricaturists, or grimaciers, who H .M 2 400 THE ELYSIAN FIELDS. change the human face divine into a rapid succession < of odd and inconceivably grotesque forms, which no ; risible muscles can possibly withstand. Towards night the crowd increases, and almost the whole extent of the northern Boulevards, from that of the Capuchins to St. Antoine, forms one closely- wedged moving mass. Dancing now commences in the booths, and the gardens by the side of the walks ; every angle and nook of the Boulevards, on which the crowd does not press, is occupied by a group lightly tripping to the music of some guitar or violin. The stalls are tastefully, if not splendidly, lighted up. Each ’ candidate for public favour displays his lamp or his candle, and redoubles his efforts to attract attention. The face of every passenger is clothed with smiles ; the Parisian has forgotten the vexations and fatigues of the day, and abandons himself to the dominion of pleasure. No city in Europe habitually presents so lively and amusing a spectacle. It is only exceeded by the carnival at Naples or at Venice. The southern Boulevards are not so much frequented, and will be visited by the stranger when he wishes for a pleasant and more solitary walk. Cham^ps Elysees, Elysian Fields. This vast enclosure was planted by Colbert, in 1670 , • and extends from the square of Louis XV., as far as Chaillot on the east, and to the extremity of the sub- urb of Roule on the west. The suburb of St. Honore borders it on the north, and the Queen’s Course on the south. Its principal walk extends from the square of Louis XV. to the bridge of Neuilly. Its entrance from the square is ornamented by two lofty pedestals supporting the figures of restive horses, by Coustou. Pew parts of Paris afford a view comparable to tliat THE queen’s course. 4-01 which this spot presents. In front is the Palace of the Thuilleries and its magnificent garden ; on the left are the noble hotels of the suburb of St. Honore j on the right is the river, and, behind, the picturesque barrier of Neuilly. This' vast extent of ground is planted with trees in various avenues, and composing different forms. The principal avenue of the Thuilleries, on the side of the terrace of the Feuillants, is now the most fre- quented spot. Swings are erected in various places ; numerous parties are at all hours joining in the grace- fill dance. The pavillions are filled with bourgeois enjoying themselves after the labour of the day ,* and every kind of pastime is displayed for the amusement of the promenaders. The Pavillon de Flore is a very handsome build- ing ; it is fitted up as a cafe, and contains an immense circular room for dancing, waltzing, &c. A good band is regularly kept there. It is well worthy the notice of the stranger. Cours de la Heine. The Queen’s Course. This, when the roads are not too dusty, is as pleasant a promenade as any that Paris affords. It is on the south of the Elysian Fields, and extends nearly a mile along the bank of the Seine, from the corner of the square of Louis XV. almost to the unfinished palace • of the King of Rome. It was planted by Mary de Medicis, in 1628 . The trees do not afford so much shade as might be expected, and in dry weather the dust is apt to be troublesome. There are four rows of trees, twelve feet from each other, forming a grand principal walk, and two smaller ones. M M S 402 LA VEILLEE, Alice des Neuves. The Widows’ Walk. An avenue of trees bearing this name extends from the star of the Elysian Fields to the west extremity of the Queen’s Course. It is crowded with guinguettes and tea-gardens, and is much frequented by the middle and lower classes of Parisians, One hotel, called Les Douze Maisons, is always filled. I, 5 1 Champ de Mars. The Field of Mars. This vast expanse reaches from the front of what was formerly the Military School to the banks of the Seine. It is bordered by a double avenue of trees, and sur- rounded by a fosse, and a lofty wide embankment. It was the scene of the celebrated Champ de Mai, at the close of the second usurpation of Buonaparte. The troops quartered in the city are frequently re- viewed here. Ten thousand men can easily manoeuvre in the Champ de Mars. Chariot, horse, and foot races are exhibited here on public festivals. A great propor- tion of the spectators are accommodated on the sur- rounding embankment, whence they have an uninter- rupted view of the sports, without the possibility of accident or danger. La Veillee, The Evening’s Rendezvous. [PZace du Palais. Square of the Palace.] This establishment, situated in the centre of Paris, presents a most interesting display of blooming verdure, even in the winter months, when the frost and snow seem to defy the powers of vegetation. It does not consist of a suite of apartments, where, notwithstanding TIVOLI. 403 variety of decoration, richness of furniture, and display of luxury, the observer is wearied with a continued monotony. The scenery changes at every step, and nothing has been omitted to render La Veillee a com- plete fairy-land. New and superb decorations, costumes the most brilliant, pleasing and variegated scenery, amusements without number, every thing here unites to rivet the attention, and give an additional zest to gaiety. Two orchestras are placed in the building for the accommodation of the youthful dancers ; even children are captivated with amusements adapted to their time of life ; while in two apartments, artfully constructed, are to be found those resources from reading and con- versation which are calculated to interest the mind of age. Within this fascinating edifice are also two thea- tres, in which are represented light and playful pieces. In a rustic cot a daiiymaid sells cream. In various grottos every cooling liquid is to be procured. A re- staurateur offers every kind of refreshment. Shops, playfully contrasted, exhibit arms and millinery, books and toys. Notwithstanding, however, all this display of diversi- fied allurements, the establishment was not capable of supporting itself. It is now seldom open, except at periods of public' rejoicings, and during the season of the winter balls. Tivoli, [Rue St. Lazare, No. 78.] This delightful garden is open only during the sum- mer. It has been termed the Vauxhall of Paris. It is infinitely superior to tliat celebrated j)lace in the day, but certainly yields to it in the decorations which it 404 PUBLIC GARDENS. presents at night. It has none of the formality of the English Vauxhall. The walks, bordered with roses, honeysuckles, and orange-trees, pleasingly wind in va- rious directions, discovering an interesting succession of objects at every turning. The lawns exhibit rope- dancers, mountebanks, grimaciers, groups riding at the ring, or playing at shuttlecock, and innumerable parties in the little bowers around, gazing on the amusements, and sipping their lemonade or orgeat. In the centre is a stage for dancing. The waltz is the favourite dance ; nearly two hunclred couples may sometimes be seen following each other through the giddy and voluptuous whirls of this fascinating but dan- gerous amusement. The visiter must bring his partner with him, or he will not easily meet with a fair one willing to admit a stranger to the freedoms which this dance allows. Several little canals intersect the garden. Several diminutive boats are on the bank, with which the visiter may amuse himself, while the shallowness of the v/ater secures him from every danger beyond that of a com- plete ducking. In the evenings these gardens are splendidly illumi- nated, — a tolerable concert is given, — additional bands of musicians await the command of the dancers, and an exhibition of fire-works takes place at ten. On gala and festival days, additional decorations and amusements are presented. The price of admission in the day is one franc, three francs at night, and five francs on festivals. Jardin Mm'hceuf, Garden Marbosuf. \Grille de Chaillot dans les Champs EhjsSes. Grate of Chaillot, in the Elysian Fields.] An Englishmanj of the name of Jansen, formed these PUBLIC GARDENS.- 405 pleasure-grounds after the taste of his native country. They combine much that is agreeable and picturesque. ia Muette, [T Ventrie du Bois de Boulogne, du CotS de Passy. At the entrance of the Wood of Boulogne, on the side of Passy.] In this garden are immense parterres, whence the prospect* reaches even to the mountains of Saunois. There are also the most refreshing groves, a very exten- sive and level lawn, orange-trees, and shady avenues to the principal routes through the wood. Jardin Biron, Garden of Biron. [Rue de Varennes, Faubourg St. Germain. Varennes Street, Suburb St. Germain.] In this delightful and extensive walk the stranger admires the agreeable variety and beauty of the flowers, the extreme neatness which is every where observable, the magnificence of its decorative arboirrs, and the fine kitchen garden that forms its termination. This garden is the rendezvous of elegant company ; and in the sum- mer there is dancing, and every amusement consonant with that season of the year. Jardin Turc, The Turkish Garden. [Boulevard du Temple.] This is one of the largest and most frequented tea- gardens on the Boulevards. A principal recommenda- tion is, that in most of the little iirbours or alcoves that 406 PUBLIC GARDENS. surround it, an uninterrupted view is obtained of amusements of the Boulevards, while the visiter is re- moved from the crowd and confusion. The garden is prettily laid out, and is brilliantly illuminated at night. Jar din des Princes. Garden of the Princes. This is almost contiguous to the preceding ; is as neatly and elegantly laid out, and boasts of its own company of rope-dancers and conjurors to attract and amuse the company. La Chaumihe. [Boulevard du Mont Parnesse.] This garden, situated on the southern Boulevards, is not inferior to the most attractive which the Boulevards of the north of Paris can boast. A little band of rope-dancers, tumblers, and pro- fessors of legerdemain, is engaged here to add to the attraction of the place. These are seen gratuitously, and the charge of refreshments is moderate. The gar- den contains a cafe, and a restaurateur. Vaujchall d^Eie. Summer Vauxhall. [Boulevard du Temple, near the Chateau-d’Eau.] This is open on Monday, Thursday, and Sunday. It has a pretty rotunda, and is famous for dancing ; but is far inferior to the establishment of the same name near London. PUBLIC GARDENS 407 Jar din Rnggieri. [Rue St..Lazare, No. 20.] Every advantage has been taken of the irregularity of the ground to render this garden most beautiful and picturesque. It is open every Sunday and Thursday, and the amusements bear much resemblance to those at Tivoli. The price of admittance on common days is 5 francs 60 cents, and 5 francs on grand festivals. It has a mountain, fof a description of which see the article “ Mountains.” Jardin des Marroniers, The Chesnut-Tree Garden. [Faubourg du Temple.] This garden, which possesses its regular, although not very numerous or skilful, orchestra, is principally frequented by the lower classes of Parisians. It may be worth visiting once, to observe the gay assemblage of mechanics, and their lasses, in their holiday clothes, and all of them displaying holiday countenances. It will not be difficult for the visiter to obtain a partner, if he is inclined to dance at the chesnut-tree garden. Wood of Vincennes. This park, which contains about 2,000 acres, is situ- ated a mile from the barriere du Trone, and was en- closed in 1183, by Philippe-Auguste, to contain the animals presented to him by the King of England; it is regularly planted in long walks. There is an oak, under which Saint Louis used to render justice to his subjects; and in the grand walks is a place where cannon are proved. 408 GUINGUETTES AND BASTRINGUES. Pi ^es-St.-Gervah, Nature has made this fit for a promenade as well as the wood of Romainville. On Sunday it is much frequented. Garden of Mouceaux^ [Rue de Man tone, No. 4, Faubourg du Roule.] This sweet garden was constructed in 1778, by Mr. Barmontel for the Duke d’ Orleans ; it is planted in the English taste. Gothic and Greek ruins, superb peri- styles, statues, obelisks, and every thing curious or ele- gant ornament this garden. Guinguettes et Bastringues, The guinguettes are the gardens in the suburbs or en- virons of Paris, to which the lower classes are accus- tomed to resort on Sundays and festival days, and re- gale themselves at a trifling expense. Provisions of every kind may be procured here, ready dressed. When a guinguette adds an orchestra and a room for dancing to its other attractions, it is called a Bastringue. The most celebrated are — the Grand Saloon, Fau- bourg Montmartre; the Hermitage, at the foot of Montmartre; Fanchon la Veilleuse, Boulevard du Mont Parnesse ; La Salon de Varlet, Boulevard de I’Hopital ; and the Great Rotunda, in the Elysian Fields. The stranger will probably occasionally look in at some of these places, for there he will form the most correct idea of the real characters and manners of the mass of the French people. ENVIRONS OF PARIS. ENVIRONS OF PARIS. Arcueil. — About three miles from Paris stands the village of Arcueil, on the little river Bievre, where is st magnificent aqueduct, the architecture of which may be compared with the finest specimens that Italy can afford, Mary de Medicis caused this fabric to be built after the designs of Jacques Desbrosses, to convey the waters of Rougis for the use of the inhabitants of Paris. The aque- duct consists of twenty arches. It is 400 yards in length, and 24 in height. At some distance on the road from Paris to Gentilly, are the ruins of an ancient aqueduct, which is said to have been erected by the Emperor Julian to convey wa- ter to his palace of Thermes, situated in the Rue de la Harpe, at Paris. A spring in the neighbourhood of Arcueil has the pro- perty of depositing a stony crust on small bodies immersed in it. Little pieces of wood, apples, and peaches, are frequently thrown into it, which in a short time assume the appearance of pleasing petrifactions. Cabriolets for Arcueil stand in the Street d’Enfer, near the Square of St. Michael. Argenteuil is a large market town, about six miles from Paris, nor is there any place in the environs of that capital so renowned in the page of history. Argenteuil is of very remote antiquity, and has frequently been the scene of fanaticism and bloodshed. Its abbey w as ren- dered conspicuous by having had for its prioress the far- famed Eloisa, as celebrated for beauty and wit as for her misfortunes. From Argenteuil, accompanied by some faithful sisters of the order, she retired to the Paraclete, which was given up to her by Abelard, when he removed to Ruys. Argenteuil is noted for the excellence of its N N 410 BAGATELLE, grapes and figs. Great crowds used" formerly to report to it, to see a robe of Charlemagne without seam, found in a wall, in which it had been concealed more than 200 years. Arnouville is a league from St. Denis, on the bank of the little river Cran. The park, which contains about 300 acres, is beautifully diversified with groves, lawns, cascades and sheets of water. The appearance of the village is much admired. All the streets centre in a spa- cious lawn, ornamented by a noble fountain. Asnieres is pleasantly situated on the banks of the Seine, a league and a half from Paris. It contains a great number of elegant country-seats, and particularly a chateau formerly belonging to the Comte d’Argenson, Auteuil. — This village, about three miles from Paris, dates its origin from very remote antiquity, and was for- merly celebrated for the excellence of its wines. If it has, however, lately lost much of its reputation on this score, it will never be deprived of the fame which it de- rives from having been the retreat of numerous persons eminent for their talents and their virtues ; among whom may be reckoned the satirist Boileau, the learned Hel- vetius, the inimitable La Fontaine, the witty Moliere, and the tragedian Racine. In the churchyard is a pleas- ing monument to the Chancellor d’Aguesseau. The fete is on August 15th, and concludes with a ball, and an exhibition of fireworks. The best restaurateur’s is at the Grille du Bois. Cabriolets for Auteuil stand at the quay of the Thuilleries, near the square of Louis XV. Bagatelle. — This beautiful structure stands on the borders of the Bois de Boulogne, and near the banks of BAGNOLET. 411 the Seine, about four miles from Paris. It was built by Bellanger, whose designs unite at once grandeur and grace. Three court-yards lead to the pavillion, from the innermost of whicli a flight of steps conducts to the grand entrance, splendidly embellished with columns. The sa- loon is ornamented with exquisite bas reliefs, and other specimens of art in the Italian style. On the left of this apartment is the bathing room, fitted up in the most taste- ful manner, and decorated with several large paintings from the pencil of Robert. The second apartment is a boudoir, embellished with six pictures by Collet. The mansion also contains a handsome billiard room. The fur- niture of the sleeping apartment is completely enmilitairCf consisting of trophies, and every attribute connected with war. The inscription on the portal gives the true cha- racter of the place. Parvased apta. The different win- dows present the most enchanting views in every direc- tion, comprising the windings of the Seine, the abbey of Longchanip, the bridge of Neuilly, and the Valerian Mount. The garden always delights by the variety and beauty of the objects which it presents. Temples, grot- tos, busts, are scattered with tasteful profusion, and nothing is wanting to complete the beauty of the scene. Bagatelle, which was the property of the Count d’ Artois, sufi'ered during the reign of i evolutionary fury ; but it has since been restored to all its original perfection, and is again become the property of its ancient possessor. Bagnel’x is pleasantly situated on a plain overlooking the road to Orleans, four miles from Paris. It contains numerous chateaux, the most superb of which belong to Messrs. Bailly and Cordier. Cabriolets for this place stand in the Rue d’Enfcr. Bagnolet is a mile and a half from Paris, on the road to Pantin, and has many pleasant country-houses. The fete of the patron faint is on the first Sunday in September. N N 2 412 BELLEVUE. Bellenille. — This village is at no great distance from the barriers of Paris, and its delightful situation has doubtless conferred upon it the name which it bears. Belville is erected upon an eminence which commands a noble view of Paris. The descent of the hill is deco- rated with pretty country seats, built in a style of simple, but elegant architecture, each possessing a terrace, whence the eye wanders over an immense tract of country, studded with hamlets and villages,. On the S. E. the gloomy towers of Vincennes rise above the forest, and on the west the spires of Paris are occasionally discerned through the openings of the ^ood. Not far distant is St. Gervais, one of the most beau- tiful country walks in the world. Strangers should walk here on Sunday, to see the motley and joyous crowd which the city then pours out. Bellevue. — Walking on the banks of the Seine, Ma- dame de Pompadour was so struck with the noble pro- spect which this spot affords, that she immediately de- termined to erect a chateau here, and make it her favourite residence. Louis XV., enchanted with the delightful situation of the place, prevailed on her to yield it to him. The architecture of the building is at once simple and grand. Nothing can exceed the beauty of the winter saloon. The park and gardens are tastefully laid out, particu- larly that denominated the English garden. The prospect to the north has little comparable to it in the environs of Paris. Plains and woods, hills and villages, are most agreeably interspersed. Paris and the Bois de Boulogne form an admirable contrast. The Seine, which, with beautiful meandrings, alternately appears and disappears from the view, seems to return from the remotest distance to water the hill of Bellevue. All that is enchanting in nature and in art is combined to embellish this deliglitful retreat. Bellevue was inhabited by the aunts of the late unfortunate monarch, and shortly after their departure from France it was transformed into a prison. The fiU'- BOIS DE BOULOGNE. 415 niture and all the exquisite works of art were wantonly defaced or destroyed, or sold. The saloon alone escaped the general destruction, being used by the commanding officer of the day as his apartment. Berci is charmingly situated on the banks of the Seine, two miles from Paris. The principal chateau is very superb. The park, laid out by the celebrated Lenostre, affords a delightful view of the Seine, the neighbouring villages, and the metropolis. The annual fete is on the Sunday after the 8th of Sep- tember, and is much frequented. Prizes are contested at archery, horse and foot racing. The cabriolets for Berci stand at the gate of St. Antoine. Bondi is two leagues from Paris, on the road to Meaux. It has many pleasant houses. The road is prettily stud- ded with the country residences of the Parisian mer- chants. Chilperic was assassinated in the neighbouring forest; and many marvellous and tragical tales of the atrocities committed in this neighbourhood are related by the peasants. Bois DE Boulogne. — The village of Boulogne, about six miles from Paris, was well known in the annals of su- perstition. Certain pilgrims, on their return from a holy journey to the chapel of Our Lady, at the seaport of the same name, founded a religious house here, and gave the present village, then called M^mes le St. Cloud, the ap- pellation which it now bears. It is from this village that the adjoining forest derives its name, being formerly called the Forest of Rouvnet. The name of the Bois de Boulogne would lead the tra- veller to expect lofty trees, and luxuriant foliage ; but much of the fine wood which once adorned it is destroyed, N N S 414 ; BRIE SUR MARNE. and it is now merely an extensive copse, thinly scattered with young plants. The annual procession, called the promenade of Long Champ, draws together the Parisians of every rank. In former times nuns from the neighbouring convent went in grand procession through the wood. It is now nothing but a long string of coaches, carts, cabriolets, and horse- men. Every one puts on all his finery, and seems deter- mined to be gay and merry. This v/ood is frequently the scene of the royal hunt : and to the English sportsman a more tame and ludicrous business can scarcely be conceived. The park is suffi- ciently enclosed on every side to prevent the possibility of the escape of the animal from its narrow limits; it has innumerable avenues of trees, and in every principal avenue a person is placed to watch the direction which the deer takes, and communicate the intelligence to the royal hunters. The sport, tlierefore, consists in gallop- ping up and down these walks, without the possibility of a leap in a run of many a mile. When the Prussians pitched their tents on this spot they destroyed much of the timber for fire-wood, during their encampment there. The wood or park is a fashionable morning ride for the Parisians. Bourg la Rhine. — This village is six miles south of Paris, on the road to Orleans. Henry IV. had a palace here, to which he retired as often as he could escape from the cares of government. This palace is now a seminary for the education of young ladies. The room in which the monarch used principally to reside is still shown. Cabriolets for the above place stand in the Rue d’Enfer. Brie sur Marne. — This village is beautifully situated on the summit of a little hill on the banks of the Marne, nine miles from Paris. The principal chateau is an ele- gant building. The park is extensive, and affords some extremely picturesque views. CHAILL OT. 4^15 Chaillot. — This benevolent institution is beautifully situated about tvi^o miles from Paris, commanding a most extensive view of the city, the Seine, and the Champ de Mars. The plan on which it is established is singular and excellent. Persons above seventy years of age can by right place themselves in it, to pass the remainder of their days in comfort and repose. In order to acquire this right, they must pay a subscription of ten-pence per month, from ten to thirty years of age ; one shilling and three-jjence from thirty to fifty ; and one shilling and eight-pence per month from fifty to seventy. These dif- ferent payments will amount to forty-five pounds. Should any person wish to become a subjscriber,who is more than ten years of age, he must, at the time of subscription, deposit the sum which would have been paid if the sub- scription had commenced at ten. The establishment usually contains about 100 persons of both sexes. Each has a separate bed-chamber, and a common parlour between every two, for the reception of their visiters and friends. Neatness and simplicity are the characteristics of these apartments. At one o’clock a plentiful dinner is served up in the hall for the whole society, and at seven they again assemble to supper. In case of sickness they are removed to a comfortable infir- mary, and provided with every medical assistance. At their decease they are decently interred at the expense of the society. Their time is at their own disposal. They may employ themselves in any occupation which does not interfere with the cleanliness or quiet of the house, and the profit of their industry furnishes them with pocket-money. There is no unreasonable restriction on any of their amusements. This establishment has the strongest claim on the at- tention of the stranger. Its plan is equally benevolent and wise. A subscription, so inconsiderable as to be scarcely noticed, much less felt, in the bustle of life, secures to old age and infirmity a respectable dwelling of independence, open to them as a rightf and as the fruit of their o wn prudence and economy. CHOISY. UG Chantilly, — This interesting place has been already described. Charenton is two leagues from Paris, on the road to Troyes. It contains a benevolent institution for the re- ception of lunatics, of which there are frequently nearly 400. An ancient castle in Charenton once belonged to the celebrated Gabrielle d’Estr4es. Most of the cha- teaux afford a pleasing prospect of the surrounding country. Chatillon is charmingly situated three miles S. E. of Paris. The prospect, although not very extensive, is pleasingly diversified, presenting the course of the Seine, Mount Valerian, Vincennes, the heights of Montmartre, and the city of Paris. It is crowded with chateaux. Its annual fete is on the Sunday following the 1st of May, Choisy is situated about five miles from Paris, on the banks of the Seine. It is defended by hills from the scorching winds of the south. The air is remarkably sa- lubrious, and the view is agreeable and picturesque. It contains more than three hundred elegant houses, built in the same style of simple architecture. A magnificent palace formerly decorated Choisy, which, after passing into the possession of several of the noblesse, was purchased by Louis XV. It was occasionally visited by Madame de Pompadour, accompanied by her royal lover. Of this sublime structure and its beautiful gar- dens not a vestige now remains ; but manufactories of earthenware, Spanish leather, and mineral-acids, occupy its site. The fete is at the end of August, and is superior to most in the neighbourhood of Paris. Boats go to Choisy from the bridge of the Garden of Plants, and cabriolets stand at the gate of St, Antoine. SAINT CLOUD. 417 Clichy is a pretty village about two miles from Paris, and lying between tbe right bank of the Seine and the road from St. Denis to Versailles. The ancient kings of France often resided here. Dagobert held a solemn council in his palace at Clichy. Saint Cloud. — The village and palace of St. Cloud are situated about five miles from Paris, on the banks of the Seine. This place derives its name from *very re- mote antiquity. Clodoald, or St. Cloud, grandson of Clovis, having escaped when his brothers were murdered, retired to this place to escape the persecution of his uncles, and founded a monastery at the village of No- gent, now called from him St. Cloud. The palace of St. Cloud is justly celebrated for its beautiful prospect, its gardens, its park, its cascades, and the master-pieces of painting and sculpture which it contains. It stands on a steep declivity overhanging the Seine, and commands an extensive prospect of mingled wildness and beauty. The situation is picturesque and romantic, and worthy of becoming the favourite residence of the monarchs of France. The entrance to the palace is by an extensive court, composed of a great range of buildings, and a facade 144 feet in length, andj72 in height. Two pavillions at the extremity form the commencement of two wings less elevated. The ascent to the state apartments is by the grand staircase to the left, the pillars and balustrades of which are composed of the choicest marble. The principal apartments are distinguished by the fol- lowing titles, and are embellished by corresponding or- naments. First, is the Saloon of Mars. It contains twenty columns of the Ionic order, and each composed of a single piece of marble. The paintings, by Mignard, are deservedly reckoned among his best. On one side are the Forges of Vulcan ; and on the other Mars and Venus, surrounded by the Loves and Graces. The ceiling repre- 418 ST. CLOUD. seiits the Assembly of the Gods, called by Vulcan to wit- ness his dishonour. The apartment to whicli this conducts is denominated the Gallery of Apollo. The painting of the ceiling is likewise by Mignard. It is divided into nine compart- ments. Apollo, or the Sun, is seen issuing from his palace, accompanied by the Hours, Aurora is seated in in her car, a Cupid scatters flowers before her, and the break of day chases the last constellations of the nlglit. The Seasons attend on this superb scene. Spring is re- presented by the marriage of Flora and Zephyrus; and Summer by the festival of Ceres 5 the sacrifice!' is in the act of immolating tlie victim. Autumn is described by the festival of Bacchus ; Ariadne and the rosy deity are seated in a car drawn by panthers. Winter is represent- ed by Boreas and his children ; Cybele implores the re- turn of the sun; and the ocean, although agitated by a storm, has its shores covered with ice. Some most mag- nificent porcelain vases are seen in this gallery, and a collection of paintings, yet interesting and valuable, al- though the hand of retribution has here likewise been felt, and many of the chef d’ oeuvres are restored to those from whom they had been unjustly purloined. Next is the saloon of Diana. The centre of the ceiling represents Night, and four other paintings describe the chase, the bath, the sleep, and the toilette of Diana. Some beautiful specimens of Gobelin tapestry will not be overlooked, particularly the one depicting the Rape of Helen. The ceiling of the saloon of Louis XVI. is painted by Munich, except the figure of Truth, in the centre, by Prudhorame. The damask hangings are of Lyonese ma- nufacture, and cost 2,5001. The saloon of the Princess was likewise painted by Munich. The tapestry, of arabesque design, cost 600/. The ceiling of the Grand Crimson Saloon is by Munich, except the figure of Aurora, in the centre, which is by Ducq. The hangings of crimson and purple velvet cost 4,500/., and the magnificent chandeliers are valued at 5001. each. All the apartments are adorned with a magnificenca STi CLOUD. ^19 becoming a royal residence. The late Empress Maria Louisa’s chamber is a fairy palace, and her boudoir the cabinet of the Graces. The gardens are universally admired. Nature and Art combine to render them highly picturesque and beautiful. Antique and modern statues, temples, altars, sheets of water, groves, and parterres of flowers, are tastefully arranged in every direction ; while an extensive and pleasing landscape opens to the view, and the w hole city of Paris displays itself, intersected by the Seine, whose innumerable windings give peculiar interest to the pro- spect. The most striking object is the cascade. It is divided into two parts. The upper cascade is 108 feet wide, and the same in height. Its head is decorated by sculptures of a river-god, and a naiad, representing the Seine and the Marne. The sheets of water which proceed from them unite as they fall into a great shell in the centre, whence flo^ nine other sheets, which, in their descent into a large basin, assume many fantastic forms. An alley divides the upper from the lower cascade. Three distinct sheets of water here fall into a circular basin, thence into a second and a third, and lastly into a canal ornamented with a variety of jets. In the intervals be- tween the cascade are enormous leaden figures, repre- senting dolphins, frogs, «Sfc., which spout large quantities of water to an immense distance. In one place a number of jets intersect each other in a pleasing manner, and on the right a single jet rises to the height of 97 feet. St. Cloud is much frequented, especially on the Sun- day. An auherge at the foot of the bridge afibrds rest and refreshment. This place was the favourite residence of Buonaparte. Here he projected all his plans for the glory of France and the subjugation of the world j and here the second capitulation of Paris w as signed, which for ever blasted his schemes of aggrandizement, and eventually devoted him to imprisonment on the rock of St. Helena. The annual fete is on the three first Sundays after the 7th of September. The gardens are then filled with booths of every description, and the whole population of Paris 420 ST. DENIS. crowds to a scene at all times delightful, and now en- livened by joy and festivity. Cabriolets for St. Cloud stand at the quay of the Thuilleries. CouRBEVOiE. — This village contains many pleasant country-seats, and a magnificent barrack for the royal guard. It is situated on one of those delightful eminences which diversify the left bank of the Seine, and is about four miles from Paris, on the road to St. Germain. Saint Cyr.' — This village, situated about three miles from Versailles, was long celebrated for an Institution established by Louis XIV., under the title of the Royal Society of St. Cyr, for the education of the female no- bility. Its first abbess was the famous Madame Main- tenon, who there ended her days. This institution was abolished after the Revolution, and the building appro- priated to the reception of wounded soldiers. It has since been converted into a school of public instruction. Saint Denis. — This city, about six miles from Paris, derives its name from the cathedral so called. A noble Christian lady named Catullis, caused a chapel to be built near the spot on which the present church stands, wherein she deposited the remains of the martyred St. Denis and his companions, which she had purchased from the executioner. The chapel was successively en- riched by Clotaire, Chilperic, Dagobert, and numerous ancient monarchs, until it arrived at the acm6 of its great- ness. This once beautiful cathedral was, during the Re- volution, reduced almost to a heap of ruins. The tombs of Gueselin and Turenne, the oriflamb of Clovis, the sceptre and sword of Charlemagne, the portrait and sword of the maid of Orleans, the bronze chair of Dago- bert, and an immense number of reliques and curiosities FONTAINEBLEAU. 421 disappeared. Tlie royal dead were torn from the reposi- tories of departed greatness, the bones of heroes were made the playthings of children, and the dust of monarchs was scattered to the wind. Towards the close of the reign of the late emperor this venerable structure was repaired. The royal vaults were cleared and improved. The subterranean chapels were re-esta])lished,and fitted up with exquisite taste ; and the church of St. Denis will probably ere long resume its an- cient majesty. Two expiatory altars have been erected on the right ; one for the race of Merovingian monarchs, the other for the descendants of Charlemagne. On the left is an altar consecrated to the kings of the third dynasty, whode names are inscribed on a beautiful column. The annual fete is on the 7th of October. Cabriolets for this place stand in the Rue du Faubourg St. Denis. Epinay-sur-Seine. — This village is pleasantly situated two miles from Paris, on the road to Rouen. The kings of the first dynasty had a country residence here. Dago- bert assembled a great council of the nobles, and died in the palace : the remains of which are scarcely visible. Among the numerous chateaux, that of Comte Lac^pede is the most beautiful. Fontainebleau. — About forty miles from the capital stands the palace of Fontainebleau, a spot mentioned in some of the earliest records of France. The edifice, which is a large irregular building, composed of nume- rous squares, is much indebted for its magnificence to the refined taste of Francis I., who was greatly delighted with this charming retreat. Henry IV. also contributed to its further embellishment. It has experienced the effects of revolutionary anarchy. There is, however, sufficient left to compensate for a visit to this sumptuous residence ef some of the most accomplished and cele- 422 SAINT GERMAIN-EN-LAYE. l>rated sovereigns that wore the crown of France. It , will long be celebrated as the place where the abdication of the throne of France and Italy was signed by Buona- parte, April 3, 1814. The palace is situated in a small plain in the centre of the forest of Fontainebleau, and where that forest most exhibits its peculiar wildness and grandeur. No part of France can boast of more picturesque and romantic sce- nery than the neighbourhood of Fontainebleau. Fontenay is six miles S. E. of Paris. The metros polls is supplied with the greater part of its roses and) other flowers from the neighbourhood of this villaffe. In the latter montlis of spring the country round Fonte- nay is completely covered with flowers. ' Cabriolets for this place stand in the Rue d’Enfer. | I t 1 Gentilly. — This village, situated on the banks of the ^ little river Bi^vre, a mile from the barrier of Italy, is one of the most ancient in the environs of Paris. The kings ( of the first dynasty had a palace here, and the beautil'ul j Diana of Poictiers long inhabited a chateau in the neigh- jj bourhood. These royal residences are now no more ; but p numerous country-houses are seen, and the guinguettes d are crowded on every festival, T1 Saint Germain-en-Laye. — Twelve miles from Paris stands the city of St. Germain-en-Laye, which derives ■ f,( its name from the adjoining forest of Laye. It is, like many other places in the environs of the capital, of the greatest antiquity. The old palace was appropriated to the receive the kings of France when they took the diver- sion of the chase in the forest of Laye, the lai'gest and finest in the kingdom, containing 5,700 acres, Henry IV, built what was called the New Palace, which is now ISSY, 423 converted into a military school. The situation is pecu- liarly beautiful. The palace stands on the edge of a : steep declivity hanging over the Seine, and a terrace . stretches from it along the heights that border the river i for more than a mile. The declivity is clothed with I vineyards and fruit-trees. Beyond the Seine is an ini- ' mense plain, diversified with chateaux and woods, with the towers of St. Denis in the remote distance. Behind i is the noble forest of St. Germain. The city of St. Germain-en-Laye is well peopled, the houses commodious, the streets wide and well paved, with several fine squares. It consists of one parish only, and, prior to the Revolution, contained some celebrated religious houses. That of Peres des Logis, situated in the forest, is well worthy of observation. It was founded by Anne of Austria, the consort of Louis XIII., in 1644. The Hotel de Noailles likewise deserves the stranger’s attention; it was built on a very grand scale, from the design of Mansard. St. Germain was for many years the residence of James II., after he abdicated the Eng- lish crown. He ended his days here in 1700, w'orn out with grief and the vicissitudes of fortune. The flte is held in September ; and, next to that of St. Cloud, is one of the most frequented in the environs of Paris. It is held in the forest; and the peculiarity of the situation gives to it a highly plqasing and picturesque ap- pearance. It concludes with the favourite amusement of the French, a splendid ball. Cabriolets for St. Germain stand at the quay of* the Thuilleries. IssY is a village situated on a little hill about a mile from Paris, and not far from the Seine. It derives its name from an ancient temple dedicated to Isis, no vestige of which now remains, except some Roman building in the cellars of the seminary of St. Sulpice may be consi- dered as part of it. The ancient palace of Cliildebert yet stands on an eminence opposite to the church, and is an interesting Gothic structure. Here the admirable actress Mademoiselle Clairon rc- « o LUCIENNES. 424 sided, and was often visited by the most celebrated characters of the times. It was here that the Cardinal ue NoailJes, Bossuet, Fenelon, and Tronson assembled, to hold those meetings known under the name of the Conferences of Issy. IvRY is on the summit of one of the little hills that enrich the left bank of the Seine. It is crowded with country-seats; the most elegant of which belongs to Comte Jaubert. The annual fete is on the first Sunday in May. Livry is twelve miles from Paris, on the road to Meaux. The chateau was once a place of strength and importance. Louis-le-Gros besieged it in the w'ars which he carried on against the Count of Champagne. He mounted to the assault himself, and was wounded in the thigh by a pike. This redoubled the ardour of the be- siegers, and the place was taken and dismantled. Mal- herbes and Madame de Savigny inhabited Livry. It was under its delightful shades that this amiable woman composed those letters to her daughter, which are a model of elegance and delicacy. Luciennes. — This chateau, near the machine of Marly, and ten miles from Paris, was built by Le Doux, in three months, for the residence of Madame du Barry. The delightful prospect which the place affords, the talents of the architect, the sculptures, the paintings and decora- tions, all united to make Luciennes a model of magnifi- cence, elegance and beauty. Since the Revolution, how- ever, almost every moveable has been sold, the bas-re- liefs have been mutilated, the fine cornices broken, and the hand of anarchy has left its destructive traces on every work of art. The entrance presents a peristyle of four pillars with niches, in which are marble statues, and a bas-relief re- MARLY. 425 presenting a group of Bacchanalian Children. From the sumptuous saloon the eye is gratified by the view of an extensive tract of country. On the left is St. Germain, on the right Paris, and in front Vesinch and St. Denis, with the river Seine in all its delightful meanderings. Malmaison. — This building, which was long the resi- dence of Buonaparte, is by no means well constructed. It contains too many apartments, but they are all deco- rated with the finest specimens of painting and sculp- ture. A few years since two pavillions were built at the entrance of the avenue conducting to the edifice. It is surrounded by a park, and has fine gardens attached to it, containing seventy-five acres. The gardens are well watered, and their situation extremely picturesque. Previously to Napoleon’s possessing this mansion, it was falling to ruin, but it has been completely repaired by Percier and Fontaines. The Abb6 Delille has immortal- ized the rivulet of Malmaison. It is not, however, the stream which flows through the gardens that has em- ployed his pen, but a little rivulet winding through a long avenue of spreading chesnut-trees. Saint Mande. — This village is composed almost en- tirely of the country houses of the Parisian merchants, and has a very pleasing appearance. The annual f&le is on the l5th of August. Cabriolets for St. Mande stand in the square of the Bastile. Marly. — About ten miles from Paris is the village of Marly. At the foot of a superb cascade, and below the most delightful gardens, formerly stood a sumptuous chateau, the residence of Louis XIV. It was demo- lished during the reign of revolutionary fury. On its site now stands a cotton-mill. The park and gardens, o o 3 426 MEUDON. however, still retain much of their original beauty, and will not disappoint the traveller’s expectations. The principal curiosity of the place is the machine of Marly, to supply Marly and Versailles with water from the Seine* It was constructed by Renneguin Sualem. It raises the water to the astonishing height of 600 feet, and discharges nearly 30,000 hogsheads in twenty-four hours. The limits of our work will not permit us to give any adequate description of this complicated machine. Proper j/ersons are stationed on the spot, who will ac- company the traveller, and give him every necessary in- formation. Saint Maur is situated a short league from Paris, in a peninsula formed by the river Marne. It is celebrated in history on account of the massacre of the Christians by the troops of Attila. The witty and licentious Rabelais here composed his Pantagruel. In this place the Bro- thers of the Passion first performed their mysteries. The chateau was built by Catherine de Medicis. The front.towards the garden still retains its ancient archi- tecture, but the rest of this palace is modern, and deco- rated in the most sumptuous manner ; while the gardens which were embellished by the famous Le Notre, are laid out in a style that confers honour upon his acknow- ledged talents. A canal has been commenced here, to shorten the na- vigation of the Marne. The tunnel through a hill more than half a mile in length is almost completed. The annual fete is on the 10th of August, and affords every kind of amusement. Cabriolets for St. Maur stand at the gate of St. Antoine, and at the square of the Bas- tile. Meudon. — About six miles from Paris stands the vil- lage of Meudon, dating its origin from the earliest pe- riod of antiquity. The palace stands upon an eminence commanding an extensive view of Paris and its environs. The stranger arrives at the edifice by a very fine avenue, MONTMARTRE. 427 at the end of which is a superb terrace, serving as a court-yard to the building, which was originally erected by the Cardinal de Lorraine, in the 16 th century, after the designs of Philibert de Larma. When Monsieur de Louvois became the possessor of Meudon, he employed Mansard to superintend the formation of the terraces, moats, and the grand entrance of iron-work. The front of the palace presents a most majestic coup d’eeil. It is ornamented with arcades and pilasters. The centre pavillion, which is rounded off at the extremities, projects from the main facade of the edifice, and is adorn- ed with a second order of pilasters and bas-reliefs, repre- senting the four seasons. The whole terminates with a pediment, upon which are two recumbent statues, and an octagonal vaulting wdiich supports a terrace. The apart- ments of this palace are numerous, and decorated in the most sumptuous manner ; while the g-ardens, which were embellished by Le Notre, are laid out in the very best style of that celebrated French gardener. Delille has immortalized them in his beautiful poems. The view from the terrace is one of the most interesting in the neighbourhood of Paris. The village of Meudon is very mediocre, and would indeed be altogether unwrorthy observation, were it not rendered conspicuous from having had the celebrated Rabelais for its curate, before his removal to St. Maur. Meudon is much frequented by the Parisians in the summer. Cabriolets for this place stand in the square of Louis XV. Montmartre is a village on a hill at a short distance N. N. W. of Paris. Its name was probably derived from a temple dedicated to Mars, the remains of which w ere to be seen here two centuries ago. Many persons, how- ever, trace its name to the martyrdom of St. Denis, whicli took place liere. It is remarkable for its limestone quarries, and the windmills which crown the top of the lull. The inhabi- tants of Paris often climb this hill to admire the distinct and complete view which it afibrds to their city. 428 PONT T)E NEUILLY. Montmartre contains many pleasant country-houses, and numerous guinguettes. Montmoiiency is a little village ten miles from Paris, placed on an eminence which gives it an extensive pro- spect and a salubrious air. All that remains of the mag- nificence of the dukes of Montmorency is found in the church, which affords a perfect specimen of Gothic ar- chitecture. Montmorency was the residence of J. J. Rousseau. It is much frequented by the Parisians on every festival. The White Horse is the best inn. Cabriolets for Mont- morency stand at the gate of St. Denis. Moulin Joli. — ^The gardens of Moulin Joli, in some little islands of the Seine, five miles from Paris, well de- serve the traveller’s attention. Nanterre is seven miles from Paris, on the road to St. Germain’s. It is celebrated for its excellent sausages and cakes ; but more so. as the birth-place of the humble shepherdess who became the patron saint of Paris. Pont de Neuilly. — This village, situated upon the banks of the Seine, on the road from Paris to St. Ger- main, has acquired much celebrity on account of its mag- nificent bridge, delightful gardens, and the interesting views which it commands. In 1606 there was only a ferry at this village, but an event which nearly termi- nated the lives of Henry IV. and his suite, led to the construction of the bridge. The monarch was returnieg from St. Germain with his queen, and several of his no- blesse. On approaching the river, the horses, frightened by ST.- OUEN-SUR-SEINE. 4.29 a thunder-storm, precipitated themselves into the water, dragging the vehicle into the deepest part ; and had not the most timely assistance been given, that great king and his companions must inevitably have perished. The bridge which was built upon this occasion only lasted thirty-five years ; after which period the present superb structure was planned and executed, being 750 feet long, and composed of five arches, each 120 feet wide, and .^0 feet in height. It was erected after the design of Peronnet. It was opened with great ceremo- ny in 1772, in presence of a vast concourse of people, and Louis XV. was the first who drove over it in his carriage. This spot has to boast of many noble houses, which belong to the opulent and fashionable inhabitants of the French metropolis. The numerous little streams which descend from the hill contribute much to the em- bellishment of the gardens. The annual fete is on the 24th of June. Cabriolets for Neuilly stand at the quay of the Thuil- leries. Nogent-sur-Marne is a large village agreeably situ- ated on the summit of one of the little hills that border the Marne, six miles from Paris. The annual fete is on Whitsunday. The Parisians deliver themselves up to amusements and pleasures of every kind, and prizes are distributed to the most skilful archers. Cabriolets for Nogent stand at the gate of St. Antoine. Noisy-le-Sec. — This village is beautifully situated on an eminence, five miles eastward of Paris. It contains a great number of agreeable chateaux. St. Ouen-sur-Seink.^ — Should the traveller pass through this village, which is about five miles from Paris, oo the banks of the Seine, he will acknowledge that, al- 4-30 PLESSY-PIQUET. though it is situated on a plain, the number of chateaux, the pleasing views of the river which they command, and the picturesque arrangement of the gardens, render i it one of the most inviting retreats for the rich merchants i and citizens of Paris. I On the a4th of August a fair is held here, which con- tinues three days, and is much frequented by the Pa- i risians. Passy, — ^I'his delightful village is situated upon an eminence on the banks of tiie Seine, a short league from the centre of Paris. Its vicinity to the capital, the Bois de Boulogne, and the river, renders it peculiarly in- teresting. It is likewise esteemed for its mineral waters, ' the salubrity of its air, and the most charming views in every direction. In this village are many handsome houses, one of which was the residence of the celebrated Dr. Franklin after his return from America. At the extremity of Passy is a spacious esplanade covered with turf, whence the view of several fine structures present a most agreeable con- trast with the wavy verdure of the Bois de Boulogne, which in this direction assumes a very picturesque ap- pearance. PiERREFiTTE. — This village is seven miles on the north of Paris, on the road to Beauvais. It is situated on the declivity of a small hill, and contains the chateau of M. Faucompvet de Vieuxbanc, celebrated for its valuable collection of rare and beautiful plants. Pi.ESSY-PiQUET is eight miles south of Paris, on the road to Chatillon. The castle belonging to the Due de Massa is worth seeing. The terrace commands a noble prospect, extending as far as Paris. The annual fete is on the 24th of July. The peasants assemble on a beautiful lawn, and amuse ROSNY, 431 tlieuuelves with dancing, and various recreations. Ca- briolets for Plessy stand in the Rue d’Enfer, t .. PuTEAUx is five miles eastward of Paris. The neighs bourhood of the village is one uninterrupted garden, delightful both to the eye and smell. It is celebrated for its early vegetables and asparagus. Some beautiful chateaux adorn the banks and islands of the Seine. Rincy is thirteen miles from Paris, on the road to Strasburgh. The chateau, belonging to the late Duke of Orleans, has been demolished, and its ruins lie scattered around. The park and gardens have been much ne- glected, but still they retain many beauties; and the rural scenery by which they are surrounded cannot fail to delight. The skilful disposition of the mirrors in some of the apartments, so as to reflect the charming scenery around, will not escape observation Romainville. — The wood in the neighbourhood of this village is a favourite resort of the Parisians. The chateau in the wood, the grounds of which are pleasingly ornamented by numerous basins and canals, belonging to M. Cardon. Another chateau, more delightfully si- tuated, with numerous plantations tastefully laid out, belongs to General Valance. The annual fete is cele- brated with much pomp on July 31st. The cabriolets stand at the gates of St. Denis and St. Martin. Rosny is eight miles from Paris, in tlie direction of Montreuil. The prospect from the castle is universally admired. Like many of the villages in tlte neighbour- 432 SEVE, OR SEVRE. hood of Paris, it is principally devoted to the cultivation of vegetables. Ruelle. — This is a large village seven miles "west of Paris, situated at the foot of a delightful hill, and con- taining 3,000 inhabitants. The chateau and park are very magnificent, and the barracks are some of the no- blest in the vicinity of Paris. Cabriolets for this place stand at the quay of the Thuil- leries. ' Runges. — This village is eight miles from Paris on the road to Fontainebleau, and is principally remarkable as the source of the waters which the aqueduct of Arcueil conveys to Paris. ScEAUx is six miles south of Paris, on the road to Orleans. It formerly contained a magnificent castle, belonging to the duke of Penthievre, the very ruins of which have almost disappeared. Part of the garden re- mains, and is a favourite promenade of the Parisians. The market, by which Paris is principally supplied with cattle, is held here every Monday. On every Sunday, from the 1st of May to the 1st of November, the park and garden are crowded by the middle and lower classes of the Parisians. Dancing commences in the evening, in a spacious rotunda, and is continued until a late hour. The cabriolets to Sceaux stand in the street d^Enfer, Seve, or Sevre. — Six miles from Paris, on the banks of the Seine, and near the park of St. Cloud, is the cele- brated porcelain manufactory of S#vre. For brilliancy of colour, and delicacy of execution, the porcelain of Seve is perhaps unrivalled. The visiter will meet w ith every attention at the manu- factory, An extensive range of apartments, crowded 7 TRIANON- -13S ^ith the most beautiful articles, is open to his inspection. Tlie^nimutest examination is allowed, and the price affixed to each article. Cabriolets for Sevre stand at the quay of the Thuille- ries, near the square of Louis XV. Stains. — This village is eight miles north of Paris. The chateau of M. de Livry is worth visiting, not only on account of its pleasant situation, although the country round it is comparatively flat, but for an extensive collection of aquatic birds, and the rarest and most beautiful species of deer. SuRENE is a large village, six miles eastward of Paris, situated on the declivity of a hill, on the banks of the Seine. The festival of the Rosiere is held here, on the first Sunday after the fete of St. Louis. It is said, however, that the stranger should be cautious what wine he drinks at Surene. Cabriolets for Surene stand in the square of Louis XV, Trianon is within the enclosure of the park of Ver- sailles, on the right of the great canal, and was built by Mansard, at the command of Louis XIV., on the spot where the village of Trianon formerly stood. The front is 384 feet in length. Between the windows are elegant pilasters of Languedoc marble, of the Ionic order. Two wings are terminated by two pavillions, which are united by a peristyle, composed of twenty-two columns of red marble. The roof, in the Roman style, is sur- rounded by ballustrades, ornamented with vases and groups of little Cupids. The interior of the palace corresponds with its ex- terior embellishments. The- gallery and the billiard- room contain some exquisite views of the scenery of the gardens and park. The gardens form the principal 434 VAUGIRARD. charm : they are tasteful and luxuriant beyond descrip- tion. Every beautiful shrub and flower of every climate blooms here : it is in truth a fairy scene. It used to be said of the three principal gardens planted by Louis XIV., that Versailles was the garden of waters ; Marly the garden of trees ; but Trianon the garden of flowers. Petit Trianon. — [Little Trianon .'] — This small pa- lace, situated at one of the extremities of the park of Great Trianon, consists of a pavillion, in the Roman style, forming a complete square. Each front measures about eighty feet in length, consisting of two stories above the ground-floor. Each front exhibits a ditferent specimen of architecture. The whole is decorated with tlie Co- rinthian ordei>and crow ned with a fine ballustrade ; the columns and pilasters being fluted from the top to the bottom. The most delicate and finished taste is ob- servable in the construction of this edifice, which was built by Gabriel, at the command of Louis XV. The several suites of apartments display a corresponding grandeur. The pleasure-grounds consist of gardens, laid out in the English and French taste; being diver- sified with statues, orangeries, a musical saloon, grottos, temples, cottages, cascades, and canals. The gardens are now, however, going to decay. The little Temple of Love, among artificial rocks, and embowered amid the thickest trees, has been pillaged. The cottages are dilapidated, and the lake is almost dry. This little palace was the favourite resort of the un- fortunate Marie Antoinette. Vaugirard. — This is a pretty village on the west of • Paris, and immediately under its walls. It is filled with guinguettes, to wdiich the Parisians resort on every festival. VERSAILLES. 435 Versailles. — This celebrated city, about twelve miles from Paris, was formerly but an inconsiderable village, the surrounding country being successively acquired by Louis XIII. and XIV. from the bishop of Paris. The latter monarch caused the estate to be apportioned into different lots, which he divided among numerous indi- viduals, who were compelled to erect on each allotment an appropriate residence. Such was the origin of this city, which owes its lustre to Louis XIV., who certainly placed it on a par with cities of the secondary order. The palace stands upon an elevated spot, being com- pletely isolated, and affords a remarkable instance of the persevering spirit of that monarch, who, in this under- taking, appeared anxious to render even Nature herself subservient to his views. The period of seven years was employed in completing the palace, park, and gar- dens. They were commenced in 1673, and finished in 1680, as appears from a medal engraved upon this occasion by the Royal Academy of Inscriptions and the Belks Lettres. Tiie palace was erected after the plans and under the inspection of Mansard. On either side of an avenue are edifices for different officers of the suite ; and the great and small stables, which are remarkable for the regularity and taste which they display, as well as choice specimens of sculpture. This avenue conducts to the square of arms, having traversed which, the traveller arrives at the first court, called the court of the ministers, being erected for their reception. Hence he proceeds to that of the palace, which terminates with the marble court, so called from being paved with squares of variegated marble. The buildings which surround this square, together with a portion of those in the former court, constituted part of the old palace, built by Louis XIII. Two arcades con- duct to the northern and southern terraces. On this side of the palace is a vestibule decorated with the Ionic order, the ceiling being in compartments. This vestibule leads to the chapel, the opera, and the small comic theatre. Having examined this quarter of the building, the traveller proceeds along the northern terrace between p p 2 436 VERSAI1.LES. large pieces of water, and at length has a complete view of the decorations and extent of tiie palace. It is more than 800 feet in length, consisting of a first story and the attic, decorated with Ionic pilasters, with fifteen projecting buildings, supported by isolated columns of the same order, and ornamented with statues, repre- senting the seasons, the months, and the arts. Above the attic is an entablature after the Roman taste, surmounted by balustrades, decorated with vases and trophies. The entrance into the interior is by a marble staircase, whither the stranger repairs by the arcade of the chapel, proceeding along the gallei-y that conducts to the vestibule, and passing by the depot containing the archives of the department. On entering the fine range of apartments, the traveller will no longer be gratified with a view of all the paint- ings and ornaments which formerly constituted their principal beauty ; many of them were conveyed to Paris to embellish the national museum, and others have since been restored to those to whom they rightfully belonged ; but Versailles can yet boast of some of the best works of the greatest masters of the French school, and the splendid decorations of most of the saloons can- not fail to please. As the traveller enters by the staircase on the north terrace, the first apartment into which he is ushered is called the Saloon of Hercules. This chamber, which is the admiration of every spectator, and forms the glory of the French school, is indebted for its magnificence to the taste of Louis XV. It is sixty-four feet long, and fifty wdde. It is decorated by twenty Corinthian pilas- ters of marble, the pedestals of w hich are brass, and the capitals of gilded metal supporting a burnished cornice ornamented with trophies. The pedestals are supported by green marble, and the pannels of Autin marble. The ceiling, the production of F. le Moin, is one of the finest compositions that exists. Olympus itself appears to open, displaying all the deities of the heathen mythology, with their respective attributes. Nine groups and three compartments represent the labours and apotheosis of Hercules, These groups, consisting of 142 figures dc- VERSAILLES. 43 ’? tached froiA the ceiling in a most extraordinary manner, are enclosed in a fictitious attio of veined white marble, with violet-coloured pannels, while over them is the cor- nice, crowned with oak garlands, in imitation of stucco. In this saloon are also two celebrated pictures of Paul Veronese. The first, presented to Louis XIV. by the republic of Venice, is fourteen feet high, and thirteen long, and represents our Saviour at the house of Simon the Pharisee. The second, over the marble chimney- piece, decorated with bronze, is nine feet and a half high, and nine feet nine inches long, representing Rebecca receiving from Eliezer the gifts of Abraham. The frames of these pictures, which are the workmanship of Vassee, seem incorporated with the marble, and are supported by gilt brackets. In the centre of this apartment is placed the statue of Cupid bending fiisxbow, which for- merly adorned the Temple of Love at Petit Trianon. The second saloon is called the Hall of Plenty, the ceiling of which was from the pencil of Hourasse. It contains many good pictures of Chevalet. At the extre- mity of the chamber the goddess appears seated on a pe- destal, which is surrounded by a railing. On either side appear two statues, representing Apollo and Ganymede. The third is the Saloon of Diana; the ceiling of which was decorated by Blanchard, and displays the moon, under the figure of Diana, seated on a car drawn by two hinds, and accompanied by the Hours, together with the attributes of hunting and navigation. There are four other paintings by Audran and Lafosse, the latter of whom executed the beautiful representation of the sacri- fice of Iphigenia, which hangs over the chimney-piece. Beneath is a has relief in white marble, by the famous Sarrasin, representing the flight into Egypt. The grand staircase, so much celebrated for the beauty of its construction, and the noble paintings wdth which Le Brun has enriched it, communicates with this hall. The fourth saloon is that of Mars. The talents of Audran were exerted in the decoration of the ceiling, on which the god is displayed in his car, surrounded by millitary attributes, and drawn by wolves. The figures of Terror, Fury, and Revenge, in another compartment p p 3 438 VERSAILLES. of the ceiling, are by Hoin asse ; and those of Victoi y and Hercules, by Jouvenet. Two statues, representing Health and Sickness, which formerly decorated Trianon, now contribute to embellish this apartment. Next is the Saloon of Mercury. The ceiling was painted by Philip Champagne after the designs of Le Bran, and represents the god in his car, environed by characteristic figures. Four other paintings by the same artist ornament this apartment. A magnificent cabinet, formerly designed to enclose some precious relics, will ' particularly attract the attention. A curious clock, by Morand, is likewise shewn. Two crowds crow the quar- ters, and two slaves strike the hours on large globes, which project for the purpose. A beautiful set of chimes then begin to play, during which a door opens in the centre, a figure of Louis XIV. presents itself, surrounded with a Glory, and Victory places a crown of laurel on its head. The Saloon of Apollo comes next in succession. The ceiling, painted by Lafosse, displays that divinity in his chariot, accompanied by the Seasons, Flora, Ceres, Bac- chus, and Saturn. The figures of France, Magnanimity, and Munificence, which follow the car, shew that the painter has represented Louis XIV. under the figure of the sun. The paintings round the cornice are Augustus con- structing the port of Misenum; Vespasian building the Coliseum ; Coriolanus yielding to the tears of his mother ; and Alexander restoring his conquered kingdom to Porus. The supporters of the ceiling are formed of dark green marble. The Saloon of Bellona forms the entrance into the great gallery, or may be said to constitute a part of it. The ceiling is the work of Le Brun. Bellona is in her car draw n by wild horses, which are trampling under feet men and arms. A warrior, in a menacing attitude, goes before her; Discord follows with her flaming torch ; and Charity, carrying an infant, flies in terror. On a fictitious cliinniey-piece is an oval bas-relief 7 VERSAILLES. 439 twelve feet in height, the workmanship of N. and G. Coustou. It is encircled by a marble frame, and contains an equestrian figure of Mars. In the deceptive opening of the same chimney-piece is a second bas-relief, modelled by Desjardins, representing a female seated, and in the act of writing, surrounded by Genii. It is to the justly celebrated Le Brun that the great gallery is indebted for its architecture and paintings. Nothing in Europe surpasses it either in magnificence, taste or arrangement. It is 232 feet long, 30 in breadth, and 37 in heighth, and is lighted by 17 great windows. On the opposite side is a similar number of arcades. The intermediate spaces are filled with immense plate glasses, reflecting the gardens, several pieces of water, and the objects in the gallery. Between the arcades and the windows are forty-eight marble pillars, the bases and capitals of which, of the Composite order, are of gilt bronze. The vaulted ceiling represents, in nine large and eighteen small paintings, under symbolical figures and allegories, the most memorable epochs of the reign of Louis XIV. from 1661 to 1678. These dif- ferent pieces are distributed into several compartments, embellished by the most beautiful architecture, and sup- ported by Mercuries of burnished bronze. The respec- tive Geniuses of the arts and sciences are occupied in decorating the roof with flowers, while the cornice is embellished with trophies, to which Cupids are hanging wreaths of flowers. Two grand arcades, ornamented by four columns, and eight pilasters, adorn the entrance to this sumptuous gallery. The pilasters are separated by salient pedestals supporting vases. The gallery is terminated by the Saloon of Peace. The cupola of this chamber, painted by Le Brun, repre- sents the figure of France seated in a car on an azure sphere, supported by a cloud, and crowned by Glory. Peace and the Loves are employed in uniting turtle- doves, around whose necks are medallions, symbolical of the alliances formed under the reign of Louis XIV. Pleasure and Joy, represented by two Bacchantes, play on the castanets and the cymbal. Discord and Envy are giving up the ghost, and Religion and Innocence 440 VERSAILLES, offer incense on an altar, at the foot of which, Heresy, with her masks and her books, is overthrown. Numerous gilt bronze ornaments in relief add to the effect of the whole. The two adjoining chambers, which complete the whole suite, are superbly decorated by gildings, luirrors, vases, columns, and busts. In the last is a fine col- lection of twenty-two pictures, the compositions of Le Sueur, and other celebrated masters. The apartments of Louis XVI. were appropriated, during the Revolution, to the reception of military in- valids, and consequently were shamefully mutilated and defaced ; the traveller will therefore retrace his steps, and descend into the gallery of the chapel, which con- ducts to the Opera-house. This building was commenced in 1753, after a plan presented to Louis XV. by Gabriel; and was completed in 1770, to celebrate the marriage of the late unfortunate monarch. Nothing can surpass the splendid decorations of this structure, a minute detail of which would occupy a space far beyond the limits prescribed to the present publication. In the construction of the royal banqueting room, Arnoult may be said to have surpassed himself. This chamber, equally appropriated for the dress balls of the court, is eighty feet long, sixty-nine wide, and fifty-eight high. The chapel is a most superb monument of the munifi- cence of Louis XIV. It is the last work of J. H. Man- sard; and was begun in 1699, and finished in 1710, two years prior to his death. Its external decoration consists of Corinthian pilasters, having a basement, and being surmounted by an attic story. In the spaces betw een the columns, arcades present themselves, ornamented with angels. These support a ballustrade, on the pediments of which are stone statues nine feet in height, represent- ing the apostles, the evangelists, the fathers of the church, and the theological virtues. The interior, which is decorated with the same order, is composed of free-stone. Twelve fluted pillars sustain the dome; betvveen which are ballustrades of gilded VERSAILLES Ml buonze, supported by grey marble. The bas-reliefs and ornaments of the columns, and arcades of the nave, are of the most exquisite, workmanship. The grand altar, formed of the choicest marble, is decorated with a Glory ; and at the sides appear angels in the act of adoration. The whole of the bronze is heightened with or-moln. In front is the gallery appropriated for the royal family. The paintings of the arches are by three different mas- ters ; and the ceiling over the gallery was executed by thefamous Jean Jouvenete, who has represented the Holy Ghost descending among the apostles. The centre paint- ing, which represents the Almighty in his glory, is from the hand of Coipel; and the Resurrection, over the grand altar-piece, is the work of Charles de la Fosse. The other smaller ceiling-paintings were by the two Boulongues. The chapel of the Virgin was ornamented by them ; and to one of them is attributed the picture of the Annuncia- tion, over the altar-piece, which is highly esteemed. The chapel entirely escaped the ravages of the Revolution. The gardens of this sumptuous palace are equal in splendour to the fabric to which they belong. Innume- rable statues, temples, and pavillions, greet the view in every direction, while shrubberies, parterres, sheets of water, and jets-d’eaux, in every direction, diversify and complete the enchanting scenery. The cascades and jets-d’eaux are the noblest which France, or perhaps the world, afford. I would particu- larly point out to the notice of the traveller the bath of Latona. A group, composed of Latona and her two children, is in the centre; and seventy-four enormous frogs, representing the peasants of Lybia, who were changed into those animals by Jupiter at the prayer of Latona, are covering them with torrents of water ; the obelisk of water, formed by the union of innumerable jets; the water-walk, composed of a succession of cas- cades and jets ; and the basin of Neptune, representing 1 the triumph of that Deity, the etfcct of which is truly I superb. j The most advantageous point of view is on the lawn, opposite to the basin of Neptune, and a little on the right. Rvery part of this noble fountain is there displayed ; and vincj:nnes, U2 behind is the grand jet of the Dragon, the elegant water- walk, with all its numerous and elegant groups, the py- ramid further behind, and an angle of the chateau ap- pearing between the dark woods, beautifully closing the perspective. The jets play every Sunday, and on most of the principal festivals. The menagerie is well worthy the stranger’s observa- tion ; but the principal ornament of the gardens of Ver- sailles, next to the water-works, is the orangery, which was planted in 1685, after the designs of Mansard, and finished the ensuing year. It stands on the left of the terrace beneath the flowery parterre. The canal is 1,600 yards long and 64 broad ; two arms, each of which is 512 yards long, join on one side Great Trianon, and on the other the menagerie. Independent of the palace, there are many other build- ings at Versailles, deserving the attention of the stranger namely — La Charit6 (the convent on the route to St. Cloud), the royal wardrobe, the theatre, the water- works, the government-house, the range of buildings ap- propriated to the military in the royal suite, the hotels of war and marine, and the stables where they keep a con- siderable number of fine horses, chiefly of the Norman breed. This famous charger, on which Buonaparte rode, in particular, which is a light brown, is generally at Versailles. The architecture of all these buildings, though various, is appropriate and beautiful. Cabriolets for Versailles stand at the quay of the Thuilleries. Messrs. S6nechal and Mitchel have a large establish- ment at this place, for the instruction of youth in the French and other foreign languages, it is situated in a delightful part of Versailles, and conducted by eminent masters in the various departments. [See the article Private Schools, page 301.] Vincennes. — The village of Vincennes is four miles and a half from Paris. It is of the remotest antiquity, and was inhabited by many of the early kings an4 VITRY. 443 queens of France. The palace which was erected by Francis I. had the appearance, and possessed all the ad- vantages, of a fortress ; particularly that part denomi- nated the Dungeon. In this fabric Charles V. expired; and here, in 1422, the warlike Henry V. of England breathed his last ; nor is there a building more connected with curious ancient historical incidents than the chateau now under review. Of more recent date, may be seen the apartments wherein was confined the Prince of Cond6, in 1617, and forty years after, the great Cond4, his son. Cardinal Mazarine also expired at Vincennes, in 1661; nor should the name of the celebrated Mirabeau be omitted, who was imprisoned four years within the walls of this building ; during which period he wrote the admir- able letters between Gabriel and Sophia. In one of the 'moats of this castle the Duke d’Enghien was murdered. The annual fete is on August l5th ; and Paris pours forth all its population to partake of the amusements of the day. The lovers of archery have then a grand trial of skill. Cabriolets for Vincennes stand in the Square of the Bastile. ViTRV. — This pleasant village is six miles from Paris, on the road to Choisy. It contains numerous country- seats, and surrounded by extensive nurseries for fruit- trees and flowering shrubs. Its annual f^te is on Whit- sunday. INDEX Abbaye Royale de Port- Royal, 217 Abbaye du Vai du Grace, 209 Abbey, the, 273 Abbey Royal of St. Ger- main des Pr6s, 201 Academical Institution for European Nations, 301 Academical Society of Scien ces, 353 Academy of Paris, 302 Academy, royal, 347 Agricultural Society, 352 Ambassador’s Office at Pa- ris, 116 Antiquities, 195 Arc de I’Etoile, 258 Arch of the Thuillerles, 257 Archbishop’s Palace, 174 Arches, triumphal, 256 Arcueil, 409 Argenteuil, ib. Arms, manufactory of, 362 Arnouville, 410 Arsenal, the, 185 Asnieres, 410 Athenzeum of Arts, 349 Paris, 350 Strangers, 351 Auteuil, 410 B. Bagatelle, 410 Baggage, 8 Bagneux, 411 Bagnolet, ib. Balls, 394 Bank, the, 184 Bankers, 2 Barracks, 187 Barriers, 259 Barrier of i’Etoile, 260 Fontainebleau, 259 St. Martin, 260 Passy, 260 the Throne, or oi St. Anthony, 259 Bastringues, 408 Baths, 253 Beaujon, hospital of, 279 Belleville, 412 Bellevue, ib. Berci, 413 Bicetre, 273 hospital of, 280 Biron, garden of, 405 Blind, Institution for the, 297 Bois de Boulogne, 413 Bondi, ib. Boulevards, the, 398 Bourg la Reine, 414 f Bridges, 245 Brie sur Marne, 414 INDEX, 445 c Cabinet of Natural History, 335 Physiology, ib. the School of Mi- neralogy, 317 Cabriolets, 364 Cabriolets in Paris, ib. Calais, arrival at, 27 description of, 31 Inns of, 28 Carriages, duty on, 96 Catacombs, 221 Celtic Academy, 353 Cemeteries, 227 Cemetery at Mont Louis, ib. Montmartre, 230 Central Office of Admission into the Hospitals, 285 Chaillot, 415 Chantilly, 62, 416 Chapel Beaujon, 202 Chapelle, La Sainte, 207 Character of the Parisians, 130 Charenton, 416 Charity, Hospital of, 278 Chatillon, 416 Chaumiere, La, 406 Chesnut-Tree Garden, 407 Choisy, 416 Churches, Protestant, 219 Church of the Carmelites,220 Church of La Madelaine,208 Church of the Visitation, 220 City Library, 341 Clichy, 417 Clock and Watch Manufac- tory, 362 Cloth Hall, 262 Cloud, St. 417 Coaches, 16 Cochin Hospital, 282 Coffee-Houses, 106 Coins, 2 Collection of Paintings in Rue de Lille, 336 College of St. Barbe, 299 France, 290 Law, 288 Letters and the Sciences, 290 Theology, 288 Combats of Animals, 391 Comic Opera, the, 381 Commissaries of the Police, 270 Committee of Longitude,352 Comte’s Exhibition, 390 Conciergerie, the, 272 Conservatory of Arts and Machines, 330 , Music, 300 Convents, 220 Corn-Market, 261 Cosmorama, 387 Courbevoie, 420 Court of Accompts, 268 Appeal, ib. Assizes, 168 Cassation, ib. Muilicipal Police, 270 Court Royal, 268 Crystal Manufactory, 362 Cyr, St. 420 Q Q 446 INDEX. D. Deaf and Dumb, Institution for the, 298 Denis, St. 420 Diligences, 39, 366 Dover, 26 Maison Batave, 190 Duty on carriages, &c. 96 E. Eating-Houses, 111 Eglise des Filles de la V^isi- tation de Ste. Marie, 217 Elysian Fields, 400 Epinay siir Seine, 421 EstablishmentforNiirses,285 the Orphan Daughters of the Legion of Honour, 296 Establishment for Wounded Poor, 284 Evening’s Rendezvous, 402 Exchange, the, 181 Notes, 10, 14 Exchequer, the, 168 Exhibitions on the Water, 395 Exliibition of Paintings, 388 F. Fencing Academies, 300 Fiacres, 364 Field of Mars, The, 402 Flower Market, 265 Francsj table of, 4 Fontaine d’Alexandre, 242 du Boulevard de Bondi, ib. du Chatelet, 240 de la Croix de Tra- hoir, 241 Desaix, 243 de I’Ecole-de M6- decine, 240 de I’Elephant, 243 St. Eustache, 241 * Crenelle, 238 Fontaine de I’Hospice Mili- taire de Gros Caillou, 240 des Innocens, 239 de St. Martin, 244 de la Place de I’Ecole, 242 de la Place Royale, 243 de la Place St. Mi- chel, 237 de Popincourt,242 de la Rue Censier, 241 la Rue de I’Echelle, 238 de la Rue de&evres^ 243 INDEX. 447 Fontaine de la Rue de Vaugi- rard, 238 St. Sulpice, 237 des Vieilles Andri- ettes, 242 Fontainebleau, 421 Fontenay, 422 Fountains, 237 Foundling Hospital, 281 French Theatre, The, 377 Fruit Market, 265 G. Gallery of Antiques, 327 Gaming Houses, 162, 395 Garde-Meuble, 179 Garden of the Luxembourg, 165 Gardens of the Thuilleries, 152 Gate of St. Denis, 256 Martin, 257 Gentilly, 422 St. Germain- en-Laye, ih. Gobelins, Manufactory of, 359 Granaries, 262 Gregoire’s Manufactory of Silk Velvet, 389 Guinguettes, 408 H. Hackney Coaches, 364 Halle au B16, 261 aux Draps, 262 aux Vins, ib. History of Paris, 117 Horse Market, 266 Horse Races, 393 Hospitals, 274 Hospital for Sick Children, 282 Hotels, 98 Hotel Meurice’s, ih. Beaumarchais, 191 de Brunoy, 192 de Carnavalet, 189 Hotel Cluny, 194 de Croy, 193 Devaux, 190 ^ — of the Ring's Body Guard, 177 Lambert, 189 — ; de Longueville, 193 de la Mademoiselle Guimard, 192 de Matignon, ib. de Mirabeau, 193 Runski, ib. de Sens, 194, 195 Thelusson, 189 Humanity, Hospital of, 277 QQ 2 448 INDEX. I&J. Incurable Women, Hospital for, 283 Men, Hospital for, ib. Institute, The, 347 Institution for the Blind, 297 Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, 298 Invalids, Hospital for, 274 Issy, 423 Ivry, 424* Justice of the Peace, 27a King’s Garden, 171 K. I King’s Museum, 322 L. La Force, Prison of, 271 Libraries of the Ministers, 344 Libraries, public, 337 Library of the Arsenal, 342 of the French Prita- neum, 344 St. Genevieve, 343 of the Institute, 345 of the Medical School, 345 Library of the Museum of Natural History, 346 of the Royal Palace, 343 Literary Societies, 35l Livry, 424 Lotteries, 393 Louvre, The, 171, 322 Luciennes, 424 Luxembourg, The, 163 Lyceums, 299 M. Madelonnettes, Prison of, 272 Magazines, 355 Maison, Callet, 193 du Chanoine Fulbert, 194 ■ Dorlian, 193 St. Foix, 191 Maison St. Germain, 190 Lathuille, 191 Maisons R^unies Trois, ib. de Sante, 279 Mal-Maison, 425 St. Mande, ib. Manners of the Parisians, 130 INDEX* 44^9 Manufactories, 350 Maunfactoiy of Fire Arms, 362 of Painted Pa pers, 361 Marbcenf, Garden of, 404 Marches des Prouvaires, 266 Market of the Innocents, 263 Markets, 261 Marly, 425 Maternity, H&pital de, 281 St. Maur, 426 Mazarine Library, 283 Menages, Hospice des, 344 Mendon, 426 « Meurice’s Hotel, 98 Military School, 291 Mint, The, 183 Models of Ancient Ruins, 389 Models of Fortified Towns, 334 Mont de Pi6t4, 185 Montmartre, 427 Montmorency, 428 Morgue, La, 230 Mouceaux, Garden of, 408 Moulin Joli, 428 Mountains, 393 Muette, La, 405 Museum of French Monu* ments, 318 Royal, 322 of Artillery, 334 N. Nanterre, 428 Neuilly, Pont de, ih. Newspapers, 355 Nogent sur Marne, 429 Noisy le Sec, ib> Normal School, 296 Notre Dame, Cathedral of, 197 Notre Dame des Victoires, 215 o. Observatory, R 9 yal, 179 Odeon, The, 380 Olivier’s Spectacle, 390 Olympic Circus, The, 386 One-Horse Chaises, 364 Opera, The, 375 Oratory, The, 219 Orphan’s Hospital, 280 Ouen sur Seine, 429 P. Packets, 21 Palace of the Archbishop, 174 Palace of v Bourbon, or Pa- lace of tlie Representa- tives, 169 450 INDUX. Palace d’Elys^e, Bourbon, 176 of the Fine Arts, 175 of Justice, 166 of the Legion of Ho* nour, 174 of Luxembourg, or Chamber of Peers, 163 The Royal, 157 of the Temple, 177 of the Thuilleries, 150 of the Warm Baths, 178 Palais Royal, The, 157 Panorama, 387 Panst^reoraa, ib. Pantheon, 218 Panthemont, The, 220 Paris Papers and Maga- zines, 355 Passage-Boats, 367 'Passports, 8 Passy, 430 Pelagie, Prison of, 272 Pere la Chaise, 227 Phantasmagoria, 389 Picturesque and Mechanical Theatre, 386 Pierrefitte, 430 Pity, Hospital of, 280 Place de la Bastille, 236 Beauveau, ib. du Chatelet, 235 Danphine, ib. — — de Greve, ib. ■ de Louis XV., 234 Royale, 231 Vendome, 232 — — . des Victoires, ib. Plans in Relief, 388 Plate Glass Manufactory, 360 Plessy-Piquet, 430 Polytechnic School, 292 Pont des Arts, 250 - — au Change, 247 de la Cite, 250 aux Doubles, 246 de I’Ecole Militaire, 250 Grammont, 246 des Invalids, or Pont d’Jena, 25l du Jardin des Plantes, or Pont d’Austerlitz, 249 Louis XVI., 247 Marie, 249 St. Michel, 248 Neuf, 245 Notre Dame, 248 Petit, ib. Royale, 246 de la Tournelle, 249 Porcelain Manufactory, 361 Post-Office, 182 Posting, Price of, 36 Laws of, 37 Poultry Market, 263 Pres St. Gervais, 408 Princes Garden, 406 Printing-Office, the Royal, 186 Prisons, 271 Private Schools, 301 Prostitutes, 162 Protestant Churches, 219 Public Schools, 287 Puppet Shows, 391 Puteaux, 431 8 INDEX, 451 Q. Quays, 251 Rag Fair, 265 Reading Rooms, 354 Restaurateurs, 111 Review at the Thuilleries. 156 Riding Schools, 299 Rincy, 431 Robertson’s Spectacle, 390 Romainville, 431 Rosny, ib. I Queen’s Course, The, 443 R. Royal Academy, 347 Court, 268 Garden of Plants, 308 Library, 337 Museum, 322 Ruelle, 432 Ruggieri, Garden of, 407 Runges, 432 s. Saltpetriere, Hospital of, 278 Sceaux, 432 Schools, Private, 301 , Public, 287 —of Bridges and Roads, Society of Medicine, 353 of Sorbonne, La, 294 of Design, ih. of the Fine Arts, 293 of Mineralogy, 295 for teaching Young Women to Draw, ih. Seraphin’s Chinese Shadows, 391 Seve, or Sevre, 432 Slaughter-Houses, 266 Society of Belles Lettres, 352 for the Encourage ment of National Indus- try, ih. of the Institution, ih. 212 Soupers de Momus, 353 Stains, 433 Squares, 231 St. Elizabeth, 216 St. Etienne du Mont, 204 St. Eustache, 209 St. Francis Xavier, 212 St. Fran(;ois d’Assise, 216 St. Germain I’Auxerrois, 203 St. Germain’s Market, 265 St. Gervais, 208 St. Jacques du Haut Pas, 216 St. John's Market, 264 St. Joseph’s Market, ih. St. Laurent, 211 St. Lazare, Prison of, 273 St. Leu, 203 St. Louis, 202 452 INDEX. St. Louis, Hospital of^ 279 St. Louis en I’lsle, 205 St. Louis and St.. Paul, 206 St. Marguerite, 210 St. Martin’s Market, 264 St. Merry, 207 St. Nicholas des Champs, 211 St. Nicolas du Chardonnet, 216 St. Philip du Roule, 213 St. Roch, 212 St. Severin, 202 St. Sulpice, 214 St. Thomas d’Aquin, 211 Summer Vauxhall, 406 Surene, 433 Surgical School, 288 Swimming Schools, 255 Synagogues, 220 T. Temple, Prisoii of the, 271 Tennis Court, 395 Theatres, 369 Theatre de I’Ambigu Co- mique, 383 of Benevolence, 385 du Boulevard St. Martin, 383 Favart, 382 of Gaiety, 384 of Novelty, 385 of Varieties, 384 Vaudeville, 382 Thuilleries, The, 150 Tivoli, 403 Torch-Bearers, 367 Tour de St. Jacques-La- Boucherie, 221 Tour de St. Jean de Latran, 178 Town-hall, The, 180 Trianon, 433 Trianon-Petit, 434 Tribunal of the First In- stance, 269 Commerce, ib. Turkish Garden, 405 Turkish Velvet, Manufac- tory of, 362 U& V. University of France, 287 Vaugirard, 434 Versailles, 435 Veterinary School at Alfort, 295 Vincennes, 442 Vitry, 443 w. Wardrobe, 179 IWine-Hall, 262 Widow’s Walk, The, 402 (Wood of Vincennes, 407 THE END. G. Woodfalt, Printer, Angel-court,' Skinncr-strcet, London. INDEX THE PLAN OF PARIS. The Figures, on the left side of the Columns, refer to Places the Names of which could not be distinctly introduced in the Plan. RUES. A. Abbaye, de F, e 5 .'Abonkir, d', see Bourbon Villeneuve, f g 3 / Acacias, des, d 5 ’ Aguesseau, d’, d 3 1 Aipillerie, dc F, f 4 Aligre, d’, j 5 Alpes, des, see Beaujolois, g 3 Amandiers, des, j 4 'Amandiei'S, des, f 5 Amboise, d’, f 3 Ambroise, St., h j 4 Amelot, h 4 Anastase, St., g 4 Andr4, St., j 4 ■ Audr6 des Arts, St., f 5 2 Angiviller, d’, f 4 1 Anglade, de F, e 3 Anglais, des, f 5 Anglaises, des, f 7 AngoulSme, d’, c 3 AngoulSme, d’, b 3 Anjou, d’, f 4 Anjou, d% d 2 3 Anjou, d’, g 4 Anne, Ste., e 3 Anne, Ste., f 4 Antin, d’, e 3 Antoine, St., g h 4 5 Apolline, Ste., g 3 I * Arbal^te, de F, f 6 1 - Arbre-Sec, do F, f 4 Arcade, de F, e 2 3 3 Arche-Marion, de F, f 4 4 Arche-Pepin, de F, f 4 Arcis, des, f 4 1 Arcole, d’, see Beanjolais, f 3 Argenteuil, d’, e 3 Arras, d’, g 5 Artois, d’, f 2 1 Arts, des, g 3 Assas d’, e 5 Astorg, d’, d 2' Aubry-le-Boucher, f 4 1 Audriettes, des, g 4 Aumpre, g 3 Aval, d’, h 4 Aveugles, des, e 5 5 Avignon, d’, f 4 Avoye, Ste., g 4 B. 6 Babille, f 4 Babyl6ac, de, d 5 i^Bac, dll, € 4 3 B 2 RUES. Bagneux, de, e 5 Baillet, f 4 • Bailleul, f4 Baillif, f 3 i Bailly, g 3 f Ballets, des, g 4 Banquier, du, g 7 Barbe, Ste., f3 Barbette, g 4 Barillerie, de la, f 4 BaroailRre, de la, d 5 Barre-du-Bec, g 4 Barres, des, g 4 Barr^s, des, g 5 Basfroid, de, j 4 5 Basse Porte St. Denis, g 3 Basse St. Pierre, c 3 Basse da Rempart, e 3 Basse des Ursins, g 4 5 41 Basville, de, f 4 Batailles, des, b 3 4 Batave, see Valois, e 4 . Battoir, du, f 5 Battoir, du, g 6 Beaubourg, g 4 Beauce, de, g 4 Beauharnais, de, h 4 Beaujolais, de, g 3 1 Beaujolais, de, f 3 1 Beaujolais, de, e 4 Beaune, de, e 4 Beauregard, f 3 Beaurepaire, f 3 BeautreilliS, de, h 5 Beauveau, de, j 5 Belle-Chasse, de, e 4 Bellefond, de, f 2 Benoit, St., e 4 5 2 Benoit, St., g 3 Bercy, de, g 4 Bercy, de, h j 5 6 Berg^re, f 2 Bernard, St., j 5 Bernardins, des, g 5 Berry, de, g 4 19 Bertin-Poiree, f 4 B^tizy, f 4 1 Beurridre, e 5 Bibliotheque, de la, f 4 Bienfaisance, de la, d 2 Bi^vre, de, f g 5 P.Ulettes, des, g 4 Biron, de, f 7 2 Bissy, de, e 5 Blanche, e 2 Blauche-de-Castiile, see St. Louis, g 5 Blanchisseuses, des, c 3 Blancs-Manteaux, des, g 4 Bleue, f 2 - Bon, St., g4 Bon-Puits, du, g 5 Bonaparte, see Germain des Pr^s, e 4 Bondy, de, g 3 Bons-Hommes, des, b 4 Bons-Enfans, des, f3 Bordet, see Descartes, f 5 Bossuet, de, g 5 Boucher, f 4 Boucherat, de, h 3 4 Boucherie des Inv., de la, d 3 Boucheries, des, f 5 Boucheries, des, e 3 2 Boudreau, e 3 Boulangers, des, g 5 Boulets, des, j 5 Bouloy, du, f 3 Bourbe, de la, f 6 Bourbon, de, d e 4 3 Bourbon-le-Chateau, e 5 Bourbon-Villeneuve, f g 3 Bourdonnais, des, f 4 Bourdonnaye, de la, c 5 Bourg-l’Abbe, g 3 Bourgogne, de, d 4 Bourgtibourg, g 4 Bourguignons, des, f 6 bout-Su-Monde, du, see Ca^ dran, f 3 1 Boutebrie, f 5 Boyauterie, de la, h 2 Braque, de, g 4 Bretagne, de, g 4 2 Breteuil, de, g 3 Breton^illiers, de, g 5 5 Brise-Miche, g 4 Brodeurs des, d 5 Bucherie, de la, f 5 Buffault, de, f 2 Buffon, de, g 6 Buisson S. Louis, du, h 2 3 Bussy, de, f 5 Buttes, del, k 5 d RUES. 3 C. Cadet, f2 Cadrau, dn, f 3 ,CaffarelIi, g 3 Caille, de la, e 7 Caire, dii, f g 3 Calaiidre, de la, f 4 3 ,Canettes, des, e 5 1 Canivet, dn, e5 Capucins, des, f 6 Cardinale, e 4 Cai-fime-Prenant, de, h 2 3 3 Cargaisong, des, f 5 Carmes, des, f 5 Caron, g 4 Carousel, du, e 4 Carpentier, e 5 Cassette, e 5 Cassini, f 6 Castex, h 5 Castiglione, de, e 3 Catherine, Ste., f 5 Caumartin, de, e 3 Cendrier, dn, g 6 Censier, g 6 Cerisaye, de la, h 5 C^rutti, see Artois, f 2 Chabannais, de, f 3 Chaillot, de, c 3 Chaise, de la, e 5 Champ de I'Alouette, du, f 7 Champs, des, b 3 Champs Elys6es, des, d 3 Chanoiiiesse, g 5 Chantereine, e f 2 Chantre, du, f 4 Chantres, des, g 5 Chanverrerie, de la, f 4 Chapelle, de la, g 1 2 ■ Chapon, g 4 Charbonniers, des, h 5 6 Charbonniers, des, f 6 Charcnton, de, h j 5 6 1 Charite, de la, g 2 Chariot, g h 3 Charonne, de, h j k 4 5 5 Chartidre, f 5 Chartres, de, g 4 Chartres, de, c 2 Chalcau-Landon, du, g h 1 6 Chat-qui-pechc, du, f 5 Chauchat, f2 Chaudron, du, h 1 Chaume, du, g 4 Chauss^e d’Antin, de la, e 2 ' Chaussee des Minimes, de la, h4 Chemin de Lagny, du, k 5 Chemin de Pantin, du, h 1 IP Chemin du Rempart, du, e 3 Chemin-vert, du, h 4 Chemin de la Yoirie, du, g 1 Cherche-midi, du, e 5 7 Chevalier-du-Guet, du, f 4 8 Chevet St. Landry, du, f 4 Chevert, de, c d 4 Chevreuse, de, e 6’ 7 Chiens, des, see Jean-Hubert, f 5 4 Childebert, e 5 9 Chilperic, f 4 Choiseul, de, e 3 7 Cholets, des, f5 Chopinette, de la, h 2 Christine, f 4 9 Ghristophe, St., f 5 Cygne, du, f4 Cimeti^re St. Andr4, du, f H 8 Cimeti^re St. Benoit, dn, f 5 Cimeti^re St. Nicolas, du, g 3 15 Cinq-Diamants, des, f 4 Cisalpine, see Valois, d 2» 5 Ciseaux, des, e 5 3 Claude, St., g 3 Claude, St., h 4 Clef, de la, g 6 Clery, de, f g 3 Clichy, de, e 2 Cloche-Perche, g 4 Cloltre Notre-Dame, du, g 5 10 Cloltre St. Benoit, dn, f 6 5 Cloltre St. Mederic, du, g4 Clopin, f g 5 3 Clos-Georgeot, du, c 3 42 Clotilde, f 5 Clovis, f 5 11 Cluny, de, f5 12 Cocatrix, f 5 Caur-Volant, du, f 5 Colbert, de, f3 G ('olombe, de la, g 4 Coloinbier, du, c 4 Coluiincs, des, f 3 Colysce, du, c d 3 n 2 4 RUES Com^te, de la, e 4l 1 Commerce, du, g 3 Comtesse d’Artois, f 3 Cond^, de, f 5 10 Contrat-Social, du, f 3 , Contrescarpe, f 5 Contrescarpe, f 6 Contrescarpe, de la, h 5 Convention, de la, see Dau- phine, e 3 yCopeau, g6 Coq. du, f 4 Coq. du, g 4 Coq h^ron, f 3 Coquenard, f2 Coquilles, des, g 4 ' Coquilli^re, f 3 Cordeliers, des, see Ecole-de- M^decine, f 5 4 Corderie, de la, e 3 Corderie, de la, g 3 Cordiers, des, f 5 11 Cordonnerie, de la, f 4 14 Corneille, f 5 Comes, des, g 6 Cossonnerie, de la, f 4 ^ Cotte, de, j 5 Courcelles, de, d 2 Courroierie, de la, g 4 12 Courtalon, f 4 8 Coutellerie, de la, g 4 Couture St. Gervais, des, g 4 Courty, de, d 4 15 Crebillon, de, f 5 Croissant, du, f 3 Croix, de la, g 3 Croix, Ste., f4 Croix-Blanche, de la, g 4 2 Croix Boissi^re, de la, b 3 Croix de la Bretonnerie, Ste., g 4 Croix des Petits Champs, f 34 Croulebarbe, de, f g 7 Crussol, de, h 3 Culture Ste. Catherine, g 4 D. 2 Damiette, de, f 3 Dauphin, du, e 3 Dauphine, f4 i4 D^chargeurs, des, f 4 13 Degres, des, g 3 9 Demi-Saint, du, f4 Denis, St., f g 2 3 Denis, St., j k 5* 1 Dervill4, £7 Desaix, b 5 ; Descartes, f 5 Deux Anges, des, e 4 Deux Boules, des, f 4 Deux- Ecus, des, £4 Deux-^lises, des, £6 *’ 12 Deux-lTer mites, des, £ 5 Deux-Ponts, des, g 5 Deux-Portes, des, f 3 j Deux-Portes, des, £5' Deux-Portes, des, g 4 Dominique, St., £5 Dominique, St., d e 4 Dominique, St., c4 Dor^e, h 4 Douze-Portes, des, h 4 , Doyenn6, du, e 4 Dragon, du, e 5 Duguay-Trouin, e 5 Duphot, e 3| Dupleix, b c 5 Dupont, c 3 Dupuis, g 3 Duras, de, d 3 Durnstein, de, see Echaud^, e 5 ’ E. 1 Echarpe, de 1’, h 4 1 14 Echaude, de P, g 4 Echaude, de 1', e .5 Echelle, de V, e 3 Echiquier, de 1*, £ g 3 Ecole-de-Medecine, de 1’, f 5 Ecosse, d’, £ 5 EcoufFes, des, g 4 13 Ecrivains, des, £4 Eglise, de P, c 4 Egout, de P, e 5 Egout, de P g 4 Elisabeth, Ste., g 3 16 Eloy, St., £4 En£ans-Rouges, des, g 4 Enfer, d% e £ 5 6 7 Enghien, d’, g 3 Epee-de Bois, de P, g 6 Eperon, de P, £ 5 RUES.’ 5 6 Erfurt, d’, e 5 Essai, de I’, g 6 Est, de r, f 6 Etienne, f 4 Etienne-des-Gr^s, St., f 5 ^ Etoile, de 1’, g 5 16 Evfich^, de i% f 5 EvSque, 1’, e 3 F. Faubourg St. Antoine, du, h j k 5 Faubourg St. Denis, du, g 1 23 Faubourg St. Honore, du, d 3 Faubourg St. Jacques, du, f 67 FaubourgSt.Martin,du,gh’l 23 Faubourg Montmai*tre, du, f 2 Faubourg Poissonnidre, du, f 123 Faubourg du Roule, du, c 2 Faubourg du Temple, du, h 3 Fauconnier, du, g-5 Favart, f 3 3 Femme-sans-tete, de la, g 5 Fer, an, see Mar. desinnocents, f 4 . : Fer-^Moulin, du, g 6 Ferdinand, h 3 Ferme des Mathnrins, de la,e2 Ferou, c 5 Ferronnerie, f 4 3 Feuillade, de la, f 3 Feves, aux, f 4 Feydeau, f 3 Fiacre, St., f3 Fiddlite, de la, g 2 Figuier, du, g 6 4 Filles-Dieu, des, g 3 Filles-du-Calvaire, des, h 4 Filles St. Thomas, des, f 3* Fleurus, de, e 5 \ Florentin, St., e 3 Foin, du, h 4 jt'oln, du, f 5 Folie-M^ricourt, de la, h 3 Folie-Regnault, de la, j 4 Fontaine, h 3 Fontaine, de la, g 6 Fontaines, des, g 3 Forez, de, g 3 £ Forges, des, f 3 Fosses du Temple, des, h 3 Fosses Montmartre, de?, f 3 Fosses St. Bernard., des, g 5 Fosses St. Germain I’Auxer- rois, des, f 4 Fosses St. Germain des Pres, des, f 5 Fosses St. Jacques, des, f 5 Fosses St. Marcel, des, g 6 7 Fosses St. Martin, des, g 1 Fosses St. Victor, des, g 5 Fouarre, du, f 5 Four, du, e 5 Four, du, f 4 Four, du, f 5 Fourcy, de, g 4 Fourcy, de, f 6, 28 Fourreurs, des, f 4 Fourneaux, des, d 6 ' Foy, St., g 3 *5 Francaise, f 3 Francs-Bourgeois, des, g 4 Francs-Bourgeois, des, g 6 17 Francs-Bourgeois, des, f 5 Frejus, see Monsieur, d 5 Fr^pillon, g 3 9 Frilense, g 4 '] Froidmanteait, f 4 52 Fromagerie, de la, f 4 18 Fromentel, f 5 1 Frondeurs, des, e 3 2 Furstemberg, de, e 4 56 Fuseaux, des, f 4 G. • Gaillon de, e 3 Galande, f 5 Garanciire, c 5 Ga?td, b 3 Genevieve, Ste., c 3 Geoffroy I’Angevin, g 4 G^efFroy I’Asnier, g 4 Georges, St., f 2 G^rard-Bonuet, g 5 Germain rAuxerrois, St., f 4 Germain des Pres, St., e4 Gervais, St., g 4 20 Gervais-Laurent, f 4 Gindre, du, e -5 Git-le-Co:ur, f 5 Glacitire, de la, f 4 21 Glatigny, dc, f 7 B 3 & RUES. : Gobelins, dee, g 7 Gourdes des, e 3 Gracieuse, g 6 Grammont, de, f 3 Grand-Chantier, dn, g 4 Grand-Prieure, du, h 3 1 Grande Rue de la Trinite, g 3 f Grands-Augustins, des, f 5 1 Grands-Degr^s, des, g 5 18 Grande Friperie, de la, f 4 Grand-Hurleur, du, g 3 Grande-Truanderie, de la, f 4 Grande Rue Verte, d 2 Grange-anx-Belles, g 3 Grange-Bateli^re, f 2 Gravilliers, des, g 3 Grenelle, de, d e 4 5 Grenelle, de, c 4 Grenelle, de, f 4 Grenetat, g 3 Grenier-St. Lazare, g 4 10 Grenier-sur-l’eau, g 4 Gr^s, des, f. 5 Gr^sillons, des, d 2 Gr^try, f 3 Gril, du, g 6 Gros-Chenet, du, f 3 Gu^n^gaud, f 4 Guerin-Boisseau, g 3 Guillaume, g 5 Guillaume, St., e 4 11 Guillelmites, des, g 4 Guisarde, e 5 2 Guntzbourg, de, see Cardin, e 4 H. _ Hanovre, d’, e 3 Harlay, de, h 4 Harlay, de, f 4 Harpe, de la, f 5 21 Haut-Moulin, du, f 4 Haut-Moulin, du, h 3 21 Haute des Ursins, f 4 Hautefeuille, f 5 Hauteville, d’, g 2 - ^ Hazard, du, e 3 22 H^aumerie, de la, f 4 Helder, du, e 2 5 Helv^tius, see Ste. Anne, e 3 1 Henry Premier, g 3 19 Hilaire, St., f 5 Hillerin-Rertin, d 4 Hiroudelle, de 1’, f 5 12 Homme-Arine, dc 1’, g 4 Honore, St., c f 3 4 i. Honor^-Crevalier, e 5 1 j H&pital, St. Louis, de 1’, h 2 Houssaye, dc, e 2 Huchette, de la, f 5 2 Hugues, St., g 3 5 Hyacinthe, St., e 3 Hyacinthe, St., f 5 38 Hyacinthe, g 4 Hypolitc, St., f 7 I. Iinp^riale, see Carousel, e 4 Irlandais, des, f 6 Ivry, d’, g 7 J. 20 Jacinte, f 5 Jacob, e 4 Jacques, St., f 5 Jacques de la Boucherie, St. • f 4 25 Jacques de THipital, St., f 3 Jardin du Roi, du, g 6 Jardinet, du, f 5 Jardins, des, g 5 Jarente, de, g 4 Jean, St., c 4 1 Jean-Baptiste, St., d 2 Jean Bart, e 5 Jean-Beausire, h 4 5 18 Jean-de-Beauce, f 4 Jean-de-Beauvais, St., f 5 Jean-de-l’Epine, g 4 18 Jean-de-Latran, St., f. 5 7 Jean-Hubert, f 5 . Jean-Jacques-Rousseau, f 3 Jean-Lantier, f 4 Jean-Pain-mollet, g 4 Jean-Robert, g 3 Jean-St. Denis, see Pierre Lescot, f 4 Jean-Tison, f 4 34 Jerdme, St., f 4 49 Jerusalem, de, f 4 Jeuneurs, des, f 3 34 Joaillerie, de la, f 4 Joquelet, f 3 RUES. r Joseph, St., f 3 Joubert, e 2 Jour du, f 3 Jouy, de, g 4 Judas, f 5 Juifs, des, g 4 Juiverie, die la, f 4 1 Jules, St., j 5 Julieu-le-Pauvre, St., f 5 Jussienne, de la, f 3 K. Kleber, b 4 a L. 1 Laiterie, de la, g 3 Lancry, de, g 3 8 Landry, St., f 4 57" Lanterne, de la, f 4 37 Lanterne, de la, g 4 Lappe, de, h 5 43 Lard, au, f 4 Laurent, St. g 2 Laval, f 2 Lavandi^res, des, f 4 45 Lavandiers, des, f 5 3 Lazare, St., g 2 Lazare, St., e f 2 Leclerc,' e 7 ' Lenoir, j 5 3 Lenoir, g 2 ,43 Lenoir, f 4 Lepelletier, f 2 Les dignities, de, h fi 13 Levrette, de la, g 4 Licorne, dfe la, f 4 5 Lille, de, see Bourbon, d e 4 14 Limace, de la, f 4 14 Limoges, de, g 4 43 Lingerie, de la, f 4 “ Lions, des, g 5 Lomb.ards, des, f 4 Long-Champs, de, b 3 15 Long-Pont, de, g 4 Lorillon, de, h 2 Louis, St., h 4 Louis, St., g 5 Louis, St., e 3 Louis-Ie-Grand, e 3 ' Louvois, de, f 3 Lubeck, de, b 3 4 ’ 6 Lully, de, f 3 Lune, de la, f 3 Lycee, du, see Valois, f 3 Lyonnais, des, f 6 M. Mably, de, see Enghien, g 3 Macon, f 5 Macons, des, f 5 Madame, de, e 5 Madeleine, de la, d e 2 3 23 Magloire, St., f 4 Mail, du, f 3 Maison-Neuve, d 2 Malte, de, h 3 Malte, de, see Chartres, c 4 Mandar, f 3 Mantoue, de, see. Chartres, c 2 Marais, des, e 4 Marais, des, g 3 Marc, St., f 3 Marceau, see Rohan, e 4 2 Marcel, St., g 6 Marche, de la, g 4. 'j March4, du, d 3 March^ uux Chevaux, du, g 6 52 Marche aux Poirees, du, f 4 Marche des Jacobins, du, e 3 March^-Neuf, du, f 5 9 March4 Palu, du, f 5 2 Marche-St. Martin, du, g 3 2 Marcou, St., g 3 Marguerite, Stc., e 5 Marguerite, Ste., j 5 Marie, Ste., e 4 Marie, Ste., b 3 Marie-Stuart, f 3 Marivaux, de, f 3 24 Marivaux, de, f 4 Marmouzets, des, f 4 Marmouzets, des, f 7. Martel, g 2 4 Marthe, Ste., e 5* Martin. St., g 3 4 36 Martrois, du, g 4 Martyrs, des, f 2 Masscran, de, d 5 Massillon, g 5 Mathurins, des, f 5 Matignon, de, d 3 B 4 RUES. Maubu^c, g 4 Mauconseil, f 3 ’ Maur, St., e 5 , iMaur, St., h j 2 3 2 Maur, St., g 3 , Maure, du, g 4 Mauvais-Gar9on3, des, f 5 Mauvais-Garfons, des, g 4 Manvaises-Paroles, des, f 4 Mazarine, f 4 15 Masure, de la, g 5 1 M<;cainques, des, g 3 Mechain, f 7 Menars, de, f 3 Menetriers, des, g 4 M^nilmontant, de, h j 3 6 Mercier, f 4 Merry, St., see Nve. St. Me- deric, g 4 Mcslay, de, g 3 Messageries, des, f g 2 1 M^tieis, des, g 3 Mfczi^res, de, e 5 Michodi^re, de la, e 3 2 Michel, St., d 2 Michel-le-Comte, g 4 Mignon, f 5 - • Milan, de, c 2 6 Milieu des Ursins, g 4 Minimes, des, h 4 Mironienil, de, d 2 Moineaux, des, e 3 Molay, g 3 " 21 Moli^re, d^ f 5 • Monceau, St. Gervais, du, g 4 , 'Mondetour, de, f 3 4 Mondovi, de, e 3 Monnaie, de la, f 4 Monsieur, de, d 5 Monsieur-le-Prince, f 5 Montaigne, de, d 3 Montagne, St. Genevieve, de la, f 5 Mont-Blanc, du, see Chaussee d’Antin, e 2 Montesquieu, de, f 4 Montgallet, j 6 Montholon, de, f 2 Montmartre, f 3 Montmorency, dt, g 4 Montorgueil, f 3 Mout-Paruasse, du, c 6 Montpensier, de, f .3 Montreuil, de, f k 5 Mont-Thaboi', du, e 3 Moreau, h 5 Mortellerie, de la, g 4 5j Morts, des, h 2 Mouceaux, de, c 2 Mouffetard, f g 6 7 Moulins, des, k 6 Monlins, des, e 3 Moussy, d^, g 4 “ 16 Mouton, du, g 4 ” Muette, de la, j 4 13 Mulcts, des, e 3 Murier, du, f 3 46 Nazareth, de, f 4 7 Necker, g 4 ' 7 Neuve, St. Anastase, g 5 , Neuve, St. Augustin, e f 3 Neuve de Babylono, c d 5 Neuve de Belle-Chasse, d 4 Neuve de Berry, c 2 Neuve des Bons-Enians, f 3 Neuve de Bretagne, h 4 * Neuve des Capucines, e 3 Neuve Ste. Catherine, g 4 1 Neuve de la Cerisaye, h 5 Neuve des Petits-Champs,e f 3 7 Neuve du Coloinbier, g 4 Neuve Ste. Croix, e2 Neuve, St. Denis, g 3 Neuve St. Etienne, f 3 Neuve St. Etienne, g 6 Neuve St. Eustache, f 3 Neuve St. Franpois, g 4 Neuve Ste. Genevieve, T 6 Neuve St. Gilles, h 4 ^ Neuve Guillerain, e 5 Neuve St. Jean, g 2 3 Neuve St. Laurent, g 3 Neuve de Luxembourg, e 3 Neuve St. Marc, f 3 Neuve St. Martin, g 3 Neuve des Mathurins, e 2 Neuve St. Medard, g 6 Neuve St. Mederic, g 4 Neuve de Menilmontant, h 4 Neuye St. Nicolas, g 3 RUES.’ . 9 Neuve Notre-Dame, f 5 Neuve d’Orleans, g 3 , Neuve St. Paul, g 5 0 Neuve des Petits-Pires, f 3 Neuve St. Pierre, h 4 Neuve Plumet, d 5 41 Neuve des Poirees, f 5 44 Neuve de Richelieu, f 5 Neuve St. Roch, e 3 Neuve S. Sauveur, f 3 Nevers, de, f 3 [ 3 Nicaise, St., e 4 | Nicolas, St., e 2 , Nicolas, St., h 5 Nicolas du Chardonnet, St , f 5 Nicolet, d 4 Nonaindidres, des, g 5 Normandie, de, h 3 4 7 Notre-Dame de Bonne-Nou- velle, f 3 Notre-Dame de Nazareth, g 3 8 Notre-Dame de Recouviance, f S Notre-Dame des Champs, e 5 6 Notre-Dame des Victoires, f 3 Noyers, des, f 5 O. ' 6 Oblin, f 4 22 Observance, de T, f 5 Odeoa, de 1’, f 5 15 Ogiiiard, g 4 22 Oiseaux, des, f 4 4 1 Olivet, d', d 5 . Orangerie, de T, g 6 ‘ Oratoire, de 1’, c 2 Oratoire, de 1’, f 4 63 Orfevres, des, f 4 Orleans, d', f 4 Orleans, d’, g 4 Orleans, d’, g 6 ilrmeaux, des, k 5 7 Ormesson, d’, g 4 Orties, des, e 3 Oseille, de 1’, h 4 Ouest, de 1', g 5 G Ours, aux, g 3 4 Oursine, de 1’, f 6 7 P. 1 I Pagevhi, f 3 Paillassons, des, c d 5 Paix, de la, e 3 7 Palatine, e 5 29 Paon, du, f 5 "! , Paon, du, g 5 15 Paon-Bianc, du, g 5 Papillon, f 2 Paradis, de, g 4 Paradis, de, g 2 Parc Royal, du, g 4 Parcheminerie, de la, f § Pas-de-la-Mule, du, h 4 Pastourelle, g 4 Paul, St., g 3 Pavee, f 5 Pav^e, g 4 Pavee, f 3 2 Paxent, St., g 3 Payenne, g 4 25 P^lerius St. Jacques, des, f 3 Pelican, du, f 4 Pelleterie, de la, f 4 Pepiniirc, de la, d 2 Perc^e, f 5 Percee, g 4 Perche, du, g 4 Perdue, f 5 Peres, des Ste., e 4 5 2 Perigueu'X, de, h 4 Perle, de la, g 4 13 Pernelle, g 4 2 Perpignan, de, f 4 5 44 Perrin-Gasselin, f 4 Petit Bourbon, du, e 5 I Petit Carreau, du, f 3 ^ Petit Champ, du, f 7 .13 Petit Crucifix, du, f 4 Petit Gentilly, du, g7 j ! Petit Hurleur, du, g 3 ' Petit Lion, du, f 3 Petit Lion, du, f S Petit Moine, du, g 6 Petit Muse, du, h 5 22 Petit Pont, du, f 5 10 Petit Reposoir, du, f 3 Petit Thouars, du, g 3 Petit \ augirard, du, d 5 Petite Rue des Acacias, d 5 Petite Rue du Bac, o 5 Petite Rue de Baiiquier, g 7 t B 5 14 RCES 1 Petite Rue de Chevert, c 4 18 Petite Friperie, de la, f 4 Petite Rue Neuve St. Gilles, h 4 24 Petite Rue de Marivaux, f 4 Petite Rue St. Pierre, h 4 ; Petit Rue de Reuilly, j 5 ' Petit Rue Taranne, e 5 45 Petite Truanderie, de la, f 4 Petite Rue Verle, d 3 3 Petite Voirie, de la, d 2 3 Petite Rue de la Vriilierc, f 3 Petits Augustins, des, e 4 , Petits-Champs, des-, g4 Petites-Ecuries, des, g 2 Phelipaux, g 3 11 Philippe, St., f 3 2 Philippe, St., g 3 Piepus, de, k 5 6 84 Pied de Bceuf, du, f 4 20 Pierre des Arcis, St., f 4 P.ierre, St., f 3 Pierre, St., h 4 25 Pierre-^-Poissons, f 4 3 Pierre- Assis, g 6 Pierre-au-Lard, g 4 12 Pierre-aux-BQeufs,'St., f 5 Picrre-l’Escot, f 4 2 Pierre-Lombard, g G Pierre-Sarrasin, f 5 Pigale, e 2 47 Pilliers des Potiers d’Etain, des, f 4 Pinou, f 2 47 Pirouette, f 4 Place Vendfime, de la, see Louis-le-Graiid, e 3 Placide, Ste., e 5 Planche, de la, e 5 26 Planclie-Mibray, de la, f 4 Planchette, de la, h 5 14 Plat d’Etain, du, f 4 Pl^tre, du, f 5 Platre, du, g 4 Plumet, d 5 13 Plumets, des, g 4 Pochet, see Brodcurs, d 5 41 Poirees, des, f 5 Poirier, du, g 4 Poissonni^re, f 3 Poissy, de, g 5 23 Poitevins, des, f 5 Poitiere, de, c 2 Poitiers, de, e 4 Poitou, de, g 4 Poliveau, de, g 4 ^ Pompe, de la, c 4 Ponceau, du, g 3 Pont-aux-Biches, du, g 6 5 Pont-aux Biches, du, g 3 Pont-aux-Choux, du, h 4 Pont de Lodi, du, f 4 Ponthieu, de, c 2 Pontoise, de, g 5 Popincourt, de, h 4 Port-jdahou, du, e 3 Por.e-Foin, g 3 Postes, des, f 6 Pot-de-Fer, du, e 5 Pot-de-Fer, f 6 Poterie, de la, g 4 Poterie, de la, f 4 Poultier, g 5 Poules, des, f 6 Poulies, des, f 4 Poupee, f 5 17 Pourtour, du, g 4 Prdcheurs, des, f 4 Pr^trelle, f 2 24 Pr^tres, des, f 5 Pretres, des, f 4 Pretres, des, g 5 25 Pretres, des, f 5 i Princesse, e 5 Projetee, d e 2 Prouvaires, des, f 4 Provence, de, c f 2 Puits, du, g 4 Puits-de-rHermite, du, g 6 Puits-qui-parle, du, f G Quatre-Fils, des, g 4 Quatre-Vents, des, f 5 56 Quenouilles, des, f 4 Quiberon, de, see Montpen- sier, f 3 Quimeampoix, g 4 6 Quinze-'Vingts, des, e4 R. Racine, f 5 RUES; 11 Rambouillet, de, j 6 Rameau, f 3 des, f 5 J^ts, des, j 4 R^ale, de la, f 4 . R^collets, des, g 2 Regard, du, e 5 21 Regnard, f 5 17 Regnault-Lefevre, g 4 Regrali^re, g 5 Reine-Blanche, de la, g 6 7 6 Rempart, du, e 3 Renard, du, g 4 ; Renard, du, f 3 Reuilly, de, j k 5 6 7 Rheims, de, f 5 , Ribout^, f 2 'Richelieu, de, e f 3 Richepanse, e 3 Richer, f 2 Rivoli, de, e 3 Roch, St., f 3 Rochechouard, de la, f 1 2 Rochefoucault, de la, e 2 Rocher, du, d 2 , Rohan, de, e 4 Roi-de-Sicile, da, g 4 Remain, St., d 5 Roquepine, d 2 Roquette, de la, h j 4 5 Rosiers, des, g 4 Rosiers, des, see St. Gull. laume, e 4 llonle, du, f 4 Rousselet, d 5 Rousselet, d 3 Royale, h 4 5 Royale, d e 3 2 Royale, g 3 S. Sabin, St., h 4 Sabot, du, e 5 Saintonge, de, h 3 4 18 Salle-au-Comte, g 4 Sanson, g 3 Sante, de la, f 7 6 Sartine, de, f 4 Saussayes, des, d 3 Sauveur, St., f 3 Savonuerie, de la, f 4 Savoye, dc, f 6 Sclpion, de, g (j Sebastien, St., h 4 Seine, de, f 4 5 Seine, de, g 5 6 Sentier, du, f 3 Serpente, f 5 Sept-Voies, des, f 5 ' Servandoni, e 5 Severin, St., f 5 Sevres, de, d e 5 33 Simon-Finct, g 4 Simon-le-Franc, g 4 Singes, des, g 4 Soly, f 3 25 Sonnerie, de la, f 4 Sorbonne, de, f 5 Soufflot, f 5 Sourdi^re, de la, e 3 4 Spire, St. g 3 Sully, de, h 5 Surenne, de, d 3 T. 12 Tabletterie, de la, f 4 Tacherie, de la, g 4 3 Taillepain, g4 Taitbout, e 2 3 Tannerie, de la, f g 4 Taranne, e 5 26 Teinturiers, des, f 4 Temple, du, g 3 4 Terres-fortes, des, h 5 7 Th^r^se, e 3 Thevenot, f g 3 Thibautod^, f 4 Thionville, de, see Dauphinc, f 4 Thiroux, e 2 Thomas, St., f 5 4 Thomas d’Aquin, St., e 4 Thomas da Louvre, St., e 4 Thorigny, de, g 4 Tiquetonne, f 3 Tirechappe, f 4 r, Tiron, g 4 Tixeranderie, de la, g 4 Tonnellcrie, de la, f 4 Tour, de la, h 3 Tour-d’Auvergne, de la, f 2 B 6 12 RUES. Tour-des-Dames, de la, e 2 Toui aine, de, g 4 Touraine, de, f 5 Tournelle, de la, g 5 Tournelles, des, h 4 19 Tourniquet, St. Jean, du, g 4 Tournon, de, f 5 Tracy, de, g 3 Trainee, f 4 Transnouain, g 3 Traverse, de, d 5 Traversi^re, h 5 Traversi^;re, e 3 Traversine, f 5 Tripperet, g 6 5 Trognon, f 4 Trois-Bornes, des, li 3 9 Trois-Canettes, des, f 5 3 Trois-Chandelliers, des, f 5 6 Trois-Couronnes, des, g 6 Trois-Couronnes, des, h j 3 Trois-Fr^res, de*, e 2 51 Trois-Maures, des, f 4 9 Trois-Maures, des, g 4 Trois-Pavillons, des, g 4 6 Trois-Pistolets, des, g 5 20 Trois-Portes, des, f 5 Trousse-Vache, f 4 Trouvee, h 5 Trudon, e 2 34 Tuerie, de la, f 4 Turenne, de, see St. Louis, h 4 U. Ulm, d’, f 6 University, de V, e 4 University, de P, d e 4 Urselines, des, f 6 V. ; Val-de-Grace, du,f6 Valois, de, d 2 Valois) de, f 3 Valois, de,e 4 Vannerie, de la, g 4 6 Vannes, de, f 4 2 Vannes, St. g 3 6 Varennes, de, f 4 Varennes, de, d 4 I - Vaugirard, de, d e f 5 6 Vendome, de, g h 3 Venise, de, g 4 Ventadour, de, e 3 Verdelet, f 3 Verderet, f 3 Verneuil, de, e 4 Verrerie, de la, g4 Versailles, de, g 5 Vert-Bois, du, g 3 V ertus, des, g 3 y iarmes, de, f 4 9 "Vide-Gousset, f 3 Yictoire, de la, see Chaute- reine, e f 2 Victor, St., f g 5 C Vieilles-Arndriettes, des, g 4 26 Vieille-Bouclerie, de la, f 5 Vieille-Draperie, de la, f 4 Vieille-Estrapade, de la, f 6 Vieilles-Etuves, des, f 4 Veilles-Etuves, des, g 4 20 Vieilles-Garnisons, des, g 4 34 Vieille-Harengerie, de la, f 4 34 Veille-Lanterne, de la, f 4 Vieille-Notre-Dame, g6 26 Vicille-Place aux Veaux, de la, f 4 34 Vieille-Tannerie, de la, f 4 Vieille-Rue du Temple, g 4 Vieilles-Tuileries, des, e 6 Vierge, de la, c 4 Vieux-Augustins, des, f 3 Vieux-Colombier, du, e 5 Vignes, des, e 3 Vignes, des, g 7 ; Villedot, e 3 Ville-l’Evfique, de la, d 2 3 Villiot, h 6 Vinaigriers, des, g h 2 3 4 Vincent-de-Paule, St., e 4 Vivienne, f 3 3 Voirie, de la, h 3 Voirie, de la, g 1 Voirie, de la, d 2 Voltaire, de, f 5 Vosges, des, see Roy ale, h 4 Vrilliyre, de la, f 3 W. 2 Wertingen, see Furstemb. e 4 z. : 27 Zacbarie, f 6 13 RUELLES. 5 Beauregard, f 2 J Buvette-Chanip^ti e, de la, c 3 I Ferme-de-Grenelle, de la, c 5 I Gobelins, des, g 7 Jardiniers, des, j 6 Jardiniers, des, h 4 Jean-Bouton, de, h j 5 Lilas, des, h 4 Moulin Joli, du, j 3 Pelce, h 4 Planchette, de la, j U Quatre-Chemins, des, j k 6 Rue-Projetee, de la, c 4 Sabin, St. h 4 Sourdis, de, g 4 Trois-Chandelles, des, j 6 Trois-Sabres, des, k G CUL-DE-SACS. f 28 Amboise, d’, f 5 ■ 21 Anglais, des, g 4 ‘ 28 Argenson, d’, g 4 Argenteuil, d’, e 2 8 Aumont, d’, g 5 6 Babillards, des g 3 Basfour, de, g 3 Baudin, e 2 18 Beaufort, dc, g 4 84 Beaudoirie, de la, g 4 8 Benoit, St., g 4 Bernard, St., j 5 Berthaud, g 4 Biset, e 2 Blanchissciises, des, c 3 23 Bceuf, du, g 4 41 Bosufs, des, f 5 9 Bon-Puits, du, g 5 Boule-Rouge, de la, f 2 27 Bourdonnais, des, f 4 Bouteille, de la, f 3 19 Bouvart, f 5 8 Brasserie, de la, e 3 Briare, de, f 2 3 Cargaisons, des, f 5 5 Carmelites, des, f G 7 Catherine, Ste., g 3 Ccndrier, du, e 3 ' Charbonniers, des, h 5 5 Cbat-Blanc, du, f 4 7 Chevalier-du Guet, du, f 4 10 Clade, St., f 3 Claude, St., Ii 4 Claude, St., h 5 24 Clairvaux, de, g 4 17 Conti, f 4 Coquenard, f 2 25 Coquerelle, g 4 9 Corderic, de la, e 3 .30 Cour-de-Rohan, de la, f 5 9 Courbatou, du, f 4 Coypel, f 2 .35 Croix, Ste., g 4 7 Dandrelas, g 6 Dominique, St., f 5 Echiquier, de 1’ g 4 ' Egout, de r, g 3 Enfant-Jesus, de 1% d 6 Etoile, de P, d 4 12 Etoile, de P, f 3 24 Etuves, des, f 4 26 Faron, St., g 4 Ferrae-des-Mathurins,de la,e2 3 ~8 Ferou, e 5,‘ Feuilliintines, des, f 6 15 Fiacre, St., f 4 Fiacre, St., h 3 ’ ' _ 9 Filles-Dieu, des, g 3 Forgc-Royale, de la, j 5 27 Fourcy, de, g 4 Grand-St. Michel, du, g 2 Crenelle, de, d 4 1 Gr^nctat, g 3 4 Grosse-Xke, de la, g 3 Gu^m^n^e, h 5 27 Guepinc, g 4 .2 Hautfort, f 6 22. Heaumerie, dc la, f 4 14 CUL DE SACS. 3 Hospitali^res, des, h 4 Jean-Beausire, h 4 9 Jerusalem, de, f 5 8 Landry, St., f 4 Launay, de, j 4 Laurent, St., g 2 Lazare, St., g 2 Longue-Avoine, de, e 7 Louis, St., h 3 23 Magloire, St., f 4 Marais-Rouges, des, g 2 4 Marche-aux-Chevaux, du, g 6 12 Marine, Ste., f 5 16 Martial, St., f 4 Martin, St., g 3 13 Mauconseil, f 3 Mont-Parnasse, du, e 6 17 Mont-Thabor, du, e 3 Morlaix, h 2 Mortagne, de, j 5 48 Nevers, de, f 4 2 Nicolas, St., g 3 1 Opportune, Ste., f 4 29 Paon, du, f 5 Patriarches, des, f g 6 8 Peintres, des, g 3 P^quay, g 4 9 Petite-Bastille, de la, f 4 4 Pierre, St., b 4 14 Pierre, St., f 3 Planchette, de la, g 3 Plumet, d 5 4 Poissonnerie, de la, g 4 Pompe, de la, g 3 9 Provenceaux, des, f 4 10 Puits-de-Rome, du, g 3 38 Putigneux, g 4 Quatre-Veuts, des, f 5 Reservoirs, des, b 3 Reuilly, de, j 5 23 R61iin-prend-Gages, f 4 Roquettc, de la, h 4 Rue-Projetee, de la, e 2 3 Sabin, St., h 4 22 Salembri^re, f 5 Sebasticn, St., h 4 5 Sosurs, des, g 6 9 Sourdis, de, f 4 9 Treille, de la, f 4 Trois-Fr^res, des, h 5 19 Trois.Visages, des, f 4 Venise, de, g 4 9 Versailles, de, g 4 Vert-Buisson, du, c 4 Vieilles-Tuileries, des, e 5 Vignes, des, f 6 PASSAGES. 11 Ancre-Nationale, de 1', g 3 14 Ancien-Grand-Cerf, de P, f 3 12 Aubert, g 3 18 Beaufort, de, g 4 10 Benoit, St., f 5 9 Benoit, St., e 5 13 Bois de-Boulogne, du, g 3 15 Bonnefoi, f 3 2 Boule-Blanche, de la, h 5 1 Boule-Rouge, de la, f 2 1 Caf^-de-foi, du, f 3 Caire, du, f g 3 Cendrier, du, e 3 29 Chartreux, des, f 4 7 Chblets, des, f 5 13 Cirque-Olympique, du, e 3 30 Cloltre^St. Honor6, du, f 4 Cloltre-St. Jacques I’Hop, f 3 10 Commerce, du, g 3 31 Cour-Batare, de la, f 4 30 Cour-du-Commcrce, de la, f 5 15 Cour-du-Dragon, de la, e 5 Cour-du-Puits-de-Rome, de la, g 3 Cour-du-Retiro, de la, d 3 5 Cour-des-Miracles, de la, h 4 30 Conr-dc-Rohan, de la, f 5 35 Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, Ste., g 4 15 Dames-S. Cliaumout, des, g 3 Besir, du, g 2 7 Eustacbe, St., f 3 Feydeau, f 3 3 Foire-St. Laurent, de la, g 2 11 Galerie-de-l’Onne, de l.a, e 3 1 Genty, h 6 ^ PASSAGES; 15 16 55 14 Guillaume, St., e 3 • Grand-Cerf, clu, g 3 Grand-Chantier de Tivoli, dti, e2 H&tel d’Aligre, de 1% f 4 H&tel-dcs Fermes, de 1’, f 3 Jeu-de Paume, du, f 4 Jussienne, de la, f 3 Lemoine, g 3 Longue-Allee, de la, g 3 Louis, St g4 Luxembourg, dn, e 6 Madeleine, de la, f 4 Manage, du, e 5 Mai ie, Ste., e 4 Messageries, des, f 3 Moli^re, de, g 4 , Montesquieu, de, f 4 Noir, f 4 Panoramas, des, f 3 I 1 , 29 10 Petites-Pdres, des, f 3 Perron, du, f 3 Petit-St. Antoine, du, g 4 Petite-Boucherie, de la, e 5 Petites-Ecuries, des, g 2 Pierre, St., g 5 Pompe-^-feu, de la, c 3 Quinze.Vingts, des, e 4 Radziwill, f 3 Rcine-de-Hongrie, dc la, f 3 Retiro, du, see cour id, d 3 Reunion, de la, g 4 Roch, St., e 3 Saumon, du, f 3 Saiioier, f 2 Soleil-d’Or, du, c 2 Trinity, de la, f 3 Variates, des, e 3 Vigan, du, f 3 PLACES. 31 Andre-des-Arts, St., f 5 1 AngonISme, d’, h 3 Antoine, St., see Bastille, h 5" Austerlitz, d’, see Museum, f 4 ■ ' Bastille, de la, h 5 IT Baudoyer, g 4 1 Beauveau, de, d 3 Breteuil, de, d 5 15 Caire, du, f 3 13 Cambray, de, f 5 Carousel, du, e 4 40 Carr^-Ste., Genevieve, du, f 4 Garreau-dc-la-Halle, du, f 4 34 Chatelet, du, f 4 7 Chevalier-du-Gnet, du, f 4 2 Collegiale, de la, g 4 Concorde, de la, see Louis-lS d 4 2 Croix, Ste. e 4 Raupliine, f 4 Dupieix, b c 5 35 Ecole, de 1’, f 4 22 Ecole-de-Medccine, de 1*, f 5 3 f«trapadc, de T, f 6 22 Eustachc, St., f 3 2 Fi-'lelite, de la, g 2 Fonteuoy, de, e 5 4 Fonrey, de, f 6 1 Gastine, f 4 36 Germain I’Auxerrois, St. f 4 11 Germain-des-Pr^s, St., e 5 H&pital St. Antoine, de 1’, j 5 HfeteUle-Ville, de 1', g 4 13 Italiens, des, f 3 23 Jacques de laBoucherie, St ,f4 Louis 15, de, d 3 ' Louvre, du, f 4 Marche-aux-Veaiix, du, g 5 March^ de Beauveau, du, j 5 Marche-des-Innocents, du, f 4 12 March^ des-Jacobins, dn, e 3 Marcbe-St. Jean, du, g 4 March6-Ste. Catherine, du, g 4 Marengo, de, see Oratoire, f 4 12 Marguerite, Ste., e 5 Maubert, f 5 Maras, h 6 33 Michel, St., f 5 2 Montbolon, de, f 2 11 Morland, g 5 Museum du, f 4 Nicolas des Champs, St., g 3 » Odeon, do 1’, f 5 12 Opportune, Ste., f 4 16 PLACES, Oratoire, de V, f 4 Palais Bourbon, du, d 4 42 Palais de Justice, du, f 4 38 Palais Royal, du, f 4 Pantheon, dii, f 5 Parvis-Notre-Dame, du, f 5 9 Petits-Pdres, des, f 3 26 Pont-St. Michel, du, f 5 Rivoli, de, e 3 17 Rotonde-dn-Temple, de la, g 3 Royale, h 4 6 Scipion, de, g 6 Sorbonne, de, f 5 Sulpice, St., e 5 Thionville, de, jee Daiiphine, f 4 4 Thomas-d’Aquin, St., e 4 ” 50 Trois-Maries, des, f 4 Tr&ne, du, k 5 2 Vannes, St., g 3 Vauban, de, d 5 Vendome, e 3 Victoires, des, f 3 CARREFOURS. 9 Benoit, St., e 5 Bussy, de, f 5 13 Butte-St. Roch, de la, e 3^ 13 Croix Rouge, de la, e 5 GaHlon, de, e 3 34 Oi&Ann, de 1’, f 5 1 Rddlly, de, j 5 BOULEVARDS. Antoine, St., h 4^ Bonne-Nouvelle, de, f g 3 t Bourdon, h 5 Capucines, des, e 3 Denis, St., g 3 Enfer, d’, e 6 Filles-du-Calvaire, des, h 4 Gobelins, des, f g 7 Hopital, de, g 6 7 . Invalides, des, h 4 5 j Italiens, des, e f 3 Jacques, St., e f 7 Madeleine, de la, e 3 Martin, St., g 3 Montmartre, f 3 Mont-Parnasse, du, d e 6 Poissonni^re, f 3 Temple, du, h 3 , ALLEES. Antin, d’, d 3 / Veuves, des, c d 3 AVENUES. Arsenal, de 1’, h 5 Bel-Air, du, k 5 Bourdonnaye, de la, c 4 Bretenil, de, d 5 f Cours-la-Reine, du, c d 3 Lowendal, de 1’, c 5 Mande-St., de, k 5 6 Marigny, de, d 3 Molte-Piquet, de la, c 4 5 Neuilly, de, c d Ormes, des, k 5 Saxe, de, d 5 S^gur, de, d 5 SuflFren, de, c 5 Tourville, de, c d 5 Triumphes, des, k 5 Villars, de, d 5 QUAIS, 17 Alen^on, d’, see Bourbon, g 5 Anjou, d', g 5 Archevfeche, de T, f g 5 Bernard, St., g 5 B^thune, de, g 5 Bignon, f 5 Bonaparte, see Orsay, d e 4 Bourbon, de, g 5 Celestines, des, g ^ Cit^, de la, f g 4 5 Conference, de la, c d 3 Conti, de. f 4 Debilly, b 4 Desaix, f 4 Ecole, de 1’, f 4 Feraille, de la, see M^gisserie, f 4 Gevres, de, f 4 Grands-Augustins, des, f 4 Grfeve, de la, g 4 H&pital, de 1’, h 6 Horloge, de 1’, f 4 Invalides, des, see Orsay, c d 4 Louvre, ^i, e f 4 Lunettes, des, see Horloge, f 4 Malaquais, e 4 Megisserie, de la, f 4 Monnaie, de la, see Conti, f 4 Montebello, de, see Bignon, f 5 Morland, g h 5 Napoleon, see Cite, f g 4 5 Orfevres, des, f 4 Orleans, d’, g 5 Ormes, des, g 5 Orsay, d’, b c d e 4 Paul, St., g 5 Pelletier, f g 4 Rupee, de la, h 6 Tournelle, de la, g 5 Tuileries, des, e 4 Valine, de la, see Gr. Augus- tins, f4 Y oltaire, de, e 4 FONTS. Arts, des, f 4 Change, au, f 4 35 Charles, St. f 5 < Cite, de la, g 5 Concorde, de la, see Loais-l6, d 34 36 Doubles, aux, f 5 Grammont, de, g 5 ■ Invalides, des, b 4 Jardin du Roi, du, h 6 Louis-16> de, d 3 4 Marie, g 5 Michel, St., f 5 Neuf, f 4 Notre-Dame, f 4 Petit-Pont, f 5 Royal, e 4 Tournelle, de la, g 5 Bled, au, g 4 12 Mail, du, g 5 Nicolas, St., e 4 13 Paul, St., g 5 PORTS. i Piles, des Sts., e 4 14 Tuiles, aux, g 5 Vins, aux, g 5 HALLES. C Bled, au, f 4 5 Cuirs, aux, f 3 54 Draps, aux, f 4 ! 39 Laines, aux, f o j Yins, aux, g 5 I MARCHES. 14 Abbayc-St. Germain, deP, e 5 2 Aguesseau, d’, d 3 Beauveau, de, f 5 32 Blancs-Manteaiix, des, g 4 5 Boulainvillicis, e 4 Cannes, des, f 5 Catherine, Ste., g 4 Chevaux, aux, g 6 22 Enfans-Rougcs, des, g 4 Plcurs, aux, sec Quai Desaix, f 4 18 39 Gibier, au, f 4 ’ Innocents, des, f 4 12 Jacobins, des, e 3 Jean, St., g 4 24 Joseph, St., f 3 Martin, St., g 3 ^ Neuf, f 5 Place-Maubert, de la, f 5 Porte St. Denis, de la, g 3 Porte-St. Martin, de la, g 3 15 Rue de-SSvres, de la, d e 5 Veaux, aux, g 5 Vieux-Linge, au, g 3 ENCLOS. 38 Jean-de-Latran, St., f 5 {1 Trinity, de la, g 3 CLOITRES. 10 Benoit, St., f 5 36 German I’Auxerrois, St., f 4 30 Honore, St., f 4 13 Jacques-la-Boucherie, St., je® Place idem, f 4 28 Opportune, Ste., see Place idem, f 4 COURS. 19 Albret, d’, f 5 1 Arsenal, de 1’, h 5 31 Ratave, f 4 46 Chapelle, de la ^te., f 4 7 Cholets, des, f 5 Commerce, de, f 4 30 Commerce, du, f 5 Commerce, du, g 3 15 Dragon, du, e 5 40 Fontaines, des, f 4 8 Guillaume, St., e 3 41 Harlay, de, f 4 4 Antoine, St., d^moHe, h 5 16 Bernard, St., demolie, g 5 , Denis, St., g 3 Joseph, h 6 3 Juiverie, de la, h 5 18 Jussienne, de la, f 3 41 Lamoignon, de, f 4 19 Martin, St., g 3 2 Miracles, des, f 3 42 Palais-de-Justice, du, f 4 Palais-Royal, du, f 3 Puits-de-Rome, du, g 3 30 Rohan, f 5 R^tiro, du, d 3 FORTES. 14 Honore, St. demolie, e 3 39 Jacques, St., demolie, f 5 Martin, St., g 3 BARRIERES. Amandiers, des,J 4 Arcueil, d’, e 7 Aanay, d', f 4 Bassins, des, b 3 Belleville, de, h 3 Bercy, de, j 6 Blanche, e 1 Boyauterie, de la, h 2 Charenton, de, j 6 Chartres, de, fermee, d 2 Chopinette, de la, h 2 Clichy, de, e 1 Combat, du, h 2 Courcelles, de, c 2 Croulebarbe, de, t 7 Cunette, de la, b 4 Denis, at., g 1 Deux Moulins, des, g 7 Ecole Militaire, de 1’, e 5 Enter, d’, e 7 Etoile, de 1’, see Neuilly, c 2 Fontainebleau, de, see Italic, g 7 19 Fontarabie, de, k 4 Fourneaux, de*, d G Franklin, b 4 ,, Gare, de la, h 6 ‘ Grenelle, de, b 5 Italie, d’, g 7 Ivry, d’, g 7 Jacques, St., sfBe Arcueil, e t Long-Champs, de, b 3 Maine, da, d 6 Mande, de St., k 6’ Marengo, de, see CharentODj j6 Marie, Ste., b 4 Martin, St., see Villette, h 1 Martyrs, des, f 1 Menilmontant, de, j 3 Montmartre, f 1 Mont-Parnasse, du, e 6 Montreuil, de, k 5 Mouceaux, de, d 2 Neuilly, de, c 2 Oursine, de 1’, 5 7 Pantin, de, h 1 Paillassons, des, ferm^e, c 5 Passy, de, b 4 Picpus, de, k 6 Poissonni^rc, f 1" I E,ap6e, de la, h 6 Ramponeau, j 3 Rats, des, fermee,j 4 Reservoirs, des, see Bassin* ferm6e, b 3 Reuilly, de, k 6 Rochechouard, de la, f 1 Roule, du, c 2 Sante, de la, f 7 Sevres, de, d 6 Trois-Couromies, des, j 3 Trone, du, see Vincennes, k 5 Vaugirard, de, d 6 Vertus, des, fermee, h 1 Villette, de la, h 1 Vincenpes, de, k 5 ABATTOIRS. Grenelle, de, d 5 I Roule, du, d 2 Menilmontant, de, j 4 Ville-Juif, de, g 7 Montmartre, de, f 1 j PALAIS. Tuileries, des, e 4i Louvre, du, f 4 Charabre des Pairs, de la, f 5 Chambre des Deputes, see Bourbon, d 4 Royal, f 3 Bourbon, d 4 Elys^e-Bourbon, de P, d 3 42 Justice, de, f 4 37 Beaux-Arts, des, f 4 7 Legion-d’honneur, de la, e 4 Archiepiscopal, g5 Bourse, de la, f 3 HOPITAUX DE MALADES 36 H6tel-Dieu, de 1’, f 5 . Pitie, de la, g 6 22 Ecole de Medecine, de 1’, f 5 Charite, de la, e 4 St. Antoine, j 5 | L Cochin, f 7 Necker, d 5 6 BeaujoH, c 2 Enfans-maiadcs, des, d 5 6 St. Louis, h 2 Veneriens, des, f<>_ MAISONS DE SANTE. I Rue iu fg. St. Jacques, f 0 ^ | Rue du fg. St. Martin, g 2 HOPITAUX MILITAIRES. Invalides, des, d 4 j Maison des Oiseaux, de la, d 5 Gros-Caillou, c 4 J Val-de-Gilce, f 6 MAISONS DE RETRAXTE. Moatrouge oi la Sante, de, e 7 | Stc. Perine, i Gbaillot, de, c 3 HOSPICES D'INDIGENS. Avengles, aux 15-20, des, b 5 Sourds-Mnets, des, f 6 IMaternite, accouchement, de la, e 6 ^Maternit^, allaitement, de la, ft) ^alpetridre, de la, g h 6 Bicfetre, hors de Paris Incurables, femmes, des, d 5 Incurables, hommes, des, g 2 Orphelins, des, h 5 _ Menages, des, e 5 43 Centrale de la Vaccine, f 5,< PRISONS CIVILES. Bicetre, hors de Paris, de 42 Conciergerie, de la, f 4 Gi ande ct Petite P’orce, de la, S 4 S. Lazare, g 2 ' ‘ Madelonnettes, des, g 3 Ste. Pelagic, 9 6 •PRISONS MILIT AIRES 12 Abbaye, de 1’, e 3 j Montaigu, de, f 5 MAIRIES. ^ ler. Arrondissenient. Rue du Faubourg, St. Honor4, Mo. 14 2«. Arrondisicment. Rue d’ Antin, Hotel Mondragon, Mo. 3 3e. Arrondlssement, Aux Petits. Pdres, Place des Vic- loires. 4e. Arrondlssement. Place du Chevalier du Guet, ;NO. 14 Se. Arrondlssement. Rue Grange aux Belles, INo. 2 ^ Ge. Arrondlssement. Rue St. Martin, a la Ci-devant Abbaye. le. Arrondlssement. Rue Ste. Avoye, Hotel St. Aignan, Mo. of Be. Arrondlssement. Place Iloyale, Mo. 14. 9e. Arrondlssement. , Rue de Jouy, Mo. 9. lOe. Arrondlssement. Rue de Vcrnciii!, Mo. 13. lie. Arrondlssement. Rue de Vieux Coioinbier, No. 29. 12e. Arrondisscmcnt.' Rue St. Jacques, Mo. 202, Printed by W. ChUVV ES, Morthuinberland-courl, Strand. NEW WORKS AND NEW EDITIONS, rOBLISHED BY SAMUEL LEIGH, 18 , STRAND. 1. LElGffs NEW * PICTURE of lENGLAND and WALES, comprehending a Description of the Principal Towns, Ancient Remains, Natural and Artificial Curiosities. Soil and Produce, Agriculture, Manufactures, Rivers and Canals, Principal Seats, and Bathing Places ; also. Historical and Biographical Notices, and a Synopsis of the Counties &c. &c. Price 12s. boards, 13s. bound. Embellished with the following Views, !fc. All Saint’s Church, Northampton. Chepstow Castle. Crescent, Bath. Conway Castle. Doncaster Race Stand. Dover Castle. Devil’s Kridge. Hastings. Hot Wells. Bristol. King’s College, Caaihridge, Liverpool. Leasowes. Liaco.n. LandalF Cathedral. Matleck. Malvern AhheT. Oxford High Street. Peake’s Hole. Rydcj. Scarbrough Castle. Shakespeare’s House, Stratford. St;. Alban’s Abbey. Staync, Brighton. Salisbury CathedraX. Southamptou. Sandrock Hotel. St. Michael’s Mount. Wyudcrmerc Lake. Woburn Abbey. Wynn Stay. Mog of England and We es 2 BOOKS PUBLISHBT) BY 2. LEIGH'S NEW POCKET ATLAS of the Counties of England and Wales, consisting of Fifty-six Maps, including a general Map ; to which is added, a complete Index of Towns, Villages, Country Seats, Rivers, Canals, &c. 12s. half-bound. 3. LEIGH'S NEW PICTURE of LONDON and its Environs ; or, a View of the Political, Religious, Medical, Literary, Municipal, Commercial, and Moral State of the British Metropolis. Presenting a brief ar.d luminous Guide to the Stranger on all Subjects connected wdth general In- formation, Business, or Amusement. New Edition, 18mo. 9s. bound. Embellished with the following Views, ^c. St. Paul’s Cathedral. St. Martin in the Fields. St. George, Bloomsbury. C4irigt Church, Spital Fields St. Mary-le-Strand. St. Clement Danes. St. Paul, Coveni-Garden. Mary-le-bone New Church. Shoreditch Church. Bow Church, Cheapside. St. Paneras Churcli. St.Sepulchre, Skinner-st. St. George, Hanover-sq. St. Andrew, Holboni. Stepney Church. Kweed’s Church. Henry the Seventh’s Cha- pel, Westminster, l^rtland Chapel. VVestininstei- Abbey. Admiralty. Sessions’ House, C'lerken- wcll "U'estminster Mall. South Sea House. St. George’s Hospital. Library, iled-Cross-street. Charing Cro«s. St. Luke’s Hospital. Ironnmiigers’ Hall. Christ Church Hospital. Marlborough House. Lambeth Palace. King’s Mevrs. Hyde Park Corner. The Albany. Adelphi. Earl Spencer’s Hou«e. The Penitentiary. College of Piiysieians. Treasury. Entrance to St. James’s Palace. Carlton House. Buckingham House. Guildtnill, Westminster. GiUspur-street Compter. Sessions’ Hoiisc,01d Bailey Whitehall. Tower, from Tharaes-st. ('old Bath Fields Prison. Excise Office. The Mint. Newgate. Somerset House, Front. Ditto, from the Thames. Horse-Guards, from the Park. Temple Bar. Trinity House. The Bank. Mansion House. Foundling Hospital. British Museum. Merchant Taylors’ Hall. Burlington House. Crosby House. Northumberland House. Chelsea Hospital. Opera House. Covent-Ga'-nen Theatre. Drury-Lane Theatre. Holla'nd House.- Bullock’s Museum. Hampton Court. The Maze at Hampton Court. Fregmore. Oatlands. Windsor Cast’e. Surgeons’ Hall. London Institution. St. Paul’s School. Bartholomew’s Hospital. Guildhall. East India House. Royal Exchange. Deaf and Dumb Asylum. Mercers’ Hall. Monument. .Shakspeare Gallery. Freemason’s Cbarit) Schoo. City of London Lying-in Hospital. New Betl lehem. Auction Mart. New Custom House. St. Bride’s Church. Tavistock Chape). Whitfield’s Chapel. Spa Fields Chapel. .Surrey Chape). Philanthropic Chapel. Fishmongers’ Hall. Greenwich Hospital. Kensington Palace. Eton College. Academy, Homerton. Claren.o'nt. Wanstead House. Vauxhail Bridge. Westminster Bridge. Waterloo Bridge. Blackfriars’ P.ri(lge. London Bridge. Southwark Bridge. Large and correct Pla* Londoti. Map of the Euvarans. 3 SAMUEL LEIGH, 18 , STRAND, 4. LEIGH'S NEW PICTURE of LONDON and its En- virons, with Twenty-four Plates, exhibiting the Costume of the Low'er Orders. j ;^18mo. bound, 12s. 5. LEIGH’S NEW PICTURE of LONDON and its En- virons, w'ith Rowlandson’s Characteristic Sketches. 18mo. bound, 15s. G. ROWLANDSON’S CHAIiACTERTSTIC SKETCHES of the LOWER ORDERS of the British Metropolis, intended as a Companion to the New Picture of London, consisting of Fifty-four Plates, neatly coloured, 18mo. half-bound, 7s. FOR TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT. 7. PLANTA’s NEW PICTURE of PARIS ; or, the Stran- ger’s Guide to the French Metropolis : accurately describing the Public Establishments, remarkable Edifices, Places of Amusement, and every other object worthy of notice ; also, a Description of the Environs of Paris, and the various Routes from England, with particular Hints to Travellers, &c. Illustrated by Blaps, Plans, Views, &c. New Edition, much enlarged and entirely re -composed. Price 8s. bound. Emhellishncnts to the Picture of PaiiSy Map of the Routes to Raris. Plan of the City of Paris. Map of the Environs of Paris. View of the Catacombs. Garhe Meuble, Place Louis XV. Fasade du Palais Royal. Colonnade du Louvre. Bourse. Panthtpu. Palais du Corps Legislatif. Luxeinboursr. Palais des Beaux Arts. Val de Grace. Palais dc la Legion d’Hon- ncnr. St. Euslachc. L’Observatoirc, Hotel de la Monnaie. Porte St. Denis. Hotel des Invalides. Tuilcries, Fagade du Cote de la Cour. Tuileries, Fagade tio C*te du Jardin. La Madelaine. Fouiaine des lunoceati. Jardin des Plantes. Notre Uaiue. Arc de I’Etoilc. St. Sulpicc. Halle Aux Bits. St. Etienne du Mont. Lvcee Buonaparte. St. Rooh. Theatre des Jcuues Ar- tistes. Forte St. Martin. L’Ecole Miiitaire. Palais de Justice. L’Eglise des Jesuitcs. Fontaine de Grenelle. L'Eglisc des Filles St. Marie. Theatre des Italiens. Theatre des \ arietes. Theatre de I’Odeou. Theatre Frau9ais. Theatre Feydeau. J-’F.role de’CUirurffic St. Germain l’A\ixerrols. Arc du Carousel. La Vi lie. Oolonue dc la I'lacc Vcii- cotne. 4 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY 8. PLANTA’s NEW PICTURE of PARIS, with Thirty Plates, delineating the Costume of the Lower Orders of the French Metropolis, 18mo. bound, 11s. 9. PLANTA's GAZETTEER of FRANCE, 4s. boards 53. bonud. , 10. VASI^s NEW PICTURE of ROME and its Environs ; or, an interesting Itinerary : containing a General Descrip- tion of the Monuments and most distinguished Works in Painting, Sculpture, and Architecture, both ancient and modern, of that celebrated City and its Environs, 18mo. bound, 12s. ■ Embellished mth a correct Plan of the City and the folloiving Views : Basilica di S. Pietro in Fontana dell’ Acqua Paola. Arco detti di Giano Quad- Vaticano. Prospetto delCanipido.srlio. rifroute. Interno della Basilica di Interno dell’ Anfiteatro Ponte Lucano. a. Pietro in Vaticano. Flavio. Tempio della Sibilla a Ti- Basilica di S. Paolo fuori Piazza del Popolo. voii. le Mura. Anfiteatro Flavio detto il Sepolcro di Cajo Cestio, Interno della Basilica di Coiosseo. Avanzi del Circo di Cara- S. Paolo fuori le Mura. Piazza Colonna. calla. Basilica di S. Giovanni in Fontana di Trevi. Canipo Vaccino. Laterano. Cliiesa dellaS. Santissima Aranzi del Tempio della Znterno della Basilica di Trinita de Monti. Pace. S. Giovanni in Laterano. Piazza di Colonna Trajana. Tempio detto della Tosse. Basilica di S. Maria Mag- Piazza di Monte Cavalio. Castello dell’ Acqua Mar- giore. Porto di Ripa Grande. zia. Interno della Basilica di Parte laterale del Ponte S. Avanzi dei Tempj del Sole S. Maria Maggiore. Angelo. e della Luna. Piazza della Rotonda. Arco di Costantino. Tempio di MinervaMedica. Interno del Panteon. Arco di Tito. Sepolcro di Cecilia Metella. Porto detto di Ripetta. Le Cascatelle a Tivoli. La Gran Piazza Navcna. Avanzi del Tempio diVesta. ■ 11. VASFs NEW PICTURE of NAPLES and its Environs, in the form of an Itinerary, containing an account of the Road from Rome to Naples, and a minute Description of the Public Buildings, ancient and modern Works of Arts, &:c., in that City and its vicinity, 18mo. 10s. 6d. bound. Embellishments. Monte Vesuvio. Palazzo Reale di Napoli. Spiaggia di Mergellina. Sepolcro di Ascanjo. Grotta di Posilipo. Gajola delta Scuola di Vit- Sepolcro de’ Curiazj in Costa di Posilipo sopra la gilio. Albano. grotta. Accademia P..eale degli Tempio d’Ercole a Cora. Sepolcro di Virgilio. Stuclj Intern® del Tempio d’2r- Interno del Sepolcro di Grotta del Cane, cole a Cora. Virgilij, Solfatara di Pozxuol* SAMUEL LEIGH, 18, STRAND. 5 Teinpio * Serapide. di Neroiie. Palazzo Reale di Caeerta. Porto di Pozzuoli. Piscina Mirabile. Acqiiedotto di Caseita. Ai.fite-atro di Pozzuoli. Ceiitc CauicreUe. Arco di Trajaiio a Bene- latenio dell’ Anliteatro di Teinpio de Gig-anti aCama. veuto. Pozztoli. Arco I’elice a Cunaa. Piatita del Real Palazzo di Villa diCiceroiie aPozzuoli. Tempio d’lside. Caserta. Tempio di Diar.a Lucifera. Tempio di Nett.nnoa Pesto. Plan ■ I i . ■i J r THE tniY ttmw u8R»py