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Map. 7 a 6dt. HANDBOOK—WILTS, DORSET, AND Somerset. Map. 7#. 6M tub Earliest • mu continue I to 1858. Woodoute. l‘ott8vo. 7s. Cd. THE STUDENT S HISTORY OP Fra Net From tub Karlibbt Tim to 185A WoodcuU Post 8vo. 7*. 6u. THE 8TUDENT8 HISTORY OF Grebcr. From tub Earliest Times to thb Roman Corquest. Woodcut*. Post Svo. 7s. Ad. THE STUDENTSniSTORYOP ROME Fbom tub Earliest Times to the Estabihiimint or thb Empire WoodcuU Post Svo. 7*. Ad. TnE STUDENTS GIBBON. As Epr- T0>l * tub Declimb and Fall or tub Roman Em cut Woodcuta foot Svo. <*. 6d. THB STUDENT’S MANUAL OF Ancient Groorumr WoodcuU Poat 8vo. 7*. Ad. THE STUDENT 3 MANUAL OP THE EKGijaHLAirQUAQe. Poat 8vo. 7t. (*d. THE STUDENTS MANUAL OP Emhosb Literature. ro»t8vo. 7 j.6 • ■ •» 24. Sciathos (Sciatho) .... 328 LIST OF ROUTES. XI B. Belonging to Turkey. PAGE 1. Thasos (Thaso, Tasso) . . . 329 2. Samothraee (Samothraki) . . 329 3. Lemnos (Stalimene) .... 330 4. Imbros (Imbro).331 5. Tenedos (Tenedo), ■with La- guss® Insul®.331 6 ' ^fflenT;} ' - 3M 7. Psyra (Psara) .333 8. Chios (Scio).334 9. Icaria (Nicaria), with Corse® Insul®. 337 I 10. Samos (Samo). 337 | 11. Patmos (Patino).339 12. Leros (Lero).340 13. Calymna (Calimno) . . • 340 14. Astypahea (Stampalia) . . . 341 | PAGE 15. Cos (Staneo).341 16. Nisyros (Nisyro).342 17. Telos (Episeopi) .... 343 18. Syme (Symi).343 19. Chalce (Chalki).343 “• s; or } <*>*> ■ • • 341 21. Carpathos (Scarpanto) . . . 347 22. Casos (Caso).348 23. Crete (Candia).349 N.B. A few barren and unin¬ habited rocks in various parts of the iEgean are omitted in the above lists. The Italian names are those in brackets. SECTION IV. ALBANIA, THESSALY, MACEDONIA. Special Introductory Information.— Page 375. 31. Corfu to Joannina by Sayada and Philates . . . . . 381 32. Corfu to Joannina by Delvino and Zitza ...... 381 33. Prevesa to Joannina by Nico- polis and Suli.384 34. Prevesa to Joannina by Arta . 388 35. Joannina to Parga by Drami- sius (Passaron) and. Suli . 389 38. Joannina by Apollonia to Berat 394 37. Joannina by Premedi to Berat 398 38. Delvino by Durazzo to Scutari 399 39. Scutari to the Dalmatian fron¬ tier and Cattaro . . . . 401 j ROUTE _ PAGE 40. Tepeleni by Selinitza to Avlona 402 41. Avlona by Khimara to Butrinto 403 42. Joannina to Larissa .... 406 43. Larissa to Lamia (Zeitun) . . 409 44. Larissa to Volo and Armyro . 410 45. Larissa by Tempe to Salonica 410 46. Salonica to Mount Athos and back to Salonica . . . .415 47. Tour of the Monasteries of Mount Athos.418 48. Salonica to Scutari .... 428 49. Salonica to Constantinople . . 432 50. Scutari to Constantinople . . 435 . A HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS IN GREECE. GENERAL INTRODUCTION. a. Interest of Greek Travel; Hints and Maxims ; Mode of Travelling, &c. A JOTTRXET in Greece is full of deep and lasting interest for a traveller of every character, except indeed for a mere idler or man of pleasure. There the politician may contemplate for himself the condition and progress of a people, of illustrious origin, and richly endowed by Nature, which, after a servitude of centuries, has again taken its place among the nations of the earth ; there too alone can he form an accurate opinion on that most im¬ portant question—the present state and future destinies of the Levant. The struggles of Modern Greece must command the sympathy of all thoughtful minds—if not for her own sake, yet from the effects which may be expected to result from them in the Eastern World. “ We do not aspire to prophesy of the future fate of Constantinople, but when we think of all those Turkish subjects who speak the Greek language and profess the Greek religion; when we think of the link which the same religion has made between them and the Slavonic tribes below and beyond the Danube ; we cannot but look upon the recovery of the Christian nationality of Greece as one of the most important of modern events, or watch the development of this young kingdom without feelings of the most anxious expectation. We cannot believe that the Mahommedan tide, which was arrested at Lepanto, will ebb back no farther than Navarino.”— Quarterly Review. Nor can the artist feel less interest than the politician in the countries which we have undertaken to describe. To quote the eloquent words of Mr. Lear—“ The general and most striking character of Albanian landscape is its display of objects, in themselves beautiful and interesting, and rarely to be met with in combination. You have the simple and exquisite mountain- forms of Greece, so perfect in outline and proportion—the Take, the river, and the wide plain ; and withal in Albania you have the charm of Oriental architecture, the picturesque mosque, the minaret, the fort, and the serai, which you have not in Modem Greece, for war and change have deprived her of them ; you have that which is found not in Italy, a profusion every¬ where of the most magnificent foliage, recalling the greenness of our own island—clustering plane and chesnut, growth abundant of forest oak and beech, and dark tracts of pine. You have majestic cliff-girt shores, castle- crowned heights, and gloomy fortresses; Turkish palaces glittering with gilding and paint; mountain-passes such as you encounter in the snowy regions of Switzerland ; deep bays, and blue seas, with calm, bright isles resting on the horizon ; meadows and grassy knolls, convents and villages, olive-elothcd slopes, and snow-capped mountain peaks—and with all this Greece. c 2 a. INTEREST OF GREEK TRAVEL, a crowded variety of costume and pictorial incident, such as bewilders and delights an artist at each step he takes. , r But it is to the classical scholar in Greece that the greatest share of interest belongs. In the language and manners of every Greek sailor and peasant he will constantly recognize phrases and customs familiar to nm in the literature of ancient Hellas ; and he will revel in the contemplation of t he noble relics of Hellenic architecture, while the effect of classic al asso¬ ciation is but little spoiled by the admixture of post-Hellenic remains. In Italy the memory of the Roman empire is often swallowed up m the memory of the republics'of the middle ages; even the city of the Caesars is often half forgotten in the city of the Popes. But not so m Greece. We lose sight of the Venetians and the Turks, of Dandolo and Mahommed II., and behold only the ruins of Sparta and Athens, only the country of Leonidas and Pericles For Greece has no modem history of such a character as to obscure the vividness of her classical features. A modern history she does indeed possess, various and eventful, but it has been (as was truly observe ) of a destructive , not of a constructive character. It has left little behind it which can hide the immortal memorials of the greatness of Hellenic genius. At Rome the acquisition of a clear idea of the position and remains of the ancient city is, more or less, the result of study and labour ; whereas, at Athens, the idea flashes at once on the mind, clear as the air of Attica, and quick and bright as the thoughts of the Athenians of old. After a rapid walk of a few hours, every well-informed traveller may carry away in his mind a picture of the city of Pericles and Plato, which will never leave him till the day of his death. It is a striking fact that, so recently as Dr. Wordsworth’s visit in 1832, there was “scarcely any building at Athens in so perfect a state as the temple of Theseus.” In all parts of the country the traveller is, as it were, left alone with antiquity and Hellas tells her own ancient history with complete distinc¬ tiveness. “ In whatever district the stranger may be wandering—whether cruising in shade and sunshine among the scattered Cyclades, or tracing his difficult way among the rocks and along the watercourses of the Pelo¬ ponnesus, or looking up to where the Achelous comes down from the moun¬ tains of Acarnania, or riding across the Boeotian plain, with Parnassus behind him and Cithseron before him—he feels that he is reading over again all the old stories of his school and college days—all the old stories, but with new and most brilliant illuminations. He feels m the atmosphere, and sees in the coasts and in the plains, and the mountains, the character of the ancient Greeks, and the national contrasts of their various tribes. Attica is still what it ever was—a country where the rock is ever labouring to protrude itself from under the thin and scanty soil, like the bones under the skin of an old and emaciated man. No one can cross over from hollow Lacedaemon ’ to the sunny climate and rich plain of Messema, without sympathizing with the Spartans who fought so long for so rich a prize. No one can ride along the beach at Salamis, while the wind which threw the Persian ships into confusion is dashing the spray about lus horse s teet, without having before Ids eyes the image of that sea-fight where so great a struggle was condensed into the narrow strait between the island and the shore with Aristides and Themistocles fighting for the liberties of Greece, and Xerxes looking on from his golden throne. No one can look down from the peak of Pentelicus upon the crescent of pale level ground, which is the field of Marathon, without feeling that it is the very sanctuary where that battle ought to have been fought which decided that Greece was never to be a Persian satrapy .”—Quarterly Review. (I. MODE OF TRAVELLING. 3 The very mode oftrarelUnq will be felt by many to be an additional charm. Throughout Greece and European Turkey journeys are made only on horse¬ back “ This is not a recreation suited to all men, and is trying even to those who are vigorous and indifferent to luxuries and comforts; yet there is none of that languor and feverishness that so generally result from tra¬ velling on wheels, but in their stead invigorated health, braced nerves, and elevated spirits. You are in immediate contact with Yature. Every circum¬ stance of scenerv and climate becomes of interest and value, and the minutest incident of country or of local habits cannot escape observation. A burning sun may sometimes exhaust, or a summer-storm may drench you, but what can be more exlidarating than the sight of the lengthened troop of variegated and gay costumes dashing at full speed along—what more picturesque than to watch their career over upland or dale, or along the waving line of the landscape—bursting away on a dewy morn, or racmg ‘ home ’ on a rosy eve ? « . , “ You are constantly in the full enjoyment of the open air of a heavenly climate; its lightness passes to the spirits-its serenity sinks into the mind You are prepared to be satisfied with little, to support the bad without repining, to enjoy the good as a gam, and to be pleased with all things. You are fit for Work, and glad of rest ; you are, above all things, ready tor your food, which is always savoury when it can be got, and never unseason- kble when forthcoming. But here it wdl be seen that no small portion of the pleasures of Eastern travel arises from sheer hardship and privation, which increase so much our real enjoyments, by endowing us with a frame of mind and body at once to enjoy and to endure. Itt is also from such contingencies alone that those amongst us who have not to labour for then daily broad can obtain an insight into the real happiness enjoyed three times a-day by the whole mass of mankind who labour lor their bread and hunger for their meals.’ JJrquhart. It will not be amiss in this place to say something on the subject ot robbers, of whom most travellers in the East hear so much, but see so little. In Greece particularly, there are few instances on record ot foreigners bavin" been attacked when travelling with one of the regular Athenian couriers It is the interest of these men to ascertain if the roads are sale, or, as the modern Greek phrase is, clean (waffrpiKol 5pS/ui); to avoid dan¬ gerous localities altogether, or to procure from the authorities a sufficient escort, which is generally granted without difficulty. The fact is, that now- a-days in the Levant, a Frank (the generic name for the natives of western lands) runs very little risk from open violence. An Oriental travels with his whole fortune in his girdle ; for, as yet, he has no substitute for the cn- cular notes of English bankers; and his arms and dress are generally so costly, that he is worth shooting, even if he should happen to be ot the same way of thinking hi politics and religion as the gentleman who shoots him. Mr. Curzon has remarked, with great humour, that there is also an¬ other reason whv Franks are seldom molested in the East“ Every Arab or Albanian knows that, if a Frank has a gun in his haijd, there are two probabilities, amounting almost to certainties, with respect to that weapon —one, that it is loaded ; and the other that, if the trigger is pulled, there is a considerable chance of its going off. Yow, these are circumstances which apnlv in a much slighter degree to the magazine of small arms which he carries about his own person. But, beyond all this, when a Irank is shot there is such a disturbance made about it! Consuls write letters ; Pashas are stirred up ; guards, cliayasses, and tatar3 gallop Lice mad about the country, and fire pistols in the air, and liye at free quarters m the vii- b. ROUTES FROM ENGLAND TO GREECE. 4 lages ; the murderer is sought for everywhere, and he, or some one else, is hanged to please the consul; in addition to which the population are beaten with thick sticks ad libitum. All this is extremely disagreeable, and there¬ fore we are seldom shot at, the practice being too dearly paid for.” b. Routes from England to Greece. N.B.—The days of sailing, &c , given in the following lists, or elsewhere throughout these pages, are those fixed at the present time (March, 1853). But as changes are frequently made in the arrangements of the different steam-companies, reference should be made, before starting, to the Conti¬ nental Guide of Bradshaw, which is published monthly. Many travellers visit Greece on their return from the East, in which case they will probably first land at Syra, that great centre of the steam naviga¬ tion of the Levant, and from whence there is frequent communication with Athens, Salonica, Constantinople, Smyrna, Syria, and Egypt. The main routes from England to Greece direct are as follows :— I. By the Peninsular and Oriental Company's Steamers from England to Malta by Gibraltar. The steamers of this Company leave Southampton for Malta on the 4th, 20th, and 29th of every month, at 1 p.m. When these dates fall on a Sunday, the hour of departure is at 9 a.m. Fares to Malta—first-class, 20 1 .; second-class, 12?. A first-class passage out and home, within four months, 35?. ; second-class ditto, 21?. (For a description of Malta, see Handbook for Egypt.) II. Across France to Marseilles, and thence to Malta by the English or French Steamers. Another and more expeditions route than the above is to cross France to Marseilles. The railroads are finished from Boulogne to Chalons-sur-SaAne, whence river-steamers convey passengers by Lyons to Avignon, whence there is again a railroad to Marseilles. From this port there is very fre¬ quent communication with Malta in both French and English steamers. (See Bradshaw.) HI. From Malta to Greece by the English or French Steamers. Arrived at Malta by Bte. 1 or 2, the traveller has the choice of pro¬ ceeding onwards by (1.) Her Majesty’s mail steam-packets, which leave Malta, for Greece and the Ionian Isles, on the 12 th and 31st of every month, and call at Zante, Patras, Ceplialonia, and Corfu; returning from Corfu by the same route, after a stay there of two or three days. (2.) The French Government steamers, which leave Malta on the 5th, 15th, and 25th of every month, for Athens, Syra, Smyrna, and Constanti¬ nople 5 also, once a-month, by Rostand’s French steamers, or by English screw-steamers (likewise monthly), reaching Athens in GO hours. IV. By the Austrian Lloyd's Steamers from Trieste. The cheapest, quickest, and most agreeable route from England to the Ionian Islands and Greece is miquestionably that by railroad from Ostend to Trieste, through Cologne, Dresden, Prague, and Vienna ; and then pro¬ ceeding from Trieste to Athens, in the Austrian Lloyd’s steamers, by the Adriatic and Gulf of Corinth. The journey from London to Athens by this route can easily be accomplished in 10 days, and for about 20 ?. ( first - c . REQUISITES and hints before starting. 5 class fare , including all expenses ). Corfu is reached by the same mode of conveyance in 7 or 8 days, and for about 16/. lhc Loudon agency of the Austrian Lloyd’s Company is at 127, LeadenhaU Street, where every requi¬ site information may always be obtained. At present, the steamers leave Tr (l.) C -EVery Thursday , at 4 F.M., for Constantinople, touching at Corfu, Zante, Svra, Smyrna, &c. From Syra there is a branch line to Athens 2. Ererq alternate Monday, at 4 T.is., for Greece touching at Areona, Brindisi, Corfu, Cephalonia, Zante, Patras, Yostizza Lepanto, and so pro¬ ceeding up the Gulf of Corinth to Lutraki For the sliert journey of 6 miles across the istlimus the Company provides carnages • and at Calamaki, on the Gulf of Salamis, another steam-packet will be found to proceed on to At O. ^Arrivals from the Levant, Greece, and the Ionian Islands arc ad¬ mitted to free pratique at Trieste. . . . ,. . Tlie Austrian Lloyd’s steamers which leave Trieste for Abxandna throe , on the 10th and 27th of every month, generally call at Corfu both in going out and in returning. c. Requisites and Hints before starting ; Luggage ; Clothes ; Presents ; Letters of Introduction ; Money ; 1 assports, &c. In Greece and the East generally, even more than in other countries let the traveller bear in mind this important hint before starting he should never omit visiting any object of interest whenever it happens to be uitlnn his reach at the time, as he can never be certam what impediments may occur to prevent him from carrying his intentions into ellect at a subsc- qU WeSgly advise the future traveller in Greece not to encumber him¬ self with a canteen, nor to purchase in England other simdar requisites fo his joumevs in the interior of Eastern countries. lie “fini^y IkUct proceed in* the first instance to Athens, and there enter into arrangements with one of the regidar travelling servants, who provide all sucL n «*ssanc«. His luggage should be packed in two portmanteaus of moderate size, or m two stoSt leather bags of equal weight,-so as to balance easily on either side of the pack-saddle of his baggage-horse. If he be a sportsman lit will, of course, take his gun. A tent, though requisite m many parts of As.a, unnecessary and unusual in Greece. , , i • Protection from Vermin.— Greece and all parts of the East abound vermin of everv description, each annoying the weaned traveller, and some by their bite occasioning serious pain or illness. An apparatus for obviating this evil was invented bv Mr. Levinge, and is thus described by Sir Chailcs Fellows, who used it in travelling in Asia MinorThe whole apparatus may be compressed into a hat-case. A pair of calico sheets, nine feet long, sewed together at the bottom and on both side3 (2s o. 1), arc con ipue wi ^ muslin of the same form and size, sewed to them at their open en ) > and this muslin is drawn tightly together at the end of the tape. YV ithin this knot are three or four loose tapes, about eighteen inches ong, "i i nooses at their ends, through which, from within, a cane is threac ec so as to form a circle, extending the muslin as a canopy, which in this torm is suspended. These canes must be in three pieces, three feet long, each fitting into the other with a socket or ferrule. The entrance to the bed is by a neck from the calico (No. 3), with a string to draw it tightly together when you are within. It is desirable that the traveller should enter this bed as 6 C. REQUISITES AND HINTS BEFORE STARTING. lie would a shower-bath, and having his night-shirt with him. AVI 1 on the end formed of muslin is suspended, the bed forms an airy canopy, in which the occupant may stand up and dress in privacy, no one being able to see him from without, while he can observe all around. r lo prevent accidents from tearing the apparatus, I have found that the best mode of entering it was to keep the opening in the middle of the mattress, and, standing in it, draw the bag entrance over my head. ’ During the day the traveller may read and write within it free from the annoyance of flies ; and in the evening, by placing a lamp near the curtam, he may pursue his occupations undisturbed by gnats. It will even supply the place of a tent, as a protection from the dew, if a night be spent in the open ah'. The price of this apparatus is trifling. Messrs. Maynard and Harris, 126, Leadenhall Street, have prepared it under Mr. Levinge’s in¬ structions, and furnish it complete, of the best materials, for 11. 5s. The clothes of the traveller should be such as will stand hard and rough work. They must not be too light, even in summer; for a day of intense heat is often followed by a storm or a cold night. It is simply ridiculous in an English traveller to assume the Greek or any other Oriental dress, unless he is perfect master of the local languages and manners ; and even in that improbable case he will still find an English shooting-jacket and wide-awake the most respectable and respected travelling costume through¬ out the Levant. A really comfortable English saddle and bridle will be found a great luxury. _ . A large and stout cotton umbrella is required as a protection not only from the rain, but also from the sun. A white umbrella should be pur¬ chased at Corfu or Athens in hot weather. A green veil , and blue or neutral-tinted spectacles , are very useful as a safeguard against the glare of the sun. A pocket-telescope , a thermo¬ meter , drawing materials , measuring tape , and the like, are luxuries to be provided or not, according to the taste and pursuits of each individual tourist. Travellers starting from Corfu for a tour in Albania, lioyvever short, or visiting the interior of Greece, without engaging the services of one of the Athenian couriers, should pay strict attention to the following sensible recommendations of Mr. Lear “ Previously to starting, a certain supply of cooking utensils, tin plates, knives and forks, a basin, &c. must absolutely be pm-chased, the stronger and plainer the better ; for you go into lands where pots and pans are unknown, and all culinary processes are to be per¬ formed in strange localities, innocent of artificial means. A light mattress, C. REQUISITES AND HINTS BEFORE STARTING. 7 some sheets amt blankets, and a good supply of capotes and plaids should not be neglected; two or three books; some nee, curry-powder, and eavenne • a world of drawing materials—if you be a hard sketeher; as little dress a« possible, though von must have two sets of outer clothing one for vi«ding Consuls, Pashas, and other dignitanes, the other for rough every¬ day work ; some quinine made into pills (rather leave all behind than tiiw) , a Buyourdi, or general order of introduction to governor^ or vour Tesl-ere or provincial passport for yourself and guide. AH thc.e are ‘absolutely indispensable, and beyond these, the less you augment your im¬ pedimenta bv luxuries the bet ter ; though a long strap, with a pair of ordinary stirrups to throw over the Turkish saddles, may be recommended to save you™the' cramp, caused bv the awkward shovel-stirrups of the country. Arms and ammunition, fine raiment, presents for natives, are all ^mens simplicity should be your aim. M hen all these things, so genencally term ro U bv the Italians, are in order, stow them into two Brobdignagian . addle bags, united bv a cord (if you can get leather bags so muchit hebetter;; if not goats’ hair sacks) ; and bv these hanging on each side of the baggage horsed saddle, no trouble will ever be given from seceding bits of luggage *™ingat unexpected intervals. Until you adopt this plan the simplest of any) vou will lose much time daily by the constant necessity of putting i«t"o lon^ customary in Gm.ee TuAcy to exch„» presents as fonnerlv ; and the ordinary traveller cannot encumber himself with unnecessary luggage. Those, however, who remain some tune m the Levant or who sail in their own yachts, will often wish to leave some token of remembrance with officials, or others from whom they may ha>e received assistance or hospitality. For this purpose the best articles to provide are a few pairs of English pistols, knives, pocket-telescopes, tots for children, ‘and ornaments for ladies. Prints of the Queen, the Mmisters &c. are very acceptable to the British Consular Agents, who are gcnerany nat es Ne periodicals, caricatures, &c. from London are most prized by English resi ^^Letterg^of ^Introduction. —These should be procured for as many as pos¬ sible of the following functionaries the Lord High Commissioner ot t Ionian Islands; some of the civilians, and military and naval officers sta¬ tioned there ; the British Minister and Consul at Athena; tlm Ambassador and Consul-General at Constantinople; and the Consuls at the chi whic-h it is intended to visit, such a-Patras, Syra, Saknnca, Prci csa, «*• Should the traveUer be unprovided with letters, he will do weh nevert - less, to call on his countrymen holding official situations in Greece and Turkey. From them he will obtain full information as to the actual state of the countries in which they reside ; and how far travelling is safe and practicable at any particular moment. Any advice so given should never be n6 St-The circular notes of Messrs. Courts Herries, and other Lon¬ don bankers (the best and most convenient mode of taking money a iron ), are easily negotiated at Corfu, Cephalonia, Zante, Patras, Athens, Constan¬ tinople, &c. If the tour is to be extended into the intenor of Asia, it would be advisable to be also provided with a letter of credit for Smyrna. For n distant towns, and where the communication is more uncertain, the banker runs a risk, and sometimes will object to give money on a sing e cure note, since, if the ship by which he sends it to England sboidd be lost he loses all. Bills on London, numbered 1, 2, 3, are preferred, each being sent bv a different vessel. 8 C. REQUISITES AND HINTS' BEFORE STARTING. One of the many advantages resulting from the employment of a regular Athenian courier is this : it precludes the necessity of carrying money into the interior of the country. The traveller pays Ills servant in one sum at the end of the whole journey, or on his arrival at a large town where there is a bank. The comfort of such an arrangement is obvious : cantabit vacuus coram latrone viator. Those who do not choose to avail themselves of it should at least endeavour to procure letters on Consular Agents, or Mer¬ chants, from district to district, so as to carry as little coin as possible with them. The bag of dollars and smaller change must be carefully watched by day, and used as a pillow by night. (For the money of the Ionian Islands, Greece , and Turlcey , see Special Introductions to Sections I., II., and IV., respectively.) Passports. —How that the Foreign Office passports can be had for 7s. Gd., by simply applying in Downing-street with a letter of recommendation from a banker, no British subject should travel with any other credentials, either in the Levant or elsewhere. The traveller starting from England for Greece, across the Continent, should have his passport vise in London by the Minis¬ ters of those States through which his route lies ; but the visa of the Greek authorities themselves is not necessary until he is setting out on a tour in the interior of the country. He must then apply to the police or local officials at Athens, or some other chief town of a district, for a pass, which is generally necessary to enable him to hire boats, &c., and which is some¬ times, though not often, required to be shown at the stations of the gensdarmes (xapofivAaices), now established in all directions. In 1844 the Turkish Government issued a notice that no traveller will be allowed to enter the Turkish territory without a passport, vise by one of the Consuls or other public functionaries of bis own nation, and by some Ambassador or Consul of the Sultan. This regulation is not always adhered to ; but trouble may arise from the neglect of it. If the traveller, therefore, wishes to enter the Ottoman dominions from the Ionian Islands, or from Greece, let him procure the visa of the British authorities and of the Otto¬ man Consul at Corfu or Athens. On his arrival at the first large town which is the residence of a Governor (Ioannina, for instance), he must pro¬ vide himself with regular Turkish passports. These are of three classes— the Firman, the Buyourdi, and the Teskerc. The first can only be granted by the Sultan, or by a Pasha of high rank. It is procured at Constantinople, by the aid of the Embassy or Consulate. But a Buyourdi and Teslcere will generally answer the purpose required, and can be granted by all Pashas and G overnors of provinces. The Teslcere is the provincial passport for the traveller and his attendants ; and the Buyourdi is a general order of recom¬ mendation to officials of every class. Fortified with these documents, the traveller has a right to require lodgings at the houses of the Christians in every town and village of Turkey, and to be furnished by the Menzil , or Government Post, with horses at the same price as is paid by the Imperial couriers. The traveller, provided with the proper Turkish credentials, will rarely find it necessary to use his English passport; it will only be in case of any difficulty, or of bis being forced to apply to the authorities for redress, that he will find occasion to present it. It is usual, however, when he pays his respects to a Pasha, for the dragoman (interpreter) to show it to his Excel¬ lency or to his secretary; and it is sometimes convenient, in order to enable the British Consuls themselves to be certain of the traveller’s identity. When a Turkish passport is procured, the traveller should endeavour, in order to preclude the possibility of future trouble or annoyance, to have his own name and title fully and distinctly set forth in it, as also the names of d. CLIMATE AND SEASONS FOR TRAVELLING. 9 the districts which he intends to visit, the number of his attendants, and of the horses which he requires ; with any other directions which he may con¬ sider useful. It will be satisfactory, moreover, to obtain, if possible, a translation of the Turkish passports. In European Turkey they are some¬ times written both in Turkish and Greek.* (For further information on this head, see Special Introduction to Section IV.) d. Climate and Seasons for Travelling. Each separate country of the East should, if possible, be visited at the season of the year best suited for travelling in it, as the pleasure of the journey is thereby vastly increased ; and it is, moreover, essential in point of health that this plan should be pursued. The following distribution of time is recommended for the grand tour of the Levant. January and February are agreeable months to spend at Corfu and Athens. At that season it is usually too cold and stormy, and the rivers are too much swollen, to render a journey in the interior of Greece con¬ venient, or, in some parts, even practicable. March, April, and May can he devoted to the inland districts of Greece and to Albania, Thessaly, and Macedonia. This period, though short, will enable an energetic traveller to visit the most interesting localities, and to obtain a general idea of the whole country. June and the early part of July may be occupied with the Islands of the Aegean Sea, the Seven Churches of Asia, and the Plain of Troy. During the rest of July and August the traveller should remain quietly at Constantinople, and in the villages of the Bosphorus, which, at that season, are cooler than any other situation in the Mediterranean. The summer is seldom oppressively hot there. A tour of Syria and the Holy Land may be accomplished in the three succeeding months. Egypt should be visited in winter, and the ascent of the Nile commenced, if possible, in November. The tom’ of the southern portion of Asia Minor should be made early in the spring, advancing northward and inland as the weather becomes warmer. Travellers who leave England early in aufumn would do well to reverse a portion of the above routes; beginning with Malta and Egypt; then pro¬ ceeding across the desert to the Holy Land and Syria, and so reaching Greece by the steamers from Beyrout to Syra and Athens, before the spring is far advanced. In no country of the same extent is so great a variety of climate to be found as in Greece. Sir W. Gell, travelling in the month of March, says that he left Xalamata, on the shore of Messenia, in a summer of its own, Sparta in spring, and found winter at Tripolitza, on the upland plain of Arcadia. In September, when the heat at Argos is still intense, 'winter will almost have set in on the neighbouring mountains of the Peloponnesus. The advantage of this variety of climate is, that journeys in Greece may be, if necessary, performed at all seasons. But spring and autumn—and par¬ ticularly the former—should he selected by travellers who have liberty of choice. By those who are acquainted only with the hazy atmosphere of the north, the bright sun and cloudless skies which then gild this favoured land can scarcely be imagined. The duration of winter is short, but while it lasts the c-old is severely felt, in consequence, partly, of the bad construe- * A specimen is given in “ Mount Athos, Thessaly, and Epirus,” p. 199 . B 3 10 e. MAXIMS AND RULES FOR PRESERVATION OF HEALTH. tion of the houses. It may be said to end with February, when the traveller may commence his excursions in the lowland districts, advancing towards the mountainous regions as the heat increases. April and May are decidedly the best months, as being free from the burning heats of summer, and also, in a great measure, from liability to sudden and violent rains, which is the great objection to the winter, and also partially to March, October, and November, when the weather, though usually delicious, is uncertain. On the whole, therefore, let the traveller in Greece choose the period from the middle of March to the middle of June, when the deep blue of the sky and the sea, the genial but not sultry heat, the silvery asphodels glittering in the valleys, the flowering myrtles waving on mountain and shore ; when the fragrance of the orange-groves, and the voice of the nightingale and turtle (Canticles ii. 12)—when, in short, all above and around him betoken the spring-time of the East. Those only who have “ dwelt beneath the azure mom” of Hellas (Theocritus xvi. 5) can conceive the effect of her lucid atmosphere on the spirits in this delightful season, or realize the description of the Athenians of old by one of their own poets as “ ever lightly tripping through an ether of surpassing brightness” (Eurip. Med. 825). Let the traveller in Greece, we repeat, go forth on his way rejoicing—as a Greek has sung (Aristoph., Clouds, 1008). ifpos eV a(>a xaipcur oirorav TrXaTavos irreK^a ^idvpl^rj. “ All in the gladsome spring, when Plane to Elm doth whisper.” e. Maxims and Eules for the Preservation of Health ; Malaria ; Quarantine. The hottest months in Greece are July, August, and part of September. It is in August and September chiefly that danger is to be apprehended from sickness. Fevers are then prevalent in all parts, especially in the marshy districts and in the vicinity of lakes ; and many natives, as well as foreigners, fall a sacrifice to them. In order to avoid such dangers the following brief directions should be strictly observed: not to sleep in the open ah’, or with open windows during those months ; never to drink cold water when heated, nor to be exposed to the burning sun in the middle of the day; not to indulge in eating or drinking too freely ; raw vegetables, such as cucumbers, salads, and most fruits, ought to be eschewed. The abundance of fruit is a great temptation to foreigners, but nothing is more pernicious, or more likely to lead to fatal consequences. Indulgence in fruit, and drinking too freely of the country wines, were the chief causes of the mortality among the Bavarians on their first arrival in Greece. Whatever may be their plans, and to whatever part of the East they may bend their steps, travellers should steadily keep in view the necessity of caution in avoiding all the know’ll causes of sickness in countries where medical aid cannot always be procured in time. The appendix to the Reports of the Parliamentary Committee on the Western Coast of Africa contains much valuable information relative to the causes of the unhealthiness which prevails in tropical climates; and the following maxims for European travellers and residents in Africa, given in Dr, Madden’s evidence before the committee, are in many respects applicable to other countries in hot latitudes and in unhealthy seasons :— “ 1. That in hot climates we cannot eat and drink, or endure fatigue, as we have been accustomed to do at home. “ 2. That the tranquillity of mind in those countries directly influences the health and strength of the strangers or settlers hi them, and that the e. MAXIMS AND RULES FOR PRESERVATION OF HEALTH. 11 mental faculties and digestive functions, as tliis influence is exerted, act and re-act on each other. “ 3. That so far as regimen, exercise, and the regulation of time for meals and business, the prevailing habits of the natives of the countries we visit are not to be contemned. “ 4. That in all hot countries less food is requisite to support nature than in cold ones. “ 5. That in travelling, the * feverishness ’ of the system, or its increased nervous irritability, so far debilitates the digestive organs, or impairs their action, that the quantity of food requires to be diminished, and the interval between meals to be regulated so as to avoid the sense of exhaustion that arises from long fasting. “ 6. That the traveller who drinks wine or malt liquor in moderation does well, and he who cannot do so in moderation would do still better to abstam from both. “ 7. That the languor occasioned in those climates makes the stimulus of wine or spirits more desirable than they can prove beneficial, being only- temporary excitants, while the depressing influence of the climate is of a permanent nature. “ 8. That what is temperance in a cold climate would amount to an im¬ moderate indulgence in a hot one. “ 9. That with respect to regimen in those countries, no general rules can be invariably applied, because there are no general laws that regulate the effects of food or physic on different constitutions, in different degrees of sanity or sickness. “ 10. That many things that arc wholesome in one country are deleterious in another. “ 11. That there is no rule in life with regard to regimen of such general application as that of Seneca—namely, ‘that all things are wholesome which are not only agreeable to us to-day, but will be convenient for us to-morrow.’ “ 12. That cleanliness, cheerfulness, regularity in living, and avoidance of exposure to heat and wet, and especially to night air, constitute the chief means of preserving health in hot countides. “ 13. That fear, fatigue, and repletion are the ordinary predisposing causes which leave us subject to the influence of endemic and contagious maladies in hot countries. “ 14. That in tropical climates exuberant vegetation is productive of miasma, prejudicial to health ; and as a general ride in selecting a locality for a settlement or any long-continued residence, that whatever influence is favourable to vegetable vigour is unfavourable to animal life. “ 15. That hypochondriasm and disquietude on the score of health, the frequent recourse to medicine for slight indispositions, and the neglect of timely precautions and early and active remedies in grave ones, are equally prejudicial to strangers in these countries. “ 16. That there is no dependence to be placed in the efficacy of medi¬ cine, or the observance of regimen, however strictly enforced, without a well-grounded confidence in the goodness of Providence, and the sufficiency of its power for our protection, in all places, and in all perils, however imminent they may be. “ Rules for the Preservation of Health in Hot Countries. “ 1. To rise at 5 o’clock, and to retire to rest at 10. “ 2. To breakfast at 8 o’clock, to dine at 3, to sup at 8. 12 e. MAXIMS AND RULES FOR PRESERVATION OF HEALTH. “ 3. To repose, when travelling, from 11 o’clock a.m. to 3 r.M. “ 4. To allow not the time of meals to be broken in upon by visitors, or to be changed or retarded, on pretext of business. “ 5. To dine out of one’s own house as seldom as possible. “ 6. To refrain from exercising immediately after eating. “ 7. To repose from considerable fatigue always before meals. “ 8. To use wine rather as a cordial than a beverage to allay thirst, and neither wine nor spirituous liquors ever before dinner. “ 9. To avoid the use of sour and acid wines at dinner, whether with water or without; and where wine is required, a couple of glasses of sound sherry or Madeira at the most after dinner. “ 10. To avoid the pernicious custom in hot countries of taking copious beverages at all hours of the day, whether of lemonade, sangaree, or malt liquor. “ 11. To eat the simplest food, to avoid a variety of dishes, to abstain altogether from confectionary, and at first from all kinds of fruit to which we have not been accustomed; melons, apricots, and at all times from sour fruits of every description. “ 12. To use the tepid or warm baths occasionally, and, as a general rule, the cold bath never, on the coast of Africa; not because, under some cir¬ cumstances, it might not be salutary in itself, but because it in all cases de-> mands precautions which strangers can seldom take. To all, except the sound, the acclimated, those perfectly free from all visceral obstructions, it is injurious. More fatal consequences to travellers have come to my know¬ ledge from cold bathing in hot countries than had arisen from any other cause. “ 13. To wear flannel next the skin in all seasons ; and never while per¬ spiring or exposed to the breeze remove any part of one’s clothing for the sake of coolness. “ 14. To be careful at night not to sit in the open air when the dew is falling. “ 15. Never to sleep with the windows of one’s bed-room open. “ 16. To give up all idea of pursuing sporting amusements in this country; the exposure to wet and solar heat in going through jungles and marshy grounds in quest of game having proved fatal to hundreds of Europeans. “ 17. To refrain from all violent exercises and recreations requiring bodily exertion. “ 18, Never to travel between an horn' after sunset and one before sunrise. “ 19. Never to sit down in wet clothes, or to sliift wet clothes without the use of the flesh-brush. “ 20. To avoid sleeping on a ground-floor, or dwelling in a. house con¬ tiguous to the sea-beach, or to w r et and marshy grounds. “ 21. To take daily out-door exercise, either on horseback or on foot, either from 5 to J-past 7 a.m., or i-past 5 to J-past 7 p.m. “ 22. To avoid acidulated drinks, acid fruits, and sour wines. “ 23. To make choice of large, lofty, and well-ventilated rooms, especially for bed-chambers, in all hot countries. “ 24. To avoid sitting in draughts. “ 25. To pester one’s self with anticipated evils or possible occurrences that may be attended with difficulties as little as one can, but to follow one’s course on the principle of first ascertaining that one is right, and then pf pursuing one’s route straight forward. e . maxims and rules for preservation of health. Id « 26. Darin" meal-time to keep the mind disengaged from business, and seldom to devote the time of sleep to study or to society. “ 27. To look danger in the face, and in sickness to be determined (Deo juvante) to resist its pressure, and to recover from it. “ 28. To keep moving on one’s journey, and once having set out, as seldom as possible to loiter on the way.” Malaria.—In Dr. Watson’s Lectures on the Principles and Practice of Physic, Nos. 40, 41, 42, will be found an excellent account of ague, or intermittent fever, and of the malaria which produces it. That^ subtle poison is tliickly distributed over the fairest regions of the world ; blighting human health,'and shortening human life, more perhaps than any other single cause whatever. Known only by its noxious effects, this unseen and treacherous enemy of our race has yet been tracked to its haunts, and de¬ tected in some of'its habits. It is useful, therefore, for travellers and resi¬ dents in the East to learn how the malaria may sometimes be shunned, sometimes averted, and how its effects on the human body may be suecess- fullv combated. Swampy and confined situations, particularly where there is a’quantity of vegetation in decay, are more likely than any other localities to produce malaria. A knowledge of this fact, combined with gicatei security from robbers, caused so many of the villages in the south of Eiu ope to be built high above the plains. * Over-exertion, fatigue, and anything bringing on debility, are calculated to assist the influence of malaria.. We have° already seen that it is more dangerous by night than by day, and in autumn than at any other season. Bishop Heber mentions that in some parts of India the noxious vapour making its appearance in the evening is called by the natives essence of owl; and Horace long ago has sung, “ Frustra per autu.mr.os nocentem Corporibus metuemus austrum.” Quinine, as is well known, is the grand specific : the doses to be taken vary according to the disease and the patient. No Eastern traveller should be without "a small bottle of quinine pills, and a few simple directions for their use. Quarantine .—Detention in a Lazzarctto has been defined “ imprison¬ ment, with the chance of catching the plagueand its length and fre¬ quency formed, until within the last few years, a serious drawback to the pleasures of an Eastern tour. Every former traveller in the Levant will recall with horror the purgatory of purification which was deemed necessary before he was re-admitted to the Paradise of civilized life :— “ ]>onec longa dies, perfecto temporis orbe, Concretam exemit labem, purumque reliquit.” The duration of quarantine sometimes amounted of old to the full proba¬ tion of 40 days, from wliich the term is derived ; and it rarely was less than 10 days, even when the vessel arrived with a clean bill of health —i. e. when no plague or other contagious disorder existed in the place of departure. Be cent alterations, in accordance with more enlightened views of the doc- trine of contagion, have effected a complete revolution in this respect; and travellers are not now exposed to a tenth part of the vexations wliich for- merly perplexed them. Indeed, almost in every port the quarantine has been reduced to an observation , as it is called, of 24 hours; and in most cases is practically abolished, as steamers, ships of war, and private yachts get credit for the number of days they have been on their passage, on the affirmation of the commander that he has had no communication with any ship at sea. The quarantine rules are, however, liable to constant flue- 14 f TRAVELLING SERVANTS, ROADS, HIRE OF HORSES, ETf. tuations, as they are regulated chiefly by the state of health in Turkey, or in whatever country the vessel has last communicated. Whenever plague, smallpox, or cholera rages in Turkey, Greece, &c., an additional quarantine from thence is immediately enforced at the ports of the Mediterranean States. If the traveller, therefore, should have the misfortune to sail in a vessel with a foul bill of health , it will be useful for him to remember that the best Lazzarettos in the Levant are those of Syra, the Pmeus, Corfu, and Malta; the last being by far the least inconvenient and best regu¬ lated purgatory of them all. Here the rooms are large, and to each set a kitchen is attached ; good dinners can be furnished from a neighbouring hotel, at a moderate price. In all lazzarettos each detenu is placed under the care of a guardiano , or health-officer, whose duty it is never to lose sight of him, unless when in liis room, and to prevent him from touching any of his fellow-prisoners. Should he come in contact with any one more recently arrived than himself, he must remain in quarantine until the latter obtains 'pratique. Fees, more or less considerable, are everywhere exacted before permission of egress is granted. Violations of quarantine laws were once universally treated as capital crimes; and they are still everywhere severely punished. As Quarantine possesses an Italian phraseology of her own, which is puz¬ zling to the uninitiated, it may be useful to specify that persons and things under her power are called “contumaci” and “sporchi” (literally contuma¬ cious and fou /), until they obtain “ pratica ” (Gallic e, pratique), or permis¬ sion of free communication. In the days of long quarantines, the term of detention could be much shortened by the traveller’s going through what was called spoglio , i. e. taking a bath, and leaving every article of dress, &c., in the lazzaretto, and clothing himself afresh in garments purchased or hired for the occasion from the neighbouring town. This process was both agreeable and convenient, for, in a quarantine of fourteen days, it enabled the traveller to get pratique seven days before his effects, which were fumi¬ gated by the guardiano , and delivered to their owner at the expiration of his original term. (The whole quarantine question is sensibly discussed in the Edinburgh Review , Ko. 196, for October, 1852.) /. Travelling Servants ; Roads ; Hire of Horses, Arc. It is very difficult to find in England a servant capable of acting as inter¬ preter in Greece and the East generally, though a few such are to be had: Misseri, who now keeps the Hotel d’Angleterre at Constantinople, was long well known in this capacity, and is celebrated by the author of Eothen. Common English servants are, in general, rather incumbrances than other¬ wise, as they are usually but little disposed to adapt themselves to strange customs, have no facility in acquiring foreign languages, and are more annoyed by hardships and rough living than their masters. Indeed, it is not only troublesome and expensive, but entirely useless in a journey through Greece, to take any attendants in addition to the travelling ser¬ vants of the country. Those who have them in their suite would do well to leave them at Corfu or Athens until their return. As we have already seen, the mode of travelling in the interior of Greece and of European Turkey is on horseback, the distances being calculated by an hour’s march of a caravan, according to the custom established among all Eastern nations. One horn’ is, on an average, equivalent to about 3 English miles ; though, in level parts of the country, and with good horses, the traveller may ride much faster. With the same horses, the usual rate f travelling servants, roads, hire of horses, etc. 15 of progress does not exceed from 20 to 25 miles a-dny; though, with the menzil, or post-horses of Turkey, 60 miles a-dny may be easily accomplished, bv changing at stages varying from 10 to 20 miles from each o her In ail probability, many years will elapse before any other mode of travelling is generally practicable in Greece; though excellent carnage-roads hare been made in all the Ionian Islands since they came under the British pro¬ tectorate. Orders and plans, it is true, hare been frequently issued by the Greek Government for the formation of roads m various directions, but, in consequence of the scantiness of the population, and the profligate expendi¬ ture of the public revenue, little has been hitherto effected ; and, as the labourer in Greece gains more by the cultivation of Ins lands than the wages offered by Government, it would be difficult to induce bun to quit lus fields and commence road-making. From the peculiarities of the country in this respect, a traveller mav always go from one place to another in any direc¬ tion he mav fancy ; so that, with the exception of the great lines from town to town, it*is almost useless to trace out routes very minutely. Indeed such a task would be encUess, and, from the local changes which are constantly occurring, the only valuable information respecting lodging, &c., in the country villages must be obtained on the spot. , Tlie onlv Roads practicable for carriages in the whole country are that from the Pineus to Athens, that from Athens to Thebes—passing through Eleusis and a gorge of Mount Cithn?ron, that from Eleusis to Me-ara, that from Argos to Nauplia, and a few others for a short distance round Athens. A new road is traced out from Argos to Tripolitza, and another from Thebes to L hadea ; but the traveller had better ascertain their actual con¬ dition'before he ventures on either in a carriage. The road across the Isthmus of Corinth was made by the Austrian Lloyd s Company for the transit of their passengers. Many other roads, it is true, are talked and written of, but they are not as vet even surveyed, and carnages are unknown except at Athens and Nauplia. The old road from Nauplia to Tripolitza is no longer practicable for carriages, having fallen into disrepair The car¬ riage-road from Athens to the foot of Pentelicua was constructed for the transport of marble from the quarries. The paved causeways in various parts of Greece were the work of the Venetians or Turks. Horses are found in abundance in all large towns. They should be engaged to go from one town to another, in order to avoid delay and the uncertainty of meeting with them in the villages. They in general perform the ioumevs easily, and are very sure-footed. The hire of the horses may be regulated at so much per day, or for the journey from one town to an¬ other The first is the best plan to be adopted by those who wish tho¬ roughly to explore the country. The latter is to be preferred for those who are obhged to reach a given place at a certain time. , . The price for horse-hire varies according to the demand for them, or their scarcity, from 4 drachmas (2s. 8 d.) per day to 5 drachmas (3s. 6d.), which is the usual price in travelling, though more is generally demanded. At Athens, however, the usual price for a horse per day for excursions in the vicinity is 6 drachmas (4 s. 4 d.). It is in general not necessary to pay more than half-price for the horses on days when the traveller is stationary, as well aa for their journey home ; for it must be observed that the number o days will be reckoned that they will require to return from the place where thev are dismissed to that from whence they were taken. The price tor mules is about the same as that for horses. It is an error to suppose that thev are more sure-footed in mountainous districts than horses. In crossing a river on a warm day, a traveller should always be on his guard against tho 16 f. TRAVELLING SERVANTS, ROADS, HIRE OF HORSES, ETC. trick that mules have of lying down in the middle of the water, so suddenly, as to give him no time to save himself from being drenched. The fee ding of the horses is provided for by the proprietor, who sends a sufficient number of attendants to take care of them. These men will be found useful, not only as guides, but in procuring lodgings in private houses in the villages where the traveller halts. It is usual to make them some present at the end of their engagement. A written agreement with the proprietors of the horses is unnecessary in general, though it may be per¬ haps the most prudent course to adopt. To proceed with comfort on his journey, the traveller should have an English saddle , as the saddles of the country, whether in the Turkish fashion or made in imitation of the English ones, will be found uncomfort¬ able. He should also be provided with a saddle-cloth an inch or two in thickness, in order, if possible, to save the horse’s back from being galled. The Greek peasant in general objects to the use of the English saddle, the pressure of which, from the wretched condition of the horses, is almost sure to injure their backs. In order to obviate this difficulty, two large pieces of cloth should be sewn together and stuffed with a quantity of curled hair, wool, or cotton, whichever can be most easily procured. When this is done with care, the pressure will be removed, and the Greek will cease to offer any objection to the English saddle. The necessary preparations for travelling in Greece have been mentioned already (§ c). Persons well provided with all the requisites may commence their tom- from any point; but they will find the horses indifferent every¬ where except at Athens; and often, as at harvest-time, they will experience difficulty in procuring any at all. We cannot repeat too often the advice that the traveller should make Athens his head-quarters, and engage one of the regular travelling servants, such as Yard Adamopulos and Elia Poly- chronopulos, so long established there. These men can supply canteen, beds, linen, anti-vermin nets, English saddles, and, in general, everything requisite for making a tour comfortable, as well as good horses, which are perhaps more important than all the rest. The arrangement which has been found most satisfactory is that of agreeing with one of these travelling servants for a fixed price, which is to include every possible expense, at a certain sum per day for each person, after the manner of the Italian vettu- rini. The price varies according to the number of persons, the length of the journey, the number of articles supplied, and whether porter or foreign wines are required. A party of not less than three persons may be supplied with canteen, &c. &c., provisions, and, in fact, with every requisite, including horses and the services of the travelling servant and horseboys, for about 30 drachmas per day each, or about 11. per head, if the party consist of 2 or 3 persons, and 26s. for one person, if alone. This sort of arrangement has generally proved the most agreeable and advantageous. Both the couriers above mentioned have their establish¬ ments complete; others now undertake the same arrangements ; and, under the head of Athens (Rte. 2), are given the names of a few of the best- provided and most trustworthy. Travellers should leave the whole arrange¬ ment of their journey to them, merely mentioning the day and hour when they wish to start, and the places they intend to visit; they have notliing to pay, and need have no bargaining or disputing during the whole tour, as the original agreement literally includes every possible expense, except the occasional hire of boats and carriages. Travellers who employ these men must not expect much antiquarian knowledge from them, but must trust to books for all except the sites and modern names of the most inter- 17 g. SHOOTING, FIRE-ARMS, ETC. esting classical localities. Their chief merit is, that they enable a stranger to travel with a degree of ease and comfort which it would scarcely be pos¬ sible to obtain by any other means. The wages of a traveller’s servant, or valet-de-place, are 6 drachmas a-day, whether travelling or stationary ; and half-price is paid for both man and horses for their return to Athens from any place at which the traveller may leave them. The arrangement, however, of one charge to cover every¬ thing, if made with a really good servant, is the cheapest and most agree¬ able ; and for this reason the traveller should endeavour to secure one of the b'est at Athens, even at some temporary inconvenience. As a general rule, he should bear in mind that the unavoidable discomforts of travelling in Greece are so great, that it is desirable to have as few unnecessary ones as possible. It will, therefore, be his best plan to go straight to Athens before making a start, and there look about for a travelling servant, such as we have described above, who can ensure him a certain amount of comforts during his tour. It is also to be remembered that, in a country where there are neither roads nor inns to make one route preferable to another, travellers should make themselves acquainted from books with the places which most interest them, and be directed mainly by this consideration in the line they take. Nest to Greek, Italian will be found the most generally useful language throughout the Levant. Trench, however, is now more spoken in society at Athens. In the interior of Greece both Trench and Italian are totally unknown; hence, unless the traveller is perfect master of modern Greek (and, in Albania, of Albanian also), it is indispensable to take an inter¬ preter, even on the shortest excursion. No one shoidd ever insist on proceeding on his journey in mountainous districts in opposition to the warning of his guide. Many a traveller has been caught in storms, unable to find shelter, and exposed to much diffi¬ culty and even danger, from obstinately persisting to proceed when warned by his guide to desist. No scholar in Greece shoidd be without Colonel Leake’s works. There was no good map till the survey of the Trench Scientific Commission (1832). Aldenhofen’s map, published in 1838, is, in a great measure, based upon this survey, as regards the Peloponnesus and part of Attica, to which alone the survey extended. It is on a large scale, with the names in Greek and Trench. Nast, a G-erman bookseller at Athens, has since published a small map, which is tolerably accurate, and convenient for travelling. The best atlas of Ancient Greece is that of Xiepert (Berlin, 1851), a splendid but not portable work : and those published by Kiepert are also the best maps of Modem Greece and of the Turkish Empire. g. Shooting: Fire-arms: Animal and Vegetable Productions, &c. There are several good seasons for shooting in Greece. In April and May the turtles and quads arrive in their annual migration northward from Africa, returning southward at the close of summer. In some of the islands and on parts of the coast, quads may be killed in vast numbers at these seasons. In Laconia, especiady, they are salted by the inhabitants for winter consumption. In September and October, red-legged partridges afford excedent sport in all parts of the Levant, and particularly in some of the islands of the iEgean Sea. In November, December, January, and Tebruary, there is an abundance of woodcocks and wild-fowl of all kinds, from pelicans to jacksnipes. Pheasants are to be found in iEtolia near 18 (J. SHOOTING, FIRE-ARMS, ETC. Mesolonghi, in Macedonia, near Saloniea, and perhaps elsewhere; large flocks of bustards are sometimes seen in Boeotia. Indeed, one of the many attractions of a journey in Greece is the variety of birds unknown or rarely seen in England, but which constantly attract observation there. In the interior, the horizon is rarely without eagles, vultures, or other large birds of prey, while rollers spread their brilliant wings to the sun by the side of the traveller’s path; gay hoopoes stmt along before his horse, opening and shutting their fan-like crests; and now and then a graceful snow-white egret stalks slowly by in searchful meditation. In the Turkish provinces, storks annually resort to breed, in all the towns and villages; but of late years they have generally disappeared from the new kingdom of Greece, so much so that the Ottomans entertain a superstition that these birds follow the declining fortunes of Islam. The truth is, that the Christians often kill or annoy them; whereas the Moslems, though utterly reckless of the life of man, are very tender-hearted towards all other animals. (See Mount Alhos, &c., p. ] 47.) Besides “ such small deer” as we have just enumerated, the wolf, jackal, lynx, fox, wild-boar, wild-goat, red deer, roe, &c. inhabit all the wilder and more inaccessible parts of Greece and Turkey ; and bears are still sometimes met with on the higher mountain-ranges. Hares are numerous both on the mainland and in the islands. Seals, porpoises, and dolphins frequent the coasts. So many of the Greek rivers are merely mountain torrents, liable to be dried up at certain seasons, that there is not much inland fish¬ ing ; but large and delicate eels are still found in the Copaic lake; and mullet, tunny, and various other fish, abound in the Greek seas : leeches are plentiful in many places, and form an article of export. Tortoises abound everywhere; poisonous vipers and other serpents infest certain localities. The insect tribes of Greece include several Asiatic and African, as well as European species. The vegetable products are, for the most part, similar to those of Southern Italy. The country may, in this respect, be considered as divided into 4 distinct zones or regions, according to its elevation. The first zone, reaching to 1500 feet above the sea-level, produces vines, figs, olives, dates, oranges, and other tropical fruit, as well as cotton, indigo, tobacco, &c.; and abounds besides in evergreens, as the cypress, bay, myrtle, arbutus, oleander, and a multitude of aromatic herbs and plants. The second zone extends from 1500 to 3500 feet perpendicular, and is the region of oak, eliesnut, and other English forest-trees. The third zone reaches the height of 5500 feet, and is the region of beech and pine. The fourth, or Alpine zone, including all the surface above 5500 feet in height, yields only a few wild plants. In Walpole’s Memoirs of Turkey will be found a very complete account of Greek plants by Dr. Sibthorp, author of the Flora Graica. Acamania, Elis, Messenia, and the western parts of Greece generally, are the most richly wooded : the eastern provinces and the JEgean Islands, except Euboea, are mostly bare. So many Englishmen now visit Greece and the Ionian Isles every winter for the purpose of shooting, that it is necessary to point out some of the best stations, where they may combine good sport with safe harbours for theh yachts. Such directions will be foimd under the heads of Corfu , Santa Maura, and Ithaca , with regard to the coasts of Albania and Acar- nania. Farther south, there is capital wild-fowl shooting on the lagoons of Mesolonghi, and excellent cock-shooting in the woods near Patras. Recommendations had better be obtained from the English Consul at. Patras to some of the native proprietors, &c., who will provide beaters, &c. There is no law of trespass in these countries ; every one may follow his game 19 k. YACHTS, BOATS, ETC. unmolested, if lie avoids doing mischief to the vines or crops. But m the kingdom of Greece, it is necessary to have a certificate to legalize the pos¬ session of fire-arms, whether for sport or for self-defence. The trave had better procure this port d'armes from the local authorities of the> h- town he visits, as the fee amomits to only a few shdhngs; and lie is liable to arrest and fine, and to have liis arms taken from linn by the police, if he be without it. h. Yachts, Boats, &c. The number of Englishmen who visit Greece and the Levant in their own yachts is annuallv increasing. Moreover, a facility exists of visiting a great portion of the countrv, and making excursions to the islands, by the boats which mav be hired at most of the sea-ports, either by the day, week or month, according as may be required. The price of boat-hire vanes according to the size of the boat. A good-sized boat, which wdl accommo¬ date two persons and their attendants, may be engaged for 3 dollais a clay, though often much more is charged. If engaged for any length ot time, it is as well to have a written contract with the captain, specifymg every par¬ ticular, stipulating that the contractor is to have the absolute command ot the vessel, and proliibiting the crew from entermg any port whatsoever, carrving on anv trade, or putting any thing on board, without permission. If this be not done, numerous delays will ensue from the captain s running into all the small ports, and endeavouring to prolong the voyage, especially if the engagement be profitable and by the day. ... . ,. The traveller in Greece in the summer months will find it less fatiguing and more healtliv to establish himself in a boat for a month or two, and sail round the coast', visiting the islands of the iEgean, with little annoyance from custom-house or police-officers; see the towns and some of the mos beautiful parts of the country; and defer his excursions into the interior until the great heat subsides. His first care should be to select a good, and, if possible, a new boat, as more likely to be free from vermm, belonging to some person knoicn to an English Consul, or to some respectable resident merchant. There should be three or four able sadors on board, and the boat should be covered with an awning, which is to remain day and night. This is preferable in this climate to a close cabm. Provisions and stores must be laid in to last from one large town to another Formerly, from the prevalence of piracy, these excursions were impracticable; but now there is little danger; however, it will still be advisable for the traveller to obtain the best information on this point previous to undertakmg any such It is alwavs interesting for a classical scholar to find himself among Greek sailors; for'he wdl soon remark numerous instances in winch they stilt retain both the customs of the earliest ages, and also the old modes ot expressing them in language. The navigation of a people so essen la y maritime naturally affords frequent examples of the preservation ot ancient manners. The peg furnished with a loop of leather or rope (rpo^rrp), by which Greek boatmen secure their oars, instead of using rowlocks, and other contrivances and tactics of the ancients may be observed in daily use among the modems. So too the broad boat {dp-da tcu, corrupted from xXimai), or Robbers. But it is to be remembered, that to be a Klepht in Greece under the old Turkish regime was no more considered a disgrace than to be a pirate in the days of Homer, to be an outlaw in the time of Robin Hood, or a “ gentleman-cateran ” in the Highlands of Scotland a hundred and fifty years ago. On the contrary, the Klephtic chieftains were looked upon with favour and admiration by the mass of their Christian fellow-country¬ men, as their only avengers on their Mahoinmedan oppressors, or, at worst, as merely spoilers of the Egyptians. They were the popular heroes, the Hercules and Theseus of modem Greece : in the worst of times they kept ahve some sparks of the old Greek spirit; and their exploits formed the chief subject of the national ballads which were sung throughout the country by the wandering minstrels, the genuine descendants of the bards and rhapsodists of ancient Hellas. {See FawrieV s Chants populaires de la Grice.) “ So,” it has been observed, “ the English peasants sympathized entirely seven hundred years ago, and still do partly sympathize, with those gallant outlaws who retired from Norman tyranny to the depths of the forests, where they found ‘ no enemy but winter and rough weather.’ A captain of Greek Klephts used to reason like Roderick Dhu, in the Lady of the Lake ,— 30 l. OUTLINE OF GREEK HISTORY, • Pent in this fortress of the North, Think’st thou we will not sally forth To spoil the spoiler as we may, And from the robber rend the prey ?' ’’ These robbers of Greece were no vulgar or indiscriminate plunderers. Tlie Turkish Agas were the chief objects of their assaults, though their necessities obliged them at times to levy contributions also on the richer classes of their own compatriots. In the passes of Pindus, at the beginning of the present century, there flourished a regular Robin Hood, with a Greek p r ; es t_a complete Friar Tuck—in his band. This ecclesiastic used to take up a position in an old hollow oak, and his comrades, on catching a prisoner, were wont to bring him before this new Dodona, when a dialogue to the following purport ensued:— Robber- Captain.—" Speak, O holy oak, worshipped by our fathers, what shall we do with this captive of our bow and spear ? ” Oracle. —“ Is he a Christian believer, or an infidel dog ? ” Robber-Captain.—" Thou knowest, O holy tree, that he is a Christian believer.” . . Oracle.—" Then bid our brother pass on his way rejoicing, after ex¬ changing the kiss of love, and dedicating his purse to relieve the wants of his poorer brethren.” But if the captive was a Mussulman, the answer of the Oracle was speedy and decisive : “ Hang the unbeliever to my sacred branches, and confiscate all that he hath to the service of the true church and her faithful children.” It is a significant proof of the estimation in which the Klephts were held by theh countrymen, that the patriotic or national, in contra-distinction from the erotic and satirical songs of Modern Greece, were styled Klephtic ballads (KXs(pT/*« 'T^u.yoCbiu). Unable to subdue or destroy them, the Turks treated with the Klephts on favourable terms, recognizing tbeir right to bear arms, and, in many districts, organizing them into a kind of local police or militia, called Armatoles (’Aand analogous to the ancient Rlack Jf atch in Scotland. This species of force was unknown in the Peloponnesus, but was common in Northern Greece, where it became the nucleus of the armies of the future war of independence. Each company of Armatoles was com¬ manded by a captain and the Palicars (gra,Wriza/>ia.- a word used in a similar sense wdth “ boys ” in Ireland), or common soldiers, were armed with the usual weapons of their country, viz. a long gun, pistols, and yataghan , or dagger. Their arms, in the use of which they were generally very expert, as well as their dress and accoutrements, were often brilliant and costly; gay and rich apparel being the joy of all half-civilized warriors. _ Such was, in brief outline, the condition of the Greeks under the Turkish yoke. Our description of course is no longer applicable to the new kingdom of Greece, and but very partially so even to those Greek provhices of European Turkey which are not yet re-united to Christendom. For the Ottomans have been so thoroughly alarmed by the shock of the Greek Revolution, and the policy of Turkey is so completely controlled by the ambassadors and consuls of the great Christian powers, that the Rayahs are now in an utterly different position, politically and socially, from that which they occupied at the beginning of the present century. The Tanzimat of 1839 even professes to be a sort of Magna Charta, and to confer to some extent equal rights on all the subjects of the Sultan, without distinction of race or creed. Gross abuses still exist, and great corruption and oppression are occasionally practised; the dominion, too, of aliens in blood and religion 1. OUTLINE OF GREEK HISTORY. 31 must ever be distasteful to their subjects; yet the Rayali of the present day has more reason to hate the ruling caste tor what they were ot old than for' what they now are. He is regarded by the law more as a dissenter from the dominant religion than in any other light, while their increased knowledge and cirilization, the number of European travellers whom they see among them, and their adoption of so many European maxims and habits, have undoubtedly wrought a favourable change of character among the T tS first attempt of the Greeks to shake off the Ottoman yoke took place in a.d. 1770, when a few hundred Russians were landed in the Peloponnesus from a squadron fitted out at the command of the Empress Catherine 11., who was at that time at war with the Porte. Common hatred of the l urks and common attachment to the Eastern Church have always bound the Greeks to Russia ; and the invading force was rapidly augmented by large bodies of insurgents. But as no further succours were sent, and the buitan let loose a whole army of fierce and fanatical Albanians on the unfortunate country, the insurrection was crushed within the space of a few mont is, and such a terrible vengeance was inflicted that no other open out break took place for the next fifty years. , ,_, During this interval many patriotic Greeks, both at home and abroad, sought bv their writings to re-animate the spirit of their countrymen, and to prepare their minds for appreciating and regaining their independence. Schools were opened, in which the ancient literature of Hellas and a portion of that of Western Europe were taught, while translations were made into modern Greek of various useful and scientific works. Then, too, Rlugas—a native of Thessaly—the new Tyrtsus—composed that storinghymn {Awn „;h s ri, Etranslated by Lord Byron), which has since, like a trumpet- call, summoned the youth of Greece to many a deed of heroism. Rlugas himself fell an early 'victim, having been delivered up by the Austrians to the Turks in 1798' and put to death at Belgrade ; but his place was soon supplied bv others equally zealous and more discreet; and, above all, by the illustrious Corav-a man who has perhaps rendered greater services than any other Greek of modern times to both the language and the liberty of his country. He was born in Chios, but resided during the latter years of liia life at'Paris, especially favoured and protected by Aapoleon. llien too was formed a powerful political society, the Hetaina ('E«««.«), avowedly for the purpose of forwarding the emancipation of Greece. Its agents and associates spread themselves over the whole of the Ottoman Empire, the chief director being, as is generally believed, tbe celebrated Count John Capo d’lstria, a Corfiot bv birth, but who, after leaving his native island in an humble rank of the Russian diplomatic service, speedily rose to be one of the most influential ministers of the Emperor Alexander, these various plans of agitation had already done their work, when m the spring of 1821 the war between the Sultan and his powerful vassal Ah ^sha ot Joannina, by distracting the attention and arms of the Turks, affoic ec ie Greeks a favourable opportunity for open insurrection, the long s en voice of patriotism and nationality had been heard once more, t he pas glories of Greece and bright prophecies of future fame and splenc our ye awaiting her liberated people had become themes familiar not only o e scholar in his closet, but which tingled in the ears of the shepherd on t e mountain-side, of the vine-dresser among his grapes, of the tradesman behind his counter, of the mariner on the Ionian and the TEgean beas. Within a few months after that memorable morning, April 6, 1821, when Germanos, the patriot Archbishop of Batras, that Mattathias of Greece, liis 32 l. OUTLINE OF GREEK HISTORY. raised the standard of the Cross on the mountains of the Peloponnesus, the whole of the ancient Hellas, with the exception of a few towns and for¬ tresses, was in the hands of the Christians, and a National Congress had assembled to draw up a code of laws and a constitution. Our limits forbid us to detail in this place the disasters which subse¬ quently befell the patriotic cause—the efforts in its behalf of so many of our countrymen (such as Generals Church and Gordon, Lord Cochrane, and, above all, Lord Byron)—and the fluctuating fortunes of that long struggle which was terminated really hv the battle of Navarino hi October 1827, and formally in September 18*29, by the recognition on the part of the Ottoman Porte of the independence of Greece in the Treaty of Adrianople. Some account of its subsequent history, under the governments of Count Capo d’lstria and King Otho, will be found in the Introduction to Section II. of this work ; and for the War of Independence itself we refer the reader to the two best authorities, viz. Gordon’s History of the Greek Revolution and Keightley’s History of the War of Independence. To some of its most striking scenes allusion will be made in the following pages, but we shall now conclude this necessarily most imperfect sketch by some general reflections. “ The character of the Greek War of Independence has not been suffi¬ ciently appreciated in Western Europe, for it was, if all its circumstances are taken into consideration, the most heroic strife of modern times. There are many excellent persons who seem systematically to refuse all praise and admiration to the great exploits of recent history. In then* eyes, events of standard celebrity shine more splendid through the dim obscurity of ages, as mountains loom larger in the mist; to them, in the historical as in the natural world, ‘ ’tis distance lends enchantment to the view,’ and they look down with cold disdain on the present people of Greece, even while pro¬ fessing an extravagant veneration for their ancestors. And yet to contem¬ plate Mesolonghi with other feelings than those with which all educated men will, to the end of time, contemplate Thermopylae and Salamis, argues either ignorance or prejudice. If we consider the circumstances under which the struggle was begun and carried on, the late defence of the Greeks against the Turks must appear more admirable than that of their fore¬ fathers against the Persians. During then* wars with Darius and Xerxes, the Greeks were flushed with recollections of national pride and glory; their several communities were flourishing in all the energy of youth and free¬ dom ; they were inured to military life and exercises ; they were led by the most distinguished of then* fellow-countrymen; there were no foreign powers to interfere in the contest; the population of Attica alone was almost as great as that of all Greece Proper in 1821; and they possessed sailors and soldiers as superior to the Persians in discipline, physical strength, weapons, and spirit, as were the Spaniards under Cortes to the Mexicans, or the English under Clive to the Hindoos. Now to look on the other side of the picture. At the outbreak of the recent War of Independ¬ ence the Greeks had been enervated and cowed by four centuries of the most cruel slavery— Jj /juav yap T&perrjs airoalvirrai lupvoTra Zevs, ccvipos, svt &v [MV Kara SouAior iiyap e Apr at— they had long been forbidden the use of arms ; the Turks not only were immeasurably superior hi discipline and resources, and could bring against * Od. xvii. 322. In Pope “ Jove fixed it certain that whatever day Makes man a slave takes half his worth away.” 1. OUTLINE OF GREEK HISTORY. 33 them overwhelming forces by land and sea, but they were already cantoned in all their chief towns, fortresses, and villages ; the most wealthy, the best educated, and the most influential of the Greeks themselves were generally either merchants in foreign countries or diplomatic servants of the Porte ; the chief Christian Powers to whom they had looked for support, or at least for svmpathv, did all they could, during the first five years of the con¬ test, to browbeat and crush the insurgents as rebels to their legitimate sovereign; and the population of Constantinople alone exceeded that of the whole revolted province. Yet,-though driven front* their fields and homes to the haunts of the wolf and the vulture, ‘ in deserts and mountains, in dens and caves of the earth and though-what was more galling than all the arms of the infidels—appalled to find themselves treated as the common enemies of Christian Euroi>e,—those scanty levies of mountaineers from the continent, and of fishermen and traders from the islands, stiU never lost heart—for six long vears destroying or baffling in succession all the fleets and armies which the Sultan sent against them. Nothing, uuleed, can be more admirable than the tenacity with which the Greeks have alwaj s clung to their race and creed. How few renegades of pure Hellenic blood were found during the four centuries when apostacy not only rescued the rene¬ gade from the most bitter oppression, but opened him a direct path to all the dignities and honours of the empire, making him at once a master instead of a slave! . , ,, . m .. , _ “ The cruelties which they occasionally exercised on then- Turkish prisoners have been repeatedly urged against the Greeks. But we must remember that the insurgents saw in their opponents their private as well as their public foemen—not onlv the bitter enemies of their race and creed, but also the desolaters of their' country, the robbers of their property, the dis¬ honourers of their dearest relatives. Their conduct cannot, therefore, fairly be fudged according to the humane code of modern warfare. Most of the Turkish leaders, too, set the example of giving no quarter. And yet the Greeks never committed anv such atrocities during the late struggle as the execution in cold blood of the Plataans and Mchans by their fellow- countrymen during the Peloponnesian war. Let us at least be consistent in our praise and blame. Moreover, such was the nature of the War ot Independence, that, in reading its annals, we behold, in all their simple naked¬ ness, those mysteries of the heart—those fiercer passions and ruder outlines of character which are softened and smoothed down m quieter tunes and by modern civilisation. Hence, not only in the same nation, but often in the same individual, were displayed all the weakness and all the strength o mankind—the meanest vices mingled with the noblest virtues. “ It is true that it was the battle of Navarino which finally assured liberty to the Greeks. Still it would be unjust and ungenerous to deny them the credit of having fought out their own independence against their old master. For the Satrap of Egypt was virtually a foreign ally, and only nominally a vassal of the Sultan ; and when Ibrahim appeared in Pelopon¬ nesus in 1825, the cause of Turkey was as desperate as that of Greece in 1827. While the energies of the insurgents were fresh, they m lght pro¬ bably have baffled the combined forces of the Ottomans and of the Egyp¬ tians ; but the latter came on the scene when they were already exhausted by their long death-struggle with the former. The allied fleets then on y frustrated one foreign interference by another, and placed the Grecos once more on the footing which they had held before the arrival of Ibrahim. Ho wen. 34 m. PRESENT CONDITION OF THE GREEK CHURCH. m. Sketch of the present condition of the Greek Church. The great Christian communion generally known in the West as the Greek Church calls itself the Orthodox Church of the Bast ('H OejCtolo-, Ava-roXix^i ExaXv««, to flow, and with Nereus, Nereides, Ac. So again, the adoption of many Latin terms (census, custodies, speculator, &c.) in the Hellenistic Greek, is an exemplification of the usage which led in later times to the adoption of Yenetian and Turkish words. At the present day, throughout the whole extent of the countries where Greek is spoken—from Corfu to Trebisond, and from Adrianople to Crete— the only dialect essentially different from the ordinary language is that of a small mountainous district between Argos and Sparta, vulgarly called Tzakonia, ».oy.iim ■ whereas the Greeks, by placing the accent on the final syllable of 6-m, adapt the pronunciation to quantity in an instance where an Englishman does not so adapt it; and, by accenting the third syllable of the dactyl in «vA«ptw, they recede from quantity only in the same degree as the Englishman. In fact, we Englishmen, in reading Hel¬ lenic poetry, fall into the very same error of violating the quantity, of which we accuse the Greeks ; for we have come, according to the practice of our own language, to throw back the accent as often as possible on the ante- penultima ; in other words, we do pronounce Greek chiefly by accent, and not quantity; but we put our English accents on Greek words, disregarding the traditional accentuation of the Greeks themselves. The truth probably is, that the elevation and depression of tone in a syllable—in other words, its accent —has no necessary connexion with its quantity, i. e. its extension. 40 n. OBSERVATIONS ON THE MODERN GREEK LANGUAGE. Thus there is no reason why the accent on the first syllable of "OXv/xm should make that syllable long in point of time, any more than there is any reason why the accent on the first syllable of the English word honestly should make that syllable long, or the second syllable short. Moreover, if any practical Englishman—after reading Pennington’s and Blackie’s treatises —still asks How Homer or Sophocles should he read ? let him reflect that it was probably never intended that they should be read at all, but rather chanted, or recited, as in the recitative of a modern opera. And every one knows that accentuation in singing is a very different thing from accentua¬ tion in reading. .... . „ We shall now proceed to give some practical directions lor the pronunci¬ ation of Greek letters according to the practice of the modem Greeks, without entering upon the vexata qucestio of how far their system agrees with that of the ancients. Those sounds only will be noted wherein we Englishmen are at variance with the Greeks. Some explanation will be subjoined of the more striking peculiarities of the Neo-Hellenic grammar and syntax. « is pronounced by the Greeks like a in father. i and . . a . . vale. i, v, u, ot, . . e . . me. . . o . . gone. . . ou . . soup. au \ . afav. after, avow. . . efev. effort, ever. Again, j3 invariably has the force of . . v in English. (When Greeks wish to express in wilting the B and D of English names, they use p* and vt.) y has a sound between the English g and y consonant, akin to that of the same letter in German. Before y, *, ?, *, it has the sound of ng. When the Greeks wish to give the sound of our g before the slender vowels, they use yx. 3 is pronounced like th in thus. 6 . th . think. y is pronounced like the English h, with the addition of a slight guttural intonation. There are corresponding sounds in Irish, Scotch, and Spanish. Aspirations are placed by the moderns in writing wherever they were used by the ancients; but in speaking they are quite dropped, as m Italian. Accents are placed wherever they were placed by the ancients. JN o dis¬ tinction of sound is made between the circumflex and acute accent. Number case, and gender. The same as in the Hellenic grammar, among educated moderns, except that the dual seems universally dropped. Articles. The definite article is the same as m Hellenic. The indefinite article is borrowed, as in other modern languages, from the first numeral, h;, ^ Substantives are declined, as in Hellenic, by the educated in writing, though all sorts of solecisms are committed colloquially. Thus the accusa¬ tive of imparisyllabic nouns is frequently substituted for the nominative in names both of places and of things. An analogous practice in Latin very probably produced Italian, for the norms of that language are generally formed from the oblique cases of Latin ; e. g. regno from regnum. . It is to be observed that many of the substantives taken from the Hellenic have undergone a remarkable change of meaning. Leake says “ The use of generals for specifics, of specifics for generals, of attributes and accidents for the objects themselves, will account for the etymology of many words in the n OBSERVATIONS ON THE MODERN GREEK LANGUAGE. 41 modem dialect.” Thus ixoyes, irrational, converted into a neuter substan¬ tive, has become the common word for horse, as being the irrational animal most frequently mentioned. Diminutives' are used in modem Greek, as in Italian, in a caressing or endearing sense, like the l*t>xoo,api'o; of the ancients ( Arist. Rhet., iii.), e. g. **,},', a child; **,1**, a little child. Augmentatires arc very rare: e.g. *du*r, from *ih;. Sometimes caressing expressions are applied to hateful ideas, e.g. the small-pox is called iufXayi*, just as the Furies were called Eumenides, as if to disarm their wrath. Another class of diminutives is come into great use as patronymics, which have been frequently formed by adding *w\t; (from *uXos, by a common and ancient conversion) to the name'of a father or ancestor, e.g. Christopulos (Xftar4*tuXts) is made the family name of the descendants of a Christos, &c. Other patronymics have been formed in tins. The last generation of Greek peasants rarely had any surnames. Like their ancestors, individuals of the same name were dis¬ tinguished by the addition of the names of their fathers, and by those of their native places. Parallel examples may be found in the nomenclature of clans and families in Wales and Scotland. Adjectives are theoretically the same as in Hellenic ; but in practice there are many corruptions, especially in the degrees of comparison, e. g. p-iyaXi- noo; for fJLi Pronouns. As in Homer, so in modern Greek, the oblique cases of the article are often used for the third personal pronoun. The enclitics used possessivelv for the plural of so and lyu are **s and //.a.;, perhaps archaic forms. The ancient possessive pronouns arc, however, returning into use among the learned and polished ; but the more common way of expressing them is by attaching to norms the genitive of the primitive pronoun as an enclitic, e. g. *s y.u/j.r, p.»u, my opinion. There are a host of irregular pro¬ nominal adjectives in vulgar use— e. g. x*n, some xi.ii, each. | indecl. &c. &c. Verbs have undergone little change in most of their inflexions. The 3rd pers. pi. of the pres. ind. generally ends in * instead of ii, I would have written; hx* ye&'4 i ‘> I had icritten. The future active is supplied by the present tense of 6ixu and the Hellenic first future infinitive, with the final v elided, according to a common practice. In the passive voice the adjunct is formed by the elision of »«< from the 1st aorist infinitive. The gradual neglect of the future, and the growing use of its substitute, may be traced up to the earliest period of the decline of the Greek language. Leake quotes from an old Romaic poet the fol¬ lowing lines which exemplify the formation of these adjuncts:— X&fiv Ktx.) rifAnOnv xai xeu t 7 rXovTitruv J xoli rov; \xfyovg trov trrov Xaiftov 0eXus xccrctTcir'/itruv. These verses, moreover, are a sample of the usual metre of Romaic ballad poetry—a metre which Lord Byron compares to that of the famous ditty: “ A captain bold of Halifax who lived in country quarters.” The substantive verb hp.*, is not used as an auxiliary, but it has many irregular inflexions, of which the principal are :— Present Indicative . . . hpo*,, haa,, hv*,, tiuiia., hah, emai. Perfect . lariOm, &c. (borrowed from "arnyi). 42 0. CHARACTER, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS OF GREECE. Pluperfect . l‘X a rratij, &c. Future . 6iXu Tirteu, &c. Present Subjunctive . . . ripai, raa.i, rivcu, rfi-Ja., rah, Jva/. The Imperative Mood in a present or future sense is expressed by it (contracted from atpis, let) with the Hellenic subjunctive; ex. gr. it yea.fr,, let him write. Tlie Infinitive Mood is beginning again to be used as a noun of neuter gender, but as a verb its place is supplied by prefixing v« ('/»*) to the Hellenic present or 1st aorist subjunctive; ex.gr. /iiu&iit va yeclfu, you force me to write. Adverbs, Conjunctions, &c. are, among the highly educated, the same as in Hellenic ; but there are many corrupted forms in vulgar use. Prepositions have now, in theory, the same rules as in Hellenic, but, in practice, they are generally all coupled with the accusative case. It is necessary to remark, in conclusion, that the foregoing observations are by no means intended to embrace an entire system of Neo-Hellenic grammar; much less, it is hoped, will they be construed into an ambitious attempt to reduce into order the irregularities of the modern tongue. The uncertainties and variations to which a dialect not yet thoroughly me¬ thodised is liable, render almost impossible any such endeavour even in a native of Greece. All that has been attempted is to give such a sketch of the present condition of the language, as spoken by educated Greeks, as will explain some of its apparent anomalies, and facilitate its acquisition sufficiently for common purposes. The great majority of the English travellers who pass annually through Greece converse with no individual among the natives above the rank of a guide or a muleteer, and because the dialect of such men is not purely classical, they jump to the conclusion that the modern Greeks no longer speak the language of -Escliylus and Thucydides. These hasty critics forget that if a Greek traveller, vrell acquainted with English literature (as many Greeks are), were to associate in our own country with none but Highland gillies and London cabmen, he might with about equal reason pronounce that the modern English no longer speak the language of Milton and Clarendon. o . Character, Manners, and Customs of the Inhabitants of Greece, and of the Greek Provinces of Turkey. Besides a few thousand Jews in some of the chief towns, and the Tuiks who form the ruling caste in the Greek provinces of the Ottoman Empire (see Handbook for Turkey), the three distinct nations inhabiting the countries described in the present work are 1. The Greeks; 2. The Albanians; 3. The Wallachs. 1. The Greeks ( Hellenes). The following account of the Greek character, and of the travellers who have described it, is extracted from a letter addressed, in October 1843, to the Morning Chronicle, under the signature of “ Demotes “ Travellers in Greece are generally of the following classes—classical and literary, who concern themselves little with what has happened there since the days of Pericles or at least of Marcus Agrippa. The next most numerous are naval and military; the former have seen Greece twenty years since, or during the war of 1824 to 1830, and the era of piracy just afterwards. Their estimate must necessarily be fallacious, for, touching rapidly m many parts they have only seen the mixed population of the towns, and contuse the Greeks of Hellas with the Montenegrins, the Albanians, the Ionians, the 43 0. CHARACTER, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS OF GREECE. Turkish Greeks, and the islanders under the sway of Mehemet All. They speak of a period only sixteen years since, truly ; but, if counted bv the progress of a free people, a period as long as from W dliam and Mary to Victoria. They relate habits and anecdotes belonging to that period, and quietly assume them to be just indications of the state of Greece alter sixteen years of peace. I have heard one of these gentlemen, who, by the way, commanded a ship at Navarino, loudly declaim against the Greeks, as knowing them well; and upon my asking him if he had been at Athens, lio replied, ‘ Oh, ves ; we saded round the whole island .’ \ et this gentleman s opinions were believed, because he had been in Greece ; though he knew no the difference between Poros and Attica. Again, the military travellers aie generally voung men from the garrisons of the Ionian islands who at once transfer to Greece all the prejudices they have contracted against the Ionians, a very different race, whom we have certainly not saved from the contamination of Venetian blood and laws. These young men run over a part of Greece rapidly, cast a glance at its mountains and rums, find muleteers and boatmen cheat them, laugh at Otho s army, and at onco condemn the whole nice, without knowing a single gentleman, or even a single peasant in the country, or having learned a sentence of the language. “ The next class are the passengers to and from India. Accustomed to luxury, they are annoyed at not finding it, and surprised at being at a point as distant from India and England morally as it is geographical^ ; merely passing by accident, a mere passing glance has been suthcient loi them, of a country in which they neither feel nor pretend to feel an interest. Next come the book writers—German princes, for instance, or noble marquesses from England, whose books are like Chinese maps, t le writer himself representing the Celestial Empire, and the subject some small islands which fill up the rest of the world. These noble authors are not likely to give any very accurate ideas to their respective countrymen. “ Lastly, there are the disappointed jobbers, would be settlers, Ac. lliey have found Greeks a good deal keener at a bargain than themselves, or as thev think, stupidly waiting while the Pactolus is flowing before them, and while, in fact, they are ‘ aye biding their time.’ Thus it is that fewer travellers can give a decent account of Greece than of any other coun ry, and scarcely anv have attempted to speak of the Greeks from personal knowledge, for this simple reason—they have never been able to speak to them for want of a common language. The Greeks are often called assassins, robbers, &c., yet I knew the commander of police well, when a whole winter at Athens—the population being 20,000—and there was no case of housebreaking or murder. Indeed, my kitchen was cleared of its contents, being an outhouse, and a householder killed in a village; but the one, as most other pilferings, was the work of Bavarians, and the other the crime of a British subject—a Maltese. Greeks are generally called rogues, yet m commerce no Greek merchant of consequence has failed ; and both an astu e English merchant and a canny Scotch agent have often told me a bill, wit i three good Greek name 3 to it, is security never known to fail. The peasants are in the habit of borrowing money without any legal security, and always repay it; and I have known a couple of sheep-stealers hunted through the country, and forced to take to the mountains for having stolen sheep from their own village—a crime their fellow-peasants never forgive. Lastly, as to cruelty, when the Bavarian army was defeated in 1834, in General Hiedecle’s absurd expedition to enforce taxes in Maina, not a single soldier was put to death when the conflict was over, though every one was m the power of the Mainotes. Whatever may be the faults of the Greeks, they 44 0 . CHARACTER, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS OF GREECE. have two great Redeeming virtues, which, if fostered, must lead to great results—a universal and deep-rooted respect for the Christian religion, and an ardent thirst after knowledge. Athens, in 1840, had 3000 of its 20,000 souls under education; a larger proportion, perhaps, than any other capital in Europe.” In forming an estimate of the present character and condition of the Greeks, it is only simple justice to hear constantly in mind that we are con¬ templating a people divided among three different states, and of which more than a full moiety is still subject to the debasing despotism of Turkey, while a generation has not yet passed away since the new kingdom of Greece emerged from a war of extermination. With all their manifold dis¬ advantages the progress effected by the Greek nation during the last quarter of a century entitles it in many respects to our applause and admiration. For example, the hereditary ingenuity and perseverance of the Greeks are displayed to an extraordinary degree by the manner in which they have contrived, in about thirty years, to found and retain their present extensive commerce. Already the large and rapidly increasing corn trade of the Black Sea and a great portion of the general traffic of the Mediterranean are almost exclusively in the hands of Greek merchants. Nor is there a great city in Europe, Asia, or even America, where there are not extensive Greek mercantile houses. In a printed official report, Mr. Green, late British consul at the Piraeus, declares—“ Though it would be ridiculous to say that the Greeks are not sharp to a defect, I have no doubt but that their success is to be attributed to their talents, foresight, experience, untiring activity, economical habits, and the local advantages which they possess. Those who deal in general accusations against the Greek mercantile body would be more likely to compete with it by the imitation of some of the above-named qualities.” The Greek firms in England itself, with branch houses in the Levant, now exceed 200, and the yearly amount of their trans¬ actions in the grain trade alone is computed at no less than four millions sterling. Their business is universally allowed to be conducted with the utmost diligence and exactness ; and even in Great Britain the Greeks suc¬ cessfully compete with merchants from all parts of the world. This part of our subject may be aptly summed up in the words of the author of The Ionian Islands under British Protection: —“ We shall indeed be proud and happy if any labours of ours, now or hereafter, can prove of service to any part of the Greek race, by diffusing in England accurate information as to their present condition and character. They have been much misre¬ presented, partly through ignorance, partly through prejudice. Classical travellers have been too ready to look down with cold disdain on the forlorn estate of a people for whose ancestors they profess even an extravagant veneration ;—foreigners resident among them have been too ready to accuse of every meanness and every vice the sons of those fathers who taught honour and virtue to the ancient world.” No doubt the Greek character has suffered much from centuries of slavery. All the vices which tyranny generates—the abject-vices which it generates in those who quail under it—the ferocious vices which it generates in those who struggle against it—have occasionally been exhibited by Greeks in modem times. The valour which of old won the great battle of European, civilization, which saved the West and conquered the East, was often most eminently displayed by pirates and robbers. The ingenuity, of old so con¬ spicuous in eloquence, in poetry, in philosophy, in the fine arts, in every department of physical and moral science, was often found to have sunk into a timid and servile cunning. Still, to repeat—as foreigners in the 45 0 . CHARACTER, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS OF GREECE. Levant are frequently repeating—that those plausible barbarians, the Turks, have more honour and honesty than the Greeks, is but faint praise. They have never had the same necessity, or, at least, the same sore temptation, to practise fraud and falsehood. What other arms against their Latin and Moslem oppressors were left for many centuries to the unhappy Greeks ? We envy neither the head nor the heart of the man who can travel from Thermopylae to Sparta, and from Sparta to Corcyra, and say that all is barren, or who is ever seeking for motes in the bright eyes of Hellas. For our own part we love the country and the race. Despite their many faults we call to mind their misfortunes and the blood that is in them, and still love the Greeks. Their forefathers were the intellectual aristocracy of mankind. To them may be traced the beginnings of all mental refinement, and of all free political institutions. Christianity itself is inseparably con¬ nected with the Greek language. No other nation can ever do for the human race what the Greeks did. It has been said of Newton that he was a fortunate man, for there was only one system of the universe to discover. We may, in like manner, say of the Greeks that they were a fortunate people, for they took the one great step from the stationary into the pro¬ gressive form of society ; the advance from the darkness of Asiatic barbarism into the light of European civilization could only be made once. Lord Bacon is “ H gran maestro di color che sanno ” in the modern, as Dante said of Aristotle in the ancient world; and he has thus written of the Greeks—“ Scientiee quas habemus, fere a Grsecis fluxerunt. Quse enim scriptores Romani, aut Arabes, aut recentiores addiderunt, non multa aut magni momenti sunt; et, qualiacunque sint, fundata sunt super basim eorum quee inventa sunt a Graecis .”—Novum Organon , i. 71. The manners and customs of the higher and best educated classes among the Greeks now differ but little from those of Western Europe. Both ladies and gentlemen generally dress in the fashions of France and Italy. A considerable number of the latter, however, wear the Greek national costume on the same principle as that which induces many Scotchmen to assume the kilt. This dress is generally worn by King Otho himself, and by many members of the senate and assembly. It is the Albanian costume, and has been adopted in Greece only since the Revolution. It may be made very costly. Those who can afford it wear two or three velvet jackets, one inside the other, all richly embroidered with gold and lace, and with fanciful patterns of birds, flowers, stars, &c. with white fustanelles, or kilts, bound round the waist by a shawl or belt, generally containing pistols and daggers, often with silver hilts and scabbards curiously worked, and sometimes studded with precious stones. An Albanian chieftain wears also at his belt a whole armoury of little silver cartouche-boxes, and a small silver ink-horn; in fact he invests all his money in his arms and apparel. Embroidered mocassins and sandals, the fez, or red skull-cap, with a flowing blue tassel, and the shaggy white capote , or cloak, complete this truly classical costume. The dress of the Greek women varies in different districts. Those of the higher classes, who have not yet adopted French fashions, wear a red skull-cap, often set with pearls, an embroidered jacket fitting close to the body, and a loose petticoat of gay colours. The national dress is almost universally worn by the peasantry on the main land, but the islanders, both of the Ionian and iEgean Seas, wear a garb of a very different cut—consisting of a jacket of rough dark cloth, with wide blue trowsers, descending only as far as the knee. The red fez, and long stockings and sandals, complete the island costume. Among the Greeks, families are usually more united than in other 46 0, CHARACTER, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS OF GREECE. countries; and it is an unfrequent consequence of the death of a father that the children should divide the property which they inherit and separate ; the more general course being that the elder son, though entitled to no greater portion, should become the head of the family, and manage the common inheritance for the common benefit of all his brothers and sisters. Poor relations, dependants, and servants are almost universally kindly treated by the Greeks. The influx of foreign customs has of late years brought about a great difference in tins respect, as in others, at Corfu, Athens, and other large towns, but elsewhere marriages are generally managed by the parents or friends of a young couple. This royal mode of match-making is still as common among the Greeks now as of old. Even in the Ionian Islands young ladies, with few exceptions, seldom go into society before marriage. However, girls are nowhere married without a dowry ; and the first care of parents, of whatever condition, is to set aside such portions for their daughters as their station in life requires. Moreover, it is common among the young Greeks to refrain from taking a wife themselves until their sisters are married; indeed the marriage of a son (except under peculiar circumstances advantageous to his family), until his sisters have been settled in life, would be calculated to shock the feelings of the circle in which that family moved. It has been truly observed that the domestic habits of the Greek pea¬ santry, and indeed of all classes which have not as yet learnt to imitate the manners of the West, seem not to have undergone any great change since the time of Homer. Many even of their superstitions are probably as old as the age of Hesiod. That their manners are almost identical with those of the Turks, except in those points in which their respective religions have given rise to a difference, may be attributed to the strong tincture of Oriental customs, which is traceable in the Greeks of every age, in consequence of their situation on the borders of the Eastern World. But though the resemblance may thus partly be traced to a common origin, the Turks have probably adopted most of their present customs in the progress of their conquest of Greece and Asia Minor, during which they gradually exchanged the rude and simple habits of Tartary for the comparative refinement and luxury of the Byzantine empire. It may be worth mentioning, that all Levantines, whether Greeks or Moslems, may frequently be seen twirling a string of beads in their fingers. This is a mere restless habit, and is nowise connected with any religious ' observance, such as the use of rosaries among the Latins. The superstitious belief in the Evil Eye is common in Greece, as in the rest of the East. Amulets are often worn as safeguards against its influence. It is due to the Greeks to mention that inebriety is a vice almost un¬ known among them. They are great drinkers of water ( ■ Pack¬ ets. _1. Money— 5. Shops, Servants, §c— 6. Inns and Accommodation for Travellers. 1. Historical Sketch and actual Condition, &c. The Ionian Islands lie along the coast of Epirus, Acarnania, and the Pelopon¬ nesus, between the parallels of 36 3 and 40' N. lat., and 19 and 23 E. long. The principal islands, with their area and population in round numbers, are as follows :— Name. Area in Square Miles. Population. Corfu. 227 65,000 Cephalonia .... 348 70, 000 Zante. 156 40, 000 Santa Maura .... 180 20,000 Ithaca. 45 10, 000 Cerigo. 118 10, 000 Paxo. 26 5, 000 Total . . 1,100 220, 000* The above seven islands alone possess local governments; but there are a number of others of minor importance (Eano, Merlera, Salmatraki, Antipaxo, Meganisi, Calamos, Petala, Cerigotto, &c.) dependent on them, and together with them constituting the United States of the Ionian Islands (To Hvoy/.-'vov Kpani Ionoov NaVwv), which is the official designation. Under the Venetian regime, Butrinto, Parga, Prevesa, Vonitza, and one or two other stations on the coast of the mainland,"were also annexed to the Ionian Islands, and, equally with them, were governed by a great Proconsul, styled Provveditore Generale. An outline of the history of each of the islands will be given under its separate head, for in ancient times they were connected by no common bond of union, but formed separate states, often distinct both in race and polity. Like the rest of Greece, they passed under the Homan sway, and in the decline of the Empire were partitioned out among various Latin princes, and desolated by the ravages of corsairs, Christian as well as Mahommedan. After many vicissitudes, the inhabitants of Corcyra, or Corfu, placed themselves in a.d. 1386 under the sovereignty of Venice ; and the other islands of the Ionian Sea successively fell during the next two centuries under the do mini on of that modem Carthage. The Greek possessions of the Republic were systematically governed by corrup- tion and tyranny. In each, island, the executive was composed entirely of natives of Venice, presided over by needy and rapacious Provveditori, sent out to enrich themselves, after the old Roman fashion, on the spoils of the provinces. These officials rarely swerved from the maxims laid down for their guidance by the famous Venetian Councillor of State, Era Paolo Sarpi, and which are epi¬ tomized by Daru ( Histoire de Venise, xxxix. 17) as follows : — “ Dans les * About 8000 may be added to this number for the English garrison, and other resident aliens. Maltese, &c. 54 1 . HISTORICAL SKETCH AND ACTUAL CONDITION, ETC. Sect. I. colonies se souvenir qu’il n’y a rien de moins sur que la foi des Grecs. Etre persuade qu’ils passeraient sans peine sous le joug des Turcs, a l’exemple du reste de leur nation. Les traiter comme des animaux feroces ; leur rogner les dents et les griffes, les humilier souvent; surtout leur oter les occasions de s’a- guerrir. Du pain et le baton, voilh ce qu’il leui’ faut; gardons l’kumanite pour une meilleure occasion.” In conformance with these amiable precepts, the Ionians were heavily taxed for the support of the Venetian garrisons and fortresses; the administration of justice was utterly corrupt; bribery was all-powerful in every department of government; the greater portion of the revenue was embezzled by the collectors ; and open war was waged against a nationality which had endured throughout the vicissitudes of two thousand years. The young Ionians of the higher orders were sent to the Italian Universities, where, to quote the French General de Vaudoncourt ( Memoires sur les lies loniennes , cap. ii.), “an act of the most per¬ fidious Machiavelism, decorated with the pompous title of privilege,” enabled them to purchase degrees without passing the regular examinations required of other students. At home, all education whatsoever was discouraged, and the Greek language was banished from all official documents and from the society of the upper classes, though the peasants in the country districts still clung fondly to their national dialect along with their national creed. The Roman Catholic was declared the dominant Church, though it numbered among its votaries few beyond the Venetian settlers and their descendants. Again, some of the insular oligarchies, by a more ample use of corruption, were empowered to oppress and overawe their own countrymen: hence factions arose in all the islands, which, though the laws have been faithfully and rigidly executed under the British Protectorate, are not yet totally extinct; and from time to time—as in Cephalonia in 1848 and 1849—have broken out into cruel and bloody excesses. On the fall of Venice in 1797, the treaty of Campo Formio transferred the Ionian Islands to the French Republic, and they were occupied by a small French garrison, which was ere long expelled by a combined Russian and Turkish expedition. According to the provisions of a treaty between the Czar and the Sidtan (March 21, 1800), the Ionian Islands were now erected into a separate state, under the vassalage of the Porte, and dignified with the title of the Sept- insular Republic. But within the short space of two years, all the Seven Islands had been guilty of treason and rebellion against their general government, while each separate island had also risen repeatedly against its local authorities. Horrors resembling those of the Coreyrsean factions described by Thucydides were of daily occurrence; in Zante alone assassinations have been so numerous as one for each day in the year—an unusual average for a population of less than 40,000. Terrified by this condition of their affairs, the principal Ionians sent, in 1802, an envoy named Naranzi to the Russian Emperor, to implore his imme¬ diate interference, as the only means of putting an end to such anarchy. Naranzi was instructed to state that the Ionians were disposed to receive with blind resignation whatever new constitution might be granted to them; that they wished it to be the work of the “ adorable hand ” of the Autocrat himself, or at all events, of “ a single legislatorand that it should be supported by “ an imposing force of Russian soldiers.” In consequence of this address, the Czar empowered his plenipotentiary, Count Mocenigo, a native of Zante, to remodel the form of government established in 1800; and under his auspices, new forms of administration were proclaimed both in 1803 and 1806. But by the Treaty of Tilsit in 1807, the Islands were surrendered by Russia to Napoleon, when fhe'Septinsular Republic “ ceased to exist,” and was incorporated with the French Empire. In 1809 and 1810, all the islands, except Corfu and Paxo, were captured by an English expedition, which was enthusiastically welcomed Ionian Islands. 1 . historical sketch and actual condition, etc. 55 by the inhabitants. Paxo fell early in 1814; Corfu itself, saved from attack by its strong fortresses and large French garrison, was strictly blockaded until the fad of Napoleon, when one of the first acts of the restored Bourbons was to direct its surrender to the British forces. Finally, on November 5, 1815, a Treaty was signed at Paris by the Plenipotentiaries of Russia, Austria, Prussia, and England, whereby the Ionian Islands, of which England was then in actual possession—six by right of conquest and one by surrender from the French— were erected into “ a free and independent state” under the immediate and exclusive protection of the British Crown. Moreover, the military command of the islands was reserved to the Protecting Sovereign, who was to be represented by a Lord High Commissioner, invested with authority to regulate the laws and general administration, the forms of summoning a Constituent Assembly, and its proceedings in drawing up a Constitutional Charter. Sir Thomas Maitland, the first Lord High Commissioner, was an officer ot great talents and experience, and is well described by his usual sobriquet oi King Tom. A Constitutional Charter drawn up under his direction was adopted by the Ionian Constituent Assembly in 1817. In it were embodied with great skill such principles of liberty as would enable the Protecting Power to grant, so soon as the people should he fitted to receive it, a perfect system of self- government. Whatever may have been the defects of the Constitution of 1817, and of various functionaries employed under its provisions, it undoubtedly con¬ ferred on the Ionians thirty years of peace and prosperity, utterly unparalleled in the history of their country. Justice was at last administered among them without corruption; the revenue was freed from peculation ; life and property became secure; the people were no longer a despised or degraded caste; the native functionaries were treated with respect and courtesy ; and every man, high and low, found in every representative of England a power with both the will and the means to support the right and redress the wrong. At the same time, every form of material prosperity received an impetus; excellent roads, previously unknown in the Levant, were made throughout the islands; harbours, quays, and aqueducts were constructed; trade and agriculture were encouraged; educa¬ tional institutions for every class and grade were founded: taxation is light, and levied almost exclusively on imports and exports ; direct and municipal taxes ot all kinds are nearly unknown. The instinct of nationality has doubtless pro¬ duced a general, though vague, desire, especially in the southern Islands, for an ultimate union with the kingdom of Greece, when it shall have become more orderly and civilized: but all enlightened Ionians see that for such a consumma¬ tion they must bide their time, and meanwhile are well content to enjoy the many practical benefits of British connexion. In 1848 and 1849, Lord Seaton, then Lord High Commissioner, introduced some sweeping changes into the Ionian Constitution, including vote by ballot, a very extended suffrage, and a liberty of the press less restricted practically than in any other country of the world. The relations between the protecting power and the protected people have not been so smooth and cordial after as before these reforms ; but it is yet too soon to pronounce an opinion on their ultimate results ; nor does such an inquiry come within the scope of the present work. For full information on the recent political history of the Ionian Islands, the reader is referred to the Parliamentary Papers published on the subject at various periods between 1816 and 1853, and to two articles in the Quarterly Review., Nos. 57 and 182. The following is a sketch of the Ionian Government as at present con¬ stituted :— The Legislature is composed of the Lord High Commissioner (A^ewis), a Senate (r^ovelu.), and an Assembly (B wX-n). 56 1 . HISTORICAL SKETCH AND ACTUAL CONDITION, ETC. Sect. I. The Lord High Commissioner is the representative of the protecting sovereign, has a veto on all the acts of the Senate and Assembly, conducts the foreign rela¬ tions of the state, and has under his own immediate control the police and health departments. He is represented in each of the six southern islands by an English functionary styled Resident, whose position, with respect to the local government, is as that of the Lord High Commissioner with respect to the general government. The Secretary of the Lord High Commissioner, in addition to his other duties, acts also as Resident of Corfu. The Senate is the Upper House of Legislature, and also the Executive Council of the State. All appointments, with very few exceptions, are made by it, subject to the approbation of the Lord High Commissioner; and all orders emanate from it to the local governments. It consists of a president, nominated for five years by the protecting sovereign, and of five members, one for each of the four larger islands (Corfu, Cephalonia, Zante, Santa Maura), the three smaller islands supplying one senator in rotation. The members of the Senate are nominated by the Lord High Commissioner, and three of the five must be chosen out of the Assembly. The ordinary duration of the Senate, like that of the Assembly, is five years. The Lord High Commissioner has the power of proroguing the Ionian Parliament, but that of dissolution is vested only in the protecting sovereign. The Assembly consists of forty-two deputies, of whom Corfu, Cephalonia, and Zante return ten each, Santa Maura six, and Ithaca, Cerigo, and Paxo two each. It meets at Corfu every second year, on the 1st of March, unless con¬ voked oftener in extraordinary sessions. The management of the finances of the State is entirely in the hands of the Assembly, with the exception of 38,000?, out of an annual revenue averaging upwards of 160,000?. This sum is reserved, after the manner of the civil lists in the British colonies—25,000?. being yearly paid over to the commissariat at Corfu as a military contribution towards the expenses of the garrison, and 13,000?. being apportioned for the salaries of the Lord High Commissioner (5000?. per annum), of the Chief Secretary, of the Residents, and of some other principal functionaries. Besides the general government, of which Corfu is the seat, each of the seven islands has also a local government, consisting of a municipal council, elected by popular suffrage, and presided over by an Ionian functionary, styled Regent (”E vapx*>s). Since 1851, Greek has been the official language of the Ionian government and courts of law. Previously, Italian was used. The judicial poiver is lodged in a Supreme Court of Appeal at Corfu, and in Civil, Criminal, and Police Courts established in all the islands. Since the Ionians came under the English Protectorate, a code of laws, founded partly on the Code Napoleon, has replaced the confused mass of Venetian edicts and per¬ plexed regulations previously in force. The Greek Church was restored by the Constitution of 1817 to its proper position as the dominant creed of the Ionian Islands. Some of the Sees are very ancient, and the names of Ionian bishops appear in the records of the early ecclesiastical councils. Each of the seven islands now possesses its own bishop, elected by the clergy, approved by the Senate and Lord High Co mmi ssioner, and confirmed by the Patriarch of Constantinople. The prelates of the three smaller islands enjoy the title of Bishop (E ■rlirx.ovos) simply; whereas the Bishops of Corcyra, Cephallenia, Zacynthus, and Leucas are styled Metropolitans (m»tjo- veXirai), and, though without suffragans, have the rank of archbishops. Each of these four prelates is named in turn for five years to the office of Ex arch ("E w ho is the medium of communication between the Ionian Church and its Primate—the Patriarch of Constantinople. An Ecclesiastical Semi• Ionian Islands. 1 . historical sketch and actual condition, etc. 57 nary, for the education of the Greek clergy, is attached to the University of Corfu. There is a Soman Catholic Bishop at Corfu; but the number of Latins in all the islands amounts only to a few thousands, of whom the greater part are aliens, or descendants of aliens. The Anglican communion is represented by three military chaplains, stationed respectively at Corfu, Ceplialonia, and Zante. Titles of Honour. —About fifty Ionian families enjoy the title of Count , con¬ ferred on their ancestors hi former days by the Yenetians for civil or military services. The English Order of St. Michael and St. George was founded for the express purpose of decorating distinguished Ionians and Maltese, and such British subjects as should have filled high offices in those islands. The principal Public Institutions are established at Corfu. Such are—the Penitentiary, lately constructed on a plan which admits of the introduction of the most approved systems of classification and prison discipline; the Lunatic Asylum, in the suburb of San Rocco, near the Penitentiary; the civil Infirmary, Foundling Hospital, Poor-house, &c. Education. —An annual sum exceeding 10,000?. is applied to purposes of edu¬ cation. Primary schools have been established in all the chief villages ; and in each island there is also a Secondary or grammar school, supported by Govern¬ ment. A University was founded at Corfu, in 1823, by the late Earl of Guild¬ ford, an enthusiastic Philhellene, where lectures are delivered and degrees con¬ ferred in the four faculties of theology, law, medicine, and arts. Attached to the University is the Seminary already mentioned, and a Collegiate School. A small collection of antiquities is preserved in the basement story of the Uni¬ versity, which occupies a building at the southern end of the Esplanade, for¬ merly a Venetian barrack. There is also a tolerably good Library in the University. The number of students attending these various public institutions amounts (1853) to about 6000. There are also several private schools in each of the islands. The character of the Ionian population has been summed up as follows by General Sir Charles Napier, who was Resident in Cephalonia for several years :— “ However full of faults the Ionians may be, I maintain that they have not more than might be expected from the corruptness of the Venetian domination, from those human frailties winch are so conspicuous in small societies, and from a natural vehemence of character which distinguishes the Greek people ; but, on the other hand, they are endowed with virtues that are no less prominent. If they have received much evil from education, they have received much good from nature; and I found more of the latter than the state of society led me to expect. The richer classes are lively and agreeable in their manners ; and, among the men, many are well-informed. The women possess both beauty and wit in abundance, but their education has been, generally speaking, much neg¬ lected, The poor are not less industrious than other southern nations ; and an extraordinary degree of intelligence characterises all ranks. A spirit of com¬ mercial enterprise distinguishes the hardy mountaineers of Cephalonia; they are full of pleasant humour and vivacity; and their resemblance to the Irish people is striking in everything but their sobriety; for, though the Cephalonian labourer drinks freely of the potent wines, which his mountains so abundantly produce, yet a drunken man is seldom to be seen, and, amongst the rich, in¬ ebriety is unknown. Such is the character of the people with whom I have passed the most pleasant years of my life.”—Napier’s Colonies, London, 1833. In the same work Sir Charles Napier enlarges on the great importance to England of the occupation of this interesting dependency :—“ The Ionian Islands possess a central position, being surrounded by countries undergoing d3 Sect. L 58 2. CLIMATE, SOIL, ETC. great political changes, in which changes England, right or wrong, will inter¬ fere ; with which countries she drives a considerable traffic, and among which she of centimes has waged, and may again wage war. We see that the Ionian Islands are midway between England and the Persian Gulf; are two-thirds of the way to the Red Sea. They are conveniently situated to communicate with all parts of the Levant; they block up the mouth of the Adriatic Sea. Con¬ stantinople, Smyrna, Alexandria, Tripoli, Tunis, Malta, Syracuse, ISaples, Leg¬ horn, Genoa, Ancona, Yenice, Trieste, form a belt of great towns around them at no very unequal distances : a steamboat could go from the Ionian Islands to any one of those great commercial cities in about 60 or 80 hours; in short, a steamer from the Islands can reach large cities in Asia, in Europe, and in Africa, within a few hours’ time. They are central to these three continents, and they bear strongly on the lines of the Mediterranean commerce.” The English garrison of the Ionian Islands averages about 3000 men of all arms, of which number two-thirds are usually quartered at Corfu, while the remainder is dispersed in detachments in the southern islands. The annual expense of this force to the Imperial treasury may be estimated at nearly 150,0002. The mili¬ tary contribution due from the Ionian treasury, according to the provisions of the treaty of Paris, is now fixed at 25,000Z. per annum; but this sum has never been very regularly paid. Besides its importance as a military station, and as a commercial entrepot , it is to be remembered that the possession of Corfu is as essential to the safeguard of the route to India by Trieste, as is Malta to the safety and convenience of that by Marseilles. In short, it may be said of this celebrated island as Burke said of Gibraltar, that it is “ a post of power, a post of superiority, of connexion, of commerce—one which makes us invaluable to our friends and dreadful to our enemies.” 2. Climate, Soil, &c. The Climate of the Ionian Islands is generally temperate, hut subject to sudden changes. Their winter is rather too rainy and their summer is rather too hot, hut their spring and autumn are delicious. The average range of the thermo¬ meter is from 44° to 91° Fahrenheit; the annual average of rainy days is little short of 100. It is not, however, from variations in the barometer and thermo¬ meter that the climate can at all he appreciated, the most minute registers often failing to account for the sensations which are communicated to the feelings by the various winds ; and a stranger must have resided some time in the islands to be able to describe or even imagine them. The Scirocco, which blows from the south-east— “ rabies Noti Quo non arbiter Adriee Major, tollere sen ponere vult freta”— is the most depressing and disagreeable. Frost is rare ; and snow seldom falls except on the tops of the hills. ' Hurricanes (called here lorascas) are frequent; as are also earthquakes, especially in Zante and Santa Maura. These islands have, generally speaking, rugged irregular coasts, and a very uneven surface. Their geological formation is mainly limestone, intermixed with grey gypsum, and masses of sandstone; and there are few organic remains. The soil is more favourable for olives and vines than for com, which is chiefly imported from the shores of the Black Sea. More than three-fourths of the surface available for tillage is laid out in currant-grounds, vineyards, and olive- plantations. Cattle and sheep are imported in numbers from Greece and Albania. Agriculture is not very far advanced, especially in Corfu, owing in great measure to the minute divisions of property. The land is principally m the hands of small proprietors, who let it out to the peasantry on the metayer Ionian Islands. 3 . PACKETS.- 4. MONEY. 59 system, receiving a stipulated portion of the produce as rent. The people of the southern islands are more industrious than the Gorfiots, partly because they are encouraged by the gentry residing on their estates during some part of each year; whereas in Corfu, the taste for a town life, universal under the Venetian regime, still exercises some influence. The Corfiot proprietor has hitherto resided but little in his country-house ; and his land has been neglected, while he has continued in the practice of his forefathers, who preferred watching opportunities at the seat of a corrupt government to improving their fortunes by the more legitimate means of honourable exertion and attention to their patrimony. In this respect, however, as in so many others, a material change for the better has taken place within the last thirty years. The Ionians possess no manufactures of importance. A little soap is exported from Zante; and earthenware, silk, blankets, and goat-hair carpets are also made to some extent in the islands. The wives of the peasants spin and weave a coarse kind of woollen cloth, sufficient for the use of their families. Some pretty jewellery is made in the towns, especially rings and brooches exhibiting the emblems of the seven islands, as found on ancient coins and medals. 3. Packets. For an account of the Austrian Steamers from Trieste, &c., and of the English Steamers to and from Malta, see General Introduction, b. The quickest communication between England and Corfu is by Trieste: letters, &c., can arrive by this route in six days from London. There are post-offices in all the islands. That at Corfu is near the Waterport. The Austrian Steamers keep up a communication about twice a week between Corfu, Cephalonia, and Zante. A Steamer belonging to the Ionian government calls at Paxo, Santa Mama, and Ithaca once a fortnight or oftener, but visits Cerigo only once in three or four months. Sailing-boats can always he hired in all the islands for excursions among them, or to the mainland. (See General Introduction, h .) 4. Money. The money in general circulation in the Ionian Islands is :— Gold Coins .—British Sovereigns and Half-sovereigns. Silver .—British Crowns and Half-crowns, Shillings, and Sixpences. Threepences—coined in England for Ionian circulation—with the figure of Britannia on one side, and the winged lion of St. Mark on the other. s. d. Spanish Pillar dollar ( Colonnato ) =4 4 Mexican and South American dollar = 4 4 Austrian and Venetian dollar =4 2 French 5-franc piece =4 0 Copper .—British Pence and Halfpence, and Ionian farthings and hall- farthings, called obols. In the Ionian Islands, as elsewhere in the Levant, bargains are generally made in Spanish dollars. There is an Ionian Bank established at Corfu, with branches at Cephalonia and Zante. The principal direction is at 6, Great Winchester Street, London, where letters of credit are granted to most of the principal towns in Europe. The Ionian Bank-notes are printed in Greek, Italian, and English, and are current in all the Seven Islands. They can be changed at Athens and Patras, but not elsewhere in Greece. 60 6. INNS AND ACCOMMODATION FOR TRAVELLERS, ETC. Sect. I. 5. Shops, Servants, &c. There are a few English shopkeepers and tradesmen at Corfu. Mr. J. W. Taylor , on the Esplanade, is a well-known agent, &c., and will hire lodgings and servants, and make all other arrangements. It has been already stated, that it wiE be the better course for travellers to make Athens their head-quarters ; but those who prefer to begin their journey on the mainland from Corfu, must pro¬ cure their travelling equipage and hire a servant, to act as guide, and interpreter, before leaving that island (see General Introduction, A, j .). Among the many individuals who will offer themselves, the traveller should engage no one who is not well recommended by his previous employers, for much of the comfort of his journey will depend on his selection. It is absolutely necessary that the servant chosen should be thoroughly acquainted with the districts to be visited, and be possessed of perfect knowledge of the places where horses are to be hired and lodgings procured, of the people, the roads, the distances, &c. He should be able to speak Albanian as well as Greek and Italian. He should likewise understand cooking, and be capable of taking upon himself the trouble and responsibility of making bargains and purchasing everything that is required. The person selected should be strong, active, and able to undergo great fatigue. The usual wa^es for a good servant are one dollar a day, exclusive of board. Many will go for less, and some will even demand more ; it is never wise or, in the end, economical, to take an inferior servant, and be perpetually annoyed by his blunders, ignorance, and delays (see pp. 14-17). 6. Inns, and Accommodation for Travellers, &c. A first-rate Hotel is much wanted at Corfu: the best is now The Club, which is better than its outward appearance would seem to warrant. Other inns are La. Bella Venezia, and II Cavallo Bianco. Saddle-horses may be hired at Corfu for about a dollar a day ; if taken for a week or a month, the charge diminishes in proportion. Carriages may likewise be engaged in the same manner. There is a small inn at Argostoli, the chief town of Cephaloma; and another in Zante ; but there are no inns in the smaller islands, though .lodgings may be procured in them all. As a general rule, travellers, before, visiting the southern islands, should endeavour to procure letters of introduction to the Residents, and to some of the English officers quartered there. . There is a Theatre at Corfu, where Italian operas are given during the winter, and plays and amateur representations at other seasons. There are also small theatres at Argostoli and Zante. _ . ..... .... At Corfu, there is an excellent Garrison Library m a building adjoining the Palace. Strangers can be introduced by any member for one month, and wall find English newspapers and periodicals, besides the best works. of history and science respecting the Ionian Islands and Greece. The hospitality of the mess- tables in this, as in all other military stations, is unbounded. British subjects will have no trouble about their luggage or passports on landing at Corfu. Gentlemen usually wait on the Lord High Commissioner soon after their arrival; or, at least, leave their names and address at the Palace. Ionian Islands. 1. CORCYRA (CORFU). 61 Routes and Descriptions 1. CORCYRA (COREU) .* It may safely be asserted, without prejudice to the poetical fame of Ithaca, that of all the Ionian Islands, Corcyra, or Corfu (an Italian corruption of Kopufu, the Byzantine name for the island, de¬ rived from the two peaks, or xoou(pa.l, on which the citadel is now built), is the one which in all ages has played the most important part on the stage of history. From the peculiar character of its beautiful scenery and delightful climate, it forms a connecting link be¬ tween the East and the West, like Ma¬ deira between the Old World and the Hew. Its geographical position on the high road of navigation between Greece and Italy has made Corcyra a possession of very great importance both in ancient and in modern times. “ Here (Thucy¬ dides, vi. 42) was passed in review that splendid armament which was destined to perish at Syracuse—the Moscow of Athenian ambition. Here—400 years later—the waters of Actimn saw a world lost and won. Here again, after the lapse of sixteen centuries, met together those Christian Powers which off Le- panto dealt to the Turkish fleet—so long the scourge and terror of Europe —a blow from which it has never re¬ covered.” But our space will allow us to draw only an outline of the glories of Corfu—the seat of government in these regions under both the Venetians and the English—and for so many ages one of the main outposts of Christen¬ dom. The ancients universally regarded Corcyra as identical with the Homeric Scheria (derived, perhaps, from the Phoenician schara, commerce), where the enterprising and sea-loving Phaeacians dwelt, governed by their King Alcinous. The island is said also to have been called from its shape Drepane( or the Sickle; it describes a curve, the * For an account of the inns, shops, &c. of Corfu, see p. 60, under 5 and 6. OE THE SEVERAL ISLANDS. convexity of which is towards the W.; its length from N.W. to S.E. is about 40 miles ; the breadth is greatest in the H., where it is nearly 20 miles, but it gradually tapers towards its S. ex¬ tremity. The historical name of Cor¬ cyra appears first in Herodotus. About B.c. 734 a colony was planted here by the Corinthians; and that maritime activity for which the Corcyreeans were afterwards celebrated may have partly arisen from the fusion of the Dorians with the original inhabitants. Homer states that the Phseacians had come from Sicily ; but it seems probable that they were a branch of the Liburnians, that enterprising and sea-faring people who long continued to occupy the more northerly islands in the Adriatic along the Dalmatian and Illyrian shores. Corcyra soon became rich and powerful by its extensive commerce, and founded many colonies on the neighbouring mainland, such as Epidamnus, Apol- lonia, Leucas, and Anactorium. So rapid was their prosperity that the colonists soon became formidable rivals of their mother-country; and about b.c. 665 a battle was fought between their fleets, which is memorable as the most ancient sea-fight on record. Cor¬ cyra appears to have been subjugated by Periander (Herod. III. 49, seq.), but to have soon recovered its independence. During the Persian war the Corcyrseans are statedby Herodotus (vii. 168) to have played false to the national cause, and their names did not appear on the glo¬ rious muster-roll of Salamis. At a later period Corcyra, by invoking the aid of Athens against the Corinthians, became one of the proximate causes of the Pelo¬ ponnesian war. During the progress of that contest her political power and importance were irretrievably ruined, in consequence of the fierce factions and civil dissensions which agitated the island, and in which both the aristo- cratical and popular parties were guilty of the most horrible atrocities. It has Sect. I. 62 1. CORCYRA (CORFU). been truly observed, that “ it was the state of parties and of pohtics at Corcyra that the greatest of ancient historians made the subject of a solemn disquisi¬ tion, considering that they were a type of the general condition of Greece at the period of the Peloponnesian war, and that the picture which he then drew of his countrymen belongs, in its main outlines, to all ages and nations. He who would discuss that most inter¬ esting problem, the state and prospects of the Modern Greeks, can hardly do wrong in adopting for his observations the same basis as Thucydides.” For some generations after the Pelo¬ ponnesian war the fortunes of Corcyra were various. Though it appears never to have recovered its former political consequence, a gorgeous picture of the fertility and opulence of the island in B.C. 373 has been drawn by Xenophon (IPellen., vi. 2). When it was invaded in that year by the Spartans under Mnasippus, it is represented as being in the highest state of cultivation and full of the richest produce; with fields admirably tilled, and vineyards in sur¬ passing condition; with splendid farm- buildings, well-appointed wine-cellars, and abundance of cattle. The hostile soldiers, we are told, while enriching themselves by their depredations, be¬ came so pampered with the plenty around them that they refused to drink any wine that was not of the first quality. At a later period the island was alternately seized by the Spartans, the Athenians, and the Macedonians. King Pyrrhus, of Epirus, occupied it during his Italian wars; and it finally fell under the Roman dominion b.c. 229. From its situation near Bran- disium and Dyrrachium—the Dover and Calais of the ancients — Corcyra was frequently visited by illustrious Romans. Here Augustus assembled his fleet before the battle of Actium, and we have notices of the presence of Ti¬ bullus, Cato, and of Cicero, whose friend Atticus possessed large estates on the opposite coast of Epirus—probably in the plain of Butrinto, now so much resorted to by English shooting-parties. The last mention of Corcyra in the an¬ cient authors seems to have been that by Suetonius, who relates that the Em¬ peror Nero, on his way to Greece, sang and danced before the altar of Jupiter at Cassiope. Henceforward there is little notice of Corfu until the times of the Crusades, when its geographical position caused it to be greatly frequented. Robert Guiscard seized the island in a.d. 1081, during his wars with the Eastern Em¬ pire ; and another great Norman Grief, Richard I. of England, landed here on his return from the Holy Land in a.d. 1193. After remaining in the island for some time, he continued his voyage to Ragusa, whence proceeding by land to¬ wards his dominions, he was made cap¬ tive by the Duke of Austria. During the decline of the Empire, Corfu underwent many changes of for¬ tune, being sometimes in the hands of the Greek Emperors, sometimes in those of various Latin princes, particularly of the House of Anjou, then governing Naples, and always exposed to the in¬ cursions of freebooters and pirates. At length, in A.D. 1386, the inhabitants sent a deputation to Yenice to implore the protection of that Republic, under whose sovereignty they remained until its downfall in a.d. 1797. VVe have already drawn an outline of the political con¬ dition of the lonians under Venetian rule, and of their subsequent fortunes until placed under the British Protec¬ torate. Venice made Corfu her princi¬ pal arsenal and 'point d'appui in Greece, and surrounded the town with exten¬ sive and massive fortifications, which set at defiance the whole power of the Ottomans in the assaults of 1537 and 1570 and, above all, in the celebrated siege of 1716, remarkable as the last great attempt of the Turks to extend their conquests in Christendom. On this occasion the Republic was fortunate in its selection as Commandant at Corfu of Marshal Scliulemberg, a brave and skilful German soldier of fortune, who had served under Prince Eugene and the King of Saxony. While directing the retreat of a division of the Saxon 63 1. CORCYRA (CORFU). Ionian Islands. army before tbe Swedes, be bad for¬ merly extricated himself, when appa¬ rently lost, by throwing his forces over the river Oder—a manoeuvre which drew from Charles XII. himself the exclamation, “ Schulemberg has con¬ quered us to-day!” A statue of the Marshal, erected by the grateful Senate of Venice, stands on the esplanade at Corfu, m front of the gate of the Citadel. The Turkish fleet of 60 ships-of-war and a number of smaller vessels appeared before the place on July 5th, 1716; they were commanded by the Capitan-Pasha or Lord High Admiral of the Empire in person; while the Seraskier or General- in-Chief led on the army of 30,000 picked troops, which was ferried across by the boats of the fleet from Butrinto to Govino. On July 8, the Venetian fleet entered the north channel, and by saluting the Yirgin of Cassopo gave notice of their approach to the Turks, who might otherwise have been taken at a disadvantage. During the subse¬ quent siege, neither party felt suffi¬ ciently strong to force on a sea-fight, but stood, as it were, at bay, the Ottoman vessels stretching across from Butrinto to Govino, and the Venetians from Yido to Sayada. On July 16, the Seraskier established his head-quarters at Potamo, and laid waste the country far and wide, the pea¬ santryhaving mostly taken refuge within the walls of the town. The garrison amounted to 5000 men, chiefly Ger¬ mans, Slavonians, and Italians. The Turks erected batteries on Mount Oli- vetto, above the suburb of Manduchio, on August 1, and, after several failures, carried Mount Abraham by assault on August 3. Their advanced works were then abandoned by the besieged, when the Turks pushed their approaches through the suburb of Castrades, and closely invested the town. For several days there were frequent assaults by the Infidels and sorties of the Christians, with heavy loss on both sides, the inha¬ bitants, including, it is said, even the priests and the women, fighting along with the soldiers on the ramparts and in the trenches. An hour before day¬ break on August 19 the Turks made then grand assault, and effected a lodg¬ ment in Scarponi, an outwork of Fort JSTeuf. Schulemberg then headed a sally in person, and after a desperate contest drove them from this vantage-ground with immense loss. In the night of the 22nd they retreated to Govino, re-embarked, and sailed away to Con¬ stantinople, where both the Admiral and General paid with their heads the penalty of then’ failure. The Turks abandoned in their trenches all their ammunition and stores, including 78 pieces of artillery; and they are stated to have lost, during the siege of 5 weeks, full half their army in action and by disease, for it was the most deadly period of a very unhealthy season. The Venetians lost 2000 out of then* gar¬ rison of 5000 men. An excellent ac¬ count of the Siege of Corfu in 1716 will be found in the Corps Papers of the Royal Engineers, vol. i., pp. 262-272. The first approach to Corfu, whether from the north or the south, is extremely striking. The south channel will be de¬ scribed hereafter (Section II., Boute 1). From the north, the traveller sails close under those “ Thunder-cliffs of fear, The Acroceraunian mountains of old fame ”— an uninterrupted chain of lofty moun¬ tains, rising abruptly from the very brink of the sea in precipitous cliffs or rugged declivities, and terminating in craggy peaks, capped with snow during nine months in the year. Here and there an Albanian hamlet hangs like a snow-wreath on the mountain-side. Wherever there is a break in the heavy masses of cloud which robe so often the further summits of the Pindus range, and the sun of Greece tints them at mid-day with golden, at even with rosy radiance, the mind delights to figure to itself, far away amid those dim myste¬ rious crags, the region of the “ wintry Dodona,” now shorn, indeed, of its ancient sanctity and honour, but still tenanted, as in Homer’s time, by a race “ with unwashed feet and sleeping on the ground.” (II., xvi. 235.) As we advance, the coast of Corfu 64 Sect. I. 1. CORCYRA (CORFU). rises to the southward, presenting a long swelling mountain-ridge, “ Spread like a shield upon the dark blue sea.” Od. v. 281. The outlines of the island are very graceful; and its surface is a dark mass of luxuriant groves of olive, cypress, and ilex. The eastern extremity of the mountain-ridge of San Salvador (the Istone of the ancients, but now called by the Greeks n avroxpavaf) projects within 2 miles of the mainland. On the right the vessel passes the ruined walls of the mediseval fortress of Cassopo, erected on the site of the Hellenic city of Cassiope; on the left opens the plain or valley of Butrinto, the ancient Bu- tlxrotum, where iEneas was entertained by his kinsman Helenns. On clearing this strait, the sea again expands into an open gulf between the two coasts, and the citadel and town of Corfu appear in sight, forming the centre of an amphi¬ theatre of rich and varied scenery. In front, the green slopes of the islet of Yido, crowned with extensive lines of fortifications, all bristling with cannon, form a breakwater for the harbour. Behind, the promontory on which the town is built terminates to the eastward in the citadel, built on a huge insulated rock, with its summit split into two lofty peaks, the aerim Thaacwm arces of Virgil (Mn., hi. 291), from which the modem name of the island is de¬ rived. The hoary cliff is bound round with forts and batteries, while its base is strewn with white houses and bar¬ racks, perched like sea-fowl, wherever they can find a resting-place. The ram¬ parts and bastions mingle with Nature’s own craggy fortifications, mantled by a profusion of cactuses, evergreens, and wild flowers. Across the bay, the Albanian coast presents now a less rugged aspect. The ridges of snowy mountains retire fur¬ ther into the distance, while the hills in the immediate vicinity of the sea offer, by their bleak but varied landscape, a fine contrast to the richly wooded and cultivated shores of the island. In the general view of the town, the Palace of the Lord High Commissioner stands out among the other buildings as pro¬ minently as did that of King Alcinous of old ;—“ a child might point the way.” (Od., vi. 300.) The channel which separates Corfu from Albania varies in breadth from 2 to 12 miles, and appears one noble lake from the harbour, whence its outlets are not visible. It certainly affords one of the most beautiful and stirring specta¬ cles in the world. Its northern extre¬ mity narrows until it is lost among lofty mountains, swelling each over each like the waves of the stormy ocean; while, gradually widening as it extends to the southward, it spreads round the indentations and promontories of the fair and fertile island. But the whole forms a scene which addresses itself to the eye and to the heart rather than to the ear. The memory of those who have once beheld it will long carry a vivid impres¬ sion, which they will find it hard to describe in adequate language. The ordinary landing-place is at the Health Office Mole, but there is another for man-of-war and yacht boats in the ditch of the citadel, whence a flight of steps leads immediately to the es¬ planade, enlivened by the parades and reviews of the British garrison. Here many an English traveller has felt senti¬ ments akin to those so well expressed in some verses written on arriving at Gibraltar:— “ England! we love thee better than we knowt This did I learn when, after wanderings long ’Mid people of another stock and tongue, I heard at length thy martial music blow, And saw thy warrior-children to and fro Pace, keeping watch before those mighty gates, Which, like twin giants, watch the Herculean Straits.” The esplanade occupies the space be¬ tween the town and the citadel, and is laid out with walks and avenues of trees. On its northern verge stands the Palace, or Government House, of white Maltese stone, ornamented with a colonnade in front, and flanked by the two Gates of St. Michael and St. George, each of which frames a lovely picture of the sea and mountains. The Palace was erected under the adminis¬ tration of Sir Thomas Maitland, and Ionian Islands. Go 1. CORCYRA (CORFU). contains, besides the town residence of the Lord High Commissioner, a suite of excellent ball-rooms, and the offices of the Chief Secretary, and of the Senate. The casino, or villa of the Lord High Commissioner, was built by Sir Fred¬ erick Adam in a beautiful situation, about a mile to the south of the town. At the southern extremity of the esplanade is a terrace overhanging the sea, a little circular temple erected in memory of Sir Thomas Maitland, and an obelisk in honour of Sir Howard Douglas. There is also a statue of Sir Frederick Adam in front of the Palace, and of Marshal Schulemberg in front of the drawbridge which leads into the citadel. To the west, the side of the esplanade next the town is bounded by a lofty row of private houses with an arched walk beneath them. The stranger in Corfu had better de¬ vote his first hour of leisure to inspect¬ ing the splendid panoramic view of the town and island presented from the summit of the citadel. Immediately at his feet, and within the drawbridge, he will see the residences of the General in command, and of some of the other principal officers of the garrison, besides barracks, powder-magazines, the mili¬ tary hospital, ordnance stores, &c. The Garrison Church is a large building, with a Grecian portico, at the south side of the citadel. The ramparts are of various ages ; some of them dating as far back as a.d. 1550. At the oppo¬ site, or western extremity of the town, rises another fortress, erected by the Venetians at the end of the sixteenth century, and still generally known as Fort Neuf or La n Fortezza Nuova. The hill on which it is built is less lofty and precipitous than that of the citadel. The fire of these two fortresses, and that from the island of Vido, efficiently protect the harbour. Vido cannot be visited except in company of an officer of the garrison, or with a pass from one of the military authorities. The fortifi¬ cations on it have been erected by the English at a great cost. After their completion the greater part of the very extensive lines and outworks which had been raised by the Venetians around the town, on the land side, were demo¬ lished, as they would have required a garrison of 10,000 men to defend them effectually. They are now in process of being remodelled on a more simple plan. The town, including its suburbs of Manduchio to the W. and Castrddes (called in Greek Tapir^u) to the S., con¬ tains 20,000 inhabitants, about a third of the population of the whole island. There are 4000 Latins, with an arch¬ bishop of their own, and 5000 Jews, which latter live in a separate quarter of the town; the remainder of the people belong to the Greek Church. The ca¬ thedral, dedicated to Our Lady of the Cave ('H n tzvayia. ’S.^nXiururcra), is situ¬ ated on the Line-wall, not far from Fort Neuf. There is a great number of other churches, the most remarkable being that of St. Spiridion, the Patron- Saint of Corfu, whose body is preserved in a richly ornamented case. The an¬ nual offerings at this shrine amount to a considerable sum, and are the pro¬ perty of a noble Corfiot family, to whom the church belongs. Three times a year the body of the Saint is carried in solemn procession around the esplanade, fol¬ lowed by the Greek clergy and all the native authorities. The sick are some¬ times brought out and laid where the Saint may be carried over them. The Lord High Commissioner, and all the English functionaries and officers of the garrison, were formerly obliged to follow in these processions, bearing wax can¬ dles, with the bands of the regiments attending; but of late years only a royal salute has been fired from the citadel. St. Spiridion was bishop of a see in Cyprus, and was one of the Fathers of the Council of Nice in A.D. 325. After his death his embalmed body was believed to have wrought many miracles. Various and contra¬ dictory accounts have been given of the cause and manner of its conveyance to Corfu. The town has undergone great im¬ provements during the last 30 years, but it is still cramped and confined, like 66 Sect. I. 1. CORCYRA (CORFU). most fortified places. The main streets have been widened, sanitary regulations have been enforced, markets have been built, an efficient police organised here (and throughout the islands), new roads and approaches have been constructed, especially the Strada Marina round the bay of Castrades, which now forms one of the most charming public pro¬ menades in Europe. Above all, a co¬ pious supply of water, of which the town was formerly destitute, has been brought in pipes from a source above Benizze—a distance of 7 miles. The suburbs were formerly richly planted with olive and mulberry trees, but they were cut down by the French in order to clear a space before the fortifications, and their removal is supposed to have contributed in some degree to the im¬ proved salubrity; fevers, however, are still prevalent in autumn, though they are rarely of a malignant character. Dr. Wordsworth has truly remarked that Corfu is a sort of geographical mosaic to which many countries of Europe have contributed colours. The streets are Italian in their style and name; the arcades, by which some of them are flanked, might have come from Padua or Bologna; the winged Lion of St. Mark is seen marching in stone along the old Venetian bastions; a stranger will hear Italian from the native gentry, English from the garrison, Greek from the peasants, Arabic from the Maltese grooms and gardeners ; Albanian from the white-kilted mountaineers of the opposite coast. He may see Ionian venders haggling with Scotch or Irish soldiers for how much they are to re¬ ceive for their wares in Greek obols, bearing the Venetian lion on one side and Britannia with her aegis on the other —no bad epitome of the modern history of the island, and forming a curious addition to the silver records which tell what Corfu was in past ages. The prow of a ship, a Triton striking with his trident, a galley in full sail, the gardens of Alcinous, and a Bacchus crowned with ivy—these are some of the mone¬ tary memorials of the ancient power, commerce, and fertility of Corcyra. We have the authority of Thucydides for the identity of Corcyra with the Scheria or Pbseacia of Homer; but it is impossible to draw a map of the Homeric island which shall coincide with the existing localities. Ulysses was brought to the island by a north wind, which would seem to mark Eano as Calypso’s isle. The only stream of any consequence is that which empties itself into the sea between Manduchio and Govino, while the tradition of the peasantry points to the Fountain of Cressida , a copious spring gushing out near the sea, 3 miles S.W. of the mo¬ dern town, as the spot where the nymph¬ like Nausicaeand her train of maidens received the suppliant Ulysses. She is the most interesting character in all ancient poetry ; and we turn away with repose and delight from the savage feuds and massacres of the Pelopon¬ nesian war to the contemplation of the fair daughter of Alcinous. But wherever may have been the Pbseacia of Homer, there can be no doubt but that the Corcyra of Thucy¬ dides occupied the peninsula between the channel and the Lagoon, now called Fake Calichiopulo, after a noble family of Corfu, and whose shores have been converted by the English into a race¬ course. Excavations in this direction everywhere produce sculptures, tombs (such as that of Menecrates, near the Strada Marina ), and other memorials of the past; and on a cliff over-hanging the sea, behind the Casino, are the re¬ mains of a small Doric temple, with the copious fountain of Cardachio below it. It is obvious from Thucydides (iii. 72) that Lake Calichiopulo is the Hyl- laio harbour, and the port of Castrades “ that opposite Fpirus." As Scylax (Per. 29) mentions three ports at Cor¬ cyra, it may be presumed that the present harbour was also used in ancient times. Vido may have been the Ptychia of Thucydides, though that islet is identified by some anti¬ quaries with the rock at the mouth of Lake Calichiopulo, and by others with the vast insulated crag on which the citadel is now built, and which Ionian Islands. 67 1. CORCYK -was probably a stronghold in all ages. Corfu is divided—for electoral pur¬ poses—into four districts. 1. Oros, or the Mountain, the most northern of all; 2. Agtru; 3. Mese (Italice Mezzo), or Midland; 4. Leucimne (Italice Lef- timo), the southern extremity of the island, so called from its white cliffs. All the prospects in Corfu present a union of a sea-view with a rich land¬ scape, for the water appears everywhere interlaced with the land. The roads are excellent, and all the principal villages can be reached in a carriage ; but the varied beauties of the island cannot be thoroughly appreciated except by those who have traced out on horseback some of the thousand-and-one bridle-paths which wind through the olive groves with the freedom of mountain streams. The general absence of hedges, and of almost all show of division of property, give the landscape a unity which is very pleasing to the eye. The olives of Corfu, it must be remembered, are not the pruned and trained fruit-trees of France and Italy, but picturesque and massive forest trees ; and their pale and quiver¬ ing foliage is relieved by dark groups of tall and tufted cypresses, appearing at a little distance hke the minarets of the East or the spires of a Gothic cathedral. The favourite and most frequented drive, ride, and walk at Corfu, is to what is called the One-gun-battery (from a cannon having formerly been placed there), situated above the en¬ trance to Lake Calichiopulo, 2f- miles S. of the town, and commanding a charming prospect. In the centre of the strait below, and crowned with a small chapel, is one of the islets (for there are two competitors) which claim to be the Ship of Ulysses, in allusion to the galley of the Phseacians, which on her return from having conveyed Ulysses to Ithaca was overtaken by the vengeance of Neptune, and changed into stone within sight of the port. (Od. xiii. 161.) “ Swift as the swallow sweeps the liquid way, The winged pinnace shot along the sea; The God arrests her with a sudden stroke. And roots her down an everlasting rock.” A (CORFU). The other competitor for this honom’ is an isolated rock off the N.W. coast of Corfu, and which certainly at a distance resembles much a petrified ship in full sail. It is visible from the pass of San Pantaleone. In the olive-groves, near the Chapel of the Ascension, on the summit of a hill, about half-way between the town and the One-gun-battery, is annually celebrated on Ascension-day a most in¬ teresting Greek festa, which the tra¬ veller should stay to see, even at the expense of some inconvenience. It will afford him an excellent opportunity of witnessing the performance of the Ro- maika or Pyrrhic dance, and of becom¬ ing acquainted with the picturesque costumes of the peasantry. There are three principal excursions, all over excellent carriage-roads, which will give a stranger a good general idea of the interior of Corfu. 1. To Paleocastrizza, 16 miles from the capital: as the name imports, an ancient fortress doubtless stood here formerly, on the ground now occupied by a convent of the middle ages, strongly situated on a steep rock impending over the Adriatic Sea. During the summer several English families generally in¬ habit a part of this monastery, and are received with great good feeling and hospitality by the monks. The beauty, quiet, and coolness of this residence are all delightful. The sea-bathing is excellent, and many charming excur¬ sions may be made in the immediate vicinity, as to the ruins of the Castle of St. Angelo, a medieeval fortress in a strong and romantic position. The road from the Capital to Paleocastrizza crosses the centre of the island, pass¬ ing (at 5 miles from the town) the bay of Govino, used by the Venetians as the harbour for their galleys and smaller craft. On the shore are the ruins of their arsenals, store-houses, &c. Thence the road strikes inland through a forest of venerable olives, until within two or three miles of the convent, when it is carried along the face of a hill covered with arbutus, myrtle, and evergreens of various kinds. Below a precipice 68 Sect. I. 1. CORCYRA (CORFU). falls sheer down to the Adriatic, studded with rocks and islets, and sparkling with those “ countless smiles ” (the vsrovTiav avydruv uvrifnUfAov yi\u,ffpia. of AEschylus), the full charm of which can he appreciated only by those who have seen southern waves flash up in a southern sun. 2. The pass of Pantaleone (13 miles from the town) is the Simplon of Corfu, and the highest point of the road which is carried over the mountain-chain of San Salvador. It is the only carriage- road to, and commands a splendid prospect over the northern district of Corfu, the islands of Fano, Merlera, Salmatraki, and the second insulated rock which claims to he the ship of Ulysses. A favourite spot for English pic-nics is under a huge oak-tree, 3 miles to the north of the pass. 3. The pass of Q-aruna (8 miles) affords a like view over the southern districts of the island; and is also very striking, though not so elevated as that of San Pantaleone. These three excursions should by no means be omitted; others almost equally picturesque are—to Benizze (7 miles) ; to PelleTca (7 miles) ; and to the village of Santa Decca (8 miles), situated on the slope of the mountain of the Ten Saints ( Ay an A'eaa, corrupted into Santa Decca), the second in height in the island. The road to Leftimo (the ancient Leudmne ), the southern dis¬ trict of Corfu (26 miles), passes through Santa Decca. The island terminates in a white cliff, called Cavo Bianco by the Italians, a translation of Leucimne. From CapeBianco to the Sybota Islands, close to the coast of Epirus, the south¬ ern entrance to the channel of Corfu is about 5 miles across. The mountain of San Salvador (Is- tone) rises about 3000 feet above the sea, and is the highest point in the island, forming a striking object from the town. The best way to ascend it is to cross the bay (a distance of 8 or 10 miles) in a sailing or row-boat, and land either at Karagol, or a little to the eastward of the village of Ipso, where horses or mules may be procured, and a guide to tbe Convent which crowns the summit. The path rises by a steep ascent through olive woods, and then over the barren and rocky moun¬ tain side. Before reaching the small village of Signies, are passed several deep wells, round which the shepherds assemble their flocks. Here too, as at the other fountains of Greece, may generally be seen groups of the peasant women, who give an Oriental charm to the scene with their long flowing dra¬ pery, and ample folds of white linen, falling over their heads and shoulders. It is a toilsome ascent from Signies to the Convent, which is not inhabited by the Monks, except at certain festivals. A pilgrimage is made to this shrine every year on the anniversary of tbe Transfiguration (August 6—18) ; and the going up of the people to the “ high place ” is a very pretty sight. The view from the summit is magni¬ ficent. In clear weather the coast of Italy is just visible above the horizon to the N.W.; while to the E., the eye ranges along the chain of the Acro- ceraunian mountains, and penetrates far into the interior of Albania, command¬ ing tbe castle and plain of Butrinto, with its two lakes and river, and several villages picturesquely scattered over the hills. To the S., the channel, city, and whole island of Corfu are stretched out like a map, with Paxo and Santa Mama in the distance. Off the N.W. coast of Corfu are her three island dependencies of Fano (Othonus), Merlera (Ericiisa), and Sal¬ matraki, containing altogether about 1800 inhabitants, a peaceful and in¬ dustrious race, exporting annually olive oil, honey, grapes, &c. A serjeant and about a dozen English soldiers de¬ tached from Corfu keep garrison in Fano, which would be an important look-out station in time of war, if it possessed a good harbour. A fine sea- cavern is of course pointed out as Ca¬ lypso’s Grotto by the islanders to every stranger: it is now frequented by seals and wild pigeons. Fano is visited by the English chiefly in the spring, for the purpose of shooting quails, which Ionian Islands. 1 . corcyrj abound there during the annual mi¬ gration. Some account of the shooting at Corfu is required in this work, as so many Englishmen now visit the island every winter in search of it. Snipes and wild fowl are found in considerable numbers during the winter in the Val di Roppa, a marshy valley 7 miles in¬ land from the town. Woodcocks are also killed in all parts of the island, and are generally sold in the market for a few pence each. Hares are scarce, owing, partly, to the number of foxes and jackals. Santa Maura is the only one of the Ionian Islands where wolves are still found. But it is on the opposite coast of Albania that the really good shooting is to be had. Butrinto , Kataito, and Livitazza (at the mouth of the river Xalamas, or Thyamis) are the best- grounds for snipes, woodcocks, and wild-fowl of all kinds; and Btelid and Ragania for deer and wild boars;— which latter are also found on the Sghota (i.e. Swine Islands), two wooded and uninhabited rocks at the southern entrance of the channel. In Corfu they are now generally called Murto, from an Albanian hamlet on the neighbouring shore; but they are celebrated under their classical name on account of the action between the Corcyreeans and Corinthians fought off their shores in the year before the beginning of the Peloponnesian War. There is a shel¬ tered bay between the two principal Sybota, and another between the inner island and the mainland. The neigh¬ bouring village occupies apparently the site of the place which Thucydides calls “the continental Sybota,” and where the Corinthians erected a trophy after the sea-fight, while the Corcyrseans, who equally claimed the victory, set up their trophy at the “ insular Sybota” {Thucyd., i. 54); “ whence,” says Colonel Leake, “ it would seem that there were villages of that name on either side of the inner strait or harbour.” It must be borne in mind that Turkey is always held by the Christian Powers in that state which the Health-Offices L (CORFU). 69 of the Levant call contumacy (con- tumacia)—that is to say, all intercourse with its coast is subject to a quarantine of greater or less duration according to its reputed sanitary condition for the time being. This restriction never ceases entirely, owing to the general neglect of strict quarantine regulations by the Turks'—a consequence of then’ ideas of fatalism. In ordinary times, however, all persons from Corfu who have secured the escort of a guardiano, or Health- Officer, who is answerable for then’ not coming into contact with the natives, or with any “ susceptible ” substance, are allowed to disembark in Albania and range at liberty in the open country. Thus scarcely a day elapses iu winter without two or three shooting-parties crossing over; and there is a great charm in the wildness and variety of the sport and of the scenery. There is no danger whatever in these excur¬ sions; for any serious outrage would be certain to be severely punished by the Turkish authorities, who are always eager to conciliate the English Govern¬ ment, to whose good offices they owe so much—while against petty aggres¬ sions the double-barreled guns of the sportsmen themselves are a sufficient- protection. The few shepherds occa¬ sionally fallen in with, sometimes make urgent entreaties for baruti, or gun¬ powder—a present most acceptable to them ; and stories are told of cases hav¬ ing occurred where petitions for such favours have been presented after the fashion of the beggar in ‘ Gil Bias,’ with the cap in one hand and the musket in the other. Even the tales of such cases, however, are very rare, if we consider the savage character of Albania and of its inhabitants—how little Englishmen are distinguished for the art of con¬ ciliating foreigners, and how natural it would be that they should be viewed by the Albanian mountaineers rather in the light of poachers and marauders than of friendly visitors. The beautiful scenery of the Lake of Butrint-o is well worthy of a visit. It is connected with the bay (the Pelodes Lirnen, or Muddy Harbour of Strabo 70 Sect. I. 2. paxos (paxo). and Ptolemy) by a river about 3 miles long, and can be reached in a boat from Corfu without disembarking, and in less than 3 hours. The ruins of Bu- throtum occupy a rocky hill at the southern extremity of the lake. It is said to have been founded by Helenus, the son of Priam ; but the resemblance of the features of the surrounding country to those of the plain of Troy is a poetical invention of Virgil, and as visionary as the likeness of Monmouth andMacedon. Buthrotum had become a Homan colony as early as the time of Strabo; and fragments of the Roman walls still exist, mixed with remains both of later and of Hellenic masonry, showing that the city always occupied the same site. Two ruinous castles are the only relics of the station maintained by the Vene¬ tians during so many centuries at Bu- trinto. In one of them resides a petty Turkish officer, with some dozen ragged Albanian soldiers. This outpost of Islam is separated by a channel, only 9 miles in breadth, from the English garrison at Corfu ; and yet how widely distinct in manners, ideas, civilization, government, and religion, are the shores parted by that narrow channel! 2. Paxos (Paxo). This little island, which is hardly mentioned by the ancient writers, seems to have always followed the fortunes of its powerful neighbour Corcyra, from the southern extremity of which it is only about 8 miles distant. Though less than 5 miles in length and 2 miles in breadth, and containing a population of little more than 5000, Paxo forms one of the “ United States ” composing the Ionian confederacy, and possesses a Resident, Regent, municipal council, courts of law, Ac., of its own. A subaltern’s detachment from the Corfu garrison is always quartered here. The island is oval in shape, and moun¬ tainous ; its soil being so stony, and so destitute of moisture, that the in¬ habitants are sometimes obliged to de¬ pend for their supply of water on rain kept in tanks, or even to procure it from the neighbouring continent. The oil of Paxo is highly esteemed; and the island produces little else than olives, almonds, and vines, the quantity of corn raised being altogether insigni¬ ficant. The capital, or rather principal village, consists of a cluster of houses at Port Gaio, on the E. side opposite Albania. Tlieharbour is curiously formed by a small rocky islet, crowned with a fort, and sheltering a little creek which may be entered at both extremities. Immediately south of Paxo, and se¬ parated from it by a narrow channel, is the barren and rocky islet of Antipaxo, uninhabited except by a few shepherds and fishermen, but resorted to by the English in the season for shooting quails, which sometimes alight here in almost incredible numbers. The island of Paxo has been made an object of much interest by a legend recorded inPlutarch’s Defect of Oracles, and so well told in the words of the old annotator on Spenser’s Pastoral in May —“ Here, about the time that oiu’ Lord suffered his most bitter passion, certain persons sailing from Italy to Cyprus at night heard a voice calling aloud, Tliamus! Thamus ! who, giving ear to the cry, was bidden (for he was pilot of the ship), when he came near to Pelodes ” (the Bay of Butrinto) “ to tell that the great god Pan was dead; which he doubting to do, yet for that when he came to Pelodes there was such a calm of wind that the ship stood still in the sea unmoored, he was forced to cry aloud that Pan was dead; where¬ withal there were such piteous outcries and dreadful shrieking as hath not been the like. By which Pan, of some is understood the great Sathanas, whose kingdom was at that time by Christ conquered, and the gates of hell broken up; for at that time all oracles sm’- ceased, and enchanted spirits that were wont to delude the people henceforth held their peace.” The words in which Milton alludes to this legend in his Ode on the Nativity— “ The lonely mountains o’er, And the resounding shore, A voice of weeping heard and loud lament,”— Ionian Islands. 3 . cephaixenl; will recur to tlie memory of the English traveller as he sails—particularly if it be in the darkness of the night—by the island of Paxo. 3. Cephaxlenia (Cephalonia). This is the largest island in the Ionian Sea, and is situated opposite the coast of Acarnania and the entrance to the Corinthian Gulf. Along the northern half of the eastern shore of Cephalonia lies Ithaca, separated from it by a channel averaging less than five miles across; while the distance from the most southerly point in Cephalonia to the northernmost part of Zante is about eight miles. The size of this island has been variously stated by the ancient writers. Strabo (x. 2) asserts that it is 300 stadia, and Pliny (iv. 12, ed. Sillig) that it is 93 miles in circuit; but both these measurements are short of the real circumference, which is little less than 120 miles. The greatest length of the island is 31 English miles; its breadth is very unequal. Cephalonia is called in Homer Same or Samos ; which, perhaps, is putting the name of the then largest and most populous of its cities for the whole island; since the poet elsewhere uses the term Cephallenians for the inhabitants, whom be describes as the subjects of Ulysses (H, ii. 631; Od., iv. 671, &c.). They were probably of the same race with the Taphians who peopled the neighbouring islands, and they were fahled to have derived their appellation from Cephalus, who made himself master of the country by the help of Amphitryon. Cephallenia, as the name of the island, first occui’3 in Herodotus (ix. 28) ; in Italian, it is called Cefalonia; the English Cepha¬ lonia seems to be formed from the French Cephalonie. In the Persian war the Cephallenians are not recorded to have taken any part, with the exception of the inhabit¬ ants of Pale, 200 of whose citizens fought on the national side at Plat sea (Herod., ix. 28). At the commence¬ ment of the Peloponnesian war a large Athenian fleet visited the island, which L (cephalonia). 71 joined the Athenian alliance without offering any resistance (Thucyd., ii. 30). In the Roman wars in Greece, Cephal¬ lenia opposed the Romans, but was re¬ duced B.C. 189. Strabo informs us that C. Antonius possessed the whole island as his private estate. It was afterwards given by Hadrian to the Athenians; and then was subject to the Byzantine empire until the twelfth century, when it passed into the hands of various Latin princes, and finally under the rule of Yenice. It was captured from the French by the English expedition of 1809 ; since which period it has fol¬ lowed the fortunes of its neighbours. In ancient times there were four cities in Cephallenia, Pale, Cranii, Samos, and Proni; and remains still exist of them all. Pale was situated close to the sea, a little more than one mile north of the modern town of Lixhri, which has pro¬ bably been built in great part from its ruins. Little now remains, except a few scattered blocks and hewn stones, of the city which once successfully re¬ sisted the Macedonian arms (Polybius, v. 4), and which was identified by some ancient writers with Duhchium ;—an opinion which Strabo (x. 2) rejects, while Pausanias (Eliac., ii. 15) adopts it. The coins of Pale bear the head of the hero Cephalus with the epigraph riA or n aa. The city of the Cranii was situated on some rugged heights on the opposite side of the harbour from the modern town of Argostoli. Here the Messenians of Pylos were established by the Athe¬ nians, when that fortress was restored to the Spartans after the peace of Nicias (Thucyd., v. 35). The people of Cranii had previously repulsed an attack of the Lacedemonians at the beginning of the Peloponnesian war (Thucyd., ii. 34). There are still extant silver coins of this city with the epigraphs K««., Kw.>., and Kffxtu. The ancient walls were nearly three miles in circumference, and can be traced along the crests of several rocky s um mits. They are well preserved in some parts, and afford a good specimen of Hellenic military architecture. Here, 72 3. cephaelenia (cephalonia). Sect. I. as elsewhere in Greece, scarce a vestige of any foundations can now be dis¬ covered within the line of walls ; whence it would appear that the chief design of these extensive fortified enclosures was to provide a refuge in periods of danger for the inhabitants of a whole district, along with their cattle and property. The site of Samos, a city often men¬ tioned by Homer, still exhibits exten¬ sive and most interesting ruins; and excavations in this neighbourhood have produced various specimens of ancient ornaments, vases, fragments of statues, &c., as well as coins bearing the inscrip¬ tions of "Safi.a. 1 . and The ancient city was built near the shore of the bay which so deeply indents the northern part of the island. A rich and fertile valley, about 3 miles in width, extends hence 6 miles inland to the roots of the mountains. At its N.E. extremity, on two craggy hills, separated by a deep ravine, are the remains of the massive Cyclopean and Polygonal walls of the Acropolis, and of another citadel, which Livy appears to designate under the name of Cyathis. It has been suggested that it was so called from its cup-like shape. The remainder of the town seems to have occupied the slopes between the Acropolis and the sea. It was in ruins in Strabo’s time, but from some vestiges of Roman brickwork still extant it would appear that, like many other Greek cities, it was partly rebuilt during the prosperity and tranquillity of the Augustan age. The huge blocks of stone of which the walls of the Acro¬ polis are constructed will remind the Italian traveller of Cortona and Fiesole, and are worthy of a town which, in B.C. 189, stood a four months’ siege against the Romans (Livy, xxxviii. 28, 29). The ruins are beautifully over¬ grown with shrubs,creepers,and flowers; and there is a glorious prospect from among them. On the shore of the bay below is a small modem village, whence a ferry-boat crosses the channel to Ithaca. The broad but sheltered har¬ bour of Samos, and its position on the strait which affords the most direct communication between the Adriatic and the Gulf of Corinth, point it out as a far more eligible site than that of Argostoli for the capital of the whole island. The Bay of Samos abounds in a variety of excellent fish, which ai’e usu¬ ally taken at night. As elsewhere in these seas they are attracted by torches carried in the sterns of their boats by the fishermen, who present a singular and picturesque appearance amidst the darkness of the scenery, “ like Genii armed with fiery spears.” There are various curiosities in this neighbourhood well worthy the attention of strangers, besides the ancient ruins; and more particularly a stream of fresh water, rising in the sea about half-a-mile from the shore, and which, on a very calm day, may be seen gushing up at least a foot above the surface. Again, near the shore at this point there is a sub¬ terranean lake, or abyss, open at the top, the circumference of which is about 150 yards. Further up the valley of Samos, and near the road to Argostoli, is another singular cavern. Indeed, Cephalonia abounds in both artificial and natural curiosities. The remains of Proni, or Pronesus, as it was also called, are to be found on the summits of the lulls overlooking the beautiful valley of Racli (i.e. Heraclea), on the east side of the island. Weleam from Polybius (v. 3) that it was of old an inconsiderable town; and its coins are now very scarce; they bear gene¬ rally the club of Hercules and the le¬ gend np., npo., and riPONAfiN. N.B. Nesiotce in Livy (xxxviii. 18) is pro¬ bably a false reading for Pronesiotce , the ethnic form of Pronesus. The valley of Racli is well worthy of a visit, as also the Bay of Poros in its vicinity. Here a Maltese colony and model-farm were established by Sir Charles Napier, while Resident of Cephalonia ; but they are now given up (see Napier’s Colonies, &c., London, 1833). Besides these four city-communities, each of which was of sufficient import¬ ance to coin its own money, there are also some vestiges of a fifth upon Cape Scala, the S.E. point of the island. Ionian Islands. 73 3 . CEPHAIXENIA (CEPHALONIA). These last remains are of the Roman period, and probably belong to the town, which, as we learn from Strabo, C. Antonius, the colleague of Cicero in his consulship, commenced building while residing in Cepliallenia after his banishment from Italy. Moreover, from j several Hellenic names, such as Taphos and At err a, still remaining, it would j appear that there were also other smaller towns or fortresses in the island. On a peninsula in the northern district, and commanding two harbours, stands the mediaeval Castle of Assos: and a piece of Hellenic wall shows that here was probably the site of an ancient for- 1 tification. One of the most charming | excursions in Cephalonia is that to j Assos. The cottages and vineyards i within the wide enclosure of the de¬ serted walls are very pretty and cheer¬ ful ; while the picturesque village of; Assos on the shore below, with its j groves and gardens, relieves the stem sublimity of the neighbouring sea and mountains. Again, the port of Viscardo, near the northern extremity of the island (also called Cape Yiscardo), is evidently the I ancient Panormus (TlBo^n;), opposite j Ithaca, alluded to in an epigram of the Anthology (Anthol. Or., vol. ii. p. 99, ed. Jacobs). The modern name is de¬ rived from Robert G-uiscard (in Italian Viscardo), who died in Cephalonia a.d. 1085, on his second expedition against i the Greek Empire. That great Norman chieftain had already founded the king- dom of Naples at the head of a few adventurers of his own race, and had seen the Emperors both of the East j and of the "West fly before his arms. Had it not been for his untimely death, it is not impossible that he might have forestalled the Latin conquest of Con¬ stantinople in a.d. 1204, and seated a Norman dynasty on the shores of the Bosphorus as well as on those of the Thames and of the Bay of Naples. Cephalonia was correctly described by Homer and Strabo as a rugged and mountainous country. It has little of the soft beauty of Corfu and Zante. A lofty ridge runs across from N.W. to Greece. S.E., the lower declivities of which cover nearly the whole island. The highest summit of this range, rising to the height of 4500 feet, was called of old Minus, and upon it was a temple of Jupiter iEnesius, as we learn from Strabo. Dr. Holland states that remains of an altar still existed here in a.d. 1813 ; but they have since disappeared. The BlacJc Mountain (Monte Nero), as the Mount iEnos of antiquity is now called from the dark pine-forest with which it is partly clothed, is the most striking fea¬ ture in the general aspect of Cephalonia. Like Soracte, as described by Lord Byron, it— “ Swells like a long-drawn wave from out the main, And on the curl hangs pausing.” The summit is accessible without much difficulty. A good though steep road leads from Argostoli for about 6 miles to the Convent of St. Gerasimus, the patron-saint of the island, whose body is kept there, and to whom great vene¬ ration is paid. The road proceeds thence upwards on various parallels till it reaches the pass of San Liberate, and is thus far accessible in a carriage ; it then becomes a bridle road for about 2 miles more, after which it dwindles into a mere goat-track, and proceeds through the pine-forest, skirting several preci¬ pices, to the summit. The magnificent view from this point amply repays the toil of the ascent. There is frequently snow on the Black Mountain for several months in the year. The pines have suffered from accidental fires, but were not thought unworthy of the notice of Napoleon. A Cephalonian gentleman is related to have been presented to him while the island was in the hands of the French, when the Emperor’s first re¬ mark was about the forest on the Black Mountain, and the utility of its timber for ship-building. Such was the know¬ ledge possessed by that great statesman and warrior of the resources even of the smallest of the many countries which owned his sway. Currant-grapes are the staple com¬ modity of Cephalonia. Wine and olive oil are also produced in considerable E 74 Sect. I. 3. CEPHALLENIA quantities. Sufficient com is grown for the consumption of only a few months. Want of water is the great natural defect of the island. There is not a single constantly flowing stream ; while the springs are neither numerous nor plentiful, and some of them fail en¬ tirely in dry summers. Property is much more divided in Cephalonia than in Zante; about one-sixth of the cul¬ tivated land belongs to the Convents, of which there are more than twenty in the island, and many of them are very ancient. The Convent of Sisi was particularly honoured by the Crusaders, who frequently landed in Cephalonia to pay their vows and offerings at its shrine. The Cephalonians are generally more enterprising and industrious than the other Ionians; indeed their quickness and activity have long obtained them distinction among all Greeks ; and they may be found settled as traders, me¬ dical practitioners, &c. throughout the Levant. Since their island has been placed under British protection, the local and family feuds by which it was formerly distracted have been repressed, if not extinguished, though they still occasionally, as in 1848 and 1849, when stimulated by political excitement, and by foreign emissaries of revolution, break out afresh. In September, 1848, an armed band of insurgents marched to the attack of Argostoli, but were en¬ countered on the causeway at the en¬ trance of the town by a Serjeant’s guard of a dozen English soldiers of the 36th Begt. Several of the assailants fell, and five of the English had been killed or wounded before reinforcements arrived ; but the survivors gallantly maintained their ground against overwhelming odds. The Serjeant, who, like a new Horatius Codes, had “ kept the bridge so well,” when asked by Lord Seaton, then Lord High Commissioner, what reward he wished from the Crown for his excellent conduct, replied, “ I only ask that my wife may be allowed to come out to me.” His moderate request was complied with, and he was also granted a medal, and a pension of 20Z. a-year for life. (cephalonia). In August, 1849, a second insurrection broke out in Cephalonia, when frightful horrors were perpetrated by the insur¬ gents, who were, however, speedily crushed by the energetic measures of Sir H. Ward, the successor of Lord Seaton. ( See Quarterly Review, No. 182.) The chief town, Argostoli (Acyctr- r'oXwv), is situated on the shore of a creek brandling out on the E. side of the arm of the sea, which extends deeply into the island from the south. The harbour is sheltered and safe, but grows shallow towards its termination, where a causeway, 700 yards in length, has been thrown across it at a point where it is only a few feet deep. Here took place the struggle already de¬ scribed between the insurgent peasantry and an English detachment. Argostoli is entirely shut out from all prospect of the open sea; never having been fortified it stretches about a mile along the ex¬ cellent quays which line the harbour and form a promenade for the inhabitants, who are about 8000 in number. Most of the public buildings in the capital, as well as of the splendid roads which open out the island in all directions, were constructed while Sir Charles Napier was Resident. A low ridge of lulls, whose declivities are covered with vil¬ lages, vineyards, and olive-groves, rises behind Argostoli, intervening between this branch of the gulf and the southern coast of the island. On the summit of these hills a telegraph has been placed on a point commanding an extensive prospect. Behind it and along the sea¬ shore stretch the two principal rides and drives of the Cephalonians, called respectively II grande and II piccolo giro, the former being 12, the latter 5 miles in extent. In the village of He- taxata, not far from the grande giro, and which can be conveniently visited on the same excursion, is the house occupied by Lord Byron during the three months which lie passed in Ce¬ phalonia in the winter of 1823-4. Many other pretty villas are scattered through¬ out the island. About 5 miles E. of Argostoli stands Ionian Islands. 4 . leucadia (j on an insulated hill the Venetian Castle I of St. George, which is well worthy of a I visit. It is not now kept in repair ; but during the middle ages, the chief town of the' island clustered round the walls of this fortress, the incursions of cor¬ sairs making it unsafe to live nearer the shore. On the W. side of the great gulf, and nearer the open sea than Argostoli, is situated the town of Lixuri, containing 5000 inhabitants. It is not so well built as the seat of government, but is its rival in trade and local import¬ ance. About a mil e and a half from Argo- J stoli, near the entrance of the harbour, j occurs a phenomenon apparently con- 1 trarv to the order of Nature ; the water of the sea flowing into the land in cur¬ rents or rivulets, which are lost in the bowels of the earth, at a place where the shore is low and cavernous from the action of the waves. The descending streams of salt-water flow with such rapidity that an enterprising English¬ man some years ago erected a grist-mill on one of them. The flow is constant, unless the mouths, through which the water enters, are obstructed by sea¬ weed. The fact is, however, that the sea flowing into the land is only a new form of a phenomenon of frequent oc¬ currence in Greece. In the land-locked valleys and basins of its mountains, lakes and rivers often find for them¬ selves subterranean passages (called *«- rccfioPox. i. e. through the cavities of the rocks, and even pursue their unseen course for a considerable distance before they emerge again to the light of day. Channels of this kind carry off the waters of the Lake of Joannina in Epirus, and of the Copaic Lake in Boeotia, and are frequent in Arcadia. (See Leake's Morea , vol. iii., pp. 45, 153-155, 263, &c.) Their fami¬ liarity with these freaks of Nature was probably the origin of the extravagant legends of the ancient Greeks about long submarine courses of rivers, e.g. of the Alpheus of Elis reappearing in the Sicilian fountain of Arethusa. SANTA MAUBA). 7<3 4. Leucadia (Santa Mauba). The earliest appellation of this island is that found in Homer— “ thej peninsula or Acte of the mainland ”—A*-i Htumio —a term also applied to other remark¬ able projections of the Greek Conti¬ nent, such as Attica (Att«>j for A*r/*Ji), Argolis, and the promontory of Mount Athos (Od. xxiv. 377). The name of Epirus, or Continent, was anciently given, in contradistinction from the neighbouring islands, not only to Epi¬ rus proper, but also to Acarnania ; the latter province having changed its name in after ages in honour of the hero Acarnan. The original inhabitants of this peninsula were Teleboae and Lele- ges ; but, in the seventh century before Christ, the Corinthians under Cypselus founded a new town called Leucas in the N.E. of the country, near the isth¬ mus, in which they settled 1000 of their citizens, and in which they became amalgamated with the inhabitants of the Homeric Nericos , a city which pro¬ bably stood on nearly the same site. The Corinthians also cut a canal through the isthmus, and thus converted the peninsula into an island. This canal was afterwards filled up by deposits of sand; and in the Peloponnesian war it was no longer available for ships, which on more than one occasion during that period were conveyed across the isth¬ mus (Thucyd., iii. 81; iv. 8). It was in the same state in B.C. 218, for Poly¬ bius (v. 5) relates that Philip, the son of Demetrius, had his galleys drawn across the dry land in that year; and we deduce a si mil ar inference from Livy (xxxiii. 17), who, in relating the siege of Leucas by the Romans in B.C. 197, has given an admirably graphic description of the locality: “ Leucadia, nunc in- j sula, et vadoso freto quod perfossum | manu est, ab Acarnania divisa, turn peninsula erat, occidentis regione artis : faucibus cohserens Acarn anise. I In his angustiis Leucas posita est, colli applicata verso in Orientem et Acania- I niam. Ima urbis plana sunt, jacentia j ad mare, quo Leucadia ab Acarnania j dividitur. Inde terra marique expug- I E 2 16 Sect. I. 4. XEUCADIA (SANTA MAURA). nabilis est. Nam et vada srnit stagno similiora quam mari; et campus terre- nus omnis, operique facilis.” The sub¬ sequent restoration of the canal and the construction of a stone bridge replacing the isthmus, and of which some re¬ mains are still visible near the modern Fort Constantine, were probably the work of Augustus, for both the canal and the bridge appear from Strabo to have been in existence in the time of that Emperor, whose policy it was to facilitate communications throughout his vast dominions, and who would feel particularly interested in opening a direct route between his newly-founded colonies of Nicopolis and Patrse. The Leucadians had three ships in the battle of Salamis (Herod., viii. 45) ; and afterwards sided, like the majority of the Dorian states, with Sparta during the Peloponnesian war. In the contest between the Romans and Philip of Ma- cedon, the Acarnanians, of whom Leucas had become the capital and national centre (“Id caput Acamania; erat, eoque in concilium omnes populi convenie- bant,” Livy , xxxiii. 17), rejected the Roman alliance, and were reduced after a gallant defence, picturesquely de¬ scribed by Livy. Leucas thus fell un¬ der the power of Rome, but continued to be still a place of considerable im¬ portance, as appears both from the great number of Roman coins found in the island, and also from the fact of its having been made very early the seat of a Christian Bishopric. The Bishop of Leucas was one of the fathers of the Council of Nice in a.d. 325. On the conquest of the Byzantine Empire by the Franks in the 13th century, this island fell to the lot of a Latin noble, whose family seems to have retained possession of it, with some interrup¬ tions, until it was seized by the Turks in 1467. From that time forth until the fall of the Republic of St. Mark, Leucadia was sometimes held by the Porte, sometimes by the Yenetians, to which latter power it was not finally ceded till the Treaty of Passarowitz in 1718. A few localities still preserve the names of their old Mahommedan pro¬ prietors, as is also the ease on the main¬ land of Greece. After passing through, subsequent to 1797, a series of vicissi¬ tudes similar to those undergone by its neighbours, this island was occupied in the spring of 1810 by a detachment of the English forces, which in the pre¬ ceding autumn had expelled the French from Cephalonia, Zante, Ithaca, and Cerigo. The Fort, garrisoned by several hundred Frehch troops, held out for some weeks. General (then Major) Church, afterwards so well known from the command he held during the Greek War of Independence, was severely wounded in the assault which led to its capture. Leucadia somewhat resembles the Isle of Man in shape and size. It con¬ sists of a range of limestone mountains, terminating at its north-eastem extre¬ mity in a bold and rugged headland, whence the coast runs in a S.W. direc¬ tion to the celebrated promontory of Sappho’s Leap—called, of old, Leucates —which has been corrupted by the Italians into Capo Ducato. The name of the cape, as well as of the island, is of course derived from its white cliffs, like our own Albion , and like Leucimne , the southern district of Corfu. At the N.E. headland already mentioned, the ridge makes a sudden bend to the east¬ ward, and then runs S. in a course nearly parallel to the opposite hills of Acarnania, thus forming the channel between the island and the mainland. The southern shore is more soft in aspect and more sloping and cultivated than the rugged rocks of the northern coast: the bay of Laiilike, in particular, washes a rich and fertile valley; and the ancient name of Hellomenum is pre¬ served in that of a harbour in this part of the island. The most populous and wooded district is, however, that oppo¬ site Acarnania. Here, where the valleys open out from among the mountains towards the sea, stand many picturesque villages, embowered in orange and olive groves. From under the N.E. extremity of the island, a lido , or spit of sand, 4 miles in length, sweeps out towards the shore of Acarnania, from which its ex- Ionian Islands. 4 . LEUCADIA (SANTA MAURA). 77 tremity is separated by a shallow lagoon not more than from 2 to 5 feet deep. It is on this lido, at the distance of about f of a mile from Acamania, and the same from Amaxichi, that a har¬ bour has been constructed by the Anglo- Ionian Government, and protected by a mole terminating in a lighthouse. Flanking this harbour stands the Fort of Santa Maura , erected in the middle ages by one of the Latin princes, but repaired and remodelled both by the Turks and the Venetians. It derives its name from a chapel -within the circuit of its walls, dedicated to Santa Maura, whose festival is celebrated on May 3. The fort was connected with the island by an aqueduct, serving also as a cause¬ way, 1300 yards in length, and with 260 arches. It was originally built by the Turks, but was ruined by the earthquake of 1825, and has not been since repaired. It forms a picturesque object spanning the lagoon. The Venetian governor, his officers, and the chief men of the island, formerly lived within the fort, and kept their magazines, and the cars («,««!«/) on which they carried down their oil and wine from the inland districts, at the nearest point of the island. The con¬ gregation of buildings thus formed, and to which the inhabitants of the fortress gradually retired as the seas became more free from corsairs, arose by degrees to be the capital and seat of govern¬ ment, and is called, in memory of its origin, Amaxichi (A^a| lx 10 *)- Hence, the foet alone is properly called Santa Maura , and the capital Amaxichi; while the island at large retains its ancient name of Leucadia. The private houses which formerly filled the wide area within the fort have now been mostly cleared away; and this, together with the northern breeze which sets in daily during the summer months, contributes to render it not unhealthy. The English garrison has not of late years exceeded a company of the line and a small detachment of artillery. A few cannon are mounted on the walls, which are not strong ex¬ cept in their almost insular position, especially as they are commanded, at the distance of about 1200 yards, by a small fort on the Acarnanian coast, erected at the beginning of the present century by Ah Pasha, but now dis¬ mantled and in ruins; as is also the case with another fortress, built by the same wily despot, at the southern ex¬ tremity of the channel, at a period when he hoped to make himself master of the island, as he lately had of Prevesa. Fort Santa Maura, however, is not badly placed for the defence of the strait at the point where, though not narrowest, it is most easily fordable. A few pabn and date trees give it a picturesque and Oriental appearance. Amaxichi is built in the most un¬ healthy position of the whole island, on the edge of the lagoons. It contains about 4000 inhabitants. The town has a wretched appearance, the houses being rarely more than two stories high, and | the upper one being constructed of wood—a necessary precaution on ac¬ count of the frequent earthquakes. Inside, the ceilings of the rooms are strengthened with massive joists of wood, making them look like the cabin of a ship. A bad earthquake, such as occurs here and in Zante about once every twenty years, throws all these houses on their beam-ends, but it is easy to right them again. The slight shocks which occur almost every month are merely like the rolling of a ship in a heavy sea. When an earthquake begins, all the churches are thrown open, and crowded by the population; the bells are rung and masses chanted to avert the awful calamity. This custom, particu¬ larly at night, has a very solemn effect. Amaxichi derives its only pleasing feature from a very ancient and vene¬ rable olive-wood behind it, stretching to the foot of the mountains, and varie¬ gated with cypresses and gardens. Be¬ neath its shade, festas are frequently held, where the stranger will have an opportunity of observing the picturesque costumes of the islanders. The luxu¬ riant vegetation, however, increases the malaria engendered by the stagnant waters of the lagoon. Sect. I. 78 4. LEUCADIA (SANTA MAURA). This island produces com sufficient for eight months’ consumption of its inhabitants, and exports oil, wine, and salt, of which a considerable quantity is procured by evaporation in the lagoons. The currant-grape does not succeed here, any .more than in Corfu. The only dependency of Leucadia is the island Meganesi (M tyavrun), the ancient Taphus , off its southern shore, contain¬ ing about 200 families, and growing corn and olives. The lagoon of Santa Maura is so shallow that only light canoes (called povofyxa) can traverse it. Its length is about 3 miles, and in breadth it varies from 100 yards to a mile and a half. Between the fort and the town the Anglo-Ionian government have con¬ structed a canal, with a towing-path, for boats drawing not more than 4 or 5 feet of water. A ship-canal, 16 feet deep, has also been commenced across the whole length of the lagoon, from Port Santa Maura to Fort Alexander, a distance of about 3 miles. This work, if the state of the Ionian exchequer ever allows it to be brought to completion (which seems doubtful), will open a sheltered passage for large vessels along the Acarnanian shore, and will increase and facilitate the commerce of the island. Colonel Leake (Northern Greece, vol. iii. p. 20) argues that Strabo could never have visited Leucadia, because he states that the isthmus, the ancient canal, the Homan bridge, and the city of Leucas, were all close together, while Nericos was in a different situation. The great topographer, following the common and superficial opinion, believes the isthmus and ancient canal to have been 3 miles north of the city of Leucas, and near the modern Fort Santa Maura. Though disinclined to dissent from a writer who generally hits off ancient topography by a sort of intuition, we, on the whole, agree on this occasion with K. O. Muller and others, who believe that the isth¬ mus and canal of antiquity were a little south of the city of Leucas, i.e. between Fort Alexander in the island, and Pa¬ leocaglia on the main land. The chan¬ nel is narrowest at this point, not being more than 100 yards across ; and it is probable that the old capital would have been built close to the isthmus connect¬ ing the peninsula with the main land. Its ruins now cover several rocky emi¬ nences, and the foundations of its walls may still be traced down to the edge of the strait. The remains on the lower ground are of a more regular, and, therefore, more modem masonry than those on the higher ground behind. Hence it seems probable that Nericos was the ancient Acropolis, built on the heights commanding the isthmus ; and that the Corinthian colonists gave the name of Leucas to the town which they erected on the shore below. Numerous instances occur in history of different quarters of the same city being known by distinct names. The long spit of sand on which the modem Fort Santa Maura has heen built probably did not exist in antiquity, and may have been thrown up at first by an earthquake, for it is still yearly increasing, from the action of the winds and the waves. Fort Alexander, mentioned above, as well as Fort Constantine, a few hundred yards N. of it, were built by the Rus¬ sians when protectors of the Septin- sular Republic, at the beginning of the present century, for the purpose of de¬ fending the narrowest part of the chan¬ nel. On the Acarnanian shore, just opposite, are the remains of a fortified enclosure of the middle ages, called Paleocaglia (T\ aXuir^aXirj.;). In June, 1847, Theodore Grivas, a well-known cliieftain of the revolution, revolted against King Otlio, and was besieged here with his 130 followers. The royal¬ ists kept up a heavy fire of cannon and musketry on Paleocaglia for several hours, and it was returned from the small arms of the besieged; but no blood was shed on either side, as is often the case in these Greek skirmishes, both parties firing from behind rocks, &c., without exposing their persons or coming to close quarters, and none but the chiefs being really in earnest. During the night Grivas and his men escaped into the Anglo-Ionian territory. Ionian Islands. 4 . ueucadxa (s He has since been amnestied, and lives in a tower on the Acamanian shore, where he is happy to receive visits from anv Englishman. Nothing can be more delightful than a scramble among the ruins of the ancient city of Leucas. The crumbling walls of Cyclopean and Polygonal ma¬ sonry cover several rocky heights, at the distance of only a short walk from the modem town. They are overgrown with ivy and creepers, and vineyards and olive-groves are planted among them. Below, a copious fountain (n f/.zyixvt /3issues from the foot of the hill. ' Water is conveyed thence to Amaxichi, a distance of 11 miles, by a subterranean conduit, restored in late years, but originally constructed by the Turks, who rival the ancient Romans and shame modem European nations by their love of a copious supply of pure water. Around this fountain, and reaching down to the edge of the channel, was the cemetery of the Leu- cadians, as appears from the numerous sepulchral inscriptions, vases, &c., dis¬ covered in this vicinity. Two excursions—first, to Karus or Skarus, and, secondly, to the Leuca- dian promontory, or Sappho's Leap , will enable the traveller to see all that is most remarkable in the interior of the island. 1. The hill of Karus forms the angle at the S.W. extremity of the channel separating Leucadia from Acamania. Four hours’ riding over rough moun¬ tain-paths are required to reach the s ummi t from the town. The sides of the bill are covered with a primeval oak forest, full of deep dells and dark thickets, which recall the solemn lines of Dante at the opening of the In¬ ferno :— “ In mezzo del cammin di nostra vita Mi ritrovai per una selva oscura," &c. And yet but a few steps lead the tra¬ veller forth into the bright sunshine of Greece, and lay before him, framed by the overarching branches, one of the most magnificent and stirring prospects in the world, with the waters of Actium on one hand, and the waters of Lepanto IANTA MAURA). 79 on the other. To the N. the river is bounded by the peak of San Salvador in Corfu, whence the eye ranges along the shore of Epirus, and the glorious range of Pindus, down to the plain of Nieopolis, the minarets and forts of Prevesa, and the low promontory of Actium, where it “ Ambracia’s gulf beholds, where once was lost A world for woman,—lovely—harmless thing." In fine weather that beautiful inland sea shines like one vast mirror, reflecting on its surface the giant pinnacles of the surrounding mountains. In Greece, fair Nature, as Shakspeare says of fair woman, is “ ever making mouths in a glass.” Immediately below Karus are the ruins of the ancient city of Leucas, crowning the rocky summits of the hills which line the strait;—the modern Fort Santa Maura, insulated amidst the la¬ goons ; the level headland on which Amaxichi, embosomed in groves and gardens, is situated; and, across the narrow channel, the wild Acamanian mountains, whose utter desolation con¬ trasts strikingly with the flourishing villages and cultivated slopes of the island. To the S. the horizon is bounded by the mountains of the Peloponnesus, and by the curiously jagged outline of Mount Skopos in Zante. To the S.W. are Ithaca and Cephalonia, between winch and the mainland the sea is dotted with groups of islets of every picturesque form and of every glowing colour. The wood of Karus is the last strong¬ hold of the wolves in the Ionian Islands. They do considerable damage among the * flocks and herds, but are rarely known to have attacked men. It is asserted in Leucadia, and the story, if correct, is a curious one, that wolves j had become quite extinct in this island before the Greek war of independence; | but that, when the insurgents had been | driven to the dens and caves of the ! mountains, these beasts of the wilder¬ ness, dislodged by the intrusion of man I from their usual haunts, crossed the narrow and fordable channel, and took refuge under British protection. Jackals 1 are still found in all the islands. 2. It requires 8 or 9 hours to ride 80 Sect. I. 4. LEUCADIA (SANTA MAURA). from tlie town to Sappho's Leap. It will be necessary, therefore, to make provision for sleeping one night on the excursion, and for that purpose it is advisable to procure from the Resident a letter of recommendation to a hospit¬ able contadino , or peasant proprietor, in the village of Attani, 6 hours from Amaxichi, in whose roomy cottage the English stranger is sure of a hearty and prhnitive welcome. After leaving the olive-woods around the town, the road ascends a steep hill, and thence some¬ times winds along the western coast, sometimes strikes across the central heights. The interior of the island wears everywhere a rugged aspect. There is but little cultivation, except where ter¬ races have been formed on the mountain sides, and planted with vineyards. The scene is occasionally enlivened by a grove of evergreen oaks embosoming a church, or by a village surrounded with clumps of olives and cypresses. During a portion of the winter, the highest ridge of Santa Maura, rising about 3000 feet over the sea, is robed in snow and mist, as it appeared to the eyes of iEneas (iEn. iii. 274) :— ‘‘ Mox et Leucatse nimbosa eacumina montis, Et formidatus nautis aperitur Apollo.” In like manner, the deep water, the strong currents, and the fierce gales which they there encounter, have pre¬ served among the Greek sailors of the present day the evil fame which the Leucadiau cape bore of old. Nothing but the substructions of the once far- famed Temple of Apollo now exist on the promontory. A small monastery, dedicated to St. Nicholas, the patron of mariners, nestles in a sheltered nook at a short distance from it. It is a graceful feeling which has often induced men, both in ancient and in modern times, to cover with a temple or a church the cliffs of their native land. The temple of the Leucadian Apollo, and that of Athene on Sunium, are but the forerunners of such shrines as the lofty chapels of Our Lady above Hon- fleur and Marseilles, whence the “ Star of the Sea” guides the sailor from afar to his home, and recalls his wandering thoughts to that other and happier haven which awaits him when the storms and troubles of this life shall have passed away for ever. A broken white cliff, rising on one side perpendicularly from the sea to the height of at least 200 feet, and sloping precipitously into it on the other, forms “ Leucadia’s far-projecting rock of woe,” Its summit is strewn with fragments of ancient pottery, glass, and hewn stones, the relics of the temple of Apollo ; and the coins discovered on the spot gene¬ rally hear a harp in honour of “ the God of Love, of Light, and Poesy.” The prospect is very extensive, hut in¬ ferior to that from Karus, described above. The ancient associations of the spot form its chief charm. At the annual festival of Apollo it was the custom to cast down a criminal from this headland into the sea; to break his fall birds of various kinds were attached to him, and if he reached the water un¬ injured there were boats ready to pick him up (Strabo, x.; Cicero, Tusc. iv. 18 ; Ovid, Heroid. Ep. xv. 165). This appears to have been a kind of ordeal, or rather an expiatory rite; and it gave origin to the famous story that lovers leaped from this rock in order to seek relief from the pangs of love, after the example of Sappho when enamoured of Phaon. But that well-known legend vanishes at the first approach of criti¬ cism. It is prettily set forth by Moore in his Evenings in Greece :— “ The very spot where Sappho sung Her swan-like music, ere she sprung (Still holding in that fearful leap By her loved lyre) into the deep, And dying quenched the fatal fire At once of both her heart and lyre.” On the island there is too little cover to furnish any quantity of game ; but in Aearnania magnificent sport may be enjoyed in a magnificent country. During an easy excursion from Fort Santa Maura there may be found red- deer, fallow-deer, roe, wolves, jackals, &c., as well as an abundance of woodcocks, and every kind of wild fowl, from peli¬ cans to jacksnipes. The best places to land at are Saltona and Encheleovivari (F.yfciXiofiifirigi, vivarium, i. e. Ionian Islands. 5. ITHACA. SI eel-pond), which are only a short row i across the lagoons. Farther to the j southward, and nearly opposite to 1 Ithaca, there is good shooting near the bay of Traqamesli, and at the mouth of the Achelous. Unless the traveller should intend to make a tour in Albania, he ought by no means to omit visiting, while in this island, the Turkish town of Prevesa, and the ruins of Nicopolis, about 3 miles from it. (See Section IT.) With favourable weather, and a good boat, this excursion can easily be made in a few horn's; going and returning the j same day. It is only 9 miles by sea from Fort Santa Maura to Prevesa; but that narrow space of water divides from each other countries and nations more essentially apart than those separated by the Atlantic Ocean. Again, in the West of Europe, though there are dis¬ tinct languages in different states, yet the traveller will observe generally only small and progressive varieties of cus¬ toms and dress. But here the scene is suddenly shifted, and there are pre¬ sented to his eyes at once many of those appendages of Oriental character, man¬ ners, and landscape, by which English¬ men— perhaps owing to their early knowledge of the Bible—are so power- j fully attracted. From the familiar * habits and features of a British garrison, and of civilized life, with all its glare and bustle, the English traveller who crosses to Prevesa is imm ediately intro¬ duced into the solemn stillness of the East. The sedate and bearded Otto¬ man, veiled women, latticed harems, are around him ; and the Albanian mountaineers, with their singular state¬ liness of carriage, and arrayed in the most picturesque costume of the world. Then too there is the fantastic tracery of the mosque, and the tall slender minaret from which the Imaum prays with his face to Mecca; in a word, a voyage of little more than one hour has produced a greater contrast than the voyage between London and New York, or between Lisbon and Bio Janeiro. 5. Ithaca. “ There is, perhaps, no spot in the world where the influence of classical associations is so lively or so pure as in the island of Ithaca. The little rock retired into obscurity immediately after the age of its great mythological warrior and of his poet, and so it has remained for nigh 3000 years. Unlike many other places of ancient fame, it is indebted for no part of its interest to more recent distinctions, or to the rival associations of modern history;—so much as the name of Ithaca scarcely occurs in the page of any writer of historical ages, unless with reference to its poetical celebrity. Indeed, in a.d. 1504, it was nearly, if not quite uninhabited, having been depopulated by the incursions of Corsairs, and during the fury of the wars waged between the Turks and the Christians; and record is still extant of privileges offered by the Venetian government to the settlers from the neighbouring islands, and from the mainland of Greece, by whom it was re¬ peopled. Here, therefore, all our recol¬ lections are concentrated around the heroic age; every hill and rock, every fountain and olive-grove, breathes Homer and the Odyssey; and we are transplanted by a sudden leap over a hundred generations to the most bril- ! liant period of Greek chivalry and ! song.”— Bowen. Like so many other names of clas¬ sical geography, Ithaca was said to be derived from a chieftain of primitive times called Ithacus, who is mentioned by Homer (Od. xviii. 207). The mea- i surement of the island, as given by I Strabo (x. 2), is very wide of the truth; its extreme length from N. to S. is | really about 17 miles; its greatest ! breadth does not exceed 4. It may be regarded in fact as a single narrow ridge j of limestone rock, everywhere rising into rugged hills, of which the chief is the mountain of Anoge (’ Avvyri), in shape and size not unlike Benlomond—tower¬ ing over the N. shore of the great har¬ bour. This, as being the highest and greatest mountain in the island, is, of 82 5. ITHACA. Sect. I. course, identified with the “ Neritos ardua saxis” of Yirgil (iEn. iii. 271), and the N ngtrov tivoff'npuXXov of Homer (Od. ix. 21), although the forests which once “ wared then’ leaves ” on its sides have now disappeared. That fact is the reason why rain and dew are not so common here now as they were in the poet’s time; and why the island no longer abounds in hogs fattening upon acorns, and guarded by “ godlike swine¬ herds ”—successors of Eumaeus. In all other points Homer’s descriptions are still as accurate in Ithaca as they are elsewhere—proving him to be the great father of History and Topography as well as of Poetry. His verses pre¬ sent a perfect picture of the island as it now appears:— ’Ev S’ \6a,K'/! out 'bpopoi ivpii; ourl rr,tXiZv ts. (Yid. Nitzsch. Cf. also Od. x. 196.) Strabo (x. 2) discusses the passage, and perhaps his explanation is the most satisfactory of any. He supposes that by the epithet yJa/j-aX* the poet in¬ tended to express how Ithaca lies under, as it were, the neighbouring mountains of Acamania; while by that of -raw- mpr&rn he meant to denote its position at the extremity of the group of islands formed by Zacyntbus, Cephallenia, and the Echinades. Eor another explana¬ tion see Dr. Wordsworth’s Greece. The whole population of the island amounts to about 10,000. They are extremely laborious both by land and sea, cultivating with patient industry the light and scanty soil of their island, and maintaining at the same time a considerable part of the coasting trade of Greece, as well as of the general car¬ rying commerce of the Mediterranean and the Euxine. Almost every family possesses a few roods of land of its own, as well as a share in one or more of the large and excellent ships which belong to their port, and are continually built and fitted out there. If we call to mind Ionian Islands. 5 . iti that Ulysses, with the whole force of the neighbouring islands of Cepliallenia and Zacynthus, only mustered 12 galleys as his contingent to the Trojan expedi¬ tion, it must be admitted that Ithaca has no reason to complain of any falling off in her naval establishment since the heroic age. (II. ii. 631, 637.) The late Earl of Guildford, thefounder and first president of the Ionian Uni¬ versity, had intended, if insuperable difficulties had not been thrown in his way, to have established that institution in Ithaca. And certainly the healthy situation, beautiful scenery, and perfect seclusion of this island seem to promise great advantages, if it had been selected as the chief seat of the national educa¬ tion. Here—amid mountains and rocks hallowed by a thousand memories, and in groves and gardens which Plato would have preferred to his Academe —the scholar might have delighted his hours of leisure with the fair visions of Greek poetry and philosophy, for which the s umm er stillness of a Grecian sky appears a natural and congenial accom¬ paniment. There is, however, in Ithaca, I as in the other Ionian islands, a good secondary, or grammar school, sup¬ ported by government; and in which ancient Greek, mathematics, history, geography, Italian, and English are taught. Primary schools also have been established in the chief villages. There are very few peasants who do not pos¬ sess at least the rudiments of a good education; and, along with all the courtesy and good humour, they have i even more than their share of the usual ready tact and cleverness of the lower orders throughout Greece. The higher classes resemble those of the neighbouring islands. Among the Itha¬ cans, as wherever else in Greece there is little admixture of Yenetian, Alba¬ nian, or other foreign blood—the tra¬ veller will generally remark that Hel¬ lenic cast of features so familiar from ancient statues and coins. Certainly the modem Greeks are, both physically and intellectually, the true representa¬ tives of their ancestors, and form a striking exception to the principle laid IACA. 83 down in the fine observation of Dante on the rarity with which human quali¬ ties descend from one generation to another—“because so it has been willed by Him who bestows them, that they may be called entirely His own gifts — “ Rade volte risurge per li rami L’ mmna probitate: e questo vuole Quei che la da, perclie da Lui si cbiami." (Purgatorio, vii. 121.) The three principal clans into which the Ithacans are divided are called Petal as, Karabias, and Dendrinos. The chief families of the island all either bear these names, or, wherever branches of them have taken other appellations, the new patronymics were generally derived from some sobriquet applied to one of their ancestors. For instance, the family of Zabos is a principal branch of the Petalades, and came to be desig¬ nated by its present name because its immediate founder had that epithet i. e. awkward) given to him. Numerous parallel examples occur in the genealogies of the clans of Ireland and Scotland. The civil government of Ithaca re¬ sembles that of the sister islands. Its ecclesiastical affairs are under the direc¬ tion of a Greek bishop ; and among the natives there is no other but the national religion. None of the churches are remarkable for architectural splendour or for costly decorations; but littl6 chapels are as numerous in this as in the neighbouring islands, and indeed in most parts of Greece. Ithaca is divided into four districts, Bathy, Aetos, Anoge, and Exoge; B ufii, ’Airif, A vaiyH, E^eoyrt, i. e. Deep Bay, Eagle's Cliff, Highland, Outland. The first at the southern, and the last at the northern extremity of the island, have each a fertile valley, but the rocky | mountains of the two midland districts admit of little cultivation. Currant- | grapes form the staple commodity of the Ithacans. A small quantity of oil j and wine is also exported, the latter j being reputed the best in the Ionian | Islands. The produce in grain suffices ■ only for three months’ consumption ; j and even that quantity is raised by great 84 5 . ITHACA. Sect. I. toil and industry. But the natives are enabled to supply themselves from abroad, partly by their profits in the so remarkable a feature in this little people. The sight of the modem capital of Ithaca must always excite admiration. Bathy contains about 2500 inhabitants, and extends in one narrow stripe of white houses round the southern ex¬ tremity of the horseshoe port or “deep” (■ Ba.6u ), whence it derives its name. Large ships can moor in perfect safety close to the doors of their owners. In Bathy are the barracks for the gar¬ rison—a company of the line and a few artillerymen—the dwellings of the cliief proprietors and merchants, several Greek churches, and the house of the Resident with the English flag,— “ The wavy cross that marks Britannia’s power,” displayed before it. The beauty of the scene is enhanced by a small island, crowned with buildings, in the middle 1 of the harbour, and by several insulated houses scattered over the rising ground behind the town, and surrounded with trees and gardens. The whole prospect derives a singular aspect of seclusion from the mountains winch, hang over it on every side. It has no view of the open sea, because the creek on which it is built is an inlet of the wide and deep gulf, which, branch¬ ing out into arms and bays sheltered by lofty hills and projecting cliffs, and running up into the heart of the island, divides it into two nearly equal por¬ tions, connected by a narrow isthmus. On the southern side of this great gulf, local tradition exhibits in a small creek the port of Phorcys, now called by the Ithacans As|/«, probably because it is on the right hand of the entrance to the port of Bathy; and a little way up Mount St. Stephen above the harbour, the grotto of the Nymphs, in which the sleeping Ulysses was deposited by the Phseaeians (Od. xiii. 116). The only | entrance to this cave is a narrow opening to theN.W.,admitting but little day. At the southern extremity there is a natural aperture, but more practicable for gods than for men. The vault within is lighted up by delicate gleams of a bluish hue, and is hung with stalactites, ex¬ panding here and there into what Homer calls webs of stone, where the Nymphs may be fancied to have woven their threads whose colour was like the purple of the ocean (Od. xiii. 108). It is highly probable that these are the very localities alluded to by Homer— indeed, this seems the only point exactly corresponding to the poet’s data :—1. In admitting unobserved of a rugged walk over woods and cliffs (Od. xiv. 1) to the station of Eumseus at the extremity of the island nearest Peloponnesus (Od. xv. 36) ; 2. In being directly in front of Neritos, and so exactly adapted to the speech of the disguised Pallas, when she proves to Ulysses that he is in Ithaca by pointing to the mountain (Od. xiii. 345). It may here be remarked that a late Resi¬ dent in the winter of 1850 came in a single day from Ithaca to Corcyra in one of the coasting boats of the island, which are very like ancient galleys both in appearance and in mode of naviga¬ tion ; so there is nothing wonderful in his predecessor Ulysses having accom¬ plished in a single night—particularly with the aid of Athene—the voyage from Corcyra to Ithaca (Od. xiii. 81). We have hitherto taken it for granted that this is the Ithaca alluded to by Homer. “ Of that fact,” says Mr. Bowen, “ we have ample testimony in its relative position to Zacynthus, Ceph- allenia, Leucadia, and the neighbour¬ ing mainland of Greece, as will at once be seen by a mere glance at the cata¬ logue of ships in the Iliad, or at the picture-like sketch of the surrounding scenery in Virgil. (iEn. iii. 270 et seqi) More detailed proofs may be drawn from numerous passages in the Odyssey, and from the internal features of the island; to every sceptic I would say, like Athene to Ulysses, 5. ITHACA. 85 Ionian Islands. ’AXX' olys toi hi'IixxtiS sic;, of ox rsroltys* « Wouldst thou thy breast from faithless doubts set free, 0 come, and view thy Ithaca with me 1 ’ “ There is something,” says Dr. Wordsworth, “ very fascinating in thus being brought into immediate contact with Homeric scenery and characters, and in reading with our own eyes the original of which his poem is a trans¬ cript.” The same accomplished writer argues that the author of the Odyssey must hare been really acquainted with Ithaca from the leading idea and moral of his poem, namely, the paramount love of country, which all the dangers of sea and land and all the witcheries of fairv islands cannot uproot from the breast of his hero. It is impossible to doubt but that the poet had travelled in different regions of the world; and is it probable that he would have laid the scene of a long poem in a country which he had never visited in preference to one well known to him ? And what is there in Ithaca—a mere rugged and barren rock—to justify such preference? Again, no one can pass from the descrip¬ tion of Phseacia, or of the country of the Cyclops and Lotus-eaters, to that of Ithaca, without feeling that he has ex- • Od. xiii. 314. The arguments on the scep¬ tical side of the question have been collected and arranged in a very subtle and elaborate manner by Professor Volker in his ‘ Geograpbia Horn ericabut they have been successfully confuted in a pamphlet by Ruble von Lilien- stem, • tJeber das Homerische Ithaca.’ The fondness with which Homer evidently dwells on the 6cenery of Ithaca gave rise to a report that he was a native of the island, and we ac¬ cordingly find it enumerated among the seven cities which disputed the honour of having given birth to the poet: 'Etto crcXii; /xaccxcro each hut is “ surrounded with a circular court” (cci/Xi i ; enclosed by a rude wall of loose stones, crowned with a chevaux-de-frise of prickly plants (ix'tchy), and a thick palisade of stakes. Similar are the rude encampments of the shepherds in all parts ot Greece. These wigwams, when erected for only temporary shelter by wandering tribes of Wallachians—those Scythians of the present day—“ quorum plaustra vagas rite trahunt domos ”—consist of merely a few poles thatched with straw or green boughs, and the wild inmates, crouch¬ ing round their fires, forcibly call to mind some of those whom « Hall’ alte selve irsuti manda La divisa dal mondo ultima Irlanda.” * “ On approaching hamlets and sheep- folds in all parts of Greece, the stranger is certain to find a somewhat disagree¬ able coincidence with Homer in being assailed, as fiercely as was Ulysses, by a whole pack of dogs. The number and ferocity of these descendants of the famous Molossian breed, resembling in appearance a cross between an English mastiff and sheepdog, is one of the pe¬ culiarities of the country which first attracts the attention of the traveller; and is also among the features of mo¬ dem Greek life that supply the most curious illustrations of classical anti¬ quity. Their masters are at first gene¬ rally remiss in calling them off, which they imagine cows their spirit, and makes them useless against wolves and robbers; and yet whoever shoots or seriously injures them is almost sure to get into a dangerous collision with the natives. This sometimes happens now¬ adays to English shooting parties, as it formerly did to Hercules at Sparta.")" * Tasso, Gerusalemme liberata, Canto i. 44. _ + Cf Pausanias, Lacon. xv. and Apollod. u. 73 When Hercules visited Sparta, he was at¬ tended by bis cousin, the young CEonus, who killed a dog which attacked him. The sons ot Hippocoon, the owner of the animal, rushed in consequence upon CEonus, and beat him to death with their clubs. Hence arose a bloody feud between Hercules and Hippocoon, which ended O. ITHACA. 88 5. ITHACA. Sect. I. The usual weapons of defence, there¬ fore, are the large loose stones, with which the rocky soil of Greece is every where strewed. These are generally as large as a man can throw with one hand—literally the Homeric x*o/joabiov, or ‘ handful,’ and ‘ sharp and jagged ’ (ozgious) like those hurled by the heroes of the ‘ Tale of Troy divine.’ It was a personal familiarity with this common feature of Hellenic nature and Hellenic manners that first conveyed to my mind a clear and vivid impression of that often recurring incident of Homer’s battles, when the combatants resort to the arms of offence which their native soil so abundantly supplies. Even in more civilized ages this weapon does not seem to have fallen altogether into disuse among the Greek military ;* and Sir Walter Scott tells us that in one of Montrose’s battles, the Highlanders, when their ammunition had failed, drove back the Covenanters with volleys of stones. A solitary stranger suddenly entering a Greek sheepfold would, like Ulysses, be in considerable danger of being torn in pieces; but on the public path, or at a distance from the objects of their care, these dogs seldom come to close quarters, and the lifting a stone in a threatening way, or even the act of stooping to pick one up, has usually the effect of keeping them off. Hence the humorous allusion of Aristophanes (Equites, 1028), A$ys S?r’’ tya 2s srjeura Xrr^ofiaL A/hv, “Iva jx o %pyitry.es b row xvvos bdxri. It has been observed too—with perhaps as much of satire as of truth—that a dog is never seen within the walls of Greek Churches, owing to the terror inspired by the frequent bowing of the congregation in the course of their de¬ votions, which the animal mistakes for stooping to lift up stones. A stranger finding himself in the same predicament as Ulysses when set upon by the dogs of his own swineherd, should imitate the example of the king of Ithaca, and craftily ( xsp^otrvv ^) sit down on the in the extermination of the latter with his whole family. * Cf. Lucian, de Gyrnms. 32. ground, dropping all weapons of defence (ffxrivrrgov oi ol ixorstn — until rescued by the Eumseus of the fold with ' loud cries ’ and ‘ thick showers of stones.’* It is confidently asserted by eye-witnesses that the dogs will form a circle round the person who thus dis¬ arms their wrath and suspicion, and renew their attack only when he moves again.”— Bowen. 3. The so-called School of Homer is situated near the village of Exoge in the northern division of the island. It consists of the substructions of some ancient buildings, perhaps a temple, and of several steps and niches cut in the rock. It is a sweet and pleasant spot, overgrown with rich festoons of ivy and other graceful creepers. Not very far off, and clinging to the side of Neritos, is the beautiful little village of Leuce, which, peeping out from the midst of wild luxuriant foliage, is con¬ sidered with probability to occupy the site of the garden of Laertes (Od., xxiv. 204). The best way to visit this district is to go in a boat from Bathy to the little port of Frikes at the north¬ east end of the island, whence it is but a short walk to the “ School of Homer.” From thence the traveller reaches in half-an-hour the large village of Stauros (Srayjss), i. e. Cross,—as common name in Greek as in English topo¬ graphy. If he has had the precaution to send on horses to this place, he may return to the capital easily in three hours by an excellent bridle-path, which is the only communication by land be¬ tween the north and south of the island. After leaving Bathy, it sweeps round the great harbour, crosses the isthmus obliquely, and then hangs like a cornice on the side of Mount Neritos, high over the channel of Cephalonia, commanding glorious views of the opposite island. Some traces of the ancient road may be discerned in this rocky path. Below the village of Stauro9 are some ancient remains near the little port of * Od. xiv, 29—36. This passage explains Aristot. Ehet. ii. 3. on 2e orpog rove t«- otintb/jtu’ovg iravirui fi b/>yr) xa.) el xvyig ?>j- Xouo’iv ol bdxiovris rovs xaSl^ovras. Ionian Islands. 5. ithaca. 89 Polls on the western coast of the island. ! Though the fortress and royal residence —the Windsor or Versailles—of the Ithacans may be identified with what is now called the Castle of Ulysses, and though its excellent harbour makes it probable that there was also a town on the site of the modern Bathv,—still it seems evident that the Homeric capital was at Polis. For the poet represents the suitors as lying in wait for Telem- achus on his return from the Pelopon¬ nesus at Asteris, “ a small island in the channel between Ithaca and Sa¬ mos,” * where the only island is the rock now called Dascalion, situated ex¬ actly opposite the entrance to Port Polis. It is therefore perfectly adapted to the purposes of the suitors if the capital was at Polis; indeed there is no other harbour, nor any other island, with which the poet’s narrative can be made to accord. Colonel Leake further remarks that the traditional name Polis is alone a strong argument that the town, of which the remains are still visible here, was that which Scylax,t and still more expressly Ptolemy,! mention as having borne the same name as the island. We may readily i believe that in every age, ■>, aroAis, or the city , was among the Ithacans the most common designation of their chief town. * Od. iv. 841. "Effn 5s rig two; «X) 'XiTorAffffu, Ms fftrr.yb; Ti'ldfjaaio TZ aru.i'KU.XaiffiT71$, ’Arnois, oil fityaiXn’ X/^tsvs; 5’ in vu.uko%oi aliTri AfMpidvgaC rn rov yi yi vov Ao^oeavns Ay^cuai. It is true that the little rock of Dascalion has not now a port with two entrances; hut, as Strabo observes, earthquakes and other physical causes may have materially changed its form since the time of Homer. doubtless is a contraction of A/SacyxseXsisv, and derives its name from having been at some time or other the residence of a monk who acted as a 'hihu.ry-u.Xa;. The name of Asteris would seem to imply that the Homeric island was a mere gtarlike rock. -{- vr,va$ ’I la.y.r 1 aroAii ?.cu Xqit'/iv. Scylax in Acamania. + 'Wxxti, s» 5 traX/j oyaauyas. —Ptolem. iii. 14. Cf. Leake’s Travels in Northern Greece, chap, x.xii. If the Homeric capital of Ithaca was at Polis, it will follow that Mount Xeium, under which it stood (Od., iii. 81), was the mountain of Exoge at the northern extremity of the island, and that one of its summits was the hill of Hermes, from which Eumseus saw the | ship of Telemachus entering the har- ] bour (Od., xvi. 471). It becomes pro¬ bable also that the harbour Reithrum, which was under Xeium, but apart from the city (Od., i. 185), may be identified with either of the neighbour¬ ing bays of Afales or Frikes. Crocyleia and xEgilips, enumerated by Homer among the subjects of Ulysses (II., ii. 633), were perhaps towns of Ithaca. The rugged rocks around the modern village of Anoge, scarcely accessible ex¬ cept to goats, lead to the conjecture that it may occupy the site of HCgilips. Strabo, however, is inclined to place Crocyleia and yEgilips in Leucaclia; while K. O. Muller is inclined to iden¬ tify them respectively with Arcudi and Atolco , two small islets between Ithaca and Leucadia. With the exception of Meganesion, or, as it is more usually called, Meganesi (M iycamairiav, Ms ycniriffi, i.e. Large Island), the ancient Taphus, which is a depen¬ dency of Leucadia, all the small islands lying along the western coast of Acar- nania are attached to the government of Ithaca. Of these the largest is Ca- lamos, anciently called Camus, contain¬ ing about a hundred families, who grow a good deal of com. During the Greek | war of Independence, Calamos was t made a place of refuge for many of the families of the insurgents, who were protected by a guard of English sol- i diers. This as well as Rastus, Atoko, and a few other small islets hard by, were inhabited of old by the Tapliians, or Telebose, as they are also called, who are celebrated by Homer as a mari¬ time people, addicted to piracy.* The whole group of the Echinades is also * Od. xv. 426, xvi. 426, &c. kc. These seas continued to be infamous for their piracies dow n to the time of Sir Thomas Maitland and Ali Pash it of Joannina, who finally put an end to | them. 90 5. ITHACA. Sect. I. a dependency of Ithaca. These islets, most of which are mere barren rocks, derive their name from the resemblance of their pointed, and, as it were, prickly outline, to the back of the Echinus, or sea hedge - hog, common on these shores.* By the Venetians they were known as the islands of Kurzolari, a name belonging properly to the high peninsular hill at the mouth of the Aclielous. Both ancient and modem critics have been puzzled as to the site of Duli- chium. But Strabo (x. 2) insists that it was one of the Echinades, and, as his opinion is in perfect conformity with Homer (IL, ii. 625), there seems no good reason for doubting that Duli- ckium was the head of an insular state, which, like Hydra and other Greek islands in modern times, may have at¬ tained by maritime commerce, not un¬ mixed, perhaps, with piracy, a high degree of populousness and opulence, far out of proportion with its natural resources and dimensions. It furnished forty ships to the Trojan expedition (IL, ii. 630). “ Petals,” says Col. Leake, “ being the largest of the Echinades, and possessing the advantage of two well-sheltered harbours, seems to have the best claim to be considered the ancient Dulichium.” + It is a mere rock, but so is Hydra, whose navy swept the Turks from the Aegean during the War of Independence. Moreover, as Petals is separated by a strait only a hundred yards across from the fertile alluvial plains at the mouth of the Aclielous, its natural deficiencies may have there been supplied, and the epi- * The rocks at the mouth of the Achelous, forming part of the Echinades, are called from their jagged and sharp outline, The epithet ®occl applied to them by Ilomer lias been interpreted as synonymous with 0£e 7ai; or it may be derived from Tfaoas, the ancient name of the Achelous, as we learn from Strabo. f Travels in Northern Greece, chap. xxii. We are more inclined to adopt a suggestion which Leake makes elsewhere, viz. that Du¬ lichium is to be found in the long narrow island near Petala, which is now called Maori (M«* The etymology of these two names (/ and f) would appear to be similar. tliets of grassy and abounding in wheat, which Homer applies to Dulielhum (Od., xvi. 396), may be referred to that part of its territory. From Petals an easy and interesting excursion may be made to the extensive and singularly picturesque ruins of CEnia, or the city of QEniadse (under which latter name it always occurs in history), situated on an eminence on the right or Acar- nanian bank of the Achelous. The surrounding scenery is as grand in all its natural features as in its classical associations;—this city, as the most important fortress in Western Greece, having often been the object of many a hard struggle. (See Section II., Part I.) The barren rocks at the mouth of the Achelous derive an undying interest from the fact that Lord Byron, during his perilous voyage from Ceplialonia to Mesolonghi in January, 1824, was three times obliged to take refuge among them, twice by the sudden storms so common in these seas, and once to escape from a Turkish cruiser. The hardships and exposure which he then endured for several days in a small Ionian boat were probably the ultimate cause of the illness which cut him off so prematurely in the following April. His enthusiasm for the noble cause to which lie devoted his life and fortune, though deep, was not flighty, like that of many other Philhellenes; his zeal, gallantry, and generosity are not more admirable than his calm good sense, moderation, humanity, and the remark¬ able clearness of vision with which he at once saw through the difficulties of his own position, and the character of the people with whom lie had to deal.* Had he lived longer among them, his excellent counsels and personal weight would have exercised an important in¬ fluence on their future destiny; and he * See Moore’s Life and Works of Byron, vol. vi. p. 3. “Of all those who came to help the Greeks,” says Sir Charles Napier (a person him¬ self most qualified to judge, as well from long local knowledge as from the acute, straightfor¬ ward cast of his own mind), “ I never knew one, except Lord Byron and General Gordon, that seemed to have justly estimated their cha¬ racter.” 91 6. ZACYNTHUS (zANTE). Ionian Islands. would have probably himself become the sadder and wiser man which his last verses bespeak him.* This was not to be; still Lord Byron has had the reward which he would have him¬ self desired. He sank into the grave amid the tears and blessings of a grateful nation ; and his name, like that of Lord Guildford, will never be forgotten in Greece.t It was off the Echinades also, J and not within the gulf of Corinth, as may be imagined from the name of Lepanto (so the Yenetians called Naupactus) having been generally applied to it, that was fought, on October 7, 1571, the most important naval engagement of modem times. Thoroughly alarmed by the recent fall of Cyprus and by the rapid progress on all sides of the Otto¬ man arms, § the Yenetians, who trembled for their possessions in the Adriatic,— Philip II. of Spain, whose Italian do¬ minions were in imminent danger, and Pope Pius Y., the soul of the whole enterprise, — entered into a league against the Infidels. The chief com¬ mand of the Christian armament was intrusted to Don John of Austria, a son of the Emperor Charles Y.—and then younger even than Alexander when he conquered the East, or than ".N apoleon when, in that wonderful cam¬ paign of 1796, he first hurled the Aus¬ trians from Italy. The Turkish fleet of 230 galleys was encountered almost within sight of the waters of Actium, where the empire of the world had been lost and won 1600 years before. The force was nearly equal on both sides ; and the battle was long, fierce, and * X allude more particularly to those beautiful lines written at Mesolonghi a short time before his death, and beginning “ ’Tis time this heart should be unmoved,” &c.—(See Section II. Part I.) f See Moore’s Life and Works of Byron, vol. vi., for Lord Byron’s Letters and Conversations on Greek Affairs. Compare also Gordon’s His¬ tory of the Greek Revolution, hook iv. chap. 1. + riaru, Histoire de Venise, xxvii. 16. Mar¬ mora, Istcria di Corfu, lib. vi. $ See Russell’s Modem Europe, part i. letter 70 ; and the authorities there quoted. Cervantes, the author of Don Quixote, _ was severely wounded at Lepanto, but survived to te smile Spain's chivalry away.” bloody. Then were roused all the fiercest passions which can agitate the heart of man,—religious and political hatred, the love of glory, the hope of conquest, the dread of slavery;—then were employed all the instruments of war of ancient and modem invention, arrows, javelins, fire-balls, grappling- irons, cannon, muskets, spears, and swords. The foemen fought hand to hand in most of the galleys, as on a field of battle. Ali, the Turkish ad¬ miral, and Don John, each surrounded by a chosen band of champions, main¬ tained a close contest for three hours. At last the Ottoman leader fell, his galley was taken, and the banner of the Cross was displayed from its mainmast. Then the cry of “ Victory, Victory!” resounded through the Christian fleet, and the Infidels gave way on every side. The loss of the Allies was very great, but near 200 of the Ottoman galleys were either captured or destroyed; above 25,000 Turks fell in the conflict, and 15,000 Christian slaves, found chained to the oars, were set at liberty. On that day of great joy for Christen¬ dom, the Turkish fleet received, like the Turkish army before Vienna in 1683, a blow from which it has never recovered. 6. Zacynthus (Zante). The history of Zacynthus is soon told. Pliny affirms that the island was in the earliest times called Hyrie,— perhaps a name of Phoenician origin, like Scheria, the Homeric appellation of Corcyra. But Zacynthus is the term constantly used by Homer; it is said to be derived from the founder of the chief city, an Arcadian chieftain. A very ancient tradition ascribed to this same Zacynthus the foundation of Saguntum in Spain, one of the very few commercial stations which the Phoenicians allowed their hated rivals to establish on the coasts of the Iberian Peninsula. “ Much has been said” (to quote Dr. Words¬ worth) “ concerning the origin of the name of Zacynthus ; and, as is usually the case, heroes have been created at will from whom that appellation has 92 6. ZACYNTHUS (zANTE). been derived. But names of places are generally assigned in consequence of some peculiarity existing in the sites themselves. It may be shown from numerous examples—such as Mount Cyntlius in Delos, and Ara-cynthus, the mountain of AEtolia,—that Cyntlius in the early Greek language was a general term for a hill. Looking therefore at these two hills before us (Mount Skopos and the Castlehill), and the town placed between them, we prefer to go no further than the immediate neighbourhood of Zacynthus for what it so well supplies, namely, the reason of its own designa¬ tion, which we may compare with that of Za-longos, a woody mountain of Epirus between INTicopolis and Arta.” Thucydides (ii. 66) acquaints us that at a later period Zacynthus received a colony of Achseans from the Pelopon¬ nesus. Herodotus (vi. 70) relates that Demaratus, the exiled king of Sparta, took refuge here from the persecution of his enemies, who, crossing over from the mainland, seized him and his re¬ tinue ; when the Zacvnthians, with a hospitality which still distinguishes these islanders, refused to deliver him up, and enabled him to make good his escape to the court of Persia. Not long before the Peloponnesian war, the island was reduced by the Athenian general Tolmides, from which period we find Zacynthus, like most other states of Ionian race, generally allied with, or rather dependent upon Athens. It was attacked by the Peloponnesians, but unsuccessfully (Thucyd.,ii. 66 ; vii. 57). At a much later period it fell into the hands of Philip III., King of Mace¬ donia (Polyb. v. 4) ; and during the second Punic War it was occupied by the Romans. On this occasion the chief town, bearing the same name with the island, was captured, with the excep¬ tion of the citadel, called Psophis, pro¬ bably after an Arcadian city, of which the reputed founder, Zacynthus, was a native. It is likely that this citadel occupied the site of the modern Castle. Diodorus (xv. 362) mentions another fort called Arcadia in the island. Za¬ cynthus was, however, afterwards re- Sect. I. stored to Philip, and he placed there as governor Hierocles of Agrigentum, who sold the island to the Achseans, anxious, perhaps, to recover their old colony. On its being claimed by the Romans, the Achseans, after some demur, gave it up, B.c. 191, and Zacynthus henceforward seems to have followed the fortunes of the Roman Empire (Livy, xxxvi. 31, 32). There is an improbable story, founded on an inscription said to have been discovered on an ancient sepulchre, that this island was the burial-place of Cicero. The beauty and fertility of Zacynthus, and the picturesque situation of its ca¬ pital on the margin of its semicircular bay, have been celebrated in all ages, from Theocritus (Idyl., iv. 32) to the modern Italian proverb which pro¬ nounces the island to be “ the Elower of the Levant “ Zante, Zante, Fior di Levante.” Pliny and Strabo have also expatiated on the richness of its woods and har¬ vests, and on the magnificence of its city. The former writer estimates the circumference of the island at 36 Roman miles ; the latter at only 160 stadia. Perhaps Strabo’s measurements seem so frequently erroneous, owing to mis¬ takes having arisen in transcribing the letters of the Greek alphabet which represented his numbers. If we except a few columns and in¬ scriptions, discovered at various periods, nothing now remains of the ancient splendour of Zacynthus; as indeed is often the case wherever a modern town has sprung up, the remains of antiquity having been used as a quarry for the more recent buildings. But the cele¬ brated Pitch wells are a natural pheno¬ menon, which may be regarded as among the antiquities of the island, since they are mentioned by Herodotus, Pausanias, Pliny, and other ancient authors. Dur¬ ing the constant changes of men and states around, Eternal Nature still as¬ serts her identity here; and the de¬ scription of Herodotus (iv. 195), written 2300 years ago, is not inappropriate at Ionian Islands. 93 6. ZACYNTHUS (zANTE). the present day: “ In Zaeynthus I myself have seen pitch springing up continually out of a pool of water. Now there are several pools in tins place; the largest being 70 feet in circumfer¬ ence, and two fathoms in depth. Into this the people let down a pole with a branch of myrtle fastened at its end; and so they bring up the pitch. It has a bituminous smell, but in all other respects is better than the pitch of Pieria. They pour it into a trench dug near the pool, and when they have col¬ lected a considerable quantity they re¬ move it from the trench into jars. Whatever falls into the pool passes un¬ derground, and is again seen in the sea, which is at the distance of four fur¬ longs.” These pitch-wells are situated near the shore of the Bay of Chieri, about 12 miles from the town. They are now the great resort of pic-nic parties. For the first six miles an excellent carriage road crosses the plain; the remainder of the journey is by a bridle path through olive-groves and vineyards. In a little marshy valley, far from any dwelling of man, the springs are found. They are two ; the principal surrounded by a low wall;—here the pitch is seen bubbling up under the clear water, which is about a foot deep over the pitch itself, with which it comes out of j the earth. The pitch-bubbles rise with the appearance of an India-rubber bottle until the air within bursts, and the pitch falls back and runs off. It produces about three barrels a day, and can be used when mixed with pine-pitch, though in a pure state it is compara¬ tively of no value. The other spring is in an adjoining vineyard; but the pitch does not bubble up, and is, in fact, only discernible by the ground having a burnt appearance, and by the feet ad¬ hering to the surface as one walks over it. The demand for the pitch of Zante is now very small; vegetable pitch being preferable. In another part of the island there is a small cave on the sea-shore, from the sides of which drips an unctuous oily matter, which, running into the water, gives it the name of the Talloio Well , or Grease Spring. A full, scientific account of these curious natural pheno¬ mena will be found in Dr. Davy’s Notes, &c., vol. i. chap. 4. The pitch-wells are, perhaps, a sign of the volcanic agency so continually at work hi the Ionian Islands and in the same latitudes of Italy and Sicily. It would appear that severe earthquakes are likely to recur in Zante about once hi twenty years. That of December 29, 1820, was the most serious within living memory ; the walls of the most solid buildings were then shattered, and every quarter of the town was filled with ruins : 80 houses were ahnost totally destroyed, nearly 1000 were more or less injured ; and from 30 to 40 persons were killed or manned. Again, on October 30, 1840, the island suffered from a severe shock, by which 8 persons lost their lives. With regard to the modem annals of Zante there is little to say, except that this island passed through similar vicis¬ situdes with its neighbours ; until, like them, it fell under the Venetians. At that period it seems to have been nearly depopulated ; and a large portion of its present inhabitants are descended from settlers brought subsequently from the Peloponnesus, and from the Christian families which emigrated from Cyprus and Crete, when those islands were con¬ quered by the Turks. In the dearth of more striking events, it may be worth while to mention that in a.d. 1564 the celebrated Vesalius, who did for ana¬ tomy what Copernicus did for astro¬ nomy, perished by shipwreck on the coast of Zante. After living for some years as their physician at the courts of Charles V. and Philip II. of Spain, he met with a strange reverse, highly cha¬ racteristic of the country and of the age. Being absurdly accused of having dissected a Spanish gentleman before he was dead, Vesalius escaped capital punishment — to which he was con¬ demned at the instigation of the In¬ quisition, who viewed with horror all such uses of the human body—only by undertaking a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, during which he was shipwrecked on 94 Sect. I. 6. ZACY1VTHTJS (ZANTE). Zante. (See Hallam’s Literature of Europe, yol. i. p. 456.) The small French garrison then hold¬ ing the island surrendered to the Eng¬ lish in the autumn of 1809. During the war of the Greek revolution, some of the chief families of Zante and Cepha- lonia distinguished themselves by their noble efforts in behalf of the national cause, and, in particular, by supplying with provisions and ammunition the gal¬ lant defenders of Mesolonglii. “ When its catastrophe was published at Zante,” says General Gordon (book v. chap. 2), “ the population of every class appeared in deep mourning, and manifested as profound affliction as though some cala¬ mity had visited their own island.” Zante in size and dignity ranks after Corfu and Cephalonia. Nearly one-lialf of the population live in the capital, which, in modern as in ancient times, bears the same name with the island. The houses stretch along the semicir¬ cular outline of the bay to the distance of a mile and a half; but the breadth of the town nowhere exceeds 300 yards, except where, in one quarter, it extends up the slope of the Castle-hill. Some of the older houses are built in the picturesque Venetian style, and, from Zante never having been walled in, they are not inconveniently crowded toge¬ ther, as at Corfu. The colonnades, lining some of the streets, will remind the traveller of Bologna. As to modern buildings, the Venetian architecture is now everywhere gone out in Greece ; and neither the gay and, in this climate, agreeable Turkish house—with its long, open galleries, painted wood-work and Oriental tracery,—nor the Italian colon¬ nade—a protection against both the rain and the sun,—are in use : happily the red brick of England is also absent. The houses are substantially built of stone, and in a style which is rather modern German than anything else, particularly at Athens. Formerly, the windows in Zante were generally fitted with huge lattices of wooden frame¬ work, resembling those employed in the harems of the East, and contrived for the same purpose, namely, the conceal¬ ment of the women from the gaze of strangers. The seclusion of unmarried females from society still prevails here to a great extent, as also in the other islands ; although the example of the English is fast removing the blinds and duennas. From being generally richer, and inhabiting better houses, the Zantiot gentlemen are the most hospitable and convivial of the Ionians. They are fonder, too, of a country-life than their neighbours; and thus their villas, or casinos, being more frequently visited by their owners, are better furnished and more convenient than those of the other islands. The harbour of Zante has been greatly improved of late years. It is now pro¬ tected by a long mole, but is still some¬ what exposed, and is far less secure than the ports of Cephalonia and Ithaca. At the inland extremity of the mole is a sort of esplanade, the usual promenade of the inhabitants. Here is a monu¬ mental bust of Sir T. Maitland, correctly portraying his stern but penetrating and commanding features. There is now in Zante an English chaplain, paid partly by the military authorities and partly by subscription. Previously to 1849 the English in this island were only occasionally visited by the chaplain from Cephalonia, as is still the case with regard to Santa Maura and Ithaca. As in Corfu and Cepha¬ lonia, there are a few Roman Catholic families, chiefly descended from Italian settlers. Greek, churches are numerous, and several of them are richly orna¬ mented, particularly that containing the shrine of St. Dionysius, the patron saint of the island. The tutelar’s festival is celebrated on December 17, O. S. He was a native of Zante, where he died a.d. 1624, after having been for many years Archbishop of iEgina. St. Dio¬ nysius of Zante must not be confounded with St. Dionysius the Areopagite, con¬ verted by the preaching of St. Paul at Athens, or with St. Dionysius the Martyr, who suffered under Decius in a.d. 250, or with St. Dionysius of Ephesus, all of whom have also festivals appointed in the Greek calendar. Ionian Islands. 95 6. ZACYNTHUS(ZAXTeV Travellers sliould by no means omit the ascent of the Castle-hill of Zante, which rises 350 feet above the sea. A winding road leads to the gate, and leave j to enter is readily granted. The Eng- j lish garrison usually consists of the head-quarters of a regiment of the hue, and of a detachment of artillery. A rampart, chiefly of Venetian construe-1 tion, and nowhere very strong, surrounds an area of 12 or 14 acres on the flat top of the hill, containing barracks, a mess-room, ordnance storehouses, &c. During the insecurity of former centu- j ries, the residences of the principal | Zantiots were in the castle ; but they j have long since removed into the town below, and their houses have been de¬ stroyed by earthquakes and military engineers. The whole eastern side of the Castle-hill—elsewhere a mass of groves, houses, and gardens, in the most picturesque confusion—has been disfi¬ gured by a vast landslip, caused some centuries back by an earthquake, and perhaps concealing from sight many a relic of antiquity. The view from the Castle is very ex¬ tensive and interesting, though inferior to the prospect from the Convent which covers the neighbouring Mount Skopos, and which is also accessible on horseback. To the E. spreads the long line of the coast of Greece from Meso- longlii to Navarino, backed by the lofty mountains of Acamania and iEtolia, of Arcadia and Messenia. On the nearest comer of the Peloponnesus, and at the distance of little more than 15 miles from Zante, is situated the ruinous me¬ dieval fortress and village of Clarenza ; and the harbour below it was the Cyl- lene of the ancients, the port of Ehs. A little farther to the S. rises a round hi l l , crowned with another decayed fortress, CastelTomese, the name again marking it as the work of one of the Latin nobles who dismembered the By¬ zantine empire in a.d. 1204. The French form of Clarenza is Clarence; the daughter of one of its lords married into the Hainault family ; and Philippa, the heiress of that house, having espoused King Edward III. of England, brought the title into our Royal Family. So at least it was long and generally asserted and believed ; but the story is discredited by Colonel Leake, who re¬ marks ( Peloponnesiaca , p. 212) that “an unfounded opinion has long prevailed, and has been repeated by some of the latest travellers, that the name of the English dukedom of Clarence was de¬ rived from Clarenza. But there can be no question that Clarentia or Clarencia was the district of Clare in Suffolk. The title was first given, in 1362, by Edward III. to his third son Lionel, when the latter succeeded to the estates of Gilbert, Earl of Clare and Glou¬ cester.” The traveller can easily procure a boat at Zante to cross over to Clarenza, or any other point along the neigh¬ bouring coast, whence horses can be taken on to Patras. In winter there is excellent woodcock shooting on the way. Mount Skopos—a name correspond¬ ing to the Italian Belvedere —raises its curiously jagged summit to the height of 1300 feet above the eastern extremity of the Bay of Zante. It is possibly of volcanic origin—the extinct Vesuvius of this miniature Naples. Its ancient name was Mount Elatus, whence it would appear to have been of old covered with pines. These have now disap¬ peared,but its numerous groves of olives, almonds, and orange-trees still entitle Zante to the Homeric and Virgilian epithets of “ woody.” At the distance of about 10 miles towards the N., Ce- phalonia rises abruptly from the sea, with its gloomy Black Mountain, the .ZEnos of Strabo, gut with pine forests. The end of the bay opposite to Mount Skopos is formed by a line of broken and wooded cliffs, gay with villas, orchards, and vineyards, and called Akroteria (Axgurrigta.), a name which recalls many impressions of classical times and language. But the great ad¬ mixture of Italian words in the Greek spoken by the townspeople of the lower classes in Zante, and the other Ionian capitals, is provoking to a scholar, who seeks in the modern tongue the remains 96 Sect. I. 6. ZACYNTHUS (ZANTE). of the language of his early study and veneration, and who, in the country districts, will hear from every peasant phrases which have hitherto been known to him only in the society of the learned and in the writings of antiquity. From the western ramparts of the Castle, we look down on the extensive plain, which, stretching from sea to sea, forms the most important and richest district of the island. It varies in breadth from 6 to 8 miles, and is bor¬ dered on the east, as we have seen, by Mount Skopos, the Castle-hill, and Akroteria;—on the west, by a parallel range of hills, more uniform in their outline, and lining the western coast of the island. Here are scattered many small convents and villages, many of which are well worthy of a visit, from the beauty of their situations. The plain of Zante forms the principal sup¬ port of the population, and is a source of considerable wealth to the island. In these parts John Bull is almost looked upon as an animal that must eat plum- puddings or die:—“We pray daily,” once remarked a fair Zantiot to an English traveller, “ that your country¬ men may never lose this taste, for then we should indeed be ruined.” The en¬ tire plain has the appearance of an almost continuous vineyard of that dwarf grape (Vitis Corintliiaca) so well known in England under the name of Zante currants —a corruption of the French term raisins de Corinthe, this fruit having been earliest and most extensively cultivated near Corinth. There are a few intervals of corn and pasture-land; but the island is supplied by importation with the larger portion of its grain and cattle. Besides cur¬ rants, Zante also exports a small quan¬ tity of oil and wine. The olive-trees are pruned and cultivated regularly; and therefore, though not so picturesque, are at least more uniformly productive than those of Corfu. The white wine called Verdea is better than the best Marsala, and nearly approaches in flavour to Madeira. Zante and Cepba- lonia enjoyed an almost complete mono¬ poly of the currant trade during the war of Independence in Greece, when the vineyards on the mainland were laid waste by the contending armies. But they have been replanted since the return of peace, and are rapidly increas¬ ing along the whole coast from Patras to Corinth. Hence the fruit trade of the Ionian Islands is now very much depressed in comparison with its state 25 years ago, and the prices have sunk to nearly one-third of their former amount. Zante is especially delightful in spring, when the fragrance of the flowering vineyards, orange-trees, and gardens floats for miles over the surrounding sea. The vintage takes place in August and early in September; and the aspect of the plain is then very rich and beau¬ tiful, with the ripe fruit deliciously cooling to the taste, and in clusters, half grape, half currant, glowing purple- red among the russet foliage. It will not be inappropriate to conclude this account of the island with a short sketch of the mode of cultivating its staple produce. The currant-vine re¬ quires careful pruning and dressing during the winter and spring. The vintage is a very interesting and im¬ portant period to the Zantiot; and the rich proprietors then take up their abode in their country villas to superintend the crop, on which they principally depend. Every vineyard is carefully protected by au armed watchman, for whom a sort of guard-liouse is con¬ structed of interlaced branches of trees, covered with leaves or thatch, and some¬ times elevated on poles. When the fruit is fully ripe, it is gathered and spread out for three weeks to dry on levelled areas prepared for this purpose on every estate. Much depends upon the process of drying ; a shower of rain will often dimmish by one-half the value of the crop, and a second ruin it alto¬ gether. When dried by the sun and air, the currants are transported to the city, and stored up in magazines called Seraglie, whence they are shipped for exportation—chiefly to England. Sir Charles Napier gives an amusing and instructive account of the frauds often Ionian Islands. 97 7 . CTTIIE practised on the peasants by the Sera- glianti, as tbe proprietors of these magazines are called. (See Napier’s Colonies, &c., chap. 46.) The Strophades (in Italian Strivalf) are dependent on Zante, and situated in the Ionian Sea about 40 miles to the south of it. They are two low, barren islets, the larger of which is rather more than 3 miles in circumference, and is in¬ habited only by about 30 G-reek monks, who dwell in a Convent, the foundation of which is ascribed to one of the Byzantine Emperors. These islets were celebrated in antiquity as the fabled abode of the Harpies. (See Tim. iEn iii. 209.) 6 ’ 7. Cytheba (Cebigo), Cerigo, the Italian appellation of Cy- thera, is conjectured by Colonel Leake to be a softened form of Tzerigo, the name, probably, of a Slavonian chief¬ tain, who may have seized this island at the period when the neighbouring Pelo¬ ponnesus was overrun by those bar¬ barians. In remote antiquity it was called Porphyris, from a shell-fish, pro¬ ducing the red Tyrian dye, being found on its shores, or, according to other authorities, from the existence of por¬ phyry among its rocks. The name of Cythera is, however, at least as old as the tune of Homer. This island is cele¬ brated in mythology as having received Venus when she arose from the ocean. It was to that goddess what Delos was to Latona, and was fabled to he her favourite abode. Pausanias (Lacon. 33) has recorded the magnificence of her shrine in Cythera. Some slight remains ot antiquity are still pointed out, but -rcuthout any certainty as to the situation ot this temple. In historical times Cythera was gene¬ rally a dependency of the Spart ans, who classed its inhabitants with the Periceei and sent thither yearly a magistrate’ named Cytherodices, to administer ius- tice The possession of the island was held to be of great importance in the days of timid navigation; and so it would be again, did it possess a harbour fit to afford security to the vessels of Greece . RA (CERIGO). | the present day. In the middle ages it was called the “ Lantern of the Arclii- | pelago.” Herodotus informs us that Demaratus recommended Xerxes to oc- I cupy Cythera with a fleet during the Persian war, quoting the opinion of Chilon, the Lacedaemonian Sage, who had declared that it would be a great benefit to Sparta if tliis island were sunk in the sea. These apprehensions were realized during the Peloponnesian war, when Cythera was conquered by the Athenians under Nicias; and the Spartans were greatly annoyed by the hostile garrison so near their coast. The island was surrendered to its former possessors at the peace of b.c. 421. In after ages its fortunes have been similar to those of the other Ionian isles. The principal town also bore of old the name of Cythera, and was situated, as we gather from Thucydides and Pau¬ sanias, on the side facing Cape Malea, at the distance of about 10 stadia from the sea. The chief harbour was called Scandea, and is probably identical with that of St. Nicholas, on the E. coast, where the best anchorage is now found, or with the port of Kapsali. The port of Phcenieus, mentioned by Xenophon (Hell. iv. 8), answers possibly to the roadstead of Auldmona. The name Phcenieus was obviously derived from that Phoenician colony which (Herod, i. 105) imported into Cythera the worship of the Syrian Venus, by the Greeks surnamed Urania. The whole circuit of Cerigo being very deficient in har¬ bours, there is no point on the coast at which it is so probable that the Phoeni¬ cians should have landed as in the sheltered creek of Aulemona, which may itself be an ancient term ( [<£u\rpt>jv , from av\o;, in allusion to its long narrow form, bordered by steep rocks). And the appearance of some ruins at Taleo- polis, about 3 miles inland, is equally in agreement with the conjecture of remote antiquity. . The length of Cerigo, from N. to S., is 20 miles; the greatest breadth 12 miles. The surface of the island is rocky, mountainous, and mostly uncul¬ tivated ; but some parts of it produce F 98 Sect. I. 7. C’YTHERA (CERIGO). com, wine, and olive oil. The honey of Cerigo is particularly esteemed. [Numbers of the peasants resort annu¬ ally to Greece and Asia Minor to work at the harvest, returning home with the fruits of them labour. They still deserve the character of industry and frugality assigned by Heraclides Ponticus to the natives of Cythera. In fact the cha¬ racter of the people is a necessary con¬ sequence of the rocky soil on which they dwell. The shores are abrupt; the neighbouring sea is much disturbed by currents; and severe storms are fre¬ quent. The chief town, or rather vil¬ lage, is Kapsali, near the S. extremity of the island. It stands on a narrow ridge 500 yards in length, terminating at the S.E. end in a precipitous rock, crowned with a mediaeval castle, which is accessible only on the side towards the town by a steep and winding path, but is commanded by a conical height at the opposite end of the ridge. The English garrison consists of a sub¬ altern’s detachment, which is usually relieved every six months. It is, of course, a very solitary station. There is excellent quail-shooting in spring and autumn, The principal curiosities of Cerigo are two natural caverns ; one in the sea- cliff at the termination of the wild, and, in some places, beautiful glen of Mylo- potamos, deriving its name from the stream flowing through it, which is made to work several small corn-mills. The other is known as the cave of Sta. Sophia, from the dedication of a chapel at its mouth, and is situated in a valley about two hours’ ride from Kapsali. Both caverns possess some stalactites of singular beauty, and are well worthy of a visit. The little island to the S.E. of Cerigo, called Cerigotto by the Italians, is now known as Lius to its inhabitants, though its ancient name was iEgilia, as we learn from Pliny (Ilist. Nat. iv. 12). It is a dependency of Cerigo, and is situated nearly midway between that island and Crete, being about 20 miles from either. It contains 40 families, and produces good wheat, of which a portion, in favourable years, is exported. The port is bad, and open to the N. The small islet, named Porri by the Italians, lying to the N. of Cerigotto, is called Pra- sonisi by the Greeks. Full information concerning the claim to the islands of Cervi and Sapienza, advanced by England on behalf of the Ionian government, will be found in a pamphlet, published by Colonel Leake, under the above title, in 1850. That first-rate authority considers the pre¬ ponderance of right to be on the side of the kingdom of Greece, which still, as the English claim has never been en¬ forced, retains possession of the dis¬ puted territory ; so far at least as any power can be said to hold two rugged and barren islets, inhabited only by a few shepherds. The whole question turns on the point whether or not Cervi and Sapienza belonged to Venice pre¬ viously to 1797; for the treaties con¬ stituting the Septinsular republic as¬ sign to it only the ex-Venetian islands. Sapienza (one of the ancient GSnussae) as commanding the harbour of Methone in Messenia, and Cervi as commanding the bay of Vatika, are both, however, of some maritime importance ; and especi¬ ally the latter, owing to the difficulty and danger which now, as of old, so often attends the circumnavigation of Cape Malea. Cervi, or Stag Island (EAaipavsw), was anciently a promontory of Laconia, named Onugnathus, and is now separated from the mainland only by a shallow strait of about 400 yards across, where the sea has gained upon the shore. Ships are often wind-bound here for weeks together, whence arose the proverbial expression of the ancient Greeks, “ After doubling Cape Malea forget your native country.” (Cf. Strabo viii., Herod, iv. 179, Thucyd. iv. 53, &c.) Cervi is distant about 5 miles from the northern extremity of Cerigo. The bay of Vatika (B oianx£) is so called from a corruption of the name of the ancient Laconian town ofBoeoe, of which some remains may still be seen near its shore. The whole district was called in the Doric dialect Bontrixd ; and this name has been shortened into SECTION II. KINGDOM OF GREECE. Special Introductory Information. Climate, Soil, S(c .— Inns and Aecomrnoda- 1. Historical Sketch and actual Condition, Sfc .—2. 3- Packets. —4. Money. —5. Shops, Servants, aud several others, were successively TnEn ft lmgt ! 1 Tr C aIht i a offered the new crown to Prince Leopold of Saxe ? pr , g /. afte ^ va f ds of the Belgians), who, after some hesitation, finally aUefe ? ng a . s , hls . m °tiYes the unwillingness of the Greeks to receive a, and their dissatisfaction at the confined boundaries assigned to them. The rmt nrt^T rS t0 mJ hat C f u ^ t , Ca P° d ’ Istria repaid the slight which had been P f 111111 and th ® r ® st . of the Greeks, m not consulting them in the negotia¬ tion, by exaggerating to Prince Leopold the difficulties which awaited him? At tenured,f nftW f'' I’ reside “ t g a med his point in the prolongation of his own tenure of office for a period apparently indefinite f SU “u° nmg a Nati0nal As9C mbly Capo d’Istria occasioned general discontent, and there were several insurrections against his authority. F 2 100 1. HISTORICAL SKETCH, ACTUAL CONDITION, ETC. Sect. II. He became, moreover, peculiarly obnoxious to several of tlie restless military chiefs of the late War of Independence, who found their importance diminished under the new system. A conspiracy was formed against him by the family of Pietro Mauromicliali, the well-known Bey of Maina ; and he was assassinated by two members of that clan on October 9, 1831, at Nauplia, which was then the seat of government. The conspirators chose for the execution of their plot a visit of the President to the church of St. Spiridion, the Patron-Saint of Corfu, his native island. They awaited his arrival at the gate, and as he was entering the church George Mauromicliali stabbed him in the side, while Constantine shot him in the back. He expired almost immediately,* and one of the assassins was killed on the spot by the soldiers on guard. The other escaped for the moment, but being shortly afterwards arrested, was shot by sentence of a court- martial. The prompt movements of the party of the President secured their power for a season, and liis brother, Count Augustine Capo d’lstria, assumed the reins of government for a short period. But he soon felt himself obliged to relinquish his authority, and retire from Greece. After much deliberation the election of the Three Powers finally fell on Prince Otho, a younger son of the King of Bavaria, who was proclaimed on August 30, 1832, at Nauplia, where he arrived in the beginning of the following year. It was provided that King Otho should be of age on completing his eighteenth year, that is, in June, 1835 ; and that three Bavarian councillors, appointed as a Regency, should govern during his minority. It was also provided that a corps of regular Bavarian troops, armed, equipped, and paid by the Greek state, should be maintained until the organization of a national army. Moreover the Allies guaranteed to the new government of Greece a loan of 60 millions of francs (about 240,000/.). On attaining his majority King Otho declined to establish a representative form of government, and continued to govern mildly but absolutely, assisted by a Council «f State appointed by himself. In 1836 he contracted a marriage with the Princess Amelia, a daughter of the Duke of Oldenburg. He has never had any issue ; and it is now settled that his successor is to be another Prince of the House of Bavaria, who has engaged to adopt on his accession the creed of the Greek Church, according to the provisions of the constitution of 1843. The obtaining of a constitutional form of government was effected by perhaps the most peaceable and well-ordered revolution recorded in all history. On Sept. 3 (15), 1843, the constitutional party having matured then.' plans, and having gained the army and the great mass of the population to their cause, surrounded the Palace at Athens with a body of troops, and firmly but respectfully required King Otho to sign the Charter which they offered him, or to quit Greece im¬ mediately and for ever. A vessel was prepared to convey the Sovereign and Court to Germany, in ease of refusal; but not a drop of blood was spilt on either side. After a parley and hesitation of several hours, the King gave way, and signed the Constitutional Charter, which, among many other provisions, established a representative government, and enforced the dismissal from the Greek service of the Bavarian officers and soldiers, and of all other foreigners,, with the exception of such as had taken a share in the War of Independence. Since 1843 there have been several local insurrections and disturbances in various parts of Greece; but tlie event most interesting to Englishmen has, probably, been the blockade of the Greek Ports, in the spring of 1850, by the British fleet, in consequence of the refusal of King Otho’s government to liquidate the claims advanced by several British and Ionian subjects for com¬ pensation for various losses and injuries. The blockade lasted rather more * Count Capo d'lstria was interred in the burying-place of his family—the chapel of a small convent in one of the suburbs of the town of Corfu, where a short Greek Inscription marks his grave. Kingdom of Greece. 1. historical sketch, actual condition, etc. 101 than 3 months, when the Greek Ministry at length conceded the points in dis¬ pute. The policy of Lord Palmerston, then Foreign Secretary, on this occasion was violently assailed m England, and the debates on the question in both Houses oi .Parliament will amply repay perusal. stituted^ 0 ^ 01 ^^ ^ a S ^ etC ^ tbe ^reek Government as at present con- The Legislature is composed of the King, with his Executive Council of Ministers, a Senate (Tspootna), and a Representative Assembly (BovX*). TJe Kmg enjoys by the Charter the usual privileges of Constitutional Sovereigns. The Senators are named by the King, and hold their office for life forming the Upper House of Parliament. The Assembly is composed of the Deputies elected by the various towns and districts of the kingdom. Greece is divided into 10 Names (»«>*), answering to the Departments of France, and each of these is presided over by a Nomarch (N ou.xp x *;), an officer corresponding to a French Prefet. They are as follows Nome. Northern Greece :— 1. Attica and Boeotia . 2. Phocis and Pthiotis 3. .ZEtolia and Acamania Peloponnesus :— 4. Argohs and Corinth 5. Achaia and Elis . . 6. Arcadia. 7. Messenia .... 8. Laconia . Islands :— 9. Eubcea and North Sporades 10. Cyclades. Chief Town. Athens . . . Lamia (Zeitun) Mesolonghi . . Nauplia . , Patras . , Tripolitza Kalamata Sparta Chalcis . . . , Hermopolis (Syra) Population (1853). Total Population . 88,275 80,693 98,060 106,162 116,757 115,711 98,139 86,899 64,821 134,856 990,373 • + The 10 R°mes are subdivided into 30 Eparchies (Ev*p r j ai ), an d these a^ain Cantol^T\ C r' DemeS ^visions which correspond respectively to of^tfhTfT-^ PUbUC ' 1 r , e ™ e 0f Greece is derived the tithe or tax percent oft! 4 produce paid by all private lands, and from the fourth, or 25 ports 2d 2n^rtf ^enarional domains - The re are also duties on im- h - , ports, cattle, salt, &c., as also on stamps, &c. It is very difficult to coCtta rfSTlT? 0t a P fl * b > e Greece, for t Z ofthe collectors, and other financial officers, is general and notorious - fa l 1S conside rably short of half a million sterling annually S FrIZT* f i the ™ terest of the national debt, consisting chiefly of loans con- ££ X£sr ntee of tte ^ Po ™ s - f»™» ■ 4 >4 mZlTZf lZ ° f the k i ngd ? m , 0f Greece is stm in the main the bitten in{^ T N /“^’ an ab ridgment of the Basilica, written in a.d 134o, by the Byzantine Armenopoulos. This is also the manual by which the bishops and primates of the Rayah Greeks, who are had recourse to 102 1. HISTORICAL SKETCH, ACTUAL CONDITION, ETC. Sect. II. by tlieir co-religionaries oftener than the Turkish Cadis, guide their decisions ; a circumstance that must prove a no less powerful link than identity of language, race, and creed, in connecting the G-reeks of the Christian kingdom with their brethren under the Ottoman dominion. The criminal, commercial, and correc¬ tional codes of Greece were drawn up by M. von Maurer, one of the Bavarian Council of Regency, and are founded on the Code Napoleon. The military code of Greece is likewise adopted from that of France. Besides the High Court of Appeal and Cassation at Athens, dignified with the time-honoured title of Areopagus, there are Corn’ts of Assize and primary jurisdiction in the chief towns of the 10 Nomes or departments, and various inferior tribunals. Trial by jury has been introduced in most cases ; but the juries are said to be generally much too indulgent from fear of the vengeance of the friends of the party accused. The Justices of the Peace (E ipvvollxtzi), miserably paid, and seldom chosen from the higher classes of society, are stated frequently to combine the worst features in the character of the most disreputable attorneys and stupidest country magistrates in England. As is also the case in almost all countries except England, the government, and not the injured individual, prosecutes the criminal, according to the report of the Juge d' Instruction (A.vax,pirvs), who first examines generally the witnesses and evidence. In the Ionian Islands always, but not now universally in Greece, judicial oaths are administered by a priest in full robes, and with much solemnity, the whole court standing up during the ceremony—a sight much more edifying than the irreverent want of solemnity with which this function is performed by an inferior officer in English courts. As to the question how far the Greek judges administer justice uprightly, the sweeping charges of general corruption brought against them are false or exaggerated, though their salaries are so miserably insufficient, that the natural inference is, that they must have other sources of profit. Peligion .—Full religious toleration is guaranteed by the Constitution of 1843. With the exception of about 15,000 Latins, or Roman Catholics, including Rin g Otho and Iris suite (the Queen being a Lutheran), and about 4000 Jews, the whole people of Greece belongs to the National Greek Church. The few Latins still remaining are chiefly found in some of the HCgean islands, and are descended from the Genoese and Venetian settlers of the Middle Ages. The University and Ecclesiastical Seminary at Athens are now causing a rapid improvement; but the Greek clergy are, generally speaking, poor and illiterate; their habits, however, are said to be simple and exemplary. Monasteries are now by no means so numerous in the Hellenic kingdom as in the Ionian Islands and in the Turkish provinces. In 1829, under the government of Capo d’lstria, above 300 of the smaller convents were abolished and their revenues secularized; nearly 100 still remain, with a total of from 1500 to 2000 inmates. The doctrines of the Church of the kingdom of Greece are identical with those professed by the Holy Eastern Church (General Introduction, m) ; but since the Revolution it has been independent of the Patriarch of Constantinople, and, as is also the case in Russia, is governed by a Synod of its own Bishops. The war of Freedom was a war of Religion also; and the murder of Gregory, the Patriarch of Constantinople, by the Turks on the outbreak of the revolt in 1821, excited the insurgents to fury. But the succeeding Patriarch found himself in a false position. Sympathising with the movement, he was compelled by the Turks to anathematise it; and thus the Greeks were forced to look upon theh Primate as the tool of the enemies of their faith and liberty. When the independence of Greece had been achieved, a fruitless negotiation took place between Capo d’lstria and the Patriarchal throne; and by an official paper, dated June, 1828, the new Hellenic government declined to treat with the Patriarch on the former terms of submission. In July, 1833, a National Synod was held at Nauplia, when the two following propositions were approved by 36 Greek Prelates : — Kingdom of Greece. 1 . historical sketch, actual condition, etc 103 1. The Church of Greece, which spiritually owns no head but Jesus Christ, is dependent on no external authority, and preserves unbroken dogmatic unity with all the Eastern Orthodox Churches. With respect to the administration of the Church, she acknowledges the King of Greece as her supreme head, as is in nothing contrary to the Holy Canons. 2. A permanent Synod shall be established, consisting entirely of Bishops selected by the King. This is to be the highest ecclesiastical authority, after the model of the Russian Church. The Synod of Nauplia further resolved on eventually reducing the Greek Sees from about 40 to 10, co-extensive with the Homes, or chief civil divisions of the kingdom. But this arrangement gave rise to great discontent, and was never carried out. The Patriarch refused to acknowledge the independence of the Greek Church; it was not thought advisable to consecrate other Bishops without his sanction; and at one period the Greek Hierarchy seemed likely to die out. However, negotiations were set on foot with the Patriarchal tin-one hi the early part of 18o0; and on June 29 (July 11) his Holiness and the Synod of Con¬ stantinople issued a Synodal Tome whereby they finally recognized the Church of Greece as independent or autocephalous (uiroxitfiuXos). Tliis act of unity is an unspeakable blessing for the whole Eastern Church; and it is to be fervently hoped that it will not be disturbed hereafter. The number of Bishops in the kingdom of Greece is at present to be 24; but it is understood that it will eventually be 36. These Prelates are elected by the clergy of their respective dioceses; but the King has a power of interference nearly, if not quite equivalent in practice to the royal conge d'elire in England, like the Emperor of Russia, the King of Greece is the titular head of the Church; the affairs of which are conducted by the Holy Synod of the Kingdom of Greece , winch sits at Athens and is composed of five Bishops, taken in order of seniority in consecration (m™ re vgitrfZAa), and assisted by a Royal Commis¬ sioner and a Secretary. Titles of Honour. —No hereditary titles are recognised or exist in Greece, except in the person of the King. There are two Orders of Knighthood; that of the “ Holy Saviour,” and the “ Order of Meritthe latter being chiefly intended for military and naval officers and other deserving public servants. Public Instruction. —No such thing as public instruction for the Christian population can be said to have existed in Greece before the Revolution. The few schools which had been founded at Joannina in Epirus and elsewhere, were the offspring of private munificence; but it is greatly to the credit of the Greek insurgents that one of their first objects on the establishment of a regular govern¬ ment was the providing of such means of general education as were practicable during the continuance of the war of independence. Public instruction was also judiciously encouraged by the administration of Count Capo d’lstria. In the early part of King.Otho’s reign an edict was issued for the establishment of elementary schools in every deme, or commune, throughout Greece; and though tins law, like most other useful measures throughout Greece, has never been tuily earned into effect, yet instruction is very widely diffused. So great is the thirst tor information among the Greek people, that there were at first many instances of the sons of the poorer classes serving gratuitously as domestics in he towns, on condition that they should be allowed to spend a portion of then- time in attendance at the public schools. . Besides elementary and normal schools, there are gymnasia (Tvu.va.iriu) answer¬ ing to the Colleges of France, at Athens, Nauplia, Patras, Syra, and other large towns. Of the University of Athens, founded in 1837, and of the other chief educational establishments of the Greek capital, a full account is given in xvOTTTE u. 104 1. HISTORICAL SKETCH, ACTUAL CONDITION, ETC. Sect. II. There are several scientific institutions at Athens, and several literary peri¬ odicals are published there. The Press in Greece is free from censorship, and some of the numerous Athenian journals display much talent and informa¬ tion. A considerable number of books and pamphlets, chiefly educational, theological, or translated from works written in the languages of Western Europe, are now annually published at Athens. For a sketch of the progress and present condition of the Modern Greek language see General Intro¬ duction, n. Army .—Previously to 1838, the Greek forces amounted to nearly 10,000 men; but by the present law of conscription, the army consists of 8000 men, levied by a conscription of 2000 in each year. The duration of service is fixed at four years, and all Greeks are liable to serve from the age of 18 to 30, except those claiming exemption as married men, university students, ecclesiastics, civil servants of the State, only sons, &c. Service by substitute is allowed. The troops are chiefly stationed at Athens, Uauplia, Corinth, Patras, and on the Turkish frontier. The uniform is light-blue; some of the battalions are habited in the Albanian dress. The veterans of the War of Independence have honorary rank assigned to them in the brigade called the Phalanx , which is not now on active service. The police (x^oc.is) constitute a force analogous to the French gensdarmes , and are dispersed in small bodies throughout the kingdom. Some companies of irregular troops, a sort of militia, have been raised to watch the frontiers and to suppress brigandage. Navy .—The Royal Navy of Greece numbers one steamer, a couple of corvettes, and about 20 small vessels, engaged in guarding the coasts and keeping down piracy. Poros is the Hellenic Portsmouth, and contains the government dock¬ yard, arsenal, &c. But it is in her mercantile navy and her commerce that the progress made by the Greek people since their emancipation is most conspicuous. The physical configuration of the country has admirably adapted it for trade in all ages ; and their commerce, next to their freedom, was the grand source of the renown and prosperity of the Greek states of antiquity. We have already (supra, p. 44) pointed out that the hereditary ingenuity and perseverance of the Greeks have been displayed in an extraordinary degree by the manner in which they have contrived, in about 30 years, to found and retain their present extensive traffic, and to build their great mercantile navy. Some most important facts on this subject have been embodied by Mr. Mongredien of Mark Lane, London, in his Report on the Corn Trade from the Mediterranean and Black Seas (1852). “It may not be uninteresting,” he says, “to point out that this large and increasing trade is exclusively in the hands of a small body of merchants, all con¬ nected together by the ties of nationality, of religion, and, in great measure, of Mildred. They created this cargo trade, and they probably will keep it to them¬ selves. The history, progress, and position of that small but powerful com¬ mercial phalanx, the Greek merchants, present most remarkable features. In 1820, the trade with the Levant, then of small extent, was wholly in the hands of British merchants. In that year two or three Greek houses were established in London, with moderate capitals and humble pretensions. Their operations, though at first limited, were highly successful, and received rapid development. Other Greek establishments were formed, and gradually the whole of the trade passed away from the British houses into the hands of the Greeks, who realised rapid, and in many instances colossal fortunes. The trade, which formerly was confined chiefly to the districts to which Constantinople and Smyrna formed the outlets, has now extended to the valley of the Danube, to the shores of the Black Sea, to Persia—to the vast provinces of which Aleppo and Damascus are the chief marts—to Egypt, whose powers of production and consumption have only Kingdom of Greece. 1 . historical sketch, actual condition, etc. 105 recently been stimulated into activity, and has, through the enterprise, activity and sagacity of the Greek merchants, penetrated into distant and semi-barbarian regions, where Manchester fabrics were before as unknown as the very name itself of England. The number of Greek firms engaged in this trade, and esta¬ blished in England, has increased from 5 in 1822 to about 200 in 1852. The imports and exports from and to the districts, whose trade is conducted, I might almost say monopolised, by the Greeks, amounted in 1822 to a mere trifle whereas they have now attained a magnitude which, in the scale of our dealings with foreign nations, gives that trade the third or fourth rank. A calculation lias been made that the aggregate trading capital of ah the Greek houses established here m 1822, could not much have exceeded 50,000/. There is now a single Greek firm whose yearly income is known to be more than fourfold that amount • and as to the aggregate capital now invested by the Greek merchants iu their gigantic operations, though the precise number of millions it may be difficult to fix, yet this much is certain, that many houses have large sums lying unem¬ ployed, that the field of their enterprise, large as it is, is inadequate to absorb their resources, and that branch houses are daily being founded by the Greeks in distant countries—in North and South America, in India, in Russia, &c.—iu order to utilize their redundant capital. It is only since 1846 that the Eimlish Corn-trade has attracted the attention of the Greeks. As long as the extreme fluctuations in prices incidental to the sliding-scale alternately enriched and ruined foreign importers, the Greeks were far too prudent to engage in so dan¬ gerous a trade; but when operations in foreign corn were freed by Sir R. Peel from fiscal influences, and brought within the natural conditions of legitimate commercial enterprise, the Greeks embarked with their usual energy into the trade. With exceptions too insignificant to notice, all the grain imported into the United Kingdom from the Mediterranean passes through their hands * “ It may fairly be questioned whether the system of dealing in cargoes on pas¬ sage (or still m process of loading) could have been carried out to its present extent, or m its present shape, had the importers been a mixed instead of a compact and homogeneous body like the Greeks. The yearly amount of trans¬ actions m this branch of the grain-trade is very considerable. On a rough cal¬ culation I should estimate it at 4,000,000/. per annum, and the total, since its opening seven years ago, at little short of 30,000,000/.; yet I have never heard of buyers having incurred any loss through the bad faith, dishonesty, or insolvency ot the settlers. Of the many hundreds of cargoes sold on sample (sometimes a tew grams sent over by post), exceedingly few cases are known of any claim for uitierence m quahty after amval and examination of cargo. The chief ground ot complaint has been the occasional occurrence of trifling deficiencies on the delivery of cargoes. But on the whole, the admirable manner in which so complex a system works, reflects equal credit on buyers and sellers. Notwith¬ standing the necessarily intricate nature of the transactions, the risks and nice questionsThey involve, and the reliance they necessitate on the Iona tides of both parties, litigation is unknown, and differences are always settled by either com¬ promise or arbitration.” J Character .—As to the character and manners of the inhabitants of the King¬ dom of Greece, there is little to add to what has already been said in the of the Se 6 ek m n erc^nts h0 ’E a comparatively small item in the general operations gram, a arge array of productions which they import toto England. But large ’as^slhe amount t^sTf Tlttste? fo™ S the XC nrinc d „^ ?“? ° f th «Y*P-taFions. oftLese^e^cottonm" lures oi jviancnester term the principal feature; and so extensive are the dealines of the Treet merchants m these articles that whether the advices from Manchester shall be ‘ flat ’ or ‘brisk^ frequently depends on whether < the Greeks’ are < in the market’ or not.” ’ ’ P 3 Sect. II. 106 1. HISTORICAL SKETCH, ACTUAL CONDITION, ETC. General Introduction, o. We subjoin, however, the remarks of the accom¬ plished German scholar Thiersch: “There is a tolerably marked distinction between the inhabitants of the three great divisions of the Greek kingdom— Greece north of the Isthmus, the Peloponnesus, and the Islands. The people of Northern Greece have retained a chivalrous and warlike spirit, with a sim¬ plicity of manners and mode of life which strongly remind us of the pictures of the heroic age. The soil here is very generally cultivated by Albanians and Wallachians. In Eastern Greece, Parnassus, with its natural bulwarks, is the chief place where the Hellenic race has maintained itself; the mountainous parts of Western Greece are also peopled by the Hellenic stock. In these districts the language is spoken with more purity than elsewhere. The population of the Peloponnesus consists nearly of the same races as that of Northern Greece, but the Peloponnesians have the reputation of being more ignorant and less honest. The Albanians occupy Argolis and parts of tbe ancient Corintbia and Tripbylia. Among tbe rest of the inhabitants, who all speak Greek, there are considerable social differences. The population of the towns is of a mixed character, as in Northern Greece; there is everywhere in the towns an active and intelligent body of proprietors, merchants, and artisans. The Mainotes form a separate class of the Peloponnesian population ; they are generally called Afainotes from the name of one of their districts ; but they are the descendants of the Eleuthero-Lacones, and probably of the ancient Spartans. They occupy the lofty and sterile moun¬ tains between the Gulfs of Laconia and Messenia—the representatives of a race driven from the sunny valley of the Eurotas to the bleak and inhospitable tracts of Taygetus; though the plains which are spread out below them are no longer held by a conqueror, and a large portion, of the fertile lands lies uncultivated for want of labourers. In the islands there is a singular mixture of Greeks and Albanians. The Albanians of Hydra and Spetzia have long been known as active traders and excellent mariners. The Hydriots made great sacrifices for the cause of independence in the late war; the Spetziots, more prudent and calcu¬ lating, increased their wealth and their merchant navy. The island of Syra, which has long been the centre of an active commerce, now contains a large part of tbe former population of Psara and Chios. The Psariots are an agile and handsome race, and skilful seamen; tbe Chians, following tbe habits of their ancestors, are fond of staying at home and attendingtotheir shops and mercantile speculations ; they amass wealth, hut they employ it in founding establishments of public utility, and in the education of their children. In Tenos, the peasants, who arc also the proprietors, cultivate the vine and the fig even among the most barren rocks ; in Syra, Santorm, and at Naxos, they are the tenants of a miserable race of nobility, whose origin ascends to the time of tbe Crusades, and who still retain the Latin creed of their forefathers. Besides these, there are various bodies of Suliots, of people from the heights of Olympus, Cretans, many Greek families from Asia Minor, Phanariots, and others, who have emigrated, or been driven by circumstances within the limits of the new kingdom of Greece. The Psariots are those who are supposed to have the least intermixture of foreign blood. They have the handsome and characteristic Hellenic features, as preserved in the marbles of Pliiclias and other ancient sculptors; they are ingenious, loquacious, lively to excess, active, enterprising, vapouring and disputatious. The modem Greeks, generally, are rather above the middle height and well-shaped; they have the face oval, features regular and expressive, eyes large, dark, and animated, eyebrows archod, hair long and dark, and complexions olive-coloured.” The islanders are commonly darker and of a stronger make than the rest; but the Greeks are all active, hardy, brave, and capable of enduring long privations. Generally speaking, the women of the islands and of Northern Greece are hand¬ somer than those of the Peloponnesus. The character of the Greeks has greatly Kingdom of Greece. 1 . historical sketch, actual condition, etc. 107 improved in many respects since tlieir emancipation; tlieir portrait, wliile still under tlie yoke of the Turks, was drawn in a masterly manner by the hand of Mr. Hope in Anastasius; we will quote one striking passage from that work (vol. i. pp. 78-80), premising that it has now become partly obsolete:—“The complexion of the modem Greek may receive a different cast from different srn'- rounding objects : the case is still the same as in the days of Pericles. Credulity, versatility, and the thirst of distinctions, from the earliest periods formed, still form, and ever will form, the basis of the Greek character. . . . When patriot¬ ism, public spirit, and pre-eminence in arts, science, literature, and warfare, were the road to distinction, the Greeks shone the first of patriots, of heroes, of painters, of poets, and of philosophers. Now that craft and subtlety, adulation and intrigue, are the oxdy paths to greatness, the same Greeks are—what you see them!” General Gordon * has summed up in the following manner the character of the Greeks at the commencement of the war of independence :—“ Those who are best acquainted with the Greeks, cannot fail to remark the numerous and striking features of resemblance that connect them with their ancestors: they have the same ingenious and active bent of mind, joined to a thirst of knowledge and improvement; the same emulation in their pursuits, love of novelty and adven¬ ture, vanity and loquacity, restless ambition, and subtlety. The Grecian character was, however, so long tried in the furnace of misfortune, that the sterling metal had mostly evaporated, and little but dross remained; having obliterated whatever was laudable in the institutions of their forefathers, then- recent masters had taught them only evil. It would, no doubt, be possible to cite a more cruel oppression than that of the Turks towards their Christian sub¬ jects, but none so fitted to break men’s spirit, or less mitigated by those sym¬ pathies which in ordinary cases bind the people to their rulers. To the Moslems themselves, the Sultan’s tyranny is a common form of Oriental despotism, but his sway is far more intolerable to the Rayahs, exposed to the caprices not of one or of a few persons, but of a whole dominant nation, the slaves, in fact, of slaves. “In Constantinople and other great cities, immediately under the eye of government (although looked down upon with haughty contempt), they were indeed protected, and occasionally favoured; and in some secluded or insular situations, seem to have almost escaped the observation of then- masters ; and this was the happiest lot that could befall them. Rut in general throughout the empire they were, in the habitual intercourse of life, subjected to vexations, affronts, and exactions from Mahommedans of every rank : spoiled of their goods, insulted in their religion and domestic honour, they could rarely obtain justice; the.slightest flush of courageous resentment brought down swift destruction on their heads, and cringing humility alone enabled them to live in ease, or even safety. The insolent superiority assumed by the Turks was the more galling, that it arose entirely out of a principle of fanatical intolerance, which renders Mussulman superiority singularly bitter and odious to people of a different faith. We ought not to be surprised at detecting in a majority of Greeks, meanness, cunning, cowardice, and dissimulation, but rather to wonder that they had firm¬ ness enough to adhere to their religion, and eat the bread of affliction, since an act of apostasy opened the road to employment and wealth, and, from the meanest serfs, aggregated them to the caste of oppressors. Am ongst themselves certain shades of distinction are drawn; the Rumeliots (or inhabitants of Northern Greece) being reckoned brave and hardy, the Moreots (or Pelopon¬ nesians) timid and deceitful, the Islanders of the Archipelago (or Aegean) and * See the Introduction to his “ History of the Greek Revolution.” This Introduction forms an admirable Essay, which should be carefully studied by all persons who desire to make themselves well acquainted with Greece and the Greeks. 108 Sect. II. 2. CLIMATE, SOIL, ETC. natives of tlie shore of Asia, acute and dexterous, hut inclined to indolence and frivolity. A considerable difference also exists between the Greeks and Christian Albanians: the latter are less ingenious, less disposed to learn, graver, more taci¬ turn, more industrious, and of a sterner temper.” It has been remarked that the Albanians may be said to bear the same relation to the Greeks that the Doric bore to the Ionic population in ancient times. But see Special Introduction to Section IY., and sujpra , General Introduction, pp. 42-52. 2. Climate, Soil, &c. It has been already said that Greece possesses in a high degree those geo¬ graphical features which distinguish Europe at large. No part of the continent is so remarkable for the irregularity of its shape, its shores, and its surface. It is so mountainous that scarcely any room is left for plains. Such as exist are principally along the sea-shore, or near the mouths of rivers, or else are mere basins, enclosed on all sides by lofty hills, or co mm unicating -with each other only by deep and narrow gorges. The most flourishing cities of antiquity, and the principal towns of modem Greece, have been erected in the midst or on the borders of such plains. The climate , in a country the surface of which is so uneven, must, of course, vary considerably, but the medium temperature of the year in the plains of Greece is about 62° Fahr. At Athens the thermometer in the summer fre¬ quently rises to near 100° Fahr. Snow falls in the highlands by the middle of October ; and even in the plains it is occasionally 6 inches deep, but it never lies long in the latter. The mountains are capped with snow from November to June, and in the hollows unexposed to the sun it may sometimes be found throughout the year. The winters at Athens may be said to be confined to January and February. Both spring and autumn, particularly the latter, are rainy seasons ; Athens enjoys a drier atmosphere than any other province—a circumstance to which the better preservation of its splendid monuments of ancient art is mainly owing. The harvest in Greece usually takes place in June. Yiolent storms of thunder and lightning, and slight earthquakes, are not un¬ common. The country may, in general, be called healthy, except in the low and mar shy tracts round the shores and lakes, where intermittent fevers are very prevalent. The vegetable products of Greece are, for the most part, similar to those of southern Italy. It is much to be regretted that the fine forests which once clothed the Greek hills should have been so extensively laid waste, destroyed by the inhabitants for firewood, or by the wanton ravages of the Turkish troops, who carried fire and sword into the remote fastnesses of the mountains. _ There are still, however, noble woods of oak, pine, &c., in Euboea, in .ZEtolia, and A ramania. , in Parnassus, and in the western provinces of the Peloponnesus. The destruction of the forests is probably the cause of the drought of summer, and consequently of the want of navigable rivers. Must of the streams of the kingdom of Greece are little better than mountain-torrents, while the lakes are chiefly mere swamps, and become nearly dry in hot weather. The Achelous, between iEtolia and Acamania, still deserves its Homeric title of King of the Greek rivers. The deficiency of inland navigation in Greece is, however, partly supplied by the numerous gulfs and inlets of the sea, which indent the coasts on every side, and afford unusual facilities to commerce, while they add to the beauty and variety of the scenery. Geology , Jv;.--Greece, generally speaking, is a region of compact grey lime¬ stone- the material of which the chain of (Eta, as well as Mounts Parnassus and Helicon, is almost entirely composed. Primitive rocks and tertiary formations 109 Kingdom of Greece. 3 . packets, etc. are, however, found in the range of Pindus, and in many other localities ; and volcanic action is clearly traceable, particularly in some of the islands. The whole of Greece abounds with caverns and fissures, whence sulphureous and other mephitic vapours arise, which were taken advantage of hi antiquity at Delphi and elsewhere, for practising religious deceptions. There are numerous hot and cold mineral springs, but few of them have yet been analysed. Marbles of various colours and several minerals are among the natural products, but the quantities of any of them at present obtained are quite insignificant. According to Thiersch (i. 274), the gold, silver, copper, and lead mines of Attica, and of the islands of Siphnos and Seriphos, are far from being exhausted. There is iron in Scyros, Laconia, and in Euboea, where, as also in Elis, there are abimdant seams of coal. Soil, Agriculture, distribution of Land, Sfc. —The total surface of the kingdom of Greece is said to be about 12 millions of acres, nearly five-sixths of which belong to the church, or to the state, which in most places succeeded to the pro¬ perty of the expelled Turks. Not more than one-tenth part of the whole is, as yet, cultivated. The holders of government land usually rent it as high as 20 or 25 per cent, on its value; the common mode of farming is on the metayer system. Com is extensively grown on the plains, and rice, cotton, &c., in some localities. The demand for the currant-grape ha England has brought it into extensive culture all along the northern shore of the Peloponnesus, from Corinth to Patras. The hills of Greece are admirably adapted for vineyards ; the best wines are those made in the islands. The olive oil of Greece would be excellent, if well prepared ; other products are valonea, flax, tobacco, silk, wax, honey, &c. Owing to the long continued insecurity that has existed in these regions, and to the oppressions practised on the peasantry, agricailture and agricultural implements are in a very backward condition. But the greater part of the surface of Greece being rugged and orneven, it is more a pastoral than an agricultural country; and the raising of sheep, goats, and oxen, is an important branch of industry. The condition of the peasantry has been materially ameliorated since Greece became independent. "Under the Turks they were obliged to conceal most of their little property, to prevent their being plundered of it. Their habitations, though still rude, have a greater appearance of comfort and solidity than formerly. The food of the labouring classes consists almost wholly of vegetables, though they occasionally indulge in goats’ flesh, which is their only animal food. Abject poverty, however, is rare, and a progressive improvement in the condition of the peasantry appears to be taking place, especially in the islands, where the com¬ forts and luxuries of life are better understood than in all parts of the continent, except in some of the large towns. Modem travellers of authority agree in opinion that the Greek labourer is generally industrious, attached to his family, anxious for the education of his children, and equal, if not superior, in intelligence to the peasantry of many of the more civilised states of Europe. Manufactures in Greece are almost wholly domestic; every peasant’s family producing, with few exceptions, the articles required for their own consumption. (The best com¬ pendium of minute mformation on all the subjects treated of in this introduction is the excellent article on Greece in M l Culloch's Geographical Dictionary .) 3. Packets, &c. For an account of the Austrian steamers from Trieste, &c., and of the English and French steamers to and from Malta, see Genebae Introduction, b. The quickest communication between England and Athens is by Trieste : letters can arrive by this route in about eight days from London. The post-office at Athens is not far from the chief streets, and is tolerably well managed. A post-office system has been organised throughout the new kingdom, but the mail to most 110 4. MONEY. Sect. II. parts of tlie interior is slow and uncertain, being conveyed by horse or foot messengers. It will be useful for the traveller to know beforehand that in Greece, as in Russia, and the other countries which profess the Greek creed, time is still reckoned by the Old Style , which, by the way, was not abolished in England till 1752. This will explain the difference of 12 days in the Greek post-marks on letters, &c.; the 1st of the month, Old Style , being the 13th of the month, New Style. The Austrian, French, and English steamers keep up frequent communication between Athens, Syra, Smyrna, Constantinople, and various islands of the iEgean. It is understood that these means of communication will be shortly increased to a considerable extent. A steamer runs once a month from Athens to Chalcis in Euboea. There are also steamers three or four times a month from Athens to Nauplia and back, touching both in going and returning at Hydra and Spetzia, and also occasionally at Gythium ( Marathonisi ), at Kalamata, and other ports of the Peloponnesus. As the hours of sailing and other regulations are frequently changed, the traveller can gain exact information on these points only at the packet-offices, at the Piraeus, or at the different hotels in Athens. From the extent to which steam communication has now been carried along the shores and among the islands of Greece, the traveller can now visit many of the most interesting parts of the country at all seasons of the year, and without the fatigue, expense, and occasional risk of land-journeys in the interior. Sailing- boats can always be hired in all Greek ports for the purpose of reaching those islands or districts which are not visited by the steamers. (See General In¬ troduction, h .) 4. Money. After the settlement of the monarchy, one of the first measures which engaged the attention of the new government of Greece was the establishment of a national currency; and a decree was promulgated in September, 1833, prohibiting the future circulation of Turkish money. A new coinage of gold, silver, and copper was issued, and all accounts were thenceforward to be kept in drachmae and lepta. Previous to that period the coin of all countries was in circulation, valued at so many piastres. Now, though foreign money, with the exception of Turkish, is still taken everywhere, it is better to exchange the larger coins in the towns, and to be provided with a quantity of small silver pieces for travelling in the ulterior, to avoid the difficulty of procuring change. The coins of Greece are as follows :— Copper Coins — Lepton, the 100th part of a drachma. 5 Lepta ..=■ nearly \d. 10 Lepta.= nearly Id. Silver Coins — 1 Drachma.= 8 -Jd. ^ Drachma.= 4£d. ^ Drachma.= 2>\d. New Greek dollar, 5 drachmae . . . = 3s. 63 d. Gold Coins — 5 Dollar pieces, 25 drachmae . . . . = 17s. 8 ^d. From the small quantity of the national coinage originally issued, and from its subsequent exportation, the Greek coins (except copper money) are rarely met with at the present day. Two of the coins in most use in Greece are the French 5 franc piece, worth 5 drachmae, 58 lepta, and the Austrian zwanziger, worth 95 lepta. The Austrian or German dollar of 2 florins passes in Greece for 5 drachmae, 78 lepta. The Austrian zecchino for a few lepta more than 13 drachmae. The English sovereign for 28 drachmae, 12 lepta, and all bargains made in pounds sterling are calculated at this rate, though the exchange for bills is rarely so high. Kingdom of Greece. 5. shops ; servants.— 6. inns.— 7. tours. Ill Tlie word raXXtipx ( talari , or dollars) is used in Greece for all the coins of the value of from 5 to 6 drachmae. Travellers, therefore, in order to avoid misunder¬ standing and disputes, should always make then bargains in drachmae. A dollar in a bargain is commonly understood to mean a colonnato, or Spanish dollar of 6 drachmae, equivalent to 4.?. 4 d. The dollar of the S. American republics passes also for 6 drachmae. The only gold coin of Greece is the 5 dollar piece of 25 drachmae, but it is rarely seen in circulation. The Spanish dollar is still the favourite coin of the Greeks. A traveller will find it the most advantageous money to have with him, on arriving in the country. Bills upon London and circular notes are cashed by the correspondents of the various London bankers, at Athens and Patras. The rate of exchange is, of course, liable to variation. The National Bank of Greece issues bank-notes of different values, which are more portable than coin. The chief weights and measures in Greece are :— The Oke.= 43'3 oz. avoirdupois. Kilo.= 22 okes. Cantar or quintal. . . = 44 okes. Strema (of land) . . . = nearly l-3rd of an acre. Distances are measured, as has been already observed, by the hour : the hour being usually equivalent to about 3 English miles. 5. Shops, Servants, &c. Previously to the year 1835, or thereabouts, foreigners resident in Greece were dependent on supplies from Malta or Trieste for almost all articles of European luxury and even necessity. But there are now excellent shops at Athens, some of which are more particularly mentioned in Route 2. Here the English resident or traveller may provide himself with all that he can require. There are some inferior shops at Patras and Nauplia. The traveller has been already urged to proceed in the first instance to Athens, to make that city his head-quarters, and then to engage a travelling servant before prosecuting his journey in the interior. Full advice and information on this and the collateral points has been given above. (See General Introduc¬ tion, pp. 5-20.) The names of several of the best travelling servants will be found in Route 2. 6. Inns, and Accommodation for Travellers. There is little to add on this subject to the information to be found in the General Introduction, i. Athens is the only town in Greece where really good hbtels have as yet been established. Some of the best will be mentioned more specifically in Route 2. 7. Skeleton Tours. It cannot be too often repeated that by far the most convenient way to explore Greece is to take one tour in Roumelia, as Greece N. of the Isthmus was called by the Turks, and another in the Morea, or Peloponnesus, returning each time to Athens, which is the only good head-quarters. Corinth may be easily seen in gomg by the Austrian steamers from Athens to Patras and Corfu, or vice versa , as several hours are allowed for crossing the isthmus. The tour in the Pelopon¬ nesus can be commenced from Corinth, or by taking the steamer which leaves the Piraeus 2 or 3 times a month for Nauplia, which it reaches in about 12 hours, touching en route at Hydra and Spetzia. Tiryns, Mycenae, and Argos form the points of a triangular excursion of one day in the neighbourhood of Nauplia. In one day also, the Hieron of JEscula/pius may be conveniently visited from the same place. 112 The following Skeleton Tours may regular tours hereafter described. 1. GRAND TOTJB OB NORTHERN GREECE, OCCUPYING ABOUT A MONTH ; OB IF ■23TOLIA AND ACABNANIA ABE ALSO VISITED, SIS WEEKS. Athens. Eleusis. Thebes. Chalcis in Euboea. Then, if the south part of Euboea is explored, Carystos, and back to Chalcis. Ahmet-Aga. Oreos. Then crossing in a boat to Stelida, the port of Lamia (Zeitun). Thermopylae Amphissa (Salona). Delphi. (Ascent of Parnassus). Arachova. Lebadea. Chseronsea. Orchomenus. Copaic Lake. Coronea. Leuctra. Platsea. Eleusis. Athens. Or, if AStolia and Acarnania are also explored, proceed thus :— Amphissa (Salona). Naupactus (Lepanto). Mesolonghi. Vrakhori. Burns of Thermus and Stratus. Kravasaras. Vonitza. Tragomesti. Bums of OEniadse. Back to Mesolonghi. 2. GRAND TOUB OF THE PELOPON¬ NESUS, OCCUPYING FROM A MONTH. TO SIX WEEKS. Athens. By sea to Nauplia. Hieron and back to Nauplia. Tiryns. Sect. II. possibly be useful as variations of the Mycense. Nemea. Argos. Tripolitza. Mantinea, and back to Tripolitza. Sparta. Gy t Ilium. Monemvasia, and back to Grythium. Tzimova. Asomatos (Cape Tsenarus, or Mata- pan), and back to Tzimova. Entries. Kalamata. Nisi. Coron. Modon. Pylos (Navarino). Cyparissise (Arcadia). Messene. Megalopolis (Sinano). Karitena. Phigaha. Temple of Bassse. Andritzena. Yale of Olympia. Pyrgos. G-astuni. Patras. ASgiuin (Vostitza). Convent of Megaspeleeon. Kalabryta. Valley of the Styx (Solos). Phonia. Sicyon (Basilika). Corinth. Megara. Eleusis. Athens. 8. ATHENS TO PATBAS, OCCUPYING EIGHT OB TEN DAYS. DAYS. Athens. 1 By Eleusis to Eleutherse (Casa), where sleep. 2 Platsea, Leuctra, Thebes. 3 Thespise to Lebadea, [or else] 1 Athens, by Phyle to Thebes. 2 Platsea, Leuctra, Lebadea; a long day. 7. SKELETON TOURS. /. SKELETON TOURS. 113 Kingdom of Greece. DATS. 3 (and 4) See Cave of Trophonius at Lebadea, and then ride to Orclio- menus (Skripu). If you do not go to Orckomenus, you may reach Arachova, taking Chse- roncea by the way. 5 To Delphi. See the Castalian Spring, &c. 6 The Corycian Care and the ascent of Parnassus require a long day from Delphi, going and returning, but you can take them on the way fromAraeliova to Delphi, ascend¬ ing from the former, and descend¬ ing to the latter. 7 There is the alternative of either (a) taking boat to Patras from the Scala of Salona, 12 hours with a fair wind. (6) Crossing to Yostitza, and thence riding to j Patras in 7 or 8 hours. ( c ) A j very rough and disagreeable ride I of 2 days to Lepanto, where you can always find boats to I cross to Patras. This route may be varied by omitting Thebes, Lebadea, Orckomenus, &c., and going from Athens by Marathon, Rham- nus, and Chalcis to Thermopyke; and thence by the Khan of Gravia to Delphi. If pressed for time, the following may be the route, omitting Delphi. DAYS. 1 Athens to Megara by Eleusis (Car¬ riage-road). 2 To Corinth, by either the lower or J the upper road (horseback). 3 See Corinth; but do not ascend the Acropolis unless it is clear weather. 4 and 5 By Sicyon and Yostitza to Patras. 4. ATHENS TO ARGOS, RETURNING BY CORINTH ; A WEEK’S EXCURSION. ] DAYS. 1 Prom the Piraeus to Epidaurus by boat, taking iEgina by the way. [ 2 From Epidaurus to Nauplia by the Hieron. 3 Drive in a carriage to Tiryns, Ar¬ gos, and Mycenae, sending horses DAYS. to the latter place. There mount, and ride by Nemea to Corinth. This is a long day; people usually devote one day to the carriage excursion, returning to NaupHa in the evening. 4 Corinth, as above. 5 Megara. 6 Athens. 5. THREE DAYS’ EXCURSION PROM ATHENS TO VISIT MARATHON, RHAM- NUS, OROPUS, AND DECELEA. DAYS. 1 From Athens to Marathon (Yrana). 2 Rhamnus first, and then to Marco- pulo, leaving Kalamo on the right and Grammaticd on the left. It is probable that this excursion may become a common one, as there is tolerable accommodation to be had at Marcopulo, in consequence of the good wood-cock shooting to be found in the neighbourhood. It is not, however, a route which has hitherto been described by English travellers. LeaJce's route is from Rhamnus to Grammatico, and thence by Yamava to Kalamo, and so to Oropus. Wordsworth's is the same in a contrary direction. GelVs course from Oropus is by Marcopulo and Ka- pandriti to Marathon. Gelt likewise mentions the route from Rhamnus to Oropus by Grammatico and Kalamo, and also from Oropus to Athens by Kalamo and Kapandriti. The route here proposed passes by the old fort of Vamava, placed in a striking position. 3 First to the shore of the Euripus at the Scala, and thence to Oropus : thence across the Diacria to the ridges of Pames; so straight to Decelea, and thence to Athens. This is the shortest way, and yet this route is not mentioned by either Gell or Leake. The view of Athens from Decelea is, perhaps, the most striking of all the views which can be obtained of it. 114 ROUTE 1.-CORFU TO ATHENS. Sect. II. 6. ATHENS BY BOROS, TROEZEN, AND HERMIONE, TO HYDRA : THREE DAYS’ EXCURSION. DAY. 1 Athens to Poros by boat. 2 and 3 Poros to Troezen (Damala), and thence ride across the Ar- gobc peninsula to Hermione (Castri) ; whence a boat will take you in 2 hours to Hydra. There are some ancient remains both at Troezen and Hermione, and the orange and lemon-groves around the former are very charming. A little north of Poros is the volcanic peninsula of Metliana , highly interesting to the geologist. 7. TOUR IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF PAU- S AN IAS ; FROM TWO TO THREE MONTHS. Col. Leake has observed that tills would he not an ill-advised route; and it would give the classical traveller the opportunity of comparing exactly the present with the ancient topography of Greece; using Pausanias as his hand¬ book. 8. TOUR IN THE .EGEAN : SIX WEEKS OR TWO MONTHS. The above period would suffice to visit the chief islands, but not to explore the interior of Crete. Syra should be made the head-quarters of a yacht- voyage in the lEgean. (Section III.) PART I. NORTHERN GREECE. ROUTE. PAGE. 1. From Corfu to Athens by Patras, and the Gulf and Isthmus of Corinth . . . 114 2. Athens and the Piraeus; with their environs . . . 129 3. Athens to Suniuin .... 207 4. Athens to Lamia (Zeitun) by Marathon, Thebes, Delphi, &c.209 5. Thermopylae to Lebadea . . 219 6 . Marathon to Chalcis . . . 220 7. Athens to Chalcis direct . . 223 8 . Thebes to Chalcis (Euboea) . 224 ROUTE. PAGE. 9. Chalcis to Oreos (Euboea) . 227 10. Chalcis to Thebes by Lukisi and Kokhino.229 11. Patras to Athens by Meso- longhi, Delphi, Vostitza, and Corinth.232 12. Mesolonghi to Vonitza and Prevesa.245 13. Mesolonghi to Calydon (Kurt Aga).248 14. Mesolonghi to Vonitza by CEniadse, Porta, and Katuna 249 15. Aetos to Alyzea.252 ROUTE 1. PROM CORFU TO ATHENS BY PATRAS, AND THE GULP AND ISTHMUS OP CORINTH. The Austrian steamers leave Corfu for Athens by this route once a fort¬ night, touching at Cephalonia, Zante, Patras, Lepanto, Vostitza, and so to Lutraki, on the isthmus. Carriages are provided by the company for the crossing of the isthmus (6 miles), and another steamer awaits the arrival of the passengers at Calamaki , on the Gulf of Salamis, and conveys them to the Pirceus in about 4 hours. The first-class fare from Corfu to Athens, including meals, &c., is about 5 1. The tune occupied, including stop¬ pages, rarely exceeds 48 hours. It is a most interesting and delightful voyage. The northern entrance to the channel of Corfu has already been described (pp. 63, 64). We now pass out by the southern entrance, which has not the stern features of that from the north. The mountains are lower, and there is Northern Greece. ROUTE 1.—CORFU TO ATHENS. 115 more cultivation botli in the island and on the opposite continent. The strag¬ gling village, whose white houses hang like a snow-wreath on the side of the Albanian hills, nearly due E. of the citadel, is called Konispolis, and is in¬ habited chiefly by Mahommedans. Farther S. is the bay of Gomenitza , once a station of the Venetians, while they held Corfu. Still farther to the S., and close to the Albanian shore, are the two islets Sybota (see p. 69). The long sandy point which runs out from the opposite coast of Corfu is called the promontory of Lefkimo , a corruption of Leucimne , as Capo Bianco , the most southern cape of the island, is a transla¬ tion of the same word. At its southern entrance, the channel of Corfu is about 5 miles across. Emerging into the open Ionian sea, we pass on the right the island of Paso (see p. 70), and approach Leucadia, or Santa Maura, whose mountains, with those of Cephalonia beyond, rise proudly on the southern horizon. 'Nothing can be more striking than the view pre¬ sented by the Albanian coast, and its long range of mountains stretching on our left. Parga (see Section IV.) is the small town perched on a low hill close to the sea. A little farther to the S. is the entrance of Port Phanari (the Sweet Harbour, Tkvxi; Ai/j.r,v, of the an¬ cients). Far above it, and on a peaked rock in the gloomy gorge of the river Acheron, which flows into Port Phanari, may be descried in clear weather the white walls of the far-famed castle of Suli (see Section IV.). Farther still to the S., and at the mouth of the Am - bracian G-ulf, are the ruins of Nicopolis, the City of Victory , built by Augustus to commemorate the triumph of his cause off the neighbouring point of Actium. The verses which describe Childe Harold’s voyage over these same waters will be gladly read by every English traveller on the Ionian Sea:— Land of Albania ! where Iskander rose, ! Theme of the young, and beacon of the wise. And he his namesake, whose oft-baffled foes Shrunk from his deeds of chivalrous emprize: Lund of Albania! let me bend mine eyes On thee, thou rugged nurse of savage men! The cross descends, thy minarets arise, And the pale crescent sparkles in the glen, Through many a cypress grove within each city's ken. Childe Harold sail'd, and pass'd the barren spot * Where sad Penelope o'erlook'd the wave, And onward view'd the mount, not yet forgot. The lover's refuge, and the Lesbian s grave.f Dark Sappho! could not verse immortal save That breast imbued with such immortal fire? Could she not live who life eternal gave ? If life eternal may await the lyre, That only Heaven to which Earth's children may aspire. 'Twas on a Grecian autumn s gentle eve Childe Harold hail'd Leucadia's cape afar; A spot he long'd to see, nor car d to leave : Oft did he mark the scenes of vanish'd war, Actium, Lepanto, fatal Trafalgar; JIark them unmov'd, for he would not delight (Bom beneath some remote inglorious star) In themes of bloody fray, or gallant fight. But loath'd the bravo's trade, and laugh'd at martial wight. But when he saw the evening star above Leucadia's far-projecting rock of woe, And hail'd the last resort of fruitless love, He felt, or deemd he felt, no common glow: And as the stately vessel glided slow Beneath the shadow of that ancient mount, He watch'd the billows’ melancholy flow. And, sunk albeit in thought as he was wont, More placid seem'd his eye, and smooth his pallid front. Mom dawns; and with it stem Albania's hills. Dark Suli's rocks, and Pindus' inland peak. Robed half in mist, bedew'd with snowy rills, Array'd in many a dun and purple streak, Arise; and, as the clouds along them break, Disclose the dwelling of the mountaineer: Here roams the wolf, the eagle whets his beak, Birds, beasts of prey, and wilder men appear, And gathering storms around convulse the closing year. * * * * * Ambracia’s gulf behold, where once was lost A world for woman, lovely, harmless thing! In yonder rippling bay their naval host Did many a Roman chief and Asian king $ * Ithaca. -f- The Leucadian Promontory, or Lovers’ Leap. % It is said that, on the day previous to the battle of Actium, Antony had thirteen kings at his levee. [“ To-day (Nov. 12 ) I saw the re¬ mains of the town of Actium, near which Antony lost the world, in a small bay, where two frigates could hardly manoeuvre: a broken wall is the sole remnant. On another part of the gulf stand the rains of Nicopolis, built by Augustus, in ho¬ nour of his victory .”—Lord Byron to his Mother, 1809 .] 116 Sect. IT. ROUTE 1.—CORFU TO ATHENS. To doubtful conflict, certain slaughter bring: Look where the second Caasar's trophies rose ; Now, like the hands that reared them, wi¬ thering : Imperial anarchs, doubling human woes I Cod ! was thy globe ordained for such to win and lose ? After leaving Santa Maura on the left, the steamer sometimes, according to the wind, &c., passes outside, or to the westward, of Cephalonia; some¬ times it passes through the channel be¬ tween Ithaca and Cephalonia, thus affording a good prospect of both those islands. Ithaca is, of course, to the left, and Cephalonia to the right (see the descriptions in Section I.). The steamers generally touch at Argostoli , the capital of Cephalonia (see p. 74), and then at the city of Zante (see p. 94). From Zante the steamer proceeds to Patras, at the entrance of the Gulf of Corinth. To the left are the mountains of Acamania and iEtolia, with the lagoons and town of Mesolonghi at their foot; to the right the mountains of the Peloponnesus, with the rich plains of Elis and Achaia skirting the sea. In approaching the shores of Greece, that land to which we are indebted for so much that is graceful in art, exalting in freedom, and ennobling in philosophy, the traveller will be forcibly struck with Lord Byron’s apostrophe, written, be it remembered, while Greece was still sub¬ ject to the Turks :— And yet how lovely in thy age of woe, Land- of lost gods and god-like men, art thou I Thy vales of evergreen, thy hills of snow, Proclaim thee Nature's varied favourite now; Thy fanes, thy temples, to thy surface bow. Commingling slowly with heroic earth, Broke by the share of every rustic plough : So perish monuments of mortal birth. So perish all in turn, save well-recorded worth; Save where some solitary column mourns Above its prostrate brethren of the cave, Save where Tritonia’s airy shrine adorns Colonna's.cliif,* and gleams along the wave; Save o'er some warrior's half-forgotten grave, Where the gray stones and unmolested grass Ages, but not oblivion, feebly brave, While strangers only not regardless pass, Lingering, like me, perchance, to gaze and sigh “Alas!” * ’I'iie allusion is to the temple of Athena on Sunium, called “Cape Colonna” by the Italians. Yet are thy skies as blue, thy crags as wild ; Sweet are thy groves, and verdant are thy fields, Thine olive ripe as when Minerva smiled, And still his honied wealth Hymettusyields; There the blithe bee his fragrant fortress builds, The free-born wanderer of thy mountain air; Apollo still thy long, long summer gilds, Still in his beam Mendeli’s * marbles glare; Art, glory, freedom fail, but Nature still is fair. Where'er we tread, ’tis haunted holy ground; No earth of thine is lost in vulgar mould. But one vast realm of wonder spreads around, And all the Muse's tales seem truly told, Till the sense aches with gazing to behold The scenes our earliest dreams have dwelt upon; Each hill and dale, each deepening glen and wold Defies the power which crushed thy temples gone: Age shakes Athena’s tower, but spares gray Marathon. The sun, the soil, but not the slave, the same; Unchang’d in all except its foreign lord— Preserves alike its bounds and boundless fame The battle-field, where Persia's victim horde First bowed beneath the brunt of Hellas’ sword, As on the morn to distant glory dear, When Marathon became a magic word; Which uttered, to the hearer’s eye appear The camp, the host, the fight, the conqueror’s career; The flying Mede, his shaftless broken bow; The fiery Greek, his red pursuing spear; Mountains above, Earth's, Ocean's plain be¬ low ; Death in the front, Destruction in the rear! Such was the scene—what now remaineth here. What sacred trophy marks the hallowed ground. Recording Freedom's smile and Asia’s tear? The rifled urn, the violated mound, The dust thy courser’s hoof, rude stranger! spurns around. Yet to the remnants of thy splendour past Shall pilgrims, pensive, but unwearied, throng; Long shall the voyager, with th' Ionian blast, Hail the bright clime of battle and of song ; Long shall thine annals and immortal tongue Fill with thy fame the youth of many a shore; Boast of the aged I lesson of the young! Which sages venerate and bards adore. As Pallas and the Muse unveil their awful lore. The parted bosom clings to wonted home, If aught that’s kindred cheer the welcome hearth; He that is lonely, hither let him roam, And gaze complacent on congenial earth. Greece is no lightsome land of social mirth; But he whom Sadness sootheth may abide, And scarce regret the region of his birth, When wandering slow by Delphi's sacred side. Or gazing o’er the plains where Greek and Per¬ sian died. * The Italian name of Pentelicus. Northern Greece. ROUTE 1.-PATRAS. Let such approach this consecrated land. And pass in peace along the magic waste; But spare its relics—let no busy hand Deface the scenes, already how defaced! Xot for such purpose were these altars placed: Revere the remnants nations once revered: So may our country’s name be undisgraced. So mayst thou prosper where thy youth was reared By every honest joy of love and life endeared I Patras, the Patrae of the Greeks; in Italian Patrasso. Inns. —H6tel de la Grande Bre¬ tagne ; Hotel des Quatre Nations; hoth tolerable. The Great Britain is one of the best small inns in Greece, hut is much too dear. A bargain should be made for beds and meals in all Greek inn s. There are several cafes. Patras possesses great advantages in point of situation, from the facility of communication by sea with the adjacent islands, with the whole western coast of Greece, and the iEgean Sea by the Gulf! of Corinth. Its modem prosperity has been the result of the cultivation of the dwarf-vine, called Uva passa di Co- rinto , or currants, which render the greater part of the plain of Patras some of the most valuable soil in Europe. The ancient Patrae was founded by the Ionians, the original inhabitants of the northern shore of the Peloponnesus, afterwards called Achaia. Herodotus (i. 146) enumerates Patrae among the twelve cities of Achaia. It suffered greatly during the wars of the Achaean league. After the battle of Actium, however, it was raised to its former flourishing condition by Augustus, who made it a Koman colony, like Nico- polis, and established some of his vete¬ rans in it. In Strabo’s time it was a large and populous town; and in the second century, a.d., it w as still pros¬ perous ( Pausanias, Achaic., 18-21). When Pausanias visited Patrae, it was noted for its cultivation of cotton, which was abundantly grown in the neigh¬ bourhood ; and there was a large manu¬ facturing population in the town. So great was the number of women at¬ tracted to the place by this employ¬ ment, that the female population is stated by Pausanias to have been double 117 that of the male. The objects described by him were in four different quarters. 1. Tlie Acropolis. 2. The Agora. 3. A quarter into which there was a gate from the Agora. 4. The quarter near the sea. The chief object of veneration in the j Acropolis was the temple of Diana j Laphria, containing a statue of that goddess brought from Calydon in JEto- lia by Augustus. The city contained | many other temples and public build- ! bigs of importance, especially a famous Odeum, Modem Patras, before the I revolution, occupied the same site as the ancient city. It stood upon a ridge about a mile long, which projects from the falls of Mount Yoidhia in an easterly direction; to the westward it is sepa¬ rated from the sea by a level increasing in breadth from 1ST. to S. from a quarter to more than half a mile. At the northern end of this ridge stands the castle of Patras, on the site of the an¬ cient Acropolis, of which some pieces are intermixed with the modem masonry on the N.E. side. The castle is strengthened in this direction by a hollow lying between it and the oppo¬ site heights, which form the connection with Mount T oidkia. These hill s are of the most irregular forms, and have been much subject to earthquakes. The ancient town, like the modem one before the revolution, covered the slopes of the ridge, which branches from the citadel to the S. The old Achaian city does not appear to have extended beyond the foot of this ridge. All the existing remains beyond that line seem to have belonged to the colony esta¬ blished by Augustus after the battle of Actium. Masses of masonry are to be found among the houses and gardens, but none in sufficiently good preserva¬ tion to be identified with any building among those described by Pausanias. The Agora seems to have been about the middle of the town. The only position of the ancient Patras, besides the Acropolis, which seems to be perfectly identified, is that of the temple of Ceres, described by 118 ROUTE 1.—CORFU TO ATHENS. Sect. II. Pausanias as adjoining a grove by the sea-side, serving as a public walk to tlie Patrenses, and as having bad below it in front a source of water, to which there was a descent on the side opposite the temple. This spring is easily re¬ cognised near the western extremity of the present town, near the sea-shore. There is still a descent of four steps to the well, under a vault near the Greek cathedral church of St. Andrew. This church is held in great veneration by the Greeks, as it is supposed to contain the bones of the apostle, and also a stone which tradition connects with his martyrdom. On the anniversary of his festival, all the Greeks of Patras and the neighbourhood flock to this shrine to pray, and tapers are every night lighted in a shed near which the body is thought to be buried. This church has been rebuilt since the revolution. According to Ducange, the metropo¬ litan church of Patrse stood formerly in the citadel, and was destroyed by Ville- hardouin, a Latin noble, who obtained possession of Achaia after the Frank conquest of Constantinople in 1204. About 250 years afterwards, the patron-saint suffered another indignity. Thomas, the Greek despot, or lord, finding himself under the necessity of retiring to Italy before the arms of Mahomet II., could devise no more effectual mode of recommending himself to the Pope, than to carry off the head of St. Andrew from Patrse as a present to his Holiness. The ruins of the Roman aqueduct, of brick, which supplied the town from the heights to the eastward, are still extant on that side of the Castle Hill. Mount Voidhia, 6322 English feet in height, and inferior only to a few of the great summits of Greece, is evidently the Mount Panacliaicmn , where, in the winter of the second year of the Social War, B.C. 219-20, Pyrrhias the Mto- lian established himself at the head of 3000 yEtolians and Eleians, after having made incursions upon Patrrs, T)ymc , &c., and from whence he continued them towards vEyium and Rhium. The Kleplits of modem times have also dis¬ covered that this mountain is most conveniently placed for commanding Achaia. The greater part of the existing castle of Patras is probably the work of Ville- hardouin and his successors, and he evidently made abundant use of tbe remains of ancient buildings in con¬ structing it. Tbe castle commands a most beautiful and interesting pros¬ pect. Nothing can be more perfect of its kind than the sweep of the coast for min g that vast bay to the S.W., w'hich Is separated from Mount Panachaicum by the plain of Patras. Beyond appear the distant summits of Zante and Cephalonia. Castel Tomese is seen in this direction a little to the right of the summit of Mount Skopos in Zante. To the N. the outer division of the Corinthian gulf is bounded by the mountains of Acarnania and TEtolia, and immedi¬ ately hi front of Patras by tlie two rugged hills which rise abruptly from the shore between the Lagunes of Meso- longhi and the straits of Rhium. In the latter direction the prospect is ter¬ minated by the town of Lepanto and the mountains above it. The Corinthian Gulf has the appearance of a vast mountain lake. In modem times Patras has been the theatre, of many sanguinary contests, as between the Latin princes and the Greek emperors. The latter sold it to the Venetians in 1408, from whom it was taken by the Turks, after a brilliant de¬ fence, in 1446. It was wrested from them by Doria in 1532, and continued under the Venetian dominion till 1714, when the whole of the Morea fell under the Ottoman yoke. Although Patras was the first town that suffered during the Greek revolu¬ tion, and was the stronghold of the Turks, its destruction was never so complete as that of many other Greek cities; but its environs, so much ex¬ tolled by earlier travellers, the woods of olives, the vineyards, the orange, lemon, and pomegranate groves, &c., the source of so much enjoyment to its inhabitants, have been laid waste Northern Greece. ROUTE 1.-PATRAS. 119 y fire and sword. Tile population f Patras at the commencement of his century was estimated at 10,000. d present it is computed at only 000 . We have said that Patras was the rst Greek town that suffered in the auseof freedom. Germanos, its patriot rehbishop, was summoned to Tripo- tza on suspicion of favouring Ypsi- mti’s insurrection in Moldavia in 821; but he had not proceeded farther ban Kalabryta, when, finding the ieople disposed to support him, he penly raised the standard of the cross nd of independence on the 2nd of Lpril, 1821. No sooner had this intel- igence reached Patras, than the whole lopulation, already ripe for revolt, ose simultaneously. Unprepared and larmed, the Turks took refuge in the astle, having previously set fire to the )wer town, which was nearly con- umed. The castle they continued to old throughout the war, and it was nally surrendered only after the conclu- ion of hostilities. In March, 1832, the uliot chieftain Tzavellas seized upon his fortress, and continued to hold it, i defiance of the government, until ling Otho’s arrival in Greece, when he uietly resigned it to the royal autlio- ities. It is now occupied by a small ;arrison of Greek soldiers, and is partly Lsed as a prison. The fortifications are ti a ruinous state. Outside the walls here is a remarkably fine plane-tree, v'hose trunk is 25 feet in circumference .t 4 feet from the ground. Since King Otho’s accession Patras las been rebuilt and enlarged. It no onger occupies the site of the ancient md mediaeval town, on the declivity of ffount Panachaicum, but is built on the evel space close to the sea. The new itreet3 are wide and regular, generally Tinning at right angles to each other; md several are built with arcades. Vlany of the houses, especially those of ;he foreign consuls, are spacious, but the najority are only of one or two stories ugh; a precaution necessary in a place io liable to earthquakes, to the fre¬ quency of which may be ascribed the disappearance of almost all remains of classical antiquity. Patras is subject to fevers, the effects of the malaria of the adjacent plains. Good Greek capotes are made here, half of goat’s hair, half of wool, and they are sold cheaper than elsewhere. There are some tolerable shops, where various Eastern curiosities maybe purchased, such as pipes, different kinds of sweetmeats, &c. Like the other towns of Greece, the general aspect of Patras presents some new, comfortable, unpicturesque houses, rising out of a mass of hovels and ruins. There are few mediaeval buildings or quaint streets in Greece, such as lend so peculiar a charm to Italian towns ; all these were swept away (wherever they existed) by the revolution; and the existing edifices date almost invariably from 1830, or later. The splendid Greek costumes, more striking from the contrast of the misery and dilapidation around, will be admired by every traveller in the streets of Patras. The steamers usually remain long enough at Patras to enable their pas¬ sengers to land and visit the chief objects of interest, namely, the Castle, and the Church of St. Andrew and Well of Ceres ; and to take a stroll through the town. Those travellers who choose to begin their tour in the ulterior from this point, had better call on the English Consul for the Morea , whose residence is at Patras, and from whom they will receive the best information respecting the state of the roads, and the health and security of the country. There is excellent woodcock-shooting in winter in the woods to the west of Patras, especially about Ali Tchelihi, 8 hours’ journey in that direction. In the autumn there is good quail-shooting round the town, and red-legged partridges are found on the mountains above. The lagoons of Mesolonghi abound with wild fowl of all kinds. Patras is by far the most important commercial town on the continent of Greece, and carries on a large and in¬ creasing trade. Its roadstead is crowded in August and September with English vessels, loading cargoes of currants. A 120 ROUTE 1.-CORFU TO ATHENS. Sect. II. mole lias been constructed for the pro¬ tection of the harbour, which is still, however, unsafe, and exposed to heavy seas. The principal exports, besides currants (by far the most important article), are oil, valonea, raw silk and cotton, wool, skins, wax, &c. The im¬ ports here, as elsewhere in Greece, con¬ sist principally of colonial produce, manufactured goods, &c. chiefly from the Ionian islands, Great Britain, Venice, Trieste, Leghorn, and Marseilles. Leaving Patras the steamer proceeds in about 8 hours to Lutraki, on the isthmus of Corinth, touching at Nau- pactus ( Lepanto ) andiEgimn ( Yostitza). The Corinthian Gulf resembles, as we have said, a large inland lake. It is surrounded by mountains, and the heights towards the W. shut out the view of the open sea. In beauty of scenery it surpasses even the most beautiful lakes of Switzerland and Northern Italy. “ Its coasts, broken into an infinite variety of outline by the ever-changing mixture of bold promon¬ tory, gentle slope, and cultivated level, are crowned on every side by lofty mountains of the most majestic forms” Panachaicum, Erymanthus, and other Peloponnesian summits, rising like co¬ lossal pyramids ; and, on the left, the lofty highlands of HCtolia, with Par¬ nassus and Helicon beyond. The northern shore of the gulf is through¬ out more rugged and abrupt than the southern, formed by the province of Achaia, which is a narrow slip of coast- land, lying upon the slope of the northern range of Arcadia, through which the only passes are a few deep and narrow gorges. The whole of the western part of Achaia is forest and pasture, but currant vineyards surround Patras and Yostitza, and are rapidly extending along the shore. The plains are in¬ tersected by numerous mountain tor¬ rents, most of which become dry in summer. The level along the coast of Achaia appears to have been formed in the course of ages by the soil deposited by these mountain-torrents, descending from the lofty highlands that rise im¬ mediately at the hack of the plains. The Corinthian Gulf consists of two distinct portions, an outer and an inner sea, separated from one another by the narrow strait, little more than a mile across, between the promontories Bhimn and Antirrhium. The inner sea, W. of those promontories, was called origin¬ ally the Crisscean Gulf, but after the time of Thucydides the Corinthian Gulf became the more general designation. The Peloponnesian promontory is called Bhium, that to the N. Antirrhium : on each there is a dilapidated mediaeval fortress, called respectively the Castle of the Morea, and the Castle of Ltoumelia. The strait between them has sometimes been called the Little 'Dardanelles . It has already been observed that the famous Battle of Lepanto was fought outside this strait (see p. 91), off the Echinades, or Curzolari Islands. The combined fleets of the Christian States of the Mediterranean, under Don John of Austria, a natural son of Charles Y., signally defeated the Ottoman fleet in October, 1571. This was the first great reverse experienced by the Ottomans, and served to destroy the long cherished idea of their invincibility. About 4 miles E.N.E. of the Castle of Eoumelia is Naupactus, Italice Lepanto ; called Lpakto by the Greek peasants. The steamers stop off this place for a few minutes to land and take up pas¬ sengers. Its appearance is very sin¬ gular as seen from the sea. The fortress and town occupy the south¬ eastern and southern sides of a hill reaching down to the shore. The place is surrounded by medioeval fortifications resembling those common among the ancients in positions similar to that of Naupactus ; that is to say, it occupies a triangular slope with a citadel at the apex, and several cross walls on the slope, dividing it into subordinate in¬ closures. At Naupactus there are no less than five inclosures between the summit and the sea, with gates of com¬ munication from the one to the other. Probably the modern walls follow ex- Northern Greece. ROUTE 1.—iEGIUM. 121 actly the ancient plan of the fortress, for in many parts they stand upon Hellenic foundations, and retain large pieces of ancient masonry amidst the modem work. The modem town, with its 1500 inhabitants, occupies only the lowest inclosure; in the middle of which, and formed by a curve in the sea-ward wall, is the small harbour which made so great a figiu’e in ancient history, espe¬ cially in that of the Peloponnesian war. It is now choked with rubbish, and is capable of receiving only very small craft. The walls of Lepanto consist of a dilapidated rampart, with towers and battlements. The mosques and houses of the former Turkish inhabitants are all in ruins. A few Greek soldiers are sta¬ tioned here. It is scarcely worth while to land. Naupactus is said to have derived its name from the Heraclidse having there built the fleet with which they invaded the Peloponnesus. It was one of the chief towns of the Locri O/ohr. After the Persian wars it fell into the power of the Athenians, who settled here the Messenians who had been compelled to leave their own country at the end of the third Messenian war, B.c. 455 ; and during the Peloponnesian war it was the head-quarters of the Athenians in all their operations in Western Greece. A squadron was also stationed here by them to guard the entrance of the Corinthian Gulf. At the end of the Peloponnesian war the Messenians were obliged to leave Haupactus, which after¬ wards passed through the hands of the Locrians, the JEtolians, the Mace¬ donians, the Achseans, and the Homans. Though chiefly deriving its importance in the meridian age of Hellenic history from its harbour at tbe entrance of the Gulf, the town was indebted probably for its earliest foundation to its strong hill, the fertility of its territory, and its copious supply of running water. The little plains on each side of the present town are covered with olives, com-fields, and vineyards. From Naupaetus the steamer again crosses to the southern shore of the Gulf, and soon reaches Greece. Mgium, or Vostitza, where it gene¬ rally stops long enough to enable the passengers to land, walk through the town, and visit the venerable plane-tree, its chief curiosity. There is a tolerable lchan here, and lodgings can easily be procured in private houses. The name ofYostitza (derived from a word signifying a garden) is as old as the timeof the later Byzantine historians, but the classical appellation of JEgium has been restored by law here, as iu the rest of Greece since the revolution. The town stands chiefly upon a hill, ter¬ minating towards the sea in a cliff about 50 feet high, which is separated from the beach by a narrow level. Here are some copious sources of water, shaded by a magnificent and celebrated plane- tree, older probably than the Ottoman empire, and 46 feet in girth. The trunk is hollow from age, and a chamber is formed in it, which, during the war of Independence, was frequently used as a prison. On what strange and varied scenes must those huge old branches have looked down! They extend 150 feet. Along the shore are the store-houses of the currant-merchants, some of whom here, as well as at Patras, are English¬ men, A broad and well-made road now winds up from the sea to the town above. More to the W. a remarkable opening in the cliff, originally perhaps artificial, has a paved path through it, connecting the town with the place of embarkation, which is just below the fountains. The currants and other ex¬ port produce of this part of Achaia are brought here for shipment, and a large number of English and other foreign vessels annually repair to this port. The harbour is formed by a low alluvial point at the mouth of a river which corresponds to the Meganites of Pau- sanias. Being sheltered from the W. by this point, it is a safer port than that of Patras, but it is not sufficiently capacious, and is rather too deep for merchant vessels, having a depth of 6 or 7 fathoms close to the shore. It is exposed, moreover, towards the N. and N.E.; still its easy access, and the fine G 122 ROUTE 1.-CORFU TO ATHENS.—EUTRAKI. Sect. II. springs so commodiously placed for watering ships, will always secure to this port a great commercial import¬ ance ; the more so, as the only other places on the coast, frequented by ships, between it and Patras, are mere anchor¬ ages. The fine harbours of the northern coast of the Corinthian Gulf form a great contrast to the Peloponnesus, which, on its northern and western sides, possesses not a single really good haven except Pylos ( Navarino ). Again, for ship or boat building, the moun¬ tains behind Vostitza produce pine- wood in abundance ; and other kinds of timber may also be procured in the western parts of Achaia, or from the mountains on the northern and eastern shores of the Gulf. The currant trade affords means of subsistence to the greater part of the population of the town, which amounts to about 4000. Yostitza was lately ill built and straggling, but it is now ra- idly improving, and houses of a better escription, and greater regularity of plan, have been constructed m recent years. Some of the proprietors of the neighbouring currant vineyards are prosperous and hospitable. The situa¬ tion is not generally considered to be healthy. The copious fountains, the defensible hill, the fertile plains, and the rivers on either side, were doubtless the original cause of the Greek settlement on this spot. To the advantage of the harbour, and its central position in the Corinthian Gulf, we may ascribe the magnitude and importance of iEgium in a more ad¬ vanced stage of society. It is men¬ tioned in the Homeric catalogue: and after the destruction of the neighbouring city of Helice by an earthquake in B.c. 373, it obtained the territory^ of the latter, and thus became the chief city of Achaia. From this time iEgium was chosen as the place of meeting for the Achaean League; and even under the Homan empire the Achseans were al¬ lowed to keep up the form of their periodical meetings at iEgium, just as the Ampliictyons were permitted to meet at Thermopylae and Delphi (Paus. vii. 24). The establishment of Roman colonies at Corinth and Patrse reduced, however, iEgium from its ancient su¬ premacy among the cities of the Gulf. Pausanias has left a full and interest¬ ing description of the city and its public buildings at the period of his Greek travels. Yostitza was taken by the Turks in 1458. The principal remains of the ancient iEgium have been lately discovered on a bill tp the E. of the modem town. Several statues and other sculptures of great merit have also been dug up, and some of them may he seen in the houses of Yostitza. A great part of the modem town was destroyed by an earthquake in 1819; and this, combined with the crumbling nature of the soil, is the cause of there being so few relics of antiquity here. Yostitza commands a fine view of the Achaian coast, as well as of all the sum¬ mits on the northern side of the Gulf, from the mountain behind Naupactus to the peaks near Corinth. Parnassus and Helicon are very conspicuous. Nau- pactus is just hid by the Achaian coast. In front of Vostitza, in a part ofLocris, a singidar height rising over the centre of the rocky islets, called Trisonia, is the position of some Hellenic remains. From Yostitza to the convent of Megaspelseon the distance is about 20 miles, and occupies 6 or 7 hours. Toler¬ ably good horses may he procured in Yostitza for this excursion. The tra¬ veller will, of course, sleep in the mo¬ nastery. From Yostitza the steamer proceeds without any further stoppages to Lutraki .—This little port is a short distance to the north of the site of Lechceum, the ancient port-town of Corinth on the Corinthian Gulf, as Cenchrea was on the Saronic Gulf. The position of Lechaeum is now indi¬ cated by a lagoon, surrounded by hil¬ locks of sand; but there are few ves¬ tiges of ancient remains. Lutraki has been chosen by the Austrian Lloyd’s Steam Packet Com¬ pany as the station of their vessels, as it is at the narrowest part of the Isth- Northern Greece. ROUTE 1.—CORUCTH. 123 mils. The Company has erected sta¬ tion-houses both at Lutraki and at Kalamaki, the corresponding port on the Gulf of Salamis ; and made a good road, about 4 miles long, between them. Carriages are provided for the transport of the passengers and them luggage. But ample time is allowed for a visit to Corinth, and travellers should take advantage of this opportunity. Horses and guides are found in abundance at both Lutraki and Kalamaki. It takes nearly 2 hours to ride or walk from Lutraki to Corinth; 2 hours more should be allowed for the ascent of the Acropolis, and the examination of the remains of antiquity in the town; and it will then be a journey of nearly 2 hours from Corinth to Kalamaki, where the corresponding Austrian steamer will be found. Of course the order of this excursion will be reversed if the traveller be proceeding from Athens to Corfu or Trieste. Villages are already springing up around the station-houses at Lutraki and Kalamaki. Lutraki derives its name from the baths (\ourgii) afforded by a copious hot spring, with medicinal qualities, which pours into the sea from under the rocks on the shore of the little bay. These springs are already resorted to by invalids, and are perhaps destined one day to become an Hellenic Bath or Cheltenham. The road from Lutraki to Corinth occupies nearly 2 hours, as has been said, and lies partly along the shore of the Gulf, and partly across the low undulating hills of the Isthmus. There is considerable cultivation, both of com and currants. The comparatively level ground of the Isthmus contrasts finely with the ridges of the Cxeranean moun¬ tains to the N. and of the Onean chain to the S.; but the Acro-Corinthus, rising abruptly in all its isolated grandeur, is one of the most striking objects of its class in the whole world. Col. Mure observes, that cc neither the Acropolis of Athens, nor the Larissa of Argos, nor any of the more celebrated moun¬ tain fortresses of western Europe—not even Gibraltar—can enter into the re¬ motest competition with this gigantic citadel. It is one of those objects more frequently, perhaps, to be met with in Greece than in any other country of Europe, of which no drawing can con¬ vey other than a very faint notion. The outline, indeed, of this colossal mass of rugged rock and green sward, inter¬ spersed here and there, but scantily, with the customary fringe of shrubs, although from a distance it enters into fine composition with the surrounding landscape, can in itself hardly be called picturesque; and the formal line of embattled Turkish or Venetian wall, which crowns the summit, does not set it off to advantage. Its vast size and height produce the greatest effect, as viewed from the 7 Doric columns stand¬ ing nearly in the centre of the wilder¬ ness of rubbish and hovels that, now mark the site of the city which it formerly protected.” The perpendicular height of the Acro-Corinthus above the sea is 1886 English feet. It is well de¬ scribed by Livy (xlv. 28) as “arx in immanem altitudinem edita j” and Sta¬ tius is not guilty of much exaggeration in the lines (Theb. vii. 106) :— “ summas caput Acro-Corinthus in auras ToUit, et. alterna geminum mare protegit umbra.” Lord Byron’s description is admi¬ rable, and his whole poem of the ‘ Siege of Corinth ’ will be read with great interest on the spot. CORINTH. Many a vanish’d year and age, And tempest's breath, and battle's rage, Have swept o’er Corinth ; yet she stands, A fortress form’d to Freedom’s hands. The whirlwind's wrath, the earthquake's shock, Have left untouch'd her hoary rock, The keystone of a land, which still, Though fall’n, looks proudly on that hill, The landmark to the double tide That purpling rolls on either side, As if their waters chafed to meet, Yet pause and crouch beneath her feet. But could the blood before her shed Since first Timoleon’s brother bled, Or baffled Persia’s despot fled, Arise from out the earth which drank The stream of slaughter as it sank, That sanguine ocean would o’erflow Her isthmus idly spread below: Or could the bones of all the slain. Who perish'd there, be piled again. 124 ROUTE 1.-CORFU TO ATHENS.-CORINTH. Sect. II. That rival pyramid would rise More mountain-like, through those clear skies, Than yon tower-capp’d Acropolis, Which seems the very clouds to kiss. Inns .—The Great Britain is kept by a civil and attentive person, and is as comfortable as can be expected in so poor a place. There is another inn. Travellers can breakfast in one of these before ascending the Acropolis. The traveller while in this neighbotu’- hood during the summer months cannot be too much on his guard agamst the Mai ana by which a great portion of Greece during the hot season is so ter¬ ribly affected. Many of our countrymen have fallen victims to the fever it occa¬ sions. The very term Greek fever has become proverbial as an affection which is either speedily fatal, or insidiously undermines the constitution till the sys¬ tem sinks under its influence. Corinth is on tills account to be passed in the sickly season as speedily as may be. From the remotest period of Grecian history, Corinth maintained, with a very small territory, a high rank among the states of Greece. Hers was the earliest school of policy and the arts, and she resisted the ambition of Rome to the last. By the peculiarity of her position, she became the centre of com¬ mercial intercourse between Europe and Asia, and the chief port for the exchange of commodities between Greece and foreign nations. These sources of power and wealth Were still further assisted by the great Isthmian games, which took place every 3rd year, in the immediate neighbourhood. Of all the Greek cities, Corinth was perhaps the most celebrated for its luxury, splendour, and volup¬ tuousness. Corinth joined the Achfean league against the Romans ; and for this was doomed to destruction by those un¬ forgiving conquerors. This treasury of the arts was consigned to the brute fury of the soldiery, when Mummius, assisted by the treachery of some of the citizens, gained admission into the city, B.C. 146. It was then plundered and destroyed by fire, and remained desolate for about a century, when a Roman colony was planted there, and the city was partially rebuilt by Julius Caesar. Finally, it shared the fate of the other towns of Greece, in the tremendous devastation wrought by Alaric the Goth. It is scarcely necessary to add that Corinth possesses for the Christian, the addi¬ tional interest of having been the resi¬ dence of St. Paul, and one of those churches to which lie addressed two of his epistles. Here the Apostle abode for 18 months, supporting himself by the work of his own hands ; here he was brought into contact with the hard and misympathizing dominion of Rome in the person of Gallio. To Corinth too were addressed those awful warnings of a world to come, and those matchless praises of Charity, so much needed among the proud and luxurious burgh¬ ers of the rich commercial city; and those similes drawn from the national games of Greece, so forcible here from the neighbourhood of the Isthmian fes¬ tival, where the Corinthians could so easily realize their vividness. In modern times, after many vicissi¬ tudes, Corinth was besieged and taken in 1459 by Mahomet II. It was trans¬ ferred by the Turks to the Venetians in 1698, and restored by them to the Turks in 1715. Under the Turkish rule, it was a town of considerable extent, though thinly peopled. The houses were intermingled with mosques, gar¬ dens, and fine fountains. During the late revolutionary war, Corinth was again reduced to ashes, not a building having escaped; and it now presents a mass of ruins and a most complete picture of desolation. A few streets have recently been rebuilt, and lines are marked out for the formation of new quarters, in which, however, but little progress has hitherto been made. On the establishment of the kingdom of Greece, the question naturally arose as to the choice of a future capital and royal residence. Nauplia, Argos, Patras, Corinth, and Athens were the towns whose claims alternately engaged the attention of the regency. But notwith¬ standing the apparent admirable com¬ mercial and military position of Corinth, the unhealthiness of the surrounding Northern Greece. ROUTE 1.-THE ACRO-CORINTHUS. 125 plain, and the impracticability of ever j forming a large and safe port in either I of the gulfs, turned the scale in favour j of Athens. There are but few remains of antiquity at Corinth. The ruins of two buildings of the Roman town still exist, viz., 1st, a large mass of brickwork on the north¬ ern side of the bazaar of Modem Corinth, probably a part of one of the J baths built by Hadrian. 2ndly, an amphitheatre, excavated in the rock, on the eastern side of the modem town, not j far from the left bank of the torrent which separates the Acro-Corinthus from the heights to the eastward. It is probable that this amphitheatre was a j work posterior to the time of Pausanias,! as it is not noticed by him. The area ] below is 290 feet by 190, the thickness of the remaining part of the cavea 100 feet. It is probable that it had a superstructure of masonry, supported by arcades, but no remains of it exist. At one end of the amphitheatre was a subterraneous entrance for the wild beasts or gladiators. The seven Doric columns , noticed by travellers in all ages, are still erect in the midst of modem desolation. "When Wheler visited Greece in 1676, there were 12 columns standing; and the ruin was in the same state when de¬ scribed by Stuart 90 years afterwards. It was in its present condition when visited by Mr. Hawkins in 1795. This temple appears to have had originally six columns in front; and it is conjec¬ tured by Leake to have been that dedi¬ cated to Athena Chalinitis. The great antiquity of the statue of the goddess, as described by Pausanias, and her epi¬ thet and worship connected with the favourite fable of Bellerophon and Pega¬ sus, one of the earliest events of Co¬ rinthian mythology, accord perfectly with the appearance of great antiquity in the existing columns. On a com¬ parison of these columns with the other most ancient temples, it would seem that the latest date that can be ascribed to this temple is the middle of the seventh century before the Christian era. Of the seven columns, five belonged to one of the fronts, and three, counting the angular column twice, to one of the sides of the Peristyle. The three columns of the side and the two adjoining ones in front have their entablature still rest¬ ing upon them, but one of them has lost its capital. Of the two remaining columns, the capital of one and the architraves of both are gone. They are 5 feet 10 inches in diameter at the base, and the shafts are formed of a single piece of limestone, covered with fine stucco. The temple must have been about 65 feet in breadth, but the ori¬ ginal length cannot be ascertained. The columns are of heavy and archaic propor¬ tion ; but constit ute the only important relic of ancient Corinth. The fountain ofPirene is frequently mentioned by the ancient writers. There appear to have been 3 springs of that name—the well in the Acro-Corinth, the rivulets which issue at the foot of the hill as described by Strabo, and the source below the brow of the table-land on which the present town is situated. Modem Corinth occupies the site of the ancient city, which is a table-land at the foot of the Acro-Corinth, overlooking a lower level extending along the sea-shore on one side to the isthmus, and on the other to Sicyon. This lower level was tra¬ versed by two parallel walls, which con¬ nected Corinth with Lechseum. Their length was 12 stadia. But scanty re¬ mains of the harbour of Lechseum are still visible, as has been said above. The Acro-Corinthus .—To ascend the highest point of the Acro-Corinthus is a laborious walk of one hour. This fortress stands at an elevation of 1886 feet, and is considered as the strongest fortification in Greece, next to that of Nauplia in Argolis. It would, if pro¬ perly garrisoned, be a place of great strength and importance. It abounds with excellent water, is in most parts precipitous, and there is only one spot from which it can be annoyed with artillery. This is a pointed rock a few hundred yards to the south-west of it, from which it was battered by Ma¬ homed II. Before the introduction of artillery it was deemed almost impreg- 126 ROUTE. 1.-CORFU TO ATHENS.-CORINTH. Sect. II. nable, and had never been taken, except by treachery or surprise. It shoots up majestically from the plain, and forms a conspicuous object at a great distance: it is clearly seen from Athens, from which it is not less than 44 miles in a direct line. A steep ascent winding through rocks on the west side leads to the first gate. During the time of the Turks, permission to view the Acro- Corintlius was rarely granted, but is now never refused. Within the fortress are but few objects of interest. The ruins of mosques, houses, and Turkish and Yenetian fortifications, are mingled together in one confused mass. Upon a platform in the upper part is an extensive building, now used as a bar¬ rack. The garrison usually consists of only 20 or 30 soldiers. Cisterns have been hewn in the solid rock to receive the rain-water; and in the hill are two natural springs, one of which, the famous JPirene, rises from a fountain of ancient construction, and has been cele¬ brated for the salubrity of its waters. After gushing from the rock, it branches into several limpid streams, which de¬ scend into the town and afford a con¬ stant supply of water; whence its ancient appellation of the “ well-watered city”— lu'uhrjw airTv. Corinth is called by Pindar the “ city of Pheneand the Corinthians are described in one of the Delphian oracles as “ those dwelling around the beautiful Phene.” (Herod, v. 92.) The splendid panoramic view from the summit of the Aero-Corinth is the great attraction, as it embraces the most interesting portion of Greece, and the scenes of many of her glorious actions. The following are the most striking points in the landscape:—The Sicyo- nian promontory, where the gulf of Corinth turns N.W. by 1ST. The foot of the promontory Cyrrha, N.N.W. The promontory Anticyrrha (now Aspras- pitia), with its bay, and, beyond it, the highest point of Parnassus, N. N.N.E., Mount Helicon, “ with a high hunch on its back like a camel.” The highest point of Mount Greranea, between Me- gara and Corinth, N.E, by N. The Isthmus itself runs E.N.E., towards the highest ridge of Mount Cithaeron. Beyond Cithaeron, eastward, follow Mounts Pames and Hymettus, and be¬ tween them appears the Parthenon upon the Acropolis of Athens. Then the island of Salamis, E. (or E. by S.), and iEgina, S.E. Strabo has accurately characterised the prominent features of this view, which comprehends eight of the most celebrated states of ancient Greece—Achaia, Locris, Phocis, Boeotia, Attica, Argolis, Corinthia, and Sicyonia. Leake says this “ view comprehends perhaps a greater number of celebrated objects than any other in Greece. Hy¬ mettus bounds the horizon to the east¬ ward, and the Parthenon is distinctly visible at a direct distance of not much less than 50 English miles. Beyond the isthmus and bay of Lechseum are seen all the great summits of Locris, Phocis, Bceotia, and Attica; and the two Gulfs, from the hill of Koryfe (Go- noessa) on the Corinthiac, to Sunium at the entrance of the Saronic Gulf. To the westward, the view is impeded by a great hill, winch may be called the eye-sore of the Acro-Corinthus, espe¬ cially with regard to modem war. Its summit is a truncated peak.” During the two first years of the re¬ volutionary war, the Acro-Corinthus was lost and regained three different times, without a shot being fired. The Turks surrendered it twice by capitula¬ tion, and once it was abandoned by the Greeks, betrayed by a base and cow¬ ardly priest left in command of it, who deserted it on the approach of Moham¬ med Dramali Pasha, before his army had appeared in sight. From Corinth the traveller -will pro¬ ceed to Kalamaki (2 hours) along the Isthmus of Corinth. The celebrated tract of limestone rock which connects the Peloponnesus with Northern Greece, and unites two chains of lofty mountains, is about 10 miles in length. Its width at Corinth is nearly as much, but at its northern extremity does not exceed 4 miles. At this point the small bay of Lutraki on the W. is 127 Northern Greece, tioute 1.—isthmts of corinth. joined with the httle secure harbom’ of' Kalamaki on the E. by an excellent \ road, the highest elevation of which is j probably not 100 feet above the sea. Kalamaki consists of store-houses, wine¬ shops, stables, and a small khan, where provisions may always be found. At these harbours the Austrian steamboats, from Trieste and Athens, meet twice a month, and regular stations have been built, as was already observed. On the above-named days plenty of carriages and horses are in attendance, and there is a good road from Corinth to each of these httle ports. The rough chasms, ravines, dells, cliffs, and ridges of the isthmus, covered with the Isthmian pine (Pinus maritima), and interspersed with occasional corn-fields, make the whole tract exceedingly interesting. The com¬ bination of sea and mountain on every side is also unusually beautiful. Six miles E. of Corinth on the Saronic gulf is Kenkres or Cenclirece, where St. Paul made his vow (Acts xviii. 18). The re¬ mains on this httle cove are chiefly of Roman brickwork. The so-called Bath of Helen is a stream of tepid, saline, and clear water gushing from a rock a few feet above the sea. But it is hardly worth the traveller’s while to diverge from the direct road between Corinth and Kalamaki. Leaving then Cenchreae on the right, and passing through the village of Hexamili , which gave its By¬ zantine name to the Isthmus, we reach, f of a mile S.E. of Kalamaki, the site of the famous Isthmian Sanctuary. It is a level spot, of an irregular quadrangular form, containing the temple of Posidon, a Stadium, and other buildings con¬ nected with the great Panhellenic festival celebrated here. The Sanctuary was surrounded on all sides by a strong wall, which can still be clearly traced; there are many ancient debris within the enclosure, which is about 640 feet in length ; but its breadth varies from i 600 to 300 feet. Pausanias’s account of the Isthmian Sanctuary is unusually brief and unsatisfactory. The northern portion of the walls which surrounded the Isthmian Sanctu¬ ary belonged to a line of fortification, which extended at one period across the Isthmus. This wall may still be traced in its whole extent, from the bay of Lechreum to the bay of Schcenus (Ka- lam&ki). At what period it was erected is uncertain. The first Isthmian wall mentioned in history, was that thrown up by the Peloponnesians, when Xerxes was invading G-reece. But this was a work of haste, and could not be the same as the massive Avail with towers, of which remains are still extant. Moreover, it is evident from the mili tary operations in the Corinthia, recorded by Thucydides and Xenophon, that in their time the Isthmus vras not defended by a line of fortification. It is not till Ave come to the period of the decline of the Roman Empire that we find mention of the regular Isthmian wall, which was then considered to be an important defence against the inva¬ sions of the barbarians. Hence, it was restored by Valerian, and by Justinian, and by the Greeks against the Turks in 1415 ; and after it had been destroyed by the Turks, it was rebuilt by the Venetians in 1463. It was a second time destroyed by the Turks ; and by the treaty of CarloAvitz, in 1699, the re¬ mains of the old walls were made the boundary line between the territories of the Turks and the Venetians. A short distance N. of the Isthmian wall, was the Diolcos, a level road, upon which small vessels were drawn by moving rollers from one sea to the other. The idea of cutting a canal across the Isthmus was frequently en¬ tertained in antiquity, from Periander to Xero ; but Nero alone actually com¬ menced the work. He continued it for a length of 4 stadia, when he was obliged to give it up in consequence of the in¬ surrection of Vindex in Graul. The canal was commenced upon the western shore, close to the Diolcos ; and traces of it may still be seen. It has now httle depth; but it is 200 feet wide, and may be traced for about 1200 yards. Kalamaki. — Some slight remains, near the modem Adllage, indicate the site of the ancient Schcenus, Avhich gave its former name to this port. Here will be 128 ROUTE 1.—-CORFU TO ATHENS. Sect. II. found another Steamer, winch will trans¬ port the traveller in 4 hours to the Piraeus, For an account of the routes by land from Corinth to Athens, see Route 11. The voyage from the isthmus to the Pireeus is very delightful and interesting. Salamis is on the left and iEgina on the right, and an amphitheatre of moun¬ tains all around. The battle of Salamis was fought in the narrow strait between that island and the mainland of Attica. We now enter the Pxr^tts, described in Route 2, for the traveller will, of course, proceed at once to Athens, and visit this locality on a future occasion. He had better entrust the care of his luggage, &c., to the representative of the Hotel at Athens, at which he has determined to stop, and who will be found on board the Steamer. Passports are very rarely de¬ manded, nor are the Custom-house re¬ gulations strict. An abundance of ve¬ hicles of all kinds will be found at the landing-place, to convey the traveller over the five miles’ distance to Athens. The Acropolis, with its glorious group of ancient buildings, is before the tra¬ veller in all its grandeur during the whole of this drive. ATHENS. Come, blue-eyed maid of heaven!—but thou, alas! Didst never yet one mortal song inspire— Goddess of Wisdom! here thy temple was, And is, despite of war and wasting fire, And years, that bade thy worship to expire : But worse than steel, and flame, and ages slow, Is the dread sceptre and dominion dire Of men who never felt the sacred glow That thoughts of thee and thine on polish’d breasts bestow. Ancient of days! august Athena! where, Where are thy men of might ? thy grand in soul ? Gone—glimmering through the dream of things that were: First in the race that led to Glory’s goal. They won, and pass’d away—is this the whole ? A school-boy’s tale, the wonder of an hour! The warrior’s weapon and the sophist’s stole Are sought in vain, and o'er each mouldering tower, Dim with the mist of years, gray flits the shade of power. Son of the morning, rise ! approach you here! Come —but molest not yon defenceless urn; Look on this spot—a nation's sepulchre ! Abode of gods, whose shrines no longer burn. Even gods must yield—religions take their turn: ’Twas Jove’s — ’tis Mahomet’s — and other creeds Will rise with other years, till man shall learn Vainly his incense soars, his victim bleeds; Poor child of Doubt and Death, whose hope is built on reeds. Bound to the earth; he lifts his eyes to heaven— Is ’t not enough, unhappy thing! to know Thou art? Is this a boon so kindly given, That being, thou wouldst be again, and go, Thou know'st not, reck’st not to what region, so On earth no more, but mingled with the skies ? Still wilt thou dream on future joy and woe? Regard and weigh yon dust before it flies : That little urn saith more than thousand homi¬ lies. Or burst the vanish’d Hero's lofty mound ; Far on the solitary shore he sleeps: He fell, and falling nations mourn’d around ; But now not one of saddening thousands weeps, Nor warlike worshipper his vigil keeps Where demi-gods appear’d, as records tell. Remove yon skull from out the scatter'd heaps: Is that a temple where a God may dwell ? Why ev’n the worm at last disdains her shatter'd ceil! Look on its broken arch, its ruin’d wall, Its chambers desolate, and portals foul: Yes, this was once Ambition’s airy hall, The dome of Thought, the palace of the Soul: Behold through each lack-lustre, eyeless hole, The gay recess of Wisdom and of Wit, And Passion’s host, that never brook'd control : Can all saint, sage, or sophist ever writ, People this lonely tower, this tenement refit ? ***** Here let me sit upon this mossy stone, The marble column’s yet unshaken base ; Here, son of Saturn ! was thy fav’rite throne : Mightiest of many such! Hence let me trace The latent grandeur of thy dwelling-place. It may not be : nor ev’n can Fancy’s eye Restore what Time hath labour’d to deface. Yet these proud pillars claim no passing sigh; Unmov’d the Moslem sits, the light Greek carols by. ***** Cold is the heart, fair Greece ! that looks on thee, Nor feels as lovers o’er the dust they lov’d; Dull is the eye that will not weep to see Thy walls defac'd, thy mouldering shrines remov’d By British hands, which it had best behoved To guard those relics ne’er to be restored. Curst be the hour when from their isle they roved, And once again thy hapless bosom gored, And snatched thy shrinking gods to northern climes abhorred I ’ Published, by John Murray Albemarle Street*. Northern Greece. ROUTE 2. -MODERN ATHENS. ROUTE II. ATHENS, AND THE PIRJEUS ; WITH THEIR ENTIRONS. A.—MODERN ATHENS. Hotels. —Owing to the transition state of Greece, the Hotels, like everything else, have been constantly changing. Some idea may be formed of the accu¬ racy of this statement from the fact that in the spring of 1845, when the second edition of the Handbook for the Hast was published, there was scarcely at Athens an inn or lodging-house in existence which had been described in the first edition of that work, published in 1840. And at the present day (1853), the hotels existing in 1845 have all ceased to exist, or changed proprietors and management. At Athens there are now three first-class hotels, all three at least as good as those in the large towns of Italy : indeed they leave little to de¬ sire. They are the Hotel d’Angleterre ; the Hotel d' Orient; and the Hotel des Htrangers. Of these the two former are at present under the direction of the well-known Elias Polychronopulos and Yard Adamopulos; while the third is managed by Demetrius Pomoni, also long well-known as a travelling servant in Greece. These are all deserving men, and their inns are among the best in the S. and E. of Europe. A wholesome and lively competition, however, is ne¬ cessary to keep down prices and secure unremitting attention. At present the whole expense of living at either of the three averages about 10 francs a day for each traveller. This charge includes lodging and board at the table d'hote. The best plan for those travellers who mean to prolong their residence at Athens would be to make a private bargain for accommodation at one of these three chief hotels. The two first-named Hotels {d' Angle¬ terre and d’ Orient ) are situated near each other, at the northern extremity of Eolus Street, and command an extensive prospect towards the Piraeus, Mount Pames, and the olive-groves of the Academy. The Hotel des Etrangers is also placed in a good situation, on one 129 side of the square in front of the Palace. Several other inns exist at Athens; among which the best ai’e the Hotel de VEurope, and the Hotel du Parnasse. There are a few other small inns and restaurants of an inferior order; but some of them are merely Greek eating- houses, and are not much adapted to the reception of English travellers. Lodging-houses. —The two best are that kept by M. Rupp, a German, and which is chiefly frequented by German, French, and Italian travellers ; and that under the management of Madame Franqois Vitalis, who can accommodate a limited number of lodgers in clean and well-furnished apartments. Her residence is known as the Maison Strong, and is in the neighbourhood of the University. Coffee-houses. — Cafes, resembling those of Italy, abound in all Greek towns. The two best at Athens are the Cafe d' Orient, and the Cafe de la Belle Grice, both situated in Eolus Street, near the centre of the city. Houses. —House rent is enormous at Athens, considering the condition of the country. The seat of government was transferred to Athens from Nauplia in 1834, and King Otho made his public entry in the December of that year. The medieeval town had been completely devastated during the war of independ¬ ence ; and that which has arisen on its ruins since 1834 has the general appear¬ ance of a German city. The ruinous walls, 4 miles in circumference, which surrounded Athens in the time of the Turks, have been pulled down, in order to extend the Hellenic capital. A new quarter of good houses has been built on the N. side of the city, stretching westward from the Palace till it reaches Eolus Street. This is the “ West End” of Athens ; and here are the residences of the diplomatic corps, including the English Minister. All these houses are solidly built, and many are large and commodious. The rents are from 50 1. to 600?. per annum, unfurnished. Straight lines for wide streets and boulevards have been marked out in other direc- Gr 3 130 ROUTE 2. -MODERN ATHENS. Sect. II. tions, and well-built bouses are spring¬ ing up on every side. Some of the in¬ ferior streets are still encumbered with ■wretched hovels and the ruins of the Turkish town, which, previously to the removal of the Court to Athens, ren¬ dered it a labyrinth of narrow, crooked, and irregular lanes. The population of Athens before the Revolution amounted to from 12,000 to 15,000 ; it is now (1853) estimated at nearly 30,000, in¬ cluding foreigners. Shops. —The shops of Athens have been much improved of late years ; but there is no single establishment to com¬ pensate for the excellent English maga¬ zine of the late Mr. Browne, which has been closed since his death. M. Mav - richi in Eolus Street, and the Messrs. Bernau in Hermes Street, are the pro¬ prietors of the best substitutes for the shop of Mr. Browne. Here may be procured groceries, drawing materials, cutlery, and a variety of English and Erench articles. For foreign hooks, prints, maps, &c., the shop of M. Hast, a Herman book¬ seller, in Eolus Street, is the best. Mrs. Bracebridge’s Panorama of Athens, a most pleasing and artistic performance, which every traveller should procure, will be found at Nast’s, The map of Athens, published by the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge, and surrounded by Professor Cockerell’s Pa¬ norama, is now somewhat out of date. The best is that published by Kiepert, and which is nearly the same as that given in this Handbook. Besides Kie¬ pert, the French Government has re¬ cently published a magnificent Map of Greece on a very extended scale. The booksellers for the sale of modem Greek works, school-books, &c., are Coromelds, Antoniades, Blastos, and Oarbolds in Hermes Street. For dry goods and varietes, the shops of Messrs. Philip,frhres, Girakas, Thro- nos, and Passulis, in Hermes Street, are the most noted. Physicians and Surgeons. —There are several excellent medical men in Athens. The most distinguished are Doctors Treiber, Poser, and Lindermeyer (Ger¬ mans) ; and Doctors Olympius, Macas, and Costis (Greeks). These gentlemen have all been educated in Northern or Western Europe, and speak several languages. Mr. Black, professor of English, &c., and husband of Lord Byron’s “ Maid of Athens,” gives lessons in Modem Greek and other languages, and may be applied to for general information with regard to the country where he has been esta¬ blished amidst all its vicissitudes for many years. Bankers. —Besides the National Bank of Greece, there are several foreign and G-reek banking-firms at Athens. The English traveller will of course deal with the correspondent of his LondonBanker. The London Custom-house Agents have also correspondents here, who will un¬ dertake the conveyance to England of any curiosities, luggage, &c., with which they may be entrusted. With the ex¬ ception of chibouques, sticks, and pipes made of the blackthorn of Parnassus, and Greek or Albanian dresses (which cost from UP. to 3CP., or even 50/., ac¬ cording to them quality), there are few curiosities worth purchasing at Athens. Travelling Servants (General In¬ troduction, f, pp. 14-17). The best travelling servants and valets-de-place will be found at the three principal hotels. Those especially recommended are— Elias Polychronopulos and Yani ( Johannes ) Adannopulos, now joint pro¬ prietors of the Hotels d'Angleterre and d’ Orient:—Demetrius Pomoni, propri¬ etor of the Motel des Etrangers :— Nicholas Combotecra (of Patras) :— George Stratis: and Alexander (of Corfu). The last speaks English well; as do some of the others, though imper¬ fectly ; they all speak French and Ita¬ lian. No traveller should engage a ser¬ vant who is not recommended by the roprietors of the chief hotels, or who as not already travelled with English¬ men. For the nature of the arrange¬ ments made see General Introduc¬ tion,/. English Church. —TheEnglish Church at Athens may be said to owe its foun¬ dation to C. H. Bracebridge, Esq., of Northern Greece. ROUTE 2. -MODERN ATHENS. 131 Atkerstone, in Warwickshire, who has resided much in Greece, and is the pro¬ prietor of considerable property in Athens and its neighbourhood. The first conception of such an undertaking and the first subscription to it proceeded from Mr. Bracebridge ; and these were followed by zealous and unceasing efforts in England until the edifice was Com¬ pleted. The structure was commenced in 1840, and the Church was conse¬ crated by the Bishop of Gibraltar (Dr. Tomlinson) on Easter Sunday, 1843. It is a neat Gothic building, beautifully situated on the Boulevard, in the imme¬ diate vicinity of the temple of Jupiter Olympius, and commanding a prospect of the Gulf of Salamis with its islands and the surrounding mountains. The cost of the site, and of the erection of the Church, with the internal fittings (including an organ and organ-gallery, &c.), has already been paid, so that there is no debt to be discharged; still, as there is no endowment nor fund for the current expenses and repairs, the Trustees depend chiefly upon the libe¬ rality of occasional visitors, for whose accommodation, in fact, the Church was mainly erected, the number of residents in Athens, who are members of the Church of England, being very small indeed. Funds are now required to erect a vestry-room, and to enclose with a wall and iron railing the peribolus round the Church-. The service is per¬ formed with regularity throughout the year on Sundays and on the chief Festi¬ vals and Easts, at 11 a.m. and 3| o’clock p.m. The Chaplain is the distinguished American clergyman, the Rev. J. H. 1 Hill, who was appointed in 1845 by Lord Aberdeen to the Chaplaincy of the British Legation at Athens. Such an appointment, rarely conferred except on a British subject, was a graceful and well-deserved acknowledgment of the eminent services rendered by Mr. Hill to the cause of Greek education. The Protestant Cemetery is at some little distance from the English Church, near the banks of the Ilissus. The American Female Schools at Athens have always attracted the at¬ tention of intelligent travellers. They were commenced by the Rev. J. H. Hill and Mrs. Hill, who were sent out by the Protestant Episcopal Church in the United States in 1831. At that period no other female school existed in Greece, except that of the Church Missionary Society in Syra, which was founded by an American missionary in 1829. After the establishment of the Greek kingdom the royal government made an arrangement with Mr. Hill for the education of a certain number of girls as future schoolmistresses in the provinces ; and from this origin have arisen all the female schools of Greece. Hundreds of well-educated women are now dispersed throughout the kingdom, who have all been brought up under the care of Mr. and Mrs. Hill. Nor is this all; with one single exception, all the Greek ladies who have been, and who still are, maids of honour to the Queen of Greece, were also educated under their roof. In 1842 the establishment for domestic education was transferred to the care of the newly formed Greek Society for the promotion of education ; but the department for day scholars is still continued, and is as flourishing as ever. The municipality of Athens has recently opened a public school for the education of girls, and this is the second large institution which has sprung up in consequence of the benevolent and successful efforts of these missionaries of the American Church. The yearly expenses of the American female schools amount to from 750?. to 1000?.; and these funds are provided by the Epis¬ copal Church in the United States, and not by any missionary society what¬ soever. Every branch of female educa¬ tion is carried on upon the most liberal scale; and the best teachers in every department of knowledge are employed. These schools have now continued throughout a period of nearly a quarter of a century to enjoy the favour and confidence of the Greek go¬ vernment and people; and the King has invariably manifested his interest in them, and his personal regard for their directors. 132 ROUTE 2. -MODERN ATHENS-THE UNIVERSITY. Sect. II. Besides tlie American schools there are now various public schools under the direction of the Minister of Pubhc Instruction. There is an Infant School, and several schools for the lower classes, chiefly on the Lancasterian plan. There is also a Seminary or Normal School for the training of schoolmasters. The Polytechnic School, where geo¬ metry, drawing, history, mathematics, &e. are taught on scientific principles, is a valuable adjunct to the other educa¬ tional institutions, and instructs candi¬ dates for commissions in the Greek army. The Ilisari ^Ecclesiastical Seminary, opened in June, 1844, was founded by a benevolent Greek of that name, for the education of students of divinity, pre¬ vious to then.' attending the lectures of the university. A suitable building was provided by the founder, to which a hall and chapel have been added. About 20 students are lodged and educated gratuitously : a further number is re¬ ceived on payment of a very moderate fee. This establishment is also under the Minister of Instruction, assisted, however, by a committee of manage¬ ment. There is a rector with other officers. The Gymnasium, corresponding to one of the great Colleges in France, has a large body of professors and masters, and about 600 pupils ; the senior classes receive an education fitting them for the university, Perhaps the most important, as well as the finest modern building in Athens, is the University (navs ,founded in 1837, and which is regarded as the central place of education for the whole Hellenic race. Though Ms design is as yet not fully completed, the architect, Mr. Hansen (from Denmark), has seized' the opportunity of giving _ an illustration of the Polychromatic paint¬ ing of the pcients, which he has ac¬ complished with much taste, but which would have been far more valuable had the funds at his disposal sufficed to carry it out farther by shading the columns, and painting rilievos ip the corridor. King Otho, who has given Ins name to the university, presented a handsome portico of Pentehc marble; on each side of wliich an open corridor serves at once for a shady walk along the front of the building, and for access to the lecture-rooms, wMch are suffi¬ ciently commodious. There is also an anatomical theatre, council-room, &c. In the centre a handsome double flight of stairs leads to the library, and also by a common central landing to a richly decorated portal, wMch gives entrance to the Great Sail, and other apart¬ ments not yet completed. The Library is a noble room running over the lec¬ ture-rooms described below, and divided into two principal sections by the reading-room. The collection already amounts to nearly 80,000 volumes, though on the appointment of the pre¬ sent zealous and accomplished librarian, Dr. Typaldo (a native of Cephalonia), in 1842, there were only 8000 hooks of all sizes, including pamphlets. The great increase since that period has arisen cHefly from the donations of various European governments and uni¬ versities, and is the result of the li¬ brarian’s great industry in pressing the claims of the university of Athens on the attention of men of learning throughout the world. Ho regular pro¬ vision is made by the Greek govern¬ ment for the purchase of books, and only a very limited sum is allowed annually for binding and other inci¬ dental expenses. There is also a choice collection of coins amounting to nearly 5000, the greater part of wMch have been collected or obtained by Dr. Ty¬ paldo. The library is open to all from 10 to 3 ; and the greatest politeness is shown to strangers by the librarian and his assistants. The University has been cMefly raised by subscriptions, the larger portion of wMch is due to Greeks resident in foreign countries. The students now amount in the aggregate to about 600. The professors are numerous, and are all men of respectable, some of eminent, attainments. Lectures are delivered and degrees conferred in the four fa¬ culties cf divinity law, medicine, and 133 Northern Greece, route 2. —modern Athens—the paxace. arts. The University is governed by an academical council of its own profes¬ sors, presided over by the rector or vice- chancellor (Jlaviravt;'), who is one of the professors taken in rotation. The whole is under the supervision of the Minister of Instruction. The general system pursued resembles that of the German and Scotch Universities. Among Greeks of all classes there is an eager desire for instruction; and pro¬ bably at least as many persons are at present under education at Athens as in any other European town of the same population. There are also several literary and scientific societies. The Observatory, situated on a rising ground H. of the Pnyx, is, with its in¬ struments, the offering to his country of Baron Sina, a wealthy Greek gentle¬ man, long one of the principal bankers of Vienna. The Chamber of Deputies (BouXw) is a temporary octagon hall attached to the house which King Otho inhabited on his first arrival at Athens, before the erection of the palace. On the walls are inscribed the names of the principal heroes of the Greek revolution. The Senate (fi^ovsla) meets in an apartment of the same building. Strangers are admitted to both houses without any difficulty, as also to the adjacent read¬ ing-room. The Palace, commenced in 1836 and terminated (except some offices and in¬ ternal decorations) in 1843, is the most conspicuous building in Athens. It is situated on a gentle eminence at the foot of Mount Lycabettus, and faces a square which is about j of a mile from the centre of the city. It is a huge quadrangular building, of which the sides are 300 and 280 feet. There are two internal courts, separated from each other by two enormous and highly- decorated saloons, used for ball-rooms, and on state occasions. The front of the palace has a portico of Pentelic marble; the frontispiece towards the front, and all the window-frames, cor¬ nices, angles, plinths, &c., as well as a colonnade on the S. side, are of the same material, but the massive walls are of broken limestone faced with cement. The royal apartments are de¬ corated in the style of Munich, and one hall has a series of Greek portraits and historic pictures. There is a Homan Catholic chapel for the king, and a Protestant chapel for the queen. The palace is shown by tickets, which can be procured on application by a valet- de-place, but it possesses few remark¬ able attractions. Attached to the palace is a garden and shrubbery. It was on the square in front of the palace that the people and military assembled on September f 3 , 1843, and remained for ten horns without com¬ mitting the smallest act of violence or bloodshed. It must he confessed that this was a model revolution. After much hesitation, King Otho at length yielded to the demands of the liberal leaders, and signed the constitutional charter; calling at the same time a national convention, and forming a new ministry. Full details of these events will be found in the Parliamentary Papers, containing Sir E. Lyons’ and Lord Aberdeen’s despatches, &c., or¬ dered to be printed by the House of Commons, in March, 1844. There are several public buildings be¬ sides those already described, such as the barracks, the mint, the civil hos¬ pital, the military hospital, the theatre (where plays and operas are sometimes given by Italian performers), &c.; but none of them deserve particular notice. The principal thoroughfares are Hermes Street and iEolus Street, which inter¬ sect each other at right angles nearly at the centre of the town. The former is parallel with the Acropolis, and divides Athens into two almost equal parts ; the latter rims across the city from S. to X., beginning at the Temple of the Winds at the foot of the Acropolis. Bazaar or Market Street, so called from its containing the shops for the supply of the various articles required by the population, is about J of a mile in length, branching off from JEolus Street. The principal commodities ex¬ posed for sale here are “ caviar, onions, tobacco, black olives, figs, rice, pipe3 134 ROUTE 2 . -MODERN ATHENS-CHURCHES. Sect. IT. with amber mouth-pieces, rich stuffs, silver-chased pistols, dirks, belts, and embroidered waistcoats ” (Wordsworth). The houses in the principal streets are generally built in the modern German style. The minor streets of Athens are hardly deserving of the name, being merely narrow lanes, displaying a marked contempt for all regularity. The population is, in outward appear¬ ance at least, more heterogeneous in its composition than that of any other town of its size. Greeks, in their splendid national costume, are jostled in the streets by islanders and Le¬ vantines of motley garb, by French and English naval officers from the vessels of war in the Piraeus, by French, Ita¬ lian, and German artists, merchants, and travellers. European shops invite purchasers by the side of Eastern bazars.; coffee-houses, billiard-rooms, and restaurants are open in all direc¬ tions. The mixture of its population bears a striking analogy to the curious contrasts presented by the city itself. The same half-acre of ground often con¬ tains two or three remaining columns of an ancient portico, a small Byzan¬ tine chapel of the middle ages, a dilapi¬ dated Yenetian watch-tower, a ruinous Turkish mosque, with its accompanying cypress and palm trees, and a modem fashionable residence; thus distinctly exhibiting the different phases of the varied existence of this celebrated city. The most interesting relics of medics - val Athens are the few churches which have escaped the ravages of the revolu¬ tion. In the time of Justinian, Athens possessed 300 churches ; the principal of those still remaining are 1. The old Cathedral , one of the most interesting specimens of the By¬ zantine style, and well worth the artist’s and architect’s study. It is built of massive blocks of white marble, some of which were evidently taken from ancient pagan temples. A frieze running along the front is curiously carved, and a beautiful antique fragment, consisting of two metopes and two triglyphs, surmounts the arch over the door. The interior was covered with paintings, of which traces still remain. Couchaud (Choix d’Bglises Byzantines en Grice) assigns this church to the 6th century a.d. Too small to serve as the metro¬ politan church of the Hellenic capital, this curious building has been turned into a sort of museum since the revolu¬ tion. A new Cathedral has been erected within the last few years ; it contains some handsome columns of Pentelicus marble, but is built rather after the Basilican than the Byzantine model (see General Introduction, m, pp. 35, 36). 2. The Church of St. Theodore is the most complete and best preserved By¬ zantine church in Athens. It is built of stone with courses of brick. 3. St. Nicodemus is a spacious but sadly dilapidated Byzantine church. 4. Kaynicarea is a well preserved and picturesque Byzantine church, at the comer of one of the streets inter¬ secting iEolus Street. 5. The Church of the Angels (had- /jjiztoi), with some fresh fresco paintings, is about 1 mile from Athens on the road to Pentelicus. Character of the Athenians. — The modem Athenians, like the ancient, have been noted among their own countrymen for their quickness, viva¬ city, and restlessness. Plunged for centuries in barbarism, and subject to the galling yoke of a foreign despotism, it is not surprising that they should have inherited many of the vices with¬ out the virtues of their forefathers. But now that their nationality has been restored, and the light of civiliza¬ tion has again been poured upon their country, it may, we trust, be inferred that the seeds of the ancestral character which abound in their constitution, will finally ripen into such qualities as may render them worthy denizens of the soil, unde humanitas, doctrina, re- ligio, fruges, jura , leges ortce atque in omnes terras distributes putantur. The women of Athens are not, in general, so remarkable for their beauty, as some of their countrywomen in other parts of Greece. The ladies of the higher ranks now usually dress in the Northern Greece. ROUTE 2. -MODERN ATHENS. 135 fashions of "Western Europe. As a description of their manners under the Turkish regime at the beginning of the present century, we extract the follow¬ ing interesting account of the c Maid of Athens ’ and her family, from the travels of the late eminent artist, Mr. H. Williams, who lodged, as Lord Byron did, in the house of Theodora Macri, the widow of an English vice- consul at Athens:— “ Our servant, who had gone before to procure accommodation, met us at the gate, and conducted us to Theodora Macri, the Consulina’s, where we at present live. This lady is the widow of the consul, and has three lovely daughters; the eldest celebrated for her beauty, and said to be the ‘ Maid of Athens ’ of Lord Byron. Then apart¬ ment is immediately opposite to ours, and, if you could see them, as we do now, through the gently waving aro¬ matic plants before our window, you would leave your heart in Athens. Theresa (the Maid of Athens), Catinea, and Mariana, are of middle stature. On the crown of the head of each is a red Albanian skull-cap, with a blue tassel spread out and fastened down like a star. Near the edge or bottom of the skull-cap is a handkerchief of various colours bound round their temples. The youngest wears her hair loose, falling on her shoulders, the hair behind descending down the back nearly to the waist, and, as usual, mixed with silk. The two eldest generally have their hair bound, and fastened under the handkerchief. Their upper robe is a pelisse edged with fur, hanging loose down to the ankles ; below is a hand¬ kerchief of muslin covering the bosom, and terminating at the waist, which is short; under that, a gown of striped silk or muslin, with a gore round the swell of the loins, falling in front in graceful negligence; white stockings and yellow slippers complete their attire. The two eldest have black, or dark, hair and eyes ; their visage oval, and complexion somewhat pale, with teeth of dazzling whiteness. Their cheeks are rounded, and noses straight, rather inclined to aquiline. The youngest, Mariana, is very fan*, her face not so finely rounded, but has a gayer expres¬ sion than her sisters, whose counte¬ nances, except when the conversation has something of ninth in it, may be said to be rather pensive. Then per¬ sons are elegant, and then manners pleasing and ladylike, such as would be fascinating in any country. They pos¬ sess very considerable powers of con¬ versation, and their minds seem to be more instructed than those of the Greek women in general. With such attrac¬ tions, it would indeed be remarkable if they did not meet with great atten¬ tions from the travellers who occasion- ally~are resident in Athens. They sit I in the eastern style, a little reclined, I with then’ limbs gathered under them on the divan, and without shoes. Their employments are the needle, tambour¬ ing, and reading.” The ‘ Maid of Athens ’ is now Mrs. Black ; and one of her sisters is the wife of M. Pittakys, Ephor or Conservator of Antiquities, and author of an interesting account of them, entitled Uancienne Athenes. The reader must take into consideration the number of years which have elapsed, since Mr. Williams’s description of these ladies was written before the Greek Revolution. After this sketch of the actual condi¬ tion of modern Athens, we shall proceed to give a brief but systematic account of its situation, history, antiquities, &c. A full illustration of this part of our subject would, of course, require volumes. Besides the admirable article ‘Atliense’ in Dr. Smith’s Dictionary of An. Geog., we refer the traveller also to Leake’s Topography of Athens and Demi of Attica, to Wordsworth’s Athens and Attica, and to Penrose’s Prin¬ ciples of Athenian Architecture. These works will afford all necessary informa¬ tion. Travellers of distinction some¬ times apply to M. Pittakys, the Con¬ servator of Antiquities, himself; that gentleman, however, should not be re¬ quested to render his services without some previous introduction, or at any moment w r hich may suit the traveller’s 136 ROUTE 2. -MODERN ATHENS-THE ENVIRONS. Sect. II. convenience. An order from M. Pitta- kya’ office is required for admission to the Acropolis, and is granted on ap¬ plication ; but a small fee to the veterans of the Revolution who are quartered there will generally serve the same purpose. If the weather be favourable, a moonlight visit should be paid to the Acropolis during the tra¬ veller’s stay in Athens. The following plan for the disposal of 4 days in Athens and its vicinity may facilitate the traveller in his selection:— 1. Sunrise from the Acropolis; visit the monuments there: then the Areo¬ pagus, Pnyx, Temple of Theseus, Monu¬ ment of Pliilopappus, Odeum of Herodes, Dionysiac Theatre (under a cavern in the south side of the Acropolis, with 2 pillars above it), Temple of Jupiter Olympius, Ilissus, Fountain of Callir- rhoe, Panathenaic Stadium, Arch of Ha¬ drian, Monument of Lysicrates, Tower of the Winds, Agora, Stoa of Hadrian. These objects lie within a short distance of each other; and there is little of mo¬ dern or medigeval interest to withdraw the attention from the antiquities. 2. Ride. —1 mile to Colonos, the low white bill to the north of Athens, the scene of one of the plays of Sophocles. On an adjoining eminence there is a monument of white marble in memory of the eminent G-erman scholar and antiquary, K. O. Muller, who died of fever in Greece, a victim to his zeal for classical research. There is a good view of Athens, with its plain, the Gulf, and the mountains, from the “ white brow of Colonos.” Thence ride through the neighbouring olive-groves of the Academy, watered by the Cephis- sus, and so to the pass of Daphne. Then return to the Pirceus, and ride round by the tomb of Themistocles, and the harbours of Munychia and Phalerum. From the latter return straight to Athens. The above ride is neither very long nor very fatiguing. 3. Marathon (20 miles) and back; with a relay of horses, or in a carriage as far as Cephissia , a village at the foot of Pentelicus, and nearly half-way. Go by Yrana and return by the village of Marathon. The best view of the plain is from the hill in descending to Vrana. 4. On this day you may go up either Pentelicus or Hymettus , or drive in a carriage to Megara and back. If you go up Pentelicus, you see the marble quarries, and enjoy a splendid view of Marathon and all Attica. If you go up Hymettus, you have a good view of Athens, and of the three plains of Attica. You can ride all the way up Pentelicus (in 3 or 4 hours from Athens), and nearly all the way up Hymettus. Those who wish to see at a moderate expense of time and money what is best worth seeing, should then take the steamer, which leaves the Piraeus twice a month for Hauplia. It starts in the evening and arrives at Nauplia at 6 a.m. the following morning, which will give time to visit Tiryns, Mycenae, and Argos, returning to Yauplia the same evening before the steamer starts. It reaches the Piraeus at 6 A.M. on the ensuing morning, .the voyage averaging from 10 to 12 hours. Corinth can be visited (see Route I.) as the traveller proceeds to Corfu and Trieste by the Austrian steamer, as the passengers are detained at the isthmus for half a day. Northern Greece. ROUTE 2.-ANCIENT ATHENS. 137 B.—ANCIENT ATHENS. I. Situation .— II. History .— III. Divisions, extent, population, Sfc.—TV. Topo¬ graphy and general Survey of the Acropolis. (1. Temple of Victory —2. The Propylcea —3. The Parthenon — I. The Frechtheurn .)— V. Topography of the Asty (oIittv). 1. The Horologium of Andronicus Cyrrhestes, or “ Temple of the IVinds’’ —2. Date of Athena Archegetis —3. Gymnasium of Hadrian —- 4. Gymnasium of Ptolemy —5. The Theseum —6. Hill of the Nymphs — 7. The Pnyx —8. The Agora —9. The Museum —10. The Fountain of Callirrhoe — 11. The Panathenaic Stadium —12. The Olympieum —13. Arch of Hadrian — 14. The Choragic Monument of Lysicrates — 15. The Dionysiac Theatre — 16. The Odeum of Herodes or Pegilla — 17. The Areopagus — 18. The Ceramicus. Academy, Sfc .— 19. Other Monuments, Aqueduct of Hadrian, cfc. —YL Pireeus, and the Port Towns (Suburbs). —YII. Environs of Athens. I. Situation. —- Athens is situated about 5 miles from the sea, in the central plain of Attica, which is bounded on the NAY. by Mt. Pames, on the N.E. by Mt. Pentelicus, on the S.E. by Mt. Hymettus, and on the W. by Mt. JEgaleos. On the S. it is open to the Gulf of Salamis, or Saronic Gulf. The most prominent eminence in the plain is a conical peak (now surmounted by the chapel of St. George), formerly not incorrectly identified with the An - chesmus of Pausanias, but now gene¬ rally called by its more ancient and famous name, Lycabettus. This hill is to Athens what Monte Mario is to Borne, Yesuvius is to Naples, or Arthur’s Seat to Edinburgh ; and from its summit the site and neighbourhood of Athens he unrolled before the eye as in a map. SAY. of Lycabettus are four eminences, all of which were in¬ cluded in the ancient city. Of these the nearest to Lycabettus is the Acro¬ polis, a craggy rock rising to a height of about 350 feet above the plain, with a flat summit of about 1000 feet long from E. to W., by 500 feet broad from N. to S. _ Immediately W. by N. of the Acropolis is a lower eminence of irre¬ gular form, the Areopagus. The hill to the W. by S. is the Pnyx, and to the S. W. is a fourth hill, the Museum. On the S.E. of the city runs the Ilissus, and on the ~W. the Cephissus, two rivulets which become nearly dry in summer. They fall into the Saronic Gulf, near the three ancient ports of Ph’ffius, Munychia, and Phalerum, or rather are swallowed up by the marshes in those parts. The Athenian soil and climate exer¬ cised an important influence upon the buildings of the city and the manners of its ancient inhabitants. Hence we may account for the meanness of their pri¬ vate houses, and the practical defects of theh streets and domestic architecture; hence certainly it was that in the best days of Athens the people worshipped, legislated, and witnessed dramatic repre¬ sentations under the open sky. The J transparent clearness and brilliant j colouring of the Athenian atmosphere, J the flood of fire with which the marble j columns, the mountains, and the sea are all bathed and penetrated by an J Athenian sunset, the violet hue which Hymettus assumes in the evening sky, in contrast to the glowing rock of Lycabettus and the rosy pyramid of Pentelicus, all have been felt and ad¬ mired by both ancient and modem poets and travellers. Euripides de¬ scribes his countrymen as “ ever lightly tripping through an ether of surpass¬ ing brightness ” (Medea, 825); and Milton sums up in his noble lines (Paradise Regained, lib. iv.) many of the peculiar characteristics of the cli¬ mate and scenery, as well as many of the immortal associations of Athens :— Where on the Egean shore a city stands, Built nobly, pure the air, and light the soil; Athens, the eye of Greece, mother of arts And eloquence, native to famous wits Or hospitable, in her sweet recess, City or suburban, studious walks and shades. See there the olive grove of Academe, 138 ROUTE 2. -ANCIENT ATHENS. Sect. IT. Plato’s retirement, where the Attic bird Trills her thick-warbled notes the summer long; There flowery hill Hymettus, with the sound Of bees' industrious murmur, oft invites To studious musing; there Ilissus rolls His whispering stream within the walls; there view The schools of ancient sages ; his, who bred Great Alexander to subdue the world, Lyceum there, and painted Stoa next : There shalt thou hear and learn the secret power Of harmony, in tones and numbers hit By voice or hand ; and various-measured verse, JEolian charms and Dorian lyric odes, And his who gave them breath, but higher sung, Blind Melesigenes, thence Homer called, Whose poem Phoebus challenged for his own : Thence what the lofty grave tragedians taught In Chorus or Iambic, teachers best Of moral prudence, with delight received In brief sententious precepts, while they treat Of fate, and chance, and change in human life. High actions and high passions best describing: Thence to the famous orators repair, Those ancients, whose resistless eloquence Wielded at will that fierce democratie, Shook the arsenal, and fulmined over Greece To Maeedon and Artaxerxes’ throne : To sage Philosophy next lend thine ear, From heaven descended to the low-roofed house Of Socrates ; see there his tenement, Whom well-inspired the oracle pronounced Wisest of men ; from whose mouth issued forth Mellifluous streams, that watered all the schools Of Academies old and new, with those Surnamed Peripatetics, and the sect Epicurean, and the Stoic severe. The traveller will be glad to read Lord Byron’s description of an Athenian sunset, while he has an opportunity of testing its remarkable accuracy :— Slow sinks, more lovely ere his race he run. Along Morea’s hills the setting sun ; Not, as in northern climes, obscurely bright, But one unclouded blaze of living light 1 O’er the hushed deep the yellow beam he throws Gilds the green wave, that trembles as it glows. On old iEgina’s rock, and Hydra's isle, The God of Gladness sheds his parting smile ; O'er his own regions lingering, loves to shine, Though there his altars are no more divine. Descending fast the mountain shadow's kiss Thy glorious gulf, unconquered Salamis 1 Their azure arches through the long expanse More deeply purpled meet his mellowing glance; And tenderest tints, along their summits driven, Mark his gay course, and own the hues of heaven ; Till deeply shaded from the land and deep, Behind his Delphian cliff he sinks to sleep. Dr. Holland gives the following true picture of Athens :— “ Those who expect to see in Athens only the more splendid and obvious testimonies of its former state, will be agreeably disappointed. The Parthe¬ non, the Temple of Theseus, the Pro- pylsea, are individually the most striking objects ; yet it may perhaps be added that they have been less interesting singly than in their combined relation to that wonderful grouping of nature and art which gives its peculiarity to Athens, and renders the scenery of this spot some thing which is ever unique to the eye and recollection. Here, if any¬ where, there is a certain genius of the place, which unites and gives a cha¬ racter and colouring to the whole; and it is further worthy of remark, that this genius loci is one which strikingly con¬ nects the modern Athens with the city of former days. Every part of the sur¬ rounding landscape may be recognised as harmonious and beautiful in itself, and at the same time as furnishing those features which are consecrated by ancient description, by the history of heroic actions, and still more as the scene of those celebrated schools of phi¬ losophy which have transmitted their influence to every succeeding age. The stranger who is unable to appreciate the architectural beauties of the tem¬ ples of Athens, yet can admire the splendid assemblage they form in their position, outline, and colouring, can trace out the pictures of the poets in the vale of Cephissus, the hill of Colo- nos, and the ridge of Hymettus. can look on one side on the sea of Salamis, on the other on the heights of Phylse. Nowhere is antiquity so well substan¬ tiated as at Athens, or its outline more completely filled up to the eye and to the imagination.” The character of the landscape round Athens is very peculiar; its simplicity of outline and colouring, combined with the magnificence of form and extent. It cannot be called rich scenery, for, with the exception of the olive-grove of the plain, the landscape is devoid of wood. An air of repose is one of its chief characteristics; the form of the hills, and the plain terminating in the calm bay of Salamis, contribute to pro¬ duce this effect, which is, however, to be ascribed more particularly to the eye always finding a resting-place on Northern Greece, route 2. —ancient Athens—the acropolis. 139 the height of the Acropolis, and the magnificent ruins covering its summit. II. History .—The political history of Athens forms the most prominent feature in the general history of Greece, and is of course entirely beyond the scope of the present work. All that can be here attempted is to give a sketch of the varied fortunes of the City. The most ancient part of Athens, the Acropolis , is said to have been built by the mythical Ceerops, but the city itself is said to have owed its origin to The¬ seus, who united the independent tribes of Attica into one state, and made Athens their capital. In historical times, the first attempt to embelhsh the city was made by Pisistratus and ! his sons (b.c. 560-514), who, like many [ other ancient and modem despots, j erected temples and other public build- 1 ings. A new era begins after the Persian war, when Athens was reduced to ashes by Xerxes. The city was soon rebuilt and j fortified under the administration of The- mistocles, and was adorned with public I buildings by Cimon, and especially by I Pericles, in whose time (b.c. 460-429) it reached its greatest splendour. By | the aid of the spoils acquired in the Persian war, and by the contributions j of the subject states, and by the still j more important assistance of Phidias, ; and of a whole group of the greatest j sculptors and architects whom the ■world has ever known, Pericles was I enabled to carry his noble designs into [ execution, and to bequeath to his coun- j try those glorious monuments, which [ have been the admiration of all suc¬ ceeding ages. Although these remains have suffered cruelly from earthquakes and the ravages of war, and from cen¬ turies of injury and spoliation, they still continue the grandest, the most interesting, and some of them the most perfect relics of antiquity that now ex¬ ist, and bear testimony to the superi¬ ority of the Athenians in taste and genius over every other people of ancient or modem times. The Peloponnesian War put a stop to the further embellishment of Athens. On the capture of the city in b.c. 404, the fortifications and Long Walls were destroyed by the Lacedsemonians ; but they were restored by Conon in b.c. 393, after gaining his great victory off Cnidus. The public buildings were repaired and beautified after this period ; and though I its suburbs were ravaged in B.c. 200 by the last Philip of Macedon, Athens continued both under the Macedonians and the Homans to be a great and flou¬ rishing city. Having espoused the cause of Mithridates, it was captured by Sulla b.c. 86, when its fortifications were levelled to the ground, and its privileges greatly curtailed. At that period, however, and during the first centuries of the Christian sera, it con¬ tinued to be the chief seat of learning in the ancient world, and the Homans were accustomed to send their sons to Athens, as to an University. Hadrian frequently resided in the city, and adorned it with many new buildings (a.d. 120-128); and his example was followed by Herodes Atticus, a wealthy private citizen, who lived in the reigns of Antoninus and M. Aurelius. Athens was never more splendid than in the time, of the Antonines, when visited by Pausanias. The great works of the age of Pericles were then still in freshness and perfection; nor do they appear to have suffered materially until the incursions of the Goths under Alaric in a.d, 396. The pagan religion and schools of phi¬ losophy continued to flourish at Athens until the time of Justinian in the sixth century, when they were finally abo¬ lished. At that period many of the temples were converted into churches. Thus the Parthenon, or temple of the Yirgin-Goddess, became a church con¬ secrated to the Virgin-Mother; and the temple of the old pagan warrior Theseus was dedicated to the Christian warrior St. George. An admirable compendium of the history of the city of Athens will be found in Leake’s Introduction to his Topography of Athens. The following extracts will be read with especial in¬ terest :— “ Homer, the earliest of Greek his- 140 ROUTE 2. —ANCIENT ATHENS. Sect. IT. torians, has left us a strong confirma¬ tion of the reality of those facts, which are not obviously fabulous, in the his¬ tory of the two great heroes of ancient Attic story, Erechtheus and Theseus. He notices the temple of Erechtheus, and those periodical sacrifices of an ox and a sheep (II. ii., 546), which we know to have been performed to a very late pei'iod of Athenian superstition; and, in confirmation of the political reforms of Theseus, instead of naming all the cities of Attica, as he has done in the other provinces of Greece, he speaks of Athens alone, and of the people of Erechtheus, that terrible A Ti^os, whose first specimen of tyranny and ingratitude was the banishment of their great benefactor himself, whom they left to die in exile in the island of Scyrus.During the six or seven centuries which elapsed between the Trojan war and the reign of Pisistratus, the Athenians seem to have been not more engaged in foreign wars or in¬ ternal commotions than was sufficient to maintain their martial spirit and free government, both of which were essen¬ tial to the progress made by them in civilization, commerce, and a successful cultivation of the arts. The change of chief magistrate from king to arcbon for life, then to decennial and to annual archon, indicates that gradual increase, first of aristocratical, and then of popular authority, which ended in a purely democratical government. . . . During the ages which elapsed between the reigns of Theseus and Pisistratus, we may suppose that the advance of art caused the altars of the several deities, whose worship had been esta¬ blished, to be converted into temples, or their temples to be renewed upon a larger and more elegant plan. A body of the Pelasgic nation, distinguished as Pelasgi, Tyrrheni, or Tyrseni, sought refuge in Attica from their enemies, and were employed by the Athenians to fortify the Cecropian hill. “By establishing a public library, and by editing the works of Homer, Pisistratus and his sons fixed the Muses at Athens; while by raising the quad¬ rennial revolution of the Panathenaic festival to a footing of equality with the other similar assemblies, and by up¬ holding it during their united reigns of about 30 years, they greatly advanced the dignity of the republic among the states of Greece.Hitherto, how¬ ever, the progress of the useful and ornamental arts had scarcely been so great at Athens as in some other parts of Greece, as at Sicyou, Corinth, Angina, Argos, Thebes, and Sparta. Still less was she able to bestow that encouragement upon the arts which they received in the opulent republics of Asia; for, although her territory was more extensive, and her resources already greater than those of any of the states of Greece Proper, except Sparta, they were still insufficient to bestow adequate ornament upon a city which was already the most populous in Greece. It was to an event the most unlikely to produce such a result, that Athens was indebted for a degree of internal beauty and splendour, which no other Grecian city ever attained. The King of Persia, in directing against Greece an expedition of a magnitude unparalleled in the operations of one nation against another, made the cap¬ ture of Athens his principal object. His success was most fortunate for the Athenians; for by forcing them to con¬ centrate all their exertions in their fleet, in which they were as superior in num¬ bers to any of the other states of Greece as they were in skill to the Persians, it led to their acquisition of the chief honour of having obliged Xerxes to return in disgrace to Persia, followed by such a degree of influence in Greece, that even the rivals of Athens were under the necessity of giving up to her the future conduct of the war, now be¬ come exclusively naval. By these means the Athenians acquired an in¬ creasing command over the resources of the greater part of the islands, as well as of the colonies on the coasts of Asia, Macedonia, and Thrace; and thus, at the very moment when the destruc¬ tion of their city rendered it necessary for them to renew all their principal buildings, fortune gave them sufficient means both to maintain their ascendency in Greece, and to apply a part of the wealth at their command in the indul- Northern Greece. ROUTE 2. —ANCIENT ATHENS. 141 gence of their taste and magnificence. The same sources of wealth continuing, and even increasing during the half- century which intervened between the victory of Salamis and the Pelopon¬ nesian war, the injury inflicted upon the buildings of Athens by the Persians was not only fully repaired, but those new and splendid edifices w'ere erected which continued to be one of the chief glories of Athens, until Europe becoming too unenlightened to be sensible of the beauty of such objects, they remained for more than twelve centuries unknown or unnoticed; Greece itself during all the latter part of this time having been the prey of a race of Oriental invaders far more barbarous than those of ancient times. “There are few problems moredifficult of solution than to find a sufficient reason for the perfection which the Greeks attained in the elegant arts, and for its wide diffusion among them dur¬ ing several centuries. Something may be attributed to the more acute percep¬ tions, to the more beautiful forms and colours of animate and inanimate nature, and to the brighter skies of a southern climate. Something more may be as¬ cribed to circumstances from which we are happy to be exempt; such as the eager collision of rivalry between small independent states, the excitement given j to the imagination, and the encourage¬ ment afforded to the display of its powers by a mythology closely allied to the senses, and which gave the honours of divinity to the productions of the artist: even with these advan¬ tages, to arrive at the productions of the age of Pericles required several centuries of trials and improvements, during which extreme diligence was applied by a series of gifted men to one pursuit, which, when successful, ob¬ tained as much worldly fame and advan¬ tage as that of arms, or of the conduct of public affairs. Without such an equalization of the rewards of genius and labour, science, literature, and the arts, are more degraded than encouraged or protected.” During the Middle Ages Athens sank into a provincial town, and is rarely men¬ tioned by the Byzantine writers. After the capture of Constantinople by the Latins in 1204, Boniface, Marquis of Montferrat, obtained the greater part of Northern Greece, which he governed under the title of King of Thessalonica. He bestowed Athens as a Duchy upon one of his followers, a Burgundian, named Otho de la Koche ; and the city remained in the hands of the Franks, with various alternations of fortune, until its incorporation with the Turkish empire in 1456. The Parthenon was now converted from a Christian Church into a Mahommedan mosque. In 1687, the buildings on the Acropolis suffered severe injury in the siege by the Vene¬ tians under Morosini. Hitherto the Parthenon had stood almost uninjured for 2000 years; Spon and Wheler visited Athens in 1675, and have left an account of it as it then appeared ; but in 1687 it was reduced to a ruin by the explosion of a quantity of powder which had been placed in it by the Turks. The Acropolis was again used as a for¬ tress during the War of Independence (1821-1827), and suffered severely from both Greeks and Turks. It was the scene of two devastating sieges and of repeated conflicts. Mr. Waddington (now Dean of Durham) thus describes Athens in 1824 :—“ The modem town of Athens was never remarkable for beauty or regularity of construction : it has now suffered the demolition of about one-third of its buildings. Many Turkish houses were burned by the Greeks, in the first siege of the Citadel; many Greek houses were destroyed during the occupation of the place by Omar Brioni (an Albanian general) ; and many of both have fallen into the streets from mere neglect. The Churches and Mosques have not met with greater mercy in this religious war; and even the ashes of the dead have not been allowed to repose in secu¬ rity.” Again, when Dr. Wordsworth visited Greece in 1832, he has recorded that there was “ scarcely any building at Athens in so perfect a state as the Temple of Theseus.” In 1834, Athens was declared the 142 ROUTE 2. -ANCIENT ATHENS. Sect. IT. capital of the new Kingdom of Greece ; and all the Turkish houses which for¬ merly encumbered the Acropolis have now been removed, and measures taken to preserve the still existing remains of antiquity. The present town has sprung up almost entirely since 1834. III. Divisions, Extent, Population, Sfc .-—Ancient Athens consisted of three distinct parts, united within one line of fortifications. I. The Acropolis. II. The Asty (to” A a-rv), or Upper Town, in opposition to the Lower Town of Piraeus, and therefore, in its widest sense, including the Acropolis. III. The Port-Towns, i.e. the Pirseus, including Munychia and Phalerum. Extent .—The entire circuit of the walls of Athens was 175 stadia (22 miles), of which 43 stadia belonged to the city, 75 stadia to the long walls, and 57 stadia to the port-towns. The Long Walls connected the city with the sea, and were built under the administra¬ tions of Themistocles and Pericles. They consisted of the wall to Phalerum on the E., and of the wall to Pirseus on the W., each about 4 miles in length: between these two, at a short distance from the latter and parallel to it, ano¬ ther wall was erected, thus making two walls leading to the Pirseus (sometimes called the Legs, erxsXti), with a narrow passage between them. There were, therefore, three Long Walls in all, but that name seems to have been confined to the two leading to the Pirseus, while that leading to Phalerum was distin¬ guished by the appellation of the Pha- lerian wall. The Long Walls were in ruins in the time of Pausanias, Their foundations may still be traced in many places near the road between Athens and the Piraeus. Population, S(c .—The chief authority for the population of ancient Attica is the census of Demetrius Phalereus, taken b.c. 317. According to this cen¬ sus, there were 21,000 Athenian citizens, 10,000 resident aliens (mlroixoi), and 400,000 slaves. It may be assumed from various authorities that by the term citizens all the males above the age of 20 are meant. The aggregate of the whole population of Attica must therefore have exceeded half a million in ancient times. At the present day it certainly does not exceed 40,000 souls. It is impossible to determine the exact population of Athens itself. Xeno¬ phon states that the city contained up¬ wards of 10,000 houses. If we assume about 12 persons to a house, we obtain 120,000 for the population of the city ; and we may perhaps assign 40,000 more for the collective population of the ports. Although we know that the Athe¬ nians were fond of a country life, and that the deme of Achamse alone furnished 3000 hoplites, still we cannot be very far wrong in calculating that Athens con¬ tained at least a third of the aggregate population of Attica. Ancient Athens was undoubtedly in¬ ferior to ancient Rome in the pavement of its streets, its sewers, its supply of water, &c. It was the magnificence of the public buildings which compensated for the poverty and meanness of the domestic architecture. As Col. Mure observes, what Horace said of the pri¬ mitive worthies of his own country will apply with still greater justice to the Athenians during then’ most flourish¬ ing period:— “ Privatus illis census erat brevis. Commune magnum.” Northern Greece, route 2. —ancient Athens—tiie acropolis. 143 The Acropolis restored. IV. Topography of the Acropolis .— The Acropolis may be considered, first, with respect to its natural fea¬ tures ; secondly, in its earlier state before the invasion of the Persians ; thirdly, in its meridian splendour; and, lastly, in its present state. The general form is that of a rocky plat¬ form, composed of a coarse red marble or highly crystalline limestone. It is very irregular in its shape—the length being about 1100 feet, and the extreme breadth near the middle about 450 feet. It is precipitous, except towards the W., where a narrow neck of high ground connects it with the lower rocky eminence of the Areopagus. The sides of the table-rock rise abruptly, in some places nearly 150 feet, from the steeply sloping talus or hill side upon which it rests. The neck just men¬ tioned to the W. is continuous with the talus. The summit is about 300 feet above the town, 270 above the pave¬ ment of the Theseum, and 250 above that of the temple of Jupiter Olympius. Although the Acropolis is not preci¬ pitous towards the W., the slope is still very steep, and that point, whilst it gave facilities for access, could be made very strong by art. Accordingly, we find that the Propylaea, which spanned the entire space between the precipices from N. to S., was at once made suffi¬ ciently strong in its outworks to defend the Acropolis, considered as a citadel, and capacious in its unrivalled archi¬ tecture as a vestibule to the renowned sanctuary of Minerva. When we pass the Propylaea, and go eastwards, we find that the surface of the rock rises at first at a slope which forms a steep road, and becoming more gentle as it proceeds, finally reaches its highest point^near the eastern end of the Parthenon. The rise between the Pro¬ pylaea and this point is about 40 feet. It then falls about 15 feet to the eastern extremity of the enclosure. In height the Acropolis is greatly exceeded by Lycabettus, more than a mile distant to the N.E., but it com¬ mands extensive views on every other side, excepting that the very summit of the Museum, the hill surmounted by the Monument of Philopappus to the S.S.W., rises high enough to inter¬ fere and to detract from the Acropolis from some points of view; and has often proved an inconvenient and dangerous neighbour : both in the times of the suc¬ cessors of Alexander, when the town was overawed by a Macedonian garri¬ son which occupied that height, and still more during the last 200 years, in the Turkish wars, irreparable injury has been inflicted on the Parthenon and other monuments by the Venetian, 144 ROUTE 2. -ANCIENT ATHENS-THE ACROPOLIS. Sect. II. Greek, and Turkish batteries, -which have been at various times there planted. However, the greater extent of the Acropolis makes it in the gene¬ ral view domineer over this unlucky eminence, and all the other contiguous heights are so subordinate as by their contrast rather to enhance its dignity than otherwise. Thus, from all sides, except from such a distance to the N.E. that Lycabettus, or from such nearer points to the S.W. that the Mu¬ seum, interferes, commanding views are to be obtained of the Acropolis not unworthy of its fame. The finest of all these views are generally from the N.; from the N.E., near the King’s Palace, and from the slopes of Lyca¬ bettus ; from the S.E., beyond the Ilis- sus, not far from the temple of Jupiter Olympius ; from the slopes and sum¬ mit of the Pnyx, S.S.W. and W.; and, above all, from the N.W., at the com¬ mencement of the olive grove near the Academy, a view which has been very nicely engraved from a di’awing by Prof. Cockerell, and forms the frontis¬ piece to Mr. Wordsworth’s Athens and Attica. But rides or rambles in any direction through this olive grove will be certain to afford enchanting views of the Acropolis, especially in an after¬ noon, when the remains of the marble temples sparkle in the vivid sunlight, and the deep but transparent purple of the background—the “ purpureos colies florentis Hymetti ”—throws them out in fuller relief. If any traveller could so completely disengage himself from the cares of his luggage and the trou¬ bles incident on his first arrival at a new place, as to take a horse and guide at the Piraeus, and follow the course of the Cephissus northwards, and enter Athens by the sacred road which leads from Eleusis by the pass of Daphne, his first impressions of the Citadel of Minerva would be more agreeable and more just than he would obtain by following the usual course along the dusty and uninteresting road leading directly to Athens from the Piraeus, along which the hills to the W. and S.W. greatly obstruct the views of the Acropolis. The Tyrrheni Pelasgi, that mysteri¬ ous race, who flourished before the dawn of history, probably in the first instance occupied Athens and its Acropolis. It is not within the com¬ pass of a guide-book to go into the difficult question of the origin and migrations of this people. Suffice it to say that it is certain that one race, or several races so nearly allied as to be almost identical in their mytho¬ logy, occupied, at a period anterior to the Trojan war, the Peloponnesus, the greater part of continental Greece, and a very large portion of Italy and Sicily. The account of the introduc¬ tion into Athens of the worship of Minerva by Cecrops, and the story of Neptune’s yielding to her the tutela of the city, seem to point out the arrival of the Ionian race; that the latter soon afterwards took the lead, and ultimately made Athens what she was. Herodotus tells us that the people had originally been called Pelasgi, after¬ wards Cecropidse, and lastly, under Erechfheus, Athenians. The Pelasgi, therefore, it would seem, had in the first instance established themselves in the Acropolis, and fortified it after their manner. This view is rather confirmed than otherwise by an Athenian tradition, according to which a body of the Tyrrheni Pelasgi sought refuge in Attica from their enemies, and were employed by the Athenians to fortify the Cecropian hill. They had a place immediately underneath the rock, near the western end of the N. side, assigned to them for their abode, and called Pelasgicum. They were afterwards expelled from thence because they conspired against the Athenians. After this, no one was allowed to build or cultivate in that part, possibly from an apprehension of attack in that quarter, for there the rock, though steep, is full of fissures, and there would he some danger lest the basis of the walls should he under¬ mined if an enemy should be able to conceal himself among houses built close up to it; or it might be injured by excavations made clandestinely for domestic purposes. In later times it has been found necessary to support the wall in that part with an enormous Northern Greece, route 2. •-ANCIENT ATHENS-THE ACROPOLIS. 145 buttress, and several large masses seem to have fallen down from time to time. To figure to ourselves, there¬ fore, the Acropolis as it existed before the Persian invasion, we must suppose the rock crested with the original polygonal walls of the Pelasgi, to which the Cecropidae had added little or nothing. The western access being defended by an elaborate system of works called Enneapylon (tmaa-vXsv), or the Nine Gates ; this name showing that, after the manner of the Pelasgi, the innermost keep was strengthened by numerous enclosures, with avenues constructed on the principle of obliging the assailant to expose his unshielded side to the enemy. The strength of these works was very great: for we learn that at the time of the invasion of Xerxes some of the Athenians did not follow Themistocles to the ships, but thought that the interpretation of the wooden walls required by the oracle, was rather the strengthening the weaker parts of the Acropolis with wooden palisades, which were soon burnt. They were, nevertheless, enabled to defend the Enneapylon; and the Acropolis was taken by some mountaineers in the Persian" army climbing up on the N. side, near the Erechtheum, w here the steepness of the rock was supposed to be a sufficient protection, and was left unwatched by the slender garrison ; or, perhaps, as Wordsworth suggests, by the treachery of the Pisistratidae they may have be¬ come possessed of the stair and pass- age which leads from the Aglaurium up into the Acropolis, which we shall hereafter describe, and it was there that they made their ascent. The Persians seem entirely to have de¬ stroyed the Pelasgic defences, and the Athenians were afterwards obliged to reconstruct them entirely; for al¬ though the rebuilding of the walls was a matter of the greatest urgency, in consequence of the ambition of the Spartans, the old walls could not be repaired, but were obliged to be built afresh. This perhaps was not neces¬ sary on the S. side, where the wall was afterwards rebuilt on a grander scale by Cimon ; but for a great portion-—as Greece. the existing remains show—and pro¬ bably^ over the whole extent of the N. side, instead of repairing the Pelasgic defences, they were entirely recon¬ structed with the remains of the tem¬ ples which the Persians had thrown down. This forms a very interesting illustration to the account by Thucy¬ dides of the diplomatic success of Themistocles in gaining time during his embassy to Sparta, while all hands at home were employed in rebuilding the city walls. A very small piece of the polygonal wall of the e vEGt'ruXov re¬ mains to the S. of the Propylaea, ex- tending to the outer wall in a direc¬ tion N. and S. There are also some marble foundations near it, which are not parallel with the Propylaea, but they can hardly be so old as the Per¬ sian invasion. Most likely they be¬ longed to some building which was erected after that event, but which Pericles did not scruple to remove in order to erect the present magnificent entrance. The walls of rectangular blocks of Pirai'c limestone, which are observable underneath the Propylaea to the W., cannot, by their style of ma¬ sonry, be Pelasgic, but are probably remains of defences erected in the time of Themistocles, and superseded by the outworks of the Propylaea, built by Pericles. A fine specimen of a somewhat Pelasgic character of masonry may be seen in the wall which supports the area of the Pnyx towards the Areopa¬ gus, which will be described here¬ after. To complete our conception of the Acropolis before the Persian invasion we must suppose it covered with mean buildings, from which two temples rose conspicuous. Of these temples, one, the most sacred, was the earlier Erechtheum, dedicated to Neptune and Minerva Polias, the burning of which is expressly mentioned by Herodotus and others; and another larger tem¬ ple, sacred to Minerva, on the site of the present Parthenon. The existence of this latter temple is not indeed made known to us by contemporary history, but by unquestionable local evidence. There is little doubt that a number of H 146 ROUTE 2. -ANCIENT ATHENS-THE ACROPOLIS. Sect. II. fragments of columns and entablatures which are to be seen built up in the N. wall of the Aci’opolis, and which we shall shortly have occasion to men¬ tion again, belonged to this temple, and sufficient data may be gathered from these fragments, and from the indica¬ tions on the groundwork of the Parthe¬ non, to conclude that this temple had Doric columns of C feet 3 inches in diameter; 6 columns in each front; and 14 on the flanks, reckoning the angle columns twice ; and that its length was about 176 feet, and the breadth 65 feet. The date of this temple, judging from the fragments, may perhaps be referred to the time of Pisistratus, or a little earlier. [See ‘ Principles of Athenian Architecture,’ p. 73.] Our object will now be to describe the Acropolis as it existed in all its splendour. But first a circuit of the walls may advantageously be made, be¬ ginning with the Propyhea, and going round by way of N. and E. GROUND PLAN OF THE ACROPOLIS A> D THE IMMEDIATE NEIGIIEOURHOOD. AA. Southern or Cimonian Wall. BB. Northern or Pelasgic Wall. 1. Parthenon. 2. Erechtheurn. 3. Propylaea. 4. Temple of Nike Apteros: beneath is T. of Ge Curo- trophus and Demeter Chloe. 5. Pedestal of the Statue of Agrippa. 6. Quadriga. 1. Statue of Athena Proma- chus. 8. Gigantomachia. 9. Temple of Rome and Au¬ gustus. 10. T. of Artemis Brauronia. 11. Odeum of Herodes or Re- gilla. 12. Dionysiac Theatre. 13. Odeum of Pericles. 14. Stoa Eumeneia. 15. Grave of Talus or Calus. 16. Eleusinium. IV. Aglaurium. 18. Grotto of Pan. 19. Pelasgicum. 20. Asclepieura. 21. T. of Aphrodite Pandemus. 22. Temple of Themis. 23. Grave of Hippolytus. 24. Statues ofHarmodius and Aristogeiton. 25. Altar of the Twelve Gods. The plan is borrowed from Dr. Smith's Dictionary ; but it should be observed, that, as it was made before M. Beule’s discoveries of the western entrance. No. 24 should be placed about 150 feet further N. And No. 25, according to some authorities, stood nearer the centre of the Agora, a good deal to the W. of the position here given. Leaving for the present the mediseval Beule’s excavations, to which we shall outworks at the extreme W. of the j again call attention, we come to a bas- Acropolis, recently laid open by M. | tion built in the year 1822 by the Greek Northern Greece, koute 2. —ancient Athens—the ackopoeis. 147 General Odysseus to defend the ancient well under the N. wing of the Propvkea, to which there is access from above by an antique passage and stair of 47 steps, for the most part cut in the rock. This passage terminates in a small chapel with niches cut in the sides. The well has a peristomium of marble, and was described by Mr. Wordsworth in 1S33 as containing water at a distance of about 3u feet. There is no doubt but that this well is the famous fountain Clepsydra ; so called because it was in¬ termittent, the supply being greatest at the commencement, and least at the falling off of the Etesian winds. t was anciently called Empedo, and was supposed to have a subterranean com¬ munication with Phalerum. Beyond the bastion we come to two caves close together, or rather a double cave, of no great depth, which was dedicated to Apollo and Pan. Miltiades introduced the worship of Pan in consideration of sendees supposed to have been rendered at Marathon. Within the cave are various sinkings which once held tablets or votive offerings. Close to the cave the foot ascent, from which the passage to the Clepsydra just men¬ tioned branches off, began to ascend the rocks towards the Propylsea. Near this spot to the N. was the Pelasgicvm, already mentioned. Mr. A. P. Stanley Class. Mus., vol. i. p. 53 ) remarks how “ the gloom of the black shade thrown by the steep precipice would conspire with the memory of a hateful race to make the Athenians hate the spot.” About 200 feet to the eastward °c u T ^ ave P an > in the midst ot the Long rocks, as that part of the precipice was called, and at their foot,is a remarkable cavern, and 120feet further on and immediately under the wall of the citadel, not many yards from the northern portico of the Erech- theum, is a smaller one. Within the latter are remains of 13 niches. The former has great antiquarian interest. Leake (p. 2C6) shows that in all pro¬ bability this cavern must have had a communication with the Acropolis abo\ e, and this has since been proved to be the fact. Wordsworth identi¬ fies this cavern as the grotto of Agraulos. Close by, a little lower down the hill, was a temple of the Dioscuri vCastor and Pollux), named the Ana- ceium. Polyaenus relates that when Pisistratus had seized the Acropolis, his next object was to disarm the Athenians. For this purpose he sum¬ moned an assembly in the Anaceium; descending into which he addressed the people in so low a tone of voice, that in order to hear they were obliged to crowd about him. While thus engaged, their arms were seized upon by the adherents of Pisistratus, and conveyed into the Agraulium, which was, as'we know, in communication with the -•cropolis. The Anaceium -was a strongly fortified post. Returning to the Cave of Apollo and Pan for Mie purpose of examining the walls themselves, we find alarge but¬ tress of not very ancient construction. The rock is here very steep and crested by the wall. On passing round a salient angle, where there is a small buttress, we find a nearly straight line of wall for about 210 feet, then a short bend to the S.E , afterwards a further straight reach for about 120 feet, nearly parallel to the former. The first of these two lines of wall contains very interesting remains of a Doric entablature of Piraic limestone; and the second, of frusta of columns and steps of Pentelic marble. They evidently' belonged to the same building; and there can be no reason¬ able doubt that this building was the Temple of Minerva which preceded the present Parthenon on the same site, as already mentioned. The fragments of entablature are in two separate groups. The architrave stones, although they have the same height, differ con¬ siderably in length in the two groups : those in the western group averaging about 13 feet 3 inches, and the others 12 feet 7 inches. The columns were of two sizes, the larger 6 feet 3 inches, and the smaller 5 feet 7 inches in diameter. The temple therefore must have had a difference in its front and flank intercolumniations, and the columns of the Pronaos and Posticum must have been smaller than those of the Peristyle. These data have been H 2 148 ROUTE 2. --ANCIENT ATHENS-THE ACROPOLIS. Sect. II. of service in arriving at the general di¬ mensions of the temple given above. A mediaeval buttress, about 100 feet from the N.E. angleof the Erechtheum, forms the termination of the second reach of wall, viz. that in which are the frusta of columns. From hence to the N.E. angle of the Acropolis, occur several large squared stones, which also appear to have belonged to some early temple. The wall into which these as well as the fragments before mentioned are built, seems to be of Hellenic con¬ struction. From opposite the Erech¬ theum, to the north-eastern extre¬ mity, the natural rock, although still very steep, is less inaccessible than almost anywhere else, except at the Propylsea; the wall immediately sur¬ mounts the cliff. The eastern wall of the Acropolis appears to have been entirely rebuilt in the middle ages on the old foundations. On this side a ledge of several feet in width is left between the summit of the precipice and the base of the wall, flanked by a small square tower, which projects in front of the curtain at the N.E. corner. Near the middle of this reach of wall there is a large cavern in the rock. This and the slope which it surmounts is considered by Leake to have been the Eleusinium—a hierum inferior only in sanctity to the temple of Ceres at Eleusis. He also supposes it to have been a kind of outwork to the Acro¬ polis, and that there was a communica¬ tion with the upper citadel through the cavern. For we learn from Thucydides that in the beginning of the Pelopon¬ nesian war the Eleusinium was strongly fortified, and guarded with the greatest jealousy. Little more is known of this temple. Pausanias, in all matters con¬ nected with the Mysteries, is a tire¬ some guide. Of this sanctuary he says, “ While intending to proceed further in this matter (T. of Triptolemus), as well as in those things which relate to the Athenian temple called Eleusinium, I was deterred by a vision in my sleep.” Southwards of this cave the rock be¬ comes remarkably fine and precipitous. At the S.E. angle we again find the Hellenic masonry of the S. wall or Cimonium (built by Cimon the son of Miltiades). Twenty-nine courses re¬ main, making 45 feet of height. This wall, instead of being perpendicular, “ batters ” a little, the stones being set back from those below them, about an inch in each course. As we follow the wall westwards, we find that it has been almost entirely cased in mediaeval and recent times, and is further sup¬ ported by nine buttresses. Among the stones which form this casing may be noticed a few small fragments of statues, one or two of a very fine character. The Hellenic masonry can he traced all along, as far as the Propylsea, under the easing, where the latter has been shat¬ tered. ,The centre of the Dionysiae Theatre occurs about 200 feet from the eastern end of the Cimonium. This theatre we shall describe in its proper place. A little westward of it occurs a deep course of the Pirai'c limestone, a fragment of some early temple. A little further on, the wall is 05 feet high and batters 7 feet. This is much loftier than any part of the wall to the North, but the rocks are less precipitous. The difference is mainly this, that there a very steep cliff is little more than crested by the wall; here a cliff less strong by nature is encased by an arti¬ ficial construction of great importance. Beyond the point last mentioned, the wall takes a bend to the W.N.W., and terminates in a solid tower about 30 feet high, which is surmounted by the small Ionic temple of Victory without Wings, which will be described below. Until lately the only entrance to the Acropolis was immediately under the W. face of this tower: but we may now pass through the new opening formed in the western wall of the mediaeval outworks, from whence we commenced our circuit, and ascend in a direct line from the W., that is, from the ancient Agora. The Acropolis—the city of Ceerops and the cradle of Athens, after the invasion of Xerxes, ceased to be inha¬ bited as a town and became one great sanctuary, partitioned only by the boundaries of the sacred portions or Tipitn, for we learn that in the Pelo¬ ponnesian war, when the inhabitants of Northern Greece. ROUTE 2. -ANCIENT ATHENS-TIIE ACROPOLIS. 149 Attica crowded to Athens and every available space was allotted to them; even then, so sacred was the Acropolis, that it remained uninhabited. (Thucyd. ii. 17.) It Mas, nevertheless, to be used as a citadel to retire to, but only in the last extremity, as in modern warfare churches have sometimes been resorted to. “In order then,” as Leake says (p. 309), “to form a due concep tion of the effect of this storehouse of the arts, and to do justice to Athenian taste, we must imagine the platform of the hill cleared of everything but the temples and a few buildings necessary for their administration, and thus form¬ ing one vast composition of architecture and sculpture; or, to use the words of a Greek rhetorician, a single monument or dedication to the gods.” It has hitherto been difficult to under¬ stand the nature of the outworks and approaches which defended the Propy- lsea: for the five gates of that building would be of little avail against an enemy provided with machines of war; although they would serve admirably as a barrier either to admit or exclude the throng on the days of religious festivals. It is quite clear that we must look lower down for the external military defences of the citadel; and the recent excavation to which we have before alluded, conducted by M. Beule, with the help of funds furnished by the French Academy, will, it is hoped, do much to clear up the difficulties which have beset all previous theories on this subject. In front, i.e., westwards of the great flight of steps, there seems to have been a kind of fortified Barbican or court strongly protected by flanking walls and towers, in some degree resembling the great gate at Megalopolis, only' that there the court is round, here it I was square. The outer wall seems to have perished, but a portion of the inner remains. It is of moderate thick¬ ness, a little more than 20 feet high, and built of Pentelic marble. The lower courses are very much narrower than those above them. The wall is pierced by a doorway, about 12 feet high and 6 wide. Above the lintel of the doorway is a Doric entablature, composed of architrave, triglyphs, and cornice, together between 4 and 5 feet high. Above the cornice has been added another architrave, with the usual band and guttse tablets. This circumstance, together with the irre¬ gularity in the courses above men¬ tioned. and the general inferiority of execution in the masonry, lead to the supposition that this wall, as we see it, is not coeval with the Propylaea, but was perhaps part of some restoration of the military works, after the Pelo¬ ponnesian war, by Lycurgus, the son of Lycophron, or even perhaps at some later period, as after the capture of Athens by Sylla. Nevertheless it most likely points out what was the original outwork as designed by Pericles. This gateway passed, the view r opened at once on the magnifi¬ cent staircase, leading up to the Pro- pylaca. There are some traces also which indicate that there was a carriage entrance to the S., immediately west¬ ward of the tower, on which the temple of Victory without Wings is placed, and which has been the sole entrance in modern times until the excavations just mentioned opened anew the western entrance. A gate so placed would have been well flanked by' the tower. There was also the foot entrance and stair to the N., which has been already described, and which opened upon the principal staircase just behind the great pedestal. The outer walls of the Propylaea being thrown so far in front of it, and therefore on a much lower level, were enabled to be carried to a sufficient height for defence, without obscuring the building; so that the whole front and a considerable portion of the stair¬ case could be seen from places at a moderate distance, especially from the adjacent eminences. From the Pnyx the Athenian orators more than once pointed to it, and alluded to its im¬ posing magnificence. As a visitor drew near to the Acropolis from the W., the exterior defences would hide all near views of the Propylaea, but he would have around him the many in¬ teresting, though subordinate, objects which filled tfie eastern extremity of the Agora. At this point the temple 150 ROUTE 2. —-ANCIENT ATHENS-THE ACROPOLIS. Sect. II. of iEsculapius, and the statues of Har- modius and Aristogeiton, very near to the entrance to the Acropolis, would especially claim his attention. Or if he approached by the carriage way from the S., which we have supposed, before he reached the Propylsea, he would leave on his right hand what has generally been considered to be the temple of Tellus and Ceres; of which the two niches under the tower, surmounted by the small Ionic temple, have been supposed to have formed the adytum [but this part, it must be confessed, is not yet cleared of its difficulties]. Again, if the traveller approached from the N., he would have gained the narrow and steep foot¬ way near the cave sacred to Apollo and Pan, as we have seen, and passing im¬ mediately under the northern wing of the Propylsea, would finally have emerged upon the bottom of the great staircase, by passing through a nar¬ row opening in the wall of the out¬ works, behind the great pedestal. In any case, he would have come sud¬ denly upon the Propylsea, and have been overwhelmed with astonishment at the magnificence of the scene before him. Other buildings may have ex¬ ceeded this in size, but none in beauty and in the “ artificial infinite ” which is obtained by harmony of propor¬ tion, which, in this instance, is espe-' cially remarkable in the relation of the architecture of the wings to that of the central portico. He would have stood at the bottom of the magnificent flight of marble steps 70 feet across, with the main portico, or Propylsea, in front; the Pinacotheca, or painted chamber on the 1., and the exquisite architecture and sculpture of the small Ionic temple of the Wingless Victory standing a little in advance of the rt. wing, which, being less complete than the Pinacotheca, but for the addition of this temple would not quite have balanced it in effect. All was richly adorned with painting on the walls and ceilings, and with groups of sculp¬ ture between the columns (for there was no sculpture on the architecture itself, with the exception of the temple of Victory). This admirable compo- | sition would have produced an effect which it must vainly tax the utmost stretch of the imagination to reproduce from the existing ruins. Still the pre¬ sent scene is very charming ; but it is hard, even with the help of the N. wing, which is fortunately tolerably perfect, to reconstruct mentally the columns on their shattered frusta, and to crown them with the entabla¬ ture and pediment which they bore so late as two hundred years ago. If any description could aid the imagination in reproducing this scene, it is that of Wordsworth (Athens and Attica, p. HI):— “ There is something of peculiar interest attached to that single door of St. Peter’s Church at Rome which is opened by the hand of the Pope to admit into the church the crowds of the periodic jubilee, and at all other times remains shut. No one can look on that entrance without reflecting what a deep and strong tide of feeling has flowed through it. Here we now stand before the Propylsea of the Athenian Acropolis. Through that door in the centre of this building moved the periodic processions of the Panathenaic jubilee. The marks of their chariot wheels are still visible on the stone floor of its entrance. In the narrow space between those two ruts ' in the pavement, the feet of the noblest Athenians since the age of Pericles have trod. “ Here, above all places at Athens, the mind of the traveller enjoys an exquisite pleasure. It seems as if this portal had been spared, in order that our imagination might send through it, as through a triumphal arch, all the glories of Athenian antiquity in visible parade. In our visions of that spec¬ tacle we would unroll the long Pana- thenaic frieze of Phidias, representing that spectacle, from its place in the marble walls of the cell a of the Par¬ thenon, in order that, indued with ideal life, it might move through this splen¬ did avenue, as its originals did of old. “ Even national enemies paid ho¬ mage to the magnificence of the fabric ; for when, in the Theban assembly, j Epaminondas intended to convey to .-ANCIENT ATHENS-THE ACROPOLIS. 151 Northern Greece, route 2 his audience that they must straggle to transfer the glory of Athens to Thebes, he thus expressed that senti¬ ment by a vivid image: ‘ Oh, men of Thebes, you must uproot the Pro¬ pylsea of the Athenian Acropolis, and plant them in front of the Cadmeian citadel.’ It was this particular point in the localities of Athens which was most admired by the Athenians them¬ selves : nor is this surprising; let us conceive such a restitution of this fabric as its surviving fragments will suggest: let us imagine it restored to its pristine beauty ; let it rise once more in the full dignity of its youthful stature; let all its architectural de¬ corations be fresh and perfect; let their mouldings be again brilliant with their glowing tints of red and blue; let the coffers of its soffits be again spangled with stars, and the marble antoe be fringed over as they once were with their delicate embroidery; let it be in such a lovely day as the present day of November—and then let the bronze valves of these five gates of tire Propylsea be suddenly flung open, and all the splendours of the interior of the Acropolis burst at once upon the view.” We now propose to follow through the Acropolis a far less imaginative traveller, but one who saw and de¬ scribed Athens in its pristine splen¬ dour—the accurate, but often vexatious, Pausanias, adding to his account such comments as the existing remains suggest; and afterwards returning to describe more fully in detail the prin¬ cipal buildings: viz., the Temple of Victory, the Propylsea, the Parthenon, and the Erechtheum. The five gates in the transverse wall of the Propylsea formed the only public entrance into the Acropolis (there was, however, as we have seen, a postern on the N. side, through the Aglaurmm, and perhaps another at the extreme E.). It seems that the great pedestal on the 1. was built for equestrian sta¬ tues of Gryllus and Diodorus, sons of Xenophon; aud that the inscription it bears, now partly obliterated, was afterwards substituted for the original one, so as to attribute these statues to Agrippa and Augustus, a mode of flattery not uncommon in Greece, under the Romans. Cicero, whilst anxious to have a statue erected to his honour at Athens, deprecates this practice : Equidem valde ipsas Athenas amo ; volo esse aliquod monumentum; odi falsas inscriptions statuarum alienarum. (Compare Wordsworth’s ‘Athens and Attica,’ p. 141.) The structure of this pedestal, of the style of masonry called by Vitru¬ vius pseudisodomum—or alternately equal coursed — refers its period to about the beginning of the third cen¬ tury before Christ. It is also evident, from its too great size and want of delicacy in the mouldings, that it did not form part of the original design of the Propyhca. It is, moreover, of Hy- mettian grey marble, instead of Pen- telic. On the rt. hand of the entrance stands the Temple of Victory without Wings. From thence there is a pros¬ pect of the sea ; and it is there that j'Egeus is said to have thrown himself down and perished, when he saw the ship which carried his son Theseus re¬ turning with black sails, instead of white, which he promised to hoist if he returned safe from Crete, but which he forgot to do in consequence of his amour with Ariadne. It is remarkable that neither the pedestal of Agrippa nor the Temple of Victory are parallel with the Propylsea. The 1. hand or N. wing of the Propylsea, usually called the Pinacotheca, contained pic¬ tures by the celebrated painter Polyg- notus, painted, no doubt, on the walls. The subjects were chiefly from the Trojan war. It appears that the inclined plane, which formed the carriage-way, as¬ cended in a direct line from the Agora, and was formed of broad slabs of marble occupying the middle of the great staircase, which were roughened with cross-grooves to improve the foot - hold, as the ascent is very steep. The floor of the eastern portico of the Propylsea is raised by five tall steps, 4 feet 6 inches above that of the western. The carriage-way was carried through the central and* prin¬ cipal gateway, and preserved a nearly 152 BOUTE 2. -ANCIENT ATHENS-THE ACROPOLIS. Sect. II. uniform slope through the building. Considerable portions of it remain, and are marked with the wheel-ruts of an¬ cient traffic. As soon as the colonnade of the Eastern portico is passed, we are in the Acropolis, with the Par¬ thenon full in view. We should here remark, that although the front of the Propylsea is parallel to that of the Parthenon, the central axis of the former falls so much to the N. of that of the latter, that, on entering, the spectator sees the Parthenon at an angle well selected for picturesque effect, and enhancing the perspective resulting from its higher level. In the placing their temples the Greeks teach us a lesson which it would be well for us to follow more than we do. They seldom placed the approaches in the line of the principal axis of the temple. And we should further notice the remarkable absence of parallelism ob¬ servable among the several buildings. Except the Propylsea and Parthenon, which have a definite relation to each other, no two are parallel. This asym- metria is productive of great advantage. It not only gives an individuality to each independent building, but it also obviates the dry uniformity of too many parallel lines, and produces ex¬ quisite varieties of light and shade. One of the most happy instances of this latter effect is in the Temple of Victory without Wings. The facade of this temple and the pedestal of Agrippa remain in shade for a considerable time after the front of the Propylaea has been lighted up, and gradually re¬ ceive every variety of light until the sun is sufficiently on the decline to shine nearly equally on all the western faces of the entire group. The inclined plane was continued through the Propylsea, and was pro¬ longed beyond it in the direction of the interval between the two temples of Minerva, as far as the highest na¬ tural level of the hill. On either side of this main route, the surface of the Acropolis was divided into platforms communicating with one another by steps. Upon these platforms stood the temples, sanctuaries, or monuments which occupied all the summit. Im¬ mediately after passing the Propylaea, Pausanias describes the following ob¬ jects : a Mercury Propylaeus, and the three Graces, by Socrates, son of So- phroniscus ; a brazen lioness, a Venus, a brazen statue of Diitrephes, a Hygieia, daughter of iEsculapius, and a Minerva Hygieia. The pedestal of the latter remains in situ, under the S.E. column of the eastern portico of the Propylaea ; so that we may assign one of the le¬ velled spaces, a little to the east¬ wards, as the site of the Mercury and Graces just mentioned, by the hand of the great philosopher. Turning due S., there are some steps leading up to a platform on the rock, where probably Pausanias saw the boy in brass by Lycius, son of Myron ; Perseus slay¬ ing Medusa, by Myron ; the Sanc¬ tuary of Diana Brauronia, containing a statue by Praxiteles ; a brazen figure of the Trojan horse; five portrait statues; Minerva punishing the un¬ lucky, but impudent, Marsyas ; The¬ seus and the Minotaur; four more mythological groups, and a temple containing the deity venerated by il¬ lustrious men ; a statue by Cleoetas ; and one of the Earth, imploring showers from Jupiter, of which he greatly praises the execution. These last were probably immediately to the W. of the Parthenon, where the ter¬ races may be very clearly made out, and where in many places may be seen the grooves and sinkings by which sculp¬ tures were fixed. In this part of the Acropolis, M. Pittakys, the Conservator of the Anti¬ quities, has built several straight parallel walls, composed of the smaller architectural fragments which have been found on the Acropolis. It is unfortunate that this has been done with so little reference to the places where the fragments were found, and that they have been grouped with such entire absence of artistic feeling. But they have the great advantage of preserving them from a propensity in which travellers have been known to indulge — that of carrying off archi¬ tectural fragments from remarkable places: fragments which might be of the greatest value to the architect, if Xcn-thern Greece . route 2. —ancient Athens—the acropolis. 153 left on the spot, and it is impossible to say from how small a chip of moulded or carved work an important sug¬ gestion may not sometimes have arisen. But there is reason to hope that the practice here complained of is on the decline, and that few travellers now think “ a brick taken as a speci¬ men of a house ” to be the only or best kind of reminiscence. Between the Parthenon and Erech- theum we may look for the sites of the statues of Timotheus, son of Conon, and Conon himself; Procne and Itys; the contest of Minerva and Neptune, the former with the olive, the latter raising the waves. The last mentioned group was perhaps placed on a smoothly-levelled area, which is to be seen in front of the S. or Cary¬ atid portico of the Erechtheum. Also a Jupiter, by Leochares, and another Jupiter, surnamed Polieus. It is re¬ markable that the boundaries of these terraces for the most part point to¬ wards the great statue of Minerva Pro- machus, of which the base has been discovered northwards of the road leading upwards from the Propyltea. The modern traveller will find but little between the Parthenon and Erechtheum; the ground near the former temple is encumbered with its massive ruins produced by the devas¬ tating explosion of 1687. He will have here the best opportunity of studying the exquisite finish of the capitals and other decorative portions, and he may find a few of the metopes in a very shattered state. He must avoid falling into a large well or cistern, -which pro¬ bably received the water from the roof of the Parthenon. Pausanias seems to have passed round the north-eastern corner of the Parthenon, and entered by the proper and only entrance to the Naos or inner temple at the E. Having en¬ tered, he saw the celebrated statue of Minerva by Phidias, covered with ivory and glittering with gold orna¬ ments, though the latter were then of a less solid character than those ap¬ pended by Pericles, weighing as much as 11,500/. The statue was 26 cubits, or 40 feet high, holding a Victory on one hand, and stood on a richly sculptured base, and was protected from injury by a railing of bronze. He saw no other statues within the Naos except¬ ing one of Hadrian, which Athenian flattery had placed there. There were, however, painted portraits of Themis- tocles, and some others. In the Pro- uaos, we learn from Pliny, the painter Protogenes had represented the cele¬ brated triremes Paralus and Ham- monias, together with several other vessels on a smaller scale. Eastwards of the Parthenon, he saw a brazen statue of Apollo Parnopius (chaser of locusts); a statue of Xan- thippus, placed there doubtless by the filial piety of Pericles, in front of his renowned Parthenon; the poet Ana¬ creon, and some other statues. Pau¬ sanias does not mention it, but some remains, with an inscription, show that there was a small circular temple dedicated to Augustus and Borne, oc¬ cupying the extremity, perhaps, of the eastern platform in front of the Par¬ thenon, and, it is supposed, about 90 feet distant from it. A very inter¬ esting excavation has been made near this point. In it are to be seen a number of drums of columns, in a more or less perfect state; some much shattered, others apparently rough from the quarry ; others partly worked, and discarded in consequence of some defect in the material. The ground about them, when first discovered, was strewed with marble chips, and some sculptors’ tools and jars containing red colour were found with them. It seems to have been one of the places where the workmen who were em¬ ployed in building the Parthenon hewed out the columns; and as it was below the level of the finished terrace, these remains, after the completion of the Parthenon, were covered with made ground.* The layers of this made ground are very evident close to the Parthenon on the S. side. They are composed of chips of stone, the lowest being of the red marble of the rock of the Acropolis ; the second * Vide the very interesting letter from Mr. Bracebridge, printed in the Appendix to Words- worth’s “ Athens and Attica.” H 3 154 ROUTE 2. -ANCIENT ATHENS-THE ACROPOLIS. Sect. II. the white marble of Pentelicus, and the upper layer of the magnesian lime¬ stone of the hills near the Piraeus. Proceeding to the S. wall of the Acropolis, called the Cimonium, be¬ cause it was rebuilt by Cimon, the son of Miltiades, (and a magnificent work it was, as we have already seen, formed of squared blocks of Piraic stone, up¬ wards of 60 feet in height in some places,) the summit of this wall was adorned with sculptures, extending, as we may fairly presume, from the parts over against the W. end of the Par¬ thenon to those which overhung the Dionysiac Theatre. Near the latter point there is a portion of marble foundation which probably belonged to some of these sculptures ; they re¬ presented the Gigantomachia, or the War of the Giants, the wars between the Athenians and the Amazons, the battle of Marathon, and the destruc¬ tion of the Gauls by Attalus, King of Pergamus, by whom these groups were dedicated. It is recorded that, in the same year that the battle of Actium was fought, a violent wind (an ele¬ ment of which the destructive energy was so lately witnessed at Athens, on the 26th of October, 1852, in the injury done to the Erechtheum, and the loss of one of the columns of the Temple of Jupiter Olympius) threw down several statues at Athens, and, among them, precipitated one of the group of the Gigantomachia into the Dionysiac Theatre ; thus determining the position of that group. These sculptures doubtless played their part in the view of the S. side of the Acro¬ polis, the magnificent elfect of which is mentioned by several ancientwriters, and to which we shall return when describing the Dionysiac Theatre. There is little to engage our atten¬ tion on the S. side of the Parthenon, where the whole surface is encum¬ bered with a confused mass of the ruins of the temple ; or in the extreme E. In that quarter very little has been done in the way of excavation, and only a few limestone walls of no obvious interest have been discovered. The account of Pausanias does not lead us to expect any thing important in that quarter. It was perhaps occu¬ pied by the dwellings of those who officiated in the mysteries or guarded the sanctuaries of the Acropolis. The traveller will not, however, fail to go there for the view of the slopes of Hy- mettus and the Temple of Jupiter Olympius, which he will obtain from thence ; and in his return towards the Parthenon he will be rewarded by one of the most enchanting views of that temple. Although the western front retains its pediment, and is, generally speaking, more perfect than the east¬ ern, the columns were so cruelly shat¬ tered in the late war, that they give no idea whatever of the beauty of this exquisite feature of the Greek Doric. In the eastern portico the columns are sufficiently perfect to exhibit their full perfection, and the imperceptibly curved lines of the shadows of their flutes sweep uninterruptedly from the ground; and the ferruginous colour given by time to the Pentelic marble, resplendent in the morning sunlight, recalls, in some degree, the brilliancy" of the perfect temple. The visitor’s attention should be especially directed to the second column from the S. in this front. It is not too much to affirm that the skill both of the architect and the workman, as exhibited in the subtle proportions and accurate execu¬ tion of these columns, has never been rivalled. From the Cimonium, Pausanias pro¬ ceeds to the Erechtheum. In front, towards the E„ was an altar of Jupiter Hypatus; one to Neptune near the entrance ; others to Butes and Vulcan. The walls of the porticoes were covered with pictures. In the interior he saw a well of salt water, and a figure of Neptune’s trident on the rock (on the supposed traces of which, under the northern portico, we shall speak here¬ after), and the aboriginal olive-tree, miraculously saved when the temple was burnt by the Persians, which oc¬ cupied the centre, or according to some, the Caryatid portico on the £?. side of this two-fold temple. Every¬ thing here gave evidence of the famous contest of Minerva and Neptune for the soil of Attica. Here also was the Northern Greece, route 2. -ANCIENT ATHENS NIKE AFTER OS. 1 55 most ancient and sacred statue of the goddess, of olive wood, to which the new Peplus was carried every fifth year of the celebration of the Pana- thenaic festival. A golden lamp al¬ ways burning, with a brazen palm- tree above it, to convey the smoke to the roof. Various ancient relics and spoils of the Medes, taken at Marathon and Salamis. In the precinct, or r5 t «.sv3j, to the W., of which the bound¬ ary-wall running E. and W., composed of rough blocks of limestone, is pre¬ served, Pausanias saw the dwelling and playground used by the two young girls who were trained for the annual celebration of the mystery of Erich- thonius. In this precinct were also colossal statues of the Thracian Eu- molpus, son of Neptune, and of Erech- theus, the protege of Minerva, and several other mythological personages, the mortal champions of that combat between the two races to which we have before alluded, whilst their com¬ mon worship in this temple pointed out their ultimate reconciliation. About 150 feet from the W. of the Erechtheum, and on the very edge of the rock, is the staircase, partly built and partly cut out of the rock, which led downwards to the Grotto of Ag- raulos, already described. It was possible in 1845, by climbing up the rocks as far as the grotto, to ascend and descend by this passage and stair. It has since been closed up at the bottom, but is accessible from above. Very near this point, southwards, stood the eolossal statue of Minerva Promachus in bronze, made by Phidias of the spoils of Marathon. Its height was such that the glittering crest of the helmet and the point of the spear might be seen from a great distance at sea, as ships approached Athens after coming round Cape Sunium. The statue must have appeared just to the 1. hand of the Parthenon, and was pro¬ bably as high as the summit of that temple ; for we cannot allow less than 50 feet for the height of the statue, and 20 for that of the pedestal. The position of the base has been laid open by an excavation which shows that it fronted the main central entrance of the Propylaa, and appeared as the Promachus, or tutelary goddess, of the city. And awful the effect must have been upon a stranger impressed w ith some feeling of reverence for the heathen deities. It is even said to have ‘ appalled stem Alaric with terror cat his way.' But those who w r ere fa¬ miliar with it were not all impressed with the same feelings ; and the arch- scoffer Aristophanes did not scruple to joke about the great size of the ivory finger of the Minerva of the Parthenon, or to observe how fine a soup-tureen could be made of the shield of the Promachus. Such, how¬ ever, were not the feelings of our fel¬ low-traveller Pausanias, who, before he leaves the Acropolis, will describe to us the brazen quadriga, made of spoils won from the Boeotians and men of Chalcis (in the battle mentioned by Herod., 5, 79). A smaller statue of Minerva in bronze, by Phidias, the Minerva Lemnia,— accounted the finest of all the works of that master,— and a statue worthy, of the grateful ad¬ miration of all beholders—Of Pericles, the son of Xanthippus—standing on the 1. hand of the entrance to the Acropolis, which he had done so much to adorn. 1 . Temple of Nike Apteros, or Victory without II ings. —After the general sur¬ vey of the Acropolis, we return to ex¬ amine more in detail the principal remains. The first of these is the Temple of Nike Apteros, or Wingless \ ictory (a goddess sometimes iden¬ tified with Minerva, and called Athena Nike), and thus represented in the ear¬ liest times, although in the time of Pe¬ ricles she w-as figured as a young female with golden wings. This temple is not mentioned among the works of Pericles, and has been supposed to have been built by Cimon, and coeval with the completion of the Cimonium. The sculptures, judging from the cos¬ tume and arms, appear to represent the victories gained by the Athenians over the Persians, in which Cimon and his father Miltiades bore so great a share. We have already called attention to the absence of parallelism between this temple and the Propylaa—a fact 156 ROUTE 2. —ANCIENT ATHENS—TIIE PROPYE7EA. Sect. II. which favours the supposition of its entire independence of that structure. This temple is of the class called Amphiprostyle Tetrastyle, consisting of a cella with four fluted Ionic co¬ lumns at either front, hut with none on the sides. It is raised upon a sty¬ lobate of 3 steps, and is 27 feet in length from E. to W., and 18 feet in breadth. The columns, including the base and the capital, are 13j feet high, and the total height of the temple to the apex of the pediment, including the stylo- hate, is 23 feet. The frieze, which runs round the whole of the exterior of the building, is 1 foot 6 inches high, and is adorned with sculptures in high relief. It originally consisted of 14 pieces of stone, of which 12, or the fragments of 12, now remain. Several of these are so mutilated, that it is difficult to make out the subject; but some of them evidently represent a battle between Greeks and Persians, or other Oriental barbarians. It is supposed that the two long sides were occupied with combats of horsemen, and that the western end represented a battle of foot soldiers. The recent history of this temple is curious : it was mentioned by Pau- sanias, and seen by Wheler and Spon, as late as 1681, since which period no traveller had been able to discover a trace of it. At length, in 1835, some works were undertaken by the present Greek government for the purpose of clearing the approaches of the Pro- pylsea to their proper level, by which the traces of the great flight of steps were brought to light, and the columns disengaged from the Incumbrance of the mediaeval and Turkish fortifica¬ tions which had been built up between them. In these operations, a Turkish battery, which stood in front of the Propylsea, was removed, and in doing so, fragments of columns of a sculp¬ tured frieze, exactly answering to four pieces in the British Museum brought over by Lord Elgin, and other orna¬ mental architecture, were discovered in great quantity, and by and by the floor of an ancient temple, which, of course, was immediately recognised as that mentioned by Pausanias. The government had the spirit and good taste to cause the fragments to be col¬ lected and re-erected, without devia¬ tion from the original foundations, under the able superintendence of Ross and Schaubert. The work, how¬ ever, was left incomplete, and was finished with the help of funds sub¬ scribed in England in aid of the Archaeological Society of Athens. This restoration has been a most suc¬ cessful one. It does not produce, as in the case of the partial restitution of some of the columns of the Parthenon, a patchy elfect. Here the whole is of a piece, and at a distance looks much like a new building, with its white marble columns and walls glittering in the sun. In addition to the several sculptured fragments of the frieze of the temple, several slabs were found 3 feet 4 inches high, sculptured on one side in reliefs of surpassing beauty, representing winged Victories in va¬ rious attitudes. They formed a con¬ tinuous parapet between the temple and the great flight of steps. There seems to have been a railing of metal above them, and probably also a rail¬ ing along the edge of the western wall. A careful description of this temple is given by Hansen, Schaubert, and Ross (‘ Acropolis von Athen.’ Fol. Berlin, 1839). The Pedestal of Agrippa, over against the Temple of Nike Apteros, has been already described. 2. The Propylcea. — The erection of this magnificent building was entrusted by Pericles to the architect Mnesicles. It was commenced in the archonship of Euthymenes, b.c. 437, and completed in the short space of five years. The cost has been stated by late writers to have been 2000 talents, equal in weight to 4C0,000Z.; hut Leake has shown, by a careful examination of the data given by Thucydides (p. 463 sq.), that the whole of the ornamental works of Pericles, viz. the Odeum, the Parthenon, the Mystic Temple of Eleusis, and the Propylaca, were built for the sum of 2950 talents, of which he assigns 1000 talents to the cost of the Parthenon. Perhaps, then, we shall not be far wrong in assuming Northern Greece, route 2 . —ancient Athens—t ttf pkopvl.ea. 157 that the Propyltea with its approaches cost 700 talents, which would repre¬ sent in weight 161,000/., and in value about 480,000/. of our money of the present day. The building, constructed of Pen- telic marble, covered the whole of the western end of the Acropolis, which is there 170 feet across, or rather was designed to have covered this space ; for it seems that the extremity of the S. wing was left incomplete. The plan of the Propylsea may be thus de¬ scribed :—A flight of about sixty steps, 71 feet in width, led up to a portico 69 feet broad, having 6 fluted Doric columns, 5 feet in diameter and 29 feet high. Two wings on the N. and S. projected 24 feet in front of the portico, and flanked the upper part of the staircase. The wings are 78 feet apart, measured from the opposite columns. The fronts of these wings faced one another, and consisted each of a stoa or porch of 3 Doric columns in antis, that is, with columns ranged between the square pilasters, called antae. The northern wing remains in a very perfect state. A porch, facing the S., 13 feet deep, led to a hall 35 feet by 30, usually called the Pinaco- theca. The paintings with which the walls were once adorned have already been described. In this hall an in¬ teresting collection of architectural fragments and inscriptions has been placed. The southern wing is in a ruinous state, and is almost concealed by the lofty mediaeval tower which forms so conspicuous an object in all views of the Acropolis. Two of the columns are imbedded in its walls; the trace of the position of the third is visible. It seems to have been simply a porch or guard-chamber 27 feet by 16, and not to have communi¬ cated with anything beyond, although we must suppose that some additional chamber was intended in the design of Mnesicles to occupy the vacant space between the wing, as found at present, and the Cimonium. Indeed, just sufficient room is left there to have completed this wing symmetri¬ cally with the northern; so that, al¬ though it is almost certain that the wing was carried no farther than we find it at present, we may feel sure that the anomaly was foreign to the original design of the Propylaea. The wings had not pediments, as some have supposed,but were covered with “hip” roofs, i.e., roofs sloping down to the eaves on three sides. They were backed to the E. by a high wall.' The outside walls were solid, as befitted a citadel, and were not pierced with any open¬ ings. All the expression was reserved for the main portico and the two stosp, which flanked the great staircase. The height of the columns of the stoa; of the wings is about two-thirds of those of the main building; and the other proportions, with some exceptions, have nearly the same ratio. This sub¬ ordination has an excellent effect in enhancing the dignity of the principal portico. The central hall, or vestibule, behind the hexastyle portico, was 60 feet broad and 44 in depth, and 39 feet high. It was covered with a magnifi¬ cent panelled ceiling of marble, richly- painted and gilt. The panels were supported on marble beams of great size, which especially attracted the notice of Pausanias; and much more may their fallen remains surprise the modern traveller, so little accustomed to constructions of such solidity. These beams were more than 20 feet in length, and were supported by two rows of three Ionic columns each, ranging with the two central Doric columns of the external portico. The intercolumniation between these latter was made wider ttian ordinary by an additional metope and triglyph, in order to give sufficient width to the carriage-way, already described, which passed between them. The entire clear width so obtained was 12 feet 9 inches. This hall was bounded east¬ wards by a wall built upon a solid plinth of the black marble of Eleusis, which served as a threshold for the four smaller of the five doorways with which the wall itself was pierced. The central opening, 13 feet wide and 24 high, admitted the carriage-way, of which some portions remain, with wheel-ruts distinctly visible. The 158 ROUTE 2. -ANCIENT ATHENS-THE PARTHENON. Sect. II. doors next to the centre were 9j feet, and the two outermost 5 feet wide, and the heights varied in like propor¬ tion. The pavement of the eastern portico of the Propylsea, following the natural rise of the ground, was raised feet above that of the western ves¬ tibule. The portico was 19 feet in depth, and had the same width as the other. The columns were 28 feet high. The height to the ceiling within the portico 37 feet. There can be no doubt that the whole of the walls and ceilings of this exquisite building were adorned with paintings, historical and decorative. Much use has been made in its con¬ struction of the Eleusinian black marble. Not only is the threshold of the doorways above described formed of it, but it forms a plinth 4^ feet high, at the bottom of the walls of the great vestibule; and the same material is used for one of the steps under the stoce of the wings, and thus distin¬ guishes them from the steps of the ascending flight. The Propylaea was the building of all others most admired by the Greeks themselves. No description can in any way do justice to the refined bold¬ ness with which it was composed. A somewhat hypercritical eye might perhaps ask for something more arti¬ ficial in the junction of the two diffe¬ rent levels than that which we find on the N. side (within the Acropolis), where the lines of the E. and W. porticoes meet together without any adaptation. One might answer that their junction is only seen from a very confined spot. But the triumphant success of the general design should disarm all such minor criticism, and the building was not more magnifi¬ cent from the costliness of its material and workmanship than from the artistic power impressed upon it by the mincl of its great architect. The pediment of the eastern portico was destroyed by an explosion in 1650; that of the western, some time between the Venetian siege in 1680, which left it standing, and 1750, when Stuart found it gone. 3. The Parthenon, or Temple of the Virgin (’A t*va nd^teves'), also called the Hecatompedon, from the use of 100 ft. in one of its leading dimensions, pro¬ bably the breadth. A. Peristylium. B. Pronaos or Prodomus. C. Opisthodomus or Posticum. D. Hecatompedon. a. Statue of the Goddess. E. Parthenon, afterwards Opisthodomus. It should be borne in mind that the Pronaos, B, is to the E., and the Posticum, C, is at the W., so that on entering the Acropolis, the traveller first sees the Posticum. The Parthenon is, as Wordsworth well calls it, “ the finest edifice on the finest site in the world, hallowed by the noblest recollections that can stimulate the human heart.” .A orthern Greece, route 2.—ancient Athens—the Parthenon. 159 In this temple an architecture which had gone on through centuries of refinement, until it culminated there, was combined with the work of the greatest sculptor Greece and the world ever produced; and unless we take into consideration this perfect unison of these two arts, we cannot do justice to Greek architecture, much less the Parthenon. Painting also was there, and although we cannot thoroughly realize the part it played in the magnificent diapason of the 3 sister arts, we dare not question its pro¬ priety. Our present object, however, is chiefly with the architecture; for the remains of the painting are almost evanescent, and the sculpture, although some mention of it must be made, is no longer there, with the exception at least of a very small portion. But may we not hope that so much of it as, happily by its removal to England, was saved from the Turkish and Greek cannon in the War of Indepen¬ dence, may at some future day, when it can be done with perfect security, be yet restored to its proper shrine ? The question cannot but occur to the traveller, as he contemplates the vacant places from whence the sculptures were taken, and he will feel that nothing but the preservation of those priceless marbles could have justified their removal. The Parthenon was built under the administration of Pericles. Ictinus and Callicrates were the architects. The former, however, seems to have held the chief position, and wrote a book descriptive of it. The general -superintendence was intrusted to Phidias. It was finished b.c. 438. The exact date of its commencement is not known, but as the Propylaea, we know, took five years, we must allow a somewhat longer period to the Par¬ thenon. The cost of the building is supposed by Leake to have been 100O talents, about equal in value to 700,000/. at the present day. It was built entirely of Pentelic marble, except the tiles of the roof, which’were Parian. The eastern end of'the*tem¬ ple occupies nearly the highest point of the Acropolis. ” At the N.E. angle of the temple, the steps which form the proper basis or stylobate (i. e. the platform on which the erri/Xoi or co¬ lumns stand) rise immediately from a levelled bed cut on the rock. The stylobate consists of three solid steps of Pentelic marble, about 1 foot 9 inches high, set upon a sort of plinth, a foot high, of the same material. On the N. and W. sides, below the plinth, is a foundation wall of Piriiic lime¬ stone, and on the S. side a sub-base¬ ment of the same material, supporting a terrace about 5^ feet wide. On the N. and W., the foundation wall was concealed by a pavement, probably of marble, immediately under the plinth of which we have spoken ; but which pavement has now disappeared. On the S. side, the limestone sub-base¬ ment was exposed. There is little doubt that this, as well as the greater part of the foundation wall on the W., formed the finished substructure to the older temple of Minerva on the same site, of which mention has been made in describing the architectural frag¬ ments built up in the N. wall of the Acropolis. The stones are rectangular, and are carefully worked in rusticated courses, and their junction with the newer foundations required by the en¬ larged Parthenon is visible on the W. end, under the column next to the N.W. angle column, and on the S. side under the S.E. angle column itself. The Doric order of architecture, which is used in the temple, preserves in the forms of many of its features, not an imitation, but the tradition of the original wooden buildings of the in¬ fancy of the nation, happily blended, as it would seem, with some of the sterner character of the stone archi¬ tecture of Egypt—the whole moulded into one by considerations of the due balance of light and shade, support and load, and plain surface and orna¬ ment, until every line was refined to the highest degree. “ Donee longa dies, per fee to temporis orbe, Coneretam exemit labem, purumque reliquit Ethereum sensum, atque aurai simplicis ignem.” Virg.JEn.y i. ?45. The temple is peripteral and octastyle, that is, it consists of a portico at each 160 ROUTE 2. -ANCIENT ATHENS-THE PARTHENON. Sect. II. end of eight columns, and has a colon¬ nade on each flank of seventeen, reckon¬ ing the angle columns twice, forty-six in all. Of these thirty-two are stand¬ ing ; not reckoning some abortive attempts at restoration on the N. side. The entire length of the temple on the upper step is 228 feet, the breadth 101. The columns are fluted, 6j feet in diameter and 34J feet high. The architrave above these columns was adorned with gilded shields of bronze, which were placed beneath the metopes. Between the shields there were in¬ scribed the names of the dedicators. The impressions left upon the parts covered by these shields are still visible upon the architraves ; the shields themselves were carried off' by Lachares, together with the gold of the statue of the god¬ dess, when Demetrius was besieging Athens. There were ^Isoupon the archi¬ traves bronze nails or pegs, upon which festoons were hung on days of festival. The 92 metopes of the frieze were filled with sculptures in high relief: of which only one remains in a good state of preservation (that on the S. side over the westernmost intercolumnia- tion, the rest are either gone or so much mutilated as to be nearly un¬ intelligible). The pediments or aetoi were filled with sculptures, of a size much greater than life. Those of the eastern portico relating to the birth of Minerva, those at the western to the contest of Minerva and Neptune for the soil of Attica. All are now entirely gone, excepting three horses’ heads in the corners of the eastern, and a single group on the western pediment, sup¬ posed to represent Cecrops and Agrau- los, of which all the finer parts are much obliterated. The height to the apex of the pedi¬ ment, exclusive of the ornament or acroterium, which there must have been at the top, was 59 feet above the upper step, or with the addition of the stylobate 64. The level of the pave¬ ment of the temple was only about 6 feet below the ridge of the roof of the Propylaea, and was raised high above all the platforms in the Acropolis. “Such was the simple structure of this magnificent building, which, by its united excellences of materials, design, and decorations, was the most perfect ever executed. Its dimensions, of 228 feet by 101, with a height of 66 feet to the top of the pediment, were sufficiently great to give an appearance of grandeur and sublimity ; and this impression was not disturbed by any obtrusive subdivision of parts, such as is found to diminish the effect of many larger modern buildings, where the same singleness of design is not apparent. In the Parthenon there was nothing to divert the spec¬ tator’s contemplation from the sim¬ plicity and majesty of mass and out¬ line, which forms the first and most remarkable object of admiration in a Greek temple; for the statues of the pediments, the only decoration which was very conspicuous by its magnitude and position, having been inclosed within frames which formed an essen¬ tial part of the designs of either front, had no more obtrusive effect than an ornamented capital to an unadorned column.”— Leake. The view from the western steps cannot fail to arrest attention. They command an extensive prospect over the Saronic Gulf; from thence we see the S. extremity of the Isle of Hydra, and Troezene on the Argolic promon¬ tory ; with the top of Parnon in La¬ conia peeping over it; iEgina, with its perfect outline—no longer an “ eye¬ sore,” as the Athenians called it, on account of its commercial rivalry— with the strange volcanic peaks of Metbana rising behind it; Epidauras, and Mount Arachne over it, one of the beacon heights along which the news of the fall of Troy was transmitted to the inhabitants of Peloponnesus. Thence the eye traverses Salamis and surveys its memorable straits. And beyond the depression between the island and the mainland discovers the rival and distant citadel of Acrocorin- thus, which, lofty as it is, yet seems to be nestled beneath the snowy ridges of Cyllene in the extreme distance: Gerania, the mountain of the isthmus: Mount Kerata above Megara, and the summit of Cithseron, a little to the left of Phyle—but Mr. Words- Northern Greece, route 2. —ancient Athens—the Parthenon. 161 ■worth has sketched the northern por¬ tion of this view :— “ The site of the Parthenon is the highest point in Athens. It is also the centre of the Acropolis, as the Acropolis was of Athens. Looking northward from it, the city, and be¬ yond it the plain of Athens, formed into a great peninsula by mountains, lay before the view of the ancient Athenians. The eye having been thus sated with the splendour of the ob¬ jects in the city below it, might raise itself gradually, and, passing north¬ ward over corn-fields and vineyards, farms and villages, such as Colonus or Acharnae, might at last repose upon some sequestered object on the distant hills, upon the deep pass of Phyle, or the solitary towers of Deceleia. Then, too, there were appropriate living ob¬ jects to enliven such a scene. There would be rural sights, such as Aris¬ tophanes describes of husbandmen issuing out into the fields, with their iron implements of agriculture shining in the sun, at the conclusion of a long war: perhaps a festal procession might just be losing itself in a distant grove. All this has now disappeared, and there is nothing of the kind in its place. Now, from this point, here and there a solitary Albanian peasant is seen following his mule laden with wood along the road into the town; and the most cheerful sight in the plain before us, is that of the thick wood of olives still growing on the site of the Academy toward the left, which looks now like a silver sea rip¬ pling in the autumnal breeze.” Within the peristyles is an ambula¬ tory about 9 feet wide on the flanks and 11 at the fronts, which passes entirely round the building. The ceil¬ ing of this part was formed of a double row of panels, about 4 feet square, along the flanks. At the ends, where the ambulatory was broader, the ceil- ing was supported by the intervention of marble beams, some of which exist at the western end. Within was the cella, or «Wr. It was divided into two unequal parts by a transverse wall. The eastern part was the Naos, or temple in the peculiar and restricted sense, where was the statue of the goddess. It was approached by a porch, called the Prouaos, which lay between the antse which terminate the lateral walls of the cella, and bad a row of six columns in front, of which the diameter was 5 feet 5 inches. The height of these columns was 33 feet, and they stood on a sty¬ lobate of two steps, the upper of which coincided with the floor of the cella. The Prouaos formed a vestibule, about 12 feet by 60, in front of the gate. The walls were covered with paintings, and it was separated from the peristyle by a railing, or grillage, of bronze or other metal. We may be satisfied that the gate was also of bronze, and that the jambs or margins were of the same material. This gate was removed to make way for the apse of the church into which the Parthenon was con¬ verted, and dedicated to Sta. Sophia. Of the columns, only one is standing at its full height; the rest were no doubt thrown down by the explosion in 1687. The Naos is in length 98 feet, and 63 wide, within the walls. In inscrip¬ tions found at Athens it is sometimes called the Hecatompedon, and with the addition of the thickness of the wall which divided it from the Opis- thodomus it was exactly 100 Greek feet in length. Its disposition can now be traced, the Turkish mosque which formerly stood there having been re¬ moved. Within the Naos, against the eastern wall, and on each side of the door, are antse; and it appears from indications on the pavement, as well as other authorities, that ranging with these two antse stood rows of 10 Doric columns on each side, 3 feet 8 inches in diameter, with 16 flutes (the more usual number is 20) ; and 14 feet from the western wall of the naos these columns were connected by 3 others : thus forming three sides of a quadran¬ gle. The pavement in the space sur¬ rounded by these columns is a little lower than the rest of the naos, and forms a sort of impluvium. These columns, together with the whole of the central building and the adjoining columns of the peristyle, were thrown down by the explosion of a magazine 1-62 ROUTE 2. -ANCIENT ATHENS-THE PARTHENON. Sect. II. of gunpowder, ignited by the Venetian bombardment in 1(j87. Batteries were placed on the top of Lycabettus and other commanding situations, but the shot that did that irreparable and ruthless injury was fired, according to Fanelli, from a battery placed near the monument of Lysicrates. Wheler and Spon had thus described the interior of the building before that event. We should observe that a new entrance door for the use of the church, which had been built in the Naos, had been pierced t hrough the wall of separa¬ tion between it and the Opisthodomus. “ On both sides, and towards the door, is a kind of gallery made with two ranks of pillars, 22 below and 23 above —the odd column was over the arch of entrance which was left for the passage.” This description agrees perfectly with the plan derived from the traces on the pavement. On each side were ten columns, and three on the western return. The central co¬ lumn in the lower rank at the end had been removed, and the “ arch of en¬ trance ” substituted for it. Wheler’s words, moreover, “ a kind of gallery,” show that, like the temple at Psestum, there was merely an architrave sup¬ porting the upper range of columns, and not a real gallery. Near the ex¬ tremity of what we have called the impluvium, and about 14 feet from the western columns, is a space covered with Piraic stone, and not marble, like the rest of the pavement. It has been usually supposed that this was the foundation on which the statue of Mi¬ nerva rested. There is a hole in the centre into which probably a mast was inserted which formed part of the con¬ struction. This colossal statue of the virgin goddess was, with the exception of the statue of Jupiter at Olympia, also by the hand of Phidias, the most cele¬ brated statue of antiquity. It was called the Chrys-elephantine, because ivory was employed for all the parts which were undraped. The dress and other ornaments were of solid gold, of a weight equal to that of about 10,000/. —so contrived by Phidias, that the whole could be removed, if ever re¬ quired by the exigences of the State. It is said that an accusation was brought against Phidias of having em¬ bezzled part of the gold intrusted to him, which he refuted by having it taken off and weighed in the presence of his accusers. The gold was finally plundered, as has been said, by La- chares, who made himself tyrant of Athens about b.c. 300. On the pedes¬ tal was sculptured the birth of Pan¬ dora, and 20 of the gods in their in¬ fancy. The height of the statue was 26 cubits—39J English feet. It was clothed with the aegis and a robe reaching to the feet, with a Medusa’s head in ivory on the breast. At the feet lay a shield, bearing on the con¬ vex side the battle of the Athenians and Amazons, and on the concave the strife of the gods and giants; and on the sandals was carved that of the Centaurs and Lapithae. The goddess bore a helmet surmounted with a sphynx, with griffins in relief on each side. A spear was in her left hand, and a serpent near the butt end of the spear sought refuge under the shield. Pliny, in his description of the statue, says, “ Periti mirantur et serpentem ac sub ipsa cuspide gereum sphingem.” Perhaps Virgil had this statue in mind when describing what ensued after the death of Laocoon:— “At gemini lapsu delubra ad sranma dracones Effugiunt, sawasque petunt Tritonidis arcem. Sub pedibusque de£e, clypeique sub orbc teguntur.” But what was most remarkable in this statue was an image of Victory four cubits high, which stood on the out¬ stretched right hand of the goddess. It is not unlikely that the Minerva Medica in the Nuovo Bracchio of the Vatican Museum bears much general resemblance to the Athena Parthenos. A metal railing, of which some traces remain on the pavement, surrounded the statue. At Olympia. Pausanias mentions a receptacle of oil, formed of black stone surrounded by a raised rim of Parian marble. The oil was used to prevent the ivory being im¬ paired by the moisture of the place, and he tells us that in the Acropolis at Athens, owing to the dryness of this Northern Greece, route 2. —ancient Athens—the Parthenon. 163 situation, water and its exhalation was used instead. It has been suggested that the depression which we find in the central part of the Naos was in¬ tended to retain the water so required, but this could not have been the case, as owing to the convexity of the pave¬ ment of the temple, in which the Naos partakes, the water would have flowed away to the E. We shall make a few remarks by-and-bye respecting the convexity just alluded to. We may now consider the manner in which light was admitted to this statue. The eastern door, vast as it was, 33 feet high, and about 13 wide, was too distant to have afforded a full illumi¬ nation, or that most desirable for the good effect of the statue, an,d lamps would have been wholly inadequate. So it has generally been supposed that there was an hypaethrum, or opening to the sky, and certainly it is most reasonable to suppose that there was some such opening or openings, but very different from what has been often represented—a rude expedient —a large portion of the middle part of the roof left out, breaking the sky line, and thus spoiling the in¬ tegrity of one of the principal lines of the temple. Unfortunately no architectural evidence can be brought, which at all helps the solution of this difficult question. The following are some of the authorities which bear more or less on the subject:— “ Supposing an hypacthrum to have existed in the Parthenon, there is but one situation in which it can be placed. In the Olympian temple, which we may presume to have resembled the Parthenon in its interior arrangement, having been contemporary, similar in its general construction, and enclosing a chryselephantine statue made by the same great artist, the statue was under cover. It is inconceivable, indeed, that such exquisite works, as these of Phidias, should have been left open to the sky, or defended only by a hori¬ zontal awning.”— Leake, p. 563. “ There has been a great contro¬ versy among modern scholars as to whether any part of the roof of the eastern chamber of the Parthenon was hypaethral, or pierced with an opening to the sky. Most English writers, following Stuart, had arrived at a con¬ clusion in the affirmative; but the dis¬ cussion has been recently reopened in Germany, and it seems impossible to arrive at any definite conclusion upon the subject. We know that, as a general rule, the Grecian temples had no windows in the walls; and conse¬ quently the light was admitted either through some opening in the roof, or through the door alone. The latter appears to have been the case in smaller temples, which could obtain sufficient light from the open door; but larger temples must necessarily have been in comparative darkness, if they received light from no other quarter. And although the temple was the abode of the deity, and not a place of meeting, yet it is impossible to believe that the Greeks left in com¬ parative darkness the beautiful paint¬ ings and statues with which they decorated the interior of their temples. We have, moreover, express evidence that light was admitted into temples through the roof. This appears to have been done in two ways, either by windows or openings in the tiles of the roof, or by leaving a large part of the latter open to the sky. The former was the case in the temple of Eleusis. There can be little doubt that the naos or eastern chamber of the Parthenon must have obtained its light in one or other of these ways. If the Parthenon was really hypsethral, we must place the opening to the sky between the statue and the eastern door, since we cannot suppose that such an exquisite work as the chrys¬ elephantine statue of Athena was not protected by a covered roof.”— Smith’s Diet., p. 274. “ The tiles of the Parthenon (and I believe of the Greek temples generally) were formed of Parian marble. As this material does not seem to stand the weather so well as the Pentelic, the question occurs why it should have been used for this purpose at Athens. . . . May we suppose that the remark¬ ably transparent quality of the Parian marble led to its adoption? For we 164 ROUTE 2. -ANCIENT ATHENS-THE PARTHENON. Sect. II. may readily believe that sufficient light would be refracted through these tiles to light the void space-between the external roof and the ceiling, or even to aid in some degree in lighting the naos of a temple which had no hypac- thral apertures, or where these were small.” — Princip. Athen. Archit., p. 46. Mr. Fergusson, in his “ Principles of Beauty in Art” (p. 387), has given a new and very plausible theory respect¬ ing the hypcethral openings, to which, as to the work in general, the reader may be referred with great advantage. The inner walls of the cella were decorated with paintings; those of the Pronaos were partly painted by Proto¬ genes of Caunus ; in the Naos, accord¬ ing to Pausanias, was a portrait of Themistocles, and another of Helio- dorus. The names of the separate divisions of the temple have been chiefly made out from various official records of the treasurers of the Parthenon inscribed upon marble, containing accounts of the various valuables preserved in the temple. (Bockh, Corpus Inscript. 137-142, &c.) From these it is quite clear that the Promos was the eastern porch, and the Hecatompedon the naos or great eastern chamber. Respecting the Parthenon in its restricted sense, and the Opisthodomns, there has been considerable doubt. Leake (p. 560) supposes the Parthenon to have been the western part of the eastern cham¬ ber, containing the statue of the goddess, and separated from the rest by a barrier. And certainly we should naturally expect that the part wh ieh con¬ tained the “ Athena Parthenos should be the Parthenon: ’ ’ but the portion of the temple thus called (see Smith’s Diet., p. 273) was used in the time of the Peloponnesian war as the public trea¬ sury, containing bullion and miscella¬ neous articles, whilst the Heeatom- pedon only contained such treasures as would serve the purpose of ornament: and this seems to connect the name Parthenon with the smaller or western chamber, generally called the Opistho- domus. (See the wood-cut representing the plan of the temple.) The Posticum was the porch at the western end of the cella, similar to the Pronaos in almost all respects. The columns, however, were for some reason rather greater in diameter (these being 5‘632 feet, whilst those of the Pronaos were only 5‘402). There are evident traces both on the columns and antae of the grillage which sepa¬ rated the posticum from the ambula¬ tory. This grating reached to the ceiling, and entirely protected the many valuable objects contained within the porch. The chief treasury, how¬ ever, was the Opisthodomus or western chamber, into which this porch leads. The head of the doorway is formed of marble lintels, nearly 27 ft. long, much calcined by a fire which was produced by the explosion in 1687. On the pave¬ ment are circular channels provided for the doors to traverse in. The height of this doorway was 33 feet, and the width about 16. In the centre of the chamber are four large slabs in the pavement, upon which the columns rested that carried the ceiling and roof. The ceiling was no doubt sup¬ ported, as iu the Propylsea, by huge marble beams resting on these columns. The latter appear to have been about 4 feet iu diameter, and were probably of the Tonic order. There was no opening between this chamber and the Naos. Upon the walls are remains of paintings, clearly of a mediseval cha¬ racter, which have led some travellers to assign a late origin to the more delicate traces of ancient colouring which are found .upon some of the architectural fragments. At the south western corner of this chamber is a staircase, which was made by the Turks to lead to a minaret built over that part. At present it gives access to the top of the walls. The Opistho¬ domus is 63 feet broad, and 44 from E. to W. The exact measurements of the Parthenon are English feet. Front, on the upper step.101-341 Flank.228-141 Length of the cella on the upper step . 193-733 Breadth of the cella on the upper step, measured in the Opisthodomus . . 71-330 Length of the Naos within the walls . 98-095 Breadth of the Naos within the walls . 63 01 Northern Greece, route 2. —ancient Athens—the Parthenon. 165 English feet. Length of the Opisthodomus within the walls. 43-767 Diameter of the columns of the Peri¬ style . 6-251 Their height. 34-250 For further particulars the reader is referred to the ‘ Investigation of the Principles of Athenian Architec¬ ture.’ After the Chryselephantine statue the principal sculptures were those of the as™, or pediments; consisting of statues finished all round, of various sizes, all exceeding life, the largest being about 11 feet high. There w r as sufficient space behind the figures to pass between them and the tympanum wall. In his description Pausanias merely says, “As one enters the tem¬ ple that they call the Parthenon (i.e. on the E.) the sculpture in the aetos all has reference to the birth of Athe'ne; that at the back (the W. front) is the quarrel of Poseidon with Athene about the country.” The authorities from which the details of these compositions may be collected are the Elgin marbles in the British Museum, and a few small fragments since discovered, and drawings made in 1674 by an artist named Jacques Carrey, who accompanied the Marquis of Nointel, sent as ambassador of France to Constantinople. Of the eastern pediment, of which the actual remains are most complete, we know the least; for the whole of the centre, about 35 feet, had been de¬ stroyed before Carrey’s time. Those which remain represent Hyperion, or Day, rising in the S. corner. Next came the figure often (but probably in¬ correctly) called Theseus, otherwise Hercules, but named by Brondsted, whose account of the sculptures of the eastern pediment we shall follow, Cephalus. Then the Seasons ; after these the gap which can only be filled up conjecturally. “ Dans le fronton oriental, Jupiter etait assis sur son trone, au centre de l’univers, entre le Jour et la Nuit, entoure des divinites genethliques du sort, c’est 4 dire des trois Heures (Saisons) et' des trois Parques avec la Fortune Bienveillante (’Aya&i Tuyj/i) et des divinites qui pre¬ sident aux accouchemens — Aphro- dite-Uranie, et Ilithye, Hephaestus et Prome'thee, Ares et Hermes. Le pere tout-puissant des dieux venait d’enfanter de sa tete la fille divine, qui s’elanyait dans les airs, brill ante de ses armes d’or : miracle supreme de la creation, elle planait audessus de son pere assis, s’e'levant vers le som- met du fronton.” After the gap came the draped torso called in the above quotation Fortune ; then the Fates ; and in the extremity of the pediment to the N. the car of Night going down. Three horses’ heads, two belonging to the chariot of the Day, and one to that of Night, re¬ main in their places. We have better means of judging of the western sculptures. Very little indeed remains, but Carrey has pre¬ served to us nearly the whole composi¬ tion. A great deal has been written re¬ specting the identification of particular figures. In the names now attributed, the authorities of Leake and of Mr. W. Walkiss Lloyd (Classical Mus. XVIII.) have been chiefly followed. There can be no question as to the main action. This represents the rival deities in the middle of the pediment, Neptune on the S., and Minerva on the N.; true to the relative positions of sea and land—the former with his weight thrown a little back towards the S., as though commencing to yield a little ground; the latter leaning a little forwards towards the N., and about to advance across his path ; and thus, while the expression of actual collision is avoided, that of au advan¬ tage obtained is clearly rendered. The figure of Neptune is nude, and more than ] 1 feet high ; and that of Minerva is, as usual, draped, and not much less in height. In their action they cross each other, and contrast with astonish¬ ing vigour with the regular lines of the architecture. On the extreme left was the beauti¬ ful recumbent figure of the river-god Cephissus. (This figure used to be called Ilissus : Leake calls it Cranaus ; but Mr. Lloyd, with mo r e probability, gives it the name of Cephissus.) Then Cecrops and Aglauros, which are the 166 ROUTE 2. -ANCIENT ATHENS-THE PARTHENON. Sect. II. two mutilated figures still iu situ. Next a group, consisting of attendants on Minerva, Pandrosos, Herse, and others, and a female figure driving a chariot. Behind the chariot was Erechtheus. The horses’ heads were close to the raised right hand of Mi¬ nerva. On Neptune’s left, i.e. south¬ wards, was Amphitrite seated in a chariot drawn by sea-horses, with a dolphin at her feet: Thetis stood be¬ hind the chariot. Then a group of four goddesses attendant on Neptune, the first having a child on each side of her. Then Venus on the lap of Dione, and Tefhys, and lastly Ilissus and Cal- lirrhoe—the corners being thus occu¬ pied by the local rivers, so that the whole pediment represented Attica. The metopes, or the sculptures in high relief on the exterior frieze of the peristyle between the triglyphs, were 92 in number, 14 on the fronts, and 32 on the sides ; their form is gene¬ rally nearly square, 4 feet 2 inches each way. Part of the pre-eminence of the Parthenon over other Greek Doric temples was due to the fact that all the metopes were ornamented with sculp¬ ture : these metopes were of remark¬ able spirit and variety of treatment, and were executed, as there is reason to believe, by different artists, under the general superintendence of Phidias. All those towards the middle part of the flanks were thrown- down by the explosion. Those of the two fronts remain in their places ; and, together with those which remain on the N. side, are, and have been for a long time, for the most part, in a very mutilated state. Those of the S. side, for a cause not easy to explain, escaped mutilation’; and, in consequence of their better pre¬ servation, were drawn by Carrey in 1G74, whilst he omitted the rest; and such as escaped the explosion were removed, 15 to London and 1 to Paris. One only, the westernmost, remains on the temple. This metope has reference to the war with the Centaurs, as had all those of the S, flank, with the excep¬ tion of 9, from the thirteenth to the twenty-first from the western end, as appears from the drawings of Carrey. The following account of the metopes w'hich remain on the building, and of the Panathenaic frieze, is abridged from Leake’s description, p. 545. On the eastern front the metopes seem to relate to the actions of Mi¬ nerva herself, and of the principal Athenian heroes, treated nearly in the same manner in which we often find them on the Ceramic paintings of Athens. Beginning from the S., the 1st metope represents a hero about to kill his fallen adversary, who has a lion’s skin. 2. A male figure contend¬ ing with another holding a bow, a pan¬ ther between them. 3. A hero bear¬ ing a shield, about to slay a bearded adversary. 4. Minerva Gigantophontis, another figure behind. 5. A female in a biga, perhaps Minerva, as the in- ventress of chariots for war or racing. 6. A hero, perhaps Hercules, destroy¬ ing a bearded figure; rocks behind. 7. Minerva taming Pegasus for Bel- lerophon. 8. A hero in armour attacks a bearded figure seated. 9. Hercules with the stolen tripod is seized by Apollo. 10. A female in a biga. 11. Theseus delivering an Athenian from the Minotaur. 12. Minerva Giganto¬ phontis. 13. A hero in armour about to slay a fallen adversary. 14. A biga rising from the water; two fishes near the wheels. On the N. side three Metopes re¬ main in position at the E., and nine at the V/. end. These generally repre¬ sent female figures, and may have re¬ lated to the contest of the Athenians with the Amazons, as the other side of the temple relates to their other great fabulous contest. It appears, how¬ ever, that nine of the Metopes on this side represented Centaurs (see Brond- sted,Voy,, &c., p.273). But the subjects of the greater number are scarcely dis¬ tinguishable. The westernmost is very beautiful, and well preserved, and represents a woman draped hold¬ ing a large veil with both hands, and standing before a draped figure seated upon a rock. The fourth from the W. is Bellerophon and Pegasus drinking. The eighth, two females before an altar. Besides these, a few pieces have been found among the fragments Northern Greece, route 2. —ancient Athens—the tarthenon. 167 during the excavations, and were lately to be seen, some near the W. end, and others in the interior of the Naos. On the western front the seventh and eighth from the S. are obliterated; but it appears from the rest that alternately a man on horse¬ back with a prostrate man below him, and two combatants on foot, were re¬ presented—the whole probably rela¬ ting to the warlike exploits of the Athenians. There is an Oriental cha¬ racter in the dress of some of the van¬ quished combatants. Pamthenaic Frieze. — The frieze which crowned the exterior of the trm'o;, or cella, was covered throughout its whole extent with sculptures in low relief, about 3| feet high, representing the procession of the greater or quad¬ rennial Panathensea. This composi¬ tion, although treated very poetically, is yet on the whole correctly descrip¬ tive of what actually took place. Carrey’s drawings, and the 335 feet out of 525 which actually remain of this frieze, give us a tolerably ade¬ quate idea of the entire work. In the centre of the eastern end were twelve deities seated on chairs : six faced the S. and six the N. These two groups were separated by five stand¬ ing figures, representing a priestess of Minerva and the girls called Arrhe- phorce in the act of celebrating the mystery of Erichthonius, and the ottering of the peplus. Towards these deities the procession advanced in two parallel lines from W. to E., one along the northern, the other along tne southern side of the temple, and faced inwards after turning the two angles of the eastern front, so as to converge from both sides towards the centre. Jupiter, seated on a chair adorned with asphynx and accompanied by Juno, with Hebe in attendance, Mars, Ceres, Bacchus, and Mercury received the southern procession. In front of them stood six magistrates; then eleven young women; then a magistrate occupying the southern corner, and looking round at that part of the procession which followed. First come the sacrificial oxen; some quietly moving along, others violently struggling against the men who are leading them. After these females; then quadrigae; and lastly that most admirable part of the composition—the horsemen, the elite of Athens, imbued with the graceful elasticity of a youth trained in the gymnasium, their fea¬ tures lighted up with a modest pride and exultation, on account of the ser¬ vice they are called on that day to perform; and no less admirable are the horses and their many trampling feet so full of motion. These ex¬ tended as far as the western angle, where the last horseman is accom¬ panied by a man on foot. The deities at the middle of the E. end, who re¬ ceive the northern procession, seem to be Aesculapius and Hygieia, Neptune, Theseus, Agraulos, and Pandrosus, and with them the young Erechtheus. Six magistrates stand before them, and a seventh, turning round to the young women that follow him. These follow singly, bearing vases, paterae, &c., and are supposed to represent the daugh¬ ters of noble citizens. The victims follow as on the S. After these, men bearing trays filled with offerings, flute players, and a chorus who sing poems. After these, quadrigae, like those on the S.; and from hence to the extremity of the northern side is a procession of Ephebi on horseback, with the same admirable variety of action, costume, and drapery displayed in the horsemen of the southern frieze. The last is followed by a boy on foot, who terminates the N. side. The western frieze has this peculiar fortune—one that will be appreciated by the traveller—that it still adorns its original position. The figures face the N., so as to appear to be the con¬ tinuation of the northern line. It is formed of dismounted horsemen, and seems intended to represent the rear of the procession, where the individuals had not yet fallen into their ranks. Some draw on their buskins and adjust their bridles ; others are just mounting their horses; while some struggle with their horses which are trying to escape. One horse bends its neck downwards, as if to brush off a fiy from its fore¬ leg. A magistrate at the N.W. angle 168 ROUTE 2. —ANCIENT ATHENS-THE PARTHENON. Sect. II. appears to superintend this part of the procession, which terminates at the south-western angle, with a man on foot holding up his chlamys. Such were the works with which the master-mind of Phidias informed the Parthenon. Their remains, albeit the finest sculptures existing, recall but faintly their ancient splendour. The statues and reliefs, as well as the members of the architecture, were en¬ riched, but to what extent is not cer¬ tain, with various colours; and the weapons, the reins of horses, and other accessories, were of metal, as evi¬ denced by numerous round holes and the remains of bronze fastenings in some of those holes: the eyes also of some of the larger statues were inlaid. Besides the sculptures above men¬ tioned, there are traces of pedestals on the middle steps, in front of the co¬ lumns of the peristyle of the N. and S. sides, on which doubtless figures were placed. With respect to the painting of the architecture and sculpture, called poly- chromy, very little is accurately known. At the same time, it is cer¬ tain, both from historical evidence and that of the monuments themselves, that the architecture was painted, and to some extent also the sculpture. It is likely, however, that much may have been merely tinged in such a way as not to conceal the beauty of the marble. The traces on the sculp¬ tures are very scanty. Some have thought that the background was blue, others red. The draperies must cer¬ tainly have been coloured, to match the metal arms and trappings with which we know that they were adorned; and that being the case, some degree of tint would be required upon the flesh. Of the architecture, a little more can be asserted. Many of the mould¬ ings retain traces of patterns of orna¬ ments beautifully drawn upon them, of a character unquestionably contem¬ porary with the building of the temple. In some of the best protected parts the pigment itself remains. The vehicle was chiefly wax. The underside of the cornice was for the most part deep blue, with occasional bands of red; the guttse seem to have been gilt. Blue was used in the channels of the triglyphs. The strong colour seems to have been chiefly confined to the parts which were in shade. The co¬ lumns, architraves, and broader sur¬ faces were probably merely tinged with an ochreous colour, which the minerals of Laurium furnished, and to such an extent only, as to anticipate the rich golden hue produced by time on the Pentelic marble, without which the brightness of so large a body of white would have been painful to the eye. The want of some such toning down may be felt in the portico of King Otho’s palace. It is almost cer¬ tain that the exterior of the cella walls of the Theseum, and probably also of the Parthenon, were painted with his¬ torical subjects. In the latter temple, however, Pausanias only mentions those within the pronaos. The ceil¬ ings were adorned with deep blue panels, with gilt stars and other orna¬ ments. In these, as well as the poly- chromy in general, there was a perfect analogy between the Parthenon, The¬ seum, and Propylsea. Very little has been noticed of remains of colour on the Erechtheum; but an inscription, found in the Propylsea in 1836, records the prices paid for polychromatic de¬ coration of that temple, chiefly rela¬ ting to the interior. (Consult ‘ Revue Archaeologique,’ May, 1851; Kugler’s ‘ Handbook of Painting Hittorff’s work on Sicilian Temples, ‘ Principles of Athenian Architecture,’ &c.) The traveller should not fail to look for a peculiar refinement recently dis¬ covered in the construction of the Greek temples of the best period, and of which the most remarkable instance is to be found in the Parthenon: namely, a systematic deviation from ordinary rectilinear construction, which has for its object the correction of certain optical illusions arising from the influence produced upon one another by lines which have different directions, and by contrasting masses of light and shade. Almost all lines which are straight and level in ordinary architecture are Northern Greece, route 2. —ancient Athens—the Parthenon. 169 here delicate curves, and those lines ■which are usually perpendicular have here a slight inclination backwards or forwards as the case may be. It is further certain that they were advi¬ sedly built so, and have not arisen from any accident. Here we can do no more than mention two of the most impor¬ tant instances. If a spectator stand at the N.E. comer of the Parthenon (the most convenient spot for taking this observation), and placing his eye level with the upper step, look along the edges from end to end, he will find that although the steps lie in a vertical plane (*. e., they do not bulge outwards or retire inwards hori¬ zontally), yet they rise very percep- tioly in the middle, and give to the whole pavement a convex character. The rise is about 3 inches in 100 feet on the fronts, and 4 inches on the flanks — the exact measurements being respectively ‘228 feet in 10 T 34 and '355 in 228'14. A nearly parallel line is found in the entablature, but is not quite so regu¬ lar as in the stylobate as is natural to suppose, owing to the concussions the building has received from explosions and earthquakes. Its less degree of regularity is attributable solely to this circumstance. In the ‘ Principles of Athenian Architecture,’ p. 78, the reason for the origin of this curve is sought in the contrasting lines of the flat Greek pediment, which have the effect of apparently deflecting the straight line of the cornice in its neigh¬ bourhood. Respecting the inclination ot the vertical lines, the lower drums or frusta, of the columns should be' noticed. If we measure from the pavement up to the first joint, we shall find a considerable difference between_ a vertical measurement on the outside nearest the step, and one taken at a corresponding point on the inside towards the temple. In the angle columns these differences will be the most considerable: the outside dimension measured on the angle will exceed the inside by nearly two inches. About half of this difference is due to Greece. the convexity of the pavement before mentioned, and the remaining half to the inclination of the axes of the columns, which lean inwards towards the temple to the extent of nearly three inches in their height. '228 feet in 34‘25 is the exact dimension. The effect of the pyramidal character thus imparted is very grateful to the eye, and but for it, owing to various con¬ trasts, the columns would actually have appeared to lean outwards. These deviations from ordinary con¬ struction are so admirably adjusted as to be quite imperceptible from the usual points of view. The effect produced is to give an appearance of perfect straightness and perpendicularity to lines which would otherwise have appeared bent or inclined in a wrong direction: and it was not until after the steps of the Parthenon had been cleared of rubbish so as to enable a person to look along their whole length that the curves were noticed, first by Mr. John Pennethorne, an English architect, in 1837, and shortly after¬ wards by the German architects Hn. Hofer and Schaubert. There is a similar history respecting the entasis or convexity of the profile in the columns of the Greek temples. These were.long considered to be straight lines, so exactly do they balance the optical illusion which gives an attenu¬ ated appearance to columns which have straight sides. But if the eye be placed in a proper position at the base, the curve, although delicate, becomes perceptible. In the optical corrections just men¬ tioned, there is an almost perfect analogy in the Propylsea, and though on a much smaller scale, in the The- seum; and to some extent in the Erechtheum and Temple of Jupiter Olympius at Athens, as also in some other of the temples of Greece and Sicily, and in Italy at Psestum, They are always found most fully developed in temples of the Doric order. A large model of the W. front of the Parthenon, now constructing at the new Crystal Palace at Sydenham, under the direction of Mr. Penrose, 170 ROUTE 2. -ANCIENT ATHENS-THE ERECHTHEUM. Sect. II. to whose work on the subject we have had occasion to refer, is intended to embody all these peculiarities, as well as to represent, so far as can be re¬ covered, the polychromy and sculpture of the ancient temple. There are two models of the Par¬ thenon, by Mr. Lucas, in the Elgin room of the British Museum, which are useful in explaining the reference which the sculptures there preserved bore to the temple. (Comp. Laborde et Paccard, Le Parthenon : Documents pour servir a une Restauration, Paris, 1848.) It has been already stated that the Parthenon was converted into a Chris¬ tian church, dedicated to the Virgin- Mother, probably in the sixth century. Upon the conquest of Athens by the Turks, it was changed into a mosque, and down to the year 1687 the building remained almost entire with the excep¬ tion of the roof. Of its condition before this year we have more than one. account. In i674 were made the drawings of its sculptures by Carrey, which have been of so much service in the resto¬ ration of the sculptures, especially in the pediments. In 1676 Athens was visited by Spoil and Wkeler, each of whom published an account of the Par¬ thenon (Spon, Voyage du Levant, 1678; Wheler, Journey into Greece , 1682). In 1687, when Athens was besieged by the Venetians under Morosini, a shell, falling into the Parthenon, as we have before mentioned, destroyed the cen¬ tral part of the building. Of the northern side of the peristyle eight columns were wholly or partially thrown down; and of the southern, six columns; while of the pronaos only one column was left standing. The two fronts escaped, together with a portion of the Opisthodomus. Morosini, after the capture of the city, attempted to carry off some of the statues in the western pediment; but, owing to the unskilful¬ ness of the Venetians, they were thrown down as they were being lowered, and were dashed in pieces. At the beginning of the present century, many of the finest sculptures of the Parthenon were re¬ moved to England, as has been men¬ tioned above. In 1827 the Parthenon received fresh injury, from the bom¬ bardment of the city in that year; of which the most conspicuous marks are the white fractures which so wofully deface the columns of the western portico; but even in its present state of desolation, the magnificence of its ruins still strikes the spectator with as¬ tonishment and admiration. The following account of the Ereclr- theum is abbreviated and the plan bor¬ rowed from Dr. Smith’s Dictionary, p. 275. 4. The Trechthemn .—“ The Erecli- theurn (’E^s%$£~<>v) was the most revered of all the sanctuaries of Athens, and was closely connected with the earliest legends of Attica. Erechtheus or Ericli- thonius, for the same person is signified under the two names, occupies a most important position in the Athenian re¬ ligion. His story is related variously ; but it is only necessary on the present occasion to refer to those portions of it which serve to illustrate the following account of the building which bears his name. Homer represents Erechtheus as born of the Earth, and brought up by the goddess Athena, who adopts him as her ward, and instals him in her temple at Athens, where the Athenians offer to him annual sacrifices (Horn. II. ii. 546, Od. vii. 81). Later writers call Erechtheus or Erichthonius the son of Hephaestus and the Earth, but they also relate that he was brought up by Athena, who made him her companion in her temple. According to one form of the legend he was placed by Athena in a chest, which was entrusted to the charge of Aglaurus, Pandrosus, and Herse, the daughters of Cecrops, with strict orders not to open it; but that Aglauriis and Herse, unable to control their curiosity, disobeyed the command; and upon see¬ ing the child in the form of a serpent entwined with a serpent, they were seized with madness, and threw themselves down from the steepest part of the Acropolis. Another set of traditions represented Erechtheus as the god Poseidon. Northern Greece, route 2. —axciext athexs—the erechtheum. 171 “ The foundation of the Erechtheum is thus connected with the origin of the Athenian religion. We have seen that according to Homer a temple of Athena existed on the Acropolis before the birth of Erechtheus; but Erechthens was usually regarded as the founder of the temple, since he was the chief means of establishing the religion of Athena in Attica. This temple was also the place of his interment, and was named after him. It contained several objects of the greatest interest to every Athenian. Here was the most ancient statue of Athena Polias, that is, Athena, the guardian of the city. This statue was made of olive-wood, and was said to have fallen down from heaven. Here was the sacred olive tree, which Athena called forth from the earth in her con¬ test with Poseidon for the possession of Attica; here also was the well of salt 1 water which Poseidon produced by the \ stroke of lh.3 trident, the impression of i which was seen upon the rock; and here, lastly, was the tomb of Cecrops as well as that of Erechtheus. The build¬ ing also contained a separate sanctuary of Athena Polias, in which the statue of the goddess was placed, and a separate sanctuary of Pandrosus, the only one of the sisters who remained faithful to her trust. The more usual name of the entire structure was the Erechtheum, which consisted of the two temples of Athena Polias and Pandrosus. But the whole building was also frequently called the temple of Athena Polias, in consequence of the importance attached to this part of the edifice. “ The original Erechtheum was burnt by the Persians; but the new temple was built upon the ancient site. This could not have been otherwise, since it was impossible to remove either the salt well or the olive tree, the latter of which Sacred objects had been miraculously spared. Though it had been burnt along with the temple, it was found on the second day to have put forth a new sprout of a cubit in length, or, accord¬ ing to the subsequent improvement ot the story, of two cubits in length (Herod, viii. 55; Paus. i. 27, § 2). The new Erechtheum was a singularly beautiful building, and one of the great triumphs of Athenian architecture. It was of the Ionic order, and in its general appear¬ ance formed a striking contrast to the Parthenon of the Doric order by its side. The rebuilding of the Erechtheum appears to have been delayed by the determination of the people to erect a new temple exclusively devoted to their goddess, and of the greatest splendour and magnificence. This new temple, the Parthenon, which absorbed the public attention and means, was fol¬ lowed by the Propyhea; and it was probably not till the completion of the latter in the year before the Peloponne¬ sian war, that the rebuilding of the Erechtheum was commenced, or at least continued, with energy. The Pelopon¬ nesian war would naturally cause the works to proceed slowly until they were quite suspended, as we learn from a very interesting inscription, bearing the date of the arehonship of Diodes, that is, b.c. 409-8. This inscription, which was discovered by Chandler, and is now in the British Museum, is the report of a commission appointed by the Athenians to take an account of the unfinished parts of the building. The commission consisted of two inspectors (ivriv or grotto described by Pausanias, with a pilaster in the centre, exactly as we see it at the present day, or, still better, as shown in its restored state by Stuart, cleared of the modern wall by which the aperture was closed, when the cave was formed into a small church, dedi¬ cated to ri Tlu.'ttt.y'iU, l.^rnXiu’riffira., or OllT Lady of the Cavern.” — Leake, p. 187. It is impossible to leave the theatre without comparing its present deso¬ lation with the throngs that once assembled there, and without thinking of the mighty influence exerted upon ' those crowded audiences by the tra¬ gedies of iEschylus, Sophocles, and the Athenian’s favourite Euripides. Westwards of the theatre is a wall supported on arches of very late and irregular construction, the sub-base¬ ment, probably, of a covered stoa, connecting the theatre with 16 . The Odeum of Herodes or Legilla, situate beneath the southern wall of the Acropolis at the western extremity. It was built by Herodes Atticus in the time of the Antonines, in honour of his deceased wife Regilla. Pausanias, who did not mention it in his description of Athens, because not then built, sub¬ sequently remarks that it surpassed all other Odeia in Greece. The roof¬ ing of so large a building required great architectural skill, and excited the greater admiration as having been Greece. AENT ATHENS.—THE ASTY. of cedar. The diameter within the walls was about 240 feet, and seems to have been capable of holding 6000 persons. There are considerable re¬ mains of the building; but as Mure remarks, owing to the rows of small and apparently useless arches which i break up the masses into insignificant portions, in spite of its size it has a mean appearance. It is built partly of brick and partly of magnesian lime¬ stone. Behind the Odeum, i. e. be¬ tween it and the Acropolis, is the supposed site of the temple of iEscu- ! lapius, which, according to Pausanias, j contained statues of Bacchus and his children, and pictures worthy of inspection. Leaving the Odeum and passing a little westwards of the Acropolis we come to 17. The Areopagus, a place to us full of an interest not mainly derived from the associations of ancient Athens. Not, however, that it is devoid of such interest. Pausanias thus describes it:—Not far dis¬ tant [from the cave of Apollo and Pan] is the Areopagus, so called be¬ cause Mars was the first person here tried for the murder of Halirrhothius. Here is an altar of Minerva Areia dedicated by Orestes, on escaping punishment for the murder of his mother. Here also are two rude stones, upon one of which the accuser stands, and upon the other the defendant. Near this place is the sanctuary of the goddesses called Semnae, but whom Hesiod in the Theogonia names Erin- nyes. iEschylus was the first to repre¬ sent them with snakes in their hair; but here the statues have nothing ferocious in their aspect, nor have those of the other subterranean deities here represented, namely, Pluto, Hermes, and the Earth.”- Leake says, p. 165, “The identity of the Areopagus with that rocky height which is separated only from the western end of the Acropolis by a hollow, forming a communication be¬ tween the northern and southern divi¬ sions of the ancient city, is found in the words of Pausanias (above quoted), and In the remark of Herodotus that it K 194 ROUTE 2. — ANCIENT ATHENS.—TIIE ASTW Sect. II. was a height over against the Acropolis from whence the Persians assailed the western end of the Acropolis; and in the lines of ZEschylus, describing the position of the camp of the Amazons (Eumenid. 689). Nor ought we to neglect the strong traditional evidence afforded by the church of Dionysius the Areopagite, of which the ruins were seen by Wheler and Spoil at the foot of the height of the N.E. side.” The present appearance is described by Wordsworth, p. 74:—“Sixteen stone steps cut in the rock at its S.W. angle lead up to the hill of the Areopagus from the valley of the Agora. This angle seems to be the point of the hill on which the Council of the Areopagus sat. Immediately above the steps, on the level of the hill, is a bench of stone excavated in the limestone rock, form¬ ing three sides of a quadrangle, like a triclinium : it faces the S.: on its E. and W. side is a raised block; the former may, perhaps, have been the tribunal, the two latter the rude stones which Pausanias saw.” The_ great and solemn Areopagite Council (fiouXti) sat in the open air; but there was also a Court rwiov), which was held, probably, in the building described by Vitruvius (2, 1) as roofed with tile. Below the northern end of the east¬ ern extremity of the hill of Mars is a deep fissure, or wide long chasm, in the low precipices which border the height: within these is a source of black water, esteemed by the peasants I for its medicinal virtues. This gloomy recess was probably the aditum of the temple of the Semnae or Erinnyes. But the chief interest in the Areo¬ pagus is connected with a far dif¬ ferent worship—in the events de¬ scribed in the 17th chapter of the Acts of the Apostles. The following commentary on those events is taken from Conybeare and Howson’s Life and Epistles of St. Paul, a work abounding in valuable illustration. “ The Athenians took the Apostle from the tumult of public discussion to the place which was at once most convenient and appropriate. The place to which they took him was the | | summit of the Areopagus, where the most awful court of judicature had sat from time immemorial, to pass sentence on the greatest criminals, and to de¬ cide the most solemn questions con¬ nected with religion. The judges sat in the open air upon seats hewn out in the rock, on a platform, which was ascended by a flight of stone steps im¬ mediately from the Agora. On this spot a long series of awful causes con¬ nected with crime and religion had been determined, beginning with the legendary trial of Mars, which gave to the place the name of Mars’ Hill. A temple of the god was, as we have seen, on the brow of the eminence [on the southern slope of the Areopagus] : and an additional solemnity was given to the place by the sanctuary of the Furies in a broken cleft of the rock, immediately below the judges’ seats. Even in the political decay of Athens this spot and this court were regarded by the people with superstitious re¬ verence. It was a scene with which the dread recollections of centuries were associated. It was a place of silent awe in the midst of the gay and frivolous city. Those who withdrew to the Areopagus from the Agora came, as it were, into the presence of a higher power. “ There was everything in the place to incline the auditors, so far as they were seriously disposed at all, to "a reverent and thoughtful attention. It is probable that Dionysius, with the other Areopagites, were on the judi¬ cial seats ; and a vague tradition of the dread thoughts associated by poetry and tradition with the Hill of Mars may have solemnised the minds of some of those who crowded up the stone steps with the Apostle, and clustered round the summit of the hill to hear his announcement of the new divinities. “ There is no point in the annals of the first planting of Christianity which seizes so powerfully on the imagina¬ tion of those who are familiar with the history of the ancient world. Whether we contrast the intense earnestness of the man who spoke with the frivolous character of those who surrounded Northern Greece, route 2 . —ancient Athens.—the astv. 193 him—or compare the certain truth and awful meaning of the Gospel he re¬ vealed with the worthless polytheism which had made Athens a proverb on the earth—or even think of the mere words uttered that day in the clear atmosphere on the summit of Mars’ Hill, in connexion with the objects of art, temples, statues, and altars, which stood round on every side; we feel that the moment was, and was intended to be, full of the most impressive teach¬ ing for every age of the world. Close to the spot where he stood was the temple of Mars. * That of the Eumenides was immediately below him; the Par¬ thenon of Minerva faciug him above. Their presence seemed to challenge the assertion in which he declared here, on olz £v vao7g zxrotKU o &zog y 1 that in temples made hi/ hands the Deity does not dwell. In front of him. towering over the city from its pe¬ destal on the rock of the Acropolis— as the Borromean Colossus, which at this day, with outstretched hand, gives its benediction to the low village of Arona, or as the brazen statue of the armed angel, which, from the summit of the Castel S. Angelo, spreads its wings over the city of Rome—was the bronze Colossus of Minerva, armed with a spear, shield, and helmet, as the champion of Athens. Standing almost beneath its shade, he pro¬ nounced, that neither to that, the work of Phidias, nor to other forms in gold, I silver, or stone, graven by art and man’s device, which peopled the scene I before him, the Deity was like.’— Wordsworth, p. 75. “ Wherever his eye was turned it saw a succession of such statues and build- , ings in every variety of form and I situation. On the rocky ledges, on the 1 south side of the Acropolis, and in the I midst of the hum of the Agora, were the ‘ objects of devotion ’ already de¬ scribed. And in the northern parts of the city, which are equally visible from the Areopagus, on the level spaces, and on every eminence, were i similar objects, and especially that temple of Theseus, the national hero, which remains in unimpaired beauty, to enable us to imagine what Athens was when this temple was only one among the many ornaments of that city which was wholly given to idolatry. “ In this scene St. Paul spoke, pro¬ bably in his wonted attitude, stretching out his hand, his bodily aspect still showing what he had suffered from weakness, toil, and pain, and the traces of sadness and anxiety mingled on his countenance, with the expression of unshaken faith. Whatever his personal appearance may have been, w T e know the words he spoke.”— Conyhearc and Iloicson, p. 401, sq. Although any commentary on those words would be out of place here, it is yet important for our appreciation of the Athenian character to bear in mind that in one point our translation does not properly convey the Apostle’s meaning. ”Av3»s; ’Air, valet Kara rravra us ^uaihaiuovitrrlcovs iftas iiuou : ‘ Ye men of Athens, I perceive that in all things ye are too superstitious.’ The Apostle did not here intend to blame, but to remark, rather with praise, on that element which led them to be peculiarly observant of unseen influ¬ ences. In illustration of this we know that the Athenians deified abstractions. “ Altars were raised to Fame, Modesty, Energy, Persuasion, and Pity. This last altar is mentioned by Pausanias among those objects in the Agora “ which are not understood by all men for, he adds, “ the Athenians alone, of all the Greeks, give divine honour to Pity.” Another illustration of the groping after the abstract and invisible was the altar inscribed to the Unknown God, which was used by the Apostle to point the way to the highest truth.”— Conyhearc and IJowson, p. 382. Pausanias describes altars to the “ Unknown God ” at Phalerum, and it appears that by the advice of Epime- nides of Crete, about b.c. COO, they were erected in various places, both in Athens and in the demi. See Leake, pp. 393, n. 3. The narrow ridge of the Areopagus is cut in all parts for foundations, and there are cisterns and other signs of dwellings, especially near the Nym- phseum. After examining the cave of the Eumenides we may return by way k 2 196 ROUTE 2. —ANCIENT ATHENS.—THE ASTI'. Sect. II. of that of Apollo and Pan, already de¬ scribed, and the Pelasgicum, to the Tower of the Winds, from whence we started. A little more than half a mile N. of the Acropolis, and behind the Hotel d’Angleterre, stands an iso¬ lated column of the Euboean marble called by the Italians cipollino, but nothing is known about it. 18. The Ceramicus, Academy, Sfc .— The Ceramicus was so called from having been occupied, by the Athenian potters (ztgafiiis), who carried on a great export trade in ancient times. It was divided into two districts, the inner and outer. We have seen that the inner Ceramicus comprehended the Agora, and was remarkable for containing the principal street in Athens. This street, at the gate Dipy- lum, divided into two roads, passing through the outer Ceramicus, one the sacred road leading to Eleusis, the other to the Academy, the most famous of the Athenian gymnasia, distant 6 or 8 stadia from the gate. On each side of these two roads were the tombs of those citizens who had fallen in battle, or were otherwise famous. Of these remain only a few rude masses, not unlike the tombs on the old Via Appia, near Rome but smaller. When perfect they must have added great effect and interest to those two ap¬ proaches, from which, of all other points, the Acropolis shows itself to the greatest advantage. Pausanias has recorded many of the tombs. Some were only simple trr7,Aa.i, or pillars, on which were inscribed the name and demits of every citizen who had fallen in particular battles, not omitting even the servile class. Near the gate, and on the road to the Academy, were buried Thrasy- bulus, Pericles, Chabrias, and Phormio. Beyond these, the tombs of the Athe¬ nians who had been slain in battle by sea and land, with the exception only of those who fell at Marathon, and were buried there. Here were the victims of the disastrous expedition to Sicily, and the defeat of /EgOGpotami, Nicias alone being omitted, who had surrendered to the Syracusans; and near them those who fell in the brilliant double victory of the Eury- medon, and in other victorious battles. Here were also tombs of Zeno, founder of the sect of the Stoics, of Ilarinodius and Aristogeiton, and many others. Hie manus ob patriam pugnando vulnera passi, Quique sacerdotes casti dum vita manebat, Quique pii vates, et Pboebo digna locuti, lnventas aut qui vitam excoluere per artes, Quique sui memores alios fecere nuerendo. Virg. vi. But alas! at least one name was want¬ ing, which would have made this noble Campo Santo more complete, and who deserved better of his country, the pure patriot, though unsuccessful — Demosthenes. The Academy was surrounded with a wall built by Hipparchus, and was planted and divided into walks and embellished with fountains by Cimon. It was celebrated for its plane trees. A brief account of the uses of the gymnasia in the Greek cities is given above under head 4. The Academy was the favourite haunt of Plato, who lived in a house on a small estate which he possessed in the vicinity. That part of the plain bordering on the Cephisus and the olive-grove is still called Acadhimia (' Axalx,f/.icc). Not far off to the N. are two small eminences. The southernmost is the hill of the sacred Colonus, celebrated by So¬ phocles as the scene of the death of GEdipus (CEdip. Col. 668). On its sum¬ mit a modern stele of marble, and of classical form, marks the grave of the distinguished scholar and antiquary 0. K. Muller, whose too great zeal in Athenian researches brought on a fever, of which he died. 19. Aqueduct of Hadrian, fc. — On the southern slope of Lycabettus stood in the time of Stuart two unfluted Ionic columns, supporting an entabla¬ ture, and forming part of the frontis¬ piece of a reservoir supplied with water by an aqueduct taken from the Ce¬ phisus. The piers of some of the arches remain near the village of Der- vish-Agu, 5 or 6 miles N. of Athens. It appeared from an inscription that it was built by Hadrian for the supply of the Hadrianopolis, or new quarter of the city which he built, or so far im¬ proved that it was called after his Northern Greece, route 2 . —axci name. Lower down the hill, to the southward, was the gymnasium called Cvnosarges, the school of Autistheues, the founder of the Cynics. It gave its name to the suburb in the immediate neighbourhood. The Heracleumof Cy- nosarges, being on a rising ground and commanding a distant view of the road of Phaleruin, was the position taken by the Athenian army after the victory of Marathon, when they heard of the sailing of the Persian fleet round Su- nium towards Phalerum, and marched in all haste to the defence of their city. A little S.S.E. of the Cvnosarges was the Lyceum, one of the two chief gymnasia of Athens; it stood near the banks of the Ilissus, and was, like the Academy, celebrated for its plane trees. The sacred inclosure of Apollo Ly- cius was embellished by Pisistratus, Pericles, and Lyeurgus, son of Lyco- phron. It seems to have been a fa¬ vourite 1 aunt of Socrates, and became the school of Aristotle, whose followers were called Peripatetics from their custom of delivering their lectures while walking in the grove of the Lyceum. VI. Pirceis and the Port /’own *.— The greater part of the following ac¬ count is taken from the article on the above head in Dr. Smith’s Dictionary, p. 304:—Between 4 and 5 miles S.W. of the Asty is the peninsula of Piraus, consisting of two rocky heights divided from each other by a narrow isthmus, the eastern, or that nearest the city, being the higher of the two. This penin¬ sula contains three natural basins or harbours, a large one on the western side, called in modern times Drdko, or Porto Leone, and two smaller ones on the eastern side, called also in vulgar Greek Stratwtiln and Phanari; the latter, which was nearer the city, being the smaller of the two. Thucy¬ dides describes Piraeus as x a P ‘*» '-W T * i ~* “OTofv-d; — a place having three natural harbours. Down to the time of the Persian wars Athens had only one harbour, called Plialerum. Pau- sanias says, “ The Piraeus was a deinus from early times, but was not used as a harbour before Themistocles admi¬ nistered the affairs of the Athenians. Before that time their harbour was at EXT ATHENS.—TIR-EUS, ETC. 197 Phalerum, at the spot where the sea is nearest to the city.But The¬ mistocles, when he held the govern¬ ment, perceiving that Piraeus was more conveniently situated for navi¬ gation, and that it possessed three ports Instead of the one at Phalerum, made it into a receptacle for ships.” from this passage, and that of Thucydides quoted above, it would seem a natural inference that the three ancient ports of Pirams were those of Prato, Stra- tiotiki and Phanari, and that Phalerum had nothing to do with the peninsula of Piraus, but was situated more to the E., where the sea-shore is nearest to Athens. Modern writers have, for the most part, however, supposed that the large harbour of Piraeus was di¬ vided into three ports, Cantharus, Zea, and Aphrodisium, and that Munychia and Phalerum were the two small ports to the S.E. of the peninsula, viz. Stratio- tiki and Phanari. Ulriehs, in a pamphlet published in modern Greek,and already referred to, divides the larger harbour into two instead of three parts; the no-thern, and by far larger half, being appropriated to merchantmen, and called Emporium, and the southern part, called Cantharus, appropriated to ships of war. He supposes the larger of the two basins to the S.E., or Stratiotiki, to be Zea, instead of Muny¬ chia, as it has generally been supposed ; and he places Munychia at Porto Phanari, which was once supposed to be Phalerum. The reader should be informed that in the map the position of Munychia has been given according to the usual notion, and not according to the very probable determination of Ulriehs. Phalerum he places, as already men¬ tioned, at Trispy rgi [the Three Towers, ToCa (it /oyat]: see map. Ulriehs was led to these conclusions chiedy by the valuable inscriptions relating to the maritime affairs of Athens which were discovered in 1834, near the mouth of the larger harbour, published by Bockh. We are told that the rocky peninsula of Pirams was originally an island, which was gradually connected with the mainland by the accumulation of sand. This space thus filled up was 198 Sect. II. ROUTE 2 . —ANCIENT ATHENS_PIRAEUS, ETC. called. Halipedum, and continued a marshy swamp almost inaccessible in winter until the construction of the broad carriage road &/u.a%,ris, which was carried across it. Thus the port of Phalerum, if at Trispyrgi, the nearest point of the coast to the city, besides being protected by the round hill of the cape, would have the addi¬ tional advantage in early times of being accessible at all times of the year by a dry road. Phalerum was little used after the foundation of Piraeus, but the place continued to exist down to the time of Pausanias, who mentions among its monuments the temples of Demeter Zeus and Athena Sciras, and altars of the Unknown Gods, of the sons of Theseus, and of Phalerus ; and the tomb of Aristides was there. The bay was celebrated for fish. Piraeus was a demus, and contained the whole peninsula, both the heights and the flat. Munychia was included within it, and was not a separate demus. Munychia was the Acropolis of Piraeus, and was the hill now called KwsXXk — the highest point in the peninsula (about 300 feet above the sea), and the nearest to Athens; at its foot is the small basin, the Porto Phanari. The whole peninsula was surrounded by Themistocles with a strong line of fortifications; the wall, 60 stadia in circumference, was 60 feet high. The¬ mistocles is said to have intended it to have been twice that height (but Appian must surely have made some mistake here). The wall was, how¬ ever, constructed of unusual solidity, as its existing remains show. The walls inclosed the whole of the greater har¬ bour, and the small rocky promontory of Eetionia, which forms its N. side, and on which is the light. The walls which inclosed Eetionia are remark¬ able from the position of the fosse, which is not, as usual, immediately at the foot of the wall, but is cut in the rock about 40 feet in advance of the curtain, perhaps with the view of preventing the erection of battering- rams within breaching distance as effectually as a fosse of a width greater by thoseadditioaal40feetwouldhave done. The fortifications of the ports were connected with the Asty by means of the Phaleric wall, leading to Phalerum, running in a direction nearly S.W., and 35 stadia in length, and the two long walls 40 stadia in length, and nearly S.S.W. in their di¬ rection, leading down to the Piraeus. The Phaleric wall and the northern of the two long walls were the first built: they were commenced in the year b.c. 457, and finished in the following year. They appear to have been undertaken by the advice of Pericles, thus fully carrying out the designs of Themis¬ tocles. Between 456 and 431 (the year of the breaking out of the Pelopon¬ nesian war) the southern long wall, called the Intermediate, was built by the advice of Pericles, to make the communication with the Piraeus more secure. When this wall had been built, the Phaleric wall was allowed to fall into decay ; the port Phalerum had already become unimportant, and the distance of the Phaleric from the northern wall was so great that each required its full complement of men, whereas, owing to the contiguity of the two long walls, the same force could readily man both walls, as it would be unlikely that in the presence of such a city as Athens, an enemy would so divide his forces as to attack both walls simultaneously. (Comp. Leahe, p. 416.) In describing the stations assigned to the infantry, when in the time of the Peloponnesian war the Boeotians advanced to the frontiers, Andocides (de Myst., p. 22, Beiske) says, the troops in the Asty were stationed in the Agora, those in the Long Walls in the Theseum, and those in the Piraeus in the Hippodameian Agora. The open and elevated position of the temple of Theseus would be favourable for the head-quarters of a corps of observation, and is not far from the head, or Asty termination, of the Long Walls, though not within them; but on the authority of several authors, a second Theseum within the Long Walls has been assumed. (See Leahe. p. 419.) Between the two Long Walls was the great carriage-road, the trya.- Northern Greece, route 2 .— axc %iris before mentioned, and on either side of the road appear to have been numerous houses in the time of the Peloponnesian war, probably forming a broad street between 4 and 5 miles in length. This space was crowded in the time of the Gredt Plague, and is described as having been the scene of much suffering on that occasion. And when the Athenians received the intelligence brought by night by the galley* Paralia, ot the defeat at rEgospotami, we read in Xenophon, “Then a sound of lamentation was heard spreading from the Piraeus through the Long Walls to the city, as each person communicated the intel¬ ligence to his neighbour. No one slept that night; for they not only- lamented the loss of those who had perished, but feared still more that the Lacedaemonians would retaliate upon them what they themselves had done to the Melii, a Lacedaemonian colony, and many other people of Greece.” | After this defeat the Athenians were obliged to submit to see their ships burnt and their walls overthrown by the Lacedaemonians to the sound of musical instruments. They- were after- . wards restored by Conon after the battle of Cnidus; and we read of their reparation from time to time. Indeed they would be continually- in need of reparation if, as there is reason to be¬ lieve, the lower courses only were of stone and the upper parts of unbaked brick. (See Leake, p. 424.) After the battle of Chferonea. Demosthenes pre¬ vailed on the Athenians to repair them, and expended a large sum of his pri¬ vate fortune on the work. In the year 200 b.c. they had completely fallen into decay, and the materials were used by Sylla when he besieged Athens b.c. 86 , in the construction of his mounds against the Piraeus. Pau- sanias notices the ruins of the Long Walls. Wheler and Spon no¬ ticed the foundations in many places of one of the walls, no doubt the northern one, upon which the modern road is carried across the marsh. Of their present state Leake says: “The Long Walls are still traceable in the IENT ATHENS.—TIRiEUS, ETC. 199 plain to the X.E. of the Piraic heights. Of the northern the foundations, which are about 12 feet thick, resting on the natural rock, and formed of large quadrangular blocks of stone in that solid manner which characterized the works of Themistocles, commence from the foot of the Piraic heights at half a mile from the head of the port Piraeus, and are traced in the direction of the modern road for more than a mile and a half towards the city, exactly in the direction of the entrance of the' Acropolis. Where no farther visible, they have been covered pro¬ bably by the alluvium of the Cephisus, which river crosses the Long W alls about the middle of their length. The southern Long W all is less easily traceable, except at its junction with the walls of Mum/chia [the word is r/uilenitn in the original, but we have seen that, according to recent authori¬ ties, Phalerum should be placed at the X.E. corner of the bay], and for about half a mile from thence towards the city. Commencing at the round tower situated above the N.W. angle of the PhaLrum bay, it followed the foot of the hill along the edge of the marsh for about 500 yards, then assumed for about half that distance a direction to the X T .E., from whence as far as trace¬ able it is exactly parallel to the north¬ ern Long Wall at a distance of 550 ft., and there can be little doubt that the two walls continued to follow the same direction throughout the plain. Excavations in the alluvial part might probably discover the foundations along a great part of their extent.” The nature of these works can be best understood from the remains of the walls of the Piraeus towards the plain, and near the modern road, which were in connexion with the Long Walls. Themistocles is supposed to have erected the fortifications of the Piraeus, and the town was laid out according to a regular plan by the architect Hippodamus of Miletus, who was in¬ vited (according to good authority brought forward by C. F. Hermann) by Pericles, although it is usually 200 ROUTE 2 -ANCIENT ATHENS.—PIKiEUS, ETC. Sect. II. stated that he was employed by Themistocles. Hippodamus laid out the town with broad straight streets crossing each other at right angles, still very evident, which thus formed a striking contrast with the narrow and crooked streets of Athens. The entrances to the three harbours of Piraeus were rendered very narrow by means of moles, which left only a passage in the middle for two or three triremes to pass abreast. These moles were a continuation of the walls of Piraeus, which ran down to either side of the mouths of the harbours. Either end of these moles was protected by a tower, and across the entrance chains were, in time of war, extended. Munychia, or Porto Phanari, if we accept Ulriehs’ views, contained 82 vz&iiroixoi, or ship-houses. Zea, or Strutiotiki, in the map called Munychia, the nearly circular basin about a quarter of a mile in diameter which runs into the middle of the promontory on its S. side, con¬ tained the greatest number of ships- of-war. It had 196 ship-houses. Some of these appear to have been in exist¬ ence in the time of Pausanias: indeed several of the slips, as they may be called, are still to be traced at the western side of this harbour. They lie side by side and converging towards the centre of the basin. Sunk in the solid rock, and under the water, may be seen pairs of grooves in which wheels seem to have been used for the purpose of hauling up the triremes. The width of the latter could not have exceeded about 14 feet. Port Dr&ho, or Porto Leons, the largest of the three harbours, was called simply pir^us, or the harbour (b Xifirn). The names which it bore in mediaeval times ("now it is again uni¬ versally called Piraeus), were derived from the colossal lion of white marble which Spon and Wilder observed on the beach—meaning in modern Greek, not a serpent only, but any monster. This lion was taken by Morosini to Venice, and is to be seen at the entrance to the Arsenal. The harbour of Piraeus appears to have been divided into two parts: of these, the smaller part, occupying the bay on the right hand just within the moles, or £sjA«/, crab’s claws, as they were called, was named Cantharus, the third of the Athenian harbours for ! ships-of-war, and contained 94 ship- houses. Probably on the shores of Cantharus was the armoury of Philo. The remainder of the harbour, about two-thirds of the whole, was called Emporium, and was appropriated to I merchant vessels. The surrounding shore, also called Emporium, con¬ tained five stose or colonnades, pro¬ bably all devoted to mercantile pur¬ poses. One was called Macra Stoa, or long colonnade; another Deigma Stoa, where merchants exhibited samples of their goods; a third Alphitopolis, or Corn Exchange, said to be built by Pericles; the names of the other two are not known. Between the stoae of the Emporium and Cantharus was the Aphrodisium, or Temple of Venus,built by Conon, after his victory at Cnidus. The site of Munychia, the Acropolis of Piraeus, has been already explained ; remains of its fortifications may be seen on the top of the hill, called Ka«-- rlxxa., which rises above the harbour of Phanari. It commands the whole promontory and the three harbours. Soon after the close of the Pelopon¬ nesian war, the seizure of Munychia by Thrasybulus enabled him to carry on operations against the Thirty Ty rants who held the Asty. A Macedonian garrison placed there by the successors of Alexander secured the obedience of Athens. Antipater placed the first garrison there in b.c. 322; Cassander followed. Demetrius Poliorcetes ex¬ pelled the garrison of Cassander, but left one of his own in its stead. The latter was expelled by Olympiodorus; finally Aratus purchased the departure of the Macedonian garrison. Strabo speaks of the hill Munychia as well adapted for dwelling - houses, and abounding in excavations; for in his time the whole of the Piraeus was in ruins. The sides of the hill, slopingdown to the great harbour, appear to have been covered with houses rising above Northern Greece, route 2 . —axc one another in the form of an amphi¬ theatre, as in the city ot Rhodes, 'which was celebrated for its beauty, and laid out by the same architect,Hippodamus. Within the fortress of Munychia was a temple of the guardian deity Artemis Munychia, a celebrated asylum for state criminals. On the western slope was the Dionysiac Theatre. There are | some remains of a small circus to the N. The Agora, called the Hippoda- | meian Agora, stood towards the N.; | we must suppose that this was chiefly used for public business, for the Macra I Stoa was also used as an agora, aud was much more convenient for mer- ! eantile business. The Hippodameian j Agora stood near the spot where the long walls joined the wall of Pir*us, and a broad street led up from it to the citadel of Munychia. Some re¬ mains of a kind of forum of no great size, with stone-posts arranged in the form of a quadrangle, are to be seen \ there. On the wes:ern height, that on the right hand of the entrance to the large harbour, on the summit of which ) are two windmills, are a great number of quarries of the soft shelly limestone so much used in the Athenian struc¬ tures. It is reported that some Si¬ cilian captives were confined in these quarries in retaliation for the sufferings of the Athenians in the quarries at Syracuse, and that owing to the soft¬ ness of the stone they worked their ■way out and escaped. The promon¬ tory at the right hand of the entrance to the great harbour was called Alci- mus, where stood the tomb of Themis- tocles, whose bones were brought from Magnesia, in Asia Minor, and buried here on the shore of the Gulf of Sala- mis, the scene of his glory. Mr. Woods thus describes the reputed site (p. 271): “ We crossed over from the port to what is called the Tomb of Themis- tocles, but there are many difficulties in the way of our belief. A level sur¬ face, now frequently covered by the sea, was cut in the rocks, and on it was raised a lofty Ionic column. This has been overthrown, but pieces of the shaft remain, and even of the capital. Close to the place where it stood some [EXT ATHENS.—PiR.EUS, ETC. 201 oblong sepulchres are cut in the rock. In these, as in many of the tombs about Athens, there is a sort of double grave; a deep groove separating the immediate receptacle of the body from the rest of the rock.” Eetionia was the tongue of land on the left of the entrance. Leake supposes it to have been the arsenal : it was very strongly fortified. The Four Hundred erected here a fort in 411 b.c., to prevent the entrance of the Athe¬ nian fleet which was opposed to them. The small bay N. of it was probably the Kufo; Xitirii mentioned by Xenophon. Phreatlys, one of the courts of justice for the trial of homicides, was near the harbour Zea. The accused pleaded their cause on board ship, while the judges sat on shore. . Piraeus never recovered from the destruction of its fortifications and arsenal by Sylla. In Strabo’s time it had become a small village, situated around the ports and the temple of Zeus Soter. At the present day the harbour of the Pira?us is very safe and deep, and there may sometimes be seen anchored in it together three or four foreign line- of-battle ships or frigates, besides a host of merchant ships, and the small trad¬ ing craft of the country. The only difficulty is in entering between the two ancient moleheads. The modern town of Piraeus has sprung up entirely since 1834. It now contains some good houses and capacious stores, and one or two small inns, which should, however, be avoided by all who can take up their quarters at Athens. The carriage road to the capital is about 5 miles long, and follows the line of the most northern of the Long II alls, of which the foundations are still visible. On the right of the road, about mile from the Pirams, a monument has been erected to the gallant chief Karaiskak;, j and the other Greeks who fell in action with the Turks in 1827, when the Greek army,under Sir Richard Church, failed in the endeavour to relieve the j besieged Acropolis of Athens. (See ■ Gordon’s History erf the Greek Revolu- \ tiou, book vii. chap. 2.) 202 ROUTE 2 . —ANCIENT ATHENS.-ENVIRONS. Sect. II. VII. Environs of Athens. —There are numerous relics of antiquity and spots full of interesting associations in the environs of Athens. Col. Leake’s Demi of Attica will afford full information on this part of our subject. We will in particular invite the attention of the traveller to four excursions, to each of which heshould, ifpossible,devotea day. 1. Mount Pentelicus rises to the height of 3500 feet above the sea, and is about 10 miles distant from Athens. The summit can be reached on horse¬ back in 3 hours from the city; those who prefer it may drive in a carriage in li hour to the bottom of the moun¬ tain, and then ascend on foot, or on horses which they may have sent on to meet them. This mountain, bounding the plain of Athens on the E., appears to have been a part 'of the range an¬ ciently called Brilessits (Thucyd. ii. 23) ; but the celebrity of the marble quarried in the demits of Pentele, on the side of Mount Brilessus, had, before the time of Pausanias, caused the name of Pentelicus to supplant the earlier appellation. In Italian, the name is Mendeli or Penteli. The road from Athens to Pentelicus passes by the small villages of Patissia and Kalandri, and across a rich and well-cultivated plain. Lycabetlus and Parties are on the left, and Hymettus on the right. We leave at a short dis¬ tance on the left, and near the foot of Pentelicus,the large village of Cepliisia, which still retains the name of the an¬ cient demus on the same site. It is 9 miles N.E. of Athens, and was the fa¬ vourite summer residence of Herodes Atticus, who adorned it with buildings, gardens, and statues. The copious fountains and shady groups of trees at Cephisia still render it the chief retreat of the modern Athenians during the heats of summer. There are some foundations and other vestiges of an¬ tiquity at Cephisia; and its fountains are the principal sources of the Ce- phissus, which is the chief river of Attica, and flows through the gardens and groves of the Academy to the Bay of Salamis. In summer it is often nearly dry, as is also the Ilissus, the stream to the S. of the city of Athens. Soon after commencing the ascent of Pentelicus, the road passes a convent, which is a convenient resting-place. The principal quarry of the famous white marble, which is now worked, is about half way up the mountain. There are several other quarries in dif¬ ferent places, all of which bear marks of the instruments used by the ancient Athenians. Near the principal quarry is a grotto, 30 feet in height and 00 feet square. The dust is literally alive with fleas in this as in most other Greek caverns, owing to their being frequently the places of retreat of shepherds and their flocks. The guides generally cau¬ tion the traveller against entering for this reason. From this spot the summit can be reached on horseback or on foot without much difficulty. The prospect is magnificent—the whole of Attica and the neighbouring shores and islands lying unrolled like a map before the eye. “ The foot of Pentelicus may be reached by a good road in a light car¬ riage in 1^ hour from Athens. The ascent from hence to the summit takes about 2 hours, over a steep slope, co¬ vered with fragments of broken marble as far as the highest quarries, whence you proceed over the mountain sides covered with rocks and brushwood. As we approached the summit of the mountain, the scenery, which charmed us during our ascent, became grand and imposing in the extreme; and from the highest rock, which crowns the mountain like some Druidical crom¬ lech on the granite Tors of Devonshire and Cornwall, the plain of Marathon and the other memorable scenes which compose the panorama opened at once upon our view. The prospect towards Marathon is remarkable for its magni¬ ficent combination of scenery. A series of undulating hills slopes gradually down from the summit of Pentelicus to the western extremity of the plain. The line of sea-coast which bounds it on the S. forms a deep semicircle, ter¬ minating at the eastern end in a long, low promontory. The brushwood which covers that part of the plain ap¬ pears to be separated near the marshy 203 Northern Greece, rocte 2.—AN( shore, leaving a light line, in the centre of-which the celebrated tumulus marks the sepulchre of the Athenians slain in the battle. Beyond all this the horizon is bounded by the long and singularly broken outline of Euboea, retiring into beautiful bays, or advancing into pro¬ montories, around -which numerous small islets are scattered. The view is both remarkable and magnificent, and its interest is perhaps increased by com¬ parison with the prospect to the west¬ ward of the mountain, commanding the whole plain of Athens, the Acropolis, and the distant islands of Salamis and iEgina.”— Bleicitt. 2. Mount Hymeitits, which bounds the plaiu of Athens on the S.E., affords an agreeable excursion, and the traveller can ride very nearly, if not quite, to the highest point, which is 350'i ft. above the sea-level. The view from this point is very extensive; but if the traveller has not time to ascend both mountains, he should prefer Pentelicus. The range of Hymettus is separated from that of Pentelicus by a depression about 2 m. in length; and Mount Hymettus itself is separated by a remarkable break into two parts, the northern or greater Hy- mettus ( Trdo-vuno*) and the southern or lesser Hymettus (Mavro-vuno), which formerly bore also the name of Anhy- drus, or the Waterless. The main branch of the Ilissus rises at the northern extremity of Hymettus, and receives near the Lyceum, on the E. side of Athens, the Eridanus, a smaller rivu¬ let, rising on the western slope of Hy¬ mettus at a spot called Syriani. The united stream then flows towards the Phaleric Bay; but it scarcely ever reaches the sea, and in the neighbour¬ hood of Athens it is always dry in the summer. The spreading plane-trees and the shady banks of the Ilissus, immor¬ talized by the beautiful description in the Fhadrus of Plato, have been suc¬ ceeded by sun-burnt rocks and stunted * This vulgar name of Hymettus will give an example of the havoc created by the Italians among Greek names of places. Mount Hymet¬ tus is, in correct Italian, Monte Imetto; this came to be corrupted into Monte Motto, which ap¬ pellation was re-translated literally into TpeAo- Povvo, the Romaic for Mad Mountain. MEAT ATHENS.—ENVIRONS. bushes. The Fountain of Calhrrkoe or Enneacrunus has been already described. The sourceat Syridni is a beautiful spot, and is apparently that celebrated in the passage of Ovid (Hr. Am. iii. 087), beginning— “ Est prope purpureos colies florentis Hymetti Fons sacer, et viridi ccspite mollis humus." The slopes of Mount Hymettus and the declivities at the foot of it furnish advantageous positions for villages; and we find accordingly the vestiges of several derni in this situation (see Leake’s Demi, § 2). Above the mo¬ dern hamlet of Kara in a retired hollow, just below the highest summit of Hy¬ mettus, on the S., is a small convent, which is a convenient resting-place on the ascent. Near this spot may be ob¬ served some traces of the quarries of the white and grey stone which w-as so much worked by the Homans. It appears also from Pliny that Hymettus pos¬ sessed mines of silver, and vestiges of some of the shafts may still be seen. “All these works ceased with the Roman government; but nature remains the same; the bees continue to extract its natural riches from the surface of Hy¬ mettus, and produce from the fragrant herbs of its dry and scanty soil the ex¬ cellent honey for which the mountain was anciently renowned. Nonnus, an Egyptian poet, and Synesius, a bishop of the Cyrenaica, have recorded the fame of the Attic honey in the 5th cen¬ tury, when little else could be said of Athens ; it is still superior to that of the surrounding provinces of Greece, and the Hymettian apiaries are re¬ puted to furnish the best in Attica.”— Leake. The Grotto in the southern extremity of Hymettus, near Bari (the ancient Anagyrus , is described in Route 3. .3. Phyle. —Among the other excur- I sions in the environs of Athens, that to Phyle deserves to be strongly recom¬ mended to all who can give a day to it, on account of the magnificence of the scenery as well as the historical associa¬ tions. Phyle is situated about 12 or 13 miles N.W. of Athens, and near the summit of the most central of the three chief passes which lead over Mt. 204 ROUTE 2. -ANCIENT ATHENS.—ENVIRONS. Sect. II. Parnes from Attica into Bceotia. The 1 western pass is that by Eleusis and Eleutherae, and the eastern that by Decelea. The excursion from Athens to Phyle and back need not occupy more than 7 or 8 hours. Or the tra¬ veller may proceed to Thebes by this route. He may drive in a light car¬ riage as far as the foot of Parnes; but the rest of the journey must be per¬ formed on horseback. The road from Athens passes north¬ ward of the Academy, crosses the Cephissus, and then passes at a little distance from the large village of Menidhi, which Leake believes to be the site of the ancient demus of Pwonidoe (the conversion of n into M being fre¬ quent in Komaic), though it is more commonly identified with the ancient Achamce, which certainly stood in this neighbourhood. There are some Hel¬ lenic remains three quarters of a mile to the W. of Menidhi, but the exact position of the important town of Acharnae is not certainly known. The name is familiar, from one of the plays of Aristophanes bearing the name of Acharnians. It was from the woods of the neighbouring Parnes that the Acharnians were enabled to carry on that trade in charcoal for which they were noted of old, and which is now pursued by the inhabitants of the vil¬ lage of Chassia, in the pass of Phyle, standing probably on the site of the demus Chastieis (XutmtTs). The ancient Acharnae possessed a fertile territory; its population was rough and warlike ; and it furnished at the commencement of the Peloponnesian War 3000 hop- lites, or a tenth of the whole infantry of the Athenian Commonwealth. Leaving the plain, the road to Thebes, by Phyle, enters a rugged mountain defile ; it passes the village of Chassia ; and, as it gradually ascends, the scenery continues to increase in wild beauty. Above Chassia, the first traces of the great care with which this important pass was fortified by the Athenians, are the foundations of a tower at the junction of a bye-road which leads on the right to the Monastery of the Holy Trinity, and from thence to Tatoe, or Decelea, at the beginning of the eastern pass over Mt. Parnes (fioute 7). At a few minutes’ distance short of Phyle, we meet with the foundations of another ancient tower. The castle of Phyle stands upon a precipitous rock, which can only be approached by a ridge on the eastern side; a very strong position (x a f‘ ot hrxvoiv), as Xenophon (Hellen. ii. 4) has remarked, and which Thrasybulus, with his gallant band of 70 exiles, might well maintain against all the assaults of the forces of the Thirty Tyrants. The whole circuit of the ancient walls still remains; and, in some places, is of considerable height, are tenanted only by goatherds with their flocks. The paths to the two gates exemplify the mode in which the Greeks managed the approaches to their fortifications, so as to oblige the enemy to expose the right side of his body, which was that unprotected by the shield. Phyle is memorable in the annals of Greece as the place first seized by Thrasybulus and his com¬ rades in B.c. 404, and from which they ] commenced the operations which ended in the restoration of liberty to Athens. Byron’s fine apostrophe will be read with interest on this spot:— “ Spirit of Freedom ! when from Phyle's brow Thou sat'st with Thrasybulus and.his train," &c. &c. Leake says: “The pass being very narrow, was effectually defended by this small fortress; which, connected as it is with one of the most remarkable events in Athenian history, furnishes the most interesting accompaniment that can be imagined to the magnificent view w 7 hich the Castle commands of the Plain of Athens, the City, Mount Hymettus, and the Saronic Gulf.” Beyond Phyle, towards the summit of the ridge of Parnes, and to the left of the modern path, are the ruins of another fortress, which Leake identifies with Hanna. The highest points of Mount Parnes lie betvreen the passes of Phyle and Decelea; one of the summits rises to the height of 4193 feet. The road into Boeotia, after passing the W. Northern Greece, route 2. —ancient Athens.—environs. 20o of the ridge, descends into a stony upland plain, -which appears to have been the frontier district of Panactum, long a Debateable Land between the Boeotians and Athenians. Thence the road descends into the great plain of Bceotia, across which it leads to Thebes (Route 4). 4. Pass of Daphne, Elensis, &c.— A carriage road leads from Athens to Thebes bv Eleusis. The traveller should drive as far as Eleusis, or at least to the Pass of Daphne; so the defile in Mount vEgaleos, affording communication between the Athenian and Eleusiuian (or Thriasian) plains, is now called—perhaps from a grove of sacred laurel (, which may have been a remarkable feature of the pass. It is the ancient Pcecilum. The road from Athens crosses the Cephissus and the olive groves on its banks, and pro¬ bably follows the same line as the ancient Sacred Way along which the processions moved to Elensis, and of which some traces are still visible in several localities. An insulated hill, crowned by a church of St. Elias, stands a little in advance of the pass towards Athens, and is remarkable for its con¬ spicuous position and form. The pass itself is a narrow rocky gorge between two summits of iEgaleos: it is very important in a military point of view, as it forms the direct approach to Athens from the Peloponnesus, and at the same time is very easily defensible by art. Hence there may be traced in this pass remains of fortifications of various epochs, from ancient Hellenic towers down to the rude breastworks of loose stones erected during the recent Greek War of Independence. Looking back from the entrance of the defile, there is a fine view of Athens, its plain, and the surrounding mountains. (See Route 11.) At the western extremity of a level which forms the narrowest and highest part of the pass, stands the Monastery of Daphne, now partly in ruins. Both the church and the enclosing walls are built for the most part of squared blocks of marble, which had formed part of some Hellenic building, doubtless the Temple of Apollo, mentioned by Pau- sanias. Immured in one of the walls of the church there were formerly three fluted Ionic columns, which were re¬ moved by Lord Elgin in 1 SO 1; the capitals of these columns, a base, and a part of one of the shafts, are now in the British Museum. Beyond the Temple of Apollo was a Temple of Venus, 1 of which the foundations remain at the distance of less than a mile from Daphne. Doves of white marble have been dis¬ covered at the foot of the rocks; and in the inscriptions still visible under the niches, the words 47x>i may be read. Remains may also be observed of the “ wall of rude stones,” which Pausanias mentions, in front of this temple. As you descend the pass, a glorious prospect opei.s of the Bay of Eleusis, which appears to be a lake, being com¬ pletely landlocked by the island of Salamis and the opposite coasts and mountains. It is a delightful day’s ex¬ cursion to ride thus far from Athens, and then to turn to the left and reach the Piraeus, keeping close to the shore of the Gulf, and immediately under the slopes of Mount JEgaleos. You will thus pass by the narrow strait where the Battle of Salamis was fought, and under the “rocky brow” which is identified by tradition with the seat of Xerxes during the engagement. The islet at the entrance of the Bay r is Psyttalea, which was occupied by a Persian de¬ tachment. From the bottom of the pass of Daphne, the ancient Sacred Way and the modern carriage-road to Eleusis, cross the Thriasian Plain, so called from the ancient demus of Thria. Close to the sea,' near the end of the defile, may be observed the Pheiti {'Yurol), or salt-springs, which once formed the boundary between the Athenians and the Eleusinians, and now turn a mill. Half a mile beyond the Rheiti was the Tomb of Strato, of which some ruins still remain. “ Among the many beautiful bays which adorn the winding shores of Greece, there is none more remarkable than that of Eleusis. Formed on the eastern, northern, and western sides by a noble sweep of the Attic coast, it is closed on the S. by the 206 ROUTE 2. -ANCIENT ATHENS.-ENVIRONS. Sect. II. northern shore of the island of Salarais. which being separated only from the mainland at either end by a narrow toi’tuous channel, has the appearance of being a continuation of the moun¬ tains of Attica which surround the other sides of the amphitheatre, and thus the Bay in every direction resembles a beautiful lake. For modern purposes, however, the Bay of Salami s is more useful as a harbour.”— Leake. The island of Salamis is mostly rugged and barren, but some parts of it are well suited for the vine and olive, and the honey is abundant and excellent. This island has always in historical times been a dependency of Attica, though it was originally colonized from iEgina. Traces of the ancient city may be ob¬ served near the modern Ampelakia. The village of Kvluri, and one or two small hamlets, contain the present scanty population of the island which Homer records to have sent 12 ships to the Trojan War. Eleusis is still a considerable village. The ancient city dated from the most early times, and is supposed to have derived its name from the advent (fAst/m) of Ceres, who, with Proserpine, was worshipped here with annual pro¬ cessions and. the celebrated Elensinian Mysteries. “ Eleusis was built at the eastern end of a low rocky height, a mile in length, which lies parallel to the sea-shore, and is separated to the W. from the falls of Mount Kerata by a narrow branch of the plain. The eastern extremity of the hill was levelled artificially for the reception of the Hierum of Demeter (Ceres) and the other sacred buildings. Above these are the ruins of an Acropolis. (Cas- tellum, quod et imminet, et circum- datum est templo.— Livy, xxxi. 25.) A triangular space of about 500 yards each side, lying between the hill and the shore, was occupied by the town of Eleusis. On the eastern side, the town wall is traced along the summit of an artificial embankment, carried across the marshy ground from some heights near the Hierum, on one of which stands a castle (built during the middle ages of the Byzantine empire). This wall, according to a common practice in the military architecture of the Greeks, was prolonged into the sea, so as to form a mole sheltering a harbour, which was entirely artificial, and was formed by this and two other longer moles which project about 100 yards into the sea. There are many remains of -walls and buildings along the shore, as well as in other parts of the town and citadel; but they are mere foundations, the Hierum alone preserving any considerable re¬ mains.”— Leake. Upon approaching Eleusis from Athens, the first conspicuous object is a dilapidated pavement, terminating in some heaps of ruins, which are the re¬ mains of a propylacum, of very nearly the same plan and dimensions as that of the Acropolis of Athens. Before it, near the middle of a platform cut in the rock, are the ruins of a small temple, 40 feet long and 20 broad, which was undoubtedly the temple of Artemis Propyla:a. The peribolus which abutted on the propylaeum, formed the exterior inclosure of the Hierum. At a dis¬ tance of 50 feet from the propylacum was the north-eastern angle of the inner inclosure, which was in shape an irre¬ gular pentagon. Its entrance was at the angle just mentioned, where the rock was cut away both horizontally and vertically to receive another pro- pylseum much smaller than the former, and which consisted of an opening 32 feet wide between two parallel walls of 50 feet in length. Towards the inner extremity, this opening was nar¬ rowed by transverse walls to a gateway of 12 feet in width. Near this spot lay, until the year 1801, the colossal bust of Pentelic marble, crowned with a basket, which is now deposited in the public library at Cambridge. It has been supposed to be a fragment of the statue of the Goddess Ceres, adored in the great temple of Eleusis; but some antiquarians consider it to have been rather that of a Cistophorus, serving for some architectural decoration, like the Caryatides of the Erechtheum. The temple of Ceres itself was the largest in all Greece, and was designed by Icti¬ nus, the architect of the Parthenon. Its site is occupied by the centre of the modern village, in consequence of which Northern Greece. ROUTE 3. -ATHENS TO SUNIUM. 207 it is impossible to investigate all the details of the building. Eleusis has in ail ages been exposed to inundations from the ( Eleusinian Cephissus, which, though dry during summer, is some¬ times swollen in winter to such an extent as to spread itself over a large part of the plain. The Roman Emperor | Hadrian raised some embankments near Eleusis, of which the mounds are still visible; and most probably it is to the same Emperor that Eleusis was in¬ debted for a supply of good water by means of the aqueduct, the ruins of which are still seen stretching across the plain from Eleusis in a north¬ easterly direction. From Eleusis a carriage-road pro¬ ceeds to Megara, whence there are two horse-tracks, one along the mountain ridge, and the other near the sea, both of which lead to Corinth (Route 11). The carriage-road from Athens to Thebes leaves the sea at Eleusis, and mounts, by a narrow and very pic¬ turesque gorge, over Mount Cithseron —a continuation of the range of Parnes. The Khan of Casa is a convenient rest¬ ing-place, about 2 hours from Eleusis. This pass from Attica into Bceotia was known in antiquity by the name of the Three Heads, as the Boeotians called it, or the Oak’s Heads, according to the Athenians (Herod, ix. 38). On the Attic side the defile was guarded by a strong fortress, of which the ruins form a conspicuous object on the summit of a height above the road. They now bear the name of Ghyphto-castro, or Gipsy Castle, a name frequently given to such buildings by the Greek peasants, j It was long the fashion to identify these ! remains with those of the ancient Eleutherce, but Leake believes Ghyphto- castro to be the site of CEnoe, and that Eleutherse was situated at Myupoli, about 4 m. to the S E. From the summit of the pass there is an extensive prospect over the plain of Bceotia. To the left of the northern entrance are theruins of Plataa; whence it is 6 or 7 m. across the plain to Thebes. (See Route 4.) ROUTE 3. TOUR IN ATTICA. ATHENS TO SUNIUM. The name of Attica is probably de¬ rived from Acte (aix-v), as being a pro¬ jecting peninsula, in the same manner as the peninsula of Mount Athos was also called Acte. Attica would thus be a corruption of Actica (a m*r, for I It is in the form of a triangle, | having two of its sides washed by the sea, and its base separated from Boeotia by the lofty ranges of Cithseron and Panics. Attica was divided by the an¬ cient writers into 4 principal districts : — 1. The Highlands (Amseuz), the N.E. of the country, containing the range of Parnes and the little plain of Marathon. 2. The Plain (ro IliSiov), including both the plain round Athens, and the plain round Eleusis. 3. The Midland (Ms vo- yam), the undulating plain in the | middle of the country, bounded by Pentelicus on the N., by Hymettus on | the W., and the sea on the E. 4. The ! Sea-coast (UaoaXia), the S. part of the J country, terminating in Sunium. The soil of Attica is thin, and not very fer¬ tile. Little corn is grown, but it pro- ! duces olives and figs in great perfection. The abundance of wild flowers has made the honey of Attica equally famous in ancient and in modem times. Throughout the many vicissitudes of all else around, the bees of Hymettus have retained their former glory :— Stat fortuna domfis, et avi numerantur avorum. For the general topography of Attica, and of the 174 demi, or townships, into which it was divided of old, see Leake’s Demi of Attica, and the article ‘ Attica ’ in Smith’s Dictionary of An. Geog. There are two modes of visiting the temple of Sunium, one by Bari, the other by Keratia. Sunium may he visited in one long day from Athens, by I going to Keratia in a carriage, which occupies 3 hours, and riding from thence to Sunium (horses having been sent from Athens the previous day), in 3 hours more. If the traveller goes to Sunium by Bari and Lagrona, he may 208 ROUTE 3. -ATHENS TO SUNIUM. Sect. II. return by Thoricos, Keratia, Port Raphti, and Vrana. He will find means of sleeping at Keratia (about 3 or 4 hours N. of Sunium), which, though a small village, is so much better than Lagrona or Elympos, the only sleeping places on the S. coast, that it might be worth while to make Keratia his sleep¬ ing-place both nights, and visit the grotto of Bari in an excursion from Athens, going and returning the same day. It is easy to perform the trip to Sunium in 2 days, by going in a car¬ riage to within 3 hours of the Temple, having horses sent on the previous day, and sleeping at Keratia. Bari, the ancient Anagyrus, is 12 miles from Athens, i an hour from the village, but not to be found without a guide, is a natural subterranean cave in Mount Ilymettus. It is entered by a descent of a few stone steps, from which access the interior is dimly lighted : it is vaulted with fretted stone, and the rocky roof is gracefully hung with sta¬ lactites. There are some ancient in¬ scriptions engraved on the rock near the entrance. From one of these we learn that the grotto was sacred to the nymphs. Another similar inscription admits the sylvan Pan and the rural Graces to a share in the same residence. The pastoral Apollo is likewise united with them in another sentence of the same kind. The Attic shepherd, to whose labour the cave was indebted for its simple furniture, is also mentioned in other inscriptions here. His figure, too, dressed in the short shepherd’s tunic (/Wt«), and with a hammer and chisel in his hands, with which he is chipping the side of the cave, is rudely sculptured on its rocky wall. 3 hours from Bari, and as far from Sunium, is Lagrona* The country is most desolate, scarcely any vestiges re¬ maining of the towns and villages which once covered the soil. The route was the high road from Athens to Laurium. By it the silver ore, which had been dug from the Larndan mines by the labour of several thousand slaves, was * Ldgrona is probably a corruption from Aavpiov, like Egripo from’Ei>puros. carried to the city, and thence issued to circulate through the whole civilised world. The stony road is deeply worn by the tracks of the wheels which then rolled along it, groaning with their pre¬ cious freight. In some places, for a considerable distance, the wheels have worked deep grooves in the rock, and the hills are still covered with scoriae from the smelting of the metal. The road is now a mere mule-path. It is probably the ancient Sphettian way. At Lagrona is a small hamlet. “ The Temple of Sunium is about 5 miles to the S. of Lagrona. Standing above the shore on a high rocky penin¬ sula, its white columns are visible at a | great distance from the sea. There is | something very appropriate in the , choice of this position for a temple de- ! cheated to the tutelary goddess of the Athenian soil. Minerva thus appeared to stand ha the vestibule of Attica. The same feeling which placed her statue at the gate of the citadel of Athens erected her temple here.”— Wordsworth. Twelve columns of the temple and a pilaster of the cella are still standing, all surmounted by their architrave. They are of the Doric order, and have 16 flutings. The promontory of Sunium was called Cape Colonna by the Italians, from the pillars of the temple. The classical scholar will call to mind oia this spot the apostrophe in the choi'us of Sophocles’ Ajax , thus imitated by Lord Byron:— Place me on Sunium's marbled steep. Where nothing save the waves and I May hear our mutual murmurs sweep ; There swan-like let me sing and die ! On a hill to the N.E. of the Penin¬ sula on which the temple stands are extensive vestiges of an ancient build¬ ing, probably the Temple of Neptune. Sunium was also the principal fortress of this district, while Athens remained independent. After that period it rapidly sank into decay— Save where some solitary column mourns Above Us prostrate brethren of the cave; Save where Tritonia's airy shrine adorns Colonna's cliff, and gleams along the wave; Save o'er some warrior's half-forgotten grave, Where the gray stones and unmolested grass Ages, but not oblivion, feebly brave, "While strangers only not regardless pass, Lingering like me, perchance, to gaze, and sigh, “Alas!" Tet are thy skies as blue, thy crags as wild ; Sweet are thy groves, and verdant are thy ! fields. Thine olive ripe as when Minerva smiled, And still his honied wealth Hymettus yields ; There the blithe bee his fragrant fortress builds, The freeborn wanderer of thy mountain air ; Apollo still thy long, long summer gilds. Still in his beam Mendeli's marbles glare ; Art, Glory, Freedom fail, but Nature still is fair. Btron. About 5 m. to the N.E. of Sunium J there are some remains of an ancient j theatre at Thoricos. The harbour below, ] now called Port Mandri, is an excellent j port of refuge, being sheltered by the Long Island (Maoris), or Helena (see ; Sect. III.). Keratia is 6 miles N. W. of Thoricos. Proceeding in a N.E. direction, and leaving the village of Markopulo on the left, we reach Port j Baphti, a good harbour, the port of the ancient Prasiee, of which there are some slight vestiges. It is one hour farther to the hamlet of Braona, the I ancient Brauron, of which there are also remains. Markopulo, where there j is a good sleeping place, is only 1 hour | from Braona, and is placed in the \ centre of the district, which retains its old name of Mesogcea, or Midland. Markopulo is 6 hours from Athens. The traveller may return thither direct, or he may proceed northward to Mara¬ thon, entering the plain from the S., as the Athenian army did before the battle. ROUTE 4. ATHENS TO LAMIA (ZEITUX) BY MAEA- THON, THEBES, DELPHI, &C. Athens to— Hrs. Marathon.7 Kalentzi.li Capandriti.1) Inia.5£ Skimatari.2 Thebes.5 Platsea.2 209 Ilrs. Leuctra.2 Hieron of the Muses on Helicon 2 Zagora.2 Kutomula.2 Lebadea . 4 Kapurna (Chseronea) .... 2 Scripu (Orchomenus) .... 2 Back to Lebadea — Lebadea to Chrvso . . . . 8* Castri (Delphi) .... Arachova. . . 2 Summit of Parnassus . . . . 4i Monastery of the Virgin . . . 4* Haghia Marina .... . . H Velitza. . . 1 Dadi. . . 2 Budonitza. . . 3 Polvandrium of the Greeks who fell at Thermopylae . . . . 1 Thermopylae. Zeitun (Lamia) .... . . 2i From Athens to Marathon is about !2 miles, or 7 hours. It is possible to '0 to Marathon and return to Athens in one day, by taking a carriage out to Cephisia, whither horses can be sent on. This is by far the best plan. Everybody should descend to the plain of Marathon by the village of V ran.i, situated just at the foot of M ount Pen- telicus on the plain, and leave it by the village of Marathona, situated farther N. The descent to the plain of Marathon by Vrana is much finer than by the village of Marathona, and at the former place a room can be obtained in one of the cottages. After leaving Cephisia, the road lies through a hilly country to the village of Stamata, 5 hours from Athens. Hence the road to Vrana (1 hour) turns to the right. If the traveller | prefer that by Marathona, he descends i by an old paved road, with the sea in view, whence, crossing a rocky hill, the hamlet of Marathona appears, situated in a beautiful plain below, by the side j of the river Charadrus. In front— I Preserves alike its bounds and boundless fame The battle-field, where Persia’s victim horde , I First bow’d beneath the brunt of Hellas’ sword, Nortfarn Greece, route 4 . —Athens to lamia (zeitux). 1 210 ROUTE 4. -ATHENS TO LAMIA.-MARATHON. Sect. IT. As on the morn to distant Glory dear, When Marathon became a magic word; Which utter'd, to the hearer's eye appear The camp, the host, the tight, the conqueror’s career. Byron. Some, remains near Vrana probably mark the site of the ancient demus of Marathon. The mountain behind the modern village commands a fine view of the plain. Upon the right are Pentelicus and the more distant summits of Attica to¬ wards Sunium. In front lies the plain, intersected in its whole breadth by the river Charadrus. At the S. extremity of the plain, towards the sea, is the conspicuous mound raised over the bodies of the Athenians who fell in the memorable battle against the Persians. On the left appears the Marathonian shore, where the Persians landed; and close to the shore is a marsh, where may still be found the remains of trophies and monuments. Beyond all this is the sea, showing the station of the Persian fleet, and the distant head¬ lands of Euboea and Attica, If he enter the plain from the N.,— proceeding from Marathona to the right, and at the foot of the mountains, the traveller arrives at Vrana , by which village another route from Athens de¬ scends into the plain of Marathon. Of the various monuments mentioned by Pausanias as still existing on the plain when he visited it, none are now extant; but the foundations and debris of two buildings, of ancient Greek masonry, form piles not far distant from the convent of Vrana, at the foot of the gorge. The Tomb of the Athenians has been the subject of much controversy, but the account of Pausanias is so clear and decisive as to leave no doubt of this mound being the tomb of the 192 Athenians who fell in the battle. No monument marks the graves of the Persian dead. The mountains look on Marathon— And Marathon looks on the sea;— And musing there an hour alone, I dream’d that Greece might still be free; For, standing on the Persian's grave, I could not deem myself a slave. Byron. The plain of Marathon, situated near to a bay on the E. coast of Attica, and E.N.E. from Athens, is separated by the ridge of Pentelicus from the city, with which it communicated by two roads, one to the N., and the other to the S. of that mountain. By the latter the Athenian army marched from the city, and took up a position near the S. extremity of the plain. The bay of Marathon, sheltered by a projecting cape from the N., affords both deep water aud a shore convenient of access. We learn, too, from Herodotus that the plain of Marathon was selected as a landing-place, because it was the most convenient spot in Attica for cavalry movements. “ The plain,” writes Mr. Pinlay, “ extends in a perfect level along this fine bay, and is in length about 6 miles, in breadth never less than I5 mile. Two marshes bound the extremities of the plain; the southern is not very large, aud is al¬ most dry at the conclusion of the great heats ; but the northern, which gene¬ rally covers considerably more than a square mile, offers several parts which are at all seasons impassable. Both, however, leave a broad, fine, and sandy beach between them and the sea. The uninterrupted flatness of the plain is hardly relieved by a single tree; and an amphitheatre of rugged hills and rocky mountains separates it from the rest of Attica,” The numbers that fought B.C. 490, in this first great victory of opinion— for such was Marathon—cannot be de¬ termined ; but we may calculate that about 10,000 Athenians and Plataeans routed and drove to their ships at least ten times their own number of Asiatics. The loss of the Persians is stated by Herodotus at 6400, that of the Greeks at 192. The Persians secured a safe re-embarkation, though after a despe¬ rate struggle on the beach. From Marathona to Thebes is 15J hours. The road separates from the one leading to Athens at a mill where there are remains of an aqueduct. It then ascends a part of Mount Parnes. Along the course of the Charadrus the Northern Greece. ROUTE 4.—THEBES TO TLAT/EA. 211 scenery becomes extremely wild and ' picturesque, and as the road ascends, it assumes a bolder though less beautifid character. The island of Ceos, with the opposite promontory and the coast of Euboea, are now seen, and farther on a widely extended prospect over the Boeotian plain. Near the highest part of this route is the village of Kalentzi, 14 hour from Marathona. The road descends hence to a village picturesquely situated in a valley adorned with beautifid trees, and surrounded by mountains and stupendous rocks. Thence through a fertile valley it passes ' the village of Capandriti , 3 hours from Marathona. Some have believed CEnoe to have oc¬ cupied the site of either Kalentzi or Capandriti. Half an hour further the traveller enters a defile, and for 2 hours rides along a truly Alpine pass, where the scenery is sublime. Thence the road descends to the spacious plain of Ta- nagra, in which was the city of Oropus, about 3 miles from the sea. It is still called Oropo. A ride of 5^- hours from Capandriti brings the traveller to Inia, a village situated on an emi¬ nence. It is partly in ruins, but has a tower and some houses remaining or rebuilt. The road continues hence over the plain of Boeotia, where the ruins of houses, &e. prove that this was once a populous district. At the farther ex¬ tremity of the plain is a noble view of the Euripus. Skimatari is 2 hours from Inia, or 1()} 2 from Marathona. From Skimatari to Thebes is 5 hours, or about 15 m. 1 hour after leaving Skimatari , the vil- lage of Bratzi is on the left. Leaving the plain of Bratzi, and crossing an eminence, the road enters the noble plain of Thebes. Among the mountains which surround the plain, Parnassus, Helicon, and Cithscron are conspicuous. Thebes is situated on one of an in¬ sulated group of hills having a height on every side of it except the N., where it looks towards the hill of the Sphynx. It contains several khans. Strangely as have vanished from all the cities of an¬ cient Greece, Athens excepted,the monu¬ ments of former magnificence and civili¬ sation, from no one have they so com¬ pletely disappeared as from Thebes. A few scattered and disjointed columns of rare marbles testify that a city of wealth had once existed here ; but there is no form or feature of an edifice of older date than a large uninteresting Turkish tower of patchwork masonry, reared where probably once stood the Cad- mean citadel, or than a ruined Christian church, which has evidently robbed other buildings of their ornaments. The rich Boeotian plain, which offers such golden retimis to the agriculturist, is now depopulated and uncultivated. For miles around Thebes no village greets the eye, and Thebes itself is but a poor town. Dirce is the stream on the W., Ismenus that on the E. of Thebes. A carriage road, about 40 miles long, now leads from Thebes to Athens by Eleusis, and through a picturesque gorge of Mount Citlueron. After leaving the plain of Thebes this road is excellent. It passes below the fine and very per¬ fect remains of the ancient fort of Eleu- therae (Gryphto Castro). It has also been completed from Thebes to Lebadea, and in summer it is practicable in a carriage to that town. Another inte¬ resting road from Thebes to Athens is that by Phylc; but it can be performed only on horseback. The isolated hill on which the present town stands recalls the features of the Cadmean citadel; and the name of Thebes is still what it was in the time of Cadmus. The brooks which flow at its foot are identified with the streams of Dirce and Ismenus, great in history and poetry, when all the mighty rivers of Europe and America were still nameless. The road from Thebes to Platsea is only 6 miles, across rich corn-fields and pas¬ ture-lands, unbroken by hedges or di¬ visions. Platiea was in ruins 2000 years ago, when the comic poet Posidippus said that all it could boast was “ two temples, a portico, and its glory.” From Thebes to Platcea, 2 hours. The whole of this part of the plain through which the Asopus flows, is 212 ROUTE 4 . -THEBES TO PLAT/EA.-LEUCTRA. Sect. II. still called Platana. The Asopus rises at the foot of Mount Citheeron. The site of Platsea is now untenanted ; the walls may yet be traced in all their cir¬ cuit, and the Acropolis is very distinct. The masonry of this is excellent, and probably is of the date of Alexander the Great, who rebuilt the walls, and re-es- j tablished the city subsequent to its de¬ struction by the Thebans at, the close of the famous siege in the Peloponnesian war. Within its area are a few traces of foundations, and several broken columns of inferior dimensions and spurious architecture; there is no remnant of anything grand. On a declivity looking to the westward are several tombs and sarcophagi, but none of much beauty. The position of Platsea is on one of the lowest slopes of Cithseron,as it sinks into the fine plain of Boeotia; and it faces W.N.W. looking towards Parnassus. It commands a good view over the whole of Boeotia, and every manoeuvre in the battle of Leuctra must have been clearly seen by its anxious inhabitants. \ Near Platsea is the modern village of KoJcla. From Platsea to Athens it is one day’s journey. From the ruins of Platsea to the site of Leuctra is 2 hours, across the hills which separate the plain of Platsea from that of Leuctra , celebrated for the vic¬ tory obtained here by the Thebans under Epaminondas over a very superior force of the Spartans, in the year 371 B.C. The site is now marked by a large tumulus. From Leuctra to Lebadea there are two roads, the lower occupying 6 hours and the upper 10 hours. The lower road passes by the hamlet of Erimo- kastro, the site of Thespice, of which there are many fragmentary remains, and then falls in with the high road between Thebes and Lebadea, along the edge of the Copaic lake and under the jagged and serrated ridge of Helicon. But the most picturesque and interest¬ ing route is the upper one, over the ridges of Helicon. The road lies along the N.E. side of the mountain, and in about 2 hours from the site of Leuctra reaches the suppressed monastery of St. Nicholas, in a sheltered recess of Moiint Helicon. It is surrounded on all sides by tlie mountain ridges, one small opening alone presenting a view of a tower upon an eminence in front. An inscription on a column found in a church near this spot gives interest to the place, by proving it to have been the Fountain of Aganippe , and the famous Ilieron, or Sanctuary of the Muses. From the grove of the Muses the road descends and crosses a rivulet,and then ascends to the higher parts of Helicon. A narrow rugged path leads to the heights above Zagora , Sagara, or Sacra, whence the mountain has received its modern appel¬ lation. Here is seen a part of the ancient causeway, leading from Thespis to Le¬ badea ; the spot commands a fine pano¬ ramic view. E. by N. is the highest mountain of Euboea ; S.E. by E. Mount Pames; S.E. Mount Citheeron; the W. and S. parts are concealed by Heli¬ con. The plain of Lebadea appears through two gaps. Zagora is in a deep valley 2 hours distant from the grove of the Muses. A steep descent leads to the village, which is divided into two parts bv a river. The lower part is in the plain, and above the upper town, in a most picturesque situation, is a Monastery of the Panaghia. Zagora probably oc¬ cupies the site of Ascra, the residence of Hesiod, and is a corruption of that name. On leaving Zagora the scenery be¬ comes of the boldest character; the road ascends to a high point of Helicon, whence the eye ranges over the plains of Chseronea, Lebadea, and Orcho- menus, and over magnificent mountain scenery to Parnassus. This part of the rich plain of Boeotia supported of old a number of flourishing towns, of which four were the most eminent. They stood in a semi-circular curve, at nearly equal intervals from each other, on rising grounds which skirt the plain. The first, at (he N.E. verge of the plain, is Orchomenus; to the W. of it, at the distance of 5 miles, separated from it by the river Cephissus, and Northern Greece. ROUTE 4 . -LEBADEA. rUERONEA. 213 placed upon a steep rock of gray granite, is the elevated fortress ot Clueroneu. To the S. of Chseronea, at a similar distance, on the northern declivity ot Helicon, and on the left bank of the river Hercyna, is the citadel ot Lebodea, rising from a precipitous cliff, on the eastern foot of which lies the modern town. Passing from this to the S.E. for the same number of miles, and along the roots of Helicon, we arrive at the base of the crested summit of Coronea. Having sufficiently enjoyed this ex¬ tended prospect, the traveller will de¬ scend from the higher ridges ot Helicon, till he reaches Kutomula, a village 2 horn's distant from Zagora,and situated amidst beauti- fulscenery. Hencethe traveller descends towards the plain by the ruins of Coronea , situated on an insulated hill, at the entrance of a valley of the Helicon range. There are remains of a theatre, of a temple ot Hera, and of an agora. There is a fine view from this hill over the Boeotian plain. Hence again descending and- passing two bridges over small streams, Lebadea soon appears in view, and crossing the base ot Helicon, which extends into the plain, the traveller, in 4 hours from Kutomula, reaches Lebadea. The ancient city stood on an isolated hill, at the point where the valley of the Hercyna opens into the plain of the Copaic Lake. The modern town, before the revolution, was the most flourishing of Northern Greece, and is said to have contained 1500 houses; it is situated on the bank of the Hercyna , a fine mountain stream. Higher up the valley, occu¬ pying the site of the ancient Hieron, or sanctuary of Tropbouius, the river rushes with great force from the rocks, which here contract the valley into a narrow gorge, with scenery of the same character as that of Delphi. It is diffi¬ cult to ascertain exactly the 2 springs ; there are^bither too few or too many to answer exactly the description of the ancient writers. Immediately on the right of the gorge the rock is full of vestiges of the oracle of Trophonius, of which the most remarkable are a basin, now overgrown with weeds (like that at Delphi, commonly called the Pythia’s bath), into which flows a small spring, several small niches in the face of the rock, a large niche 4 feet high, and 2 feet deep, and a small natural aperture scareelv of sufficient depth to answer the description in Pausanias of the oracular cave. This, according to the most rea¬ sonable conjecture,is yetto be discovered within the walls of the modern castle on the top of the hill, where it may exist choked up with rubbish. The whole of the gorge is very striking, and con¬ tains several natural caverns of some size. At about 6 m. 2 hours N. from Le¬ badea, are the ruins of Ckaronea. On the site of them stands the village of Kapurna. The theatre of Chseronea was one of the most ancient in Greece, and is one of the most perfect now existing. The coilon is excavated in the rock; there is no trace of the marble covering of the seats. The Acropolis is above the theatre, and covers the top of a lofty precipice. Its remains pre¬ sent the usual mixture of Archaic and more recent Hellenic masonry. Near the theatre is an aqueduct, which sup¬ plied a beautiful antique fountain with 5 mouths. On the right hand of the aqueduct, near the theatre, is a sub¬ terranean passage, appearing to pass under the theatre. The entrance to it is like that of a well; it is 12 feet deep. The passage was probably an aqueduct. Near the fountain are some remains of a small temple. Chseronea was famous as the birth¬ place of Plutarch, who spent the later years of his life in his native town. Pausanias mentions that the principal object of veneration in his time was the sceptre of Zeus, once borne by Aga¬ memnon, and which was considered to be the undoubted work of the god Hephaestus, or Yulcan, Chseronea is not mentioned by Homer, but is sup¬ posed by some writers to be the same with the Boeotian Arne , identified by others with Coronea. The town itself does not appear to have been ever of great importance; but it has obtained 214 ROUTE 4. -CHiEROXEA.-THE MARBLE LIOX. Sect. IT. great celebrity from the battles fought in its neighbourhood, particularly from “-that dishonest victory A t Chseronea fatal to liberty,” when Philip overthrew the independ¬ ence of Greece. The position of the town commanding the entrance from Phocis into Bceotia, naturally made it the scene of military operations. In B.C. 447, an important battle, usually called after Coronea, was fought in the plain between that place and Chseronea, between the Athenians and Boeotians, when the former were defeated and lost the supremacy which they had previ¬ ously exercised over Boeotia. A second and much more memorable battle was fought at Chseronea, August 7, b.c. 338, when P hili p of Macedon, by defeat¬ ing the united forces of the Athenians and Boeotians, crushed the liberties of Greece. The lion described below is a monument of this battle. The third great battle fought at Chseronea was that in which Sulla defeated the generals of Mithridates in b.c. 86. Of this engagement there is a long account in Plutarch. “ In the village below, the little church of the Panaghia is still entire, with its white marble throne described by Dodwell, called by the learned of Kapurna the throne of Plutarch. The dedicatory inscriptions, illustrative of the Egypto-Roman worship of Osiris, which have been repeatedly published, are also still in their places in the front wall of the building, and on those of the little court contiguous. “ About a mile, or little more, from the khan, on the right side of the road towards Orchomenos, is the Sepulchre of the Boeotians who fell in the battle of Chseronea. At the period when this district was traversed by Leake, Dod¬ well, Gell, or any previous traveller to whose works I have had access, nothing was here visible but a tumulus. The lion by which Pausanias describes it as having been surmounted, had com¬ pletely disappeared. The mound of earth has since been excavated, and a colossal marble lion discovered, deeply embedded in its interior. This noble piece of sculpture, though now strewed in detached masses about the sides and interior of the excavation, may still be said to exist nearly in its original in¬ tegrity. It is evident, from the appear¬ ance of the fragments, tliat it was com¬ posed from the first of more than one block, although not certainly of so many as its remains now exhibit. Some of the fragments, however, seem to have been removed. The different pieces are so scooped out as to leave the interior of the figure hollow, with the twofold object, no doubt, of sparing material and saving expense of transport. I could obtain no authentic information as to the period and circumstances of this discovery. The story told on the . spot was that the celebrated patriot chief Odysseus, when in occupation of this district, had observed a piece of marble projecting from the summit of the mound, which he further remarked, when struck, produced a hollow sound. ' Supposing, therefore, according to the popular notion, tnat treasure might be concealed in the interior of the tumulus, he opened it up, and under the same impression broke the lion, which at that time was entire, into pieces, or, as the tra¬ dition goes, blew it up with gunpowder. Another account is, that the lion was first discovered by that patriarch among the present race of Hellenic archaeo- logers, the Austrian consul Gropius, Odysseus being only entitled to the credit of having severed it in pieces. That the government, during the 10 years of comparative tranquillity the country has now enjoyed, should have done nothing for its preservation, is another proof how little the regenera¬ tion of Greece has done for that of her monuments. It would appear that the marble, with the lapse of ages, had gradually embedded itself in th'e soft material that formed its base, so as finally to have sunk, not only beneath the surface of the tumulus, but, to judge from the appearance of the ex¬ cavation, even of the plain itself—a re¬ markable instance of the effect of time in concealing and preserving, as well as in destroying, monuments of ancient art. Northern Greece, boute 4 .— cileroxea.—the marble liox. 215 “ The lion mar, upon the whole, be pronounced the most interesting sepul¬ chral monument in Greece—perhaps in Europe. It is the only one dating from the better days of Hellas, with the ex¬ ception, perhaps, of the tumulus of Marathon, the identity of wliich is be¬ yond dispute. It is also an ascertained spe -Linen of the sculpture of the most perfect period of Greek art. That it records the last decisive blow beneath which Hellenic independence sunk, never permanently to rise again, were in it¬ self a sufficiently strong claim on our warmest sympathies. But the mode in which it records that fatal event renders the claim doubly powerful. For this monument possesses the affecting pe¬ culiarity of being erected, not, as usual with those situated like itself on a field of battle, to commemorate the victory, but the misfortune of the warriors whose bodies repose in the soil beneath —the valour, not the success, of their struggle for liberty. These claims are urged by Pausanias with his usual dry quaint brevity, but with much simple force and pathos. ‘ On approaching the city,’ says he, ‘ is the tomb of the Boeotians who fell in the battle with Philip. It has no inscription, but the figure of a lion is placed upon it, as an emblem of the spirit of these men. The inscription has been omitted, as I sup¬ pose, because the gods had willed that their fortune should not be equal to their prowess ’ (Boeot. xl.). The word here rendered spirit has no equivalent in our language; but it describes very happily the expression which the artist, with an accurate perception of the affecting specialty of the case, has given to the countenance of the animal, and of which, for the reasons Pausanias assigns, the monument was to be the emblem rather than the record ; that mixture, namely, of fierceness and of humiliation, of rage, sorrow, and shame, which would agitate the breasts of proud Hellenic freemen, on being con¬ strained, after a determined struggle on a field bathed with the blood of their best citizens, to yield up their independ¬ ence to the overwhelming power of a foreign and semi-barbarous enemy.”— Col. Mures Tour in Greece , Edinburgh, 1812, vol. i. p. 218. At a short distance W. of Ivapurna, on the road to Davlia, are some remains of the ancient city of Panopeus. From Chseronea the traveller may proceed to Davlia , the ancient Dauhs, a village at the E. foot of Parnassus, beautifully situated among groves of pomegranate. On a hill above it are considerable remains of the walls and towers of the ancient Acropolis, of polygonal masonry, wjth mortar in the interior of the wall, which is the case with many of these ancient works, where it does not appear between the large stones of the external facing. Daulis is celebrated in Mythology as the scene of those impious acts, in conseqifcnce of which Pliilomela was changed into a nightingale. The thickets round the modern village still abound with this “ Daulian bird.” From Davlia a road proceeds along the foot of Parnassus to Arachova and Delphi; but in sum¬ mer the former place may be reached by a very fine mountain pass. Com¬ mencing the ascent of Parnassus at Davlia, the traveller in about 2 hours enters a fine forest of spruce firs, and passing the beautifully situated convent of Jerusalem, the road continues for some way through the wild and pic¬ turesque forest, and afterwards between lofty and snow-clad cliffs commanding a splendid view to the E. over the rich plains of Lebadea and Thebes; at the top of the pass the road lies across a small plain, from whence the descent commences to the picturesque village of Arachova. Two hours’ ride across the plain, and near the Copaic lake, will bring the traveller, following an easterly direction, from Kapurna to Scripu, that is, from the site of Chseronea to the site of the Boeotian Orchomenus. The well and fountain mentioned by Pausanias exist in a monastery here, which occupies the site of the Hieron of the Graces, who chose Orchomenus for their residence in consequence of this Sanctuary. Here games were celebrated in honour of 216 ROUTE 4 . -LEBADEA TO THERMOPYLAE. Sect. II. them. The treasury of Minyas is a ruin close to the monastery, similar to that at Mycenae. A tumulus to the E. of the monastery is probably the tomb of Minyas. There are many considerable and curious remains of the Acropolis of Orcliomenus, of which Col. Leake gives a plan and description. The tra¬ veller who goes to Orcliomenus ought not to omit the much more interesting ruins of Abce, only about 5 English miles N. of Orcliomenus. It is de¬ scribed in the next Route (Route 5). Close to Orcliomenus, the river Melas, or Mavronero, deriving its name from the colour of its waters, issues from 2 katabothra, and flows into the Copaic lake. Travellers who wish to go direct from Lebadea to Thermopylae, and return hence to Delphi, &c., will also derive assistance from Route 5. They will pro ¬ ceed from Lebadea by Choeronea, or by Orcliomenus, to Abce, about 5 hours either way. Thence by the small village of Vogddno (Hyampolis), ^ hour beyond Abac, to Drachma.no (Elatea), 6 hours from Abie. Thence,crossingMt.Cnemis, immediately beyond Drachmano, the view of Parnassus is remarkably fine, particularly to the traveller who re¬ verses this route, and comes upon it first from the northward. About 7 or 8 hours from Drachmano is Molo, and Thermopylae, is or 2 hours beyond it. (See next Route.) Turning his back on the rich plain of Boeotia, and its many ancient ruins, the traveller now proceeds fromLebadea to Chryso in 8J hours. For 3. hours the road lies along the ridge of hills which separates Phocis from Boeotia, whence there is a splendid view of Parnassus. The road then descends into the valley, which extends to the foot of Parnassus. On the right are two immense rocks, towering above the road. On the top of the highest is a remarkable ruin. Thence the road from Daulis to the S.W. leads along a rugged valley towards Delphi, and here falls in with another from Ambrysos ( Distomo) on the S. at a point half-way between the two. This place was called oii;, or the Divided Way; and the T^iohos, or Triple Road. It was often crowded by the pilgrims and wor¬ shippers on their way to Delphi, and the narrowness and difficulty of the path make it the apt scene of such a collision as that of (Edipus and his father. In short this spot agrees in all respects with the description in Pau- sanias, of the place where (Edipus murdered his father, which happened on a spot where the roads from Daulis, Ambrysos, and Delphi met, just be¬ fore entering the defile of Parnassus called Schiste. The ascent of Parnassus begins by the pass of Schiste, between lofty pre¬ cipices. The remains of the Via Sacra are seen in some places. Very high in the rock are several caverns in the de¬ file. At 6 hours’ distance from Lebadea the road begins to descend. Precipices surround the traveller, except where the view extends through valleys and broken cliffs towards Delphi. Chryso (Crissa). See Route 11. The mountain pass from Chryso along the W. side of Parnassus, by Salona to Gravia, presents some very grand scenery; it occupies almost 4 hours. From Gravia the traveller may proceed to Thermopylae, or by Dadi to Lebadea. This route is the shortest way from Lamia to Delphi and the Gulf of Corinth. Leaving Lamia (Zeitun) in the morning, the traveller can cross the plain of the Sperchius, and visit the pass of Thermopylae ; thence, retracing bis steps for a short distance, he can cross the ridge of (Eta, by the Anopcea, or path chosen by the Persians—and sleep the same night in the little khan of ' Gravia, in Doris. The second day he can proceed from Gravia along the "W. side of Parnassus, and through the village of Topolia (leaving Salona a little to the right) to Delphi; or he may pass through Salona to Galaxidi, and there embark for Patras or! ostitza. Chryso to Delphi, labour. Route 11. Arachova, 2 hours. Route 11. Arachova to the summit of Par¬ nassus. Route 11. i From the summit of Parnassus to the Northern Greece, route 4 . —parnassus.—Thermopylae. 217 Monastery of the Virgin is 44 hours. This descent is on the N.W. side of the mountain, and subsequently bears to the E. It is steep and rugged. The Monastery of the Virgin is three-fourths of the journey down, and is beautifully embowered in pine groves, overlooking the mountains of Locri and the Dryopes, and the plains watered by the Cepliissus. From the Monastery of the Virgin to Haghia Marina is 14 hour. The descent continues for 4 hour, and then the road lies along the base of Par¬ nassus. From Haghia Marina to Velitza is 1 hour. The road passes two large pits with a tumulus on the edge, and beyond them is the foundation of a large build¬ ing constructed with great masses of stone. After passing a torrent, several sepulchres are seen hewn in the rock. Velitza stands at the foot of a preci¬ pice of Parnassus. Fine remains of the ancient walls and towers of Tithorea occur in many parts of the modern town of Velitza, from which there is also a very fine view of the peaks of Parnassus. Above the ruins of the city, in the precipice, is a cavern, to wliich the approach is difficult. Here torrents sometimes rush in furious streams down Parnassus. The remains of the Agora, a square structure built in the Cyclo¬ pean style, are to be seen at Tithorea. At the distance of 80 stadia from the city was the temple of Esculapius, and 40 stadia from the temple was a Peri- bolus, containing an Adytum sacred to Isis. The Titlioreans held a vernal and autumnal solemnity in honour of the goddess, where the victims were swathed in folds of linen in the Egyp¬ tian fashion. It is, however, uncertain if Velitza be the site of Tithorea; other authorities place Neon here. Neon is identified by some writers with a paleo- kastron about 1 hour from Velitza. From Velitza to Dadi is 2 hours. The road turns N.W. by N., and crosses a torrent by a bridge, afterwards a foot of Parnassus, which projects into the plain, and then another stream. On a hill beyond the village are some re¬ mains of ancient walls of Cyclopean Greece. arcliitecture, and one of the mural tur¬ rets is still standing. These are the remains of Amphiclea. Dadi is built on terraces in the form of a theatre, like Delphi. It faces the plain of the Cepliissus, towards the N.N.E. Dadi to Budonitza is 3 hours. The road descends by an old military way, by an aqueduct and fountain, into the plain of Elatea, crosses the Cepliissus, and soon after leaving its banks tra¬ verses the plain, and begins to ascend a part of Mount (Eta. Several ruins are seen in this district; the road is very bad as it approaches the summit of this part of (Eta. From the summit the prospect is astonishingly grand and beautiful; and this was probably the eminence called Callidromos. Upon the right the N.W. promontory of Euboea projects towards the centre of the picture. To the left extend the summits and shores of Thessaly. From this spot the traveller descends to Bv- donitza. Below the Castle, which must always have been a most important bulwark in guarding this passage, are the remains of ancient walls, resembling those at Dadi. Budonitza to the Polyandrium of the Greeks who fell at Thermopylae is 1 hour. The road is by the ancient military way, the very route pursued by the Spartans under Leonidas, who defended the defile at the invasion of Xerxes. The whole of the road is a descent from Budonitza, but still lies high above the marshy plain. The hills are covered with trees and rare plants. In a small plain into which the road turns suddenly, just as a steep and con¬ tinued descent commences to the nar¬ rowest parts of the straits, is The Polyandrium , or sepulchral mo¬ nument of the Greeks who fell at Thermopylae, an ancient tumulus with the remains of a square pedestal built of square blocks of red marble breccia, though so much decomposed on its surface as to resemble grey limestone, Thermopylae 11 hour. The descent is very rapid, and the military way is frequently broken up by torrents, f hour from the Polyandrium are the h 218 ROUTE 5. —THERMOPYLAE TO LEBADEA. Sect. II. remains of the great northern wall men¬ tioned by Herodotus. It has been traced from the Malian Gulf to the Gulf of Corinth, a distance of 24 leagues, forming a barrier to Hellas, excluding tEtolia, Acarnania, and Thessaly. Immediately beyond this wall to the left is the fountain where the advanced guard of the Spartans were found “combing their hair” by the recon¬ noitring party of Xerxes. Leaving the fountain, the road enters the bog, the only passage over which is by a narrow paved causeway. The Turkish barrier was placed here upon a narrow stone bridge. This deep and impassable morass extends to the sea towards the E., and Mount Gita towards the W. The Thermae, or hot springs whence this defile takes its name, are at a short distance from this bridge. They issue from 2 mouths at the foot of the lime¬ stone precipices of OEta. They were sacred to Hercules, and are half way between Budonitza and Thermopylae. The temperature of the water is 111° of Fahrenheit at the mouth of the spring. It is impregnated with car¬ bonic acid, lime, salt, and sulphur, and is very transparent. The ground round the springs yields a hollow sound like the solfatara at Naples. At the S. end of the pass, close to a pool from the hot springs, is a mound, probably that to which the Spartans finally retreated, and on which they were killed: from this the localities of the pass are easily traced. The Anopeea , or upper path by which the Persians turned the flank of the Greeks, is on the mountains above. From Thermopylse to Zeitun, 2j- hours. The defile continues for a cer¬ tain distance after passing the springs, and then the road turns off across the plain to Zeitun. The pavement in many places marks the route of Leonidas in liis attack upon the Persian camp, when he ventured out of the defile the night before his defeat. The Sperchius is the chief river in the plain. The marshy air of Thermopylse is unwholesome, but the scenery is some of the best wooded and most beautiful in Greece, and the interesting associations connected with the scene offer additional inducements to the traveller to visit the spot. The road to Zeitun lies over the swampy plain of Trachinia, intersected by the ! Sperchius. The valley of the Sperchius j is 60 miles long, and formed by the nearly parallel chains of Gita and Othrys, both offshoots of Pindus. To the Deity of this river Achilles vowed his hair, if he should live to revisit bis native country. The tragedy of Sophocles and the woes of Dejanira add interest to this s#enery. The funeral pyre of Hercules was on the peak of Gita, and below his Spartan progeny fought, at Thermopylae. Here too the Amphic- tyonic council met at the Gates of Greece—like the Elders and Judges of Eastern cities. The pass, unconquered by man, has been conquered by nature, and is now no longer of much military importance. The narrow defile of a few yards has been widened into a swampy plain from the alluvial deposit of the Sperchius and the retreat of the Mahan Gulf. Lamia, called by the Turks Zeitun, is seated on a hill to the N. of the Tra- chinian plain, and at a short distance from the Malian Gulf. It has been compared to Athens, with its rambling old castle, or acropolis, above, and its Piraeus at Stylidha on the shore below. There is a fine view from the Castle ; and several good bouses have been erected of late years in the town. The frontier of Turkey is only 2 hours to the N., and there is always a garrison of 200 or 300 soldiers at Lamia to repress the robbers who infest the boun¬ dary line. It is 2 days’ journey from Lamia to Larissa. ROUTE 5. THERMOPYLAE TO LEBADEA. 3 days’ journey. The road lies along the plain, within sight of the sea, for about 2 hours; there is good riding when you arrive at the little village of Molo, where there is a decent khan, with unwhitewashed mud walls, but not very dirty. The nature of the ground traversed is such, that in some Northern Greece, route o.—thermopyl.e to lebadea. 219 places a raised road lias been con- ' structed in order to cross the marshes. Several streams are crossed, running down from the neighbouring heights of CEta, which have materially altered the features of the ground, and especially the coast, by forming long alluvial beds running out into the sea. Indeed it would be a difficult matter now to guard the pass against a force so much superior as the Persians were to the Greeks, though another noble stand was made in it during the late revolu¬ tion against the Turks. Prom Molo to Drachmano, the site of ancient Elatea, is a ride of 8 hours. During the first part, the road gra- j dually leaves the sea, rising to the hills ; it then ascends a long valley, and winds over a wild bleak lull by a steep ascent. From the summit the traveller is repaid by a noble view of the ex¬ tended plain of the Cephissus, backed by the bold dark heights of Parnassus, which is here seen rising, unbroken by intervening hills, directly out of the plain of Bceotia. The top is clothed in deep snow for the greater part of the year. The village of Drachmano con¬ tains a khan, with some appearance of more than usual comfort. Hence there are two roads to Lebadea : the shorter and more direct passes through Charo- nea; the other, answering to the leuvr) o%; of Pausanias, leads by the ruins of Hyampolis and Aha to Scripu (Orcho- menus). This latter road runs along at the foot of the bill s which bound the I plain of Bceotia on the left, and being un¬ frequented, requires some attention to trace it. The little village of Vogda.no j occupies the site of the ancient Ilgam- j polls, or at least has succeeded to it; the ruins He on a hill about | mile X.E. of the village, where the range ends in the shape of a parallelogram, at the junction of 3 valleys. Pausanias men¬ tions as a curious fact, that the city was possessed of one source of water only, to which the inhabitants were obliged to resort. This perhaps may be traced in a very copious spring, which still supplies the village of Yogdano : it is a little to the AY., and down the hill : there are many large blocks of squared stones lying about it. In order to see the ruins of Aha, we pass the village of Exarclio, which lies at a distance of about 2 miles across the valley, on the left as we proceed, within sight. A little S. of it are 2 lines of polygonal wall, running half round the city, which unite on the X. side, the higher passing down the Hill until it meets the lower. There are 3 or 4 gates, 2 of which were partly choked up with fallen stones j a 3rd, to which the path leads, and which is therefore the first seen, is very massive, in the Egyptian style, narrowing con¬ siderably towards the top, and of dimi¬ nutive proportions; for a horse could with difficulty enter, and yet the soil cannot be raised artificially, or by time, because the natural rock on which the town must have been built still projects in sharp points close to the gate. The stones of which it is composed are not generally very large, though there is one nearly 14 feet in length ; they are beau¬ tifully joined, and afford a fine specimen of that kind of construction. On the top of the lower wall was a broad terrace of green sward, 12 or 14 paces wide, which still exists but little broken ; this is all artificial, as the natural hill is uncommonly steep. On either side of this gate the wall projected, and on one side formed a square tower. On the summit is a flat space sufficient for a small temple: but Pausanias is not explicit enough to form any guide to the spot where the Oracle stood, though it was of such high reputation in the time of Xerxes. The theatre too is entirely gone, as at Hyampolis. The traveller is cautioned against attempting to cross the marsh by a short road to Scripu, without a man of the country to guide him, otherwise he may lose his horse, or at least be detained for hours. The regular road lies over the top of the hills on the right of the marsh, and descends directly into the village of Scripu, pass¬ ing some fine walls of a fort which once crowned these heights. From Scripu to Lebadea the road is laid down in the preceding route. X.B. The traveller has also the choice L 2 220 ROUTE 6.— MARATHON TO CHALCIS. Sect. IT. of proceeding from Thermopylae to Chalcis, a picturesque journey of 3 days chiefly along the shore of the strait of Euboea; and from Thermopylae to Thebes, also about 3 days’ journey. ROUTE 6. MARATHON TO CHAiCIS. Marathon to— Hrs. Site of Rhamnus.1£ G-rammatico.1J Kalamo.3 Apostoli.3 Oropo. 5 Ruins of Tanagra ..... 3 Return to Oropo.3 Delisi (the site of Deliuni), 7 m. from Oropo, a little left of the road, Dramisi.1 Chalcis.3 The site of the ruins of Rhamnus is remarkable; the ground is covered with clumps of lentisk, and no house is visi¬ ble ; a long woody ridge runs eastward into the sea, and on each side of it is a ravine running parallel to it. On the E. extremity of this ridge, on a small rocky peninsula, is the site of the town of Rhamnus. Its principal ruins are those of its 2 temples; they stand on rather higher ground W. of this peninsula. “ Among the lentisk-bushes which entangle the path there, you are sud¬ denly surprised with the site of a long wall of pare white marble, the blocks of which, though of irregular forms, are joined with the most exquisite sym¬ metry. This wall runs eastward, and meets another of similar masonry abut¬ ting upon it at right angles. They form 2 sides of a platform. On tins platform are heaps of scattered fragments of columns, mouldings, statues, and reliefs, lying in wild confusion. The outlines of two edifices standing nearly from N. to S. are distinctly traceable, which are almost contiguous, and nearly, though not quite, parallel to each other. These two edifices were temples ; this terraced platform was their or sacred [ enclosure. The western of these tem¬ ples, to judge from its diminutive size and ruder architecture, was of much earlier date than the other. It con¬ sisted of a simple cclla, being constructed in antis, whereas the remains of its neighbour show tliat it possessed a double portico and a splendid peristyle. It had twelve columns on the flank, and six on each front.”— Wordsworth. The largest of these temples has been supposed to be that of the Rhamnusian goddess Nemesis, and an inscription found here seems to confirm the idea. It records the dedication by Herodes Atticus of a statue of one of his adopted children to the goddess Nemesis. But both these temples were dedicated to Nemesis, and it is probable that the former temple was in ruins before the latter one was erected; but at what period it was destroyed or by whom is uncertain. The remains of the town of Rhamnus are considerable. The W. gate is flanked by towers, and the S. wall, extending towards the sea, is well preserved, and about 20 feet high. The part of the town bordering on the sea is rendered very strong by its position on the edge of perpendicular rocks. The beauty of its site and natural features, enhanced as it is by the interest attached to the spot, is the most striking charac¬ teristic of Rhamnus. Standing on this peninsular knoll, the site of the ancient city, among walls and towers grey with age, with the sea behind you, and Attica „ before, you look up a woody glen towards its termination in an elevated platform, where, as on a natural base¬ ment, the temples stood, of which even the ruined walls, of white shining marble, now show so fairly to the eye through the veil of green shade that screens them. This town was the birthplace of Antipho, the master of Thucydides. Orammatico , 1J horn*, an Albanian village. The route now lies over a mountain tract, near the broad tops of Mount Varnava (Barnabas). Hence is a magnificent view extending W. over the highest ridge of Mount Pames, with a glimpse of the Saronic Gulf. S. are the high peaks of the ancient Brilessus. Northern Greece. ROUTE 6.—MARATHON TO CHALOIS. 221 Beneath, on the right, is the strait of Euboea. The surface of the hills is here and there clothed with shrubs, but there is no large timber. We descend by a route broken into frequent ravines by the torrents which flow from the higher summits. Kalamo, 3 hours. Situated on the heights above the sea, in face of the deep gulf of Aliceri in Euboea. From the hill above the town is a fine view of the surrounding country. Leaving Kalamo, we descend by a bad road to the great Charadra, or torrent which comes from the summit of Mount Parnes. There are many remains of antiquity here, and some inscriptions found on the spot have fixed it as the site of the temple of Amphiaraus. Hence we descend through a gorge in the hills by a gra¬ dual slope. Left, in a lofty situation, is the village of Markopulo, which must not be confounded with another village of the same name in the central district j of Attica. We now enter a plain ex¬ tending to the mouth of the Asopus ; ; and, crossing two large torrents,arrive at j Apostoli, 3 hours ( Aym ’atoVt*X»/, the Roh) Apostles ), most probably the Bite of Delphinium, which was once the harbour of Oropus. It is now the scala or wharf of Oropo, and the port i whence passengers embark for Eubcea. Such was the case also with Del¬ phinium. “ The name itself of Apostoli was, I conceive, chosen from reference to this its maritime character. The vessels which left its harbour, the voyages which were here commenced, suggested, from the very terms in the language by which they were described, the present appropriate dedication of the place to the Holy Apostles; which the pious ingenuity, by which the Greek Church has always been distinguished, has not allowed to be suggested in vain.”— Wordsworth. There are but few vestiges of anti¬ quity at Apostoli, with the exception of a tumulus with a sarcophagus near it. Oropo, \ hour. A village containing about 50 houses, standing on the lower heights of the ritlge of Markopulo, above some gardens, which extend to the river Asopus. Some large blocks of hewn stone are all that remains of the fortifications of a town which was, on account of its site, so long the object of military contention to its powerful neighbours. “ A few mutilated inscrip¬ tions are all that survives of the litera¬ ture of a city, which formerly occasioned by its misfortunes the introduction of Greek phdosophy into the schools and palaces of Koine.”— Wordsworih. The route from Oropo to Tauagra passes through the village of Sycamiuo, a hamlet inhabited by Albanians, on the opposite bank of the Asopus; the road turns left and ascends the stream, here shaded by pines ; it then descends into a small plain, where the Asopus is seen turning to the left into a fine woody chasm, abounding iu plane-trees. Tanagra is 3 hours, about 10 miles, from Oropo ; its site is on a large circu¬ lar hill, neither abrupt nor high, rising from the X. bank of the Asopus, and communicating by a bridge with the S. bank, where there are also ancient re¬ mains. The proximity of the city to the Asopus is the reason why Tanagra was styled the daughter of that river. E. of the city a torrent flows into the Asopus. A hill on its banks was sacred to the Tanagraeans from the tradition which made it the birth¬ place of Mercury. The vestiges of Tanagra are not very considerable, and are more remarkable for their extent than for their grandeur. There are a few remnants of polygonal ma¬ sonry, and a gate of the city, on the S. side, the lintel of which is more than 6 feet long, of a single stone. Little is 5 left of the walls but their foundations, the circuit of which may be traced. The ground is thickly strewn with fragments of earthenware, which show | the existence of a numerous population j in former times. At the N.W. comer j of the citadel may be traced the outline | of a semicircular building, probably a theatre, scooped out in the slope on which its walls are built. There is | another similar site in the interior of the city S. of the above-mentioned one. 2 22 ROUTE 6.-MARATHON TO CHALCIS.-DELIUM. Sect. II. In the Augustan age Thespise and Tanagra were the only Boeotian towns which were preserved, and Tanagra existed for a long time under the Roman sway in Greece. In the plain to the iS T . of Tanagra are two churches, re¬ spectively dedicated to St. Nicholas and to St. George: from the frag¬ ments of marble, &c. inserted in their walls, they appear to occupy the site of the old temples of Tanagra. In the walls of another church, on the S. side of the Asopus, dedicated to St. Theodore, and built almost entirely of ancient blocks, is an interesting inscrip¬ tion. The former part of it records, in elegiac verse, the dedication of a statue by a victor in a gymnastic contest; the latter is a fragment of an honorary decree, conferring the rights of citizen¬ ship on a native of Athens, in consi¬ deration of the services which he had rendered to the state of Tanagra. Return to Oropo. The road again passes by the village of Sycamino , and bears to the left over wild uncultivated hills to Delisi, 7 miles, the site of Delium, rendered famous by the intrepidity of Socrates and the misfortunes of his country. It is situated on rising ground, which shelves down to the plain a little left of the road. By its position on the S. verge of the flat strip of land which fringes the sea from the Euripus, »nd is here reduced to a narrow margin, it commanded this avenue from Attica to Boeotia along the coast, and this was probably the reason why Dehum was seized and fortified by the Athenians as a port from which they might sally against then - northern neighbours: its maritime position was also favourable. The sea here makes a reach in a S.E. direction, and by the possession of the bay thus formed, Delium became the emporium of Tanagra, which was 5 miles distant. “ It was on an evening at the begin¬ ning of winter that the battle of Delium was fought; it took place at about a mile to the south of the village from which it was named. One of these .sloping hills covered the Boeotian forces from the sight of their Athenian anta¬ gonists. These abrupt guides, chan¬ nelled in the soil by the autumnal rain, impeded the conflict of the two armies. They afforded less embarrassment to the manoeuvres of the lighter troops ; it was to their superiority in this sjvecies of force that the Boeotians were mainly indebted for their victory. Their suc¬ cess was complete. The darkness of the night, and his own good genius, pre¬ served the Athenian philosopher, lie seems to have escaped, in the first in¬ stance, by following the bed of one of these deep ravines, into which the soil has been ploughed by the mountain streams : he returned home, together with his pupil and his friend, by a par¬ ticular road, which his guardian spirit prompted him to take, and which in vain he recommended to his other com¬ rades, whom the enemy convinced too late of their unhappy error.”— Words¬ worth. The road to Chalcis now passes by Dramisi, which has been erroneously identified with Delium ; but there ap¬ pears to be no evidence of its occupying the site of an ancient city. The road lies over a bare arable plain parallel to the sea, and bounded W. by low hills. It then ascends a rugged mountain ; on the summit are the remains of a ruined Hellenic city. Descending thence, we arrive at a fountain : the district around is that still called Vlike , or Avlike (A vXir.r). The city on the mountain lias been supposed to be Aulis, and the small harbour to the S. the port de¬ scribed by Strabo, as affording a har¬ bour for 50 ships. A larger harbour begins S. of the narrowest point of the Euripus, and spreads like an unfolded wing from the side of Euboea; it is doubtless the Port of Aulis, in which the Greek fleet was moored under Agamemnon. We continue to skirt the shore, till we reach the famous bridge of the Euripus, about 3 hours from Dramisi. By means of this bridge the Boeotians blockaded these ancient Dardanelles of Greece against their enemies the Athe¬ nians, thus locking the door of Athe- 223 ROUTE 7. -ATHENS TO ( HALOS DIRECT. Northern Greece. niau commerce. The gold of Thasos, the horses of Thessaly, the timber ot Macedonia, and the com of l'hrace, were carried into the Piraeus by this channel. This bridge was built by the Boeotians b.C. 410. From this period the tenure by Athens of the best part of Euboea was precarious, and her com¬ munication with the northern markets was either dependent upon the amity of Boeotia, or else was exposed to the dan¬ gers of the open sea. Euboea itself was of vast importance to her from its po¬ sition and produce. Passing thus rapidlyfrom state to state of ancient Greece, the traveller will be reminded of the small size of the com¬ munities which have filled so great a space in the attention of the world. Hellas, like Switzerland and Germany in modem times, resembled a collection of mirrors, each having its own separate focus of patriotism, but all able to con¬ verge to one point, and, as at Plataa, Morgarten, or Leipsic, exterminate a common enemy. ROUTE 7. ATHENS TO CHAECIS DIRECT. The most level and easy, though cir¬ cuitous, route from Athens to Chalcis is through Liosi, leaving Tatoe some dis¬ tance on the left, and Capandriti a little on the right, to the large village of Markopulo, where there is one of the best khans in Greece. From thence we descend to the Scala of Oropo, and pro¬ ceed along the coast to Chalcis. Another route is the following by the pass of Decelea. Athens to— Hours. Tatoe.5 Skimitari.7 Chalcis.3 2 hours from Athens, we cross a large chasm, in which the greater branch of the Cephissus flows, and which, a little above this spot, takes a sudden turn to the hills N.W. of Ce- phissia. The road now inclines E. of N. over an open plain covered with heath and shrubs. Left is Panics clothed with woods, which unites itself with the lulls stretching to the N. declivities of Mount Pentelicus, and which form the boundary on this side of the plain of Athens. The road ascends these hills for 1 \ hour to a stone fountain on a wooden knoll, a resting-place for travellers, and called Tatoe, 3 hours. This is the site of Decelea , an ancient Demus of Attica, situated at the entrance of the most eastern of the 3 passes over Paraes ; the two others being that by I'/iyle, and that by Eleutherce. By this pass Mar- donius retreated into Dceotia before the battle of Plata?a, and by this route com, Ac. was conveyed from Euboea to Athens. In b.c. *413, Decelea was fortified by the Spartans, who retained it till the end of the Peloponnesian war, to the great injury and annoyance of the Athenians. Hence is a view of the whole plain and city of Athens as far as the Piraeus, whence it is distant 5 long hours N.N.E. On a hillock above the fountain are some remains of an ancient wall. A path strikes off through the hills E. to Oropo, 4 hours distant. Leaving the fountain, we proceed 1^ hour through the hills belonging to the mountain anciently called Brilessus, over a pre- cipitous path, till we get north of the high range of Mount Pames. By the side of a torrent is a solitary church, whence the road descends into an ex¬ tensive plain. At the distance of 4 hours from the foot of the mountain, and to the N. of the plain, is an old ruined tower; to this point the road leads, crossing the Asopus at a ford. This tower may have been either a castle of the Latin princes, or else a Turkish watch-tower, to prevent surprise from the fleets of the Venetians. It com¬ mands a view of the whole of Bceotia E. of Thebes, and of the windings of the Asopus. Skimitari, lj hour from the ruined tower. A place consisting of 80 houses, 5 hours from Thebes, and 3 from Chalcis. Hence the road lies over uneven 224 Sect. II. ROUTE 8.—THEBES TO CHAEC1S (eUBCEa). downs, with a view of the strait and of the high hills of Eubcea. Approaching the shore we turn left to the village of Vatliy close to the shore, and to a bay formerly called Deep Bay (B«,6u), (the large port of Aulis), from which the mo¬ dern village takes its name. The path, which is very rocky, now winds round the small port of Aulis. (Route 6.) Half an hom 1 after the Bay of Vathy we double the IS.E. extremity of the mountain anciently called Messapius, and in another half hour arrive at the bridge over the Euripus. On passing the Bay of Aulis, the scholar will call to mind the beautiful descriptions of the sacrifice of Iphigenia in iEschylus and in Lucretius. ROUTE 8. THEBES TO CHALOIS (EUBCEA). 5 hours. Quitting Thebes at the E. extremity of the town, we leave the fountain of St. Theodore to the right, and arrive in an hour at an ancient foundation, called by the modern Thebans “ the Grates.” A mile before arriving at this place, the road descends. A low rocky hill, 300 or 400 yards to the left, conspicuous from its insulated position, stretches into the plain, and is separated by a narrow strip of land from the foot of Hypatus, or Siamata. This hill corresponds with Teumessus, which was on the road from Thebes to Chalcis, in sight from the walls of the Cadmeia. In the time of Pausanias, there was at Teumessus a temple of Minerva Telcliinia. The road now ascends a low ridge, which forms a junction between Mount Soro and the supposed Teumessus, and then descends into the plain, which forms a continua¬ tion of that of Thebes. The village of Syrtzi is 1J mile to the left, and an hour after, Spahides is | hour right; 2 or 3 miles right is a modem ruined tower on a rocky height, which conceals Andritza, where are some Hellenic remains and a copious source of water. The road ascends now a low root of Hypatus, and passing some Hellenic foundations, and other remains, reaches a fountain. Above the right bank of a torrent which descends from Platanaki, a monastery on the mountain, are the traces of the citadel of an ancient town. From the fountain the road ascends a ridge of hills connected with Mount Ktypa, and leads through a pass be¬ tween two peaked heights, where are left some remains of an old wall of Hellenic masonry: on the right are vestiges of a similar wall. On the sum¬ mit of this pass, through which the road from Thebes to Chalcis must always have led, a beautiful view opens of the Euripus, the town of Chalcis, and great part of the island of Euboea. The road descends into an open plain, intersected with low rocks, and then passes under the hill of Karababa , along the S. shore of the Bay of Chalcis, to the bridge of the Euripus at its E. extremity. There is a small inn at Chalcis. EUBCEA. The island of Eubcea and its chief town were in the middle ages called Egripo, a manifest corruption of E fyitro;; but as every place of importance has now resinned by law its ancient name, we have discarded the modern appella¬ tions of Xegropont and Egripo, and have restored to the island its classical name of Euboea, and to the town that of Chalcis.* This island was considered one of the most important possessions of Venice in the prosperity of that powerful republic; and one of the me¬ morials of its former greatness, dis¬ played to this day at St. Mark’s, is the standard of the kingdom of Xegropont. The capital town, for many years after its reduction by Mahomet II., was the usual residence, and under the imme¬ diate command of the Capitan Pasha, the high admiral of the Turkish fleets. At the present day, Chalcis is the only place in the kingdom of Greece where a * Kegroponte was formed from Egripo-ponte by the common prefix of v :— k- hera, once a considerable village, then follows the slope of the hills to the Paleo-kastron of Porta, 4 hours. The monastery, called the Panaghia of j Porta, is founded on a part of the walls of the acropolis, which encircle the summit of an irregular height rising from the middle of the vale, j which is enclosed by Mount Vumisto, the ridge of Katuna, and the moun- j tain of Chrysovitzi. The walls are chiefly polygonal, except on the lower side towards Makhala, where they are j best preserved, and where a tower of regular masonry subsists to half its ori¬ ginal height. A little above it is an ancient reservoir, which still contains the waters of a spring which here takes its rise. Within the Hellenic enclosure are many foundations of ancient build¬ ings and traces of terraces, now sepa¬ rated from each other by luxuriant bay-trees. The monastery is large, but contains no Hellenic remains. The hill of Porta is the limit of the valley of Aetos, so called from a deserted village at the foot of Mount Vumisto, opposite to which, in the direction of Porta, is a pointed hill crowned with a castle of the lower ages, also named Aetos or Aet6. Leaving Porta, we proceed in the direction of Katuna, through the valley, which, except at Aetos and Katuna, is uncultivated. In 2 hours we find our¬ selves immediately below .ST Nicholas of Aetos, a monastery on the lower heights of the ridge attached to the castle peak. Katuna, 2^ hours. From Katuna we proceed to Lulraki and Balimbey. From thence to St. Basil, a village on the N. slope of the mountain of Pergandi, is 1^ hour. Here there is nothing more than a church of St. Basil, and a cluster of cottages. Vonitza is 3 hours from St. Basil. The road descends the mountain, crosses the elevated plain, re-enters the forests, and approaches Vonitza a little above some ancient foundations on the hill of St. Elias. ROUTE 15. AETOS TO ALYZEA. This route may be regarded as an appendage or cross-road to that imme¬ diately preceding. 2 hours bring the traveller to a gorge, through which a torrent forces its way into the plain of Mytika. On the summit of the gorge is a small and beautiful Hellenic tower. Descending the mountain, we cross the plain of Mytika to the Paleo-kastron of Kundili, the name given to the ruins of Alyzea, situated above the village of Kandili, about 1 hour from the sea. The walls are in the best Hellenic style, and probably, of all the cities in this part of Acarnania, Alyzea would best repay excavation and research. Near the angle of the plain of Mytika, which is a triangular level, of which the shore is the base, and two chains of lofty and abrupt mountains form the sides, a mountain stream has forced a magnificent passage through the lime¬ stone, and, restrained there by an em- 252 ROUTE 15.-AETOS TO ALYZEA. Sect. II. bankment, it has accumulated its waters for the irrigation of the plain. Thus Hellenic construction and Cyclopic la¬ bours were here devoted to an useful ■work, and remain at the present day an instructive lesson. From Kandili a nigged path leads by Mytika and Zaverdha to Santa Maura, a distance of about 5 hours. In the year b.c. 374 the bay of Alyzea was the scene of a naval victory, gained by 60 Athenian ships, commanded by Timotheus, against 55 Lacedemonians, under Nicolochus; on which occasion the historian relates that Timotheus re¬ tired after the battle to Alyzea, where he erected a trophy ; that the Lacede¬ monians, having been reinforced by six ships from Ambracia, again offered him battle, and that when Timotheus re¬ fused to come forth, Nicolochus erected a trophy on one of the neighbouring islands, probably that of Kalamos, an¬ ciently Carnus. ROUTE 16 .-— ATHENS TO SPAIiTA. 253 Peloponnesus. PART II. THE PELOPONNESUS.* E0UTE PACK ROUTE PAGE 16. Athens to Sparta, by Egina, 22. Cyparissia to Tripolitza . . 288 Epidaurus, Nauplia, Tiryns, 23. Cyparissia, through Arcadia Mycenae, Argos, Tripolitza, and Elis, to Patras . . . 290 and Mantinea. 253 24. Andritzena to Kalabryta and 17 . Sparta, through Maina to Ka- Megaspelaeon . . . . . 293 lamata. 268 25. Pyrgos to Patras, by Gastuni 294 18. Sparta, over Mount Taygetus, 26. Patras to Tripolitza . . .295 to Kalamata. 279 27. Karytena to Kalabryta and the 19. Sparta, by Messene, to Kala- Styx ....... 296 m ata .. 279 28. Patras to Nauplia .... 297 20. Kalamata to Sakona and Mes- 29. Nauplia to Corinth, by Nemea 297 sene. 283 30. Nauplia to Athens, by Hydra, 21. Kalamata to Cyparissia ( Ar- Poros, &c.298 cadia), by Pylos ( Navarino ) . 283 ROUTE 16. ATHENS TO SPARTA. Hrs. M. MU. Piraeus to Egina . ..0011 Egina to Epidaurus . .0011 Epidaurus to Nauplia ..70 Epidaurus, by Hieron, to Nauplia.9 0 Nauplia direct to Tripolitza 9 0 Nauplia to Argos, by Tiryns and Mycenae . . . . 4 20 Argos to Tripolitza ..90 Tripolitza to Sparta . .12 0 Boats can be hired in the Piraeus at reasonable rates for excursions in all directions fsee General Introduc¬ tion). A2gina may be visited in a separate excursion from Athens, or en route for the Peloponnesus. In shape the island is an irregular triangle, and contains about 41 square miles. Its western half consists of a plain, which, though stony, is well cultivated with corn, but the remainder of the island is mountainous and unproductive. A magnificent conical hill, called Orog\ occupies the whole southern part of the island, and is the most remark¬ able among the natural features of iEgina. Notwithstanding its small size, iEgina was one of the most celebrated of the Greek islands. It was famous in the mythical period; and in his¬ torical times we find it peopled by Dorians from Epidaurus, and possessing a powerful navy. About b.c. 500, the iEginetans held the empire of the sea ; and at the battle of Salamis, b.c. 480, they were admitted to have distin¬ guished themselves above all other Greeks for their bravery. Long a rival of Athens, iEgina succumbed to her in b.c. 456, and became a portion of the Athenian empire. But dreading the vicinity of such discontented subjects, Pericles, who used to call the island the Eije-sore of the Piraeus, expelled the whole population in b.c. 431, and filled their place with Athenian settlers. The expelled iEginetans were settled by the Spartans in Thyrea, and, though restored to their country at the close of the Peloponnesian war, they never recovered their ancient power and pro¬ sperity. The island of iEgina is distant about 11 miles from the Piraeus, and nearly the same from Epidaurus. It was one of the few places which escaped the calamities of the devastating war of the Revolution. It was for some time, in 1828-29, the seat of the Greek govern- * Morm, the modern name of the Peloponnesus, is probably derived from the Slavonic word more, signifying the sea, this being, par excellence, the maritime province of Greece. 254 ROUTE 16 . -7EGIXA. Sect. II. ment; and many rich families of the Peloponnesus bought land and settled here, added to -which, the refugees from Scio and Psara Hocked hither in great numbers: so that in 1829 it became the resort of a mixed popula¬ tion of about 10,000 Greeks from all parts of Greece. At present the in¬ habitants of iEgina do not exceed 7000 in number. It is in general easier to go from Athens to ASgina and Epi- daurus than vice versa, owing to the prevalence of northerly winds during a great part of the year; and it is misery to be wind-bound in either of the latter places. The climate of ASgina is delightful, and the air so pure, that epidemic fevers, the scourge of the Pelopon¬ nesus, are almost unknown in it. The soil is fertile, and it is carefully cul¬ tivated, yielding ail the usual produc¬ tions of Greece in great abundance. The interior of the island is rather des¬ titute of wood, but the picturesque hills, rocky precipices, and pretty val¬ leys with which the island is diversified, afford a variety of pleasing landscapes. The heights present beautiful views of the surrounding islands and continent. The best plan is to land at the N.E. extremity of the island, and to walk up to the temple. This can be easily ef¬ fected, and it is not more than half an hoar’s walk. Town of JEyi/ta .—On a pointed hill, 3 miles inland, may be seen the ruins of the Venetian town of the Middle Ages. This has been abandoned by the inhabitants, who, being induced by their love of commerce to prefer the sea-shore, removed to the site of the ancient city, whose position is still marked by a Doric column. To the S. of this column may be seen traces of an old port. This port is oval in shape, and is sheltered by two ancient moles, which leave only a narrow passage in the middle, between the remains of towers, which stood on either side of the entrance. In the same direction we find another oval port, twice as large as the former, the entrance of which is protected in the same way by ancient moles, 15 or 20 feet thick. The walls of the ancient city are still traced through their whole extent on the land side. As has been said, the actual town occupies the site of the ancient city at the JN'.W. end of the island. The streets in the modern town are more regular than those in most other towns of Greece; and some good houses were built there before Athens became the residence of the court. Siuce that period, however, it has again declined. Capo d’istria erected an extensive range of buildings near the town, which he destined for barracks, but they have since been converted into a museum, a library, and a school. The Museum was the first institution of the kind at¬ tempted in Greece, but its antiquities are now transferred to Athens, and the building itself is falling into decay. The Library, a spacious lofty room, con¬ tains only a few ancient Greek or Eotnan books printed in London. The Lazaretto, a well constructed edifice, is situated at some distance from the town on the shore. Since Athens has become the capital, this lazaretto is but little frequented. In former days iEgina was celebrated for the beauty and richness of its monu¬ ments ; but the only remains of them consist of a few tombs, vestiges of wells, and a mosaic pavement, with the ex¬ ception of the column on the shore above mentioned, and the ruins of the celebrated Temple of Jupiter Panhellenius (now supposed by some to have been a temple of Minerva).—This temple is 6 miles distant from the port, and from the badness of the road, it requires 2£ hours to reach it; but the usual course is to land immediately below the temple and to proceed to the town afterwards. This is supposed to he one of the most ancient temples in Greece. The ap¬ proach, by a winding path, ascending through rich and varied scenery, is ex¬ quisitely attractive, and nothing can exceed the beauty of the situation. The ruin stands on the top of a hill, of moderate height, but commanding a noble view of the greater part of the island, the whole of the Gulf of Salamis, and some of the more distant islands, the coast of Attica from the Scironian rocks to Cape Sunium, the Parthenon, Peloponnesus. route 16.—epidaurus. 25 o ancl Eleusis. The temple is remote from any human habitation, and was formerly surrounded with shrubs and small pine-trees. 22 of the columns are still entire, viz. 20 of the peribolus, aud 2 of the cella. The gr. ater part of the architrave also is still remaining, but the cornice with the metopes and triglyphs have all fallen. The temple is built of a soft porous stone, coated with a thin stucco, and the architraves and cornice were elegantly painted. The pavement also was covered witli a fine stucco, of a vermilion colour. The platform upon which it stands has been supported on all sides by terrace walls. In the rock beneath there is a cave, apparently leading under the temple, and which was doubtless once employed in the mysteries of the old idolatry. It was from among the ruins round the basement of this temple that those in¬ teresting works of ancient sculpture, the /Eginetan marbles, now at Munich, were found, in 1811, by Cockerell, Forster, and some German artists. There are casts of them in the British Museum. The subject of the Eastern pediment appears to be the expedition of the /Eacidse or /Eginetan heroes against Troy; that of the western probably represents the contest of the Greeks and Trojans over the body of Patroclus. We must refer to Wordsworth and Leake for the arguments about the dedication of this magnificent Doric temple. It was probably erected in the 6th century b.c. Egina was fabled to hare derived its name from a daughter of the river-god Azopus. Its inhabitants were renowned, as we have seen, among the ancient Greeks for their maritime skill, and this, added to their valour, was dis¬ played at Salamis in a manner to entitle them, according to Herodotus, to the first rank. Their glory and prosperity were, however, of short duration; for they became involved in a naval war with the Athenians in the time of Pericles, which terminated in their complete defeat and the loss of their navy, and they never subsequently regained their former rank and su¬ premacy. The island was originally barren and unproductive, but was ren¬ dered fruitful by the industry 7 of the inhabitants. Boats for any part of the continent may be hired at /Egina at a moderate expense. It is 11 miles to Epidaurus, which formerly 7 sent 800 men to Platsea and ships to Salamis, but is now a miserable village, and can barely muster 100 inhabitants and a few small boats. There is, notwith¬ standing, very tolerable accommodation for travellers. The houses are built on the right shore of the bay as you enter it, and not on the site of the old town, which w r as situated on a rocky eminence running out into the bay, and connected with the land by a narrow 7 swampy isthmus. At the foot of this height 5 mutilated statues of white marble were dug up some years ago; 3 female figures of colossal size, one of which is recumbent, and exhibits toler¬ able execution ; the others had no pe¬ culiar excellence. Epidaurus was noted in the former ages of Greece for its sacred grove and sanctuary. It is situated in a recess in the Saronic Gulf, open to the N.E., and backed by high mountains. In the time of the Peloponnesian war it appears to have been strongly fortified; under Augustus, its circuit was no more than 15 stadia, whence it appears that Epidaurus was already at that time re¬ duced to the promontory, where we now see, in many parts, the foundations of Hellenic walls, along the edge of the cliff. The port of Epidaurus is good, and is protected by a peninsula to the S. 4 small plain surrounds the village. It I is highly cultivated, and very produc¬ tive ; having almost the appearance of an j English garden. Vegetables are raised ! here for the supply of the Athenian j market. Epidaurus has recently again ! acquired celebrity, from having given its name to the Constitution, adopted by a General Congress of Deputies | from all parts of Greece, and promul¬ gated on the 1st of January, 1822. During the period of the Congress the Deputies were forced to live in the open air, being unable to find accom¬ modation in the village. The place at which the first Greek 256 ROUTE 16.-EPIDAURUS TO NAUPLIA. Sect. II. Congress, or Constituent Assembly met, is I 5 hour to the N.E. of Epidaurus, and is called Piadha (rua2«). This vil¬ lage is beautifully situated upon a lofty ridge of rocks, 2 miles from the sea; it was formerly protected by an old castle, still remaining, probably built by the Venetians. The road to it is a path along the hills, covered with laurels, myrtles, and pines, always in sight of the sea. Numerous coins of the Republic are found here; and the deserted state of Epidaurus may, per¬ haps, be accounted for by the prefer¬ ence which, for some reason or other, seems to have been given to this neigh¬ bouring port. “ Ill-built and ill-pro¬ vided," remarks Mr. Waddington, “ Piadha still offered more resources to the Congress than any neighbouring town, and was, therefore, selected to be the birth-place of the Greek Consti¬ tution.” The house in which the legislative assembly was convened is “ a large rustic chamber, forming a parallelo¬ gram, and insulated in the middle of the village, near an ancient tower, erected in the time of the Venetians, and now inhabited by a poor old woman. This rough dwelling/’ adds Count Pecchio, “ reminded me of the cottages of Uri, where the Swiss confederated against the tyranny of Austria.” A short sail S. of Epidaurus is the vol¬ canic peninsula of Methana, highly in¬ teresting to the geologist. Numerous small islets lie off the coast. Epidaurus to Nauplia, by Hieron, is nearly 9 hours’ ride. The direct road to Nauplia, by Lygourio, is only 25 miles, and may be performed with ease in 7 hours. The detour to Hieron, including the time requisite for the inspection of the sacred inclosure, will not lengthen the journey much, (as a great part of the road is good, - ) provided the baggage be sent the direct road. The first part of the road to Hieron is over a fertile plain, producing tobacco and corn, and covered with clumps of arbutus and myrtle; it then passes through a very romantic defile, by the side of a rocky hill, with a mountain torrent tumbling beneath. The path in some places is a mere shelf, only broad enough for one to pass, with a sheer precipice above and below; while in others it winds through a beautiful shrubbery, where the myrtle and arbutus are joined over the head of the traveller by festoons of the clematis in full bloom and odour. By such a path, he reaches the spot where stood the Ispi/v, (whence comes the modern name Hieron) or Sanctuary of JEsculapius. The sacred or grove of the Epidaurii, one of the most renowned places in Greece, for its sanctity, riches, and the splendour of the sacred offerings which adorned it, was situated at the upper end of a valley, there terminated by a semicircle of steep hills, from which several torrents descend, and unite at the south¬ western extremity of the valley, from whence the stream passes, through an opening in the mountains, and joins the river of Lessa. The most remarkable remains of antiquity here are those of the theatre; innumerable fragments of other build¬ ings lie around, but nothing like an edifice, or anything to guide the tra¬ veller in appropriating to any par¬ ticular object these confused ruins. The Theatre , from the renown of its architect, Polycletus, may be consi¬ dered as one of the most curious re¬ mains of antiquity in Greece. Although no traces of the proscenium remain, and many of the seats made of white limestone are displaced by the bushes which have grown among them, it is in better preservation than any other theatre in Greece, except that which exists near Dramisius, in Epirus, not far from Joaunina (Sect. IV., Route 35). The upper part of the edifice is in so ruined a state, that it is not easy to ascertain its details; but enough remains to show that the orchestra was about 90 feet long, and the entire theatre about 370 feet in diameter: 32 rows of seats still appear above ground in a lower division, which is separated by a di- azoma from an upper, consisting of 20 seats; 24 scalse, or flights of steps, diverging in equidistant radii from the bottom to the top, formed the communi¬ cation with the seats. The theatre, when complete, was capable of con- Peloponnesus. route 16.- taining 12,000 spectators. Pausanias enumerates in this valley, besides the Sanctuary of iEsculapius, temples of Diana, Apollo, Venus, Themis, &c. The Stadium.—Of this nothing can be traced but the form, the circular end and a part of the adjacent sides, with portions of 15 rows of seats. Near it are the ruins of two cisterns and a bath, evidently the works of the Romans. From Hieron the traveller crosses a plain, in which are some vestiges of antiquity; and arrives at the direct route about 50 minutes after leaving the Hieron. Lygourio is a large village upon a hill, the site of the ancient Lessa. In some parts may be observed traces of the old walls: and the great gate ap¬ pears to have been near the well. The distance of Lygourio from Nauplia is 4 hours; the road passing first through a vale, then across a glen and brook. About 2 hours from Lygourio is a pass between a mountain on the right, and a kastron of good Hellenic masonry, with square and circular towers in good pre¬ servation, on the left. Twenty minutes farther is Mount Arachne on the left, and half an hour farther a tower on the left, of old Greek masonry, and a ruined I Paleo-kastion about a mile off. About 3 hours from Lygourio is a wooded dell, and the Monastery of St. Demetrius. From the monastery there is another road to Lygourio. Half an hour farther is a Paled-kastron of ancient masonry, situated on a bold rock near a torrent. This is probably Midea. The road then passes by several vil¬ lages and curious conic rocks. The village of Aria succeeds on the left; and half an hour from thence the tra¬ veller, passing a rock in which a colossal lion has been sculptured as a monument to the Bavarians who fell in the Greek war, descends to the Bay of Nauplia; Ital. Napoli di Romania; Inns very inferior, and constantly changing names and proprietors. The Hotel de la Paix (ii Eip-ivn) was the best in 1850. Beware in Nauplia of dirt and vermin, and be sure to make a bargain beforehand. Nauplia is easy of ^access from its communication by —NAUPLIA. dO i steam with Athens 2 or 3 times a month in 10 or 12 hours. As the traveller enters Nauplia, the lion of St. Mark, and the arms of the Venetian Republic over the gate, remind him that he is about to enter a modern stronghold. On the left, the grand and lofty rock Palamede rises precipitously, crowned with a strong fortress. The classical reader learned in legen¬ dary lore, will recollect that Palamedes, the son of Nauplius, the founder of this city, was the unfortunate hero who de¬ tected the feigned insanity of Ulysses, when employed in the notable farce of sowing the sea shore with salt, and was, by the vengeance of the crafty Ithacan, put to death by the Greeks, early in the Trojan war: after him is called to this day the Palamede (nxXa/ar,}inv). Nauplia became the seat of Govern¬ ment soon after it fell into the hands of the Greeks, and continued such, until his Hellenic Majesty removed his royal residence to Athens, in December, 1834. The excellence of its port and the strength of its fortresses were the j causes that made Nauplia so long the j capital of Greece; but since the re¬ moval of the government, it has greatly fallen off in prosperity and has not now j much trade. The principal street was planned j in the time of Capo d’lstria. It I divides the town into two equal parts, | connecting the two squares, and termi- I nating at the land gate. On the arrival of the King and the Regency, the town rapidly improved, the streets were I cleared of rubbish, a regular line of ! building was preserved, and Nauplia soon became a neat and cleanly resi¬ dence, with tolerable shops and good- looking houses. The appearance of the inhabitants, the bustle in the shops, and the general air of cleanliness about the town, made it appear the first and most | flourishing city in Greece. The chief square is spacious, and is principally occupied by barracks, restaurants, and coffeehouses. The second square is much smaller ; in it is situated the house formerly occupied by Capo d’lstria, and afterwards converted into a palace for King Otho. The new houses, which have been 258 ROUTE 16. —NAUPUIA. Sect. II. built in the European style, are, gene¬ rally speaking, ill constructed and ill arranged. Here and there projecting roofs and painted word-work show what was once a Turkish house. Before the Revolution very few Christians were allowed to live within the town. The roadstead of Nauplia is one of the best in Greece; it is perfectly protected by both fortresses, and sheltered on all sides, with a great depth of water, and a good anchorage in all parts. Within the port, on a small island, is a ruined castle which, at one time, was used for defence, but is now converted into a prison. The town occupies a space between the sea and the fortress of the Acro- A T auplia; some of the streets being built on the acclivity ascending to this fortress. The confined situation of Nauplia, and the malaria from the marshes, render it unhealthy. The only church worthy of notice is that of St. Spiridion, celebrated as the spct where Capo d’lstria fell by the hand of George Mavromikhali. The National Assembly in 1844 passed a resolution to the effect that a statue shall be erected at Nauplia to Capo d’lstria; but, like so many other projects in Greece, this exists only on paper, and its practical execution has been deferred to the Greek Kalends. There is a monument, however, to Prince Demetrius Hypsilanti, in one of the squares. Previous to the revolution, the town contained only 4000 inhabitants, but before the removal of the court to Athens, the population had augmented to 9000. It is now only 7000. The Fortress of the Palamede stands on the summit of a lofty and precipitous rock, 720 feet above the level of the sea. It is inaccessible on all sides ex¬ cept at one point to the E., where it is connected with a range of barren, rocky hills, and was surnamed the Gibraltar of Greece. It has been deemed im¬ pregnable, and would probably be so with any other garrison than Greeks and Turks. The former, in fact, only obtained possession of it by blockade, and when all the Turkish gunners on the hill, having been reduced by famine to 7, descended to the town by night in search of provisions, the Greeks ap¬ proached and took possession of it; and the standard of the Cross floated on the summit during the remainder of the war. It is asserted that, though the fortress is considered inaccessible, a palikar once reached it by climbing up the face of the rock. The fortifications built by the Venetians are very massive, but in bad preservation; several brass guns still remain ; some of these bear the date of 1687, and the stamp of the Lion of St. Mark. Prodigious cisterns have been hewn in the rock, and mea¬ sures have been adopted for receiving all the rain that falls, which is then conducted into these cisterns, which are so spacious that they will contain an ample supply of water for a garrison for three years. The direct ascent from the town is by a ziz-zag path, cut in steps in the face of the rock. The view from the Palamede is magnificent, embracing the plain of Argos, the moun¬ tains of Arcadia and Sparta, and the beautiful Argolic Gulf. The second fortress, that of the Acro- Nauplia, (or Itch Kali, as it was called by the Turks,) is built on a peninsular rock, rising above the town, at the foot of the Palamede. The summit is en¬ compassed by walls, whose foundations are the only traces of antiquity in the immediate vicinity. Numerous batte¬ ries protect it on all sides. The Vene¬ tians attempted to make it an island, by cutting through the rock and letting the sea flow round it, in which they partially succeeded. The fortifications of the town are all Venetian, and consist of an extensive wall, now much out of repair, with outworks, bastions, &c. One of the chief batteries is called The Five Brothers, deriving its name from mounting five superb Venetian G0- pounders. To visit the Palamede and the Acro- Nauplia, permission must be obtained from the military authorities; but it will be granted on application by the traveller’s servant. This is the chief fortress and garrison of the Greek kingdom. The modern town occupies the site of the ancient Nauplia, one of the most ancient cities in Greece, but deserted at ROUTE 16.-NAUPLIA TO ARGOS. 259 Peloponnesus. the period of Pausanias’ visit. There are vestiges of Cyclopean walls im¬ bedded in the modern fortifications. Nauplia was the port-town of Argos. Several interesting excursions may¬ be made from Nauplia, and a traveller may spend a week here agreeably, pre¬ vious to commencing his tour in the Peloponnesus. The horses at Nauplia are good, and the traveller would do well to hire them here for the whole tour round the Morea, in order to save trouble and delay in the little villages on the road. The usual promenade of the Nauplians is beyond the suburb of Pronia, a village built by Capo d’ls- tria. The gates of Nauplia are closed at T p.m., but the town may still be en¬ tered by taking a boat from the stairs close to the gates. Nauplia to Port Tolon is nearly 2 hours. Leaving the bay of Nauplia, by the road to Epidaurus, the road turns off to the right, and then ascends a steep hill by the sea. On this hill are the foundations of an ancient town and castle, overlooking the port of Tolon. From the summit may be seen an extensive prospect of the Argolic peninsula and gulf, dotted with islets and rocks. There is a colony of emigrated Cretans in the village at Port Tolon. The ancient Asine was probably near the modern village of Tri, S of Tolon. From Nauplia toTripolitza is 9 hours on horseback. There is a carriage-road from Nauplia to Mycenae and Argos; and also from Nauplia to Tripolitza. N.B. Inquire into their state before starting. Steamers run from Athens to Nauplia, and back, twice or thrice a month, remaining about 10 or 12 hours of daylight at Nauplia. The road from Nauplia to Tripolitza winds round the head of the gulf to the Lernean marsh, which may be visited on this route, unless the traveller should prefer crossing the bay from Nauplia to see it, which, with a fair wind, may be done in an hour. A stranger will na¬ turally be desirous of visiting this spot, celebrated in mythology as the place where Hercules destroyed the Lernean hydra. The Alcijonian lake is probably the lower part of the marsh ; towards the southern mills it is still believed by the country people to be unfathomable. It is nothing more than a pool, overgrown with rushes, in the centre of 'he marsh, whence issues a strong current of water. The river Erasmus also issues in a copious stream near this spot from under Mount Chaon, and flows into the Argolic Gulf, turning a number of mills. The cavern from which the Erasinus issues resembles an acute Gothic arch, and extends 65 yards into the mountain. This river is believed to be the same with that of Stymphalus, which disappears under Mount Apel- auron in Arcadia. The water is so particularly clear and good, that vessels invariably lie off the shore to take in a supply. The village near the mills is called Myli, and is especially noted as the spot where Demetrius Hypsilanti, with 600 men, defeated the Egyptian army of double that number. (See Gordon’s History ) After leaving the Lernean Marsh, the road turns to the right, and joins that from Argos to Tripolitza. Nauplia to Argos, by Tiryns and Mycenae, 4 hours 20 minutes. Good carriages and cabriolets can be hired, which will take the traveller to My¬ cenae in 2£ hours. The Argolic plain is confined by a curved barrier of hills on all sides but the S., where it is bounded by the sea. Mycenae lies in the northern apse of j this curve of hills, at a distance of 9 I miles from the head of the Gulf. Hence no more appropriate a designa¬ tion could be devised than that which describes Argos (by which term is ] meant the province as well as the city) as hollow, and Mycenae as lying in a ! recess of the horse-feeding \Argns—■/*«%$ i "fiepytos . The distance of Nauplia from Mycense is about 12 miles. The road passes under the lofty i rock on the S.E. of Nauplia, on which stands the ancient citadel of Palamedes, and leaves on the right, at about a mile N. of Nauplia, the Cyclopean walls of Tiryns. The ruins of Tirynthus, or Tiryns, are situated about 2 miles (^ hour) from the gate of Nauplia, on the main 260 Sect. IT. ROUTE 16.-TIRYNS.-MYCEN7E. road to Argos. Tiryns is fabled to have | been built for Proetus by the Cyclo¬ pes, architects from Lycia, about the year 1379 b.c. The walls are nearly perfect, and the best specimens of the military architecture of the heroic ages, being generally 25 feet thick. The fortress being only j mile in circum¬ ference could only have been the citadel of the Tiryuthii. There was ample room for the town on the S.W. side, where a plain. 200 yards in breadth, sepa¬ rates the ruins from a marsh, which extends a mile farther to the sea. This city was destroyed by the Argives, 4G6 years b.c. “ The ruins of Tiryns occupy the lowest and flattest of several rocky hills, which rise like islands out of the level plain. The finest specimens of Cyclopean masonry are near the re¬ mains of the eastern gate, where a ramp, supported by a wall of the same kind, leads up to the gate. The ramp is 20 feet wide—the gate 15 feet. The wall of the fortress still rises 25 feet above the top of the ramp. The prin¬ cipal entrance appears to have been on the S. side of the S.E. angle of the fortress, where an approach from the plain to an opening in the wall is still seen. The fortress appears to have consisted of an upper and lower en¬ closure, of nearly' equal dimensions, with an intermediate platform, which may have served for the defence of the upper castle against an enemy in pos¬ session of the lower one. The southern entrance led, by an ascent to the left, into the upper enclosure, and by a direct passage between the upper en¬ closure and the east wall of the fortress into the lower one. There was a pos¬ tern gate in the western side. In the east and south walls are galleries in the body of the wall of singular construc¬ tion. In the east wall are two parallel passages, of which the outer one has six recesses, or niches, in the exterior wall. These niches were probably in¬ tended to serve for the defence of the galleries ; and the galleries for covered communications to towers or places of arms at the extremity of them. One of these still exists at the south-west angle. The passage which led directly from the southern entrance, between the upper enclosure and the eastern wall into the lower division of the fortress, was about twelve feet broad. About midway there still exists an im¬ mense door-post with a hole in it for a defence of the interior, we find a great resemblance, not only to Mycenae, which was built by the same school of engineers, but to several other Grecian fortresses of remote antiquity. A de¬ ficiency of flank defence is another point in which we find that Tiryns re* sembles those fortresses; it is only on the western side, towards the south, that this essential mode of protection seems to have been provided. On that side, besides the place of arms at the south-western angle, there are the foundations of another of a semicir¬ cular form, projecting from the same wall fifty yards farther to the north ; and at an equal distance still farther in the same direction, there is a retirement in the wall, which serves in aid of the semicircular bastion in covering the ap¬ proach to the postern of the lower en¬ closure. This latter division of the fortress was of an oval shape, about 100 yards long, and 40 broad ; its walls formed an acute angle to the N., and several obtuse angles on the E. and W. Of the upper enclosure of the fortress very little remains: there is some appearance of a wall of separa¬ tion, dividing the highest part of all from that next to the southern entrance, thus forming four interior divisions be¬ sides the passages. The postern gate, the gallery' of the eastern wall, and the recesses in the same wall are all angular in the upper part; the ancle having been formed by merely sloping the courses of masonry.”— Leake. Tiryns to Mycenae 2^ hours. The road passes by several small villages, and over the Argolic plain. Mycenae.— Near the little village of Charvati are the ruins of Mycenae, once the capital of Agamemnon, built (ac¬ cording to the legend) by' Perseus 1300 years b c., and ruined by the Argives after the Persian war, 486 years b.c. Peloponnesus. route 16. —mycexte. 261 It was built on a rugged height, situ¬ ated iu a recess between two com¬ manding mountains of the range which borders the east side of the Argolic plain. We look with awe on the re¬ mains of a city which was in ruins in the time of Thucydides, and which is now much in the same state as when he, and Pausanias after him, saw it. In visiting it, we seem to he com¬ panions of these two ancient authors. The entire circuit of the citadel still exists, and iu some places the walls are 15 or 20 feet high. Among them are specimens of Hellenic masonry of vari¬ ous ages. The most ancient, although not so massive as those of Tiryns, are built in the same manner. The Citadel is placed on the summit of a steep hill, between two torrents, and below a higher mountain. Its length is about 400 yards The ground rises within the walls, and there are marks of in¬ terior enclosures, indicating a mode of fortifying like that at Tiryns. On the summit are several subterranean cis¬ terns. The citadel had a great gate at the N.W. and a postern at the N.E. The great gate stands at right angles to the adjoining wall of the fortress, and is approached by a passage 50 feet long, and 30 wide, formed by that wall, and another exterior wall parallel to it, which, as it seems to have had no other purpose than the defence of tiie passage, we may suppose to have been a place of arms, and not a mere wall, especially as it commanded the right or unshielded side of those who approached. The opening of the gateway or doorcase widens from the top downwards ; two thirds of its height, or perhaps more, was lately buried in the ruins ; but the gateway has been cleared out, and is now to be seen complete. It is 10 feet in height; in the lintel are marks of bolts and hinges, and the pavement contains ruts caused by chariot-w heels. The width at the top of the door is 9 5 - feet. It was formed of two massive uprights, covered with a third block, 15 feet long, 4 feet wide, and 6 feet 7 inches high in the middle, but dimin¬ ishing at the two ends. Upon this soffit stands a triangular block of grey limestone, 12 feet long, 10 high, and 2 thick, upon the face of which are re¬ presented iu low relief two lions stand¬ ing on their hind legs, on either side of a round pillar or altar, upon which they rest their fore-paws; the column becomes broader towards the top, and is surmounted with a capital, formed of a row of four circles, inclosed between two parallel fillets. This is the cele¬ brated Gate of the Lions. The largest stone iu the wall near the Gate of the Lions measures 7 feet .3 inches by* 4 feet 7 inches. The gate led into the Lower Acropolis. The small gate or postern at the north side of the Acropolis is constructed of three great stones, like the Gate of the Lions, and its approach was fortified as well as that leading to the latter gate. The Treasury of Atreus is a subter¬ ranean dome. It is commonly called the Tomb of Agamemnon. Here we see the storehouse of the wealth of the early kings, w'hich gained for this city the title of the Golden Mycena. We may picture it piled up with cars and armour of curious workmanship, fabled to be the work of Vulcan or the gift of Minerva ; and rich embroidery, bright with purple and gold, from the loom of the princesses of the house of Pelops ; just as the city above is rife with recol¬ lections of Agamemnon, Clytemnestra, Orestes, and Electra. The building was constructed under the slope of the hill towards the ravine of a neighbour¬ ing torrent. An approach, 20 feet in breadth, led through the slope to the door of the building. Before the door¬ way of this passage formerly stood semi¬ columns. The Treasury contains two chambers ; the diameter of the dome of the first is 47 feet 6 inches, the height 50 feet. This is connected by a door with a smaller chamber. Above the entrance door is a triangular window, constructed in the same way as the gallery and its recesses at Tiryns ; the entrance itself is roofed by a single slab 9 yards long and nearly 6 wide. The inner chamber is about 23 feet square ; this, as well as a great part of the passage towards the interior, is not constructed in masonry, but rudely ex¬ cavated in the rock with an arch-shaped 262 ROUTE 16.— ARGOS. Sect. II. roof, though it may be doubted whether it was originally of that form, as the rock is here soft and crumbling. In the middle of the great doorway are to be observed the holes made for the bolts and hinges of the doors, and in the same line a row of smaller holes for brass nails, most of which have been wrenched out, though the points of many still remain. Within the walls are remains of larger nails, of the same kind, in all parts of the edifice, and near the apex are several still projecting from the surface of the stones. Col. Leake says, —“ It is difficult to con¬ ceive for what purpose they could have been intended, except that of attaching some lining to the whole inside of the building, for those near the vortex could not have served for the hanging up armour or other moveables; and it is observable, that traces of the nails, both holes for their reception, and points of the nails themselves, are to be found in every part of the interior sur¬ face : it is evident, moreover, from the highly ornamented semi-columns at the entrance, and the numerous small nails in the doorway, that the structure was finished originally in a most elaborate manner. I am entirely of opinion, therefore, that there were brazen plates nailed to the stones throughout the in¬ terior surface, and it is the more cre¬ dible, as ancient authorities show that it was customary among the Greeks in early times to finish their constructions in this manner: there seems no other mode of explaining the brazen cham¬ bers of which we find mention in the poetry and early history of Greece, particularly that in which Danae was confined at Argos, by Acrisius, and which, according to the sacred guides of that city, was in a subterraneous building still existing in the time of Pausanias, and described by him almost in the same words which he applies to the treasuries at Mycenae.” On the slope of the hill, beneath the Gate of the Lions, is a second treasury which appears to have been smaller than the one which is still entire. Descending thence in the direction of the valley, which leads to the pass of Tretus, half-way down, is the en¬ trance to a third but still smaller build¬ ing of the same kind. Part of its cir¬ cumference still remains above ground. There is a fourth building of the same kind near the crest of the ridge ascend¬ ing from the third treasury. The door¬ way of this building alone remains. From Mycenae to Argos is 1 hour and 50 minutes. A little more than hour from Charvati in the plain is the spot where the Heracum, the famous temple of Hera, or Juno, the great goddess of Argos, stood. The remains were first identified by General Gordon in 1831. They are between 5 and H miles from Argos, which agrees with the 45 stadia of Herodotus (i. 31). The old Heraeum was burnt by accident in B.c. 423; the new Heraeum, described by Pausanias, was built a little below the substruc¬ tions of the ancient one. The emin¬ ence on which the ruins are situated is an irregular platform ; and its surface is divided into 3 terraces rising one above the other. A massive Cyclopean substruction still remains, and there are also masses of Hellenic masonry. General Gordon procured by excava¬ tions a peacock’s tail in white marble. 40 minutes from the remains of the Heraeum the road crosses the bed of a torrent, and, in another i hour, the bed of the Inachas near a ruined bridge. This river is often dry in summer. In 20 minutes more the traveller arrives at Argos ; taking in all 4 hours and 20 minutes from Nauplia, exclusive of the time necessary for examining Tiryns and Mycenae. The plain of Argos is 10 or 12 miles in length, and from 4 to 5 in width. It is cultivated with corn in the dryer parts; where the moisture is greater cotton and vines are grown; and in the marshy parts rice. Its aridity in sum¬ mer explains the epithet of “ thirsty Argos” ( ’zroXu'^ltJsiov "Aoyos). Argos is about 7 miles from Nauplia. by the direct road. It occupies the site and retains the name of the ancient city, but the citadel is now deserted. Argos may be shortly described as a straggling modern town, covering a great deal of ground (all the houses being surrounded with gardens), with a deserted citadel behind it. There are Peloponnesus. route 16, few houses of any size, but it is one of the largest and most flourishing places in Greece. In the revolutionary war it was be sieged several times, and, during the last contest in 1825, it was entirely de¬ populated and destroyed, so that, the scanty vestiges of antiquity which before existed are now mostly obliter¬ ated. The Acropolis, anciently called La¬ rissa, a ruined castle of Lower Greek or Frank construction, occupies the summit of a rocky hill, and still pre¬ serves, amidst its rude masonry, some remains of the famed Acropolis of 1 Argos. They are of various dates; ! some parts approach to the Tirynthian style, and there are some remains of towers which seem to have been an addition to the original Larissa. The Acropolis of Argos is a conical hill, rising nearly a thousand feet above the level of the sea, and connected by a neck of land with a lower platform on the N.E. The former was the old citadel of Phoroneus, and was called by the Pelasgic term for a fortress, Larissa, and also Asp is, or Shield, from its cir¬ cular form, or, according to others, be¬ cause a shield was the insignia of the city. The latter, from the connexion mentioned, was called Deiras, or Neck. The modern castle consists of an outer inclosure and a keep, and the Hellenic work in parts of the walls of both proves that the modern building preserves nearly the form of the ancient fortress, : and that Larissa contained a complete 1 castle within the outer inclosure. The ! masonry of the interior work is a fine I specimen of the second order, being j without any horizontal courses. The | interior of Larissa was a square of 200 feet. The city walls may be traced along j the descent of the hill,particularly of the south-west slope, and along a projecting | crest terminating beyond the theatre. From the ci-adel is a fine view over the plain, embracing Mycenae, Tiryns, Nauplia, and the Inachus to the N. and E., and to the S. and E. the fount of Erasinus, the marsh of Lerna, and the Alcyonian lake. The Theatre is at the southern ex- ,—ARGOS. 263 tremity of the town. It is of large dimensions, partly cut out of the rock by the Greeks, and afterwards restored in brick by the Romans. Its two ends were formed of masses of stone and mortar; these are now mere shapeless heaps of rubbish. There are the re¬ mains of 67 rows of seats in three divi¬ sions. In the upper division are 19, in the middle 16, and in the loveer 32, and more may perhaps be concealed under the accumulated earth. The whole theatre was about 450 feet in dia¬ meter, and the diameter of the orches¬ tra was 200 feet. It could have con¬ tained from 13,000 to 20,000 spectators. Near the S.W. angle of the theatre are 21 rows of seats excavated in the rock. They r could have commanded no view of the interior of the theatre, and there¬ fore must have belonged to some se¬ parate place. It is a very agreeable task to re-people in fancy this theatre with the spectators that once thronged its now desolate seats; to indulge, in short, in the pleasing reverv of the Argive nobleman of olden time, who was wont to dream away his time on this very spot, a sitter and applauder in a vacant theatre ( Horace , Epist. ii. 2). In front of the western wing of the theatre is a Roman ruin of tiles and mortar, with a semi-circular niche at one end and arched recesses in one of the side walls; the other w alls are ruined. Eastward of the theatre is a similar but much smaller ruin, before the mouth of a cavern, the lower part excavated in the rock, and the upper part built of tiles and mortar. At the extremity there is a semi-circular niche, below it a semi-circular platform cut in the rock, and behind the niche a narrow passage of brick, forming a communica¬ tion from without at the eastern corner of the building. It was apparently some secret contrivance of the priests. This ruin, though formed of brick, appears to have been the restoration of some ancient temple, as it stands on a terrace sup¬ ported by an Hellenic polygonal wall, affording a fine specimen of that kind of work. Above the theatre are the remains of a temple of Venus. Half-way up the rock to the citadel is a cave, probably 264 ROUTE 16.-TRIPOLITZA.—MANTINEA. Sect. II. that of Apollo, whence liis oracles were delivered. At the commencement of the revolu¬ tion, the fortress, which had long been neglected, was entirely out of repair, and unprovided with cannon. Yet, in July 1822, Demetrius Hypsilanti de¬ fended it for some days against the awkward efforts of the whole Turkish army under the Pasha of Drama. On this occasion, above 200 shots are said to have been fired by the enemy, of which 3 only struck any part of the building. To the delay occasioned by this operation, the ultimate destruction of the Turkish army may in part be as¬ cribed. Only a few months afterwards Argos was again doomed to become a prey to the ravages of war. Hundreds of houses were overthrown; and the tottering walls alone betrayed the fact of their previous existence. There are two rugged mountain tracks leading directly from Argos to the plain of Mantinea. The more northern was of old called Prinus, the more southern Climax. The carriage road to Tripolitza from Argos leaves the theatre on the right, and continues along the plain beneath the mountains formerly called Lycone and Chaon, to the fount of the Erasinus. The Ler- jiean marsh is to the left. The road then turns to the right and ascends the mountains. At about 1 mile from the Erasinus, and about ^ mile to the right of the road, the remains of a pyramid are found occupying the summit of a rocky eminence. Its site corresponds to that of the sepulchral monuments of the Argives mentioned by Pausanias; but the style of its architecture would lead us to assign to it an earlier date. It is a curious fact that this pyramid should exist here, when taken in con¬ nexion with the legend of the Egyptian colony of Danaus. About 3J hours from Argos, looking back, there is a fine prospect over Nau- plia, the Gulf, and the mountains. At the khan of Daouli the road is joined by a path from Lerna. It then runs W., passing the vestiges of anti¬ quity which mark the sites of the an¬ cient towns of Hysice and Muchli; and, surmounting the ridge of Mount Par- thenium, the traveller looks down on the central plain of Arcadia. It is well cul¬ tivated, but the absence of trees deprives it of that softer beauty which the ima¬ gination couples with the name of Ar¬ cadia. The snow in winter lies deep and long on this elevated plain. Descending from Mount Parthenium, we advance towards Tripolitza, which is near the N. extremity of the plain. 1 hour before reaching the city, to the left of the direct road, at the village of Peali, are the remains of Tegea, which must have been of great extent. There is an old church here called Ppiscope, now in ruins; in the walls of which, and of some of the cottages, many re¬ mains of ancient Tegea are to be found, such as broken columns, friezes, and fragments of architraves; but these, with some inscriptions, are all that now remain of that once important city. Tegea, however, may still contain some of the works of Grecian art, as its deep alluvial soil is favourable for the con¬ cealment of such treasures. Tripolis, or Tripolitza, 9 hours from Argos and Nauplia. Under the Turks it was the capital of the Morea, and a flourishing town of 20,000 inhabitants. Its name is derived from the 3 cities of Tegea, Mantinea, and Pallantium, which were all in the plain, and of which Tri¬ politza became the representative. In its most flourishing days, under the Turks, it possessed nothing to recom¬ mend it, and it is singular that a town, possessing no advantages whatsoever, except central position, standing in the coldest situation in the Peloponnesus, 3000 feet above the level of the sea, and distant from it, should have been se¬ lected by the pasha for his residence. Among all the scenes of desolation presented a few years back in every part of Greece, not one was so desolate as that of Tripolitza. The town has now been rebuilt, and there are fewer ruins of modem buildings here than in most Greek towns. It contains an in¬ different Khan. The population is now only 8000. The Egyptian commander did his work effectually, when he determined not to leave a house standing in this once large and populous capital. When Peloponnesus. route 16.- the Greeks took Tripolitza in 1821, they had put all the inhabitants to the sword in a most barbarous manner; 8000 male Turks are said to have perished in that slaughter, besides women and children, (See the description of the siege and storm in Gordon’s History of the Greek Revolution.') When Ibrahim Pasha re¬ possessed himself of the evacuated city, he signalised his vengeance for such barbarity by destroying literally every house it contained, and left it a heap of ruins. The plain of Tripolitza is about 20 miles in its greatest length, and 10 in its greatest breadth. The surround¬ ing hills are bare and rocky. Water was conveyed to the town by an aque¬ duct, from a little valley to the S. The ruins of Mantinea lie about 8 miles to the N. of Tripolitza, and the road is level and easy, like an English bridle-path. It requires little more than an hour’s ride to reach Mantinea, or it may be visited on the upper route from Argos alluded to above. The site of Mantinea is now called Paleopolis. 1 he road from Tripolitza passes along the foot of the mountains to a projecting point, where a low ridge of rocks ex¬ tends into the plain, opposite to a pro¬ jection of the eastern mountains, thus forming a natural division in it. Pro¬ ceeding onwards, it passes opposite the village of Tzipiana. It then turns to the N. and crosses the plain of Mantinea diagonally, leaving the Kalabryta road to the left. This latter continues to the N. extremity of the plain, where it ascends a ridge, which forms a natural separation between the territories of Mantinea and Orchomenus. Instead of the large fortified city, and the objects which dignified the approach from Tegea, viz. the Stadium, Hippo¬ drome, and Temple of Neptune, the landscape presents only rocky ridges, inclosing a naked plain, without a single tree to represent the wood of oaks and cork-trees called Pelatjus, or the groves and gardens which formerly adorned the plain. Mantinea is situated at the northern extremity of the plain. In the existing ruins no citadel or interior inclosure of any kind is to be discovered. The cir¬ cuit of the walls is entire, with the Greece. -MANTINEA. 265 exception of 4 or 5 towers on the E. side. As no more than 3 courses of masonry exist in anypart above-ground, it seems probable that the remainder of the works was constructed in sun-baked brick. The form of the city was slightly elliptical, and about equal to 1250 yds. in diameter. The number of towers was 118. There were 10 gates, the approach to which was carefully defended in various modes. The cir¬ cuit of the walls is protected by a wet ditch, supplied with water from the river Ophis. The Theatre of Mantinea still exists in part, on the N. side of the inclosure, about midway between the centre of the city and the walls. Its diameter is 240 ft. A part of the circular wall which supported the cavea remains, and is of polygonal masonry. Some foundations of other buildings also re¬ main. The principal renown and chief source of interest connected with this town, is that which arises from its being the scene of one of the most remarkable battles on record, between the Spartans and the Thebans, b.c. 362. The pre¬ cise spot where Epamonidas fell is still pointed out, and sufficient information is conveyed in the pages of history to enable us to determine it with some probability, if not with accuracy. When the hero received his death wound, he was carried to an eminence, afterwards called the watch-tower, ffy.ovn, and continued from thence to direct his troops till he expired. In the time ot Pausanias, a monument existed to his memory, but no traces of it now remain. Yet few travel through the Peloponnesus without turning aside to gaze on the ground consecrated by patriotism and valour, as recorded in the victories of Leuctra and Mantinea, “Those fair daughters,” as his dying words termed them, “ who should trans¬ mit his name to all time.” Hadrian adorned the town with many buildings, and a temple to Antinous. Of Pallantium there are no remains, and it seems probable that it occupied a part of the modern Tripolitza itself. Kiepert, however, places it a little to the S.W. of the town. Pallantium was N ROUTE 16 . -SPARTA. Sect. IT. 266 the city of Pallas and Evander, and is said to have given its name to the ^ Palatine hill at Rome. From Tripolitza to Sparta the road lies at first over the plain, leaving the village of Peali and the ruins of Teyea to the left, and a lake to the right, called Taki, which terminates in a cavern, at the foot of a perpendicular cliff; there is a constant stream running into the mountain through the cavern. The road now follows a ravine, J closely confined between rocky hills, and frequently crosses the torrent, till, 3j hours after leaving Tripolitza, it reaches a Khan, called Rrya 1 rysis, cold spring, from a neighbouring source, the stream from which is joined by another from the mountain to the east. The road coutinues along the ravine, with rocks on either side, but soon turns out of it to the east, and subse¬ quently regaining its former direction, passes through a narrow strait called the Stenuri. Hence the road, descends into a small plain, and passing thence through some narrow ravines and t ocks, where two men can hardly go abreast, the traveller at length reaches the Khan of Vurlia. Vurlia is prettily situated, and commands a beautiful prospect over the cultivated plain, through which the Eurotas meanders, encircling (12 miles lower down) the site of ancient Spaita, while beyond appear the snowy pinna¬ cles and range of Taygetus, under which, built on terraces, on an insulated rock, stands the mediaeval town of Mistra. Sparta was unwalled, but its territory was walled—her walls were her moun¬ tains. On the N. was Mount Mamalus and the huge hills of the Aicadian frontier; on the W., the lofty and continuous range of Taygetus; on the E., her territory was protected by the sea; and within its coast-line, and paral¬ lel to it, it was fenced off by the long bank of Mount Parnon, which runs from the heights of Mount Mmnalus to the Malean^Promontory, and terminates in the insular cliffs of Cythera. The val¬ ley of Sparta itself, with the sea to the S., the Arcadian hills to the N., Parnon to the E., and Taygetus to the W„ is like the hollow ot a stadium— xoikfiv Aomihocipoicc xrirajurtra,)!- ihlS latter epithet is derived from the nu¬ merous ravines and chasms into which the valley of the Eurotas is broken. Vurlia is 3 hours distant from Sparta. After leaving Vurlia, the Eurotas is crossed by a singularly lofty bridge of one arch, and the road passes the re¬ mains of a Roman aqueduct, built about the time of the Antonines. Sparta, 12 hours from Tripolis. This modern town has been built by the Greek government since the revolu¬ tion on one of the hills of the ancient city. The streets are laid out on a magnificent scale, and if they are ever completed, modern Sparta will deserve the epithet of tupuayviu. The Nomarch and other chief functionaries of the dis¬ trict reside at Sparta. There is a small inn or khan. Formerly travellers were lodged at Mistra, 3 miles to the W. ol Sparta, and there is still good accom¬ modation to be had there. The upper town of Mistra is quite deserted, and the castle in ruins; and neither contain any object of antiquarian interest. The castle seems never to have been very strongly fortified, though it is strong from its height and position; it is about 500 feet above the level of the plain ; the hill on 3 sides is extremely steep, and on the fourth perpendicular, and separated from auother rock by a tor¬ rent, which divides the town into two parts. There are the remains of some fine cisterns in the castle. The view from it is splendid ; the eye ranges over the mountains from Artemisium, on the confines of Argolis and Arcadia, to the Island of Cythera (Cerigo) inclusive, together with a part of the Laconic Gulf, just within the island. All the plain of Sparta is in view, except the S.W. corner, which is concealed by a projection of Mount Taygetus. Towards the mountain, the scene is equally grand, though of a different nature. A lofty summit of Taygetus, immediately behind the castle, three or four miles distant, is clothed with a forest of firs; the nearer slopes of the mountain are variegated with the vine¬ yards, corn-fields, and olive plantations. The highest summit of Taygetus, a remarkable peak, is uot much inferior in height to any of the highest points of Peloponnesus. route 16.— sparta. 267 the Peloponnesus, and is more con- called the Tomb of Leonidas, form the spicuous than any from its abrupt whole visible vestiges of Sparta. But sharpness. even these slight remains belonged not A cultivated tract of country occupies to the Sparta of Greece, but to the the middle region ofTaygetus through modern Roman town, which has also its whole length; it is concealed from 1 disappeared in the lapse of ages, leaving the great valley below by a chain of; only the vestiges of the two edifices rocky heights, which immediately over¬ hang the plain, and of which the Castle- hill of Mistra is one. Like that hill, they terminate in steep slopes, or in abrupt precipices, some of which are almost twice as high as the Castle of Mistra, though they appear insignificant when compared with the snowy peaks of Taygetus behind them. They are intersected and separated from one another by the rocky gorges of several torrents, which have their origin in the great summits, and which, after cross¬ ing the upper cultivated region, issue through those gorges into the plain— and then traversing its whole breadth, join the Eurotas flowing under the eastern hills. This abrupt termination ofTaygetus, extending all the way from the Castle of Mistra, inclusive, to the extremity of the plain, forms the chief peculiarity in the scenery of Sparta and its vicinity. Whether seen in profile, contrasted with the richness of the plain, or in front, with the majestic summits of Taygetus rising above it, this long gigantic bank presents a variety of the sublimest and most beautiful scenery, ] such as we hardly find equalled in any j part of picturesque Greece itself. The ruins of Sparta are situated 3 miles to the E. of Mistra, close to the modem town. The path leading to them passes through groves of mul- oerry, olive, and orange trees. Thucy¬ dides says, “In future ages, if Sparta j and Athens should be destroyed, the latter, from the magnificence of its j ruins, would be supposed to have been the greater state of the two and no i prophecy can be more true; a careless traveller, ignorant of the localities, would pass over the ancient site of Lacedaemon without knowing or sus- > pecting that a city had ever stood there : the lands are cultivated — seges ubi Sparta —and on one side of a ploughed i hill is excavated the theatre, which, 1 with the foundations of a small temple, above mentioned. The Theatre. —The Spartans had a | theatre from the earliest times, not for dramatic exhibitions, which were for¬ bidden by the Lycurgan institutions, but for gymnastic exercises and public ; assemblies. Lender such circumstances, a scena like that of the theatre of Athens would hardly be wanted, and accordingly the remains of the scena of the theatre of Sparta are chiefly of brick, and seem to show that it was an addi¬ tion of Roman times. The centre of the building was excavated in the hill, but the ground affords little advantage compared with what occurred in some other Greek theatres, and the wings of the cavea were entirely artificial from the foundation to the very summit of the theatre. The interior diameter, or length of the orchestra, it is impossible to ascertain without, excavation; the breadth of each wing appears to have been about 115 feet; the total diameter about 450 feet, which was probably greater than the diameter of any theatre in Greece Proper, except that of Athens, unless it shall be found that Pausanias is correct in saying that the theatre of Megalopolis was the largest in Greece. Sparta was situated upon hills of small elevation, the E. side, next the Eurotas, being naturally defended by a wall or precipice of rock 50 feet high. The whole city appears to have been about 1 mile long, including five hills. It is probable that antiquities might be discovered were an excavation made in the hill near the theatre. The fertile plains of the Eurotas were formerly subject to the predatory incur¬ sions of the Mainotes, who sometimes left their own province to ravage them, and were much dreaded by travellers. Travelling, however, is now generally safe all over Greece, and as much so in Maina as el-ewhere. It should be borne in mind that the traveller, who wishes to adopt the shortest and easiest route from N 2 2G8 ROUTE 17.—SPARTA TO KALAMATA.—MAIN A. Sect. II. Sparta to Athens, or vice versa, may go from Sparta to Astros, on the Gulf of Nauplia. (See Route 30.) The road runs along the bed of the Eurotas for 5 or 6 hours, and then turns in a N.E. direction towards Astros. It is about 1^ day’s journey. By taking this route the traveller will pass through the dis¬ trict where the Tzaconic dialect is still spoken. (See p. 37.) It is 2 days’ journey from Sparta to Tripolis by Leondari and Sinano (Me¬ galopolis). ROUTE 17. SPARTA THROUGH MAINA TO KALAMATA. Maina .—As early as the reign of Con¬ stantine Porphyro-Genitus, the Eleu- thero-Laconians (who had been enfran¬ chised from the dominion of Sparta by a decree of the Roman senate) had acquired the name of Mainotes, from a place called Maina, near Cape Taenarus. They continued the worship of the Pagan deities 500 years after the rest of the Roman empire had embraced Christianity, and were not finally con¬ verted until the reign of the Emperor Basil (a.d. 867-886). They boast of their descent from the ancient Spartans; and the histories of Leonidas and Ly- curgus, partly as saints and partly as robbers, still figure in their popular traditions. The whole district of Maina, including Kakaboulia, is formed by the branches of Mount Taygetus, and, with the exception of a long tract of low coast, called by the Venetians Bassa Maina, is mountainous, and for the most part barren. Mount Taygetus, famous in all ages for its honey, is formed of a slippery rock, so hard as not to be broken with¬ out difficulty, and bristled with little points and angles, on which the gentlest fall is attended with danger. The popu¬ lation is distributed into small villages, while here and there a white fortress denotes the residence of the chief. Maina was never thoroughly con¬ quered by the Turks, and its inhabitants were as really independent of the su¬ preme government, as the Scotch High¬ lands were down to the middle of the 18th century. They paid only a nomi¬ nal tribute and a nominal allegiance to the Porte. They eagerly joined the Greek insurrection of 1821, and formed as important a part of the insurgent forces as did the Highland clans of the army of Charles Edward. Maina was divided under the Turks into 8 hereditary captaincies, or what in other countries would be termed lairdships, seignories, &c. The govern¬ ment, in many respects, strikingly re¬ sembled the ancient feudalism of Scot¬ land. The jurisdiction was long ad¬ ministered by an assembly of old men, from whom the protogeron (arch senator) was annually chosen. The misbeha¬ viour of the last protogeron led to the abolition of the office; after which period Maina was nominally governed by a bey, chosen by the capitani among themselves, but who received his in¬ vestiture from the Capitan Pasha. In 1776, Maina was separated from the Pachalik of the Morea, and placed, like the Greek islands, under the pro¬ tection of the Capitan Pasha; and on this occasion Tzanetachi Kutuphari was first raised to the dignity of Bey by a firman, which constituted him' chief and commander of all Maina for the Porte. He had not enjoyed this post more than two years, when, having incurred the displeasure of the Capitan Pasha, through the intrigues of his dragoman, he was compelled to quit Kitries, and to take refuge in Zante. Through the intervention of the French ambassador, he obtained his pardon, and returned to Maina, where Mr. Morritt visited him in the spring of 1795. At that time Tzanet Bey, of Mavrovuni, in the canton of Mara- thonisi, enjoyed this invidious office, and he is stated by M. Pouqueville to have held it for 8 years ; at the end of which he was, by rare good fortune, permitted to retire quietly to his patri¬ mony, and to end his days in peace as a capitanos. His successor, Panaghiotti Kumunduro, after holding the office for three years, fell under the displea¬ sure of the Porte, and was, in 1802, a prisoner at Constantinople. His successor was Antony Gligo- Peloponnesus. ROUTE 17. —MAESA. 269 raki, of Vathy; after him came Con-1 reduce them to despair. The terrified stantine Bey ; and at the breaking out (Kumunduro) fled ■with his land forces, of the revolution, the ruling Bey was ! and abandoned the unfortunate Seraskier Pietro Mavromikhalis, afterwards so on the sea-shore. Then if Tzanet Bey celebrated in the annals of the revolu- ' had moved a little, and had not neg- tionary war, and whose son, George! lected the opportunity, Kumunduro Mavromikhali,assassinatedCapod’Istria 1 could not have arrested his flight at in the midst of his guards in October, 1 Kitries, nor at Zarnata,—no, nor at 1831. I Kalamata.” After some reflections on The inhabitants of no district have 1 the ill effects of disunion among the ever been reckoned so ferocious and Mainotes, the ailthor proceeds to treat cruel as those of Mesa Maina, the 5 of the country south of Vitylo. where country of Kakaboulia, or Evil Counsel, he had been a sufferer from Kaka- The following account of this district bouliote hospitality. He thus enume- and its inhabitants is extracted from a rates the 26 villages of Inner Maina :— manuscript, found by Col. Leake in the ! “ The first is Tzimova, a handsome possession of one of the ecclesiastics of | town and large, governed by a captain the Bishop’s family at Mistra, who named Mavromikhali: beyond this place, allowed him to take a copy of it. 1 at the foot of the mountain is a village Tzanet Bey is the hero of the tale, and the poet first describes his character and exploits, characterising him as “ the firm column of his country, the father of orphans, who deserves to govern all called Kuskuni, then Krelianika, Kifi- anika, Pyrgos, Kharia, Dhryalo, Paliok- hora, Krimnos, Babaka, Bryki,Kakiona, Karinia, Kulumi, Mina, Kita the many towered, and Paromia, a village of the Laconia as well as Maina, being hos- same description, Stavri, Kikhrianika, pitable and a great patriot. He has done in Maina,” says the poet, “ what no one else ever did before him; and this I have seen with my own eyes:— A bell marks the hour of supper at his palace. Then all those who hear the bell boldly enter, eat at the Bey’s table, and depart satisfied. He loves the poor and the stranger, defends his province, persecutes the wicked, and pounds them like salt. Thus old and young desire him, all Maina, and all the captains, except the Bey Kutnunduraki of Kitries alone, who lives like a hawk, oppress¬ ing the poor and robbing them of their property, thinking only of feasting with his lady, while all the country groans. He hoped to possess himself of Milea and tyrannise over it, and even to take Marathonisi. Assisted by the Turk, he pretended to frighten Maina and sub¬ ject all its government to himself. He brought an army by land, and a squadron by sea, and from Andruvista began to proceed in order. But the valorous young men, the dreadful captains, op¬ posed him. At Skardhamula the meet¬ ing took place—they sprang upon the enemy like lions, one driving a hundred before him—a hundred a thousand— they scatter them to the winds, and Kunos, Upper and Lower Bolari, Dhry, Kypula, Vathia, Alika. These are the villages of Inner Maina in their order. Its principal produce is quails and Frank figs. There is not a spring of water in all Inner Maina; its only har¬ vest is beans and lean wheat: this the women sow and reap. The women collect the sheaves at the thrashing floor, winnow it with their hands, and thrash it with their feet, and thus their hands and feet are covered with a dry cracked skin, as thick as the shell of a tortoise. Not a tree, or stick, or bough, is to be found to cover the unfortunates with its shade, or to refresh their sight. At night they turn the handmill, and weep, singing lamentations for the dead while they grind their wheat. In the morning they go forth with baskets into the hollows, to collect dung to be dried for fuel; they collect it in the houses, and divide it among the orphans and widows. All the men meantime roam about in the pursuit of piracy and rob¬ bery, or endeavouring to betray each other. One defends his tower against another, or pursues his neighbour. One has a claim upon another for a [murdered] brother, another for a son, another for a father, another for a 270 ROUTE 17.-MAINA. Sect. IT. nephew. Neighbour hates neighbour, gossip gossip," and brother brother. Whenever it happens that a ship, for its sins, is wrecked upon their coast, whether French, Spanish, English, Turkish, or Muscovite, great or small, it matters not; each man immediately claims his share, and they even divide the planks among them. When a stranger happens to go into their coun- try, they declare him a gossip ( compare ), and invite him to eat with them. When he wishes to depart they detain him, un¬ dertake to conduct and accompany him, and then say, ‘ Gossip, reflect upon what we tell you, for it is for your good ; take off your robe and your waistcoat, and your belt, and your trowsers, lest some enemy should take them away from j ou; for if our enemies should strip you, it would bring great disgrace and shame upon us; and this too, my dear little gossip, let us beg of you to leave your skull-cap and shirt, and take off your shoes too, they can be of no use to you. Now you are safe, you need not fear any one.’ When a man dies [a natural death] they lament him as un¬ slain, unbled, unjustified. These are the men who give a bad name to Maina, and render it hateful wherever they go. Let no one salute them, but fly from them as from a serpent. The Tzimo- vites only are worthy men, their man¬ ners and good customs show it,—in appearance merchants, but secretly pirates. May the blast and the drought take them all!” A writer in the “ Allgemeine Zei- tung,” June 1843, states some further particulars of this remarkable race. “ The blood-feuds were carried to such an extent, that they were inherited in families, and even bequeathed at the end of his will by a dying father. His heirs looked as anxiously for the record of the number of murders to be avenged as for the particulars of his property, and when they had accomplished the murders specified in the will, they watered their father’s grave in token of cooling his passions. A child of 8 years of age is mentioned as having been shot * KoviiTt/.P'/is in the original; Italicfe com¬ pare, one who has had the same godfather, a spiritual relationship made much of in the East. because his great-great-grandfather had killed a man of the murderer’s family. Every house was a fortress, and every approach commanded by a loophole, which was so closely watched that no lights were burnt at night, lest the enemy might see the figure pass the aperture. The whole country was a country of towers, perched for the most part on rocky heights or on high ground, so as to command the surrounding terri¬ tory. The lower stories were used as stables, and the upper rooms were ap¬ proached by a door so low as only to be entered stooping. The women alone went abroad to work; the old men and boys stayed at home to watch, and there were instances of men who had never stirred out for 20 years. The watch was kept up night and day, and even with telescopes, which abounded in the district.” In 1834 a commissioner was sent to destroy their castles, and caused an insurrection. The Bavarian troops were totally defeated, but their lives were spared, and satisfactory arrange¬ ments made with the government. Such havi: g been the lawless state of Maina, it is natural that it should hitherto have been but little explored; but the manners of the Mainots are now materially softened. Pietro Bey^ himself before his death lived for years at Athens ; many of all classes of Mainots have entered the army; schools have been established; and travellers who wish to see so rude and poor a country will meet with no interruption. They had better, however, procure letters of recommendation to the chiefs and prin¬ cipal functionaries. We owe our chief knowledge of this curious country, during its feudal state, to Mr. Morritt and to Col. Leake. Mr. Morritt states, that among the chiefs he found men tolerably versed in the modern Romaic literature, and some who were able to read Xenophon and Herodotus, and who were well acquainted with the revolutions of their country. Even their piratical habits seemed to have descended to them from the heroes of the Odyssey and the early inhabitants of Greece. The robbery and piracy which they' exercised indiscriminately', in their roving expeditions, they digni- Peloponnesus. ROUTE 17.—MAIN A. 271 But Mr. the ancient Amyclce may be visited fied by the name of war. But Mr. the ancient Amyc® nwj ue Morritt says, “ If their hostility is (whether at Sclavokhono or Haghia treacherous'and cruel, their friendship Kynake ), also the ruined treasury at is inviolable. The stranger that is Vaphio, and the ancient Hellenic budge within their gates is a sacred title; and near Xerocainpo . 2. From Levetsoba not even the Arabs are more attentive to Marathonist— Roman ruins on the to the claims of hospitality. To pass way—time to examine the remains of by a chiefs dwelling, without stopping Gythium. 3. Ride across the break in to visit it, would have been deemed an Taygetus to Tzimova and Lvm€m. It insult, as the reception of strangers is is a very striking ride. Mav roman is a nrivilece hiehlv valued. While a to the left, and Passava to the right. A len in the mountain is then as- is reached a privilege highly stranger is under their protection, his deep _ safety is their first object-as his suffer- cended, till an eminence ino- any injury would have been an commanding a view both of the Mes- indelible disgrace to the family where seman and Laconian gulls. 4. lake it happened.” He everywhere met a boat to Kalamata. I ravellcrs must with the greatest hospitalitv; and his recollect that the road from Izimova testimony is confirmed by that of Mr. to Kalamata is very dangerous, and Swan, who visited the country in 1825, almost impassable for any horses ex- 30 years after the period of Mr. Morritfs cept those bred in Mama. It is lnex- J 1 pedient to bring other horses into Maina at all. The following is the general tour of the whole S.E. of the Peloponnesus, in¬ cluding the greater portion of the ancient Lacedmmonia:— journey. The religion of the Mainots is that of the Greek Church; but the pre¬ cepts of Christianity are even now but little regarded. Their churches are numerous, clean, and well attended; and their priests have an amazing in¬ fluence, which, until lately, was seldom exerted for any good purpose. The Papas of Maina were not less determined plunderers than the rest of the Mainots, and shared in their expeditions, that they might also share the booty. Mr. Morritt bears testimony to a pleasing feature in their character—viz. their domestic virtue. “ Their wives and daughters, ” says Mr. Morritt, “ unlike those of most other districts in the Levant, are neither secluded, cor¬ rupted, nor enslaved. Women succeed, in default of male issue, to the posses¬ sions of their fathers; they partake at home of the confidence of their hus¬ bands, and superintend the education of their children, and the management of their families. In the villages they share in the labours of domestic life, and in war even partake of the dangers of the field. In no other country are they more at liberty, and in none were there fewer instances of its abuse than in Maina at this period.” Most travellers will be satisfied with what they see of Maina in the follow¬ ing route, occupying 4 days:—1. Sparta to Levetsoba, a short day. On the way Sparta to— Hrs. Min. Mis. Helos . . ... 14 Monembasia ... 9 Phiniki.4 Durali ..... 9 Marathonisi ... 4 Passava.2 Back to Marathonisi, by Paleopolis. Skutari.4 Tzimova • • Kyparisso .... 7 Asomato (Matapan) . 2 Port Kaio .... 1 Alika.2 Tzimova or Limeni . 8 Vitylo.0 Platza (Leuctra) . . 5i Skardamula . . . 3^ Kitries.li Kalamata . . . . 3A o 0 0 0 0 20 40 0 0 40 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 From Sparta to Gythium (Maratho¬ nisi) direct is 9 hours, and most tra¬ vellers will be contented with that route; but if Monembasia is to be visited, the traveller will proceed as is here laid down. From Sparta to Helos is reckoned a journey of 14 hours. The road goes to 272 ROUTE 17.-HEEOS TO Sclavo-Khorio, a pretty village in the midst of olive groves. A few inscrip¬ tions and Doric capitals are found here. Proceeding hence towards the Eurotas, at the distance of 2 m., is a church on an eminence, called Hughia KyriakC. The site of Amyclce, an ancient city of Laconia, is usually placed at Sclavo- chorio, where the name of Amyclse has been found in inscriptions. But it is probable that this was a modern Slavo¬ nian town, and that its houses were erected from the ruins of Amyclse. Accordingly Leake supposes Amyclse to have been situated at Haghia Kyriahd. About 2 hours S. of Sclavochorio the traveller should diverge a little to the right of the direct road, to visit the Hel¬ lenic bridge, near the hamlet of Xero- campo, or Dry-field, situated on the edge of the plain, and on the very roots of Taygetus. A torrent issues from a deep and romantic ravine on the sides of the mountain, and at the spot where it enters on the plain, is thrown from rock to rock a single arch of Hellenic masonry—the stones exquisitely hewn and most symmetrically placed. Per¬ haps, however, the stones may have been taken by the Romans or Byzan¬ tines from some Hellenic building in the neighbourhood. If the bridge is Hel¬ lenic it settles the question about the knowledge of the arch among the an¬ cient Greeks. Col. Mure discusses this bridge at length in the 2nd volume of his Tour in Greece, We now return to the Eurotas, near the banks of which at Vaphio there is a circular edifice, like the treasury at Mycenae. Daphni is seen to the S.; to the W. Taygetus ; to the N. the theatre of Sparta. The road now follows the course of the Eurotas, through the country formerly inhabited by the Bar- douniots, a tribe of lawless Mussulman banditti expelled at the revolution. Helos is a district in the plains on the banks of the Eurotas, extending from the mountain of Bizani to the frontier of Maina, which begins at Trinisa, the ancient Triuasus, so called from three rocky islets here lying off the coast. The villages of Helos are mostly situated on the low hills which encircle the plain ; but some are MONEMBASIA. Sect. II. in the plain itself. SJtala, which stands on the bank of the Eurotas, an hour above its mouth, is so called from being the place of embarkation of the district. The exact situation of the maritime city of Helos, which supplied some of the ships of Menelaus in the Trojan war, is to be found a little to the E. of the village of Durali. The people of Helos were the first reduced to slavery by the Spartans, and their name was afterwards applied to the Messenian serfs also. Helos to Monembasia, 9 hours.—3 miles from Helos, the traveller reaches the foot of Mount Bizani, where some low cliffs overhang a narrow beach: the lower part of the hill is covered with Vallonea oaks. The road then ascends the mountain ; it is very rugged, and much overgrown. Just under the peak of the mountain is a cave, where saltpetre is made by boiling the earth. Under the rock are the tracks of some ancient wheels in the rock. Here is a fine point of view. The road descends to the plain of Phiniki. It is partly grown with corn, but the greater part is pasture land. The road afterwards enters a sort of wilderness, among low heights and narrow barren vales. At the highest part of it is seen to the N.W. the hill of Bizani; and to the E. near the sea, Monembasia. The road de¬ scends through a ravine to the sea, and crossing the bridge which joins Monem¬ basia to the main land, enters the town. Monembasia i. e. ifA.(ha.ris) is so called from its singular situation, which admits only of one approach and entrance on the land side, over the bridge which connects the western extremity of the hill with the main land. The island is about half a mile in length, and one-third as much in breadth; its length forming a right angle to the direction of the main shore. The town is divided into two parts, the castle on the summit of the hill and the town which is built on the southern face of the island, occupying one-third of it towards the eastern end. The town is enclosed between two walls descending directly from the castle to the sea; the houses are piled upon one another, and intersected by narrow Peloponnesus. route 17. —monembasia. 273 intricate streets. Many of the build¬ ings are of Venetian construction. All is now ruinous and desolate. All the coast in sight from the town is an un- cultivable rock. To the S., the coast line is terminated by Cape Chamilo, a low narrow promontory, with a hum¬ mock upon it, supposed to resemble the back of a camel; Cape Malea, or Malia, rises above Cape Chamilo, being exactly in the same line from Monem- basia. To the N., the coast in sight is terminated by Cape Kremidhi, the ex¬ treme point of the Bay of Palea Mo- nembasia. An hour from the bridge on the shore are the ruins of an ancient city, on the cliffs immediately above the beach. The place is called Palea, or Old Mo- nemhasia. They are the ruins of Epi- daurus Limera, and Monembasia is the Minna of Pausanias. The walls, both of the Acropolis and town, are trace¬ able all round; and in some places, particularly towards the sea, they remain to more than half their original height. The town formed a sort of semicircle on the southern side of the citadel. The towers are small. The circumference of the place is less than three quarters of a mile. The town was divided into two separate parts by a wall, thus making, with the citadel, three interior divisions. On the Acro¬ polis there is a level space, which is separated from the remaining part of it by a little insulated rock, excavated for the foundations of a wall. On the site of the lower town, towards the sea front, there are two terrace walls, one of which is a perfect specimen of the second order of Hellenic masonry. Twenty minutes beyond Old Monem¬ basia are some ruined magazines under a peninsula, with a harbour on each side ; that on the S.W. is called the port of Palea Monembasia; that on the N. the harbour of Kremidhi. Epidaurus Limera was a colony from Epidaurus in Argolis, and Strabo derives its surname from the excellence of its harbours (Xittsij*, quasi Monembasia has no harbour. One-third of a mile south of the ruins of Epidaurus is a garden, below which, on the beach, is a deep pool of fresh water, 100 yards long, and 30 yards broad. This seems to be the Lake of Ino. The old citadel of Monembasia is separated from the town by a perpen¬ dicular cliff, to which there is a zig-zag ascent. Above the cliffs is a consider¬ able space of ground, sloping upwards ; and here the castle is placed. Napoli di Malvasia is the Italian name of this singular place. Monembasia to Phiniki is 4 hours. —The road passes along the bed of the torrent Epidaurus to Vilias, a village in a situation like an Hellenic town; agreeing with Pausanias’ description of the site of the Temple of Diana Lim- natis. The road continues S.W. for £ an hour; then turns to the N., into the plains of Phiniki. The Kalyvia of Phiniki are situated midway between the mountains of Phiniki and Bizani. Phiniki to Durali by Cape Xyli is 9 hours.—After crossing a fertile plain in 1 hour, the traveller reaches Blitra, on the E. side of Cape Xyli, which is a high rocky peninsula. On the summit of the hill is one of the towers built to protect the coast. Eastward of the peninsula is a good harbour: \ a mile E. of the peninsula, on the shore, are the remains of some public edifice, and some fragments of Doric columns. The ruins are called Blitra: and there seems no doubt of their being on the site of the ancient Asopos. Descending to the other side of the peninsula, the road reaches Boza, where, near a church, is a small subterranean chamber. From Boza, the road continues along the roots of the Bizani hill, descending sometimes to the beach, and proceeding through the Kalyvia of Bizani, joins the road from Apidhia, on entering the plain of ! Helos; 1-5 hour farther is Durali. Durali to Marathonisi 4 hours.—On leaving Durali, the traveller fords the Kurotas, passes Limona, and arrives at \ an angle where the mountain advances into the sea, near the ruins of a castle. 1 This is the boundary between Helos and Maina. The road passes through I Trinisa, near which are some remains of the walls of Trinasus ; then crosses ! a mountain and marsh, and passing I through the valley ofGythium, leaving t the ruins to the right, ascends the rocky N 3 274 ROUTE 1 7.— MARATHONISI.—SKUTARI. Sect. II. hill, at the foot of which is situated Marathonisi. Marathonisi is a wretched town ; its houses seem to grow out of the rock, being huddled one behind the other on the edge of the sea, and on the slope of a hill above. There is now steam communication once or twice a month between this place and Athens. Near it are the remains of Gythium, called Paleopolis, situated in a valley termi¬ nating in the sea, and enclosed by- mountains, prettily broken, partly culti¬ vated, and partly covei'ed with Vallonea oaks. The town was situated on some low hills, in a small triangular plain, enclosed between them and the sea. On one side of the principal height flows a torrent. Ninety yards inland from the shore are the remains of a theatre, constructed of a semi-transpa¬ rent kind of white marble, of a very coarse grain, and marked with broad parallel streaks of brown. There are several pieces of the displaced seats on the side of the hill which supported the theatre; and below, at one of the angles, a small part of the two lower rows is still in its place. The total diameter appears to have been about 150 feet. There are also some Roman remains of baths, and a long edifice divided longitudinally into two, with an arched roof. Just below the theatre are some foundations of large buildings projecting into the sea, which, it is said, may be traced for a considerable dis¬ tance. The island Marathonisi (i. e. fennel island), anciently called Cranae, is a low rocky islet with a modern tower upon it, and forms a breakwater for the port. Here Paris carried Hekn after iheir elopement; and a dismal refuge for lovers it must have been (Horn. 11. iii. 445). The town Mara- konisi, on the opposite shore, is on the site of Migonium; and the hill above it, Kunaro, is the ancient Larysium. On the left of the road to Paleopolis, Leake found an inscription on the rock, in small and very ancient characters; and behind the latter, on the side of the mountain, a chair with a footstep, hewn in the rock, and resembling the chairs at Athens, in the rocks near the Pnyx. This excavation is probably the position of the Zeus Cappdtas stone of Pausanias. At Mavrovuni, a village mile to the S. of Marathonisi, on a promontory, is a fine view along the shore and into the interior. From Marathonisi to Passava is 2 hours 20 minutes by Mavrovuni. Here is a break in the great mountain-wall of Taygetus, so that you can ride easily in a few hours across the peninsula from Gythium to Tzimova. The hill of Passava is like that of the castle at Mistra. On the summit is a ruined fortress, consisting of a battle- mented wall, flanked with one or two towers, and without any ditch. Within are the remains of gardens and houses, and the ruins of one building of larger size. There are several of the Mainot towers in each of the villages of Maina. They are high narrow buildings with loopholes for windows, and defensible against everything but cannon, as they have generally no door near the ground, but are entered by a ladder pulled up at night. On the eastern side of the castle of Passava, towards the S. end, is a piece of Hellenic wall, where there are, however, no stones so large as those at Tiryus or Mycenae. Passava, from its situation, must have been the ancient Las. The name of Passava is applied to all the coast between Mav¬ rovuni and the hill of Vathy. From Passava to Marathonisi, by Pa¬ leopolis, is 2 hours 20 minutes. From Marathonisi to Skutari is 4 hours 40 minutes. The road crosses the plains of Passava to the hills which bound it on the W. side; it then crosses the hills, and the mouths of two streams, and proceeds to Vathy, where there are some Roman remains, pro¬ bably those of Hypsus or Hypsi. The road then crosses a valley, where vestiges of an ancient site have been found, and ascending a low height, Skutari lies in view. Skutari is a large village on a steep height, overlooking the sea, with Cerigo in front. About 2 hours distant, at Kotronaes, are some ruins, the re¬ mains of Teuthrone. From Skutari to Tzimova is 4 hours 15 minutes, through Peloponnesus. route 17. —kyparisso to asomato. 2,5 the vale of Dhikova , crossing the river of Dlnkova, i mile S. of Kan/opoli, passing under the hill of Rari/opoli, and through a ravine, through which the river of Dhikova passes. The road follows the course of the river, till it dwindles into a small torrent. A very rugged ascent brings the traveller in sight of Viti/lo : the road passes under the precipice of St. Elias, and then descends to Tzimova, a large village 5 mile inland. It has officially changed its name to Areopolis, in honour of the martial Mavromichalis, whose capital it is. It is the residence of the Eparch of Laconia, whose eparchy includes Maina. From Tzimova to Kyparisso, 7 hours. The road descends into a ravine which separates Tzimova from Mid Maina, and leaves subsequently Pyrgos, to the rt.; in 3 hours’ time the road is in a line with another inlet of the sea: an hour afterwards, the traveller is oppo¬ site to Kavo Grosso. Half-way between that extremity and the line of coast which we have been following, is a pro¬ montory called Tigani, with a small bay on either side of it. That to the eastward, which is much the more secure, is called the port of Mezapo ; it is said to be the best harbour on the western coast of Maina. The promon¬ tory of Tigani is not high; its flat summit is surrounded with the remains of an Italian fortification, and it is con¬ nected with the great peninsula of Kavo Grosso by a low isthmus. This is evi¬ dently the situation of the port and Homeric town of Messa. The rock- pigeons which abound in the sea-caves here justify the Homeric epithet of woA. 1 jTf>r,piav. In the central and highest part of Kavo Grosso is a conical height, which marks the site of Hippola. The road passes by Kit a, arid afterwards by Alika, and descending into the bed of a torrent arrives at Kyparisso, once a considerable village, now only containing a pyrgos, a chapel, and a few huts. It stands about five miles from the isthmus of the peninsula of Cape Matapan. Here there are some fragments of columns and inscriptions. Kyparisso to Asomato, 2 hours 40 minutes. The road first follows that to Vathy, hut leaves it in a torrent bed near the sea, and having arrived oppo¬ site the head of Port Marmari, a dan¬ gerous creek, it crosses the neck of land between Marmari and Port Kaio, and which constitutes the isthmus of the peninsula of Cape Matapan. Here the road separates from that leading to Port Kaio. It proceeds in a south east di¬ rection, till it reaches the summit of a ridge commanding a view of Port Kaio and Port Vathy. The west side of the peninsula is occupied by the high rocky land of Cape Matapan. Two small kalyvia, known by the name of Aso¬ mato, stand on the eastern face of the mountain. The name of Asomato pro¬ perly belongs to a ruined church near the shore of a small harbour, close to Cape Matapan, and to this point the path now conducts the traveller. The dedication of the Church is v*7» 1 A ffupMTav, i. e., the Angels. Asomato, like many other dilapidated 1 churches in Greece, has been repa : red in such a manner as to be covered with a roof at the altar, while the remaining walls are in a state of ruin. This altar end is formed in part of Hellenic ma¬ sonry, not quite regular; the stones, though very large, being not all quad¬ rangular. At the end of this piece of Hellenic wall, near the altar, a narrow ancient door remains, which is not apparent from writhin, having been im¬ mured in converting the temple into a church. The church, instead of facing to the E., as Greek churches usually do, faces south-eastward, towards the head of the port, which is likely to have been the aspect of the temple. There can he little or no doubt that it was the celebrated temple of the Taena- rian Neptune. Farther inland are some ancient bottle-shaped cisterns, the largest of which is ornamented with a mosaic of tiles round the edge. | mile south of the port, a low point ' of rock projects into the sea, which the natives say is the real Cape Matapan, 1 the southernmost point of Europe. A 1 more remarkable point than Matapan itself, is that to the S.E., which divides 1 Asomato from Vathy, and shelters the latter harbour from the south; it is ! more separated from the rest of the 276 BOUTE 17.— POET KAIO.-KITKIES. Sect. II. peninsula, but is not so high and steep as the land above Cape Matapan. Leake conjectures that Matapan may be a Doric form of Mer wvov, or forehead. From Asomato to Port Kaio is 1 hour. Leaving the Kyparisso road to the left, the traveller proceeds along the summit of the isthmus, and then winding round the mountain above the port, arrives at the monastery called the Virgin of Port Kaio. Port Kaio or Quaglio (so called from the number of quails that alight here in the annual migrations) is a beau¬ tiful circular harbour, with a fine sandy bottom, and depth of water for large ships, except at a shoal between the southern point of the entrance and the shore. On a height opposite the monastery are the ruins of a square fortress of the same period as that of Passava, This is the fortress of Maina, which has given its name to the Taena- rian promontory. A town stood here in the Middle Ages. Port Kaio to Alika,, 2 hours, leaving Kyparisso on the left. Alika to Tzimova is 8 hours. Limdni is the port of Tzimova, and is 2 miles distant. It consists of a few magazines and two towers, one of which was the residence of Pietro Bey, one of the most illustrious of the Greek patriots. Vitylo is 2 miles from Limeni, and stands to the N. of the E. branch of the harbour, on the brow of a steep hill, separated from the hill of Tzimova by a deep glen. It is the site of the ancient CEtylus. Mr. Morritt, who visited Yitylo in 1795, observed many remains of Hellenic walls. At the church he found “ a beautiful fluted Ionic column supporting a beam at one end of the aisle, three or four Ionic capitals in the wall of the church, and on the outside of the church the foundations of a temple.” This was probably the temple of Serapis, mentioned by Pausanias, and which, perhaps, having been con¬ verted into a church on the establish¬ ment of Christianity, has remained in that state to the present day. All the Mainotes believe that the Buonaparte family are the same with the clan Kalomdros of Vitylo, and that they merely translated their Greek name on settling in Corsica. Leake believes in the Corsican colony in the 17th cen¬ tury, but thinks Buonaparte an older Italian name. Vitylo to Platza, is 5J hours. This is a small hamlet near the ancient Leuctra, but containing few vestiges of antiquity. An isolated rock close to the shore was probably the ancient Acropolis of Leuctra, as there remain some relics of antiquity upon it. The demus is now called that of Leuctra, and Platza is its chief palace. Platza to Skardamula, the ancient Cardamyle, is 1^ hour. Behind the village of Skardamula is a small rocky eminence, on which are some remains of the Acropolis. Just enough re¬ mained to point out the situation ; the rock itself was split by a deep chasm, ascribed by tradition to an earthquake. At the foot of this rock was long seen a heap of stones, the monument of Turkish invasion, which the inhabitants point out with all the enthusiasm of successful liberty, such as may have been witnessed and remembered among the Swiss, on showing the monuments of their former glox-y, the pledge of their enduring independence, and the bond of their national affections. The direct road from Skardamula to Kala- mata passes by the village of Malta, leaving Kitries to the left. Malta is prettily situated in a hollow, with a ruined castle above. It is 4 hours from hence to Kalamata. From Skardamula to Kitries is 3^ hours. The country is laboriously culti¬ vated, but is stony and barren. The southern district of Maina, S. of Tzi¬ mova, is so sterile and of so forbidding an aspect that the ancient poets repre¬ sented it as the portal of the infernal regions (“ Tsenarias etiam fauces alta ostia Ditis”); but between Tzimova and Kalamata there is a large popula¬ tion, and numerous villages with groves of olives and cypresses, and crowned with towers and with churches of the graceful Byzantine architecture. The men still go about armed. Kitries stands upon a rock deeply embayed within surrounding mountains. The northern shore presents a series of natural terraces rising one above the Peloponnesus. route 1 1 .—kitries. 277 other. There is great depth of -water in the hay, even up to the very rocks, so much so, that it is necessary to secure vessels by a hawser attached to the shore. The place abounds with citron-trees, whence its name. At the time Kitries was visited by Mr. Morritt it was the residence of Tzanetachi Kutuphari, formerly Bey of Maina, and of his niece Helena, to whom the property belonged. Their house con¬ sisted of two stone towers, resembling the old towers on the borders of Eng¬ land and Scotland ; a row of offices for servants, stables, and sheds, surrounded a court, to which the entrance was through an arched gateway. Mr. Morritt gives the following interesting account of the hospitable reception he experienced. “ On our approach, an armed re¬ tainer of the family came out to meet us, and spoke to our guard, who at¬ tended us from Myla. He returned with him to the castle, and informed the chief, who hastened to the gate to welcome us, surrounded by a crowd of gazing attendants, all surprised at the novelty of seeing English guests. "W e were received, however, with the most cordial welcome, and shown to a com¬ fortable room on the principal floor of the tower, inhabited by himself and his family ; the other tower being the resi¬ dence of the Capitanessa, his niece, for that was the title which she bore. Tzanetachi Kutuphari was a venerable figure, though not above the age of fifty six. His family consisted of a wife and four daughters, the younger two of which were children. They inhabited the apartment above ours, and were, on our arrival, introduced to us. The old chief, who himself had dined at an earlier hour, sat down, how¬ ever, to eat with us, according to the established etiquette of hospitality here, while his wife and the two younger ^children waited on us, notwithstanding our remonstrances, according to the a ' custom of the country, for a short time ; then retired, and left a female servant to attend us and him. At night, beds and mattresses were spread on the floor, and pillows and sheets, embroidered and composed of broad stripes of muslin and coloured silk, were brought in. The articles, we found, were manufac¬ tured at home by the women of the family.” The beauty of the women is remark¬ able in this part of Maina; with the fine features of Italy and Sicily are united the auburn hair and delicate complexions of colder regions. After dinner the following day Mr. Morritt was presented to the Capitanessa He¬ lena. He says: — “An audience in form from a young woman, accom¬ panied by her sister and a train of at¬ tendant females, in the rich and elegant dress of the country, was a novelty in our tour, and so unlike the customs which prevailed but a few miles from the spot, that it seemed like enchant¬ ment. The Capitanessa alone was seated on our entrance, who, when she had offered us chairs, requested her sister to sit near her, and ordered coffee and refreshments to be brought. The Capitanessa was a young widow, and still retained much of her beauty ; her manners were pleasing and dignified. She wore a light blue shawl-gown em¬ broidered with gold, a sash tied loosely round her waist, and a short vest with¬ out sleeves, of embroidered crimson velvet. Over these was a dark green velvet Polonese mantle, with wide and open sleeves, also richly embroidered. On her head was a green velvet cap, embroidered with gold, and appearing like a coronet; and a white-and-gold muslin shawl, fixed on the right shoul¬ der, and passed across her bosom under the left arm, floated over the coronet, and hung to the ground behind her. Her uncle’s dress was equally magnifi¬ cent. He wore a close vest with open sleeves of white-and-gold embroidery, and a short black velvet mantle, the sleeves edged with sable. The sash which held his pistols and his poniard was a shawl of red and gold. His light blue trowsers were gathered at the knee, and below them were close gaiters of blue cloth with gold embroidery, and silver gilt bosses to protect the ancles. When he left the house, he flung on his shoulders a rich cloth mantle with loose sleeves, which was blue without and red within, embroidered with gold 278 ROUTE 17. -RETRIES. in front and down the sleeves in the most sumptuous manner. His turban was green and gold; and, contrary to the Turkish custom, his grey hair hung down below it. The dress of the lower orders is in the same form, with neces¬ sary variations in the quality of the materials, and absence of the orna¬ ments. It differed considerably from that of the Turks, and the shoes were made either of yellow or untanned leather, and fitted tightly to the foot. The hair was never shaved, and the women wore gowns like those of the west of Europe, instead of being ga¬ thered at the ancles like the loose trowsers of the East. In the course of the afternoon we walked into some of the neighbouring villages: the inha¬ bitants were everywhere dancing and enjoying themselves on the green, and those of the houses and little harbour of Kitries, with the crews of two small boats that were moored there, were em¬ ployed in the same way till late in the evening. We found our friend Zane- tachi well acquainted with both the an¬ cient and the modem state of Maina, having been for several years the bey of the district. From him I derived much of the information to which I have recourse in describing the manners and principles of the Mainotes. He told me that, in case of necessity, on attack from the Turks, the numbers they could bring to act, consisting of every man in the country able to bear arms, amounted to about 12,000. All of these were trained to the use of the rifle even from their childhood, and after they grew up were possessed of one, without which they never ap¬ peared ; and, indeed, it was as much a part of their dress as a sword formerly was of an English gentleman. There are fields near every village, where the boys practised at the target, and even the girls and women took their part in this martial amusement.” Kitries was afterwards the occasional residence of the far-famed Pietro Bey Mavromikhali, who is thus described by Mr. Swan in 1825 :— “ A goodly personage, corpulent and short. His features expressed extreme good nature, but not much understand- Sect. II. ing. His eyes project; his face is broad and chubby; and his mustachios, by undue training, unite with his whis¬ kers, which are clipped above and below, but suffered to run wild in the centre, and are therefore drawn out to a prodigious length. He wore an Al¬ banian dress, begirt with a splendid shawl of rich gold embroidery; a silver- gilt pistol, highly chased, was attached to his belt. His presence was that of a respectable old gentleman, of about fifty years of age, over whom the finger of care has moved lightly, leaving none of those impressions which prey upon and overpower the mental energies. He was attended by a number of mili¬ tary chiefs, in a common sort of cham¬ ber, for the appearance of which he thought it necessary to apologise. It was a barrack, he said; his house was upon Capo Grosso, where his family then resided. We were called to dinner,” continues Mr. Swan, who gives the account, “ at five o’clock; and, though a fast-day with our worthy host, he entertained us sumptuously, while he abstained himself. As the night drew on, a dependant with a long black beard held over us a lighted lamp, and stood like a statue the whole time we were eating. This again re¬ minded us of ancient Highland torch- bearers, an instance of which, if I mis¬ take not, we find in the ‘ Legend of Montrose.’ Soups and fishes in every form, all excellently cooked, with country wine of admirable flavour, were abundantly supplied. At eight our couch was spread (for we were to start at daylight) where we had dined. That part divided from the rest, and called the divan (it had once, doubtless, been a Turkish residence), with the space between, was occupied by our company, including the Greek and Turk who travelled under our escort. On the left of the entrance was a small door leading to a kind of balcony which overlooked the sea. Here, with the clear blue sky for a canopy, and the murmuring ocean for their lullaby, our host had deposited the females of his family, among whom was an Arab slave, the most comely-looking creature of the kind that I have seen. Close Peloponnesus, routes 18, 19. sr by, in our own apartment, the Bey took up his rest. Two other Greeks, his attendants, lay on the side opposite to him, where stood a lamp, suspended from a short wooden stick. Over the partition forming the divan was a small recess, in which the Panaghia (all holy, applied to the Virgin) slumbered, or watched over her votaries, assisted by a lamp of oil, lighted up as the dusk approached, and secured by a small glass door, covering the recess. The party were extended on mats in various parts of the room, the walls of which were decorated with weapons. Our old host having divested himself of his skull-cap, outer drawers, and jacket, lay along his mat, in the shape of a huge mound, swelling gradually to the apex. His secretary kneeled beside him, armed with pen, ink, and paper, and employed in scribbling the de¬ spatches he was dictating for Coloco- troni, and the captains we were likely to meet. The lamp stood near them, and cast a strong gleam on their coun¬ tenances, made more picturesque by the long hair of the Bey, which swept the ground as he reposed.” Leaving Kitries, the road lies along the coast for 1^ hour, and then enters a glen, and after a rocky ascent, whence the snowy summits of Taygetus are seen, it passes, i hour afterwards, a furious stream, rushing out of a cavern. After passing through a ravine close to the sea, the traveller crosses the boun¬ dary of the Mainote territory, and in 1 hour more reaches Kalumatu, 3j hours from Kitries (Route 19). ROUTE 18. SPARTA OVER MOUNT TAYGETUS TO KAEAMATA. 14 hours. This is a magnificent route, but the track is difficult and even dangerous in the best season, and at other times is I nearly impracticable. The traveller goes from Sparta to Mistra, and thence to Stavro, whence begins the ascent over the central ridge of Taygetus. From the summit there are splendid ART A TO KALAMATA. 279 prospects over both the Laconian and the Messenian Gulfs. The descent is by Sitsova and Kutzava to Kalamata. This route leads the traveller into the heart of the wildest scenery of Tay¬ getus; but it should not be attempted except in the finest and clearest weather. ROUTE 19. SPARTA BY MESSENE TO KALAMATA. Hrs. Min. Sparta to Leondari .... 9 30 Leondari to Mavromati (Messeue).8 0 Mavromati to Andrussa . . 2 30 Audrussa to Nisi.1 30 Nisi to Thuria.2 0 Thuria to Kalamata ... 2 15 From Sparta to Leondari is a long and fatiguing journey of from 9 to 10 hours, through a wild and wooded region, being in fact a ridge of moun¬ tains, a continuation of Taygetus, which are frequently covered with snow, and supply the sources of the Eurotas which flows to the E. side, and of the Pamisus and Alpheus to the W. The whole ride is exceedingly beautiful and pic¬ turesque. The road is a continued ascent into the mountains, from the banks of the Eurotas, and on reaching a high ridge overlooking the plain the traveller is disappointed at not being able to see the town of Leondari; but on turning sharp round a prominent point of the hill is agreeably surprised to find it close at hand, planted on the other side of the ridge on which he has been tra¬ velling. Leondari is placed in a most com¬ manding position at the top of a hill terminating the chain of Mount Tay¬ getus to the N., and commands a narrow pass, separating Arcadia from the Mes¬ senian territory. It was considered a position of much importance during the late war, on account of the manner in which an army passing through the defile would be exposed to the enemy at Leondari. Unfortunately the Greeks turned this advantage to but little ac¬ count; Colocotroni, who commanded 280 ROUTE 19. — SPARTA TO KALAMATA.—MESSEXE. Sect. IT. here, offering no opposition to Ibrahim Pasha in his passage through it, when he might have annihilated his army. From Leondari to Mavromati 8 hours. The descent is steep, and about A of au hour from Leondari the road crosses the wide bed of a torrent called the Xerillo Potnmo, which rises out of the branches of Taygetus, and joins the Alpheus. The valley of Xerillo Potamo to the left is beautifully wooded; on the right is the lofty mountain Hellenitza. The road passes through fine oak woods and forests. About 1 hour from Leondari the road falls in with that from Tripolitza to Arcadia, &c.; 10 min. farther is a tu¬ mulus, which was perhaps the boundary mark of the Arcadians and Messe- nians. The descent continues through a beautiful winding glen, whence Mount Ithome is seen. The view in front of the plains of Messenia, bounded by the Gulfs of Coron and Navarino, is splendid. The khan of Sahona stands at the foot of the mountains of Macryplagi. It is only suited for a midday’s repose, and is to be avoided as a resting-place for the night. One hour from Sakona the road crosses that to Scala, and in another hour passes over two confluents of the Pamisus; 45 min. afterwards the ascent of Mount Ithome is commenced. It is very steep and difficult, though highly beautiful; the trees and shrubs arching over the path. The oak-trees are re¬ markably fine, their giant arms stretch¬ ing out horizontally about 6 feet above the ground, and frequently as large as the trunks of the trees themselves. Mavromati (Messene) is a wretched village, and a traveller would find better accommodation in the monastery of Vurkano on the N. side of Mount Evan, 1 hour’s journey from the ruins. Mavromati contains about 20 houses or huts, situated on either side of a fine spring, from which the village derives its name, meaning Black Spring, or literally Black Eye. A copious stream, issuing from it, descends through the centre of the ancient site in a south¬ westerly direction. The village stands j exactly at the foot of the steep hill of ; Ithome, and nearly in the centre of the j inclosure of the city of Messene. The | fountain is undoubtedly the ancient Clepsydra, or Water of Secrecy. The ruins of Messene are magnificent specimens of the grandeur and solidity of the Hellenic military architecture. The Northern Gate is a double gate formed of immense blocks of stone, beautifully fitted, opening into a cir- | cular court 62 feet in diameter, in the wall of which, near the outer gate, is a 1 niche on each side, for a statue, with an ! inscription over it. The interior ma¬ sonry of the circular court is very j beautiful and exact. The soffit stone of the inner door has been thrown down, so as to rest against the side of the gate¬ way, and gives a clear idea of the grandeur of the original works: it is 18 feet 8 inches long; in the other two dimensions it is 2 feet 10 inches and 4 feet 2 inches. The works consisted of a wall or rampart, with square tow¬ ers at certain intervals, very like the fortifications of the Middle Ages in western Europe. There were originally at least 30 of these towers; 9 were standing a few years since, and seven may be still counted rising above the level of the walls, and in some both stories remain; but on the southern, or seaward side, the foundations only of the walls now exist. It is not one of the least interesting circumstances of these ruins, that we know Messene to have been built under the orders of Epa- minondas. After the battle of Leuctra he re-established the power of this city as a check on the ambition of Sparta. The two towers next to the gate on the slope of Mount Ithome present a beautiful view as they rise above the woods. These towers, which, with the interjacent curtain and the one towards the gate of Megalopolis, are in better preservation than the rest of the walls, show that this part of the fortification resembled a chain of redoubts. A flight of steps behind the curtain led to a door in the flank of the tower at half its height. The upper apartment, which was entered by the door, had a range of Peloponnesus, route 19. —sparta to ka lam at a.—andrussa. 281 loopholes, or embrasures, on a line with ' Epaminondas, who had laid low the the door, looking along the parapet of power of-Sparta on the field of Leuctra. the curtain, and was lighted by two Amid the sound of music and sacred windows above. The embrasures, of pomp of procession and sacrifice, the which there are some in each face of Messenians rebuilt the city of their an- the towers, have an opening of 7 inches [ cestors. It still retained the evidence within, and of 3 feet 9 inches without, of its former power in the time of Pau- so that, with a small opening, their ( sanias, who judged its fortifications far scope is very great. The windows stronger thau those of such towns as appear to be too high for any purpose Byzantium and Bhodes. In B.c. 183, but to give light. Both the curtains Philopcemen, ‘"the last of the Greeks, and towers in this part of the walls are was taken prisoner before these walls, constructed entirely of large squared and cast into a dungeon where he blocks, without rubble or cement. The died. curtains are 9 feet thick. The inner i Ascent of Blount Ithome. 2 hours face of the towers has neither door nor 20 minutes.—The ascent is very steep window. The tower next to the gate to the summit of. the mountain; and of Megalopolis has had all the stones from abrupt acclivities and the rugged- disjointed, like those of the PropylEea ness of the path, is not entirely free at Athens, probably by an earthquake, from danger. But the beautiful view A portion of the ancient pavement still from the summit amply repays the tra- exists. Of the Stadium there are re- , veller for the difficulty of the ascent, mains of the upper or circular end, and Before him lie the rich plains of Mes- more than half of one of its sides. At sene, bounded by the sea ; the whole the lower end are ruined fragments of ( chain of the mountains of Arcadia and a small Doric temple, which lie together Maiua, from one extremity to the.other, in a confused heap. Taygetus rising conspicuously in the The monastery of Vurkano, situated centre, crowned with eternal snow. ontheN.E. slope of Mount Evas , which j Upon the highest point, at the edge of is connected by a sharp ridge with | a precipice, stands a deserted convent, Alount Ithome, is a large building, com- I upon the site of the Temple of Jupiter ; manding a noble view of the gulf and and traces of the ancient city may here plain. It is not wonderful that the be discovered. Spartans were covetous of a neighbour- Mavromati to Audrussa is an agree¬ ing land so superior to most of their able ride, and a gradual descent of own. In b.c. 724 they took Ithome, j 2j hours. About half way between the acropolis and capital of Messenia. J Mavromati and Andrussa are a Greek In 685 the war was renewed under 1 church and convent, in a secluded val- Aristomenes, who fortified himself in ley, which miraculously escaped de- Ira among the fastnesses of Mount struction during the war. Lycaum. During many years he Andrussa was a poor town, formerly performed those wonderful feats of inhabited by 250 or 300 Turkish fami- courage, and saved himself by those ' lies, and only 3 or 4 Greek. It was marvellous escapes, which made him [totally destroyed during the late war; the national hero of Messenia. But in \ and nothing remained but roofless 668 Ira fell into the power of Sparta as houses, mosques and churches, and, Ithome had done before. Nothing re- | with the exception of one family,it was mained for the conquered Messenians j entirely destitute of inhabitants.. The but to become Helots or exiles. Many history of this solitary family is sin- fled beyond the sea, and settled in [ gular. A Turkish girl, the daughter of Sicily, Italy, and Africa; but enough a rich proprietor, escaped the general remained behind to make Sparta the I massacre; and was taken, when very mistress of 200,000 slaves. After an [ young, to the Ionian Islands. She absence of three centuries, their de- j became a Christian, married a French- scendants were recalled b.c. 370 by man, and returned to Greece, where 282 ROUTE 19.-NISI TO THURIA. Sect. II. she claimed and obtained from Capo d’Istria the restoration of her inheri¬ tance, where she and her family have since resided. Andrussa is well situ¬ ated on an elevated platform, overlook¬ ing the valley of Stenycleros, and the plains of Nisi. It was a favourite resi¬ dence of the Turks, and used by them as a depot for the productions of Mes- senia. Many rich merchants of Con¬ stantinople had country houses here. The town has now been partly rebuilt. Andrussa to Nisi I 3 hour—On leav¬ ing Andrussa, the descent continues for J an hour ; and then the road continues along the plain to Nisi, a large and flourishing village, on an eminence f mile from the right bank of the Pamisns, which is crossed by a wretched wooden bridge. It suf¬ fered much in the late war; but many houses have since been rebuilt. A bazaar, formed of wooden shops, was established by the French army of occupation after the battle of Navarino ; but its cafds, billiards, and cabarets have disappeared with the French troops. It presents a striking contrast to the other deserted districts; the town being surrounded with gardens, vine¬ yards, mulberry trees, pastures, and cornfields. The situation, in conse¬ quence of the neighbouring marshes and the irrigation of the fields, is un¬ healthy. The French troops here were visited by feveis and agues, aggravated by their imprudence in exposing them¬ selves to the hot sun during the day, and the damp at night, added to their unlimited indulgence in raki, wine, and the fruits in which the country abounds. A stranger should not allow himself to be induced to remain here long during the great heats. In summer, it is possible to cross the plain directly between Nisi and Kalamata in 2j hours, thus avoiding the circuit by Camuri, but this is im¬ possible when the rivers are swollen, as the whole plain then becomes a marsh. From Nisi to T/iuria ( Paleo-kastron), 2 hours. Crossing a bridge, the road traverses the plain to Carnari {"the ancient Kalamse), a village situated on an acclivity of a chain of mountains, of which Taygetus forms part. It then continues to another village in a similar position, where the traveller may leave his horses, and climb the ascent to visit the ruins. There are several remains here of Cyclopean architecture, extending for half a mile along the summit of the hill. Nearly in the centre of the ruins is a quadrangular cistern, 10 or 12 feet deep,cutout oftherockat one end, while the other sides are of regular masonry. The cistern was divided into three parts by two cross walls; its length is 29 paces, the breadth half as much. It is now much overgrown with briars and shrubs. To the north of this ruin, on the highest part of the ridge, which is here very narrow, are the remains of a Doric temple, whose fluted columns lie scattered about. There are many other foundations and fragments of columns on the summit of the hill, and interest¬ ing discoveries would probably repay the expense of excavations. Some re¬ mains of walls on the slope seem to have supported terraces of public edi¬ fices. According to Pausanias, Tburia was called by Homer Anthea, and in¬ curred the displeasure of Augustus for its adherence to Mark Antony. On this account he treated it with rigour, and gave it up to the Lacsedemonians, who descended into the plain and fixed their abode there, without entirely deserting the upper city. The river Aris, men¬ tioned by him as dividing the city, is now a small stream, diverted from its channel for the purposes of irrigation. About amile from PaUd-kastron, in the valley, are the ruins called Palea Lutra, a fine Roman building. The walls of brick and mortar are in a good state of preservation, and part of the arched roof remains. The plan does not seem to be that of a bath only, as the name would imply, though there are many appearances of the building having con¬ tained baths: it seems rather to have been the palace of some Roman go¬ vernor. As there are no sources of water here, it is to be supposed that the building was supplied by an aqueduct from a neighbouring stream. The building is a very picturesque object, Peloponnesus, ete. 20. kalamata to messene.— 21. cyparissia. 283 and stands in a grove of olive, fig, and ! mulberry trees. Tliuria to Kalamata 2| hours.—The road, which runs along the foot of the lower range of Macryplagi, winds through groves of olive, fig, and mul¬ berry trees ; the plains below are fertile and rich, and the path shaded by high hedges of Indian fig, myrtles, fig trees, cypresses, and vines. This district was laid waste by Ibrahim Pasha, but much of its prosperity and beauty has been restored. Kalamata affords good accommoda¬ tion for travellers, although its hotel and various cafds and restaurateurs have disappeared with the French troops. It derives its name from the ancient Kalamcc, which stood about 2 miles inland. The town is about a mile from the sea, on the left bank of a torrent flowing from Mount Taygetus. A hill rising behind the town is crowned w ith a ruined castle of the middle ages, and is strengthened by a perpendicular cliff towards the tor¬ rent. It is supposed that Kalamata is on the site of Phera, one of the maritime cities in the time of the Trojan war; but it contains no vestiges of antiquity. The chain of lofty mountains, which protects the town from the N.E., renders the climate one of the mildest in Greece. Here the blast of winter is unl'elt, w r hile the heat of summer is never oppressive. The roadstead of Kalamata is only fit for the summer months. The environs were well wooded before the war, but the trees were cut down, or sawed across about 3 feet from the ground, when Ibrahim Pasha ravaged the plain. The town was set on fire, but escaped better than some others, and owing to the near neighbourhood of the fierce Mainotes, the Egyptians remained but a short time in occupation of it. In many places the groves have been replanted, and young trees have been trained up from the old roots. Kalamata formerly carried on a con¬ siderable trade in oil, silk, figs, &c„ and, in consequence of the rapid growth of the new plantations, the export of these articles has been resumed, and forms an important branch of trade. ROUTE 20. KALAMATA TO SAKONA AND MESSENE. Hrs. M. Kalamata to Scala . . . .415 Scala to the Khan of Sakona . 1 40 Sakona to Mavromati (Messene) 4 0 From Kalamata to Scala is 4 hours and 15 min. The traveller proceeds to Paha Lntra (the Roman baths), and then leaves Paled-kastron (Thuria) to the right. The road crosses a bridge over the Pidldma (Aris) ; 40 min. afterwards it reaches a magnificent source, forming the right branch of the Pamisus: it continues over the plain to the founda¬ tion of a small temple, below which are a rock and fountain, the source ot the Pamisus. Scala is situated on a low ridge, which crosses from Mount Macryplagi directly towards Mount Ithome. Turn¬ ing westward from this village, and crossing the river Mavrozumeno (the ancient Balyra), the traveller soon reaches Mavromati and the ruins of Messene. Scala to Sakona is 1 hour and 40 min. To the right, about 10 min. from Scala, are some curious strata of rocks ; a little farther to the right are some hills, with remains of antiquity ; near this to the right is an insulated rock with a church on it, and a cave below the church. Mount Bala bounds the plain to the right. 25 min.afterwards are seen across the plain some ruined towers on a hill; the road crosses another stream from the right, and proceeds northwards to Sahona across the Stenyclerian plain. Sakona. See Route 19. Sakona to Mavromati is 4 hours. See Route 19. ROUTE 21. kalamata to cyparissia ( Arcadia ) by pylos ( Navarino ). Kalamata to Nisi .... Hours. . . 3 Nisi to Navarino (Pylos) . . 10 Navarino to Modon . . . 2 Modon to Coron .... . . 5 284 ROUTE 21. -NAVARINO. _ Hours. Return to Navarino ..... 7 Navarino to Arcadia. 11 Another arrangement of this route and of the preceding, is the following : Kalamata to Coron, Coron to Modon, Modon to Navarino, Navarino to Messene ; an extremely beautiful ride, and Messene to Arcadia, remaining at Kalamata or Nisi, and making an excursion to the objects in the plain of Messenia. Kalamata to Nisi 3 hours. (Route 19.) v Nisi to Navarino about 30 miles, and occupies nearly 10 hours. This jour¬ ney is a tedious one, for the intervening plains are frequently completely inun¬ dated, which renders travelling at all times difficult, and it often occasions a complete cessation of intercourse be¬ tween Nisi and Navarino. The herb¬ age, mixed with a profusion of white clover, is most luxuriant, and the district extremely productive. On quitting the plains of Nisi a gradual ascent terminates in a summit, whence there is a fine view of the bays of Coron and Kalamata, the plains be¬ neath, and the mountains of Maina and Arcadia. The Khan of Misha, about half way between Nisi and Navarino, is the usual resting-place. The tra¬ veller fords a river on approaching the Khan; the banks are thickly clothed with arbutus, rhododendrons, and a variety of aromatic plants. A wide spreading platanus contiguous to the Khan affords delightful shade. The 3 succeeding hours are spent in travelling through a forest, in which are very fine oaks, and other valuable timber. This forest was set on fire by Ibrahim’s soldiers in different places. Hence the track passes over an undulat¬ ing plain, partly cultivated and partly covered with briars and heath, inter¬ mingled with rocks. The two last miles to Navarino are an old Venetian pavement, which has been much neg¬ lected, and is nearly impracticable. The communications in Greece have retrograded since the heroic age: for Sect. II. Homer represents Telemachus as driving in a chariot in one day from Pylos to Pherae (Kalamata), and thence in another day to Sparta. Navarino — called by the Greeks Nedkastron (Newcastle),—a place of no importance till the end of the 15th century, was converted into a fortress by the Venetians. It is situated on a cape, projecting towards the S. end of Sphacteria, off which there is a rock, called, from the tomb of a Turkish saint on it, Deliklibaba. Between this rock and the fortress is the entrance to the Bay of Navarino; a noble basin, with a depth of water from 12 to 20 fathoms. The safest anchorage is about the middle of the port, behind the low rock called Chelonaki (%£X«a»«*<), from its likeness to a tortoise. The northern entrance to the harbour, i. e. that be¬ tween Sphacteria and Old Navarino (the ancient promontory of Corypha- sium), is now choked up with a bar of sand, passable only in small boats. A S.W. wind brings a great swell into the harbour of Navarino. The town has no hotel. The citadel, or upper part, is on an eminence. During the war, Navarino alternately was in the hands of the Turks, Greeks, and Egyptians. Navarino "was the spot where Ibra¬ him Pasha landed a disciplined Egyp¬ tian army of 8000 men in May, 1825, and occupying the fortresses of Navar¬ ino, Moron, and Coron, completely recovered the military command of the Morea. The "negotiations of England, France, and Russia, for the pacification of Greece, commenced at St. Peters- burgh by the Protocol of April 4, 1826, and continued by the Treaty of July, 1827, rallied the whole of the energies of Sultan Mahmoud and the Viceroy of Egypt in one grand effort ; and the joint squadrons of Constanti¬ nople and Alexandria, evading the cruisers of the Allied Powers, trans¬ ported to Navarino, on the 9th Sep¬ tember, 1827, an armada sufficient to have entirely extinguished the rebel¬ lion. Meantime, the Russian squadron from the Baltic having joined the squadrons of England and France, the three admirals sent to the Egyptian commander at Navarino, to say that Peloponnesus. route 21. they had received orders not to permit any hostile movement by sea against the Greeks, and to beg that he would not make any attempt of the kind. On the 25th of September they had an in¬ terview with Ibrahim, and an armistice was concluded, extending to all the sea and land forces, lately arrived from Egypt, to continue in force till Ibrahim should receive an answer from the Porte, or from his father. As an an¬ swer could not be expected to arrive in less than twenty days, and no doubts were entertained that Ibrahim would be ordered to evacuate the Morea, the French and English ships were ordered to prepare for escorting the Ottoman fleet to Alexandria or the Dardanelles. A week, however, had scarce elapsed, when upwards of forty sail of the Egyptian fleet came out of the har¬ bour and steered for the N. Admiral Codrington, who had gone to Zante on the conclusion of the armistice, on hearing of this movement, made sail with his own ship, the Asia, and two smaller vessels, and getting a-head of them, resolved to oppose their entrance into the Gulf of Patras. The Egyptian commander asked permission to enter Patras; but on receiving an indignant refusal, accompanied with reproaches of his breach of faith, he returned towards the S., escorted by the English ships. On the fleet arriving (Oct. 3) between Zante and Cephalonia, Ibra¬ him and two other admirals joined it, with fourteen or fifteen ships of war. Notwithstanding their great superiority of force, the English commander bore down upon them, resolved to enforce respect to the armistice. The Otto¬ man fleet still proceeded southward; but taking advantage of a gale of wind and of the darkness of the night, the four admirals’ ships, and some smaller vessels, ran to the Gulf of Patras. On seeing them there in the morning, the English squadron bore down on them and fired, till they made them show their colours. During the night it blew a hurricane ; the English squad¬ ron was driven off, and Ibrahim, taking advantage again of the darkness, got out to sea; so that when, in the morning of the 5th, the English admiral was —XAVARIXO. 285 returning towards Patras, he saw thirty sail of the enemy’s ships be¬ tween Zante and Cephalonia. He forced the whole of them to return to Navarino. On the 18th of October the three admirals held a conference, in which, as the most effectual mode of enforcing the armistice, they agreed to enter the Bay of Navarino, and to maintain the blockade of the Ottoman fleet. It was expected that, as Ibrahim, when at sea, did not venture to engage the English squadron alone, he would submit at once at the sight of the allied fleet. Accordingly, on the 20th October, 1827, at two o’clock in the afternoon, the combined squadron prepared to pass the batteries, in order to anchor in the Bay of Navarino, where the Turkish ships of the line were moored in the form of a crescent, with springs on their cables, and their broadsides to¬ wards the centre; the smaller vessels were behind them. The combined fleet sailed in two columns; that on the weather side being composed of the French and English ships, the Rus¬ sians forming the other or lee line. Admiral Codrington’s ship, the Asia, led the way, followed by the Genoa and the Albion : they passed in with great rapidity, and moored alongside of the Capitan-pasha and two other large ships. Orders had been given that no gun should be fired if the example was not set by the Turks. When the ships had all entered the harbour, the Dart¬ mouth sent a boat to one of the Turkish fireships which were near the mouth of the port. The Turks fired with mus¬ ketry on the boat, and killed the lieu¬ tenant and several of the crew. This was returned from the Dartmouth, and La S’irene, the flag-ship of Rear Ad¬ miral De Rigny. Admiral Codrington’s pilot was then sent on board the Turk¬ ish admiral, but was shot in the boat; and at the same time cannon-shot was fired at La Sir One by one of the Turkish ships, which was instantly returned, and the battle soon became general. The conflict lasted with great fury for four hours, and terminated in the de¬ struction of nearly the entire Turkish fleet. As each ship became disabled, 286 ROUTE 21.— her crew set fire to her, and dreadful explosions every moment threatened destruction to the ships of the allies* After the victory, one of the captive Turkish captains was sent to Ibrahim and the other chiefs, to assure them that if a single musket or cannon-shot should be fired od any ship or boat belonging to the allied powers, they would immediately destroy all the re¬ maining vessels and the forts of Navar- ino ; and, moreover, consider such an act as a declaration of war on the part of the Porte against the three allied powers; but if the Turkish chiefs acknowledged their fault in commit¬ ting the aggression, and hoisted a white flag on their forts, they were willing to resume the terms of good understanding which had been inter¬ rupted. The answer returned was, of course, peaceful. The battle of Navarino ended, in effect, the war in Greece. The intelli¬ gence of it was received with exultation in France and Russia; but the English ministry at that time were doubtful what to say to it, and their successors in office hesitated not to express their disapprobation of it. Though it cannot be proved, yet it seems more than pro¬ bable, that this wavering conduct of the British Government hardened Sul¬ tan Mahmoud in his obstinacy, and led him to reject all the efforts of Russia for a pacific adjustment of the differ¬ ences between them, for he still secretly believed that the other powers would come forward to save him at the last hour. Navarino was ceded by the Egyp¬ tians, at the close of the war, to the French, who repaired the fortifications. It consists now of about 200 well-built stone houses, and about 100 wooden habitations, which are principally ca¬ barets, and inferior shops, all on the shore, about 200 yards from the fort. The remains of Navarino Vecchio, the ancient Pylos, on a lofty promontory at * Of eighty-one ships of war, of which the Turkish fleet consisted, there remained but one frigate and fifteen smaller vessels in a state to be again able to put to sea. The “Asia,” “ Genoa,” and “ Albion ” were very much da¬ maged, and the loss of life in the allied fleet was considerable. NAVARINO. Sect. II. the northern extremity of the bay, con¬ sist of a fort or castle of mean con¬ struction, covering the summit of a hill, sloping sharply to the S., but falling in abrupt precipices to the N. and E. In the northern face of the hill is a large natural cavern, which is men¬ tioned by Pausanias. The town was built on the southern declivity, and was surrounded with a wall, which, allowing for the natural irregularities of the soil, represented a triangle, with a castle at the apex,—a form observed in many of the ancient cities of Greece. The ascent is steep, and is rendered more difficult by the loose stones and broken tiles which are the only vestiges of the habitations. The mediaeval walls on the summit served as a fortress during the war ; and here the gallant Count Santa Rosa, a Piedmontese refugee, was killed on the 25th August, 1825. His tomb, and that of young Lucien Bonaparte, are shown on the island of Sphacteria. It is to be observed that Navarino Vecchio was called by the Byzantine writers UaXaw; 'A/3 apTvo;. The name was changed into Navarino by the habit of using the accusative, and prefixing the final v of the article to the substantive. We have no hesitation in identifying the old Navarino, and the plain now partly occupied by a lagoon beneath it, with the site of the sandy Pylos,—the “ well- built city ” of Nestor. It is a good local habitation for the beautiful repre¬ sentations in the Odyssey of the man¬ ners and feelings of the heroic times . exhibited, when the young Telemachus came, with reverential awe, to inquire of his father’s fate from Nestor, his father’s old companion in arms. Here the Goddess of Wisdom, in her dis¬ guise, rejoiced in the piety of the young Pisistratus, Nestor’s son, who had re¬ quested her to make libations to Nep¬ tune, “ for that all men stood in need of the gods. The after history of Pylos presents at least two strange contrasts with this scene. In b.c. 425 Athens here tri¬ umphed over her rival Sparta, and two thousand years after she was again raised to be the first city of Greece in consequence of a battle here. The harbour of Navarino is shut'in Peloponnesus. route 21. mo by the island of Sphacteria, or Sphagia,* famous for the signal defeat the Spartans sustained here from the Athenians. This island, which is three, miles in length, has been separated into three or four parts by the violence of the waves, so that boats might pass from the open sea into the port, in calm weather, by means of the channel so ^ formed. On one of the portions is the tomb of the Turkish sauton before men¬ tioned. Sphacteria is said to be the scene of Lord Byron’s Corsair, and has always been famous as a resort of pirates. From Navarino is a direct road to Messene; but the distance is upwards of 12 hours by the shortest way. There are traces of the carriage road which formerly led from Neocastron to Modon and Coron, and was originally a Venetian pavement. The French laid out a line of road as far as Modon, but it is now in ruins. It extends for f of an hour along the base of Mount St. Nicholas, leaving it and other hills to the right, between it and the sea. The environs of Modon are desolate in the extreme. All the vineyards and gardens mentioned by former travellers were destroyed by Ibrahim Pasha. Modon (JsUluvn) is about 7 miles dis¬ tant from Neocastron, or the town of Navarino. It consists of a fau¬ bourg, once a considerable Greek village, without the walls, which has been rebuilt, and some vineyards re¬ planted. Within the walls of the Vene¬ tian fortress all is in ruins. Off the outer end of the town is the rock which Pausanias calls Molhon, and which he describes as forming at once a narrow I entrance and a shelter to the harbour of | his time. Modon is fortified with walls of Venetian construction, and farther ! defended by a fosse, over which the French built a bridge. It is described as having once been a place of import¬ ance, but, being incapable of making any obstinate defence, was taken and retaken during the war, and once almost entirely burnt down. The Lion of St. Mark is still seen on the walls ; and within the gate, on the * i.e. Slaughter-house. dox.—coron. 287 old Venetian piazza, the French made a place-d’arme-, which served as a promenade and an exercising ground. All is now silent and desolate. Here is the only remaining object of antiquity—the shaft of an old granite column, 3 feet in diameter, and 12 feet high, with a barbarous base and capital, which seem to have been added by the Venetians. At the south extremity of the town is an old lighthouse, and beneath it an ancient wall, enclosing a port for small craft. The great harbour for ships of war is formed by the island of Scipienza, half a mile distant from Modon, from which it seems to have been separated by an earthquake. This island, once the resort of pirates, is uncultivated and uninhabited. At the foot of the hills behind Modon are the remains of an ancient city, supposed to be Mothone, consisting of some fragments of marble and broken columns, with the traces of an acropolis. They are 2 miles from the gate of the fortress. From Modon to Coron is about 15 miles, or 5 hours’ ride, and the inter¬ vening country is very uninteresting. The road, passing over barren hills, leads to a small inlet of the sea, op¬ posite the island of Cabrera; it then crosses the mountain, whose south extremity is Cape Gallo, and one hour before reaching the town enters a culti¬ vated plain. This country was once well wooded, but the timber has been destroyed or cut down. Coron has been supposed to occupy the site of the ancient Corone, which was founded by Epaminondas on the site of Epea; but this supposition is erroneous, as it does not agree with the position of that city, as described by Pausanias. The village of Petalhidi, 15 miles higher up, is built upon this site. The present town of Coron is placed beneath a slope on a tongue of land which extends eastward for about half a league into the sea. Its roadstead is much exposed. It contains no object of interest to a stranger. It consists of a fortress, enclosing a few private houses, upon a promontory, which once served as an acropolis. From Coron, the traveller can proceed 288 ROUTE 22.—CYPARISSIA TO TRIPOLITZA. Sect. IT. in 7 hours to Nisi along the shore of the Messenian Gulf; or he may return direct to Navarino in about 7 hours. From Navarino to Cyparissia (Ar¬ cadia) is a ride of 11 hours, through a country still delightful, notwithstanding the ravages of the war of the Revolution. During the first hour the road lies along the shore of the Gulf, and then enters an extensive plain, crossing several other streams. After passing through a beautifully wooded valley, it reaches Gargaliano, a large village over¬ looking the plain, 2 miles from the sea, directly opposite the island of Prote. After a further ride of 3 hours through very picturesque scenery, the village of Philiatra is seen, picturesquely situated, among vineyards, olive, and cypress trees. Each house stands singly, gene¬ rally inclosed in a garden. The remain¬ ing 3 houx-s to Arcadia are through a country equally rich. Cyparissia {Arcadia). —The Castle of Arcadia is, from a distance, a beautiful object, but the traveller’s anticipations as’e disappointed on entering the town, for it presents a spectacle of misery, ruin, and filth,—so severely has it suffered from the resolution of Ibrahim to render the Moi'ea “ a profitless waste.” The town of Arcadia is in Messenia, and not in Arcadia. It is built on the site of the ancient Cyparissia, at about 1 mile from the sea, on the nai*row summit of a rock, connected with a high mountain; and the houses cover the flanks of the ridge. The Castle commands a fine view of the slope which descends to the sea. On the shore below the town, two or three magazines, behind a pi’ojection of rock, indicate the Scala of Arcadia, but it seldom happens that ships venture to remain long in the roadstead, as it is so much exposed, and during the winter hardly a boat appears. The island of Prote, by the Italians called Prodano, is, in fact, the port of Arcadia, and all the export produce is conveyed thither to be shipped. There are no antiquities in the town, and the vestiges of the ancient city are confined to a few patches of Hellenic masoni’y in the castle, and some frag¬ ments of Doric columns. On the south side of the town, close to the sea-shore, is the fountain once saci-ed to Dionysius, as is recorded by Pausanias. ^Cyparissia was and is the only town of importance on the W. coast of Messenia between Pylos and Triphylia. It appears to have been inhabited from the earliest times to the present. In the middle ages it came to be called Arcadia, that name being transferred from the interior of the Peninsula to this place on the coast. The town was destroyed by Ibrahim in 1825, and when rebuilt, resumed, like all other places in Greece, its ancient name. ROUTE 22. CYPARISSIA TO TRIPOLITZA. a stream. To the right is a rocky summit, with some niins. j- of an hour after is a bridge over a ravine. The ti-aveller then comes to the stream and I’avine of Kakorema, which was for¬ merly a rendezvous for robbers. Before reaching Klisura is a marshy plain, in which are many branches of a river in artificial canals. Klisura * 4 horn’s 20 minutes from Arcadia, is a small village, under the S. side of Mount Tetrazi, containing some vestiges of antiquity. A path from Klisura over the mountains leads to Kacaletri, where is a Paleo-kaslron, cori-esponding in some respects to the ancient Ira, and near the temple of Apollo at Bassse. There also are some ruins on a hill near Klisura. Klisura to Konstantinus is 3 hours. The road descends to the river Kohla, which runs with the Mavro-Zumeno into the Gulf of Coi’on. 11 hour from Klisura. Hrs. Mi. . 4 20 Konstantinus . 3 Messene .... • Sakona . . 4 Leondari .... . 4 Sinano (Megalopolis) . . 1^ Tripolitza . . . . 6 From Arcadia or Cyparissia to Klisura the road lies under fine olive-trees. 1A * KAeurovpa (#cA.e«o, to shut ) is a name often given to a pass, and to places in it. Peloponnesus. route 22. Klisura are seen across the river, on a high insulated eminence, the ruins of a Paleo-kastron. The path turns to the left out of the main road, and after passing another eminence and Paleo- kastron, reaches Konstantinus, a large village. Konstantinus to Mavromati (Messene'l is 4 hours 20 minutes. Descending from Konstantinus, the road crosses a brook; soon after, on the right, is the opening of the valley towards Arcadia ; and shortly afterwards is a most singular triangular ancient bridge, at the junc¬ tion of two rivers. It rests on two piers in the centre, whence arches in three different directions lead to the three points of land formed by the confluence. The two rivers are the ancient Babjra and Ampfiites; the united stream and the bridge are now called Mavrozumeno. The river joins the Pamisus a little farther to the S. 2 hours after leaving Konstantinus is the gap between the two tops of Mount Vurkano—Ithome and Evas. The road now ascends, by the monastery on Mount Ithome, to the pass between Mounts Ithome and Evas, and after a long descent reaches Mavro¬ mati. Mavromati to Sakona 4 hours. See Route 19. Sakona to Leondari is 4 hours. From Leondari the direct road to Tripolitza is 6 hours, 20 minutes. Leondari to Sinano (Megalopolis) is I 5 hour, about 7 miles. Near Leon¬ dari the river Xerillo is seen to the right, and nearly half way to Sindno the road crosses the Alpheus. Sinano.— Mount Lycams is a con¬ spicuous object from this little village. Close by is the site of Megalopolis, founded by Epaminondas after the battle of Leuctra, b.c. 371, to act, like Messene, as a check to Sparta. Megalopolis became the seat of government of the Arcadian, as Messene of the Messe- nian confederation. It was the birth¬ place of Polybius and Philopcemen. Little remains of this great city, except its immense theatre, which is very I perfect, though now much concealed by ' shrubs, grass, and thorns. Megalopolis was C miles in circumference, and was divided by the river Helisson into two Greece. —SINANO. 289 parts. On one bank was the Agora, and on the other the theatre. The site of the town is covered with thickets and corn-fields, among which are strewed fragments of columns and other indi¬ cations of a great city. The valley of Megalopolis abounds in delightful scenery; desolation has not deprived it of its natural beauties, as it has that of Tripolitza. Sinano is a bad resting place, being infested with mosquitoes, malaria, and all the plagues without the flesh-pots of Egypt. Karytena, the next station, is free from these objec¬ tions, and there is better accommodation. From Sinano the traveller should visit Karytena, whose castle is inter¬ esting from its romantic situation, and as having long been the residence of the celebrated chief, Colocotroni. It is about 2 hours distant from Sinano, and occupies the site of the ancient Berenthe. Karytena is one of the most important military points in the Peloponnesus. The castle occupies the summit of a high rock extremely steep towards the Alpheus, and connected eastward with the mountain which lies between the adjacent part of the plain of the Alpheus and the vale of Atzikolo ; on the north and south the hill slopes more gradually, and on these sides the town is situated. The hill stands at the southern ex¬ tremity of the 2 tsv«, or straits of the Alpheus, which separate the upper from the lower great valley of that river. Karytena deserves the minute attention of the traveller, as having been the stronghold whence the Klephtic chief above mentioned convulsed the Morea from the death of Capo d’lstria till the accession of King Otho. The site of the ancient Gortys is a little N. of Karytena. From Karytena the traveller may either proceed to Tripolitza, a journey of 8 hours 40 minutes, or re¬ turn to Sinano. The route from Kary¬ tena to Kalabryta is described in Route 27. Sinano to Tripolitza, 6 hours. The road passes beautiful scenery of woods and glens, and fine mountain views, and after reaching one of the sources of the Alpheus, continues through rocky valleys to the central plain of Arcadia, and so reaches Tripolitza. o 290 ROUTE 23. -CYPARISSIA TO PATRAS. Sect. II. ROUTE 23. CYPARISSIA THROUGH ARCADIA AND ELIS TO PATRAS. Com- Hrs. Min.puted Cyparissia to Paulizza (an¬ Miles. cient Phigalea) 7 40 17 Phigalea to Bassse (Temple of Apollo) .... 2 20 4 Bassse to Tragoge . 1 0 0 Tragoge to Andritzena 3 10 6 Andritzena to Palaeo-Pha- naro, across the Alpheus Palseo-Phanaro to Miraka 10 0 30 1 0 0 Miraka to Phloka (vale of Olympia intervenes) . Phloka to Pyrgos . 0 0 5 4 0 13 Pyrgos to Palasopolis (an¬ cient Elis) .... 6 20 15 Palseopolis to Kapeleti 5 15 10 Kapeleti to the Metdkhi at Ali Tchelebi. 3 30 6 Metokhi to Palsea Achaia 3 20 12 Palaea Achaia to Patras . 5 0 15 From Arcadia or Cyparissia the road leads through olive-grounds and corn¬ fields to the termination of the Arcadian range. It crosses a river and innumer¬ able rivulets; the country is clothed with oaks, arbutus, and myrtles, and the hills covered with wild mulberry- trees. Sidero-Kastro, 3 hours and 40 minutes, is a village on a steep hill. A ruined fortress is some little distance from it. The situation of the village is very cold ; but travellers may manage to pass a night in it tolerably well. In the neighbourhood were the an¬ cient cities of Aulon, Ira, and Dorion. There are two other ruins between Sidero-Kastro and Paulizza. From Sidero-Kastro to Paulizza (the ancient Phigaleia) is about 9 miles, occupying 4 hours from the badness of the road. After a short descent, the road ascends to a summit, whence is a view of a beautiful and picturesque country. From hence is a difficult de¬ scent among distorted oaks into culti¬ vated ground; the path then enters a narrow and picturesque glen, clothed with ilex, .platanus, and laurel; at a very contracted spot in the glen is a fine cataract. Another difficult descent fol¬ lows, and the traveller crosses the Neda, now called Busi, by a lofty bridge of one arch. The grandeur of this river cannot be exceeded, and the white pre¬ cipices of the Neda are mentioned by Pausanias as one of the characteristics of Ira. To the right is a waterfall into the Neda, and after a rugged ascent the road reaches Paulizza. Paulizza, the ancient Phigalea, a small village divided into two parts, called the upper and lower street. The former of these stands a little within the walls of a large city, which appears clearly from Pausanias to have been Phigalea. The Kato Ruga, or lower division of Paulizza, is situated in a little valley between the ancient walls and the river. Phigalea was situated upon a lofty and precipitous hill, and the greater part of the walls are built upon the rocks, but on the ascent of the hill there is an even and level space. The walls of Phigalea furnish one of the most ancient and curious specimens of mili¬ tary Greek architecture. They were nearly as extensive as those of Mes- sene, and their entire circuit may be traced. They were defended by nu¬ merous towers, some of which are circular, and placed on tremendous pre¬ cipices. There is a small postern in the wall, the arch of which is formed by each successive layer of stones pro¬ jecting beyond that beneath it, so that the upper layers of the two sides meet at the top. On the summit, just within the ancient walls, are the remains of a detached citadel, 80 yards in length, of a singular form. The architecture here resembles generally that of Messene, but is inferior to it. The citadel of Phigalea commands a fine, though not i a very extensive view of Arcadian scenery. The most interesting points in view are Mount Ithome and the Temple of Bassce; the summits of Ly- cceum close the view to the eastward; to the westward are seen Mount Vunuka, Strovitzi and its Paleo-kastron (Le- preum), the mouth of the Neda, and Mount Paraskevi tunin'), above t Cyparissia. 291 Peloponnesus. route 23. —tragoge to andritzena. Phigalea to Bass® is about 2^ hours, though only about 4 miles. Descending from Phigalea, the road enters a culti¬ vated valley; it then ascends a steep glen, and from the number of streams to be crossed becomes almost imprac¬ ticable, till it reaches Tragoge ;—a fur¬ ther ascent of an hour brings the traveller to the ruins of the temple at Bassce, which all travellers should visit. The Temple of Apollo Epicurius is one of the finest ruins in Greece. The place was anciently called Bassse, but now it is known among the peasants by the name of the Columns. The remains of the temple are very perfect; three pillars only of the outer range are want¬ ing; the foundations of the antse or pilasters of the interior still exist, so does the pavement. It is 126 feet in length, by 48 in breadth, and faces nearly N. and S. The columns are 3 feet 8 inches in diameter at the base, and 20 feet high, including the capital. As usual in peripteral temples, there were two columns in the pronaos, and as many in the posticum; so that the total number in the peristyle was 42, of which 36 are standing, and, with one exception only, covered with their archi¬ traves. There are 20 shallow flutings in the shafts, as usual in the Doric order. As they measure only 3 feet under the capital, and are five times the lower diameter in height, they are both more tapering and shorter in propor¬ tion to their height than the columns of the Parthenon. In technical terms the temple may be described as a peripteral hypaethral hexastyle. The stone of which it is built is a hard, yellowish- brown limestone, susceptible of a high polish. The situation of the temple of Bass® is singular and romantic; it stands on a ridge between two high summits covered with old oaks. There is a i magnificent view from the temple to Ithome and the Gulf of Coron on the left; and to the right is the Gulf of Arcadia and the Strophades. Across the Neda to the S. is a village called Kacaleiri , near which are some ruins, which some think are those of Ira. The frieze of this temple (which was discovered by some English and German travellers in 1812) is nowin the British Museum. The temple of Bass® was erected by Ictinus, the architect of the Parthenon at Athens, at the charges of the neighbouring Arcadian town of Phigaleia. It was dedicated to Apollo Epicurius, or the Helper, as a grateful record of deliverance from a plague. With the exception of that of Theseus, it is in better preservation than any temple in Greece. The frieze in the British Museum was probably the work of the scholars of Phidias. Hence the subjects represented—the struggles of Theseus with the Centaurs and Ama¬ zons—refer to Athenian history. Like the temples of P®stum in this respect, the temple of Bass® was either unknown or forgotten till the middle of the 18th century. We envy the feelings of the first classical scholar on w’hom burst the temple much as it was seen by Pausanias. Tragoge is 1 hour from Bass®. It is a small mountain village. Tragoge to Andritzena is between 3 and 4 hours. The road leads up a steep ascent through olive-groves, and then descends into forests of oaks Alter¬ nately ascending and descending, the traveller reaches a point above Andrit¬ zena, whence is a view of the sea and the Island of Zante. Andritzena is a pretty large town or village, and affords better accommoda¬ tion for travellers than most places in the Peloponnesus. It is beautifully situated in an elevated hollow, at the head of a fertile tract, sloping down to the Al- pheus. The town was destroyed during the war, but has been much restored. Not far from the road from Andritzena, on the S. bank of the Alpheus, about 3 miles from Olympia, is the site of the ancient Scillus. It stood in a woody valley, and here Xenophon, when exiled from his country, spent the latter part of his days. The General, Phi¬ losopher, and Historian, the friend of Socrates, Agesilaus, and Cyrus, by the side of this stream and among these woods composed the greater part of his works. From Andritzena is a road to Kary- tena, by the remains of a small Hellenic town, called St. Helena, a little off the o 2 292 Sect. II. ROUTE 23. -OLYMPIAN VALE.-PYRGOS. direct road. It requires 6 hours to reach Karytena by St. Helena. The direct distance is not more than 8 miles. The route from Andritzena to Kalabryta and Megaspekeou is described in Route 24. From Andritzena to Olympia by Palceo Phanaro, where the river Alpheus is forded, and to MtVaAa, is iOorll hours — about 30 miles. The road descends to the village of Tzaka, 2^ hours from Andritzena. A descent of another hour brings the traveller to the Alpheus, along whose banks the road lies till it reaches Paloeo Phanaro, a ruined village. The passage of the river some¬ times occasions much delay, but in dry weather is easily accomplished. When the river is much swollen, it is not pos¬ sible to ford it at Palseo Phanaro, and the traveller will be then obliged to go down the stream as far as Agolonitza, near its mouth, where he will find a ferry-boat. He will then be about 2 hours distant from Olympia, which he may visit on his way from Agolonitza to Pyrgos. After the passage of the Alpheus at Palseo Phanaro the traveller reaches Miraka, a poor village situated on a projecting point overlooking the Olym¬ pian valley and about 2 m. from the river. The Olympian Vale. The traveller entei’s the Valley of Pisa or Olympia, now called Andilalo ,* by a steep descent through a narrow glen thickly wooded, from Miraka. The valley is formed by the Kroniac range to the N., and a higher chain to the S., between it and the river. The length of the valley is 3 miles, and the breadth 1 mile; it is on two separate levels, on the upper of which stood the city of Olympia, secure from the inundations to which the plain is subject. Of all the monuments of art which once adorned this celebrated spot, the site of the Temple of Jupiter alone can be identified. It has been excavated by the inhabitants of the vicinity for the sake of the building mate¬ rials. The foundation stones are large quadrangular masses of a very friable limestone, composed of an aggregate of shells,—it is the same kind of rock of * Andilalo probably means “ opposite to Lalla.” which all the neighbouring mountains are formed. The blocks are put to¬ gether in the best Greek style. The enormous size of the fluted Doric co¬ lumns, together with the site and di¬ mensions of the foundations, leave no doubt that these poor remains are those of the Temple of Jupiter, where once stood the celebrated statue of that god, one of the wonders of the world, and formed, as Pausanias says, of ivory and gold, the work of Phidias, and 60 feet high. The great sculptor owned that his mind was filled with Homer’s de¬ scription of the King of Gods and Men. The Olympic games exercised an im¬ mense influence on the character and fortunes of the whole Hellenic nation. The natui'e of the contests prevented the influx of Oriental weakness, while their publicity and the coucoui’se of people made them act the part of a public press. The vale of Olympia lies from E. to W. For upwards of 1000 years the full moon, after the summer solstice, every fourth year witnessed the cele¬ bration of these games. The first Olym¬ piad coincides with b.c. 776, and the last with a.d. 394, or the 16th of the Emperor Theodosius (see Wordsworth’s Greece, p. 314, 315). There is now no habitation on the site of Olympia. On the N. of the valley are rocky heights crowned with wood ; pines cover the hills to the W., and Oriental plane-trees hang over the wide gravelly bed of the Alpheus to the S. All the altars and statues have passed away like the countless multi¬ tudes which once thronged around them. The scenery at Olympia is more in¬ teresting than the ancient remains. The valley is very beautiful, and the hills of the wildest form, carpeted with the finest turf, and shaded with the pine, wild olive, and plane. Miraka to Pyrgos, by Phloka, 4 hours. The village of Phloka is at the eastern end of the valley. The path follows the Alpheus for 2 hours, and on quitting it crosses an undulating plain. On the opposite bank of the river are low and picturesque hills bi’oken into glens, and richly wooded. Pyrgos is the principal town in this 293 Peloponnesus, route 24. —andrit district, and exhibits appearances of in¬ dustry and activity greater than are to be found in most parts of Greece. '1 he town is situated on a high plain between Mount Olonos and the Alpheus. The bazaar is thronged and busy. The pro¬ duce of the country is exported from hence, and European manufactures im¬ ported. Katacolo is the port of 1 yrgos, but is merely an exposed roadstead. From Pyrgos there are two roads to Patras; the one by Palaopolis, the other by Gastuni: the latter is longer by one hour than the former. Pyrgos to Palseopolis is 6 hours ‘20 minutes. The road lies through the i fine plains of Elis, and crosses several streams. Palaopolis (ancient Elis) stood on the edge of the plain where the Peneus issues from the hills, on the northern side of one of them, at a distance of about 8 miles by the road from Gastuni. The hill of Elis is conspicuous above the others by its superior height, its peaked form, and by a ruined tower on the summit. Both the height and the tower are now called Kaloskopi, a name which the Venetians, having translated it into “ Belvedere,” applied to one of the five districts into which they divided the Morea. The great insulated rock called the Mountain of Sandameri is a most remarkable feature in this part of Eleia. The Peneus flowed through the city of Elis; but there are now no remains on the right bank. Of Grecian remains there are nothing but confused scattered blocks. Some masses of brickwork seem to be of Roman origin. The soil of Elis is well adapted to conceal speedily, and may therefore still pre¬ serve, many works of art. Palseopolis to Kapeleti is 5£ hours. Leaving Palseopolis, the traveller crosses the Peneus, and subsequently two or three other streams, the third probably the Larissus. The country becomes more woody as we approach Kapeleti, a village of two or three houses in a wood, where the traveller will hardly find accommodation. From Kapeleti to Metokhi is 3.) hours through a woody plain ; about 2 hours from Kapeleti a lake is seen to the left; IENA TO KAUABRYTA, ETC. and to the left is a road leading to a rock on the coast, on which are the vestiges of an old fortress. At Ali Tchdebi, 3 hours from Kapeleti, the traveller may find accommodation, though it is very bad. The Metoklii, or Convent Farm, in this village, is also a place where strangers may lodge. If they bring letters of recommendation, &c., the accommodation is good. There is excellent woodcock shooting here in winter. The scenery resembles that of an English park. It is 8 hours from Ali Tchelebi to Patras. From this Metokhi to Palaea Achaia is 3 hours 20 minutes. An hour after leaving Metokhi is a kastron on a rocky hill. A lake extends towards Cape Papa , the ancient Araxus, on the left; in another hour are seen vestiges of the city of Dijme. Palaa Achaia, where is a khan with inscriptions; the ruins are 200 yards S. of it. The ruins consist of the founda¬ tions of the city walls on the top of a natural bank. This was the site of Olenus. Palaea Achaia to Patras, a delightful ride of 4 or 5 hours. The river Kame- nitza (the Pierus) must be forded near Palaea Achaia: the ford is difficult, and occupies i hour crossing it with luggage; to the right, among the trees, are the ruins of the city of Olenus. The re¬ mainder of the journey of 3 hours is through a fine country of pasture lands and forests of oaks. On the right is the river Lenka (Glaucus). The travel¬ ler enters Patras by the shore, passing the Church of St. Andrew and the Well of Ceres. ROUTE 24. ANDRITZENA TO KALABRYTA AND MEGASPEL.EON. Hrs. Min. Andritzena to H. Jannis . 3 0 H. Jannis to Chora . . 4 30 . Chora to Velimaki, about 5 0 Velimaki to Tripotamo . 2 0 Tripotamo to Kalabryta .70 By the help of a country guide a shorter route may be found to the Al- 294 ROUTE 25. —PYRGOS TO PATRAS. Sect. II. pheus than that usually taken through Tzaka and H. Jannis. The traveller must not trust to his Athens servant alone, unless well versed in this part of the country, because he may mistake the passage of the river, which is only passable at certain fords. After crossing the Alpheus the road falls into that leading to Olympia, and follows it till it crosses the Ladon, and reaches Belesi. Thence it ascends the left bank of the Erymanthus, through beautiful oak woods, which cover the high banks of the river, forming very picturesque scenery. Behind are extensive views of the valley of the Ladon and Al¬ pheus, rich in woods, while over them are seen the tops of Mount Lycaeum. The oak trees are planted at proper dis¬ tances to allow the full growth which they have attained, and form a grateful shade; while the path is not blocked up by tangled brushwood, but lies among ferns and cypresses. This con¬ tinues for 4 hours or more to the village of Chora. The road thence lies over the top of the hills to Velimaki. Thence we ascend some high hills, and again obtain a view of the vale of the Ery¬ manthus. On the opposite side rises the mountain of OLonos, with rugged banks and precipitous sides. In front the eye looks down upon the junction of two streams with the Erymanthus, from which the place takes the name of Tri potamo. 2 hours’ descent bring us to the spot where there are some re¬ mains of the ancient town of Psophis; the square blocks which composed the walls still lie scattered about, and an angle or two are in good preservation. The situation is exceedingly grand, and still possesses merits for which the tra¬ veller is totally unprepared; for, after riding many an hour without any one to speak to, he suddenly finds himself in a fertile valley. We then quit the plain; the path ascends a very steep mountain, from whence to Kalabryta is 5 hours or more, of which nearly 1 is occupied in ascending the hill, and as much in descending the other side. The village of Syrbani is passed on the right. The scenery is very grand. The snowy Khelmos rises above Syr¬ bani, and divides the waters of the N. from those of the S. In all, from Tripotamo to Kalabryta is about 7 hours. The following routes may be sug¬ gested as variations of, or additions to, those just described. I. Andritzena to H. Jannis (Hersea), 4 hours. Thence by Belesi and Miraka to Olympia, 8 hours. From Olympia turn N.E. by Lala (inhabited before the revolution by Mahommedans of Albanian race) to the ruins of Psophis and the modern Sopoto, 2 days’ journey. From Sopoto by the ruins of Cleitor to Sudena, 1 day. Sudena to Megas- pelion by Kalabryta, 1 day. In all about 6 days. II. Megaspelion to Solos (Styx), 4 hours. From Solos by Zaruchla to Phonia, 1 day. From Phonia by lake of Stymphalus to H. Georgis, 1 day. (The site of Phlius is a short way N. of H. Georgis.) Thence to Corinth, 2 short days. In all about 5 days; or from Andritzena to Corinth in from 10 to 12 days. ROUTE 25. PYRGOS TO PATRAS BY GASTUNI. Hrs. Min. Miles. Pyrgos to Gastuni . .6018 Gastuni to Clarenza ..20 7 Clarenza to Kapeleti . . 6 0 18 Kapeleti to the Metokhi 3 30 6 Metokhi to Palsea Achaia 3 20 12 Palaea Achaia to Patras .5015 From Pyrgos to Gastuni the road leads through the plain by the site of Letrini. Near it begins the great lagoon which extends for some way along the coast. The journey occupies nearly 6 hours. Gastuni is built of bricks baked in the sun. The town is unhealthy in summer, owing to the excavations made in digging out the bricks, which leave stagnant pools of water. The name is probably of Frank origin, and it was possibly founded by some member of one of the French families, Champlitte and Villehardouin, of the name of Gaston. In the year 1204 these families Peloponnesus. ROUTE 26. —PATRAS TO TRIPOLITZA. 295 established a principality in the N of the Morea. Flax and wheat form the chief produce of Gastuni. , , From Gastuni to Clarenza is 2 hours ride, over a marshy plain. Clarenza is now reduced to a few houses, mid is the usual landing-place from Zante. The fortress picturesquely crowns the height Here was the ancient Lyllene, the port of Elis. Castel Tornese is another fortress of Frank construction, very conspicuous in this part of Elis. Clarenza to Kapeleti is a ride ot 6 hours—18 miles. At this spot the two roads to Patras join (see Route 23). ROUTE 26- PATRAS TO TRIPOLITZA. Hrs. Patras to Kalabryta . . 11 Kalabryta to Phonia . 10 Phonia to Tripolitza . . 12 Min. 0 30 0 The road crosses a stream in the plain of Patras, leaving Mount Voidhia to the left; 6± hours from Patras is a Khan to the right, and a Paleo-kastron, which has been supposed to be the ruins of Tritata , and is very extensive. The road crosses a river, which falls into the sea at Vostitza; 1 k hour far¬ ther is a fountain, on a spot formerly notorious for robbers. Mount Olonos is seen to the right. Near Kalabryta is a cave in the hill, the roof of which is in compartments. There is also near it another sepulchral cave. Kalabryta (*»)•«, (ioura ) takes its name from the tine sources in the neighbourhood. The town stands just above the edge of the plain, on either side of the bed of a wide torrent, de¬ scending directly from Mount Chelmos, the western summit of which, generally covered with snow, is seen over the back of the town. The two catacombs above mentioned are the only remains of antiquity here. The convent of Megaspeliun is only 2 hours distant from Kalabryta, on the road to Vos- titza. From Kalabryta to the Valley of the Styx is 4 hours; and the Styx should certainly be seen from hence, if not from Phonia. Kalabryta is the site of the ancient Cynatha. From Kalabryta to Phonia 10^ hours. The road ascends a high pass, and descends into a cold, bleak country. 2£ hours from Kalabryta is a station at the top of a high pass, whence there is a fine view, with a lake to the right, and to the left Mount Chelmos. After a long descent into the plain, the road enters a gorge, and descends to Ivleitor on the plain of Katzanes. The ruins of Kleitor or Clitorium are situated in a fertile plain, surrounded by some of the highest mountains in Arcadia, at the northern extremity of which Chelmos rises in conspicuous grandeur. This mountain is inter¬ spersed with sylvan scenery, where fine masses of rock peer out amid the united foliage of the pine, the plane- tree, the ilex, and the oak, its grand outline terminating in a pointed summit of great height. Most of the walls of Kleitor may be traced, though little of them remains above ground. They inclose an irregular oblong space, and were fortified with circular towers. The style of construction is nearly equilateral, which gives them an ap¬ pearance of great solidity ; their general thickness is 15 feet. Here are remains of a small Doric temple with fluted antae, and columns with capitals of a singular form. About 20 minutes from Kleitor is a place called Mazi. The road passes on to Lykuria, near which is an abundant spring, which is the outlet of the subterraneous waters of the river and lake of Phonia; and the stream is the Ladon, which, after a circuitous and rapid course through Arcadia, joins the Alpheus. Lykuria, a straggling village, is 2£ hours from Phonia. The road ascends by a steep path to the top of a pass, and then, by a steep descent, leads to the Katabothron, or Abyss, where the waters of the lake sink. It now con¬ tinues along the shores of the lake. Here are some vestiges of walls to the left, and some blocks, seeming to indi¬ cate a former fortification of the pass. The signs of the ancient height of the water. 296 Sect. II. ROUTE 27. -KARYTENA TO KALABRYTA, ETC. mentioned by Pausanias, are observed across the lake. Phonia was originally a Kalyvia, or summer residence, and consisted of huts, but is now become a town. The Pheneos of history was evidently placed upon an insulated hill, south¬ east of the modern town, where the ruins of the whole circuit of the wall are visible. The rest of the ruins consist of scattered blocks and confused heaps ; but it is probable that interest¬ ing objects might be discovered here. Pheneos was one of the most ancient cities in Greece. Hermes was the particular object of worship here: he had a temple consecrated to him, and was honoured with games called Hermaia. From Phonia to Tripolitza is 12 hours. The road crosses the river Aroanius, having Mount Ziria (Cyllene) to the left. Leaving the lake of Phonia, the road enters a level plain ; l hour after¬ wards is a very romantic and confined hollow, whence the road ascends to a summit commanding a view of a small lake to the right. A very rugged descent through a glen succeeds ; soon after is a fine fountain by the side of the road ; and another path turns off to Stymphalus, Zaraka , &c. The road passes another fine source, and a plain, with a small lake surrounded by moun¬ tains; and leaving on the right some vestiges of the ancient city of Caphyee, reaches Kalpaki. This is a small village, a little above which are the foundations of a Doric temple ; 15 minutes distant, on the summit of a hill, are the remains of the Acropolis of Orchomenos, The city extended as far as Kalpaki, as is proved by the walls. The Acropolis commands a fine view. Kalpaki is 6 hours from Phonia. The road proceeds by the village of Lebidi, and then, by a high pass, to Kapsa. Proceeding down the valley, it enters the plain of Mantinea, passing a Kata- bothron, where some streams fall into an abyss. The ruins of Mantinea are passed to the left; the road continues thence along the plain to Tripolitza, which is 6 hours from Kalpaki; making in all 12 hours from Phonia. Tripolis, or Tripolitza. (Route 16.) ROUTE 27. KARYTENA TO KALABRYTA AND THE STYX. 1st day. Karytena to Stemnitza , a small Arcadian town. Apply for lodging at the Demarch’s. 2nd. To Zygovisti, and thence over a very bare country (leaving Langadia on the left) to Karnesi. Let the traveller be careful to turn well to the right before arriving quite at Langadia. 3rd. From Karnesi to Mazi. The river Ladon is crossed near a khan, called Philiotico-Khan, from its proximity to Philia. 4th. By Sudhena to Kalabryta, or even to Megaspelion. These are 4 very short days, and abundance of time is left for visiting the remains of Kleitor, near Mazi. The journey might be otherwise divided by stopping at Dimitzana and Philia, and might thus be accomplished in 3 days. The Styx should be visited from Kalabryta, ei ther on the way to Phonia,or returning to Kalabryta or Megaspelion. The distance is about 4 hours from either Kalabryta or the Convent, so the excursion might perhaps be made in 1 long day, returning at night. From Kalabryta there is a rugged path over Mount Khelmos (hardly passable in winter from the depth of the snow upon it,) which reaches in 4 horn's Solos, passing at 2 miles from that village the Falls of the Styx. Solos is on or near the site of the ancient Nonacris, and the river which flows past it and falls into the Corinthian Gulf at Akrata is the Crathis. The Styx is the torrent which coming down from Khelmos, joins the Crathis just below Solos. The moun¬ tains around exhibit a sublime but barren aud gloomy scene. The Styx descends rapidly through a deep and rocky glen, at the upper extremity of which the eastern part of the great summit of Khelmos terminates in a huge precipice. Two slender cascades of water fall perpendicularly over the precipice, and after winding for some distance among a labyrinth of rocks, unite to form the Styx. This waterfall is the xaxuiiopiiov 2ri /yog or down- Peloponnesus. r. 28. patras to kaupua— 29. nauplia to corinth. 297 distilling water of Styx, the Iruybs vba.Tos ocItcl pa&pa., or lofty torrents of Styx, which Homer has by these epithets described more correctly than any subsequent author. Pausanias also had a correct idea of the place; and Hesiod (Theog. v.) in the midst of his poetical allusions to Styx, whom he personifies as an infernal deity, has given an accurate notion of the reality in describing the water upon which the oath of the Gods was taken. The re¬ puted poisonous quality of the Stygian water, and the other fables told of it by the ancient Greeks, arose naturally from its gloomy position, and from the vene¬ ration in which it had been so long held. At the present day the peasants of the neighbourhood preserve the old notion that the water of the Styx is unwhole¬ some, and call the cascade the Black Water — (yutvponpo). ROUTE 28- PATRAS TO NAUPLIA. Hrs. Min. Patras to Vostitza ... 8 Vostitza to Acrata ... 5 0 Acrata to Zacholi ... 2 30 Zacholi to Zevgalatio . . 8 30 Zevgalatio to Nauplia . . 8 30 On leaving Patras the road lies at the foot of the hills. The plain is here 2 miles wide. An hour from Patras is seen the Castle of the Morea, a mile to the left, upon the cape anciently called jRhion. An hour farther the traveller finds himself opposite to Epacto, or Naupactus, called by the Italians Le- panto. In another hour are 2 lagoons near the shore, anciently ports. The scenery is very fine, and 20 minutes farther is a fine waterfall. The road continues through beautiful and diver¬ sified scenery all the way to Yostitza ( JEgium ). Vostitza .— See Route 1. Vostitza to Acrata, by a Metokhi of the monks of Megaspelion, is 5 hours. The scenery continues fine. Near the Metokhi is the cave of Hercules. Thence to Acrata, the road continues for the most part near the sea. Acrata. — See Route 11. There is a khan here. Acrata to Zacholi, 2 ^ hours. Zacholi to Zevgalatio is 8 £ hours. The route is still along the shore, with nothing particularly worthy of notice, excepting the beauty of the scenery. Zevgalatio. —From hence to Nauplia is 85 hours. The road leaves the sea, and, winding through dreary defiles, at length reaches the Dervenakia, or de¬ files, celebrated for the complete defeat of the armj T of Dramali Pasha in 1822, the Greeks having posted themselves along the ridges of the mountains and rolled down rocks on the fugitive hosts of the Pasha, already harassed and dis¬ organized. (See next Route.) ROUTE 29. NAUPLIA TO CORINTH BY NEMEA. Nauplia to Charvati . Charvati to Nemea . Nemea to Cleonse. Cleonse to Corinth . Hrs. Min. 3 0 2 30 1 15 2 30 There are 3 routes from Nauplia to Corinth; that now to be described is the most circuitous, but also the most easy. It issues from the Argolic plain at its N.W. angle, passes over some low hills, then turns to the right, and arrives at Nemea; thence, bearing to the N.E. it leaves Cleonce on the right, and reaches Corinth after traversing about 33 miles. The other two roads are to the east of the first, that nearest to it following two narrow defiles after its exit from the plain, which were of old known by the name of Tretus , or the perforated road, where the cave of the Nemean lion was shown, and which are now called Dervenakid ; the other, to the east of this, skirts the rugged mountains to the north of Mycense, and was termed of old the Contoporeia, or the foot-track. These two latter routes were the scene of the destruction of the Turkish army in 1822, which had incautiously advanced into the plain of Argos without supplies, or a safe retreat. They are the Khyber Pass of the Morea. All the neighbouring towns were long afterwards a mart for the rich clothes and arms of the Turks. o 3 298 ROUTE 30. —NAUPEIA TO ATHENS. Sect. II. From Nauplia to Charvati is 3 hours. Charvati (Mycenae). Route 16. Charvati to Nemea is 2 hours 20 minutes. The road descends into the plain from Charvati; to the left are the ruins of a village; the rocks in this part of the country frequently assume the ap¬ pearance of rough masonry. The road enters a glen, and crosses a brook to the left; on an elevation is an ancient ruin; the glen becomes very narrow, and the road diverges to Nemea. Near Nemea, to the right, are many caves, the abode of the Nemean Lion of fable. “ There is a temple in ruins stands, Fashion’d by long-forgotten hands; Tivo or three columns, and many a stone, Marble and granite, with grass o’ergrown! Out upon Time! it will leave no more Of the things to come than the things before! Out upon Time 1 who for ever will leave But enough of the past for the future to grieve O’er that which hath been, and o’er that which must be; What we have seen, our sons shall see; Remnants of things that have pass’d away. Fragments of stone, rear'd by creatures of clay!" Of the famous Temple of Jupiter a portion of the cella, several prostrate columns almost entire, and a great deal of the entablature remain. The form and decorations are Doric, with nearly Ionic proportions. It is owing probably to the coarseness of the material, that the ruins, like those of Psestum, have been left in their place. The breadth of the temple was 65 feet, and the length more than double. The walls of the cella, pronaos, and porticus are together 105 ft. 2 in. in length: width 30 ft. 7 in. Two of the columns now stand¬ ing belonged to the pronaos, and were placed as usual between ant®: they are 4 ft. 7 in. in diameter at the base, and still support their architrave. The third column, which belonged to the outer range, is 5 ft. 3 in. in diameter at the base, and about 34 ft. high, including a capital of 2 ft. Its distance from the corresponding column of the pronaos is IS ft. The total height of the 3 members of the entablature was 8 ft. 2 in. The general intercolumniation of the peristyle was 7 ft.; at the angles, 5 ft. 10 in. The entablature was less than one-fourth of the height of the column. The lowness of the extant architrave, and the smallness and narrowness of the capitals, give the impression that the building was inele¬ gant, but it would be wrong to form this conclusion from the mere fragment which remains. At a small distance south of the temple are other remains of the Doric order. Traces of the Nemean theatre are to be found at the foot of a hill not far distant. The valley is surrounded by mountains of considerable height, and the waters collected here run into the Corinthian Gulf. Like Olympia, the place set apart for the celebration of the Nemean games was a level plain, stretching from N. to S., nearly 3 miles in length and 1 in breadth; but it had not, like Olympia, an Alpheus to adorn it, and was watered only by several rills which flow down from the mountains that encircle it. Nemea is 1 hour 15 minutes from the site of Cleonae. The only remains here are some Hellenic foundations round a small height, on which are the founda¬ tion walls of several terraces. Cleonse to Corinth is 2^ hours. The road lies sometimes in the bed of a torrent, then crosses a bridge and ravine, and ascends by a steep path to two tumuli. It descends to another deep ravine, and enters the plain of Corinth, across which it continues to the town. (Route 1.) ROUTE 30. NAUPLIA TO ATHENS BY HYDRA, POROS, &C. There is regular steam communica¬ tion two or three times each mouth between Nauplia and Athens. The steamers touch at Hydra and Spetzia, and perform the voyage in about 10 hours. In fine weather, the traveller can hire a sailing-boat at Nauplia, and see the places described in the following route, at most of which the steamers do not stop. Astros, a small village on the con- Peloponnesus, route 30. —astros.- fines of Argolis and Laconia, is within sight of Nauplia. Here the second Greek Congress was held in the month of April, 1823. So great was the anxiety of the people to participate in the deliberations, that, in addition to the prescribed number of representa¬ tives, no fewer than fifty delegates were sent from different parts, to be present at the national congress; and besides the soldiery, a large concourse was drawn to the spot. The meetings commenced on the 10th of April, and were held in a garden under the shade of orange-trees. The deputies and delegates amounted altogether to near 300. The Bey of Maina, Mavromi- khali, was named President of the con¬ gress. Among other resolutions, Pietro Bey was named President of the Exe¬ cutive ; Colocotroni Vice-President, and George Conduriotti President of tne Senate. The Congress concluded its functions on the 30th of April, by issuing a declaration, in which they re¬ asserted the national independence, and returned thanks to the land and sea service for their noble efforts during the two preceding campaigns. The island of Spetzia (or Petzte) is a miniature likeness of Hydra, though less rocky and better cultivated. The town is built on the eastern shore of the island, and contains about 4000 inhabitants. Its streets are better than those of Hydra, its houses are equally good, and the same taste for cleanliness and comfort prevails here. From its situation, the place is almost incapable of defence, and the few useless bat¬ teries which lie along the shore were for the most part dismantled during the Revolution, for the sake of placing the guns in the ships of war. The security of the Spetziotes rested on the narrowness of the strait which separates their island from the Morea, the dread entertained by the Turks of their fire-ships in so narrow a channel, and the facilities of obtaining succours or making their escape. Spetzia fur¬ nished sixteen ships for the Greek navy, besides two fire-ships. Sir Wil¬ liam Gell speaks of Spetzia as a “ thriv¬ ing town of Albanian peasants and pirates, who called themselves Greeks —SPETZIA.—KASTRI.—HYDRA. 299 by courtesybut this remark no longer applies. The island is the ancient Tiparenos. The present population is chiefly engaged in commercial pursuits. The port is good and much frequented. The Spetziots are proprietors of many fine vessels, and in conjunction with the Hydriots and Psariots, performed pro¬ digies of valour during the war. The climate of Spetzia is so salubrious that invalids are frequently sent there for the restoration of their health. The women are generally handsome. Kranidi, to which, in 1823, the Greek Senate transferred its sittings in consequence of the rupture with the Executive, nearly opposite to the island of Spetzia, contains 600 houses. Kastri is an hour and a half to the eastward of Kranidi, opposite the island of Hydra. It is the representative of the ancient Hermione, which was situated on the promontory below the modern village. Neptune, Apollo, Isis and Serapis, Venus, Ceres, Bacchus, Diana, Vesta and Minerva had all temples here; but their foundations and the walls of the city alone remain. There was also a grove consecrated to the Graces: and behind the temple of Ceres was one of those unfathomable caverns which were believed to be mouths of the infernal regions. Kastri has two excellent ports : the inhabitants, like most of the people of Argolis and the neighbouring islands, are of Al¬ banian race. Hydra .— 1 hour’s sail from Kastri. “ What a spot you have chosen for your country ! ” said Mr. Wadding- ton to Admiral Tombazi. “ It was Liberty that chose the spot, not we,” was the patriot’s ready reply. On a rock so utterly barren as scarcely to present on its whole surface a speck of verdure, rises, in dazzling whiteness and beauty, this singularly interesting city. Seen in a summer’s evening by moon¬ light, it is one of the most magnificent scenes imaginable. The white houses hanging in the form of an amphitheatre upon a steep mountain, then appear like a mass of snow; and the lights sparkling at a distance from the open windows, “ show like stars of gold on 800 ROUTE 30. -NAUPLIA TO ATHENS.-HYDRA. Sect. II. a silver ground.” Hydra was not in¬ habited by the ancients. This little Venice of the iEgean has risen “like an exhalation ” from the commercial enterprise and love of liberty to which the events of the last fifty years have given birth. The harbour, from the abrupt sides and bottom of which the town suddenly rises, is neither spacious nor secure; it is a deep bay on the western side of the island, only pro¬ tected on the west by the opposite coasts of the Peloponnesus, which are 4 or 5 miles distant. There are two other ports, in which most of the ships of war were laid up during the winter, one on the north and the other on the south of the city. The streets, from the rugged situa¬ tion of the town, are precipitous and uneven, but remarkable for their clean¬ liness. The quay is lined with storehouses and shops, the number of which suffices to prove the former extent of the Hy¬ driote commerce. The houses are all built in the most substantial manner, and, with the exception of their flat roofs, on European models. The apartments are large and airy, and the halls spacious, and always paved with marble. The walls are so thick as al¬ most to supersede the necessity of our sun-blinds in the niches of their deep- set windows. But, independently of the strength of the habitations, the neatness and extreme cleanliness of them are perfectly remarkable, and speak highly for the domestic employ¬ ments of the Hydriote ladies, who are still not entirely freed from the seden¬ tary restriction so universal in the East. The furniture, half Oriental and half European, combines the luxury of one with the convenience of the other, whilst its solidity and want of orna¬ ment show that it has been made for comfort and not for ostentation. Several monasteries are perched on the cliffs, and the churches and re¬ ligious establishments amount to 100, some of them possessing ornaments of great, value. The Hydriote women are pretty, and their dress is picturesque. The men are invariably athletic and well formed. The glorious share which this little island has taken in the regeneration of Greece has brought it conspicuously into notice ; and to the latest posterity the names of the brave Hydriotes will live the watchword of freedom. Con- duriotti, Tombazi, and Boudouri, as well as Miaulis, were all natives of Hydra. The noble integrity and dis¬ interestedness of these islanders formed a striking contrast to the covetousness, love of plunder, and discord of the Moreote chiefs. The family of Miaulis had been long established at Hydra, and he was ac¬ customed fo the sea from a child. Being entrusted at nineteen by his father with the management of a small brig which traded in the Archipelago, his successes in trade were equal to those of any of his countrymen, and he was amongst the richest of the islanders ; but the unfortunate loss of a vessel on the coast of Spain, which, together with her cargo, was his own property, and worth about 160,000 pias¬ tres, reduced his circumstances to me¬ diocrity. A few years, however, in some degree recruited his fortunes, so far as, at the opening of the war, to enable him to contribute three brigs to the navy of Greece. He had at one time been cap¬ tured, with two other Spetziote vessels, by Lord Nelson : his companions, after a strict investigation, still maintaining that their cargo was not French pro¬ perty, were condemned; whilst his frankness in admitting the justness of the capture induced the British admiral to give him his liberty. His manners were friendly and unaffected. He was totally above any vaunting or affectation, and only anxious to achieve bis own grand object — the liberation of his country, alike unmoved by the malice and envy of his enemies, or the lavish praises of his countrymen. Whilst the bravery of his associates was mingled with a considerable alloy of selfish am¬ bition, Miaulis displayed one cloudless career of steady sterling patriotism. He terminated his brilliant life in August, 1835, and lies interred, at his own re¬ quest, at the Piraeus, where a temporary monument has been raised to his me¬ mory. The island of Hydra is 12 miles Peloponnesus. route 30. —xauiu from Spetzia. It is 11 miles long, and 3 miles broad. A few fishermen and peasants, forced from the neighbouring continent by the oppression of the Turks, raised the first nucleus of a town; to which, after¬ wards, numbers of others crowded from Albania, Argolis, and Attica, in similar circumstances. The descend¬ ants of these, and of the refugees who took shelter here after the unsuc¬ cessful expedition of the Russians to the Morea in 1770, form the present population of the island. In 1825 its population was estimated at 40,000; but it does not now amount to more than one-half of that number. Previous to the revolution, the island enjoyed the privilege of self-government, inde¬ pendent of the Turks, no Mussulman being allowed to reside there. A senate, or council of primates, was elected. They chose a president, whose appoint¬ ment required the confirmation of the Porte, to which he became responsible for the tribute, and for the stipulated con¬ tingent of sailors furnished to the Otto¬ man navy. The islanders were the richest in the Archipelago, and poverty was unknown among them. The ship¬ owners not only almost exclusively possessed the carrying trade of the Black Sea and the Mediterranean, but many extended their voyages to England and the Baltic. At the commencement of the war, the commercial navy of Hydra amounted to 150 vessels. So proverbial was the honesty of the islanders that, on the departure of a vessel on a distant voyage, it was the practice of the captain to "call at the various houses, previous to setting sail, and receive sums of money on speculation, for which no receipt was taken, and no single in¬ stance is recorded of any captain having failed, within two days of his return, to call and give back the money, with the accumulated profits. Both Hydra and Spetzia have de¬ clined since the Revolution ; from other places, which are more accessible, having now become the chief centres of Greek commerce. Crossing from Hydra into the Gulf of yEgir.a, the traveller reaches, in 2 hours, the town of ,IA TO ATHENS.-rOROS. 301 Poros, on an islet of the same name, the ancient Spharia. It is remarkable for its rocks of granite. It is separated from the Peloponnesus by a very narrow channel, with a ferry, which is 1^ hour from Damala, the site of Trcezen. The coast of the Peloponnesus in these parts abounds in oranges and lemons; the groves of the latter on the mountain side are well worth a visit. At Poros, mules may be procured, on which it is easy to pass over the sand-bank into the adjacent isle of Calauria, where there is a large monastery, and the substructions of the temple of Neptune, in which Demosthenes expired. Calau¬ ria is a rugged, barren island, almost entirely uninhabited. The excursion to Trcezen is more interesting. Here was held the Greek National Assembly of 1827, when Capo d’lstria was chosen President of Greece for 7 years. The ruins of the ancient city are j hour N. of the village of Domain, and consist chiefly of Hellenic substructions, with Frank or Byzantine superstructures. Trcezen stood at the foot of the Argolic ridge, and at the entrance of a deep rocky gorge descending from it. This gorge is spanned by a single arch of rough masonry. From Damala to Castri (Hermione), a rugged road leads, in 5 hours, across the barren hills of the Argolic peninsula, which commands, however, glorious views over the sea and the neighbouring islands. The Parthenon is conspicuous from the ridge above Trcezen, as is also the new palace of King Otho Poros is celebrated as having been the scene of the conferences of the English, French, and Russian ambas¬ sadors in 1828; on whose joint reports the allied governments settled the basis of the new Greek monarchy. Three years afterwards it became the scene of the outbreak which led to the death of Capo d’lstria. The chiefs of the Con¬ stitutional party, alarmed at the con¬ duct of Capo d’lstria, took refuge at Hydra, where they established a news¬ paper, called the “ Apollo, which awakened the patriotism of Greece, and called on the nation to defend their rights. Capo d’Tstria having given orders to seize the national marine at 302 ROUTE 30. —TfAUPEIA TO ATHENS.—POROS. Sect. II. Poros, with the view of attacking the | islands, Miaulis, the high admiral of! Greece, acting under instructions from the primates of Hydra, suddenly crossed the Peninsula, and took possession of the Hellas frigate. Incensed at this triumph, the Russian Admiral Ricord, at that time the senior officer at Nauplia, proceeded in company with Capt. Lyons and Capt. Lalande, the English and French commanders, to Poros, where he intended to destroy, at one blow, the island primates opposed to Russian j ascendency. Captains Lyons and La- ■ lande did all they could to prevent this, and went away. Miaulis also apprised Admiral Ricord that if a single boat approached the Hellas, he would immediately set fire to it. Admiral Ricord having in vain attempted to persuade the English and French com¬ manders to take part in this enterprise, attacked the Greek flotilla, whereupon Miaulis consigned the Hellas to the flames. Poros since 1830 has been the na¬ tional arsenal of Greece; a steamer and a corvette, with many small vessels, have been built there under the direc¬ tion of Captain Tombazi, who studied naval architecture in England.. The naval yard of Poros is on a very small scale, but there is no want of skill or means to build vessels, were funds pro¬ vided for the purpose. The harbour is between the island and the main-land. The little town of Poros (i. e. Ferry) has a singular appearance, with its houses perched like sea-gulls among its dark volcanic rocks, for Sphaeria, like the peninsula of Methana, is evi¬ dently of volcanic origin. The in¬ habitants amount to 7000, and are of Albanian race ; dark, taciturn men, and easily distinguished from the supple, lively Greeks. They will, however, be Hellenized in another generation. From Poros the traveller can sail to ASgina, and thence to the Piraeus. SECTION III. THE ISLANDS OF THE JEGEAN SEA. Special Intbodttctort Information. 1. Geographical Position, Sfc .—2. Steamers and Accommodation for Travellers , dj'c. 1 . Geographical Position, &c. The iEgean Sea is that part of the Mediterranean called by the Italians the Archipelago (probably a corrupted form of Alymov TiXayos, the week name), and by the Turks the White Sea, to distinguish it from the Black Sea, or Euxine. It is bounded on the N. by Macedonia and Thrace, on the YV. by Greece, and on the East by Asia Minor. Its extent has been differently esti¬ mated, and ancient writers have divided it into the Thracian, the Myrtoan, _ e Icarian , and the Cretan seas ; but the generic name is usually apphed to tlie whole expanse of water as far S. as the islands of Crete and Rhodes. The deriva¬ tion is probably from alyls, a squall, on account of its frequent and sudden storms; but other etymologies have been given. The navigation of the iEgean has been dangerous and intricate in all ages, on account of its numerous islands and rocks, which occasion eddies of wind and a rough sea, and also on account ot the Etesian, or northerly winds, which blow with great fury, especially about the equinoxes. The ancient poets frequently allude to these storms. The appearance of most of the iEgean islands, on first approaching them, is exceedingly similar. Instead of the rich verdure and fragrant groves ot Corfu and Zante, they generally present at a distance rude cliffs and verdureless acclivities, whose unformity is scarcely broken by a single tree, and whose loneliness is seldom enlivened by a village or a human habitation. “ The currents of the tideless sea, savs Sir J. E. Tennent, “ glide wavelessly around their shores, and the rays ot the unclouded sun beam fiercely down on their unsheltered hills, dimmed with a haze of light.’ ” On landing, however, every islet presents a different aspect; and every secluded hamlet a new picture of life, of manners, of costume, and sometimes of dialect. “ The soil of one is rich, luxurious, and verdant; that ot a second, only a few miles distant, is dry, scorched, and volcanic ; the harbour of another is filled with the little trading craft ot all the surrounding poits . its quays rife with the hum and hurry of commerce, and its coffee-houses crowded with the varied inhabitants of a hundred trading-marts; whilst a fourth, of equal capacities, and barely an hour’s sail beyond it, will he as quiet and noiseless as a city of the plague ; its shores unvisited, its streets untrodden, and its fields untilled. But such is the result of that tenacity to ancient usages, and that predilection for the pursuits, the habits, and the tastes of their foie- fathers, which vindicates the title of the unchanging Bast. Erom age to age the natives of these secluded spots have continued to preserve those customs and those manners whose antiquity is now their greatest charm, and which long association has rendered it almost sacrilegious to alter or abandon.” The islands of the iEgean are divided into two principal groups : 1. The Cyclades, so named from their encircling the holy sanctuary of Delos ; and 2. The Sporades, which derive their name from being, as it were, sown in a wavy line off the coasts of Macedonia, Thrace, and Asia Minor.. The Cyclades belong to the kingdom of Greece ; the Sporades, with the exception of the group 804 1. geographical position, etc. Sect. III. lying off the northern extremity of Euboea, are still under the dominion of Turkey, though the Ottomans have rarely settled in them; and they have been almost invariably treated with less oppression than the continental provinces of the Sultan. To the Sporades, therefore, the glorious verses which Byron put into the mouth of a Greek before the Revolution, are still applicable. THE ISLES OF GREECE. The Isles of Greece, the Isles of Greece! Where burning Sappho loved and sung, Where grew the arts of war and peace,— Where Delos rose, and Phcebus sprung 1 Eternal summer gilds them yet, But all, except their sun, is set. The Scian and the Teiao muse,* The hero’s harp, the lover’s lute, Have found the fame your shores refuse ; Their place of birth alone is mute To sounds which echo further west Than your sires’ “ Islands of the Blest.” The mountains look on Marathon— And Marathon looks on the sea; And musing there an hour alone, I dream'd that Greece might still be free ; For, standing on the Persians’ grave, I could not deem myself a slave. A king sate on the rocky brow Which looks o’er sea-born Salamis ; And ships, by thousands, lay below, And men in nations;—all were his ! He counted them at break of day— And when the sun set, where were they ? And where are they ? and where art thou, My country ? On thy voiceless shore The heroic lay is tuneless now— The heroic bosom beats no more ! And must thy lyre, so long divine, Degenerate into hands like mine ? ’Tis something, in the dearth of fame, Though link’d among a fetter’d race. To feel at least a patriot’s shame, Even as I sing, suffuse my face ; For what is left the poet here ? For Greeks a blush—for Greece a tear. Must ice but weep o’er days more blest ? Must we but blush ?—Our fathers bled. Earth i render hack from out thy breast A remnant of our Spartan dead I Of the three hundred grant but three, To make a new Thermopylae! What, silent still ? and silent all. Ah 1 no;—the voices of the dead Sound like a distant torrent's fall, And answer, “ Let one living head, But one arise,—we come, we come I” ’Tis but the living who are dumb. In vain—in vain : strike other chords ; Fill high the cup with Samian wine I Leave battles to the Turkish hordes And shed the blood of Scio's vine Hark ! rising to the ignoble call— How answers each bold Bacchanal I You have the Pyrrhic dance as yet; Where is the Pyrrhic phalanx gone ? Of two such lessons, why forget The nobler and the manlier one ? You have the letters Cadmus gave— ThiDk ye he meant them for a slave ? Fill high the bowl with Samian wine; We will not think of themes like these ! It made Anacreon’s song divine : He served—but served Polycrates— A tyrant; but our masters then Were still, at least, our countrymen. The tyrant of the Chersonese Was freedom’s best and bravest friend; That tyrant was Miitiades! Oh I that the present hour would lend Another despot of the kind ! Such chains as his were sure to hind. Fill high the bowl with Samian wine ! On Suli’s rock, and Parga’s shore. Exists the remnant of a line Such as the Doric mothers bore ; And there, perhaps, some seed is sown, The Heracleidan blood might own. Trust not for freedom to the Franks— They have a king who buys and sells : In native swords, and native ranks, The only hope of courage dwells : But Turkish force, and Latin fraud, Would break your shield, however broad. Fill high the bowl with Samian wine ! Our virgins dance beneath the shade— I see their glorious black eyes shine; But, gazing on each glowing maid, My own the burning tear-drop laves. To think such breasts must suckle slaves. Place me on Sunium's marbled steep, Where nothing, save the waves and I, May hear our m atual murmurs sweep ; There, swan-like, let me sing and die : A land of slaves shall ne’er be mine — Dash down yon cup of Samian wine i 2. Steamers, Accommodation for Travellers, &c. Syra (, Sira) must be the head-quarters of the traveller in the jEgean. Here are several small inns; the best is the Hotel d'Angleterre. In all the other islands strangers must generally rely on getting lodgings in private * Homer and Anacreon. JEjean Islands. 2 . steamers: accommodation for travellers. 305 houses ; and they should endeavour to procure letters of introduction to the authorities, &c. Syra is the centre of the steam navigation of the Levant; and steamers, English, French, and Austrian, are constantly arriving from and departing to Malta, Athens, Syria, Smyrna, Thessalonica, Constantinople, &c. The* packets between Smyrna and Constantinople generally touch at Chios, Lesbos, and Tenedos; and there is occasional communication by steam with others of the islands ; but the great majority can be visited only in sailing boats, and these can be hired with ease at Syra. (See General Introduction, letter h.) Let the traveller beware of engaging a captain who is not recom¬ mended by the consul, or some equally good authority ; and let Mm reduce his bargain to writing, or he will find that the voyage will be turned more to the convenience of Ms crew than of himself. In tMs part of the Mediterranean islands are so numerous that the navigation seems rather inland than at sea. One cluster is never lost sight of until a second rises to view; and as the seamen who traffic from port to port form numerous acquamtances at each, a trip through the iEgean is, to a Greek, merely a succession of visits to old friends, since he generally parts with one in the morning to sup with another at night. The propensity of the Greek sailors for puttmg in at every port whica they approach is cleverly illustrated by Leigh Hunt: “ A merchant, while sailing from Greece to Trieste, Grew vexed with the crew and avowedly testy. Because, as he said, being lazy and Greeks, They were always for putting In harbours and creeks, And instead of conv eying him quick with his lading, (As any men would who had due sense of trading,) Could never come near a green isle with a spring, But smack! they went to it like birds on the wing.” 306 1. SYROS OR SYRA (SIRA). Sect. III. Routes, and Descriptions of the several Islands. A. Belonging to Greece. Page 1. Syros or Syra (Sira) . . . 306 2. Delos, with Rhenea (Dili) . . 307 3. Tenos (Tino).310 4. Myeonos (Mycono) .... 311 5. Andros (Andro).312 6. Ceos (Zea).313 7. Cythnos (Thermia) . . . .314 8. Seriphos (Serpho) .... 315 9. Siphnos (Siphanto) .... 316 10. Cimolos (Argentiera) . . . 317 11. Melos (Milo).317 12. Pholegandros (Policandro) . 319 13. Sicinos (Sicino) . . . . . 319 14. los (Nio).319 15. Thera (Santorin) .... 320 16. Anaphe (Nanfio).321 17. Amorgos (Amorgo) .... 321 18. Naxos (Naxia).322 19. Paros (Paro).323 20. Oliaros or 1 (Anti } . . 325 Antiparos ) v 1 ' The above form the Cyclades in the widest acceptation of that term, which is confined by some writers to 12 or 15 of the islands immediately en¬ circling Delos. The following islands off Euboea also belong to Greece- 21. Scyros (Scyro) ..... 326 22. Icos (Chiliodromia) .... 327 23 ' } <*-*•>»> • • 328 24. Sciathos (Sciatho) .... 328 B. Belonging to Turlcey. Page 1. Thasos (Thaso, Tasso) . . . 329 2. Samothrace (Samothraki) . . 329 3. Lemnos (Stalimeni) .... 330 4. Imbros (Imbro).331 5. Tenedos (Tenedo), with La- gussse Insulae.331 6. Lesbos or 1 , %/r , v \ oot Mytilene } ( Metehn ) * • 331 7. Psyra (Psara) .333 8. Chios (Scio).334 9. Icaria (Nicaria), with Corseae Insulae.337 10. Samos (Samo).337 11. Patmos (Patino).339 12. Leros (Lero).340 13. Calymna (Calimno) . . . 340 14. Astypalaea (Stampalia) . . . 341 15. Cos (Stanco).341 16. Nisyros (Nisyro).342 17. Telos (Episcopi) .... 343 18. Syme (Symi).343 19. Chalce (Chalki) ..... 343 20. Rhodos or 1 /x> . Rhodes } ( Rodl > * ‘ • 344 21. Carpathos (Scarpanto) . . . 347 22. Casos (Caso).348 23. Crete (Candia).349 N.B. A few barren and unin¬ habited rocks in various parts of the iEgean are omitted in the above lists. The Italian names are those in brackets. A.—ISLANDS BELONGING TO GREECE. 1. Syros or Syra (Sira). By the vicissitudes to which places, like persons, are subject, Syra, though insignificant in past history, lias become of late years, owing to its central posi¬ tion in the JEgean, a great emporium. The ancient Greek city stood on the site of the present town, close to the bar hour ; the traces of it are fast disap¬ pearing before modem buildings : only a few fragments are left of foundations and walls. In tbe middle ages the in¬ habitants retreated for security from pirates, &c., to the lofty hill, about a mile from tbe shore, on the summit of which they built the town, now called Old Syra. Tbe island was of no im¬ portance till the war of the Revolution. Then the immigration of refugees from different parts of Greece, especially from Chios and Psara, rapidly raised it to its present flourishing condition. Phere- cydes, the instructor of Pythagoras, and 307 2. DELOS (DILI). jEgean Islands. himself one of the earliest among Greek philosophers to maintain the immor¬ tality of the soul, was a native of Syr os. * The modem town, called Hermopolis, contains upwards of 15,000 inhabitants. It is built round the harbour, on the E. side of the island. A stately lighthouse, rising on a rock in front of the harbour, a quay with numerous warehouses, and several handsome houses lately built of white marble, show the mercantile im¬ portance of the place ; but the streets are narrow and crooked, though clean and well paved. Vestiges have been found of temples of Poseidon and Amphitrite. Great attention is paid to education. There are more than 2000 scholars in the various schools. In those for girls the traveller from Western Europe is surprised to find the venerable pages of Thucydides and Demosthenes in the hands of the pupils. The favourite pro¬ menade in the cool of the evening is on a cliff to the N. of the town. Old Syra is seated on the hill, which commands the port, and is so con¬ nected with the new town by con¬ tinuous buildings, that they may be regarded as one town. This hill, from its remarkable conical form, resembles a huge sugarloaf covered with houses. The ascent is very toilsome up steep streets, crossed by a narrow flight of steps. On the top stands the church of St. George, from which the view is very fine; below may be seen the church of the Jesuits. Old Syra contains about 6000 inhabitants, mostly Roman Catholics, often at variance with their Greek neighbours, who regard them as aliens. Generally speaking the Roman Catholics of the Levant are descended from Genoese and Venetian settlers of the middle ages. The spacious harbour, now deserted, of Maria della Grazia lies on the S.W. side of the island. The old Fountain, at which the nymphs of the island were wont to assemble, still remains, as of old, the rendezvous of love, and gal¬ lantry, and gossiping. It is near the town, and the limpid water, issuing from the rock, is always in great request. Tradition tells us that the pilgrims of old, on their way to Delos, resorted hither for purification. The spot is still an object of some degree of religious re¬ spect. Syra is now to the Levant, as Malines to Belgium, a great central entrepot. The customs collected here form no small part of the Greek revenues. The traffic is chiefly in the hands of Cliians, Psyrians, and Myconians. For convenience of trade a plan has been proposed of con¬ verting the deserted islands of Delos and Rhenea into Quarantine-Ports for ships from Turkey. There is at pre¬ sent a large Lazaretto on the W. side of the Harbour. Syra is the principal seat of Protestant missionaries for the Levant, who have schools here. It is the residence of a British Consul. The Island is 10 miles in length, by 5 in breadth. The hills are chiefly formed of mica-slate, in which garnets of no great value are found. Near the sea there is marble of an inferior sort. Here, as generally in Greece, there ap¬ pears to be a good deal of iron. Wine is almost the only valuable produce of Syra. Indeed, though well cultivated, it no longer deserves the praises be¬ stowed on it by Homer—- E ufioro;, luftyXos, olvovrXntlbs, vroXvirv^os, “ Fertile in flocks, in herds, in wine, in com.” (Odyss. xv. 402.) For an account of the steamers, their arrival and departure, &c., the reader is referred to the Intkodttction, b. See also above, p. 304. 2. Delos (Dili). In passing from Syra to Delos the traveller leaves the busy scenes of com¬ mercial enterprise for silent and solemn recollections of the past. At Syra all the interest of the island is of modern date ; that of Delos belongs to hoar an¬ tiquity. Delos, the birthplace of Apollo and of Artemis, the sanctuary of the JEgean, the political centre of the Greek Islands, the holy isle, to which Athens and Sparta alike paid homage, to which the eyes of every Greek turned with instinctive veneration—Delos, with an oracle second in sanctity to that of 308 Sect. III. 2. DELOS (DILI). Delphi only, and with a magnificent temple of Apollo raised by the com¬ mon contribution of the Greek states, is now a desert and uninhabited rock, with scarcely one picturesque ruin to recall the image of its departed great¬ ness. Nor is this desolation the work of Time so much as of human hands. The Persians revered the holy majesty of the Sun-God, and profaned not his sanctuary; but later barbarians have been less scrupulous. Delos in ancient times was frequently designated as Ortygia, a name indi¬ cating its abounding in quails, and ap¬ plied also to Ephesus and to a part of Syracuse, either for this reason, or be¬ cause they also were distinguished by the especial worship of the children of Leto. That goddess, according to the legend, founded, perhaps, on some tra¬ dition of volcanic eruptions, seeking refuge from the jealousy of Hera, found none, save on the little rock of Delos, at that time one of those floating islands 80 familiar to the lively .fancy of the ancient Greeks. Apollo afterwards in gratitude fixed it and made it fast for ever. So Yirgil sings (Jin. hi. 74)— “ Sacra mart colitur medio ^ratissima tellus Nereidum matri et Neptuno JEgseo : * Quam pius Arcitenens oras et litora circum Errantem, celsa Gyaro Myconoque revinxit Ixnmotamque coli deditet contemnere ventos.” Possibly this tradition is connected with the ominous significance? attached to the occurrence of an earthquake at Delos. Herodotus (vi. 98) quotes an Oracle of ApoEo— Kiyruru xai ASXsv, Tig iov sioned by the departure of this vessel (for during its absence religion forbad the profanation of death within the city) prolonged the last hours of Socrates, and so°transmitted to posterity the pre¬ cious legacy of his dying words. Its sacred character, the security which it consequently enjoyed, its good har¬ bour and central position, made Delos a favourite seat of commerce as well as of religion and pleasure. Its festivals were thronged by merchants from Greece, Asia Minor, Phoenicia, Egypt, and-Jtaly. On the destruction of Corinth by Mum- mius, many of her citizens sought an asylum at Delos, and carried thither the traffic that had belonged to their own princely city. Cicero too speaks of the mercantile greatness of the island. But all these glories passed away with the decline of Paganism. It is now the silence of the tomb at Delos. Yet to the traveller musing on the past “ re¬ peopled is the solitary shore.” There is a sound, as in olden days, of the lute and pipe, boys and maidens are dancing in the shade of the sacred palm- trees, poets are reciting, athletes are contending, merchants are buying and selling, the holy ship from Athens, the Theoris, the ship of the gods, her prow crowned with gay wreaths of flowers, is gliding to the shore—or perchance he sees a yet stranger sight, the vast and motley hosts of the great Persian king, hushing their threats of vengeance against the Grecian race, pausing awhile from their proud career, doomed to end so ingloriously at Marathon, are fain to bow down before the God of Day, whom they worship in common with their enemies (Herod., vi. 97). Although nothing now remains, ex¬ cept crumbling fragments scattered here and there, the wrecks of past magni¬ ficence—although not one palm-tree is left on the birthplace of “far-darting Apollo and Artemis rejoicing in the winged shaft”—although the myrtle and the lentisk choke the crevices of the rocks and hide in part the ruins—yet the traveller cannot but find an interest in attempting to decipher these defaced hieroglyphics of history. The neigh- 5 (DILI). bouring islanders have carried away a great portion of the materials for their private purposes ; w hole shiploads also were conveyed to Venice and Constan¬ tinople in former years. It is ever to be regretted that the memorials of an¬ cient art should be transplanted, even for preservation, from the associations of their native place, where they stand surrounded by the charm of life and reality. The principal edifices, the Temple of Apollo and the Portico of Philip, stood near the centre of the island. The former w'as one of the most splendid in all Greece. Both appear from their substructions to have been built of white marble. Scarcely even a frieze or capital now remains un¬ injured. The portico was dedicated to Apollo by Philip II1. of Macedon. There exists still a colossal statue of Apollo, headless and grievously mutilated. It fell to the ground in a storm before the time of Plutairch. In the N. of the Island, E. of the old liar bom-, is a very remarkable oval basin, enclosed by a low wall, and about 100 yards in length. Some archseolo- gists liana supposed that it was designed for mock sea-fights, but it is too small for such a purpose. More probably it was used for the supply of water for the temple. Herodotus (ii. 170) speaks of a similar lake at Sais, in Egypt, com¬ paring it to the “ circular lake” in Delos. A little to the N. is a spring, perhaps the fountain Inopus mentioned by Pliny. On the heights above this basin are the debris of the New Athens built in Delos by the Emperor Hadrian. Proceeding eastwards, the traveller will arrive at extensive ruins, appa¬ rently of a Stadium. There are still re¬ mains of arches of blue marble, each made of one large block: the workman¬ ship is rough. The Stadium extended about 280 feet from N. to S., by 25 feet across. On the W. the seats were ar¬ ranged on the slope of the hill. On the E. side there is only a tribune, or } “ grand stand.” A similar Stadium, | called technically “ one-sided,” is de- ! scribed by Pausanias at vEgina and Epidaurus. Near this spot several in- 310 Sect. III. 3. TENOS (TINO). scriptions have been discovered, and also an altar dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis—a striking instance of the easy versatility with which the old pagans accommodated themselves to new and strange forms of worship. The only relics of the ancient city of Delos consist of some broken columns and fragments, and of traces of cisterns and mosaic pavements on the W. side of the island. The most valuable anti¬ quities were carried off some years back, it is said, by the Russians. Towards the centre of the island, which is 7 or 8 miles in circumference, rises to the height of 500 feet above the sea the renowned Mount Cynthus, which fur¬ nished an epithet by which Apollo and Artemis were most frequently invoked. It is a mere rock of coarse granite, and bears marks of volcanic agency at some distant period. In ancient times the Holy Mount was enclosed by a wall: traces of steps and blocks of marble are still found on its slopes ; and half¬ way up there is a stone arch, which led to some subterranean chamber, probably the treasury of Delos. Frag¬ ments of ancient pottery are turned up throughout the island. To the W, of Delos, and separated from it by a strait only half a mile across, and forming a good land-locked harbour, is situated the island of 'Rhenea, also called the Greater Delos. Both are now uninhabited, except by a few shepherds with their flocks. Herodotus relates that Polycrates, the tyrant of Samos, fastened Rhenea by a chain to Delos, as an offering to Apollo and Artemis. Plutarch, in his life of Nicias, mentions that Nicias, being appointed by the Athenians to conduct theTheoria, or sacred procession, to Delos, entered the island from Rhenea over a magni¬ ficent bridge thrown across the strait. On Rhenea was the cemetery of the Delians, traces of which still remain. This island is about 10 miles in cir¬ cumference, and 'is divided into two parts by a narrow isthmus at the head of a large bay. 3. Tenos (Tino). Tenos was inhabited of old by Ionians, and is said to have derived its name from its first colonist. The Tenians were compelled to serve in the fleet of Xerxes against Greece ; but one of their ships deserted to their countrymen just before the battle of Salamis, with tidings of the Persian intentions. For this good service to the national cause, the name of Tenos was inscribed on the tripod at Delphi among the liberators of Hellas (Herod., viii. 82). It con¬ tinued in the power of Venice longer than most of her zEgean possessions, which accounts for the great number of Roman Catholics here now; it re¬ sisted the efforts of Barbarossa, who reduced almost the whole of the Aegean under the Ottoman sway. Unlike the neighbouring islands, it abounds in water; whence it was some¬ times called Hydrussa in ancient times. Tenos is 60 miles in circumference; it consists of one long, lofty, rugged chain of hills, running from N.W. to S.E., and ope nin g in the latter direction into a level plain of no great size. But the hereditary industry of the Tenians— for which quality they are conspicuous among the Greeks — assisted by the abundance of rills and the friable nature of the mica slate, very different from the obstinate limestone of the moun¬ tains on the mainland, has covered the greater part of this range, even to the summit, with narrow terraces for vines and fig-trees. The modem town of Tenos, sometimes called St. Nicholas, stands on the site of the ancient city. In 1676, when visited by Spon and Wlieler, it consisted of only two or three houses ; but it has now increased to a considerable size, mainly by the influx of inhabitants from Exoburgo (to Ihovpyov), the old residence of the Vene¬ tian proweditore, or governor, which has become completely deserted since the revolution. Wit hin a five minutes’ walk of the town stands the Greek Cathedral of “ Our Lady of Good Tid¬ ings” (Evangelistria), famous for the resort of pilgrims, which forms, with its 311 JEgean Islands. 4 . myconos (mycono). courts, schools, &c., a very picturesque group of buildings. In 1824, a nun is said to have dreamed that an image of Our Lady was buried here : search was made, and an image, it is stated, was found. The fame of this was spread far and wide. Thousands of pilgrims flock here every year on the 15th (27tli) of August: from their offerings this large church was raised even before the cessation of the war ; and afterwards it was surrounded by a school, a hospital, and houses to receive the pilgrims. It is built almost entirely of white marble —brought in part from the ruins of Delos—and presents a lavish display of gold and silver in the interior. There are nearly 9000 Latins, or Roman Catholics, in the island—more than half the whole population, which amounts to about 16,000. The Latin Bishop resides in the village of Xynara. Exoburgo, the Venetian town, was perched on the peak of a lofty hill, 6 miles from the port of St. Nicholas. The ascent is very steep, but the mules in Tenos are particularly sure-footed. Below may be seen the small but highly cultivated plain, smiling with corn¬ fields, orchards, and gardens. On the summit are the ruins of the Venetian Castle, resembling somewhat one of the ruined fortresses on the Rhine. From this eminence there is a very fine view j of the Cyclades. Near the ruins is a house belonging to the Jesuits ;—also a small Franciscan convent. To the N.E. the traveller descends into a large ravine, full of small villages, mostly Roman Catholic, with their tiny houses closely packed together, and pro¬ jecting so far over the narrow streets as to make the way almost impassable to a laden mule. The churches, with their little perforated towers, resemble those in parts of Germany. The quaint i pigeon-houses also, scattered about the fields, are very noticeable. Near the village oiAvclo (A Zlo) is an ancient Greek monument, of whitish marble, in the form of a pyramid. It is very interest¬ ing to observe how the Tenian architec¬ ture appears to have been suggested by the horizontal slabs of slate, which the island affords (as the Cyclopean or Pelasgian of the mainland was suggest ed by the hard square blocks of limestone) : it is a close but unconscious imitation of the style of the Egyptian temples. The modern Tenians are very skilful in working in marble. Their tables, chimneypieces, &c., are exported to Smyrna, Constantinople, and all parts of Greece. They are also noted for the manufacture of silk gloves and stock¬ ings. The best growth of wine here is the famous Malvasian or Malmsey, for¬ merly cultivated at Monembasia (Napoli diHalvasia) inPeloponnesus. Tenos has no commerce to boast of. The harbour at the town is very wretched, but there is a tolerable one at Panormos on the N. coast. In sailing round Mount Cycnias, the S.E. promontory, the traveller is often reminded, by a violent storm, that Aiolus, King of the Winds, was fabled to hold his court in the caves of this mountain. 4. Myconos (Mycono). The name of Myconos or Mycone [ scarcely occurs in history. It appears | that the island was colonised by Ionians from Athens. Here it was that Datis stayed to breathe awhile on his flight from Marathon; and here Herodotus (iii. 119) relates that the Persian General was visited by a dream, in consequence of which he caused a statue of Apollo, car¬ ried away from Delium in Boeotia, to be restored to Delos. The Myconians were noted of old for their poverty and parsimony-—results, doubtless, of their churlish soil—whence the proverbial ex¬ pression of M uxojvto; yur&iv for a disagree¬ able neighbour. Scylax speaks of two towns in this island; perhaps the second | of them stood on one of the creeks of the | northern coast, Panormus and Ptelia. Of the ancient, which Ross believes to have occupied the same site with the modem town, scarce a vestige remains. Nor are there any relics of antiquity elsewhere in the island. The name of Paleocastron, given to one of the hills, excites the hopes of the traveller ; but there is nothing to show, except a small monastery—the only habitation 312 5. ANDROS (ANDRO). out of the town. In the middle ages Myconos formed part of the ducliy° of Naxos. It is 36 miles in circumference, and is for the most part a miserable rock, the only cultivated or cultivable ground being a few declivities round the town, where are some cornfields and vineyards : the rest affords pasture for a few flocks ; and the huge blocks of granite, wildly strewn over the hills, recall the tradition that this island was the scene of the contest between the Giants and Hercules. Nevertheless, the town, situated on the W. side, is one of the largest and most prosperous in the -®gean Sea, on account of its maritime commerce. There are thirty ships, and a large number of boats belonging to the islanders, who are mostly seafaring men. The population numbers about 6000 souls. Strabo and Pliny (IV. H., vii. 37) tell us that the Myconians be¬ come bald at a very early age. However this may be, they are generally a hand¬ some race, even among the handsome islanders of the JEgean. Many of the inhabitants of Psara settled here in 1824, after the destruction of their own homes by the Turks. The town abounds in small churches and chapels, many of which have been erected as thank-offer¬ ings for escapes from shipwreck. The bay on which it is built is much ex¬ posed to the W. ; but round the town to the southward there is a harbour running far in to the E. and S.E., and sheltered from the W. by a cape and islet. Here ships can winter in perfect safety. 5, Andros (Andro). Andros, the most northerly and one of the largest of the Cyclades, is 21 miles long and 8 broad. It is separated from the S.E. promontory of Euboea (the “ Euboicse cautes, ultorque Caphareus ” of Virgil) by a narrow strait, now known as the Doro passage, and still dreaded by sailors. According to tradition, this island derived its name from the seer Andrus, or from Andreus, a general of j Rhadamanthus. It was colonised by lonians, and early attained so much im- Sect. III. Acanthus and to Stagirus in Chalcidice, about b.c. 654 (Thucyd. iv. 84, 88). The Andrians were compelled to join the fleet of Xerxes in his invasion of Greece, b.c. 480; in consequence of which Themistoeles afterwards attempt¬ ed to impose a heavy fine on the people, and, on their refusing to pay it, laid siege to their city, but was unable to : reduce it. Herodotus (viii. Ill) relates I that Themistoeles threatened them with i the two powerful deities of the Athenians I Persuasion and Necessity ; when the I Andrians retorted that they possessed two churlish gods—Poverty and Ina- i bility, who prevented them from com¬ plying with his exactions. The island, however, afterwards became subject to Athens, and, at a later period, to Ma¬ cedonia. It was taken by the Romans in their war with Philip, b.c. 200, and given over to their ally Attalus (Liv. xxxi. 45). The ancient city, also called Andros, 1 was situated nearly in the middle of the ( western coast of the island. It had no port of its own, but its inhabitants used li the fine harborn. in the neighbourhood, called G-aurion, a name which it still retains. There are yet extensive re¬ mains ; and Ross discovered several inscriptions, particularly an interesting hymn to Isis in hexameter verse, of which there is a copy in the Classical Museum (vol. i. p. 34). The modern town of Andros is, on the other hand, placed on the E. side of the island, where it has a bad and shallow port. The present population of the whole island is estimated at about 16,000, of which number about one-third are’ of Albanian race, the descendants of colo¬ nists who settled here at various periods —offshoots, probably, of the Albanians who form the chief inhabitants of the southern portion of Euboea, as well as of the islands of Salamis, Poros, Hydra, and Spetzia. The soil of Andros is fertile, and it produces a considerable quantity of silk and wine. The corn raised here generally suffices for the con¬ sumption of the inhabitants. Andros ! was also celebrated for its wine in anti- portance as to send out colonies to quity, and was regarded as sacred to 313 JEgean Islands. 6. ceos (zea). Dionysus. There was a tradition that, : during the festival of this god, a foun¬ tain flowed with wine (Plin. ii. 103, xxxi. 13 ; Paus. vi. 26). 6. Ceos (Zea). From its numerous remains of an¬ tiquity, Ceos is more deserving of a visit than most of (the JEgean islands. It is situated about 13 miles S.E. of the pro¬ montory of Sunium; and is 14 mi les in length from north to south, and 10 in breadth from east to west. Pliny (iv. 12) says, that Ceos was once united to Euboea, and was 500 stadia long, but that four-fifths of it were carried away by the sea. According to a legend pre¬ served by Herachdes Ponticus, Ceos was originally called Hycfrussa, and was inhabited by nymphs, who after- ] wards crossed over to Carystus, having been frightened away from the island j by a Hon; whence a promontory of Ceos was called Leon. The same authority further states that a colony was after- 1) wards planted here by Ceos from Nau- i pactus. In historical times the island ( was inhabited by Ionian#; and the j inhabitants fought on the national side I at Artemisium and Salamis (Herod., viii. 1, 46). Ceos once possessed four towns; but in the time of Strabo, two of them were already deserted, the citizens of Coressia having been transferred to Iulis, and those of Poeeessa to Carthaea. 1. Iulis (I nuXi'i), the most important town of Ceos, is celebrated as the birth¬ place of the two great lyric poets Si¬ monides and Bacchylides, of the sophist Prodicus, of the physician Erasistratus, and of the peripatetic philosopher Ariston. From the great celebrity of t Simonides, he was often called emphati¬ cally the Cean; and so Horace alludes to his poetry under the name of Cece j CamencB (Carm., iv. 9; ii. 1). Iulis k wa3 situated on a bill about 25 stadia ♦ from the sea, in the northern part of I the island, on the same site as the l modern town of Ceos (Zea), now the I only one hi the island. There are several • remains of Iulis; the most important s a colossal lion, about 20 feet in length, ,ivhich at present is lying a quarter of m hour east of the town. The legend Greece. already quoted probably lias reference to this lion. A portion of the Arundel Marbles is said to have been discovered in the 17th century among the ruins of this city. The laws of Iulis, relating to the morals of the citizens and then mode of life, were very celebrated in antiquity; and hence “ Cean Laws” were used pro¬ verbially to indicate any excellent insti¬ tutions whatsoever. Strabo has pre¬ served from Menander an ancient legal ma xim , of particular repute:— o fiii hvva.f/.ivo; Tfiv xaXch; »l xaxu;. “He who cannot lead an honourable, does not lead an evil life." It was said that every citizen above 60 years of age was obliged to put an end to his life by poison, for which disagreeable legal pro¬ vision we find two reasons assigned; one that there might be a sufficient maintenance left for the other inhabit¬ ants; and the other, that they might not suffer from sickness or weakness hi their old age. Other Cean laws are mentioned by Heraclides and Athenaeus. The Ceans were noted for their modesty and sobriety, in opposition to the Chians, and hence the adage, oh X7o; dxxh Kilo; (Aristoph. Ban., 970). 2. Coressia, or Coressus, was the port- town of Iulis. Near it was a temple of Apollo Smintheus; and the small stream Elixus flowed by it into the sea. There are a few remains of the town on the heights above the west side of the bay. This harbour is large and com¬ modious, fit for ships of any burden, and about 3 miles from the modern town. 3. Carthaea was situated on the south¬ eastern side of the island. There are coins of this town extant, as well as considerable remains on the spot. The ancient road from Iulis to Carthaea is one of the most interesting relics of an¬ tiquity in all Greece. It was broad and level, and supported by a strong wall, remains of which may be traced in several places. 4. Poeeessa (Tlodiatrtt) was situated on the south-western side of the island, on a high and steep promontory. Its ruins are inconsiderable, but still preserve their ancient name. P 814 Sect. III. 7. CYTHNOS (THERMIA). The modern town, as we have already said, occupies the site of Iulis. Its ap¬ pearance resembles that of Old Si/ra, the houses being piled up in terraces one above the other, so that the roofs of one range sometimes serve as a street to the higher range. Great ravages were com¬ mitted here by the Russians when they visited Ceos in the expedition of 1769. Clarke says, “ the inhabitants told us their houses were entirely stripped by them. The specious promises they held out to the people of Greece are now seen in then’ true light by that people, and they will not again become the dupes of any Scythian treaty.” So Sonnini tells us that the Russians on the same occasion “ had rendered the name of liberty odious at Paros ; the inhabitants preferred Turkish despotism to Russian emancipation.” The whole population of the island does not exceed at the present day 4000, nearly all of whom live in the town, Ceos produces silk, wine, &c., like the neighbouring isles; but its prin¬ cipal article of commerce is the Yalonia acorn (the acorn of the Quercus 2Egi- loj>s), which is exported in large quan¬ tities for the use of tanners. There are three barren and uninha¬ bited islets a few miles from Ceos, and which may be conveniently treated of under the same head. 1. Helena, or Maoris ( Macronisi,i. e. Long Island), derived its most ancient name from a tradition of Helen having landed on its shores. It is situated between Ceos and Sunium, and is about 3 miles broad and 7 long. The island shows little if any traces of ever having been inhabited in any age. Hear its southern extremity, the temple of Sunium is seen to the greatest possible advantage, as it appears in this point of view to be almost entire. 2. Gyaros ( Gioura , or Jour a) is a barren and now uninhabited rock be¬ tween Ceos and Tenos. It is probably the same with Gyroe, alluded to by Homer (Od., iv. 507). In the time of Augustus its citizens are recorded to have petitioned the Emperor for a dimi¬ nution of their tribute, which amounted only to 100 drachmas. Gyaros was one of the islands of the dEgean used by the Romans as a place of banishment. So Juvenal says (Sat., i. 73)— “ Aude aliquid brevibus Gyaris et carcere dignum Si vis esse aliquis.” 3. Belbina (St. George) is an islet at the entrance of the Saronic Gulf, unin¬ habited except by a few fishermen. 7. Cythnos (Thermia). This, like the neighbouring islands, was colonised by lonians. Part of the ancient population of Cyprus traced its descent to Cythnian settlers (Herod., vii. 90); but Cythnos does not appear to have been at any time either wealthy or powerful. It was one of the few islands that refused to give earth and water to the envoys of Darius ; and it supplied two ships to the Grecian fleet at Salamis. (Herod., viii. 46.) It was a member of the confederacy of the iEgean Islands against Persia, and we find it one of the tributaries of Athens when the Peloponnesian war began. Demos¬ thenes (»•£{< jtnru%iMs) speaks very con¬ temptuously of unimportant places like “ Siphnos and Cythnos.” There is only one Cythnian of note in antiquity, Cydias the Painter—and by Pliny and other ancient authors the island is only men¬ tioned as producing good cheese. In the war between Rome and Philip III. of Macedon, it was attacked by the Romans ; but they retired after a very short siege, not considering the place worthy of their trouble. (Livy, xxxi. 15, 45.) After the death of Nero, an impostor, who assumed the name of that Emperor, was driven by a storm to Cythnos, where he endeavoured to raise a disturbance, but was seized and put to death by Calpurnius, the Proconsul of Galba. (Tacit. Hist., ii. 8, 9.) Probably the island was used as a place of banish¬ ment under the Emperors. The ancient city stood on the W. coast, upon a cliff rising over the sea to the height of 600 feet. The only remains of it now are some foundations; from which it ap¬ pears to have been large enough for 10,000 inhabitants. The situation is so advantageous, with two good harbours Mjean Islands. 8. seriphos (serpho). 315 to the X., Phylcias (from fixes, sea- j Barbarossa about 1540 : it is now de- toeed), and Colonna (from a solitary j column standing near the shore), and j two more to the S., that an idea has been entertained of again making it the seat of the local government. The ruins j have acquired among the islanders the name of Hebreeokastron, or “ Jews' Cas¬ tle ,” a name often applied in contempt j by Greek peasants to any ancient build- J ing whatsoever erected by strangers. On the N.E. near Cape Cephalus is j the small fork-shaped Port of St. Irene; having a chapel with a few houses on the S., and on the X. the famous warm springs, from which the island derives its modern name (tula, to burn), probably an ancient term handed down tradi¬ tionally. These warm-springs, though j not mentioned by ancient authors, are j thought to have been used in early times. [ At the present day 400 or 500 invalids j resort here every summer from Greece and Turkey; but the accommodation is very unworthy of the first Bathing- place in Greece. Palseocastron (or TA upaias :rc xccffrgov, the Castle of the Fair Lady) is seated on a rock overhanging the sea, N.W. of the springs, and commands a wide pros¬ pect of JEgina, Sunium, Peloponnesus, and most of the Cyclades. In the Mid¬ dle Ages this was the most important place in the island, containing about 2000 inhabitants ; it was in fact a nest of pirates, who infested the surrounding seas. It has an Iliad of its own in the tradition of the Cythnians, who relate how it stood a siege of 10 years, and was taken at last by the stratagem of a Turk, who disguised himself as a wo¬ man. Hence, perhaps, one of its names. Most probably thi3 place was taken by serted and m ruins. The modern capital is situated inland about 4 miles from St. Irene, and con¬ tains barely 2000 inhabitants. It is called by the same name as the island, or sometimes Messaria. A few miles to the S. is another village, named Syl- lacca {ru. liy.Xax.Kci, that is, the Caves or Hollows), with a population of about 1400. Here is a large grotto; a few veins of marble and chalk intersect the rock and form stalactites. On Easter Day the villagers come here to dance by torchlight. In the S. of the island iron is found. Cythnos is the poorest of all the I Cyclades in antiquities. Its physical character resembles that of Tenos, but J it is less picturesque. The population ; in 1773 was only 1500; but the Greek | Devolution caused many Cythnians, j who had been engaged in various trades at Smyrna, Constantinople, &c., to re¬ turn to thefr native island. Notwith¬ standing the possession of so many good harbours, they have only 3 or 4 boats. Their principal produce is barley, which they consume; wine, of which about half the quantity made is exported; and honey of good quality. There are about 2000 sheep, goats, and swine on the island, which abounds in red-legged partridges. The population is entirely concentrated in the two villages, and does not exceed 3500 at the present day. The Cythnians are a quiet, ingenious, cheerful race ; very religious. Among the elderly people are still found some old-fashioned phrases and old-fashioned costumes, which are rapidly disappear¬ ing here as elsewhere in Greece. 8. Seriphos. (Serpho) . Seriphos is a small rocky island lying I between Cythnos and Siplinos. It was celebrated in mythology as the place where Danae and Perseus landed after they had been exposed by Acrisius, where Perseus was brought up, and where he afterwards turned the inha¬ bitants into stone with the Gorgon’s head—a legend suggested, perhaps, by the character of the soil. History tells P 2 316 Sect. III. 9. SIPHNOS (siPHANTo). us that Seriphos was colonized by Ioni- ans from Athens, and that it was one of the few islands which refused sub¬ mission to Xerxes, and had a share in the glory of Salamis (Herodotus, viii. 46,48). At a later period the Seriphians were noted for their poverty and wretch¬ edness ; and for this reason the island was employed by the Roman Emperors as a place of banishment for state crimi¬ nals (Tacit. Ann., ii. 85 ; iv. 21; Juve¬ nal, x. 170). Iron is abundant here. The only town, or rather village, is situated 3 miles from the harbour on a rocky hill 800 feet high, and contains the whole population of Seriphos, that is, about 2000 souls. The ancient city stood on the same site; but there are no ruins of importance. The island produces a little wine and corn. On the S.W. side there is a good harbour, called by the Franks Porta Catena, from a story of its mouth having been formerly closed with a chain. 9. SlPHNOS (SlPHANTO). Siphnos, situated to the S.E. of Seri¬ phos, is of an oblong form, and about 36 miles in circumference. Its original name was Merope, and it is said to have derived its present appellation from the leader of the Ionian colony which settled here. In consequence of their gold and silver mines, of which the remains are still visible, the Sipbnians attained great prosperity, and were regarded in the time of Herodotus as the wealthiest of the islanders. Then.’ treasury at Delphi, in which they deposited the tenth of the produce of their mines, was equal in wealth to that of any other Greek state. Their riches, however, exposed them to pillage; and a party of Samian exiles in the time of Polycrates invaded the island, and compelled them to pay 100 talents (Herodot., iii. 57, 58). Siphnos refused tribute to Xerxes, and one of its ships fought on the national side at Salamis (Herod., viii. 46). At a later period the mines were less productive; and Pausanias (x. 11) relates that, in consequence of the Siphnians neglecting to send the tithe of their treasure to Delphi, the god destroyed their mines by an inundation of the sea. The moral character of these islanders seems not to have stood high of old, for to act like a Siphnian (2;ipw«£s(v) was a term of reproach. But, owing perhaps to the exhaustion of their mineral riches, the Sipbnians of the present day have im¬ proved on their ancestors. They are a remarkably quiet and industrious race, well worthy of their picturesque and fertile island, with its delightful climate and abundance of excellent water, that great luxury of the East. A number of the islanders, whom their native land, though well cultivated, is not able to support, find employment at Athens, Constantinople, &c., as servants or tradesmen. The population amounts altogether to about 6000. A fine range of hills extends along the island from N.W. to S.E., and there is a small monastery dedicated to St. Elias on the highest summit, which reaches an elevation of 3000 feet. On the table-land towards the E., and 1000 feet above the sea, stands a group of villages, containing about 5000 inhabit¬ ants ; the central and largest is called Stauri (203 (Texedo). This island has retained its name ever since the time of Homer. Pre¬ viously it had been called Leucophrys, Calydna, Phccnice, and Lymessus ; the mythical derivation of its usual name is from Tenes, the son of Cycnus. Its circumference is httle more than 10 ] miles, but it has always enjoyed an im- ! portance very disproportionate to its size, on account of its position near the j mouth of the Hellespont, from which it is about 12 mile3 distant. Its dist¬ ance from the coast of the Troad is 5 miles; and in the story of the Trojan war it appears as the station to which the Greeks withdrew their fleet, in order to induce the Trojans to think that they had departed. Tenedos had an Aeolian city of the EXEDOS.— 6 . LESBOS. same name, with two harbours, which were used by Xerxes as a naval station in the Persian war. The island after¬ wards became a tributary ally of Athens, and adhered to her diu-ing the whole of the Peloponnesian war, and down to the peace of Antalcidas, by which it was surrendered to the Persians. At the Macedonian conquest Tenedos re¬ gained its liberty. In the war against Philip III. the Romans used the island as a naval station, and in the Mitliri- datic war Lucullus gained a victory over Mithridates off its shores. About this time the Tenediaus placed them¬ selves under the protection of Alexandria Troas. In the middle ages the pos¬ session of the island was long contested between the Turks and the Venetians. At the present day it contains about 7000 inhabitants, and, though rugged, it is fertile and well cultivated. The town, on the X.E. side of the island, is defended by a mediaeval fortress, and has a port with tolerably good anchorage. In former ages it was a sort of depot for the produce destined for Constantinople ; and Justinian erected here a large warehouse, the ruins of which are still extant, where vessels loaded with com from Alexandria dis¬ charged their cargoes, when they hap¬ pened to be prevented, as is often the case, by contrary winds, from making a passage through the Hellespont or Dar¬ danelles. Close to the mouth of the Helles¬ pont are a cluster of small islets, the Lagussce of the ancients, and now known to English sailors as the Rabbit Islands. The largest of these is 4 miles in length, and possesses an excellent spring of water. 6. Lesbos (Mttilexe, Metelix). In early times Lesbos was called by | various names, the chief of which were [ Issa, Pelasgia, and Macaria ; the late Greek writers called it Mytilene, from its capital, and this appellation has been preserved to the present day. The earliest reputed inhabitants were Pe- j lasgians ; the next, an Ionian colony, j said to have settled here two genera- 332 6. LESBOS (mytilene, metelin). tions before tbe Trojan war ; lastly, at the time of the great JEolic migration (130 years after the Trojan war, accord¬ ing to the mythical chronology), the island was colonised by JEolians, who founded in it an Hexapolis, consisting of the six cities, Mytilene, Methymna, Eresus, Pyrrlia, Antissa, and Arisbe, afterwards reduced to five through the destruction of Arisbe by the Methym- liseans. The ^Eolians of Lesbos after¬ wards founded numerous settlements along the coast of the Troad, and in the region of Mount Ida, The island is most important in tlie early history of Greece, as the native land of the 2Eolian school of lyric poetry. It was the birth-place of the musician and poet Terpander, of the lyric poets Alcaeus, Sappho, and others, and of the dithyrambic poet Arion. Other forms of literature and philosophy early and long flourished in Lesbos ; the sage and statesman Pittacus, the historians Hel- lanicus and Theophanes, and the phi¬ losophers Theophrastus and Phanias, were all Lesbians. The chief facts in the political history of this island are connected with the principal city Mytilene, which stood on the E. side, upon a promontory which was once an island, and both sides of which formed excellent harbours. Im¬ portant hints are furnished by the frag¬ ments of the poetry of Alcaeus, whence it seems that, after the rule and over¬ throw of a series of tyrants, the island was nearly ruhied by the savage con¬ flict of internal factions, until Pittacus was appointed to a sort of dictatorship. Meanwhile the Lesbians had grown to great importance as a naval power; and at the beginning of the seventh century B.c., they waged war with the Athenians for the possession of Sigeum at the mouth of the Hellespont, which was finally assigned to the latter by the award of Periander, tyrant of Corinth. Lesbos submitted to the Persians after the conquest of Ionia and iEolis, but joined actively in the Ionian revolt, after the failure of which it again became sub¬ ject to Persia, and took part in the expedition of Xerxes against Greece. Sect. III. After the Persian war it became one of the most important members of the Athenian confederacy, retaining, unlike the other allies except Chios, its inde¬ pendence till the 4th year of the Pelo¬ ponnesian war, b.c. 428, when all i Lesbos revolted, with the exception of I the town of Methymna. The progress ! and suppression of this revolt forms one j of the most interesting episodes in the j history of the Peloponnesian war. The | result broke the power of the Lesbians. 1 After various vicissitudes they fell under i the power of Mithridates, and passed from him to the Romans. One of the j Bvzantine emperors of the Palaeologus j dynasty ceded Lesbos to a Venetian { family, who preserved their sovereignty till Mahommed II. landed on the island, and besieged the cliief town, which was basely betrayed to him by the governor in the hope of being continued in his command. The Sultan, however, is re¬ lated, while he reaped the benefit of the treachery, to have inflicted instant death on the traitor. This “ noble and pleasant island ” (insula nobilis et amceiia , Tacit. Hist, vi. 3) is separated from the coast of Asia Minor by a strait which varies in breadth from 7 to 10 miles, and has the appearance of a majestic river. Lesbos is about 33 miles in length from E. to W., by about 26 miles in breadth. Though in parts rugged and moun¬ tainous, it has, nevertheless, a con¬ siderable extent of level and very fert ile land, and is generally salubrious. The wines of Lesbos were among the most celebrated of the ancient world; and still continue to preserve some, though but a slender portion of then’ an¬ cient reputation. The figs are excel¬ lent, and large quantities of oil are annually shipped for Constantinople and other places. The produce of corn is insufficient for the supply of the island. Timber aud pitch are derived from the pine forests with which the mountains are covered. The chief town, Castron, on the site of the ancient Mytilene, stands on the E. coast of the island, and contains many fragments of pillars, sculptures, &c., but no consider- 333 JEgecin Islands. PSYRA ( PS Alt a). able Hellenic ruin ; it has about 6000 inhabitants. Some vestiges of antiquity may still be seen in the beautiful gardens surrounding the modern town. The castle, which is very large, was erected during the middle ages, and with its embattled walls and towers constitutes a striking feature in the ap¬ pearance of the island. The two ports adjacent to the town are too shallow and confined for the requirements of modem navigation; but Lesbos can boast of two of the finest harbours in the world, Port Gero (mu Tigov), or Olivier, and Port Callone. The former, in the S.E. angle of the island, has a narrow entrance, but the water is deep, and within it expands into a noble basin capable of containing the largest fleets. Port Callone, on the S. side of the island, is a bay of the sea similar to that last mentioned, but of more ample dimen¬ sions, nearly, in fact, intersecting the island. It "has deep water throughout, but the narrowness of the entrance causes it to be but little frequented. Molivo, on the X. coast, is the modem representative of the ancient Me- thymna. Before the war of the Greek revolu¬ tion Lesbos is said to have contained 60,000 inhabitants, one half of whom were Turks and the rest Greeks. But the island suffered so severely from the calamities of that period that the po¬ pulation is now reduced to 30,000. The excursions into the interior are re¬ plete with interest from the picturesque scenery and the magnificent views com¬ manded from many of the heights. The country houses are generally built of stone, with square towers, which are entered by steps on the outside, and rise prominently above the trees of the gardens. These towers are inhabited by the proprietors, while the ground floors are allotted to the cattle and poultry, or serve as store-houses for com and oil. Lesbos is the residence of a British Fiee-cott-wZ, Mr. Newton, whose eminent classical and antiquarian attainments are well known. The situation of this island is particularly favourable for commercial enterprise, as it commands an extensive line of coast, and is placed midway between the Gulf of Smyrna and the Dardanelles, in the direct course of the steamers to and from Con¬ stantinople. There can be no doubt but that, under au enlightened govern¬ ment, Lesbos would speedily recover its ancient prosperity. 7. Psyea (Psara). This little islet, like Hydra and Spet- zia, is rarely mentioned by the ancient writers ; but, also like them, it has ac¬ quired great renown from the gallantry of its inhabitants during the War of Independence. General Gordon (His¬ tory of the GreeJc Revolution, book i. chap, ii.) has truly remarked how great would have been the astonishment of an ancient Greek, could some oracle have foretold to hhn that these naked and desert rocks would one day assert with their fleets the liberty of Hellas, like Athens and JEgina dining the Persian war ! The Hydriots and Spet- ziots were of Albanian race, and rude and fierce seamen; but the Psarians, Asiatic Greeks, although eminent among their countrymen for spirit and enter¬ prise, were of a more humane, sprightly, and pliable temper. They were in¬ debted for their prosperity to the em¬ ployment afforded their marine by the industrious and polished merchants of the neighbouring Chios. The popula¬ tion of Psara, reckoned at 6000 souls (including 1800 seamen) when the in¬ surrection began in 1821, was after- wards more than doubled by Christian refugees from Asia Minor, and by aux¬ iliaries from Macedonia and Thessaly. Under the guidance of the celebrated brulotier Canaris, and of other gallant leaders, the Psarians inflicted great damage on the Turks; and in 1824 the Sultan determined to crush them, and the Capitan-Pasha in person ap¬ peared before their isle with nearly 200 ships of various sizes, carrying 14,000 Moslem troops on board. The result is very graphically described by General Gordon (book iv. chap. 2) : “ Psara,” he says, “ is a small, sterile. 334 8. CHIOS (scio). Sect. III. and mountainous island, with a com¬ modious roadstead to the S.E., in which quarter the town was built; . . . in the interior, a few acres of ground had been, at a vast expense, converted into vineyards by the richer citizens, and about 150 fig-trees afforded the only shade that the Psarians could enjoy in their burning summer. There were four wells (three of them of brackish water), and each house had a cistern.” When attacked by the Turks, the number of fighting men on the island (including the refugees, &c.) did not fall short of 5000 men. At a final council of war, Canaris strongly urged the expediency of fighting upon the sea: his opinion was unfortunately overruled; and at daybreak, on July 3, 1824, the Turkish fleet commenced a violent cannonade against the town,, while, hidden by clouds of smoke, the transports steered towards a little sandy cove at the N.W. angle of the island, where they disembarked the troops unperceived and unresisted, the attention of the Greeks being fixed on the false attack at the port. The Mos¬ lem soldiers rushed forward, driving before them some weak parties of the Christians, and at 7 o’clock in the morning planted the Ottoman standard on the summit of the hills overlooking the town. At that sight, even the bravest of the Psarians saw that the fate of their country was decided. Men, women, and children, hurrying to the beach, rushed on hoard their ships, or plunged into the waves, where a multitude of them perished, many of their harks being intercepted or swamped. About 2000 of the Psa¬ rians, however, forced then* way through the fleet of the infidels, and, taking refuge at iEgina and elsewhere in Greece, lived to avenge, under Canaris, the downfall of their country. Meanwhile the Turks penetrated into the town on all sides ; and Psara, like Scio, sank in flames and blood. Six hundred of the Macedonian auxili¬ aries threw themselves into the fortified convent of St. Nicholas, where they de¬ fended themselves desperately till night put an end to the conflict. When day I dawned on the 4th, the Capitan-Pasha I commanded the whole of his troops to ;i renew the attack. At length the Chris- 0 tians, spent with wounds and fatigue, j having lost two-thirds of their number, | and hopeless of relief, determined to | die, but not without glory and revenge. I At 5 o’clock in the afternoon they | ceased their fire ; and the Turks, dart- t ing on sword in hand, scaled the walls j! on every side; when suddenly the Hel- i lenic flag was lowered ; a white banner, j inscribed with the words “ Liberty or 1 Death ! ” waved in the air; fire was set j to the powder-magazine in the convent, ! and a tremendous explosion, shaking the isle, and felt far out at sea, buried t in the ruins of St. Nicholas thousands of the conquerors and the conquered. The carnage was enormous. Accord¬ ing to a calculation carefully drawn up by the surviving Psarians,' 3600 per¬ sons were missing out of their indige¬ nous population; of the auxiliaries i hardly one escaped, and very few of the refugees. Pew captives were taken, on account of the intense exasperation of the Moslems, who reckoned their own loss at 4000. In the article of i plunder they were disappointed, espe- t cially with respect to slaves, for many Psarian women drowned themselves | with their infants rather than yield. i The Capitan-Pasha took or burnt up- ! wards of 100 sail of ships and small craft, and despatched to Constant!- | nople 200 prisoners, 500 heads, 1200 ears, and 35 Greek flags, trophies which were exposed at the Seraglio gate (July 24) to the gaze of the capital, with a pompous inscription affixed to them.* There is now nothing at Psara to i repay a visit, as, though some of the old inhabitants have returned to their native place, the island has never re- j covered from its desolating calamities. 8. Chios (Scio). Various fanciful reasons have been given for the name of this celebrated * See History, &c., vol. ii. p. 165. The above account of the Fall of Psara is an abstract of General Gordon’s masterly narrative. 335 JEgzan Islands. 8. Chios (scio). island (see Steplianus sub voce). Its 1 the Ionian confederation. At the time earlier appellations were iEthalia, Ma- of the conquest of Ionia by Cyrus, the cris (an epithet probably derived from Chians were protected by their insular its form), and Pitvusa,' or Pine Isle , position, for at that time the Persians from its pine forests. Cliios lies from had no navy. They made common Is. to S., and its extreme length is 32 cause with the Ionians in the revolt of miles ; its greatest width 18 miles ; its b.C. 499, and they had 100 ships in the circumference about 110 miles. Its great sea-fight off Miletus. After the area is nearly 400 square miles, or about defeat of the allies, the Persians landed thrice the area of the Isle of Wight; in Cliios, burnt the cities and temples, and it is separated from the shore of and carried off all the most beautiful Asia Minor by a strait about 7 miles girls (Herod, vi. 8, 32). The battle of across. Its rocky and mountainous Mycale (b.C. 479) restored freedom to surface justifies the epithet («/«il the Cliians ; and they remained in alli- tctra) in the Homeric hymn, quoted by ance with Athens from that time forth Tkucvclides (iii. 104)/ The wine of till B.C. 412, when they broke off from Chios' was highly esteemed in antiquity, the Athenians, who soon after cruelly and it still enjoys some repute. Chios 1 ravaged their beautiful and well-culti- is also noted for its figs and for its silk, vated island, which had suffered no The gum mastic, one of its chief source's calamity since the Persian invasion, of wealth, is the product of a species of The chief city was not, however, taken lentisk (Pistaeia lentiscus). Incisions ! until a later period. The subsequent are made in the bark of the slirubs liistory of Chios consists only of a few about the 1st of August, when, in a 1 disconnected facts. The island es- day or two, the mastic begins to drop poused the cause of the Romans in forth, and in the course of a week it is their wars with Antiochus, and appears sufficiently hardened to be removed. It to have been declared a “ libera civi- is then refined and exported for the use j tas,” which term signifies a certain of the Turkish ladies, who amuse their amount of self-government under the indolence by chewing it, deriving from Roman dominion, and a less direct that practice as much gratification as | subjection to the governor of a pro- their male relations enjoy by inhaling [ vince. But at a later period Chios was the fumes of tobacco. It is also used one of the islands included in the Insn- in certain varnishes. I arum provincia established by 1 espa- The ancient capital of Cliios occupied sian. Its modem history is a repetition the site of the modem cliief town, of old calamities. where some remains of it are still In the early part of the fourteenth visible. The same names, slightly! century the Turks took the city of altered, point out the situations of Del- \ Chios, and massacred the inhabitants. phinium, Bolissus, and Cardamyle — In 1346 the island fell into the hands of towns mentioned by the ancient writers, the Genoese, who held it for nearly two Chios was one of the cities -which centuries and a half, -when it was con- claimed to be the birthplace of Homer, \ quered by the Turks. But the Chians “ the blind old man of Scio’s rocky were better treated than, perhaps, any isle and here, as in Ithaca, the inlia- other of the Christian subjects of the bitants still point out a ruin which Porte. The island was considered the they call Homer's School. The most peculiar demesne of the Sultana Mother; distinguished natives of Chios were Ion, and the inhabitants were left with little the tragic poet; Theopompus, the his- interference on the part of the Turks, torian ; and in the present century, the on condition of their annually furnish- i patriotic and accomplished Coray. The ing a certain quantity of mastic for the oldest inhabitants were Pelasgians ; but use of the imperial seraglio, and paying Chios is enumerated by Herodotus (i. a moderate capitation-tax. And it is 18, 142) among the insular states of to their comparative exemption from 336 Sect. III. 8. CHIOS (scio). Turkish despotism and rapacity that them great prosperity and civilization are to be ascribed. Before the Greek Revolution, the island contained nume¬ rous villages and several considerable towns, besides the capital, built chiefly by the Genoese, and which has been compared with its environs to Genoa and its territory in miniature. This city, situated at the foot of the moun¬ tains on the E. coast, con tamed 30,000 inhabitants, the population of the whole island amounting to about 110,000, all Greeks, with the exception of 6000 Turks, and a few Latins and Jews. The capital -was remarkable for the beauty of its churches, convents, and houses. Ardent promoters of education, and passionately fond of their native land, the rich citizens, sparing no ex¬ pense to embelhsh it, had founded a splendid college, with libraries, hos¬ pitals, &c. Throughout the Levant, as also in Western Europe, the Chians had established the wealthiest and most considerable Greek houses. Their cha¬ racter partook of the softness of their climate, and of the delicacy of the pro¬ ducts of their soil. Mild, gay, lively, acute, industrious, and timid, the men succeeded alike in commerce and in literature; while the women were cele¬ brated for then’ charms and grace; and the whole people, busy and contented, neither sought nor wished for a change in their political condition. They were hurried into the insurrection by bands of adventurers from the neighbouring island of Samos. The events which ensued are admirably described by Gordon (book ii. chap. 2); and present a lively image of the sufferings of this unfortunate island twenty-three centu¬ ries before, when the barbarous Persians ravaged it. The Samians landed in the spring of 1822, and forced a number of the Chians to join them. Hereupon the Turkish Governor shut himself up in the Castle of Scio, awaiting the arrival of succour. The Capitan Pasha soon appeared with a powerful fleet; and an army of fana¬ tical Moslems was ferried across from the opposite coast of Asia Minor, and let loose upon the rich and unfortunate island. Then commenced an unparal¬ leled work of destruction. The inha¬ bitants, taken by surprise, and enervated by long peace and prosperity, offered no effectual resistance. The whole island was given up to indiscriminate pillage and massacre. The Archbishop and the heads of the clergy, with many of the principal inhabitants, were hanged with every mark of ignominy, and their remains thrown into the sea, where, with shoals of other dead bodies, they floated around the Ottoman ships. A populous city, fifty flourishing villages, and many splendid convents and churches, all reduced to ashes, attested the fierceness of Mahommedan revenge; and it was calculated that within two months 25,000 Chians had fallen by the edge of the sword, and 45,000 had been dragged into slavery ( Gordon , vol. i. p. 361) ; among the latter were the women and children of the best families, who had been nursed in every luxury. About 15,000 Chians, mostly in a state of total destitution, escaped to various , parts of Greece; and the wretched re mn ant of the population which re- \ mained behind was decimated by the pestilence which followed the ravages i of war. In the end of August, 1822, only 2000 Christians were left in the j whole island. While at Scio the Moslems were gorging themselves with spoil and car- , nage, the narration of its sufferings, as told by the surviving exiles, covered Greece with mourning ; but sorrow soon gave place to indignation, and the Greeks prepared signally to avenge the massacre and slavery of then’ brethren. , “ We have now to narrate,” writes General Gordon, “ one of the most ex¬ traordinary military exploits recorded j in history, and to introduce to the reader’s notice, in the person of a yoimg Psariot sailor, the most brilliant pattern of heroism that Greece in any age has had to boast of; a heroism, too, spring¬ ing from the purest motives, unalloyed by ambition or avarice.” Constantine Canaris, with thirty-three brave com¬ rades, volunteered their services; and 337 JEgean Islands. 9. icaria (nicaria).— 10. samos (samo). taking advantage of a dai’k night, they ran into the midst of the Infidel fleet anchored in the channel of Scio, and grappled their fire-ship to the huge vessel of the Capitan Pasha, which in¬ stantly caught the flames, and in a few hours blew up with a crew of 2000 men. The Greeks meanwhile stepped into a large launch which they had in tow, shouting “ Victory to the Cross ! ”—the ancient war-cry of the imperial armies of Byzantium; and made good their escape to Psara without a single wound. The terror excited among the Turkish sailors by this gallant exploit, contri¬ buted in no small degree to paralyse their exertions, and to insure the ulti¬ mate success of the war of independ¬ ence. In the winter of 1827-28 a Greek force under Colonel Fabvier, a French Philhellene, landed in Chios, and be¬ sieged the Turkish garrison in the fortress, but were compelled to evacuate the island without effecting any im¬ portant success. Twenty-five years of tranquillity have since, to a certain degree, effaced the remembrance of the dreadful calamities of 1822 ; and num¬ bers of Sciot families, wearied with exile and poverty, have returned and rebuilt | their city and villages, and resinned their former habits of industry. Ruins ! still encumber the streets of the town, and many of the once splendid villas in its neighbourhood are still deserted and roofless ; but the island is fast J recovering from the state of desolation to which it was reduced; and the vine¬ yards, with the olive, citron, and mastic groves, which were all cut down or burnt, are rapidly springing up afresh. 9. Icaria (Vicaria). This island and the surrounding sea, known of old as the Icarian, derived their name from the legend of Icarus, son of Dadalus, who, having incurred the displeasure of Minos, made ■wings of feathers and wax for himself and his son, so as to escape from Crete. But Icarus mounting too high, the sun 1 melted the wax of his wings, and he :ell into the sea near this island. Icaria Greece. was first colonized by the Milesians, but afterwards belonged to the Samians. Its name rarely occurs in either ancient or modern history; nor does it contain any object of sufficient interest to detain the ordinary traveller. High chains of mountains occupy its entire extent, and its inhabitants are considered the rudest and most unpolished of all the modem Greeks. They maintain themselves chiefly by the sale of charcoal to the neighbouring islands and to the towns on the coast of Asia Minor, and by the exportation of firewood, with which their hills are covered. At the present day the population amounts to about 8000. They pay an annual tribute to the Pasha of Rhodes, like the neigh¬ bouring islanders. There is no good harbour in Icaria. The least exposed roadstead is at En- delos, on the N.W. coast,—probably the ancient Histi (irrml). The chief village is Messaria, near the centre of the island, and containing 200 houses. There are some slight remains of anti¬ quity near Messaria, and also in other quarters,—traces, doubtless, of the an¬ cient towns of CEnce and Erakanon, and of the temple of Artemis called Tauro- polium , all mentioned by Strabo, xiv. The group of barren and rugged islets situated between Icaria and Samos, was called by the ancients the Corassice or Corsece Insula. They are now known by the general name oiPhurni (iougval), from the resemblance to ovens of the numerous small caverns in their cliffs. They are inhabited by a few shepherds and fishermen from Samos and Patmos. 10. Samos (Samo). Samos, one of the principal islands of the JEgean sea, is separated from the coast of Ionia by a narrow strait formed by the overlapping of its E. promon¬ tory Poseidium (Cape Colonna) with the W. spur of Mount Mycale, Pr. Trogilium (Cape Santa Maria). T his strait, which is less than a mile in width, was the scene of the battle of Mycale in b.c. 479. It is now known to mariners under the name of the Little Boghaz. The Great Boghaz , Q 338 Sect. III. 10. SAMOS (SAMO). which separates Samos from Icaria, varies in width from 8 miles to 3 miles, and is a much frequented passage from the Dardanelles to Syria and Egypt. The island is formed by a range of mountains extending from E. to W., whence it derived its name ; for Sap; was an old Greek word signifying a mountain; and the same root is seen in Samos or Same (i. e. Cephallenia), and in Samothrace (i. e. the Thracian Samos).' The circumference of the island is about 80 miles; it is nearly 30 miles in length, and 8 miles in mean breadth. It was and is very fertile; and some of its products are indicated by its ancient names, Dryusa, Anthe- mura, Melamphyllus, and Cyparissia. According to the earliest traditions, Samos was a chief seat of the Carians and Leleges, and was afterwards colo¬ nised by .ZEolians from Lesbos. In the earliest historical records, however, we find Samos decidedly Ionian, and a powerful member of the Ionic con¬ federacy. Thucydides tells us that the Samians were the first of the Greeks, after the Corinthians, who paid great attention to naval affairs. They soon acquired such power at sea that they founded colonies in Thrace, Cilicia, Crete, Italy, and Sicily. After the usual transition from an heroic mo¬ narchy, through an aristocracy, to a democracy, the island became subject to the most distinguished of the so-called tyrants, Polycrates (b.c. 532), under whom its power and splendour reached their highest pitch, and Samos would probably have become the mistress of the iEgean, but for the treacherous murder of Poly crates by a Persian Satrap. (For the details of the romantic life of Polycrates see Herodotus, who relates them in his most dramatic manner.) At this period the Samians had extensive commercial relations with Egypt, and they obtained from Amasis the privilege of a separate temple at Naucratis. The Samians now became subject to the Persian empire, under which they were governed by tyrants, with a brief interval at the time of the Ionian revolt, until the battle of My- cale, which restored them to freedom. They now joined the Athenian con¬ federacy, of which they continued inde¬ pendent members until B.C. 440, when an opportunity arose for reducing them to entire subjection and depriving them of their fleet, which was effected by Pericles after an obstinate resistance of 9 months’ duration. In the Pelopon¬ nesian war, Samos held firm to Athens till the last. Transferred to Sparta in B.c. 405 after the battle of JEgospotami, it was soon restored to Athens by that of Cnidus in 394. Soon after it fell into the hands of the Persians, but it was recovered by Timotheus for Athens. In the Social war the Athenians success¬ fully defended it against all attacks, and placed in it a body of 2000 cleruchi, b.c. 352. After the death of Alexander, Samos seems to have owed a nominal allegiance to the Graeco-Syrian king¬ dom. After many vicissitudes of for¬ tune, it was united by the Romans to their province of Asia in b.c. 84. Mean¬ time it had greatly declined, and had been wasted by war and the incursions of pirates. Its prosperity was partially restored by the residence in it of An¬ tony and Cleopatra, b.c. 32, and after¬ wards of Octavianus, who made it a free state. It was deprived of its freedom by Yespasian and sank into insignifi¬ cance as early as the 2nd century, al¬ though its departed glory is found still recorded, under the Emperor Decius, by the inscription on its coins Av ‘srg&JT&iV I OOVl(X,$. Samos may be regarded as having of old constituted the centre of Ionian manners, luxury, art, and science. In very early times it had a native school of statuary, at the head of which was Rhoecus, to whom tradition ascribed the invention of casting in metal. In the hands of the same school architec¬ ture flourished greatly ; the Heraeum, one of the most magnificent of Greek temples, was erected on the W. side of the city of Samos; and the city itself, especially under the government of Polycrates, was adorned with many other splendid works. In painting, the island produced Timanthes, and was JEgean Islands. 11. PATMOS (PATINO). 339 illustrious as the birthplace of Pytha¬ goras, and of several famous artists, philosophers, poets, and historians. The ancient capital, also called Samos, stood on the S.E. side of the island, partly on the shore, and partly rising on the hills behind in the form of an amphitheatre. In the time of Herodo- j tus, it was reckoned one of the finest j cities of the world. Its ruins are still; so considerable as to allow its plan to be traced ; there are remains of its walls and towers, and of the theatre and aqueduct. The Herteum, celebrated as the chief centre of the worship of Hera among the Ionian Greeks, stood about 2 miles W, of the city. It was burnt by the Persians, but soon rebuilt, pro¬ bably in the time of Polyerates. This second temple was of the Ionic order, and is spoken of by Herodotus as the largest which he knew. It was gra¬ dually filled with works of sculpture and painting, of which it was plun¬ dered by the Romans. Nothing is left of it but traces of the foundations and a single capital and base. The modem history of Samos pre¬ sents few remarkable events. It fell under the power of the Ottomans in the 16th century. The Samians were among the first to join the Greek insur¬ rection, when they massacred or drove the Turks out of the island, which they put into a state of defence. A Senate and government were formed, and an army disciplined in the European [ fashion, which defeated all the efforts j of the Turks to regain the island. The ( Christians of Asia found safety here, while the Samians made several suc¬ cessful expeditions to the continent, defeating and destroying the enemy wherever they met them, and returning home laden with booty and stores. The Samians thus preserved their liberty during the whole period of the war, and were grievously disappointed on finding themselves excluded by the allied Sovereigns from the new kingdom of Greece. The island is now governed on a system analogous to that pursued in the Danubian Principalities; the Sultan appointing a Governor (gene¬ rally a Phanariot Greek), with the title of Prince of Samos (’Hyifcav ~2.afj.ou ). The island pays a tribute to the Porte, but is otherwise virtually independent; it is beginning to resume a portion of its former prosperity. In antiquity it was celebrated for its extra¬ ordinary fertility; it was then also cul¬ tivated with the utmost care, and traces still exist of the walls which were built to form the sides of the mountains into terraces and to facihtate their culture. Sgmos still continues one of the most productive islands of the JEgean. It annually exports considerable quanti¬ ties of corn, grapes, oil, valonia, &c.; and its muscadel wine is much es¬ teemed. Its mountains furnish quar¬ ries of marble and forests of timber; and its well-watered valleys, even with their present deficient culture, supply abundance of grain and fruits. The present capital of the island, called Khora (XJ»«, the Town), is on its S. side, about 2 miles from the sea, on the lower extremities of a mountain, on which the ancient acropolis (called Astypalcea) was placed. Though not without some good houses, it is a mise¬ rable town, having stony, steep, un¬ paved, and scarcely passable streets. Bathy (FWj), on the N. side of the island, possessing a safe and deep port, from which it derives its name, is larger than Khora; but it also is a wretched place, with streets scarce a dozen feet in width, execrably paved and steep. The population of the whole island was estimated by Toumefort at 12,000. It had greatly increased at the beginning of the present century, when it was estimated at 60,000; but since the close of the Revolution there has been a good deal of emigration. Statistics of this sort are more or less guess-work throughout the East. 11. Patmos (Patinq). Patmos, called San Giovanni di Patino by the Italian mariners of the Levant, is 20 miles S. of the W. ex¬ tremity of Samos. It is a solid irre¬ gular mass of rock, bleak and barren. Its shores are indented with several Q2 340 12. eeros (lero).- 13, good harbours, and its principal port, or seal a, on the E. side, is one of the safest in all the Greek islands. Patinos is about 10 miles in length, 5 miles in breadth, and 28 miles in circumference. Its name is scarcely mentioned in history ; but some traces remain of an ancient town. The island was used by the Romans as a place of banishment, and here, according to universal tradi¬ tion, St. John wrote the Apocalypse, during the exile to which he was con¬ demned, a, ii. 94, by the Emperor Do- mitian, for preaching the Gospel. At the landing-place is a small village, comprising about 50 houses and shops. On the ridge of a mountain, overlooking the port, stands the town, which is reached by a steep and rugged ascent of half an horn*. A still higher ridge is crowned by the celebrated monastery of St. John the Divine , presenting the ap¬ pearance of a fortress of the middle ages. It was built by the Byzantine emperors in the twelfth century, and endowed with lands in several of the neighbouring islands. There are about 50 Caloyers at the present day. They are subject immediately to the jurisdic¬ tion of the patriarch of Constantinople, and are exempt from episcopal visita¬ tion. The church and library should be visited; the latter contains about 300 MSS. and about 1000 printed volumes. They were examined by Boss in 1841, who discovered nothing of im¬ portance, Dr. Clarke and other pre¬ ceding travellers having bought or ab- ' stracted all that was valuable. The famous grotto or cavern, where St. John is said to have written the Apocalypse, is situated on the face of the lull, about half-way between the town and the port. It is covered by a chapel, where numerous lamps are kept constantly burning, and on whose walls are rudely depicted various subjects relating to the Apocalypse. The Monks point out the localities assigned by tradition as the scene where the Revelations were de¬ livered, and some fissures in the roof are shown as those through which the apostle heard the “ voice from heaven like the sound of a trumpet.’ 1 . CALYMNA (c ALIM NO). Sect. III. The population of Patrnos, amounting to 4000, is exclusively Greek. The inhabitants gain a precarious subsist¬ ence by their periodical emigrations to the continent, or to more fertile islands, where there is a demand for agricultural labour, or by transporting merchandise in their boats between the neighbouring towns. They pay an annual tribute to the Pasha of Rhodes. 12. Eeros (Lero). This small island, lying off the coast of Caria, is 6 miles long and 4 miles broad. It is irregularly formed of rocks and mountains. Its inhabitants, who came originally from Miletus, bore a bad character; and it is one of the many instances'* of the permanence of local usages and feelings in Greece that the people of Leros are looked upon with an evil eye by their neighbours at the present day. Besides a city of the same name the island contained a temple of Artemis, where the fabled transformation of the sisters of Meleager into guinea-fowls was said to have taken place, in memory of which guinea-fowls were kept in the court of that temple. Some remains of it are found in the walls and foundations of a church erected near the harbour Partheni (to n ccglliviov), a name handed down by tra¬ dition from the shrine of the Virgin- goddess. This port is on the N. side of the island, and is sheltered by some barren rocks off its entrance. The modern town stands on a sloping hill on the E. side, and is crowned by a rubied castle of the middle ages. The inhabitants of Leros number about 3000, and pay tribute to tbe Pasha of Rhodes. They are engaged in agri¬ culture, the carrying trade, and the sponge fishery. 13. Calymna (Calivino). Calymna lies off the coast of Caria, between Leros and Cos. It appears to have been the principal island of the group which Homer calls CalydncB (II. ii. 677), comprising Leros, Telendos, and a few barren rocks in the neigh¬ bouring sea. Calymna was originally JEgean Islands. 14. astypalea (stampalia).— 15. cos (stanco). 341 inhabited by Carians, and was after¬ wards colonised by Thessalian JEolians, or Dorians, under Heracleid leaders. At the time of the Trojan war it was subject to Artemisia of Halicarnassus, together with the neighbouring islands of' Cos and Nisyros (Herod, vii. 99). It now is subject to Rhodes, and pays a small tribute, but otherwise enjoys self- government in its local affairs. The inhabitants amount to 7000, and all live at the harbour, or in the town, which stands on an elevated platform a little less than an hour’s walk from it. They are employed in the carrying trade and sponge fishery, as well as in agriculture. The island is bare and mountainous, so that the description of Ovid (de Art. Am . ii. 81), “-silvis umbrosa Calymne,” is no longer applicable. It produces, however, figs, wine, barley, oil, and excellent honey; for the lat ter it was also celebrated in antiquity (“Fecundaque melle Calymne.” Ov. Met. viii. 222). With regard to the ancient towns, Pliny mentions the existence of three or four. The principal remains are now found in the valley above the harbour Linari , on the W. side of the island. The chief ruins are those of a great church tou Xpitmv rr,; lioouiraX'/ift, built on the site of an ancient temple of Apollo. S. of the modern town there is a plain still called Argos, as in the island of Casos. on the western side of the southern bay. To the S. and E. of this bay lie several desert islets, to which Ovid alludes in the line, “ cinctaque piscosis Astypalaea vadis” (Ar. Am. ii. 82). The modern town contains about 1500 inhabitants, who are tributary to the Pasha of Rhodes. Here is a mediaeval castle, which has still a stately appearance, and which commands a splendid pro¬ spect, extending in clear weather to Crete. This little town contains an extraordinary number of churches and chapels, sometimes as many as six in a row. They are built to a great extent from the ruins of the ancient temples, and in every part of the town there are seen capitals of columns and other re¬ mains. The favourite hero of the island was an athlete, named Cleomedes, who was said to have met with many ro¬ mantic adventures. Hegesander related that a couple of hares having been brought into Asty¬ palaea from Anaphe, the island became so overrun with them that the inhabit¬ ants were obliged to consult the Delphic i oracle, which gave them the profound | advice to hunt them down with dogs I (Athen. ix.). This tale is a counterpart ; to the one about the brace of partridges | introduced from Astypalaea into Anaphe (see Anaphe). Pliny (viii. 59) says that the muscles of Astypalaea were very celebrated, and they are still taken olf the coast. 14. Asttpaljea (Stampalia). 15. Cos (Stanco). Of the history of Astypalaea we have Cos is one of the most renowned of hardly any account. It was originally \ that beautiful chain of islands wliich inhabited by Carians, and afterwards \ covers the western shore of Asia Minor, colonised from Megara. In B.c. 105, j Among its earlier names were Meropis as we leam from an inscription, the ; and Kymphaea. It appears from an Romans concluded an alliance with the inscription mentioned by Ross that it islanders, a distinction probably granted was called Lango in the time of the on account of their excellent harbours > Knights of Rhodes. It is situated and their central position in the JEgean. j nearly opposite the gulf of Halicarnassus, Astypalaea consists of two large rocky | and is separated by a narrow strait masses, united in the centre by an from Cnidus and the Triopian Promon¬ isthmus, which, in the narrowest part, j tory. The Turkish name of Halicar- is only 500 feet across. On the N. and nassus is JBudrum, and some fragments S. the sea enters two deep bays between : of marbles discovered there were pro- the two halves of the island; and the cured by Lord Stratford de Redchfie town, which bore the same name, stood | for the British Museum. Cos is about 342 Sect. III. 16. NISYROS (NISYRO). 23 miles in length from N.E. to S.W.; | and about 65 in circuit. The principal city, bearing the name of the island, and which has continued to our own times, was near the N.E. extremity of the island. The relation of Cos to the neighbouring coast and islands is vividly illustrated by such voyages as those which are described in Livy, xxxvii. 16 ; Lucan, viii. 244-250: and, above all, in the Acts of the Apostles, xx. xxi. Tradition connects the earliest Greek inhabitants of Cos w r ith a migration from Epidaurus; and the common worship of AEsculapius seems to have maintained a link between the two down to a late period. In Homer we find the people of the island fighting against the Carians (II., ii. 677, 867). As we approach the period of distinct history, the city of Cos appears as a member of the Dorian Pentapolis, whose sanctuary was on the Triopian Pro¬ montory (Herod., i. 144). Under the Athenian rule it had no walls, and it was first fortified by Alcibiades at the close of the Peloponnesian war (Thucy d., viii., 108). In subsequent times it shared the general fate of the neigh¬ bouring coasts and islands. The Em¬ peror Claudius bestowed upon it the privileges of a free state, and Antoninus Pius rebuilt the city after it had been destroyed by an earthquake (Pans., viii. 43). The ancient constitution of the island seems to have been monarchical, and traces of its continuance are observed in an inscription as late as the time of Vespasian. It was illustrious as the birthplace of the painter Apelles, and the physician Hippocrates. An inte¬ resting inscription associates it with Herod the Tetrarcli, whose father had conferred many favours on Cos, as we learn from Josephus. Besides Cos there were other ancient towns in the island, of which the chief were Halisarna and Astypalcea; there are remains of both on the S.E. coast. The present mixed population of Greeks and Turks amounts to about 8000 ; the latter being congregated in the town, while the former are dispersed in villages through the country. The modem capital stands picturesquely on the site of the ancient city. An un¬ healthy lagoon to the N. marks the position of the ancient harbour. Close to it is the Turkish castle, chiefly erected by the Knights of Rhodes; in its walls are some elaborate sculptures, which may perhaps have belonged to the temple of vEsculapius. This sanctuary was anciently the object of greatest interest in the island. A school of physicians was attached to it; and its great collection of votive models made it almost a museum of anatomy and pathology. Cos is generally mountainous, espe¬ cially on the S. and W. ; but there is a large tract of level and fruitful ground towards the N. and E. The island still gives proof of the natural produc¬ tiveness so celebrated of old, and sup¬ plies corn, silk, and wines. Fruit-trees everywhere abound ; and the vicinity of the town is embellished by luxuriant groves of orange, lemon, pomegranate, fig, and other trees of the Levant. The island was known in the old world for its ointment and purple dye, but espe¬ cially for its wines ; and the light trans¬ parent dresses called “ Cose vestes.” For full information concerning Cos and its relation to the opposite coast, the Admiralty Charts should be con¬ sulted. No traveller should visit the HCgean Sea without them. 16. Nisyeos (Nisteo). This small island, situated off the promontory of Caria called Triopimn, is of a round form, 80 stadia in circuit, and composed of roeky lulls, the highest being 2271 feet high. Its volcanic nature gave rise to the fable respecting its origin, that Poseidon tore it off the neighbouring island of Cos to hurl it upon the giant Poly botes. It was cele- j brated of old for its warm springs, j wine, and mill-stones. Its capital, of the same name, stood on the N.W. extremity of the island, where consider¬ able ruins of its Acropolis remain. Its first inhabitants are said to have been Carians ; but already in the heroic age it had received a Dorian population, 343 JEgean Islands. 17. telos.— 18. like otter islands near it, witli which it is mentioned by Homer as sending troops to the Greeks. It received other Dorian settlements in the historical age. At the time of the Persian war, it belonged to the Carian Queen Artemi¬ sia ; it next became a tributary ally of Athens: though transferred to the Spartan alliance by the issue of the Peloponnesian war, it was recovered for Athens by the victory at Cnidos, B.C. 394. After the defeat of Autiochus the Great by the Romans, it was assigned to Rhodes; and, with the rest of the Rhodian Republic, was united to the Roman Empire about B.C. 70. _ At the present day Aisyros [contains a population of 2500, living in three villages, of which the chief, MandrdJci , is near the ruins of the ancient town. There is no good harbour ; whence the inhabitants are not so much a sea-faring people as their neighbours. They ex¬ port wine, almonds, and valonia, and are tributary to Rhodes. 17. Telos (Episcopi). This little island lies off the coast of Caria, between Rhodes and Aisyros. We learn from Pliny (A. If., iv. 23) that it was also called Agathussa of old. At no period of history has it been of any importance. The chief village con¬ tains about 120 houses, and is situated at the distance of half-an-hour’s walk from the landing-place. It is called Episcopi (’EvnerwTrv), probably because a Bishop resided here at some former epoch; and the name of the village has been extended by the Franks to the whole island, still known to the Greeks themselves as Telos. On the steep hill immediately above Episcopi are some remains of the ancient town. At the present day the inhabitant s of the whole island amount to about 1000, main¬ taining themselves by agriculture, and paying a small tribute to the Pasha of Rhodes. 18. Stile (Symi). This small island was one of the early Dorian states that existed in the S.W. of Asia Minor before the time of Homer. Aireus, after Achilles the handsomest SYME.— 19. CHAXCE. among the Greeks at Troy, came from Syme. Its connexion both with Cnidus and with Rhodes, between which it lies, is indicated by the tradition that it u as peopled by a colony from Cnidus led by Cthonius, the son of Poseidon and of Syme, the daughter of Ialysus. Some time after the Trojan war, the Carians are said to have obtained possession of the island, hut to have deserted it again in consequence of a severe drought. Its final settlement by the Dorians is ascribed to the time of their great mi¬ gration. The island was reckoned at 35 miles in circuit, and had eight har¬ bours and a town, also called Syme; and of which there are some trifling remains still extant. The modem town is situated on the principal port, which forms a narrow but deep and safe harbour, called the Strand ('Atyncxls). The inhabitants amount to 7000, and five together in the town and at the port. Like the people of Calymnos and Chalce, they are chiefly occupied with the sponge- fishery, which employs 150 boats, and a dozen good-sized vessels. This island also is tributary to Rhodes. 19. Chaxce (Chalki). We learn from Strabo and Pliny that Chalce had in ancient times a small town of the same name, a temple of Apollo, and a harbour. It lies off the W. coast of Rhodes, and seems to have been usually subject to its powerful neighbour. We read in Thucydides (via. 41, 44,45) that the Athenian fleet was stationed at Chalce in the latter part of the Peloponnesian war (b.C. 412), to watch the movements of the enemy in Rhodes. Clialce contains at present about 1500 inhabitants, chiefly engaged in diving for sponges. The harbour is good though small; it preserves its ancient name of Emporium (E p.voouai). The chief village is an hour’s walk from the port, and near it are some Hellenic sepulchres and other remains. The in¬ habitants grow a little com, and pay an annual tribute to the Pasha of Rhodes. Chalce is rugged and mountainous. 344 Sect. HI- 20. RHODOS OR RHODES (RODl). 20. Rhodos or Rhodes (Rodi). From the most remote period of an¬ tiquity this celebrated island lias occu¬ pied a conspicuous place in the page of history. The ancient Rhodians were eminent for their early civilization, their valour, their knowledge of maritime affairs, and their cultivation of art and literature. In modern times Rhodes is famous as the stronghold during two centuries of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, and as the scene of one of the most heroic defences on record. Besides these associations, the beautiful climate and scenery of Rhodes will alone well repay a visit, and the island is now easily accessible, as the Steamers between Syria and Smyrna generally touch there. It is the residence of an English Consul. The most eastern island of the iEgean Sea, Rhodes lies off the S. coast of Caria, at the distance of about 12 miles. Its length from N.E. to S.W. is nearly 45 miles; its greatest breadth from 20 to 25 miles. In early times it was called JEthrsea, Ophiussa, and by other names, which are to be considered, how¬ ever, rather as epithets than as distinct appellations. The most primitive Greek records make mention of it. Mytho¬ logical stories ascribed its origin to the power of Apollo, who raised it from beneath the waves ; and ancient tradi¬ tion indicated the early peopling of the island by some of the civilized races of Western Asia, probably the Phoenicians. The Hellenic colonization was ascribed to Tlepolemus, the son of Hercules, before the Trojan war, and, after that war, to Althsemenes. Homer mentions the three Dorian settlements in Rhodes, namely, Lindus, Ialysus, and Camirus ; and these cities, with Cos, Cnidus, and Halicarnassus, formed the Dorian Hex- apolis, which was established from a period of unknown antiquity, in the S.W. corner of Asia Minor. Rhodes soon became a great maritime state, or rather confederacy, the island being parcelled out between the three cities above mentioned. The Rhodians made distant voyages, and founded numerous colonies, of which the chief were Rhoda, in Iberia; Gela, in Sicily; Parthenope and Sybaris, in Italy; besides various 1 settlements on the coasts of Asia. During this early period the govern¬ ment of each of the three cities seems to have been monarchical; but about b.c. 660 the whole island appears to have been united in an oligarchical republic, ( the chief magistrates of which, called Prytanes, were taken from the family of the Eratidse, who had been the royal house of Ialysus. At the beginning of the Peloponnesian war Rhodes was one of those Dorian maritime states wliich I were subject to Athens; but in the ' twentieth year of the war, b.c. 412, it joined the Spartan alliance, and the oligarchical party, wliich had been de¬ pressed, recovered their former power under the leadership of Dorieus, so celebrated for his victories in all the great Grecian games. In b.c. 408 the new capital, the famous city of Rhodes, was founded, and peopled from the three ancient cities of Lindus, Ialysus, and Camirus. It was built by Hippo- damus of Miletus, who had been em¬ ployed by the Athenians to embellish the Piraeus. Rhodes soon became dis¬ tinguished for the splendour of its public edifices, and of the noble paint¬ ings and statues with which they were enriched. It was in fact one of the most magnificent cities of the ancient world ; Strabo, who had seen Rome, Alexandria, &c., gives the preference to Rhodes (lib. xiv.) ; and Pindar had long before extolled the island in one of his noblest odes (Olymp. vii.). The wealth of the Rhodians was derived partly from their fertile soil and advantageous situ¬ ation, but stiR more from their extensive commerce and the wisdom of their laws, especially those having reference to ma¬ ritime affairs. Such indeed was the estimation in which the latter were held that many of them regulations were embodied in the Roman Civil Law, and have thence been adopted into all modern codes. After the Peloponnesian war the his¬ tory of the island presents a series of conflicts between the democratical and 345 JEgeaa Islands. 20. rhodos or riiodes (rodi). oligarchical parties, and of subjection to Cassius, B.C. 42, but were afterwards Athens and Sparta in turn, till the end compensated for their losses by the of the Social War, B.C. 355, when its favour of Antony. They were at length independence was acknowledged. Its deprived of their independence by internal dissensions were at length com- Claudius ; and their prosperity received posed by a mixed form of government, its final blow from an earthquake which uniting the elements of aristocracy and laid the city of Ehodes in ruins, A.i). 155. democracy. The Rhodians submitted On the division of the empire, this to Alexander; but at his death they island was allotted to the Emperors of expelled the Macedonian garrison. In the East. It was seized for a short the ensuing wars they formed an alii- period by the Saracens, but having been anc-e with Ptolemy, the son of Lagus, recovered by the Greeks, it was pre- ancl Rhodes successfully endured a fa- sented in a.d. 1308 by the Emperor mous siege by the forces of Demetrius Emanuel to the Knights of St. John of Poliorcetes, who at length, in adinira- Jerusalem, who had recently been ex- tion of the valour of the besieged, pre- pelled from Palestine. The Knights, sented them with the engines which he as the declared enemies of the Infidels, had used against their city, from the were engaged in perpetual warfare with sale of which they defrayed the cost of the Turks, and sustained several block- the statue of the Sun, long celebrated, ades and sieges. They retained posses- under the name of the “ Colossus of sion of Rhodes, however, till a.d 1522, Rhodes,” as one of the seven wonders when after a glorious resistance they of the world. It was the work of were compelled to surrender to Solyman Chares of Lindus, a statuary in bronze, the Magnificent. The Knights then and a favourite pupil of Lysippus. The retired first to Crete, and then to Sicily, height of the statue was upwards of where they continued till 1530, when 105 English feet, it was twelve years in ! the Emperor Charles Y. ceded to them erecting, and cost 300 talents. It the island of Malta, stood at the entrance of the harbour of j Few historic feats surpass in interest Rhodes, but there is no authority for : the siege of Rhodes by Solyman the the statement that its legs extended J Magnificent. It lasted four months, across the entrance of the port. It was during which prodigies of valour were overthrown and broken to pieces by an j displayed by both Turks and Christians, earthquake fifty-six years after its erec- | The Knights being at last moved at the tion, B.C. 224. The fragments remained j fate which must have inevitably at- on the spot 923 years, till they were j tended the Greek population, if the sold by the general of the Caliph Oth- town, which was no longer tenable, man IY., to a Jew of Emesa, who should be carried by storm, acceded to carried them away on 900 camels, j the terms held out by Solyman. The a.d. 672. It may be worth while to . principal stipulations were, — that the notice the fact, mentioned by Hume, in ! churches should not be profaned—that his Populousness of Ancient Nations, ' no children should be taken from their that the siege of Rhodes by Demetrius j parents—that the citizens should be Poliorcetes affords the only example to j allowed the free exercise of their reli- befound in antiquity of the establishment j gion—that every individual, whether of a cartel for the exchange of prisoners, i knight or citizen, should be at liberty In the wars with Antiochus and j to quit the island—that those Christians Mithridates, the Rhodians gave the , who remained should pay no tribute Romans the powerful aid of their fleet, | for five years—that the Knights should and they were rewarded by the supre- j depart in their own galleys, and be macy of Southern Caria, where they ! supplied with additional transports from the Turkish fleet, if they required them —that they should be allowed twelve days from the ratification of the treaty Q 3 nau seuiemenis rrom an early period. In the Civil Wars they took part with Ceesar, and suffered in consequence from 346 Sect. nr. 20. RIIODOS OR RHODES (RODl). to embark their property—that that property should include relics, conse¬ crated vessels, records, and writings, and all the artillery employed on hoard then' galleys. Villiers de l’lsle Adam, the Grand Master, embarked the last of his sor¬ rowing band. On the morning of the 1st of January, 1523, the fleet, consist¬ ing of about fifty sail of all descriptions, put to sea. It was an hour of woe ; but the wanderers departed not unso¬ laced. They looked then’ last on the shattered towers from which the fate of war had driven them, supported by the consciousness that, though Rhodes had passed from under their sway, then’ protracted resistance had conferred the fame of victory even on defeat. The Turks, in token of respect for the van¬ quished, long refrained from defacing their armorial insignia and inscriptions on the public buildings of the city. The island of Rhodes is of a trian¬ gular form, rising gradually from the sea till it attains a considerable eleva¬ tion towards the centre, where it ter¬ minates in the lofty summit (4600 feet above the sea) of Mount Artemira (the ancient Atabyros, on which was a tem¬ ple of Jupiter), commanding a noble view of the island and of the neigh¬ bouring shores of Asia Minor. In anti¬ quity this mountain chain was covered with dense forests of pine, whence the Rhodians drew supplies of timber for their fleets ; and in modern times it has supplied considerable quantities for the dockyards of Constantinople. Speaking generally, the soil in the lower parts is dry and sandy ; but there are some fine valleys, well watered by the numerous streams that descend from the moun¬ tains. In antiquity the fertility of Rhodes was celebrated by Pindar (Olymp. vii.) ; but owing to the inse¬ curity and extortion of which the inha¬ bitants have been long the victims, its agriculture is now in a very depressed state, many of its finest fields being allowed to lie waste, and the island not producing corn sufficient even for its scanty population. The wine too has sadly'degenerated from that mentioned by Virgil (Georg., ii. 102) as fit for the feasts of the gods. Rhodes produces oil, oranges, citrons, and other fruits, and, if properly cultivated, might pro¬ duce in profusion most necessaries and luxuries. Marble is quarried in several parts of the island. The chmate of Rhodes (claram Hho- do?i, Hor.) is probably the finest in tlie Mediterranean. Hardly a day passes throughout the year in which the sun is not visible, but the powerful radiance of the East is neutralised by fresh gales from the sea ; -while the beat at ni_ lit is tempered by the breezes from the Caramanian mountains. The only beasts of burden used in the island are mules and donkeys, there being no camels, and but few horses, and those belonging chiefly to the richer Turks. Partridges are very abundant. Various species of excellent fish, with coral and sponges, are found in the surrounding sea. The city of Rhodes is situated at the N.E. extremity of the island, and has an imposing appearance when viewed from the sea. It is built in the form of an amphitheatre, on ground rising gently from the water’s edge, and is strongly fortified, having a moated castle of great size and strength, and being surrounded by walls flanked with towers. These works were constructed by the Kuigbts of St. Jolin; and they bear evidence of the same skill as was afterwards exhibited in the fortifica¬ tions of Malta. Above the ramparts appear the domes and minarets of the mosques, together with some tufted palm-trees ; while a highly ornamented Gothic gateway leads from the quay to the town. On entering Rhodes, as is also the case in so many other Eastern towns, the ulterior disappoints the ex¬ pectations raised by the exterior- narrow winding lanes and mean houses of wood have generally replaced the substantial stone buildings of the knights. Contrary to what might have been expected, the best streets in the city are in the quarter inhabited by the Jews. The Greeks occupy a distinct suburb called Neomaras, outside the 347 JE'jean Islands. 21. caupathos city properly so called. On the land side the town is surrounded by a Turkish cemetery, beyond which are some detached and finely situated country-houses, surrounded by gardens. The palace of the Grand Master is now the residence of the Pasha, who governs this and a number of the adjacent islands. The church of St. John has been converted into a mosque, and the grand hospital of the knights is now a public granaiy. The church should be visited ; its portals of carved wood are worth notice, and it contains some tombstones of grand masters and knights. There are some, though few, remains of antiquity in the city; the barbarism of its Saracenic and Turkish conquerors, and the recurrence of de¬ structive earthquakes, having destroyed most memorials of its former splendour. That called the Street of the Knights bears a strong resemblance to parts of Taletta in Malta, for which it pro¬ bably was the model. Many of the stone houses in this quarter have the armorial bearings of the knights sculp¬ tured on their walls, where may be dis¬ tinguished the arms of England, France, the Popes, and the heraldic devices of some of the most illustrious families in Europe. The windows have generally been disfigured by the wooden lattices placed before them by the Turks to conceal the ladies of their harems. The pavement, which was once even and carefully repaired, is now in a melan¬ choly state of dilapidation ; in short, all is gloom and desolation ; and the modem town, though occupying only a fourth part of the site of the ancient city, which is said to have been 9 miles in', circumference, is still too extensive for its present population. It has two harbours: the smaller, a fine basin, with a narrow entrance, is sheltered on all sides, but the Turks have allowed it to be so much choked up by sand, that it can now be used only for petty craft: the other harbour is much larger, and has deep water, but is exposed to the jS’.E. winds; on this account ships pre¬ fer anchoring in the roads, in 20 fathom water, whence they can easily put out (scar panto). to sea hi the event of the wind setting in strong from the X.E. A lighthouse is erected on a mole between the two. harbours, which are protected by forts and batteries. The trade of Rhodes is now inconsiderable; and its quays are no longer loaded with merchandise from all parts of the world. As has been already intimated, there are scarcely any Hellenic remains in the city of Rhodes. The ancient coins of the island bear a rose (joiotl) on their reverse. A traveller, with a week at his disposal, will do well to employ that period in an excursion round the inte¬ rior of the island. lie should procure letters from the English consul to some of the cliief inhabitants of the villages, and must make preparations for his journey similar to those necessary in the interior of Greece. In an hour and a half from the capital, the traveller reaches the pretty village of Trianta, near which some foundations mark the site of Ialysrn. A long day’s journey farther down the W. coast of the island, there are some slight traces of Camirus. On the E. shore, the modem village of Hindus still retains the name of the ancient city. There are considerable Hellenic remains in this neighbourhood, and elsewhere in Rhodes; and -the scenery is always charming. Mountain ridges divide the island by natural barriers into the three divisions, of which the three ancient cities were the capitals. There are now above 40 villages, many of whose names are evidently Hellenic. They are thinly inhabited, the largest containing under 800 inhabitants. The population of the whole island amounts at the present day to about 35,000, of whom 10,000 are Turks, 3000 Jews, and the remainder Greeks. Of this whole ; number 20,000 dwell in the capital and its suburbs. In ancient times the po¬ pulation of each of the three cities pro- bably far exceeded the present aggre¬ gate of the whole island. 21. Carpathos (Scabpanto). Carpathos is an island in the sea be- ^ tween Crete and Rhodes, and which 348 Sect. III. 22. CASOS vCASO). was formerly called after it tlie Carpa¬ thian Sea. The coast is generally steep and inaccessible; and the island con¬ sists, for the most part, of lofty and hare mountains, full of ravines and hollows. The highest summit, in the centre of the island, is called Lastos, and is about 4000 feet in height. Carpathos is written VL^&iruOo; by Homer, who mentions it along with Nisyros, Casos, and Cos (77., ii. 676). It was always a Doric country, depen¬ dent on Rhodes, for no autonomous coins of Carpathos have been disco¬ vered, while Rhodian coins are com¬ monly found in the island. It appears to have been well-peopled in antiquity, and, according to Strabo, contained four towns. The site of Arcesine has been identified by Ross with Arkassa , situated on a promontory on the W, coast; while Posidium was situated upon a corresponding cape upon the E. side of the island, and is now called Posin (Burn i for HomiSiov). There are ruins of an ancient town upon a rock, Sokastron, off the western coast, and of another town upon the islet Sana, which is 10 miles in ch’cumference, and is separated by a narrow strait from the northern extremity of Carpathos. The ruins in Saria, which are now called Palatia, may possibly be those of Nisyros, a town mentioned by Strabo (compare the names 'Sag'ia and N urv^la). At the present day Carpathos num¬ bers about 5000 inhabitants, who are dispersed in several villages, and pay a small tribute to the Pasha of Rhodes. Agriculture is much neglected, the natives applying themselves rather to commerce. Many of them are em¬ ployed as carpenters and workers in wood, a trade of which they seem pecu¬ liarly fond. 22. Casos (Caso). Casos is situated between Carpathos and Crete, and is mentioned by Homer (II, ii. 676). It consists of a single ridge of mountains of considerable height. Off the N. and W. sides there are several rocks and islets. Some re¬ mains of the ancient town, which was also called Casos, are found in the in¬ terior of the island, at the village of Polin (a diminutive instead of TlZ\iot or naA/S/ov). The ancient port-town was at Pmjporeion, where there are also some ruins of sepulchral chambers, and other traces of antiquity. No autono¬ mous coins have been discovered in Casos, which was probably always de¬ pendent on either Cos or Rhodes. In the southern part of the island there is a small and fertile plain, surrounded by mountains, called Argos , a name which it has retained from the most ancient times. We find also an Argos in Calymna and Nisyros. Before the Greek revolution Casos contained a population of 12,000, of whom 3000 were able to carry arms. During the three first years of the war, the ships of this little island, whose very exist¬ ence was unknown in western Europe, blockaded the Mahommedaii towns of Crete, and inflicted considerable damage on the Turks. The Pasha of Egypt at length determined on crushing the Casians ; and on June 18,1824, a squa¬ dron of forty-five vessels, with a body of troops on hoard, surrounded the island. The Moslems effected a landing during the following night, and the island was speedily reduced, but with¬ out the indiscriminate slaughter of Chios and Psara. About 500 Casians fell in action, and 2000 women and children were dragged into slavery.* After this catastrophe, the island was nearly deserted for some years, the re¬ maining inhabitants having taken re¬ fuge in Greece; but a large portion of them has now returned. They are nominally subject to the Pasha of Rhodes, but are virtually independent, and most of their ships sail under the Greek flag. When Ross visited the island in 1843, he found a population of 5000, possessing 75 large merchant vessels, and extensively engaged in the general commerce of the Mediterranean. Since that period the islanders have continued to increase in numbers and in prosperity. * See “ Gordon’s History of the Greek Revo¬ lution,” book iv. chap. ii. ^array's Handbook of Greeo r. JhiblifhtA by John Mnn-rn . Uhwruirlr Strrrt. 349 JEgean Islands. 23. creti 23. Crete (Candia). I. History; actual condition; popula¬ tion, Sfc. II. Excursions through the island. I. Tliis island is known among its own inhabitants only by its Greek ap¬ pellation of Crete/ The Saracenic Khandax, applied to the principal city (called by the Greeks Mey*A«-Kai rrtn, i.e. Greatcastle), became with the A e- netian writers Candia, and hence that name has been vulgarly given to the whole island. We may here observe that it is doubtful whether there are any genuine autonomous coins of Crete still extant ; several of the Imperial period exist, with the epigraph KOINON KPHTP.N, and types referring to the legendary history of the island. Eckhel, vol. ii. p. 300. Crete is nearly equidistant from Europe, Asia, and Africa, but it has always been reckoned as part of Europe. Its length from E. to W. is about 160 miles : its breadth is yery unequal, being in the widest part nearly 40 miles, and in the narrowest only 6 miles. The whole island may be considered a pro¬ longation of that mountain chain which breasts the waters at Cape Malea, with the island of Cytliera interposed. The geological formation resembles that of the Hellenic peninsula; a continuous mass of high-land runs through the 'whole length, about the middle of which Mount Ida, terminating in three lofty peaks, rises to the height of 7674 feet ; to the W. it was connected with the ridge called the White Mountains (A ivxa ’Oo?j, or in Romaic" \rvoa. Bouvd), whose snow-clad summits and bold and beau¬ tiful outlines are yisible in clear weather from the southern shores of the Pelo¬ ponnesus. The riyers of Crete are nu¬ merous, but are little more than moun¬ tain torrents, and are for the most part dry in summer. The country was cele¬ brated in antiquity for its fertility and salubrity. The cycle of myths con¬ nected with Minos and his family threw a splendour oyer Crete, to which its estrangement from the rest of Hellas during the historic period presents a (candia). great contrast. Since the Grecian islands formed from the earliest times stepping- stones by which the migratory popula¬ tion of Europe and Asia liaye crossed oyer to either continent, it has been assumed that Phoenician and other colo¬ nies settled in Crete, and were the parents of the early civilisation of the island. Homer speaks of its hundred cities (H., ii. 649) ; and Minos was said to have extended his maritime empire over the ./Egcan. The Dorians appear in Crete during the heroic period, and afterwards formed the ruling class in the independent republics into which the island was subdivided, reducing to sub¬ jection the former Pelasgian inhabit¬ ants. Of these states Cnossos and Gor- tyna were the most important, and ex¬ ercised a kind of supremacy oyer the rest. There appears to have existed in Crete a class of serfs called Nvua, analo¬ gous to the Helots at Sparta. The social and political system of the island was certainly Dorian, and many of the ancients supposed that the Spartan con¬ stitution was borrowed from Crete. The chief magistrates in the cities were the Cosmi, ten in number, chosen from certain families ; there was also a Senate (rs^oi xria) ; and a Popular Assembly which, however, had very little power until a late period. But, on the whole, the analogy between the communities of Crete and Sparta is one rather of form than of spirit. The most remarkable resemblance consisted in the custom of the public messes (S^y/v/a), while there is a marked difference in the want of that rigid private training and military discipline which characterized the Spartan Government. The cha¬ racter of the old Cretan warriors comes out strongly in the famous drinking- song of Hybrias ; they had a high repu¬ tation as light troops and archers, and served as mercenaries both in Greek and Barbarian armies.* The island stood aloof collectively * For a vivid sketch of the ancient Cretan in¬ stitutions, see Thirlwall’s “History of Greece,” chap. vii. Cf. Aristotle, Polit. ii. 10. Hock (Kreta, Gottingen , 1829) is a writer of great merit and research, who has accumulated much curious information on this subject. 850 Sect. III. 23. CRETI both in the Persian and Peloponnesian wars. The several states, though at constant feud with each other, when assailed by foreign enemies laid aside their private quarrels, in defence of their common country, to which they gave the affectionate title of mother-land (ksjtj/V), a term peculiar to the Cretans. At a later period, the power of the aris¬ tocracies was overthrown and a demo- cratical form of government everywhere established. The ancient Doric cus¬ toms likewise disappeared, and the people became degenerate in their morals and character. The historian Polybius accuses them of numerous vices, and St. Paul, quoting the Cretan poet Epime- nides, describes them as “ always liars, evil beasts, slow bellies” (Titus i. 12). Their internal disorders had become so violent that they were under the neces¬ sity of summoning Philip IV. of Ma- cedon as a mediator, whose command was all-powerful (Polyb., vii. 12). Fi¬ nally in B.C. 67, Crete was conquered by the Romans under Q. Metellus, who re¬ ceived in consequence the surname of Creticus. Subsequently Crete and Cy- rene were united as a single Roman Province. Under Constantine a division took place, and in a.d. 823 the Saracens wrested the island from the Lower Empire. In a.d. 961, after a memo¬ rable struggle of ten months, Crete was recovered to the Byzantine Emperors by Nicephorus Phocas. After the taking of Constantinople by the Franks, Bald¬ win I. gave the island to Boniface, Marquis of Montferrat, who sold it in a.d. 1204 to the Venetians, and it be¬ came the first of the three subject king¬ doms whose flags waved over the piazza of St. Mark. In spite of frequent at¬ tacks from the Mahommedans and in¬ cessant revolts of the Greek inhabitants, who here as elsewhere preferred Moslem to Latin masters, Venice retained her hold on this magnificent island until a.d. 1669, when it was reduced by the Turks after a twenty-four years’ war. The insurrection in Greece of 1821 was followed by a rising in Crete, which de¬ served, and would doubtless have at¬ tained, a successful issue, had not the (candia). Allies confirmed in 1830 the gift of the island by the Sultan to Mehemet Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, in requital for bis great services during the war. Before the outbreak of the Greek Revolution, Crete was the worst governed and most oppressed province of the Turkish Em¬ pire. Since it has belonged to Egypt, notwithstanding the devastation of the war and the liarsb rule of its Pashas, some amelioration has been experienced; but the Cretans still sigh to be united to Greece, or to be taken under the protection of some Christian Power, a destiny to which their ancient fame, and their sacrifices in the cause of freedom, give them a well-founded claim. Gordon (book i. chap. 6) has given a description of Crete at the outbreak of the Greek Revolution :—“ Crete is in¬ deed the garden of Greece, and were it thoroughly civilized and cultivated, would produce in vast abundance com, wine, oil, silk, wool, honey, and wax. In the state, however, to which this superb island was reduced, grain, silk, and cotton were imported from other provinces, and its exports consisted only in a large quantity of oil (the staple commodity), wine of fail’ quality, excel¬ lent soap, and cheese of Sphakia, much esteemed in the Levant. The land is stocked with game, the sea with fine fish ; fruit is plentiful and of a delicious flavour ; its valleys are adorned with a variety of flowers and aromatic slirubs, and with groves of myrtle, orange, lemon, pomegranate, and almond trees, as well as interminable forests of olives. The southern coast is destitute of ports, and has scarcely any safe roadsteads ; but on the northern side are several ex¬ cellent and capacious harbours. There is something peculiar in the appearance and disposition of its inhabitants ; they are taller than the other natives of Greece, strong, active, and especially remarkable for agility and swiftness; daring, vindictive, venal, rapacious, and unwilling to submit to the restraints of law and order : they retain, in short, those distinctive characteristics of the old Cretans, which caused their merce¬ nary troops to be so much esteemed, 351 23. CRETE (CANDIA). JEgean Islands. and their name to he so deeply detested throughout Greece and Asia. They likewise differ from their neighbours in respect of dress and arms; instead of the shaggy mantle, camise, and classic buskin of Albania, or the cumbrous garments of the Ottomans, they wear short jerkins and drawers of light tex¬ ture, their white cloaks, and boots (generally red) reaching to the knee, but extremely pliable; and in place of the ill-poised Albanian musket which has hardly any stock, or the ponderous Turkish carabines, they use long and light guns mounted like European fowl¬ ing pieces. In handling these weapons they display as much skill as their an¬ cestors did' in shooting with the bow ; they are reckoned the best marksmen in the* East, but their warfare is entirely one of ambuscade and bush-fighting, resembling that of the North-American Indians, where it is considered the chief excellence of a soldier to take aim at the foe without suffering himself to be seen.” Before the Revolution the whole population was rated by a high autho¬ rity at 250,000; it ha'd sunk by war and exile, in 1S34, to 150,000, and is now (1853) estimated at about 200,000, of whom not quite one-fourth are Ma- hommedans, and the remainder Chris¬ tians.* But those Cretans who profess the faith of Islam must be looked upon as Mussulman Greeks rather than Turks, their origin being mainly derived from apostasy, and the custom of intermar¬ rying with Greek women. So much alike are the Christians and Moslems in speech and semblance, that in action they found it difficult to discriminate friends from enemies, and the Greeks adopted a practice of fighting bare¬ headed, in order that their own party might recognise them by their flowing locks. It would perhaps be natural to suppose that this similarity, relation¬ ship, and continual intercourse, ought to have modified the rigour of the Otto¬ man yoke; on the contrary, however, * The population of Crete in ancient times is estimated by Mr. Pashley (vol. ii. p. 326) at not less than a million, which amount would not people it so densely as Malta is peopled at the present day. no Ravahs were so harshly treated as those of Crete, and nowhere did the ruling caste exercise so inhuman a de¬ gree of tyranny. “ It was this abomi¬ nable system,” continues General Gor¬ don, “ that pushed so many Christians to apostasy; but many, though out¬ wardly Mahommedans, retained in secret, from generation to generation, the reli¬ gion of their forefathers, and had their children privately baptised. * Such were the two brothers Xunnulis, who not only resumed, at the outbreak of the Revolution, an undisguised profession of Christianity, but, after spending an ample fortune in its defence, died before Athens, for the cause of Grecian liberty, in the campaign of 1827.” There is one district on the south¬ western coast which has always enjoyed a certain share of wild independence, though tributary to the Porte—a cir¬ cumstance for which it was indebted, like Maina and Suh on the mainland, to its asperity and poverty ; it is called Sphakia, and is neither extensive nor populous, the number of its shepherd- warriors little exceeding 1000. Accord¬ ing to general opinion, they are Cretan aborigines. Some indeed have started an idea that they are colonists from Sphax in Africa, who came over with the Saracens; but this error seems to have arisen from their name, and from confounding them with another tribe (the Abadiots), evidently of Arabic race. The latter does not now exist, having been swept from the face of the earth during the progress of the w r ar. Inha¬ biting a narrow and mountainous terri¬ tory, the Sphakiots were brave, hardy, and laborious, but greedy and arrogant. It may be a question whether their pride and avidity did not do more to retard, than their valour to advance, the emancipation of Crete. Their chief village, built on the flanks of two oppo- * 'We may compare with this fact the asser¬ tion of Mr. Borrow, in his ‘ Bible in Spain,’ that many of the descendants of the Spanish Moors and .Jews still secretly cherish the faith of their forefathers, though openly professing Chris- tianity, and even, in some instances, holding high dignities in the Christian Church. For a full account of the family of the Kurmulides see < Pashley’s Crete,’ chap. vii. 352 Sect. III. 23. CRETE (CANDIA). site hills, carried on a little trade in cheese and honey, although its port, called Lutron (A our^ov), is so much ex¬ posed to the south winds that they were obliged to haul up their barks on the beach. The fertile islets of Gozo (the ancient Gaudos),* in the Libyan Sea, composed a valuable part of the posses¬ sions of the Sphakiots. Considering the character of the Cretan Mussulmans, and their habitual cruelty in peaceable times, the life, fortune, and domestic honour of every Christian being absolutely at the mercy of the lowest Moslem, we can easily conceive that the Creek Rayahs were exposed to imminent danger when the revolt of 1821 was announced, and numerous cruisers, bearing the Hellenic flag, blockaded the coast of Crete. The Mahommedans were dismayed at first; but fear sharpening their ferocity, they began to butcher the Christians in the towns; and all the bishops especially were early massacred. The attempt to disarm the Sphakiot s produced a general insurrection, of which those moun¬ taineers were the nucleus; and such was the valour and energy of the Cretans that within a year from the .commencement of the revolt, the Moslems were almost all cooped up and blockaded in the fortified towns of Ehania (Canea), Rhithymna (Rhithym- nos), and Megalo-kastron (Candia). An army of 7000 Albanians was sent in aid of the native Mussulmans by the Yiceroy of Egypt in 1822, but most of them fell by disease and the sword be¬ fore the ensuing year, without gaming any advantage over the insurgents. In 1824 a still stronger force was sent against the Cretans, and they were forced to submit. Thousands of them left their country, while the vengeance of the victors was wreaked on those who remained. The flames of insurrec¬ tion blazed forth anew after the battle of Navarino, and this second revolt was even more widely spread than the first. The Mahommedans, once more im¬ prisoned within the fortified towns, would probably soon have been forced * The Clauda of Acts xxvii. 16. to abandon the island, had it not been decided by the three allied Powers that the arrangement made by the Sultan should take effect, and that Crete should be united to the government of Meliemet Ali. Thus were both parties disappointed at the termination of the struggle. The Christians bad only ex¬ changed a Pasha sent from Constan¬ tinople for one sent from Alexandria ; while the Cretan Mahommedans, who hated the Egyptians from the moment of their landing, were to submit to a power hardly dependent on the Sultan, and one able to enforce its own decrees, and to treat with equal rigour all the inhabitants of the island. The Greeks saw that a decision fatal to their hopes had been taken, but received at the same time assurances of the sympathy of the British Government, and of the legal and orderly system about to be established by the viceroy. Thus they submitted, and the viceroy endeavoured as much as possible to reassure them. For a short period good government and order prevailed; but in October, 1831, changes were introduced, proving the intention of the viceroy to convert the island into a mere source of revenue; but still no measures bad been directed against the Christians, and exiles con¬ tinued to return, particularly after the death of Capo d’lstria, when it was rumoured that Crete woiild be included in the chart of free Greece, which was now to be re-constructed by the allies. After the commencement of hostilities between Mehemet Ali and the Porte the Christians continued to be favour¬ ably regarded, while the rest of the population were looked upon with dis¬ trust. But soon afterwards additional burdens were laid on the island, and new taxes imposed. King Otho’s arrival in Greece in January, 1833, produced no important effect in Crete; but in the April follow¬ ing the authorities were alarmed by the reports of disembarkations of Greeks in different parts of the island. On the 12th of August, 1833, the viceroy of Egypt visited Crete in person, and the people, emboldened by his promises, delivered 353 JEgean Islands. 23. Crete a petition complaining of the unpopular innovations introduced, to Mustafa Pasha, the governor of the island, in order that it might be presented to the viceroy. The governor refused to de¬ liver it, and drew up in its stead a ful¬ some petition, expressive only of hap¬ piness and affection, which was signed by 40 or 50 Greeks in the pay of the government. This wretched trick was meant to be played off as an expression of the senti¬ ments of the Cretan people, and may, perhaps, have been so regarded by Col. Campbell, the British consul-general in Egypt, who accompanied the viceroy in his progress. A proclamation was published the day after the viceroy’s departure, con¬ taining a number of oppressive and offensive provisions. The tendency of these measures, if executed by persons “ well acquainted with the laws of Egypt,” would be to make the viceroy proprietor of a great part of the landed property of the country, and to reduce the independent mountaineers of Crete to the condition of the fellahs on the banks of the Nile. On Sunday, the 8th of September, an Albanian officer pre¬ sented himself at the church of a village on the declivity of the great Sphakian mountains, 10 miles from Khania, and at the conclusion of the service read the proclamation; an observation from a Christian peasant was answered by a blow from a Turk, and immediately a tumult commenced, which ended in the Albanian and his soldiers being com¬ pelled to retire into the city. The pea¬ sants then descended into the plain round Khania, and the assembly soon became numerous. They sent a depu¬ tation to the consuls of England, France, and Russia, imploring them to defend them from these alarming innovations. The consuls suggested that they should return peaceably home, and await the return of Mustafa Pasha, the governor-general of the island, who was then at Megalo-Kas- tron; but instead of dispersing, they constituted themselves into a perma¬ nent assembly, and despatched a me- (candia). morial to the ministers of the Tliree Powers at Nauplia, determining to re¬ main assembled till they received an answer. The number of persons thus congregated, and dwelling quietly under the trees in and about the village of Murnies,3miles fromKliauia, amounted to several thousands. At length the Pasha arrived, but found that the people had no longer any confidence in his promises. They remembered his refusal to present their petition to the viceroy of Egypt, and his substitution of another in its stead, so that all Iris entreaties that they would disperse were useless. But after the publication, on the 22d of September, of a proclamation, promising redress on almost every point, many were dis¬ posed to accede to the Pasha’s solicita¬ tions, and gradually the numbers began to diminish. Thus an extraordinary spectacle was seen for several days. Here was an assembly of Cretan moun¬ taineers, most of whom had, for nearly ten years, been inured to every scene of rapine and bloodshed, but who now peaceably demanded security for the observance of their rights, which they believed tohave been guaranteed totliem by the allies on their transfer to Egypt, and who were really aiming to exert moral rather than physical force. The arrival of the French brig, Le Falinure, without bringing them, as they hoped, the answer of the French minister to their petition, added to the persuasions of the French commander, joined to those of the consuls at Khania, caused a further diminution of the numbers assembled at Mumies. A few days later the English admiral, Sir Pul- teney Malcolm, put into Suda from stress of weather, and used his utmost [ endeavours to persuade the mal-contents that the Pasha “ had made them excel- ® lent promises, which they ought to acceptbut they still announced their determination to remain assembled till they received an official answer. On the 17th of the same month arrived the Egyptian squadron. The Greeks flocked round their old acquaintance, the ad¬ miral Osman Pasha, who had aided 354 Sect. III. 23 . CRETE Mustafa Pasha in the pacification of the island in 1830, and entreated Ins pro¬ tection. The two Pashas proceeded to Murnies, where they found scarcely a hundred unarmed peasants, of whom they arrested only five or six, who were almost immediately released. But few persons now remained assembled, and the meeting had lost its formidable cha¬ racter, and it would have been well if the matter had been suffered to rest here ; but on the arrival of an Egyptian corvette with a reinforcement of troops, the Pashas, who, it would appear, had received fresh orders, went out and ar¬ rested 33 of the peasants who remained assembled at Murnies: no resistance was made, and the soldiers had no oc¬ casion to use their arms. On the 14th, tliree battalions of in¬ fantry arrived in ten transports, and everything remained quiet. Mehemet Ali, however, not yet satisfied, ordered the Pashas to put a certain number of the Cretans to death, and notwithstand¬ ing the remonstrances made by the consuls at Khania to the French and English representatives at Alexandria, it was directed on the 3rd of December, that 10 of the 33 persons who had been arrested, should be taken to Murnies, the place of meeting, and hanged : no selection was made among them, 10 was the only number mentioned. During the previous night 21 other persons were arrested and executed in different parts of the island. It would be diffi¬ cult to describe the effect produced by these atrocious murders: every one, even the most peaceable, felt that he might have been seized ; and this feel¬ ing was common to both Christians and Mahommcdans. Had these measures been anticipated, the Sphakians would doubtless have risen in open revolt, and have been joined by the Cretans of both religions ; but the executions took place simultaneously, without any one ex¬ pecting such a catastrophe. They had the effect intended—that of inspiring terror; and all was quiet for several years. But in 1841 a very serious in¬ surrection broke out, and the Greeks gallantly maintained an almost hopeless (candia). struggle for about four months, when, after various endeavours to prevent bloodshed, those who remained in arms were carried off the island by a British man-of-war. Statistics. —Crete is at the present day governed by a Pasha, and is divided into the three provinces of Khania , Rhithymnos , and Megato-Kastron , so named from their respective capitals— the three chief towns of the island. These provinces are subdivided into 20 districts (I’ra.p^lai), of which the first has 5, the second 4, and the third 11. In each province there is a local council of government, nominated by the Pasha, but composed of Christians as well as of Mahommedans. The annual revenue of Crete is supposed to he about 90,000/. The Rayahs pay the poll-tax, as elsewhere in the Turkish empire; and various duties and customs are levied. The peasants are generally proprietors of the lands which they farm; otherwise they cultivate the property of the Agas on a kind of metayer system. Agri¬ culture is still at a low ebb, though it is now improving, and recovering from the devastating effects of the war from 1821 to 1830, when so many of the olive plantations and vineyards were destroyed and villages burnt down. The average consumption of British manu¬ factures does not exceed 2000/. annu¬ ally. Oil, soap, and fruits of various lands are the principal exports. The regular garrison does not exceed 4500 men, chiefly Arabs and Albanians ; but every Mussulman is armed. The chief towns are fortified, and there are several fortresses in various parts of the island. Religion , &c.—It has been already observed that the mass of the popula¬ tion of Crete belongs to the Greek church, only one - fourth being now Mahommedans. There are a few Jews and Latins in the towns. Crete is sub¬ ject to the patriarch of Constantinople, and is divided into 8 bishoprics, the metropolitan see being at Megalo- Kastron. There are 30 large and many small monasteries in the island; all endowed with lands like the Mosques. The priesthood are generally very 355 23. CRETE (CAXDIA). JEgean Islands. ignorant. There are a few schools in the large towns. II .—Excursions in the interior of Crete must be made on horseback, and with preparations similar to those ne¬ cessary in other parts of Greece {see Introduction). Khania, the residence of the English and other foreign con¬ suls, and the commercial capital, should be made the traveller’s head-quarters. He should procure letters, through the consul, to the government functionaries, &c. in the different districts. Khania (ra Xaw«, Italice Canea) is a seaport on the N. shore of the island, 25 miles from its W. extremity, and about 140 miles S. of Svra, with which there is frequent communication. The population amounts to 8000, of whom 5000 are Mahommedans, and 1000 foreigners, chiefly Hellenes andlonians, who engross most of the unport trade. The town, inclusive of the port, forms an irregular square, enclosed by walls, with bastions and a ditch on the land side. The fortifications were the work of the Venetians ; and the port, the best in Crete, is protected by a mole about 1200 feet in length. At the N. part of the town is a kind of citadel, formerly containing the arsenal, docks, &c. The Venetian city dates from a.d. 1252, when a colony was sent to occupy it. Their object was to keep down the Greeks, who had been almost constantly at war with their Italian masters, from the period of the first establishment of the Venetians in the island. The view of the town of Khania from the sea, and the grandeur of the White Moun¬ tains rising in the background, and covered with snow nearly all the year, are very striking. A beautiful plain extends from the gate of the city to the JRhiza , a term which includes all the lower northern slopes of the Sphakian mountains. The arches are still to be seen, which were designed for the Ve- netian galleys; and coats of arms are found over the doorways of some of the principal houses. Most of the churches, both Greek and Latin, have been con¬ verted into mosques. The chapel of San Rocco is recognized by the follow¬ ing inscription on its entablature: Eeo ofM. et D. Rocco, dicatvm, mdcxxx.” In the Venetian building, now used as a military hospital, at a considerable height from the ground, is a bas-relief of the lion of St. Mark, with an inscrip¬ tion below it. The natives of Crete long considered their own countryman Titus as their patron Saint. The bronze guns which had been suffered by the Turks to remain on the ramparts of this city, and on those of the other Venetian fortresses, were mostly re¬ moved by Mehemet Ali, and taken to Alexandria. The several consulates look on the port, and are distinguished by their respective flags. The Greek lan¬ guage is generally spoken throughout Crete, and the rural population under¬ stand no other; Turkish and Arabic will be heard in the towns. Khania stands on or near the site of Cydonia , as appears from Strabo, Scylax, an cl other authorities; but from the vicis¬ situdes which tliis town experienced during the middle ages, no remains of the ancient city are now discoverable. The environs of Khania afford several delightful excursions. The traveller should not omit to visit the scene of the tragedy recorded above (page 354), the village of Murnies , which is less than 3 miles S. of Khania, at the foot of the mountains; near it is the monastery of St. Eleutherios. In the chapel of this convent are paintings of our Saviour, the A irgin, and various saints, and a crucifix con¬ sisting of an iron cross, with a Christ in alto-relievo upon it. This latter is remarkable as being a novelty in the Greek church, approaching to the prac¬ tice of the Roman Catholic worship. A long day should be devoted to the Ahroteri, the peninsular promontory immediately to the N.E. of Khania. By setting out early the traveller may reach the convent of Katholico, where he can dine on provisions taken with him, and return to the city the same evening. Half-an-hour N.E. of Khania is the village of Kalepa, situated on a rising ground not far from the shore. From above this village is a noble view 356 23. CRETE of the snow-clad Sphakian mountains, and of part of the plain, to the left and to the right of the fortified city of the Grulf of Khania, with the Dictynnsean promontory beyond, and, in the dist¬ ance, the Corycian cape. The road from hence to the convent of the Holy Trinity passes near two or three villages without entering into any. The part of the Akroteri, over which it passes, is barren and uncultivated, but abounds in red-legged partridges. The monastery of the Trinity , surrounded by lofty cypresses, is substantially built. The chm’ch in the middle of the court is in the form of a Latin cross ; the front is ornamented with Doric columns ; over the doorway is an inscription, appro¬ priate to a convent dedicated to the Trinity. The monasteries in this part of Crete pay conjointly a sum of money to the patriarch of Constantinople, who is said to receive not less than 2000 l. annually in dues from the whole island. The convent of St. John is less than 3 miles from that of the Trinity: J a mile farther is the Cave of the Bear, at the entrance of which is a little chapel. The cavern derives its name from the resemblance of a piece of rock within it to the form of a sitting bear. At the distance of a mile from this cave is the secluded monastery of Katholico. Near it is a beautiful grotto, to which the traveller descends by a flight of 140 steps. The height of it varies from 10 to 50 or 60 feet, and it is nearly 500 feet long; its sides are covered with beautiful stalactites, some of them form¬ ing columnar supports for the roof of the cavern, some transparent and others brilliantly white. A few paces below the mouth of the cavern is a small church cut out of the solid rock. Near it are the cells of monks now abandoned. In the bridge, winch is here thrown across the deep ravine, is an opening leading into a solitary cell, which is said to have been used by the monks as a place of imprisonment. The wild and sequestered spot in which the convent of Katholico is situated is not above 1000 paces from the sea. Many Greek monasteries are picturesque and beauti- (candia). Sect. III. ful objects ; but there is no place more fitted than this glen, for those who may have desired “ remote from man with God to pass their days.” EXCURSION 1* FROM KHANIA BY THE BAY OF SUDA, APTEBA, &C. TO BHITHYMNOS. From Khania to Paleo-castron, on the bay of Suda, the road leads over the plain, the greater part of which was stripped of its ohves when Ibrahim Pasha encamped here in 1825, on his way to the Morea. Near the saltpans, or saline (in Turkish Tuzla), the ground becomes a marsh, and is only rendered passable by the remains of portions of the old Venetian paved road. The marsh abounds in snipes. The rock of Suda, which is a conspicuous object the whole way, is said to have been a constant re¬ ceptacle for corsairs during the 16th century, and was used as a landing place in 1571 by the Turks, who ra¬ vaged the territory of Khania, and burnt the town of Rhithymnos. In conse¬ quence the Venetians fortified the islet, and retained it with the castles of Grabusa, at the N.W., and of Spina- lonya, near the N.E. extremity of Crete, for many years after the Turks took possession of the rest of the island. The islet of Suda and the rocks around it were the Leucce of the ancients, and the Siren Isles of Homer have been supposed to be identical with them. Leaving the Bay of Suda, and crossing j a ridge, the traveller descends to the plain of A^polcorona, which is hounded on the S. by the eastern half of the I White Mountains, the outline of which is bold and beautiful. Turning to the left on commencing the descent, we find 2 ancient tombs, and soon after reach the ruins called Paleo-castron , in the midst of which is situated a monastery. A little distance to the S. and S.W. are * In these excursions (which will occupy from 6 weeks to 2 months in all) we have chiefly fol¬ lowed Mr. I'ashley, and refer our readers to his learned and valuable work for minute and accu¬ rate details respecting the antiquities, customs, manners, popular poetry, dialect, and general condition of Crete. 357 JEgean Islands. 23 . Crete the traces of 2 ancient buildings, near which are fragments of several columns, and farther to the E. similar fragments indicate the site of 3 or 4 other build¬ ings. Sear these remains are those of a theatre, but not cut out of the rock like most G-reek theatres. A consider¬ able portion of the walls of the city re¬ mains ; part of them appear, from their stvle, to have been constructed before the Roman conquest of the island, and in one spot, ^ mile N.E. of the mo¬ nastery, the remains of the walls are polygonal, almost as massive as those of Tiiyns. N. and N.E. of the monastery is a large brick building, composed of numerous arches, some above and some J below ground. There are also the re¬ mains of a large cistern under ground. It is probable that these ruin9 are those of Aptera. Here was placed the scene of the legendary contest between the Sirens and the Muses, when, after the victory of the latter, the Sirens lost the feathers of their wings, and having thus become white, cast themselves into the sea— whence the name of the city Aptera, and the neighbouring islets Leuca. Berecynthos was in the district of Aptera, and has been identified with the modern Malax a. From Paleo-castron to Rhithymnos the road continues over the plain of Apokorona, with the White Moun¬ tains on the right, and the promontory of Drepanon on the left, and after pass¬ ing a fountain called White Water, arrives at the so-called Hellenic bridge. It then follows the E. bank of a river which runs down from the White Mountains, and falls into the sea near the hamlet of Armyro, where are the remains of a modem castle. Here all is desolation: the castle was stormed and dismantled by the Greeks at the commencement of the revolution, and the village has shared the same fate. In this neighbourhood must have been the ancient Amphimalla or Amphimal- lion. f hour from Armyro is the small hamlet of Murni. At the foot of the hills, near this place, is Lake Kurna, so called from a village on the hill above it. (candia). 1 hour hence, on the shore, is the village of Dramia, occupied in winter by the Sphakians, who descend from the moun¬ tains in October, and remain here till April. It is probable that the city of Hydramon existed on this spot, or in the neighbourhood. The village of Episkopi , a short distance farther, consists now of 100 families. It contained before the revo¬ lution 300. Episkopi to Polls (called also Gaid- uropolis, the city of Asses).* This town is within the confines of Rhithym¬ nos, though very near the borders of Sphakia. Before reaching Polis are considerable remains of a massive brick building, at one end of which are some large buttresses. Close by are the re¬ mains of a circular building. 300 paces S.S.W. of Polis is an ancient cistern, 76 feet long, and nearly 20 feet -wide. A rapid descent, on the W. side of the village, leads to considerable remains of a Roman brick building, beyond which, in the deep valley between Polis and the mountain Phterolako, is the stream which divides the Eparchia or district of Apokorona from that of Rhithymnos. There are remains of some Venetian buildings in the village, one of which was evidently a large palace. Polis is supposed to be the site of the ancient city of Lappa, or Lampe, which was restored by Augustus, a fact which ac¬ counts for the number of Roman re¬ mains here. The village of St. Constantine is only 4 miles from Polis, but the road is so bad that it requires 2 hours to reach it. 1 mile hence is the village of Rustika, and the monastery of the Prophet Elias. 1 mile from Rustika the tra¬ veller crosses a streamlet in a very pic¬ turesque valley, and soon after traverses a plain 4miles long, and passing through the villages of Prine and Alitsopulo, arrives at a curious bridge of 2 rows of arches, one above the other. This was a co mm on mode of construction among * 'HT u.i'hovQO'xaXii. Similar terms of reproach or ridicule are frequently applied to towns and villages in Greece by the envy or jealousy of their neighbours. 358 Sect. III. 23 . CRETE the Romans; witness tli ePont du Gard near Nimes. Near this bridge are exca¬ vations in the rock, one of which is a chapel dedicated to St. Antony. Rhithymnos , the ancient Rhithymna, a place of less importance in ancient times than in modern, now contains a popu¬ lation of upwards of 3000 souls, of whom only about 80 families are Christians. The bazars and streets, which are better than those at Khania, have entirely a Turkish character. The citadel is like most other Turkish forts, those guns which are not dismounted being either broken or unserviceable, from rust and neglect. There are among them several large bronze Tenetian swivels. EXCURSION 2. PROM RHITHYMNOS BY AXOS AND TY- LISSOS TO MEGALO-KASTRON. Leaving Rhithymnos we proceed to the village of Pege, i. e. Wells; on one side of which are about 1000 olive-trees, which wefe formerly the property of the Sultana. The Kislar Aga , or Chief of the Eunuchs at Constantinople (an im¬ portant officer of the Seraglio), used to name the Aga of this village, who, if not liked by the inhabitants, was re¬ moved at the end of 2 years. They once kept the same Aga, a Mohamme¬ dan of the village, for 33 years. An hour after leaving Pege we reach the village of Pagalohhori, and soon see, to the right, the ruins of another vil¬ lage, Khamalevri. 1 mile farther is the small and impoverished monastery of Arsani. The church is dedicated to St. George, and contains an elementary school. 6 miles from Arsani, the road leads over the top of a ridge, whence the view extends over the fertile plain of Mylopotamo , interspersed with vil¬ lages among olive-trees. Beyond the plain is the conical mountain of Meli¬ doni. The road then passes the ruined village of Perama. Proceeding hence towards Melidoni the road turns to the left of the regular road, between Rhi¬ thymnos and Megalo-kastron, and after a short and steep ascent reaches a barren tract, which extends as far as the alive (candia). trees by which Melidoni is surrounded. An ascent of \ hour from the village conducts the traveller to the entrance of a Cavern, which, from the beauty of its stalactites, rivals even the grotto of Antiparos. It was dedicated of old to the Tallaean Hermes, as appears from an ancient and interesting inscription over its entrance. It is now nearly obliterated, but it will be found, with a translation, in Pashley's Crete , vol. i. p. 138. A number of lights are neces¬ sary for the exploration of this cavern; they may be procured in the neighbour¬ ing village. On passing the entrance, the traveller finds himself in a spacious chamber, running E. and W., almost as wide as it is long. Its vaults and sides are fretted with noble stalactites, while stalagmites of great size are scattered on the ground. In the middle of this chamber, on the S. side, is the mouth of a low wide passage, about 30 feet long. The stalactites in it sometimes descend to the ground. On the opposite side of the entrance cavern is another pas¬ sage, 20 feet wide and 60 feet high, almost closed at its extremity by a great group of stalactites. Beyond this spot the passage becomes 30 feet wide and 80 feet high ; it terminates in a perpen¬ dicular descent of 18 feet, beyond which the cavern has not been explored. At the N.E. extremity of the entrance of the cavern is another passage, 10 feet long, terminating in a chamber, 27 feet long, on the opposite side of which is another narrow pass, 13 feet long. On emerging from this passage we descend to another apartment, where a spec¬ tacle of surpassing beautypresents itself. This apartment is 150 feet long. It varies greatly in width, and the height is considerable. Between 20 and 30 feet from the mouth of the pass is a great stalagmite, which rises up and forms a column reaching to the top of the cave; while the stalactites on each side hang in the most perfect order; a range of stalactites, on the S.W. side of this apartment, separates it from a good- sized passage, which leads to a very small room ; below this are 2 other small rooms. This grotto became, during the 359 fEgean Islands. 23. Crete (candia). Revolution, the tomb of 300 Christians, ] died in the course of 20 days after this whose bones and skulls were lying in fatal confirmation of their fears. Ac- heaps in its chambers When it was cording to tradition, the caverns of Crete visited by Mr. Pashley in 1834. These were used in a similar manner in very unha up v people took‘refuge there when early times, so that the Cretan's Refuge Mustafa Bev and Kliusein Bev came to (xpvrQuy'.rev) became the general name Melidoni with their troops. They felt of grottos thus supposed to be places no fear, for they retreated to what was of security from danger. Compare the deemed an impregnable fortress, and like destruction of the islanders of Egg had provisions to stand a siege of half a in the Hebrides, as told by Sir W. Scott, year. Khusein Bey in vain summoned Leaving Melidoni, we regain the the fugitives to come from their lurking- regular road to Rhithymnos, which we place; his messenger was fired upon and had quitted at Perama, and pass by the fell. He then attempted to force an village of Dafnicies; Mount Ida is to entrance, and in so doing lost 24 brave the right, and the hill of Melidoni still Amaouts. A Greek woman was then in front : 3 miles farther is the Ivlian sent to them, but she was shot, and her Papativrysi, now a ruin. The village of bodv cast from the mouth of the cavern. Gharazo is at a short distance up the Kliusein Bey then caused the entrance S. side of the valley. Gharazo is cele- of the cavern to be filled up with stones, brated for the beauty of its female m- thus depriving the Christians both ot habitants. air and light. The next morning it was From Gharazo a gentle ascent of 1£ found that an opening had been made, hour leads through vineyards to Axos. The attempt of the Turks to close the Before entering this village we observe entrance was twice repeated, but finding some tombs excavated in the rocks. The that the Christians could still breathe river Axos flows past the village; it is and live, they filled up the entrance alluded to by Yirgil (“ rapidum Cretse with wood, barrels of oil, straw, sulphur, veniemus Oaxem,” Eel. 166). On the &c., and when their work was com- hill adjoining, roimd which the road pleted, set fire to these combustibles, winds, are the remains of the walls of a The dense vapour so rapidly filled the middle-age fortress; and on the N. side first apartment, that many perished may be seen some fragments of poly- before effecting their escape to the inner gonal masonry belonging, probably, to recesses ; gradually it penetrated into the ancient Acropolis of Axos. Just the second chamber, where many more above the modem village, at some little fell, and finally into the smaller and distance from these remains, is a dilapi- I farthest chambers, when the work of dated church of St. John, whose sides destruction was completed, and not a and roof are covered with rude frescos; soul escaped. After the lapse of 18 days the floor consists of remains of Mosaic the Mahommedans sent a Greek pri- work. A few inscriptions are to be soner to ascertain the state of things, found in the village ; on one, discovered and on his report they entered the by Mr. Pashley, was a decree of the cavern, stripping their victims of every “ Common Assembly of the Cretans, thing of value, and appropriating to an instance of the well known Syncret - themselves the stores and property ism, as it w T as called. The situation of which they found. Soon after this, Axos answers to the most probable while the Turks were still at Melidoni, etymology of the name; it was called 6 Christians, who had friends in the Axos because it stands on broken , pre- cavem, were impelled, by their anxiety, cipitous ground, that word being used to ascertain the truth: 3 of them de- by the Cretans in the same sense that scended, and the effect produced on them the other Greeks assigned to bypos, a will best testify to their grief. One J crag. A village still called Rleuthcrna , never raised his head again, and died ; 12 miles from Axos, stands probably cn only 9 days afterwards, and another j the site of the ancient Eleuthema, 360 Sect. III. 23. CRETE (CANDIA). Leaving Axos, the road descends to a river, and crossing S.S.E. of the acro¬ polis, begins to ascend. The general aspect of the country is barren. The ascent continues on the N. side of a valley bounded by lofty mountains, and at length reaches Gonies, a miserable hamlet, one of the few places in Crete where there are no olive-trees. Hence we proceed to Tylissos and Megalo-kastron. The road descends to the river, and after following its course for 2 miles, ascends a rugged chain of mountains, from whose su mmi t there is a view of the plain and city of Megalo- kastron, the largest town in the island. Its solid walls and lofty minarets make it very conspicuous. A rather tedious descent leads to Tylissos , still retaining its ancient name, hut now reduced to some 30 houses, surrounded by carob and olive trees. The neighbouring rock is full of imbedded shells. Leaving Tylissos, we pass a ruined Khan, and arrive at the picturesque fountain of Selvili. In rather more than 1 hour after leaving the foun¬ tain, we reach the gate of Megalo-kastron, or Candia, which has given its Italian name to the island. This town, which occupies, probably, the site of the ancient Matium , is exclusively Turkish in its character, and its bazars are filled with articles of eastern luxury. A large building, probably the cathedral church of the Latin archbishop, is, next to the massive walls, the most consider¬ able of the Venetian remains. It is now in a very dilapidated state: it was dedi¬ cated to St. Titus, the patron saint. In this cathedral was preserved the valuable relic of the head of St. Titus : according to the Christian legend, his body could never be found after the capture of G-ortyna by the Saracens, and on the conquest of Crete by the Turks, the priests transported the head of the saint to Venice. The Greeks of Crete, con¬ sidering St. Mark as the protector of their foreign lords, used themselves to raise the standard of St. Titus in their frequent rebellions against the Most Serene Republic. Among the mosques of Megalo-kastron is one called after St. Catherine, its name being Haghia Katerina djame. In this city there is no apparent difference be¬ tween the dresses of the Greek and of the Turkish ladies ; both of them con¬ cealing their faces when they leave their houses. This custom was general among the ladies of ancient Greece, at least with the young and beautiful; and it was not borrowed from the Turks. The population of Megalo-kastron amounts to about 12,000, 10,000 of whom are Mohammedans. Near the old Jewish comer of the city is a Vene¬ tian fountain, with a Latin inscription, which records the occasion of its erec¬ tion, and the name of the Venetian Proveditor, by whose beneficence it was built. Several other relics of Venetian sway still exist; such as the vaults built for the galleys. The massive fortifica¬ tions are also of Venetian construction. The port is protected by 2 moles, but is at present so choked up with sand that a vessel drawing more than 8 feet water cannot enter. The small islet of Dia lies a few miles N. of this harbour. A few mi les S. of Megalo-kastron is Makron Teikhos (fitzxgiv Ti7x°t), the site of Cnossos. All that now remains of the ancient metropolis of Crete are some rude masses of Roman brickwork, part of the so-called long wall, from which the modem name of the site is derived. Among the distinguished men of Cnossos were, Ctesiphon, and his son Metagenes, the architect of the great temple of Diana of Ephesus; JEnesidemus, the philosopher ; and Ergoteles, whose vic¬ tories in the Grecian games are cele¬ brated by Pindar ( Olymp ., xii.). Cnos¬ sos was an early Dorian colony ; and in later times, by its alliance with Gortyna, obtained the dominion over the whole island. Afterwards it became a Roman colony. Mr. Pashley has observed that the natural caverns and excavated sepulchres in the neighbourhood of Cnossos, recal the well-known legend of the Cretan labyrinth, whose locality is uniformly assigned to that city. It was described as a building erected by Daeda¬ lus, for the Minotaur; there is, how- 3G1 JEgean Islands. 23. Crete (candia). ever, no sufficient reason to suppose that the Cretan Labyrinth ever liad a more real existence than its fabled occu¬ pant. Much as is said in the Homeric poems of Daedalus, Minos, Ariadne, and other Cretan worthies, it is in vain that we search to find in them any evidence of the material existence of the monu¬ ment. EXCURSION 3. FROM MEGALO-KASTROX BY ARKHAXES, KAXI KASTELLI, SARKO, ETC., BACK TO MEGALO-KASTROX. Crossing the cultivated plain sur¬ rounding the city, the road in less than 1J hour begins to ascend the stony slopes of the E. side of Mount Jiiktas. At length on a slightly rising ground, the village of Arkhanes appears, sur¬ rounded by a few olives and cypresses. It requires an hour from the village to reach the summit of Mount Juktas, where remain the massive foundations of a building, the length of which was about 80 feet. Within this space is an aperture in the ground, which may once have led to a moderate-sized cave; but whatever may have been its former size, it is now not more than 8 or 10 feet in diameter, and so low that a man cannot stand upright in it. These are the only remains of the supposed tomb of the “Father of Gods and men,” which was an object of such deep religious venera¬ tion among the ancient Cretans down to the extinction of Paganism. From this point is an extensive view over the plain of Kastron. On the E. side of the mountain, about 100 paces from its summit, are traces of ancient walls. Below the village of Arkhanes are the remains of a Venetian aqueduct. The road from Arkhanes to Kani KasteUi, after ascending for 2 miles, descends round the S. escarpment of Mt. Juktas, and comes in sight of the lofty mountains which bound the plain of Megalo-kastron to the W. The road now runs over low ranges of hills, and reaches Kani KasteUi , 2 hours after leaving Arkhanes. It derives its name from a ruined fortress of the middle Greece. ' ages, on the summit of a very remark¬ able hill. The space contained within the walls of the fortress is considerable, and includes two rocky summits: a single line of wall runs between the two, and the highest summit, called Rhoka (Ps*«, from the Italian rocca), is de¬ fended by an inner wall. In ascending may be observed the remains of a church. This Rhoka is probably the Gastello I Temenos of the Venetians, founded in the year 961, by Nicephorus Phocas, the victorious commander of the Byzantine army. The castle became celebrated in the Venetian history of the island, as the place of refuge of the Duke of Candia, when Marco Sanudo, Duke of Naxos, rebelled against Venice, and obtained for a while possession of the principal cities of Crete, lhe ancient town of Thence was probably in tliis neighbour¬ hood. 4 miles from Kani Kastelli is the monastery of St. George, Epano-Siphes , beyond the village of Karkadiotissa. It suffered severely in the Revolution. The monastery is surrounded by cy¬ presses and palm-trees. 3 miles farther is the small village of Arkadi, which Pashley proves not to occupy the site of the ancient Arcadia , which stood on the sea-shore towards the E. extremity of the island. The road then winds round a chain of hill s to the village of Galene , which is not above 3 miles from Kani Kastelli. The road now lies across low ridges, and comes to a river, whose left bank it fol¬ lows, and reaches Venerato in rather more than 2 hours after leaving Arkadi. Venerato, before the revolution, had a considerable population. It is one of the many places where, on the outbreak of the Greek revolution, scenes took place which rivalled those exhibited on the same occasion in the large cities of the Turkish empire. Parties of in¬ furiated Moslems, issuing from Megalo- kastron, scoured the country, and a band of them reached Venerato : most of the Christians fled for refuge to the lofty mountains above, but 27 were found and massacred. \ hour from Venerato the road passes R 362 Sect. III. 23. CRETE (CANDIA). through Siva, which, like most of the other villages hereabouts, is in ruins. A rapid descent of 7 minutes leads hence to a ford over a stream, which flows through this valley. On the opposite side an equally steep ascent of ) hour leads to the village of St. Myron, cele¬ brated throughout the island for the excellence of its wine. This village is probably on the site of the ancient Rhaucos. It derives its present name from a native of this place, who is not only styled in the Greek Calendar, bishop, saint, and worker of miracles, but also “holy martyr,” though it is admitted by all that he died a natural and quiet death. From St. Myron the road descends to the village of Pyrgos, and in little more than \ hour afterwards crosses a stream, which is probably the Triton of the ancients. An ascent of \ hour leads to the summit of the ridge, and soon after, the village of Sarko, embowered in trees, appears. But even the retire¬ ment of this beautiful spot could not save it from the horrors and devastation of war. The ruins of half its former houses show that it shared the fate of the other villages of the island. A cavern in the vicinity of Sarko fre¬ quently served as a place of refuge and security to the Christians. It is j hour W, of the village. It consists of a number of different chambers of various dimensions, one of them 80 feet long, connected by long and dark passages. In winter all these chambers and pas¬ sages are flooded. In some places the cave is extremely lofty, and the whole is of great extent. The diameter of the entrance cavern is about 30 feet; from thence there is an almost perpendicular ascent of 18 feet to the inner recesses, which might easily be effectually de¬ fended by a single man with a long pike against any number of assailants. Quitting Sarko the road ascends, and comes in sight of the Cretan sea; it then passes the village of Kalesia, and leav¬ ing Kavro-klwri to the right, in 2^ hours reaches Armyro (the site of Apol- Ionia), whence a path over the moun¬ tains leads to Rogdia, a very picturesque village. J hour hence are the ruin9 of a Venetian fortress, called Paleo-lcastron, situated near the sea-side, W. of Rogdia. It appears also to have been the site of an ancient city, probably of Cytaeum. Armyro is about 1 hour from this Paleo- kastron, and an hour’s ride thence brings the traveller back to the city of Megalo-ka9tron. EXCURSION 4. FROM MEGALO-KASTBON BY KHEBBONE- SOS, SPINALONGA, ETC., TO HIERA- PETRA, ON THE SOUTHERN COAST OF THE ISLAND. Leaving the city by its eastern gate, we pass over the plain, and wind among some low hills till we cross a deep river at a bridge half-way between the village of Kartero and the sea. This river is in all probability the Kaeratos of the ancients. Three hundred paces W. of Kakon Oros is a little rocky hill, on which there are vestiges of buildings, which do not appear to be of an earlier period than that of the Venetian con¬ quest, but the site and position cor¬ respond with Heraclea, of which men¬ tion is made by Pliny, as the next city E. of Matium. From this point com¬ mences the ascent of the Kakon Oros. The Venetian paved road still exists in many places; the ascent requires an liom’ to accomplish it. After leaving the mountain, and crossing a stream of water, we pass on our right the village of Gurnes, and arrive at Chives, a village chiefly inhabited by Christians. One mile from Guves is the river Aposelemi, which is crossed by a bridge. One horn’ hence is Khersonesos, once a bishopric. One mile farther on is the village of Kpiskopiano. On the sea¬ shore, about a mile off, are the ruins of an ancient city, called now Paleopolis. Here was the port of Lyttos, which sub¬ sequently became an episcopal city. 8 or 10 miles S. of these villages, hi the mountains, is Lytto, where ancient re¬ mains are still found. From this point the eastern extremity of Crete has not hitherto been so accurately described as the other portions of the island, nor 3G3 JEgean Islands. 23. Crete does it contain many objects of interest. From Episkopiano the traveller can proceed by several unimportant hamlets to Spinalonga, a strong and insulated Venetian fortress. Thence turning southward, lie may visit the slight ruins which probably mark thesites o iArsinoe, Arcadia, 3Iinon, and other ancient towns. The plain of Mirabetlo in this quarter is fertile and well-cultivated. The traveller, omitting the extreme eastern district of Setia, can then cross from the N. to the S. coast of the island, at the point where it is nar¬ rowest, that is, by the villages of B a si- like and Episcope, and so reach Hierd- petra. This place is on the site of Hierapytna, a considerable town at the time of the Roman conquest, but of which very few relics are found at the present day. The modern village was defended by a now ruinous fort of the middle ages. The roadstead is very much exposed to S. winds. In the centre of the district of Setia, and some miles X.E. of Hierapetra, there are found some remains of the ancient city of Prcesos, the capital, according to Homer, of the old Etcocretes. The lofty chain at this E. end of Crete is the range of the Diet man mountains, so celebrated in mythology. The route marked on the map is that followed by Mr. Pasbley in this district. EXCURSION 5. FROM HIEIiAPETRA ALONG THE S. COAST OF THE ISLAND, AND THEN BF THE RUINS OF GORTTNA TO RHITHYMNOS AND KHANIA. On leaving Hierapetra in a westerly course, the road crosses for one hour a plain, of which not more than two- thirds are cultivated. It then passes not far from the sea, through hills, pre¬ senting points of view which are often picturesque. On crossing the river at Myrtos, we enter the Eparkhia of Rfuzo-Kastron, bounded X. by Lassithi and Pedids, and \V. by Mesara. Six miles from Myrtos, after passing over a mountainous country, we reach a raised ridge of earth, called the “ Giant’s Tomb ’’ (T ov ri p.y,ir* t . The govern¬ ment or menzil horses are stationed only along the principal lines of road, l hey should be used when possible, as they are better than those of the Khandjis in general. Travellers provided with the proper Turkish passports (supra, p. 8) have a right to be supplied with the menzil horses, and to pay for them the same price as a Turkish government officer, i. e. so many piastres an hour for the horses, with a gratuity to the surudji, or postilion, who takes the horses back. The amount of speed depends mainly on the bakshish, or present. This is a word which will soon become familiar to the Eastern traveller, and remind him of the buona mano of Italy. Should the traveller, on arriving at a town or khan, find the gates closed, the word bakshish will make them fly open ; the same magic term will smooth all difficulties about custom-houses, passports, horses, &c. In making a bargain in these countries, it is expedient to leave a part of the sum covenanted as bakshish to be paid or not, according to punctuality and civility. The general rules for Greek travelling apply also to journeys in the Greek provinces of Turkey. (See General Introduction, a, c, d e, J, t.) The process gone through on arriving at the village which is to be the res'mg- place for the night is similar in all cases. The travellers servant, or dragoman (interpreter), finds the Khodjabashi, or headman (in Greek, primate,, who, on being shown the stranger’s firman or buyurdi (Turkish passports), assigns him a lodging in one of the Christian houses of the village. The peasant is obliged by law to receive the guest thus quartered upon him ; but he general y performs his duty in a hospitable and agreeable way. Of course he should be remunerated for his trouble, and for any articles of food which the traveller and his attendants may consume. A trifling present is usually sufficient. I lie better class of village houses in the Greek provinces of European Turkey are neatly a of a like description. “ The ground-floor is a stable, appropriated to the horses, cattle, pigs, and fowls of the owner. You enter into this menagerie by the same door which admits all the other animals, and ascend to the upper floor by a ladder, giving access to a trap-door closed at night. Here you find yourse under an open shed, where the inmates sleep in summer for the sake ot t e coolness. Off this verandah open two or at the most three rooms, the walls and 380 10. skeleton tours. Sect. IV. floors of which are made of rough planks or baked mud. They possess no other furniture except (and that only in the richer cottages) a mat or two, and a few rude cooking utensils. Half the space is generally occupied by heaps of Indian corn, the winter provision of the family, or by implements of husbandry.” On a stranger’s arrival, the good wife hastens with alacrity and good humour to pre¬ pare one of these rooms for his reception, by turning out her children, removing as much of the lumber as she can lift, spreading her best mat for him to lie upon°, and lighting a fire to cook his supper on the chimney less hearth. Then there is a grand chasse after a couple of the fattest of the fowls, which are soon caught, killed, plucked, boiled, and served up to the hungry traveller; who, if he has had the precaution to bring coflee, bread, salt, a knife and fork, a drinking cup, one or two tin plates, and a few other necessaries with him,—and if he does not object to this toujours poulet fare,—gets on wonderfully well. Of course, he must bring his bed and its appurtenances with him, or else he must sleep on the bare floor, wrapped up in his cloak. His toilsome ride during the day will generally procure him a few hours’ sleep; “ though the concert from below of asses, dogs, hogs, fowls, and rats is almost enough to waken the dead; while above, fleas (and still more noxious vermin) are too often dancing to the music of the mosquitoes, —to use the quaint phrase of an Arabian poet. The mid-day halts in the open air in summer-—when Christians stop to eat and sleep, and Moslems to pray— KaXn vwo TrXozrt/.viffraj ohv ptzv cLyXao'j Z‘omv — Beneath the plane-tree fair, whence flows the glittering stream, are much more refreshing. 10. Skeleton Tours. 1. Corfu to Constantinople, by Sayades, Joannina, Metzovo, Meteora, Larissa, Tempe, Salonica, Mount Athos, and back to Salonica, and thence by steamer to Constantinople. This tour will occupy from a month to six weeks. 2. Salonica to Scutari, by Vodena, Monastir, Akhrida, and Elbassan—a fort¬ night’s tour, or rather less. 3. From Scutari to Prevesa, by Alessio, Durazzo, Berat, Avlona, Tepele'ni, Zitza, Joannina, and Arta—from a fortnight to 3 weeks. From Avlona a week's excursion should be made into Khimdra , or the Acroceraunian Mountains (Route 41). Suli and Parga should be visited from Joannina (Route 35) ; and Nicopolis from Prevesa (Route 33). The above three tours will enable the traveller to see what is most interesting in Albania, Thessaly, and Macedonia. Albania. ROUTE 32. —CORFU TO JOANNINA. 381 ROUTE 31. CORFU TO JOANNINA BY SAYADA AND PHILATES. The shortest and most usual route from Corfu to Joannina is to cross to Sayada, a little port on the shore of Albania, nearly opposite the citadel. Here there is an Enylish Vice-Consul , who will assist with advice, &c. With a fair wind the passage to Sayada occu¬ pies only 2 or 3 hours. From Sayada to Joannina it is about 18 hours. Leaving Corfu in the morning, it will be easy to reach the same night Philates, a large Albanian village at some distance from Sayades, and where good night-quar¬ ters can be procured. Placed near that remarkably formed rock, which from Corfu is so effective a feature in the view of Albania, Philates abounds in rich and beautiful landscapes. The next considerable village on the road is Raveni. From Philates to Joannina it is one long day’s journey. The road is very pretty in parts, but there is no place or object of particular interest. Joannina (see next Route). ROUTE 32. CORFU TO JOANNINA BY DELVINO AND ZITZA. Hours. Cross to Butrinto . . 2 or 3 Butrinto to Delvino ... 7 Delvino to Delvinaki . . . . 13 Delvinaki to Zitza . . . . 8 Zitza to Joannina . . . . 4 The Castle of Butrinto is situated on the S. side of the river that commuii- cates between the lake and the sea. On the opposite bank are the ruins of Buth- rotum, among which are mingled frag¬ ments of Grecian and Roman architec¬ ture. Vestiges may be traced of the Acropolis, whose walls, composed of large blocks of stone without cement, indicate high antiquity. The castle of' Butrinto is of Venetian construction. It is the only relic—with another ruined fort near the mouth of the river—of the [ station which the Venetians maintained here for so many r centuries. (See pp. 69, 70). The garrison now consists of a dozen Albanians. The lake is 5 m. in length, and 2 m. in breadth. It produces excellent fish ; but the country around is unhealthy, in consequence of the malaria. There is splendid shooting here in winter. Butrinto to Delvino, 7 hours.— De'l- vino is a large village, in a beautiful situation. It covers an extensive space on slopiug hills, richly clothed with wood, but the plain is open and bare. A bishop of the Greek church resides here, and it was formerly the residence of a Pasha. Two leagues to the W. of Delvino are the ruins of Onchesmus, con¬ sisting of some ancient Greek tombs, and | some architectural fragments. (Route 41.) One hour to the N., among the hills, are some Cyclopean foundation-walls, j Delvino to Delvinaki, 13 hours.—The ! road ascends into the hills, and after 3 j hours enters a valley, at the termination j of which it again lies over a mountain- ! ous district. Delvinaki is a village ! situated on the side of a mountain, and j consisting of nearly 300 houses. Delvinaki to Zitza, 8 hours.—2 m. I beyond Delvinaki a steep ascent com¬ mences, and after winding through woody hills the mule-path descends through oak-forests into a plain. Leav¬ ing the river Kalamas to the left, it reaches a hamlet, which is pleasantly situated on the ascent of the hills, and surrounded by wood. Thence the road passes by the monas¬ tery of Sositio, which stands on the summit of an insulated conical hill, rising 500 ft. above the valley. Four miles before reaching Zitza is the great fall of Glizani, where the I Kalamas is precipitated over a rock 60 j or 70 feet in height. The scenery round ' l the cascade is not very striking; but the fall is singular, because the Kalamas, which is about as wide here as the Clyde at Cora Lynn, flows in a placid stream to the edge of the precipice, whence it falls in one unbroken sheet. The Ka¬ lamas is the ancient Thy amis. It has been supposed by some that Zitza is on the site of Dodona, which is placed by Leake on the lake of Joannina. The fact is, that to ascertain the site of 382 ROUTE 32. -CORFU TO JOANNINA-ZITZA. Sect. IV. Dodona, would seem now to require a response from the Oracle itself; for the former dwelling of the spirit, which once guided half the world, has lost its name and local habitation. An impor¬ tant datum for determining the site of Dodona is, that it was 4 days’ journey from Buthrotum, and 2 days from Am- bracia. According to the present com¬ putation, Zitza is about 28 hours from the former, and 17 from the latter. This meets the ease very well. We must re¬ collect that the latter journey is with, and the former against, the grain of the hard mountain ranges which stretch from N. to S., between Pindus and the Ionian Sea. Zitza. Monastic Zitza! from thy shady brow, Thou small, but favour’d spot of holy ground. Where’er we gaze, around, above, below, What rainbow tints, what magic charms are found! Rock, river, forest, mountain, all abound; And bluest skies that harmonise the whole ; Beneath the distant torrent's rushing sound Tells where the volumed cataract doth roll Between those hanging rocks, that shock yet please the soul. Amidst the grove that crowns yon tufted hill, Which, were it not for many a mountain nigh Rising in lofty ranks, and loftier still, Might well itself be deem’d of dignity, The convent's white walls glisten fair on high ; Here dwells the caloyer, nor rude is he, Nor niggard of his cheer; the passer by Is welcome still; nor heedless will he flee From hence, if he delight kind Nature’s sheen to see. Here in the sultriest season let him rest; Fresh is the green beneath those aged trees ; Here winds of gentlest wing; will fan his breast, From heaven itself he may inhale the breeze: The plain is far beneath—oh ! let him seize Pure pleasure while he can ; the scorching ray Here pierceth not, impregnate with disease ; There let his length the loitering pilgrim lay, And gaze, untired, the morn, the noon, the eve away. Dusky and huge, enlarging on the sight, Nature’s volcanic amphitheatre, Chimsera’s alps extend from left to right: Beneath a living valley seems to stir; Flocks play, trees wave, streams flow, the mountain-fir Nodding above ; behold black Acheron! * Once consecrated to the sepulchre. Pluto ! if this be hell 1 look upon, Close shunn'd Elysium’s r gates—my shade shall seek for none. The city's towers pollute the lovely view ; Unseen is Yanina, though not remote, Veiled by the screen of hills: here men are few, Scanty the hamlet, rare the lonely cot: But peering down each precipice, the goat Browseth ; and pensive o’er his scattered flock, The little shepherd in his white capote Doth lean his boyish form along the rock, Or in his cave awaits the tempest's short-lived shock. Oh ! where, Dodona ! is thine aged grove, Prophetic fount and oracle divine ? What valley echoed the response of Jove? What trace remaineth of the Thunderer's shrine ? All, all forgotten—and shall man repine That his frail bonds to fleeting life are broke? Cease, fool! the fate of Gods may well be thine: Wouldst thou survive the marble or the oak? When nations, tongues, and worlds must sink beneath the stroke 1 Byron. Zitza stands on the edge of a steep declivity, and contains about 150 houses. The surrounding views have a pecu¬ liarly wild aud irregular magnificence. It was in the plain below that Lord By¬ ron was nearly lost in a thunder-storm. Strangers may lodge at the convent, but the caloyers, now reduced to half-a- dozen, can offer nothing beyond bread and wine and hare walls. A small re¬ muneration will be thankfully accepted by them. From Zitza to Joannina is 12 miles. The only interesting object on the jour¬ ney is the lake of Lapsista, a shallow piece of water which derives a fine cha¬ racter from the precipitous front of Ml. Metzikeli, the ancient Tornarus, forming its eastern boundary. Joannina ,* the chief town of Epirus, and the residence of a Pasha, is most beautifully situated. A large lake spreads its waters along the base of the lofty mountain called Metzikeli, which forms the first ridge of Pin¬ dus, and rises 2,500 feet above the level of the sea. At its base lies a small island, and opposite to it a peninsula, crowned by the fortress and town, stretches forwards into the lake from the western shore. Joannina derives its importance from having been the - capi¬ tal of Ali Pasha, to whom it owed its * No Hellenic city is known to have existed on this site, though Leake supposes the Temple of Dodona to have stood here. The modem name (tol Xwdvviva., i. e. St. .Johnstown) first occurs in the annals of the Lower Empire. It is incor¬ rectly written Janina, or Yanina. * This is a mistake; the Kalamus is the Thyamis. Albania. route 32. —JOANNINA. 383 prosperity and its public edifices. It formerly contained 50,000 inhabitants (exclusive of a large garrison), 16 mosques, 8 Greek churches, 2 colleges, the Seraglio and palaces of Ali Pasha, and strong castles and fortifications. When Ali Pasha found himself no longer able to defend the city, during the siege by the Sultan’s army iu 1821-22, he or¬ dered it to be set on fire by his own sol¬ diers. Its present population does not amount to more than 20,000, and from being scattered over so extensive aspace, the town has a deserted appearance. The Pasha resides within the fortress, which is surrouuded by a moat, the access to which is through ruins. The space within is considerable, and the situation of the palace—an irregular pile at the j extremity of it—is striking. Some of j the houses have been rebuilt, though by no means in their former splen¬ dour. The fortress of Joannina offers an irregular outline of dismantled bat¬ tlements, crowned by the shapeless re¬ mains of the ruined Serai: behind it appear some of the loftier points of the Coulia and Litharitza. The Coulia was a fortress 5 stories high, with a palace of 2 stories above it. The thick masses of masonry, and pilasters and arches which support the structure, have suffered but little. The i palace above has disappeared. The Coulia communicated with the lake by j a small canal. Ali Pasha used to enter , with his boat, then get into a small carriage drawn by mules, which, rolling j up an inclined plane round a large stair- j case, landed him 100 feet above at the ! door of his Serai. The Litharitza , the i first fortress he constructed, is only a I few yards distant. When on the ap- j proach of the Sultan’s troops, the Alba¬ nians within, wishing to make their own peace with the Porte, closed the gates against their master, Ali retired to the small island on the lake, and here, while waiting for terms from the Sultan, he was treacherously murdered by the Turks. Thus terminated his extra¬ ordinary career on the 5th of Fe¬ bruary, 1822, in his 82d year. The marks of the bullets in the planks of the room where he fell are st 11 shown. It is in a small convent on the island. The head of the rebel Pasha was sent to Constantinople, and suspended, as usual, for some days over the gate of the Seraglio. It was afterwards buried under the high turban-stone, which, surrounded by the monuments of All’s sons, put to death soon after their father, is not the least remarkable among the sights of Constantinople. It stands near the Castle of the Seven Towers. The headless trunk of Ali was buried under a massive stone monument in his own citadel. Such have ever been the for¬ tunes of Oriental despots. There is but a step from their palaces to their tombs. The career of Ali Pasha exercised a great influence on the Greek Revolution. If his power had remained unimpaired, he would probably have crushed the insurrection ; and it was his rebellion against the Sultan which was seized by the Greeks as the most favourable op¬ portunity for them also to rise in arms. The plain of Joannina is 20 miles long from N. to S., and about 7 broad in its widest part. The lake is rather more than 6 miles in length, and ave¬ rages about 2 miles across. Its prin¬ cipal supplies are derived from copious springs, and its waters are carried off by Kutabotliru, or subterranean chan¬ nels, at its southern extremity. To the K., and directly in front of the citadel where it runs out into the lake, the huge barren mass of Mount Metzikeli, or Tomarus (as we have already stated), rises abruptly from the water; but rich pasture land extends on both sides of the city of Joannina to the distance of 10 miles, and probably is the Hellopia which Hesiod had in view when de¬ scribing the district of Dodona. Sub¬ ject as Epirus generally is to those atmospheric changes which procured for it Jupiter Tonans as Patron God in antiquity, there is no place in the whole province to be compared to Joannina itself, owing to the vicinity of Metzi¬ keli, for rapid transitions of temperature and frequency of thunder-storms. These I in the winter — severe in this upland plain, raised near 10C0 feet above the level of the sea—may often be witnessed accompanying a heavy fall of snow; while in summer their frequent recur¬ rence tempers the fervour of the heat. 384 ROUTE 33 . -PREVESA TO JOAN\IXA. Sect. IV. A British consul resides at Joannina, and receives his countrymen with cour¬ teous hospitality. The traveller must obtain from the Pasha at Joannina the passports necessary to facilitate his fur¬ ther travels in the Ottoman dominions. ROUTE 33 . PEEVESA TO JOANNINA BY NICOPOLIS AND SULI. Ho. Miles. Santa Maura to Prevesa . .0 10 Luro.0 12 Suli.0 22 Paramythia.0 12 Joannina ...... 12 0 The most usual as well as the most interesting excursion from Leucadia is to the ruins of Nicopolis, that “ City of Victory ” which was the trophy of that celebrated naval engagement fought off Actium, in b.c. 31, the result of which placed all the civilized world under one monarch and riveted its chains for ages, at the same time that it diffused peace, opulence, and security over ex¬ tensive countries from which they had long been banished. Prevesa is but 9 or 10 miles by sea from Fort Santa Maura, but that narrow space of water divides lands and nations more really apart than those separated by the Atlantic. No ancient city seems to have stood on the site of the modern town, which is on the northern shore of the strait—there only from 700 to 1000 yards across—which connects the Am- bracian Gulf with the Ionian sea. It contains a population of from 3000 to 4000, partly Mahommedans and partly Christians. There is a resident Eng¬ lish Vice-Consul. The British Consul for Albania lives sometimes at Prevesa, and sometimes at Joannina. On the fall of Venice in 1797, the French seized the Ionian Islands along with the ex-Venetian possessions on the neighbouring mainland ; when Vonitza, Prevesa, Parga, and Butrinto were gar¬ risoned by small detachments of French troops. The invasion of Egypt by Buonaparte in 1798 produced war be¬ tween the Porte and France; and Ali Pasha, in the name of the Sultan, con¬ quered all these places except Parga. The treaty of March 21, 13UQ, assured to their inhabitants the maintenance of the municipal privileges which they had enjoyed under the Venetians ; but this provision was utterly disregarded by Ali. He took Prevesa by storm in November, 1798. Instead of defending the decayed Venetian fortifications of the town, the French garrison of only a few hundred men marched out to meet their assailants on the plain of Nicopolis, where, among the ruins of Roman great¬ ness, they were overwhelmed by the impetuous onset of 5000 Albanians. The savage warriors entered the town pele-mele with its routed defenders, and their war-songs still record the tale of blood and rapine which ensued.' Lord Byron has preserved the sentiment of some of these songs in his spirited verses (Childe Harold, Canto II.):— Remember the moment when Prevesa fell, The shrieks of the conquered, the conquerors’ yell; The roofs that we fired, and the plunder we shared ; The wealthy we slaughtered, the lovely we spared. It is said that 300 of the Christian inhabitants of Prevesa, who had taken no part in the battle, fell in the indis¬ criminate massacre, and that their heads ( i.e . their scalps stuffed with straw, after the Turkish fashion) were sent to Con¬ stantinople, the moustaches having been shaved off, so that they might pass for the heads of French soldiers. Though hundreds of the Greek townspeople were forcibly carried off to cultivate Ali’s estates in other parts of his domi¬ nions—though the lands and houses of others were granted to his Albanians— and though mosques and seraglios have been erected—still Prevesa has not yet become entirely a Turkish town ; and the traveller may recognise some traces of that mixed Greek and Venetian cha¬ racter familiar in the Ionian Islands. The gardens and trees scattered among the houses and the magnificent wood of olives by which the town is surrounded give it a pleasing appearance. Its for¬ tifications, though repaired by Ali Pasha, Albania. ROUTE 33 . —PREVESA TO JOAXXIXA.-ACTIUM. 38.5 who used Nicopolis as his quarry, are now as ruinous as Turkish fortresses usually are. The streets are narrow, irregular, aud unpaved, and the houses are ehiedy built of wood. A regiment of regular infautry is always in garri¬ son here, and a few guns are mounted on the bastions towards the sea—to enfilade—along with those of the little fort at the end of the Actian promon¬ tory opposite, the entrance to the gulf— here about half a mile across. A bar of sand reduces the depth to 10 feet, which of course prevents large vessels from entering the harbour or sailing up the gulf. Punta —the Italian translation of Actium (a y.nov — i.e. the point of the long, low promontory which stretches northward from under the Acarnanian mountains)—as well as the little Fort built on its extremity, were retained by the Turks—as absolutely necessary for the safety of Prevesa. The Greek frontier line is drawm across this penin¬ sula, 2 miles S. of its northern extre¬ mity. Anactorium , the capital of this district, was situated in the bay now called St. Peter s (from a ruinous Church dedicated to that Saint), near Vouitza ; and Actium was nothing more than a Temple and Sanctuary of Apollo on the shore of the Anactorian territory. This fact appears from Thucydides (i. 29,). The sanctuary was of great antiquity, and Apollo derived from it the surnames of Actius and Actiacus. There was also an ancient festival named Actia, celebrated here in honour of the God. Whatever remains of the edifices used for the Actian games may have been preserved to modem times, were pro¬ bably embedded in the Venetian (now Turkish) Fortress on the pointof Punta, or Actium, just opposite Prevesa. Dion Cassius, a Greek author, whose long employment in the highest offices of the Roman state gave him the means of obtaining the best information on the subject, has left us a particular account of the battle of Actium, which it is very interesting to read on the very waters— “ where once was lost A world for woman—lovely, harmless thing,” For some weeks before the engagement, the two hostile armies lay encamped opposite to each other, Mark Antony at Greece. Actium, and Caesar on the ground where he afterwards erected Nicopolis. The fleet of Antony was stationed within the strait of Actium., in the present Bay of Prevesa ; that of Caesar in the Port of Gomaros, now Afytika, to the N. of Nicopolis, in the Ionian sea. During this period of inaction, proclama¬ tions were fulminated at their antagon¬ ists by each party respectively, Augustus making the same use as Virgil and Horace afterwards did, of his enemy’s Asiatic and Egyptian allies and sympa¬ thies—representing him as coming with uncouth and barbarous rites and deities against the old manners and the old gods of Rome, As often happens in similar cases, the Antonians were mo¬ rally defeated before their real over¬ throw,—disheartened with the shameful profligacy and effeminacy of their chief. At length Agrippa, a partisan of Caesar, having taken Leucas, and so threatening them from the rear, Antony and Cleo¬ patra determined to retire to Egypt. Caesar attacked their fleet as it ivas coming out of the strait, at the outer entrance of which the engagement took place which was to decide the fate of the known world. Caesar had 300 ships, good triremes, and Antony 560, many of them with towers like floating castles. Both leaders embarked from their respective camps large bodies of troops; the remainder of the two armies were spectators drawn up on the shore. The battle of Actium resembled on a grand scale one of those mimic exhibi¬ tions of naval warfare with which the magnificence of the later Roman em¬ perors sometimes astonished and divert¬ ed their subjects. Then the Liburnian galleys, that light cavalry of the seas, charged the huge phalanxes of Antonian ships ; and for several hours both par¬ ties plied each other with missiles with no decisive result. At length, the wind shifting at noon, and a favourable breeze springing up, Cleopatra, whose galley had been anchored in the rear of the combatants, hoisted the purple sails on her gilded deck (Flor. iv. 11) and threading rapidly the maze of battle, was soon followed by the infatuated Antony. The flight of their leaders thoroughly disheartened the Antonians; ROUTE 33. —PREVESA TO JOANNINA.-NICOPOLIS. Sect. IV. 386 Agrippa fell on their flank with his detachment from Leucas; and in front the Csesarians closed with them, pouring fire on the floating castles of the enemy from their engines of war, and from javelins thrown by the hand. The un¬ wieldy size of the vessels of Antony now contributed to their own destruc¬ tion :—all was soon in inextricable con¬ fusion—heightened by the various dia¬ lects and various arms of the nations and tribes ranged under his standard “ Quam varise linguis, habitu tam vestis et armis.” The Antonians perished in vast num¬ bers in the sea, while endeavouring to escape, in the flames, or by the arms of the conquerors. The barbarous cym¬ bals and trumpets (Virg. 2En. viii. 696), used by the Egyptians in the mystic rites of Isis, gradually died away over the waters, as Cleopatra and her lover fled. After the battle of Actium, Augustus established, as the most useful and durable trophies of his victory, two Roman settlements at Nicopolis and Patrae, granting lands in their vicinity to his veterans, endowing the new-built cities with the valuable privileges of Eoman colonies, and augmenting their importance at the expense of the terri¬ tory and population of all the townships in the neighbourhood. Nicopolis has again become the desert place which it was 2000 years ago, for the changes which have come to pass in navigation and ship-building since that age have rendered the situation unadapted to the commerce of the present day ; but Patrae, the most flourishing town in the Pelo¬ ponnesus, still justifies the choice of Augustus. Besides founding Nicopolis, Caesar enlarged and beautified the temple of the Actian Apollo, and promoted and endowed the Actian games long cele¬ brated there, founding contests of music, gymnastics, horse-racing, &c., _ and raising them to be equal in dignity to the former national games of Greece. St. Paul spent a whiter at Nicopolis (Titus iii. 2), and the ruins called the Metropolis may possibly mark the site of the Church built by the congregation which the Apostle formed. The subse¬ quent decline of Paganism, by abo¬ lishing the festival of Apollo, probably struck the first blow at the prosperity of Nicopolis, for, after the time of Augustus, the games were celebrated in that city, and not at Actium. The ravages of pirates and of invading bar¬ barians accelerated its ruin. It was repaired during the interval of calm under Justinian, and remained a Bishop’s see until the tenth century, when Joan- nina succeeded it as the seat of ecclesi¬ astical authority in the south of Epirus. During the Byzantine empire, ecclesi¬ astical history furnishes the best indi¬ cation of the relative importance of | cities. When the imperial name was no longer a protection to the distant sub¬ jects of the empire, it was natural that Ambracia and other ancient sites near the Gulf, which Nicopolis had depopu¬ lated under the first emperors of Rome, should again become preferable from the same motives of security which had caused them to be occupied by the early Greeks. The new town of Prevesa, built nearer the sea. and in a more fertile part of the plain, then absorbed, probably, all the remaining inhabitants of the old city, and doubtless, as in other similar cases, was chiefly con¬ structed out of its ruins. The ruins of Nicopolis are 3 miles to the N. of Prevesa. Very charming is the ride thither through the olive-grove which stretches across the peninsula at the extremity of which Prevesa is built. The planting of olive-trees was encou¬ raged by the Venetians in their conti¬ nental as well as in their insular pos¬ sessions. On emerging from the wood, the traveller finds himself on a grassy isthmus, resembling in its undulations and general aspect many portions of the j Roman Campagna. The vast masses of crumbling ruins spread around recall also those of the Campagna, both in their date and material, which is chiefly Roman brick. The breadth of 60 fur¬ longs, which Strabo ascribes to the isthmus on which Nicopolis stands, is J incorrect: the broadest part of the site from the shore of the Ambracian Gulf to that of the Ionian sea not being more than 3 English miles; and nearly half the breadth of the isthmus is occupied on the eastern side by a lagoon, called Albania. ROUTE 33. -PREVESA TO JOANNINA.—XICOPOLIS. 337 Mdzoma , separated from the Ambracian Gulf only by a narrow thread of land, which is a mile long, and has openings, where the fish are caught in great numbers, as they enter the lagoon in the winter, and quit it in the summer. The whole surface of the narrowest part of the isthmus is covered with re¬ mains of ancient tombs, baths, walls. &c.; but the most remarkable detached ruins are those of the Aqueduct —of the Palace—of the Castle —of the Stadium — and of the two Theatres. The Aqueduct. —Though there are several copious sources on the isthmus which would seem to have been suffi¬ cient, by the aid cf wells, for the supply of the city ; still here, as at Corinth, another Homan colony, where local springs are even more abundant, the colonists were not satisfied with their local supply, either because it lay too low, or because it did not suit their taste. They therefore constructed an aqueduct from the N., 30 miles in length. Large remains of it are met with in different parts of the S. of Epirus, spanning broad valleys and streams, and joining hill to hill. Like the aqueducts of the Campagna, or that magnificent Roman work near Nismes, now called the Pont du Gard. it is a monument of a people’s greatness, a standard by which to measure their power and intellect. The Palace. —Near the southern ex¬ tremity of the aqueduct, are the ruins of a building which seems to have been a palace. It contains numerous apart¬ ments with many niches in the walls for statues, and some remains of a stone pavement. It is beautifully overgrown with shrubs and wild flowers. The Castle. —The Paleokastron, or Castle, is an extensive inclosure of irre¬ gular form, not far from the shore of the Gulf. On the western side the walls are strongest and most perfect, and are flanked with towers. Here too is the principal gate. A cross over a smaller gate is probably of the age of Justinian, who, as we learn from Procopius (de iEdif. iv. 1), repaired Nicopolis. 'The Stadium.—The Stadium of Nico¬ polis was about the same size as that of Athens, i.e. about 600 feet long. Though its shape and dimensions can be accu¬ rately traced, it is new merely a mass of ruins. The Theatres. —Of the two Theatres, the smaller is near the so-called Palace ; — the larger is on the side of the grassy hill which rises to the height of 500 feet above the Stadium. This larger Theatre, from its good preservation, size, and elevation above the ojker ruins, is a very* conspicuous object from all parts of the site of the ancient city and from the surrounding plain. It is visible too both from the Ionian Sea and from the Ambracian Gulf. It is partly excavated in the side of the hill; but all the superstructure is of Roman bricks, faced with stone. Huge masses have rolled down in different directions, still held together by the excellence of the mortar. The stone seats have all been removed, still it is one of the best preserved Roman theatres in existence, perhaps not excelled either in preserva¬ tion or in the beauty of the prospect it commands, except by that at Tauro- menium under Mount ./Etna. Here also a large part of the proscenium and its appurtenances is still standing. In this theatre and in the stadium just below it, the Actian games were probably cele¬ brated. From the upper walls of the theatre a glorious panorama is visible: the Gulf of Ambracia—the mountains of iEtolia and Acarnania, and the port and cliffs of Leucadia—with the Ionian Sea as far N. as Paxo. Immediately below is the isthmus with its ruins, and beyond the minarets of Prevesa rising from among gardens and olive-groves. It is clear from the historian (Dion Cass. 1. 12) that the tent of Augustus must have been pitched on the hill where this theatre now stands, and that his camp was on the isthmus below. So that during the pause of some weeks, while the hostile armies and fleets were drawn up opposite each other, the future master of the world had before his eyes, like Xerxes at Salamis, his own and his rival’s powers:— “ Ships in thousands lay helow, And men in nations.” The immortal features of nature in the magnificent panorama on which Au¬ gustus gazed still remain as they were s 2 388 ROUTE 34. -PREVESA TO JO ANNINA. Sect. IY. on the morning of Actium—but the vast fleets and armies have passed away, as well as the thronging crowds of the vast “ City of Victory” which rose as the trophy of that eventful day. Among such scenes we forget, insen¬ sibly, the selfish pursuits of ordinary life;—a solemn stillness occupies the mind, and our intellectual nature is im- pt^ved; for “ whatever makes the past, the distant, or the future predominate over the present, advances us in the dignity of thinking beings.” From Nicopolis to Luro the country is well wooded and cultivated, and broken by low hills. Luro, 12 miles. Near the town flows the river Luro, which rises in the moun¬ tains, and falls into the gulf of Arta. This river is the ancient Charadrns. A few miles W. of Luro, near Kamarina, are the ruins of Cassope, and the hill of Zalongo, once a stronghold of the Suliots. From Luro the road lies through a valley, and arrives at the river Suli (Acheron), running S.W., which 2 miles farther makes a sudden bend to the N., and enters by a narrow pass the magnificent region of Suli. Along the whole route, from the spot where we arrive at the banks of the Acheron to the plains of Paramythia, the scenery is grand, bold, and singular in the extreme. From one spot the course of the Acheron may be traced for 6 or 7 miles between mountains, some of them upwards of 3000 feet high, their precipitous sides rising from the edge of the water. The road passes some hundred feet above the stream. The Castle of Suli is placed on an insulated hill, near the ruined village of Kako-Suli, nearly 1000 feet above the river Acheron. The mountain on which the fortresses of Suli have been erected is of a singular semilunar form, terminating in so narrow a ridge as barely to admit of a path from one fortress to the other. The prodigies of valour displayed by the Suliotes in the defence of their liberty, the vigorous resistance they offered during ten years to the powei’ful Ali, and afterwards to the whole Ottoman army, and the im¬ portant part they took in the late Greek war, are well known, and have created a general feeling of interest and admi¬ ration in their favour, which will induce the traveller to deviate from the most direct route in order to visit the scenes of the exploits of Mark Botzaris and Samuel the Caloyer. (Route 35.) A steep descent from the castle leads to the junction of another torrent with the Acheron. Here the valley of Pa¬ ramythia opens to the view. At Gift;/, where the road crosses the Acheron, have been found some remains of an¬ cient columns. Hence to Paramythia is five hours’ journey along the banks of the Cocytus. Paramythia, 12 miles from Suli. situ¬ ated at the upper extremity of the Ache- rusian plain. The town rises up the ascent of the mountain. The old castle stands on a projecting mass of rock. This is the seat of a Greek bishopric. In two or three places, within a few miles of Paramythia, are the remains of ancient towns. The name of Para¬ mythia (n apafjMdla, i. e. Consolation) was probably suggested by the beauty and salubrity of the situation. Leaving Paramythia, the road lies through a pass to the N.E. of the city, where the troops of Ali Pasha had an action with the people of Paramythia. It descends to the Kalamas, and pro¬ ceeds towards the Oli/tzika range to Dramisius, a village above the plain on the E. side of the mountain: near it are the ruins of Pass-iron. (Route 35.) They consist of a theatre, a small temple, and some walls. Near the city is a curious subterranean vault, supported by pillars. Some of the stones are nearly as large as those at Mycenae. This valley is divided by a low chain of hills from the plain ot Joannina, 12 hours from Paramythia. ROUTE 34. PREVESA TO JOANNINA, BY ARTA. Hours. Prevesa to Salagora by sea . 3 or 4 Arta. 3 Joannina. 12 Salayora, a hamlet on a low hill on the N. shore of the gulf, is the port of Arta. Horses may be procured here to ride to Arta across the plain. Albania. ROUTE 35. -JOANNINA TO PARGA. 389 Arta stands on the site of the ancient Ambracia, near the Aracthus. The approach to the town is beautiful ; there is a great deal of wood in its vicinity, and it is surrounded by gardens, orange- groves, and vineyards. Before reaching the town we cross a picturesque bridge, of very remarkable construction, over the Aracthus. It is to be ascribed to one of the Byzantine emperors. The view of a palace, mosques, churches, some good houses and shops, excite ex¬ pectations which on entering the town are disappointed. The population does not now exceed 7000. The neighbour¬ hood of Arta is subject to malaria. The chief object of interest here is the ruiued fortress. It stands on the foundation walls of the ancient citadel, which are of the Cyclopean order. Ambracia, originally a Corinthian colony, became afterwards the capital of Pyrrhus. On his coins Ceres appears holding ears of corn in her right hand. Ancient money often presents to the eye the principal characteristics of the soil and country to which it belonged, in¬ spiring and indicating a patriotism, which thus became, as it were, a part of the national currency. The inhabitants of Ambracia were removed by Augustus to Nicopolis, but it was re-occupied under the Byzantine empire, and again became a place of importance. The modern name of Arta is evidently a corruption of the Arac¬ thus, on which it stood; and we find this name in the Byzantine writers so early as the 11th century. The ruined Byzantine Church of the Virgin of Consolation ('H n cctayl'z. XVa.Gny't>i r ritnrn) is well worthy of a visit; as also the Metropolis or palace of the Greek Metro¬ politan Bishop, which hangs over the banks of the river. The remains of the walls of Ambracia confirm the state¬ ments of the ancient writers respecting their strength. They were built of immense quadrangular blocks of stone, some of which measure 18 feet by 5. Like theancient city, the modern Arta has given its name to the neighbouring gulf. Between Arta and Joannina is a lar khan at Pendepigudia ( nviriTvyaoiu.) Fire Wells, about half-way between t two cities. Thence to Joannina t route is interesting, and the view on approaching the town is highly pictu¬ resque. ROUTE 35. JOANNINA TO PARGA, BY DRAMISIUS AND SULI. 3 days' journey. It is 4 hours' ride in a S.W. direction from Joannina to Dramisius, near which village is the best-preserved theatre in all Greece, besides other Hellenic remains. This theatre is built on the slope of a low hill in a retired and soli¬ tary valley, below the N. side of Mt. Olytzika. It is not so perfect as the Theatre of Ta»rmina in Sicily, as no part of the proscenium is now standing; but, in Greece, the only other relic of antiquity of the same kind which at all approaches it in preservation is the Theatre at the Hieron or Sanctuary of Epidaurus (Section II., Route 16). The stone seats still remain, supported by huge masses of Hellenic masonry. Close by are the remains of one or two temples, and of a wall which inclosed them, the slightness of which proves that it was merely the peribolus of the Sanctuary. The situation, moreover, is neither strong, commanding, nor well watered—the usual characteristics of the sites of Hellenic towns. These facts, combined with there being no vestiges of an ancient city in the neigh¬ bourhood, prove that the remains at Dramisius are those of a national sanctuary of the Molossians, doubtless of Passaron, where their kings were in- I augurated. Such solitary sanctuaries, with a theatre and place for political | assemblies adjoining, are often found in Greece; fur instance, at Olympia and ; at the Isthmus of Corinth. The reli¬ gion of Hellas well knew how to avail itself of two accompaniments most con- ' ducive to a solemn and devotional ! effect—silence and solitude. From Dramisius it is about 10 hours I to the hamlet of Eomanates, situated i under the eastern slope of the moun- j tains of Suli. The path is in many I places very difficult and even dan- I gerous. The valleys on both sides 390 ROUTE 35. -JOANMNA TO PARGA.-SULI. Sect. IV. of the great ridge of Suli belonged to the Suliote confederacy in the days of its greatest strength. Through various openings to the south and west, glimpses are occasionally caught to the S. of the beautiful Ambraciau Gulf, and to the W. of the Ionian sea, dotted with Corfu and Paxo. From Romanates it is a toilsome ride of 5 or 6 hours to the Castle of Suli. The path ascends the mountain by a series of difficult zigzags. We pass the crumbling remains of many breast¬ works of loose stones erected by the Suliotes, who contested this ground inch by inch, during several years, against Ali Pasha, performing deeds of heroism worthy of the best days of Greece. They were a tribe of Christian Epirots, mustering about 4000 fighting men, nominally subjects of the Sultan, but as really independent of the supreme government, until reduced in 1303, as were the Scotch Highlanders before 1745. The mutual jealousies of the chieftains, and the desertion of some of their number, hastened the ruin of the confederacy more than all the armies which the Mahommedans brought against them during a struggle of more than ten years. The stories told of their speed in running over mountains impassable to most men ; of their skill as marksmen ; of their keenness of sight, in which they excelled all other Alba¬ nians, who themselves are surpassed only by the Arabs of the desert; of their vigilance and sagacity ; of their ability in planning, and activity in exe¬ cuting the most refined stratagems of their desultory warfare; of their powers of voice, remarkable even among the (lobv ayxQo'i mountaineers of Greece, and by which they were enabled to exchange signals at immense distances ; in short, their prodigies of strength, skill, and valour, against overwhelming odds, would in some instances exceed belief, if they had not been so univer¬ sally attested by their enemies. Mr. Bowen remarks that the Suliote con¬ federacy “ in some points resembled the united Forest Cantons of Switzer¬ land, or the Achaean League, which, just before the Roman Conquest, revived a faint image of the ancient glory of Hellas,—‘ the pale Martinmas summer of her closing year.’ Mark Botzaris, and many of his comrades in arms, are not unworthy to stand in the same rank with Tell and Philopcemen.” After a weary scramble, the path reaches the summit of the Suliot ridge, here about 3000 feet above the sea, and commanding in clear weather magni¬ ficent prospects in every direction. The Castle of Suli stands on an isolated rock full 1000 feet below the summit of the ridge ; and beyond the Acheron rushes through a deep, dark chasm into the Acherusian plain, crossing which in a meandering course it empties itself into the Ionian Sea at the Sweet Harbour (TXvxb; Ai/j.riv), now called by the sailors of the Levant (probably from a beacon or light-house having at one period stood there) Port Phanari. The water of this port is still sweet from the influx of the river. The anchorage is not very safe, as it is exposed to the west¬ erly winds. A tremendously steep path brings the traveller from the top of the moun¬ tain to the bottom of the Castle rock. Here are the ruined hamlets of Kiapha and Avariko ; and about a rifle-shot to the N., on an upland lawn, are the ruins of the main village of Suli, called Kako-Suli, like the “ evil and unhappy Ilium” (K axolxios) of Homer ( Od. xix. 260, 597). The homesteads of the Suliots are now silent and dismantled. The walls of their houses are still partly standing; the boughs of their fig-trees are still hanging over the doors; their hearths are still black with the smoke of former fires; crumbling stairs still point the way to fallen chambers. But no one now dwells in the houses, or prunes the fig-trees, or sits by the hearths, or climbs the stairs. The Suliots are scattered far and wide, but their sufferings and their heroism have surrounded their country with the interest of a republic of ancient Greece. The two isolated rocks which rise precipitately from the ravine of the Acheron are called respectively Trypa and Kughni. These were the chief strongholds of the Suliotes, but the ruinous forts (known as the Castle of Suli) now crowning their summits, were Albania. route 35. —joanxixa to parga.—the acheron. 391 erected by Ali Pasha after their capture at the beginning of the present century. A small Turkish garrison is stationed here. The commandant is usually very civil to strangers, and will allow them to pass the night within the walls. The incursions of the Suliotes over the neighbouring country reached their height towards the close of the 18th century, when Ali Pasha determined finally to root them out, which lie finally accomplished with great loss, and after a long siege of the principal strongholds of Suli. When all further defence had become hopeless, a number of the Suliotes broke through the lines of the enemy, like the Platmans in the Peloponnesian war, and escaped to the Ionian Islands. Many of them were afterwards enlisted into the Greek regiments raised by the English during the war, but disbanded in 1814. At the outbreak of the insurrection in 1821, the Suliotes mostly went to Greece, where Mark Botzaris and others of their tribe became leaders in the war of independence, and so inflicted far greater injuries on the Turks than if they had remained entrenched on their native mountains. The survivors and their descendants are all citizens of the new Greek state. “ A dead silence, broken only by the rushing of the Acheron, now reigns in these gloomy gorges, which so long re¬ echoed the roar of battle and the cries of the combatants, those most thrilling of all sounds, the shrieks of mortal rage, and fear, and anguish.”— Bowen. The Mahommedans showed as much perseverance in the attack as the Chris¬ tians in the defence, climbing up the sides of the ravines, and pushing their breastworks to within a few yards of the lines of the besieged. The Suliote women proved to be true “ Jaels and wives of IXeber,” continually exposing themselves to the fire of the enemy, supplying the men with water, ammu¬ nition, and provisions, and, when not otherwise employed, discharging volleys of abuse against the infidels. The hero of the closing scene of the defence was Samuel the Caloyer, a monk surnamed “The Last Judgment” (H nXivraU Ke'uns), and who had been one of the bravest leaders of the Suliots during the war. When the ten years death struggle was over, he retired along with the sick, the wounded, the aged, and those who had resolved to die by the graves of their fathers, to the tower which had been used as a powder-magazine. When their assail¬ ants drew near, they set fire to a train, prepared beforehand for this last ex¬ tremity', and thus involved the foremost of the" infidels in their own destruc¬ tion. “ Another tale of horror yet re¬ mains to be told. A number of the Suliot women had taken refuge on the summit of a rock not far from the last stronghold of their kinsmen. When all was over, and the enemy was scaling the crags to seize them, it is related that they dashed their infant children over the brow of the clilf, and then joining their hands, and chanting the songs of their own dear mountains, they formed a circling dance, at each recurring round of which an heroic victim hurled herself over the brink of the precipice into the dark gulf be¬ neath. When the foe had reached the summit his prey was beyond his grasp. This is truly, in the words of Aristo¬ phanes, the cliff of Acheron dripping with blood (A%££oW ids tTKiftiXos alftciro- VTnyrii).” — Frogs, 471. From the Castle of Suli to Parga it is a journey of 10 hours, or even more, from the difficulty of the path. Tra¬ vellers must dismount in descending the gorge of the Acheron, and let the horses scramble over the slippery ledges of rock, urged on by the cries of their owners. The path lies at one time in the bed of the foaming and roaring torrent ; afterwards it hangs on the face of the cliff 500 or 600 feet above the river, and looks as if Suspended in air. This is, perhaps, darker and deeper than any other glen in Greece ; “ on either side rise per¬ pendicular rocks, in the midst of which are little intervals of scanty soil, bear¬ ing holly, ilices, and other shrubs, and which admit occasionally a view of the higher summits of the two mountains covered with oaks, and at the summit of all, with pines. Here the road is | passable only on foot, by a perilous 392 ROUTE 35. -PARGA. ledge along the side of the mountain ; the river in the pass is deep and rapid, and is seen at the bottom falling in many places over the rocks, though at too great a distance to be heard, and in most places inaccessible to any but the foot of a goat or a Suliote.”— Leake. After fording the Acheron just where it issues forth on the marshy plain, the old Pains Acherusia, the traveller stands at length amid the ruins of the village of Glyky {VXvkv), which still preserves the ancient appellation of the Sweet Harbour at the mouth of the river. The old church of Glyky stands on the site of an ancient temple, pro¬ bably the oracular shrine where the spirits of the dead were consulted. Glyky was once the seat of the Bishop of this district, and affords an instance of the manner in which the names of classical history have often been trans¬ ferred to ecclesiastical localities. Down to the time of Ali Pasha, there was almost constant war among the villages and clans of this part of Epirus—as once in the Highlands of Scotland—-the Suliotes taking either or both sides, as they were best paid and fed ; the poorer warriors disregarding the treaties made by their chieftains, and descending from their starving mountains to sell their blood to the highest bidder. In winter there is excellent wood¬ cock, snipe, and wild-fowl shooting on the Acherusian plain, and yachts from Corfu and Paxo frequently visit Port Phanari for this object. There is a small hamlet on the beach, where guides can be procured to the favourite shoot¬ ing-grounds. In summer, the plain produces rice, Indian corn, flax, and wheat, wherever it is cultivated. The view of the castle-rock of Suli, through the gorge of the Acheron, backed by the high, barren mountains behind, is very striking. The river which flows from the N. and joins the Acheron about 3 miles from the sea, is the an¬ cient Cocytus (now called Vuv6). Here then we have two of the rivers of the classical Hades. Pausanias expresses his belief that Homer drew his descrip¬ tion of the Lower world from this part of Epirus. The character of the Homeric Inferno, as Dr. Wordsworth j Sect. IV. remarks, is very simple. Two rivers and a few rocks and trees form all its scenery. Very different became in after times the representatives of the same regions, when the gloomy realms of Pluto were dressed up with all the pomp of the palace of the Caesars. Quarters for the night may be found in the village on the beach at Port Phanari, or in one of the hamlets on the western side of the Acherusian plain, built on the slope of the low ridge of hills which here fringe the Ionian Sea. It is 5 hours’ further riding over these hills from the edge of the plain to Parga. —From the brow of the ridge above there is a delightful view of the town, and the little territory surround¬ ing it, once the property of its Christian inhabitants. This, like the island of Corfu, is one great grove of olives, interspersed with churches and villas now mostly in ruins. The crumbling walls of a monastery form a picturesque object on a promontory N. of the town. Winding down through the olives to the beach, the traveller gains another beautiful view. On a steep rock pro¬ jecting into the Ionian sea stands the old Venetian Castle of Parga, on which the blood-red flag of the Crescent re¬ placed in 1819 the Cross of-St. George, and where Turkish soldiers now keep garrison in the room of an English detachment. The approach to the Castle-gate and the slopes around are clustered with houses, once the resi¬ dence of the chief families of Parga, but now mostly in ruins. Encircling the town are gardens of figs, oranges, and lemons, running wild from neglect. The little port is formed by a rocky islet, with a chapel upon it. Several Mahommedan families have come to reside here since 1819, and a mosque has been built for their use, just outside the gate of the Castle. Permission is generally given by the Commandant to enter the fortress. It is now entirely dilapidated, and the churches and houses in the interior are in ruins. There are a few Venetian cannon, and one or two with the English broad- arrow upon them, left by our troops when they evacuated the place. Good night-quarters can he obtained Albania. ROUTE 35. -PARGA. 393 in Parga, at the house of one of the Christian families. Many of the re¬ maining inhabitants of Parga still give striking signs of the personal beauty and classical features for which their countrymen were famous ; for “ By Suii's rock, and Parga's shore, Exist the remnants of a race, Such as the Dorian mothers bore; And here perchance some seed is sown The Heraclidan blood might own.” The history of Parga dates from the 14th century, for it does not appear cer¬ tain that any ancient town stood upon this site. When the Venetians became possessed of Corfu, about a.d. 1386, the inhabitants of this little sea - port of Epirus sought and procured the protec¬ tion of the republic, when their castle was fortified and garrisoned like Bu- trinto, Prevesa, and Vonitza, the other Venetian dependencies on the mainland; and their government was assimilated to that of the Seven Islands. On the fall of Venice in 1797, all these places were occupied by French troops, which were, however, after an occupation of less than 2 years, expelled from the islands by a combined Russian and Turkish squadron; while Ali Pasha, by land, made himself master, in the name of the Sultan, of Butrinto, Prevesa, and Vonitza, leaving Parga unassailed. He seems to have shrunk from encounter¬ ing the desperate resistance which the Parguinotes were prepared to have offered, or to have deemed their reduc¬ tion, like that of their neighbours of Suli, likely to cost more than it was worth. On March 21, 1800, a treaty between Russia and the Porte created the Ionian Islands into the Septinsular Republic; stipulating at the same time that the ci-devant Venetian possessions on the mainland should be subject to the Sultan, but should retain their mu¬ nicipal institutions and the free exercise of their religion. As to Prevesa, Bu¬ trinto, and Vonitza, no further question has ever been raised; but when, in 1807, the treaty of Tilsit gave the Ionian Islands to Napoleon, the Parguinotes solicited and obtained a smali French garrison. In the beginning of 1814 they opened a correspondence with the English squadron then blockading Corfu; and, with the help of an armed party of English secretly admitted at night, they overpowered the French soldiers; and the British flag replaced the tricouleur on their walls. They do not appear to have made any express stipulation with the British officers, under whose protection they thus placed themselves; but doubtless they under¬ stood that their town would continue to follow the fortunes of the Ionian Islands. However, the Treaty of Paris in 1815, by which the Seven Islands were placed under British protection, made no men¬ tion of the ex-Venetian possessions on the mainland, and seems tacitly to imply that they were to abide by the fate prescribed for them by the Conven¬ tion of March 21, 1800. Or it is pos¬ sible that the very existence of Parga, and its population of 4000 or 5000, may have been entirely forgotten by the statesmen who were parcelling out afresh the map of Europe. However this may have been, the Porte claimed the sur¬ render of Parga on the faith of the ex¬ isting treaties; and in 1819 the Pargui¬ notes were commanded either to submit to the Turks or to quit their country, an asylum being offered to them in the Ionian Islands, and the Lord High Com¬ missioner (Sir Thomas Maitland) pro¬ curing for them the sum of about 150,000 1. as compensation for their property in houses, lands, &c. The Parguinotes chose the latter alter¬ native; for they knew that, though nominally ceded to the Sultan, they would be really given over to Ali Pasha, who was their bitter enemy, both from their being the last Christians in Epirus who had successfully resisted his power, and because they had assisted the Suliots in their wars with him. The policy of the British government and its agents in the surrender of Parga has been severely censured both in England and abroad ; — those who wish to inform themselves thoroughly on the subject must have recourse to the Parliamentary Papers published at the time. What¬ ever may have been the diplomatic ne¬ cessity or justice of the cession, it cannot be denied that it roused the indignation of the Christians throughout the Levant, and that no Englishman can visit the s 3 394 ROUTE 36. -JO ANNIN A TO BERAT. Sect. IV. ruined houses and deserted gardens of this beautiful spot -without a feeling of regret that his country should have, however unavoidably, been concerned in their abandonment to the Mahom- medans. The principal families of Parga all emigrated in 1819 to the neighbouring islands or to Greece ; but some of their members have now re¬ turned, and have resumed, as subjects and tenants of the Turks, the cultiva¬ tion of their former property. At Parga a boat may be hired to con¬ vey the traveller to Paxo or to Corfu ; or a short day’s ride will take him to Gomenitza, a village on the shores of the channel of Corfu, and whence the pas¬ sage will be much shorter. The road leads past the Mahommedan town of Margariti, and through a fine valley. Sayada, the usual landing-place from Corfu, and nearly opposite the citadel, is a few hours N. of Gomenitza. (Route 31.) Or the traveller may reach Joannina in 2 long days from Parga, passing by Margariti and Para- mythia, and leaving Suli on the right. Finally, in 2 days from Parga he may reach Prevesa, cross from thence to Santa Maura, and so proceed to Corfu by the steamer which keeps up com¬ munication between the Ionian Islands. ROUTE 36. JOANNINA, BY APOLLONIA, TO BERAT. oannina to— Hours. Miles. Zitza. 4 12 Delvinaki .... n Argyro Kastro. 10 Gardiki ..... 3 Stepetzi. 3 Tepeleni. 3 16 Lundschi .... 4f Karvunari .... 5 Gradista . . . . . 2 Fragola ..... Monastery of Pollina 44 14 (Apollonia) . . . Berat—1 day’s journey. 14 44 7 ??^ 7-1 see Route 32. j Delvinaki j We descend to the direct route which we left in coming to Delvinaki, along a deep chasm, through which a stream runs to join another coming from Nemertzka. The two, united, flow into the river of Argyro Kastro. Five miles from Delvinaki is the khan of Xerovaltd. Ascending a low ridge beyond this place, we come in sight of the great plain or vale of Deropoli, forming a landscape of the most magnificent character. We con¬ tinue our route to the village of Pa lea Episeope, on the declivity of the moun¬ tains which form the eastern boundary of the plain. There is a picturesque old Greek church here, which is stated in an inscription on it to have been founded by Manuel Comnenos. From his point the view is splendid. The vale of Deropoli, or Argyro Kastro, is luxuriantly fertile in every part, and the industry of a numerous population has been exerted to bring it into a high state of cultivation. The products are chiefly corn, maize, tobacco, and rice Much grain is carried down to the coast for export. The villages and towns are numerous, and next to Argyro Kastro the most con¬ siderable is Libochovo. It is strikingly situated on the ascent of the mountains, at the entrance of a great break in them, through which is seen the western front of the mountains of Nemertzka. Argyro Kastro, T-j, hours, is one of the largest and most important towns in Albania. It is very singularly placed on the declivity of the mountains on the W. side of the valley, at a place where some deep ravines approach each other. The town consists of several distinct portions; groupes of houses standing on separate eminences, or covering the summits of the narrow ridges which divide the ravines. It contains above 2000 Albanian and 200 Greek families. The governor occupies an old and ruinous serai, and is sur¬ rounded with a train of armed retainers. The situation of Argyro Kastro, on so unequal a surface, gives it an appear¬ ance of great magnificence The castle stands on the central ridge, and is a building of considerable extent. It was built by Ali Pasha on the site of the old castle, and was commenced when he obtained possession of the place in 1812. This conquest was of great importance Albania. ROUTE 36. —JOANNES'A TO BERAT. 395 to Ali Pasha; but his war with Ibrahim Pasha delayed this event till 1812, when he obtained possession of this district and that of Delvino, without much bloodshed. Previous to his attack on Argyro Kastro he had contrived to in¬ veigle away the bravest of its inha¬ bitants, in consequence of which the city surrendered after a short contest. *• The general appearance of Argyro Kastro is most imposing; but the glittering triangular area of houses, which from afar appears as one great pyramid of dwellings against the moun¬ tain side, is broken up on a nearer ap¬ proach into three divisions. The whole town is built on three distinct ridges or spurs of rock, springing from the hill at a considerable height, and widening, separated by deep ravines or channels of torrents, as they stretch out into the plain. The town stands mainly on the face or edge of these narrow spurs, but many buildings are scattered most pic¬ turesquely down their sides, mingled, as is the wont in Albanian towns, with fine trees, while the centre and highest ridge of rock, isolated from the parent moun¬ tain, and connected with it only by an aqueduct, is crowned by what forms the most striking feature of the place, a black ruined castle, that extends along its whole summit, and proudly towers even in decay over the scattered vassal- houses below.”— Lear. The direct road to Tepeleni is through the valley of the Deropoli, and it is only 7 hours from Argyro Kastro by this way; but a circuitous route may be taken by Gardiki, the unfortunate town destroyed by Ali in the spring of 1812. Gardiki, about 3 hours from Argyro Kastro, was a large town, situated on the steep acclivity of a double conical hill, with high mountains in the imme¬ diate back-ground, the castle crowning the summit of the hill. In the early part of Ali Pasha's life, when he relied chiefly on the zeal and resolution of Ids mother, the Gardiki otes became his enemies, and endeavoured to dispossess him of his small territory ; and, on one occasion, when he was passing the night in that part of the country with his mother and sister, they laid a plot for taking away his life. Ali with difficulty escaped; but his mother and sister were carried prisoners to Gardiki, where, having been exposed to various outrages, they were, after 30 days, sent ignorni- niously away. His mother after this never ceased to urge him to revenge himself on the Gardikiotes, and their continued opposition to his growing power confirmed his resolves. lie was unable to accomplish his designs till the beginning of 1812, when he attacked the town, having previously contrived, by delusive means, to retain all the Gardi¬ kiotes within its walls. The Albanian officers, perhaps unwilling to take a city in the defence of which the Porte had directly interested itself, delayed their operations. But at length Athanasius Bia, an able officer of Ali, came for¬ ward and offered, with a certain num¬ ber of Albanians, to take the town by storm, though its situation rendered this an undertaking of great difficulty. A single night put Gardiki into Ali’s hands, after an interval of more than 40 years from the commission of the original offence. The inhabitants, 5000 or 6000 in number, were first dis¬ tributed into different towns, while 36 of the Beys were sent to Joannina. On the 15th of March, 1812, 800 Gardi¬ kiotes were brought to the area of a Khan, near Argyro Kastro; a few of these were allowed to depart, and sent with the rest of their countrymen into slavery in other parts of Albania. The rest were tied together, and fired upon by the soldiers, till not one remained alive. On the same day, the 36 Beys shared the same fate at Joannina. From Gardiki we return down the river to the place where it forms its junction with the Deropoli, at which point there is the ruin of a Roman for¬ tress. Near it is the village of Neo- chori. Stepetzi, a small village, near the place where the river quits the broad valley of Argyro Kastro to enter the more contracted defiles through which it flows north to join the Viosa neat Tepeleni. The mountains contracting the val¬ ley are a continuation of those which bounded it. Several towns and vil- 396 ROUTE 36. —TEPELENI.—A LI PASHA. Sect. IY. lages appear on their declivity. The approach to Tepeleni on this side is noble. A mile or two to the south of the town is the confluence of the Dero- poli and Viosa (Aous), forming a river not less than 250 yards in width. The sun had sunk behind vast Tomerit, And Laos wide and fierce came roaring by, The shades of wonted night were gathering yet, When, down the steep banks winding warily, Childe Harold saw, like meteors in the sky. The glittering minarets of Tepelen, Whose walls o’erlook the stream ; and draw¬ ing nigh, He heard the busy hum of warrior-men Swelling the breeze that sigh'd along the length¬ ening glen. He pass'd the sacred Haram’s silent tower. And underneath the wide o'er arching gate Survey'd the dwelling of this chief of power, Where all around proclaim'd his high estale. Byron. Tepeleni is situated on the west or left bank of the Viosa, on a lofty penin¬ sular eminence, formed by the junction of the Bendscha with the Viosa. The ruined Seraglio of Ali Pasha, almost equal inextent to thatof Joannina, stands on the brow of a rock, impending over the waters of the river. But the once proud Tepeleni now shelters only 150 Albanian and 8 Greek families. The town is a heap of ruins; and all its fortifications have been levelled with the ground. The Seraglio of Tepeleni is on the site of that which originally belonged to Veli Pasha, the father of Ali. Some of the rooms were magnifi¬ cently adorned, and of great size ; but its chief peculiarity was the beauty of its situation, overhanging the Viosa, and surrounded by the mountain ridges which form this valley, and that of the Bendscha. The harem was on the north side of the Seraglio. Tepeleni was the birth-place and the favourite residence of Ali Pasha, who was visited therein 1810 by Lord Byron, who thus describes the scene :— Amid no common pomp the despot sate. While busy preparation shook the court; Slaves, eunuchs, soldiers, guests, and santons wait; Within, a palace, and without, a fort: Here men of every clime appear to make resort. Richly caparison’d, a ready row Of armed horse, and many a warlike store, Circled the wide-extending court below ; Above, strange groups adorn’d the corridore; And oft-times through the area's echoing door, Some high-capp'd Tatar spurr'd his steed away; The Turk, the Greek, the Albanian, and the Moor Here mingled in their many-liued array, While the deep war-drum’s sound announc'd the close of day. The wild Albanian kirtled to his knee, With shawl-girt head and ornamented gun, And gold-emhroider’d garments, fair to see ; The crimson-scarfed men of Macedon ; The Delhi with his cap of terror on. And crooked glaive ; the lively, supple Greek; And swarthy Nubia's mutilated son ; The bearded Turk, that rarely deigns to speak, Master of all around, too potent to be meek. Are mix'd conspicuous: some recline in groups, Scanning the motley scene that varies round; There some grave Moslem to devotion stoops, And some that smoke, and some that play, are found; Here the Albanian prondly treads the ground; Half-whispering there the Greek is heard to prate; Hark 1 from the mosque the nightly solemn sound, The Muezzim’s call doth shake the minaret, “ There is no god but God 1 —to prayer—lo! God is great!” BrnoN. Ali was born at Tepeleni about the year 1740. His father was a Pasha of two tails ; hut at his death Ali was pos¬ sessed of nothing but his house at Tepe¬ leni, and is said to have boasted that he began life with 60 paras and a musket. By degrees he became master of one village after another, and found himself at the head of a considerable body of Albanians, whom he paid by plunder, for he was then only an inde¬ pendent freebooter ; and it was not with¬ out many difficulties and reverses that he continued his career. At last he col¬ lected money enough to buy from the Porte a Pashalik, and being invested with that dignity, his desire to extend his possesions increased. The state of so¬ ciety in Albania at that period was as lawless as in the W. of Europe during the feudal times. Like a mediaeval Baron, Ali was constantly at war with the neighbouring Pashas, and finally got possession of Joannina, in which Pashalik he was confirmed by an Imperial Firman. He next sub¬ dued the Pashas of Arta, Delvino, Akhrida, and Triecala, and established a great influence over the Agas of Thes¬ saly. Giaffer Pasha, of Valona, he Albania. 397 ROUTE 36. -JOANXIXA poisoned with a cup of coffee ; and he then strengthened himself by marrying his two sons to the daughters of Ibra¬ him, the brother and successor of Giatfar. During his career he more than once furnished his quota to the Imperial army, and served in person against the Russians, but never trusted himself at Court. In 1798 he was made a Pasha of three tails, or Vizier, and had several offers of being made Grand Vizier. Ali’s next step was to obtain Pashaliks for his two sons, Mouctar and Veli. Many of the parts which composed the dominion of Ali were peopled by tribes which had been always rebellious, and never entirely subdued by the Turks, such as the Chimariotes, Suliotes, &c.; besides, the woods and hills were in possession of robber-bands, who burned and plun¬ dered the districts under the Pashas protection. Against these he proceeded with the greatest severity, and succeeded in reducing the country to order. His dominions finally extended 120 miles N. to the Pashalik of Akhrida, N. and N.E. over Thessaly to Olympus, and to the S. the district of Thebes bounded his territory. The career of Ali to some extent resembled that of Mehemet Ali, the famous Pasha of Egypt; but his rebellion against the Sultan was not equally successful, having ended in his ruin and death, a.d. 1822. (Rte. 32.) Two miles from Tepeleni are some ruins on an insulated point, between the mountains and a lower ridge de¬ scending to the 1 iosa. The road con¬ tinues along the left bank of the Viosa to Lnndschi, 16 miles. 4f hours. Here the hills approach each other, forming a narrow pass, and the river flows in a deep and narrow stream; the cliffs in many places rise perpendicularly from the water, taking those singular forms which limestone hills often assume. The road now becomes a precipitous path among the limestone cliffs which overhang the Viosa, leading into a fertile country, forming a sort of basin among the mountains. 2 miles from Lundschi, on a pinnacle of rock, are the remains of an ancient fortress, so situ¬ ated that the only access to it is by a flight of steps cut in the rock. The plain in which the road now lies is that TO BERAT.-GRADISTA. of Kalutzi. The loftiest mountain by which it is bordered is one called Griva. Beyond this plain the valley is again con¬ tracted by the approach of ridges of hill. Karvunuri, 5 hours, is situated be¬ yond this pass on another ridge of hill which runs down to the river. The population of the town is entirely Mahommedan. The river is crossed by a ferry called Lundra. The passage sometimes occupies nearly an hour, being attended with difficulty on account of the violence of the current. Gradisla, 2 hours. The ruins here are situated on a lofty hill which ap¬ proaches theE. bauk of the Viosa, insu¬ lated on each side by valleys, and connected in only one point with the high ground behind. The village of Gradista, which we pass in ascending, is wretched, and almost deserted. The summit of the hill presents a tabular surface of some extent, on which are the ruins of an ancient city, the situa¬ tion of which must have been fine as well as strong. The walls may be traced on the brow of the hill on the W. and N. sides, with a transverse curve connecting the two extremities. They are partly Cyclopean, and partly of a later period. Within the area of the city are several fragments of small columns of coarse marble, and towards the centre of the area are vestiges of some public edifice, probably of one of the temples. There are fragments of 10 or 12 columns here. On one of the perpendicular ledges of rock overhang¬ ing the declivity is a Latin inscription. These ruins may probably be those either of Bullis or Amantia, both ancient Greek cities of Illyria, near Apollonia, but this point is undecided. The view from the summit of the hill extends to the Adriatic, and show's the course of the Viosa winding through the plains. On the opposite side of the valley, lower down than the ruins, is the village of Selinitza, celebrated for its pitch mines. (Route 40.) From Gradista the road descends into the valley, and continues on the right bank of the Viosa, and over the plains, upon w'hich it enters a short dis¬ tance below Gradista. These plains extend far along the coast towards Durazzo, and formed a valuable addi- 398 ROUTE 37.- —JO ANNINA, BV PREMEDI, TO BERAT. Sect. IV. tion to the power of Ali Pasha, who obtained this territory as part of the Pashalik of Berat. Fragola, 14 miles, about 4^ hours. From Fragola the distance to the monastery of Pollina on the site of Apollonia is not above 4 or 5 miles. The monastery of Pollina obtains its name from the city of Apollonia, placed just within the frontier of the ancient Illyricum, and once one of the most considerable and important towns in this region. It was originally founded by the Corinthians, and continued to increase in consequence till the age of the Roman emperors. It was a prin¬ cipal point of communication between Italy and all the northern parts of Greece, Macedonia, and Thrace. The future Augustus of Rome was senthither to receive his education, and had resided here 6 months when the death of Julius Ccesar summoned him to Italy. The situation of Apollonia, opposite the port of Brundusium, and near the commence¬ ment of the great Vja Egnatia, which pi’oceeded E. to Thessalonica, rendered it frequently an object of military importance, particularly in the war between Philip and the Romans, and in that between Crcsar and Pompey. The period of its decline and destruction is not exactly known, but is probably not far distant from that of Nicopolis. The village of Aulon ( Avlona) appears to have increased in importance in the middle ages, as Apollonia declined. The limits of the city cannot now be accurately traced, the vestiges of the'walls being very inconsiderable. It seems, how¬ ever, to have stood amongst a low group of hills which rise from the plains, with a W. and S. aspect towards the coast and the mouth of the Viosa. The most conspicuous object among the ruins is a Doric column, the sole re¬ mains of an ancient temple, standing on one of the above-mentioned eminen¬ ces about 2 miles from the sea, which immediately opposite this point con¬ nects itself with a salt-water lake in the plains. The monastery stands on another hill ^ mile to the N. of the former, and which probably formed part of the old city, as well as a third eminence adjoining the other two; but the remains are few and unim¬ portant. The monastery is very pictu¬ resque. Groups of trees are scattered over the hill on which it stands. A lofty square tower and a circular one rise above the other buildings, while several ancient cypresses which sur¬ round it give an air of repose ai.d sanctity to the spot. Many fragments of antiquity are found in the buildings and within the walls of the monastery. j Berat is one day’s journey from Apol¬ lonia. 11 is the ancient Antipatria, and in Turkish is called the Arnaout Belgrade, or Beligrad. The river Beratino is the ancient Apsus, which, rising in Pindus, falls into the Adriatic. Berat is roman¬ tically situated between the lofty rock on which stands the Castle and the mountain from which that rock has been severed by the Beratino. The town is spread along both banks of the winding stream, and the two banks are united by a high and handsome bridge. Berat is the residence of a bishop. The Greek women here wear veils, like those of the Mussulmans. Berat is the residence of a Pasha, who is Governor of Central Albania; Joannina, Berat, and Scutari being the 3 Pashalik s into which Albania is now divided. ROUTE 37. JOANNINA, BY PREMEDI, TO BERAT. 4. or 5 days. The more direct route from Joannina to Berat lies through Premedi. The traveller may reach the first night the village of Kalpaki, and thence proceed on the second day to a Khan just below the mountain village of Ostanitza. Or, if he has not seen Zitza, he may sleep the first night at the convent there, and diverging to the right from the Delvino road, reach the Khan below Ostanitza on the second evening. The scenery hereabouts is very fine indeed. Thence the road lies along the valley of the Viosa, or Aous, 8^hours to Pre¬ medi, a curious place, dignified with the name of a town, and possessing two miserable Khans and a small Bazaar. The mode of building the houses here is characteristic of a country where the law of the strongest prevails; each house is enclosed in a high wall, and 399 Albania. ROUTE 38.- -DEEVINO TO SCUTARI. forms a private fortress. Thence the road continues along the Viosa for 4 hours to the khan of Klisurn, a village on a hill side where the Viosa turns in the direction of the sea through a very fine pass in the mountains. Then leaving the Viosa the road comes in 4 or 5 hours to a solitary khan, at the foot of that branch of Mt. To- maros, which is here to be crossed. From this khan to Herat is 9 or 10 hours, and there is a khan about half¬ way : the road is dreadfully bad over the’ mountains, which it emerges from a little before reaching Berat. From Premedi nearly to Berat is considered the most dangerous part of this route; and unless "travellers can muster a tolerably large party it would be well to ask for an escort from the Agas of Premedi and Klisura, to which a pass¬ port from the Pasha of Joannina will give a right. Some time before reaching Berat the Greek language will be found to be little spoken, Albanian and Turk¬ ish being in general use. At Berat there are a few merchants, traders with Trieste, who speak Italian. ROUTE 38. DEEVINO, BY DURAZZO, TO SCUTARI. Hrs. Ds. Ms. Delvino to— Hrs. Argy ro Kastro . . . • o Tepeleni . . . . . 0 A Khan. Berat. . . 13 Lusnja. . . 6 Kavaya . Durazzo. . . 3 Scodra or Scutari . . o Delvino. —(See Route 32.) K Mussulman women wear a s 0 20 lTiiia.MU.luau v> tmic n ” '-c*.* dress, consisting of a white wrapper, covering them from the top of the head to the feet, with two half sleeves into which their elbows are thrust, and stuck out at right angles. They have exactly the appearance of rough hewn marble crosses. The wrapper opens at the face, to exhibit a black mask, with two holes for the eyes. Between Delvino and Argyro Kastro rises a ridge 3000 feet in height, looking with its bluff and rugged face towards Corfu, and shelving down rapidly to¬ wards the N. and E. At the bottom lies parallel to it the long narrow valley of Argyro Kastro. From this ridge is a fine view of the Ionian sea and Adri¬ atic gulf, with (in clear weather) the distant hills of Italy ; and on the other side, of the verdant vale of Argyro Kastro, bounded by the bold and beet¬ ling face of a ridge of equal height to the one on which the traveller stands. An opening in the wall of rock shows again a third escarpment behind, so that the mountains appear like gigantic waves rolling one after the other. Argyro Kastro (Route 30) is one day’s journey from Delvino. Tepeleni, 1 day’s journey, described Route 36. The country becomes less wild, and the river is swelled in volume, but straitened in its bed. About 3 hours from Tepeleni is a Khan. Thence the road ascends a succession of mountain passes, which are most bleak and dreary, but crowded with Albanian coulicts or castles, one by itself, or two together, or, at most, ten in the same vicinity, forming a confederacy, bound together for the purposes of injury and defence ; and this part of the route was long notorious for its savage inha¬ bitants. Near the summit of the pass is a Khan. Berat, 13 hours (Route 30). From this place the road lies along an almost uncultivated plain bounded by hills. At the distance of 4^ hours is a Khan, at the spot where the road crosses the river by a large stone bridge. 2 hours farther is the village of Karabunar, with a small Khan. 20 minutes beyond it is the village of Lusnja, lying ^mile to the right of the road, and containing a large house belonging to a Turkish Bey. The country all along is quite flat; an extensive lake is seen among marshes to the left. In 3^ hours from Karabunar we reach the village of Tscherni, with a very miserable Khan, and cross the river Skumbi, the ancient Genusus. Thence it is 3 hours to Kavaya, a place containing 200 or 300 Ghege families; a savage, pictu¬ resque-looking race. We have now fairly entered upon the country of the Gheges, the northernmost of the three 400 ROUTE 38. —DURAZZO.—SCUTARI. general divisions of Albania: the 1st is the southern, of which Joannina is the capita]; the 2nd, or central, extends to Berat; the 3rd, the country of the Gheges, reaches the confines of Monte- Negro and Bosnia. The latter are strongly tinctured with Sclavoniau blood. The Gheges have a distinct costume. They wear the fustanel, or white kilt, but instead of a short jacket they wear a skirt descending as low as the bottom of the fustanel; it is bound round the waist, and conceals the fustanel behind. Their costume exceeds in richness even that of the southern Albanians. Durazzo, 3J hours from Kavaya, the latter part of the road lying along the sea-shore. The town is called Drasch in 'I urkish, and Diiraessi in Albanian. Durazzo occupies the site of the ancient Dyrraehium, or Epidamnus, the most ancient and powerful of the maritime towns of Illyria, fortified by nature, and once rendered impregnable by art. It is surrounded by rocks and the sea, except where it joins the land, and possesses a safe and commodious port, which only requires a mole to be run out from the horn of the present exposed bay, to give shelter to large vessels within, and afford them at the same time the im¬ mense'; - advantage of a pier for lading, which no port of Turkey, except Con¬ stantinople, now offers. From 20 to 30 miles round, the roads might be rendered easily passable for waggons. Epidamnus was a colony of the Corcyreans. The expulsion of its aristocracy in 436 B.c. was one of the proximate causes of the Peloponnesian war. The traveller will find no traces of the ancient city beyond the usual indications afforded by several pieces of columns and marbles scattered among the burial-grounds, and built into the walls. Judging from the nature of the surrounding ground, the ancient city probably stood on the identical site of the modern town. Durazzo has now shrunk to the dimensions of a single street, running along a narrow promon¬ tory, jutting out into the Adriatic. On the point stands the Castle, a building of mediaeval construction, though patched and repaired by the Mahommedans. Durazzo exports tobacco to Italy, and imports Manchester and Birmingham Sect. IV. goods, which are carried to Trieste, and thence sent to Durazzo. There is an Austrian consul here. Italian is very generally spoken in this, as in all the sea-ports on the eastern coast of the Adriatic. Perhaps the most in¬ teresting association connected with Durazzo is the memorable siege, battle, and capture, when the Norman Kobert Guiscard defeated the Greek Emperor Alexius, A. d. 1081-1082. Leaving Durazzo for Scutari, the road lies along a plain, occasionally through thickets. In about 32 hours it enters picturesque scenery among valleys en¬ closed by thickly-wooded hills. About 1 hour onwards the valley gradually widens, and the road enters a large plain mostly covered with wood, with a very fine precipitous chain of mountains on the right. At 8 and 9 hours from Durazzo are khans, and another at 11 hours: the road is execrable: in dry weather a shorter road may be taken to the last-mentioned khan in 9i or 10 hours. li hour farther is another khan (these khans are mere sheds, but generally water-tight ), and 4 hours beyond it is the village of Alessin, or Lesch, situated on the river Drin. Here was the ancient Eissus ; and on the hill above, which is crowned by a fortress, may be seen several portions of the ancient walls, built of large stones. They may be traced down to the river ; but their most extensive remains are on the side of the hill farthest from the stream. The road continues along the river, and in 3 hours from Alessio reaches a ferry; 2 hours after passing which is a khan ; whence it is 3 hours more to Scutari. It will be seen from the above that the journey from Durazzo to Scutari requires only from 2 to 3 days to do it with ease. “ The sleeping-places and accommodations upon it are of the very- worst kind possible. Scutari or Scodra. There is a kind of inn here, rather better than a com¬ mon khan, and lodgings may be pro¬ cured by the help of the English Vice- consul, Sig. Bonatti, a native of Corfu, whose kindness and hospitality leave the traveller little to wish for. In approaching Scutari from the S., Albania, route 39. —scutari to the Dalmatian frontier, etc. 401 both the town and lake are hidden front sight by the ridge, the summit of which is crowned by a mediaeval castle. The houses ou the southern side of the castle-hill have been mostly ruined in some of the late sieges of this unquiet capital of Illyrian Albania. Passing through this scene of desolation, the traveller reaches long lines of bazaars, clustering just below the castle, but only tenanted dtiriug the day ; the real inhabited part of Scodra being scattered over the plain on the N. side of the castle-hill, and between it and the lake. This suburb (commonly called “ the Gardens ”) contains some good houses, surrounded with fruit-trees and stately chesnuts. The castle, in which the Pasha resides, commands a magnificent view: northward, the eye sweeps over the town and suburbs and the blue lake beyond, to the dark and jagged moun¬ tains of Montenegro ; southward lie the plains of the Drin ; westward the Adri¬ atic; and eastward the ridges of the distant Pindus Moreover, most in¬ teresting historical recollections are associated with this fortress, long the outpost of the Venetians and of the Ottomans in turn. In this part of Albania a large portion of the Chris¬ tian population belongs to the Latin Church, and are called Mirdites. The river which flows out of the Lake of Scutari into the Adriatic is the Bojana. A little N. of its mouth is the town of Dulciyno, on the site of the ancient Olcinium. ROUTE 39 . SCUTARI TO THE DALMATIAN FRONTIER AND CATTARO. Proceeding from Scutari to the frontier of Dalmatia 2 days are neces¬ sary, it being about 16 hours, and a rough road. At 9 hours from Scutari is the small town of Antivari, near the coast, in the midst of very fine scenery : a khan upon the sea-shore is the usual halting place, leaving Antivari a little to the right. The road then continues along the sea-shore, and winds among very grand mountainous scenery, and reaches the frontier of the Austrian territory in 4 hours : here, at a line of guard-houses, the traveller is stopped, and his passport examined, on which, as at all other Austrian frontiers, he must have got an Austrian minister’s signature, or he cannot enter. He is then conducted 2 hours on to Castel Lastua, where there is a lazzaretto, small, but clean, and the people very- civil and attentive. Except when some contagious malady is raging in Turkey, quarantine on this frontier of Austria is now entirely dispensed with, and the traveller may return from the East by this route without any detention whatsoever. The first town in Dalmatia is Budua, about 3 hours from Castel Lastua by land, but rather less in a boat. Budua is a very small town, strongly fortified by the Venetians. It stood a siege from the Turks in 1686. During the whole of the route from Scutari to Cattaro, the Montenegro mountains rise grandly on the right. The Monte- negrines are of Slavonian race, a frag¬ ment of the Servia of the Middle Ages, and havenever been really conquered by the Turks. They are governed by their Vladika, who formerly was bishop as well as prince. The population of Montenegro amounts to about 100,000, of which number 20,000 are fighting men. The last attempt made by the Turks to conquer them vras in 1853. Their capital, Cettiyne , is only 5 hours from Cattaro: no traveller should at¬ tempt to penetrate into Montenegro from the Turkish frontier ; from Cat¬ taro there is no difficulty. For a full account of this singular people and their country, see Sir Gardner Wilkinson’s Dalmatia and Montenegro. (Hand¬ book of T l RKEY.) Four hours, by a good road, brings the traveller from Budua to Cattaro (Handbook for Southern Germany) ; a small fortified town, situated in mag¬ nificent scenery at the foot of the Mon¬ tenegro mountains, and at the extremity of the deep winding gulf called Bocche di Cattaro, the Rhizonic Gulf of anti¬ quity. There is a small hotel here, and lodgings can easily be procured. Italian is very generally spoken in all the ports of Dalmatia. 402 ROUTE 40. -TEPELENI TO SELIXITZA AND AVEONA. Sect. IV. Steamers go from Cattaro to Trieste in 5 days, once a week, stopping at the principal ports in Dalmatia, and en¬ abling the traveller to form a tolerable idea of the towns and people. (Hand¬ book for Southern Germany.) ROUTE 40- TEPELENI TO SELINITZA AND AVLONA. Karvunari, see Route 36. Hrs. Karvunari.10 Selinitza .4 Avloua.4 The pitch-mines of Selinitza are only a few miles lower down the Viosa. The mineral pitch formation at this place is one of the most considerable that has been discovered, though inferior to that on the shores of the Caspian Sea. The beds of the mineral are diffused over a surface 4 miles in circumference. The pitch comes out in various places on the declivity of the ravines, and is occa¬ sionally worked in such situations, though more frequently by shafts sunk down from the surface. The pitch is covered only by a loose deposit of cal¬ careous earth and clay. &c. In order to descend the shaft, the traveller is placed in the noose of a rope, and let down by a windlass. The miners say, that the thickness of the bed of pitch amounts, in many places, to 70 or 80 feet. The compact mineral pitch, or asphaltum of Selinitza, has the usual characters of that substance in its greatest state of purity. The colour is nearly black, with a resinou« lustre; the fracture is conchoidal; it is slightly brittle ; the specific gravity 1 *4 or 1 ■ 5. It becomes viscid, or nearly fluid, when heated, and burns with a flame. The property of the pitch-mines, as of all others in Turkey, is nominally vested in the Sultan. The machinery employed about the shafts of the mines is of the simplest description, consisting merely of ropes, windlasses, and wicker-baskets. The miners are paid according to the number of okes of the mineral which they may severally obtain. The carri¬ age to Avloua is performed by horses, at the expense of 1 para per oke, or Is. per cwt. It seems certain that the ancients were acquainted with this de¬ posit of pitch. Strabo speaks of a place called rsymphaeum, in the country of the Apolloniotes, where there was a rock yielding fire, from below which issued fountains of asphaltum. There can be little doubt that the Nvmphseum of Strabo was the pitch formation on the banks of the Viosa; an opinion confirmed by the phenomena which occur on the spot. In two or three spots in the vicinity of the pitch-mines, Dr. Holland found an inflammable gas issuing from the ground, which easily took fire, and spread a flame of some extent over the surface. A small space of ground, 15 or 20 yards in circum¬ ference, showed a surface denuded of vegetation, and covered with stones and earth, and apparently decomposed by sulphureous vapours. The surface was very sensibly heated: on one part of it a streamlet of water issued from the ground, forming in its egress a little basin, through which arose a number of air-bubbles. This gas in¬ stantly inflames on the application of a light, and burns with great vividness. The gas frequently ignites from natural causes, especially after heavy rains; and continues burning for several weeks. The wretched village of Selinitza is en¬ tirely inhabited by the workmen of the mines. Proceeding from Selinitza to Avlona, the traveller crosses the hills on which are the pitch-mines, and traversing the valley of the river which comes from Del vino, he crosses the Gypsum hills. Avlona (the accusative of Aulon , Italice Valond) is beautifully situated on its gulf, which is so environed with hills, that it has the appearance of a great lake, the southern boundary of which is formed by the steep and rugged ascent of the Aeroceraunian mountains. The town is about 1 j mile from the sea, and has 8 or 10 minarets. On the shore is a tolerable wharf, with an apulogy for a fort in the shape of a square enclosure of ruinous walls, with towers and a few. cannon. The town occupies a hollow, thickly grown with olive-trees, among which are some gardens of herbs mixed with cypresses, Alba ia. route 41. — avlo poplars, and fruit-trees. Beyond it, I the rugged hills are covered with olives, and X. extends a -woody plain, forming a level shore, except at the north en¬ trance of the gulf, where there are some low white cliffs, separated from the plain by a lagoon, containing salt¬ works, and a fishery. Avloua has a handsome street, more in the Italian than the Turkish style of architecture. Avlona, or Aulon, in ancient times, derived importance from the safety of its roadstead “ Avloua lies in a recess or bay of the mountains, which here leave a level space of 2 miles or more between their base and the sea. The town is built for the most part at the foot of a crescent of rock, but the sides are dotted with houses; and at the two horns of this natural amphitheatre stand many conspicuous Dervish tombs of pretty architecture, surrounded by groves of cypress. From hence the eye looks down on Avlona in its garden of plane and olive-trees, its principal buildings, the fine palace of its late Bey, and some good mosques, which stand out in beau¬ tiful relief from the wide salt plain and gulf beyond. The gulf, shut in on one side by the long point of mountain called La Linguetta (Italice, in Greek Glossa), and on the other by the island of Sazona, has exactly the appearance of a lake; so that the effect of the whole picture is most complete and charming.”— Lear. Avlona, and the other towns and villages in this part of Albania, suffered severely from a great earthquake in the autumn of 1851. The ancient town of Aulon stood on the same site as its modern namesake. Aulon a hollow between hills, was an appellation given to many such districts in Greece and Italy, and to places situated in them. ROUTE 41. A week’s tour in the acrocerattntan MOUNTAINS. AVLONA BY KHIMARA TO BCTRINTO. This is a very romantic and inter¬ esting journey. The mountaineers of Khimara, as the district is called from ( XA TO BUTRIXTO. 403 the name of its principal town, long maintained, like the mountaineers of Maina in the Peloponnesus, a wild and savage independence; and their man¬ ners and social state are still, in many respects, distinct from those of the neighbouring districts. The traveller should procure at Avlona the assistance of a native Khimariot guide, in addition to his other attendants. “ Let a painter visit Acroceraunia: until he does so, he will not be a wave of the grandest phases of savage yet classical pictur- j esqueuess — whether Illyrian or Epirote —men or mountains: but let him go with a good guide, or he may not come back again.” — Lear. That part of Lear's Journals in Albania which refers to Khimdra will be fouud peculiarly interesting. On leaving Avlona. the traveller passes some ruined buildings by the sea-side and an extensive olive-ground, and then ascends by a precipitous path to the village of Kanina, which occu¬ pies the site of the ancient Bullis maritima, the inland town of that name having stood near Graditsa. The ruinous fort of Kanina occupies the highest point of the hill, and commands a glorious prospect over the Adriatic beyond Avlona, its bay, the long head¬ land or tongue of Glossa, or Linguetta, and the island of Sazona, while, in¬ land, the eye ranges over vast ridges of mountains, with an infinity of gorges, woods, and torrents. Hence the traveller rides down the southern side of the hill of Kanina, and regains the shore, where “ a spring of pure and icy fresh water gushes from the foot of a rock into the sea, and offers a natural halting-place for all who travel between Khimara and Av- lona.” Mr. Lear remarks that there are many similar coves on the coast east of Plymouth; a home association which will be relished among the “ in- fames scopulos, Acroceraunia.” From this fountain it is 4 long hours to Dradzidtes, the first Khimariot village. On the road are passed, near the village of Ericho, some remains of the ancient Oricum. The pathway leads along the side of the sea, but generally far above the blue water. “Anything more 404 Sect. IV. ROUTE 41. -AVLOXA TO BUTRINTO. frightful than these (so-called) paths j along the iron rocks of Acroceraunia j it is not easy to imagine: as if to baffle I invaders, the edges along which we went slowly, now wound inward, skirt¬ ing ravines full of lentisk and arbutus, now projected over the bald sides of precipices, so that, at certain unex¬ pected angles, the rider’s outer leg hung sheer over the deep sea beltrw. To the first of these surprising bits of horror-samples of the highways of Khimara I had come all unknowingly, j my horse turning round a sharp rocky point, and proceeding leisurely thence down a kind of bad staircase, without balustrades. I declined, however, trying a second similar pass on his back, and, at the first spot where there was safe j footing, dismounted. Meanwhile the | Khimariot, who ever and anon kept shouting Kaxo; ^po/jjos, Signore! (a bad road, Sir!) fired off his pistol at inter¬ vals, partly, as he said, from ‘ allegria ’ (mirth), and partly to prevent any one meeting us in this dire and narrow way. When we had overcome the last of the Kakos dromos, lo! a beautiful scene opened at the narrow end of the gulf, which lay like a still and dark lake below the high wall of the Khimara territory. Dradziades , the door, as it were, of Acroceraunia, stands on a height immediately in front, while the majestic snowy peak of Tschika (the lofty point so conspicuous from Corfu, and on the southern side of which stand the real Khimariot villages) towers over all the scene, than which one more sublime, or more shut out from the world, I do not-recollect often to have noticed.”— -Lear. Descending to the shore, the path leads across the sands to the end of the gulf, whence it turns off to the left, and gradually ascends to Dradziades. Presently it reaches the oak-clad hills immediately below the village, where narrow winding paths lead upward among great rocks and spreading trees worthy of Salvator Rosa. The ferocity of the dogs—descendants of the famous Molossian breed—exceeds in Khimara even what is experienced elsewhere in Albania and Greece; and the traveller must be on his guard against their at¬ tacks when approaching houses or sheep- folds. In other respects he will be hos¬ pitably received among the Aerocerau- nian mountains, and the accommoda¬ tion which he will find in the houses of the mountaineers is not inferior to that found elsewhere in these countries. No one, of course, visits this part of the world for food, cleanliness, or sleep. It will always be more correct to say, in the old English phrase, “ We lay in such a place,” rather than “ We slept there,” for vermin of all kinds too often ensure what Milton calls “ a sober certainty of waking bliss.” Mr. Lear shrewdly observes,—“ The plan of Khimariot hospitality is this: the guest buys a fowl or two, and his hosts cook it, and help him to eat it.” Dradziades is about 7 hours from Av- lona, and it had better be made the resting-place for the first night. Vuno may be reached the second evening, and Khimara is from thence only half a day’s journey. After leaving Dradziades the path proceeds towards Dukadhes, the next village, first through a tract of low wood, and then upwards by a gorge or pass, down which the wind often rushes with frightful force. “At the highest part of the pass a most singular scene opens. The spectator seems on the edge of a high wall, from the brink of which giddy elevation he looks down into a fearfully profound basin, at the roots of the mountain. Above its eastern and southern enclosures rises the giant snow-clad Tschika in all his immensity, while, at his very feet, in a deep, dark green pit of wood and garden, lies the town or village of Dukadhes, its houses scattered like milk-white dice along the banks of a wide torrent.Shut out by iron walls of mountain, sur¬ rounded by sternest features of savage scenery, rock and chasm, precipice and torrent, a more fearful prospect, and more chilling to the very blood, I never beheld - so gloomy and severe—so un¬ redeemed by any beauty or cheerful¬ ness.”— Lear. The path descends to Dukadhes from the summit of the pass, over a succession of rugged steeps. From Dukadhes a rude track leads across the valley, ascending gradually, Albania. ROUTE 41. —AVLOXA TO BUTRINTO. 405 now over undulating turf, and now dip- i ping by slanting paths into tremendous chasms, which convey the torrents from the northern face of Tschika to the river of Dukadhes, the ancient Ce- lydnus, on the W. of the valley. After crossing the last ravine, which closes the valley to the eastward, we wind upwards by a toilsome ascent to the great pass of Tschika, picking our way among rocks and superb pines. At about -tj hours from Dukadhes we reach the top of the pass, and begin to descend by what is called the Strada Bianca, or Aspri Ruga (White Road , “ a zig-zag path on the side of the steepest of precipices, yet the only communication between Kbimara and Avldna towards the N. The track is a perfect staircase, and were you to attempt to ride down it, you would seem at each angle as if about to shoot off into the blue sea below you : even when walking down, one comes to an intimate knowledge of what a fly must feel in traversing a ceiling or perpendi¬ cular wall.” Corfu, and the islets off its northern coast, now become visible, “ something of a foreshadowing of England in this far-away land.” The opposite coast of Italy is also clearly seen in fine weather from Acroceraunia. After having completed the descent of the Strada Bianca, the traveller reaches that remarkable torrent, which, descending in one uubroken white bed from the mountain top down its sea¬ ward face, is known to mariners as “ II flume di Strada Bianca.” It is a very conspicuous object from the Adriatic. “ Without doubt, this is a very re¬ markable scene of sheer mountain terror; it presents a simple front of rock—awful from its immense magni¬ tude— crowned at its summit with snow and pines, and riven into a thousand lines, all uniting in the tremendous ravine below.” Crossing this great water-course the route lies at the foot of the hills, over ground more cheerful and cultivated, till, in about 5 hours from Dukadhes, we reach the village of Palasa, near the site of the ancient Palccste. From Paldsa to Drymddhes, the next in suc¬ cession of the Khimariot villages, the route is comparatively uninteresting, except inasmuch as the great features of Acroceraunia—the bright blue sea on one side and the high mountain wall on the other—are always singularly strik¬ ing. In about one hour from Palasa we arrive at another torrent-chasm, “ cloven from the heart of the mountains to the sea and here stands Drymddhes, with its houses scattered in all possible posi¬ tions among the crags of the ravine, through whose narrow sides remote peeps of the lofty summits of Tschika are visible. A wild tract of rugged country suc¬ ceeds to Drymddhes, and in about 1 hour more is reached Lidtes, a village consisting of a little knot of houses standing in groves of olive-trees, an oasis of greenness and fertility which forms a rare exception to the general barrenness of Kbimara. Hence the path lies over rocks overgrown with underwood till it reaches the last ravine, before arriving at Vuno, aud which is a deep chasm that runs widening to the sea. The view of Corfu, above this long perspective of ravines, is exceed¬ ingly beautiful. In half an hour more we reach Fund, one of the largest vil¬ lages of Acroceraunia, and where (for Albania) very tolerable quarters may be procured. Like Drymddhes, Vuno is placed fronting the sea in a sort of horseshoe hollow at the head of a ravine. For more than an hour after leaving Vuno, the route crosses a succession of sandy chasms; it then approaches a wild pass in the mountains which here advance close to the sea. High above hangs the village of Pilieri; and on all sides are inaccessible precipices —in¬ accessible at least to any but Khimariot women, who, in their daily avocation of gathering bushwood for fuel, climb to the most fabulous spots. The path through this pass consists of mere ledges of crumbling earth half-way down nearly perpendicular precipices, or huge fallen masses of stone. The broad ravine in which the pass terminates widens out gradually between lower hilis, and shortly opens in a view of the town of Khimara itself—perched on a high isolated rock, with a torrent run- 406 ROUTE 42. —JO ANNINA TO LARISSA. Sect. IV. ning below it to the sea, while Corfu forms the back-ground of the picture A steep zig-zag path leads upwards to the town, which occupies the site, as it preserves the name of the ancient Chimara. There are still considerable remains of Hellenic masonry. The modern town suffered severely from Ali Pasha, and is now much dilapidated. The inhabitants of Khimara speak Greek, though the language of the ma¬ jority of the Aeroceraunians is Albanian. All are Christians. A little to the S. of the town of Khimara is the safe and deep harbour called Port Palerimo, the ancient Panormus, the only haven of refuge on this iron coast. A good me¬ thod of exploring Acroceraunia would be to come to this harbour in a yacht from Corfu, and thence to make excur¬ sions among the mountains. From Khimdra it is 2 days’journey through scenery resembling that already- described to the Fort;/ Saints {"Ayioi 'S.apr/.vra'), corrupted by the Italians into Santa Quaranta. The principal villages in this southern part of Acroceraunia are Kiepero, Bortzi, Sopoti, Pikernaes, Lukovo, and Spilia. The Forty Saints, or Santa Quaranta , is a little open port, with a few houses and magazines round it. A boat may sometimes be procured here to cross to Corfu. This was the site of the ancient Onchesmus. Two hours in a N.E. direction are re¬ mains of the ancient Phcenice, a name retained by the modern village of Phinihi. A little further in the same direction is Delvino (Koute 32). From Santa Quaranta to Butrinto is 5 or 6 hours. The path leads along the rocky neck of land which separates the lake of Butrinto, or Livari ,* from the sea. There are beautiful views on the one side into the interior of Albania, and on the other of the opposite coasts of Corfu. The contrast between bar¬ barism and civilization, barrenness and fertility, is here very strongly marked. From Butrinto the traveller can cross to the town of Corfu, a distance of 9 miles. * A corruption of the Latin “ vivarium.” EOUTE 42. FROM JOANNINA TO LARISSA. Hours. Khan of Baldouni. 5% Metzovo.8 Khan of Malakassi.4 Kalabaka (Ascent to Meteora). . 7 Tricala. 4 Zarko.0 Larissa.6 40i From Joannina to the Khan of Bal¬ douni, 5^ hours.—The road skirts the S. end of the lake, end winds by a terrace round an insulated hill on which are some ancient remains now called Castritza. but identified by some writers with the site of Dodona. The hill is tinged with iron, and particularly at the place where part of the water of the lake is said to find a subterranean exit. The face of the rock is much fractured. The road then enters a broad valley, and then ascends the ridge of Metzikeli, here called Dryscos, i. e. % Oakley. From the summit is a mag¬ nificent view of the town and lake of Joannina on one side, and the valley of the Aracthus and the mountain scenery of Pindus on the other. Below this ridge is the Khan of Kyria, or the Lady's Khan, about ] 2 miles from Joannina. The paved road from Joannina to the Khan of Kyria is con¬ tinued towards Metzovo ; but there is a shorter route by a steep path to the Khan of Baldouni, a picturesque and beautiful spot, near the banks of the Arta, or Aracthus. Hence to Metzovo is 8 hours.—The road follows the course of the river till the junction of the Zagori and Metzovo branches, which unite, at an acute angle, the lofty intervening ridge terminating in a promontory clothed with wood. The road crosses the Zagori, and follows the course of the Metzovo stream, the bed of which it traverses nearly 30 times in 12 miles. This road is impracticable when the stream is Albania. ROUTE 42. —JOANNIXA TO LARISSA.-PINDUS. 407 swollen, but is at other times preferred by travellers, as being more picturesque than the upper road to Metzovo. 4 hours from Baldouni is Trikliani ; so ; named from 3 Khans placed near each 1 other. Kri/sovitza is seen in the re¬ cesses of the mountains From rrikhani to Metzovo the ascent is very difficult and laborious. Metzovo, a town of 1000 houses, hangs on the steep side of a mountain, separated from Mount Zygos by two deep ravines, whence the river Arta takes its source. Metzovo commands the most important pass in all Pindus. Surrounded on every side by high moun¬ tain-ridges, it stands nearly 3000 feet above the level of the sea. The town is divided into two unequal portions by the chasm of a torrent which forms a branch of the Arta. The population of Metzovo is of Wallachian descent.— (General Introduction, o .) The river Aspropotamo, the ancient Achelous, rises near Metzovo. The Peueus, or Salamvria, also rises on the E. side of Pindus, above Metzovo; again, the Viosa, the ancient Abus, takes its rise in the mountains to the N. of Metzovo, as also the Haliacmon, ; or Vistritza, and the Aracthus, or Arta. Hence to the Khan of Malahassi is 4 hours. The road ascends the central ridge of Pindus, immediately opposite to Metzovo. It first followsthe course of a mountain-torrent, and from thence is very steep, winding along a precipitous promontory of rock to the summit of the pass, which is attained after two hours’ travelling, and is 45 feet is accomplished in 3 minutes, j The monasteries are irregularly scattered on the summit of the rocks, and possess j neither external nor internal splendour. Kalabaka to Tricala, 4 hours. The road winds round the tallest of the pinnacles, which may be 1000 feet in j height, and opens on the plain of Tri¬ cala. To the right is the Peneus; to the left Kalabaka, overshadowed by the reverse of the rocks of Meteora, which on this side assume a hilly character. At a distance in the plain appear the towers of Tricala. On the right is ! Pindus, and on the left a low chain of naked hills stretches from Kalabaka to j Tricala. The approach to Tricala is j marked by an appearance of comfort, activity, and prosperity. Tricala, the ancient Tricca, is si¬ tuated on a low ridge of hills, which extends into the plain from its northern boundary. Near the extremity of this ridge are the ruins of the castle, once of some importance, probably erected during the period of the Greek em¬ perors. The Governor’s residence is composed of two large serais, occupying two sides of a quadrangle. The culture of cotton is carried on to a considerable extent in the adjoining plains. The great plain of Thessaly enabled the old Thessalians to practise horse¬ manship, and lay the foundation of the glory of the Thessalian cavalry. At the present day the traveller is reminded of the physical properties of this region by the sight of the wide and level road near Larissa, on which the Arrabahs, or chariots, of the Turkish Beys, the modern Scopadae and Aleuadae, may be seen to roll. The Centaurs were an ancient Thessalian tribe, in Homer nearly savage warriors, but who in after times came to be depicted as half men and half horses, from traditions of their equestrian prowess. There was pro- Greece. bably a time when they appeared as formidable monsters to their neighbours, as did the mounted Spaniards to the Mexicans. Hence to Larissa is 12 hours ; but the traveller may divide the journey by stopping at Zarko, a village in ruins half way between. The road lies across the plain, and is devoid of interest. Near Zarko an irregular chain of hills runs to Thaumaci, and separates the plain of Tricala from that of Larissa and Pharsalia. The traveller crosses the Peneus near a deserted village. Farther on, a rising ground is covered with Turkish tombstones and Hellenic remains. This is the site of the ancient Larissa ; and soon after the minarets of Larissa are seen glittering above an oasis of trees and verdure in the midst of a plain of sand. Larissa is situated on a gently rising ground on the S. side of the Peneus or Salamvria. It was one of the most wealthy cities of ancient Thessaly, and is still considered the capital of that province. Larissa is the residence of an archbishop, and of a Pasha, and contains 30,000 inhabitants, partly Greeks and partly Mahommedans. There is also a number of Jews. There is little remarkable in the town. It is the station of a large Turkish garrison. ROUTE 43. LARISSA TO LAMIA (ZEITUN). Hours. Larissa to Pharsalus .... 6 Pharsalus to Thaumaci ... 7 Thaumaci to Lamia .... 7 20 Between Larissa and Pharsalus there is a splendid view of Olympus, Pelion, and Ossa, to the left. The ancient Pharsalus is 6 hours from Larissa. This town, called Tzalalze by the Turks, and by the modern Greeks Phersala, is situated beneath the rocky and precipitous front of a hill 500 feet high, and forming a semicircular sweep towards the N., on which side the town stands. On this hill are the ruins of the castle of Pharsalus; J mile distant is a | small river, the ancient Enipens. One T 410 RTE. 44. LARISSA TO VOLO, ETC.- 45. TO SALONICA. Sect. IV. part of the town is on the ascent of the hill, the other on the plain. The battle of Pharsalia, between Caesar and Pom- pey (b.c. 48), was fought on the plain adjoining the town, immediately below the above - mentioned heights. The neighbourhood had been previously sig¬ nalized by the battle between the Ro¬ mans under Quintus Flamininus, and the Macedonians under the last Philip. This action took place on the eminences called Cynoscephalce, to the E. of Phar- salia, b.c. 197. Pharsalus toThaumaci, 7 hours. The road passes through a narrow defile and enters the plain, passing by several Turkish burial-grounds. It then as¬ cends through a ravine to Dhomoko, the ancient Thaumaci,which occupies a lofty pinnacle to the right of the ravine. The houses are built up the sides of the declivity, and the castle crowns the summit. The remains of the ancient walls are still to be seen. Thaumaci to Lamia, or Zeitun, 7 hours. The road crosses a chain of hills and descends into an extensive plain, at the W. extremity of which is a lake. The road then ascends the chain of hills connected with Mount Othrys, from the summit of which is a remark¬ able view of the valley beneath. There is also here a striking view of Mount CEta. Passing the Greek frontier the road thence descends to Lamia. (Route 4.) ROUTE 44. LARISSA TO VOLO AND ARMYRO. A triangular excursion of a week may profitably be made in the S.E. dis¬ trict of Thessaly, called of old Magnesia. 11 is two days’ easy ride over the plain to Volo, thence it is one day to Armyrd ; and thence the traveller can proceed to Pharsalus, and so either return to Larissa, or, crossing the frontier of the kingdom of Greece, reach Lamia (Route 43). The plain of Thessaly, between La¬ rissa and Volo, is one unvaried undula¬ tion, but on the left are the glorious peaks of Olympus, Ossa, and Pelion. At length, crossing the low range of hills round the Gulf of Volo, the ancient Pagasaan Bay, we come in sight of its blue waves, with the Magnesian promon¬ tory- hounding it on the E., and the pic¬ turesque little town of Volo (the ancient Iolcos ) at its northern extremity. On the shore of the Gulf, about 2 miles S. of Volo, are considerable re¬ mains of the city of Demelrias, founded about b.c. 290,by Demetrius Poliorcetes, and which soon became an important place, and the favourite residence of the later Macedonian Kings. It was recom¬ mended to them by its convenience as a military and naval station in the centre of Greece, by its beautiful situation, and by its many natural advantages. Mount Pelion afforded in the neighbour¬ hood at once a park, an icehouse, and a preserve of game for the chase. From Volo to Armyrd is a short and delightful day's ride, the path lying near the shore of the Gulf. In this district are the remains of several ancient Thes¬ salian cities, such as Pagusce, near the village of Golo, Pheree, near Velestias, Theboe, and Pyrasos, near Akketzeli, and others. Pagasae gave the ancient, as Volo the modern name to the Gulf. Armyrd is prettily situated, at a short distance from the sea, embosomed in groves of wood. The frontier of the kingdom of Greece is only 2 hours distant; and 1 hour farther, at the en¬ trance of the Gulf of Volo, a new town has been built, called Nea Mintzela, or Amaliopolis, in honour of the present Queen. There is a direct track from Armyrd to Lamia, but it will be better to join the high road from Larissa, at Pharsalus (Route 43). ROUTE 45- LARISSA TO SALONICA. Hours. Larissa to Baba.5 Ampelakia.2 Platamona (Heraclea) ... 6 Katarina (Dium).8 Kidros (Pydna).5 Leuterochori.l Libanova ....... 2* Indje Karasu (Haliacmon) . . 2 Mauronero, or Karasmak (Lydias) 3 Vardari (Axius) ..... 3 Tekale . 2 Salonica.2 41* 411 Thessaly, route 45. —larissa to saloxica.—ampelakia. [The traveller who reverses this route, and starts from Salonica, will do wisely to take a boat at Salonica, and run down the Gulf to Platamona, thereby saving a very tedious and uninteresting circuit by' land. This can seldom be done in going to Salonica, as boats are rarely' to be met with at Platamona.] The road from Larissa to Tempe is along the old military way, over the Pe- lasgic plain, on which are numerous tu¬ muli, which continue all the way to the defile of Tempe. It passes a marshy lake, the Patus Nesonis, mentioned by Strabo. The view of Olympus and Ossa is here very fine. Mount Pelion is to the S.E. Baba, 5 hours. The road follows the course of the Peneus as far as Baba, which is at the entrance of the vale of Tempe. Baba may perhaps have been the site of the ancient Gonnus. Olympus (1.) and Ossa (rt.) form the two sides of the defile of Tempe, and in the bottom of the cleft between the two mountains flows the Peneus. By the side of this river, at the western en¬ trance, stands the Turkish village of Baba. S.S.E. of this town, towards the right, at a considerable elevation, is Ampelakia, on Mount Ossa. The way up to it is by a paved road. From this part of Mount Ossa the ancients obtained their Verde Antico. Ampelakia, 2( hours. All the heights around this place are covered with vine¬ yards (iz>wsX;«), whence the name is de¬ rived. The wine made here resembles claret. The town hangs upon the side of the mountain above the pass of Tempe. It was formerly situated lower down towards the defile, but the inha¬ bitants removed hither, to avoid the in¬ cursions of the Turkish troops. Many of the inhabitants of this secluded spot were formerly Germans, though they wore the Eastern dress. There was a staple manufactory here for dyeing thread of a red colour, which supported and en¬ riched the inhabitants, and gave rise to a very considerable commerce. At the end of the 18th century, when Ampelakia was visited by Beaujour, he gave the following account of it: — “ Ampelakia, by its activity, appears rather a borough of Holland than a vil¬ lage of Turkey. This village spreads’ by' its industry, movement and life over the surrounding country, and gives birth to an immense commerce, which unites Germany to Greece by a thou¬ sand threads. Its population now(1798) amounts to 4000, having trebled in L5 years. In this village are unknown both the vices and cares engendered by idleness; the hearts of the Ampelakiotes are pure, and their faces serene: the slavery which blasts the plains, watered by the Peneus, has never ascended the sides of Pelion (Ossa) ; and they govern themselves like their ancestors by their primates and other magistrates. Twice the Mussulmans of Larissa attempted to scale their rocks, and twice were they repulsed by hands which dropped the shuttle to seize the musket. Every arm, even those of the children, is em¬ ployed in the factories: whilst the men dye the cotton, the women prepare and spin it. There are 24 factories, in which yearly 6138 cwts. of cotton yarn are dyed. This yarn finds its way into Germany, and is disposed of at Buda, Vienna, Leipsic, Dresden, Anspach, Bayreuth. The Ampelakiote merchants had houses of their own in all these places. These houses belonged to dif¬ ferent associations at Ampelakia. The competition thus established reduced the common profits; they proposed therefore to unite under one central ad¬ ministration. Twenty years ago this plan was suggested, and a few years after it was carried into execution. The lowest shares in this joint stock were 5000 piastres (between 600?. and 700?.) and the highest were restricted to 20,000, that the capitalist might not swallow up the profits. The workmen subscribed their little profits, and, unit¬ ing in societies, purchased single shares, and, besides their capital, their labour ' was reckoned in the general amount. The dividends were at first restricted to 10 per cent., and the surplus was ap¬ plied to augmenting the capital, which in 2 years was raised from 600,000 to 1,000,000 piastres (120,000?.). Three directors, under an assumed firm, ma¬ naged the affairs of the company; but the signature was also confided to three associates at Vienna, whence the returns T 2 412 route 45. —larissa to saloxica. Sect. IV. were made. These 2 firms had their correspondents at Pest, Trieste, Leipsic, Salonica, Constantinople, and Smyrna, to receive their own staple, effect the return, and to extend the market for the cotton yarn of Greece. An impor¬ tant part of the trust was to circulate the funds realized, from hand to hand, ancl from place to place, according to their own circumstances, necessities, and the rates of exchange. The greatest harmony long reigned in the associa¬ tion ; the directors were disinterested, the correspondents zealous, and the workmen laborious. The company’s profits increased every day, on a capital which had rapidly become immense.” Mr. Urquhart, in the “ Spirit of the East,” says, that at length “ the infrac¬ tion of an injudicious by-law gave rise to litigation by which the community was split into two factions. For several years, at an enormous expense, they went about to Constantinople, Salonica, and Vienna, transporting witnesses, mendicating legal decisions, to reject them when obtained; and the company separated into as many parts as there were associations of workmen in the original firm At this period the bank of Vienna, where their funds were deposit¬ ed, broke, and along with this misfortune political events combined to overshadow the fortunes of Ampelakia, where pros¬ perity and even hope were finally extin¬ guished by the commercial revolution produced by the spinning-jennies of England. Turkey now ceased to sup¬ ply Germany with yarn; she became tributary for this her staple commodity to England. Finally came the Greek revolution. This event has reduced within the same period to a state of as complete desolation the other flourishing townships of Magnesia, Pelion, Ossa, and Olympus.” From Ampelakia, the road descends again into the Vale of Tempe to regain the direct route to Salonica. The scenery becomes grand in the extreme. The perpendicular rocks rise to a pro¬ digious height, broken with winter tor¬ rents, and dyed with various hues by a thousand storms. Right and left, on their highest peaks, are the ruins of ancient fortresses, once the bulwarks of the de¬ file. It is through the gorge of Tempe that the Peneus found an outlet to the Gulf of Therma or Salonica, and carried off the waters of the lake, which once, according to the testimony of Herodotus’ and every physical probability, covered the plain of Thessaly. It is here a dark and rapid flood, often hid by the splendid planes which overshadow it, and which are covered, like the rocks around, with a profusion of wild vines and other creepers, hanging in graceful festoons. It is evident from the marks of ancient chariot-wheels that the road of old lay in the same track with the modern path. Occasional openings in the walls of living rock afford a glimpse of some of the nearest heights of Olympus and Ossa, clothed with oaks and firs; in other places, where both sides of the ravine are equally preci¬ pitous, a small portion of blue sky only is visible. All the underwood of the E. abounds in the bottom of the pass. It was with the laurel of Tempe that the victors in the Pythian games were crowned. The inhabitants of Delphi came every ninth year to gather it. Ford says, in his “ Lover’s Melan¬ choly ”— “ Passing from Italy to Greece, the tales Which poets of an elder time have feigned To glorify their Tempe, bred in me Desire of visiting that Paradise. To Thessaly I came; and living private, I, day by day, frequented silent groves And solitary walks.” Among the many ancient writers who have described this famous pass, the most accurate descriptions are those of Livy (xliv. 6), and of Catullus (Epithal. Pel. et Thet.). Tempe is a narrow rocky defile, 5 miles long, in which there is often only room for the traveller and the Peneus to travel side by side. It is a cleft or chasm, as its name implies (Tempe, from Te/Ltvw). The banks are fringed with the low lentisk, the pliant ac/mis castus, and the sacred bay from which Apollo culled the shoot which he trans¬ planted to the borders of the Castalian rill. Pompey, after his defeat at Phar- salia, rode rapidly to Tempe, a 40 miles’ ride, where he quenched his burning thirst in the waters of the Peneus. He Macedonia. ROUTE 45.—SALONICA. 413 never drank again of the rivers of Greece. At the Eastern opening of the gorge, the Pierian plain presents a wooded park¬ like scene. Crossing this, we descend to the shore of the Gulf of Therma, whence there is a beautiful view of the Pierian region and Olympus, with Pla- tarnona standing on a promontory in the midst of the picture. 1 he islands of Sciathus and Scopelos and the other northern Sporades are in sight. Platamona, 6 hours. It stands on the site of Heraclea. The fort crowns a rock with the sea in front, and a stream on one side of it. Some re¬ mains of antiquity are to be observed, particularly an aqueduct. The Turk¬ ish cemetery is below the wall of the fortress. A small garrison is main¬ tained here. Leaving Platamona, we cross a small river ; left is Skamnia, hanging on the side of Olympus. From this village, which is 5.j hours from Platamona, the traveller may ascend the summit in about 4 or 5 hours. There is another ■village, called Curea, 6 hours from Pla- tamona, whence the ascent is considered the easiest. To the E., across the Gulf of Ther¬ ma, is Mount Athos: the road con¬ tinues along the base of Olympus, and reaches a Khan half way between Pla¬ tamona and Katarina. Soon after we come to a military road leading from Katarina to the sea near an ancient port. We now cross the Malathria river (the Enipeus). Before reaching Katarina, a stream, the ancient JBuphi/rus, is to be forded. Near it are some remains of a Doric temple. Turning off the road here to the left, we come to a tumulus, corre¬ sponding with the description by Apol- lodorus of the Tomb of Orpheus. Katarina, 8 hours, is a small town, surrounded with wood, situated in a narrow plain between Olympus and the sea. From this spot is the finest view of the outline formed by the summits of Olympus. It is probable that Ka¬ tarina is near the site of Itium. The old Pelasgiccar, drawn by oxen, is still in use in this region. Leaving Katarina over a sandy com¬ mon, the termination of Olympus to¬ wards the W. becomes visible. Beyond it, on the same line, rises another mountain, which with Olympus and Ossa forms the barrier between Mace¬ donia and Thessaly. There are two places to the left of the road, within 1 hour of Katarina, where some frag¬ ments of sculpture and architecture are to be found. The views looking back to Katarina are very fine. The road ascends a hill, whence there is a beau¬ tiful view in the opposite direction of Mount Athos and Salonica, or on the opposite shore of the Thermsean Gulf. Kidros, 5 hours, a Greek village, and remarkably clean and neat, is the an¬ cient Pydna. In the plain before this town the battle was fought between the Romans and Macedonians, in con¬ sequence of which Macedonia became a Roman province. A conspicuous tumulus in the plain marks the spot. At this place Cassandra murdered Olympias the mother, Roxana the wife, and Alexander the son, of Alexander the Great. Leuterochori, 1 hour. A village on an eminence near the gulf, probably on the site of Methane. It was at the siege of this town that Philip lost his right eye. Lihanova, 2^ hours. The road now lies along the plain at the extremity of j the gulf of Therma, at some distance I from the shore, till it reaches the Ferry of the Indje Karasu, or Vis- tritza, the ancient Haliacmon, 2 hours, j This is a large river, crossed by a | flying-bridge. Mauronero or Karasmak Ferry, 3 hours. A similar mode of passage. This river is the ancient Lydias. Vardari River, .3 hours, crossed by a ; wooden bridge j mile in length. This river is the Axius, separating the ! Mygdonian from the Bottisean territory, ! where Pella, the birthplace of Alex- ander, stood. Tekale, 2 hours. Some antiquities are to be found about this place. Hence it is 2 hours to Salonica, where there is a small inn, \ kept by an Italian. I Salonica or Thessalonica, was more j anciently called Therma. Its walls 414 ROUTE 45. —SALONICA. give the town a very remarkable appear¬ ance, and cause it to be seen at a great distance, as they are whitewashed and painted. They enclose the city in a cir¬ cuit of 5 miles. The city retains the form of its ancient fortifications ; the lower part of the walls is Cyclopean and Helle¬ nic, while the upper part dates from the middle ages, being built of brick, with many ancient fragments intermixed. The wretchedness of the city within con¬ trasts with its external beauty, rising in a theatrical form upon the side of a hill, surrounded by plantations of cy¬ press and other evergreens and shrubs. The citadel stands in the higher part of the semicircular range. Cassander changed the name of this city from Therma to Thessalonica, in honour of his wife, a sister of Alexander the Great. It was the residence of Cicero during part of his exile —a classi¬ cal association, to which is added the more important Christian interest of St. Paul and his two epistles to the Thessalonians. The Citadel, called by the Turks the “ Seven Towers,” is the old Acropolis. Within this citadel are the remains of some Verde Antico pillars, and of a triumphal arch erected under Marcus Aurelius. The Propy- leeum of the Hippodrome, called by the Spanish Jews who reside in that quarter Incantadas, (from their idea that the figures on it were petrified by enchant¬ ment,) is a magnificent Corinthian colonnade of 5 pillars, supporting an entablature, with 4 void spaces between the pillars for the entrance into the Hippodrome or the Forum. Over the entablature is an attic, with figures in alto rilievo. Two of these figures seem to be Leda and Ganymede. Some of the Christian churches, now turned into mosques, are very interesting, and they can be seen without difficulty under the auspices of a chawass from the con¬ sulate. The three principal are—1. That called by the Greeks the Old Metro¬ polis ; it is a round church, built on the model of the Pantheon at Rome. Some have believed that this was originally a temple, consecrated to the mysteries of the Cabiri, and that it was built under Trajan. The inside is covered with Mosaic, like the dome of St. Sect. IV. Sophia at Constantinople. The ancient Hippodrome, a magnificent area, was situated between this church and the sea. Here took place the great mas¬ sacre of the Thessalonians by Theo¬ dosius, recorded in Gibbon. 2. In the Church of St. Sophia, which is now a mosque, corresponding in its propor¬ tions with its namesake at Constan¬ tinople, but of far less magnitude, are columns, and a Bema of Verde An¬ tico. There is a tradition that when St. Paul preached at Thessalonica he made use of this pulpit; others say he preached in a subterranean church be¬ neath. 3. The Mosque of St. Demetrius, once the metropolitan church, and built in the form of a cross. The whole of the interior was lined with marble, and on each side is a double row of Verde Antico pillars. The Mosque of Eske Djumna was once a temple sacred to the Thermean Venus. On either side were 12 pillars of the Ionic order. The 6 columns of the Pronaos remain, though almost concealed by the wall. It could be easily restored to its original form, and, next to the The- seum at Athens, would appear in more perfect preservation than any monu¬ ment of Grecian antiquity. The Gate of Vardar, or Vardari, was the triumphal arch of Augustus, raised after the battle of Philippi. This arch terminated a street that ran from east to west, through the town, at the farther ex¬ tremity of which is the Arch of Constan¬ tine, before the gate of Cassander. This latter is an ancient arch, now deprived of its marble facing, and become a mere tottering mass of Ro¬ man tile and mortar, thrown over the principal street towards its eastern end. The piers still retain their mar¬ ble facing, and are covered all around with a double range of figures in basso rilievo, representing the sieges, battles, and triumphs of a Roman emperor. Probably this arch was erected by Constantine as a monument of his vic¬ tories over the Sarmatians. The inhabitants of Salonica amount to 60,000, of which a moiety is nearly equally divided between Greeks and Turks, while the remainder are Jews, the descendants of those expelled from Macedonia. route 46 .—salonica to mount athos. 415 c • tV,« ViAoinninff of the 17th period. It terminates in three prongs Sir, xtiSSrS is stilf a cor- o». i,„o tl.e Sra an runted' Spanish Their outward dress called respectively Pallene (Cassandra , consists of the Ye?, or turban, and of a Sithonia (Longos ), and Acte tunic reacliin” to the ankles, and bound Athos). The last is described m lloute at the waist by a shawl or sash. The 47. Of these promontories the westein, drei ^f the women differs but little Pallene or Cassandra is the most rich from that of the men. A few Frank and fertile, the two others having in all merchants are settled at Salonica, be- ages been rugged and clothed with sides the consular body. There is a forests. Olynthus, and the other Gree - nasha a Tm-kish garrison, and a Greek cities of Chalc.dice, were conquered by archbishop Thcle are steamers to Philip of Macedon, and annexed to his Constantinople once or twice a week, dominions. . • hours Immediately on leaving Salonica, the The commerce'of Salonica consists country all round from the shore to the inIxport "e corn cotton, wool, to- hills is dreary and barren, but 2 miles bacco P bee? -wax and silk of Mace- from the city is a hill covered with vme- douia’ A British Consul resides here. 1 yards. 7 miles from Salonica we enter Salonica is subject to malaria, and the a smaller plain, the shore of which whole country at the head of the Gulf forms the inner angle of the gulf, is miserablv unhealthy. There is ex- This district was laid waste during the IS shotting in the neighbourhood, Revolution. Farther on. the road now includin'* pheasants, woodcocks, wild- lies over an undulating country ; a low including puecu formimr the boundary to fowl, &c. ROUTE 46. SALONICA TO MOUNT ATHOS BY CASSAN¬ DRA AND BACK TO SALONICA. The direct road from Salonica to Mount Athos is by Gulatista and Fieri ridge of hills forming the boundary to the C left, while on the right is the gulf, with Olympus rising majestically on the opposite shore : farther on may be distinguished Ossa and Pelion. We pass a few wretched hamlets: at length the prospect becomes more open, shelving downwards to the sea, and extending N. iMOUlil AlUUh is uy * aownwarub IO lilt hea, auu tAituum,, gohai the following is more circuit- t0 t i le hills, once celebrated for their • i __ r FV.^ /vwintrv nmilirmPQ OUS : Salonica to Pinaka (Potidsea) Calandria . (Return to Pinaka.) Haghios-Mamas Mecyberna Polighyro Ormylia . Nikita . . • Reveniko . Gomati Erisso (Acanthus) Mount Athos (Route 47) (Return to Salonica by) Nisvoro .... Elerigoba .... Galatista .... Salonica Hrs. 9 1 3 3 * 5 8 rich ores. The country continues barren and almost deserted. There aie some farms, or Metokhia, belonging to the monasteries of Athos. Pinaka, 9 hours, a village at the en¬ trance of the narrow isthmus which con¬ nects the peninsula now called Cassau- dra, and formerly Pallene, with the main land. A ruined rampart, with turrets, stretches from shore to shore, and is called the Gate (Porta) of Cassandra. We distinguish the Hellenic blocks of the wall which defended the once flou¬ rishing and warlike citj of Potidrea. This was a Dorian colony from Corinth, and became one of the proximate causes of th e Peloponnesian war. Potidseawas destroyed by Philip of Macedon, but _ j rebuilt by Cassander, who called the This route will enable the traveller new city Cassandria, after his own to see the most interesting portions of; name. Hence the modern appellation the peninsula formerly called Chalci- j of the promontory of Pallene. dice, because many colonists from Chal- modern village on this she is ca cis in Euboea occupied it at an early Pinaka. A marsh marks the place 416 ROUTE 46. —SALONICA TO MOUNT ATHOS. Sect. IV. where the port was once situated. After entering the peninsula, the traveller threads his way through brushwood till he reaches an eminence, whence the Toronaic Gulf breaks upon his view. Mount Atho^ appears between the pro¬ montory of Sithonia and the eastern horizon, and to the right are the forests of Pallene. At Athyto, 3 hours from the ruins of Potidsea, are some remains of Aphytis, one of the 6 or 7 ancient cities which once stood on Pallene. Before the Greek revolution the peninsula of Cassandra contained 700 families, 600 of which were small pro¬ prietors, and 100 families of farmers on the Metokhia of the monasteries of Athos. These 700 families were pro¬ prietors of 2500 head of oxen, besides flocks and herds to the number of 20,000 or 30,000. Such was the situa¬ tion of this peninsula when news ar¬ rived, in 1821, of the revolt in Mol¬ davia, followed by the intelligence of the rising of the Greeks in the south. The people of Cassandra then resolved to join the revolt. Finding, however, in the course of a few months, that no extensive region N. of Acarnania and Thermopylae had revolted, they re¬ pented the step they had taken, and despatched messengers to sue for mercy. However, finally, Abdulabul, the Pasha of Salonica, entered the pe¬ ninsula, put all the inhabitants to the sword, and razed their habitations to the ground. The peninsula was left wholly untenanted for 2 years, and has never recovered its former prosperity. Calandria, 5 or 6 hours. By advancing thus far, the traveller will see all that is interesting in the eninsula. Close to Calandria, on a eadland still called Posidio, are the remains of an ancient city—of course Posidium. Hence the traveller returns to Pinaka. Haghios-Mamas, 1 hour N. The vil¬ lage is hid among trees, but behind it appear four white towers, connected by mud walls. Here many relics of anti¬ quity are to be found. At all the wells there are fragments of columns, and two ruined temples exhibit numerous rem¬ nants of ancient temples, all of which, especially those of granite, have been severely damaged by fire. These nu¬ merous remains, together with their position, leave no doubt as to this being the site of the ancient Olynthus, once the chief city of Chalcidice. There are here many broken inscriptions on sepulchral stones; and at the entrance of the village is an altar, standing upright, but half buried. At a short dis¬ tance, among some small hills, is the ruined tower of a Metokhi, a struc¬ ture of 30 or 40 feet square, by 50 or 60, without windows, but crenelated all round, with a staircase within. This kind of tower precisely resembles those in the N. and E. of Asiatic Turkey. Similar towers are to be seen in Naxos. Mecyberna, now called Molibo Pyrgo, 1 hour. This was one of the towns of Sithonia. Polighyro, 3 hours, 10 miles, was one of the chief of the association of vil¬ lages which farmed the gold and silver mines of Chalcidice, now no longer worked. For an account of the mining municipalities of Chalcidice the traveller is referred to Mr. Urquhart’s “ Spirit of the East.” Ormylia, 3 hours, a small but very beautiful village on the edge of a small and rich plain. This is the site of the ancient Sermyle. JS'ikita, hours, a village at the N.E. angle of the Toronaic Gulf. It is scattered over a chasm worked in a hill of sand, which rests against a rock of the most singular character and ap¬ pearance; it is sparkling schist, cut out into grotesque forms. It is sometimes white, sometimes light blue. The skirt of the wood comes over the edge of the hill behind. The ruins of 280 houses are fancifully placed along the steep sides or on the terraces, or are con¬ cealed by orchards at the bottom of the chasm. On the side of the hill, in a small enclosure which once surrounded the church, stand seven white columns close together. The enclosure itself is nearly undermined, and below it hangs a column suspended across the road, having been caught or sustained by the bushes on each side. We now turn N., through a wild and beautiful country, and reach Macedonia. ROUTE 46. -ERISSO. 417 Reveniko, 5 hours. The little upland plain on which this village stands seems j to have been a lake, so perfectly level is 1 its surface, though the hills around are broken and rugged. This plain is j covered with all the trees that adorn the garden and orchard, the mountain and the forest. Gomati, a village scattered among fruit-trees and gardens, in the middle ot a narrow steep valley with abrupt and wooded sides. As this valley descends towards the S. it spreads into a circular } basin hemmed in by low and rounded hills, beyond which appear in the dis- j tance the sea and the cone of Mount Athos. Gomati formerly consisted of 230 houses. It has now barely 100. From Gomati, the road descends through the valley into the basin below. 2j hours across this little upland plain brings the traveller to the brow of broken ground, looking down on the j grassy lawn which encircles the village i of Erisso, the ancient Acanthus, situated j at the entrance of the promontory of Acte, now the Holy Mountain. ("Ayiov | ~'Opo;, or Monte Santo). A glorious j prospect now breaks upon the view, j The Holy Land of the Greek Church [ lies below, its swelling ridges richly j clothed with wood, varied by craggy J rocks and by the stupendous cone of Athos at the southern termination of the peninsula, shooting up from the sea to the pyramidal peak, on which, according to the tradition of the Orientals, the Tempter placed the Saviour, to show him “ all the kingdoms of the world and the glory of them and where the vivid fancy of a monk beheld—just before the Greeks rose in 1821 to recover their freedom and reli¬ gion—a cross of light, such as once appeared to Constantine. Across the Isthmus of Athos is the track of the Canal, through which the fleets of Xerxes steered, while his countless armies stood by. Far to the W. are Olympus, Ossa, and Pelion ; to the N. and E. are the peaks of Pangaeus. and the mountains of Thrace and Mace¬ donia. On either side of the peninsula of Athos are spread the Strymonic and ! Singitic Gulfs; the Toronaic Gulf is j concealed by the intervening peninsula | of Sithouia; but the Thermaic Gulf is visible. Far to the S. stretches the Egean, its hundred isles gemming its surface. Descending from the brow of the hill, by a very rough path over broken ground, the traveller reaches Erisso, a straggling village on the shore of the Strymonic Gulf, or Gulf of Contessa. The ruined fortress which surmounts the village is of mediaeval construction, but its foundations are Hellenic, as are also many masses of masonry around, and the remains of an ancient mole in the Strymonic Gulf, which still affords shelter to a few boats trading with Thasos or Cavalla. These vestiges of antiquity mark the site of Acanthus, one of the stations of Xerxes in his march, and one of the cities seized by Brasidas, that most chivalrous of Spartans, in his brilliant Macedonian campaign, in the 8th year of the Pelo¬ ponnesian war. Acanthus was origi¬ nally a colony of Andros. From Erisso, the traveller will begin his tour of the promontory and convents of Mount Athos, to accomplish which thoroughly he should allow himself about ten days, or even a fortnight. He will then return to Erisso, and may thence retrace his steps to Salonica, not by the circuitous route described above, but by the direct road through Nis- voro, Elerigova, Galatista, and Basilika. By this road, the journey from Erisso to Salonica, or vice versa, may be accom¬ plished in two long days. The best sleeping quarters are at Elerigova. These two routes, with the following, round Mt. Athos, will give the traveller a good knowledge of the peninsula of Ckalcidice, as it was called of old. From Erisso to Nisvoro is 5 or 6 hours. Instead of turning to the left after passing the isthmus, and striking across the hills to Gomati, the path lies northward and more into the interior of the country. Passing over some un¬ dulating ground, the traveller enters a richly cultivated town, surrounded by wooded hills. Some very fine plane- trees mark the courses of the rivulets. Hence there is a steep ascent to Nisvoro, and the path passes some heaps of burnt ore, which mark where silver mines were, till lately, worked by the T 3 418 ROUTE 47. -MOUNT ATHOS. Turks. They seem now to be ex¬ hausted, as are also the gold mines anciently worked in the neighbouring island of Thasos. Nisvoro (or Isboros, corrupted by running the final »into the next word (il s rov Iirfiopoii — cttov hrfZoplv — trr'o Nicrfitipi) is a Greek village of 300 houses, loftily situated on the southern face of a woody mountain, and commanding a fine pros¬ pect of Athos and the Egean. “ The position is very much that of an old Hellenic city, the height on which the town is built being detached in front of the mountain, and flanked on either side by a torrent. There are, more¬ over, vast substructions of Hellenic masonry all around, particularly in the beautiful glen to the W. That Stagirus was not far from Acanthus (Erisso) is rendered probable by their both having been colonies of the Andrians, and because when Acanthus surrendered to Brasidas in the Peloponnesian war, Stagirus immediately followed the ex¬ ample. (Thucyd. iv. 88.) I am aware that Colonel Leake is inclined to place Stagirus at the modem village of Stauros (Sraupds) near the shore of the Strymonic Gulf in the plain below; and that he is a bold man who presumes to differ from a writer who seems to hit off ancient sites by r a sort of intuition. Still I would venture to allege, in support of the claim of Isboros to the honour of having given birth to Aristotle, the universal tradition of the Macedonian peasants, and still more the very passage from Herodotus (vii. 115) cited by Leake himself. The historian states that Xerxes’ army, after leaving the Strymon, “ passed by,” i. e., left on one side, “ Stagirus, and then came to Acanthus.” Now there would not be room for so vast a host to pass in the narrow space between the modern Stauros and the sea; whereas it would be very natural that it should keep its course across the plain below, and leave on its left a town situated where Isboros now is. There is not much force in the argument from the similarity of the names, as Stauros means simply Cross, and as in England, so in Greece, is a very common appellation, or addition to an appellation of places. I would Sect. IV. fondly, therefore, believe that it was among the beautiful glens surrounding Isboros, that the young Aristotle was wont to wander, musing on those great principles of science and philosophy which dawned on his mind first of all men, like as the sun, when mounting above the horizon of his native town, pours its light on the peaks of Athos and Olympus, while the hills and valleys below are still buried in dark¬ ness.”— Bowen. 5 hours’ ride over soft greensward, and through scenery like that of an English park, will bring the traveller from Nisvoro to Elerigova, a large Greek village (there are no Mahomme- dans scarcely in Chalcidice), whose houses are clustered on a slope above a little plain. Hence it is 6 hours to Galalista, the road passing through a wooded and hilly country, many parts of which are very picturesque. Gala- tista is a tolerably large town, and the seat of a Greek Bishop. 7 or 8 hours’ ride hence over a dull undulating plain, with few houses, little cultivation and less wood (except round the village of Basi¬ lica), brings the traveller back to Sahnica. ROUTE 47. TOUR OF THE MONASTERIES OF MOUNT ATHOS. The complete tour of the monasteries of Mount Athos cannot be accom¬ plished in less than a fortnight, start¬ ing from and returning to Erisso (Acanthus). But the principal con¬ vents can be visited in a week as fol¬ lows :— Pay. From Erisso to Karyes, seeing Khiliandarion on the way . . 1 Visit Karyds and the neighbour¬ ing Convent of Kutlumusi, and then ride across the peninsula to the Convent of St. Paul. . 1 From St. Paul to Laura ... 1 From Laura to the Iberians , by Caracallus, See .1 From the Iberians’ Convent by Const anionites, Zograplius, Pus- sicon, '&c., to Esphigme'nu . . 1 From Esphigme'nu and Bato- padion back to Erisso ... 1 Days 6 Macedonia. 419 ROUTE 4 i .—MOUNT ATIIOS. Some travellers liire a decked boat at the town of the Dardanelles, and sail directly from thence to Mount Athos, coasting along its shore, and landing at the places best worth v isit¬ ing. If the traveller comes from Con¬ stantinople, he should provide himself with a letter of recommendation from the Patriarch to the Monastic Synod. This document can easily be procured by all Englishmen recommended by the Ambassador or Consul-General. If the traveller comes from Salonica he should at least procure a letter of recommendation front the English Consul there. A full account of Mount | Athos and of its monastic community will be found in Mr. Bowen’s Mount Athos, Thessaly, and Epirus, p. 51 seq., and in an excellent article in the Chris¬ tian Remembrancer for April 1851. Mount Athos, as well as the penin¬ sula on which it stands (the ancient Acte), is now known throughout the Levant as the Holy Mountain ("Ay«» ’’Of'.;, Monte Santo), from the great [ number of monasteries and chapels with which it is covered. There are 20 of these convents, most of which were founded during the Byzantine Empire, and some of them trace their origin to the time of Constantine the Great. Each of the different nations belonging to the Greek Church has one or more convents of its own; and the spot is visited periodically by pilgrims from Russia, Servia, Bulgaria, &c., as well as from Greece, Asia Minor, and Constantinople. The length of the peninsula is about 40 miles, and its average breadth about 4 miles. It is rugged and intersected by numerous ravines. The ground rises abruptly from the isthmus at the northern end to about 300 feet, and for the first 12 miles maintains a table¬ land elevation of about 600 feet, for the most part beautifully wooded. After¬ wards, the land becomes mountainous rather than hilly, two of the heights reaching respectively 1700 and 1200 feet above the sea. 4 miles farther S., on the eastern slope of the mountain ridge, but at a nearly equal distance from the E. and W. shores, is situated amidst vineyards and gardens, the town of Karyes or Karyte, the capital of the. Peninsula. Immediately S. of Karyes, the ground rises to 2000 feet, whence a ragged broken country covered with dark forests, extends to the foot of Mount Athos, properly so called, which rears itself in solitary magnificence, an insulated cone of white limestone, ris¬ ing abruptly to the height of 6350 feet above the sea. In very ancient times the peninsula of Acte was inhabited by Tyrrheno- Pelasgians,but several Hellenic colonies were planted along the coast. On the isthmus there stood Acanthus and Sane; and in the peninsula itself, there were five cities, Dium, Olophyxus, Acro- thoum, Thyssus, and Cleon®, and per¬ haps a few others. Slight vestiges remain of some of these towns. The Empress Helena, the mother of Con¬ stantine, is related by tradition to have been the first founder of Convents on Mount Athos. Succeeding emperors and other Christian princes adorned its valleys and woods with fair churches and monasteries, and many royal and imperial personages hav$ retired to these peaceful abodes to enjoy repose after the turmoil of the world. The Holy Society owe the privileges which they enjoy under the Turks to the foresight of their predecessors in sub¬ mitting, before the fall of Constanti¬ nople, to Mahomet II., who, in conse¬ quence, gave them his protection, which has been confirmed by the succeeding Sultans. The Community is allowed to maintain an armed guard of 40 or 50 Chi-istian soldiers. The only Ma- hommedan allowed to reside within the peninsula is a Turkish officer, who is the means of communication between the Sultan and the Monks. Even he cannot have a woman in his house ; all female animals being rigidly excluded. The general government of the Moun¬ tain is vested in the Holy Synod of Karyce ('H T ipci Iv Kapvais Imobof), the Caput, or Hebdomadal Board of Mount Athos, as Kary4s is the Washington of these Monastic United States. The Synod consists of 20 deputies, one from each convent, chosen by annual elec¬ tion ; and, besides these, of 4 “ Presi¬ dents of the Community” ('fxirrdrai 420 Sect. IV. ROUTE 47. -MOUNT ATHOS. tou K oivov), in whom the duties of administration are vested. These Presi¬ dents are taken from four different monasteries each year, so that in five years the cycle allows each of the 20 monasteries to name a President. There is a regular meeting of the whole Synod of 24 once a week ; at other times, the Presidents form a managing committee. One of the four takes precedence of the others, according to a fixed rotation, and is styled for his year of office, “the First Man of Athos” (o n pare; tov "Afavos'). This monastic congress superintends the civil affairs of the Mountain, takes cognizance of any matter in which the whole community is interested, and assesses on each con¬ vent its share of the tribute paid to the Porte in the place of all other taxes. It is a yearly sum of about 1500Z., which amounts to a capitation-tax of about 10 shillings, as the present num¬ ber of the monks averages 3000. Each convent has a number of lay-servants (called Hotr/jtixol, literally men of' the world) attached to it, and who are drawers of water and hewers of wood •—Gibeonites and Nethinim—for their brethren. Almost every comer is re¬ ceived as a Monk, or Caloyer, in one or other of the convents, and if he brings with him a sum equivalent to about 15L, he is exempt from menial service and from bodily labour on the convent lands. Only a small number of the whole body ever take Holy Orders; for though priests are exempt from all menial offices, still the duties of the Church service are so onerous that most prefer remaining simple Caloyers—the name given to all the inmates of the convents who have sworn to observe the statutes. For 3 years the new comer is a Probationer fjooi), after which he is admitted Father, or good elder (xakoyigos), on vowing obedience to the superiors, and to the rules of monastic discipline and asce¬ ticism. The Synod, as has been said, directs the general interests of the Community ; the revenue and internal government of each separate convent being entirely its own concern, as is the case with the colleges at Oxford and Cambridge. Most of the monasteries have estates in various parts of the Turkish do¬ minions, as well as on the peninsula. 10 out of the 20 are Coenobidf xoivo&m), and the other moiety are Idiorhythmic ( lliopfivtifoa .), (General Introduction, m.) In the Coenobia every single member is clothed, and lives on the same fare in the common hall or re¬ fectory (T pa-m^oi) ; and the government is strictly monarchical, being admi¬ nistered by an Abbot ('H yevftMs), elected by the Society for life, and con¬ firmed by the Synod at Karyae and by the Patriarch at Constantinople. The Abbots are generally chosen, not so much for their piety or learning, in which qualities most of the monks are pretty nearly equal, but for their capa¬ city of taking care of the worldly pros¬ perity Of the convent and its estates. On the other hand, the idiorhythmic convents are not monarchies, but, as the monks told Mr. Bowen, cojistitu- tional states (avvra.yn.urix.u.). These last are under the administration of War¬ dens (E virpovroi), two or three of the Fathers annually elected, like the officers of an English college, and who have authority to regulate only the finances and general expenditure of the Society. In the idiorhythmic convents bread and wine alone are issued from the refectory to all the members of the Society, who add to these commons in their own cells what each can afford to buy, each being nearly as much his own master as are the Fellows of Colleges at Oxford and Cambridge. The refec¬ tories or halls are mostly on the same plan, being large rooms, with tables all around. While the monks sit at meat, a deacon generally reads from a pulpit a passage from the Gospel, with a commentary in modern Greek. Like the refectories, the churches in the convents are all on the same plan, being of the graceful Byzantine archi¬ tecture, rich with domes, pinnacles, frescoes, mosaics, relics, ancient plate, and pictures of saints. Mr. Bowen says:—“At many of the convents of Mount Athos the monks gave me very curious woodcuts, representing the appearance of the buildings some cen¬ turies back, since which time they have Macedonia. ROUTE 47. -MOUNT ATHOS. 421 changed but little. Some of them are representations of attacks from Saracen corsairs, at whom the cannon in the towers are firing, with their muzzles pointed straight up in the air; and monks of gigantic size are hurling stones from the battlements, while saints and angels are taking part in the melee, and whales and sharks are swal¬ lowing up the vanquished and drowning infidels. The perspective and propor¬ tions of these woodcuts are very Chi¬ nese ; but the massive walls and fortress- look of the convents remind me of the description in Marmion of the monas¬ teries of Lindisfarne:— ' And needful was such strength to these. Exposed to the tempestuous seas, Scourged by the winds' eternal sway, Open to rovers fierce as they.’ should remember, however, that the primitive idea of monasticism was simply retirement from the world for the purpose of devout contemplation. This idea is still to a certain extent realised in the Greek monasteries; learning and intellectual exercises be¬ long to the Western orders. We must recollect, moreover, that men resorted to Athos, not for rest for the soul merely, as of old, but for tranquillity of the body and security from the infi¬ nite exactions and indignities of the Turkish rule. Most of the convent libraries are of the same character; \ they contain many handsome editions ' and MSS. of the Fathers; but they are generally very poor both in classics and in general literature. At the present ! day comparatively few of the Greek The cannon belonging to the monks of ; clergy are acquainted with the Fathers Mount Athos were taken from them by the Turks in 1821, as the Community made common cause with the Greek insurrection, and in consequence had 3000 Turkish soldiers quartered upon them until 1830. These unbidden and unwelcome guests do not appear to have done much wanton mischief, but the expense of maintaining them for nine years was almost ruinous, and many of the convents are only now be¬ ginning to recover from it.” Besides the twenty great convents, there is a very large number of places of ascetic retirement {\trxr,Tr,oia., cor¬ rupted into <7xr,na) in all parts of the peninsula, which bear the same rela¬ tion to the monasteries as the halls at Oxford bear to the colleges. Every nook and corner of the mountain is also filled with cells or hermitages (*sx- Xua.), and with little chapels and ora¬ tories. of their own church, and still fewer with the classical literature of their an¬ cestors. The libraries of Mount Athos have been well ransacked by Mr. Cur- zon (whose clever and amusing work, ‘ The Monasteries of the Levant,’ may be consulted on this subject), and pre¬ viously by Professor Carlyle and Dr. Hunt in 1801. The latter gentlemen state that the MSS. at that period amounted to 13,000, but that few of them were classical, and those few of slight value. They found, however, many curious and valuable ecclesiastical MSS. On the whole, it is possible, though not probable, that systematic researches in the convents of Mount Athos might discover some of the hitherto lost works of ancient writers. After this general description of Mount Athos, we shall proceed to chalk out an itinerary, starting from Erisso (Acanthus). It is, perhaps, the The libraries of the convents of I best course for the traveller to repair Mount Athos are mere closets, where in the first instance to the monastic the books are stowed away without the ! capital Karyes, which is 6 or 7 hours slightest care for their arrangement or | from Erisso, and there to present his preservation. In none of the monas-j credentials to the synod. A circular teries do any of the monks make use of letter of recommendation will then be their books; “ one part of us are pray- I given him to all the convents, and he ing, while the others are working in j will also be provided with mules, the fields” (}t (Av •xfo'nvxA^a, ot U guides,. &c. He will be everywhere ipya^iwt6a), being the reply given when I received with much kindness and a recent traveller inquired if there were I simple courtesy, lodged in the chief any learned men among them. We i room of the monastery, and entertained 422 ROUTE 47. —MOUNT ATHOS. Sect. IV. with fish, vegetables, rice dressed in various ways, cheese, sweetmeats, fruits, and very fair wine, made on the moun¬ tain. The monks seldom have meat to give a stranger, as they rarely eat it themselves; their spare diet, long church services, and oft-recurring fasts, making the pulses of men of 30 beat as if they were 60. The services in the convent churches last 6 or 7 hours every day ; on great festivals and fasts 11 or 12 hours, or even more, out of the 24. The monks seldom sleep more than 5 or 6 hours: going to their cells at 8 or 9 in the evening, they are roused at 2 a.m. by the beating of the sounding- board ( o-rifjbuvrpov ). Most of them never taste flesh-meat at all; on 159 days in the year they have but one meal; and at this, eggs, cheese, wine, fish, milk, and oil are forbidden them (though allowed on the remaining days), and their diet consists merely of vegetables and bread boiled in water. On no day- have they more than two meals. De¬ tailed information on all these points is given in the ‘ Christian Remembrancer ’ for April, 1851. It is to be observed that the carnivorous traveller may pur¬ chase meat in the bazaar of Karye's, as also an occasional cock from the neigh¬ bouring islands (no hens are allowed); and that he may carry his own larder with him in his tour round the pe¬ ninsula. At night the traveller’s couch will be spread with quilts and coverlets on the divan where he sat at dinner. The nightly incursions of whole families of certain insects will make him regret that the good fathers have been unable to exclude all female creatures of every kind and race from the holy peninsula. Breakfast will be served in the morning of nearly the same materials as dinner. On departure, each guest should make a small present to the lay-servants im¬ mediately attached to his service. In the smaller monasteries of the East— as at St. Bernard’s and elsewhere in the West—it is also usual to leave a present for the monastery itself, at least equal to what would have been paid for similar accommodation at an inn; but the large revenues of the monks of Mount Athos enable them to exercise hospitality without expecting such contributions from their guests. Half an hour after leaving Erissd the road passes one of the convent- farms (flnrfia.), situated on the brow of the low ridge which separates the plain of Erissd from the vale of Prdv- laka, as the peasants call the narrowest part of the isthmus; evidently a modern corruption (the accusative being, as usually in Romaic, substituted for the nominative) of Proaulax (n ^auka\), the canal in front of Mount Athos, exca¬ vated by Xerxes for the passage of his fleet. The features and breadth of this neck of land are accurately described by Herodotus (vii. 22),—“ the isthmus is about 12 furlongs across; it consists partly of level ground and partly of low hills.” The site of the canal is a hollow between natural banks, and several artificial mounds and substruc¬ tions of walls can be traced along it. It does not seem to have exceeded from 40 to 60 feet in width, and it has been nearly filled up again with soil in the course of ages. As, however, no part of its level is 100 feet above the sea, and as its extent across the isthmus is only 2500 yards, it might be removed without much labour. Such a work would be a great boon to the trading craft of these parts; for such is the fear entertained by the Greek sailors of the strength and uncertain direction of the currents round Mount Athos, and of the gales and high seas to which its-vicinity is subject, that scarcely any price will tempt them during the winter months to sail from one side of the peninsula to the other. Xerxes, in the opinion of Colonel Leake, was justified in cutting the canal, the work being very easy from the nature of the ground. Great losses had been experi¬ enced by the Persian fleet off Athos on a previous expedition ; and Xerxes had at his disposal vast numbers of men, among whom, too, were Babylonians and Egyptians experienced in such undertakings. The circumnavigation of the neighbouring promontories of Sithonia and Pallene was much more easy, as they afford some good harbours. For 2 hours beyond the canal the isthmus consists of low undulating Macedonia. 423 ROUTE 47. -MOUNT ATIIOS. ground without much wood. There are hereabouts several convent-farms, with good buildings, herds of cattle, substantial fences, and other signs of neatness and industry. In fact, in the East now, as in the West during the middle ages, monasteries are the chief agricultural seminaries, the principal encouragers and examples of industrial progress. The superintendents of these farms are all Caloyers, with lay-servants (*««■«,«i) under them. About 3 hours from Erisso, a steep but low ridge of hills stretches across the peninsula from sea to sea. Sur¬ mounting this natural barrier of the Holy Mountain by a zig-zag path, the traveller soon reaches the station of the frontier-guards, where a few soldiers of the armed body which the holy com¬ munity maintains in its pay are sta¬ tioned to keep out robbers, women, and female animals of all kinds. No mare, cow, she-cat, hen, &c., has been from immemorial custom admitted into the precincts of the Holy Mountain. This rigorous rule takes its origin partly from superstition and partly from policy. Many of the monks revere Athos as a place sanctified by many miracles, and which would be pro¬ faned, like St.Senanus’ island,in Moore’s Irish Melodies, by the presence of a woman ; but the more intelligent among them consider the prohibition necessary- only for the maintenance of ascetic dis¬ cipline. It is said, however, that the sanctuary has been violated of late years, and that the fair intruders were two of our own countrywomen, who landed for a short time from a yacht off the coast. From the station of the frontier guard it is 3 or 4 hours’ ride to Kanja or Kari/es. If the traveller pleases he may visit the monasteries of Khilian- darion, Batopadion , and Esphigmdnu, on the way. The most northern part of the peninsula consists of hills inter¬ sected by deep valleys, down which torrents "flow to the sea, the shore of which is beautifully indented by the most charming little bays. The hills are covered around with the fragrant and feathery Isthmian pine, and with every variety of shrub and flower. As we advance farther the foliage of the N. and the S. is blended in glorious variety, the olive with the oak, and the orange with the pine. Vineyards and gardens surround Karyse. and the hazel (A vr-oxapvci) from which the town pro¬ bably derives its name, is also very common. This tree is cultivated for the sake of the nuts, which form the chief export of the peninsula. Every one will recollect Mr. Curzon’s humour¬ ous description of the zeal with which one of the abbots pressed upon his notice the superior quality of his nuts. Karyse covers a large space in the midst of wooded declivities. I he Par¬ liament-house of the Monks is a mo¬ derate sized room, round three sides of which the deputies sit cross-legged on a divan, while at the fourth are ranged the secretaries and other attendants. Each of the 20 monasteries has a lodge at the metropolis, for the reception of its deputy when he comes up to par¬ liament, and of those of the younger monks who are attending the school which the Community has of late years established here—a step in the right direction. Ancient Greek, history, geo¬ graphy, &c., are taught by competent masters brought from Greece, and paid with tolerable liberality. Strangers will be as hospitably received in one of the lodges as in the convents them¬ selves. The principal church of the monastic capital (called re Vlp&iTa.'rov') is said to be the oldest edifice on the mountain, and is well worth a visit. The bazaar at Karyse resembles those of the other small tow-ns of Greece. Flesh-meat is sold here, as well as groceries, articles of clothing, &c. The traveller will be struck with the spectacle of a town without women, and of a market with¬ out noise. He will do well to purchase here a few crosses and other specimens : of the curious wood-carving of the in¬ mates of the convents and hermitages, j Each traveller must be guided by j his own taste, and the length of time at his disposal, as to which of the | monasteries he will visit. The most convenient course will be to give a short description of each, beginning at the j N.E. and ending with the N.W. ex- 424 Sect. IY. ROUTE 47. -MOUNT ATHOS. tremity of the peninsula. We repeat that it will require at least a fortnight to explore all the 20 monasteries, but the chief of them can be seen in a week. 10 are on the E. and 10 on the W. side of the promontory. 1. Khiliandarion (%i\iuv'%dpiov') is the most northern of the monasteries on the E. side of the peninsula. It is situated nearly a mile from the sea, in a vale watered by a torrent, and surrounded by pine-clad hills. The monks here are almost all Servians or Bulgarians, and a dialect of Slavonian is the only language spoken in the convent or used in the church service. Most of the monks are utterly ignorant of Greek. The name of this monastery is said (with little probability) to have been derived from its having been originally built for 1000 inmates fatys). The library is not extensive, and consists entirely of Slavonian books. In the muniment-room of this, as of some of the other convents, are preserved very ancient and curious charters and deeds of gift from Greek emperors and princes of Servia and Bulgaria, as well as fir¬ mans, promising protection, &c., from successive Sultans and Viziers. The pile of buildings is very extensive and picturesque, and this convent is one of the highest in estimation and wealth of the whole number. The original founders were two Servian ascetics ; but the principal benefactor was Stephen, king of Servia, and son-in-law of the Emperor Bomanus. 2. Esphigmdnu ('H Moth rou Eo-quy- fitov) is at the distance of half an hour from Khiliandarion, and is situated on the edge of the sea, at the mouth of a torrent in a little narrow valley, from which compressed position the name is taken. Part of the convent was once crushed by the fall of some overhang¬ ing rocks, and now it is being gradually undermined by the water. This mo¬ nastery was founded by Theodosius the younger, and his sister Pulcheria, in the 5th century ; but it was afterwards re¬ stored in the 11th. 3. Eatopcedion (Ba.voora.'itiot), pro¬ nounced Vatopethi, is 2 hours from the last-mentioned convent. It is the largest of all the monasteries, except Laura. | Its name is said by the monks to be derived from the following legend. The Emperor Theodosius was passing the promontory of Mount Athos with his fleet, when a sudden storm—so common in these seas—arose, and the galley in which his child was embarked, foundered. But the Holy Virgin—that “Star of the Sea ”—rescued the royal infant from the waves, and placed him under a bush (foocros) in the valley, when he was soon discovered by the afflicted Emperor, who had been driven into the little bay, where he afterwards erected a splendid monastery as a thank-offer¬ ing, and called it “ the Bush of the Child.” Such is the legend, invented, perhaps, to account for the singular name. The learned German traveller, Dr. Boss, believes that the name should be written Barovrlhov, and translates it JDornenfeld, i. e. the thornj mead. At all events, severer history records that this convent was founded by Constan¬ tine the Gx - eat, and was only restored by Theodosius, after it had beeu devas¬ tated by Julian the Apostate. It counts several emperors among its benefactors; one of whom, John Cantacuzene, ended his days here in the monastic garb. The monastery, with its lofty towers and battlements, its massive portals andiron gates, its numerous turrets and domes, many of them painted with variegated colours—-looks much like a feudal for¬ tress of the middle ages, or like one of the old fortified villages still to be found among the roots of the Alps. It is beautifully situated on a commanding height, separated from the shore of the sea by slopes, covered with plantations of olives and oranges. On the Holy Mountain, as elsewhere, the founders of monasteries have usually shown great taste in the selection of their sites. On a hill, near Batopsedion, are the extensive and picturesque ruius of a college, now deserted, but which, dur¬ ing the last century, when under the direction of the learned Eugenius Bul- gari of Corfu, attained such reputation that more scholars resorted to it from all parts of the Levant than the build¬ ing could lodge. But notwithstanding the advantages which a healthy situa¬ tion, beautiful scenery, and perfect se- Macedonia. ROUTE 47. —MOUNT ATHOS. 425 elusion, seemed to promise in Mount [ Athos, as a place of education, the friends of learning among the Greeks ■were soon obliged to apply their exer¬ tions elsewhere. The ignorant are generally persecutors of knowledge; the college was viewed with jealous eyes by all the vulgar herd of Caloyers ; and there were other objections to the Holy Peninsula, which, combined with the j former, proved at length the ruin of the | institution. Of late years, however, as we have seen, the community have i established a school at Karyae, but only for the education of the younger monks themselves. 4. Kutlwnush (Kiurkoufiouri) is about 24 hours from Batopaedion, close to Karyae, and in the most cultivable part of the peninsula, among gardens, vine- j yards, olive plantations, and cornfields. This is the smallest of all the convents, not containing above 30 caloyers. It was founded during the reign of Andro- nicus the Elder (ad. 1283-1328) by Constantine, a noble of the Turkish [ family of Kutlumush, related to the { Seljuk Sultans. His mother was a Christian, and on her death he embraced Christianity, and became a monk of Mount Athos. 5. Pantokrator ('H M«»« rov Tlavrt- j xparopas'), “the Monastery of the Al-I mighty,” is situated near the eastern shore of the peninsula, between Bato- j psedion and the Monastery of the Iberians. It was founded in the 13th century by Alexius, the general of Michael Palseo- logus, who recovered Constantinople from the Latins. 6. Stauroniketes (' H Mavw tou ^ravpovi- xirrou) is not far from the last-men¬ tioned convent; and was founded about a.d. 1540, by a Patriarch of Con¬ stantinople, in honour, as the name implies, of “ Him who conquered by the Cross.” 7. The Monastery of the Iberians ('H M«mi rut Ifhr.peuv) is 2 hours from Karyae, and on the eastern shore of the peninsula. It derives its name from having been founded by some pious and wealthy Iberians, under the charters of the Emperor Basil II. (a.d. 976—1025). Iberia was the ancient name of the country between the Black and Caspian seas, now called Georgia. This monastery is 3 hours’ ride from Batopaedion, and the small convents of Stauroniketes and Panto¬ krator lie near the route. From the Iberians’ to Laura, it is a beautiful ride of 5 hours, passing the Convents of Philoiheus and Caracallus on the way. 8. Philoiheus (’H Movii TOO QiXollov) was founded in the 10th century by a certain Philotheus, in conjunction with two other persons. 9. Caracallus (’H Mov) roZ K a.pa~ xdxxov) was founded in the 11th cen¬ tury, during the reign of Romanus Diogenes, by a certain Antouius, the son of a Roman Prince, named Cara¬ callus. 10. Laura ('H Aaupa) is the largest of all the 20 Monasteries, and is situated at the southern extremity of the peninsula. The term Laura,* in ecclesiastical Greek, signifies a convent; and the title was applied, par excellence, to the first in size and dignity among the monasteries of the Holy Mountain. Laura was originally the retreat of Athanasius, a hermit who lived in the 10th century ; but it was subsequently enlarged and enriched by the munifi¬ cence of many emperors and other benefactors. Though ranking first of all the monasteries in dignity, it is now inferior in wealth to several others, because its property was chiefly situated in southern Greece, and was confiscated under the government of Count Capo d’lstria. The solitude and silence of its vast quadrangles speak to its poverty and decay. Among the rocks and woods around are scattered many cells and hermitages dependent on it. Like the other convents, Laura has the appearance of a fortified village, and is entered by a long, winding, vaulted passage, guarded by several massive * A avpa, in ancient Greek, is “ a lane,” the Latin angiportus. Hence the term came to be applied in ecclesiastical Greek to “ monachorum cell*, quae cum sejunctae sunt, vias et angi¬ portus quodammodo formant.” (Ducange, Gloss. Welcker refers \afivpiv9o<; to the same root.) So Dr. Wordsworth derives the etymology of Laurium, the mine district of Attica, from “ a place of lanes” (Aavpelor), that is, a mine of shafts cut into streets, like a catacomb. 426 ROUTE 47. —MOUNT ATIIOS. iron gates. At the small harbour below is the arsenal i roZ Xiva- »i roZ pi'iou) was founded during the reign of Nicephorus Phocas, by a monk named Euthymius, who had been lieceiver of Laura. 19. Constamonites (’h Msvsj toZ K«v- aTnuoilrw) is a small convent founded, according to the most probable account, in the 11th century; but also said to derive its name from Constans, son of Constantine the Great (quasi Kaitdravres It is situated in a rocky romantic wilderness to the left of the road be¬ tween Karyae and Zographus. 20. Zographus ('H Mor/i roZ Zmyeu.ipou') is a convent of Servian and Bulgarian monks, founded by several Slavonian nobles in the 9th century, during the reign of Leo the Philosopher. The church is noted for a miraculous picture of St. George, which conveyed itself from Palestine without human aid, like the Sacred House of Loretto. The monks declare it to have been painted by divine will, and not by the hands of men, whence the monastery was dedi¬ cated to the Zographus, or Painter. There is a small hole near the eyes of this picture; and the good fathers re¬ late the following legend, probably in¬ vented to account for it long after it was made—just as Niebuhr conjectures that many of the stories in Roman history were framed to account for names already given. Once on a time a free-thinking bishop came here from Constantinople, and doubting the divine origin of the painting, struck his finger in derision through it;—when, wonder¬ ful to tell! he was unable to withdraw the presumptuous member from the sacrilegious hole, and was at length obliged to have it cut off. Zographus is situated in an inland valley, at some distance from the sea, and is the most northern of the con¬ vents on the western side of the penin¬ sula. It is 2 hours from hence across the central ridge of Esphigme'nu, whence the traveller can return in 4 or o hours to Erissd (Acanthus). “ It has been our object in these pages to exhibit Mount Athos neither as an idealist might wish to view it, nor as an humorist might be apt to carica¬ ture it, but in its own mixed character of beauty and grotesqueness, ignorance and religion. Much that is laughable on paper fails to provoke a smile when it is acted in simplicity and seriousness before our eyes. Nor do we believe that any traveller of ordinary intelli¬ gence would return from the mountain with a ludicrous impression predominant in his mind. The picturesque tourist will reap no small pleasure from wan¬ dering among its woods and glens, and peeping into the quaint and quaintly peopled buildings with which they are spotted. The antiquarian will revel in a perfect cabinet of Byzantine monuments, charters, and imperial seals, illuminated manuscripts, elaborate reliquaries, paint¬ ings, forms of architecture, and the like, which he might search the world in vain to parallel. To the ecclesiastical student belong the incongruities; but to him also belongs the greatest share of interest. He will find the religion of the middle ages still living and breath¬ ing in the 19th century, with its many miracles, its simple credulity, its cum¬ brous ceremonial, its dense ignorance. He will see the long services of the Eastern church fully and reverently per¬ formed by congregations in which many cannot perfectly understand them. He will see a severe rule followed by all; a severer one attempted by some, and admired by those whose aim is below it. He will see peasants where he looked for monks ; and then discover those to be monks whom he had judged to be peasants. He will find no theologians, yet all orthodox ; zeal and readiness to defend the faith without weapons of learning; and at last, in spite of all ap- 428 ROUTE 48. -SALONICA TO SCUTARI. Sect. IV. parent decline, and laxity, and ignor¬ ance, and superstition, lie will recognise in the monastic peninsula the very heart and kernel of the Eastern church.”— Christian Remembrancer for April 1851. ROUTE 48. SALONICA TO SCUTARI, BY MONASTIR, ELBASSAN, AND CROIA. This is a very interesting route, and will lead the traveller through some of the finest scenery and most famous spots of Mace donia, and of northern or Illy¬ rian Albania. It follows partly the Via Egnatia of the Romans. It can be ac¬ complished in a week, as it is a menzil road, and there is rarely any difficulty in procuring tolerable horses; but 10 days or a fortnight may profitably be devoted to it. The following is an approximation to the time required by a traveller pro ceeding at a moderate speed :— . Hours. balomca to Yenidje (Pella) Vodhena (Edessa) Ostrovo Monastir (Pelagonia) Resna .... Akhrida Kukussa Elbassan 'l'yrana .... Croia .... Alessio .... Scutari ....... Making in all about 10 or 12 days. Travellers may take this way of returning from the East. There are steamers f’-om Syra and Constantinople to Salonica, and also from Cattaro to Trieste—Cattaro being only 3 days’ journey from Scutari (Route 39). Be¬ fore starting, the traveller had better_ besides his regular Turkish passports— procure letters of recommendation from the English consul at Salonica to the governors of Monastir, Elbassan, and Scutari. Leaving Salonica by the Vardari gate, we reach in 4 hours—riding over an undulating plain—a long wooden bridge over the broad Vardari river, 10 9 4 * 9 6 4 11 10 10 7 8 7 the ancient Axius. Thence we con¬ tinue, chiefly over a level country, for 6 hours more, and then arrive at Yenidje or Jannitza, not far from the remains of Pella, the birth-place of Alexander the Great, and long the re¬ sidence of the ancient Macedonian kings. Yenidje is a good specimen of Macedonian town-scenery, being situ¬ ated in groves of rich foliage, over¬ topped by shining white minarets, with here and there a few mosque domes, begirt with tall dark cypresses. There is a tolerable khan here. After leaving Yenidje we continue to ride over the central plain of Mace¬ donia, through much the same sceuery as before, backed by the high stern mountains beyond. Cultivation in¬ creases as the road approaches the val¬ ley of the Karasmak* or Mavron€ro (the ancient Lydias), which it crosses by a bridge. Thenceforward the country becomes more and more thickly studded with groups of planes and various other trees, until the traveller comes in sight of Vodhena (9 hours), the ancient Edessa. A more beautifully situated place can hardly be imagined. An amphitheatre of mountains forms the background of the picture, while in front the town stands on a long ridge of wooded cliff, with mosques and min¬ arets sparkling above, aud waterfalls glittering down the hill side, not un¬ like, as Mr. Lear observes, the Casca- telle of Tivoli. The road ascends from the plain to the town, under spreading walnut and plane trees shading the winding paths and rushing streams. From the proud height on which this ancient city stands, the combination of wood, plain, and mountain is most lovely; and when the atmosphere is clear, and all the majesty of Olympus and the Gulf of Salonica are visible, few scenes in Greece possess such beauty and grandeur. It was a fitting- home for that royal house of Macedon, des¬ tined to conquer the Eastern world. 2Egse and Edessa are, no doubt, to be considered as identical, the former being KarasmaJc is the Turkish, and' Mavronero the Greek name. Both words signify Blackwater. 429 Macedonia, route 48. —saloxica probably the older form of the name. It was the original centre of the Mace¬ donians, and the residence of the royal house; and, though the seat of govern¬ ment was afterwards transferred to Pella, in the plains below, yet Edessa always remained the national sanctuary, and the burial place of the kings. From its commanding position on the Egnatian Way, and at the entrance of the passes into Illyria and Upper Macedonia, this town continued to be of importance under the Roman and the Byzantine Emperors, when its name was changed to Vodhena (BoW«). Notwithstanding its ancient importance, the remains of antiquity are few; the site, from its natural advantages, has been always oc¬ cupied by a town, and new buildings have caused the destruction of their predecessors. A remnant of the Hel¬ lenic fortifications may be observed in the wall of one of the modern houses on the edge of the cliff; and many scat¬ tered fragments have been discovered in the town, among which are some in¬ scriptions of the period of the Roman Empire. From Vodhena to Ostrovo is 4 hours. The route lies at first through a narrow cultivated valley, on the left bank of the Karasmak, or Lydias. Then, cross¬ ing the river, it rapidly ascends the mountain-side, and the whole pass to Ostrovo is full of wild beauty. Looking back over Vodhena, the great plain of Macedonia is unrolled like a map as far as the hills about Salonica. Ostrovo is a little village by the side of a mountain-lake. It possesses a small khan, which will suffice for a mid-dav halt, but should be avoided for night quarters. The scenery all around is magnificent. Hence the road to Monastir lies round the head of the lake ; and then mounts upwards by a zigzag path, whence there is many a wide and brilliant view. For 2 hours more we proceed by brushwood-covered hills to some bleak downs, where we pass a village on the left. Half an hour farther is a magnificent view of another lake, that of Castoria, the ancient Celetrvm. The lake is 6 miles long and 4 broad. The TO SCUTARI.-MONASTIR. town and fortress of Castoria stand on the site of Celetrum, that is, on a pen¬ insula running out into the middle of the lake. The decayed fortifications are of Byzantine construction; and Anna Comnena has given an accu¬ rate description of the place as it ap¬ peared in a.d. 1084. It would be worth while to diverge from the direct route between Ostrovo and Monastir for the purpose of examining this curious and picturesque town. Such a deviation would not require more than 2 addi¬ tional days. After losing sight of the lake of Cas¬ toria, the shores of which are beauti¬ fully indented and varied with promon¬ tories and bays, while the lines of the hills on all sides are exceedingly grace¬ ful, we proceed for 3 hours over bare slopes, unbroken by the least variety of interest. The village of Tilbeli, 6 hours from Ostrovo and 3 from Mo¬ nastir, boasts a tolerable khan. For 2 hours more the road leads over desolate uplands, stony and treeless; and then it descends to the great plain of Mo¬ nastir or Bitolia—the military centre and capital of modern Macedonia and northern Albania, and placed near the site of the ancient Pelagonia. After the desolate country through which he has lately passed, the traveller will find the white minarets and extensive gardens and buildings a refreshing sight, as the city seems to expand on his approach¬ ing the high mountains at the foot of which it is built. Monastir (or Bitolia) contains about 14,000 inhabitants, and is the metro¬ polis of these remote provinces, a pre¬ eminence justified by its commercial activity aud prosperity. An Knglish Consul resides here, and quarters can be procured in private Christian houses as well as in the khans, Monastir is also a place of great importance, as com¬ manding the direct entrance from Northern Albania into Macedonia, and as a military position from which Thes¬ saly and Epirus are also accessible. There is a garrison of regular Turkish troops ; and, after passing through so wild and thinly peopled a region, “ you are bewildered by the sudden re-appear- 430 ROUTE 48. -SALONICA TO SCUTARI.-AKHRIDA. Sect. IV. ance of a civilization which you had apparently left for ever — reviews, guards, bands of music, pashas, palaces, and sentry-boxes, bustling scenes, and heaps of merchandise await you at every turn.”— Lear. The glitter of outward appearance is usually exchanged on entering Eastern towns for squalor and wretchedness; and the traveller is, therefore, agreeably surprised at the great extent of barracks and other public buildings at Monastir; at the width and good pavement of the prin¬ cipal streets, and at the general cleanli¬ ness and neatness of the houses. The bazaars are handsome, and crowded with buyers and sellers. The Turks resident in Monastir are for the most part either military or officials. Greeks and Bulgarians form the majority of the inhabitants. There are a few Al¬ banians, and a considerable number of Jews. The peasantry in the northern districts of Macedonia are chiefly of Bulgarian race and language, though they belong to the Greek Church. Hence that region does not come within the scope of the present work (see Handbook for Turkey). “ The natural beauties of Monastir are abundant. The city is built at the western edge of a noble plain, sur¬ rounded by the most exquisitely shaped hills, in a recess or bay formed by two very High mountains, between which magnificent snow-capped barriers is the pass to Akhrida. A river runs through the town, a broad and shifting torrent, crossed by numerous bridges, mostly of wood, on some of which two rows of shops stand, forming a broad covered bazaar. The stream, deep and narrow throughout the quarter of private houses and palaces, is spanned by two good stone bridges, and confined by strong walls; but in the lower or Jews’ quar¬ ter, where the torrent is much wider and shallower, the houses cluster down to the water’s edge with surprising pic¬ turesqueness. Either looking up or down the river, the intermixture of minarets and mosques with cypress and willow foliage form subjects of the most admirable beauty.”— Lear. After leaving Monastir, 5 hours are consumed in winding through two val¬ leys or passes shut in between lofty hills. Then the road—a wide stony track—emerges into a valley, which opens into a plain, disclosing at its southern extremity a bright lake walled in by lofty mountains. Westward, the charming village of Peupli or Presba, embosomed in plane and chesnut, and spangled with two or three glittering minarets, enlivens the scene with all the characteristic loveliness of Eastern landscape. Resna, about 6 hours. It is 4 hours from hence to Akhrida, over the central ridge of the Pindus chain. We climb by a constantly winding staircase round the eastern side of the pass; and from the summit we look back over “ the lake of Peupli to plains beyond plains, and hills, and Olympus beyond all; the whole seen through a frame, as it were, of the gnarled branches of silver - trunked beeches crowning the ridges of the hills, whose sides feather down to the lake in folds of innumerable wood screens.” Less than J an hour is occupied in crossing the summit of the pass — a narrow, rocky upland, interspersed with stunted beeches. Soon a new world charms the eye ; and on arriving at the western or Illyrian face of the ridge, the plain and lake of Akhrida burst, as it were, into existence; “ bright, broad, and long, lies the great sheet of water—the first of Grecian lakes—and on its edge the fortress and town of Akhrida (in form singularly re¬ sembling the castle rock of Nice in the Sardinian States), commanding the cul¬ tivated plain which stretches from the mountains to the shores of the lake.” The descent from the pass is very steep; and the road then leads over a fertile tract of gardens and pasture land to the town of Akhrida, which preserves the name of the ancient Akhris, on the Lake Lychnitis. The town is built at the northern end of the lake, on three sides of the Castle-hill, and along the margin of the water. The fortress, towering over the houses, and commanding a splendid prospect, contains the residence Albania. ROUTE 48. —KUKUSSA TO TYRANA. 431 of the governor of the district. Among his train will be remarked many of the crimson-vested Ghegs of Illyrian Al¬ bania. This costume is the most splendid of the splendid Albanian dresses. The lake is surrounded by mountains on all sides ; far away, at its southern end, glitter the white walls of the convent of Naum, 6 hours’ journey from Akhrida. From Akhrida to Elbassan the road lies westward by the shore of the lake, and in 2 hours reaches St r uga, a picturesque village, not far from the egress of the river Drin, the ancient Drilo, which flows into the Adriatic near Alessio. From hence we proceed through groves of chesnut until, quit¬ ting the vicinity of the lake, we toil for" 3 hours up a pass, walled in by low hills covered with stunted oaks. A tedious descent succeeds, and then 2 hours of a narrow dull valley. A khan, 7 hours from Akhrida, is convenient for the mid-day halt. The surrounding J country is desolate and almost uninha- j bited. After passing a range of low | hills, we come to the valley of the Skumbi (the ancient Genusus), a stream winding through rugged scenes of crag and forest. 3% hours from the khan mentioned above we cross the river on | a high single arch, and ascend the heights on the left hank, where is placed the straggling village of Kuhussa, 11 hours from Akhrida. There is a khan here which must serve as night-quarters. Hence it is 10 hours to Elbassan. The route continues to ascend on the left bank of the Skumbi, and advances by precipitous paths along the mountain¬ sides. There is a mid-way khan about 5 hours from Kukussa. Hence, after 3 hours of winding along frightful paths at the edge of precipices and chasms, and through scenery of the same rugged character, we descend to the valley, and cross the Skumbi, here a formidable stream, by one of those lofty one-arched bridges so common in T urkey. 2 hours more are occupied in threading a pass between rocks, admitting only a narrow pathway beside the stream. After 1 hour’s further ride through widening uncultivated valleys Elbassan is in sight, among rich groves of olives on a level plain, through which the Skumbi, now an unobstructed broad river, flow's to the Adriatic. The same deceptive beauty throws its halo over Elbassan as over most other Oriental towns : they are wretched and forlorn within, as without they are picturesque and graceful. Elbassan, 10 hours from Kukussa. This is probably the representative of the ancient Albanopolis, so called from the neighbouring tribe of Albani, W'ho may perhaps have given their name to Albania, just as an Epirot tribe, the Grajci, has given its name to Greece. The modem Elbassan is singularly pic¬ turesque in its outward appearance. A high and massive wall, with a deep outer moat, surrounds a quadrangle of dilapi¬ dated houses; at the four comers are towers, as well as two at each of the four gates. All these fortifications are of me¬ diaeval construction, and are now entirely dilapidated. Indeed few places can afford a more utter picture of desolation than Elbassan ; though the views from its broad ramparts are perfectly exquisite. The suburbs are scattered over a large extent of ground; and there is a curious old bridge, full of irregular arches, over the river. After threading a variety of lanes and gardens, the road from Elbassan north¬ ward to Tyrana winds through the narrow valley of a stream tributary to the Skumbi; then it ascends the face of the mountain which separates the terri¬ tory of Elbassan from that of Tyrana. The views from the summit, both north¬ ward and southward, are exceedingly grand. ' Thence the road descends to a broad undulating valley. Afterwards it continues for 2 hours along the banks | of a torrent enclosed between fine rocks. Then, fording the stream, it gradually ! descends over low hills to the plain of I Tyrana. In front, the long rugged range of the Croia mountains is magni¬ ficently interesting from picturesqueness and historical associations. Here was the country which gave birth to George Castriot, better known by his Turkish name of Skanderbeg; and here he made his last gallant stand against the Infidels. Tyrana, 10 hours from Elbassan. This small Albanian town contains one 432 ROUTE 49.-SALONICA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. Sect. IV. or two remarkably picturesque mosques, and its immediate neighbourhood is delightful. There are several khans; and quarters may also be procured, as elsewhere, in private houses. By the direct road Tyrana is not more than 7 or 8 hours from Alessio; but every traveller should diverge from the straight path to visit Croia, the city of Skanderbeg. Leaving Tyrana, the road proceeds northward by a broad green path, and through a wide valley. At 4 hours’ distance it reaches a khan, whence the path to Croia diverges on the right, and occupies about 3 hours more. It ascends to the town by a winding path through woods, and then by a sharp climb up the great rock round which the houses cluster and hang. Croia, 7 hours from Tyrana. “ Few prospects are more stately than those of this renowned spot; and perhaps that of the crag, with its ruined castle pro¬ jecting from the great rocks above, and lording over the spacious plain country north and south from Scodra towards Durazzo, reminded me more of Olevano, that most lonely landscape in a land of loneliness, than any place I ever saw. At the base of this isolated rock lies the town-—a covered semicircular line of bazaars; and overlooking all is the Bey s palace, and a tall white minaret against the blue sky.”— Lear. (For the history of Skanderbeg, see Gibbon .) It takes 3 hours from Croia to regain the regular post-road, and 5 hours more, through tracts of wooded country, to Alessio, the ancient Lissus (Route 38). From hence it is 7 hours to Scutari , or Scodra (Route 38). ROUTE 49. SALONICA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. There are steamers once or twice a- week, stopping at the Dardanelles and Gallipoli, and reaching Constantinople in 36 hours. By land the journey will occupy from 6 to 8 days at least. Hours. Clisali . 7 Buyuk Beshek . .2 Kutchuk Beshek. r\ i_ Hours. Orphano •••».«,. q Khan Kunarga.. Pravista. . 2 k Cavalla (Neapolis). 3 2 Ferry over the Nestus, or Kara'su 4 Yenidje. . Gummurjine .•.g Phereh. jg Kishan. g Malgara. 4 £;nigik. -Ills Kn.od.osto ... . # m # # # a Eski Erekli.. S4ivria. .3 Buyuk Tchedmadjeh.. Kutchuk Tchedmadjeh .... 3 Constantinople.. 107i Leaving Salonica by the eastern gate, the road passes close to a large tumulus, and some remains of antiquity. It then passes through a defile, at the summit of which are seen the ruins of a fortress, and part of an aqueduct,—thence, as it crosses, a plain, the small Lake of St. Basil is seen to the right. Quitting this plain, we ascend some hills S.E. and reach Clisali, 7 hours. The road now crosses a fertile level. Two remarkable natural rocks rising perpendicularly from the plain look like Cyclopean ruins. The road passes between them, and descends to the lake of Bolbe. Buyuk Beshek, or Greater Beshek (called by the Greeks Besikia), 2 hours, is a town, situated on the lake, com¬ manding a beautiful view, and on the site of the ancient Bolbe. Coasting the shores of the lake, we arrive at Kutchuk Beshek, Little Beshek, hr. The view here is beautiful, and the town, situated on a promontory, has something of the character of Swiss scenery. The road enters a defile after passing the extremity of the lake. Right, are the ruins of a monastery. The rocks rise to an immense height, and are covered with plane-trees and oak. A khan is reached in 15 hour. (From this place it is 16 hours to Mount Athos.) The road proceeds along the Macedonia. 433 ROUTE 49.-CAVA shore, and doubling a point of land, the N.E. side of the Sinus Slrymonicus comes in view. On the opposite side of the gulf are the ruins of Amphipolis, near the village of Neochorio. The river Strymon, the boundary of Macedonia and Thrace, is crossed by a flying bridge. The road now passes through the ruins of Amphipolis, con¬ sisting chiefly of walls more of Roman than of Greek masonry. The remains of an aqueduct and traces of the Acro¬ polis may be seen. Amphipolis was a colony of Athens, and played a con¬ spicuous part on the stage of ancient history. It was situated on an emi¬ nence on the eastern bank of the Stry¬ mon, just below its egress from the Palus Cercinitis (also called Lake Prasias), and about 3 miles from the sea. The Strymon flowed almost around the town, whence the name Amphipolis. At an earlier period it was called the Nine Ways olol ), from the many roads which met here, and it belonged to the Edonians, a peo¬ ple of Thrace. These barbarians frus¬ trated the earlier attempts of Arista- goras of Miletus and of the Athenians to plant an Hellenic colony in this im¬ portant position ; but the Athenians at length effected a settlement in b.c. 437. The city surrendered to Brasidas b.c. 424, but Thucydides, the historian, saved the port Lion, at the mouth of the Strymon. He was exiled by his countrymen for not saving Amphipolis also. The Athenians sent an expedi¬ tion to recover the city in b.c. 422, which failed; Cleon and Brasidas were both killed in the battle. Amphipolis was annexed to his dominions by Philip of Macedon, in b.c. 358. The Romans made it the capital of one of the four districts into which they divided Mace¬ donia. It was situated on the Via Egnatia, between Thessalonica and Con¬ stantinople. Serres is 9 hours N.W. of the site of Amphipolis. Orphano, 8 hours. It is situated at the foot of one side of a ridge, and Palseo Orphano on the other. It is a poor village, with a small fortress on the side of the hill. Numbers of fine ancient medals and coins have been found here. The road now lies E.N.E. Greece. LLA (xEAPOLIS). over a plain, which is highly cultivated. Many Turkish villages and fountains are seen. Khan of Kunarga, 4 hours. The mountains left are high and massy. Near Kunarga are fragments of ancient columns, which are also visible in the Turkish cemeteries near the road. At the end of the plain are six or seven fountains upon one spot. Leaving these, a paved road ascends a hill, whence there is a fine view of Pravista in a defile, and beyond it of the great plain of Serres, which supplies Salonica with her exports of cotton and tobacco. Serres contains 20,000 inhabitants, and is on the site of the ancient Sirrha;. Pravista, 6 hours. A dirty, wretched town. The road descends into the plain of Serres, crossing it from S.W. to the N.E.; left are the mountains of Drama, near which are situated the ruins of Philippi, consisting of the ruins of an amphitheatre, a number of Soroi, the colossal remains of a temple of Claudius, and some enor¬ mous marble columns. The celebrity of Philippi as the scene of St. Paul’s imprisonment with Silas a.d. 53, and his having addressed an epistle to its inha¬ bitants, will cause the place to be re¬ garded with feelings of no common in¬ terest. Here also Octavianus and An¬ tony gained their celebrated victory over Brutus and Cassius in b.c. 49. Philippi is called by the Turks Feli- hejik. Cavalla, 3 hours from Pravista. This place was Neapolis, where St. Paul landed, after his voyage from Troas, from the island of Samothrace. It is situated on a promontory, with a port J on each side; hence its advantageous situation as an emporium of maritime j commerce, which is now confined to the I exportation of cotton and tobacco. A large aqueduct on two tiers of arches | still remains; it conducts water from Mount Pangseus to the citadel. Two I precipices of this mountain advance so near the sea as to form narrow defiles, the passages of which were once closed and defended by walls. Opposite is the island of Thasos. The celebrated Mehmet Aly, Pasha of Egypt, was a native of Cavalla. U 434 ROUTE 49.-YENIDJE.-GUMMMURJINE. Sect. IV. The road now ascends a part of Mount Pangseus by a paved way, with a fine view of Neapolis. Left, the top of the hill is covered with ruined walls, and the ancient aqueduct here crosses the road. We descend by a paved road, and see S.E. the Isle of Thasos, E. the high top of Samothrace, and S. Mount Athos. Leaving the bay, we cross another mountain, and see as we descend an ancient gateway. The road now traverses a dreary plain to The Ferry of the Nestus, or Karasu, 2 hours. Yenidje, in Greek lannitzu, 4 hours, •—a town of 200 houses. 2 hours from Yenidje the sea enters the plain by a narrow mouth, and forms a salt-water lake. At the northern extremity of it is a picturesque ruin of an abbey or monastery of great magnitude. Frag¬ ments of Grecian sculpture hare been found here. The lake was the Palus Bistonis. Left, is the range of Rhodope. There are many cemeteries and tombs of Turkish saints on this part of the route. The wells in Thrace are fre¬ quently curious, consisting of an arch, whence a covered flight of 10 or 15 steps leads to the level of the water. l£ hour from Gummurjine we pass some ruins. Gummurjine, 8 hours, is a large town of 1000 houses, carrying on an inland commerce in corn, tobacco, cotton, and wool. The road hence traverses a dreary plain for 2 hours, and arrives at a bridge of 8 or 9 arches. 1^ hour farther it reaches an ancient bridge of 8 arches, over a small river. Farther on, the road ascends a mountain in an easterly direction. This wild region is on the heights once inhabited by the Cicones, who assisted Priam against the Greeks. In this mountain pass the road is fre¬ quently paved, being the old Roman Highway from Rome to Constantinople. A fine view presents itself of the Egean, and the isles of Samothrace, Imbros, and Lemnos ; and I hour before reach¬ ing Phereh there is another fine prospect of the Gulf of iEnos with Samothrace End the islands of the Egean. Phereh, 16 hours, situated on the E. side of Mount Serrium. This town was within the district of the Cicones. % hour hence w r e arrive at the Ma- ritza (the Hebrus), which formerly divided the Cicones and the Apsynthii. The great maritime plain watered by the Hebrus was called Doriscus, from an ancient .town on the neighbouring coast. On a part of it the forces of Xerxes were reviewed previous to their descent upon Greece. We continue over the same plain to Kishan, 8 hours. Situated at the E. extremity of the plain of Hebrus, near the termination of the chain of Rho¬ dope, Kishan carries on considerable inland commerce. A hilly and stony road leads to Malyara, 4 hours. This part of Thrace resembles the steppes of Southern Russia; it con¬ tains large tumuli, similar to those seen in Tartary. A hilly and dreary road leads to Yenigik, 8 hours ; and then to Rhodosto (4 hours), the ancient Pi¬ san the. This is a large town on the Propontis, or Sea of Marmora. It con¬ tains no antiquities. The road lies over the same bleak country to Eski Erelili, 9 hours. Tumuli are in sight the whole way. 2 hours before reaching Eski Erekli, to the right, are the ruins and the port of the ancient Perinthus. The place is called Buyuk Erekli, and the port is fit for large vessels. Leaving Eski Erekli, the old Roman road, paved with black marble, is in many parts entire. Selivria, 3 hours. Here there is a bridge of 30 arches. The road now lies along the shore of the Propontis. Buyuk Tchedmadjeh , or the Great Bridge, 6 hours, has a series of 4 stone bridges, over which, and along the paved way, the road passes the town by a lake. The harbour is spacious. Kutchuk Tchedmadjeh, or the Little Bridge, 3 hours. A village by the sea¬ side, surrounded by marshes, and liable to malaria. It commands, however, a fine view of the Sea of Marmora. Hence to Constantinople is 3 hours. Constantinople (Handbook tor Turkey). Macedonia. route 50. —scutari to Constantinople. 435 [ROUTE 50. SCUTARI TO CONSTANTINOPLE. Tyrana. Hrs. Elbassan .... Akhrida. Monastir. Perlepi. Kiuprili. Romanova .... Egri Palanka Kustendil .... Dubnitza .... Banja. Tatar Bazarjik . Philippopolis . Hermanll .... Adrianople .... Hrs. Eski Baba.10 Tschorlu.. Selivria.8 Constantinople.12 There is a road from Scutari by Pris- rend, which joins the high road at Romanova. It is 6 hours shorter than the other, but is very bad and moun¬ tainous. The road between Scutari and Mouastir is described iu Route 48 ; for the remainder of the route here given, see Handbook for Turkey. It is a wearisome journey, and like the preceding route, will hardly repay the traveller. He had better proceed in all cases by sea from Constantinople to Salonica, and thence chalk out his further travels in these provinces. U 2 NOTES ( 436 ) NOTES OF A VISIT TO MAINA IN 1844. (See Section II., Route 17.) “ The most curious part of my Greek tour as yet has been Maina, a dis¬ trict resembling no other part of the civilised world. It is, at least in its wilder parts, covered with feudal towers. Around each tower a village has arisen, built by persons anxious to avail them¬ selves of the protection of the chief, composed partly of his kindred, partly of his vassals, and all assuming his name, so that they form a distinct clan. Every village is at feud with its neigh¬ bour, and every tower contains a chief, who lords it, more or less, over the ad¬ joining territory. In the towns, as for instance at Kita, the system is most curious. Kita is the city of towers. These towers are at constant war with each other, and a system of vindictive hostility prevails, though now declining, such as no other part of the world can present. An idle taunt, an imprudent boast on the part of a clansman, is suf¬ ficient to embroil two clans ; the offend¬ ing individual is slain on the spot, and the family of the murdered man, instead of claiming redress by legal means, lies in ambush for the murderer, or any of his family, and assassinates him. An¬ other death is then required as an ex¬ piation by the aggressive clan, and thus a system of endless retaliation begins, and men lie in ambush for hours, some¬ times for days together, insensible to cold, hunger, and fatigue, whilst waiting to assault an enemy whom, perhaps, they have never seen, and who is an enemy simply because he belongs to a particular clan. To such an extent is this system of vengeance carried, that, men have sometimes remained for years in their tower, never venturing to quit it, because they belonged to a particular clan, and were consequently marked out as objects for certain destruction. I was told of men w'ho had been horn in their tower, married in their tower, lived to the age of seventy, and died in their tower, without ever having once ventured to quit it. Conceive such an unparalleled state of things. I saw myself two unhappy gentlemen walking along the battlements of their tower, which they never quitted, and, I was told, could never venture to quit. Their relative had been betrothed to the daughter of a neighbouring chieftain. Another chief carried her off, and their relative, according to the usage of the country, assassinated him, but being less powerful fled to Zante ; his family, however, do not venture to leave their tower, as, if they did, certain destruc¬ tion would await them. According to Maina custom, two, and sometimes four, men walk these towers night and day, for the double purpose of guarding against any hostile attack, and of shooting any rival clansman that might happen to pass beneath, and this, of course, in the towns is frequent. The towers constructed for defence are, as you may suppose, sombre enough; they are lofty, with many loopholes to fire from, with scarcely any windows, and those half blocked up with stones. One creeps through a door made designedly so low, that entrance into the tower is a'matter of difficulty. One then stands in a lofty room arched over, a winding staircase runs up one side of the tower, and is so narrow, that a man can only ascend with great caution, as there is no balustrade : this leads to an opening in the arched roof, and then ladders conduct through two successive stories to the battlements, so you may conceive these towers are almost impregnable. But if the towers are sombre, as indeed might have been expected from the purposes for which they were con¬ structed, the villages are stern, gloomy, and even awful in their appearance. The streets consist of high walls of stones, piled upon each other; the windows high, infrequent, small, and, 437 NOTES OF A VISIT TO MAINA IN 1844. like those in the towers, half blocked up with stones; no door opening into the street, but the path to the house leading almost under ground, between dreary piles of stone, through a very low entrance into a court, purposely encumbered with defences and obstruc¬ tions of every kind, and commanded by loopholes, &c. Then, when arrived at the house, you have to ascend either a heap of stones, or steps most rudely constructed, to the door, which is ex¬ tremely low, in one sense of the word, being sometimes not three feet high, yet placed so far above the base of the house as almost to touch the roof. Creeping in through the door, you de¬ scend again, and find yourself on the floor of the apartment; and these strange entrances sometimes usher you into spacious rooms. Everything, in short, is constructed with reference to defence, marks a state of habitual hos¬ tility, and impresses the min d with an idea of gloom, and sadness, and stern existence, that can scarcely be con¬ ceived. I was obliged to take a large escort, and was accompanied by a Maina noble, sent with me by the governor, as he was a chief well known, and one who enjoyed a terrible reputa¬ tion, having killed numbers in ambush. As a proof of the very different light in which the Mainotes view a species of assassination which we should hold in horror, when I asked him how many men he had killed in ambush, he re¬ plied, “ It would not be delicate or becoming in me to tell you.” I was struck with an instance of the strange operation which this most extraordinary system has had in fettering the natural powers of the mind. "When near Cape Matapan, I asked a peasant some ques¬ tion of local interest, which any one £tc- quainted with the locality must neces¬ sarily be supposed to know. He could not however answer my question, and, on my expressing surprise, replied, “ How should a man know anything about the country who has been shut up in a tower all his life ?” Tire Mid- notes have, however, great virtues. The chiefs treated me in their towers with unbounded hospitality, a virtue not much in fashion in other parts of the Morea; their women were never injured in their most sanguinary wars, and an insult offered to a stranger under their protection is a most inexpiable cause of feud. The state of things I have described is, however, breaking down, and will soon disappear, at least to a great extent; the government are moving heaven and earth to put it down, and by the assistance of the great chiefs, whom they are buying over, will ultimately succeed. They attempted it at first most injudiciously, and sent a Bavarian army into the country, who were beaten, obliged to surrender, stripped, and publicly sold by the Mai¬ notes, some at fivepence, others at twopence a-head : a creditable transac¬ tion for the royal house of Bavaria. A government man now quakes at the very name of Maina. However, while I was there, the government troops, for the first time, were obtaining some ad¬ vantages. About a fortnight before I came, some of the clans burst like a flood on Marathonisi, took the town, and seized the government chest; but they afterwards were defeated, and many towers were destroyed while I was there. INDEX. ABACUS. A. Abacus, 24. Abadia, 464. Abas, 216, 219. Academy. See Ancient Athens. Acadhimia, 196. Acanthus, 417, 419. Acamania, abundance of game in, 80; mountains, 95, 116. —— and jEtolia, Tour in, 245. Acfaaia, 120. Achamae, 204. Achelous, river, 81, 90, 108, 232, 247, 249 ; source, 407 ; good shooting at the mouth, 81. Acheron, river, 115, 388, 390, 391 - Acherusian plain, 388, 390. Achmet-Aga, 227. Acrata, 297 ; Khan of, 242. Acrasphium, 231. Acroceraunian Mountains, 6j, 402; a week’s tour in the, 4°i- Acro-Corinthus, 123, 125, 126; Byron’s description, 123. -Nauplia, 258. Acropolis of Amphipolis, 433. Anthedon, 229. Argos, 263. Athens, 136, 137, 139, 141, 143. Axos, 359. Buthrotum, 381. Calydon, 248. Carda- myle, 276. Chasronea, 213. Corinth, 123. Daulis, 215. Eieusis, 244. Hyrtakina, 369. Lamia (Zeitun), 218. Larissa, 263. Leuctra, 276. Monembasia, 273. Mt. Panas- tolium, 246. Mt. Viena, 246. Mt. Zygos, 245. Myeenas, 261. Orchomenus, 216, 296. Thalasama, 367. Platasa, 212. Porta, 251. Sdlona, 236. Sa- lonica, 414. Samos, 339. Sicyon, 243. Acrothoum, 419. Acte, 75, 207, 415. Actia, 385. Actiacus, 385. Actica, 207. Actium, 115, 385 ; remains of, 248. Actius, 385. Adam, Sir F., statue of, at Corfu, 65. a:gean. Adamopulos, Yani, (travelling servant,) 129, 130. ACgae, 242, 428. ASgaleos, Mt., 205. AIgean Sea, islands of the :— geographical position, 303; tour in, 114; Syra best head-quarters, 304; steamers, accommodation for travel¬ lers, &c., 304; Admiralty Charts, 342. Islands belonging to Greece. Amorgos (Amorgo), 321. Anaphe (Nanfio), 321. Andros (Andro), 312. Ceos (Zea), 313; Helena, or Macris (Macronfsi), 314; Gyaros (Gioura, Joura), 314; Belbina. (St. George), 314, Cimolos (Argentiera), 317. Cythnos (Thermia), 3x4. Delos (Dili), 307. Icos (Chilio- dromia), 327; Xeronfsi,Piperi, Jura, Pelagonesi, 327. los (Nio), 319. Melos (Milo), 3x7; Anti- Melos, 319. Myconos (Mycono), 311. Naxos (Naxia), 322 ; Donussa, Keros, Mdcares, Heraclea, Skinussa, 323. Oliaros (Antiparo), 325; the Grotto, 325. Paros (Paro), 323; churches, 324; marble quarries, 324; Parian Chronicle, 324. Peparetbos, Scopelos (Scopelo), 328; Glossa, 328. Pholegandros(Polycandro),3X9. Sciathos (Sciatho), 328. Scyros (Scyro), 326; Scyro- pulos, Chamelonnesos, 327. Seriphos (Serpho), 3x5. Sicinos (Sicino), 319. Siphnos (Siphanto), 316. Syros, Syra (Sira), 306; Old Syra, 307. Tenos (Tino), 310.. Thera (Santorin), 320; The- rasia, 321. Islands belonging to Turkey. Astypalaea (Stampalia), 341. Calymna (Calimno), 340. Carpathos (Scaipanto), 347. Casos (Case), 348. Chalce (Chalki), 343. Chios (Scio), 334 ; “ Homer’s School,” 33j ; sufferings in AXJEAN. the War of Independence, 336. Cos (Stanco), 341 ; Admiralty Charts, 342. Crete (Candia) : — History, actual condition, popula¬ tion, &c„ 349 ; at the out¬ break of the Revolution, 350 ; Sphakia, 351 ; tragedy of Mumies, 353, 354; sta¬ tistics, 354; religion, &c„ 354 ; Excursions: Khania, Canea, (residence of the British and other consuls,) 355 ; Khania by the Bay of Suda, Aptera, &c„ to Rhi- thymnos, 356; Rhithymnos by Axos and Tylissos to Megalo-kastron, 358; Me- galo-kastron by Arkhanes, Kani Kastelli, Sarko, &c., back to Megalo-kastron, 361; Megalo-kastron by Khersd- nesos, Spinalonga, &c„ to Hierdpetra, on the S. coast of the island, 362 ; Hierd- petra along the S. coast of the island, and then by the ruins of Gortyna to Rhithym¬ nos and Khania, 363 ; Khania through the W. districts of Crete, including Sphakia, 364. St. Paul's visit to Crete, 372 - Icaria (Nicaria), 337; Co- rassiae, Corse® Insulas (Phumi), 337. Imbros (Imbro), 331. Lemnos (Stalimene), 330; women, 331 ; St.-Strates, 331. Leros (Lero), 340. Lesbos (Mytilene, Metelin), 331 ; residence of a British consul, 333. Nisyros (Nisyro), 342. Patinos (Patino), 339; church and library, 340; grotto where St. John is said to have written the Apocalypse, 34 °. Psyra (Psara), 333 ; destroyed in the War of Independence, 333 , 334 - Rhodos, Rhodes (Rodi), 344 ; residence of a British consul, 344; historical notice, 344- 346; the Colossus, 345; connexion with the Knights INDEX, 439 AEGEAN. of St. John, siege by Soly- man, 345 ; climate, 346; the city, 346 ; excursion round the interior, 347. Samos (Samo), 337. Samothrace (Samothraki), 329. Syme (Symi), 343 - Telos (Episcopf), 343 . Tenedos (Tenedo), 331 ; La- gussae (Rabbit Islands), 331. Thasos (Thaso, Tasso), 329. Egeus, 151. Egiale, 321. JEgilia, 98. Egilips, 89. Egina, 253. The Town, 254. Library, 254. Lazzaretto, 254. Temple of Jupiter Panhelle- nius (or Minerva), 254. JEginetan marbles, 255. Eginium, 408. Egira, 242. JEgium. See Yostitza. Egospotami, battle of, 199. Enesidemus, birthplace of, 360. Janos, Mt., 73, 95. Eolus, 311. Esculapius, 193, 217, 256, 324, 342 - Ethalia, 335. Ethraea, 344. Aet( 5 , 251. Etolia, mountains of, 95, Ji6. Etolia and Acamania, Tour in, 245. Aetos, 83, 86; valley, 251. •-to Alyzea, 251. Afales, 89. Agd, 28. Agamemnon, 260; tomb of, 261. Aganippe, Fountain of) 212. Agathussa, 343. Aghios Petros, 248. Agfru, 67. Agolonitza, 292. Agora, Athenian, 180, 187; Hippodameian, 201 ; of Tithorea, 217. Agrsean Hills, 23. Agrapha, mountains of, 50, 247. Agraulium, 147. Agraulos, Grotto of, 147, 155. Agribiliand, 365. Agriculture, 109. Aguzi, 370. Akhrida, Akhris, 430. Akketzeli, 410. Akrata, 296. Akrotcri, 355, 365. Akroteria, 95. Aktd, 366. Albani, 431. Albaniapresent division, 49, 393, 400 ; population, 375 ; skeleton tours, 380 ; direc¬ tions for travelling, accom- ANCHESMCS. modation, &c„ 379; pass¬ ports, 8, 376; boats and packets, 376; money, 376 ; shooting, 69, 376; Lear's sketches of Albanian land¬ scape, 1, 39J, 403, 404, 405, 432 . Albanians origin, 47 ; dis¬ tricts occupied by, 106; language, 49,378 ; tribes, 49 ; character, 50, 106, 108, 376 ; costume, 45, 378 ; maimers, 377, personal appearance, 378 ; dances, 378. Albanita;, 48. Albanopolis, 431. Alcams, birthplace of, 332. Alcimus, 201. Alcyonian Lake, 259. Alessio, 400. Alexander the Great, birthplace of, 413. Alexander of Corfu (travelling servant), 130. Alexander, Fort, 78. Alexius, Emperor, 400. Ali Tchelebi, 119, 293. Alika, 269, 275. -to Tzimova, 276. Ali Pasha of Joannina, 382, 383, 395 ; his history, 396. Alitsdpulo, 357. Aliveri, Gulf of, 221. Alpheus, river, 23, 289, 291- 293 . Alphitopolis, 200. Alyzea, 251. - to Aetos, 251. Amaliopolis, 410. Amantia, 397. Amaxichi, 77 ; olive-wood and festas, 77. Ambracia, 389. Ambrakia, 247. Ambrysos, 216, 240. American female schools at Athens, 131. Amnatos, 364. Ampelakia, 206, 411. Ampelia, 226. Ampelussa, 364. Amphiaraus, 221. Amphiclea, 217. Amphimalla, Amphimallion, 357 - Ampbipolis, 433. Amphiprostyle-tetrastyle, 156. Amphissa, 236. Amphites, river, 289. Amphitrite, 307. Amphrysus, 240. Amyclaa, 271, 272. Amygdalo, 368. Anaceium, 147. Anactorium, 248, 385. Anagyrus, 208. “ Anastasius,” portrait of the Greeks from, 107. Anatolico, 232, 249. Anchesmus, 137, ARCH. Andilalo, 292. Andocides, 198. Andritza, 224. Andritzena, 291. -to Kalabryta and Megas- pelaeon, 293. Andronicus Cyrrhestes, Horo¬ logium of, 178. Andrussa, 281. - to Nisi, 282. Angels, church of the (Athens), 134 - Anhydrus, 203. Anoge, 81, 83, 89. Anoptea, 216, 218. Anopolis, 371. Antte, 24, 183. Anthea, 282. Anthedon, 229. Anthemura, 338. Antinous, 265. Antiochus Epiphanes, 191. Antipater, 200. Antipatria, 398. Antipaxo, 70. Antipho, birthplace of, 220. Antiquities, Ephor or Conser¬ vator of, at Athens, 135. -at Corfu, 57. Antirrhium, 120. Antissa, 332. Antisthenes, 197. Antivari, 401. Aims, river, 396, 398 ; source, 407. Apelauron, Mt., 259. Apelles, birthplace of, 342. Aphrodisium, 190, 197, 200. Aphytis, 416. Apodiilo, 364. Apokorona, 356. Apokuro, Lake of, 245. Apollo, 80, 205, 237, 309, 319; Egletes, 321 ; Epicurius, 288, 291; Lycius, 197; Smintheus, 313- Apollo and Pan, Cave of, 147, Apollonia, 362, 398. Aposelemi, river, 362. Apostoli, 221. Apsus, river, 398. Apsynthii, 434. Aptera, 357. Aqueduct of Hadrian, 196; Nicopolis, 387. Arachne, Mt., 257. Arachova, 238. Aracthus, river, 389; source, 407. Aracynthus, Mt., 232, 245. Aradena, 372. Aratns, 200. Araxus, 293. Arcadiahills, 23 ; central plain, 264 ; town, 288, 361, 363 - Arcesine, 321, 340 - Arch, true principle of the, known to the ancient Greeks, 27, 250, 272. 440 INDEX, ARCH. Arch of Augustus, and of Constantine, Salonica, 414; of Hadrian, 191. Archilochus, birthplace of, 323. Archipelago, 303. Architectural terms, 24. ArchitectureByzantine, 35. Corinthian, earliest authentic instance of, 191. The three Grecian orders, 26. Hellenic, 24; remains of Hellenic Mili¬ tary in Cephallenia, 71 ; Messene, 280; Phigaleia, 290. Tenian, 311. Architrave, 24. Archon, 29. Arcudi, 89. Areopagus, Court, 102, 193; hill, 137. Areopolis, 275. Arethusa, Fountain of, 86, 87. Argonauts, 330. Argos, 262. Acropolis, 263. Theatre, 263. Roman ruin, 263. Temple of Venus, 263. Cave of Apollo, 263, 264. --to Athens, 113. -to Mycen®, 262. -— to Nauplia, by Tiryns and Mycenae, 259. --plain of, 262; (Casos), 348. -- Amphilochicum, 247. -(Calymna), 348. -(Nisyros), 348. Argostoli, 74, 116; curious phenomenon—the sea flow¬ ing into the land, 75. Argyro Kastro, 394. Aria, 257. Arson, birthplace of, 332. Aris, river, 282, 283. Arisbe, 332. Aristomenes, 281. Ariston, birthplace of, 313. Aristotle, 197 ; birthplace of, 418. Arkddi, 361. Arkdssa, 348. Arkhdnes, 361. Armatoles, 30. Armenopoulos, 101. Army, 104. Armyro, 357, 362, 410. Amaout Belgrade, or Beligrad, 398. Arnaouts, 48, 50, 51. Arne, 213. Aroanius, river, 296. Arsenal, 104. Arsinoe, 363. Arta, 389; river, its source, 407, Artemira, Mt, 346. Artemis Eucleia, 189 ; Laphria, 248; Leros, 340 ; Munychia, 201 ; Propyltea, 206 ; Tauro- polium, 337. Artemisium, 228. Arundel Marbles, 324. Arvf, 363. ATHENS. Ascension, chapel of the, at Corfu, 67. Ascra, 212. Asine, 259. Ask^fo, 370, 371. Asomato, 275. -to Port Kaio, 276. Asomatos, 364. Asopos, 273. Asopus, river, 211, 212, 221. Asphaltum of Selinitza, 402. Aspis, 263. Aspraspitia, 236. Aspri Ruga, 403. Aspropotamo, river, its source, 407 - Assembly of the Ionian Is¬ lands, 56. Assos, 73. Astacus, 250, 251. Asteris, 89. Astros, 268, 298. Asty. See Ancient Athens. Astypalsea, 339, 342. Atabyros, 346. Aterra, 73. Athamania, 407. Athena Archegetis, 179; Cha- linitis, 125 ; Nike, 155 ; Po- lias, 171, 174. Athens the best head-quarters for a traveller, 16 ; enjoys a drier atmosphere than any other province, 108. Modern Athens, 129. Plan for the disposal of four days in Athens and its vicinity, 136. Hotels, 129. Lodging- houses, 129. Coffee-houses, 129. House-rent, 129. Tra¬ velling Servants, 129. The “ West End ” of Athens—residence of the English Minister, 129. Prin¬ cipal thoroughfares, 133. Shops, 130. Population, 130; its heterogeneous composi¬ tion, 134. Women, 134; Maid of Athens, 133. Acropolis, 136. Palace, 133. Senate, 133. Chamber of Deputies, 133. Univer¬ sity, 132 ; Library, 132. Ob¬ servatory, 133. Cathedrals, the Old and the New, 134. Churches, 134. English Church, 130. Pro¬ testant Cemetery, 131. Schools:—Normal, 132. Polytechnic, 132. American Female, 131. Infant, 132. Risari Ecclesiastical Semin¬ ary, 132. Gymnasium, 132. Coins, choice collection of, 132. Booksellers, 130. Maps, 130. Bankers, 130. Physicians and Surgeons, 130. English teacher of Modern Greek, 130. ATHENS. London Custom - house agents, 130. Relics of Mediaeval Athens, 114- Character of the Athe¬ nians, 134. Ancient Athens :— Situation, 137. Influence of the soil and climate upon the build¬ ings of the city and the man¬ ners of its ancient inhabit¬ ants, 137. Byron's descrip¬ tion of an Athenian sunset, 138. Dr. Holland s picture of Athens, 138. Athenian landscape, 138. History of the City, 139-142. Divisions, extent, population, &c., 142. Chapel of St. George, 137. Lycahettus, 137, 202. Acropolis, 137, 139, 141; restored, 143. Its topo¬ graphy, 143. Finest views of, 144. Before the Persian invasion, 143. Ground-plan of the Acropolis and the im¬ mediate neighbourhood, 146. M. Beule's excavations, 146, 149. Fountain Clepsydra (Empedo), 147. Cave of Apollo and Pan, 147. Pelas- gicum, 144, 147. Caverns in the Long Rocks, 147, 148. Grotto of Agraulos, 147, 155. Temples : Minerva, 145-147 ; Nike Apteros (Victory with¬ out Wings), 148, 151, 155, 136; Augustus and Rome, 153. Eleusinium, 148. Ci- monium, 148, 134. Diony- siac Theatre, 148, 192, 193. Propyla-a, 149, 152, 156-158. Account of Pausanias, 151. Pedestal of Agrippa, 151. Pinacotheca, 151, 157. Re¬ markable absence of parallel¬ ism among the several build¬ ings, 152. Gigantomachia, 154. Parthenon (Hecatom- pedon), fine view of, 154; ground-plan, 158; its archi¬ tects, 159; extensive pro¬ spect from the western steps, 160 ; Pronaos and Naos, 161, 164 ; statue of Minerva, 153, 153, 162 ; Opisthodomus, 164; Posticum, 164; measure¬ ments of the Parthenon, 164 ; pediments, 165; metopes, 166; Panatbenaic Frieze, 167; remarkable deviation from rectilinear construction, 168; historical notice, 170. Erech- theum, 154, 170 ; its founda¬ tion connected with the origin of the Athenian re¬ ligion, 170, 171 ; existing ruins, 172; restoration by M. Tetaz, 172 ; ground-plan, 173 ; Temenos, 175. Pre- INDEX, 441 ATHENS. sent state of the Acropolis, 176. Asty (Lower town), its topography, 176. Positions of the Gates in ancient Athens: Achamian, 177; ,'Egeus, 17S; New Agora, 179; Diochares, Diomeia, Dipylum, 177; Equestrian, 17s ; Erian, 177; Hepta- chalchon, Itonian, Melitian, Piraic, Sacred, 178. Chro¬ nology of the buildings in the Asty, 173. Horologium of Andronicus Cyrrhestes (Tower of the Winds), 178. Athena Archegetis (Gate of the New Agora), 179. Gym¬ nasium of Hadrian, 180 ; of Ptolemy, 181. Theseum, 182 ; sculptures, 18} ; Na¬ tional Museum, 185. Nym- pb*um(Hill of the Nymphs), 185. Pnyx, 177, 185 ; Bema, 186. Agora, 187 ; Ceramicus, 187. 196. Museum, 177, 138 ; Monument of Philopappus, 189. Fountain of Callirrhoe (Enneacrunus), 189. Pana- thenaic Stadium, 189. Olym- pieum, 190. Arch of Ha¬ drian, 191. Choragic Monu¬ ment of Lysicrates, 191. Prytaneum, 191. Lenseum, 192. Odeum of Pericles, 192; of Herodes or Kegilla, 197. Dionysiac Theatre, 148, 192 ; from a coin, 197. Areopagus, 177, 197 ; its connexion with St. Paul, 194. Academy, 196; Muller’s grave, 196. Aque¬ duct of Hadrian, 196. Ly¬ ceum, 197. Piraeus and the Port Towns, 197. Drjko, 197, 200. Stratiotikf (Zea), 197, 200. Fandri, 197. Phalerum, 197. Munychia, 197, 198, 200. Emporium, 197, 200. Eeti- onia, 198, 201. Phaleric wall, 193. Long walls, 142, 198, 199. Cantharus, 197, 200. MacraStoa, 200, 201. Deigma Stoa, 200. Alphitopolis, 2co. Kastella, 198, 200. Tomb of Themistocles, 201. Phre- attys, 201. Karaiskdki’s Monument, 201. Environs of Athens. —Mt. Pentelicus (ital. Mendeli, Penteli), 202. Hymettus (Ital. Monte Imetto, M. Matto), 207. Phyle, 207. Pass of Daphne, Eleu3is, Sec., 205. Athens and the Piraeus; with their environs, 129. Athens to Argos, 117. -to Chalcis direct, 227. -to Corfu, 114. -to Hydra, 114. BATHING. Athens to Lamia (Zeitun) by Marathon, Thebes, Delphi, &c„ 209. -to Marathon, Rhamnus, Oropus, and Decelea, 117. -to Megara by sea, 247 ; by Eleusis, 244. -to Nauplia by Poros, Hy¬ dra, Sec., 298. -to Patras, 112. -to Patras, by Corinth,Vos- titza, Delphi, and Meso- longhi, 272. -to Sparta, 257. -to Sunium, 207. Athos, Mt,, 418. See Mo¬ nasteries. Athyto, 416. Atoko, 89, 248. Atreus, Treasury of, 261. Attani, 80. Attica, tour in, 207. Atzikolo, 239. Aulemona, 97. Aulis, 222, 224. Aulon, 290, 793, 402. Austria, Don John of, 91, 120. Austrian Lloyd's Steam-packet Company, stations of their vessels, 122. Authorities quoted, vi. Avariko, 790. Avdo, 711. Avlike, 222. Avlona, 798, 402. - by Khimaru to Butrinto, 407. Axius, river, 417. Axos, village and river, 759. B. Baba, 411. Babaka, 269. Babuliana, 768. Bacchus, 247, 299, 727. Bac¬ chus wine, 722. Bacchylides, birthplace of, 717. Bacon, Lord, on the Greeks, 45. Bagalokhori, 758. Bakshish, 779. Bala, Mt., 287. Baldouni, 406. Balimbey, 251. Balyra, river, 287, 289. Bank, National, 170. Bankers at Athens, 170. Baphyrus, river, 417. Bardouniots, 272. Bari, 208. Barnabas, Mt., 220. Bardti, 69. Base (architectural), 25. Basil, Emperor, 268. Basilikd, 242. Basilike, 767 ; Bay, 76. Bassa Maina, 268. Bassse, 291. Bathing, sea, at Corfu, 67. BLACK MOUNTAIN. Baths: — Cythnos, 715; of Helen, 127 ; Lutraki, 127 ; Pythia's, 217, 277. Bathy, 84. Battles :—Actium, 785. /Egos- potami, 199. Artemisium, 228. Chserouea, 214. Delium, 222. Lepanto, 91, 120, 275. Leuctra, 212. Mantinea, 265. Marathon, 210. Mycale, 777. Navarino, 72, 77, 285. Phar- salia, 410. Philippi, 477. Pydna, 417. Salamis, 205. Sybota, 69. Battus, 720. Bays : — Afales, 89. Alyzea, 252. Aulis, 224. Basilike, 76. Butrinto, 69. Chieri, 97. Crissean, 277. Deep, 224. Dragomestra, 81, 250. Eleu¬ sis, 205. Frikes, 89. Gome- nitza, iij. Go vino, 67. Ki - tries, 277. Lutraki, 127,126, 247. Melos, 717. Myconos, 712. Nauplia, 259. Nava¬ rino, 284 Palea Monem- basia, 277. Pandeleimon, 250. Platia, 250. Poros, 72. Prevesa, 785. St. Minas, 225. Samos, 72. Thera, 721. Tra- gamesti, 81,250. Vatika, 98. Vonitza, 248. Yurko, 225. Zante, 95. Beads, Levantine habit of twirl¬ ing in the fingers, 46. Belesi, 294. Belgrade, or Beligrad, the Ar- naout, 398. Belvedere, 293. Bema, 36,186. Bendscha, river, 396. Beuizze, 66, 68. Berat, 398. -by Apollonia to Joannina, 194- -to Joannina by Premedi, 498 - Beratino, river, 398. Berecynthos, 357. Berenthe, 289. Beshek, Buyuk, 432 ; Kutchuk, 432. Besfkia, 432. Beule, M., his excavations at the Acropolis of Athens, 146 149. Bia, Athanasius, 395. Bidnos, 363. Biennos, 363. Billiard-table, bed laid upon the, a mark of distinction, 20. Bisanthe, 434. Bishops, 103. Bitolia, residence of a British Consul, 429. Bizani, Mt., 272. -, Kalyvia of, 273. Black, Professor, 130. Black Mountain, 73. u 3 442 INDEX. BLACK WATER. Black Water, 297. Blitra, 277. Boat-hire, 19, 705. Boccale, 247. Bocche di Cattaro, 401. Bockh, 197. Bees, 98. Boeotia, plain of, 211. Boeotians, Sepulchre of the, 214. Boghaz, Great, 777. ■-•, Little, 777. Bojana, river, 401. Bolari, 269. Bolbe, 472. Bolissus, 775 - Bonaparte, Napoleon, his ac¬ curate knowledge of his re¬ sources, 77 ; his protection of Coray, 71 ; marhie for his tomb in Paris supplied from the quarries of Mt. Mar- pessa, 724; belief of the Mainotes that the Bonaparte family belong to one of their clans, 276. Bonaparte, Lucien, tomb of, 286. Bonatti, Sig., 400. Borasca, 58. Borgo, 247. Bortzi, 406. Botzaris, Constantine, 274. --, Mark, 274. 79 °- Bondouri, 700. Boza, 277. Bracebridge, Mr. C. H„ 170. Braona, 209. Brasidas, 417, 477. Bratzi, 211. Brauron, 209. Bridge, Byzantine, over the Aracthus, 789; of two rows of arches, one above the , other (Crete), 757 ; ancient triangular, neaV Konstan- tinus, 289; Hellenic, near Xerocampo, 272. Brilessus, 202. Bryki, 269. Budonitza, 217. Budrum, 741. Budua, 401. Bullis, 797. -maritima, 407. Bumisto, Mt., 247. Bura, 240. Buraicus, river, 240. Busi, river, 290. Buthrotum, 64, 69, 70, 781. Butrinto, 64, 69, 70, 776, 781. .- by Khimara to Avlona, 403 . Buyourdf, 7, 8, 779. Buyuk Tchedmadjeh, 474. Byron, Lord, at the mouth of the Achelous, 90 ; in Athens, 175; in Cephalonia, 74; in the Morea, 51; at Tepeleni, 796; in a thunderstorm on the plain of Zitza, 782. His CAPO DUCATO. accurate knowledge of the Greek character, 90. His “Maid of Athens,” 175. Lines on the Acro-Corinthus, 127; the Albanians, 50; Athens, 128; an Athenian sunset, 178; Greece, while subject to the Turks, 116; the Isles of Greece, 704; Marathon, 209,210 ; Sunium, 208 ; Tepeleni, 796 ; the com¬ pletion of his Thirty- sixth year, 274 ; Zitza, 782. His death, at Mesolonghi, 274. Byzantine architecture, 75 ; a true Byzantine church, 75 ; churches at Athens, 174; at Daphne, 244, 245. c. Cabiri, 729, 771. Cabrera, island, 287. Cadi, 28. Calamaki, 114. Calamos, 89. -, Mt., 717. Calandria, 416. Calauria, 701. Calichiopulo, Lake, 66. Callicrates, 159. Callidromos, 217. Callimachus, 26. Callirrhoe, Fountain of, 189. Calliste, 720. Calydna, 771. Calydnre, 740. Calydon (Kurt-Aga), 248. -to Mesolonghi, 248. Calypso’s Grotto, 68. Camari, 282. Cambunian Hills, 22. Camirus, 747. Campbell, Col., 757. Canaris, Constantine, 777, 776, 777 - Candia, town, 760. Canea, 752, 755. Canethus, 225. Cantacuzene, John, 241, 408. Cantar, in. Cantharus, 197, 200. Capandriti, 211. Capes:—Bianco, 68, t 15. Ce- phalus, 715 . Chamilo, 277. Colonna, 208, 777. Ducato, 76. Gallo, 287. Geladha, 247. Kremidhi, 277. Lefkimo, Lef- timo, 67, 68,115. Leucimne, 67, 68, 115. Malea, Malia, 98, 277. Matapan, 275. Papa, 297. Ehion, 297. Santa Maria, 777. Scala, 72. Spada, 765. Sphindri, 767. Vis- cardo, 77. Xyli, 277. Caphyse, 296. Capital (architectural), 25. Capo Bianco, 68, 115. --* Ducato, 76. CATTARO. Capo d'lstria. Count Augustine, 100. -, Count John, 71; elected President, 99, 701 ; assassi¬ nated, 100; his grave, loo. Capotes, 45, 119. Cardachio, Fountain of, 66. Cardamyle, 269, 276, 775. Carea, 417. Camus, 89. Carthaea, 717. Caryatid, 25. Carystos, 226. Casa, Khan of, 207. Cassander, 200. Cassandra, 417. -promontory, 415. Cassation, High Court of Ap¬ peal and, 102. Cassiope, 64. Cassope, 788. Cassdpo, 64. Castalian Fountain, 276, 277. Castel Belvedere, 764. -Lastua, 401. -Tomese, 95, 295. Castellaes, 227. Castello Temenos, 761. Castles: — Aetos, Aeto, 251. St. Angelo (Corfu), 67. Ar¬ cadia, 288. Argos, 267. Ar- gyro Kastro, 794. Assos (Cephallenia), 77. Asty- palsea, 741. Budonitza, 217. Butrinto, 70, 781. Chalcis, 225. Cos, 742. Dhomoko, 410. Durazzo, 400. Eleusis, 206. Exoburgo, 711. Grabusa, 756. Lady Irene, 245. Ka- lamata, 287. Kapsdli, 98. Karytena (the residence of Colocotroni), 289. Lamia (Zeitun), 218. Lesbos, 777. Mistra, 266. Monembasia, 272. Morea, 120, 297. Ni- copolis, 787. Paramythia, 788. Parga, 792. Patras, 117-119. Phyle, 204. Piadha, 256. Pylos, 286. Rhodes, 746. Roumelia, 120. St. George (Cephallenia), 75. Sdlona, 276. Scutari, 401. Scyros, 726. Spinalonga, 756. Suli, 715, 788, 790. Tbaumaci, 410. Ulysses (Ithaca), 86. Vonitza, 247. Zante, 95. Castor and Pollux, 147. Castoria, 429. Castrddes, 65, 66. Castri, 276. Castriot, George, 48; birth¬ place of, 471. Castritza, 406. Castron, Lemnos, 770. Cataract, near Paulizza, 290. Cathedrals : — Athens, 174. Candia, 760. Corfu, 65. Pa¬ tras, 119. Tenos, 710. Cattaro, 401. INDEX 443 CA.TCLLCS. Catullus, 522. Cavalla, birthplace of Mehmet Aly, Pasha of Egypt, 455. Cavea, 25. Caverns, caution against enter¬ ing, 202. Caves :— Acropolis of Athens, 147,148. -Egiua, 255. Apollo, Argos, 265, 264. Apollo and Pan, 147. Corycian, 259. Crete, 556, 562. Delphi, 257, 258. Dionysiac Theatre, 192. Eumenides, 195. The Forty Courts, 259. Hercules, 297. Hercules Buraicus, 240. Ka- labryta, 295. Mt. Bizani, 272. Mt. Hyniettus, 208. Mt. Melidoni, 558. Mt. Skro- poneri, 250. Nemean lion, 297, 298. CEniadse, 250. Par¬ nassus, 216. Pylos, 286. Sa'ona, 256. Sta, Sophia, 98. Yelitza, 217. Cean Laws, 515. Ceeropium, 174. Celetrum, 429. Celia, 25. Celydnus, river, 405. Cemetery, Protestant, at Athens, 151. -of the Delians, 510. Cenchreae, 127. Census of Attica by Demetrius Phalereus, 142. Centaurs, 409. Ceos, 211. Cephallenia (Cephalonia), out¬ line of its history, 71 ; curi¬ osities, 72, 75; productions, 7?, 74; excursions, 75, 74. Cephalus, 71. -, Cape, j 15. Cephisia, 202. Cephissus, river, 157, 199, 202, 217, 225, 250. -, plain of the, 219. -, Eleusinian, 207, 244. Ceramicus, 187, 196. CeremoniesMarriage, 46 ; funeral, 47. Ceres, 117, 206, 299 ; statue of, 206 ; well of, 118. -, Eleusinian, 244. ——, Mycalessia, 229. -and Proserpine, 189. Cerigo. See Cythera. Cerigotto, 98. Cerularius, 54. Cervantes at Lepanto, 91. Cervi, 98. Cettigne, 401. Chseronea, 215. Sepulchre of the Boeotians — the marble lion, 214. Chalcidice, 415. Chalcis, 224 ; the only place in the Kingdom of Greece where Mahommedan families re¬ main, 225. -to Athens direct, 225. CICOXES. Chalcis to Marathon, 220. -to Oreos (Euboea), 227. -to Thebes, 224. -to Thebes, by Lukisi and Kokhino, 229. Chalia, 229. Chamber of Deputies, 155. Chamiio, Cape, 275. Champiitte, 294. Chaon, Mt., 259. Chapels Athens, 157. Corfu, 67. Santa Maura, 77. Character of the Greeks, 42, ioy. Charadra, 221. Charadrus, river, 210, 588. Chares of Lindus, 54;. Charts, Admiralty, indispensa¬ ble to a visitor of the iEgean, I42. Charvati, 260. Chassia, 204. Chastieis, 204. Chelmos, Mt., 295. Chelonaki, 284. Chians, character of, 106. Chieri, Bay of, 95. Childe Harold a good pocket companion in Greece, 47; his voyage in the Ionian Sea, 115. Chimsera, site of, 406. Chimariots, 50. Chora, 294. Choragic Monument of Ly- sicrates, 191. Chryso, 216, 256. -to Lebadea, 216. Chrysovitzi, Mt., 251. Church, General, 76. Church, present condition of the Greek, 54, 102; main points of difference between the Greek and the Roman and English Churches, 54. Churches and chapels, Greek, 35 - Churches :— Andrussa, 281. Arta, 589. Asomato, 275. Astypakea, 541. Athens, 150, 154, 180, 205. St. Basil, 251. Cape Matapan, 275. Chseronea, 214. Chalcis, 225, 226. Chryso, 256. Corfu, 65. Crete, 556, 565. Daphne Monastery, 244, 245. Delos, 511. Delphi (Castri), 257. Hydra, 500. Kardhitza, 251. Katokhi, 249. Livadiana, 572. Megaspelion, 241. Me¬ teors, 408. Mt. Athos, 426, 42 7. Myconos, 512. Nauplia, 258. Old Syra, 507. Palea Episcope, 594. Paros, 524. Patmos, 540. Pholegandros, 519. Rhodes, 547. Salonica, 414. Sclavo - Khorio, 272. Stavromenos Petros, 190. Tanagra, 222. Tegea, 264. Zante, 94. Cicones, 454. CONVENTS. Cimolian earth, 517. Cimonium, 148, 154. Cirrha, 256. Cisterns, ancient: — Chalcis, 226; Crete, 557 - Cithseron, Mount, 25, 207. Clarenza, 95, 295. Cleitor, 294. Cleomedes, 541. Cleon, 455. Cleonae, 297, 298, 419. Clepsydra, fountain, 147, 280. Clergy, learning of, 56, 102. Climate of Greece, 9, toS. Climax, mountain-track, 264. Clisali, 452. Clitorium, 295. Clothes, travelling, 6. Cnemis, Mt., 216. Cnossos, 549, 560. Coas vestes, 542. Coal, 109. Cocytus, river, 588, 592. Codrington, Admiral, 285. Coenobia, 55, 420. Coinage, national, no. Coins, choice collection at Athens, 152; of Carthtea, 515 ; Crete, 549 ; GCniacUe, 250; the Republic, at Piadha, 256 ; Rhodes, 547 ; Samos, 33 8. Colocotroni, 279, 299; his re¬ sidence, 289. Colonna, Cape, 208, 557 ; har¬ bour (Cythnos), 515. Colonnato, in. Colonus, hill of the sacred, 196. Colossus of Rhodes, 545. Columns, The, 291. Combotecra, Nicholas, (travel¬ ling servant,) 150. Commerce, 44, 104. Conduriotti, George, 299, 500. Conon, 199. Constantine Bey, 269. Constantine, Fort, 76, 78. Constantine Porphyro-Genitus, 268. Constantinople to Salonica, 4 J 2 - -to Scutari, 435. Consul, Austrian, at Durazzo, 400. -, British, at Bitolia, 429. Crete, 555. Joannina, 584. Lesbos, 555. Monastir, 429. Morea, 119. Rhodes, 344. Salonica, 415. Syra, 507.— Vice-Consuls at Mesolonghi, 254. Prevesa, 584. Sayada, 581. Scutari, 400. Contadino, 80. Contoporeia, 297. “ Contumacy,” 69. Convents : — Amorgos, 522. Andrussa, 281. Cephallenia, 75, 74. Corfu, 67, 68. Crete, 555, 556. Exoburgo, 511. Megaspelion (Megaspelseon). 444 INDEX. COPAL 240. Mount Hymettus, 203. Mount Skopos, Zante, 95. Naum, Albania, 431. Naxos, 323. Parnassus, 215. Pha- neromene, 243. Cop®, 13 1. Copaic lake, 18, 212, 230. Corassise, 337. Coray, 31 ; his birthplace, 335. Coreyra (Corfu) : — Inns, 60. Post-office, 59. Historical notice, 61. Elec¬ toral divisions, 67. First approach, 6 3. Land¬ ing-places, 64. Government House, 64. Citadel, 64; splendid view, 65. Cathedral, 65. Church of St. Spiridion, 6;. Garrison church, 6j. University, 57. Garrison Library, 60. Theatre, 60. Esplanade, 64. Strada Ma¬ rina, 66. Pace-course, 66. Olive-groves, 67. Festa, 67. Suburbs of Manduchio and Castrades, 65. Shooting, 69 . Excursions, 67. Corcyreans, 400. Coressia, Coressus, 313. Corfu. See Coreyra. Corfu, University of, 57. Corfu to Athens, IT4. - to Joannina hy Delvino and Zitza, 381. -to Joannina by Sayada and Philates, 381. Corinth:—Inns, 124. Malaria, 124. Historical notice, 124. Acro-Corinthus, 123; Byron's description, 123 ; splendid panoramic view from the summit, 125, 126. Eoman remains, 125, 127. The seven Doric columns, 125. Foun¬ tain of Pirene, 125, 126. Isthmus, 126; Isthmian Sanctuary, 127 ; traces of the old wall, and of the canal, 127 ; the Diolcos, 127. Corinth, Gulf of, 120. Corinth to Megara, 243. Corinthian Order, 26. -— architecture, earliest au¬ thentic instance of, 191. -temple, Melos, 318. Com trade, 44; Mr. Mongre- dien’s Report on, 104. Comice, 25. Coron (Corone), 287. Coronea, 213. Corse® Insulae, 337. Corycian Cave, 239. Corycos, 367. Coryphasiun?, 284. Cosmi, 349. Cossutius, 191. Costume of Maina, 277. Costumes, Greek, 45, 119, 135. Cottages of the peasantry, 21. Couchaud, 134. DALMATIA. Coulia, 399. Courier, a regular Athenian, preferable, 8. Court of Appeal and Cassation, 102. Cranae, 274. Cranii, 71. Crathis, river, 242, 296. Cressida, Fountain of, 66. Cretan Labyrinth, 360. -Sea, 303, 362. Cretans, 106. Crissa, 216, 236. Crissaean Bay, 237. -Gulf, 120. -Plain, 236. Crocyleia, 89. Croia, 432. Crommyon, 243. Crucifix, novel, 355. Ctesihius of Alexandria, 179. Ctesiphon, birthplace of, 360. Cthonius, 343. Currant magazines, 96, 121. - vine, cultivation of, 73, 83, 96, 117, 120, 122, 123. Curzolari Islands, 9c, 120. Curzon, Mr., his reason why Franks are seldom molested in the East, 3. Customs of the Greeks, 45, 46. Cyathis, 72. Cyclades, 303, 306. Cyclopes, 260. Cyclopean masonry, 24; best example in the mins of Tiryns, 24, 259, 260. Argos, 262. Arta, 389. Cephallenia, 72. Dadi, 217. Delphi, 238. Delvino, 381. Gradista, 397. Ithaca, 86. Leucas, 79. Nau- plia, 259. Salonica, 414. Thuria, 282. Vlithias, 369. Cycnias, Mt„ 311. Cydias, birthplace of, 314. Cydonia, 335. Cyllene, 95, 295. -, Mount, 23. Cynaetha, 293. Cynosarges, 197. Cynoscephalfe, 410. Cyntbus, 92. --, Mt., 310. Cynurians, 37. Cyparissia, 338. Cyparissia (Arcadia), 288. -to Tripolitza, 288. -through Arcadia and Elis to Patras, 290. Cypselus, 75. Cytaeum, 362. Cythera (Cerigo), outline of its history, 97 ; productions and curiosities, 98. D. Dadi, 217. Dafnides, 359. Dalmatia, 401. DIOLCOS. Damala, 301. Danaus, 264. Dance, national, 46, 67 ; torch¬ light, at Cythnos, on Easter Day, 315. Daouli, 264. Daphne, pass, 205, 244; mo¬ nastery, 205, 244. Daphni, 272. Dardanelles, Little, 120. Dascalion, 89. Daskalio, 317. David, M„ his statue of Mark Botzaris, 234. Davlia (Daulis), 2x5. Decca, Sta„ 68. Decelea, 204, 223. Deep Bay, 224. Deigma Stoa, 200. Deiras, 263. Dejanira, 248. Deliklibaba, 284. Delisi, 222. Delium, 222. Delphi, 236. Castalian Foun¬ tain, 237. Gymnasium, 237. Stadium, 237. Temple of Apollo, 237. Monastery of St. Elias, 238. Delphi, ridge of, 227. Delphinium, 221, 335. Delvinaki, 381. Delvino, 381, 399, 406. - by Durazzo to Scutari, 199 - Demarch, roi. Deme, 101. Demeter (Ceres), Hierum of, 206. Demetrias, 410. Demetrius Phalereus, his cen¬ sus of Attica, 142. Demetrius Poliorcetes, 200,410. Demi, vestiges of, near Hy¬ mettus, 203. Demosthenes, 199; scene of his death, 301. Dendrinos, 83. Deputies, Chamber of, 133. Deropoli, 394. --, river, 394-396. Dervenakia, 297. Dervish-Agu, 196. Dexia, 84. Dhikova, vale, 275 ; river, 275. Dhomoko, 410. Dhiy, 269. Dhryalo, 269. Dia, 322, 360. -, Mt., 323. Diagoras, birthplace of, 318. Diana Agrotera, 190; Ama- ryzia, 226 ; Hermione, 299; Laphria, 117 ; Limnatis, 273. Dibaki, 364. Dic®archus, 192. Dictynnaean Promontory, 365. Dictynnseon, 365. Dimitzana, 296. Diolcos, 127. INDEX 445 DIOX CASSIUS. Dion Cassius, 385. Dionysiac Theatre, 14S, 192, I 201. Dionysias, 322. Dionysius Periegetes, 328. Dionysus, jiJ, 322. Dioscuri, Temple of the, 147. Dipteral, 25; pseudo-dipteral, i 3 7. Dirce, river, 211. Distances, how measured, in. Distimo, 240. Distomo, 216. Dium, 41!, 419. Divided Way, 216. Dockyard, 104. Dodona, 381, 406. Dogs, caution respecting, 87, 4°4- Dollar, no, nr. Dorian Hexapolis, 344. Dorians, 349. Doric Order, 26; columns, the seven, at Corinth, 125 ; tem¬ ple at Kleitor, 295. Dorieus, 344. Dorion, 290. Doriscus, 434. Doro Passage, 312. Douglas, Sir Howard, obelisk in honour of, at Corfu, 65. Drachma, no. Drachmano, 216, 219. -to Molo, 219. . Dradziates, 403. Dragoman, 8, 17. Dragomestra, 81, 250, 251. Drakanon, 337. Drako, 197, 200. Drakdna, 370. Dramali Pasha, 297. Dramia, 357. Dramisi, 222. Dramisius, 388, 389. Drapania, 365. Drasch, 400. Drepane, 61. Drepanon, 357. Dress, national, 45, 67 ; of the Mussulman women at Del- vino, 399.—See Costume. Drilo, river, 400, 431. Drin, river, 400, 431. Drymadhes, 405. Dryusa, 338. Dukadhes, 404. Dulcigno, 401. Dulichium, 71, 90. Dulopolis, 368. Duraessi, 400. Durali, 272, 273. -to Marathonisi, 273. Durazzo, residence of an Aus¬ trian consul, 400. Dyme, 118, 293. Dyrrachium, 400. Dzidzifi, 370. ERGOTELES. E. Earthquakes, precautions a- gainst, 77 ; frequent in Zante, 91- Ecclesiastics, Greek, primitive appearance of, 36. Echinades, 89, 120. Echinusa, 317. Edessa, 428. Edonians, 433. Education, progress of, 31, 44, 57. rn- Eels of the Copaic lake, 18,230. Eetionia, 198, 201. Egnatian road, 48. Egripo, 224. Elaphonesi, 98. Elatea, 216, 219 ; plain, 217. Elatus, Mount, 95. Elbassan, 431. Elerigova, 417, 418. Eleusis, 205, 206, 244; bay, 205. Eleusinian Mysteries, 206, 244. Eleusinium, Acropolis of Athens, 148; of Pausanias, 189. Eleutherac, 207, 211. Eleutbema, 359. Eleuthero-Lacones, 106, 268. Elis, 293. Elixus, river, 313. Elyros, 368. Empedo, 147. Emporeion, 348. Emporium, 197, 200, 343. Encheleovivari, 80. Endelos, 337. Enipeus, river, 409, 413. Enneacrunus, 189. Enneakhoria, 367. Enneapylon, 145. Entablature, 25. Entasis, 169. Epakto. See Naupactus. Epaminondas, 212, 280, 287, 289 ; spot where he fell, 265. Epanokhorion, 370. Eparch, Eparchy, 101. Epea, 287. Epidamnus, 400. Epidaurus, 255. -Limera, 273. Epirus, 75. Episcope, 264, 363. Episkopi, 357. Episkopiano, 362. Erasmus, river, 259. Erasistratus, birthplace of, 313. Erechtheus, or Erichthonius, 140,170. Erechtheum. See Acropolis of Athens. Erekli, Eski, 434. -, Buyuk, 434- Eresus, 332. Eretria, 226. Ergasteri, 370. Ergoteles, birthplace of, 360. FOUNTAINS. Ericho, 403. Ericusa, 68. Eridanus, 203. Erimo-kastro, 212. Erisso, 417. Ermitza, river, 24;. Erymanllius, Mt., 23; river, 294. Esculapius, 193, 217, 324, 342. Eteocretes, 363. Euboea, 224. Eudemin, 327. Eumseus, 21, 82, 84, 87. Eumenides, Cave of the, 195. Euripus, river, 211, 222, 225; bridge, 222, 225. Euroclydon, 373. Eurotas, river, 266, 272, 273, 279. Evantha, 235. Evas, Mount, 23, 280. Evenus, river, 232, 248. Evil eye, 46. Exarch, 56. Exarcho, 219. Exoburgo, 310, 311. Exoge, 83, 88, 89. Expenses, travelling, 16. F. Fabvier, Col., 337. Fano, 68. Fastigium, 25. Felibejik, 433. Festas:—Amaxichi, 77. Corfu, 47. 67- Festivals :—St. Andrew bf Pa¬ tras, 118. St. Dionysius of Zante, 94. Santa Maura, 77. Fez, 45. Fire-arms, certificate necessary to legalize possession of, 19. Firman, 8, 379. Fish, 18, 72. Fishing by torchlight, 72. Fluting, 2;. Food of the lower classes, 46, 109. Fortifications, remains of, in the Pass of Daphne, 205. Forts :—Arta, 389. Castel Tomese, 295. Chaeronea, 213. Chalcis, 225. Clarenza, 295. Corfu, 64, 65. Coron, 287. Eleutherae, 2ii.Lebadea, 213. Maina, 276. Mesolonghi, 232. Mycens, 261. Nauplia, 257, 258. Navarino, 284. Paxos, 70. Rhodes, 347. Santa Maura, 76-78. Tiryns, 260. Forty Saints, 406. Fountains : — Aganippe, 212. Arethusa, 86, 87. Ariadne, 323. Callirrhde, 189. Car- dachio, 66. Castalian, 236, 237. Clepsydra, 147, 280. Cressida, 66. Dionysius, 288. Enneacrunus, 189. Hiera- 446 INDEX, FRAGOLA. petra, 372. Inopus, 309. Kanina, 403. Leucas, 79. Livadiana, 372. Megalo- kastron, 360. Muri, 371. Paros, 324. Pirene, 125, 126. Rodovani, 369. Selvili, 360. Syra, 307. Tatoe, 223. Thebes, 224. Vlike (Avlike), 222. “ Water of the Stone,” Crete, 364. White Water, 337. Fragola, 398. Frank, 3. Franko Kastello, 371, 374. Fre, 370. Fresco at Athens, 134. Frieze, 25. Frikes, 88, 89. Funeral ceremonies, 47. Fustanelles, 45. Gr. Gaidharonisi, 229. Gaiduropolis, 357. Gaio, Port, 70. Galatista, 418. Galaxidi, 216, 235. Galene, 361. Galleys, ancient, coasting boats of the present day similar to, 84. Gallo, Cape, 287. Game, abundance of, 17 ; great variety in Acarnania, 80; in Euboea, 227.—See Shoot¬ ing. Gardiki, 395. Gargaliano, 288. Garuna, Pass of, 68. Gaston, 294. Gastuni, 293, 294. Gate of the Lions, Mycenae, 261. Gates in ancient Athens, 177. “ Gates,” (a pass in Crete,) 373, “ Gates,” the, near Thebes, 224. Gaudos, 352. Gaurion, 312. Geladha, Cape, 247. Genusus, river, 399, 431. Geographical outline of Greece, 22. Geology, 108. Geranea, Mt., 23, 123. Germanos raises the standard of the Cross and of independ¬ ence, 31, 119, 241. Gharazo, 359. Gheges, 49, 50; country of the, 399 - Gfcyphto-castro, 207, 211, 245. Giant’s Tomb, 363. Gigantomachia, 154, 183, Glaucus, river, 293. Gligoraki, Antony, 268. Glizani, 381. Glossa, 403. Giyky, 388, 392. GREECE. Gold, alluvial, at Scyros, 326 ; mines, Thasos, 329. Golo, 410. Gomati, 417. Gomenitza, 394; bay, 115. Goni, 371. Gonies, 360. Gonnus, 411. Gordon, General, his History of the Greek Revolution, 94,107. Gortyna, 349, 364. Gortys, 289. Govino, Bay of, 67 . Gozo, 352. Grabusa, 367. Graces, Hieron of the (Orcho- menus), 215. Gradista, 397. Grammatieo, 220. Grave of Penelope, 87. Gravia, 216. --- to Salona, 216. Grease spring of Zante, 93. Grecian architecture, Orders of, 26. Greece, works on, vi.; outline of Greek history, 27 ; origin of the term “Greeks,” 47; geographical outline, 22 ; an accurate idea of its geo graphy essential to the study of its history, 23 ; under the Latin Princes, 28 ; Turkish conquest, 28 ; insurrections of 1770 and 1821, 31 ; the Hetairia, 31; recognition of its independence by the Porte, 32 ; reflections on the War of independence, 32; probable effects of the strug¬ gles of Modern Greece, 1 ; chief places where the Hel¬ lenic race has maintained itself, 106. Greece, Kingdom of:—Histo¬ rical sketch and actual con¬ dition, 99. Otho proclaimed King, 100; signs the Consti¬ tutional Charter, 100. Limits of the new state, 99 ; total surface, 109. Titles of honour, 103. Mode of reckoning time, IIO. Government and territorial division, 101. Revenue, 101.' Justice, 101. Religion, 34, 102. Public instruction, 103, 131. Press, 104. Progress of education, 31, 44, 57. Army and navy, 104. Dock¬ yard and arsenal, 104. Mi¬ litia, 104. Police, 104. Mer¬ cantile navy, commerce, 44, 104. Merchants, 104. Cli¬ mate, soil, &c„ 9, 108. Agri¬ culture, 109. Manufactures, 109. Vegetable products, 18, 108. Geology, 108. Money, 7, 59, no. National Bank, GYMNASIA. 130. Weights and measures, in. Post-office system, 109. Most convenient way to explore, skeleton tours, in. Passports, 8. Travelling, 1-2.1. Packets, Ac., 4, 5, 109, no, 114. Roads, 15. Inns, Ac., 20, hi. Shops, servants, &c„ in. Personal appearance of the modem Greeks, 106. Lan¬ guage, 36, 106. Popular poetry, 29, 30. Architecture, 24. Character, 42, 105-107, 134. Manners and customs, 45, 46. National dance, 46, 67. National dress, 45, 119. Festas, 67. Peasantiy, 67, 68, 109. Greece, Eastern, peopled by the Hellenic stock, 106. Greece.Northem, grand tour of, 112, 114; character of tire people, 106,107 ; nomes com¬ prised in, 101. Greece, Western, mountainous parts peopled by the Hel¬ lenic stock, 106. Greek history, outline of, 27. Greeks, origin of the term, 47; how they attained perfection in the elegant arts, 141; their portrait while under the Turkish yoke, 107; per¬ sonal appearance of the mo¬ dem, 106, Gregale, 373. Grivas, Theodore, 78. Gropius, the Austrian Consul, 214. Grotto of Agraulos, 147, 155; Antiparo (Oliaros), 325 ; Ca¬ lypso's, 68; in Crete, 356; the Golden, Pholegandros, 319 ; of the Nymphs, 84, 317 ; where St. John is said to have written the Apocalypse, 54 °. Guardiano, 14, 69. Guildford, Earl of, 57, 83. Guiscard, Robert, 62, 73, 400. Gulfs Aliveri, 221. Avlona, 402. Bocche di Cattaro, 401. Contessa, 417. Corinth, 120. Crisstean, 120. Kisamos, 365. PagasaBan, 229, 410. Rhi¬ zome, 401. Saronic, 244. Strymonic, 417, 433. Therma, 413. Toronaic, 416. Yolo, 229, 410. Gum mastic, 335. Gummurjine, 434. Guria, 249. Gurnes, 362. Guves, 362. Gymnasium, the institution de¬ scribed, 181. Gymnasia: — Athens, 132 ; Delphi, 237 ; of Hadrian, 180; of Piolemy, 1S1. INDEX. 447 GYPSUM. Gypsum hills, 402. Gyrse, 414. Gyros,_J7i. Gythium, no, 265, 271, 274; valley, 274. H. Hades, rivers of, 492. Hadrian, Aqueduct of, 196; Arch of, 191 ; Gymnasium of, 180; Inscription in honour of, at Delphi, 247. Hadrianopolis, 196 . Haghia Kyriake, 271. -Marina, 217. Hagkios-Mamas, 416. Haliacmon, river, its source, 407 ; ferry, 414. Halicarnassus, 441. Halicyma, 24S. Halipedum, 19S. Halisama, 442. Halonnesus, 427. Hansen, the architect, 142. Harbours :—Aghios Petros,248. Amorgos, 422. Argostoli, 74. Aulis, 222. Bathy, 84. Calymna, 441. Cerigo, 97. Clarenza, 95. Cythnos, 414. 415. Fair Havens, 464, 466, 472. Gaurion, 412. Hello- menum, 76. Hydra, 400. Hyllaic, 66. Icos, 427 - Ios, 420. Kalamaki, 127. Kre- midhi, 274. Leros, 440. Lesbos, 444. Methone, 98. Myconos, 412. Naupactus, 121. Navarino, 286. Oropus, 221. Pandeleimon, 250. Pa- normos, 411. Paros, 424. Patinos, 440. Pelodes Limen, 69. Peparethos, 428. Platia, 250. Reithrum, 89. Rhenea, 410. Rhodes, 447. Samos, 72. Scandea, 97. Seriphos, 416. Sicinos, 419. Siphnos, 416. Sweet, 115, 490. 392 . Syme, 444. Syra, 407. Tenos, 411. Thera, 420. Vostitza, 121. Xyli, 274. Zante, 94. See Ports. Harma, 204. Harvest-time in Greece, 108. Health, maxims for the preser¬ vation of, 10. Health-officer, 14, 69. Hebrseokastron, 415. Hebrus, river, 444. Hecatompedon (Parthenon). See Acropolis of Athens. Helen, Bath of, 127. Helena, 209. Helice, 122, 240. Helicon, Mount, 23, 108. Heliconiades, 240. Helisson, river, 289. Hellanicus, birthplace of, 342. Hellenes, character of, 42. Hellenic race, chief places HILLS. where it has maintained itself, 106; features pre¬ served in the modem Psa- riots, 106. Hellenic bridges :—Crete, 457. Xeroeampo, 272. Hellenic masonry, 24. Arcadia, 288. Argos, 262, 265 Aso- mato, 275. Hyrtakina, 469. Melos, 418. Messene (splendid example), 24, 280. Monembasia, 273- Olympia, 292. Paros, 324. Passava, 274. Salonica, 414. Vitylo, 276 .—Irregular Hellenic, 24. Buthrotum, 70. Cephallenia, 71. Hellenitza, Mt., 280. Hellomenum, 76. Hellopia, 484. Helos, 272. -to Monembasia, 272 . Hephaistia, 440. Hera, 214, 262. Heraclea, 72, 462. Heraea, 294. Heraeum, 262, 448, 449. Hercules Buraicus, Cave of, 240. Hercyna, river, 214. Hermae, 181. Hermaia, 296. Hermes, 296 ; Tallaean, 458. -, hill of, 89. Hermione, 299. Hermopolis, 407. Herod the Tetrarch, 442. Herodes Atticus, 194, 202; tomb of, 190. Hesiod, residence of, 212. Hetairia, 41. Hexamili, 127, 244. Hexapolis, the Dorian, 344. Hexas yle, 25. H. Georgis, 294. Hiedecle, Gen., 43. Hiera, 421. Hierdpetra, 464. Hierapytna, 464. Hieron, 256. Sanctuary of JEsculapius, 256. Theatre, 256. Stadium, 257. Hieron of the Graces, 215; Muses, 212; Trophonius, 214. Hieram of Demeter (Ceres), 206. Hill, Rev. J. H„ 141. Hills Aetos, 86. Agrapha, 50. iEgrsean, 24. Anches- mus, 147. Arcadian, 24. Areopagus, 147. Cambunian, 22. Colonus, 196. Coronon, 424. Elis, 294. Eubcean, 24. Gypsum, 402. Hermes, 89. Hypatus, 224. Kalo- gheritza, 226. Karababa, 224. Karus, 79. Karyopoli, 275. Kasteila, 198, 200. Kumaro, 274. Lycabettus, IN ANTIS. 147. Mars, 194. Museum 1 147. Nymphs, 185. Oros> 255. Passava, 274. Pnyx, 157. Porta, 251. Siamata, 224. Skarus, 79. Sparto- vuni, 246. Sphynx, 211. Teumessus, 224. Yalto, 246. Zalongo, 488 Hipp aerates, birthplace of, 442. Hippodameian Agora, 201. Hippodamus of Miletus, 199, 201, 444- Hippola, 275. Histi, 447. Histiaea, 228. History, outline of Greek, 27. H. J nnis, 294. Holland, Dr., his picture of Athens, 118. Holy Saviour, Order of, 104. Homer, accuracy of his descrip¬ tions, 82, 88; “ School” of, 86, 83 , 455; legend of his death and burial at Ios, 419, 420. “ Grave” of, 420. Horologium of Andronicus Cyrrhestes, 178. Horse-hire, 15. Hotels, 20. Hyampoiis, 216, 219. Hybrias, 449 - Hydra, 299. —to Athens, 114. Hydramon, 457. Hydriots, 106. . Hydrussa, 410, 414. Hyle, 242. Hylica, Lake, 240. Hyllaic harbour, 66. Hymettus, 24, 202, 203. Hypaethral, 25. Hypatus, 224. Hypsilanti, Prince Demetrius, monument to, at Nauplia, 258 ; defence of Argos, 264. Hypsus, Hypsi, 274. Hyria, Lake of, 245. Hyrie, 91. Hyrtakina, 469. Hysise, 264. I. Ialysus, 447. IardaDOS, 465, 47 °- Ibrahim Pasha, 243 > 241, 265, 284, 284, 287, 288. Icarian Sea, 404. Icarus, 447. Iconostasis, 46. Ictinus, 159, 291. Ida, Mt., 24, 449 - Idiorhythmic monasteries, 45, 241, 420. Ilissus, 147, 202, 204. Illyricum, 498. Inachus, river, 262. Inakhorion, 468. In antis, 182. 448 INDEX. INDJE KARASU. Indje Karasft, river, its source, 407 ; ferry, 413. Inia, 211. Inns, 20, hi ; bargain for beds and meals necessary, 117. Ino, Lake of, 273. Inopus, Fountain, 309. Inscriptions : — Ariaphe, 321. Andros, 312. Antiparo, 325. Axos, 359. Chferonea, 214. Crete, 356. Delos, 309, 310. Delphi, 237. Gradista, 397. Hymettus, 208. Kyparisso, 275. Palaea Achaia, 293. Sclavo-Khorio, 272. Sipknos, 316. Tanagra, 222. Tegea, 264. Insect tribes of Greece, 18. Instruction, public, 103. Interpreters, 8, 17. Introduction, letters of, 7. Iolcos, 410. Ion, birthplace of, 335. Ionian I slands : — Historical sketch and actual condition, 53 ; government, 55 ; titles of honour, 57; public insti¬ tutions, 57 ; education, 57 ; character of the inhabitants, 57 ; military and commercial importance, 57, 58 ; garrison, 58 ; climate, soil, &c„ 58 ; manufactures, 59; packets, 59 ; money, 59 ; shops, ser¬ vants, &c„ 60; inns, &c„ 60! Ionic Order, 26. Iphigenia, 224. Ipos, 370. Ipso, 63 . Ira, 281, 288, 290, 291. Irene, Castle of Lady, 245. Iron, 109. Isboros, 418. Isis, 217, 299, 310. Islands, iEgean. See jEgean Sea. Islands, nomes comprised in the, 101; character of their inhabitants, 106, 107; cos¬ tume, 45. ACgilia, 98. iEgina, 253. Akte, 366. Ana- tolico, 232, 249. Antipaxo, 70. Arcudi, 89. Asteris, 89. A toko, 89, 248. Cabrera, 287. Calamos, 89, 252. Ca- lauria, 301. Camus, 89, 252. Ceos, 211. Cephallenia, 71. Cerigo, 97. Cerigotto, 98. Cervi, 98. Clauda, 373. Cor- cyra, 61. Corycse, 367. Cra- nae, 274. Curzohiri, 90, 120. Cyclades, 303, 306. Cythera, 97. Echinades, 89, 120. Ela- phonesi, 98. Fano, 68. Gaid- haronisi, 229. Gozo, 373. Hydra, 106, 299. Ionian. See Ionian Islands. Ithaca, 81. Kalamo, 248. Kastus, 89. Kurzolari, 90, 120. Leu- JUPITER A1NESIUS. cadia, 75. Lius, 98. Long, 209. Maori, 90. Maratho- nisi, 274 . Megalonesi, 366. Meganesi, Meganesion, 78, 89, 248. Merlera, 68. Mo- nemhasia, 272. Myla;, 366. Naxos, 106. (Enussae, 98. Othonus, 68. Paxos, 70,115. Petalh, 90, 250. Petallda, 366. Petzse, 299. Poros, 301. Porphyris, 97. Porri, 98. Prasonfsi, 98, 366. Prodano, 288. Prote, 288. Psyttalea, 205. Rhenea, 310. Salamis, 206, 244. Salmatraki, 68. Santorin, 106. Sapienza, 98, 287. Sazona, 403. Spetzia, 106, 299. Sphacteria, Spha- gia, 284, 286, 287. Sporades, 303 ; Northern, 326. Stag, 98. Strivali, 97. Strophades, 97. Swine, 68, 69. Syhota, 68, 69, 115. Syra, 106, 304. Taphus, 78, 89. Tenos, 106. Thasos, 433, 434. Vido, 64. Zacynthus, 91. lsmenus, river, 211. Issa, 331. Isthmian games, 124. Isthmus of Corinth, 126. Istone, 64, 68. Isus, 230. Itch Kali, 258. Ithaca, its classical associa¬ tions, 81; its identity with the Ithaca of Homer, 84; government, 83 ; produc¬ tions, 82, 83 ; population, 82; clans, 83 ; state of edu¬ cation in, 83 ; ancient ceme¬ tery, 86; excursions, 86. Ithome, Mt., 23, 280; ascent, 281. Iulis, 313 ; the colossal lion, 313 ! ancient road from Iulis to Carthaea, 313. J. Jannitza, 428, 434. Joannina, 382. Residence of a British Consul, 384. Coulia and Litharitza, 3S3. Scene of Ali Pasha's murder, 383. Joannina to Berat by Apollo- nia, 394 ; by Premedi, 398. -to Corfu by Philates and Sayada, 381; by Zitza and Delvino, 381. -to Larissa, 406. -to Parga by Dramisius and Suli, 389. -to Prevesa by Suli and Nicopolis, 384; by Arta, 388. Judges, io2. Juge d’lnstruction, 102. Juno, 213, 262. Jupiter iEnesius, 73 ; Arbios, KAPURNA, 363 ; Nemea, 298 ; Olympian, 292 ; Panhellenius, 254. Justices of the peace, 102. K. Kacaletri, 288, 291. Kaeratos, river, 362. Kaio (Quaglio), Port, 275, 276. -to Alika, 276. Kakaboulia, 268, 269. Kakiona, 269. Kaki-scala, 243. Kakon Oros, 362. Kakorema, 288. Kakos dromos, 404. Kako-Suli, 388, 390. Kakotfkhi, 370. Kalabaka, 408. Kalabryta, 295 ; river, 240. Kalamas, 282, 283. Kalamaki (station of the ves¬ sels of the Austrian Lloyd's Steam - packet Company), 123, 127, 243 ; excursion to Corinth, 123 ; the harbour, 127. Kalamas, river, 69, 381. Kalamata, no, 271, 283. - to Cyparissia (Arcadia) by Pylos (Navarino), 283. -to Sakona and Messene, 283. -to Sparta: through Maina, 268 ; by Messene, 279; over Mt, Taygetus, 279. Kalamo, 221, 248. Kalamyde, 369. Kalandri, 202. Kalarytes, 52. Kale Akte, 366. Kalentzi, 211. Kalepa, 355. Kalerghi, 368. Kalesia, 362. Kalkitza, Mt., 250. Kalogheritza, 226. Kaloskopi, 293. Kalpaki, 296, 398. Kalutzi, 397. Kalyvia, 238. Kamara, river, 365. Kamari, 242. Kamarina, 388. Kamenitza, river, 293. Kampia, 371. Kampos, 371. Kamposelorakhos, 367. Kandili, 251. Kani Kastelli, 361. Kanina, 403. Kantanos, 369, 370. Kantsillieres, 365. Kapeleti, 293. Kapnicarea (Athens), church of, 134. Kapsa, 296. Kapsali, 97, 98. Kapurna, 213. INDEX, 449 KAPURNA. Kapuma to Scripu, 2ij. Kara, 20}. Karababa, 224. Karabias, 83. Karabunar, 399. Karabusa, 367. Karagol, 63 . Karaiskitki's monument, 201. Karasmak, river, 413. Kara.su, river, 434. Kardhitza, 230, 231. Kares, 37:. Karinia, 269. Karkadiotissa, 361. Karnesi, 296. Karpenisi, 234, 247. Kartero, 362. Karus, 79. Karvunari, 397. Karyes, Karyae, 419. Karyopoli, 275. Karytena, the residence of Co- locotroni, 289. -to Kalabiyta and the Styx, 296 . Kasidi, 243. Kastaniotissa, 228. Kasteliand, 364. Kastel-Keraton, 363. Kastella, 198, 200. Kastri, 299. Kastron, Melos, 318. Kastus, 89. Katab&thra, 75. Cephissus, 230, 231. Copaic Lake, 230, 231. Joannina, 383. Ly- kuria, 295. Mantinea, 296. Mount Phicium, 231. Katacolo, 293. Kataito, 69. Katarina, 413. Katokhi, 249. Kato Ruga, 290. Katuna, 247, 251. Katzanes, 295. Kavaya, 399 - Kavo Grosso, 275. Kavro-khori, 362. Kavi'si, 366. Kekbropulo, 248. Kenkres, 127. Kephales, 369. Kephali, 368. Kephalovrysis, 373. Keramia, 370. Kerami'iti, 368. Kerata, Mt., 206, 244. Keratia, 208. Khadji Mikhali, 374. Khadros, 369. Khamalevri, 358. Khan, Khanji, 20, 379. Khans :—Achmet - Aga, 227 ; Acrata, 242, 297 ; between Akhrida and the Skumbi, 431 ; near Alessio, 400 ; An- tivari, 401 ; Baldouni, 406 ; between Berat and Kara¬ bunar, 399; Bitolia, 429 ; Kasa, 207; Daouli, 264; KOPHINOS. Drachmilno, 219; between Durazzo and Alessio, 400; Five Wells, 389 ; Gravia, in Doris, 216 ; Jannitza, 428 ; Karabunar, 399 ; Klisura, 399; between Klisura and Berat, 399 ; Krya Vrysis, 266; Kukussa, 431; Ku- narga, 433 ; near Kutchuk Beshek, 432 ; Kyria, 406 ; the Lady’s, 406; Malakassi, 407 ; Megara, 243 ; Miska, 284 ; Molo, 218 ; Monastir, 429 ; Ostanitza, 398; Ostrovo, 429; Palaea Achaia, 293; Pendepigadia, 389; Philio- tico, 296; between Plata- mona and Katarina, 413; Premedi, 398 ; Sakona, 280 ; Salona, 236; Sparta, 266; near Tepeleni, 399 ; Thebes, 211 ; Tilbeli, 429; foot of Mt. Tomaros, 399 ; Trikhani, 407 ; Tyrana, 432 ; between Tyrana and Croia, 432; Tschemi, 399 ; Vurlia, 266 ; Xerovaltd, 394; Yenidje, 428 ; Zygos, 407. Khandax, 349. Khania, 352, 353 . 355 - Kha'raka, 364. Kharatch, 28. Kharia, 269. Kharidjis, 379. Khelmos, Mt., 294. Khersonesos, 362. Khierasovo, 245. Khimara, 403, 405, 406. Khodja-bashi, 29, 379. Khora, 339. Kiapha, 390. Kidros, 413. Kiepero, 406. Kifianika, 269. Kikhrianika, 269. Kilo, nr. Kimaros, 367. Kineta, 243. Kirphis, Mt., 239. Kisamo-KastelU, 365, 366. Kisamos, 366. Kishan, 434. Kislar Aga, 358. Kita, 269, 275. Kitries, 276; beauty of the women, 277. Kleitor, 29;, 296. Klephts, 29, 118. Klima, 364. Klinovo, river, 407. Klisura, 288, 399. Knighthood, Orders of, 57, 103. Kokhino, 230. Kokinimilia, 228. Kokla, 212 ; river, 288. Komanova, 435. Konispolis, 115. Konstantinus, 289. Kontokyneghi, 369. Kophinos, Mt., 364. LAKES. Korax, 87. Kostos, 371. Kotronaes, 274. Kranidi, 299. Krapi, 370. Kravasaras, 247. Krelianika, 269. Kremidhi, Cape, 273. Krimnos, 269. Kroniac Mountains, 292. Krustogherako, 368. Krya Vrysis, 266. Krysovitza, 407. Ktypa, Mt., 224, 229. Kughni, 390. Kukussa, 431. Kulumi, 269. Kubiri, 206, 243. Kumaro, 274. Kumi, 226, 227. Kunarga, 433. Kunone, 367. Kunos, 269. Kuphalatos, 370. Kurkulus, 228. Kurmulides, 351. Kurna, 357. Kurt-aga, 248. Kurtzolari, 250. Kurvaldnes, 365. Kurzolari, 90, 120. Kuskuni, 269. Kutchuk Tchedmadjeh, 434. Kutomula, 213. Kutri, 366. Kutzava, 279. Kuvelo, 245. Kyparisso, 275. -to Asomato, 27;. Kypula, 269. Kyria Eugenia, 246. -Irene, 245. L. Labyrinth, Cretan, 360. Lacedaemon. See Sparta. Ladon, river, 294, 295, 296. Laertes, garden of, 88. Ldgrona, 208. Lagussae, 331. Lakes :—Akhrida, 430. Alcy- onian, 259. Apokuro, 245. Bolbe, 432. Butrinto, 69, 381, 406. Calichiopulo, 66. Castoria, 429. Celetrum, 429. Cephallenia, 72. Copaic, 18, 212, 230. Hylica, 230, 232. Hyria, 24;. Ino, 273. Jo¬ annina, 383. Katokhi, 249. Kurna, 357. Lapsista, 382. Lezini, 249. Likeri, 230, 232. Linovrokbi, 248. Livadi, 230, 232. Livari, 381, 406. Lych- nitis, 430. Ostrovo, 429. Paralimni, 230. Phonia, 296. Prasias, 433. St. Basil, 432. Senzina, 230, 232. Stym- phalus, 284. Taki, 266. Tri- 450 INDEX. LAKI. LIVADA. MAITLAND. chonis, 245. Yalto, 247. Vulkaria, 247. Zygos, 245. Laki, 370. Lala, 294. Lalande, Capt., 302. Lamia (Zeitun), 218. -- to Athens by Delphi, Thebes, Marathon, &c„ 209. -to Larissa, 409. Lampe, 357. Langudia, 296. Lango, 341. Language:—Observations on the modern Greek, 36; styled Romaic, 37 ; a dialect of the old Hellenic, 37 ; pronuncia¬ tion, 39; grammar, 40; of the present day almost iden¬ tical with the dialect of Xenophon and Demosthenes, 177; places where it is spoken with the most purity, 106. —Tzakonic dialect, 37; district where it is still spoken, 268.—Next to Greek, Italian most generally useful in the Levant, 17. Lantern of the Archipelago, 97. Lappa, 357. Larissa, 26?, 409. --to Joannina, 406. •-- to Lamia (Zeitun), 409. -—- to Salonica, 410. -— to Yolo and Armyro, 410. Larissus, river, 293. Larma, 231. Larymna, 230, 231. Larysium, 274. Las, 274. Lass!thi, 363. Lastos, 348. Latin Princes of Greece, 28. Laurium, high road from Athens to, 208. Laws :—Civil, 101 ; criminal, commercial, and correctional, 102; military, 102. Lazzarettos, the best, in the Levant, 14. iEgina, 254. Castel Lastua, 401. Syra, 107. Lear, Mr., sketch of Albanian landscape by, 1; his advice respecting outfit, 6. See Al¬ bania. Lebadea, 213. -to Chryso, 216. -- to Leuctra, 212. -to Thermopylae, 218. Leben, 364. Lebidi, 296. Lechseum, 122. Leeches, an article of export, 18. Leaves, Mr., 228. Lefkimo, Leftimo, 67, 68, 115. Leigh Hunt on Greek sailors, 105. Lelantum, 226. Leleges, 75. Lemon - groves: — Cos, 342 Naxos, 322. Poros, 301. Lemont, M., 228. Lenaeum, 192. Lents in the Greek church, four in the year, 21. Leon, 313. Leondari, 268, 279. -to Mavromati, 280. Leonidas at Thermopylae, 217 ; his “ tomb,” 267. Leonidi, 37. Lepanto, battle of, 91, 120, 235. See Naupactus. Lepenu, 246, 247. Lepton, no. Lernean Marsh, 259, 264. Lesch, 400. Leschae, 1S1. Lessa, 257 ; river, 256. Letrini, 294. Letters of introduction,^. Leucadia (Santa Maura), out¬ line of its history, 75 ; pre¬ sent condition, 76 ; the Forts, 77 ; the Lagoon, 78 ; ruins of the ancient Leiicas, 79; productions, 78 ; frequency of earthquakes, 77 ; excur¬ sions, 79, Leucadian Apollo, 80. Leucse, 356. Leucas, 75, 78 ; ruins of the ancient city, 79. Leucates, 76. Leuce, 88. Leucimne, 67, 68, 115. Leucophrys, 331. Leuctra, 212, 276. -to Lebadea, 212. Leuka, river, 293. Leuterochori, 413. Levant, grand tour of the, 9 ; best Lazzarettos, 14. Levetsoba to Marathonisi, 271. Levinge, Mr., his apparatus for protection from vermin, 5. Lezini, 250. Liakura, 239. Liapes, 49. Liates, 405. Libanova, 413. Libochovo, 394. Libraries : — iEgina, 254. A- thens, 132. Mt. Athos, 421. Corfu, 57, 60. Patmos, 340. Lido, 76. Likeri, Lake, 230, 232. Limeni, 271, 276. Limnasa, 371. Limnea, 247. Limona, 273. Lindus, 347. Linguetta, La, 403. Linovrokhi, Lake, 248. Lion, colossal, near Nauplia, 257 - Lissos, 368. Lissus, 400. Livada, 368. Livadi, Lake, 230, 232. Liiis, 98. Livadiana, 372. Livitazza, 69. Lixuri, 71, 75. Locri Czolae, 121, 235, 236. Long Island, 209. Long AValls of Athens, 142,198. Longos, 415. Lord High Commissioner, pow¬ ers of, 56. Luggage, 5. Lukiana, 370. Lukisi, 229. Lukovo, 406. Lundra, 397. Lundschi, 397. Luro, 388 ; river, 388. Lusakies, 366. Lusnja, 399. Liitra, 363. Lutraki (station of the vessels of the Austrian Lloyd's Steam-packet Company), 122, 251 ; excursion to Corinth, 123 ; the bay, 123, 126, 247. Lutziana, 251. Lycabettus, 137, 202. Lycaeus, Mount, 23, 281, 2S9. Lyceum, 197. Lydias, river, 413. Lygourio, 256, 257. Lykuria, 295. Lyons, Capt., 302. Lyrnessus, 331. Lysicrates, Choragic Monu¬ ment of, 191. Lytto, 362. Lyttos, 362. M. Macaria, 331. Macedonia, 413-435; popula¬ tion, 375; barrier b-tween Macedonia and Thessaly, 413. Macra Stoa, 200, 201. Macri, Theodora, 135. -island, 90. Maoris, 209, 335. Maeryplagi Mountains, 2S0, 283. Mamalus, Mount, 23, 266. Magnesia, 41c. Maid of Athens, 135. Mail, interior, 109, no. Maina, 268 ; government and beys, 268, 269 ; blood feuds, 270; every house a fortress, 270 ; towers, 274. Notes of a visit to, in 1844 , 436. -— Bassa, 268 ; Mesa, 269. Mainotes, character of, 29, 106, 268 ; mountains occupied by, 106, Maitland, Sir T„ his adminis¬ tration of the Ionian Islands, 55 ; temple in memory of, at Corfu, 65 ; monumental bust of, at Zante, 94. INDEX, 451 MAKERIANA. Makeriana, ;68. 5 Iakhala, 241, 251. Makhera, 251. Makrinoros, Pass of, 246. Makron Teikhos, 3 60. Malakassi, 407. Malaria, ij, 124. Nlalathria, river, 409, 417. Malaxa, 557. NIalea, Malia, Cape, 98, 277. Malgara, 454. Malta, village, 276. Mandianika, 228. Mandraki, J4 J. Mandri, Port, 209. Manduchio, 65. Manners of the Greeks, 45. Mantinea, 264, 265, 296 ; spot where Epaminondas fell, 26;. Manufactures, 109 ; silk gloves and stockings, Tenos, ill. Maps, 17. Marathon, 210. Tomb of the Athenians, 210. -to Chalcis, 220. Marathona, 209. -to Thebes, 210. Marathonisi, town, no, 274; island, 274. -to Passava, 274. -to Scutari, 274. Marble work, Tenian, ill. Mardonius, 22i. Margariti, i94. Mariand, 571. Maritza, river, 424. Markopulo (Attica), 209; (Euboea), 221. Marmara, i2i. Marmari, 27;. Marpessa, Nit., 424. Marriage customs, 46. Mars' Hill, 194. Martini, 2?o, 251. Masonry of the ancient Greeks, 24. See Cyclopean, Hellenic, Pelasgic, and Polygonal Ma¬ sonry. Matapan, Cape, 275. Matium, ?6o. Maurer, M. von, 102. Mauromichali, Constantine, 100. -, George, 100, 258. •-, Pietro, 100, 269, 276, 278, 299. Mauronero, river, 4ii. Mavrocordato, 2i2. Mavromati, 271, 280. -to Andrussa, 281. Mavronero, river, 216. Mavrovuni, 274. Mavro-vuno, 20i. Mavrozumeno, river, 283, 289. Mazi, 295, 296. Mazo, 569. Mazoma, J87. Measures and weights, in. Mecybema, 416. Megali Panaghia, church of, 180. Megalo-kdstron, j?2, i6o. MIDEA, Megalonesi, j66. Megalopolis, 26s, 289. Megancsi, or Meganesion, 78, 89. Meganisi, 248. Meganites, 121. Megara, 24?. -to Athens: by sea, 243; by Eleusis, 244. —— to Corinth, 24?. Megaspeliou (Megaspelamn), Convent of, 240. -to Kalabryta and Andrit- zena, 29;. Melamphyllus, 338. Melas, river, 216. Meleager, i4o. Membliarus, 421. Mendeli, 116, 202. Menecrates, tomh'of, 66. Menidhi, 204. Menzil, 8, 15, 479. Merchants, Greek, their his¬ tory, progress, and position, 104. Merdites. 49. Merit, Order of, 10 3. Merlera, island, 68. Merope, 416. Meropis, 441. Mesa Maina, 269. Mesara, 464, 3 71. Mese, 67. Meskla, 470. Mesogaea, 209. Mesoghia, 466. Mesokborio, 464. Mesolonghi, 116, 242; resi¬ dence of a British Vice-Con¬ sul, 244; the siege, 242-244; death of Byron at, 244. Mesolonghi to Calydon (Kurt- Aga), 248. - to Vonitza and Prevesa, 245 - -- to Vonitza, by (Eniad®, Porta, and Katuna, 249. Messa, 275. Messapium, 229. Messapius, Mt„ 224. Messaria, 415, 447. Messene, 280. Metagenes, birthplace of, 460. Metallon, 364. Metaxata, 74. Meteora, 408. Methana, 256. MethoDe, 98, 41 3. Methymna, 442, iii,"i65. Metolibi, 294. Metokhia, 241. Metope, 25. Metropolis, 247. Metzovo, 50, 52, 406, 407. Mezapo, 275. Miaulis, capture of, by Lord Nelson, 400; destroys the Hellas frigate, 402; his tomb, 400. Micon, 184. I Midea, 257. MONASTERIES. Migonimn, 274. Mikra Kaiimene, 421. Milton's summary of the cli¬ mate, scenery, and associa¬ tions of Athens, 147. Mina, 269. Mines: - Alum, Melos, 417. Gold and Silver, Siphnos, 416. Pitch, Selinitza, 402. Sul¬ phur, Melos, 417. Minerva, 145-147, 154, 155 - 162, 179, 224, 24;, 254, 299. Minoa, 274, 421, 464. Minos, 449. Minyaj, 410. Minyas, Treasury of, 216; tomb, 216. Mirabcllo, 464. Miraka, 292. Mirdiies, 401. Mi ska, 284. Mistra, 266. Mnesicles, 156. Mocenigo, Count, 54. Mocrologists, 47. Modon, 2S7. -to Coron, 287. Molibo Pyrgo, 416. 51 olivo, 44 ?. 5 Iolo, 216, 218. - to Drachmano, 219. Nlonasteries, Greek, 45, 102. Aetos, 251. Anapbe, 421. Athens :•—Daphne, 205, 244. Holy Trinity, 204. Corfu : — Paleocastrizza, 67. San Salvador, 68. Crete : — Arkadi, 464. Ar- Siini, 458. Asomatos, 464. Elias, 457. Epano-Siphes, 461. Gonia, 465. Katho- lico, 456. St. Eleutherios, 455. St. George, 461. St. Nicholas, 474. DelphiPanaghia, 247. St. Elias, 248. Hydra, 400. Lezini, 250. Lygourio, 257. Nleteora, 408. 5 fount Athos, tour of the Monasteriesof:—St. Anne, 426. Batopaedion, 424. Cara- callus, 425. Constamonites, 427. St. Dionysius, 426. Docheiareion, 427. Es- phigmenu, 424. St. Gre¬ gory, 426. Iberians, 425. Khiliandarion, 424. Kut- lumush, 425. Laura, 425. Pantokrator, 425. St. Paul, 426. Philotheus, 425. Rus- sicon, 427. Simopetra, 426. Stauroniketes, 425. St. Xenophon, 427. Xeropo- tamos, 426. Zographus, 427 - Mount Evas, 280, 281. -Helicon, 212. -Hypatus, 224. 452 INDEX. MONASTERIES. Monasteries— continued :— Myconos, 311. Parnassus, 217. Patmos, 340. Pollina, 498. Port Kaio, 276. Porta, 251. Santa Maura, 80. Sciathos, 3 28. Scripu, 215. Scyros, 326 . Siphnos : — The Fountain, 416. St. Elias, 316. Sosino, 381. Suda, 356. Tragamesti, 251. VIokho, 246. Yonitza, 247, 248. Zagora, 212. Monasticism, primitive idea of, 55 - Monastir, residence of a British Consul, 429. Mone, 368. Monembasia, 272. -to Phiniki, 273. Money:— Circular notes, let¬ ters of credit, bills, 7 ; circu¬ lation in the Ionian Islands, 59; in the Kingdom of Greece, 110; in Albania, Thessaly, and Macedonia, 376. Mongredien, Mr., his Report on the Com Trade from the Mediterranean and Black Seas, 104. Monoxylon, 232. Montenegrins, 50, 401. Monte Nero, 73. Monuments :—Ancient Greek, Delos, 311 ; to Prince Deme¬ trius Hypsilanti, 258 ; to Karaiskaki, 201 ; to Miaulis, 300; of Philopappus, 189. Sepulchral: the Marble Lion at Chaeronea, 214; of the Greeks who fell at Ther- mopylse, 217. Morea, 253-301; English Con¬ sul, 119 ; Castle, 120, 297. Moreots, character of the, 107. Morosini, 200. Morritt, Mr., 268, 276, 277. Mosaic pavement at ASgina, 254; in the church of Me- gaspelaeon, 241. Mothon, 287. Mothone, 287. Mount jEgaleos, 205. ^Enus, 73 . Aliakes, 370. Anoge, 81. Apelauron, 259. Arachne, 257. Aracynthus, 232, 245. Artemira, 346. Athos, 418. Bala, 283. Barnabas, 220. Bizani, 272. Biilessus, 202. Bumisto, 247. Calamos, 317. Cbaon, '259. Chelmos, 295. Cithajron, 23, 207. Cnemis, 216. Cycnias, 311. Cyllene, 23. Cynthus, 310. Dia, 323. Dryscos, 382, 406. Flatus, MULES. 95. Erymanthus, 23. Evas, 23, 280. Exoge, 89. Geranea, 23. Griva, 397. Helicon, 23, 108, 212. Hellenitza, 280. Hymettus, 23, 202, 203. Ida, 23, 349 . Ithome, 23, 280; ascent, 281. Jiiktas, 361. Kalkitza, 250. Kendros, 370. Kerata, 206, 244. Khelmos, 294. Kirphis, 239. Kophinos, 364. Ktypa, 224, 229. Lac- mos, 407. Liakura, 239. Lycaaum, Lyc*us, 23, 281, 289. Maenalus, 23, 266. Marpessa, 324. Melidoni, 3J_8. Messapius, 224. Metzi- Keli, 382, 406. Mycale, 337. Neium, 89. Neritos, 88. Nero, 73. (Eta, 22, 108, 217. Olonos, 293, 294. Olympus, 22, 411. Ossa, 22, 411. Othiys, 22. Palamede, 257. Panachaicum, 118. Pame- tolium, 246. Pangasus, 433. Parnassus, 23, 106, 108, 215 ; ascent, 216, 239. Pames, Parnon, 23, 266. Parthenium, 264. Pentelicus, 23, 202. Phicium, 231. Phterolako, 357 - PiDdus, 22, 23, 109; ascent of the central ridge, 407. Ptoum, 230, 231. Rho¬ dope, 434. St. Elias, 275. St._Nicholas.287. St. Stephen, 84. Sandameri, 293. Santa Decca, 68. Saos, Saoce, 330. Serrium, 434. Skopos, 92, 95. Skroponeri, 230. Soro, 224. Sphingium, 231. Tay- getus, 23, 266, 268. Ten Saints, 68. Tetrazi, 288. Tomarus, 382. Tschika, 404. Varnava, 220. Velutzi, 251. Viena, 246. Vlokho, 246. Voidhia, 117, 118. Vumisto, 251. Za-longos, 92. Zia, 323. Ziria, 296. Zygos, 245, 407. Mountains : — Acarnania,j 95, 116. Acroceraunian, 63,403. -Etolia, 95, 116. Agrapha, 247. Arcadia, 95. "Black, 73, 95. Caramanian, 346. Chrysovitzi, 251. Croia, 431. Delphi, 227. Dictaean, 363. Drama, 433. Geranean, 23, 123. Icarian, 337. Katuna, 247, 251. Kroniac, 292. Ma- cryplagi, 280, 283. Makhala, 247. Messenia, 95. Monte¬ negro, 401. Nemertzka, 394. Olytzika, 388. Onean, 123. Peloponnesus, 116. Pergandi, 251. San Salvador, 68. Stamna, 249. Varnaka, 247. White, 349, 371. Muchli, 264. Mudari, 371. Mules not more sure-footed in mountainous districts than horses, 15; caution against their lying down suddenly in I NAXOS. the middle of a river, is, 16. Muller, 0 . K„ grave of, 196. Munychia, 197, 198, 200. Mure, Col., on the Acro- Corinthus, 123. Muri, 371. Murni, 357. Murnies, 353. Murto, 69. Muses, Sanctuary of the, 212. Museum, hill, 137, 188. Museums : — Gymnasium of Hadrian, 181 ; National, of Athens, 185. Mustapha Pasha, 234. Mycale, Mount, 337. Mycenae, 260. Citadel, 261. Gate of the Lions, 261. Treasury of Atreus, 261. -to Argos, 262. Mylse, 366. Myli, 259. Mylopotamo, 358. Mylopotamos, 98. Myrina, 330. Myrtoan Sea, 303. Myrtos, 363. Mytika, 252, 385 ; plain, 251. Mytilene, 331, 332. Myupoli, 207. N. Napier, Sir Charles, his sum¬ mary of the Ionian character, 57 - Napoleon. See Bonaparte. Napoli di Malvasia, 273. -di Romania, 257. Narthex, 35. Naupactus ( Ital . Lepanto ; Gr. Epakto) : the battle, 91, 235; mediaeval fortifications, 120; historical notice, 121. Nauplia (Napoli di Roma¬ nia) : Inns, 257. Forts, 258. Church of St. Spiridion (scene of Capo d’lstria’s as¬ sassination), 258. Monument to Prince Demetrius Hypsi¬ lanti, 258. Nauplia, Synod of, 103. Nauplia to Argos, by Tiryns and Mycenae, 259.'' -to Athensby Hydra, Poros, &c„ 298. -to Corinth by Nemea, 297. -to Patras, 297. Nauplius, 257. Nausicae, 66. Navale Aigirae, 242. Navarino, 284. The battle, 32, 33, 2S5. Navarino Vecchio, 286. -— to Cyparissia (Arcadia), 288. Navy, royal, 104; mercantile, 44, 104. Naxos, Duchy of, 312, 318, 319, 320, 322 ; peasantry, 106. INDEX. 453 NEA ERETRIA. Nea Eretria, 226. -Kaiimene, 321. -Mintzcla, 410. Ne«, 331. Neapolis, 433. Neda, river, 290. Negropont, 224. Neium, Mount, 89. Nelson, Lord, his treatment of Miaulis, 300. Nemea, 297, 293. -by Corinth to Nauplia, 297. Nemertzka, 394. Nemesis, the Rhamnusian, 220. Neochori, 395. Neochorio, 433. Neokastron, 284. Neokhori, 249. Neomaras, 346. Neon, 217. Neptune, 208, 240, 275, 299, 301. Nericos, 75, 78. Neritos, Mount, 84, 88. Nero, Monte, 73. Nesiot®, 72. Nessus, 248. Nestus, river, 434. Newton, Mr., British Consul at Lesbos, 333 . Nicephorus Phocas, 361. Nicolochus, 252. Nicopolis, 81, 11;, 386. Aque¬ duct, 387. Palace, 387. Cas¬ tle, 387. Stadium, 387. Thea¬ tres, 387. Nike Apteros, Temple of, 148, 151,155, 156. Nikita, 416. Nine Ways, 433. Nireus, 343. Nisi, 247 ; plains of, 282. -to Thuria, 282. Nisvoro, 418. Nisyros, 348. Nithavri, 364. Noel, Mr., 227. Noin tel, M. de, 325. Nokid, 365. Nomarch, 101. Nomes, Greece divided into ten, 101. Nonacris, 296. Nopia, 365. Northern Greece, grand tour of, 112, 114; character of the people, 106. Nymph ana, 341. Nymphseum (Hill of the Nymphs), 185 ; (pitch forma¬ tion on the banks of the Viosa), 402. Nymphs, Grotto of the, 84. 0. Oak's Heads, Pass, 207. Oaths, judicial, 102. OTHRYS. Obol, 59. Observatory at Athens, 133. Odeum of Herodes or Regilla, 193; of Pericles, 192. Odysseus, Gen., 147, 214. [ (Edipus, 216; scene of his | death, 196. (Enia, (Eniad®, 90, 249. CEnbe, 207, 211, 319. 337 - CEnuss®, 98. j (Eta, Mount, 22, 108, 217. (Etylus, 276. Ogla, 246. j Oke, hi. Olcinium, 401. j Olenus, 293. Olive, cultivation of the: — Amaxichi, 77. Avlona, 402. Cephallenia, 73. Chryso, 236. Corfu, 67. Ithaca, 82. Leu- cadia, 77, 78, 79. Liates, 405. Naupactus, 121. Naxos, 322. Parga, 392. Prevesa, 384. Salona, 236. Sclavo-Khorio, I 272. Zante, 9;, 96. Olonos, Mt., 293, 294. I Olophyxus, 419. ! oip.i:, 247. 1 Olympia, 292 ; valley, 23. ; Olympiad, dates of first and j last, 292. Olympieum, 190. Olympiodorus, 200. Olympus, Mount, 22, 411. Olynthus, 416. Omalos, 370. Omer Vrioni, 232. Onchesmus, 381, 406. Onean Mountains, 123. Onugnathus, 98. Ophis, river, 265. Ophiussa, 344. Opisthodomos, 25. Oracle of Trophonius, 213. Orchestra, 25. j Orchomenus, 212; site of the Boeotian, 215. Orders of Grecian architecture, 26; of Knighthood, 57, 103. Oreat®, 37. Oreos, 228. -(Euboea) to Chalcis, 227. | Oricum, 403. Ormylia, 416. Oropo, Oropus, 211, 221. Oros, 67, 253. Orphano, 433. -, Palaeo, 433. Orpheus, tomb of, 413. Orth uni, 370. Ortygia, 308. Osiris, inscriptions illustrative of the Egypto-Roman wor¬ ship of, at Chaeronea, 214. Ossa, Mount, 22, 411. Ostanitza, 398. Ostrovo, 429. Otho proclaimed King, 100. Othomis, 68. Othrys, Mount, 22. PANTALEONE. P. Packets. See Steam-packets. P®onid®, 204. Pagania, 69. Pagas®, 410. Pagas®an Gulf, 229. Painting, illustration of the polychromatic, of the an¬ cients, in the University of Athens, 132. Paintings :—Palace at Athens, 133. Church at Megaspelion, 241. Monasteries : St. Eleu- therios, Crete, 355; Gonia, Crete, 365 ; Zographus, Mt. Athos, 427. I’al®a Achaia, 293. Pal®ologus, Andronicus, 241. -, Constantine, 241. Pal®o Phanaro, 292. Pal®ste, 405. Palaia Kaiimene, 321. HaAator Kac rrpov (Paleo-kas- tron), the common term for a “ ruin ” among the Greek peasants, 86. Cimolos, 317. Cythnos, 315. Ios, 320. Kacaletri, 288 . Kandili, 251. Kekhropulo, 248. Kfsamo- Kastelli, 366. Klisura, 289. Porta, 251. Rogdia, 362. Bay of Suda, 356. Palamedes, 257. Palasa, 405. Palati, 323. Palatia, 348. Pale, 71. Palea Episcope, 394. -Lutra, 282. -Monembasia, 273. Paleocaglia, 78. Paleocastrizza, 67. Paleopolis, 97, 265, 271, 274, 293, 362. Palicars, 30. Paliokhora, 269. Pallantium, 264, 265. Pallas, 327. Pallene, 415. Palombino, 24. Palus Acherusia, 392. -Bistonis, 434. -Cercinitis, 433. -Nesonis, 411. Pamisus, river, 280, 282; source, 283. Panachaicum, Mount, 118. Panactum, 20;. Pan®tolicon, 246. Pan®totium, Mt., 246. Panaghiotti Kumunduro, 268. Panathenaic Stadium, 189. Pandeleimon, 250. Pandroseum, 175. Panopeus, 215. Panormus, 73, 311, 406. Pantaleone, San, Pass of, 67, 68 . 454 INDEX. PAPA, CAPE. Papa, Cape, 293. Papalakos, 370. Paralia, 199. Paralimni, Lake, 230. Pararaythia, 388. Parga, 115, 376, 392. -— to Joannina, by Suli and Dramisius, 389. Parian Chronicle, 324. Parnassus, Mount, 23, 108, 215; chief place where the Hellenic race has maintained itself, 106 ; ascent, 216, 239 ; remains of the Via Sacra, 216 ; prospect from the sum¬ mit, 239. Pames, Parnon, Mt„ 23, 202, 266. Paroekia, 323. Paromia, 269. Parthenium, Mt„ 264. Parthenon. See Acropolis of Athens. Pashley, Mr., 356. Passaron, 38S, 389. Passava, 271, 274. -to Marathonisi by Paleo- polis, 274. Passes :—Akhrida, 430. As- kyfo, 370. Daphne, 205, 244. Dukadhes, 404. Garuna, 68. “ The Gates,” (Crete,) 373. Makrinoros, 246. Oak's Heads, 207. San Liberale, 73. San Pantaleone, 67, 68. Schiste, 216. Tempe, 411. Thermopyhe, 217, 218. Three Heads, 207. Tretus, 262. Tschlka, 405. “ The Turk's,” (Crete,) 373. Zygos, 52 - Passports, 7, 8. Patissia, 202. Patradjik, 247. Patras ( Or. Patr®; Hal. Pa- trasso) :—Inns, 117. Historical notice, 117. Residence of the English Consul for the Morea, 119. Castle, 117-119. Mount Voidhia, 118. Church of St. Andrew, 11S. Site of the Temple of Ceres, 117. Well of Ceres, 118. Population, 119. Manu¬ factures, 119. Imports and exports, 120. Cultivation of the currant-vine, 117. Shoot¬ ing, 119. Patras to Athens, 112. -to Athens, by Mesolonghi, Delphi, Vostitza, and Corinth, 232. —— through Elis and Arcadia to Cyparissia, 290. -to Nauplia, 297. - to Pyrgos by Gastuni, 294. -to Tripolitza, 295. Paulizza, 290. PHANEROMENE. Pausanias, tour in the foot¬ steps of, 114 ; his account of the Acropolis of Athens, 151. Paxos (Paxo), 70, 115. Peali, 264. Peasantry : — condition, 106, 109 ; cottages, 21, 109 ; food, 46, 109 ; costumes, 67, 250; women, 6s. Pedias, 363. Pediment, 25. Pege, 358. Pelagonia, 429. Pelagus, 265. Pelasgi, 144. Pelasgia, 331. Pelasgians, 330. Pelasgic car drawn by oxen still used in Thessaly, 413. Pelasgic masonry, 24 ; fine ex¬ amples at Mycenae, 24; at Athens, 145. Pelasgicum, 144, 147. Pelekanas, 36s. Pella, birthplace of Alexander the Great, 413. Pelleka, 68. Pellene, 242. Pelodes Limen, 69. Peloponnesians, character of, 106, 107. Peloponnesus (Morea), 253 ; nomes comprised in, 101 ; grand tour of, 112. Pemdnia, 370. Pendepigadia, 389. Penelope, Grave of, 87. Peneus, river, 22, 293, 411 ; source, 407. Penrose, Mr., 175. Pentele, Pentelicus, 23, 202. Peparethus, 328. Pera-Gonf, 371. Perama, 358. Pergamos, 365. Pergandi, Mt„ 251. Peribolus, 25. Pericles, 139, 253. Perinthus, 4.34. Peripteral, 25. Peristyle, 25. Perivolia, 364. Perseus, 260. Petala, 90, 250. Petalas, 83. Petalhidi, 287. Petalfda, 366. Petres, 371. Petzae, 299. Peukos, Lower, 363. Peupli, 430. Phaaacia, 66. Phalanx, 104. Phalasarna, 3 66. Phaleriau Wall, 142. Phalerum, 197. Phanari, Port, 115, 197. Phanariots, 29, 106. Phaneromene, Convent of, 243. PLAKOTOS. Phanias, birthplace of, 332. Pharsalus, 409. Pheneos, 296. Phera, 321. Pherae, 283, 410. Pherecydes, birthplace of, 306. Phereh, 434. Phersala, 409. Phicium, Mt„ 231. Phidaro, river, 248. Phidias superintends the build¬ ing of the Parthenon, 159 ; statue of Minerva by, 153 ; of Jupiter at Olympia, 292. Phigaleia, 290. Philates, 381. Philia, 296. Philiatra, 288. Philip of Macedon at Cha-ronea, 214. Philip, Portico of, Delos, 309. Philippi, 433. Philippo, 364. Phiniki, 406; plains of, 272, 273 - -to Durali by Cape Xyli, „ 273 - Philopappus, Monument of, 189. Philopoemen, 281; his birth¬ place, 289. Phlius, 294. Phloka, 292. Phoenice, 331, 373, 406. Phoenicus, 97. Phoenix, city, 371. Phonia, 294, 296. Phorcys, 84. Phormion, 249. Phoroneus, 263. Phreattys, 201. Pbumi, 337. Phykias, 315. Phyle; 203. Piadha, the village where the first Greek Congress met, 255. 256. Pictures in Greek churches, 36. See Paintings. Pidhima, river, 282, 283. Pierian region, 413. Pietro Bey, 100, 269, 276, 278. Pikemaes, 406. Pilaster, 25. Pileus, 85. Pilieri, 405. Pinacotheca, 151, 157. Pinaka, 415. Pindus, Mount, 22, 23, 109, 407. Piraeus and the Port-Towns, 197. Pirene, fountain of, 125, 126. Pisa, valley of, 292. Pisistratus, 139, 140, 191. Pitch-wells of Zante, 92. Pitch-mines of Selinitza, 402. Pittacus, birthplace of, 332. Pittakys, M„ 135, 152. Pityusa, 335. Plakotos, 320. INDEX 455 FLAT.EA. Plataea, :i2. -to Thebes, 2x1. Platamona, 411, 417. Platana, 212. Platanaki, Monastery of, 224. Platania, 465. Platia, 250. Plato, 196. Platza, 276. -to Skardamnla, 276. I’leistus, river, 277. Plemmeliana, 770. Pleuron, 27;. 24;. Plutarch, birthplace of 217 ; Throne of 214. Pnyx, 177, 185. Poecilum, 205. Poeeessa, 717. PcEkilassos, 77?. Poetry, popular, of Greece, 29, jo; native land of the .Eolian school of Lyric, 772. Police, 104. Polighyro, 416. Polin, 748. Polino, 717. Polis, 89, 757. Politika, 226, 27O. Polyaegos, 717. Polyandrium of the Greeks who fell at Thermopylae, 217. Polybius, his birthplace, 289. Polybotes, 742. Polychromatic painting of the ancients, illustration of, 172. Polychronopulos, Elias (travel¬ ling servant), 129, 170. Polycletus, 256. Polycrates, 778. Polygnotus, 151. Polygonal masonry, 24. Abae, 219. Argos, 267, Axos, 759. Cephallenia, 72. Chryso, 2?6. Davlia (Daulis), 215. Delphi, 278. Leucas, 79. Mantinea, 265. Melos, 718. Mvcenaj, 24. CEniadae, 250. Porta, 251. Tanagra, 221. Polyrrhenia, 766. Pomoni, Demetrius, (travelling servant), 129,170. Pompey after Pharsalia, 412. Poros, 104, 701 ; bay, 72. Porphyris, 97. Porphyro-Genitus,Constantine, 268. Porri, 98. Porta, 251. Portico, 25; of Philip, Delos, 709. . Porto Leone, 197, 200. Port towns of Athens, 142. PortsAchilleion, 726. .Egi- lia, 98. .Egina, 254, yEgira, 242. Andros, 7x2. Arta, 788. Aulis, 222, 224. Bathy, 84. Calamitza, 726. Catena, 716. Cerigotto, 98. Dexia, 84. Drako, 197, 200. Durazzo, 400. Eion, 477. Elis, 95, 295. PROTE. Epidaurus, 255. Forty Saints, I 406. Frikes, 88. Gaio, 70. I Galaxidi, 216, 275. Gomaros, 7S5. lulis, 717. Kaio, Quaglio, 275, 276. Kalamaki, 127. Kapsali, 97. Khania, 755. Lemnos, 770. Leone, 197, 200. Limeni, 271, 276. ; Liiis, 98. I.utniki, X22. Lutrdn, 752, 771, 777. Lyttos, | 762. Mandri, 209. Marmari, 275. Mezapo, 275. Nauplia, 257. tEniadse, 250. Oliaros, 725. Oreos, 228. Palea Mo-I nembasia, 277. Palerimo, 406. I’arga, 792. Perintbus, 474. Phandri, 115, 197, 790, 792. Phoenicus, 97. Phoenix, 752, 771 . 777 - Phorcys, 84. Polis, 89. Puria, 726. Pyrgos, 297. Raphti, 209. St. Irene, 715. Samos, 779. Santa Quaranta, 1 406. Scnoenus, 127, 247. Stylidha, 218, 229. Tolon, 259. Trimpouchais, 726. Vathy, 275. Viscardo, 77. Poseidium, 777. Poseidon, 127, 707, 742. Posidio, Posi- dium, 748, 416. Posin, 748. Posticum, 25. Post-office system, 109. Potidaea, 41 j. Praesos, 767. Prasiae, 209. Prasonesi, 766. Prasonisi, 98. Pratique, 14. Pravista, 477. Precinctiones, 25. Premedi, 798. Presba, 470. Presents, 7. Press, the, 104. Prevesa, 8x; residence of a British Vice-Consul, 784. -to Jodnnina by Arta, 788; by Nicopolis and Suli, 784. -and Vonitza to Mesolon- ghi, 245. Primate, 29. Prine, 757. Prinus, 264. “Prison of Socrates,” 189. Prisoners, only example in an¬ tiquity of a cartel for the exchange of, 745. Prisrend, 475. Proaulax, 422. Prodano, 288. Prodicus, birthplace of, 717. Prodormi, 768. Proetus, 260. Pronesiote, 72. Pronesus, 72. Proni, 72. Pronia, 259. Propylaea, 149-152, 156-158. Prosnero, 770. Prote, 288. R1IIDM. Protogeron, 268. Provisions, 20, 21. Prdvlaka, 422. Provveditori, 57. Prytaneum, 191, 192. Psariots, character of, 106; have the characteristic Hel¬ lenic features, 106. Pselorites, 764. Pseudisodomuin, 151, 181. I’sophis, 92, 294. Psyttale;i, 205. Ptelid, 69, 711. Ptolemy, Gymnasium of, 181. Ptoum, Mt„ 270, 271. Ptychia, 66. Punta, 248, 785. Pydna, 417. Pylos, 286. l’yrasos, 410. Pyrgo (Crete), 764. Pyrgos of Alidhdkes, 770. -(Crete), 762, 765. -(Inner Maina), 269, 275. -between Mt. Olonos and the Alpheus, 292. - (Thera), 721. Pyrgos (Peloponnesus) to Pa¬ tras by Gastuni, 294. Pyrrha, 772. Pyrrhic dance, 46, 67. Fyrrhus, 789. Pythagoras, birthplace of, 779. Pythia’s bath, 217. Q. Quarantine, 17, 69. Quinine pills indispensable, 7 . 1?. Quintal, 111. E. Racli, valley of, 72. P.aki, 20. Rapanidi, 770. Raphti, Port, 209. Raveni, 781. Rayah, 28, 71. Becinto, 247. Reithrum, 89. Religion, 102, 109. Reschid Pasha, 277. Resident, powers of, 56. Resna, 470. Reveniko, 417. Revenue, 101. Revolution, General Gordon’s History of the, 107. Revolution, a model, ioq, 177. Rhamne, 770. Rhamnus, 220. Rhaucos, 762. Rheiti, 205, 244. Rhigas, 71. Rhithymna, Rhithymnos, 752, . 758 . R,hium, 118, 120. 456 INDEX. RHIZA. Rhiza, 355, 370, 371. Rhizo-Kastron, 363. Rhizoma, 370, 371. Rhocca, 365. Rhododaphne, 82. Rhodope, Mt„ 434. Rhodosto, 434. Rhoecus, 338. Rhoka, 361. Rhotes, 364. Richard I. of England at Cor- cyra, 62. Ricord, Adm„ 302. Risari Ecclesiastical Seminary, 132. Rivers, probable cause of the want of navigable, 108. Achelous, 81, 90, 108, 232, 247, 249 ; source, 407. Ache¬ ron, 115, 388, 390. Alpheus, 23, 289, 291-293. Amphites, 289. Aous, 396,398 ; source, 407. Aposelemi, 362. Ap- sus, 398. Aracthus, 389. Ar- gyro Kastro, 394. Aris, 282, 283. Aroanius, 296. Arta, its source, 407. Asopus, 211, 212, 221. Aspropotamo, 81, 90, 108, 232, 247, 249; source, 407. Axos, 359. Balyra, 283, 289. Baphyrus, 413. Bendscka, 396. Beratino, 398. Bojana, 401. Buraicus, 240. Busi, 290. Celydnus, 405. Cephissus, 137, 199, 202, 217, 223, 230; plain, 219 ;—Eleu- sinian, 207, 244. Charadrus, 210, 388. Cocytus, 388, 392. Crathis, 242, 296. Deropoli, 394 - 396. Dhikova, 275. Dirce, 211. Drilo, 400, 431. Drin, 400, 431. Elixus, 313. Enipeus, 409, 413. Erasinus, 259. Eridanus, 203. Er- mitza, 245. Erymanthus, 294. Euripus, 211; the bridge, 222, 225. Eurotas, 266, 272, 273, 279. Evenus, 232, 248. Genusus, 399, 431. Glaucus, 293. Haliacmon, its source, 407; ferry, 413. Hebrus, 434. Helissou, 289. Her- cyna, 213. Ilissus, 137, 202, 203. Inachus, 262. Indje Karasd, its source, 407 ; fer¬ ry, 413. Ismenus, 211. Kaera- tos, 362. Kakorema, 288. Kalabryta, 240. Kalamas, 69, 381. Kamara, 365. Ka- rasmak, ferry, 413. Karasa, 434. Klinovo, 407. Kokla, 288. Ladon, 294-296. La- rissus, 293. Lessa, 256. Reuka, 293. Luro, 388. Ly¬ dias, ferry, 413. Malatbria, 409, 413. Maritza, 434. Mauronero, ferry, 413. Mav- ronero, 216. Mavrozumeno, 283. Melas, 216. Metzovo, 406. Mylopotamos, 98. Ne- ST. CONSTANTINE. da, 290. Nestus, 434. Ophis, 265. Pamisus, 280, 282; source, 283. Peneus, 22, 293; source, 407. Phidaro, 248. Pidhima, 282, 283. Pierus, 293. Pleistus, 237. Salam- vria, its source, 407. Selinus, 240. Skumbi, 399, 431. Sperchius, 218. Strati, 369. Stryinon, 433. Stymphalus, 259. Styx, 295 ; the Falls, 296. Sudsuro, 363. Suli, 388. Thyamis, 69, 381. Tri¬ ton, 362. Typhlos, 365. Yardari, 413. Yiosa, 396, 398 ; source, 407. Vistritza, its source, 407 ; ferry, 413. Vuvo, 388, 392. Xerillo, 289. Zagori, 406. Roads, 15. Rodovani, 368. Rogdia, 362. Romaic, a name applied to the modern Greek language, 37. Romaika (national dance), 46, 67. Roman highway from Rome to Constantinople, 434. Roman remains :—Argos, 263. Buthrotum, 70. Cephallenia, 72, 73. Corinth, 125, 127. Gythium, 274. Levetsoba, 271. Mesolonghi, 248. Neo- chori, 395. Nicopolis, 386. Palea Lutra, 282. Paleo- polis, 274. Patras, 118. Punta, 248. Sparta, 266. Vathy, 274. Romanates, 389. Romans, the name by which the Greek peasantry gener¬ ally style themselves, 37. Romouni. See AVallachs. Roppa, Val di, 69. Roumelia, Castle of, 120. Routes, List of, ix. --from England to Greece, 4. Rumeliots, character of, 107. Rustika, 357. s. Sacra, 212. Sacred AYar, 236. Sacred AYay, 205. Sagara, 212. Sahta, 364. Sailors, customs and language of modern, identical with those of ancient Greece, 19 ; their propensity for putting in at every port they ap¬ proach, 305. St. Andrew, town, Cimolos, 317; cathedral church, Pa¬ tras, 118. St. Angelo, castle, Corfu, 67. St. Basil, village, Crete, 363 ; Mount Pergandi, 251. St. Constantine, village, Crete, 157 - SALTONA. St. Demetrius, village, Crete, J7i. 3 72 . St. Dionysius of Zante, shrine o of, 94. St. Elias, hamlet, Stamna, 249. St. Euphemia, village, Galax- idi, 235. St. George, chapel, Athens, 137; castle, Cephallenia, 75; town, Scyros, 326. St. Gerasimus, convent, 73. St. Helena, town, Andritzena, 291. St. Irene, village, Crete, 370. St. Kyriakos, village, Crete, 368. St. Marina, village, Crete, 365. St. Mary's on the Rock, 189. St. Michael and St. George, Order of, 57. St. Minas, Bay of, 225. St. Myron, village, Crete, 362. St. Nicholas, harbour, 97 ; sup¬ pressed monastery, Mt. Heli¬ con, 212; monastery, Sta. Maura, 80; town, 'Tenos, 310. St, Nicodemus, church, Athens, H 4 - St. Paul’s visit to Crete, 372. St. Photia, village, Crete, 364. St. Rumeli, village, Crete, 373. St. Spiridion, shrine of, 65. St. Stephen, Mount, 84. St. Theodore, church, Athens, 134 - Sakona, 280. Salagora, 388. Salamis, 244; strait where the battle was fought, 205 ; is¬ land, 206. Salamvria, river, its source, 407. Salganeus, 229. Salmatraki, island, 68. Salmone, 372. Salona, 236. -to Gravia, 216. Salonica (Thessalonlca, Ther- ma), 413. Residence of a British Consul, 415. Steam¬ ers, 415. Population, 414. Commerce, 415. Shooting, 415 . Citadel (the Seven Tow¬ ers), 414. Propylamm of the Hippodrome (Incantadas), 414. Churches and mosques, 414. Gate of Vardar, or A r ardari (Triumphal Arch of Augustus), 414. Arch of Constantine, 414. Salonica to Mount Athos by Cassandra and back to Sa¬ lonica, 415. -to Constantinople, 432. --to Larissa, 410. -to Scutari, by Monastir, Elbassan, and Croia, 428. Saltona, 80. INDEX. 457 SALTPETRE. Saltpetre made by boiling the ; earth, 272. Salt-springs near the Pass of Daphne, 20$. Salt-works. Avlona, 401. Samaria, 373. Same, 71, 72, 86. Samos, 71, 72, 86. Samuel the Caloyer, 391. San Giovanni di Patino, 339. 1 -Liberale, Pass, 73. -Pantaleone, Pass, 67, 68 . -Rocco, chapel, Khania, i 55 - -Salvador, mountain-chain, 64, 68. Sanctuary of .Esculapius, 256 ; of the Graces (Orchomenus), 215; the Muses, 212; Tro- phonius, 213. Sandameri, Mt„ 293. Sane, 419. Santorin, peasantry of, 106. Sanudo, Marco, 322. Santa Decca, 68. -Maria, Cape, 337. -Maura. See Leucadia. -Quaranta, 376, 406. - Rosa, Count, tomb of, 286 . -Sophia, cave, 98. Saos, Saoce, Mt„ 330. Sapienza, 98, 287. Sappho, birthplace of, 332. Sappho's Leap, 76, 79, 80. Sarcophagus, ancient, disco¬ vered near Arvi, 363. Sana, 348. Sarko, 362. Saronic Gulf, 244. Sarpi, Fra Paolo, 53. Sayddes, Saydda, residence of a British Vice-Consul, 376,381, J94- Sazona, 403. Scala, Cape, 72 ; village, 283. Scandea, 97. Scanderbeg, 48. Scaros, 321. Scheria, 61, 66. Schiste, Pass, 216. Schcenus, Port, 127, 243. School of Homer, 86, 88. Schools, 103; at Athens, 131, 132 ; at Hermopolis, 307. Schulemberg, Marshal, 62, 63 ; statue of, at Corfu, 65. Scillus, 291. Scirocco, 58. SciTonian Way, 243. Sclavokhorio, 271, 272. Sclavopula, 368. Scodra, 400. Scripu to Kapurna, 21;. Scutari (Scodra), residence of a British Vice-Consul, 400. -to Constantinople, 433. -to the Dalmatian Fron¬ tier and Cattaro, 401. Greece. SISI. Scutari to Delvino by Durazzo, 399 - -to Salonica, by Croia, El- bassan, and Monastir, 428. Sea-bathing, Corfu, 67. Seaton, Lord, his administra¬ tion of the Ionian Islands, Selinitza, 397 ; pitch-mines,402. Selino-Kastelli, 368. Selinus, town, 328; river, 240. Selivria, 434. Seminary for the training of schoolmasters, at Athens, 132; Risari Ecclesiastical, 132 . Senate :—Athens, 133 ; Ionian Islands, 56. Sengena, 231, 232. Senzina, Lake, 230, 232. Seraffs, 376. Seraglie (currant magazines), 96. Sepulchre of the Boeotians— the marble lion, 214. Sepulchres, ancient, near St. Kyriakos, 368. Serapis, 276, 299. Sermyle, 416. Serres, 433. Serrium, Mt„ 434. Servants, 14, 16, 60, ill ; travelling, names of several of the best, 16, 129, 130. Setia, 363. Shepherds' huts, 87. I Ship of Ulysses, 67, 68. Shooting, seasons for, 17; best stations, 18. Red deer, 250. Wolf, deer, and wild boar, 18, 69, 79, 80. Bear, 18. Wild goat, 18, 374. Fox, 18, ! 69. Lynx, 18. Jackal, 18, 69, 79, 80. Hare, 18, 69. Rabbit, 327.-Pheasant, 17, 415. Partridge, 17, 119, 250, 315, 321, 346, 356. Pelican, 80. Bustard, 18. Quail, 17, 68, 70, 98, 119, 276. Snipe and woodcock, 17, 69, 80, 95, 113, 119, 250, 293, 3 56, 39 2 > 41See Game. | Shops, 111. Shrines:—St. Dionysius, Zante, 94. St. Spiridion, Corfu, 65. San Salvador, Corfu, 68. Siamata, 224. Sicyon, 242. Sidero-Kastro, 290. | Sidus, 243. Signies, 68. Simonides, birthplace of, 313, 321. Sina, Baron, 133. Sinano, 268, 289. Sin ties, 330. Sinus Saronicus, 244; Strymo- | nicus, 433. Siren Isles, 356. ! Sirrhae, 433. | Sisi, convent, 74. STADIUM. Sithonia, 415. Sitsova, 279. Siva, 362. Skala, 272, 371. Skaloma, 249. Skamnia, 413. Skanderbeg, birthplace of, 431. Skardhamula, 269, 276. -to Kitries, 276. Skarus, 79. Skeleton tours, m. Skimatari, 211. Skimitari, 223. Skipetar. See Albanians. Skopos, Mount, 92, 9;. Skroponeri, Mount, 230. Skumbi, river, 399, 431. Skutari, 274. Socrates, “ Prison” of, 189; at Delium, 222. Sokastron, 348. Solos, 294, 296. Sopoti, 406. Sopotb, 294. Soro, Mt„ 224. Spada, Cape, 363. Spahides, 224. Spaniako, 369. Sparta, 266. “ Tomb of Leon¬ idas,” 267. Theatre, 267. Sparta, valley of, 23, 266. Sparta to Athens, 253. --to Gythium, 271. -to Helos, 271. —— to Kalamata: through Maina, 268; by Messene, 279; over Mt. Taygetus, 279. -to Levetsoba, 271. -to Tripolitza, 266. Spartovuni, 246. Sperchius, river and valley, 218. Spetzia, 299. Spetziots, 106. Sphacteria, Sphagia, 284, 286, 287; scene of Byron’s ‘ Corsair,’ 287. Sphaeria, 301. Sphakia, 351, 371. Sphettian Way, 208. Sphinari, 367. Spbingium, Mt., 231. Sphynx, hill of the, 211. Spilia, 406. Spinalonga, 363. Sponge-fishery, 343. Sporades, 303 ; Northern, 326. Springs :—Delphi, 237. Black, Mavromati, 280. Grease, Zante, 93. Hot: Lutraki, 123 ; Melos, 317, 318; Ther¬ mopylae, 218. Salt, near the Pass of Daphne, 205. Warm, Cythnos, 315. Stadium:—Basilika, 242. De¬ los, 309. Delphi, 237. Hieron, 257. Messene, 281. Nicopolis, 387. Panathenaic, 189. X 458 INDEX. STAG ISLAND. Stag Island, 98. Stagirus, 418. Stagi'is, 408. Stalactites : — Antiparo, 325. Cerigo, 98. Corycian Cave, 239. Crete, 356, 358. Cyth- nos, 315. Mount Hymettus, 208. Stalagmites:—Corycian Cave, 239. Cave near Mount Meli- doni, Crete, 358. Stamata, 209. Stamna, 249. Stanley, Mr. A. P„ 147. Statues :—Fine fragments on the Acropolis of Athens, 148. Sir F. Adam, Corfu, 65. Apollo: Delos, 309 ; Naxos, 323. Athena Polias, 171, 174. Mark Botzaris, Me- solonghi, 234. Ceres, 206, 244. Jupiter, Olympia, 292. Sir T. Maitland, Zante, 94. Minerva, by Phidias, 153, 155, 162. Marshal Schulem- berg, Corfu, 65. Venus, Melos, 318. Stauri, 316. Stauros (Ithaca), 88; (Stry- monic Gulf), 418. Stavri, 269. Stavro, 279. Stavromenos Petros, ruined church of, 190. Stavrorakhi, 371. Steam-packets : — Peninsular and Oriental : Malta by Gibraltar, 4.— British Go¬ vernment : Malta to Greece and the_Ionian Isles,"4, no.— French Government: Malta to Athens, Syra, Smyrna, and Constantinople, 4, no.— Austrian : Trieste to Athens, by the Adriatic and Gulf of Corinth, 4, 109; Trieste to Constantinople, 5 ; Corfu to Athens, 114. -- Athens to Chalcis, in Euboea, no. ----to Marathonisi, 274. -to Nauplia, no, 257, 259, 298. - Cattaro to Trieste, 428; stopping at the prin¬ cipal Dalmatian ports, 402. - Constantinople to Salo- nica, 376, 415, 432. - Syra and Constantinople to Salonica, 428. - Syria to Smyrna, touch¬ ing at Rhodes, 344. Stemnitza, 296. Stenuri, 266. Stenycleros, valley, 282. Stepetzi, 395. Strabo, 200. Strada Bianca, 405. Stratford de Redcliffe.Lord, 341. TEMPE. Strati, village and river, 369. Stratiotiki, 197, 200. Stratis, George, (travelling servant,) 130. Strato, tomb of, 205. Stratus, 246. Strema, in. Strivali. See Stropbades. Strongyle, 322. Strophades, 97. Struga, 431. Strymon, river, 433. Style, Old and New, no. Stylidha, 218, 229. Stylobate, 25. Stymphalus, river, 259; lake, 294. Styx, 294, 295'; the Falls, 296; valley, 242. Sudena, 294. Sudsuro, .river, 363. Suia, 368. SuliCastle, 115, 388; river, 388. Suliotes, 106,390; women, 391. Sulla, 214. Sunium to Athens, 207. Sunset, Byron’s description of an Athenian, 138. Surudji, 379. Swan, Mr., 278. Swine Islands, 68, 69, 115. Sybota Islands, 68, 69, 115. Sycamino, 221. Sykologo, 363. Sylla, 178, 191, 199. ‘Mlacca, 315. syncretism, 359. Synod, Holy, of the Kingdom of Greece, 103 ; of Nauplia, 103. Syra, centre of steam naviga¬ tion in the Le vant, 304, 305; population, 106. Syrbani, 294. Syriani, 203. Syrtzi, 224. T, Taenarian Neptune, 275. -promontory, 23. Taki, Lake, 266. Talandi, 231. Talari, in. Tallow-well of Zante, 93. Tambouria, 243. Tanagra, 211, 221. Tanzimat, 30. Taphos, 73. Taphus, 78, 89. Tarrha, 37s. Tdrves, 364. Tatoe, 204, 223. Taygetus, Mount, 23, 266, 268. Tegea, 264. Tekale, 413. Telebose, 75, 89. Temenia, 369. Tempe, 22, 411, 412. TEMPLES. Temperature, 108. Temple, the most character¬ istic form of Hellenic archi¬ tecture, 27. Temples:— jEsculapius: Athens, 19} ; Cos, 342; Paros, 324; Ti- thorea, 217. Amphiaraus, 221. Amphitrite, 307. Antinous, 263. Apollo: near Athens, 205. Delos, 309. Delphi, 237.— A. -'Egletes, Anaphe, 321. —A. Epicurius, Bassas,288, 291.—A. Hermione, 299.— Leucadian, 80.—A. Sici- nos, 319.—A. Smintheus, Iulis, 313. Artemis Eucleia, 189. Laph- ria, 248. Leros, 340. Mu- nychia, 201. Propylaea, 206. Pihoccfea, 365. Tauropo- lium, 337. Athena Chalinitis, 123. Po¬ lias, 174. Augustus and Rome, 153. Bacchus: Hermione, 299. Naxos, 323. Sicyon, 243. Ceres: Patras, 117. Eleusis, 206, 244. Hermione, 299. Mycalessia, 229. Ceres and Proserpine, 189. Claudius, 433. Diana Agrotera, 190. Ama- ryzia, 226. Hermione, 299. Lapbria, 117. Limnatis, 273. Dictynna, 366. Dioscuri, 147. Hera : Argos, 262. Near the Helicon range, 213. He- rajum, Samos, 338, 339. Hermes, 296. Isis and Serapis, 299. Juno, 262. Jupiter Ainesius, 73. Ar- bios, Crete, 363. Mount Ithome, 281. Nemea, 298. Olympia, 292. Panhelle- nius, 254. Lissos, 368. Minerva: Aigina, 254. Ar- chegetis, 179. Athens, 145- 147. Hermione, 299. Pleu- ron, 245. Telchinia, 224. Nemesis, Rhamnusian, 220. Neptune: Sunium, 208. Ca- lauria, 301. Helice, 240. Hermione, 299. Tiena- rian, 275. Nike Apteros (Victory with¬ out Wings), 148, 151, 133, 156. Olympieum, 190. Pallas, 327. Poseidon : Corinth, 127. Her- mopolis, 307. Serapis, 276. Sunium, 208. \ INDEX. 459 TEMPLES. Temples —continued :— Theseus, 182. Triptolemus, 189. Venus : Argos, 26;. Athens, [ 197, 200. Cythera, 97. Near Daphne, 205. Her- mione, 299. Thermean, 414. Vesta, 299. Virgin (Parthenon). See Acropolis of Athens. Zeus Soter, 201. Ten Saints, mountain, 68; vil¬ lage, 464. Tennent, Sir J. E„ 404. Tenos, peasantry of, 106. Tent, substitute for a, 6. Tepeleni, 496. --to Selinitza and Avlona, 402. Terami, 465. Terpander, birthplace of, 442. Terra Lemnia, 440. Teskere, 7, 8. Tetaz, M„ 172. Tetrastyle, 25. Tetrazi, Mt„ 288. Teumessus, 224. Teuthrone, 274. Thaumaci, 409, 410. Theatres:—Argos, 264. Ba- siliki, 242. Ch®ronea, 214. Pass of Daphne, 245. Dio- nysiac, 148, 192, 201. Dra- misius, 489. Eleusis, 244. Gythium, 274. Hieron, 256. Mantinea, 265. Megalopolis, 289. Melos, 418. Nemea, 298. Nicopolis, 487. (Eniad®, 250. Paleopolis, 274. Pas- saron, 488. Samos, 449. Sparta, 267. Stratus, 246. Suda, 457. Tanagra, 221. Thoricos, 209. Mt. Zygos, 245. Thebae, 410. Thebes, 211; plain, 211. Thebes to Chaleis (Eubcea), 224; by Kokhino and Lukisi, 229. -to Marathona, 210. -to Plataea, 211. Themistocles, 198; his tomb, 201. Then®, 461. Tbeodoraki, 464. Theophanes, birthplace of, 442. Theophrastus, birthplace of, 332 . Theopompus, birthplace of,445. Theriso, 470. Therma. See Salonica. Therm® (Thermopyl®), 218. Thermopyl®, 217. -to Lebadea, 218. - to Zeitun, 218. Thermus, 246. Theseum, 182. Theseus, 149, 140, 151 ; disco¬ very of the bones of, 426. Thespi®, 212. TRAVELLING. Thessaloniea. See Salonica. I Thessaly: — Population, 475 ! plain, 409, 410 ; valley, 22. j -and Macedonia, barrier between, 414. Thiersch’s remarks on the mo¬ dem Greeks, 106. Thoas (Achelous), 90. Thoricos, 209. Thracian Samos, 440. -Sea, 404. Thrasybulus, 200, 204. Three Heads, Pass, 207. Thria, 205. Thriasian Plain, 205, 244. ) Throne of Plutarch, 214. Thucydides, 417, 444. Thuria to Kalamata, 284. Thyamis, river, 69, 481. Thyssus, 419. Tigani, 275. Tilbeli, 429. Timanthes, birthplace of, 448. Time, mode of reckoning, 110. Timotbeus, 252. Tiparenos, 299. Tiryns (Tirynthus), 259. Tithorea, 217. Titles of Honour, 104. Titus, St., 460. Tjames, 49. Tolon, Port, 259. Tombazi, Admiral, 299, 400, 402. Tomb3: — Agamemnon, 261. Aristides, 198. Lucien Bona¬ parte, 286. “The Giant’s,” 464. Herodes Atticus, 190. Leonidas, 267. Menecrates, 66. Minyas, 216. Orpheus, 414. Peleus, 427. Count Santa Rosa, 286. Strato, 205. Themistocles, 201. Tomlinson, Dr., 141. Topography, 22. Topolia, 216, 241. Tortoises, abundance of, 18. Toskes, 49. Tours, skeleton, in. Tower of the Winds, 178. Trachinia, plain of, 218. Trade, roq. Tragamesti, 81, 250, 251; bay, 81. Tragoge, 291. Travelling, interest of Greek, to the politician, 1; to the artist, 1 ; to the classical scholar, 2; mode of, 4; rob¬ bers, 4 ; requisites and hints before starting, 5; climate and seasons for, 9; expenses, 16; small silver pieces the most useful money in the interior, no; servants, 14, 60, in; names of the best, 16, 129, 140; roads, 15; horse-hire, 15 ; boat-hire, 19 ; accommodation, 20 ; pro¬ visions, 20, 21 ; distances, how measured, in. OKQUHART. Treasury of Atreus, 261 ; of Minyas, 216. Trelo-vuno, 204. Trespass, no law of, inGreece, 18 Tretus, 297 ; Pass, 262. Tri, 259. Trianta, 447. Tricala, 409. Tricca, 409. Tricbonis, Lake of, 245. Triglyph, 25. Trikhani, 407. Trikhardho, Trikhardho-kastro, 249. Trinasus, 272, 274. Trinisa, 272, 274. Triopian Promontory, 442. Triple Road, 216. Tripolis, Tripolitza, 264. Tripolitza to Cyparissia, 288. -to Patras, 295. -to Sparta, 266. Tripotamo, 294. Triptolemus, 189. Triremes, width of, 200, Trisonia, 122. Trispyrgi, 197. Trit®a, 295. Triton, river, 462. Troezen, 401. Trogilium, 447. Trophonius, Hieron or Sanc¬ tuary of, 214. Trypa, 490. Trypete, 473 - Trypeti, 418. Tschemi, 499. Tuzla, 456. Tylissos, 460. Tympanum, 25. Typaldo, Dr., 142. Typhlos, river, 465. Tyrana, 441. Tyrrheni Pelasgi, 144. Tzaka, 292. Tzakonia, 47. Tzakonic dialect, 47 ; district where it is still spoken, 268. Tzaliand, 468. Tzanet Bey, of Mavrovuni, 268, 269. Tzanetachi KutupMfl, 268,277. Tzatalze, 409. Tzavellas, 119. Tzerigo, 97. Tzimova, 269, 271, 275. Tzimovites, 270. Tzipiana, 265. Tjr. Ulrichs, 197, 247. Ulysses, 82-87, 2^; Castle, 86; Ship, 67, 68. Universities : — Athens, 142 ; Corfu, 57. Urania, 97. Urquhart, Mr., on the pleasures of Eastern travel, 4 ; on the manufactory at Ampelakia, 412 . 460 INDEX, VA LETS-DE-PLACE. V. Yalets-de-place, 130. Yalleys : — Aetos, 251. Aso- matos, 364. Atzikolo, 289. Dhikova, 275. Gythium, 273. Megalopolis, 289. Olympia, 292. Pisa, 292. Platania, 365. Racli, 72. Roppa, 69. Sparta,. 266. Stenycleros, 282. Styx, 242, 29;. Tempe, 411,412. XerilloPotamo,28o. Valona, 402. Valonia acorn, large exports of, 314- Valto, 246, 247. Vaphib, 271, 272 . Varda Kalerghi, 368. Vardari, river, 413. Varnaka, ridge of, 247. Varnava, Mt„ 220. Vasiliko, 225. Vasilopulo, 251. Vathia, 269. Vathy, 224, 274, 275. Vatika, 98. Vegetable products, 18, 108. Velestias, 410. Velimaki, 294. Velitza, 217. Velutzi, Mt„ 251. Venerate, 361. Venus, 97, 197, 200, 205, 318. Verde antico, place whence the ancients obtained, 411. Verdea (wine), 96. Vermin, protection from, 5. Vesalius, 93. Vetrinitza, 235. Via Egnatia, 398, 428, 433. Via Sacra (Parnassus), 216. Vido, 64, 65. Viena, Mt„ 246. Vilias, 273. Villekardouin, 118, 294. Villiers de l'lsle Adam, 346. Vines of immense size at Pla¬ tania 365. Vino Santo, 320. Viosa, river, 396, 398 ; source, 407. Viscardo, Port, or Cape, 73. Vistritza, river, its source, 407; ferry, 413. Vitylo, 275, 276. - to Platza, 276. Vladika, 401. Vlak, 52. Vlike, 222. Vlithids, 369. -to Ergasteri, 370. Vlokho, 246. Vodhena, 428. Vogdano, 216, 219. Voidbia, Mount, 117, 118. WOMEN. Volo, 410 ; Gulf, 229. Volute, 26. Vomitoria, 26. Vonitza, 247, 251. - to Mesolonghi, by Ka- tuna. Porta, and (Eniadae, 249. Vostitza (A?gium) :—magnifi¬ cent plane-tree, 121 ; cur¬ rant-magazines, 121 ; his¬ torical notice, 122; remains of the ancient iEgium, 122 ; excursion to the convent of Megaspelaeon, 122. Vrakhori, 245. Vrana, 209. Vrukolakos, 320. Vulkaria, Lake of, 247. Vumisto, Mt„ 251. Vuno, 404, 405. Vurkano, 280, 281. Vurko, Bay of, 225. Vurlia, 266. w. Waddington, Mr., 299. Wages of travelling servants, 17 - Wall, the great Northern, men¬ tioned by Herodotus, 218. Walls :—Long, 142, 198. Pha- lerian, 142, 198. Wallachia, Great, 32. Wallachs, 51. War of Independence, reflec¬ tions on, 32; character of the Greeks at its commence¬ ment, 107 ; its horrors, 391. Weights and measures, in. Wells: — Ceres, 118. Pitch, 92. Tallow, 93 . Thrace, 434. White Sea, 303. Wilkinson, Sir Gardner, on “ Dalmatia and Montenegro,” 401. Williams, Mr. H„ 135. Winds, Tower of the, 178. Wines, Greek, 22. Amorgos, 321. Ampelakia, 411. Ana- tolico, 249. Andros, 312. Arachova, 238. Calymna, 341. Ceos, 314. Cephallenia, 73. Chios, 335. Cos, 342. Cythnos, 315. Euboea, 226. Ios, 320. Ipos, 370. Ithaca, 83. Lesbos, 332. Malvasian or Malmsey, Tenos, 311. Mesoghia, 366. Naxos, 322. Nisyros, 343. Paros, 323. Peparethos, 328. Samos, 339. Scyros, 326. Sicinos, 319. Syra, 307. Thera, 320. Verdea, 96. Women of the Islands and of Northern Greece finest, 106 ; THE END. ZYGOVISTI. of Athens, 134; peasant, 68. Costume, 45, 135. Woods, Mr. Joseph, his ‘ Letters of an Architect’ quoted, 181, 182, 185, 191, 201. Wynne, Capt., 228. X. Xenophon, residence of, 291. Xerillo, river, 280, 289; valley, 280. Xerochori, 226, 228. Xerokampo, 246, 271. Xeromero, 247. Xerovalto, 394. Xerxes, “ Seat” of, during the battle of Salamis, 205 ; track of the canal through which his fleets steered, 417, 422. Xyli, Cape, 273. Xyloskalo, 370. Xynara, 311. Y. Yachts, 19. Yenidje, 428, 434. Yfenigik, 434. Z. Zabos, 83. Zacholi, 297. Zacynthus (Zante), outline of its history, 91; Pitch-wells, 92: Tallow-well, or Grease¬ spring, 93 ; cultivation of the currant-vine, 96; fre¬ quency of earthquakes, 93; the Castle-hill, 95; excur¬ sions, 95. Zagora, 212. Zagori, river, 406. Zalongo, 388. Za-lougos, 92. Zante. See Zacynthus. Zapandi, 246. Zaraka, 296. Zarko, 409. Zaruchla, 294. Zaverdha, 252. Zea, 197, 200. Zecchino, no. Zeitun, 218. —— to Thermopylae, 218. Zephyria, 317. Zeus, sceptre of, 213 ; Cappotas, 274; Soter, 201. Zevgalatio, 297. Zia, Mouut, 323. Ziria, Mount, 296. Zitza, 382. Zwanziger, no. Zygos Pass, 52; Mount, 245 ; Lake, 245. Zygovisti, 296. LONDON : PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, AND CHARING CROSS. c ' Clip? Pt'jid 1 ’’ G nir . SJ*n 3 to Illustrate ahobook fop CHIOS SAMOS S AMO) jCAHPATHOS *1SCABPANTO) fob r** ( AkriliX *“ I REA’ RRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 1865. Sf ,, ,, , Medium for Steam, Railway, and other Public Companies, Landlords of Inns, last, and other parts of the world. Annual Circulation, 15,000. Advertisements must he paid in advance and received hy 1 Oth April. INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. 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Pisa— Andreoni, Sculptor . Prague —Hoffman’s Glass factory. Rome— Shea, House Agent . . 13 Fabri, Forwarding Agent . . 24 Rotterdam —Kramers, Bookseller 2b Cary’s Telescope. Chubb's Locks and Safes ... 18 Continental Express Agency . .21 Couriers and Servants . ... oo - English and German ... 62 Manu- Spa—H otel de Flandre . . . 47 sv A —Baker, Chemist itel des Bergues tel Beau Rivage . tel de la Couronne tel de l’Ecu . . . tel de la Metropole is ion Anglaise . . .a— Hotel des Quatre Nations .us, St., Baths ... 68 Thun—H otel de Bellevue • • • 69 Tours— Grand Hotel de Bordeaux 45 Treves— Hotel de la Maison Rouge 47 Turin— Grand Hotel de l’Europe 49 Galignani’s Pails Guide 26 Handbook for London Heal’s Bedsteads . . Ireland — Antrim Arms Hotel, Portrush.5* 72 Lee and Carter’s Guide Depot. Letts’ Maps for Tourists . . . zo Locock’s Pulmonic Wafers ... 19 London and Westminster Bank . 22 London, Chatham, and Dover Rail- way.37 Maynard and Co., Outfitters Measom’s Guide-Books . Mudie’s Library .... Venice—R ietti’s Antiquities . • 12 Vevay— Hotel Monnet Vichy —Grand Hotel du Parc . • 42 Vienna —Lobmeyr’s Glass Manu¬ factory. Grand Hotel National • • • *» Ullrich’s Glass Warehouse . .11 Wiesbaden— Hotel d’Angleterre . 40 Wildbad— Hotel Klumpp ... 47 ELBERG —Court of Baden Hotel 44 tel Victoria. 28 rlaken—H otel Belvedere tier’s Carvings .... ANNE —Hotel Gibbon . lame du Gue’s Pension ision d’Etrangers . Zurich— Hotel Bellevue ENGLAND. Agents—M'Cracken --- Olivier and Carr -Catchpool . Annual Register . Athenaeum . . . . 2-5 16, 17 . 58 . 64 . 51 North British Insurance Parr’s Life Pills .... Passport Agency—Adams . Passport Agency—Dorrell . Passport Agency—Letts Passport Agency—Stanford Portmanteaus—Allen’s . . Portmanteaus—Smith’s Public Schools Calendar . 30 38, 39 Rowland’s Perfumery Salom’s Opera and Field Glass . 55 South-Eastern Railway .... 32 South-Western Railway ... 51* Spiers’ Ornamental Manufactures, Oxford.26 Student’s Manuals.65 Swiss Couriers’ Society .... 60 Tennant, Geologist.55 Thorley’s Compound . . . . 1(» Thre sher’s Essentials for Travelling 22 APPEAL TO TRAVELLERS BY THE COMMITTEE OF COUNCIL ON EDUCATION. See pp. 70 and_ 71 . ^ i 2 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. NEW BRITISH TARIFF, 1865. \ London, May 1, 1865. MESSRS. J. & R. M C CRACKEN, 38, QUEEN STREET, CANNON STREET WEST, E.C. AGENTS, BY APPOINTMENT, TO THE ROYAL ACADEMY, NATIONAL GALLERY, AND GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENT OF SCIENCE AND ART, GENERAL AND FOREIGN AGENTS, WINE MERCHANTS, agents generally for the reception and shipment of works of ART, BAGGAGE, &C., FROM AND TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD, Avail themselves of this opportunity to return their sincere thanks to the Nobility and Gentry for the patronage hitherto conferred on them, and hope to be honoured with a continuance of their favours. Their charges are framed with a due regard to economy, and the same care and attention will be bestowed as heretofore upon all packages passing through their hands. J. and R. M c C. have the advantage of 9 DRY AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES, Where Works of Art and all descriptions of Property can be kept during the Owners’ absence, at most moderate rates of rent. Parties favouring J. and R. M C C. with their Consignments are requested to be particular in having the Bills of Lading sent to them direct by Post, and also to forward their Keys with the Packages, as, although the contents may be free of Duty, all Packages are still examined by the Customs immediately on arrival. Packages sent by Steamers or otherwise to Southampton and Liverpool also attended to; but all Letters of Advice and Bills of Lading to bej addressed to 38, Queen Street, as above. MESSRS. J. AND R. MCCRACKEN ARE THE APPOINTED AGENTS IN ENGLAND OF MR. J. M. FARINA, GeGENUBER DEM JULICHS PLATZ, COLOGNE, FOR HIS CELEBRATED EAU DEICOLOGNE. 1865.] MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 71 SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM — continued. II. The objects of Decorative Art especially referred to are:— a. Ornamental Sculpture in Marble, Stone, or Wood. b. Wall Decorations in Painting, Mosaic, &c. c. Hammered and Chased Metal-work. d. Ornamental Pavements in Mosaic, Encaustic Tiles, &c. e. Examples of Stained Glass. ' III. It is desirable that the objects should be the finest specimens of their class, complete in themselves, and not too large for exhibition; and, by way of illustration, it may be stated that casts have been obtained of Archbishop Grey’s Tomb from York Cathedral, the Priors’ Gateway in the Cloisters of Norwich Cathedral, the Singing Gallery in Exeter Cathedral, the Pulpit of Giovanni Pisano from the Baptistery at Pisa, the Ghiberti Bronze Gates at Florence, and the like. IV. The finest typical works in Staiued Glass and Mosaics might possibly be reproduced in materials like the original, and the same observation applies to Hammered Iron-work. Other reproductions may be obtained by means of Casting, Electrotyping, and large copies by Painting and otherwise. V. In respect to objects of Northern Mediaeval and Renaissance Art, in which the varieties of style are very numerous, it would be desirable to form in the first instance a list of a few of the finest examples which illustrate each epoch of the Art and each class of Art. And in the formation of such a list, the experience of the different Architectural Societies and Architects would be of the highest utility. VI. Besides making a collection of such reproductions as proposed, to be exhibited in the Museum, My Lords will cause to be compiled general Art Inventories, briefly naming the most remarkable objects which are known to exist, and showing the locality and site where they may be seen and studied. Photographs may be added occasionally to illustrate these inven¬ tories. VII. These inventories will be kept in type to admit of revisions and additions, and only a few copies will be printed from time to time. Copies will be sent to the Architectural Societies, and to any Architects who may apply, and be willing to contribute notices in aid of their completion. By order of the Lords of the Committee of Council on Education. HENRY COLE, Secretary. 72 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May. 1865. pi lo Di Pa to ; St: AR] THE ORIGINAL PASSPORT AGENCY. LEE’S POLYGLOT WASHING BOOKS, (To save the trouble of translating Washing Bills). For Ladies or Gentlemen. English 4c French. English 4c German. English 4c Italian. English 4c Spanish. English itiuu^ 0 , Nathan Davis. Illustrations. 8vo. 16*. ALBANIA and other Provinces of Turkey. By Lord Broughton. Il¬ lustrations. 2 Vols. Svo. 30*. ALPS (THE). A Tour through Northern Piedmont, from the Tareutaise to the Cries. By Rev. S. W. Kino. Illus¬ trations. Crown Svo. IS*. ETRURIA: its Cities and Cemeteries. By George Denis. Plates. 2 Vols. gvo. 42*. GREECE : Pictorial, Descriptive, and Historical. By Rev. Dr. IVorus- Worth. Illustrations. Royal Svo. »S*. ICELAND : IT3 Volcanoes, Gevsep.s, and Glaciers. By C. S. Forbes, R.N. Illustratious. Post Svo. 14*. ICELAND : Jan Mates and Sfitzber- oes, during a Yacht Voyage m 1856. By Lord Dufferin. Illustrations. Crown 8 vo. 9*. ITALY. By George Hillard. 2 Vols. Post Svo. 1C*. a t.PS (THE). Excursions and Ascents; ■with an account of the Oiigin and Phenomena of Glaeicrs. By John Tvndall, F.R.S. Illustrations. Tost 8vo. 14*. ITALY: duriDg several Visits, between 1S16 and 1854. By Lord Broughton. 2 Vols. PostSvo. IS*. A MANUALof SCIENTIFIC ENQUIRY, prepared for the Use of Travellers. Edited by Hersctiel and Main. Maps, <5ic. PostSvo. 9*. AM A ZONS(THE RIVER) during Eleven Years of Travel and Adventures. By H. W. Bates. Illustrations. Post Svo. 12*. ARMENIA, ERZEROOM, AND THE Frontiers of Russia, Turkey, and Persia. By Hon. K. Curzon. Wood- cuts. Post Svo. 7*. Cd. ITALY: THE BRICK AND MARBnE ARCHITECTURE OF. By G. It. Street, F.S.A. Illustrations. Svo. 21*. I ART OF TRAVEL; or, Siufts and Con¬ trivances available in Mild Countries. By Francis Galton. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7*. 6tL ATHENS AND ATTICA: Notes of a Tour. By Rev. Dr. Wordsworth. Woodcuts. Crown Svo. S«. 6 the Ruins of Assyria. By A. II. Layard. Illustrations. S\ols. Svo. PALESTINE. A Journal of Travels in 1S52. By Rev. E. Robinson, U.D. Map. 8vo. PERU AND INDIA: Travels for the pur¬ pose o f collec ting Ciucl 1 ona Plants.and introducing Bart into I ndia. j^y C * ft. Markham. Illustrations. 8vo. 16*. ROME: described in Letters to Friends in England. By Rev. J. W. Bcr.aos. lllustiatious. PostSvo. 12*. SINAI AND PALESTINE: in Connec¬ tion with their History. By Canon Stanley. Plans. Svo. 16*. SWEDEN, including a Visit to the Isle of Gotland. By Horace Maruyat. Illustrations. 2 Vols. Svo. 23*. TARTAR STEPPES AND THEIR IN¬ HABITANTS. By Mrs. Atkinson. Illustrations. Post 8vo. 12*. Jnly, 1864. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.