35. Koiilcvard CapucincH. 39 . 
 
 PARIS. 
 
 fLAIN AND FIGURED SILKS. 
 
 IV»IA A!V» FRif:i^cn CACHESIIRES. 
 
 black and AVHITE LACE. 
 
 mantles, visites, sorties de bal. 
 
 DRESSES AND COURT DRESSES. 
 
 Wedding Oullits 
 
 FANCY GOODS AND GRANDES NOUVEAUTES. 
 
 extensive in Europe; the ^ ^losl 
 
 comprise upwards of thirty saloons or cilleries ‘■‘‘y 
 
 separate entrances, Reip« their own ^ 
 
 Productions are not liaije "rihe 
 
 account of intermediate agents anri ii * .‘'/^'fecs made on 
 
 fo„l ,0 offer lo “fp.ff“liro,u™s 
 
 Ilian any other house. Every article 
 
 marked in plain figures. ^ ^ Cachcmii es, is 
 
 fluffs Cacheroiri": an,l U™;‘lll,{ m!° . 
 
 sale in any country whatever. ^ ■'^uccxrsale for 
 
will be exchanged or retaken, if required. 
 
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 M 6 EHY CBm 
 LIBRARY 
 
 AU BON DXARGH^;, 
 
VICBT. 
 
 THERMAL ESTABLISHMENT. 
 
 CENTRAL OFFICES 
 
 B»UB^EVAR» IBO.^TMAKTRE, PARIS, 
 
 ^VHERE ALL INFORMATIOM MAY BE OBTAINED. 
 
 The Thermal Establishment is open for patients 
 throughout the year, but the fashionable season lasts 
 from the 15lh May to the 1st October, during which 
 period the EMPEROR usually visits Vichy. BALLS, 
 Concerts, Operatic and Theatrical performances 
 then take place daily in the elegant Casino. 
 
 For persons unable to visit Vichy the treatment may 
 be also carried on at home by means of the Bottled 
 ^^aters and Baths composed of Salts extracted from the 
 Springs ; to be had as follows : — 
 
 Paris : Central Offices, as above. 
 
 London: 27, Margaret street, Cavendish square. 
 Liverpool : Smith and Co., 11, Lord-street. 
 Manchester : Smith and Co.. 27, Market-street. 
 Dublin: Thwaites and Co., 37, Upper Sackville-street. 
 New Yobk : Fougera, 30, North William-streel. 
 Chicago: Muller, 130, YVells-strect. 
 
 Gibraltab : Roberts. — E. Bonnet. 
 
 Calcutta: New Medical Hall. 
 
 And of all resiieclahle druggists. 
 
 A Branch of the LYONS Railayay runs direct to 
 Vichy ; Visitors will find accommodation in eighty 
 Public and one hundred and fifty Private Hotels. 
 
PERIIIANENT EXHIBITION. 
 
 i3, BOULEVABD DES CAPUCINES, 43. 
 
 MAISON ALPH. GIROUX 
 
 SUCCESSORS ^ 
 
 DUVIlVAGB A\I> irARIPVKOUCK. 
 
 Paironized by their Majestm the Emperor and Empress 
 and by xeveral Foreign Courts. ’ 
 
 A in s. 
 
 l A.VCY AKTICLES. 
 
 ai’.iosniEs. 
 
 imOAZES. 
 
 FINE STATIONERY. 
 
 frames. 
 
 ME DA I. LIONS. 
 COLOURS. 
 
 DRESSINC CASES. 
 CABINET WORK. 
 FURiMiL'RE. 
 LEATHER AR'IICLES. 
 
 ■SALE AND HIRE OF PAINTINGS, WATER COLOURS AM) 
 DRAAVINGS by the BEST MODERN MASTERS. 
 Speciality for Articles for New Year s Gifts, V\'eddin-^ Fete 
 and Christening Presents. ’ ’ 
 
 Rich Corheilles, Livres d’heures, Fans, Purses, Keepsakes, 
 Smelling Bottles, ( ard Cases, etc. 
 CHILDREN’S TOYS. 
 
 18 and 20, RUE vivienne, paris. 
 
 REQUILLART, ROUSSEL and CIIOCQUEEL, 
 
 CARPETS AND TAPESTRY 
 
 Stuffs for Hangings and Furniture. 
 
 Manufactories at Tourcotng (Nord) and Aubusson {Ctcusc), 
 
 This is one of the most important houses in Paris and is dis- 
 tinguished for the ricliness of its productions, their great 
 variety, and the moderation of their prices. 
 
 Extract horn “ The Reports of the Juries ” of the Universal 
 London Lxhihition in 1851 : 
 
 “ One of the fcalures of tiie exliihilion is the progress made in 
 the manulaclure of Moquette and velvet-pile carpets. 
 
 Cliocm'iefU^of 'p?'® hy Messrs. Requillart, Roussel and 
 
 Chocqucel of Pans and Tourcoing (Nord) are pre-emineni for 
 tlieir artistic designs and beauty of colouring.” 
 
 WHOLESALE AND RETAIL. 
 
ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 WITH CONVEYANCES TO THEM. 
 
 PLACES. 
 Arcueil. . . 
 
 Page. 
 
 495 
 
 Argenteuil. . 
 
 495 
 
 Arnouville. . 
 
 496 
 
 Auteuil. . . 
 
 189 
 
 Beauvais . . 
 
 496 
 
 Belleville . . 
 
 452 
 
 Bellevue . . 
 
 496 
 
 Buc. . . . 
 
 498 
 
 Chantilly . . 
 
 498 
 
 Charenton. . 
 
 500 
 
 Chartres . . 
 
 500 
 
 Chatenay . . 
 
 502 
 
 Choisy-le-Roi 
 
 502 
 
 Compiegne. . 
 
 502 
 
 Corbeil. . . 
 
 507 
 
 Enghien . . 
 
 508 
 
 Ermenonville 
 
 508 
 
 Fontainbleau. 
 
 508 
 
 Crenelle . . 
 
 448 
 
 Maison Laffite 
 
 519 
 
 MaisonsAlfort 
 
 495 
 
 Marly . . . 
 
 520 
 
 Meudon . . 
 
 520 
 
 Montmorency 
 
 522 
 
 Mortefontaine 
 
 522 
 
 Nanterre . . 
 
 522 
 
 Neuilly. . . 
 
 523 
 
 Passy . . . 
 
 489 
 
 Pofssy . . . 
 
 524 
 
 Pr 6 S. Gervais 
 
 524 
 
 Rainey. . . 
 
 524 
 
 Rambouillet . 
 
 525 
 
 Romainville . 
 
 529 
 
 Rueil . . . 
 
 529 
 
 St. Cloud . . 
 
 529 
 
 St. Cyr. . , 
 
 536 
 
 St. Denis . . 
 
 536 
 
 St. Germain . 
 
 543 
 
 St. Leu. . . 
 
 547 
 
 St. Maur . . 
 
 524 
 
 St. Ouea . . 
 
 547 
 
 Sceaux. . . 
 
 547 
 
 Sevres . . . 
 
 548 
 
 Versailles. . 
 
 552 
 
 Vesinet . . 
 
 546 
 
 Vincenaes. . 
 
 580 
 
 ' CONVEYANCES. 
 
 Rue Christine, No. A . — Sceaux Railroad. 
 Railroad, r. St. Lazare, 124. 
 
 Rue d’Enghien, 2. 
 
 Rue duBouloi, 24 . — Railroad, r. St. Lazare. 
 Northern Railroad. 
 
 Rue Catinat — Place Dauphine, Omnibus. 
 Railroad, Boul. Mont-Parnasse. 
 
 Versailles Railroad, left bank. 
 
 Northern Railroad. 
 
 Corner Place du Palais Royal. Lyons Railway. 
 Railroads, Boul. Mont-Parnasse & Rue St. 
 16, Passage Dauphine. [Lazare. 
 
 Railroad, Boul. de I’Hopital. 
 
 Northern Railroad. 
 
 Lyons Railroad. 
 
 Northern Railroad. 
 
 Northern Railroad. 
 
 Lyons Railroad. 
 
 Place du Palais Royal, Omnibus. 
 
 Railroad, rue St. Lazare. 
 
 Place de la Bastille.— Lyons Railroad. 
 
 Rue du Bouloi, 24 . 
 
 Railroad, Boul. Mont-Parnasse. 
 
 Rue d’Enghien, 2— Northern Railroad. 
 Northern Railroad. 
 
 Railroad, rue St. Lazare. 
 
 Rue du Louvre, Omnibus. 
 
 Place du Palais Royal. — Place de la Con- 
 Railroad, rue St. Lazare, 124. [corde. 
 
 Rue Catinat, Omnibus. 
 
 Strasburg Railroad, Bondy Station. 
 
 Railroad, Boul. Mont-Parnasse. 
 
 Rue Catinat, Omnibus. 
 
 Railroad, rue St. Lazare. 
 
 Rue du Bouloi, 24.— Rail. r. St. Lazare, 124 . 
 Railroad, Boul. Mont-Parnasse. 
 
 Rue d’Enghien, 2.— Northern Railroad. 
 
 Rue du Bouloi, 24.— Railroad, rue St. Lazare. 
 Northern Railroad. [tiers. 
 
 Place de la Bastille — Square des Arts et M6- 
 Place du Palais Royal, Omnibus. [d’Enfer. 
 Passage Dauphine, 16.— Railroad, BarriSre 
 Railroad, rues. Lazare— Railroad, left bank. 
 Railroad, rues. Lazare— Railroad, left bank. 
 Railroad, rue S. Lazare. 
 
 PI. de la Bastille — Square des Arts et Metiers 
 
Economy of Time and Money. 
 
 aALlDNANl’S MESSENGER. 
 
 Published in Paris, Rue de Rivoli, No. 224. 
 
 Two Editions of this universally known journal are pub- 
 lished every day, one at six in the morning for Paris and its 
 Environs ; the other at four in the afternoon in time for Post, 
 and containing all the news received dawn to the latest mo - 
 ment of going to press, thus anticipating the morning papers 
 hy 24 hours. 
 
 Galignani’s Messenger offers an immense advantage of 
 economy both in Time and Money — Time, as in a single jour- 
 nal it reproduces the Leaders and Intelligence given by the 
 London daily and weekly newspapers, with their various 
 shades of opinion, thus replacing and bringing before the 
 reader at one view the contents of all — and Money, as the 
 subscription is less than to any of the daily London Papers. 
 — The principle of Galignani’s Messenger, to the scrupulous 
 observance of which it owes much of its reputation, is inflex- 
 ible impartiality. — One department of this journal is devoted 
 to intelligence from England, the other to occurrences in France 
 and all news reaching Paris earlier than London. — The former 
 contains, besides the opinions of the London journals, full 
 Reports of the Parliamentary Debates, and Law Courts, 
 Commercial, Naval, Military, University, and Clerical Intelli- 
 gence, Stocks, Bankrupts, Births, Marriages and Deaths, 
 Fashionable News, Theatricals, etc., etc. — The latter Depart- 
 ment comprises the earliest information from France, Italy, 
 Spain, Germany, Russia, and every other part of the Con- 
 tinent ; Analyses of tlie opinions of the Paris Political Press ; 
 the Proceedings of the Legislative Bodies ; Political, Judicial, 
 Theatrical, and Fashionable Occurrences, etc. 
 
 Terms of Subscription. — A single Journal, lo sous ; a 
 week, 3 fr.; a fortnight, ofr., one month, 10 fr.; three months, 
 28 fr. To receive it fi'ee of postage tliroughout France and Fo- 
 reign Countries, see tariff. — ADVERTISEMENTS RECEIVED. 
 
(&aaa(Bi!5iiiaa*s 
 
 NEW PARIS GUIDE, 
 
 Wov MS&9, 
 
 REVISED AND VERIFIED BY PERSONAL INSPECTION, 
 
 AND 
 
 ARRANGED ON AN ENTIRELY NEW PLAN. 
 COHTEITTS. 
 
 Preface. — (Important to the Stranger.) 
 
 Part I . — General Information, Advice to Travellers, Comparative 
 Tables of French and English Weights and Measures, Money, Ther- 
 mometrical Scales, etc.; Tables of French and English Duties ; 
 Physical and Social Statistics ; Laws affecting Foreigners ; Histori- 
 cal Notice of Paris; its new Division, Government and Public 
 Institutions. 
 
 Part II . — Description of Paris by Walks ; Edifices, Curiosities, etc. 
 Part III . — Places of Public Amusement. 
 
 Part IV . — Environs of Paris. 
 
 Party. — Paris Directory; Addresses of Ambassadors, etc., List of 
 Bankers, Tradesmen, etc.; List of Streets; Index. 
 
 (BntertJi' at SfatiDners’ 
 
 Therighl of republication (or translation) is reserved by the Proprietors. 
 
 
 
 A. AND W. GALIGNANI AND G». 
 
 SIMPKIN, MARSHALL and Co.; 
 
 AND SOLD ALSO BY 
 
 G. F. CROGHLEY, 8 1 , FLEET-STREET, AND J. LEE, 440, STRAND . 
 
ii PREFACE. 
 
 upon the present work will suffice 1o show that it aims at a 
 higher distinction than its luimlde title, in the common accept- 
 ance of the term, denotes, and that it is m reality a condensed 
 repertory of the history, statistics, and art of the capital of 
 France, far superior, therefore, to all the other French and 
 English Guides in existence, which are quite unworthy 
 of the matter they treat of. In the present book there 
 will be found collected an immense quantity of valuable and 
 interesting information, books of the first authority having 
 been consulted on the history and antiquities of Paris ; while 
 personal observation has supplied with great accuracy the ac- 
 count of all that now meets the eye in the metropolis. In the 
 collection of this information, and in the annual correction 
 of tlie work, neither time nor expense has been spared, and, by 
 availing themselves of the valuable services of Mr. Outhwaite, 
 the engraver, the publishers have been enabled to embellish 
 the work with accurate and well-designed plates. 
 
 The plan adopted in this volume is calculated to save the 
 visitor much useless expenditure of time and exertion. What- 
 ever relates to the institutions and general statistics of Paris 
 has been put into the First Part, entitled General Information; 
 while every other object of interest is described in twenty 
 walks, which, while equal in number to \\iearro7idissempnls 
 or municipal sections of Paris, are nevertheless arranged ir- 
 respectively of those divisions, which would be inconvenient 
 for the purpose of visiting the capital . The stranger, after study- 
 ing his map of Paris with care, is supposed to go through 
 these walks, inspecting their contents in the order in 
 which they are arranged in this work, or omitting some, 
 according to his taste and inclination. By so doing he 
 will see every thing in a comparatively short space of time, 
 and will pass over nothing that is really worthy of being ex- 
 amined by the tourist. By a reference to the Index, where 
 everything is carefully classified, the reader may see, at one 
 glance, the whole of any particular class of things of which 
 he may be in search. 
 
 The Publishers trust that the conscientious care which has 
 guided them in the publication of this volume will obtain the 
 approbation of the visitor. Any correction which may suggest 
 itself to the reader will be gladly received. 
 
 Paris is one of the great centres not only of French but of 
 continental intellect ; from its prolific press the most valuable 
 publications are constantly issuing ; it takes the lead in scien- 
 tific research and discovery, and has every claim to be con- 
 sidered a magnificent and wonderful city. Its superb and 
 
PREFACE. iii 
 
 beautiful collections of ancient and modern art are, witli an ad- 
 mirable spirit of generous liberality, thrown gratuitously open 
 not only to natives, but particularly and at all seasons to fo- 
 reigners. In every branch of knowledge lectures are delivered 
 gratis by the most eminent professors, and the traveller who 
 has paid the least attention to the fine arts becomes, on arriv- 
 ing in Paris, in some measure identified with them ; even the 
 public amusements of the capital tend to the improvement Of 
 the mind, and the advancement of civilization. 
 
 The metropolis is naturally salubrious, and the purity of its 
 atmosphere may be at once ascertained by viewing it from an 
 elevated situation. How unlike the view from the top of St. 
 Paul’s in London, with its canopy of fogs and clouds, and its 
 sickly sunbeams ! There, every building is blackened with 
 smoke, and the eye looks down upon darkening vapours and 
 mists ; but if Paris be seen from the towers of Notre Dame, the 
 Pantheon, the Arc de Triomphe de I’fitoile, the heights of 
 Montmartre, or the cemetery of Pere La Chaise, the panorama 
 is complete; there is no indistinctness or confusion in the pro- 
 spect ; every palace, church, and public edifice stands distinctly 
 before the eye, and, interspersed with the foliage of the gardens 
 and the boulevards, the whole forms a prospect at once grand 
 and beautiful. It need hardly be added that this lively me- 
 tropolis is the most attractive emporium of pleasure and litera- 
 ture in the world, and, at the same time, the cheapest for the 
 advantages it presents— circumstances which render it the ge- 
 neral rendezvous for all the nations of the globe. ® 
 
 In order fully to appreciate the treasures of art and industry 
 for which this capital is so renowned, a residence of several 
 months will hardly suffice. But, as many persons visit Paris 
 for only a few days, and are therefore only able to take a 
 bird s-eye view of the remarkable sights it contains the fol- 
 lowing list of important places, arranged by days on which 
 they can be visited, and with reference to the page of the 
 Guide at which they are described, cannot fail to he acceptable 
 
 DI4RV OF PLACES THAI ODCHI TO BE SEEH BY A SIBASOEI 
 
 SUNDAY.— The Louvre and all its Museums, from lo to 
 Tuilerie.s, (p. i44; ticket).— Triumph; 
 Arch of the Carrousel (p. 154).— Column of the Place Vendom 
 
 (P- ‘79).-Ghamps Elys^( 
 fn ofj^lysee-Napol(5^ (p. 196).-Triumphal Arc 
 
 n Ferdinand, from lo to 
 
 L MaicleiniTp ^ Eipialoirc (p. ,02 ; (cc).-ci.urcl. 
 
 
V PREFACE. 
 
 MONDAY. — Hotel des Invalides, (fee), and Tomb of Napo- 
 leon from 12 to 3 (p. 330 ).— Church of St. Sulpice (p. 37o) 
 
 Church of SI. Germain des Pr(5s (p. 335).— Ecole des beaux 
 
 Arts {p. 363 ; fee). — Palais de Juslice andSainte Ghapelle, from 
 10 to 4 (p.298, 304 ; ticket).— Cathedralof Notre Dame (p. 309 ; fee). 
 
 TUESDAY.— Artesian Well of Greneile (p. 334).— Palace of tlie 
 Legislative Body (p. 324, fee).— Palais du Quai d’Orsay, from 9 
 to 11 (p 322 , fee).— The Mint, Museum, 12 to 3 (public), coining, 
 12 to 3 {p. 33 9, ticket).- Church of Notre Damede Lorette (p. 2i 6). 
 
 WEDNESDAY.— Palace of the Luxembourg, picture-gallery, 
 from 10 to 4 (p. 374 ). — Hotel de Cluny, from ii to 4 (p. 383).— 
 Pantheon (p. 40o, fee).— Cluirch of St. Etienne du Mont (p. 40s). 
 
 THURSDAY.— Manufacture des Tabacs, from lo to 4, (p. 
 331; card).- Mus(5e d’Artillerie, from 12 lo 4 (p. 332).— Il&tel 
 de Ville, from 12 to 4 (p. 284 ; ticket).— Imprimerie Imperiale, 
 at 2 , with ticket (p.2G0). — Conservatoire des Arls etMeticrs, from 
 10 to 4 (p. 256 ).— Northern Railway Terminus (p. 235). - Church 
 of St. Vincent de Paule (p. 234). 
 
 FRIDAY. -Louvre (p. 158 .)— Garden of Palais Royal (p. 208,) 
 — Bibliothi!c[ue Imperiale, from 10 to 4 (p. 221).— Exchange (p. 
 219 ). —Abattoir de Popincourt (p. 276 , fee). 
 
 SATURDAY.— Garden of Plants ; Museums open from 1 1 to 2 
 (p. 427 ).— Gobelins Manufactory, from 2 to 4 ;p. 4i 1 ; ticket).— 
 Place (lu Tronc (p. 278 ).— Column of July 'p. 282; fee).- Ceme- 
 tery ofPtlre Laciiaise (p. 433). 
 
 EXCURSIONS.- Fontainebleau, one day (p. 508 ; fee). — Ram- 
 bouillet, one day (p. 523 ; ticket).— Sevres Manufactory (ticket), 
 and St. Cloud, one day (pp. 548 and 529 ; fees).— Abbey of St. 
 Denis, one day (p. 536 ; fee). -Versailles, daily, Mondays ex- 
 cepted; see preface, p. viii. and p. 552 .— Vincennes, Saturdays 
 (p. 58o\ ticket). Bois de Boulogne, afternoon; Viaduct and 
 bridge of the Chemin de fer de Ceinture at Auteuil (p. 190 .)— 
 Parc de Chaumont (see p. 4 5 i) —Park of Monceaux (see p. 204). 
 See also preftce, pige ix. 
 
 The stranger will do well, immediately on his arrival, to 
 write for permission to see the following places ; viz., the 
 Hotel de Ville, to M. le Prefet de la Seine, Hotel de Ville. — 
 The Palaces of the Tiiileries, St. Cloud, and Petit Trianon, to 
 M. le General Rolin, Adjudant-general du Palais des Tuile- 
 ries • the Palace of Raraltouillet and the Sainte Ghapelle, to 
 M. le Ministre de la Maison di I’Empereur. — The Musee de 
 Sevres, specially mentioning also the workshops or les 
 ateliers, (seep. 548), the exhibition-rooms being open daily 
 Avithout’ tickets (Sundays and holidays excepted), to M. I’Ad- 
 ministrateur de la Manufacture de Sevres — The Mint, o 
 see the coining, (the Museum, &cc., being public on certain 
 days see p. 859), to M. le President de la Commission des 
 Monnaies et Medailles, II Mel des d/onnaie,8.— The Observa- 
 tory (visible once a month), to M. le Direct eur de VObs -r a- 
 
PREFACE. V 
 
 toire. — Vincennes, mentioning the Armoury, to M. le Ui- 
 nistre cle la Guerre . — These letters must he sent franked by 
 post : the tickets will be received in two or three days. The 
 following is the usual form of the letter to he written : — 
 
 Monsieur {giving his title, &c.), 
 
 J’ai ITionneur de vous prier [if to a Minister: de prier voire 
 Excellence) de vouloir bien me faire adresser un billet pour 
 {name number of persons), afin de visiter (iriscrf nan^e of places). 
 N’ayant que peu de jours a rester a Paris, it me serait trts- 
 a^reable de le poss^der aussit&t que possible. 
 
 Veuillez recevoir, avec mes remerciments, I’assurance de la 
 haute considdration avec laquelle j’ai Phonneur d’etre. Monsieur, 
 
 Votre trfes humble serviteur, 
 
 {Sign name with address, very clearly written. 
 
 Should the stranger, as is sometimes the case in consequence 
 of the negligence of some inferior functionary, not receive a 
 speedy reply to his letter, he will do well to call for it in per* 
 son at the proper office. Leave is rarely granted to visit the 
 prisons, hut hospitals and other charitable institutions are 
 thrown open, not only for the inspection of professional men, 
 hut also for the relief of the necessitous stranger, with a libe- 
 rality that cannot be too highly commended. 
 
 The visitor is strongly recommended, as a general refereiue, 
 to consult the article headed Stranger’s Diary, in the daily 
 English newspaper, Galignani’s Messenger, which is taken in 
 at all the principal cafes, restaurants, &c., or may be sub- 
 scribed for by the day, week, fortnight, or month, and where 
 whatever is to be seen on the day of publication is always 
 mentioned, with all necessary- information concerning it. 
 
 The stranger in Paris is also advised to attend high mass at 
 the cathedral of Notre Dame, or at the churches of St. Boch, 
 St. Eustache, or Notre Dame de Lorette. at 10 any Sunday 
 morning, if he would witness an imposing spectacle, and be 
 gratified with excellent music. 
 
 In consequence of the frequent errors which occur in the de- 
 livery of journals casually sent from Paris to England, it should 
 be knowm that Newspapers must be surrounded by a band of 
 paper on which the address is written, and prepaid at the 
 principal post offices, at the rate of 8 centimes for each 4 0 
 grammes weight. If thrown in without being franked, they 
 would he charged like letters according to weight. 
 
 The stranger, on arriving in Paris, is often at a loss to 
 choose among the good things presented to his taste by the 
 mrtes of the restaurants, some of which contain three to four 
 
vi PREFACE. 
 
 hundred dishes. The following list of some of the best will 
 no doubt be well received by the gastronomic traveller : — 
 
 SOUPS (Pot age}. 
 
 A la bisque. — A la julienne. — Au macaroni. — Au riz. — A la 
 pur^e.— Purde aux croutons. 
 
 MEATS (Viande). 
 
 Beefsteak au beurre d’anchois. — Filet de boeuf, au vin de Ma- 
 dfere. — Fricandeau, sauce tomate. — Ris de veau pique a la finan- 
 cifere. — Ris de veau A la poulette. — Tfite de veau en niatelotle. 
 — T6te de veau en tortue. — Cotelette de mouton a la Soubise. 
 — Cotelette de mouton sautee aux Iruffes. — Filet mignon. — 
 RognonS; au vin de Champagne. 
 
 POULTRY (VOEAILLE). 
 
 Poulet A la Marengo. — Poulet en fricassee. — Poulet A la tar- 
 tare. — Poulet en Mayonnaise. — Poulet saut6 aux champignons. 
 — Supreme de volaille. — Coquille A la financiAre. — Croquettes de 
 volaille. — Salade de volaille A la Mayonnaise. — Ragout A la fl- 
 nanciAre. — Foie gras en caisse. 
 
 GAME (Gibier). 
 
 Perdreau en salmis aux truffes. — Perdreau roli. — Caille A la 
 financiAre. — Caille rotie. 
 
 PASTRY (Patisserie). 
 
 Vol-au-vent A la financiAre. — Vol-au-vent de ris de veau 
 aux truffes. — Vol-au-vent de turbot A la bechamellc. — Vol-au- 
 vent de filet de volaille aux truffes. — PAt6 de foie gras. 
 
 FISH (Poisson). 
 
 Turbot, sauce aux huitres. — Turbot, sauce aux capres. — Sau- 
 mon, sauce aux capres. — Saumon A la Genevoise. — Truite en 
 Mayonnaise. — Eperlan au gratin.— Eperlan frit. — Sole au gra- 
 tin.— Sole A la Normande.— Filet de Sole A la maitre d’hotel. 
 — Matelotte de carpe et d’anguille. — Anguille A la tartare. — B6- 
 chamelle de poisson. — Ecrevisses A la Bordelaise. 
 
 SIDE-DISHES (Entrem^its). 
 
 Coquille aux champignons. — Macaroni au gratin. — Choux- 
 fleurs au Parmesan. — Omelette aux fines herbes. — Artichauts 
 A la barigoule. — Artichauts frits. 
 
 SWEET DITTO (ENTREM^:TS At Sucre). 
 
 Beignets de pomme. — Beignets d’abricots.— Omelette souftlee. 
 Omelette aux confitures. — Charlotte de pomme. — Charlotte aux 
 confitures.— Charlotte russe.— Charlotte aux fraises.— Croquettes 
 de riz. — Abricots A la Cond^. — Croutes au MadAre. — Meringue 
 aux confitures. — Meringue glacAe. 
 
 WINES (VlNs). 
 
 Red. Burgundy. — Beaune. — Poniard. — Nuits. — Volnay. — 
 Chambertin. — Romance. — Hermitage.— Cote-Rotie. —C/areC— 
 Chateau-Margaux. — Mouton. — Laffltte. — Medoc. — Pichon. — 
 White. Chablis. — Meursault. — Saint-Peray. — Hermitage. — Sau- 
 terne.— Champagne.— S weet Wines. Lunel.— Frontignan. 
 
PREFACE. Vii 
 
 LIQUEURS. 
 
 Eau-de-vie. — Kirsch. — Anisette. — Curasao. — Marasquin. — 
 Absinthe. — CrSme de Moka. — Noyau. — Creme de Cafd. — Huile 
 de Vanille. — Huile de Rose. — Liqueurs des lies. 
 
 As the portions served at the restaurants are very copious, 
 parties of two or more persons will do well to take portions 
 only for half their number, viz., one portion for two’persons, 
 two for four, &c. 
 
 The visitor in Paris who is inclined to go to a boarding-house 
 should be very careful to choose one of respectability ; and we 
 caution the stranger against a kind of establishment that is 
 apt to deceive foreigners, and which has become very prevalent 
 in this capital since the abolition by law of public gaming- 
 houses. Many persons have opened tables-d’hdte and board- 
 ing-houses, under cover of which card-playing to a considerable 
 extent is carried on in the evening, and the unwary visitor 
 may be easily inveigled to play, and to lose sums to a large 
 amount. They are frequented by persons of both sexes, of 
 fashionable exterior, but of very indifferent character. 
 
 The facilities of introduction and of social intercourse which 
 Paris affords to distinguished strangers far exceed those of any 
 other capital. A presentation at Court must of course be 
 sought through the usual medium, that of the ambassador of 
 the country to which the applicant may belong, and a court- 
 dress is requisite to be admitted to balls or receptions at 
 the Tuileries. Generally, however, the stranger in Paris 
 will find that the greater part of the resident families in 
 fashionable, official, or professional life, and not a few of 
 the foreign, domiciled for a longer or shorter time, receive, 
 from the commencement to the close of the winter season, 
 once a-week, in the evening, between the hours of nine 
 and twelve. Most of the eminent savants and men of let- 
 ters, chief librarians, and directors of the great literary and 
 scientific institutions of the capital, have likewise their 
 soirees. In addition to these there are numberless private 
 balls and occasional parties, to which personal respecta- 
 bility and suitable acquaintance ensure easy access. What we 
 may call more public and advantageous, are the evening recep- 
 tions of the Ministers of State, the presidents of the Senate 
 and Legislative Body, the ecclesiastical dignitaries, the chiefs of 
 the national guard, the prefect of the Seine, the higher munici- 
 pal functionaries, and even the directors and principal artistes 
 of the first theatres. In the course of a month the prominent 
 persons of every department of political, literary, and fashion- 
 able life may be seen at the various soirees, so as to content 
 thj curiosity of a well-bred stranger of liberal tastes and active 
 
VIU 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 social habits. The host does not spontaneously serve as in- 
 troducer ; considerin" the multitude of foreigners circulating • 
 the task would indeed be impossible ; but a request suffices for 
 the formation of a cursoiy -acquaintance, which is often im- 
 proved into an agreeal)le intimacy. At these assemblages long 
 visits and long “talks” are not hon ton; as it is the custom to 
 attend several the same evening. The name of the guestis usually 
 announced at the door of the salon ; after a salutation of tho 
 hosts, movement within and exit are entirely free. Wiioea er 
 wishes to be presented at the soiree of a Minister does best to 
 seek the auspices of the diplomatic representative of his coun- 
 try, wlio ushers the elite only, and with a discrimination uni- 
 versally expected. The foreign legations and agents, and the 
 superioi- officers, in full uniform, together with strangers of 
 rank, and natives and envoys from all regions in costume, 
 who frequent them, produce an exceedingly imposing efiect. 
 A refined and amiable courtesy marks tile deportment of 
 all the entertainers. The number of ladies that figure at the 
 Ministerial soirees is comparatively small ; yet most of the fe- 
 male members of the Ministers’ families appear also. Little 
 conversation, however, takes place; a passing boxv, or a few 
 sentences from a familiar acquaintance, is the most that polite- 
 ness or gallantry can bestow on these occasions. The public 
 halls of a benevolent nature afford opportunity, at the cost 
 of ten or twenty francs a ticket, of seeing the haul ton of 
 French and foreign society. 
 
 The professional reader will find in the chapter on Medical 
 Institutions the most ample information, now so frequently 
 required by foreigners, more especially by the English and 
 Americans. 
 
 Ample information will likewise he found respecting births, 
 deaths, marriages, wills, trade-marks, etc. 
 
 The English Hospital and Asylum, 3 5, Boulevard Bineau, 
 Parc de Neuilly, outside’ the Barricre Villiers, erected in 
 18C6, and long much needed, well deserves a visit from the 
 stranger, it being quite a model hospital (see p. 123). 
 
 The following few remarks on the best mode of visiting the 
 Environs of Paris may be useful to the stranger. 
 
 Persons visiting Versailles shoidd leave Paris not later than 
 9 a.m. and proceed by the Versailles and Meudon railroad (left 
 bank). Boulevard Montparnasse, the station of which at 
 Versailles is the nearest to the palace. Tins will allow of a 
 cursory glance being taken of the exterior of the palace, and 
 at 1 1 o’clock, the time of opening the doors, visitors can enter 
 at once and inspect the interior without being annoyed by the 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 ix 
 
 crowd. Those provided with special tickets, obtained as de- 
 scribed at p. iv., may claim the services of a separate attendant 
 to view the reserved apartments, and will thus he spared the 
 annoyance of being shown through them hurriedly in hatches 
 of from thirty to forty persons. The same may he said of the 
 Trianons, which should not he visited on the same day as Ver- 
 sailles, if they would he enjoyed. The stranger may return 
 to Paris by the Versailles and St. Cloud railroad (right bank), 
 by which means two magnificent views of Paris and the 
 neighbouring country will he obtained, one from the south by 
 the former railroad, the other from the west and northwest by the 
 latter. The museum of Versailles is closed on Mondays. 
 
 The Lyons railroad will take the stranger to Fontaine- 
 bleau. Leaving Paris by the first or second train, he will be 
 there by 9 to 11 o’clock (1.) The magnificent palace, more his- 
 toric in its decorations than Versailles, and with its park and 
 gardens forming altogether the finest sight of the kind in France, 
 may then be fully inspected. If the visitor be not afraid of a 
 little fatigue, he will have time*enough to hire a carriage for a 
 drive of a few hours to the more picturesque points of the fa- 
 mous forest, full of romantic beauties and rocky scenery, 
 which would well employ another day, if it could be spared. 
 
 Many other delightful excursions may be made in the envi- 
 rons of Paris, a great number of which are now easily accom- 
 plished by the existing railroads. Thus the Chartres line 
 passes through Rambouillet, famed for its chateau and park ; 
 through Gaillardon, with its old historical Donjon ^ Maintenon, 
 remarkable for the splendid chateau and park of the Due de 
 Noailles, with the adjoining aqueduct ; and Chartres, cele- 
 brated for its beautiful cathedral and valuable library, con- 
 taining upwards of 1000 manuscripts, both of which may 
 he seen in one day. — The Versailles railroad (right bank) 
 passes through the villages of Suresne, Puteaux, St. Cloud, 
 and Sevres. The Auteuil branch offers a convenient mode 
 of conveyance to the Bois de Boulogne ; the station of 
 the Avenue de Flmperatrice is the best for that purpose. (See 
 p. 486.) — The Versailles railroad (left bank), by Meudon, 
 Bellevue, — The St. Germain line touches at Nanterre, 
 Rueil, andChatou, where the ad joining Park of Vesinet offers 
 charming walks. At this station vehicles may be found for 
 Bougival, Marly, and the wood of La Celle. — The Rouen line 
 touches at Poissy, Meulan, and Mantes. — The Northern passes 
 
 (i) The IncVcideur lies Chemins de Fer, which gives the hours of 
 departure of the railway trains of all the lines may be had for 
 a few sous at all the omnibus offices. 
 
X tRfiFACE. 
 
 through St. Denis, a town not to be on any account omitted, 
 and Enghien-les-Bains, from which place a railway goes to 
 Montmorency, the forest of which is highly picturesque ; 
 a ride by the Hermitage to Ecouen, or by Andilly to the 
 Rendez-vous de Chasse, is one of the greatest treats that 
 a lover of fine scenery can enjoy. At the Chantilly station of 
 the same line, which also touches at Poutoise, there is a 
 branch railway to Senlis, which may easily be seen in a day ; 
 further on is Compiegne, whence the stranger may proceed 
 to the ruins and spa of Pierrefonds, and the Roman camp of 
 Champlieu, with its amphitheatre, and other antiquities, these 
 excursions requiring a day, including the return to Compiegne. 
 Lastly, Ermenonville and Mortefontaine may be reached by 
 hiring carriages at Senlis, which will also take a day.— 
 By the Strasbourg line the stranger may visit Meaux, the 
 cathedral containing the monument of Bossuet, and the walks 
 in which he used to meditate his works. — The Sceaux rail- 
 road leads to Arcueil, Bagneux, and Bourg-la-Reine. From 
 hence vehicles go to Chatillon and Fontenay-aux-Roses. — The 
 Orleans line touches at Choisy-le-Roi, and a branch of the 
 Lyons line leads direct to Corbeil. — The new Vincennes 
 railroad affords great facilities for visiting Vincennes, St. Maur, 
 and Fontenay-sous-Bois, in one day. The Park of Vincennes 
 has now become the chief attraction at the east end of the 
 capital ; the Parc de Chaumont, laid out with extraordinary 
 taste, and affording one of the finest views of Paris, enlivens 
 the quarter of La Villette, and the west end boasts the Park 
 of Monceaux, in addition to the delightful Park of Boulogne 
 and the Champs Elysdes. 
 
 The FStes of most of the places in the environs of Paiis are 
 held on a Sunday, but, as they change every year with the 
 moveable festivalsj to avoid leading the stranger into error, we 
 have not given the day in our description of the places, refer- 
 ring the reader for correct information to the notices published 
 beforehand in the daily English journal, Galigmni’s Messenger. 
 
NEW PARIS GUIDE. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 PASSPORTS. — The passport system, which was lately 
 enforced with great rigour in France, has now been abolished 
 here so far as English, B elgia n, and Dutch travellers are con- 
 (cerned. To viStf^hv rMof the ConttneiltT^’ Brifish subject 
 jmust be provided with a Foreign Office Passport, available 
 ]for one year ; the tourist must apply in writing to “ Her Ma- 
 ijesty’s Secretary of State, Foreign Office, London,” with the 
 I word “Passport” conspicuously written on the cover. Par- 
 ! ties not personally known to the Secretary of State must ap- 
 ' ply through a person who is, or through a banking Firm, 
 or a Member of either House of Parliament, or with a cer- 
 tificate of identity signed by any mayor, magistrate, justice 
 of the peace, minister of religion, physician, surgeon, so- 
 licitor or notary, resident in the United Kingdom. Every 
 such certificate must bear the signature of the tourist, who 
 may obtain his passport at the Foreign Office the day follow- 
 ing the receipt of application, between 11 and 4, either in 
 person, or by deputy, with a written authorisation, in this 
 case the words “Passport will be applied for at the 
 Foreign Office” must be added to the certificate of identity. 
 If it is desired that the passport should be sent by post, the 
 sum of two shillings must be forwarded, with the application, 
 by post-office order, made payable to the “ Chief Clerk of the 
 Foreign Office ” at the post-office. Charing Cross. The passport 
 must receive the visa of the ambassador or consul-general of 
 the country or countries which the tourist intends to visit. 
 
 Since the 1st of January 1861, British subjects may enter 
 and circulate freely without passports, provided they pre- 
 sent themselves at the passport olfice on landing, to have 
 their nationality identified. A British subject may secure the 
 advantage of visiting the public establishments of Paris by 
 
2 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 having his visiting-card stamped by a functionary appointed 
 for the purpose at the port or frontier. This formality, how- 
 ever, IS almost unnecessary. (1.) 
 
 ROUTES TO PARIS. — The following is a list of the various 
 routes from the coast to Paris, ail by railway. 
 
 I. Calais to Paris in S to lo hours, by Arras and Amiens. 
 
 II. Boulogne to Paris in 6 to 8 hours. (Fine church at 
 Abbeville, and Cathedral at Amiens.) 
 
 III. Havre to Paris, in 5 to 7 hours, passing through 
 Rouen. (Cathedral of St. Ouen, statue of Joan of Arc, Museum, 
 Bridge, Qua}’-s, &c., are well worth stopping one day at Rouen.) 
 
 IV. Dieppe to Paris, through Rouen, in 5 to 7 hours. 
 
 V. OsTEND TO Paris, by Brussels, Lille, &c., in 12 to 13 hours. 
 
 CONVEYANCES. — Correct information respecting these 
 
 may he obtained at the railroad and packet offices in London. 
 The Dover, Folkestone, Southampton, and Brighton trains leave 
 several times a-day to meet the packets. The best routes to 
 Paris for rapidity are by the morning or evening mail-post 
 trains, by Dover and Calais in 1 1 hours ; for day travelling, 
 Folkestone and Boulogne; and for scenery, but with a longer 
 sea passage, Southampton to Havre, or Newhaven to Dieppe. 
 
 Steam Packets. — Packets leave London-bridge for Calais 
 and Boulogne, almost daily, especially in summer. Packets 
 start daily from Dover and Folkestone ; from Newhaven to 
 Dieppe, and Southampton to Havre, the Channel islands, 
 St. Malo, &c., several times a-week. 
 
 Purlic Coaches. — Diligences carry aliout 15 passengers, 
 and contain several kinds of places. All luggage above 40lb. 
 to 50lb. per head is charged. The day, hour, and seat, are 
 marked on the receipt. For information apply to the Messa- 
 geries Imperiales, 28, rue Notre-Dame des Victoires ; and 130, 
 rue St. Houore, and to the coach-offices (see list before title-p.j 
 
 Posting. — To travel by post, a livre de paste, price 4 fr., 
 containing all requisite information, should be procured. Fee 
 to the postilion, 2 fr. per myriametre (about miles), if he 
 has behaved well; legally, 1 fr. Carriages may be hired lor 
 journeys from the postmasters at about 12 fr. per diem. 
 
 RAILROADS. — Eleven of these, having stations in Paris, are 
 in operation; viz.: I. The St. Germain railroad, 124, rue St. 
 Lazare, the first railway opened (1837 .) — II. The Rouen rail- 
 road, 9, rue d’ Amsterdam, continued to Havre, with a branch 
 o Dieppe. — III. The Versailles railroad on the northern 
 
 (0 Last year Ihe number of arrivals and departures of British 
 sulijeets were as follows .—Boulogne, 106,392; Calais, 77,205 ; 
 Ollier porl-s 5G,oi2; total, 239,609. 
 
CONVEYANCES. 3 
 
 bank of the Seine, 124, rue St. Lazare, communicating 
 with St. Cloud and intermediate places. — IV. The Western 
 railroad, boulevard Montparnasse, leading to Cherbourg by 
 Versailles and Rennes. — V. The Orleans railroad, rue Neuve 
 de la Care (near the Jardin des Plantes), through Nantes, 
 Bordeaux and Bayonne, with branches to Limoges and 
 Toulouse. — VI. The Sceaux and Orsay railroad, boulevard St. 
 Jacques, on the Arnoux system (see p. 647.) — VII. Tlie Nor- 
 them railroad, 24, rue de Dunkerque, connecting Paris with 
 the Belgian frontier by Amiens and Valenciennes. It has 
 branches to Soissons, St. Quentin, Boulogne, and Calais. — 
 VIII. The Strasbourg railroad, place de Strasbourg (boule- 
 vard of that name). — IX. The Lyons railroad, boulevard Mazas, 
 touching at Fontainebleau. — X. The Corheil railroad, a 
 branch of the preceding.— XI. The Vincennes railroad, 
 a suburban line, opened in 1859.— XII. The Chemin de fer 
 de Ceinture, or railway round Paris. (1) Notices of the fares 
 and hours of departure, may be obtained gratis at the re- 
 spective stations (2). Connecting omnibuses for these rail- 
 ways may be found at different points of Paris (3). 
 
 STEAM-BOATS start from the Quai d’Orsay in summer, 
 for Sevres and St. Cloud, several times a day, and from the 
 Quai de la Greve, for Melun and Montereau. There are also 
 omnibus-boats on the Seine, intended for direct communica- 
 tion between Bercy and St. Cloud during the Great Exhibition 
 of 1867. 
 
 MUNICIPAL DIVISION OF PARIS.— The stranger, on his 
 
 ( 1 ) This railway has stations for passengers as well as goods 
 at Auteuil, and at all Ihe above railway lines, which it crosses. 
 It passes over the Pont Napoleon, beyond Bercy, and is now 
 being continued on the left bank. Its length on the right bank 
 is 30,000 metres (to miles). It has cost 22,000,000 fr. 
 
 (2) In France the reserved compartments in all passenger 
 trains are severally mai’ked “ Post-office,” “For ladies only,” 
 “For smokers,” or simply “Reserved.” No persons except 
 those entitled so to do are allowed to enter such comparlmenls. 
 
 (3) The length of all the railroads of France working in 1866 
 was 8,473 miles; their receipts were i 836 , 559,997,018 fr. They 
 annually pay 43 millions of francs taxes. Capital invested 4 , 35 o 
 millions of francs, 7 50 of which arc paid by Government. The 
 number of persons attached to the working of railways in 
 France is 70,000 ; the rolling stock comprises 3,151 engines and 
 tenders, 7,000 carriages, and 60,000 trucks, etc. The quantity 
 of fuel consumed per day is 3,000 tons. The annual number of 
 passengersis about i,400 millions. The loss of life by accidents 
 is t in t, 935, .353 passengers; wounds, i to 496 , 531 . _ By dili- 
 gence the ratios were respectively 1 in 355 , 463 , and 1 in 29 , 871 . 
 
4 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 arrival in Paris, should not neglect acquiring, by the study 
 of his map, a general idea of the 20 arrondissements and 80 
 quarters into which the capital is divided, and of which the 
 following is a list : — 
 
 1ST. Louvre. 
 
 t. St. Germain I’Auxerrois. — 
 3. Halles. — 3. Palais Royal. — i. 
 Place Vendome. 
 
 2d. Bourse. 
 
 5 . Gaillon. — 6. Vivienne. — 7. 
 Mail. — 8. Bonne Nouvelle. 
 
 3d. Temple. 
 
 9. Arts et Metiers. — 10 . En- 
 fants Rouges. — n. Archives. — 
 12. Ste. Avoie. 
 
 4th. Hotel-de-Ville. 
 13.St.Merri. — i4.St. Gervais. 
 — 1 5. Arsenal. — 16. Notre Dame. 
 5th. Pantheon. 
 
 17. St. Victor. — 18. Jardin des 
 Plantes. — 1 9. Val de Grace. 20 . 
 Sorbonne. 
 
 6th. Luxembourg. 
 
 21 . Monnaie. — 22. Od^on.— 
 
 23. Notre-Dame des Champs. — 
 
 24. St. Germain des Prds. 
 
 7th. Palais Bourbon. 
 
 25. St. Thomas d’Aquin. — 26. 
 Invalides. — 27. Ecole militaire. 
 — 28. Gros-Caillou. 
 
 8th. Elysee. 
 
 29. Champs Elys^es. — 30 . 
 Faubourg du Roule. — 31. Made- 
 leine. — 32. Europe. 
 
 9th. Opera. 
 
 33 . St. Georges. — 34. Chaus- 
 s^e d’Antin. — 35 Faub. Mont- 
 martre. — 36. Rochechouart. 
 10th. Enclos St. Laurent. 
 
 37. St. Vincent de Paul. — 38. 
 Porte St. Penis. — 39. Porte St. 
 Martin.— 40. Hopital St. Louis. 
 
 11 TH. POPINCOURT. 
 
 ■ 41. Folie-M6ricourt. — 42. St. 
 
 Ambroise. — 43. Roquette. — 44. 
 Ste. Marguerite. 
 
 12th. Reuilly. 
 
 4 5. Bel Air. — 46. Picpus. — 47 , 
 Bercy.— 48. Quinze-Vingts. 
 13th. Gobelins. 
 
 49. Salp^tri&re.-50. Gare.— 
 51. Maison Blanche. — 52. Crou- 
 lebarbe. 
 
 14th. Observatoire. 
 
 53. Montparnasse.— 54. Sant^. 
 — 55. Petit-Montrouge. — se. 
 Plaisance. 
 
 13th. Vaugirard. 
 
 57. St. Lambert.— 58. Necker. 
 — 59 . Grenelle .— 60 Javel. 
 16th. Passy. 
 
 61 . Auteuil.— 62 . La Muette. 
 — 63. Porte Dauphine. — 64 . Des 
 Bassins. 
 
 17. Batignolles Monceaux. 
 
 65. Ternes.— 66. Plaine Mon- 
 ceaux.— 67. Batignolles. — 68. 
 Epinettes. 
 
 18th. Butte Montmartre. 
 
 69. Grandes Carri^res. — 70 . 
 Clignancourt.— 71 . Goutte d’Or. 
 — 72. La Chapelle. 
 
 19th. Buttes Chaumont 
 73. La Villette.— 74. Pont de 
 Flandre. — 75. Ain^rique. — 76. 
 Combat. 
 
 20th. Menilmontant. 
 
 77. Belleville. — 78. St. Far- 
 geau. — 79. P^re-Lachaise. — so. 
 Charonne. 
 
 CARRIAGES, HACKNEY-COACHES— FozTures de grande 
 remise (glass coaches) may be hired by the day or month 
 at from 25 to 30 fr. a-day, or from 600 to 700 fr. a-month 
 They will go a certain distance out of Paris, but must be back 
 again before midnight, unless agreed upon ; and with a small 
 additional charge a lad is given to go behind the carriage. 
 
 There are two kinds of public cabs, the one called voi- 
 
CARRIAGES AND HACKNEy-COACIIES. 5 
 
 lures de remise, which go rather quicker, and are to he 
 found under covered standings ; they are rather superior to 
 the others, called voitures de place, or Fiacres, which are 
 ranged in public stands. The former are distinguished by a 
 red number, the latter by a yellow one. The following is a 
 table of the maximum fares allowed to be charged : — 
 
 INSIDE PARIS. 
 
 From 6 o’clock a.m. in summer 
 (1st April to 1st October), and 
 from 7 a m. in winter (1st 
 October to 31st March) to 
 halt- an-hour after midnight. 
 
 Hackney coaches 
 and voilures de 
 remise taken on 
 thepwiftc stands 
 
 Drive. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 Drive. 
 
 Holding two or 
 
 f. c. 
 
 f. c. 
 
 f. c. 
 
 three persons . 
 
 1 50 
 
 2 0 
 
 2 25 
 
 Holding four or five 
 Remise, taken at 
 private stands : 
 Holding two or 
 
 1 70 
 
 2 26 
 
 2 50 
 
 three persons . 
 
 1 80 
 
 2 25 
 
 3 0 
 
 Holding four orflve 
 
 2 0 
 
 2 50 
 
 3 0 
 
 LUGGAGE : One package, 26c. ; two, 
 
 From half- 
 an-hour after 
 midnight to 6 
 a.m. in summer 
 and to 7 a.m. 
 in winter. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 BEYOND THE FOR- 
 TIFICATIONS. 
 Bois de Boulogne, 
 Bois de Vincennes, and 
 the communes outside 
 the fortifications , 
 
 From 6 a.m. to mid- 
 night in summer or 10 
 p m. in winter. 
 
 When re- 
 turn in g 
 with the 
 cab to Paris 
 
 The drive 
 or hour, 
 f. c. 
 
 2 60 1 
 2 76 J 
 
 When quit- 
 tingthe cab 
 beyond the 
 fortficatns. 
 
 Return 
 
 indemnity. 
 
 1 franc. 
 
 3 0 2 francs, 
 
 three or more, 76c. 
 
 Coachmen load and unload all trunks, etc. Whatever article 
 can be carried in the hand, or taken inside without injuring 
 the vehicle cannot be charged as luggage. 
 
 It is customary to give the driver a small gratuity, of 
 ! from 3 to 10 sous, according to time. (1) 
 
 When it is intended to take the carriage by the hour, the 
 ; driver must be told so beforehand, else he can demand the price 
 : of a “ course ” for each stoppage. The traveller should show 
 jthe driver the time by his watch. After the first hour, 
 the time above the full hour is paid in proportion. — 
 
 (i) There are no police-regulations concerning fares for 
 drives beyond the fortifications after 10 p.m. in winter and 
 12 in summer; but a bargain may be made. The fare is stuck 
 up inside for the information of the public. Impositions of 
 the driver are severely punished. Although cab-driving is no 
 longer a monopoly, nearly all the voilures de ptace belong to the 
 same Company, which clears about 2 ,ooo,ooofr. per annum, 
 with a capital of I2,5o0,ooofr. It employs il,ooo horses, and 
 pays the City about 2 ,ooo,o 0 ofr. per annum for licence and 
 poach-lax. A voiturede pface produces tsfr. daily. 
 
6 GENEIUL IIS'FORMATION. 
 
 The driver is bound to give a printed card with his number, 
 which it is well to preserve, in case of forgetting anything in 
 the coach. (1) All vehicles are numbered; and, incase of 
 accident or insolence, redress can be had hy writing one’s 
 complaint in a register kept at the cab-stands for the purpose. ^ 
 There are also vehicles for the environs. Those which go to 
 St. Cloud, Versailles, and St. Germain, start from the Rue 
 de Rivoli. For starting-places, see pages befoie title. (2) 
 OMNIBUSES. — There are 1 lines of omnil)uses (3) in 
 Paris, which ply from 8 a.m. to 11 p.ra. They convey 
 about 80 millions of passengers per annum, for o sous inside, 
 and 3 on the imperiale, or top. They stop at different offices , 
 or bureaux on their way, to take up passengers, and set down 
 those who have claimed a check, called correspondance, de- 
 livered gratis by the “cad,” for the purpose of deviating from 
 the direct line. In the following list the capital letter denotes 
 the line, the rest its extremities and the offices where the 
 omnibus may be waited for ; 
 
 A.— Palais Royal, Auteuil— Along tlie Cours la Rcinc and the quays. 
 
 AB -Place de la Bourse, Passy.— Place de la Madeleine ; H7, Rue du Fau- 
 bourg St. HonorC. 
 
 A<".— fours la Reine, Petite Villctte.-15, Rue Rovale St. Hon.; 79 , Rue 
 l.afayelle. 
 
 AD.- Pont de PAlma, Chateau d'cau.— 78, Rue St. Dominique; Place 
 Dauphine. ’ 
 
 (1; Rewards, averaging 6 o per annum, are given to drivers 
 for honesty in restoring articles of value left in Iheir carriages, 
 and which have been known to amount to 300,000 fr. in one 
 year. Tlie arlicles are delivered hy the finders to the Prefecture 
 de Police, where they are restored to Ihe owners. 
 
 (2) The number of public carriages authorised by the police 
 is 7698, thus classed: — Hackney-coaches and cabriolets, 3000 ; 
 voitures de remise, 2598; omnibuses, 700 ; glass-coaches, t, 40 o! 
 
 The number of vehicles of every kind circulating in the 
 streets is staled at 60,259, including 27,938 public and pri- 
 vate carriages, all taxed at the rale of 60 fr. for four-wheeled, 
 and 40 fr. for two-wheeled vehicles; and of persons circu- 
 lating annually in the former, 100,000,000. The number of 
 horses in Paris is stated at 1 14 , 000 . The first carriage which 
 appeared in France was that of Isabella of Bavaria, in 4 405 . 
 
 ( 3 ) The new charter of the omnibus company, by which it 
 has the monopoly of those vehicles, expires in 1910. It pays the 
 City 1,000,000 fr. for the right of driving 500 omnilmses.: 
 The Company is hound to keep special omnibuses for the 
 conveyance of workmen at the option of the municipality ^ 
 and, when required, to furnish 50 carts for the removal of 
 ice or snow, or conveyance of sand to put down on the public 
 way. The Company now sell tickets which may be bought 
 beforehand, like postage-stamps, for paying the fare. 
 
POST-OFFICE. 7 
 
 AE. -Place des Arts et Metiers, Vincennes.— 78, fioiilcvard du rcnii)le, 
 Place du Trdnc. Correspondence with E. 
 
 AF. — Place Coil rcelles, Panthdon— Place de la Madeleine; to, Rue Royale 
 St. Honord ; Place de la Concorde, florrcspondcnce with AB, E, and A. 
 
 AG. — Strashurg Railway, Montrougc.— Place du Chatclet, Pont St. Michel 
 Correspondence with G. 
 
 B. — Chaillot, Strashurg Railway.— 96. Avenue des Champs Elysde.s^ 15, Rue 
 Royale; Place do la Madeleine; Versailles lermiuus; 78, Rue St. Lazare ; 
 Rue Ollivier, Notre Dame de I.orette ; 2, Rue Bleue. 
 
 C. — Louvre, Courhevoie.— Rue du Louvre; Place du Palais Royal; Avenue 
 des Champs Elysees, corner of Rue de Berry. 
 
 D. — Ternes, FillesduCalvaire.— 117, Faubourg St. Honore; 15, Rue Royale; 
 Place de la Madeleine; 155, Rue St. Honore. 
 
 ji E.— Madeleine, Bastille.— Along the Boulevards. Correspondence with D. 
 
 F.— Monccaux, Bastille.— Versailles terminus ; Place de la Madeleine ; Rue 
 Catinat; 30, Rue Ramhuteau. 
 
 i G.— Batignolles-Monceaux, Jardin des Plantes.— Place du Palais Royal ; 78, 
 
 ■■ Rue St. Lazare ; Place du Chatclet. 
 
 H. — Clichy, Odeon.— 9, Rue Ollivier; 8, Boulevard des Italiens; Place du 
 Palais RovaV; 10, Place St. Sulpice. 
 
 I. — Montmartre, Halle aux vins.— Place de la Bourse ; Rue Croix des Petite 
 Champs; Place Dauphine. Correspondence with AB. 
 
 J. — Place Pigallc, la Glaciere.— Place du ChtUelel; 2, Pont St. Michel 
 1-1, Rue Soufflot. 
 
 K. — College de France, La Chapelle.— Porte St. Denis ; Place du Chatclet ; 
 Pont St. Michel. Correspondence with E 
 
 L. --Place St. Sulpice, villetle.— Pont St. Mitticl; Porte St. Martin. Cor- 
 respondence with E. 
 
 M. — Les Ternes, Belleville, Boulevards Exterieurs.— Correspondence with 
 H and J. 
 
 N. — Belleville, Place des victoircs.- 78, Boulevard du Temple ; Porte St, 
 
 ‘ Martin ; Porto St. Denis ; Rue Catinat. Correspondence with E. 
 
 i O.— jMdnilmontant, Chaussde du Maine.— Boulevard des FillesduCalvaire; 
 
 : Place du Chatclet; Place St. Sulpice. Correspondence with E. 
 
 p.-('.haronne (for Pere La ChaiscL Place d’ltalie —Place de la Bastille. 
 Correspondence w ith E, F, AE, Q, R, S and Z. 
 
 Q. — Palais Royal, Trdnc.— Rue du Louvre; Place du Chatelet; Place dela 
 Bastille. Correspondence with E. 
 
 R. — St. Philippe du Ronle, Boulevard Charenton.- 15, Rue Royale; Rue du 
 Louvre: Place do la Bastille. 
 
 S. — pouvre, Bcrcy.— Rue du Louvre; Place de la Bastille. 
 
 T. -Sqnare Moniholon, Gare d’lvry.-Porle St. Denis ; 30, Rue Ramhuteau ; 
 Pont Louis Philippe ; Quai de la Tournclle. 
 
 U. — Pointe St. Eustachc, Bicfitrc.- Place du Chatclet; Halle aux Vins, 
 Correspondence with G. 
 
 V. — Maine. Chemin de For du Nord.— 55, Rue de S6vres; Place Dauphine 
 Rue du Louvre. 
 
 X. — Place du Havre, Vaugirard.— Place du PalaisRoyal ; 69, Rue de Grenello 
 St. Germain ; 55, Rue do S6vres. 
 
 Y. -Grcnelic, Porte St. Martin.— Corner of Rue do FEglise; Place du 
 Palais Roval. 
 
 Z. — Grenellc, Bastille.— 69, Rue de Grcnclle; 10, Place St, Sulpice; I't, 
 Boulevard St. Germain. 
 
 POST OFFICE. — The General Post-office is in the rue Jean 
 Jacques Rousseau ; the branch offices arc divided into bureaux 
 principaux, as those at 24, rue de Seze ; 4, Place de la Bourse ; 
 at the Corps Legislatif, and at the Luxembourg, etc.; and into 
 bureaux supplement air es, as those at 3, rue del’Echelle; 
 
GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 75, Faubourg St. Honore; at 3, rue de Chaillot; at 30, rue 
 de Londres ; at the Lyons, Orleans, and Northern railway 
 stations, etc. There are also receiving boxes, boites aux 
 lettres, at tobacconists’ shops, etc., in every part of the town. 
 
 Unregistered letters are in time for the evening mail at the 
 boites, till 5o clock, at the bureaux principauxiiW a quarter to 
 6 0 clock; at the Bourse, and at the head office till 6 o’clock, 
 for Lyons, Marseilles, and Algeria, till 7, at the Lyons rail- 
 way station. For Orleans, Tours, Bordeaux, and the Py- 
 renees, till 8, at the Orleans railway station. For Rouen, 
 Havre, Dieppe, till 9 at the boites; till lo, at the bureau at 
 24, rue de Seze, and till half-past 10 at 30, rue de Londres. 
 
 There is also a morning mail for the Departments and 
 for Belgium, Holland, Prussia, and Baden, for which 
 letters posted at the boites by half-past 1 1 o’clock, at the 
 bureaux pnncipaux by noon, and at the head office by half- 
 past 1 2 o clock, are in time. ( 1 ) For England and the Northern 
 railway they are in time if posted as follows 
 
 At tbe Letter-boxes, before 
 
 „ Bureaux 
 
 ,, Hotel des Posies \ ” 
 
 >, 4, Place de la Bourse J ” 
 
 Northern Railway „ 
 
 Morning mail. 
 
 9 p.m. 
 p.m. 
 
 a.m. 
 6 }^ a.m. 
 
 Evening Mail. 
 
 5 p.m. 
 5}^ p.m. 
 
 6 p.m. 
 
 7 p.m. 
 
 Letters leaving London at 7 a.m. are delivered in Paris at 
 about 7 p.m. ; and by the evening mail at 9 a.m. There 
 is no arrival on Monday morning from England. (2) 
 
 Letters may be posted after 6 p.m. at the Central Office, or 
 at 4, Place de la Bourse, on paying an extra tax of 20 c. 
 within the first quarter of an hour, of 40 c. within the second, 
 or of 60 c. after that time until the closing of the mail-bags. 
 At 28, Place de la Madeleine, and 11, rue St. Lazare, the 
 time is calculated from a quarter before six. 
 
 The English government boats which leave Marseilles on 
 the 5th, 12th, 20th, and 28th of every month, take the mails 
 for Malta, Alexandria, Aden, the East Indies, the Indian Ar- 
 chipelago, and China. That of the 28th also takes the mails 
 for Australia. French boats also start from Marseilles every 
 Thursday to Malta, every other Sunday to Malta and Alex- 
 andria, and every Saturday for Constantinople. Letters for 
 these departures should be posted in Paris two days pre- 
 viously ; but for the English steamers letters posted at the 
 head office are in time until 9^ a.m., of the 4th, 11th, 19th, 
 
 (1) There are two and more general posts a-day, (o many 
 places distant 450 kilometres (280 miles) and more from Paris. 
 
 ( 2 ) Letters for London put into the Post-office in Paris on Sa- 
 turday are delivered on Monday, with those put in on Sunday. 
 
9 
 
 POST-OFFICE. 
 
 and 27th of each month. When for Aden and other parts 
 beyond, they should be marked “voie de Suez (1). Letters 
 eoine through England must be marked “vote d Angleterre, 
 and ‘‘ by private ship,” if that is the intention, and be posted 
 in Paris 2 days before the departure from England. 
 
 Letters are franked, either by putting on st^ps of 
 sufficient value, or else by having them weighed at the 
 post-office, to avoid mistake. (2) A letter posted with in- 
 sufficient stamps for a foreign country goes as unpaid if the 
 prepayment for that country is optional, and if not, is thrown 
 into the dead letter office. Letters for England only pay the 
 difference between the value of the stamps and the postage. 
 
 Letters are registered (chargees) for any part of France, 
 and for those foreign countries to which the franking is op- 
 tional. Inland letters pay four sous extra; for foreign 
 countries they pay double postage. These letters must be 
 
 prepaid and must have five seals thus placed, so as JC ^ 
 to make it impossible to open any part, and be pre- 
 sented at a post-office. A receipt is given for them, lr _ — ^ 
 and in case of loss 50 francs are allowed. 
 
 Paris letters for Paris (3) pay, if prepaid, 2 sous for under 
 20 grammes, 4 sous for under 40 grammes, etc., and 5 cent, 
 more if not prepaid. There are 7 deliveries per day, letters 
 arriving from 3 to 4 hours after being posted (4). 
 
 Newspapers, periodicals, and other works in print must be 
 secured with strips of paper called bandes, so as not to cover 
 more than one-third of the surface, and to allow of their 
 being easily removed to examine the contents. If they con- 
 tain anything in writing except the direction, they are 
 charged as letters by weight. They must be prepaid, delivered 
 at the office, and, for the evening mail, before 2 o’clock. (5) 
 
 The following table shows the rates of postage for various 
 countries, for letters and newspapers. To the countries 
 marked with an asterisk all letters must be prepaid ; to the 
 
 (1) The French Post-office refuses letters to hot climates closed 
 with sealing wax, since it makes the letters stick together, and 
 renders the addresses illegible. 
 
 ( 2 ) Patterns of goods, photographs, and business papers, un- 
 sealed, are charged forEngland at 30c. per 1 20 grammes, or under. 
 
 (3) This service, begun in 1760, is called La Petite Paste. 
 
 ( 4 ) The total number of French post-offices was 4,500 in 186S. 
 The total number of post-oftice functionaries throughout all 
 France is upwards of 30 , 000 , including 25,000 postmen. The 
 number of the latter in Paris is 495. 
 
 (b) The number of political periodicals in Paris is 63 ; of non- 
 political, 5U. In the departments, 367 and 250 respectively. 
 
10 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 otliers franking is optional for common letters, but lettres 
 chargees, or money letters, as also newspapers, must in all 
 cases be prepaid. The latter are charged according to weight 
 the lowest being 4o grammes. For Turkey, the Papal States’ 
 the Ionian Islands, Austria, and Saxony, the weight allowed 
 for^ the price marked is 45 grammes. For larger size or 
 
 COUNTRIES. 
 
 1 ranee, Algeria, and Corsica , 
 Great Britain, (1) Malta ( 1 ) . . 
 British N. America, Greece 
 South America on tiie Bacifle * 
 
 South America on the Atlantic* 
 
 Paraguay (1) 
 
 Central America*, Venezuela*, 
 
 liermuda* 
 
 Portugal*, Azores*, Madeira* . . 
 St. Helena*, Cape Verd*, Australia*, 
 
 Cape* 
 
 East and West Indies, Aden. Ceylon 
 Hong Kong, Mauritius, New Zealand 
 Cliina*, United States ( 1 ) . . . 
 
 Spain (1), Bavaria, Italy . . 
 
 Belgium 
 
 Denmark 
 
 Switzeiland 
 
 Alexandria, Constantinople (sea) . 
 Turkey (land), to Austrian frontier 
 Sweden il). Papal States (1) . . 
 
 Austria, Venice 
 
 Russia, Poland 
 
 Baden (1) . . . . i 1 . j 
 
 Saxony (1), Prussia, French Colonies 
 
 For most countries the unit 
 
 Single 
 
 letters . 
 
 NEWSPAPERS 
 
 
 Un- 
 
 always 
 
 
 
 franked . 
 
 prepaid. 
 
 f. 
 
 C. 
 
 f. 
 
 c. 
 
 c. 
 
 0 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 60 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 40 
 
 0 
 
 80 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 12, 8 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 0 
 
 80 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 80 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 60 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 80 
 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 80 
 
 0 
 
 80 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 80 
 
 0 
 
 80 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 80 
 
 0 
 
 80 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 40 
 
 0 
 
 60 
 
 8, 10, 6 
 
 
 30 
 
 
 50 
 
 6 
 
 
 90 
 
 
 99 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 30 
 
 0 
 
 50 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 50 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 60 
 
 0 
 
 60 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 10, 20 
 
 0 
 
 60 
 
 0 
 
 80 
 
 10 
 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 30 
 
 0 
 
 40 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 50 
 
 0 
 
 60 
 
 10, 10, 12 
 
 ^ weight is 7 */2 grammes: 
 
 equal to j dwt. English, or to a franc and a half in silver. 
 
 Postage stamps are ; green, for 1 sou, for newspapers and 
 visiting cards. Bistre, for 2 sous. Blue, for 4 sous. Chestnut 
 or 6 sous. Orange, for 8. Red, for 16 sous; and Violet’ 
 lor 5 Ir , They are used indiscriminately to make up the A^alue 
 lequiied, and sold at all the post-offices and tobacconists. ( 2 ) 
 
 weight is grammes. In France 
 iiic douhle letter, weighing 20 grammes, costs 40 c., but from 20 
 to 100 grammes the cliarge is only sue. 
 
 vcSJ-lo receipts of the Post-office for fifteen 
 
 yeaisgive (he foHowmg resulis : — 
 
 18U fr. I I860 G3,96,-i.726 fr.. 
 
 1812 4i n <l'w” 8«, 228 „ 1861 66,781,059,, 
 
 185a 1 ” oel ^^'^60,833 „ 1862 69,928,075 „ 
 
 ,, H858 57,373,216 I 1863 72 S7ft 
 
 In (CO. 61,595,136,’,’ | 1865 75’o0o!o'o0 
 
 in 1821 , the receipts were only 24 , 000,000 fr. Uniform postage 
 
11 
 
 apartments, hotels, etc. 
 
 In registering and franking at a post-ofllce, the letter must 
 be presented from 1 to 2 hours earlier. Such letters cost 
 double. Money orders are given by one post office on any 
 other in France ; charge; 1 per cent., with 50 c. for stamp 
 duty. For Italy, Belgium, and Switzerland, they are de- 
 livered at a charge of 20 c. per 10 fr. for a sum not exceed- 
 iiw 200 fr. Orders under 200 fr. are cashed at sight. 
 
 *The Paris paste restante is open from 8 a. m. to 7 p. m. 
 except on Sundays and festivals, when it closes at 5 
 p. m. On the party’s showing his passport or card, the letter 
 will be delivered ; but the best way is to have them addressed 
 to the care of a friend, or some established house. Letters mis- 
 addressed or unclaimed (tombees en rebut) remain at the Bureau 
 des Reclamations; after 4 months they are opened, and 
 either destroyed or returned to the address of the writer. 
 
 TELEGRAPHS. — There are now 29 offices in Paris. Those 
 at the Home-office and 12, Place de la Bourse are open all 
 night. Of the others, the principal are ; — the Central Post- 
 office ; the railway-stations; the Hotel du Louvre ; the Grand 
 Hotel; No. G7, Champs Elysees ; No. 18, Rue St. Pierre, Passy. 
 A dispatch from one quarter of Paris to another costs 50 c. for 
 20 words, address included, and 10 cent, for every additional 
 5 words ; charge double if an answer be required. A dispatch 
 of 20 words from the department of the Seine to the Seine-et- 
 Oise costs 1 fr. 50 cent., and 15 cent, extra for every addi- 
 tional 5 words. (1) A dispatch by Caselli’s pantelegraph, 
 now in operation between Paris and Marseilles, is charged by 
 the surface of the leaf, at the rate of 20 c. per sq. centimetre. 
 
 APARTMENTS, HOTELS, etc. — Furnished apartments in 
 private houses are fewer than in London, being supplied in 
 Paris by private hotels, or maisons meublees, which contain 
 every kind of lodging, from complete apartments for families, 
 including separate kitchens, to a single bed-room. Here the 
 traveller enjoys the most perfect freedom from prying notice. 
 
 began in 1849 . Since then, about 90 per cent of the letters are 
 prepaid, instead of ten as before. The total sum paid for the 
 transmission of periodicals is about 6,50o,ooo fr. The number 
 of letters conveyed by the post througliout France was, in 
 
 1;;9,500,000"1 
 
 1835 
 
 233,517,000 1 
 
 1860 
 
 103, 00,'t 0 
 
 1830 
 
 252,014.873 
 
 1801 
 
 181,000,000 
 
 1837 
 
 232 921.942 
 
 1802 
 
 185, .'>'<2,000 
 
 1858 
 
 253 23 '1,000 
 
 1863 
 
 212,383, 1 0 
 
 1859 
 
 259,450,000 
 
 1804 
 
 273.200.000 
 274 UOO.C.OO 
 2 s 3 .oou.noo 
 
 200.00 ,000 
 298,000,000 
 
 (i) The receipts for private dispatches amounted in i8C4to 
 5 315 000 francs. The mean time of Paris is now telegraphed 
 from the Observatory to the Hotel de Ville, and thence to the 
 principal public clocks. There are at present in France 100,000 
 kilometres ( 02,500 miles) of telegraphic lines, and i,606 stations. 
 
GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 It is not usual, nor is it advantageous, to go to a maison 
 mevbUe for a stay of a few days. Of hotels there is a great 
 abundance in Paris, from the most luxurious down to those of 
 the very humblest description. Lodgings may be hired by 
 the night, week, or month ; the price ought always to be 
 agreed on beforehand, even for a single night ; the price 
 ot a bed-room for one night varies from 2 to 5 fr. (j) There 
 are numerous boarding-houses at different charges, both French 
 and English (see p. 88). Unfurnished apartments may be 
 taken per quarter, and furniture purchased cheap at second- 
 hand shops, or hired from upholsterers. Good hotels are 
 generally provided with a table d’hote, which the traveller 
 will find a better plan than sending for a dinner to a restaurant 
 or traiteur. Apartments may be had by the day, week, or 
 month ; breakfasts are served in the coffee-room or in private 
 apartments, and visitors may dine at the table-d’hote or in 
 their own rooms. A list contains the charge for every article 
 servants, etc. Such hotels forward letteis, and procure in- 
 fonnation of every kind with great regularity. Couriers, 
 interpreters, and return-carriages may also be had there. 
 Among the best hotels in Paris we may mention Meurice's, 
 p8, Ruede Rivoli ; the Hotel du Louvre, Place du Palais 
 Royal (see p. 20)9 ; the Grand Hdtel, Roulevard des Capucines 
 (see p. 213); and as family hotels, the Hdtel Bristol, Place 
 Vendome, Lawson’s Bedford Hotel, rue de I’Arcade, and 
 Hotel des Deux lUondes, rue d’Antin. — See also Directory. 
 
 SERVANTS. — In almost every furnished hotel there are ser- 
 vants who may be hired by the month, fortnight, week, or day. 
 Ihe chaige is 5 or 6 francs a-day, as they bboard themselves. 
 Ihey are called valets-de-place ; they will be found invalu- 
 able to the stranger who desires to visit all the curiosities of 
 the capital, and to examine those numerous localities of Paris 
 celebrated for the historical events extending from the middle 
 ages down to the last revolution. A well-informed guide can 
 stiJl point out highly interesting traces of the olden time, 
 and save the visitor much time and trouble. 
 
 INTERPRETERS. — There are in Paris interpreters of every 
 language, also offices kept by sworn translators. 
 
 COMMISSIONNAIRES. — Porters, under this name, and 
 wearing a numbered brass plate, are found at the corners 
 of all principal streets. Letters or parcels may be safely 
 entrusted to them; their charges vary from 10 to 40 sous 
 RESTAURATEURS AND TRAITEURS.— These rank among 
 
 vO The average number of hotels and furnished houses in Pa- 
 ns, IS 5,000, affording accommodalion tq To,ooo persoiis, 
 
CaP^S. 13 
 
 the most striking establishments of the capital. (1) Nothing is 
 more common than for a great part of the Parisian community, 
 including ladies and persons of the first distinction, to dine 
 occasionally at a restaurateur’s. In fact, Paris nowhere pre- 
 sents a scene more elegant than one of the splendid saloons of a 
 first-rate restaurateur, fitted up in a style of the highest taste 
 and luxury, and crowded with a brilliant company of both 
 sexes. If in summer, the traveller ought to select the Boule- 
 vards, and bespeak a table at one of the windows, thus 
 adding to the pleasures of the palate the sight of one of the 
 most animated panoramas Europe can afford ; for the evening 
 scene of the Boulevards in this fashionable part of Paris, with 
 its well-dressed crowds, seated in groups or promenading, its 
 verdant trees, and its thousand lights, forms a most enchant- 
 ing picture. Restaurants have rooms called cabinets de 
 societe, in which a party may dine in private. Besides 
 the principal restaurateurs, where the dinner is d la carte, 
 there are other houses where dinners are served for a fixed 
 sum, from 2 francs, including wine. In most parts of Paris, 
 a dinner may be had for 40, 35, and even 30 sous. The last 
 of these prices will procure soup, 2 dishes at choice, a dessert, 
 bread, and a modicum of wine. Traiteurs, or petty restaura- 
 teurs, send out dishes, or dinners ready dressed, to order. A 
 family in lodgings, had better bargain with the traiteur for 
 a number of dishes at a certain hour. After dinner Parisians 
 go to a cafe, to take a demi-tasse of coffee, and a petit verve 
 de liqueur, instead of sitting over their wine. For a list of the 
 best dishes, see Pre/bce. The principal restaurants are Trois 
 Freres Provencaux, (Palais Royal,) Maison Doree, and Cafe 
 Anglais, boulevard des Italiens. See Directory. 
 
 CAFES. — The first cafe in Paris was established by an Ar- 
 menian in 1 697, and was greatly frequented. These establish- 
 ments multiplied rapidly under Louis XV., and became cele- 
 brated as the favourite resort of distinguished individuals. At 
 I present they are to be found in every quarter, and justly rank 
 I among the most remarkable features of this capital, being 
 i usually decorated with unrivalled costliness and splendour. It 
 I is difficult to fancy anything more tastefully brilliant than 
 I the coffee-rooms on the western boulevards, and other fashion- 
 
 (I) Formerly privileged persons alone could keep eafing- 
 hoiises in Paris; but in 17 65 a cook prepared a room for re- 
 freshments, placing over the door the following parody of a 
 ; passage in Scripture : ‘■'Venife ad me omnes qui stomacho labo- 
 ratis, et ego restaurabo vos.” This attempt was successful, and 
 since 1789, these establishments have increased every year, and 
 are now about 2,63o in number. 
 
14 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 able parts of the town. When lighted up at night, the effects 
 whether seen from within or without, is perfectly dazzling. 
 Chairs and small tables are placed outside, where both sexes 
 enjoy the cool of the evening, and witness the animated scene 
 around them ; while within you see yourself reflected by mir- 
 rors, remarkable for their size and number ; you find yourself 
 bewildered with the blaze of light, amidst the confused glitter 
 of gilding, painting, and glass. Nearly all these places furnish 
 coffee, cliocolate, tea, ices, liqueurs, &cc., and dejeuners d la 
 fourchette, either hot or cold; but dinners and suppers are 
 generally to be had only at the restaurateurs’. Estami- 
 nets, or smoking rooms, are not of course eligible places for 
 ladies. The finest cafes are the Grand Cafb and Cafe du 
 Grand Hotel, Boulevard dcs Capucines, Cafe Riche and Cafe 
 Cardinal, Boulevard des Italieus. For size and decoration the 
 Cafe Parisien, Boulevard St. Martin, Cafe du Globe, and Cafe 
 du XIXe Siecle, on the Boulevard de Strasbourg, are worth 
 seeing, but the public frequenting them is not select. For a 
 list of other cafes, see Directory. 
 
 READING-ROOMS AND CIRCULATING LIBRARIES.— There 
 are many establishments of this kind in Paris ; but the most 
 eligible and most frequented by Frenchmen and foreign- 
 ers, particularly Englishmen and Americans, is that of Messrs. 
 Galignani and Co., No. 224, rue deRivoli, which is conducted 
 on a most extensive scale. The tables are covered with all the 
 European, Indian, and American periodicals worthy of 
 notice. Ladies also frequent these rooms. The admission is 
 by the day, week, or month. The Circulating Library is 
 conspicuous for its excellent selection and great number of 
 volumes. The subscription is by the week, fortnight or month. 
 
 CERCLES. — These are clubs like those of London; but 
 few foreigners belong to them, owing to their short stay in 
 Paris. The best are ; the French Jockey Club, Boulevard 
 des Capucines; the Cercle des Arts. 22, rue do Choiseul ; 
 Cercle del’ Union, if. Boulevard de la Madeleine; Cercle Agri- 
 cole, 29, quai Voltaire ; the Cercle Imperial, under the presi- 
 dency of Prince Murat, 5, rue dcs Champs Elysees ; the 
 Cercle des Chemins de Fer, 22, rue de la Michodiere ; and 
 Cercle des Deux Mondes, 30, rue Grainmont. Cricket Chib r 
 Office, 3, Hue d Aguesseau, H.E. M. Drouyn de I’Huys, pre- 
 sident Chess-players frequent the Cafe de la Regence, ICJ, 
 Rue St Honore. 
 
 MONETARY SYSTEM. — Accounts are kept in France in 
 francs, each of 10 decimes or loo centimes^ The modern gold 
 coins are pieces of 100 fr., 50 fr., 20 fr., 10 fr., and 5 fr., 
 commonly called “ pieces do cent francs,” “ de cinquante 
 
MONETARY SYSTEM. 1 5 
 
 francs,” “ de vingt francs,” (napoleons,) “ de dix francs,” “ de 
 cinq francs.” The silver coins are 6 fr. (piece de cent sous), 
 2 fr. (piece de quarante sous), 1 fr. (piece de vingt sous,) 
 Yifr. (piece de dix sous), and pieces of 20 centimes. 
 The copper coins are 2 sous, 1 sou, and 2 and 1 
 centime, (t) In the monetary system of France, ( 2 ) 
 the coins, if accurately minted, may serve also as weights. 
 Thus, lofr. in copper (new coinage), 20'0 in standard silver, 
 or 3100 in standard gold, weigh 1 kdogramme; the piece 
 of 1 fr. weighs 5 grammes, and any other piece in the same 
 proportion. The notes issued by the Bank of France are 
 of 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, and 5000 fr., convertible 
 into silver at the Bank, at par, except 2 sous for the bag ; 
 or, at a small charge into silver or gold, at the money- 
 changers’. (3) In reckoning for 25 sous they say 1 fr. 25c.; 
 for 30 sous, 1 fr. 50 c., etc. The gold and silver coins con- 
 tain l-loth alloy ; but small silver coin only contains 0.79 
 of the pure metal. The value of the pound sterling, which is 
 25 fr. at par, is given in the following table ; — 
 
 r (1) All the copper money of France, amounting to . 5 i, 54 i, 096 f., 
 j and weighing 4 , 860,461 Ishos., has been recoined since 4852 . 
 : The new coin contain 95 parts ofcopper, 4 of tin, and i of zinc. 
 
 ( 2 ) Before 1795 accounts were kept in livres, of 20 sous, or 240 
 deniers; the terms livres and francs for many years were used 
 indiscriminately, although 80 of the old livres were worth about 
 81 fr. of the present coin. The double louis was rated at 48 livres ; 
 the simple louis at 24 livres; the large crown-piece, or ecu, at 
 6 ; and the small one, or yietit 6cu, at three livres. There were 
 also pieces of 30 and of 15 sous, of base metal. There are mints 
 at Bordeaux, Lille, Lyons, Marseilles, Rouen, and Strasbourg, 
 all under the authority of the “ Commission des Monnaies.” 
 
 (3) The gold coin in France is now at par. The specie in cir- 
 culation in France in the time of Colbert, in 166 I, was 
 
 600.000. 000 fr. ; in 4708 it was 800,000,000 fr., and in 1754 , 
 
 4.600.000. 000 fr. 
 
 The following is an official statement of the gold and silver 
 coin struck in France from 1795 to i863 : 
 
 Gold. Silver. 
 
 1st Republic. . . . fr. 106 , 237,255 fr. 
 
 1 st Empire . . . 523,024,440 887,830,055 
 
 Louis XVllI. to Louis Philippe 658,164,780 3,004,279,764 ^ 
 
 2d Republic (l848-1 85 l) . 412,873,340 449,809,786 
 
 2 d Empire (l852-1864) 4,420,080,238 506 , 024,584 
 
 Totals: 6,019,142,798 4,954,181,444 
 
 f|The cost of coinage is fixed at 6 fr. 70 c. per kilo, for gold, at 
 I fr. 50 c. for silver, and at 4 fr. 89 c. for copper. 
 
BRITISH CURRENCY REDUCED INTO FRANCS 
 
WEIGHTS, measures, ETC. 17 
 
 i Weights, measures, &c. — Before the first Revolution 
 the poids de marc was the standard weight in France The 
 boisseau was the corn-measure, the pinte the measure for li- 
 quids, the pied, or foot, the unit of length, from which were 
 derived the lieue, or league, and the toise, or fathom. Since 
 1795 the metrical or decimal system has been introduced, 
 and confirmed by a special law, which came into operation 
 on the 1st of January, 1840; but although parties using the 
 old weights and measures are now liable to prosecution, they 
 are stiU pertinaciously adhered to iu several parts of the 
 country. — The ten-millionth part of the spherical distance of 
 the Pole from the Equator is called a metre, and adopted as 
 the unit of length ( 1 ) ; its square and cube are taken as stan- 
 dards of surface, capacity, and sobdity, and the weight of a 
 cube of distilled water, at the temperature of 4° centigrade 
 (39.2° Fahr.), having its side equal to the hundredth part 
 of a metre, is the unit of weight. (2) 
 
 The following tables will be found useful in converting the 
 old or new French weights and measures into English ones, 
 and vice versa. 
 
 SYSTEMATIC NAMES. FRENCH VALUE. ENGLISH VALUE. 
 
 Measures of length. 
 
 Myriamistre. . . io,ooo metres 6.2138 miles. 
 
 Kilometre. . . . i,ooo metres io 93.633 yards. 
 
 5 - 8 lhs of a mile. 
 
 D^camMre. ... lo mMres 10.93633 yards. 
 
 M^tre Fundamental unit of 1.093633 yard, or 
 
 weights and measures. 39,371 inches. 
 
 D^cimfetre. . , . i-ioth of a m^tre 3.937079 inches. 
 
 Centimetre... i-iooth of a metre 0.393708 — 
 
 Millimetre. . . . i-ioooth of a metre. . . , o, 03937 — 
 
 (i) The length of the quadrant of the terrestrial meridian was 
 ascertained by Delambre and Mechain, by measuring an 
 arc of the meridian between the parallels of Dunkirk and Bar- 
 celona. 
 
 ( 2 ) There was also a mixed system between the new and old, 
 jailed the systems usuel, having the metre as the standard, but 
 with binary divisions. As this has also been abolished by law, 
 we need only mention that the toise usuelle (of 2 metres) equal* 
 led 6 % feet English, and the aune 3 feet n% inches English, 
 with their several subdivisions into inches and lines. The bois‘ 
 teau usuel was Ya hectolitre, or 0.35474 bushel English. The .'i- 
 fron was 2 1-19 English pints. Apothecaries used to compound 
 by the systeme usuel, and diamonds were weighed by carats, each 
 jf 2.01 dficigrammes, or 3 1-10 grains, English. The old pound 
 weight of France, still spoken of, but now never used, was 1 lb. 
 
 . oz. 10 dr. English and the quintal mitrique, now in use, is 
 I cwt. 3 qr.s. 24 lb. 8 oz. 
 
 2 
 
18 
 
 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 avSTEMATIC NAMES. 
 
 FRENCH VALUE. 
 Superficial Measures. 
 
 ENGLISH VALUE, 
 
 Hectare 
 
 10,000 square metres. . . 
 
 2.471143 acres. 
 
 Are 
 
 100 — ... 
 
 0.098845 rood. 
 
 Centiare 
 
 1 — ... 
 
 Measures of Capacity. 
 
 1. i 960 33 8C{ yd ( 1 ) 
 
 Kilolitre 
 
 1 cubic metre, or 1000 cu- 
 bic decimetres. 
 
 220.09668 gal. 
 
 Hectolitre 
 
 100 cubic decimetres. . . . 
 
 22.00967 gallons. 
 
 Decalitre 
 
 10 cubic decimetres 
 
 2.20097 — 
 
 Litre 
 
 1 cubic decimetre 
 
 0.220097 gallon, 
 on.760773pint. 
 
 Decilitre 
 
 1-1 oth cubic decimetre. . . 
 Measures of Solidity. 
 
 0.17608 pint. 
 
 St^re ........ 
 
 
 35.31658 c. feet. 
 
 D^cist^ro 
 
 1-1 oth cubic metre 
 
 Weights. 
 
 3.53166 c. feet. 
 
 Millier 
 
 1000 Ml., or 1 French ton. 
 
 19.7 cwt. 
 
 Ouintal 
 
 100 kilogrammes 
 
 1.97 cwt. 
 
 Kilogramme. . . . 
 
 1,000 grammes; weight of 1 
 cubic decimetre of water. 
 
 2.67 93 lb. troy 
 or 2.2046 lb. 
 avoirdupois. 
 
 Hectogramme . . . 
 
 100 grammes 
 
 3.2 ounces troy. 
 
 Decagramme. . . . 
 
 10 grammes 
 
 6.43 penny- 
 
 weights troy. 
 
 Graihme 
 
 , Weight of 1 cubic centi- 
 metre of water. 
 
 15.433 gr. troy. 
 
 Decigramme. . . . 
 
 . 1-1 oth of gramme 
 
 1.54 33 gr. troy. 
 
 Centigramme. . . 
 
 . i-iooth of gramme. . . . 
 
 o.i5433gr. troy. 
 
 Milligramme. . . - 
 
 , 1 - 1 , 000 th of gramme. . . 
 
 o.oi 544gr. troy. 
 
 It may assist the memory to observe that the terms for 
 multiplying are Greek, and those for dividing, Latin. 
 
 VALUE OF OLD FRENCH WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 
 
 1 livre : i marcs; 16 oz. ; 128 gros; 9216 grains; 0,4895 kilog.; 
 7555 gr. English. 
 
 t muid : 12 sellers; 144 boisseaux ; 18.72 hectolitres; 53.124 
 English bushels. 
 
 1 muid : i44 quarts; 288 pintes; 268.128 litres; 70.8192 English 
 gallons. 
 
 4 foot : 12 inches; 144 lines; 1728 points; 0.32484 metres; 
 12.7893 inches Engiish; 
 
 1 aune de Paris : 1.1888 mfstre; 46.85 Eng. inches. 
 
 4 toise : 6 French feet; 1.949 m&tre; 6.395 Eng. feet. 
 
 4 lieue : 2 miles Fr.; 2000 toises; 2 miles, 1 furlong, 28 pol. Eng- 
 
 gj' ( 1 ) The square yard is 0.836097 of a square mMre. 
 
WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 
 
 ENGLISH TROY WEIGHT IN GRAMMES. 
 
 19 
 
 Grain (i-24th of pennyweight) 
 Pennyweight {i- 2 oth of ounce) 
 Ounce (i-i 2 lh of pound troy). 
 Imperial p'ound troy. 
 
 . 0.065 gramme. 
 
 1.555 — 
 
 . 31.103 grammes. 
 
 0.373238 kilogramme. 
 
 FRENCH FEET INTO ENGLISH FEET AND INCHES, (l) 
 
 Fr. 
 
 Inch. 
 
 Eng.. 
 
 Inch.. 
 
 Fr. 
 
 Feet 
 
 English 
 Feet, Inch. 
 
 Fr. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 English 
 Feet. Inches. 
 
 Fr. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 English 
 Feet. Inches. 
 
 1 
 
 l.OTT 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 0.79 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 7.89 
 
 100 
 
 106 
 
 6.91 
 
 2 
 
 2.13 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 1.58 
 
 20 
 
 21 
 
 3.78 
 
 200 
 
 213 
 
 1.84 
 
 3 
 
 3.2(1) 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 2.37 
 
 30 
 
 31 
 
 1 1.68 
 
 300 
 
 319 
 
 8.76 
 
 4 
 
 4.2(6 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 3.16 
 
 40 
 
 42 
 
 7.57 
 
 400 
 
 426 
 
 3.68 
 
 5 
 
 5.3(3 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 3.95 
 
 50 
 
 53 
 
 3.46 
 
 500 
 
 532 
 
 10.59 
 
 6 
 
 6.4(0 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 4.74 
 
 60 
 
 63 
 
 11.35 
 
 700 
 
 746 
 
 0.42 
 
 7 
 
 7.4(6 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 5.52 
 
 70 
 
 74 
 
 7.24 
 
 900 
 
 959 
 
 2.27 
 
 9 
 
 9.5!9 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 6.31 
 
 80 
 
 85 
 
 3.14 
 
 1,000 
 
 1,065 
 
 9.19 
 
 11 
 
 11.72 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 7.10 
 
 90 
 
 95 
 
 1 1.03 
 
 2,000 
 
 2,131 
 
 6.36 
 
 FRIENCH METRES INTO ENGLISH FEET AND INCHES. 
 
 M6t. F. 
 
 Incch.. 
 
 Mer. F. 
 
 Inch. 
 
 Met. 
 
 F. Inch. 
 
 Met. 
 
 Feet. Inch. 
 
 0.01 0 
 
 0.3.9 4 
 
 0.75 2 
 
 4.532 
 
 10 
 
 32 9.708 
 
 500 
 
 1640 5 395 
 
 0.05 0 
 
 1.9>7l0 
 
 1 3 
 
 3.371 
 
 20 
 
 65 7.416 
 
 1000* 
 
 3280 10.790 
 
 0.10 0 
 
 3.9137 
 
 2 6 
 
 6.741 
 
 30 
 
 98 5.124 
 
 1609.31 
 
 5280 1 mile. 
 
 0.20 0 
 
 7.8.7 4 
 
 3 9 
 
 10.1 12 
 
 40 
 
 131 2.832 
 
 4000’ 
 
 13123 7.160 
 
 0.25 0 
 
 9.8;4 4 
 
 4 13 
 
 1.483 
 
 50 
 
 164 0.539 
 
 5000 
 
 16404 5.950 
 
 0.50 1 
 
 6.6;8» 
 
 5 16 
 
 4.854 
 
 100 
 
 328 1.079 
 
 10000® 
 
 32808 11.900 
 
 {*) One kLlomJitre. 
 
 (*) One league. (®) 
 
 One myriamMre. 
 
 FRENCH 
 
 KlT.OMfeTRES 
 
 AND MYRIAMETRES INTO ENGLISH MILES, &C. 
 
 Kilom. Engliisih Miles. Furlongs. Yds. 
 
 Kilom. English Miles. 
 
 Furlongs. Yds. 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 
 4 
 
 213 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 7 164 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 206 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 4 157 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 199 
 
 imyria 
 
 . 6 
 
 1 156 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 
 3 
 
 192 
 
 2 — 
 
 12 
 
 3 92 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 185 
 
 3 — 
 
 18 
 
 5 10 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 
 5 
 
 178 
 
 4 — 
 
 24 
 
 6 160 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 171 
 
 5 — 
 
 31 
 
 0 90 
 
 FRENCH LIEGES DE POSTE INTO ENGLISH MILES AND YARDS. 
 
 L. Mis. Tds. 
 
 1 2 743-061 
 
 2 4 1486.122 
 
 3 7 469.1 83 
 
 4 9 12(2.244 
 
 5 12 195.305 
 
 L. Mis. Yds. 
 
 6 14 938.366 
 
 7 16 1681.427 
 
 8 19 664.488 
 
 9 21 1407.549 
 
 10 24 390.610 
 
 L. 
 
 Mis. 
 
 Yds. 
 
 L. Mis. 
 
 Yds. 
 
 20 
 
 48 
 
 781.221 
 
 70 
 
 169 
 
 974.275 
 
 30 
 
 72 
 
 1171.832 
 
 80 
 
 193 
 
 1364.886 
 
 40 
 
 96 
 
 1562.443 
 
 90 
 
 217 
 
 1755.496 
 
 50 
 
 121 
 
 193.053 
 
 100 
 
 242 
 
 386.107 
 
 60 
 
 145 
 
 583.664 
 
 200 
 
 484 
 
 772.214 
 
 (i) To reduce French toises into English feel and inches, re- 
 duce the toises into French feel at 6 feet per toise, and then ap- 
 ply the albove table. An aune de Paris is 3.658 French feet, 3 
 feet 10 . 6 S inches English, and i.i 88 French metres. A m^tre 
 is 3.0784 French feet. 
 
20 
 
 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 In the following six tables the tens, hundreds, &c., are 
 found by carrying the decimal point one place further to the 
 right for the tens, two for the hundreds, &c. The intermediate 
 numbers are found by addition. Thus 356 hectolitres will be 
 found to amount to 979.4296 bushels. 
 
 FRENCH KILOGRAMMES INTO ENGLISH POUNDS {Avoirdupois). 
 
 Kilog. Eng. pds. 
 
 Kilog. Eng. pds. 
 
 Kilog. 
 
 Eng. pds. 
 
 1 2.2046 
 
 4 
 
 8.8184 
 
 7 
 
 15.4322 
 
 2 4.4092 
 
 5 
 
 11.0230 
 
 8 
 
 17.6368 
 
 3 6.6138 
 
 6 
 
 13.2276 
 
 9 
 
 19.8414 
 
 Eng. pds. 
 
 22.0464 
 
 220.4642 
 
 2204.6428 
 
 FRENCH POUNDS INTO ENGLISH POUNDS (Avoirdupois). 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 Fr. Eng 
 
 1 1.0792 
 
 2 2.1583 
 
 3 3.2375 
 
 Lit. Gall. 
 
 1 0.2201 
 
 2 0.4402 
 
 3 0.6603 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 Fr. Eng. 
 
 4 4.3167 
 
 5 5.3958 
 
 6 6.4750 
 
 FRENCH LITRES 
 Lit. Gall. 
 
 4 0.8804 
 
 5 1.1005 
 
 6 1.3206 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 Fr. Eng. 
 
 7 7.5541 
 
 8 8.6333 
 
 9 9.7125 
 
 INTO ENGLISH 
 Lit. Gall. 
 
 7 1.5407 
 
 8 1.7608 
 
 9 1.9809 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 Fr. Eng. 
 
 10 10.7716 
 
 100 107.7164 
 
 1,000 1077.1644 
 
 GALLONS. 
 
 Lit. Gall. 
 
 10 2.2010 
 
 100 22.0097 
 
 1,000 220.0967 
 
 FRENCH HECTOLITRES INTO ENGLISH BUSHELS. 
 
 Bush. 
 
 Hect. 
 
 Bush. 
 
 Hect. 
 
 Bush. 
 
 Hect. 
 
 Bush. 
 
 2.7512 
 
 4 
 
 11.0048 
 
 7 
 
 19.2584 
 
 10 
 
 27.5120 
 
 5.5024 
 
 5 
 
 13 7560 
 
 8 
 
 22.0097 
 
 100 
 
 275.1208 
 
 8.2536 
 
 6 
 
 16.5072 
 
 9 
 
 24.7609 
 
 1,000 
 
 2751.2085 
 
 FRENCH ARPENS INTO ENGLISH ACRES. 
 
 Arp. 
 
 Acres. 
 
 Arp. 
 
 Acres. 
 
 Arp. 
 
 Acres. 
 
 Arp. 
 
 Acres. 
 
 t 
 
 1.0430 
 
 4 
 
 4.1721 
 
 7 
 
 7.3012 
 
 10 
 
 10.4303 
 
 2 
 
 2.0861 
 
 5 
 
 5.2151 
 
 8 
 
 8.3442 
 
 100 
 
 104.3026 
 
 3 
 
 3.1291 
 
 6 
 
 6.2581 
 
 9 
 
 9.3872 
 
 1,000 
 
 1043.0262 
 
 FRENCH HECTARES INTO ENGLISH ACRES. 
 
 Hect. 
 
 Acres. 
 
 Hect. 
 
 Acres. 
 
 Hect. Acres. 
 
 Hect. 
 
 Acres. 
 
 1 
 
 2.4711 
 
 4 
 
 9.8846 
 
 7 17.2980 
 
 10 
 
 24.7114 
 
 2 
 
 4.9423 
 
 5 
 
 12.3557 
 
 8 19.7691 
 
 100 
 
 247.1143 
 
 3 
 
 7.4134 
 
 6 
 
 14.8268 
 
 9 22.2403 
 
 1,000 
 
 2471.1430 
 
 In the French and English barometrical scales, 
 
 704 millimetres equal 26 Fr. inches or 27.7 Eng. in. nearly. 
 
 731 
 
 — 
 
 27 
 
 — 
 
 28.8 
 
 756 
 
 — 
 
 28 
 
 — 
 
 29.8 
 
 779 
 
 — 
 
 29 
 
 — 
 
 30.7 
 
 In the thermometrical scales, the freezing point, marked 32° in 
 Fahrenheit’s scale, is marked 0° in the Centigrade, or French 
 
ENGLISH DUTIES. 21 
 
 scale, and in Reaumur’s. The boiling point, which is 212° in 
 Fahrenheit’s, is 100 ° in the Centigrade, and 80° in Reaumur’s 
 scale. The range between Fahrenheit’s freezing and boiling 
 points being therefore 180°, it follows that 5° Centigrade= 
 [9° Fahrenheit=4° Reaumur. 
 
 A number of Centigrade or Reaumur’s degrees having by 
 [this rule been changed into Fahrenheit’s, 32° must be added 
 to the result for all temperatures above freezing point ; the 
 iresult must be subtracted from 32°, for those below. 
 
 CENTIGRADE AND REAUMUR’S THERMOMETRIC SCALES TURNED INTO 
 FAHRENHEIT’S. 
 
 c . 
 
 R. 
 
 F 
 
 
 c . 
 
 R. 
 
 F . 
 
 C . 
 
 R. 
 
 F . 
 
 c . 
 
 R. 
 
 F . 
 
 100 
 
 80.0 
 
 212 
 
 .0 
 
 69 
 
 55.2 
 
 156.2 
 
 38 
 
 30.4 
 
 100.4 
 
 7 
 
 5.6 
 
 44.6 
 
 99 
 
 79.2 
 
 210 
 
 .2 
 
 68 
 
 54.4 
 
 154.4 
 
 37 
 
 29.6 
 
 98.6 
 
 6 
 
 4.8 
 
 42.8 
 
 98 
 
 78.4 
 
 208 
 
 .4 
 
 67 
 
 53.6 
 
 152.6 
 
 36 
 
 28.8 
 
 96.8 
 
 5 
 
 4.0 
 
 41.0 
 
 97 
 
 77.6 
 
 206 
 
 .6 
 
 66 
 
 52.8 
 
 150.8 
 
 35 
 
 28.0 
 
 95.0 
 
 4 
 
 3.2 
 
 39.2 
 
 96 
 
 76.8 
 
 204 
 
 .8 
 
 65 
 
 52.0 
 
 149.0 
 
 34 
 
 27.2 
 
 93.2 
 
 3 
 
 2.4 
 
 37.4 
 
 95 
 
 76.0 
 
 203 
 
 .0 
 
 64 
 
 51.2 
 
 147.2 
 
 33 
 
 26.4 
 
 91.4 
 
 2 
 
 1.6 
 
 35.6 
 
 94 
 
 75.2 
 
 201 
 
 .2 
 
 63 
 
 50.4 
 
 145.4 
 
 32 
 
 25.6 
 
 89.6 
 
 1 
 
 0.8 
 
 33.8 
 
 93 
 
 74.4 
 
 199 
 
 .4 
 
 62 
 
 49.6 
 
 143.6 
 
 31 
 
 24.8 
 
 87.8 
 
 0 
 
 0.0 
 
 32.0 
 
 92 
 
 73.6 
 
 197 
 
 .6 
 
 61 
 
 48.8 
 
 141.8 
 
 30 
 
 24.0 
 
 86.0 
 
 — 1 
 
 — 0.8 
 
 30.2 
 
 91 
 
 72.8 
 
 195 
 
 .8 
 
 60 
 
 48.0 
 
 140.0 
 
 29 
 
 23.2 
 
 84.2 
 
 — 2 
 
 — 1.6 
 
 28.4 
 
 90 
 
 72.0 
 
 194 
 
 .0 
 
 59 
 
 47.2 
 
 138.2 
 
 28 
 
 22.4 
 
 82.4 
 
 — 3 
 
 — 2.4 
 
 26.6 
 
 89 
 
 71.2 
 
 192 
 
 .2 
 
 58 
 
 46.4 
 
 136.4 
 
 27 
 
 21.6 
 
 80.6 
 
 — 4 
 
 — 3.2 
 
 24.8 
 
 88 
 
 70.4 
 
 190 
 
 4 
 
 57 
 
 45.6 
 
 134.6 
 
 26 
 
 20.8 
 
 78.8 
 
 — 5 
 
 — 4.0 
 
 23.0 
 
 87 
 
 69.6 
 
 188 
 
 6 
 
 56 
 
 44.8 
 
 132.8 
 
 25 
 
 20.0 
 
 77.0 
 
 — 6 
 
 — 4.8 
 
 21.2 
 
 86 
 
 68.8 
 
 186 
 
 8 
 
 55 
 
 44.0 
 
 131.0 
 
 24 
 
 19.2 
 
 75.2 
 
 — 7 
 
 — 5.6 
 
 19.4 
 
 85 
 
 68.0 
 
 185 
 
 0 
 
 54 
 
 43.2 
 
 129.2 
 
 23 
 
 18.4 
 
 73.4 
 
 — 8 
 
 — 6.4 
 
 17.6 
 
 84 
 
 67.2 
 
 183 
 
 2 
 
 53 
 
 42.4 
 
 127.4 
 
 22 
 
 17.6 
 
 71.6 
 
 — 9 
 
 — 7.2 
 
 15.8 
 
 83 
 
 66.4 
 
 181 
 
 4 
 
 52 
 
 41.6 
 
 125.6 
 
 21 
 
 16.8 
 
 69.8 
 
 — 10 
 
 — 8.0 
 
 14.0 
 
 82 
 
 65.6 
 
 179 
 
 6 
 
 51 
 
 40.8 
 
 123.8 
 
 20 
 
 16.0 
 
 68.0 
 
 — 11 
 
 — 8.8 
 
 12.2 
 
 81 
 
 64.8 
 
 177 . 
 
 8 
 
 50 
 
 40.0 
 
 122.0 
 
 19 
 
 15.2 
 
 66.2 
 
 — 12 
 
 — 9.6 
 
 10.4 
 
 80 
 
 64.0 
 
 176 
 
 0 
 
 49 
 
 39.2 
 
 120.2 
 
 18 
 
 14.4 
 
 64.4 
 
 — 13 
 
 — 10.4 
 
 8.6 
 
 79 
 
 63.2 
 
 174 . 
 
 2 
 
 48 
 
 38.4 
 
 118-4 
 
 17 
 
 13.6 
 
 62.6 
 
 — 14 
 
 — 11.2 
 
 6.8 
 
 '78 
 
 62.4 
 
 172 . 
 
 4 
 
 47 
 
 37.6 
 
 116.6 
 
 16 
 
 12.8 
 
 60.8 
 
 — 15 
 
 — 12.0 
 
 5.0 
 
 '77 
 
 61.6 
 
 170 . 
 
 6 
 
 46 
 
 36.8 
 
 114.8 
 
 15 
 
 12.0 
 
 59.0 
 
 — 16 
 
 — 12.8 
 
 3.2 
 
 76 
 
 60.8 
 
 168 . 
 
 8 
 
 45 
 
 36.0 
 
 113.0 
 
 14 
 
 11.2 
 
 57.2 
 
 — 17 
 
 — 13.6 
 
 1.4 
 
 75 
 
 60.0 
 
 167 . 
 
 0 
 
 44 
 
 35.2 
 
 111.2 
 
 13 
 
 10.4 
 
 55.4 
 
 — 18 
 
 — 14.4 
 
 0.4 
 
 74 
 
 59.2 
 
 165 . 
 
 2 
 
 43 
 
 34.4 
 
 109.4 
 
 12 
 
 9.6 
 
 53.6 
 
 —19 
 
 — 15.2 
 
 — 2.2 
 
 73 
 
 58.4 
 
 163 . 
 
 4 
 
 42 
 
 33.6 
 
 107.6 
 
 11 
 
 8.8 
 
 51.8 
 
 —20 
 
 — 16.0 
 
 — 4.0 
 
 72 
 
 57.6 
 
 161 . 
 
 6 
 
 41 
 
 32.8 
 
 105.8 
 
 10 
 
 8.0 
 
 50.0 
 
 —21 
 
 — 16.8 
 
 — 5.8 
 
 71 
 
 56.8 
 
 159 . 
 
 8 
 
 40 
 
 32.0 
 
 104.0 
 
 9 
 
 7.2 
 
 48.2 
 
 — 22 
 
 — 17.6 
 
 — 7.6 
 
 70 
 
 56.0 
 
 158 . 
 
 0 
 
 39 
 
 31.2 
 
 102.2 
 
 8 
 
 6.4 
 
 46.4 
 
 —23 
 
 — 18.4 
 
 — 9.4 
 
 DUTIES ON ARTICLES IMPORTED INTO ENGLAND.— 
 Regulations as to Passengers’ Luggage As soon as all 
 he luggage is landed, passengers are called in according to 
 he list forwarded by the captain. Passengers must see that 
 heir names are properly inserted in the list. A passenger 
 
GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 22 
 
 having only a small carpet bag is allowed to take it on shore 
 after examination by the officers who come on board. All 
 merchandize brought with luggage is liable to seizure unless 
 duly reported as such by the captain of the vessel . — Caution : [ 
 If any person, on being questioned by an officer, whether he | 
 or she has any foreign goods upon his or her person, or in his 
 or her possession, deny the same, and any be discovered, such 
 shall be forfeited, and such person forfeit treble the value of such ' 
 goods. False declarations subject parties to a fine of £100. 
 Under the present free trade, scarcely anything that is likely to 
 form part of a tourist’s luggage is liable to duty. The only t 
 duties worth recording (and to which, when marked with an ti 
 asterisk, Five per cent, must be added) are the following : — | 
 
 Roolis printed prior to i so < , free. 
 
 — French or German, printed in 
 or since isoi, free. 
 
 — admitted under treaties of in- 
 ternational copyright, or if of 
 or from any British posses- 
 sion, free. 
 
 Any books wlierein tbe copyright 
 shall bn subsisting, first printed in 
 tiie United Kingdom, and reprinted 
 in any otlier country, are pro 
 liibited to be imported into tbe Bri- 
 tisli possessions, provided tlie pro- 
 prietor of such copyriglit sliail have 
 given due notice lo Uie Customs. 
 
 Foreign books and maps liavingonce 
 paid duty, or been purchased in Eng- 
 land, arc delivered free, on a declara- 
 tion being made. 
 
 Brandy. See Spirits. 
 
 Cards, playing, per dozen 
 packs, 3s. 9d. 
 
 Cigars, see Tobacco. 
 
 Clocks and watches, free. 
 
 — or watches of any melal, im- 
 pressed with any mark or 
 stamp, appearing to he or to 
 represent any legal British 
 assay, mark, or stamp, -orpur- 
 porling, By any mark or ap- 
 pearance, to he the manufac- 
 ture of the United Kingdom, 
 prohiliiled. 
 
 Cologne-water, each Bask (3o 
 not more than a gallon), Gd. 
 Confectionary of sugar, hon- 
 hons, &c., the Ih., id. 
 Liciueurs. See Spirits. 
 
 Paper hangings, painted or 
 stained paper or (lock-paper, 
 free. 
 
 — Letter paper, free. 
 
 Pictures, viz. ; Oil Paintings and 
 Photographs, free. 
 
 Plate of gold, the oz., troy, I7S. 
 
 — of silver, do., is. Cd. 
 
 — battered, free. 
 
 Plums, dried, 7s. perewt. 
 
 Prints and drawings, plain or 
 coloured, free. 
 
 — admitted under treaties of 
 international copyright, free- 
 
 Spirits, or strong waters, not 
 being sweetened or mixed 
 with any article, so that the 
 degree of strengih thereof 
 cannot be ascertained by 
 Sykes’s Hydrometer, for every 
 gallon of the sti ength of prool 
 by such Hydrometer, and sc 
 in proportion for any greatei 
 or less strength of proof, and 
 for any greater or less quan- 
 tity than a gallon, viz.: — 
 
 Brandy, per gal. o lo 
 Geneva, clo., . o lo 
 Bum, cd' and from 
 iiny foreign coun- 
 try being that of its 
 production . . 0 lO 
 
 — from any other 
 country . . o 10 
 
 Tafia, of and from 
 any colony in 
 France . . . 0 lo 
 
 Unenumerated . o lo 
 
FRENCH DUTIES. 23 
 
 Other spirits, being sweetened 
 or mixed so that the degree 
 of strength cannot he ascer- 
 tained. as aforesaid, per gal., 
 
 1 4S. 
 
 ■— perfumed, to be used as per- 
 fumery only, per gal., i4s. 
 Spirits I'pmaiiisof passc'iigers’ stores, 
 unexi)cndcd on tlie voyage, are admit- 
 ted wlieii less ttian a [dn't; or half 
 a pint of eau de Cologne, or other cor- 
 dial water, or any medicated or per- 
 fumed spirits or liqueurs. 
 
 Tea, per lb. . .006 
 
 ‘Tobacco unmanufac- 
 tured, per lb. .030 
 
 — snuff, per lb. , o 4 6 
 
 — cigars, per lb. .0 5 o 
 
 Duties are received upon less than 
 
 31b. of cigars, hut any greater quantity 
 requires a petition to the Board of 
 Customs to he admitted. 
 
 Varnish, conlaining any quan- 
 tity of wine or spirits, 12S. 
 per gallon. 
 
 Wine containing 4 5 per cent, 
 and upwards of proof spirit, 
 as verified by Sykes’s Hydro- 
 meter, is deemed to be mixed 
 spirits, and charged withduty 
 as such. 
 
 — do., making 26 deg. 0 i o 
 
 — do., making 42 deg. o 2 6 
 
 — ifimported in bottles, 
 and containing less 
 
 than 4 2 deg. . .026 
 
 An additional duty of 3d. per 
 gallon for every degree of 
 strength beyond 42 deg. 
 
 DUTIES ON Articles imported from England into 
 France. — E.xtracted from the new official tariff : 
 
 Piate and jewellery for the use of travellers, free, if nol 
 exceeding the weight of 5 hectogrammes. Parties going to 
 reside in France, and wisliing to take their furniture, linen, 
 plate, &c., must apply to the Director-General, at Paris, sending 
 a statement of the articles, and, if admitted, generally pay 10 
 per cent, on the value. Numerous other articles, lately abso- 
 lutely prohibited, even when a part of passengers’ luggage, 
 are now admitted, and are charged with a duty of 30 to 33 
 per cent. The same favour is extended to portions, or whole 
 pieces which liave not or have scarcely been made up. In 
 those cases, tlie condition and supposed intentions of such passen- 
 gers as may have brought them are taken into consideration. 
 According to the Customs’ regulations, every thing that is 
 new, or not used, either made or not made up, must be de- 
 clared before the examination of the luggage, under penalties 
 of seizure and fine. But tlie officers generally tax those things 
 not duly declared, or give them back for re-exportation. 
 
 The regulations as to passengers’ luggage are much the same 
 as on landing in England. 
 
 Beer, ale, or porter, 2 fr. 4oc. the 
 heclolilve (about too bottles), 
 in addition to Ihe internal tax. 
 
 Books, ill dead or foreign lan- 
 guages printed in England, 
 free. 
 
 Books in French, printed in 
 England, free. 
 
 Boots and shoes, lo percent, ad 
 valorem. 
 
 Boxes, carved wood and ivory, 
 10 per cent, ad valorem. 
 Bronze, manufactured, 20 fr. 
 per 100 kil. 
 
 Calicoes, bleached, i5 per cent, 
 i ad valorem per i Oo kil. 
 
24 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 — do., unbleached, 15 do. 
 
 — do., dyed, 25 cent, above I 
 per cent. do. 
 
 Cards, 1 5 per cent, ad valorem 
 besides 48 cent, for each pack 
 
 Carpets, 32 fr. per.ioo kilog. 
 
 Carriages, to per cent, ad val. 
 
 Cheese, hard, lofr. per 100 kil 
 
 Clocks, 5 per cent, ad valorem. 
 
 Coal, 1 fr. 20 c. per ton. 
 
 Cotton manufactures. See Cali- 
 coes. 
 
 Earthenware, line, 20 per cent 
 ad val. 
 
 Embroidery, 10 per cent, ad 
 valorem. 
 
 Engravings,lithographed prints, 
 maps, charts, &c., free. 
 
 Frames, (picture,) 10 per cent. 
 
 Furniture of all sorts, 1 Oper cent. 
 
 Glass, for domestic use, 10 per 
 cent, ad val. 
 
 Gloves, 5 per cent, ad val. 
 
 Horses, 25 fr. (£1). 
 
 — Colts, 15 fr. (12s.) 
 
 Hardware, iron, for domestic 
 
 use, i 4 fr. per 100 kil. 
 
 — do., cutlery, 20 per cent, ad 
 valorem. 
 
 — do., copper, brass, or bronze, 
 
 20 fr. per lOo kil. 
 
 Jewels, set in gold, 5 fr. ( 4 s.) 
 per ifil. 
 
 Lace, cotton or linen, 5 per cent 
 
 Lace, silk, free. 
 
 Linen, for personal or house- 
 hold use, free, unless in large 
 quantity; in such case a per- 
 mit must be obtained from 
 the Director of the Customs. 
 
 Liquors 150 fr. (£e) per hecto- 
 litre (100 bottles). 
 
 Musical instruments, lopercent, 
 
 ad val. 
 
 Optical and mathematical in- 
 struments, 10 per cent, ad 
 valorem. 
 
 Paper, of all sorts, 8 fr. per 100 
 kil. 
 
 Plate, new or used, 5 fr. ( 4 s.) per 
 kil. 
 
 Plated ware, 1 fr. per kil. 
 
 Porcelain, 10 per cent, ad val. 
 
 Silk goods, all silk, free. 
 
 — figured, or brocaded, 10 per 
 cent, ad valorem. 
 
 ditto, with gold and silver, 
 12 fr. ( 9 s. 8 d ) per kil. 
 
 — mixed with thread, 3 fr. 
 per kil. 
 
 Skins, varnished or morocco, 
 80 fr. per loo kil. 
 
 — otherwise prepared, 10 fr. 
 per 100 kil. 
 
 Steam-engines, for machinery, 
 10 fr. per <oo kil. 
 
 — for locomotives. Is fr. per 
 100 kil. 
 
 — for ships, 20 fr. per do. 
 
 Tea, from China, imported in 
 French bottoms, 40 c. per 
 kilog. 
 
 — otherwise, 4 fr. (lod.) per 
 kilog. 
 
 Wine, by sea, 30 cent, per hec- 
 tolitre, (100 bottles.) 
 
 —sherry, madeira, malaga, &c., 
 according to the quantity of 
 proof spirit that it contains. 
 
 Woollens, 15 percent, ad val. 
 
GEOLOGIC A.L CONSTITUTION. 25 
 
 The longest day is 16 hrs. 7 min., and the shortest 8 hrs. 
 10 min. Its distance from the following capitals is : — 
 
 From. 
 
 Hours. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 From. 
 
 Hours. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Amsterdam. 
 
 . 16 
 
 298 
 
 Madrid. . . . 
 
 . 72 
 
 775 
 
 Berlin. . . . 
 
 
 593 
 
 Milan. . . . 
 
 . 47 
 
 518 
 
 Brussels. - . 
 
 . 6 
 
 189 
 
 Munich . . . 
 
 . 36 
 
 460 
 
 Constantinople. 
 
 . 288 
 
 1574 
 
 Naples. . . . 
 
 
 1148 
 
 Dresden. . . 
 
 . 34 
 
 630 
 
 Rome. . . . 
 
 . 96 
 
 925 
 
 Frankfort. . . 
 
 . 18 
 
 339 
 
 Stockholm . . 
 
 . 96 
 
 1141 
 
 Geneva. . . 
 
 . 28 
 
 315 
 
 St. Petersburg. 
 
 . 107 
 
 1425 
 
 Hamburg. . . 
 
 . 31 
 
 535 
 
 Turin .... 
 
 
 438 
 
 Lisbon. . . . 
 
 
 1104 
 
 Venice. . . . 
 
 
 593 
 
 London . . . 
 
 . 11 
 
 254 
 
 Vienna . . . 
 
 . 60 
 
 678 
 
 The circumference of Paris which, since the 1st of January, 
 I860, extends to the fortifications, is 33,678 metres, (of 
 which 9,405 are on the left bank) or 21 miles; its area is 
 78,020,000 square metres, or 19,271 acres. It measures 
 8,900 m^res, or 9,700 yards, from North to South, and 
 11,300 metres, or 12,317 yards, from East to West. (1) 
 
 CLIMATE. — The maximum average heat is 34° Centigrade; 
 in 1802 it rose to 37°. The average maximum of cold is 9° 
 below zero; in 1795 it fell to 22°. The mean temperature is 
 i3%° above zero. The greatest height of the barometer is 28Ya 
 inches, the least 27 *4 inches, and the mean 28 inches. The 
 average quantity of rain per annum is 20% cubic inches per 
 square inch. The prevailing winds are S.W. and N.E. The 
 climate is variable, but not unfavourable to health ; snow does 
 not be long, and fogs are not frequent. 
 
 GEOLOGICAL CONSTITUTION.— The city lies in a vast 
 plain, 60 metres above the level of the sea, and watered by 
 the Seine. The Paris basin, which has the great chalk forma- 
 tion for its lowest stratum exposed by natural denudations, 
 comprises the following geological beds in an ascending order : 
 — plastic clay ; marine limestone {calcaire grassier, budding- 
 stone) ; siliceous limestone (fresh- water) ; gypseous strata alter- 
 nating with marls, full of fossil remains and freshwater sheds ; 
 sands; mill-stone beds; and gravel. Two of the strata of 
 the general series are famous in commerce — one for fmaiishing 
 the stone of which Paris is built, the other for the line gypsum, 
 from which the Plaster of Paris is made. ( 2 ) This plain, though 
 not barren, is not remarkable for an exuberant fertUity ; the 
 manure, however, furnished by the capital suppbes any natural 
 
 (i) The surface of the whole department of the Seine cotn- 
 prises 47,000 hectares. 
 
 ( 2 j See Cuyier, and G. Cuvier and BrongniarU 
 
26 GENEUAL INFORMATION. 
 
 deficiency of the soil, and tlie lighter species of grain, vegetables, 
 fruit trees, and vines, flourish herein perfection. (1) 
 
 RIVERS. — The Seine, which traverses the capital from S.E. 
 to N.W^, rises in the forest of Chauceaux, 2 leagues Troin sC 
 Seine, Tn'The department of the Cote-d’Or. It receives, besides 
 smaller streams, the waters of the Yonne, the Aube, and the 
 Marne, before it enters Paris; and beyond it after collecting 
 the tributary streams of the Oise, the Eure, and other smaller 
 rivers, falls into the ocean between Havre and Ilonfleur. The 
 direct distance from its sourceloTts mouth isTo Ie^ues. In 
 the interior of Paris its length is about 2 leagues. Its breadth 
 at the Pont d’Austerlitz is about 1 66 mMres, at the Pont Neuf 
 263 metres, and at the Pont d’lena 136 metres. The mean 
 velocity of the water is 20 inches per second. In summer 
 the Seine is very low, and often fordable ; during the winter 
 it rises high, and flows with much impetuosity. When the 
 river rises more than 6 metres above its bed, parts of the 
 town and adjacent country are liable to be inundated. 
 
 The Seine communicates with the Loire by the canals of 
 Briare and Orleans; with the Saone by the canal de Bour- 
 gogne; and with the Somme and the Scheldt by the canal of St. 
 Quentin. Modern improvements in ship-building now enable 
 sea-going steamers to reach the ports of the Seine at Paris. The 
 navigation is impeded when the waters are unusually low or 
 high,, or when the thermometer falls to 1 o" below zero, at which 
 temperature the river freezes. In its course through Paris 
 the Seine now forms two islands. The lie St. Louis, about 
 1,800 feet long , has been built on since the time of Louis XIII. 
 The other, the original seat of Paris, is still called the He de 
 la Cite; it formerly terminated at the rue de Harlay, but was 
 enlarged under Henry IV., by annexing two small islands to it. 
 
 The little stream of the Bievre, or the Gobelins, as it is 
 sometimes called, rises between Bouriers and Guyencourt, near 
 Versailles, and, after a course of about 8 leagues, falls into the 
 Seine above the Jardin des Plantes; it is not navigable, nor 
 is its water wholesome to drink. Several mills are vvorked by 
 it, and it is excellent for dyeing and tanning ; it also serves as 
 a city drain, and has its bed lined with masonry. 
 
 (t) The last official relurns of Hie area, cultivation, &c., of 
 the department of Hie Seine are as follows : — area, 24 square 
 leagues. Arable land, 72,558 acres; meadow land, 3,8ii acres; 
 vineyards, 4,876 acres; woods, 3,344 acres; waste lands, 6i5 
 acres; forest land, 5,663 acres; roads and public ways, o,543 
 acres (their length is iso miles); liouscs, 47 , 8 o 4 ; mills, 7 ?; 
 manufactories, 45o; proprietors, 67,918. The annual cost of 
 keeping the roads of the department in repair is about 350 , oo fr. 
 The value of land in all France is 83,7 l 4 ,ooo,ocofr. 
 
CANALS. 27 
 
 CANALS —The canals on the north of Paris are all branches 
 of tire same undertaking for bringing the waters of the nver 
 Ourcq to the capital. Projected in 1799, the works were not 
 completed until 1830. They convey water to a spacious basin 
 for the supply of the inhabitants, as also for a navigable canal 
 from the Seine at St. Denis to the basin, and from the basin 
 to the Seine at the Arsenal. The branches of these works go 
 bv the names of the Canal de V Ourcq, Bassm de la 1 illetU 
 Canal St. Martin, Care del’ Arsenal, and Canal St. Denis. (1) 
 
 The Canal de I’Oarcq joins the Ourcq beyond Mareuil 10 
 lea-ues from Paris, and, after collecting divers streams, falls 
 into the Bassin de la Villette. It furnishes 13,500 inches, 
 or 260,820 cubic metres every 24 hours, for the locks 
 on the two canals St. Denis and St. Martin, and for the sup- 
 ply to the public fountains, markets, and houses. The de- 
 clivity is 8 feet per lOOO, the fall 1 foot per minute ; length 
 24 lea-^ues- breadth between Mareuil and Lizy 31 feet; thence 
 to the Bassin de la Villette 1 1 feet. It cost 23 , 000,000 fr. 
 
 Tlie Bassin de la Villette, beyond theBoulevard of that name, 
 begun in 1806, and finished in 1809, forms a parallelogram ot 
 740 yards by 77, and receives tlie waters of the Canal de 
 I’Ourcq at the northern extremity. It supplies water to the 
 Aqueduc de Ceinture and the Canal St. Martin. 
 
 The Canal St. Martin is 3,467 yards by 7, and connects 
 the basin with the Care de 1’ Arsenal, Place de la Bastille and 
 is now partly arched over. It cost 14 , 200,000 fi. 
 
 The Gare de V Arsenal, in part formed of the moat of the 
 Bastille, is 651 yards by 6t. It can receive upwards of 80 
 barges, leaving the middle clear for a passage. 
 
 The Canal St. Denis begins near St. Denis, where the small 
 river Bouillon empties itself into the Seine and terminates at 
 the Canal de I’Ourcq, 900 yards beyond tbe Bassm de la Vil- 
 lette. Its length is 7,333 yards. It cost 8 , 0 o 0,000 frs. 
 
 AOIJEDIJCTS. — Aqueduc d’Arcueil. The Romans erected an 
 aqueduct over a valley, south of Paris, for the conveyance of 
 water to the Palais des Thermes, from Rongis, ^ca^ues 
 distance. Part of this ancient construction, consisting of two 
 arches substantially built, still exists near the modern aque- 
 duct at Arcueil, which was built after the designs of Dts 
 brosses, and finished in 1624. This magnificent aqueduct 
 extends across the valley of Arcueil upon 2 5 arches, 7 2 feet in 
 hci-lit. Its total length, from Arcueil to the rescrvoii neai 
 the°Observatory, is 18,200 yards. The river generally flows 
 
 (0 Since 1819 the works for bringing water to Paris and dis- 
 tributing it, have cost 80 millions of francs. 
 
GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 through two of the central arches. It supplies 36,000 hogs- 
 heads daily, distributed to 16 fountains, besides those of the 
 
 hospitals. 
 
 to see the mteiior appiy to the keeper at Arcueil. 
 
 The Aqueduc de Ceinture extends from the western ano-le nf 
 he Bassin de la ViUelle as far as Moaceaux, bouTdtaTpaXon 
 the north. I s length is 10,300 yards. The first of its 5 
 
 the Place Royale, 
 
 and the Marche des Innocents; the 2d, the faubourgs Mont- 
 martre and Poissonniere, with the Palais Royal ; the 3d 
 ^e Chaussee d Antin ; the 4th, the Champs Elysees Tuileries* 
 Place de la Concorde, Invalides, and Ecole Militaire! 
 
 Aqueduc de Belleville.— This aqueduct was built under 
 Philip Aupstus. The first reservoir is situated upon the 
 most elevated point of Belleville. At the Barriere d?Menil- 
 montant IS another reservoir, whence the water is distributed 
 to the adjoining parts of Ppis. It supplies 432 hogsheads. 
 
 ^ueduc de St. Gervats or de Romainville. — It conducts 
 water into a reservoir in the village of Pre St. Gervais, whence 
 
 1 \ i" the time of St. 
 
 Louis. Supply, 648 hogsheads daily. 
 
 ABTESIAN WELW.-Of these there arc two, viz., that of 
 Crenelle (see p. 334) and that of Passy (see p. l9o' Others 
 Courbevoie, MCnilLnlant,' La Ch!,! 
 
 ^ FOTINTAIX^^ ^^^^'^tte aux Cailles,near the Gobelins. 
 tOUNTAIfvS.— The necessity of constructing numerous 
 
 bZ"t on^which it is 
 
 built, which renders springs extremely rare, (l) The nur- 
 
 amHheVTT article of domLtic expeLe, 
 
 and the city has new fountains or pipes opened almost everj^ 
 day. There are at present 3.5 monumental and 88 plain foun- 
 tains, besides 2 053 bornes-fontaines, or water-plugs which 
 
 wer illf CiJl d ^ streets. More 
 
 loYv’ J ?*• ‘t’sti-'butes water to 393 state or muncipal es- 
 
 and to 7388 private individuals. The total length 
 
 viz reservoirs in Paris, 
 
 V . at. 9, rue Racine; in, rue Vaugirard; le, rue de la 
 
 (1) In the 1 5th century there were only 12 public fountains 
 and under Francis I. not more than le, supplying only 1 inch 
 population amounted to 3oo,ooo ^nhabi- 
 tants. Under Henry IV. and Louis XIll. 14 new fountains were 
 made. Under Louis XV., when the population S eoo 000 
 the pumps at the Pont Neuf and the Pont Notre Dame fnow de^ 
 mol, shed) were the principal sou.-ces of supply, anTfimnTs^^^^^^^ 
 frpni 60 to 100 mchos daily. The Pomp« d fe7a\ JlTailloraOj 
 
QUAYS. 29 
 
 VieilleEstrapade ; in rue Cassini, near the Observatory ; adjoin - 
 ing the Strasbourg railway-station, and in the newly-annexed 
 communes of Monceaux, Montmartre, Belleville, andPassy(l). 
 
 BRIDGES. — The bridges at Paris have little ascent, owing 
 to the elevation of the quays above the river. There are 25 
 bridges over the Seine, of which 2 are suspension bridges, 4 
 of iron and stone, 1 of wood, and the rest of stone. Their 
 names, with the date of their construction are marked on black 
 slabs at each end. For descriptions of them see the Walks. 
 
 QUAYS. — 'The banks of the Seine are skirted with spacious 
 quays, forming two lines of road. The most ancient, the Quai 
 des Augustins, dates from 1312, and the Quai de la Megisserie, 
 from 1369. Under Louis XIII. and XIV. some progress was 
 made in the construction of quays in the He de la Cite, and He 
 St. Louis. Napoleon I extended and improved them con- 
 siderably. The banks of the Seine now display about 1 1 
 miles of quays unequalled by any city in Europe. The longest 
 are the Quai d’Orsay, 3,123 metres, and the Quai de Valmy 
 3,171 metres. They form large terraces, with macadamised 
 carriage-ways and foot-pavements, skirted with trees, lighted 
 with gas and furnished at intervals with benches, thus forming 
 most agreeable promenades. Abreuvoirs, or watering-places 
 for horses, are visible in many parts. 
 
 PORTS OR WHARFS. — The principal are the Port de la 
 Rapes, for wine and fire-wood ; aux Tuiles, for tUes, bricks, 
 slates, 8cc. ; St. Nicolas, for merchandise from Rouen ; d’Or- 
 say, for wine, stone, 6cc. ; des Invalides and Austerlitz, for 
 fire-wood. — The wood is brought down the river either in 
 floats or barges ; the latter bring the best. Charcoal is sold 
 
 that at Gros Caillou afterwards supplied 320 additional inches. 
 The water that will pass through an inch conduit (un pouce 
 de fontainier) in 24 hours, is 19 cubic metres, or 1 9,000 litres. 
 At present Paris daily receives 4 04,000 cubic metres of water 
 from the Canal de I’Ourcq; 40,800 from the Seine ; 4,600 from 
 Arcueil ; 900 from the Artesian well of Grenelle, 6,200 from that 
 of Passy, and 300 from the Sources du Aord, which are springs on 
 the northern side of the Paris basin. The length of the main 
 pipes distributing this quantity is 70,000 metres ; the secondary 
 pipes form together a length of 242,000 metres. A new and im- 
 mense aqueduct now brings water to Paris from the Somme, 
 Soude, and Dhuys, in Champagne, yielding 36,ooO cubic metres in 
 24 hours, at 5 cent, a metre. Cost : 38 millions of francs. 
 
 ( 1 ) The City receives sfr. annually for the daily supply of each 
 hectolitre of water from the Canal de I’Ourcq, and 10 fr. for that 
 supplied from the Seine, Arcueil, and the Artesian well of Gre- 
 nelle. The total sums received for this item amounted in 1864 
 to 5,552,800 fr. The quantity of water used daily is 15, 400 , 000 
 gallons. Seine water is the best. 
 
30 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 on hoard boats that lie off the Pont des Arts, lie de la Cite, He 
 St. Louis, and along the Canal del’Ourcq. (1) 
 
 STREETS AND IIOUSES, &c. — Since the annexation of 
 the suhurhan communes there are now in Paris 7 6 avenues ; 
 92 boulevards ; 49 chemins de ronde, forming the military- 
 road parallel to the line of fortifications; 120 blind alleys ; 
 244 squares; 47 quays; 2,2 58 streets; 157 passages, gal- 
 leries, or courts; 140 cites-, and 127 small roads, making 
 together a total of 2,92 2 public or private lines of communi- 
 cation. The number of houses is 68,000, and of shops 
 300,000. The total length of foot pavement, or trottoirs, 
 is at present 1,300 kilometres, or 812 miles. (2) The 
 proprietors of houses are bound to scrape, paint, or white- 
 wash the fronts of their houses once at least every ten 
 years. No rubbish is allowed to be thrown into the streets ex- 
 cept at night or early in the morning ; and every proprietor 
 is bound to sweep his halt of the road, in front of Ids walls, 
 every morning, and in the summer to water it. 
 
 The stone used for paving the streets and squares is a com- 
 pact sandstone, found on the outskirts of the Paris Basin. The 
 footways are partly made with the lavas and basalts of Vol- 
 
 (1) From the cleparlments above Paris, about 12,000 boats 
 arrive annually with fruit, hay, corn, flour, tiles, bricks, wine, 
 flax, paving-stones, &c.; besides about 5,000 floats of timber, 
 fire-wood, and charcoal. Havre and Rouen send yearly about 
 eoo boats with glass, cider, wine, brandy, salt, foreign corn, &c. 
 
 (2) Streets were first paved under Philip Augustus. The fol- 
 lowing table shows the increase of pavements since i 280 . 
 
 Years. 
 
 Length. Surface. 
 
 Cost. 
 
 1280 
 
 35,000 met. 178,000 sq. met. 
 
 1 fr.per sq.m 
 
 1638 
 
 160,000 848,000 
 
 4 
 
 1700 
 
 270,000 1,672,000 
 
 5 
 
 1800 
 
 350,000 2,500,000 
 
 7 
 
 1820 
 
 380,000 2,755,000 
 
 8 
 
 1862 
 
 710,000 5,937,000 
 
 10 
 
 The following is the length of a few of the principal streets : 
 — rue de I’Universit^, 2,417 metres; Vangirard, 2 , 143 ; St. Do- 
 minique, 2,439 ; Boulevart de Sebastopol, 3,000 ; Rue GrenelleSt. 
 Germain, 2 , 251 ; Rivoli, 3,i46 ; Roulevard,du Prince Eugene, 
 2,300 metres. From the Arc de I’Etoile to the Place du Trone, 
 8,000 metres along the Rouleiards. The sweeping the streets 
 of Paris costs the City 1 , 500,000 fr. a -year; the contractors 
 clear 500,000 fr. by the sale of Ihe rubbish, which, after having 
 rotted in pits, is sold at the rate of 3 and 5 fr. per cubic metre, 
 and produces about 3 , 500,000 fr. ! The number of scavengers 
 is 2500, divided into four leaions, or 36 companies of four sec- 
 tions each. They require yearly 25,000 brooms. The cost to the 
 City for paving and sweeping the streets is about 9 , 820,000 fr. pCr 
 annum foot-pavements, 535,000 fr. ; numbering houses and 
 
PRIVATE EDIFICES. 
 
 31 
 
 vie, in Auvergne, and partly with a mixture of asphaltum and 
 gravel, which, being poured in a hot fluid state on a level 
 plastered surface, hardens immediately, and will endure great 
 wear and tear. The cost of lava flagging is about 13 fr. per 
 square mMre; that of bitumen flagging is 8 fr. Wood pave- 
 ment has been tried in Paris, but without success. (1) 
 
 It was not till 17 28 that the useful plan was adopted of placing 
 the names of streets in a conspicuous situation ; and the names 
 then given to them remained unchanged till 17 89. At present 
 the quarter and number of the arrondissement are marked on 
 the same lava slab which bears the name of the street in 
 white letters on a blue ground. Great regularity is observed 
 in the numbering of houses. In the streets parallel to the Seine 
 the numbers follow the course of the river ; in those perpendi- 
 cular to it or nearly so, the lowest number begins at the ex- 
 tremity nearest the Seine. In either case the even numbers are 
 to the right, and the odd ones to the left of the visitor follow- 
 ing the course of the river, or turning away from it. 
 
 Before Louis XVI., Paris was lighted during only nine months 
 of the year, and then only in the absence of moonlight. That 
 monarch decreed its continuance during the whole year. Before 
 gas was introduced the city was lighted by lamps suspended 
 from ropes hung across the streets. (2) 
 
 PBIVATE EDIFICES. — The vast improvements which 
 have been in progress for the last ten years have con- 
 
 names of streets, 80,ooo fr. From 1830 to the present time, 
 130 new streets have been opened in Paris. The number of 
 houses pulled down in i &66 was 2 , 256 : the new ones built 
 during the same period amount to 3 , 6 14 . 
 
 (1) The cost of paving-stones is 47 ofr. per thousand, and 
 that of laying them down from lo to i2 fr. per square m 5 tre. 
 The watering of streets costs 500,000 fr. per annum. 
 
 (2) The lighting of Paris, in its present extent, is effected by 
 29,000 gas-burners, at a cost of 3,100,000 fr. The length of 
 all the gas-pipes is 1,037 kilometres. Oil-lamps are confined 
 to the outskirts During 6 months, all the lamps are lighted, 
 and during the other 6 months, a certain number for part 
 of the night. The gas is provided by a company chartered 
 for 50 years, commencing from i 856 , which furnishes 101,000,000 
 cubic metres of gas per ann. at the rate of i 5 c. per cubic metre 
 to the City and Government, and of 3 o c. to private persons. 
 The number of gas-burners in private establishments is 358 , 000. 
 No gas-works (of which there are 10) are allowed in the In- 
 terior of Paris. The Company pays 200,000 fr. a-year to the 
 City for the space occupied by the pipes. In I006, all the pipes 
 and accessories will revert to the City on payment of a sum of 
 2,ooo,ooofr. The. number of lamp-lighters is 448 
 
32 GENERAL tNEoRMATfON. 
 
 sideraUy reduced the number of old historical build- 
 ings for which Paris was so remarkable. The oldest 
 parts of Paris, in the immediate neighbourhood of Notre 
 Dame, and on the banks of the Seine facing the He de la 
 Cite, still contain many houses that belonged to the bourgeoisie 
 of the 13th and 14th centuries. The most remarkable of the 
 royal and noble mansions of the middle ages are the Hdtels de 
 Sens, and de Cluny. The Hdtels de Lamoignon, de Sully, 
 and de Carnavalet, may be quoted as fine specimens of the 
 Italian taste which prevailed under Henry IV. Under 
 Louis XIV., the magnificence of the court, and the increased 
 extravagance of the nobility, led to the erection of many of 
 the finest amongst the old hotels of the faubourg St. Germain. 
 The other residences of that quarter date from Louis XV., or 
 the early years of his unfortunate successor. A check was 
 given to all progress in architecture by the revolution of 17 89, 
 till the accession of Napoleon I., who contributed by his example 
 to the revival of the taste for elegant mansions. But the prin- 
 cipal improvements in building have been effected since 1830 ; 
 and in most of the edifices of this period the connoisseur will 
 meet with some tasteful application of the Italian or Gothic 
 styles. The new streets abound with instances of the kind. 
 
 PALACES. (1)— The kings of France changed the place of 
 their central residence at almost each of the grand distinctive 
 epochs of the national history. On the cessation of the Roman 
 sway in Gaul, the Palais des Thermes was in all probability 
 the residence of the chief magistrate of the country ; and about 
 the end of the loth century the Palais de Justice became the 
 seat of royalty. Of the former a Hall of Baths alone exists ; 
 but the Sainte Chapelle may give an idea of the splendour 
 that prevailedin the construction of the second. From the time of 
 St. Louis, Vincennes, the Bastille, and the Old Louvre became 
 successively the residences of the sovereign. The two latter 
 have entirely disappeared; the first, though greatly muti- 
 lated, still retains some of its feudal terrors as well as mag- 
 nificence. The present Louvre, and the colossal additions it 
 has received to unite it with the Tuileries, now form one of 
 the most attractive features of the metropolis. The central part 
 of the Tuileries comes next in order of antiquity ; and then 
 the eastern part of the Long Gallery that connects it with tbe 
 Louvre. In historical associations the Palace of the Tuileries 
 rivals, while in scenes of slaughter and mournful recollection, 
 it surpasses, the great monument of the age of Louis XIV., Ver- 
 sailles. The Luxembourg is the best specimen extant of the 
 reign of Louis XHI. Next to this comes the Palais Royal, 
 (i) For descriptions of all these edifices, sec Index. 
 
CHURCHES. 33 
 
 which has replaced an edifice of nearly the sanie date as the 
 Luxembourg ; and the late Palais Bourbon, now appropriated 
 to the use of the Legislative Body . Both edifices have a strong 
 claim upon the attention of the stranger, having been long the 
 respective residences of the families of Orleans and Conde. 
 The Palais de V Ely see Napoleon must not be omitted, since 
 the interest it derives from history is now enhanced by its 
 having been the official residence of the present Emperor, 
 when President of the Republic. If to this list be added the 
 : chateaux near Paris, belonging to the State, such as Versailles, 
 
 • Les Trianons, St. Germain, Compiegne, Fontainebleau, 
 Meudon, and St. Cloud, the magnificence of the ancient court 
 of France will in some degree be understood. 
 
 CHURCHES. — Of these St. Germain des Pris is the most 
 valuable relic of the Romanesque style of architecture now re- 
 maining in Paris. Of the Early Pointed style Notre Dame is 
 the great type ; and, both from its size and numerous historical 
 recollections, the cathedral church takes the lead of all others. 
 There are hardly any specimens of the early Flamboyant style 
 remaining. St. Severin and St. Germain I’Auxerrois belong 
 to its middle period(1400— 1500); St. Gervais and St.Merri, 
 with the still remaining tower of St. Jacques de la Boucherie, 
 to its latter period (1 500—1 550). The style of the Renaissance 
 des Arts has a most magnificent and perfect illustration in St. 
 Eustache, and a curious one in St. Etienne du Mont. Of the 
 churches built in the Italian or Palladiati style, the earliest 
 is St. Paul et St. Louis, which is one of the most beautiful edi- 
 fices of the reign of Louis XIH. The age of Louis XIV. has its 
 ecclesiastical architecture represented by the churches and 
 domes of the Val de Grdce and the Invalides, the latter being 
 of its kind the chef-d’oeuvre of that magnificent epoch. The 
 church of St. Sulpice is the only large specimen of the style of 
 sacred architecture under Louis XV. The Panthdon, or Church 
 pf St. Genevieve, exemplifies theskill of French architects under 
 Louis XVI. This edifice by its associations points rather to the 
 times of the first republic. The era of the first empire pro- 
 duced the designs for the Madeleine ; the honour of finishing that 
 classic pile belongs to Louis Philippe. As to the accessory 
 decorations of churches, the splendid paintings of the dome of 
 the Invalides, the pictures and altars of Notre Dame and St. 
 Etienne du Mont, with the pictures of Ste. Marguerite and 
 St. Nicolas des Champs, are particularly worthy of notice. 
 The interiors of the Madeleine and St. Vincent de Paule are 
 the best specimens of the decorative taste of the present day. 
 
 The churches of St. Roch, St. Eustache, and Notre Dam.e 
 de Lorette are celebrated for their music, and on high festivals 
 
 3 
 
34 
 
 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 are much crowded. Notre Dame, St. Sulpice, and SL 
 Etienne du Mont, are also much frequented. All the Catholic 
 places of worship in Paris are open from an early hour in 
 the morning till 5 or 6 in the evening ; on Sundays and festi- 
 vals, persons using chairs pay 2 sous for each. 
 
 PUBLIC BUILDINGS.— The Hotels of the Ministers are in 
 general splendid residences, and contain all the offices, 8cc., 
 connected with the functions of each ministerial department. 
 The Hotel of the Minister of Finance is the largest, and is situ- 
 ated the nearest to the Tuileries ; the others are in the Faubourg 
 St. Germain, or in the Place Vendome, and that of Foreign 
 Affairs on the Quay d’Orsay. Soldiers mount guard at each. 
 
 Of the residences of the Foreign Ministers, the largest and 
 most sumptuous is that of the British Ambassador. 
 
 The finest of the municipal buildings of Paris is the Hotel de 
 Ville, where the Prefect of the department resides, and the se- 
 veral offices dependent upon him are located, and councils held. 
 It is the centre of the municipal jurisdiction of the depart- 
 ment, while the Prefecture of Police is the centre for all mat- 
 ters relating to public order, health, and security. 
 
 The Palais de Justice unites within its precincts the supreme 
 civil jurisdiction of the State, the Cour de Cassation, the Cour 
 d’ Appel, the Tribunal de Premiere Instance, and the Tribunal 
 de Police Municipale. The new and richly decorated build- 
 ings of the Tribunal of Commerce stands opposite. Law 
 societies, such as the Temple, 5cc., in Loudon, do not exist in 
 Paris; and, although many lawyers reside near the Palais 
 de Justice, there is no particular place of abode for them as a 
 professional body. 
 
 The Mint, or Hotel des Monnaies, is a building of ele- 
 gant design ; the Record-office, or H6tel des Archives, and 
 the Imperial Printing-office, were once princely residences. 
 
 Most of the principal bankers are established in the vicinity 
 of the Exchange, or Bourse, the most remarkable of the com- 
 mercial buildings. 
 
 The edifices connected with literature and science are mostly 
 on the southern side of the river, situated within, or grouped 
 around, Jhe ancient University. Such are the Observatory ; 
 and, in the immediate vicinity of the Pantheon, the buildings 
 of the old University: the Sorbonne, and others now occupied 
 by the Ecole Polytechnique, and two of the Imperial Lyceums. 
 The corps d’ elite of science and literature, united in the Institut, 
 holds its meetings on the spot where the ancient College des 
 Quatre Nations stood. Of the scholastic establishments one 
 of the most prominent on many accounts is the Sorbonne. 
 The great establishment of the Jardin des Plantes lies to the 
 
PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 35 
 
 east of the Pantheon, in a less frequented quarter of the town, 
 and boasts some of the corapletest museums of Natural History 
 in Europe. The chief literary establishment on the northern 
 side is the Bibliotheque Imperiale, the richest collection of 
 books and manuscripts, perhaps, on the Continent. These 
 edifices, and the relics of the once powerful University of Paris, 
 with its 30 colleges, some of which are still traceable, are ali 
 of high interest to the antiquary. 
 
 The Arc de Triomphe de VEtoile, and the columns of the 
 Place Venddme, the Bastille, and the Trdne, are the most pro- 
 minent and interesting of those monuments which are purely 
 ornamental. 
 
 The military tendencies of the French nation are peculiarly 
 conspicuous in the capital. The visitor cannot fail to be 
 struck with the vastness and solidity of the Fortifications 
 which encircle Paris. The idea of fortifsiiig the city origi- 
 nated with Napoleon, but it was not carried out until 1841, 
 when 140,000,000 fr. were granted for the purpose. The en- 
 ceinte, consisting of 94 fronts of 365 metres, with a ditch of 
 the average depth of 6 metres, and a breadth of from 18 to 50 
 metres; has 65 entrances, viz , 51 gates, lo passages for 
 railways, and 4 posterns. The walls average 1 2 metres to 
 the crest of the parapet. Seventeen casemated detached forts, 
 presenting 93 fronts, defend the approaches (1), and are con- 
 nected by a series of strategical roads. 
 
 Within Paris, the most remarkable military edifices are the 
 casernes, or barracks, most of whicb were erected in 1730 
 by Marshal Biron. The principal one, the Ecole Militaire is 
 one of the most admired buildings of the reign of Louis XV. 
 Of those recently built, the most remarkable are the Caserne 
 Napoleon, behind the Hotel-de-Ville, the Caserne da Prince 
 Eugene, Boulevard St. Martin, and that of the Rue de la 
 Banque. The military hospital of the Val de Grace is placed 
 in what w^as once the most richly-adorned convent of Paris ; 
 and the Hdtel des Invalides, is a splendid and colossal pile of 
 building. 
 
 The charitable buildings of Paris are, on account of their 
 monastic origin, remarkable for their solidity and size. The 
 
 (l) They are: — Forts de C haven ton. Nog mt . Rnsny Noisy. Romain- 
 ville, d’Aabenilliers de I'Ed. Couronne du Nord. Forts de la Briche, 
 du Mont F/Ie'ridnfthemosUmposing of alL,rfe Vanvvs. d’Usy Mont- 
 rouge, RicStre, d’lrry • Litn'dte de Stains ,■ Fort de Rouvray. Paris 
 and its forts are armed with 2,238 mortars, cannons, and how- 
 itzers ; 57 5 rampart guns, 200,000 muskets, i,5o0 rocket-tubes, 
 2,700 gun carriages, calculated for a million of projectiles, in 
 all 9,129,000 kilos. ; 800,oookilos. of lead, and 2 , 000,000 kilos, 
 of gunpowder. 
 
36 general information. 
 
 Hdtel Dieu possesses no architectural beauty ; the hospital of 
 the SalpUriere is the most remarkable for its construction as 
 well as for its extent; the Hdpital St. Louis is a picturesque 
 edifice of the time of Henry IV. Bicitre, though not within the 
 walls of the town, is yet essentially an institution of Paris. 
 These edifices are maintained, by public as well as private 
 funds, in a manner worthy of the nation to which they belong. 
 
 PLACES. — Every open space at the junction of streets, &c., 
 of more than usual size, is termed a place. Some of them are 
 remarkable for their surrounding edifices, and a few for their 
 size. The principal are the Place de la Concorde, du Carrou- 
 sel, du Palais Roijal, Venddme, des Victoires, Royale, &c. 
 
 SQUARES. — Paris now possesses eight squares laid out as 
 gardens, in the London style, hut open to the public. They 
 cover in the aggregate an area of 8 acres. Chairs may be 
 hired there for 3 or 4 sous. The most remarkable are those 
 of St. Jacques de la Boucherie, the Temple, Ste. Clotilde. Place 
 Louvois, Place Montholon, and des Arts and Metiers. 
 
 THE BOULEVARDS. — About 1670, Paris ceased to be a 
 fortified city ; the walls and towers were pulled down, and a 
 road made which took the name of Boulevard (bulwark), and 
 was planted with trees from the rue St. Antoine to the rue St. 
 Martin. A triumphal arch was erected on the site of the Porte 
 St. Denis, and the boulevard soon extended from the rue St. 
 Martin to the rue St. Honore. The northern boulevai’ds were 
 finished in 1704, those on the south in 1761. 
 
 The old boulevards, which, since the formation of those 
 skirting the new additions to Paris, are called Boulevards in- 
 i^neurs, form two grand divisions, the Boidevard du Nordand 
 the Boulevard du Midi. The former is 5 ,067 metres in length, 
 and is subdivided into 12 parts. (See Map.) The Boulevard 
 du Midi is 6,100 metres in length, and is divided into 7 parts. 
 Thej'^ are planted with four rows of trees, forming a carriage- 
 road with a double walk on each side. (1) The Boulevard ex- 
 terieur, finished in 1814, and measuring 15,222 metres on the 
 northern, and 8 , 1 59 on the southern bank, is divided into parts 
 named after the Marshals of the Empire. The northern boule- 
 vards are now the pride of Paris. Once its bulwark, they 
 have become its ornament. Their great extent, the dazzling 
 beauty, the luxury of the shops, the restaurants, the cafes, on or 
 near them ; the crowds of well-dressed persons who frequent 
 them ; the glancing of lights among the trees ; the sounds of 
 music ; the incessant roll of carriages, all this forms a medley 
 
 (I) The planting and keeping in order all Ihe parks, squares, 
 and walks of Paris costs the City 2,448,ooo fr. a-year. The num- 
 ber of trees in the gardens, walks, streets, &c., is 158,460. 
 
MAKKETS, BATHS, ETC. 37 
 
 of sights and sounds anything but unpleasing to the visitor who 
 walks the boulevards for the first time on a fine evening. The 
 Boulevard des Italiens is the most fashionable part, and, in 
 fine weather, is densely crowded with ladies and gentlemen 
 seated on chairs hired for 2 or 3 sous each (1). To the northern j 
 boulevards must now be added the magnificent Boulevard de | 
 Sebastopol, those round the Arc de Triomphe de I’Etoile, | 
 the Boulevard Malesherbes, the Boulevards Haussmann, de , 
 Magenta, de VAlma, du Prince Engine, Bichard Lenoir, 
 and others still under construction. The boulevards to the 
 south being almost deserted, offer a striking contrast to this 
 lively picture. 
 
 PASSAGES.— These are a grand resort of all the loungers of 
 the town . The most remarkable are ; the Passages des Pano- 
 ramas, Jouffroy, Verdeau, Vivienne, Colbert, Choiseul, De- 
 lorme, duSaumon, Vero-Dodat, des Princes, &c. 
 
 BAZAABS. — There are six of these of some note existing in 
 Paris. The best are the Bazars Montmartre and Jouffroy. 
 
 MARKETS, &c, — ^The first market-house in Paris was situ- 
 ated in the Cite, near the street still called rue du Marche Pain. 
 
 A market, called Marche de I’Apport, was afterwards held near 
 the extremity of the rue St. Denis, till Louis VI. transferred it 
 to a piece of ground near the cemetery des Innocents named 
 Champeaux, or Petit Champs. Philip Augustus established 
 two other markets near the same spot, and they took the name 
 of halles. Each class of dealers and every neighbouring town 
 had its particular halle. Francis I. caused all the halles to be 
 rebuilt, with pillars of stone opening into dark galleries. (1.) 
 
 At present there are markets in every part of the city ; the 
 most elegant being the Halles Centrales (see p. 243). — For the 
 principal markets, see Index, under Marche and Halle. (2) 
 The dealers in the market-places amount to nearly 9,000. (3) 
 
 BATHS, &c — These were very common in the time of the 
 Romans, as well as in the middle ages, when they were called 
 etuves-, their proprietors, the barUers-etuvistes, iovmmg a 
 corporate body. Under Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. they be- 
 
 (1) The City clears about 20,000 fr. per annum from this 
 source of revenue. 
 
 (2) A halle signifies a place where goods of any kind are sold 
 wholesale ; demarche is where commodities are purchased retail. 
 There are at present 22 of the former, and 24 of the latter. 
 
 (3) The kitchen gardens in the environs of Paris produce 
 so,ooo,oOOfr. annually, and employ upwards of 50 ,o 0 o persons. 
 There are also about 200 flower-gardens in and aboutParis; and 
 the sale of flowers, especially on great ball days, or similar occa- 
 sions, amounts to between 30,000 fr, and 50,000 fr„ rtailir. 
 
38 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 came places of debauchery. There are now 200 hathing-estab- 
 lishments in Paris, which afford every kind of accommodation 
 at a low charge, and furnish on an average 2,500,000 baths 
 per annum to the publi;', including mineral and vapour baths. 
 They are formed of ranges of small rooms. The bains am- 
 bulants, or portable baths, are a great accommodation to the 
 public. There are also cheap hygienic baths for workmen, 
 under the direction of a society, winch last year gave them 
 and their children upwards of 40,000 baths. Paris also con- 
 tains 174 Lavoirs, or public wash-houses, encouraged by the 
 City by a reduction of the water-rates in their favour. Ecolesde 
 Natation, or swimming-schools for both sexes, and baths of 
 every kind, are to he found during summer in floating esta- 
 blishments on the Seine, covered in, and fitted up with gal- 
 leries, bathing-rooms, ])lunging-hridges, &c. Net or wood- 
 work is placed at the bottom, which can be raised to the 
 surface on occasion. Men are always in attendance to give 
 instructions in swimming, and ropes and poles are in readi- 
 ness to prevent accidents. The price generally is 12 sous, 
 but there are some for the loxver oi’der of people, at 4 sous. 
 
 CEMETERIES. — Before the seventh century, the Parisians 
 buried their dead in the Roman fashion, without the city walls, 
 along the sides of the high roads. Interments were subsequently 
 allowed in churches and the contiguous ground, and, the city 
 increasing, the cemeteries became gradually inclosed within the 
 walls. At length, in 1790, the National Assembly prohibited 
 interments within churches and towns. During the reign of 
 Terror, men were buried without any ceremony or memorial 
 to mark the spot where they lay. Since 1 8 1 1 , the cemeteries 
 have been constituted nearly as they are at present. 
 
 Eight cemeteries now lie within Paris, in consequence of its 
 enlargement. Those which are most worthy of a visit 
 on account of the picturesque style in which they are laid 
 out, and the elegant monuments they contain, are those of 
 Pore Lachaise, Montmartre, and Mont Parnasse. On 
 Sundays and on All Souls’ Day, whole families of the 
 Parisians visit the graves of their relatives, and the ceme- 
 teries are crowded. Any person or company may he entrusted 
 with the erection and rejiair of the tombs. See. The interments 
 take place with or without religious ceremonies, as the friends 
 of the deceased please. All requisite information may he had 
 at each of the cemeteries. (1) Chaplains are attached to the 
 ccmetei'ics for gratuitous service at the burials of the poor. 
 
 (i) There were formerly three kinds of graves in the cemete- 
 ries, namely : common graves {fosses communes), graves conceded 
 for a certain period, and perpetual graves. The latter are now 
 
ABATTOmS. 
 
 39 
 
 ABATTOIRS (SLAUGHTER-HOUSES).— To remove the 
 nuisances arising from the driving of cattle through the 
 streets Napoleon in 1809 decreed the construction of five 
 public’ abattoirs at the extremities of the city and the sup- 
 pression of the slaughter-houses in the central parts of Pans. 
 
 Of these establishments there only remain three at present to 
 he pulled down as soon as the great new abattoir at La 
 Villette is completed (see p. 4 50). The stil remaining 
 ones are those of the quarters Popmeourt, Villejuif, and 
 Grenelle. The abattoirs being finished in 1818, at an ex- 
 pense of 10 , 518,000 fr., they were opened by order of the 
 police, and private slaughter-houses prohibited. Houses for 
 melting the tallow and drying the skins are attached to each 
 of these establishments, and are placed at the disposal of 
 persons called fondeurs (melters), who must not lie tallow- 
 chandlers. Strangers should visit one of these establishments 
 fsee p. 27 6) (1). It is also in contemplation to establish a 
 cattle-market at La Villette, on the bank of the canal opposite 
 the new abattoir, and to suppress those of Sceaux and Poissy. 
 
 only granted on condition of parties giving up certain rights as 
 m sja1-n, ano^ved them by the law as it stands. The ground is 
 usually hired for 5 years or more, subject to iene\yal. Up 
 seyen years of age i m&tre is sutlicient for a graye; ahoye that 
 2 metres must be purchased. Two bodies cannot " 
 
 the same ground except the extent be 2 metres, and Hud thti e 
 be a vault constructed in it. In the fosses comraun s 4/, ^ 
 deep, the poor are gratuitously buried, m ^offms p ace close 
 to but not upon each other. They are re-opened at the end 
 of 5 years. The monopoly of burials is granted to a company 
 under the title of Entreprise des Pompes hnnebres, ^ 
 
 ccriain tariff. Funerals are dislinguished into 9 classes; the 
 SwS costing 18 fr. 75 c., including the religious ceremonies, 
 and the ist class 7 iHi francs. This last is but a rough esti- 
 mate, for no exact maximum can be set 
 le"al limits to funeral pomp. Thecbicf office of tbe Enticpi 
 des Pompes Funfibres is at to, Rue Alibeit. There are I’esides 
 branches^ at all the Mairies, where inquiries respecting 
 forms, expenses, &c., will be answered. In 
 nersons dyin« inParis, application should be made lolhe cleiU of 
 liny of Ihe places of English worship, who will Sei'cndly und^^^ 
 take Ihe management of Ihe funeral. Government ’eceives 
 from the Pompes Funehres 83'/o per cent, on the produce of 
 funeral ornaments, and 15 per cent, on arlieles furn'shed. 
 
 (0 The duty upon the animals slaughtered 
 the octroi-duty paid on entering tbe abattoirs, and amounls o 
 twelve 1-3 centimes per kilogr. of The mi^ 
 
 (•hers within the metropolis is now 869. fbt ^ f 
 
 ])rin» meat to Ihe markets of Paris on pajment of a duly ot 
 eleJen i-5 c. per kil. The cattle bought at Foissy or Sceaux is 
 
GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 COMMON SEWERS, &c. — The Seine and the Bievre in the 
 southern part of Paris, and the Seine and the rivulet of Menil- 
 montant in the northern part, were formerly the only recen- 
 tacles for ram-water, &c. The ditches round the city-walJ 
 served as sewers. Vaulted sewers were first begun in 1671 (i) 
 The gutters formerly in the middle of the streets, are now 
 mostly placed bj^ the side of the foot-pavements. Closely 
 connected with the drainage of the town, is the system adopted 
 for removing the night-soU from the houses (see p. 451. n.) 
 
 SOCIAL STATISTICS. 
 
 POPULATION. The following table shows the pro<^ressive 
 increase of the population of Paris within its new limits”: 
 
 Yoarc ..r 
 
 Years. 
 
 1292 
 
 1553 
 
 1718 
 
 1755 
 
 1784 
 
 In 1866 
 2,150,916 
 
 I'opulation. 
 
 215,861 
 
 260,000 
 
 509.000 
 
 576.000 
 
 660.000 
 
 , I’opulation: 
 
 1802 (war) 672,000 
 
 1817 (peace) 713,000 
 
 *856 1,174,346 
 
 1861 (extension) 1,696,144 
 1866 (last census)!, 825, 274 
 
 the whole department of the Seine contained 
 souls, exclusive of sirangers. The number of 
 
 ^ 'tattle markefs 
 
 8 dttnrs are appointed for receiving consignments of rattle 
 
 ^ «u”L' “ 
 
 cording to Older. They deposit 50,OOo fr. caution money and 
 receive one per cent, on their sales. A special factor™ anpoinled 
 or the sale of pork The fees to the drivers ar2 . 0 c pSeep 
 
 anim?!? ° ‘ responsible for the 
 
 animals. The slaughter-men at the abattoirs get from 1 f r to 
 
 The '^°‘’®'‘‘'P'‘"™'‘'’l'®®i*Jeslheentrails, brains, andblood 
 contrived superior to any as vet 
 
 sePnndn^ Consists of seven main galleries, called collectors i 5 
 
 fvast nnU."r farmer, and themselves fed hy 
 
 fhesf coner^nr, P«s three of 
 
 £ie RovatP ‘ ' converge to a general collector under the 
 
 Stf^Sh the i.itP h " collectors of the left bank also commu- 
 nP lie c ^ syphon sunk under the bed 
 
 of he Seine above the Pont de la Concorde. The general col- 
 lector, which is 5 metres in height by 5 . 6 O in breadfh and five 
 kilometres and a half in length, carries all the sewage it receives 
 
 noats provided with drop-planks in front, whereby such a head 
 c urd'fnVd-" "^'" "c sediment! stones in 
 
 the whole r^ranse 
 
 inc Whole extent. The aggregate length of all the sewers already 
 
 huiU or under constriiclioii, is i6n,oo0 metre? ^ 
 
POPULATION. 
 
 411 
 
 births in the capital for 1865 (last return) was 55,096 ; stillv 
 born children, 4,401; deaths, 51,282 ; marriages, 16,540. 
 Of the births, 27,927 were males, and 27,169 females ; 6,890 
 took place in hospitals, and 15,867 were illegitimate, of 
 'which 3,961 were recognised by their parents. Of the deaths, 
 26,445 were males, and 24,97 6 females ; 37,436 died at their 
 homes, 12,780 in civil hospitals, 684 in military hospitals, 
 131 in prisons, 139 were deposited at the Morgue, and none 
 executed. In the department of the Seine the number of births 
 in the year 1863 was 62,173; deaths, 49,908; marriages, 
 18,813. (l) The average number of deaths in Paris is 1 in 
 4o per annum. 
 
 Of the population of Paris nearly one-half are working people. 
 There are about 80,Ooo servants, and 1 15,000 paupers. Nearly 
 21,000 patients are always in the hospitals, and 4 times that 
 number pass through them in the course of the year. Found- 
 lings and old and infirm persons, are about 20,000 in all. The 
 population of the prisons is about 5,000. (2) 
 
 It has been remarked that families constantly residing in 
 Paris soon become extinct. The effects of this mortality have 
 been observed to be more active upon males than females. 
 
 REVENUE, TAXES, &c. — Paris, which before I860, only 
 
 (1) The total population of France in 18oi was 27,349,000; in 
 1820 it was 30,451,187 ;inl846: 35,401,761 ;inl831: 35,783,059 
 in 1856- 36,039,364 ; and in 1866 : 38,067,094. The lastaccouiit 
 ( 1863 ), comprising the three new departments, is as follows : 
 
 Births . . 
 
 Marriages . 
 Still-born. 
 
 Deaths . . 
 Increase . 
 
 Legitimate. . 
 
 (Boys. . 
 ■ t Girls. . 
 
 479,487 
 
 456,824 
 
 Illegitimate . 
 
 ( Boys. . 
 •(Girls. . 
 
 39,094 
 
 37,389 
 
 Total 
 
 (Boys. . 
 ( Girls. . 
 
 518,581 
 
 494,213 
 
 Males . . . . 
 
 
 426,208 
 
 Females . . . 
 
 
 420,709 
 
 Males . . . . 
 
 
 92,373 
 
 Females . . 
 
 
 73,504 
 
 036,311 
 
 76,483 
 
 1,012,794 
 
 301,376 
 
 45,153 
 
 846,917 
 
 165,877 
 
 The annual average of suicides in France is 4,500, being i in 
 8,311 of the adult population. Suicides of males are to those of 
 females as 4 to i . The mean duration of life in France is at pre- 
 sent 37.7 years; before I7i9 it was but 28‘75, showing an in- 
 crease of nearly 9 years in the average life of man in this coun- 
 try. See the “Annuairc du Bureau des Longitudes.” 
 
 (2) The last census (1861) showed that there were in France 
 1 0 , 210,756 bachelors, and 9,487,54 1 spinsters; 928,724 widower?, 
 and 1 , 795,065 widows; and about 7 , 000,000 married couples. 
 
42 
 
 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 comprised the old city together with its faubourgs or suburbs, 
 has now absorbed the greater part of the 37 communes which 
 constituted its banlieue, or precincts and environs, which lie 
 within the fortifications. The budget of Paris for 18C7 is 
 officially stated at 24t,653,(il3 fr. both for receipts and 
 expenditure (1). The City contributes about 18,500,000 fr. 
 towards the expenses of the Slate, and nt'arly 5 millions of 
 francs towards those of the department of the Seine. The 
 contribution fonciere, mobiliere, and des portes et fendtres 
 (house, furniture and window-taxes', produce about 20 mil- 
 lions of francs annually ; the contribution des patentes (trade 
 licenses), nearly \2}4 millions of francs. 
 
 Since 1851, the contribution personnelle has been regu- 
 lated as follows ; persons renting lodgings of less than 
 250 fr. a-ycar pay none, unless patentes, or licensed to trade, 
 in which case they pay 3 percent on the rent ; from that sum 
 to 499 fr., 3 per cent, on the amount of the rent; 500 to 
 999 fr., 5 percent. ; 1000 to 1499 fr., 7 per cent. ; and 1500 
 and upwards, 9 per cent, on the rent. The debt of the city 
 of Paris in 1865 amounted to 200,000,000 fr. 
 
 Tariff of the Octroi or Entrance Duties. — Per hecto- 
 litre : Wine in wood, 18 fr. ; do. in bottles, 25 fr. ; brandy 
 and spirits, liqueurs, fruit in brandy, and scented spirits, 
 114 fr. 50c. ; perry and cider, 7 fr. 80 c. ; vinegar, verjuice, 
 &c., 10 fr. ; beer brought to Paris, 3 fr. 80 c.; do. brewed 
 in Paris, 2 fr. 85 c. (2) ; olive oil, 38 fr. ; other oils, 21 fr. ; 
 charcoal, 50c. — Per 100 kilogrammes : butcher’s meal 
 brought into Paris, 10 fr. 55 c. ; ditto from the abattoirs, 
 
 8 fr. 85 c. ; sausages, hams, &c., 20 fr. 70 c. ; coals, GO c. ; 
 
 (1) Among tiie items of reccipis, in tliis year’s Inulgef, we find ; 
 — Octroi Duties, 88,ooo,000fr.; Marliet dues, 7 ,r7o,ooo fr.; Public 
 Weights and Measures, i,i3i,00afr.; Supply of Water, ,5,5,53,000 
 fr.; Slaughter-liouses, 2,355,000 fr.; Rents of Slandings on Public 
 Ways, 3,o9o,oo0 fr.; Dues on RuriaLs, 694, ooo fr.: Grants of Land 
 in Cemeteries, i , 520,000 fr.; Contributions of tbeState and others 
 for paving, lighting, etc., H, 399 , 000 fr.; Dog-tax, 420,000 fr. 
 Night-soil, 660,000 fr. 
 
 Among the items of expenditure were: — Interest of Debt and 
 Sinking Fund of tlie City, 13,42S,747 fr.; Expenses of Collection, 
 Salaries, &c., 6,o36,.'5oo fr. ; Primary Instruction, 5 , 200,000 fr. ; 
 Public Worsliip, 154 , 000 fr. ; National Guard and Military Service, 
 
 2 . 947.000 fr.; Repairs of Public Ruildings, 1 , 557,000 fr.; Public 
 Assistance, 21 , 000,000 fr.; Promenades and W''orks of Art, 
 
 3.033.000 fr. ; Establishments of Public Instruction, i44,ooO fr. ; 
 Public Festivals, 7.53,000 fr. ; Expenses of ihe Prefecture of 
 Police, 12,382,000 fr.; New Public 4Vorks, 23, 681,000 fr. ; Light- 
 ing of streets, 4 , 214,000 fr. 
 
 (2) Beer was drunk for the first time in Paris in 1428 . 
 
TRADE OF PARIS. 43 
 
 oats, 1 fr. 25 c. — Per stere: firewood, 2 fr. 50 c. — Per hun- 
 dred truS'S&s of 5 Ictlog. each : dry hay, 5 fr. ; straw, 2 fr. 
 
 Every (driver of articles subject to duty, is bound to make 
 declaratioai thereof at the bureau before he enters Paris ; to 
 show his way-bill to the officers, and pay the duties, upon 
 pain of a fine equal to the value of the articles in question. 
 Any articlle introduced without being declared, or upon a false 
 declaratio'ii, is liable to be seized. The officers cannot use 
 the probimg-iron in their examination of boxes, packages. See., 
 declared to contain goods that may suffer damage. No in- 
 dividual i:s exempt at the gate in his carriage, from inspection 
 or the du ties. There are also octroi offices at the abattoirs for 
 cattle, at the railway-stations, and on the ports. The navi- 
 gation off the Seine, annually produces a net income of 
 1,500,00(0 fr. (1) 
 
 XuADE. — From a late official enquiry set on foot by the 
 Chamber of Commerce, it appears that the trade of Paris may 
 be classeid under ten heads, viz : — 
 
 1. Food .... 
 
 2. Buiilding • 
 
 3. Furniture , . 
 
 4. Clntliing 
 
 6. Fextile fabrics . 
 
 6. Metals .... 
 
 7. .Jewellery, etc. . . 
 
 8. 'Chemistry porcelain 
 
 9. ^Printing, engraving, etc 
 
 10. (Other trades 
 
 Totals 
 
 1 No. of 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 Production 
 
 ’■establish- 
 
 hands. 
 
 in millions. 
 
 ments . 
 29,069 
 
 38,859 
 
 1,088 
 
 5,378 
 
 71,242 
 
 315 
 
 7,391 
 
 37,951 
 
 200 
 
 2.1,80' 
 
 78, -77 
 
 485 
 
 2,836 
 
 26,810 
 
 120 
 
 3,440 
 
 28,866 
 
 161 
 
 3,199 
 
 18,731 
 
 183 
 
 2,719 
 
 14, .3:17 
 
 194 
 
 2,759 
 
 19,507 
 
 94 
 
 20,580 
 
 82,071 
 
 556 
 
 . l(il,171 
 
 416,811 
 
 , 3,369 
 
 The (hands employed comprise about 280,000 men, 
 105,000 women, and the rest children. There are about 
 00,000 males earning from 50 c. to 3 fr. aday; 211,000 
 earn from 3 fr. 25c. to c fr. ; and 15,000 from 0 fr. 5o c, to 
 
 (i) Tine produce of the Indirect taxes for all France was ; 
 
 In <84!9 
 1 S(0 
 1815 'I 
 18 : 5.2 
 18oS 
 
 7 1 713 00;>fr. !18i4 
 738 242,0(10,, ! J8:i5 
 7:17 .43 000 ,, I 18:i0 
 804,334,000 „ 1837 
 
 8.4(>,8 4,000 ,, 1 1838 
 
 847 2o0,000fr. 1 1859 
 930,870,00 ,, \ 18j0 
 
 1,020 207 000 ,, 1 1831 
 I 0:52,713,1.00 ., I 1832 
 l’09l,728,l)0 I „ 1 1803 
 
 l,004,G44.000rr, 
 1, 73,712,000 ,, 
 
 1.009.500.000 ,, 
 
 1.190.087.000 ,, 
 
 1.244.377.000 ,, 
 
 Among the items of 1863 we find: Regisiration and Mortgage 
 dues, 32 ! 4 , 576,000 fr.; Stamps, so, 360 ,ooo fr.; Customs, Naviga- 
 tion, &(C., 69 , 444,000 fr. ; Salt-duty, 22,956,000 fr.; Potable 
 liquors, 224,985,000 fr,; Letters, and Duly on sending money, 
 73,024,0 00 fr. ; Tobacco Monopoly, 236, 505 , 000 francs. Home- 
 grown, Colonial, and Foreign Sugar, 106 , 656,000 fr. The col- 
 lection of taxes for all France costs 151 millions of francs. 
 
44 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 20 fr. Of the females, 17,2oO earn from 50 c. to 1 tr. 25 c. ; 
 88,700 from 1 fr. 50 c. to 4 fr ; and 700 from 4 fr. 50 c! 
 to 10 fr. Out of 100 workmen, 71 have their own furni- 
 ture, 1 8 live in lodging-houses, and 1 1 with their masters : 
 87 per cent, can read and write. The different manufac- 
 tories contain 1,185 steam-engines, representing 9,748 horse- 
 power, and 2,997 sewing-machines. 
 
 There are about 1,000 manufactories of haberdashery, and 
 1 4 1 of paper-hangings ; the shawl trade counts 752 looms ; the 
 number of maisons de modes is 879 ; of ready-made clothes 
 shops, 225 ; stay-makers, 653 ; hatters, 644 ; cabinet-makers, 
 1,915 ; carvers, 222 ; upholsterers, 519; house painters, 
 1,800; looking-glasses, 120 ; bronze and gilt work, 450. 
 
 Out of the 101,171 establishments, 64,000 continue with- 
 out interruption throughout the year. The remaining 37,171 
 suffer more or less from slack work and absolute interruption. 
 In some of these the slack season endures from two to four 
 months ; but as these periods are regular in their recurrence, 
 both master and man can provide against them (l). 
 
 Rag-collectors, or chiffonniers, realize from 1 fr. 50 c. to 
 2 fr. a day. Young women in shops receive their food, wash- 
 ing, and lodging, and are paid from 300 to 700 fr. per 
 annum. Apprentices generally have board and lodging ; 
 sometimes their washing and a trifling salary. The ordinary 
 expense of a journeyman is from 30 to 40 sous daily for 
 food, and from 7 to 10 fr. per month for lodging. (2) A great 
 part of the Paris workmen do no work on Monday or on Sun- 
 day afternoon. Their condition has been observed to improve 
 nearly in proportion as Savings’ Banks have increased. (See 
 these institutions at p. 129.) 
 
 Of the manufactures existing in Paris, or its vicinity, 
 three belong to the government, viz., one, the Gobelins, for 
 tapestry and carpets ; one for snuff and tobacco ; and the third 
 for porcelain. The first of these does not sell its produce ; but 
 
 (1) The average yearly amount, calculated on the last sixteen 
 years, of the exports from Paris, is 130, 000,000 fr. The number 
 of tradesmen’s licences annually issued in Paris is upwards of 
 
 65.000, producing 11 millions a-year. The capital invested in 
 all France in trades and manufactures now amounts to 100,000 
 millions of francs, instead of 50,000 millions in 1830. France 
 has 150,000 large trade establishments, employing 1,500,000 
 operatives, in addition to 5,000,000 employed in minor trades, 
 and 500,000 steam horse-power, representing the labour of 
 
 10.000. 000 men. 
 
 ( 2 ) A sum of 3,000,000 fr., resulting from the confiscation of 
 the Orleans property, had been since 1863 jilaced at the disposal 
 
CONSUMPTION OF PARIS. 45 
 
 the secondl mrnishes nearly a fifth of the snuff and tobacco 
 consumed in the country, the sale of which amounts to 
 
 140.000. 0100 fr. The third, at Sevres, is rather a laboratory 
 for useful experiments in the manufacture of porcelain ; its 
 sales, thoiugh very great, barely cover the expenses. 
 
 CONSUMPTION. — The following is an average statement of 
 the consunnption of Paris : — 
 
 Wine, 21,700,000 hectolitres (i); spirits, io 6 ,ooo h.; cider, 
 
 80.000 h.; Ifine oil, 9 ,ooo h. ; vinegar, 36 ,ooo h.; beer, 370 , ooo h.; 
 Imilk, i,20to,ooo h. ; syrups, 7 ,oooh.; orange-flower water, 
 Hl ,000 h. ; butchers’ meat, 334,ooo,ooo kilogrammes; pork, 
 
 18.000. 000 k.; hams, sausages, i, 8 oo,ooo k.; pies, potted meats, 
 
 302.000 k.;; cheese, 3,000,000 k.; bread, 300,000,000 k.; sea-nsh, 
 
 1 1 . 000 . 000)fr.; oysters, 2,500, ooofr.;fresh-water fish, 1,500, ooofr. ; 
 
 poultry amd game, 21,000,000 fr. ; butter, 25,000,000 fr. ; eggs, 
 
 13.000. 0001 fr. ; grapes, 4,200,000 k.; pastry, 5,000,000 k.; su- 
 gar, 7,500 ,, 000 k. ; jams, 920,000 k.; ices, custards, 550,000 k.; 
 honey, 2400,000 k.; coffee, 3 , 000,000 k.; chocolate, 4 , 000,000 k.; 
 common frruit, 24 0,000,000 k.; melons, 1,000,000 fr. ; oranges, 
 lemons, 2 :, 000,000 k. ; dried fruit, 4 , 000,000 k.; pine apples, 
 40,400 k. ; greens, 4 50,000,000 k. ; pulse, 8,600,000 k.; truffles, 
 
 26.000 k.;; salt, 11,500,000 k.; mustard, 270,000 k.; spices, 
 
 450.000 k..; mushrooms, 2,525,000 small baskets; chesnuts, 
 
 3.000 hect..;walnuts, 4,500 sacs ; hay, 18,000,000 bundles ; straw, 
 
 26 . 000 . 000 ) bundles ; oats, 150,000,000k. ; ice, 8 , 5 oo,oook. ( 2 j 
 The ordlinary consumption of Paris in grain and flour, sold 
 
 at the Hallle au Ble, is estimated at 2,000 sacks, each weighing 
 1 59 kilogn’ammes, daily. The price of bread, no longer offi- 
 cially regmlated by the authorities, varies with the price of flour, 
 but may be averaged at 3 s ous a-poun d for.bgst quality. ( 3 ) In 
 the winteir of 1846-1847 it was aTHear as 6% sous. 
 
 of the Mimister of the Interior, in order to enter into arrange- 
 ments witih capitalists fo r building houses for the w orking classes . 
 But this pilan not succeeding, the Emperor, in 1856 , bought 
 
 18.000 squiare metres of ground on the Boulevard Mazas, where 
 such housies for persons of limited income have now been built. 
 Since 186'.2 Count de Madre has built 86 houses behind the 
 Hdpital St.. Louis, in the rue St.Maur and the adjoining ground. 
 Each aparttment, let at 210 fr. a-year, consists of two rooms and 
 a kitchen. There is no distraining for rent, nor is any claimed 
 beforehanid,the insolvent lodger being only exposed to ejection. 
 
 (1) The vineyards of France are estimated at 800,000 acres , 
 producing; 40 millions of hectolitres of wine (v alu eTTo 0 miYIions 
 offr.), whiich pay an octroi-duty of 80 millions of fr., besides 
 120 millioms of francs to the State. 
 
 (2) The consumption of Paris is valued at 1,000,000,000 fr. 
 Even Madirid sends vegetables to the French capital. 
 
 (3) Sincte 1863, the baking trade has been thrown open. The 
 number o)f bakers in Paris is now 846 . In 1700 the average 
 
^ 6 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 The greatest number of oxen for the Paris markets are 
 brought from the departments of Calvados, Maine-et-Loire, 
 Eure, Manche, Orne, Vendee, and Haute-Vieime ; their price 
 varies from 300 to 600 fr. a-head. Cows come from the 
 districts of Maine, Normandy, Beauce, and Brie ; their value is 
 from 190 to 450 fr. Calves come from Auvergne and Nor- 
 mandy, but are bought up by the dealers of Pontoise, and 
 there fattened for the capital ; their average value is from 7 5 
 to 120 fr. Sheep are sent in the greatest numbers from the 
 Seine-et-Oise, Indre, Marne, Orne, and Germany ; they sell from 
 25 to 30 fr. each. The capital employed in the purchase of 
 cattle for Paris last year was upwards of 47,000,000 fr. (l) 
 
 The annual sale of tobacco in Paris is estimated at 2,000,000 
 kilogrammes; wood, 700,000 steres; charcoal, 3,500,000 
 hectolitres ; and coal, 600 , 000,000 hectolitres. 
 
 HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PARIS. 
 
 The origin of Paris and of its founders is involved in great 
 obscurity. A wandering tribe obtained permission of the Se- 
 nones, at a remote period, to settle upon the banks of the 
 Seine. They built huts upon the island now called la Cite, 
 which served as a natural fortress to protect their property 
 from the neighbouring tribes. To their stronghold they gave 
 the name of Lutetia (2), and to themselves that of Parisii. (3) 
 
 Upon the conquest of Gaul by Julius Caesar, he found the 
 
 pi ice of the pound loaf was \ sou ; in 1 763 2 sous ; 3 in 1 839 ; 
 and it is now 4. In 1739 meat cost 9 sous a pound ; its present 
 price is 20 sous. The yearly production of corn in France is 
 8,046,000,000 kil.; consumption: 7,900,000,000 kilos. 
 
 (1) By order of the Minister of the Interior, a book, called 
 btud-book Frangais, for the registration of the short-horned or 
 Durham race of cattle, is published regularly. The following 
 18 , in round numbers, an official statement of the cattle now 
 existing m the 89 departments of France Horses, 3.000,000- 
 asses, 300,000 ; mules, 36o,ooo ; bulls, 300,000 ; oxen, 2^000, 000; 
 cows, 5,800,000, and calves, 2,000,000; sheep, 3.5,000,000 
 including 20,000,000 of the merino, or crosses of the latter 
 with the common breed ; goats, 1,400,000 ; pigs, 4,400,000. 
 
 ( 2 ) Lutetia, from loutou-hesi, dwelling of the wafers. Sequana, 
 beine, from seach, devious, and an, water, river; from avainn. 
 
 (3) Pansu— probably from the Celtic bar or par, a frontier. 
 
I1IST0RICA.L NOTICE. 47 
 
 Parisii one of the 64 tribes of the Gallic confederation, whose 
 chief town was Lutetia. Two bridges established communi- 
 cations with the opposite banks of the Seine, w'hich were 
 covered with extensive marshes or gloomy forests, and the in- 
 habitants, who were remarkably herce, supported themselves 
 chiefly by hunting and fishing. Under the dominion of the 
 Romans, “this tribe remained in the spie state of insignificance 
 as before ; their progress in civilisation was slow, and even 
 the worship of the Roman gods with difficulty superseded the 
 human sacrifices of the Druids. Some antiquarian remains 
 dug up from beneath the choir of the Cathedral of Notre 
 Dame, and which are now deposited in the remaining 
 vault of the Palais des Thermes, lead to the conclusion that 
 temples were erected there to Jupiter and Mercury. In 
 the year 54 B. C., Csesar convoked at Lutetia an assembly of 
 the nations of Gaul. In the general rebellion of the Gallic na- 
 tions, in the following year, Lutetia was burnt by the Gauls to 
 prevent its falling into the hands of the Romans ; but it sub- 
 sequently came into their power with the rest of Gaul. 
 The Rom an laws and a municipal government were gradually 
 introduced, and the city was called Lutetia Parisiorum. 
 
 During; the next three centuries the place is hardly noticed. 
 The emperor Julian, between A. D. 358 and A. D. 3 Go, remodelled 
 the goveniment of Gaul, gave stability to the Romati laws, and 
 equalized the privileges of the various towns. Lutetia changed 
 its name to Parisii, obtained political franchises, and the dig- 
 nity of a city. The trade of Paris was in the hands of a trad- 
 ing company, called Nautm Parisiaci, which existed long 
 after the fall of the Romans. For 500 years of Roman do 
 mination, Paris was the residence of a prefect. A palace 
 was erected in the Cite for municipal purposes, and another on 
 the soutlh bank of the Seine, remains of which may still be 
 seen. A,n arena was formed upon the declivity of the hill of 
 St. Victcr, and a cemetery near where the Lycee St. Louis now 
 stands ; an aqueduct was constructed from Chaillot, remains 
 of which were discovered in the last century in the Place de la 
 Concorde and the Palais Royal ; and a second aqueduct, to 
 convey the waters of Arcueil to the Palais des Thermes. Con- 
 stantine and Constantins visited the capital of the Gauls; Ju- 
 lian passted three winters in it; Valentinian issued several 
 laws here, which are published in his code; and Gratian, his 
 son, lost a battle under its walls, which cost him the empire. 
 
 According to a legend of the monks of St. Denis, the gospel 
 was first preached at Paris, about the year 250, by St. Denis 
 the AreO'p^igitc, who suffered martyrdom at Montmartre. As 
 early as the reign of Valentinian I. a chapel dedicated to 
 
48 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 St. Stephen was erected on the spot where Jupiter was wor- 
 shipped, and where the cathedral of Notre Dame now stands. 
 
 In 406, Gaul suffered greatly from the incursions of hordes 
 of barbarians from the north. In 445, the Sicambri, of the 
 league of the Franks, crossing the Rhine, made themselves 
 masters of the cities situated on its banks, and, marching thence 
 to Paris, stormed it. The Roman government, however, still 
 lingered on in Gaul, in the last stage of existence, when Chil- 
 deric, king of Tournay, having died in 481, his son Clodovech, 
 or Clovis, in 486 marched against the Roman general Siagrius, 
 whom he routed ; and, extending his conquests by degrees, he 
 made himself master of Paris, in 494 or 496. Here he mar- 
 ried Clotilde, embraced Christianity, and built a church to St. 
 Peter and St. Paul, but which shortly after was dedicated te 
 Ste. Genevieve, who died in his reign. At this period the island 
 was surrounded by walls with gates and towers. Childebert 
 built the abbey of St. Germain des Pres and church of St. 
 Germain FAuxerrois. The walls built by Clovis existed until 
 Louis VI., in order to defend himself from his feudal lords, 
 protected the faubourgs on the north and south by a wall. 
 
 Under the kings of the Merovingian dynasty, which lasted 
 256 years, the arts, laws, and literature, introduced by the 
 Romans into Gaul, fell into decay. Few of the princes of the 
 second or Carlovingian dynasty resided at Paris Charlemagne 
 afforded powerful protection to letters and the sciences, and did 
 more for the establishment of the monarchical authority than 
 any of his predecessors, but, under his feeble successors, Paris 
 became the private patrimony of hereditary counts. In 845 
 the Normans, attracted by the wealth of the churches and con- 
 vents, made a descent upon Paris; they sacked and burned it 
 in 857, and again besieged it in 885. After appealing in vain 
 to Charles le Chauve for succour, the Parisians, by their own 
 efforts, seconded by the valour of Count Eudes, or Odo, com- 
 pelled the enemy, at the end of two years, to raise the siege. 
 Charles was then deposed, and the crown given to Eudes, in 
 whose family it became hereditary in the person ol Hugues Ca- 
 pet, elected king in 987- In the first year of his reign he be- 
 gan the palace which now bears the name of Palais de Justice. 
 The inhabitants commenced building in all directions ; and so 
 great was the increase of the city that it was divided into four 
 quarters, whence the term quartier, to express a division of 
 Paris. At that period, however, the city was not very large, 
 as ten men sufficed to collect the taxes. The duties of the 
 northern gate, situated at the intersection of the rue St. Mar- 
 tin with the new rue de Rivoli, produced, under Louis le Gros, 
 only 12 fr a-year (600 fr. present money). This monarch re- 
 
HISTORICAL NOTICE. 49 
 
 built the Louvre, which existed as early as the time of Dago- 
 bert. Bishop Maurice de Sully began the foundations of Notre 
 Dame, the first stone of which was laid in 1163, by Pope 
 Alexander III. ; and the Templars erected a palace upon tL 
 spot where the Marche du Temple is situated. Under the 
 early reigns of the third dynasty, many privileges were con- 
 ferred upon the Parisians, A royal prevot administered jus- 
 tice in the king’s name, and a prevot des marchands watched 
 over the municipal interest. The schools of Paris became 
 celebrated, and in the I4th century colleges were founded. 
 
 Philip Augustus built several churches and the tower of the 
 Louvre of that time ; he caused streets to be paved, and for- 
 ! titled the city with a wall and turrets, which, beginning on 
 the right bank above the Pout des Arts, and proceeding 
 northward as far as the rue Grenier St. Lazare, ended on the 
 Quai des Ormes ; on the left bank it commenced near the pre- 
 sent site of the Palais de I’lnstitut, and, after running south- 
 ward to the rue des Fosses St. Jacques, took an easterly direc- 
 tion, and ended at the Quai de la Tournelle. The river was bar- 
 red by a heavy chain fastened to piles, and supported byboats. 
 Paris then formed three divisions, la Cite, in the centre ; la Ville,' 
 on the North ; and I’Universite, on the south of the river. In 
 1250, Robert Sorbon founded his schools in the quarter still 
 called de la Sorbonne, which was also named le pays latin. 
 Under St. Louis many vexatious customs were abolished, a 
 better system of juris;prudence introduced, and many religious 
 and commercial institutions established. A body of munici- 
 pal troops was fonned, and a night patrol organized. An hos- 
 pital for the blind, a school of surgery, and a body of notaries 
 were instituted. Philippe le Hardi improved the streets and 
 highways ; and Philippe le Bel established several courts of 
 justice. During the captivity of King John in England Paris 
 was agitated by the faction of the Maillotins, headed by Etienne 
 Marcel, prevot des marchands, and instigated by Charles le 
 Mauvais. Marcel was however slain by his own partisans 
 and the Dauphin quelled the revolt. ’ 
 
 Under Charles V., the faubourgs being much extended and 
 in danger from the incursions of the English, new ditches and 
 walls were begun in 1367, and completed in sixteen years 
 During this period the Bastille and the Palais des Tournelles 
 were built, and the Louvre repaired and enlarged. Paris was 
 then divided into 16 quarters, and contained 1084 acres of 
 ground. Charles V. was succeeded in 1330 by Charles VI 
 Who became insane in 1392, and died in 1422. During this 
 disastrous reign, the revenues of the state were squandered 
 in the struggle between the dukes of Orleans and Bourgogne ; 
 
50 general information. 
 
 the factions of the Bourguignons and Armagmcs distracted the 
 country, and the English occupied Paris in 1421. The Pont 
 St. Michel was built in 1384, and the Pont Notre Dame m 
 1414. Under Charles VII. the English were driven from Pa- 
 ris, in 1436 ; and the Greek language was taught for the first 
 time in the University, which contained 25,000 students. Un- 
 der him and the succeeding monarch, Paris was desolated by 
 famine, the plague, and by wolves, to such a degree, that in 
 1466 the malefactors of all countries were invited thither as 
 a sanctuary, with a view of repeopling the capital. Notwith- 
 standing the dreadful mortality, the population, under Louis 
 XL, amounted to 300,000 souls, and the space comprised 
 within the walls was 1100 acres. In 147 0 printing was in- 
 troduced, and the post-office established. Lrancis I. gave a 
 new aspect to Paris. The old castle of the Louvie, an as- 
 semblage of towers and heavy walls, was demolished, and a 
 palace commenced on its site. Several churches were rebuilt, 
 a royal college for gratuitous instruction in the sciences and 
 learned languages was founded, better communications opened 
 between the different parts of the city, the fortifications en- 
 larged and repaired, and the rebuilding of the Faubourg St. 
 Germain, ruined during the preceding wars, commenced. In 
 1533, the Hotel de Ville was begun, the Quai de la Tournelle 
 was formed in 1552, the Place Maubert in 1553, and the pa- 
 lace and garden of the Tuileries in 1563. About the same 
 time the Arsenal was constructed. Under Henry II. the col- 
 lege of Ste. Barbe was endowed, a protestant church established 
 in° defiance of his persecutions, and the coins of the realm bore 
 for the first time the effigy of the king. The wars of religion, 
 and their disastrous consequences, among which the Massacre 
 of St. Bartholomew was the most conspicuous, arrested for a 
 while the progress of letters and the fine arts, until Henry IV., 
 having restored peace to the kingdom, turned his attention to 
 plans for promoting his subjects’ happiness and embellishing 
 the capital. During bis reign the Pont Neuf was finished, the 
 hospital of St. Louis founded ; the Place Royale, Hie rue Dau- 
 phinc and the neighbouring (iuays, were laid out ; great 
 alditions were made to the palace of the Tuileries, and the 
 gallery which joins it to the Louvre was partly constructed. 
 
 Under Louis XHl., the Palais Cardinal, now Palais Royal, 
 was begun by Richelieu, and the Luxembourg by Marie de 
 Mcdicis ; the Cours la Reine was planted ; the quays and bridges 
 of the He St. Louis constructed ; magnificent hotels arose in 
 the Fauliourg St. Germain; the college, afterwards called 
 Louis Ic Grand, the Academie Royale, and the Garden of 
 Plants, w'ere founded; the Faubourg St. Honore became united 
 
HISTORICAL NOTICE. 5 1 
 
 with the villages of Roule and Ville-rEveque, and the Faubourg 
 Saint Antoine, with Popincourt and Reuilly. 
 
 Louis XIV. completed the projects of Henry IV. and Louis 
 XIII. More than eighty new streets were opened, and most of 
 the old ones improved and embellished. The Place Vendome 
 and Place des Victoires were formed. Thirty-three churches 
 were erected, many of the quays were faced with stone, and 
 a new one formed ; and, for the greater convenience of the 
 courts of justice, the Grand Chatelet was erected. The Hotel 
 des Invalides, a foundling hospital, the Observatory, the co- 
 lonnade of the Louvre, and the Pont Royal were completed, 
 and the Champs Elysees planted. The Tuileries were enlarged, 
 and the present garden laid out. The College Mazarin, now 
 the Palais de I’lnstitut, was founded, as also the manufactory 
 of the Gobelins. The old city gates were superseded by 
 triumphal arches, of whieh those of St. Denis and St. Martin 
 remain ; and the boulevards became promenades. 
 
 Paris under Louis XV. occupied a space of 3342 acres. 
 Among the improvements of this reign are some of the sump- 
 tuous hotels of the Faubourgs St. Germain and St. Honore, the 
 Palais Bourbon, now the palace of the Legislative Body, the 
 church of Ste. Genevieve, (the Pantheon,) the Place de la Con- 
 corde, the manufactory of porcelain at Sevres, the southern 
 boulevards, and several fountains, among which that of the 
 rue de Grenelle, by Bouchardon. Another foundling hospital 
 was established, the Ecole Militaire, the Hotel des Monnaies, 
 College de France, facades of St. Sulpice and St. Eustache 
 were built, and the Garden of Plants was enlarged. 
 
 Louis XVI. continued the church of Ste. Genevieve, com 
 menced that of the Madeleine, built St. Philippe du Roule, and 
 several others. He also repaired the Palais de Justice, and 
 founded or enlarged several charitable institutions. TlxeThedtre 
 Frangais, the French, Italian, and Comic opera-houses, and 
 other theatres, arose in quick succession. The old markets 
 were enlarged, and new ones formed. Steam-engines were 
 established on the banks of the Seine, to accelerate the distri- 
 bution of w'ater to different quarters of the city; the Pont de 
 la Concorde formed a communication between the Faubourg 
 St. Honore and that of St. Germain, and the octroi-wall and 
 barriers were built (seep. 278). The new boulevards and the 
 villages of Chaillot, le Roule, and ]\Ionceaux, were enclosed 
 within Paris, thus adding 8,560 acres to its area, and the 
 galleries of the Palais Royal, furnished with shops of every kind, 
 gave the Parisians an idea of the bazaars of the East. 
 
 The local history of Paris during the first revolution is in 
 fact the history of the revolution itself. Wc need therefore 
 
52 
 
 GENERAL 
 
 ''information. 
 
 i 
 
 hardly advert to the taking of the Bastille on July 14, 1789, 
 
 1 or the erection of the guillotine on the Place Louis XV., now 
 \ Place de la.,Qoncorde. Many monuments of the middle ages 
 ■ were demSishe^^m'that eventful time, and the fine arts threat- 
 ened with destruction. But under the Directory the rau;seura 
 of the Louvre was opened, and under Napoleon I. Pariis as- 
 sumed more than its former splendour. The Place du Car- 
 rousel was cleared of the unsightly buildings which stO'Od in 
 front of the palace ; the northern gallery connecting the Liouvre 
 with the Tuileries was begun ; the garden of the TuUeries 
 embellished ; the magnificent rue de Rivoli commenced ; the 
 rue Castiglione, connecting the latter with the Place Vendome, 
 rue de la Paix, Boulevards and Chaussee d’Antin, was de- 
 signed and executed ; a new and spacious market formed on 
 / tlie site of the convert des Jacobins, near the rue St^ Honore ; 
 
 ' another near the'ii^ey oTSlT Martin des Champ's7'and a~thTfj~~ 
 ' near St. Germain des Pres ; three handsome bridges were built : 
 and new quays formed on each bank of the river. The Canal 
 de rOurcq was opened, and, in the basin made at the barriere 
 de la Villette, a junction was effected between it and the Canals 
 of St. Denis and St. Martin, while an ample supply of water 
 was thus afforded to the capital. The Place de la Bastille, 
 intersected by the latter canal, was begun, and near it a vast 
 granary of reserve was constructed. The Bank of France was 
 established in the Hotel de Toulouse, and a magnificent Bourse 
 or Exchange begun. Fifteen new fountains were erected in 
 different parts of the city, and several wide streets and spacious 
 markets were opened. The palace and garden of the Luxem- 
 bourg were improved and enlarged, and the column of the 
 Place Venddme erected. Three great cemeteries were formed 
 without the barriers ; and five public slaughter-houses, called 
 abattoirs, were constructed at the extremities of the faubourgs. 
 The churches devastated during the revolution of 1789 were 
 repaired and embellished. More than £4,000,000 were ex- 
 pended on these works and improvements in 12 years. 
 
 Paris was taken on the 30th March, 1814, by the allied 
 forces under the command of Prince Schwarzenberg, after a 
 gallant defence by the garrison, supported by the National 
 Guard, and the students of the Polytechnic and Veterinary 
 School's. On the 3 1st the allied sovereigns made their entry, a 
 capitulation having been signed with the authorities of the city. 
 
 Louis XVIII. , on his restoration, extended the town, com- 
 pleted the canals; constructed the Chamber of Deputies, three 
 bridges, and several barriers ; erected statues of the kings of 
 France in different places ; built a chapel in the Temple, 
 another in the '/'Anjou, and a third on the site where the 
 
HISTORICAL NOTICE. 53 
 
 Due de Berri was assassinated (see p. 221) Several mar- 
 kets and hospitals were finished or enlarged, the works at the 
 Entrepot des Vins and Grenier de Reserve resumed, and the 
 lighting and cleansing of the city much improved. 
 
 Under Charles X. the architectural alterations of Paris were 
 chiefly of an ecclesiastical character. The church of St. Ger- 
 main des Pres was restored ; the Madeleine progressed ; at Gros 
 Caillou the church of St. Pierre was erected ; and other new 
 [ churches rose from their foundations. Three new bridges were 
 built ; many of the Passages that now embellish Paris were 
 begun, and the suburbs continued to increase rapidly. 
 
 The people of France, dissatisfied with the return of the 
 Bourbons through the aid of foreign bayonets, were not about 
 this time very warmly attached to the reigning dynasty. The 
 imprudent acts of the Villele and Polignac ministries increased 
 their dissatisfaction, till the famous ordinances of July gave the 
 signal for a general outbreak at Paris. During the 27 th. 28th, 
 and 29th of July 1830, upwards of four thousand barricades 
 were raised, and after an obstinate resistance on the part of the 
 Swiss Guards and the Gendarmerie, commanded by Marshal 
 Marmont, Charles X. was dethroned, and the younger branch 
 called to the throne by the people in the person of Louis Phi- 
 lippe. Under the reign of that prince, the garden and Palace ' 
 of the Tuileries were much altered, some of the quays widened, 
 those on the north planted, and several new bridges built. 
 
 A great number of handsome netv streets were opened, the 
 Hotel de Ville was quadrupled in size, the Madeleine, the 
 churches of Notre Dame de Lorette, St. Vincent de Paule, 
 and St. Denis, were finished ; the Place de la Concorde was 
 completely remodelled, and the Obelisk of Luxor reared in its 
 centre ; the Triumphal Arch at the Barriere de I’Etoile was 
 completed , as were the magnificent palaces of the Quai d’Orsay 
 and of the Fine Arts. Vast works were undertaken for the 
 drainage of the streets ; gas was generally introduced through- 
 out the town ; and health and comfort were more consulted 
 in the improved construction of private edifices, (l) 
 
 ( 1 ) The following showsthe area of Paris at different periods ; 
 
 Under Julius Caesar.. 
 
 . . B.C. 56 
 
 Hectares 
 
 15 
 
 » Philip Augustus. . 
 
 . . A.D. 1211 
 
 253 
 
 » Charles VI. . 
 
 . . . 1383 
 
 439 
 
 » Henry III. 
 
 . . . 1581 
 
 483 
 
 » Louis XIII. . 
 
 . . . 1634 
 
 568 
 
 » Louis XI 7. 
 
 . . . 1686 
 
 4,104 
 
 ” Louis XV. 
 
 . . . I7l7 
 
 1,337 
 
 » Louis Philippe 
 
 . . . 1848 
 
 3,524 
 
 » Napoleon HI, , 
 
 , . . I860 
 
 7,802 
 
54 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 Such was the state of apparent prosperity in the capital of 
 France in the beginning of 1 848, when political errors brought , 
 about the memorable revolution of February. The sudden | 
 change from royalty to a commonwealth generated a series | 
 of public misfortunes, which put a stop to all improvement ; i 
 and the greatest efforts on the part of the authorities were | 
 hardly equal to the task of satisfying the cravings of a host of 
 starving workmen, by employing them in the demolition of j, 
 some hundred decayed houses near the church of St. Eustache. 
 
 In 1 849, the ravages committed by the cholera at last roused | 
 the republican government to the conviction that the health j 
 of the metropolis required the execution of great works of i: 
 public utility. It therefore agreed to share with the city of ; 
 Paris the expense of prolonging the rue de Rivoli ; the new ; 
 halles, now one of the ornaments of Paris, were also com- 
 menced, and many a filthy street was effaced from the map. 
 
 The events of Dec. 2d, 1851, which caused the overthrow I 
 of the Constitution of 1848, and the proclamation of the Em- |, 
 pire on the same day of the following year, mark the com- j 
 mencement of an era of improvements, such as neither Paris, : 
 nor any other capital of Europe ever witnessed before. The ; 
 rue de Rivoli has been extended to the rue St. Antoine ; the i 
 works of the Louvre and Place du Carrousel, commenced in 
 1852, are all completed; the Boulevards de Sebastopol, de 
 Malesherbes, and du Prince Eugene have been opened ; the rail- 
 way round Paris constructed, and extensive embellishments exe- i 
 cuted in the Bois de Boulogne and in that of Vincennes ; the j 
 rue des Ecoles connects the principal establishments of pub - 1 
 lie instruction, the central maiket has been opened to traffic, j 
 and Paris has been extended to the fortifications. Other j 
 works of bewildering magnitude are begun, and a few years; 
 hence Paris will have undergone such changes as were never : 
 effected in so short a time in any capital of Europe. (1) P 
 
 (i) The following are the principal sums laid out during thej 
 Empire in improving and hcaulifj’ing Paris: Junction of the 
 Louvre and the Tuileries, 62 ,- 500,000 fr. ; repairs of historical 
 monuments, 2 ,i 7 o,ooo fr. ; Palace of the Elys 6 e, 1,-100,000 tr. p 
 Boulevard de Strasbourg, 3,149,000 fi'. ; Boulevard de Sebas-r 
 topot iright banlO, 23,500,000 fr. ; Monument to Marshal Ney,, 
 
 50.000 fr.; Reiioious edifices, 5 , 6 18,01 1 fr.; Tomb of Napoleon I., | 
 
 865.000 fr.; Hotel of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 4 , 500, 000 fr.;. 
 
 Municipal and scholastic buildings, :i 4 , 8 'j 4 ,i 05 Ir. ; Palais de| 
 rindusfrie, i4.880.ooo fr. Boulevard SI. Michel and Boulevard| 
 St. Germain (loft bank), 42.1 87,728 fr. ; Penis des Invalides,) 
 d’lfena, andd’Arcole, 4, 2 50,000 fr. ; Cathedral of Paris, 3 , 500 ,oootr.’ 
 barracls, 7,850,ooo fr. ; streets, walks, gardens, 09 , 328 ,oi 8 Ir. ;| 
 New Opera, 22,000,000 fr, ; total, 323 , 641,892 fr, j 
 
TABLE OF FRENCH KINGS. 55 
 
 The following table of the Kings of France, with the dates 
 fif their accession, and commencing with the first monarch 
 of the second or Carlovingian race, will be found useful. 
 
 Pepin 
 
 A.D. 
 7 52 
 
 Charlemagne. . 
 
 768 
 
 Louis 1. Le Debonnaire. . 
 
 814 
 
 Charles II. Le Chauve. 
 
 840 
 
 Louis 11. Le Begue. . 
 
 877 
 
 Louis HI. and Carlonian. 
 
 879 
 
 Charles Le Gros (regent) , 
 
 884 
 
 Eudes. , . . . 
 
 888 
 
 Charles III. Le Simple 
 
 898 
 
 Raoul 
 
 923 
 
 Louis IV. d’Outremer. 
 
 936 
 
 Lolhaire 
 
 954 
 
 Louis V 
 
 986 
 
 Hugh Capet. 
 
 987 
 
 Robert. . . . . 
 
 996 
 
 Henry I 
 
 1031 
 
 Philippe I. . . . 
 
 1060 
 
 Louis VI. Xe Groe. 
 
 1108 
 
 Louis VII. Le Jeune. . 
 
 1137 
 
 Philippe II. Auguste. 
 
 1180 
 
 Louis Vlir. . . . 
 
 1223 
 
 Louis IX. St. Louis. 
 
 1226 
 
 PltiTippe IH.' XeTTdVdi. . 
 
 1270 
 
 Philippe IV. Le Bel. 
 
 1285 
 
 Louis X. Le Ilutin. 
 
 1314 
 
 Philippe V. Xe Long. 
 
 1316 
 
 Charles IV. Le Bel. . 
 
 1322 
 
 Philippe VI. De Valois. . 
 
 1328 
 
 Jean, Xe Ron. 
 
 1350 
 
 A.D. 
 
 Charles V. Le Sage . . 136 4 
 
 Charles Yl. . . 1380 
 
 Charles Yll. . . . 1422 
 
 Louis XI 1461 
 
 Charles YIII. . . . 1483 
 
 Louis XII 1498 
 
 Francis I I5i5 
 
 Henry II 154 7 
 
 Francis II 15 59 
 
 Charles IX. . . . 1560 
 
 Henry III i574 
 
 Henry IV 1589 
 
 Louis XIII. Xe Jttsle . . 1610 
 
 Louis XIV. Le Grand. . 1643 
 
 Louis XV 1715 
 
 Louis XVI. . . .1774 
 
 States-General. . . 17 89 
 
 Constituent Assembly. . 1789 
 
 Legislative Assembly. . i79i 
 Republicand Convention. 1792 
 Reign of Terror. . . 1793 
 
 Directory 1795 
 
 Consulate 17 99 
 
 Napoleon, Emperor ■ . 1804 
 
 Louis XVIII. Restored. . 1814 
 
 Charles X. . . .1825 
 
 Louis Philippe. . . 1830 
 
 Republic, — L. Napoleon. 1848 
 Napoleon 111. Emperor. . 1852 
 
 The following is a list of the most remarkable spots in 
 Paris, all mentioned in their respective places. (See Index.) 
 
 Places of Historical Note. — House where the illustrious 
 Corneille died. — Spot where the Duede Berri was assassinated. 
 — Rue St. Honore, where Henry IV. was murdered. — House 
 wherein Moliere died. — Scene of Fieschi’s Infernal Machine. 
 — Street where the Connetable Clisson was waylaid. — Tomb 
 of Lafayette. — Tomb of Boileau. — Hotel where Voltaire died. 
 — House where Marat was assassinated by Charlotte Corday. 
 — Burial-place of James II. — Spot where Marshal Ney was shot. 
 — Old house where Gabrielle, the mistress of Henry IV., lived. 
 
 Scenes of Popular Disturbances. The Champ de Mars. — 
 Elysee Napoleon, — Place de la Concorde. — Church of St. Roch. 
 — Tuileries. — Place du Carrousel. — Corner of rues St. Honore 
 and Richelieu. — Palais Royal. — Place des Victoires. — Louvre. 
 —Pont des Arts. — St. Germain I’Auxerrois, — Church of St. 
 
66 
 
 GENERAL INFORMATION, 
 
 Merri. — Rue Transnonain, now rue Beaubourg. — March4 des 
 Innocents. — Hotel de Ville. — 'Pont d’Arcole. — Notre Dame.— • 
 Site of Archbishop’s Palace. — Palais de Justice. — Temple.— 
 Place de la Bastille. — Faubourg St. Antoine. — Porte St. Mar- 
 tin. — Porte St. Denis. — Faubourg St. Marceau. — Convent des 
 Dames Carmelites. — Barracks of rue Babylone. 
 
 GOYERNMEIVT. CIVIL. MILITARY. AND JUDICIAL. 
 
 By the Senatus-consultum of Nov. 7th, and the subsequent 
 decree of Dec. 2, 1852, the Imperial dignity has been revived 
 in the person of Louis Napoleon Bonaparte, (1) now Napoleon 
 III., who, on Jan. 29, 1853, married the present Empress 
 Eugenia, Countess of Teba, (2) daughter to Count de Montijo, 
 senator and grandee of Spain. The throne descends to the issue 
 of the Emperor, (3) and, in default, to that of the late Prince 
 Jerome, his uncle. (4) The membersof the Imperial family having 
 a right to succeed to the throne, are styled French princes ; 
 the first-born of the Emperor has the title of Imperial Prince. 
 
 The EMPEROR governs the country constitutionally, con- 
 jointly with a Senate, a Legislative Body, and a Council of 
 State. He executes the laws, and exercises paternal power 
 over all the members of the Imperial family. He appoints the 
 senators and presides at the sittings both of the Senate and Coun- 
 cil of State whenever bethinks fit. His civil list comprises the 
 dotation of the Crown, which is fixed by a Senatus-consultum 
 at the commencement of every reign (it amounts at present to 
 25 millions of francs), and all the palaces, museums, libraries, 
 and jewels belonging to the State, and which he cannot 
 alienate without the sanction of a law. His private domain 
 consists of whatever property he may acquire by purchase 
 or inheritance, during his reign. — The princes and princesses 
 of the Imperial family enjoy an annual dotation of 1 , 500,000 fr. 
 
 SENATE. — The Senate is the guardian and interpreter of 
 the Constitution, and regulates all matters which the latter has 
 
 (t) Born on the 20lh of April, 1808. 
 
 (s) Napoleon Eugene Louis Jean Joseph, Prince Imperial of 
 France, born March leth, is 56 . 
 
 (4) Prince Napoleon Joseph Charles Paul, son to Prince 
 Jerome, was born on the plh of Sept. is 22 ; and on Ihe 30th 
 Jan. i8s9, was married to Princess Clotilde of Sardinia, born on 
 the 2 d of March 4 843. Their first son, Napoleon Victor Jerome 
 Frederic, was born on July isth, 1862 ; and their second, Napo- 
 leon Louis Joseph Jerome, on July leth. 4864 , 
 
 Born on the 5th of May, 4 826. 
 
LEGISLATIVE BODY. 57 
 
 not specially provided for. It may refuse its sanction to laws 
 contrary to the Constitution, or endangering the safety of the 
 country. It may propose modifications of the Constitution, 
 provided they be not at variance with its fundamental prin 
 ciples, in which case they must be submitted to the universal 
 suffrage of the people. It takes cognizance of petitions. 
 The number of Senators is about 170, including the 
 French princes, who become members of it from the age 
 of 18, the French Cardinals, and the Marshals and 
 Admirals of France. The Senators are named for life, 
 and receive a dotation of 30,000 fr. per annum. The Em- 
 peror appoints the President and vice-presidents of the Senate ; 
 their functions last one year. The sittings of this body are 
 not public. The members of the Senate are divided by lot 
 into five bureaux. Each bureau examines the measures laid 
 before the Senate, and elects one of its members to sit in a 
 commission for the further consideration of the measure in 
 question, after which the coimnission names a reporter. The 
 Senate may, however, decide on a measure without referring 
 it to the bureaux. It only pronounces on the expediency of 
 the promulgation of any bill, either proceeding directly from 
 the Government, or previously voted by the Legislative Body, 
 and cannot therefore amend it ; but it may amend Senatus- 
 consultums, either proposed by the Emperor, or originating 
 from a Senator. The latter, to be taken into consideration, 
 must have been authorised by three at least of the five 
 bureaus. No amendment can be taken into consideration 
 unless supported by 5 members. Any Senator may move the 
 presentation of a report to the Emperor on some subject of 
 great national interest. To pass a measure, there must be an 
 absolute majority of the members of the Senate present, pro- 
 vided they exceed one-third of the whole body . To be dis- 
 cussed, a modification of the Constitution requires the signa- 
 tures otf ten Senators, if the motion originates with a Senator. 
 In all debates, the Government is represented either by 
 Ministers or by Councillors of State appointed by special de- 
 cree. There is no secret ballot. The treasury of the Senate 
 is in the hands of a Grand Referendaire. 
 
 LEGISLATIVE BODY.— It consists of 283 members, elected 
 by universal suffrage, in the proportion of one member for 
 every 32,400 electors. The Legislative Body votes or re- 
 jects the bills presented to it, and the taxes. At its debates the 
 Government is represented as in the Senate. Its members 
 are distributed Ijy lot into nine bureaux for the preliminary 
 consideration of legislative measures. Each bureau elects its 
 own p>resident and secretaries for one month. The bureaux 
 
58 GENERAL INFORMATION, 
 
 proceed in every respect like the bureaux of the Senate. 
 Amendments are sent for consideration to the Council of 
 State (1) The del)ates at the sittings of the Legislative Body 
 first turn on the bill as a whole, and then on the separate 
 articles. The vote is public. Tbe President and vice-pre- 
 sidents of the Legislative Body are named for a year by the 
 Emperor. No minister can be a member of the Legislative 
 Body. No petition can be addressed to it. The Emperor 
 convokes, adjourns and dissolves it ; in which latter case a 
 new one must be convoked within 6 months. The sittings of 
 the Legislative Body are public. Each deputy is named for 6 
 years, receiving 12,500 fr. per annum during an ordinary 
 session, and 2,500 fr. per month during an extraordinary one. 
 
 The Emperor opens the session with a speech from the 
 Throne addressed both to the Senate and Legislative Body. 
 The debates in both Houses are reported by stenographers, 
 and delivered to the daily newspapers, which have the 
 choice either of reproducing the whole, or a part relating 
 to the same subject in cxlvnso, or else of publishing a 
 short summary which the Presidents send regularly in time 
 for the press. 
 
 COUNCIL OF STATE. — This body, the members of which 
 are named by the Emperor, and revocable by him, frames 
 the bills to be presented to the Legislative Body, under 
 the guidance of the Emperor ; as also all regulations of public 
 administration. It solves all difficulties wliicli may arise in 
 administrative matters. The Emperor or a president or vice- 
 president appointed by him presides. It supports the dis- 
 cussion of the bills presented by the Government to the Senate 
 and Legislative Body. The French princes and the ministers 
 have the right of sitting and voting in the Council of State, 
 but the former only after the age of 18, and with the 
 Emperor’s consent. The number of ordinary councillors 
 is now forty-four ; their salary is 25,000 fr. There are 
 besides ordinary Councillors not attached to any particular 
 section, the number of whom is at present seventeen ; seven 
 extraordinary councillors ; forty Masters of Requests, divided 
 
 (I) By a decree of .Ian. i9(h, i8(57, members either of the 
 Senate or Legislative Body may put questions finterpellalionsl to 
 Government, provided these questions be aj)proved of by itwo 
 Imreaux of the Senate or four of the Legislative Body. After 
 discussion either Cliamber may reject the question by voting the 
 “ order of the day,” or else submit it to the eonsideratiori of 
 Goveinment in the following terms : “ The Senate (or Legisla- 
 tive Body) calls the atlention of Government to the subject of 
 the question.” 
 
MINISTERS. 69 
 
 into two classes of twenty each, and eighty auditors, divided 
 into two classes of forty each. A Secretary-General is attached 
 to the Council of State. For the better dispatch of business, 
 the Council of State is divided into six sections, namely, the 
 section of Legislation, Justice, and Foreign Affairs; tlie section 
 of Disputed Affairs ; that of the Interior, Public Instruction, 
 and Worship ; that of Public Works, Agriculture, and Com- 
 merce ; that of War and the Marine, Algeria and the Colonies ; 
 and that of Finance. Each section is presided over by a 
 Councillor of State, appointed by the Emperor. 
 
 GOUlSiGlL OF MINISTERS.— This Council is composed of the 
 Minister of State and the nine heads of the different state de- 
 partments. It is presided either by the Emperor, or by the 
 Minister of Justice and Keeper of the Seals. The Council 
 takes cognizance of all that concerns the general internal 
 and external policy, of the Empire. The ministers are only 
 responsible to the Emperor, each as regards his department. 
 The salary of each minister is 100,000 fr. The 
 
 MINISTER OF STATE corresponds in the name of the 
 Government Avith the Senate, the Legislative Rody, and the 
 Council of State ; he countersigns the decrees for the nomi- 
 nation of ministers, presidents of the Senate and Legislative 
 Body, Senators. &c. ; and supports Government measures in 
 the debates of the Legislative Body. The Archives and en- 
 couragements to men of letters and science, are under his 
 authority. Residence and office. Place du Carrousel. 
 
 MINISTER OF THE IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD AND THE 
 FINE ARTS. — The Imperial Palaces, Public Monuments, Mu- 
 seums. and Schools of bine Arts are under his control. 
 
 MINISTER OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS. — His department em- 
 braces correspondence Avith foreign powers, all political and 
 commercial treaties, conventions, 8cc. (1) Residence and office, 
 130, i-ue de ITJiiiversite (see p. 330.) The offices for passports 
 are open daily, holidays excepted, from 11 to 4. The 
 
 MINISTER OF WAR. — 8G, rue St. Dominique, has the 
 army and military establishments under his control. 
 
 MINISTER OF THE MARINE AND COLONIES.— He su- 
 perintends all that relates to the navy, military ports, and 
 Colonies. Residence and office, 2, rue Royale. To this 
 department is attached a valuable library of charts, maps, etc., 
 kept at 13, rue de I’Universite. 
 
 minister of finance.— T he taxes, national debt, sinking 
 
 (1) Tills department is divided into four Sections or Directions : 
 the P'olilical, the Commercial, the Financial, and that of the 
 Archives. The commercial direction has 28 consuls-general, 
 %7 consuls, and 775 inferior agents under its control. 
 
60 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 fund, customs, post-office, mint, forests, national domains 
 and Government manufactories, are under his direction. The 
 residence and offices are at 234, rue de Rivoli, where in- 
 formation about this department is to be had daily from 
 10 to 2. 
 
 MINISTER OF THE INTERIOR.— The duty of this Minister 
 IS to correspond with the prefects, and all officers attached 
 to the internal government of the State, to execute the laws 
 of elections, to attend to the organization of the national and 
 municipal guards. See. The Direction de SuretS Generate, 
 annexed to this department, has the supreme control over the 
 police of the Empire (see p. 71.) Residence and offices 
 Place Beauveau, Fauhourg St. Houore, and 103, Rue de 
 Crenelle St. Germain, where the Central Telegraph and a few 
 other offices still remain. 
 
 MINISTER OF JUSTICE AND PUBLIC WORSHIP.— 
 To this Minister all judges, law officers. Sec., are subordinate. 
 Letters of pardon, naturalization. Sec., are granted hy him. 
 The direction of the Imperial printing-office also falls within 
 his jurisdiction, and he regulates all matters connected with 
 Publm Worship. Residence and offices, 13, Place Vendome. 
 The Chancellerie de France, belonging to his department, is 
 at 36, rue Neuve du Luxembourg. 
 
 MINISTER OF PUBLIC INSTRUCTION.— This Minister 
 superintends the University of France, schools, the Institut 
 of France, and various other scientific and literary societies, 
 public hbraries and museums, &c. He is also President of 
 the Committee for publishing whatever relates to the monu- 
 ments, arts, or history of France. His residence is at llo 
 rue de Crenelle St. Germain. ’ 
 
 MINISTER OF AGRICULTURE, COMMERCE, AND PUB- 
 „ WORKS.— This department comprises the regulations 
 affecting the customs and commerce, trading companies, 
 patents, weights, and measures, agri(;ulture, fairs, markets! 
 veterinary establishments, &c., as also the supervision of 
 bridges and roads, railways, mines, &c. Residence and of- 
 fices, 62, Rue St. Dominique St. Germain. 
 
 All the imnisterial offices are open to claimants and peti- 
 tioners, having previously inscribed their names on a list kept 
 tor the purpose, on Thursdays from 2 to 4. An audience of a 
 Minister must be applied for in writing. Official receptions 
 ^re announced in the Moniteur. The persons employed are 
 2,380, receiving 6,500,000 francs annually, (i) Every mi- 
 nistry has a library, relating to its department. 
 
 I The number of functionaries in all France is officially 
 slated as follows Justice, u, 053 j Foreign Affairs, 740 ; Puh- 
 
LEGION D’HONNEGR. 61 
 
 IMPEBIAL HOUSEHOLD. — It is regulated by the Minister 
 of that department aided by a Council of the chief officers of 
 the palace, and consists of a grand almoner, 2 almoners, a 
 vicar- general, 4 chaplains, an ecclesiastical master of cere- 
 monies, a grand marshal and 4 prefects of the palace, a 
 governor of the Tuileries, Louvre, and Elysee, one of St. 
 Cloud, a grand chamberlain, 11 chamberlains, a private 
 secretary, a grand equerry, 14 equerries, a grand veneur and 
 7 other officers of the chase, a grand master of ceremonies 
 and 6 assistant-masters, 2 treasurers, 25 physicians and sur- 
 geons, a minister of the military household, an adjutant- 
 general, 16 aides-de-camp, and other minor officers. — The 
 Empress’s household comprises a grand mistress of the palace, 
 a lady of honour and 12 ladies of the palace ; a lady reader, 
 3 chamberlains, 2 equerries, &c.— -The Prince Imperial has a 
 governess and 2 assistant-governesses. —Prince Napoleon’s 
 household consists of 2 chamberlains, 1 secretary, 4 aides- 
 de-camp, 8cc. ; Her Imperial Highness Princess Clotilda, the 
 Prince’s consort, and daughter to the King of Italy, has a 
 lady of honour and 3 assistant ladies, and two chamberlains. 
 — 'Princess Matilda has a private secretary, a chevalier 
 d’honneur, a lady of honour and two assistant ladies. 
 
 ORDRE DE LA LEGION D’HONNEUR.— The Order of the 
 Legion of Honour was instituted by a law of 29 Floreal, 
 an 10 (1802), and remodelled in 1852, for the recompense of 
 civil and military merit, or length of public service. The order 
 is administered by a grand chancellor, wfio keeps the seal, and is 
 assisted by a secretary-general and a council of ten members. 
 The Emperor is the Grand Master of the Legion, which consists 
 of chevaliers, officers, commanders, grand-officers, and grand- 
 crosses — all nominated for life. The number of chevaliers is 
 unlimited. Foreigners are admitted to the Order, but take no 
 oath. The decoration of the Legion is a star, with Qve double 
 rays, surmounted by a crown. The centre of the star con- 
 tains the effigy of Napoleon, encircled with leaves of oak and 
 laurel, with the legend, Napoleon, Empereur des Francai: ” 
 On the reverse is the eagle, with the words, “ Honneur et Pa- 
 trie." In time of peace to be admitted in the order “ twenty 
 years distinguished services in civil or military functions” are 
 required. In time of war acts of valour and serious wounds ; 
 and in time of peace, extraordinary and valuable services of 
 any kind may be rewarded with admission or promotion . 
 All officers, non-commissioned officers, and men of the army 
 
 lie Instruction, 5o,ooo; Interior, 344, ooo; Agriculture, Com- 
 merce, and Public Works, 10, ooo ; War, 30,000 ; Marine, 
 13,000 ; Finance, 76,000 ; total, 534,800, exclusive of servants. 
 
62 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 and navy in active service, nominated or promoted in the 
 Legion since the decree of 22d of January, in the year 1852, 
 receive annually — as Members 2 50 fr.. Officers 500 fr., Com- 
 manders 1,000 fr., Grand Officers 2,000 fr.. Grand Crosses 
 3,000 fr. Pensions of the same amount are granted to all mi- 
 litary and naval officers, memhers of the Legion of Honour, 
 placed in retirement after 2 2d January, 1852. Every suh- 
 officer or soldier created before 1814, receives 250 fr. per 
 annum, and the other members according to their rank. The 
 quality of member may be forfeited on the same grounds as 
 that of French citizen. (1) 
 
 Besides this Order, there is a medal since 1852 for private 
 soldiers, with an annual pension of lOO fr. It is also given 
 to Marshals and Generals, but without the pension. There is 
 also the St. Helena medal, instituted in 1857 for the survivors 
 of the Grande Armee of the first Empire. 
 
 Attached to the Order are the establishments for the educa- 
 tion of the daughters, nieces, and sisters of the members, 
 (see p. 102.) The Grand Chancellor resides in the hotel of 
 the Order, in the rue de Lille, where the offices also are. 
 
 BUDGET. — The public expenditure for 1866 is estimated at 
 1 ,716,973,439 fr. (2), the Ways and Means at 1,7 19,185,262 
 francs, showing a surplus of 3,21 1 ,823 fr. 
 
 PUBLIC DEBT. — The funded debt now stands as follows, 
 exclusive of pensions and temporary loans for public works ; 
 
 4/2 per cent 37,753,635 fr. interest. 
 
 4 per cent 446,096 — 
 
 3 per cent 307,979,860 — 
 
 Sinking Fund 122,773,87 6 — 
 
 Total 468,953,407 — 
 
 NAVY. — From recent returns it appears that the navy of 
 France consists of 491 vessels afloat, manned by 30,000 sailors 
 
 (1) At the end of i864, the Legion was composed of so gi’and- 
 erosses, 260 grand officers, 1,254 commanders, 5,i3i officers, and 
 50,300 chevaliers. Among the foreign members are 44 crowned 
 lieads and princes of royal blood, exclusive of the Emperor and 
 Imperial princes. No French subject is allowed to wear foreign 
 decorations, unless duly aulhorised by Government. 
 
 (2) This sum is equivalent to £68,678,033. The chief items 
 arc: Imperial Household and Fine Arts, 1 i,076,ioofr. ; dolations, 
 4 5,746,013 fr. ; Legion of Honour, 1 6,03o,6oo fr. ; Ministry of 
 State, 3,092,400 fr. ; Justice, 33 , 073,710 fr. ; Foreign Affairs, 
 12,783,200 fr. ; Public Instruction, io,9i8,i2i fr. ; Public Wor- 
 ship, 48,1 10,586 fr. ; Interior, 53,367,085 fr. ; Agriculture, Com- 
 merce, and Public Woias, 70,550,953 fr.; War, 36 1,.324,797 fr. ; 
 Marine, 145,451,482 fr.; Finances, 522,892,320 fr. 
 
MILITARY ESTABLISHMENT. 63 
 
 and marines (1). This fleet comprises 36 wooden ships of the 
 line and 3 2 frigates ditto, 15 ironclads, 11 corvettes, and 46 
 advice-boats. There are besides in the dockyards 26 wooden 
 steamers, 18 ironclad batteries, 11 screw-corvettes, 6cc., 
 carrying in all 6,399 guns. 
 
 MILITARY ESTABLISHMENT. — The French army in 1865 
 consisted of 243,61 1 infantry, 59,673 cavalry, 37,803 artil- 
 lery, 7,309 engineers, 5,655 drivers, and 648 veterans, form- 
 ing a total of 354,699 men, including 28,547 men of the 
 Garde Imperiale. The number of horses is 85,705, including 
 15,896 for Algeria. There are 10 Marshals of France, 90 
 Generals of Division, and lOO Generals of Brigade (2). 
 
 The garrison of Paris is now about 30,000 men. — General 
 Staff, 7, Plac! Vendome. Court Martial, 37, rue du 
 Cherche-Midi. The Emperor’s body-guard, called Cent 
 Gardes d Cheval, consists of a lieutenant-colonel, and 221 
 men, officers included. The Garde Imperiale consists of 
 8 regiments of infantry (3 of grenadiers, 4 of voltigeurs, 1 
 of zouaves,) and a battalion of chasseurs ; 6 regiments of 
 cavalry, one of gendarmes foot), and a squadron of mounted 
 gendarmes; 16 batteries of artillery, 2 companies of drivers, 
 and 2 of engineers. In field service and ceremonies, these 
 troops have precedence over all, except the Cent Gardes (3). 
 
 National Guard. — By a decree of .lanuary ii, i852, all 
 Frenchmen between 25 and 50 are liable to serve in the na- 
 tional guard. It is under the control of the mayors, sous- 
 prefets, prefets, and the Minister of the Interior. All officers, 
 
 (1) There are 2 admirals, 17 vice-admirals, 30 rear-admirals, 
 130 captains of men of war, 270 captains of fristates, 750 lieu- 
 tenants, and 600 mates in the French n.avy. The French mer- 
 cantile navy consists of 15,092 vessels, measuring together 
 983,235 tons. 
 
 ( 2 ) The value of the stores of the War department amount to 
 612 millions of francs. 
 
 (3) On payment of 2,5oo fr. to the sinking fund, or '450 fr. for 
 each year, or fraction of a year, the military authorities undertake 
 to find a substitute. This constitutes the Dotation. Young men 
 not belonging to the army are permitted to make investments in 
 this fund, so as to collect sufficient capital to buy themselves off 
 when they are of age for the conscription. Officers and privates 
 may also invest and receive 3 'A per cent, interest. The receipts 
 of this fund from 18.53 to 1865 were: From young conscripts, 
 352,778,900; from soldiers serving, 40,618,356 fr ; interest on 
 rente, 37,127,930 fr. ; additional interest by the Caisse des Depots 
 and Consignations, 4,47 4,487 fr. ; donations and legacies, 
 1 6,795 fr. ; sundries, 289, 50i fr. ; total, 444,505,969 fr. Tlio 
 general total of expenses amounts to 430,405,150 fr. The num- 
 ber of rc-enlisted soldiers was I5,5ti in Jan. 1SG5. 
 
64 GENERAL IN FOR^lATlON. 
 
 from the lieutenants upwards, are named by the Emperor ' 
 the lower grades are under the nomination of the majors or 
 chefs de bataillon. The legions, or battalions may be dis- 
 solved and re-organised at will by the Government. At present 
 the national guard of Paris, including the banlieue, is composed 
 of 51 battalions of foot, and six squadrons of cavalry, amount- 
 ing in all to about 40,000 men. The staff of the national 
 guard of Paris is at No. 22, Place Vendome. (1) The charges to 
 the city for rent, guard-houses, staff, musicians, clerks, &c., 
 are about 900,000 fr. The artillery of the national guard, 
 which was disbanded in 1832, was reorganised in March 1848, 
 but again disbanded after the disturbance of June 13, 1849. 
 
 Gendarmerie. — This force, which is under the orders of 
 the Prefect of Police, is composed of 2 legions, 1 for Paris, 
 and 1 for the department of the Seine. It is composed of 4,441 
 officers, sub-officers, and privates, including 613 horse, and 
 is entrusted with the maintenance of public tranquility. (2) 
 
 Garde de Paris. — This is a section of the police force 
 under the orders of the Minister of War, and comprising 2,892 
 men, 663 of whom are cavalry. 
 
 Sergents de Ville. — These are the municipal police, and 
 organised somewhat on the London system. f3) 
 
 Sapeurs Pompiers. — The firemen of Pans, consisting of 
 a regiment of 2,000 men, are organised on a military footing, 
 and under the orders of the War department ; but in case of 
 fires, they obey the orders of the Prefect of Police. (4) A 
 portion are on duty every evening at the theatres, 6cc. 
 
 (1) In March 1848, the national guard amounted to 241,884 men. 
 
 (2) The whole Gendarmerie of France is composed of twenty- 
 seven legions. 
 
 (5) The force comprises : One commissary of police, head of the 
 service, salary i2,Ooo fr. ; one deputy, with 8,ooo fr.. and a sub- 
 chief, with 3,500 fr., but which may be increased to 5,ooo fr. ; 
 20 clerks, from I,ooo fr. to 2,7oo fr. ; 4 inspectors-general, 
 6,000 fr. ; 32 officiers de paix, from 3,ooo fr. to 6,000 ; 4 6 prin- 
 cipal inspectors, 2,5oo fr. ; 78 brigadiers, i ,800 fr. ; 42T sub- 
 brigadiers, 1,600 fr.; 3,676 sergens de ville, from 4,200 fr. to 
 4,5oOfr. ; 321 auxiliaries, 3 fr. a-day; one head physician, 
 3,500 fr.; and 42 other medical men, 4,6oo fr. In all, 4,59o 
 police agents, being an increase of i,oi7 since the annexation of 
 the banlieue. There are also 26 agents attached to the service 
 of control at the Prefecture of Police, These wear a metal badge 
 under their coats, to prove their quality. 
 
 (4) The sapeurs pompiers are efficient soldiers no less than ac- 
 tive firemen, and are carefully drilled and trained in gymnastics. 
 Medals are annually awarded to such as have distinguished them- 
 selves by their exertions and good conduct. The annual cost to 
 the State of the Sapeurs-Pompiers is 57 5,390 fr. 
 
COUfttS> TRIBUNALS, ETC. 65 
 
 COURTiS, TRIBUNALS, 8cc. — The Minister of Justice is the 
 supreme Ihead of all the judicial courts in the State and their 
 officers (scee p. 60). 
 
 High Court of Justice.— This Court, established in virtue 
 of art. 54 of the Constitution of January 1852, judges, with- 
 out appeail or remedy by cassation, the persons accused of 
 crimes or conspiracies against the Emperor and the security of 
 the State. It cannot take cognizance of any case without a spe- 
 cial decree; of the Emperor. It is composed of a Chambre des 
 'rmses en (accusation, a Chambre de Jugement, and a hi°-h 
 jury comiposed of 36 members of the Councils-general of tL 
 departmemts. Each chamber is composed of 5 judges and 2 
 deputy-ju(dges, annually appointed by the Emperor. 
 
 Court (Of Cassation, Palais de Justice.— There is but one 
 Court of Cassation for the whole empire. ' It is the supreme 
 Court of ^Appeal on all points of law only, and its power is 
 confined tto annulling the decisions of the courts appealed 
 from. W'hen, therefore, a cause comes by appeal before the 
 Court of Cassation, it is not at once determined there but 
 sent down for decision to another court of the same degree with 
 that from \which it has come. The time allowed for appeal in 
 civil matte3i’s, is three months ; in criminal matters, and breach 
 of police r(egulations, only three days. 
 
 The Comrt of Cassation is composed of a president, 3 vice- 
 presidents,, and 45 counsellors. It is divided into 3 cLmbers 
 of requestls, of civil, and criminal appeal. In civil cases 
 the appeail first comes before the Chambre des RequHes 
 where the appellant only is heard; and if admitted by that 
 chamber, it passes to the Chambre Civile. Attached to it 
 are a prociureur-imperial, 6 avocats-generaux, a chief registrar 
 besides 4 mnder-registrars. A college oi 60 advocates has the 
 exclusive iright of pleading in this court. The 2 civil sections 
 have a vacation, from September 1 to November 1 but the 
 criminal siection always continues sitting. ’ 
 
 COUR DIES COMPTES, Palais du Quai d’Orsay.— This court 
 is the ne3xt in rank to that of Cassation. It consists of a 
 chief president, 3 presidents, and 18 masters of accounts 
 who formi the chambers; there are besides 84 conseillers ri- 
 ferendatrefs, who examine the accounts and report thereon 20 
 auditors, ;a procureur-general, and a registrar. It is divided 
 into 3 secttions or chambers, whose jurisdiction extends over 
 the whole receipts and expenditure of the country. 
 
 CouR ImipEriale de Paris, Palais de Justice. — This is one of 
 the tweiit}y-seven courts of appeal in France. It hears an- 
 peals from the Tribunals of First Instance and of Commerce of 
 Pans and <of six of the surrounding departments. The court is 
 
66 general information. 
 
 composed of a first president, six presidents, and 59 councillors, 
 and attached to it are a procureur-impeiial, six advocates- 
 general, 11 deputy advocates-general, and a registrar. It is 
 divided’into six chambers, four of which are for the trial of 
 anpeals in civil cases, one for the appeals from the Tribunal 
 de Police Correctionelle, and one which sits in private and 
 deliberates on the criminal charges referred to it liy the 
 Chambre du Conseil of the Tribunal of First Instance, dis- 
 missing the charge or directing the mise en accusation before 
 the Courd’ Assise. The latter is composed of a president and 
 four assessors, councillors of the Cour Imperiale, appointed i 
 by the Keeper of the Seals, and is for the trial of offences \ 
 entailing the punishment of death, hard labour, etc. The j 
 Court of Assize is the only court in which trial by jury pre- 
 vails (1). It sits daily from 9 till 12, holidays excepted. 
 
 Tribunal de Premiere Instance de la Seine, Palais de 
 .lustice. — A Court of original jurisdiction, to which all 
 causes ai-e first taken, except those only assigned to the juges 
 de paix, and the Tribunal de Commerce. It decides without 
 appeal in actions relating to the person or to personal property, 
 to the amount of 1,500 fr., and in real actions, where the 
 rent is not more than 60 fr. It hears also appeals from juges 
 de paix. Its jurisdiction comprises the whole department of 
 the Seine, and is composed of 1 president, 8 vice-presidents, 
 55 judges (18 examining, 12 supplementary) a procureur- 
 imp^rial, 23 deputy procureurs, and 43 sworn registrars. 
 It is divided into 10 chambers, 5 of which take cognisance of 
 civil matters, 3 of police cases, one of civil and criminal 
 cases judged in the Chambre du Conseil, and one of cases of 
 expropriation. The court sits every day except Sundays 
 and Mondays. Vacation from Sept. 1 to Nov. 1. (2) 
 
 Tribunal de Commerce, opposite the Palais de Justice. — 
 The judges of this court are heads of mercantile houses, elected 
 
 (1) On an average (he Courts of Assize throughout all France 
 hear 4000 eases, about i700 of which are offences against the 
 person ; and 2300 are crimes against property, including about 
 1 300 burglaries. The number of prisoners charged with crimes 
 .against the person is about 20oo, and of those accused of crimes 
 against .property, 3000. 
 
 (2) The civil tribunals throughout all France hear about 
 150,000 law-suits per annum; about 3o,ooo are judged by 
 default, and about as many .are amicably settled. The number 
 of law-suits registered averages 155, ooo; and the number of 
 sentences on matters of seizure of landed property, expropria- 
 tions of ground for public utility, etc., is about 16,500. Nine- 
 tenths of tlie cases of judicial separation between luisb.and and 
 wife originate with the latter. 
 
1 COURTS, TRIBUNALS, ETC. 67 
 
 ^or two years at a meeting of commercants notables (influ- 
 ential mterchants), the list of whom is drawn up by the pre- 
 fect, add approved by the Minister of the Interior. It cannot 
 contain liess than 2 6 members in a provincial town of l5,ooo 
 Inhabitamts ; but in Paris, and other large towns it must con- 
 bin at le^ast one member more for every additional thousand. 
 ISlo one c;au be elected a judge under the age of 30, nor unless 
 he be a jmerchant of at least 5 years’ standing. The tribunal 
 fe comp(osed of a president, 14 judges, and 16 deputy judges. 
 It has a iregistrar, fi under-registrars, and 4 huissiers; also 10 
 yardes diu commerce, who arrest persons for debt, (l) 
 
 Tribu>nal of Simple Police, Palais de Justice. — The justices 
 of the pe:ace sit here in rotation, and decide upon the breach of 
 police regulations where the penalty does not exceed five days’ 
 anprisoniment, or a fine of 1 3 fr. A commissary of police acts 
 &s counsiel for the prosecution. Appeal may be made to the 
 fribunat de Premiere Instance. 
 
 JUGES DE Paix.— There is one for each of the twenty Ar- 
 'ondisseiments of Paris. Their jurisdiction is three-fold, 
 riiey fornn what is called a Bureau de Conciliation, to under- 
 itand whiich it is necessary to hear in mind that no action 
 lan be bnought until the complaining party has summoned 
 Jie deferndant before the juge de paix, whose duty it is to 
 j-y to effcect a reiouciliation. They have jurisdiction without 
 Ipjieal wlhen the ground of action does not exceed loo fr. 
 n value,, and jurisdiction subject to appeal in all personal 
 ictions tO) the value of 200 fr., and in actions between landlords 
 »f hotels iand lodging-house keepers and travellers and tenants, 
 or hotel s expenses and lessor damage of effects, etc. They 
 lecidc wiithout appeal to 1 oo fr., and with appeal to 1 ,5oo fr. 
 fhey sit ;at the mairic of each arrondisseinent (see p. li). 
 
 Advocavtes. — The order of advocates comprises 9oo mem- 
 )ers. Tluey have a bureau for gratuitous advice to the poor 
 ipen on Saturdays, from 1 till 4, at the Palais de Justice. ’ 
 
 Avoui 5 ss.— The avoues, 210 in number, are licentiates in 
 fivil law,, and act as solicitors and attorneys ; in certain cases 
 hey havee the right of pleading ; and are subject to a chamber 
 )f disciplline. They take the oath of an advocate. 
 
 Notariies. — The number of Paris Notaries, who exercise 
 
 (i) The! number of cases annually brought before the Tri- 
 mnal of Commerce is on an average 68,000. Of these about 
 bur-flflbis are judged, and the remainder are either settled 
 ty eonciliialion, or withdrawn, except a few that stand over for 
 he following year. There are about 1500 commercial or joint- 
 lock connpanieg formed every year, representing an average 
 •apdal of ■ 80,000 fr. The number of bankruptcies averages leoo, 
 >er annuim. 
 
68 general information. 
 
 their profession within the jurisdiction of the court of appeal, is 
 122; they draw up wills, leases, mortgages, title-deeds of es- 
 tates’, and other deeds ; they give security to the government, 
 and, on retirement or death, their places can be sold. Their cham- 
 ber of discipline meets at 1, Place du Chatelet, every Friday. 
 
 Huissiers. — These officers, 150 in number, fulfil the duties 
 of sheriffs officers, attached to the different tribunals, and their 
 services are required in protesting bills, 8cc. 
 
 COMMISSAIRES Priseurs (appraisers and auctioneers).— 
 Their number in Paris is fixed at 80. They have the ex- 
 clusive privilege of appraising and selling by auction, and are 
 under the jurisdiction of the Procureur Imperial. 
 
 CoNSEiLS DES Prud’hommes, or Councils of Arbitrators. (1) 
 — These councils are instituted for the purpose of amicably 
 settling disputes about wages, 8cc., between masters and their 
 dependants, in order principally to obviate strikes and other 
 irregularities. By the law of 1853, the councils of prud - 
 hommes are composed of masters and foremen of a certain 
 trade, elected by their peers. Masters, being French subjects, 
 aged 25 or upwards, of 5 years’ standing, and 3 years’ domi- 
 cile within the jurisdiction of the Council, are electors for the 
 master-prud’hommes ; foremen and workmen, under the same 
 circumstances, are electors for the foremen prud’hommes. All 
 electors aged 30 and upwards, and skilled in reading and 
 writing, are eligible. The masters and foremen are equally 
 balanced in the council, which must consist of 6 members at 
 least. One jialf of tbe council is renewed every second year. 
 Their presidents and vice-presidents are named by the Empe- 
 ror, and may be selected from among persons that are not 
 eligible as members. They remain 3 years in office, but may 
 be confirmed anew. The different trades of Paris have been 
 divided into four classes, namely, the metal trades, weav- 
 ing, chemical preparations, and articles of Paris manufac- 
 ture. These councils decide the most intricate questions with 
 speed by the custom of the trade, generally to the satisfaction 
 of both parties. These questions relate to counterfeits, indem- 
 nities, apprenticeships, the condition of children working in 
 factories, hours of labour, and wages. The judgments of the 
 Conseils de Prud’hommes are without appeal for sums not ex- 
 ceeding 200 fr. ; if above that sum, an appeal lies to the 
 
 (t) Arbitration in matters of trade dates in France from very 
 early times. Prud’hommes were named by the king, for a speci- 
 fied time, or permanently, to exereise vigilanee over certain 
 manufactures, to fix prices, &c. In certain maritime districts 
 the fishermen used annually to elect Prud’hommcs to examine 
 their accounts and settle their differences. 
 
CIVIL ADMINISTRATION. 69 
 
 Tribunal of Commerce. The Emperor may dissolve 
 the councils at any time. They meet at No. 18, rue 
 de la Douane. (1) 
 
 1 CIVIL ADMINISTRATION OF PARIS.— Offices at the Hotel 
 fle Ville, open from 10 to 5. The Prefect of the Seine is the 
 fehief municipal authority in the capital. Resides the duties 
 poramon to the other prefects of the empire, he exercises nearly 
 [ill the functions of an English mayor. He superintends all 
 public works, establishments, churches, streets and public 
 ways, barracks, excise duties, markets, hospitals, benevolent 
 institutions, direct taxes, public fetes. Chamber of Commerce, 
 and domains of the State within the department. He also pre- 
 sents to the municipal council the estimates for the coming 
 year. Under him is a Council of Prefecture, composed of 5 
 members, and a secretary-general, with a municipal and de- 
 partmental Commission composed of 68 members, provision- 
 ally named by the government. The members of this com- 
 mission are also members of the Council-general of the de- 
 partment, which comprises 8 members more for the arrondis- 
 sements of Sceaux and St. Denis. The members of each 
 irrondissement form its municipal council, and as such are 
 mbject to the control of the council-general. 
 
 Communal and Departmental Administration. — Under 
 bis head are comprised four principal divisions. The First 
 Division has a bureau for legalizations, patents, translations 
 )f foreign documents, sales, purchases and salaries ; one for 
 ilementary schools, boarding-schools for young ladies, the 
 talks d'asile for infancy, ouvroirs, (see p. 102) learned socie- 
 aes, the City library, and religious affairs ; (2) a third for 
 jommerce and statistics, the Rourse, joint-stock companies, 
 h’ud’hommes, and the Chamber of Commerce (see p. 106) ; a 
 ourtli bureau for the organization of the National Guard, 
 rouses of correction, barracks for the Gendarmerie, Sapeurs- 
 ^’ompiers, &c., also guard-houses, recruiting, 8cc. ; and a fifth 
 
 (1) The number of cases annually brought before these couii- 
 uls averages 4,ooo, about two thirds of -which relate to wages. 
 ?hey are generally settled by conciliation; the judgments rarely 
 tmount to more than a hundred, and appeals seldom occur. 
 
 (2) The Comite Central d’ Instruction Primaire is composed of a 
 iresident, vice-president, 2 secretaries, all the members of the 
 nunicipal commission who reside in Paris, and 9 members be- 
 lides, among whom are the senior mayor and the senior curate 
 )f Paris, the Grand Rabbi, and 2 pastors of the Lutheran and Re- 
 ormed Churches. This committee has the inspection of all pri- 
 nary schools, and nominates or revokes communal masters, 
 lesides this, there is a committee of primary instruction in each 
 if the 20 arrondissements, under the presidency of the mayor. 
 
70 
 
 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 for puL'lic festivals, 8cc, — The Second Division comprises a 
 bureau for inscription and delivery of deeds, the archives of | 
 the civil department, the installation of municipal councils, s 
 the nomination of maires in the communes of more than oooo | 
 inhabitants, presentation of candidates for various functions I 
 and the Legion of Honour, statistics, administration of rural | 
 communes, expenses of the mairies, sale and purchase of land, | 
 buriais and verifications of deaths ; a second bureau has the 
 direction of the octroi, public weights and measures, the ■ 
 letting of stands in the streets and public walks, coach-stands, 
 slaughter-houses, and the butchers’ trade. The third bureau jj 
 superintends the hospitals and asylums of the Seine ; the Mont 
 de Piete, foundlings, lunatics, wet-nurses, vaccination, ton- 
 tines, and encouragement to charitable institutions. The fourth 
 bureau is devoted to mortgage inscriptions, national property, 
 fisheries, national pension list, sale of unclaimed articles found 
 in the streets, expenses of prosecution under the game-laws, 8cc. 
 The fiftli has the compilation of the electoral and jury lists, 
 the division of electoral colleges, the verification and publica- 
 tion of the results of elections of Deputies to the Legisla- 
 tive Body, of members of councils-general, mayors, 8cc. 
 — The Third Division has a bureau for the maintenance of 
 canals and rivers, roads, bridges, railways, mills, manufacto 
 ries, and cleanliness of streets ; a second bureau for the canals 
 of the Oureq, St. Denis, and St. Martin; for hydraulic ma- 
 chines, distribution of water and gas, fountains, sewers, street- 
 pavements, foot-paths, and plantations ; a third for the direc- 
 tion of the plan of Paris, the widening of streets, expropria- 
 tions, the naming of streets, numbering of houses, and expenses 
 relating to these various subjects ; and a fourth bureau com 
 prising the execution of public works ; the granting permissions 
 for building, regulations pertaining thereto, building and repair- 
 ing the Hotel de Ville, churches, prisons, and colleges, slaughter- 
 houses, markets, the Palais de Justice, and the cemeteries of 
 Paris. — The Fourth Division has a bureau for the collection and 
 imposition of the taxes, &c. ; another for the verification of the 
 lists of tax-payers, the reduction of taxes, 8cc. ; a third for the 
 compilation of the budget of the department, pensions, accounts 
 of the treasurers of benevolent institutions and the octroi ; and 
 a fourth for the liquidation of expenses ordered by the Prefect, 
 orders for payment, and accounts of the department. 
 
 The offices of the Treasurer of the City of Paris are at the 
 Hotel de Ville. — The financial service of the Department of the 
 Seine is conducted by the following administrations : — Direction, 
 de V Enregistrenient et des Domaines, rue Neuve de la Banque. 
 — Direction des Contributions Directes, 9, rue Poulletier, He 
 
administration of the police* It 
 
 St. Louis. The Administration of the Customs, 2, rue de 
 Luxembourg. — Direction of Indirect Taxes, 12, rue Duphot. 
 —Direction des Droits dVctroi, at the Hotel de Ville. — 
 liecette Centrale du Departement, 24, rue Mont-Thabor.— 
 Direction de la Poste aux Chevaux, 2, rue Pigale. 
 
 To each of the arronclissements of St. Denis and Sceaux there 
 
 a sub-prefect, with a Conseil d’ Arrondissement. 
 
 [ Mairies. — Each of the 20 arrondissements of Paris (see their 
 list at p. 4) is headed by a mayor and one or two deputy 
 mayors, w'^hose principal functions relate to births, marriages, 
 and deaths. The prefect of the department is the head mayor. 
 The offices of the mairies are open daily from 9 till 4, except 
 on Sundays and holidays. The mayors or deputy mayors sit 
 every day from 12 till 2. 
 
 Timbre Imperial. — Bureaux for the distribution of stamped 
 paper are established in the different quarters of Paris, besides 
 the central office, 9, rue Neuve de la Banque. 
 
 Electors. — The electoral law of February 2, 1852, 
 |gives the right of suffrage to every Frenchman born, or 
 foreigner naturalized, of the age of 2 1 and upwards, on condi- 
 tion of a 6 months’ residence in the commune in which he is 
 ■to vote. Persons who have suffered condemnation for crimes 
 land certain offences specified by law are excluded. Soldiers 
 lonly vote when present in the commune to which they be- 
 long. Elec tors of the age of 2 5 and upwards are eligible to the 
 Legislative Body. The department of the Seine is divided 
 into 9 electoral circumscriptions, each of which returns a 
 member. The number of electors inscribed is about 340,000. 
 
 Jurors. — By the law of 1853, a juror must be 30 years of 
 age at least, and in the full enjoyment of his civil and political 
 rights. The high functionaries of the state and those belong- 
 ing to the police or customs’ department, ecclesiastics, school- 
 imasters, dlomestics, illiterate persons, and such as have under- 
 Igone certain condemnations, are excluded from the jury-list. 
 ilSepluagen arians and workmen are exempted . The annual jury- 
 list of the department of the Seine contains 2000 jurors. Per- 
 sons refusing or neglecting to serve on the jury are liable to a 
 tine of from 200 to 500 fr. 
 
 ADMINISTRATION OF THE POLICE.— Prefecture de 
 Poi.iCE, rue du Harlay, Quai des Orfevres. — Offices open 
 every day from 9 till 4. The Bureau de Sureteis open night 
 ■and day. The authority of the prefect extends over the whole 
 of the dcparliiiiMit of the Seine, the district of St. Cloud, Sevres, 
 and Meudon, in the department of the Seine-et-Oise, and mar- 
 ket of Poissy. He is under the authority of the minister of 
 the Interior. He is president of a Conseil de Salubrite, 
 
72 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 composed of 20 members, all physicians, surgeons, or chemists, 
 specially entrusted with the superintendence of the sanitary re- 
 gulations of the capital, the cleanliness of streets, markets, 
 sewers, &c. It holds its sittings every other Friday at the 
 Prefecture ( 1 ). The Secretariat-General has a bureau for trans- 
 lations of documents, legalization of the signatures of the princi- 
 pal functionaries of the Police-department, statutes of joint-stock 
 companies, statistics, and nomination and discharge of police- 
 officials. A second bureau has the management of the Garde 
 de Paris and Sapeurs-Pompiers, the surveillance of theatres, 
 and public halls, societies, hawkers, bill-stickers, public festivals, 
 apprehension of deserters, smugglers, and control over societies 
 of mutual assistance. Lastly, a third bureau is entrusted with 
 the reprinting of ordonnances, the restoration of articles lost or 
 seized, and the treasury of the Prefecture. Besides the Secre- 
 tariat-General, there are 2 divisions, the first of which has a bu- 
 reau for the detective service, repression of vagrancy, and 
 classification of the sentences of the criminal courts ; a second 
 bureau for passports, pcrmis de. sejour, licences for fire-arms, 
 furnished hotels, livrets of servants and workmen, 8 cc. ; a third 
 for prisons ; a fourth bureau for prosecution of persons ar- 
 rested on an order from departmental authorities, liberated 
 convicts, or persons to be sent to an hospital; a fifth bu- 
 reau for licences to prostitutes, the surveillance over maisons 
 de tolerance, the search after persons who have disappeared 
 from their homes, the Mont de Piete, public sales, strikes among 
 workmen, suicides, accidental deaths, lotteries, and gaming- 
 houses, lastly, a sixth for the insane, children abandoned by 
 their parents, orphans, nurses, and maisons de sante. — The 
 second Division has a bureau for the inspection of markets, 
 &c., the deposits of grain by bakers, the bread-assize, the de- 
 struction of unwholesome victuals exposed for sale, the Bourse, 
 brokers and workmen of the halles, the verification of weights 
 and measures, the surveillance of ports, canals, floating manu- 
 factories on the river, steamers, wine and coal-merchants. A 
 second bureau is for the demolition of houses, and for other 
 works to be executed in the streets, the emptying of sewers, 
 the numbering of houses, public thoroughfares, pedlars and 
 itinerant venders. The third has the surveillance of the clean- 
 ing, watering, and lighting of streets, sewers, aqueducts, and 
 fountains, public carriages and wagons. The fourth and last is 
 for dangerous or noisome establishments, breweries, locomo- 
 tives, fireworks, public health in general, exhumation of bodies, 
 cemeteries, and the hours of labour in manufactories. — The 
 
 ( 1 ) There is a Comite de Salubrite Pvblique in each arrondisse- 
 ment, connected with the Conseil. 
 
PRISONS. 
 
 73 
 
 Garde de Paris and Sapeurs Pompiers, in cases of fire, are un- 
 der the Prefect of Police. During the night the sergents de ville 
 patrol the streets every half hour. They are also stationed at 
 the theatres, concert and ball-rooms. (1) 
 
 Connected with the Police are the following : 
 
 Commissaires de Police. — In each of the eighty quartiers 
 of Paris resides a commissary of police, who superintends 
 its cleanliness and lighting; takes cognizance of misdemeanors; 
 makes the first examination of crimes and offences; delivers 
 certificates to obtain passports upon the attestation of two 
 householders. The commissaries attend to all the complaints 
 the public may have to make. Their residence is known at 
 night by a square lantern of red glass hung at the door. 
 
 Bureau de Verification des Poids et Mesures, rue de la 
 Coutellerie. — New weights and measures are stamped at this 
 office before they can be used in commerce ; and inspectors 
 verify every year those in use by tradesmen. 
 
 Secours aux Noyes et Asphyxies. — Witnesses of accidents 
 on the Seine and elsewhere are bound to afford the first aid, 
 and to call the nearest physician or surgeon, or to make it 
 known to the nearest military post or commissary of police. A 
 reward of 25 fr. is given to any one who gets to shore a drown- 
 ing person, if restored to life; and 15 fr. in case of death. 
 About eighty sets of apparatus for restoring suspended anima- 
 tion are deposited on the banks of the Seine (2). 
 
 L behind Notre Dame 
 
 dental death are deposited for tmcc uayo. iaiix 
 
 upon inclined slabs of black marble, twelve in number, open 
 to the inspection of the public, in order that they may be re- 
 cognized by those interested in their fate. Their clothes are 
 hung up near them, as an additional means of recognition. 
 If not claimed, they are buried at the public expense. The 
 bodies are separated from the public by glass screens. 
 
 (1) The expenses of the Prefecture of Police amount to about 
 1 2 , 000,000 fr. The central administration comprises 280 employes. 
 Of the 80 commissaries of Police, 24 receive eooo francs a-year, 
 the rest 5,400 francs a-year. 
 
 ( 2 ) The number of medals annually given for saving the lives 
 of persons averages i230. About one in thirty of these medals 
 is gold, the others in silver. The number of persons annually 
 saved is about looo. The annual average for the last ten years 
 of the number of dead bodies exposed at the Morgue is 334, 
 viz., 233 men, 52 women, and 49 new-born infants. The 
 Morgue (from morguer, to scrutinise), was formerly a police- 
 prison in the Petit Chatelet (see p,307 n,). The annual average 
 of suicides in France is 2,600, 
 
 the unknown persons 
 
74 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 PRISONS. — It was not until 1070 that improvements were 
 introduced into tlie piisons of Paris. Under Louis XVI, 
 M. de Malesherbes separated lunatics and political offenders 
 from criminals ; other improvements contemplated by 
 M. Necker were interrupted by the Revolution. On Sept. 29, 
 1791, a law was passed which established houses d’arr^t, of 
 justice, and detention. All other prisons were prohibited, and 
 mildness towards the prisoners was enjoined. The execution 
 of the measure was scarcely begun, when the system of 
 terror filled the prisons with those who ought to have been for 
 ever strangers to them. The 9th Thermidor put an end to that 
 state of things ; and public opinion loudly demanded a change 
 in the system. In 1795, by a decree of the Convention, sepa- 
 rate prisons were appointed for the different classes of offenders, 
 and the penal code enacted. The improvement of the prisons 
 has since occupied the attention of the municipality of Paris and 
 of the governmeiu ; and the new buildings now produce satis- 
 factory results. All the prisons of Paris are annually visited by 
 a Commission selected from among the members of the Coun- 
 cil-General. The conveyance of prisoners from one depot to 
 anotlier is performed by means of cellular vehicles, and the 
 disgusting chame, traversing the country slowly with felons 
 to the hulks (galeres), is now abolished. 
 
 ■ The prisons of Paris under the jurisdiction of the Prefect of 
 Police are 8 in number, viz. for persons under accusation or 
 trial; debt; political offences and offences liable to only l 
 year’s Imprisonment; for those condemned to death or to the 
 hulks; juvenile criminals; and females. Besides tliese there is 
 1 military prison, under the jurisdiction of the Minister of 
 War. In most of the penal prisons the criminals are allowed 
 books and writing-materials; (1) they are bound to observe the 
 religious duties of their respective creeds ; meals are in common ; 
 work is obligatory, but permission may be obtained to exercise 
 a particular trade. They may receive visits from their families. 
 Men receive 7 50 gr. (1 ’/a lb.) of bread a-day ; women 700 gr. (2) 
 For permission to visit any of the prisons (3), application must 
 
 (0 Alost of the prisons have libraries for Ihe prisoners. 
 
 (2) The daily supply of bread to all the prisons amounts to 
 700 liilogs. of white, and 3 , 4 oo kilogs. of brown bread. 
 
 ( 3 ) There are in France 383 prisons (mauons d’arrr'O, and 23 
 maisons centrales; they are occupied by about 71,000 individuals; 
 about 22,000 falling to the share of the maisons centrales. 
 Tliere is at present but one bagne, where formats or COllVicIs 
 are kept; viz., at Toulon; all the others h.ive been gra- 
 dually cleared, and the convicts sent to the penal settle- 
 ment at Cayenne. The work done by the prisoners in the 
 maisons centrales amounts to about 4,000,000 fr., of which 
 
PRISONS. 
 
 /a 
 
 be made by letter to M. le Prefet de Police, ii la Prefecture. 
 
 It is, however, but rarely granted. 
 
 A prison, important both for its size and its historical asso- 
 ciations, LA Force, (see p. 273 ,) has been replaced by the 
 
 Prison Modele, or Nouvelle Force, boulevard Mazas, 
 opposite the Lyons railroad. This prison is constructed 
 on the well-known cellular system. A semicircular building 
 forms a centre, to which converge six large wings, each con- 
 sisting of a ground floor and two stories of 70 cells each ; so 
 that every wing contains 210 cells, and the whole structure 
 12 60. A round hall of observation occupies the central body, 
 and communicates with the long internal corridors which in 
 each wing separate the two rows of cells from one another. 
 In this rotunda is the altar, of white marble, placed on a cir- 
 cular platform supported by 8 Doric columns. Around the 
 frieze is the following inscription ; Gaudium erit in coelo su- 
 per uno peccatore pcenitentiam agentc, quam super nona- 
 ijinta novem justis qui non indigent pwnitentia. From this 
 altar, which is approached by a bridge communicating with the 
 lower gallery which runs around the circular hall, the keeper 
 may survey at a glance the 6 galleries which extend from it 
 as from a centre. Each gallery has 2 wooden balconies esta- 
 blishing a communication with the cells of each story, and con- 
 nected with one another by bi'idges. The warders in the’ 
 galleries may communicate with the rotunda by speaking-tubes 
 fixed in the walls. Every cell has a bed, gas-burner and water- 
 closet, and communicates with an apparatus intended both for 
 ventilation and the distribution of warm air. "When a prisoner 
 is in want of something, he pulls at an iron knob, which causes 
 an iron blade to project outside, on seeing which, the warder 
 stationed in the gallery immediately attends to him. The door 
 of each cell has a small opening closed by a shutter, from 
 which food is passed into the cell at meal-times. The warder 
 may, besides, by turning a knob, open unohserved a small 
 hole in the door, through which he may see what the prisoner 
 is about. Besides these ordinary cells, there are cells of pu- 
 nishment ill each gallery, Avhere unruly prisoners are shut up 
 with nothing but a straw-mattress, in total darkness. Each 
 cell is abtoiit 12 feet long by 6 in breadth. There is a /)ar^o^'r 
 
 about one-fourth by women. The women are employed in 
 neetlle-W'Oi'k, glove, fringe, and lace-making, &c. ; the men in 
 tailoring, shoe-making, cabinet-making, etc. The produce of 
 prison lilllhilr in tlie department of the Seine amounts to 
 about 500,000 fr., the gain per day being from I fr. 5 c. to 2fr. 
 14 c. The general average is 41 1/2 c. The produce is divided 
 equally between the prisoners and the administration ; the latter 
 concedes its part to contractors fora certain sum daily. 
 
76 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 for each gallery on the ground floor, where persons who have 
 obtained permission from the prefecture may converse with 
 the prisoner they call for. These parloirs contain 7 stalls 
 each, with iron grates, where the prisoners are introduced 
 without the possibility of seeing or communicating with one 
 another ; opposite these are 7 cells for the visitors, also grated ; 
 a keeper walks between these two rows during the conversa- 
 tion, so that no paper or other suspicious article can change 
 hands. There are also a guard-room, a cantine where prisoners, 
 by means of the keeper, may buy what food they like be- 
 sides the prison-fare, a dispensary for medicines, and rooms 
 for overseers in the upper stories, all contiguous with the cen- 
 tral rotunda. In the cellars is the large apparatus for calefac- 
 tion and ventilation, consisting of 6 large stoves in which a 
 constant fire is kept up, thus distributing warmth through 
 pipes m winter, and producing a draught in summer through 
 the central chimney, which carries off the impure air from 
 all the cells. Railways run all along these cellars under the 
 galleries, communicating with the kitchens, which are in a 
 court apart from the prison. The rations are contained in tin 
 saucepans, 1 8 of which fill an iron salver fitting in a wooden 
 frame upon wheels. Each frame, holding 12 of these salvers, 
 is, when full, wheeled on the railway to the bottom of a gal- 
 lery, whence it is drawn up by pulleys to the upper stories, and 
 the contents distributed to the prisoners by the warders. In 
 the yards between the wings are the prhux, circular enclo- 
 sures divided by walls into 20 small courts communicating 
 with a central building, so contrived that the prisoners may 
 each enter their court for the sake of exercise without being 
 seen by the others. Each court is closed in front by an iron 
 railing, and has a shed for bad weather. A warder stationed 
 in the central building may survey them all. Every prisoner 
 has an hour’s airing here daily. A cheminde ronde runs all 
 around the prison ; sentinels are placed there at intervals. The 
 gas-apparatus consists of three gasometers of 150 cubic metres 
 each. There are 1460 gas-burners in the establishment. In 
 another part of the chemin de ronde is the dead-house, and 
 further on a yard containing the guard-house for 100 men, and 
 anotherin which is the sick-ward. Here the prisoners live in 
 common. The walls facing the rue Mazas and the first court 
 are pierced with loop-holes intended for the defence of the prison 
 in case of a popular outbreak. This prison is reserved solely 
 for persons awaiting trial. Its annual cost is about 95,000 fr. 
 The system has been found so advantageous that a new 
 prison has been built exactly ou the same plan (see 
 P^e 77). 
 
PRISONS. 77 
 
 Maison D’ARRfeT DES Madelonnettes, — fonnerly t2, Rue 
 des Fontaines, has now been transferred to the new buildings 
 in the Rue de la Sante, constructed on the plan of the Prison 
 Mazas, just described. They cover a space of 25,000 square 
 metres, and consist of four galleries of four stories each, con- 
 verging towards a centre, which comprises the chapel and the 
 infirmary. One portion of the edifice is reserved for prisoners 
 condemned to not more than a year’s punishment. These 
 have their meals in common, and work in the shops provided 
 for them, whereby they earn a little money, if they know a 
 trade, such as tailoring, shoe-making, &c. The rest of the 
 building is constructed on the cellular system, and the prison 
 discipline is there identically the same as at Mazas. Every 
 prisoner, on entering, is made to take a bath, and his clothes, 
 if necessary, are disinfected in a sulphuring-room (soufroir), 
 He is not allowed to have more than 1 5 francs about him ; 
 any sum above that is deposited at the office. Every day the 
 prisoner is visited by the director, the almoner, and the apo- 
 thecary. He is provided gratuitously with books and writing- 
 materials ; he has a bath once a month, and is shaved once a 
 week. The prison diet consists of 7 50 gms. of bread a day 
 o'd, half a litre of broth, and a third of a litre of boiled vege- 
 tables or pulse ; twice a week he gets 100 gms of boiled 
 meat. He may buy wine and other small luxuries at the 
 cantine, a shop for the purpose within the walls of the prison, 
 where everything is sold according to a tariff approved of by 
 the Prefect of Police (see p. 415). 
 
 D^pot de la Prefecture de Police. — This prison is 
 a place where persons arrested are detained 24 hours and then 
 either set at liberty or sent to one of the other prisons. It is a 
 new building, constructed on the cellular system. The ward 
 on the ground-floor is reserved for prostitutes, who generally 
 are released after a few hours’ confinement, their only fault 
 being disorderly behaviour. There are cells for the insane, 
 who are not kept there more than 1 2 hours at the utmost, as 
 a medical man attends twice a-day to decide whether or not 
 they be in a state to require being sent to an asylum. Some of 
 the cells are called prisons de pistole, for such as are willing 
 to pay for them. There is also a room set apart for the children 
 of prisoners, or such as have been found lost or abandoned 
 in the streets of the metropolis. The population of this place 
 is on an average 230 individuals; the mean entrances and 
 exits per day being 120. 
 
 The CoNCiERGERiE, in the Palais de Justice, is used as a 
 depot for prisoners during their trial, and sometimes for no- 
 torious offenders before their committal. For the historical 
 
7 8 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 associations connected with this prison, and its description, (see 
 p. 302.) It costs 25,000 fr, annually. 
 
 Military Prison, 38, rue du Cherche Midi. — This prison 
 replaces the old Prison de VAbbaye, which stood at the 
 corner of the rue Sle. Marguerite, and was formerly a house of 
 correction within the jurisdiction of theAbbaye of St. Germain 
 des Pres. (1) The new building serves as a house of arrest for 
 military offences (see p. 381). To visit this prison apply to 
 the Minister of War, but permission is seldom granted. 
 
 Prison for Debtors, 70, rue de Clichy.— this prison is of 
 plain construction, airy, and well situated ; it holds from 300 
 to 400 persons, and costs 30,000 fr. yearly. (2) 
 
 Stf, Pelagie, rue du Puits ITIermite. — This prison, formerly 
 a convent of nuns, suppressed at the revolution of 17 89, was 
 afterwards converted into a prison for debtors. It has for 
 some years been appropriated to persons condemned to im- 
 prisonment for not more than a year, or awaiting trial, and to 
 political offenders, sentenced to short terms of confinement. 
 The internal arrangement of the prison has therefore been mucir, 
 improved. Political offenders are kept apart from the rest, 
 and are at liberty to occupy themselves as they please. Pri- 
 soners receive soup and boiled meat twice a-week. They are 
 not obliged to work, but may if they choose, in which case 
 they earn something. There are three courts, one of which 
 is set apart for political offenders. About 550 persons are 
 generally confined here. The buildings are largo and airy. 
 Its cost to the city is 40,000 fr. 
 
 St. Lazare, 107, rue du Faubourg St. Denis. — This was the 
 ancient convent of the Lazarists ; but it is now converted into 
 a general prison for females committed for trial, or condemned 
 to imprisonment for terms not exceeding one year. The Mai- 
 son Centrals, to which they arc sent for longer periods, is at 
 Clermont. This prison is divided into three sections, altogether 
 distinct from each other ; the first contains, 1 , criminals com- 
 mitted for trial ; 2, those who are undergoing a sentence of im- 
 prisonment ; 3, children under IG years of age. The second 
 section is devoted to prostitutes condemned to short impri- 
 sonment for offences against sanitary or other regulations of 
 the police. There is an infirmary for each section. The children 
 
 (1) The liorrors which look place there during Ihe Revolufion 
 of 1789 gave Ihe Ahbaye a fearful interest. It was one ot the 
 first prisons entered by the bands of assassins in Seplemher 1792 . 
 A mock tribunal here sat upon each viclini, whence they were 
 dismissed to the hands of the furious mob w'ho were waiting w'ilh- 
 out, by whom they were all unpilyingly massacred. 
 
 { 2 ) The annualnumber of debtors senthere ranges between 4S0 
 and goo. The population averages HO. 
 
PRISONS. 79 
 
 are locked up at night in separate cells, where they are strictly 
 watched hy means of galleries extending aU along them, which 
 have windows opening upon them, but protected by bars and 
 lattices. The number of these cells is 200 ; there are besides 
 other cells in an unwholesome part of the building, which 
 are only had recourse to in cases of extreme necessity. The 
 other sections have dormitories of various sizes. There are 
 also pistole cells here, containing from 2 to 3 beds, where 
 prisoners able to pay 2 5 or 32 sous for every ten days may 
 ' enjoy a little more comfort. The infirmary of the prostitutes 
 contains 340 beds, distributed into 17 wards. The prisoners 
 of each section pass the day in different halls, not unhke 
 school-rooms. A sister of St. Joseph, 40 of whom attend this 
 prison, presides at an elevated desk, and strict silence is en- 
 forced during the hours of labour (see p. 74.) The prisoners 
 receive one quarter of their earnings daily, and another 
 quarter on leaving the prison. The children are taught to 
 read and write ; in case of ill-behaviour, they are punished by 
 being excluded from the class for a short period, and this 
 punishment is found extremely effectual. The refectory is on 
 the ground-floor, and consists of a hall, the ceiling of which 
 IS supported by nine columns. Here the prisoners awaiting 
 trial, the condemned prisoners, and the prostitutes that are 
 not connned in the infirmary take their meals at different 
 hours. The cantine, where prisoners may buy any humble 
 dainties they may fancy, furnishes part of the prison 
 revenue. The diet consists of half a litre of broth, witii 
 two-fifths of pulse or vegetables ; on Sundays and Thursdays 
 each prisoner has 125 grammes of meat. A chemin de ronde 
 surrounds the building. The prison has its own bakehouse ; 
 the loaves weigh 700 grammes each, that being the daily ra- 
 tion. The chapel consists of a nave and galleries capable 
 of containing 900 persons. The number of prisoners varies 
 from 900 to 1,100, the annual movement of the population 
 of this prison may be estimated at about 10,000, and the 
 cost 70,000 fr. (see p. 236.) 
 
 Depot des Gondamnes, or Nouveau Bicdtre, rue de la Ro- 
 quettc. — ^This prison is intended as a temporary place of 
 confinement, rarely exceeding six months, for criminals con- 
 demned to hard labour or transportation. It consists of a 
 pile of buildings surrounding a large quadrangular court 180 ft. 
 by 150 ft., three stories high; the lower of which is occupied 
 by workshops, 6cc., the two upper by the prisoners’ cells. 
 The greater part of the western side is allotted to the lodgings 
 of the director and other officers, the general linen store, &c. 
 In this side, too, is the enti’ance, the porter’s lodse, corps-de- 
 
80 GENERAL INFORMATION, 
 
 garde, &c, A small court, added to the eastern side, is Sur- 
 rounded by a commodious chapel and an infirmary containing 
 36 beds. A court, in which surveillants and sentinels constantly 
 keep guard, surrounds the whole ; each prisoner has a separate 
 room, in which he is locked at night ; and there are cachots, 
 or dark chambers, for refractory prisoners, as well as three 
 condemned cells for prisoners under sentence of death. There 
 is a fountain in the middle of the great court. The average 
 number of prisoners is 4 00. Prisoners condemned for crimes 
 of comparatively minor importance may, by applying to the 
 Minister of the Interior, obtain permission to pass the time of 
 their sentence in this prison, on condition of paying 60 cen- 
 times a-day, or 219 francs a-year, to the State. During 
 their stay in the prison, the convicts are generally obliged to 
 work at a trade (see p. 74). The convicts are paid by the piece ; 
 Government takes one-half of their earnings for prison 
 expenses ; of the rest, they receive one half every Saturday, 
 and the remainder on their discharge. But, owing to the limited 
 number of trades pursued in the establishment, few of the 
 convicts here are set to the trade they have been brought up to ; 
 so that they are generally obliged to learn a new one. Nor 
 is there always work sufficient for all the inmates, as that 
 depends upon the demand in the markets ; owing to this cir- 
 cumstance, there are often upwards of 250 men without 
 work, who lounge in the yard, or crowd in winter to the 
 chauffoir, a large heated room on the ground-floor. Every 
 prisoner who has employment works ten hours a-day, but is 
 allowed two hours’ exercise in the open air. The prison diet 
 consists of iy> lb. of coarse but wholesome bread per day ; a 
 broth soup in the morning, and another soup of some kind of 
 pulse for dinner, except twice a- week, when a piece of boiled 
 meat is given instead. The distribution is effected with great 
 regularity ; the provisions are brought into each ward, and 
 each man. on hearing his name called, steps forward and re- 
 ceives his share. The relations or friends of the pri- 
 soners are admitted to see them in the par loir on Sundays 
 and Thursdays from 11 to 3 (see p. 76). The prison is 
 guarded by a detachment of 34 soldiers, and 18 keepers or 
 surveillants are attached to it. This building may be looked 
 upon as a model, both as regards solidity and sanitary condi- 
 tions. It was designed by M. Gau, and built in the short 
 space of 18 months, at a total cost of 1,245,000 fr. Its 
 annual expenditure is 35,000 fr. 
 
 Maison Centrale d’Education CoRRECTiONNELLE, ovPrison 
 des Jeunes Detenus. — This prison, immediately opposite the 
 last-named one, is constructed upon the cellular principle. 
 
 i 
 
 ■I 
 
 .) 
 
 a 
 
PRISONS. 8 1 
 
 |aiid used to receive such male offenders under the age of 1 6 as 
 ^ad been declared by the tribunal incapable of judgment ; they 
 [were here subjected to correctional education for a certain 
 gme, not exceeding their 20th year. In compliance with the 
 Empress’s advice, the inmates have now been sent to various 
 |)enal agricultural establishments in the departments, and the 
 prison is now used for common offenders. 
 
 Connected with prisons we may mention the : 
 
 Soci^Tg DE Patronage des Jeunes Lib^r^s de la Seine.— 
 This excellent institution, founded in 1833, is intended for the 
 management of young prisoners while in confinement at the 
 Maison Centrale, and for observing their conduct after the expi- 
 ration of their punishment. Each member has one or more young 
 prisoners under his own especial care, and whose patron he is. 
 The liberated prisoner is bound apprentice to a trade, and the 
 society assist the family in maintaining him if their means are 
 insufficient. Every individual costs the society on an average 
 80 fr. a-year. The most gratifying effects have already resulted 
 From the efforts of this society, which is also assisted by govern- 
 aaent. The conduct of the prisoners is greatly improved, and 
 Ae number of cases of recommittal diminished from 75* to 7 
 per cent. The government allows the society 70 centimss per 
 lay for each prisoner liberated before the expiration of his time, 
 but only during the remaining period of his sentence, being 
 ;he same allowance as that given to a colony at Mettray, near 
 fours, (1) for young offenders sent thither from prison, and 
 jmployed in mechanical and agricultural work. An annual 
 neeting for the distribution of prizes for good conduct, &c. is 
 leld at the Hbtel de Ville, and a report is published every year 
 fhe secretary’s office is at 9, rue Mezieres. 
 
 There is another association, cs\\&diSoci6t6d6 Po,tTonciQ6 pouT 
 e$ Jeunes Filles liberees et delaissees, 89, Rue de Vaugirard. 
 rhe City pays 4000 fr. a-year to each of these two societies’, 
 ind 4,500 fr. to the colony at Mettray. 
 
 LAWS OF FRANCE AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. 
 
 ^ Births.— The French law requires, in case of Foreign as of 
 rench parents, that within three days every birth be declared lo 
 lie mayor of the arrondissement, and the child taken to the 
 itiay or s officer and produced to the officer who registers the 
 tirth. The father, or in his absence the midwife or medical 
 nan who attended the birth must make the declaration. Twe 
 vitnesses, men or women, are besides necessary to sign the re- 
 
 hc receives yoiing offenders not older than 17 , from 
 
 DC dilierent prisons of kiance, on condition ihat the time still remainimr nf 
 
 JhTorKU"y^'oTsSs^“o^T^^^^^^ 
 
 20 to 30 individuals, under ihc 
 
 6 
 
82 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 gister. Parties not complying with these regulations are liable 
 to fine and imprisonment. The entry in the register is legal 
 evidence in England of the birth. A child horn in France of 
 foreign parents is entitled to all the rights of a Frenchman, on 
 his claiming them within a year after his majority. (1) 1 
 
 Marriages. — A marriage in a foreign country between British | 
 subjects is valid in England either when it has been solemnized j 
 in the house or chapel of the British ambassador by a minister J 
 of the Church of England, or as a general rule when the parlies j 
 have married in the form established in the country in wliich I 
 the marriage is celebrated, and it is valid by the laws of that .j 
 country; or, lastly, since the recent statute of 12 and 13 Victoria, 
 chap. 68, when the marriage has been celebrated before a | 
 British Consul, who has been duly authorized for that purpose, j 
 For a marriage in the Ambassador’s house or cliapel no notice a 
 or previous residence is necessary. The parlies intending to 
 marry at the Embassy in tliis city are required to make oath or 
 declaration before tlie consul to the etiect that tliey are of 
 age, or that the proper consent has been obtained, and tliat 
 there is no lawful impediment to the marriage. To marry 
 according to French law, publication of llie marriage is twice 
 made by the mayor of the commune of each of ttie parties, witli 
 an interval of eight days between each publication. A civil cere ■ 
 mony is celebrated by the mayor of the commune in which one 
 of tlie parties has lived for six months. Tlie parties must pro- 
 duce the certificates of their birth or baptism, or, if not to behad, 
 a declaration of seven persons made liefore the juge de paix of 
 the date and place of birth of the party, and tlie consent of 
 their parents properly authenticated; and, if tliey are dead, 
 certificates of their burial and the consent of the grandfather 
 and grandmother, if living. When the man is upwards of 25, 
 and the woman upwards of 2 i, it is sufficient to sliow that the 
 parents have been applied to for their consent in the manner 
 required by the French law. — To marry at a Britisli Consulate 
 in France both the parties must havedwelt witliin its district not 
 less than one calendar month, next preceding wlien notice is 
 given by one of them to the Consul of the intended marriage. 
 
 A copy of the notice is suspended at the Consulate. The Consul 
 may grant a license for a marriage. When the marriage is by 
 license, both parties have to make oath or declare that there is 
 no impediment to tlieir marriage, that both have liad for one 
 calendar month previously their usual places of abode within 
 the district of the Consul, and that the proper consent has been 
 obtained in case of either of tliem being a minor. At tlie end 
 of 7 days, when a license has been obtained, or otherwise at 
 the end of 21 days from the notice so given, the marriage may 
 be solemnized, in presence of the Consul, according to the form 
 of the Ctiurch of England, or according to any other religious 
 form, or, as a civil ceremony, and by the Consul liimself, as the 
 parlies desire. Tlie fees are : for entering and suspending notice, 
 
 (I) BiiThs and deallis are also registered at tlie Consulate, 
 on payment of /is. (id., Init this does not relieve the parties fiom lue duty 
 of registering Ihom at the office of the mayor. 
 
LAWS AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. 83 
 
 los. ; for every marriage solemnized by licence, 20s. ; without 
 licence, 10s. For the attendance of the Consul at the marriage 
 when by license 20s. 
 
 Deaths. — In case of death, a declaration thereof should im- 
 mediately be made at the mairie by the relatives or friends of 
 the deceased, or by the person at whose house the death took 
 place. The body is then visited by a physician appointed by 
 the mayor to ascertain the causes of dissolution, and cannot be 
 interred without authorisation from him, nor until 24 hours 
 * after decease, except in cases otherwise provided for by the 
 regulations of the police. Tlie burial usually takes place two 
 days after death. If all or any of the lieirs or residuary lega- 
 tees are minors or alisent, the juge de paix can place his seals 
 on tlie papers and effects of the deceased. The seals may also 
 be required by any person interested as creditors or legatees. 
 It a will is found tlie juge de paix delivers it to the president of 
 the tribunal, by whom it is deposited with a notary public. 
 
 Wills. — Wills disposing of real property in England must, 
 whether made there or abroad, be in tlie English form, namely, 
 signed by tlie testator, or by another person in his presence by 
 his direction, and attested in his presence by two witnesses. 
 For personal property in England, the English resident abroad 
 must likewise follow the English form unless he has established 
 his domicile or permanent abode (as distinguished from mere 
 temporary residence) in a foreign country, and then to be valid 
 in the English courts his will must be valid by the law of the 
 country of his domicile. By a recent enactment, however, a 
 British subject, whatever his domicile may he, for his personal 
 property in the United Kingdom, has the choice of making his 
 will either in the form required by the law of the plaee 
 where it Is made, or by the law of the place where he was 
 domiciled when the same was made, or hy the law then 
 in force in that part of her Majesty’s dominions where he liad 
 his domicile of origin. In French law every will made in 
 France in tlie Frencti form, is valid, and according to the opi- 
 nion 0 some, the French form is necessary to the validity in 
 the French courts of every will made in France. With regard to 
 the valid disposal of property by will and to the devolution of 
 property in case of intestacy, for house or landed property, 
 the French law, and when in England, the English law is al- 
 ways followed. For personal property tlie law of the country 
 in which the deceased liad his domicile is followed. It appears 
 to be still a question in the French courts wliethcr a foreigner 
 by settling permanently in France, places his personal pro- 
 perty under the French law in tiiese respects, when he is 
 neither naturalized nor authorized by the government to estab- 
 lish his domicile in France. The French law restrains the 
 power of disposing of properly by deed or will. A testator liaving 
 one legilimate cliild may dispose of not more than half of his pro- 
 perty ; if two cliildren, a third part; if more than two children, a 
 lourth part only will be at liis disposal. Children born out of 
 wedlock whose parents afterwards marry one another are 
 legitimaled, and placed on the same footing as legitimate 
 
84 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 children if they were before the marriage recognised by the 
 father in an authentic manner, as in the register of birth or by 
 declaration before a notary, or even in the marriage act itself. 
 The testator’s power of disposing of his property is also restricted 
 when he leaves relations in the ascending line, neither can he 
 give to a natural child more than the law allots to him upon 
 an intestacy. Natural children, when the issue of adultery from 
 the father or mother being married to another person, or of 
 incest, are incapable of taking under a will. In default of a will, 
 all the children inherit alike, without distinction of sex or age ; 
 the natural children when recognised in the manner required 
 by law, also inheriting, but only, in case there are legitimate 
 children, for one-third of the share they wmuld have taken if legi- 
 timate, and for one-half of such share if the deceased left a parent 
 or brothers, or sisters. Differently from the English law again, 
 representation is admitted for collaterals in favour of the issue 
 of brothers or sisters only. In the case of the failure of legiti- 
 mate heirs, the property passes entirely to the recognised natural 
 children, and failing such, to the surviving husband or wife of 
 d0C0fts©d. 
 
 Succession or Legacy-duty.— This duty is payable to the 
 French government in respect of all property left in France by 
 foreigners, whether they were residing in France or not at the 
 time of their decease, and though the same property may be 
 chargedwith a similar duty in the country to which he belongs. 
 The duty is as follows:— For the husband or wife of the de- 
 ceased, 3 per cent. ; for persons in the ascending or dsscending 
 line, 4 per cent. For brothers or sisters, uncles or aunts, ne- 
 phews and nieces 6 1/2 per cent. For grand-uncles, grand-aunts, 
 grand-nephews, and grand-nieces, and cousins-german, ^ per 
 cent. For relations beyond the 4 th and up to the 12th degree, 
 9 per cent., and for strangers in blood, 9 per cent. In case of 
 a life interest the life tenant pays one-half of the duty, and the 
 reversioner the whole duty, and both duties are to be paid at 
 once. To the above rates must be added one-tenth and half a 
 tenth of the amount of the duty. The duty is taken on the 
 value of the property the day of the death. It must be paid 
 within 6 months from the decease, in default of which, a 
 further sum equal to one-half of the duty is incurred. 
 
 Residence, Domicile, Naturalization. — Foreigners residing in 
 France are bound to observe all laws and regulations for the 
 maintenance of public order or safety; but the civil courts ex- 
 ercise no jurisdiction over matters in dispute between foreigners 
 when they are not settled in France. This rule, however, is 
 often evaded by entrusting the matter to a friend, and is more- 
 over liable to many exceptions, as in case of commercial 
 transactions, or when the subject of litigation is landed property 
 in France, and is departed from in favour of French subjects, who 
 can cite before the French courts (serving the process a,tthebar of 
 theProcureur Imperial) even foreigners not living in France, and 
 though the cause of action arose in another country. To obtain a 
 complete domicile and the enjoyment of all the rights of a French- 
 man, apart from political rights, the authority of the government 
 
LAWS AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. 85 
 
 lo fix his domicile is necessary for a foreigner. He is then free 
 from arrest in the same cases as a Frenchman ; he need not 
 give security for costs, and can cite another foreigner before 
 the French courts, etc. The Emperor decides on applica- 
 tions for naturalization; it can only be granted after en- 
 quiry into the character of the foreigner and on the favourable 
 report of the Council of State. The applicant must have ob- 
 tained permission to fix his domicile in France, and have resided 
 ten years in the country subsequently lo this permission. But 
 such residence for one year will be suflicient for foreigners who 
 lhave rendered the country great service, or who have brought 
 to it either a useful discovery or distinguished talents, or who 
 have opened great establishments in it. Until naturalization, a 
 foreigner may be ordered by the Minister of the Interior to leave 
 the country, without assigning a reason. 
 
 Arrest for Debt. — Foreigners who have not been authorised 
 by the Government to establish their domicile in France, 
 are liable to arrest on a judgment recovered against them 
 at the suit of a French creditor, whether the Frenchman is 
 the original creditor, or has become so by indorsement of a 
 Jjill of exchange or promissory note, for not less than ibo fr. ; 
 they may also be arrested before judgment and without notice 
 by order of the President of the Tribunal, given on application 
 of such French creditor, unless they can show that they possess 
 in France a commercial establishment, or real property of suffi- 
 cient value. The length of imprisonment, when the debt 
 has been contracted in the course of trade, or arises on a bill 
 of exchange, is limited to 3 months, for a sum under 500 fr., 
 to 6 months for under looo fr., to 9 months for under 1500 fr., 
 and to a year when the sum does not amount to 2000 fr. The 
 imprisonment is not to exceed 3 years for a sum of 6OOO fr. or up- 
 wards. When the debt is not of the nature above described the 
 length of the imprisonment is to be fixed by the judgment, and 
 must be from six months to five years. Arrest must not take 
 place before sunrise nor after sunset; nor on holidays; nor in 
 any house whatever, even in the domicile of the debtor, if en- 
 jtrance is refused, unless authorised by the Juge de Paix, who 
 must in such case accompany the officer. The prisoner may 
 demand to be taken to the President of the Tribunal de Premiere 
 Instance, who will decide as an arbitrator. — The keeper of the 
 prison, on receiving the prisoner, must enter in the register the 
 judgment which authorises the arrest. This must also certify 
 the deposit of at least one month's prison allowance by the 
 creditor, who must always make this deposit beforehand. A 
 debtor may obtain his liberation by the payment of a third of the 
 amount and costs, and giving for the remainder a surety accepted 
 by the creditor, or approved by the Court; by the default of the 
 creditor to deposit one month’s prison allowance, fixed at 30 fr, ; 
 or by the prisoner having entered his 7oth year. In case of non- 
 payment of prison-allowance, the debtor is entitled to an order 
 from the court for his release, provided he apply before the money 
 is paid ; and he cannot again be arrested by the creditor, except 
 pn paynient of all costs incurred by the former in obtaining }ti| 
 
86 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 Ulieration, with a deposit of 6 months’ allowance in advance, in 
 the hands of the prison-keeper. — The above is the law as it 
 stands at present, but a bill tending to the abolition o>f arrest, 
 as a geneial rule, is now before ibe Legislature. 
 
 Biu.s OF Evchange. — By the law of France all endorsements 
 upon bills of exchange, &c., are recpiired to be special. Unless ' 
 a bill of exchange is payable to order it cannot be negotialed. 
 The holder of a bill of exchange protested for non-payment may, 
 upon procuring the order of a judge, distrain the goods and 
 chattels of the drawer, the acceptor, and tiie indorsers; which, 
 when so taken, are deposited in the hands of justice to answer ] 
 the amount of the debt. Actions upon bills of exchange are li- jl 
 mited to 5 years from the date of tl»e protest, or from ttie last 
 proceedings upon it: but different and frequently contradictory 
 opinions have been held by judges respecting the interpretation 
 of the hiw of 183 ‘i, and of certain clauses of the code regarding 
 bills of exchange, and all questions concerning “ debt. ’ 
 
 Amb.\ssadors, Consuls, &c. — By the law of nations, the liotel 
 of an amhassador is considered as forming part of the territory 
 of the nation which he represents. This, however, does not 
 invalidate the right of a child of a foreigner, born within the pre- 
 cincts of the hotel, to become a French subject on its coming 
 of age. The ambassador is privileged from all civil and criminal 
 proceedings, and so are his servants, secretaries, ^Icc. ; but the 
 same privilege does not apply to a consul. Theduties of a consul 
 are very extensive : he has to watch over the commercial interests 
 of his nation ; to protect his countrymen who may be in distress, 
 and in some cases to exercise judicial authority over them. In 
 Paris it is addedtothe embassy, and the olliceis in thesamehotel. 
 
 Copyright. — By the French law the authors of works of 
 literature, and composers, painters, engravers, &c., enjoy the 
 sole property and disposal of their works, during their own lives ; 
 to their widows for life, if entitled to it under the marriage-con- 
 tract ; to the children of the author for 20 years from bis decease, 
 or from the decease of the survivor of him and his widow, if 
 the latter takes a life-interest; to the author’s other heirs or 
 assignees (if he leaves no children) for 10 years from his decease. 
 The copyright is possessed by dramatic authors during life, 
 and by their families or heirs for 5 years after. The importation 
 into France of works originating there, and pirated in a foreign 
 country, is a misdemeanor. Authors may dispose of their 
 property to another person, who then becomes entitled to the 
 same rights. English aulhors have since 18.52 equal rights 
 wilh French authors, on deposiliiig wilhin 3 months afler pub- 
 lication 2 copies of their works at the Ministry of the Interior, 
 and registering a proper declaration. 
 
 Patents. — To take out a patent in France all that is required 
 is the payment in advance of 100 fr. per annum during the term 
 of the patent, and the patentee can at any lime discontinue the 
 payment, if he finds his patent unproductive, which in that case 
 becomes public property. The non-payment of the annual sum 
 of 100 fr. wilhin the exact period allowed immediately annuls 
 
LAWS affecting BRITISH RESIDENTS. 87 
 
 the patent right. Patents of importation are no longer granted, 
 but a patentee in a foreign country, and he only, can take out a 
 patent for the same object in France, either in person or by an 
 agent in Paris duly authorized by him. As there is no obligation 
 to continue the payments if theinvention should prove unprofit- 
 able, patents are generally taken out for tlie full term of 15 
 years. When, however, a patent for the same invention exists 
 in a foreign country, it will be good in France no longer than 
 for the term that remains on the original. A patent is lo»t if 
 networked in France within two years from its date, or during 
 any tw'o (consecutive years witliin the term granted, unless suf- 
 ficient cause he shown to justify this neglect. 
 
 Trade Marks. — The recent treaty of commerce places British 
 subjects on an equal fooling with the French with respect to re- 
 dress in France for the usurpation or fraudulent imitation of 
 llieir Irade marks. 
 
 Game. — Permission to carry a gun (port d’armes) may be ob- 
 tained at any prefecture ; it costs 25 fr., and is valid for only 
 1 year. The sportsman should always carry it about him, since 
 aiiy authorised guard may always demand to see it ; and, if not 
 produced, a summons before a tribunal may be made, which 
 will he attended with expense. Sporting must not be on an- 
 other’s property without leave, and on no uninclosed property 
 out of the season, which is generally from 1st Sept, to 1st March. 
 
 Fishing. — Every person is allowed to fish with the line only, 
 the spawning-season excepted, in all rivers, canals, and navigable 
 streams belonging to government, and in all dependencies of 
 such streams, &c., where a fishing-boat can pass. Every person 
 fishing in private waters, without permission of the owner, is 
 liable to a fine of from 20 fr. to 100 fr., besides damages. 
 
 National Guard. — Foreigners who have not been authorised 
 by the Government to establish their domicile in France, are not 
 liable to serve in tlie national guard. 
 
 Innkeepers and masters of hotels, in France, are responsible 
 for the property brought into their house by a traveller, and 
 for all robberies committed by servants or strangers, except in 
 the case of an armed or superior force, or where tlie property, 
 being of a very considerable value, was not shown to them, or 
 the existence of it mentioned wlien tlie traveller came to the 
 hotel, especially if any negligence as to locking-up, &c.. can 
 be shown against the owner. Their responsibility holds good 
 even if tl le traveller leaves the key in the lock of his door during 
 the night, because he has aright to count upon the same security 
 as if he were in his own house ; but not so if he leaves the key in 
 during the day, because that is held to he an act of imprudence. 
 Innkeepers and persons letting furnished lodgings may detain 
 the effects of a lodger in case of non-payment, except the clothes 
 actually in use ; they cannot appropriate the elfecis of a deceased 
 or departed guest, hut must obtain the authority of the Tribunal 
 de Premit'ire Instance to sell sufficient to satisfy their claim. 
 
 Servants, if hired by the day, are paid accordingly, and dis- 
 missett at pleasure ; those hired by the year are paid by the ca- 
 
88 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 lendar month, and are entitled to eight days’ warning or wages 
 on being dismissed, but must, if required, serve the eight days. 
 When the servant gives warning, or demands to be dismissed, 
 the eight days are not payable unless the master requires the 
 service of the party during that period. The master is in all 
 cases believed on affirmation as to the amount and payment of 
 wages (see p. 12 .) 
 
 Apartments. — An apartment taken furnished at so much per 
 week or month is presumed in the absence of written proof to the 
 contrary, to be taken by the week or month, and notice to quit 
 can only be given for the end of a current week or month and 
 before the latter half of it begins, failing which the tenancy con- 
 tinues to the end of the following week or month. When, 
 however, the apartment is taken for a specific period, and there 
 is written proof of it, no notice is necessary. If the tenant 
 remains and is allowed to remain in possession beyond the 
 time, the tenancy continues at the same rent. The rent is paid 
 in advance. When there is no written agreement to the con- 
 trary an apartment in Paris taken unfurnished is taken by the 
 quarter or terme. The rent is paid at the end of each quarter. 
 Notice to quit must he given 6 weeks before the end of a quar- 
 ter for a rent under 400 fr. ayear,and when above that sum the 
 notice must be given before the commencement of that quarter. 
 Strictly, and for giving notice, the quarter begins on the tst of 
 January, of April, of July, and of October, Jiut for the payment 
 of rent and for coming in and going out, and when the rent 
 is above 400 fr. it begins on the 15th of these months. During 
 the last quarter the tenant is bound to show the apartment at 
 proper hours to persons applying to see it. The notice to quit 
 should be accepted in writing by the landlord or given through 
 a huissier. The death of the tenant does not put an end to 
 the tenancy. In the absence of any writing and until possession 
 hp been taken, the party denying the tenancy is believed on 
 his oath. For the amount of the rent and its payment the evi- 
 dence of the landlord is preferred to that of the tenant, but 
 the latter can call for a valuation. The tenant is bound to de- 
 liver up the apartment in the same condition in which the 
 inventory or etat des lieux described it to be, and if no such 
 inventory was made he is presumed to have received it in a 
 good state of tenantable repair, and he is bound to restore it 
 accordingly without any allowance for natural wear and tear ; 
 he is not responsible for the effects of time or for any other 
 damage which happened from causes beyond his control, or 
 which he can prove, to have existed before he entered, He is 
 liable for damage by fire, unless he can prove that the fire 
 broke out in another apartment, or that it could not have 
 broken out in his own, or tha^ it arose froni bad construction or 
 force mdjeure. 
 
LAWS AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. 
 
 89 
 
 FORM OF A LEASE, 
 
 Je , propri6taire (or) principal locataire de inaison, la lone A M. 
 
 , (or) lone a M. , appartement, au 6tage, dans ladite maison 
 
 {describing them accurately)^ pour — ann6es, qui commenceront A courir 
 
 de {the day) pour prix {amount) payable A ( time of payment)^ et sous 
 
 tontes les obligations imposdes aux locataires et r6gl6es par le Code civil. 
 
 Et moi ( the lessee) je prends la pr6sente location conime et ainsi qu’elle est 
 
 ci-dessus stipulee. Fait double entre nous, ^ ^ le , mil huit cent 
 
 soiiaute . {Signatures.} 
 
 I 
 
 PllBlie INSTlTliTIOtiS. 
 
 INSTITUT DE FRANCE. — The National Convention, by a 
 decree of 1793, abolished all the literary and scientific societies, 
 denominated academies, established under Louis XIII. and 
 Louis XIV., and the arts and sciences seemed condemned to 
 oblivion. After the fall of Robespierre, however, the Con- 
 vention appointed a committee for the preservation of the 
 monuments of France, created the Polytechnic school, opened 
 the colleges, founded the Conservatoire de Musique, Conservatoire 
 des Arts et Metiers, 8cc., and hy a decree of Oct. 26, 1795 (3d 
 Rrumaire, an III.), established the Institut, to replace the acade- 
 mies, and the Directory apppinted a number of members, whom 
 they authorised to elect others. The Institute was divided into 
 three classes ; I . physical and mathematical sciences ; 2 . moral 
 and political sciences; 3. literature and the fine arts. Rona- 
 parte, who was elected a member of the first class (Dec. 25th 
 1797), having'become Consul, divided the Institute into four 
 classes (1803): 1. physical and mathematical sciences; 2. 
 French language and literature; 3. ancienthistoryandliterature; 
 4.thefinearts. In 1816, Louis XVIII.changedthe four classes into 
 four academies, viz. 1. the Academic Franfaise; 2. the Academie 
 Royale des Inscriptions et Belles-Lettres; 3. the Academie 
 Royale des Sciences ; 4. the Academie Royale des Beaux-Arts, 
 and some of the most celebrated members being dismissed, 
 others were substituted by royal nomination, and the acade- 
 mies taken under the special protection of the king. In 1832, 
 a fifth Academie, under the name of Academie des Sciences 
 Morales et PoUtiques, was added. The funds common to 
 all the academies are managed by a committee of 1 0 members, 
 two from each academy, presided by the Minister of Public 
 Instruction. Tlie nominations to vacant places are balloted 
 for ip each aegderny, subject however to the approval of th9 
 
90 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 Emperor. The members of one academy are eligible to all the 
 others. Each receives a salary of loOO fr. Every time a 
 member attends, he receives a silver counter to denote that he 
 was present; non-attendance during the year exposes to a 
 line, and permanent absence, witliout sufficient cause, to ex- 
 pulsion. Each academy has its special rules and funds. The 
 library, &c., are common to all. Their annual meetings are 
 held as follows. — Academic Frangaise, the first Thursday in 
 May; — Academic des Inscriptions et Belles-Lettres, ihe fu'st 
 Friday in July ; — Academic des Scmices, last Monday in Ja- 
 nuary; — Academic des Beaux Arts, first Saturday in Oc- 
 tober ; — Academic des Sciences Morales et Politiques, the fii’st 
 Saturday in January. A general annual sitting of all the acade- 
 mies is held in August. The Institute comprises 223 members, 
 besides 7 secretaries, 35 free academicians, who receive no 
 salary, 31 associates, and 22 5 correspondents. 
 
 The Acadernie Frangaise coi\sis,[.s of 40 members; this sec- 
 tion is specially charged with the composition of the Dictionary, 
 and the extension and purification of the language. It adjudges 
 an annual prize of 2000 fr. for poetry or eloquence, besides 
 two annual prizes founded by M. Monthyon, one for the work 
 most useful to public morals, and another for some distin- 
 guished act of virtue displayed by a poor native of France; it 
 likewise awards a prize each year, given by M. Gobert, of 
 10,000 fr., for the most eloquent work on French history, and 
 accords a gratuity of 1,500 fr. every alternate year, the gift of 
 Count Maille de la Tour Landry, to some deserving hut indigent 
 young man of letters. Private meetings on Thursdays at 3 p.m. 
 
 The Academie des Inscriptions ei Belles-Lettres is composed 
 of 40 members, and 10 free academicians, besides foreign as- 
 sociates and correspondents. The learned languages, antiqui- 
 ties, and monuments, the translation of Greek, Latin, and Ori- 
 ental works into the French language, and the formation of 
 archa'ological collections, are within their sphere. (1) This 
 academy awards an annual prize of 2,000 fr. for the most learn- 
 ed work on French History, and another for pumismatics, 
 founded by M. d’Auteroche. It furtlier awards 3 medals of 
 500 fr. each for the best works on Frcmh antiquities, and a 
 prize founded by M. Gobert. It meets on Fridays at 3 p.m. 
 
 (1) This Academy publishes — i . Ses Memoircs, 4to ; 2 . Les 
 moires qui lui sonl pr6sentes par divers savanls, 4lo; 3. Les 
 Notices des Manuscrils, 4lo ; 4. Les M6moires sur les AnliquiWs 
 de la France, 4lo ; 5. L’histoire litteraire de la France, 4to ; 
 6. Collecliou (les TTisloires de France, folio ; 7. Les Charles el Do- 
 cuments relalifs a I’Hisloire de France, et les Lettres des rois de 
 France, folio ; 8. Le Catalogue des Charles, folio- 
 
ACAD^MIE FRAiNgAlSE. 91 
 
 The Academie des Sciences contains 08 memhers (including 
 the two secretaries), 10 free academicians, and 8 foreign asso- 
 ciates, besides correspondents. It is divided into 1 1 sections, 
 as follows ; — geometry, 0 members; mechanics, C ; astronomy, 
 
 6 ; geography and navigation, 0 ; general natural philosophy, 
 
 6 ; cheniistry, 0 ; mineralogy, C ; botany, 0 ; rural economy 
 and the veterinary art, C ; anatomy and zoology, C; medicine 
 and surgery, o. This academy awards a considerable num- 
 ber of prizes, of from 500 fr. to 3,000 fr., foi essays on given 
 subiecls. Among tbe founders of tliese prizes M. de Monthyon 
 stands first. A prize of 20,000 fr., towards which the Em- 
 peror contributes one-half, is open to competition for the ap- 
 plication of the regeneration of bone to surgery ; and a sum 
 of 10 (J ,000 fr. has been left by the late M. Breant for the dis - 
 covoivr of a specific remedy for the Asiatic cholera. Until 
 this prize be awarded, the interest of the capital may be ap- 
 plied annually as a reward to those wbo have approached 
 nearest to the solution of the problem (l). Public meetings 
 every Monday, at 3 p.m. 
 
 The Academie des Beaux-Arts is composed of 4t members, 
 including the perpetual secretary, and 10 free academicians, 
 besides associates. It is divided into five sections, viz. paint- 
 ing, 14 members ; sculpture, 8 ; architecture, 8 ; engiaving, 4 ; 
 musical composition, 0. Meetings every Saturday at 3 p.m. 
 
 The Academie des Sciences Morales et Politiques, restored 
 by an ordonnance of Louis Philippe (Oct. 2 6, 1832), is, since 
 April, 1835, composed of 40 academicians, divided into C sec- 
 tions ; — philosophy; moral philosophy; legislation, public 
 law and jurisprudence; political economy and statistics; his- 
 tory and the philosophy of history ; and lastly, a new section 
 of 10 members, under the title of “ Political, Administrative, 
 and Financial Section.” At least one annual prize is given. 
 This academy has 5 free academicians and also 5 foreign as- 
 sociates, among whom are Lord Brougham and Mr. M’Cul- 
 loch. It meets on Saturdays, at noon. 
 
 A perpetual secretary is attached to each academy, except to 
 that of sciences, which has two. 
 
 BUREAU DES LONGITUDES.— This society, formed m 
 1795, for the discovery of methods for the more accurate de- 
 termination of longitudes at sea, and for the improvement of 
 navigation by means of astronomical observations, holds its 
 meetings at the Observatory. By a decree of January, 1854, 
 it is composed of 9 titular members, viz. ; 2 members of the 
 
 (1) This Academy publishes — i . Compte-Rendu deses Stances; 
 2 . Uecueil de sesM^inoires ; 3. Recueil de M(5inoires des sa\aolR 
 strangers a I’Acad^mie. 
 
92 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 Academy of Sciences, 3 astronomers, 2 members belonging to 
 the department of the Navy, 1 belonging to the War depart- 
 ment, and 1 geograplier. There are besides 4 assistant- 
 members, viz. ; 1 member of the Academy of Sciences, 2 
 astronomers, and 1 member belonging to the Navy-office. To 
 these are added 3 artists. The Bureau compiles the Annuaive 
 des Longitudes and the yearly astronomical tables, called Con- 
 naissance des Temps, the latter being published at least 3 years 
 beforehand. It also devotes its attention to improvements in 
 astronomical instruments, the calculation of tides, and mag- 
 netic variations, 8cc. The 
 
 OBSERVATORY is a distinct establishment, under the 
 management of a director, 4 astronomers, a professor of na- 
 tural philosophy, and several assistant-astronomers and pupils. 
 The instruments, &c., are under the control of the director, who 
 publishes the observations made, during the year, and corres- 
 ponds with the Minister of Public Instruction and with foreign 
 observatories. The observations of chronometers, &c., are com- 
 municated to the mercantile navy. Director, M. Leverrier (1). 
 
 CONSEIL IMPERIAL DE L’lNSTRUCTION PUBLIQUE.— 
 It is believed that Charlemagne was the founder of the Univer- 
 sity of Paris, so celebrated in the history of France. In 1789, 
 the 10 or 12 universities in France, and all its religious col- 
 leges, were suppressed, and no definite plan of public in- 
 struction adopted, until Napoleon I. established one im- 
 perial University, consisting of twenty -five academies, 
 for all France, under the direction of a council and a grand 
 master. Louis XVIII. abolished the latter, but kept up the aca- 
 demies. The council was afterwards re-established under the 
 title of Conseil Royal de V Instruction Publique, and, in 1822, 
 the office of grand master was restored, and the minister of 
 Public Instruction invested with it. Since then, a decree of 
 March 9th 1852, has established a Supreme Council of 
 Public Instruction presided by the Minister of Public In- 
 struction, and composed of five bishops or archbishops, 
 three Senators, three Councillors’ of State, three members of 
 the Court of Cassation, three ministers belonging to the 
 Lutheran, Reformed and Jewish creeds, five members of the 
 institute, eight inspectors-general, and two heads of private 
 establishments of instruction. All the members are named 
 
 {l).This establishment now publishes the Bulletin de I'Observa- 
 toire, (mntaining the daity barometrical readings telegraphed 
 from the most important points Of the coasts of France, with 
 remarks relating to the fore-casting of storms at sea. The Ob- 
 servatory communicates daily with Admiral Fitzroy’s department 
 in England for this purpose, ^ ■ 
 
COUNCIL OF PUBLIC INSTRUCTION. 93 
 
 by the Emperor for one year. The Supreme Council assembles 
 at least twice a-year. It gives its opinion on bills concerning 
 public instruction, on regulations respecting examinations, 6cc., 
 and has the control over all the Councils of Academies in France, 
 which are now 16, viz. Aix, Besancon, Bordeaux, Caen, Cler- 
 mont, Dijon, Douai, Grenoble, Lyon, Montpellier, Nancy, Pa- 
 ris, Poitiers, Rennes, Strasbourg, and Toulouse. Every de- 
 partment has a departmental Council of Public Instruction un- 
 der the presidence of the prefect. All the academies have 
 lyceumiS (grammar-schools), colleges, and schools of primary 
 instruction under their jurisdiction, and all have faculties either 
 of law, medicine, literature, or sciences. (1) 
 
 Public Instruction in France is distinguished into Instruc- 
 tion Superieure, comprising the faculties ; Instruction Secon- 
 daire, comprising lyceuras and communal colleges ; and In- 
 structiion Primaire, comprising elementary schools. There 
 are 8 inspectors-general for the faculties, 6 for the establish- 
 ments of secondary, and two for those of primary instruction. 
 
 The Academy of Paris possesses a library at the Sorbonne, 
 and consists of 5 faculties — Sciences, Letters, Theology, Law, 
 and Medicine. The first three are estabhshed at the Sorbonne, 
 where the annual programmes of the lectures may be 
 obtained. 
 
 Sciences. — To obtain the following degrees the candi- 
 date must be bachelier es lettres, or else undergo a 
 previous trial, consisting of a translation, both oral and 
 in writing, from the Latin into French : Bachelier es 
 Sciences : logic, history, and geography ; pure and mixed 
 mathematics (arithmetic, geometry, trigonometry, conic sec- 
 tions, surveying, levelling, projections, cosmography, mecha- 
 nics, and hydraulics); natural philosophy, chemistry, zoology, 
 animal physiology, botany, and geology, — all within the limits 
 of the programmes of the imperial lyceums. Licenciees sciences 
 mathernatiques : differential and integral calculus, mechanics, 
 and physical astronomy . Licenciees sciences physiques : chemis- 
 try, physics, and mineralogy. Licencie es sciences naturelles : 
 botany, geology, zoology, and anatomy. To become a licen- 
 tiate, the degree of bachelor must have been taken, and two 
 
 (1) In France there are 6 faculties of catholic theology, esta- 
 blished at Paris, Rennes, Bordeaux, Lyons, Aix, and Toulouse; and 
 2 of protestant theology, at Strasburg and Montpellier. There 
 are 9 faculties of law, at Paris, Caen, Dijon, Grenoble, Toulouse, 
 Aix, Poitiers, Rennes, and Strasburg. Three faculties of medi- 
 cine, at Paris, Montpellier, and Strasburg. Six faculties of 
 sciences and letters, at Paris, Caen, Dijon, Grenoble, Montpel- 
 lier, and Bordeaux. 
 
94 
 
 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 courses of the faculty must have been followed in the same year. 
 Doctcur es sciences : candidates are required to sustain two 
 theses on the subjects of one of the 3 licentiates’ examinations. 
 
 Letters. — To obtain the degree of Bachelier es lettres, the 
 candidate must be t fi at least, and undergo two examinations, 
 one in writing, consisting of three compositions, and the 
 other oral, on Greek, Latin, and French authors, and, at his 
 request, on a living language ; also on all matters taught in 
 the classes of rhetoric and philosophy. (1) Licencie es 
 lettres : the candidate must be a bachelor of one year’s stand- 
 ing, and have taken four inscriptions. The examinations 
 consist of compositions in French, Latin, and Greek, and in 
 literary, philosophical, and historical questions. Docteur es 
 lettres, for this he must he a licentiate, and sustain two 
 theses; one in Latin, the other in French, on two distinct 
 subjects witliin the compass of the instruction given in the 
 faculty, and at the choice of thecanidate. 
 
 Theology ; — Dogmatic theology, moral theology, sacred 
 scriptures, ecclesiastical law, sacred eloquence, and Hebrew. 
 The degrees of bachelor, licentiate, and doctor, are also con- 
 ferred in this faculty. (2) 
 
 The Faculty of Lcno is established at the Ecole de Droit, 
 Place du Pantheon. There are 18 professors who lecture on 
 the general introduction to the study of law, the civil code, civil 
 and criminal procedure and criminal legislation, commercial 
 code, administrative law, code Napoleon, comparative cri- 
 minal law and penal legislation ; law of nations, Roman 
 law. Pandects, history of Roman and French law. To he ad- 
 mitted to follow these courses, in order to become an avoue, 
 he must inscribe his name as a student (3) ; hut to graduate 
 in this faculty he must besides he bachelier es lettres. 
 Bachelier en droit : two examinations are necessary for 
 this degree, which is taken at the end of the second year ; 
 the first in the civil code and the institutes of Justinian ; the 
 second in the civil code, and the codes of procedure, penal 
 laws, and criminal process. Licencie en droit : a third year’s 
 study is requisite for this degree, and two examinations, one 
 in Roman law, the other in civil and commercial codes, and 
 
 (1) See “ Manuel du Raccalaureal fes Lettres. ” 
 
 ( 2 ) By an orclonnance of Dec. 25, 1830 , no one can be a pro- 
 fessor of theology witliout liaving taken the degree o( doctor in 
 that facutty ; nor curate of a chief town or any' higher functionary 
 in the cliurch, without being a licentiate; nor curate of a cliief 
 town of a canton without being bachelier, unless the functions of 
 olliciating minister have been performed by liim for 10 years. 
 
 ( 2 ) The number of law-students in 1 865 was 2,744. 
 
THE FACULTIES. 95 
 
 iu atdmiuislrative law, besides a thesis. Docteur en droit : 
 a fomrth year is necessary for this degree ; two examinations 
 and a thesis consisting of two dissertations, one of which 
 must: be on Roman law. 
 
 Hue Faculty of Medicine, and everything relating to that 
 scienice, is specially treated of in Chapter VII. (see p. 130). 
 
 Thie title of agrege, which is independent of the usual de- 
 grees,, is obtained after a most difficult examination by com- 
 petitiion, by such as aspire to a chair in the University. The 
 salarries of the professors vary from 2,000 fr. to 8,000 fr. All 
 their - lectures are public and gratuitous. 
 
 Tine numlier of students attending the faculties of the Uni- 
 versiity of Paris amounts to about 2,000, for law, 3,000 for 
 mediicine, and 1,500 for the sciences. Foreigners wishing to 
 follow the lectures of the faculties of law, letters, medicine, or 
 the ssciences, are admitted to take out their first inscription on 
 prodiucing certificates required in their o^yn countries for ad- 
 mission into faculties of the same order, if found to be equi- 
 valemt to the French diploma of bachelier es lettres. 
 
 SCGHOOLS AND LYCEUMS.— College Imperial de France 
 1, Pdace Cambray, instituted iu 1530 by Francois I.— At this 
 colle 3 ge 34 professors give public and gratuitous lectures on the 
 follonving subjects : — astronomy ; mathematics ; general and 
 expe 3 i’imental philosophy ; medicine ; chemistry ; natural his- 
 tory ; comparative embryogeiiy ; natural, comparative, and 
 naticonal law ; history, political economy, arch<Tology ; Hebrew, 
 Challdee, Syriac, Arabic, Persian, Turkish, Chinese, Mantchou- 
 Tarttar, and Sanscrit ; Greek literature ; Greek and Latin phi- 
 loso)phy; Latin eloquence; Latin poetry ; French literature of 
 the nniddle ages, as also modern ; literature of modern Europe; 
 Sclaivonic literature, epigraphy and Roman antiquities. 
 
 MIusee Imperial d’HistoireNaturelle, Jardindes Plantes. 
 — At college or body of 17 professors gives lectures on natural 
 histcory ; pahcontology ; comparative physiology, anatomy and 
 natuiral history of man ; comparative anatomy ; general and 
 pracjticat chemistry ; mineralogy; geology; botany; vegetable 
 phyrsiology ; rural botany; cultivation of plants; physics 
 appllied to natural history. There are 15 assistant preparers, 
 1 liibrarian, and other officers, besides 2 masters for instruc- 
 tioiii in drawing and painting flowers, and an establishment 
 of piaiuters of subjects of natural history (see p. 4 27.) 
 
 ClONSERVATOiRE desArtset METIERS, 292 , rueSt. Martin.— 
 This establisinnent, especially intended for the technical edu- 
 catiion of manufacturers, mechanics, and other workmen, con- 
 taiins, according to the last regulations, 14 professorships of 
 pracctical and descriptive geometry ; natural philosophy and 
 
9 GENERAL INEORMAtlON. 
 
 explanation of machines; agriculture; mechanics, economy 
 and legislation, relating to manufactures ; statistics, civil ar- 
 chitecture, drawing; practical chemistry, the ceramic arts, 
 practical agriculture, spinning and weaving, dying and print- 
 ing textile fabrics. There are also Sunday lectures on various 
 subjects (see p. 2 56.) All are gratuitous, and the expense 
 supported by the State. 
 
 Ecole Normale, 45, rue d’Ulra.— This institution, esta- 
 blished in 1808 , is intended for the education of young men 
 who wish to become candidates for professorships. To be ad- 
 mitted, they must be between the ages of 17 and 23, must 
 have taken the degrees of bachelier es lettres and bachelier es 
 sciences, and must have terminated their studies, philosophy 
 included, in a lyceum or in a college communal de plein 
 exercice. The course of education in this scliool lasts three 
 years ; but two additional years must be passed in a superior 
 division of the school to obtain the doctor’s degree, or be- 
 come an agrege in a faculty. The establishment is admi- 
 nistered by 3 directors, under the control of the Minister of 
 Public Instruction. There are 18 professors and 80 pupils. (1) 
 
 Lycecms. — Since 1852, the lyceums or grammar-schools 
 comprise three divisions ; viz. an elementary one, one of gram- 
 mar, which all the pupils belong to until the age of 1 5 ; and 
 another, called the superior division, where sciences’ and 
 literature are taught. The division of grammar comprises the 
 six classes below the third ; the other, the third and second 
 classes, and those of rhetoric and philosophy. The literary 
 section of the upper division prepares pupils for the faculties 
 of letters and jurisprudence ; the scientific section prepares 
 them for the faculties of sciences and medicine, the Polytechnic 
 and other special schools, and commercial pursuits. Pupils 
 must pass four years in the division of grammar, and three 
 in the upper one. The lyceums are visited once a year at 
 least by inspectors. Each lyceum has a proviseur, or head 
 of the establishment, a censeur des etudes, who has the dis- 
 cipline, a treasurer, and a chaplain. (2) In Paris, the terms for 
 boarders are: 1st division, 950 fr. ; 2 d, 1050 fr.; 3d, 1150 fr.; 
 for outdoor pupils, 120 fr., 150 fr., and 200 fr. respectively, 
 and 60fr., 7 5fr., and 100 fr. for extraordinary classes. For the 
 higher mathematics the charges are: boarders, I 500 fr. ; out- 
 door pupils, 250fr., extraordinary classes, 120 fr. Music, danc- 
 ing, &c., are extra charges. The course of education comprises 
 
 (1) All towns possessing faculties have also normal schools for 
 providing the lyceums with masters and elementary teachers. 
 They are called Ecoles Normales Superieures , 
 
 ( 2 ) The salaries for Paris arc as follows: — Proviseurs, 6,oeo 
 
SCHOOLS AND LYCEUMS. 97 
 
 Greek, Latin, English, German, Spanish, and Italian ; philo- 
 sophy, physics, chemistry, mathematics, history and geo- 
 graphy. The study of living languages is enforced in the 
 sixth, fifth, and fourth classes ; it is optional in the higher ones. 
 Classes for industrial pursuits have now been added to the 
 Lyceums . There are in Paris six lyceums, between the pupils 
 of which, and the lyceum of Versailles, there is a competition 
 (Grand Concours) for prizes at the end of each year. Each 
 lyceum s-ends ten of the best pupils of each class from the 
 fourth upwards, to the Sorbonne, where the competition takes 
 place. Similar concours are organised in each of the 1 6 Aca- 
 demies, and ultimately the victors througliout all France com- 
 pete togcither for the Prix du Ministre. The proclamation of 
 the prizes takes place with great pomp at the Sorbonne, in the 
 presence of the whole corps universitaire. — The following is 
 a list of the imperial lyceums ; Lycee Louis le Grand, 123, 
 rue St. Jacques; 42 professors, comprising four lecturers on 
 the Arabic, Turkish, and Persian languages; 370 boarders, 
 and 500 day-scholars. — Lycee Napoleon, rue Clovis; 18 pro- 
 fessors, 550 boarders. — Lycee St. Louis, 42, Boulevard St. 
 Michel ; 50 professors, 400 boarders, and 400 day-scholars. 
 — Lycee Charlemagne, 120, rue St. Antoine; 4o professors, 
 800 day-pupils. — Lycee Bonaparte 65, rue Caumartin; 33 
 professors, 1,100 day-pupils. — Lijcde du Prince Imperial, at 
 Vanves (elementary), 18 professors, 500 pupils (1). 
 
 Of the private establishments of a similar nature, the follow- 
 ing are the most considerable ; College Stanislas, 22, rue 
 Notre Dame des Champs; 30 professors, and 200 boarders. 
 College Ste. Barbe, place du Pantheon, which, including an 
 establishment dependent from it at Fontenay aux Roses, has 
 100 professors and 1,000 boarders and day-scholars. The Col- 
 lege des Irlandais, 5, rue des Irlandais, is an endowed 
 Catholic institution for young Irish priests, (seep. 424.) 
 
 SPECIAL SCHOOLS. — There are various special schools 
 founded in Paris, mostly by Government, and therefore called 
 Ecoles du Gouvernement ; of these we subjoin a list, 
 fr. ; censeurs, 5 ,ooo fr. (both having lodging and firing besides) ; 
 professors, 1 st class, 4,500 fr. ; 2 nd, 4,000 fr.; 3 rd, 3,500 fr. 
 Deputy-professors, 1 st class, i,800fr.; 2d, i,200fr. Tothese fixed 
 salaries must be added the eventuel, consisting of a portion of 
 the clear profits of the lyceums of Paris and Versailles taken 
 collectively and divided among the functionaries. The minimum 
 of the eventuel guaranteed by the state is 800 fr., but in Paris it 
 has now been fixed at 3,000 fr. 
 
 ( 1 ) Besiides the government schools, there are also many pri- 
 vate establishments of the kind. Last year, there were in France 
 825 private sehools of secondary instruction under laymen, and 
 
 7 
 
98 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 ficoLE Polytechnique, rue Descartes, Montague Ste. Gene- 
 vieve. — A decree of the National Convention, dated March 11, 
 
 1794, created an Ecole Centrale, which, by a decree of Sept. 1, 
 
 1795, took the name of Ecole Polytechnique. It was com- 
 pletely rc-organised in 1852. The object of this justly-cele- 
 brated institution is to form pupils for the artillery, the staff, 
 engineering, the marine service, bridges and highways, min- 
 ing, telegraphs, and other departments. Pupils are admitted 
 from the age of 16 to 20. Soldiers having served two years 
 are admitted until the age of 2 5. They must be French by 
 birth, or naturalized, and free from physical defects. Every 
 year candidates for admission undergo a strict examination 
 in Paris and the departments. The terms are 1,000 fr. a-year, 
 exclusive of books and equipments. The affairs of the school 
 are under the superintendence of a council and an adminis- 
 trator. The period allowed for study is two years. The 
 number of pupils is 200, with 20 professors. Strangers are 
 not admitted without permission from the Minister of War (l). 
 It possesses a library of 20,000 volumes (see p. 410). 
 
 Ecole ImpEriale des Ponts et Chaussees, 28 , rue des 
 Saints Peres. — This school, placed under the authority of the 
 Minister of Public Works, consists of about 100 pupils, taken 
 from the Ecole Polytechnique, who receive instruction in what- 
 ever concerns the different branches of civil engineering. Fo- 
 reigners are allowed to follow the lectures, on receiving an author- 
 isation from the Minister of Public Works, which must be ap- 
 plied for by the respective ambassador. It has 15 professors. 
 
 Ecole d"Etat-Major, 138, rue de Grenelle. — Pupils for the 
 staff service are received here, selected by competition from 
 among the sub-lieutenants of the army and the pupils of the 
 Polytechnic School, and the Military School of St. Cyr. 
 After 2 years’ study they may be appointed to lieutenancies 
 of the staff, after which they are drafted into the I’egi- 
 ments of the line. There are 7 5 pupils and 15 professors. 
 
 Ecole des Mines, 30, rue d’Enfer. — This establishment, 
 erected in 1783, is under the control of the Minister of Public 
 
 256 conducted by members of the clergy, besides i23 ecclesi- 
 astical seminaries. There are nine monastic bodies possessing 
 35 establishments of secondary insiruclion ; of these the Jesuits 
 have 1 1 and the Maristes is. The total number of pupils in the 
 secondary and preparatory ecclesiastical schools is 55,1 55 ; that 
 of the pupils in the Lyceums is about 34,300. Besides these 
 means of instruction, 75 1 courses of gratuitous lectures to adults 
 have been organized throughout France* 
 
 (1) The fullest information on this remarkable institution will 
 be found in the ofiicial publication called “ Programme des 
 Etudes.” 
 
SPECIAL SCHOOLS* 99 
 
 Works, and intended for the study of mineralogy, geology, 
 mining, &cc., for which purpose it possesses a considerable 
 collection of minerals, and a scientific library. At its 
 head is a Conseil des Mines, composed of 8 inspectors, 
 which directs all affairs relating to mining operations. Gra- 
 tuitous lectures are given in geology and mineralogy during 
 six mouths, commencing Nov. 15. There are ; l.thee7d(;es 
 ingenieurs, taken from the Polytechnic School ; 2 . foreign 
 pupils, admitted by competition as day-scholars. The library 
 is public from 10 to 3, holidays excepted. 
 
 ficOLE DES Chartes, at the Palais des Archives, rue du 
 Chaume. — This institution was founded by Louis XVIIl., for 
 encouraging the study of the ancient manuscripts contained in 
 the different libraries, and the depots of the archives of the 
 kingdom. Three professors and four assistant-professors give 
 lectures daily on palseography, and the art of decyphering do- 
 cuments. The number of pupils is unlimited ; to be admitted the 
 candidate must have the degree of bachelor, and undergo an 
 examination; his age must not be under 18, nor exceed 25, 
 The establishment is open daily from 1 o to 4 ; it possesses an 
 elegant lecture-room for loo pupils, and a small library with 
 desks, where students are at liberty to study between lectures. 
 The students who distinguish themselves receive 600 francs 
 annually, from the Minister of Public Instruction, until they 
 obtain places as professors of the school, assistants of the 
 Academic des Inscriptions, or librarians. 
 
 Ecole des Langues Orientales Vivantes, at the Biblio- 
 theque Imperiale, No, 8, rueNeuve des Petits Champs. — Here 
 9 professors lecture publicly and gratuitously on the following 
 languages; — Pure and Vulgar Arabic, Persian, Turkish, Arme- 
 nian, Modern Greek and Greek pala;ography, Hindoostanee and 
 its dialects. Vulgar Chinese, Malay, and Javanese. 
 
 Ecole des Beaux Arts, 14, rue Bonaparte. — This school, 
 which is under the control of the Minister of the Interior, 
 is divided into 3 sections, painting, sculpture, and archi- 
 tecture, Lectures are given gratuitously by 8 professors. 
 Annual prizes are distributed ; the first prizes entitle the 
 successful candidate to study at Rome at the expense of the 
 State (see p. 365). 
 
 Ecole Imperiale Gratuite de Dessin, de MatiiEmatique, 
 et de Sculpture d’Ornement, 5, rue del’Ecole de Medecine. 
 For the instruction of artisans in drawing and architecture, 
 geometry, arithmetic, mensuration, timber-cutting, 8cc. 
 
 Ecole Imperiale, Sp^ciale, et Gratuite de Dessin, 7, 
 rue de Dupuytren. — Young women here learn figure, land- 
 scape, flowers, &c., for manual professions. 
 
100 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 Ecole Centrale des Arts et Manufactures, 1„ rue des 
 Coutures St. Gervais, founded in 1828, and established on the 
 plan of the old Ecole Polytechnique, for young men intending 
 to become civil engineers, directors of manufactories, builders, 
 &c. It does not admit pupils under 1 6 ; candidates must pas^ 
 an examination in arithmetic, algebra, geometry, and mathe- 
 matical drawing. The terms are 800 fr. per annum. 
 
 Ecole SupErieure du Commerce, 24, rue St. Pierre Popin- 
 court. — Founded in 1820 by the late Casimir Perier, and by 
 Messrs. Chaptal, Ternaux, and Laffitte. The pupils here re- 
 ceive a practical commercial education, at an expense for board 
 and tuition varying between 1,200 and 1,400 fr. a-year. 
 
 Ecole de la Chambre du Commerce. — A somewhat si- 
 milar establishment to the proceeding one, opened in 1863 
 in the Avenue Trudaine under the superintendence of the 
 Chamber of Commerce. The number of pupils is 400, chiefly 
 children of the working classes, who here receive a business 
 education at a low charge. The studies comprise modern 
 languages, mathematics, natural philosophy, drawing, natural 
 history, and geography. In the evening there are lectures for 
 adults. The building comprises four class-rooms, three amphi- 
 theatres for lectures, a gallery of natural history, and a library. 
 
 Conservatoire DE Musique et de Declamation Lvrique, 
 15, faubourg Poissonniere. — Founded for the gratuitous 
 instruction of young persons of both sexes in singing, music, 
 and declamation. There are 10 bourses of 1,000 fr. founded 
 by the City and the Government for as many boarders. Out- 
 door pupils are admitted after passing an examination, and 
 must have attained the age of 1 o for the piano or other in- 
 struments, of 15 for declamation, and of 16 for singing. 
 Theirnumberis 600 ; a musical library, of 8,000 volumes, public 
 from 10 to 3, is attached to this establishment ( see p. 231.) 
 
 Colleges Municipaux. — There are three of these establish- 
 ments, belonging to the City of Paris ; the College Rollin, 
 42, rue des Postes, which affords the instruction necessary 
 for the University ; the College Chaptal, 29, rue Blanche, 
 intended for conunercial education, and in which French 
 and foreign languages, history, geography, mathematics and 
 the natural sciences, chemistry, mechanics, the study of un- 
 wrought materials, technology, surveying, perspective, and 
 singing, form the subjects of instruction ; and lastly, the Col- 
 lege Turgot, 17, Rue du Vertbois, opposite tbe Synagogue, 
 affording a somewhat inferior degree of instruction. The 
 College Chaptal alone admits boarders at 1,000 fr. a-year, 
 everything included. Out-door pupils pay 200 fr., or 150 fr., 
 if only the higher branches be required. 
 
SPECIAL SCHOOLS. 101 
 
 Institutions, Pensions.— These establishments are equi- 
 valent to academies and hoarding-schools in England, but are 
 under the control of Government. In Paris there are 30 in- 
 stitutions or preparatory schools for the lyceums, and 240 
 pensions. The number of mfflwtfons for young ladies is about 
 200, and of pensions 150. There are many more such esta- 
 blishments in the rest of the department of the Seine, besides 
 smaller schools, which in Paris and its vicinity amount to 
 more than 500. (See Directory.) 
 
 ficoLES Primaires SupErieures de la Ville de Paris. — 
 The name of these schools indicates their object. They form 
 the fourth class under the direction of the Imperial Council of 
 Public Instruction. There are two for boys, and one for girls. 
 
 Adult Schools. — There are in Paris 80 schools or classes 
 for adults, containing 14,000 pupils. The pupils receive 
 gratuitous instruction in reading, writing, arithmetic, gram- 
 mar, drawing, geometry, vocal music. See., every evening 
 from 8 till 10, so as not to interfere with their avocations. 
 
 OuvROiRS. — These are useful establishments kept up by the 
 administration of hospitals for furnishing work to young girls ; 
 there are 1 or more in each arrondissement ; their total number 
 is 30, and the children frequenting them are 1,600. Their 
 cost, including the adult schools, is 632,125 fr. per annum. 
 
 The City has provided 522 Ecoles Primaires for boys and 
 girls; there are besides about 60 for the former, conducted 
 by the Freres des Ecoles Chretiennes, (see p. 113) ; and as 
 many for the latter, under the guidance of the Soeurs de St. 
 Vincent de Paule. The total number ofpupils is about 200,000. 
 The expense of all the ficoles Primaires to the municipality is 
 about 5,200,000 fr. (I) annually. Children are admitted from 
 the age of 6 to that of 1 5 . Elementary singing is taught in all 
 these schools. The salaries of the masters are 1,800 fr.; the 
 mistresses 1,500 fr. per annum; besides a house, or 300 fr. 
 for rent. Their salaries are increased every 5 years by 
 200 fr., till the total increase amounts to 600 fr. If they 
 hold an evening class for adults, they are paid in addition 
 1 0 fr. annually per pupil (2). 
 
 Ecoles SpEciales de Dessin.— Of these schools there are 
 7 for males, and 2 for females, maintained by the City of Paris. 
 
 (1) Under the Restoration it was only 70 ,odo fr. 
 
 (2) The City has provided a school for children of the Jewish 
 persuasion in the Marche des Blancs Manteaux. The total num- 
 ber of children frequenting the primary schools of Paris in I8G6 
 was 55,000. The Ecoles Primaires forali France, according to the 
 last returns, were 6.5,71 c>, comprising 32,506 schools for boy^ 
 under the direction of laymen, with 904,358 pupils, and iGjOP4 
 
103 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 Salles d’Asile, or Infant Schools. — There are 84 such 
 establishments; they receive during the day about 15,000 
 children of both sexes. Their annual expense is about 200,000 
 francs. Infants arc received till their sixth year (1). The Salles 
 d’Asile are under the protection of the Empress, who awards 
 medals to the directresses that distinguish themselves by their 
 exertions in the execution of their duties. Her Majesty also 
 presides over a central Committee of Patronage, of 27 members, 
 mostly ladies of rank, appointed for the propagation of those 
 institutions. The same illustrious lady is also, in virtue of a 
 decree of Nov. 1855, protectress of 
 
 The Maison ImpEriale de St. Denis and its branch estab- 
 lishments, now collectively known as the Maisons Im- 
 periales Napoleon, devoted to the instruction of the daugh- 
 ters, sisters, and nieces of members of the Legion of Ho- 
 nour. Thisinstitution was originally established by Napoleon I. 
 in the ChMeau of ficouen, under the superintendence of 
 Madame Campan, and has been rendered illustrious by the 
 peculiar favour of the Emperor, who often visited it ; by 
 the Letters and the enlightened cares of its excellent gover- 
 ness; and by the numbers of accomplished women who have 
 received their education within its walls. Since 1815 it has 
 been fixed in the vast buildings of the confiscated Abbey of St. 
 Denis, and according to the latest regulations, is thus constituted. 
 The Grand Chancellor of the Legion presents the Lady Super- 
 intendent of the establishment to the Emperdr for appoint- 
 ment, and names tlie other ladies by his own authority. 
 All pupils are nominated by the Grand Chancellor. The esta- 
 blishment consists of a lady superintendent, an inspectress, 
 3 directresses, a treasurer, G ladies dignitaries ; 1 2 ladies 
 of the 1st class, 33 ladies of the 2nd class, 20 novices, be- 
 sides candidates for the noviciate, and 500 pupils, of whom 
 400 are taught gratuitously, the remainder at the expense of 
 their families, the superintendent, dignitaries, and governing 
 members of the institution wear a decoration consisting of 
 a four-branched enamelled cross, and retiring pensions are al- 
 lowed them. Ahighly finished education is given to the pupils ; 
 and the young ladies who are brought up here receive all the 
 
 conducted by lay-women, with 618,508 pupils; i7,206 do. kept 
 by the clergy, viz., 2,502 for boys, with 443,732 pupils; and 
 14,704 for girls, with 1,1 66, 942 pupils. The sums paid by 
 families for primary schooling amounted to 1 8,578,728 fr., and the 
 voles of councils-general for the schools amounted to 4,231,608 fr. 
 
 (i) The most authentic accounts of the institutions for public 
 instruction in France are to be found in the “ Almanach de I’Uni- 
 vetsitd,” and In the “ Reports” of the prefect ofthe department. 
 
MAISON DE ST. DEMS. 
 
 103 
 
 advantages that can result from a well-matured system of col- 
 legiate instruction, aided by eminent professors of the fine arts 
 and music. 3 almoners and a large medical staff are attached 
 to the service of the establishment. The rules of the house are 
 exceedingly strict, without being severe ; all the members of 
 it wear the same uniform, black dresses, black bonnets and 
 gloves, with aprons and collars; all dine together, and are 
 subjected to almost military discipline. Frequent examinations 
 take place, and prizes are awarded according to merit. Per- 
 mission to visit the establishment is granted by the Grand 
 Chancellor on a written application. 
 
 Two succursal houses, belonging to this institution, are esta- 
 blished, one at Ecouen, with 200 pupils, the second with 300 
 pupils, at the Maison des Loges, at St. Germain. They are 
 superintended by the Congregation de la Mere de Dieu, an order 
 of nuns. The number of gratuitous admissions in these three 
 establishments is 800, but boarders may be admitted at 900 fr. 
 a year. None but daughters of officers not below the rank of 
 captain are admitted at St. Denis ; at the branch establish 
 ments even the daughters of privates are admitted. Pro- 
 testants are excluded. All tbe dignitaries and teachers have 
 been brought up in the establishment. 
 
 Ecoles d’Equitation. — T he best are at 12, rue Duphot, and 
 4 2, rue d’Enghien 
 
 Gymnase, 55, Avenue Montaigne, Champs Ely sees. — At this 
 institution, conducted by M. Triat, instruction is given to 
 pupils of both sexes in gymnastic exercises. It is very well 
 attended, and the public are admitted at 4 and 8 p.m. 
 
 PUBLIC MUSEUMS. — Besides the Louvre, containing the 
 richest and most important collections of ancient and modern 
 art, there are several other Museums of art, numismatics, 
 natural history, etc. ; for these see Index under Musee, 
 Galerie, and Cabinet. 
 
 PRIVATE MUSEUMS. — The following private collections 
 are visible bj* application in writing ; — Ancient and Modern 
 Art: Marquis of Hertford, 1, rue Taitbout ; Count d’Espagnac, 
 27, rue de Clichy ; M. Lacaze, 118, rue du Cherche Midi. 
 (Sundays, from io to 1.)— Paintings by Living Masters: 
 Baron J. Rothschild, 17, Rue Laffitte; Mine. Paturle, 21, rue 
 du Paradis-Poissonniere. (In winter only), M. A Moreau, 
 3, rue St. Georges. — Antiquities and Curiosities : M. D’Yvon, 
 20, rue de la Chaise. — Numismatics : M. Rollin, 12, rue 
 Vivienne (from 1 2 to 5). — Herbaries ' — M . Adrien de Jussieu, 
 at the Garden of Plant 
 
 The following are only accessible upon proper introduction : 
 Paintings Baro.j James Rothschild, 19, rue Laffitte ; M. De 
 
104 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 Rothschild, 40, rue Taitbout; Marquis of Hertford, 2, rue Laf- 
 fitte ; Marquis Maison, 24, rue Neuve des Capucines ; M. 
 Dagnan, 35, rue St. George’s (Swiss scenery.) 
 
 PUBLIC LIBRARIES.— This city possesses many valuable 
 libraries, for which, see Index, under the head Bibliotheques. 
 
 PRIVATE LIBRARIES. — There are several attached to the 
 different public offices and institutions ; but cannot be visited 
 without a permission granted for some special object. Thus 
 every ministry has one relating to its peculiar department ; the 
 Cour de Cassation has one of 30,000 volumes ; the Depot de 
 la Marine comprises 25,000; the Home Office has one of 
 22,000 ; and the Ecole Poly technique, the Ecole des Fonts 
 et Chaussees, the Seminaire St. Sulpice, and the Observatoire, 
 have each their particular one of about 20,000 volumes. 
 
 PERIODICAL EXHIBITIONS.— Of these the most important 
 are — the periodical Exhibitions of National Industry, which, 
 are held in the Palais de V Industrie (see p. 183), the annual 
 Exhibition of the works of Living Artists (see p. 183,) (1) and 
 the annual Horticultural Exhibitions, (seep. 105). 
 
 LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC SOCIETIES.— The names of 
 most of these denote their object. In the following list those 
 marked with an asterisk publish periodicals, or apply funds 
 towards the advancement of human knowledge. 
 
 SociETE FRANgAiSED’ARCHEOLOGiE, 44, RueBoiiaparte, — Founded 
 in 1 805 ; devotes itself to the history and antiquities of the Gauls 
 and French down to the leth century ; 60 resident members, and 
 numerous correspondents. Meets on 9th, i9th, and 29 th of each 
 month. 
 
 SociETE DE l’Histoire DE FRANCE.* — Meets on ) st Monday of every 
 month, at the Archives lmp6riales. It publishes original 
 documents on the History of France, previous to 1789. 
 
 SociETE Litteraire POLONAISE, 6, quai d’Orl^ans. — Founded 
 in 1833, under the auspices of the late Prince Adam Czarto- 
 ryski. It meets once a week, and possesses a library of5o,ooo 
 volumes, which is public (see p. 3i9.) 
 
 INSTITUT HiSTORiQUE,* 12, r.ue St. Guillaume. — Holds an annual 
 conference, wherein matters of history are- discussed and prizes 
 are awarded. Public and gratuitous lectures. 
 
 iNSTiTUT d’Afrique, 22, Place Venddrne. — Founded in 1838, to 
 promote the civilisation and colonisation of Africa. 
 
 SociETE de G^ographie,* 3, rue Christine. — Founded ini 821. 
 Annual subscription; 36 fr. This society possesses a library, 
 containing valuable geographical collections, and many curious 
 objects presented to it by travellers. 
 
 (1) The first exhibition of the kind'occurred in 1699 ; that of 
 1 855 was the 78th. There were 2 under Louis XIV., 24 under 
 
LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC SOCIETIES. 105 
 
 Society des Gens de Lettres/ 14, Cit6 Tr^vise.— To secure 
 rights of literary and scientific authorship ; meets every Monday. 
 
 SociETE DES Bibliophiles, Hotel de Lauzun, i7, quai d’Anjou. 
 
 - Prints very scarce or inedited works. 
 
 Athenee des Arts, Sciences, Belles Lettres, et Industrie, 
 H&tel de Ville. — Founded in 1 792. Atthe annual public meetings in 
 May, prizes are adjudged for useful inventions and improvements. 
 The ’ordinary sittings on Mondays ; literary and musical soirees 
 every three months. 
 
 SociETE DES Enfants d’Apollon, 8, rue Neuve Brdda —Holds an 
 annual meeting, devoted to music and poetry. 
 
 SociETE DU Caveau.— This socicty was founded in 1737 by Piron, 
 Cr^billon junior, and Colld, and met at that period in a tavern 
 called Caveau, in the Carrefour de Bussy. Duclos, Bernard, Mon- 
 crif, Helv6tius, and Rameau, were successively members of it. 
 The members meet twice a-month to cultivate lyrical poetry, and 
 on the first Friday of every month at 248, rue St. Honors, for the 
 pleasures of the table. 
 
 COMITTE Central des Artistes, for the promotion of the fine arts 
 and affording assistance to poor artists, meets at the H6tel de Ville 
 on the 1 st and 3d Friday of every month. 
 
 SociETE DES Amis des Arts.*— Its object is to encourage the fine 
 arts by purchasing original paintings, statues, drawings, migrav- 
 ings, &c., by living artists of the French school. The objects of 
 art purchased during the year are exhibited at the Louvre, and 
 distributed among the shareholders by means of a lottery. Such 
 shareholders as do not gain prizes are entitled to a proof engrav- 
 ing. Eighty proofs before letters are drawn of every engraving 
 and distributed by lottery among the shareholders. 
 
 SociETE Libre des Beaux-Arts.— Meets at the Hotel de Ville on 
 1 st and 3d Tuesday of the month. Public sitting in May. 
 
 SociETE DES Amis des Sciences, 44, rue de Bonaparte. Founded 
 in 18 56 , by the late Baron Th^nard, for the relief of the widows 
 and orphans of men of science. It already possesses a capital 
 of i3o,ooofr. 
 
 SociETE Philotechntque, 21 , Rue de Valois, Palais Royal. 
 Holds public half-yearly meetings, at which papers are read, 
 music performed, and pictures, designs, or sculpture exhibited. 
 
 SociETE Entomologique, at the Hotel de Ville. — Meets on 2 d and 
 4th Wednesday of every month. 
 
 SociETE Philomatique,* 8, me d’Anjou Dauphine. — Next to the 
 Institute, the most scientific body in Paris; 60 members. 
 
 SociETE Geologique DE FRANCE, 39, me de Fleurus. It meets 
 on the 1 st and 3d Monday of every month. It has a good library. 
 In the same house is the 
 
 SociETE Meteorologiquede France. • 
 
 SociETE IMPERIALE ET CeNTRALE D’AGRICULTURE, SOflETE BOTA- 
 NIQUE, and SociETE Imperiale et Centrale d’Horticulture, 84, 
 rue de Grenelle St. Germain.— These three societies, which are 
 under the protection of the Emperor, occupy the same premises. 
 They possess a valuable library of 8,ooo volumes, and annualljr 
 Pj’gTpisQ flower pnd agricultural strops iq the rhapaps ^lygepsi, 
 
106 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 Societf; Impi5rule Zcologique d’Accumatation, 10 , rue dc 
 Lille.— For the introduction of useful breeds of animals into 
 France.— Founded in iS54. It was founded by the late Isidore 
 Geoffroy St. Hilaire, and counts upwards of i,ooo members. 
 Public sitting in May, at the Hole! ue Vilie (See p, 493 .) 
 
 SOCIETE POUR L’ENCOURAGEMENT DE L’INDUSTRIE NATIONALE,* 44 
 rue Bonaparte.— This society has erected at its OAvn cost the build- 
 ing it now occupies. Since 1801, it has expended 500,000 fr. in prizes. 
 It has a collection of models to whicli visitors are admitted on apply- 
 ing to the director between 10 and 4. The President is M. 
 Dumas. 
 
 Academie Nationale Agricole, MANUFACTURifeRE et Commer- 
 CIALE,* 21, rue Louis le Grand. — Meets at the Hotel de Vilie 
 oh the 3d Wednesday of every month ; awards prizes and me- 
 dals. In the same house is the 
 
 SOCIETE DE STATISTIQUE UNIVERSELLE. 
 
 SociETE DU Magnetisme, Rue St. Honore, 123, Place d’Aligre.— 
 Holds a gratuitous public silling on 1st Thursday of cacli month, 
 at which experiments in animal magnetism are performed. 
 
 Besides these there are numerous other societies in the ca- 
 pital, full information respecting the objects and constitution 
 of which may be obtained at the addresses annexed to them. 
 The following are the principal : — Societe des Instituteurs et 
 Institutrices, at the'Hdtcl de Vilie.-— Socfefe^sm/zgne, 7, Rue 
 Vivienne. It publishes the Journal Asiatique.— Societe 
 pour I' Instruction Elementaire, 7, Rue Vivienne. — Societe 
 des Architectes, 7, Rue Vivienne. — Academie des Arts et 
 Metiers, at the Hotel de Vilie. — Societe Academique Indus- 
 trielle et Artistique, 8, rue de Valois. 
 
 Treemasons. — This is the only secret society in France not 
 forbidden by law. It is administered by the Grand Orient of 
 France, which has its offices and holds its sittings at No. 16, 
 rue Cadet. It has upwards of five hundred ateliers under 
 its authority in France, the French Colonies, and foreign 
 parts. General or sectional meetings take place once a-month. 
 Visiting brethren having the degree of Master are admitted to 
 them. The private meetings of the Rit Ecossais are held on 
 Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 7 p.ip,., at 3.5, rue de 
 Crenelle St. Honore. Freemasons are admitted on presenting 
 their diplomas. Grand Master, General Mellinet. 
 
 COMMERCIAL ESTABLISHMENTS.— The Chamber of Com- 
 merce consists of the prefect of the department and 2 1 bankers 
 or merchants, 5 of whom are elected annually by tbe patented 
 merchants of Paris, who have carried on business in it for one 
 year at least. They communicate with the government upon 
 commercial affairs, superintend buildings connected with trade, 
 attend to the execution of the laws against smuggling, &c. 
 They meet at No. 2, Place de la Bourse, every Wednesday . 
 
COMMERCIAL ESTABLISHMENTS. l07 
 
 The Exchange is open daily from 12 till 3 for the sale of 
 public securities, and till 5 for other transactions. Sixty 
 agents de change, sixty courtiers de commerce, and eight 
 courtiers d’assurance, named by the government, are alone 
 authorised to transact public business here. The sale of 
 Stock, railroad shares, hills of exchange, &c., belongs exclu- 
 sively to the agents de change, but bills are allowed by tole- 
 rance to be negotiated by brokers. The courtiers de commerce 
 certify the price of gold and silver, fix the price of merchandize, 
 rates of freight, &c. The courtiers d’assurance fix the rates of 
 insurances, &c. The legal price of public effects and goods is 
 fixed daily at the close of Change by the agents de change and 
 courtiers, and registered by the Commissaire ( see p. 21^). 
 
 Bank of France, rue de la Vrilliere. — This institution was 
 formed in 1803, by a law which gave it the exclusive privilege 
 of issuing notes payable to the bearer at sight, until 1807. Its 
 charter was renewed in 1857, extending its duration to Dec. 
 31st, 1897. Since 1848, it has branches in all the depart- 
 ments. It also has a branch-bank at Algiers. It is directed 
 by a governor, 2 deputy governors, 15 regents, 3 censors, and 
 a council, composed of twelve members, which superintends 
 the discounts. Tlie governor presides over the council of re- 
 gency, and every year a general council, composed of 200 of 
 the largest shareholders, audits the accounts. The operations 
 of the Bank consist in discounting bills of exchange or to order, 
 at dates not exceeding three months, stamped and gua- 
 ranteed by at least three signatures of merchants or others of 
 undoubted credit , in advancing money on government bills, 
 at fixed dates ; on bullion or foreign gold, silver coin, and 
 public securities ; in keeping an account for voluntary deposits 
 of every kind, government securities national and foreign, 
 shares, contracts, bonds of every kind, bills of exchange, 
 other bills, and all engagements to order or to bearer, gold 
 and silver bars, national and foreign coin, and diamonds, with 
 a charge for keeping, according to the value of the deposit ; 
 and length of time (l); in undertaking to recover the pay- 
 ment of liills for individuals and public establishments having 
 accounts current with the Bank, and in making payments for 
 them to the amount of the sums entrusted. Open from 9 to 4 
 daily, excejit Sundays and festivals, for the exchange of hills 
 against specie and for discounting. To be admitted to dis- 
 count, and to have a running account at the bank, a request 
 must be made in writing to the governor, accompanied by the 
 
 (<) It takes charge of packages from abroad of gold and silver, 
 on payment of i fr. 5oc., for any length of time, but without 
 answering for them. 
 
108 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 certificate of three well-known persons. The usufruct of bank 
 shares may he ceded, but the fee-simple may still be disposed 
 of. The shares may be immobilisees, that is, converted into 
 real property, by a declaration of the proprietor. The capital 
 of the Bank, which at first consisted of 45 millions of francs 
 IS now represented by 182,000 shares of l,ooo fr. each’ 
 exclusive of the reserve fund. The interest on the original 
 price of these shares, which varies commonly from 12 to 15 
 per cent., can never be under 6 per cent. The lowest rate of 
 discount since 1852 has been 3 per cent., and the highest 9. 
 The notes of the Bank in circulation, which are of 5,ooo fr.* 
 1,000 fr., 500 fr., 200 fr., lOO fr., and 50 fr., represent 800 
 millions of fr. ; the specie and bullion in reserve amount to 
 about 400 millions of fr. The accounts are made up and sub- 
 governor every evening, and a balance-sheet is 
 published once a month ( 1 ). This establishment comprises a 
 printing-office for its private use (see p. 230). 
 
 Caisse d’Amortissement, et Caisse des Depots et Consi- 
 gnations, 56, rue de Lille.— These two establishments, both 
 under the control of the Government, are administered by a 
 committee, composed of the governor of the Bank of France 
 the president of the Chamber of Commerce, a director of 
 the Ministry of Finance, and four members appointed by 
 the Emperor from among the members of the Senate, the 
 Council of State, the Legislative Body, and the Cour des 
 Comptes. The Caisse d’Amortissement conducts all operations 
 r^ative^ to the reduction of the public debt of the country. 
 The Caisse des Depots et Consignations, which is open from 
 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., receives all moneys deposited in it in con- 
 sequence of legal awards, and other public proceedings,' or by 
 any public functionaries, for which it allows interest at the 
 rate of 4 14 per ctnt. per annum after the money has been 
 deposited lo days. No interest is paid for less than 30 days 
 and 10 days’ notice must be given in order to withdraw 
 the capital. Private individuals may also deposit money here 
 on the same terms. During the legislative session the president 
 
 (i) The following tabular statement shows the amount of busi - 
 ness transacted by the Bank of France for the last five years : — 
 
 Year 
 
 Central Bank 
 
 DepartnientalBanks 
 
 1860 
 
 2,408,710.840 fr. 
 
 3,931,856,314 fr. 
 
 1861 
 
 2,744,784,523 „ 
 
 3,8l 1,911.500 ,, 
 
 1862 
 
 3,618,327,257 „ 
 
 4,165,472,540 „ 
 
 1863 
 
 3,347,462,896 ,, 
 
 4, 194, -81 3,200 „ 
 
 1864 
 
 3,481,399,489 ,, 
 
 4,427j928j090 
 
 Bills Discounted 
 By Central Bank 
 
 077,855 fr, 
 2,136,305,921 ,, 
 2,278,792,782 ,, 
 2,455,160,200 ,, 
 2,982,713^689 , 
 
CAISSE D’AMORTISSEMENT. 109 
 
 of the commission makes a report, which is published, (i) 
 Connected with the foregoing establishment, are the Dotation 
 de l’Arm4e (see p. 63n), and the 
 
 Caisse des Retraites pour la Vieillesse, instituted by a 
 law of June 18, 1850, Its capital consists of voluntary con- 
 tributions of 5 fr. at least by persons of any age from three 
 years upwards. Foreigners enjoying civil rights are admitted! 
 to contribute. Every contribution bears 4 % per cent, com- 
 pound interest. The capital contributed is reimbursed in 
 toto at the contributor’s death to his heirs, provided he has 
 notified his intention to that effect at the time of his first pay- 
 ment. At the age of 50 and upwards, the contributor may, 
 two years after the first payment, claim an annuity, not 
 exceeding l,500 fr. Every contributor receives a livret, where 
 his accounts with the establishment are registered. The Caisse 
 des Retraites is conducted by a permanent committee, of 
 which the Minister of Agriculture and Commerce is president. 
 All the sums it receives are employed in buying rentes. (2) 
 
 CoMPTOiR National d’Escompte, rue Bergere, 14. — This 
 establishment, created by the Provisional Government in 1848, 
 to meet the commercial crisis of that period, has been found! 
 so useful, that its charter has been prolonged to 1887. It is. 
 under the management of a director, an assistant director. ai 
 Board of 1 5 administrators, and three censors. There is also* 
 a Conseil d’Escompte, composed of tradesmen named by the 
 Board. Capital, 40,000,000 francs. The operations of the 
 Comptoir d’Escompte, which, since 1854, is under the 
 authority of the Minister of Finance, consist : 1. in dis- 
 counting bills with two signatures and falling due within loo 
 days, provided they be upon Paris or towns possessing a branch 
 of the Bank of France ; 2 . in discounting bills upon other towns 
 of the departments or foreign parts, bearing two signatures and 
 falling due within 65 days; 3. in opening accounts to private 
 persons depositing their capital, which bears 2 per cent, inte- 
 rest. It also discounts receipts of goods deposited in the ge- 
 neral warehouses of the State, in accordance with the decree 
 of March 21, 1848. (3) The present rate of discount is 4 per- 
 
 (1) The following is the account of the Caisse for 1866 : Re- 
 ceipts, 1,656,172,098 fr. ; payments, 1,233,247,067 fr. ; in hand', 
 Dec. 3lst, 422,925,031 fr. 
 
 ( 2 ) The receipts of the Caisse des Retraites amounted in 4S86 io 
 10,388,611 fr. ; the disbursements to 883,868 fr., leaning a 
 balance in hand. Dec. 3ist, of 9,504,743 fr. The retraites- of all 
 the functionaries of the State are now become a separate source 
 of revenue, to provide for a Civil Service Superannuation Fund. 
 
 (3) The scarcity of money was so great at that lime, that the 
 Provisional Government had recourse to the expedient of open- 
 
110 GENERAL INFORMATION, 
 
 cent. There are also in Paris five Sous-Comptom de Ga^ 
 rantie, for as many particular trades, connected with this esta- 
 blishment. They have been opened by joint-stock companies, 
 for the purpose of endorsing commercial bills for discount at 
 the Comptoir d’Escompte. The capital of each sous-Coinpioir 
 is 100,000 fr. at the least, and is deposited at the Comptoir 
 d’Escompte in guarantee of payment. (1) 
 
 Credit Foncier de France, 19, rue Neuve des Capucines. — 
 A joint-stock company, authorised in 1 852, for the purpose of 
 investing money upon mortgage throughout France on the fol- 
 lowing principles,. viz. ; — The property to be unshackled by 
 previous mortgages ; the loan not to exceed one-half of the 
 real value ; maximum interest 5 per cent. ; the mortgage ex- 
 tinguishable by an annual payment of from 1 to 2 per cent. 
 Another annual charge to cover the ordinary expenses of the 
 company, which may issue bonds of 100 fr. and upwards, 
 payable to bearer or otherwise, up to the amount of the loans 
 effected, bearing interest, and to be withdrawn from circula- 
 tion in the same proportion as the loans are reimbursed. If 
 a mortgager fail to pay his annuity, his property is liable to 
 sequestration and sale by public auction. The company is 
 under the authority of the Minister of Finance, aud cannot 
 turn its capital to other purposes. It is bound to extend its 
 loans to the amount of 200 millions of francs, the State con- 
 tributing 10 millions thereto. Its Board of Directors consists 
 of a governor and two sub-governors named by the Emperor, 
 and 15 members, including three receivers-general of the 
 taxes. It has 26 bi’anch establishments in the departments. (2) 
 
 SocietE GenErale DU Credit Mobilier, 15, Place Ven- 
 dome, authorised in 1852. This company buys up public 
 bonds, shares, or scrip in railway undertakings, canals, mines, 
 &c. ; issues its own bonds to the amount employed in such 
 purchases ; sells, raises money upon, or exchanges the bonds, 
 shares, &c., in its possession; makes tenders for public loans; 
 lends on public bonds, shares, 8cc. ; opens running accounts 
 on such deposits ; calls in moneys for other companies, pays 
 their dividends, &c. It never engages in time bargains or in 
 
 ing the warehouses of the State to tradesmen, that they might 
 there deposit their goods, which they had no prospect of selling 
 at the time. Receipts were given, upon which they raised money 
 by loan at the Comptoir d’Escompte. This system still continues. 
 
 (1) During the year ending June 30, 18S6, Ihe Comptoir d’Es- 
 compte Aiscounled 892,469 bills, to the amount of 605,030,270 fr. 
 The central Comploir delivered 680 receipts for deposited goods, 
 to the amount of 75,832,057 fr. Dividend; 8 fr. 40 c. per cent. 
 
 ( 2 ) The number of loans contracted with this Company up to 
 Jan. 1st, 1866 was 7,694, and amounted to 464,338,668 fr. 
 
CREDIT MOBILIER. HI 
 
 optionial ones. Capital, 60 millions of francs, in 1 20,000 shares 
 of 500) francs each. Its board consists of a president, two vice- 
 presidlents, and 15 members, elected by the shareholders (i.) 
 
 REILIGION. — The present constitution confirms “the great 
 principles proclaimed in 17 89,” among which are liberty of 
 conscience and admission to public employments and dignities 
 withoiut distinction of creed. But the open exercise of any 
 form tof worship is not free in France. For meetings of more 
 than '20 persons even for religious purposes, the permission 
 of thee local authorities is necessary. The Catfiolic, the Re- 
 formerd, or Calvinist, and the Lutheran churches, and since 
 1830, the .Jewish worship, are recognized and supported by 
 the staate ; they are at the same lime placed under the control 
 of the government. The Catholic religion, as that of the im- 
 perial family and of the great mass of the population, may be 
 said t(o be the religion of the state. Its chief festivals are 
 observ/ed as public holidays ; when public prayers are ordered, 
 the auithorities are presumed to be catholic, and attend the 
 catholiic ceremony. Yet no procession or ceremony is allowed 
 outsidle the walls of a catholic church in towns where there 
 are chmrches for a different worship, and marriage is made a 
 civil contract ; no religious celebration of marriage can take 
 place mntil the civil contract has been entered into before the 
 mayon-, nor can the registers of baptisms, marriages and bu- 
 rials, Ikept by the church, be received as evidence in lieu of 
 the likce registers kept by the mayor. 
 
 CATrnoLic Church. — The concordat concluded with the 
 Pope Iby Napoleon Bonaparte in 1801, on restoring Christian 
 worshiipiu France, still regulates the government of the church 
 and itts intercourse with the state. Its leading object is to 
 place Ithe church entirely in the hands of the state. The go- 
 vernmient nominates to archbishoprics and bishoprics; the 
 Pope then confers the canonical institution. The bishops 
 appoimt the priests, subject to the approbation of Govern- 
 ment. No communication from the Papal Court — no doc- 
 trinal decision or formulary can be published or taught — no 
 counciil held — no change in discipline introduced without 
 the sainction of Government, Finally, all differences within 
 the chiurch or between its ministers and other persons arising 
 out of the exercise of their functions, must be referred to the 
 Counciil of State. Paris is the seat of an archbishopric, 
 whose diocese extends over the department of the Seine. 
 The Blishops of Meaux, Versailles, Chartres, Orleans, and 
 
 (l) TTlie following was the financial situation of this Company on 
 Jan. Istt, 1866 : — Assets, 2 13, 39 5,5 35 fr.; liabilities, 199 , 195,814 fr.; 
 dividemd, 25 per cent. 
 
Ii2 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 Blois, are the suffragan bishops of the Archbishop of Paris, 
 
 The secular catholic clergy of Paris amount to the number of 
 1,000 persons, most of them engaged in parochial duties. 
 
 Each of the arrondissements has its church and cure, with 
 egiises succur sales, or chapels of ease, forming in all 66 
 parishes. We would however particularly recommend to 
 the attention of strangers the Madeleine, Notre Dam* de 
 Lorette, St. Vincent de Paule, the Cathedral of Notre Dame, 
 Eglise St. Genevieve, St. Etienne du Mont, St. Germain 
 VAuxerrois, St. Eustache, St. Gervais, and St. Sulpice.— 
 Churches or chapels not parochial, but deserving of particular 
 attention, are the Eglise des Invalides, Chapelle Expiatoire, 
 Chapelle de St. Ferdinand. (See Index.) English sermons 
 are preached every Sunday at St. Roch, and at the Chapel | 
 St. Nicholas, 193, Faubourg St. Honore. 
 
 Convents. — There are above 30 such establishments in Paris, 
 principally of nuns, who devote themselves to the education 
 of young ladies, the relief of the sick, and other useful pur- 
 suits. Among the principal we may mention ; the Dames 
 du Sacre Cceur, 77, rue de Varennes ; the Dames de St. 
 Michel, 193, rue St. Jacques; the Dames de St. Thomas de 
 Villeneuve, 27 , rue de Sevres ; the Dames Augustines Anglaises, 
 at Neuilly, Avenue du Prince Eugene ; the Dames Carmelites, 
 
 5, rue de Messine ; the convent of Capuchins in the rue Sta- 
 nislas, established in 1852 ; and the Congregation des Sxurs 
 de St. Vincent de Paule, or sisters of charity, 140, rue du Bac. 
 
 The latter, about 800 in number, attend the sick in the hos- 
 pitals, in private houses when required, and to the superin 
 tendence of schools for the poor. But ministers of any esta- 
 blished creed are admitted into the hospitals. 
 
 Seminaries. — The education of the secular clergy in France 
 is conducted exclusively in seminaries apart from their lay 
 fellow countrymen. Boys enter the. petits seminaires at 12, 
 and leave at 18, being then considered to have concluded 
 their rhetoric, and to be ready to enter on their course of phi- 
 losophy in the higher diocesan college or grand seminaire. 
 
 The Seminaire de St. Sulpice, in the Place of that name, is 
 the grand seminaire for the diocese of Paris. It has a supe- 
 rior, a director, 13 professors, and 160 students in theology, 
 with a branch establishment at Issy for the study of philoso- 
 phy, where there are 50 students. 
 
 Seminaire de St. Nicolas du Char donnet. — Forms two di- 
 visions ; one established at the ancient seminary, 18 bis, rue 
 de Pontoise, and the other, called Petit Seminaire, at 2 1 , rue 
 Notre Dame des Champs. The. two houses contain 300 pupils. 
 
 Seminaire des Missions EtrangMes, 128, rue du Bac. — 
 
ROMAN CATHOLIC CHtJRCH. 113 
 
 Mi^ioilai'ies are instructed here in the Asiatic languages, and 
 in whatever may fit them for the missions in the East. 
 
 S4minaire du St. Esprit, 30, rue des Postes. — The pupils 
 are destined for missions to the French colonies. 
 
 Institut des Freres des Ecoles Chretiennes, 27, rueGudinot. 
 ‘—It has a noviciate for the teachers of the Ecoles Chretiennes. 
 There are in Paris 1 o establishments and 80 classes. 
 
 Caisse Diocesaine. — This fund is destined to afford pensions 
 to aged or infirm priests, and to grant allowances to young 
 men destitute of fortune who devote themselves to the ecclesias- 
 tical state, to enable them to prosecute their studies. 
 
 Protestant Churches. — The Reformed and Lutheran 
 Churches owe their legal establishment and support from the 
 state to the law promulgated by the First Consul in 1802, 
 which, with some changes introduced by a decree of the Pre- 
 sident of the Republic in 1852, continues in force to the pre- 
 sent time. Like the Catholic Church, they are both under the 
 control of the state. The appointment and removal of pastors 
 must be confirmed by the government. To the Council of 
 State belongs the decision of all questions arising out of 
 acts done in the exercise of their functions, whilst with regard 
 to the assembly representing the whole community, the mem- 
 bers ai-e either chosen by the government or their delibera- 
 tions confined to matters authorized by the law, and permis- 
 sion is necessary to the publication of their resolutions. 
 
 Reformed or Calvinist. — The government of this church 
 is entrusted to boards of presbyters, local consistories, and to 
 a central council. A board of presbyters elected by the whole 
 congregation of each church, and presided over by the pastor, 
 administers its affairs under the authority of the consistory. 
 There is a consistory for every 6,000 persons, who form a 
 consistorial district, but the board of presbyters of the church 
 at the chief town of the district is (with the addition of the 
 pastor and a lay member from the other churches), itself the 
 consistory, and hence this is called the consistorial church. A 
 consistory often embraces several churches within its juris- 
 diction. It generally represents a large church together with 
 the smaller ones in its vicinity. The duties of consistories 
 are of a purely local character ; they manage the funds of the 
 churches under their care and vote subscriptions for increasing 
 the stipends of pastors, for repairs, 8cc. They appoint the 
 pastors on the presentation of the board of presbyters of tbe 
 church in question. Above the consistories stood the synods, 
 composed of delegates from five consistories, and assembling 
 in presence of the prefect of the department, for inquiring into 
 all matters connected with the faith and government of the 
 
 8 
 
114 GE^ERAL INFORMATION, 
 
 church, but on account of some practical difficulties they 
 have fallen into disuse. The general synod is omitted 
 altogether in the law of 1 802. To supply the want of a body 
 representing the whole of the reformed church, a central 
 council of 1 5 persons, chosen from the principal members of 
 the community has been created. The council acts for the 
 reformed churches in all its dealings with the government ; and 
 takes cognizance of all questions of general interest with which 
 it may be entrusted, either by the government or by churches. 
 The reformed church has a faculty at Montauban, and is com- 
 posed of lO.T consistories, 1045 places^ of worship, and 1139 
 schools. Its churches in Paris are; I Ovatoire, 157, rue St. 
 Honore; la Visitation de Ste. Marie, 216, rue St. Antoine; 
 le Pentemont, 106, rue de Grenelle St. Germain; a chapel at 
 38, Boulevard des Batignolles, at 38, Rue Madame, and the 
 Eglise de la Trinite, 5 Rue Roquepine. The pastors are 
 seven. The eloquent M. Athanase Coquerel is of the number. 
 
 Lutheran.— The Lutheran Church has the same boai'ds of 
 presbyters and local consistories as the Reformed Church. 
 Over these a Directory of 5 persons, 3 of whoin are chosen 
 by the government and 2 by the superior consistory, admi- 
 nister the affairs of the church generally ; they have the 
 appointment of the pastors. This body appoints also the pro- 
 fessors of the seminary and college belonging to the Lutheran 
 community, and overlooks the teaching and discipline at 
 these establishments. On their presentation the govenimenl 
 appoints ecclesiastical inspectors, whose duty it is to visit the 
 churches and see to their good order. The Superior Consis- 
 tory is formed, 1st, of two delegates from each inspection. 
 (There is an inspection for every five consistoi’ial churches, 
 the members of the inspection being the pastor and an elder 
 of each church.) 2d, of the ecclesiastipl inspectors ; 3d, of 
 a professor of the seminary ; 4th, of the president of the 
 directory, and a lay member chosen by the government. The 
 consistory is called together once a year, to hear the report of 
 the directory on the affairs of the church. The consistory has 
 also within its province the maintenance of the constitution 
 and discipline of the church, the issue of regulations for the 
 internal government of the church, the approval of books and 
 formularies for use in worship or teaching. The superior con- 
 sistory sits at Strasburg, but is represented in its communica- 
 tions with the government by the consistory of Paris. The 
 Lutheran Church has a seminary and college at Strasburg, 44 
 consistories, 403 places of worship, and 609 schools. In Paris 
 its churches are ; La Redemption, 5, rue Chauchat ; les Cannes 
 Dillettes, 16, rue dcsBillettes (sermons in French and German 
 
iPROTESTANt CHCRCHES. H5 
 
 and a chapel, 147, rue du Temple. These churches hare to- 
 gether 5 pastors. Schools with chapels annexed are at 74, rue 
 St. Maur, faubourg du Temple, and at 19 , rue Neiive Ste. 
 Genevieve. — The following are not paid by the state : — 
 Church of England. — The clergy of this church is composed 
 of the chaplain to the embassy, and 3 ministers. The episcopal 
 chapels are : 5, rue d’Aguesseau, Faubourg St. Ilonore ; the 
 Marboeuf Chapel, 10 his, Avenue Marbeeuf, Champs Elys’ees ; 
 and 17, rue do la Madeleine. — Presl)ylerian service (Church of 
 
 I Scotland), at the Chapel of the Oratoire, 1 60, rue de Rivoli. 
 
 ; Congregational Chapel, 23, rue Royale St. Ilonore. —IFes/ej/an 
 ' Church, 4, rue Rociuepine ; Boulevard Malesherbes. — Swiss 
 ^Church, 357, rue St. Honore.— The Protestant American 
 [ Chapel, 21, rue de Berry, is open to 'Evangelical Chris- 
 tians of all nafidns and denominations.— Amerma/i Epis- 
 copal Church, Rue Bayard. For [lours of divine service, 
 see Stranger's Diary, in every Saturday’s Galignarfi’s 
 Messenger. . C l . i ^ 
 
 The Free Churchy or Union des I^gTises Evan^eligues, 
 holds the same doctrines as those of the Reformed Church. 
 To preserve its independence it refuses the support of the 
 state. The church is active in spreading Protestantism and in 
 providing new places of worship ; in doing which it has met 
 with the opposition of the civil authorities, under the provi- 
 sions of Art. 291 of the Penal Code. The pastors are ap- 
 pointed by the consistories. Synods are held at intervals, in 
 which the members, lay and clerical, discuss the affairs of 
 the church and decide on admitting new churches into the 
 union. The Chapelles Emngeliques Reformees, at 54 , rue 
 de Provence, 180, rue du Faubourg St. Honore, and 29,’ rue 
 Chabrol, belong to this community. 
 
 Protestant Schools. — There are several communal and other 
 schools of various Protestant persuasions in Paris. The prin- 
 cipal are at 38, rue Madame; au Peutemont, rue de Grenelle 
 ^t. Germain; 39,rue des Ecuriesd’Artois ; 95, ruede Reuilly; 
 and 6, passage Colbert. As regards the wealthier classes’ 
 Youths receive a Protestant education, when desired, at all the 
 lyceesand colleges ; and for young ladies, the Protestant com- 
 tnunity have provided a series of educational lectures by emi- 
 nent professors, under the title of Cours Gradues pour les jeunes 
 denwt elles Protestantes, at 19 bis, rue de laChaussee d’Antiu. 
 
 English Free Schools, for boys and girls, 1 19, rue du Fau- 
 bourg St. Honore.— Under the patronage of the British Am- 
 bassador, and the management of a "committee of English 
 clergymen and residents. The children of the English working- 
 classes here receive a moral and religious training, and the ele- 
 
116 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 meats of useful knowledge. About 150 children arc under the 
 care of three teachers, at an annual expense of 10,000 fr., 
 obtained from the voluntary contributions of English and Ame- 
 rican visitors. Connected with these schools is an Asylum for 
 destitute English and American orphans. Open daily, Thurs- 
 days excepted, from 9 till 4. Contributions received by 
 Messrs, de Rothschild, Callaghan, and Galignani. 
 
 Societe Biblique Protestants de Paris, 5, rue des Beaux 
 Arts. — The object is to spread the Holy Scriptures, without note 
 or commentary, in the versions received and used in Protes-tant 
 churches. It holds an annual public meeting. 
 
 Societe pour r Instruction primaire parmi les Protestants 
 de France, 3, ruede I’Oratoire St. Honore, instituted in 1830. 
 
 Societe des Missions EvangMiques chez les peuples non 
 Chretiens, formed in 1832, at Passy, 21, rue Franklin. 
 
 Societe des Traites religieux, 47, ruedeClichy. 
 
 Societe Evangelique de France, 47, rue de Clichy. 
 
 Societe Biblique frangaise et etrangere, 54, rue de Clichy, 
 
 This last society and the Societe EvangMique de France, 
 are connected with the Free Church. The Societe Evange- 
 lique maintains catechists, ministers, and schoolmasters, in 
 different parts of France. It assists the free churches which 
 are not yet able to maintain themselves, and communicates, 
 through delegates, with the government. 
 
 Greek Church. — Rue dela Croix (see p. 204). 
 
 Armenian Persuasion. — Seminaire des Moines Armeniens 
 Meketairistes de St. Lazare de Venise, 12, rue Monsieur. 
 
 Jewish Persuasion. — The ministers of this creed are paid 
 by the State. A central Consistory, headed by the Grand 
 Rabbi of Paris, exercises jurisdiction over the other Consistories 
 throughout France in matters relating to religion. There are 
 two synagogues in Paris, one at 15, rue Notre Dame de Na • 
 zareth (German rite), and another at 23, rue Lamartine (Por- 
 tuguese rite). (1) A central Rabbinical school is established 
 at Metz, for aspirants to the priesthood. (2) 
 
 (1) Two more are to be built by the Jewish community and 
 the City, at a cost of 4, 000,000 fr., in the rue de la Yictoire and 
 Place Royale. 
 
 ( 2 ) The total number of Catholic clergy in France is about 
 124,000, comprising 6 cardinals, 15 archbishops, 69 bishops, 155' 
 vicars-general, 660 canons, 3,396 cum, and 39,630 priests of 
 iglises succursales, 20 chaplains for the ten cemeteries of Paris, 
 30,000 seminarists, and 5o,ooo monks or nuns. The arch- 
 bishop of Paris has 5o,Ooo fr., the others 20,000 fr. each, and 
 bishops 15,000 fr. The 6 bishops or archbishops who are car- 
 dinals, receive 10,000 fr. besides. Moreover, 23 bishops, residing* 
 n large and expensive centres of population, receive an addition 
 
PROTESTANT SOCIETIES. 117 
 
 CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.— Hospitals.— Numerous es- 
 tablishments existed in Paris at a very early period ; but the 
 object of their founders was greatly perverted, and their re- 
 venues directed to other purposes. From the time of Philip 
 Augustus to the revolution of 17 89, nothing could exceed the 
 maladministration, wretchedness, and consequent mortality, 
 which prevailed in these abodes of human suffering. In 1786, 
 owing to the deplorable state of the Hotel Dieu, the construc- 
 tion of four new hospitals was ordained ; hut the profligacy 
 of the minister Calonne, the low state of the finances, and the 
 events which preceded the revolution, caused several millions of 
 r the hospital fund to he dissipated. By a decree of the Convention, 
 July, 16, 1793, part of the patients of the hospitals of Paris 
 j were transferred into convents or other structures which had 
 become national property. By subsequent decrees the super- 
 intendence of the hospitals was vested in sixteen members of 
 the National Convention, two new hospitals were establish- 
 ed, and the number of beds in those already existing consi- 
 
 of 72,000 fr. amongst them. The indemnities allowed for diocesan 
 ! visits, &c., amount to 173,500 fr. a-year. The total expense of the 
 87 sees is estimated at 1,652,500 fr. per annum. The salaries of 
 : vicars-general and canons vary from 2,500 to 4,500 fr. ; those of 
 curds from 1,200 to 2,4oo fr. Since 18 O 2 , a sum of 55 , 000 fr. 
 is allowed for pensions to retired curds. The number of 
 convents for nuns of different orders is about 3 , 000 , and the 
 number of nuns about 24,000 ; there are also in France convents 
 of Trappists, Carthusians, Capuchins, and Benedictines, besides 
 the priests of St. Sulpice and 2,000 Jesuits. The total cost of the 
 catholic clergy in France is estimated at 47 , 000,000 fr. — Of the mi- 
 nisters of other persuasions there are 579 Calvinists, of whom 90 
 are presidents of Consistories ; 26 3 Lutherans, of whom 6 are in- 
 i specters, and 3i presidents of Consistories. The salaries of pro- 
 ' testant ministers vary from i ,600 to 3,000 fr., according to the 
 j number of parishioners. The protestant seminaries are besides 
 I endowed with 30 purses of 400 fr. each, and 60 half purses of 
 I 200 fr. The Church of England has at least 40 ministers in 
 1 France. During the last four years 6t new Protestant churches 
 : were inaugurated in France. The expense of the Protestant 
 worship amounts to 1,542,036 fr. The Jewish creed counts 65 Rab- 
 bins and 62 officiating ministers : the expenses amount to 
 208,500 fr. There are 86 ministers of other denominations. The 
 number of Roman Catholics in France is 35,93i,032 ; Calvinists, 
 480,507 ; Lutherans, 267,825; Jews, 73,975 ; and other creeds, 
 30,000. In 1789 the total number of ecclesiastics was 114 , 000 , 
 including 1 9,000 regular clergy, and 32,000 nuns. Their revenues 
 amounted to 72 millions of francs, and the tithe to 70 millions, 
 giving a total of 142 millions. The sum expended for Roman 
 Catholic missions is 3,880,ooofr. a-year, and the receipts, from 
 subscriptions and other sources, 3,570,000 fr. 
 
118 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 derably augmented. By a decree of Jan. lo, 1849, every- 
 thing relating to public charity has been placed under the 
 Administration Generate de I’Assistance Publique d Paris. 
 it is under the control of the Minister of the Interior, and is 
 managed by a director and a Conseil de Surveillance of 20 
 members, presided by the prefects of the Seine and of Police. 
 The medical treatment administered in the hospitals of Paris, 
 and other particulars, will he found amply described under 
 the head of Medical Institutions (see p. 130.) (1) 
 
 Hospices. — Under this name are understood in France 
 certain establishments not unlike English alms-houses. The 
 following description will fully explain their peculiar nature. 
 
 Hospice des Menages, at Issy (see p. 519) — Is appropriated 
 lo aged persons of both sexes, married or widowed, who have 
 resided in Paris, or the department of the Seine, for two years, 
 and contains 428 rooms for married couples, 4 54 for widowers 
 and widows, and 430 for unmarried people. The best cham- 
 bers are reserved for couples of from CO to 70, who can give 
 3,200 fr. for admission ; the remainder are for couples entirely 
 destitute of resources, one of whom must be 70 and the other 
 at least 00 years of age. The chambers for widows and wi- 
 dowers are granted to those who are 60 years old at least, 
 have been married 20 years, and can pay 1,600 Ir. on ad- 
 mission. Each inmate is required lo bring a bedstead, two 
 mattresses, a bolster, two blankets, two pair of sheets, two 
 chairs, and a chest of drawers. Each receives a pound and a 
 half of bread per clay, and half a pound of raw meat per 
 day ; the sum of 3 fr. every ten days ; and 2 steres of wood 
 and two voies of charcoal a-year. The new buildings, which 
 are well worth a visit, have cost 4,44 6,665 fr. ; they com- 
 prise a laundry, wash-house, baths, a vast court laid out as 
 a garden with three avenues of lime trees, and six other courts ; 
 refectories, a reading-room, and a library. The present libra- 
 rian, M. Estienne, descends in a direct line from the cele- 
 brated printers of that name. Physician, Dr. Potain. 
 
 Institution de Sainte Perine, 4, Place Ste. Genevieve, 
 at Auteuil (see p. 189). — This was removed hither fi’om 
 the Abbaye de Sainte Perine at Chaillot, suppressed in 
 1790, and now demolished. This asylum was founded 
 in 1806 by M. Duchaila, for persons of both sexes 
 over 60 years of age, of small income. The Empress 
 Josephine was a great benefactress to it. The number is 
 limitel to 2 10, and the vacancies by removal or death average 
 
 (D Last year, the hospitals of Paris received legacies and 
 donations lo the amount of i90,o64 fr. in cash, rentes, goods, 
 and landed property. 
 
CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 119 
 
 50 annually. Admission is either on a specific payment, or 
 the annual sum of 950 fr. (1) There are several pavilions 
 and a chapel, situated in a heautifulpark. Each member has 
 a room and dressing-room to himself. The Sceurs de la Sa- 
 gesse have the care of the inmates. Physician, Dr, Besnier. 
 
 Maison do Retraite, or Hospice de La Rochefoucauld, route 
 d’Orleans, No. 15. — This house, now chiefly devoted to the 
 reception ’of oid servants of the hospitals, was originally es - 
 talilished for 12 soldiers, and 12 ecclesiastics. The present 
 buildings were erected in 1802 by Antoine. Persons who 
 are 60 and upwards pay 200 fr. a-year, and those that are 
 infirm, 250 fr. Infirm persons of small fortune, upwards 
 of 20 years of age, may treat for admission by paying down, 
 according to their age, &c., a sum which gradually rises 
 from 700 to 3,600 fr. The number of beds is 246. Dr. 
 Fournier and the Soeurs de Charite attend this institution. 
 
 Hospice Devillas, at Issy (see p. 519), founded in 1835 by 
 a Protestant of that name, for persons of either sex of the age , 
 of 70 or upwards. The number of inmates is 35; four-fifths, ac- 
 cording to the founder’s will, must he catholics. 
 
 Hospice Leprince, 187, rue St. Dominique, au GrosCaillou. 
 —This hospice was founded in 1819, in execution of the will 
 of M. Leprince, It contains 10 beds for old men, and 10 for 
 women. The Sceurs de Charite attend patients. 
 
 Hospice des Enfants Assistes, 74, rue d’Enfer, founded in 
 1640 by St. Vincent of Paule, for the reception of foundlings. 
 For a child to be received at this hospice a certificate of 
 its abandonment must he produced, signed by a commissary 
 of police. (2) The commissary is bound to admonish the 
 mother or party abandoning the child, and to procure for 
 them assistance from the hospital fund, in case of their con- 
 senting to retain and support the child themselves. Every 
 encouragement is given to those who relinquish the idea of 
 
 (1) Inquiries instituted by the Academy of Sciences establish 
 the singular fact, that the mortality of the inmates is greatest 
 during the first four years of abode; being the ist year in the 
 proportion of 24 to lOO, and in the 4th of 9 to lOO ; owing pro- 
 bably to the fatigue and disease in which they arrive, so that 
 they do not profit soon enough by the quiet life they lead. 
 
 (2) At Paris, anefin several parts of France, boxes called tours 
 are established, which revolve on a pivot, and, on a bell being 
 rung, are turned round by the persons inside to receive any 
 child that may have been deposited in it, without attempting to 
 ascertain the parents. The abolition of this humane cuslorn in 
 many departments has caused infanticide to become very fre- 
 quent in those parts, the average annual number of such cases 
 having risen from to4 to i96. As for indirect infanticide before 
 
120 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 abandoning their offspring, and consent to support them at 
 home. Of the children received in the hospital, those that are 
 healthy are put out to nurse in the country, those that are 
 sickly are retained at the hospital as long as requisite. Nurses 
 from the country, of good character, arrive daily at the hospital 
 in search of employment of this nature, and receive from 4 fr. 
 to 8 fr. a-month for each child, according to its age. They 
 are kept here a few days, and leave after their charges are 
 assigned to them ; care being taken to assign the children to 
 nurses living as far as possible from their birth-places. After 
 two years of age, the nurse may give the child up, when, if no 
 other nurse can be found for it, it is transferred to the orphan 
 department. The number of deaths is about 18 percent. The 
 number of beds in this hospital is 600 . The number of chidren 
 placed out at nurse in the country is about 3,400. The total 
 expense of this institution is on an average 3,000,000 fr. 
 per annum. The physician is Dr. Labric; surgeon. Dr. 
 
 • Depaul. The internal arrangements of this hospital are 
 admirable. The children are first placed in a general 
 reception-room, called La Creche, where they are visited 
 in the morning by the physicians, and assigned to the dif- 
 ferent infirmaries. These are four in number ; for medical 
 cases; for surgical cases; for measles; and for ophthalmic 
 cases. In each of these rooms, as well as in the Creche, 
 cradles are placed round the walls in rows, and several nurses 
 are constantly employed in attending to them. An inclined 
 bed is placed in front of the fire, on which the children who 
 require it are laid, and chairs are ranged in a warm corner, in 
 
 birth, the number has doubled in most departments ; in the 
 Charente, Basses Alpes, &c., it has trebled, and risen to four 
 and five times its amount in the Hdrault, Morbihan, Orne, and 
 Maine et Loire. The number of foundling-hospitals was 236 in 
 1832 : at present only 152 remain in all France. Agricultural 
 colonies for foundlings and orphans have since been established 
 in several departments; they are at present i7 in number. The 
 yearly average number of foundlings maintained at the Paris 
 hospital, calculated upon the last 18 years, is 4400. It was 6154 
 in 1854. The Administration of Public Assistance has lately 
 done much towards the education of foundlings. At the 
 age of 4 2, the boys are bound apprentice to «ome trade, at the 
 expense of the Administration, which has, also, by contracts 
 with certain private schools, provided a kind of penal establish- 
 ments for refractory individuals at Montagny (Sadne et Loire), 
 Varaignes (Dordogne), and other places. The director of a work- 
 ing asylum at Vaugirard likewise receives about 20 young girls 
 whose conduct is open to reproach. A portion of 1 48 fr. is award - 
 pd by the administration to female foundlings when they marry, 
 provided their conduct has been unexceptionable throughout, 
 
CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 12 1 
 
 which children of sufficient age and strength sit part of the 
 day. Every thing is admirably conducted. 
 
 The Hospice des Orphelins, founded in 1669 for girls, but, 
 in 1809, opened to boys also, forms but a section of the pre- 
 ceding one. Children whose parents are dead, or whose parents 
 certify that they have not the means of supporting them, are 
 received from the ages of 2 to 12, by order of the Prefect of 
 Police. Poor persons falling ill, and being obliged to go to an 
 hospital, may send their children until they are themselves 
 cured and able to return to their occupations. Persons con- 
 demned to imprisonment have the same facility. They are 
 all educated in reading, writing, and arithmetic, and are placed 
 out in trades, when the period of their residence is expired, 
 which is at the age of 2 1 . Children under 1 5 falling ill in 
 this hospice are transferred to the Hdpital des Enfants 
 Malades, if older they are sent to other hospitals. 
 
 Both this and the preceding establishment are under the 
 superintendence of the Soeurs de St. Vincent de Paule, or 
 Sceurs de Charite. Friends or strangers admitted on Mondays 
 and Tuesdays from 12 to 4 (seep. 417.) 
 
 Hospice des Incurables (Hommes), at Ivry (left Bank), was 
 founded in 1 653 by St. Vincent of Paule. The number of beds 
 is 497. About 30 of the oldmen work for their own benefit. 
 It formerly contained children, but these are now sent to 
 Arras, where, if their health admits of it, they learn trades. 
 Physician, Dr. Desnos ; Soeurs de Charite attend. The in- 
 mates may receive visitors daily from 1 to 3. 
 
 Hospice des Incurables (Femmes), 42, rue de Sevres. — In 
 this institution there are 636 beds for women, 70 for children, 
 and 15 apartments or rooms for the persons employed. Vi- 
 sitors are admitted on Tuesdays at 4 p.m. The physician is 
 Dr. Empis, the Soeurs de Charite attend (see p. 346). 
 
 Hospice des Quinze-Vingts, 28, rue de Charenton, for the re- 
 ception of adult blind persons. The number of families living 
 here is 3 00; the blind are received with their families, and 
 encouraged to marry, if single. In a few instances both 
 husband and wife are blind. None are admitted but those 
 both blind and indigent, and such are received here from any 
 part of France. Each blind person, if unmarried, receives 
 474 fr. 50 c. a-year, including l^lb. of bread daily ; if mar- 
 ried 584 fr., and for every child of his, 54 fr.more; they are 
 lodged gratuitously. The children are sent to a primary 
 school; and an asylum is instituted for them in the hospital, 
 where boys and girls remain till 14. Their apprentice fees are 
 paid by the establishment. Those children that are blind are 
 sent to the Institution Imperiale des Jeunes Aveugles (see 
 
122 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 p. 335). There arc besides 1,200 out-door pensioners attached 
 to it, divided into three classes, who receive respectively 
 100 fr., 150 fr., and 200 fr. per ann. Physician, Dr. Deiaffore. 
 Admission daily from 12 to 3 (see p. 283.) 
 
 infirmerie de Marie Thcrese, 116, rue d’Enfer . — This hos- 
 pice, founded by the Viscountess de Chateaubdaiid, in 1819, 
 derives its name from the Duchess d’Angouleme, who became 
 its patroness. The persons received here are sick ecclesiastics, 
 natives or foreigners. The house contains 50 beds, but the 
 inmates having moved in respectable society, the furniture, 
 linen, food, 8cc., arc of superior quality. Physician, M. 
 Charpentier. The Sa;urs de St. Vincent de Paule attend. 
 The infirmary is supported by voluntary contributions, and is 
 under the control of the Archbishop of Paris. 
 
 Maison Eugene Napoleon, near the Place du Trone, founded 
 in 1856 by the Empress Eugenie, for the education of young 
 workwomen. It contains at present about 100 pupils, all 
 maintained free of expense. Visitors are not admitted. 
 
 Orphelinat du Prince Imperial. — At the time the Prince 
 Imperial was born, a committee was spontaneously formed 
 for the purpose of collecting subscriptions for a magnificent 
 present to the Empress. Her Majesty, however, in accepting 
 the gift, declared her intention of applying it to a charitable 
 foundation. The Emperor increased the fund by an annual 
 contribution of 30,000 fr., and thus the Orphelinat was 
 created. Its object is to relieve poor orphans, and give 
 them a suitable education by placing them as boarders in 
 honest families, binding them apprentices to some trade, 8cc. 
 As the original subscribers chiefly belonged to the department 
 of the Seine, the orphans belonging to the latter are preferred. 
 The average sum paid for the board and lodging of an orphan 
 is 220 fr. The number of orphans admitted since the founda- 
 tion is 480 . The institution, which has already a fixed annual 
 income of 50,000 fr., receives every year numerous donations 
 from private persons ; it is conducted by a pennanent com- 
 mittee, of which the Minister of the Interior is president. 
 
 Societe du Prince Imperial pour les PrSls de VEnfance au 
 Travail. This society, founded by the Empress in 1862, 
 collects donations of ten centimes per week from children, 
 with a view to employ the capital thus raised in loans to ar- 
 tizans and labourei s of established honesty who may be in 
 want of funds to purchase tools, materials, seeds, 6cc. The 
 borrower must have lived at least a year in the same com- 
 mune, and no loan can be obtained for a longer period than 
 three years. The capital may be repaid by instalments, and 
 the small interest it bears (two and a-half per cent.) is 
 
CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 123 
 
 payable half-yearly. No loan can exceed 500fr. The first 
 funds proceeded from liberal donations made by all the digni- 
 taries and functionaries of the State as well as by private 
 individuals. Any person contributing at once a sura of 100 
 francs, and 10 francs annually besides, becomes a founder ; 
 those who contribute an annual sum only, are members. 
 Six hundred lady patronesses superintend the society, with the 
 co-operation of a supreme committee. The funds at the dis- 
 posal of the society amounted in I860 to 1,698,489 fr. Sums 
 lent, 1,239,281 fr. to 5,000 borrowers. 
 
 The English Hospital and Asylum for the Sick and Infrm 
 in Paris, No. 35, Boulevard Bineau, Neuilly. — This chari- 
 table establishment, founded by Messrs. A. and W. Galig- 
 nani, consists of two parts, one for women and the other for 
 men, and contains about five-and-twenty beds. The situa- 
 tion is elevated and airy, and all the modern improvements 
 for ventilation, light, water, etc., are introduced. The in- 
 stitution is attended by regular medical practitioners, and the 
 whole is placed under the management of one of the Sisters 
 of St. John’s House, London. 
 
 Maison Hospitaliere d’Enghien, 12 , rue Piepus, is a small 
 hospice called after the unfortunate duke whose name it bears. 
 It was founded by his mother, the Duchess de Bourbon, in 
 1819, and after her death was supported by Madame Ade- 
 laide. It contains 50 beds, 18 for women, 12 for old men, 
 residing there, and 20 for convalescents. The Soeurs de 
 St. Vincent de Paule attend (see p. 27 9). 
 
 Asile Ste. Anne, 44, Avenue duRoule, for 120 aged females, 
 22 of whom are maintained gratuitously on application by their 
 cures. The others pay a small annual sum. 
 
 Besides these, there are the Asile Lambrechts, at Courbevoie ; 
 the Hospice St. Michel, at St. Mande, for 12 septuagenarians ; 
 a Blind Asylum for girls at Vaugirard, conducted by the 
 Soeurs Aveugles de St. Paul ; and the Hospice de la Recon- 
 naissance, at Petit-Letang, in the commune of Garches, con- 
 taining 316 beds for workmen belonging to certain specified 
 trades, and being upwards of 60 years of age, (see p. 536.) 
 
 See also the Salpdtriere, or Hdpital de la Vieillesse ( p. 440) ; 
 the Institution des Jeuncs Aveugles (p. 335) ; and the Insti- 
 tution des Sourds Muets (p. 420). 
 
 Asile de la Providence, Chaussee des Martyrs, No. 13. — 
 Founded in 1804 byM. and ft adameMicault de la Vieuville. 
 It offers a retreat to old persons of 60 and upwards, at the cost 
 of 700 fr. per ann. The Societe de la Providence (see below) 
 contributes to its maintenance ; the Minister of the Interior 
 also pays 10,000 fr. per ann,, and has the grant of 16 gratui- 
 
124 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 tous places. A few of the pensioners pay only 600 fr. At 
 present the number of inmates is 72. The director is ap- 
 pointed by the Minister of the Interior. For the Imperial 
 A^iledu Vesinet, and that of Vincennes, seepp. 646, 685. 
 
 Charitable Societies. — Societe de la Providence. — It 
 gives out-door relief to poor families and blind persons, pro- 
 cures poor children a Christian education, besides teaching 
 them a trade, and contributes to the maintenance of the Asile 
 de la Providence by an annual payment of 6,000 fr. 
 
 Societe de la Morale Chretienne, 12 , rue St. Guillaume. — 
 Founded in 1821 by the Duke de Larochefoucauld Liancourt 
 tfor the protection of orphans during apprenticeship, the aid of 
 poor working people, the gratuitous defence of prisoners, and 
 The protection of liberated convicts, by procuring them work. 
 It exercises a strict superintendence over those it protects. 
 
 Societe de St. Francois de Regis. — Founded in 1826 and 
 ninder the direction of the Archbishop of Paris. It promotes 
 imarriage among poor people living in unlawful intercourse, 
 and contributes to the legitimizing of their offspring. 
 
 Societe Centrale d’Education et d' Assistance four les 
 Sourds-Muets en France. — Founded in I860 by the Deaf and 
 Dumb Institution of Paris. It procures the Deaf and Dumb 
 iinstruction ; binds them apprentice and aids them in their 
 •©Id age. Honorary presidents, the Prefect of the Seine and 
 •the Archbishop of Paris. There is also an Asile des Sourdes- 
 Muettes, 33, rue Neuve Ste. Genevieve, maintained by twelve 
 charitable ladies, under the direction of Mile. Vivier. 
 
 Societe Tutelaire et Paternelle des Orphelins. — Founded 
 an 1850, under the patronage of the Archbishop of Paris. It 
 affords protection to orphans, and sends them to the Colonies 
 Agricoles of France to learn agriculture. 
 
 SocietedeCharite Maternelle, 17 6, rue Montmartre. — Forty- 
 eight ladies compose the council of administration, and distribute 
 assistance in the different arrondissements, to aid poor women 
 in childbed, and encourage them to nurse their children, (l) 
 
 Societe Philanthropique, 12, rue du Grand Chantier. — 
 Founded in 1780, under the patronage of Louis XVI., for 
 'distributing food, advice and medicine, and assisting chari- 
 table establishments. They have 10 public kitchens, or four- 
 neaux (2), open 6 months of the year, to distribute cheap pro- 
 visions to the poor, to whom bons of the value of 2 sous are 
 
 (1) The Empress having, on her marriage, sent 100,000 francs 
 to this society, her Majesty is now perpetual president of all such 
 :Societies. The number of women relieved in iS 63 was 2, -867. 
 
 (2) Cheap kitchens, much on the same plan, have now bieen 
 established in various parts of Paris under the patronage of their 
 
CHARITABLE SOCIETIES. 125 
 
 gratuitously given, enabling them to get dishes of 3 soB» value 
 upon payment of 1 sou. Charitable persons may buy these 
 bons at 1 0 fr. a-hundred, for distribution to the needy. 
 
 Societe Protestante de Prevoya;nce et de Secours Mutmls, 
 48, rue I’Arbre Sec. Formed in 1825, to afford medkal 
 advice, medicine, and 2 fr. a^day to sick members, who pay 
 I a subscription of 24 fr. a-year. 
 
 ' Societe des Sauveteurs de la Seine. — It devises measures 
 I for saving persons in danger of drowning, and rescuing boats 
 on the Seine. Its meetings are held at the Hotel de Ville, 
 
 Societe protectrice des Animaux, 19, rue de Lille. — 
 Awards medals to such persons of the lower classes as have 
 displayed particular humanity towards animals. 
 
 British Charitable Fund. — This excellent institution was 
 formed in 1 822, under the patronage of the British Ambassador ^ 
 for the relief of distressed British subjects, who have not th& 
 means of returning to England. The funds, raised by voluntary 
 subscription, are managed by a committee, who meet on Mon- 
 days and Thursdays from 1 to 3, at 235, faubourg Saint- 
 Honore. Few persons of distinction or fortune visit Paris, 
 without contributing to the Fund. Subscriptions and dona- 
 tions are received by the Committee, by the British Consul, and 
 Messrs. Rothschild; Callaghan; Galignani. The number of per- 
 sons relieved in 1865 was 2139 ; of those sent to England, 179,. 
 
 Societe Allemande de Bienfaisance, Rue de I’Eveque, No.. 
 21, established in 1844. Its object is similar, with respect to. 
 Germans, to that of the British Charitable Fund. 
 
 Societe Helvetique. — Established in 1822, and composed of 
 Swiss, without distinction of religion, who relieve their coun- 
 trymen in distress. Office, 3, rue de I’Oratoire St. Honore. 
 
 Majesties; and 68 such kitchens havebeen opened by the Prefect 
 of the Seine, on a plan conceived by M. Klein, a retired judge,, 
 by which not only the poor are benefited, but even a small, 
 balance is realised, which may be applied to other charitable- 
 purposes. His plan is this : the purchase of an economical, 
 kitchen range, with its full complement, amounts to 2,500 fr. 
 The meat is bought at 85 cent, per kilo., so that a kettleful of 
 broth made with 100 kilo, of meat costs 89 fr., including salt', 
 and vegetables. Every kilo, of meat furnishes seven portions,, 
 so that the kettle yields Too portions of meat at 5 cent., plus 900* 
 portions of broth at the same price; total so fr. Here therefore* 
 there is a small loss of 9 fr., but on the other hand rice andl 
 pulse yield a balance in favour of the establishment ; so that 
 600 portions yield a gross profit of 5 fr. 13 c. The rent, salaries,, 
 firing, etc., cost 800 fr. for 6 months, or 4 fr. 45 c. per diem,, 
 leaving a net proflt of 68 c, per diem, besides the sale of bones,. 
 etc., making a total of 180 fr. for 6 months, or 7 per cent on the* 
 capital. These kitchens are only open in winter. 
 
126 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 Maison St> Casimir, 40, rue du Chevaleret, Ivry, — For 
 this interesting Polish institution see page 442. 
 
 Asile des Petits Orphelins, 1 19, Chaussee de Menilmontant. 
 — Founded in 1849 for orphans from cholera. 
 
 Societe des Amis de rE?ifance, 5, rue d’ Alger — Formed for 
 the protection and instruction of male children. 
 
 Societe des Amis de la Vieillesse . — At the Hotel de Ville. 
 
 Maison pour les Enfants Delaisses, 3 1 , rue Notre Dame 
 des Champs, for protecting deserted young girls, and such as 
 have lost their mothers. After receiving a moral education, 
 they are placed out as apprentices. The number of pupils is 1 0 o . 
 
 Institution St. Nicolas, 112, rue de Vaugirard, with a 
 branch establishment at Issy, for the reception of 1,500 male 
 orphans. It contains 25 workshops, where the children learn 
 various trades. Gardening and commerce are also taught. 
 The board is 300 fr., and 240 fr. only for destitute orphans. 
 
 Maison des Diaconesses, 95, rue de Reuilly, faubourg St. 
 Antoine. — This is an establishment of Protestant Sisters of 
 Charity, instituted in 1842, with a view to obtain Ihe care of 
 Protestant patients in the hospitals of Paris. The City grants 
 them a yearly subvention of 3000 francs. 
 
 Societe pour le Placement en Apprentissage des Orphelins. 
 — Subsidized by Government. Meets at the Hotel de Ville. 
 
 Association pour les Jeunes Orphelins . — Meets at the Hotel 
 de Ville. Besides these, we may mention the following ; So- 
 ciete de St. Vincent de Paule ; Societe philanthropique des 
 Classes Ouvrieres ; Asile des Vieillards Protestants; Orphe- 
 linat Evangelique ; Orphelinat Protestant; Societe de Pa- 
 tronage pour les Aveugles Travailleurs . 
 
 Etablissement des Filatures, rue des Tournelies, 35. It be- 
 longs to a society that gives work to about 3800 poor women, 
 who receive hemp and flax for spinning ; also to ICO weavers, 
 for whom frames and tools are procured gratuitously. 
 
 There arc also in Paris several associationf^ de travail pour 
 les pauvres (work-societies), directed by ladies of high rank, 
 who make articles, to be sold at public exhibitions or by 
 lottery for the benefit of the poor. Artists and benevolent 
 persons are invited to contribute their works, 6cc. Large 
 sums are thus raised and distributed to the poor by the 
 Mayors. In most of the parishes of Paris there are associa- 
 tions de bienfaisance for similar purposes. 
 
 Creches, or Nurseries, are benevolent instilutions under 
 the immediate protection of the Empress, where poor women, 
 working out of doors, deposit their babies in the morning, 
 return to suckle them at the proper hours, and take them home 
 in the evening. The creches, now 18 in number, are open 
 
CHARITABLE SOCIETIES. 127 
 
 from 8 a. m. to 8 in the evening. (1) The Government and 
 the City contribute about 7000 francs annually towards the 
 support of the Creches. Each mother pays 20 centimes per 
 day to the nurses. Medical and every other necessary attend- 
 ance is provided. The Creche St. Philippe, 182, faubourg St. 
 Honore, receives 60 children daily. Visitors are admitted. 
 
 Direction Generate des Nourrices, 18, rue Ste. Apolline, 
 This establishment, attached to the Central Administration 
 of Hospitals, procures respectable wet-nurses for families. The 
 City pays 31,000 fr. annually towards its support. 
 
 Bureaux de Bienfaisance et Secours a, Domicile. — In each 
 of the 20 arrondissemenls there is, under the superintendence 
 of the Prefect of the Seine and the General Commission of Pub- 
 lic Assistance, a bureau to afford relief, gratuitous advice, and 
 medicine to the aged, infirm, and indigent, at their own 
 homes. An infirmary is attached to each bureau. The relief 
 consists of bread, meat, firing, and clothing ; besides which 
 a monthly allowance of 3 fr. is given to those who are affected 
 with palsy in two limbs; 5 fr. to those who arc blind, and 
 those who are upwards of 7 5 years old ; and 8fr. to those who 
 arc turned 80. Each bureau consists of the mayor (who is pre- 
 sident ex-officio), the deputy-mayors, the rector of the parish, 
 curates, and protestant ministers ; 1 2 managers, chosen by 
 the Minisiter of the Interior ; and the commissaries for the poor, 
 and Dames do Cliarite. whose number is fixed by the bureau. (2 ) 
 Out-door medical relief is afforded to the indigent of every ar- 
 rondissement, by 159 medical men appointed for the purpose. 
 
 SociEtEs de Secod’rs Mutuels entre Ouvriers. — There 
 are 73 of these benefit societies, comprising about 14,000 mem- 
 bers, under the patronage of the municipality, and 281 others, 
 comprising 35,373 members. The most ancient, St. Anne, 
 dates from 1694. (3) Members of the liberal professions have 
 also similar societies called Associations de Privoyame. 
 
 (1) The Creches of the Seine last year received 2,300 children. 
 
 (2) The following is, in round numbers, a statement of the 
 poor annually relieved in Paris by the Bureaux de Bienfaisance, 
 at a cost of about 4,300,000 fr. Number of families, 43 , 000 ; 
 men, 23,000; women, 39 , 3 oo ; boys, 25,500; girls, 25,500. 
 Average total, tl 5 , 3 oo. The 5 lh, nth, isth, and lOth arron- 
 dissements contain the largest number of indigent persons. The 
 poor in all France are about 8 per cent, of the population. 
 
 (3) OnJan. 1st, 1807 , therewere 5 , 288 benefit societies through- 
 out all France, comprising 782,498 members. Their aggregate re- 
 serve-fund amounted to 40 , 000, 000 fr. At present t ,865 societies 
 have accounts open at the Came des Retrailes (seep. 109), to Hie 
 amount oif 7, 446 , 008 fr., to which must be added a subven- 
 tion of the slate amounting to 781,494 fr. 
 
128 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 Administration du MOnt de Pii£t^, 18, rue des Blaflcs 
 Manteaux, and 7 , rue du Paradis, au Marais. — This establish- 
 ment which, by a decree of March 1852, is under the autho- 
 rity of the Prefect of the Seine, and the , Minister of the Inte- 
 rior, is managed by a Director named by the latter, and a 
 Council presided over by the Prefect, and composed besides of 
 the Prefect of Police, 3 members of the Municipal Council, 3 
 of the Conseil de V Assistance Publique, and 3 citizens of 
 Paris, all named by the Minister of the Interior. The Mont 
 de Piete was created in 1777 for the benefit of the hospitals. 
 It enjoys the exclusive privilege of lending upon moveables, 
 four-fifths of the value of gold and silver articles, and two- 
 thirds of the value of other effects, provided no loan exceed 
 10,000 fr. at the central, or 500 fr. at the branch establish- 
 ments. The intere^ for money which it borrows varies ac- 
 cording to the times ; it is generally 4 per cent. ; the lowest 
 rate at which it has ever borrowed was 2'A per cent. The in- 
 terest to the public upon pledges used to be 12 per cent; it is 
 now reduced to 9, or % per cent, for 1 5 days, being the shortest 
 term on which it can be lent after the lapse of the first month, 
 the interest of which must be paid entire, even though the loan 
 last but a few days. The pledges of the day before are brought 
 every morning from the offices of the different commission- 
 naires to the warehouses of the central establishment, or to 
 its two succursales. A caisse d’d-compfes enables borrowers 
 to refund by instalments the sums advanced ; even 1 fr. is 
 received. Parties must be known and be house-holders, 
 or produce a passport or papers en regie, otherwise they 
 cannot pledge any article. About 3000 are pledged daily. 
 Loans are effected from 9 to 4, and articles are redeemed from 
 9 to 2. After a year, or rather 14 months, the effects, if the 
 duplicate be not renewed by paying the interest due upon it, 
 are liable to be sold by auction, and the surplus paid to the 
 borrower, on application within three years from the date of 
 the duplicate, after which time the surplus is given to the 
 Administration de V Assistance Publique. The Mont de Piete 
 has two principal branches in Paris : one in the rue Bonaparte, 
 and the other in the rue de la Roquette ; also 20 auxiliary 
 offices, where articles may be pledged at the same rate as at 
 the former. There are besides 19 commissionaires in different 
 quarters of the town to receive articles in pledge for the Mont 
 de Piete : they take an extra 2 per cent, for the first loan, 2 per 
 cent, more for every renewal, 1 per cent, on redeeming, or 1 
 per cent, more for cashing the surplus in case the pledge has 
 been sold, (1) All the appraisers are conjointly responsible for 
 ( 1 ) The yearly average of the operations of the Mont de Pi(5ld 
 
MONT DE PIETe. 129 
 
 the value set upon the articles. The Mont de Piete is insured 
 for 6 , 000,000 fr. ; the succursales for 2 , 000,000 fr. ( 1 ) 
 Savings Bank {Caisse d’Epargne et de Prevoxiance) 
 founded in 1818, has its central office at 9, rue Coq Heron ( 2 ) 
 and 19 branch offices at the Mairies, those of the 1st and 2d 
 arrondissements excepted, open on Sundays and Mondays, be- 
 sides 5 more in the neighbouring communes. The adminis- 
 tration is gratuitously conducted by a board of twenty-five 
 directors ; the salaries of clerks and other expenses of the 
 establishment are covered by 20,000 fr. of rentes on the 
 State, possessed by the Savings Bank, and by a deduc- 
 tion of from to 1 per cent, from the interest pay- 
 able to the holders. Deposits of from 1 fr. to 300 fr. are 
 received at a time, and inscribed in a lioret given to the 
 depositor, who is not allowed to have more than one in his 
 own name. The rate of interest for the ensuing year is fixed 
 by the council of directors in the month of December ; it is 
 
 for the last 15 years, according to official documents, is as fol- 
 lows : Articles pledged, 1 , 985 , 500 ; amount of loans, 38 , 282 , 9 oo fr • 
 average sum lent upon each article, 19 fr. 28 c. ; articles oil 
 which the duplicate has been renewed, 397,370 ; the amount of 
 loan they represent, 9 , 805 ,ooo fr. ; average sum per article 
 24 fr. 70 c. ; articles definitively redeemed, 1,435 900 ; sums re- 
 ceived, 26 , 999,360 fr. ; average sum per article, 18 fr. 80 c- 
 articles sold, 129, 89 o ; amount cleared by sale, 2,996,220 fr.- ex- 
 penses of administration, t, 107,879 fr. ; total o’f receipts 
 1 , 577,023 fr.; total of expenditure, 1,343,955 fr. Balance in favour 
 of the Mont de Pi 6 td, 233,068 fr. The average number of articles 
 delivered to the Police on suspicion of theft is 391, representin'^ 
 loans to the amount of 8,555 fr. The Mont de Pi 6 t 6 employs 
 300 perso-ns, whose salaries amount to 501,200 francs. 
 
 (1) There are 45 Monts de Pietd in France,’ of which five lend 
 gratuitou.‘ 5 ly. Before I 789 , there were only 22 in operation. Last 
 year the number of pledges was 3 , 400 , 087 , represenling a" value 
 of 48 , 922,251 fr. 20 e. ; Paris alone doing more business in ad- 
 vancing money than all the rest put together. One Iialf of ihe 
 loans vary from 1 fr. to 5 fr., and scarcely two-thirds reach 
 10 fr.; only about 700 are above 1,000 fr.,and 30 above 5,000 fr 
 
 (2) This establishment suffered to such an extent from the 
 revolution of is 48 , that it was scarcely expected to survive the 
 shock. The danger, however, was averted through Ihe timely 
 interference and support of the National Assembly. The follow- 
 ing table shows its progress during five years : — 
 
 Years 
 
 licceipls 
 
 No of Depos. 
 
 Payments 
 
 To Holders 
 
 1862 
 
 22,988,233 (V. 
 
 256, 1 85 
 
 2 1,326,97 4 fr. 
 
 9 1,2 8 1 
 
 1863 
 
 21,365,781 ,, 
 
 289,263 
 
 2 1,26 3,221 ,, 
 
 9 3,112 
 
 1864 
 
 22,890,226 ,, 
 
 252,656 
 
 24,886,224 ,, 
 
 95,270 
 
 1865 
 
 19,535,687 ,, 
 
 276,837 
 
 20,366,730 ,, 
 
 99,141 
 
 1866 
 
 22,496,792 „ 
 
 292,931 
 
 21,301,564 ,, 
 
 99j8l 1 
 
 9 
 
GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 130 
 
 at present k'A pci’ cent. Not more than lOOO fr. can k held 
 by the same person ; beyond that sum, the bank at once invests 
 as much of it as will ensure 10 fr. interest, in the rer.tes or 
 stocks. It will do the same upon demand with any iaferior 
 sum, provided it be sufficient to ensure 1 0 fr. interest. The 
 delay between the demand and the reimbursement of any ceposit 
 must not exceed 12 days. There are in France 492 o' these 
 establishments. All tlie money received, which here, as in the 
 departments, mostly belongs to workmen and servants, is paid 
 over to the Caisse cles Depdts et Consignations. 
 
 MEDICAL INSTITIITIONS. 
 
 The high reputation of the French Schools of Medicine, and 
 the advantages which they offer to the student, attract so 
 many foreigners to France that we shall here put together, for 
 the convenience of our professional readers, all that relates to 
 them and to the hospitals and medical societies of Paris. 
 
 1. PUBLIC SCHOOLS. — Paris has one of the three French 
 faculties or superior schools of medicine, the others being at 
 Montpellier and Strasbourg. Each of them confers degrees 
 which enable the recipient to practise in every part of France. 
 There are also preparatory or secondary schools of medicine 
 at Lyons, Bordeaux, Dijon, Toulouse, Caen, Rouen, and other 
 towns where most of the studies required for the profession 
 may be followed. The faculty of Paris i.s composed of the 
 doyen, or senior professor, 28 professors appointed by the 
 government, and 29 professeurs agreges, appointed by com 
 petition, and who lecture and examine in the absence of 
 the professors. Foreigners are admitted as students and to 
 take degrees in the French schools. To enter for this pur- 
 pose the student must have attained his 18th year, and pro- 
 duce the certificate of his birth duly legalised, and, if a minor, 
 the consent of his father or guardian for the step he is taking. 
 He must likewise be furnished with a certificate of his per- 
 sonal respectability (bonne vie et moeurs), and if he is a minor 
 and his father or guardian does not live in the town, he must 
 find a surety. A course of study of four years is prescribed 
 before the student can be admitted to examination for the 
 degree of Doctor of Medicine, or of Medicine and Surgery. 
 The student must enter in November, when the scholastic 
 ) ear begins. On lodging the above papers with tlie .secretary 
 of the faculty, (ogethcr with a diploma of bacJuiicr-es-lcttres, 
 
MEDICAL institutions. 131 
 
 hs cntors his iicUiic, 6tc., in a rBgistcr kept for that purpose 
 and is given a carte d’ inscription. He renews his inscription 
 I every quarter, until he has taken out sixteen inscriptions. 
 When this last inscription expires, viz., at the end of the 
 foiuth yeai, he can go in foi the final examinations (examens 
 \ de reception), lly the end of the third year, if he has not 
 I done so before, the foreign as well as the French student 
 ' must produce the diploma of bachelier-es-sciences in the 
 French University, for which he is examined in physics, che- 
 I mistry, and natural history. The cost of this diploma is 5o 
 fr. He has likewise to pass an examination in July of tlie 
 ; first, second, and third scholastic years, on the subjects of 
 i study of those years ; failing in any of which and in another 
 ! trial in November, he cannot present himself again for exa- 
 ' mination, nor take out another inscription till alter the lapse 
 : of a year. From the 8th inscription to the 1 6th the 
 j student must attend a hospital. There are five examina- 
 I tions, and after them the thesis. The subjects of examina- 
 I tion are detailed in the printed regulations. The last is 
 I practical. Two cases in the hospitals are selected, on which 
 i the diagnosis, prognosis, and treatment are expected to be 
 given. The candidates are examined in French, viva voce 
 and one a.Her the other in the alphabetical order of their names 
 for three-quarters of an hour at each examination. The 
 ‘thesis is a printed dissertation on a subject selected by the 
 student, and a discussion, viva voce, in support of it and on 
 fourteen questions drawn by lot corresponding to the fourteen 
 :branches of medical science tauglit in the schools. In the 
 ;degree of Doctor in Surgery, a farther examination is under- 
 ;gone. In case of rejection another trial is generally allowed 
 at the end of three months. 
 
 The fees paid in the French faculties are fixed by law 
 Viz.; — sixteen inscriptions at 30 fr., 480 fr. ; three annual 
 examinations (30 fr.), 90 fr.; five final, ditto (50 fr.), 250 fr • 
 iive certificats d'aptitude (ioh\) 200 fr.; thesis, loofr.’- another 
 pertificat d’aptitude, 40 fr. ; diploma, 100 fr.; total, ’l2C0 fr 
 ( 1 ) The expense of a medical education in Paris is thus trifling 
 tompared with that of the British schools. All the lectures at 
 the Ecole de Medecine, and most of those at the Ecole Pratique 
 (of which below) are pubiic and gratuitous; nor is any pav- 
 ment made for hospital attendance. The library of the Ecole 
 de Medecine, containing upwards of 30,000 volumes, and its 
 excellent Museum of comparative anatomy, are daily’ open to 
 students, except from Sept. 1 to Nov. 1. Gratuitous lectures 
 
 (1) The number of inscriptions taken at the 
 of the scholastic year I861-1862, was 1,131. 
 
 commencement 
 
132 GENERAL INFORMATION, 
 
 are also given at the Jardin des Plantes, the College de France, 
 and the Sorbonne, on general science and subjects relating 
 to medicine. (1) 
 
 The Ecole Pratique d’Anatomie is a kind of supplementary 
 school, composed of 150 students. Fifty new students are 
 yearly admitted by competition, and an equal number leave 
 the school at the same time, after 3 years’ study. It is here 
 and at the establishment of Clamart that the dissections are 
 performed. For these, including a proper supply of subjects 
 during the whole season, a payment of 30 fr. is expected 
 from such students as do not belong to the Ecole Pratique, 
 Mauyofthecourses at theEcole Pratique are gratuitous ; for others 
 a small fee, from lOfr. to 30 fr., is required. Annual prizes 
 are given at this school to the amount of 1680 fr. The sub- 
 jects treated of at this school vary frequently, as they depend 
 on the choice of the professors, who, although authorised, are 
 mostly agreges who have not yet obtained a regular chair ; 
 their lectures are therefore private undertakings. They may 
 at present be stated as follows;— Anatomy and surgical patho- 
 logy, by Batailhe ; general pathology and therapeutics, by 
 Axenfeld; midwifery, by Joulin and Tarnier ; syphilio- 
 graphy, by Clerc operative medicine, by Lefort; surgical 
 anatomy, by Guyon and Panas ; diseases of the chest, 
 by Mandl ; physiology, by Liegeois ; mental diseases, by 
 Lasegue; descriptive and physiological anatomy, and also her- 
 niary surgery, by Dupre ; nervous disorders, by Sandias. 
 Courses on various subjects are also given by other gentlemen 
 at their own houses or private dispensaries ; on diseases of the 
 eye, by Sichel and Desmarres ; female diseases, by Elleaume ; 
 internal pathology, by Racle; external pathology, by Pean, 
 etc. But these lectures, as well as those at the Ecole pratique, 
 vary every year, and even every two or three months ; and 
 the student will therefore do well to seek for information on 
 
 (1) The following is a list of the professorships, with the names 
 of the gentlemen holding them -.—Anatomy, Jarjavay ; Patholo- 
 gical Anatomy, Vulpian ; Physiology, Longet ; Medical Physics, 
 Gavarret- Hygienics, Bouchai’dat ; Medical Chemistry, Wurtz ; 
 Medical Pathology, Hardy and Axenfeld; External Pathology, 
 Broca Gosselin; Operations and Bandages, Denonvilliers ; Medi- 
 cal Jurisprudence, Tardieu ; General Pathology and Therapeutics, 
 Lasegue ; Therapeutics and Materia Medica, S6e ; Medical 
 Natural 'History, Baillon ; Pharmacology, Regnaiilt Clinical 
 Surgery, Laugier at the H6tel-Dieu, N6laton at the Hopital de 
 Clinique and Velpeau at the Charitii ; Clinical Medicine, Piorry 
 and Bouhlaud at La Charity, Grisolle and Guillotat the Hotel- 
 Dieu; Clinical Obstetrics, Depaul at the HSpital de Clinique; 
 Obstetrics and Diseases of Females and Children, Pajot ; Histology , 
 Robin. 
 
MEDICAL INSTITUTIOKS. 133 
 
 the subject in the entrance-court of the Ecole Pratique, where 
 these and all other extraordinary courses of lectures are an- 
 nounced by regular bills. Clinical lectures are given at nearly 
 all the hospitals ; thus Dr. See and Dr. Bouchut lecture on the 
 diseases of children at the Uopital des Enfans Malades, and at 
 the Hopital Ste. Eugenie ; on other diseases, Dr. Chassaignac 
 at the Hopital Larihoisiere, Dr. Cullerier at the Hopital du 
 ! Midi, etc. (See Hospitals). And at other hospitals private 
 lessons are given by the internes (l) on percussion, ausculta- 
 tion, and the diagnosis of diseases. 
 
 The medical session commences early in November, and 
 finishes in July. Many of the private courses continue until 
 September ; dissections are not allowed in the summer, but 
 operative surgery is permitted. Many of the hospitals are open 
 to the students ; where tickets are required, as at the Hotel 
 Dieu, they may be obtained on application at the bureau of 
 . the hospital. For admission to the Hopital des Cliniques, a 
 ticket must be obtained from the bureau of the Faculty, at the 
 I Ecole de Medecine. To visit the Lourcine, an hospital devoted 
 ; to the diseases peculiar to females, a special order is necessary, 
 
 : and the number of students is limited. The principal hospital 
 for lying-in women in the rue du Port Royal is closed to every 
 one. In the hospitals the visits of the medical officers take 
 place at an early hour, usually at 7 or 8 a. m. 
 
 A peculiar feature of the medical school of Paris is the 
 “concours.” Most of the appointments under the profes- 
 sorships, are determined by this test. A series of subjects 
 is selected, on which the competitors are obliged to treat 
 both in writing and orally ; these are determined by lot ; 
 each lesson is delivered in public and before the Faculty, and 
 it must occupy an hour. Each candidate must moreover 
 write a thesis on a subject selected by the judg^, and defend 
 it publicly against his opponents. The concours is a severe 
 trial, and this system is infinitely superior to that pursued 
 in England, where “preferment too often goes by favour,” 
 
 Great advantages are offered in the study of special patho- 
 logy, hospitals being set apart for patients afflicted with dis- 
 eases of the skin, those peculiar to infancy and old age, scro- 
 fula, calculus, syphilis, and mental derangement ; and perhaps 
 in no other country will the student have equal opportunities 
 of observing these affections. A season may indeed be well 
 
 (i) A certain number of students of medicine, surgery, and 
 pharmacy, varying from so to 4o, are annually selected, after a 
 concours, to attend the sick in the hospitals of Paris for the pur- 
 pose of practical instruction. They are called internes ; they re- 
 main in ofiflce for s years, and receive a yearly salary of 500 fr, 
 
134 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 spent in Paris at the Hospital St. Louis, one of the largest in 
 Europe, chiefly dedicated to cutaneous and scrofulous diseases. 
 
 Certificates of medical studies in a foreign faculty are taken 
 in France in deduction of those required for a degree, and 
 with regard to the degree of Bachelier-es-Sciences, if the 
 foreign student has obtained a similar degree in his own 
 country, he can apply to the Minister of Pul)lic Instriction 
 for a dispensation. The holder of a foreign diploma wishing 
 to obtain a French diploma, lias to submit to the examina- 
 tions established for that degree; but the minister can lelievc 
 him from the previous studies. (1) 
 
 Officicrs de Sante . — These are an inferior class of medical 
 practitioners. Before passing the examination of offtcier de 
 sante it is iiecessaiy to have taken out 12 inscriptions in a 
 faculty, which supposes three years of study, or fourteen 
 inscriptions in a preparatory school of medicine. The exa- 
 mination is either at a faculty or at a preparatory school in 
 the presence of a professor of a faculty. The examinations 
 take place in Sept, and Oct, They arc three in number: 
 1. Anatomy ; 2. surgery and pharmacy ; 3. the elements of 
 medicine. Besides this the candidate has to write a disserta- 
 tion on a question of a practical nature. The expense of the 
 examination amounts in all to> 580 fr, Officiers de sante can 
 only practise in the department where they have undergone 
 their examination. In order to practise in another, a new 
 examination is requisite. 
 
 Closely connected wdth the medical schools, is the 
 
 Musee Dupuytren, 15, me de FEcole de Medecine. — This 
 museum contains many curious and rare specimens, some 
 probably unique. It is especially rich in diseased osseous 
 structures, and one or two of the luxations are exceedingly 
 curious. The collection contains a heart in which the peri" 
 cardium is wanting, and the extraordinary case published by 
 Breschet, of the foetus within the substance of the walls of the 
 uterus. In the centre of the hall are numerous specimens of 
 diseases of the skin from various causes, modelled in papier- 
 mache. This museum is open to students daily, and to stran- 
 gers on application. Closed from Sept. 1 toNov. 1 . (see p. 390.) 
 
 Amphitheatre of Anatomv for the hospitals of Paris, 17, 
 rue du Fer a Moulin, on the site of the ancient burial-ground of 
 Clamart. It consists of well-ventilated galleries, one story 
 
 (i) llhas been calculated that France had, in i 864 , no less than 
 21,000 medical practilioners, an d 6,7G5 apotliecaries. Paris has 
 i ,580 doctors in medicine, 5io chemists, and 2H officiers-de- 
 sant6. On an average, i mediical man for 7 so inhabitants in 
 Paris, and one for every looo ini the departments. 
 
MEDICAL INSTITUTIONS. 135 
 
 high, lighted from the roof, a museum, a theatre for lectures, 
 and several small private rooms for dissections. Bodies are 
 removed hither from the hospitals; the numlicr lierc and at 
 the Ecole Pratique exceeds 4,000 annually (seep. 4 20.) Di- 
 rector, M. Series, who lives at the Jardin des Plantes, and to 
 whom application must he made for admission to the lectures. 
 
 Medical Botanical Garden. — For this seep. 382. 
 
 ficOLE ET Maison d’Accouchement, 5, rue du Port Royal. 
 — Tills school and hospital which occupies the buildings of 
 the Ahhey of Port Royal, rendered famous by the Jesuits and 
 Pascal, was devoted to public uses in 1796. It contains in 
 all 416 beds, of which 322 are for patients, and 94 for pu- 
 pils, besides 80 cradles for infants. Women are received here 
 in their last month of pregnancy, but, in case of urgency or 
 distress, they may be admitted in their eighth month, on pro- 
 mising to take charge of their offspring. They are attended 
 in their confinement by women, or, if need be, by the surgeons 
 of the institution ; and, if their health admits of it, are re- 
 moved from the hospital on the tenth day after their confine- 
 ment. If, notwithstanding the promise above-mentioned, a 
 woman refuses to take charge of her child, a commissary of 
 police is called in, who draws up the necessary declaration, 
 and the child is sent to the Hopital des Enfants Trouves. If, 
 on the contrary, a woman takes her child home, she receives 
 a small sum of money, and a supply of clothing. Work of 
 different kinds is provided for the women received here. The 
 mean term of a patient’s abode here is 18 clays. Medical 
 students are excluded from this hospital, which is devoted to 
 the instruction of young women educating as midwives. 
 (Ecole pour les Eleves Sages-Femmes.) The average number 
 of pupils is 80, some of whom are maintained at their own 
 expense, others by different departments of France ; 600 fr. 
 a-year is the charge for board and instruction. After a course 
 of two years, the pupils are examined by a jury, composed 
 of the chief professor and the physicians of the hospital, a 
 commissary of the Faculty of Medicine, and a commissary of 
 the Council-general of Hospitals, and are allowed to practise 
 on receiving a diploma. The number of licensed midwiv(>s in 
 Paris is 4 50 . Strangers are not allowed to inspect the hospital . 
 The average number of patients received here is 4,000 : the 
 mortality is nearly 1 in 18. The average cost of a patient 
 is 2 fr. 2 5 c. per day. Physician, llervieux ; surgeons, 
 Danyau and Reraud ; chief midwfife, Mme. Alliot. 
 
 Ecole de Pharmacie, 21, rue dc I’Arbaletc. — There are 11 
 professors attached to this school, who lecture on pharmacy, 
 chemistry, natural history, and botany. Apothecaries are 
 
136 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 examined here before they can practise as such (see p. 414.) 
 This establishment has a botanical garden of its own. (i) 
 ficOLES ImpeRIALES VetErINAIRES , ET BeRGERIES iMPE- 
 RIALES.— The former are three in number, at Alfort near Paris 
 at Lyons, and at Toulouse. The latter, for the breeding and 
 treatment of cattle, are at Rambouillet, Perpignan, La Have 
 Vaux (Vosges), and Mont Carmel (Pas-de-Calais). ’ 
 
 II. HOSPITALS. — The civil hospitals of Paris are under 
 the direction of the Administration of Public Assistance (see 
 p. 119.) The military hospitals are under the authority of the 
 staff of the garrison of Paris. The C onset I de Surveillance 
 decides all administrative measures, and superintends the pro- 
 perty, accounts, etc. of the hospitals and hospices. The bu- 
 reaux of the administration are facing the Hotel de Ville • 
 entrance at No. 3 Avenue Victoria (2). ’ 
 
 In all cases of emergency the medical man upon duty at 
 any of the hospitals may ieceive a patient into his establish- 
 ment. The head physicians also, at their morning consulta- 
 tions, may receive into their hospitals such patients as they 
 rnay think proper. Others may be admitted upon application at 
 the Bureau Central d’ Admission, opposite the cathedral of 
 Notre Dame. This is a board of 12 physicians and 6 surgeons 
 who relieve each other by rotation. From this body the 
 hospital surgeons and physicians are selected as vacancies 
 occur. They indicate the particular hospital for the patient 
 according to the nature of the complaint. Medical advice is 
 also given by the board to indigent persons, and children are 
 vaccinated here on Thursdays and Sundays at 1 1 . This latter 
 
 (1) A superior school of pharmacy is attached to each of the 
 three faculties of medicine of Paris, Montpellier, and Strashurg 
 and a preparatory school to each of the preparatory schools of 
 medicine. The superior schools confer the title of Pharmacien 
 and Herbonste de Premiere Classe, who can exercise their profes- 
 sion everywhere in France. A course of study is required of 
 candidates of three years in a superior school, and three and a 
 half years in a preparatory school of pharmacy, and three vears 
 passed at a chemist’s. The expenses of this course, including 
 me examination and diploma, are 1,390 fr. The degree of 
 Bachelier-es-Sciences in the university is also required. The pre- 
 paratory as well as the higher schools, admit to the degree of 
 pharmacien and herboriste of the second class ; the former after 
 passing SIX years in a pharmacy, and one year’s study in a supe- 
 rior, and a year and a half in a preparatory school. The expenses 
 tor the pharmacien of this class are 460 fr., and for the herboriste 
 only 50 fr. They cannot practise beyond the limits of the depart- 
 ment in which they were examined without a fresh examination. 
 
 (2) It appears from the last general returns that the hospitals 
 ancl uospic^s of Paris support every year (in round numbers) 
 
HOSPITALS. 137 
 
 operation also takes place every Tuesday at the mairies ; to 
 encourage this useful practice, three francs are paid to the 
 parents for every child; and children not having undergone 
 the process are excluded from the free schools of Paris. 
 
 All the civil hospitals of Paris are divided into three classes t 
 — 1 . General Hospitals, open to those complaints for which a 
 special hospital is not provided; of these the H6tel Dieu is 
 the principal ; 2. Special Hospitals, devoted to the sole treat- 
 I ment of particular classes of disorders, as, for example, cu- 
 taneous, mental, &c. ; and, 3. Hospices or Alms-houses. Those 
 under the direction of the Council General of Public Assistance 
 are twenty-six. Upwards of 40 millions of francs have been 
 expended since 1830 on the hospitals of Paris. (1) 
 
 In 1803 the population of Paris was 700,000, and the number 
 of beds in the hospitals 5,620; in 1851, only 7,337, with a 
 population of 1,100,000. (2) The total number of beds in 
 the hospitals and hospices is at present 19,600, all of iron. 
 All the hospitals have different wards for various diseases. 
 
 The reader will find all the necessary information concerning 
 i the hospices, at p. 118. We here subjoin a list of the hos- 
 pitals of Paris, divided into general and special (3.) 
 
 12.000 aged and infirm men and women, and yearly receive nearly 
 
 90.000 patients, 5,200 of whom are always under cure or care ; 
 
 5.000 children are yearly received, and 14,000 are always out at 
 nurse in the country ; 500 are apprenticed yearly. Besides this 
 there are now 56 establishments for out-door relief. 
 
 ( 1 ) There are in France 1 , 3 33 hospitals or hospices, the property 
 ofwhich amounts to 408,254,77ifr. ; 1 national hospital for the 
 blind, 332,492 fr. ; 7,599 bureaux de bienfaisance, 13,557,836 fr.; 
 46 monts de pidtd, the annual loans of which are 48, 000, 000 fr.; 
 39 asylums for the deafand dumb ; 1 school for theblind, 156,699 
 francs; i44 foundling hospitals; 37 lunatic asylums receiving 
 4,826,168 fr.; and 1 Maison Imperiale at Charenton, 459,875 fr., 
 malting a total of 9,201 establishments, and an annual expenditure 
 of 1 15,441,232 francs. 
 
 ( 2 ) The following is the average statistical condition of the 
 above institutions calculated for the last ten years -.—General 
 and Special Hospitals.— Admissions, 62,500 medical, and 23,400 
 surgical cases. Cures, 54,600 medical, and 22,100 surgical cases. 
 Deaths, s,ooo medical, and i,4oo surgical cases. Average num- 
 ber of days passed in the hospitals by men 26 ; women, 27 ; 
 boys, 32; girls, 35 . Mortality, men, 1 in 9’5o; women, 1 in 
 10 ; boys, 1 in 7 ; girls, 1 in 7‘5. The maximum of beds occu- 
 pied occurred in March and December; the minimum in July 
 and August. — Hospices and Maisons de Retraite. — Admissions, 
 
 7.000 ; exits, 5,600 ; deaths, i, 600 . 
 
 ( 3 ) For children labouring under scrofula the administration 
 has provided two branch hospitals; one at Forges-les-Bains 
 (Seine-et Oise), the other at BerckTgi|r-M§r (Pas de Calais). 
 
GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 133 
 
 General Hospitals . — Ildtel Dieu . — Consists of large build- 
 ings, separated by the southern branch of the river, divided 
 into wards for men and for women ; there are also gardens for 
 convalescents. The laboratory, pharmacy, laundry, &cc., are 
 all on a large scale. The Hospital is composed of three detached 
 parts, connected by means of a covered bridge and a tunnel 
 passing under the quay with the new buildings erected in the 
 Enclos Saint Julien. The modern portion of the Hotel Dieu 
 in the Enclos Saint Julien contains 104 beds. The total num- 
 ber of beds here at present is 828. Thirty-three Augustinian 
 nuns attend. In this house are received the wounded and 
 sick, with the exception of children, incurable and insane 
 persons, and those with cutaneous or syphilitic diseases. Ly- 
 ing-in women are admitted only in cases of extreme necessity, 
 there being a special hospital for that class of patients. (See 
 p. 135.) The yearly average number of patients is 12,000, and 
 the mortality 1 in 18. Physicians: Drs. Barth, Fauvol, 
 Gueneau de Mussy, Moissenet, Vigla, and Tardieu. Sur- 
 geons : MM. Laugier and Maisonneine. Professional men 
 ought not to neglect visiting the Hotel Dieu, since it may 
 be taken as a large model of the others. (See p. 308 .) 
 
 The following is an average view of the annual receipts and 
 expciidilure of the administration of the Hospitals and Chari- 
 table Institutions of Paris; net receipts, 19,800,000 fr. ; ex- 
 penditure, 19,000,000 fr. The receipts include, among other 
 items, rents of land, houses, &c., 1 ,100,000 fr. ; interest of 
 capital, 4 , 700,000 fr. ; contributions of theatres and places of 
 amusement, 1,700,000 IV. ; subvention of the Department of the 
 Seine for the Enfants Trouves, 2,500,000 fr. ; concessions of burial- 
 ground, 200,000 fr. ; sale of medicines, refuse, &c., 3,000,000 fr. 
 
 The expenses include ; General Hospitals, 3,000,000 fr.; Spe- 
 cial Hospitals, 2 ,ioo,ooofr.; Maisonlmp^riale de Santd, 300,000 fr.; 
 Maisons de Retraite, 650,000 fr. ; Hospices, 4,000,000 fr. ; Chari- 
 table foundations, 350,000 fr. ; buildings and repairs, 600,000 fr.; 
 Administration, including pliysicians, 2,200,000 fr. ; Found- 
 lings, 2 , 700,000 fr. The average cost of each patient per diem 
 is : — ^^General Hospitals, 2 fr. 22 c. ; Special Hospitals, 2 fr. 6 c. ; 
 Hospices, 1 fr. 34 c.; Maisons de Retraite, 1 fr. 34 c. 
 
 The chief items of consumption in the hospitals and hospices 
 .are: Flour, 5,800,000 liil.; bread, 3,200,000 Idl.; wine, 1,800,000 
 litres; meat, 1,400,000 kil.; butter, 1 10,000 kil. ; milk, 1,800,000 
 litres. The total value of furniture and linen of every descrip- 
 tion belonging to the hospitals and hospices of Paris is about 
 10 , 500,000 fr., including 563 hathing-tuhs. 
 
 All public jdaces of amusement pay a tax of 8 per cent, on 
 their receipts toxvards the support of the ho.spitals ; and a heavy 
 tax for their support is levied on every piece of ground jmr ■ 
 chased for the purpose of burial in the cemeteries. Private mu- 
 nificence also contributes largely to their maintenance. 
 
HOSPITALS. 
 
 139 
 
 Hdpital Lariboisiere, rue St. Vincent do Panic, a hospital 
 opened in 1854. The same classes of patients as are admitted 
 to the Hotel Dieu are received here. The number of beds is 
 634 ; twenty-four Dames de St. Augustin attend on the 
 patients. Physicians: MM. Boucher dc la Ville- Jessy, Richard, 
 Gallard, Oulmoiit, Duplay, and Ilerard. Surgeons: MM. 
 Cusco, Voillemicr, and Chassaignac. (See p. 234.) 
 
 The Hdpital de la Piiie, 1, rue Lacepede, is a hospital an- 
 nexed to the Hotel Dieu. The buildings are spacious, and contain 
 620 beds . The yearly average number of patients is 10,750; and 
 the mortality 1 in 11 '50. Physicians: Drs. Marrolte, Behier, 
 Malice, See, and Bernutz. Surgeon : M. Gosselin. Clinical 
 lectures on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, at 9 a.m. 
 Twenty-five sisters of Ste. Marthe attend (see p. 42 6.) 
 
 Hdpital de la Charite, 45, rue Jacob. Clinical and medical 
 schools have been established here. It contains 474 beds. 
 The same diseases are treated as at the Hotel Dieu. The 
 Dames de St. Augustin attend upon the sick. The yearly 
 average of patients is 8,000, and the mortality 1 in 20. — Phy- 
 sicians : Di’s. Pelletan, Bourdon, Nonat, and Pidoux. Sur- 
 geons : MM. Velpeau, Malgaigne. Clinical lectures by MM. 
 Velpeau, and Bouillaud. (Seep. 355.) 
 
 Hdpital Beaujon, 208, rue du Faubourg St. Honore. This 
 fine hospital, spacious and airily situated, contains 416 beds. 
 The annual average of patients is 5100; the mortality is 1 
 in 14. A new system of ventilation has been applied at this 
 hospital, which answers admirably. It is well worthy the at- 
 tention of all who are interested in the subject of hygiene. — 
 Physicians: Drs. Gubler, Fremy, Lailler, and Moutard-Martin. 
 Surgeons : MM. Morcl-Lavallee and Huguier. Drs. Mahon 
 brothers for the treatment of the scurf. The patients are 
 attended by the Sceurs de Ste. Marthe (see p. 196.) 
 
 Hdpital St. Antoine, 184, rue du Faubourg St. Antoine. — 
 Tire patients here are of the same class as those of the Hotel 
 Dieu, and are attended by 30 Sceurs de Ste. Marthe. The 
 number of beds is 480. The average yearly number of patients 
 is 4,800, mortality 1 in 22. Physicians : Drs. Bernard, 
 Laboulbene, Jaccoud, Mesnet, and Woillez. Surgeon: M. 
 Jarjavay (see p. 27 8.) 
 
 Hdpital Necker, 151, rue de Sevres. — Besides the cases of 
 general disease treated at this hospital, tliere are 7 beds for 
 mothers with infants at the breast, and two more, containing 
 12 beds, for calculary disease, under the care of Dr. Civiale, 
 who gives clinical lectures there on Saturdays from 9 to 11. 
 The number of beds is 386. The yearly average number of 
 patients is 4800, and the mortality 1 in 17. — Physicians: 
 
140 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 Drs. Delpech, Lasegue, Bouley, and Vernois. Surgeon : M. 
 Desorraeaux. Twenty Sceurs tie Charite attend (see p. 337 .) 
 
 Hdpital Cochin, 47, rue du Faubourg St. Jacques. The 
 same cases are treated here as at the Hotel Dieu. The num- 
 ber of beds is 119; and three Soeurs de Ste. Marie d’Esperance 
 attend upon the patients. The annual average number of pa- 
 tients is 2,100, and the mortality 1 in 10. — Physician: Dr. 
 Chapotin de St. Laurent. Surgeon - M. Guerin (seep. 415.) 
 
 Special Hospitals. — Hdpital St. Louis. — 4o, rue Bichat. 
 Though chiefly designed for the treatment of cutaneous dis- 
 eases and scrofula, it receives also cases of acute disorders and 
 surgical cases. It had many patients during the cholera. 
 Male patients able to pay, are received in a separate pavilion, 
 at the rate of 2 fr. a-day. In-door patients, who are able, 
 are encouraged to work in the garden at 1 sou per hour. It 
 contains 810 beds, the number of in-door patients having con- 
 siderably diminished since the discovery of a new method for 
 curing the itch, which is now performed in two hours. It has 
 a large bathing-establishment for in and out-door patients, 
 and is justly celebrated for its medicated and mineral baths, 
 particularly those of a sulphureous nature. There is also a 
 large vapour bath, admitting by distinct entries eight patients 
 at the same time. Another, of a different construction, is 
 fitted up with douches, 8cc. Upwards of 25,000 persons 
 annually avail themselves of the baths, and in a single year 
 180,000 have been served. The average number of patients 
 yearly is 9000, and the mortality 1 in 19. Gratuitous advice 
 is given by the medical men to the poor. — Physicians ; Drs. 
 Vidal, Gibert, Bazin, Devergie, Hillairet and Hardy, who 
 during certain months deliver clinical lectures on diseases of 
 the skin. Surgeons : MM. Denonvilliers and Richet. There 
 are also 10 internes for medicine, and 7 for pharmacy. The 
 Dames de St. Augustin attend. It has two clinical lecture- 
 rooms ( see p. 251.) 
 
 Hdpital du Midi, 15, rue des Capucins St. Jacques. — This 
 hospital is exclusively reserved for male syphilitic patients. It 
 contains 336 beds, besides 21 for persons able to pay. All the 
 attendants are males. The annual average number of patients 
 is 3, 300. — Physician: Dr. Simonet, Surgeon* M. Foucher. 
 The clinical lectures of Dr. Ricord are very celebrated. 
 Gratuitous advice given to out-door patients from 9 to 10. 
 Mortality 1 in 257 (see p. 415.) 
 
 Hdpital Lourcine, ill, rue de Lourcine, reserved for female 
 syphilitic patients. — Contains 276 beds, of which 226 are for 
 adults, and 50 for children ; it is exceedingly well regulated. 
 The average number of patients in the year is 2000, and the 
 
HOSPITALS. 141 
 
 mortality l in 27. The nature of the diseases here treated 
 being such as to make medical men rather unwilling to under- 
 take the management of the patients, the Board of Health has 
 imposed upon every physician desirous of a place in an hos- 
 pital the obligation of passing some time in this, so that there 
 are continual changes among the medical men attached to it. 
 The actual physicians are Dr. Goupil and Dr. buys ; sur^ 
 geons, MM. Verneuil and Richard Professional men easily 
 obtain tickets. 
 
 Hdpital des Cliniques de la Faculti de Medecine, Place de 
 i’ficole de Medecine. — ^This hospital, containing 189 beds, is 
 appropriated to surgical diseases and midwifery. A course of 
 midwifery is given here to female aspirants to that profession, 
 who during their stay assist in the hospital. The averse 
 number of accouchements is 1000 a-year ; that of surgical 
 cases 600. This is the only hospital of the kind to which 
 students are admitted. Clinical lectures are given by the sur- 
 geon and physician, Nelaton and Paul Dubois, the latter 
 for obstetrics. Strangers are not admitted to these lectures 
 without a card, to be obtained at the bureau of the Faculty 
 of the School of Medecine (see p. 393.) 
 
 Hdpital des Enfants Malades, 149, rue de Sevres, — Ex- 
 clusively devoted to the diseases of children. The salubrity 
 of the air, and the neighbouring walks, contribute greatly to 
 the speedy convalescence of the young patients. Gymnastics 
 have been introduced here with great advantage. It contains 
 698 beds. The children are admitted from 2 to 1 5 years of age. 
 Gratuitous advice is also given to sick children in the neighbour- 
 hood, The average number of patients yearly is 3525, and the 
 mortality l in 38. Physicians ; Drs. Bouvier, Archambault, 
 Bucquoy, Roger, Blache, and Bade. Surgeon : M. Giraldte. 
 The Dames de St. Thomas de Villeneuve attend on the 
 patients (see p. 337.) 
 
 The Hdpital Ste, Eugenie, 89, rue de Charenton, establislied 
 in 1854, under the patronage of the Empress, for the reception 
 of sick children, contains 405 beds. Physicians; MM. Barlhez, 
 Bergeron, Bouchut. Surgeon; M. Marjolin. Ten Dames de 
 St. Augustin attend the patients (see p. 283). 
 
 The Salpdtriere, 47, Boulevard de I’Hopital, wiiichmay be 
 ranked among the hospices, is an hospital for incurable, epi- 
 leptic, or lunatic female patients, and patients advanced in age. 
 It contains 5,204 beds, of which 2,9 17 only are occupied by 
 real patients. The physicians of this establishment are MM. 
 Trelat, Charcot, Richard, Vulpian, Mitivie, Lelut, Falret, and 
 Baillarger Moreau. Surgeon : M. Follin (see p. 440.) 
 
 The Hdpital Militaire du Val-de-Grdce contains 1500 beds. 
 
142 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 — Physicians ; MM. Godelier, Lustreraau, Champouillon, and 
 Mounier. Surgeon; M. Laveran (see p. 418.) 
 
 Connected with the hospitals are the following : 
 
 Boulanger ie Gemrah, 1 3, Place Scipion. — This is tlie ge 
 nerai bakehouse for all the hospitals (see p. 420.) 
 
 Cave Generale, 2, rue Notre Dame. — Ilere all the wines 
 spirits, Sec., used in the hospitals are delivered . 
 
 Pharmacie Centrale des Hdpitaux et Hospices, 47, Quai 
 de la Tournelle. — A general dispensary, where medicines'are 
 prepared by steam. 
 
 Hdpital St. Merri, CloitreSt. Merri, for poor patients of the 
 4th arrond. It contains 7 beds for men, and 7 for women. 
 
 The Jeivish hospital recently erected by M. de Rothsclnld 
 at 7 6, rue de Piepus, contains loo beds in all, viz., 60 for 
 patients, and 40 for the old and disabled. Physician ; Dr. 
 Brossard. Surgeon: Dr. Chonnow (see p. 279.) 
 
 There are also charitable societies for medical purposes 
 such as the ; Societe nationale de Vaccine ; Societe medicale 
 d' Accouchement ; Societe medico-philanthropique ; Maison 
 des saiurs garde-malades ; Societe medicale da Temple, &c. 
 
 Besides hospitals, there are certain establishments called 
 
 Maisons de SantE, which receive patients, who pay various 
 prices according to the accommodation they receive. They 
 are conducted generally by a medical man of reputation, who 
 boards, lodges, and attends the patients ; they have gardens, 
 and some are agreeable places for sick people. Rooms con- 
 taining a single or several beds may be had according to the 
 means of the patients; and persons condemned for political 
 offences, whose health would.be endangered by the confinement 
 of a prison, are sometimes allowed to reside on their jiarole, 
 and on the responsibility of the director of the establishment’ 
 in a Maison de Saute. Persons confined for debt in any of 
 the prisons of Paris may be transferred to a Maison de Sante ; 
 but the proprietor of the establishment is held responsible for 
 the full amount of the debt due should the prisoner escape. 
 The Maison Imperiale de Sante, 200 , rue du Faubourg St. 
 Denis, the best establishment of the kind, receives patients 
 at from 4 fr. to 7 fr. per diem, operations and attendance in- 
 cluded. It contains 3oo beds. The number of patients ad- 
 mitted annually is about 1 600, and the average mortality i 
 in 7. — Physicians: Drs. Cazalis and Ghauffard. Surgeon: 
 M. Demarquay. 
 
 III. MEDICAL SOCIETIES. — The most important is the 
 Academic hnperiale de Medecine, 39, rue des Saints Peres. 
 — Previous to the revolution of 17 89, there was an Academy 
 of Medicine and another of Surgery. The former was created 
 
MEDICAL SOCIETIES. 143 
 
 ill 1776, and the latter in 1731. Upon the formation of the 
 Institute, the Medical Academy was annexed to tlie class of 
 the sciences. By an ordonnance of Dec. 20, 1820, the Aca- 
 demy was restored, and definitively organized by decrees in 
 1829 and 183 • The object of its institution is to reply to 
 inquiries of the government relative to everything that concerns 
 the public health. The number of its resident members, now 
 amounting to 114, is to be reduced to 100 by extinction; so 
 that at present the Academy only nominates one member after 
 three extinctions. It has besides 14 free members and 32 
 foreign associates, correspondents not inclujjed. The Academy 
 holds public sittings every Tuesday, at 3 o’clock. 
 
 SocieU de Medecine de Paris. — This society devotes its 
 attention to epidemic diseases and the human constitution, 
 and keeps up a correspondence with physicians and scientific 
 men in France and foreign countries. It publishes the Revue 
 Medicale. Meets at tlie Hotel de Ville, 1st and 3d Friday of 
 every month, at 3 p.m. 
 
 Societe de Medecine Pratique. — ^For the study and cure of 
 epidemic diseases. It meets at the Hotel de Ville, first 
 Thursday of every month. Gratuitous vaccination. 
 
 Societe de Cliirurgie, rue de FAbbaye, No. 3. — Meets at 
 the Hotel de Ville, on Wednesdays, ai 7 p. m. 
 
 Societe d’ Observation, for the reading and discussion of 
 medical cases. — The meetings are at the Hotel Dieu, on Satur- 
 days, but are not public. 
 
 Societe Anatomique, one of the most interesting scientific 
 societies of Paris. — The most curious specimens of morbid 
 anatomy arc brought to the society from the different hospitals. 
 Meetings on Thursdays, at the Ecole Pratique. 
 
 The Parisian Medical Society, established in 1837, consists 
 of English practitioners and students, as well as European 
 medical men. 
 
 German Medical Society, 24, rue de FEcole de Medecine. 
 This society meets every Monday. 
 
 Societe des Sciences Medicates. At the Hotel de Ville on 
 the 4th Friday of every montli. 
 
 Besides these, there are also the Societes Medico-Pratique 
 and Medecine VetMinaire, at the Hotel de Ville; the Societe 
 Medicale d’ Emulation, at the Ecole de Medecine; the SocieU 
 de Pharmacie, 21 , rue de I’Arbalete; La Societe Biologique, 
 at the Ecole Pratique ; and the Societe d’llydrologie Medicate, 
 for the study of mineral waters, 3, Quai Malaquais. More- 
 over, every arrondissement of Paris now possesses its medical 
 society 
 
144 
 
 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 PART II. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF PARIS IN WALKS. 
 PIKST "WALK. 
 
 This comprises part of the 1st arrondissement, containing 
 
 The Palace of the Tuileries.— This palace occupies the 
 site of a rubbish-shoot and some tile-fields that existed in the 
 time of Charles VI. (147 6), and had furnished Paris for four 
 centuries. (1) In 1518, Francis I. purchased a house erected 
 there by Des Essarts and De Villeroi, for his mother, Louise 
 de Savoie, who found the air of the royal residence, the Palais 
 des Tournelles in the Marais, unwholesome. In 1525 this 
 princess gave the Hotel des Tuileries to Jean Tiercelin, maitre 
 d’hotel to the Dauphin ; it subsequently became the property 
 of Catherine ce Medicis, who had the present edifice begun as 
 a residence fcr herself in 1564. P. Delorme and J. Bullant 
 erected the ceatral pavilion, the two adjoining wings, and the 
 low pavilions by which they are terminated. Here her work 
 stopped, for being alarmed by an astrological prediction bidding 
 her beware o:' St. Germain, and the Tuileries being in the 
 parish of St. Germain FAuxerrois, she fixed her abode at the 
 Hotel de SoissDiis. Under Henry IV. the palace was enlarged 
 by Ducerceau and Dupei’ac, who raised two other ranges of 
 building facel with composite pilasters, and erected lofty 
 pavilions at each end. This king also began the long gal- 
 lery along the quay. Louis XIV. caused Levau and d’Orbay 
 to complete i:, and to add an attic to the central buildings ; 
 but he soon after neglected the works, and transferred his 
 court to Versailles. The Regent Duke of Orleans resided at 
 the Tuileries luring the minority of Louis XV.; but from that 
 period till tte forced return of Louis XVI., the families of 
 persons officixlly attached to the Court occupied it. T h is 
 palace is inscribed on almost every page of the history 
 of the first revolution. The mob entered it on June 20, 
 1792, and oi Aug. lo of the same year it was attacked 
 and the Svvhs guards massacred. It was the official re- 
 sidence of the First Consul, and subsequently the imperial pa- 
 lace. In 1808 Napoleon began the northern gallery, to commu- 
 
 (i) The fouidalions of the old tile-kilns were discovered in 
 some excavatiins made in 18 36. 
 
PALACE OF THE TtJlLERlES. 145 
 
 ulcale with the Louvre. After the Restoration the Tuileries 
 contiu'ed to be the chief residence of the King and Royal Fa- 
 mily. After the revolution of 1830, when the people attacked 
 and took the palace (July 29th), Louis Philippe fixed his re- 
 sidence in it, and continued to inhabit it till the 24th of Fe- 
 bruary, 1848, when it was again invaded by the people, and 
 the King made his escape. By a decree of the Provisional 
 IGovernment, dated Feb. 26 th, 1848, which was never put into 
 I' execution, this palace was to be thenceforth transformed into 
 an axylum for invalid workmen. During and after the insur- 
 rection of June, it was used as an hospital for the wounded. 
 In 1 849 the yearly exhibition of paintings was opened in it. At 
 present it is the official residence of the Emperor. 
 
 Exterior . — The extreme length of the facade is 33o yards, 
 its breadth 36. The reconstruction of the southern portion of 
 the palace, called the Pavilion de Flore, commenced a few 
 years ago, and is now nearly completed, and remarkable 
 for its rich sculpture. This and the adjoining new edifices 
 have been subjected to the process of washing with silicate of 
 alumina, which hardens the soft stone used in the building 
 (1). The other pavilion in the rue de Rivoli, called Pavilion 
 Marsan, is also to be reconstructed. The columns on the 
 lower story of the central facade are Ionic ; on the second 
 Cormthian ; on the third Composite. Those on each side of 
 the Pavilion de I’Horloge consisted originally of a long gallery 
 to the south and the grand staircase to the north. Towards 
 the garden, vaulted arcades extended in front of these from 
 the central pavilion, forming terraces on the top. 
 
 Interior.— li would be difficult, in the present state of the 
 palace,^ to give a correct idea of the interior. The entrance 
 to Louis Philippe’s apartments was by the Pavilion de Flore. 
 The room in which the ex-King consented to his abdication (2), 
 and which was called the Grand Cabinet du Roi, still exists ; 
 but no portion of this side of the palace is now visible. These 
 apartments were formerly occupied by Marie Antoinette. 
 Madame Adelaide, the Prince and Princess de Joinville, and 
 
 ! (i) During the demolitions, several Caps of Liberty of 1793 
 Iwere found behind the hangings. 
 
 ( 2 ) Some brief particulars concerning that memorable event 
 cannot fail to interest the reader. In the course of the night of 
 February 23d, barricades had been erected in all the streets of 
 the metropolis. At 8 o’clock in the morning, M. Emile de Girar- 
 ^in, the chief editor of the Pvesse^ arrived at the Tuileries, where 
 be lound MM. Thiers, Odilon Barrot, de R 6 musat, Duvergler de 
 Hauranne, and Lamoriciere, apparently unconscious of what was 
 going on. After a brief consultation, these gentlemen hastily 
 drew up a short proclamation announcing the formation of a 
 
 10 
 
146 first walk, 5 
 
 their respective suites, lodged in the same pavilion. The q 
 Pavilion Marsan at the northern end, with part of the ; 
 lateral gallery called the New Gallery of the Louvre, was I 
 occupied by the Duchess of Orleans, the Comte de Paris, \ 
 
 Thiers-Barrot ministry, and the dissolution of the Chamber of 
 Deputies. M. de Girardin immediately took it to the printing- i 
 office of the Presse to get it printed. But the insurgents, when , 
 they learned its contents, ridiculed it and would not allow it to ^ 
 he stuck on the walls. M. de Girardin then returned to the 
 Tuileries, and, having previously informed Marshal Bugcaud of 
 what had taken place, was admitted into the royal cabinet. , 
 The King was in an arm-chair near the window ; MM. Thiers 
 and Rdmusat were leaning against tlie chimney-piece. “ What 
 is the matter, M. de Girardin?” asked the King.— “ Sire,” was 
 the answer, “ your Majesty is losing most precious moments; 
 if a bold measure is not at once adopted, in an hour royalty 
 will he no more!” These words created great astonishment. 
 After a moment of desponding silence, the King said ; “ What 
 is to be done?”— “ Your Majesty must abdicate,” answered 
 M. de Girardin.— “ Abdicate?”- “ Yes, Sire, and confer the re- 
 gency on the Duchess of Orleans, for the Duke of Nemours 
 would not be accepted.”— “ The King then rose and said : 
 
 “ Gentlemen, do you wish me to mount on horseback?” This 
 was not approved of; M. de Montpensier stepped forward and 
 urged the King to abdicate. The King replied : “ I abdicate...” 
 And is the regency of the Duchess of Orleans accepted?” 
 asked M. de Girardin. At this moment the report of musketry 
 began to be more distinctly heard; it became evident that the 
 Tuileries might soon be attacked. “ Go, go, M. de Girardin,” 
 exclaimed the King. M. de Girardin obeyed, and attempted to 
 reach the office of the Presse, in order to have a proclamation 
 printed with the greatest possible expedition. But finding his 
 progress impeded by countless barricades and dense crowds of 
 armed people, he returned to the Tuileries. The entrance was 
 thronged with persons who had repaired thither to learn tlie 
 real state of affairs. He was recognized by a few, to whom he 
 hurriedly communicated the important news of which he was 
 the bearer; whereupon they advised him to draw up the pro- 
 clamation on the spot, which he did, and wrote several copies 
 of it, which were immediately passed from hand to hand, and 
 despatched to be posted, up. All tliis time the Chiileau d’Eau, 
 on tlie Place du Palais Royal, was being defended against a hu'gc 
 number of insurgents by a handful of determined municipal 
 guards and a small detachment of troops. AUbough about 8,000 
 men, consisting of infantry, cavalry, and artillery, were sta- 
 tioned but a few' steps off in the court of tlie Tuileries, no rein- 
 forcement was despatched to their assistance. Mcanw'hile the 
 King had sent for Marshal Bugeaud, wdio had been ready to take 
 the command of the city a few hours previous: but Hie marslial 
 told him frankly that the hour for repressing tire insurrection 
 had gone by. In the dismay follow'ing such an announcement, 
 the Royal Family w’ere alarmed by the increasing sound 
 
PALACE OP THE TDILERIES. 147 
 
 the Duke and Duchess of Montpensier, the Duke and 
 Duchess de Nemours, and the Duke and Duchess d’Aumale. 
 The upper stories and entresols contain apartments for attend- 
 ants, etc. At present the state apartments are the only portion 
 of the palace to which strangers are sometimes admitted with 
 a ticket (see p. iv.j, but only when the Emperor is absent. 
 
 The stranger is conducted up a staircase situated between 
 ’the Pavilion de Marsan and the Pavilion de VHorloge, called 
 the Escalier de la Chapelle, and which gives access to the 
 •^Antichambre de la Chapelle. Here the ceiling, brought from 
 Vincennes, where it adorned the sleeping apartment of La 
 Reine Blanche, is worthy of notice, both for its antiquity and 
 elaborate workmanship. To the left on entering, a door opens 
 into the Foyer da Thedtre, which leads to the Theatre, an 
 elegant saloon with avaulted ceiling, supported by Ionic columns 
 |all around, two tiers of boxes, and the pit. A range of much 
 smaller boxes runs immediately below the ceiling. This thea- 
 tre, which is capable of accommodating 800 spectators, is used 
 
 bf musketry. The defenders of the Chateau d’Eau had just 
 ween overcome, and the victorious multitude were approaching 
 the Tuileries. The palace might easily have been defended ; 
 but the King, informed of the partial defection of the National 
 Guards and of the troops, who had quietly surrendered their 
 arms to the people, resolved not to resist, in the hope that 
 timely resignation might remove any opposition on the part of 
 the people to the accession of the Count of Paris to the throne. 
 He therefore gave oi’ders not to oppose any resistance to the peo- 
 ple. A few minutes afterwards the excited multitude penetrated 
 into theCourt. The King resolved upon flight, and theMonarchy 
 of 1830 was no more. A few random shots were fired from the 
 ranks of the insurgents, and shortly afterwards, the abode of 
 royalty was unresistingly invaded hy the people, who were far 
 from expecting so easy a victory. While the splendid saloons 
 and chambers of the palace w ere thus receiving (not for the 
 first time) their revolutionary masters, a far different scene Avas 
 proceeding in the Garden of the Tuileries. Persons stationed 
 on the balconies of the rue de Rivoli, a few minutes before one 
 o’clock, could see a mournful procession, wending its way 
 along the southern terrace of the garden. The King, accom- 
 panied by some National Guards on horseback and about 3o cl- 
 ficers in uniform, emerged from the Avestern gate, lending his 
 right arm to the Queen. Both Avere dressed in black. His suite 
 addressed the feAv persons on the Place de la Concorde Avith 
 the words : “ Une grande infortune!” Louis Philippe and his 
 consort, after stopping a moment on the very spot Avhere 56 
 years before Louis XVI. had been beheaded, retraced their steps 
 to Avhere tAVo small black one-horse carriages Avere stationed. 
 Two very young children were in the first. The royal couple 
 entered the vehicles, and immediately set off at full gallop 
 along the quays in the direction of Saint Cloud, never to return. 
 
J 48 FIRST WALK. 
 
 as a supper-room when halls arc given at court. Returning to 
 the Antichamhre de la Chapelle, a door opposite to the former 
 leads to the Salle des travees, or Salon de la Chapelle, from 
 which doors communicate with the state pew of the Chapel. 
 This and the following saloons are all decorated with gilt panel- 
 lings, arabesques, &c., upon a white ground. The Chapel, ' 
 which occupies the ground and first-floor, is plain, with a gal- 
 lery and ceiling resting upon Doric columns of stone and stucco. ’ 
 The balustrade of the state-pew is decked with red velvet, em- 
 broidered in gold. In this chapel there formerly stood a cele- 
 brated organ, which was destroyed during the revolution of 
 1789. Adjoining the Salle des travees is the Antichamhre de 
 VEscalier d’Honneur, with a ceiling similar to that already | 
 noticed in the other antechamber, and also brought from Vin- 
 cennes. The Escalier d’Honneur, leading straight down to 
 the ground floor of the Pavilion de l’Horloge,is crowned with a 
 balustrade of bronze and polished steel. Its ceiling rests upon 
 Corinthian columns, which give it an appearance of grandeur 
 suitable to the palace. The antechamber gives access to the 
 Salle de la Paix, formerly Salle Louis Philippe. To those 
 who saw it in June, 1848, when filled with National Guards 
 taking a hurried nap on trusses of straw, with a mutilated 
 equestrian statue of Louis Philippe over the mantel-piece, the 
 contrast at present is magical. (1) This splendid hall, which is 
 used as a ball room, is 140 feet long by 35 broad, and receives 
 light from ten windows looking into the court of the Tuile- 
 ries. Its ceiling is supported by couples of engaged columns 
 fluted, with ivy leaves for cablings, now gorgeously gilt. 
 Over the mantel-piece is an equestrian portrait of the present 
 Emperor, by Muller ; the panels, corresponding to the windows 
 opposite, are filled with immense mirrors. Two colossal 
 chandeliers, of crystal and gilt bronze, presented to Louis Phi- 
 lippe in 1842 by the King of Holland, flank the entrance from 
 the antechamber, while at the opposite end is placed a silver 
 statue of Peace, chiselled by Chaudet, which was voted to 
 Napoleon I by the City of Paris after the peace of Amiens ; it 
 is flanked by two marble columns supporting antique busts. 
 The visitor now enters the Salle des Mar echaux, the splendour 
 of which can hardly be surpassed. It occupies the two upper 
 
 (1) After the 24th of February, 1848, a numerous party of 
 dmeutiers installed themselves in the palace with some loose 
 girls, made free with the ex-King’s wine-cellar and provisions, 
 and celebrated their orgies night and day in the most sump- 
 tuous apartments. The King and Queen’s bed-room was turned 
 into a dining-room, and, everything belonging to them was 
 made subservient to the will of those lords of the hour . They 
 were turned out by main force after the lapse of ten days. 
 
PALACE OF THE TUILERIES. 149 
 
 stories of the Pavilion de I’Horloge, and is crowned with a 
 lofty quadrangular ceiling, richly sculptured and painted, 
 ^ouiid the base of which runs a gallery, supported by a bold 
 projecting cornice all around, except facing the windows, 
 ^here four colossal caryatides, copied from those by Jean Gou- 
 jon in the Louvre, and gilt from head to foot, perform the of- 
 fice of supporters. The names of the great battles fought un- 
 der the first Empire are inscribed on the walls over this gallery, 
 fcelow, the busts of distinguished generals and naval com- 
 manders stand all around against the walls, while the follow- 
 ing portraits of Marshals of France adorn the panels : Berthier, 
 Prince de Neufchatel ; Joachim Murat ; Moncey, Due de 
 Conegliano ; Jourdan ; Soult ; Brune ; Lanues, Due de Monte- 
 bello ; Mortier, Due de Trevise; Ney, Prince de laMoscowa; 
 Davoust, Prince d’Eckmuhl; Kellerman, Due de Valmy; and 
 m^siere. Due d’Ystrie. The furniture and curtains are green 
 velvet and gold. It is used as a ball room on state occasions. 
 A door communicates with a small but elegant apartment, 
 opening into the gallery which runs round the top of the 
 Escalier d’Honneur. From the Salle dcs Marechaux the 
 visitor enters the Salon Blanc, formerly SaMe d’Attente, now 
 Ised as a card room. The decoration of the walls is, as usual, 
 gold on a white ground ; the furniture, green silk, damask, 
 ind gold. The carpets of this and the next three rooms are of 
 Gobelins manufacture, and have cost 1,000,000 fr. Next fol- 
 ows the Salon d’ Apollon, containing a fine painting, by Mi- 
 gnard, of Apollo and the Muses. The ceiling represents Apollo 
 ishering ia the day. From this we enter the Salle du Trdne, 
 
 » splendid apartment. The hangings are of dark red velvet of 
 Lyons manufacture, with palm leaves and wreaths wrought in 
 gold. The throne, facing the windows, is surmounted by a 
 lanopy of the same, with the letter N in small medallions ; 
 lit drapery depending from it is studded with bees embroi- 
 lered in gold. The chair stands on a plinth, accessible by 
 hree semi-circular steps, and on the velvet drapery behind it 
 s an escutcheon with the imperial eagle encompassed by a 
 vreath, surmounted by a helmet with the imperial crown, 
 .■■he sceptre and hand of justice form a cross intercepted by 
 he escutcheon. Next comes the Salon Louis XIV., the furni- 
 ure of which is red damask and gold. Over the mantelpiece 
 s a portrait of Anne of Austria, with Louis XIV. and the Duke 
 •f Orleans as children, by Mignard ; between the windows a 
 ull length portrait of Louis XIV. in his 70 th year ; and oppo- 
 ite, Louis XIV. presenting his grandson, Philip V., to the 
 rrandees of Spain. The last of this suite of state rooms is the 
 ialerio de Diane, being the dining-room, 176 feel long by 32 
 
150 first walk. 
 
 in breadth, a fine apartment of the time of Louis XIII. It has 
 six windows, the intervening spaces and the wall opposite 
 being filled with eight paintings by Mignard, representing my- 
 thological subjects. To the right of the entrance is a small 
 bronze equestrian statue of Louis XIV. standing on a pedestal, 
 and at the opposite end is a fine table of Florence mosaic 
 The curtains are of green damask. This dining-room is only 
 used on state occasions, when the guests assemble in the 
 Salle des Marechaux. Behind these rooms is a suite looking 
 into the garden, which is inhahited by the Emperor, and is 
 not shown to visitors. Another suite of rooms, consisting of 
 an ante-chamber and three square saloons, has been lately added 
 by the architect, M. Lefuel, by building over an open terrace 
 looking out upon the garden, to which access is obtained by a 
 new staircase, \Aith elegant bannisters cast in bronze, then 
 gilt and platinised by voltaic agency. Of the three saloons, 
 the first is sea-green, the second rose-coloured, and the third 
 blue. On these delicate colours suitable subjects have been 
 executed in grisaille, and other pictorial ornaments introduced,: 
 by MM. Chaplin and Dubulfe. The chimney-piece of the green i 
 saloon is of black marble, with delicate wreaths of gilt leavcsf, 
 on its architrave. That of the rose-coloured saloon, the mostf] 
 richly decorated of the three, is of lapis lazuli ; its jambs endi; 
 in reversed acanthus leaves, beautifully chiselled. A fee,, 
 though strictly forbidden, is usually given to the domestic! 
 that conducts the visitor. 
 
 Garden of the Tuilertes. — A street, called the rue des, 
 Tuileries, formerly ran between the palace and the garden ; 
 hut was suppressed in 1665, when Le Notre was entrusted| 
 by Louis XIV. with the care of laying out the latter. T\yo 
 parallel terraces form its northern and southern boundaries^ 
 running from the extreme pavilions of the palace. Its lengtli 
 is 2256 feel, and its width 990 feet. The southern terrace is] 
 the more elevated and wider of the two, and affords by far 
 the best view of the Seine and the palace, with which it is con- 
 nected by a subterranean passage. That on the north is knowr 
 as the Terrasse des Feuillants, so called from a convent tha 
 stood there before the revolution of 17 89. Near it was tin 
 Manege, or riding-school, where the National Assembly heb 
 its sittings. A handsome iron railing, with gilt spesarheads 
 separates it from the rue de Rivoli. The garden is; bisecte( 
 throughout its whole length by a wide avenue, extendini 
 from the palace to a gate giving access to the Place de laCon 
 coide (see p. 178), and called Porte du Pont-ioiirnaint, fror 
 a swing-bridge which existed there in 17 89. This avenue i 
 met at right angles by a spacious gravelled walk,, at a poin 
 
GARDEN OF THE TUILERIES. 151 
 
 occupied by a large circular basin. The portion of the 
 garden lying westward of this walk is open to the public at 
 all seasons ; that on the opposite side separated from the rest 
 by a sunken fence is the 
 
 Private Garden, which is only accessible to the puhlic 
 when the court is out of town. In 1832 Louis Philippe en- 
 closed a narrow slip of ground along the whole front of the 
 palace for a private garden, and this remained so until 1858, 
 
 I when the Emperor caused it to be enlarged to its present ex- 
 * tent. It is crossed by a broad walk running parallel to the 
 palace, and skirting the old private garden ; the rest is laid 
 out in walks bordered with shrubs and flowers. Two smaller 
 : basins and various statues, some being copies from the an- 
 : tique, others executed by good masters, complete its decora- 
 ;tion. Skirting the sunken fence we find, commencing 
 ! from the side of the rue de Rivoli, the celebrated antique 
 j gi'oup of Laocoon, cast in bronze ; Spartacus, by Foyatier ; 
 Theseus killing the Minotaur, l)y Ramey, jun. ; Themistocles, 
 by Lemaire ; the Rape of Orythia, by Marsy and Flamen ; 
 Time carrying away Truth ; Pericles, by Debay ; the Dying 
 Spartan, by Cortot; Phidias, by Pradier, all in marble ; and the 
 I Listening Slave, cast in bronze, by the Kellers (1668), a copy 
 !of the celebrated antique in the Gallery of Florence. Within 
 ' tlie garden , and in a line parallel to the palace, are Apollo 
 Belvidere and Diana with the Hart, in bronze ; Lucretia and 
 Collatinus between, in white marble ; Venus Pudica, and 
 Antinous, in bronze ; and, between them, diiieas bearing An- 
 chises and leading Ascanius, in marble. There are besides, 
 
 ; around the basins, four statues representing Venus and Sylvan 
 i Nymphs ; in front of the palace, two Shepherds, besides four 
 j Lions, and the Infant Hercules stifling two serpents, all in 
 white marble. The entrance to the private garden from 
 the quays is adorned with two sphynxes of white marble, 
 brought from Sebastopol. Several elegant marble vases are 
 interspersed throughout the garden. The 
 
 Public Garden, commencing from the large basin men- 
 tioned above, comprises two large flower gardens, followed by 
 I two groves of line chesnut trees, elms, planes, and limes, 
 j skirting the principal avenue and bordering on a large octa- 
 I gonal basin facing the Porte du Ponl-Tournant. This part 
 ; also is laid out in flower gardens ; the side favoured with a 
 I southern exposure, known by the name of La Pet He Provence, 
 
 I is in winter the favourite resort of children and elderly people 
 I of both sexes, who come here either for exercise or repose and 
 i warmth. Flights of steps and, rising paths lead up to the 
 terraces overlooking the Place de la Concorde; the southern 
 
FIRST WALK. 
 
 152 
 
 one, connected with the private garden, is not always open to 
 the public ; it contains a spacious orangery, and has bridges 
 over the two public passages opening upon the quays. The 
 northern terrace, occupied with embowered seats, and a newly- 
 built Tennis-court, and commanding an excellent view of the 
 Place de la Concorde and Champs Elysees (see p. 18 2). forms 
 part of the Terrasse des Feuillants, bordering on the Allee 
 des Grangers, so called from the orange trees which are placed 
 here in summer. It extends to, and partly skirts the Private 
 Garden, and is adorned on that side with a statue of Hercules 
 holding a Pigmy, by Bosio, cast in bronze by Carbonneau ; at 
 the opposite extremity with Hercules and the Lernian hydra. 
 This alley with the adjoining terrace is the most fashionable 
 and delightful promenade of Paris, both in summer and in 
 winter ; during the sunny hours of the latter, and in the cool 
 evenings of the former season, all the gayest of the capital 
 are to be found here, sitting on chairs, which are let out at 
 two and three sous a-piece, walking or conversing, or 
 listening to the bands of music that play here in summer. On 
 Sunday afternoons, tbe crowd, if not so select, is much more 
 numerous, and the alley of orange trees frequently forms a 
 compact mass, presenting every variety and colour of dress 
 which happen to be the fashion of the hour. 
 
 In each of the two groves is a hemicycle of white marble, 
 with a small enclosure in front, laid out as a garden, having 
 statues of Atalanta and Hippomenes at the corners, and 
 others representing Spring and Autumn in the centre. These 
 hemicycles, called Carres d’Atalante, were constructed in 
 1793 by the Convention after the designs of Robespierre. They 
 were intended as seats for the areopagus of old men who were 
 to preside over the floral games dedicated to youth. There is a 
 great deal of good sculpture in this part of the garden. The 
 piers of the western entrance are graced with two spirited 
 groups, brought hither from Marly : one of Mercury, the other 
 of Fame, on xviuged steeds, by Coysevox. At the corners of 
 the western terraces there are two colossal marble lions, copies 
 from the antique. On the same terraces on either side of the 
 entrance are the nine Muses, and Apollo ; and below, four mas- 
 terly groups iu marble, viz., from north to south, 1, the Tiber, 
 by Bourdot ; 2 . the Loire and the Loiret, by Vaucleve ; 3 , the Seine 
 and Marne, byCoustou; 4, the Nile, by Bourdot. On either side 
 of the central grove, on the opposite side of the basin, we remark 
 two statues of Bacchus, a Vestal l)y Legros, termini representing 
 the 4 Seasons, Hannibal, by Sloedtz, Scipio Africanus, by Cous- 
 lou, and Cornelia. In the southern grove is a copy in marble 
 of the well-known boar, of which llic Grecian original is 
 
GARDEN OE THE TUILERIES. I53 
 
 preserved in the Gallery of Florence, where another copy in 
 bronze by Tacca adorns the Mercato Nuovo. At the eastern 
 extremity of the groves are statues of the Diane d la Biche 
 the Capitoline Flora, Julius Caesar, and the Farnesian Hercules! 
 
 The walk which separates the private from the public gar! 
 den, forms a public passage from the rue de Rivoli to the 
 quay, through a gateway passing under the southern 
 terrace, and bridged over. Anotlier passage extends from the 
 entrance opposite the Rue de Castiglione to the new 
 
 Pont de Soi.ferino, an iron bridge of three arches, the piers 
 of which hear the names of the victories won in the last Italian 
 campaign; it is 492 feet long by C5 /a in width, and has cost 
 1,170,000 francs. (1) 
 
 The garden is open from 7 in the morning till dusk in win- 
 ter, and till 9 in summer. It is then cleared by beat of drum. 
 
 On leaving the garden by the quay, the visitor will find 
 to his left one of the entrances to the Place du Carrousel. 
 Before entering it, he should observe the immense length of the 
 
 Southern Gallery of the Louvre, which was com- 
 menced under Charles IX. by Ducerceau, built as far as 
 the central pavilion, called Pavilion Lesdiguieres, by Hen- 
 ry IV., and continued to the Tuileriesby Louis XIV. The 
 earlier or eastern portion, te.vminating at the above-mentioned 
 pavilion, partakes of the style of the Renaissance, with rus- 
 ticated Tuscan pilasters supporting a range of mezzanini, 
 above which are the windows of the celebrated gallery of 
 paintings. The whole of this portion is elaborately and most 
 beautifully scidptured. The western portion is now in course 
 of reconstruction. We may now enter the 
 
 Place du Carrousel, which derives its name from a great 
 tournament held by Louis XIV. in 1 CG 2 . The spacious Court 
 OF THE Tuileries, separated from the square by an elegant iron 
 railing with three entrances, two of which are adorned with 
 statues of Victory, Peace, History, and France, communicates 
 by arched gateways with the Rue de Rivoli on the north ( 2 ), 
 
 (1) A new street is to be opened in a line with the bridge, in- 
 sulating the Palace of the Legion of Honour (see p. 32 - 4 ). 
 
 (2) This court Avas principally formed by Napoleon I. Where 
 the iron rails stand there Avere roAVS of houses and sheds before 
 the revolution of i 789 ; and this circumstance materially facili- 
 tated the attack on tlie palace by the mob on August 10, 1792. 
 Napoleon used to revieAV his troops in this vast court. During 
 and for some lime after the insurrection of June, i 848 , as also 
 after the events of December, i 85 i, troops were stationed here, 
 and the court bore the appearance of a camp. The troops who 
 mount guard at the Tuileries are inspected here daily in fine 
 Aveather, at about 12 o’clock, with music. 
 
FIRST WALK. 
 
 UA 
 
 and the Qiiai du Louvre on the south (1). Before the cenltral 
 gate of the railing stands the 
 
 Triumphal Arch, erected by order of Napoleon in 18^06, 
 under the direction of Percier and Fontaine, at a costt of 
 1,400,000 fr. It is GO feet by 20 at the base, and 45 ' feet 
 high, and consists of a central and two smaller lateral arclhes, 
 intersected by transversal arches of equal height. Eight Co- 
 rinthian columns of red Languedoc marble, with bases . and 
 capitals of bronze, adorned with eagles, support the enttab- 
 lature. The attic is surmounted by a figure of Victory iin a 
 triumphal car and four bronze horses, modelled by Bosio firora 
 the original, brought from the Piazza of St. Mark at Vennee, 
 but restored by the Allies in 1 8 1 5 . 'Over each column, stantds a 
 marble figure of a soldier of Napoleon’s army, in the uniformi of 
 the several corps, and over each of the smaller archways is a 
 marble bas-relief representing memorable events of the ccam- 
 paign of 1805. (2) The following inscriptions sufticierntly 
 
 explain the subjects; Fronting tbe Louvre, 
 
 “ L’iinnde fran 5 aise, emluirquee a Boulogne, menagait I'AnglettciTC. 
 Une troisienic coalition delate sui’ le continent. Lcs Fi’angais volemt de 
 I'Ocdan au Danube. La Bavi'crc est delivree ; Vavme'e autvichienne pi iison- 
 niere a Ulin, Napoldon entne clans Vienne. 11 tiiomplie a Austevlitz." ' 
 
 On the northern side, 
 
 “iMaitre des Etats de son ennemi, Napoleon lcs lui rend. 11 signne la 
 paix le 25 ddeembre 1805, dans la capitale de la llongrie, occupee*. par 
 son armde victoiieuse.” 
 
 Fronting the Tuileries, 
 
 “ A la voix du vainqueur d’Austerlitz, I’empire d’Alleinagne tomboe ; la 
 Confeddration du HUin commence ; les royauraes de Bavicre et de IWur- 
 temberg sont creds ; Venise est rdunie a la couronne de fer ; ITtalide en- 
 tifere se range sous les lois de son libdrateur.” 
 
 On the southern side, 
 
 “ llonncur a la Grande Armde, victorieuse a Austerlitz, cn Moravi ie, le 
 
 ddeembre 1805, jour anniversaire du couronnement de Napoldon.” 
 
 The southern gallery of the Louvre, outside the Courrt of 
 the Tuileries, viewed from this side, presents a series of seg- 
 mental and triangular pediments, resting on Corinthian pilastters, 
 and charged with various devices ; but the new portion Itying 
 within the C.ourt differs from it, and projects consideraibly. 
 The same system is to be adopted on tbe northern side, Ibuilt 
 by Napoleon I. as far as the I'avillon de Rohan, which iss op- 
 posite to, and the counterpart of, the Painllon Lcsdiguiieres. 
 The Place du Carrousel has four principal issues, leadinf." re- 
 spectively to the Hue de Richelieu and the Rue de I'lilchellle on 
 
 (1) It Avas at tlic inner corner of tliis entrance tliat Alilliaud 
 posted hiinseJf on June 25, 1 83G, to fire at Louis Pliilippe. 
 
 (2) During the Restoration tiiese bas-reliefs were c.xeliauiged 
 for subjects taken from the campaign of tbe Duke d’AogouilSme 
 in Spain, is23. The former were, however, restored in isiso. 
 
;ig ©IF ‘iTiEciE i \ynEW ekcobj ■’/o-je [bq^eir 
 
SOUTHERN GALLERY OF THE LOUVRE. 155 
 
 the northern side, and to the quays on the other. At the 
 two pavilions above mentioned commence the buildings of the 
 
 New Louvre. — It had often been m contemplation to purge 
 the space l.etween the Tuileries and the Old Louvre of the 
 mean-looking houses and unseemly sheds, many of which 
 were still visible as late as 1850. The elder Napoleon was 
 the first to grapple with the abomination, by making room for 
 the northern gallery; and the architect Fontaine prepared 
 designs for the union of the two palaces. Political events 
 prevented the execution of this splendid project under the 
 First Empire and the reign of Louis Philippe. In 1848, the 
 last document signed by the Provisional Government was a 
 decree for the completion of the Louvre, and new plans were 
 presented to the Legislative Assembly in 1849, by MINI. Yis- 
 conti and Trelat, but without success. Up to that time, 
 upwards of fifty different plans had been presented by various 
 eminent architects, whose chief aim was to conceal the defect 
 of parallelism existing between the two palaces. At length, 
 in 18 52, the present Emperor, then President of the Republic, 
 decreed a sum of 2 5,000,000fr. for the purpose. The first 
 stone of the new edifices was laid on the 25th of July of 
 that year, and the works commenced by M. Yisconti, who, 
 on his death, in 1853, was succeeded by M. Lefuel. The 
 rapid completion of this and other vast public works, is one 
 of the most remarkable facts of modern times. 
 
 The general plan of the New Louvre comprises two vast 
 lateral piles of buildings, projecting at right angles from the 
 southern and northern galleries respectively, so as to form the 
 eastern boundary of the Place du Carrousel ; then turning into 
 the I 'lace Napoleon III., where they present on each side a 
 frontage of 180 metres, interrupted by three sumptuous pavi- 
 lions. (1) The space between the two corner pavilions is 125 
 metres. The defect of parallelism above alluded to is effectu- 
 ally masked by two octagonal gardens (2) enclosed with 
 elegant iron railings, occupying the central space, much in the 
 style of the London squares. These gardens are to be adorned 
 with equestrian statues of Louis XIV. and Napoleon I The 
 old galleries and the pavilions are connected by spacious ar- 
 caded porticos, elaborately sculptured, fronted with Corin- 
 thian columns, closed with balustrades, and surmounted by 
 terraces on a level with the first story, wdiich are decorated 
 with statues of the most illustrious men of France by 53 
 
 (1) Tliey are named us follows : Northern side. Pavilions Tur- 
 got, Richelieu, Colbert; southern, MolUen, Uenon, Uaru. 
 
 (2) Here stood the Hotel de Rambouillet, and fdher houses cf 
 the nobility which flourished under Louis XIY.; and on the 
 
FIRST WALK. 
 
 166 
 
 of the best French artists (1). The pavilions are fronted with 
 coupled Corinthian columns supporting Composite ones, sur- 
 mounted by groups of genii. The front of the Old Louvre 
 has been made to harmonize with the new wings ; its central 
 pavilion called the Pardllon de I’Horloge, now bears the 
 name of Sully. Its gateway is flanked with two Corinthian 
 columns of red marble. The northern side hears the follow- 
 ing inscriptions; — 
 
 “ 1541. Franjois I. commence le Louvre. 
 
 1564. Catliei'ine de Mddicis commence les Tuileries.” 
 
 On the southern we see : 
 
 “1852 — 1857. Napoldon III. rdunit les Tuileries au Louvre.” 
 
 All the pediments of these pavilions are enriched with the most 
 complicated allegorical sculpture, and supported by caryatides. 
 The triangular pediments of the central pavilions contain the 
 following subjects in alto-rilievo ; Pavilion Denon, Napoleon 
 III., surrounded by Agriculture, Industry, Commerce, and the 
 Fine Arts ; Pavilion Richelieu ; France distributing crowns to 
 the most worthy of her children ; Pavilion Sully : Napoleon 
 1. crowned by Glory and the Arts. The second stories of the 
 intermediate buildings are plain ; the roofs between the pavi- 
 lions are fronted with balustrades adorned with groups of 
 genii, emblematical of Agriculture, Science, War, the Seasons, 
 
 site of the southern building was the church of St. Thomas 
 du Louvre, built in 1 1 87 by Robert, Count of Dreux. On the 1 5 th 
 of October, 1739, the roof suddenly gave way during divine ser- 
 vice, causing great loss of life. It was subsequently ceded to the 
 Protestants, who afterwards exchanged it for the Oratoire. 
 
 ( 1 ) The following is a list of them in the order in which they stand, 
 commencing from the Pavilion de Rohan : Lafontaine, B. Pascal, 
 Mdzeray, Molifei’e, Boileau, F^n^lon, Larochefoucault, and P. Cor- 
 neille. On the north side of the Place Napoleon 111., ist section ; 
 Gr(5goire de Tours, Rabelais, Malherbes, AbaiJard, Colbert, Ma- 
 zarin, Buffon, Froissart, J. J. Rousseau, and Montesquieu. - 2 d 
 sect. : Mathieu Mold, Turgot, St. Bernard, Labruydre, Suger, De 
 Thou, Bourdaloue, Racine, Voltaire, and Bossuet. From the 
 Pavilion Colbert to Die Pavilion Sully : Condorcet, Denis Papin, 
 Sully, Vauban, Lavoisier, Lalande, Louvois, St. Simon, Joinvitle, 
 Fiddlier, Ph. de Cominines, Aniyot, Mignard, Massillon, Ducer.^ 
 ceau. From the PavillonSully to thePavillon Daru ; Cl. Lorrain, 
 Grdtry, Regnard, Jacques Coeur, Marigny, A. Chenier, Keller, 
 Coysevox, J. Cousin, Lenotre, Clodion, G. Pilon, Gabriel, J. Le- 
 pautre. South wing from the Louvre, ist sect.: L’Hopilal, Le- 
 mercier, Descartes, A. Pard, Richelieu, Montaigne, Houdon, Du- 
 pdrac, J. de Brosse, Cassini ; 2 d sect. : Daguesseau, Mansart, 
 Poussin, Audran, J. Sarrazin, Coustou, Lesueur, C. Perrault, Pli. 
 de Champagne, and Puget. On the Carrousel, from the Pavilion 
 Mollicn; Pierre Lescot, Bullant, Lebrun, Chanibichc, Bruuul, 
 Delorme, B. de Palissy, and Rigault, 
 
THE NEW LOUVRE. 157 
 
 etc. ( 1 ). The interior construction is remarkable for its solidity 
 and safety from fire, all the roofing and flooring resting upon 
 iron framework. Each of the two wings we have described 
 contains two courts. Those of the southern wing are entered 
 from the quay, those of the other from the Rue de Rivoli. 
 The first story of the building which intervenes between the 
 two courts of the latter contains Library of the Louvre, (see 
 
 p. 17 5.) The ground floor of the southern wing contains tlie 
 
 Imperial Stables. — The buildings, which are in the 
 Italian style, comprise the Cour Caulaincourt and the Cour 
 Visconti, both accessible from the quay through handsomely 
 carved oaken gates. In the former there is, to the left the 
 first stable, divided into 14 stalls for saddle horses. Adjoin- 
 ing, is a second containing ten boxes, and a place for washing. 
 Gas- lamps are suspended from the ceiling, and cocks supply 
 the water required for use. The stalls are of richly carved 
 oak, the racks of ornamental bronze, and the chains of steel. 
 The gallery after the washing place is 300 feet long by 14 
 wide. It has a row of stalls on either side, and accom- 
 modates 82 horses. The ground-floor of the two other sides 
 of the parallelogram comprises coach-houses, harness-rooms, 
 etc. In the former there are 12 ordinary state carriages, 
 and on the west side 50 of different kinds (2). On the first 
 floor is a riding-school, to which the horses ascend by a gentle 
 slope. For tickets to visit the stables, apply to M. le General 
 Fleury, Premier Ecuyer deS. M. I'Empereur, at theTuileries. 
 
 On the first story of the transversal building separating the 
 two courts is the Salle des Etats, for the reception of the great 
 bodies of the State ; it communicates with the picture gallery 
 
 ( 1 ) The sculptures have required the combined efforts of 53 
 artists. The number of subjects executed is 261 ; the expense, 
 1,6/(3,400 fr. The total cost amounts to 62 , 500,000 fr. Thespace 
 covered and enclosed by the new buildings is 60,000 metres, 
 and, with the Tuileries and old Louvre, nearly 60 acres English. 
 
 ( 2 ) The most elegant is the state carriage. The body is almost 
 entirety of plate glass ; it is lined with white satin covered 
 with giold bees, and the straps and cords are of gold lace. The 
 border round the roof of the carriage is bronze finely chased and 
 gilt, and forms ciphers and crowns mixed with laurel and oak 
 leaves ; a gilt eagle is at each corner. This carriage cost 90,000 
 fr. Tine Imperial stud altogether is composed of from 300 to 320 
 horses — saddle, carriage, and post horses; and they are now 
 distribuit«d at the Louvre, at the Imperial stables on the Quai 
 d’Orsay (see p. 3321, in the rue de Monceaux, and at St. Cloud. 
 The cairriages, 180 in number, are kept at the Louvre and Quai 
 d’Orsay. Other state carriages are at Trianon, (see pp. 332 and 
 577.) TEie number of coachmen and grooms exceeds 300. 
 
1 58 first walk. 
 
 (seep. 105). It was here that the ceremony of inaugurating the 
 New Louvre took place, on the 14th Aug., 1857, five years 
 after the commencement of the work, fhe rest contains 
 rooms for the domestics, barracks for the Cent Gardes, etc. 
 All the chimney- flues are of iron, and imbedded in concrete. 
 
 At a distance of about 300 feet measured diagonally from 
 the Pavilion de Rohan, Cadoudal’s infernal machine, intended 
 to destroy Napoleon I., on his way to the opera, then situated 
 in the Place Richelieu, exploded Dec. 24, 1800. (1) 
 
 On leaving the Place du Carrousel through one of the nor- 
 thern issues, the visitor will obtain a view of the whole extent 
 of the old and new edifices, and remark the tasteful and 
 well-studied transition which each section presents from the 
 most simple to the most elaborate style of architecture. The 
 Pavilion de Rohan, with its 8 elegant niches and statues (2), and 
 the front of the Now Louvre will especially claim his attention. 
 
 A few steps eastward brings the visitor to 
 
 The Old Louvre. — A castle which existed on the site of this 
 palace is said to have been used as a hunting-seat byDagohert, 
 the woods then extending over the actual site of northern Paris 
 down to the water’s edge, Philip Augustus, in 1200, formed 
 it into a stronghold, ancl used it as a state prison. (3) It was 
 not enclosed within the walls of Paris until 1307 and 1383. 
 Charles V. made many additions to the castle ; the Royal Li- 
 brary was kept there ; also the various officers of state and 
 foreign princes visiting Paris were lodged in it. Francis I. began 
 the present building in 1528, and erected the southern half 
 of the western side of the court, as it now exists, after the de- 
 signs of Pierre Lescot. His son Henry II. continued and extended 
 this plan, completing the whole of the western front, now 
 called the Vieux Louvre and the wing containing the Ga~ 
 lerie d’ Apollon. The sculptures were entrusted to the di- 
 
 (1) The event occurred in the rue St. Nicaise, a street which 
 no longer exists, hut wliicli extended into tlie jiresent Place du 
 Carrousel. The house called the Hotel de Mantes, close to Svhich 
 the infernal machine had been placed, was pulled down in 1851. 
 
 ( 2 ) Tliose of Soult, Desaix, Ney, and Marceau, to the right; and 
 of Hoclte, Massena, Lannes, and Kleber, to the left. 
 
 (3) The foundations of this caslle were brought to light again 
 in i860 hy order of the Municipality, in order to elucidate some 
 obscure historical points. The twin lowers flanlung the prin- 
 cipal entrance stood near the centre of Hie present court, at 
 the corner of the soutli-weslern cpiadrangle. Tlie masonry of 
 the foundations was of excellent execution and well preserved, 
 though scarcely a foot below the surface. It was also ascer- 
 tained that they extended to the Seine in the direction of the 
 Pont des Arts, and likewise parallel to the rivter, passing under 
 the Tour de I'Horlogc. 
 
THE OLD LOUVUE. lr)'j 
 
 rection of Jean Goujon, and other great artists of the day. 
 Henry IV. made some additions to this part of the building at 
 the time of commencing the Long Gallery ; and during the reign 
 of Louis XIII. the central pavilion of the western side was 
 added to the erections of Lescot by Lemercier, Avho also 
 built all the lower part of the northern front. Louis XIV., at 
 the suggestion of Colbert, decided upon completing this palace, 
 and a public competition of architects was opened to furnish 
 designs for the new building. A physician, Claude Perrault, 
 was the successful competitor, but, some distrust of his abilities 
 arising at court, Bernini, who constructed the porticos in front 
 of St. Peter’s at Rome, was sent for from Italy, and his plans 
 were adopted. Louis XIV. laid the first stone of the east- 
 ern front : but for some reason Bernini was soon sent 
 back to Italy, loaded with presents and a pension, while Per- 
 rault, to the honour of France and of Colbert, was allowed in 
 1600 to carry his original design into execution. He built the 
 eastern front, and that towards the river ; but the caprice of 
 the King put a stop to the works, and diverted the treasure 
 of the country to the building of Versailles. Until 1802 
 the greater part of the Louvre remained without a roof, 
 and the whole seemed to be destined to fall into ruin. 
 Napoleon, however, resumed the works, and under him 
 the Louvre was finished, and the surrounding streets and 
 places cleared. Its internal arrangements were principally 
 effected by Charles X. and Louis Philippe. Charles IX. inhabited 
 the old Louvre, and, as is well knov/n, fired from its windows 
 looking towards the quay and river on the victims of the St. 
 Barthelemy. (i) Henry HI., Henry IV., and Louis XIII. also 
 resided here, as well as the unfortunate English queen, Hen- 
 rietta, widow of Charles I. Louis XV., during part of his mi- 
 nority, inhabited the Louvre ; but since then it has been devoted 
 to the reception of the various museums of the line arts, and 
 has occasionally been used for great ceremonies of state. (2) 
 The eastern front of the Louvre is one of the finest pieces of 
 architecture of any age. The grand colonnade is composed of 
 28 coupled Corinthian columns, fronting a wide gallery. The 
 basement story affords an admirable contrast by its simplicity ; 
 and the projecting masses in the centre, and at either end of the 
 
 (1) A window, with a balcony on ilie first floor, is often shown 
 as that from which he fired ; hutthis must he a mistalce, as that 
 part of the building was not constructed till Jong after the year 
 1572 , the date of that most perfidious massacre. 
 
 (2) It was allacliod by the people, July 28 and 29, 1850, 
 and obstinately defended by the Swiss guards. The dead were 
 buried in front of the eastern facade, but afterwards removed 
 to the Column ofJuIy. 
 
i 60 FIRST WALK. 
 
 facade, fronted with pilasters, and pierced With large windows, 
 complete the grand features of this side. The central mass of 
 the building, forming the gateway, is crowned bv a pediment, 
 the raking cornices of which are each of a single piece, 52 feet 
 in length and 3 in thickness. This pediment contains a bas- 
 relief, executed by Lemot in 1811; and over the grand door- 
 way is another by Cartellier, of the same date. The gates 
 themselves, made by order of Napoleon, are of magnificently- 
 worked bronze. (1) The southern front, also the woiis of 
 Claude Perrault, though not so bold, is very line. It is deco- 
 rated with forty Corinthian pilasters, and, like the eastern, has 
 a richly-adorned pediment over the central compartment. 
 The northern front consists of a central and two lateral pa- 
 vilions projecting from the main body with few but tasteful 
 ornaments. In the court, the general features of the ground 
 floor are a range of circular arcades, separated by Corinthian 
 pilasters, and under each arch is a lofty window. ]\lost of the 
 intermediate niches are now adorned with marble statues by 
 modern masters, representing Sappho, Circe, Sculpture, the 
 Benaissance, Abundance, Glory, etc. The design of the first 
 story consists of windows richly dressed, separated by Compo- 
 site pilasters. The upper story of the western front has the 
 windows richly enchased with sculptured groups, trophies, etc. 
 The Pavilion de Sully, is surmounted by a quadrangular 
 dome, resting upon colossal caryatides by Sirrazin. The 
 sculptures of the wings are hy Paolo Poncio and Jean Goujon ; 
 those of the northern pediments are modern. The central 
 gateways were sculptured hy Lesueur, Ramey, and Coustou. 
 Perrault formed the designs of these three sides, each of which 
 is 408 feet, the whole forming a perfect square. 
 
 The court of the Louvre is one of the finest in Europe with 
 respect to decoration and proportion. It is now laid out in 
 bitumen bordered with beds of ivy and shrubs, surrounded 
 with a low railing, and lighted hy 24 bronze gas lamps. (2) 
 
 A small garden on the south-western side is called the 
 Garden of the Infanta, from the Spanish Princess who came 
 into France, in 1721, to marry Louis XV. The wall of the 
 
 ( 1 ) The dimensions of this front are length, 5’5 feet; height, 
 
 85 feet; width of central comi)artment, 88 feet; width of ex- 
 treme compartments, 75 feet; height ofbasement story, 35 feet; 
 height of columns, lo diameters and a half, or 38 feet nearly. 
 The entablature takes up nearly lo feet of the entire height. 
 
 ( 2 ) An equestrian statue of the Duke of Orleans stood here 
 before the revolution of i848. It wasthen removed to Versailles, 
 and on the empty pedestal were written the following words:— 
 
 “ AuxCitoyens de Paris morts pour la liberty, la I\6publiqi:e reconnaissanle, 
 23, 24 Fevrier 1 848.” 
 
THE OLD LOUVEE. 161 
 
 Galerie d’ Apollon which overlooks it, has been sculptured hy 
 M. Cavelier. Similar gardens run all round the palace, ending 
 at the new wing facing the rue de Rivoli, and are public. 
 
 Interior. — ^Almost all the interior of this palace is devoted to 
 the museums collectively known under the name of Musees 
 Imperiaux, for which it is so celebrated. The description of 
 the various galleries will be found in the order in which they 
 occur to a visitor making the circuit of the palace. Owing, 
 however, to the improvements now in progress, some slight 
 variation in the order may occasionally take place. 
 
 The museums are entered at a door under the gateway of 
 the Pavilion de I’Horloge. On the ground-floor is the 
 
 Musee des Antiques. This museum commences with the 
 Salle des Caryatides, a splendid hall, occupying the whole 
 ground floor of the southern half of the Vieux Louvre. It 
 derives its name from four colossal caryatides, by Jean Gou- 
 jon, supporting a gallery, at its northern end ; they are reckoned 
 among the chefs-d’oeuvre of that master, and copies of them are 
 to be seen in the Salle des Marechaux at the Tuileries ( see 
 p. 148.) Above the gallery is the copy of a bas-relief by Ben- 
 venuto Cellini, originally sculptured for a fountain at Fon- 
 tainebleau, and representing Diana (see p. 174.) At the 
 further end of the hall stands the Cupid and the Centaur, a 
 well known antique. Next follows a suite of apartments 
 consisting of two distinct parallel series, being part of the old 
 pile of the Louvre as it e}dsted in the time of Charles V., from 
 1364 to 1380, and when inhabited by his consort, Jeanne de 
 Bourbon. The walls areincrusted with rich marbles. At the 
 farthest end, before a colossal statue of Melpomene, is a fine 
 mosaic pavement in compartments, the central one antique, 
 representing Victory, the others modern, representing the 
 Nile, the Po, the Danube, and the Dnieper. Close by, in 
 the parallel gallery to the left, is the celebrated Femis of Milo. 
 To the right of this suite is the Salle de Diane : (I) the 
 ceiling and tympans of the arches are painted with subjects 
 relating to Diana, Next follows the Rotunda, the ceiling of 
 which represents Prometheus giving life to man by the aid 
 of the heavenly fire. The adjoining rooms were once occu- 
 pied by Anne of Austria. The fresco paintings, by Meynier, 
 Mauzaisse, and Barthelemy, which adorn their highly de- 
 corated ceilings, represent : 1st, Justinian delivering his code 
 of laws to Rome ; 2dly, subjects relating to Apollo and Diana ; 
 3dly, Minerva displaying the olive-branch as the fruit of Victory ; 
 4thly, various passages of the early history of Rome j Sthly, 
 allegorical paintings of various virtues. 
 
 (i) These rooms and galleries are now provisionally closed. 
 
 11 
 
FIRST WALK. 
 
 162 
 
 To view the remaining antiques, the visitor must now 
 leave this museum l)y the same entrance, and go to the 
 Pavilion Denon, which he will find on the Place Napoleon III. 
 to his left. Here the bust of Caracalla found at Drama, near 
 Philippi, the Venus Victrix, the Lycian Apollo, Bacchus, and 
 a large number of other valuable antiques wilt be found 
 arranged in the vestibule and gallery to the rigid, that to the 
 left containing a full-size galvanoplastic reproduction, in six 
 parts, of the bas-reliefs on Trajan’s column at Rome. 
 
 This great collection of antiques dates from 1797, and in 
 1803 was opened to the public under the title of the Muse'e 
 Napoleon; it then contained, like the gallery of paint- 
 ings, all the richest spoils of Italy, but which were res- 
 tored in 1815 by the allies to their original owners. The pre- 
 sent collection consists of 240 statues; 230 busts; 215 bas- 
 reliefs; and 235 vases, altars, &c.; in all 920 objects. (1) 
 Returning to the Pavillion de I’llorloge, and mounting the 
 stairs, we find to our left, in the passage, the entrance to the 
 Salle des Bronzes, once the Chapel of Henry IV., and now 
 adorned with a magnificent pair of gates of wrought iron, 
 brought from the Chateau de Maisons. This spacious hall 
 now contains a portion of the Collection Campana, purchased 
 from the Papal Government, and now arranged in various 
 parts of the Louvre, under the name of Musce Napoleon III. 
 It comprises 11,835 articles, of which the metal portion only, 
 of Greek and Roman origin, is displayed here, together with 
 various Roman antiquities found at Notre-Dame d’Alencon, 
 near Brissac (Maine tl Loire). Two lateral presses contain 
 metal vessels, chandeliers, statuettes, knives and tvvo- 
 pronged forks, and swords, helmets and other piecesof armour, 
 spear-heads, &c. The presses along the walls contain other 
 articles of the same nature, besides an oval bell, a Roman 
 steelyard, lamps, &c. Colossal busts and statues, mostly of 
 bronze, are arranged round the room. But the most inte- 
 resting is the central stand, containing jewels, diadems, and 
 necklaces, chiefly of Etruscan manufacture, though some are 
 Greek or Roman. The perfection to which the soldering of 
 the precious metals had been brought by the Etruscans have 
 attracted the attention of the best goldsmiths of Paris. 
 
 On leaving this, a door to our right gives access to the 
 Salle des Seances, a vast saloon of Corinthian architecture, 
 with a gallery running all round, and roofed with dulled 
 
 (i) Complete catalogues of all the museums of the Louvre 
 may be had on the spot. The produce of their sale amounls 
 to upwards of 200,000 fr. ; and more than 100,000 fr. are fallen 
 at the door for depositing canes and umbrellas. 
 
MUSEUMS OF THE LOUVrE. 1G3* 
 
 glass. It is sumptuously gilt, and now contains a portion of 
 the Musee Napoleon III., consisting of Etruscan bas-reliefs, 
 vases, and sarcophagi. Adjoining it, is tlie 
 Salle Henry II. , the ceiling of which, richly embossed, is 
 painted by Blondel in three compartments. The central one 
 represents Jupiter pronouncing judgment on the relative ad- 
 vantages of the creations of Neptune and Minerva ; the other 
 two compartments are allegorical of Commerce and War. The 
 r Musee Napoleon III. is continued here. Next to this is the 
 Salle des Sept Cheminees (1). The ceiling is beautifully 
 decorated with gilt arabesques on a white ground , and colossal 
 genii in stucco ; ten medallions contain the busts of Gros, 
 David, Girodet, Gerard, Guerin, Percier, Prudhon, Chaudet, Ge- 
 ricault,and Granet, whose masterpieces are in this room. 
 
 A door to the right on entering opens into the 
 Salle des Bijoux, in which we find another and richer sec- 
 tion of the most valuable portion of the Garapana collection, 
 viz., the Etruscan, Roman, and Greek jewelry, a considerable 
 proportion of which has been already noticed in speaking of 
 the Salle des Bronzes. Some specimens are of admirable exe- 
 cution. Ceiling, by Mauzaisse : Time pointing to the ruins 
 caused by his progress. Next to this is the 
 Salle Ronde, containing a fme mosaic pavement and exqui- 
 sitely sculptured white marble vase. The ceiling, painted by 
 Couder and Stouf, represents, in the central compartment, the 
 fall of Icarus; in the four lateral compartments respectively. 
 Hercules suffocating Antaeus ; diolus mastering the Winds ; 
 Vulcan shewing Thetis the arms made for Achilles; and, lastly 
 Achilles inv oking the aid of the Gods against the Scamander 
 and Simois. A pair of beautiful gates of wrought steel, 
 transported hither from the palace of Maisons, open into the 
 Galerie d' Apollon. — This was commenced under Charles IX., 
 and completed under Henry IV. by Ghambiche, Fournier and 
 Plain. It was almost completely destroyed by fire on the 
 6th of February icci ; but was rebuilt that very year, the 
 
 ornamental part being entrusted to the hands of Errard, and 
 
 the paintings of the ceiling to Lebrun. The latter was after- 
 wards, however, appointed to direct the whole. Louis XIV. 
 having, in the interval, turned both his attention and his trea- 
 sures to the palace of Versailles, the Galerie d’ Apollon was 
 forgotten, and during the following century divided into apart- 
 jments, where the Royal Academies, and especially that of 
 
 (i) It was here Henry IV. died, after being stabl)ed by Ba- 
 
 Ivaillac. At that time it was composed of several rooms, one 
 
 [of which is marked in the old plans of the nalace with the words : 
 Chambre oft mourut Henry IV. 
 
164 FIRST Walk. 
 
 Sculpture and Painting, held their sittings. In 1747 and 1748 
 tlie paintings of several living artists were exhibited there ; in 
 17 56 the gallery had become the studio of Vanloo ; and in 1 7 8 7 
 it became a picture-gallery. In 1826 it was found necessary 
 to reconstruct the ceiling ; hut it was not until the 5th 
 of June 1851, that this saloon was solemnly re-opened to 
 the public, under the auspices of the Emperor, then President 
 of the Republic. The Gallery is 184 feet in length and 2 8 feet in 
 breadth; it has 12 windows looking upon the Jardin de ITn- 
 fante, and a balcony commanding a beautiful view of the 
 Seine. Opposite each window is a door for the sake of sym- 
 metry; only the last towards the Seine is intended for use, and 
 gives access to the Salon Carre. The panels of these doors 
 are charged with the attributes of the Arts and Sciences, Navi- 
 gation, etc. ; on the walls opposite the windows are seen in 
 Gobelins tapestry, the portraits of Sarrazin, G. Pilon, M. 
 Anguier, Duperac, Lebrun, J. Goujon, Lemcrcier, Romanelli, 
 LenStre, and J. Bullant ; between the windows, those of P, 
 Lescot, Ducerceau, Poussin, Coysevox, Coustou, Ph. Delorme, 
 Mignard, &c., artists who at various periods contri- 
 buted to the construction and decoration of the Louvre. Be- 
 tween the central windows we see medallions with portraits 
 of Philippe Auguste and Francis I. The windows are 
 crowned with other allegorical figures, arabesques and 
 escutcheons. The walls are profusely gilt, and the vaulted 
 ceiling rests upon a frieze adorned with L’s and fleurs de lys. 
 It represents, at its northern extremity, the Triumph of the 
 Earth, by Gui chard, after the designs left by Lebrun ; and 
 at the other, nearest the Seine, the Triumph of the Waters 
 or of Amphitrite, by Lebrun bimself. The other paintings 
 of the vault are, beginning from the latter, as follows ; 
 Aurora on her car, in an octagonal compartment, painted by 
 Lebrun, and re-painted by Muller ; Castor, or the Morning-Star, 
 in an oval compartment, painted in 1781 by Rcnou ; adjoining 
 it, are two lateral compartments i*epresenting Autumn, by 
 Taraval (17 69) and Summer, by Durameau (1774). The great 
 central compartment contains the Triumph of Apollo, by Eu- 
 gene Delacroix. Next comes Evening, situated between Spring, 
 by Callet, and Winter, by Lagrenee junior. The last octa- 
 gonal compartment represents Night. These compartments 
 are interspersed with appropriate emblems and arabesques ; 
 the lower part of the ceiling is adorned with medallions re- 
 presenting the months, and with stuccos of the Muses, the signs 
 of the Zodiac, flowers, etc., executed under the direction of 
 Lebrun, by Girardon, Regnauldin, and the brothers Marsy. 
 This splendid gallery now contains a rare and costly collection 
 
MUSEUMS OF THE LOUVUE. 1(55 
 
 of enamels of Bernard de Palissy, vases of agate, jasper, and 
 other precious stones, curious articles of Japanese manufacture, 
 jewels, ficc., arranged in three magnificent glass stands on ta- 
 bles, beautifully carved, of tbe time of Louis XIV., as the escut- 
 cheons with flmrs do lys, and the motto, Nec pluribiis hnpar, 
 denote. There are other stands along the wall and opposite. 
 
 A door to the right opens into the 
 
 Salon Carre, the ceiling of which is white and gold, with 
 caryatides, and genii representing the Arts ; the names of the 
 most celebrated artists are inscribed on the frieze. The choicest 
 specimens of the treasures for which the Louvre is so cele- 
 brated, are placed here, among which are the Feast of Cana, 
 i and Mary anointing the feet of Jesus, both by Paolo Veronese, 
 
 ! Charles 1 of England by Vandyck, and the Conception by 
 j Murillo, bought in 1852, at the sale of Marshal Soult’s gai- 
 ! lery, for the sum of 615,300 fr. 
 
 i The Musee des Tableaux des Ecoles Italiennes, Flamanden 
 et FranQaises occupies the Long Gallery, the exterior of which 
 has already been described at page 154. It was 1322 feet in 
 length, and 42 in width ; but owing to the demolitions in pro- 
 gress, it has provisionally lost two-thirds of its length. The 
 walls are encrusted with red marble to the height of about 
 three feet, the rest of their surface is entirely covered with 
 pictures, comprising three schools, viz. ; the French school, 
 700 ; the Flemish and German, 620 ; the Italian and Spanish, 
 585. The further end is exclusively occupied by the 
 Galerie de Rubens, a precious collection of some of the most 
 admired works of that great artist. These master-pieces 
 have now undergone a thorough restoration, and been 
 re-canvassed. None but the works of deceased masters are 
 admitted into this gallery, \vhich was chiefly formed by Na- 
 poleon, and enriched with the master-pieces of Europe ; the 
 greater part were returned ip 1815, but even now this gallery 
 is one of the finest in the world. For the convenience of the 
 public, lists of the pai ters/ names whose works are nearest 
 at hand, and indications of their subjects, are affixed to the 
 walls at proper intervals. From the Galerie de Rubens a 
 door to the right opens into four rooms, twm of which consti- 
 tute the Galerie Lesueur, and exclusively contain works of 
 that master ; in the fourth we find the celebrated sea-ports of 
 Joseph Vernet. Hence a passage leads to a large hall filled 
 with master-pieces of the French Schools of the 18th and 19th 
 ■ centuries. We now enter the 
 
 Salon Denon, a splendid and lofty hall containing four 
 large pictures by Lebrun. It is surmounted by a dome, gor- 
 geously gilt aiid decoi-fited with sculpture and paintings by 
 
FIRST WALK. 
 
 ICC 
 
 Muller, the four principal of which represent Louis IX., 
 Francis I., Louis XIV., and Napoleon I., each surrounded hy 
 the eminent men of his time, and fjiving directions for the 
 execution of public works. The initials of these four Princes 
 may he seen on gilt scrolls in the corners. A gallery resting 
 on a rich cornice runs all round this hall, just beneath the 
 large arched windows hy whieh it is lit. 
 
 The French School is continued in the following room, 
 from which a passage leads to another, containing the 
 choicest specimens of some Italian masters ; and thence we 
 return to the Long Gallery, from the middle of which we may 
 occasionally, through the curtains which often conceal it 
 from view, obtain a glimpse of the 
 
 Salle des Etats, opening into the Salon Denon. It is a 
 hall 42 metres long, 21 wide, and 16 high. It is lighted by 
 three rows of windows, the upper range being cireular. A 
 gallery, supported on gilt columns, runs round the greater 
 part of it. On State occasions (see p. 1 57 .) the Throne is 
 placed at the entrance to the gallery, which is then closed. 
 There is a gallery for the Empress, the Imperial Princesses, 
 and their suites. The ceiling, painted hy Muller, represents 
 Civilisation, enlightening the world. At her sides there are 
 Justice and Force, the Genius of Law, and Philosophy. 
 France is seated on a throne between Abundance and Gene- 
 rosity. Behind stands Prudence, holding the national flag, 
 protected by Vigilance and Patriotism. Below genii present 
 Algeria to France, and History writes the national annals. 
 Further on there are genii presenting to the world Literature, 
 Science, the Arts, and Religion ; near the latter are Joan of 
 Arc, (personifying female heroism), Devotion, Charity, Misery 
 and Sorrow finding consolation in prayer. Tradition receiving 
 the Scriptures, and Sacred Music. The left side is devoted to 
 Labour, Agriculture, Arts, Science, Poetry, Meditation, Manu- 
 factures, Commerce. Below is War, and at the other end 
 there are symbols of Peace. Over the entrance opposite the 
 gallery is an equestrian statue of Charlemagne, before which 
 a procession passes, and over the other is one of Napoleon I., 
 with groups of veterans, young men, and the Arts, depositing 
 wreaths of palm at his feet, etc. 
 
 Retracing our steps to theSa//e de$ Sept Cheminees, a door 
 to the right, opposite, leads to another part of the 
 
 Musee Napoleon Til., containing another part of the Cam- 
 pana collection, and antiquities brought over from Syria by 
 M. Ernest Renan, from Macedonia and Thessaly hy M. Henzey, 
 and from the North of Asia Minor by M. Perrault. The de- 
 scription of these rooms is briefly as follows • — 1st room : 
 
MUSEUMS OF THE LOUVRE. 167 
 
 antique pottery from Judea, Cyprus, and Rhodes ; ceiling ; 
 the presentation of Poussin by Cardinal Richelieu to Louis 
 XIII., by Alaux ; 2d : Etruscan and Roman pottery ; ceiling : 
 the battle of Ivry, by Steuben ; 3d : painted vases of the 
 primitive period ; ceiling ; Puget presenting bis group of Milo 
 of Croton, now in the Musee de la Sculpture Moderne, to 
 Louis XIV. at Versailles, by Deveria ; 4th : tombs, sepulchral 
 lamps, urns, &c., in the centre the “ Lydian tomb in terra- 
 cotta ; ceiling : Francis I., accompanied by his court, receiving 
 the paintings brought by Primaticcio from Italy, by Fragonard ; 
 5th : Coiinthian vases found at Ceeriin Etruria; ceiling : an 
 allegorical representation of the revival of the arts in France, 
 and eight historical subjects from the time of Charles VIII. to 
 the death of Henry II. , by Heim ; Gth ; Vases found in Magna 
 Grsecia; ceiling: Francis I. knighted by Bayard, by Fra- 
 gonard ; 7th : the same series continued ; ceiling : Charlemagne 
 receiving the Bible from Alcuin, by Schnetz ; 8th : red vases 
 with painted subjects, Greek and Etruscan ; ceiling ; Louis XII. 
 proclaimed father of the people at the states-general of Toui’s 
 in 1506, by Drolling; 9th: glass, mosaics, frescoes from 
 Pompeii sent by the late Francis I. of Naples ; ceiling : the expe- 
 dition to Egypt under the orders of Napoleon, by L, Coignet ( i ). 
 
 A suite parallel to this contains the old collection of Egyp- 
 tian, Greek, and Roman antiquities. It commences with the 
 
 Musee Egyptien, most of the antiquities in which are 
 the fruits of the French researches in Egypt. For articles 
 of domestic life, and for all minuter details, this is perhaps the 
 most complete collection in existence. Valuable Egyptian 
 vases, human mummies and those of animals, some MSS, in 
 fine preservation, and palettes on which the colours still re- 
 ma n, will be remarked. Seeds of various kinds, and even 
 fragments of bread, found in the tombs of Egypt, are collected 
 hero. Glass cases occupy the embrasures of the windows, con- 
 taining minute articles. Cloth of various kinds, brooms, musical 
 instruments, walking-sticks, a crutch shod with iron, shoes, 
 toilet-cases, mirrors, needles, and elegant spoons, all of the 
 earlier periods. of Egypt, fi-nd a place in this most interesting 
 museum. Here are also the weights and measures of the 
 Phileterian system, mentioned in the Scriptures, and some cu- 
 rious Egyptian loadstones, nicely balanced, so as to answer 
 the purpose of a magnetic needle. The ceiling of the first room 
 represents the Genius of France encouraging the arts, and tak- 
 ing Greece under her protection, by Gros. In that of the 2d, 
 is Pope Julius II. giving orders for the building of St. Peter’s 
 (i) On the ground-floor of this side of the court are studios 
 not shown to visitors without an order from the Director, 
 
FIRST WALK 
 
 168 
 
 to Bramante, Michael Angelo, and Raphael, by Horace Vernet. 
 The ceiling of the 3d represents Egypt saved by Joseph, by 
 Abel de Pujol. That of the 4th represents Study and Genius 
 aiding Greece in exploring Egypt, by Picot. Compartments in 
 other styles accompany these ceilings. 
 
 La Salle (la Trdnc is next entered ; its magnificent ceiling is 
 divided into nine compartments, painted by Gros. Six of 
 these represent the busts of Pericles, Augustus, Leo X., Fran- 
 cis I., Louis XIV., and Charles X., with scrolls, bearing the 
 names of the celebrated writers of their age. The centre com- 
 partment represents Glory supported by Virtue, with scrolls 
 Ijeariug the names of celebrated French statesmen, warriors, 
 and writers. In the eighth is Truth, assisted by Time, receiv- 
 ing the protection of Wisdom; in the ninth. Victory holding 
 the reins of two fiery steeds ready to draw the chariot of Mars ; 
 Peace offers him a bridle, the emblem of moderation. The 
 ceiling rests on white marble Corinthian columns, with gilt 
 capitals and bases ; in the centre of the floor is a fine mosaic 
 encircling a pedestal which supports an Egyptian idol in black 
 marble. Mummies and Egyptian sarcophagi stand in other 
 parts of the room. We now enter the 
 
 Musee Grec et Romain. — Here we have the series of antiqui- 
 ties found in ancient Etruria and the. south of Italy, but chiefly 
 in Greece. The collection occupies four rooms, and is ex- 
 ceedingly choice. The visitor’s attention will be attracted by the 
 unusual size of a great number of the vases, particularly those 
 on the marble tables, and to the high state of preservation of 
 most of them. The wealth and refinement of Herculaneum 
 and Pompeii are represented here, and even most of the utensils 
 of domestic life may be seen in these cases. A collection of 
 glass vases, another of bronze instruments, and another of 
 cameos and gems, will not escape the visitor’s attention. The 
 ceilings represent : 1st room, Cybele, the Magna Mater, 
 protecting Stabise, Herculaneum, Pompeii and Retina, from 
 the fires of Vesuvius, by Picot ; 2d, the nymphs of Parthenope, 
 carrying their household gods to the banks of the Seine, under 
 the guidance of Minerva, by Meynier ; 3d, represents Vesuvius 
 receiving fire from Jupiter to consume Herculaneum, Pompeii 
 and Stabise, by Heim; 4th, the apotheosis of Homer, by Ingres. 
 On the mantel-piece of this room stands the bust of the late 
 lamented architect Visconti, who furnished the designs for the 
 completion of the Louvre. The last-mentioned room opens 
 into the Salle des Sept Cheminees. 
 
 The visitor must now retrace his steps to the Musee Egyptien, 
 wdiich leads to a Corinthian staircase at the south-eastern angle of 
 (he Gallery. Here he will find an entrance opening into (he 
 
MUSEUMS OF THE LOUVUE. IfiO 
 
 celebrated colonnade of Claude Perrault, and obtain an ad- 
 vantageous view of St.-Germain-rAuxerrois ( see p. 238). 
 
 Another door on the same side gives access to the 
 
 Musee des Souverains, composed of five rooms, the three 
 first of which severally bear the names of Chambre d’Anne 
 d’Autriche, Chambre d coucher de Henri IV, and Salon de 
 Henri IV. The elaborate carving and gilding of the ceilings 
 [ and wainscoting is remarkable. The first room contains a 
 portrait of Louis XIII., by Philippe de Champagne, and a 
 modern one of Anne d’Autriche opposite. A splendid vase of 
 Sevres porcelain and gilt bronze stands in the centre. The 2d 
 room contains full-length portraits of Henry IV. and Marie de 
 Medicis, and, in an alcove where Henry IV. used to sleep, 
 there is a statue of that prince in his childhood, by Bosio. 
 In the 3d room are the altar and desks of a chapel of the 
 Order of the Holy Ghost, with the mantles worn by the 
 knights, and other brilliant articles relating to the same. The 
 fourth room is called the Salle des Bourbons. A rectangular 
 compartment of the ceiling contains the arms of the Bourbons, 
 flanked with the initials of Louis XVIII. and Charles X. 
 On the coves are medallions with the portraits of those 
 princes, and the legends, Trocadero and Alger, under each 
 respectively; the walls display fleurs de lys on a blue 
 ground. In the centre of this room we perceive, under glass 
 cases, the rich saddles and saddle-cloths used at the corona- 
 tions of Louis XVI. and Charles X. , and in the presses around, 
 marked with the names of the kings whose reigns are repre- 
 sented here by some object of interest, we find the arm-chair 
 of King Dagobert, full suits of armour worn by Charles IX., 
 Henry II., (1) Henry HI., Henry IV., Francis II., Louis XIIL, 
 and Louis XIV. ; a splendid casket, presented to Anne 
 d’Autriche by Bichelieu ; and the baptismal font used at the 
 baptism of St. Louis, Philip Augustus, and the Comte de Paris. 
 It is a silver basin, covered with handsome chasings. There are 
 also many other objects of great interest here, such as the sceptre 
 of Charlemagne, a chandelier and mirror presented to Marie 
 de Medicis by the Bepublic of Venice, both studded with 
 cameos and precious stones ; a copy of the crown worn by 
 Louis XVI. at his coronation ; his sword (without a hilt) ; a 
 shoe worn by Marie Antoinette ; the prayer-book of Charle- 
 magne, dated 780; his sword and spurs ; the marriage sword 
 
 (i) That to the left is the one in which he was killed in 
 155!). The visor of the helmet being raised for air, (as the 
 day was hot and the exercise of the tournament fatiguing,) 
 the tilting spear of the Count de Monfgommeri accidently hit 
 (he king’s eye and ciitefed his brain, 
 
170 
 
 FIRST WALK. 
 
 oflJcnry IV., and other arms of historical interest. A beautiful 
 cabinet, which belonged to Marie Antoinette, stands in the 
 left corner ; and a large casket, adorned with pastoral minia- 
 tures on white velvet, and bearing the cyphers of Louis XYI. 
 and Marie Antoinette, is to be seen in the adjoining 
 press. In a corner opposite is the sedan-chair of Louis 
 XV. ; near the windows are the desks of Louis XVIII. 
 and Louis Philippe, the latter bearing marks of the fury 
 of the invaders of the Tuileries in 1848. Several articles 
 here displayed formed part of Prince Soltikoff’s collection. 
 
 — The fifth room, called the Salle de I’Empereur, displays 
 on its ceiling the name of Napoleon, and numerous eiublems i 
 
 of giory, the arts and sciences, &c. The walls are studded ^ 
 
 with bees on a red ground. In this room we see a silver 
 statue of Napoleon I., the size of life, by Rochet. He is 
 represented as a pupil of the School of Brienne. Among the 
 other articles in this room are the full-dress clothes worn 
 by him on state occasions ; his uniform which he wore at 
 Marengo ; his sword of First Consul, his horse’s bridle-bit, the 
 hat he wore in the campaign of 1814, and the small round hat 
 which he wore at St. Helena, as well as the pocket-handker- 
 chief which he used when on his death-bed ; the Austrian uni- 
 form of the Duke de Reichstadt ; a locket containing the hair of 
 Napoleon and of his son, and the flag kissed by Napoleon 
 when he bid adieu at Fontainebleau, and which had since then 
 remained in the possession of General Petit. A small chalk 
 sketch of Napoleon I. at the age of 16, signed “Cournoni,” 
 
 (17 85) will be seen near the entrance. 
 
 From this suite we enter three rooms called the 
 
 Musee de la Colo7inade, where the paintings which formed 
 part of the Campana collection have now been arranged, con- 
 stituting the third section of the Musee Napoleon III. They 
 arc 303 in number, and comprise several works of the earlier 
 painters, as well as some masterpieces of the more modern 
 Italian schools. 
 
 Arriving at the north-east staircase, we find to the left a 
 series of seven rooms, formeilv occupied by tbe Collection 
 Standish, bequeathed in 1838 to Louis Philippe by F. II. 
 Standish, Esq., of Duxbury Hall, Lancashire, but sold by 
 auction in 1850, together with one called the Galeiie 
 Espagnole, in order to cover the liabilities of the dethroned 
 King. Subsequently these rooms were devoted to en- 
 gravings, those especially the plates of which arc the property 
 of the Louvre, from which, by the sale of copies, it derives 
 a considerable income. These rooms are now chiefly filled 
 wilh the curious and interesting 
 
MUSEUMS OF THE LOUVRE. 
 
 171 
 
 Collection Sauvageof, thus called after a gentleman of that 
 name, a distingiiis|jed antiquarian, who left it hy will to the 
 Louvre in 1856. The whole collection is valued at a million 
 of francs, exclusively of many articles which have been 
 added to it. The antechamber contains various statues and 
 groups executed in terra-cotta after the manner of Luca della 
 Robbia ; in the first room of the suite we find Italian crockery 
 of the same period and school, viz., plates, dishes, &c., 
 adorned with painted figures. This series is continued in the 
 second room. In the third we find specimens of Bernard 
 Palissy’s earthenware. In this the various subjects and de- 
 vices are in relief. The fourth coptains valuable bronzes, 
 such as statuettes, embossed dishes, cups, 6cc., besides two 
 bronze bas-reliefs in compartments, representing the Italian 
 campaigns of 1515 and 1544. In the fifth we see specimens 
 of Venetian glass, flasks, cups, beakers, &c., and a mosaic 
 by Fasolo, representing the Lion of Venice. The sixth 
 room is devoted to carved wood, such as delicate trinkets, 
 medallions, 6cc., of exquisite workmanship ; and the seventh 
 chiefly contains carved ivory, including statuettes, dyptics, 
 furniture, 6cc., together with an altar-screen, all of ivory, 
 minutely carved in 69 compartments, representing subjects 
 taken from the New Testament. 
 
 With the eighth room, which contains chalk drawings hy 
 various celebrated masters, commences the 
 
 Musee des Dessins, one of the most valuable and extensive 
 collections of works of this kind in existence, consisting of 14 
 rooms, and comprising 36,000 specimens of the great mas- 
 ters of all schools, of inestimable value to the professional 
 student, as well as to the connoisseur. Many precious speci- 
 mens of the pencils of the first masters of the Italian, Flemish, 
 French and Spanish schools are here exhibited. The visitor 
 will find choice subjects due to the talent of Poussin. 
 Lcsucur, Claude Lorraine, Teniers, Rubens, Van Dyck, Albert 
 Durer, Rembrandt, Cuyp, Holbein, &c. ; beautiful miniature 
 portraits of historical interest, and other portraits, groups, and 
 views executed in pencil, Indian ink, 8cc. In the last five 
 rooms the drawings are mostly arranged under glazed frames 
 on inclined desks. These rooms were formerly those reserved 
 for state purposes, and under Charles X. were used for the re- 
 ception of the Chambers before the opening of the legislative 
 session. The first of the- suite was formerly an antechamber, 
 and has no decorations; the second was the Salle dcs Confe- 
 vences ; the ceiling, painted by Mauzaisse, represents Divine 
 Wisdom giving laws to kings and legislators. The ceiling of 
 the third, the Salle du Comite du Contentieux, represents Law 
 
172 FIRST WALK. 
 
 descending upon earth, by Drolling. The fourth is the Grande 
 Salle du Conseil, the ceiling of which, by Blondel, represents 
 France receiving the charter from Louis XVIII. It is surrounded 
 hy'eight allegorical and as many historical compartments. The 
 fifth room, of the tune of Henry II., has a richly decorated 
 ceiling : History recording the events of the battle of Bou- 
 vines ; it is surrounded with allegorical figures, hy Blondel. 
 
 The Musee de la Marine occupies the second floor on the 
 northern side, and is approached hy a small staircase leading 
 from the ante-room of the Collection Sauvageot; it occupies a 
 suite of 1 1 rooms, and contains models of vessels of all classes, 
 many equipped and armed. In the 1st room is the model 
 of the country around Luxor, where the obelisk of the Place 
 de la Concorde formerly stood. This model gives an accurate 
 idea of the operation of shipping the obelisk and of the machi- 
 nery used for the purpose (see p. 179). Another model shows 
 the operation of raising the obelisk on its pedestal in Paris. 
 Above this, on the wall, is an inscription, placed there hy the 
 English residents in France, commemorating the heroic endur- 
 ance of Lieut. Bcllot, of the French navy, who perished in the 
 Arctic expedition of 1853 sent in search of Sir J. Franklin. 
 Models of Brest, Lorient, Toulon, and Rochefort are in the 2d, 
 3d, 8th, and 11th rooms, executed on a large scale and with 
 great nicety. In the 2d is the model of the three-decker Valmy, 
 executed in ivory and ebony. In the 4th is the model of the 
 3-decker I’Oce'an, six metres in length. In the 5th room is the 
 bell of Fort St. Jean d’Ulloa, pierced through with cannon- 
 shot. In the 6th is an obelisk decorated with the relics of 
 the ship of M. de La Perouse, discovered and brought to France 
 by an Englishman, Capt. Dillon ; in a glass press we see a 
 letter addressed by La Perouse to one of his friends just before 
 his departure from Brest in 1785 ; there is also the trunk of 
 a tree, found at Botany Bay, bearing the epitaph of one of 
 La Perouse’s chaplains. In the 7th, on a stand there is the 
 model of the Belle-Poule frigate, which brought over the re- 
 mains of Napoleon I, from St. Helena in 1840."^ In the 9th is a 
 piece of ordnance, on the revolving principle, with 1 2 chambers, 
 and invented at Joigny in i837. Here likewise is a large 
 model of a steam-engine, with others of fire-arms of every 
 calibre. In the l oth are geographical globes, sextants, and other 
 scientific instruments used in navigation. The 1 1th room con- 
 tains a beautiful model of the state galley of Louis XIV. ; the 
 walls are decorated with the admirable gilt bas-reliefs which 
 ornamented the original. Hero is also a model of the gor- 
 geous man-of-war, the Louis X V. From this room we enter the 
 
 Mu^ee Ethnonrophique, coobisting of six rooms, the first o.f 
 
MUSEUMS OF THE LOUVRE. 173 
 
 Which contains, besides models of the men-of-wav Tage, 
 Rivoli, and Inflexible, a collection of weapons used by the 
 nations of Central Africa. In the 2d there are a few models of 
 junks, canoes, 8cc., also some Chinese paintings, including a 
 few very good caricatures of Europeans, and landscapes 
 rather deficient in perspective. The 3d contains a collec- 
 tion of arms and ornaments used by various nations inhabit- 
 ing the islands of the South Pacific, and the still compa- 
 I ratively unexplored regions of North America. In the centre 
 ' of the room is a model of the celebrated temple of Jagganatha, 
 or Juggernaut, in India. The fourth, fifth, and sixth rooms, 
 to the left on entering, are specially devoted to Chinese art and 
 manufactures. Here we see a large chapel of carved wood, 
 containing a Goddess called Kang, besides other idols, altars, 
 various obiects of worship, and household utensils. The spe- 
 cimens of Chinese porcelain are numerous and elegant ; there 
 are besides a model of a Chinese burial, also boxes, fur- 
 niture, paintings, amulets, coins, carved chessmen, dresses, 
 utensils, trinkets, &cc., partly brought over by M. de Lagrenee, 
 and partly sent from Canton by Admiral Rigault de Genouilly. 
 
 In a passage to the right of the 3d room is the 
 
 Musee Americain, containing objects of Peruvian and 
 Mexican origin, sent by M. Audrand, French Consul in Bolivia. 
 It consists of pieces of sculpture, seals, woven stuffs, etc., 
 showing the comparatively high civilisation of those nations 
 at the time of the Conquest. 
 
 Passing to the galleries on the ground floor, the first we 
 find to our left on re-entering the court, is the Musee de la 
 Sculpture Moderne. It is arranged in five halls, and is 
 remarkable for many master-pieces of the French school, to 
 which are added a few by foreign artists. The room to the 
 left, called the Salle Coysevox, contains Marie Adelaide of 
 Savoy, as Diana, and a splendid tomb of Cardinal Mazariu. 
 In the Salle du Puget, is the celebrated Milo of Croton by that 
 artist ; also a marble group representing Perseus delivering 
 Andromeda, and a small bronze model of the equestrian statue 
 by Girardon, which formerly stood in the Place Vendome ; 
 there is also a foot of the statue itself (see p. 176.) The Salle 
 des Coustou has statues of Louis XV., Maria Lescinska, Queen 
 of France, and four bas-reliefs in bronze, by Desjardins. In 
 the Salle de Houdon we see Psyche, by Pajou; Diana in 
 bronze, by Houdon; the bust ofBuffon, by Pajou ; and that of 
 Madame Dubarry, by the same. The last, the Salle de 
 Chaudet, contains Love and Psyche, by Canova ; and the co- 
 lossal bust of Napoleon I. by Bartolini. 
 
 Further on, in the north-eastern portion, is the 
 
174 FIRST walk. 
 
 Galerie Assyrienne, consisting of six rooinsj and a ves- 
 tibule on the iiorthera ground floor, and containing valuable 
 relics of Assyrian sculpture brought to light in the vicinity 
 of Nineveh, through the exertions of M. llotta, French consul 
 in Syria. Colossal winged hulls flank the doors of tiie second 
 room. The bas-reliefs, which occupy the lateral walls, are 
 interesting as showing the costumes, weapons, and vessels 
 of the remotest ages, the manner in which they were laden, 
 and their clumsy oars. The cuneiform inscriptions, taken 
 from the palaces of Sardanapalus, Nimrod, Taimanassac, 
 and Jehu, the small seals engraved on agate and jasper, 
 are worthy of attention. The thiicl room contains Greek 
 haut-reliefs, a vase discovered at Pergama, and the great Ama- 
 thusian vase, 10 metres in circumference, sent over from 
 Cyprus in i8 60. The vestibule which follows is filled with 
 plaster-casts from the Musee des Platres. The 5th romi con- 
 tains sarcophagi, 5cc., from Niuiveh, and the 6th, valuable 
 specimens of Greek sculpture from the Parthenon, Delos, &c. 
 
 In the south-eastern portion is the 
 
 Galerie Egyptienne, a lofty hall filled with colossal Egyp- 
 tian statues, sphynxes, bas-reliefs, paintings, and other curiosi- 
 ties. The freshness of the colours of the paintings, which the 
 lapse of upwards of thirty centuries has been unable to efface, 
 is really surprising. The visitor will particularly remark the 
 bas-reliefs which adorned the pedestal of the obelisk of Luxor. 
 The adjoining vestibule, which is filled with specimens of 
 Egyptian pottery, a figure of the sacred bull, 8cc., communi- 
 cates to the left with a passage containing a number of Roman 
 antiquities, such as busts, inscriptions 8cc., found in Algeria. 
 Ascending the staircase, which leads to the Musee des Souve- 
 rains, we perceive on the walls five large copies of Egyptian 
 paintings. 
 
 In the southern wing is the 
 
 Musee de la Sculpture de la Renaissance, composed of 6 
 rooms. In the first, besides the casts of the tombs of Charles 
 and Mary de Bourgogne, the visitor will remark the cast of a 
 stupendous chimney-piece of the Salle du Senat at Bruges, cf 
 the most elaborate workmanship. The 2d room, called the 
 Salle Jean Goujon, contains specimens of sculpture by that 
 artist ; among which is his masterpiece, Diana de Poitiers (the 
 favourite of Henry II., who, at the age of 47, captivated the 
 youthful king) represented as Diana Venatrix. We also see a fine 
 group of four angels carved in wood by Germain Pilon, Next 
 comes, to the left, the Salle des Anguier, where the most con- 
 spicuous object is the pyramidal monument to Henri deLongue- 
 ville. Here are also bronze statues of Louis XIII., Anne 
 
MUSEUMS OF THE LOUVRE. 175 
 
 d’Auti'iche, and Louis XIV. in his boyhood, by Guillain, a 
 bronze statue of Fame, by Berthelot, andFrancheville’s master- 
 piece, the four bronze figures, representing as many conquered 
 nations, that formerly adorned the equestrian statue of Henri 
 IV., on the Pout Neuf. There are also some fragments of the 
 statue itself, which was of colossal dimensions (see p. 297.) 
 Returning to the 2d room, we enter the Salle de Jean de Douai, 
 or Giovanni di Bologna, containing the group of Mercury and 
 Psyche in bronze, by Adrien de Vries, and the bronze bas- 
 relief of Diana with the stag by Benvenuto Cellini, which 
 adorned the Chateau d’Anet (see p. 366.) Here is also a pri- 
 soner, in marble by Michel Angelo. The Salle de Michel 
 Colombe contains a beautiful alto-relievo of white marble, by 
 that artist, representing St. George killing the dragon. There 
 is also a statue of Louis XII. by Demugiano. 
 
 All these museums are open to the public on all days, 
 Mondays excepted, from 1 2 to 4 ; to artists daily, Sundays 
 and Mondays excepted, from 8 to 1. For permission to study 
 in the museums, apply by letter to “Monsieur le Directeur 
 des Musees, au Louvre.” 
 
 The visitor, on leaving, should enter the 
 
 Rue de Rivoli, that vast artery connecting the utmost 
 limits of the Tuileries with the rue St. Antoine, a distance 
 of 3146 metres, (2 miles.) It runs through part of the 
 ground once occupied by the orchard of the convent of the 
 Feuillants, and by the celebrated Manege, or riding-school, 
 where a temporary building, erected in 17 90, was succes- 
 sively occupied by the Constituent and Legislative Assem- 
 blies, the Convention, and the Council of Five Hundred. 
 This street was begun in 1802 , and continued with a uniform 
 system of arcades to the northern pavilion of the Tuileries, 
 thus opening the noble garden of the palace to public view on 
 the northern side. The menacing prospect of serious danger to 
 the State roused the Government of 1848 to provide work for 
 the labouring classes at any cost, and it resolved to continue 
 the Rue de Rivoli. During the reign of the present Emperor, 
 the rue de Rivoli has been prolonged beyond the Hotel de 
 Ville. The arcades extend as far as the rue du Louvre, 
 turning also into the Place du Palais Royal. This street 
 has cost a sum of 150 millions of francs, and caused the 
 demolition of upwards of 1,000 houses. As was the case 
 with the old rue de Rivoli, the houses built with arcades in 
 the new one, have been exempted from taxes for thirty years. 
 
 The principal pavilion of the New Louvre, facing the 
 Palais Royal, contains the 
 
 Bibliotheque du Louvre — the Emperor’s private library. 
 
176 FIRST WALK. 
 
 to visit wiiich, apply by letter to Son Excellence le Grand 
 Marechal dn Palais, aux Tuileries. The stranger, on as- 
 cending a beautifully sculptured double-branched staircase, 
 will enter a suite consisting of two saloons connected by a 
 spacious gallery, with six recesses on each side, fitted up 
 with bookcases. The ceiling of the first saloon, painted by 
 Brune, represents the Muses ; that of the second, by Abel de 
 Pujol, the Arts and Sciences. Here is a collection of books 
 bequeathed to the Emperor by Mr. Mottley, an American. 
 Students may obtain permanent entrance here. 
 
 Continuing westwards along the Rue de Rivoli, we find 
 opposite the Rue Richelieu (1), the offices of the Ministere de 
 la Maison de I’Empereur, and at No. 192, near the Passage 
 Delorme, a house occupied in 184 8 by Sobrier and his ad- 
 herents until the 1 5th of May, when they were forcibly dis- 
 banded. At No. 224, are the library and news-rooms of Messrs. 
 Galignani and Co., wherethedaily English newspaper, Galig- 
 nani’s Messenger, so well known throughout the Continent, is 
 published (see Directory). Most of the houses in this street are 
 public hotels, among which is Meurice’s, No. 228, an estab- 
 lishment almost as well known as the rue de Rivoli itself. 
 
 The rue de Castiglione leads to the octagonal 
 
 Place Vendome — of which the Rue de la Paix (2) forms 
 the only other outlet on the opposite side. The Place Ven- 
 dome, originilly called Place des Conqu6tes, and then Place 
 Louis le Grand, was begun by Mansard, in 1 099, Louis XIV. 
 having, at the suggestion of Louvois, purchased the hotel of 
 the Due de Vendome, an illegitimate son of Henry IV. and Ga- 
 hrielle d’Estrees, which stood on this site. The buildings, ori- 
 ginally intended for the Royal Library, the Mint, 8cc., were 
 subsequently continued by the City of Paris, and finished by 
 the financier Law. They are uniformly Corinthian : the larger 
 sides of the octagon measure 450 feet, the smaller 420. In 
 the middle formerly stood a colossal equestrian statue of Louis 
 XIV., in broaze, by Girardin and Keller, erected in 1069, but 
 demolished cn August 10, 1792; the bronze figures that orna- 
 mented its base are to be seen in the Musee de la Renaissance. 
 The mutilated pedestal was replaced in 1806 by the 
 
 Colonne Vendome, erected by Napoleon, to comme- 
 
 (1) At the :orner of the rue de Richelieu and the rue St. 
 Honord some soldiers of the Garde Royale made a desperate re- 
 sistance in the revolution of i830, and fell to a man. 
 
 ( 2 ) On the site of the rue de la Paix, originally rue Napoldon, 
 stood the large Convent of the Capucines, the greater portion of 
 which was destroyed in 1789. In i806 the street was formed 
 through the aody of the convent. 
 
’iffTRjn mTTPTBiA’OL iUEcniET ®]? if.° imro rnL]^ .. 
 
 Jry^ ^ /Hiartion-' 3tr y jSiutr/Siui/e-IFitrj^ 
 
COLONNE VENDOME. 
 
 morate the success of his arms in the German Campaign of 1 8 o 5 . 
 This column, 135 feel high, by 12 in diameter, is an imitation 
 of the pillar of Trajan at Rome, on a scale larger by one 
 twelfth. The pedestal, 21 feet in height, and 20 in breadth 
 and the shaft are of stone, covered with bronze bas-reliefs* 
 cast out of 1,200 pieces of Russian and Austrian cannon’ 
 weighing 3 CO,O 00 lbs., and representing the victories of the 
 French army. The bas-reliefs of the pedestal represent the 
 ' uniforms and weapons of the conquered troops. Four eagles 
 weighing 500lbs. each, stand at the corners of the pedestal’ 
 supporting wreaths of oak. The door, of massive bronze is 
 decorated with crowns of oak, surmounted by an eagle ; above 
 is a bas-relief, representing two figures of Fame, suppo’rting a 
 tablet, with the following inscription ; ® 
 
 Neapolio Imp. Aug. Monumentum belli Germanic! Anno 
 MDCCCV. Trimestri spatio, ductu suo, profligati, ex aer’e canto 
 Gloriae exercitus maximi dicavit. ^ ’ 
 
 : The spiral bas-reliefs of the shaft display, in order, the prin- 
 
 cipal actions, from the departure of the troops from Boulogne 
 to the battle of Austerlitz. The figures, 2,ooo in number are 
 three feet high ; the length of the scroll 840 feet ; a spiral thread 
 divides the lines, and bears the names of the actions repre- 
 sented. The designs, by Bergeret, were executed by^si 
 sculptors, one of whom was Mme. Charpentier. Above the 
 capital is a gallery, approached by a winding staircase of 176 
 steps. Upon the capital is this inscription : 
 
 Monument 61ev6 a la gloire de la grande arm^e, par Napoleon 
 le Grand, commence le xxv aout 1 806, termini le xv aoht isio 
 sous la direction de D. V. Denon, MM. J. B. Lep^re et L GonI 
 doin, architectes. 
 
 The capital is surmounted by an acroterium, on which we see 
 a bronze statue, by Dumont, of Napoleon I. in a Roman cos- 
 tume and wearing the Imperial mantle. It is an exact copy 
 of the first statue by Chaudet which stood here, and which 
 was melted down in 1814 to form part of the horse of Henry 
 iV ., now on the Pont Neuf. The figure of Victory in the Em- 
 peror’s right hand is the same which was held by the original 
 , statue ( 1 ) . The column stands upon a plinth of polished granite 
 ! surrounded by an iron railing. The total cost was 1,500,000 
 i francs. The view of Paris and the environs from the gallery 
 
 ( 1 ) During the Restoration a lleur-de-lys and a flag-staff oc- 
 cupied the place of the statue ; but on the 28th of July i 833 a 
 statue by Seurre, representing Napoleon I. in his welhknown 
 military costume, vvas solemnly inaugurated in the presence of 
 Louis Philippe. This statue, 1 1 feet high, now stands on a pe- 
 destal in the centre of the Rond-Pointof Courbevoie. (Seep. 507 ) 
 
178 first walk. 
 
 is most interesting. To ascend it, apply to the guardian at 
 the door, who expects a small gratuity, and furnishes the 
 visitor with a lantern. The hours are from 10 to 6 iii sum- 
 mer, and 1 to 4 in winter. 
 
 The Fontaine des Capucins, at the corner of the rue Casti- 
 glione and rue St. Honore, was erected in 1071, and rebuilt in 
 1718. It bears the following inscription by Santeuil ; 
 
 Tot loca sacra inter, pura est quae labltur unda; 
 
 Hanc non impuro, quisquis es, ore bibas. 
 
 Six convents formerly stood here. Further west is the 
 ficLiSE DE l’Assomption, 369, rucSt. Honore. — This church, 
 formerly belonging to a convent of Dames de VAssomption, 
 now converted into barracks, was built by Errard in 167 6. 
 It is circular, and surmounted by a dome 62 feet in diameter. 
 The style is Corinthian ; the cupola is painted in fresco by 
 Lafosse. It contains the Birth of the Virgin, by Suvee (1779), 
 and an Assumption, by Blondel. The church is a chapel of 
 ease to the church of the Madeleine. 
 
 The rue de Luxembourg leads to the Hotel des Finances, 
 a vast building comprised between the rues de Rivoli, de Casti- 
 glione, du Mont Thabor, and de Luxembourg. 
 
 Further on, at the corner of the rue St. Florentin, is a large 
 and handsome mansion, formerly the residence of Prince Tal- 
 leyrand, and purchased, after his death, by Baron Rothschild. 
 Before the revolution of 17 89 it was the hotel of the Duchess de 
 I’lnfantado . Alexander I . , Emperor of Russia, occupied it in 1 8 1 4 . 
 
 SEOiOlTK ITALZ. 
 
 This walk comprises the 1 cth arrondissement, with a fraction 
 of the 8lh. The visitor will commence it by the 
 
 Place de la Concorde, or de Louis XV., which was, till the 
 reign of that King, a waste, irregular space. After the peace 
 of Aix-la-ChapeUe, the Municipality obtained leave of Louis XV. 
 to form a square here, adorned with a statue in his honour. 
 The works, conducted after the designs of Gabriel, were not 
 finished until 1772. The square was octagonal, bounded by 
 balustraded losses. The two line marble groups, by Coustou, 
 jun., representing restive borses checked by grooms, which 
 stand at the entrance of the Champs Elysees, were brought 
 hither from Marly in 1790, like their counterparts opposite, 
 by Coysevox, at the western entrance of the garden of the 
 Tuilerics. In the middle stood a bronze equestrian statue 
 of Louis XV., in a Roman costume, by Bouchardon. At the 
 lour angles of the pedestal were marble statues of Peace, 
 
©IF nKim'UTS'iE'iKsro 
 
PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. 179 
 
 Prudence, Justice, and Strength ( 1 ) . The statue was destroyed 
 hy order of the Legislative Assembly on the 1 Itli of August 
 1792, and melted down into cannon and republican two-sous 
 pieces, while a large plaster ligure of Liberty was placed on the 
 pedestal, in front of which was erected the guillotine, and the 
 place was called Place de la Revolution. By a decree of 1800 
 it assumed the name of Place de la Concorde ; both figure 
 and pedestal were removed, and a model of a column was 
 erected in wood covered with painted canvas. Figures 
 representing the Departments surrounded the base. The com- 
 pletion of this was prevented by the wars of the Empire. 
 
 In 18 14 the name of “ Place Louis XV.” was restored. Louis 
 XVIIL issued an ordonnance for re-erecting a statue of Louis 
 
 XV. Charles X. fixed the Rond Point of the Champs Elysees 
 as the proper place for this statue, intending to erect that of 
 Louis XVL on the Place Louis XV., to be called Place Louis 
 
 XVI. The events of 1830 caused it to remain in a neglected 
 state till 1836, when the works for its completion were begun. 
 
 In 1852, the fosses were filled up, and the carriage-ways wi- 
 dened. All the spaces for foot-passengers are flagged witli 
 bitumen. The square is enclosed with balustrades, terminating 
 in the basements of eight colossal statues of the chief provincial 
 cities, viz. Lille and Strasburg, by Pradier ; Bordeaux and 
 Nantes, by Calhouet ; Marseilles and Brest, by Cortot; Rouen 
 and Lyons, by Petitot. Twenty rostral columns, bearing lamps, 
 are placed along the balustrades, and 1 20 ornamental lamp-posts 
 border the carriage-ways. In the centre of the square stands the 
 
 Obelisk of Luxor. — This magnificent relic of ancient Egypt 
 is one of two obelisks that stood in front of the great temple of r 
 Thebes, the modern Luxor, where they were erected, 1550 \ 
 years before Christ, by Rhamses III., of the 18th Egyptian dy- \ 
 nasty, better known in history as the great Sesostris. These ‘ 
 two monoliths were given by Mehemet Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, 
 to the French government, in consideration of the advantages 
 conferred by France on Egypt in aiding to form the arsenal and 
 navalestablishment of Alexandria, but only one was removed (2 ). 
 This obelisk is formed of the finest red syenite, and covered 
 
 (i) The luxury and dissolute habits of the court at that lime 
 gave rise to the following pasquinade : 
 
 O la Belle statue! 6 le Beau piCdestal! 
 
 Lcs vei'tiis sent 5 i)ied, le vice est a cheval. 
 
 By a singular coineidence of dates, the idea of erecting this 
 royal statue on the future Place de la Concorde, was conceived 
 on the 24 th of February i748, and the statue itself reached the 
 square, after 4 days’ hard labour, on the 24th of February 1T63. 
 It was inaugurated on the 2 oth of June following. 
 
 S’) The operation of transporting this monolith toFrance, which 
 
180 SECOND WALK. 
 
 on each face with three lines of hieroglyphic inscriptions com* 
 memorative of Sesostris ; the middle lines being the most deeply 
 cut and most carefully finished. The number of characters is 
 1,600. A flaw which it had when first cut from the quarry 
 extends to one-third of its height, but is not perceptible from 
 the ground. The Egyptians remedied this by inserting two 
 wooden mortises under the inner surfaces. The apex has been 
 left in the rough state in which it was when found in Egypt, 
 The height of this monolith is 72 ft. 3 inches; its greatest 
 width at the base 7 ft. 6 inches ; at the top, 5 ft, 4 inches ; 
 Its weight 500,000 pounds. (1) The pedestal on which it 
 stands is a single block of grey granite, from the quarries of 
 Laber, in Britanny, weighing 240,000 pounds, and 15 feet by 
 9 at the bottom and 8 at the top (2). On the northern face 
 of the pedestal are engraven gilt sections of the machinery 
 used at Luxor in removing the monolith ; on the southern are 
 those used in Paris. On the eastern side is this inscription : 
 
 Ludovicus Philippus I., Francorum Rex, ut antiquissimum ar- 
 tis Algyptiacae opus, idemque recentis glorias ad Nilum armis 
 partas insigne mouumentum Franciae ab ipsa jEgypto donatum 
 posteritate prorogaret, obeliscum Die xxv Aug. A. MDCCCXXXII. 
 Thebis Hecatompylis avectum naviq. ad id constructa intra men- 
 ses xiii. in Gallia perductum erigendum curavit. D. xxv. Octob. 
 A. MDCCCXXXYI. Anno reg. septimo. 
 
 Tlie inscription on the western side is as follows : 
 
 En pi'^sence du Roi Louis-Philippe I«’, cet obeiisque, trans- 
 ports de Louqsor en France, a SIS dressS sur ce piSdestal par 
 •M. Lebas, ingenieur, aux applaudissements d’un people im- 
 mense, le xxv octobre MDCCCXXXVI. 
 
 The entire cost of removal and erection was about two mil- 
 lions of francs. On either side of this venerable monument are 
 
 The two Fountains of the Place de la Concorde, dedicated, 
 one to Maritime, the other to Fluvial, Navigation. They consist 
 each of a circular basin, 50 feet in diameter, out of which rise 
 two other smaller basins, the upper and smaller one being in- 
 
 it took three years (from i83i to 1833) to complete, will be best 
 understood by inspecting the excellent model of the country 
 around Luxor in the Musee de la Marine at the Louvre, which 
 gives an exact idea of the road made to the Nile, the vessel con- 
 structed at Toulon for the purpose, &c. (see p. 172 ). The erec- 
 tion of the obelisk on the Place de la Concorde and the machinery 
 used vOct. 25tb, 1836) is fully represented by another model 
 close by. A box ol cedar, containing medals struck in comme- 
 moration of the occasion, was placed under the obelisk. 
 
 (1) The obelisk of the Vatican at Rome xveighs 900,000 lb. 
 
 ( 2 ) For a full description of this monument, see Notice Histo- 
 rique, Descriptive, et Archeologique sur I'Obelisque de Luxor. 
 
PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. 181 
 
 verted ; Iheir diameters are 12 and 20 feet respectively. The 
 middle basin is supported by a cylindrical shaft, ornamented 
 with foliage, standing on a hexagonal base. Six fignres nine 
 feet in height are seated around it, with their feet on the prows 
 of vessels;, and separated from each other by spouting dol- 
 phins. Six larger dolphins, held by as many Tritons and 
 Nereids, sporting in the large and highly ornamented basin 
 below, spout water into the second one. The shaft of the in- 
 verted basin is surrounded by three upright figures of winged 
 children, standing on inverted shells, with swans by their sides 
 spouting water. In the Maritime fountain, the figures sup- 
 porting the second basin represent the Ocean and Mediterranean, 
 by Debay ; the Genii of the Common and the Pearl Fisheries, 
 by Deshoeufs ; with those of the Coral and Shell Fisheries, by 
 Valois. The figures of the upper basin, representing the Genii 
 ■ of Astronomy, Commerce, and Maritime Navigation, are by 
 i Brian. In the Fluvial fountain, the lower figures are the 
 j Rhine and the Rhone, by Jechter ; the Genii of Flowers and 
 I Fruits, by Lanno; the Vintage and the Harvest, by Husson. 
 The upper figures, by Feucheres, are the Genii of Agriculture, 
 Manufactures, and Fluvial Navigation. The Tritons and Ne- 
 reids are by Moine, Elschouet, and Parfait. The lower basins 
 are of polished stone, and the remainder of each fountain is of 
 iron, bronzed by galvanism. The water of these fountains 
 comes from the Plaine de Monceaux (see p. 203.) 
 
 The Place de la Concorde forms a beautiful link between the » 
 Tuileries and the Champs Ely sees. On the north are two ' 
 palaces, between which the rue Royale opens a view of the 
 Madeleine ; to the south are the Pont de la Concorde, and 
 the 'L egis la tive Palace, behind which is seen towefing the 
 dome of InyaMes. The two edifices on the north side 
 are "each 288 feet in length ; and the rue Roya^ whicli 
 separates them, is 90 feet wide. In eacB7'th'enpper story, ^ 
 
 I flanked wath projecting pavilions, is adorned with 1 2 Corin- \ 
 thian columns resting on a rusticated arcaded basement. These \ 
 structures were erected by Potaiu, after the designs of Gabriel. 
 The build ing nearest to the garden of the Tuileries was formerly 
 occupied as the Garde-Meuble de laCouronne. Under Napoleon, 
 it was appropriated to the residence and offices of the Minister 
 i OF Marine (see p. 59), who still inhabits it. The building on 
 i the other side of the rue Royale is inhabited by private 
 families. The events that have rendered the Place de la Con- 
 corde famous are so identified with it, that we shall mention 
 the principal ones in chronological order ; — 
 
 Mat 30, 1770.— During the rejoicings in honour of the marriage of Louis 
 ■XVI., a fsla 1 accident was caused, after a discharge of iireworks, hy the pec- 
 
182 SECOND WALK. 
 
 pie taking a panic, in consequence of carriages driving among the crowd, 
 and rushing towards the rue Koyale, where the ground had been broken up 
 lor building; 1200 persons were trampled to death, and about 2000 others 
 seriously injured— an ominous commencement of nuptial bonds, to be cru- 
 elly severed by the guillotine ! 
 
 JuLv i2, 178!).— A collision between Prince de hainbcsc’s regiment and the 
 people became (he signal for the destruction of the Bastille. 
 
 »* Jan. 21, 1793.— Louis XVI. suffered death on fliis Place, (I) where the fol- 
 ’ lowing persons also subsequently perished by the guillotine : July 17, Cbar- 
 ; lottcCorday; Oct, 2,Brissot and 29 of his colleagues' Oct. iti, Blarie Antoi- 
 ! nette, consort of Louis XVI.: Nov. 17, Louis Philippe Joseph Egalite, Duke of 
 . Orleans : Marcli 24, 1794, the licbertists, Maratists, and Orlcanists j .A])iil 8, 
 j tlic IJantonists, including Danton, Camille Desmoulins, etc.' .April lo, the 
 ■ Atheists, composed of Chaumette, Anacharsis Clootz, the w ives of Camille 
 Desmoulins, of liebcrt.ctc. ; Alav 12, Elisabetli Marie lleienc of France, sister 
 of Louis XVI. : July 28. Itobesp'ierre and his brother, Dumas, St. Just, and 
 Couthon. members of the Committee of Public Safety, with several otliers ; 
 July 29, seventy members of the Commune de Paris; July 30, twelve other 
 nieml)ers. From Jan. 21 , 1793, to May 3, 1795, more than 2800 persons were 
 executed here. — 
 
 Arait, 10, 1814 — The Kussians, Prussians, and .Austrians were reviewed, 
 and Tc Dcum was sung at an altar on this Place. 
 
 Feb. 23, 1 8 48.— The first disturbances that ushered in the memorable re- 
 volution of that year took place here. 
 
 Feb. 24, I 848.— Flight of Louis Philippe and bis family by the western en- 
 trance of the Tuileries Garden. 
 
 Nov. 4. I 848.— The Constitution of the Republic was solemnly proclaimed 
 here, in the presence of the Constituent Assembly. 
 
 The Champs Elysees were formerly covered with small 
 detached houses and gardens, meadows, and arable land. In 
 1616, the queen mother, Marie de Medicis, caused three alleys 
 of trees to be planted, closed at tbe extremities by iron gates. 
 This promenade, intended exclusively for that princess and her 
 court, assumed the name of Cours la Heine, which it still re- 
 tains. It extends along the banks of t he S eine, from which it 
 is separated liy the high road leading to Versailles. On the 
 other side it was divided by ditches from a plain, with which 
 a communication was formed by a small stone bridge. In 
 1670, this plain, which extended to the village ^i Roule, was 
 by order of Colbert planted with trees, interspersed'wiflTgrass 
 plots. The new promenade was first called le Grand Cours, 
 and soon after Avenue des Champs Elysees. Madame de Pom- 
 padour, having become proprietor of the hotel now called 
 the Palais de I’Elysee Napoleon, caused Colbert’s plantation 
 to be cut down ; but after her death, in 17 64, the ground was 
 replanted, several alleys formed, and restaurants and cafes 
 erected. From 1777 to 1780, the ChampsElysees were the fash- 
 ionable promenade. A sequestered avenue in the neighbourhood 
 was called Allee des Veuves, from its being filled in the afternoon 
 with carriages of rich widows in mourning, who, being by 
 custom excluded from the public walks, used to congregate 
 here to I'elicvc their sorrow. In 1814, a Cossack bivouac was 
 established in the Champs Elysees; and, in 1816, the English 
 
 (I) The sea Hold for Ihc execution of Louis XVI. was erected midway between 
 / tbe centre of the place and the horses of Marly; that for Marie Autoinetle, 
 between the centre and the gate of tbe Tuileries. 
 
CHAMPS ELYSEES. 183 
 
 encamped there. In 1818, the walks of the Champs filysees 
 were improved, and young trees planted to replace those de- 
 stroyed during the occupation. At this time an open space 
 called the Carre Marigny was cleared, affording a fine view of 
 the Hotel des Invalides. This spot is now occupied by the 
 
 Palais de l’Industrie. — This palace was built in 1852-55 
 by a company for the purpose of imitating the noble example 
 set by England in 1 851 , when the first Universal Exhibition of 
 all nations was held ; and also to provide a permanent build- 
 ing for the quinquennial Exhibitions of the National Manufac- 
 tures of France (1). It has since been purchased by govern- 
 ment, and is used for exhibitions and agricultural shows. The 
 Imperial Commission for the Great Exhibition of 1867 has its 
 offices here (2). The architect was M. Viel. 
 
 Exterior of the Palace.— The plan of the buildmg is a vast 
 
 (1) The first Exhibition of the kind occurred in Paris on the 
 Champ de Mars in i798. It lasted only a week, and only no 
 exhibito rs availed themselves of the opportunity. Another was 
 held in i 80 i, and boasted 220 exhibitors; in I 802 there were 
 5 40 . The fourth exhibition did not take place until 18 O 6 , when 
 there were 1 122 exhibitors. They were then suspended until I8i9, 
 and others were held in 1823 and i827. From 1834 they be- 
 came quinquennial, their duration being fixed at two months. 
 
 ( 2 ) For this Exhibition a vast elliptical building, 500 metres 
 long by 400 in breadth, is now erecting in the Champ de Mars, 
 at a cost of is, 000,000 fr. It will open on the 1st of April 
 and close the 3 ist of October, i 867. A branch of the railway 
 round Paris will lead to this provisional palace. The Palais de 
 I’lndustirie will be exclusively devoted to the works of living 
 artists oT all nations. This palace, with some additional build- 
 ings, was used for the Great Exhibition of 1855, where England 
 was represented by 2,600 exhibitors. 
 
 During the 198 days the Exhibition lasted, the number of 
 visitors was 4,533,464. The total receipts amounted to 2 , 941,668 
 fr. The Rotunda of the Panorama was reserved for the most 
 precious articles, and for the crown jewels. Of these, the finest 
 is the Regent, purchased, in 171 8, by Philippe 11., Duke of Orleans; 
 it weighs 136 carats, and is valued at about 5,000,000 fr. The 
 precious stones of the State are 64,812 in number, weighing 
 18,751 carats, and worth 20 , 900 , 260 fr. The crown has 5206 
 brilliantts, 146 rose-diamonds, and 59 saphirs, value 14,702,708 fr. 
 Next cQ'mes a swnrd with 1506 roses, valued at 261,165 fr. ; a 
 clasp wfith 217 brilliants, value 273,119 fr. ; a sword with 1576 
 briltianits, value 241,874 fr.; a clasp for a cloak, mounted with an 
 opal vallued at 37,500 fr.; and 197 brilliants worth 30,605 fr.; and 
 a button for the hat, with 21 brilliants, worth 240,700 fr. Among 
 the articles for ladies are four head-dresses, value 1,16.'5,163 fr., 
 293,758 fr., 283,816 fr., and 1 30,820 fr.; a brilliant necklace worth 
 133,900 fr,, and some wheat-ears valued at 191,476 fr. 
 
184 SECOND WALK. 
 
 rectangle, with two projecting central and four corner pavi- 
 lions. The central pavilion facing the Avenue des Champs Ely- 
 sees contains the principal entrance, a lofty arch of forty-five 
 feet span, and measuring sixty feet from the ground to the key- 
 stone. It is flanked with coupled Corinthian columns, above 
 which rises an attic surmounted by a magnificent group by 
 Robert, representing France in the act of awarding laurels to 
 Art and Manufacture. On either side of this group arc genii 
 supporting escutcheons charged with the imperial arms and 
 initials. The frieze below, sculptured in relief by Desboeufs 
 represents the Arts and Manufactures bringing their productions 
 to the exhibition ; under the cornice of the entablature are the 
 words ; A V Industrie et aux Arts. Two figures of Fame by 
 M. Dieboldt, adorn the spandrils of the arch. A propylaeum 
 under the arch contains three doors, giving access to the inte- 
 rior, and surmounted by an arched ^vindow, decorated with a 
 group, in alto-relievo, by Vilain, representing Commerce Agid- 
 culture. Manufacture, aiid Art, over which the imperial’ eagle 
 spreads out its wings. This principal entrance is flanked on 
 either side by two tiers of large arched windows, which are 
 continued all round the building, numbering 598 in all. The 
 spandrils of the upper tier are adorned with escutcheons bear- 
 ing the names of various to\\ms on bars traversant ; those of 
 the lower with medallions displaying the initials of the Empe- 
 ror and Empress, or portraits of eminent men. On the frieze 
 which intervenes between the tiers we read the names of vari- 
 ous celebrated men. Fronting the principal facade are two 
 elegant fountains encircled with flower-beds, and the ground 
 towards the Seine, as indeed the whole of the Champs Rlysees 
 has also been laid out in pleasant walks and grass-plots. 
 
 /nfermr.— Except the outer walls, the main building 
 simple in design, is entirely constructed of iron and roofed 
 with glass. A central rectangular nave, 35 metres in height, with 
 a surface of 192 metres in length and 4 8 in breadth, is sur- 
 rounded by three aisles of an aggregate breadth of 30 metres 
 and formed by four rows of iron columns, 288 in number sup- 
 porting a spacious gallery 30 metres wide, transmitting light to 
 the ground-floor through rectangular skylights. This gallery, 
 to which a splendid three-branched double-staircase in the 
 mam central pavilion, and five other elegant staircases in the 
 corner pd southern pavilions, give access, has 216 columns, 
 supporting the arched roofs both of the nave and aisles. The 
 central roof terminates in two vertical segments, containing 
 two stained glass paintings of indifferent execution, represent- 
 ing France convening all Nations to the Exhibition, and 
 Equity presiding over the Increase of Exchange. 
 
CHAMPS ELYSEES. 185 
 
 Facing the western extremity of this palace a building has 
 been erected by the city for the exhibition of panoramicviews. 
 
 It covers a space of 1,7 50 square metres; the canvas now 
 exhibited, on which episodes of the Italian war are exe- 
 cuted, is 1,680 metres in length. 
 
 The Avenue des Champs Elysees, with its foot-pavements in i 
 bitumen, 12 feet wide, intersects the Champs Flysees ; its j 
 j length is a m^ and ]a quarter. Bisecting the Avenue, is the ' 
 Rond PomT,' a circular spate, surrounded by six basins embel- 
 lished with shrubs and flowers, from which the rues Montaigne 
 and Matignon branch out to the north, and the Allees d’Antin 
 and des Veuves (now called Avenue Montaigne) to the south, 
 intersecting the Cours la Reine. The Avenue de Marigny, 
 nearly opposite to the Palais de V Industrie, leads to the Elysee 
 Napoleon (see p. 190.) 
 
 By far the most animated part of the Champs Elysees is the 
 Avenue des Champs Elysees, which is the favourite walk of 
 the gay Parisians. On Sundays and holidays in particular 
 1 the shopkeeper and workman may be seen here jostling the 
 lion of the boulevards, while aristocratic velvets and cashmere 
 shawls meet in close contact with humble merinos and coarse 
 tartans. Under the groves are toy and gingerbread stalls, 
 jeux de bagues, and other attractions for the rising generation ; 
 jugglers and itinerant tumblers attract a willing and ever- 
 changing crowd of spectators, while Punch squeaks his secular 
 jokes to his delighted juvenile audience. On sunny winter- 
 days, or cool summer-evenings, numerous parties of all classes | 
 are seen, enjoying the lively spectacle before them, seated ( 
 on iron chairs hired for 3 or 4 sous, or on the wooden benches | 
 placed at intervals on the sides of the avenue, while elegant 
 carriages roll in procession along the road. Handsome coffee- 
 houses, scattered among the trees on either side, attract the 
 loiterer by their cheerful lights, varied refreshments, and vocal 
 and instrumental music. In the northern grove is the Cirque 
 de V Imperatrice, devoted to feats of horsemanship; and facing 
 it, the Folies Marigny, a small theatre for vaudevilles, pan- 
 i tomimes, etc. The former only open in summer. There are 
 several elegant fountains, some surrounded with flower-beds, 
 under each of the groves. The effect of the double line of lamps, ( 
 
 ; along the carriage-road, after dark is splendid. The Jar- ^ 
 din Mabille, in the Avenue Montaigne, and the Chdteau des 
 Fleurs, (1) near the Arc de I’Etoile, are somewhat like the 
 Cremorne Gardens. Beyond the Rond Point there is the 
 
 (0 It was right opposite to this place, in the Avenue, that 
 an odious attempt on the life of the present Emperor took 
 place (April 28th, i 85 b.) His Majesty was passing on horseback. 
 
186 SECOND WALK. 
 
 splendid mansion of Count Lehon. The public fetes are 
 held in the Champs Elysees ; (1) and here also takes place 
 the celebrated annual Promenade do Longchamp, on the Wed- 
 nesday, Thursday, and Friday of Passion Week, extending 
 into the Bois de Boulogne. The carriages, which on these 
 days are much more numerous, proceed in line up one side 
 of the Grande Allee, and down the other. (2) 
 
 The Avenue d’Antin leads to the Pont des Invalides. 
 In the Cours la Beinc to the right, we see a house displaying 
 decorations by Jean Goujon from a seat which Francis I. 
 built at Moret, near Fontainebleau, in 1527, for his sister Mar- 
 garet. It bears the following inscription : 
 
 Qui scit frenare linguam, sensumquc ctoinare, 
 
 Fortior est illo qui frangit viribus urbes. 
 
 Inst. 1528, et rest. 1826. 
 
 The frieze over the ground floor is adorned with bacchanalian 
 bas-reliefs, and with 7 medallions bearing the portraits of 
 Louis XII., Anne de Bretagne, Francis II., Marguerite de Na- 
 varre, Henri II., Diane de Poitiers, and Francis 1. Numerous 
 
 when the assassin Pianori, alias Liverani, approached, as if to 
 present a petition, and, taking off his hat, drew a double-bar- 
 relled pistol from his bosom and discharged it at the Emperor. 
 Eye-witnesses state that His Majesty, without displaying the 
 slightest emotion, immediately turned his horse towards the 
 assassin, who was in the act of making his escape, and rode 
 after him, when Pianori was seized, wliile drawing another pis- 
 tol from his pocket, by a Corsican police-ofticer, named Ales- 
 sandri, and after a struggle, during which the captor had to in- 
 flict a wound upon him with a poniard, was at length secured 
 by the aid of other people who had hastened to the spot. 
 
 (1) The City clears 50,000 fr. a-year from the rents paid for 
 the places of amusement and refreshment. The owners of the 
 chairs let to the public pay 12,000 fr. a-year. 
 
 (2) In the Bois de Boulogne, an abbey, called Abbaye de Long- 
 champ, was founded in i 26 i, by Isabella of France, sister of St. 
 Louis, of which little notice was taken till the middle of the 
 eighteenth century, when a melodious choir of nuns attracted 
 the attention of amateurs. The churclf of the abbey was fre- 
 quented, and in Passion Week it became the fashion for the 
 haut ton to attend it in state. As the sums collected were 
 very considerable, and might be still further augmented, the 
 principal singers of the Opera were invited to assist in chanting 
 the lamentations and Tenebrce. This attraction however gra- 
 dually passed away, the church of Longchamp was deserted, 
 but the Parisian nobility still flocked to the Bois de Boulogne. 
 The early scenes of the revolution of 17 89 suspended for a while 
 this annual pageant, until after the i8th Brupiaire, when the 
 promenade of Longchamp was resumed 
 
palais POMPEIEN. 187 
 
 escutcheons adorn the other parts. Close to this is an elegant 
 hotel, belonging to Mme, Alhoni, the celebrated singer. (1) 
 
 The next object of interest we meet is the 
 Pont de l’Alma, finished in 1856 at a cost of 1,200,000 
 francs. It has three stone arches, and elegant balustrades 
 Its piers are adorned with four statues, representing a zouave, 
 a soldier of the line, an artilleryraan, and a chasseur ; the 
 Iwo former hy Dieholdt, and the latter by Arnaud. 
 
 Proceeding a few steps into the Avenue de Montaigne oppo- 
 site, we see, at No. 20, Prince Soltikoff’s mansion, in the 
 taste of the middle ages, and at No. 18 the 
 Palais Pompeien.- This small palace was built by Prince 
 Napoleon in tbe style of tbe bouse of Diomedes, at Pompeii, 
 after tbe designs of M. Normand. It has now been purchased 
 by the Count de Quinsonas for purposes of speculation, the 
 galleries and museum being open to the public daily from 12 
 to 6, p.m., at a charge of one franc. It is also used for 
 concerts. It is fronted by an iron railing ; the principal 
 entrance is under a composite portico, with its frieze display- 
 ing the initials of the Prince. The narrow windows above 
 the portico denote the place of the gyneceum Right and left 
 stand the bronze statues of Acbilles and Minerva. On the floor 
 of the portico is the Ggure of a dog, with the motto Cave 
 Canem ! On entering the vestibule we see the Goddess Pan- 
 thaea, painted on a panel to the right of the entrance of the 
 atrium, and the Goddess Hygada to the left, under the form of 
 a serpent. The lateral walls are painted in compartments 
 representing the seasons, interspersed with birds, animals, etc., 
 all borrowed from the antique paintings of Pompeii. To the 
 right of the vestibule is the staircase. The atrium, or inner court, 
 is rectangular ; its sides running parallel to those of a central 
 basin of white marble, tbe impluvium of the ancients. At the 
 four corners of this basin four composite columns support a rich 
 entablatui-e running all round, and bordering a terrace above, 
 thus forming the compluvium, which, however, contrary to 
 the custom of the Ancients, is here glazed over. Benches of 
 white marble stand between the columns ; the floor here and 
 in the other rooms is paved with marble lozenges of three 
 colours, while, y ellow, and black. Several busts, copies from 
 the antique, here supply the place of the Majorum Species, or 
 effigies of the ancestors, among the ancients. The walls are 
 covered with frescoes, the subjects of which are borrowed from 
 
 (G A railway for omnibuses drawn by horses, and carrying 
 50 passengers, at a small charge, according 1o distance, extends 
 along the Cours la Heine, from the Place de la Concorde to the 
 hois de Boulogne, St. Cloud and Versailles, 
 
188 SECOND WALK. 
 
 Hesiod’s r/ieo^onm, and are distributed in six compartments be- 
 sides the friezes. They represent the Revoltof the Titans, Ntnaesis, 
 and the Fates ; Phoebus ascending into the heavens on a car drawn 
 by four horses ; the Triumph of Neptune and Amphritrite ; 
 iEneas carrying his father Anchises ; the triumphs of Bacchus 
 and Ceres ; Venus rising from the sea ; Minerva issuing from 
 the head of Jupiter ; Prometheus creating man ; Venus and 
 Cupid uniting Paris and Helen. All these paintings, as well as 
 those of the vestibule, are by M. Cornu. A door to the right 
 leads to the dining-room, ornamented in the Pompeian style ; 
 the door opposite, to the library ; and that in front, to the 
 drawing-room, elegantly painted in imitation of rosso anlico. 
 From this a glass-door opens into the Jardin d'hiver, an ele- 
 gant glazed room, communicating with the garden. A door 
 to the right opens into a boudoir. Adjoining w'as Princess 
 Clotilda’s bed-room. Next follows a Turkish bath-room, 
 preceded by a toilet-room, with Arabic inscriptions. On the 
 opposite side of the Jardin d’hiver was the Prince’s study, 
 now arranged as a reading-room ; next follows the Salle de 
 gymnastique, with fancy arms, a bath-room adjoining, with 
 a large basin for swimming in winter, and lastly a bed-room 
 formerly inhabited by the Prince, and another apartment 
 which contained his picture gallery. 
 
 Continuing along the Quai de Billy, we see at No. 4 (he 
 
 POMPE A FEU DE CuAiLLOT, for supplying the lakes cf the 
 Bois de Boulogne and various fountains with Seine water. 
 Erected in 1778, by Messrs. Perier, it now possesses a gi- 
 gantic reservoir having a surface of c,000 square metres, and 
 a capacity of 25,000 cubic metres ; above which rise two other 
 basins resting on pillars, of a capacity of 1,200 cubic metres. 
 
 At Nos. 32-30, are the Subsistances Militaires, a general 
 bakehouse and storehouse of provisions for the garrison. The 
 daily ration of bread to each soldier is I'/db. Further on is the 
 
 Pont de Jena. — This bridge, begun in 1806, after the de- 
 signs of M. Dillon, and under the direction of M. Lamande, 
 was completed in 1813. It stands opposite the Ecole Mili- 
 taire, and forms a communication between the Quai de Billy 
 and the Champ de Mars (see p. 333). It consists of five ellip- 
 tical arches, and is 460 feet between the abutments. (1) It has a 
 cornice, imitated from the temple of Mars at Rome, and wreaths 
 of laurel and oak, encircling the imperial eagle, adorn the 
 piers. At the extremities of the parapets are 4 colossal groups, 
 
 (i) This bridge, named after the famous liallle, .was 
 threatened with destruction in 1814. By intercession of the 
 Duke of Wellington it was spared, and called Pont des Invalides, 
 Bince 1830 it has again resumed its original name. 
 
PASSY AND AUTEUIL. jgg 
 
 representing a Greek, a Roman, a Gaul, and an Arab, eacli 
 checking a spirited horse, executed respectively by MM. De- 
 vaulx, Daumas, Preault, and the late M. Feucheres. 
 
 An elevated plateau, on the hill side, opposite the Pont de 
 Jena, called the Trocadero, once the garden of a convent, was 
 the intended site of a marble palace for the King of Rome. It 
 has now been levelled and intersected by boulevards. 
 
 The visitor may here ascend the hill and turn to the right 
 into the rue des Batailles. But if he be a determined pedes- 
 trian, he may enjoy a delightful walk by visiting 
 
 Passy, a charming village now annexed to Paris, and re- 
 markable for its salubrious air, extensive views and delight- 
 ful villas. A few steps along the Quay will bring him to No. 
 32, where a ferruginous spring, of some note, rises in a 
 garden. A large quantity of this water is bottled for sale. 
 The lane close by leads into the rue Basse, where Franklin re- 
 sided in 1788, at No. 40 ; a continuation of this street has 
 received his name. At Passy the famous Abbe Raynal died 
 in 1796 ; Piccini, the rival of Gluck, in 1803 ; and Bellini, the 
 composer, in 1834. Lamartine, Rossini, and Mme. Grisi have 
 built houses here, and since its annexation to Paris in I860, 
 many an elegant villa has sprung up at Passy. 
 
 Continuing westward, the stranger will find Boulain- 
 vilUers, a village merged into Passy. Here is the 
 Matson d' Arret de la Garde Nationale, an establishment 
 jocosely called the Hdtel des Haricots, a corruption of H6tel 
 Darricau, the site of the old prison having formerly belonged 
 to the General of that name. Punishments (for neglect or 
 breach of discipline) seldom exceed 48 hours here. Further 
 on we find 
 
 Auteuil, another pretty village annexed to Paris, studded 
 with villas like Passy. It was founded in the 7 th century by 
 the inhabitants of a village called Nimio, given to the Bishop 
 of Le Mans by Clotaire II. It was the favourite retreat of Ra- 
 c , La Fontaine, Chapelle, Franklin, Uelvetius, Cabanis, 
 Condorcet, Count Rumford, and other eminent men. An obe- 
 lisk on the square before the church commemorates the resi- 
 dence and death of the Chancellor d’Aguesseau. The church 
 itself is an old semi-Gothic pile ; it contains some old stained 
 glass and a good sepulchral bas-relief in white marble. Behind 
 the church, in the Place St. Genevieve, No. 4, is the Insti- 
 tution de !Ste. Ferine (see p. 118). Moliere composed some 
 of his works in the street hard by, which has received his 
 name ; and continuing along the Grande Rue, we shall find 
 the rue Boileau, where No. 18 was inhabited by the great 
 satirist. The railroad round Paris here skirts the fortifica- 
 
190 SECOND WALK. 
 
 tions(l) on a splendid and curious viaduct designed by M. 
 de Bassonipierre, which will excite admiration It ci’osses 
 the Seine on a bridge of five arches, flanked on both sides 
 with a carriage-road and foot-pavement, between which, and 
 extending far beyond both banks of the river, there rises a 
 series of 226 arches, supporting the railway, and forming a 
 length of two kilometres. It merges into the Auteuil line. 
 
 Taking a ticket for Passy, the visitor, on alighting, will see 
 the beautiful garden of the CluxtGctu ds la once Grown 
 
 property, but now belonging to the widow of M. Erard, the 
 piano-forte manufacturer. To the right of the Railway- 
 station, at No. 15, is the office of the Director of the Public 
 Walks’, where tickets may be obtained to visit the great 
 Horticultural Establishment of the City, at 137, Avenue 
 d'Eylau. This establishment, covering 44,000 square metres, 
 contains 24 conservatories and 3,000 hotbeds, representing a 
 glazed surface of 10,000 sq. metres. Here all kinds of orna- 
 mental plants and trees for the public walks and gardens of 
 Paris are reared under the care of 50 workmen. It is well 
 worthy of a visit. The new Avenue de I’Empereur here 
 crosses the Avenue d'Eylau, where we find the 
 Artesian Well of Passy, commenced in 1855, under the 
 direction of M. Kind. Water was found on the 26 th of May, 
 1861 ; but the work was persevered in until Sept. 24th, when 
 the supply at once rose to 5,000,000 gallons in 24 hours ; 
 it now yields 3 , 08 o ,000 gallons, and feeds the lakes of the 
 Bois de Boulogne conjointly with the Pompe de Chaillot. Its 
 waters are impregnated with iron and sulphur (see p. 334.) 
 
 The Avenue d'Eylau is skirted by various cheerful villas. 
 At a circular space with a fountain in the centre we find the 
 Hippodrome for equestrian performances (see p. 47 2), and a 
 small church built in the Lombard style. A number of 
 streets branch out from this Rond-point ; by one of these, tlie 
 rue des Bassins for instance, the stranger may descend into the 
 rue de Chaillot (2), where at No. 50 he will see the church of 
 St. Pierre de Ghaii.lot, the oldest part of which is the 
 choir, of the 15th century. It has five sides, and its ribs unite 
 in a sculptured pendant. It is painted in the Byzantine style ; 
 the windows are adorned with sacred sulijects in modern stained 
 glass. The paintings in the aisles are the Flight to Egypt, by 
 
 (1) The large unilnislied building bordering on this railway 
 is intended for a permanent Universal Exliibiiion Palace. 
 
 (2) The village of Chaillot was anciently called C/iai7, (which 
 ancient deeds Iranslate by destructio arhorum) and was declared 
 a suburb of Paris in 1659, under the name of Faubourg de la Con- 
 ference. The village formed part of the royal domains. 
 
ARC DE TRIOMPHE. 191 
 
 Vignaud; Peter restoring Tabithato life, by Smith ; the Adora- 
 tion of the Magi, by Gosse ; and St. Peter delivered from prison, 
 by Dubusc. At the entrance of the choir are two angels in fresco 
 by Hesse ; over its arch, the Adoration of God, by Debay. 
 
 The Chapel Marboeuf (Church of England), lo bis, Avenue 
 Marboeuf, opened in 1824, is a chaste specimen of the pointed 
 style. The interior consists of a nave, with an oaken gallery 
 on iron pillars. The chapel is well attended (see p. 115 .) 
 
 The rue Galilee was called in 1848 the rue du Banquet, 
 from the ever-memorable banquet prepared in General Thiars's 
 grounds, on Feb. 22, and the prevention of which ushered in 
 the revolution of that year. At the corner of that street in 
 the avenue Josephine is a white marble statue of the Empress 
 Josephine. 
 
 THIRD ITjLLT. 
 
 This comprises the eighth arrondissement, with a fraction of 
 the 17th. We may commence it Avith the Place de VEloile, 
 a vast circular space which bids fair to become in course of 
 time the most fashionable quarter of Paris. It is partly sur- 
 rounded by a series of elegant houses, of a uniform design, 
 and fronted with gardens, to be continued all round. Behind 
 these houses runs a circular street, concentric with the 
 Place, with houses of more modest pretensions. From the 
 Place twelve magnificent avenues branch out in different di- 
 rections ; of these the principal are the Avenue des Champs 
 Elysees, already described, the Avenue de la Grande Armee 
 which continues it, the Avenue d'Eylau mentioned in the 
 Second Walk, and the Avenue de V Impdratrice, leading to 
 the Bois de Boulogne (see p. 486). The others bear the 
 names of Avenues du Roi de Rome, de Jena, de I’Alrna, Jo- 
 sephine, etc. In the centre of this magniQcent spot rises the 
 , Arc de Triompiie de l’Etoile. — The idea of this proud 
 monument originated with Napoleon, who decreed its erection 
 in 1806, and the first stone was laid on the 15th of August of 
 that year M. Chalgrin furnished the designs. (1) After the 
 death of Chalgrin in 1811, M. Goust continued his plans, but 
 in 1814 the works were entirely suspended, until, in 1823, 
 after the campaign of the Duke d’Angouleme in Spain, it was 
 determined to finish the arch in honour of his victories, and 
 Messrs. Iluyot and Goust were charged with its completion. 
 
 (1) On the marriage of Napoleon 1. with Maria Louisa, and her 
 triumphal entry into the capital, there was a model in wood 
 and canvas of this arch erected and brilliantly illuminated. 
 
% 
 
 192 THIRD WALK. 
 
 In 1828, the entablature was finished, but the whole Was not 
 completed until July, 1836. The total cost was 10,432,800 
 francs or £417,812. The monument consists of a vast 
 central arch, 90ft. in height by 45ft. in width, over which 
 rises a bold entablature and an attic. Tliere is also a trans- 
 versal arch, 57ft. high and 25ft. wide ; the total height of the 
 structure is 152ft., its breadth and depth are 137ft. and 68ft. 
 respectively. The fronts of the building are towards the Champs 
 Elysees and Neuilly. Each pier of the principal fronts is orna- 
 mented with a projecting pedestal, supporting groups of 
 figures, in alto-rilievo. The spandrils and frieze are enriched 
 with reliefs, and the attic is divided into compartments with 
 circular shields, each inscrilied with the name of some great 
 victory. The internal sides of all the piers are inscribed with 
 the names of 96 victories ; under the transversal arches with 
 the names of generals. The northern pier of the eastern front 
 bears a group, by Rude, representing the departure of the 
 armv in 1792 the Genius of W^ar summons the nation to 
 armL The dimensions of this and the other groups are in 
 total height 36ft., and each figure 18ft. The next group, by 
 Cortot, represents the triumph of 1810; Victory crowning 
 Napoleon. Fame surmounts the whole, and History records 
 his deeds ; vanquished towns are at his feet. The groups of 
 the western front, both by Etex, represent: 1. the resistance 
 of the French nation to the invading armies in 1814 ; a young 
 man is seen defending his wife, his children, and his father ; 
 a warrior is falling slain from his horse ; and the Genius of 
 the Future encourages them to action, 2. the peace of 1815 ; 
 a warrior is seen sheathing his sword ; another is taming a 
 bull for purposes of agriculture, while a mother and children 
 are seated at their feet, and Minerva shedding over them her 
 protecting influence. (1) The most admired ornaments of 
 this arch are the alti-rilievi of the compartments above the 
 impost-cornice ; they are chiefly valuable as faithful repre- 
 sentations of the uniforms of the time. The southern 
 compartment of the eastern side represents the surrender 
 of Mustapha Pacha at the battle of Aboukir, by M. Seurre, 
 sen. The principal figures of these compartments are about 
 9ft, high. The northern compartment of the same side 
 is filled with a group of the death of General Marceau, by M. 
 Leraaire. Above the arch and impost-cornice of the northern side 
 of the monument is the battle of Austerlitz, by Jechter. On 
 the western front, the northern alto-rilievo is the taking of 
 Alexandria, by Chaponnicre. The other group is the pass^e 
 of the bridge of Areola, by Feuchcres. On the southern side 
 (1) M. Etex was paid 140,000 fr. for the two groups! 
 
ARC DE TRIOMPHE DE L’eTOILE. I93 
 
 of the building is a representation of the battle of Jemmapes 
 by Marocchetti. Behind General Diimouriez is a 'portrait of 
 Louis Philippe, then Duo de Chartres. The figures of Fame in 
 the spandrils of the main arch on each side are by M. Pradier. 
 They are 1 8ft. in height. The frieze is occupied on the e istern' 
 and on half of the northern and southern sides, by the departure 
 of the armies ; tlie deputies of the nation, grouped round the 
 altar of the country, distribute flags to the troops. There are 
 portraits of all the great characters of the epoch 1790-2 in- 
 cluded in this composition. The corresponding portions of the 
 frieze on the other sides of the building represent the return of 
 the armies, who offer the fruit of their victories to ret^ener- 
 ated France. This long composition is the work of several 
 artists — Messrs. Brun, Laitie, Jacquot, Gaillouette, Seurre, and 
 Rude. The series of shields, thirty in number, inscribed each 
 with a victory, on the attic above the entablature, begins with 
 Valmy, and ends with Ligny. The spandrils of the transversal 
 arches represent the infantry and cavalry of the French armies 
 by Messrs. Bra and Valois respectively ; and on their interior 
 spandrils are the artillery and the marine, by Messrs. De Bay 
 and Seurre. The groups on the other arches represent the 
 conquests of the armies of the North, East, West, and South • 
 the names of the Generals are placed beneath, nulnherin" alto- 
 gether 384. Winding staircases in the two eastern” piers 
 lead to several halls; the last contains in one of the cross 
 vaults the following inscription • — 
 
 Ce monument, commence en 18O6, en I’honneur de la Grande 
 Armtie, longfemps inlerrompu, conlinii (5 en 1323 avec une d.5- 
 dieacc nonvelle, a ele acheve en 1836. 
 
 qui I’a consacre ii la gloire des Armies Franfaises ‘ ’ 
 
 Before 1852, the blank contained these words- '‘Pirie-^; 
 Louis Philippe I c” ’ 
 
 From the platform at the top of the arch one of the finest 
 views of Paris and its environs may be en oyed The total 
 number of steps is 27 2. The monument is open till dusk A 
 small fee is given by parties ascending to the top. ‘ 
 
 From the Arc de I’Etoile, the Avenue de la Grande Arm^e 
 leads to the Neinlly gate. Immediately outside the fortifier 
 lions, on the left hand, is the Porte Maillot, one of the 0 .^" 
 cipal entrances to the Bois de Boulogne (see p. 4 80) and Ti 
 No. 10 , in the Route de la Revolte, opposite, is the 
 
 CuAi-F.i, OF St. Feriunani), the scene of ’tht melam-hnlv 
 death of the Duke of Orleans, on 13th .July, 1842 . d) The 
 
 (t) A brief nolice of this sad even! will not be deemed irre 
 levant m ibis place. The Duke left Paris in the forenoon TJ a' 
 light open carnage, with a postilion, intending to take leave of 
 
 13 
 
194 THIRD WALK. 
 
 house in which the Duke expired, with some adjoining property, 
 being purchased by the crown, Messrs. Letranc and Fontaine, 
 archTtects, erected on its site the present chapel, dedicated to 
 St. Ferdinand, which was begun on August 21, 1842, and 
 consecrated on July 1 1 following, in the presence of the royal 
 family, by the Archbishop of Paris, the same who felt in the 
 insurrection of June 1848. The building, 60 feet long by 
 20 in height, is of stone, surmounted by a cross, and is in 
 the Lombard’ Gothic style, resembling an ancient mausoleum. 
 On the hi‘^h altar is a Descent from the Cross, in marble, by 
 Triquetti. On the left is another altar, dedicated to St. Fer- 
 dinand, and corresponding to it on the right is a marble group 
 representing the Prince on his death-bed, and kneeling at 
 his head is an angel in fervent supplication, as if imploring 
 the divine commiseration on the sufferer. The monogram MO 
 reveals that this beautiful ‘ ‘ spirit” was the work of his deceased 
 sister the Princess Marie, who little thought for whose tomb she 
 was e’xecuting it ! The remainder of the group is by Triquetti, 
 after a drawing of M. Ary Scheffer. Underneath is a bas-relief 
 representing France leaning over a funereal urn, deploring her 
 great loss ; the French flag is at her feet. This monument stands 
 on the spot where the Prince breathed his last. Three circular 
 windows corresponding to the sides of the cross represent respec- 
 tively Faith, Hope, and Charity, in stained glass. The 
 remaining 14 pointed windows represent, in stained glass 
 also, the°patron saints of the different members of the Royal 
 family, viz. •• in front St. Amelia and St. Ferdinand ; St. Louis 
 and St! Philip the Apostle ; in the transept to the right St. Helen 
 and St. Henry ; in that to the left St, Rupert and St. Charles 
 Borroraeo; in the nave to the right St. Francis of Assise, St. 
 Adelaide, and St. Raphael; to the left St. Anthony of Padua, 
 St. Rosalie, and St. Clement of Alexandria. Descending a few 
 the royal family at Neuilly, and then to proceed to the camp at 
 St. Omer. As he approached the Porte Maillot, the horses took 
 fri*ght. The postilion seeming to lose his command over them, 
 the Duke called out, “ Are you master of your horses?” “ Sir, 
 I guide them,” was the reply. After a few minutes the Duke 
 again said, “ I am afraid you cannot hold them.” The answer 
 was, “ I cannot. Sir.” The Duke then endeavoured to get out 
 of the carriage, hut, his feet becoming entangled in his cloak, 
 he was precipitated to the ground, and his head was dread- 
 fully fractured. He was conveyed to the house of M. Lecordier, 
 a grocer, where at lo minutes past 4 o’clock of the same after- 
 noon he breathed his last, undonscious of the grief that sur- 
 rounder him, aud apparently without pain. The royal family, 
 with the exception of the Queen of the Belgians, the Prince de 
 Joinville then at Naples, and the Duchess of Orleans, who was 
 at Plombidres, were witnesses of this heart-rending scene. 
 
CEIAPELLE DE ST. FERDINAND. 
 
 Steps ])ehind the altar of the Virgin, the visitor wiH find hiinself 
 in the sacristy of the chapel. Low oaken presses and a confes 
 sional of the simplest construction, a chair and praver-desk co 
 vered with black, and an ivory crucifix, form its onlv furm- 
 ture. Opposite the door is a picture of the size of life by M 
 G. Jacquand, representing the death scene. In the centre is the 
 Duke stretched on a bed, his head supported by the physicians • 
 his father is kneeling opposite, eyeing him with tlie stunor of 
 grief. The Queen and Princess Clementine are kneeling be 
 side the bed, while the Dukes of Aumale and Montnen- 
 sier. Marshals Soult and Gerard, and the Cure of Neuillv 
 form an affecting group on the left. The other persons 
 present are Generals Atthalin, Gourgaud, de Rumi-nV tlie' 
 Due Pasquier, M. Martin (du Nord), and M Guim/’ Dr 
 Paquet is supporting the head of the patient. Next to him is 
 Dr. Destouches, remarkable for his resemblance to M Thiws 
 In front of the Chapel, and separated from it by kn weir 
 court, are four rooms, where the late royal family used to. 
 meet Of these only one is visible now, the others'bein- 
 inhabited by the priest entrusted with the service of tho 
 Chapel. Here are seen a richly embroidered cushion ex- 
 pressly made for the consecration of the Chapel and neve- 
 used since; a clock m a black marble case surmounted bv an 
 urn marking lo minutes past four, the time of the Duke’s 
 death ; and a second clock surmounted by a bronze figure re- 
 piesenting Trance leaning over a broken column in the attitude- 
 of mourning; it marks lo minutes to 12, the hour at which 
 the Prince fell. On. the column arc the initials F P 0 ami 
 the date, July 13 1842. Here is also a pirogue brought over 
 frwi Brazil by the Due de Joinville, as a present to the Due- 
 d Orleans ; it was bought in by order of his widow at the- 
 sale of the Orleans property, A hemicycle of cypresses, facin- 
 the court is graced with a cedar-tree, brought from Mount 
 I.ebanon by the Duke of Orleans, then Duke of Chartres and 
 transplanted here by his son, the Count of Paris. Admission 
 daily from lo to 4 ; a fee is expected. 
 
 In the adjoining Avetiue des Terms, at the corner of the 
 rue d Arraaille, we find the Eglise St. Ferdinand. The 
 facade is m the Lombard style, with a square belfry' ending 
 in a spire. The interior is Doric, and consists of a nave and 
 two aisles. Architect M. Lequeux. 
 
 Further down, a new circular fountain occupies the centre 
 of a square formed on the site of the old Barriere At Nn 
 157, rue du Faubourg St. Honore, is the 
 
 Chapelle de Beaujon, — creetedin 1780, by Nicholas B«an- 
 jon, receiver of the finances, who in 1784 founded the 
 
j 96 third walk. 
 
 HoPitAL BfiAUJON, No. 208, nearly opposite, for 24 or- 
 phans of the parish du Route, 12 boys and 12 girls, endowing 
 it with 20 000 livres annually. The Convention converted 
 it into an ’hospital, under the name of llopital du lloule. 
 The council-'^eneral of hospitals restored its former name, but 
 not its primitive destination. The original building, constructed 
 after the desi°-ns of Girardin, is 90 feet in length towards the 
 street by 144 in depth, and has a ground floor, with three 
 storie’s. Strangers may visit it daily from 2 to 4 (see p. 139). 
 
 At No. 2 1, rue de Berri, is the Ameiucan Chapel, a tasteful 
 Gothic building ; and, returning to the rue du Faubourg St. 
 Honore, a few steps will bring him to the church of 
 
 St Philippe, built by Ghalgrin in 17 84. The front con- 
 sists of 4 Doric columns crowned by a pediment, adorned with 
 a fl'^ure of Religion in alto-rilievo. In the interior, 104 feet 
 lon° by 7 8 in breadth, 10 Ionic columns separate the nave 
 from the aisles and 0 more enclose the choir, liehind which 
 is the chapel of the Virgin, painted by Jacquand, in com- 
 partments (1). The semi-cupola of the choir is adorned with 
 a fresco by M. Chasseriau, representing the Descent from the 
 Cross The altar is of white marble, with bas-reliefs, by the 
 Abbe Ro<^er in three compartments, representing the Sacrifice 
 of Abraham’ Jesus accepting the instruments of the Passion, and 
 the Entombment. On the sides are Moses, Aaron. St. Philip, 
 and St James. The Martyrdom of St. James, by Degeorge, 
 and Matthew the Evangelist, by Leloir, are in the aisles. 
 
 At No. 24, rue de Courcelles, is the mansion of Princess 
 Matilda, lately the property of Queen Christina of Spam. 
 
 Further on, in the semicircular Place Beauveau, is the 
 hotel of that ’name, occupied by the Home-office, and nearly 
 opposite, in the rue du Faubourg St. Honore, 55, is the 
 
 Palais de l’^lysee Napoleon.— This hotel, constructed in 
 1718 after the designs of Molet, for the Count d’Evreux, was 
 afterwards nurchased and occupied by Madame de Pompadour, 
 mistress of Louis XV. At her death Louis XV. bought it of 
 the Marquis de Marigny. In 1773, M. Beanjon, the banker, en- 
 larged and embellished it, after whose death the Duchess of 
 
 (C The subiect« are, beginning from the left t . The Adora- 
 tion of the Virgin: 2. Christ disputing in the Temple ; 3. tlie 
 Holv Fimilv 4. '.he Visit to Eli/.aheth ; 3. the Education of 
 Christ •’ e the Diath of the Virgin ; 7. Mater Dolorosa ; 8. 
 “ Wist’ ve not tlut I must be about my Father’s business^ 
 (Luke ii 49); Egypt; lo. the Virgin the 
 
 Refu-^e of Sinners. Each of these subjects is surmounted by an 
 angel with some attribute, and the semi-cupola represents 
 Christ crowning tl e Virgin. 
 
liLYSte NAPOLEON. J97 
 
 Bourbon purchased and occupied it till 1790. In 1792, it was 
 declared national property, and in the following year was used 
 as the governnaent printing-office. In 1 800 it was sold, and con- 
 verted into a place of public entertainment. Murat bought 
 it in 1804, and resided there until his departure for Naples, 
 when it again became the property of the government, and was 
 a favourite residence of Napoleon I. In 1814 and 1815 it 
 was inhabited by the Emperor of Russia, and by the Duke of 
 Wellington. When Napoleon returned from Elba, he occupied 
 it until after the defeat of Waterloo. In 1816, Louis XVIII. 
 gave it to the Duke de Berri, on whose assassination it de- 
 scended to the Duke de Bordeaux, and now again belongs to 
 the State. It was the official residence of the present Emperor, 
 while President of the French Republic. This palace has lately 
 received important additions, and been completely insulated 
 by the opening of a new street on its eastern side, on the site 
 once occupied by Marshal Sebastiani’s palace. The Porte 
 d’Honneur, or entrance-gate facing the street, is flanked 
 by two side-doors, and adorned with eight Ionic columns 
 supporting an arch with the Imperial arms. There are 
 five courts, ot which the principal one, called the Cour 
 d’Honneur, leads to the entrance of the palace, adorned 
 with a portico of four Doric columns, supporting a Corinthian 
 one on the upper story. A broad flight of steps overspread 
 by a verandah, gives access to a vestibule containing a statue 
 of Apollo, and opening into the suite of apartments on the ground 
 floor, commencing with a dining-room 50 feet by 20, orna- 
 mented with Corinthian columns and pilasters richly gilt. The 
 walls of this apartment are painted by Dunouy with landscapes, 
 some of the figures of which are by Veriiet, and were executed 
 for Murat. The views represented are • the Pyramids of Egypt, 
 the passing of the Tiber, the Chateau de Benrad, on the Rhine, 
 near Dusseldorf, once occupied by Murat (the carriage in the 
 foreground contains Murat’s children), and a view of the cha- 
 teau de Neuilly , at that time also Murat’s property ; a female 
 figure in the foreground is said to be a good portrait of Mme. 
 
 , Murat, the sister of Napoleon. This room gives access to a 
 Ball-room of recent erection, in the new wing of the palace, 
 towards the Avenue de Marigny. It is of Corinthian archi- 
 tecture, with a coved ceiling, the corners of which are adorned 
 i with eagles supporting escutcheons charged with the monogram 
 ' N.E. It has six lofty arched windows looking into the garden, 
 and corresponding to them, on the opposite wall, are as many 
 mirrors of equal size and form, while another colossal one oc- 
 cupies the wall opposite to the entrance. Returning to the 
 Dining-room, a door to the left leads to the State-apartments. 
 
THIKD WALK. 
 
 198 
 
 The Salle de Rece:ption Avas used by Napoleon I. as a council- 
 chamber. Adjoining is the Chambre de Napoleom I. This 
 was his favourite bed-room, where he last slept in lP;aris after 
 the battle of Waterloo. Next comes the Salle des Som'.verains, 
 iormerly the Salon de Travail, where Napoleon I. ssiigned his 
 last abdication. Here Her Majesty Queen Victoria jpartook of 
 a splendid collation on the 20th Aug. 1855. In a iro)om ad- 
 joining is a record of the international festival givcem by the 
 Court of Aldermen in 18 51. (1) From the grand vestibule' 
 the principal staircase leads to the apartments of the upipier story, 
 which, under the able direction of M. Eugene Lacroiix, the ar- 
 chitect of the palace, has become a gem of elog;ance and 
 splendour. In the first room the eminent landscap(e painter, 
 M. Gallier, has added some of his finest pieces cof Italian 
 scenery to the landscapes of Houel, a distinguished jpainter of 
 the last century. The following saloons, progresssively in-* 
 creasing in richness and decoration, are now awaitiing the ar- 
 tistical tapestry executing at the Gobelins, which is tio fill their 
 gorgeous frames. From the central saloon of this story, three , 
 arcades afford a view of the charming scenery of thie garden, 
 which is reflected like a well conceived picture in the large 
 mirrors covering the wall opposite. All the panels ;are richly 
 decorated with arabesques and garlands on a gold gnound, en- 
 compassing figures of women and children, symbolising the 
 four seasons. These subjects, remarkable for theii" graceful 
 attitudes, purity of outline, and suavity of colour aud finish, 
 are due to the gifted pencil of M. Gariot, who has surpassed 
 himself in the conscientious execution of this work . In the 
 next saloon the same system of arabesques has been continued, 
 but softened down, so that they may harmonize with the 
 tapestry which is to occupy the panels. This suite of saloons 
 is terminated by a toilet-room, the walls of which are covered 
 by a continuity of mirrors, on which M. Chaplin has executed 
 various figures of goddesses disguised as shepherdesses, £S aerial 
 as the ground on which they are painted, and the light scroll , 
 work which encircles them. The decorative paintings are 
 by M. Godon, and M. Savreux’s ornamental sculptrre pro- ■ 
 fusely decorates both the exterior and interior of the edifice. 
 The Salon des Quatre Saisons was arranged by Mme. 
 Murat, for the reception of her husband after one of lis cam- . 
 paigns. This was the bed-room of the Empress Maria 
 
 (G This was the Depot des Cartes Gcographiques of Napileon 1, 
 The otlier rooms were the Petits Appartemenls, once occupied by 
 llic Due de tierri. The Emperor Alexander 1. slept here during 
 the occupation of the Allies, and Ibrahim Pasha inhabitid these 
 apartments in 1846. 
 
in>„ iciBJ 
 
 IE!PliS3CC®:iPiML cClfimiMSSlLo 
 
 i 
 
PALAIS DE L’ELYSEE NAPOLEON. 9 
 
 Louisa, and here also was born the sister of the Duke of Bor- 
 deaux. Adjoining is a suite of rooms for the accommodation 
 of a dame d’honneur, &c. These were the apartments inha- 
 bited in 1846 by the Prince de Salerno. The southern front 
 of the palace is composed of a central pavilion with four Ionic 
 columns on the basement story, and as many Corinthian ones 
 on the upper. The garden opens into the Avenue de Ma- 
 rigny. This palace is not visible for the present. At No. 5 
 in the rue d’Aguesseau, is 
 
 The Episcopal Church, for the use of the British cmljassy 
 and residents. — Its style is Gothic ; it consists of a nave, 5o 
 feet high, and is lighted by stained windows at each end, and 
 by skylights. The altar is ornamented with a fine painting by 
 Annibal Carracci. This church was built in 1833, at theexpense 
 of Bishop Luscombe, then chaplain of the embassy, after a plan 
 of his own. It will hold a congregation of upwards of 800 
 persons (see p. 115). 
 
 At No. 4 i ,in the rue du Faubourg St. Honore, is the splendid 
 hotel of the Baroness Pontalba. Next to this is 
 
 The British Emrassy, No. 39, formerly the Hotel Borghese, 
 the residence of the Princess Pauline, sister of Bonaparte. It 
 was purchased by the British government soon after the peace 
 in 1814, and with its fine garden forms one of the most noble 
 residences of Paris. The British consular office is here. 
 
 No. 1 1 rue d’Anjou is the mairie of the 8th arrondissement. 
 
 At No. 37, we see the hotel lately built by the well known 
 capitalists, Messrs. Pereire. It is one of the most sumptuous 
 among the private edifices of the capital. 
 
 At No. 1, rue des Champs-Elysees, is the Hotel de la 
 ReyniEre, once the residence of the famous M. Grimod, author 
 of the Almanach des Gourmands. It was long occupied by the 
 Rupian and Ottoman embassies; the Duke of Wellington also 
 resided here. The Cercle Imperial is now in it (seep. 14.) 
 
 At the western end of the Boulevards stands the church of 
 
 La Madeleine. — This is, since the beginning of the 13th 
 century, the fourth church erected on this site, called in former 
 times, from its vicinity to a suburban villa of the Bishops of 
 Paris/' la \ illel’Eveque.” The present magnificent structure 
 was commenced in 17 64, by Constant d’lvry, and continued 
 by Couture. The revolution of 17 89 suspended the works 
 until Napoleon I, directed Vignon to complete it for a Ten pie 
 of Glory. In 1815, Louis XVHI. restored it to its original 
 destination, and decreed that it should contain monuments 
 to Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, Louis XVIL, and Mademoiselle 
 Elipbeth. It was finished under Louis Philippe, by M. Have. 
 This edifice, the total cost of which amounted to 13,079,ooofr. 
 
200 THIRD WALK. 
 
 stands on an elevated basement 328 feet by 138, and is ap- 
 proached at each end by a flight of 28 steps, extending 
 the whole length of the facade. Its form and propor- 
 tions are Grecian. A colonnade of 52 Corinthian columns, 
 each 49 feet high by 1 6/2 in circumference, surrounds it, 15 
 on each side, 14 in the southern portico and 8 in the northern. 
 In the walls, there are niches containing statues of saints. (1) 
 The whole entablature and the ceiling of the colonnade are 
 profusely enriched with elaborate sculpture. The pediment 
 of the southern front contains an immense alto-rilievo by 
 Lemaire, 126 feet in length by 24 in height to the angle (2). 
 The northern portico is plain. The bronze doors, designed 
 by Triquetti, and cast by Messrs. Richard, Eck, and Du- 
 rand, are larger than those of the Baptistery of Florence, or 
 the Pantheon at Rome ; they measure 33 feet by lC'/ 2 , and 
 display bas-relief illustrations of the ten commandments (3). 
 
 Interior . — On entering the vestibule. Faith, Hope, and Cha- 
 rity are visible on the soffit of the arch. On the right is the 
 chapel for marriages, with the marriage of the Virgin, by 
 Pradier. On the left is the baptismal font, with a group by 
 Rude, of Christ and St. John at the waters of the Jordan. The 
 
 (1) St. Philippe on the right, and St. Louis on the left of the en- 
 trance, both by Nanteuil. In the colonnade on the right; I. the 
 Angel Gabi’iel, by Duret; 2 . St. Bernard, by Husson ; 3 . Ste. Tht5- 
 rfese, by Feuch&re ; 4. St. Hilaire, by Huguenin ; .5. Ste. C6cile, by 
 Dumont; 6 . St. Ir^n^e, by Gourdel ; 7. Ste. Adelaide, by Bosio, 
 nephew; 8. St. Francois de Sales, by Molchenet; 9. Ste. Heifene, 
 by Mercier ; 10. St. Martin de Tours, by Grerenich ; 11. Ste 
 Agathe, by Dantan, jun. ; 12 . St. Gr^goire, by Th4rasse ; 13 . Ste. 
 Agnes, by Dusseigneur ; 14. St. Raphael, by Dantan, sen. Facing 
 the rue Tronchet. 15. St. Luc, by Ramey; 16. St. Jean, by the 
 same; 17, St. Mathieu, by Desprez ; 18. St. Marc, by Lemaire. 
 In the colonnade on the left: 19. Guardian Angel, by Bra; 20 . 
 Ste. Marguerite, by Caunois ; 21 . St. Jean Chrysostdme, by Jec- 
 ther ; 22. Ste. Genevieve, by Debay, sen.; 23. St. Gregoire le 
 Grand, by Maindron ; 24. Ste. Jeanne de Valois, by Caillot; 25. 
 St. Jdrome, by Lanno ; 26. Ste. Christine, by Talcher; 27, St. 
 Ferdinand, by Jalay ; 28. Ste. Elisabeth, by Calhouette; 29. St. 
 Charles Borromee, by Jouffroy ; 30. Ste Anne, by Desbeeufs ; 31. 
 St. Denis, by Debay, jun.; 32. St. Michel, by Raggi. 
 
 ( 2 ) In the centre is the figure of Christ, with Magdalen at his 
 feet ; to his right are the Angel of Mercy, Innocence, Faith, 
 Hope, and Charity. In the corner an angel greets the resurrec- 
 tion of a blessed spirit. On the left of the Sovereign Judge the 
 Angel of Vengeance repels Hatred, Unchastity, Hypocrisy, and 
 Avarice ; a demon, precipitating into the abyss a damned spirit, 
 terminates the group on this side. 
 
 (3) Above, in the centre, is Moses commanding obedience to 
 the Tables ; 011 egch side are the Lapidation of the Blasphemer, 
 
THE MADELEINE. 201 
 
 pulpit and the 1 2 confessionals along the chapels, richly carved 
 in oak and gilt, are decorated in the same taste as tne organ. 
 The church itself consists of a vast nave, laterally interrupted by 
 four piers on each side, fronted with lofty fluted Corinthian 
 columns supporting colossal arches, on which rest three cupolas 
 with skylights, and compartments gorgeously gilt ; the corners 
 supported by figures of the Apostles in alto-rilievo. The walls 
 of the church are incrusled with rich marbles. An Ionic 
 I colonnade, supporting a gallery with a balustrade, runs between 
 ' the piers, and is continued around the choir ; it is interrupted 
 under each arch by the pediment of a chapel with Corinthian 
 columns. Each chapel contains the marble statue of its patron, ( l) 
 A marble balustrade encompassing the interior of the church 
 separates it from these altars. The tympans of the lateral arches 
 contain paintings illustrative of the life of Magdalen (2). The 
 pavement is marble of different colours. On the ceiling of the 
 choir, which is semicircular, there is a splendid composition by 
 Ziegler, representing the establishment and propagation of Chris^- 
 tianity since the death of our Saviour (3). The walls of the choir 
 are ornamented with paintings and arabesques by Raverat, on 
 a ground of gold. In the midst, approached by marble steps, 
 stands the high altar, richly sculptured, by Marocchetti. The 
 principal group represents Magdalen in an attitude of divine 
 rapture, borne to paradise on the wings of angels. On a pe- 
 destal at each of the corners in front there kneels an archangel 
 in prayer. For these figures, 150,000 fr. were paid. Two 
 beautiful children support semicircular lateral stands on each 
 side, and below the table of the altar is a bas-relief representing 
 the feast of Cana, by Moine. Behind the northern portico, and 
 concealed from view, is a peal of fixed bells. Tbe roof is con- 
 structed of iron and copper. In the undercroft is a chapel to 
 St. Francis Xavier, belonging to the fraternity of that name. 
 High mass is celebrated at 1 1 on Sundays and holidays. 
 
 I and the Prohibition ofldolatry. Next follow, 3d. the Repose of 
 God on the Sabbath ; 4th. Joshua punishing the theft of Achan ; 
 5th. the Curse of Noah ; cth. Susanna ; 7th. the Death of Abel; 
 8th. God reproaching Abimelech ; 9th. Nathan announcing to 
 David his Chastisement; loth. Elijah reproaching Jezebel. 
 
 (1) Ste. Am4lie, by Bra; Jesus Christ, by Daret; Ste. Clotilde, 
 by Barye, on the right: on the left, St. Vincent de Paule, by 
 Raggi ; the Virgin, by Seurre ; St. Augustin, by Etex. 
 
 ( 2 ) The first to the right on entering represents the Preaching 
 of Christ and Conversion of Magdalen, by Schnetz ; 2 d. the Cru- 
 cifixion, by Bouchot ; 3d. Magdalen in the Desert, by Abel de 
 Pujol. On the left, tst. the Supper of Bethany, with Magdalen 
 at the feet of Christ, by Couder ; 2 d. the Angel announcing the 
 Resurrection, by Coignet ; 3d. the Death of Magdalen, by Signol. 
 
 (3) Magdalen is wafted before the throne of Chriatj surrounded 
 
 i 
 
202 THIRD WALK. 
 
 Behind the church there is a well-supplied irarket, and 
 east of the edifice a flower-market is held on Tuesdays and 
 Fridays. On the opposite side we see the short but elegant 
 Galerie de lo. Madeleine, and the starting-point of the 
 splendid new thoroughfare, called the 
 
 Boulevard Malesherbes, — inaugurated hy the Emperor on 
 the 13th of August, 1861. It extends from the Place de la 
 Madeleine to the exterior Boulevard de Monceaux, thus opening 
 a direct communication with the 17 th arrondissement. It 
 reaches in a direct line to the Place Lahorde, where two 
 branches meet. Before reaching this point, the visitor will 
 see, in the rue Roquepine, at No. 4, the new Wesleyan Chapel 
 (see p. 115), a Gothic structure in the style of the 15th cen- 
 tury, and at No. 5, the Eglise de la TriniU (French Cal- 
 vinists). The rue Lavoisier, on the opposite side of the 
 boulevard, leads to. the apsis of the 
 ChapelleExpiatoire. — This spot was formerly the burial- 
 ground of the Madeleine, where Louis XVI. and his Queen were 
 obscurely interred in 1793. The ground was bought by M. 
 Descloseaux, and converted into an orchard, in order to pro- 
 tect those precious remains from desecration ; and he is said to 
 
 hy the Evangelists and Apostles, the Emperor Constantine, and 
 several saints. Next come the Crusades, with Urban 11., 
 Eugenius 111., St. Bernard, Peter the Hermit pressing on the ex- 
 pedition ; then the dukes, counts, and barons of Christendom, 
 and an old man beneath, who devotes his three sons lo the 
 “holy cause.” St. Louis kneels near Magdalen ; then Godefroy 
 de Bouillon; Richard Ceeur de Lion, Robert of Normandy, u 
 Constable de Montmorency, Dandolo, the “ blind old Doge 
 and next is Villehardouin, the historian of the Crusades. The 
 struggles of the Greeks to throw off the Mussulman yoke are 
 depicted by a Grecian warrior prostrate, and a group of his coun- 
 trymen pressing around the standard of the cross. On the Sa- 
 viour’s left are some of the early martyrs. Indistinctly seen 
 is the shadowy form of Ahasuerus, the wandering Jew. Below 
 are the warriors of Clovis, from whose aspect a Druidess flies in 
 dismay. St. Remi baptises Clovis, near whom is Ste. Clotilde, 
 Queen of France. Opposite St. Louis is Charlemagne, on wlioma 
 cardinal confers the insignia of the empire; an envoy of the caliph 
 Haroun-al-Raschid, attended by a guardian of the holy sepul- 
 chre, presents him with “ the keys,” and the robe of the Virgin. 
 Lower down is Pope Alexander 111., who laid the foundation of 
 Notre Dame, giving his benediction to Frederick Barbarossa 
 at Venice. Otho, Joan of Arc, Raphael, Michael Angelo, and 
 Dante, complete this side. In the centre is the convert Henry 
 IV. ; Louis Xlll. presenting his crown to the Virgin ; and near 
 him Richelieu. Lastly, Napoleon I. receives the imperial crown 
 from the hands of Pius VII. ; the Bishop of Genoa and Cardinals 
 Caprara and Braschi unroll the concordat. 
 
CHAPELLE EXPIATOIRE. 203 
 
 have annually sent the Duchess of Angouleme a bouquet 
 gathered from the graves of her parents. At the Restoration 
 the. Royal ashes were transpoited wilh great pomp to St! 
 Denis ; the earth that had covered the coffins was preserved • 
 the remains of the other victims, including the Swiss Guards’ 
 were placed in two large graves, and the present chapel was 
 f erected by Louis XVIII. It bears the following inscription : 
 
 Le Roi Louis XVIII. a ele\A ce monument pour conserve!’ les 
 lieux oil les depouilles mortelles du Roi Louis XVI et de la 
 Reine Marie-Antoinette, IransKrees le 21 Janvier MDCCCXV. dans 
 la s(5pulture royale de St. Denis, ont repose pendant XXL ans. 
 II a dte acheve ia deuxidme amide du regne du Roi Charles X ' 
 I’an de grace MDCCCXXVI. ' ’’ 
 
 This monument now forms the prominent feature of an 
 elegant square laid out as a garden. In tlie outer vestibule 
 of the edifice a flight of steps leads to a raised platform, 
 surrounded by a covered gallery on each side, and by a chapel 
 at each end, containing the remains of the old cemetery. Op- 
 posite stands the larger chapel, of the Doric order, in the form 
 of a cross, surmounted by a dome. Within are two statues, of 
 Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, each supported by an angel; 
 on the pedestal of the former his will is inscribed in letters of 
 gold on a black marble slab ; on that of the latter are extracts 
 of the queen’s last letter to Mme Elisabeth. Around the chapel 
 are niches with magnificent candelabra, and over its vestibule 
 is a bas-relief representing the funeral procession to St. Denis. 
 The corners are adorned with allegorical bas-reliefs. Beneath 
 is a subterranean chapel, where an altar of grey marble is 
 erected over the exact spot where Louis XVI. was buried; and 
 in a coinei, about 5 feet from it, is pointed out the original 
 resting-place of the queen. The vestry attached is for the use 
 , of two clergymen, who perform mass here every day at 9 a.m., 
 and oil Sundays at 9 and lo. Architects: Percier and 
 Fontaine. A small fee is given by visitors to the door-keeper. 
 
 At No. 122, rue St. Lazare, is the Versailles, St. Germain, 
 Rouen, Havre, and Western railroad terminus. This is a large 
 handsome building, extending to the rue de Stockholm. A 
 spacious Doric vestibule, 144 feet long by 21 in breadth 
 occupies the xvhole breadth of the building. Behind it one 
 of the largest excavations in or about Paris has been effected 
 to obtain additional room for the railway lines. The whole 
 . Iflace de I'Europe has been cut through, an& replaced by an 
 iron bridge of uncommon stiength, widened out at its extre- 
 , mities so as to take in at one end the three Rues de Londres, 
 de Berlin, and de St. Petersbourg ; and at the other the Rues 
 de Constantinople, de Madrid, and de Vienne. This spot. 
 
204 THIRD walk. 
 
 with the view it atfoids of the terminus, is well worth a 
 visit. New houses are springing up here in every direction. 
 The Rue de la Eienfaisance leads to the church of 
 
 St. Augustin, — Boulevard Malesherhes. The front, which 
 is a mixed Byzantine, has three entrances surmounted hy a I 
 large circular window crowned with raking cornices forming ] 
 a gahle ; four octagonal towers rise above the transept. The 
 interior consists of a nave and two aisles, decorated with 
 mural paintings still in course of execution hy MM. Signol, 
 Bezard, Baize, and other artists of merit ; and with statues 
 and bas-reliefs hy MM. Jouffroy, Cordier, Perrey, &c. These ! 
 works of art will entail an outlay amounting to 290,000 fr. ; i; 
 a large underground chapel with a low arched ceiling has I 
 already been opened to worship here, and is accessible by a 
 provisional passage. 
 
 Continuing up the Boulevard Malesherhes, we find to our 
 left the rue de Valois, where a splendid mansion has been 
 erected for the Italian Embassy. It covers a space of 2,000 
 square metres, and will cost 2,040,000fr. At the extremity 
 of the boulevard, we find the eastern entrance of the 
 
 Park de Monceaux. — In this park a palace was erected by 
 Carmontel in 1778, for the Duke of Orleans. The Convention 
 intended it for various establishments of public utility ; Na- 
 poleon I. presented it to Cambaceres, who gave it up again to 
 the Crown a few years later. In 1814 Louis XVlIl restored 
 it to the Duke of Orleans, but in 1852 it returned to the State, 
 and is now the property of the city, which opened it to the 
 public Aug. 15th, 18C1. Upwards of 100,000 rare shrubs 
 and flowers gracefully adorn the spacious grass-plats and 
 border the gravel-walks by which this beautiful spot is in- 
 tersected. It is divided by two carriage-roads ; on the out- 
 skirts of the exterior boulevard we see an elegant rotunda 
 flanked hy two entrances. Not far from this, there stands a 
 ihock ruin, consisting of a Corinthian colonnade skirting the . 
 banks of a miniature lake, called the Naumachie. From this 
 the water meanders across the park, forming two pretty islets, ; 
 and further on losing itself in a wild grotto. At one point it 
 is spanned by a stone bridge, and here and there we see small 
 ruins, broken columns, pyramids, &c. 
 
 Leaving this charming spot by the western entrance, front- 
 ing the Avenue de la Reine llortense, where there is a large 
 boarding school kept by the Dames du Sucre Coeur, we inay 
 turn to the right into the rue de Charties, and thence into 
 the rue de la Croix, where we shall find the new 
 
 Greek Church, inaugurated on the llth of September, 
 1861. — This brilliant edifice, constructed at a cost of 
 

GREEK CMURCM. 
 
 205 
 
 1 >200,000 fr., the amount of voluntary contributions, col> 
 lected by M. VassilielT, almoner to the Russian Embassy at 
 Paris, among the richest families of St. Petersburg, is now 
 one of the ornaments of the capital of France. The first stone 
 was laid March 3, 1860, by the Russian Ambassador, Count 
 Kisselcff. The plan of the edifice is square ; it is flanked 
 with octagonal turrets at the angles, each topped with a 
 f conical roof, similar to the larger one, which covers the main 
 body. Each of these cones ends in a piroid spire surinoimted 
 by the Greek double cross with pendant chains. The whole 
 is elegantly sculptured and gilt. The porch is approached by 
 seven steps, and consists of a small cupola resting on pillars. 
 The interior is circular, with semi-circular recesses ; the 
 decorations are gorgeous. The paintings on the walls repre- 
 sent the Adoration of the Shepherds ; the Sermon on the 
 Mount; the Last Supper ; and the entry into Jerusalem. In 
 the central cupola, (ihrist imparting his blessing ; in the pen- 
 dentives, the Four Evangelists. The circular nave is sepa- 
 rated from the choir by the iconostas, a screen on which the 
 painter and decorator appear to have exhausted their talent ; 
 it presents, in compartments, the figures of Christ, the Virgin, 
 and other holy personages. Rehind this is the picture of the 
 Saviour radiant with glory. This church is dedicated to the 
 Trinity and St. Alexander Newsky. Visible to the public on 
 Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays from 3 to 7. 
 
 POTTKTH ITAL'Z. 
 
 This comprises parts of the 1st, 2d, and 9th arrondisse- 
 ments. The stranger may commence it by the 
 
 Palais Royal. — On the site of this palace formerly stood, in 
 the time of Charles VI., a hotel situated without the city walls; 
 this was purchased and demolished by Cardinal de Richelieu, 
 who, in 1620-3C, built the Palais Cardinal in its place, after 
 the designs of Lemercier. it had several courts, and contained 
 |a theatre for 3000 spectators, magnificent galleries painted by 
 Philippe de Champagne, Vouet, See., a second theatre for 500 per- 
 sons, and a splendid chapel. Large gardens in the rear co- 
 vered the rues do Valois, do Montpensier, and de Beaujolais. 
 The cardinal contemplated other buildings round the garden, 
 but the splendour of his design excited the jealousy of the king. 
 Shortly before his decease in 1G42, the cardinal presented it to 
 Louis XIII. On the death of Richelieu, the king removed to it, 
 and from that period it assumed the name of Palais Royal. 
 
206 POURTfl walk. 
 
 After the death of Louis XIII. in 1643, Anne of Aiustria, 
 with the young king, Louis XIV., made it her abode (during 
 the turbulent times of the Fronde. In 1692, it was ceded by 
 Louis XIV. to Philippe of Orleans, his nephew, as part of his 
 apanage on his marriage with Mile, de Blois. The Regent Duke 
 of Orleans, on coming into possession of it, placed in the grand 
 gallery the valuable collection of pictures he had purchased in 
 various parts, and which, celebrated as the Orleans Gallery, 
 was sold during the troubles of the first Revolution, when the 
 greater part passed into England. Here, too, had been placed, by 
 Louis XIV., the well known collection of medals, and en- 
 graved gems, subsequently purchased by the Empress of Russia. 
 The orgies of which this palace was the scene have been suffi- 
 ciently commemorated in the memoirs of the regency ; during 
 the lifetime of the succeeding duke they were discontinued, but 
 were again to a certain extent resumed under his successor, 
 better known as “ Egalite.” In 17 63, the theatre, built by the 
 cardinal, was destroyed by fire ; and, on this occasion, the 
 entire front of the palace with its two wings was rebuilt, as it 
 now stands, after the designs of Moreau. The debts of the duke 
 having become so enormous that he once meditated a declara- 
 tion of insolvency, it was determined, by the advice of the 
 brother of Mme. iie Genlis, to erect buildings with shops and 
 places of amusement, in the garden of the palace, as a means 
 of augrnenting his revenue. These were begun in 17 81, after 
 the designs of the architect Louis ; the houses and arcades, 
 as they now stand, were finished in 1786. The plan succeeded. 
 During the early part of the first Revolution the garden, then 
 replanted, became the place of resort of the most violent politi- 
 cians of the day ; here the tri-coloured cockade was first adopted, 
 and many of the bolder measures of the popular party were 
 decided on. After the execution of the duke in 1793, his palace, 
 then called Palais Egalite, was confiscated, and soon con- 
 verted into sale-rooms, ball-rooms, cafes, etc. In 1795 , a mi- 
 litary commission was established in it, and one of its halls 
 was afterwards fitted up for the Tribunate, with apartments 
 for the president and the two questors. It was then called 
 Palais du Tribunal, but re-assumed its original title under 
 Napoleon, who never lived there, but assigned a ])ortioR of it 
 to his brother Lucian, Prince of Canino, who occupied it some 
 time. ^ In 1814, Louis Philippe, then Duke of Orleans, return- 
 ed to it, and, with the exception of the interval of the Hundred 
 Days, resided in it till 1831, making additions and improve- 
 ments, and fitting up the whole anew. Most of the houses sur- 
 rounding the garden had passed through several hands during 
 the revolution, so that but a small part reverted to him. The 
 
PALAIS ROYAL. 
 
 207 
 
 Palace was taken and devastated by the mob on 24tli February, 
 1848, and in that and the following year, it became, under 
 the name of Palais National, the place of meeting of some of 
 the republican members of the Constituent Assembly (1). In 
 1850, 1831, and 1852, it was used for exhibitions. 
 
 Exterior. — The late Prince Jerome, on having this palace 
 assigned to him as a residence, fitted it up in the most 
 splendid style. It js now inhabited by Prince Napoleon, 
 and not visible to strangers. It consists of a court, entered 
 from the rue St. Honore, by a Doric arcade and gateway. 
 The principal staircase, designed by Desorgues, rises under a 
 lofty dome, and, branching off into two flights, is adorned witJx 
 a beautiful balustrade and railing of chiselled iron, by Corbin. 
 It leads to the principal vestibule, from which the visitor 
 emerges under the archway of the central building. On 
 the northern side is the principal building, and, on the eastern 
 and western, two wings projecting towards the street with 
 pediments sculptured by Pajou, and representing Prudence, 
 Liberality, Justice and Power. The central compartment of 
 th£ northern side consists of a ground floor, first floor, and 
 attic, surmounted by a segmental pediment ; the other sides of 
 the court have only two stories. A regular gradation of the 
 Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders is observed througliout. To 
 the left of the outer front is a secondary entrance, leading into 
 a by-court enclosed by the Galerie cle Nemours. From the 
 first court a triple archway leads tlirough the central building 
 to the second court. Here the facade, forming the southern 
 side, presents two projecting masses, with fluted Ionic columns, 
 supporting an entablature with allegorical sculptures, and 
 surmounted by an attic. On the first floor are the state apart- 
 ments, and the eastern and western sides of the court have 
 galleries underneath. The eastern gallery, called the Galerie 
 des Proues, still retains the naval ornaments denoting Richelieu 
 as Grand Admiral. This gallery, the northern Galerie de la 
 Cow, and the Galerie de Chartres to the west, are formed 
 by a Doric colonnade enclosing the court. Parallel and 
 
 (i) It was a sad spectacle to behold the Avreck of this palace 
 after the 24 lhof Feb., 1848 . Whilst the work of devastation was 
 in progress some well-meaning persons had written the words 
 “ Respectez les Tableaux ” wilh charcoal on the walls ; but un- 
 fortunately the salutary advice was completely disregarded. Of 
 the numerous fine pictures which adorned the walls of the 
 palace scarcely a dozen were saved. The spirit of destruction 
 was carried so far on that memorable day, that on Feb. 14 , 
 iS.'iO, there were tivcnty-fite thousand kilogrammes of broken glass 
 and china, collected from the remnants of the furniture of the 
 Palas Royal, sold hyordcr of the liquidators of the late Civil List. 
 
208 fOURTH WALK. 
 
 contiguous to the Galerie de la Cour is the Galerie d’OrUanS, 
 300 feet long by 40 broad, on the site of the Galerie de Bois, 
 demolished in 1830. It is a lofty hall, paved with marble and 
 and roofed with glass, extending between a double range of 
 shops, over which a double terrace, bordered with shrubs 
 vases, serves as a promenade to the inmates of the palace. The 
 Galerie de Chartres communicates with the Peristyle de Char- 
 tres, leading to the Theatre Francais, formerly the private 
 property of the Dukes of Orleans. ( See Theatres.) 
 
 In the western wing of the principal court was the private 
 library of Louis Philippe. It contained a valuable collection of 
 upwards of 600,000 engravings, classed by Louis Philippe’s 
 own hand, and filled 122 colossal folios, which perished in the 
 flames with the greater part of the library on February 24. 
 
 At 3, rue de Valois, was the Queen’s private library, which 
 was also completely destroyed on that eventful day. 
 
 The Garden, forming a rectangle of 7 00 feet by 300, and sur- 
 rounded by the Galeries Beaujolais, Montpensier, Valois, and 
 du Jardin, is planted with rows of lime trees from end to end, 
 and two flower-gardens, separated by a circular basin of watw, 
 with a fine jet d’eau. The garden was thus arranged in 1799 ; 
 it contains bronze copies of the Diane a la Biche of the Louvre, 
 and the Apollo Belvedere ; two modern statues in white marble, 
 one of a young man about to batlie, by d’Espercieux ; the other 
 of a boy struggling with a goat, by Lemoine ; Ulysses on the 
 seashore, by Bra ; and Eurydice stung by the snake, by Nan- 
 teuil, a fine copy in bronze, but more fitted for a gallery 
 than the place it now occupies. Near this statue is a solar 
 cannon, which is fired by the sun when it reaches the meridian, 
 and regulates the clocks of the Palais Royal. Within the garden 
 are 4 kiosks generally occupied by persons who let out jour- 
 nals to read at a sou each ; and round them are to be found 
 at all hours of the day politicians of every caste and rank. 
 Under the lime trees are rows of chairs, occupied, during the 
 summer montlis, by crowds of loungers , and so great is the 
 profit arising from them, and from the privilege of supplying 
 frequenters of the garden with refreshments, that Government 
 derives an annual rent of 38,000 fr., or £1520 from these two 
 items alone. The buildings that surround the garden are all of 
 uniform architecture, and consist of two stories and an attic, 
 resting upon arcades, divided by fluted Composite pilasters, 
 which rise to the cornice above the second story. The shops 
 under the arcades are among the most elegant in Paris, ar- 
 ranged with the greatest taste, and, being chiefly devoted to 
 articles of luxury, produce a most brilliant effect. On the first 
 floors are a great number of restaurants, and here were for- 
 
PALAIS ROYAL. 209 
 
 merly the gambling-houses which rendered this place so cele- 
 bfated. the stories above are occupied by individuals of va- 
 rious professions. Under the arcades, at the corner of the Thea- 
 tre Francais, is Chevet’s magasin de comestibles, Avell known 
 to epicures. In the Galerie Montpensier is the Cafe Corazza, 
 and in the Galerie Beaujolais are the two restaurants of les 
 Trois Freres Provencaux, Vefour, and the Cafe de la Rotonde 
 all unique in their kind. Under the Peristyle Beaujolais, to 
 the north-east, is the Cafe des Aveugles, a place of amusement 
 worthy of a visit by the curious traveller, as being a favouiite 
 resort of the lower classes. It takes its name from a band of 
 blind musicians, who accompany singers in little vaudevilles. 
 A “sauvage,” too, a celebrated drummer', performs here. In 
 the Peristyle Joinville, at the north-west corner, is the en- 
 trance to the Theatre da Palais Royal, formerly Montansier 
 (see Theatres), not to be confounded with the Theatre Fran- 
 pais, which also communicates, as has been observed, with 
 the Palais Royal. The best time for seeing this splendid 
 bazaar is in the evening, when the garden and arcades are bril- 
 Irantly illuminated and full of people; the shops of the watch- 
 makers and jewellers will then particularly strike the Aositor’s 
 eye. The Palais Royal has been called, not Avithout reason, 
 the Capital of Paris, and it certaiirly is more frequently entered 
 than any other space of equal dimensions in the city. To the 
 stranger it is particularly interesting from its historical associa- 
 tions. As early as Anne of Austria, the troubles of the Fronde 
 may be said to have commenced in it ; there Camille Desmou- 
 lins from one of the straw chairs harangued the populace on 
 the night of tlie famous charge of the Prince de Lambesc ; the 
 club of the Jacobins was formed in it, as also that of the Ther- 
 midorians ; the Dantonists met at the Cafe de Foy, the Giron- 
 dists at the Cafe de Chartres. And still it is the same favourite 
 resort of politicians, idlers, and the little rentiers of the capital. 
 
 The immense building bordering the eastern side of the 
 Place da Palais Royal (l) is the 
 
 HoTgL DU Louvm, built by a company on the plan of the 
 colossal hotels for Much the United States are so celebrated 
 It occupies a space of nearly two English acres, between the 
 rues St, Honore, de Rivoli, de Marengo, and the Place du Palais 
 Royal. It has three courts, one of which, the Cour d’Hon- 
 
 (I) Before 1848 thissquareAvas not one half of its presentsize, 
 and was bordered in front of the Palais Royal by a very hand- 
 some fountain called the Chdteaxh d'Eau^ erected in 1719 by de 
 Cotte. It was here the Garde Municipale made the last des- 
 perale resistance to the people on the 24 th February i 848 ; it was 
 demolished by order of the Provisional Government. 
 
 14 
 
210 FOURTH WALK. 
 
 neur, is roofed with glass. From the court an elegant 
 doubie-branched staircase gives access to an arcaded Corin- 
 thian gallery, 98 feet by 26, the ceiling of which is painted 
 with figures representing the twelve months, by Gosse and 
 Barryas, and the Genii of Arts and Sciences, by Nolau and 
 Rube. This gallery communicates with the dining-room, a 
 vast hall 131 feet by 42, with an altitude of 34 feet. The 
 ceilin'^ is adorned with frescos representing the Four Seasons, 
 and the other decorations, as well as the hangings, curtains, 
 and furniture, are of the most gorgeous description. The ex- 
 hibitors of the Great Universal Exhibition gave a splendid 
 banquet here to Prince Napoleon on the I5th of October 1855. 
 The comforts contrived for the inmates of this establishment 
 are of a novel description. A large clock in the Cow 
 d’Honneur communicates the true time to all the bracket- 
 clocks throughout the house by means of electricity ; travellers’ 
 baggage is conveyed from story to story by machinery ; dishes 
 are slid down hot from the kitchen into trucks whicli, running 
 along a subterranean railway , transport them to a point where, 
 by another contrivance, they are safely hoisted up to the dining- 
 room ; the waiters are summoned by electric liells ; speaking- 
 tubes communicate with the office?, the laundry, etc., and 
 a constant supply of water, both hot and cold, is conveyed by 
 pipes to all the apartments at the command of the visitor. 
 Linen is washed and dried by steam ; baths and smoking-rooms 
 have also been provided. There is a telegraph office here. 
 
 Proceeding westwards, along the rue St. Honore, the visitor 
 will perceive the new facade of the Theatre Francuis, ad- 
 joining the Palais Royalfl). Here vast demolitions are in 
 progress for the opening of the Rue de ITmperatrice, a new 
 street establishing a direct communication between the just- 
 mentioned theatre and the New Opera (see p. 213). Entering 
 the Rue d’Argenteuil, we find, at No. 18, the house in which 
 Corneille died. It has a bust of the ^t in the court-yard, 
 with a black slab bearing this motto, borrowed from the Cul : 
 Je ne dois qu’5, mot seul toute ma renommee. 
 
 At the corner of the Rues St. Roch and St. Honore stands 
 the church of 
 
 St. Roch, — the first stone of which was laid by Louis 
 XlVr'and Anne of Austria, in 1653; the architects were Le- 
 
 (i) The Theatre Franfais stands on the site of a rampart 
 where the Maid of Orleans was severely wounded from a 
 cross-bow while trying the depth of the ditch with her lance 
 during an assault. Slic however would no't retire, hut com 
 tinued till night to direct the placing of the faggots on which it 
 was to be crossed. 
 
ST. ROCH. 211 
 
 mercier and De Coste. It is approached by a flight of steps 
 extending the whole breadth of the church, and famous 
 as the theatre of many events during the several French re- 
 volutions, The mob crowded them to see Marie Antoinette 
 led to execution ; Bonaparte cleared them of that same mob 
 with cannon during the Directory; in 1830 a stand was made 
 there against the gendarmerie of Charles X.; and in 1848 the 
 descendants of the votaries of the Goddess of Reason devoutly 
 ascended those steps to deposit in the church a crucifix found 
 in the palace of theTuileries. The front is Doric and Corinthian 
 84 feet in breadth, and 91 in height. The church is cruciform • 
 its total length is 405 feet, that of the choir 69, and its breadth 
 42; aisles with chapels run along each side. The interim- 
 is Doric; the piers of the arches are incrusted with marble at 
 the base. Beside the entrance there is an inscription on marble 
 placed there by Louis Philippe, in 1 82 1 , to the memory of Pierre 
 Corneille, who is buried here ; another tablet records the 
 names of benefactors to the church, and of distinguished per- 
 sons buried there, whose tombs were destroyed in 17 93 (i). 
 In the 5th chapel is a marble monument to the Abbe de I’Epee* 
 by Preault, erected at the expense of deaf and dumb persons 
 educated at his institution. A plain sarcophagus supports 
 his bust ; the figures of two children are represented in the 
 act of raising their eyes towards him with an expression of 
 gratitude. The inscription is . — F^Vo admodum mirabili 
 sacerdoh de I’Epee, qiii fecit exemplo Saloatoris mutos loqui 
 Gives Gallia) hoc monumentum dedicarunt an. 1840 . Natus 
 
 (i) The best works of art in the chapels of this church he- 
 ginnmg from the left on entering, are— 2d. chapel: A marble 
 group of the Baptism of Christ, by Lemoine ; on the walls, 
 pirist calling on John to baptize him, and the Saviour appearin"- 
 to his Disciples. 3d. St. Nicholas saving a ship at sea. 4 th A 
 Descent from tlm Cross in plaster, by Bogino.— Transept : 
 SL Denis preaching, by Vien. — Chapel of St. Vincent tie Paul : 
 paintings representing him assisting the poor, and his apo- 
 theosis; in tlie window, a small specimen of old stained 
 glass, representing tlie Saviour reading to the Virgin and 
 Joseph. Here begins the series of the stations of the ViaCrucis 
 consisting of bas-reliefs in plaster, continued along the church’ 
 -foseph: the birth of Christ, hy Tissier, and the 
 death ot St. Joseph, in fresco, by Brune ; in the next, St. Fran- 
 cis de Sales, preacliing, by Loyer; and tlie same helpin'^ a 
 wayfarer tliroiigli the snow, by Sclieffer ; in the following is St. 
 Charles Borromeo. — Lady Chapel, of an elliptical form, orna- 
 mented with Corintliian pilasters, and surmounted by a dome 
 painted in fresco by Pierre. On tlie altar is a «roup in while 
 marble, liy Anguier, which formerly decorated the altar of the 
 Val de Grace : tlie infant Jesus in the manger, with the Virgin 
 
212 
 
 FOURTH Walk. 
 
 cin. 1712, movtuus cin. 17 89. — Near is a black marble tablet, 
 M^itli the inscription t — -A. I Ahh^ Ab I Ibs soui clS“TyiuBts 
 
 susdois TBConudissants . 1845. — Opposite is the pulpit, Vvith 
 statues of tlie Evangelists carved in oak; an angel supports the 
 canopy. Following the aisle we enter the chapel of tlie Holy 
 Sacrament, magnificently decorated in representation of the 
 Holy of Holies of the Mosaic tabernacle ; all the ornaments 
 of the Jewish ritual are placed here. In the windows are 
 Denis the Areopagite, and Denis Affre, Aichbishop of Paiis, 
 killed on the barricades in June, 1848. The cupola of St. Roch 
 is painted by Roger, and the Empress has an elegant tribune 
 in this church, which is the richest in Paris, and is celebrated 
 for its music and singing on all great Catholic festivals. 
 
 Continuing westwards along the rue St. Honore, we find to 
 our right the rue du Marche St. Honore, leading to the 
 
 M.VRCHE Sr. Honore, opened in 1809, on the site of the Con- 
 vent des Jacobim, celebrated in 17 89. The entrance to the 
 Club des Jacobins was the large arched gate still visible m 
 the rue St. Hyacinthe. The market has now been rebuilt on 
 the plan of the Central Halles (see p . 243). 
 
 The rue Neuve des Petits Champs will lead, by the rue Me- 
 hul, to the ThddtrB ItdliBn. (See TliBdtVBS.) 
 
 and Joseph kneeling ; it is a fine piece of sculpture. At the en- 
 trance to this chapel are two paintings Jesus purging the Tern- 
 pie by Tlioinas, and bis recalling the daughter of Jairus to lite, 
 hy Delorme.— Chapel of the Calvary : a Crucifix, hy Anguier, 
 that formerly stood over the altar of the Sorbonne ; close to it, 
 under a vaulted recess, is a Descent from the Cross, and m a 
 similar recess, on the other side, the Virgin and St. John, 
 a group in plaster.— In the ist chapel after that of the Virgin, 
 in the opposite aisle, are Christ preaching, and Mary Magdalen, 
 hy Brisset ; 2 d. the martyrdom of St. Catherine on the wheel, 
 and her Apotheosis, by Brune; 3d. St. Agnes in prayer, and 
 lier inspiration by the Holy Ghost, by Bohn ; 4lh. Ste. Cloulde 
 prayin", andher Apotheosis, by Landelle.— Transept : an altar- 
 piece by Doyen, the Cure of the Mai des Ardents, in i230, 
 through the intercession of Ste. Genevieve. — sth chapel ; St. 
 Peter preaching; Christ delivering the keys to St. Peter, elli. 
 Sorrow for the Departed, and Joy at the announcement of their 
 resurrection in Heaven; 7th. Stephen disputing, andhisLapi- 
 dation, by Roux; also a marble monument to the Duke de 
 Creuui' 8th. the Resurrection of Christ, and the angel an- 
 nouncin'' that event to the three holy women ; and monuments 
 to the infamous Cardinal Dubois, Mignard the painter, Lenotre, 
 the designer of the gardens of Versailles, and the Count de Har- 
 court. The last chapel, which contains monuments to Mauper- 
 luis the Duke de Lesdiguieres, and the Mar6chal d’Asleld, is 
 also’ adorned with two frescos, by Quantin, representing the de- 
 
 parture and return of the Prodigal Son. 
 
FRENCH OPERA HOUSE. 213 
 
 Next to this, the Passage Choiseul, one of the handsomest 
 in Paris, will lead the visitor to the 
 Fontaine Louis le Grand, at the corner of rue de la Micho- 
 dih-eaiul rue du Port Mahon. — This pretty fountain, erected 
 in 1712, and rebuilt in 1828, is adorned with a figure striking 
 a dolphin with a trident. Two monolilh basins, in the shape 
 of ancient tazze, receive the water. The capitals, &c., are 
 ornamented with sculptures of fish, shells, aquatic plants’ etc. 
 The following was the inscription : — 
 
 Regnante Carolo X. 
 
 Prlstinum fontem angusliore area jam ampliflcata, Communi 
 iitilitati urbisque ornamento. In majus reslituerunt praefectus 
 et ajdiles Anno M.DCCC.XX.VIII. 
 hut the first line of it was effaced in 1830. 
 
 By the rue du Port Mahon we reach the Boulevard des 
 Capucines and rue de laChaussee d’Antin (1). In this street 
 lived Grimmin 177 8, when betook youngMozartintohis house. 
 
 Continuing westwards along the boulevard, the visitor will 
 see, on the northern side, the new Grand Hdtel, vying in 
 size and grandeur with the Hdtel du Louvre already men- 
 tioned. The ground it occupies cost 8 millions of francs, and 
 the building and furniture 14 millions more. Adjoining is 
 the new and immense 
 
 French Opera-house, which is still in course of construc- 
 tion. It occupies an area of 140 metres by 122 , in the 
 centie of a large space enclosed by the Boulevard des’ltaliens, 
 
 (i) The nomenclature of this street has undergone many 
 changes. It was at first called Chcuiifi dcs PoTchsTO'iis being at 
 that time only a rugged road crossing the Pr^s des Porcherons, 
 an open space, the favourite resort of duellists and debauchees! 
 
 It was next named Chaussee Gaillon, on account of its proximity 
 to the Porte Gaillon; afterwards rwede I’ Hotel Dieu, from its lead- 
 ingMo a farm belonging to that hospital ; subsequently on the 
 building of the Hotel d’Antin it became the Chaussee d’Antin. In 
 J791 it received the name of rue Mirabeau, in memory of the ce- 
 lebrated revolutionary orator, who resided in it at the time ot 
 his death, at No. 42. In 1793 it was called rue Montblanc, but at 
 the Restoration it resumed its name of C/io«ssee d’Antin. No. 62 
 stands on the site of a small hotel inhabited by Josephine before 
 her marriage withNapoleon ; General Foy died there. The last 
 house on the right was the hotel of Cardinal Fesch. Neclier also 
 lived in this street. To give an idea of the immense value of 
 ground here we may state that the Hotel Pillet-Will was lately 
 bought by the City for 2 , 100,000 fr., or at the rate of 630 fr. per 
 square metre. In i67 5, the price of ground on that 'spot Svas 
 three sous per square toise, or four square metres, and in 1722 
 when tile Chauss<5e-d’Antin was transformed from a dirty lane 
 into a street, the square toise cost three livres. In 1 760 , the 
 price varied from eight to ten livres. 
 
214 FOURTH WALK. 
 
 the Rues Scribe, Auber, Halevy, and Neuve des Mathurins. 
 In its present unfinished state we can only describe its gene- 
 ral plan, which comprises a central body fronting the boule- 
 vards, with a facade of coupled columns surmounted by 
 an attic, and two latei-cil projections with carriage-ways 
 reaching' to the level of the first row of boxes, and protected 
 from the weather by arched porticoes. The back part of the 
 buiidiiw is reserved for the Administration and various offices. 
 The outer vestibule for the public is preceded by an open 
 gallery, which faces the boulevard ; after this comes an inner 
 vestibule, where the tickets are examined and exchanged. To 
 the right’ and left of this there are two long galleries for the 
 public who have not taken tickets beforehand. From the 
 second vestibule the principal staircase gives access to the 
 orchestra, the stalks eVamphithSaire, and the baignoires : 
 (see p. 4 62) it stops at the first floor, that is, at the first row 
 of boxes, and the grand foyer or saloon. To the right and 
 left of the principal staircase there are two others with ban- 
 nisters in the middle, one side being for going up, and the 
 other for coming down. These staircases are continued to the 
 top rows of boxes. The principal foyer, looking on the bou- 
 levard, is 60 metres by 13, and has a small circular boudoir 
 at each end. It communicates with the lobby by six en- 
 trances. The part for the audience is entirely built of stone 
 and iron : it is 32 metres long by 30 in breadth, with five 
 tiers of boxes, and will afford accommodation for 2,500 spec- 
 tators. There is a small salon attached to each box, includ- 
 ing those of the 4th tier. Two avant scenes, or stage-boxes, 
 are reserved for the Emperor and Imperial family. The house 
 will be lighted by a splendid lustre and branch chandeliers. 
 An excellent system of ventilation has been provided in the 
 cupola which crowns the edifice. Below the stage, which is 
 25 metres long by 38 in breadth, there is a depth of 14 
 metres, to obtain which, the architect, M. Gamier, was obliged 
 to sink his foundations far below a subterranean sheet of 
 water, an engineering difficulty wliich he has overcome with 
 surprising ability. The advantage thus obtained at immense 
 cost is, that instead of making the lower part of a scene meet 
 a fly from above, wdiieh always produces a disagreeable 
 effect, he can have it drawn up from below all of a piece. 
 The artists entrusted with the interior decoration are M. 
 Cabancl for the paintings of the staircase, and M. Baiulry for 
 those of the foyer. The external sculpture is being executed 
 by MM. Cavelier and Aime Millet. 
 
 Continuing w'estwards, xvc find, at the corner of the rue 
 des Capucines, the spot where, on the night of the 23d Feb- 
 
RESIDENCE OF NAPOLEON.' 215 
 
 ruary, 1848, the eventful shot was fired, which led to the 
 overthrow of the monarchy. This site was occupied at the 
 time, and until September, 1853, by the Foreign Office, a 
 building erected by the minister Bertin in the 18 th century (1). 
 It was taken on the 13th Vendemiaire by General Bonaparte, 
 who, after inhabiting it for some years, gave the property to 
 Marshal Berthier, who sold it to the government in 1821. 
 
 At No. 65 in the rue Caumartin opposite, is the 
 Lvcee Bonaparte, once a convent of Capuchins, designed 
 by Brongniart in 1781. The front is 162 feet long by 42 in 
 height. It consists of a central Doric door-way, flanked by 
 two pavilions at the extremities ; one of which is now 
 The Church of St. Louis d’Antin, a plain Doric building, 
 with a nave and aisle, and a semicircular choir. The ceiling of 
 the choir is painted by Signol. The walls of the nave display 
 the 12 Apostles, painted in wax by Cornu and Bezart. There 
 are also the Agony of Christ, by Goyet ; and Christ at Emmaus, 
 by Dumas. In an urn in the baptismal chapel, is the heart 
 of Count de Choiseul, the Grecian traveller. 
 
 Further on, is the handsome Pasmrjc du Havre. 
 
 I The rue Joubert to our right leads to the rue de la Victoire. 
 i Here at No. GO is the site of a house once inhabited by Napo- 
 leon and Josephine (2). Beturning to the Chaussee d’Antin and 
 turning to the right, we perceive the new 
 ficLisE DE LA Trinite, One of the most striking features of 
 which is the elliptical balustraded carriage-way encircling a 
 delightful public garden, 3,000 square metres in surface. The 
 church itself is built in the style of the Renaissance, with 
 three front entrances, surmounted by a rose-window and two 
 trilobate ones. The interior consists of a nave and two aisles, 
 adorned with paintings by MM. Jobbe-Duval, Barrias, fimile 
 Levy, and Delaunay. These paintinp, with the accessory 
 decorations have cost 1 57,000 fr., besides 192,000 fr. devoted 
 to the sculptural subjects, executed by MM. Cavelier, Maillet, 
 
 (1) The shop-front of Mr. Giroux’s immense premises oc- 
 cupies the precise position of the gate of the old Foreign Office, 
 around which the soldiers stood on tlie night alluded to. The 
 rue St. Arnaud has been run across part of the ground. 
 
 ( 2 ) We here subjoin a brief notice of the different places at 
 which Napoleon I. resided in Paris from his first arrival up 
 to the i8lh Brumaire, and Ihe establishment of Ihe Consu- 
 lar governmenl. — Ecole Militaire : Bonaparte coming from Ihe 
 military school of Brienne, was admitted here Oct. loth, i 7 S 4 , 
 and occupied a small room on the upper story.— Quai de Conti, 
 No. 5. Here Bonaparte occupied a small garret, 'aTTgiWafds 
 railed the ‘‘ Eagle’s ^esi.”~H6telde Met^.rue du Mail, from May 
 to S'eptember 1792. Bonaparte, then a detain of aVlfflerv, was 
 
FOURTH WALK. 
 
 216 
 
 Crauk, Carpeaux, Guillaume Doublemard, and Dantan. jun. 
 The total cost of this church amounts to 3 888,911 fr. 
 Arcliitect, M Ballu. 
 
 At No. 30 IS the College Municipal Chaptal see p. loo), 
 and higher up, at No. 7 0, the Prison for Debtors see p. 7 8.) 
 
 The rue Vintimille leads to the Place of that nime, in the 
 centre of which is a pretty square, covering a space of 778 
 metres. The rue Percier leads us into the me Fontaine 
 St. Georges, where we find, at No. 30, a profusely sculptured 
 house in the style of the time of Francis I. The qiarter crossed 
 by this street, and the rue Notre Dame deLorette, has received 
 the name of La Nouvelle Athenes. The Place St. Georges, 
 with its fountain, richly sculptured edifices, and gardens, will 
 attract notice. No. 9.7 is the residence of M. 'Ihiers. This 
 f quarter is the favourite abode of artists7aWess'es"a?id femmes 
 I' galantes. Further down is the church of 
 
 ordered to Paris to answer for some strong political opinions 
 he had expressed while he was in garrison at Xtienee.— Hotel 
 ] des Droits de I’Hnmme, rue dn Mail, October, 1T94. Ihnaparte was 
 then general of artillery; his brother Louis and .iunot accoin- 
 i panied him as aides-de-camp. They lodged togeth’r on the 4th 
 ' story, at a rent of 27 livres in specie per month, fis friendship 
 * for Talma, which continued unabated to his death commenced 
 in this house, to which the great actor resorted to give lessons 
 in declamation to “ La citoyenne Petit,” afterwards.Mme. Talma. 
 —Ruede la Michodiere, No. 19. Being without enployment in 
 very narrow circumstances, and unwilling to go o La Vendee 
 as a general of infantry, Bonaparte occupied a smdl lodging in 
 the upper story of this house.— Hotel Mirabeau, rw. du Dauphin, 
 17 95 . Bonaparte disgraced occupied himself in visiting the dif- 
 ferent members of the National Convention, to sdicit employ- 
 ment. In this hotel he slept on the eve of the i3th Vend^miaire, 
 of that memorable day on which, having obtained the command 
 of the troops through the favour of Barras, he d-feated “ the 
 , sections,” and opened his way to the appointment of “ General 
 j in Chief of the Army of Italy.” — Hotel de la Colonnide, rue Neuve 
 des Capucines. Here Bonaparte installed himself on the i3th 
 Vend^miaire, and remained during the disarming of “ the 
 ' sections,” and here, on the 9tf March, i796, was celebrated his 
 y ' marriage with Josephine, widow of General Beauhanais, who had 
 V perished on the scaffold.— Hue Chantereine, No. 60 whither Bo- 
 naparte removed on his marriage with Josephine, fhis hotel he 
 left 2 ist March, i79G, to assume the command o the army of 
 Italy, and on Dec. 5 lh, 1797, returned to it, pre-eded by i70 
 / standards, 55 opieces of cannon, and 6o,ooo,ooofr. rsmittedto the 
 // Stale ; in honour of w'hich the municipality voted tlat the street 
 / should bear the name of the “ rue de la Victoire.’ llereBona- 
 parte received his appointment to the command of the expe- 
 dition to Egypt; and from this hotel emanated thise intrigues 
 which led to the i8th Brumaire and his dictatorshp. 
 
NOTRE DAME DE LORETfE. 217 
 
 Notre Dasj^^ de Lorette.— This beautiful church was 
 commencM^n'tS^Vaft^^^ th^ designs of M. Leilas. Its ex- 
 ternal dimensions are 204 feet by 96. A square campanile 
 crowns the roof of the choir. The portico is composed of four 
 Corinthian columns, supporting a pediment, in which are sculp- 
 tured in alto-rilievo the Virgin and infant Saviour adored by 
 angels. On the frieze is the inscription ; — beat^ marle vir- 
 fiiNi lauretanae. Over the pediment are the figures of Faith, 
 Hope, and Charity. The principal entrance under the portico 
 is flanked by smaller ones at the extremities of the facade. 
 In the interior two rows of eight Ionic columns, to the right 
 and left, separate the nave from the aisles; the choir terminates 
 in a hemicycle. Two more rows of columns separate the la- 
 teral chapels from the aisles ; the ceilings arc divided into com- 
 partments, richly sculptured and ornamented with rosettes, all 
 highly coloured or profusely gilt. At the entrance ol each aisle 
 is a semicircular chapel surmounted by a cupola ; that on the 
 right being the baptistery, where several frescos, by Blondel, 
 represent the fall and the regeneration of man ; in the cupola are 
 painted Intelligence, Innocence, Wisdom, and the Guardian 
 Angel, with the attributes of Baptism. At the other extremity 
 of this aisle is the chapel of the Holy Communion, painted by 
 Perin. The subject of the paintings is, Christ instituting the 
 Eucharist, variously illustrated. The walls are painted in 
 compartments, expressive of Faith, Hope, Charity, Truth, Hos- 
 pitality, 6cc. The pendentives represent the birth of Christ, 
 his preaching, sufferings, and death. In the other aisle, the 
 first chapel is dedicated to the dead, with paintings, by Blondel, 
 of the Besurrection, the Sepulchre, and various scenes of death 
 at different stages. At the opposite extremity is the chapel of 
 the Virgin, by Perin, in a style similar to that of the Com- 
 munion, representing her as the Queen of the Martyrs, 
 the refuge of sinners, etc. The remaining chapels, three in 
 each aisle, are separated by partitions, with doors to com- 
 municate. Their walls are covered with paintings, representing 
 passages from the lives of the saints to whom they are dedi- 
 cated (1). Over the columns and entablature of the nave are 
 8 beautiful frescos illustrative of the life of the Virgin, by 
 Dubois, Langlois, Vinchon, Monvoisin, Dejuinnes, Grange, 
 Hesse, and Coutan. The choir is fitted up with stalls ; 
 a gilt balustrade separates . it from the rest of the nave, and 
 its walls are incrusted with rich marbles. The high altar 
 is supported by columns of the Corinthian order, with 
 
 (i) By Hesse, Coutan, Alfred Johannot, Langlois, Caminade, 
 Decaisnes, Dejuinnes, Deveria, )Schnefz, Etex, Champmartin, 
 Couder, Goyet, Mesdames Varcolier, and Peherain. 
 
218 
 
 FOURTH WALK 
 
 gilt bronze bases and capitals. Over the stalls are jpainted 
 the Presentation in the Temple, by Heim, and Jesus in the 
 Temple, by Drolling. The dome of the choir is adorneed with 
 figures of the four Evangelists, by Delorme ; on the cconcave 
 ceiling Ijehind the high ahar is the Crowning of the Virggm, by 
 Picot, on a ground of gold. The cost of the church waas about 
 1,800,000 fr. Service is performed here with niuch pomp, 
 and the smging is remarkably good. 
 
 Descending the rue La ffltte (1) we find at Nos. 2 1 ; and 23 
 the splendid hotels'^ MessrsMlothschild. Here extensiive de- 
 molitions have been effected, whereby the Rue Lafayettte has 
 been prolonged, to the New Opera (see pp 213 andi 235). 
 Further down there is the rue Rossini, crossing the irue Le 
 Peletier, where the stranger will remark the French Opera 
 House (see Theatres). It was here the atrocious attempH upon 
 the lives of the Emperor and Empress took place (2)), Jan. 
 14th, 1858. Further on, in the rue Chauchat, is the 
 
 (1) This street was first called rued’ Artois, in honour of the 
 Comte d’Arlois. It was subsequently called r«e Cerutti, iin me- 
 mory of the Abb6 of that name, the editor of arevolutionarjy paper 
 called the “ Feuille Villageoisc,” and friend of Miraibeaiu and 
 Talleyrand. His house was the first in the street, wheire the 
 Maison Dor6e now stands. The rue Cerutti ended in a spdend d 
 hotel and grounds successively inhabited by M. Thelussom, the 
 rich banker, and Murat. Its site is now occupied by the street 
 and the church of Notre Dame de Lorette. In I8i5 it biecame 
 once more the rue d’ Artois, but received its present naime in 
 1830 ; the hotel of M. LaftUle, at the corner of the rue die Pro- 
 vence, having been the centre of operations at that period.. 
 
 (2) As the Imperial carriage, escorted by a detaehnnent of 
 Lancers, was approaching the Oper-a-house from the Rouhevard, 
 three explosive shells were thrown on the pavement jwst before 
 the body of the carriage, and bursting info fragments !«pread 
 destruction around. One ofthe horses of the Imperial cairriage 
 was killed on the spot, the other, being wounded, becarme un- 
 governable, and broke the pole against the door-post of fine ves- 
 tibule. Tbe coacbman and lackeys were all wounded; their 
 Majesties, as is well known, most providentially escaped uinhurt. 
 One hundred and forty-one persons among the by-standeirs, in- 
 cluding several Lancersrwere Wore or less severely wouinded; 
 eight were either killed on the spot or died of their wrounds. 
 The Imperial carriage xvas pierced with 43 holes made Iby the 
 fragments of the first shell only, and the windows of the Ihouses 
 opposite were broken up to the fourth story. Their Majesties in 
 so trying a moment evinced the, greatest presence of min(d, and 
 in company with the Duke of Saxe-Coburg, entered the t.lieatre 
 to allay by their presence the universal alarm which prewailed. 
 Four persons, named Orsini, Fieri, Hudio, andGomez, were sub- 
 sequently tfied for the crime, and the two former execufed. 
 
LA BOURSE. 
 
 219 
 
 ficLiSE EvangilLIQUE de LA REDEMPTION, a Lutheran 
 church ; it has a Doric portal, under a massive arch of ma- 
 sonry. The interior consists of a nave without aisles, ter- 
 minating in a heraicycle, and fitted up with pews and galleries. 
 
 At the corner of the rues Rossini and Drouot is a spacious 
 building, containing auction-rooms, and at No. 6, rue Drouot, 
 is the Mairie of the 9th arrondissement, established in the Hotel 
 Aguado. Continuing along the rue Grange Bateliere, we find 
 to the left the Passage Verdean, and opposite, the Passage 
 Jouffroy, leading to the Boulevard Montmartre. This, and 
 the Passage des Panoramas, on the opposite side of the Boule- 
 vard, are tlie most brilliant Passages of Paris. Close to the 
 latter stands the pretty Theatre des Varietes. (see Theatres.) 
 
 The adjoining Boulevard des Italiens, formerly known by 
 the name of Boulevard de Gand (l), is remarkable for its ele- 
 gant shops and cafes. At the corner of the rue Laffitte we see 
 the Maison Doree, occupied by a well-known restaurant. 
 There are other restaurants and coffee-houses of note on this 
 \ Boulevard ; such as Tortoni’s and the Cafe Riche. The two 
 ' Passages de I’ Opera, on the same Boulevard, deserve a visit. 
 In the rue Marivaux is the Opera Comiqne (see Theatres.) 
 
 The stranger will pass before some fine houses at the top of 
 rue Richelieu, built on part of the site of the Hotel Frascati, a 
 celebrated gaming-house, and then pass, by the rue St. Marc, 
 into the rue Neuve Vivienne. The shops of this quarter display 
 great elegance and taste. 
 
 Descending the rue Vivienne, we arrive at the Place de la 
 Bourse, on the west side of which is the Theatre du Vaude- 
 ville (see Theatres). Opposite stands 
 
 The Exchange, or La Bourse. — Meetings of merchants 
 for Uic'TTTrhsaclions of' business 'were held regularly for the 
 first time in 17 24, at the Hotel Mazarin, rue Neuve des Petits 
 Champs, the residence of Law, the financier. During the re- 
 volution of 17 89 they were removed to the Church des Petits 
 I Peres, then to the Palais Royal, and next to a temporary build- 
 ing in the rue Feydeau. The present building was erected 
 in 1808-182G, by Brongniart, on the site of the convent des 
 Filles St. Thomas. The Bourse is a parallelogram of 212 feet 
 by 126, and surrounded by 06 Corinthian columns, support- 
 I ing an entablature and attic, and forming a peristyle, which is 
 I approached by a flight of steps extending the whole length of 
 ' the western front. Over the entrance is inscribed ; — Bourse et 
 Trirunal de Commerce. The roof of this edifice is entirely iron 
 and copper. At the corners of the edifice are four statues, 
 
 (l) Thus named, because frequented by the legitimists, during 
 Louis XVllI.’s stay at Gand, at the time of the Hundred Days. 
 
FOURTH WALK. 
 
 220 
 
 placed there in 1852, those facing the Vaudeville representing 
 Commerce, by Dumont, and Consular Justice, by Duret ; and 
 those facing the rue Notre Dame des Yictoircs, Industry, by Pra- 
 dier, and Agriculture, by Seurre. The Salle de la Bourse in 
 the centre of the building, on the ground floor, where stock- 
 brokers and merchants meet, is 116 feet in length, by 7 6 in 
 breadth. It is Doric, and surrounded by two tiers of arcades, 
 the basement of which, as well as the sides of tlie hall, are of 
 marble. Below the upper cornice are inscribed in separate 
 medallions the names of the principal mercantile cities of the 
 world. Over the central arch is a clock, and opposite a dial- 
 plate marking tlie motions of a weatlier-vane outside. The 
 hall is lit from the roof, and a deeply-coved ceiling is covered 
 with admirable monochrome drawings, in 1 6 compartments, by 
 Abel de Pujol and Meynier ; the figures are lo feet high. (1) The 
 pavement of this hall, which will contain 2000 persons, is en- 
 tirely of marble. At its eastern end is a circular space, called 
 the parquet, railed round exclusively for the stock-brokers ; 
 another railed space to the left is for their assesscurs, or assist- 
 ants. Behind this is a room where the stock-brokers assemble be- 
 fore business. To the right are the chambers of the committee and 
 syndicate of the agents de change, and of the courtiers de com- 
 merce. On the left a wide staircase leads first to the offices for 
 transfers, then to a spacious gallery, supported by Doric co- 
 lumns, and to the Hall of the Tribunal of Commerce. A I the 
 opposite end is the Court of Bankruptcy ; its ceiling is vaxdted- 
 and painted in grisaille by Abel de Pujol, in allegorical com, 
 partments, representing Trades, Commerce, 6cc. From the gal- 
 lery a corridor extends all round, and communicates witli other 
 public offices ; this gallery commands the best view of the in- 
 terior, and of the decorations of the ceiling. Admittance to 
 the Bourse is free (2), except for the fair sex, [who arc not ab 
 
 (1) The subjects are : — On the left, Commercial France accept- 
 ing the Tribute of the four parts of the World — Europe — Asia — 
 the personificalion of the town of Nantes — that of Rouen. In 
 front, the city of Paris delivering the keys to the Genius of Com- 
 merce, and inviling Commercial Justice to enter the -walls pre- 
 pared for her — the personification of Die town of Lille — that of 
 Bordeaux. On the right, the Union of Commerce and the Arts 
 giving birth to the prosperity of the State — the personifications 
 of Africa — America — Lyons — Bayonne. Above tlie entrance the 
 City of Paris receiving from the nymph of the Seine and the 
 Genius of the Ourcq the productions of Abundance — personifica- 
 tions of Strasbourg — Marseilles. 
 
 (2) Before November 22 , 1861, an entrance-fee of one franc 
 was exacted, a regulation which was put in force in i857. The 
 annual snbscription for daily admittance between 12 and 3 wag 
 
BIBLlOTHfeQDE IMPERIALE. 221 
 
 lowed to enter without a permission from M. le Commissaire 
 de la Bourse, it having been found that the habit of visiting 
 this Temple of Plutus engendered a passion for gambling 
 among them. By way of compensation, many ladies indulge 
 their propensity for money speculations by loitering outside 
 the railing. The business hours are — for money transactions, 
 from 12 10 3; for mercantile purposes, from 3 to 5. The 
 bustle and animation among the speculators is a most curious 
 sight, and the din caused by the bawling of the stockbrokers 
 is bewildering. This splendid edifice cost 8,149,000 fr. 
 
 At No. 2, Place de la Bourse, there is the Chamber of 
 Commerce, and in the same building the small but well selected 
 Bibliotheque du Commerce, open daily to the public, holidays 
 excepted, from 11 to 4. In the rue de Richelieu is the 
 
 Place Louvois. — Here the French Opera-house formerly 
 stood ; but after the assassination of the Duke de Berri at the 
 entrance of that theatre, in 1820, it was removed, and an ex- 
 piatory monument was begun on the site under Charles X., 
 but the revolution of 1830 interfered xvith its completion, 
 and in 1835 the space was decorated with a fountain, at a 
 cost of about 100,000 fr. It is now an elegant square co- 
 vering 1776 sq. metres; the fountain, designed by Visconti, con- 
 sists of an ample octagonal basin of stone, out of which rises a 
 Slone pedestal, with 4 genii of galvanized cast-iron, riding on 
 spouting dolphins, supporting a patera. In the centre of this 
 stand four bronze caryatides, representing the Seine, the Loire, 
 the Saone, and the Garonne, supporting another patera sur- 
 mounted i)y an amphora out of which the water flows. 
 
 The long edifice opposite, in course of reconstruction, is the 
 Bibliotheque Imperiale. — From the introduction of Chris- 
 tianity into France to the time of St. Louis, the few books 
 existing in the kingdom belonged to the numerous convents 
 which had been successively established, and were confined to 
 copies of the Bible, treatises of the fathers, canons, missals, and 
 a few Greek and Latin authors. St. Louis caused copies to be 
 made of all these manuscripts, and had them arranged in a 
 room attached to the Sainte Chapelle. This collection the king 
 bequeathed to several monasteries. From St. Louis to king 
 John, we have no historical notice of any royal library ; and 
 even that possessed by the latter monarch did not exceed eight 
 or ten volumes. Charles V., his successor, who patronized 
 literature, caused many works to be copied, and others to be 
 translated; with these, and some that were presented to him, 
 
 I50fr., and for beyond that hour 73 fr. The City derived an 
 anuuai profit of 60o,ooofr. from these taxes, but public opinion 
 was so much against them that they were at length relinquished. 
 
222 FOURTH WALK. 
 
 he formed a library, consisting of 910 volumes. They were 
 deposited in a tower of the Louvre, called la Tour de la Li- 
 brairie, and consisted of iiluminated missals and other religious 
 works, legends of miracles, lives of saints, and treatises upon 
 astrology, geomancy, and palmistry. To afford literar y per- 
 sons an opportunity at all times of consulting this library, a 
 silver lamp was kept constantly burning. This collecliotn was 
 partly dispersed under Charles VI. The remainder disappeared 
 under the regency of the Duke of Bedford, who purchased it 
 for 1200 livres, and sent the greater part to England. Louis XI. 
 collected the books scattered through the various royal palaces, 
 to which he added several other collections; and, printing 
 having been recently invented, he purchased copies of all the 
 books that were published. In 149G, Louis XII. caused the 
 library of the Louvre to be transported to Blois, and also added 
 to the collection the libraries of the Sforza and Visconti from 
 Pavia, Petrarch’s collection, and the cabinet of Gruthuse, a 
 Flemish gentleman. In 1544, Francis I. had the whole removed 
 to Fontainebleau, and the catalogue of that date gives, as the 
 total of the collection, 1890 volumes, amongst which were 900 
 printed volumes, and 38 or 39 Greek MSS., brought from 
 Naples and deposited at Blois by Lascaris. This monarch 
 added greatly to the royal library, and first began the fonnation 
 of its celebrated cabinet of medals. Henry II. decreed that a 
 bound copy on vellum of every book printed should be deposited 
 in the royal library. In 1527, by the confiscation of the effects 
 of the Connetable de Bourbon, the library was increased; but 
 the Ligueurs carried off some of the most valuable manuscripts. 
 Catherine de Medicis left the royal library a collection of 
 medals and manuscripts which she had brought from Florence. 
 In 1594, Henry IV. had the library transferred from Fontaine- 
 bleau to Paris, and placed in the College de Clermont (now 
 Lycee Louis le Grand), left unoccupied by the Jesuits, recently 
 expelled from France. It was next transferred to the convent 
 of the Cordeliers, and under Louis XIIL, when it consisted of 
 1C,74 6 volumes, to a spacious house in the rue de la 
 Ilarpe. Louis XIV. increased the treasures of the royal 
 library considerably, and opened it to the public. In 
 1666, Colbert bought two houses adjoining his residence 
 in the rue Vivienne, to which the books were removed. 
 This extensive collection, daily swelled by presents, 
 purchases, ficc., contained at the death of Louis XIV., in 1715, 
 more than 70,000 volumes. Under the regency of the Duke of 
 Orleans, it was removed to the 4 )resent hotel, formerly occu- 
 pied by Cardinal Mazarin. Upon the suppression of the 
 monasteries in 1789, all the books belonging to them were de- 
 
BIBLIOTHtlQUE IMP^RIALE. 223 
 
 posited in the library, then called Bibliotheque Nationals, 
 a name it resumed in 1848, and retained until 1852, when it 
 received its present one. An annual grant is made by go- 
 vernment for the purchase of books, engravings, antiquities, 
 etc. The Bibliotheque Imperiale is divided into four depart- 
 ments ; 1 . Printed works, maps, and geographical collections ; 
 2. Manuscripts, genealogies, autographs, 8cc. ; 3. Medals, an- 
 tique gems, 8cc.; 4. Engravings. All these departments are 
 under the control of a responsible director, and each department 
 is superintended by a conservator and assistant conservator. 
 
 The length of the building is 540 feet, its breadth 130 ; its 
 total surface, including the courts, is 14,200 square metres. (1) 
 The principal court is partly laid out as a garden. Part 
 of the edifice is still under reconstruction . (2) 
 
 Library of Printed Works . — The number of volumes con- 
 tained in this section is estimated at 1,800,000, exclusive of 
 300,000 pamphlets. (1) Here we find the original model in 
 bronzed plaster, of the admirable statue of Voltaire, by Houdou, 
 the copy of which in while marble is at the Theatre Francais. 
 There is also a model of the Egyptian Pyramids, with the 
 snrronnding country. Here likewise are specimens of ancient 
 ornamental bookbinding, and also two models in porcelain, 
 brought from Canton, and presented to Louis XIV., of the 
 celebrated Porcelain Towers of China ; also a piece of sculpture 
 in bronze, executed in 1721, by Titon du Tillet, called the 
 “French Parnassus,” its summits and slopes covered with 
 figures in classic attire, representing the most celebrated 
 writers, each occupying an elevation proportionate to his 
 merit. There are also bnsts of Jean Panl and Jerome Bignon, 
 and of Van Praet, and an Egyptian bust of porphyry. The 
 library also possesses the “Description of the Papyrus of Nas- 
 
 (1) Cardinal Mazarin having married his niece Hortensia de 
 Mancini, in i66i, to the Duke de la Meilleraie, constituted him 
 his sole heir on condition that he would hear his arms and 
 name. On the death of the cardinal this palace was divided ; 
 that part towards the rue Richelieu came into the possession of 
 his nephew, the Marquis de Mancini, and was called Hotel de 
 Nevers. The other part, facing the rue Neuve des Petits Champs, 
 fell to the share of the Duke de Mazarin (de la Meilleraie), and 
 bore the name of Hotel de Mazarin, till 1719, when the Regent 
 bought and gave it to the India Company. The Exchange was 
 afterwards established there, and then the Treasury. 
 
 (2) The new galleries are entirely built of stone and iron ; in 
 some of the rooms not accessible to the public there are four 
 tiers of galleries connected together by iron bridges; the floor- 
 ing consists of parallel iron bars with spaces between, in order 
 not to deprive the lower tiers of the necessary day-light. 
 
224 FOURTH Walk. 
 
 Khein,” puhllshed by H.R.H, the Prince of Wales, and tbe 14 
 volumes of Prince Louis Lucien Bonaparte on languages. The 
 
 Collection of Maps and Globes is very curious and coiapdete, 
 containing about 300,000 maps, charts, views, 6cc. ; th<;. topo- 
 graphy of Paris alone occupies 5C large folio volumes. More 
 than 500 folios are filled with civil, military, and mariiK; maps 
 and plans, including some of Japan. Tables are proviJe(d for 
 students and amateurs. The 
 
 Collection of Manuscripts consists of about n 5,000 
 volumes, in Greek, Latin, Oriental, French, and other languages, 
 including 30,000 which relate to the history of France. The 
 catalogue of the manuscripts alone fills 24 volumes, besides 
 ample supplements to each. Many of the old bindings are very 
 costly, and most of them enriched with carvings of ivory, and 
 precious stones. The most remarkable room of all is a superb 
 gallery, which existed in the time of Cardinal Mazarin. Its 
 length is 140 feet, audits breadth 22. The ceiling, painted in 
 fresco, by Romanelli, in 1 C5 1 , represents various subjects of fa- 
 bulous history, in compartments. In this gallery are preserved 
 very valuable and curious manuscripts. Among them are: a 
 Latin manuscript of the Vlth century, on papyrus ; the 
 manuscripts of Galileo ; letters from Henry IV. to Gabrielle 
 d’Estrees; the prayer-books of St, Louis and Anne of Bri- 
 tanny, and one which belonged in succession to Charles V., 
 Charles IX., and Henry HI., and bears their signatures, all 
 beautifully written on vellum, and richly illuminated; the 
 manuscript of Telemachus, in Fenelon’s own hand ; autograph 
 memoirs ofLouis XIV., See. The mostancient manuscripts now 
 in this collection are some missals of the fifth century. 
 Among the foreign manuscripts are some Coptic, Persian, In- 
 dian, Arabic, Etliiopian, Chinese, Japanese, Armenian, Siamese, 
 6cc., remarkable for their beauty. A collection of autogragh 
 letters, of Henry IV., Louis XVL, Turenne, Mine, de Maintenon, 
 Voltaire, Mrne. deSevigne, Racine, Molih-e, Corneille, Boileau, 
 Delille, Bossuet, Mile, de la Valliere, Franklin, Rousseau, Lord 
 Byron, Montesquieu, and the Golden Bull of the Emperor Fre- 
 deric II., with its seal (1220) are arranged under glass frames, 
 At the extremity of the gallery is a fac-simile of a record of the 
 year 781, in Chinese and Syriac, found at Canton in 1628, 
 giving an account of the arrival of Syrian missionaries in 
 China, in the 7 th and 8th centuries. The reading-room of the 
 
 (1) Owing to the alterations in progress, little of this is now 
 visible. In i 860 , the heart of Voltaire, long deposited at the 
 Chateau de la Villette, near Pont St. Maxence (Oise), was trans- 
 ferred to the Imperial library in the presence of fhe Ministers of 
 the Interior and Public Instruction. 
 
BIBLIOTHEQUE IMPERIALE. 0,25 
 
 maaiisciipt department isopen to students daily (i). The 
 Cabinet of Medals and Antiques is now transferred to 
 the new buildings, and is provisionally accessible by the first 
 door from the corner of the rue Richelieu. (2) To be ad- 
 mitted the visitor must ring the bell, and on enterincr the 
 vestibule will find to his left the Chamber of the Kiiws of 
 Karnac, a monument transported hither from Thebes “and 
 consisting of a series of Egyptian bas-reliefs. Fronting the 
 cntiauce, he will see the celebrated Zodiac of Denderah and 
 under it the porphyry bath in which Clovis was baptized 
 Ascending the staircase, the walls of which are studded with 
 old Greek and Roman inscriptions, the visitor on rin"in<^ 
 another bell on the lirst floor, is ushered into the Cabinet” 
 comprising two rooms : the one to the right, called Salle de 
 Luynes, contains the magnificent collection presented to the 
 Imperial Library by the Due de Luynes. It consists of a 
 series of Greek and Etruscan vases, adorned with pictures 
 Greek armour and various utensils, bronze statuettes, and a 
 valuable collection of medals and signet-rings the whole 
 valued at 1,400,000 fr. The room to the left, lit by seven 
 windows, contains the old collection, which is considered one 
 of the richest m Europe. In 1789, all the antiques in 
 the treasuries of the Sainte Chapelle and Abbey of SL Denis 
 weie added to this cabinet ; it also includes the superb col- 
 lection of the Comte de Caylus, and 9o antique bronzes and 
 terra-cottas bequeathed by the late Vicomte de Jawze. Among 
 the most remarkable relics here preserved there are two large 
 carved silver discs ; the lesser one, found in the Rhone near 
 Avignon, is improperly called the shield of Scipio ; the larger 
 tound in the Dauphine, is called the shield of Hannibal • there 
 IS also a large oval black marble carved with cuneiform cha- 
 racters, besides a vast number of cameos, seals, intaglios 
 abraxas, talismans, and oriental inscriptions Some of the 
 glass stands contain various curious objects found in the tomb 
 ot Lliilderic, and a large cameo representing the Apotheosis of 
 Augustus ; two Etruscan vases, found at Agylla, and presented 
 y Prince Torlonia to Louis Philippe. Among the modern 
 busts winch adorn this room, the most conspicuous are those 
 of Napoleon III., by Pollet, and of the Abbd Barthelemy bv 
 Houdon. It IS to be hoped that the reconstruction of this 
 edifice will not entail the destruction of the valuable frescoes 
 by Vanloo, Natoire, and Boucher, which adorn the walls of 
 
 15 
 
fourth walk. 
 
 the principal room containing this collection. One of these 
 frescoes represents Louis XV. in the character of Apollo. (1) 
 
 A catalogue has been published, the 
 
 Collection of Enqravings, is open to students is situ- 
 
 ated on the ground floor of the wing opposite the entrauce. 
 About 157 6, under the reign of Henry III., Claude Mangis, 
 Abbot of St. Ambrose and almoner to the Queen, hrst 
 conce ved the idea of forming a cabinet of engravings, lbs 
 coLction with Marie de Medicis putting him frcquen y 
 in communication with the Florentines, he enriched Ins 
 collection with the works of the liest Italian engiaveis. 
 SL Delo.m«, physician to the Queen “vmg .nte 
 
 ihp rol lection of the abbot, added it to anothei col 
 lection formed by the Abbe de Merolles, 
 
 niirchased bv Colbert in 1067, were placed in the lue lliche 
 C fhe X’s collection comprised 440 volumes, containmg 
 abok nlooo prints, and to this 
 acquisitions— that of Gaigmeres, in 17 11; of 
 1731 • of Marshal d’Uxelles, m 17 53 ; of Begon, in 177 0, and 
 several others less considerable. This collection now occupies 
 a splendid gallery, built by Mansard, the exact counteipait (the 
 frescos excepted) of the Gallery «^Manuscnpts^(see p^ 2240 
 under which it is situated. It has ^ f e en^ 
 
 iiws are arranged in commodious book-cases, and theie aie 
 
 six tables with double desks for 
 
 dents, who are admitted on Mondays, Wednesday^ ^ 
 and Saturdays- on Tuesdays and Iridays ^ li..e the e. 
 open to the public. It is preceded by a ° ooo 
 
 eiwravings in frames. The collection is composed of 1 .-i 20,000 
 ZiZinls, contained in upwards of 9,000 volumes or po t- 
 folTos The 15th century is represented by the works of 16 
 enTavers among which may be remarked an anonvmous 
 piece of the date 1400, as well as the productions of Maso 
 Finimierra, Martin Schoengauer, and Israel Van Mechen. ihc 
 en^i^vers of the 16th century whose works are exhibited h e 
 aS 14 in number, comprising Albert Durer, Marc-A^ny 
 Raimondi of Bologna, &c.; besides a piece curious as bein,^the 
 production of Jean Duvet, the first French engraver, boin 
 
 ( 1 ) It is worthy of observation that, eolle'^^^ 
 
 revolutions, this Library, 
 
 lion of gems, medals, coins, &c., was s 1 «spec - , mi 
 
 the thieves of Paris were less J^.^victs 
 
 the numismatic department was entered hj " ” 
 
 named Fossard and Drouillet. and rdnndeied of ^ va t qi^ 
 
 of valuable coins and medals. A 
 
 brought to light again in i8'o7, througli the accidental . 
 
 a notorious gang of thieves. 
 
BiBLiOTHEQUE IMPERIALE. 227 
 
 in 1485. Fifty-one engravers, among whom ai'e some of the 
 celebrated painters of Germany and Italy, as well as some 
 French engravers of merit, form the historical series for the 
 17th century, and their works include some magnificent nlatcs 
 ^ the age of Louis XIV. The collection of the Chevaliel- 
 Hennin, relating to the history of France, was added in 1863 
 Ihis series comprises about 20,000 pieces, several of the 
 time of Henry IV. The series for the I8th and I9th cen- 
 turies are too numerous and too well known to need de- 
 scription. Persons desirous of examining the volumes should 
 ask in the schools of Italy, for the work^s of MicLT/ngd^ 
 Raphae Titian, Correggio, the Carracci, and Guido -in 
 those of Germany, Albert Durer and Holbein in those of the 
 Netherlands, Rembrandt, Rubens, and Van Dyck ^3n ta 
 of France, Poussin, Le Brun, Le Sueur, and Rigaud. Amongst 
 the foreign engravers, the works of Raimondi, Hollar, Crispin 
 de Pas, Goltzius Bloemart, and Remain de Hogue ; among the 
 French, those of Callot Mellan, Silvestre, Nanteuil, Picart, 
 Le Clerc, Ldelinck, Audran, Le Bas, Wille, Moreau, and Du- 
 plessis Bertaux. In natural history there are many plates of 
 birds and plants beautifully coloured, such as the ^pigeons of 
 Madame Knip, the birds of paradise of Levaillant, the flowers 
 ot Prevost, the hliaceae and roses of Redoute. The portraits 
 to the number of 9o,ooo, are divided in each country iccording 
 to the rank or profession of the individuals, and are classed in 
 chronological or alphabetical order. The series of the costumes 
 of various countries and different ages cannot be viewed with- 
 out interest. The history of France fills 85 portfolios up to 
 17 S9 and 00 more have been added since that time ; when com- 
 pletely classified, it will form a collection of 150 volumes. The 
 Rearhng-Room, for printed works, which is different from 
 that ot Hie manuscripts, is situated on the first floor of the 
 
 Sous o1- nliVl ^ generally crowded by the 
 
 studious ot all classes, among whom will be seen several ladies. 
 
 Tables occupy the centre. The visitors are obliged to provide 
 
 tSh d?r^ conversation is permitted, 
 
 the student, on entering, receives a printed paper, on which 
 
 (I) The new reading-room, Avhich is now comnleted occn- 
 Court, and forms a large ’square 
 36 metres ea.di way. Ils roofing is of iron, supported by 16 
 
 h? i™e’narl'’' by ju'clies, which divide fherjom 
 
 liLhf Imi 1 r 'CO" net-work is extremely 
 
 Srav ' a^d 0 Id '-7" executed in carmine, white, 
 
 gray, and gold, there are a tables for readers, with hot- 
 
 cises'^anVrTr "ce lined with boob- 
 
 cases, and three tiers of galleries run all round. 
 
228 FOURTH WALK, 
 
 he writes his name and address ; he then applies to the libra* 
 rians in the centre of the gallery for another paper on which 
 he writes his name and address as before, and the title of the 
 book he wants. With this paper he returns to the librarians, 
 'who refer him to the proper official. On recehing the book, 
 he must get the title written on the first paper by another 
 clerk and not until then can he enjoy his book, on returning 
 which, he must get the first paper signed by the clerk who 
 wrote the title upon it. Literary persons well recommended 
 can have books out of the library ; foreigners can also obtain 
 this favour, but only by an official application from then- 
 ambassador. The gallery is heated in 
 stoves in insulated cellars, and is open fi'om / 0 to ^aily 
 holidays excepted. In an adjoining room, ca led baffe des 
 Globes, are two immense copper globes nearly 12 feet m dia- 
 meter, and executed at Venice, by Pietro Coronelli, order of 
 the Cardinal d’Estrees, who in 1683 presented them to Louis 
 XIV to whom they were dedicated. The works are arranged 
 according to the system of Debure, a celebrated bibliophilist. 
 On the ground floor are modern folio editions, on '^ttum, 8cc., 
 or copies remarkable for the richness of their bidding (1) 
 The reading-room is closed to the public for a fortnight at 
 Faster that being the only vacation allowed during the 
 except common holidays. Doring the summer- 
 time the functionaries get a months holidays by private 
 agreements among themselves. 
 
 Continuing along the rue de Richelieu, the stranger will 
 
 perceive the elegant . e . ..... 
 
 Fontaine Moliere — at the corner of the street of that name, 
 i This fine monument was erected by public subscription to the 
 ■ memory of the immortal Moliere, the greatest comic winter that 
 France ever produced. It consists of a niche with two detached 
 i Corinthian columns on each side, surmounted by a semicirculai 
 pediment, ornamented with sculpture and dramatic attributes. 
 A statue of Moliere, in bronze, is m the niche 
 
 semicircular pedestal, in a sitting posture, and in the attitude 
 of meditation. On each side of the statue, and iii front ot the 
 columns, are allegorical figures with extended ^mgs repie^ 
 senting, one the humorous, and the other the c laiac 
 
 of liis plays, and in the act of raising up their eyes towaids him. 
 They kch bear a scroll, on which are inscribed m chronological 
 order all the pieces written by Moliere. The basement is richly 
 
 Ttie catalogue of the Bibliothfique Impdriale is making 
 vaS progiS The fu-sl volume, relallng to the Hisloey ot France, 
 has bemi finished under the direction of M. Taschereau. 
 
PLACE DES VICTOlIlES. 
 
 229 
 
 sculptured, and at its foot is a semi-octagonal basin to receive 
 the water, which issues from three lions’ heads. The in- 
 scriptions are t ^ ]\folz6T6* iVe a Putzs^ 15 JctnviBv 1622 
 etmortd Paris le 17 Fevrier 1673, with the year 1844 over 
 the niche. The monument is 50 feet high, by 20 wide and 
 isinthestyle of the time of Louis XIV. Itcost 452,000 fr’(i) 
 Nearly opposite. No. 34, stands the house in which Moliore 
 died, bearing the inscription : Moliere est mart dans celte 
 maison, le 17 fevrier 1673, d I’dge de 51 ans. 
 
 ter, formed in 1 685, by order of the Duke de La Feuillade and 
 designed by Mansard. The architecture consists of Ionic ni- 
 lasters, upon an arcaded basement. In the centre was a ailt 
 pedestrian statue of Louis XIV., in his coronation robes, crowned 
 by Victory, and treading a Cerberus beneath his feet - at the 
 corners of the pedestal, four bronze figures of enslaved nations 
 represented the power of the monarch. In 1790, these fimres 
 were removed, and are nowin the Louvre, with the bronze bas- 
 reliefs of the pedestal. The statue was destroved nn Ana in 
 
 FIFTH ITALK. 
 
 Commencing this walk, which extends over part of the 2 d 
 
 9th and loth arrondissements, by the rue Vivienne we find 
 the fine Passages Vivienne and Colbert, which formed nart of 
 
 fnp VlAfpl Jinrl oraivloivo rxf t /-i n . _ 
 
 ww J.XV.UVC uca i'ciua uiiamps lO me 
 Place des Victoires, — a circular space, 24 0 feet in diame- 
 
230 FIFTH WALK. 
 
 Fronting the rue de Catinat is the 
 
 Banque de France, erected by Mansard, for the Duke dn la 
 Vrilliere, in 1620, and purchased by the Count do Tou- 
 louse, a natural sou of Louis XIV., in 1713. Al the 
 time of the revolution it was occupied by the Due de Pen- 
 thievre and the Princess de Lamballe, son and grand-daughter 
 of the Count de Toulouse. The national printing-office was 
 afterwards established in it, until it was appropriated to its 
 present use in 1812. Its spacious apartments were formerly 
 gorgeously decorated, and the ceiling of the Galerie Doree still 
 displays some beautiful paintings, by Francois Perrier. The 
 most remarkable part of the buildings are the cellars where 
 I all the bullion is kept. They are only accessible by a single 
 h winding staircase, admitting but one person at a time ; and 
 in case of alarm they can be inundated, or filled with me- 
 j phitic vapours, so as to suffocate any one attempting to enter 
 I them. This palace has now been considerably enlarged, on 
 ' the side of the late rue Baillif, now suppressed (see p. 107). 
 
 In the Place des Petits Peres, we find the 
 Fglise des Petits Peres, or de Notre Dame des Victoires. 
 —This church, erected in 1656, after the designs of P. Lemuet, 
 stands on the site of one dedicated by Louis XIII. to Notre 
 Dame des Victoires, in commemoration of his victories, and the 
 capture of La Rochelle, and served as the chapel to a com- 
 munitv of bare-footed Augustin monks. (1) The form of the 
 edifice“is a Roman cross; its length is 133 feet, its breadth 33, 
 and its height 56. The portal, built in 1739 by Caitaud, is 
 Ionic and Corinthian ; the interior is Ionic. The chief works 
 of art in this church are seven large pictures by Vanloo m the 
 choir, the central one representing Louis XIII . and Richelieu 
 thanking the Virgin for the fall of La Rochelle, and the six 
 remaining ones illustrating the principal passages in the lite 
 of St Au'^ustin, viz., to the spectator s right, his baptism, oi- 
 dination, and death ; and on the opposite side his preachin^g, 
 his disputation with the Donatists, and the removal of his 
 relics. The other remarkable paintings are a Presentation ot 
 the Virgin in the Temple ; the Immaculate Conception, by 
 Lafontaine, an Assumption, by Lavergne, and a Mater Dolo- 
 rosa, by Lafon. In the third chapel after the transept is the 
 monument of the celebrated composer Lully ; under the sollit 
 of the door leading to it are Latin distiches in his honour. In 
 
 fi) This community was called “ Petits P^res, hccause two 
 of the most zealous for the cstahlishment of hetv order in Pa- 
 ris who were men of small stature, heing introduced into the 
 antechamher of Henry IV., the lung said, “ Qui sont ces petils 
 P^ires-lu’” from which time they retained the name. 
 
HOTEL DU TIMBRE. 231 
 
 the first chapel to the right there is a colossal statue of St. 
 Peter executed in bronze. All the piers of the nave are covered 
 with votive tablets of white marble, of uniform size. During 
 the revolution of 17 89 this church was used as the Exchange. 
 
 The Rue Neuve de la Banque, a street opened in 1847, form- 
 ing a communication between the Exchange and the Bank of 
 France, contains, at No. 8, the new Mairie of the 2d arrondisse- 
 ment, erected on the site of the Convent des Petits Peres. Adjoin- 
 ing are tlie new barracks of the Garde de Paris, remarkable 
 for their castellated design. Over the entrances there are 
 four statues, representing Force, Prudence, Vigilance, and 
 Public Order. The ground-floor is loop-holed. Opposite is the 
 Hotel du Timbre or Stamp-Office, erected at a cost of 
 1,298,000 fr. — In the tympan of the pediment of the arched 
 entrance there is an escutcheon surmounted by the Gallic cock, 
 flanked by the fasces of the Republic, and by two lions cou- 
 chant, by Jacquemard. Below are two medallions by Ou- 
 dine, representing Law and Security, and between them the 
 inscription ; Timbre Imperial. The southern building con- 
 tains the offices of the Direction des Domaines; the northern 
 those of the Direction de I’Enregistrement. 
 
 In the rue Notre Dame des Victoires, No. 28, is the immense 
 establishment of the Messageries Imperiales, communicating 
 with rue Montmartre, where, at No. 144, we see the 
 Marche St. Joseph, built in 1813 and 1814. AtNo. 17Cisthe 
 Hotel d’Uzes, built by Ledoux, the property of M. Delessert. 
 The entrance is Doric, and adorned with trophies. 
 
 A sharp conflict occurred on Feb. 24th, 1 848, at the entrance 
 of rue du Faubourg Montmartre, between the people and Garde 
 Municipale. At No. 27, boulevard Poissonniere, is the Bazar 
 de V Industrie, with an arched ceiling, painted in compartments 
 by Fossey, Papin and Guersant, with portraits of Jefferson, 
 Fulton, Lavoisier, Poussin, Vaucanson, &cc. The central com- 
 partment represents France protecting the Arts and Manufac- 
 tures. Near this, at No. 23, is 
 
 Hotel de Montholon, a building of the Ionic order, now 
 occupied by an upholsterer. At No. 14 is the il/afson du Pont 
 de Fer, witli an iron bridge connecting the back buildings with 
 the front and boulevard. It is composed of shops, warehouses, 
 and mei'chants’ counting-houses. 
 
 At No. 15, rue du Faubourg Poissonniere, we find the 
 Conservatoire Imperial de Musique (seep. loo). — The 
 entrance is Ionic, and surmounted by statues of the Muses of 
 Tragedy aud Music, and those of Sappho and Orpheus. In the 
 court is a small and very pretty Theatre, denominated Salle des 
 Concerts, sometimes used for theatrical representations. This 
 
232 FIFTH WALK. 
 
 establishment possesses a valuable Collection of musical in- 
 struments, bought in 1861 from the late M. Clapisson, an 
 eminent composer. Its conservator is now M. Berlioz. 
 Some are interesting. There is a h ^psichord , with two key- 
 boards. bearing date 1612, the work of several artists and 
 different pmods. OiTTITe front is a painting by Teniers, and 
 the inside is from the pencil of Paul Bailie. Also several very 
 valuable spinnets, particularly an Italian one of the time of 
 Louis XIV., with ornaments in engraved amber, and garlands 
 of flowers and Cupids by Poussin. There is another of the 
 time of Francis I., in ebony, richly inlaid with ivory, and 
 beariii" the inscription — FranciscidiPortalopisVeronen. Opus, 
 1523 r likewise, one of the 16th century, in marquetry, 
 having the corners of the key-board ornamented with carya- 
 tides hi box, carved with exquisite fineness. There are also 
 several harps, one of which, of the time of Louis XVI. , be- 
 lon<^ed to the Princess de Lamballe, and bears her name in the 
 inside ; also, a lyre, painted by Prudhon, which belonged to 
 Garat, and bears his initials ; a portable organ constructed in 
 China, and presented in 1858 to the Prince Imperial ; a spinnet 
 by Hon Ruker, dated 1590, in a beautiful lacquer case; a 
 harpsichord made for Queen Marie-Antoinette, by Pascal 
 Taskiii, in 1790, several theorbos, in ebony and ivory, 8cc. 
 This collection is visible to the Public on Sundays from 1 2 to 
 4, and on Thursdays with a ticket from the Ministre de la 
 Maison de VEmpereur. 
 
 In the adjoining rue Ste Cecile is the church of 
 
 Saint Eugene, designed by M. Boileau. The front is 
 Gothic, occupying a breadth of 88 feet ; the height is 82 feet, 
 and the length 131 feet. The interior consists of a nave separated 
 from the aisles by rows of six slender columns, supporting the 
 groins of the roof, while spacious galleries, accessible-by wind- 
 ing staircases at each end, run along the aisles. All the co- 
 lumns, groinings, and arches, are of iron, painted and gilt in 
 the Byzantine style. The apsis, where the high altar stands, is 
 pierced with three large tri-composed windows, with subjectsexe- 
 cuted in stained glass, representing ; 1 . The Holy Supper ; 2 . The 
 Ascension; 3. Christ in the Garden of Gethsemane. Flantnng 
 the apsis are lateral chapels, facing the aisles, the windows 
 represent, each in six compartments, in that to the right; 
 Passages from the life of St. Eugene ; in that to the left ; Pas- 
 sages from the life of the Virgin, by Ledoux. The subjects of 
 the 14 lateral windows, best viewed from the galleries, com- 
 prise the chief incidents of our Saviour’s lile (1) in stained 
 
 G) LeH gallery on entering- i. The Holy Family; 2 . Simeon 
 
BOULEVARD DE MAGENTA. 233 
 
 glass. Those on the ground-floor, by Seguin, form the series 
 of the Via Crucis. 
 
 The rue du Faubourg Poissonniere meets, close to the in- 
 fantry barracks at No. 82, the new 
 
 Rue Lafayette, one of the longest thoroughfares of Paris, 
 and now continued to the Rue de la Chausse6 d’Antin. Fol- 
 lowing it to our left, we arrive at the 
 
 Square Montholon, a new public garden, covering a space 
 of 4,307 square metres, and tastefully arranged with a grotto, 
 a cascade, and gravel-walks between beds of flowers and or- 
 namental shrubs. 
 
 A few steps further on we find the Place Cadet, where a 
 coffee-house commemorates by its name “ Anx Pore herons ” a 
 favourite place of resort of the lower orders in the last century. 
 
 At No. 23, rue Lamartine, there is a synagogue of the Por- 
 tuguese rite. The interior is plain. 
 
 In rue Rochechouart, (1) corner of rue Petrelle, there is a 
 spacious building, called Cite Napoleon, originally built for 
 workmen ; but the regulations of this establishment not being 
 to their taste, it was subsequently let out to different occu- 
 pants of all ranks (2). 
 
 In the Avenue Trudaine, now one of the finest in Paris, 
 is the new Ecole Commerciale, under the superintendance of 
 the Chamber of Commerce, It is a building of simple but 
 el/';;, at design, fronted by a spacious court (see p. loo). 
 
 ine rue de Dunkerque, opposite, leads to the Place du Nord, 
 intersected by the new 
 
 Roulevard de Magenta, which reaches northward to the 
 exterior Roulevard des Poissonniers, and meets the interior 
 Roulevards at the Chateau d’Eau. 
 
 blessing the infant Jesus ; 3. The Adoration of the Magi ; 4 . An 
 Angel ministering to Jesus ; s. Jesus aiding Joseph in'his craft ; 
 6. Jesus disputing in theTemple ; 7. St. John the Baptist preach- 
 ing. In the opposite gallery: 8. Christ delivering the Keys to 
 Peter; g. Christ calling Children around him; lo. The Adul- 
 tress; 11 . Christ healing the Blind ; i 2 . Christ conversing with 
 the Woman of Samaria; 13 . Christ preaching on the Mount; 
 and 14. Christ at the Feast of Cana. 
 
 ( 1 ) Where the barritsrc of this name stood, a murderous combat 
 took place on June 25 , i 848. The insui’gents had erected three 
 formidable barricades, outside the octroi wall, which they had 
 pierced with loop-holes. The National Guards of Rouen, who 
 had come to the succour of Paris, took this stronghold after an 
 obstinate struggle. 
 
 ( 2 ) Hoiises for workmen are building at La Chapelle, the 
 Batignolles, Faubourg St. Antoine, Grenelle, and near the 
 Avenues Lowendal and S^gur. See also pp. 45n, 28 O, 546, 58T, 
 
234 FIFTH WALK. 
 
 Turning into the rue St. Vincent de Panic to the left, w( 
 perceive tlie 
 
 IIopiTAL Lariboisiere, begun under Louis Philippe, and 
 named after Mine. Elisa Roy, Comtesse de Lariboisiere, who 
 at her death left 2 , 900,000 fr. for the erection of this hos- 
 pital, which, however, has cost 10,445,000 fr. The plan of this 
 vast and fine edifice, which covers a space of 5 t ,87 3 metres, is 
 rectangular, A tasteful colonnade fronts a spacious court, 
 enclosed by eight uniform pavilions separated from one ano-i 
 ther by smaller courts and gardens. Each pavilion has two 
 stories besides the ground floor, and fifteen windows in front, , 
 The offices and lodgings of the officials occupy the two first 
 pavilions; the others contain the sick -wards, dispensary, 
 bathing establishment, and laundry. The chapel, which 
 is Doric and Ionic, is at the end of the court, facing the entrance. 
 It contains a splendid monument to the Countess, by Maroc- 
 chetti. A sarcophagus of black marble is surmounted by aj| 
 group, composed of an angel supporting a dying man and ail 
 distressed orphan. The monument is flanked by figures repre- 
 senting Maternal Solicitude, and the Repose of Old Age. An 
 arched portico runs all round the court. It was opened in 
 1853, and contains 012 beds. Admission on Thursdays and' 
 Sundays from l to 3. Architect, M. Gauthier (see p. 139.) | 
 
 At the opposite end of the same street stands the church of^ 
 
 St. Vincent de Paule, which has its front and principaL 
 entrance facing the place Lafayette. This structure, the firststone 
 of which was laid in 1824, was inaugurated on Oct. 27, 1844. 
 
 Exterior. — A broad flight of steps, flanked by graceful 
 elliptical carriage-ways, gives access to the building, which 
 forms a parallelogram externally 243 feet by 108, and 
 internally 198 feet by 102. Two lofty square towers, with 
 Corinthian pilasters at the angles, rise from each side of a 
 beautiful Ionic portico, crowned with a triangular pdiment, 
 witli double ranges of fluted columns. In the field o: the pe- 
 diment is sculptured the figure of the patron saint, with Cha- 
 rity and Religion by his side, and sisters of Charity kneeling 
 before him, while compassionate females afford nourishment to 
 foundlings. The attic above has statues of the four Evaigelists, 
 by MM. Valois, Foyatier, and Rruau, Statues of St. Paul and 
 St.John the Baptist are seen in the niches of the towers, each of 
 which has a dial-plale, one for the hours, and one fa‘ the day 
 of the monlh. The bronze gates of the principal entrance 
 represent in different compartments Christ and the apistles. 
 
 Interior. Over the principal entrance, the comice and 
 jambs of which are profusely sculptured and gilt, tie visitor 
 will observe the splendid organ, by M. Cavalliei, placed 
 
NORTHERN RAILWAY. 235 
 
 there in 1852, and a circular window, representing in stained 
 glass St. Vincent de Paule surrounded by the Sisters of 
 Charity. The body of the church is divided, by four eustyle 
 rows of eleven Ionic columns each, into a nave and four aisles; 
 the si'de aisles are each separated by richly-gilt bronze railings 
 into four lateral chapels; similar railings line the intervals of 
 the columns throughout the church, and divide the nave from 
 the stiaii-circular choir, which is surmounted by a semi-cupola 
 pierced with a skylight, and supported by fourteen Ionic co- 
 lumns. An arch 60 feet in height, richly sculptured on either 
 surface, gives access to it from the nave. The stalls of the 
 choir are richly carved in oak with figures of saints, and the 
 same taste is observable in the decorations of the pulpit and 
 other wooden furniture of the church. Sixteen gilt candelabra 
 of exqaisite workmanship are placed along the stalls, and four 
 colossal ones with foliaged stems stand before the high altar, 
 which consists of an arch and pediment resting upon six clus- 
 tered and richly foliaged columns. The altar-piece is a Crucifix 
 of bronze, and the table of the altar is adorned with a bas-relief 
 of the Last Supper. Behind the choir is the Lady Chapel, with 
 a beautiful image of the Virgin and Saviour on stained glass in 
 the window. The lateral chapels also have stained windows, 
 severally representing, in the aisle to the right, St. Francis de 
 Sales, St. Elizabeth, St. Martin, and the Baptism of Christ; in 
 that to the left, the Saviour, St. Denis, Ste. Clotilde, and St. 
 Charles Borromeo. The chapels are covered with bays of 
 roofing, painted and gilt ; and in keeping with these is the roof 
 of the nave, supported by (deven plain triangular trusses, and 
 resting over the gallery of the nave, fronted by Corinthian 
 columns. The frieze is adorned with portraits of canonized 
 pontiffs; and groups of apostles, prophets, martyrs, fathers 
 of the Church, and holy women, painted by Flandrin. The 
 serni-cupola of the choir, painted by Picot, represents the 
 Saviour, surrounded by Angels, with St. Vincent de Paule 
 at his feet. Those works of art have cost the City 256,300fr. 
 Architects, MM. Lepere and llittorf. 
 
 L The Place Lafayette, in front of this was the scene of a 
 |jbloody conflict in .Time 1848. Following the immense Rue 
 I iLafayelte (seep. 218) eastwards, we see, facing the Boule- 
 I vardDenain, the new and magnificent front of the 
 
 Nokthern Railw ay Terminus^ leading to Englan d and 
 %lgiui n. The facmcle, 180 metres in lengtlqls corapoie3~br 
 tw^ lofty corner-pavilions of Ionic design, connected ])y two- 
 storied Doric galleries with the main central pavilion, 38 metres 
 in height, and consisting of a lofty central arch and two 
 small lateral ones, crowned with two raking cornices forming 
 
236 FIFTH WALK, 
 
 a gable. Doric colonnades connect the piers of the arches. 
 Twenty-three statues adorn this front ; the principal are : 
 Paris, by Cavelier, occupying the topmost point ; then Brus- 
 sels and St. Petersburg, by Jouffroy ; Amsterdam, by Gumery ; 
 Francfort, by Thomas ; London and Vienna, by Jaley ; Berlin, 
 by Peraud, and Cologne, by Moreau. The" other statues, 
 by various eminent artists, represent Amiens, Lille, Beauvais, 
 Cambray, St. Quentin, Boulogne, Compiegne, Rouen, Arras, 
 Laon, Calais, Valenciennes, Dunkirk and Douai. Laterally, 
 Ih^ departure-gallery to the left , and tiie arrival-gallery to the 
 right, present a series of Tuscan pilasters, ending in pavilions 
 similar to the corner ones of the fi’ont. The surface covered 
 by this splendid terminus measures 40,000 square metres ; 
 the arrival and departure sheds in the centre are 70 metres in 
 breadth, and 230 in length. 
 
 Turning northward into the rue dn Faubourg St. Denis, we 
 see at No. 200 the 
 
 Maison Imperiale de Sant^, (see p. 142). The pre- 
 sent edifice was built in 1858, to replace one further down, 
 it occupies 12,000 square metres of ground, and contains 300 
 beds, besides baths, gardens, 8cc. 
 
 At the junction of the rue du Faubourg St. Denis and the 
 Boulevard de Magenta, we find, at No. 107, the 
 
 Prison St. Lazare, formerly a convent of the Lazarists, 
 or Priests of the Mission, now a prison for female offenders 
 (see p. 78, &c.) It was once a place of much cele- 
 brity, and in remote times the remains of the kings and 
 queens of France were conveyed to the convent of St. Lazare 
 previous to being transported to St. Denis. To see the interior 
 apply by letter to the Prefect of Police. Returning to the 
 boulevard by the rue du Faubourg St. Denis, w'e find the 
 
 Porte St. Denis. — This triumphal arch, which stands 
 upon the site of the Porte St. Denis, built under Charles IX., 
 was erected by the City of Paris in 1672, after the designs of 
 Blondel, to celebrate the rapid victories of Louis XIV., 
 It is 72 feet in height; the principal arch is 25 feet wide, 
 and 43 in height, and in the piers are two arches, 5 
 feet in breadth by lo in height. Over the lateral arches 
 are pyramids in relief rising to the entablature, and sur- 
 mounted by globes bearing fleurs-de-lis and crowns. Their 
 surfaces are sculptured with military trophies, and on those 
 towards the city are colossal allegorical figures of Holland and 
 the Rhine. Those towards the fauboui'g have lions couchant 
 and trophies. Above the arch is a bas-relief ; Louis XIV. on 
 horseback, crossing the Rhine, at Tollhuis ; on the frieze, in 
 bronze letters : Ludovico Magno. The bas-relief of the oppo- 
 
iNOTRE DAME DE BONNE NOUVELLE. 237 
 
 site side represents the taking of Maestricht. In the spaudrils 
 are figures of Fame. On the north side is the inscription : 
 Quod trajectum ad Mosam XIII. diebus ceplt. 
 
 Prsefectus et jEdiles ponL cc. anno Domini MDCLXXIII. 
 
 To the south : 
 
 Quod diebus vix sexaginta Rhenum^ Wahalim^ Mosam^ Isalam 
 superavit; subegit provincias tres, cepit urbes munitas qua- 
 draginta. Praefectus et ^Ediles poni cc. anno Domini MDCLXXII. 
 The sculptures are by Michel Anguier. This monument, which 
 cost the City of Paris 500,000 fr., and is one of the finest 
 works of the age of Louis XIV., is famous for the sanguinary 
 contests which took place around it in July 1830, and the first 
 conflict which ushered in the insurrection of June 1848. 
 
 Turning westwards into the boulevard, we find the Bazaar 
 Bonne Nouvelle, a building for exhibitions and various per- 
 formances, and further on, the Gijmnase Dramatique (see 
 Theatres). Crossing the boulevard, we find at the corner of 
 the rue de la Luiie, the church of 
 Notre Dame de Bonne Nouvelle. — On this spot stood the 
 church of St. Barbara, erected in 1551, but destroyed during 
 the siege of Paris in the wars of the League, in 1593 ; it was 
 rebuilt in 1624. The tower of this second church is still 
 standing. The present church, rebuilt in 1825, has a Doric 
 pedimented front, and consists of a nave and two aisles sepa- 
 rated from it by arches resting upon Doric columns. The 
 choir is semicircular ; the works of art in this church are ; 
 1 . Chapel facing the left aisle ; the Assumption, and Christ 
 blessing little children, by Bourdon. 2d. St. Elizabeth of Hun- 
 gary praying ; 3d. The Virgin crushing the serpent ; her presen- 
 tation in the Temple. 4th. LadyChapel; ten frescos by Hesse, re- 
 presenting the Annunciation, the Visit to St. Elizabeth, king 
 David, St. John, St. Joachim, St. Anne, St. Elizabeth, St. Za- 
 chary, St. John the Baptist, and St. Joseph. 5th. St. Vincent 
 de Paule preaching. 6th. The Apotheosis of St. Peter of Alcan- 
 tara. Over the door of the sacristy is a picture of Queen 
 Henrietta and Anne of Austria receiving the cross from an 
 angel ; and as a counterpart to this, over a similar door in the 
 western aisle, is Queen Henrietta, and St. Francis de Sales, 
 holding Louis XIIL, still in his boyhood, by the hand, and 
 pointing to the church of St. Barbara. The other two 
 children by their side represent Elizabeth and Christine, sisters 
 to Louis XIIL These paintings are interesting as contemporary 
 compositions. In the chapels of the western aisle are Ste, 
 Genevieve, St. Peter in vinculis, St. Nicholas, and St. Louis 
 assisting the wounded. Over the principal entrance is an En- 
 tombment, and, in a recess facing the western aisle, Ste. Ge- 
 
238 SIXTH WALK. 
 
 nevieve relieving the besieged Parisians, by Schnetz. Around 
 the choir are five paintings ; the Holy FamUy, the Adoration 
 of the Shepherds, the Annunciation, the Adoration o' the Magi, 
 and the Flight to Egypt. The frieze, by Pujol, represents 
 the Lord adored by the tribes of Israel. 
 
 SIZTH 7/ALZ. 
 
 This walk, comprising the rest of the 1st and 2d arrondisse- 
 mcnts, may commence with 
 
 St. Germain l’Auxerrois, parish church of the Palace of 
 the Tuileries. — A church, founded on this spot by Childehert 
 in honour of St. Vincent, was sacked and destroyed by the Nor- 
 mans in 886. In 998, King Robert rebuilt it, dedicated it to 
 St. Germain I’Auxerrois, and added a monastery to it, which 
 was subsequently endowed with a chapter and a school. The 
 community possessed the privilege of independent jurisdiction 
 until 1744, when the chapter was iiniied to that of Notre 
 Dame. This parish, as it included the Louvre and the Tuile- 
 ries, was long considered the royal parish, and the church was 
 frequently the object of the munificence of the ciown. As 
 early as 1356, Etienne Marcel, Prevot des Marchanls, stirred 
 up his formidable insurrection within its precincts It was 
 from its belfry that the fatal signal was given and responded 
 to from the Palais (now de Justice) for the commencement of 
 the massacre on the eve of the Fete of St. Barthelemi, 23d 
 August, 157 2 ; the bells of this church tolled during the whole 
 of that dreadful night. From a house that stood near its 
 cloisters, a shot was fired at the Admiral de Coligny', a short 
 time previous to that memorable tragedy. During tie revolu- 
 tion of 17 89, the edifice escaped with little damage. On the 
 13th February, 1831, an attempt having been made to cele- 
 brate in it the anniversary of the death of the Duke ce Berri, a 
 tumult arose, and everything within the church was destroyed. 
 (See p, 318) The church was then shut up till 1817, when 
 it was repaired, and again restored to public worship. 
 
 Exterior. The church is cruciform, with an octagonal 
 termination ; ithas a tower built in 1 649. The princpal front, 
 to the west, consists of a well-sculptured porch, with five rich 
 Gothic arches in front, the three central ones being higher than 
 the lateral ones, and crowned with a foliated parapet; be gabled 
 roof of the nave, flanked by two irregular turrets, risjs behind. 
 This porch was erected in 1431-7, by Jean Gausel. at a cost 
 of 960 livres ; the church itself dates from the regency of the 
 
ST. GERMAIN L’aUXEUROIS. 239 
 
 Duke of Bedford. The interior of the porch, painted in 
 fresco by Mottez, represents the chief teachers of the Christian 
 religion. In the central ogive, Christ on the Cross, sur- 
 rounded with saints. In that to the left, Christ preaching ; 
 to tlie right, Christ on the Mount of Olives. Below are Mag- 
 dalen and the Virgin. The other ogives contain the four Evan- 
 gelists, the inspiration of the Apostles, and Jesus disputing in the 
 Temple. The key-stones of the ceiling display the Last Supper, 
 and the Adoration of the Shepherds in bas-relief. On the inner 
 surfaces of the pilasters of the porch are figures in fresco of 
 Adam before and after the Fall, Eve, Abel, Judas, Herodias, 
 Balthazar, and Absalom. All these figures, and the surrounding 
 decorations, are in the Byzantine style, being imitations, rather 
 too successful, of the decline of art. 
 
 Interior. The interior consists of a nave and choir with 
 double aisles. The aisle to the left is said to have been 
 built in 15G4; the gallery of the communion in 1G07, and 
 the high altar in 1G12. Beginning from the right-hand aisle, 
 the works of art contained in this church are as follows ; 1st. 
 Chapel; Altarpiece, by Amaury Duval — Christ crowning tiie 
 Virgin surrounded by angels. Next to it, the Assumption. 
 Between the groins of the vault, eight angels. Windows ; 
 containing fifteen saints on stained glass, and busts in the in- 
 tervals of the tracery. 2d. Right-hand transept : the Descent 
 from the Cross, a fresco by Guichard. Windows • the Assump 
 tion, Christ disputing in the Temple, 6cc. In the centre of the 
 transept there is a holy-water basin in marble, surmounted by 
 an exquisitely-sculptured group of three children supporting a 
 cross, executed by M. Jouffroy from the design of the donor, 
 Mme. de Lamartine. 3d. Choir : Altar-piece, by Truelle : St. 
 Ambrose, St. Justin, and St. Jerome. Opposite ; St. Germain 
 blessing St. Genevieve, by Pajou. Window : Christ between 
 Popes Leo and Gregory. 4th. Christ naming St. Peter his suc- 
 cessor, by Mottez. Window ; St. Peter. 5th. Window ; Christ 
 and his disciples. 6th. Door of the Sacristy, frescos by Mottez ; 
 below, St. Martin sharing his mantle with a poor man ; aljove, 
 Christ, seated beside the Virgin, returns him his mantle ; the 
 Virgin is in the act of rewarding the widow who had given 
 her mite to the poor. Over the door : St. Germain and Ste. 
 Genevieve seated on a throne, receiving from the Curate of the 
 parish and a sister of Charity the church of St. Germain I’Au- 
 xerrois restored to worship. Beneath is the motto, Divino 
 cultui restitutum A. 1). 1837. 7th. painted by Guichard, 
 with passages of St. Landry’s life, encloses the remains of 
 that saint, the founder of the Hotel Dieu, and has two monu- 
 ments in marble of the Chancellor Aligre and his brother. 8th. 
 
940 SIXTH WALK. 
 
 painted by Guichard, contains an Entombment in bas-relief, 
 and a fine marble statue representing an angel in prayer. 
 9th. painted by Couder ; the Birth and Death of the Saviour, 
 his Assumption, and the Glory of God. Window; chief pas- 
 sages of his Life. loth. Window: St. Vincent and St. Ger- 
 main. 11th. Scenes from the Life of Ste. Genevieve, by Gi- 
 goux. 13 th. St. Charles Borromeo visits the plague-stricken 
 at Milan; a Last Supper. Window ; St. Charles. 14th. St, 
 Vincent de Paule affording relief to foundlings, by Truelle. 
 15th. Chapel of St. Louis; an ancient monument of Tristan and 
 Charles de Rostaing with their statues in marble, in the act of 
 prayer; the Assumption of the Virgin, by Degeorges. 16th, 
 Ste.' Clotilde in the window. 17th. a remarkable ancient alto- 
 relievo in oak, representing the Passion in various compart-j 
 ments. Window ; a Mater Dolorosa in stained glass. Those) 
 of the following chapels represent severally St. Mary Mag-f 
 dalen, St. John the Baptist, and St. Michael, between figure^ 
 of angels. The window facing the left aisle represents Pop4 
 Gregory VII. , Charlemagne, and Pepin. Both the transepts|| 
 have specimens of old stained glass in excellent preservation, j 
 
 The ground in front of this church has been planted witlrl 
 chesnut trees, while an octagonal Gothic belfry, now possess-|; 
 ing a fine set of chimes, consisting of 40 bells, and playind 
 two different tunes daily, one at 2 p.m., and the other atj 
 8 p.m , is situated between the church and the j 
 
 Mairie DU !«>■ Arrondissement. — This Mairie replaces ones 
 located in the rue du Chevalier du Guet, now demolished. (1>. 
 The edifice, designed by M. Hittorff, is built in a mixed style,) 
 so as to form as much as possible a counterpart to the^ 
 church. Thus, it has a porch closely resembling that oi^ 
 the latter, except that the arches are round instead of 
 pointed. It has also a gable flanked with two turrets, and, 
 like that of the church, adorned with a large rose-window. 
 On its site there formerly stood an hotel called the Maison du 
 Doyenne, where Gabrielle d’Estrees, Duchess of Beaufort, and 
 Henry IV. ’s mistress, died, April 9th, 1599. 
 
 The Fontaine de la Croix du Trahoir, at the corner of 
 the rue de I’Arbre Sec, was erected under Francis L, and re- 
 built by Soufflot in 17 7 5. Between the windows is a nymph, 
 by Jean Goujon. Turning to the left we find 
 
 (i) This street was so called because it contained the hotel ot 
 the Chevalier du Guet, or cliief of the night palrol, instituted as 
 early as 595, under Clotaire II., and at that time composed 
 of citizens, wlio undertook llie duty by rotation, once in Ihree 
 weeks. The Chevalier du Guet was generally a dislinguished 
 nobleman. Before the house was a large common, adjoining 
 the old fortress of the Grand Chatelet. The rue des Fossds St. 
 

HALLE AU BLE 241 
 
 The OratoirE.— This spacious churchwas built iorthePrStres 
 de VOratoire, in 1 G2 1 , by Leniercier ; but that community hav- 
 ing been suppressedattherevolutionof 1789, it was used forpub- 
 [ lie meetings of the quarter, until 1802, when it was ceded to 
 the Protestants of the Confession of Geneva. The frontis Doric 
 i and Corinthian ; the interior Corinthian, with an arched 
 
 I ceiling. Service is performed here every Sunday in French. 
 
 I The eloquent M. Coquerel is one of the ministers ; the Rev. Mr.” 
 Spurgeon preached here in Feb. I860 to a large audience, 
 i Nearly opposite, at 130, rue St. Ilonore, there is a branch- 
 office of the Messageries Imgerialts, communicating with the 
 rue de Grenelle near the Passage Vero-Dodat, one of the 
 neatest in Paris. 
 
 The rue Mercier leads to the 
 
 Halle au BlE, a vast circular building, where the whole- 
 sale dealing in all sorts of grain and flour is carried on. In 
 the beginning of the 13th century the Hotel de Nesle was 
 erected here by King .lean, who in 1232 made a present 
 of it to Louis IX., who in his turn ceded it to his mother. 
 Queen Blanche. In 1327 it became the property of Jean 
 de Luxembourg, king of Bohemia, and was called Hdtel 
 de BoMme. In 1388 it belonged to Louis of Orleans, who, on 
 becoming king as Louis XII., converted it into a convent for 
 the Filles Penitentes. These were dispossessed of it by a 
 Bull from the Pope, to make way for a palace for Catherine de 
 Medicis, named the Hdtel de la Reine. At her death it was 
 sold to Charles de Bourbon, son of the Prince de Conde, and 
 
 Germain I’Anxerrois was built upon the site entrenched by 
 the Normans when they besieged Paris in 885 . It was Jiere Ad- 
 miral Col igny was murdered on St. Bartholomew’s Day 1572. 
 The Hdtel Montbazon, which stood at the northern corner ’of the 
 rue du Route and rue de Rivoli, then rue de Bdthizy, was in after- 
 limes inhabited by the beautiful Duchess de Montbazon, Avho was 
 loved so tenderly by the Abbe de Rancd, whom she admitted at all 
 times to her apartment by a secret staircase. The abbd haviin' 
 been absent on a journey of some weeks, returning to Paris” 
 hastened at once to the residence of the Duchess. He mounted 
 the staircase, opened with a private key the doors that lead to 
 her apartment, and, rushing into her salon, found— her head 
 placed in a dish on the table, and several surgeons busily en- 
 gaged in embalming her body. The shocking spectacle had 
 such an etfect upon him that he shut himself up for the 
 rest of his days in the convent of La Trappe. The same house 
 was inhabited, in 1792 , by the Marquis de Hurugues, the club- 
 hist and companion of Tlniroigne de M^ricourt. The Hole' de 
 Ponthieu (now demolished) in the rue des Fosses St. Germain 
 was the birth place (in 1740) of Sophie Arnouhl, the witty acl 
 tress; and in 1 747 the painter Vanloo inhabited the same rooms. 
 
 16 
 
242 SIXTH WALK. 
 
 called the H6lel de Soissons, destroyed in 1748. The 
 present ifaiie was built by Le Camus de Mesieres in 17 67. 
 It is 126 feet in diameter, and its remarkable hemispherical 
 roof constructed bv Brunet, and resting on concentric circles 
 of iron, covered with copper, has a round skylight 3 1 feet in 
 diameter. An arcade of twenty-five arches passes round the 
 inner area ; behind this arcade, under the double -vaulted roofs 
 supporting’ spacious galleries overhead, are piled the sacks 
 of Hour ; the centre contains sacks of grain. There are 
 here forty offices of Hour and meal factors. Tlic whole 
 can hold 30,000 sacks, but the average quantity is much 
 less. Two curious double staircases lead to the granaries 
 above, which are worth visiting to obtain a just idea 
 of the vastiicss of the place. The visitor, by placing himself 
 immediately under the centre of the skylight over the middle 
 area, and speaking loudly, will find a remarkable echo in the 
 building. 
 
 On the southern side of the exterior there is a Doric 
 column erected in 1572, by the famous Jean Bullant, for Ca- 
 therine deMedicis, which is tiieonly relic of the Hotel de Sois- 
 sons. It is 95 feet in heigh I, and was built for astrological 
 purposes; it contains a winding staircase, the lower part of 
 which leads to a small reservoir, belonging to the Fontaine de 
 la Croix duTrahoir; (see p. 240.) the upper part is accessible by 
 the Halle au Ble, but is uninteresting. An ingenious semi- 
 circular sun-dial, by Pingre, a canon of Ste. Genevieve, is 
 placed on its shaft, and from the pedestal a fountain pours 
 forth its waters. 
 
 Turning by the Rue des Vicillcs Etuves into the Rue St. 
 Honore, where the corner-house to our right, according to 
 the registers of St. Eustache, was Moliere’s birthplace, we see 
 a large portion of the southern side in a state of transforma- 
 tion.'all the streets leading to the Seine having been consider- 
 ably widened. Among the houses that have disappeared to 
 make room for the Rue Tirechappe there was one of liistorical 
 interest : Henry IV. was assassinated in front of it by 
 Ravaillac. The street being exceedingly narrow at that spot, 
 the murderer was enabled to reach the Royal person by 
 mounting on a spur-stone against the wall. The bust of the 
 monarch, and a black marble slab whirh bore tlie following 
 inscription ; 
 
 Ilenriri Magiii recrcat pricsenlia cives 
 
 Qiios illi ccterno foedere junxit amor. 
 
 which adorned the front of the house, are now preserved ui 
 the Municipal Museum (sec p. 273). 
 
LES HALLES. 
 
 243 
 
 No. 3, Rue de la Tonnellerie, is a house erected on the site 
 of one in which Regnard was horn. 
 
 Continuing our walk along the Rue St. Honore, we arrive 
 at an elegant square, laid out as a public garden, and com- 
 prising a space of 2,058 square metres, being part of .the site 
 of the Marc, he des Innocents, once the cemetery of the church 
 of that name. The accumulation of human remains durino- 8 or 
 9 centuries in this ground ha I become so serious an evif that 
 in 17 86, they were all transferred to the Catacombs, and the 
 soil being entirely renewed, a market was erected, which’ has 
 now been removed. In the centre of the garden we perceive 
 the ^ 
 
 Fontaine des Innocents.— This beautiful fountain con- 
 structed by Pierre Lescot in 1551, at the corner of the rue 
 aux Fers, and sculptured by the celebrated Jean Goujon who 
 was shot during the massacre of St. Bartholomew, while work- 
 ing at one of the figures, was removed to its present situation 
 m 17 86. It originally consisted of only three sides ; the fourth 
 or northern side, was added by Pajou at the time of its removal’ 
 Four arches, the piers of which are faced with Corinthian 
 pilasters resting on pedestals, and crowned with a sculptured 
 frieze and attic, surmounted on each side by a pediment sup- 
 port a small dome ; in the midst stands a vase, out of which the 
 water falls successively into six ell ptical basins arranged 
 like stairs, and attached to each of the four sides of the base- 
 ment, which stands like an islet in the centre of a lar^^e cir- 
 cular basin on a level with the ground. The height is 42 feet 
 The spaces between the pilasters are adorned with fmures of 
 dancing nymplis surmounted by the inscription— Fontium 
 N¥.^?piiis.— It IS a valuable monument of the Renaissance 
 des Arts. 
 
 At the western end of this place stands part of a lon<r 
 building known by the name of Halle aux Draps the roo*f 
 of which was destroyed by fire in 1855. It is now used for 
 the sale of fruit by auction, hut will soon be completelv 
 pulled down. Close to this are the ^ ^ 
 
 New Central Halles, which have caused the din^v sheds 
 of the Marche dc3 Innocents to disappear, and let the splendid 
 wortt 01 Pierre Lescot be seen in all its glory. The ten na- 
 A'ilions erected here (1), have up to the present time cost 
 25,073,107 fr. ; the loss on the operation with regard to Hie 
 previous demolitions is calculated at 08 per cent, of the cost 
 Each pavilion is 120 feet by loo. Garden produce, fish,’ 
 
 (t) One of the new pavilions is now used for Ihe !.-i 1 p n’r 
 
 poulfo^ transferred liilUer from the Qiiai des Augustins Ue 
 
244 SIXTH WAtXr 
 
 butter cheese, fowls, game, and butcher’s meat, afe now sold 
 here ’ The last pavilions to tlie west border on the streets 
 encircling the Halle au Ble, the axis of which exactly coincides 
 with that of the central street which bisects the Halles. The 
 ten existing pavilions are remarkable for lightness of design 
 and good ventilation ; their roofs rest tpon ;t00 cast iron co- 
 lumns ten metres in height, and connected by dwarf-brick 
 walls.' The rest of the space up to the arches is closed with 
 blinds of ground-glass plates encased at their extremities in 
 India rubber, to aUow for dilatation. The flooring is partly 
 stone flagging and partly asphalt; the roofing is of zmc, 
 with large skylights over the carriage ways. The pavilions 
 for greens, butter, &c., are fitted up with neat stalls; that 
 for Fish with marble slabs on cast-iron supports, with abun- 
 dance of water at command. There are eight electric clocks 
 over the principal arches, the apparatus lieing located in the 
 overseer’s lodge of the south-eastern pavilion. The cellars un-- 
 der-^round are worth seeing, and may be visited for a small 
 fee bv applving at the overseer’s lodge of the pavilion nearest 
 the c4rch of St. Eustache. The vaulting is of brick resting on 
 iron groins supported by 430 cast-iron pillars forming a 
 curious perspective. Light is admitted through hulls eyes; 
 there are wired cages for live poultr jr ; a stone tank divided 
 into compartments by wired partitions, and provided with a 
 fountain for the convenience of the fishmongers, and other 
 necessary contrivances for stowing away provisions and keeping 
 them fr4h. Three parallel lines of tramways are to extend 
 from these cellars to a tunnel under tae Boulevard de Sebas- 
 topol which communicates with theChemin de Fer de Ceinture. 
 B V this means provisions will be conveyed to the market m carts 
 drawn by horses, and by the same conveyance the rubbish 
 and sweepings of the markets are carted away, being m 
 
 through grated trapdoors. Architects, MM. Baltard & Callet. ( 1 ) 
 
 The pavilions are surrounded by a broad foot-pavement 
 planted with trees. Fish is sold here wholesale f‘om 3 to 9 m 
 summer, and from 4 to 9 in winter ; other articles fiom 6 to 
 
 fi'l The total cost of these extensive -vorks is calculated at 12 
 millions of francs, over and above me cost of 249 houses pulled 
 down to make room for them, which amounted to 2 ,,ooo,oootr. 
 in the Pvilions already built there have been employed 
 26 660 cubic metres of concrete, 2,7o4 tins of iron and cast non 
 3 200 000 bricks, and 32,000 square metres of zinc on the i oof. 
 When the othei- pavilion shall be terminated, the total sur- 
 face of the halles, eomprisin;; also the covered streets, vi be 
 S8 000 square metres ; the pavilions alone occupy 40 ,jO 9. The 
 dealers pay i fr. per day to the city for fixed stalls, and 30 c. for 
 temporary places. 
 
ST. EDSTACHE. 245 
 
 1 1 summer and from 7 to 1 1 in winter. The Marche des Her- 
 boristes, for the sale of fresh medicinal herbs, is held on Wed- 
 nesdays and Saturdays. There is also the Marche au Pain, 
 daily supplied by bakers from the environs, who are allowed 
 to sell their bread here, on condition of its being cheaper than 
 the bread made and sold by the bakers of Paris. (1) This they 
 are enabled to do by the difference of the rent and general ex- 
 penses in the outskirts as compared with that within thewalls. (2) 
 
 At the north-west corner of these markets we perceive the 
 lower end of the new Rue de Turbigo, and opposite the 
 church of 
 
 St. Eustache. — T his church, begun in 1532, stands on the 
 site of a temple of Cybele. The facade, commenced by Mansard 
 de Jouyin 17 54, being in the Italian style, harmonises very 
 badly with the interior, which is Gothic. Of the two square 
 towers designed for it, only one has been built in the Corin- 
 thian style. A new front, by MM. Baltard and Callet, is now 
 in contemplation for this church, which is also to be entirely 
 insulated. 
 
 Interior. The church is cruciform, and has a nave and 
 choir, with double aisles. The length is 3 1 8 feet ; breadth at 
 the transepts 132 feet; height 90 feet. A triforium gal- 
 lery with paired arches runs below the large clerestory win- 
 dows of the nave, many of which are decorated with stained 
 glass. The keystones are all beautifully sculptured. Rose 
 windows of elaborate tracery adorn the transepts ; and all the 
 fronts of the chapels have now been decorated in the Byzantine 
 style. In the 1st chapel, to the right on entering, is an inscription 
 on marble stating that the church was consecrated in 1637 (3). 
 The fine organ over the principal entrance, by Ducroquet, has 
 
 (1) Bread is sold in Paris by weight. 
 
 ( 2 ) The peasants and gardeners in the neighhourhood of Paris 
 arrive at the markets from midnight to 2 a.m., with their fruits 
 and vegetables, and from 4 till 8 wholesale dealing is curried 
 on. After that hour the retail dealers commence Iheir traffic. 
 
 (3) The following paintings in fresco adorn the chapels; 4 lh 
 chapel : The Dream of Joseph, by Gourlier ; 5lh. in the ogives, 
 the Father commiserating the Sorrows of the Son, and the Spot- 
 less Lamb ; on the wall below, the Son commiserating the Sor- 
 rows of Mankind, all by Magimel ; right transept; St. John 
 the Evangelist, St. Mark, the Entombment and Resurrection, 
 Temperance and Justice in medallions, all by Signol ; Gth. cliapel, 
 the Adoration of the Heart of Jesus, and aJ/aterPolorosa, by Lari- 
 vi^re; 7 lh, the Inspiration of St. Agnes, and her Martyrdom, by 
 Vauchelet; 8th. St. Anne devotingher daughter to the service of 
 God, and her death, hy Lazerg^s ; gth. some old frescoes, lately 
 Vevived, representing the Fall of the Angels, and St. Genevieve 
 interceding for the City of Paris ; loth. the Life and Apotheosis 
 
246 SIXTH WALK. 
 
 cost 70,000 fr. The high altar is of white marble, beautifully- 
 sculptured. An elaborately open-worked parapet of marble 
 surrounds it, and connects some of the piers of the choir. 
 Many distinguished persons were buried here ; among them 
 Voiture, AAugelas, Lafosse, llomberg, Marechal de la Feuil- 
 lade. Admiral de Toiirville, Colliert, and Charles David, the 
 architect of the church, who died in 1050 aged 98. On higli 
 festivals St. Eustache is thronged by amateurs of church music. 
 
 Tlie Rues Coquilliere and Jean Jacques Rousseau lead to the 
 Hotel des Posies (General Post Office), rue Jean Jac- 
 ques Rousseau, (1) — built by the Duke d’Epernon, and 
 
 of St. Andrew, by Piis ; iilh. (an issue to the Halles) illustra- 
 tions of the virtue of Charity, by Lehmann ; i2th. (with a stair- 
 case leading to the chapel of the catechists) Christ disputing in 
 tlie Temple, and blessing little children; flanking the doors, 
 St. Catherine and St. Ursula; in the ogives, Religion and Cha- 
 rity; a medallion with the Alrgin, angels, &c. all by Signol ; 
 13 th. the Lady Chanel, inaugurated Aug. is, 1858 ; it is one of 
 the most splendid in Paris; the walls, columns, and arches being 
 all decorated in the Byzantine style. The three windows are 
 adorned \sith the figures of David, St. John the Evangelist, St. 
 Paul, St. Anne, St. Elizabeth, St. Zachary, St. John the Baptist, 
 St. Joseph, etc., in stained glass. Theihree magniticent frescoes 
 below, viz., the Virgin and Christ adored by angels; Prayer in 
 Adver.sily; and Happiness after Death, are by Couture; i4lh. 
 passages in the life of St. Louis Gonzaga, by Bezard. The centre 
 ot this chapel is occupied by a beautiful monument to Colbert. 
 This celebrated statesman is represented kneeling on a sarco- 
 phagus of black marble resting upon two plinths of the same 
 material, and flanked by two marble statues representing Fide- 
 lity and Abundance; isth. Miracles and Death of St. Peter the 
 Exorcist, hy Delorme ; iGth. old frescoes revived, representing : 
 the Feast of Cana, Christ preaching, the Penitent Magdalen, the 
 Angel announcing the Resurrection; i 7 th. old frescoes revived : 
 the Virgin crushing the Serpent; her Presentation at the Tem- 
 ple, and St. John writing the Apocalypse; behind him stands 
 the Dragon with seven heads (Rev. xii.); I 8 th. passages in the 
 life of St. Genevieve, hy Pichon ; 1 9th. passages in the lifeofSt. 
 Louis of France, his death, and apotheosis; left transept: Sts. 
 Alatthew and Luke ; Christ hearing the Cross, and a Crucifixion ; 
 Divine Power and Prudence in medallions, all by Signol. 
 Aficr the transept, 2ist: passages from the life of St. Eustace, 
 by Le Henalf; 22d. Christ at Emmaus ; the Apotheosis of St. Mo- 
 nica ; and an oil painting, by Desc-amps ; St. Monica presenting 
 St. Augustin to be ortlained a priest ; 23 d : the Presentation of 
 the Virgin, the Flight into Egypt, the Carrying of the Cross, and 
 the Crucifixion, by Riesener; 24 th, Christ delivering the keys 
 to Peter; Moses receiving the Tables; Christ healing the Sick, 
 and his Baptism, by Marquis ; 25 th, Adam and Eve driven from 
 Paradise; their labour; the Birth and Crucifixion of Jesus. 
 
 ( 1 ) This street was originally called rue Platrifirc, but in 179 ( 
 
247 
 
 ST. LEU ET ST. GILLES. 
 
 considerably increased by Bartbelemi d’llervat, coraptroller- 
 general of the finances, subsequently bore the name of d’Ar- 
 menonvillc, till purchased by the government, in 17 57, for tlic 
 General Post Office. The Iniildings have a handsome front 
 in the rue Coq Heron. (I'or postage, 5cc., see p. /). 
 
 Turning to the left into the rue Montmartre, we find the 
 Passage du Saumon, famous for an insurrectionary fray in 
 1832. It leads to the rue Montorgueil, which meets the 
 Hue i)E TuimiGO opposite the church of St. Eustache. This 
 new street, which reaches to the Boulevard du Temple (see 
 p. 255, here encroaches upon ground of historical interest. 
 The square feudal tower we sec to our left, was built by Jean 
 Sans Peur, after the murder of his cousin the Duke of Orleans. 
 This tower was an appendage of the Hotel de Bourgogne, the 
 most sumptuous mansion of Paris under Charles VI., and 
 where at a later period, the Gon/reres de la Passioji (see p. 
 459) used to give dramatic representations. 
 
 Entering the rue St. Denis (1), we see to our right, at No. 
 
 1 8 2 , the church of 
 
 Sr. Leu et St. Gilles. — On this spot a chapel was erected 
 in 1230, which, in 1C17, became parochial. It was repaired 
 in 1320, and in 1011, the choir was rebuilt. Georges Ca- 
 doudai, the conspirator under the Consulate, when pursued, 
 concealed himself in it for several days. This church is very 
 i-ich in relics ; it was the only one in which the priests ven- 
 tured to perform mass for the repose of the soul of the Pi'incesse 
 de Lamballe, on the day of her horrible murder. A few days 
 after it was put up to auction as national property, and bought 
 for a trifling sum by two Jews, who converted it into a 
 warehouse for saltpetre. In 1802, when the churches were re- 
 
 the Municipal Body gave it the name ot J. J. Rousseau, vho 
 occupied a small apartment on the fourth story at No. lo. Its 
 primitive name was restored to it in 1816 , but it has been 
 chatiged again to that of .1. .1. Rousseau since isso. 
 
 (i) Tliis street is one of the most ancient of Paris. According 
 to an old legend, St. Denis marked it out willi his footsteps while 
 walking with his head under his arm lo the place where he wished 
 to he huried. In ii 97 , it reached as far as the Rue Mauconseil, 
 and in 1 594 it ended at the ramparts huilt hy Francis I., now the 
 boulevards. The Kings of France used to enter Paris on state- 
 occasions hy the Rue St. Denis, which '.vas long the chief street 
 of Paris. Tlie bourgeoisie of this street has always taken a great 
 part in the political trouhlcs of Hie capital, from the accession of 
 Henry IV. down to the insurrection of June. At the corner ot 
 the line des Precheiirs there is a remnant of mediseval art, re- 
 presenting tlie genealogy of Jesus Christ, in the shape of a tree 
 hearing the 1 2 Kings of Juda and the Virgin, 
 
248 
 
 SIXTH WALK. 
 
 opened for the Catholic religion, they let it for 3000 fr. a-year, 
 hut subsequently increased the rent to 10,000 fr., which con- 
 tinued till 1813, when the City repurchased it for 2 o 9,312 fr. 
 The front is gabled, and flanked by two square spired towers! 
 The interior consists of a nave and choir with aisles. Beneath 
 the high altar there is a Doric chapel constructed by the 
 Knights Of the Holy Sepulchre. In the aisle to the left 
 on entering there is the Chapel of the Virgin ; its walls 
 are covered with numerous slabs of white marble placed 
 there as ex-voto’s, or votive inscriptions, by grateful de- 
 votees. The paintings on the walls are : Christ healing the 
 Blind, by Colson ; an Annunciation, by Quantin ; a Visitation, 
 by Lecomte; the Adultress, by Delaval, and a fine Madonna 
 and Infant of tbe Italian school. At the door of the sacristy is 
 a portrait of St. Francis do Sales, taken on his death-bed, by 
 Philippe de Champagne; and above, Christ on the Mount of 
 Olives. Next this is St. Charles Borromeo praying, by Dela- 
 val ; and below, a very ancient bas-relief, in wood, represent- 
 ing, in 3 compartments, the Kiss of Judas, the Flagellation, and 
 the Lord’s Supper. In the right aisle we find : St. Leu healing 
 an Infant, by Cpyet; a Ste. Genevieve, and an Adoration of the 
 Shepherds. St. Leu being considered a bealer of the sick, the 
 kings of France, on their accession, used to visit this church 
 during nine days, to solicit health. A spacious baptismal and 
 two other chapels have been added in the right aisle. 
 
 Proceeding northward, we find at No. 277, the Bains St. 
 Sauveur, and further on, the 
 
 Entkepot General des Graces, 313, rue St. Denis.— This 
 is a large ]ilate-glass warehouse, which has replaced a royal 
 manufactory, suppressed in 1830. It belongs to two 
 companies, that of Monterme, and of Quirin and Cirey. (l) 
 The glass is cast at St. Gobain and at Cirey, near La Fh’e, and 
 polished at Chauny. It is then brought to Paris to be silvered 
 and sold. A glass 20 inches by 12 may be obtained for 
 about 8fr., while the largest may cost 10,000 fr. Visitors 
 may see the operation of silvering, &c., every day from 9 to 12 , 
 on applying to the porter, to whom asmall fee should be given. 
 
 (1) The art of nianufacturing mirrors was eslablished in 
 France in 1634, and, in 1666, Colbert created a royal manufac- 
 tory in the rue de Reuilly, Previous to that period, Ihe finest 
 mirrors came from Venice. Tlie glass employed in forming mir- 
 rors was blovm until 1688 , when a Frenchman, named Thevart, 
 discovered the art of casing it, which process was carried to a 
 high degree of perfection in i688, hy M. Lucas de Nichon ; 
 the art ol polishing was invented by Rivifere Dufresn4, Under 
 Louis XVI. the largest glass made was 48 inches square. What 
 a contrast with those of our days ! 
 
PORTE ST. MARTIN. 249 
 
 Tlie rue du Caire higher up leads westward to the Place and 
 Passage du Caire; and the rue des Forges, to the left, 
 to the spot once known as the Cour des Miracles, the de- 
 scription of which will not be readily forgotten by the 
 readers of Victor Hugo. Even up to the reign of Louis XIV. 
 it was the squalid receptacle of the most abandoned and de- 
 praved of Paris. The inmates had a slang of their own called 
 argot, still used by thieves, and were organized in bands. In 
 1667 this nuisance was partially suppressed. The site is now 
 a quiet commercial court, to which a glazed passage gives 
 access. Some tradition is generally attached to the singular 
 names the older streets of this quarter bear (l). 
 
 SETZHTH WALZ. 
 
 This comprises the rest of the 10th, and part of the 4 th 
 arrondissement. We may commence it with the 
 
 Porte St. Martin. — This triumphal arch was built in 
 1674, by Bullet, a pupil of BlondeFs. It is f4 feet 
 wide, by an elevation of 54 feet, including the attic, the 
 height of which is 1 1 feet. It is pierced by three arches ; 
 that in the centre is 15 feet wide by 30 in elevation; 
 the lateral arches are 8 in breadth by 1 6 in height. The 
 fronts display vermiculated rustics, and the spandrils are 
 adorned with bas-reliefs. Those towards the city represent the 
 taking of Besancon, and the defeat of the Triple Alliance, 
 those towards the faubourg the taking of Limbourg, and the 
 defeat of the Germans by Louis XIV. This prince is oddly re- 
 presented in the character of Hercules, with a large wig on, and 
 leaning on a club. Between the consoles of the entablature are 
 military designs; in the centre is the sun, which Louis XIV. 
 took for his emblem. On the southernattic is the inscription : 
 Ludovico Magno Vesontione Sequanisque bis captis, ct fractis 
 Gennanoruiii, Hispanorum, Balavorumque exercilibus Praef. et 
 TFdiles P. C. C. R. S. H. MDCLXXIV. 
 
 The northern one has the following; 
 
 Ludovico Magno, quod Limburgo capto impotenles hostium 
 minas ubique repressit. Praef. et Aldiles P. C. C. ann. R. S. II. 
 MDCLXXV. 
 
 Many a bloody encounter took place here in June, 1848. 
 
 A few steps to the east of this, is the Theatre de la Porte St. 
 Martin (see Theatres.) 
 
 Proceeding westwards, we find to our right the 
 
 (Ij See History of Paris, 3 vols. Published by Galignani. 
 
SEVENTH WALK. 
 
 250 
 
 Bollevakd de Strasbourg, opened in 18 53. Several vast 
 and brilliant though not select coffee-houses, liave sprung up 
 here, the most conspicuous of which is the Eldorado, (see p. 
 47 4.) Higher up, to our right, is the church of 
 
 St. Laurent, — built in 1429, and nearly rebuilt in 1595. 
 Its front, a mixture of the Doric and Ionic, being out of keeping 
 with the rest of the building, which is Gothic, is now in course 
 of reconstruction, whereby the church, while it acquires ad- 
 ditional length, also contributes to the symmetry of the open 
 space before it. In consequence of the works in progress 
 same of the pictures herein mentioned have been provisionally 
 removed. A tower with a small pointed turret will be noticed 
 on the northern side. The interior is cruciform, with double 
 aisles and a circular choir, behind which is an elliptical Lady 
 Chapel. The key-stones of the ribs of the nave and transepts 
 are well-sculptured pendant masses of stone. The high altar, 
 by Lepautre, is profusely sculptured and decorated with 
 Corinthian columns of marble. The works of art in this 
 church are, beginning from the left on entering : ist Chapel, St. 
 Vincent de Paule ; 2d. Byzantine altar-piece : the Adoration of 
 the Heart of Jesus ; above, Jesus, Mary, and Joseph ; opposite, 
 Christ commanding the Apostles to spread his v.'ord — all byBre- 
 mond. The ceiling represents the four Evangelists, and busts 
 of angels in medallions. On one of the gilt key-stones is the 
 figure of St. Lawrence. Transept ; St. Lawrence led to martyr- 
 dom, by Trezel. 3d. St. Vincent de Paule blessing the con- 
 gregation fj'om the altar. 4th. The Lady Chapel is adorned 
 with coupled Ionic pilasters ; its cupola, painted in fresco, re- 
 presents the Martyrdom and Apotheosis of St. Lawrence. 
 Windows of the choir, eight sacred subjects representing the 
 Martyrdom of Ste. Apolline, that of St. Lawrence, &,c. The 
 first ogive to the left represents the four evangelists and their 
 emblems, in fresco, by Galimard. Bigbt-hand aisle ; 5th. The 
 Apotheosis of Ste. Genevieve, by Lancrenon. Transept; St. 
 Lawrence seized by the Guards, by Verdier. Clh. The Pre- 
 sentation in the Temple. 7th. St. Charles Borromeo relieving 
 the sick, by Laure, and Christ teaching. 8th. The Baptismal 
 Chapel ; Christ demanding Baptism, on canvass, by Bremond. 
 Mme. Le Gras, who, with St. Vincent de Paule, founded the 
 order of the Sisters of Charity, was buried here. 
 
 Facing the Boulevard de Strasbourg, stands the 
 
 Strasbourg Railway Terminus. — This splendid edifice 
 consists of four elegant pavilions, of two stories besides the 
 ground-floor, connected by arcades, thus forming, indepen- 
 dently of the spacious court in front, an immense rectangle, 
 with a fa(jade of 105 feet, and a length of 309. A supplemen- 
 
nOPlTAL ST., LOUIS. 251 
 
 tary body, projecting at the back, makes tlie total length of the 
 building 410 feet. The portico connecting the front pavilions 
 is surmounted by a balustrade, behind wliich rises a magni- 
 ficent gabled arch, surmounted by a statue of Strasbourg, 
 and concealing the vaulted iron roof, which covers the arrival 
 and departure sheds, measuring 231 feet in breadth by 390 
 in length. A spacious propylseum, 60 feet by 18, gives access 
 to the sheds. The total height of the building to the summit 
 of the gable is 48 feet, and the total surface occupied by the 
 buildings is 538,000 square feet ; of which the covered sheds 
 alone take 98,190. The portico in front has 9 arches, on the 
 spandrils of which are sculptured the arms of the principal 
 towns which the line touches. The general appearance of 
 the building is strikingly beautiful (see p. 3). 
 
 By the rue de Strasbourg we enter the rue du Faubourg St. 
 Martin, whose wide and commodious foot pavements are 
 skirted with cast-iron fountains, representing tritons and dol- 
 phins. At No. 8. rue des Recollets, there is the new military 
 Hdpital St. Martin, and crossing the canal, we find the 
 
 Hopital St. Louis, rue Bichat, No. 40. — An alms-house 
 or hospital existed hei'e from very remote times, which was en- 
 larged by St. Louis The present building, founded by Henry IV. 
 in 1602 , was erectedafter theplansof the architect Villefaux. It 
 is a fine specimen of the architecture of that time, occupying a 
 quadrangle of 360 yards by 240, with 8 lofty pavilions in the 
 centre and angles. A spacious yard and gardens, with all the 
 requisite offices, enclosed by a wall and fosse, surround the 
 central edifice. Opposite the entrance in the first court is a 
 statue of Monthyon. The wards are 144 feet in length by 24 
 in breadth, and are 1 1 feet high on the ground floor, and from 
 20 to 23 on the upper. Adjoining is a small Gothic chapel, 
 the first stone of which was laid by Henry IV. ; the front is 
 gabled, with niches displaying the statues of St. Louis and 
 St. Roch. Opposite is a gas apparatus for lighting the es- 
 tablishment, remarkable for being the first established in Paris. 
 Next is a vast wash-house, and a house for the Dames de St. 
 Augustin, 2 5 in number, who attend upon the sick. The hos- 
 - pital, which is now receiving considerable improvements, is 
 said to have derived its name from having been originally 
 devoted to persons infected with the plague, of which St. Louis 
 died at Tunis, in 1270. Strangers are admitted on Thursdays 
 and Sundays from 12 to 2 (see p. 140). 
 
 In the opposite street we find the 
 
 Entrepot des Chargements, where goods introduced into 
 Paris without paying the octroi duty are deposited by the 
 owners, till the duty is paid. In the rue Aliberl are the 
 
SEVENTH WALK. 
 
 252 
 
 Entreprise res Pompes FuNfeBRES (see p. 39n.), and the 
 Entrepot des Sees. — About 9,000,000 lb. of salt issue 
 hence for the annual consumption of Paris. Opposite, on the 
 southern bank of the canal, are the Docks Napoleon and the 
 Entrepot de la Compagnie des Douanes, Place des Ma- 
 rais. — This establishment, erected in 1834, by a joint-stock 
 company, for the reception of goods in bond, consists of a 
 spacious area bordering the Canal St. Martin, in which, be- 
 sides sheds, there are two warehouses 250 feet in length, with 
 a covered court between, for stowage. They are four 
 stories high, and built of stone, with brick arches. Su- 
 gar, coffee, foreign wines, drugs, wool, cotton. Sec., are 
 the principal goods stored here ; they pay a moderate charge 
 for warehouse-room, and if not removed within three years are 
 sold to defray the expenses, the surplus being remitted to the 
 owners. Adjoinmg are the clerks’ offices. Sec. For admission, 
 apply at the bureau, holidays excepted, from 9 to 4. The 
 Douane de Paris is in the rue de la Douane, close by. A 
 double doorway leads into an arcaded court, with a glazed 
 roof, and medallions on which are inscribed the names of 
 the principal commercial cities throughout the world. Visitors 
 are admitted daily from 12 to 4. 
 
 At No. 18, rue de la Douane, is the Conseil des Prud’hommes 
 (see p. 68). Adjoining it, is the Wauxhall, a public ball-room 
 (see p. 478), and the Entrepot des Glaces de Montlucon. 
 
 At No. 36, in the rue des Marais, is 
 St. Martin, chapel-of-ease to St. Laurent, built in the By- 
 zantine style. The interior consists of a nave and two aisles, 
 without chapels. In the left-hand aisle are Ste. Genevieve en- 
 couraging the besieged, by Grenier ; St. Ireneus, bishop of 
 Lyons, receiving the slaves ransomed by his exertions, by 
 Reverchon ; St. Lawrence, by Cuny. In the opposite aisle ; 
 St. Genevieve averting a storm by prayer, by Grenier ; St. 
 Peter, by Maurin; tlie Baptism of Clirist, by Cuny. 
 
 At No. 43 we find a large covered market. The rue de 
 Lancry leads to the Boulevard St. Martin, where a flower- 
 market is held on Mondays and Thursdays. To the right 
 stands the Theatre de TAmbigu, (see p. 468), and a feAV steps 
 to the left, the 
 
 Chateau d’Eau, an elegant fountain, designed by Girard, 
 and executed in 1 8 1 1 . It consists of four concentric basins, 
 receiving water from two elevated paterae which occupy the 
 centre, and from 8 lions of cast iron. This fountain cost 
 100,000 tr. Behind it stands the new and spacious edifice 
 called the 
 
 Caserne du Prince Eugene, occupying a space of 9,630 
 
THE: TEMPLE. 253 
 
 S(juare metres, with a front of 114 metres. It has a central 
 and two lateral pavilions, and extends into the Faubourg du 
 Temple and rue de la Douane. It is built for 3,500 men. 
 
 The immense building on a line with it to the right, is a 
 private concern called Les Magasins Reunis. 
 
 East of this lies the Boulevard da Temple, the northern side 
 of which was but lately occupied by several theatres, on the 
 spot where it meets the Boulevard du Prince Eugene. On 
 the opposite side there are various coffee-houses, a cafe 
 chantant (see p. 474), a new bazar, and the Theatre Dejazet. 
 Several severe conflicts took place in June, 1848, in the 
 Faubourg beyond the Boulevards, which is otherwise uninte- 
 resting. At No. 42 stands a large house, which has replaced 
 a mean and small one, from an upper window of which 
 Fieschi discharged his Infernal Machine, on the 28th of July, 
 1835, with a design of taking the life of Louis Philippe, while 
 passing along the Ijoulevards at the head of his staff, and by 
 which Marshal Mortier, Colonel Rieussec, and several other 
 persons, were killed, as well as a number wounded. 
 
 By the rue Chariot and rue Forez, we reach the 
 
 Mabche du Vieux Linge, a market for old clothes and 
 stuffs, shoes, and tools ; and covering an area of 10,920 square 
 metres, valued at 3,500,000 fr. It has now been recon- 
 structed with iron pavilions, on the plan of the new Halles, 
 containing 2,400 places, of 4 square metres each, for the 
 dealers. It is 215 metres long by 60 in breadth. The con- 
 tractor receives the rents on paying 200,000 fr. a year to 
 the city for 50 years, after which the market will become 
 the property of the latter. One of the pavilions is called 
 Carre de la Rotonde, from a round building which stood on 
 its site. The new stalls set up for the dealers are so elegant, 
 and the articles offered for sale so cleverly “ renovated,” that 
 the visitor will scarcely believe himself to be in an old clothes 
 market. It is well worth seeing. 
 
 Adjoining the market there is an elegant square, laid out 
 as a garden, and 7,525 square metres in surface. Here stood 
 the last remnant of 
 
 The Temple (1) vvhich formerly contained alavge square tower 
 flanked with four turrets, built in 1222. In that tower Louis 
 
 (1) The order of Templars, founded aUerusalem in the iilh 
 century, during the Crusades, consisted at first only of six rnonks, 
 and a grand master. They came to Europe from Palestine in 
 1 128 to make proselytes, and in a short time became possessors 
 of a vast extent of ground in the Faubourg du Temple, where 
 they eslablislied the seat of their rule, and exercised for inore 
 than two centuries a power, the prerogatives and abuses ot which 
 
254 SEVENTH WALK. 
 
 XVI. and his family were imprisoned in 1792, and thence h 
 was led to the scaffold. Sir Sidney Smith, Toussaint Louver- 
 ture, Moreau, and Pichegru, were also confined there. In 1811 
 the tower was demolished. Before the revolution of 17S9 the 
 Temple consisted of two distinct parts, viz., the Temple pro- 
 perly so called, and the palace of the Grand Prior of the Order 
 of Malta. The former was private property, and consisted of 
 hotels, gardens, and dwellings for tradesmen, artists, and also 
 for debtors who took refuge at the Temple to avoid arrest. Tiie 
 palace, which was pulled down in 1853, stood on the site of 
 the ancient Temple, but was built about 1566, by the grand 
 prior, Jacques de Souvre ; and the Chevalier d’Orleans, after- 
 wards invested with that dignity, repaired it in 1721. The Duke 
 of Angouleme was the last grand prior of Malta. In 1812, the 
 building was repaired and embellished, with the design of 
 becoming a residence for the Minister of Worship. At the 
 beginning of the Restoration Louis XVIII. disposed of it in 
 favour of the Princess de Conde, abbess of Remiremont, who 
 placed there a convent and school of Benedictine nuns. The 
 events of February, 1848, expelled them from it to make 
 room for the staff of the artillery of the National Guard. 
 
 Mairie DU 36 Arrondissement, which is to replace that of 
 the rue Vendome, is in course of construction. 
 
 Nearly opposite, in the rue du Temple, is 
 
 Ste. Flisadetii, — once the chapel of a convent for nuns 
 called the Dames de Ste. EUsaheth^ and now dedicated to St. 
 Elizabeth of Hungary. It was erected in 1628. The front con- 
 sists of abasement story with fluted Doric pilasters, and an upper 
 Ionic one supporting a sculptured segmental pediment. The in- 
 terior consists of a nave with Doric pilasters, and two aisles. 
 Beginning from the aisle to the left, the works of art hero arc, 
 1st chapel; an Adoration of the Shepherds; Christ preaching 
 to the people, and blessing little children, by Hesse; Christ 
 disputing m the Temple, by Lafon ; 2d. Tlie Virgin praying, 
 and the Merit of tending the Sick, liy Serrur ; a magnificent 
 
 monarchs were in a measure forced lo respect. The Tcmiile was 
 such a stronghold that Louis IX., before selling out for the Cru- 
 sades, h.ad his treasure conveyed lliere, as did Philippe lellardi 
 and Philippe le Bel. Their wcallh, irregularities, and turbulent 
 conduct at length induced Philippe Ic Bel, in i 3 ig, lo suppress 
 the order, putting many of them to the torture on a charge of 
 sorcery, and seizing tlieir lands. In (Sit Jacrpies de Molay, 
 and Guy, brother of Bcbeii dauphin of Auvergne, two of the 
 chiefs of the order, were burned alive on the spot now occu- 
 pied by the eauestrian statue of Henry IV. on the Pont Xeiif. 
 Part of their wealth was assigned to the brethren of the order 
 of St. John of Jerusalem, afterwards called Knights of Malta. 
 
THE SYNAGOGUE. 255 
 
 altar-piece by Blondel, representing St. Elizabeth depositing 
 her crown at the Saviour’s shrine. In the adjoining 
 
 recess: the kiss of Judas, by Fourau; 3d. The Publican 
 and tlie Pharisee, a fresco, by Gosse. In the aisle behind the 
 choir, four frescoes ; 1 . The seven sacraments of the Catholic 
 Church, by Jourdy ; 2. The virtue of Charity exemplified, by 
 Bezard ; 3. That of Hope, by Bohn ; 4. That of Faith, by Ro- 
 ger. Behind the high altar is the Lady Chapel, with six stained 
 windows, representing sacred subjects, by Mr. Jones, an Eng- 
 lishman. Here are the Adoration of the Shepherds, and 
 ' the Sacrifice of Abraham. The wainscoting around the choir 
 displays, in numerous compartments, the life of Our Saviour 
 carved in oak. First recess of the right-hand aisle, flanking 
 the window. King David, and the woman anointing Jesus, by 
 Roger; the iutrados of the pointed arch is painted with medal- 
 lions containing cherubs and other devices. The following 
 recesses display : 1. Ste. Genevieve, by Bezard; 2. A Mater 
 Dolorosa, by Bezard ; 3. St. John baptizing Christ, by Perig- 
 non. The semi-cupola of the choir has a fine fresco by Alaux, 
 representing the apotheosis of Ste. Elisabeth. 
 
 ’ We now approach the scene of one of those colossal trans- 
 formations so common in Paris. The rue de Turbigo, already 
 mentioned at the Pointe St. Eustache (see p. 247), has been 
 continued across a maze of dark and unwholesome streets to 
 the top of the rue du Temple, and a few months more will sec 
 it penetrate to the Boulevard. Entering this new street, wc 
 find, at No. 17, rue du Vertbois, the Ecole Municipale 
 Turgot (see p. loo), and opposite, at No. 18, is a door 
 leading to 
 
 The Synagogue (German rite), having its principal entrance 
 at 15, rue Notre Dame de Nazareth. — This temple was re- 
 paired in 1852. Tlie interior is decorated in the Moorish 
 style; the galleries for the ladies rest upon cast-iron columns 
 supporting six arcades on each side, forming together the num- 
 ber of the tribes of Israel ; the Tabernacle is to the south ; its 
 facade, of white marble, is approached by six steps of the 
 same material ; its interior is semi-circular. Before it is the 
 theba, or altar, having on one side two seats for the officiating 
 rabbins, and on the other the organ. The seats occupied by 
 the ladies of Baron Rothschild’s family are in the first gallery 
 to the right, close to the tabernacle. The Great Rabbi is I\I. 
 Isidore. Service on Friday evening and Saturday morning, 
 the hour varies according to the time of sunset. 
 
 Continuing our walk along the rue de Turbigo, the me 
 Montgolfier to our right, leads us to 
 
 The Mauche St. Martin, a parallelogram of 300 feet I'v 1 80, 
 
256 SEVENTH WALK. 
 
 erected in 1811 in the enclosure of the abbey of St. Martin des 
 Champs. The stalls, nearly 400, are arranged in two large 
 buildings. In the centre of the market is a fountain, consisting 
 of a basin supported by three allegorical figures in bronze, re- 
 presenting the genii of hunting, fishing, and agriculture ; and 
 opposite to this, a new fountain has been constructed. Near 
 the Marche St. Martin is a public promenade planted with trees. 
 A bird-market is held here on Sundays. 
 
 The rues Vaucanson and du Vert Bois lead hence into the 
 rue St. Martin, on the eastern side of which is the ancient 
 abbey of St. Martin des Champs, now transformed into the 
 
 Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, rueSt. Martin, No. 292. 
 — M. Gregoire, bishop of Blois, was the first who suggested 
 the idea of forming a national repository of machines, models, 
 drawings, &cc., for the improvement of machinery and imple- 
 ments connected with manufactures, agriculture, and other 
 branches of industry. The formation of this establishment was 
 ordained by a conventional decree in 1794, but it acquired 
 little importance till 17 98, when the three repositories of ma- 
 chines existing at the Louvre, (1) the Hotel de Mortagne, rue de 
 Charonne (2), and in the rue de I’Universite (3), were established 
 in the buildings of the ancient abbey of St. Martin des Champs, 
 and all patentees were directed to deposit their inventions at 
 the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, which was authorised to 
 have them published. In 1810 , a gratuitous school of arts was 
 formed, which, in 1817, was re-organised, and, in 1819 and 
 1836, received considerable additions. In 1838, a royal or- 
 donnance established it on its present footing (see p. 95). 
 Connected with it are two national schools of arts and trades 
 at Chalons and Angers. 
 
 Exterior. — The building comprises part of the abbey and 
 church of St. Martin des Champs, built in the 13th century by 
 Pierre de Montreuil, the architect of the Sainte Chapelle, and 
 now nearly all rebuilt. The church has a chaste Gothic front 
 towards the rue St. Martin, with a rose-window, buttresses, 
 and a slender octagonal tower. Two large modern wings, 
 fronting the rue St. Martin, are connected by an elegant arch- 
 way, with a triangular pediment, profusely sculptured. The 
 entablature towards the street is supported by two carya- 
 tides, representing Art and Science. The frieze bears 
 the words : Agriculture, Commerce, Industrie. Towards 
 the court, the inscriptions, commemorate the inauguration of 
 
 fi) These had been presented to the Aeademy of Sciences by 
 M. P. d’O/.amhray. 
 
 (■2) .100 machines bequeatlied to the State by Vaucanson. 
 
 (3) Agricultural implements of all countries. 
 
CONSERVATOIRE CeS ARTS ET METIERS. 257 
 
 the Abbey by Henry I. of France, in 1060 ; the institution of 
 the Conservatoire on the 19th Vendemiaire in the year 'Ilf 
 (1794); its installation in 1798, and the erection of the new 
 buildings from 1845 to 1852. The principal court has a 
 central Doric pavilion in front, its entrance communicatin 
 with the principal staircase, and is bounded to the left by 
 wing containing the offices of the Administraiion • to the ri4it 
 by the refectory, now the library, also built by Pierre de Mon- 
 treuil. It is liuttressed, and measures 42 metres by 7 • its 
 windows are worthy of attention. ^ ’ 
 
 Interior. -Ground-floor. —On descending the staircase be- 
 fore us, we find right and left a series of experimental ploimlis 
 and two passages filled with specimens of seeds from every 
 quarter of the globe, and fruits and roots beautifully executed 
 in marble, alabaster, and wax. Returning to the staircase 
 we enter the vestilmle, remarkable for its being so constructed 
 upon acoustic principles, as to convey a whisper diagonally 
 from one corner to the opposite one. The hall to our left on 
 entering contains weighing machines, together with a collec 
 tion of the weights and measures of the principal countries of 
 the world. I'urther on, ascending a fe\y steps, we enter five 
 rooms, belonging to the new wing, and containing specimens 
 of cast and sheet-iron, native plumbago, ores of copper See. • 
 furnaces and models of iron-works, besides beautiful’ lock- 
 smith’s work. Returning to the vestibule, we find opposite 
 another spacious hall, containing a large collection of joiners’ 
 implements, beautiful turning lathes, and curious specimens of 
 turners’ work. The adjoining hall, called Salle des Fila- 
 tures (1) contains looms and spinninsi-machines of every de- 
 scription. •' 
 
 We now come to a vestibule, which, to the left, opens into 
 a spacious gallery filled with ploughs, harrows, models of 
 nulls, &c., anatomical pieces of the horse and other domestic 
 animals, executed in wax, and a collection of seeds and other 
 
 (i) This gallery has an historical interest, from the fact of 
 ''cpresentativcs of the Mountain assembling here on the 
 13 th of Juno, 1849 , when the demonstration against the exne 
 dition to Rome was dispersed by General Changarnirr in fhe 
 rue de la Paix. When the representatives of the Mountain 
 who were assembled at the time in the Palais Royal were in- 
 formed of this, they placed themselves under the protection 
 of the artillerymen of the National Guard, and, escorted hy 
 hem, (lu.aed t.ic Palais Royal and proceeded to the Conserva- 
 toire des Arts et Metiers, with tlic intention of overihrowin- 
 T L n,' 1 "" oslablishing a provi.siona] 000^ 
 
 Jliey liist assembled m the Petit Amphitheatre opposite to tlie 
 Salle des Filatures, but afterwards adjourned to the latter. 
 
 47 
 
 bC eS 
 
258 SEVENTH WALK. 
 
 articles relating to husbandry. The heads of oxen of different 
 breeds are fixed to the walls. Some of the heavier mac-hines 
 arc visible under a shed in the adjoining garden, wliiich is 
 not accessible to the public. Returning hence, the same .ves 
 tibule ushers us into the interior of 
 
 The Church . — It has no aisles ; the roofing consists of tie- 
 beams, king-posts, and braces, which, with the rafters, ate 
 neatly’ painted in the Byzantine style like the rest of the in- 
 terior. There are 8 ogive windows on each side, fitted up 
 with stained glass. Above the ogive opposite the principal 
 ntrance we see two medallions with figures of Agriculture 
 and Manufacture, painted in fresco. This vast hall is now 
 called the Dep6t des Modeles, and contains various liydraulic 
 machines, such as the hydraulic press, water-mills, Archime- 
 des’s screw. See., besides planing and moulding- machines, 
 models of iron, works, carts, trucks, etc. To the right, on 
 catering, there is a steam-engine, which, during the day, com- 
 municates motion by means of straps to most of the above- 
 mentioned contrivances, while, on the opposite side, a large 
 water-tank, 6 feet in breadth, in solid masonry, occupies 
 nearly the whole length of the nave, furnishing the water ne- 
 cessary for the mills, etc. Aliove this, resting on pilasters G 
 feet in height, is a narrow iron reservoir likewise extending the 
 whole length of the nave for the display of the smaller ma- 
 chines, and the contrivances here exhibited for raising water. 
 
 A lateral staircase leads hence to the 
 
 Upper Story.— This consists of a long gallery, with a 
 parallel suite of rooms behind, and other rooms at both ends. 
 Tlie main gallery is filled with models of steam and fire-engines, 
 machinery for iron-foundries, models of roofing, patterns for 
 shawls, a model of the Danube steam-])acket, severed amid- 
 ships to bring the engine-room into view, another of the 90- 
 <nui ship Le Roi de Rome, a specimen of the sheet-iron used 
 hi the construction of the Great Eastern, etc. A little way 
 down the gallery, we find a room to our left, containing tele- 
 scopes and other astronomical instruments. Two large pho- 
 tographs of the moon will be remarked here. At the further 
 
 Their consultations, however, were soon interrupted by the 
 arrival of a detachment of soldiers, leaving them no other al- 
 ternative hut flight. Some made fheir escape through Ihe 
 hack-doors leading to the Marchfp and many, among whom 
 Ledru-Rollin, Boichol, and Rattier, through the sixth of the 
 ei'dit windows of this gallery (counting from the side of the 
 vestibule) which look into the garden. The troops and National 
 (iiiards arrested a few stragglers, who, together with other per- 
 .sous taken up on the following days, were tried before Ihe 
 Ir. 'h Court of Justice, convoked for the purpose at Versailles. 
 
CONSERVATOIRE DES ARTS ET Ml^TIERS. 259 
 
 end of the long gallery we find a series of six rooms, the first 
 containing specimens of ornamental tiles, etc. The next four 
 contain si)ecimens of large glass bells and cylinders, models of 
 lithograpliic presses, one of the hydraulic machine of Marly 
 (see p. 520), pumps, Archimedes’s screw, etc. ; a large glass- 
 stand filled with Chinese tools and manufactures, and a si- 
 milar one with Tunisian manufactures, and lastly, pottery and 
 glass ware. In the 5th there is a large table on wJiich our 
 earth, accompanied by the moon are seen to travel by clock- 
 work round the sun. This and the following room are de- 
 voted to optics and acoustics. On our return by the door to 
 our left we perceive in the last room of this suite a beautiful 
 porcelain vase adorned with bas-reliefs from the antique. 
 
 The visitor must now enter the rooms which run parallel to 
 the main gallery, filled with illustrations of the intersections 
 of lines and surfaces, bridges, carpentry, compasses, locomo- 
 tives, pulleys, specimens of stereotype, furnaces, crystalliza- 
 tions, the model of an Indian pagoda, 8cc. Two rooms of the 
 adjoining wing are filled with instruments of natural philosophy 
 such as air- pumps, barometers, a powerful electric machine 
 with an immense battery, &c. The third room of this suite is 
 devoted to watchmaking ; it contains all the instruments used 
 in that profession, besides clocks, chronometers, &c. In the 
 centre of the main gallery a door opens upon the magnificent 
 double staircase, the principal one, which descends to the ves- 
 tibule. It is highly gratifying to an Englishman to find the 
 names of Maudslay, Walt, Stephenson, Taylor, Edwards 
 &c., abounding in this museum. A catalogue may be had 
 on the spot. Crossing the court, we find to our left, in a nar- 
 row passage near the principal entrance, the door of the 
 Library.— Vitted up in the most tasteful style. It is bisected 
 by a line of seven lofty and slender columns, from each of 
 which spring eight ribs, expanding along the groins of the vault 
 To the left is an elegant Gothic recess, with a groined head - a 
 projecting balustrade shows that it was formerly used liy the 
 monks as a pulpit for reading during meals ; at present it is 
 merely ornamental ; a secret staircase within the wall gives 
 access to it. The whole interior of the building is painted in 
 the Byzantine style ; the capitals and bases of the columns are 
 gilt. The floor is boarded in the centre, but bordered with a 
 sort of mosaic of glazed bricks of various colours. The book- 
 cases and furniture are of oak, and of Gothic design. The 
 ogives of the eastern wall, now filled up, contain figures of 
 Chemistry, Natural Philosophy, Painting and the Plastic Art 
 m fresco ; in the roses above are liusts of Art and Science. ’ 
 The Grand and Petit Amphithedtre, or lecture-rooins are 
 
260 seventh WAlK. 
 
 in a Doric COurl adjoining the church. The former is remarkable 
 for its elegance, size, and comfort; the benches rise gradually 
 from the floor to an elevated gallery ; which is approached 
 by a staircase in the passage ; there is another entrance to 
 the amphitheatre below. This room will contain about 300 
 persons. (1) The Petit Amphitheatre has little to recommend it. 
 
 The Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers is open gratui- 
 tously to the public on Sundays and Thursdays, from to to 
 4, and on all other days of the week, from 10 to 4, at the 
 charge of one franc. The Library contains 20,000 volumes, 
 oil scientific subjects, and is open to students every day, Mon- 
 days excepted, from 10 to 3. On Mondays it is open to visi- 
 tors, with the museums, at the charge of one franc. The 
 lectures are all public and gratuitous (see p. 90). A pro- 
 gramme of the days, 8cc., may be had at the Conservatoire. 
 
 In front of the Conservatoire the visitor will remark the 
 elegant square planted with full-grown trees, and covering a 
 surface of 4,145 sq. metres. It is surrounded with a balus- 
 trade of stone from St. Yllie, in the Jura, which takes a fine 
 polish ; there are two basins adorned with bronze recumbent 
 statues of Trade, Manufactures, the Fine Arts, and Agriculture. 
 To the left is the new Theatre de la Gaite (see Theatres). 
 Further down in the rue St. Martin is the church of 
 
 St. Nicolas des Champs, — built in the year 1119, and 
 eiilari^ed in 1420 ; in 157 6 the choir and the chapels behind 
 it, now externally visible in the new rue de Turbigo, were 
 constructed. The western front, of 1420, is in the pointed 
 style. The western porch is adorned with eight statues of 
 saints and angels ; the southern one likewise deserves atten- 
 tion. The tower is square and buttressed. The interior con- 
 sists of a gothic nave and choir ; there are besides double 
 aisles, lateral chapels, and a demi-transept towards the 
 south! Talma was christened, and many distinguished 
 persons buried, here ; among them, Budoeus, the restorer 
 of Greek literature in France ; the philosopher Gassendi ; 
 Henry and Adrien de Valois, historians ; and Mile. 
 Scuderi. The high altar is Corinthian ; its altar-piece, by 
 Vouet, represents in the lower compartment, the Death of the 
 Virgin; and in the upper, her Assumption. Behind the 
 hi'^h altar is a chapel of the Holy Sacrament, enclosed by the 
 alfar itself and the apsis. The altar-piece represents the Last 
 Supper. Beginning from the right aisle, the works of art in 
 the chapels are, 1st chapel ; Christ bearing the Cross, by Gou- 
 
 (t) Lectures on recent inventions, specially intended for the 
 instruction of workmen, are given here every Sunday; and on 
 Thursdays to the pupils of the colleges and lyceums. 
 
BOULEVARD DE SEBASTOPOL. 261 
 
 tant. 2 d. A Deliverance of the Souls from Purgatory, and 
 Christ on the Mount of Olives, by Rouget. 4th. Ste. Genevieve 
 and St. Germain giving his blessing to Ste. Genevieve, by 
 Jouy. .'"ith. The Raising of Lazarus, by Souchon, and apainting 
 of St. Nicholas, clh. A Circumcision. 7th. A Holy Family 
 the Virgin being in the act of teaching the Saviour to read! 
 On the ceiling are some old frescos, in a very dilapidated 
 state. 9th. The Apotheosis of St. Renedict, by Lesueur. loth 
 St. Martin curing a leper, llth (the Lady Chapel, the vault of 
 which IS tastefully groined). The Adoration of the Shepherds 
 and the Repose after the Flight to Egypt, by Caminade. Over 
 the altar is a marble statue of the Virgin and Child, by 
 Delaistre. On the walls flanking the altar there are the Visi- 
 tation and the Annunciation, by Jonvaux. Opposite to this 
 chapel stands an altar with an altar-piece representing St. 
 Charles Borromeo administering the Sacrament to the plague- 
 stricken. 12 th. St. Cecilia, by Landelle. I3th. A Descent 
 from the Cross. 14th. The Archangel crushing the Demon, and 
 Jacob summoned to Egypt by Joseph. 15 th. The head of St. 
 John the Baptist brought to Herodias. 16th. Three excellent 
 old paintings on wood, representing the Passion. 17th. A 
 Last Supper, and St. Elizabeth distributing alms. 18th. The 
 LastSupper, byQuantin. 1 9th. St. Stephen attending a sickman. 
 20 th. St. Louis giving alms. 2 2d. Christ descending upon earth. 
 
 EIC^HTH 
 
 This comprises the 4th arrondissement and a fraction of the 
 3d. We will usher it in with the 
 
 Boulevard de Sebastopol, a continuation of the Boule- 
 vard de Strasbourg, opened throughout in April, 1858, and 
 now affording a direct communication between the Strasbourg 
 railway terminus and the Seine. Its continuation on the left 
 hank is also far advanced. The cost of this boulevard to the 
 city is stated at 81,000,000 fr. The section comprised be- 
 tween the rue Grenetat and Guerin Boisseau, occupies the 
 site of the Enclos de la Trinite, thus named after a hospital 
 built there in 1202 for the reception of pilgrims. The monks 
 of this establishment subsequently let out the largest hall of 
 the building to the Confreres de la Passion (see p. 459). In 
 1536 the Parliament ordered a portion of the buildings to be 
 reserved for patients labouring under contagious diseases, but 
 this decree was never enforced, and the establishment was at 
 length devoted to the education of poor children. Towards 
 the end of the 18lh century the hospital was pulled down, 
 and honsps for the poorer classes were erected on the site. 
 
262 EIGHTH WALK. 
 
 Lower down is the rue de Turbigo, which low connects the 
 Chdteau d’Eau (see p. 252) with the Pointe Si. Eustache ; and 
 further on, is the l)ack entrance to St. Leu ant St. Gilles, with 
 the adjoining presbytery, built in the Gothic sy;e(see p. 247). 
 Proceeding down the Bouieyard towards theStine,wesee the 
 Tower of St. Jacques de laBoucherie, eiecxd in 150 8-22. 
 — This is the only part remaining of the chuKh of that name, 
 which was demolished in 17 89. It was bought by the muni- 
 cipality, in 1836, for 250,000 fr., and has siace cost upwards 
 of a million francs for repairs. This magniicent tower was 
 formerly surmounted by a spire thirty feet hi^h, and is at pre- 
 sent one of the purest relics of Gothic archittctire extant. It 
 is square, with an engaged turret at the norlh-western angle, 
 graceful pointed windows, elaborate tracery, niches with sta- 
 tues of saints, and a perforated balustrade at the summit 
 adorned with the statue of St. John the Baptist and the four 
 animals attributed to the Evangelists. To br.ng the foot of 
 this tower to a level with the rue de Rivoli, the soil had to 
 be lowered three metres, which brought to lig'at several curi- 
 ous relics, besides bones, the ground having formerly been 
 a churchyard. This interesting structure row occupies the 
 centre of an elegant square of 5,7 86 sq. metres, laid out as a 
 garden, once intersected by the filthiest streets of the me- 
 tropolis, haunted by vendors of rags and old clothes. 
 The basement, Avhich has been added to strengthen the tower, 
 is ascended by 14 steps on both sides ; under the arch of the 
 ground-floor stands the statue of Pascal, who here performed 
 his first experiments to ascertain the weight of he atmosphere. 
 A Avinding staircase in the engaged turret of the north-western 
 angle leads to the top, and the trouble of mounting 294 steps 
 is amply repaid by the magnificent view of Paris the tower 
 affords. To the north we see the splendid rue de Rivoli ex- 
 tending below our feet in a mathematical lini ; we overlook 
 the Seine with its islands and bridges, the towers of Notre 
 Dame, the Louvre, on one side, and the Hotel de Ville on the 
 other, while Vincennes, the Pont Napoleon beyond Bercy, the 
 Mont Valerien, and Montmartre, lie far withir the horizon. A 
 tolerable telescope is at the visitor’s disposal hr a small gra- 
 tuity. The total height is 187 feet; the interior is hollow, 
 and may be seen from a circular aperture above. A small 
 fee is paid at the entrance. Adjoining this, is the 
 Place du Chatelet. — Here was the sit; of the Grand 
 Chatehd, the court of justice and prison of Paris during the 
 middle ages. The tribunal was suppressed at the revolution 
 of 17 89, and the building destroyed in 18C2. The present 
 square presents three sides of 220 feet, and, in the middle, 
 
CHAMBER OF NOTARIES. 2 03 
 
 contains a fountain erected in 1808 after the designs of M. 
 Bralle, the first monument erected in commemoration of the 
 victories of the Republic and the Empire. This fountain was 
 situated about 30 yards to the east of the spot it now occu- 
 pies; in order to bring it into the centre of the new square, it 
 was, in March, 1858, removed to its present site, horizontally 
 as it stood, and then raised up perpendicularly, for the pur- 
 pose of building a new basement under it. (1) It now con- 
 sists of a circular basin 20 feet in diameter, with a pedestal 
 and column in the centre, 58 feet in elevation, in the form 
 of a palm-tree. Upon the pedestal are four statues ; Justice, 
 Strength, Prudence, and Vigilance, which join hands and 
 encircle the column. The shaft is intersected with bands of 
 gilt bronze, inscribed with the names of the principal victories 
 of Napoleon. The water issues from four cornucopiaj termi- 
 nating in fishes’ heads and from the moutlis of four sphinxes ; 
 on two sides are eagles encircled by wreaths of laurel. Above 
 the capital are heads representing the Winds, supporting a 
 globe, on which stands a gilt statue of Victory. 
 
 On either side of this Place, opposite to each other, stand 
 two new theatres, replacing those of the Boulevard du Temple 
 (see Theatres), viz., jthe larger one to the west, the Theatre 
 duChdtelet-, the other, the Theatre Lyrique. 
 
 The Place du Chatelet is crossed by the Avenue Victoria, 
 to he continued to the Louvre. Fronting the Seine we see the 
 
 Chamber of Notaries, an elegant new building, looking 
 both into the Boulevard and the rue St. Denis, and having ils 
 principal entrance on the Place du Chatelet. It is three stories 
 liigh, and of Doric and Ionic design. Over the entrance are 
 the following inscriptions ; “ 806 , the Statutes of Charlemagne ” 
 — 1270, Edict of Louis IX.” — 1539, Ordinance of Francis I.” 
 — “ An II. Law of 25 Ventose, Napoleon Bonaparte,” — all in- 
 teresting dates for the notarial body. Large chesnul trees 
 of 50 years’ growth were planted, in 18 58, in front of 
 this building and around the Fontaine du Palmier, mentioned 
 above. The Chamber of Notaries is designed for the sale of 
 landed properly. It possesses a library, which is not public. 
 
 Near the corner of the Buc de Rivoli and Rue St. Martin, 
 beyond Ihe Tour St. Jaeques, is 
 
 St. Merri, originally a small chapel dedicated to St. Pierre- 
 des-Bois, near which St. Mcderic or St. Merri died in 700. 
 
 (I) Tlie oiieralioii ^Yas effeded liy means of a strong scaffolding composed 
 of iron and \Miod, to the iipi cr j ail of •\vliicli strong )•^lllcys yvoi o attached. 
 By means of Uiese ttie, yyIuiIc mass, YYcigtiing 000 Kilogrammes, \eas Kept 
 susiicndcitYYliilc tiic foundations y\ ere eleai ed awav,an.d a jilatfoim, luovidcd 
 Willi iron I'ililS, Mils iiiiaiiRcd Jielow. Tl:e coliimn, ymIJi the .scaffolding 
 whicli snrrouiided it, Yvas tlicn set in motion hy four capstans turned By 00 
 men. Tlie operation lasted 18 minutes. Another scaffolding Yvas afterwards 
 constructed for the purpose of raising it to its new level.s 
 
264 EIGHTH WALK. 
 
 In 1200, a church, huilt on its site, took for its patron St. 
 Merri, whose relics it contained. The present edifice, begun 
 in 1520, and finished in 1C12, has now been thoroughly 
 repaired. The western front is a beautiful specimen of the 
 florid Gothic. The principal entrance is pointed, and adorned 
 with tracery, expanding in rich canopies below, forming 
 heads of niches containing the twelve Apostles. To the 
 noi-th there is a beautiful octagonal turret, and to the south a 
 modern square one. The interior is cruciform, with double 
 aisles. The transepts have fine rose windows, and in most 
 of the others there are excellent specimens of old stained glass, 
 interspersed with modern. The first chapel of the aisle to 
 the right on entering, erected in 17 54, contains -. St. Charles 
 Borromeo during the plague at Milan, by Colson ; St. Chry- 
 sostom’s Vision of the Angels, by Peron ; altar-piece, the Sa- 
 viour at Emmaus. On the piers of the arches are a Holy 
 Family, the portrait of St. Vincent de Paule, and St. Bernard 
 at the bed-side of a patient, by Roberts ; 2d chapel, a Mater 
 Dolorosa, by Mignard. Transept; St. Peter praying, by Vien 
 (1784) ; Christ at the well with the woman of Samaria, by 
 Restout, sen. 3d chapel ; St. Martin sharing his cloak with 
 a poor man, by Burr, and St. Leonard, by Travier ; 4th. the 
 Assumption, by Coxie ; 5th. St. Germain blessing Ste. Gene- 
 vieve. by Picot; 6th. St. Francis Xavier preaching to the 
 Indians, by Robert (1730), and a Descent from the Cross; 
 8th. the Virgin consoling the Afflicted ; 9th. an Annunciation, 
 and a Descent from the Cross, by Colin de Vermont; also St. 
 Peter preaching, a good painting on wood; llth. the life of St. 
 John the Baptist, the Institution of Confession, the Adoration of 
 Saints, and the Holy Spirit descending upon the Apostles, frescoes 
 by Lehmann ; l2th. the Life of St. Philomene, by Amaury Du- 
 val ; 13th. St. Mary of Egypt, by Chasseriau ; 14th. the por- 
 trait of St. Vincent de Paule, and the same saint a slave in Afri- 
 ca, by Lcpaulle; 15th. various passages of the life of Marie de 
 rincarnation, by Cornu, viz., her reception by St. Francis de 
 Sales, her care of the wounded, and her death at Pontoise in 
 1618. Flanking the altar, figures in fresco of the Prophet Eli- 
 jah and St. Theresa. Transept ; a large painting of a miracu- 
 lous discovery of stolen chui’ch treasure by a curate of St. 
 Merri, by Belle (17 59); the miraculous Release of captives 
 at Melun by St. Merri, by Voiet ; 16th chapel; a valuable 
 painting on wood, of the I4th century ; on the panel of the 
 altar-table, Ste. Genevieve as a shepherdess ; a wolf fawns 
 upon her; i7th. a Descent from the Cross, in marble, by 
 Slodtz. On the front piers of the choir are St. Charles Bor- 
 romeo praying, and the Virgin and Child, by Vanloo (1753), 
 
PALAIS DES ARCHIVES IMPERIALES. 265 
 
 This church is remarkable for the obstinate resistance made in 
 It and the adjoining streets, in 1832, to Louis Philippe’s troops 
 Proceeding up the rue St. Martin, we find ourselves in a 
 quarter which still gives a good idea of what old Paris was. 
 lo the left IS the rue Qumcampoix, celebrated in the days of 
 the Financier Law as the place where his votaries resorted to 
 gamble m his Mississippi shares. Such was the crowd in 
 this street, that it had to be closed with gates at both ends in 
 order to admit none but the elect at certain hours To the 
 right IS the rue Beaubourg, once rue Transnonain, ’where a 
 bloody conflict occurred between the people and the troops in 
 April, 1834. 
 
 This quarter contains some of the most remarkable old 
 Hotels in Pans ; among them we may mention the 
 Hotel de St Aignan, 71, rue du Temple, near the corner 
 of the rue Rambuteau, a Corinthian edifice, now mutilated 
 built by Le Muet On its site stood the house where the 
 Connetable Anne de Montmorency died of his wounds after 
 the battle of St. Denis, Nov. 12, 1567. flenrv II. often re- 
 sided here ; and it was then called the Hotel de Montmorency 
 At the corner of the rue du Chaume and Vielles Haudriettes is the 
 rebuilt in 177 5, and adorned 
 with a fine bas-ielief of a naiad lying among rushes, by Mignot 
 In rue du Chaume, at No. 12, is the Gothic entrance to the 
 Ecole Imperiale DES CiiARTES ( See p. 99.) This entrance is 
 ^tuated under the spired turrets forming part of what formerly 
 w as the palace of the Prince de Soubise, and is now the ^ 
 Palais des Archives de l’Empire, the entrance of which is 
 .n the nie de Paradis.-Tlie Hotel de Soubise was built upon 
 the site of a mansion belonging to the Connetable de Clisson • 
 and, after passing through the family of the Guises, became the 
 property of theRohans in lo97. The old building extends to a 
 gi eat depth , and with its grands et petits appartements, as well 
 asthe gardens, constituted the proud residence of a family whose 
 motto was, “ Roi ne puis ; Prince ne daigne ; Rohan je suis.” 
 In the peMs appartements is a window lookiiig into the rue du 
 Chaume, belonging to the boudoir of a Duchess de Guise, once 
 the owner of the palace, from whence it is said her lover pre- 
 cipitated himself into the street on the approach of the Duke 
 After the revolution of 1789, some families of noble birth, who 
 had suffered by the times, were lodged here by order of Napo^ 
 leon ; and in 1 809 the whole edifice was consecrated to the pre- 
 seivation of the archives of the nation, (i) This precious Ll- 
 
 ( 1 ) Charlemagne, in si 3, ordered the flr.st collection of dncn 
 ^ History of France to be made, directing ih^td 
 
 siiould be preserved in the sovereign’s palace. But it afterwards 
 
2 06 EIGHTH WALK. 
 
 leclion originated with the National Assembly in 1780, and to 
 it were afterwards joined, besides all the acts and proces-ver- 
 baux of the legislature, the domanial and administiative ar- 
 chives the charters and other documents of the monastic bodies, 
 public’ papers relating to the topography and statisti-s of the 
 country as well as several other objects of value and rarity. 
 
 In 181 o’, 11, 12, all the riches of the archives of the countries 
 conquered by Napoleon were deposited here ; but these were 
 taken away by the allied troops a*fter the fall of the Emperor. 
 The ancient nobility, also, on their retiiin fiom emigiation, 
 demanded and obtained their title-deeds, which had been se- 
 questrated during the revolution. In the 15th century some 
 of the archives of the French monarchy were carried to 
 England, hut during that period of confusion the most important 
 wore preserved in the monasteries. 
 
 Exterior .—Ibe building has four courts ; the first, the Cour 
 de Soubise, forms a semi-oval, laid out in small fiower- 
 gardens, with a beautiful peristyle of coupled Cormthip co- 
 lumns running all round, and abutting upon the piincipal 
 front which consists of a central pavilion of two stories, and 
 wing’s of one story only, ornamented with coupled composite 
 columns, continued along the lower story of the pavilion, the 
 Upper story of which displays coupled Corinthian coluinns 
 crowned with a pediment bearing recumbent statues, while 
 other statues adorn the wings. The Cour de CUsson adjoins 
 the western buildings, and gives access to the Ecole des 
 Charles (sec above). Next is the Cour de Guise, bounded on 
 its western side by the old buildings erected by that family in 
 continuation of those built by the Clissons, and winch have 
 been saved from demolition by the present administration ot 
 the establishment; the buildings to the east are modern, and 
 are to be continued along the northern side of this couit. The 
 Cour de I’ Administration lies to the east of the latter, and 
 contains, as its name denotes, the apartments of the Dnector- 
 
 became the custom for the head of the State to carry the ar- 
 chives with him when he went to war, and in ii94 Ricliard 
 Cceur de Lion, having defeated Philip Augustus at Belleforge, 
 tooK possession of them, together with the royal seal. In 1220 
 the Chancellor Garin was charged to malm not only a collection, 
 hut copies of all charters then existing; and subsequently mo- 
 nasteries churches, communes, and corpovalions made coilec- 
 lions of their archives. Lp lo the time of SI. Louis the royal 
 archives of France were deposited in llie Temple, but he caused 
 them to be removed to the Ste. Chapclle, where they remained 
 for some centuries. In nsu there were in France 1 ,225 collec- 
 tions of archives, and a selection of 50,000 documents was 
 made from them, and deposited in the Royal Library at Pans. 
 
PALA.IS DBS ARCHIVES IMPERIALES. 267 
 
 General ami the offices of the establishment. Besides this, a 
 garden is attached to the apartments of the Director-General. 
 
 Interior. — The establishment, which is under the jurisdic- 
 tion of the Minister of State, is divided into four departments 
 or sections, viz. : 1st, the secretariat; 2dly, the historical sec- 
 tion, comprising old records and charters commencing from the 
 7th century, bulls, monastic and ecclesiastical records, others 
 relating to military religious orders, ancient schools and uni- 
 versities, genealogical matters, &c.— 3dly, the administrative 
 section, comprising the proceedings of the ancient Council of 
 State and the Council of Lorraine, also royal ordonnances, 
 letters patent, 5cc. ; documents relating to the constitutional 
 Begime of 1791, the Convention, Executive Directory, Con- 
 sulate, Empire, and Restoration, besides the contributions 
 from the departments of the Interior, Agriculture, Commerce, 
 and Public Works, Public Instruction and Worship; also the 
 records of the ancient Chamber of Accounts at Paris, and 
 documents relating to princely apanages, domains, national 
 property, sequestrations, confiscations, topographical maps, 
 and the division of France into departments. — 4 thly, the le- 
 gislative and judicial section, comprising laws, ordonnances, 
 edicts, letters patent, imperial decrees, both manuscript and 
 printed ; authentic copies and minutes of the Assembly of 
 Notables and National Assemblies, papers relating to repre- 
 sentatives sent on missions, and committees of the Convention 
 and other national assemblies, the Senate, Chamber of Peers, 
 Grand Chancellor’s office. Secretaries of the King, various 
 councils, the Parlement de Paris, the Chatelet, various courts 
 and jurisdictions, extraordinary tribunals. Court of Peers, &c., 
 and the contributions from the department of the Minister of 
 Justice. This immense mass of historical, administrative, and 
 judicial matter, which was found in 1861 to fill 500,000 
 volumes, boxes (cartons), portfolios, and bundles, occupies 
 130 rooms, and has been arranged with the greatest precision 
 by the present administration, so that any document may, by 
 referring to a plan of the building, executed by order of the 
 late Director-General, be produced at a moment’s notice. 
 If all the cartons and wrappers were placed in a line, they 
 would measure 29,600 metres, upwards of 18 English miles. 
 Extensive improvements are still in progress. The western 
 pavilion of the Cour de Guise containing a saloon decorated 
 with paintings by Boucher and Natoire, has been thoroughly 
 repaired. We need not enter into a minute description of the 
 other rooms, except one on the eastern first floor, where the 
 visitor may see a curious original painting imagined by the 
 Jesuits, of which engravings exist, representing a vessel, il- 
 
EIGHTH WALK. 
 
 268 
 
 lustrative of the dangers humanity, according to those faithers, 
 is exposed to from the machinations of the Evil One. This is 
 here, from its having been used as evidence in the proseicution 
 of the Jesuits, which led to their suppression in 1773. We 
 may now ascend the splendid staircase, giving access to 
 the Salle du Tresor des Charles, where, in a large vertical 
 frame, is a specimen of a collection of 15,000 casts pos;sessed 
 hy the establishment, of all the State seals from Childeric I., 
 A.D. 457, down to the time of Louis Philippe, together with 
 those of the towns and communes of France. The oldest 
 record preserved here, and rarely shown to strangers, is a 
 deed of Clotaire II., A.D. 62 5, on papyrus, containing a 
 donation of lands to the Abbey of St. Denis. This deed was 
 for the first time deciphered, and a fac-simile made of it, in 
 1852 ; and fac-similes have been made of other ancient deeds 
 also preserved here. Among the other interesting objects, 
 we may mention a model of the Bastille, cut out of a stone 
 of that fortress, various articles of apparel worn by Marie 
 Antoinette, the armoire de fer made by order of the National 
 Assembly in 1790 to contain the implements used in printing 
 the assignats, the golden seals of various Kings of France, 
 and the bulls of papal decrees, the keys of the Bastille, the 
 silver keys of Namur presented to Louis XIV., the famous 
 livre rouge found at Versailles, the wills of Louis XVI. and 
 Marie Antoinette, her last letter, the journal of Louis XVI., the 
 minute of the Droits de I’homme, the plate of the Assignats, 
 medals of the Empire, the standards of the metre, gramme, 
 and decagramme in platinum, autograph letters of Napoleon 
 I., and among them one written by him to Louis XVIII., &c. 
 In the adjoining room there are some excellent paintings by 
 Watteau. There is a valuable library of 1 5,000 volumes here. 
 For admission apply by letter (post-paid) to M. le Directeur 
 General des Archives de I' Empire, Palais des Archives. 
 
 Behind the Hotel de Soubise, in the rue Chariot, is 
 
 St. Francois d’Assise, second district church of the seventh 
 arrondissement. — The exterior and interior are both plain. It 
 was the chapel of a convent of Capuchins, founded in 1623. 
 It consists of a nave, choir, and one aisle ; the galleries opening 
 into the aisle, from whence the fraternity formerly heard 
 service, still remain. It is remarkable for some good paint- 
 ings it contains, namely: Noah’s Sacrifice, by Trezel, St. 
 John the Baptist, by Franque, St. John writing the Apoca- 
 lypse, by Trezel, a Crucifixion, St. Louis visiting tiis soldiers 
 sick of the plague, by Scheffer, St. Francois d’Assise before 
 Pope Innocent III., by Gaillot, the same saint before the sultan 
 of Egypt, byLordop, and Christ at the Column, by Degeorges, 
 
mPRIMEME IMPERIALE. 269 
 
 Over the doors of the sacristy is the apotheosis of St. 
 Francis. At the entrance of the choir is, on tire left 
 hand, a very remarkable kneeling figure of the patron saint, 
 in his monastic dress, of grey marble ; the hands and head are 
 of white marble. Opposite to it is one of St. Denis. Behind 
 the altar in the choir are several large paintings ; the best of 
 which are Christ appearing to St. Catherine, St. Francis re- 
 ceiving tlie stigmata of the Crucifixion, St. Charles Borromeo 
 at Milan, the Baptism of Christ, by Guerin, and the Communion 
 of St. Theresa. In the windows of the Lady Chapel are the 
 twelve Apostles in stained glass. 
 
 At No. 87 in the rue Vieille du Temple is the 
 
 Imprimerie Imperiale, formerly the Palais Cardinal. — 
 This hotel, erected in 1712, was the property of the Cardinal 
 de Bohan, so famous in the time of Louis XVI., and whose 
 intrigues brought so much unmerited odium on the unfortunate 
 Marie Antoinette. In this hotel the scenes described by Mme. 
 Campan took place. The Imprimerie Royale was first esta- 
 blished by Louis XIII. in the Tuilerics, and transferred to the 
 Gallery of the Louvre by Louis XIV. ; in 1792 a portion of it 
 was transferred to the Elysee Bourbon, under the name Impri- 
 merie du Bulletin des lois ; but in the year 1795 the whole 
 was established in the Hotel de Toulouse, or de Penthievre, now 
 the Bank of France ; it was finally transferred to the present 
 locality in 1809 (1). By a recent decree, this establish- 
 ment is now to be transferred to the new Louvre. Offi- 
 cial documents of every description are printed here, 
 for the government offices both of the capital and the 
 
 departments, besides the Bulletin des Lois, and a great 
 
 number of Oriental works, for which there are per- 
 manent correctors. About 950 persons, including up- 
 
 wards of 300 women and 40 boys, are constantly employed 
 in this establishment for lO hours daily. Compositors and 
 pressmen earn about 6 fr. a-day. After 30 years’ service 
 they are entitled to a pension of 400 fr., and a certain small 
 portion of their wages is deducted for a sick fund. The 
 bookbinders earn about 3 fr. 50 c., and the women about 
 2 francs per diem. The establishment is under the manage- 
 ment of a director, and six chefs de service, who have nu- 
 merous clerks under them. In the centre of the first court is 
 a fine bronze statue of Guttenberg, cast on the same model as 
 that executed by David ^’Angers for Strasburg. Its pedestal 
 
 (i) During tlie revolution of i83o, the mob broI<e into this 
 ofllce, and among them printers from other esiabtishments, who 
 destroyed the steam presses, thinking thereby to enforce a re- 
 turn to hand-labour ; but in 1848 the establishment was spared. 
 
270 EIGHTH WALK. 
 
 is adorned with bas-reliefs illustrating the progr^sof civiliza- 
 tion through the art of printing. Tlie visitor ii conducted 
 through all the different branches connected with tyrpogr aphy. 
 
 First is the type-foundry for alphabets of diffemii languages, 
 including the Chinese, Sanscrit, Tartar, and tie Asisyrian 
 cuneiform characters, (i) Stereotyping is not pradiseu in tlie 
 establishment. The compositors’ rooms come lext ; about 
 150 men are employed here. The hand-press ronn, consist- ^ 
 
 ing of two parallel galleries meeting a transverse me at right ; 
 
 angles, contains eighty-eight presses, each reiuiiing two 
 men. Upwards of 350,000 sheets arc struck )ff daily l)y 
 these presses. The printing of the ace of clubs, »f the kings, 
 queens, and knaves of cards, is also done here, tbs being a go- 
 vernment monopoly ; the number printed daily is ibout 12,000 
 packs. Card-manufacturers are allowed to print ill the other 
 cards themselves. A glazed partition separates thh room from 
 the printing machines, of which there are 19, all worked by 
 steam ; the same engine at the same time commuiicating mo- 
 tion to a hydraulic press for pressing paper, the power it ex- 
 ercises amounting to 800 tons. The hot steam is not lost, but 
 passes into a drying machine, and helps to warm the establish- 
 ment in winter. Adjoining the hand-press galleries is an- 
 other with 4 large lithographic presses ; above is a gallery for 
 draughtsmen, and another with 10 lithographic jresses more. 
 
 The various operations of sewing, binding, ami wetting the 
 paper, as well as the ingenious contrivances for speedy con 
 veyance of bundles or packs, for cutting paper, raling it, etc., 
 are very interesting. On the ground-floor of an adjoining wing 
 is the form-room, an immense gallery filled with whole works 
 in type, ready to be printed off as may berequirel. The forms 
 or types of government papers (about 20,000 at present) are 
 kept here for a long time after they are used. T.iere is also a 
 smithy on the premises for repairs. The Impriiuaie Imperiale, 
 besides an immense number of modern matrices, possesses 
 also several typographical curiosities ; the most interesting is 
 the Grec du Roi, being a complete set of matrices of Greek 
 characters engraved by order of Francis I., and so perfect in 
 form, that the University of Cambridge applied ;or a fount of 
 them in 1092. The oriental books, with coloured margins, 
 and other splendid specimens of typography, unique in their 
 kind, and which can scarcely be executed elsewhere, arc also 
 deserving of remark. When Pope fius VII. visited the Print- 
 
 (i) Tlicre are the types here of 5G oriental langaages, and 16 
 European ones not using the Latin characters. The latter exist 
 here in 46 different forms and sizes; 556 reams of paper, equi- 
 valent to 9266 octavo volumes, can he struck off iu a single clay. 
 
NOTRE dame DES BLANCS MANTEAUX. 27 1 
 
 ing-Office, the Lord’s Prayer was printed and presented to 
 him in 150 languages ; and, before he returned to his carriage, 
 he received a copy of the collection ready bound. There is a 
 cabinet containing sj;>ecimens of typography executed here, 
 which, even to a mere observer, is one of the most gratifying 
 sights in Paris. The authors of works of real utility, the 
 printing of which could not remunerate private enterprise, may 
 obtain their being printed here at the expense of government. 
 The receipts of this establishment are about 4,500,000 fr.; the 
 expenses 4,587,000 fr. Visible, on Thursdays at 2 p.m. pre- 
 cisely, with a ticket, for which apply by writing to M. le 
 Directeur de I’Imprimerie Imperiale. 
 
 At the corner of the rue des Francs-Bourgeois, there is an 
 elegant old turret, near which the jiiurder of the Duke of 
 Orleans, only brother of Charles VI., on Nov. 20, 1407, was 
 perpetrated (1), an event which gave rise to the bloody feud 
 so disastrous to France, and which led to its occupation by 
 the English. 
 
 At 7, rue de Paradis, or 16, rue des Blancs Manteaux, is a 
 large and well-designed edifice, the central establishment of 
 the Mont de Piete (see p. 128). At No. 12 is the church of 
 
 Notue Dame des Blancs Manteaux, — once the chapel 
 of a convent of mendicant friars, called the Blancs Manteaux, 
 from their dress, or the Serviteurs de la Vierge Marie, who 
 established themselves in 12 58. In 1297, another mendicant 
 order, the Guillemites, replaced them by order of the Pope ; 
 and, in 1618 , these were united to a Benedictine order, and 
 the monastery and chapel were rebuilt. The Tuscan and 
 Ionian facade of the church of the Baruabites, now removed, 
 has been adapted to this, which was the chapel of the old 
 convent. 'Within, its style is Corinthian. It consists of a 
 nave, with aisles, and a circular choir ; it has an arched ceiling 
 with lateral windows. The frieze is adorned with emblems of 
 
 (i) The Duhe had been supping with the Queen at the Hotel 
 Barbette, and was going to the Hotel St. Paul, on a pretended 
 suiniuons from the King, brouglit by a person in the conspiracy 
 of the Duke of Burgundy. He was mounted on a mule, fol- 
 lowed by two equerries on one horse, a page, and three foot- 
 men carrying flambeaux. On arriving opposite a house, called 
 L’lmage Notre Dame, he was attacked by is ai'med men, headed 
 by Raoul d’Octonvillc, a Norman gentleman. The equerries’ 
 horse ran away with them, and IheDuke wms set upon bythe band 
 crying : “ A movt!” “ 1 am the Duke of Orleans!” he exclaimed. 
 “ It is you whom we want,” replied the murderers, and at the 
 same moment a Vialtle-axe cut off his bridle-hand. Several 
 blows of swoti’ds and clubs succeeding each other, lie fell to the 
 ground, but defended himself on his knees, parrying for some 
 
275 EIGHTH WALK. 
 
 the Jewish ritual, and with monograms of various saints. 
 Facing the aisle to the left, is Jesus washing the feet of the 
 Apostles, by Latil. On the wall of the aisle are three paint- 
 ings by Lafon ; viz. the Baptism of Christ, the Marriage of the 
 Virgin, and St. Benedict with St. Scholastica, his sister. There 
 are besides ; the Miracle of the loaves and fishes by Andran 
 (1C83) ; and the Feast of Cana. In the right aisle is the Arch- 
 angel crushing the Demon ; and Christ cuiing a possessed man, 
 by Frosse; an Assumption, by Dejeanne (1740); and an An- 
 nunciation. Facing the aisle is a beautiful Adoration of the 
 Shepherds, by Bralle ; and over the entrance is a large and 
 splendid picture of the death of St. Petronilla, of the school of 
 Guercino, This painting, one of the finest in any of the Pari- 
 sian churches, was given to the church on its restoration to 
 worship ; it came from Versailles. The pulpit, of modern 
 construction, deserves attention on account of its gorgeous 
 decoration in the style of Louis XV., and its inlaid work, re- 
 presenting, in various compartments, different Biblical sub- 
 jects. The canopy is adorned with figures of the Archangel 
 Michael and the four Evangelists. 
 
 At No. IG, in the rue des Billettes, we find 
 
 The Lutheran Church {Les Cannes Billettes) — Built in 
 1745, after the designs of Claude, a Dominican, and belonged 
 to a body of Carmelite friars. In 1790 the convent was sup- 
 pressed, and in 1808 it was bought by the City of Paris, and 
 given to the Lutherans. In the vestry are several good pic- 
 tures, presented by General Rapp, and other Protestants. Ser- 
 vice is performed on Sundays, at 1 2 in French, and at 2 in 
 German. Adjoining the church is a small court, surrounded 
 by a Gothic portico, belonging to the old monastery. 
 
 The rue Croix de la Bretonnerie leads to the 
 
 Marche, des Blancs Manteaux, opened, in 1819, on the 
 site of the convent des Filles Ilospitalieres de St. Gervais. 
 It is flanked by a municipal primary school for Jews. 
 
 At No. 47, rue Vieille du Temple, is 
 
 time the attacks with his arm. “ Qu’est ceci? D’ou vient ceci?” 
 he exclaimed from time to time. At length, a blow from a club 
 dashed out his lirains. A man, whose face was covered with a 
 scarlet hood, came out of the house, and with a club struck the 
 dead body, saying, “ Eleignez tout; allons-nous-en ; it cst mort.” 
 They then set fire to the house in which they had been concealed, 
 and look to flight. The Duke of Burgundy a few days afterwards 
 fled from Paris, having confessed to the Duke dc Berri that the 
 deed had been done by his oreler, because the Duke of Orleans 
 had placed the Duchess of Burgundy’s picture among those of his 
 mistresses. The Duke of Burgundy was aftcrwaids assassinated 
 at the bridge of Montercau by the son of the Duke of Orleans 
 
HOTEL DE CARNAVALET. 273 
 
 The Hotel de Hollande (so called from being the Dutch 
 Ambassador’s in the reign of Louis XIV.), built by Cottard, 
 and once inhabited by Beaumarchais. On the walls round the 
 court may be seen four dials and some astronomical diagrams 
 faintly traced, with Latin inscriptions. In the first court, over 
 the gateway, is a bas-relief, the Finding of Romulus and Re- 
 mus ; on the urn of the Tiber is the date 1660. 
 
 No. 12 in the rue des Francs Bourgeois was the residence 
 of the Dukes de Roquelaure, and No. 15 is an hotel of the 
 time of Henry IV. At the corner of the rue Pavee stands 
 
 The Hotel de Lamoignon, one of the most elegant of the resi- 
 dences of the old nobility. Its front is adorned with fine Corin- 
 thian pilasters, and in the pediments over the wings are shields 
 with stags’ heads, the horns held by angels ; heads of hounds, &c. 
 A beautiful balcony in the northern wing, and a curious square 
 turret at the corner of the street, should be remarked. 
 
 In the rue Pavee were the Hdtel de la Home, and Hdtels 
 de Gaucher, de Chdtillon, and d’ Herbouville, or de Savoisi. 
 Here stood also the prison of La Force, formerly the hotel of 
 the Due de La Force, but converted into a prison in 1780, ( see 
 p. 7 5); it was demolished in 1851, and new streets opened on 
 its site. A new quarter has sprung up between the space once 
 occupied by the Marche St. Jean (1) and the rue Culture Ste. 
 Catherine. Hereabout stood the house of Pierre de Craon, 
 razed to the ground in consequence of his attack on the Con-^ 
 netable de Clissonin 1392. In the Rue du Roi de Sicile, No. 
 32 was for some time inhabited by Gabrielle d’Estrees. 
 
 At No. 23, in the rue Culture Ste Catherine, is the 
 
 Hotel de Carnavalet, one of the most beautiful mansions 
 of the 16th century, built in 1544 by Jean Bullant, architect, 
 and decorated with sculpture by Jean Goujon . It was the 
 residence of Madame de Sevigne, and the Countess de Grignan, 
 her daughter. The front is adorned with Ionic pilasters. The 
 sculptured gateway is by Jean Goujon, as well as the winged 
 figmeon tu6 key-stone, the two lions trampling on armour, 
 several medallion trophies, &c. In the court, the centre group 
 IS by the same hand, and consists of Fame attended by two 
 mnged messengers. The other devices are by artists of less note, 
 but are all above mediocrity. This hotel was once distinguised 
 above all others in Paris, as the favourite resort of wit, learn- 
 ing, and refinement. The drawing-rooms of Madame de Se- 
 vigne and her daughter are still shown, with the closet im- 
 mortalised by the Letters there composed, and a portrait, by 
 
 (0 It was formerly a cemetery, and used as a place of exe- 
 cution. In 1 535, a merchant, named Etienne de la Force, was 
 burnt alive here for heresy. 
 
 48 
 
274 EIGHTH WALK. 
 
 Mignard, of the gifted aathoress. (1) In the garden, there 
 are two sycamore trees planted in her time. This hotel has 
 now been purchased by the City for the purpose of convert- 
 ing it into a 
 
 Monicipal Museum, where a vast number of valuable 
 paintings and other curiosities, relating to the History of 
 Paris, and now lying almost forgotten in the lumber-rooms 
 of the Hotel de Ville, will find a suitable place. Among 
 them there is a splendid missal, once the property of Jacques 
 Juvenal des Ursins, Prevot des Marchands in 1388 ; it cost the 
 City 35,000 fr. at Prince SoltikofPs sale. The Library of the 
 City (see p. 290) is also to be transferred to this Hotel, when 
 a reading-room will be opened to the public. 
 
 The rue Ncuve Ste Catherine leads eastwards to the 
 
 Place Ho vale, once Place des Vosges (2), standing on the 
 site of the famous Palais des Tournelles, so called from its 
 many turrets. It occupied a great extent of ground; and 
 many of the neighbouring streets bear names which mark the 
 site of some of its principal parts. It was in this palace that 
 the masfiuerade took place, which so nearly proved fatal to 
 Charles VI. ; and it was in the great court that the tournament 
 was held, in which Henry II., tilting with the Count de Mont- 
 gommeri, received a wound in the eye, of which he died, 
 (see p. 109 ft.) In consequence of this event, Catherine de Me- 
 dicis caused the palace to be demolished in 1505, and the pre- 
 sent “place” was begun in 1604, under Henry IV. Its 
 surface is 15,350 square yards ; the houses are all of red brick, 
 with stone quoins and high roofs ; a wide but low arcade 
 runs round the square, which is adorned with fountains, 
 planted with trees, and surrounded with railings. An eques- 
 
 [1] In pulling down a house near this hotel in 1849, an old 
 worm-eaten box was found, containing some manuscripts of 
 the age of Louis XIII., and attributed to Marion Delorme, tlie 
 famous courtesan, under the title of Ma Confession. At the corner 
 of this street Pierre de Craon, Chamberlain to the Duke of Or- 
 leans, afterwards assassinated by the Duke of Burgundy (sec 
 p. 273 n.), waylaid the Conndlabte de Clisson in 1392 . 
 
 ( 2 ) In the year VIII of tlie Republic, the Consulale issued a 
 decree, by which the department which should be the first to re- 
 lieve the penury of the Treasury by paying its taxes should be 
 honoured by having its name affixed to one of the public squares 
 of the capital. The department of the Vosges having been fore- 
 most in obeying the summons, the Place Iloyale was in conse- 
 quence called Place des Vosges. At the restoration in 1814 it ve- 
 sumed its former name. From that tiiue, the Conseil-Gdneral 
 des Vosges pelitioned the government every year to have its own 
 name restored; this was done immediately in February 1848 ; 
 but the old name has been restored since August, i853. 
 
PLACE ROYALE. 275 
 
 trian Statue of Louis XIII. , erected here by Richelieu in 1639, 
 was destroyed in 1792, hut its place was supplied, in I 829 ’ 
 hy the present one, in white marble, by Dupaty and Cortot. 
 This was formerly the court end of the town ; it is now 
 chiefly inhabited by persons of limited income. 
 
 Passing through the central archway on the northern side, 
 we perceive, in the rue de la Chaussee des Minimes, the spa- 
 cious barracks of the Gendarmerie, recently erected ; and, 
 turning to the left into the rue St. Gilles, we find ourselves 
 in the rue Turenne. At the corner of the rue Ste. Claude is, 
 
 St. Denis du St. Sacrement.— Here there formerly stood 
 the chapel of a convent of nuns, demolished in 1828. The 
 present edifice has a projecting portico, of four Ionic columns, 
 supporting a pediment, with an alto-relievo by Feuchorcs’ 
 representing Faith, Hope, and Charity. The interior consists 
 of a nave and aisles with chapels at each extremity ; the semi- 
 circular ceiling of the nave, sculptured in elegant compart- 
 inents, is supported by a range of eight Ionic columns on 
 either side. The choir, which is semicircular and crowned 
 by a semi-cupola, is painted in fresco, by Abel de Pujol ; 
 the subject in the cupola is the Trinity ; that of the frieze’ 
 St. Denis preaching Christianity to the pagan inhabitants of 
 Gaul. In the adjoining Lady Chapel, at the extremity of the 
 right-hand aisle, is a large fresco by Court, representing the 
 Virgin consoling the afflicted. In the chapel opposite is the 
 Descent from the Cross, in fresco, by Delacroix. The chapels 
 of the left aisle have each a fresco ; that next to the choir, 
 Christ at Emmaus, by Picot ; the one opposite, Christ calling 
 children around him, by Decaisne. 
 
 On the Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire stands the Cirque 
 Napoleon, a kind of Astley’s (see Theatres.) 
 
 HIITTH WA.LZ, 
 
 This walk, comprising the 11th and l 2 th arrondisseraents, 
 may be commenced from the 
 
 Boulevard du Prince Eugene, inaugurated in Dec., 1862, 
 and extending in a direct line from the Boulevard du Temple 
 to the Place du Trone (see p. 27 8). At the point where it 
 meets the rue St. Sebastien, it crosses the beautiful 
 
 Boulevard Richard Lenoir, formed over the arched ropf 
 of the Canal St. Martin, and lined with trees. Air shafts, 
 protected by railings encircling ornamental shrubs and flowers. 
 
270 NINTH WaLKi 
 
 are pierced at intervals through the vault, which mOasureS 
 1,600 metres (one mile) in length. At the western end we 
 perceive from here the new stone bridge thrown across the 
 Canal where the arched roof ceases. 
 
 Continuing along the Boulevard du Prince Eugene, wc find 
 in the rue St. Amliroise, 
 
 St. Ambiioise, chapel of ease to Ste. Marguerite, dating 
 from 1639, when it belonged to a convent of nuns called the 
 Annonciades. This contains some very good pictures. The 
 altar-piece represents St. Ambroise protecting an Arian from 
 persecution, by Vafflard. By a decree of the Civil Power of 
 the 20th Prairial in the year II, this church was devoted to the 
 worship of the Goddess of Reason, and the cellars werejturned 
 into a wine and beer-shop, A revolutionary committee sat 
 in the porter’s lodge, now demolished. 
 
 Turning into the Avenue Parinentier, we find the 
 
 Abattoir de Popincourt, or de Menilmontant. It con- 
 sists of 23 piles of building, on a sloping ground, and within 
 a walled encdosure 645 feet by 57 0. To the right and left of 
 the central court, 438 feet in length by 291 in breadth, are 
 four immense slaughter-houses. They are each 141 feet long j 
 by 96 broad, and include respectively a flagged court, on j 
 each side of which are eight slaughter-houses for the use of ; 
 the butchers. Above are spacious attics for drying the 
 skins and preparing the tallow ; and to preserve coolness a ^ 
 considerable projection has been given to the roofs. Behind 
 these slaughter-houses are two ranges of sheds, containing 
 siieep-pens, and at the extremities are eight stables for about 
 400 oxen ; each of these buildings contains a loft for forage. 
 
 At the end there is a watering-place, and pens for cattle, 
 besides two detached buildings, each traversed by a broad 
 corridor, which communicates with four melting-houses, below 
 which are cellars, containing coolers. Beyond these, parallel 
 with the outer wall, are two buildings raised on cellars, in 
 which the skins are kept, and near them, in front of the en- 
 trance, is a doable reservoir for water, 228 feet in length, built 
 in solid masonry, and resting on arches which form stands for 
 carts. There is also a triperie, or building for washing and boil- 
 ing tripe and calves’ feet. Cattle and sheep, on entering Paris, 
 are immediately driven to one of the abattoirs, and there kept 
 at the cost of the butcher ; the meat is taken to the shops dur- 
 ing the night before 4 o’clock a.m., and the men are not 
 allowed to appear in the streets of Paris in the clothes they 
 wear at the abattoirs. The slaughterings vary in amount here, 
 but may be estimated at the weekly average of 800 oxen, 
 
 300 cows, 600 calves, and 3,000 sheep. The establishment 
 
ST. MARGUERITE. 277 
 
 is superintended by a resident inspector of police, and a 
 market-inspector; it gives employment and lodging, inde- 
 pendently of the butchers and their servants, to 18 officials 
 with their families. Strangers are readily admitted on appli- 
 cation at the porter’s lodge. A small fee is expected. 
 
 At the junction of the Avenue Parmentier with the Boule- 
 vard du Prince Eugene, stands the Mairie of the llth arron- 
 dissement, now in course of construction, with a small orna- 
 mental grass plot before it, in front of which stands the 
 
 Statue of Prince Eugene, of colossal size, hy Dumont, 
 lie is represented standing, with his head bare, and in a 
 general’s uniform. The front of the pedestal bears the inscrip- 
 tion : “All Prince Eugene Napoleon,” with the arras of the 
 City of Paris, and the motto • “ Fluctuat nec mergitur.” On 
 the back of the pedestal the words are engraved which the 
 Prince wrote in 181 i to the Emperor Alexander, declining the 
 overtures of the Allies. The remaining two sides are adorned 
 with eagles hearing laurels, and with the names of the battles 
 at which the Prince was present. 
 
 The Passage Richard Lenoir, and rue de Charonne lead to 
 the rue St. Bernard, where we see 
 
 Ste. Marguerite, — originally a chapel, erected in 1625. 
 The interior is cruciform, with aisles. This church is rich in 
 pictures. In the right aisle there is St. Louis Visiting the 
 Sick ; in the Chapel of the Virgin, the Infancy of Jesus, and 
 a Descent from the Cross, by Lesueur ; a Salutation of Mary and 
 Elizabeth, by Suvee (17 81); and two large paintings of St. 
 Vincent de Paule conversing with Anne of Austria, and 
 preaching, by Galloche and Restaut, forming part of a series 
 of pictures relating to that saint. Over the sacristy door is 
 Moses in prayer before Israel ; and, next to it, the Virgin Mary 
 and Apostles invoking the Holy Ghost. Behind the high altar 
 is a fine alto-rilievo of the Descent from the Cross, by Girardon, 
 in white marble. Next, in the left aisle, is the spacious chapel 
 des Ames du Purgatoire, built in 17 65, with a large painting 
 on canvas representing the Delivery of Souls from Purgatory. 
 In the left transept are; St. Vincent de Paule conversing with 
 St. Francis de Sales, hy Restaut ; the same preaching, by 
 Baptiste, and his Apotheosis ; Ste. Magdalen’s Vision of the 
 Cross, by Vafflard. At the entrance of the nave are two plaster 
 groups, one of Ste. Elizabeth giving alms, the other of the death 
 of Ste. Magdalen, by Maindron. Above these are St. Louis in 
 Egypt relieving the plague-stricken crusaders. The pulpit has 
 good bas-reliefs in oak. The rector of this church was the first 
 Catholic priest who broke the vow of celibacy at the revolu- 
 tion of 1789. It is sa.id that the unfortunate Dauphin, son of 
 
NINTH WALK. 
 
 278 
 
 Louis XVI., who was entrusted to the care of a cohhler, 
 named Simon, whose ill treatment he did not long survive, 
 was huried in the cemetery of this churcli. 
 
 At No. 184, in the rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, is the 
 
 Mopital St. Antoine, established in 1795 in the buildings 
 of the abbey of St. Antoine des Champs. Strangers are ad- 
 mitted on Thursdays and Sundays from 1 to 3 (see p. 139). 
 
 Higher up, at the corner of the rue de Picpus, stands the 
 
 Maison Eugene Napoleon (see p. 122). — We may now 
 enter the adjoining 
 
 Place du Tuone, a circular space, planted with trees around. 
 The Jacobins used it as a supplementary place of execution ; in 
 August, 17 94, they immolated 59 of their victims here in one 
 day. It is now used for public festivals for this quarter of Paris ; 
 and fire-works, shows, games, 8cc., when given by Govern- 
 ment take place here as well as in the Champs Elysees. A 
 gingerbread fair is annually held here after Easter. (1) Be- 
 yond it, we perceive the two lofty Doric 
 
 Columns of the Place du Trone, erected in 1788, and 
 finished in 1847. Above the bases are colossal figm'es in bas- 
 relief; those facing the outer boulevard, by Desbeeufs, represent 
 Peace and Victory; those on the other side, by Simart, Industry 
 and Justice. Winding staircases lead to galleries crowning 
 the capitals, on each of which is an acroterium supporting a 
 colossal bronze statue ; one represents St. Louis, by Etex, the 
 other Philip Augustus, by Dumont. A throne was erected 
 here, on which Louis XIV. received the homage of the City, 
 on his triumphal entry, Aug. 2Cth, 16G0, whence its name. 
 The two edifices right and left of the columns were the octroi- 
 buildings of the Barriercs of the old enclosure of Paris, built 
 by the Minister Calonne in 17 86, and pulled down in I860 (2). 
 They are good specimens of what the others were. The road 
 hence to Vincennes is wide, with a fine avenue. 
 
 Eight avenues, including the Boulevard du Prince Eugene, 
 
 (1) A triumphal arch is to he erected here to commemorate 
 the Russian and Italian wars. 
 
 (2) The farmers-geucral, in order to increase the octroi duties, 
 prevailed on the minister Calonne to execute these works, not- 
 withstanding the opposition of tlic inhahi'.aiits of Paris, which 
 gave rise to the following pun : 
 
 Lc null- murant Paris rend Paris nniruiiirant. 
 
 The old enclosure measured 29 !4 miles in circumference, willi 
 56 barriers. In May 1791, the entrance duties were abolished, 
 in consequence of which Hie barriers became useless. Under the 
 Directory, about the year V, a small duty was levied, and the 
 harriers w'crc repaired. The produce of tlicse duties, being given 
 to Jiospitals, it took the name of octroi de bienfaisance, Napoleon L 
 
BOULEVARD MaZAS. 
 
 279 
 
 radiate from liie centre of the Place du Trone, and two more 
 are in contemplation for symmetry’s sake. Of those now 
 existing, not the least important is the 
 
 Boulevard Mazas, opened in 1853, and extending down to 
 the quays. King Dagobert had a palace in this neighbour- 
 hood, which- was also inhabited in the l7th century by the 
 notorious Marquise de Brinvilliers. 
 
 Entering the rue de Piepus from this Boulevard, we find, at 
 No. 12, the hospital called il/afson d’£'? 2 g'/i/en, (see p. 123.) 
 and, lower down, at No. 35, an Augustine convent, now 
 occupied by the Dames du Sucre Coeur. Within the walls 
 of this establishment is the small pidvate CimeUire de Piepus, 
 containing the remains of several noble families, such as de 
 Noailles, de Grammont, de Montaigu, Rosamho, Lamoignon, 
 8cc. ; and Lafayette. In an adjoining spot repose several 
 victims of the reign of terror. Visitors are admitted. 
 
 At No. 78 is a Jewish hospital, built by Baron James 
 Rollischild, and inaugurated on the 2Cth of May, 1852. Be- 
 sides llie common sick-wards provided for each sex, there are 
 in this hospital several rooms for peculiar complaints, or for 
 patients who can afford to pay. There are baths on the 
 ground-floor, besides a laundry and dispensary. The estab- 
 lishment also has a spacious garden. The ventilation of the 
 wards is excellent. Strangers are admitted on Wednesdays, 
 Thursdays, and Sundays from l to 4. The cost of this building 
 was 400,000 fr. Close to it is a Maison de retraite for aged 
 Israelites. Architect, M . Thierry. 
 
 A few steps along the outer Boulevards, skirting what for- 
 merly was the village of La, Grange PinU\ wTll bring us to the 
 rue de Reuilly, where at No. 30, we find the church of 
 
 St. Ei.oi, presenting a gabled front in the Lombard style. 
 It consists of a nave and two aisles with arched ceilings, all 
 elaborately painted in the Byzantine st 3 ?le. The choir is 
 painted in three compartments by Midy and Doerr, represent- 
 ing ; 1 , St. Eloi or Eligius as a smith ; 2 . The same as Bishop 
 of Noyon, preaching ; 3. The same as Minister of King Dago- 
 bert. At tlie extremity of the right aisle is the cliapel of the 
 Virgin, and in the other aisle that of the Abbess St. Aurea re- 
 ceiving the veil from St. Eloi. 
 
 Crossing the Boulevard Mazas, we see exteiisive barracks, 
 occupying the site of the Royal looking-glass manufactory 
 erected by Colbert. 
 
 Descending the Boulevard Mazas, the visitor will perceive 
 
 fmi.-lied tlie odroi-wall, and considerahly increased llie duties. 
 On Ilje river, at the eastern and western extremities of the city, 
 duties are levied by ocfi’oi-boats calted mtachen. 
 
NINTH WALK. 
 
 280 
 
 a row of houses of simple desip, 16 in number, built by the 
 Emperor for the accommodation of workmen at low rents. 
 They comprise 311 lodgings, and 36 shops and back-shops, 
 and will hold about l,200 persons. Judging, however, from 
 the window-curtains of the first and second stories, the in- 
 mates would seem to belong to classes somewhat removed 
 from the level of those foi- whom the houses were intended. 
 Most of the apartments are composed of an ante -room, kit- 
 chen, dining-room, and one or two bed-rooms (1.) The 
 stranger will remark the activity with which building is car- 
 ried on in this quarter. 
 
 The rue Beauveau leads to the uninteresting Marche Beau- 
 veau, a kind of rag-fair. The Boulevard is crossed by the 
 viaduct of the Vincennes railway, parallel and close to which 
 the new Avenue de Vincennes extends to the new race-course 
 of that place, and to which it is the shortest road. Further 
 down, we find on our right the Prison Mazas (see p- 75, )and 
 nearly opposite, the terminus of the 
 
 Lyons Railway — fronting the whole length of the rue de 
 Bercy, from the Boulevard Mazas to rue Rambouillet. In the 
 centre of this extent a double flight of stairs gives access to 
 an immense terrace, 12 metres from the level of the street. 
 The whole terrace leading to it from the rue de Lyon, is 570 
 feet in length by 250 in breadth, and the total surface occu- 
 pied by the terminus is 550,000 square feet. Behind the 
 edifice there is another terrace, and carriage ways lead up 
 to both. A bold arch fronts the new rue de Lyon, which 
 opens into the Place de la Bastille. 
 
 The rue de Bercy leads to the exterior Boulevard of that 
 name, which reaches to the Seine, skirting the village of 
 Bercy, now annexed to Paris as part of the 12th arrondisse- 
 ment. This place is still the great wine-mart of Paris, but the 
 trade is likely to be shifted elsewhere, when the full effect of the 
 annexation shall begin to be felt. The warehouses for wine extend 
 half a mile along the river. Wine can be left here in bond ; and 
 the quay is at times quite covered with casks. At Bercy is the 
 
 Pont de Bercy, or de la Gare, formerly a chain bridge, 
 now rebuilt of stone. It cost 7 50,000 fr. 
 
 Further up the river is the Pont Napoleon, a new viaduct 
 
 (0 The Municipality intend giving the system of cites ouvrieres 
 anolher fair tiial, notwilhstan ling Us previous bad success, 
 (see p. 233 .) A surface of 20,000 square metres, having a front 
 of 80 metres, is to be enclosed in this faubourg, with houses 
 four stories higli, offering accommodation to 16 rainilics each. 
 A number of rooms for single men, at 10 fr. a month, a bed, a 
 table and two chairs included, are also to be provided. 
 
PLACE DE LA BASTILLE. 281 
 
 over the Seine for the railway round Paris. There is here a 
 floating octroi-office moored on the river. Immediately within 
 the line of the outer Boidevard stands the great 
 Depot des Fourrages, for the garrison of Paris, a hand- 
 some building, 300 feet long, and 4 stories high, with sheds 500 
 feet long, and 25 feet high, for straw, hay, &c. 
 
 The Quai de la Rapte crosses the Place and Boulevard Mazas. 
 Further on is the Boulevard de la Contrescarpe, skirling the 
 fine port or Garc dii Cana'. Sf. Marlin, and ending at the 
 Place de la Bastille. — The Bastille was attacked and cap- 
 tured by the people on the 14th of July, 17 89. In May and 
 June of the following year it was demolished, in pursuance of 
 a decree of the National Assembly, and part of the materials 
 were emiiloyed in the construction of the Pont de la Concorde. 
 Its site now forms the Place de la Bastille, part of the moat 
 having been converted into the port mentioned above. Here 
 it was, at the entrance of the Faubourg St. Antoine, that 
 the insurgents of June 1848 had erected their strongest bar- 
 ricade, which it required all the efforts of artillery to over- 
 throw. It was on this barricade that Monseigneur Denis 
 Affre, archbishop of Paris, met with his death, in attempting 
 to persuade the insurgents to desist from their fratricidal 
 struggle. (1) In the centre of the place, the construction of a 
 fountain was begun, by order of Napoleon, but was afterwards 
 abandoned. (2) On the site of this fountain now stands the 
 
 (1) On June 25, 1848, the archbishop, justly grieved on accoun 
 of the bloody conflict which had been for the last three days 
 spreading desolation throughout the metropolis, proceeded, 
 with General Cavaignac’s consent, to the Place de la Bastille, and, 
 after obtaining from Gen. Perot an hour’s cessation of hostilities, 
 advanced towards the barricade preceded by a young man car- 
 rying a green branch before him in token of peace. At his 
 approach, the insurgents stopped their fire, and appeared to 
 listen attentively fo the words of the apostle of peace, when, 
 by some unfortunate misunderstanding, the fire recommenced, 
 and the archbishop was struck by a ball. The insurgents instantly 
 carried him to the hospice of the Quinze-Vingts, loudly declar- 
 ing thiit they were innocent of the act. The extraction of the 
 hall was impossible, and the high-minded prelate died on the 
 following day. His last words were : “ May my blood be the 
 last spilt in civil war I” The Constituent Assembly decreed that 
 a monument should he erected to Ids memory in the cathedral 
 of Notre Dame. 
 
 ( 2 ) According to the design presented by Denon, an arch over 
 the Canal St. Martin was to hear a bronze elephant more than 
 72 feet high, including the tower on its hack ; the water Avas to 
 issue from the trunk, and a staircase leading to the tower was 
 fo he constructed in one of its legs. A small model of this ele- 
 phant is preserved at ihe Palais des Beaux Arts. 
 
28-2 NIiNTII WALK. 
 
 Column of July, its pedestal standing immediately on a 
 basement of white marble, supported by blocks of granite. 
 The foundations were laid by Louis Philippe, July 28, 1831 ! 
 On the western side of the pedestal is figured, in hold relief, a 
 lion passant, and undernealh the following inscription : ^ 
 
 •A la gloire cles Citoyens Fran^ais, qui s’armferent et combat- 
 tirent pour la rteCense des liberies publiques dans les memoi’ables 
 journdes des 27, 28 , 29 Juillet i 830 . 
 
 On the opposite side is the date of the laws decreeing the mo- 
 nument, and the other two sides hear the dates of tlie 27th, 
 2 8th, and 29th July. At the corners of the pedestal is the 
 Gallic cock hearing an oaken wreath in its claws. The shaft 
 of tlie pillar is partly fluted, and partly encircled Avith bands 
 liearing lions’ liemls, whose open mouths admit light and air 
 to the staircase within. Thespaces into Avhicli these bands divide 
 the column are filled with the names of :>04 patriots killed 
 din ing the Three Days of 1830. The Corinthian capital, over 
 which is a railed gallery, is 1 ay, feet wide, and ornamented 
 AVith lions’ heads, genii bearing gaiJands, 8cc. Surmounting 
 tlie capital is a gilt globe, and on it stands a colossal figure, 
 gilt also, representing the “Genius ofLibeity,” in its right 
 hand is a torch, in its left a broken chain ; it stands on one 
 foot, Avith Avings expanded, as if in the act of taking flight, 
 llic height of the column, Avhich is of the Composite order, 
 is about 134 feet, the diameter 12 feet; weight of metal em- 
 ployed 103,283 lb.; it cost about 1,224,098 fr. Unlike the 
 column in the Place Vendome, the metallic cylinders of which 
 it is composed are not supported by masonry Avithiii; the 
 staircase, therefore, vibrates perceptibly to every Mast of 
 wind. This monument Avas designed by Alavoine and exe- 
 cuted by M. Due. It was inaugurated Avith great ceremony 
 on July 28, 1840, Avhen the remains of the victims of 1830 
 were deposited in the vaults underneath. In the marble base- 
 ment is a circular corridor, paved Avith white marble, relieved 
 Avith stai’s and crosses of black marble, and lighted by win- 
 doAA's of stained glass. Descending a few steps, are the sepul- 
 chral Abaults, secured by four cast-iron doors, ornamented Avith 
 rich tracery. Each vault contains a vast sarcophagus 14 yards 
 in length, 1 in width, and 1 deep. Most of the combatants 
 who fell m February 1 81 8 were also transferred here. Around 
 the base of the pedestal is an enclosure flagged Avitli marble, 
 and protected by a massive iron railing. The throne of Louis 
 Philippe Avas burnt here by the mob on the 24th of February 
 184 8. The vicAV from the top of the column is vei y fine. A 
 -mall gratuity to the kecfiers is expected. 
 
 The Place de la Bastille presents several points of interest. 
 
IlOPITAL STE. EUGENIE. 283 
 
 At the entrance of the rue St. Antoine there formerly stood 
 a triumphal arch, demolished in 17 89. The corner-house, 
 No. 1, of the rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, was inhabited 
 by Pepin, who was executed as one of Fieschi’s accomplices 
 in his attempt against the life of Louis Philippe in 1835. 
 The fine boulevard formed over the Canal St. Martin (see p. 
 27 5) may here be taken in at one view ; the new terminus 
 of the Vincennes railway, an elegant building, stands opposite, 
 and on another side the Boulevard Beaumarchais commences 
 the series of the interior boulevards. Here, too, is the small 
 Tkeut.e ncuumcu'chais (see p. 471), opposite the site of the 
 house where the celebrated dramatist lived. 
 
 Entering the rue de Charenton, we find at No. 28 the 
 Hospice des Quinze-Vingts. — This hospital for the blind 
 was founded by St. Louis in 12 GO, at the corner of the rue 
 St. Nicaise, and was removed to the Hotel des Mousquetaires 
 Noirs, in 1779, by Cardinal de Rohan. In 17 89 part of its 
 property was confiscated, but was restored in 1814 (seep. 121). 
 in the second court of the house adjoining. No. 2 0, is 
 St. Antoine, the chapel of the Hospice. It was built in 
 1701, and annexed to the parish of Ste. Marguerite in 1802. 
 It contains St. Louis receiving the Sacrament, byCassies, the 
 Entombment of Christ, by Jollivet, a Descent from the Cross, 
 a Resurrection, in grisaille, and a good altar-y)iece of St. An- 
 thony performing the ceremony of marriage. Higlier up is tlie 
 IlopiTAL Ste. Eugenie, a building formerly connected with 
 the establishment of tlie Enfants Assistes (see p. 119). It 
 was founded in 1600 by the l)Ounty of M. Aligre and his lady, 
 and was afterwards used as a supplementary hospital annexed 
 to the lldtel Dieu, ]}ut is now devoted to the reception of sick 
 cliildren, under the patronage of the Empress (see p. 141). 
 Strangers are admitted on Sundays and Thursdays from 1 2 to 3 . 
 It has another entrance in the rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, at 
 No. 124, opening into a court, at the further end of which is 
 the private chapel of the hospital, a cruciform building, of 
 Doric design, to which, however, the public are not admitted. 
 
 The Rue de Charenton possesses a melancholy celebrity 
 from the massacre of several hundred protestants of all ages 
 and both sexes. Sept. 28, 1021. They were attacked and mur- 
 dered by a party of foot-men, pages, and porters, while 
 coming from a new protestant church they had had built at 
 Charenton. The perpetrators of this crime went unpunished. 
 The street at that time bore the name of me de la Vlunehellc, 
 
284 
 
 TENTH WALK. 
 
 TEITTH ITALZ. 
 
 This lies within the tth arrondisscment, the most conspi- 
 cuous object of which is the ^ 
 
 Hotel de Ville, Place de I’Hotel de Ville.— In the earliest 
 reigns of the third race, the meetings of the corps de ville or 
 municipality were held in a house called la Matson de la 
 Marchandise, situated in the Vallee de la Misere, west of the 
 Grand Chatelet. They subsequently met near the Place St. 
 Michel, in a honse called the Parlouer mix Bourgeois. In 
 1357 the municipality purchased, for 2880 livres de Paris, the 
 Maison de la Greve. or Matson aux Piliers, which had for- 
 merly belonged to Philip Augustus, and was frequently the 
 abode of royalty. Upon the site of this the Hotel de Ville was 
 erected. The first stone was laid July 15, 1533, by Pierre de 
 Vide, prevot des marchands, but the works were afterwards 
 suspended, until 1549, when Dominic Boccadoro, of Cortona, 
 resumed them after a plan of his own (1). During the war of 
 the Fronde, and still more during the revolution of 17 89, the 
 edifice was much damaged ; it was, however, preserved from 
 further dilapidation in 1801, by being converted into the seat of 
 the prefecture, and was repaired by Molinos. In 1837 it re- 
 ceived immense additions, so as to render it nearly four times 
 larger than it was before. The works were finished in 1841. 
 
 Exterior .—The Hotel de Ville consisted in 1628 of a beau- 
 tiful large building, in the style of the Renaissance, two stories 
 high, enclosing a single court, and having its western front 
 towards the Place de Greve, with two elevated pavilions at the 
 northern and southern extremities, each flanked by an elegant 
 square overhanging tower. The old buildings occupy the 
 centre of the present edifice, which has cost 15.000,000 fr. 
 Each pavilion has a wide archway ; a range of windows with 
 pediments, between small Corinthian columns, tights the ground 
 floor; above is a long range of plainer windows, and niches 
 filled with statues (2), the whole surmounted by a rich balus- 
 trade. In the centre of the roof rises an elegant companile 
 of recent construction. The clock marks the time of the 
 Observatory, communicated to it by electricity. Over the 
 
 (U The key-slone of a vault in the left portico of the central 
 court bears an inscripfion staling that Marinus de la Vallee un- 
 dertook the continuation of it in leoe, and finished it in i628. 
 Another inscription over the central gale (inside) shows tiiat the 
 central pavilion and heifry were finished in leos. 
 
 (2) Those facing the Place de I'Hofel de Ville ave— Southern pev- 
 
tlOtEL DE VILEE. 286 
 
 eehtral door-way there is a bronze equestrian bas-relief of 
 Henry IV., replacing one destroyed in 1789. The northern and 
 southern facades are flanked by the extreme pavilions of the 
 principal and eastern fronts. The eastern facade has 4 pavi- 
 lions, with a central body adorned with 14 detached Corin- 
 thian columns ; the intermediate pavilions have noble entrances, 
 with Doric vestibules leading into the 
 
 Courts. — This vast edifice comprises three courts, two late- 
 ral ones, of Corinthian and Composite architecture, and the 
 central and most ancient one, which is approached from the 
 western front by a flight of steps ; ( 1 ) an Ionic arcade runs all 
 around it; under it, to the left on entering, is a fine full-length 
 bronze statue of Louis XIV., by Coysevox, with bas-reliefs re- 
 presenting Charity and Divine Vengeance, and adjoining is a 
 flight of steps descending into the northern court. To the right 
 is a statue of Charlemagne. (2) The lucarnes of this court are 
 very beautiful and light. The western corners of the court are 
 flanked by two engaged circular towers ending in lucarnes 
 similar to the rest. The whole is roofed over with glass, and 
 is sumptuously decorated with stucco and gilding, besides 
 medallions in terra cotta, in the style of Luca della Robbia, 
 representing Art, Glory, Peace, etc. The most remarkable 
 object here is an elliptical double-branched staircase rising to 
 the first story. Originally a mere provisional construction 
 executed for the hall given to Queen Victoria on the 23d of 
 August, 1855, it has now been rebuilt of stone and decorated 
 with the most elaborate sculpture in the style of the Renais- 
 sance. Under the arches supporting the stairs, a fountain 
 
 vilion: Condorcet, Lafayette, Colbert, Catinat, Moli^re, Boileau, 
 Lavoisier, De La Reynie, and J. A. De Thou. Central part: Fro- 
 chot, S. Bailly, L. Turgot, Abb6 de l’Ep6e, Rollin, Mathieu Mold, 
 J. Aubry, Robert Etienne, F. Miron, Rudd, Lallier, De Yiole, Ju- 
 ■\e.ial des Ursins, Sully, Landry, Aubriot, Boyleaux, Jean Goujon, 
 P. Lescot, Goslin, Philippe Delorme, De La Vacquerie, St. Vincent 
 de Paule, Lesuenr, Lebrun, Mansard, Voyer d’Argenson, and Per- 
 rone. Northern pavilion : A. J. Gros, Bulfon, A. de Harlay, 
 Monge, Monlhyon, Voltaire, D’Alembert, A. Pard, and Papin. The 
 statues on the attics of the other sides represent Justice, Com- 
 merce, the Muses, &c. 
 
 (i) On the flight of stairs under this door-way, M. de Lamar- 
 tine exposed his life with admirable courage on February 26, 
 1 848, by declaring to an infuriated mob, that, as long as he lived, 
 the red flag should not he the flag of France. 
 
 (2 ) Around the frieze of this court were marble tablets, inscribed 
 with the principal events of the life of Louis XIV. from i659 to 
 1689 , and circular compartments in the spandrils of the arches 
 were charared with the bas-relief portraits of several Prevbts. 
 
286 TENTH WALK. 
 
 composed of four genii supporting a tazza delivers its water 
 into a spacious basin underneath, enlivened with genii in the 
 act of swimming, 6cc., executed in wliite marble. On State 
 occasions, this basin is bordered with rare exotics, and tlie 
 splendid illumination and profuse decoration of this court 
 render it a delightful appendage of the ball-room (see p. 288). 
 
 The Salle du Trdne. — The staircase to the right of the en- 
 trance-passage leads to the landing-place on the first story, 
 remarkable for a curiously ribbed vault, a monument of the 
 age of Henry II. From this the Salle des Huissiers opens into 
 the Salle du Trdne, occupying the whole length of the old 
 portion of the building, a most magnificent apartment. It is 
 94 feet by 3G, with an altitude of 2 5 feet. The walls are 
 adorned with velvet hangings, trimmed with gold. Two vast 
 chimney-pieces, ornamented with recumbent statues of white 
 marble, sculptured under Henry IV. by Biard and Bodin, oc- 
 cupy the extremities. Over one of them are, richly executed, 
 the arms of the City, being gules, a ship argent. The square 
 compartments of the ceiling arc charged with armorial bearings, 
 and over the doors are allegorical paintings of Justice, Pru- 
 dence, Labour, and Concord. Opposite the windows are four 
 paintings by Sechan, representing the personification of Paris 
 in the 5th, i2th, 17th, and 19th centuries. This Salle is used 
 for official banquets, and will conveniently hold 200 guests. (1) 
 Adjoining this are the Salle du Zodiaque, with carvings on 
 the wainscoting, by Jean Goujon, and the Salon du Vote,. 
 with a ceiling painted by Schopin, representing the cities of 
 France accepting the present Empire by 7,500,000 votes. 
 These rooms are not public. A corridor to the right of the 
 staircase leads to the Salle du Conseil, now called Salon Vic- 
 toria, an elegant chamber, 66 feet by 37, with blue and gold 
 hangings, adorned with busts of Queen Victoria and the Prince 
 Consort, presented to the City by those august personages. 
 The 08 councillors meet here. We now conae to the 
 
 State Apartments. — From the same staircase, a Corinthian 
 gallery, elegantly fitted up, leads to the landing-place of the 
 principal staircase of the Biver front, having three Bights of 
 steps, supported by Ionic columns, and ornamented with bas- 
 reliefs by MM. Debau andBriou. Here is an equestrian statue 
 
 (1) The most interesting recollections are coimected with this 
 fine monument ot the 16th century. From the central ^Yinclow 
 Louis XVI. harangued the populace with tlie cap of liberly on his 
 head, and General Lafayette presented Louis Philippe to the 
 people in i83o. This is also the room where Robespierre held 
 his council, and where he attempted to destroy himself on the 
 memorable 27th of July, 1794 . 
 
HOTEL DE VILLE. 
 
 287 
 
 of Henry IV., in bronze, a eopy of that on the Pont Neuf, by 
 Lemot (1818). An antechamber with Flemish gilt leather 
 hangings commences the suite ; it is only remarkable for a 
 bronze statue by Bosio of Henry IV. in his youth. Next is 
 the Salle d’ Introduction ; its frieze is painted in araliesques 
 by Court. The Salle de Jen, adorned with blue silk 
 hangings, and a rich ceiling and frieze painted by Lacliaise, 
 leads to the Salon des Arcades, a magnificent saloon, 70 
 feet by 40, and 22 feet in height, trisected by two rows 
 of three lofty arches eacli, and furnished in a style of the 
 most luxurious splendour. (1) It is of the Corinthian order, 
 with gilt capitals and cornice; the central ceiling ornamented 
 with a large allegorical painting by Picot, representing Paris 
 rewarding the Muses and the attributes of art; in the back- 
 ground is an assembly of the most eminent men of France. 
 This painting is surrounded by ten hexagonal compaiTments 
 charged with allegorical figures representing Theology, Me- 
 dicine, Mechanics, Agriculture, Law, Commerce, Natural Phi- 
 losophy, Chemistry, Justice, and Geometry. In the first sec- 
 tion of this splendid chamber the compartments of the ceiling 
 are charged with the signs of the Zodiac, and allegories of Night 
 and Day, by Schopin. The grounds of the arches of the doors 
 are painted with medallions, severally representing Francis I. 
 and Henry IV. The ceiling of the extreme section, by Vau- 
 chelet, is painted with genii holding scrolls with the names of 
 the most famous artists known ; the two central compartments 
 represent Truth and Genius; the medallions over the doors here 
 contain Louis XIV. and Louis Philippe; the latter however is 
 considerably damaged. The walls are painted in elaborate ara- 
 besques. In the centre is a circular divan, in which is a gill 
 pedestal of bronze, supporting the figures of Agriculture, Com- 
 merce, and the Fine Arts. Gilt vases and chandeliers of ex- 
 quisite workmanship adorn the mantel-pieces. It was here the 
 Provisional Government first installed itself in 1848. Beyond 
 this room is that for refreshments, called the Salon de Cafe, 
 painted by Vauchelet. To it succeeds a spacious dining-room, 
 with an ornamental frieze, containing subjects appertaining to 
 the chase, the fisheries, &c., hy Jadin. It will hold 150 
 guests. The visitor is now ushered into the suite specially 
 destined for grand occasions, where he will remark a degree 
 of splendour and taste unequalled by any palace in Paris, 
 the Tuileries not exeepted. The centre of tliis suite is 
 occupied by the Grande Galerie des Files, with three 
 (i) During the winter season the Prefect of the Seine gives some 
 Splendid lialls, invitations to which may l)c obtained through the 
 clianncl of the Ambassador, or of persons already presented. 
 
288 TENTH VVALt. 
 
 spacious rooms al each end, a faint descriptioti of which 
 we will now attempt in their regular order;— i. Salon 
 Napoleon ler. The ceiling and walls of this, ai of all 
 the following rooms, are gorgeously gilt on a white gu’ound ; 
 the order is Ionic, the furniture green damask interspersed with 
 bees. Oyer the mantelpiece is a full-length picture of Napo- 
 leon I. in his coronation robes, by Girard. The central 
 space of the ceiling of this room is painted by M. Ingres, the 
 subject being the Apotheosis of Napoleon ; the compartments 
 represent the cities conquered by him. — 2. First Salon des 
 Arts. Rich Corinthian, with niches, containing mythological 
 statues. In the tympans over the entrances are Painting, 
 Poetry, and Music, frescos, by Landelle.— 3. First Salle 
 des^ Prevdts, to the left ; so called from the busts of the 
 Prevots des Marchands which occupy the spaces between 
 the modillions of the cornice ; the series, which begins 
 yvith Evreux, under St. Louis, in the year 1203, is continued 
 in another room of the same name, and ends with Trudaine, 
 177 2. The ceiling is by Ricsener , and represents Repose after 
 Anarchy. — 4. Grande Galen e des F4tes. Thisimmense saloon, 
 separated from tl*e first and second Salon des Arts by two trans- 
 verse arcades, the gilt cupolas of which support the orchestras, 
 has a magical effect. The spectator is bewildered by a profuse- 
 ness of decoration of every kind that baffles description. The 
 Corinthian columns, with their gilt bases and capitals, the deli- 
 cate sculpture and gilding of the compartments of the ceiling, 
 the coves, painted by Lehmann, representing, in their penden- 
 tives, man exercising his activity and talent overNature, Science, 
 and Art, illustrated by l8o full-sized figures in 5G groups, in- 
 dependently of the minor subjects over the windows, the rich 
 chandeliers and costly furniture, form a unique ensemble of 
 taste and art. Each of its 26 lustres will hold 105 wax lights. 
 Communicating with this salle by open arches in the coves 
 of the ceiling, there is a gallery, decorated with equal minute- 
 ness, where, on festive nights, the guests may witness the 
 brilliant scene without mixing among the dancers below. In 
 the centre of the left-hand wall, three doors open into — 5 . 
 The Salle des Caryatides, a splendid Corinthian refreshment 
 room, with a gallery above, forming part of the one above 
 mentioned. Fourteen graceful caryatides support the ceiling, 
 painted in perspective, by Cosse ; the tympans over the doors 
 below, painted by Benouville, represent Agriculture, Abun- 
 dance, Astronomy, and the four Seasons. Two Ionic pas- 
 sages, with elegant seats, and running parallel to the Galerie 
 des F4tes, communicate with the staircase, thus procuring a 
 free circulation of air. Here a door in the centre opens upon the 
 
 
 I 
 
MOTEL DE VILLE. 289 
 
 double-branched staircase leading to the court (see p. 283). 
 Let the visitor picture to himself this beautiful hall (for such 
 it must be called,) illumined with floods of light streaming 
 from hundreds of tapers arranged in graceful symmetry around, 
 clustered in cornucopias held by Cupids ; or crowning the 
 lustres depending from the ceiling ; elegant fountains playing 
 under the arch which supports the stairs, and forming minia- 
 ture cascades which, rushing through the artificial channels 
 left between the costly flowers thickly planted around, find 
 their way into the grottos beneath, where lovely genii are seen 
 sporting in the cool waters, or peeping from behind the ever- 
 greens; let him imagine this scene ingeniously diversified in 
 the other gorgeous apartments already desci ibed, the whole 
 enlivened by all the wealth, beauty, and fashion the capital 
 can muster, and he will come to the conviction that the fairy 
 dreams of the Arabian Nights may fall far short of reality. (1) At 
 the furthermost end of the Galerie des Fites is — 6. The second 
 Salon des Arts, being a counterpart of the one already de- 
 scribed at the other extremity. This gives access to — 7. 
 Salon de la Paix similar to the Salon Napoleon, painted by 
 M. Eugene Delacroix. The second Salon des Arts also commu- 
 nicates with — 8. The second Salle des Prevdts, the ceiling of 
 which, painted by Muller, represents the communes of France 
 expressing their gratitude to Louis le Gros for breaking their 
 chains. — From this room, or from its counterpart on the oppo- 
 site side, the visitor descends by the superb double-branched 
 staircase, crowned with the galleries already mentioned, sup- 
 porting its richly sculptured ceiling pierced with skylights (the 
 subjects of which, in stained glass, are allegorical of convi- 
 vial pleasures), into the Doric vestibule communicating with 
 the central court. The architect of these more than regal apart- 
 ments of the Civic Prince of Paris is M. Lesueur. 
 
 On the ground-floor, below the Galerie des Fites, is a large 
 saloon of the Doric order, called the Salle St. Jean. It is 
 used for civic purposes, public meetings of literary societies, 
 etc. The offices occupy the rest of the building. Underneath 
 are the kitchens, sufficient to provide a banquet for a thousand 
 guests. The Hotel de Ville when completed, will contain 
 upwards of 300 statues, busts, and medallions. (2) Architects: 
 
 (t) Upwards of 7000 visitors have .sometimes been admitted to 
 tlie City balls; the rooms, forming a circuit of upwards of half a 
 mile, require 9714 tapers, and 2389 gas-burners, for their full 
 complement of illumination. Ihe present King of Italy was en- 
 tertained here in 1855 ; the Grand Duke Constantine and the 
 King of Bavaria, in 1857 . 
 
 ( 2 ) Tlie offices occupy 171 rooms. The clerks number 418. 
 
 19 
 
TENTH WALK. 
 
 290 
 
 1\1M. Godde and Lesueur. The apartments are visible on 
 Thursdays from 12 to 4, with a ticket to be had on application 
 by letter to M. le Prefet da la Seine. 
 
 On the fourth story of the north-east side of the Hotel de 
 Ville, is the Bibliotheque de la Vtlle, established since June 
 18, 1 847 . It occupies three rooms, including the reading-room, 
 and three galleries, the largest of which is 120 feet long. It is 
 rich in scientific and commercial works, in foreign publications, 
 and works on the municipal history of the cities of France. 
 
 It also possesses, in a separate room, 6000 volumes of official 
 American publications, and 300 manuscript volumes of the 
 registers of the Parlement qf Paris. The total number of vo- 
 lurnes is above 65,000. At the top of the staircase leading to 
 the upper gallery a head of Cybele, found in 1657 near the 
 churph of St. Eustache, and evidently Boman, is worthy of 
 notice. Open daily, from 10 to 3, except on holidays. ; 
 
 The Place de l’IIotel de Ville, formerly Place de Greve, j, 
 has been the scene of most of the public “ deeds of blood” that | 
 have occurred in the capital. Once the place of execution for 
 criminals, it has also been stained with the blood of the 
 victims of revolution. (1) Facing the Hotel de Ville on 
 this square there are two new buildings, designed by M. 
 Baltard : the northern one containing offices belonging to the 
 Municipality ; the southern one the offices of the Administra- 
 tion de V Assistance Publique. These two edifices are exact 
 counterparts of each other ; they have three stories resting on 
 arcaded basements; all the roofing is of iron. 
 
 Behind the Hotel de Ville are two vast barracks ; the larger, 
 called Caserne Napoleon, is built for 2,500 men, and is of an 
 irregular pentagonal form ; its architecture is Ionic, and its 
 pediments are charged with eagles and trophies. It occu- 
 pies 8,000 sq. metres, and is connected with the Hotel de Ville 
 by a subterranean passage. The other. Caserne de Lobau, is 
 its counterpart, except in size, and contains 500 cavalry of 
 the Garde de Paris. Behind the former barracks the Mairie 
 of the 4th arrondissement has been erected, opposite which 
 we see the church of 
 
 St. Gervais, — inaugurated in 1420, and enlarged in 1581. 
 Over the northern aisle of the choir rises a tower about 130 
 feet high, the lower part of which is of ancient, the upper of 
 modern, construction. The western front of St. Gervais was be- 
 gun in 1 616 by Desbrosses, Louis XIII. laying the first stone. It 
 
 (I) Among the persons of note executed here there were the 
 Conn^table de St. Pol, the Count de Monfgommeri (see p. 169 n.). 
 Marshal Marillac, Ravaillac, the Mardchale d’Ancre, the Mar- 
 quise de Brinvilliers, Cartouche, and Damiens. On March 17 fh, 
 
ST. GERA^AIS* 291 
 
 consists of three ranges of coupled columns, successively of 
 the Doric., Ionic, and Corinthian orders, with niches, con- 
 taining the statues of St. Protasius and St. Gcrvais, and crowned 
 with a segmental pediment flanked with the statues of Moses 
 and St. John. The rest of the church is Gothic, and cruci- 
 form, with single aisles. The works of art in this church, be- 
 ginning from the riglit on entering, are : facing the aisle, a 
 copy of Rubens’s Descent from the Cross, which adorns the 
 Cathedral of Antwerp, by Morain ; 1st chapel: Ste.Philomene, 
 by Smith ; three medallions on each side, with passages from her 
 life. Above is a good Crucifixion. 2d. A curious picture, of the 
 17 th century, of the Deliverance of Souls from Purgatory at tlie 
 intercession of St. Gervais. .3d. The statue of St. Catherine, 
 by Cortot, in marble ; a painting, by Vibert, of the Virgin 
 blessing France, and a St. Nicholas, also repeated in the win- 
 dow, in good old stained glass. 4th. South transept: the 
 Tongues of Fire ; also St. Ambrose refusing entrance to 
 Theodosius, by Couder ; statues of the Virgin, Religion 
 and Faith, by Rude. 5th. A fine Ecce Homo, by Rou- 
 get, and Christ giving St. Peter the Keys, by Jonquieres. The 
 stained glass in the window, representing the apostle Paul before 
 Festus, is by Pinaigrier. (ith. A fine Decapitation of St. John 
 the Baptist, in the style of Guercino. The glass in the window, 
 by Pinaigrier, represents the Judgment of Solomon. 7lh. Ste. 
 Genevieve consoling an afflicted woman, and Jesus with Martha 
 and Mary, by Philippe de Champagne. 8th. A monument to 
 Chancellor Letellier (1685), a sarcophagus of black marble, 
 supported by colossal white marble heads ; at the ends are 
 beautiful full-sized figures of Religion and Fortitude ; the chan- 
 cellor reclines on the sarcophagus, with a genius weeping at his 
 feet. There is also a spirited plaster Descent from the Cross, an 
 Ecce Homo, sculptured by Cortot, and the Good Samaritan, 
 painted by Forestier. 9th. The Lady Chapel behind the apsis 
 of the choir is one of the most beautiful in Paris ; the vaulting 
 ribs of its roof unite in two different points, from the 
 first of which they descend in a clustered pendant, and 
 
 1848, a monster manifestation too1< place here in support of the 
 Provisional Government, and on April 4 6th following an attempt 
 to overthrow that Government was foiled by the steady attitude 
 of the National Guard. The new houses facing the Seine occupy 
 the site of many a historical building, among which Ave may 
 mention the Hotel do Sicile or d’Anjou, inhabited in the i4tli 
 century by Louis II., duke of Anjou, and king of Naples, Sicily, 
 and Aragon; Iavo hotels, the pi'operty of Jacques de Bourbon, 
 constable of France, and inhabited, in i39i, by Blanche de 
 Navarre; and a turreted house inhabited by Scarron and Mine, 
 de Maintenon, on the site of the present Cafe de la Tourelle, 
 
292 lENTH WALk. | 
 
 from the other in an elaborate open-worked crown a | 
 
 chef-d’oeuvre l)otli in design and workmanship. Around it I 
 is an inscription, partly ancient, thus : parfaite en Van ' 
 
 U 11 , point e en 1842. The three front windows to the east 
 are filled witli some rieh specimens of stained glass by Pi- 
 naigrier, representing the histories of Ste. Anne and the Virgin. 
 
 A splendid Gothic altar of modern execution, adorned witli a 
 statue of the Virgin, and four smaller statues of the Evangelists, 
 face the entrance. The decoration of the chapel is the conjoint 
 work of Messrs. Baltard, architect, and Delorme, painter ; 14 oil 
 paintings on the walls are by the latter ; those in the nave of i 
 the chapel represent the epochs of happiness of the Virgin’s life ; 
 the Annunciation, Visitation, Maternity, and Assumption. In the 
 sanctuary of the chapel are the eight Christian virtues. Resig- 
 nation, Fortitude, Repentance, Justice, Charity, Hope, Truth, 
 and Humility. In the following vestibule, Jesus walking on 
 the Waves, by Dubusc. loth chapel; St. Margaret of Scot- 
 land washing the feet of the poor, byGassies; Moses smiting 
 the rock, by Guichard. Adjoining it is the captivity of St. Peter, 
 by Heim. 1 ith. North transept ; the Martyrdom of Ste. Jnliette 
 and her son St. Cyr, by Heim ; also a picture by Albert Durer, 
 of the nine sufferings of Christ, dated 1500 ; it is concealed by 
 curtains, but is readily shown to visitors for a small fee. 12th. 
 Christ at the Feast of Cana, by Jouvenet. Here, upon applica- 
 tion, the visitor is introduced into a private oratory, the wains- 
 coting of which is painted in the richest style by the elder 
 Francks, a Dutch master of the 1 6th century ; the subjects 
 comprise the whole history of our Saviour’s Life, Death, and 
 Resurrection. 14th. A model in wood of the western front 
 of the church, serving as an altar-piece; 15th. the Bap- 
 tism of Christ, and the Fall of Man, by M. Caminade. In the 
 window are St. JohntheBaptistand St. Nicholas in stained glass, 
 bearing date 1 620. Facing the aisle is an exhumation of St. Pet- 
 ronilla, by Guercino. The modern stained glass in the choir has 
 been executed after the designs of Eugene Delacroix. Above the 
 sereen opposite the pulpit, is the Eternal .Father surrounded by 
 angels, by Perugino. Paul Scarron, the husband of Mme. de 
 Maintenon, Philippe de Champagne, and many other distin- 
 guished persons, were buried in this church. 
 
 Striking into the rue de Jouy, east of this, the visitor will 
 bid adieu to the modern rue de Rivoli to plunge into one of 
 the oldest quarters of Paris. (1) At No. 7, he will find the 
 
 (l) Most of ihe houses of this locality suffered greatly from the 
 effects of arlillery in the days of June 1848, the insurgents liaving 
 transtormed this quarter into an all but impregnable stronghold 
 l)y the scientitic arrangement of Iheir Ijarricades. 
 
ST. PAUL ET ST. LOUIS. 293 
 
 H6tel d’Aumont, built by Mansard ; and further on the rue 
 Charlemagne, where, at No. 14, the Passage Charlemagne 
 crosses the court of the Hdtel de Jassaud, or d’Aguesseau, 
 once the site of a palace. An octagonal engaged tower of the 
 time of Francis I. is still to be seen in a corner of the court, 
 which has coupled Ionic pilasters running round, and some 
 ornaments indicating its former state. 
 
 This passage leads to the rue St. Antoine ; at No. 120, is the 
 
 Lycee Charlemagne, the building of which belonged'to the 
 college of Jesuits founded in 1582. Adjoining this we see the 
 elegant church of 
 
 St. Paul et St. Louis, — begun in 1627, on the site of a 
 chapel belonging to the adjoining convent of the Jesuits, founded 
 by Cardinal de Bourbon in 1582. It was finished in 1641, 
 aud Cardinal Richelieu performed the first mass in it in the 
 presence of Louis Xlll. and his court. This magnificentfront 
 is approached by a flight of steps; it is 144 feet high, and 7 2 
 broad at the base, and has three ranges of Corinthian and Com- 
 posite columns. Interior . — This structure is cruciform, with 
 chapels on each side of the nave, communicating with each 
 other. Over the transepts of the church rises a lofty dome, 
 in the pendentives of which are sculptured figures of the evan- 
 gelists ; and, above, four figures in grisaille of Charlemagne, 
 Clovis, Robert, and St. Louis. A rich cornice and gallery 
 surmount the Corinthian pilasters which stand in front of 
 each pier. Inis church was pillaged of all its riches at the 
 revolution of 1789 ; but a profusion of marble is still to be 
 seen on the high altar, and round the door-ways ; the rails, 
 too, which separate the high altar from the nave, are of black 
 and red marble. The works of art, beginning from the left on 
 entering, are, 1st chapel ; a Holy Family. 2d. St. Louis pray- 
 ing, by Reason. 3d. St. Mary Magdalen, by Lefebvre. 4th. 
 Christ offering his Heart. 5th. Eastern transept: a black 
 marble slab to the memory of Bourdaloue, buried on the 
 spot. Above the arches are two paintings, viz., the Agony in 
 the Garden, by Delacroix, and the Conversion of St. Paul, by 
 Chautard. 6th. A good Mater Dolorosa in marble. There are 
 four frescoes, by Decaisne, on the walls of the choir, representing 
 the four evangelists. On the piers of the arches opening into 
 the choir, on both sides are black marble slabs with inscrip- 
 tions, showing that the hearts of Louis XlII. and XIV. were 
 deposited here, and that Anne of Austria and the Duke Regent 
 of Orleans severally caused these inscriptions to be placed. 
 
 7 th chapel (right side) -. the statue of St. Vincent de Panic. 8th. 
 Western transept : Paintings of Moses and the brazen serpent, 
 and Louis XIII. offering St. Louis the dedication oi this ehtfre^ 
 
294 TENTH WALK. 
 
 9th. St. Isabelle, sister of St. Louis, offering a church to the 
 Virgin, by Philippe de Champagne. 10 th. St. Jerome, by Le- 
 febvre. 1 Ith. St. Peter administering Baptism, by Latil, and 
 an excellent old Holy Family; and 12th. The Baptism of 
 Christ. Beyond the church is the sacristy, containing some 
 good paintings, portraits of the successive cures of the church ; 
 and further on is the chapel of the catechists, ending in a cir- 
 cular recess, painted on a ground rendered impenetrable to 
 moisture, by Valbrun, representing Christ calling the children 
 unto him. The architect of this magnificent church was Father 
 Derrand, a Jesuit. 
 
 At No. 143, in the rue St. Antoine, is the 
 
 Hotel de Sully. — This edifice is remarkable as the work 
 of Ducerceau, and the residence of the celebrated minister 
 whose name it bears. It is in good preservation, and its 
 court, which is large, is richly adorned with sculpture. 
 
 At No. 212, the boarding-school of M. Favard, is a good 
 specimen of the age of Henry IV. At No. 216 his is 
 
 La Visitation, a small Calvinist church built by F. Man- 
 sard, in 1632, for the Dames de la Visitation. — The dome 
 rests on four arches, between which are Corinthian pilasters 
 crowned with a cornice. The porch is accessible by steps. 
 The interior is adorned with scroll work, wreaths of flowers, 
 &c., but contains no pictures. Fouquet was buried here in 
 1680. Service is performed here in French by the pastors of 
 the Oratoire, on Sundays and festivals, at 12 / 2 . The convent, 
 destroyed in the revolution of 17 89, was very extensive. 
 
 The rue Castex and rue de la Cerisaie lead to the 
 
 Government Dep6t des Poudres et Salpdtres. Percussion 
 caps are manufactured here for the use of the army. 
 
 The rue Delorme leads hence to the 
 
 Gkenier de Reserve, situated on the Boulevard Bourdon. 
 — This immense storehouse was begun by order of Napoleon, 
 in 1807, as a depot for the grain and flour required for four 
 months’ consumption of the city, and completed in 1816. 
 It is 2,160 feet in length by 64 in breadth, and is 32 
 feet high. Beneath is a range of cellars, under which four 
 water-cuts were constructed for the purpose of turning mills. 
 Every baker in Paris is obliged to keep 20 full-sized sacks of 
 flour constantly deposited here, and may warehouse as much 
 in addition as he pleases, on payment of a moderate charge. 
 The building will contain 80,000 sacks; the cellars are used 
 as a supplementary entrepot for wine. For admission, apply at 
 the bureau, in the Place de FArsenal. 
 
 On the adjoining Boulevard Bourdon a ham market or fair 
 is ludd every year just before Easter; it lasts three days. 
 
295 
 
 THE ARSENAL. 
 
 In the rue de Sully is 
 
 The Arsenal. — About 1396, a depot for artillery was built 
 upon this spot, but was destroyed by an explosion in 1563. 
 Charles IX. reconstructed it on a larger scale. Henry IV. in- 
 creased it, and created the office of grand-master of the artillery, 
 in favour of Sully. The valuable library, called Bibliotheque 
 de Paulrmj, originally formed by the Marquis de Paulmy 
 d’Argenson, was deposited here; to this collection were 
 added that of the Duke de la Valliere, and several others, 
 when it took the title of Bibliotheque de I’ Arsenal. During 
 the Restoration it was called Bibliotheque de Monsieur, 
 having been purchased by the Count d’Artois, afterwards 
 Charles X.; but since 1830 it has resumed its appellation 
 de r Arsenal. The entrance is deeorated with a fine haut- 
 relief, representing Victory, by Dantan, senior. This li- 
 brary is rich in history, foreign literature, and poetry, 
 particularly in Italian works; and contains about 300,000 
 printed volumes, and 6,300 manuscripts, among which 
 are some beautiful missals. The ground floor is fitted up with 
 book-cases in two long galleries. The reading-room and firsts 
 floor, were inhabited by Sully, and are shown to strangers 
 on application from 10 to 3. Most of the ceilings are carved, 
 and Sully’s private apartments are richly gilt and painted. 
 In one of the compartments is the portrait of Catherine de 
 Medicis ; in another, the entrance of Henry IV. into Paris. 
 There are also marble busts of Henry IV. and Sully. The 
 library is public from 10 to 3, except on Sundays and holidays. 
 
 Facing the Arsenal is a large building, containing bar- 
 racks for the Line ; it occupies the site of the ancient and 
 once magnificent convent of the Celestius, whose church, 
 built by Charles V., contained a greater number of tombs of 
 illustrious personages than any in Paris. It was celebrated for 
 the chapelle d’Orleans, containing splendid mausoleums ap- 
 propriated to the remains of the brother of Charles VI. and 
 the descendants of the house of Orleans-Longueville. Most of 
 the tombs of the chapel were transported by the patriotic archi- 
 tect, M. Lenoir, to the Musee des Monuments Frangais, rue 
 des Petits Augustins, and two remarkable ones are at the 
 Louvre in the Musee de la Scidpture Moderne. The mortal 
 remains of the Duchess of Bedford, daughter of .lean Sans Peur, 
 buried here in 1432, are now at St. Benigne’s, at Dijon. (J) 
 
 The adjacent Quai Morland formerly gave access by a 
 wooden bridge to a small island called He Louviers containing 
 
 (i) During the demolition of part of the ancient church in May 
 1847, several tombs were discovered, one of which was that of 
 a daughter of King John of England, surnamed Lackland, 
 
296 TENTH WALK. 
 
 wood yards. Here vast store-houses for the city are in course 
 of construction. The lie Louviers communicates with the He 
 St. Louis by the wooden Pont de VEstacade. 
 
 At No. 6, Quai des Celestins, Count Lavalette has partly 
 restored and partly rebuilt a splendid old hotel, the sculptures 
 of which, though chiefly modern, are conceived in the taste 
 of the time of Francis I., and are worthy of inspection. 
 
 At the corner of the rue St. Paul, No. 4, are a few re- 
 mains of the Hdtel de Sr. Paul, long a royal residence ; the 
 greater part is of comparatively late date, and is now occupied 
 by a company for distributing through Paris the filtered water 
 of the Seine. In a long spacious room are placed four rows 
 of charcoal filters, receiving the water from the river, which is 
 drawn up by a steam-engine. The clarified water thus obtained 
 is perfectly sweet and wholesome. Strangers are admitted. 
 
 At the corner of the rue des Lions, in the rue St. Paul, is a 
 small square turret of the age of Henry IV. All the ground 
 between the rue St. Antoine, the moat of the Bastille, the ri- 
 ver, and the rue du Figuier, was formerly occupied by build- 
 ings which Charles V., in 13C0-5, purchased and formed into 
 a palace, the above mentioned H6tel de St. Paul, so called 
 from its proximity to the church. Within the enclosure 
 were several edifices, filenames of which may still be traced in 
 some of the streets built on their site, such as the Hotels de 
 Puteijmuce, de Beautreillis, de Lyons, 8cc. This palace was 
 abandoned by the kings of France for the Palais des Tour- 
 nellcs ; ard, in the 16th century, the buildings were sold. 
 
 By striking into the rue des Barres, the visitor will see be- 
 fore him, at No. 1, rue du Figuier, the 
 
 Hotel de Sens, one of the most interesting remains of the 
 middle ages extant in France. — It was erected in the 1 ath cen- 
 tury, and formed part of the Hotel St. Paul ; Tri4aii de 
 Salazar, Archbishop of Sens, repaired it in 1 581, and Cardinal 
 Duprat, Chancellor of France, enlarged it considerably. Va- 
 rious distinguished personages inhabited it at different times ; 
 among others, Louis de Bourbon, Cardinal de Guise, Bcrtrandi, 
 Keeper of the Seals, and Cardinal Duperon. The gateway, 
 is flanked by two overhanging peaked turrets. High up, to 
 the left, the visitor will see an eight-pounder ball lodged in the 
 old grey wall; underneath is “ 28 Juillet, 1830.” The win- 
 dows are curious ; and there is a remarkable turret in the 
 south-western corner of the court. In the rue de iTlotel de 
 Ville, to the left, is another projecting turret, with quaintly- 
 ornamented windows. This hotel, a model of a noble mansion 
 of its epoch, is still in good preservation, 
 
PONT NEUF. 
 
 297 
 
 ELETEHTH ‘WALK. 
 
 This walk comprises the islands, which lie partly in the 
 4th, and partly in the 6th arrondissement. 
 
 The lie de la Cite was, until 1607, divided into three is- 
 lands, the two smaller ones being the Isle aux Treilles, which 
 commenced at the rue du Harlay, a street occupying the exact 
 site of the arm of the Seine which formed the separation ; and 
 the Isle d la Gourdaine, beginning from the present carriage- 
 way. It was on the latter that the Templars were burnt, in 1314. 
 (see p, 253 n.) The present island is connected with the 
 quays on both sides by the 
 
 Pont Neuf. — This bridge was begun by Ducerceau, under 
 Henry III., who laid the first stone on May 31, 1578, and was 
 finished in 1604, at Henry IV.th’s expense, under the direc- 
 tion of Marchand. It was reconstructed and lowered in 1852. 
 It consists of two parts ; the northern one contains seven cir- 
 cular arches, the southern one only five. Its total length is 
 1020 feet, and its breadth 78; it has semicircular recesses 
 with stone seats, and forty-two ornamental lamp-posts. 
 
 On the square area, at the junction of the two parts of 
 the bridge, a bronze statue of Henry IV. was erected by his 
 widow, Marie de Medicis. Her father, Cosmo de Medicis, had 
 sent her a bronze horse for this purpose, and a figure of the 
 king to suit it was cast in France. This statue was destroyed 
 in 1792 ; and on its site Napoleon intended to erect a magni- 
 ficent granite obelisk of the height of 200 feet, when the events 
 of 1814 put an end to the project. In 1818, the present statue, 
 cast by order of Louis XVHI., and paid for by public sub- 
 scription, was inaugurated with much ceremony. The model 
 was by Lemot, and the statue itself, formed out of several 
 others, including those of Napoleon and Desaix, was cast by 
 Piggiani. Underneath the pedestal was placed a magnificent 
 copy of the Henriade of Voltaire. The height of this beau- 
 tiful statue is 14 feet, its weight 30,000 lb., and it cost 
 337,860 fr. The pedestal, of white marble, is approached by 
 seven steps of the same, running all round, and enclosed by 
 a railing. On the faces are the following inscription : 
 
 Henrici Magni, palernoin populuni aninio natissimi principis, 
 sacram effigiem, civiles inter lumultus, Gallia iiidignante, dejec- 
 fam, post optaUim Ludovici XVHI. reditiim ex omnibus ordini- 
 buscives aere collate resliluerunt. Necnon et elogium cuin effigie 
 simul abolitum lapidi rursus inscribi curaverunl. I). I), die xxv, 
 mens.: Aus. M.D.CCC.XVIH. 
 
298 ELEVENTH WALK, 
 
 Errico IV., Galliarum Imperatori Navar. R. Ludovicos XIII. Fi- 
 lius ejus opus inclioatum et intermissum, pro dignitalt 3 pietatis 
 et imperii plenius et amplius absolvit. Emin. D. C. iRichelius 
 commune votum populi promovit. Super illustr. viri De Bullion, 
 BouUIIier P. oerarii F. faciendum curaverunt M.D.C.XXXV. 
 
 The latter existed on the pedestal of the old statue. The 
 lateral faces have two bronze bas-reliefs ; in one, Henry IV. 
 is seen commanding food to he distributed to the inhabitants 
 of Paris, who, during the siege of the capital, had taten refuge 
 in his camp ; in the other, the king, entering as a conqueror, 
 stops in the Parvis de Notre Dame, and orders the provost of 
 Paris to bear his message of peace to the inhabitants . Behind 
 the statue, a double-branched flight of stairs leads to a floating 
 bathing establishment, and a swimming-school (1). 
 
 From the ]niddle of this bridge the stranger passes into the 
 
 Place Daupiiine, formed in 1G08, and named after the Dau- 
 phin, afterwards Louis XIII. It is triangular ; in the centre is 
 a fountain, after the designs of Percier and Fontaine, erected in 
 1803 , tc the memory of General Desaix, Avho fell at the battle 
 of Marergo. The bust of the hero, crowned with laurel by the 
 allegorical figure of France, is placed on a circular basement. 
 The following inscriptions will be remarked ; 
 
 Allez (lire au Premier Consul que je meurs avec le regret de 
 n’avoir jas assez fait pour la post6rit6. 
 
 Landau, Kelil, Weissenbourg, Malte, Cbebreis, Embab^, les 
 Pyramidss.Sediman,Samanhout, Kane, Thebes, Marengo, furent 
 les t^moms de ses talents et de son courage. Les ennemis I’ap- 
 pelaienllc juste; ses soldats, comme ceux de Bayard, sans peur 
 et sans rei»rocbc; il vecut, il mourut pour sa patrie. 
 
 L. Ch. Ant. Desaix, ii6 a, Ayat, diipartement du Puy-de-D&me, 
 le XVII ••.out MDCCLVIII ; laort h Marengo le XXV prairial an Vlll 
 de la Rfpublique MDCCC. Ce monument lui fut 41ev6 par des 
 amis de sa gloirc et de sa verlu sous le Consulat de Bonaparte, 
 Fan X de la R^publique MDCCCII. 
 
 This “pace,” formerly the residence of the officers of the Par- 
 lament, was the scene of some festivities under Louis XIV. 
 
 The Quai de FHorloge, where new buildings for the Prefec- 
 ture of folice are now in progress ( 2 ), leads to the Boulevard 
 du Palais, where we see the imposing front of the 
 
 Palais de Justice. — This vast edifice is nearly as old as 
 the Palais des Thermes, (see p. 388,) and was used for public 
 
 (1) On the Pont Neuf there formerly stood the Pompe de \a Sa- 
 maritaini, so called from a bronze bas-relief on it, of Jesus and 
 the womm of Samaria. It was built in i604 to supply water to 
 the Tuihries and the Louvre, and demolished in isis. 
 
 (2) Tin old hotel was adorned Avilh fresco-portraits of the 
 nrovosfs of the old corporations. These have been removed, 
 and willoe replaced in the new constructions. 
 
PALAIS DE JUSTICE. 299 
 
 purposes lon§ before tbe invesion of tbeFrsnkSj since in 17 84 
 a bas-relief, representing Mercury, apparently of the 4th cen- 
 tury, was found during some excavations in a part of the 
 building facing the rue de la Barillerie, now the Boulevard. 
 On the same stone was the figure of a ship, being the well- 
 known symbol of Paris. The kings of France of the first race 
 resided in this palace, and those of the thiid, until about the 
 end of the 14th century ; Bobert, son of Hugh Capet, made 
 considerable additions to it about the year 1000 ; it was en- 
 tirely rebuilt by Philippe le Bel in 1313 ; Louis XL, Charles 
 VIII. , and Louis' XII. , extended it, and Francis I. made it his 
 residence in 1531. One of its principal halls, called Grande 
 Salle du Palais, now replaced by the Salle des Pas Perdus, 
 erected in 1022 by Desbrosses, was destroyed by fire in 1618. 
 There was an immense marble table there, which was used 
 for the royal banquets, and at certain periods of the year, it 
 performed the office of a stage, on which the clerks of the 
 palace called Clercs de la Basoche, diverted the public with 
 satirical performances and farces. In 17 7.0 a fire broke out 
 in the buildings adjoining the Sainte Chapelle, (see p. 304) 
 and completely destroyed them (1). i • / s 
 
 Exterior. — The front, facing the Boulevard du Palais (2), 
 consists of a central body and two wings enclosing an ample 
 court, separated from the street by an iron railing, lichly 
 wrought and gilt. The central body is decoiated with foui 
 Doric columns, supporting four colossal figures above the en- 
 tablature, which is crowned with an attic surmounted by a 
 lofty quadrangular dome. It receives access from a stately 
 flight of steps, occupying upwards of half the breadth of the 
 court. Fronting the Boulevard, the lateral wings have facades 
 consisting of four Doric columns, resting upon bossaged 
 basements, and extend north and south, also forming the luede 
 la Sainte Chapelle, thus enclosing a second court, which g^i' es 
 access to the splendid edifice of that name, and to the Hotel 
 de la Prefecture de Police, (see p. 303.) To the north the 
 style of the building gradually changes from the Italian to the 
 mixed Gothic of the 14th century, beginning with a body 
 crowned with two segmental pediments, flanked liy small 
 
 ( 1 ) Nearly the whole of this palace facing the Boule\artl 
 ; ..cl the Quai de I’Horlogc has hecn entirely rebuilt or under- 
 pii lied. The whole sum expended on the Palais de Juslice in 
 the course of i 2 years is 22,000,000 fr. When completed, the 
 buildings, including the Prefecture of Police, will Le more Than 
 a kilometre in circuit. The present architects aie MM. viollel- 
 
 Leduc and Daiimet. , r ci 
 
 (2) Opposite the Palace formerly stood the Convent ol bl. 
 
 Barlhelemy. 
 
300 
 
 ELEVENTH WALK. 
 
 turrets, aud ending with a buttressed wing executed accordins 
 to the original designs, which connects the palace with a large 
 
 square tower, called La Tottr de ri7or%e. ( 1 ) The design of 
 
 this wing is continued along the Quai de I’Horloge, and termi- 
 nates at a round tower, called the Tour de Cesar between 
 which and the adjoining Tour Bombee is the entrance'to the 
 ionciergerie (see p. 302.; It was here the guillotine carts 
 used to receive the victims of the Reign of Terror. Further on 
 is a third round tower, crowned with battlements, called the 
 Tour d Argent, connected with the former. This portion 
 also belongs to the Conciergerie. The splendid clock 
 which now adorns the side of the palace facing the Ouai 
 aux Meurs, was replaced there in 1852. ( 2 ) The fi<^ures 
 of Piety and Justice which flank the dial-plate, the caryatides 
 supporting the circular arch, and the angels supporting the 
 coat-of-arms which crowns the pediment, are by Germain 
 Pilon. It IS profusely painted and gilt. In front of the prin- 
 cipal court of the Palace criminals used to undergo the pun- 
 ishmentof the carcan, orpillory, which was abolished in 1848 
 Intenor.— On entering the vestibule, which is Doric from 
 the principal court, the visitor will, at the further end to his 
 left perceive a door which gives access to the upper portico 
 of the G/iape We (see p. 304.) An elegant passage starts 
 
 heie at right angles from the vestibule, unfortunately masking 
 the beautiful porportions of that monument. The passa^m gives 
 access to the new buildings facing the Boulevard and rue de la 
 bainte Chapelle, which contains the offices of the Procureur 
 Imperial and other functionaries, and to a staircase descending 
 to the ground-floor under an arch communicating with both 
 the principal and the second court. Opposite the principal 
 entrance in the vestibule a staircase leads to the Cour Imne- 
 riale d Appel, and at the lower end, is the Salle des Pas 
 Perdus.^ This Salle, situated above what were the kitchens in 
 St. Louis s time gives access to the Aile des Tours, opposite 
 the Seme, which contains several offices of the Civil Tribunal 
 and to the Court of Cassation, the libraries, 8cc. It is Doric’ 
 and IS bisected by a line of lofty arcades, with a double- 
 arched ceiling. It is 2 IG feet by 84, and contains a fine mo- 
 nument by Dumont, erected in 1822, under one of the arches, 
 
 ( 1 ) The bell, called Torsin du Palais, now replaced in Inis 
 tower, repeated the signal from St. Germain I’Auxerrois for the 
 massacre of St. Bartholomew. 
 
 (2) Charles V. had it constructed in i3f)7, it being the first large 
 clock seen in Paris. He also appointed a clever artisan, Henri 
 de \ 1C, a. German by birth, to regulate it. The decorations were 
 niiistied 111 1G55, and repaired in iGS.i, under Louis XIV 
 
PALAIS DE JUSTICE. 30 1 
 
 to the memory of Malesherbes. It consists of a basement and 
 two Ionic columns, surmounted by a pediment, with his statue 
 by Bosio, and the inscription ; 
 
 Strenue semper fidelis regi suo, in solio veritatem, praesidium 
 in carcere attulif. 
 
 Two statues, France and Fidelity, by Bosio, occupy the lateral 
 plinths. The panel of the basement contains a bas-relief by 
 Cortot : Louis XVI. in conference with the Counsel for his de- 
 fence. This, removed in 1830, was replaced in 1846. 
 
 Opposite this monument a passage, under a doulile-branched 
 staircase, leads to a glazed court, giving access to the chambers 
 of the Tribunal de Premiere Instance, the series of which is 
 completed in the upper gallery, accessible by the staircase 
 itself. All this part is new, and elegantly conceived ; in the 
 gallery are the busts of Le Camus, Argouges de Fleury, and 
 Augran d’Alleray, civil lieutenants under the old regime ; and 
 those of Presidents Berthereaux, Try, and Moi-eau. 
 
 Returning to the Salle des Pas Perdus, a passage parallel 
 to it gives access to the Court of Assize by a double-branched 
 staircase ; the ceiling of this Court is painted by Jean and Bon 
 Boullongne, but disfigured by iron bars required lor its support. 
 The Procureur Imperial sits to the right of the judges ; the 
 jury are on the same side along the wall ; the prisoners’ bench 
 is opposite, each prisoner having a gendarme by his side ; the 
 counsel for the defence sit in front of this bench 1 1.) 
 
 A passage between the branches of the staircase leads to 
 the Cour d’ Appel Correctionnelle ; and opposite the stair- 
 case is a long narrow passage, in the style of the times of 
 Francis I. At the end of this gallery is a statue of St. Louis, 
 standing against the wall of one of the towers, in which the 
 will of Louis XIV., immediately on its being received by 
 the Parliament, was enclosed in a recess, and bricked up, 
 in order that its execution might become impossible. A 
 smaller gallery to the left, at right angles with the former, 
 having over its entrance medallions of Charles V., Justinian, 
 Louis XIII., and Charlemagne, has its panels filled with portraits 
 of the mosteminent French lawyers, and leads to the Chambre 
 des Requites, a large hall, with statues of Tronchet and 
 Portalis, and a painting representing the Roman Ambassadors 
 before the Areopagus of Athens. 
 
 The Court of Cassation holds its sittings in a spacious room, 
 built by St. Louis, and afterwards used as a throne-room. 
 At a later period the Grande Chambre of the Parlement used 
 
 (i) Persons desirous of witnessing a trial should go early to 
 find seats, else they will have to wait their turn at the bottom of 
 the staircase. 
 
302 ELEVEOTH WALK. 
 
 to hold its sittings there. This court is adorned with statues 
 of the Chancellors d’Aguesseau and ITIopital, hy Deseine. 
 The other courts are very ordinary apartments. 
 
 The chief entrance-court gives access on the right to the 
 
 CONCiERGERiE, thc most interesting part of the old palace, 
 on account of its many melancholy associations relating to 
 the first French revolution. It was the prison of the royal 
 palace, and its name is derived from the concierge (keeper), 
 who was the chief of a jurisdiction caWed Bailliage du Palais, 
 had the title of bailli, and enjoyed several privileges. It has 
 at present a floating population of about 120 persons (see p. 
 77). From the entrance the visitor descends into a vesti- 
 bule divided into two aisles hy a row of columns sup- 
 porting pointed arches. This was formerly the Salic des 
 Gardes of Louis IX. • it has now been restored to its original 
 state. The last window to the right, situated between thc 
 first two towers, fronts a dark passage where new parloirs 
 have been constructed on the plan of those of the Prison 
 Mazas (see p. 76). The rest of the prison has been rebuilt on 
 the cellular system, and contains 100 cells ; the court being 
 also divided into compartments like those described at p. 76. 
 The prison of Marie Antoinette, now the sacristy of the chapel, 
 has been preserved. It is a low flat-vaulted chamber with 
 plain groins. It contains three paintings, by Simon, Pajou, 
 and Drolting, representing scenes connected with the latter 
 days of that Queen’s life. In one, the Queen is in the Temple 
 (see p. 253) bidding adieu to Madame Flisabeth and the 
 Duchesse d’Angouleme ; behind them is Simon, thc notorious 
 cobbler, who by his ill-treatment caused the death of Louis 
 XVII. Another painting represents the Queen alone in prison, 
 and in the third she is taking the sacrament (1) previous to her 
 execution. Her crucifix is still shown here. A black marble 
 slab in the wall, flanked by inverted torches, bears a suitable 
 inscription (2). In this same prison Princess Elizabeth, and 
 also Robespierre, were confined. The window looks into the 
 yard of the female prisoners ; it is adorned with plain stained 
 
 (i) M. dc Lamartine, in bis Histoire des Girondins, says that 
 she refused the sacrament from a priest sworn to the Republic, 
 no other being allowed her; but it was the Abb6 Mangin who 
 administered the sacrament to her, having introduced himself 
 into her prison under the disguise of a gendarme. 
 
 (a) The following is the inscription above alluded to, said to 
 have been written by Louis XVIII. : — 
 
 “ D.O.M. Hoc in loco Maria Antonia Josepha Joanna Austriaca, 
 Ludovici Xyi. vidua, conjuge trucidato, liberis ereplis, in carce- 
 rem conjecta, per diesLXXVl. ajrumnis luctu etsqualoreadfecta, 
 
CONCIERGERIE. 303 
 
 glass, part of which is arranged in a circle of about twelve 
 inches diameter, showing the dimensions of the window at 
 the time Marie Antoinette occupied the cell. The Chapel is 
 simple, and elliptically arched ; above, opposite the altar, 
 is a heavily grated gallery for the women, the men sit- 
 ting below. It was in tliis chamber the Girondins held their 
 last banquet before their execution. Prisoners are taken to a 
 room apart to confer with their counsel. The room in which 
 the present Emperor of the French was confined, after the affair 
 of Boulogne, cannot be visited, as it is occupied by the family 
 of one of the chief functionaries of the prison (1). A dark 
 passage leads to a room on the ground floor of the Tour 
 d’ Argent, where St. Louis is said to have kept his treasure. 
 It is a lofty chamber with a ribbed vault. From one of the 
 windows is seen an arched staircase leading to the Seine, and 
 closed by a heavy gi’ated door. The vaulted passage commu- 
 nicating with it is said to have been formerly used to convey 
 to the Seine the dead bodies of the victims of the celebrated 
 oubliettes of the palace (2). Can he visited on applying for 
 a ticket to the Bureau des Prisons, Cour du Harlay. 
 
 The new buildings of the Prefecture of Police adjoining the 
 Conciergerie are enough advanced to give an idea of the general 
 plan. The principal entrance, facing the west, consists of a 
 portico of ten columns, flanked by wings looking on both 
 Quays. The colonnade is connected by a central body with 
 the Palais de Justice. That portion of the new buildings 
 which is already finished, contains the prison of the Depdt 
 Judiciaire, formerly called Souricieres, and now constructed 
 on the cellular system like the prison of Mazas (see p. 75). 
 The edifice forms a quadrangle enclosing a vast court glazed 
 over, and divided into separate compartments, each of which 
 is occupied by a single prisoner for one hour. Greco, Impe- 
 ratori, Trabucco, and Scaglioni were confined here in 1864 
 
 sed propria virtute innixa ut in solio, ita et in vinculis majorem 
 fortuiia se praelniit. A scefeslissimis denique hominihus capile 
 damnata, morte jam imminenfe, ajternum pietatis, fortitudinis, 
 omniumque virlutum monumenlum hie scripsit, die XVI. Octo- 
 bris, MDCCXCIII. Restitute tiuidem regno, career in sacrarium 
 conversus dicatus est. A.D. MDCCCXVl., Ludovici XYlll. regnan- 
 lis anno XXII. Comite de Gazes a securitate publica Regis minis- 
 tro, pnefecto aedilibusque curantibus. Quisquis hie ades, adora, 
 admirare, precare.” 
 
 (1) In one of the old rooms there was a ring in the ceiling, 
 from which an iron cage is said to liave hung, containing the 
 remains of Ravaillac. I.ouvel, who stabbed the Due de Rerri, 
 was confined in one of the old cells. 
 
 (2) This prison has several times been the theatre of dreadful 
 
304 ELEVENTH WALK. 
 
 previous to tlieir trial for conspiracy against the Emperor’s 
 life. The prison communicates with the Palais de Justice by 
 a subterranean passage, through which the prisoners are con- 
 ducted for trial or examination. In the second court of the 
 Palais de Justice we find the 
 
 Sainte Ciiapelle, erected in 1245 — 8, by the architect 
 Pierre de Montreuil, for the reception of the relics (including 
 the crown of thorns and a piece of the true cross.' , bought of 
 Baldwin, Emperor of Constantinople, by St. Louis. 
 
 Exterior . — The front of this splendid building consists of an 
 under-croft porch of three Gothic arches, intersected by 
 buttresses, two of which end laterally in two engaged spired 
 towers, connected on the outside by a gallery and jiarapet 
 crowning the upper portico. Between the towers is a crocheted 
 gable, surmounting a splendid rose-window constructed by 
 Charles VIII. The spires are octagonal, and encircled with 
 a crown of thorns at half their height. The upper windows 
 are surmounted by crocheted canopies, connected by an 
 open-worhed parapet crowning the whole, on which we see 
 eigth statues of angels, cast in lead, by Geoffrey Dechaune. 
 The height of the edifice is 139 feet; its length 118 feet, 
 and breadth 55 feet. The roof is steep and surmounted 
 by a lofty spire, 108 feet in height, richly crocheted and 
 gilt, and adorned at its base with the statues of the 12 
 apostles, cast in zinc. Itwas erected in 1853, to replace ano- 
 ther loo feet high, burned down in 1030. 
 
 Interior. — The visitor for the present enters the upper 
 chapel by the winding staircase of one of the towers. It 
 consists of a nave and semi-circular choir, comprising a space 
 of 108 feet by 34 ; the former has four windows on each 
 side, the latter seven all around and lancet-arched They are 
 separated by clusters of three detached columns, with bases and 
 
 massacres; the most recent was on the 2d and 3d of September, 
 1792, wlien 239 persons were inhumanly murdered. Those who 
 can obtain access to the Bibliotheque de la Conciergerie hy an in- 
 troduction to the librarian, will there see the book of the ecrow, 
 or register of the prisoners confined in the Conciergerie from the 
 time of its foundation. Itcontains the names of Ravaillac, Char- 
 lotte Corday, Robespierre, the presentEmperor, etc. Here also is 
 the vellum-bound folio which lay open on Maillard’s desk, where 
 the names of the intended victims were inscribed. Its pages are 
 stained with blood, imprinted hy the fingers of the ruffians who, 
 after having despatched one victim, would turn over its leaves to 
 see who was to he murdered nevt. In a drawer are contained 
 the receipts for 24 francs, the fee paid for every murder. Ano- 
 ther drawer contains lettres de cachet. The mask of Cartouche, 
 and a list of his 500 associates, are also preserved here. 
 
SAINTE CttAPELLE. 305 
 
 Capitals ; the whole is gorgeously piated and gilt in lozeno-es 
 diamonds, &c., with fleurs de lys interspersed. The basement 
 is adorned with elliptical arches from pier to pier ; the quatre- 
 foils of the tracing are filled with old frescoes in wax, revived 
 representing the deaths of various martyrs ; under the third 
 window of the nave two of the arches on each side recede 
 into an ambry adorned in continuity with the rest. Close 
 to that on the right is a small door giving access to a cham- 
 ber, called Oraloire de Louis IX., where that monarch used 
 to retire in order to hear mass from a small window looking' 
 into the nave. At the extremity of the choir is a low vaulted 
 square chapel, the roof of which is supported by seven arches 
 resting on slender columns ; in the front spandrils are two 
 angels. Above it is a Gothic canopy for a statue. A 
 screen of three trifoliate arclus, resting on low columns, 
 with perforated spandrils, and richly gilt, connecls this chapei 
 on either side with the main basement. Two beautiful winding 
 staircases of wood, richly gilt, give access to the roof of the 
 small chapel ; that to the right is an exact copy of the left- 
 hand one, which is of the 13th century, and was preserved from 
 destruction by the care of M. Lenoir. The statues of the 
 Apo.stles, modelled with great precision after some of 
 the original ones which were discovered on the Mont Vale- 
 rien, during the construction of the fort, stand on brackets in 
 front of the piers. All the windows are tilled with beau- 
 tiful stained glass of 1248, which escaped destruction durin*^ 
 the revolutions. ( 1 ) Some portions, which were missing, have 
 been successfully supplied, according to the cartoons designed 
 by Steinheil. That of the great rose-window is splendid ; 
 under it a gallery, fronted with a Gothic balustrade, rests upon 
 pointed arches, the tympans of which are charged with quaint 
 
 (i) The subjects therein represented in various compartments 
 are, beginning from the left on entering, ist window : the Crea- 
 tion of the World, the Fall, the History of (he Patriarchs- 2d. 
 and 3d. the History of Moses; 4th. Scenes from the Books of Jo- 
 shua, Judges, and Ruth; sth, the Histories of Gideon, Jephlha 
 and Siunson ; 6th. the Prophecies of Isaiah — the Tree of Jesse* 
 comprising the Genealogy of the Kings of Judah ; 7lh. the Histo- 
 nes of John the Evangelist, the Virgin and the Infancy of Jesus • 
 8th. the Divine Mission of Jesus, his Passion, Resurrection and 
 Ascension ; 9th. the Legend of St. John the Baptist, the Prophecies 
 ofDamel ; loth. the Visions and Prophecies of Ezekiel ; nih. the 
 Legends, Prophecies, and Lamentations of Jeremiah, the Historv 
 of Tobiah ; I 2 th. the History of Judith; i3th. Various othersuh- 
 jects taken from the Old Testament; i4lh. tlie Hisiory of Saul 
 and David ; iSIh.the Histoi-- of St. Louis, and the Tian.«Ia!ion of 
 the Ci'owii of Thorns. 
 
 20 
 
306 ELEVENTH WALK, 
 
 devices of a religious character. The visitor, on descending one 
 of the winding staircases, enters the undercroft chapel, once a 
 parochial church, now completely impaired and opened to view 
 externally by a trench sunk to the old level. Detached columns 
 sl’ooor^ 4e ribs of the vault, and form two very narrow 
 aisles In some of the spandrils has reliefs ol the time are still 
 visible The floor is rich in tombstones. A well-endowed 
 chanter and prelacy was founded here by St. Louis, and became 
 remarkable afterwards for its litigious disposition, so admirably 
 satirized by Boileau in his immortal Lutrin. That poet was him- 
 Slf buried in the lower chapel, where his tonibstone is still to 
 be seen (see p. 358.) The Sainte Cliapelle with its relics cost 
 St Louis a sum equal to 2 , 800,000 fr., and its restoration has 
 cok I 104 718 b-. In 17 89 it was converted into the depot 
 of the ’archives of the Courts of Justice, not, however, untd 
 the internal decorations of both chapels had been destroyed. 
 During the repairs old plans of the buildiii^g as original ly de- 
 kimied were found (1). Architect, M. Boeswilwald. Admittance 
 daily from lo to 4 by a fee or wdh ticket froni le 
 Ministre de la Maison de I’Empenur et des Beaux, Arts. 
 
 ODDOsite to the Sainte Cliapelle, is the lUtel du Tresoner, 
 aftSs Cour des Comptel a fine building of the time of 
 I ouis XV. now the residence of the Prefect of Police. (2) 
 
 ' On leavi’iw this court, we find to our left the , „ , 
 
 Pont au Change.— Upon this spot stood the Grand Pont, 
 a wooden bridge, originally the only 
 
 the Tie de la Cite and the northern bank of the Seine. In 
 1141 Louis VII. fixed the residence of money-changers here 
 and hence its name. Several times destroyed 
 W.1S burnt down in 1C21, and ‘ 
 
 with houses on each side, demolished m 17 88. It >vas le 
 built ill 18 GO of three elliptical arches, and " 
 
 slabs record its reconstruction under Napoleoii 111. The fine 
 new edifice in front of the Palais de Justice is the 
 
 TiUBUNAL DE COMMERCE.— Erected On the Site oiice occu- 
 pied by the Career Glaucini under the Roman Empire, and 
 Fater b^ the Church and Convent of St. Bartht emi. The 
 nresen/edifice, which also comprises the Chambei s of the 
 Coiiseils des Prud’homraes (seep. 68), is Cormthiaii, pa‘t^m 
 of the style of the Renaissance, and profusely sculptuied. 
 Tbe intenor is divided into a number of audiei;ce-ha Is, 
 waiting-rooms, offices, &c. The principal audience-hall is 
 
 u\ In <s42 while proseculing the restoration of this church. 
 t Viiliri'in hcaVt enclosed in a coffer was found under the altar, 
 wmc r.om “mliquS assert lo he the heart of St. horns 
 
 ( 2 > The bureaux of the Cour des Cowptes are now Quai d Orsay. 
 
307 
 
 POiNT ST. MICHEL. 
 
 painted by M. Robert Floury. Two particularly elegant por- 
 tions of the edifice arc worthy of a visit. The first is the 
 double-branched elliptical staircase situated under the cupola 
 which rises from the centre of the liuilding; the surroundin"- 
 architecture is florid Corinthian, and consists of en"a"ecf 
 pilasters alternating with niches, windows, and the principal 
 door of the first storey. Above the entablature there rises an 
 attic, affording light through rectangular windows, flanked 
 with caryatides, and the whole is crowned with the cupola, 
 pierced with eight circular windows. Next to this there is 
 the Cour d'Honneur, a vast court glazed over, and sur- 
 rounded with two tiers of galleries resting on fluted Corinthian 
 columns with pedestals, the upper gallery being fronted with 
 balustrades. Above this there is an attic with windows 
 flanked with caryatides as before. The sculpture is every- 
 Avhere very rich. This court is, in point of fact, the Salle 
 des Pas-Perdus, or waiting-hall of the place (sec p. co). 
 
 On the ground south of this edifice a monumental caserne 
 has been erected. The whole of this part of old Paris was 
 granted by Dagobert to his goldsmith and minister St. Eloi, 
 and called La Ceinture de St. Eloi. St. Marcel was buried 
 in one of tbe streets which intersected this ground, called the 
 rue de la Calandre. The legends connected with this quarter 
 of Paris are innumerable. 
 
 The Boulevard is continued to the Left Bank across the 
 
 Pont St. Michel, so called as early as 1424, from a 
 neighbouring church. Having fallen down in 1616, it was re- 
 built in stone, with houses on the sides. These were taken down 
 inl804.and it has now been rebuilt of 3arches,in ordertobriiw 
 it in a line with the Boulevard. (Seep. 389.) Its present dimen- 
 sions are 55 metres by 30. The cost of re-construction was 
 1,800,000 fr. It was here the insurgents of .lune 1848 formed 
 their most scientific barricade, demolished by cannon on 
 the 24th. 
 
 East of this, is the Petit Pont, now reconstructed of one 
 single arch, (l) A bridge, the only communication between 
 the lie de la Cite and the southern bank of the Seine, existed 
 at this spot before the Roman conquest. It was carried away, 
 by inundations or ice, thirteen times between the 13th and 
 17th centuries, and rebuilt of wood, with houses on it, in 1 659. 
 In 1718 it was burned down, but soon after rebuilt of stone. 
 
 (I) This bridge was defended Ity a fort called the Petit Chulelet 
 which was destroyed by the inundation of 1296 . It was rebuilt 
 in 1369, by Hugues Aubriot, prevdt of Paris, who also built the 
 Bastille. 11 afterwards became a prison for debtors. This fort 
 
308 eleventh walk. 
 
 From the rue Neuve Notre Dame, the visitor will cutei’ the 
 Parvis de Notre Dame, a spacious area, which was Ibuilt 
 oil till 1190 , when Maurice de Sully, 68th bishop of Paris, 
 palled down the houses, and formed a suitable approach to the 
 Cathedral. No. 2, place dii Parvis, once a foundling h<ospi- 
 tal, is now the Bareau central d’admission dans les Hopi- 
 laav (see p. 136 ). Opposite to this is the 
 H otel Di eu. — This is the most ancient hospital in Paris, its 
 founJalioalieing attributed to St. Landry, bishop of Paris, in 
 660, under Ghilderic II. It was at first an asylum for the 
 pool', and it was not until the 13th century that patients 
 were admitted. Philip Augustus is the first king known to 
 have been a benefactor to it, and by him it was styled Mai- 
 son de Dieu. St. Louis enlarged the hospital, exempted it 
 from taxes and duties, and assigned an annual revenue to it. 
 In 1 60'? Henry IV. caused two wards to be added. Louis XIII. , 
 Louis XIV., Louis XV., and Louis XVI., were benefactors to 
 this establishment, and several private individuals contributed 
 to its improvement by donations and legacies. In 17 89 it 
 was called Hospice d’ Humanite. It is now to be replaced 
 by another in course of construction on the Quai Napo- 
 leon, at a cost of 25,000,000 fr. In the first hall on 
 entering from the vestibule, and to the right, is a marble 
 statue by Bosio, of the celebrated philanthropist Monsieur 
 de Monthyon, who died in 1820, and was a great bene- 
 factor to the hospitals of Paris. Opposite this statue is one of 
 St. Vincent de Paule. On the walls are portraits of Bichat, 
 Derault, Moreau, Dupuytren, Boudon, Mery, Desault, and Thi- 
 hault. There is besides an elegant marble monument to De- 
 sault and Bichat. Crossing the Seine by an inner passage, 
 we reach a hall containing six inscriptions on marble comme- 
 morating the benefactors of the establishment, and statues of 
 Henry IV., St. Landry, and St. Louis. In the adjoining court 
 is a venerable and interesting chapel, of the 6th century, since 
 it is mentioned by Gregory of Tours, who lodged for some 
 time in the buildings annexed to it, and once known as the 
 church of St. Julien le Pauvre ; it has an entrance by the street 
 of that name. It consists of a nave and aisles, with a choir 
 
 was considered as the real gate of Paris under St. Louis,. iust as 
 the Grand Chalelet (see p. 2S2) was the entrance of Paris on 
 the northern side. In a tariff for the toll to be paid at the Petit 
 Pont, fixed by St. Louis, it is ordained tliat a monkey for sale 
 shall pay 4 deniers toll ; but if it belong to a joculateur, or jung- 
 ler, the latter may save the amount by making the monkey 
 dance before the toll-taker. Hence the origin of the proverb : 
 payer en monnaie de singe. A ballad-singer was also allowed to 
 sing a song instead of toll. 
 
CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 309 
 
 elegantly groined and ribbed. The aisles are terminated by 
 chapels. It was pillaged by the Normans in the ninth cen- 
 tury, and at a later period became the property of the Abbey 
 of Longpont, which derived a good revenue from its Avell, 
 supposed to be miraculous. The best paintings here are ! 
 Christ exhorting the Jews to give to Caesar what is Ca’sar’s ; tl)e 
 Raising of Lazarus, by Lelay ; the Resurrection of Clnist ; the 
 Judgment of Solommn, and the Flagellation. Admission to the 
 hospital on Thursdays and Sundays, from 1 to 3 ; strangers 
 with passports, daily, on application, at the bureau (seep. 139.) 
 At the eastern extremity of the Hdtel Dieu, is the 
 Pont au Double, built in 1634. — Adou6/e (twoliards) was 
 paid as toll on it till 17 89, whence its name. It has now been 
 rebuilt of one arch. North of this, is the stupendous fabric of 
 The Ca thedral Cn uRcn of Noire Dame.— The jirecise 
 dates of thislplendicl (Tdifice Have never been accurately fixed. 
 It appears certain that a temple existed on this spot" in the 
 time of the Romans, the foundations being discovered in 17 1 1 , 
 when nine large stones were found : one a votive altar l aised 
 by the NautcB Parisiaci, to Jove, and another beaiing the 
 effigy of the Gallic deity Hesus. They have often been de- 
 scribed, and are now at the Palais des Thermes (see p. 
 388.) On the site of this temple a ehur'ch dedicated to St. 
 Stephen was erected about 365, in the time of Valentinian I. 
 This was rebuilt by Childebert, about 522, and is spoken of 
 by Fortunatus, bishop of Poitiers, who says that it contained 
 thirty columns, “ ter decern ornata columnis.” (1) Ro- 
 bert, son of Hugh Capet, undertook the reconstruction of this 
 church, which was called Notre Dame, from one of its cha- 
 pels which Childebert had dedicated to the Virgin. The first 
 stone was laid by Pope Alexander 111 ., who had taken refuge in 
 France, while Maurice de Saliac was bishop of the diocese. The 
 high altar was consecrated in 1 182 by Henry, legate of the Holy 
 See; and in 1185, Heraclius, Patriarch of Jerusalem, who had 
 come to Paris tci preach the third crusade, officiated in Hie 
 church for the first time. The west front was llnished bv 
 Rishop Maurice de Sully in 1223, during the reign of Philip 
 Augustus; and the southern transept with the portal in 12 57, 
 during the reign of St. Louis, according to the following in- 
 scription renewed on the wall of that part of the edifice ; — 
 Anno Domini MCCLVII. Meuse Februario idus secundo 
 Hoc fuit inceptum Christi genitricis honore. 
 
 Kallensi Lathonio vivente lohanne magistro. 
 
 The architect’s name \\asMaistre Jehan de Chelles. TJic noi Hi 
 
 (i) See Duchesne, tome i, p. 464. The church was consecrated 
 May 31, 1864, after undergoing many improvements. 
 
ELEVENTH WALK. 
 
 310 
 
 ern transept and portal, as also the canopies surmounting the 
 lateral windows, were erected in 1312,by Ihilippele Bel, with 
 part of the proceeds of the confiscated estaes of the Templars. 
 The Vorte Rouge, on the northern side, \^as erected in 1407 
 by Jean Sans-Peur, Duke of Burgundy, he assassin of the 
 Duke of Orleans, as an expiation for his crime The internal works 
 of the choir were begun by order of Louis XIV., in 1099, and 
 finished in 1714. The pavement of Notre Dame was so much 
 below the level of the Parvis, in 1748, tint a flight of 13 steps 
 led to it. In that year the ground was lovered as at present. 
 
 Exterior. —This edifice is a regular cruciform church, 
 having an octagonal eastern end. At tie western end are 
 two lofty square towers, which were htended to support 
 spires. Behind them there is now a nev spire surmounted 
 by a gilt cross and just erected in place of one of the 13th 
 century, taken down in 1797. Its heighfis 135 feet from the 
 roof, and 280 from the floor of the chur'h. The lead with 
 which it is coated weighs 300 tons. It is adorned with 
 several statues. The dimensions of ths church were en- 
 graved on a brass tablet, in old Fremh verse, and fixed 
 against one of the pillars; they Ave-e stated to be as 
 follows; — length 390 feet, width at traisepts 144 ft., height 
 of vaulting 102 ft., height of western Uwers 204 ft., width 
 of western front 128 ft. The length of the nave is 225 ft., 
 width 39 ft; the roof is 356 feet in lenglli, formed of chesnut 
 timber, and rising 30 feet above the vaulting; height of win- 
 dows, 36 feet ; it will hold 21,000 perso;s. The foundations 
 are laid 18 feet below the soil, on a had stratum of gravel. 
 The general style is of the pure pointed aichitecturc, with vast 
 flying buttresses fronted by crocheted pinnacles ; those parts 
 built in the 14th century being closely copied from what pre- 
 viously existed. The western front is at once the finest and 
 most remarkable feature. Three ample portals lead into the 
 nave and aisles. They each form a series of retiring arches, 
 with angels, saints, Sec. in the intermediite mouldings. The 
 portals are bisected by square pillars (1 ); the tympans of their 
 ogives are richly-sculptured. The same style exists also in 
 the portals of the transepts. The subjects of the sculp- i 
 tures which adorn these portals are no where treated in 
 a form so attractive as in Vicjii ^i* Hugo ’s Noire Dame de Pa-J 
 (i) Tlial of the cculnil one was removed on Jan. ist, i852, on 
 the occasion of the thanksgivings for llie renewal of the Presi- 
 dent’s power.s, hut lias since l)ceu replaced. In a cavity wilhin 
 tlic pillar was found a lironze. plale, containing an inscription 
 to the effect, that flic first stone of the new entrance was laid in 
 1771 ; and also a medal in copper, with tiie elfigy of Louis XV., 
 and (fie inscription “ Ludovicus XV,, Rex ChrisUanissiiuus,” 
 
CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 311 
 
 ris. The ogive of the Portail du Milieu represents the Last 
 Judgment, in three parts, viz; — 1. the angels sounding the 
 last trump, the tombs opening, and the dead rising; 2. the 
 separation of the righteous from the wicked; 3. the Sa- 
 viour on his throne, worshipped by the Virgin and St. John 
 tlie Evangelist, and accompanied by angels hearing emblems 
 of the crucifixion. Among the sculptures of the arch may be 
 remarked figures of Moses and Aaron ; the Saviour treading 
 beneath his feet the wicked, whom Satan is dragging to hell ; 
 the rider on the red horse at the opening of the second seal ; 
 the blessedness of tlie saints, 8cc. The sides of this entrance 
 have 24 bas-reliefs, representing 12 virtues, with their 
 opposite vices. Beyond these are four other bas-reliefs ; the 
 otrering of Abraham ; the departure of Abraham for Canaan ; 
 Job hcliolding the destruction of his flocks and herds by a tor- 
 rent; and Job reproved by his wife. The statues of the 12 
 apostles, w'hich filled the niches of this portal and the 
 southern one, and were destroyed at the revolution in 
 17 93, have been replaced by new ones, copied from the origi- 
 nal drawings; the patriarchs and kings of the Old Testament, 
 that adorned the other portal, will also he replaced. The 
 pillar of the Portail Ste. Anne, on the right, is orna- 
 mented with a statue of St. Marcel treading beneath his feet a 
 dragon, which had disinterred a woman to devour her. In the 
 tympan above the door are several compartments, in which are 
 sculptured, — Joseph putting away Mary ; Joseph brought hack 
 by an angel ; Joseph taking the Virgin to his home ; the Re- 
 velation of the birth of John the Baptist ; the Annunciation ; the 
 Visitation ; the Nativity ; the Angel appearing to the Shepherds ; 
 Herod holding his Council; the 'SMse Men on their way to 
 Bethlehem ; theOlTering of the Wise Men ; and the Presentation 
 in the Temple. Above these are figures of the Virgin and Child 
 accompanied by angels, Solomon praying, and St. Marcel. On 
 the pillar between the two doors of the Portail de la Vierge, on 
 the left, is a statue of the Virgin and Child. The tympan is 
 in three parts, namely, — figures of six prophets, the Death of 
 the Virgin, and the Crowning of the Virgin. The arch above 
 is adorned with tigures of angels and saints. Above and 
 beyond the niches are various bas-reliefs, representing subjects 
 taken from church history. The most interesting bas-reliefs 
 of this entrance are the 12 signs of the zodiac, and the agri- 
 cultural labours of the 1 2 months of the year, on the door-posts. 
 The sixth sign, Virgo, is represented by a sculptor forming a 
 statue, siipp()§etl to he tliatofthe Virgin. On the right side of 
 tliis pillar are sculptured the age of man in six stages, from 
 youth to decrepitude; on the left, the different seasons 
 
312 ELEVENTH WALK. 
 
 of the year, in six bas-reliefs. The two lateral doors are 
 ornamented with mnch admired iron-work, excuted by Bis- 
 cornette about 1 580. The buttresses on each side of the doors 
 have each a niche, in which were statues of Religion, Faith, St. 
 Denis, and St. Stephen. Immediately above the three doors 
 is a gallery of small pillars supporting trefoils, called Galerie 
 des Rois, which formerly contained 28 statues of the kings of 
 France, from Ghildebert I. to Philip II. All these, executed 
 in the 13th century, were destroyed in 1793, hut 20 of them 
 have now been replaced. Above will be seen the Galerie de 
 la Vierge, now, as it formerly was, decorated with a co- 
 lossal statue of the Virgin between two angels holding chan- 
 deliers ; right and left are figures of Adam and Eve. Above 
 this gallery is the lai ge rose-window between the towers, and 
 in each of the latter are pointed arches, over which runs a 
 lofty gallery of slender shafts, called the Galerie des Colonnes, 
 and continued round the sides ; above rises the last division of 
 the tow'ers, each side occupied with coupled windows, and 
 rich buttresses at the angles crowned by an open-worked battle- 
 ment of quatrefuils ; they are ascended by a staircase of 389 steps 
 from the rue du Cloitre. (1) The southern side of the 
 church is plainer than the northern, having been partly 
 blocked up by the archiepiscopal palace. The portal 
 of the southern transept, called Portail St. Marcel, is 
 pinnacled and ornamented with bas-reliefs. Those in the 
 tympan of the arch represent St. Stephen: 1, instructing the 
 Jews ; 2, answering the Jews’ arguments ; 3, insulted by 
 the Jews; 4, his lapidation ; and 5, his burial. Above 
 is a figure of Christ pronouncing his benediction ; two 
 angels at his sides are in the attitude of adoration ; the 
 arches are ornamented with small figures of angels, prophets, 
 patriarchs, bishops, &c. Above the porch is the great rose- 
 window, and over it a smaller one ; the gable, flanked by two 
 
 (t) The towers of Notre Dame afford one of the finest views of 
 Paris that can be imagined. A spire, above Ihe transept, was 
 pulled down in n92, for the lead, and six beils were melted. 
 The cathedral formerly possessed a fine peal of hells, of which 
 only one remains in the southern tower; it was baptized Em- 
 manuel Louise-Thercse, in i632, in the presence of Louis XIV., and 
 his queen Th(5i'cse. It is called the bourdon, weighs 32,ooO lb., 
 and the clapper 976 lb. Tlie other hell, named Marie, weighing 
 2.5,000 11)., was broken and melted down in 1792, as xvere eight 
 bells of the northern tower. In the southern tow'er there are 
 now' four new hells for the clock, weighing respectively 2, oOo 
 kil., 1,335 kil., 92 5 kil., and 737 kil. There is also another bell 
 here, brought from Sebastopol, The mechanism of the clock is 
 curious. 
 
\ CATHEIVRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 313 
 
 turrets, supports a statue of St. Stephen. On the sides of the 
 entrance are eight bas-reliefs, taken from the saint’s life. The 
 li’onts of the lateral canopies contain bas-reliefs representing 
 St. Martin sharing his mantle with a mendicant ; and Christ, 
 with two angels, carrying the soul of St. Stephen to heaven. 
 In niches are two large statues of Moses and Aaron. Adjoin- 
 ing this is the new Sacristy of the church, communicating by 
 a short passage with one of the chapels of the choir. It is of 
 recent construction, and its Gothic design is in keeping with 
 that of the church. On the central pillar of the grand nor- 
 thern porch, Portail Septentrional, is a statue of the Virgin 
 crushing the dragon. In the tympan above are the Nativity, 
 the Adoration of the Wise Men, the Presentation in the Temple, 
 the Massacre of the Innocents, the Flight into Egypt, and five 
 scenes of the Deliverance of Demoniacs. Above sits a monarch 
 presenting a sealed volume to suppliants kneeling. The arches 
 are ornamented like the others. The statues which filled 
 the niches were destroyed in 1793. The Porte Rouge is 
 surmounted by a triangular canopy. In the tympan of 
 the arch, are Jesus Christ and the Virgin crowned by 
 an angel; on the right and left, Jean Sans Peur, Duke of 
 Burgundy, and Margaret of Bavaria, his duchess, kneeling. 
 In the arches are groups of the miracles of St. Marcel. Be- 
 tween the Porte Bouge and the eastern extremity of the church 
 are seven bas-reliefs, representing .- the death' of the Virgin ; 
 the funeral of the Virgin ; the Assumption ; Christ surrounded 
 by angels ; Christ and the Virgin on a throne ; the Virgin at 
 the feet of Christ in agony ; and a woman about to sell herself 
 to the Devil, delivered by the Virgin. 
 
 Interior. — It consists of a nave and choir with double aisles 
 and lateral chapels. The pillars of the nave are four feet in 
 diameter, and support pointed arches resting upon enriched 
 capitals. The pillars of the aisles are alternately simply 
 circular and clustered with 12 slender columns each. The 
 triforium presents tri-coraposed windows crowned with 
 ogives, the tympans of which are (on the southern side 
 only) perforated by a single circular aperture. The cle- 
 restory, which is the same throughout nave and choir, 
 consists of a series of pointed double windows. The vaulting 
 is hexapartite throughout ; its stone work is only three or 
 four inches thick. Underneath the rose-windows of the 
 transepts are light galleries of very slender shafts supporting 
 pointed trifoliate arches, with open spandrils. The chapels 
 are plain throughout. The rose-windows are elaborate and ex- 
 ceedingly beautiful, and still preserve their stained glass of the 
 13th century ; that of the chapel windows is chiefly modern. 
 
314 ELEVENTH WALK. 
 
 The walls of the transepts are adorned with ogive tracery. (1) 
 The organ is remarkably fine; it is 45 feet in height, 3C in 
 breadth, and contains 3484 pipes. The high altar was pulled 
 dov/ii, at the revolution of 17 89, but under the empire it was 
 re-erected, and such of the works of art as could he collected 
 were restored. The lateral chapels of Notre Dame were 
 formerly remarkable for their splendour, the walls being 
 covered with marble, or finely-carved wainscoting, and 
 containing sumptuous tombs belonging to noble families. 
 These were stripped of their riches in 1793; many of them, 
 however, have been repaired. The church having but re- 
 cently been entirely reopened after the extensive repairs it has 
 undergone, none of the altars and paintings which adorned the 
 chapels have as yet been restored to their places, and the 
 only ornaments visible at present are the key-stones of the 
 arches, which are painted in the Byzantine style. (2) 
 
 Choir . — The visitor will, in the right aisle, find a person who 
 will admit him to the Sacriiti/ on taking a ticket, price 50 c. It 
 consists of a spacious and lofty hall, with three windows in the 
 j)ointed style, decorated with the portraits of 24 archbishops of 
 Paris, from St. Landry, who lived in the time of Charlemagne, 
 to Archbishop Affre, who fell in the insurrection of June 1848 
 and is represented as on his death-bed (see p. 281.) The 
 ribs of the ceiling spring from the canopies of niches contain- 
 ing statues of saints and angels. Well-designed ambries are 
 sunk into the wall, and the furniture of the room consists of 
 oaken presses containing the precious church utensils and vest- 
 ments for which this cathedral is celebrated. Here will be 
 seen croziers, mitres, and crosses, sparkling with precious 
 
 (1) Immense vaults, extending the entire length of the nave, 
 were formed in 1666 and 1711, for the interment of the arch- 
 bishops, canons, etc., of the catliedral. Tliey were profaned 
 during the Reign of Terror; the bodies, including the entrails 
 of Louis xill. and Louis XIV., were tahen out and cast into the 
 sewers, and the leaden cofllns melted down into bullets. During 
 the present repairs other vaults have been discovered, containing 
 various tombs and cotlins, with several curious relics, besides the 
 l)ody of Isabella of Hainault, mother of Louis Vlll. ( 1 1 89.) 
 
 (2) Under each tower may lie seen a large circular aperture in 
 the vanning, through which Ihe ropes passed from the lielfries 
 above. On the wall of the norlhern lower, in the aisle, we see 
 a bas-relief of 1464, forming part of the lomli of Elienne 
 Tver, removed from the chapel of St. Nicholas. The sculpture 
 represents the soul ascending from the grave to the celestial re- 
 gions, while the body, which is seen bencalh, is being consumed 
 by worms. At the seecond pillar of the nave there was a co- 
 lossal statue of SI. Christopher, erected by Auloine des Essars, 
 in 1413 ; it was removed in 1785. 
 
CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 315 
 
 stones ; the robes worn by Pius VII. at the coronation of Na- 
 poleon I. (1); several series of most gorgeous robes, profusely 
 embroidered in gold and silver ; the mask of Archbishop Affre, 
 taken 24 hours after his death, the ball with which he was 
 struck and the two vertebrae that received it. Among the 
 church-utensils, a splendid ostensory will be remarked, which 
 was used at the baptism of the Duke of Bordeaux. It is studded 
 with precious stones producing a most dazzling effect. There 
 is also a pyx presented to the church by St. Louis, a remark- 
 able specimen of the taste and workmanship of the 13th cen- 
 tury. There are also one of the loth, and another of the 1 llh 
 centuries. A statue of the Virgin and Child, executed in silver, 
 and of the size of life, stands on one of the presses ; it was 
 gi\ en to the church by Charles X. Opposite this stands the 
 l)ust of Archbishop Afire, and full-length portraits of Mgr. de 
 Quclen, the predecessor of Archbishop Affre, by Perdjcau, and 
 of Archbishop Sibour, his successor, who was murdered at the 
 porch of St. Etienne duMont ;see p. 408n.),by Court, complete 
 the series of curiosities preserved here. On leaving this 
 room a short passage to the right opens into the Salle du Con- 
 seil, a room not so lofty as the former, lit by four ogive 
 windows. Tbe only furniture it contains is a series of oaken 
 seats, occupied on council-days by the archbishop and his 
 canons, and two paintings, one a full-length portrait of Arch- 
 bishop Afire, end the other representing the death of that pre- 
 late on the barricade of the Fauhourg St. Antoine, both by 
 Lafon. This sacristy has cost one million of francs, and was 
 inaugurated in April, 1854. 
 
 On leaving the Sacristy, the visitor will find to his left, in 
 the third chapel of the choir, a splendid monument erected to 
 the memory of Mgr. Affre. The figure of the prelate, exe- 
 cuted in white marble by Debay, is reclining on the barricade 
 where he received his death-wound ; his hand still holds aloft 
 the olive-branch, the emblem of peace, and his last words ; 
 
 Puisse mon sang 4tre le dernier verse F’ are written above. 
 The countenance bears the expression of exquisite pain mingled 
 
 (i) At the sacking of St. Germain TAuxerrois and the arch- 
 bishop’s palace, in 1831, the populace broke into the sacristy of 
 Notre Dame, and, headed hy olUcers of the National Guards, de- 
 stroyed every thing that came within their reach. The damage 
 thus occasioned was immense ; the coronation robes of Napo- 
 leon, and the splendid dresses he presented to the bishops and 
 the chapter on the occasion of that ceremony, xvere torn up for 
 the snke of their gold embroidery. They have, however, since 
 been repaired. A celebrated artist who was making a most ela- 
 tiorate picture of the interior of Notre Dame, having left it on the 
 easel in tbe vestry, it was cut into a thousand pieces, 
 
3 1 6 ELEVENTH WALK. 
 
 with resignation, admirably conceived by the artist. The 
 basement of the monument is enriched with a haut-relief, re- 
 presenting the Archbishop going towards the barricade, ’and 
 preceded by a young man bearing an olive-branch. National 
 guards and soldiers are in the act of expressing their gratitude 
 for his noble endeavour to stop the effusion of blood. 
 
 The fifth chapel, next to the sacristy, is that of St. Geraud, 
 Baron d’Aurillac, remarkable for having been the place where 
 the young Dauphin, son of Louis XVI., was buried in 1795. (1) 
 It now contains a marble slab recording the death of Cardinal 
 Garibaldi, who died here in 1853. The sixth chapel, that of 
 the Count d’Harcourt contains a splendid monument after the 
 designs of Pigalle, to the memory of that nobleman, who died 
 in 17 69. His figure is seen in a reclining posture, half con- 
 cealed by the coffin in which he is to be enclosed. The lid of 
 the coffin is held by a weeping genius, while at the other end 
 Death shows that his hours are numbered. Opposite this 
 monument there stands a fine colossal statue of white marble, 
 of the Virgin in a silting posture, holding the Saviour on her 
 knees. The windows of the 7lh chapel represent, in stained 
 glass, a variety of Scripture and legendary subjects in nu- 
 merous compartments. In the 8th, an old fresco, representing 
 the Adoration of the Virgin and Child, has been restored. 
 In the ninth chapel we see a splendid monument, by Deseine, 
 to the memory of Cardinal de Belloy, Archbishop of Paris, 
 who died in 1806 in his 99th year. It represents the Pre- 
 late seated in a chair on the basement, bestowing alms on a 
 poor mother and her daughter ; his left hand rests on the 
 Bible. The Cardinal’s head is remarkable for its expression 
 and resemblance. The loth chapel contains a sarcophagus of 
 black marble bearing the statue of the Cardinal de Noailles, 
 Archbishop of Paris, who died in 17 29. In the eleventh 
 chapel there is another monument, representing Leclerc de 
 Juigne, Archbishop of Paris, wlio died in 1811. He is in a 
 kneeling posture, in the attitude of prayer. The figure, re- 
 markable for its execution, is in white marble and haut-relief, 
 by Cartelier. The other chapels are still bare. 
 
 Chancel . — This is separated from the aisle by a richly-gilt 
 iron railing of elegant design. The first object that strikes the 
 eye on entering this part of the choir is the carved work of the 
 stalls, in oak. They are sculptured and decorated with bas- 
 reliefs of the principal events in the life of the Virgin, and 
 other sacred subjects, executed by Duboulon, after the designs 
 of Rene Carpentier, a pupil of Girardon. The stalls are ter- 
 
 (1) According to olher accounts the Church of St. Marguerite, 
 
CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 317 
 
 ruinated Ly two thrones of great beauty, surmounted by 
 canopies, and adorned with angels holding emblems of religion. 
 At the coronation of Napoleon I., the Pope occupied that to 
 the right. Cardinal de Belloy that to the left. The sanctuary and 
 high altar are each approached by flights of steps formed of 
 Languedoc marble ; over the altar is a marble group by Cous- 
 tou, of fine design and execution, representing the Descent from 
 the Cross. This beautiful work is called “The Vow of 
 Louis XIII.” Two statues, one of that monarch, the other of 
 Louis XIV., have been now replaced here. It was supposed 
 that they had been destroyed during the sacking of the 
 Archbishop’s palace in 1831, hut they were fortunately 
 saved and conveyed to Versailles. During the reign of Terror 
 they had been concealed and were restored in 1816. At the 
 marriage of the present Emperor (Jan. 1853), the Imperial 
 couple knelt before the railing of the choir. Upon the exterior 
 of the wall that encloses the chancel are 23 curious and valuable 
 sculptured compartments in alto-rilievo, begun by Maistre Jehan 
 Roux, and finished by Maistre Jehan he Boutelier in 1352. 
 They represent various, passages in the life of Christ. (1) 
 The figures were originally coloured to represent nature. 
 
 There are several excellent works upon Notre Dame, which 
 will amply repay examination (2). North of the cathedral 
 were the cloister and college of the canons, which were de- 
 stroyed in 1793. Architect, Viollel-le-Duc. 
 
 On the southern side of Notre Dame stood the Archbishop’s 
 Palace, erected ‘by Bishop Maurice de Sully, in 1161, but 
 
 (1) Beginning on the left; i. The Visitation. 2 . The Adoration 
 of the Shepherds. 3. The Nativity. 4. The Adoration of “ the 
 wise men.” 5. The Massacre of the Innocents. 6. The Flight into 
 Egypt. 7 . The Presentation in the Temple. 8. Christ in the 
 midst of the Doctors. 9. The Baptism of Clirist. 4 0. The Marriage 
 of Cana in Galilee. 4 4 . The Entry of Christ into Jerusalem. 4 2. 
 The Last Supper. 43. Christ washing the feet of his Disciples. 
 14. Christ on the Mount of Olives. (The Crucifixion, the Entomb- 
 ment, the Resurrection, and the Ascension of Clirist, were de- 
 stroyed when alterations were made in the arches of the choir 
 next the high altar.) 4 5. Christ and Mary Magdalen. i6. The 
 Holy AVomen. 4 7 . Christ appearing to the Apostles. 4s. Christ 
 and the two Disciples on their way to Emmaus. 49. Christ at 
 table with the Disciples, breaking the Bread. 2o. Christ again 
 appearing to the Disciples. 21. The Incredulity of St. Thomas. 22. 
 The miraculous draught of fishes. 23. The Mission of the Apostles. 
 24. Christ giving the Apostles his benediction before his Ascension. 
 
 ( 2 ) The principal are Gilbert, “ Histoire de Notre Dame,” 4 
 voi. 4to.; Fclibien ct Lobineau, “ Histoire de Paris,” 2 vols. 
 folio; “ History of Paris,” 3 vols., Galignani; also Victor Hugo s 
 “ Notre Dame,” and Michelet’s “ Histoire dc trance,” vol. 2 . 
 
318 ELEVEMTl WALK. 
 
 rebuilt by Cardinal de Noailles in 1097. — The Constituent 
 Assembly held their sittings there in 17 89. It was afterwards 
 inhabited l)y the chief surgeon of the Hotel Dieu, and the cha- 
 pel converted into an amphitheatre of anatomy. In 1807. it 
 was restored to the clergy. The palace was a handsome jc- 
 sidence, worthy of the see, and, with its gardens, occupied 
 the southern extremity of the island. The apartments were 
 splendid, and the furniture, partly antique, was valuable. 
 The library was rich in MSS. of the middle ages, and con- 
 tained many literary curiosities. But on Feb. 13, 1831, the 
 populace, having sacked the church of St. Germain I’Auxerrois, 
 proceeded to the archbishop’s palace ; and on that night and 
 the following day every thing it contained was either broken, 
 burnt, or thrown into the river. The palace had to be pulled 
 down, and its site is now occupied by a promenade, adorned 
 in the centre with a small Gothic fountain called 
 
 Fontainf. Notre Dame, erected in 1845. Its height is no 
 feet, and its style is Gothic. Two hexagonal basins, the 
 largest of which is 33 feet in diameter, receive the water 
 from the mouths of three tricephalous monsters (personating 
 heresy in certainly no very flattering manner) crushed by 
 archangels that occupy the blunt angles of the basement. 
 Above these stands the Virgin Mary with the infant, under a 
 crocketted canopy. The sculptors were MM. Merlieux and 
 Pommateau. 
 
 The new low building of Doric design, standing at the ex- 
 treme point of the island is the Morgee, where dead bodies 
 are exposed, for which see page 73. 
 
 Close by, leading to the southern bank of the river, is the 
 
 Pont de l’Arciieveche. — Built in 1827. It consistsof three 
 arches, from 18 to 20 yards in span. We now approach the 
 
 Ile Saint Lons, originally called He aux Vaches . — 
 Henry IV. conceived the project of erecting houses on this 
 spot; but the execution of it was reserved for Louis XIII. 
 It was recently connected with tlie lie de la Cite by two sus- 
 pension bridges close to each other. These have now l)cen 
 suppressed ; one of them, the Pont St. Louis, has been 
 reconstructed of a single iron arch a few yards further off 
 so as to afford a direct communication with a new street cut 
 across the island, in a straight line with the rue Louis Philippe, 
 Avith which it is conneclecl by a stone bridge of three arches, 
 just finished, which lias received the name of tlie old sus- 
 pension-bridge, viz., Pont Louis Piiilidpe. Part of the old 
 bridge was burnt down in February, 1848, and then rebuilt 
 under the name of Pont de la Reforme. On entering the 
 sland, wc find at No. 0, the 
 
319 
 
 BIBLIOTHEQUE POLOXAlSE. 
 
 BlBLiOTiifeQUE Polonaise. — This libraiy, founded by the 
 Polish Literary Society, (see p. 104,) under liic patronage of 
 Prince Czartoryski, and other distinguished refugees, counts 
 upwards of 50,000 volumes, comprising not only all the 
 classics, and most of the standard works in all the languages 
 of Europe, hut a vast and precious collection of manuscript 
 and other documents relating to the history of Poland and 
 Russia. It occupies several rooms, and is receiving daily 
 additions ; it already possesses many rare works, some of 
 which even are not to he found in the other libraries of Paris. 
 Open daily from 11 to 3, holida 3 ^s excepted. 
 
 Nearly opposite to this stands the 
 
 Pont de la Touunelle, so called from the old tower erected 
 by Philip Augustus, that formerly stood on the opposite hank 
 of the river, reaching to the Quai St. Bernard. It was huilt 
 by Marie in IG‘20, was twice carried away, and rebuilt about 
 1650. It consists of six semicircular arches, and is 380 feet 
 by 42, having been widened by cast-iron arches inserted be- 
 tween the piers ; the parapet is also of cast iron. 
 
 East of this is the suspension-bridge called 
 
 Pont de Constantine, connecting the Quai de Bethune with 
 the southern bank. It was constructed in 1837. 
 
 At the foot of the Quai de Bethune are the Ecole de Natation 
 de I’Hdtel Lambert, for ladies, and the Ecole Petit, a swim- 
 ming-school for gentlemen. 
 
 At No. 2, in the rue St. Louis en Pile, is the 
 
 Hotel Lamrert, built by Levau, about 1040. — The court 
 is small; a magnificent staircase, with a scroll-AVork balus- 
 trade, leads from a portico to the state apartments, Avhich re- 
 tain the gilding, painted panels, and ceilings, as originally 
 executed, and produce a splendid effect. The ceilings in these 
 rooms and in the long gallery are by Lesueur, Lebrun, and 
 Levau, executed with a degree of elaborate finish rarely to be 
 met with. The hotel is rich in two historical souvenirs : Vol- 
 taire lived in it when be formed the plan of the Henriade ; and 
 in the gallery above-mentioned, Napoleon in 1815 held a last 
 conference with his minister, M. de Montalivet, when he found 
 that all was lost. This splendid hotel, once the residence of 
 a wealthy president da Parlement of the 17 th century, and 
 afterwards used as a storehouse for the garrison of Paris, be- 
 longs to the Princess Czartoryska, whose judicious taste has re- 
 stored it to all its former splendour. 
 
 Further down, in the same street, is the church of 
 
 St. Louis en lTle, — erected in 1004 on the site of a 
 small chapel, built in looo by Levau, Leduc and Doucet. It 
 has a lofty polygonal spire (erected in 17 05, according to an 
 
320 ELEVENTH WAtk. 
 
 inscription on the tower), in open stone-work. The interior is 
 of Corinthian design, and slightly cruciform, with an aisle run- 
 ning round the nave and choir. The sculptures, which consist 
 of scroll-work in the cupola audits peudentives, were executed 
 hy J. B. Champagne, nepliew of the celebrated painter of the 
 same name. In the first chapel, to the right on entering, is 
 an altar-piece representing Christ at Emmaus, by Coypel ; a 
 Holy Family, by Perrin, and another of older date { an As- 
 sumption, by Peyron, and St. Louis receiving the Sacrament, 
 by Johannot. 2d chapel ; Jesus offering his heart. 3d. South- 
 ern transept: a Virgin in plaster, by Ladatte. 4th. Christ 
 appearing to Mary Magdalene ; St. John the Baptist. 5th. 
 St. Vincent de Paule exhorting the sisters of charity, by 
 Halle, clh. Jesus disputing in the Temple, and Christ 
 calling little children unto him. Behind the choir are 
 three chapels painted in fresco, and enriched with modern 
 stained windows. The first, closed by an oaken screen with 
 bas-relief carvings of six apostles, is painted by Norblin, 
 with figures of Prudence and Fortitude on the lateral walls. 
 The second, occupying the central arch, is the chapel ot St. 
 Louis, and contains four frescoes by Jollivet ; 1, St. Louis 
 receiving the cross from Pope Innocent IV. ; 2, the same, in 
 prison, encouraging his brothers ; 3, Delivering his authority 
 into the hands of the Abbot of St. Denis, to govern the 
 kingdom in his absence ; 4, his Death. The third chapel is 
 closed with a screen like the first, with the remaining six 
 apostles in bas-relief ; on the lateral walls, Temperance and 
 Justice, by Norblin. 10th. St. Francois de Sale, by Halle. 
 
 1 1th, An Assumption, and the Virgin weeping over the instru- 
 ments of the Passion, by Lehmann. 12th. St. Peter preach- 
 ing, by Ducornet. 13th. Northern transept: Ste. Genevieve, 
 in plaster by Lalatte. 14th. St, Louis Gonzaga, by Bodem, 
 and St. Louis of France offering the crown of thorns. 15th. 
 a Deliverance from Purgatory. The organ is above the en- 
 trance ; behind it is a painting of St. Louis relieving the plague- 
 stricken Crusaders. Below is a St. John the Baptist in plaster, 
 by Guichard. On either side of the high altar are statues 
 of St. Peter and St Paul, by Bra, and two frescoes: Moses 
 and Jeremiah. The University of Paris formerly used to 
 visit this church in procession on festivals. 
 
 The northern quay of the He St. Louis leads to the 
 
 Pont Marie. — It was built by Marie, superintendent of the 
 bridges in France, in 1635. Two arches were carried away 
 by a flood, in 1638, with 22 out of 50 houses on it. The re- 
 maining houses were removed a short time before the revolu- 
 tion of 1780. Ithas 5 arches, and is 7 3 feet broad and 300 long 
 
PONT d’aRCOLE. 321 
 
 At Noi Hi, Quai Napoleon, is a house, on the site of one 
 believed to have been that inhabited by Heioise and Abelard. 
 The door bears the monogram and portraits of those two un- 
 fortunate lovers. The corner-house, 1, rue Basse des Ursins, 
 was inhabited by the Canon Fulbert. Further on, is the 
 Pont d’Arcole, formerly a small suspension bridge, and 
 now rebuilt of a single iron arch of 202 feet span and 65 in 
 breadth. It cost I ,l 50,000 fr. (1) 
 
 Continuing along the Quay, we arrive at the 
 Pont Notre Dame, the oldest in Paris, built in 1499 by Jean 
 Joconde, on the site of one dating from 1414, was recon- 
 structed in 1855 at an expense of 1,200,000 francs. It has 
 five arches, and is 302 feet by 50. In 1000, it was orna- 
 mented with statues and medallions of the kings of France ; 
 houses also stood on it, which were pulled down in 1786. 
 
 TT/’ELPTH WALIC. 
 
 This comprises parts of the 7 th and 15th arrondissements. 
 
 The Pont Royal, designed by G. and J. IJ. Mansard, 
 and built in lo84 by an Italian Dominican friar named 
 Frere Romain, leads from the Tuileries to the Quai d’Orsay. 
 It consists of live semicircular arches, and is 432 feet in length 
 by 52 in breadth. This part of the river was formerly crossed 
 by a ferry ibac), whence the rue du Bac derives its name. 
 Upon the piers at each end are scales, commencing from the 
 low water mark of 17 19, (2) and divided into metres and de- 
 cimetres, to show the heiglit of the river. This bridge com- 
 mands a fine view of Paris, both, up and down the Seine. 
 Close to it is moored the Fregate Ecole, a model fi igale, now 
 fitted up for sea-water baths. Turning to the right, we see the 
 
 Caisse des Depots et Consignations, removed in 1858 
 to the present magnificent mansion, which fonnerly bore the 
 name of Hdtel de Lespine, or de PrasUn. It was built in 
 1 7 2 1 , by Bruaut, for the Marshal Due de Belle-Isle, the grand- 
 son of tlie celebrated Fouquet. Its principal entrance is at 
 56, ruede Lille. Overthe door-wayare the dates 1721-1858. 
 
 ( 1 ) In 1 R 30 a young man, named Areole, headed the people in 
 their attack upon tliis bridge (defended by (he Royal Guards) 
 and was killed. This art of courage, similar lo ha! displayed at 
 Areola by Napoleon, gave (he Isridue il.s present name. 
 
 (2) The higbcsl walers k nown were in 173;’. and i 74 n; in (he 
 taller > ear lliey allained s me.lres 20 centimclres. They rcai-hed 
 the second slories of (he houses on (be Quai SI. Hernard. The 
 Bibliolheque lininiriale preserves a volume that lloated into a 
 window of a 2d story 011 that quay. It is entitled, Antiquites, 
 fondations, singularites des villes, chateaux, et royaumes, I6O5. 
 
 21 
 
322 TWELFTH WALK: 
 
 The offices of the Caisse ties Retraites, and of the Dotation 
 tie VArmee, are also lierc, (see p. 63 n.) Next to it are large 
 liarracks for cavalry, formerly the Hotel des Gardes-dii-Corps, 
 built by Napoleon, and beyond these the 
 
 Palais du Quai d’Orsav. — This magnificent edifice, begun 
 under Napoleon I., continued in 1830, when Charles X. in- 
 tended it for the exliibition of French manufactures, and com- 
 pleted by M. Lecorday, under Louis Philippe, comprises a 
 vast central court, and two lateral ones. Towards the river 
 the front presents aline of 19 windows, separated by engaged 
 Tuscan, Ionic, and Corinthian columns. The lower story 
 is flanked with gardens. The front facing the rue de Lille 
 contains the chief entrances to the Conseil d’Etat and the 
 Goar des Comptes ; and here we see a fine marble statue of 
 Tronchet first president of the Court of Cassation in 1806, 
 by Ferrat. The central court is surrounded by a double 
 series of arcades with Doric and Ionic pilasters ; the lower 
 frieze is inlaid with various-coloured marbles. Of the stair- 
 cases in this building the most remarkable is that entered 
 from a vestibule in the western wing. The ceiling of 
 this staircase is richly decorated, but the walls indifferently 
 ])ainted by M. Chasseriau. Those of the first flight are en 
 (frisaillc, representing Silence, Meditation, and Study. 
 Tlie first landing-place is only remarkable for two old in- 
 scriptions, relating to the first institution of the Cour ties 
 Comptes. The walls of the second flight represent seve- 
 rally Captives taken in war, and Order providing means of 
 defence. The front wall of the second landing-place has alle- 
 gorical figures of Force and Order ; its lateral walls represent 
 Justice and Order repressing abuses, and Commerce pro- 
 moting the intercourse of nations. The walls of the third and 
 last flight represent Peace protecting Agriculture and the Arts. 
 This staircase opens into the galleries of the first story, com- 
 municating with the Hall of Audience for the Court of Ac- 
 counts, which has a most elaborate ceiling of timber- work, and 
 portraits of Baibe-Marbois, Pasquier, L’Hopital, and Nicolai, 
 four uf the most eminent Presidents of the Court. On the wall 
 opposite the windows are two paintings by Alaux, one repre- 
 senting St. Louis with Justice and Wisdom; the other, Napo- 
 leon I. with War and Art. In the ceiling arc three compart- 
 ments, painted by Bezard, with Wealth, Justice, and Labour. 
 There is also a beautiful chimney-piece of white marble, with 
 two caryatides supporting a clock. The ground-floor, facing 
 flic river, is appropriated to the sittings of the Council of 
 Stale, and is visilde to strangers. The visitor is first in- 
 roduced into the Salle ties Pas Perdiis, an elegant square 
 
mula'cie iv^ingTO iFiBOBj tmie eoajiHT.) 
 
PALAIS DU QUAI D’oRSAY. 323 
 
 apartment, in which four rich Doric columns, with spiral 
 t flutes and cablings, sustain a balustrade opening into a ves- 
 ; tibule of the upper story, lit by a skylight. The coves of 
 I this vestibule are painted liy Gendron in twelve compart- 
 ments, the central ones representing Dawn, Morning Noon 
 and Evening, and the others. Childhood, Youth, Manhood’ 
 
 [ and Old Age. A door to the left opens laterally into the 
 vestiaire, where the Councillors of State put on their 
 uniforms richly embroidered with gold. The first saloon is 
 the balle au Ccmite du Commerce, which contains a fine 
 view of the Port of Marseilles, by Isahey. Next comes the 
 Salle da Comite de Legislation, of the Corinthian order 
 remarkable for an elaborate ceiling, with tie and cross beams 
 supported by gilt caryatides. Two large paintings, opposite 
 the windows, represent, the first, Justinian, and the other 
 Moses, by Marigny. On each side of the entrance are two 
 more, the one, Solon dictating his laws, by Dom Papetv • 
 tbe other Numa and Egeria, by Murat. An antechamher 
 leads hence to the Salle des Seances Admmistrati>^es a 
 saloon of extraordinary splendor, decorated with 20 Corin- 
 thian columns of white marble, formerly intended for the 
 palace of the King of Home on the Trocadero (see p. l9o ) 
 This hall has portraits of Richelieu, Colbert, d’Agues- 
 seau, Suger, Turgot, Cambaceres, Sully, I’Hopital, Portalis 
 and Vauban, by the best living masters. The coved’ 
 ceiling is richly gilt in compartments, and contains five 
 paintings of Commerce, Agriculture, the Charter of 1830 
 Justice, and Truth, in large medallions. Opposite the centra’l 
 window IS Napoleon I. as a legislator, painted by Flandrin. 
 In the tympaiis of the arches intersecting the coves are 
 13 medallions, with portraits of Mathieu Dumas, Fourcroy 
 Boulay de la Meiirthe, St. Jean d’Angely, Fermon, Bi°ot de 
 Preameneu, Cuvier, .Taubert, Treiliiard, Dessoles, Merlin 
 Louis, and Moiinier. The Salle du Comite de I’Interieur re’ 
 raarkable for four Corinthian columns of granite, gives acces’s to 
 the Salle du Comite des Gvdces, in which is a paintiii" bv 
 Gassies, representing the arrest of President Brisson in” tlie 
 time of the League. Hence the visitor proceeds through another 
 Salic des Pas Perdus, similar to the former, the coves of which 
 painted by Gendron, represent, in medallions. Law, Equitv’ 
 Vigilance, and Strength. On the lateral walls of the gallery 
 are tvyo frescoes, representing Vintage and Maryest, which are 
 best viewed from the upper story. Next follows the Salle du 
 Contentieux, of Doric architecture, in which are portraits of 
 Count Simeon, and Gen. Allain, by Lemaire, over the doors- 
 also President Mathieu Mole pacifying the Parisian people, and 
 
324 TWELFTH WALK.. 
 
 President Harlay attacked at Blois, both by Thomas. The 
 third painting, by Delaroche, represents President Diiranti of 
 Toulouse assassinated in a convent where he had fled for 
 safety. The coves of the ceiling at the extremities have been 
 painted by M. Benedict Masson. The subjects aie, at one 
 end, Time between figures of Study and Eloquence, Human 
 Pro°'ress promoted by Navigation, and Genius uncovering the 
 Sphynx. At the other. Truth, .lustice, the Laws, War, and 
 Peace. This suite ends with a Salle cV Attente, adorned with 
 a pictii-e of Justice. This edifice cost 11,340,000 fr. For 
 permission to view the interior apply at the portei s lodge be- 
 tween 9 and 1 1 daily. A fee is expected. 
 
 Immediately west of this palace, in the rue de Lille, is the 
 Hotel, de la LEgion d’Honneur.— This edifice was built in 
 17 86, after the designs of Rousseau, for the Prince de Salm, 
 whose name it bore. (1) The entrance presents a triumphal arch 
 flanked by double rows of Ionic columns on either side. The 
 attics of the lateral pavilions are adorned with bas-reliefs. A 
 peristyle, ornamented with Ionic columns and busts extends 
 kong the sides of the court to the principal front, which is 
 decorated with six Corinthian columns. On the front is the 
 inscription — iionneur et patrie. Above are two colossal 
 eagles. In the centre of the front towards the Quai 
 d’Orsay is a circular projection with columns, which sup- 
 ports a balustrade crowned by six statues. The in- 
 terior is rich, and the principal saloon, a rotunda 40 
 feet in diameter, looks on the river. It is inhabited by the 
 Grand Chancellor of the Order (see page 61). 
 
 Westward along the Quai d’Orsay, which overlooks one 
 of the finest wharves of the city, stands the 
 
 Pont de la Concorde.— This bridge was built in 1787-90, 
 by Perronnet, at a cost of 1,200,000 livres. Part of the stone 
 employed was obtained from tlie demolition of the Bastille. 
 It consists of five elliptical arches ; the total length of the 
 bridge is 461 feet, its breadth is 61 feet. The parapet is formed 
 by a balustrade, divided by plinths. One of the piers bears 
 a vertical scale of 29 J4 feet. (2) The Boulevaid St. Germain 
 has been begun here, the corner-house, just finished, being 
 intended for the Cercle Agricole (see p. 14). Opposite is the 
 Palace of the Legislative Body, formerly Palais Bour- 
 bon, Begun ill 17 22, by Girardini, for- Louise Fraiicoise, 
 
 (1) The Prince de Satin having been beheaded in i792, his 
 hotel was disposed of by lottery, and a hair-dresser won it. In 
 1803 the hotel was devoted to its present purpo.--e. 
 
 ( 2 ) Tliis bridge was originally called Pont Louis XM., from the 
 place opposite; in i792 it was named Pont de la Revolution, 
 
PALACE OF THE LEGISLATIVE BODY. 325 
 
 Duchess-dowager of Bourbon, and continued by Mansard. The 
 Prince cle Conde enlarged it, at a cost of 20 millions of francs, 
 but it was not terminated when the revolution broke out in 
 17 89. It was one of the first mansions plundered, and re- 
 mained unoccupied till 1795, when the Council of Five Hun- 
 dred held its sittings in the pavilion opposite the bridge, the 
 rest being appropriated as a residence for the president. It 
 was afterwards occupied by the Corps Legislatif. In 1814 
 the palace was restored to the Prince de Conde, a part only 
 being reserved for the Chamber of Deputies. In 1829 it was 
 purchased for 5,500,000 francs. On the melancholy death of 
 the Duke de Bourbon, in 1830 (1), this palace devolved by 
 will to the Duke d’Aumale ; and that part used by the Duke 
 de Bourbon was leased to the Chamber of Deputies for their 
 president ; but eventually the whole was bought for the Cham- 
 ber, to which the National Assembly succeeded in 1848. 
 
 Exterior. — An iron railing with two gates gives access to 
 the edifice from the bridge, the facade of which, built in 1804, 
 hyPoyet, consists of 12 Corinthian columns, resting on a broad 
 flight of 29 steps, and supporting a triangular pediment 
 measuring 95 feet at the base by 17 feet altitude. An allego- 
 rical bas-relief by M. Cortot adorns the tympan; it represents 
 France standing on a tribune, holding the Constitution in her 
 right hand. The figure of France is 14 feet high. At her sides 
 are Force and Justice; to the left is a group of figures personi- 
 fying Navigation, the Navy, the Army, Manufactures, Peace, 
 and Eloquence; on the right, are Commerce, Agriculture, the 
 Arts, and the rivers Seine and Marne. On the west of the 
 portico is a bas-relief by Bude, on the east one by Pradier. 
 At the foot of the steps there are colossal statues of Justice and 
 Prudence, 18 feet high; and in front are figures of Sully, 
 Colbert, ITIopital and d’Aguesseau. On the side of the Place 
 Bourbon a lofty gateway, connected by Corinthian porticos 
 with two lateral pavilions, leads into the principal court (2) . 
 The iron railings between the columns were fixed after the 
 
 then Pont de la Concorde in isoo. At the Restoration it resumed 
 its original name, which Avas again changed in isso. 
 
 (1) The duke was found, on Aug. 27 , i830, suspended by liis 
 cravat from the bolt of a window of his bed-room, at the Chfiteau 
 de St. Leu, and from his age, 74, and his weak state of health, 
 it was considered improbable that he could have accomplished 
 his own desiruclion. 
 
 (2) Hero an uncouth temporary building Avns erected by the 
 Provisional Government of 1 848 for the Constituent Assembly. 
 It wiis built in 45 days; over the entrance were figures of 
 Liberly, Equality, and Fraternity. Over the President's chair 
 were the words : Republique Frangaise.^Liberte, Egalite^ Fra-" 
 
TWELFTH WALK. 
 
 326 
 
 attempt of May 15, 1848, by way of precaution against similar 
 couj)S de main. (I) The building has several courts; the 
 principal one is adorned with two white marble statues, by 
 Guayrard. The one to the right represents France holding 
 the national flag, and depositing the ticket of universal suffrage 
 in an urn; that to the left represents Strength spreading abun- 
 dance around her, while her right hand rests on .lustice. Both 
 figures are seated. The buildings contain a post and telegraph- 
 office, those of the questure, and habitations for the officials. 
 
 Interior. — The visitor is introduced by a side door on the 
 west of the portico, into the Salle des Quatre Colonnes, of 
 Corinthian architecture, with niches and statues, which leads 
 to the Salle de la Paix, ornamented witii a Laocoon, a Vir- 
 ginius, and a statue of Minerva in bronze. The ceiling is 
 painted by M. Horace Vernet. The Hat rectangular soffit in 
 the centre contains in three compartments allegorical figures 
 of Agriculture, Steam-navigation, and Terrestrial Steam-loco- 
 motion. The coves surrounding this central portion, painted 
 in Louis Philippe’s time, represent the balustrades that run 
 along the roof of the Palais Bourbon ; here are seen, crowding 
 to witness the ceremony of opening the Chambers by the 
 King, ambassadors, members of the Cour Boyale, Peers, and 
 the members of the University ; the royal cortege is not visible, 
 but its presence may be guessed from the attitudes of the 
 spectators. The above is painted in four compartments, 
 separated by allegorical figures of Science, Manufactures, the 
 Fine Arts, and Agriculture. 
 
 From this hall a passage leads to the Salle da Trune, 
 
 ternite. It was taken down in 1851. Tlie Constituent Assembly 
 of 1848 consisted of 900 members. 
 
 (i) Under the pretext of “ petitioning” the Constituent Assem- 
 bly (which bad met for the first time on May 4, i848) in favour 
 of Poland, the socialist party got up a procession on the i5tb of 
 the same month, and marched, to the number of about 80 ,ooo, 
 to the Palais Bourbon, headed by banners, and crying, ‘‘Vive la 
 Pologne, Vive la R^publiqiie, Vive Louis Blanc !” The gales were 
 closed, but the portico was soon scaled, and an immense 
 multilude inundated the hall of the National Asseinhly. Notwith- 
 standing their astonishmeni, the representatives remained 
 seated, maintaining a dignified silence, while the president was 
 driven from bis chair, and a multitude of demagogues addressed 
 the Assembly in the midst of an indescribable uproar, summon- 
 ing it to vote the re-constitulion of Poland eilher by negotiation 
 or the force of arms. Blanqui, Barh5s, and Baspail were 
 the only orators listened to. At length, after the uproar 
 had lasted full three hours, Huber mounted on the presi- 
 dent’s table, and declared in a stentorian voice that the Assembly 
 was dissolved, and a provisional government established. Tbe 
 
I’ALACE OF THE LEGISLATIAE BODY. 327 
 
 ])aintO(l by Delacroix, with figures of tlic Itbiao, llhoiio, Seine, 
 Garonne, Sabne [Arar], and Loire, the Ocean, and the Medi- 
 terranean. The Salle Casimir Pericr is tlie vestibnio of the 
 principal entrance. There are here statues of Pericr, by 
 Duret ; Bailly on his way to execution, and Mirabeau, 
 both by Jaley ; and Foy, by Desprez. Over the entrance 
 and the opposite door are fine bas-reliefs by Triqueti. Ad- 
 joining it is the Salle des Distributions, where the De- 
 ' puties receive the reports of committees, motions of the 
 Chamber, 6cc. The ceiling of this saloon, pierced witli a 
 skylight, is painted in grisaille by Abel de Pujol, and 
 represents in different compartments the Salic Law, the 
 Capitulaires of Charlemagne, the Edict of Nantes, and tlie 
 Charter of 1830, in allegorical figures. We are next con- 
 ducted to the Antechamber of the Library, containiii"- 
 statues of Cicero and Demosthenes, and paintings of Mazeppa'i^ 
 by Horace Vernet, Philip Augustus ordering the completion 
 of the Old Louvre, by Mauzaisse; the Square of St. Mark, bv 
 .Toyant ; and Dagobert, by Gue. We now enter the Salle 
 des Conferences, painted by Heim ; on one side is represented 
 Louis le Gros, attended by his Minister, the Abbe Suger, 
 and the Seigneurs de Garlaude, presiding at an assembly ot 
 bishops, counts, and barons, occupied iu drawing up the'^ or- 
 dinances for the enfranchisement of the Commons in 1136 ; 
 on the other is Louis XII. , presiding at one of the first sit- 
 tings of tlic Cour des Comptes. In the latter the artist has 
 availed himself of a miniature of that time. At the extremities 
 of the salle are medallions, one representing Charlemagne, 
 surrounded by the princes and nobles of France, causing to be 
 read to the people his “Capitulaires,” which served as the 
 basis of French legislation. The other represents the people 
 applauding St. Louis for the public regulations he instituted 
 prcidous to his departure for Afidca. Other medallions in 
 
 representatives were then driven out of the hall, and insulled 
 witli the most opprobrious cpilhels, while the intruders, seizing 
 pens and paper, began writing lists of the names of those whom 
 llicy deemed worthy of forming a provisional government. But 
 after a wliile piquets of National and Mobile Guards arrived and 
 cleared tlie hall at the point of the bayonet. Another parly of 
 insurgents had meanwhile taken possession of the Motel dc Ville, 
 and decreed a provisional government, composed of Barhes, 
 Ledru-UoUin, Louis Blanc, Alherl, Thore, Btanqui, Gabel, Ra.s- 
 ^ pail, I'locon, Leroux, Caussidicre. But by this time upwards of 
 100,000 men of National Guards were underarms; the National 
 Assembly was re-instated that very evening in i(s ball, and de- 
 clared ilselt cn permanence. The ringleaders were arrested the 
 same day, and precautions taken against any future attempts. 
 
328 twelfth walk. 
 
 grisaille contain portraits of Suger, I’Hopital, Sully, Colbert, 
 Montesquieu, 8cc.; the remaining figures are allegorical of 
 Justice, Agriculture, etc. In escutcheons are “ Code Napo- 
 leon” and “Charte de 1830.” This Saloon also contains a 
 tine statue of Henry IV., some flags taken from the Austiians 
 during the Empire, and paintings of the Siege of Calais, by 
 Schctfer ; President Mole, by Vincent, and Philip IV. opening 
 the States General, by Vinchon. There is a beautiful chimney- 
 piece in white marble ornamented with figures of Fame and 
 Ptistory, by Moine. 
 
 The Legislative Hall, formerly the Chamber of Deputies, (1) 
 is entered by a side door in the above-mentioned passage. It 
 is a semicircular hall, ornamented with 24 columns of single 
 blocks of white marble of the Ionic order, having capitals of 
 gilt bronze. The president’s chair is situated in the centre of 
 the axis of the semicircle, around which rise in gradation 500 
 
 (1) It was in this hall the Duchess of Orleans made her ap- 
 pearance with her two sons, the Count of Paris and tlie Duke of 
 Chartres, on Feb. 24, 1848 , having traversed on foot the space 
 ■which separates the Chamber from the Tuileries, while Louis 
 Philippe was hastening from Paris in the direction of St. Cloud. 
 She entered the Chamber at half past i p.m., and took her seat 
 on an arm-chair which had been provided for her, in the small 
 circular space before the tribune, while her sons sat on chaiis 
 on each side of her. M. Dupin addressed the Chamher, announc- 
 ing the abdication of Louis Philippe, and moving that the depu- 
 ties should proclaim the Count of Paris King of the French, 
 under the regency of the Duchess of Orleans. M. Marie. M. La- 
 martine, M. Arago, and other deputies here rose to oppose the 
 motion ; hut M. Sauzet, the president, attempted to slop them by 
 declaring the Count of Paris duly proclaimed. M. de Lamartine 
 however moved that the discussion should be continued without 
 the presence of any members of the royal family- Here a sudden 
 tumult was heard outside ; two persons hastily snatched up the 
 young princes in their arms, and, followed by tbe Duchess, tried 
 to reach first the door to the left, and next the central one ; but 
 the passage was crowded with people from without. The Duchess 
 and her children resumed their seats, while some ot the s'.rangers 
 pen^ti'ated into tho hemicycle, notwithstanding the entreaties of 
 the president to allow the members of the Royal family to leave 
 the place. Again the Duchess attempted to depart by the central 
 door, preceded by the Dukes of Nemours and Montpensicr, and 
 again she was stopped, and obliged to sit down with her sons on 
 the uppermost bench of the right centre. The crowd of intruders 
 increased. MM. Marie and Cr^mieux spoke successiveH, deny- 
 ing the power of the Chamber to change the law of the regency 
 which entrusted that important charge to the Duke of Nemours, 
 and concluded by proposing the nomination of a provisional 
 government. This was strenuously opposed by M. Odilon Barrot, 
 and the Duchess of Orleans herself attempted to spiak, but 
 
329 
 
 PALACE OF THE LEGISLATIVE BODY. 
 
 seats, (0 to the height of the basement which supports the 
 columns. The whole is fitted up in crimson velvet and gold. (2) 
 The stylobate behind the president's chair is ornamented with 
 a fine bas-relief, by Coutant, representing France distributing 
 rewards to the Arts and Manufactures. In the intercolumnia- 
 tions are placed statues of Order and Liberty, by Pradici- ; and 
 above the entablature are statues by Allier, Foyatier, Du- 
 mont, and Despres, of Reason, Justice, Prudence, and Elo- 
 quence. 
 
 The desk of the president is adorned with a beautiful bas- 
 relief, by Lemot, representing Fame and History, standing 
 before a double plinth adorned with the head of Janus in a 
 medallion. In compliance with the spirit of the decree of 
 January 19lh, 1807, the tribune, suppressed since 1852, 
 from which orators addressed the Chamber, has now been re- 
 placed in front of the President s desk, and galleries for the 
 public have been constructed in addition to those already 
 existing under the Ionic portico. Ample accommodation is 
 provided for the Imperial Family, the Diplomatic Body, 
 and officers of state (3). The semi-cupola of the hall is 
 ornamented with arabesques, by Fragonard. Each deputy 
 has a desk to himself ; the Minister of State, the President 
 of the Council of State, and the Ministers delegated by the 
 Emperor to speak in the name of the Government have their 
 seats facing the Chamber (4). 
 
 The Library of the Legislative Body consists of about 
 C5,000 volumes. This collection, which, besides comprising 
 
 was hushed by her friends. A crowd of armed men now 
 rushed in ; M. Ledru-Rollin ascended the tribune, declared 
 that Louis Philippe having abdicated his authority had ceased 
 to be King, and could not transmit the crown without an ap- 
 peal to the people. Great confusion ensued, and lasted about 
 three hours, during which the Duchess succeeded in making 
 her escape. She retired to the Hotel des Invalides, and quitted 
 Paris the next morning. 
 
 (t) There were 459 Deputies under Louis Philippe; the pre- 
 sent number is 283 since January 1863. 
 
 ( 2 ) Over the president’s chair there was a large painting, by 
 Court, representing Louis Philippe swearing to the Charter in 
 the Chamber of Deputies on the 9th of August, 1830. 
 
 (3) For tickets apply to an ambassador, a deputy, or the 
 Quesiure of the Chamber. 
 
 (4) Under Louis Pbilippe one half of the lower bench of the 
 deputies was reserved for the Ministers. At the opening and 
 close of the Session a throne occupied the place of the chair 
 and tribune. 
 
330 TWELFTH WALK. 
 
 all the documents relative to the legislature of Fraice, con- 
 tains a series of historical works, some of great rarit\, is cele- 
 brated for possessing the original MSS. of the Noujelle He- 
 lot se, and tlie Confessions, of Rousseau. It is eniiched by 
 tiie complete scries of English Parliamentary Reports, Paipers, 
 6cc., as a periodical interchange of papers takes place between 
 the Parliaments of France and England. The Lib-ary is a 
 long gallery, with a richly-vaulted ceiling, painted by Dela- 
 croix. For admission, apply to the secretary. Tie palace 
 may be visited daily from 9 to 5, but during the Session from 
 t) to 11 only. A fee is expected. 
 
 South of the Palais Bourbon is the “ Place” of ;hc same 
 name. In the centre is a marble statue by Feuchcris, repre- 
 senting Law, seated on the chair of Justice, her r "lit hand 
 holding a sceptre with the Eagle, and her left resting on the 
 Code. Oil the pedestal is the following incription 
 
 Logis lianc cffigicni, fclicilcr iniixa’antc Napoleoiie 111., impa'ii doiniisq. 
 Inipei'aloria) Minisler ponendain curavit, anno MUCCCLV. 
 
 The other sides of the pedestal are charged with devices in 
 bas-relief, allegorical of Justice and Wisdom, and with the 
 imperial eagle. From .Tune 1848 to December 1851, this spot 
 was occupied by a colossal statue of the Republic in plaster. 
 
 The Palace of the Pkesidext of the Legislative Body, 
 formerly called the Hotel Lassay, is at No. 12 8, rue de 
 rUniversile. It is in the style of the Renaissance. To view 
 the Gallery of Paintings it contains, apply in writing for 
 tickets. Adjoining this is the 
 
 Hotel of the Minister of Foreign Affairs, the first 
 stone of which was laid in 1845, by M. Guizot, and which 
 has cost 5 millions of francs. The principal front is on the 
 Quai d’Orsay, and consists of two pavilions connected by 
 an intermediate body of the Doric and Ionic orders. Tlie 
 whole facade is profusely sculptured. The western pa- 
 Aulion is connected with a plainer building, wdiich reaches 
 to the rue de I’Universite, containing the offices of the minis- 
 try. An elegant iron railing with two gateways encloses a 
 spacious court with flower-beds in front of the edifice. 
 
 Proceeding westward, the lisitor will find the 
 
 Pont des Invalides, a stone bridge with four arches of 100 
 feet span, replacing a suspension-bridge opened in 1 829. It has 
 cost 800,000 fr. The balustrades are of cast-iron, and the foot 
 of the central pier is decorated with two statues ; that towards 
 the Pont de la Concorde representing Navigation, and that on 
 the contrary side, Peace. Opposite is the new Avenue de la 
 Tour Maubourg. The fine hotel at the corner belongs to M. 
 de Montesquieu. Further on, at No. 63, is the 
 
^rANUFACTURE IMPEUIALE DES TABACS. 331 
 
 Manufacture iMPiiiuAi.E ues Taracs— The French go- 
 vernment having the inonopoly of tobacco and snuff for a 
 term of years fixed l)y law, this, the central eslaldishmeut 
 for the preparation of those articles, is organized on an ex- 
 tensive scale, and has besides a branch at Charenton, A 
 court, enclosed by the smithy and warehouses, leads to the 
 rooms where the tobacco is undone by women, who are paid 
 at the rate of 3fr. 6 c. per loo kilos., laid out in heaps, and 
 moistened with salt water, after which it is left to ferment 
 at a temperature of about 160 Fahr. Further on, the leaves 
 so prepared during 24 hours are stripped of their stalks, 
 and the blades separated from their spines. This hard stuff 
 is partly used for soldiers’ tobacco {(abac do cantine), and 
 partly manufactured into paper for cigarettes. A steam- 
 engine by Farcot, of 200 horse power, communicates 
 motion to a variety of machinery above. A long 
 gallery on the second story displays a row of ten chop- 
 ping-machines, fed from behind by men who shovel the pre- 
 pared tobacco-leaves into oscillating funnels, through which 
 they descend to the chopper in a highly compressed state. The 
 produce is tobacco ready for smoking. The next room con- 
 tains 3 2 snuff-mills, fed from above through canvas gullets ; a 
 main horizontal shaft, a foot in diameter, turns as many ec- 
 centrics as there arc mills, communicating by straps with 
 levers that give the perpendicular mill-shafts an alternate cir- 
 cular motion. The produce falls upon a broad canvas strap 
 moving horizontally upon rollers, and is thus carried to four 
 sieves; the snuff is sifted, and falls into troughs below; the 
 coarser snuff is rejected, and transported by the former process 
 to a pit, from whence a bucket-engine carries it to the third 
 story. Here it returns to the mills below by means of a 
 long Archimedes’ screw. In the next room on this story is a 
 machine tor cutting labels ; and on descending, other rooms 
 are seen, where cigars are manufactured by women, Avho arc 
 paid at the rate of 1 fr. 25 c. per 2 50 cigars, or a kilo. Next 
 is the drying-room, where tobacco ready cut is exposed in 
 large troughs to the action of a gentle heat. Two rooms for 
 pig-tail come next, where it is spun like hemp, from the de- 
 licate quill-diamcter patronized by the Parisian habitue of the 
 Closene des Lilas, to the thick rope that forms the solace of 
 the Havre marin. None but the best quality is employed in 
 tbis brancli. The visitor will admire the celerity with which 
 the men in the parcel-room weigh the tobacco, pack and label 
 it. They earn 4 fr. 40 c. per 1600 parcels; 700 parcels weigh 
 150 kilos, and will fill a cask. The number of persons em- 
 ployed here is 1,900, viz., 1,500 females, and 400 men and 
 
TWELFTH WALK. 
 
 332 
 
 boys. A man will earn from 3 fr. to 4 fr. a-day ; a woman, if 
 clever, may earn 2 fr. 50 c. per day. There are 17 manufac- 
 tories in France all depending from this, the central one. 
 The net annual profit on the tobacco monopoly is about 
 17 o, 000 , 0 .,ofr. There are about 500 licensed tobacconists in 
 Paris. Admission on Thursdays from 10 to 4. 
 
 Adjoining is the Pompe d feu du Gros Caillou, established 
 by Messrs. Perrier in 17 86, for supplying houses on the left 
 bank with water. There are also baths on the premises. 
 
 Opposite the Pont de I’Alma (see p. 188) at the corner of 
 the new Avenue du Champs de Mars, we see the 
 
 Imperial Stables, a new edifice, comprising four courts 
 and a garden, with a riding-school fronting the principal 
 court. The stables are situated right and left, flanking the 
 riding-school, and may contain 300 horses, forming three 
 categories, viz., post, carriage, and saddle-horses. The stalls 
 are of oak, each being provided with an iron rack and stone 
 manger. One of the secondary courts contains the coach- 
 houses for common. State, and historical carriages, including 
 among the latter those used at the coronations of Napoleon I. 
 and Charles X. In the adjoining court there is the infirmary, 
 and the rest of the buildings comprise 130 apartments, large 
 and small, for the Imperial equerries, grooms, and coachmen. 
 To visit this establishment, apply to M. /e Premier heuyer 
 de S. M. VEmpereur, at the Tuileries. 
 
 At No. 73 is the Magazine of Military Accoutrements, and 
 at No. 103 the Garde Meuble de la Couronne, where the 
 furniture of the Imperial palaces is kept. It communicates 
 through the court with the Ateliers de Sculpture, where 
 artists commissioned by Government execute their works. 
 Neither of these establishments is visible (1). 
 
 At No. 160, rue de FUniversite, is the Pharmade Centrale 
 des H6pitaux Militaires . At No. 188, rue St. Dominique, 
 we find a military hospital, founded by the Marechal de Biron 
 in 17 65, and containing 1,050 beds. Opposite stands the 
 Fontaine de Mars, erected in 1813. It has a bas-relief, 
 representing Ilygeia offering drink to an exhausted soldier. 
 Continuing to the left, we reach the church of 
 
 St. Pierre du Gros Caillou,— in the Tuscan style, 
 
 (i) The ground on ■which this building stands was once 
 an island called lie des Cygnes ; it formerly bore (he name of He 
 Marquerelle. In the massacre of St. Bartholomew’s day the dead 
 bodies of 1,200 persons, being considered unworthy of Christian 
 burial, were cast into the Seine, hut they collected at the lie 
 Marquerelle, and by putrefaction caused such an infection thqt 
 they had to he interred on the island. 
 
CHAMP t)E MARS. 333 
 
 firected in 1822 after the designs of M. Godde. The interior 
 is 1 GO feet in length by 7 0 in breadth ; and contains a nave 
 with two aisles, having chapels at each end, and a semicir- 
 cular recess for the high al tar. Thefrieze, painted in fresco by 
 La Riviere, represents Christ delivering the keys of Heaven to 
 St. Peter. Below this are a Holy Family, Christ at Eminaus, 
 by Janet Lange, and an Angel rescuing St. Peter from prison, 
 by Gaillot. There are also ; Christ preaching, Daniel among 
 the Lions, and the Baptism of Christ, by Desgoffe. 
 
 Opposite is the Hospice Leprince see p. 120). 
 
 The rue St. Dominique terminates at the 
 
 Champ de Mars — an immense oblong space between the 
 ficole Militaire and the Seine, of 3084 feet by 2290. It was 
 formerly bordered east and west by ditches formed, in 1790, 
 by the population of Paris, of both sexes and all ranks, for 
 the celebrated Fete de la Federation, which took place on the 
 14th of July, when an altar, called I’Autel de la Patrie, was 
 erected in the centre, and Louis XVI., seated in a superb am- 
 phitheatre in front of the Ecole Militaire, took his oath to 
 the new constitution. More than GO, 000 persons were 
 constantly at work till the embankments were completed. 
 Here Napoleon held the famous Champ de Mai, before the 
 battle of Waterloo ; and here too, in 1830, Louis Pliilippe dis- 
 tributed their colours to the National Guards. On the night 
 of the 14th June, 1837, during the rejoicings for the mar- 
 riage of the Duke of Orleans, 24 persons were suffo- 
 cated or trodden to death by the pressure of the crowd pass- 
 ing through the gates. On May loth, 1852, Louis Napoleon 
 distributed to the army the Eagles which were to replace the 
 Gallic Cock. This ground, commonly used for reviews and 
 manoeuvres, is now covered with the buildings and park of 
 the Great Exhibition (see page XI.) 
 
 At the southern extremity of the Champ de Mars is the 
 
 Fcoi.e Miutaire. — Louis XV., by an edict of 1751, founded 
 this school for the gratuitous education of 500 sons of poor 
 noblemen, preference being given to those who had lost their 
 fathei's in the field. A certain number of boarders were also 
 admissible into the school, on paying 2000 livres. It was 
 commenced in 17 52, after the designs of Gabriel. The prin- 
 cipal entrance is towards the place de Foiitenoy, and opens 
 into two courts, separated from each other by a railing. The 
 first, 420 feet square, is bordered right and left by barracks ; 
 the second, a square of 270 feet, is Hanked by two open 
 Doric galleries ending in the lateral pavilions of the front, 
 which are connected with the central pavilion by interme- 
 diate wings, two stories high, of Doric and Ionic architecture. 
 
334 TWELFTFI WALK. 
 
 The central pavilion is Corinthian, with a pediment sur- 
 mounted hy a quadrangular dome. A statue of Louis 
 XV., hy Lemoine, which stood in the inner court, was broken 
 to pieces in 17 89. The front toward the Champ de Mars, is 
 composed of a projecting Corinthian colonnade crowned with 
 a sculptured pediment and attic. The main l)uilding is 
 flanked hy two pavilions of Ionic design, and Cavalry and 
 Artillery barracks, surmounted by genii supporting the im- 
 perial escutcheon. In front of the dome is a clock hy Lepaute, 
 ornamented with figures of Time and Astronomy. On the first 
 floor is Ihc Salle duConseil, adorned with military emblems 
 and pictures. The chapel was formerly most magnificent, Imt 
 the valuable paintings which it once possessed were de- 
 stroyed in 17 89. At present it lias been restored to its 
 former use. The Duke de Choiseul ordered Lalande to esta- 
 blish an observatory here in 17 C8. It was suppressed shortly 
 afterwards, re-established in 17 88, and soon after delinitively 
 suppressed. The military school was closed in r’88. During 
 the revolution of 17 89, the Ecole Militaire was transformed 
 into barracks for cavalry ; Napoleon afterwards made it his 
 headquarters. It now forms barracks for about 6,000 men, 
 infantry, cavalry, and artillery, and occupies a space of 1408 
 feet hy 797. For permission to view the interior, rarely 
 granted, applj^ to M. le Commandant en Chef de la Garde 
 Tmperiale, d I’Ecole Militaire. Additional cavalry bar- 
 racks have been erected opposite, on the Place de Fontenoy. 
 
 At No. ?,0, in the avenue de Saxe, there is a Convent of 
 Carmelite nuns, with a handsome Gothic chapel ; and further 
 on, in the centre of the circular Place de Bretcuil, is the 
 
 Artesian Well of Crenelle. — Commenced in 1834, hy 
 M. Mulot, engineer, in the court of the Abattoir, and com- 
 pleted on the -16th of February, 1841, when the water hurst 
 out with inconceivable force, the boring instrument having, 
 after immense difficulties, penetrated to the depth of 1800 
 feet. The temperature of the water Avas 9,8'’ centigrade, or 
 89.4 Fahrenheit. The whole depth is lined with galvanized iron, 
 and the water rises to an altitude of 1 19 feel, yielding 170,940 
 gallons in 94 hours (1), which may he conveyed to the upper- 
 most story of any house in Paris. The pipe is 2 1 inches in 
 diameter at the surface, and 7 at bottom. Since September, 
 1858 the water has been horizontally conveyed to the centre 
 of the Place de Breteuil, where the present open-worked 
 
 (i) It used to yield i98,oOo gallons; but since llie Artesian 
 Avell at Passy has been bored (see p. i9i,) it has lost 27,oCo 
 gallons, showing that the supply of both wells is derived from 
 the same subterranean sheet of water. 
 
IKSTITUTION IMPERIALE DES JEUNES AVEUGLES. 33,-> 
 lower of bronzed cast-iron, 42 metres in height, and of ele- 
 gant design, encloses the ascension and distrihulion pipes, 
 which are all encased in a main cylinder. A winding stair- 
 case, visible from without, leads to the top, where a small 
 basin receives the waters conveyed by the two 'ascension pipes, 
 whence they descend into the distribution pipe. There is a 
 fourth pipe also contained in the main cylinder, to discharge 
 the water in case of repairs, there being space sufficient for a 
 man to got in between tlie pipes. The structure rests on a 
 circular basement of masonry, 14 metres in diameter, and 2 '/, 
 metres in altitude. A balustrade of cast iron runs all round 
 the base, and three more round the shaft and capital, which 
 IS crowned with a small cupola. The whole produces a very 
 pleasing effect. The weight of the cast-iron employed is 
 100,000 kilogrammes. Engineer, M. Delaperche. To view 
 the interior, and mount to the top, apply in person to the 
 Bureaux des Eaux, at the Hotel de Ville, for a ticket, and then 
 call at No. 74, Avenue de Breleuil. The exact spot where the 
 well was bored lies within the court of the 
 Abattoir de Grenelle, close by (see p. 27 G). 
 
 In the rue Duroc, a church is being built, under the 
 name of St. Francois Xavier, and extending from the Avenue 
 de Breteuil to the Boulevard des Invalides, where the chief 
 entrance will be. It is to contain 2 3 chapels, and occupy a 
 space of 100 metres by 35. Architect, M. Baltard. At the 
 opposite corner of the Boulevard des Invalides, No. 50, is the 
 Institution Isiperiaee des .Ieunes Aveugles. — This esta- 
 blishment originated in the benevolent exertions ofM. Valentin 
 Ilauy, who, being himself blind, in 17 84 opened a scboolfor 
 blind children. In 1791 it xvas created a royal institution by 
 Louis XVI. It occupied the buildings of Hie Seminaire St. 
 Firmin, in the rue St. Victor, but was removed in 1 843 to the 
 present splendid building, erected by the architect Philippon, 
 at a cost of 1,850,000 fr., and covering a space of 3,000 
 square metres. In the centre of the court stands a marble 
 statue of the founder in the attitude of teaching a blind youth, 
 executed by Badion de la Tronchere. In the bas-relief which 
 adorns the pediment over the entrance, by Jouffroy, Religion 
 is represented encouraging Ilauy and a blind female in their 
 efforts to instruct their pupils. The building has distinct 
 apartments for the males and females. The visitor is first 
 conducted to the right wing, occupied by the boys, and 
 witnesses successively their ability in brush-making, joinery, 
 turning, weaving, and basket-making, which is considered the 
 best employment for them, except music, for which they have 
 a peculiar aptitude, and which is here cultivated with the 
 
336 TWELFTH WALK. 
 
 Utmost care. On ascending the first story, he is introduced 
 to the school and music rooms, and next to the chapel, which 
 occupies the centre; it is ot the Ionic and Corinthian orders 
 combined, and consists of a nave and two aisles, with a gal- 
 lery above, and* a semicircular choir, painted by Lehmann ; 
 the subject’is Christ affording consolation to the blind. On the 
 second floor are the. dormitories, four for boys, and two for 
 girls, besides a supplementary one in case of necessity. 
 Dressing-rooms with tanks for water are contiguous to them. 
 Here also are the rooms of the Soeurs de Ste. Marie, that 
 attend in the infirmaries, w.dch are two in number, one for 
 each sex. A repetition of nearly the same rooms occurs on 
 the side of the girls, arran ed for occupations proper to their 
 sex. The refectories are furnished with long marble tables, 
 besides a long marble washing-basin with spouts, against the 
 wall, and occupy the ground-floor, together with the kitchens, 
 baths. Sec. All the professors are blind, and the establishment 
 reejuires hardly any aid of mechanics from without, nearly 
 every thing being manufactured by the inmates. Water is 
 supplied from the artesian well at Grenelle. The building is 
 heated by means of hot-water pipes, and lit with alcohol 
 mixed with a combustible liquid extracted from wood. A 
 gymnastic apparatus is constructed in the garden, and the in- 
 terior arrangements are admirably adapted for the health and 
 comfort of the pupils. The children, if received gratuitously, 
 must not be under 9 nor above 14 years of age, and are re- 
 quired to produce certificates of their birth, freedom from con- 
 tagious disease and idiotcy, as well as of their parents good 
 conduct and indigence. For boarders no age is fixed. Among 
 the elder pupils there are some excellent pianists and per- 
 formers on the most difficultinstruments. They have a print- 
 ing-office for the publication of books in relief, so that the 
 child, by merely moving its fingers along the lines, can read 
 with tolerable ease. The printers and compositors are all 
 blind. Every pupil besides has books written by himself 
 under dictation, by a process of pricking the paper which 
 produces conventional letters in relief on the paper. This 
 system, also used in print, was invented by M. Louis Braille, 
 a professor of the establishment, born blind, who died in 
 ISf)*?, and whose bust may be seen in the vestibule. Some 
 pupils excel in mathematics, and by the methods described can 
 put on paper very intricate calculations. In the Salle des 
 visitors will find a variety of articles for p.irchasc, 
 made by the inmates, some of them beautifully executed. At 
 present there are about 250 pupils, including 7 5 females. Tne 
 Government has allotted too purses of 800 fr. each for the 
 
HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 337 
 
 education of as many indigent pupils of either sex, and se- 
 veral benevolent individuals have endowed the establishment 
 in a similar way. On the last Saturday of every month 
 there is an examination of the pupils, at which strangers are 
 admitted with tickets, for which a written application must be 
 made to the director ; and four or five times a year there are 
 public concerts held in the chapel. For admittance, apply to 
 the Director or to the chief-instructor Wednesdays from 2 
 to 5 (1). 
 
 At No. 151, rue de Sevres, we find the 
 Hopital de Madame Necker, a building which was a con- 
 vent of Benedictine nuns until 177 5. In 177 9, at the sug- 
 gestion of the wife of the celebrated M. Necker, Louis XVI. as- 
 signed funds to convert it into an hospital. The chapel pos- 
 sesses two tine statues of Aaron and Melchizedek, in marble, 
 purchased for 1,200 fr. from an individual who discovered 
 them when digging the foundations of a house. This hospital 
 is visible on Thursdays and Saturdays from 1 to 3 (see p. 140). 
 Next door to this hospital, at No. 149, is the 
 Hopital des Enfans Malades. — On this spot existed a cha- 
 rity-school, called Maison de I'Enfant Jesus, which was pur- 
 chased, in 1732, by Languet de Gergy, rector of St. Sulpice, 
 and opened for the reception of poor girls and sick women of 
 his parish. It was afterwards converted into a school for the 
 daughters of poor noblemen, and in 1802 was formed into an 
 hospital for sick children. Strangers are admitted on Thurs- 
 days and Sundays, from 1 to 3 (see p. 142.) 
 
 THIKTEENTH ■WALK. 
 
 This lies entirely within the 7 th arrondissement. We may 
 commence it with the 
 
 Place Vauban, a semicircular space, fronted by the 
 
 ficLiSE DES Invalides. — This majestic Structure was built by 
 the architect Mansard, andflnished in 1706. A square mass, 
 138 feet in length, forms the body of the church. It is 
 divided into two stories, and in the centre of each front is a 
 projecting mass, with a pediment restingon composite columns. 
 The southern and principal front is composed of two rows of 
 columns, the lower of the Doric order, the upper of the Co- 
 rinthian. Niches on each side contain statues of St. 
 Louis and Charlemagne, and allegorical figures are also 
 
 (i) The number of blind in all France is slated to be about 
 39,000, be.sides 75,000 blind of one eye. 
 
 22 
 
33« THIRTEENTH WALK. 
 
 placed in front of the pilasters of the uj^er story. Above 
 this, resting on a cireular stylobate, rises the drum, which is 
 outwardly surrounded by 40 coupled composite columns; and 
 at the points corresponding to the angles of the lower stories 
 are eight projecting buttresses, finished with engaged columns. 
 An attic crowned with a balustrade, and adorned" with arched 
 windows, surmounts the drum, from within which springs the 
 dome; its surface is divided by 12 gilt ribs into as many 
 compartments, each adorned with trophies, arms, and other 
 devices, also gilt. The dome is surmounted by a lantern, with 
 a gilt spire, globe, and cross, making a totalheight of 323 feet. 
 
 On Mondays and Thursdays from 12 to 3, the public are 
 admitted to visit the 
 
 Interim'. — The interior is circular, with branches of a Greek 
 cross extending in the direction of the four cardinal points, 
 forming the nave and transepts, between which are four 
 circular chapels, each having three lofty arched entrances, 
 one of whicli faces the centre of the church, now' occupied 
 by a circular parapet surrounding the crypt which con- 
 tains the tomb of Napoleon I. Above this rises the dome, 
 resting on foui- main ai ches, in the pendentives of which are 
 paintings of the four Evangelists, by Delafosse and Lebrun. 
 The attic over the pendentives is adorned with 12 medallions, 
 containing portraits, in basu-elief, by Bosio, Taniiay, Rux- 
 Ihiet, and Cartelier, of Clovis, Dagobert, Pepin -le-Bref, Charle- 
 magne, Louis-le-Debonnaire, Charles-le-Chauve, Philip Augus- 
 tus, St. Louis, Louis XIL, Henry IV., Louis XllL, and Louis 
 XIV. (1) The attic is surmounted with a drum, pierced W'ith 
 1 2 arched windows, from the entablature of which springs 
 the first cupola, painted by Jouvenet, in 12 compartments, 28 
 feet in height by 1 1 in breadth at bottom, and 8 at top, re- 
 presenting the Apostles. The cupola ends in a circular cor- 
 nice 54 feet in diameter, through which we see the second cu- 
 pola, painted by Delafosse ; .St. Louis presenting his sw'ord to 
 Jesus surrounded by angels. This picture is 50 feet in dia- 
 meter, and contains upwards of 30 colossal figures. The 
 celling over the high altar is painted by Noel Coypel, and 
 represents the Assumption of Hie Virgin, and the Trinity, sur- 
 rounded by angels. Those l^dng on musical instruments, 
 which adorn the intrados of tl^^indows, are, to the right, 
 by Bon Boullongne ; to the 1»ft, by Louis Boullongne. — 
 Ohapels and Transepts. — Oveimhe entrances to the chapels 
 
 ( 1 ) At the revolution of liJitfBfe portraits wer.if, tiMnsfoi’inecl 
 into those of Grecian and RoMBj^Blosophers, with Voltaire and 
 Rousseau among them. Cpoit fSK'ing them, Pepin 1 ■ iiref was 
 substituted for Childeberf. ' 'fir 
 
TOMB OP NAPOLEON I. 339 
 
 are bas-reliefs, representing events in the life of St. Louis. 
 The chapel of St. Augustin, to the right on entering, is painted 
 by Louis Boullongne, with scenes from the life of that saint. 
 The bas-reliefs are by Plamant and Laprerie. In the centre 
 of the chapel stands the tomb of King Joseph of Spain, the 
 eldest brother of Napoleon I., and whose mortal remains 
 were transferred hither in March, 1864. It consists of a sar- 
 cophagus of black marble with white veins, resting on a 
 tasteful but simple basement. In the adjoining transept is a 
 monument to Vauban, consisting of a sarcophagus of black 
 marble, on which the figure of Vauban reclines ; behind it 
 is an obelisk bearing his arms and surrounded by trophies. 
 Two statues, representing Genius and Prudence, by Etex, 
 stand beside the hero. Next follows the chapel of St. Am- 
 brose, painted by Bon Boullongne, in six compartments, repre- 
 senting as many passages in the life of that saint. The cupola 
 represents his apotlieosis. The chapel opposite is enriched 
 with bas-reliefs and sculptures by Le Cointe and Paltier ; its 
 cupola, painted in six compartments by Michel Corneille, 
 represents passages of the life of St. Gregory. Next follows 
 the western transept, with a monument to Turenne, brought 
 here from St. Denis, composed by Lebrun and executed by 
 Tuby. The marshal is represented expiring in the arms of 
 Immortality. At the feet of the hero is the affrighted eagle 
 of the German Empire ; an obelisk rises behind. The 
 last chapel, dedicated to St. Jerome, 1ias paintings by Bon 
 Boullongne, of various incidents in the life of that saint. The 
 sculptures are by Nicolas Coustou. Here we find to the left 
 the tomb of King Jerome, a black marble sarcophagus resting 
 on clawed feet of gilt bronze, and surmounted by a statue of 
 the King, by Guillaume, partially enveloped in an ample 
 cloak, his right hand resting on his marshal's baton. At the 
 corners are two eagles supporting a laurel wreath, all of gilt 
 bronze. Next comes an altar, behind which we see a small 
 sarcophagus containing the heart of the Queen of Westphalia ; 
 and to the right a monument in the same style as that of the 
 King, and covering the mortal remains of the young Prince 
 Jerome. On one of the piers there is a marble monument to 
 Marshal d’Ornano. — The High Altar. — It is ascended by ten 
 steps of white marble ; the altar-table is of black marble, sur- 
 mounted by four spiral columns of the same material, black 
 and white, ^Wortii^^^jpanopy, all profusely gilt. AViuding 
 staircases oW^ther>p^of the high altar descend to the iron 
 railing communicating with the old church, opposite which 
 is the entrance to the crypt containing the 
 
 Tomb of Napoleon I . — This entrance is flanked by two 
 
340 THIRTEENTH WaLK:» 
 
 .iSarcophagi resting upon plinths, and surmounted by two Go- 
 / rinthian columns crowned with segmental pediments ; one 
 I is dedicated to Marshal Duroc, the other to Marshal Ber- 
 ! trand, the Emperor’s friends during his adversity, A bronze 
 door gives access to Ihe crypt; over it, on a black marble 
 slab, are the following words, quoted from the Emperor’s will : 
 
 “Je desire que mes cendres reposent sur les bords de la 
 Seine, au milieu de ce peuple Fran^ais que j’ai lant aim6.” 
 
 Two colossal bronze caryatides, by Duret, at the entrance, hold 
 the globe, sceptre, and imperial crown. A gloomy gallery, 
 running under the high altar, now leads to the crypt, dimly 
 lighted by funereal lamps of bronze, and adorned with bas- 
 reliefs, designed by Simart, and executed by Lanno, Petit, 
 and Ottin, representing ; 1. The Termination of Civil War ; 2. 
 tlie Concordat ; 3. the Reform of the Administration ; 4. the 
 Council of State ; 5. the Code; 6. the University ; 7. the Court 
 of Accounts ; 8. the Encouragement of Trade and Commerce ; 
 9. Public Works; 10. the Legion of Honour ; all due to the 
 energy of the late Emperor. The pavement of the crypt is de- 
 corated with a crown of laurels in mosaic, within which, on a 
 black circle, are inscribed the names of tm? following victories: 
 Rivoli, Pyramids, Marengo, Austerlrtz, lena, Friedland, Wag- 
 ram, audMoskowa. Twelve colossal statues, by Pradier, re- 
 presenting as many victories, stand against the pilasters, facing 
 the tomb, which consists of an immense monolith of porphyry, 
 weighing 135,000 lbs., and brought from Lake Onega in Finland 
 at a cost of 140,000fr. Its exquisite polish has been effected by 
 a powerful steam-engine. It covers the sarcophagus, also of a 
 j single block, 1 2 feet long and 6 in breadth, resting upon two 
 j plinths, which stand on a block of green granite, brought from 
 the Vosges. The total height is 1 3 '/^ feet. In tlie gallery which 
 i encircles the crypt is a recess, called the Chapelle Ardente, 
 
 : containing the sword the Emperor wore at Austerlitz, the in- 
 j signia he used to wear on state occasions, the crowm of gold 
 I voted by the town of Cherbourg, and the colours taken in 
 different battles. At the furthest end of the recess is the 
 statue of the Emperor in his imperial robes, due to the chisel 
 of Simart. This reliquaire is closed with gilt doors. The 
 crypt is only visil)le from the circular parapet above. The 
 marble of this monument has cost 2, 000 , 000 fr., and the whole 
 expense amounts to 9,000,000 fr. (1) 
 
 I In a vault beneath the pavemeni of the dome are deposited 
 
 (i) The mortal remains of Napoleon I. were solemnly trans- 
 ferred to tlie sarcopha^'us on the 2d of April, i86i. A medal 
 commeinoialive of the event, and offered hy the living rennanls 
 of the Grande Armee, was enclosed with the coffin. 
 
HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 341 
 
 the bodies of Marshal Mortier and the other 14 victims of 
 Fieschi’s attempt (see p. 253). 
 
 The small green esplanade in front of the southern porch was 
 formerly bounded by a fosse, over which a drawbridge served 
 , as an entrance for the king whenever he visited the church. 
 
 The stranger should now follow the Boidevard, which 
 lead> northward to the 
 
 Hotel des Invalides. — In I596j under the reign of Henry 
 ly., an asylum for invalids was formed in an old convent in 
 the Faubourg St. Marcel. This institution was removed to 
 Bicetre, hy Louis XHI. In 1670, during the administration 
 of Louvois, Louis XIV., by whose wars the number of invalids 
 was greatly increased, laid the foundations of the present 
 edifice ; the main building, as well as the first church, were 
 finished about 1706, by Bruant. The second church, de- 
 scribed above, was destined for the celebi-ation of festivals 
 and military anniversaries. The whole edifice now covers 
 enclosi ng 15 courts. In 1789 it took 
 the name ot temple de I’Hurfmnite; and during the turbulence 
 of that period was always respected. Under Napoleon it was 
 f - u f il/ars, and the number of its inmates was 
 
 uightfully increased, in 1815 it resumed its original title. 
 This magnificent institution is under the direction of the Mi- 
 nister of War. The staff of the establishment comprises ; 
 a marshal of France, a general of division, governor ; a ge- 
 neral of brigade, commander ; a colonel, major ; eight cap- 
 tains, adjutants. There is an administrative council com- 
 posed of 13 members, including three senators and the 
 commander. There are also one cure, two chaplains, one 
 chief physician, one chief apothecary and 10 assistants; 
 26 Sisters of Charity, and 260 servants of all kinds. The 
 Hotel is divided into 14 divisions, each of which has a 
 chief of division, an adjutant and sub-adjutant. The gover- 
 noi has 40,000 fr. per annum; the general-commandant, 
 15,000 fr.; the intendant, 12,000 fr., and the colonel-major, 
 7000 fr. All soldiers who are actually disabled by their 
 vvounds, or who have served 30 years, and obtained a pen- I 
 Sion, are entitled to the privileges of this institution. The I 
 whole of the invalids, amounting at the present moment to 
 koarded, lodged, clothed, &c. 
 the table service of the officers is of plate, the gift of Maria 
 Jjouisa. For meals, the inmates of the Hotel are divided into 
 three parties ; the hours of the first are 9 a.m. and 4 p. m.; 
 those of the second lo and 5 , and those of the third, con 
 nstiiig of the employes, half past lo and half past 5 . The 
 fcOldiers have for breakfast, soup, beef, and a dish of vego- 
 
THIRTEENTH WALK. 
 
 342 
 
 tables ; for dinner, meat or eggs, and vegetables ; cheese, on 
 Fridays. At each repast about a quarter of a pound of meat 
 is served to each man, who also receives a litre of wine 
 and 1 '/a pound of white bread daily ; the wine and bread are 
 of the same quality for all ranks of officers and men, but the 
 officers have an extra dish allowed. Each man has his bed, 
 straw and wool mattresses, and bolster, with a press for his 
 clothes. Strangers are strongly recommended to visitthe Invalides 
 at meal-time. In the distribution of meat, wine, and clothing, 
 if any person does not consume his allowance, he may receive 
 an equivalent in money ; and persons deprived of legs are al- 
 lowed money instead of shoes. The pay of the invalids for 
 minor expenses is according to the following scale per month ; 
 — private soldier, 3 fr. ; corporal, 4fr. 20 c. ; lieutenant, 
 without special duties, and sergeant, 5 fr. loc. ; sergeant- 
 major, 0 fr. ; captain, without special duties, 6 fr. ; adjutant, 
 7 fr. 20 c. ; sous-lieutenant, 10 fr. 50 c. ; acting lieutenant, 
 12 fr.; captain, I5fr. ; chef-de-bataillon, 21 fr. ; lieutenant- 
 colonel, 24 fr. ; colonel, 30 fr. The hotel will hold 5,000 in- 
 valids. They all wear the same uniform; their only duty, 
 conformably with their own request, is to mount guard in the 
 hotel. The number of officers is about 170. 
 
 Exterior . — The Hotel has a wide terrace in front, laid out 
 as a garden, and armed with a quantity of large guns taken 
 in battle, some of which are worth inspection. (1) 
 
 The front of the hotel is 612 feet in length ; it is divided into 
 four stories, and presents three pavilions. The central one 
 is decorated with Ionic pilasters, supporting an arch, on the 
 
 (l) The following is an exact list of Ihera : — Camion : Aiisirian, 
 one 48-pomider, and one 27; Prussian, eight 24; Dutch, two 
 24 ; Wirlemherg, one of 12 ; Venetian, one of 32. Long how- 
 itzers . two Russian of 0 . 20 . Mortars: two Algerine of 0.33. 
 There are also disposed on the right and left 20 guns, viz., 16 
 Algerian 24-pounders; 1 Chinese, 0.4 56 ; 1 Cochin-Chinese, 
 0 . 180 ; and 2 French, 42. The Ausli'ian 48-pounder was cast 
 at Vienna in 4684. On its chase is an eagle, with oufslrelched 
 wings, pouncing on a dolphin, darling ils Leak into the head 
 and its talons into the sides, and hearing the motto, “ CoiKpier 
 ur die.’’ The 27-pounder was cast in 1580 ; it has also a bird on 
 the chase, with the following motto in German : “ As soon as 
 my song resounds in the air, walls will fall to the earth before 
 me.” The eight Prussian guns were cast at Berlin in 4 70 8, by 
 order of Frederick 1., and were taken at Auslerlilz. Each gun 
 was dedicated to one of the Electors, whose likeness, in relief, 
 is on the chase. The two Dutch 24-pounders were taken in the 
 citadel of Antwerp in 1832. The Venetian 32 -poundershears the 
 arms of the Republic, and the Lion of St. Mark holding the 
 Golden Book. The two Russian howitzers came from Sebastopol. 
 
HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 343 
 
 tympan of which is a has-relief of Louis XIV. on horseback, 
 sculptured by Coustou, jun., and restored in 1816 by Car- 
 telier. On the pedestal is this inscription ; — 
 
 Ludovicus Magnus, militibus regali muniflcentia in per- 
 petuum providens, has cedes posuit An. M.DC.LXXV. 
 Statues of Mars and Minerva in bronze, by Coustou, jun., 
 adorn the entrance. The triangular pediments of the extreme 
 pavilions are adorned with military trophies, resting upon 
 attics. Their roofs are crowned by square terraces surrounded 
 with balustrades. The four bronze figures at the corners of 
 these pavilions, representing vanquished nations, by Desjar- 
 dins, formerly adorned the statue of Louis XIV. in the Place 
 des Vicioires ; they are 12 feet high, and were placed here in 
 1800. The dormar-windows represent military trophies, 
 consisting of a cuirass and helmet. The principal front has 
 two lateral gateways, and a central one leading into the Cour 
 d’Honneur, which is 313 feet long, 192 feet broad, and is 
 entered by a spacious and elegant vestibule. The galleries 
 surrounding the pourt are now receiving fine mural paintings 
 by M. Benedict Masson. They represent the ages of Charle- 
 magne, St. Louis, Louis XIV., and Napoleon I. The central 
 projection of the southern side, bearing in front a statue of 
 Napoleon I., is an Ionic and Corinthian colonnade, with 
 statues of Time and Study in the pediment, and crowned by 
 a campanile. The wings right and left are occupied by the 
 governor and his staff. The western part of the Hotel is 
 now converted into barracks for 2 ,oon infantry. 
 
 Library. — The library, founded by Napoleon, contains about 
 30,000 volumes on theology, jurisprudence, belles-lettres, and 
 strategy, and possesses manuscripts of Sully and Colbert, a fine 
 picture of Napoleon 1. ascending Mont St. Bernard, copied from 
 David, another of Napoleon III., by Laugier, and a model of 
 the Hotel itself. Next to the latter are two gilt candlesiicks 
 which belonged to Marshal Turenne, the cannon-ball (weighing 
 3 lb.) by which he was killed, and a small equestrian stafue of 
 that hero executed in gold and silver. In front of one of the 
 windows is a fine model of theColonne Vendome. The library 
 isopen from 9 to 3, except on Sundays and festivals. Books 
 cannot be consulted without a permission from the bureau, 
 
 Council-Chamber . — This is in the passage west of the li- 
 brary on the same floor. The SaJ/a d’Altaite contains a nu- 
 merous collection of miniature drawings of all the flags and 
 banners taken in war from the time of Henry IV. to the present, 
 besides the banners of many towns of France. Here also we 
 see a chalk drawing, in medallions, of various subjects re- 
 ating to the captivity of St. Helena, with leaves and other 
 
344 
 
 THIRTEENTH WALK. 
 
 relics of the place fixed on it, an elaborate work by Lieut. 
 Goy ; also the bron/e frame which surmounted the coffin 
 containing the ashes of Napoleon I. when brought over to 
 Paris in 1842. A piece of the wood of the coffin is set in 
 the base of this frame. In the adjoining Sulle des Marechaux 
 are portraits, by Vernier, of Marshals Bessieres, Suchet, Pe- 
 rignon, Augereau, Kellermann, de Broglie, Beurnonville, Due 
 de Bellisle, Lannes, Gouvion St. Cyr, Massena, Clarke, Mon- 
 cey, Lauriston, Ney, Brune, Lefebvre, Davoust, Oudinot, 
 Vidor, Daumesnil, Berthier, and Prince Eugene. On a pe- 
 destal we see a bronze statue of Louis XIV., and in a glass 
 stand the sword and bat of Napoleon I. The Salle du 
 Conseil contains portraits of the Governors of the Hotel des 
 Invalides, viz. Lemacon, Panat, Guibert, Sombreuil, who was 
 guillotined during the revolution of 17 89, Berruyer, Ser- 
 ruricr, Duke, de Goigny, Latour Maubourg, Jourdan, and Le- 
 tellier. There are three marble busts, one of Napoleon by F. 
 Bosio, another of LouisNapoleon by Emile Thomas, and one of 
 King Jerome, executed and presented to the Invalides by Count 
 d’Orsay ; a full-length portrait of Louis XIV. by Rigault, and 
 another of Napoleon by Ingres. Over the door are two me- 
 dallions, by Vernier, with portraits of Mansard, and Bruant, 
 the architects of the Hotel. 
 
 Dormitories. — These are on the first and second stories, 
 and consist of 12 spacious rooms, called the Salles Vauban, 
 d’Hautpoul, de Luxembourg, de Mars, d’Assas, de Latour 
 d’Auvergne, de Bayard, de Kleber, Moncey, Bertrand, Louvois, 
 and Molitor. They contain each from 50 to 55 beds. The 
 other rooms contain each from 4 to 8 beds. The infirmaries 
 are extensive and well ventilated. 
 
 Refectories and Kitchens. — In the piles of buildings to the 
 right and left, on entering the Cour d’Honneur, are four grand 
 refectories, or dining-rooms. Each of them is 150 feet in 
 length by 24 in breadth. One is devoted to the officers, and 
 the three others to the sub-officers and privates. They con- 
 tain some indifferent paintings in fresco, representing fortified 
 towns and places in Flanders, Holland, Alsace, Franche Comte, 
 Burgundy, &cc., conquered by Louis XIV. In each are 30 
 round tables, for messes of 12. There are two kitchens, one 
 for the officers, the other for the privates. The consumption 
 of the hotel is about 3,000 lbs. of meat and 60 bushels of 
 vegetables daily, cooked in different ways. 
 
 Galeries des Plans Reliefs des Forteresses de France. — This 
 is a collection of upwards of fifty plans in relief of the fortresses 
 of France, which occupies two long galleries on the 4th story, 
 connected by a tran^versfil gallery, west of the Cour d’Honncui-f 
 
HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 345 
 
 Here may be seen, in the proportion of 1 to 600, the models 
 of Perpignan, Cherbourg, Antibes, Strasburg, Bayonne, Belle 
 Isle, Oleron, St. Martin de Re, Ham, Villefranche in the Pyre- 
 nees, Dunkerque, Mont St. Michel, Besancon, 8cc. Several of 
 them occupy a space of from 220 to 240 square feet ; the houses, 
 rivers, the adjacent country, hills, mountains, etc., are exe- 
 cuted with great precision in wood, plaster, and other materials. 
 There are also models of the battle of Lodi, the last siege of 
 Rome, and that of Sebastopol. Open to visitors from May 
 15th to June 30th, with ticket, to be obtained by applying in 
 writing to M. le Gouverneur des Jnvalides. 
 
 Church. — The Eglise ancienne, which is separated from the 
 Dome (see p. 338), by an elegant railing, consists of a long nave, 
 and two lov aisles, supporting a gallery. It is Corinthian, 
 66 feet in height, and about 210 feet in length. Under the 
 windows banners taken from the enemy are ranged along 
 both sides of the arched nave (1). Most of the piers of the 
 nave bear inscriptions on marble, to the memory of the go- 
 vernors of the hotel, and of the Duke de Coigny, Marshal 
 Jourdan, Marshal St. Arnaud, &c. Two bronze tablets are 
 besides inscribed with other names, amongst which are those 
 of Marshal Mortier, killed in 1 83 5 by Fieschi’s infernal machine. 
 Marshal Damremont, who died before Constantinein 1 837 , Mar- 
 shal Bugeaud, 1849, and Generals Negrier and Duvivier, killed 
 in the insurrection of June, 1848. Governors dying while hold- 
 ing office are alone allowed to be buried under the nave, and 
 to have monuments erected in the church. The pulpit is of 
 white marble with bronze bas-reliefs of scriptural subjects. 
 The dome is described at p. 338. 
 
 The Hotel des Invalides may be inspected by strangers daily 
 from 11 to half-past 3. There are Invalides ready to act as 
 
 (i) In the time of Napoleon nearly 5000 flags filled the nave ; 
 but on the evening before the entry of the allied armies into Paris, 
 March 31, 1814, the Duke de Feltre, Minister of War, by order of 
 Joseph Bonaparte, commanded them to be burnt, and the sword 
 of Frederick the Great, which was preserved here, to be broken. 
 The orders to that effect were given thrice before they were 
 obeyed. Ten of the flags were saved by private individuals, 
 and not restored to (he Invalides until i 860 . On the i 2 lh of 
 August 1851, afire broke out here on the occasion of the funeral 
 of Marshal Sehasliani; five out of the 25o flags were consumed, 
 and many damaged. The parasol of command taken in the 
 war with Morocco in i844 was injured; the high altar and a 
 large painting were completely destroyed. The Austrian flags 
 taken at Magenta and Sol ferine have been placed here, toge- 
 ther with two flags taken from the Moors and five flags fronri 
 Mexico. 
 
3i6 THIRTEENTH WALK. 
 
 guides for a small fee, and a trifle will be expected by those 
 who show the Council-Chamber, Kitchen, and Refectories. 
 
 In front of this Hotel, and extending to the Seine, lies the 
 Esplanade des Invalides, consisting of six squares, planted 
 with trees in 17 50 and 1818 ; it measures 1440 feet by 7 80, 
 and reaches to the Quai d’Orsay. In the circular space situ- 
 ated at one third of the central avenue, there stood a foun- 
 tain, ornamented with the celebrated bronze lion brought 
 from the Piazza San Marco, at Venice, but restored in 1815. 
 
 At No. 127, rue de Crenelle, is the Hdtel du Chdtelet, a 
 splendid specimen of the grandeur of the days of Louis XIV. 
 It is inhabited by the Archbishop of Paris. Nearly oppo- 
 site is the 
 
 Ecok d'Etat Major (see p. 98.) On the site of the ad- 
 joining cavalry barracks stood the Eglise Ste. Valere. The 
 ground afterwards belonged to the Davoust family, and then 
 to Mr. Hope. At No. 77, rue de Varennes, is the Hdlel de 
 Biron, now occupied by the Dames du Sucre Cceur. 
 
 At No. 69, rue de Babylone is the chape] of the Oriental 
 Society for the union of all the Christians of the East. At No. 
 49 are infantry barracks famous for the attack they sustained 
 ill the revolution of 1830. Near this, at No. 12, rue Mon- 
 sieur, is the Armenian College; and at No. 27, rue Oudinot, 
 the establishment of the Freres des Ecoles Chretiennes. 
 
 Passing into the rue de Sevres, we find, at No. 86, the 
 Convent of Socurs de la Congregation de Notre Dame, com- 
 monly called the Convent des Oiseaux, and at No. 95 the 
 CouvENT DES Lazauistes, where the visitor will perceive 
 one of the most tastefully decorated chapels in Paris. It con- 
 sists of a nave and two aisles, separated by Doric columns, 
 with galleries above. Tlie ceiling is elegantly painted and 
 gilt, in compartments, in the Italian style ; the windows 
 display, in stained glass, passages from the life of St. Vin- 
 cent de Paul. A winding staircase to the left, outside the 
 chapel, gives access to the galleries, where, besides the con- 
 fessionals, we see a series of well-executed paintings by 
 Father Francis, one of the brethren. The subjects are — The 
 Presentation, Annunciation, and Visitation; the Adoration of 
 the Magi, Christ disputing in the Temple, and the Sermon on 
 the Mount. Nearly opposite, is the 
 Fontaine Egvptienne. — Constructed in 1806. It consists 
 of the statue of an Egyptian pouring water from two vases 
 into a semicircular basin. Close by is the 
 
 Hospice des Incup.ables (Fe.mmes), 42, rue do Sevres. — This 
 house, originally called Hdpital des Incurables, was founded 
 in 1634, by Cardinal de la Rochefoucault. A spacious court 
 
MISSIONS ETRANGERES. 347 
 
 leads to the chapel, the front of which has a gable surmounted 
 by an iron belfry, and is deserving of attention. Two niches 
 with statues of Religion and Faith flank the entrance. The 
 interior is cruciform, without aisles. In tne nave we see 
 some good pictures : an Annunciation, the Virgin and Child, 
 the Visitation, a Holy Family, and an Adoration of the 
 Shepherds, on wood, dated 1404. In the left transept an 
 Ecca Homo, an old painting of the Adoration of the Magi, and 
 a long list of the benefactors to the establishment. The most 
 remarkable pictures in the right transept are two of the 
 Flemish school, one representing the Saviour holding a 
 skein of thread, which his mother is winding into a hall ; 
 while in the other beholds aboard steady, which Joseph is in 
 the act of sawing. In the same transept is also a handsome 
 marble monument to the founder, representing him kneeling on 
 a sarcophagus, and an Angel holding his train. The infirmaries 
 consist of long galleries partitioned into separate rooms, one 
 for each patient, modestly but sufficiently furnished, and which 
 gives them the a))pearancc of streets. Visitors meet with po- 
 lite attention, and are admitted from 12 to 4, ( see p. 121.) 
 
 The rue de Sevres and rue du Bac meet on the site formerly 
 occupied by the Cemetery of St. Sulpice. In the rue du Bac, 
 at No. 140, is the Hdtel Chatillon, built by a pupil of Man- 
 sard, and now occupied by the Congregation, or convent, des 
 Sceurs de St. Vincent de Paule. North of this stands 
 
 St. FiUNgois Xavier, or, Fglise des Missions Etran- 
 GERES, second chapel of ease to St. Thomas d’Aquin, I28, 
 rue du Bac. — A missionary seminary was founded at this 
 spot in the 17 th century, by Bernard de Ste. Therese, Bishop 
 of Babylon. The church was begun in 1083, after the designs 
 of Dubuisson. It consists of two parts, one on the ground- 
 floor, and the other above. The lower church is perfectly 
 plain, and service is performed in it only on Sundays. The 
 upper one is Ionic. Over the altar is the Adoration of the 
 Magi, by Couder ; in the left transept, St. Louis washing 
 the feet of the poor, by Bon Boullongne; and opposite, the 
 Apotheosis of St. Francis Xavier ; on the north side of the 
 choir is a good painting, by Luca Giordano, of Christ driving 
 the money-changers from the Temple. In the right transept, 
 used as a chapel of the Virgin, is a Holy Family. The altar 
 is of white marble, and has three fine bas-reliefs of Hope, 
 Faith, and Charity. There is a. Chinese bell here, weighing 
 700 kilogrammes, taken at Canton in 1853 by Admiral Rigault 
 de Genouilly. It has no clapper, the sound being produced by 
 a wooden hammer. In this seminary young men are instructed 
 in the sciences and languages necessary for missionaries in the 
 
348 THIRTEENTH WALK. 
 
 East ; among its members was the virtuous Abbe Edgeworth, 
 Avho attended Louis XVI. in his last moments on the scaffold. 
 
 In the rue de Varennes, at No. f)3, is the H6tel Monaco, 
 formerly belonging to Princess Adelaide, now sold to the 
 Duke de Galliera. It was constructed by Brongniart, and 
 stands in a fine garden, with a long avenue reaching quite to 
 the ruedeBabyloue. Gen. Cavaignac resided in it while he held 
 the office of Chief of the Executive Power in 1848, and 
 M. Baroche, President of the Council of State, in 1853. No. 
 69, in the rue de Varennes, is the Hdtel d’Orsay, purchased 
 and embellished by Count Duchatel. 
 
 In the rue de Crenelle, at No. 103, there are still some 
 offices of the Minister of the Interior. 
 
 At No. 110, is the Hotel of the Minister of Public Instruc- 
 tion, and at No. 116, the Hdtel Forbin Janson, remarkable 
 for its elegant entrance, and now the Mairie of the 7 th 
 arrondissement. Near this, at No. 106, rue de Crenelle, is 
 the ancient convent of Penternont, now used as barracks for 
 cavalry. Only a part of the old buildings still exists. The 
 church, devoted to the Protestant service, fronts the street, 
 and is surmounted by a well-proportioned dome. It is cruci- 
 form, and ornamented with Ionic pilasters. This street con- 
 tains some hotels of the most ancient nobility of France. 
 
 The streets east and Avest of the rue Bellechasse occupy the 
 ground formerly known under the name of the Pre aux 
 Clercs, celebrated for the endless petty disputes it gave rise to 
 between the University and the Abbey of St. Gerniain-des- 
 Pres. The University claiming jurisdiction over this ground, 
 the students used to repair thither for their diversion, and it 
 consequently soon became a constant scene of debauchery, 
 duelling, and confusion, to the great scandal of the reverend 
 fathers and peaceful bourgeois of St. Germain, who had often 
 to defend the inviolability of their homes with arms in their 
 hands. (1) On the Place Bellechasse, formerly a dependency 
 of the Convent of the Augustins du St. Sepulchre, we see, 
 
 (i) In 1278, Gerard de Moret, abbot of St. Germain -des-Prt5s, 
 caused some walls to be erected on the road to the Pre aux 
 Clercs, as a protection against the students; but the latter 
 pulled them down, alleging that they encroached upon the 
 road. The abbot, however, caused the alarm -bell to be rung, 
 and the domestics and subjects of the abbey fell upon the stu- 
 dents, the abbot and monks cheering their adherents all the 
 while with cries of fuel Tuel Many students were taken pri- 
 soners, and others either mortally wounded or maimed. The 
 University threatened to close her doors unless immediate satis- 
 faction were granted for this outrage; Avhereupon the abbot, his 
 nj.onks,and llieir proyosf, were condemped to various penalties 
 
STfi. CLomDfi, 349 
 
 fronted by an elegant square planted with trees, and com- 
 prising 1,738 square metres, the church of 
 
 Ste. Clotilde, chapel of ease to St. Thomas d’Aquin. This 
 church, commenced in 1 846, after the designsof M. Gau, is con- 
 structed in the pointed style, 96 metres in length by 38 in 
 breadth ; the height of the nave is 26 metres. The front con- 
 sists of three entrances, separated by buttresses and sur- 
 mounted by two galleries and a wheel-window, crowned by a 
 gable between two spired steeples, 69 metres in height. The 
 gable is surmounted by a statue of St. Clotilda ; four statues of 
 saints occupy the niches fronting the buttresses, and twenty- 
 eight more adorn the three entrances, the pointed receding 
 arches of which are profusely sculptured with wreaths of taste- 
 ful design. They are approached % a flight of steps extending 
 along the whole breadth, and give access to a spacious pro- 
 pylaeum. Three has reliefs adorn the ogives of the inner 
 doors, the central one representing the Crucifixion, by Tous- 
 saint, that to the left, the Baptism of Clovis, and that to the 
 right, the Martyrdom of St. Valeria, both by Oudine. The 
 buttresses are pinnacled ; the roof is all iron. 
 
 Interior. — The church is cruciform, and consists of a nave 
 and two aisles ; there is a chapel on each side on entering, 
 and there are five more around the apsis of the choir. The 
 windows of the chapels are single ; those of the nave and 
 aisles, double ; the transepts receive light from large wheel- 
 windows, below which there is a double window, flanked by 
 single ones. The chief feature of interest is the excellent 
 stained glass in the windows, after the designs of Galiraard, 
 Amaury-Duval, and Jourdy. (i) The baptismal chapel to 
 the left on entering, contains frescoes by Delaborde, repre- 
 senting the Baptism of Christ and that of St, Agnes ; St. Remy, 
 and lastly, St. Francis Xavier baptizing the Indians. The 
 chapel opposite, in the right-hand aisle, has the following 
 
 (l) The subjects are, left aisle on entering, i. St. John the 
 Baptist. 2 . St. Denis, St. Cecilia. 3. St. Helena, St. Hilarius. 4. 
 St. Prosper, St. Camilla. 5. St. Germain, St. Genevifeve. 6. St. 
 Rodegunda, St. Gregory. — Opposite aisle from the transept : 7. St. 
 Monegnnda, St. M6dard. 8. St. Pulcheria, St. Leo. 9. St. Ursula, 
 St. Donatianus. lo, St. Paul, St. Christina. W. St. Victor, St. 
 Agatha. 1 2 . The Saviour. — Transepts, lateral windows : the Evan- 
 gelists and Twelve Prophets — Front windows, to the left: Christ 
 and (he Virgin ; opposite, Christ and Moses. — Chapels of the choir : 
 1 . Six. medallions with Passages from tlie Life of St Louis of 
 France. 2 . Nine medallions with Scenes from the Old and New 
 Testament. 3. The Lady Chapel ; the Life of the Virgin in fifteen 
 medallions. 4, The Life of St. Joseph, in nine medallions. 5. 
 six medallions with Passages from the Life of St. Remy. 
 
350 THIRTEENTH WALK. 
 
 $ubjects by the same artist: Christ declaring himself the Good 
 Shepherd, Jesus and Mary Magdalen, the Holy Women on 
 their way to anoint the body of Christ, the Entombment. 
 Above : Hope and Piety. The piers of the dioir are connected 
 by dwarf walls, enriched towards the aisle; with bas-rclicfs, 
 representing, in the left aisle : 1 . The Marriage of Clovis ; 2 . 
 Clodomir is cured ; 3. The Baptism of Clovis ; 4. Death of 
 Ste. Clotilde. In the right aisle ; l. St. Valeria converted; 
 
 2. Condemned to Death ; 3. Her executim ; 4. She is seen 
 carrying her head to St. Martial. Of the ive chapels of the 
 choir, the first in the right aisle, painted in fresco by Pils, 
 represents passages from the life of St. Bemi, viz., his Con- 
 secration, the Baptism of Clovis, St. Beni organizing mis- 
 sions, and his apotheosis. The next, bf Bezard. displays 
 passages in the life of St. Joseph, in six compartments ; tlie 
 third, in 12 compartments, by Lenepveu; lo the left, passages 
 in the life of the Virgin ; to the right, passages from the Life 
 of Jesus ; the 4lh. by Brissot, passages fnm the life of St. 
 Helena; also Christ carrying his cross, fie crucifixion, and 
 figures of Constantine and St. Sylvester The last chapel 
 in the left aisle, painted by Laemlein, has, 1. St. Louis 
 receiving the crown ; 2. Discoursing under his favourite t;ee ; 
 
 3. Carrying the crown of thorns, and 4. Tending the sick. 
 The organ-loft is over the entrance. This church which has 
 cost 8,000,000 fr,, was inaugurated in 1857, and has received 
 a set of bells forming a complete octave, so that the peals rung 
 from the belfries of Ste. Clotilde are the mest musical in Paris. 
 
 At Nos. 82 and 80 is the War-Office, foimerly a convent of 
 the Filles de St. Joseph. The buildings take up a considerable 
 portion of the rue St. Dominique, and extend northward to the 
 rue de fUniversite, where, at No. 71, is the 
 
 Depot de la Guerre. — This office is subdivided into four 
 sections, viz. ; — 1. That of the map oJ France, with 83 
 draughtsmen and engravers ; 2 . that of topographical opera- 
 tions ; 3. that of historical labours, comprising the classifica- 
 tion of the Archives, the service of the Library, 8cc., and 
 lastly that of military statistics and reginenlal affairs. The 
 depot contains a valuable library, of upwards of 20,000 
 volumes, and celebrated for the following measures ; the com- 
 plete correspondence of the Ministers of War, from the reign 
 of Louis XHI. to 1814 ; the autograph letters of Louis XIV. to 
 Philip V., his grandson. King of Spain ; tlie military memoirs 
 relative to the wars of the Spanish succession ; the correspond- 
 ence of Napoleon L, filling 300 drawers; a book bound in 
 green morocco, with the title “ Napoleon Bonaparte,” and 
 containing liis certificates of baptism atd nobility, all the 
 
ST. THOMAS D’aQUIN. 351 
 
 orders transmitted to him during his military service, &c. ; 
 autograph letters of Conde, Jourdan, Hoche, Massena, Ney’ 
 &c,, and the manuscripts of Vauban, Folard, Guibert, Bourcet’ 
 and other eminent military men. It also possesses a series of 
 exact surveys of the battles of Napoleon, and many important 
 documents, which are being published under the title of Me- 
 morial du Depdt de la Guerre. To visit this library apply to 
 M. le Directeur du Depdt de la Guerre, 82, rue St. Dominique. 
 
 The rue St. Dominique, which in 1542 bore the name of 
 Chemin des Vaches, and afterwards that of Chemin de la Jus- 
 tice, is celebrated for its noble residences ; for example, the 
 Hotel of the Duchess Doivager of Orleans, No. C 2 , formerly 
 inhabited by the Arch-chancellor of the Empire, Cambaceres, 
 and now occupied by the Ministry of Public Works ; the H6- 
 tel de Grammont, No. 113 ; and the Hdtel de Perigord, No. 
 115, now the property of Prince Demidoff. 
 
 POTTRTEEHTH 'WALZ, 
 
 This comprises the rest of the 7 th, and part of the 6th ar- 
 rondissements. In the Place St. Thomas d’Aquin is the 
 church of 
 
 St. Thomas d’Aquin,— designed by Pierre Bullet, and built 
 in 1683 for a convent of Jacobins, founded by Cardinal Ri- 
 chelieu. The front, rebuilt in 17 87, by Brother Claude, 
 one of the monks, is decorated with two ranges of Doric and 
 Ionic columns, surmounted by a pediment, containing a 
 bas-relief representing Religion. This church is 132 feet in 
 length, and 72 feet in height. The interior is Corinthian and 
 cruciform, with single aisles, and has the following frescoes by 
 Blondel, viz. — In the cupola over the intersection of the nave 
 and transept • four compartments, containing the four Evan- 
 gelists, Christ holding the Gospel, and the Virgin adored by 
 angels. In the pendentives ; Si. Thomas d’Aquin, St. Fran- 
 cois de Sales, St. Vincent de Paule, and St. Dominic. Left 
 transept, oyer the altar ; the Marriage of the Virgin. Right 
 transept : Simeon blessing Jesus. Over the lateral arches of the 
 transepts: Faith, Hope, Charity, and Divine Justice. On the 
 ceilings of the transepts : medallions with Angels carrying the 
 instruments of the Passion. On the walls of the choir : St. 
 Peter and St. Paul ; its semi-cupola is I’ichly gilt. Flanking 
 the altars of the transepts . medallions with figures of the Vir- 
 ,gin and St. Vincent de Paule. Behind the high altar is a cha- 
 pel to St. Louis, with a picture of that saint; the ceiling, by 
 Lemoine, re])rescnts the Ascension ; the frescoes on the walls 
 
352 POURTEENTH WALK) 
 
 represent the Bearing of the Ark. Oyer the doots leading 
 to this chapel are pictures of St. Catherine of the Wheel, and 
 St. Louis praying. The other pictures in this church are, in 
 the left aisle ; the Prodigal Son, by Roehn; the Conversion of 
 St. Paul, bv La Hire ; and St. Thomas d’Aquin stilling a storm 
 at sea, by Schelfer. In the right hand aisle ; Magdalen at the 
 Calvary; Paul before Festus, by Vouet, painted in 1639; a 
 Descent from the Cross, by Guillemot, and a Holy Family of 
 the Flemish School . The church is celebrated for its preachers, 
 and fashionable congregations. 
 
 Adjoining this church, 3, Place St. Thomas d’Aqum, is the 
 
 MusEe d’Artillerie.— This highly interesting and curious 
 museum, a visit to which should not be omitted, established 
 in the ancient convent of the Feuillans in 1794, was removed 
 to this convent of the Jacobins in 1797, and was originally 
 formed of arms from tbe Garde-Meuble de la Couromie, the Cha- 
 teau de Chantilly, the Chateau de Sedan, the Bastille, and 
 other armories. During the wars of the first Napoleon the 
 museum was greatly increased by spoils from the enemy, but 
 in 1814 was much diminished by the removal of arms claimed 
 by the allies; in 1815, the Prussians alone carrying off 580 
 chests. (1) In the passage leading to the rooms of the ground- 
 floor there are guns of various calibres, from the roughest con- 
 trivances in the infancy of the invention to the most elegant 
 forms of later days. Among them are several mortars of 
 hammered iron left by the English before Meaux in 1422, 
 Turkish pieces with Arabic inscriptions, four pieces taken 
 from St. Juan d'Ulloa in 1838, Russian guns, taken at Sebas- 
 topol and Bomarsund, some Austrian ones taken at Solferino, 
 a few Chinese guns, and some others made by way of ex- 
 periment. An immense chain is suspended along the walls, 
 590 feet in length, and weighing 7,896 pounds, called 
 the Chaine du Danube, from having been used by the 
 Turks for a pontoon bridge over that river, at the siege ot 
 Vienna, in 1683. All round the adjoining court Russian cast- 
 iron coast-and-siege ordnance are seen placed upright against 
 the wall. On entering the vestibule on the ground floor, 
 we find field-pieces, howitzers, culverins, and falconets. 
 Two pieces of large calibre, with Arabic inscriptions, flank 
 the inner door. Next is the Salle des Modeles, with models 
 in the proportion of 1 to 6, of cannon, gun-carnages, ammu- 
 nition-waggons, &c. Prussian, Dutch, Norwegian, and other 
 fire-arms are arranged in racks against the walls. Inere aie 
 also here some Russian muskets taken at Bomarsund. Ja- 
 panese and Mongolian armour, arms which belonged to the 
 (1) Tbe visitor can have an excellent catalogue for 1 franc. 
 
MUSEE d’ARTILLERIE. 363 
 
 Emperor of China, his war-saddle taken at Pekin in 18G0, 
 his military dress, his rich poniard, and other Chinese wea- 
 pons. On ascending the staircase, we see three plaster casts 
 of antique reliefs, found in tlie vicinity of the Rhine, one of 
 which represents a Roman soldier armed at all points. We 
 now enter the Salle des Armures, of Doric design. The 
 ceiling is painted in grisaille, with arms and attributes of 
 war. It is lit by semi-circular windows; the walls are hung 
 with trophies of helmets, coats of mail, shields, 8cc., and de- 
 corated with inscriptions commemorating the Grand Masters 
 of artillery and other high officers of the French army from 
 the remotest periods. Fronting the door there are seven glass 
 stands, containing specimens of Greek, Roman, Celtic and 
 Merovingian weapons, a Roman crown, helmets, iron- 
 pots, etc. The remainder of the central portion of the floor 
 is occupied by figures, chiefly on horse-back, in full armour. 
 Complete coats of armour are also arranged on blocks along 
 the lateral walls, most of them with escutcheons painted on 
 the plinths ; the walls of the extremities are decorated 
 with trophies formed of arms of all kinds of rich and costly 
 execution; the shields especially will attract attention, The 
 helmet marked No. 281, once belonged to Bajazet If., son of 
 the conqueror of Constantinople. There are also other histo- 
 rical relics : against the wall to the right on entering, we find 
 No. 1 35, the armour worn by Henry, Duke of Guise, sur- 
 named Le Balafre, killed at Blois in 1588 the helmet alone 
 weighs 10 lbs.) ; No. 134, belonged to the Duke of May- 
 enne, chief of the League (1611); and No. 1 19, was worn by 
 Frederic V, Elector Palatine and King of Bohemia (1632). 
 No. 165, belonged to tbe Constable Anne de Montmorency 
 ( 1567), and No. 178 to Robert IV de la Marck, Marshal of 
 France (1556). Among the equestrian figures. No. 162 was 
 owned by the Bastard Antoine de Bourgogne, son of Philippe- 
 le-Bon. Here also in a gilt frame, surmounted by an eagle, 
 is the flag of the old Garde Imperialc. In the other galleries, 
 which are numbered 1, 2, 3, and 4, small arms, ancient and 
 modern, are arranged in racks, the most curious and costly 
 objects being in glass presses. Some of the arms taken from 
 the Moors in 1859 by Gen. de Martimprey, as also those 
 taken in the Chinese war of 1860, are placed here. Along the 
 sides, next the windows, are rows of tables, presenting models of 
 cannon, machines, &c. We may notice, in gallery No. 1, the 
 inlaid carbines, cross-bows, and stirrups, such as Nos. 1416, 
 1606, 1552 and 2380 ; in gallery No. 2, the rich fire-arms of 
 tlie lGlh-18th centuries; No. 3, the Roman sword blades, con- 
 tained in glass stands, and in gallery No. 4, the halberts, fal- 
 
 23 
 
354 FOURTEEMH WALK. 
 
 chions and partizaus, and the weapons of African and other 
 savages. Strangers are admitted on Thursdays from 12 to 4. 
 A military library of 6,000 volumes is attached to this mu- 
 seum, but is not public. 
 
 Opposite the Place St. Thomas d’Aquin, at 31, rue St. Do- 
 minique, is the noble mansion of the Due de Luynes. At 
 No. 84, rue de Grenelle, are the new premises of the Socieles 
 Impdrialrs d' floHi culture et d' Agriculture {%Qe.Tp. 105). Flower 
 and agricultural shows are held here twice a year. At No. 
 57 in the rue de Grenelle is the 
 Fontaine de Grenelle, one of the finest in Paris. — Bou- 
 chardon executed the designs, figures, bas-reliefs, and some of 
 the ornaments. It was begun in 17 39, and finished in 1745. 
 The building is of a concave semi-elliptical form, 90 feet in 
 length by 36 in elevation. In the centre is a pavilion, resting 
 on a basement, with plain rustics, supporting two couples 
 of Ionic columns crowned with a pediment. In front is a 
 group in white marble, representing tlie City of Paris sitting 
 on a prow, between the Seine and the Marne. Between the 
 columns is the following inscription, by Cardinal Fleury ; — 
 
 Dum Ludovicus XV., populi amor et parens optimus, publiciB 
 tranquillitatis assertor, Gallic! imperii linibus innocue propa- 
 gatis ; pace Germanos Russosque inter et Ottomanos feliciter 
 conciliata ; gloriose simul et pacifice regnabat ; fontem bunc ci- 
 vium utilitali, urbisque ornamento, cousecrarunt Preefectus el 
 jEdiles, Anno Domini M.DCC.XXX.IX. 
 
 The wings have Doric pilasters, between which are four sta- 
 tues and as many bas-reliefs, representing the four seasons, 
 besides two escutcheons containing the arms of the city. 
 
 Entering the rue de Sevres by the rue de la Chaise, we find 
 the Arbave aux Bois, first chapel of ease to St. Thomas 
 d’Aquin, 16, rue de Sevres. Contiguous was a convent, 
 bought in 1719 by Religieuses de Notre Dame aux Bois. 
 
 Facing this is the Maison du Novidat des Religieuses Hos- 
 pitalieres de St. Thomas de Villeneuve, 27, rue de Sevres, 
 and further on, in the courtyard of No. 35, we find the 
 Eglise de Jesus, belonging to the Jesuits. Though it con- 
 tains no works of art worth mentioning, the grandeur of its 
 Gothic interior, consisting of a nave and two aisles with 
 clustered columns, is deserving of notice. 
 
 The Croix-Rouge is a spot where six streets meet, and at 
 No. 39, in the rue des Saints Peres, is the 
 
 Acadejiie de MiiDECiNE, formerly at No. 12, rue de Poitiers, 
 where the meetings of the royalist members of the Constituent 
 Assembly of 1848 used to be held. Its entrance, erected in 
 1784, consists of a noble arch supported by two engaged 
 
ST. GERMAIN DES PRES. 355 
 
 Doric columns on .each side. Above is a statue of Esculapius, 
 and within, there is a statue of Baron Larrey (see p. laa.) 
 This building was formerly annexed to Ihe 
 Hopital de la Charite, 45, rue Jacob. — Founded in 1613, 
 by Marie de Medicis, for the Freres de la Charite, wlio were 
 all surgeons or apothecaries, besides ministering to the spiri- 
 tual wants of tlie sick. The building has a handsome front, 
 \vith a spacious Doric entrance and vestibule (see p. 140). 
 Strangers are admitted on Sundays and Thursdays from l 
 to 4. A portion of this hospital has now been rebuilt in the 
 rue des Saints Pieres. The chapel, the first stone of which 
 was laid in 1613 by Queen Marguerite, the wife of Henry IV., 
 has been demolished, and is to be replaced by another. The 
 name of the above-mentioned street is a corruption of Cinq- 
 Feres, the monks of the Charite who first assumed the duties 
 of the hospital being five. 
 
 The rue Bonaparte, on the right, leads to 
 Saint Germain des Pres. — This church is a monument of the 
 highest interest to the antiquarian, it having been the abbey- 
 church of one of the largest and most ancient monastic estabUsh- 
 ments of Paris. Childebert I., son of Clovis, on the suggestion 
 of St. Germain, Bishop of Paris, founded a monastery 
 about 551, though the Pragmaticurii, which is still preserved 
 among the Archives of the State, dates from 561. He dedicated 
 the church to the Holy Cross, St. Stephen, and St. Vincent ; the 
 relics of the latter saint were brought by him from Spain, and 
 given to the monastery, together with the treasure which he had 
 taken from Amalaric, at Toledo, and a piece of the true cross. 
 This foundation was endowed with many estates, and among 
 others with the fief of Issy, extending over the whole of the 
 southern bank of the Seine, from the Petit Pont in Paris to the 
 village of Sevres. Throughout this domain the community pos- 
 sessed full jurisdiction, which they retained till 1674 ; and the 
 prison of the Abbaye long remained as a monument of their im- 
 portance. The church, dedicated in 557, was celebrated for its 
 decorations, and was called “ The Golden Basilica.” In 861, 
 the Normans nearly destroyed the monastery, and burnt the 
 church, of which only part of the lower walls of the western 
 tower are supposed to remain. The tomb of Childebert was 
 afterwards carefully restored by the monks. In 990, the 
 Abbot Morardus, 26th in succession, commenced rebuilding 
 the church, which was consecrated by Pope Alexander HI., 
 in 116.3, under the abbot Hugues HI. In 1653-6, the tomb of 
 Childebert was placed in the middle of the church. The chapel 
 of the Virgin was begun about the middle of the 1 3th century, by 
 Pierre de Montreuil, and was one of the most exquisite pieces 
 
356 POURTEENIH WALK. 
 
 of architecture of the middle ages. In 1369, the abbey was 
 fortified against the English by Charles V.; and, in the 
 time of Henry IV., it still resembled a fortress (1) encom- 
 passed by a moat. To the west, where part of the 
 Faubourg St. Germain now stands, was the Pre aux Clercs 
 (see p. 348). From 1503, the abbots were appointed by 
 the crown ; and among other distinguished men who attained 
 this honour was Casimir, King of Poland, who died in 1672. 
 In 1644, this celebrated community was incorporated with 
 the celebrated Benedictines of St. Maur. Mabillon, Mont- 
 faucon, Achery, Ruinart, &c., were all of this abbey. It 
 was suppressed in 17 89, and the buildings became a salt- 
 petre-manufactory. An explosion taking place in 17 94, the 
 refectory and library were destroyed, and the church much 
 damaged. Under Charles X., the restoration of it was com- 
 menced by M. Godde, and completed in 1836. The square 
 buttressed tower with double-arched mullioned windows, 
 which flanks the entrance, dates from 990, the time of 
 the Abbot Morardus ; it was foraaerly topped with a 
 stone spire, which has been replaced by a wooden one of 
 an octagonal form, with four smaller ones at the corners. 
 There were two turrets besides, flanking the cboir, but 
 which were removedin 1820. The western porch is pointed ; 
 in the ogive is an old bas-relief representing the Last Supper, 
 and over this the figure of Christ. The figures that once adorned 
 the western front may be found in Montfaucon’s Antiquities. 
 
 Interior. — The interior is cruciform, with a circular choir 
 at the east end; the nave is flanked with plain aisles without 
 chapels, except one in the right hand aisle, but the choir is 
 surrounded by them. All this part is also of the time of the 
 Ahbot Morardus ; the choir is the work of Abbot Hugues HI. 
 All the capitals of the pillars forming the piers will be par- 
 ticularly remarked for the devices of which they are com- 
 posed ; many of those in the nave are restorations of the old 
 ones, now magnificently gilt and decorated ; the ceiling is 
 painted in cobalt, interspersed with stars, and the foliated 
 capitals of the lofty engaged columns which front the piers are 
 also gilt. The whole church is decorated with fresco-paint- 
 ings by the late M. Flandrin, to whose memory a monument 
 has been erected there. Over the arches of the choir we see 
 the twelve Apostles in fresco, and around the apsis are the 
 Angel, Lion, Ox, and Eagle, emblems of the Evangelists ; over 
 the central arch is the Lamb . The wall at the entrance of the choir 
 
 (i) In May, iss4, one of the loopholed towers of the abliey 
 was discovered at No. i7, rue St. Benoit, transformed into tiie 
 well-hole of a staircase. 
 
ST. GERMAIN DES PRES. 337 
 
 to the right is painted in three compartments ; the tympan of 
 the upper ogive representing the Abbot Morardus, three of his 
 immediate successors, and King Robert. The lower ogive 
 spaces are adorned with the figures of Fortitude, Justice, 
 Chastity, and Truth ; and the field below represents Christ 
 bearing the Cross. A similar arrangement is in the opposite 
 E wall, where the upper ogive represents St. Droctovseus and 
 St. Germain on one side, and King Childebert and his Queen, 
 Hudrogote, on the other, offering the church to St. Germain. The 
 lower ogives display the figures of the other cardinal virtues. 
 Faith, Hope, Charity, and Humility. The field below re- 
 presents Christ making his entrance into Jerusalem. Figures 
 of archangels adorn the ceiling of the cross, while the frieze 
 of the nave is charged with a series of biblical subjects 
 worthy of the distinguished artist to whom they are due (1). 
 The stalls of the choir are profusely carved. The right hand 
 aisle contains the Martyrdom of St. Vincent, by Cazes 
 (1784), and the afore-mentioned chapel, surmounted by a cu- 
 pola and drum, the ceiling of which is boldly painted with the 
 apotheosis of a saint. Over the confessional is a Mater Dolo- 
 rosa, by Varcollier. The adjoining transept, which is (he 
 chapel of Ste. Marguerite, contains a handsome marble tomb 
 of one of the Castellan family. In the first chapel of the 
 choir there is a painting of the Archangel crushing the 
 Dragon. In the same chapel is a tomb of James Duke of Doug- 
 las, who died in 1C45. His figure in marble is reclining on 
 a sarcophagus. In the 2d chapel, black marble slabs 
 mark the remains of Mabillon, Descartes, and Montfaucon. 
 
 ( 1 ) The following are the subjects of these fine mural paint- 
 ings, so arranged that above tlie spandrils of each arch there are 
 two compartments, one relating to the Old Testament, the other 
 to a parallel passage of the New. Beginning from the right on 
 entering, the space over the first arch is provisionally closed. 
 Over the second we see the Confusion of Tongues at Babel, and 
 Jesus delivering the Keys to Peter. 3 rd. Jonah delivered from 
 the large fish, and The Resurrection, .ith. The Sacrifice of 
 Isaac, and the Crucifixion. 5th. Joseph sold hy his brolhers 
 and the Kiss of Judas. Turning to the opposite side of the navej" 
 and moving towards the entrance, we see over the first arch 
 next to the transept Melchisedech offering the sacrifice of bread 
 and wine, and blessing Abraham, and the Institution of the 
 Lord’s Supper. 2nd. The Egyptians drowned in the Red Sea, 
 and the Baptism of Christ. 3rd. Balaam’s burnt-offering, and 
 t he Adoration of the Magi. 4th. Adam and Eve terrifi.ed at the 
 Voice of Die Lord, and the Birth of Jesus. 5lh. Moses before the 
 burning bush, and the Annunciation. In the arched compart- 
 ments above these paintings are various personages of llie Old 
 Testament, such as David and the Prophets, Moses, Judith, &c. 
 
358 fourteenth WALK. 
 
 Here tliere is an excellent picture Ly an unknown mastter, re- 
 presenting the vision of St. Catherine of Siena, in which she 
 saw the Holy Family, and shook the hand of the infant Saviour. 
 The Lady Chapel is circular, and has two uiieiy painted grisailles 
 on canvas, the first attempts of thelate Abel de Pujol ; the Adora- 
 tion of the Magi and the Presentation in the Temple. Next is a 
 Mater Dolorosa, in plaster, with four angels on brackets, kneel- 
 ing. In the chapel of St. Vincent de Paule is the statue of that 
 saint ; in that of St. Paul is a monument to Boileau, whose 
 heart was transferred here in 1819 from his tomb, which 
 exists in the undercroft of the Sainte Chapelle (see p. 306). 
 In the adjoining one is Joseph leading Christ, by Delarue, and 
 a marble monument to another of the Douglas family, Earl of 
 Douglas and Angus, who died in 1011. The following tran- 
 sept contains the tomb of Casimir, King of Poland, who ab- 
 dicated his crown in 1668, and died abbot of the monastery 
 in 1672 ; the king is on his knees, offering up his crown to 
 heaven, and in front of the tomb is a fine bas-relief of one of 
 his battles. Here is also a painting of Simeon kissing the 
 Saviour, probably by a pupil of Rubens. The paint- 
 ings in the left aisle of the nave are ; the Death of Sap- 
 phira, by Leclerc (17 18); St. Germain distributing the presents 
 of Childebert to the poor, by Steuben ; the Entrance of Christ 
 into Jerusalem ; the Baptism of the Eunuch, by Bcrtin (17 18); 
 and the Raising of Lazarus, by Verdier (1677). The pulpit, 
 of white marble, is of elegant design ; it is flanked by two 
 statues in bronze, by Jacquot, one allegorical of the Mosaic 
 law, the other of Christianity. The front is adorned with bas- 
 reliefs in bronze, the central one representing the Sermon on 
 the Mount. For a more complete history of the abbey, see 
 the History of Paris. (1) The church is 200 feet in length, 
 65 feet in breadth, and r.o feet in height. 
 
 Turning to the left, on leaving this most interesting ch irch, 
 the rue Bonaparte will lead the visitor to the rue Ste. Mar- 
 guerite, but lately the site of ihe Abbaye (sec p. 7 8), which 
 stood in front of the rue de I’Ecole de Medccine. 
 
 The rue de I’Echaudee leads to the rue de Seine ; anl the 
 small Passage du Pont Neuf, one of the first established in 
 Pans, to the rue Guenegaud, and the QRoi Conti, now con- 
 siderably widened. The stranger will be reminded by these 
 names that he is on a spot immortalised by Sterne. 
 
 No. 5 on this quay bears an inscription stating tlia). Na- 
 poleon I., then an officer of artillery, on leaving Frimne, 
 lived in that house on the 5th story. On this quay is tie 
 
 (0 History of Paris, 3 vols. svo. There is also a history of 
 the abbey by Bouillard, one of the Benedictines of the soe.ety. 
 
HOTEL DES MONNAIES. 359 
 
 Hotel des Monnaies. — A mint existed in Paris under the 
 second race of kings, in the royal palace of the He de la Cite. 
 It was afterwards established in the rue de la Monnaie, and 
 removed in 177 5 to the present building, erecTed on the site of 
 the Hotel dc Conti, after the designs of Antoine. The principal 
 front is 3C0 feet in length, and 78 high. It has three stories. 
 In tlie centre a projecting mass with five arcades on the ground 
 floor supports six Ionic columns, crowned with an entabla- 
 ture and an attic, ornamented with festoons and six statues, 
 of Law, Prudence, Power, Trade, Abundance, and Peace. 
 The front towards the rue Guenegaud is 34 8 feet in length. 
 Two pavilions rise at its extremities, and a third in the centre 
 surmounted by a square cupola. On the attic stand four 
 statues, representing Fire, Air, Earth, and Water, Avith slabs 
 bearing appropriate distiches. The intermediate buildings 
 have only two stories. The ground plan includes eight courts, 
 of which the central one is the most spacious. It has two 
 pavilions facing each other, each bearing a pediment; the 
 southern one has four Doric pillars, in front of which are busts 
 of Henry II., Louis XIII., Louis XIV., and Louis XV. The 
 central arcade of the principal front leads into a vestibule, 
 adorned with 24 fluted Doric columns. On the right is 
 an Ionic staircase, with a bust of Antoine, the architect. 
 We next enter a magnificent saloon, called the Mxisee 
 Monetaire, adorned with 20 Corinthian columns in stucco, 
 supporting a gallery. On the mantel-piece is a bust of 
 
 the present Empress. This room contains an immense 
 
 collection of the coins of Franco and other countries, chro- 
 nologically classified, besides the medals struck on vaidous 
 public occasions, such as marriages, victories, etc. They 
 are contained in 5 rows of stands on each side, besides 
 others in the embrasures of the windows. The stands to the 
 left on entering contain medals only ; those to the right, 
 coins. The seriesof the former commences at the stand in the 
 embrasure of the first window to the left, proceeds regularly 
 to the third, thence to the stand immediately opposite, and 
 ends with that nearest to the entrance. The oldest authentic 
 medal here is one of Charlemagne, an invaluable relic of ex- 
 cellent execution ; the earliest medal of which the original die 
 exists is one of Charles VH. (1461). Medals of Boccaccio, 
 Louis XIL, Henry VHL, Francis L, Loyola, Mary Queen of 
 Scots, Sixtus V., Cardinal Richelieu (a superb medal by Varin, 
 1630, for which his life was spared). Cardinal Mazarin, &c., 
 will successively meet the visitor’s eye, until, gradually des- 
 cending to the present period, he will find medals commemo- 
 rating all the stirring events of the last few years ; the pro- 
 
360 FOURTEENTH WALK. 
 
 clcimation of the republic of 1848 ; the days of June, Cavaig- 
 nac’s administration ; the visit of the French National Guards 
 to London in Octoltcr 1 848; the 2d of December 1851, the 
 Proclamation of the Empire ; the visit of the Que^n of Eng- 
 land in August 1855 ; the taking of Bomarsund and of Se- 
 bastopol, the marriage of Prince Napoleon with Princess Clo- 
 tikle, &CC., besides an immense mmd)er of medals with por- 
 traitsof the princes or leading personages of all countries, such 
 as Queen Isabella of Spain, Victor Emmanuel of Italy, Narvaez, 
 Kossuth, etc. Themedals struck in commemoration of the Great 
 Exhibition are all in the stands of the right-hand windows, toge- 
 ther with a collection of French copper money before the re-coin- 
 age ; smaller stands before the piers of the windows contain 
 private medals or counters Cl', and Japanese, East Indian, 
 and Chinese coins ; the oldest of the latter is dated 17 00 years 
 before Christ. We now come to the five rows of stands to 
 the right on entering, which contain the coins. Many of 
 tlie places are now empty, owing to the transfer of upwards 
 of COOO coins to the Imperial Library ; nevertheless, many 
 of them have been replaced by duplicates. The most interest- 
 ing of the English coins is a silver penny of William the Con- 
 queror (106G) ; of the Spanish, one of King Tuica (date C38.) 
 There are, besides the African cowrie, Mexican, Bolivian, Greek, 
 Turkish money, etc. The fifth row from the entrance contains 
 the whole series of French coins, fromthetime of the Gaulsdown 
 to the present time. Four large glass presses flanking the en- 
 trance and the chimney-piece opposite contain an interesting 
 collection of standard weights and measures, implements for 
 engraving, stamping, etc., and chemical substances used 
 for the purposes of fining. In adjoining rooms are several 
 models of the furnaces, instruments, &.C., used in coining and 
 assaying money, and other stands containing a numismatic 
 gallery of the Kings of France, of modern workmanship. The 
 last room of this series is called the Salle Napoleon; here 
 are arranged nearly all the dies of medals struck under the 
 Consulate and the Empire ; hero is also a splendid colossal 
 marble bust of Napoleon I., executed for Fouche by Canova in 
 1806, a model in bronze of the mask taken from the Emperor’s 
 face at St. Helena 2 0 hours after bis death, and a bust of the 
 present Emperor, by Barre ; a model of the pillar of the 
 Place Vendome in bronze, peculiarly interesting, as display- 
 ing the statue of Napoleon which adorned the column before 
 
 (1) The coinage of medals and counters is a privilege of the 
 mint of Paris. The net profit under tliis head amounts to ahout 
 20,000 fr. Upwards of ioo,ooo medals and counters were coined 
 last year, besides 212,000 medals of saints, 
 
HOTEL DES MONNAIES. 361 
 
 Ihc Restoration, in his imperial robes. It was executed by 
 Brenet, in the proportion of 1 to 24, and cost 6000 fr. A 
 glass case contains a representation in wax of the bas-reliefs 
 with which its shaft is encircled. On a table, under a glass case 
 is a closed casket, containing a collection of all the coins struck 
 with the effigy of Napoleon I. in the kingdom of Italy, given 
 to the Musee by the present Emperor when he was President. 
 Returning to the first hall, a door opposite the entrance to the 
 right leads to the staircase of the Gallery. Here, before as- 
 cending, we may remark the Chinese coins arranged in a glass 
 stand. In the first room above, we find a series of seals of 
 State, from King Dagobert down to the second Republic ; also 
 the seals of the five great vassals or feoffees of the Crown. 
 The gallery of the large saloon contains private dies, among 
 which we find the heads of Madame de Genlis, Lord Byron, 
 and many other distinguished personages ; and in the follow- 
 ing galleries and rooms are the dies of historical medals, with 
 the busts of Diane de Poitiers, Henry IV., Marie Therese of 
 Austria, Louis XIV., etc. In the last room, a glass stand con- 
 tains prize medals, another opposite, Masonic counters, and 
 the presses contain dies of the Restoration, the time of Louis 
 Philippe, and the present reign. One of the presses is partly 
 filled with specimens of mineralogy, and metals in theii re- 
 fined state. A very copious and learned catalogue is published 
 of the whole, with detailed descriptions of the medals, priceonly 
 3 francs. Medals of which the dies are retained are sold to visitors 
 for the benefit of the establishment at a trifling cost ; but of the 
 coins of which only one specimen e,xists, or of which the dies are 
 lost, casts exactly resembling the originals are exhibited in the 
 cases of the museum, the originalsbeingcarefullypreservedbut 
 not shown to the public. In this Hotel are performed all the ope- 
 rations of coining, besides the assaying and stamping of the gold 
 and silver for jewellers, &c., who are obliged by law to have 
 every article stamped before it can be sold, it is also the 
 seat of the general administration of the coinage of the State. 
 
 The Laboratory of the Mint is entered from the court to 
 the left. In the first room are two steam-engines of 32 horse- 
 power, by which all the machinery of the establishment is 
 worked. A door to the left leads hence to the furnace-room, 
 with six furnaces containing from 800 to 1200 kilogrammes of 
 silver each. The bars cast here in iron moulds are afterwards 
 taken to iho grand atelier, a lofty hall, where 16 rollers are 
 in constant motion, flattening the bars to the required thick- 
 ness, according to the coin tliey are intended for. After this 
 process, the bars, which have acquired greater length and 
 compactness by successive rolling, are taken to another furnace- 
 
362 
 
 FOURTEENTH WALK. 
 
 room adioining to the first, where they are exposed to a red 
 heat to render them more malleahle. Thence they pass into 
 the hands of the cutters, who are accommodated in a gallery 
 running all round the top of the grand atelier Here round 
 pieces of the required size are cut out of the bars liy machinery, 
 and what remains of the bars is taken back to the melting- 
 furnaces. The pieces are now weighed; if too light, they are 
 sent down to be melted; if too heavy, they are reduced by 
 a sort of plane. This machine is so constructed as to throw 
 aside the piece as soon as it has undergone thepiocess of plan- 
 ing, so that it only requires feeding. When the pieces pro\^ 
 of the standard weight, they are taken to a room communicat- 
 iiw with the gallery, where, after being exposed to a red 
 heat they are cleansed in a mixture of water and sulphuric 
 acid! They are now reduced to the exact diameter required, 
 hv the action of a machine which at the same time gi\es a 
 slight elevation to the rim. The floors of the giand atelier 
 and of the gallery are latticed, so that a piece falling down 
 cannot roll away or stick to the shoes of a person treading 
 upon it. Gold is worked in another room adjoining the engine- 
 room' visitors are not allowed to enter, on account of the 
 small ’particles of gold with which the floor is strewed, and 
 which are carefully swept up; hut the process is the same as 
 that described above. The coining-machines are in a liall op- 
 posite the principal entrance in the first court. TJicre arc 
 deven of these machines, viz. one for gold, 6 for five-franc 
 pieces, 2 for two-franc pieces, and 2 for small com. When 
 they are all worked at once, they produce 1 ,500,000 fr. pp day. 
 They are the invention of M. Thonnelier, and well deserve 
 inspection. Each strikes off 7 o pieces per minute (see p. 1 4) . 
 
 The museum is open to the public on Tuesdays and r inlays 
 from 12 to 3. To visit the laboratory and ateliers, visible on 
 Tuesdays and Fridays from 12 to 3, apply for a special ticket 
 lo M. le President de la Commission des Monnaies et 
 Medailles, Hdtel des Monnaies. To the west stands 
 
 The Palais he l’Institut. — This edifice, ongmally built 
 under the provisions of Cardinal Mazarin’s will, for the CoG 
 leqe des Quatre Nations, to which natives of Roussillon, 
 Pignerol, 41sace, and Flanders, were alone adimssihle 
 was commenced in 1661, after the designs of Leyau, and 
 now contains two distinct establishments, the Bihhotheque 
 Mazarine, and the Institat de France. The front foims e 
 concave segment of a circle, terminated at the extremities by 
 projecting pavilions, with open arcades in the basements, il 
 the centre is the front of the church (now the hall where the 
 public meetings are held), composed of four Corinthian co- 
 
BIBLIOTHEQUE MAZARIINE. 363 
 
 lumns surmounted by a pediment. Above the front rises an 
 attic, surmounted by a dome. The first court is octagonal and 
 has two Corinthian pavilions. The eastern one contains the 
 Bibliotheque Mazarine. — Cardinal Mazarin possessed a 
 library, formed by the celebrated Gabriel Naude, who col- 
 lected the most scarce and curious books in France and foreign 
 countries. It consisted of 40,000 volumes, which, in 1652, 
 were sold by a decree of the Parlement de Paris. To repair 
 this loss, Naude, aided by Lapoterie, bought up for the Cardinal 
 a great number of the works which had fallen into the hands of 
 booksellers and private individuals. This second library Maza- 
 rin bequeathed to his College, together with 2,000,000 livres 
 for the building, and a yearly revenue of 45,000 livres. The 
 library was subsequently ehriched with those of Descordes, 
 and of Naude, the latter of whom died in 1655, and thus the 
 present Bibliotheque Mazarine was formed. -The manuscripts 
 were removed to the royal library, but others have since been 
 bought. The collection now amounts to about 120,000 printed 
 volumes, and 50,000 manuscripts. The library consists of an 
 octagonal ante-room, and a large gallery with two branches 
 turning at right angles, 190 feet by 24. The book-cases are 
 richly carved, and fronted with Corinthian columns support- 
 ing a gallery. The principal room, where students are accom- 
 modated, occupies the site of the celebrated Tour de Nesle. (l) 
 It is adorned with many good marhle and bronze busts, some 
 of which are antique. The visitor will remark those of 
 Mazarin and Racine, and the inkstand of the great Conde. It 
 possesses also a very fine terrestrial globe of copper, executed 
 for the Dauphin by the brothers Bergwin, under the direction 
 of Louis XVI.; the latter is evon said to have worked at it 
 himself. It now bears the impression of a bullet with which 
 it \yas struck from the Louvre, defended by the Swiss guards, 
 during the revolution of 1830. There is also a curious col- 
 lection of models of Pelasgic monuments of ancient Greece, 
 comprising the Cyclopean walls of Mycene, 8cc. Specimens of 
 old printing and binding are also exhibited in a glass stand, 
 executed by the late M. Petit Radel. The library is open to 
 the public daily, except Sundays and festivals, from 10 to 3. 
 
 The Institut. — The western pavilion in the first court leads 
 to the Grand Hall, for the public sittings of this celebrated 
 body. The hall is fitted up with benches forming a semi- 
 circle, in front of which are the scats and bureaux of the presi- 
 dent, secretaries, &c. It is adorned with marble statues of 
 Bossuet, Descartes, Fenelon, and Sully. The second court 
 
 (i) In 1842 and i8.'>o, pai ts of the foundations of tbe Tour de 
 Nesle were discovered. 
 
364 FOURTEE^TH WALK. 
 
 contains the private buildings pertaining to the Institute A 
 door to the left gives access to a double staircase leadinig to 
 the secretaries’ office on the first floor, and to the library and 
 liall for the weekly sittings, on the second. The Bibliotheque 
 de I'fnstitut, to which admission is only obtained through 
 introduction hy a member, contains about 60,000 volimies, 
 including a large number of valuable oriental works, com- 
 plete series of the transactions of nearly all the learned societies 
 of the world, and numerous works on history and archaeology. 
 The library is adorned with the celebrated marble statue of 
 Voltaire, by Pigalle. A vestibule, containing the busts of 
 some of the most distinguished members of the Institute in 
 former days, separates the library from the Salle d-es Seances, 
 which is preceded by a waiting-room, of Ionic design. The 
 president’s chair occupies the centre of the Salle, which is 
 lit by five windows, and adorned with marble statues of 
 Racine, Corneille, Moliere, La Fontaine, Puget, and Poussin, 
 in niches, and busts of Gros, Cuvier, Visconti, and La Place, 
 on brackets. On the walls are the portraits of David, Buffon, 
 Montesquieu, Gretry, Coulomb, d’Alembert, J. Goujon, La- 
 voisier, Lagrange, Audran, Voltaire, Turgot, Fenelon, Boileau, 
 Ph. Delorme, Barthelemy, Rousseau, and Fermat. The frieze 
 below these portraits bears the names of poets and other ce- 
 lebrated men. Continuous tables, with chairs for the mem- 
 bers, occupy the floor on both sides of the president’s chair, 
 opposite which there stands another table for strangers, who have 
 previously inscribed their names at the secretaries’ office, for 
 the purpose of reading extracts from original and unpublished 
 essays on various subjects. Along the walls there are benches 
 for the public, those in the centre being reserved for reporters. 
 For information respecting the Institute, its Academies, and the 
 days of their meetings, see p. 89. On public occasions the 
 members of the Institute wear a costume of black, embroi- 
 dered with olive leaves in green silk. To obtain tickets of 
 admission to the annual meetings apply at the office of the 
 Secretary of the Institute, at least one month beforehand. 
 The tickets are for one person. Opposite is the 
 
 Pont des Arts. — This bridge, for foot-passengers only, 
 takes its name from the Louvre, ouce called Palais des Arts. 
 It is composed of 8 arches of wrought iron, with a wooden 
 platform. Each of the first 7 arches is 56 feet, the 8th 84, 
 the length of the bridge is 488, and the breadth 30. It was 
 finished, in 1804, at a cost of 900,000 fr. 
 
 The stranger now enters the Quai Malaqunis, called in 1631 
 after Queen Marguerite, the first consort of Henry IV., the 
 palace of that princess being then at the corner of the rue de 
 
ECOLE DES BEAUX ARTS. 3 05 
 
 Seine. Here the visitor will be struck with a large new huildino- 
 of monumental design, containing the exhibition rooms of the'’ 
 Palais and Ecole des Beaux Arts. — This school, rcor^a- 
 nised by an Imperial decree of Nov. 13th, 1863, is now ad- 
 ministered by a Director appointed for five years, and a Su- 
 perior Council of Instruction composed of the Superintendent 
 of Fine Arts, two painters, two sculptors, two architects one 
 engraver, and five other members. Eight professors respec- 
 tively teach the history of art and esthetics, anatomy, per- 
 spective, mathematics, the natural sciences, practical archi- 
 tecture, and archseology. There are three class-rooms for 
 painting, three for sculpture, three for architecture, one for 
 plate-engraving, and one for engraving medals and precious 
 stones, all superintended by eleven professors. Pupils are 
 admitted between the ages of 15 and 25. An annual compe- 
 tition takes place for the Grand Prix de Rome, the successful 
 candidates, who need not be pupils of the school, but must be 
 French subjects, and not older than 25 , being sent to Rome 
 and maintained there at the expense of the Government for 
 four years (engravers only for three). They are bound to 
 stay at Rome two years ; the rest of the time they may 
 employ m travelling for their instruction. Only one prize is 
 awarded for each section ; and an exhibition of the works 
 of the students here, as well as of those sent by the stu- 
 dents at Rome, takes place every year in September. (See 
 page 100.) This establishment was first called Musee des 
 Monuments Frangais, being chiefly composed of monuments 
 of the middle ages, saved by M. Alexandre Lenoir from the fury 
 of the first revolution. Most of these were restored to the 
 chuiches by the Restoration, when the present building was 
 commenced in 1820 by M. Duban, at a cost of 3,515,907fr. 
 
 It now contains many valuable monuments of ancient and 
 inodern art, and has lately received a considerable collection 
 of plaster casts of statues and bas-reliefs discovered in Greece 
 by M. Charles Lenormant. 
 
 The new building above alluded to contains, as the inscrip- 
 tion on its front denotes, the exhibition rooms of the Ecole. 
 Externally its design is elegant. Marble slabs in the wall bear 
 tliD words PcniluPB^ Sculpiuvc^ Avcli)t(*cture, The entrance 
 hall is specially set apart for the works sent by the students 
 at Rome. From this, a double-branched staircase, fronted by 
 two marble Corinthian columns, leads to the exhibition room 
 of the prize works executed by the pupils in Paris. It 
 occupies the whole length of the building. Its extremities 
 ate cuived, and the walls are adorned with the names of the 
 great artists of ancient and modern times. The first landing- 
 
366 FOURTEEMII WALK, 
 
 place ill front of the entrance ushers us into the great hall, a 
 splendid saloon rising to the roof of the edifice, and lighted by 
 a spacious skylight, suppirted by two inclined planes, 
 which are decorated with copies from the Vatican, by Sig- 
 alon and Boucotran, of the twelve large frescoes severally 
 representing the Persian, Gumoan, Erythrceaii, Libyan, and 
 Delphic Sibyls, and the prophets Daniel, Isaiah, Zachariah, 
 Jonah, Joel, Ezekiel, and Jeremiah. Fronting the semicular 
 recess at the further end of the room, a balcony opens into 
 the latter from the landing-place of the lirst floor, whence 
 a good view may he obtained of the whole. 
 
 In the ruG Bona.p3-rtG wg find tliG principal GiitrancG to the 
 Palais des Beaux Arts, which we will now describe. 
 
 Courts. — There are two courts in front of the palace, se- 
 parated by a dwarf wall and open iron-work. The first is 
 entered through a gateway adorned with busts of Poussin and 
 Puiet. The court is flanked by two buildings of Ionic design ; 
 the northern one contains the offices of the Director and two 
 amphitheatres for students ; the southern one, which masks 
 part of the ancient buildings of the convent des Petits Au- 
 gustins, displays in its intercolumniations the sculptured or- 
 naments of a door, and other interesting fragments of the 
 Hdtel de la Tremouille, or Maison de la Couronne d'Or, a 
 splendid specimen of the architecture of the 14th century, and 
 purchased in 1363 by the Duke of Orleans, brother to King 
 John. On the same wall there is a copy in mosaic of 
 Baphael’s picture of God blessing the World, executed by 
 MM. Baize. Adjoining the porter’s lodge is the 
 
 Sixtine Chapel.~-lhe front is formed of the portal of the 
 Chdteau d’Amt, built in 1548 for Diana of Poitiers, by 
 Henry II. It has three ranges of coupled columns of the Do- 
 ric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders, and is adorned with bas-re- 
 liefs and statues, the finest of which is a Cupid in the act of 
 stringing his bow. Over the top arch is this inscription : 
 
 Braesaeo hsec statuit pergrata Diana mavito 
 
 Utdiuturna sui sint monumenta viri. 
 
 The interior consists of a single nave, with an arched roof 
 strengthened with elegant tie-beams and king-posts. The 
 wainscoting which covers the walls at the entrance is the 
 same that adorned the chateau d’Anet. A screen, consisting 
 of an entablature supported by four columns of red marble, and 
 pilasters of the Gorintliian order, separates the entrance from the 
 nave. At the end is a splendid copy of Michael Angelo s Last 
 Judgment, by Sigalon, on canvas, occupying the whole wall. In 
 a side chapel to the left, are casts of the Moses of Michael An- 
 
ECOLE DES BEAUX ARTS. 367 
 
 gelo, and two tombs, ])y the same, one of which is the Tomb 
 of the Medici ; and also a fiine cast of the bronze gates, by 
 Ghiberti, of the Baptistery at Florence. The nave is now 
 used as a repository for plaster casts. The 1 2 pendentives here 
 are copies from Michael Angelo’s frescos in the Sixtine Chapel 
 at Rome. ^ 
 
 Returning to the court, the visitor will observe in the 
 centre a Corinthian column of red marble, on the top of 
 which is the figure of an angel in bronze, one of several 
 saved from a group, pillaged by the mob from the tomb 
 of Cardinal Mazarin. Immediately behind it is the beau- 
 tiful front of a chateau erected at Gaillon in 1500 by 
 Cardinal d’Amboise, and transported thence by M. Le- 
 noir. Its western surface is studded with brackets sup- 
 porting antique statues, and medallions. The second coin-t 
 is semi-elliptical, and fronted by the palace, 240 feet in length 
 by 60 in height, consisting of two lateral pavilions connected 
 by a central Corinthian facade, pierced with 1 1 arched win- 
 dows, and surmounted by an attic. The pavilions have plain 
 Corinthian pilasters with square-headed niches. In front, on 
 either side of the entrance, are pedestals with ten marble ’sta- 
 tues, the work of as many French artists studying at Rome. 
 The court is flanked by two arched screens, the one to the 
 left florid Saxon, with three arches ; the opposite one 
 with four; the two central ones supported by a colossal pen- 
 dant keystone, the whole in the style of the time of Francis I. 
 Beyond this, in a garden, is a fountain, surmounted by four 
 figures sculptured by Paolo Poncio. Underneath is an escut- 
 cheon by Jean Goujon, and two seated figures by Germain 
 Pilon. On the waRs of the court, forming the curves, are spe- 
 cimens of old architectural and sculptural fragments, of which 
 the following merit attention a bas-relief of 1440; marble 
 medallions with the heads of Titus, Vespasian, Claudius, and 
 Galba; two antique lions, and a shield of metal walled in, 
 and embossed with mythological subjects. Opposite the en- 
 trance to the palace are two Discoboli, copied in marble from 
 the antique. In the court is a curious monolith basin of the 
 13th century, brought from the Abbey of St. Denis, 12 feet 
 in diameter, and ornamented with quaint heads of Ceres, 
 Bacchus, Pan, Neptune, Avarice, and various animals. 
 
 Interior.— \w the spacious Corinthian vestibule are stair- 
 cases right and left leading to the upper stories. Next is 
 a 1 ectangular court, where the visitor will read in gilt letters ; 
 
 Inceptum a Ludovico XVIIl. 
 
 Ludovicus Philippus peregit moimmentum anno MDCGCXXXVIll, 
 Underneath are medallions with the portraits of Leo X. and 
 
3g8 fourteenth WALK. 
 
 Francis I., the restorers of the arts; and facing them are corre- 
 sponding likenesses of Pericles and Augustus , Round the walls 
 are engraved the names of famous artists of all countries, such as 
 Michad Angelo, Inigo Jones, 5cc. On the walls to the right and 
 left are fragments of antique tombs, &c., also a curious bas- 
 relief, representing a sacrifice. There are also statues of Cupid 
 and Psyche, by Cavelier; the Venus Pudica, by Vilain ; and, 
 in the centre. Mars in repose, by Godde. On the opposite j 
 side is the entrance to what is properly the Ecole des 
 Beaux-Arts. The galleries on the ground floor contain ] 
 
 casts and copies of architecture from the antique, separated | 
 
 into three divisions; one for Grecian, the second for Roman; 
 and the third for the arts of Europe in general during the 
 middle ages. The amphitheatre for the distribution of 
 prizes, See., on the western side of the inner court, is semi- 
 circular, and, besides richly gilt compartments in the cupola, 
 contains one of the finest productions of modern art, by Dela- 
 roche, representing groups of the most celebrated artists of ] 
 every age and country, assembled and presided by Zeuxis, 
 Phidias, and Apelles, for the purpose of awarding prizes to 
 successful competitors. It contains 7 5 figures, of which 70 
 are those of artists. One of the female figures, arrayed in a 
 green mantle, is the portrait of the gifted author’s wife. (1) 
 From the ample amphitheatre the visitor is conducted to the 
 Salle Louis XIV, containing the first part of a series of por- 
 traits of the most eminent members of the Academy, amongst 
 whom are Vanloo, Servandoni, Lemoine, 6cc. Here also we 
 see part of a remarkable collection of models of roofing, and 
 also of Egyptian, Grecian, and Roman art, executed in cork 
 or plaster in the proportion of 1 to 100. The rest ol the 
 collection is not visible at present. The two angels on the 
 chimney-piece are by Germain Pilon. A gallery, filled with 
 busts, leads hence to the Salle du Conseil, where the series 
 of portraits is continued; it contains besides 8 chandeliers of 
 wood, carved and gilt, once the property of the old church (now 
 demolished) of Ste. QoROvieve; also two candelabi’a modelled 
 upon originals found at Pompeii, and marble busts of academi- 
 cians. Passing through a corridor, painted with copies of 
 arabesques from the Vatican, we enter the Gallery of Prizes, 
 divided into three parts by two partitions with Doric pilasters, 
 and lit by seven arched windows. The walls are adorned with 
 the pictures that have gained the grand prizes. Here may be 
 
 (t) He is said to have occupied three years and a half in exe- 
 cuting this work, and to liave received 80 ,ooo fr. for it. It was 
 considerably injured by a fire which broke out in tlic aniphittica- 
 tre in 1 855, but has since been successfully restored. 
 
iCOLE DES FONTS Et CHAI?SSi5es. 369 
 
 s6en the prize-works of the most eminent artists, such as Fra- 
 gonard, David, Ingres, Heim, Hesse, Pujol, Sec. The collec- 
 tion begins with a painting by Natoire, of the year 1721. 
 The Libravy, a room lit by 11 windows, is not shown to 
 visitors. Admission on application at the porter’s, from 10 
 to 4. A fee is expected. 
 
 In the rue des Marais, not far from this palace, No. 21, 
 is the house where Racine died, in 1699, and Adrienne 
 Lecouvreur, in 1730. At No. 24, rue des Saints Peres, is the 
 ficoLE DES PONTS ET CiiAussEES, established in 1747, and 
 enlarged in 17 84. It possesses a rich collection of plans, 
 maps, and models, relative to civil engineering, as also a good 
 library. The present building, consisting of a Doric entrance 
 between two lateral pavilions, dates from 1843 . Stran°-ers 
 are not generally admitted, but a special order may, though 
 with difficulty, be obtained for the purpose, on applying by 
 letter, post-paid, to M. le Secretaire du Conseil General de 
 I’Ecole des Fonts et Chaassees, at the School (see p. 98). 
 
 The stranger, entering the Quai Voltaire, will find the 
 Pont du Carrousel, or des Saints Peres, a most elegant 
 bridge of three iron arches, of 47 metres span, resting on stone 
 piers. It was built by M. Polonceau, in 1834. The arches 
 consisting of five ribs between each couple of piers, connected 
 with the upper bars by decreasing circular hoops, are formed of 
 hollow pieces containing wood and pitch. It cost l,030,000fr. 
 Its extremities are adorned with four seated statues of stone on 
 pedestals, by Petitot, representing, on the side towards the 
 Tuileries, Industry and Abundance; on the other, the Seine 
 and Paris. 
 
 At No. 1, rue de Beaune, on this quay, is the hotel in 
 which Voltaire resided for some time previous to his death 
 and where he died. His nephew, M. de Villette, kept his 
 apartment closed afterwards, as did also Mme. de Montmo- 
 rency, the next proprietor of the house, so that it remained 
 unopened for forty-seven years. On this quay are numerous 
 shops of dealers in prints, articles of vertu, and second- 
 hand books. 
 
 PIPTEEHTH ITALZ. 
 
 This comprises the 6th and 14th arrondissements. The 
 Marciii5 St. Germain, built in the year 1811, by Blondel 
 on the spot where the Fofre St. Germain used to lie held* 
 is a parallelogram, 276 feet in length, bv 225 in breadth! 
 It contains nearly four hundred stalls. 
 
 24 
 
370 
 
 FIFTEENTH WALK. 
 
 Not far from this is the church of . , . » , 
 
 St. Sulpice, — a splendid structure, designed by Levau, and 
 be^un in 1655, when the first stone was laid by Anne of Aus- 
 tria but not finished until 1742, when funds were raised by 
 the rector, Languet de Gergy, for the purpose, by means of 
 cVlottery.’’ Servandoni finished the magnificent front in 1745; 
 the two steeples were raised by Maclauren, in 17 49 ; the nor- 
 thern one was altered and finished by Chalgrin,in 1777. 
 
 Exterior The portico is composed of a double range of 
 
 Doric columns, 40 feet in height, and is approached by a llight 
 of steps which are intersected by the plinths of each couple. 
 It supports a gallery and colonnade of the Ionic order, front- 
 iiw an arched gallery, with columns 38 feet in height; above 
 was a pediment, destroyed by lightning in 1779, and now 
 replaced by a balustrade. Under the portico are three en- 
 trLces with niches between, and seven alti-rihevi above, 
 illustrative of the cardinal virtues. The principal entrance 
 Is tanked with statues of Sts. Peter and Paul, by Emile 
 Thomas. The ceiling is in compartments, exquisitely sculp- 
 tured. The summit of the northern tower is 210 feet high. 
 The towers consist ol four stories each, but are not perfectly 
 svmmetrical. The sonthern one, distinguished by two 
 rows of columns of the Doric and Ionic orders, is ornamented 
 with statues of St. John and St. Joseph; that of the north 
 nresents the Composite and Corinthian orders, with statues of 
 St Peter and St. Paul. It has three bells, of 12 , 500 , 8,500, 
 
 and 1 800 lbs. respectively. The back of the church is ellip- 
 lical with an overhanging semicircular turret ; slender turrets, 
 “ntwa^vimlins slSrB flank the body ot the cho,^ The 
 plan of the building is cruciform; its total length 432, its 
 
 breadth 174, and its. height 99 feet. 
 
 Interior — Aisles surround both nave and choir, and cha- 
 pels correspond to each arcade. The pilasters are Corinthian; 
 the vaulted roof of the choir is elaborately ornamented witli 
 <jcpoll-work. At the entrance of the nave are two shells of the 
 largest tridachna gigas known, resting upon curious rock- 
 work in n^nrble, executed by Pigalle ; they were given to 
 Francis I. by the Republic of Venice. The pulpit is orna- 
 mented with figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity. The organ- 
 callerv rests on twelve Composite columns. The organ, by 
 Clicquot, is richly carved, presenting seventeen tigures paying 
 on musical instruments or supporting cornucopia?, and is the 
 finest in exterior of any in Pans. The principal figure 
 is Kiiw David. On the pavement of the transept is a 
 meridian line traced by Lemonnier in 1743, and continued 
 Soim an obelisk of white marble, in the northern transept. 
 
ST. SULPlCE. 371 
 
 TJ. trays of tlie sun, passing through an aperture in a metal 
 plate in the window of the southern transept, form upon 
 the pavement a luminous circle, about 10 % inches in dia- 
 meter, which moves across the line, and at noon is bisected 
 by it. The ceiling of the cross contains four good paint- 
 ings of saints in medallions ; and underneath, at the 
 entrance of the choir, stands the high altar, decorated with 
 a profusion of splendidly-gilt ornaments, and separated from 
 the nave by a balustrade of bronze and marble. It has a 
 bas-relief in bronze; Christ preaching in the Temple, the 
 work of M. Choiselin. The candelabra are of exquisite 
 workmanship. The following is a description of the chapels, 
 beginning from the right on entering. — 1st chapel, painted by 
 Delacroix: In the cupola: the Archangel crushing the Evil 
 One; on the walls, Balthazar driven from the temple by 
 angels ; Jacob wrestling with the Angel. — 2d, painted in 
 fresco by Heim, with the Consolation in Death, the Efficacy of 
 prayers for the Dead, and the Father, Son, and Virgin Mary, 
 in the ceiling. — 3d. St. Roch praying for the cessation of the 
 pestilence ; his Death, his Apotheosis, on the ceiling In the 
 spandrils of the arches are the personifications of the cities of 
 Rome, Piacenza, Cesena, and Acquapendente, all admirable 
 frescoes, by Abel de Pujol. — 4th, painted in fresco by Vinchon, 
 with passages of the life of St. Maurice. In the ceiling are 
 angels bearing the crowns of martyrdom, and in the penden- 
 tives, figures of Religion, Fortitude, Hope, and Charity. On 
 the altar is a marble statue of St. Maurice. — 5th. A marble 
 monument to Languet de Gergy. The prelate is seen kneeling 
 on a sarcophagus, whilst an angel chases death from his side. 
 The stained glass in the window of this chapel represents the 
 Eucharist. In the transept : St. Gregory and the miraculous 
 rag. (1) Beyond the transept is, 6th. The sacristy, fitted 
 up with richly-carved wainscoting. — 7th. St. Denis preach- 
 ing, and his martyrdom, by Jobbe-Duval. — 8th and 9tli. 
 (provisionally closed.) — loth. The Virgin learning to read; 
 St. Peter healing the lame man, by Palliere. — 11th. The 
 Lady Chapel, behind the choir, which is entirely en- 
 crusted with marhle and adorned with the most gorgeous 
 sculpture and gilding. The altar is Corinthian; the marble 
 statue of the Virgin with the Infant, the work of Pigalle, stands 
 in a recess lighted from above. The chapel has a double dome, 
 
 (i) Ambassadors having been sent lo him witli a request to 
 send their master some relic, he gave them an old rag. The 
 ambassadors looKing rather blank at this oddpreseni, be slit 
 Ibe rag with a knil'e, when lo, drops of blood issued from the 
 rent. The ambassadors, of course, went away quite delighted" 
 
372 FIFTEENTH WALK, 
 
 the upper one painted in fresco by Lemoine, representing the 
 Ascension of Christ. On the walls are four paintings, the An- 
 nunciation, Visitation, Birth of the Saviour, and Presentation in 
 the Temple, by Vanloo.— 1 2th. St. Louis praying, by Drolling ; 
 St. Fiacre refusing the crown of Scotland, by Dejuinne.— 13th. 
 (provisionally closed.)— 14th. St. Charles Borromeo relieving 
 the plague-stricken at Milan, by Granger; the Marriage of the 
 Vir'^in, by A. Percda (1640).— 1 5th. St. John the Evangelist 
 earned in triumph by his followers, and his martyrdom, by 
 
 Qlaize. 16 th. The baptismal chapel. In the left transept 
 
 we see Jesus with the woman of Samaria; the death of Sap- 
 phira, by Picot ; Joseph conducting Christ, by Remond ; 
 and jkus raising Jairus’s daughter. The 17 th chapel has some 
 rich carving, l)y Brun. — 18th. St. Vincent de Paule ha- 
 raivniing the’ sisters of Charity in favour of foundlings; 
 the'same assisting Louis XIII. in his last moments ; frescoes, 
 by Guillemot. There is also a splendid marble group of St. 
 Vincent de Paule with foundlings, by Cabuchot. In the ceiling 
 is the Apotheosis of that saint.— 19th. The Conversion of St. 
 Paul and his announcement of the Resurrection before the 
 Areo’pagus ; two frescoes painted by Drolling. The ceiling re- 
 presents the Apotheosis of the saint. — 21st. St. Francis de 
 Sales preaching, and the same instituting the Order of the 
 Visitation ; his Apotheosis in the ceiling ; all by Hesse.-^22d. 
 St. Xavier reviving a corpse in the presence of idolatrous 
 sava«^es ; his burial and Apotheosis, by Lafon. On the piers of 
 the (Tioir and transepts are statues of the twelve apostles, on 
 brackets; and, on each side of the choir, the angels of Sacred 
 Eloquence and Martyrdom, by Desboeufs and Drotz. Old 
 and modern stained glass of great merit adorns the windows 
 of this church. The upper gallery is worth visiting. (1) 
 Fronting this church is the 
 
 Fontaine de St. Sulpice.— ThePlace St. Sulpice, first pro- 
 iected by Servandoni, was formed in 17 54; at the peace of 
 Amiens, the fountain which is now in the Marche St. Germain 
 was placed there by order of Napoleon. The present fountain, 
 by Visconti, consists of three concentric octagonal basins in- 
 tersected by sculptured plinths. From the centre of the upper- 
 most rises a quadrangular body, flanked with fluted Corinthian 
 pilasters, between which are circular niches filled with the 
 statues of Fenelon, Bossuet, Flechier, and Massillon. The 
 water issues from four vases into the uppermost basin, and 
 four recumbent lions grace the intermediate one. 
 
 A flower-market is held here on Mondays and Thursdays. 
 
 ii) A calorifere exploded in this church Jan. 8lh, 1858, liilling 
 three ersons and severely wounding five move. 
 
PETIT LUXEMBOURG. 73 
 
 On the southern side stands the Seminaire de St. Sulpice, 
 a large plain building, erected in 1820, which contains atheo- 
 logical library of 20,000 vols. (See p. 1(2.) 
 
 West of the fountain, is the Mairie of the 6th arron- 
 dissement. The ground floor is Doric; the upper story Corin- 
 thian, surmounted by a small campanile and clock. 
 
 In the rue Garanciere, No. 8, is a fine hotel, foi’merly be- 
 longing to the Duchess of Savoy. The front is adorned with 
 a range of Ionic pilasters, with boldly-projecting rams’ heads, 
 instead of volutes. In the same street is a fountain, erected 
 in 1715, by Anne of Bavaria, widow of the Prince of Comic. 
 
 Opposite this street stands the 
 
 Petit Luxembourg.— This hotel, which is a dependency of 
 the palace of the Luxembourg (see p. 374,) was commenced 
 about 1629 by Richelieu, who resided in it while the Palais 
 Royal was building. His niece, the Duchess d’Aiguillon, to 
 whom he aflerwards presented it, left it to Henry Jules de 
 Bourbon Conde, after whose death Anne of Bavaria, his 
 widow, occupied and repaired it. Under the Directory, four 
 of the directors inhabited it, the fifth living in the Luxem- 
 bourg. Bonaparte resided here six months, before he removed 
 to the Tuileries. It w'as afterwards the residence of the Chan- 
 cellor of France, as President of the Chamber of Peers. In 1848 
 the Tribunal des Conflits used to hold its sittings in this pa- 
 lace, and it is now the residence of the president of the Se- 
 nate. At the western end is a chapel, built by Mr. Gisors on 
 the site of one belonging to the ancient cloister of the Filles 
 du Calvaire, the ruins of which were brought to light in 1848 
 by the demolition of a small prison attached to this hotel, for 
 prisoners under trial by the Court of Peers. (I) The present 
 chapel (inaugurated Dec. 5th, 1855) is in the style of 
 the 15th century, with a square tower facing the rue de 
 Vaugirard, and a pedimented front and niches facing the 
 garden of the Luxembourg. A cloister extends from it, en- 
 closing a square. 
 
 Turning to the left into the rue de Vaugirard, we find, at 
 the corner of the rue de Conde, the site of a house once in- 
 habited by the poet Clement Marot. Further on is the Theatre 
 de TOdeon (see Theatres). Returning a few steps, and turn- 
 ing into the rue de Tournon, we perceive the old hotel of 
 Concino Concini, Marshal d’Ancre, now conveited into bar- 
 racks. When pillaged by the populace in 1017, upwards of 
 600,000fr. worth of jewels fell into their hands. Louis XIII. 
 
 (l) The ministers of Charles X., and afterwards Lcconite and 
 Henry, who attempted the life of Louis Philippe, were eonlined 
 in this prison, 
 
374 FIFTEENTH WALK, 
 
 lived in it for some time. But the chief point of interest 
 
 here is the 
 
 Palace of the Luxembourg, (l) — Upon the site of this 
 palace Robert de Harlay de Sancy erected a large house, sur- 
 rounded by gardens, in the 16th century. This mansion was 
 purchased and enlarged, in 1583, by the Duke d’Epinay- 
 Luxembourg; Marie de Medicis bought it for 90,000 fr. 
 in 1612, when the present palace was built, by Jacques Des- 
 brosses, upon the model of the Pitti palace at Florence. It 
 was then called by her name. On being bequeathed to 
 Gaston de France, Duke of Orleans, her second son, it as- 
 sumed the name of Palais d’ Orleans. It was afterwards ceded, 
 for 500,000 livres, to Anne Marie Louise d’Orleans, Duchess 
 de Montpensier ; and in 1672 to Elisabeth d’Orleans, Duchess 
 de Guise and d’Alencon, who, in 1694, sold it to Louis 
 XIV. Afterwards it was inhabited by the Duchess of Bruns- 
 wick, and by Madame d’Orleans, queen-dowager of Spain, 
 on whose death Louis XVI, gave it to his brother, 
 afterwards Louis XVIIL, who occupied it till he left 
 France, in June 1791. During the first years of the first 
 revolution it was converted into a prison. In 1795 the 
 sittings of the Directory were held there, and it was then called 
 Palais du Directoire. When Bonaparte came into power, it 
 was at first devoted to the sittings of the consuls, and received 
 the name of Palais du Consulat, and, shortly after, that of 
 Palais du Senat Conservateur. This senate held its sittings 
 there till its dissolution in 1814, when the Chamber of Peers 
 was created. In March and April 1848 Louis Blanc held 
 his socialist meetings of workmen there. In the subsequent 
 month of May, the Executive Commission occupied it during 
 its ephemeral existence. Private authorised societies were 
 afterwards permitted occasionally to hold extraordinary public 
 sittings in the late Chamber of Peers, and since 1852 it has 
 resumed its old destination and name of Palais du Senat. (2) 
 
 Exterior. — The edifice is remarkable for the beauty of its 
 proportions, and its solidity. The court forms a parallelo- 
 gram of 360 feet, by 300. The front towards the rue do 
 Vaugirard consists of two large pavilions, connected toge- 
 ther by terraces, in the centre of which rises a cupola, sur- 
 rounded with statues. This front is connected with the prin- 
 
 (1) For a more detailed account, and interesting anecdotes 
 connected with this palace, see History of Paris, 3 vols. 8 vo., 
 published by Messrs. Galignani and Co. 
 
 (2) At the close of the session of 1847 the number of peers was 
 305. The present number of Senators is 1 50, exclusive of the 
 Princes of the Blood, Cardinals, and Archbishops. 
 

PALACE OF THE LUXEMBOURG. 37 5 
 
 cipal'pile of building, by two arcaded corridors. Four large 
 square pavilions terminate the angles of the main building, 
 which consists of a raised ground-floor, an upper story, and 
 attic. A new building entirely screens the lower and partially 
 theupper portion of the back of the original edifice. The clock 
 pavilion is ornamented with allegorical figures, 8 feet high, of 
 Eloquence, Justice, Wisdom, Prudence, War, and Peace, by Pra- 
 dier.The clock (by Lepaute), is surmounted by IwoGenii, and a 
 figure of Fame in bas-relief. The lower story is decorated with 
 bossaged Tuscan pilasters, the second with Doric, and the 
 third with Ionic pilasters. The grand staircase is Ionic. 
 
 Interior.— On entering the apartments now occupied by 
 the Senate, the first room, called Salle des Gardes, is adorned 
 with statues of Aristides, Cincinnalus, Cicero, Leonidas, Solon, 
 by Roland, and Pericles, by Masson. Next follows the 
 Salle d’Attente, where a pedestal, formerly adorned with 
 the statue of the late Duke of Orleans, now bears the 
 statue of Julius Ctcsar, of bronze and marble, brought here 
 from the Louvre. The ceiling, by Jadin, represents Aurora. 
 There are, besides, statues of Hope and Perseus, Achilles and 
 Briseis, by Pollet, and busts of Tally Tollendal, Simeon, and 
 Cuvier, the walls of the adjoining Salon de I’Emperettr are 
 decorated with paintings representing ; Charles IX. receiving 
 the keys of Paris from I’Hopital, who refuses his consent to 
 the massacre of St. Bartholomew, by Caminade; St. louis, by 
 Flandrin ; the Duke of Guise (Le Balafre) proposing the League 
 to Harlay, by Vinchon ; Louis XIII. and Richelieu, by Ca- 
 banel, and Charlemagne dictating the Capitularies, by Bou- 
 chot. Here is also a full-length statue of the Emperor, in 
 white marble, by Jaley. The ceiling, by Decaisne, repre- 
 sents Union, Force, and Abundance ; and, in a small medal- 
 lion, a portrait of the Due de Reichstadt. Next follows the 
 tasteful and magnificent 
 
 Salle du Trdne, an immense hall, formed out of the old 
 salle of that name, the old Salle du Senat, and the Salle des 
 Conferences. This splendid saloon is gorgeously gilt and 
 sculptured ; the three ceilings belonging to the old Salles above 
 mentioned, are now amalgamated into one, terminating in 
 hemicycles, with a cupola in the centre, and charged with 
 twooctagonal compartments and eight medallions. The throne, 
 occupying the central wall to the right, where the old Salle du 
 Sena^ was, is decoratedwilh an unsparing hand; itconsistsof 
 a canopy supported by six caryatides, standing on a platform 
 ascended by four steps, the whole profusely carved and gilt. 
 To follow the order in which the visitor is conducted, we 
 shall first describe the paintings at the end nearest the en- 
 
37 6 FIFTEENTH WALK. 
 
 trance, viz. Napoleon 1. elected Emperor^ by Signol ; the 
 signing of the Concordat, by Hesse ; the forty flags taken 
 at Aiisterlitz displayed before Napoleon I., by Phelippoteaux • 
 Napoleon I. at the Invalides, by Couderc, The subject of the 
 hemicycle at the end, represents the history of French civili- 
 zation, from the defeat of Attila by Aetius, down to the se- 
 cond race of kings. Both this and the opposite hemicycle, 
 which continues the same subject down to Louis XIV., are 
 by Lehmann. The octagons and medallions, painted by 
 Brune, represent Pacific and Warlike France ; manufactures, 
 electricity, &c. The central compartment represents the 
 Corps Legislatif. The ceiling of the central cupola, by 
 
 Alaux, represents the triumph of universal suffrage: the 
 number 7,500,000 on the urn expresses the voles given to 
 the present Emperor. At the corners of this part of the 
 saloon are four marble statues by Duret. A door to the right 
 will lead the visitor into the elegant Galeriedes liustes, which 
 runs parallel to the Salle du Tr6ne, and is filled with busts 
 of the great generals and statesmen of the first Empire, such 
 as Jourdan, Macdonald, the Cardinal de Belloy, etc. The ceil 
 ing is by Vauchelet. We now enter the 
 
 Salle du Senat, destroyed by fire October 28 , 1859 , but 
 now restored to its former state 1 ). The hall is semicircular, 
 ninety-two feet in diameter, and covered by an hemispherical 
 vault, painted by Abel de Pujol, in compartments, containing 
 allegories . of Law, Justice, Wisdom, and Patriotism. The 
 ceiling is supported by eighteen Composite columns. In a 
 semicircular recess are the seats of the President and Secre- 
 taries, approached by steps. Eight composite columns sup- 
 port the cupola of this recess, and, between them, on plinths, 
 are the statues of Turgot, d’Aguesseau, L’Hopital, CoUiert, 
 Mathieu Mole, Malesherbes, and Portalis. In front of the 
 galleries are busts of Marshals Massena, Lannes, Gouvion St. 
 Cyr, and Mortier. On each side of the recess arc large pic- 
 tures representing Louis XL with the Dauphin receiving the 
 Deputies of Paris, and Philippe de Valois congratulated by 
 the Peers on the reforms he had introduced, both by Blondel. 
 At the corners of the Salle, in elevated niches, are the statues 
 of Charlemagne and St. Louis, in a sitting posture. The 
 desks of the stenographers stand near the seats of the senators, 
 who are at present 105 in numher. Prince Napoleon’s seat 
 is the first of the bottom row near the entrance to the right; 
 next follow those of the Cardinals ai>d Marshals. Opposite, 
 and in a row in front of the President’s chair, there are seven 
 
 (1) The fire fortunately did not extend to the archives, the 
 library, or the Salle du Trone, all of which were in danger. 
 
PALACE OF THE LUXEMBOURG. 377 
 
 seats for the Minister of State, the President of the Council 
 of State, and the Councillors appointed to support the mea- 
 sures proposed by Government. The sittings of the Senate 
 are not public. 
 
 We now re-enter the Galerie des Busies at the other end, 
 similar to that already seen, and thence pass to the other ex- 
 tremity of the Salle du Trone. The central compartment of 
 the ceiling on this side, by Brune, represents the completion 
 of the Louvre. The other paintings on this side are: the 
 Return of the Pope to Rome in 1849, by Benouville ; Na- 
 poleon ill. visiting the works of the New Louvre, by Gosse ; 
 the Distribution of the Eagles in the Champ de Mars'in I 852 ’ 
 by Pils ; the Senate proclaiming the Empire, by Couderc. 
 
 Adjoining the Salle du Trdne there is on tliis side, to the 
 right, the Cabinet de I’Empereur, a room of simple design. 
 
 The paintings here represent- Napoleon III. returning from 
 St. Cloud, by Couderc, and the Marriage of the present 
 Empress, by Fleury ; Napoleon I. signing the Peace of Cam- 
 poformio, by Brisset; and the 18th Brumaire, by Vinchon. 
 
 On the mantelpiece is a bust of the present Emperor in 
 porcelain, by Gille. In the adjoining Salle des Cent Gardes 
 there is a marble statue of Jeanne Hachette, by Bonassieux (1). 
 
 On descending to the ground floor by the Escalicr privd de 
 I' E7nperciir , we find to our right the 
 
 Chambres de .Marie de Medicis, originally three rooms, the . 
 first of which was used by that princess as a chapel, but has ^ 
 now been partitioned off to make a porter’s lodge. The first 
 room we enter now was the Salle d’aUntte, now containing 
 nothing but the present Emperor’s bust. Adjoining is the 
 Chambre a couch er de Marie de Medicis, a splendid 
 apartment, decorated in the sumptuous style of her time. 
 
 The arm-chairs^ now. in this chamber were used at the corona- 
 tion of NapotSbn. The panels are all richly gilt and painted in 
 compartments, four by Philippe de Champagne, and four by 
 Nicholas Poussin. The centre of the ceiling represents Marie 
 de Medicis, by Rubens, and eight square comparlments which 
 it contains are by Philippe de Champagne. Those to the right 
 are family-portraits of the house of Medicis; those to the left, of 
 
 (1) The visitor may here endeavour to obtain access to the 
 ■Lifcrari/, which is not-open to the public. It is a splendid gal- 
 lery exlending Ihe whole length of the garden front, and con- 
 tains 40,000 volumes, including the journals and reports of the 
 House ol Lords. In the centre oftlie gallery is a hemicycle and 
 cupola painted by Delacroix, represenling the Elysium of great 
 men as we find it described by Dante. The poet is conducted 
 by Virgil, who presents him to Homer, Horace, etc. Around the 
 
378 FIFTEENTH WALK, 
 
 that of Henry IV. There are also four paintings by Rubens in 
 this room. The scroll-work on the walls is exceedingly delicate 
 and beautiful. The furniture of the period has been 
 repaired, and placed here; it is gold and crimson velvet. 
 At the revolution of 17 89 the panelling and paintings were 
 taken down and concealed, but were replaced in 1817. In 
 the case of marriages of senators or their daughters, the 
 parties meet in these rooms to sign the contract. Returning 
 to the vestibule, we now enter the 
 
 Chapel of the Paface.— A parallelogram 69 feet by 20, of 
 rich Doric design, and receiving light from the court through 
 four windows. The vault is divided into compartments deco- 
 rated and gilt in the richest style. The circular compartments 
 representing the four Evangelists, and the eight medallions 
 representing angels, each holding an instrument of the Passion, 
 are by Vauchelct. Opposite the windows are four large 
 paintings by Gigoux, representing the apostle Philip, St. Louis 
 pardoning traitors, St. Louis in Palestine, and the Marriage of 
 the Virgin ; and behind the high altar is an immense fresco 
 by Abel de Pujol, representing the Throne of God (Rev. iv.). 
 Behind the altar, fronting the back entrance, we see an Adora- 
 tion of the Shepherds, by Simon White, an American artist. 
 In a niche in the wall opposite the altar is an admirable group 
 of an Angel and two children, by Jaley; and the holy water 
 basins are attached to richly sculptured marble pedestals, sur- 
 mounted by angels. Private mass is performed here daily. 
 
 GaUcriiof Modern Art. — In the buildings on the eastern 
 side oftEe^iidnsT^^ paintings, formed by order 
 
 of Mai-ie de Medicis, and at first composed of twenty-four large 
 pictures, by Rubens, representing the allegorical history of 
 that queen. It was afterwards increased by several pictures 
 
 cupola are Alexander, Achilles, Pyrrhus, Hannibal, Caesar, 
 Marcus Aurelius, Socrates, Plato, Orpheus, Hesiod, and Sappho. 
 The five compartments of the ceiling to the left of the cupola, 
 by Riesner, represent the Gospel, Law, History, Philosophy , and 
 Poetry ; those to the right, by Roqneplan, represent Industry, 
 Military Genius, Eloquence, Political Science, and Malheniatics. 
 At the extremilies of the library are statues of Montesquieu, by 
 Nanteuil, and Etienne Pasciuicr, by Foyatier. In circular niches 
 are four allegorical statues by Simart and Desboenfs, repre- 
 senting Music, Philosophy, History, and Sciences ; also busts of 
 Rarb6 Marbois, Fontanes, Cuvier, the Dulies of Albufcra, de la 
 Rochefoucaull, and Richelieu ; Marshals Macdonald, Maison.and 
 Jourdain; Marquis de la Place, Lally Tollendal, and the Chan- 
 cellor d’Ambray. The adjoining reading-room was decorated 
 hy Messrs. Boulanger, Scheffer, and Picot. There are two alle- 
 gorical statues by M. Jouffroy, and one of Gouvion St. Cj r, 
 
 M. Seurre, 
 
GARDEN OF THE LUXEMBOURG. 379 
 
 which helongcd to the queen-dowager of Spain, and by others 
 from the king’s cabinet. The gallery was long neglected, and 
 about the year 17 80 the paintings were removed to form the 
 museum of the Louvre. The pictures were brought back 
 when the victories of Napoleon had filled the Louvre with the 
 finest works of art in Europe, but were again removed there 
 m 1815. The pulilic are admitted to the gallery by a glass 
 door within the railing of the garden at the north-eastern end. 
 The first suite consists of a long gallery with a room at each 
 extremity, and contains the choicest works of Eugene Dela- 
 croix, Rosa Bonheur, Couture, C. L. Muller, Cogniet, Court, 
 5cc. Changes are continually taking place in the arrangement 
 of this gallery, in consequence of the rule which orders the 
 works of each artist, on his decease, to Ge removed to the 
 Louvre. The ceiling of the Long Gallery is painted by Jordaens 
 in i 2 compartments, representing the signs of the zodiac ; the 
 Rising of Aurora, in the centre, is by Callet. The room at 
 the further end is enriched with Duret’s well-known statues 
 of Neapolitan villagers, in bronze. Returning to the Long 
 Gallery, a side door opposite the entrance leads through a 
 covered passage on the terrace to a I’otunda, containing various 
 groups and statues, both marble and bronze, by some of the 
 best modern sculptors. Beyond this there are five rooms, 
 one of which, to the right on entering, exclusively contains 
 paintings by M. Ingres, and his cartoons of the subjects which 
 decorate the windows of the chapels of Dreux and St. Ferdi- 
 nand. In the entrance-room there is a fine marble bust of 
 Father Ventura by Oliva, and in the first room to the left a 
 painting of the Battle of the Alma by Lami. The other pic- 
 tures are described in the Catalogue, sold on the spot. From 
 the last of the suite a fine view is obtained of the grand staircase. 
 
 The Gallei’y of Paintings is open to the public on Sundays, 
 and on all other days, except Mondays, from 12 to 4. The 
 apartments and chapel are visible daily from lo to 4, but not 
 during the Session of the Senate. 
 
 Garden. — The garden was first planted by Desbrosses, at 
 the time of the erection of the palace. In 1792, the finest 
 trees were cut down, with the intention of building cafes, ball- 
 rooms, &c., and establishing a fair, but the ground thus 
 cleared remained waste till 1801. Since then great improve- 
 ments have been made in this garden. Its general plan 
 consists of a central part, composed of an octagonal basin 
 surrounded with grass-plots, skirted by flower-beds, and 
 Hanked right and left with elevated baluslraded terraces shaded 
 with fine chestnut groves. Spacious flights of stairs descend 
 from the terraces into the central part, which is decorated with 
 
FIFTEENTH WALK. 
 
 380 
 
 numerous marble statues, chiefly copies from the antique, 
 such as the Diana Venatrix and the AthlHe. Facing the 
 palace is Archidamus, by Lemaire, and around the semi- 
 circular paths, right and left, we see Ilippomenes, by Ottin ; 
 Vulcan, by Bridau (1771) ; the Seasons, Minerva, etc. The 
 chestnut groves above mentioned are skirted with the fol- 
 lowing statues, beginning from the east; — 1 . Bathilde, wife of 
 Clovis II., by Therasse ; 2. Bertrada, wife of Pepin lellref, by 
 Oudine ; 3. Queen Hudrogote, by Elshoect ; 4, Ste. Genevieve, 
 by Mercier; 5. Marie Stuart, by Maindron; 6. Jeanne d’Albret, 
 by Brian; 7. Clemence Tsaure, by Preault; 8. Mile, de Monl- 
 pensier, by Demesmay; 9. Louise de Savoie, by Clesinger; 
 10. Jeanne d’Arc, by Rude. On the opposite terrace, begin- 
 ning from the south, are the following ; 11. Lame de Noves, 
 by Ottin; 12. Marie de Medicis, by Caillouette; 13. Mar- 
 guerite de Valois, by Lescorne; 14. Valentine de Milan, by 
 Huguenin; 15. Anne de Beaujeu, by Gatteaux ; 16. Blanche 
 de Castille, by Dumont; 17. Anne d’Autriche, by Ramus; 
 18. Anne de Bretagne, by Debay; 19. Marguerite de Pro- 
 vence, by Husson; 20. Queen Clotilde, by Klagmann. The 
 eastern side of the garden has been encroached upon by the 
 Boulevard de Sebastopol and the rue de Medicis. Its chief 
 ornament now is a fountain built by Catherine de Medicis, 
 after the designs of Desbrosses ; its niche is adorned with a 
 group representing Polyphemus discovering Acis and Galatea. 
 On the side facing the street, there is a bas-relief, by Valois, 
 representing Jupiter and Leda. In the adjoining grass-plot 
 stands a beautiful marble group, by Garrand, of Cain and his 
 family after the death of Ahel. From the central part of the 
 garden a wide avenue extended to the Boulevard du Mont 
 Parnasse ; but a great part of this, as well as a narrow slip 
 on the western side, have now been lopped off to make room 
 for streets ; a measure which caused much discussion in 
 Paris. The western grove of chestnut trees is interspersed with 
 cafes and kiosks, where the daily papers may be read, and 
 further north is a large orangery, surrounded by walks, 
 shrubberies, and flower-beds, bordering on the Petit Luxem- 
 bourg (see p. 373.) In this orangery M. Rivier, the head 
 gardener, gives gratuitous lectures on pruning and grafting. 
 There is also a collection of about 500 different kinds of vine, 
 brought from foreign countries ; likewise a model apiary, 
 lectures being given here annually by M. Hamet on the rearing 
 of bees. Nine gates afford access to this beautiful garden, which 
 has a handsome railing on the side of the rue de Vaugirard. 
 The garden is 919 metres long by 570 in breadth. The area is 
 340,064 square metres. It is open from daybreak to dusk. 
 
CONVENT OP CAIIMELITES. 381 
 
 Close by the western gate of the Luxembourg, in the rue de 
 Fleurus, is the small Thedtre da Luxembourg (see p. 471), 
 f The me de Madame leads to the rue de Vaugirard, where 
 j we see to our left, at No. 70, the ’ 
 
 Convent des Carmelites, now a convent of Dominican 
 friars. M. Lacordaire, the celebrated preacher, belonged to this 
 brotherhood. Part of the ancient house, with the Chapel, is 
 still appropriated to religious purposes; the rest is occupied ’by 
 private tenants. The chapel, dedicated to St. Joseph, is cruci- 
 form and of the Tuscan order, without aisles. The foundation 
 stone was laid in 1 6 1 3 , by Marie de Medicis. The dome, painted 
 by Flamel, represents Elijah in his flaming car ; the altar has 
 Corinthian pillars of black marble. The altar-piece represents 
 the Death of St. Joseph. Under the communion table is an 
 ancient alto-rilievo, in white marble, representing the Last 
 Supper. A bas-relief, in gilt bronze, representing the Circum- 
 cision is under the altar table of the left transept. The 
 chapels are adorned with scroll-work and old paintings, and 
 the first to the left is decorated with a ceiling in fresco, repre- 
 senting St. Camillus. In the following one there are some old 
 paintings, illustrating several legends of saints, revived. It 
 was in this convent the massacres began in Paris, in September, 
 1792. Hundreds of priests, imprisoned here, were murdered! 
 The heart of Archbishop Affre is also preserved in this convent 
 (see p. 28 1 ). The well-known Eau de Melisse and the Blanc 
 des Carmes are still sold here. 
 
 At No. 39, rue du Cherche-Midi, we see the Hdtel de Tou- 
 louse, where courts-martial are held. The building opposite 
 is a military prison. 
 
 Returning to the rue de Vaugirard, the visitor will find, at 
 No. 109, a new Communal School, both for children and 
 adults. The facade is adorned with a fine bas-relief, by Millet, 
 representing Paris affording instruction to childhood. 
 
 Next door to this, at No. Ill, there is an immense reser- 
 voir, which receives water from the basin of la Villette and the 
 Artesian well of Crenelle, and supplies the faubourg St. Ger- 
 main. It contains 216,000 cubic feet of water. 
 
 On the Boulevard Montparnasse, to our left, so called from 
 its having been in the olden time a favourite place of resort of 
 the students of the University, who used there 1o indulge 
 in reading verses, spouting Latin, and other academical 
 pastimes, is the 
 
 Western Railway Terminus, a vast and elegant building, 
 facing the rue de Rennes, which is to be continued to the 
 Seine. The terminus occupies 216,000 square metres. The 
 front consists of two pavilions connected by a portico of 7 
 
382 PIFTEENtri WALK. 
 
 arches, over which are seen the gables of the arrival and 
 
 departure sheds. 
 
 Nearly opposite this. No. 25, was the house of Marshal 
 Turenne. 
 
 In the rue de Rennes there stands a small Gothic chapel, 
 built of wood rendered incombustible by a chemical process. 
 
 It is soon to be rebuilt of stone. 
 
 Striking into the rue Notre Dame des Champs, the visitor 
 will see, at No. 22, the College Stanislas fsee p. 98,) and 
 further on, at No. 51, a splendid Gothic building, still in 'pro- 
 gress, intended for a new hospice. Continuing along the same 
 street, he will reach the Boulevard de Sebastopol, which 
 skirts the garden of the Luxembourg, and will lead him to 
 the Jardin Botanique de I’Ecole de Medecme, now in a 
 piteous state, but which will soon be again stocked with 
 medicinal plants. Open from May 1 to Aug. 31, from o to 10 
 A.M., and from 3 to 7 p.m., except on Sundays and Fetes. 
 
 Lower down in the rue d’Enfer, at No. 30, is the 
 
 Ecole Imperiale des Mines, and Mineralogical Museum, 
 — This magnificent hotel, formerly called Hotel de Venddme, 
 was built in 1707, by a society of Carthusian monks, and 
 afterwards purchased by the Duchess of Vendome. The insti- 
 tution to which it is now appropriated was projected by Car- 
 dinal dc Fleury, and commenced in 17 83, but was not 
 definitively organized until 1816. Part of this vast building 
 has now been reconstructed, to make room for the Boule- 
 vard. Its front is plain, but tasteful ; a spacious court, en- 
 tered by a handsome railing, gives access to it. The professors 
 and directors of the school reside in the house. The entrance 
 room on the first floor contains a large skeleton of the Ichthyo- 
 saurus. To the right we find the staircase, the ceilings of 
 which are adorned with paintings by the late Abel dc Pujol. 
 The first ceiling on the ground floor represents Wlsdolx hold- 
 ing out her torch, while the Sciences are liste 1 1 , ^ to her 
 words. The walls are covered with landscapes ilnistrating 
 various geological formations, by Ilugard. The ..eiling above 
 is divided into three compartments: the 1 st represents France 
 seeking improvement through Geology and Steam ; the 2nd, 
 Glory awarding crowns to the most distinguished men of 
 science of France, from Descartes down to Cuvier; the 3rd, 
 Mineralogy and Chemistry. We now enter 13 large rooms, 
 containing a rnagnificent collection of minerals of all countries, 
 including that of Ilauy, removed hither from the Hotel desMon- 
 naies. Beginning from thefurthest room to the right on entering, 
 the minerals of Fra,jice are arranged according to the depart- 
 ments in alphaljetical order, in presses, while the stands con- 
 
EGLlSE DE LA SORBONNE. 383 
 
 tain minerals of all countries scientifically classified. In a 
 room adjoining to the first is a collection of the mineral pro- 
 ductions of the French colonies. A scries of ground and po- 
 lished Jaspers and agates are adjusted in the window panes of 
 the 7th room, to show their transparency. A lateral room con- 
 tains some geological specimens ; but the principal geological 
 collection, comprising that of the Paris Basin formed by MM.' 
 Cuvier and Brongniart, occupies six large rooms on the 2d 
 floor, accessible by a staircase in the 4th room to the right, 
 where a complete series of fossil bones, zoophytes, am- 
 monites, &c, will be found. Models in relief of Mount Etna, 
 by M. filie de Beaumont, and of Mount Vesuvius, by M. Du- 
 frenoy, will attract particular attention. There are also 
 four rooms filled with models of the various machines 
 used in mining, smelting furnaces, specimens of limber, 
 optical instruments, a plan in relief of the valley of Cha- 
 mouny, and a model of the galleries of the coal-pits of La 
 Grande Croix, in the department of the Loire. The first floor 
 also contains an assay office, which is not public, and on the 
 ground floor are laboratories, lecture-rooms, the council-cham- 
 ber, and the library, which contains G,000 volumes. About 
 250,000 specimens are contained in the museum, which is 
 open daily with passport, and to the public on Tuesdays, 
 Thursdays, and Saturdays, from 11 to 3. The library is 
 open daily to students and strangers, on application. Gratuit- 
 ous public lectures are delivered here on geology and minera- 
 logy during five months of the year (see p. 98). 
 
 In the me Monsieur le Prince, at No. 22, is the house for- 
 merly belonging to Jean Goujon, with his bust flanked by two 
 figures in alto-rilievo, representing Painting and Sculpture. 
 
 In the rue Racine, is a reservoir supplied with water from the 
 basin de la Villette, for the quartier St. Jacques. 
 
 The adjoining portion of the Boulevard Saint-Michel, to 
 the right, extends over the classical ground of the old col- 
 leges, such as those of Narbonne and Bayeux, now swept 
 away. To the right is the 
 
 Lycee St. Louis. — A college was founded on this spot as 
 early as 1280, by Raoul d’Harcourt, canon of Notre Dame, 
 from whom it took the name of College d’Harcourt. The 
 principal mass of the present building was begun in 1814, and 
 the college opened in 1820 ; but the whole front facing the 
 Boulevard has now been rebuilt with a monumental facade (see 
 p. 97). Nearly opposite is the 
 
 College de la Sobbo.nne — built on the Place of the same 
 name, where a celebrated school was founded by Robert Sor- 
 bon, in 1253, for a society of ecclesiastics, who might devote 
 
384 FIFTEENTH WALK. 
 
 themselves exclusively to study and gratuitous teaching. The 
 fame of this institution, which became the head of the Uni- 
 versity of Paris, and conferred such renown on the Gallican 
 church, is well known. The College du Plessis became 
 absorbed in it; and in 1629, Cardinal Richelieu, who had 
 graduated there, laid the first stone of the present build- 
 ings, to which considerable additions, comprising a surface 
 of 5,260 metres, are now being made, with a princi- 
 pal front in the rue des Ecoles, the first stone of which 
 was laid on the l4th of August, 1855. The total surface 
 occupied by the Sorbonne is now 12,000 metres. The old 
 buildings enclose a wide quadrangular court. For a list of the 
 lectures delivered here gratuitously, apply at the porter’s 
 lodge (see p. 93). — The library, now called Bibliothc.que de 
 I’Universite de France, consists of 80,000 volumes, and is 
 open daily from 10 to 3, and in the evening from 7 till 10, 
 festivals excepted. Vacation from July 11 to Aug. 25. 
 
 Ihe Church , begun in 1635, after the designs of Lemercier, 
 was finished in 1659. The front is pedimented, and of the 
 Corinthian and Composite orders. Behind the pediment 
 rises a magnificent dome, on a drmn adorned with clustered 
 Composite pilasters, bearing statues on their entablature. 
 Towards the court is a fine Corinthian portico of bold propor- 
 tions, with six columns in front, and four within, resting on a 
 flight of steps, and supporting a triangular pediment. The in- 
 terior is cruciform, of the Corinthian order, with chapels. 
 The dome is painted in medallions and compartments with 
 angels, emblems of religion, 6cc., and the pendentives with 
 Sts. Ambrose, Gregory, Jerome, and Augustin. The medal- 
 lions are by Philippe de Champagne. An oil painting by M. 
 Hesse, of Robert Sorbon presenting his theological pupils to St. 
 Louis, deserves attention. Above the arches and in the stained 
 glass of some of the windows are the arms of Cardinal de Riche- 
 lieu, and in the right transept is his celebrated tomb, the chef-d’- 
 oeuvre of Girardon, executed in 1694, (1) and one of the finest 
 pieces of sculpture of the 17th century. The statue of the car- 
 dinal, in a reclining posture, is sustained by Religion holding the 
 book which he composed in her defence. Near her are two 
 
 (i) During the revolution of i 789 , the tomb of Cardinal Riche- 
 lieu, liLe others, was desecrated, and liis head paraded through 
 the streets on a pike. M. Armez, father of the deputy under 
 Louis Philippe, got possession of it, and bequeathed it to his son, 
 ■who, however, has since given it up; and it was restored to 
 the Cardinal’s tomb witli great ceremony December itllt, 1866, 
 in the presence of the French Academy, the Minister of Public 
 Instruction, the Due de Richelieu, and olher distinguished 
 personages. 
 
I MOTEL DE CLUNY. 385 
 
 genii, who support the arms of the Cardinal. At the opposite 
 extremity is a woman in tears, who represents Science deplor- 
 ing tlie loss of her protector. Tire two figures of Science and 
 Religion are portraits of the Duchesses of Guyon and Fronsac 
 nieces to the'Cardinal. In the chapel to the right of the altar 
 is a monument, to the Due de Richelieu, minister under Louis 
 XVIII., partly executed by the late M. Ramey, but, unfortu- 
 nately, the finishing of this monument fell toless skilfulhands. 
 The Duke is represented in his dying moments, supported by 
 Religion. In the windows of the transept are St. Louis and 
 St. Ursula in stained glass. Few buildings in Pans suffered 
 more by the revolution of 17 89, than this church. It was 
 ^ repaired by Napoleon I. After the Restoration it was used as 
 a lecture-room of the. School of Law; hut, in 1825 it was 
 restored to divine worship. Open daily from 8 to lo a.m. ; at 
 a later hour the interior is shown by the porter for a small fee. 
 
 Descending the rue de la Sorbonne, the visitor will enter 
 the new Rue des Ecoles. Here stood a temple of Bacchus 
 and subsequenlly the church of St. Benoit, suppressed in 
 1791. ( 1 ) Opposite the rue de la Sorbonne is the 
 
 Hotel de Clunv, 14, rue des Mathurins, certainly one of 
 the finest remains of the ancient mansions of Paris of the 16th 
 century. It was begun, on part of the ruins of the Palais des 
 Thermes, by .lean de Bourbon, abbot of Cluny, about *l48o • 
 after his death, his successor, Jacques d’Ambofse, continued it 
 in 1490, and it was finished in 1505. This most inlerestiim 
 mansion was inhabited in 1515, by Mary, sister of Henry VHL 
 of England, and widow of Louis XIL, after the death of her 
 husband. Her bed-chamber is still called Chambre de la 
 Reine Blanche, it being the custom of the Oueons of Fi'ance 
 to wear white mourning. In 15;{6, .lames V. of Scotland 
 celebrated his marriage here with Madeleine, daughter of 
 Francis L In 1565 it served as a refuge to the CaiTlinal de 
 Lorraine, the Duke of Guise his nephew, and the Duke of Au- 
 male; in 1625 the Abbess of Port Roval and her nuns took 
 possession of it; from 1579 lo 1584 it belonged to a troop of 
 comedians ; and the Section of Marat held its sittings in it in 
 1793. At length, after various vicissitudes, it was pur- 
 chased by M. du Sommerard, a learned and enthusiastic an- 
 tiquarian, who formed here a valuable collection of objects of 
 lart of the middle ages, which his heirs sold to Government in 
 1843 for 500,000 fr., the hotel included. Since then, it has 
 been formed into a national museum of antiquities. The 
 
 : (i) The line of the Boulevard de Sehaslopol on this side of flie 
 
 river, entirely coincide.^ with Ihe otd Bomaii road which led 
 to Orleans, then called Genahum. 
 
 23 
 
386 FIFTEEMH WALK. 
 
 Gothic turrets and richly ornamented windows are the most 
 striking features of this remarkahle building (l). The turret 
 in the court was used as an observatory by Delisle, Lilande, 
 Bochart de Saron, and De Messier. The escutcheon of Jacques 
 d’Amhoise is visible above the gate, and the hotel has been 
 insulated by the demolition of the adjoining houses (2 . 
 
 Interior. — The entrance to the museums is by the tower ) 
 on the right. The first room contains plaster-casts, rilievos, 
 mosaics, &c. In tlie second room, a colossal white marble 
 chimney-piece, with a basso-rilievo of Christ and the Sama- 
 ritan, and the two canopied stalls, marked 532 and 537, de- 
 serve attention. This and the next two rooms contain re- 
 markable specimens of stained glass, triptychs, car\ ed furni- 
 ture of the 16th and 17th centuries, church ornaments and gar- 
 ments, 8cc. In the 2d and 3rd room glass stands contain 
 Roman and Gallic antiquities found at Beauvais, as also some 
 of those flint hatchets and arrow-heads dug up at St. Acheul, 
 Abbeville, aud considered by many geologists as sufficient 
 evidence of the existence of man many ages before the histo- 
 rical times. Here also we see a stall from the church of An- ' 
 gerolles, elaborately carved, of the 15th century. The stands 
 in the 4th room display various embroidered stuffs of the 15th 
 and 16th centuries. In the 5th room there is some fine Beau- 
 vais tapestry. A passage, in which the visitor will remark some 
 curious carvings and embroidery, and fragments of mural 
 paintings of the 9th century, leads to the A7icienne Salle des 
 Thermes, a lofty hall, built on the foundations of an old one, 
 which threatened ruin. Here are exposed to view ten speci- 
 mens of beautiful Flemish tapestry, seven of which illustrate 
 the history of David and Bathsheha. The various biblical 
 personages represented in them are dressed in the fashion of 
 Louis XII. These valuable relics were once the property of 
 the marquises of Spinola, of Genoa. In the centre of this 
 room is a pedestal with a marble group of tbe three Fates ; 
 also two Neapolitan cars of the l7th century; in the 
 corners there are glass presses filled with ecclesiastical attire 
 of various periods, and behind the pedestal, a stand, with the 
 remains of the crozier and vestments of a bishop of the 12th 
 century, and two others with medals and other small arti- 
 cles. Opposite the entrance an arched doorway opens into a 
 passage leading to a glazed shed, where we find four magni- 
 ficent state carriages of the reign of Louis XIV., adorned witli 
 
 H) See an essay by M. du Sommerard, on the Hotel de Cluny, 
 in the catalogue, lo he had on Ihe spot. 
 
 (2) The new street 11ms formed lies on Ihe site of one of old 
 Lutelia. 
 
Hotel de cLdny. 387 
 
 pTofuse carving and gilding, panels artistically painted, &c. 
 Three of them are provided with springs ; the fourth, perhaps 
 the richest of all, is only hung on straps. There are besides 
 two sedan-chairs, both elegantly painted with flowers. See. • 
 three sledges, one of which all gilt, and representing a di-a<^on • 
 and another, covered with Utrecht velvet, with a pair of 
 enormous jack-boots of the same period ; a small model of a 
 glass-coach, beautifully executed, and in the same style as 
 one of the vehicles already mentioned ; and lastly, a sort of 
 tilbury, besides old harness, 5cc. The walls are inappro- 
 priately hung with valuable Flemish tapestry, which mi<>-ht 
 have found a bettei place. Retracing our steps through the 
 great hall to the first passage, a wooden staircase, bearin" the 
 arras and initials of Henry IV., and transported hither Rom 
 the Palais de Justice, leads to the second story, the entrance- 
 passage of which has a balcony opening into the hall de- 
 scribed above, and contains, besides various weapons, suits 
 of armour and carved chests of curious workmanship. ’ This 
 passage gives access to two different suites; that to the 
 right consists of three rooms, containing valuable Flemish 
 tapestry and old furniture, ancient crockery, terra-cotta 
 enamels, pieces of Luca della Robbia and Bernard de Palissv’ 
 and old glass. Returning to the entrance-passage, the first 
 room of the front suite contains. No. 541, an ancient bed 
 profusely carved, said to have belonged to Francis I., when 
 Duke of Valois. In the stands we see some valuable’ MSS 
 weapons, tools, caskets, and tapestry. In the 2 d room’ 
 named after M. du Sommerard, we find some beautiful ivory 
 triptychs, a chessboard of rock-crystal, etc.. ; also several 
 splendid ebony presses among which is one. No. 594 sent 
 from Spain by Admiral Nelson to a cabinet-maker, named 
 Faivret, at Paris, to be repaired. In the 3 d room, a’serics of 
 minute statues of the Kings of France claim particular atten- 
 tion. The stands contain valuable old jewelry and <^lass 
 medallions, &c. In the 4th room the stranger ’ will see an 
 altar-screen of pure gold, a gift of Henry II., Emperor of 
 Germany, to the cathedral of Rasle. In a corner stands a 
 triptych, brought liither from the church of fiomarsund. The 
 faces of the figures it contains are painted, and appear through 
 apertures cut in thin gilt brass leaves, which cover the rest of the 
 surface. In the centre is a glass stand, containing ostensories 
 embossed dishes, and eight crowns of gold, richly ornamented 
 with sapphires and pearls, found at La Fuente de Guar- 
 mzar, near Toledo, the capital of the Gothic kings of Spain. 
 
 One bears the name of King Recesvinthus (a.d, 049 672 ). 
 
 Another bears a striking resemblance to the crown of Queen 
 
388 FIFTEENTH WALK.. 
 
 Theodelinda. preserved at Monza. The six others, , being 
 smaller, appear to have belonged to the king’s children. 
 The 5 th and last room, contains about 400 specimens of 
 old Rouen pottery of the last century. Returning to the 
 tirst room of this suite, we find, on the right hand, the 
 Chambre de la Reine Blanche, alluded to above, containing 
 valuable pictures and bas-reliefs, among which we may men- 
 tion No. 7 59, by Primaticcio, representing Love and Diane de 
 Poitiers as Venus, and No. 722, Mary Magdalen at Marseilles, 
 painted by king Rene of Provence. Nos, 2824 and 2825 are 
 two Italian spinets of the 16th century. Other old musical 
 instruments are contained in a glass stand. This room leads 
 to the chapel, an extraordinary monument. The ceil- 
 ing is supported in the middle by an octagonal pillar, and 
 is loaded with tracery. The chapel receives light from 
 two single pointed windows flanking a recess, in which 
 are three double windows with tracery. Here are sacred 
 utensils, crosses, &c., a remarkable reading-desk, a baptis- 
 mal fount of the 15th century, and an altar-piece represent- 
 in'^ Abraham and Melchisedek, the mass of St. Gregory, and 
 the Last Supper. From the chapel a winding staircase of 
 singular workmanship descends into an open vestibule, com- 
 municating with the garden and court leading to the 
 
 Palais des Thermes, once the residence of the Roman 
 governor of Gaul, as well as of the kings of the first and 
 second races. It was in this palace Julian had fixed his re- 
 sidence when he was proclaimed emperor by his troops in 
 360 . (1) It is mentioned by Ammianus Marcellinus, and by 
 Gregory of Tours. A deed of 1138 styles it by the name 
 it Ttill bears (2.) The only perfect part of this palace 
 remaining is a vast hall, with a vaulted ceiling. It was 
 formerly the jrigidarium, or chamber for cold baths. Its 
 
 (1) From a Roman altar discovererl here, it appeal’s that this 
 palace was built by Constantins, amt not by Julian as had been 
 erroneously supposed. The inscription on the allar was as fol- 
 lows : Hoc quod ereooit atrium virtus Constantii, D. Solis ornav. 
 alt. ft. virtus JuUnni Ctrsaris. 
 
 ( 2 ) It was bounded towards the east by a Roman road, now 
 the rue St. Jacques, which, at the river side, was guarded by a 
 strong lower. The garden of the palace extended on the west 
 as far”as the Abbey of St. Germain des Pr6s, which was built at 
 the south-west corner of the enclosure, and a straight line, run- 
 ning from the abbey to the river, determined the western boun- 
 dary of the garden, also terminated by a tower. Where the 
 Pantheon now stands, there was an amphitheatre. An aqueduct 
 from Rungis, two leagues beyond Arcueil (see p. 495), has been 
 traced under the Palais des Thermes. It runs from north to 
 south, and is 2 feet wide by 1 */» in depth. 
 
PALAIS DES THERMES. 389 
 
 dimensions are ; length 65 feet, breadth 45, and altitude 54. 
 In a large rectangular recess to the right on entering is the pis- 
 cina or cistern, 32 feet long hy 18 in breadth; its bottom 
 is about 4 feet lower than the present floor of the frigidarium. 
 In the wall opposite to the piscina are three niches with re- 
 mains of water-pipes, formerly communicating with a sub- 
 terranean conduit, partly discovered in 1857, for carrying off 
 the waste water to the river. The masonry of this hall is com- 
 posed of alternate rows of squared stones and bricks, covered in 
 some places with a coat of stucco four or five inches thick. The 
 thickness of the walls is surprising. From thishall a small room, 
 giving access to the cellars (which cannot be visited without 
 a guide, who receives a small fee), leads to the tepidarium, 
 or chamber for warm baths, now entirely divested of its vaulted 
 roof. Here the niches in which the bathing-tubs were placed, 
 are still visible; at the furthest end, next to a flight of steps 
 leading to the rue de la Harpe is the hypocausHim, a low 
 vaulted chambei- which contained the apparatus for warming 
 water. This interesting monument of antiquity had long 
 been used as a workshop, and, after passing through various 
 hands, was purchased by the municipality of Paris, and an 
 opening made to connect it with the Hotel de Cluny. The still 
 existing hall is now filled with the relics of Roman sculpture 
 dv’g up in Paris. It has been repaired, roofed over in the 
 Roman style, and surrounded Avilh gardens 5,000 square 
 metres in surface, fronting the Boulevards Saint Wichel and 
 Saint Germain fsee p. 393.) The northern garden contains 
 fragments of old sculpture ; such as the Evangelical emblems, 
 the bull, eagle, lion, and angel, which formerly stood on 
 St, Jacques de la Boucherie see p. 262); the portal of the old 
 convent of St. Benoist, which gives access to the garden from 
 the hotel, etc. Here is also the cross taken from the church 
 of St. Vladirnir, at Sebastopol, sent by Marshal Pelissier. 
 
 The Musee des Thermes et de I’Hdtel de Cluny, is open 
 daily, Mondays excepted, from 11 to k}i p.m.; on Sundays 
 . without, and on other days with tickets, for which apply to 
 I Monsieur le Directeur du Musee des Thermes. 
 
 I M. Delalain’s premises, opposite, occupy the site of a house 
 formerly inhabited by Marshal de Catinat. 
 
 Proceeding northward along the Boulevard, we find, oppo- 
 site the Pont St Michel (see p. 307), the beautiful 
 
 Fontaine St. Michel. — This splendid monument, inau- 
 gurated Aug. 15th, I860, wasdesigned by M. Davioud, archi- 
 lect. Under a niche, in the centre of a rich Corinthian facade, 
 we see a bronze group, by Duret, of the Archangel crushing 
 the Demon. From the rock forming the basement, a sheet of 
 
FIFTEENTH WALK. 
 
 390 
 
 Wcater gushes into five basins of different forms, the lowermost 
 being semicircular, and nearly on a level with the ground. 
 These basins are flanked by two dragons spouting water into the 
 semicircular basin. The four columns which adorn the monu 
 mentare of red Languedoc marble, their bases and capitals of 
 white marble, and the basins and body of the edifice of St. Yllie 
 stone (Dep. of the Jura). The richly sculptured entablature 
 is crowned with four bronze statues of Prudence, Force, Justice, 
 and Tempei-ance, by MM. Barre, Guillaume, Elias Robert and 
 Gumery. Under the segmental pediment, flanked by two 
 eagles executed in lead, is the following inscription : 
 
 FONTAINE SAINT-MICHEL. 
 
 Sous I.E REGNE DE NAPOLEON UI, EmPFRECU DES VRANCAIS, CE MONU- 
 MENT A ETE ELEVE PAR LA VILLE DE PARIS, L’AN MDGCCLA. 
 
 The attic is adorned with the^ monogram of St. Michael en- 
 circled with the collar of the order of that name. The whole 
 monument is 78 feet in height, and 45 in breadth ; the group 
 of the Archangel is leya feet, and the height of the columns 
 19. The four statues of the alticare 9 feet each. The supply 
 of water is 23 litres (5 gallons) per second (l). 
 
 In the rue Ilautefeuille, west of the Boulevard de Sebas- 
 topol, Nos. 5, 9, and 21 are remarkable for their old tur- 
 rets. At No. 30 was a convent of Prajmonstratensian monks. 
 
 In the rue de I’Ecole de Medecine, No. 5, is the Ecole Im- 
 periale Gratuite de Dessin, founded, in 17 67, byM. Bachelier. 
 The court is in the Ionic style, and over the arched gateway 
 are caryatides in bas-relief (see p. 99). At No. 15, is the 
 
 Musee Dupuytren. — This important pathological collection 
 is due to the public-spirited and celebrated surgeon whose name 
 it bears. Dupuytren left 200,000 fr. for the establishment of a 
 professorship of pathological anatomy. At the suggestion of 
 M. Orfda, dean of the faculty, the council of the university 
 then granted a sum towards founding a museum of morbid 
 anatomy. The refectory of the ancient convent of the Corde- 
 liers was purchased and arranged for the purpose. The front 
 is Gothic, with an engaged octagonal turret flanking the gable. 
 In the vestibule is a bust of Dupuytren, and in the centre of 
 the hall is a marble bust of Pare, by David. Admittance is 
 
 (i) At the corner of the rue cle ta llarpe, opposite the bridge, 
 there Avas formerly a fountain surmounted hy an ill-formed 
 head, and huilt in commemoration of the treachery of Pd- 
 rinet le Clerc, the son of one of the dchevins de Paris, who 
 opened the gate of St. Germain, afterwards Porte de Buci (whicli 
 stood at the western end of the nie St. Andrd des Arts), to the 
 forces of the Bourguignons in i4i8, in consequence of which the 
 Count of Armagnac was slain, and King Charles YI, unhappily 
 fell into the hands of the aggressors. 
 
I ECOLE DE JIEDECINE. 391 
 
 obtained, from 12 to 3, by a small fee to the porter. The 
 ' unprofessional visitor must expect to sec many disgusting ob- 
 jects. For further particulars see p. 1 34. 
 
 To the west in the same street is the 
 
 Fcole 1)E Meueciise, the seat of the FacuUij of Medicine, in 
 the Academy of Paris. — Medical schools were first established 
 in Paris in 14 69 ; and, in 1472-7, buildings for that purpose 
 were erected in the rue de la Bucherie. In icis, an amphi- 
 theatre for anatomical demonstrations was built ; but, in 177 0, 
 the faculty removed to an edifice in the rue St. Jean de Beau- 
 \ais, formerly occupied by the Faculty of Laiv. The first 
 stoue of the present building, designed by Gondouin, was 
 laid by Louis XV.,. in 17 09, on the site of the ancient Col- 
 lege de Bourgogne ; it was inaugurated in 177 0, and is a speci- 
 men of elegant architecture. The front towards the street is 
 198 feet in length ; the lateral xviugs are connected by a por- 
 tico formed of a double range of coupled Ionic columns, inter- 
 rupted by an arched entrance leading into a rectangular court, 
 
 ■ and surmounted by a bas-relief representing Louis XV., accom- 
 panied by Wisdom and Beneficence, granting privileges to the 
 School of Surgery, and the Genius of the Arts presenling to 
 the king a plan of the building. The court is 60 feet by 90, 
 and is adorned with a bronze statue of Bichat, inaugurated in 
 1858. At the bottom is a portico of six Corinthian columns, 
 surmounted by a pediment. The bas-relief of the tympanum 
 represents Theory and Practice joining hands on an altar. 
 The inner frieze of this portico bears medallions with 
 the portraits in bas-relief of Pitard " de la Peyronnie, 
 Pare, Marechal, and Petit. The semi-circular amphi- 
 theatre, to which this portico leads, will contain 1,400 
 students. It is lit by a skylight, and contains a painting, 
 by Matout, representing Ambroise Pare practising for the first 
 time the ligature of an artery after amputation. For a list 
 of the lectures delivered here, all of which are gratuitous, 
 see page 132 n. The external portico leads to the grand 
 staircase on the left. Beside it, is a plaster statue of Breschet 
 counting the pulsations of a youth, by David d’Angers. On 
 ascending the staircase, a door to the left leads to the Library, 
 a large room, with a circular skylight, containing 30,000 vo- 
 lumes, and open daily, Sundays and Thursdays excepted, to 
 students from It to 4, and to strangers by permission to 1 e 
 obtained at the Bureau. A door opposite to the staircase 
 leads to the Museum of Comparative Anatomy, highly interest- 
 ing to the professional visitor. The tirstis a rectangular saloon 
 with an arched ceiling, lit by skylights, and occupying the 
 whole length of the attic over the portico. A gallery running 
 
392 FIFTEENTH WALK. 
 
 round it is ascended by a winding staircase in the centre. The 
 middle of the room is occupied by two rectangular railings, 
 containing skeletons of the larger animals, such as lions, la- 
 mas, &CG. Beginning from the right below, is the anatomy 
 of the nervous system, in a great measure due to the practised 
 hand of M. Denonvilliers. A detailed exposition of the 5th pair 
 of nerves in the human head is truly astonishing for its exe- 
 cution. Next comes the muscular system ofmammifera, the 
 osteology of reptiles and birds ; a valuable series of phrenolo- 
 gical specimens, mostly consisting of the heads of criminals, 
 among which, that of Fieschi, in a case next to the clock, dis- 
 playing the fracture he received from his own infernal ma- 
 chine. The osteology of the liuman skull is ingeniously exposed 
 by a combination of springs lioldmg asunder the sutures, which 
 may be reconjoined at xvill. Dr. Dumoutier’s valuable phreno- 
 logical collection is now arranged here. Next is a scries of 
 angiological specimens, injected. The general classification is 
 according to the system of Mandl. In the gallery above is a 
 series of embryology, &c. The eye, the organs of taste and 
 smell, follow in succession. Here we find, in two gilt frames, 
 the dissection of the acoustic organ of the smaller mam- 
 malia, due to the patience of the donor, Mr. Hyrtl, of 
 Vienna. Next come the digestive organs, exemplified in 
 the.ehdomens of various animals. The specimens of the lym- 
 phatic system are injected xvith mercury. The circulation of 
 the blood is exposed in specimens of various animals, and 
 great attention has been paid to the study of the anatomy of 
 the human body by regions. Among the skeletons of insects, 
 that of the Scarabceus Melolontha, consisting of 77 pieces, is 
 remarkable. A marble statue of Cuvier stands at the end of 
 the room. The greatest praise is due to the late M. Orfila 
 for his exertions in forming and enriching this museum, which 
 is continued in the second room. In the third room, among 
 various specimens of natural history, will be seen, under a glass 
 bell, the model in wax of the dwarf Bebe, 20 inches high, 
 horn in the Vosges, and attached to the service of Stanislas, 
 King of Poland; he died in 17 04, aged nearly 25 yq^rs. Here 
 are also the organs of hearing, as magnified through a micro- 
 scope, and a collection of substances belonging to the ma- 
 teria medica, and mineralogy. In the fourth is a collection 
 of anatomical and surgical instruments, filling 6 presses, 
 among which, in one next to the window, is the case of 
 instruments used for the autopsy of Napoleon, and a cabinet 
 of instruments of natural philosophy. This museum is not 
 open to the public, but students are admitted daily, Sundays 
 and Thursdays excepted, between 1 1 and 4, on applying at the 
 
HOPITAL CLINIQUE. 393 
 
 Secretary’s office. Casual visitors are only admitted after 4 
 p. m. A fee is expected. The rest of thebuilding containsrooms 
 for demonstration, a council-chamber, &c. (see p. 131.) 
 The library and museum are closed from Aug. 15 to Nov. 15. 
 
 Opposite is the 
 
 llopiTAL Clinique de la Faculte de M^decine, a handsome 
 building, founded on the site of the cloister of the Cordeliers, and 
 containing about 120 beds. The hospital forms a square, with 
 a garden in the centre. The public is admitted on Thursdays 
 and Fridays, from 11 to 12 (seep. 14 1 ). 
 
 At No. 20, rue de I’Ecole de Medecine, in a back room, 
 Charlotte Corday stabbed Marat, while in a hath, on the 13th 
 July, 1793. Turrets will be observed at the corner of the 
 rue Larrey, and 22, rue de FEcole de Medecine. The latter 
 street leads into the rue de FAncienne Comedie, so called from 
 the Theatre Francais having been formerly located in it. The 
 theatre was about midway, opposite to the Ca/e/Yocope, which 
 was tlie resort of Voltaire and all the literary and dramatic 
 celebrities of that day. 
 
 At the corner of rue Mignon, the visitor will remark the 
 sculptured front of the ancient College Mignon, afterwards 
 Grand mont, founded in 1343 by Jean Mignon, Archdeacon 
 of Blois. It became national property in 1790, and was 
 occupied by the Archives of the Royal Treasury in 1820. It 
 is now a printing office. 
 
 The rue de I’Eperon and rue des Grands Augustins lead to the 
 
 Marche des Augustins, or a la Volaille, Quai des Au- 
 gustins. — This market for poultry, also called La Vallee, was 
 erected in 1810, upon the site of the church of the convent of 
 the Grands Augustins. The length is 190 feet, and the breadth 
 141. This market has now been transferred to the Halles 
 Centrales ,see p. 243). 
 
 SIZTEEITTH ITALZ. 
 
 This lies entirely within the 5th arrondissement. We 
 may commence it with the 
 
 Boulevard St. Germain, — another of the great thorough- 
 fares cut through some of the woi’st quarters of Paris. It 
 extends from the Quai de la Tournelle to the Boulevard de 
 Sebastopol ileft bank), and is being continued to the Fau- 
 bourg St. Germain. 
 
 The Quai de la Tournelle owes its name to a large square 
 tower, which was situated near the bridge of that name, and 
 defended the passage of the river by means of a chain drawn 
 
 
394 SIXTEENTH WALK. 
 
 across during the night, and fixed on the opposite btnk 
 of the He St. Louis to a similar tower. The Tourndle 
 
 was reconstructed by Henry II. in 1554. In 1032, St. 
 
 Vincent de Paule obtained permission from the Kine to 
 have the galley-slaves transported thither from the un- 
 healthy vaults of the Conciergerie. It was used as a prison 
 until 1790, when it was demolished. The Porte St. Bernard, 
 connected with the enclosure built by Philip Augustus, stood 
 in close contact with the Tournelle. It was reconstructed 
 in 1000, and demolished in 1787. 
 
 The visitor will here remark the vast demolitions occa- 
 sioned by the continuation of the rue des Ecoles, which has 
 absorbed the whole southern side of the rue St. \ictor. 
 
 Entering the Boulevard, we arrive at the rue du Cardinal 
 lemoine, so called from a college of that name, founded in 
 1300. Here stood also the Seminaire St. Firmin, once in- 
 habited by Calvin. It was suppressed in 1790, and served 
 as a prison during the reign of terror. A dreadful massacre 
 took place in it in the days of September, when ninety-one 
 priests were murdered. (1) 
 
 The barracks of fire-men, which we see at No. 24, rue de 
 Poissy, once formed part of the great convent of Bernardins, 
 built in 1244 by Stephen Lexington, Abbot of Clairvaux, to 
 enable his monks to study at the University of Paris. In 1320 
 the convent was ceded to the Cistertians, in consequence of 
 which Benedict XIL, himself of that order, added a church to 
 that convent (2), on the site of which now stands the 
 
 Hali.e aux Vealx, on the opposite side of the Boulevard. 
 Cows and calves are sold here on Tuesdays and Fridays ; the 
 stables are underground. On other days it is a great mart 
 for rags and old iron. 
 
 In the rue de Pontoise, opposite this, we find, at No. 19, 
 the Fourricre, or pound, of the Prefecture of Police, for ve- 
 hicles, horses, and dogs (3.) Further on is a primary school, 
 
 (1) The following is the copy of a document referring to the 
 above : — “ The treasurer of the commune is to pay to Gilbert 
 Petit 48 livres for the time employed by himself and three com- 
 rades in the despatch of the priests of St. Firmin during two 
 days. — 4lh September, year IV. of Liberty, and ist of Equality, 
 pursuant to the requisition made to us by the section of Sans- 
 culottes who set them to work. — Signed, Nicout, J^rdme Lamark, 
 commissioners.” At the back is the receipt, signed " G. Petit, 
 his Mark, X.” Most of the individuals employed did not know 
 how to write, 
 
 (2) It was declared national property in 1790 . 
 
 ( 3 ) Dogs are kept here for a week, and then killed, unless 
 claimed. 
 
ST. NICOLAS DU CFIARDONNET. 395 
 
 with a haut-relief, representing Paris taking childhood under 
 its protection, and at No. 30 is the Sdminair.c de St. Nicolas 
 du Chard onnet, an estahi'shment connected with - 
 
 St. Nicolas do Chardonnet — a church built on the site of 
 a chapel erected in 1930 by Guillaume d’ Auvergne ; its re- 
 construction was begun in 165G, and finished in 1709. 
 During the first revolution it was sold as national property ; 
 but the purchaser not having paid the price, it returned to the 
 government, and was afterwards restored to public worship. 
 This church has no principal front, and has a mean-looking 
 entrance, masked by houses, in the rue St. Victor ; the west- 
 ern front consists of two stories, the lower Ionic, bearing a 
 triangular pediment, the upper Composite. The interior 
 is cruciform, with single aisles and a semicircular choir; 
 its pilasters are Corinthian, remarkable for the anomalous 
 absence of caulicles. The vaulting is semicircular, and 
 the windows have circular arches. There is an unusual 
 number of good paintings to be found in this church ; 
 they are as follows: 1st chapel, to the right on enter- 
 
 ing, the Baptism of Christ, by Corot, and Christ healing 
 the Blind. 2d, Dream of St. Joseph, and the Annunciation. 
 3d, St. Nicholas receiving extreme unction, and the Mar- 
 tyrdom of St. Theda. 4th, a Descent from the Cross, and a 
 Besurrection, both by Lebours. In the following transept is 
 the Communion chapel ; the altar piece is Christ with the two 
 Disciples at Emmaus, by Saurin ; and on either side, St. Paul 
 preaehing, and St. Justin refusing to sacrifice to the Gods, both 
 by Noel Coypel. Here is also a good old Ecee Homo. 5th, 
 Paul before Festus,and St. Charles Borromeo administering the 
 Eucharist to the plague-stricken al Milan, by Lebrun. 6th, 
 a fine portrait of St. Francis de Sales in a medallion sur- 
 mounting a handsome marble tomb, by Anguier and Girardon, 
 in memory of Jerome Bignon ; it bears the bust of the 
 latter, and is flanked by statues of Justice and Truth. On the 
 basement is St. Jerome striking his breast with a stone. 7th, 
 the Marriage of the Virgin. 8th, the Apotheosis of St. The- 
 resa. 9th, the Apotheosis of Ste. Genevieve, by Maison. loth, 
 f provisionally closed). 11th, St. Louis Gonzaga saying mass, 
 by Rocliat; the Martyrdom of St. Clair. 12th, St. Charles 
 Borromeo praying. The ceiling is by Lebrun, and facing 
 the aisle is the monument to that artist, and another to 
 his mother. The former consists of a pyramid surmounted 
 by his bust, by Coysevox; at the base are two statues, Re- 
 ligion and the Fine Arts deploring his death. The latter, exe- 
 cuted by Tubi and Cottignon, after designs of Lebrun, re- 
 presents the deceased issuing from her tomb at the sound of 
 
396 SIXTEENTH WALK. 
 
 the last trumpet; the angel is particularly admired. 13th, 
 The adoration of the Virgin and c hild, by Bouterweck. I4th* 
 St. Bernard performing mass, by Lesueur. 1 5th, the palsieci 
 man healed, by Sacquespee (167 5). 1 6th, Western transept ; 
 
 Christ raising the daughter of Jairus, hy Vignaud. 17th, the 
 Good Samaritan. 18th, the Deliverance from Purgatory and 
 a Mater Dolorosa. 19th, St. Catherine of the wheel, by Mar- 
 quel ; and the Baptism of Christ. Facing the right aisle" is the 
 Agony of Christ, hy Destouches; and facing the left aisle, the 
 Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, by Dupuy. The organ is hand- 
 some, adorned with statues and caryatides, and tlie choir is 
 richly decorated with marble. The remains of the poet San- 
 teuil were removed to this church in 1818. (1) 
 
 Crossing the Boulevard by the rue des Bernardins, we shall 
 find on the Quay, to our right, at No. 55, the 
 
 H6tel de Nesmond, a building of the time of Henry IV., and 
 close to it, at 47, the Pharmacie Centrale, formerly the Cou- 
 vent des Miramiones, where the drugs and chemical pre- 
 parations for the hospitals of Paris are kept and distributed,. 
 Here are also large ponds for experiments on the breeding of 
 leeches. Returning to the Boulevard, we find to our left the 
 
 Marche des Car.mes, or de la Place Maubjrt, built in 
 1818, upon the site of the convent des Carmes. 
 
 The Place Mauhert, opposite this market, was one of the 
 great strongholds of the insurgents of June. 
 
 The adjoining rue des Carmes contained several old col- 
 leges, viz., those of St. Jean de Beauvais, de Presle (2), 
 des Lombards, and de Lizievx. Here we see the Gothic 
 chapel of the College de Dormans-Beauvais, the fii>t stone 
 of which was laid by Charles V. ; it has now been repaired, 
 and forms part of a new Dominican convent. 
 
 Entering the rue Galande, we find to our right the rue de 
 FHotel Colbert. No. 20 is erroneously believed to have be- 
 longed to that statesman. The court contains some bas-reliefs 
 of the time and style of Jean Goujon. 
 
 At No. 13, in the adjoining rue de la Bucherie, is a small 
 building with a dome, formerly the School of Medicine. 
 
 The rue du Fouarre was once the most important street of 
 this quarter, known by the name of the “ Quartier Latin.” 
 It contained several schools, where public disputations were 
 held, and is supposed to have derived its name from straw 
 
 (1) III! died at Dijon, in 1697, from having drunk a glass of 
 wine into which the Due de Bourbon, had, by way of a joke, 
 emptied the contenis of his snulf-box. 
 
 ( 2 ) Peter Ramus was assassinated there during the St. Bar- 
 th 6l6mi. 
 
ST. SEVERliV. 397 
 
 spread on the gi'ound for the scholars to seat themselves on; 
 The works of Dante, Petrarch, and Rabelais contain frequent 
 allusions to this street. In 1368 the statutes of the College 
 de Justice ordained that any scholar of 6 years’ standing, who 
 should have proved unable to sustain an argumentation in this 
 street, should be excluded from the college. In the same year 
 gates were placed at the extremities of this street. 
 
 The rue St Scverin leads to the church of 
 
 St. Severin. — From an early period there existed here an 
 oratory and cells, where St. Severin, Bishop of Agaune, who 
 died in .530, conferred the monastic habit upon St. Cloud. In 
 the ninth century the Normans destroyed the monastery. 
 The present edifice dates from 1210. Its style is pointed , and 
 its pinnacled front, adorned with various tracery, deserves 
 attention. The tympanum of the porch bears a modern bas- 
 relief by Ramus, representing the Virgin and Saviour between 
 two angels in the act of adoration. Over the second entrance, 
 facing the rue St. Severin there is a fine bas-relief by Maillet, 
 representing St. Martin sharing his cloak with a mendicant. 
 The interior consists of a nave and choir, with double aisles. 
 A singular column with spiral cablings at the crown of the apsis 
 is worthy of notice. The mouldings, of the date 1347 , as well 
 as the key-stones of the vaults, and the capitals are quaintly 
 enriched. Some fine stained glass remains in the choir, and 
 in the sacristy. The works of art in this church are as follows, 
 beginning from the aisle to the right; — 1st chapel, for bap- 
 tisms, St. John the Baptist preaching, and the Saviour baptised, 
 frescoes, by Flandrin, jun. , 2d; Scenes from the life of the 
 Virgin, by Signol ; 3d, the Marriage of the Virgin and the 
 Flight into Egypt, by the same ; 4th, in the ogives, the Calling 
 of Andrew and Peter, and the Martyrdom of St. Andrew ; be- 
 low, Peter preaching, and the Imprisonment of the Apostles at 
 Jerusalem. Fronting the arch, St. John the Baptist preach- 
 ing, all frescoes, by Schnetz. 5th, Sts. Peter and Paul in the 
 Mamertine prison ; the Conversion of Paul ; Peter denying 
 Christ ; Peter receiving the keys of paradise ; all frescoes by 
 Biennourry ; oth, in the ogives, .Tesus and Mary Magdalene 
 (St. John .XX. 17), and the Penitent Magdalene. Below, Jesus 
 at Cana, and Jesus rebuking Martha, frescoes by Murat. 7th, 
 in the ogives, the Calling of James and John, St. John writing 
 the Apocalypse under the inspiration of Heaven ; below, his 
 Martyrdom in a cauldron of boiling oil, according to a re- 
 ceived legend; the Last Supper, all frescoes by Flandrin. 8th, 
 Ste. Genevieve distributing food to the Parisians ; the same 
 saint taking the veil, and St. Germain visiting the wounded 
 on the field of battle, by Hesse. 9th and lOth, a double'' 
 
398 SIXTEENTH WALK.. 
 
 chapel : St. Severin visiting Clodovech on his sick-bed ; St. 
 Severin receiving St. Cloud in his retreat, and giving him the 
 monastic habit ; both frescoes by Cornu, lith, the Lady Cha- 
 pel ; it contains a beautiful marble statue of the Virgin and 
 Child, by Bridan, and a painting of the same, by Belief 12 th. 
 The Sermon on the Mount ; below, the Virgin and Child, by 
 Von Iloltorp. 14th, to the left, Belzunce, Bishop of Mar- 
 seilles, making a vow for the cessation of the pestilence 
 which raged in that city in 17 20 ; and, to the right, St. Je- 
 rome taking the Sacrament, both frescoes by Gerome. I5th, 
 St. Louis carrying the Crown of Thorns in procession, and 
 his Death, by Leloir. loth, the Life and Death of St. Charles 
 Borromeo,in four compartments, by Jobbe-Duval. 18th, Life 
 of St. Francis of Assisi, 4 frescoes, by Stenhcil. The other 
 chapels are provisionally closed. 
 
 Proceeding up the rue St. Jacques, we arrive at the 
 
 College Imperial de France, founded in 1529, by Fran- 
 cis I., at the solicitation of Parvi, his preacher, and the cele- 
 brated Budajus, Professorships have since been founded in it by 
 most of the subsequent sovereigns, and, previous to the middle of 
 the ICth century, 400 or 500 students regularly attended the 
 lectures of this college. The wars and contagious disorders 
 that afflicted Paris at the close of that century drove away the 
 scholars and professors; but Henry IV. formed the project of 
 erecting a new college, and had those of Treguier, Leon, and 
 Cambrai, pulled down to make room for it. This intention, 
 frustrated by his death, was partially carried into execution by 
 Louis XIII. ; it was again suspended till 1774, when the college 
 was entirely rebuilt by Chalgrin. The buildings, of simple 
 but elegant design, enclose three courts, the principal of 
 which, facing -the rue des ficoles, is entered by a rusticated 
 arch surmounted by a sculptured pediment and flanked with 
 railings. (1) The left wing contains laboratories for chemistry, 
 and lecture-rooms. The right wing gives access through a ves- 
 tibule decorated with busts of Bemusat, Vauquelin, Ampm-e, 
 Sacy, Daunou, Portal, Andrieux, and Jouffroy, to the second 
 court, separated from the third by a portico of coupled Doric 
 columns. The latter court opens by a railing into the rue St. 
 .Jacques, over the entrance of which are two busts, representing 
 Science and Literature, their different branches being inscribed 
 in wreaths below. There are eight lecture-rooms ; that for 
 physics has two oil-paintings, the first, by Lethiers, re- 
 
 ( 1 ) The insurgents of June, 1848 , had erected formidable bar- 
 ricades on the Place Cambrai. M. Bixio, tlie representative, was 
 here shot through the body while attempting to scale one of 
 them at the head of a company of the line. 
 
COLLEGE DE FRANCE. 399 
 
 presents Francis I. signing the order for the establish- 
 ment of the college; the other, by Thevenin, represents 
 Henry IV. endowing the professorships. In the oriental lec- 
 ture-room is a valuable painting, by Camus, of the Death of 
 .lacques Delille. In the upper stories are cabinets of minera- 
 logy and natural philosophy, and a library. A prospectus of 
 the numerous lectures delivered here may be had at the col- 
 lege (see p. 95). The visitor should ask to see the aqua- 
 riums established by M. Goste for his experiments in pisci- 
 culture. They are situated in a wooden building in the garden, 
 and consist of large stone reservoirs divided into compart- 
 ments, where the young fish are confined according to their 
 ages. For hatching the spawn, there is a series of small 
 troughs, notmorethan 12 inches long, by 4 in breadth, soar- 
 ranged that the water of the first descends into the second, and 
 so on, running continuously over the spawn, which is laid on 
 grates made of glass tubes fitting into the troughs. The 
 spawn, being fecundated in October or November, is hatched 
 in February. The young fish remain about six weeks with- 
 out taking solid food, after which they are fed with meat, 
 liver, heart, etc. Trout and salmon are the only fish reared 
 here. Hybrids of these two kinds have been successfully ob- 
 tained. (1) A few faggots with oysters attached to them 
 will give an idea of the method adopted by M. Coste along the 
 coasts of France for establishing new oyster beds. 
 
 Nearly opposite the College de France, a little to the east, 
 stood La Tour Bichat, or de St. Jean de Latran, which, with 
 the adjoining ground, called Cour de la Vac/ierie, belonged 
 to the Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem, afterwards 
 Knights of Malta, first established in Paris in 1171. This 
 place enjoyed the privilege of sanctuary. (2) 
 
 Behind the College de France stood the 
 
 College Duplessis — founded by Geoffroy Duplessis, se- 
 cretary of Philippe le Long, in 1322, under the pontificate 
 of John XXII. Cardinal Richelieu took this college under his 
 special protection, on account of the name it bore, and re- 
 built it. In 1808, it was occupied by the Fcole Normale 
 
 (1) The fecundated spawn of salmon and trout has been sent 
 from this establishment as far as AVarsaw and Naples to be 
 hatched there. The fish in the lakes of the Bois de Boulogne 
 and in the ponds of St. Cloud, A’illencuve I’Etang, etc. were 
 all hatched in Paris at the College de France, wliich is in 
 constant correspondence with the great piscicultural establish- 
 ment at Huningen. 
 
 (2) The demolitions brought a large number of parchments 
 to light, most of them of the 13 th and t ilh centuries. These 
 were carefully collected and deposited at the Hotel de Ville, 
 
400 SIXTEENTH WALK. 
 
 (see p. 4^?3), and in 1848 by the Ecole d’ Administration, 
 which was soon after suppressed. The building has recently 
 been demolished in order to make room for the erection of an 
 elegant edifice which will gradually replace the dingy-looking 
 
 Lvcee Louis le Grand. — The largest and most important 
 Imperial lyccum of Paris. It was formerly the College de 
 Clermont, founded in 15G0. by Guillaume Duprat, bishop of 
 Clermont. The first stone of the chapel was laid by Henry III., 
 in 1582. The Jesuits bought it in 1563, but being expelled 
 fromFrance in 1594, were obliged to abandon it, and though 
 recalled in 1604, were not allowed to reopen it till 1618, 
 when they rebuilt it, after the designs of Augustin Guillain, 
 and named it after Louis XIV. The Jesuits being driven a 
 second time from France in 17 63, the members of the College 
 de Lisieux removed into this building. In 1792 this college, 
 organised under a new form, received the name of College de 
 I’Egalite; in 1800, that of Prytanee Fran^ais ; in 1804, that 
 of Lycee Imperial; in 1814, it resumed its former name of 
 College Louis le Grand. In 184.8 it was called Lycee Des- 
 cartes. It contains a large library (see p. 97). 
 
 The stranger may now turn into the rue Soufflot, when he 
 will see before him the stately pile of 
 I The Pantheon, which, by a decree of Dec. 6th, 1851, has 
 ^ resumed its former name of church of Ste. Genevieve. (1) 
 Clovis, at the solicitation of his queen and Ste. Genevieve, 
 built a church to the apostles Peter and Paul near his palace. 
 To the church a religious community was afterwards attached, 
 and the house became a celebrated abbey. Ste. Genevieve was 
 buried, in 512, in this church, which was thenceforward dedi- 
 cated to her, and she became the patron saint of Paris. The 
 church having fallen into ruins, Louis XV. was induced by 
 Mme. de Pompadour to erect one near it upon a magnifi- 
 cent scale, after the designs of Soufflot, and, on the 6th of 
 Sept., 1764_, laid the first stone. The cost of the building 
 was defey^ by a lottery. At the corners, in front of the 
 railing which surrounds the whole edifice, are two magnificent 
 candelabra of cast iron. The portico, to which a flight O'f 1 1 
 , steps, occupying the whole breadth of the front, gives access,. 
 1 presents a front of 6 fl uted Cor inlblan columns, 60 feet in 
 height by 6 in diameter, whTcKTtogether wTllri 6 internal o>nes, 
 support a triangular pediment, 129 feet in breadth, by 2 2 in 
 height. The pediment contains a large composition in relief, 
 by David, representing France, surrounded by, and dispensing 
 honours to, some of the great men that have illustrated her. 
 
 (1) The chapter of this church consists of a dean and six cl iap- 
 lains. 
 
 0 ' 
 
THE PANTHEON. 401 
 
 On her right hand are Fenelon, Maleslierhes, Miraheau, Vol- 
 taire, Rousseau, Lafayette, Carnot, Monge, Manuel, and David, 
 the painter. On her left are figures representing soldiers of 
 the republican or imperial armies, with Napoleon in front. 
 At the feet of France are seated History and Liberty, inscribing 
 the names of great men, and weaving crowns to reward them. 
 In the extreme corners of the pediment are figures of youths 
 studying to emulate the virtues of their predecessors. The 
 figure of France is 1 5 feet in height. On the frieze beneath it 
 is the inscription, in gold letters — 
 
 AUX GRANDS HOMMES LA PATRIE RECONNAISSANTE. 
 
 Under the peristyle there are bas-reliefs, representing Genius, 
 Science, Art, Legislation, and Patriotism : also two marble 
 groups, one representing St. Remi baptizing Clovis, the 
 other Ste. Genevieve disarming the anger of Attila, by 
 Maindron. Tlie plan of the edifice approximates to a Greek 
 cross, 302 feet in length by 255 transverse ; each limb of 
 the cross terminates m a pediment. The two lateral fronts 
 have also secondary entrances with bronze gates approached 
 by steps. A low Corinthian gallery, behind the church, 
 harmonizes badly with the unquestionable grandeur of the 
 general de.sign. From the centre of the cross springs a lofty 
 circular drum, surrounded by a peristyle of 32 Corinthian 
 columns resting on a stylobate. Above rises a majestic dome, 
 terminating in a lantern, surrounded by a gallery and balus- 
 trade. The height from the pavement to the top of the dome, 
 is 208 feet, and the number of steps up to the gallery is 47 5.' 
 The number of columns in the interior is 130; in and about 
 the entire edifice, 258. The breadth of each limb is 105 feet. 
 The construction of three independent stone cupolas one within 
 the other, is a curious feature of this edifice. A Corinthian 
 colonnade, supporting a gallery, runs all along tlie walls of 
 the interior. The vaulted ceilings are richly sculptured, and 
 are 8o feet from the pavement. The dome, 66 feet in diameter 
 at the gallery, rests upon solid piles of masonry. On these 
 piers are bronze tablets, now concealed behind the new wains- 
 coting, engraved with the names of those who fell in the 
 revolution of 1830, in gold letters. The painting of the 
 dome is by Gros, who received 100,000 francs for its execu- 
 tion, and was created aharon by Charles X. It is a fine compo- 
 sition, extending over a superficies of 3,7 21 square feet. (1) 
 
 During therevolutionof 17 89 the walls wereornamented with 
 bas-reliefs relating to philosophical subjects; in 182 6, these 
 
 (l) Upon the lower part are four groups, connected by figures 
 of angels andotlier emblems, each of which represents amonarch 
 
 2G 
 
402 SIXTEENTH WALK, 
 
 were replaced by attributes of Catholic worship. Eight 
 of the frescoes of Michael Angelo and Raphael in the Vatican at 
 Rome, by M. Baize, adorn the nave and transepts. The 
 pavement of the church is stone and marl)lc ; under the dome 
 it is entirely of marble, v.dth a fine circular mosaic, the exact 
 Span (33 feet) of the upper dome. Ther e are three alta rs in the 
 choir ancl tran septs , all richly gilt and sculptui-ed, with cano- 
 ^le^upportedT^ Corinthian columns ; tlie left altar has a 
 marble statue of the Virgin, by Demesmay ; oaken stalls for 
 the officiating clergy are placed on either side of the choir. 
 In the niche behind the high altar are painted the Saviour, 
 and Sts. Peter, Paul, Germain, and Genevieve. At each corner 
 of the transept, are gilt wreaths with the initials N. Underneath 
 the church there is an immense series of vaults ; some of the 
 stones of which are 50 feet in length, the whole undercroft 
 being constructed without any cement whatever. In the 
 vaults under the western nave, monuments and funeral urns 
 are arranged like the Roman tombs at Pompeii. In the centre 
 are two concentric circular passages, where a loud echo 
 repeats the smallest sound. Within these vaults are ce- 
 notaphs to the memory of Voltaire an d Rousseau, (1) witli a 
 fine marble statue of the former liy flcuiddnrSmong the nota- 
 bilities buried here are the illustrious mathematician, Lagra nge ; 
 Bougainville, the circumnavigator; the Dutch admirm^ De" 
 
 of France, who, by the lustre of his reign or the influence of his 
 age, formed an epoch in the history of the country. Clovis, 
 Charlemagne, St. Louis, and Louis XVllL, are the monarchs so 
 designated ; they render homage to Ste. Genevieve, who descends 
 towards them on clouds. In the heavenly regions are seen Louis 
 XVL, Marie Antoinette, Louis XVIL, and Madame Elizabeth. A 
 glory at the loftiest point indicates the presence of the Deity. 
 The pendentives are covered with paintings hy G6i’ard, repre- 
 senting Glory embi’acing Napoleon, Fi’ance, Justice, andDealh. 
 
 (i) On the tomb of Voltaire are the following inscriptions: 
 “ Au.x manes de Voltaire. L’Assemhlde Nalionale a d(?crete,le 3o 
 juin, 1791, qual avail mcrite les honneurs dus aux grands hoinmes.” 
 “ Poete, historien, philosophe, il agrandit I’esprit humain ; il 
 lui apprit qu’il devait etre lihre.” — “ 11 defendit Calas, Sirven, 
 de la Barre, et Monthailly.” — “11 comhattit les athecs ct les fa- 
 natiques, inspira la tolerance, et reclama les droits de ITioinme 
 centre la servitude de la feodalite.” On the tomh of Rousseau is 
 the following : “ lei repose ITioinme de la nalure ct de la vdrite.” 
 On the opposile side a hand, holding a torch, is represente I issuing 
 from the tomh, meaning that Rousseau casts light around him 
 even after death. The remains of these celebrated writers were 
 secretly removed from the Pantheon duringthe Restoration ; their 
 tombs arc shown at. present, hut the clergy have caused them to 
 he separated from the others hy partitions. 
 
^COLE DE DROIT. 403 . 
 
 Winter; Soufflot, the architect of the church; Marshal Lannes, 
 Duke de Montebello, &c. Mirahea u was interred^here. with 
 great pomp, in 1791. The c3eEraledraponie6ses oF’^^dltai 
 and Rousseau took place the same year. Marat was buried 
 here; but his remains, as well as those of"*MlFaheau, were 
 afterwards depantheonized by order of the National Conven- 
 tion. (1) In one of the recesses is a model of the building 
 in plaster, in the proportion of 1 to 24, with sections, which 
 will give the visitor a clear idea of the general construction. 
 
 This building has cost 3 0 m illions of francs since its 
 
 foundation. The visitor is stroii^ recommen'cTed not only 
 to visit the vaults, but also to ascend the dome; which, being 
 the most elevated building in the capital, affords a magnificent 
 view. Strangers are readily admitted, but a small gratuity is 
 expected. (2) Facing this noble monument is the 
 
 Ecole de Droit, erected by Soufflot in 177 1 . The entrance 
 is ornamented witli four Ionic columns, crowned by a pedi- 
 ment, and the interior of the building possesses some commo- 
 dious lecture-rooms. The first establishment of regular schools 
 of law in France dates from 1384, and the re-organization of 
 the Faculty of Paris took place in 17 62, by order of Louis XV. 
 For a list of the lectures delivered here, see page 94; the 
 hours, &c., may be learnt at the establishment. Here is also a 
 public library of 8,000 volumes, open daily from 10 to 3. 
 
 The Maine and Justice de Paix of the 5th arrondissement op- 
 posite,is constructed after the same design, and forms, with the 
 Ecolede Droit, a circular arc in front of the Pantheon. In one of 
 its rooms is abust of M. Simonin, clockmaker, who bequeathed 
 315,000 francs to found 33 beds at the Ilopital des Incurables, 
 and in the^ great hall there is another of the late Madame 
 Rendu, or Soeur Rosalie, distinguished for her charity. 
 
 The northern side of the Place is occupied by two new build- 
 ings. The first and western one is the handsome front of the 
 College Ste. Barbe, (see p. 97,) which stretches to the rue de 
 Reims behind, of which it occupies a whole side. This college, 
 founded in 1730, by Jean Hubert, was on the point of being 
 dissolved in 1798 for want of funds, when some of its former 
 pupils joined in partnership to support it. Their efforts suc- 
 ceeded ; and having annexed to it the buildings of the College 
 
 (1) The body of Marat, after being laken from the Pantheon, 
 was thrown info a common sewer in Ihe rue Montmartre, close 
 to where llie Passage du Saumon now stands. 
 
 (2) The Place Camhrai, the Place du Pantheon, the rue Soufflot, 
 and the rue St. .Jacques were the most formidable strongholds of 
 the insurgents of June 1848 on this side of the river. The Pan- 
 theon was filled with insurgents, and w'as their head-quarters 
 here. 
 
404 SIXTEENTH WALK. 
 
 des Chollets, founded m 12 83, and part of the ecclesiastical 
 College de Montaigu, founded in 1314, the new buildings 
 were commenced in 1841. The edifice east of it is the 
 Bihliotiieque Ste. Genevieve, presenting a front of 19 
 arched windows, erected on the site of the remaining buildings 
 of the College de Montaigu. — When Cardinal de la Rochefoucauld 
 established in the Abbey of Ste. Geneviwe, 1024, the regular 
 canons of St. Vincent de Senlis, the community had no library. 
 Shortly after the Fathers Fronteau and Lallemant formed a col- 
 lection of about 10,000 volumes, which was afterwards aug- 
 mented by Father Dumoulinet, who purchased several collec- 
 tions, including that of the learned Fierese. In 1710, Letellier, 
 archbishop of Reims, bequeathed his valuable collection to the 
 abbey. The walls of the new edifice, opened in February, 1851, 
 are e.v ter nail y covered with the names of celebrated writers of 
 all nations and periods. The monogram SG. is engraved on 
 discs along the walls, and inside the building. The entrance 
 is by a vestibule, the ceiling of which rests upon iron arches 
 supported by Doric pilasters, and adorned with busts ofSt. Ber- 
 nard, Montaigne, Pascal, Moliere, La Fontaine, Bossuet, Massil- 
 lon, Voltaire, Buffon, Laplace, Cuvier, Mirabeau, J. J. Rousseau, 
 Montesquieu, Fenelon, Racine, Corneille, Poussin, Descartes, 
 and LTIopital. Tlie ground-floor to the left of the vesti- 
 bule is divided into 7 long galleries fitted up with book- 
 cases; that on the opposite side contains, besides two ante- 
 chambers, four large rooms, one of which, fitted up with 
 transverse bookcases, contains, besides some printed works, 
 upwards of c,500 MSS. In the first ante-room we see the 
 model of a vessel sent to India under Admiral Letellier in 
 17 67 ; a bust of Cardinal de la Rochefoucault, the founder of 
 the library, and a map of the moon, two metres in diameter, 
 designed by Lahire in 1686, with his own hand. In the 
 following room there is a series of portraits in pastel of the 
 Kings of France, a bronze bust of the father of Philippe Ega- 
 lito, and a large table in Florentine mosaic. After the reading- 
 room of the manuscript department, we enter a parallel suite, 
 in which we see a model of the city of Rome, beautifully e.ve- 
 cuttd, and of very large dimensions ; a collection of Indian 
 arms brought over by the vessel above mentioned ; then the 
 mask of Henry IV., taken in plaster in 1790, when the royal 
 tombs at St. Denis were broken open by the mob. Only 
 four of these casts were taken, as the bodyafterwards became 
 undistinguishable ; but the visitor will remark that death had 
 produced but little change in the general features of that good 
 monarch. Ne.xt follows, in a glass case, the skull of Car- 
 touche. The other objects of interest in this room are a ge- 
 
ST. ETIENNE DU MONT. 405 
 
 nealogical tree illustrating the descent of Jesus from David, 
 and a planetary clock, which belonged to the Cardinal de 
 Lorraine. Tlic following anteroom contains a stuffed croco- 
 dile, and a few snakes and tortoises, brought over by Admiral 
 Letellier’s vessel. Returning to the grand vestibule, we as- 
 cend the double-branched staircase, furnished with stuffed 
 seats for the convenience of students who may wish to ex- 
 change a few words with a friend. Opposite the landing- 
 place we see a copy, by Baize, of the School of Athens, the 
 original of which, painted by Raphael, exists in the Vatican 
 at Rome. Flanking it are two medallions in fresco repre- 
 senting Poetry and Theology, and opposite these, two others, 
 with Philosophy and Justice, all by Baize. The ceiling of the 
 staircase is painted in ultra-marine and interspersed with stars. 
 The public reading-hall for printed works is entered 
 here by two side doors, between which, facing the chief 
 librarian’s desk, we perceive a beautiful specimen of 
 Gobelins tapestry, representing “Study surprised by Night,” 
 executed after a painting by Raize, slightly re-touched by 
 M. Ingres. It is an allusion to the evening sittings, an 
 advantage almost exclusively belonging to this library. The 
 visitor will be struck with admiration at the happy effect of 
 the application of iron to architectural purposes in this vast 
 saloon, which occupies the whole extent of the edifice. It is 
 bisected lengthwise by a line of stone pedestals sustaining a 
 series of graceful iron columns, on the slender forms of which 
 rest light perforated arches of the same metal, supporting the 
 double-arched roof of the edifice. Bookcases are fitted up be- 
 tween the pedestals, and others lino the walls all round up 
 to the window sills. Winding staircases in the corners com- 
 municate with the rooms below. The hall is 300 feet long by 
 GO in breadth ; its height to the roof is 30 feet. Four long 
 tables for students occupy nearly the whole length of the two 
 aisles; and in the evening, when lighted up with gas, the 
 appearance is strikingly beautiful. At that time there gene- 
 rally is such a number of students, that many are obliged to 
 vyait in the vestibule until a chair is left vacant, a numbered 
 ticket being given them in the order of their arrival. Ladies 
 are not admitted in the evening. This library possesses 
 210,000 printed volumes, and the catalogue fills 32 folios. 
 The reading-rooms are open daily from lo to 3, and from 6 
 to loin the evening, except on Sundays and holidays. The 
 building has cost 1,77 5,000 fr. 
 
 Immediately behind the Pantheon is the church of 
 
 St. Rtienne du Mont — originally a chapel for the vassals 
 of the abbey of Ste. Genevieve. The abbot was so jealous of 
 
SIXTEENTH WALK. 
 
 406 
 
 the interference of the Bishop of Paris, that the entrance to 
 this church still continued to be through that of Ste. Gene- 
 vieve, and remained so till the 17 th century. The date of 
 the building is said to be 1121. It was enlarged in 1222, 
 and the curious square tower and circular turret are pro- 
 bably of that date; these have been repaired by M. Godde. 
 The church was much enlarged in 1491, and the choir increased 
 in length in 1 5 1 7 . In 1 537 , both choir and nave were nearly 
 rebuilt, and, in 1 GO 5, some adjoining c/rarmers, iiow used 
 for the catechumens’ rooms, were added. The first stone of 
 the portal was laid in lolo by Queen Marguerite de Valois, 
 and a tablet over the church-door remained till the revolution 
 of 17 89, bearing an inscription to that effect. In 1024 the 
 upper story of the tower was built; the church was finally de- 
 dicated, and a new high altar raised, in 1C2G. The oldest 
 portions of the existing edifice are the lower stories of the tower 
 and the northern aisle of the choir, which are not later than 
 1491. The other parts are nearly all of the date 1537, 
 except the western front, which is a most singular mixture of 
 the Italian and Gothic. Four engaged composite columns, 
 having their flutes intersected by carved bossages, support a 
 rich triangular pediment adorned with modillions. The second 
 story bears a circular interrupted pediment; and, lastly, the 
 attic is gabled, and graced with a round window, and an el- 
 liptical one above it, with tracery. The steeple tower is square, 
 and flanked at one of its angles by a lofty slender circular tur- 
 ret. Tlie lateral and posterior parts of the cburch present a 
 curious medley of flying buttresses, gurgoyles, turrets, and 
 spires, some of them of no mean workmanship. The 
 ciuirch is cruciform. The eastern end is octagonal, and an 
 aisle, with chapels in each arcade, goes round the whole. The 
 principal architectural peculiarity of the interior is the great 
 height of the aisle, which is on a level with the imposts sup- 
 porting the vaulting-ribs of the nave and choir. Lofty at- 
 tached columns with Doric capitals front the piers of the nave 
 and choir, and in the tympans of the lateral arches, over the 
 circular ones springing from the central columns, there are 
 small clerestory windows. Those of the aisles are lofty, some 
 being filled with good stained glass, said to be by Pinaigrier. 
 The tracery of the windows of the left aisle of the choir is 
 peculiarly good. From the middle of each column, all round 
 the church, excepting at the transepts, segmental arches are 
 thrown from one to the other, supporting a very narrow gal- 
 lery and balustrade, which encircles the columns on the side 
 of the aisles. The arches of the choir are pointed. The choir 
 is separated from the nave by a magnificent and elaborate 
 
ST. ETIENNE DU MONT. 407 
 
 screen, consisting of a low elliptical arch, formerly divided hy 
 mullions and tracery; two spiral staircases, of exquisite beauty 
 and lightness, wind round the pillars at the entrance^ and two 
 linely-wrought door-ways, crowned with figures, separate the 
 aisles. The parapets of the staircases are particularly remark • 
 able for their rich perforated tracery. The vaulting of the 
 cross is ornamented with a pendant key-stone 1 2 feet deep, 
 most elaborately sculptured. The works of art in this church 
 are as follows ; — 1st cha[»elto the right on entering: Flanking 
 the altar, a Holy Family, and a Flight into Egypt, both in 
 bas-relief ; a marble statue of St. John the Baptist, and two 
 frescoes ; the Baptism of Christ, and St. John the Baptist 
 preaching. 2d, Christ disputing in the Temple; the Pesti- 
 lence of Paris, after Boullanger. 3rd, the Martyrdom of St. 
 John ; here marble slabs display a list of the celebrated per- 
 sonages buried in the parish, such as Lemaistre de Sacy, 
 Racine, &c. 4th, a curious composition in stained glass in 
 the window (t), and Paul and Silas before the Magistrates ol 
 Philippi, by Delaval 6th, an Adoration of the Shepherds, 
 hy Do Santerre ; St. Peter, hy Jouvenet ; a remarkable 
 Entombment of Christ in stone, surrounded by the Virgin 
 and six other statues of the size of life. 6th, an Adoration ; 
 Christ descending to hell. In this and some of the following 
 chapels will be remarked the sacred subjects on glass in the 
 windows, with quaint mottos in old French verse. 7th, St. 
 Charles Borromeo, by Varin (1627), St. Louis praying. 8th, 
 St. Bernard praying, and the Jews collecting manna, by 
 Subeyras. In the wall, between this chapel and the 
 9th, there is St Stephen preaching, by Abel de Pujol. 
 9th and 10th. Under a vaulted ceiling connecting these two 
 chapels is a tomb, supposed, from an inscription near 
 it, to he the original depository of the body of Ste. Genevieve, 
 but which from its mouldings must be of the 13th century. 
 The walls are hung with a vast number of votive images, &c. 
 The second of these chapels has beautiful decorations, and a Go- 
 thic altar, gilt and painted in the most gorgeous Byzantine 
 style, and adorned with the statues of Ste. Genevieve, St. Ger- 
 main, and Ste. Clotilda, besides nine statues of saints in alto-ri- 
 lievo around the altar-table. Near this chapel, in the aisle, are 
 two fine pictures, by Largillicre and Detroy (1696); one re- 
 presents the Genius of France with the Parlement interceding 
 with Ste. Genevieve for the cessation of a famine which then 
 
 (I) The snhject of this quaint composition is ; “Many are called, 
 but few are chosen.” To the rigid a few chosen approach the 
 Lord’s Supper; to the left, all follow worldly pursuits; one buys 
 a house, another a bulloch, and a third marries. 
 
SIXTEENTH WALK 
 
 408 
 
 raged ; the other represents the Prevot des Marchands and the 
 city officers in full costume, with a great number of spectators, 
 among whom are Largilliere himself and the poet Santeuil, 
 praying to Ste. Genevieve. They are said to he both votive 
 pictures, ofTered by the City of Paris, llth, an Epitaph 
 on Racine, written Jiy Roileau, and another on Pascal; Sta- 
 tues of Charity, by Laitie, and of Hope, hy Rrime. 12 th 
 (provisionally closed), nth, a< rucifixion, with Louis XIIL 
 and St. Louis introduced at the foot of the cross; a Holy 
 Family by Coypcl. 14th, a curious picture of the Virgin 
 and I hild, of the 1 7th century. 15th. St. Augustine crowned 
 with thorns ; 16th, a series of curious frescoes, in 12 com- 
 partments, lately discovered and restored. They are appa- 
 rently of the 16th century, and illustrate a lesend of the 
 martyrdom of a Roman legion converted to Christianity ; 
 17th, the Lapidation of St. Stephen ; 18th, a crucifixion, by 
 Porhus ; a Nativity, hy I.cnain; 19th, the Death of St. I.ouis ; 
 20 th, “ Give to ' aesar what is 'hTsar’s ;” 21st, the Adoration 
 of the Magi : St. .lohn the Evangelist. The pulpit, hy 
 Lesloccard, after designs executed hy Lahire, is supported 
 by a figure of Samson, and ornamented with beautifully- 
 carved statuettes. On the 3d of January, the festival of Ste. 
 Genevieve, and 8 following days, pilgrimages are made to this 
 church, and it is celebrated in Paris for the ceremonies that 
 take place in it. (1) Pascal, Tournefort the botanist, Lesueurthe 
 painter, P. Perrault, Lemaitre, Racine, Rollin, and the Abbe 
 de Sacy, were interred here. This church, from the rich effect 
 produced hy its singular architecture, its pictures, and its 
 other ornaments, is one of the most interesting of the capital, 
 and is now being enlarged and repaired at a cost of 2,000,000 
 francs. The interior is a favourite subject with French artists. 
 
 The Lycee Napoleon is established in part of the church 
 and other buildings of the abbey of Ste. Genevieve, founded 
 in the year 508 by Clovis and his queen Clotilde. The former 
 was buried here in 511. Up to the time of the revolution of 
 1789 the tomb of this king existed in the church of St. Gene- 
 vieve, hut was evidently of more recent construction. This 
 tomb was transported in 1816 to the abbey of St. Denis. 
 The first church of Ste. Genevieve was burnt hy the Danes 
 n 857. Under the reign of Louis VII. the abbey was re-or- 
 
 ( 1 ) It xvason the occasion of this festival, on the 3d of January 
 18.57. that Mm’- Denis Sibour, Archbishop of Paris, was assassi- 
 nated, opposite to the principal entrance, hy a priest named Ver- 
 ger, in the presence of an immense crowd. Although great efforts 
 Avnre made at the ti-ial to prove the insanity of the culprit. Verger 
 was condemned and executed on the 3oth of the same month. 
 
COLLEGE DES ECOSSAIS. 409 
 
 ganized; (1) in 1177, the abbey was repaired and enlarged and 
 a school established in it. The church occupied the site of the 
 rue Clovis. Little remains now of the old abbey except the 
 western wing and a tower enclosed by the modern building of 
 the lyceum. The former is of the 14th century, the upper 
 part of the tower is of the 15 th, and the side towards the rue 
 Clovis (so called because the lower portion of the tower is said 
 to have been built in his reign) was erected as late as 1825. 
 The apartments still existing contain several objects of curio- 
 sity, such as a series of portraits of the sovereigns of France, 
 from Philippe le Hardi to Louis XV., and also one of Mary 
 Queen of Scots. This lyceum, which is receiving considerable 
 additions, was called College de Henri IV. in 1814, but has 
 now resumed the name it received in 1 802 . The sons of Louis 
 Philippe were educated at this college (see p.97). In the 
 first court is a bust of Casimir Delavigne. 
 
 At the opposite end of the rue Clovis, No. 33, rue des 
 Fosses St Victor, now a boarding-school conducted by M. 
 Chevalier, was formerly the 
 
 College des Ecossais. — This seminary, first situated in rue 
 des Amandiers, was established in the present building in 1665. 
 It was originally founded by David, bishop of Moray in 
 Scotland, in 1325 ; and again by James Beatoun, or de Be- 
 thune, Archbishop of Glasgow, in 1603. A marble slab, on 
 the chapel door, records these facts, in a Latin inscription, 
 surmounted by the armorial bearings of the two founders. The 
 college was rebuilt by Bobert Barclay in 1 665. This and the 
 two other British colleges were suppressed at the revolution of 
 17 89, and their property sequestrated. The government of Na- 
 poleon embodied all the British colleges of Paris in one esta- 
 blishment, under the authority of the Minister of the Interior, 
 and gave them the Irish college, rue des Irlandais. Over the 
 door was inscribed, Chef-Uexi des Colleges Britanniques. 
 Upon the Bestoration, the former president of the colleges, 
 and the other English Catholic clergy, claimed their property. 
 That of the Irish college was restored without difficulty, but 
 that of the Scotch and English was left in the hands of an ad- 
 
 (1) The cause whicli led to this measure was a quarrel about a 
 carpet Avliich tlie canons had caused to he spread before tlie door 
 of the abbey for the convenience of Pope Eugene 111., who had 
 come to Paris in 1145, having been driven away from Rome. The 
 familiars of the Pope claimed the cairpet as their own, on the 
 ground that the Pope had sat upon it. The servants of the abbey 
 woidd not allowthe claim ; high words ensued, followed by blows, 
 and (lie car|iet was torn to pieces in (he fray. In consequence of 
 this scandalous occui'rence, a new abbot was named, and 12 new 
 canons transferred to this abbey from that of St. Victor. 
 
410 SIXTEENTH WALK. 
 
 ministrator appointed by government, and still remains under 
 Uie control of the Minister of Public Instruction for the purpose 
 of defraying the expenses of clerical education of young men 
 chosen by the Catliolic iushops of Scotland and England. The 
 present administrator is M. I’abbe Caire. Its cliapel, which was 
 erected in 1672, and dedicated to St. Andrew, was repaired by 
 M. Delavigne, the predecessor of M. Chevalier. It is on 
 the first floor, and in the Ionic style ; part of the nave has been 
 separated from the rest of the chapel by a partition, thus form- 
 ing a vestibule. Here the visitor will see the monument of the 
 unfortunate .lames II., erected to his memory by his faithful 
 friend and the constant companion of his exile, James Duke of 
 Perth, governor of his son, called James III., the Pretender. 
 This monument, consisting of a black marble sarcophagus rest- 
 ing on a basement, and surmounted by a pyramid of white 
 marble, xx^as executed by Louis Gamier, in i703, and bears a 
 long Latin inscription. On the top of the monument was 
 formerly an urn of bronze gilt, containing the brain of the 
 King, who died at St. Germain en Laye, Sept. 16, 1701. 
 When the Irish college xvas made the chef-lieu of the British 
 colleges, this monument was transported there, xvhere it re- 
 mained some years; but is iioxv restored to its original place. 
 Under the aieh adjoining it is a slab, over the heart of the 
 Queen, another over the entrails of Louisa Maria, second 
 daughter of the king; and on one side, another over the heart 
 of Mary Gordon, of Huntly, Duchess of Perth. In the second 
 portion of the chapel is the altar of oak, of Corinthian archi- 
 tecture, and richly carved. The altar-piece represents the 
 martyrdom of St. Andrew. The monogram SA is frequently 
 repeated among the sculpture of the chapel. In the study of 
 the director of the Institution is a full-length portrait of the 
 Pretender, in armour. Monumental tablets and inscriptions 
 exist liei'c in memory of James Drummond, Duke of Perth, 
 who died in 1720, and of the next Duke of the same name, 
 xvho died in 17 26; of John Caryl, Baron Dunford; Frances 
 .Tennings, Duchess of Tyrconnel; Sir Patricl; Monteith, of 
 Salmonet; Sir Marian O’Conoly; Dr. Andrew Hay; Dr. Lewis 
 Innes, confessor to James II.; and Dr. Robert Barclay. The 
 valuable manuscripts of James II. , xvhich, as mentioned in the 
 inscription on his monument, xvere preserved here, disappeared 
 during the revolution of 1789, but the Library still exists. 
 
 Returning by the rue Clovis, a few steps to the right in the 
 rue Descartes lead us to the 
 
 UcOLE PoLYTECiiNiQiiE, I’ue Dcscaites, established in 1795 
 in the buildings of the College de Navarre, founded in 1304 by 
 Philippe le Bel and Joan of Navarre. A fine hall and chapel 
 
MANUFACTURE UES GOBELINS. 411 
 
 of tlie 14th century belonging to the old college still remain. 
 The front entrance facing the rue Descartes is ornamented with 
 bas-reliefs representing implements and machines of v/ar and 
 peace, with five medallions on the attic, of Legrand, Laplace, 
 Monge, Bertholet, and Fourcroy, (see p. 98.) The building 
 with its enlargements has cost 2,000,000 fr. 
 
 On the small square in front of this edifice is the new 
 Fontaine Ste. Genevieve, replacing one erected in 162.4. 
 
 In the rue de I’Fcole Polytechnique, opposite, at No. 6, 
 there stood the chapel of the College des Grassins, founded in 
 1569 by Pierre Grassin d’Ablon, for poor scholars in divinity. 
 In the rue de la Montagne Ste. Genevieve, at No. 37, was the 
 College de la Marche. Nearly opposite to it are the remains 
 of the College or Semmaire des Trente-Trois, so called from 
 the number of scholars it contained, 33 having been the age 
 of our Saviour. 
 
 SSTEITTESITTH IT'ALZ. 
 
 This comprises another portion of the 5th arrondissemenL 
 We may commence it with the 
 
 Manufacture Ijiperiale des Gobelins (Tapestry and Car- 
 pet Manufactory), rue MoufTetard. — From the 14th century 
 dyers of wool have been established in the Faubourg St. Marcel, 
 upon theBievre, the water of thatstreambeing favourable to the 
 process of dyeing. One of them, Jean Gobelin, who lived in 
 1450, acquired considerable property in the neighbourhood. His 
 descendants continued his trade with success, and, having be- 
 come extremely rich, discontinued business, and eventually 
 filled various offices in the state. To them succeeded Messrs. 
 Ganaye, who, not confining themselves to dyeing wool, worked 
 tapestry for hangings, a manufacture until that period confined 
 to Flanders. About 1655 they were succeeded by a Dutch- 
 man named Gluck, bringing with him a workman named .lean 
 Uansen, who excelled in the art . The establishment prospering, 
 Louis XIV., at the suggestion of Colbert, determined to erect it 
 into a royal manufactory. The houses and gardens of the es- 
 tablishment were purchased in 1662. Skilful artists were at- 
 tached to the manufactory, and, in 1667, the celebrated Le- 
 brun was appointed director. (1) Here is also the celebrated 
 carpet-manufactory, wbich was made a royal establishment in 
 1604, by Marie de Medicis, in favour of Pierre Dupont, who 
 invented the process for finishing the carpets, and Avho was 
 placed at its head with the title of director. The workshops, 
 
 (i) Lebrun painted his famous battles of Alexander the Great 
 as patterns for this manufactory. 
 
412 
 
 SEVENTEENTH WALK. 
 
 originally placed in the Louvre, were transferred, in 1615 , to 
 a soap-manufactory at Chaillot, and the establishment hence 
 derived the name of La Savonnerie. In 1826 it was annexed 
 to the Gobelinti. The visitor will pass through five rooms 
 filled with specimens of rich tapestry and carpets of the reigns 
 of Francis I., Louis XIV., and Louis XV., besides se- 
 veral modern specimens, mostly e.xecuted at this establish- 
 ment. Among these he will see copies of the Emperor and 
 Empress’s full-length portraits by Winterhalter, both executed 
 in about 4 years ; No. 95, the Transtigurat'on, by Raphael (6 
 years), Juno, Ceres, and Venus, by the same master (4 ye^), 
 the portrait of Louis XVL, by Callet (l year), &c^^xt 
 follow the work-rooms for tapestry and carpets, six in 
 number, containing 25 looms. the work is called the 
 haute-lisse, from the warp being placed vertical, in contra- 
 distinction to the basse-lisse, done at Beauvais, where the 
 i warp is horizontal. In the tapestry-work, which is called 
 I tissu, the workman stands at the back of the canvas on which 
 he is employed, with the model behind him, to which he oc- 
 casionally refers, in order to adjust the colour of his woollen 
 I or silken thread to that part of the picture he is copying. The 
 object of the process being to present as smooth and delicate a 
 I surface as possible, all cuttings and fastenings are performed at 
 the back. Hence the necessity of his working on the wrong side^ 
 The carpet-work is called velours; here the workman stantls 
 on the right side, Avith the model over his head, at a proper 
 distance from his eyes. As a woolly surface is required, the 
 workman, in weaving, cuts on the right side of the piece. 
 The carpels manufactured here are considered far superior to 
 the Persian for the evenness of their surface, the fineness and 
 the strength of their texture. The colours and designs are per- 
 fect. Some of the carpets take as long as 5 to 10 years to be 
 made, and cost from 60,000 to 150,000 fr., and even at these 
 high prices the workmen are very inadequately paid. None 
 are sold. The largest carpet ever made is probably that ma- 
 nufactured at La Savonnerie, for the gallery of the Louvre ; 
 it consists of 72 pieces, forming altogether a length of more 
 than 1300 feet. In one of the rooms will be seen several 
 presses, filled with specimens of colours for dyeing, and also 
 of wool ready dyed. About 120 workmen are employed in the 
 establishment; they earn from 1500 to 3,000 fr. a-ycar, and 
 receive pensions of from 600 to looo fr. when disabled by 
 age or infirmity. The productions of this manufactory, which 
 belongs ^to government, are chiefly destined for the palaces 
 of the fetate. Connected with the manufactory is an fc- 
 tablishmeixt for dyeing wool, directed by able chemists,, 
 
CHURCFI OF ST. MEDARD. 413 
 
 where an infinite variety of shades, many unknown in 
 the trade, are produced. There is also a school of design ; 
 and an annual course of lectures on chemistry, as applicable 
 to dyeing, is given here from October to January. The 
 closeness with which the painter’s art can be here imitated 
 will excite the visitor’s astonishment. A catalogue may be had 
 at the lodge for 1 franc. Admission, on Wednesdays and 
 Saturdays, from 2 to 4 in summer, and from 1 to 3 in winter, 
 with Passport or tickets, to be obtained from the Director. 
 
 Continuing northwards along the rue Mouffetard, the rues 
 Valence and Pascal would lead us to the IlopiUU Lourcine 
 (see p. 140) ; but as strangers are not admitted there, and it 
 is otherwise uninteresting (1), the visitor had better turn 
 to the right, and visit the church of 
 
 St. Medard. — This was, as early as the 12th century, the 
 parish church of the village of St. Medard, dependent on the 
 abbey of Ste. Genevieve. The front consists of a gable with 
 buttresses; the nave and aisles are of the end of the 1 5th century; 
 the choir and its arcades are of 1561 and 1586. The square 
 tower, supporting a spire, is probably as old as the nave. In 
 1685 and 17 84 the deformities of its choir and chapels were 
 added. Most of the key-stones bear bas-reliefs, and the 
 groinings, with their ribs and pendant bosses, are exceedingly 
 graceful. In many of the windows valuable specimens of old 
 stained glass will be remarked. In the first chapel in the right 
 hand aisle, on the panel of the altar, a valuable old painting 
 on wood will attract attention : it represents the Descent from 
 the Cross. The 2d is the Chapel of St. Fiacre, painted in fresco 
 by Leuillier ; to the left, St. Fiacre is represented preaching, 
 and opposite, affording relief to the poor on a winter’s day. 
 The figures of Charity and Humility are on each side of the 
 window. Next is a plaster Descent from the Cross, not with- 
 out merit, and in the Chapel of the Crucifixion a Dead Christ, 
 and several small paintings of some value, among which may 
 be mentioned the Virgin and Saviour, St. Francis de Sales, and 
 St. Vincent de Paule. A very good Annunciation is in the 
 following one. The 7th chapel, behind the choir, is dedi- 
 cated to tiie Virgin, and is remarkable for the Marriage of the 
 Virgin, by Caminade, and the ceremony of the Rosieres, insti- 
 tuted by St. Medard, by Dupre. Tliere are also two plaster 
 statues ; the one is St. Joseph, by Jacquot, the other St. Phi- 
 
 (i) This hospit.ll was inaugurated in 1 836 , as an addition to 
 the Hopital du Midi. Tlie buildings wliich it occupies were for- 
 merly the convent of the Cordelieres, founded by Marguerite de 
 Provence, sister lo St.Loiii.s, about i 2 s 4 . In 1590, the troops of 
 Henry IV. pillaged the building and destroyed a large part of it. 
 
414 SEVENTEEKTII WALK, 
 
 lomene, by Dubois. The 8th chapel has a fine picture of Ste. 
 Genevieve, by Watteau. In the 9th is a picture of the Flemish 
 school, representing the Virgin learning to read under the tui- 
 tion of St. Anne, her mother. In the loth is some old 
 stained glass representing Ste. Anne, the Virgin, and tlie 
 Saviour. In the 1 1th, we see St. Vincent de Paule an- 
 nouncing the gospel to the poor, by Fuller. In the 12th, a 
 new painting by Boulanger, St. Denis causing an idol to 
 fall by miracle, and in the 13th, the Baptism of 
 
 Christ. There are two organs; the larger is over the 
 
 entrance; the other in the right aisle. Over the canopied 
 
 seat in the nave are the four evangelists, painted on can- 
 vass. — Some curious historical events are connected with this 
 church. In 1501, an attack was made on it by some Cal- 
 vinists, after hearing a sermon in a neighbouring house. Se- 
 veral of the congregation in the church were killed, and much 
 damage done. In 17 27, the Abbe Paris was buried in the 
 cemetery, and in 1730 the Convulsionists commenced their 
 exhibitions here (1). The advocate Patru, the French Quinti- 
 lian, and Nicole, tlie moralist, were buried here. The rue 
 Mouffetard here crosses the small stream of the Bievre (see 
 p. 20). Its muddy and unwholesome waters are of great 
 value to the numerous tanners and dyers, established along 
 its course from time immemorial. 
 
 At the corner of the rue de I’Arbalete, the visitor would 
 find to his right the poor and dingy-Iooking 
 
 Mauciie des Patiuarciies. Turning into the same street 
 to the left, we see at No. 9 the Botanical Garden of the 
 
 ficoLE de Piiarmacie. — Thc establishment itself is at No. 
 21, and occupies the site of an ancient convent, called 
 Ilopital de Lourcine. The first botanical garden in France 
 was formed in thc grounds of this convent in 1 580, 
 on the model of that of Padua. There is a cabinet of speci- 
 mens of all kinds of drugs, with a select mineralogical collection, 
 well worthy of inspection ; also a small but select library, 
 open daily to the public from 10 to 3. Underneath is the hall 
 
 (i) The Convulsionists were a set of fanatics of the Jansenist 
 party, who, after the death of the Abhii Paris, celebrated for his 
 resistance to the Bull Unigenitus, and for his charity, used to 
 frequent his tomb, where they feigned convulsions which were 
 attributed to miraculous agency. This superstition spread with 
 such rapidity, that tlie Government was at length, in 1732, 
 obliged to interfere, and order the cemetery to be closed. This 
 measure called forth the following epigram, which was found 
 inscribed on the gate. 
 
 De par le roi, defense ii Dicii 
 
 De faire miracle en ce lieu. 
 
OBSERVATOIRE. 4 1 5 
 
 Of meeting, containing some interesting portraits of French phy 
 sicians. It is visible every day except Sunday ( see p. 135 ). 
 
 Continuing in the same direction, we find at No. 15 rue 
 des Capucins, the ’ 
 
 IIopiTAL DU Midi. — This building was erected by the Ca- 
 puchin friars, and occupied as a monastery till 17 84 ; it was 
 then converted into an hospital for nurses and new-born infants 
 affected with syphilitic complaints. In 1792 adults of both 
 sexes were admitted, but subsequently the sexes were sepa- 
 rated, and females were sent to another hospital, the Lourciue 
 (see p. 140). To visit the hospital, apply to the Director. 
 In the street opposite, the visitor will find the 
 Maison d’Accouciiement, 5, rue du Port Royal (see p. 135.) 
 In the rue du Faubourg St. Jacques, at No. 47, is the 
 Hopital Cochin, founded by M. Cochin, the benevolent 
 rector of St. Jacques du Haut Pas, in 17 80. It was intended 
 for his own parishioners ; but patients, of the same classes as 
 those of the Hotel Dieu, are now received from all parts of 
 the capital (seep. 140.) The building is Doric, and consists 
 of a main body with three pavilions. At No. 57 in the rue 
 du Faubourg St. Jacques is the convent of the Dames de St. 
 Joseph, and at No. 71, a convent of Capuchins. 
 
 The rue Mechain leads to the rue do la Saute, where, at 
 No. 29, we find a convent of the Dames August ines du Sucre 
 Coeur , erected at a cost of two millions of francs. Besides a 
 boarding-school for young ladies, this convent also has accom- 
 modation for female invalids, who are attended here qs in a 
 Maison de Sante. Nearly opposite, a new prison has been 
 built to replace the Madelonnettes (see p. 77). This edifice 
 covers a space of 25,000 square metres, and is partly 
 arranged, like the Prison Mazas (see p. 75), on the cellular 
 system for prisoners under trial, and partly on the old system 
 for persons condemned to imprisonment for a term not ex- 
 ceeding one year. It is calculated to contain 500 prisoners 
 of each category, and has cost 6,000,000 fr. 
 
 Returning to the rue du Faubourg St. Jacques, the rue 
 Cassini, to our right, brings us to the 
 
 Observatoire, adjoining the rue d’Enfer. — Upon the esta- 
 blishment of the Academy of Sciences in the reign of Louis 
 XIV., Claude Perrault was charged by Colbert to prepare a 
 design for this edifice, which Avas begun in 1667, and finished 
 in 1672. When the building was already far advanced, John 
 Dominic Cassini, the astronomer, whom Colbert had sent for 
 from Bologna, came to Paris. He found the structure so ill 
 adapted to its purpose, that, at his suggestion, several altera- 
 
416 SEVENTEENTH WALK, 
 
 lions were made, which, however, did not render it suitable | 
 for taking accurate observations. The principal pile forms a \ 
 
 parallelogram of 90 feet by 82, to which have been added on { 
 
 the south two lateral octagonal towers. In the north front j 
 
 is a projection of 24 feet, from which the building is en- j 
 
 tered.* The platform on the top is 85 feet from the ground. 
 
 The whole building is of stone, neither wood nor iron 
 having been used. The principal part of this edifice being 
 found useless, a low building has been erected on the ] 
 east, in which nearly all the observations are made. This | 
 
 is so placed that two sides are parallel, and two perpen- | 
 
 dicular, to a meridian line traced on the floor of a room on j 
 
 the second story, from which French astronomers count j 
 their longitude ; its direction is marked by an obelisk at Mont- | 
 
 martre, distant nearly three English miles and a half from the | 
 
 Observatory. On this line, between Dunkirk and Barcelona, | 
 the observations were made for determining the length of the | 
 arc of the terrestrial meridian between the equator and pole, < 
 now fixed at 5,130,740 toises. (1) The line of the southern j 
 front is taken as the latitude of Paris. This observatory is the | 
 centre from whence have diverged tlie several trigonometrical 
 calculations for forming the map of France, known as, In Carte 
 de Cassini, or de I’Observatoire, in 182 slieets. Underneath 
 the building are some subterranean chambers, now no longer 
 used, which were originally constructed for making astrono- 
 mical observations, by means of openings through the roof of 
 tlie edifice, for experiments on gravitation, &c. On the first 
 floor is a telescope 22 feet in length, and 22 inches in diameter, 
 not n6w used ; there is also an achromatic telescope of large 
 dimensions. Ilere also we see a marble statue of Cassini, who 
 died in 17 12, aged 87, and another very fine one of Laplace, 
 the celebrated astronomer, by Garraud. The collection of 
 modern telescopes and astronomical instruments of all kinds 
 attached to this institution is exceedingly good. On tlie 
 second floor is a spacious room, containing globes, various 
 magnetic instruments, the meridian line upon the floor, a 
 mural quadrant, &c. On the floor of another room is a map 
 of the world, engraved by Chazelles and Sedileau, and on 
 the roof there is an anemometer, which indicates the flirection 
 of the wind, on a dial-plate in one of the rooms. Tlliere arc 
 also two ram-gauges, for ascertaining the quantity of rain 
 which falls at Paris during the year. The eastern tower is co- 
 vered with an immense rotatory cupola of copper, by means 
 of which the observer may point the great equatorial it con- 
 
 (i) The ten-millionth part of this length has been adcpled for 
 the metre, or standard linear measure in France. 
 
HOSPICE DES ENFANS ASSISTj5s. 417 
 
 tains to any part of the heavens under shelter. Smaller 
 ones of similar construction cover two little turrets on the 
 roof, and a telescope of the largest dimensions has now been 
 set up in the western tower. The number of steps leading 
 to the roof is 1 02 . A well-selected library of 45,ooo volumes, 
 for the use of the professors and observers, is attached to the 
 establishment. The building on the east is entered from the 
 first floor of the principal structure, and contains various 
 instruments. The roof of this small building, and of the 
 cupola of the upper platform, opens in various parts, by means 
 of simplemechanical arrangements. The Bureau des Longitudes 
 holds its sittings here (see p. 91.) The Observatory is sur- 
 rounded by a terrace, according to the original plan of Perrault 
 and the outer court enclosed by railings and pavilions. In one 
 of the wings added to the main building is an amphitheatre for 
 800 persons, where the celebrated Arago used to give his 
 popular lectures on astronomy every year. This establish- 
 ment is visible upon application in writing for a ticket to 
 M . le Directeur de I’Observatoire. A wide avenue leads 
 straight from the Observatoire to the garden of the Luxembourg. 
 
 Next door to the Observatory, there is a reservoir for 
 water, deserving of a visit from the antiquarian. The stranger 
 on descending a few steps will see four vaulted chambers with 
 reservoirs receiving water from Arcueil. Part of the vaulting 
 is of Roman construction ; the more modern parts and the chief 
 conduit date from Marie de Medicis, who laid the first stone 
 with great ceremony in 1624. The largest chamber of this 
 reservoir has 78 arches; it is 31 metres by 30, and contains 
 1395 cubic metres of water (307,034 gallons). In the entrance 
 court may be seen some fragments of water-pipes of Roman 
 construction. A small fee is expected by the person who 
 shows this place. 
 
 Turning to the left into the rue d’Enfer, we see at 
 No. 74, the 
 
 Hospice des Enfans AssistEs, or Orphan and Found- 
 ling Asylum, founded by St. Vincent de Paule in 1638. 
 In 1667, on a decree of the Parlement, the managers 
 erected the Hospice des Orphelins in the Faubourg St. An- 
 toine, and placed the Enfants Trouves at the corner of the 
 Parvis Notie Dame. At the revolution of 1789, the latterwere 
 removed to their present house, formerly the Convent of the 
 Pretres de I’Oratoire. At the same time the ancient abbey of 
 Port Royal, now a lying-in hospital, was appropriated to the 
 same purposes see p. 1 19). The buildings are plain, but airy 
 and comfortable. There is a statue of St. Vincent de Paule, 
 by Stouf, in the court. A little beyond is the 
 
 27 
 
418 SEVENTEENTH WALK. 
 
 INFIRMERIE DE Marie TiiErEse, 116, Tuc d’Eiifer, for an 
 account of which, see page 122. 
 
 Returning northwards, we perceive, facing the Boulevard 
 Montparnasse, and close to the gardens of the Close.ric des Lilas 
 (see p. 48 1), the statue of the unfortunate MarshalNey, erected 
 on the spot where he was shot, and inaugurated with great so- 
 lemnity on the 7 th of December, 1853, the anniversary of his 
 execution, in the presence of Prince Napoleon and the high func- 
 tionaries k State. It stands on a pedestal of white marble, 
 richly sculptured by Gisors. On the faces of tire pedestals are 
 engraven the names of the battles at wliich the hero distin- 
 guished himself. The artist, M. Rude, has represented the 
 illustrious marshal in an attitude of command, animating his 
 followers to advance ; but the open mouth, which in this case 
 completely distorts the features, is an unfortunate circumstance. 
 
 Striking into the rue du Val de Grace, further on. No. 05, 
 rue d’Enfer, next to the corner to our left, is the Convent des 
 Dames Carmelites, where Mdlle. de la Valliere, the beautiful 
 mistress of Louis XIV., tookthe veil in 167 5, as Sceur Louise de 
 la Misericorde,mi was soon joined by Madame deMontespan. 
 In the chajiel is seen a fine marble monument of Cardinal 
 Berulle, founder of the convent. He is represented kneeling on 
 a pedestal adorned with bas-reliefs. In a recess to the left 
 there is another valuable bas-relief in marble, by Barrois, re- 
 presenting a Descent from the Cross. The best paintings are ; 
 a Virgin and Child, St. Joseph and Jesus, Christ bearing the 
 Lamb, by Guet, and an Annunciation, by Mueller. This chapel, 
 said to have been founded by Roliert, the son of Hugh Capet, 
 has now been decorated in the Byzantine style. 
 
 At the opposite end of the rue du Val de Grace stands the 
 
 HopitalMiutairedu Val de Grace, 277, rue St. Jacques. 
 This hospital, established by Napoleon I. in the buildings of 
 a convent of Benedictine nuns, is one of the most important in 
 Paris. Attached to it is a military school of medicine and sur- 
 gery. A quadrangular court is entered by a railing facing the 
 street ; the sides are adorned with ten triangular pediments sup- 
 ported by columns of irregular Doric design. To the left is the 
 bronze statue of Baron Larrey, the celebrated surgeon,, on a 
 pedestal of white marble, adorned with four bas-reliefs of the 
 same metal, representing the battles of la Beresina, the Pyra- 
 mids, Austerlitz, and Sommo Sierra, where Larrey distinguished 
 himself. The statue, which is ‘J feet high, represents Larrey 
 resting against a howitzer, on which are placed some of his 
 works. In his right hand he holds Napoleon’s will opened at 
 the words ; “ I leave 100,000 fr. to the Surgeon-in-chief Larrey, 
 the most virtuous man I know.” This monument is by David 
 
ClaURCH btJ VAL DE GRACE. 419 
 
 d^Angers. In the second court there is a fine statue of Ihe 
 celebrated surgeon Broussais, who is interred here. The 
 chief object of historical interest here is 
 
 The Church of Val de Grace, in front of the principal 
 court, and founded by Anne of Austria, the consort of Louis 
 XIII. Having been married 22 years without issue, she made 
 a vow that she would build a church at Val de Grace if her 
 desire to give an heir to the throne should be realised. At 
 
 length, on Sept. 6, 1638, she gave birth to a prince, afterwarde 
 Louis XIV. After the death of Louis XIII. the queen prepared 
 to fulfil her vow. In 1024 she laid the first stone of the con- 
 vent, contributing one-half of the expense, and caused the 
 Benedictine nuns of Val Profond, near Bievre le Chatel, three 
 leagues from Paris, to be transferred hither. On April l ,’ 1 045 
 Louis XIV. laid the first stone of the church with great pomp’ 
 The architects were successively the elder Mansard, who fur- 
 nished the designs, Leniercier, Le Muet and Le’duc. Ma- 
 demoiselle de la Valliere retired to this convent, previous to 
 her taking the vows, this convent being then the fashionable 
 retreat for members of the nobility of France. During the re- 
 volution of 17 89 the church was converted into a depot for 
 the materiel of military hospitals, and thus escaped the fury 
 of the populace. In 1826, it was repaired, and restored to 
 divine worship. It is an edifice of magnificent design, 
 with a dome resting on a lofty drum, strengthened around 
 by buttresses, adorned with Composite pilasters, and 
 pierced with sixteen windows ; four campaniles, or small 
 bell-turrets, stand out from the gallery on which the 
 dome rests. The front is ornamented with a portico of Co- 
 rinthian columns supporting a pediment ; above is a range of 
 Composite engaged columns bearing a second pediment The 
 en^trance is approached by a flight of large and wide steps. 
 The plan of the church is that of a Latin cross ; in the nave 
 the public used to attend service, and in the other parts were 
 chapels for the nuns of the convent and for the ladies of the 
 Court. The intersection of the cross is circular, four lofty 
 arches open into the transepts. The nave is flanked by chapels 
 communicating with each other, now devoid of altars, excep- 
 one in the apsis, where the altjir-piece is an Ascension. Tim 
 decorations of this, as well as the other parts of the church, 
 are Corinthian ; the sculptures are by Anguier. In the spandrils 
 of the arches of the nave are large figures in alto-rilievo, re- 
 piesenting the Christian Virtues, and the vaulting of the ceiling 
 presents rich compartments, filled with figures of saints and scroll 
 work. The pendentiyes of the lower dome contain circular 
 compartments, in which are fine alti-rilievi of the four evan* 
 
420 seventeenth WALki 
 
 gelists. The vault of the dome is admirably painted on stone 
 by Mignard, and has been reputed as one of the finest frescoes 
 in France. Around the frieze below the gallery is the follow- 
 ing inscription ; A. MDCL. Anna Austrice D. G. Franco- 
 rum lieqina liegnique rectrix, cui subjecit Deus omnes hostes 
 utconderet Dornum in nomine suo. The high altar is sur- 
 mounted by a magnificent canopy, supported by six fluted 
 spiral columns of grey marble, with bases, capitals, and foliage 
 of bronze gilt. Four angels placed on the entablature of the 
 columns hold censers, and from palm-branches are suspended 
 other angels, with scrolls bearing inscriptions. The whole is 
 terminated by a globe and cross. In front of the altar, and 
 in the intersection of the cross, the letters A. L. (Anne- 
 Louis) are inlaid in the pavement, which here, as well as 
 throughout the whole of the edifice, is formed of rich marbles. 
 The chapels for the nuns are separated from the rest of the 
 building by iron gratings, and in that behind the altar, 
 which is a beautiful piece of architecture, a crimson curtain 
 screened the superiors of the convent from the view of the 
 congregation. In one of these chapels, formerly the oratory 
 of Anne d’Autriche, whose bust is seen on the ceiling held by 
 an Angel, are frescoes representing views from Spain. In the 
 northern chapel of the cross is the entrance to a vault where 
 the remains of the abbesses were deposited, on marble shelves. 
 Here also is shown a cabinet, where the hearts of the Bourbon 
 family were preserved encased in silver, a custom originating 
 from the foundress having bequeathed her heart to this church. 
 The remains of Queen Henrietta, wife of Charles 1. of England, 
 were placed here. During the revolution all these silver 
 hearts were carried off, except one, discovered afterwards, and 
 now visible to strangers ; the prince or princess to whom it 
 belonged is unknown. The heart of Baron Larrey is also pre- 
 served here in a casket. Adjoining this chapel there is a 
 small door, which conceals the confess. onal used by Mile, de 
 la Vallicre ; it consists of a grated window, through which 
 she spoke to the priest, and is accessible from a passage be- 
 hind, from which the building she occupied at that time may 
 be seen. The nuns were buried underneath the nave, in 
 a vault, the entrance of which is near the western door. 
 The church is open every day,' between 12 and 2, and the 
 vaults, 8cc., are shown by amilitary attendant. 
 
 Further northward, at No. 2 54, is the 
 
 Institution Imperiale des Sourds Meets. — For this insti- 
 tution France is indebted to the celebrated Abbe de Ffipee, who, 
 without patronage, and with a fortune not exceeding £500 a- 
 year, undertook to maintain and bring up at his own expense 
 
INSTITUTION IMPERIALE DES SOURDS-MUETS. 421 
 
 more than 40 deaf and dumb pupils, whom he instructed to 
 read and write, to comprehend all the difficulties of grammar 
 and to reduce the most abstract metaphysical ideas to writing’ 
 The Abbe de I’EptHi was first brought into notice by the Em 
 peror Joseph II. on his visitto the French capital in 1777 His 
 sister. Queen Marie Antoinette, soon after visited the school 
 and the institution was ordered to be transferred by Govern- 
 ment to a convent of Celestins, which had been suppressed 
 This, however, was not carried into effect till 1785. The Abbd 
 de I’Epee, dying in 1790, was succeeded by the Abbe Sicard 
 who improved the system of instruction. During the revolu’ 
 tion of 17 89 this institution was transferred to the buildings 
 of the Seminaire de St. Magloire, rue St. Jacques, where it still 
 continues. In the first court there is a tree planted in 1C06 
 under Henry IV. The number of gratuitous pupils is 80 • be- 
 sides 10 admitted to half-pensions, and to to three-quarter pen- 
 sions. At present there are 1 20 male and 7 5 female pupils The 
 number of boarders is unlimited. To be admitted gratuitoiislv 
 ^ into the institution, the child must be full 7 years old, and not 
 I exceed 15, and must present a certificate .com the authorities 
 ' of his or her parish, of age, baptism, vaccination, being reallv 
 deaf and dumb, and without the means of paying for educa- 
 tion. The boys and girls are in separate schools, where they 
 remain six years, and are taught reading, writing, arithmetic 
 drawing, engraving, or some trade. The tei-ms for boarders 
 are 1,000 fr. a-year, besides 300 fr. paid on entering. From 
 90,000 fr. to 100,000 fr. are annually devoted by government 
 to the support of this institution, the Salle des Exercices is 
 Doric, and adorned with the busts of the Abbes de I’Epee and 
 t5icard, and that of the Emperor, with a fine picture of de Ffinee 
 by the donor, M. Camus. It represents the Abbe de I’Epee em- 
 bracing the young Count de Toulouse, at the moment when the 
 latter, who was deaf and dumb and had been educated out of cha- 
 rity by the Abbe, recognizes the house of his relative, who had 
 iwilfully abandoned him. The refectories, dormitories, &c. 
 Are large and airy, and arranged as in the institution des Jeu- 
 Ines Aveiigles (see p. 335). A garden is annexed to the esta- 
 blishment. The chapel is Doric; behind the altar is a re- 
 markable oil-painting by Vernet, of Christ healing a deaf 
 shepherd, and to the left is a picture of good execution by 
 Peyson, a deaf and dumb artist, representing the Abbe de I’Enee 
 on his deathbed. The figure seated next to the death-bed is the 
 Abbe Sicard, and the young man in front represents one Antoine 
 Dubois, who died in 1850, aged 93, having lived continually 
 here, in virtue of the will of the Abbedel’Epee whose pupil he 
 was. The trades taught here are shoemaking, tailoring, turn- 
 
422 SEVENTEENTH WAtK. 
 
 ing, joinery, and lithography. But the visitor wnl he more 
 particularly interested by the method by which the pupils 
 are taugtit not only to speak, but also to understand what is 
 said. The professor takes one pupil at a time, while the 
 others attend to what he does. He first pronounces each 
 vowel, clearly expressing by the motion of his mouth tlie me- 
 chanism by which it is produced. The pupil endeavours to 
 imitate him, and at length pronounces it. He is then shown 
 the letter to which it corresponds. Occasionally the professor 
 puts his fingers into the pupil’s mouth, to shape it into tlie 
 proper form for pronunciation. In a higher class, the pro- 
 fessor speaks slowly, so that the pupil may catch the form of 
 his mouth at each syllable. Thus a question, at the choice of 
 the visitor, is asked, understood, and answered in words, 
 which arc generally much better articulated than might he 
 expected. Admission on Saturdays, from 2 to 4, with 
 tickets. (1). 
 
 Close to this establishment is the church of 
 
 St. Jacques du Haut-Pas, 252, rue St-Jacques. — On this 
 site a chapel, dependent on the hospital du Haut Pas, existed 
 in the 14th century. The present structure was begun in 
 1630, the fiESt stone being laid by Gaston of Orleans, brother 
 of Louis XIII. When the choir was built, the wmrks were sus- 
 pended, but were resumed in 1 67 5, by the munificence of Anne 
 de Bourbon, Duchesse de Longueville, and terminated in 1684. 
 The architecture of this church is Doric ; the plan slightly cruci- 
 form ; the choir ends in a semicircle, and a single aisle surrounds 
 both nave and choir. The right aisle alone is flanked by cha- 
 pels ; the opposite one of the nave has none. The 1st chapel in 
 the former contains the font. In the 2d is a Holy Family, by 
 Delanoe, and a good Virgin and Child on wood, of the 15th 
 century. Close to it, in the aisle, there is an Annuncia- 
 tion. In the transept is a fine Entombment, by Degeorges ; 
 and against the piers of the entrance to the choir are two 
 plaster statues, one of St. Philip, by Grienewald, the other St. 
 James, by Foyatier. In the choir, over the sacristy door, is 
 the Presentation of the Virgin in the Temple. Next follow, 
 1st chapel, St. John the Baptist, by Vetter. 2d, the Saviour 
 blessing the world. 3d, St. Philip preaching to the Phry- 
 gians, by Jacquard, and the same appearing to Theodos;ius, by 
 Coutan. 4th, St. Philip presenting Nathaniel to Jesus, Iby Hol- 
 feld, and the Miracle of the loaves and fishes, by Champanartin. 
 The 5th is the Lady Chapel, of elliptical form, with a line 
 statue of the Virgin and Child ; a Visitation and an Aiinun- 
 
 (i) There are'2i,576 deaf and dumb in all France, of whom 
 12,32b are males, and 9,231 females. 
 
ECOLE NOIliMALE. 423 
 
 ciafion, botli by Bouterweck, and four small paintings by 
 Barret; St. Joseph with Jesus in his arms, St. Louis, St. 
 James, and St. Catherine. 6th, Jesus Christ appearing to St. 
 James, by Goyet, and his Calling of St. James and Judas, by 
 Lestang. 7 th, the Lapidation of St. James, and St. James as 
 Bisliop of Jerusalem, by Jonquieres. 8th, St. Magloire, by 
 Goyet, and a shrine containing his relics. 9th, Jesus healing 
 the step-mother of St. Peter, by Calvaert ; Religion, Hope, 
 Faith, and Charity, in four tableaux, by Lesueur, a St. Peter, 
 by Kestout (1728), and a Sifiite Parvulos, by Gerard, loth, 
 Ste. Genevieve by Carbillet. A good Crucifixion and the 
 altar-piece, by Maillot ; the Vision of St. Jacques on being 
 precipitated from a tower, will be seen in the left transept. 
 In the five windows of the apsis are the figures of saints 
 in modern stained glass. Cassini, the astronomer, was 
 buried here, and the learned La Hire; Cochin, rector of the 
 parish, and founder of the hospital, 8cc. 
 
 At No. 1 93, is the Convent of the Dames de St. Michel. The 
 church lias a Doric facade of some merit. On the same side of 
 the street were the convents of the Ursulines and the Feuillan- 
 tines; and between the latter and the Convent of the Val de 
 Grace was a house of English Benedictines, where part of the 
 remains of James II . were buried, he having bequeathed his 
 head, heart, and intestines to the British Colleges. 
 
 Retracing our steps, the rue des Ursulines will lead us to 
 the rue d’Ulm. At No. 4 5 is the 
 
 Ecole Normale. — This extensive building, finished in 
 1847, is entered by a spacious court fronted by a projecting 
 pavilion, through which the visitor passes by a Doric vesti- 
 bule into a large inner court. The architecture is in the style 
 of the last century. Over the principal entrance are statues 
 representing Science and Literature; and the brackets on the 
 walls of the inner court support the busts of the eminent 
 men formed by the Ecole Normale since its institutionin 1795. 
 The number of pupils is about 80. Spacious corridors lead 
 to the lecture-rooms, cabinets of botany, zoology, fossils and 
 mineralogy, natural philosophy, and laboratory of chemistry. 
 The library, on the first floor, is aspacious saloon, containing 
 20,000 volumes. The Sa'lle de Reception is somewhat smaller, 
 and contains the portraits, in medallions, of Lagrange, 
 Laplace, Haiiy, Daubenton, Monge, Berthollet, Bernardin de 
 St. Pierre, Suard, Garat, and Laharpe, who were the first 
 professors of this celebrated school at the time of its opening, 
 July 17, 1795. The chapel is on the ground floor to the 
 west; it contains a fine Saviour by Lavergne. The dormitories 
 occupy the second story ; the refectories, two in number, are 
 
424 
 
 SEVENTEENTH WALK. 
 
 on the ground floor to the north ; under-ground are the kit- 
 chens, cellars, &c It has cost 2 millions of francs, (see p. 
 96). Strangers are not generally admitted. 
 
 In the rue de la Vieille Estrapade, at No. 16, the visitor will 
 find the entrance to a reservoir receiving water from the 
 artesian well of Crenelle for the use of the Faubourg St. Mar- 
 ceau. It has two receptacles, each 98 feet by ao, and 15 
 feet deep, in all 147,000 cubic feet of water. A third reservoir 
 is constructed under it, to receive the water from Arcueil. That 
 from Crenelle is at 61 degrees Fahrenheit when itarrives here. 
 
 Turning to the right we shall find, at No. 5, rue des 
 Irlandais, the 
 
 College des Irlandais, a commodious building, fonuing 
 three sides of a spacious quadrangle planted with trees. On 
 the ground-floor of the right wing is the chapel, built by 
 Bellanger, in 17 80. It has a marble statue of the Virgin on 
 the altar, and right and left paintings of St. Patrick, and St. 
 Bridget. In a vault beneath repose the ashes of several dis- 
 tinguished Irish; above the chapel there is the library. It is 
 said that James II. bequeathed his intestines to this college, 
 but no monument remains to indicate the spot where they were 
 deposited. This institution is under the superintendence of the 
 Minister of the Interior, and conducted by an administrator, 
 four professors of morals and of dogmatic tbeology, of philoso- 
 phy, of classics, and about 100 Irish students, of whom about 
 2 5 priests graduate annually. A great number of bursarships 
 belong to this college, of which Dr. Lynch is the director. 
 
 Turning to the left into the rue des Postes, we see at No. 
 30 the 
 
 Seminaire DU St. Esprit. — This building was erected in 
 17 69, for a seminary, which was suppressed in 1792, and 
 restored in 1815. It has a fine bas-relief above tbe pediment 
 of the church, representing a missionary preaching, (see 
 p. il3.) It contains some tolerable pictures. 
 
 Next door to this was the College des Anglais, a seminary 
 established by letters patent granted by Louis XIV., in 1684, 
 which authorised Catholics, who could not be educated for the 
 priesthood in England, to live in an ecclesiastical community. 
 The house, suppressed in 17 92, is now let for secular purposes. 
 
 At No. 42, further down, is the elegant building of the 
 College Rollin (see p. 100). 
 
HALLE AUX VINS. 
 
 425 
 
 BIG-HTEEHTH 7TALK. 
 
 This walk comprises the remainder of the 5th arrondisse- 
 menl. Commencing it from the rue St. Victor, the first 
 object of interest we meet with is the 
 
 Halle aux Yens. — ThePariswine-market,establishedin 1 656, 
 beyond the Porte St. Bernard, had long been found insufficient 
 for the commerce of the capital, when Napoleon ordered the 
 construction of one much more extensive upon the site of the 
 celebrated Abbey of St. Victor. The first stone was laid on 
 August 15, 1813. The works, carried on at first with 
 great activity, were relaxed during 1815 and two following 
 years, but have since been finished. The ground on which the 
 Halle aux Vius is constructed measures 441,7 00 metres (109 
 English acres', and it consists of 5 streets, 2 large yards, 63 
 fountains, and 444 cellars and warehouses, capable of con- 
 taining 4 50,000 casks of wine. 80,000 of brandy, and 3,000 
 of olive oil. It is inclosed by a wall on three sides, and towards 
 the quay is fenced by an iron railing nearly 800 metres in 
 length. The streets are called after the different wine coun- 
 tries, viz.; — rue de Champagne, rue de Bourgogne, rue de 
 Bordeaux, rue de Languedoc, and rue de la Cote-d’Or. On the 
 side next the quay are offices for those who superintend the 
 entrance and departure of wines, and a great number of mer- 
 chants’ counting-houses. In the back-ground is a warehouse 
 appropriated to spirits, and constructed without either wood or 
 iron. In the halle there is also a bureau de depotage, con- 
 taining gauges of the casks of the different parts of France ; 
 and purchasers of casks may have them measured here. Wines 
 entering this depot do not pay the octroi duty until they are 
 sold out of it; but, so long as they remain in bond, the 
 owners pay warehouse-rent. See. The number of casks that 
 enter in one day is frequently 1,500. The halle is open from 
 6 to 6 in summer ; and from 7 to 5 in winter. A quantity 
 of inferior wines is always on the wharf opposite. 
 
 On the Place St. Victor, Nos. 24 and 26, with their elabo- 
 rate sculpture and historical medallions, will attract attention. 
 At the corner of the rues St. Victor and Cuvier, is the 
 
 Fontaine Cuvier, or du Jardin des Plantes. — This fountain 
 replaces one built in 17 61, after the designs of Bernini, against 
 one of the boundary towers of the enclosure of the Abbey St. 
 Victor of the 15th century, which remained entire (the only 
 relic of the old Abbey) till lately. The present fountain was 
 planned by M. A. Vigoureux, the architect, and is dedicated 
 to the illustrious savant whose name is thus inscribed over the 
 
/i 2 6 EIGHTEENTH WALK. 
 
 entablature — “A Georges Cuvier.'” The ornaments of tliis 
 monument are very elaborate. It is composed of a lofty half- 
 . circular pedestal, supporting two Ionic columns, between 
 whicli a female figure seated on a lion represents the genius of 
 Natural History, with an owl at her side; abo^e is an eagle 
 with a lamb in its talons. In her left band sbe holds a 
 tablet, on which are inscribed the words “ Rerum cognoscere 
 causas,” and at her feet are a number of marine and land animals. 
 The volutes of the capitals of the columns are made up of spiral 
 shells, cleverly arranged ; the entablature and spanclrils of the 
 arch are sculptured in the same taste. The band of the pe- 
 destal is sculptured with heads of men and of animals. Water 
 issues from the mouths of three lizards placed around the 
 pedestal, and falls into a semicircular iron basin. MM. Feu- 
 cheres and Pomaratau were the sculptors. 
 
 Opposite to this there is one of the entrances to the Janlin 
 (les Plantes (see next page), and at No. 1, rue Lacepede, the 
 Hopital de la PitiE.— Founded in 1612 ; its chapel is 
 dedicated to Notre Dame d.e la Pitie. From its foundation until 
 1809 it was used as an asylum for orphan children (see p. 1 . 29 ). 
 Strangers are admitted from 10 to 12 on applying to the 
 Director. The chapel contains five pictures by Lecerf. 
 
 The rues Lacepede and de la Clef lead to 
 Ste. Pelagie, the prison for political offenders (see p. 
 78), which is entered by theme du Puits de I’Hermite. 
 
 The rue dii Pont-aux-Biches, in a line with the rue de la 
 Clef, skirts the new 
 
 Halle aux Cuiks, occupying a space of 30,000 sq. metres. 
 In the Place Scipion, hard by, we see tlie 
 Boulangeuie GenEkale, or Maison Scipion. — Under the 
 reign of Henry HI., a rich Italian, named Scipion Sardini, built 
 an hotel on this spot, which was purchased in 1622, to form an 
 asylum for aged and infirm men. In 1636, it was given to 
 the Hopital de la Salpetricre for its slaughter-house, bake-house^ 
 &c. It now forms a general bake-house for all the hospitals 
 and hospices. All the work generally done by hand is done 
 here by steam, and by the same agency corn is ground here 
 by 12 mills. The best hour for visiting this establishment is 
 between 12 and 1, when every department is in full activity. 
 At No. 17, in the rue du Fer a Moulin, east of this, is the 
 Amphitheatre of Anatomy, an establishment of anatomical 
 schools, built on the site of the ancient cemetery of Clamart, 
 which has long ceased to be a place of burial (see p. 134). It 
 consists of a large square garden enclosed by an open gal- 
 lery, a building with lecture rooms opposite, and four vast 
 dissecting halls forming the other two sides of the quadrangle. 
 
JARDIN DBS PLANTES. 427 
 
 Each of these halls has 24 stone tables along the walls, co- 
 vered witli zinc. Four pupils dissect at each table, so that 
 90 bodies may he under dissection at once. Upwards of 
 4,000 bodies are dissected annually. The ventilation is excellent. 
 Adjoining the garden, to the right, we pass into the old 
 CiMETiERE DE Ste. Catiierune. — It has been closed since 
 1815, and the only interesting monument it contained was 
 that erected to General Pichegru, who was interred here in 
 1804 , and who, as the reader will recollect, was implicated 
 in a conspiracy against Napoleon. The body has been now 
 removed to Arbois (.lura) by the relatives. This cemetery 
 wdl soon be entirely broken up, as the new Boulevard de 
 St. Marcel, which is to extend from the old Barriore d’Enfcr to 
 the Boulevard de ITIopital, is to pass through the ground. 
 
 At the end of this street, facing the rue Geoffroy St. Hilaire, 
 there is a fountain commemorating the revolution of 1830. It 
 bears no inscription, but is still flanked by two trees of li- 
 berty dating from 1848. A little higher up, we find to our 
 left the principal entrance to the Mu.secm d'Histoire Natu- 
 relle, or, as it is more popularly called, the 
 Jardin des Plantes. — At the solicitation of Herouard and 
 Gu^Td^a^ Brosse, liiiTphysicians, Louis XIII. founded the 
 Jardin des Plantes, in 1 63 5 . Several distinguished men, among 
 whom may be reckoned the names of Duvernoy, Tournefort, 
 Vaillant, Bernard de Jussieu, and Cysternay du Fay, contributed 
 greatly to the prosperity of the establishment, previously to the 
 appointment of Buffon, in 1739, to the functions of superin- 
 tendent. That celebrated naturalist devoted himself perse- 
 veringly to the interest of the garden ; and before his death, in 
 17 88, the names of Daubenton, Anthony de Jussieu, Winslow, 
 A. Petit, Faujas de St. Fond, Van Spaendonck, Desfontaines, 
 Fourcroy, and Portal, shed lustre on the establishment. At 
 the revolution of 17 89, the universities, the faculties of medi- 
 cine, law, 6cc., being suppressed, it was doubtful whether this 
 Garden would not be involved in the general proscription ; 
 but, as it was considered national property, it was respected. 
 During the Reign of Terror, and up to the Consulate, the insti- 
 tution was much neglected, and had deteriorated from want of 
 funds. But on Bonaparte’s arriving at the head of affairs a nexv 
 impulse was given, and the only subsequent check which it 
 received was in 1814 and 1815, when it was apprehended that 
 the foreign troops who occupied Paris would destroy the 
 garden; by a special convention it was however protected 
 from all injury. The magnificent cabinet of the Stadtholder 
 was claimed, but it was afterwards agreed that an equivalent 
 •hould be furnished from the duplicates of the museum. Se- 
 
4 28 EIGHTEENTH WALK. 
 
 veral valuable gems were returned to the Pope, and many 
 objects of natural history and books belonging to emigrants 
 restored. Since that time, however, the support of this mu- 
 seum has been munificently provided for by the State. It is 
 under the control of the Minister of the Interior, who every 
 five years appoints a director and deputy-director out of a 
 list of three names presented to him by the professors of the 
 establishment. Its income and expenditure are managed by an 
 accountant-general, and it is annually subjected to an inspec- 
 tion by a commission appointed by the Minister conjointly 
 with the professors. It consists of, 1st, a botanical garden, 
 with spacious hot-houses and green-houses ; 2 d, several gal- 
 Im-ies of zoology, botany, and mineralogy; 3d, a menagerie of 
 living animals; 4th, a library of natural history ; and 5th, 
 an amphitheatre, with laboratories, &c., for public lectures 
 on every branch of natural history. The lectures, which are 
 all public and gratuitous, commence in April and last till the 
 end of Autumn. The days and hours of admission are to be 
 learnt from the notices posted on the doors of the amphitheatre, 
 or at the bureau of the establishment, where information upon 
 all points is readily given. The whole establishment has cost 
 upwards of 4,000,000 fr. (see page 95). (1) 
 
 Garden . — On entering the garden from the rue Geoffrey St. 
 Hilaire, the first building facing that street is the gallery of zoo- 
 logy; the edifice to the right contains the library, and the mine- 
 ralogical and botanical collections; to the left are spacious hot- 
 houses, the menagerie, and the gallery of comparative anatomy. 
 The intermediate space is flanked by two parallel avenues of 
 lime and chesnut-trees. Bordering on the rue Buffon is a nur- 
 sery of forest-trees, surrounded by an iron railing, and con- 
 tiguous to it, two beds appropriated to such foreign perennial 
 plants as bear exposure to the winter of this climate. Near 
 these is a cafe, for the accommodation of visitors; the acacia 
 in front of it is the oldest in France, being the first brought 
 over to^ Europe in 1635, by Vespasien Robin, gardener to 
 Louis XIII. Between the avenues are large enclosures, forming 
 the “ Botanical Garden ” and part of the “ School of 
 Botany.” It covers a surface of 267,620 square metres, and is 
 carefully arranged ; the visitor may at once know the nature 
 of the various plants by the colours of the tickets ; the red 
 denote medicinal, the green alimentary plants ; the blue those 
 used in the arts, the yellow ornamental, and the black poi- 
 
 (i) The annual expenses of (Ids establishment amount 
 to 582,380 fr., viz., salaries, 308,380 fr. ; travelling expenses, 
 25,000 fr. ; stock, 249, ooo fr. 
 
JAUDIN DES PLANTES. 429 
 
 sonous plants. It is open from 3 to 5 every day. To the west 
 a sunk enclosure presents in summer a splendid display of 
 flowering shrubs. Between the conservatories is a path leading 
 to two mounds. One, called the labyrinth, from its intricate 
 paths, is of a conical shape. On the ascent is a cedar of Le- 
 banon, the first seen in France, which Collinson, an English phy- 
 sician, presented to the garden in 1734; it was planted here, 
 the year following, by the elder Jussieu, and now measures 
 1 1 feet English in circumference at 6 feet from the ground. 
 At the top of the hill the visitor will find a pavilion, entirely 
 of cast bronze, with seats, from which a view extends 
 over the garden, the greater part of Paris, and the distant land- 
 scape in the directions of Montmartre, Vincennes, and Sceaux. 
 One of the pillars has a sun-dial, in reference to which the 
 cornice bears the inscription ; Horas non numero nisi serenas. 
 On the eastern slope is a small inclosure, in the centre of which 
 a granite column, resting on a base of different minerals, marks 
 the grave of Daubcnton. The western hill is a nursery of fir- 
 trees, nearly all the known species being planted on its slope. 
 At the foot of it is a spacious enclosure, containing during fine 
 weather, some of the most beautiful trees of New Holland, the 
 Cape of Good Hope, and the Coast of Barbary, which are then 
 removed from the green-houses. Opposite this stands the am- 
 phitheatre, holding 1,200 persons ; the various courses of lec- 
 * tures given here are annually attended by about 1,800 stu- 
 dents ; a practical chemical laboratory is attached to it. At 
 the door of the amphitheatre stand in summer two Sicilian 
 palms, 25 feet in height, presented to Louis XIV. The 
 buildings adjoining contain the residences of the administra- 
 tors and professors ; to the left a gate opens here into 
 the rue Cuvier, and to the right a path' leads to the Conser- 
 vatories, built many years ago by M. R. de Fleury, on an 
 improved plan. They are of iron, and one of them is 
 entirely devoted to aquatic plants. The Garden of Plants 
 produces from 9 to 10,000 small bags of seed, and 7 to 
 8,000 young trees yearly, which are distributed to profes- 
 sional persons for the purpose of propcigation. The total num- 
 ber of species of plants cultivated in the botanical department 
 of this establishment is upwards of 12,000. To view the Con- 
 servatories apply in writing to M. Decaisne, at the establish- 
 ment, who will send tickets. The garden is open daily till 
 nightfall. Near the amphitheatre is the entrance to the 
 Menagerie. — When Louis XIV. fixed his residence at Ver- 
 sailles, the Academy of Sciences prevailed on him to form a 
 menagerie in the park. This menagerie increased under 
 Louis XV. and XVI., but in 17 89 the animals being neglected. 
 
430 EIGHTEENTH WALK. 
 
 several of them perished for want of food. Those which re- 
 mained were removed to the Museum in 1794, and placed in 
 temporary buildings, and the plan of a menagerie was laid 
 out; it was only, however, by degrees that the necessary 
 ground was obtained. It is divided into numerous compart- 
 ments containing huts and sheds for the animals, enclosed 
 with iron railings and wire-net,’ with paths between, and 
 has lately been undergoing e.vtensive improvements. An 
 artificial rivulet, headed by a small rustic cascade, intersects 
 the whole length of the ground, and here a beaver from 
 Canada has built himself a mansion. Skirting an enclosure 
 containing some fine Egyptian goats, close to the Museum of 
 Comparative Anatomy (see below), we find to our right a 
 community of black swans and poultry from China, India, and 
 other parts ; and a few steps further to our left, a quadrangle 
 devoted to reptiles and warmed by steam. The creatures are 
 confined in glass cages, with blankets to keep them warm, and 
 are visible from the wired windows outside ; a small fee will 
 admit the visitor to the interior. Here we see five alligators, 
 which but two years ago were not more than 1 8 inches in 
 length, and have now grown to three feet and upwards. 
 There are also about a dozen other alligators of different 
 species from Australia and Louisiana, all of considerable size. 
 They have a tank of water in their cage, but growing as they 
 do, their present tenement will soon be insufficient, and a large 
 building will have to be provided for them. Adjoining we “ 
 find a young crocodile, four feet long, and in the next cage a 
 few European serpents which are not venomous ; then an ant- 
 eater, a cameleon and various other lizards. The last cages 
 contain two boa-constrictors and a Python. Continuing 
 along the same path, we see various small aviaries with 
 singing-birds from all the quarters of the globe ; also parrots, 
 cockatooes, quails, woodcocks, nightingales, &c. On the 
 other side of the walk there are enclosures with Mexican and 
 other poultry, owls from South America, porcupines, and 
 hedgehogs. Adjoining this walk there is a nursery containing 
 upwards of 500 kinds of pear-trees all outside the railing 
 which encloses the real Menagerie. From the outer gate to 
 which this path leads, we turn into another to our ri,ght, 
 skirted with enclosures for Llamas and deer of various de- 
 scriptions, besides cages occupied by badgers, wolves, boxes 
 and jackals, in one of the transversal paths, which leads to a 
 laboratory of comparative physiology, containing about a 
 dozen cages with dogs, wolves, and jackals, and the crosses 
 between these species, highly interesting in a physiological 
 point of view, J) 0 th as proofs of their strong affinity, and of 
 
JARDIN BBS PLAKTES. 431 
 
 the fact that their ferocity declines at evei’y successive cross 
 with the dog. This laboratory, which is not accessible to 
 the public, is situated behind a rectangular building divided 
 into 21 cages, containing several bears and hyenas, a wolf, 
 an ocelot, a panther, a jaguar, a Royal tiger, and a lion. The 
 enclosure flanking this building is tenanted by four drome- 
 daries ; that opposite to the dens, by deer, chamois, and 
 lamas ; and that beyond, which skirts the western railing, 
 contains various sheep and deer. The adjoining path to the 
 left of this leads to a semi-circular pavilion, containing a co- 
 lony of monkeys and apes, that afford unceasing amusement 
 to the public by their gambols, caresses, and occasional 
 fighting. The interior may be seen for a small fee by ringing 
 a bell at the right-hand door. Continuing along the path to 
 our left, we arrive at a large aviary for birds of prey. Here 
 we see, in various compartments, vultures from Mexico, 
 Senegal, and India, in close friendship with some French and 
 Swiss ravens. The Caracara of Brazil, several hawks and 
 eagles complete the collection. Other cages contain small 
 singing-birds from different countries. An enclosure close by 
 is inhabited by pheasants, and that opposite contains a few 
 gazelles, oxen, and cows of the Hungarian breeds, remarkable 
 for their large horns ; and further on, we see specimens of the 
 yak, or Thibet ox, with long white silky hair and bushy tails, 
 also the zebu or Indian ox, remarkable for its hunch. The 
 next enclosure is tenanted by hemiones, and this brings us to 
 a polygonal pavilion for the larger animals, viz,, a male and 
 female hippopotamus, the aurochs or European bison, a 
 giraffe, two young elephants, and a larger one from Ceylon. 
 To view the internal arrangements of this building, a ticket 
 should be procured from the Director, but sometimes a fee 
 will do. In the enclosure opposite, there are two very young 
 elephants, that are great favourites with the public. West of 
 this there are three sunken enclosures for bears, two of which 
 are white, the third brown, and the fourth black. The 
 adjoining enclosures contain deer and goats ; further on, there 
 is another for various poultry, swans, storks, and peacocks; 
 the pond in the centre is the favourite abode of a seal caught 
 in the British Channel, and which does not seem the worse 
 for living in fresh water. The total number of mammalia 
 kept here is about 4 50 ; that of the birds 400. — Open daily 
 from 1 1 to C in summer and 1 1 to 3 in winter. 
 
 The zoologist is here enabled with great advantage to study 
 the instinct and habits of animals, the influence of confine- 
 ment, Sec.; and the dead animals which the collection furnishes 
 eiii’ich the museum with valuable acquisitions. 
 
432 EIGHTEENTH WALK. 
 
 Cabinet of Comparative Anatomy. — For this collection, the 
 richest in existence, the museum is indebted to the exertions 
 of Baron Cuvier, by whom it was arranged, and under whose 
 direction most of the objects were prepared. It is contained in 
 a building near the Amphitheatre, and is fronted with two 
 glazed sheds, one coutaining the body, the other the ske- 
 leton of a whale. Other whales are exhibited in the court, 
 one of which {Physeter macrocephalus) is 56 feet long. The 
 skeleton in the centre is that of a common whale, beside which 
 there are models, executed in plaster, of the head of the 
 rorqual, or whale of the Cape, and of the body of a Southern 
 whale. The 1st room on the ground floor to the right is de- 
 voted to skeletons of various marine animals, with a male 
 morse, brought by Capt. Parry from the polar regions. 
 In the next room are skeletons of the human species from 
 all quarters of the globe, including mummies, dwarfs, 
 and especially that of the dwarf Bebe (see p. 392), and 
 that of Soliman El Hhaleby, a learned Syrian, who assas- 
 sinated Gen. Kleber in Egypt; also a series of skulls, in which 
 the varying conformation of the head from the lower animals 
 up to man is clearly traced, some of them found in Egyptian 
 and Etruscan tombs. There is also a skull, fixed on the figure 
 of an idol, adored by the Papaos tribes. A suite of twelve 
 small rooms or cabinets upstairs contains dissections of birds, 
 fishes, and reptiles, besides specimens of the human body. In 
 the first room is a collection of skulls of different animals, in- 
 cluding those of the gorilla and chimpanzee ; in the 2d we per- 
 ceive monstrous formations of various species. The 3d con- 
 tains complete skeletons of mammalia, including those of the 
 gorilla and other species of monkeys. A glass case con- 
 tains the complete anatomy of the ostrich. The 4th con- 
 tains skeletons of birds ; the 5th and 6th those of crocodiles, 
 fishes, tortoises, and reptiles. Over the cases are skeletons of 
 the boa constrictor, a shark, and a sword-fish; and jaws of 
 several species of sharks, the ray, &c., and on the tables the 
 dried larynx and hyoid bones of birds and quadrupeds. In the 
 7th are the viscera of the chicken, executed in wax. In the 
 8th is a cast of the human body without the skin, the muscles 
 painted to imitate nature, and another of a chimpanzee, pre- 
 pared in a like manner. The cases on one side exliibit small 
 figures in wax of human arms and legs. On the other side 
 are limbs of quadrupeds ; in the remaining cases dissected 
 muscles of several animals kept in alcohol. In the 9th, in a 
 large glass case, is a model in wax presenting to view the vis- 
 cera of a child ; and on the table opposite we see various 
 heads, also in wax, displaying the lymphatic and nervous 
 
JARDIN DBS PLANTES. 433 
 
 systems. The loth contains the organs of circulation, and those 
 of the different secretions ; aseriesof hearts of mammalia, reptiles, 
 and fishes ; also some injected preparations and very delicate 
 foetal ones of viviparous and oviparous animals; in the 11th 
 preparations of different orders of mollusks, articulated ani- 
 mals, and zoophytes, and preparations of shell fish in wax. 
 The 12th room contains Dr. Gall’s valuable collection of skulls 
 and casts of distinguished and notorious characters. Here 
 commences a new and interesting collection, called the 
 Cabinet of Anthropology —U occupies a suite of ten rooms 
 being the whole of the remaining first floor of the buildin<^" 
 and is remarkable not only for the casts and specimens it con- 
 tains, but for a considerable collection of portraits executed 
 in water-colours for the scientific purpose of exhibiting the 
 peculiarities of the features of each race. It comprises Arabs 
 Mongolians, Chinese, Hottentots, 8cc., in most cases with the 
 names of the individuals, their age, and the specification of the 
 rank they hold as specimens of their race. These portraits 
 are framed, and adorn tlm walls of all the rooms. In the cen- 
 tre of the first room we see a perfect human skeleton in a glass 
 case, and in the presses around busts of remarkable specimens 
 of the races of Algeria, besides heads and skulls. The centre 
 of the second room is occupied by a glass case containino- the 
 whole vascular system of an Ethiopian subject, displayed ”with 
 the most elaborate nicety, two bronze busts of Ethiopians 
 copies from nature, and exquisitely executed by M. Cordier 
 in 1848, will attract peculiar attention ; in the presses there 
 are skeletons of negroes, a mummy, complete casts of Ethio- 
 pians, Red Indians, &c. In the 3d room we find a collection 
 of skeletons and portraits of various races, and a fossil skeleton 
 of a Gallic woman. This series is continued in the 4 th room 
 which also contains two mummies and a series of heads all 
 casts from the living subject. The 5th contains the detailed 
 anatomy of the Ethiopian and Caucasian races, and some pho- 
 tographs, completing the series of subjects in water-colours 
 These are continued in the cth and following rooms. In the 
 7 th there is a group representing the last Mohicans, a man and 
 a woman. In the 8th there are Peruvian mummies, in a 
 sitting, or rather a crouching posture, besides Mongolian busts 
 and heads. In the 9lh, the scries is continued ; it also con- 
 tains an Esc[uimaux canoe ; and here we would recommend 
 those endowed with the bump of amativeness not to dwell too 
 long on the charms of a Boshman lady, which grace the 
 glass-case in the centre. There are also here two bronze 
 busts of a Chinese man and woman, by Cordier. The loth 
 room contains skulls, and various casts taken during Prince 
 
 28 
 
434 EIGHTEENTH WALK. 
 
 Napoleon’s expedition to Lapland and Greenland. A long 
 passage, hung with specimens of bones, leads us l)ack to 
 the Cabinet of Comparative Anatomy ; and, travers- 
 ing the suite already seen, we reach the staiicase in 
 the 12th room, on descending which we see the fossil re- 
 mains of the plesiosauri, found at Lyme Regis and at Glaston- 
 bury, and other extinct species. There are many skeletons of : 
 caniois, antelopes, mules, tapirs, giraffes, rhinoceroses, hippo- 
 potami, elephants, &c. Tlie number of specimens in this section 
 exceeds 15,000. A valuable addition to this museum has 
 recently been made by M. Bocourt, who had been sent on a 
 scientihc mission to Siam. The fauna of that country 
 having hitherto been almost entirely neglected, M. Bocourt 
 has been enabled to add 15 new species of various genera 
 to the science of natural history. A catalogue may be had 
 on the spot. 
 
 Gallery of Zoology —Tins, building, which once bore the 
 name of Cabinet of Natural History, is 390 feet in length, and 
 skirts the rue St. Victor. It has two stories, besides the gi’ound- 
 floor, and is of plain architecture. Considerable additions 
 are daily made to this matchless gallery. The zoological col- 
 lections are classed according to the system of Baron Cuvier. 
 Ascending to the first story, we find in the first loom a beau- 
 tiful statue by Duparty, representing Vivying Nature. The 
 presses along the walls contain (juadrupeds of the dog, goat, 
 and lama species. The second room is devoted to zoophytes, 
 sponges, nautili, and shells ; the third comprises a large col- 
 lection of apes, including a gorilla in a large glass case in the 
 centre ; the fourth, Crustacea, comprchi-nding brachyurcs. 
 anomures, macroures, stomapodes, amphipodes, and xypno- 
 siires. The fifth room contains a very complete collection of 
 upwards of 2,000 reptiles, comprising more than 500 species 
 divided into four orders, viz., chelonians or tortoises, sau- 
 rians or lizards, ojihidians or serpents, and batrachians oi 
 frogs, toads, &c. Most of the smaller reptiles, and some of 
 the larger species, arc preserved in spirits. The sixth and 
 seventh rooms are filled with a complete collection of fislies, 
 aquatic birds and snakes ; some stulTed, others preserved m 
 spirits ; the largest specimens arc suspended from the ceiling. 
 The seventh room moreover contains a marble statue of 
 Buffon, by Pajou. Returning to the sixth, a staircase to the 
 right leads to the ground floor, xvhere there is a gallery coii- 
 taming zoophytes and other specimens preserved in spirits ; 
 besides a room with mammalia of the largest class, such as 
 elephants, hippopotami, &c. We may now ascend the same 
 staircase to the second floor, where we find ourselves in the 
 
JARDIN DBS PLANTES. 435 
 
 midst of a largo arched gallery, filled with the conipletest col- 
 lection of birds in Europe, comprising upwards of 10 000 
 specimens helonging to 2,500 different genera. Over the 
 glass cases are busts of Lacepede, Adanson, Dauhenton and 
 other celebrated naturalists ; in tlie centre is the marble bust 
 of Guy de la Brosse, the founder of the Museum ; and not far 
 from this a fine clock by Robin, marking both mean and solar 
 time. In another room to the left we find camels, buffaloes 
 and other large mammalia. The tallest of the three giraffes 
 that are here had lived 17 %, years in the Menagerie; it died 
 in 1849. At the other end of the gallery there are two more 
 rooms, containing seals, apes, armadilloes, bears, ferrets, por- 
 cupines, musk-rats, foxes, jackals, wolves, and hyenas'- the 
 glass cases in the centre and those of the gallery contain a 
 complete collection of polypterous and apterous insects be- 
 sides nests of termites, hornols, and wasps ; specimens of the 
 devastations effected in wood by different species of worms 
 and a numei-ous collection of shells, mollusks, zoophytes' 
 echini, 8cc. The whole number of mammalia is calculatetl 
 at 2 , 000 , comprising nearly 500 species ; the collection of 
 fishes consists of about 5,000 specimens, comprising neaidy 
 2,500 species; of the tubipores, madrepores, millepores co- 
 rallines, and sponges, the variety is very complete. 'The 
 total number of specimens is estimated at upwards of 
 200 , 000 , so systematically and progressively arranged that 
 beginning with the lowest manifestations of animal oro-anisation 
 (as in the sponge and other zoophytes), we can follow the 
 chain of nature link by link, till it arrives at its highest per- 
 fection in man. 
 
 Mineralogtcal and Geological Museum . — The splendid col- 
 lection of minerals and geological specimens is arranged in a 
 building erected for this purpose in the south-eastern corner 
 of the garden. It consists of two stories, and is 54o feet lon»- 
 by 40 wide, and 30 high. It is divided into three comparl- 
 ments by two Doric pavilions, surmounted by pediments sculp- 
 tured with appropriate emblems, by Lescorne. In the centre 
 are two statues, representing Geology and Mathematics. The 
 entrance nearest to the zoological gallery leads to an anteroom 
 giving access to an amphitheatre for lectures in front, to the 
 library on the right, and to the mineralogical collection 
 on the left. This is contained in a long room, lighted from 
 above, with 30 columns, which, though Doric, have their 
 friezes adorned with Corinthian leaves. It has elevated gal- 
 leries on either side, under which are laboratories and rooms 
 for the professors and attendants. In the centre of the hall 
 is a marble statue of the illustrious Cuvier, in the costume cf 
 
436 EIGHTEENTH WAtK* 
 
 Councillor of the University, by David d’Angers, Witli tlie 
 proudest of all inscriptions, the names of his immortal works. 
 Opposite we see that of Haiiy, in a sitting posture, also in 
 marble, by Brion. Between these statues will be seen some 
 valuable marble tables of Florentine Mosaic. The walls at 
 both ends of this room are adorned with paintings by Be- 
 mond, representing, at the entrance, the cascade of the Staub- 
 bach (Berne), tlie alluvial soil of the valley of the Aar, 
 near Meyringen (Berne), and the Hecla and Geysers, as seen 
 in Iceland by Prince Napoleon in 1856 ; and at the opposite 
 extremity, the eruption of Stromboli, the glaciers of Rosen- 
 laui (Berne), the eruption of Vesuvius in 1822, and the ba- 
 saltic lava of the cascade of Quereil (Puy-de-D6me). Here the 
 visitor will also perceive, on a stand, a large lump of me- 
 teoric iron, weighing 1304 lb., found in the department of 
 the Var. Horizontal glass cases in the centre contain minerals 
 and earths scientifically classed, and in drawers are similar sup- 
 plemental specimens. In front of the galleries on the ground- 
 floor are ranged vertical glass cases, containing minerals classed 
 according to their chemical composition ; the specimens used to 
 illustrate the lectures of the professors are placed in horizontal 
 ones ; underneath are drawers with supplemental specimens. 
 In front of the bases of the pillars are vertical cases, with the 
 minerals, &c., used in arts and manufactures. The galleries 
 contain, at the end nearest the entrance, all the known rocks 
 and earths arranged geologically ; at the other, the fossils 
 found in the various geological formations. There are many 
 specimens here, brought over by Prince Napoleon from his 
 late Arctic expedition (1). The mineralogical collection is di- 
 vided into four classes; 1, simple substances; 2, alkaline 
 salts ; 3, alkaline and other earths ; 4, metals. Of the first, 
 the most interesting are the native sulphur and a series of 
 diamonds and other gems, rough and cut, solid and liquid bi- 
 tumen and yellow amber. Of the latter, several pieces con- 
 tain insects enveloped by the amber when in its liquid state, 
 without injuring their form. Several of the gems, par- 
 ticularly the yellow, red, and white topazes, are remarkably 
 beautiful. The second class of minerals, namely, that of alka- 
 line salts, comprises fine specimens of rock-salt, the phosphate, 
 fluate, nitrate, and arseniate of lime, the borate of soda, and 
 the alkaline fluate of alumina. The third class comprises, 
 among other specimens, those of Icelandic calcareous spar, 
 metastaltic crystals from Derbyshire, hyaline quartz, the dark- 
 green and red agates, jasper, chalcedony, felspar, tourmaline, 
 
 (i) Too much prai.se cannot be yiven to the Professors, under 
 whose superintendence this division of the museum is placed^ 
 
JARDIN DBS PLANTES. ' 437j 
 
 lapis lazuli, some large slabs of mica, &c. In the class of 
 metallic substances we find specimens of gold and silver from 
 Peru, Mexico, California, and Australia, among which should 
 he noticed a piece of massive gold from Peru, weighing 16'A 
 ounces ; a fine specimen of native silver from Mexico, and 
 the different combinations of silver with sulphur and anti- 
 mony, and the carbonic and muriatic acids. Next come 
 specimens of platina, ores of quicksilver ; lead in every com- 
 bination of colour ; the different varieties of copper, and 
 a large collection of aeroliths, chiefly collected in France ; 
 then the oxides and other natural combinations of ar- 
 senic, manganese, antimony, uranium, molybdenum, tita- 
 nium, tunpsteii, tellarium, chromium, &c. The part most 
 interesting to the geologist is the complete series of strata, 
 from the primary rocks to the latest alluvial deposits ; 
 the impressions of birds’ claws, worms, and reptiles, numerous 
 fossil remains, pudding-stones and agglomerations of bones 
 belonging to drift deposits, 6cc. The specimens of the ter- 
 tiary formations are very fine, and attest the zeal of the great 
 Cuvier, to whom the whole of this part of the museum may be 
 said to owe its existence. Among various objects belonging 
 to this collection are a superb vase of the brecciated porphyry 
 of the Vosges, two large groups of crystals of colourless quartz ; 
 several cups of agate, chalcedony, lapis lazuli, &c. The im- 
 portance of this division of the institution was greatly ing 
 creased in 1825 by a donation from Charles X. of a finemine- 
 ralogical collection purchased by the civil list for 300,000 fr. ; 
 and continual additions by gift or purchase are being made to 
 it. The directors of the museum have exchanged models ac- 
 curately coloured, of the more important or rarer fossils, with 
 foreign institutions for other specimens. The number of mi- • 
 nei-alogical and geological specimens exceeds 60,000. 
 
 Botanical Gallery . — From the mineralogical museum we 
 enter an anteroom, containing a fine marble statue of Jussieu, 
 by Heral. The walls around display a number of gigantic 
 trunks of palm-trees and other monocotyledons. The gal- 
 lery adjoining contains, in glass presses lining the walls, 
 a very extensive collection of woods of all kinds, with speci- 
 mens of the epidermis, the hark, the roots, 8cc., of many of 
 the larger kinds of trees and plants. A numerous and very 
 valuable series of fruits, 8cc., preserved in spirits of wine, con- 
 stitutes one of the subdivisions, and also two cabinets of the 
 fungus family in wax, presented to the museum by the Em- 
 peror of Austria and by Charles X. The latter, executed by 
 De Pinson, is valued at 20,000 fr. A collection of foreign 
 fruits, in wax and plaster, is also entitled to attention. The 
 
438 EIGHTEENTH WALK. 
 
 collection of drugs of the Garden of Plants, with considerable 
 additions, is kept in this room, and a very interesting collec- 
 tion of fossil plants and dendrites from the various coal forma- 
 tions has been arranged by M. Ad. Brongniart. The total num- 
 ber of dried plants exceeds 350,000 ; and of woods, fruits, 
 and grains, more than 4,500. At the end is a large round 
 table, 2 metres 20 centimetres, or nearly 7 feet in diameter, 
 the top of which, made of tlie wood of the Baobab, is all of 
 one piece. The veins of the wood show that the trunk from 
 which it was cut must have been at least double, or 14 feet in 
 diameter ! In the rooms up-stairs, not open to the public, 
 is a general herbal, consisting of about 50,000 species. It 
 was founded by Vaillant, and gradually augmented by Com- 
 merson, Dambey, Mace, Poiteau, Lcschenault, &c. There 
 are also separate herl)als of New Holland, Cayenne, the An- 
 tilles, the Cape, India, Egy[)t, &c., herbals which served as 
 models for printed works, such as that of Michaux ; that of the 
 Plants of France, by M. de Candolle; that of M. de Humboldt, 
 of Bernard, Antoine and Adrien de .Tussieu, of Tournefort 
 (this last arranged and ticketed by his own hand', and that of 
 Gundelsheimer. There is also a laboratory here ; but this and 
 the herbals are only open to students. 
 
 The Ca!)inet of Comparative Anatomy, and the Zoological, 
 Mineralogical, and Botanical galleries arc open to the public 
 on Sundays, from 1 to 5 ; on Tuesdays, and Thursdays from 
 2 to 5 ; and to persons with tickets, to be obtained on the 
 spot from the office of the Administration, also on Tuesdays, 
 Thursdays, and Saturdays, from 11 to 2 . 
 
 Library. — 'Hie library, which lies contiguous to a house 
 once inhaliited byBulfon, is composed of works on natural his- 
 ,tory. Opposite the entrance is a bust of Fourcroy. Most of 
 its printed works are to be met with in every public library, 
 but the manuscripts, accompanied with original designs, and 
 the magnificent collection of paintings of fruit and flowers 
 upon vellum, form an unrivalled collection. It was com- 
 menced in 1635, and now fills 90 portfolios, with upwards 
 of 6,000 drawings, estimated at two millions of francs. The 
 library contains 30,000 volumes and 15,000 pamphlets. — 
 Open daily to the public, Sundays excepted, from 10 to 3. 
 Vacations from September 1 to October 1 , and for a for tnight 
 after Easter. 
 
 It is almost needless to add that the Musee dTIistoire Natu- 
 relle stands at the head of all institutions of the kind not only 
 in France but in Europe. Its most valuable part is perhaips the 
 Cabinet of Comparative Anatomy, arranged by Cuvier; but the 
 Cabinet of Natmal History, if not so precious, is more •exten- 
 
PONT d’AUSTEULIIT. 439 
 
 sive. Many Avceks would be requisite to inspect this immense 
 museum in detail, and much scientific knowledge to duly 
 appreciate its contents. As naturalists, the professors of this 
 institution are highly distinguished, and worthy to teach in 
 the schools founded by the illustrious Bufl'on and Cuvier. (1) 
 
 The central gate of the Jardin des Plantes, towards the river, 
 opens upon the 
 
 Peace Walhuhekt, (2) forming a semicircle at the entrance 
 of the Jardin des Plantes. The visitor will remark the fine 
 extent of quays and the 
 
 Pont d’Aesterlitz. — This was at first an iron-bridge, the 
 second constructed in Paris, begun in 1801, and finished in 
 1 807 , by Bcaupre 6c Lamande, at a cost of 3,000,000 fr. It re- 
 ceived its name in commemoration of the victory gained by 
 the French, Dec. 2, 1805, over the lUissians and Austrians. 
 On the second occupation by the allied araiies, the name was 
 changed to Pont du Roi, and afterwards to Pont du Jardin des 
 Plantes, but it resumed its original name in 1830. In 1834 
 it was discovered to be in a very dangerous state, and its recon- 
 struction of stone was accomplished in the short space of six 
 inonths, at a cost of 1 , 000,000 fr. It now consists of five 
 arches, with massive cast-iron railings along the foot-paths. At 
 its opposite end is the Boulevard Mazas (see p. 27 9). 
 
 A fruit-market, called the Mail, is held on the wharf of 
 the Quai St. Bernard. The quantity of fruit brought hither 
 by water for sale is immense. 
 
 A few steps eastward, beyond the Boulevard de I’Hopital, 
 is the rue de la Gare, where we see the terminus of the 
 
 Bordeaux, Orleans and Gorbeil Railways,— a low plain 
 building, with a court 435 feet long by 81 in breadth. The prin- 
 cipal entrance is by a projecting body, crowned with an attic, 
 
 (i) There was, Before the revolution of 1848 , some intention 
 of Boring an artesian well in the Jardin des Plantes, to the depth 
 of ahout 3,000 feet, that at Crenelle being i, 700 . According to 
 the calculations of MM, Ai-ago and Walferdin, founded on ex- 
 periments made at the latter place, it was estimated that the 
 temperature of water from such a depth would range from sn 
 to 104 Palirenheit, with which the hot-houses of the Jardin des 
 Plantes and Menagerie, and even the wards and liaths of the 
 neiglihouring hospitals, might he warmed and supplied. 
 
 (arrhts name is owing to the following circumstance At 
 the Baltic of Austcrlilz, orders had Been given not to retard 
 the evolutions of the troops By carrying otf the wounded. 
 During the action, General Walhuherl had hqlh his legs shot 
 away ; and on some soldiers hastening to his assistance, he 
 drove them off w'ith his sabre, exclaiming: “^No attention to 
 the wounded! March on:” 
 
440 EIGHTEENTH WALK. 
 
 having three circular arches in front, 9 feet wide by 18 in 
 height, the only portion of the edifice Avhich has any preten- 
 sion to architectural ornament. The administration occupies 
 a building fronting the Boulevard de I’llopital. 
 
 Continuing along this Boulevard, wc arrive at an open 
 space to our left planted with trees, in front of which is the 
 
 Hospice de la Vieillesse (female), or la SalpEtriere. — 
 Tlie civil war under Louis XIV. had drawn an immense nmnher 
 of poor to Paris, and in 1056 the establishment of a general 
 hospital for them was ordained. Extensive buildings, occupied 
 as a saltpetre-manufactory, were granted, and M. Bruant 
 charged to make the necessary alterations. This Hospital, con- 
 sisting of no less than 45 different buildings, which occupy a 
 space of 32,542 sejuare metres, is 1080 feet in length. The 
 superficies of the pavement in it are 30,500 metres ; of its 
 roofs, 63,130, audit has 4,682 windows. One of the oldest 
 parts of the hospital is a wing constructed by Cardinal Maza- 
 rin, at an expense of 300,000 livres. A Doric gateway leads 
 to a court, which serves as a promenade. The principal front 
 to the northwest is above 600 feet in length, and has four pro- 
 jecting pavilions. In the centre is a vestibule fronted by three 
 arches, leading to the church, the dome of which covers a 
 circular space of 90 feet in diameter. The nave and tran- 
 septs intersect each other in a large octagonal space, into 
 which four large chapels, Jilso octagonal, open. The high 
 altar is in the centre. There are two gateways, one of which, 
 belonging to the wing built by Cardinal Mazarin, is named 
 after him, and hears in the tympanum his arms supported by 
 two figures in bas-relief. In 1662, from 9,ooo to 10,000 
 paupers were admitted here. The hospital receives, 1st, the 
 reposantes, women who have been in its service thirty years, 
 and who are upwards of sixty years of age. 2d, indigent 
 old women of upwards of seventy, affected with incurable 
 maladies. 3d, Insane and epileptic females. The number of 
 beds is 5,204, and not fewer than 484 persons are employed 
 in the hospital in different capacities. It is always full. 
 The lunatics, of whom about three-fifths are dangerously mad, 
 are kept in separate infirmaries, and treated with the greatest 
 care. Sewing is the chief employment: 48,000 military 
 sacks can he completed here in one month. The harmless are 
 allowed to amuse themselves in the occupations they fancy, 
 especially in gardening, the salutary effect of which is con- 
 ducive to their recovery. There is a small market within 
 the walls of this establishment, under the control of the 
 administration. The linen of all the hospitals is washed here, 
 comprising about 3,600,000 articles a year (see p. 142). 
 
441 
 
 MARCHE ADX CHEVAUX. 
 
 Strangers are admitted. An attendant (usually a female) 
 accompanies them round ; a small gratuity is expected. 
 
 Crossing the Boulevard, we find, nearly opposite to this 
 hospice, the new Church of 
 
 St. Marcel, decorated in the Byzantine style, but other- 
 wise uninteresting. 
 
 Returning a few steps, the visitor may enter the 
 
 Marche aux Chevaux. — The horse-market was originally 
 established on the Boulevard des Capucines, in 1604, by Hen- 
 ry IV., and transferred hither in 1642. In 1818 it was planted, 
 and the ground, comprising 17,000 square metres, formed 
 into avenuesfor exercising horses. In themiddleare two marble 
 fountains with lamp-posts ; the avenues are skirted by stalls, 
 and on one side is an essai, or artificial hill, with a steep as- 
 cent and descent, for trying the strength, 8cc. , of draught-horses 
 previous to purchase, which is done by tackling them to a cart 
 with the wheels clogged. The market is held on Wednesdays 
 and Saturdays, from 12 till 4 in winter, and from 3 to 7 
 in summer. Few horses but those for ordinary purposes are 
 sold here. The number generally on sale varies from 600 to 
 800. Mules and asses are also sold here. The police regula- 
 tions tend to diminish roguery here if possible. 
 
 On the same spot is held the Marche aux Chiens, or dog- 
 market, every Sunday from twelve till two. 
 
 At the opposite extremity of this market we find the rue du 
 Marche auxChevaux. Here, to our left, we see, at No. 15, the 
 beer-brewery ofM. Dumesnil, whose cellars form part of the 
 ancient quarries from which Paris was built, and are a con- 
 tinuation of tbe Catacombs. A solid winding staircase of 10 
 feet diameter and 84 steps leads down to them; the roof of the 
 cellar, which is flat, is supported by piers in masonry 6 feet 
 high ; the ensemble forms a vast subterranean labyrinth. To 
 visit them application must be made at the counting-house. 
 Ladies are advised not to try the experiment. 
 
442 
 
 KINETEEMU WALK. 
 
 ITIITSTSZITTH WALZ. 
 
 Having thus far completed the description of Paris as il was 
 ])efore its extension to the fortifications on the 1st of January, 
 
 1 860, lliis and the foUovving walk will comprise a shortnotice 
 of the communes annexed to the capital from that date. The 
 stranger tlierefore is here supposed to start from the Pont de 
 Bercy (seep. 280\ following the exterior Boulevards on the 
 left or southern bank of the Seine, in a westwardly direction, 
 exchanging his walk for a drive, as inclination or weariness 
 may dictate. Although no “ cloud-capt towers and gorgeous 
 palaces” will meet the eye, yet the amateur pedestrian or 
 artist will, in this excursion, derive no small enjoyment both 
 from the contrast wiiich these districts present to tlie centi'e of 
 the capital, and from the curious medley which will meet 
 his eye of hovels and cheeiTul habitations, ever and anon en- 
 livened by some new view' of old Paris, unrecorded by the 
 photographer, or else by patches of green, clusters of trees, 
 or some extensive factory bursting suddenly into view, not 
 to mention many a Flemish tableau with which the markets 
 or places of popular amusement afforded by the exterior 
 Boulevards abound (see p. 48c). 
 
 The portion of the 13th arrondissement which lies to the 
 left of the Boulevard de la Gare, was the commune of 
 
 IvRY, comprising the subdivisions of Lx Gaue, near the 
 river, and Austehlitz, w'est of the latter. It contains the 
 Hospice des Incurables (hommes) (see p. 121 and many ma- 
 nufactories interesting to the commercial visitor, the principal 
 being india-rubber, iron works, chemical preparations, &c. 
 
 At No. 40, in the rue dn Chevalcret, is the 
 
 Maison St. Casimir. — This small cliaritable foundation for 
 the education of the children of Polish exiles, established in 
 1840, and mainly supported by the efforts of tlie patriotic 
 Princess Czartoryska, is under the direetion of six Polish sis- 
 ters of charity, driven by persecution from their native soil. 
 Here, with that persevering patriotism which distinguishes their 
 unfortunate nation, they have created a little Poland arownd 
 them; 4 0 children learn their national language here, and receive 
 instruction at their hands. The neatness and order that pervade 
 this establishment, the iiiry and tidy dormitories, the simple 
 refectory and school-room, the small but cheerful garden with 
 its homely chapel, will interest and please the visitor, notw ith- 
 standing the melancholy recollections with which they are as- 
 
LA MMSON BLANCHE, 443 
 
 sociated. The gifts of private charity which tliis community 
 receives are applied to the relief of Polish widows or orphans. 
 
 Continuing along tlie exterior Boulevard, wo arrive at a 
 point where the rue Moufl'etard and the Boulevard de ITlopital 
 meet. Mere we see, close to the corner of the latter, the 
 
 Abattoiu de ViLLEJuir, a counterpart of that described at 
 page 2 7G, hut much smaller. To the left, on the exterior 
 Boulevard, is the 
 
 Maiiue I)U Treizieme Arrondissement, only remarkable 
 for being established in one of the octroi buildings of the old 
 harriers (see p. 27 8n.) Most of the others were of a similar 
 design. Here commenced the suburb of 
 
 La Maison Blanche, which possesses a melancholy in- 
 terest from the murder of General Brea in .lime, 1848. This 
 crime was committed at No. CG, rue de la Maison Blanche, 
 where a church, in the Gothic style, has now been erected. The 
 altar stands on the very spot where the General fell, and the 
 church is dedicated to St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of 
 the unfortunate victim. (1) The recess of the choir, painted 
 in fresco, represents the Trinity. 
 
 The Boulevard des Gobelins skirts the old commune of La 
 GlaciiHie, a section of Gentilly. Its only object of interest 
 was the Ferme Ste. Anne, a model farm attached to the lunatic 
 asylum of Bicetre (sec p. 49G), for the benefit of its patients, 
 hut now sold to the State for military purposes. The 14th ar- 
 roudissement begins here, comprising the old commune of 
 
 (i) On June 21, i 848 , Gen. Brda, who commanded the troops 
 on tl)e side of the rue Mouffetard, had succeeded in taking all 
 Hie barricades of that street, except tliat of tlie Harrifere de Fon- 
 tainebleau, whicli was Ihe most formidable. Gen. Brea, to 
 put a stop to bloodshed, advanced in company with another 
 olTicer, Capt. Mangin, in order to parley witli Ihe insurgents 
 and induce them to surrender. They invited him to alight 
 and come amongst them, that they might hear him belter. 
 Suspecting no treachery, the general did so; but no sooner 
 had he and his companion crossed the barricade, than they 
 were seized hy the ruftians, dragged to the above-mentioned 
 house, and summoned, on pain of death, to order the force 
 under Ids command to lay down their arms. On his refusal, 
 he was given an hour’s time to accept cither infamy or death. 
 The hour passed, and found the nohle victims ready to sacri- 
 fice their lives for tlieir personal lionour and the welfare of 
 their country. Two hours after their death, the barrier and the 
 scene of this horrid crime were occupied by tlie troops. Gen. 
 Brea was liorn in 1790; he had served in the campaigns of 
 hiilabria, Spain, Belgium, Saxony, and Russia, and had been 
 wounded at the battle of Leipzig. His murderers were tried by 
 coiirt-martial, convicted, and executed. 
 
444 NINETEENTH WALK. 
 
 Montrouge, well-known for its guingudtes (sec p. 482), 
 but possessing also other points of interest. At the extremity 
 of the rue du Faubourg St. Jacques was the Barricre d’Arcueil, 
 where the guillotine used to he erected, before 1852, for the 
 execution of capital olfenders. This is now erected, when 
 occasion requires, before the Prison de la Roquette (see p. 458). 
 Close to this spot there is also one of the entrances to the 
 
 Catacombs. — These immense receptacles for the bones of the 
 dead were devoted to that purpose in 17 84, when the Council of 
 State issued a decree for clearing the cemetery of the Innocents, 
 and for removing its contents, as well as those of otlier ceme- 
 teries, into the quarries that had existed from a remote period 
 beneath the southern part of Paris, and by which several streets 
 are undermined. (1) Some sinkings of the ground having oc- 
 curred, a committee was formed to direct such works as might be 
 required to a^ ert the danger which threatened the streets and 
 houses. On the suggestion of M. Lenoir, lieutenant-general of 
 the police, a part of the quarries under the Plaiue de Mont 
 Souris Avas allotted for this purpose ; a house, known by the 
 name of la Tombe Issoire, or Isauard, (from a famous robber 
 who once infested that neighbourhood,) on the old road to 
 Orleans, was purchased, with a piece of ground adjoining; 
 a shaft was sunk, the cavities propped up, and various portions 
 walled off for receiving the dead. The ceremony of con- 
 secrating the Catacombs was performed on the 7th of April, 
 17 86, and that same evening the removal from the cemeteries 
 began. This work was always performed at night; the bones 
 were brought in funeral cars, covered with a pall, followed by 
 priests, chanting the service of the dead, and when they reached 
 the Catacombs were shot down the shaft. The tomb-stones, 
 monuments, &c., not claimed by the families of the deceased, 
 were removed and arranged in a field belonging to the Tombe 
 Issoire; some of them were very curious, and among them 
 was the leaden coffin of Mme. de Pompadour. They were all 
 destroyed however during the revolution of 17 89, anid a guin- 
 
 (i) A map of the catacombs and quarries under Paris has 
 been drawn up by the orders of the municipal aiufhorities. 
 These excavations, which pass under the principal str&ets in the 
 fauhour^.’s St. Germain, Sf. Jacques, and St. Marcel, are three 
 millions of square metres in extent, or about pne-tynl h of the 
 tot_al superficies of Paris. The Observatory, the LTixemTBouVg, the 
 ; Pahiheoh, and blher important buildings are comidetedy under- 
 1 mined by tliem. The quantity of stone which they have fur- 
 I nished for building has been estimated at 11,000,000 cubic 
 metres. There are 932 quarries within the departnuent of the 
 Seine, producing annually materials worth 10,000,00'0 fr., find 
 employing 4,000 workmen. 
 
TthE catacombs. 445 
 
 guette erected on the spot. The Catacomhs served also as 
 convenient receptacles for those who perished in popular com- 
 motions or massacres. The bones, when first brought, were 
 heaped up without any kind of order, except that those from 
 each cemetery were kept separate. In 1810, a regular system 
 of arranging the bones was commenced under the direction of 
 M. Hericartde Thury. Openings were made in many places 
 to admit air, channels formed to carry off the water, steps were 
 constructed from the lower to the upper excavations, pillars 
 erected to support the dangerous parts of the vault, and the 
 skulls and bones built up along the walls.— For many years, 
 owing to the dangerous state of the roofs, visitors weie 
 refused admittance to the catacombs ; and even now, not - 
 withstanding the progress made in the process of consolida- 
 tion, all is not visible. Upwards of 60 staircases descend into 
 the Catacombs from different points; but the principal en- 
 trahceTf’at'tTl^rtild Barriere d’Enfer, in the garden of the wes- 
 tern octroi building. The staircase leading thence down to 
 the Catacombs consists of 90 steps; at the bottom of which a 
 series of galleries conducts to that called Povt Mahon, from 
 an old soldier, who worked here and amused his leisure hours, 
 for 5 years, in carving out of the stone a plan of Port Mahon, 
 where he had been long a prisoner. At a short distance from 
 this spot are some enormous fragments of stone nicely balanced 
 on a base hardly exceeding a point, and in this equilibrium 
 they have remained for more than two centuries. (1) About 
 200 yards further on is the vestibule of the Catacombs. It is 
 of an octagonal form. On the sides of the door are two stone 
 benches, and two pillars of the Tuscan order. Over the door 
 is the following inscription —Has ultra metas requiescunt 
 heatam spem spectantes. The vestibule opens into a long 
 gallery lined with bones from the floor to the roof. The arm, 
 leg, and thigh bones are in front, closely and regularly piled 
 together, and their uniformity is relieved by three rows of 
 skulls at equal distances. Behind these are thrown the smaller 
 bones. This gallery conducts to several rooms, resembling 
 chapels, lined with bones variously arranged ; and in the cen- 
 tre, or niches of the walls, are vases and altars, some of which 
 
 (i) Similar rocking-stones, or Logan-stones, as they are termed, 
 are frequently met with in Great Britain ; those of Twydneck in 
 Wales, and of St. Agnes’s Island (Scilly group), are celebrated. 
 Oliver Cromwell caused one at Sithney to he thrown from its 
 support, as being a heathen monument. In i824,. a Lieut. 
 Goldsmith, R.N., in a frolic, threw down a very remarkable one 
 at Castle Treryn, in Cornwall; but subsequently, asliamed of 
 what he had done, laiplaced itby the aid of powerful machinery; 
 and it still exists, as nicely balanced as before. 
 
44 0 NJNETEENTIl WAEK. 
 
 are formed of bones, and others are ornamented with skulls 
 of different sizes. These chapels contain numerons inscriptions- 
 one is called the Tombeau dc la devolution, another tlie Tom- 
 beau des Victirnes, and enclose the bodies of tliose who i)e- 
 rished either in the early period of the revolution of 1789, or in 
 the massacres of the 2 d and .Jd Septcml)er. On a large stone piilar 
 is the inscription Memento, quia pid vis es; and on another are 
 sentences taken from the work of Thomas a Kempis, “ The 
 Imitation of Ghiist, Here is a fountain also, in which some 
 gold fish were put, and in which they lived but did not 
 spawn. The spring was discovered by the workmen ; the basin 
 was made for their use, and a subterranean aqueduct carries 
 off the water. M. Hericart de Thury named it la Source d’Ou- 
 but it is now called Fontaine de la Samar itaine, from 
 an inscription containing the words of Christ to the Samaritan 
 woman. A faint cadaverous smell is perceived, but not to a 
 disagreeable or dangerous degree. The various galleries, form- 
 ing a most intricate labyrinth, have now been so altered as 
 generally to correspond exactly with most of the principal 
 streets on the surface. Two cabinets have been formed in 
 the Catacombs by M. Hericart dc Thurv. One is a mincralo- 
 gical collection of specimens of all tlie strata of the quar- 
 ries ; and the other is a pathological assemblage of diseased 
 bones, scientifically arranged. There is likewise a table, on 
 which are exposed the skulls most remarkable either for their 
 formation or the marks of disease which they bear. It is cal- 
 culated that this vast charnel-house contains the remains of at 
 least 3,000,000 of liumai^beiiigs (1). It is visible twice 
 a month to persons provided with tickets obtainable by 
 writing to Monsieur le Frefet de la Seine, d V H6tel de 
 Ville. 
 
 Near the rue d’Enfer is the Sceaux Railway terminus (see 
 p. 547), and, a short way up the Route d’Orleans, the Hos- 
 jnce de la UochefoncanU (see p. 119). Continuing along 
 the exterior Boulevard, we reach the 
 
 CiMETiERE DU IMont-Parnasse. — This cemetery, opened in 
 1824, is situated in the Plaine de Mont Rouge, now enclosed 
 Within Paris. Its extent was formerly about 30 acres, but 
 it at present contains upwards of 148, skirting the Boulevard 
 de Montrouge. The old enclosure is a parallelogram, 
 skiited by lateral avenues, and two principal ones crossing 
 each other at a rotunda in tiie centre. Several tributary walks 
 lun parallel respectively to these. The fii'st monument to the 
 right on entering is graced with a beautiful sitting statue of a 
 
 (t) A map of Ibe CalacoinbSjContainingmany iiilcre.stiugdefails, 
 has been published by M. E. de Eourcy, Ingenieur des Mines. 
 
^GLISE DE ST. LAMBERT. 447 
 
 young lady;, by M. Varnier. Among tiie monumenls occupy- 
 ing the ciccumference of the rotunda, the following are entitled 
 to notice ; Deseine, a celebrated statuary, who executed the 
 monument of Cardinal De Belloy in the Cathedral of Notre 
 Dame (see p. 310.); Orhla, the distinguished chemist; De 
 Villas, the founder of the hospice (see p. 381) ; Dr. Boyer, the 
 painter Guillemot, the Duchess de Gesvres, the last of the 
 family of Duguesclin. In the central avenue running from 
 east to west, we see the bust of Ottavi, a relation of 
 Napoleon I., and an eminent orator. In the western avenue 
 is the tomb of Bear-Admiral Count d’Urville, a celebrated 
 navigator, wlio in 1842, with his wife and son, fell a 
 victim to the catastrophe on the Versailles railroad. (Seep. 490.) 
 In the southern avenue will be observed the tombs of the 
 Duchess of Vallombrosa, and of De Guignes, author of the 
 Chinese dictionary compiled by order of Napoleon I. The ave- 
 nue to the east contains the tomb of Boulay do la Meurthe, one 
 of the Council of 500, highly esteemed by Napoleon, and in 
 the secondary path right opposite, to our left, is the monu- 
 ment of the Grecian traveller De Pouquevillc. In this 
 cemetery are also the burial-grounds of the hospitals. In 
 the south-western compartment was the grave of Pepin, exe- 
 cuted with Fieschi and Morey in 1835 for a conspiracy against 
 the life of Louis Philippe ; his accomplices also were buried 
 here, as well as Alibaud, executed for a similar attempt in 
 1836, but their graves are no longer distinguishable. The burial 
 place of common criminals is in a separate ground adjoining. 
 
 The Versailles railway crosses the Boulevard a few steps 
 higher up. The two heavy bossaged buildings close by were 
 the octroi offices of the old Ihirrirre du itlaino. Continuing 
 along the Boulevard, a sharp turn brings us in sight of another 
 couple of these strange edilices, with uncouth bossages quite 
 out of keeping with their insignificant size. To our right, at 
 the corner of the rue dcs Fourneaux, is the 
 
 Abattoir des Fourneaux, consisting of five buildings, ar- 
 ranged in the same way as those already seen, but solely re- 
 served for the slaughter of pigs. The 15th arrondissement 
 commences here with the commune of 
 
 VAur.mAUi) — a large manufacturing quarter. If the visitor 
 have a predilection for architecture, he may strike into the 
 Grande Rue, the first to his left, which willleadhimto the new 
 Uglisf. de St. Lambert, an edifice in the Saxon style, built 
 at a cost of 500,000 fr. It is a Latin cross, approached by 
 steps flanked with a foiled parapet on each side. The porch 
 is situated under a sipiare tower in front, surmounted with a 
 pyramidal steeple. The interior consists of a nave and two 
 
448 TWENTIETH WALK. 
 
 aisles, with arched ceilings ; a mullioned triforium gallery 
 runs all round ; the clerestory windows are small and without 
 tracery. The two lateral chapels alone, flanking the en- 
 trance, are decorated in the Byzantine style ; that to the left is 
 painted in coinpartments by Ronjat, with an Annunciation 
 and Prayers for the Dead, besides angels in the ceiling. The 
 rest of the church is bare, the only canvass pictures here 
 are, in the right transept, a Resurrection and a St. Nicholas ; 
 in the left transept, an Annunciation. 
 
 Returning to the exterior Boulevard, we arrive at 
 
 Grenelle — A commune contiguous to the Seine, where it 
 possesses a qare, or port for boats, with a bridge at one end, 
 communicating with Auteuil (see p. 189.) Not far from this 
 bridge is the important manufactory of Javel, for soap and 
 chemical preparations, established in i77 6. 
 
 TWEITTIETH WALK. 
 
 All that there is remarkable in the icth and part of the 17 th 
 arrondissements, having already been mentioned elsewhere 
 (see pp, 189, t9i)), this walk, comprising the northern com- 
 munes annexed to Paris, may commence with the latter part 
 of the 17th aiTondissement, containing 
 
 Batignolles, an independent town under the old system. 
 At No. 4 8, on the Boulevard des Batignolles, there is a Chapel 
 for the Calvinist persuasion. By the rue Puteaux, we enter' 
 the rue des Dames, which leads to the Mairie of the 17th ar- 
 rondissement, a handsome building, flanked by two neat com- 
 munal schools for boys and girls. The architect is M. Lequeux. 
 Continuing eastwards, the 18th arrondissement comprises 
 Mont.martre — deriving its name from Mons Alar/is, because 
 a temple of Mars existed on the hill in the time of the Romans. 
 It is remarkable for its numerous windmills and c/uincjiieUcs, 
 and for its fine views of Paris and the surrounding country. 
 The church, formerly belonging to the abbey of Montmartre, 
 was founded by Louis VI. in 1 100. It is still a place of pil- 
 grimage, especially in September. The quarries of Mont- 
 martre are famous for their gypsum or plaster of Paris. 
 In consequence of their insecure state, they have been 
 strengthened with masonry. The geological structure of this 
 hill is highly interesting. Near its summit 300 feet above the 
 river, there is a reservoir supplied from the Seine by a 
 steam-engine at St. Ouen. 
 
 Adjoining the exterior Boulevard is the 
 
 Cuietiere de Montmartre. — This spot having formerly 
 
Cl.METIERE DE MONTMARTRE. 44 9 
 
 been a gypsum quarry, the consequent irregularity of the 
 ground gives it a broken and picturesque appearance. It was 
 the first cemetery established after the suppression of burial 
 places in the city, and was originally named Champ du Repos. 
 The path to the right, on entering, leads to some elegant 
 tombs of Polish exiles ; in the principal avenue fronting the 
 entrance, there is a lofty stone cross, behind which rises an 
 eminence, wliere there is little to attract the eye, Here an 
 avenue branches off to the left, meeting another further on at 
 right angles. Here we see, towering above the surrounding 
 tombs, a tasteful Gothic chapel belonging to the Lavalee family ; 
 but the most prominent object to our right is a stone obelisk, 
 surmounted by a cross, erected to the memory of a Duchess de 
 Montmorency. Near it is the tomb of Prince Ernest of Saxe- 
 Cobourg, who died at Paris in 1832. Along the same avenue, 
 the following monuments deserve attention : Godard-Desma- 
 rests, Cave-Lemaitre, Baronne de Plaisance, the Duchesse 
 d’Abrantes, and those of the two celebrated performers, Nour- 
 rit, long the chief ornament of the Grand Opera, and Mile. 
 Jenny Colon, a sprightly actress and singer. Descending a 
 flight of stairs at the end of this avenue, and ascending those 
 opposite, we find a beautiful bronze monument to Mieceslaus 
 Kamienski, a Polish volunteer in the French army, who fell 
 at Magenta (June 4, 1859.) He is represented in a reclining 
 posture, after receiving his deatli wound. The statue is by 
 Franceschi, and cast in bronze by Eck and Durand ; it is the 
 finest monument in the cemetery. Further on is a tasteful 
 chapel, decorated in the Byzantine style, to the memory of 
 the Countess Potoeka. Next to this is the monument of Mar- 
 shal Lannes, Due de Montebello. Returning hence, we find to 
 our right the entrance to the Jewish cemetery, containing some 
 handsome monuments, including that of the celebrated com- 
 poser Halevy. Electricbells communicate through subterranean 
 tubes from the most distant parts of the cemetery with the 
 central office, so that the keepers may be summoned at a mo- 
 ment's notice. The English visitor will often meet with mo- 
 numental inscriptions to the memory of his countrymen. 
 
 The 19lh arrondissement, des Ihitfes C/ianino)il, comprises 
 La Chapclle St. Denis, a place where a pig-maiket is held 
 every Thursday, and cows and calves are sold on other days. 
 Here, on arriving at the spot where the llopilal Lariboisiere 
 stands (see p. 2341, the rue de la Gharbonniere to the left 
 leads to the rue d'Alger, where we see the new church of 
 
 St. Bernard, a splendid Gothic structure, designed by M, 
 Magne. An elaborate projecting porch, with crocheted pin- 
 nacles, rises in front of a gabled facade flanked with octagonal 
 
 29 
 
450 TWENTIETH WALK, 
 
 turrets, behind whicli is seen a noble spire, encircled ai half 
 its altitude by the Grown of Thorns. Flying buttresses, 
 fronted with pinnacles, complete the design on the sides. The 
 bas-reliefs over the doors of the transepts, byPerrey, represent 
 tlie Resurrection and the Crowning of the Virgin. The organ, 
 by Cavaille-Coll, is composed of 1,484 pipes. Returning to 
 the exterior Boulevard by the rue Jessaint and the Grande 
 Rue, we find, in tlie same arrondissement, 
 
 L.x ViLLETTE, divided by the Canal de I’Ourcq into two 
 parts, the western one of which is called La Grande and the 
 eastern La Petite Vilkdtc. We may follow the rue de 
 Flandre until we reach the rue de Bordeaux to our right, 
 which leads to the Place de PPfilisc. Fronting this, there is 
 the Eglise de St. Jacques et St. Christophe, with a Corinthian 
 facade. The interior is Doric ; the choir is semicircular ; its 
 cupola is painted in fresco, l)y Bremond, with the seven Car- 
 dinal Virtues ; on the lateral walls are the martyrdoms of the 
 two patron saints, and several biblical subjects by the same 
 artist on the frieze round the nave, and in the aisles. On 
 either side of this church are two neat buildings for Ecoles 
 Pi'imaires. There is also an Infant-school close by. Froiu 
 the Place de Ffiglise a Venetian bridge crosses the canal. The 
 visitor should pause aw'hile at the top to enjoy the view of the 
 vast number of barges which fill the Bassin de la Villette to 
 the south, and the arm of the canal to tlie north, which, with 
 a stone bridge somewhat higher up, is tolerably picturesque. 
 The two large buildings before him towards the port, connected 
 by an iron bridge on the third story, are an Entrepot des 
 The buildings consist of seven stories each, and each 
 story contains a fast hall, filled with every species of grain. 
 Ti'ap-doors communicate witli the canal below; the goods are 
 raised by tlie aid of a steam-engine of 12-horse power. 
 
 Proceeding further up the canal, we arrive at the new 
 
 Abattoiks of Paris, lying between the two canals de 
 rOureq and de St. Denis, the rue de Flandre, the Strasburg 
 railway, and the fortifications. The whole space thus en- 
 closed measures about 27 hectares (C7 acres), not quite one- 
 half of which, however, is as yet covered with buildings. 
 The principal entrance is in the rue de Flandre, by an elegant 
 railing, 180 metres in length, and having eleven gates. Of 
 the 04 pavilions required, only 24 are finished and in active 
 operation, having lately replaced the Abattoirs Montmartre 
 and du Roule, which were much nearer the centre of Paris. 
 Of t es;' 24, eight are reserved for stables where the cattle 
 awaiting its doom is kept ; the other sixteen are divided into 
 172 echaiidcirs, or large rooms, in which slaughtering is 
 
PARC DE CHAUMONT. 451 
 
 performed. The eleauliness which prevails throughout is ad- 
 mirable. Every echaudoir is pro\ided with a cock for water ; 
 the stone floor is scrupulously scoured every time an animal 
 has been killed, and the foul water runs off into sewers mea- 
 suring a total length of not less than eight kilometres, and in- 
 tersecting the ground in every direction. The ventilation in 
 the echaadoirs leaves nothing to be desired. At the entrance 
 to each there is a strong ring immoveably fixed in the ground. 
 Through this ring the rope is made to pass, which has been 
 previously secured to the horns of the ox to be slaughtered. 
 The rope is now drawn tight by means of a pulley, and when the 
 victim’s head has been thus forced down as much as possible, 
 it receives the death-blow with a heavy club (see p. 27 6). 
 On the opposite side of the Canal de TOureq, there is the large new 
 
 Cattle-jiarkei’, intended to replace those of Sceaux and 
 Poissy. Here the ground is covered witli enormous sheds 
 resting on cast-iron columns, in the taste of the Halles Centrales. 
 Between this cattle-market and the Abattoirs, slaughter- 
 houses for pork butchers are in course of construction. 
 
 All these different establishments, perhaps unique in Europe 
 both for their size and excellent internal arrangements, are 
 linked together by the Ghemin de Per de Geinture, from 
 which branches have been laid down to each. 
 
 Continuing along the rue de Marseille, and turning into the 
 rue de Meaux to our right, we find the rue de Puebla, a fine 
 broad street, just completed, and skirting the beautiful 
 
 Parc de Cuaumont, extending over the hilly ground 
 called Les Buttes Chaumont, which have given their name 
 to the 19th arrondissement (1). The new park, now com- 
 pletely railed in, is bordered on the east by the rues de Belle- 
 ville and de la Villette, and on the south by a new boulevard 
 which now connects the latter street with the rue de Puebla 
 which, as stated, completes the enclosure. The whole 
 ground, which comprises 25 hectares, may be taken in at one 
 glance from the elegant balustrade skirting a portion of the 
 new boulevard, and affording a splendid view of the whole 
 country around. To our right we see in a deep ravine the 
 railway round Paris jiassing through the park, where it dis- 
 appears into the tunnel. Before us we perceive the leading 
 feature of the park ; a craggy island cut out of the natural 
 rock and surrounded by a fine sheet of water. The height 
 of this solitary rock is upwards of GO feet: it ends in a peak 
 crowned with a belvidere of tasteful architecture commanding 
 
 (i) Tills ^Yas Rut a few years ago the receptacle for all the 
 nigid-soil of Paris, wliicli was here traiisfornied into (he manure 
 called poudreile. This nuisance was done away with in i850. 
 
452 TWENTIETH WALK. 
 
 an excellent view of a large portion of the metropolis, and 
 called the Temple of the Sibyl. This island is accessible on 
 one side by a stone bridge, and on another by a suspension- 
 bridge supported by rustic piers. Though rising abruptly 
 from the water to a considerable height as we have said, the 
 peak is not by far the highest point within the park, it being 
 commanded by two hills to our left, while other smaller ones 
 dot the ground here and there. In the valley there is a de- 
 lightful grotto, the interior of whicli sparkles with stalac- 
 tites and stalagmites. Further on to our left, there is a 
 carriage-road spanned by a hue wrought-iron bridge giving 
 access to the higher portions of the ground, which, we 
 need not add, is intersected in every direction by gravelled 
 paths, and planted with valuable trees and shrubs. This de- 
 lightful park was originally stone quarries, and affords a 
 surprising instance of the skill and taste which has converted 
 a barren wilderness into an oasis of verdure. Strangers 
 should not omit to visit it : the best way of getting there is 
 to take a carriage by the hour. 
 
 By the rue de Puebla we enter 
 
 Belleville, celebrated for its guinguettes. It has a new 
 reservoir containing 40,000 cubic metres of water, and a 
 fine square, tastefully laid out as a garden, and surrounded 
 by a double row of lime-trees. In the rue de Paris we find 
 the new Gothic church of 
 
 St. Jean Baptiste — consecrated in 1 859. This edifice, 
 remarkable for its elegant design, has three entrances in front, 
 separated by buttresses, and surmounted by an elegant gal- 
 lery fronted with slender columns, above which rise two 
 square lowers with lancet-shaped windows and tall stone 
 when M. Mary, a civil engineer, constructed a subterranean 
 tunnel, ten kilometres in length, llirongh which the offensive 
 matter, ainounling to 8,ooO hogsheads per day, is now conveyed 
 to the forest of Bondy by means of forcing-pumps worked by a 
 steam-engine. The cost of this contrivance is ios,ooofr. per 
 annum Just outside the present park there is a mound called 
 Montfiucon, whicli in former days was a place of execution, 
 studded with gibbets; the bodies of the criminals were left to 
 decay in a charnel house underneath. Not many years ago, 
 there were slaughter-houses here for horses : these have now 
 been transferred to a village called Les Verlus, where about 
 20,000 horses arc killed per annum. In the case of those that 
 are unfit for food, the skin is taken off, and all the rest is put 
 into iron cylinders where it is exposed to the temperature of 
 steam until all the gelatinous matter is extracted. The I'efuse 
 is used for manure. Sound horse-flesh is now allowed to be 
 sold for meat in certain butcher’s shops, on condition of its 
 being labelled as such. It costs about lo sous a lb. 
 

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CEMETERY OF PERE LA CHAISE. 453 
 
 spires. The entrances have retiring arches resting on engaged 
 columns, and their tyinpans are adorned with quaint bas- 
 reliefs by Perrey, executed in the style of the 13th century, 
 with the figures as large as the houses and taller than the 
 trees. In the way of imitation, we have seldom seen any- 
 thing more ingeniously conceived. The central bas-relief il- 
 lustrates, in compartments, the life and death of St. John the 
 Baptist. That to the left represents God commanding Isaiah 
 to prophecy the advent of Christianity, and as the prophet 
 objects that his mouth is too impure for so holy a duty, an 
 angel is sent to purify it by fire. The bas-relief to the right 
 I represents St. John the Baptist’s descent to the limbus of hell, 
 where he delivers mankind from the power of the Evil one by 
 announcing the coming of Christ. Over the entrances of the 
 transepts the bas-reliefs represent the Besurrection, and the 
 Consecration of the Church, by Cardinal Morlot. The interior 
 is cruciform, with a nave, two aisles, and side chapels ; the 
 ; design is well-conceived, but the church is otherwise bare. 
 Architects, MM. Lassus and Truchy. 
 
 Returning to the Boulevard ExtO'ieur by the rue de Paris, 
 and continuing eastward, we find in the same arrondissement 
 Menilmoxtant, where a reservoir containing 135,000 
 cubic metres of water has now been constructed, and 
 Charonne, in which the chief point of interest is the 
 Cemetery of Pere La Chaise, Boulevard de Fontarabie. — 
 This tract of ground, on the slope of a hill, situated to the 
 north-east of Paris, bore the name of Chamv I’Evdaue in the 
 eluTiesl ages Ofthe monarchy, and belonged to the Bishop 
 of Paris. In the 14th century, a wealthy grocer, named 
 Regnault, erected upon the ground a magnificent house, 
 which the people called la FoUe Regnault. After the death of 
 Regnault, this mansion was bought by a female devotee, and 
 presented to the community of the Jesuits in the rue St. Antoine. 
 Louis XIV. authorised the Jesuits to call it Mont Louis, and, 
 being much attached to Pere La Chaise, his confessor, appointed 
 him superior thereof in 17 05, wTfen Mont Louis" Became the 
 focus of Jesuitical power in France. On the suppression of 
 the order, Mont Louis was sold to pay its creditors, and was ulti- 
 mately purchased for 1 00,000 fr. by M. Frochot, prefect of the 
 Seine, to be converted into a cemetery under the direction of 
 Brongniai t. It then contained 42 acres. Winding paths were 
 forrned, a wide road was opened to where the mansion of Pere 
 La Chaise formerly stood, and cypresses and willows were 
 mingled with the shrubs and fruit-trees. The ground was con- 
 secrated i n 1 8 04 ; and on May 2 1st, of that year, the first grave 
 was made. iTs present extent is 212 acres, The beautiful 
 
4b4 
 
 TWENTIETH WALK. 
 
 situation of this spot, surrounded by A'aHeys and slojx-s, and 
 commanding an extensiA^e vievA' over a picturesque and glowing 
 landscape, makes it, particularly in summer, a favourite resort 
 , of strangers as Avell as of Parisians (1.) The number and 
 ^ costliness of its monuments, and the celebrated names it con- 
 ; tains, Avill save it from tbe fate Avith Avhich the other ceme- 
 I teries of Paris are menaced, in consequence of the extension 
 of the capital to the fortifications, and although common in- 
 terments may be discontinued here, Pere La Chaise Avill still 
 remain the burial place of the celebrated men of Paris, and of 
 those who possess family vaults here. Some of the monu- 
 ments, of large dimensions and elegant architecture, re- 
 present temples, sepulchral chapels, mausoleums, pyra- 
 mids, and obelisks ; others cippi, altars, urns, &c. ; most 
 of them are enclosed with iron railings, and adorned with 
 flowers and shrubs ; and retired seats are provided for 
 the convenience and accommodation of kindred and friends. 
 A suhterranean canal, Avhich conveyed Avater to the Maison 
 de Mont Louis, still exists, and partly furnishes a supply 
 to keep the plants and herbage in verdure. The gateway is 
 placed in a semicircular recess, and is adorned with funereal 
 ornaments, and scriptural quotations in Latin. (2). The divi- 
 sions on the right and left of the avenue opposite the en- 
 trance present nothing Avorth noticing, but a grass-plot at its 
 extremity, encompassed by a gravel Avalk, is replete Avith 
 objects of interest. To the left we see the monument of the 
 celebrated architect Visconti, a Avhite marble sarcophagus, 
 
 (1) In 1814, Avhile tlie Allies Avere approaching Paris, forini- 
 (lahle halteries AVcrc established in the cemetery of Pure La 
 Chaise, which commamls the plain extending to Vincennes. The 
 walls Avere pierced Avilh loop-holes. The pupils of the school of 
 Alfort occupied it on the 30th of March, and successfully re- 
 sisted tAvo attaclis of Russian troops detached hy General Bar- 
 clay de Tolly. On the third attach, hoAA’ever, the Russians made 
 themselves masters of the cemetery, and their possession of the 
 batteries hastened the surrender of the village of Charonne. 
 Paris having capitulated the same evening, the Russians bivou- 
 acked in the cemetery, and cutdown many of the treesfor fuel. 
 In tst.'i, while the forces of the allies surrounded Paris a second 
 time, interments Avere temporarily suspended here. 
 
 ( 2 ) The stranger will do Avell to compare tbe following de- 
 scription of tbe monuments with the annexed pdan; the arrows 
 marked in the paths Avill point out the direction he ought to 
 follOAV in order to find the most interesting monuments as they 
 occur in the description; he might otherwise lose much time in 
 fruitless search. Most of the tombs marked in the plan are 
 remarkable for their costliness, design, or execution ; others 
 have merely been put dow'n as convenient landmarks. 
 
455 
 
 CEMETERY OF PERE LA CHAISE. 
 
 with his statue in a reclining posture; in liis hand he holds 
 the plan of the New Louvre, his princii)al work. The whole 
 is surrounded with monumental parapets. Next to this is the 
 tomb of the Scidptor Dantan, remarkdhlc for its tasteful sculp- 
 ture ; then follow the Tohih's of Poinsot, the great mathemati- 
 cian, and of Alfred de Musset, the poet ; in obedience to his 
 wish, expressed iFone orinsTugitive pieces, a weeping willow, 
 brought from La Plata, has been planted in his enclosure. 
 
 In the path opposite to these, an iron railing marks the grave 
 of the illustrious Arago. The first avenue to the right con- 
 tains some handsome monuments, and leads to the Bureaux 
 cles Benseignements and de Surveillance et des Inscriptions, 
 and to the Jewish cemetery, separated from the Christian por- i 
 lion by a wall, and containing the tomb of Mile. Rach el, the J 
 celebrated actress, close to tbc entrance. Returning' lienee to ( 
 the Christian cemetery, and turning into the road to the right, 
 a path contiguous to the Dupuis and Echard vault leads to the 
 most interesting monumentin the cemetery, the tomb of Abelard 'f 
 andllcloisa, wdio died in 1142 and 1164 respectively. It con- 
 sists of a rectangular chapel of the Saxon style of the thirteenth ) 
 century, formed by M. Lenoir out of the ruins of the cele- i 
 brated abbey of the Paraclete, founded by Abelard, and of 
 which Ileloisa was the first abbess. It is 14 feet in length by 
 1 1 in breadth ; and its height is 24. An open- worked crocketed 
 pinnacle 6 feet in elevation rose out of the crucifoi’in roof, and 
 four smaller ones, exquisitely sculptured, stood between the 
 gables, but owing to their ruinous state tliese have now been 
 removed. Fourteen columns, six feet in height, with rich foli- 
 aged capitals, support trifoliate arches with open spandrils sur- 
 mounted by cornices wrought in flowers. The gables of the four 
 fi’onts arc pierced with trifoliate windows, and decorated with 
 sculptured figures, roses, and medallions of Abelard and Heloisa. 
 In this chapel is the tomb built for Abelard, by Peter the Vene- 
 rable, at the priory of St. Marcel. He is represented, in a re- 
 cumbent posture ; by his side is the statue of Ileloisa. The bas- 
 reliefs round this sarcophagus represent the fathers of the church . 
 At the fool on one side of the tomb are inscriptions relating to 
 the two lovers ; and at the corners are four others stating the 
 origin of the monument, its removal, and its erection in the 
 Musee des Monuments Francais, whence it was transported to 
 Pere La C.baisc. 
 
 Returning to the broad avenue, tlie visitor will soon arrive, 
 at the Bond Point, in the middle of which stands a beautiful 
 momimcnt erected by public subscription to the memory of 
 Casimir Pericr, Prime Minister in 1832, consisting of an 
 excellent statue of that statesman placed on a lofty and richly 
 
456 TWENTIETH WALK; 
 
 decorated pedestal and basement. The first path to the right 
 leads to a part of the cemetery in which among others is the 
 tomb of the brave but ill-fated Labedoyere. 
 
 Returning to the Rond Point, the principal road winding round 
 the foot of the hill should be followed. Behind the tomb of 
 Andrieux stands that of Laromiguiore, the illustrious professor 
 of philosophy. Next follows that of Marshal Kellermaim, 
 Due de Valmy, and towering above us, on the brow of the 
 hill, xve perceive the costly monument of Countess Demidoff, 
 resting on a vast basement of sculptured masonry, which is 
 here accessible by a double-branched flight of stairs. The 
 monument itself consists of l o Doric columns of white marble, 
 supporting an entablature, under which is a sarcophagus sur- 
 mounted by a cushion, bearing the arms and coronet of the 
 deceased. Continuing along the road, we find the tombs of 
 Mademoiselle Duchesnois, the tragic actress ; of General 
 Gouvion St. Cyr, with his statue, by David d’Angers, 
 and that of General Macdonald ; those of Count Lava- 
 lette, with a bas-relief representing his flight from prison ; 
 and of the celebrated surgeon, Dupuytren. A path to the 
 right leads to a mound commanding a delightful view over 
 Vincennes ; the best monuments here are those of Count de 
 ^ny, Cliarbonnef, i^d Salli^ny. Here also lies Scribe, the 
 distinguished dramatic author. Returning to the principal 
 avenue, the tomb that will first meet the eye is the sepul- 
 chral column of Viscount deMartignac, celebrated for his noble 
 and touching defence, in 1830 , of Prince Polignac, formerly 
 his political enemy ; and in the adjoining path to the left 
 the visitor will find himself among many of the great names of 
 France ; — Marshal Suchet, in beautiful white marble, ricbly 
 oinamented with bas-reliefs of fine execution by David d’An- 
 gers ; Marshal Lefebvre, a sarcophagus of white marble, with 
 his bust ; Marshal Massena, Prince d’Essling, a pyramid of 
 white marble, 21 feet in height, with his portrait in bas- 
 relief ; the Duke Deeres, a monument of large dimensions, on 
 which two bas-reliefs represent naval actions with the Eng- 
 lish ; and not far from these, behind the tomb of Bourke, the 
 modest tomb of the novelist, Madame Cottin, consisting of a 
 small pyramid ot white marble, and of David d’Angers, the 
 eminent sculptor, often noticed here ; a simple sarcophagus 
 on a plain basement. Next to it are tbe graves of Hue, the 
 faithful attendant of Louis XVI., and of the Abbe Sicard, di- 
 rector of the Deaf and Dumb Institution. Returning to the former 
 path, we see tlie tombs of Mai shal Davoust, Prince d’Eckmuhl, 
 a sarcophagus ol granite ; Beaumarchais, the dramatist ; and 
 ojiposite, Wins or, the originator of public gas-lightiiig : Baroq 
 
CEMETERY OF PilRE LA CHAISE. 457 
 
 Larrey, the surgeon of Napoleon L, and the splendid monument 
 in white marble of Gen. Gobert, due to the chisel of David d’An- 
 gers: the equestrian statue of the general rests on a basement 
 adorned with four spirited bas-reliefs representing passages of 
 his military career. A few steps further on is an iron railing, 
 enclosing the remains of the unfortunate Marshal Ney ; no 
 monument nor inscription marks thr place,' TJutnffiF^’trund is 
 laid out as a small garden. Following the path to the right, 
 we find the tomb of Benjamin Constant, and facing it, that of 
 General Foy, a superb monument erected by national sub- 
 scription, consisting of a sepulchre surmounted by a temple, 
 in which is seen a marble statue, by David, of the general in 
 I a Roman costume, in the act of speaking. Beranger, the 
 poet, who died July 17th, 1857, lies also here in the same tomb 
 with Manuel the orator ; further on. Admiral Bruat, killed 
 on his return from the Crimea ; Glory contemplating his 
 trophies, by Maindron. Next is Geoffroy St. Hilaire, the na- 
 tural philosopher. At the corner of a side-path, we find the 
 monument of Pradier, the great sculptor, and, on turning to the 
 right, those of Leon Faucher, a member of the National As- 
 semblies of 1848 and 1849, and afterwards aMinishir; La- 
 p lace, the great astronomer; a tomb of white marble, from 
 M^clT rises an obelisk surmounted by an urn, ornamented 
 with a star encircled by palm branches, and inscriptions al- 
 luding to his works. Molicre, a sarcophagus of stone, sup- 
 ported by four columns and surmounted by a vase ; and, 
 within the same railing. La Fontaine , a cenotaph, crowned by 
 a fox in black marble, and ornaniented with two bas-reliefs in . 
 bronze, one representing the fable of the ivolf and the stork, 1 
 and the other the wolf and the lamb; next, Moratin, the ! 
 Spanish dramatist ; Gay-Lussac, the great chemist ; the Mar- 
 quis de Clermont-Gallerande, who, on the memorable loth of 
 August, placed himself between Louis XVL and the mob, to 
 defend his sovereign ; Madame de Genlis, (a sarcophagus with 
 her bust in a medallion,) and Junot, Due d’Abrantes. 
 
 Returning hence, we shall reach one of the main avenues 
 which lead to the brow of the hill, and in front of which we 
 perceive the superb monument of M. Aguado, the great finan- 
 cier, consisting of a basement surmounledTjy a richly-sculp- 
 tured sarcophagus in white marble, executed by Ramus; at 
 the sides are two line statues, representing Benevolence and 
 the Fine Arts; two beautiful angels support his escutcheon. 
 The main avenue, right and left, is studded with monuments 
 of great taste and excellent execution. Turning eastwards, a 
 ])ath to our left leads to an avenue parallel to the former. 
 Here we may sec the tomb of the celebrated Volney (a quad- 
 
458 
 
 TWENTIETH WALK. 
 
 rangular pyramid), and numerous English names, such as 
 Admiral Sydney Smith, Lnscombe, tkc. That of the Prince of 
 Masserano is the last worthy of attention on this side. Pro- 
 ceeding westwards, we find a square enclosure reserved for 
 Mussnimans, with a small mosque in the Moorish style, de- 
 signed by Vely Pasha, the Turkish ambassador. The Queen 
 and elder Prince of Oude are interred here. Next follows, to 
 our left, a handsome mausoleum erected to the memory of 
 Mad. de Diaz Santos, daughter of the Duchess de Duras, and a 
 very lofty pyramid, erected to the memory of M. Beaujour, 
 one of the most conspicuous objects in the cemeteiy. Descend- 
 ing hence to the left, will be found the monuments of Honore 
 de Balzac, the celebrated novelist, and Casimir Delavigne, the 
 illustrious poet. In the adjoining compartment a modest black 
 cross marks the grave of Judith Frere, the lady whom Be- 
 langer immortalized in his songs under the name of Lisette. 
 Further down, near the chapel, is the tomb of De Seze, an 
 advocate, the intrepid defender of Louis XVI. (l) 
 
 The chapel of the cemetery is a plain Doric building, about 
 56 feetby28 in length and breadth, and 56 feetin height. In 
 front of it is an open grass plot, from whence the eye ranges 
 over Paris. Eastward of the chapel there is a spot devoted 
 to theatrical, musical and poetical celebrities, such as Talma, 
 Gretry, Boieldieu, Delisle, Bellini, Bubini, &c. (2) 
 
 On leaving this cemetery, a few steps along the rue de la 
 Roquettc before us, the upper end of which is filled with shops 
 of dealers in tombs and funeral garlands, bring us to the 
 Dilpot f/e.9 Condanmes and Die late prison for juvenile of- 
 fenders (see pp. 7 9, 80.) In front of these prisons the guil- 
 lotine (3) is erected whenever an execution takes place. ' 
 
 (1) Since the opening of this cemetery notlessthan 5 millions 
 sterling have been expenclerl in monuments. The nuffllieFGf 
 tombs is upwards of i 6 ,ooo. _ 
 
 (2) Omnibuses leaveThe Pla^ du Palais Royal and the Made- 
 leine for the Place de la Bastille where a correspondance for Pi;re 
 La Chaise may be had every quarter of an hour (see p. 7 j. 
 
 ( 3 ) In 17 90 Dr. Guillotin moved that persons condemned to 
 death should he beheaded; and he hinted it might be done by 
 a machine ; but if was M. Antoine Louis, Secretary to the Aca- 
 demy of Surgery, who, on the 7 th of March, 1792, in a report to 
 the National Assembly, brielly described a machine of the Kind, 
 which he said was used in England ! He was so far riglit, that 
 about 200 years ago a contrivance of thi! kind was in use at 
 Halifax. The guillotine was first used on the 27 th of May, 1792. 
 Executions in France take place at a very early hour in the 
 morning, so as to avoid as much as possible the assembling of a 
 crowd to witness these horrible exhibitions. 
 
459 
 
 TEIEATRES. 
 
 Between this spot and the Place du Trone the exterior Bou- 
 levard presents nothing of interest. Of the portion beyond suf- 
 ficient has been said elsewhere (scepp. 279, 280). 
 
 PART HI. 
 
 PLAGES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 THEATRES. 
 
 The drama in France and England took its rise from the 
 mysteries, or sacred dramas, represented by the pilgrims re- 
 turned from the Holy Land. In Paris a company was formed 
 in the reign of Charles VI., under the name of Confreres de la 
 Passion, xvho for a long period performed with applause, al- 
 though with sacred subjects they associated indecent gestures 
 and allusions. The interest excited by the novelty of their 
 representations having subsided, they united with a new troop 
 called Enfants sans souci, who acted farces enlivened with 
 songs. About the year 1 570, several Italian companies came 
 to Paris, but their representations exciting the jealousy of the 
 Confreres de la Passion, whose privileges were always re- 
 spected by the Parlement, their continuance was not of long 
 duration. Shortly afterwards the French stage began to ac- 
 quire a degree of consequence which i t had never before attained , 
 and several dramatic writers, among them Hardy, appeared 
 about the time of Henry IV. Cardinal Richelieu had two 
 theatres in his palace, in which tragediesand melodramas com- 
 posed by himself, with the assistance of Corneille, Rolrou, 
 Colletet, and others, were performed. Aboutthe year 1650, a 
 number of young men, at Ibehead of wdiomwasMoliere, formed 
 a company and erected a theatre, which they called “ le 
 Theatre lUustre.'’ In 1658, they performed in the Salle dcs 
 Gardes at the Louvre before Louis XIV., who, being satisfied 
 with their performance, assigned them a gallery in the Hotel 
 du Petit Bourbon as a theatre. In 1660, they removed to the 
 Theatre du Palais Royal, built by Cardinal Richelieu, and as- 
 sumed the title of “ la Troupe Royale.” (1) Under the reigns 
 of Louis XV. and XVL, the number of theatres in Paris greatly 
 increased. The privileges of the French comedians and of 
 
 (i) For much interesting information upon the early dramatic 
 history of France, see History of Paris, 3 vols. svo. 
 
4 CO PIACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 the Opera (1) being abolished during the first revolution, 
 a great number of smaller ones sprang up, and the consequence 
 was that they were all reduced to the utmost distress. To re- 
 medy this state of things, Napoleon in 1807 suppressed all the 
 theatres in Paris, except nine, on a compensation being made 
 to the others. After the Restoration, several new ones were 
 opened, and the drama was encouraged by the government, 
 which annually allotted a sum out of the civil list for the 
 support of the various theatres. This assistance was continued 
 after the revolution of 1830, and during the reign of King 
 Louis Philippe the number of theatres was slightly increased 
 The French tragic school has declined since the death of Mile. 
 Rachel in 18 58, and it is only hy comedy the national theatre 
 now sustains its pre-eminence (2.) 
 
 Since the 1st of July, 1804, all privileges of theatres have 
 been suppressed, and any person may open a theatre on 
 making a declaration to that effect to the Minister of the Fine 
 Arts, the Prefect of Police, and the Prefect of the department. 
 Some theatres receive a subvention from the State ; the 
 French Opera receives 820,000 fr. in consideration of the per- 
 
 (1) The invention of the Opera is altrihuted to two Florentines, 
 Ottavio Rinucci, a poet, and Giacomo Corsi, a musician, about 
 Ihe commencement of the leth century, when a grand lyric 
 spectacle entitled thedwoMrs of Apollo and Circe was first played 
 Willi success at the court of the Grand Duke of Tuscany. It was 
 introduced into France hy Cardinal Mazarin, and in 1669 letters 
 patent were granted to the abbi 5 Perrin to establish academies of 
 music in France. The opening of the Academie in Paris took 
 place in May 1 67 1 , with an Opera called Pomona, the Avords hy the 
 ahb (5 Perrin, the music by Gambert, an organist. The first mu- 
 sicians and singers of the grand Opera Avere taken from the 
 cathedrals, principally from Languedoc. In i7 62 the privi- 
 lege Avas transferred to Lully, under Avliose direction, and the 
 poetical co-operation of Quinault, it acquired the vogue Avhich 
 it has maintained up to the present day. 
 
 (2) From a statistical report by M. Rondot, it appears that the 
 number of thcati’es in the 86 departments is 36 i ; 36 belonging 
 to the small department of the Seine. Forty itinerant companies 
 do duty for no less than 280 theatres, 45 only being provided 
 wdh stationary troupes. Three departments of the soutli have 
 no theatre Avhatever, viz. Loz^re, Basses-Alpes, and Ardfeche. 
 
 T he number of actors and actresses in France is variously estimated 
 at from 3,000 to 8,000. Under Louis XllI, there "was only one 
 theatre in the capital, for M. Rondot does not reckon as such the 
 hoollis of Gros-Reni 5 and Gauticr-Garguille ; under Louis XIV. 
 they increased to five; there were six under Louis XV., ahd un- 
 der his itl-fated successor ten were in full play. In 1791, all mo- 
 nopolies having been abolished, 51 sprung up all at once; but 
 in J8O6, Ave find them decreased to 34 . Paris enjoyed lotheatres 
 
THEATnES. 4C1 
 
 fection which it is expected to attain ; the Theatre Francais 
 
 240.000 fr. as an encouragement for classical comedy; the 
 Opera Comique the same to encourage the lighter styles of na- 
 tional music; the Theatre Lyrique, 100,000 fr. ; the Odeon, 
 
 100.000 fr, ; the Conservatoire and its branch establishments 
 in the departments, 222,000 fr. A sum of 137,000 fr. is 
 moreover allotted for encouragement to authors and artists. 
 All places of public amusement pay lo per cent, of their 
 receipts for the maintenance of hospitals and charitable institu- 
 tions. The produce of this tax is about a million of francs. (1) 
 
 The rights of French dramatic authors arc well secured. 
 They receive during life, for a piece of 3 or 5 acts, one- 18 th, 
 and for a piece of 1 act, one-30th of the gross receipts ; and the 
 same benefit devolves to their heirs for a period of 30 years. (2) 
 Two prizes of 5,000 fr. and two of 3,000 fr. are also annually 
 awarded by Government to the four best pieces represented 
 during the year. The French stage, though now bereft of the 
 talent of Scribe, who died in 1801, still possesses St. Georges, 
 Victor Hugo, Ponsard, and Dumas. With these may be asso- 
 ciated the eminent name of the late lamented Meyerbeer (his 
 greatest works having been composed for Paris), and many 
 others, all of great merit. 
 
 Till the reign of Louis XIV. female characters were per- 
 formed by men in women’s attire (3) ; and till a much later 
 from 1810 lo 1814, 16 in i83i, and upwards of 4o since i864. 
 Tlie niunber of pleasure-seeliers in Paris at all places of public 
 amusement is estimated at 60 ,ooo daily. From i807 to i8ii the 
 receipts of the metropolitan theatres averaged live millions of 
 francs; and in 1866 they rose lo 19 , 168 , -415 francs. The lowest 
 salary at a Paris theatre is 23 fr. per month. 
 
 ( 1 ) The sums paid by the theatres of Paris last year, were 
 as follows: — Grand Opera, 99,023 fr.; Theatre Francais, 58,126 
 francs; Opera Comique, 109 , 064 fr.; Italiens, 43,950 fr.; Od6on, 
 32,115 fr.; Theatre Lyrique, 49,904 fr.; Gymnase, 74,640 fr.; 
 Vaudeville, 6i,465 fr.; Varietes, 51,710 fr.; Palais Royal, 5i,85i 
 francs; Caitd, 5.3,585 fr.; Ambigu Comique, 52,610 fr.; Porte Saint 
 Martin, 78,777 fr.; and Cirque, 68,969 fr. 
 
 (2) The number of new pieces brought out at the different 
 theatres of P.aris averages about 250 a-year. The amount of 
 authors’ receipts was i,872,800 fr. in i866. 
 
 (3) Mme. Favart, an eminent actress of the last century, was 
 the first to infringe the absurd custom of playing .Achilles in a 
 court dress with a helmet over his wig, and Clytemnestra in a 
 hoop. She appeared for the first time in Bastien et Bastienne, a 
 play of her own composition, in the real costume of a peasant, 
 without curls and with wooden shoes. She was generally cri- 
 ticized for it, but the Abbe Voisenon took her part, saying: 
 Messieurs, ces sabots donneront des souliers aux comediens. All the 
 rehearsals now take place en costume. 
 
4 62 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 period all cliaraclers were played in the dress of the court of 
 “ le grand monarque.” Talma first gave that correctness of 
 taste to the French stage for which it is now so celebrated ; and 
 ever since his day there are to he found, and especially now, 
 at the great theatres of Paris, accurate and animated tableaux 
 vivants of the times and costumes, &c., relating to the 
 pieces. The theatres of Paris are well regulated, policemen and 
 guards are stationed at all the doors, and preserve order in 
 the interior. The visitors who await the opening of the doors 
 are arranged in files of two or three abreast, called a 
 queue ; and although the crowd consists of several hundred, 
 buf little inconvenience is felt, and every person is admitted 
 in his turn. Such, indeed, is the ardour for theatrical amuse- 
 ments exhibited by the population of Paris, that a crowd, or 
 queue as it is commonly called, may alwa}"s be found at 
 the door of any popular theatre a long while before the 
 time of admission. Persons who proceed to theatres in hired 
 cabriolets, or fiacres, are required to pay the fare beforehand, 
 to avoid delay at the door. No person is permitted to call 
 his carriage until he is actually waiting for it at the door; 
 and should the owner not step into it at the moment, it is 
 ordered off by the police, to make way for another. The pit 
 of French theatres is generally appropriated to men alone, but 
 some of the minor ones admit women. The best place for 
 gentlemen is the orchestre, or row of stalls immediately be- 
 hind the musicians, and next to this is, in general, the more 
 fashionable balcon, on the side of the first row of boxes, which 
 last arc for the most part small, holding from 4 to 6 persons. 
 The best places when with ladies, and when a box is not taken, 
 are the stalks de balcon. In many of the theatres a 
 small gallery extends round the front of each tier ; these are 
 called the galeries, and though good places, and cheaper than 
 the boxes, are not so comfortable. The galleries above, called 
 amphitheatre, or paradis, are frequented by the lower orders, 
 and are the cheapest places of the house. The French names 
 of places for which the visitor should ask are the following ; 
 loges means boxes ; baignoires, boxes on the pit tier ; de face, 
 front ; de c6te, side ; parterre, pit. On taking places before- 
 hand, for the advantage of choosing and securing them, about 
 one-fourth more is paid than at the doors ; an injudicious mea- 
 sure, since it hinders many people from following that course. 
 There are men who, notwithstanding the prohibition of the 
 police, purchase tickets wholesale from the directors of the the- 
 atres, or else, on a new piece anxiously expected coming out, 
 forestall the public by buying up at the door nearly all the 
 tickets for the best places, and then sell them outside to the 
 
THEATRES. 
 
 403 
 
 public; in the fomier case, at lower prices than are paid at the 
 doors; in the latter, at any price they choose to ask. 
 
 We would recommend the visitor to go to all the theatres, 
 as he will nowhere in so short a time obtain a better know- 
 ledge of the manners and character of tlie French people. 
 
 The AcadEmie Ihperiaee de Musique, or French Opera- 
 House, is a temporary building, erected in the space of a year, 
 by M. Debret, architect, to replace, as speedily as possible, the 
 opera-house then in the rue de Richelieu, at the door of which 
 the Duke de Berri was assassinated, in 1820 — the Goviynment 
 having ordered its demolition in consequence (seep. 221). 
 It conununicates with three streets — the rue Lepelletier for 
 carriages, rue Rossini for fiacres, and rue Drouot for per- 
 sons on foot. Two passages, skirted with shops, also form 
 a communication with the Boulevard Italien. The front con- 
 sists of a series of arcades on the ground floor, forming a double 
 vestibule. At each end a wing projects, and between these 
 wings, from the top of the arcades, is a light awning supported 
 by cast-iron pillars, beneath which carriages set down. On the 
 first floor is a range of nine arcades, combining the Ionic and 
 Doric orders, which form the windows of the saloon. The 
 elevation of the front is 64 feet. The second or interior vesti- 
 bule is ornamented with Doric columns, and on each side of it 
 is a staircase leading to the first row of boxes and the saloon. 
 From the lobby two other staircases lead to the pit, the bai- 
 gnoires, and the orchestra. Between the latter and the lobbies 
 of the stage boxes are two staircases leading to the top of the 
 building, and so numerous are the outlets, that the house may 
 be cleared in fifteen minutes. The interior will accommodate 
 1,800 persons; its dimensions are 66 feet from side to side, 
 with a stage 42 feet in breadth by 82 in depth. The space for 
 machinery underneath the latter is 32 feet deep; the wall be- 
 tween the house and the stage rises aboA'e the roof, and in case 
 of fire the communication between the two can be entirely cut 
 off by a curtain of wire-gauze, while ventilators carry the 
 flames in any given direction. Reservoirs of water are placed 
 under the roof. The saloon or foxjer is 180 feet in length, ex- 
 tending throughout the breadth of the building, and is one of 
 the finest in Paris. Here is a bronze statue of Mercury invent- 
 ing the lyre, cast from a model bj" Duret (1). This theatre 
 receives a subvention of loo,ooofr. from the Civil List in 
 addition to that of the State. The singers are pupils of the 
 
 (i) Tlie original of this slaliie, executed in marble by that 
 scnl|iloi', had been bought by the civil list in 1 830, and placed in 
 tlie Palais Royal, where it was destroyed by the mob on the 24th 
 of February, 1 848. 
 
464 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 Conservatoire, and tlie corps de ballet consists of the most 
 distinguished dancers of the day. Great attention is paid to 
 costume and general effect ; crinoline is forbidden on the 
 stage. The scenic department especially has long been re- 
 nowned as almost unrivalled at any other theatre in Europe, 
 and the coup-d’oeil here presented by the stage in some of 
 the more gorgeous operas and ballets is unequalled for 
 taste and magnificence ( l ) . A new system of stage lightin", 
 invented by Professor Lissajous, has lately been adopted 
 bero. Tbe float is placed 2^ feet below the boards, and 
 the emanations of the burners are carried off through two 
 pipes reaching to the top of the roof. The luminous rays col- 
 lected b}'- a double reflector are transmitted to the stage through 
 a sloping aperture, covered with a plate of dull glass, so that 
 all danger of the actresses’ dresses catching fire is obviated, and 
 the light is not injurious to the eyes. Performances on Mon- 
 days, Wednesdays, and Fridays, and sometimes on Sundays. 
 
 Prices of Admission.— Premieres Loges de face, 12 fr. Stalles 
 d’Ampliilheatre, 12 fr. Stalles d’Orchestre, 10 fr. Premieres 
 loges de cot6, 8 fr. Deuxiemes loges de colth 7 fr. Troisi&mes 
 loges de face,6fr. Troisiemes loges de cote et quafrienies deface, 
 4 fr. Parterre, 5 fr.— Performances begin belween 7 and 8. 
 
 Italian Opera, rue Marsollier. — This company occupied the 
 Salle Favart, now the Opera Comique, boulevard des Italiens, 
 until its destruction by fire in 1838. The performances were 
 subsequently transferred to tbe Salle Ventadoui-, then to the 
 
 (i) By a decree of the 29lh of June, is,";/!, the Acadiiinie de 
 Musique was declared to be an inslitiilion belonging to the 
 State, and the performers were accordingly obliged to consent 
 to a stoppage of 5 per cent, on their salaries in favour of a 
 superannuation fund, as is the case with other Government 
 functionaries. To this fund were added: the produce of 
 all fines for breach of discipline, &c.; the amount of all 
 judicial condemnations given in favour of the theatre ; the 
 produce of two representations to be given annually at the 
 Opera; an annual grant of 20,000 fr. from the Civil List; and 
 donations and legacies bequeathed to the fund. The singers, 
 dancers, and personnel of the ballets had a right to their pension 
 after 20 years’ service; ’the chief of the orchestra, ballet-innsler, 
 chefs du chant, and chief machinist, after 20 years and at so 
 years of age ; professors, accompanists, musicians, choristers, 
 and machinists, after 25 years and so years of age; and all others 
 after 50 years and so years of age. Ttiis system has, however, 
 been abolished by a decree of March, is66 : the Grand Opera 
 has again become a private speculation, and the pensions are 
 only maintained for those performers who belonged to the 
 establishment under the former arrangement. 
 
THEATRES. 
 
 465 
 
 Odeon, and have noW again been removed to the former theatre. 
 The present building was erected on the site of the hotel oc- 
 cupied by the Minister of Finance, after the designs of Messrs. 
 Huve and de Guerchy ; it is 1 54 feet in length by 1 1 0 in breadth . 
 The principal front, which is Doric and Ionic, is divided into 
 two stories, crowned by an attic. Above the entablature, and 
 in front of the attic, are eight statues of the Muses, Urania being 
 omitted. Blank arcades, continued along the sides and back 
 of the building, support the upper story with its balustraded 
 windows. The interior of the theatre, which is semicirculai-, 
 contains four tiers, of which the two first are double, having 
 open boxes in front, and partitioned ones behind. The balcons 
 and orchestra are divided into ranges of stalls, each forming an 
 arm-chair. The ceiling, painted by Ferri, in lozenge-shaped 
 compartments, represents a cupola, through which a blue sky 
 appears. The figures which support it are by Klagmann. In 
 the foyer, or lobby, there is a fine bust of Lablache, the 
 celebrated buffo, by Etex. This theatre holds 2000 persons. 
 The performances, which are of the highest merit, take place 
 on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, and sometimes on 
 Mondays or Sundays. The season lasts only seven months, 
 generally from the 1st of October to the 30th of April. 
 
 Admission . — Premieres loges, 1 5 fr. Fauteuils d’orchestre, et 
 de Balcon, i 2 fr. Secondes de face, i2fr. Secondes de c6t6, 
 9 fr. Troisi^mes, 7 fr. Parterre, lo fr. — Performances begin at 8. 
 
 Theatre de l’Opera Comique, Place des Italiens. — The 
 front is adorned with a portico of six Ionic columns, and the 
 edifice, almost entirely of stone and iron, is fire-proof. The 
 interior is elliptical, with three tiers of boxes. Around the pit 
 are baignoires, some arranged as boxes, the others as stalls. 
 Above is a first and second gallery, the former with two rows 
 of stalls. The house is built for 1800 spectators. The seats of 
 the pit are so placed that the spectator’s eye is on a level with 
 the stage. To every second box is attached a small saloon, afford- 
 ing an agreeable retreat between the acts from the heat of the 
 theatre. A bell from each enables the visitors to smnmon at- 
 tendants with ices and refreshments, without the trouble of 
 leaving the box. The decorations are white and gold, with 
 ornaments in relief, in copper, richly gilt. The ceiling is of 
 good execution, containing the portraits of Boieldieu, Gretry, 
 and other composers, in various medallions. A large foyer, of 
 Corinthian architecture, decorated in the same style as the 
 house, and furnished with divans, is on the first floor behind 
 the boxes. Here are the busts of Gretry, Berton, Sedaine, 
 Marmontel, Nicolo, Boieldieu, Herold, Marsollier, Dalayrac, 
 Monsigny, St. Just, Mehul, Favart, Etienne, and Madame de 
 
 30 
 
466 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 Girardin. The light agreeable character of the music, which for- 
 merly distinguished the Opera Comiqiie, has given placeof late 
 years to a more elaborate style, more scientific perhaps, but less 
 popular ; Auber aud Halevy, however, preserve the ancient 
 character of this school. In the cellars there is a ventilating 
 apparatus for a supply of fresh air, cooled by ice, the 
 vitiated atmosphere finding egress through the ceiling. Stage 
 lighting, however, still remains in this, as well as in the other 
 theatres below, in its primitive state ; the obnoxious board i 
 which conceals the foot-lights from the spectator, as well as 
 the feet of the actors, being still retained, instead of the much 
 more rational system followed in England since the very be- 
 ginning of this century, by which the foot-hghts are screened 
 by semi-cylindrical shades, through the interstices of which 
 the stage may be seen without hindrance. The streets around 
 are flagged with bitumen to deaden the noise of carriages. 
 
 Admission.— Vremihres Loges avec Salon, Avant-scenes du rez- 
 de-chaussee, 8 fr. Fauteiiils de Balcon, Premieres loges sans 
 salon, 7 fr. Fauteuils d’Orchestre, Baignoires, 6 fr. Deuxifjmes 
 Joges, 5 fr. Stalles d’orchestre, 4 fr. Deuxi^me Galerie, 3 fr. 
 Parterre, 2 fr. so c,— Performances begin at about 7 . 
 
 Theatre FRANgAis, or Comedie Frangaise, Rue Richelieu, 
 at the Palais Royal, was begun by the Duke of Orleans, in 
 1787, after the designs of Louis. It is 1 CC feet in length by 105 
 in breadth, and its total height, to the summit of the terrace, 
 is 100 feet. The principal front, towards the rue Richelieu, 
 presents a Doric peristyle ; facing the rue de Monlpensier, and 
 partly attached to the Palais Royal, a range of arcades, resting 
 on pilasters, and continued round the corner, forms a covered 
 gallery. On both fronts is a range of Corinthian pilasters, 
 vyith an entablature piei’ced by small windows. From the ves- 
 tibule an elegant staircase leads up to the foyer, which has re- 
 cently been enlarged by the whole width of the new portico 
 towards the rue St. Honore. The new foyer is a splendid 
 saloon, decorated along the sides with sixteen fluted pilasters 
 supporting the salient arches of the vaulted ceiling. At one 
 end of the room is a monumental marble chimney-piece sur- 
 mounted by the Emperor’s bust. Opposite, on a pedestal of 
 blue-tinted marble, is Houdon’s famous statue of Voltaire, 
 which used to stand in the middle of the old vestibule towards 
 the rue Richelieu. The foyer, and an adjoining gallery, con- 
 tain nmnerous busts of distinguished French dramatists, among 
 which are one ot Diderot, by Lescorne, and another of Mile. 
 Mars, by David d’Angers. There is also here a portrait of Mile. 
 Rachel, painted by Gerome. An interesting collection of various 
 objects connected with Moliere and other celebrities of the 
 
THEATRES. 467 
 
 French drama exists here. The interior form of the house is 
 elliptical; and the total number of places is 1300. The per- 
 formances at this theatre, which is the standard one of the 
 whole country, used to be limited to the highest style of 
 tragedy and regular comedy. Some relaxation of this rule 
 has, however, taken place by the admission of the productions 
 of MM. Victor Hugo, Dumas, Scribe, &c., which, with all 
 their merits, certainly do not reach the elevation of style 
 heretofore deemed essential to the highest order of the drama. 
 
 Admission. — Avant^scfenes du Rez-de-Chauss 6 e, 9 fr. Loges 
 du Rez-de-Chaussde, Loges du premier rang, 7 fr. Loges du 
 deuxifeme rang, Fauteuils de Balcon, 6 fr. Loges du deuxi 6 me 
 rang d<§couvertes, Fauteuils d’Orchestre, 5 fr. Parterre, 2 fr. soc. 
 — Begins between 7 and 8 . 
 
 Theatre Imperial de l’Odeon. — This theatre was built 
 in 1779. It was burnt down in 1799, and rebuilt in 1807. 
 The interior was a second time destroyed by fire in 1818, but 
 repaired in 1820. The exterior is 168 feet in length i \‘x in 
 breadth, and 64 in height. The principal front is ornamented 
 : with a portico of eight Doric columns, ascended by steps. The 
 vestibule is small ; two handsome stone staircases lead from it 
 to the interior, which holds 1,700 persons. The decorations 
 are tastefully executed, giving the theatre a light and elegant 
 appearance, and the saloon is handsome. Upon the last re- 
 storation of this theatre every possible precaution was adopted 
 in case of fire to prevent the flames extending from one part 
 of the building to another. The performances here consist of 
 tragedies, comedies, and other dramatic pieces. The director 
 of the company has the theatre rent-free from Government. 
 
 Admission . — Avant-scenes des Premieres, 8 fr. Premi^ires avec 
 Salon, 6 fr. Premieres ferraees deface, 5 fr. Fauteuils d’Orchestre, 
 Fauteuils de balcon, 5 fr. Baignoires, Premieres de balcon, 3 fr. 
 Deuxifeme Galerie de face, 2 fr. so c. Parterre, 2 fr.— Per- 
 formances begin at from 7 to half-past. 
 
 ThEatre du Gymxase, Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, was 
 erected in 1820, and presents to the boulevard a front of six 
 I Ionic engaged columns, surmounted by as many Corinthian, 
 with pedestals united by a balustrade. The vestibule is small ; 
 the house, which will contain 1,200 spectators, is well suited 
 both for hearing and seeing. The performances are limited to 
 vaudevilles and comedies; most of the dramatic productions of 
 Scribe were written for this theatre. The company is good. 
 
 Admission . — Loges d’Entresol et Premieres Loges, 8 fr. 
 Fauteuils de Balcon, Fauteuils d’Orchestre, 7 fr. Baignoires, 5 fr. 
 Parterre, 2 fr. sOc. — Performances begin at from 6.30 to 7.30. 
 
 Theatre du Palais Royal, formerly known as the Thedtre 
 Moniamier, at the north-western corner of the Palais- 
 
468 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 Royal, was opened in 1831. It is neatly decorated within, 
 but is of very small dimensions ; the number of places is only 
 1000. Vaudevilles and farces are performed here by an excel- 
 lent company, and it is a most successful theatre. 
 
 Admission. — Premieres de face, Loges de Balcon, Fauteiiilsde 
 premiere Galerie, de Balcon, d’Orchestre, 5 fr. Secondes de face, 
 
 4 fr. Parterre, 2 fr. — Performances begin at from 7 to half-past. 
 
 ThEatre DU Vaudeville, Place de la Bourse, formerly the 
 Opera-Comique, was opened in 1827. It presents a narrow 
 front, ornamented with columns of the Ionic and Corinthian 
 orders, pilasters, and niches, in which statues are placed. The 
 interior is of a circular form, and holds 1,300 persons. The 
 decorations of the house are not devoid of taste, and its size, 
 which rendered it unlit for an opera, is suited to the present 
 description of performances. The company is excellent. 
 
 Admission. — Avant-scSnes des Premieres, Premieres de face. 
 Baignoires a salon, 6 fr. Fauteuils d’Orchestre, Fauteuils de la 
 Premiere Galerie, 5 fr. Baignoires de face, sfr. Parterre, 2 fr. 
 — Performances begin at from half-past 6 to half-past 7. 
 
 ThEatre des Vari^tEs, Boulevard Montmartre. — This 
 theatre, built by M. Cellerier, was opened in 1807. Its front, 
 though small, is pure in style and decorated with two ranges 
 of columns, Doric and Ionic, surmounted by a pediment. On 
 the ground-floor is a vestibule, from which flights of stairs lead 
 to the first tier of boxes and to the saloon, over the vestibule. 
 The house can accommodate l,3oo persons. Vaudevilles and 
 farces are performed here. The company is good. 
 
 Admission. — Avant-sefenes des Premieres, 8 fr. Baignoires, 6 fr. 
 Loges du premier rang, Fauteuils de Balcon et d’Orcheslre, 5 fr. 
 Deuxi^mes loges de face, 4 fr. Deuxi^mes loges interm^- 
 diaires, 3 fr. Parterre, 2 fr. 50e. — Performances begin at from 
 half-past 6 to half past 7. 
 
 ThEatre de la Porte St. Martin, Boulevard St. Martin. — 
 The opera-house having been burnt in 17 81, this edifice, used 
 for a time in its stead, was planned and built in 7 5 days. It 
 is constructed of wood and plaster, and, though large and con- 
 venient within, is externally devoid of merit. It has no vesti- 
 bule, and the saloon is very small, but the salle holds 1,800 
 persons. Dramas and vaudevilles are performed here, and 
 occasionally pieces of a higher standard. 
 
 Admission. — Baignoires, Fauteuils de Balcon, Premieres de 
 face, 7 fr. Fauteuils d’Orchestre, 6 fr. Stalles d’Orchestre, 
 4 fr. 50 c. Deuxl6uies loges, sfr. Parterre, 2 fr. — Begins at 
 about 6 to 7. 
 
 ThEatre de l’Ambigu-Gomique, Boulevard St. Martin. — The 
 Ambigu Coraique on the Boulevard du Temple having been 
 
THEATRES. 
 
 469 
 
 destroyed by fire, this house was erected by Stouff and Le- 
 cointre, and opened in 1828 . The front is ornamented at each 
 story with columns supporting a cornice and entablature, and 
 the upper story, instead of windows, contains niches with 
 allegorical statues. The peristyle is surmounted by a terrace. 
 The theatre contains 1,900 places. Melodramas and vaude- 
 villes are performed here. 
 
 Admission. — Avant-scfenes, Premieres de face a Salon, 6 fr. 
 Fauteuils des premieres, premier rang, Fauteuils d’Orchestre, 
 5 fr. Loges d^couvertes des premiei’es, 5 fr. Stalles d’Orches- 
 tre, Fauteuils de pourtour, 3 fr. Deuxi^mes loges de face, 
 2 fr. 50C. Parterre, i fr. so c. — Begins at from 6 to 7. 
 
 Theatre Imperial du Chatelet, on the western side 
 of the Place of that name. It was transferred hither in 1862 
 from the Boulevard du Temple, where it was called Theatre 
 du Cirque, having been founded by Astley in 17 80 for 
 equestrian performances. The present building is chiefly 
 remarkable for an experiment on the value of which opinions 
 differ for the present, viz., the substitution of a glass ceiling 
 for the lustre, which used to blind the eyes of those who 
 occupied the upper tiers. An improved system of ventilation 
 has removed the inconvenience complained of at the outset, 
 of the great heat darted down on the pit from the 1,600 gas- 
 burners situated between the glass ceiling and the roof, but some 
 still complain of the glare from the former,, In other respects 
 the house is infinitely more commodious than the old theatres ; 
 the seats are more convenient, and the speedy egress of the 
 public has been amply provided for. There are three tiers 
 of arches, the upper ones spanning two of the lower, which 
 produces a pleasing effect. There is a spacious projecting 
 gallery in front of the first tier of arches, which is divided 
 into boxes ; the other arches have only galleries behind, the 
 lower tier with five, the upper with six rows of stalls. Above 
 rises the amphitheatre, the cheapest place in the house, xvith 
 seven rows of seats. The house will accommodate 3,500 
 spectators in all. The Imperial box is in front of the 
 stage. There are no stage-boxes, their place being sup- 
 plied by a ventilating apparatus concealed from view. 
 The stage is vast, and well adapted for military and fairy 
 pieces, which form the staple of this theatre. There are 
 two foyers, extending along the whole front of the edi- 
 fice ; that on the first floor is extremely elegant, and set 
 apart for the better classes ; the other on the fourth 
 story, is reserved for the spectators of the amphitheatre, 
 and provided with the refreshments best suited to their 
 tastes. The public of one foyer have no communica- 
 
470 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 tion with that of the other ; but a ticket is given to those 
 who wish to pass from the better foyer to the upper one, 
 and then return. 
 
 Admission . — Loges de Balcon, 6 fr. Fauteuils de Balcon et 
 d’Orchestre, 5 fr. Stalles d’Orchestre et Baignoires, 4 fr. Pour- 
 tour, Stalles de Galerie. 3 fr. Parterre, 2 fr. 
 
 Theatre Lybique, Place du Chatelet. This theatre, which 
 stands opposite to the other, is but a miniature copy of it, and 
 needs therefore no particular description. It will contain 
 1,750 spectators, and is exclusively devoted to operettas. The 
 architect of both these theatres is M. Davioud. 
 
 Admission. — Avant-sefenes, Baignoires d’Avant-sefenes, 8 fr. 
 Fauteuils d’Orchestre, 7 fr. Loges a Salon, Fauteuils de Balcon, 
 8 fr. Loges du 2 me 6 tage £i Salon de face, 6 fr. Fauteuils du 2me 
 Balcon, 3 fr. Parterre, 2 fr. 5 o c.— -Begins at about 7. 
 
 Theatre de la Gaite, Square des Arts et Metiers. This 
 theatre, transferred hither from the Boulevard du Temple, is 
 not perceptibly larger than the Theatre Lyrique, and like it, 
 holds 1,800 persons. All the improvements introduced into 
 the two preceding ones have been adopted here, except in the 
 lighting apparatus, which is constructed on a different prin- 
 ciple. The lustre indeed is suppressed, but instead of the 
 glass ceiling, the latter is pierced with a circular aperture, 
 closed by what might be called a glass basket, which de- 
 scends to about two feet below the upper curve of the 
 ceiling. From this, light is distributed in all directions ; 
 and in addition there are twelve reflectors in the coves of 
 the ceiling, whence the light from the basket is radiated 
 so as not to leave a corner of the house unilluminated. 
 This system is generally approved of. The foyer is one of 
 the most splendid in Paris. Vaudevilles and melodramas. 
 
 Admission . — Avant-scfenes, Loges de face, 6 fr. Fauteuils d’Or- 
 chestre, Fauteuils de Galerie, 5 fr. Baignoires, 2 me Galerie, 4 fr. 
 Stalles de Balcon, 3 fr. Parterre, t fr. 50 c.— Begins at about 7. 
 
 Theatre des Folies Dramatiques, 40, Rue de Bondy. — 
 This theatre, formerly on the Boulevard du Temple, is, with 
 the exception of a few ornaments added to the facade, scarcely 
 distinguishable from the surrounding houses. Constructed 
 within an ample court-yard, its plan (a horse- shoe ending in 
 a rectangle) does not please the eye, and the foyer is of very 
 modest pretensions ; but the stage is spacious, the seats and 
 boxes comfortable, and music is heard to advantage. It is 
 lighted with a lustre, and will hold 1,200 spectators. Vaude- 
 villes and farces are performed here. 
 
 Admission . — Avant-Sc^nes des Preniiferes, 4 fr. Loges d’Avant- 
 scenes, 3 fr. Loges de la Premii're Galerie, 2 fr. 5 o c. Fah- 
 teuils d'Orchestre, 2 fr. Parterre, 1 fr. — Begins at 7 . 
 
THEATRES. 
 
 471 
 
 Bouffes Parisiens, Passage ChoiseuL— Vaudevilles, comic 
 operas, 8cc., are performed here with great ability. 
 
 Admission. — Avant-scenes de la Premiere Galerie, et Pre- 
 mieres Loges, 6fr. Orchestre, 5 fr, Balcon, 3 fr. Deuxienies 
 Loges, 3 fr. Deuxi^rnes de face, 3 fr.— Begins at from 7 to 8. 
 
 Theatre Dejazet, 41, Boulevard du Temple. — A pretty 
 theatre for pantomimes, grotesque ballets, and farces. Named 
 after the celebrated actress Mile. Dejazet, who, though at an 
 advanced age, still performs here with great success. 
 
 Adwiwsio?!.— Avant-scenes, 5 fr. Loges, Fanteuils d’Orchestre, 
 3 fr. 50 c. Slalles, 2 fr. 5oc. Parterre, 1 fr. Begins at about 7. 
 
 Theatre Beaumarchais, Boulevard Beaumarchais. — It con- 
 tains 1,2 50 places. Melodramas, vaudevilles, &c. 
 
 Admmwn.— Avant-scenes, 3 fr. 50C. Fauteiiils d’Orchestre, 2 fr. 
 50 c. Orcliestre, 1 fr. 75 c. Parterre, 75 c. Begins at about 7 . 
 
 Folies Marigny, Avenue Gabriel, Champs Elysees. Vaude- 
 villes. Admission from 2 fr. to 5 fr. 
 
 Delassements Comiques, Boulevard du Prince Eugene, 
 23. — Similar to the former. 
 
 Grand Theatre Parjsien, Rue de Lyon. — Vaudevilles and 
 dramas. Admission from 50 c. to 2 fr. 
 
 Theatre du Luxembourg, rue de Fleurus. — Melodramas, 
 and vaudevilles. Admission from 50 c. to 2 fr. 50 e. 
 
 Folies St. Germain, Boulevard St. Germain. — Vaude- 
 villes, 5cc, Admission, from 4 fr. to 1 fr. 
 
 Fantaisies Parisiennes, Boulevard des Italiens, 26. — 
 Musical farces. Admission, from 2 to 5 fr. 
 
 Theatre des Nouveautes, 60,Ruedu Faubourg St. Martin. 
 — Farces and vaudevilles. Admission, from 50 c. to 4 fr. 
 
 Theatre des Menus Plaisirs, 14, Boulevard de Stras- 
 bourg. Similar to the former. 
 
 Petit Theatre, Place de la Bastille. — Two performances 
 a day, at half-past 5 and half-past 8 p.m. Farces. Admission, 
 from 2 5 c. to 1 fr. 50 c. 
 
 Theatre St. Marcel, rue Pascal, in the F.iub. St. Marceau. 
 — For vaudevilles and melodramas. Admission, 8 to 50 sous. 
 
 Theatre Lafayette, Rue Lafayette. — Similar to theabove. 
 
 Admission. — i fr. to 1 fr. 
 
 Theatre St. Pierre, Rue et Passage St. Pierre Popin- 
 court, 5. — A small and inconvenient theatre for vaudevilles, 
 &c. Admission, from 50 c. to 2 fr. 
 
 Ecole Lyrique, Rue de la Tour d'Auvergne. — For be- 
 ginners in the dramatic art. Admission, from 50 c. to 2 fr. 
 
 Soirees Mysterieuses, by Cieverman, 8, Boulevard des 
 
472 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 Italiens. Legerdemain, tricks with cards, &c. Open only part 
 of the year. Admission, 1 fr. 50 c., 3 fr. and 4 fr. 
 
 Tii^atke Seraphin, 12, Boulevard Montmartre. — This is a 
 kind of puppet-show, with mechanical figures, called} Ombres 
 Chinoises, phantasmagoric tableaux, 5cc., and is the delight of 
 children and nursery-maids. 
 
 Admission . — 15 SOUS to i fr. 50 c. — Performances at 2 and 8. 
 
 Cirque de l’Impi^ratrice, Champs Elysees, au Rond Point. 
 Equestrian performances were first introduced at Paris by 
 Messrs. Astley, of London, in the time of the Directory, and their 
 company was succeeded by that of Franconi, in the time of 
 Napoleon. The present building devoted to these performances 
 is a spacious polygonal edifice of sixteen sides, with an elegant 
 pedimented porch to the east, surmounted with a bronze figure 
 of a horse. The interior is in the Moorish style, the roof sup- 
 ported by light iron columns. It will hold 4,000 persons, 
 and is only open in summer. Admission 1 fr. 50 c. and 
 2 fr. 50 c.; performances commence at 8. In winter the 
 same company performs at the 
 
 Cirque Napoleon, Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire. — 
 0,000 places. Admission, Ifr. and 2fr. Conmience at 8 . 
 
 Cirque du Prince Imperial. Great American Circus . — 
 Well worthy of a visit. Begins at 8 o’clock. — In the rue dc 
 Malte, Boulevard des Amandiers. 4,000 places. Admission 
 4 fr. to 50 c. 
 
 The Hippodrome, near the Rond Point de I’A venue de St. 
 Cloud (Arc de I’Etoile), is a wooden circular enclosure for 
 equestrian exhibitions, gymnastics, and military shows. The 
 arena is uncovered ; performances on Sundays, Tuesdays, 
 Thursdays, and Saturdays. Admission, Ifr. and 2 fr. 
 
 There are also a number of small theatres belonging to 
 the arrondissements comprised between the 13th and 20th. 
 The pieces performed are melodramas, vaudevilles, petty 
 comedies, and even tragedies. The Thedtres Montmartre,. 
 Passy, Batignolles, Belleville, La Villette, and Mont Parnasse 
 give representations daily ; the Theatre de Grenelle, two or 
 three times a-week. The admission varies from 40 c. to 2 fr. 
 
 EXHIBITIONS. 
 
 Exhibition of French Colonial Produce. — This exhi- 
 bition, organized by the Ministers of Algeria and Marine, is 
 visible daily, Mondays and Thursdays excepted, from 12 to 
 4 p.m. , at the Palais de I’lndustrie (central entrance facing the 
 Seine). It contains specimens of Algerian wool, cloth and 
 silks, wheat, dried fruits, and furniture made of Algerian olive 
 
CONCERTS. 
 
 and other kinds of ornamental wood ; also produce from Gua- 
 deloupe, Martinique, Senegal, Gaboon, 8cc,, such as seeds, 
 fruits stuffs and trinkets made by savages, palm-oil and soap, 
 spices, medicinal plants, furs, &c. The manuscripts m 
 Arabic, and books printed by the missionary society m 
 various languages of Africa, will attract peculiar attention. 
 
 Panorama.— Near the Palais de I’Industrie, views of the 
 Battle of Solferino (see p. 185). 
 
 Other sights spring up every month, but they are too mutable 
 to find a place here ; they may moreover be ascertained by a 
 glance at the bills stuck up about town, or reference to the 
 daily newspapers (see PeTiodical Exhibitions, p. 104). 
 
 CONCERTS. 
 
 The concert season in Paris may be said to last all the year 
 round, for though the highest class of these entertainments is 
 limited to winter and spring, concerts of a more miscellaneous 
 description continue to be given during the whole of the sum- 
 mer and autumn, though not regularly. Those w iicli take place 
 annually in the winter season are justly celebrated thioughout 
 Europe for their excellence. In the first rank ot these stand 
 the series (six in number) given by the “ Societe des Concerts 
 at the Conservatoire de Musique, 2, rue Bergere, which take 
 place once a-fortnight. These concerts are chiefly devoted to 
 instrumental music, though choruses and other vocal pieces 
 are likewise given. The selections are principally confined to 
 the works of the most celebrated classic composers, Gluck, 
 Handel, Mozart, Haydn, and latterly Beethoven, Weber 8cc 
 and the orchestra of the society being as a body the finest and 
 best-disciplined instrumentalists in any European capital, their 
 chefs-d’oeuvre are executed with a perfection and smoothness 
 which no connoisseur can listen to without delight. The per- 
 formances generally occupy about two hours and a half quality , 
 not quantity, being alone considered in the progra^e— an 
 example worthy imitation at most other concerts both m Pan* 
 and elsewhere. Numerous miscellaneous concerts take place 
 during the season, at which nearly all the leading mu^cians 
 from every country may be heard in succession, the suffrages 
 of the Parisian musical public being considered m indis- 
 pensable passport to enter the temple of Fame. They take 
 place morning or evening; the principal sa/le,s for hese 
 entertainments are at Herz’s, rue de la Victoire Pleyelp 
 rue Rochechoiiart ; Sax’s, rue St. Georges; Erards, rue du 
 Mail ; the Athenee, 17, rue Scribe, having more the appear- 
 ance of a theatre than of a concert-room, it will hold 
 about 800 persons. 
 
PLAGES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMEM, 
 
 The Ovplu'onistes are a musical society, known in Endand 
 from a vipt they paid to London some lime since ^iTev 
 occasionally give grand vocal and instrumental concerts 
 rather of the stentorian kind, the number of performerron 
 sucu occasions amounting to 6,000 or more. The Palais de 
 1 Industry (see p. \ 83) is generally chosen for these perform- 
 ances Of the permanent concerts, the most in vogue is M 
 Bessehevre s Concert des Champs Blysecs, which is held in 
 the summer season in the flower-garden situated between the 
 
 Shis 1 admission to 
 
 Cafes Concerts or Ciiantants, are establishments of recent 
 date, where the pleasures of the palate are enhanced by those of 
 the ear. They are the favourite evening lounge of the Parisian 
 bourgeois, who does not object to hearing favourite songs and 
 other music, while regaling himself. The artists are, as may 
 be guessed, of third-rate quality. There is no admission or 
 ticket required, hut the visitor is expected to partake of some 
 lefreshnient The Cafes Chantants mostly resorted to in winter 
 aie to be found on the Boulevard du Temple and in the 
 neighbourhood ol the Luxembourg. But the monster esta- 
 b ishments of the kind are the Eldorado, 4, Boulevard de 
 btrasbourg, easily distinguishable by its elegant facade adorned 
 wi 1 w 1 e LoiTiithian columns ; and the A Icazar, with a 
 Moorish front, 6, rue du Faubourg Poissonniere. The former 
 comprises a large coffee-room with refreshments at the ordinary 
 puces; but another entrance leads to a regular theatre, of a 
 circular form, with a stage and orchestra. The pit, and a 
 spacious gallery running all round and supported by Ionic 
 columns, are laid out with tables for refreshments at higher 
 amid volumes of smoke from the fragrant 
 wee , e blouse and frock-coat are conspicuous, interspersed 
 here and there with a muslin cap and merino gown, listening 
 
 le cornic songs, or snatches from favourite operas, retailed 
 to the audience by the performers. The ceiling is lofty, rest- 
 ing on Lormthian columns, and numerous lustres give addi- 
 tional brilliancy to the scene. The Alcazar is a place of the 
 same description, and equally elegant; only the hall is ob- 
 long and decorated in the Moorish style. The Batuclan, 
 Boulevard du Prince Eugene, also devoted to the same diver- 
 sions, IS remarkable for a very pretty facade in the Chinese 
 style, and the interior is very richly clecoralediii the sametaste. 
 
 Hee cafes concerts attract the public in the Champs Elysees 
 m summer They are the Alcazar and CaU des Ambassa- 
 deurs on the northern side of the Avenue des Champs Elysees, 
 and the Pavilion de I’Horloge on the opposite side. The 
 
BALLS, PUBLIC GARDENS. 475 
 
 visilors are accoinmodated in the open air, and the singers under 
 elegant kiosks, gaily painted and adorned with flowers. 
 
 balls, public gardens, &c. 
 
 Dancing being the favourite amusement with the Parisians 
 both in winter and summer, there is no quarter of the capital in 
 which ball-rooms suited to all classes are not to be found ; and 
 they are all numerously attended. 
 
 Winter-Balls. — This class is so intimately connected with 
 the diversions of the carnival, that we should find it difficult 
 to do honour to our subject without giving a faint idea of 
 that important season of Parisian pastime. 
 
 The Carnival (1) takes place during the five or six weeks 
 which precede Ash Wednesday, and is the favourite season 
 of masked and fancy balls both in private society and at 
 the various places of public amusement; masks appear in 
 the streets only on the Bimanche, the Lundi, and the Mardi 
 Gras, and Mi-Careme. On these days, crowds of persons in 
 fancy dresses, many of them masked, and exhibiting all sorts 
 of antics, appear in the streets, principally on the northern 
 Boulevards, and immense crowds in carriages, on horseback, 
 or on foot, assemble to witness the gaieties of the scene. The 
 Carnival was prohibited in 1790, and not resumed till Bona- 
 parte was elected first consul. Its restoration caused great joy 
 to the Parisians, and for some years nothing could exceed the 
 beauty and richness of the costumes displayed on these annual 
 festivals; at present, however, the zeal for them has considerably 
 subsided. The procession of the Bceuf Gras for ages past has 
 been celebrated at Paris on the Dimanche and Mardi Gras, 
 
 (0 The origin of tlie Carnival is traceable to the East. Egypt 
 had the festivals of the Ox Apis, whicli has given the idea of the 
 masquerade of the Bceuf Gras ; the Saturnalia and Lupercales of 
 Ancient Rome were the continuation of that system. St. Cyprian, 
 St. Clement of Alexandria, and St. Chrysostom, in vain condemned 
 this rude gaiety ; it introduced itself even into the bosom of llie 
 church ; and licentiousness at last went so far that Pope Inno- 
 cent III. issued decrees to reform its excesses. In the middle 
 ages the Carnival commenced on the tsth December, and corn- 
 ju'ised the fetes of Christmas, of the New Year, and of the Epi- 
 phany. The Renaissance gave another character to these fetes, 
 and the Carnival became an opportunity for intrigue. With 
 Louis XIV. the Carnival assumed a more solemn tone, and was 
 little more than a pretext for flattering the Great King. The 
 Regent, on the contrary, patronized the masked balls of the 
 Opera and of the Palais Royal, and the bourgeoisie mixed with 
 princes of the blood and the nobility. From that moment dates 
 the reputation of the balls of the Opera. The Revolution inter- 
 rupted these assemblages, which only recommenced in i805. 
 
476 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 when the prize ox, in a large car, preceded by music and 
 accompanied by a numerous train of butchers fantastically 
 dressed and on horseback, is led through the streets. The ox 
 is covered with embroidered trappings, and his bead adorned 
 with laurel; formerly he carried on his back a child, called Roi 
 des Bouchers, decorated with a blue scarf, and holding in 
 one hand a sceptre and in the other a sword. At present the 
 child and his suite of young women follow the Boeuf Gras 
 in a triumphal car, but without sceptre or sword. In 1849 
 this custom was discontinued but revived in 1851. (l) After 
 parading the streets, the masks repair to the various balls which 
 abound, and which we shall now describe. 
 
 The Public Masked Balls take place throughout the Carnival, 
 at almost all the theatres, &c. The most amusing and compa- 
 ratively select are at the Opera-house, where they begin at 
 midnight, and continue till daybreak. No stranger who visits 
 Paris at this season of the year should omit a visit to one of the 
 Bals masQues at this theatre, for it is difficult to imagine a 
 scene more curious and fantastic than that presented in the 
 Salle of the Grand Opera at a Carnival Ball. On these nights 
 the pit is boarded oyer and joins the stage ; the vast area of the 
 whole theatre forming a ball-room of magnificent proportions, 
 which, brilliantly lighted, and crowded with thousands of gay 
 maskers attired in every variety of colour and costume, forms 
 a sight not easily forgotten. The orchestra is first-rate, and is 
 commanded by the celebrated Strauss, Chef d'Orchestrc to 
 the Emperor. The amphitheatres and boxes, unless hired 
 to some party, are left open to the public. Gentlemen may go 
 to these balls in plain clothes, but ladies are only admitted in 
 masks or in costumes. The ticket costs 10 fr. To witness 
 this scene in perfection the visitor should wait until 1 2 or 1 
 o’clock, when the company is completely assembled and the vo- 
 taries of the dance are in full activity. On entering the vast sa//e 
 at such a moment the effect is scarcely imaginable, the gor- 
 geousness of the iinmense theatre, the glitter of the lights, the 
 nrilliancy and variety of the costumes, the enlivening strains of 
 the music, the mirth of the crowd, and, above all, the untiring 
 velocity with which the dancers whirl themselves through the 
 mazes of the waltz, polka, andmazourka, present an appearance 
 of bewildering gaiety not to be described. On closer examina- 
 tion it will be of course discovered that the strict etiquette 
 which presides over the aristocratic salons of the Faubourg St. 
 Germain is ocicasionally lost sight of in the exhilaration of the 
 moment, and that “ chilling reserve” is by no means the pre- 
 dominating characteristic of the fair who resort to this 
 (t) The weigh lof the ox averages from so-o to 9 oo kilogrammes. 
 
BALLS, PUBLIC GARDENS. 477 
 
 pleasantest of pandemoniums. It will be easily conceived that 
 if a visitor should take the ladies of his family to witness this 
 extraordinary display, he must take them to a box as mere 
 spectators, for to mingle with any of these too vivacious groups 
 would he something worse than indiscretion. After the hour 
 of supper (refreshment and suppers being obtainable), when the 
 champagne begins to exhibit its exciting effects, the scene na- 
 turally becomes still more warm and lively; but, though noisy 
 ' and boisterous, the immense throng is generally remarkable for 
 its good humour, a quality frequently put to the test by the 
 nature of the jests which are freely exchanged under the repub- 
 lican liberty of the mask. On some occasions of special en- 
 thusiasm the elevated crowd load the leader of the orchestra, 
 who is a great popular favourite, with the most frantic plau- 
 dits, and in more than one instance have insisted on carrying 
 him in triumph round the theatre, a ceremony performed in 
 grand procession by all the votaries of Terpsichore accom- 
 panied with uproarious acclamations only to be conceived by 
 those within hearing of the tempest. It is scarcely necessary 
 to add that at these balls the roue may find an endless va- 
 riety of pleasant adventures. (1) 
 
 (i) The first ball to which the public were admitted, without 
 distinction, on payment of money, was given at the Opera Jan. 
 2, 1716 , on a license granted by the Regent Duke of Orleans. 
 The price of the ticket was five livres. In I7i7, the exclusive 
 privilege of giving them was granted to the Opera ; notwithstand- 
 ing which balls were given at other theatres during the ten years 
 for which the privilege was granted. It was at the Opfira Comi- 
 que of that day that the idea of boarding over the pit to a level 
 with the stage, for the purpose of dancing, was first effected by 
 Father Sebastian, a Carmelite friar and mechanical genius, at 
 the suggestion of the Chevalier de Bouillon. In i7 46, balls had 
 so much increased in public favour, that the Director of the 
 Opera petitioned for a restriction of their number, and about 
 that time several persons were proceeded against for giving balls 
 with saleable tickets in private houses, some not of the best re- 
 putation. Towards the end of the last century the balls were 
 organised at the Opera nearly on the same plan as at the present 
 day, but with much less splendour ; and it is mentioned by a 
 contemporary as a matter of astonishment, that “ 22 lustres, 
 with 12 bougies each, 32 branches with 2 each, lo girandoles, 
 with five each, with flambeaux, lampions, and pots-i-feu to 
 light the approaches, were seen, with sixty musicians, half at 
 each end of the theatre.” Each masked ball at the Grand Op6ra 
 now occasions an expenditure of about i4o,ooo fr. for 980 per- 
 sons employed, i,850 wax-tapers, 210 oil-lamp5, 2,600 gas- 
 burners, and other requisites The public averages 5,000 persons, 
 spending in the aggregate about 65 , 000 tr. in masks, dresses, 
 bouquets, &c., exclusive of what is spent at the restaurants. 
 
478 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 Masked balls are also given at some of the minor theatres 
 but do not differ materially from the one just described, save 
 in the vastness and magnificence of the scene. ’ 
 
 Besides the masked balls, the Carnival and winter season are 
 ^nerally enlivened by other public balls, got up by subscrip- 
 tion, or under the patronage of various societies of artists. 
 
 The other ball-rooms of Paris are much inferior, but may be 
 interesting to an observer on account of the insight they afford 
 into the character of the Parisian population. The price of 
 admission is the only available standard by which to judge of 
 the refinement of the company that resorts to them, and even 
 that test is hardly to l>e depended on. Generally, however, it may 
 be stated that the blouse is banished, so that the majority may 
 fairly l>e considered to consistof clerks, shopmen, and workmen 
 of tlie better class. The softer sex, who are admitted free, at 
 most of the winter and summer balls are generally represented 
 by ladies whose pretensions to coyness are not conspicuous, 
 and the grisettes, so truly and amusingly painted in Paul de 
 Rock’s novels, usually muster in great force, under the pro- 
 tection of those to whom they have pledged their ephemeral 
 constancy . Among the ball-rooms of this description the 
 following may be noted as taking the lead ; 
 
 Salle Valentino, 251, rue St. Honore. — This is one of the 
 most celebrated ball-rooms of Paris, and certainly the most 
 diverting. It is divided into two compartments, the first of 
 which is about 90 feet long by 3G broad, and the second 9o 
 feet by «4. The architecture is a medley of the Moorish and 
 Greek ; the columns are gaily painted, and the recess, which 
 nins all round with seats ior the dancers, is backed by mirrors, 
 which by tbeir reflection add greatly to the brilliancy of the 
 scene. There are a billiard-table, a tir aupistolet, or shooting 
 gallery, a dynamometer for amateurs of muscular strength, and 
 tables where trifles may be raffled for. When full, the ball- 
 room presents a scene of extraordinary animation, and here 
 may be seen rare specimens of Parisian dancing. Whenever 
 the policemen’s backs are turned, the cancan reigns in all its 
 glory, to degenerate into a sober quadrille figure as soon as 
 danger is apprehended. As for the waltz and polka, the 
 stranger may expect to see every variety of embrace, not ex- 
 cepting the Cornish, nay, the ursine hug. The ladies’ toilettes 
 are far from rec/icrc/ie'es; and as for the gentlemen, they ate 
 not admitted en blouse. Admission 2 fr. to 3 fr. 
 
 Salon du W auxhall, 18, rue de la Douane. — It consists of a 
 large room, with a gallery for refreshments over the entrance, 
 opposite to which is the orchestra. The company partakes of 
 the character of the manufactming arrondisscments near whicli 
 
BALLS, PUBLIC GARDENS. 479 
 
 it lies; in other respects this place does not differ from the 
 former one ; the cancan now and then will peep through the 
 quadrille. Smoking is allowed. Admission 2 fr. 
 
 The Casino, 1 6, rue Cadet, is composed of two ball-rooms 
 at right angles to each other, with galleries all round, where 
 smoking is allowed. There are besides billiard-rooms, and a 
 tir au pistolet. The rules of court-etiquette are as much 
 ignored here as in the former places, and the only improvement 
 the visitor will remark is, that ladies smoke here with as much 
 aplomb as gentlemen. Admission from l to 3 fr. 
 
 The Pre aux Clercs, 85, rue du Bac, and the Tivoli d'Hiver, 
 35, rue de Crenelle, are places of the same description. 
 
 Summer Balls and Gardens. — In summer dancing takes 
 place within, or in the vicinity of, the capital, in gardens espe- 
 cially laid out for the purpose. They are only open two or 
 three nights in the week. We shall commence with the 
 
 Jardin Ma6^7/e, Avenue Montaigne, 93, which is that most 
 attended. A large circular space, with a pavilion for the or- 
 chestra in the centre, is reserved for the dancers, and lighted by 
 a profusion of gas-lights suspended from artificial palm trees, 
 while small shady circular bowers placed around afford the 
 dancers the means of repose, after the fatigues of the polka or 
 the waltz, apart from the intrusive eye of idle curiosity. A 
 snug corner is laid out with tables for refreshments; here 
 the sober Parisian may enjoy his bottle of beer and his cigar, 
 or the votary of Terpsichore treat his partner to a refreshing 
 lemonade, and recruit for subsequent exercise in the mazy 
 waltz. An immense covered saloon and rooms adjoining 
 afford the visitor a secure asylum from the malicious influence 
 of bad weather upon the sports of the evening. The company 
 at this elegant garden, we should state, generally comes under 
 the description of “the gayest of the gay,” and the licence of 
 the dance is frequently carried beyond the limits of propriety. 
 
 Jardin des Fleurs, near the Avenue des Champs filysees, 
 and Arc del’Etoile. A profusion of flowers of every kind, dis- 
 posed along the walks, in the recesses, under the groi^es, 
 everywhere greet the «ye of the visitor, while innumerable 
 lights twinkle among the grass, or shoot their slender flames 
 from under the vases and tazze filled with plants. A cafe and 
 restaurant afford every desirable refreshment ; there are besides, 
 for amateurs, a tir, or shooting-gallery, a jeu de bagues, 
 Chinese billiai'ds, 6cc. Admission 2 to 5 fr. 
 
 Chateau Rouge, or Nouveau Tivoli, 2, rue Neuve Clignan- 
 court, outside the Barriere Rodiechouart, is likewise very 
 iBuoh frequented, nothing having been neglected to win the good 
 graces of the public, and render it the favourite among all rival 
 
480 PLAGES OP PtlBLlC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 establishments of the kind (1). The visitor on entering finds a 
 large space handsomely adorned with statues bearing innumer- 
 able lights, where groups are assembled enjoying the cool of 
 the evening, and the enlivening strains emanating from an adjoin- 
 ing pavilion- Small circular tents and bowers around invite 
 the guest to taste of the good things of the buffet. Another 
 large space adjoining is devoted to dancing, whence a flight ■ 
 of steps descends into a third plot,' containing a.jeu de bagues, ' 
 various contrivances of billiard-tables, swings, &c., besides a 
 tir au pistolet et a la carabine, for the more bellicose of the 
 visitors. Fire-works are also among the attractions of this gar- 
 den, all parts of which communicate together by different walks, jl 
 over one of which a bridge is thrown, called the Pontdes Soupirs, 
 as unlike the “Bridge of Sighs” celebrated by the pen of Byron 
 as possible, though the name unluckily recalls the Venetian strain 
 of the greatest of modern poets, and by contrast throws an air of 
 ridiculous cockneyism (if such a word may be applied to Pari- 
 sian taste) over this part of the grounds. The name has, how- 
 ever, probably been adopted in allusion to the tender wailings 
 of love-stricken swains, who may select this spot to give vent 
 to their emotions. A spacious building contains rooms for 
 refreshments, and is surmounted by a terrace, from which a 
 general view may be taken of the lively scene below. The 
 tasteful arrangement of the illumination, contrasting with the 
 verdure of the trees and the gay animation of the crowds here 
 assembled, produces a very striking effect. We may note that 
 greenness is here, as indeed in all the public gardens, to be 
 specially guarded against, for, though verdancy is a very desi- 
 rable attribute of the trees, any display of that quality on the 
 part of a visitor may lead to serious inconvenience, and hence 
 we must warn the youthful English visitor against the too 
 seductive graces of the Lorette, who frequently displays no 
 mean tact in playing off her fascinations. 
 
 We cannot avoid mentioning one of the most amusing, 
 though far from select, places of public resort. It is the 
 Closerie des Lilas, Carrefour de FObservatoire, nearly 
 opposite the southern gate of the Garden of the Luxem 
 bourg. The ground is bordered by rows of leafy summer-houses, 
 admirably fitted for a quiet Ute-d-Ute. A large parterre, filled 
 with flowers, and enlivened by a jet d’eau, lies in front of a 
 spacious dancing-hall of Moorish design, tastefully painted, and 
 open on all sides, thus giving the advantage of airness, while 
 (i) This place is not devoid of historical recollections. The pa- 
 vilion was built by Henry IV. for Gabrielle d’Estr6es ; and in 1 8 1 5 
 llflje Due de Raguse established his head-quarters here. The 
 pr-eliminaries of the treaty of Paris were also signed on this spot. 
 
BALLS, PUBLIC GARDENS. 481 
 
 at the same lime any ill-natured interference on the part of the 
 weather is effectually prevenled. Adjoining it are five billiard- 
 tables, the never-failing Ur, and other pastimes. The company 
 chiefly consists of students and etudiantes, a title familiarly 
 given to those members of the softer sex who worship Minerva 
 under the garb of her youthful followers of the Quartier Latin. 
 
 The facilities now afforded by railways enable the Parisians 
 to attend also the balls given in the vicinity of the metropolis. 
 Of these, among the most conspicuous is perhaps that of 
 
 Asnieres . — This charming village, on the hanks of the 
 Seine, comprising a chateau built by Louis XV., which has. 
 with its park, fallen into private hands, is one of the spots 
 most frequented in summer by the pleasure-hunting Parisians 
 of either sex. The chateau consists of two wings, with a grace- 
 ful central pavilion ; the design is simple but elegant, the 
 windows lofty, and the sculpture in the taste prevalent under 
 that reign. The park is of considerable extent, prettily laid 
 out, with gravel walks alternately winding through clusters of 
 fine trees and spacious grass plots, and ultimately penetrating 
 into a shady grove, affording that wicked demon. Opportunity, 
 ample space for laying his wily snares. Here, as in all other 
 places of the kind described above, are the never failing diver- 
 sions of the swing, the jeu de bagues, Chinese billiard-tables, 
 etc., while the Mazurka and Redowa enliven the open spaces, 
 and graceful kiosks and temples afford refreshment and repose. 
 The illumination is, as usual, tastefully arranged, and contri- 
 butes greatly to the enchantment of the scene. 
 
 Other balls and f4te$, of a description similar to the above, 
 and easy of aceess by railway, are given at Enghien, Sceaux, 
 St. Cloud, Rambouillet, and Montmorency. These rural f4tes 
 are exceedingly pretty, and the stranger will find them very 
 well worth the trouble of the excursion. The days vary, 
 but are easily learned from the bills posted up in different 
 parts of the town. 
 
 As a general observation, we may remark that the character 
 of the French population is nowhere seen to more advantage 
 than at places of this description. -They cannot, however, 
 properly be recommended ' as fitting places for an English 
 lady to visit, unless well attended and incognito. 
 
 Rastkingues. — This is a popular and rather contemptuous 
 name given to the lower sort of balls which take place in the 
 gardens or eating-houses on the exterior boulevards ; but since 
 the extension of Paris to the fortifications, their chief attraction 
 for the lower classes, the cheapness of wine, has disappeared, 
 and they have consequently lost in importance. Nevertheless, 
 
 31 
 
482 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 the lover of living pictures in the Flemish style should not 
 omit a stroll on a Sunday evening to these places, where he 
 will witness more than one characteristic scene. Crowds of 
 workmen with their wives or sweethearts fill the principal 
 streets, lined with ginger-bread stalls, and ambulant cooks, 
 selling pancakes, fried potatoes, or similar delicacies, while a 
 fiddle or street-organ will at intervals break through the universal 
 din of talk and laughter that fills the air. The gay lights at the 
 entmnce to the bastringues and guinguettes, or eating-houses, 
 enliven the scene. As one of the better kinds of these places we 
 may mention the Jardin de Paris, at Montrouge. These esta- 
 blishments were originally very inferior and cheap, but some of 
 them are now patronised hy a better class. The houses which 
 sell only wine and liquors are denominated guinches. 
 
 PUBLIC FESTIVALS. 
 
 Public annual festivals have existed in Paris under all go- 
 vernments ; but the period varied according to the different 
 dynastic or republican events intended to be celebrated. 
 The period now fixed upon is the 15th of August, the fete-day 
 of Napoleon I. The Place de la Concorde, so admirably 
 fitted for such a purpose, and the Place du Trone, form the 
 nucleus of such festivals. The obelisk is generally used 
 to great advantage for the purposes of decoration, with 
 that peculiar taste and elegance for which the French 
 nation is justly celebrated. In the Champs de Mars there 
 are rope-dancers, buffoons, orchestras for dancers, mdts de co- 
 cagne, and stages for dramatic representations. In the evening 
 the avenues and walks are illuminated, as well as the garden of 
 the Tuileries, and fireworks take place generally upon a very 
 magniticent scale. This species of exhibition being a great fa- 
 vourite with the French, the art of preparing them has been 
 carried to a high degree of perfection. These f(des draw 
 numbers of strangers to the capital, not only from the pro- 
 vinces, but from England, and other neighbouring countries, 
 and certainly no foreigner, who would see Paris and its vast 
 population in perfection, can ever witness either under a more 
 agreeable aspect than on the occasion of a general fSte. On 
 these days Paris may literally be said to “don her best” and 
 the immense multitudes which crowd every place devoted to 
 the amusement of the public are not more remarkable for their 
 numbers, than for the gaiety and good humour they almost 
 invariably display. Provisions and wine were formerly dis- 
 tributed, but the confusion and drunkenness that ensued in- 
 duced the authorities to decide that the distribution should in 
 future be made privately, to poor families, by the mayors, 
 
REVIEWS, HORSE RACES. 483 
 
 aided by the members oi the Bureaux de Bienfaisance. (i) 
 REVIEWS. 
 
 From the military character of the French nation, and the 
 great number of troops forming the garrison of Paris, reviews 
 frequently take place; they are generally in the Court of the 
 Tuileries, or in the Champ do Mars. 
 
 SPORTS. 
 
 Horse-Races. — The sports of the turf have within a lew 
 years become much more general among tlie Parisian gentry 
 than formerly, and great attention is now devoted to the im- 
 provement of the breed of horses. Races or steeplechases take 
 place annually from Maich to July, and in September and 
 October at Longchamps (see p. 488), Vincennes, Chantilly, 
 La Marche, Versailles, and Foniainebleau. Some of the prizes 
 at these six places are awarded by the French Jockey Club, 
 also called the SocAete d’ Encouragement pour V Amelioration 
 des Chevaux en France, consisting of about 300 members 
 (see p. 14). At the summer meeting of Longchamps, which 
 takes place between the English Epsom and Ascot meetings, 
 many of the races are open to horses from all countries. 
 Here the Grand Prix de Paris, a kind of international 
 “Derby” founded in 1863 for three-year-olds, is run for. 
 The stakes consist of 100,000 fr., half of which contributed 
 by the City, and the remainder by the five great railway 
 companies ; to which are added a work of art of suitable 
 value, given by the Emperor, and the entries of 1 ,000 fr. 
 each. The time and amount of prizes are announced before- 
 hand in the journals, and full original reports of the races 
 given in Galignani’s Messenger. The Jockey Club keeps a 
 stud-book, and publishes a racing calendar. (2) Its annual 
 revenue from subscriptions is about 305,000 fr. The princi- 
 pal racing establishments are at Chantilly, and a large por- 
 tion of the population of that town consists of English 
 trainers, jockeys, and grooms employed there and residing 
 with their families. 
 
 Jeux de Paume (Tennis-Courts). — There used to be several 
 buildings appropriated to this exercise ; the only one now 
 
 (1) Some oftlie most costly fetes given in Paris were : the co- 
 ronation of the Emperor, i, 745,040 fr.; the marriage of Marie 
 Louise, 2,670,932 fr.; the birtli of the King of home, ooo,ooo fr. ; 
 the baptism of the UuKe of Bordeaux, o68,ooo fr. ; the fete of the 
 Trocadero, soo,ooofr.; the coronation of Charles X., i,i04,097 
 francs; the marriage of the Duke of Orleans, 2 , 800 ,ooo fr. 
 
 (2) The sums granted in France for encouraging the im- 
 provement of the breed of horses amount to 4i8,ooo fr. a-year. 
 The .lockey club, whicli is now entrusted wilh the sole direction 
 
484 
 
 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 ill existence is the new building on the north-western terrace 
 of the garden of the Tuileries (see p. 152.) 
 
 JouTES suR lEau. — The watermen of the Seine fonnerly 
 amused the people with rowing and sailing matches. To these 
 were added mythological representations, with naval com- 
 bats, &c. Aquatic sports are still given at most of the fetes of 
 villages on the banks of the Seine. Societies of regattas exist 
 at Paris, Asnieres, and Argenteuil. 
 
 Mats de Cocagne. — This exercise is a favourite amusement 
 at public ftHes. It consists of a greased mast, go feet in height, 
 from which prizes, such as watches, silver forks and spoons, sil- 
 ver cups, &c., are suspended, which fall to the lot of those 
 who succeed in reaching them. 
 
 Skating.— The best places for this exercise are the lakes of 
 the Bois de Boulogne, the basins of the Tuileries, &c. 
 Between the Jardin d’Acclimitation (see p. 493) and the Porte 
 de Madrid of the Parc de Boulogne there is a basin rented by 
 a skating-club. 
 
 Rifle-matches. — They take place annually under the name 
 of Tir National, at Vincennes (see p. 583.) Bow and cross- 
 bow practice also form part of the sport. These matches 
 generally take place in August. Subscribers pay from 4 to 
 20 fr. for every series of five shots, according to the arms used. 
 
 Cricket. — This game is played on the pelouse or bowling- 
 green of Madrid (see p. 493). Apply at No. 3, rue d’Agues- 
 seau, to the Secretary of the Paris Cricket Club . 
 
 PROMENADES. 
 
 Of all the promenades within Paris, the Champs Elys^es is 
 the largest. 
 
 of the Government races, grants prizes for those established in tlie 
 departments, to encourage the breed of thorough-bred stock in 
 France. The Prefects of departments enjoy the “ Presidence 
 d’honneur” at Government races, and the superior functionaries 
 of the Haras act at them as the Government commissioners. 
 Three commissioners are appointed in each locality by the Mi- 
 nister, to receive the entries, prepare the ground, and superin- 
 tend the races ; they decide all questions without appeal, ex- 
 cept only in case of objections to the identity or qualification of 
 a horse. Such objection may be referred to a Central Commission 
 of seven members, silting at Paris. Persons guilty of fraud 
 may be excluded from the races for a given time. Except in case 
 of an express condition to the contrary, tlie only horses allowed 
 to run for the Government stakes are those foaled and bred in 
 France, up to the age of two years, and whose descent is 
 traced in the English or French stud books. For racing pur- 
 poses France is divided into three great zones : Ihe North, South, 
 and West ; and certain events in each are exclusively resei'ved 
 
PROMENADES. 
 
 485 
 
 The Garden of the Tuileries, a delightful walk, see p. 150. 
 The Garden of the Palais Royal is generally frequented 
 by the inhabitants of the centre of the town (see p. 208). 
 
 The Garden of the Luxembourg, which has recently under- 
 gone very great embellishments, and received many new sta - 
 
 for horses bred in that particular division. The races run at 
 Paris and Chantilly are however open to all, but with advan- 
 tages of weight in some instances, for horses from the South and 
 West. Races take place in France in about 40 localities, the 
 principal of which are: Angers, in June; Rouen, Nancy, and 
 Amiens, in July ; Caen, Le Pin and Monlins, in August ; and 
 Marseilles, in November. The steeple-chases in the neighbour- 
 hood of Paris take place at Vincennes, La Marche, and Maisons- 
 Laffilte. The slakes granted by Government are divided into 
 two categories, known as Pvix classes au reglemerit, and Prixnon 
 classes, and the Minister decides every year on the division and 
 conditions of the stakes which are non-classes. The first cate- 
 gory of stakes is divided into four classes, namely: ist class, 
 the Great Imperial stakes for horses that have won those stakes 
 before ; 2 d class, the Imperial stakes for horses that have never 
 won the ist class stakes ; 3d class, the principal stakes for horses 
 that have never won a first or second class stake ; 4 th class. 
 Special Stakes for horses of all sorts that have never won a lirsi, 
 second, or third class Stake ; the value of the plalesgiven varies 
 from 2,000 fr. to (>,ooofr.; (here are besides others of larger 
 amount, the principal being the Pria: de I' [mperatrice oi' i5,ooo fr., 
 and the Prix de I'Empereur of 10,000 fr. run for at the Paris 
 spring meeting; the Prix de Diane or French Oaks of io,ooo fr., 
 and the Prix du Jockey Club or French Derby, of 20,ooo fr. at the 
 Chantilly spring meeting ; the Grand Prix de Paris of 100,000 fr., 
 and the Prix de I'Empereur of 10,000 fr. at the Paris summer 
 meeting; the Pria; de I’Empereur of 10,000 fr. at the Chantilly 
 autumn meeting ; and the Grand Prixde I’Empereur o( 20,000 h\ 
 at the Paris spring meeting. In every case the amount of the 
 entries, varying from 50 fr. to i,0oo fr., is added. In 1864 tlie 
 total amount of money to be contended for at Paris and Chan- 
 tilly was 452,000 fr., divided as follows: Paris spring meeting, 
 six days’ racing, 30 prizes, 134,000 fr.; Paris summer meeting, 
 two days, 10 prizes, 145,000 fr.; Paris autumn meeting, three 
 days, 13 prizes, 75,000 fr.; Chantilly spring meeting, three days, 
 15 prizes, 65 , 000 fr. ; Chantilly autumn meeting, 10 prizes, 
 32,500 fr. The Government also grants, under certain specified 
 conditions, and in localities where it may appear useful, primes 
 de dressage for carriage and riding horses. The number of race- 
 horses now under training in France is four hundred. There are 
 i»4 jockeys and 58 trainers of race-horses now in France, the 
 greater part of both being English. In 1810 France had 
 2,498,338 horses, in 1812, 2,244,691; in 1823, 2,423,712 ; in 
 1 840, 2,8 18,495 ; and in 1838, 3,i52,ioo. From a report drawn 
 up by Gen. Fleury, Director of the Imperial Rrceding-studs, it 
 appears that in 1861, no less than 809,800 fr. was given as prizes 
 
48 6 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 tues by eminent sculptors, is the principal promenade on the 
 southern bank of the Seine (see p. 37 'J). For 
 
 The Garden of Plants, with its menagerie, collections, 
 etc., see p. 427. 
 
 The Boulevards, interior and exterior, are resorted to by 
 Parisians of all ranks, and form by day or night amusing and 
 healthy walks. The Boulevard des Italiens is tlie most fashion- 
 able (see pp. 13, 36). 
 
 The Parc de Monceaux is described atp. 204. 
 
 The Parc de Vincennes has now become one of the finest 
 spots on the outskirts of Paris isee p. 584). 
 
 The Parc DEsBrn ES Giiau.mont deserves a visit (see p. 451.) 
 
 Bois or Parc de Boulogne. — This wood, outside the for- 
 tifications, and comprising a surface of 87 3 hectares, bears the 
 name of a neighbouring village. Before 1789 its trees were 
 dying from age. The revolutionary axe in part cleared it ; 
 whatever was then spared was felled in 1814, to make pali- 
 sades against the approach of the allied armies. In July, 1815, 
 after the capitulation, the English under Wellington encamped 
 here. It has since grown again into a thick and beautiful 
 wood. The Bois ce Boulogne, now the property of the citj'- of 
 Paris, has been long known as a place for duelling and suicides. 
 It is distinguished for the annual promenade de Longchamp, 
 and is now, like Hyde Park in London, the most fashionable 
 place of resort for i drive or a walk, where the most splendid 
 equipages and fined horses of the capital are displayed ( see p. 
 186). The annexed map will be found A'ery useful in di- 
 recting the visitor lo the most interesting spots. 
 
 The best way of visiting this delightful wood, in order fully 
 to enjoy its varied scenery, so admirably turned to account by 
 the engineers MM Vare, Alphand, and Rarillet Deschamps, 
 entrusted with the improvements Avhich have been going on 
 here since l8 52 -'is to enter it by the Avenue de I’lmpi- 
 ratrice, 3900 feei long and 300 wide, which, commencing 
 from the Rond ’oint of the Triumphal Arch of TEtoile 
 (see p. 191), cxt'nds to the Porte Dauphine, the nearest 
 city gate on that sde. Continuing along the road exactly op- 
 posite to this Aveiue, a few slight turns to the left will bring 
 the visitor at once to the borders of the new lakes, the great 
 
 for flat races. Heds are now suppressed for the six Imperial 
 Stakes, and ihe dftances^ have been increased from 4,ooo to 
 4,800 metre?. In <864, in and about Paris, 4-42 races Avere 
 contested, the status amoiuiting to i, 537, 770 fr., divided among 
 5i winners. The lofsci cfutei'«d for I8G4 were iQO, comjjrising 
 70 English, 39 Frn?eb, o German u American, and 4 Italian 
 horses. 
 
PLAN OF THE BOIS DE BOULOGNE AND ITS DEPENDENCIES. 
 
 Sure sues 
 
 Piiteaux 
 
 ToiircU 
 
 n^c/uunfii 
 
 podTOTUe CIC 
 
 '^^netnctiJr 
 
 V,1U I. 
 
 RothsoKild r' 
 
 *«ims 
 
 SlADisn 
 
 Iftarcadere 
 
 Artesien 
 
 Staliaa 
 
 Jrrtft Thierry friret 
 
BOIS DE BOULOGNE. 487 
 
 atlraction of the day. The first of these lakes, which are fed 
 by the Artesian well of Passy (see p. 190), is 3600 feet in length 
 lind 750 broad, and encompasses two islands, connected by a 
 rustic wooden bridge, and occupying together an extent of 2400 
 !feet. Here art and taste have conspired to charm the eye with 
 jlho most picturesque scenery. At the southern extremity, 
 iopposite the islands, two charming cascades (1), one of which 
 (is now popularly called La Source, pour their waters, bound- 
 ling from rock to rock, or gushing from crevices skilfully ar 
 ranged, into the lake beneath. Winding paths, emerging 
 from the cool fir-groves scattered around, intersect the rich 
 turf which clothes the banks down to the water’s edge. On 
 the western side of the smaller island we see a pretty aviary, 
 and from the balcony of an elegant kiosk, called the Exhlrc, 
 situated on a promontory which terminates the smaller island, an 
 enchanting view is obtained on a fine summer’s day of the gay 
 scene around. The rich equipages enlivening the carriage-road 
 that winds around the lake — the crowds of persons of all ranks 
 enjoying the cool shade on the iron benches provided for their 
 convenience, or sauntering along the gravel-walks — children 
 frolicking about in the height of merriment and glee, and 
 the boats plying to and fro with their white canvass awnings 
 shining in the sun (2), form a maze of bustle and animation 
 most pleasing to the eye. It is the evening especially, a little 
 after sunset, the visitor should prefer to take his stand on this 
 balcony, and see the gay barks, with their coloured lanterns, 
 gliding along and crossing each other in every direction, for- 
 cibly recalling to mind the Queen of the Adriatic, with her 
 innumerable gondolas flitting about the point of Quintavalle, 
 under the terrace of the Giardino Francese. On the larger 
 island a Swiss cottage, the Chalet des hies, near the bridge, 
 affords refreshment to the weary ; in summer, theatrical trifles 
 are performed here. At the opposite end of this island we may, 
 reposing at our ease in a pretty trellised summer-house, gaze 
 on the “wide expanse” of water before us. 
 
 (0 The lakes are also fed hy the reservoirs of Chaillot through 
 an iron pipe, 16 inches in diameter, passing under the Porte 
 de la Muetle, a villa (see p. i9i) lying within the fortifications. 
 
 (2) Tne charge is one franc for one person; for large parties, 
 it is less in proportion. There are three landing places along the 
 hanks of the lake, hut only one on the larger island, opposite the 
 Swiss cottage. To cross over to the islands, the charge is only 
 !>o centimes, return included. The visitor, wishing to he landed 
 on the opposite or western hank on leaving the islands, should 
 hail IliC boat at the landing-place on that side, and llien repair 
 to the Chalet and wait for it, hut he must then arm himself 
 with patience. 
 
^88 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 Leaving the islands for terra firma, snug little Swiss cot- 
 tages may be seen peering here and there from behind the 
 trees, well provided with beer and common wine for the 
 thirsty. The carriage-road above-mentioned, which forms a 
 circuit of not less than five miles, brings us to the second 
 lake, separated from the former by a neck of land, called 
 CdTvefouT dss Ccisccides, where iron chairs may be hired 
 at a charge of 3 or 4 sous. This second lake is much 
 smaller, and less attractive than the other, but likewise fur- 
 nished with boats for the accommodation of the tourist. 
 At its further end a hill, or mound, called the Butte Morte- 
 mart, and also Mont St. Bernard, graced with a cedar 
 at its top, (1) commands a good view of both the lakes. 
 We must not omit to mention, that the dendrologist will tind 
 ample scope for observation in this park, where some of the 
 rarest trees have been planted of late, including fourteen or 
 fifteen kinds of oak (the cork-tree among the number), as 
 perhaps, of the pine, the beech, the plantain, 6cc., 
 while the islands are adorned with various plants of the warmer 
 climates, requiring considerable nursing, such as the yucca, 
 the musa, begoma, aloes, rhopis, 6cc. Mexico has furnished 
 the Taxodiuinsempervirens, Van Diemen’s Land the Euca- 
 lyptus and Banksia, Jamaica the sugar-cane, China the Dieht- 
 tron, and Algiers the banana. From the Mont St. Ber- 
 ncucl several walks or avenues branch out in as many direc- 
 tions. On taking the third to the right (if facing the lakes) 
 the visitor will reach a pond, called the Mare d’Auteuil, a 
 pleasant spot, where vegetation has attained a more venerable 
 age witness the huge weeping willow that dips its branches 
 in the water beneath ; nor would the visitor think himself 
 here so close to Paris, were it not for the fortifications that 
 mar the illusion. From this spot a few steps to the right 
 will take him to Auteuil (see p. 1 89), by the gate of that name 
 where he may either return to Paris through the village, or 
 take his ticket for the Porte Maillot or Rue St. Lazare at the 
 railway station close at hand to the left. 
 
 But if it be not his intention to leave the Park so soon, the 
 Boulogne road (see Map) will take him to the pretty village 
 of that name, and, continuing his walk, he will soon arrive at 
 the vast race-course called the 
 
 Hippodrome de Longchamps, granted by the City to the 
 Societe d^ Encouragement or .Tockey-Club (see p. 483). Tt 
 contains C2 hectares (153 acres) being 1,500 metres in length 
 
 • (0, This cedar was brought from Neuilly early in i 855 , while 
 in lull blossom. It weighed upvmrds of is tons, including the 
 mass of earth which clung to its roots. 
 
BOIS DE BOULOGNE. 489 
 
 by 300 in breadth, and was inaugurated on the 26th of April, 
 1857. There are four stands (or tribunes, as they are called 
 in France), two on each side of the Emperor’s pavilion, which 
 stands alone, and is splendidly fitted up, containing a saloon 
 and sitting-room, opening on a platform from which a double 
 staircase descends to the race- course. The platform is pro- 
 tected by an awning resting on six cast-iron pillars, the whole 
 surmounted by a gabled roof in the style of an ornamental 
 Swiss cottage. A square terrace for the Emperor’s suite 
 rises behind, with a square tower containing the staircase. 
 The pavilion, like the other stands, has an entrance on the 
 side towards the Seine, but the Emperor generally prefers 
 ascending the double staircase in front. The two stands 
 flanking this pavilion, from which they are separated by pas- 
 sages, are called les gruncles tribunes, and are each 35 meties 
 in°length ; they contain ten rows of seats, six of which are 
 protected by a vast awning supported by cast-iron pillars, and 
 divided, in thewestern stand, into seven compartments, which 
 are reserved for the Minister of Agriculture, Commerce, and 
 Public Works, the Prefect of the Seine, the Prefect of Police, 
 the Municipal Council, the members of the Cercle Imperial, 
 and other great cercles of Paris (see p. 14), and lastly to sub- 
 scribers and persons provided with tickets giving admission 
 to the weighing place. The compartment nearest the Em- 
 peror’s pavilion is reserved for the members of the Adminis- 
 tration des Haras. The eastern stand has fewer divisions, 
 and is set apart for the members of the Jockey Club, who have 
 specially arranged a compartment for ladies. The roofs ^ of 
 these two stands are surmounted by terraces accommodating 
 about 400 persons each. The extreme lateral stands con- 
 tain eight rows of covered seats each, but have neither unco- 
 vered ones nor terraces above. All these stands are entered 
 from an enclosure on the side facing the Seine ; the middle 
 ones are flanked by square towers containing stairs leading 
 to the terraces and galleries which give access to the seats in 
 front. The galleries on the first floor are also accessible by 
 central flights of stairs descending to the enclosure; The 
 ground-floors contain a weighing-room, a saloon for ladies, 
 another for the members of tlie Jockey Club, a third for 
 refreshments, a guard-room, etc. The buildings are con- 
 ceived in a style of elegant rural architecture. The lacegiound 
 is infinitely superior to that of the Champ de Mars, and much 
 larger than the adjoining Ancien Sport. It is so arranged that 
 it can be turned into two courses, one of about 1,900 meties, 
 and the other of about 3,000. The stands are situated so as 
 to avoid the glare of the sun, and being near the first turning, 
 
490 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 they allow of a straight run home of between 800 and 900 
 meties. In fiont, as at Chantilly, a wide sloping space is 
 railed in, forming an enclosure which is the favourite resort 
 of spoi ting chaiacteis. The course commands splendid views 
 of the Hois de Boulogne, M. de Rothschild’s villa, the hills of 
 St. Cloud, Meudon, and Bellevue, MontValerien, the Seine, 6cc. 
 Ready access to the course is provided for carriages and horse- 
 men ; and spectators can reach the ground by the right bank 
 railway to Suresnes, the railway to Auteuil, the tramway 
 and omnibuses to Boulogne, the (minibuses to Neuilly, 
 and lastly by steam-boats running froW the Pont de la Con- 
 corde. (1) 
 
 Close to the race-course, and commanding an excellent view 
 of it at its western extremity, we see, on an elevated base- 
 ment, the Moulin de la Galette, a remnant of the old Abbey 
 of Longchamps, dating from the 13th century. This relic, a 
 picturesque round tower crowned with a peaked roof, has a 
 most romantic appearance. Its basement, the old walls of 
 which I'est upon mossy rocks mantled with ivy, is encircled 
 by a moat crossed by a bridge of unhewn stone whence a 
 flight of rugged stairs ascends to the top, which overlooks 
 the whole race-course aiid scenery around. The moat is fed 
 by the water of the adjoining ponds ; and the sails of the 
 mill, when driven by the wind, work a lifting pump by ma- 
 chinery within, by means of which the water is drawn up 
 from the moat and conveyed back to the Cascade (see below), 
 whence it originally came. Another tower, on the opposite 
 side of the road, also forming part of the abbey in former 
 days, adds to the romance of the scenery. A rustic habita- 
 tion used as a guard-house is close by, while others of the 
 same description raise their thatched roofs above the clumps 
 of trees with which the grounds are artistically interspersed, 
 so as successively to reveal to the eye, now the Mont Valdrien,’ 
 and now St. Cloud, Meudon, Suresiie, or Boulogne. Four 
 poplars, marking the tomb of a Russian colonel, who died 
 here in 1814, have been religiously respected, and stand alone 
 as before. A road, more than 7 miles in length, and 22 
 yaicls bi’()ad, follows the banks of the Seine, connecting 
 Neuilly with St. Cloud. The suspension bridge of Suresne, with 
 
 (1) The City has granted tlie ground to llie Jochey Club for 50 
 years from 1857, and for tlie same period the management 
 ol the Government Autumn Races, which u.sed to lake place in 
 tlie Champ de Mars. In return the Societe d' Encouragement has 
 engaged to employ the whole of Ihe nett receipts from the letting 
 ot places, &c., at races, in giving new stakes, or in(rca.sing those 
 now existing • and has accepted of a certain tariff for places. 
 
BOIS DE BOULOGNE. 491 
 
 the wooded islands of Puleaux, connected with the park by 
 rustic bridges over the narrow arm of the Seine that separates 
 them from the right hank, contribute to enliven the scene. 
 
 Returning by the Suresne road to a spot where five roads 
 meet, the eye is at once attracted l)y the picturesque 
 
 Cascade de Longchamps, now one of the favourite places of 
 resort for visitors to the Park. An artificial mound, 180 feet 
 in breadth and 42 feet high, raises its craggy front above a 
 basin bordered with rocks; a vast sheet of water issuing fiom 
 a cavern pierced through the body of the mound, falls into 
 the basin from a height of 27 feet, while laterally two minor 
 cascades are seen picturesquely threading their way through 
 various crevices. An intricate rocky passage winds its way 
 under the cascade, leading the visitor through many mock- 
 iierils, charmingly imagined, to the top of the same wateifall, 
 where he may enjoy a view of the pretty lake by which it is 
 fed, and which also displays a picturesque island m the 
 centre. ( 1 ) Having explored the wonders of the cascade, and 
 perchance taken some refreshment at the cotfee-house close by, 
 we may strike into the Alice de Longchamps, and on reaching 
 the point where it crosses the Alice de la Reine Marguerite (see 
 Plan), follow a carriage-way to the right, which leads to the 
 
 Croix Catelan, a venerable but mutilated relic, which has 
 outlived all the political disturbances and revolutions of FrMce 
 since the 14th century. It is a pyramid erected by Philippe 
 le Bel, to conimcniorate the murder of a celebrated troubadour 
 named Ariiauld de Catelan, whom he had invited to Paris 
 from the court of Beatrix of Savoy. (2) The upper part of 
 
 (1) The snrpiiis water from the large lake is received heie 
 through a small rivulet crossingihe Mare aux Biches, ar\d collected 
 ill a vast basin, 7 ,ooo square metres in surface, ifthich will hold 
 10,000 cubic metres of water. When in full play the cascade 
 emits 12,000 cubic metres per hour. The rock -work consists ot 
 o 000 cubic metres of stone, brought from the forest of Fontaine- 
 bleau, and re-arranged as nearly as possible in the order in \\ hieh 
 it stood there. The water, when it has reached the lower basin, 
 is conveyed in a meandering rivulet to the ponds formed in the 
 nciuhbourliood of the new race-course. 
 
 ( 2 ) Tlie king had sent an escort of men-at-arms to conduct the 
 troubadour safe tlirough the Rois de tioulogne, then intested with 
 robbers. The bard having, in an unguarded moment, boasted 
 before these men of the ricii treasures of wbich he was flic beaier 
 of to the king, they resofved to murder him, and executed their 
 bloody purpose at ibis spot. To their morliilcaliou, the rich 
 sures they expected to find turned out to be nothing nioie than 
 a few bottles of valuable essences of Provence manufacture. They 
 returned to the royal palace, and gave out that they had waited 
 in vain for Catelan, w'lio had not arrived. Seareli was made 
 
4 J 2 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 the monument is broken off ; but the arms of Provence and of 
 Catelan are still distinguishable on the pedestal. 
 
 Adjoining this is the Pre Catela7i, where balls and theatri- 
 cal representations used to be given, but which is now much 
 shorn of its greatness. Nevertheless the walks are preserved 
 concerts and other performances are sometimes given and a 
 bowl of good milk may be had at the Swiss dairy. ’ 
 
 On leaving this spot, and proceeding eastwards,^ the stran°-er 
 will soon reach the lakes again, and may, if so disposed 
 continue his walk along the banks, until he reaches the Parc 
 aux Batons (see Map), an enclosed ground where abun- 
 dance of deer may be seen sporting about on the lawn. Here 
 he load leads to the Porte de la Muette, entering which and 
 following the fortifications, we soon arrive at the great’ nur- 
 sery for plants (see p. 190) of the City of Paris, and its ice- 
 liouses ( 1 ) . This spot was selected because, in boring the Ar- 
 tesian well close by (see p 190), a stratum of rock 52 feet 
 thick had been found, together with a bed of sand whicli ab- 
 sorbs moisture. These ice-houses are 230 feet long, 98 in 
 breadth, and 52 feet deep. They are divided into 10 compart- 
 ments, each large enough to contain 1,000,000 kilogrammes 
 ot ice, of which however only one half is available, there 
 being a waste of 50 per cent. 
 
 Should the visitor prefer entering the Parc de Boulogne by 
 the 1 orte Maillot (see p. 193), or by the Porte de Neuilly fui- 
 tJier on, he will find the choicest wood-scenery that can well be 
 met with 111 the neighbourhood of a great capital, and may give 
 himself up to quiet meditation ; or, if he be otherwise disposed, 
 e may enjoy a delightful ride either in a carriage or on 
 oiseback. A more Arcadian style of locomotion, in the 
 shape of a donkey, is often preferred by the rising generation, 
 to be had on hire, at 1 fr. per hour, at the Porte Maillot. 
 
 To enjoy the Park de Boulogne on this side, a slight know- 
 ledge of Its general topography will be of advantage. From 
 the Porte Maillot a long avenue, called Avenue de Lonqchamps 
 two miles in length, extends as far as Longchamps (see p. 
 186), meeting the Allee de la Heine Marguerite, of more than 
 equal length, about half way. The latter, extending from 
 
 murderers would most prolmbly 
 have escaped discovery had it not been for one of them who had 
 to perfume his hair with one of those essences, 
 which was so rare that he could not have procured it in Paris. 
 
 “wakened, the guilty parties were apprehended, 
 confessed their crime, and were condemned to the .stake. 
 
 .ni I out at the rate of 2 fr. per 
 
 iOO Kilos. The consumption per-annum is 12,000,000 lbs. 
 
JARDIX D’aCCLIMATATION. 493 
 
 Neullly to Boulogne, skirls the pretty village of St. James, a 
 cluster of villas near the former gate. The Imperial breeding 
 stud is kept here, in buildings which are now receiving con- 
 siderable additions. Close to this was 
 
 Madrid, a villa built by Francis I., after the model of that 
 where he was kept in captivity by Charles V. It was demo- 
 lished under Louis XVI., and its place is now occupied by a 
 restaurant. Close to this is 
 
 Bagatelle, a beautiful villa, adjoining the Parc de Bou- 
 logne, and erected by Belanger, in consequence of a wager 
 between the Count d’ Artois and the Prince of Wales that the 
 house could not be built in 60 days ; it was finished in 58. It 
 is now the property of the Marquis of Hertford, who purchased 
 it for 3 13,000 fr. ; it is fitted up in a style of great elegance. 
 
 Jardin d’Acclimatation. — If, instead of turning to the left 
 at the end of the Avenue de ITmperatrice in order to reach the 
 Lakes, we turn to the right, we soon find ourselves before the 
 entrance to the delightful garden belonging to the Societe 
 Imperiale d’Acclimatation (see p. 106), now one of the chief 
 attractions of Paris. It lies close to the Porte des Sablons, 
 being that which immediately follows the Porte-Maillot. The 
 grounds comprise an area of 33 acres, beautifully laid out 
 in walks encircling tbe pens or enclosures where the quadru- 
 peds are kept, and which are arranged on the same plan as 
 those of the Garden of Plants, with picturesque little pavilions 
 or cots, containing the stables. Unlike the Garden of Plants, 
 however, this establishment only harbours such animals of 
 foreign origin as are fit to be domesticated ; so that the visitor 
 would in vain seek for the lion, tiger, or hyena, which are 
 hei'e replaced by the hemione, tapir, Chinese pig, zebu, yak, 
 kangaroo, lama, alpaga, and vicunna, besides various kinds of 
 sheep, goats, stags, antelopes, gazelles. See. The grounds are 
 intersected by a streamlet, dotted with islands, and spanned 
 by rustic bridges. Here various aquatic plants are grown, 
 while other rare specimens of the vegetable kingdom abound 
 on the surrounding grass-plots, such as the Spanish and Cali- 
 fornian firs, the Japanese Spirea Argcatca and Dcutzia Scabra ; 
 the Chinese plum-tree and Weigelia Rosea, the North-American 
 Virgilia Lutca, the Persian Syringa Laciniata, and the Greek 
 fir (Abies Regina Amalia), which grows to a height of 60 feet, 
 with a diameter of three feet at the base. Nor should we for- 
 get the hot-house, 300 feet long, and 9o in breadth, with its 
 romantic rivulet and grotto, surrounded with palm-trees and 
 other choice plants from tropical climes ; the Abyssinian Musa 
 with its gigantic blades, the Australian Dicksonia Antartica 
 with its outspreading fernlike leaves springing from a heavy 
 
494 PLACES OE PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 
 
 trunk ; the fan-shaped Latania liorbonica, and many others 
 which it would take too long to mention. Proceeding along 
 the enclosures which skirt the rivulets, swarming with various 
 kinds of fish from the piscicultural establishment of Iluningen, 
 besides ostriches, ducks, geese, and swans from Algeria, 
 Canada, Patagonia, Egypt, and other parts of the world, pre- 
 senting a scene of agreeable animation, we find to our 
 right the Aquarium., which, by the efforts of Mr. Alford 
 Lloyd, the contractor, and Mr. Wilson, the manager, has 
 become the chief attraction of the place. Of the fourteen 
 compartments which compose it, the first four are devoted to 
 fresh-water fish, such as trout, salmon, eels, carp, 6cc. The 
 habits of these fumy occupants may here be accurately watched, 
 whether to admire their almost transparent bodies, or to folloAV 
 their motions cither upwards to dart at some fly, or down- 
 wards, to rest themselves on the sand. The three next com- 
 partments are chielly tenanted by various kinds of actiniae, 
 or sea-anemones, some of extraordinary beauty, attached here 
 and there to the rocks with which the compartments are 
 lined. Among these strange creatures there are also some 
 echinodermata, such as sea-licdgehogs, star-fish, 5cc., quite as 
 sluggish as the anemones. The remaining compartments are oc- 
 cupied by zoophytes, Crustacea, mollusks, cephalopodes, 8cc. 
 Not far from this, there is an elevated artificial rock for the ga- 
 zelles, pierced with a grotto, from the crevices of which a good 
 view may be obtained of the surrounding scenery. The^ ob- 
 long building at the opposite end of the stream contains stables 
 with ten stalls for different quadrupeds of the larger sort, 
 including the celebrated aurochs or bison of Lithuania, and 
 a room for refreshments. On the opposite side of the stream 
 there is a semicircular amphitheatre, with 28 wired enclo- 
 sures for poultry ; and further on, opposite to a fine statue 
 ofDauhenton, the great naturalist, a vast aviary, consisting 
 of 10 wired cages, each provided with a little fountain and 
 shrubs, and tenanted by peacocks, pheasants, doves, the 
 Chinese Tragopan, the Columba cristata of Java, 8cc., 8cc. 
 The visitor should stay until after sunset, when the keepers 
 are busied in coaxing the birds into their respective roosting- 
 places. The number of eggs laid hereby the fowls is immense, 
 and the sale of them produced in 18 03 the sum of lo,ooo IT. 
 The sale of animals produced 105,000 fr. The last object of 
 importance on this side is a kokh, or silkworm nursery, where 
 experiments have been made for the acclimatization of the 
 Chinese and Japanese silkworms, hardier races than the com- 
 mon one. The garden and hot-houses are visible daily at the 
 charge of 1 fr. Carriages entering the grounds pay 3 fr. • 
 
ALFOKT. 
 
 -5 05 
 
 PART IV. 
 
 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 [For a list of conveyances, see Pages before Title J 
 
 ALFORT. — This village, two leagues from Paris, near the 
 confluence of the Seine and the Marne, is celebrated for a vete- 
 rinary school founded hy Bourgelat, in 17 G4. This establish- 
 ment possesses a library of domestic zoology, a cabinet of 
 comparative anatomy, and another of pathology. There are 
 also a botanical garden, hospitals for sick animals, a laboratory', 
 a pharmacy, ground for the cultivation of grasses, a school of 
 practical agriculture, a flock of sheep for experiment, a herd 
 of swine, a set of bee-hives, and an amphitheatre, where 
 lectures are delivered upon veterinary medicine and rural 
 economy. Pupils from the north of France are admitted at 
 Alfort upon the presentation of the Minister of Commerce and 
 Agriculture, either as boarders, at 3 GO fr. a-year, or as gra- 
 tuitous pupils. The establishment is endowed with sixty 
 demi-bourses for as many pupils nominated by the Prefect of the 
 Seine, and approved by the Minister. The Minister of War 
 also has 40 pupils in the school destined for veterinary service 
 in the cavalry. They are received from the age of 17 to 23, 
 and the duration of their studies is four years. They must ail 
 understand arithmetic, grammar, and smith’s work. The 
 number of pupils is limited to 300. Animals that require 
 treatment are admitted at a charge of 50 sous a-day for a 
 horse, and 12 sous for a dog. If their owners are poor, the 
 only charge made is for their keep. In case of murrain 
 among cattle, pupils or professors are sent to treat them (1). 
 
 ARGUEIL. -This village, on the Paris and Sceaux Railway, 
 has a remarkable church of the 13th century. Its name is 
 derived from the arches of the aqueduct constructed by the Ro- 
 mans (seep. 27). The country round is picturesque. 
 
 ARGENTEUIL. — A large village, 2!4 leagues north of Paris, 
 on the Seine. There was a priory here, founded in G5G, to 
 which Eloisa retired in 1120, till the Paraclete was prepared 
 
 (i) The annual cost to Government of this and the vetei’inary 
 schools of Lyons and Toulouse, comprising altogether eoo stu- 
 dents, is 492,000 fr. Tlie average number of horses bept in 
 themisi35o. The expenses amount to 1 , 921,900 fr. In the sheep 
 farms at llambouillet, Perpignan, and Lahayevaux, there are 
 1,500 animals, the beep of which amounts to 1 1 c,ooo fr. a~year. 
 
ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 496 
 
 for her by Abelard. A tunic, said to be that of our Sanour, 
 woven by the Virgin Mary, is preserved here. Gregory of 
 Tours states that it was brought to France in the reign of 
 Charlemagne, and deposited in the convent of Argenteuil, 
 where his sister and daughter were nuns. If this be the 
 genuine one, those at Moscow and Rome must be counterfeits, 
 for the legends say that the Virgin made her Son only one tunic 
 which increased in size as he grew. At present there are 
 considerable iron works here. A branch of the St. Germain 
 Railway connects this place with Colombes and Asnieres. 
 
 ARNOUVILLE. — Four leagues north of Paris. Louis XVIII. 
 passed three days in the chateau of this place previous to enter- 
 ing Paris, in 1815; and here he drew up his Charter. 
 
 ASNIERES — is a pretty village on the St. Germain railway. 
 Its summer balls are much frequented (see p. 481). 
 
 AUTEUIL— (See p. 189.) 
 
 BAGNEUX — a village on the Paris and Sceaux railroad, with 
 a church of the 12th century. 
 
 BELLEVILLE.— (Seep. 452.) 
 
 BEAUVAIS — a town of 13,000 inhabitants, in the depart- 
 ment of the Oise, 72 kilometres from Paris, on the Northern 
 railway. It was the capital of the Bdlovaci, who surren- 
 dered to Csesar without striking a blow, b.c. 57. It was 
 ravaged by the Normans in 850, and besieged by the British 
 in 1443. Its chief attraction at present is the celebrated Im- 
 perial tapestry manufactory, to view wbich tickets may be 
 obtained by writing to M. le Gdieral Bolin, aux Tuilenes ; 
 it also possesses a remarkably fine cathedral. 
 
 BELLEVUE — a village two leagues west of Paris, delight- 
 fully situated on the hill leading to Meudon from Sevres. From 
 the terrace an enchanting and extensive view is obtained of 
 Paris and the windings of the Seine. Close to the Chartres 
 railway, which passes through it, is a triangular Gothic cha- 
 pel, dedicated to Notre Dame des Flammes, in commemora- 
 tion of the dreadful railway accident which took place there 
 on May 8, 1842, when 208 persons perished, most of them by 
 the ignition of the carriages in which they were locked up. 
 
 BERCY. — (See p. 280). A new village of this name has 
 now sprung up outside the fortifications, for the sake of ware- 
 housing wines without paying the octroi. 
 
 BIGETRE. — This is a celebrated hospital, situated in the 
 small commune of Gmlilly, outside the fortifications, and 
 close to the fort of Bicetre, John, bishop of Winchester, 
 built here, in 1204, a chateau, which was named Chdteau de 
 Wincestre, from whence came Bicestre, Bic4tre. The Duke 
 de Berry gave it, in 1416, to the chapter of Notre Dame, of 
 
BICETRE. 497 
 
 whom Louis XIII. bought it in 1C32, and erected on its site an 
 hospital for military invalids, which took the title of Com- 
 manderie de St. Louis. Louis XIV. having built the Invalides, 
 this house was annexed to the general hospital de la Salpe- 
 tricre. Bicetre is situated on lofty ground, and the air is bet- 
 ter than in most hospitals of Paris. It is supplied with water 
 by machinery from two wells, sunk to 172 feet, in 1775. 
 Bicetre is used as an asylum for indigent old men, and male 
 lunatics, and may receive 2000 patients. It presents a square of 
 900 ft. on each side, and contains 3 courts. The indigent and in- 
 firm old men occupy the greater part of the building. They 
 have no private rooms, but there are large rooms with work- 
 shops and dormitories, as also several gardens and court-yards 
 for exercise. They are obliged to work three hours a-day at 
 their respective trades or other occupations, and receive in re- 
 turn a share of the profits ; the rest goes towards defraying the 
 expenses of the establishment. The daily allowance to the 
 indigent is a portion of soup, a pound and a quarter of bread, 
 four ounces of meat for dinner, vegetables or cheese at night, 
 and a quarter of a pint of wine. The average daily cost of each 
 individual is 90 c., and the total annual expense about 900,000 
 francs. The class of persons called reposans are such servants 
 of the hospital as are unable to work. The number of patients 
 is about 900, who have the same allowance as paupers, except 
 bread, of which they receive a larger quantity. The insane, 
 tvhen not dangerous, are treated most leniently ; and, those 
 who are capable of it, work on a model farm and bleaching- 
 ground, where hogs of superior kinds are reared. There are 
 various sorts of schools in the establishment for lunatics of all 
 ages. Concerts arc occasionally given, at which both the per- 
 formers and the audience are lunatics ; they are found to act 
 very beneficially on the mind (1). Until 1835 avast prison 
 was situated within the walls of the hospital, but is now re- 
 placed by the prison in the rue de la Roquette (see page 458). 
 Doctors of Bicetre : for the old and infirm, Leger ; for 
 lunatics, Voisin, Delasiauve, and Marce. Surgeon, M. Broca. 
 Upwards of 2 , 000,000 fr. have been expended on this 
 establishment ( 2 ). 
 
 (1) Owing to the progress made in Ihe medical sciences, the 
 number of patients annually discharged at present is seven times 
 greater than it used to he so years ago. The total number of 
 lunatics in all France is about 50,ooO. 
 
 (2) A vast hospital for lunatics is being built by the Depart- 
 ment on the ground of the Ferme St. Anne, in the i41h Arron- 
 dissement, beyond the exterior Boulevards, and but lately con- 
 nected with Bicetre. 
 
 22 
 
498 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 Near this is the Park of Monlsouris, covering 16 acres, and "i 
 laid out like that of Vincennes ’• 
 
 BOURG-LA-REINE — 2 leagues south of Paris. There is a ' 
 house here, with a park, built by Henry IV. for Gabrielle d’Es- | 
 trees. Here Louis XV. received the infanta of Spain, in 17 22, 
 and Condorcet, persecuted by the Convention, committed suicide 
 by poison, in 1794. The cattle-market, called Marche de 
 Sceaiix, for the butchers of Paris,, is held every Monday. The I 
 Paris and Sceaux railroad has a station here. I 
 
 BUG — a village 4M. leagues south-west of Paris, is remark- | 
 able for the aqueduct of 19 arches erected by Louis XIV. | 
 which conveys water to Versailles (half a league distant). | 
 Near this place is the source of the Bievre, which falls into 
 the Seine near the Garden of Plants. 
 
 CHANTILLY — a town 10 leagues north of Paris, was once 
 celebrated as the residence of the illustrious house of Conde. 
 The estate of Chantilly having lapsed to the crown in 1484, 
 Charles VIH. gave it to Guillaume de Montmorency, his nephew, 
 one of whose descendants having forfeited his head and his 
 estates in 1632, Louis XIII. presented Chantilly to the Princess 
 de Conde, sister of the duke alluded to. It was finally pre- 
 sented, in 1661, by Louis XIV., to the Great Conde. (1) His 
 descendants continued here till the revolution of 17 89, when 
 that part of the princely mansion called Le Grand Chateau, 
 was demolished, and the works of art, except such as had been 
 removed and secreted, were destroyed, together with the gar- 
 den, On the Restoration, in 1814, the Petit Chateau was 
 restored to the house of Conde, and many improvements were 
 made by the last of that name, who frequently resided here, 
 and made it his hunting-seat. On his melancholy death in 1830 
 (see p. 32 .’tn), Chantilly descended to the Duke d’Aumale, 4th son 
 of Louis Philippe, who frequently visited it, with other mem- 
 bers of the royal family. In consequenc(! of the decree of .Ian. 
 22d, 1852, forcing the Orleans family to dispose of all their 
 
 (i) The great Cond<5 here spent his latter years, after retiring 
 from military life, in the society of Racine, Boileau, Bossiiet, and 
 other literary men of his age. Condd took great pride in this 
 beautiful retreat, and pleasure in emhellishing it; and 'when 
 Louis XIV., who had a claim on it, indicated a desire to obtain 
 possession, he said, “ Vons fites le mattre ; mais j’ai une grace ' 
 
 demandcr h Votre Majesty, e’est de me laisser a Chantilly 
 commevotre concierge;” and the King had the moderation not 
 to interfere. Conde was honoured by a visit frosn tire King in 
 i6"i. It was on this occasion Vatel, the celebrated cook, ran 
 himself through with his sword in despair, because the fish did 
 not arrive in lime for dinner. 
 
CHANTILLY. 
 
 499 
 
 property in France, it has now changed hands, and has been 
 bought by two of the partners of the house of Coutts and Go. 
 The chateau, whicli is situated in the midst of a lake, is one of 
 the finest monuments of the style of the Renaissance in ex- 
 istence. In the state-rooms and gallery are the battles of the 
 Grand Condc, painted l)y Van der Meulen. There are also, be- 
 sides the state rooms, a chapel, and a Chinese cabinet. It is 
 surrounded by vast grounds, laid out in the English and French 
 style, with gardens, lawns, parterres, islands, grottos, and pic- 
 turesque walks. The stables of Cliantilly, considered the finest 
 in Europe, are at some little distance from the Chateau, and 
 form even a more magnificent pile of buildings than the pa- 
 lace. They are cfipable of holding 180 horses, and connected 
 with them are other buildings for the accommodation of hounds, 
 carriages, 6cc. The exterior and interior are tastefully deco- 
 rated with pieces of sculpture representing sporting subjects, and 
 the lawn in front is magnificent. Admission to the Chateau, 
 stables, and grounds is obtained without difficulty. The forest 
 of Chantilly, adjoining the park, contains 7,000 acres. In the 
 midst of it is a circular area called the Table Ronde, from 
 which 12 roads branch in ditferent directions, and this is the 
 ordinary rendezvous of sporting parties. Here also the festival 
 of St. Hubert, the patron of sportsmen, used to be celebrated. 
 The pretty lakes of Commelle, at about an hour’s walk across 
 the forest, are fed by a little river called La Theve, anti skirted 
 by the village of Commelle and the Gliateau de la Loge, 
 which is said to have been built by Blanche de Gastifle', 
 mother of St. Louis. Races, fashionably attended, take place 
 at Chantilly in May and October. At the May meetings the 
 Derby is run for, and in the October the St Leger. The Go- 
 vernment gives stakes amounting to several hundred pounds, 
 and the Jockey Club and the authorities of the Department 
 also give prizes to be contended for. Several racing studs 
 are kept at Chantilly, on account of the facilities for train- 
 ing. Duke de Morny had a large establishment of the kind 
 near the railway station, The number of race-horses at Ghan- 
 :illy is now about 200. There was also a hunting society 
 lere, which has been broken up. The Prince de Sagan, 
 grandson to the Due de Talleyrand, however, has bought up 
 ;he establishment, and intends keeping it on until the expira- 
 :ion of the lease. The indemnities to the proprietors over 
 whose lands sporting is carried on, amount to about 50,000fr. 
 
 A very neat English Protestant church, St. Peter’s, has now been 
 erected licre by voluntary subscription. The Rev. J. R. Free- 
 ling,M.A., hasbeenlicensed by the Bishop of London toheChap- 
 Lain. The Northern railway takes visitoi’s direct to Chantilly. 
 
500 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 CIIARENTON — was celebi ated under Henry IV., Louis XIII., 
 and XIV., for the controversies which took place there on doc- 
 trinal points between the Catholics and the Protestants. At 
 present its only claim to notice is the great hospital for lunatics 
 of both sexes, founded in 1644 by the minister Deblanc. In 
 1797, it was converted, under the name of Mahon Nationals 
 de Charenton pour le traitement des alienes, into an asylum 
 for 400 lunatics whose cases were not hopeless ; others are now 
 received whose insanity is considered incurable. The mode 
 of treatment by giving employment and amusement to the 
 patient, with the apparent absence of restraint, has been found 
 very successful. The dormitories are spacious, well-lighted, 
 airy, &c. ; and the passages are warmed by iron pipes under 
 the floor. The asylum is under the authority of the Minister i 
 of the Interior, and the superintendence of a special committee, i 
 Persons are received here as boarders, and gratuitously on an ^ 
 order from the minister, who has a certain number of bourses :l 
 at his disposal, to be applied for a limited time in favour of v 
 persons having claims on the government. There are three || 
 classes of boarders ; the first, those who pay 1,425 fr., and 
 upwards ; the second, 1,125 fr.; and the third, 828 fr., in- 
 cluding washing. Certificates, signed by medical men not 
 more than a fortnight before admission, are to be presented on, 
 the part of lunatics previous to their being allowed to enter, | 
 and certain formalities have to be complied with. Admission is 
 granted at all times to friends of patients ; but the public arej 
 only admitted from noon to 4 o’clock, on Thursdays and Sun- 
 days. No one is allowed to enter the wards, but strangers are 
 shown the courts and gardens. Lunatics, whether cured or not, 
 are restored to their families on permission of the authority which 
 ordered their admission. (1) Physicians, Dr. Rousselin, Dr. 
 Calmed. Chief Surgeon ; Dr. Deguise junior. A stone bridge 
 over the Marne connects Charenton with Alfort. 
 
 CHARTRES — the capital of the department of Eure-et-Loir, 
 a town of 18,000 inhabitants, celebrated for its splendid 
 cathedral, and easily accessible from Paris by the Western 
 railroad. It was once the capital of the fertile Beauce, 
 and is situated on a slope, at the bottom of which runs the 
 Eure, washing the only remaining portion of the old forti- 
 fications and two of the city gates, the rest of the ram- 
 parts being now levelled into walks. Chartres is one of the 
 largest corn markets in France, its Cathedral is one of 
 
 (i) The share supported by the department of the Seine in th 
 cost of all the lunatic asylums was last year 795,000 fr. Ther 
 are 57 public, and 42 private lunatic asylum in France. 
 
 
CHARTRES 
 
 oOl 
 
 the most magnificeat in Europe, conspicuously situated 
 the hill on which the city stands. Henry IV. was crowned 
 in the choir of this church, Feb. 27 th, 1594. Its most striking 
 and interesting features, after its vast dimensions and elegant pro- 
 portions, are its two rich and singular lateral portals, its painted 
 glass, scarcely equalled in France, and its three rose windows. 
 This edifice was commenced by Bishop Fulbert, in 1029, but 
 was not dedicated till 12 GO. The western front was com- 
 
 pleted in 1145, with the exception of the elegant crocheted 
 northern spire, raised in 1514, partly at the charge of Louis 
 I XII., by J. Texier; it is 370 feet high, and the upper part of 
 : beautifully light and delicately executed work. The exterior 
 r of this beautiful edifice is adorned with 1800 historical sta- 
 I tries, and 2000 more are disseminated round the choir and 
 the rest of the interior. The western front and portal, 
 elaborately ornamented with statuary in the Byzantine 
 style, illustrative of the New Testament, is inferior alto- 
 gether in design and execution to the two entrances on the 
 northern and southern sides, consisting of triple projecting 
 ; Gothic porticos resting on piers of clustered pillars. The 
 statues which line the sides and vaults are of a superior style 
 i of art, and of the 14th century. The interior is of such con- 
 sistent proportions in all its parts, that its vast dimensions do 
 not strike the spectator at first sight, but its length is 422 feet, 
 i and the height to the apex of its roof 112 feet. The style 
 j throughout the nave and choir is the vigorous early Gothic. In 
 ^ the centre of the nave a maze or labyrinth, of intricate circles, 
 is marked out on the pavement in coloured stone ; to follow it 
 through its windings (1,320 feet long), saying prayers at cer= 
 i tain stations, was probably at one time a penitential exercise. 
 The church possesses a perfect treasure of painted glass, more 
 . than 130 windows being completely filled, and few being quite 
 destitute of this splendid ornament. They date, for the most 
 I part, from the 13th century. Some of the glass is half an inch 
 . thick. The three rose windows at the end of the nave and Iran - 
 septs are remarkable for their size, 30 or 40 feet in diameter, and 
 their complicated tracery, which however is somewhat heavy. 
 The subjects are generally sacred, but the lower compartments 
 contain representations of various trades — shoemakers, basket- 
 makers, 8cc. , showing that their guilds or corporations were the 
 1 donors. The choir has double aisles, and ends in ahemicycle 
 ; towards the east ; in the inside 8 marble bas reliefs, of scrip- 
 tural subjects, mediocre in design and execution, are inserted, 
 and behind the high altar is a huge piece of marble sculpture, 
 , in the taste of the time of Louis XIII., out of character with 
 the building, The outside of the screen, which separates the 
 
602 ElXVIROXS OF PARIS. 
 
 choir from its aisles, is ornamented with a series of remarkable 
 Gothic sculptures, representing the life of Christ or the Virgin 
 Mary, in 4 5 compartments, surrounded wdth the most elaborate 
 tracery and tabernacle work. They were begun in 1614, and 
 continued down to the middle of the 1 7lh century, and are in- 
 teresting as some of the final efforts of Gothic art. The execu- 
 tion has been compared to ‘ ‘ point lace in stone, and some of 
 the sculptured threads are not thicker than the blade of a pen- 
 knife.” After exploring this noble edifice, tbe traveller may 
 inspect the churches of St. Pierre and St. Andre, which, though 
 not comparable, are still worth a passing visit ; St. Andre, i 
 {“ to what vile uses may we come at last! ”) divested of its ^ 
 sacred character, is now a magazine for forage. Chartres j 
 abounds with antiquities of the Gallo-Roman period and tbe 
 Middle Ages. It has a public library, comprising 30,000 
 volumes, besides 900 MSS. 
 
 CHATENAY — a mile and a-half south ofSceaux, is celebrated . 
 as being the birth-place of Voltaire, in 1094. 
 
 CHOISY-LE-ROI. — This large village, 2‘A leagues from Paris, 
 is so called from a chateau, a favourite residence of Louis XV. 
 
 It is celebrated for its glass and morocco manufa Tories. Close 
 10 the railroad station the Seine is crossed by a bridge. 
 
 COLOMBES — a neat little village on the St. Germain I'ailroad. 
 
 COMPIEGNE. — Thistown,w'ith9,000inbabitauts, 19 leagues 
 north-east of Paris, near the confluence of the Oise and the 
 Aisne, possesses a palace agreeably situated between the 
 town and the forest. Compiegne has many interesting his- 
 torical associations. Its origin dates from the fourth century. 
 
 In 602 Clotaire I. died of a malady contracted there; councils 
 were held at Compiegne in 823 and 833, by the latter of 
 which Louis leDebonnaire wms dethroned. Another council, 
 held here in 871, excommunicated Carloman ; here also Louis 
 le Begue was crowned in 877, and buried in 879. In 977 1 
 Louis V. died here. In 12 60 St. Louis founded its palace; in | 
 1364 Charles V. held the town against the King of Navarre ; 
 in 1430 the Maid of Orleans was made prisoner hei-e by the 
 English; in 1639 Francis I. here received an embassy from 
 Charles V.; in 1624, Cardinal Richelieu signed a treaty of 
 peace wdth the Dutch in the palace, where, i46 years later, 
 Louis XVI. first met Marie Antoinette, and Napoleon in 1810, 
 received the Archduchess Maria Louisa. In 1814, Louis 
 XVIII. here received the visit of Alexander of Russia and 
 Bernadotte of Sweden. Lastly, in 1833, the marriage of 
 Princess Louisa, daughter of Louis Philippe, with King Leo- 
 pold of Belgium, was celebrated in the chapel of the palace. 
 
 The Palace. — It is situated on the Place du Chdteau, a 
 
ajUtfriti igl 
 
 T p«\ir.»\. r:iii', asir.' iMiEi'ifJXiDi'i 
 
 T P/A-fT./Ai CiP', OiJ' 'COmiP'I!ESl51Eo 
 
 A „ ! 
 
COMPIEGNE. 503 
 
 spacious square, suiTOuncled with alleys of lime-trees, and was 
 built by Louis XV. and Louis XVI. The entrance is tlu’ougb 
 a Doric portico connectin'? two lateral wings which, with the 
 main hotly, enclose the Cour d’Honneur. The Grand Vestibule, 
 a ions Doric gallery, adorned with marble busts of Roman 
 Emperors, leads by the Escalier d’Honneur, a fine double- 
 branched ’staircase, flanked with marble statues of Fllopital 
 and d'Aguesseau, to the Salle des Gardes , a long Doric hall, 
 adorned with splendid panoplies and pieces of armour of beau- 
 tiful workmanship. The Salon des Hioissiers, to the left, 
 contaiirs a hunting scene under Louis XV., painted by Audiy, 
 and two other pictures of hounds, by Desportes. The follow- 
 ing Salle d Manger de I’Empereur, an Ionic hall, opening 
 into the garden, and painted in grisaille by Sauvage, opens 
 to the right into a suite of apartments formerly inhabited by 
 Madame Adelaide, sister to Louis Philippe, and now reserved 
 for the use of Princess Mathilde. The King of Prussia occu- 
 pied them in October, 1861. The suite consists of a Salon 
 d’Attente, painted in grisaille by Sauvage, and adorned with 
 a splendid rural scene, executed in Gobelins tapestry , a Salon 
 de Reception, with busts of Napoleon I. and III., and the 
 Empress Eugenie, and three mythological subjects in Gobelins 
 tapestry, and lastly a Chambre a Voucher, with full-length 
 pictures of the Emperor and Empress, and beautiful arabesques 
 painted in the panels. All these rooms are filled with Beau- 
 vais furniture. Returning to the dining room, a door oppo- 
 site leads to the Salon des Aide s-de- Camp, containing large 
 maps, painted on canvas, of the forests ot Compiegne, Fon- 
 tainebleau, St. Germain, and Marly. Next follows the Sadon 
 de Famille, where the Imperial family meet in the evening, 
 the Salon du Conseil, a splendid room, with a Gobelins car- 
 pet and Beauvais furniture. The walls are adorned with three 
 fine pieces of Gobelins tapestry, representing sacrifices to Pallas, 
 Flora, and Ceres, from originals painted in 17 87 , by Suvee. The 
 Emperor’s bedroom, with a splendid gilt bedstead and canopy, 
 is such as it was in the time of Napoleon I. ; the lurniture is 
 red damask, and the ceiling painted in compartments, by 
 Girodet, who has also painted those of the Library, a spa- 
 cious room, with carved and gilt bookcases. The central 
 comnartment here represents Mercury, Pallas, and Apollo. 
 We next enter the Sa/oti dc MvsKjua of the Empress, with 
 four pieces executed in Gobelins tapestry, representing Chinese 
 and other oriental subjects. Next follows the Empress s lied- 
 chamber, a most gorgeous apartment. The ceiling and panels, 
 painted by Girodet, represent the Evening Star, and the Sea- 
 sons. Over the richly gilt bedstead hovers the Imperial 
 
504 
 
 E^VJKOiXS OF PAllIS. 
 
 eagle; the furniture is also gilt and covered with red damask. 
 Adjoining is a bath and cabinet de toilette, also beautifully 
 furnished. The bed chamber leads to the Salon de Reception 
 of the Empress ; the ceiling and panels over the doors are 
 painted by Girodet. All these rooms were inhabited by the 
 Queen. The following room is the Salon des Fleurs, which 
 is now the bed-chamber reserved for the Prince Imperial. 
 Adjoining is his reception room, whicli was arranged in 1811 
 for the King of Rome. The coves of the ceiling, by Girodet 
 represent Departure, War, Victory, and the Return. Descend- 
 ing a staircase we find the Salle du Spectacle, with three 
 tiers of galleries, and capable of containing 800 persons. 
 It is richly painted and gilt. The front seats are for the Em- 
 peror and Empress ; those behind are for the Princes, and the 
 members of the court occupy the adjoining side galleries. The 
 suite behind the Empress’s rooms comprises a private dining 
 room, and the Galerie de Don Quichotte, with 3 1 paintings 
 by Coypel, father and son, rep resenting the most striking scenes 
 of Cervantes’ masterpiece. From this we enter the Salon 
 d’Attente of the Grande Galerie des Batailles, with a 
 painting of “Stags at Rest,” by Martinus. HhQ Galerie 
 Itself IS a gorgeous saloon, built by Napoleon I., the 
 vaulted ceiling, supported by 20 Corinthian columns, il- 
 lustrates in 12 allegorical compartments, by Girodet, the vic- 
 tories of Wagram, Austerlitz, etc. It is lOO feet by 40, and 
 30 feet in height, and is lighted by 13 large lustres. A full- 
 length statue of Napoleon I., and another of Madame Letitia 
 seated, occupy the extremities. The following room contains 
 a hunting piece, and a beautiful “Dream of Napoleon I.” 
 To the right of this is the Galerie Neuve, built in 1838 . It 
 is a,dorned with a series of eight paintings by Natoire, com- 
 pleting the series of scenes from Don Quixote above described. 
 Returning to thO preceding room, a door opposite opens into 
 the Anti-Chapelle, adorned with fine Gobelins tapestry, re- 
 presenting High Mass, Leo X., and the Defeat of Maxentius, 
 copied from the Vatican at Rome. The present chapel, ad- 
 joining, is of the Doric and Ionic orders ; the window re- 
 presents, in stained glass, the Creator, Faith, and Hope. This 
 palace is visible every day from lo to 4, when the Emperor 
 is absent. 
 
 A spacious terrace behind the palace, adorned with sphynxes, 
 statues of Ulysses, Mutius Scmvola, and good cojiies from the 
 antique, in white marble, slopes down into the Garden, 
 which is laid out in the English style, and contains several 
 good statues, both bronze and marble. A portion of the 
 forest is seen from the terrace, qnd an arbour of iron 
 
COMPIEGNE. 
 
 505 
 
 fi'ame-work, 4 800 feet long and 14 feet in breadth, leads 
 from the palace to the forest. There is also a canal of about 
 the same length. To the left the terrace ends in a fmeavenue 
 of lime trees, planted on part of the old ramparts of Compiegne 
 dating from 1199. The forest of Compiegne contains 36,590 
 acres, 338 roads, forming a length of 2 20 leagues; 21 ponds, 
 318 bridges, and 11 fountains. Its value is 49,000,000 fr. 
 All the finger-posts pointing to the town are painted red. 
 
 Tlie Town of Compiegne is irregularly built, but it pos- 
 sesses, besides the palace, three remarkable edifices. The 
 Hdtel de Ville is a Gothic structure of the end of the 14th cen- 
 tury ; its central tower, with the lateral turrets and the pro- 
 fuse sculpture of its front deserve particular attention. This 
 building is not unworthy of a visit. In the Council Chamber 
 is Papety’s well-known picture, Un Reve de Bonheur, besides 
 full length pictures of the Emperor and Empress, and a fine 
 forest scene by Veilquez. The public library, composed of 
 12,000 volumes, is in one of the contiguous rooms. On 
 the second story is a museum, founded by M. Vivenel. Here 
 the visitor will be astonished to find, within a small compass, 
 treasures which are often wanting in larger collections. Be- 
 sides a numerous series of Etruscan vases, Roman lamps, 
 medals, etc. ; there are St. Veronica and St. Francis de Paula, 
 by Anuibal Caracci ; two boys, by Murillo ; dogs, by Jadin ; 
 Charity, by Landelle ; three paintings, by Boucher ; two 
 beautiful pastel landscapes, by Chamorin, and other valuable 
 pictures and designs ;■ also an altar-screen of alabaster, 
 of the 15th century, with the Passion carved in haut-relief 
 in 14 compartments, once belonging to St. Germain FAux- 
 errois ; the bedstead and arm-chair of Henry II. ; a 
 spur of Joan of Arc, Egyptian antiquities, 6cc. There 
 is also a small collection of minerals and plaster casts 
 here. The Eglise St. Jacques, independently of its re- 
 markable tower and pure pointed style throughout, con- 
 tains two remarkable paintings in the transepts ; one is Queen 
 Anne of Austria, consort of Louis XIII., renewing the vow 
 she had made to the Virgin ; the other, Christ at Emmaus, 
 but with the curious circumstance of the presence of Anne of 
 Austria, her children and her courtiers on the picture. There 
 is also a copy, by Piiilippe de Champagne, of Titian’s Entomb- 
 ment of Jesus. Tliis church has a nave and two aisles. The 
 front of the church of St. Antoine, with its buttressed towers, 
 canopied and spired, is a gem of the florid Gothic. The interior 
 is slightly cruciform, and consists of a nave and two aisles. 
 There is some fine old stained glass representing sacred sub- 
 jects, dating from 1540, in two of the chapels ; the Lady 
 
506 
 
 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 Chapel has three stained -windows of modern execution. The 
 only paintings worth mentioning are ; an Assumption, by 
 Manchard ; a Flight to Egypt, by Mattez; and an old paint- 
 ing of two Benedictine nuns in prayer. 
 
 A military camp is sometimes formed at Compiogne in autumn. 
 A branch of the Northern Railroad leads to this town. Those 
 who have taken the precaution of starting by an early train, 
 may enjoy a delightful drive to 
 
 Pienrfonds — for which place vehicles start from the Hotel 
 de la Cloche, Place de ITlotel de Ville, at a charge of 2 fr. a-head ; 
 cabriolets or Amdneuines may also be had at various prices, 
 return included. The whole excursion takes about four hours, 
 and is well worth the trouble. Pierrefonds, 12 kilometres 
 from Compiegne, is situated on the southern border of the 
 forest of Compiegne, and is remarkable for the ruins of a fine 
 old castle of the. 14th century, situated on the crest of a steep 
 rock overlooking the village. An older one existed in the 1 ith 
 century, not far from this spot, where the Fcrme du Itoclicr 
 now stands. The Pairic of Pierrefonds was one of the oldest 
 of the kingdom, until it became a royal domain. The present 
 castle was built by Louis d’Orleans, Count of Valois, brother 
 to Charles VI., the same who was assassinated by the emis- 
 saries of the Due de Bourgogne in 1407 (see p. 271 /;.) The 
 latter immediately afterwards sent the Count de St. Pol to 
 besiege Pierrefonds, who got possession of k by capitulation. 
 In 1413 he was himself compelled by Charles VI. to give it 
 up to Ihe son of Louis d’Orleans, but before yielding to the 
 royal mandate he set it on lire, and a large portion of it was 
 thus destroyed. In 1589 the castle was occupied by a bold 
 robber chief, named Rieux, who laid the surrounding country 
 under contribution, and in 1591 sustained two sieges by the 
 forces of Henry IV., under the Duke of Epernon and the Mare- 
 chal de Biron. He was at length caught by stratagem, and 
 hanged at Compiegne in 1593. His feudal lord, St. Chamant, 
 sustained a third siege after his death, and obtained an 
 honourable capitulation. The castle sustained a fourth siege 
 in iGlfi, when Villeneuve, a second Rieux, capitulated after a 
 determined resistance. Cardinal Richelieu afterwards caused 
 the castle to be partly demolished. In 1798 the ruins were 
 sold for 8,000 fr. as national property; in 1812 Napoleon 1. 
 bought them for 5,000 fr., and they have belonged to the 
 Crown ever since. Louis Philippe visited them in 1832, and 
 the present Emperor has done much to render them accessible 
 and beautify Ihe surrounding ground. A portion of the castle 
 is likely to be soon restored . It contains a rich gallery of ancient 
 armour, visible on Thursdays and Sundays from 12 to 4, 
 
riERUEFONDS. 507 
 
 The village below is acquiring some importance from the 
 sulphurous spring discovered there in 1840. A bathing estab- 
 lishment, provided with every comfort, has been erected, and 
 several pretty houses have sprung up around it. 
 
 But Pierrefonds is not the only attraction of these parts. 
 Following the road to Atticinj, at about two kilometres from 
 Pierrefonds, we arriA e at a spot where every stroke of the 
 pickaxe reveals the existence of some habitation of the Gallo- 
 Pioman period, and roofs of houses may be seen peering out of 
 the soil. Here Roman wells are found, and innumerable 
 relics of the Roman dominion in these regions, such as sculp- 
 ture, pottery, weapons, etc. Passing through the hamlets of 
 Palesne and Morienval, which latter stands on the site of a 
 Roman villa, and of one built by Dagobert, while its Byzan- 
 tine church might adorn a town, we arrive at Orrouij, where 
 a guide may be had to show the Roman ruins of 
 
 Champlieu — (Campi locus.) Following some intricate paths 
 up a hill, the visitor will suddenly come upon a wall 
 which forms part of the most complete amphitheatre now in 
 existence; nothing indeed is wanting but the actors and the 
 public of those times. It has long been known in the neigh- 
 bourhood as the Fer-d-Cheval, a name which denotes its 
 form. In the middle ages it w^as called Les Tournelles. Here 
 Roman coins of Hadrian, Antoninus Pius, and Constantine, 
 have been found,' and the children of the vicinity will some- 
 times offer some for sale to the tourists. M. Marchal (de 
 Luneville) has published some of tlie architectural I’emains, 
 busts, and other pieces of sculpture which still exist here. 
 This spot was evidently one of those permanent Roman camps 
 which not unfrequeutly became towns in course of time. We 
 here find evidence of this in the existence of a temple to 
 Apollo, situated in the vicinity of the theatre. Part of the 
 stairs of the peristyle are still visible, with the well sculptured 
 shafts of columns, the capitals and entablatures of which are 
 strewn on the ground. 
 
 COURBEVOIE — a village lying beyond Neuilly, and only 
 remarkable for the statue of Napoleon I., which stood on the 
 Colonne Vendome, and has now been erected here on a granite 
 pedestal, facing the Arc de Triomphe de I’Etoile, which is 
 visible from this spot. 
 
 CORBEIL — 8 leagues south of Paris, on the Seine ; a town 
 of 4,000 inhabitants, with extensive flour-mills and an immense 
 corn-warehouse, having 805 windows. H carries on a con- 
 siderable trade in corn and flour. The church of St. Spire, re- 
 built in 1437, contains thetombof Jacques deBourgoin, founder 
 of the college of Gorbeil (1 061), The small church of St, Jean 
 
508 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 cn rule was built by the Templars in the 13th century. A 
 branch of the Lyons railway terminates here. 
 
 ENGIIIEN-LES-BAINS.— This village, half an hour from Pa- 
 ris, is situat(!d on the lake of St. Gratien, between Montmorency 
 and the wood of St. Gratien. The sulphurous spring was dis- 
 covered in 17fiC. The waters contain lime, carbon, magnesia, 
 soda, and sulphuretted hydrogen gas ; their usual temperature is 
 59 degrees of Fahrenheit, but they may be heated much higher 
 without losing their properties ; they are efficacious in scrofula 
 and other diseases of the skin, inlestinal chronic affeclions, and 
 nervous, and rheumatic disorders. Furnished houses and apart- 
 ments for the accommodation of visitors are very numerous. 
 Horses and asses are ready saddled for rides to the delightful 
 villages in the vicinity. Balls, similar to those described at 
 pp. 479-481, take place here in summer, and attract the 
 Parisians in very great numbers, particularly since the exist- 
 ence of the northern railroad, which has a station .at Enghien. 
 
 ERMENONVILLE — 10 leagues north-east of Paris, is remark- 
 able for its chateau, in a dependency of which Jean- Jacques 
 Rousseau died. M. de Girardin, having learnt that the small- 
 ness of Rousseau’s income had compelled him to quit Paris, in- 
 vited him to lirmenoiiville, where he arrived on the 20th May, 
 177 8, but died on the 2d July following, and was buried in an 
 island in the great park, called lie des Peupliers, where a mo- 
 nument was erected to his memory. The park and grounds 
 adjoining the chateau are laid out with great taste. 
 
 F^ONTAINEBLEAU. — This handsome town of 9700 inhabi- 
 tants, at 59 knohielres S.E. of Paris, is the seat of a sub-pre- 
 fecture, and has two hospitals, a Hotel de Ville, a new and 
 handsome Palais de Justice, a Protestant college, a church 
 (St. Louis), newly rebuilt in a very tasteful style, a theatre, 
 public baths, and a porcelain manufactory. It may be 
 reached in less than two hours by the Lyons railroad, which 
 has a splendid viaduct of thirty arches at the Fontaiirebleau 
 station. In the middle of the Place Centralc, to the left of 
 the Grande Rue, there stands a bronze statue of General Da- 
 mesme, who fell in the insurrection of June, 1848. But the 
 chief attractions of Fontainebleau are its palace, which stands 
 unrivalled for magnificence, and the picturesque forest on 
 which it borders. The garden and park are public ; the palace 
 is visible every day from 12 till 3. To visit the scenery of the 
 forest completely, vehicles are always in readiness, butthe price 
 must be bargained for beforehand. A Sunday pleasure train 
 runs during the summer at reduced fares. 
 
 History. — The forest of Fontainebleau was originally called 
 the F^rdt de Bierre, from the name of a Danish warrior, Bierra, 
 
FONTAINEBLEAU. 509 
 
 surnanied C6te de Fer, who in 845 encamped his army here 
 after having committed frighlfnl ravages. Its present name 
 I seems to have been derived from a spring of water, where the 
 town now exists, which was found so delicious by thirsty 
 huntsmen as to obtain for it the appellation of Fontaine. Belle 
 Fan. The epoch of the foundation of a royal residence here, 
 is uncertain. Some attribute it to King Robert the Devout in 
 the eleventh century, but it is at least of the twelfth, 
 several acts having been promulgated here by Louis VII. 
 f Philippe Auguste also resided at Fontainebleau. Philippe le 
 Bel was horn and died at Fontainebleau, and his tomb is in 
 the small church of the adjoining hamlet of Avon. Louis IX., 
 who called Fontainebleau his chers deserts, frequently hunted 
 in the forest, founded an hospital, and erected the Chapelle de 
 la Sainte Trinitehere. It was not however till the 16th cen- 
 tury that the pr esent chateau was commenced by Francis L, 
 and became the favourite residence of that monarch andTfniTrm 
 mediate successors. In it have taken place many of the most 
 remarkable events of French history. Here, in 1539, Francis 
 received and feted Charles V. of Germany on his visit to France. 
 In 1602 the Marechal de Biron was arrested here, by order of 
 Henry IV., on a charge of high treason, and afterwards he- 
 headkl in the Bastille. In 1650 the Marquis de Monaldeschi, 
 the secretary and favourite of Queen Christine, was assassinated 
 f here by her orders, In 1 685, Louis_ ^. signed the revocation 
 of the Edict of Nante s, and in thoTc^wing year the great Conde 
 died here, as did also in 17 65 the Dauphin, only son of Louis 
 XV., father of Louis XVI., Louis XVIII., and Charles X. The 
 court having been transfeived by Louis XIV. to Versailles, 
 Fontainebleau became neglected, and aTThe revolution it was 
 stripped of all its valuable furniture and decorations, and fell 
 I into thorough decay. Unde r- Napoleon , however, it was par- 
 I tially restored, and became once more the theatre of events, 
 i In 1808, Charles IV., king of Spain, dethroned by Bonaparte, 
 
 I was detained a prisoner here during 24 days. In 1 809 the 
 ^ c divorce bet ween t he Ei nperor and Jo sephine was pronouiiced 
 I here, and three yeaFsTater Pope Pius VII. became an unwil- 
 ling inmate of the palace for 18 months. Here Napoleon him- 
 self, in 1814, signed his abdication, and took leave of the 
 imperial eagles. Nothing remarkable took place here during 
 the Restoration, Louis XVHI. and his family having made few 
 improvements in Fontainebleau. But in 1831, Louis Philippe 
 commenced its complete restoration, and the works proceeded 
 with great activity, and at consideralile cost ; all the first artists 
 of France were employed in decorating it ; the most scrupulous 
 attention was paid to the restoration of everything to its ori- 
 
■)10 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 ginal style, the furniture carefully selected, and the effect of 
 the palace rendered the most splendid that can be conceived. 
 The latest events that have taken place at Fontainebleau are 
 the marriage of the Duke of Orleans, the reception of Queen 
 Maria Christina of Spain, Lecointe's attempt to assassinate 
 Louis Philippe in the forest, and the visits of the Grand Duke 
 Constantine of Russia, and the King of Bavaria, in May, 1 857. 
 
 The Palace. — The vast Cour des Adieux, formerly Coio’ 
 da Cheval Blanc, from an equestrian statue in plaster once 
 placed here, is separated from the adjoining Place de Solferino 
 (lately Place de Ferrare) by an elegant railing, over the cen- 
 tral gate of which we see two gilt eagles, the same 
 which adorned it under Napoleon 1. The palace has four 
 courts ; viz. the Cour de la Fontaine, the fountain in which is 
 surmounted by a fine statue of Ulysses, by Petitot ; the Cour 
 Ovale, or du Donjon, formerly containing the keep of the cha- 
 teau ; the Cour des Princes , so called from its apartments having 
 been assigned to the Prince de Conde and the Due de Bourbon ; 
 and that des Cuisines, or de Henri IV., who added consi- 
 derably to the works of his predecessors, and took much plea- 
 sure in adorning the chateau. The Cour des Adieux was de- 
 signed by the architect Serlio and was once divided into four 
 separate portions, for jousts and tournaments. The frontage 
 of the chateau is composed of five pavilions, bearing the 
 names of, 1, the Pavilion des Ainndniers, or de PHor- 
 loge ; 2, i\\o Pavilion des Ordres ; 3, the middle pavilion, 
 called des Peintures, adorned with a bust of Francis I., 
 placed there by order of Louis Philippe ; 4, the Gros Pavilion ; 
 5, the Pavilion des Arrnes or des Poeles, so named from 
 German stoves erected there in the time of Francis I. In the 
 centre is a double flight of steps known as the Escalier du fer 
 d cheval (so called from being in the form of a horse-shoe), 
 constructed by Lemercierin the time of Louis XIIL, and a few 
 feet in advance of the bottom of these steps is the spot on 
 which the Emperor Napoleon bade adieu to his soldiers on the 
 20th of April, 1814 ; and where, eleven months after, he 
 reviewed the troops he was about to lead to Paris. The 
 other two sides of the court are formed by an old wing of the 
 time of Francis L, and a new one, of a different design, erected 
 by Louis XV. on the site of the splendid Galcrie d’Uhjsse, 
 thus destroying some of the best frescoes of Primaticcio. 
 
 InPrior . — The order in which the visitor is led through 
 the different apartments is seldom the same, but whether he 
 enter them from the llorsc-shoe staircase, or from a door be- 
 low, he will arrive at a vestibule, with six doors, beautifully- 
 carved, respectively giving access — 1 , to the upper galleiT of 
 
FONTAINEBLEAU. 
 
 511 
 
 the Chapelle de la Trinite ; 2 , the staircase descending into 
 it; 3, the Galerie des Fresques, ov des Assiettes; 4, the rooms 
 formerly occupied by the Duchess of Orleans; 5, to the Horse- 
 shoe staircase, and C, to the Galerie de Francois I. The Cha ■ 
 pellede la Trinite was constructed by Francis I., on the site 
 of one erected by St. Louis ; a fragment of the latter, a Doric 
 arch at the bottom of the nave, still remains. The chapel is 
 130 feet by 20, exclusive of the side chapels. The arched 
 ceiling, painted by Frerainet, and restored by M. Lejeune, re- 
 presents Noah entering the Ark with his children, the Fall of 
 the Angels, the Adoration of God, the Announcement of 
 the Messiah by the Angel Gabriel, and the Holy Fathers receiv- 
 ing this announcement. The altar, of the time of Louis XHL, 
 is by Bordoni ; the altar-piece, the Descent from the Cross, 
 was painted by Jean Dubois ; the four bronze angels, and the 
 statues of Charlemagne and St. Louis, are by Germain Pilon. 
 The marriages of Louis XV. and of the late Duke of Orleans, 
 j as also the baptism of the present Emperor, were celebrated 
 here. — The Galerie des Fresques is remarkable for its panels, 
 
 I with paintings of Fame, Victory, Juno, Ceres, Flora, etc., by 
 ’ Ambroise Dubois, restored by Alaux. The wainscoting below 
 is decorated with 128 beautiful plates of Sevres porcelain, re- 
 presenting the principal residences of the French monarchs, 
 and objects relating to the history of Fontainebleau. Re- 
 turning to the vestibule, we enter the Galerie de Frangois 1., 
 a magniFicent hall, go metres in length, overlooking the Cour 
 de la Fontaine, with a ceiling divided into massive compart- 
 ments beautifully gilt, and a maze of scroll-work, caryatides, 
 and arabesques in haut-relief on the walls, encompassing fres- 
 coes by Rosso and Primaticcio, some of wliich have been re 
 stored by M. Couderc, who has added other subjects of his 
 own. On the panels of the wainscoting are various devices, 
 the letter “F,” and the Salamander, the emblem chosen by 
 Francis I. At the further end of this gallery there is a marble 
 bust of Francis L, and to the left of this a door gives access 
 to a winding staircase, called Escalier St. Louis, beautifully 
 designed and carved. 
 
 We must now return to the vestibule, in order to view the 
 Appartanenls des Rrin.es Meres, so called from having been 
 formerly assigned to the Queens Dowager. They were inha- 
 ; bited by Pius VII. in 1812, and afterwards by the Duchess of 
 Orleans. They are all remarkable for splendid spec imens of_ 
 Go belins tapest ry. The two first rooms of this suite are now 
 filled with the presents brought lo the Emperor by the Siamese 
 Embassy, which arrived in Paris in the summer of 1861. 
 In the first, a press contains several well-wrought bowls and 
 
ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 512 
 
 other metal utensils, girdles, and weapons set with jewels, 
 etc. Near this press we see a palanquin with spangled cur- 
 tains, and a beautiful throne or state-chair on poles, to be car- 
 ried like a palanquin. To this belongs a rich portable' canopy 
 or parasol, set, like the chair, with precious stones. In the 
 second room, which was the Pope's Salon de Reception, there 
 are a saddle and bridle, also studded witli jewels, and various 
 fancy spears and other weapons of beautiful workmanship, 
 and lastly, several banners of a very unusual form, being 
 composed of pieces of stutf arranged in circles one above the 
 other, and all richly embroidered. Next follows the Chainbre 
 d coucher d’Anne d’Autriche, which was used as an oratory 
 by Pins VII. Where the bed now is, stood the altar 
 It was here Napoleon I. attempted to wring from him his 
 consent to the Concordat, by which he renounced temporal 
 power. Charles V. of Germany slept in it in 1 539, while on 
 a visit to Francis I. The ceiling of this chamber is gorgeously 
 carved and gilt. Over the doors are portraits of Anne and 
 Maria Theresa of Austria. The next rooms are a Cabinet de 
 Toilette, with a portrait of Pius VII., v/ho used this room for 
 a study ; then another toilet-room, and after this, his bed- 
 room. In the next room is a press, beautifully carved by Jean 
 Goujon. The last, the Anti-chambre, is filled with portraits 
 of Charles VI., Louis IX., Henry IV., and Louis XIV., by Iloro- 
 nois ; and other paintings by Poussin, Mignard, Breughel, &c. 
 This suite is now reserved for royal visitors. 
 
 Returning once more to the first vestibule, the landing place 
 of a private staircase leads to the private apartments of Napo- 
 leon L, which were also inhabited by Louis Philippe, and 
 are now reserved for the present Emperor. Like tlie prece- 
 ding ones, they are all rich in_Gab clins tapestry . In ther Anti- 
 chambre is a fine portraitoTM^ame deMontespan ; thepaint-^ 
 ings over the doors are by Boucher. The Cabinet da Secre - 
 taire and the Salle dcs bains, a small room completely co- 
 I vered with mirrors adorned with arabesques, brought hither 
 ! from Versailles, lead to the Cabinet Particulier, where the 
 Emperor signed his abdication, April 5th, 1814. Here is the little 
 table on which it was written, small pieces havingbeen chipped 
 off by the curious. The Cabinet de travail contains the Empe- 
 ror’s writing desk ; the ceiling, by Regnault, represents Law and 
 Force. The Chanibre d coucher contains the same furniture 
 used by the Emperor; the paintings are by Sauvage. Next 
 comes the Salle du Conseil ; its splendid ceiling and the panels 
 of the walls are painted by Boucher. The Salle du TrCme 
 comes next, richly decorated, with a portrait of Louis; XHI. 
 by Philippe de Champagne. Opposite stands the throne, with 
 
I FONTAINEBLEAU. 513 
 
 I a canopy and curtains of red velvet embroidered with gold bees. 
 
 From the richly-gilt ceiling hangs a magnificent lustre of rock- 
 crystttl, valued at 100,000 francs. This room was begun by 
 Charles fX., and decorated by Louis Xlll. and Louis XIV. The 
 throne and draperies were added by Napoleon. Adjoining this 
 is the Boudoir de I’ Iniperatrice, formerly occupied by Marie 
 Antoinette, with a ceiling painted by Barthelemy, representing 
 Aurora. The window-fastenings, beautifully adorned with 
 wreaths of wrought iron, were made by Louis XVI., who is 
 known to have been an adept in the mechanical arts. In the 
 [ centre of the flooring is the cypher of the unfortunate Marie 
 Antoinette. Next is the Empress’s Bedchamber ; the curtains 
 \ and furniture were a present of the City of Lyons to Queen 
 Marie Antoinette; the ceiling is beautifully carved and gilt. 
 
 It has been successively occupied-by-Ma de Loui se, and Marie 
 Amelie, late Queen of the French. The following room is th^ 
 de Reception de V [inperatrice, with a fine table of Sevres 
 porcelain, with the four Seasons, painted by Georget. The 
 panels are by Sauvage, and the ceiling by Barthelemy 
 and Vincent. From the Salon des Dames d’ Honneur, 
 seven steps lead up to the Galerie de Diane, nearly i^metrcs '32S 
 in length, of Doric architecture ; it was partially repau^d 
 by Napoleon, and completed by Louis XVIII. The ceiling is 
 painted by Blondel and Abel de Pujol with scenes from the 
 mythology of Diana and Apollo. In the panels are 26 paint- 
 ings of historical interest, by Granet, Boisselier, Chauvin, 
 Remond, Bouton, etc. A recess at the further end, called 
 the Salon de Diane, contains a beautiful vase of Sevres por- 
 celain, with bas-reliefs, illustrative of the Arts and Sciences. 
 
 This room has now become the Library of the Palace; the 
 old one, situated in what was once calle the Chape le Haute, 
 being now under repair 1). Near one of the windows of the 
 gallery we see the coat of mail woim by the unfortunate Mo- 
 naldeschi when killed by order of Queen Christina of Sweden, 
 on the loth of November, 1667. In the centre of the gallery 
 there is a picture of Henry IV. on horseback, by Mauzaisse, 
 and opposite, a bust of Napoleon III., by Barre. The Em- 
 peror has another library to himself, which is not visible. 
 
 On leaving this gallery, the visitor passes to the landing 
 place of the Escalier de V Imperatrice, with paintings relating to 
 the chase ; the larger one, representing Louis XV. and his 
 
 (i) It is a fine specimen of the talent of Serlio, its architect, 
 who planned it ty order of Francis I. In i807 it became a li- 
 brary ; its music gallery was built by Henry II., whose cypher, 
 interlaced with that of Diane de Poitiers, is still to be seen on 
 the ceiling. 
 
 33 
 
ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 514 
 
 suite a hunting, is by Parrocel, the other by Oudry and Des- 
 portes. This staircase leads to the Appartemen^s Particu- 
 liers, consisting of seven rooms on the ground-floor, which 
 are inhabited by the Prince Imperial and his attendants. The 
 furniture is simple, but elegant. Returning to the landing- 
 place, we enter the AppaYtements de Reception, the first of 
 which is the Antichambre de la Reine, ornamented with ta- 
 pestries, the subjects taken from Don Quixote; next is the 
 Salo7i des Tapisseries, remarkable for its ceiling and hangings 
 of old Flanders tapestry. The ceiling of this room is executed 
 in gilt compartments of inlaid work. The Salon de Fran- 
 gois I. succeeds, with its fine old chimney-piece, and its new 
 \ Gobelins taji^U’y, representing events in French historyT'Sfei’ 
 designs bfRouget. Over the chimney-piece is a medallion, 
 
 ' representing Mars a id Venus, painted by Priraaticcio. Here 
 also we see a small mirror, presented to Louis XIII. by the Re- 
 ])ublic of Venice. The Salon de Louis XIII. looks upon the 
 Four Ovale. This apartment contains the portrait of Louis 
 XilL, wlio was horn in it; it is also adorned with paint- 
 ings hy Ambroise Dubois on the ceiling and panels, with sub- 
 jects borrowed from the Greek romance of Theagenes and 
 Ciiariclea. The oldest part of the chateau is the Salon St. Louis, 
 once inhabited by bim, but much altered, indeed nearly recon- 
 structed at different epochs, between the reigns of Francis I. and 
 Louis Philippe. It contains a high-relief in white marble of 
 Henry IV. on horseback, by Jacquet, an artist contemporary 
 with that great King, whose adventurous life is depicted 
 around the chamber; the splendid ceiling was ordered by 
 Louis Philippe. Passing through the old Salle des Officiers 
 \ de Service, where there are portraits of Henry IV. and Louis 
 / . XVff. in Gobelins tapestry, wc arrive at the Salle des Gardes, 
 j c'onstrilc'ced imcler Louis XIII. It contains cyphers, in panels, 
 of the kings and queens of France, from IV-ancis I. down- 
 wards, and a fine white marble mantel-piece, flanked by two 
 statues of Strength and Peace, by Francarville, and on it 
 a Inist of Henry IV. Next is the Petit Salon Louis XV., 
 with a Diane Chasseresse, by Primaticcio, but this is not 
 shown to strangers. Returning by the Salle des Gardes, and 
 ])iissing through a small pavilion, we arrive at the Escalier 
 dllonneur. This- staircase is rcmarkalile for its elegant scroll- 
 work caryatides, and wreaths in stucco. Its fi-escos, by 
 Rosso, have been rcstoi'ed by Abel de Pujol. This leads to 
 I the most inqiosing room of the whole chateau; it is the Ga- 
 lerie de Henri II., or Salle de Bal, constructed by that king 
 ^ to please his mistress, Diana of Poitiers. The soffits of the 
 j arclies, as well as the spandrels of its ten windows, were 
 
FOiNTAUVEBLEAU . 5 1 5 
 
 painted l)y Priinaticcio and Niccolo, and restored by Alaux. 
 The subjects relate to Ceres, Vulcan, Apollo, Phileiiion and 
 Baucis, &c. It is 90 feet by 30, and titted up with the most 
 luxurious splendour ; the civil marriage of the Duke of Or- 
 leans was celebrated here in 1837. The highly ornamented 
 chimney-piece was the work of the sculptor llondelet. 
 
 A side passage, communicating with this ball-room near 
 the principal entrance, gives access to the Appartements de 
 Madame de Maintenon, now appropriated to the Princess Ma- 
 thilde. They consist of four rooms, in one of which Louis XIV. 
 accepted the offer of the Spanish crown for his grandson from 
 the Spanish Deputies in 1700, an event which led to the War 
 of the Succession. Here also he signed thej:pypcation of the 
 Edict of Nantes . The furniture is of the time.^^ ‘ 
 
 Grossing the Salle de Henri II. , a staircase descends to 
 the ground-floor. The first place of note is the Chapelle 
 de St. Saturnin, originally built by Louis VII. , and 
 consecrated by Thomas a Becket, in 1109, during his 
 absence from England on account of bis contest with 
 Henry II. It was restored and ornamented by Francis I. 
 again by Louis XHL, and finally by Louis Philippe, whose 
 talented daughter, the late Princess Mary, designed the subjects 
 for the stained glass. It is further remarkable as containin'^ ^ 
 the altar at which Pope Pius VII. performed mass in the cha- 
 teau during the eighteen months of his detention, 1812-14. | 
 The vast saloon next this chapel is the Galerie des Colonnes, 
 corresponding in dimensions with the Galerie de Henri II’. 
 above. It served as the waiting-room on levee days; at other 
 times as the private royal dining-room. Here the Duchess of 
 Orleans was married in 1837, according to the rites of the Pro- 
 testant church. The Duchess of Kent dined here with Louis 
 Philippe in 1842. The doors are richly decorated. 
 
 Here we leave the palace by the Porte Doree, facing the 
 Avenue Maintenon and leading to the Cour Ovale; it was built 
 by Francis I. in 1528, and adorned with 8 frescos by Niccolo, 
 designed by Priinaticcio, restored by Picot in 1835 , viz. Her- 
 cules and Omphale, a Titan and Aurora, the Argonauts, Paris 
 wounded, Diana and Endymion, and the Titans cast down from 
 Heaven. By this passage Charles V. made his entry into the 
 chateau in 1539; and through it fled the Duchess d’Etainpes, 
 on the death of Francis L, to avoid the vengeful wrath of Diana 
 of Poitiers. The visitor should here ask to see the Vestibule 
 de St. Louis, which is preceded hy an antechamber adorned 
 with old wood-cai'vings taken from the Galerie de Henri II., 
 This apartment, in the oldest part of the cliateau, w.as restored 
 and decorated by Louis Philippe. It contains statues of 
 
516 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 St. Louis, Philip Augustus, Francis I., and Henry IV., all of 
 whom built or adorned portions of the chateau. The groined 
 vault is painted and gilt, with lleurs de lys on a blue ground. 
 Here the visitor will recognize the Escalicr St. Louis, men- 
 tioned above (see p= 511 = ) 
 
 The Porte Doree is one of the entrances to the Cour Ovale, 
 measuring 77 metres by 38; it has a colonnade all round, 
 closing witli a remnant of a pavilion and turret, said to have 
 been inhabited by St. Louis. This court communicates with 
 the Cour de Henri IV. by the Porte Dauphine, a gate of 
 curious design, flanked with busts, and surmounted by a 
 square gilt cupola, adorned Muth figures of Fame. Under this 
 cupola Louis XIII. was christened. 
 
 Some of the parts of this palace here described can only be 
 visited with a ticket, to be obtained from M. le Grand Mare- 
 chat da Palais, aux Tuilcries- These are ; the Galerie do 
 Diane, the Ai>partemonts de Madame de Maintenon, and the 
 Emperor’s apartments. The PcUts Appartenients, comprising 
 the room where Monaldeschi was killed, being now under 
 repair^ are not visible even with a ticket (1), no more than the 
 
 Salle du Sprctade, in the Aile Neuve. The stage is small, 
 and the house has two galleries, the lower o e reserved for the 
 court, the upper for visitors ; the pit is for the officers of the 
 household. The Salon de I’Empernir is octagonal, andquilted 
 throughout ; the two adjoining rooms are reserved for the 
 Emperor’s suite. A fee is given to the guide. 
 
 The Park and Gardens. — The Jardin Anglais, or, as it is 
 more rightly termed, Pittorcsque, extends along the front of 
 the chateau, from the Aile Neuve, or de Louis XV., which 
 forms one of the sides of the Cour du Cheval Blanc. From the 
 varieties of surface presented by the ground, the sinuosities of 
 the river, and other advantages, the hand of art, even while 
 hiding itself, has contrived to make a wild little paradise of 
 this beautiful spot. The Parterre, laid out by Le Notre, is in 
 the old-fashioned style of gardening, and has a square piece of 
 water. Another garden, the Jardin particulier, faces the im- 
 perial apartments. L’Etang, or great jond, facing the Cour 
 
 fC The Princess Clementine, now Duchess of Saxc Coburg- 
 Gotha, had an apartment here, of great beauty, formerly occu- 
 pied by the Empress Maria Louisa. Napoleon I. himself also oc- 
 cupied an apartment here, and had a private staircase leading to 
 a library above. These were the apartments of Louis Philippe’s 
 sister, Madame Adelaide. Among the reserved apartments were 
 those de I' Aile Neuve, formerly occupied by Napoleon’s sister, the 
 Princess Borghese, and afteVwards by the Duchess de Nemours. 
 Underneath is a suite of seven moms, once occupied by Madame 
 Letitia, mother of Napoleon. 
 
FONTAINEBLEAU. 517 
 
 lie la Fontaine, is a fine piece of water, of a triangular shape, , 
 about 1000 feet long on two of its sides, and 700 feet on the 
 other ; it is entirely lined with sandstone, and contains a vast 
 number of enormous carps, many of them of great age. A 
 diversion peculiar to the place consists in throwing very hard 
 rolls (sold by poor women on the spot) into the pond, and 
 watching the eager and unsuccessful attacks of the carp upon 
 them. In the middle is a han dsome octagonal pavilion, vul- , 
 garly called the Cabinet du Roi, originally construcTed there ! 
 by Francis I. ThrparkTeastof the garden, is large and beau- 
 tiful ; it is traversed in its whole extent by a magnificent canal, 
 4000 feet long and 130 broad, which is fed by springs and the 
 waste water from the basins in the garden. North of this, 
 and skirting the Park, we find the Treille du Roi, a fine 
 row of vines covering a wall nearly a mile long, and 
 bearing grapes of a superior quality, called chasselas de 
 Fontainebleau, though most of those sold under that 
 name are grown at Thomery, on the banks of the Seine, 
 four miles east of Fontainebleau ; the better sorts were intro- 
 duced here by Francis I. This village is worthy of a visit, 
 both for the vineyards in the season, and its curious old 
 church built in 854. The only buildings in the park are the 
 house of the chief gardener, and the stables, formerly the He- 
 ronnieres, from the falcons kept there for flyingat the heron, &;c. 
 
 The Forest of Fontainebleau is sixty -three miles in cir- { 
 cuit, and contains 42,000 acres. Perhaps no forest presents | 
 such a variety of picturesque views ; rocks, ravines, valleys, j 
 plains,— all are found here ; the woods abound in every variety ' 
 of tree ; the meadows, lawns, and cliffs, present every species 
 of plant and flower. The finest point of view in the whole 
 forest is from the Fort de rEmpereur, a belvedere, about a . 
 mile from the town, Trom which an extent of nearly forty ) 
 miles is discovered in almost every direction. By the aid of > 
 good telescopes, always to be found on the spot in fair 
 weather, the P antheon of Paris indistinctly visible from it. } 
 After this, the best views are to be had from the sites called ' 
 platieres, to be met with at intervals; but the localities 
 best worth a visit are perhaps the following, in the order 
 usually taken by the guides; — 1, Mont Ussy, and the Ntd de 
 I’Aigle; 2, the valley of La Solle, and Rocher des Deux Sceurs, 
 hard by which is the curious Rock of St. Germain, where the 
 stones are nearly all crystallized ; 3, la Gorge et Vallon d Apre- 
 mont, containing some of the most picturesque scenei’y in the 
 forest, some very fine old trees, and the Caverne des Brigands, 
 dug out about a century ago by a robber named Thissier and 
 bis band, who were the terror of the environs ; 4, the Hermi-’ 
 
a 18 FnWlKONS OF PARIS. 
 
 tage of Francharcl, about 4 miles west of Fontaiiiel.Ieau juried 
 midst rocks and sands, in a spot havmg the aspect of a cesert 
 althougli once the site of a famous and flourishing monisterv 
 founded ])v Pliihppc Auguste. Here is the celebrated droning 
 rock, la Roche qui pleure, which tlie Aulgar once tloueht 
 yielded water of sovereign virtue in the cure of diseases Pil- 
 grimages were made to it, and no doubt the “ holy friar« ” gave 
 no discoui'agement to the faith in tlie remedial powers" if the 
 ‘ ‘ tears ” of the “ Weeping Rock.” Its superstitious assochtions 
 have long since vanished ; the monastery was suppressed hv 
 Louis XIV., on account of the monks having from timetV time 
 been murdered by hands of robbers, and the place is now 
 resorted to annually by the inhabitants of Fontaineblea;i and 
 surrounding country, for the very secular purpose of liolding 
 a fair on Whit-Tuesday. 5 . La Croix du Grand Vmeur 
 marked liy an obelisk at the point where four roads meet 
 receives its name from the legend of the spectral black hunts- 
 man, Avho was supposed to haunt the forest ; it is said he 
 appeared to Henri IV. shortly before his assassination. There 
 are also the splendid Promenade de la Reine, the Rocher 
 clAvon, near the route de Fontainebleau, the Gorge anx 
 Loups, the Long Rocher, overlooking the village of Montisnv 
 and the Mare anx Evees, a picturesque spot on the Mclun 
 road. Those whose time is extremely limited, may still 
 ?njoy a charming two hours’ walk or drive, by following what 
 IS called the Promenade an Chemin de Fer, extending from 
 the Baiiiere de Melun to the railway station, and comprisine 
 the Mont Calvaire (which offers a beautiful view of Fontaine- 
 bleau and the forest), the Rocher des Marsouins, the Rocher 
 an ruitsdes Ecureuih, the Roche de Leviathan and du Liable 
 the Grotte de Georgine, and part of the Promenade de id 
 Reine; all which points offer the most striking viexvs ima- 
 ginable. It formerly abounded in stags, deer, &c., but these 
 were almost exterminated at the revolution of 1830 ; never- 
 theless it still is a favourite rendezvous for hunting. ’ In the 
 spring and autumn it is much frequented by artists, as it 
 abounds m beautiful landscape studies. No forest in France 
 possesses finer trees, or a greater variety of indigenous plants. 
 It IS so intersected with roads radiating in all directions, that 
 a guide or a map is indispensable; the best are those of M. 
 Denecourt, a pul)lic-spirited gentleman, who has caused blue 
 arrows to be painted upon conspicuous trees in the most fre- 
 quented places, in order to guide the tourist on his way (1). 
 
 Races take place at Fontainebleau during the stay of the 
 Couit at the palace, a circumstance which renders them par- 
 ticularly brilliant and animated. The course is picturesquely 
 
519 
 
 MALMAISON. 
 
 situated in the Vallee de la Solle, a vast arnydiilheali'e sur- 
 rounded by the Rocher St. Germain and the Uiickly-wooded 
 heights of Cassepol, Chauvet, and La Solle. 
 
 GAILLARDON— a small town on the Chartres railway line. 
 It possesses a curious church, a medley of various styles, but 
 containing a beautiful choir ; its most inteiesting lelic is 
 the fantastically shaped ruin of a tower, called L’Fpunle de 
 UaiHardon, built in the 1 1th century by GcoffVoy, Vicomte 
 de Chateaudun, and dismantled by Dunois when he recovered 
 it from the English under Talbot in 1442. 
 
 jSSY — This village, situated beyond Vaugirard, possesses 
 two important eharitable establishments well worth visit- 
 ing : the Hospice des Menages (seep. 118) and the //osp fee 
 Devillas (see p. 119), The former occupies a new and ele- 
 gant building, furnished and provided with comforts in a 
 style perhaps too splendid for the purpose. It will accommo- 
 date 1 ,7 40 persons. The Hospice Devillas adjoining cad re- 
 ceive 80 persons, and is more comfortable. 
 
 MAINTENON — a small town near the Chartres railway 
 line, remarkable for an old and picturesque castle, the seat 
 of the Due de Noailles, who has lately done much to beautify 
 it. It was bought in 1074 by Madame de Maintenon, and 
 was often visited by Louis XIV., who built the left wing, the 
 opposite one being constructed by Madame de Maintenon. Ra- 
 cine, at her request, wrote his two tragedies of Esther and 
 Athalie here, and one of the avenues of the. park still bears 
 his name. Charles X. passed the night after his abdication 
 here, on his way from Rambouillet (see p. 52 5) to the coast. 
 The park, laid out bt Jean Cottcreau and Le Notre, is magni- 
 ficent. It contains “the ruins of an aqueduct commenced by 
 Louis XIV., in order to carry the w^aters of the Eure to the 
 gardens of Versailles, but never completed. 
 
 MAISONS-LAFFITTE — 4 leagues from Paris, on the Rouen 
 railroad, situated on the Seine, with picturesque views. Before 
 the revolution of 17 89, the chateau, a chef d’muvre of Mansard, 
 belonged to the Comte d’ Artois. Napoleon gave it to the 
 Duke de Montebello. It afteiAvards belonged to M. Laffitte, 
 and now toM. Thomas. Voltaire wrote his “ Zaire” here, and 
 was nearlv carried off by the small-pox. 
 
 MALMAISON— 3 leagues west of Paris, near tlie Pans and 
 St. Germain railroad, w^as the favourite residence of Napoleon 
 and the Empress Josephine. The latter died here on the_29th 
 May 1814, and was buried in the small and ancient church of 
 
 , (l) Fo^lainehloau possesses a vatuatde liiiul ol sand tor making 
 
 glass. An English company lias the c.xtinsive privilege of digging 
 and sliqiping il off to England. 
 
520 
 
 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 Rueil (see p. 529). The chateau was bought several years 
 ago by Queen Christina of Spain, from whom it was purchased 
 in 1861 by Napoleon III. A small pavilion to the left, almost 
 surrounded by lime trees, was the private cabinet of the Em- 
 peror, \vhere he meditated and planned some of his greatest 
 campaigns. It contains two paintings by Gariot, representing 
 the signing of the Concordat, and the burning of the bridge of 
 Chatou by order of Napoleon I. 
 
 MARLY— 4 leagues west of Paris, was celebrated for its cha- 
 teau and gardens, erected by Louis XIV., and destroyed during 
 the revolution of 1 7 89. The small village on the banks of the 
 Seine, called Poil dc Muvly, was celebrated for a curious en- 
 gine, invented by a carpenter, by which water was raised by 
 means of two rows of pipes, up to the brow of the hill over- 
 looking the place, to the aqueduct at the top, 300 feet above 
 the Seine. A model of this engine may be seen at the Conserva- 
 toire des Arts et Metiers. This engine was taken down in 
 1857, and a new one, constructed on the same plan consider- 
 ably improved by the engineer, M. Dufrayer, has now been 
 built on the same spot. It consists of six pair of powerful 
 undershot wheels, each of 200 horse-power, and working four 
 pumps. The aggregate quantity of water supplied is 25,000 
 cubic metres per day, raised to a height of 166 metres. The 
 aqueduct, 70 feet high, carries the water raised by the engine 
 to Versailles and other places. The view from the aqueduct 
 IS very fine. The pavilion on the brow of the hill, called 
 Maisons, was built for the celebrated Mme. Dubarry. 
 
 MEUDON — 2 leagues south-west of Paris, is remarkable for 
 the chateau and park, situated on an eminence overlooking 
 the village, and commanding an extensive and beautiful pros- 
 pect. There were formerly two chateaux here ; one of vvhich 
 stood in advance of the present one on the great terrace. 
 Louis XIV. purchased this villa of the widow of the Marquis 
 de Louvois. During the revolution of 17 89, it was used 
 for artillery experiments. In 1795, one of the chateaux 
 being nearly destroyed by a fire, Bonaparte ordered it to he 
 taken down, the gardens to he replanted, and the smaller one 
 to be repaired. In 1814, Louis XVIII. annexed Meudon to the 
 domains of the crown ; it was afterwards used by the Due de 
 Bordeaux, and in 1831 was furnished throughout for the Duke 
 of Orleans, and is now thesummer residence of Prince Napoleon 
 and his family. The approach is through a wide avenue, 
 at the end of which is a magnificent terrace 4 50 yards 
 m length, and 180 in breadth, erected in 1660, by Henri de 
 Guise. The palace consists of a central pedimented pile with 
 two wings of the same height, flanked with pavilions. The 
 
MEUDON. 521 
 
 keystones of the windows and portals bear sculptured masks, 
 bouquets, &c. A Doric vestibule, adorned with statues, the 
 most conspicuous of which is tJlysses, by Debarre, sen., 
 gives access to a staircase, the walls of which are decorated 
 with various pictures, among which are Hercules taking Cer- 
 berus from Hell, by Lenoir; and Meicury lulling Argus to 
 Sleep, by Regnier. The apartments of the Empress Josephine, 
 afterwards inhabited by the late King and Queen, contain 
 several beautiful paintings. The furniture of one of the rooms 
 is covered with Beauvais tapestry, representing various fables 
 of La Fontaine. In the gallery which terminates this suite is a 
 collection of gouaches by Joubert, illustrating the Creation and 
 Fall of Man ; there is besides a copy in bronze of the Boy with 
 the Butterfly, by Chodet ; the bust of the present Emperor, 
 by Barre ; and that of the Empress, by M. de Nieuwekerke. 
 The apartments formerly occupied by Napoleon L, and after- 
 wards by the Duke of Orleans, are entered by the same gal- 
 lery, and contain many superb paintings, among which the 
 Death of Lesueur, by Yignard. In the Salon de Famillc the 
 doors are painted by Boucher ; there are also two paintings 
 by Coypel, representing subjects taken from the tragedies of 
 Corneille. In the Sa'le d manger, now a billiard-room, is 
 a splendid marble statue by Ruxtheil, representing Pan- 
 dora. The furniture is very handsome ; Lyons silk and Gobe- 
 lins tapestry form th e principal decoration. From the windows 
 oTTM” cMteau, or thelerrace, splendid views of Paris are to 
 be enjoyed ; the finest is that of the valley of the Seine, with 
 Paris in the distance. The gardens yvere laid out by Le Notre. 
 The wood of Meudon is extensive, and much frequented in the 
 summer by the Parisians. Meudon was renoyvned for the stud 
 formed here by the Duke of Gramraont, under the reign of 
 Charles X. It was afterwards the property of Louis Philippe, 
 but yvas sold in 1848. At present anew one has been formed. 
 The studhouses, paddocks, 6cc., lie at the upper end of the 
 village. Horses bred here used to be sent to Chantilly to be 
 trained. On the terrace above-mentioned, to the left on en- 
 tering, there are four immense stones (besides smaller ones) 
 discovered in the avenue in 1847, bearing undoubted marks of 
 Druidical origin. On one of them the outline of a horse’s head 
 is roughly sculptured, and still discernible. They have now 
 been grouped in an upward position, somewhat in the form of 
 a rude pyramid. Rabelais yvas the rector of the village of 
 Meudon. Since the death of Prince Jerome, the palace has 
 been closed to the public. — The Versailles railroad (left bank) 
 passes just at the extremity of the avenue, which is close to 
 the Bellevue station. 
 
522 ENVIRONS OF PARIS 
 
 MONT VALERIEN (also called Mont Calvaire). — This hill, 
 a conical isolated mount, about two leagues from Paris, is 
 558 French feet above the Seine. It derives its latter name 
 from a clurpel consecrated there in 1C33. But many centuries 
 before it was a favourite place of worship, successively fre- 
 quented by the Druids and other pagan priests, and the first 
 Christians of Franco, From that time it was respected as a 
 place of religious devotion ; several hermits inhabited its ca- 
 verns, and pilgrimages used to be made to it. At the revolution 
 of 17 89 the custom ceased; hut at the Restoration pilgrimages 
 again came into vogue, and a fraternity of Trappists settled 
 there. At the revolution of 1830, the hill and its dependencies 
 were finally withdrawn from the influence of the church, and 
 the summit is now crowned by one of the strongest forts 
 connected with the defences of Paris, which cost 4,500,000 fr. 
 In a cemetery on the eastern side, Mme. de Genlis was buried. 
 
 MONTMARTRE— (See p. 448.) 
 
 M ONTMORE NCY — a small town, 4 leagues north of Paris, 
 on tile Northern Railroad, delightfully situated on a hill, op- 
 posite Engbien (see p. 507), and commanding a fine view of 
 the picturesque valley of Montmorency. The house called the 
 Hermitage was inhabited by J.-J. Rousseau from 17 56 to 
 17 58. Here he composed his Nouvelle IleMse. His furniture 
 is still shown here. This house afterwards became the pro- 
 perty of the composer Gretry, who died there in 1813; l)ut 
 has since been much altered and spoiled. The church is a 
 beautiful building of the 15th century. The forest of Montmo- 
 rency is extensive and highly picturesque. Horses and asses 
 are to he hired in the market-place, at moderate prices, and 
 halls, much frequented by the Parisians, are given herein sum- 
 mer on Sundays. The country round is celebrated for its cherries. 
 
 MORTEFONTAINE — 9 leagues north-east of Paris, derives 
 its name from M. Le Pelletier de Mortefontaine, who built a 
 chateau there in 1770. It subsequently became the property 
 and favourite residence of Joseph Bonaparte, and afterwards 
 belonged to the Prince de Conde. Mortefontaine abounds with 
 rocks, trees, and water, grouped in most picturesque s;tylc, 
 and, with its well-ornamented gardens, is worthy of a visit. 
 
 NANTERRE. — A village, on the St. Germain railway, 2 
 leagues west of Paris, was the birth-place of Ste. -Genevieve, 
 patron saint of Paris, in the 5th century. A pilgrimage in ho- 
 nour of that saint is held here every year, and the fete de la 
 Rosiere, at which the most virtuous young woman of the vil- 
 lage is crowned by the mayor with a wreath of roses, is an- 
 nually celebrated on the 15th of May. Nanterre contaims an 
 abattoir for hogs, and is celebrated for its sausages and cakes. 
 
NEUILLY. 
 
 523 
 
 NEUILLY. — This village, delightfully situated at half a 
 league from the Arc de I’Etoile, has acquired celebrity on 
 account of its bridge, its elegant villas, and the interesting 
 views which it commands. In ICOG there was merely a ferry 
 at this place, but Henry IV., with his queen, having been pre- 
 cipitated into the water by their horses taking fright, a wooden 
 bridge was constructed, which, however, did pot last many 
 years. The present one, built by Perronnet, is 7 50 feet long, 
 and is composed of 5 arches, each 120 feet in span, and 30 
 in height. The chief ornament of Neuilly, up to the revolu- 
 tion of February, 1848, was the favourite summer residence 
 of Louis Philippe. It contained a valuable library and a 
 choice collection of pictures, as also many interesting memo- 
 rials of the early life and strange vicissitudes of that monarch’s 
 eventful career. The Queen’s dressing-cabinet was highly in- 
 teresting, its only ornaments being the various prizes gained 
 by the princes her children, from their first entrance into their 
 colleges; these were all neatly framed, and, encircled with 
 branches of laurel, formed the sole decorations of the walls. In 
 the park there was a monument, marking the spot where, 
 in July, 1830, a cannon-ball, fired from the Bois de Boulogne, 
 fell at the feet of Louis Philippe, then Duke of Orleans ; and on 
 the same spot the crown of France was offered to him a few 
 days subsequently, by a deputation. Near the spot where the 
 palace stood there is a small circular building, in which the 
 tomh of Diana of Poitiers formerly was, now removed to Dreux. 
 The garden of the Comte de Paris, and an arbour are still vi ■ 
 sible in the rue de Villiers ; it may be visited for a small fee 
 on applying to the concierge, who also possesses a collection 
 of articles once belonging to various members of the Royal 
 family. On the 25th February, 1848, the moh broke into the 
 palace, and committed acts of wanton devastation, (l) In 
 virtue of the decrees of Jan. 22d, 1852, the grounds of Neuilly 
 have been sold in lots, and they are now laid out in beautiful 
 walks and avenues, skirted by charming villas. 
 
 (1) The horrors of that niglit are hardly to he crediled. Tlic 
 marauders penetrated into the cellars, containing immense 
 quanlilies of wine, and Ihispart of the edifice became the scene 
 of frightful and fatal orgies ; for, the madness of intoxication 
 being added to popular fury, a great number were drowned in 
 a well in the cellars. The building was afterwards set fire to, 
 and a great part of it destroyed, but by the exertions of some 
 pupils of the Polytechnic School, aided by the well-disposed 
 persons of the vicinity, the rigid wing, which used to be the resi- 
 dence of Madame Adelaide, was saved and still exists. In the ge- 
 neral intoxication that prevailed, several of the mob, unable in 
 their drunkenness to escape, perished miserably, suffocated by 
 
524 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 PASSY — (Seep. 189.) 
 
 POISSY — at one of the extremities of the forest of St. Ger- 
 main, on the Seine, six leagues west of the capital, is a very 
 ancient town, where the kings of France had a palace at a re- 
 mote period. St. Louis, who was born at Poissy, inhabited 
 the chateau, built the bridge, and established the cattle-market, 
 still held there for the supply of Paris, every Thursday. Once 
 a-year, on the Thursday but one before Shrove Tuesday, a grand 
 meeting or fair takes place for the show of cattle and sheep, 
 at which medals of encouragement and other prizes are 
 given. (1) Philip le Hardi, son of Louis, erected at Poissy, 
 in 1304, a handsome church in honour of his father, and in 
 one of its chapels the font in which St. Louis is said to have 
 been baptized is preserved. Poissy is famous for the confer- 
 ences held between the Catholic and Protestant doctors in 1 561 . 
 In this town is a Maison Centrale de Detetition, for persons 
 condemned to confinement for any term of years. M. Meisson- 
 nier, the celebrated painter, has a splendid villa here. 
 
 PONT DE ST. MAUR — a village near Vincennes, so called 
 from a bridge over the Marne which existed here in the 12th 
 century. There is a curious tunnel here, 1,800 feet in length 
 by 30 width and height, cut through the rock for shortening 
 the navigation of the Marne. 
 
 PRE ST. GERVAIS — outside the fortifications, near Belle- 
 ville, owes its name to a meadow (pre), and a chapel dedicated 
 to St. Gervais. This spot is covered with small country- 
 houses and guinguettes, and its situation and the proximity of 
 the wood of Romainville is an inducement for the admirers of 
 rural scenery to frequent it. 
 
 RAINCY — 4 leagues from Paris, near Livry, is a chateau 
 which formerly belonged to the Sanguins of Livry, but was 
 ceded in 1 7 50 to the Duke of Orleans. In 1 7 89 it was purchased 
 by M. Ouvrard, the banker, and afterwards fell into the hands 
 
 the heat and smoke, thus completing the horrible catastrophe in 
 the cellars ; the number of these wretched victims has never 
 been ascertained. Very few of the pictures or other articles of 
 value were rescued. On the grounds stood a beautiful little pa- 
 vilion, used by the young princes and their guests as a smoking- 
 room, the walls of which were deeorated with yjipes of every 
 description, some of them most curious and valuable. These 
 were all carried off and the pavilion burnt to the ground. 
 
 (i) In 1866 upwards of 3,ooo sheep, pigs, and oxen were 
 brought to the cattle-show, besides a number of capons, fowls, 
 and turkeys, Tbe total sum of the prizes, varying from soo to 
 3,000 fr., amounted to 48,650 fr. Three prizes of honour were 
 given, consisting of silver cups of the value of 3,ooo fr., i,50o fr., 
 and 800 fr,, besides gold apd silver medals. 
 
RAMBOUILLET. 
 
 525 
 
 of Napoleon; it returned to the Orleans family on the Restora- 
 tion, but was included in 1852 in the decrees relating to the 
 property of the Orleans family, and has now been sold in lots. 
 The grounds were laid out in the English style, and the chateau 
 was much improved by Louis Philippe. The chateau de Mont- 
 fermeil, of the time of Louis XIIL, was annexed to Rainey. 
 
 RAMBOUILLET is a small town in the department of the 
 Seine et Oise, 1 1 leagues south-west of Paris, on the Chartres 
 railway. The town itself has nothing particular to recommend 
 it, except two houses of Doric design in a hy-streei, to the 
 left on proceeding up the rue Imperiale, which were the wings 
 of a palace built for the King of Rome. There is also the 
 Mairie, a building of good though modest design, built by 
 Napoleon I. in 1809, and situated on the Place d’Armes. The 
 Gothic church, which forms another side of this square, is 
 remarkable for its evident antiquity, being of the style 
 prevalent in the eleventh century. It contains a picture 
 by Vanloo, the Vision of St. Hubert. In an adjoining 
 by-street is a large building 240 yards in length, now 
 used for barracks. But its chief attraction lies in the chateau 
 and park, formerly belonging to the Counts of Toulouse, and 
 situated opposite to the Mairie. It is a large structure of 
 brick, flanked with three towers with peaked roofs, and a 
 larger one of stone, crowned with battlements, evidently of 
 an earlier date than the rest. Francis I. died here, and the 
 chamber is still shown where he was wont to hold his levees. 
 Adjoining are rooms once inhabited by Diane de Poitiers. 
 The Duke de Guise visited the chateau several times ; Cathe- 
 rine de Medicis and Charles IX. took refuge in it during the 
 battle of Dreux. It was also inhabited by Rabelais, Talle- 
 raand des Reaux, and Voiture. Madame de Maintenon lived 
 here with Louis XIV., who held his court in this chateau for 
 several years. It was neglected by Louis XV., but Louis XVI. 
 and Marie Antoinette often chose it for their residence. 
 Napoleon slept here for the last time previous to his taking 
 refuge at Rochefort. Charles X. visited it frequently for 
 hunting ; it was here he signed his abdication, Aug. 2d, 1830. 
 It was then invaded by the Parisians, and the people leturned 
 to the capital in the carriages of the court. During the revo- 
 lution of 1848 the palace was let to a speculator for public 
 balls, but since 1832 it has returned to the Civil List, and been 
 considerably improved. There is a ferruginous spring in 
 the vicinity. 
 
 The Palace — is composed of two wings, at right angles to 
 each other, and having at each corner an engaged circular 
 turret surmounted by a spire, besides a massive round tower 
 
526 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 crowned with battlements, a remnant of the ancient fortified 
 castle which stood here in the 14th century. A balcony runs 
 all round the first story on the garden side. On entering the 
 palace from the court, we are ushered into the Salon de Re- 
 ception, a fine room, overlooking a flower garden which bor- 
 ders on a sheet of water branching out into the park in three 
 directions. From this spot we see the Pavilion des Roches, 
 a small summer-house on an islet of that name, where a 
 grotto exists called la Marmitede RaMais, because frequented 
 by that great satirist. It was a favourite retreat of Napoleon I., 
 and has been thoroughly repaired. The next room to the 
 left is that in which Charles X. signed his abdication in 
 1 8.30 ; adjoining is his bed-room. These three rooms are bare 
 of furniture. Returning to the Salon, a door opposite leads 
 by a few steps to the dining-room, entirely wainscoted with 
 finely carved oak. Here a door gives access to a small chapel 
 situated in one of the turrets ; although in a dilapidated con- 
 dition, its walls still display the emblems of Louis XVI. Next 
 follows the Salle de Billard, now bereft of its billiard-table. 
 On the wall facing the windows we see a large map of the 
 Arrondissement of Rambouillet, in the proportion of i to 
 7200 ; it was partly executed by Louis XVI. Next follows 
 a Salon, the only apartment possessing some elegant Beauvais 
 furniture ; then a Salon d' A llenle, and two other rooms, one 
 formerly the library, and the other the study, of Napoleon I. 
 It was in this room the annexation of Holland to France was 
 decreed in 1810. All these rooms are remarkable for the 
 lieaiitiful oak carving which covers the walls, and would alone 
 warr.Hiit a visit to this palace. Most of the cast-iron plates of 
 the fire places display the arms of the Counts of Toulouse — 
 three fleurs de lys separated by a bar. We next come to 
 the Salle de Rain, a room painted with arabesques and 
 views of Rome, the Tuileries, etc., in medallions. Among 
 them there is one representing the palace, mentioned above, 
 l)uilt for the King of Rome. The unsuccessful attempts of the 
 Bourbons to efface the emblejns of the Napoleonic dynasty 
 are here exemplified by the fleurs de lys added to the Imperial 
 crown painted on the panels. Adjoining this is Napoleon the 
 First’s bedroom. Marie Louise slept here for the last time on 
 the night previous to her departure for Vienna in 1814. In 
 the next room there is a fine screen of Gobelins tapestry of 
 Louis XVL’s time. Proceeding to the upper story, we enter 
 three apartments, once inhabited by Queen Ilortense ; the 
 furniture here, dating from the empire, is of beautiful ash- 
 wood. A winding staircase now leads to the uppermost story, 
 where we find the room in which Francis I. died : it is situ- 
 
RAMBOUILLET. 
 
 527 
 
 ated in the larf;c round tower. The low ceiling, and the di- 
 lapidated condition in which it is, give it more the appearance 
 of a garret than a regal apartment. From its window we 
 perceive the flat surface of a grove or quinconce of 67 0 lime- 
 trees cropped in the old French fashion ; it is a remarkable 
 specimen of that style. Descending to another part of the 
 second story, we enter a suite once inhabited by theDuchesse 
 de Berri, and another occupied by the Duchesse d Angouleme, 
 who slept here for the last time on the 29th of July, 1830. 
 Adjoining is the Galerie, now bare, but once filled with the 
 collection of pictures belonging to the Due de Penthievre, the 
 brother of Louis Philippe’s greatgrandmother. Descending to 
 the ground-floor, we pass through a series of rooms contain- 
 ing the kitchens, the Salle des Gardes, etc., and a small room 
 entirely covered with Dutch tiles of Louis XIV. s time, willi 
 views of Dutch scenery in blue on a white ground. Some of 
 those which cover the floor date as, far back as Francis the 
 First’s time. Returning, we enter the Salle de Mars, a large 
 hall, with its walls entirely incrusted with grey and red 
 marble ; it was the great dining-hall of the court. The walls 
 are here upwards of seven feet in thickness. The total number 
 of apartments in the palace is 71, with 09 chimney pieces, 
 most of which are remarkable for their costly marble and 
 fine sculpture. 
 
 The Park and Gardens. — Of the 35,000 acres whicli 
 compose the park and adjoining forest, upwards of 30 are 
 covered by the canals, ponds, and rivulets which intersect it 
 in every direction, and are stocked with the finest carp. It 
 possesses splendid avenues, one of which is remarkable for a 
 curious kind of tree, the ta.vodiwn (or cypress) of Louisiana. 
 Some of its seeds having been brought over in Louis XIII.’s 
 time, and carelessly thrown on a heap of rubbish, germinated, 
 and at letigth attracted the attention of the gardeners by the 
 curious shape of the leaves. They were then taken care of, and 
 have now risen to an enormous size, averaging 120 feet. The 
 gardens adjoining the palace were laid out l)y Lenotre. 
 
 On leaving the chateau, a road leads to the Laiterie 
 de la Reine, a Doric pavilion built by Marie Antoi- 
 nette, and situated about half a mile from the palace. 
 It contains two rooms, the first of which is circular, sur- 
 mounted by a cupola ; around the walls are slabs of 
 white marble resting upon elegant consoles, where basins 
 of fresh milk were placed for the Queen and her suite. 
 In the middle of this room is a magnificent round table of 
 while marble, with a mosaic of coloured marble in the centre. 
 The adjoining room is rectangular, the back ground being 
 
528 ENVinONS OF PAtUS. 
 
 occupied by an artificial grotto, with rocks forming a rustic 
 liasin, in the centre of which is a beautiful marble statue of 
 Venus entering the bath, executed by Beauvallet in 1 8 1 1 . There 
 is a reservoir for water on the roof of the building, which it takes 
 two men to fill, when occasion requires, by the aid of pumps. 
 The water is then let into the grotto, and falls over the shoulders 
 of the Venus, while at the same time four jets d’eau issue 
 from the pavement. The floors of both these rooms are of 
 polished marble, white and red, and the general effect is 
 beautiful. The bas-reliefs which formerly adorned the walls 
 of the Latter ie are now at La Malmaison (see p. 5l!i). The 
 domestic that shows this will also conduct the visitor to a pa- 
 vilion close byj called the Pavilion desQuatre Saisojis, from 
 four excellent grisailles by Sauvage, representing the sea- 
 sons, and which adorn the walls of the principal chamber, 
 which is circular. Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette used to 
 breakfast here in the summer season. Napoleon I. also used 
 to visit this place very frequently. The stranger should 
 next visit Le^ Coquillages, a small rustic lodge a short way 
 off in the park. The roof is thatched and the outer walls, of 
 rough stone, contrast strangely with the tasteful little circular 
 parlour contained within, adorned with eight Ionic pilasters, 
 niches, garlands, an ornamented cupola and a fire-place — all 
 formed of different s' ells, large and small, and bits of broken 
 bottles, very ingeniously arranged so as to produce a most 
 pleasing effect. Adjoining is a small room, or rather closet, 
 where Napoleon I. used to partake of a frugal breakfast, cooked 
 in a little kitchen a few steps off. Close to this spot, under 
 some trees, is a large stone on which he was often seen to 
 spread out his plans and maps when projecting a campaign. 
 The forest adjoining contains upwards of 30,000 acres, and 
 measures 50 leagues in perimeter. 
 
 The Farm. — A few minutes’ walk along the road to the 
 right of the Laiterie leads to the Emperor’s farm, graced 
 with the following motto over the gate from Virgil's Eclogues: 
 
 “Curat oves, ovumque inagisiros.” 
 
 The land pertaining to this farm is about 400 hectares. Op- 
 posite are the Bergeries, founded in 17 85 by Louis XVI. on 
 the recommendation of M. d’Angevilliers. Several new build- 
 ings have since been added to them, and they now contain 
 about 700 merino sheep, remarkable for their fleeces. Each 
 full grown animal yields from 3 to 5 kilogrammes of wool. 
 Skirting the same road by which we came is the Emperor’s 
 
 Faisanderie, where pheasants and hares are reared for the 
 Imperial chase. The ground is about 12 hectares in extent, 
 and is worthy ofa visit. There are about 1,300 pheasants here. 
 
ST. CLOUD. 
 
 529 
 
 The last railway station before arriving at Rambouillet is 
 Lartoire, where there are the Elands dt St. Hubert. Here 
 Madame Dubarry had a small chateau called St. Hubert-le- 
 Roi, and adorned with sculpture by Pigalle. It was utterly 
 destroyed during the revolution, and only its foundations now 
 exist. To visit the Palace of Rambouillet and its dependencies, 
 apply to M. le Ministre de la Maison de I'Empereur. 
 
 ROMAINVILLE — a village, two miles from Paris, affords 
 ione of the finest views in the environs. The wood is not exten- 
 sive, but its proximity to the capital makes it much frequented . 
 
 RUEIL. — This town is situated at the distance of three leagues 
 and a half from Paris, and about half a mile from the St. 
 Germain railroad. It possesses a church, remarkable both for 
 its Saxon architecture and the monuments it contains. The 
 steeple and transepts were reconstructed in 1857, but the rest 
 of the church dates from 1603. The interior consists of a nave 
 and two aisles ; in the choir, fronting the nave, stands a monu- 
 ment to Count Tascher de la Pagerie, consisting of a sarco- 
 phagus of white marble ; but the chief objects of interest are the 
 monuments to the Empress Josephineand Queen Hortense, occu- 
 pying the lateral chapels of the choir. The first, in the right - 
 hand aisle, executed m white marble by Cartellier, consists 
 of an arch surmounted by raking cornices, and supported by 
 four Ionic columns resting on a basement ; the Empress is re- 
 presented kneeling on a cushion in the act of prayer. The base- 
 ment bears the initials J.B., and the inscription ; A Josephine, 
 Eugene et Hortense, 1825. In the opposite aisle stands a 
 nearly similar monument to Queen Hortense, erected by the 
 present Emperor, instead of another which he had caused to 
 be executed during his exile. The Queen is kneeling in sor- 
 rowful meditation ; above is the Angel of Resignation, by 
 Bane. The basement bears the inscription : A la Heine 
 Hortense, son fUs Napoleon III. From this chapel a flight 
 of 22 steps descends into a vault underneath, where the mortal 
 remains of the Queen are preserved in a sarcophagus, pro- 
 fusely sculptured and gilt. It is surmounted by the arms 
 of Holland, and an inscription records the dates of the Queen s 
 birth and death. On the intrados of the arch above we see 
 the monogram “ E. H.” (Eugenie Hortense.) The carved 
 wood-work of the organ was brought hither from Florence, by 
 order of the Emperor. It is the work of Baccio d’Agnolo, a 
 contemporary of Michael Angelo. Funeral services are annually 
 celebrated here to the memory of these princesses. 
 
 SAINT CLOUD. — This small town, situated on the Seine, 
 2 leagues west ^f Paris, was so called from St. Clodoald, grand- 
 son of Clovispwho, having escaped when his brothers were 
 
 .34 
 
 
530 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. | 
 
 murdered by their uncle Clotaire, concealed himself here in a | 
 wood, and lived as a hermit. Being canonized after his death, 
 the former name of the place, Novigentum, was altered to its 
 present appellation. It was burnt by the English in 1358, and 
 again by the party of the Armagnacs in 1411. It was at St. 
 Cloud that Henry III. was assassinated by Jacques Clement, 
 in 1589; Henrietta,, the consort of Charles I., of England, died 
 herein 1G70; and here the coup d’etat of the 18th Brumaire 
 (10th November, 1799), which placed Bonaparte at the head 
 of the government of France, was effected, in 1815 the ca-, 
 pitulation of Paris was signed at this palace; and liere also, in 
 1830, Charles X. signed the famous decrees which caused the 
 revolution of July, and received the first tidings of it. The 
 town lies on the slope of a hill, and is, in summer, owing to the 
 railroad and steamers (see page 3), a place of daily increasing 
 resort. There are several fine villas erected on its outskirts, 
 and it is one of the healthiest places in the neighbourhood 
 of Paris. 
 
 The Palace, which is now the usual summer residence 
 of the present Emperor, was originally built in 1572, by 
 Jerome de Gondy, a rich financier. After his death, it was 
 possessed consecutively by four bishops of Paris, of the same 
 family, and was renowned for the extent and beauty of its 
 gardens. Louis XIV. purchased the chateau in 1058, and pre- 
 sented it to his brother, the Duke of Orleans, who spared no 
 expense in improving and adorning it. The repairs and 
 additions were executed under the direction of Lepaute, Girard, 
 and Mansard. Le Notre was charged to lay out the park, 
 which is considered to be his chef-d’oeuvre. This magnificent 
 seat of the Dukes of Orleans continued in their family till 17 82, 
 when it was purchased by Louis XVI. for Marie Antoinette, 
 who took great delight in St. Cloud, added several buildings, 
 and often visited it, accompanied by the king. Napoleon 
 always had a marked predilection for the chateau of St. Cloud, 
 as being the theatre of his first elevation. It was in the 
 Salle de I’Orangerie, now demolished, that the events of the 
 18th Brumaire took place, and in this palace he transacted the 
 affairs of the empire more frequently than at Paris. It consists 
 of a court with three piles of buildings, and other wings 
 irregularly connected with them. At the entrance of the 
 court are two statues representing Commerce and Agricullui’e. 
 The terrace commands a beautiful view. The princip.al front 
 is 140 feet in length by 70 in height, and is nicely sculp- 
 tured. The columns of the central compartment are Corin- 
 thian. Annexed to the palace arc large barracks, staldcs, &c. 
 Sixty horses arc always kept here for the use of the court. 
 
 
ST. CLOUD. 531 
 
 The saddle-horses are English, and those for carriages 
 Chiefly Norman. 
 
 Interior. — On entering the Grand Vestibule, from the Cour 
 d’Honneur, the visitor will perceive, right and left, two re- 
 cumbent marble statues, Venus and Psyche, sleeping, by 
 Huguenin ; and, in front, Sappho, by Pradier, the last 
 statue he executed before his death. He will then as- 
 rcend the Escalier d’Hdnneur, a magnificent marble staircase 
 fwith Ionic pilasters, adorned with a large picture, by Muller, 
 
 * representing the reception of Queen Victoria at St. Cloud, by ( 
 'the Emperor in 1835. This painting is seen to the best ad- 
 ' vantage from the top of the staircase; the most conspicuous 
 ■ figures are those of the Emperor and Empress, the Queen, 
 Prince Albert, and Lord Clarendon. The ceiling of the upper 
 vestibule, painted by Claude Audran, represents Hisloiy 
 writing the Life of Philip of Orleans. (1) It opens upon a 
 road, over which is a bridge, called the Pont du Trocadero. 
 
 A door to the right opens into the Salon de Mars, com- 
 municating with the Grands Appartements, and adorned 
 with eight Ionic pilasters, and four monolith columns; the 
 walls are sculptured with trophies, and the ceiling, by Mi- 
 gnard, represents, in various compartments, Olympus, Mars, 
 and Venus, the forges of Vulcan, Jealousy and Discord. 
 Over the chimney-piece is the equestrian portrait of Napoleon L, 
 by Gros, executed in the year XL In the centre of the room is 
 a splendid divan, encircling a rich flowered chandelier, and 
 supported by three genii of gilt bronze, with eagles. All the 
 furniture is in red damask and Beauvais tapestry. Next comes 
 the Galerie d’ Apollon, a vast saloon ( 2 ) . The ceiling, in Mignard’s 
 ])est style, repi esents subjects of the mythology of Apollo ; his 
 birth, that of Diana; Apollo, as God of Light, as chief of the 
 Muses, the seasons, &c. The walls, profusely gilt, are covered 
 with a great number of excellent pictures, comprising numerous 
 Canalettis, and paintings by Mignard, Van Dels, Van Spaen- 
 donk, &c., with several by modern French artists. Here is 
 also an extensiv^e collection of cabinets in tortoiseshell and in 
 buhl, with fine specimens of Sevres porcelain, and several small 
 pieces of statuary. At the further end of this gallery there | 
 is a marljlg^statuepf the Em press Josephine. Adjoining this j 
 is the Salon Se Diane, richly painted byTHignard, with subjects 
 relating to Diana. It contains several fine pictures, including 
 
 (1) It was in this A'estibule Henry III. was assassinated, August 
 2, 1589, by tlie fanatical Dominican monk, Clement. 
 
 (2) Here Pius Alt. baptized Prince Napoleon, eldest son of 
 Prince .terome, in 1805, and tbe civil marriage of Napoleon wilb 
 Marie Louise was also celebrated bore in i8io. 
 
532 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 portraits of Henry IV., by Franquc ; Louis XIII., and Louis XIV, 
 by Badin; the Regent Duke of Orleans, by Balthazar; and 
 Louis Philippe Egalite, by Boulanger. Next is the Chapelle_ 
 of Ionic and Doric design. The coves of the ceiling are 
 painted in grisaille by Sauvage, in 12 compartments. The 
 altar piece, a bas-relief in white marble, by Lesueur, repre- 
 sents the Presentation in the Temple. Four balconies open 
 into it from the Galerie d’Apollon. Returning to the Salon de 
 Mars, a door to the left opens into a suite of rooms occupying, 
 the whole range of the principal front, and beginning with the 
 Salon de Venus. The ceiling, by Lemoine, represents Juno 
 borrowing Venus’s girdle ; the walls are hung with beautiful* 
 specimens of Gobeli^tapestix. (1) Opposite the windows we| 
 see two costly tables oTFiorence mosaic, with marble busts of| 
 Madame Letitia, and the father of Napoleon L Next is the Sa-|i 
 Ion de Famille, or de Minerve ; the ceiling, by Antoine Coypel,| 
 represents the Triumph of Truth; on the walls is continued 
 the series of tapestry above alluded to. (2) Here are also 
 busts of Napoleon I. and Prince Eugene Beauharnais. In an 
 adjoining room to the right of this is the Library, a lofty hall 
 with a skylight, and two tiers of galleries ; it contains 12,000 
 volumes. Returning to the Salon de Famille, the visitor is 
 led to the Salon de Mercure, formerly the council-chamber 
 under Napoleon, and now the billiard-room, with a bust 
 of the first Napoleon on the mantelpiece. The billiard- 
 table is richly inlaid with gilt arabesques and mother-of-pearl; 
 the ceiling is by Allaux, and represents Mercury and Pandora; 
 the walls are hung with tapestry like the former ones. (3) 
 Valuable furniture in Beauvais tapestry adorns all these apart- 
 ments. The Salon de I’Aurore, with a ceiling representina Au- 
 rora, by Loir, and the walls adorned with sculptured tro- 
 phies, closes this suite, communicating with the Esca- 
 Her de V Imperatrice, a staircase with a beautifully-wrought 
 iron balustrade. The doors to the left give access to the Era- 
 
 (-1) Four of these are copies of the paintings executed by Ruben! 
 for Marie de M6dicis, and represent: her Birth; Henry IV. re- 
 ceiving her portrait; her Marriage ■with him at Florence, and he 
 portrait as Bellona. The fifth represents the Duke of Anjou de- 
 clared King of Spain (Philippe V.) 
 
 (2) The subjects are : the Marriage of Henry IV. ■with Marie d( 
 MMicis at Lyons, two months after the preceding one ; the Birtl 
 of Louis Xlll. at Fontainebleau ; Marie de M6dicis invested bj 
 Henry IV. with the government of the kingdom, and her recon- 
 ciliation with her son. 
 
 (3) Tlie' subjects are; the Triumph of Truth ; the Flight of Ma-i 
 rie de M^dicis from Blois; her Journey to Ponts-de-Ce ; the Con- 
 clusion of Peace; the Destiny of Marie de M^dicis. 
 
533 
 
 ^ ST. CLOUD. 
 
 I 
 
 peror and Empress’s private apartments ; they were formerly 
 inhabited by the Duchesse de Berri, and subsequently by the 
 buchesse d’Orleans. Queen Victoria occupied them in August, 
 1855. The first room of this suite is the dining-room, with 
 elegantly sculptured sideboards, one of which figured in the 
 Great Exhibition of 1 855. Next follows the Salon do VcrncI, 
 decorated with eight paintings by Joseph Vernet. Here we 
 see the Empress's bath chair, a present from Queen Victoria, 
 adorned with two pictures representing Summer and Winter. 
 In one of the corners there is a beautiful table executed in 
 Roman mosaic, representing various sub ects. This table was 
 intended by Pius VII. as a present to Napoleon I., but was 
 subsequently presented by Leo XII. to Charles X. We now 
 enter the Empress’s bed-room, with the furniture and hangings 
 of beautiful Lyons manufacture. Adjoining is the Salle de 
 Bain, in gold and white ; the bath is concealed under a sofa. 
 Next follows the Empress s reading-room, a beautiful apart- 
 ment, profusely decorated with carvings in lime-wood and 
 maple ; the ceiling, by Gallois, is adorned with Cupids and 
 genii. From the windows of this and the adjoining rooms, 
 which overlook the Parc reserve, we may perceive an avenue 
 which occupies the site of the celebrated Salle de I’Oraiifierie. 
 The Salon conies next ; it has beautiful Beauvais furniture, 
 and is decorated in gold and white, xvith medallions on the 
 walls. The following rooms xvere occupied by Prince Albert. 
 The first is the Emperor’s bed-room, with hangings and fur- 
 niture of Lyons manufacture, and with the portraits of Hen- 
 rietta of England and Anne of Austria. Next follows the » 
 Emperor’s study, adorned with full-length portraits of Marie 
 Antoinette and her three children, the Princesse de Lamballe ! 
 and Marie Leezinska, executed in Gobelins tapestry. TheJ 
 paintings over the door are by Boucher. The Emperor’s 
 table is inlaid with bronze, and covered with red morocco. 
 This suite was formerly inhabited by Marie Antoinette, and 
 successively by Josephine, Marie Louise, and Louis Phi- 
 lippe. (1) It communicates with the first vestibule men- 
 tioned at p. 531). 
 
 In the vestibule below is a fine marble statue of Minerva, by 
 Wasse. The ground floor was occupied by Madame Adelaide, 
 
 ' (0 He passed a few moments here in his flight from Paris, on 
 
 ^February 24 lh, 1 8 48. These rooms contain several good paint- 
 ings, sucli as the Arrest of Sir Thomas More, by Miss Collins; the 
 Interior of a Chapel in the Eglise des Feuillanis of Paris, now 
 destroyed, by Daguerre, and a view of the Park of the Chateau 
 d’En, with Queen Victoria and Prince Albertenjoying a walk. The 
 Lord Mayor of Lontlon was enter I allied here in 1851. 
 
534 EiVVmONS OF PARIS. 
 
 sister of Louis Philippe, (l) and the second by the Duke 
 and Duchess of Nemours. 
 
 The Parc Reserve begins at the chateau, and extends to the 
 summit of the hill. U contains flower-gardens and plantations 
 of trees, and is ornamented with pieces of water, and statues, 
 by the most celebrated artists of the age of Louis XIV. The 
 Emperor has stocked it with deer imported from England. 
 
 The Grand Parc extends from the Seine and the road from 
 Sevres to St. Cloud, to the back of the hill, and is about four 
 leagues iii circumference. The entrance is near the bridge; a 
 wide avenue of chestnut-trees runs parallel to the river. To 
 the right are plantations of chestnuts and limes, in the midst of 
 which is the grand cascade. Beyond, separated from the park 
 by a fosse lined with masonry, and extending as far as Sevres, 
 / are some tine avenues of elms. The entrance from Sevres is 
 \ between two Doric pavilions at the foot of the bridge. The 
 I park is beautifully diversified, presenting varieties of wood, 
 \ Avater, level sward, and picturesque acclivities. Several points 
 on the higher parts of the grounds command admirable glimpses 
 of the surrounding scenery. ( 2 ) The cascade of St. Cloud, 
 the joint work of Lepautre and Mansard, is divided into la 
 Haute Cascade and la Basse Cascade ; at the summit of the first 
 is a group, by Adam, representing the Seine and Marne, each 
 reposing on the urn from which water issues. Upon an ele- 
 vated flight of steps are placed urns and tablets, from which 
 water falls into basins situated one under the other, the last sup- 
 plying by means of an aqueduct the lower cascade, which is 
 separated from the upper by the Allee du Tillet. The Basse 
 Cascade nearly resembles a horse-shoe in form, and is remark- 
 able for the abundance and rapid descent of its waters, which 
 fall in sheets from one basin to another into a canal 201 feet in 
 length, by 93 in its greatest breadth, along which are 1 2 jets 
 d’eau. The architecture of the cascade is ornamented with 
 rock and shell-work, dolphins, and other appropriate emblems, 
 and nothing can be more beautiful than its effect when in full 
 pb^y* The grand jet d’eau, known by the name of the Jet 
 (ieant, is to the left of the cascades, in front of a fine alley; it 
 rises with immense force to the height of 140 feet from the 
 centre of a basin, and throws up nOOO gallons per minute. By 
 its side is a small stone fountain of remarkable elegance. The 
 waters generally play every second Sunday in summer. (3) 
 
 (It Now inhabited by the Prince Imperial. 
 
 (2) We advise the visitor who comes from Paris to SI. Cloud 
 I'.y railway (rive droitc), to take his scat on thc/e/c side, of^tlic 
 inu’rjuijje, by Avhichbe Avill occasionally obfaiirio^ly prospects. 
 ^I^riiC (.lay is atiuouiicecl Defoieliaiid in GaUgnani's Messenger. 
 
ST. CLOUD. 635 
 
 3ne of the finest spots in the park is that on which is built 
 ;he Lantern of Demosthenes, erroneously known by the name 
 3 f Lantern of Diogenes. Count de Choiseul-Goullier, during 
 tiis residence in Greece, had casts taken of the pretty monu- 
 ment at Athens bearing the former name, and covered with 
 aasso-relievos executed by Lysicrates. From these casts Na- 
 poleon I. caused the monument now in the park to be con- 
 structed . It is a tall square tower, crowned with a cupola, sup- 
 i))orted by six Corinthian columns. From the summit a splendid 
 h'iew is obtained of Paris and its environs. The chateau is 
 V isible (when the Emperor does not inhabit it, which he only 
 docs in summer) every day from 12 to 3, with a ticket to be 
 ()i)lained by writing to M. le General Rol in, aux TuiUries. 
 
 A stone bridge of fourteen arches connects St. Cloud with 
 the opposite bank, and the town of Boulogne, a place of above 
 7,000 inhabitants, which gives its name to the well-known 
 wood ( see p. 48G). One of the arches is of cast-iron, and the 
 footpaths rest on cast iron arches and consoles. 
 
 The Fkte of St. Cloud begins every year on the 7th of Sep- 
 tember, and lasts three weeks. It is the most celebrated in the 
 vicinity of Paris, and attracts immense crowds, particularly 
 on Sundays. It is held in the park, and is well worth visiting. 
 
 If the visitor be provided with a special ticket, he may 
 claim the services of an attendant to accompany him through 
 the Parc Reserve, when, after about an hour's walk, he will 
 arrive at the pretty Chateau of 
 
 Villeneuve VEtang, now belonging to the present Emperor, 
 and formerly to the Duchessc d’Angouleme. It deri^TS some 
 interest from a weeping-willow, reared from a cutting of that 
 Nvhich overhangs Napoleon’s tomb at St. Helena, having been 
 planted here in 185.3. It is 30 feet high, and 90 feet in cir- 
 [cumference round the branches. The cutting was brought to 
 France by the Prince de Joinville in 184 0, w'hen the remains of 
 the Em])cror arrived in France. There is also a large ice-house 
 here, besides a valuable In-ceding-stud. To visit Yilleneiive 
 I’Etang, apply in writing to M. le Minislre de la Maison de 
 VEnipereur. The village of the same name is hard by. 
 
 Proceeding outside the park along the high road, on the 
 plateau wdiich overlooks St. Cloud, the stranger may (!ti ter 
 ;thc pretty park of Montretout, studded with villas. Further 
 I on, a road to the right leads to 
 
 I Fouilleuse, a farm belonging to the Emperor, containing 
 about 2 30 acres, with various paddocks, in tlie English 
 style. Small as it is, it has already cost u|)wnrds of 
 a ‘million of francs. The grounds to the right of the road form 
 part of the domain of the Crown. 
 
536 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 Returning to the high road, we soon arrive at Garc/its, a small 
 commune, remarkablefor the extensive buildings of tin /fospme 
 de la Reconnaissance, founded by M. Brezin, for the ceception 
 of disabled workmen belonging to certain trades iseep, 123 ). 
 
 Opposite this an avenue leads to La Marche, a ^illage ce- 
 lebrated for its race-course (see p. 4 83), and continuing 
 along the avenue we arrive at Ville d’Avraj/, whence we may 
 return by the Versailles railway (right bank) to Park. 
 
 ST. CYR— a village six leagues south-w'est of Paris, is cele- 
 brated for the Maison de St. Cyr, founded by Louis XIV. in 
 1686, at the solicitation of Mme. de Maintenon, for the edu- 
 cation of 250 young noble ladies. On the death of the king, 
 Mme. de Maintenon retired to it, and died there in 17 9 . The 
 plans were furnished by J. H. Mansard. In 1793, tkis insti- 
 tution was converted into a military hospital, and ,n 1806, 
 Napoleon ordered the military school of Fonlainebbau to be 
 transferred to St. Cyr, where it has since remained, under the 
 title of Ecole speciale militaire de St. Cijr. The nmiher of 
 pupils is upwards of 300, who are admitted from th) ages of 
 17 to 20, after a severe examination. Pupils pay 1,500 fr. 
 annually, besides an allowance for wardrobe and equipments. 
 They stay two years, and leave with the rank of sub-lieu- 
 tenants of infantry, cavalry, marines, or the sta;T. The 
 uniform is distinguished from that of the infantry ly a sky- 
 blue collar. 
 
 ST. DENIS — a town five miles north of Paris, on the Nor- 
 thern railway-line, and containing about 9000 inhabitants. (1) 
 
 History. — This town owes its celebrity to its ancient Bene- 
 dictine Abbey, and to the circumstance of the kings of France 
 having chosen the ahbey-church for their place of burial. A 
 chapel was founded here in honour of St. Denis about 250, in 
 which Dagobert, son of Chiipcric, was buried in 580, heing’the 
 lirst prince known to have been interred within its w^alls. Da- 
 gobert I. founded the abbey of St. Denis in 613 ; and Pepin, 
 father of Charlemagne, commenced a new churdi, which was 
 finished by his son, and consecrated in 775. Of this edifice 
 nothing now remains except the foundations of the crypt. 
 Sugcr, abbot of the monastery during the reign of Louis VII., 
 demolished the church, and built a more majestic one in 1144, 
 of which the porch and two towers remain ; the rest of the 
 building was reconstructed by St. Louis and his successor, be- 
 tween 1250 and 1281. In 1373, Charles V. built the first 
 
 {!) Tj'ains start from and to Paris every liour. Omnibuses, for 
 which no extra charge is made, convey visitors to and from Hie 
 Abbey. In the days of February, 1 8 is, a mob attarked the rail- 
 road station, set fire to it, and tore up the rails for several miles-- 
 
ST. DENIS. 537 
 
 chapel on the right of the entrance, and now forming part of 
 the Ch.anir d'Hiver (see p. 540), as a place of sepulture 
 for himself and his family. The kings and princes of 
 France were interred in this Abbey until 1789; the church 
 and vault of the Bourbons were chosen by Napoleon I. 
 as a place of sepulture for the princes of his own dynasty, 
 and by a decree of Jan. 18 59, it has again become the burial- 
 place of the Emperors of the French. The onflamme, in an- 
 cient times the sacred banner of France, was kept at this abbey; 
 and no church in the kingdom was so rich in relics and sacred 
 ornaments. All these were dispersed at the revolution of 17 89, 
 when one of the most remarkable acts of desecration took 
 place ever recorded in history. On the motion of Barrere, 
 the National Convention, on the 31st of July, 1793, decreed 
 that the tombs of the ci-dcvunt kings at the Church of St. 
 Denis, and elsewhere, should be demolished, and on the 
 l‘2th of October the work of destruction commenced. The 
 first tomb opened was that of Turenne, whose body was found 
 in such perfect preservation that it was e.xhibited for the space 
 of eight months in the sacristy. At the suggestion of Prof. Des- 
 fontaines, this tomb was afterwards removed to the Jardin des 
 Plantes, and thence to the l^hisde des Monuments Francuis (see 
 p. 365.) On the 23rd of November, 17 99, it was, by order 
 of the Consuls, removed to the Invalides, then called the 
 T(‘7)iple da Mars. The first body extracted from the vault of 
 the Bourbons was that of Henry IV. It was exhibited for two 
 days, during which casts were taken of the face (see p. 404.) 
 On the same day (the 14th of October) the remains of Louis 
 XIII. and Louis XIV., of Marie de Medicis, Anne of Austria, 
 Marie Thercse, and Louis the Dauphin, son of Louis XIV., 
 were disinterred. The body of Louis XIII. was in good pre- 
 servation ; that of Louis XIV. was of the deepest black, and 
 that of the Dauphin was in a state of liquid putrefaction. In 
 the coffins of Charles V. and his queen, Jeanne de Bourbon, 
 several articles of value were found in perfect preservation ; 
 crowns of gilt silver, a silver hand of justice, a sceptre, five 
 feet long, of the same metal, bracelets, rings, and a distalf of 
 gilt wood. The coffins of Charles VI. and Isabella of Bavaria, 
 his consort, contained nothing but dry bones. In that of 
 Henry II. two hearts were found, but no inscriptions whereby 
 to identify them. The body of Louis X., le Hutin, lay in a 
 stone cofiin lined with lead ; beside it lay a brass crown co- 
 vered with rust, and part of a sceptre. The tomb of Dagobert 
 was ojiened by toi'chlight. The bodies of this king and his 
 queen Nanthilde lay together, enveloped in silk, in a wooden 
 box lined with lead, and divided into two parts, with the in- 
 
538 
 
 ENVIUONS OF PAUIS. 
 
 sci'iptioiis — “Hie jacct corpus Dagoberii “ Hie jacet 
 corpus Nanthildis.” Tlic king s head was severed from the 
 body ; the head of the queen was missing. All the Lodies 
 were conveyed to the Cimetiere de Valois, opposite the northern 
 porch, and thrown into two trenches dug for the purpose, and 
 the lead of the coffins was used up for bullets. It was also 
 seriously proposed to demolish the whole abbey, and this idea 
 was very near being adopted. The lead, however, was torn 
 from the roof for bullets, and the structure left exposed to all 
 the inclemency of the weather until 1797, when it was again 
 proposed to pull it down and form a market-place on its site. 
 It was saved at the intercession of M. Petit-Radel, architect of 
 the public edifices, but it is only since the Consulate that the 
 work of restoration has been in progress with little interrup- 
 tion. Many of the monuments had fortunately been saved by 
 being sent to the Musee cles Monuments Hrangais. 
 
 Exterior. — The facade of this church, although at present 
 mutilated by the demolition of one of its towers, effected se- 
 veral years ago on account of its unsound state, is extremely 
 imposing. The southern tower, which still remains, is square, 
 and flanked at its corners with four turrets, crowned witli a 
 Gothic balustrade running all round its steep quadrangular 
 roof. The tower has two rows of Saxon windows, the upper 
 consisting of three, the lower of two. Its total height is 190 
 feet (1). A crocketed gable and rose window are seen be- 
 hind the battlements which crown the main body of the 
 church, which is divided into three compartments by four 
 turreted buttresses. The upper frieze of the northern com- 
 partment is decorated with the figures of four kings of France, 
 viz., Clodoveus, Dagobert, Pepin, and Charlemagne. Below 
 this there are two obtusely-pointed windows resting on a 
 second frieze enriched with sculpture, in nine compartments ; 
 three windows more, one only of which is open, follow just 
 above the northern entrance, formed by a series of retiring 
 jiointcd arches resting on slender clustered pillars. Curious 
 devices in haut-relief, representing the lahours peculiar to 
 each month, adorn the jambs of this entrance. The bas-relief 
 in the tympan is a rude illustration of the surrender of Calais 
 to the English in 1347, under Edward 111. In the upper frieze 
 of the southern division of the front, the series of kings is con- 
 tinued with Hugh Capet, Robert, Louis le Gros, and l.ouis VII. ; 
 the remaining design is symmetrical with that already de- 
 scribed. The dev ices on the janihs of the southern portal rc- 
 
 (I) It may be ascended fora small fee. l’’rom the top a splendid 
 panorama, measuring upwards of 2oo kilomelre.s in circuit, will 
 be enjoyed. 
 
ST. DEMS. 
 
 639 
 
 present the signs of the zodiac, and the bas-relief of the tympan 
 represents the Martyrdom of St. Denis. The central division 
 of the facade is pierced with a large rose window which now 
 forms the dial plate of a clock. Below this there is a row 
 of three windows, the central one only being open, the tym- 
 pans of the others being filled with Latin inscriptions. That 
 to the right, in Gothic characters, runs thus ; — 
 
 Ad docin EcclesiiT! qua) fovU ct cxtiilil illiuii, 
 
 Suggerus studuil ad docus Ecrlcsi.T. 
 
 Deque tuo libi iiarlicii>ans Jlartyr Dionysi 
 Ora lit exores fore participeni paradisi. 
 
 Annus millenus centemis quadragenus 
 Annus erat Verbi quando sacrala fuit. (t) 
 
 The opposite one, in modern characters, is as follows ; — 
 
 Aidein ulii dena cinis Kcgum per saicula quicrat, 
 
 Teinpeslate furcns diruit una dies. 
 
 Sod duin Napolco rcparat res ordine cunctas, 
 
 Reddit tcnipla Deo, Regilms ct tuniulo. 
 
 Hursus pcndct opus, uain concidit ipse ruina. 
 
 At qui pcrfiecrct coepla, Pliilippus erat. (2) 
 
 The central portal below bas four retiring arches, with 
 figures of saints in haut-relief, and resting on sculptured clus- 
 tered columns. In the tympan above wo see the Last .Tudg- 
 ment, Christ about to judge, and the Virgin interceding for 
 sinners. The Saviour is represented in the act of pronouncing 
 the words — “ Venite Benedict i Patris met,’’ and “ Discedite 
 a me Maledicti.” The gales arcadorned with tracery and medal- 
 lions in cast iron, containing the following has-rcliefs. Left side ; 
 1st, the Kiss of Judas; 2, Christ before Pilate; 3, Christ bear- 
 ing his cross; 4, the Crucifixion. Right side; 5, the Entomb- 
 ment; 0, the Resurrection; 7, Christ and the two disciples at 
 Ihnmaus; 8, the Ascension. 
 
 Interior. — This magnificent and costly edifice is cruci- 
 form, and consists of a nave and two aisles, with lateral 
 chapels. Its total length is 3,66 feet, breadth 121 feet, and height 
 of vaulting 86 feet. Both the nave and choir, witli the tran- 
 septs, have a light triforium and clerestory windows ; 
 the groinings spring from clustered capitals. In the aisle to 
 the right on entering we find, after the door leading to the 
 tower, the Chceur d Hiver, consisting of five chapels thrown 
 into one, thus forming a kind of church by itself, lit by 
 
 (1) “ 111 lioiiour of (be Cliurcli \ilikh fnslorcd <tiu 1 raised biui, Suger laboured 
 lo decorate (Uiis) rliurcb. And Ihou, O Martyr St. Denis, who en.ioyest Para- 
 dise, pray that lie may enjoy it \iilli (bee. hie thousand one liundred and 
 fortieth year \i as the year of the Word in wliirli it was consecrated.” 
 
 (2) “ A single tcinpcstuons day destroyed lliis eluirch, where (be aslies of 
 K ings bad reposed for ten eenturies. Rut Napideon, while re-establishing 
 order in every brunch of the Stale, restored this church to (iod, lo the Kings, 
 and the grave. The worts was again suspended, for be himself fell , but it 
 was Philip wlio completed what had been commenced.” 
 
ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 540 
 
 five windows decorated with stained glass. The columns 
 and walls are painted in the liveliest colours. Statues 
 of the 1 2 apostles rest upon brackets against the columns. A 
 railing separates the oaken seats from the rest of the chapel. 
 Over the high altar is the martyrdom of St. Denis, painted by 
 Krayer, a pupil of Rubens. The panel of the altar is adorned 
 with painted and gilt haut-reliefs in compartments, represent- 
 ing scenes from the life of Jesus Christ. In the embrasure of 
 the second window is an altar in white marble with a statue 
 of the Virgin and Child. The robes of the statue and the panels 
 of the altar are interspersed with agates, cornelians, and other 
 precious stones. The bas-relief on the lower panel represents 
 the Purification, the Adoration of the Magi, the Massacre of the 
 Innocents, and the Flight into Egypt ; it is as usual painted in the 
 Byzantine manner. Some old engravings of saints and abbots 
 on stone are encased in the walls and between the win- 
 dows (1.) There is one especially of colossal size on the wall 
 opposite the high altar, to the memory of the Abbot Antoine 
 De la Haye, who died in 1550. In the present state of the 
 abbey, which is now undergoing extensive and radical re- 
 ])airs, it is impossible to give a correct description of the 
 whole ; we may mention, however, in the other aisle, five 
 chapels painted by Lccomte in the Byzantine style. The 
 ogives of the first contain ; God, Christ, the Virgin, Moses 
 receiving the law. In the walls are several old bas-reliefs. 
 The altar-piece illustrates the history of Christ, carved in oak 
 in nine compartments, and appears to he of the fifteenth cen- 
 tury. The stained glass in the window represents the scenes 
 of the Passion. In the second chapel paintings of Christ and 
 Ste. Anne with the 4 evangelists occupy the ogives, and old 
 bas-reliefs are encased in the walls. In the .3d, is tlie statue 
 of St. Jerome over the altar, which is of white marble, 
 and sculptured with 3 compartments in the upper panel, 
 and one in the lower, in the style of the 14lh century. In the 
 window is the history of St. Barbara in stained glass, dating 
 from 1541, in 10 compartments. In the 4 Ih, the window is 
 enriched with stained glass, representing the 4 Evangelists. 
 The altar, which is of marble, has a Crucifixion in alto-relievo. 
 The altar of the 5th chapel is remarkable for its gorgeous de- 
 corations and gilt and painted haut-reliefs. On the upper panel 
 are 1 1 medallions with delicate miniature paintings of sacred 
 subjects. In the ogive opposite is the Crucifixion of Christ painted 
 in fresco, and below on an old stone slab encased in the wall is 
 
 (0 In 1854, the King of Bavaria presented the Clmpter of St. 
 Denis with Ihe cast of their patron saint, fallen from a slatue oG 
 the 10th century in the Cfeirrch of St. Eimneran at Katisbon. 
 
ST. DENIS. 
 
 541 
 
 engraved the plan of the abbey. This chapel is now unfor- 
 tunately closed to the public ; to see the choir, the visitor must 
 apply to the porter in the right aisle, for a guide. He will 
 remark the magniticent circular windows that adorn the tran- 
 sept and then see, in the northern transept, the two magnifi- 
 cent monuments of Louis XII. and Anne of Brittany, and 
 Henry II. and Catherine de Medicis. The former was executed 
 in white marble by Paolo Poncio. The effigies of Louis XII. 
 and his queen are represented on a rectangular cenotaph sur- 
 rounded by 12 arches supported by beautiful composite pilas- 
 ters adorned with arabesques, beneath which are placed statues 
 of the 12 apostles. The whole rests upon a pedestal enriched 
 with bas-reliefs representing the wars of the French in Italy, the 
 triumphant entry of Louis XH. into Genoa, the battle of Ra- 
 venna, and the battle of Agnadel. Above the cornice are 
 kneeling statues in white marble of Louis and Anne. In the 
 wall opposite to this is an ancient alto-relievo, representing the 
 death of the Virgin, with the Apostles. The monument of 
 Henry II. was executed by Germain Pilon, after designs by 
 Primaticcio. It is 14 feet in height by 10 in breadth, and 12 
 and a half in length. It is adorned with twelve composite co- 
 lumns of deep blue marble, and 12 pilasters of white marble. 
 At the angles are four bronze figures representing the cardinal 
 virtues. Henry H. and Catherine, in white marble, repose on 
 a couch. The likeness of the latter is considered to he remark- 
 ably true. Opposite, in the southern transept, is the sump- 
 tuous tomb of Francis I. and Claude of France. This monu- 
 ment, after the designs of Philibert Delorme, was erected in 
 1550. Effigies of Francis and Claude repose upon a plinth of 
 black marble placed on a cruciform basement, ornamented 
 with bas-reliefs representing the battles of Marignan and Ceri- 
 solles; the figures were executed by Pierre Bontemps. Above 
 rises a grand arch enriched with arabesques and bas-reliefs by 
 Germain Pilon. Sixteen fluted Ionic columns support the en- 
 tablature, above which are placed five statues of white marble 
 in a kneeling posture, namely; Francis L; Claude, his queen; 
 the Dauphin and the Duke of Orleans, sons of Francis and 
 Claude; and the Princess Charlotte, their daugliter. The vault- 
 ing and subordinate ornaments of this splendid monument were 
 executed by Ambroise Perret and .TacquesChantrel. 
 
 Sacristy. — We are now conducted to the Vestry-room, 
 a long circular vaulted chamber of Doric architecture, 
 containing ten paintings illustrating events connected with 
 the abbey. They are : 1 , the Coronation of Marie de Medicis 
 at St. Denis, a copy from Rubens, by Monsiau; 2, Charles V. 
 and Francis I. visiting the abbey, by Gros; 3, Death of Louis 
 
542 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 le Gros, by Moiijaud; 4, Philippe le Harcli offering to the 
 abbey the relics of St. Louis, by Guerin; 5, St. Louis 
 receiving the oriflamme, by Barbier ; c, St. Louis re- 
 storing the tombs, i)y Laiidou; 7, Charlemagne at the 
 consecration of the church, by Meynier; 8, Funeral of 
 Dagobert, by Gamier; 9, the Preaching of St. Denis in Gaul, 
 by Monsiau ; 1 o , the remains of the kings recovered in 1817^ 
 by Heim. The doors of this sacristy are adorned with beau- 
 tiful carvings of the time of Francis I. For an additional fee 
 the visitor will be shown the “ Tresor,” containing the 
 regalia of the early French monarclis, consisting of gold 
 crowns set in precious stones, an imitation of Charlemagne’s 
 crown, the original of which is at Aix-la-Chapelle, etc., 
 besides chalices and other church utensils. 
 
 The rest of the church cannot now be visited, inconsequence 
 of the works in progress. The whole floor of the transepts, 
 which had been raised during the first Empire, has been now 
 reduced to its former level, viz., that of the square outside ; so 
 that the steps in front of the church will be suppressed. The 
 choir extends to the fourth ogive of tiie nave. All the monu 
 merits now in the undercroft are arranged in the chapels, and 
 only those coffins of the Bourbon dynasty which really con- 
 tain their mortal remains are left below, viz., those of Louis 
 XVl. and Marie Antoinette ; of the Due de Berri and his two 
 children ; of the Prince de Conde, the Due de Boui-bon, Madame 
 Victoire Elisabeth de France, daughter of Louis XV. ; Louis 
 VII. , Louise de Lorraine, and Louis XVIII. Beyond the tran- 
 septs the floor will remain at its present level, much higher than 
 that of the church. As the whole is as much as possilile to be 
 replaced in its original condition, the marble which had been 
 introduced at a later period has been removed, and replaced 
 by the kind of stone of which the edifice is built. Under a 
 Gothic canopy, already erected to the right at the entrance of 
 the choir, we see the tomb of Dagobert and his queen Nan- 
 thilde, restored to its former state. This curious monument, 
 which dates from the 12th century, had been barbarously 
 sawn in two in 1816, so as to separate the back, the sculptures 
 of which relate to the queen, while those of the front allude to 
 a curious legend in reference to the king. Montfaucon relates 
 that one Ansoald, returning from his embassy to Sicily, landed 
 at a small island where there was an aged hermit named John, 
 with whom he entered into conversation, and was told by 
 him that having prayed to God for Dagobert’s soul, he saw on 
 the sea some devils, who kept the king hound in a skiff, and 
 beat him with Vulcan’s hammers (!) ; that Dagobert called to 
 his aid Saints Denis, Martin, and Maurice, who delivered him 
 
ST. DENIS. 
 
 543 
 
 and conveyed his soul to Abraham’s bosom. This legend is 
 exemplified in the bas-reliefs of the tomb above alluded to. 
 The lowest bas-relief represents the corpse of King Dagobert ; 
 in the next is Dagobert in a boat, tormented by devils ; and, 
 in another part adjoining, St, Denis exhorting the king on his 
 death-bed. In the third compartment two angels, together 
 with St. Denis and St. Martin, are walking upon the waves to 
 the boat to rescue Dagobert, whose soul is held in the upper- 
 most compartment in a sheet, by Saints Denis, Martin, and 
 Maurice. The two former are repeated above, kneeling before 
 Abraham, and beseeching him to receive the soul into his 
 bosom. Opposite this monument will stand one to the me 
 mory of the first Napoleon, as the restorer of the church. 
 
 Little more remains to be said of this ancient abbey. Be- 
 sides the remains of the princes above stated, the hearts of 
 Louis XIII. and Louis XIV, are still preserved here in silver 
 caskets. Vaults are being constructed for the reception of 
 the bodies of the Emperors of the French. Tlie church is 
 colso remarkable in other respects. The stained glass of 
 the clerestory windows forms an illustrated, historical, and 
 chronological series of the principal events connected 
 both with the rulers of France, 5C in number, and 7 2 popes 
 and abbots, in reference to the church, from St. Denis to Na- 
 poleon. A profusion of enamel paintings will be seen besides 
 in every part of the church. (1) It also possesses a magnificent 
 organ by Messrs. Gavaille, Coll, and Co. (2) The person tlial 
 conducts the visitors expects a fee. Adjoining the church the 
 A'isitor will perceive the Matson [mperiale d' Education de la 
 Ligion d’Honneur, occupying the magnificent buildings of the 
 monastery (see p. 102). 
 
 Toivn . — It contains a small theatre, several manufactories, 
 an abattoir and the parish church, a tolerable specimen of ar- 
 chitecture. Three considerable fairs are held here annually. 
 
 ST. GERMAIN EN LAVE — is a town of 12,000 inhabitants, 
 5 leagues west of the capital, or an hour’s ride by rail from 
 the terminus in the rue St. I azare. Louis le Jcune resided 
 here in 1143 in a small chateau, which Francis I. afterwards 
 replaced by a palace, Henry II., Charles IX. and Louis XIV. 
 were horn, and Louis XIII. died, here ; Henry IV. began the 
 terrace, which was completed by Louis XIV., who fixed his 
 residence at St. Germain after the death of his mother. He 
 afterwards presented the palace to Madame de Montespan. 
 
 (1) The, Imperial chapter of St. Denis consists of 6 canons of 
 the first class, all bishops ; 8 of the second, and 36 honorary ones. 
 
 ( 2 ) For much interesting information concerning the abbey 
 church of St. Denis, see IIistouy of Paris, 3 vols. 8yo, 
 
544 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 It was subsequently occupied by James II., of England, who 
 kept his court there for twelve years, until liis death in 
 1701. Under Louis XV. and Louis XVI. the palace was . 
 abandoned ; in 17 89 it was converted into barracks, then by ' 
 Napoleon into a school for cavalry officers, and lastly into a : 
 military prison, now suppressed. It is now undergoing A 
 a thorough repair : the Gallo-Roman museum it contains | 
 (public on Tuesday, Thursdays and Sundays, 12 te 5) is I 
 provisionally arranged in the Salle des Gardes and Galerie | 
 des F4tes or de Francois I. It is a pentagonal pile, with a i 
 tower at each angle, and surrounded by a fosse and wall. 
 The court has two rows of buttresses and arcades all round. 
 
 Church. — On the Place dn Chateau, fronting the Palace, is 
 the church of St. Germain, approached by a fine Doric portico 
 consisting of four columns in front, surmounted hy a sculp- 
 tured pediment. The interior is slightly cruciform, of the Ionic 
 order, and has a nave and two aisles. In the first lateral chapel 
 to the right there is a handsome Doric tomb of white marble, 
 erected to the memory of James II. by Geo. IV. of England ( 1 ). 
 The whole church has been painted in the Byzantine style hy 
 Amaury Duval. Above the chapel already mentioned, we see 
 a medallion with St. George killing the Dragon. The semi- 
 cupolas of the other chapels are painted with biblical subjects, 
 such as the Feast of Cana, the Sermon on the Mount, the 
 Baptism of Christ, etc. The ceiling of the choir represents the 
 Adoration of Christ. The frieze of the nave is painted with 
 
 (i) It bears the following inscriptions : on the cornice, Regio ci- 
 neri pietas Regia (to royal ashes royal piety) ; between the columns, 
 
 Ferale (juisquishoc inonuiiieiituni suspicis, renini Iiunianarum vices me- 
 (litare. Magnus in prosperis, in advcrsis major, lacolms II., Anglorum rex, 
 insignes ajrunmas dolendaqne nimium fala, pio pladdoqne ol)itu exsolvit 
 in liac urbe, die XV| a Septeinbris 1701 ; et nobiliores qnajdeni corporis cjus 
 paries hie recondiia; asservantnr. 
 
 (0 thou, who beholdest tliis funereal monument, meditate over the insta- 
 bility of human tilings. Great in prosperity, greater stilt in adversity, 
 James II., King of England, bid adieu to unutterable sorrows and to most 
 painful reverses, by a pious and placid death, in this town, on the lOtli 
 of September, 1701] and some of the noiilcr parts of his body arc here en- 
 tombed.) 
 
 On the basement • 
 
 Qui prius angusta gestabat frontc coronam, 
 
 Exigua nunc pulvereus requescit in urna. 
 
 Quid solium, quid etalta juvanl? tcrit omnia lethum. 
 
 Vei’um laus fidei ac morum hand peritura manebil. 
 
 Tu quoque, sum me Dens, regem quern regius hospes, 
 
 Infaustum cxccpit, tecum regnare jubebis. 
 
 (He whose august head once bore a crown, is now mere dust, reposing in a 
 small urn. What is the throne? What is power? Death levels all. Rut 
 tlie repute of faith and virtue will remain imperishable. Mayest thou also, 
 great God, admit him, to whom a royal host afforded a refuge in misfortune, 
 to reign with thee.) 
 
; ST. GERMAIN EN LAYE. 545 
 
 lubjecls expressive of Mercy, Charity, Redemption, the Word, 
 |tc. In the semi-cupola of the Chapel of the Virgin the sub- 
 ect is the Conception. There is also a good Crucifixion 
 ►y Ansiaux. 
 
 The Theatre of St. Germain stands somewhat to the left of 
 |he Church, on the Place du Theatre; it was lilted up by M. 
 Alexandre Dumas, the novelist. On the opposite side, between 
 the Palace and the railway terminus, we find the entrance to 
 the far famed 
 
 Terrace — commanding one of the most splendid views in 
 Europe. It is 2,4 00 metres in length by 30 in breadth, and 
 [s accessible on the river side by several flights of steps. It 
 IS skirted on the opposite side by the Parterre, a delightful 
 public walk, with avenues of secular chestnut-trees, and 
 grounds laid out in flower-beds intersected with gravel-walks 
 and clusters of ornamental slirubs and trees. Under the chest- 
 nut-trees there is a pavilion where music is performed by 
 military bands on Thursdays and Sundays. Not far from 
 this, we perceive two fine groups of Peace and Abundance 
 on pedestals. Behind the terrace, the ’ 
 
 Forest of St. Germain extends over a surface of 8000 acres, 
 die wall of which measures about 30 miles in circuit. Here' 
 not far from tiie extremity of the terrace, we find the Chateau 
 Duval, a beautiful little villa belonging to M. A. Fould. Two 
 mnual fairs are held in this forest, one called F^te de St. 
 Louis, the other Fete des Loges. The first takes place at the 
 jntrance, near the gate of Poissy, on the Sunday after the 
 2;>th of August, and lasts three days. The second, which 
 ilso lasts three days, begins on the first Sunday after the 
 loth of August, and is held near the Chateau des Loges, 
 
 X house dependent upon theMaison Imperiale de St. Denis. (1) 
 rhis fair, from its being held in the very midst of the foi'est, 
 las a pleasing and very picturesque appearance, particularly 
 it night, and is the most agreeable of any of the fetes in the 
 leighbourhood of Paris. 
 
 About a league from St. Germain, at Chambourcy, an es- 
 ate belonging to the Due do Grammont, there is a mausoleum 
 jontaining the remains of the Countess of Blessington and the 
 ionite d’Orsay. The view from this spot is very fine. 
 
 The elevated position of St. Germain I’enders it salubrious, 
 
 (I) It is situaled at the end of an avenue to the right of the 
 Railway lerminus, and was formerly a convent of Augustin friars, 
 ounded by Anne ot Austria. Thei‘e still exists a small pavilion at 
 he end of the garden, where that queen occasionally passed a 
 ew hours in solitude. Madame Dubarry was exiled there during 
 he last illness of Louis XV. 
 
 35 
 
54 6 EiWlUOXS OF PARIS. 
 
 and il is a favourite resort of the Parisians. In winter, how- i 
 ever, the air is keen. Since the suppression of the almos- ^ 
 pheric railway, which has been found too costly, and liable j 
 to frequeiil repairs, the old station of Pccq, a village on llie i 
 banks of the Seine below St. Germain, has been restored. i 
 The station before that, counting from Paris, is that of Vdainet, 
 wliere the visitor may alight to visit the pretty 
 
 Parc dll Viisiatt — where a village of charming villas has j 
 sprung up into existence through the instrumentality of a pri-|i 
 vate company, which has done everything to render tlnb 
 grounds attractive. Three artificial lakes, connected l)j| 
 streamlets spanned by rustic bridges, enliven the prospect,^ 
 while periodical concerts arc given on the Pdousc dcs Cas- 
 cades, where picturesque cascades issue from an artificial ruin 
 This park, which is equally accessible by the stations of Cha 
 tou, Le Pecq, and Vesinet, is well worthy of a visit. ' 
 
 A few minutes’ walk from the last-named station will brins 
 the visitor to a wide avenue, leading to the 
 
 Aside da Vcsiiiet, an establishment for the reception of sicl 
 workwomen. It stands in the centre of a large piece of groum 
 given by the Emperor, and laid out as a garden. The building 
 enclose three courts, the middle one open in front with a hasii 
 and jet of water in the centre, the other two being skirte( 
 on three sides with buildings, and on the fourth with a co 
 vered gallery for exercise in bad weather. The buildings en 
 closing the two lateral courts are connected at the further cm 
 of the central court, or coar d'hoanear, by the principal edi 
 flee, consisting of a ground floor and first story. The prin 
 cipal entrance, situated in a central pavilion, gives access 
 first, to covered galleries right and left, and then to a vestibul 
 in front, which leads to two refectories right and left, receiv 
 ing light from eight windows each, and, with the vestibule 
 occupying the whole ground floor. The second story contain 
 the chapel, situated in the centre, and flanked by two pro 
 mmoirs, or large rooms for exercise in winter ; these occupy 
 with the chapel, the whole extent of the principal buildinji 
 and have an open balcony in front. The chapel, in the By 
 zantine style, is separated from the prommoirs by large oake 
 folding doors ; the altar is of carved oak. The lateral build 
 ings contain rooms with four or five beds each ; many of th 
 rooms are also provided with cradles. These and the bed 
 steads are of iron ; all the rest of the furniture is of oa 
 throughout. There are besides toilet rooms, with rows ( 
 Jiasins along the wall, bathing rooms, and every other im^ 
 ginable comfort. The sick wards are still more comfortabl 
 furnished, and heated and ventilated according to Dr. Va 
 
SCEAUX, ' 547 
 
 flecke’s system. Tlie number of beds for adults is 300. The 
 inmates are all convalescents sent hither from other hospitals, 
 and are kept here three weeks, except- in cases of relapse. 
 Up to Jan. 1 st, 1 8 C5, the number of patients received amounted 
 to 4,500. Those that work are remunerated. The esta- 
 blishment covers 100 acres, and has cost 2 , 500,000 fr. ; it is 
 under the control of the Minister of the Interior. Physician, 
 Dr. Guionnis. Architect, M. Laval. Visible from 12 to 4 
 on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. 
 
 ST. LEU TAVERNEY — on the Northern Railroad, celebrated 
 for its chateau and park, which before the revolution of 17 89 
 ibelonged to the Due d’Orkbans, and was the favourite residence 
 of Mme. de Genlis. Napoleon I. gave it to Queen Ilortense, 
 and after the Restoration it became the property of the Due de 
 ^Bourbon, who ended his days here in a mysterious manner 
 (see p. 325 n.) The present Emperor has caused the church to 
 be embellished, and erected a monument in it to Queen Ilor- 
 Icnse, to whose memory, as well as that of Louis Napoleon, 
 late King of Holland, an annual service is performed. 
 
 ST. OUEN — a league and a half north of Paris, on the left 
 of the road to St. Denis, is known for its chateau, where Louis 
 XVIH. stopped on his return to Paris in 1814, and where he 
 promised a charter to the nation. The chateau, built in IGfiO, 
 was bought by Louis XVIII., who, after embellishing and 
 furnishing it, pi-esented it to Madame du Cayla. This spot 
 possesses a number of subterranean storehouses for corn, where 
 it is kept undamaged for several years ; also an ice-house, 
 supplying Paris with about 6 , 000,000 kilos, a-ycar, and an 
 Iron bridge of novel and graceful design, built in 1857 . (1) 
 
 SCEAUX — is a large village, 2 leagues south of Paris, 
 with 1800 inhabitants. Colbert erected here a magnificent 
 chateau, with a park laid out by Le Notre. In 1700 this 
 estate was purchased by the Duke du Maine, son of Louis XIV. 
 and Madame de Montespan, after whose death it passed to the 
 Duke de Penthievre. At the revolution of 17 89 the chateau 
 and park were sold, and the former demolished, but the majmr 
 of Sceaux and some other persons bought the menagerie, which 
 they converted into a place of amusement. Every Sunday, 
 from the 1st of May to the 1st of Noveinbei’, there is a hal 
 <^hamp4tre given in it, wliich is much frequented by the Pa- 
 risians. The church of St. John the Baptist is an old l)ultressed 
 and pinnacled building, without preten ions to architectural 
 ^eauty ; it contains however some tolerable paintings, a line 
 |ias-rclicf in white marble on the panel of the altar in the left 
 
 (i) Ice-houses at Gentilly and LaViltelte also supply Paris, 
 iaeh furnishing about 3,000,000 kilos. 
 
EiNVlRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 548 
 
 aisle, ami a white marble group of the Baptism of Christ on 
 the high altar, by Tuby. On a grass plot adjoining the church, 
 the place where Florian, the elegant writer, lies buried, is 
 marked by a granite pillar bearing his bust. The Mairie is 
 an elegant little building opposite to the church, and between 
 the Menagerie and the railway-station, which, with the rail- 
 way, is now the most interesting object of the place. This 
 railway was expressly constructed to try M. Arnoux’s system 
 of locomotives and carriages ; the former, having small oblique 
 wheels pressing against the rails, besides the usual vertical 
 ones, effectually provide against the train’s running off the rails. 
 The carriages are hinged together, and so constructed, that 
 both the fore and hind wheels may turn freely under them. 
 The railway is constructed with a gauge of 6 feet (Mr. Brunel’si: 
 gauge being 7, and the narrowest admitted hitherto 3 / 2 ), andp 
 the sharpest curves have been purposely introduced to givep 
 the system a fair trial. The train describes at each terminus}| 
 a curve of 82 feet radius; the smallest radius on the line is 981; 
 feet, and the largest 279 feet, results hitherto deemed im-l 
 possible. The total length of the railway is 6 miles and a half,| 
 which are performed in 25 minutes, and might be in 10. 
 The weekly cattle-market, called Marche de Sceaux, is held 
 on the road at Bourg la Heine. 
 
 SEVBES — two leagues west of Paris, is situated on the high 
 roa3~Ieacirng to Versailles, and is one of the most ancient vil- 
 lages in the environs of the metropolis, being known to have 
 existed in 500. It is celebrated for its magnificent Imperial 
 manufactory of porcelain, which is now being rebuilt in the 
 Park of St. Cloud. It was formed in the Chateau de Vin- 
 cennes, in 1738, but in 1750, the farmers-general purchased 
 the manufactory and transferred it to Sevres. Louis XV., al 
 I the solicitation of Madame de Pompadour, bought it of them ir 
 1 17 59, and since then it has formed part of the domains of tin 
 State. This establishment consists of three distinct parts ; the 
 show rooms or magasins, the museum, and the laboratories 01 
 ateliers. On the stairs leading to the former we perceiv( 
 various cartoons of subjects executed here in stained glass 
 AVe next enter G rooms, containing admirable specimens of th( 
 perfection to which the art of working porcelain has beei 
 carried here. The visitor will perceive, besides table am 
 ( tea-services, of from 5,000 to 15,000 fr. value, splendh 
 i trophies, vases, tables, cabinets, of all sizes, execute! 
 
 ; with the most scrupulous nicety, and of the most tasteful de 
 i signs. But what will most particularly call liis attention i 
 j the profusion of paintings upon porcelain, copied from tlr 
 / best masters with a nicety of execution and truth of colon 
 
SEVKES. 549 
 
 rarely attained on canvas. Here he will see, in sizes ranging 
 between VA and 3 feet in breadth, copies of the celebrated 
 frescos by Raphael and Michel Angelo in the Vatican, such as 
 the School of Athens, the Deliverance of St. Peter, 5cc. ; 
 portraits by Titian and Guido; landscapes by Poussin, &c. 
 The prices of these range between 25,000 fr. and 40,000 fr. 
 MM. Schild, Langlois, and Joseph Richard, are .nniong the 
 most esteemed of the artists in this branch, MM. Roussel. 
 Bulot, Cabot, and Palandrc, are the best for flowers. — The spe- 
 cimens of stained glass are very beautiful. The Museum is on 
 the second floor, and consists of 12 rooms aad a long gnller}^ 
 containing a complete collection of foreiga china, and the 
 materials used in its fabrication; a collection of the china, 
 earthenware, and pottery of France, and the earths of which 
 they are composed ; Avith a collection of models of all the orna- 
 mental A'ases, services, figures, statues, &c., that have been 
 made in the manufactory since its first establishment. Louis 
 XVI. enriched this museum A\dth a fine collection of Greek 
 vases. The models and specimens, Avhich comprehend every 
 kind of earthenware, from the coarsest pottery to the finest 
 porcelain, forming a complete illustration of the history of the art, 
 are arranged on shelves in the following order ; — 1. Etruscan 
 vases, antique pottery, Grecian, Roman, and Gallic. 2. Foreign 
 earthenware, delf-ware, and stone-ware, Avith some delf-Avare of 
 the 15th century, the first that w^as glazed, being the original 
 specimens of Bernard Palissy, the inventor of common glazing. 
 3. French earthenware, delf-Avare, and stone-ware, dating from 
 1740. 4. An interesting representation of the manufacture of 
 
 porcelain from the clay in its rude state to the finishing. 5 . 
 Porcelain of China, Japan, and India. 6. Porcelain of the dif- 
 ferent manufactories of France, arranged in chronological 
 order, AAuth a progressive table of the qualities and prices to 
 the present day. 7. Porcelain of Prussia, Brunswick, Venice, 
 Lombardy, and other parts of Italy. 8. Porcelain of Eng- 
 land, the Netherlands, Spain, Portugal, Saxony, Austria, 
 and Bavaria. 9. Specimens relating to the colouring of 
 porcelain, glass, and emdhenAvare^and of the defects to 
 Avhich it is liable. Among tlie objects Avhich will claim more 
 particular attention, in the 4th room to the left on entering, is an 
 old mosaic of coloured earthenware, encrusted in the floor, re- 
 presenting the British arms under different dynasties ; also, in 
 ' the Gth room, a stove in fayence, in the shape of a model of 
 the fortress of the Bastille, presented to the Convention by M. 
 Ollivicr, AAdio fashioned it ; a stove in fayence of Louis XlV.'s 
 time, brought over here from Versailles ; models of Assyrian 
 atiliquities executed by Ml’. Hartley, Avho obtained a gold 
 
 CX^v.. 
 
ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 550 
 
 medal for them at the Exhibition of 1855 ; old bricks of the 
 10th century ; enamelled metal of the 1 4th century ; and in the 
 8th and last room on this side, specimens of imitations of 
 pearls and precious stones, according to methods invented by 
 the late talented M. Ebelinen. 
 
 The ateliers of the establishment are on the ground floor. 
 Visitors are first shown a room with whiiling tables, at 
 which the throwers and turners sit, gradually creating those 
 beautiful forms for which Sevres porcelain is so esteemed. The 
 finishing is given by cutting out the profile of the vc.-scl in a 
 piece of tin jilate, which is afterwards applied to it vertically 
 while the wheel turns. The clay is prepared and ground at a 
 water mill about five minutes walk from the manufactory, 
 and brought here ready for use. The process of casting is re- 
 sorted io when very thin porcelain is desired. For this pur- 
 pose the clay, blended with water, is poured into a mould ; 
 clear water is then made to rush into it from belov/ by means 
 of a pipe connected with a small reservoir of water ; the clay 
 is by this means deposited on the mould, the superfluous matter 
 is poured out, and when dry, the article easily separates from 
 the mould. The next process is putting on the handles, if any 
 be required. The article is then taken to a room where women 
 are employed in picking out any slight flaw they may dis 
 cover, after which it goes into the hands of the painter. The 
 painters’ room will contain about 20 persons ; the colours em- 
 ployed are all mineral, and are generally differcnl from what 
 they are after baking. Gold is applied in a semi-fluid state, 
 being first dissolved in aqua regia. The article, thus pre- 
 pared, is taken to the bakehouse, which is in one of the courts. 
 It is necessarily baked twice, once to harden it, and a second 
 time for glazing ; but paintings and delicate articles must be 
 baked a third time to obtain the full cfTcct. Plates, cups, 6cc. 
 are yflaced bj'^ twos, threes, fours, etc., into round earthen 
 pans with lids, called caseites, but so that they may not he 
 in contact with one another. These caseites are then placed 
 in the first furnace, which is heated either xvith wood or coal ; 
 the fire is underneath, separated from ihe casetfeshj a vaulteel 
 ceiling, through the apertures of which the hot air peneitrates 
 int(» the compartment above. The second furnaces are smaller, 
 with doors of earthenware, which are regularly built in at each 
 baking, a jirojecting tube being alone left so as to be easily 
 opened to watch the operation. To see whether the gl azing 
 proceeds in a satisfactory manner, bits of porcelain are placed 
 within, so as to be readied at times by an iron hook,, and 
 drawn m t through the tube, when the state in which they are 
 shows the progress that has been made. The glazing substance 
 
SUllESNE. 
 
 fs obtained fi;oin fej dspa th, nicely ground. Paintings are placed 
 fvertically in furnaces made foftbe purpose. The furnaces oc- 
 [cupy several rooms in different wings of the building. The por- 
 celain originally manufactured at Shu-es, called porcelmne 
 iendre, was a composition of glass and earths, susceptible of com- 
 bining ]>y fusion. It was abandoned on account of its effects 
 bn the health of the workmen, but successful attempts have 
 fjecn made to revive the art. That generally manufactured, 
 palled porcelaine dure, is formed of kaolin, from Limoges, alkali, j 
 ka^, and^i^pclre, to which, when in a state of fusion, " clay j 
 [s^ded. iTrccpiires great heat to be hardened, and wood alone ' 
 is used. The biscuit de Sevres is this substance not enamelled. 
 The workmanship of the manufactory of Shu-es is much more \ 
 highly finished than that of any other manufactory in France, 
 notwithstanding the same substance is used; and the white \ 
 porcelain is higher in price than that of any other manufactory, 
 on account of the exquisite and difficult shapes of the articles. 
 The painters are of the first merit, and the number of work- 
 men eSF^s 180. There Is a library attached to the esta- 
 blishment, containing numerous valuable works with plates, 
 Irclating to travels, descriptions, etc., for the use of the artists 
 attached to the establishment, but it is not public. The Sevres 
 manufactory, far from covering its expenses, is maintained by 
 the government. It is devoted in part to experiments in the 
 art, for the benefit of private manufacturers, to whom every in- 
 foi'mation is liberally granted . Sh res was represen ted in 1802 
 at the great London' International Exhibition. Show-rooms 
 open daily, Sundays and holidays excepted, from 10 to 4, 
 without a ticket, but visitors must accept the services of a 
 guide, who expects a fee. On Thursdays the Museum is 
 j)ublic, on other days a ticket is required from M. I’Adminis- 
 •radeur de la Manufacture de Sevres. To visit the ateliers , 
 a permission is rarel y gra nted. The buildings of this manu- 
 Eactnry <are m suciTa^apidated state th.at a new and hand- 
 some edifice is now being built for it near the entrance to the 
 f’ark of St. Cloud. A stone bridge of nine arches connects 
 levies with Billancourt, the Seine being here divided into two 
 jranches by the almost uninhabited lie Seguin. 
 
 SURESN'E— a village at the foot of Mont Valerien, a league 
 ivest of Paris. It is remarkable for the interesting custom of 
 Jie crowning of the llosiere, a very pretty sight, which takes 
 dace on the Sunday after St. Louis’s day (August 25). There 
 ire several elegant villas at this place, one of the most remark- 
 liile being that of Baron S. de Rothschild. (1) A suspen- 
 
 (i) This beautiful seat and ils extensive liot-bouses were set 
 Ire to and greatly devastated by the mob, in February, is48. 
 
552 
 
 Ei\VIROi\S OF FAliiS. 
 
 sion bridge has been thrown across the river to meet the road ■ 
 leading by the Porte de Longchamps to the Bois dt Eoidoene 
 
 VAUGIRARD— (See p. 447.) ^ ; 
 
 VERSAILLES. — This large handsome town, of vhich we ! 
 subjoin a partial plan, whicii the visitor will find of tie utmost i 
 utility, is situated four leagues S.W. of Paris; it is the seat of i 
 the prefecture of the Seine and Oise, the see cf a lishop, and 
 possesses three tribunals, of Criminal Justice, Pmmere In- 
 stance, and Commerce, besides an imperial college. Before ^ 
 1789 its population was computed at 100,000, but at present : 
 it does not contain 30,000 inhabitants. 
 
 History . — In 1561 Versailles was a small village ia the midst 
 of woods, used as a hunting station by Henry IV. and Louis 
 XIII., who, in 1624, built a hunting-lodgo there. A few years 
 lafcr he purchased some land where the palace now stands, 
 with the old cast el of F. de Gondy, archbishop of Paris, and 
 erected a small chateau, of red brick, consisting of a central 
 pile, with two wings and four pavilions ; enclosed by a fosse, 
 and occupying scarcely more space than the inner apartments 
 Avlnch surround the Cour do Marbre. It was not until ■ 
 1660, that Louis XIV., becoming tired of St. Germain, con- ^ 
 ceived the idea of converting his predecessor’s chateau into a I 
 magnificent royal residence. The works were commenced in R 
 1664, under the direction of the architect Levau. Le Notre 
 laid out the gardens and parks, and 30,000 soldiers were more 
 than once simultaneously employed on the works. Water had 
 to be brought from a great distance to supply the reservoirs 
 and fountains ; and the project w^as formed and actually com- 
 menced, of turningthe river Eure through Versailles (see p‘. 5 1 9). 
 Beyond the gardens a second inclosure w as formed, called the 
 Little Park, four leagues in circuit ; and beyond this still was 
 the third inclosure, the Great Park, of 20 leagues, and including 
 numerous villages. The expense of all these stupendous un- 
 dertakings amounted to 40 millions sterling. Building w as en- 
 couraged, and a large population and an elegant city gradually 
 rose round the royal residence. After Levan’s deatli, in 1 07 0, 
 Jules II. Mansard, nephew of the celebrated Mansard, continued 
 the works, and, in oixler not to destroy what remained of the 
 chateau of Louis XIII. , built the magnificent buildings forming 
 the garden front. The king, although he often visited Ver- 
 sailles, lesided at St. Germain till l 68-t, when thewdiole court 
 lemoved to the new palace. Most of the dependencies were 
 erected about this time ; the chapel, however, was not begun till 
 1699,norfinished till J7 lo. Under Louis XV., the tbeaftre, at 
 the extremity of the northern wing, was begun by Gabriel, 
 finished by Leroy, and inaugurated on the marriage of the Dap- 
 
■ pjW.A. CTi Oil’ -'SamSiilQIililES < yUS'iV 1FIMOJ5U -J-lhllE ). 
 

VERSAILLES. 
 
 553 
 
 phin, Louis XVI., in 1770. Subsequently Gabriel added a wing 
 and pavilion to the northern side of the principal court. 
 From the time of Louis XIV. to that of the revolution of 1789, 
 with the exception of the Regency of the Duke of Orleans dur- 
 ing the minority of Louis XV., 17 15-1722, the court, the royal 
 family, the ministers, and the various public officers, were lo- 
 cated at Versailles. But after 1792 the palace was devastated, 
 and every thing moveable disjiosed of as national property. 
 An attempt was made to constitute it. a dependency to the 
 Hotel des Invalides ; and it would even have been sold in lots, 
 had not Napoleon preserved it from destruction . The estimated 
 expense of 50 millions of francs, for its restoration, alone 
 hindered him from residing here ; hut he repaired the walls, 
 fountains, 8cc., and restored some of the apartments. Louis 
 XVIII., who wished to re-establish the court in it, was stopped 
 by similar considerations, and limited his expenditure to 6 
 millions of francs, which were employed in repairs and in 
 building the pavilion on the southern side corresponding to 
 that of Gabriel. Louis Philippe, after adding a new pile of 
 buildings, connecting the chapel and theatre, repaired and 
 harmonized the different parts of the palace, at a cost of 
 15,000,000 fr., and devoted it to the I’eception of a rich and 
 splendid historical museum, unparalleled in Europe. 
 
 The Palace and its Dependencies. — Exterior.— The palace 
 is approached frosa the town by the Place d’Armes, 800 feet 
 broad, on the eastern side of which, flanking the Avenue de 
 Paris, are the Stables, erected under Louis XIV. by J. H. Man- 
 sard. They are fronted l)y elegant railings connecting their 
 lateral wings, and extending along a segment having its centre 
 in the court of the palace. They have lofty gateways decorated 
 with trophies, and enclose spacious courts. The buildings to the 
 north, called les Grandes Ecuries, and now occupied by the 
 artillery of the Gai'Je tmp&nalr, contained the carriages and 
 horses of the royal family ; while those to the south, called 
 les Petites Ecuries, included stables for the royal stud, a 
 riding-school, 6cc. The latter are now ban-acks for cavalry ; 
 the riding-school re-established in 18 55, is now again 
 suppressed. The two buildings together afford accom- 
 modation to 1000 horses. The Grand Court, 380 feet in 
 breadth, is separated from the Place d’Arraes by stone parapets, 
 flanking an iron railing, richly charged with gilded ornaments, 
 Avith a central gateway, surmounted by the ancient crown and 
 shield of France with the three fleurs de lis. At the extre- 
 mities of this railing arc groups of figures in stone ; those on 
 the right representing France victorious over Austria, by 
 Marsy", and Peace, hv the s<amc ; those op the left, France 
 
554 ENVIRONS OF I'AIUS. 
 
 viclorious over Spain, l)y Girardon, and A])undancc, by the 
 same. The court itself slopes from the palace, and on each 
 side is a plain range of huildings, erected hy Louis XIV. for 
 the use of the ministers. In front of those stand sixteen marhle 
 statues, twelve of which, until 1837, ornamented the Pont de 
 la Concorde at l\aris. Those on the right are Richelieu, Bayard, 
 Colhert, .lourdan, Massena, Tourville, Duguay-Trouin, and Tu- 
 renne ; those on the left are Suger, Du Guesclin, Sully, Lannes, 
 Mortier, Suffren, Duquesne, and Conde. At the upper part of 
 the court, is a colossal equestrian statue of Louis XIV. ; the 
 figure of the monarch, hy Petitot ; — that of the horse, originally 
 intended for a statue of Louis XV. in the Champs Elysees, hy 
 Cartclier. From I his point a fine view is obtained of the 
 three avenues which stretch beyond the place d’Armes. Beyond 
 the Grand Court, at first called the Cour des Ministres, is the 
 court formerly called Cour Roy ale, which, before 17 89 was 
 separated from it hy an iron railing, and within which none 
 hut the cairiages of royal personages, or privileged families 
 were admitted. On the northern side of this are the wing 
 and pavilion, in the Corinthian style, erected hy Gabriel, 
 under Louis XV.; on the southern are those terminked under 
 Louis XVIII. The friezes of the pediments surmounting these 
 pavilions hear the inscription, “ A toutes Ics gloires de la 
 France.” The Cour de Marhre, which follows, is enclosed 
 hy the old palace of Louis XIII., all of red brick coped with 
 stone; it consists of a ground floor and first story, surmounted 
 Jiy a hip-roof. The whole is crowned with balustrades and 
 vases, trophies, and statues. The busts, nearly all of white 
 marble, and either antique or imitations of the antique, are 80 
 in number, and are placed on brackets hetw^een the windows ; 
 tlie statues, vases, &c., were all executed by the most cele- 
 brated sculptors of the age of Louis XIV. in the centre is a 
 balcony of white marble, supported by four couples of Doric 
 columns of coloured marble ; above this is an attic crowmed 
 W'ith two recumbent figures — Mars, sculptured by Marsy, 
 and Ilei’cules, by Girardon, supporting a clock. (1 ) An octagonal 
 overhanging turret graces one of the corners of the soutiiern 
 wing. (9.) South of the Cour Royale, a small court, wdiich bears 
 
 ft) Tlic dial-plate of this clock was only used 1o mark llie 
 lumr of the king’s dcatli, which in the case of Louis XIV., was 
 announced hy the principal gontleinan of the hed-chainher, 
 wlio came out on Die balcony lielow, and, exclaiming “ Le roi 
 est. mort!" broke his wand of office; lie then took up another, 
 and cried “ Vive le roi!" 
 
 (2) The p.avenient of the Cour de Marbre, was formerly much 
 more elevated. In the centre stood a beautiful basin anil foun- 
 
VERSAILLES. 655 
 
 llie name of Cour des Princes, divides the wing finished by 
 I.ouis XVIII. from the southern one. This wdng encloses the 
 Cour de la Surintendance, so called from the offices that once 
 occupied its eastern side, and now ceded to the municipality of 
 Versailles for the public library, &c. A street ajiproachcs the 
 palace on this side, and separates the southern wing from the 
 GrandCommun, avast square building, now a military hosjy- 
 tal, substantially built of brick, enclosing a square court, and 
 containing 1,000 rooms. (1) North of the Cou?’ i?oi/o/e, the 
 Cour de la C7mpe//e intervenes between the wing built by 
 Louis XV. and the chapel, the architecture of which is 
 remarkably llorid and elegant, in the best style of the 
 preceding age. It is ornamented with Corinthian pilasters 
 lietween the windows, with sculpture, formerly gilt, and a 
 balustrade,crowned by 28 statues. The external dimensions 
 are 148 feet by 7 5, in length and breadth, with an altitude 
 of 90 feet. The height of its roof, richly edged with iron 
 work, causes this building to he seen over the palace from 
 almost every side, and is said to have resulted from a design 
 of the architect, to force Louis XIV. to raise the whole palace 
 another story. The northern xving comprises the Cour de la 
 Bouche, where the kitchens were, and the Cour du Theatre; 
 the latter hounded on the north by the Salle de I’Opera, the 
 exterior of which is plain and massive. Beyond the theatre is 
 one of the great reservoirs which supply the fountains. The 
 eastern side of these courts is formed by a pile of building of 
 elegant design, and harmonizing with the older parts of the 
 palace, repaired by Louis Philippe; it forms one side of a 
 wide street, to the east of xvhich are some minor dependencies 
 of tlic palace, and another reservoir. The Cour de la Chapelle 
 and the Cour des Princes lead each into the gardens, and afford 
 access to the magnificent western front of the palace — the 
 grandest specimen of that style in France. It presents a large 
 projecting mass of building, with two immense wings, and 
 consists of a ground-fioor and first-floor of the Ionic style, and 
 an attic. The wings, the southern being rather the longer of the 
 two, exceed 500 feet in length; the central front is 320 feet 
 long, and each of its retiring sides 200 feet; the number of 
 windows and doors is 37 5. The immense extent of the facade 
 
 lain, and Hie court ilself was oflen used by Louis XIV., for 
 feslivals and “ masques.” 
 
 (1) No less lhan 3,ooo personswerc lodgedhere vlien theCourt 
 resided at Versailles. In t70.'> it was converted inlo a manu- 
 factory of arms, Avliich attained the highest celebrity, and sup- 
 plied the French army annually with 5o,ooo muskets. In 
 t8i.‘) it was stripped and devastated by the Prussians. 
 
556 
 
 EiWlHONS OF PARIS. 
 
 is broken at intervals by 1 5 peristyles of coupled Ionic co- 
 lumns, surmounted by allegorical figures in stone. The best 
 view of this front is from the great terrace, and the whole pa- 
 lace may be advantageously seen from the heights of Satory. 
 
 Interior, and Historical Museum. —Before noticing the 
 internal arrangements of the palace, the reader should be in- 
 foi-med that the gallery is open to the public every day 
 except Mondays, from 1 1 to 4 in winter, and to 5 in summer. 
 At the entrance of the palace, near the chapel, is an office 
 Avhere authorized guides, very useful to strangers, may be hired 
 at the rate of a franc an hour ( see Preface, p. viii.). The 
 historical collections comprised in the palace may be divided 
 into seven sections;—!. Historical Pictures; 2. Portraits; 
 ;!. Busts and Statues ; 4. Coins ; .5. Views of Royal Residences’ 
 &c.; 6. Marine Gallery; 7. Tombs. The historical pictures re- 
 present the great battles, military and naval, which have 
 illustrated the arms of France from the earliest periods ; — the 
 most remarkable historical events in the national annals ; the 
 age of Louis XIV.; the reigns of Louis XV. and Louis XVI.’; the 
 brilliant epoch of 1792 ; the victories of the first Republic ; the 
 campaigns of Napoleon; the chief events of the Empire’; the 
 reign of Louis XVIIL; the reign of Charles X.; the revolution 
 of 1830, and the reign of Louis Philippe. The portraits, 
 busts, statues, and coins comprise the Kings fi-om Phara- 
 mond to the late monarch— Grand Admirals, Constables, Mar- 
 shals, and celebrated warriors of France, with a large col- 
 lection of persons of note of all ages and countries. The views 
 of royal residences have a particular value, as representing 
 edifices, many of which no longer exist, and as illustrating the 
 costumes, 5cc., of past times. 
 
 Northern HVni/.— This wing partly occupies the site 
 of the Fontaine de Tethys, immortalized by La Fontaine, 
 and was first inhabited by the Duke de Bcrri, grandson of 
 Louis XIV., the Prince de Conti, elected King of Poland in 1 697 , 
 the Duke du Maine, son of Louis XIV., the beautiful Marquise 
 de Thianges, sister of Madame de Montespan, Marshal Villars, 
 and the Duke de St. Simon, author of the Memoirs. In after 
 times the ground-floor was partly occupied by the Prince de 
 Conde, who commanded the army of emigrants during the re- 
 volution of 1789 ; and the first floor (1) by the Dukes of An- 
 gouleme and Berri, sons of Charles X. The visitor, on entering 
 the Vestibule de la Chapelle, obtains a commodious view of 
 
 (0 It was in the room of this story, arljoinina the vestibule of 
 file chapel, that the Cardinal de Rolian was arrested for tlie 
 affair of the famous necklace ttiat had so fatal an influence oq 
 the destinies of Marie .Antoinette and her court, 
 
VEUSAILLES. 'obi 
 
 The Chapel. — The interior of this edifice was restored 
 under Louis Philippe to its original splendour, (i) It consists 
 of a nave and aisles supporting side galleries fronted with 
 elegant Corinthian columns. The dimensions are 114 feet from 
 the entrance to the altar, GO feet in breadth, and 8G feet 
 in height. The square compartments of the ceiling of the 
 galleries are painted with sacred subjects. The balustrades 
 are of marble and gilt bronze. The arched ceiling 
 springing from a rich architrave and cornice, above the lofty 
 columns, glows from the pencil of A. Coypel, Lafosse, and 
 Jouvenet ; the figures over the organ and galleries are by the 
 Boullongnes and Coypel. The pavement is composed of rare 
 marbles wrought in mosaic. In the aisles there are seven 
 altars, ornamented with costly marbles, gilding, pictures, and 
 bronze bas-reliefs, the latter peculiarly worthy of inspection. 
 They stand in the following order; 1 , Martyrdom of Ste. Adelaide, 
 by Adam; 2, Ste. Anne teaching the Virgin ; 3, St. Charles 
 Borromeo imploring Heaven to arrest the plague at Milan, by 
 Bouchardon; 4. the Chapelle du Dauphin, opposite to which is 
 a Last Supper, by Paul Veronese ; 5, Martyrdom of St. Peter; 
 6, St. Louis succouring the plague-stricken, by Poiriet ; 7, Mar- 
 tyrdom of Ste. Victoire. The Chapel of the Virgin, painted 
 by BouUongne jun., deserves notice. The high altar is exceed- 
 ingly grand, and the organ is one of the finest in France. In 
 1798 this Chapel remained almost uninjured. Service is 
 chaunted here every Sunday morning. 
 
 The Historical Museum is entered from the ground floor 
 vestibule of the Chapel, by a door to the right, on the side 
 fronting the gardens. The walls are adorned with an allego- 
 rical alto-relievo representing Louis XIV. crossing the Bhine 
 at Tolhuis in 1672. A suite of apartments, eleven in number, 
 contains a series of pictures illustrating some of the principal 
 events of the history of France up to the I’evolution of 17 89. At 
 the end of this suite the visitor on application is introduced to 
 
 The Salle de I’Opera.—Ai the opposite extremity of tlie 
 northern wing, and approached by a staircase lately constructed, 
 is the theatre. Its length is 144 feet, divided into equal parts 
 by the curtain; its breadth CO feet, and its height 50 ; 14 Ionic 
 columns, fluted and gilt, separate the upper boxes, fronted 
 with balustrades, &c., richly gilt. The otlier decorations are 
 in crimson and gold, with a profusion of mirrors and chan- 
 deliers. The ceiling is by Durameau. The central box is taste- 
 fully decorated, and was that occupied by Louis XV. The 
 
 (i) Many remarkable religious ceremonies took place before its 
 altar, one of the most interesting was the marriage of Louis XVI. 
 and Marie Antoinette, in nc9. 
 
ENVIRONS OF PATUSi 
 
 lateral boxes were reserved for the Ambassadors, and the nit 
 for the Staff. Behind the entrance to the royal box is the Foyer 
 duRoi, Avhere the Court retired for refreshment between the 
 acts. It is of Ionic architecture, lit by four windows ; above 
 the doors and chimney piece are fine alti-rilievi, and the de- 
 corations are in keeping with those of the Salle. The Foyer 
 des Ambassadeurs is below, (l) Whenever a grand opera was 
 performed here, the expense is said to have been upwards of 
 100,000 fr. A small fee is expected by the conductor. 
 
 On leaving this place the visitor will enter a gallery, 300 
 feet in length, situated behind the historical museum, aiid con- 
 taining the busts, statues, and monumental effigies ofthekin^s, 
 queens, and illustrious personages of France up to the reign'^of 
 Louis XV. In the middle of this gallery is the entrance to the 
 
 Salle des Croisades, a series of five splendid rooms in the 
 Gothic style, forming a gallery of pictures relating to those 
 interesting periods. The ceilings and walls are covered with 
 armorial bearings of French knights who fought in the Holy 
 Land ; the 3d room, bisected by a series of three arches, 
 contains colossal pictures of battles fought during the crusades! 
 The first picture to the left on entering is executed in Beauvais' 
 tapestry, from the original painting of Horace Vernet. Under 
 the arches are three monumental tombs; those in plaster bear 
 the recumbent figures of Parisot de la Vallette and Pierre d’Au- 
 busson, Grand Masters of the Order of St. John of Jeru- 
 salem ; the central one is a cast from the original marble 
 statue of Villiers de ITslc Adam in the attitude of prayer, 
 the piers of the arches and the intervals of the wall between the 
 pictures are filled with escutcheons bearing the respective names 
 and dates. Facing the central window stands a large mortar 
 formerly used for medical purposes by the Knights Hospi- 
 tallers of St. John of Rhodes, and in the wall opposite are the ce - 
 dar gates of the Hospital of the order of St. John of Jerusalem, in 
 
 (I) Of the grand fetes given here, the first was in honour of 
 the marriage of Louis XVI.; the next for tiie birth of his son; 
 the third, the ill-judged banquet of the Gardes du Corps, in 
 1789 ; the fourth, on the grand inauguration of tlie Historical 
 Museum, ivthMay, is37; tlie fifth on the occasion of the Na- 
 tional Exhibition in isii, and the last, on the 25lh August, 
 
 1 855, when Her Majesty Queen Victoria partook of a splendid 
 supper here, on the occasion of the grand ball given in tliis pa- 
 lace in lionour of her visit to the Emperor. On this occasion 
 the pit was boarded over, and 4oo guests sat down to table. The 
 royal party, including the Queen and Prinec Albert, tlie Emperor 
 and Empress, the Princess Royal and Prince of Wales, Prince 
 Napoleon, Princess Matilda, and tlie Prince of Rai^aria, supped in 
 Hie Imperial box. Tlie Salle was lit by 42 lustres and chandeliers. 
 
VERSAILLES. 659 
 
 the island of Rhodes, given to the Prince de Joinville by Sultan 
 Mahmoud in 183C. The shields above these gates are finely 
 carved. Between the two entrances to the Salle des Croisades 
 stands a splendid monument in plaster of Ferdinand of Arra- 
 gon and Elizabeth of Castillo, transported here from the Louvre. 
 
 On issuing from the statue-gallery, a winding staircase by 
 the side of the Chapel leads to the vestibule of the first floor. 
 Here is another gallery of statues, 8cc., of personages illustrious 
 in the earlier ages of the monarchy. In the central recess 
 overlooking the Escalier de Constantine is a beautiful statue 
 of the late Duke of Orleans, executed by Pradier, in white 
 marble. The pedestal is octagonal ; four of its sides are graced 
 with statues of genii in niches, of extraordinary beauty ; on 
 two more are bas-reliefs illustrating scenes of the African 
 campaign conducted by the Prince ; the statue itself repre- 
 sents him in an easy sitting posture; the drapery is grace- 
 ful (1.) Against the wall we see a statue of Marshal Bugeaud, 
 near which doors open into a series of seven rooms, contain- 
 ing splendid paintings of peculiar interest. 
 
 In the first of these rooms we see, among others, two full- 
 length portraits of Marshals Bosquet and Canrobert. In the 
 second there are ; 1 . a large painting representing the Con- 
 gress of Paris in 1860, and remarkable for the portraits it con- 
 tains of the statesmen who took part in it ; 2 . the Battle of 
 the Alma, by Bivoulon; 3. the storming of theMamelon Vert, 
 by Protais; 4. the triumphal entry into Paris of the troops 
 returned from Italy in 1859. In the third to the right are ; 
 Horace Vernet’s celebrated picture of the surprise of Abdel- 
 Kader’s Smala, a full-length portrait of that distinguished 
 Arab, and a painting of the siege of Rome in 1849. Next 
 follows to the left the Salle de Constantine, containing large 
 pictures of the taking of that place, and other scenes of the Al- 
 gerian war, besides others of the taking of Antwerp, Ancona, 
 and St. Juan d’UUoa, all by Horace "Vernct. The fifth is a 
 large saloon, the coves of which bear reference to the war of 
 Morocco. It contains full-lengtlr portraits of Marshal de St. 
 Arnaud and Marshal MacMahon, Duke of Magenta ; the storm- 
 ing of Sebastopol, by De Vaux ; the battles of Magenta and 
 Solferino, and busts of Marshals Niel and Bosquet, by Count 
 de Nieuwerkerkc. The storming of the Malakoff tower is also 
 here. In the sixth and seventh rooms we find subjects taken 
 from thelirsl revolution, including tlie ISthBrumaire by Bou- 
 chot, and from the history of France in the IGth century. 
 
 (i) In 1848 the Provisional Government, fearing an aifnek on 
 the palace, caused this statue to he concealed in a store-room, 
 hut it now occupies its former position. 
 
5 GO ENVIRONS or PARIS. 
 
 The visitor now returns to the statue-gallery, and, turn- 
 ing to his right, will perceive, amongst others, the admirable 
 statue of Joan of Arc, executed by the late talented Princess 
 Marie of France, Duchess of W urtemlierg. Ascending the 
 staircase at the end leading to the attic story, he will find a 
 room to the right containing portraits of celebrated literati, men 
 of science, and artists. On the landing-place stands a bust of 
 Froissart, the chronicler. Adjoining are seven rooms on the gar- 
 den side, and three more, including a long gallery looking into the 
 northern court, containing a collection of historical portraits, 
 from the earliest times to those of Louis XVI and Marie Antoi- 
 nette, Louis XVIII., and Charles X., many of which are ori- 
 ginal ; between the embrasures of the windows are glass stands 
 \yith coins, medals. Sec. Returning to the first story, the vi- 
 sitor will examine a suite of 10 rooms, on the garden side, in 
 which the series of historical paintings is continued from 1795 
 to the revolution of 1830. It ends in the elegant Corinthian 
 vestibule, already mentioned, with statues of France and Peace 
 in niches, and affording a more distinct view of the upper part 
 of the chapel and the royal pew, adorned with two admirable 
 bas-reliefs, viz., the Circumcision by Poiriet, and Christ with 
 the Doctors, by Coustou. This vestibule opens into 
 
 The Grands Appartements, which occupy the whole of the 
 first floor of the central projecting building facing the garden ; 
 the suite on the north belonged to the Ring, that on the south 
 was the Queen’s. The former present a striking contrast to 
 the other suites of the palace ; they are large and lofty, en- 
 crusted with marbles, and loaded with a profusion of massive 
 gilded ornaments ; the ceilings are richly painted, and the ge- 
 neral effect is gorgeous. The Queen’s apartments are in wdilte 
 and gold, with ceilings less richly painted, and from their 
 southern aspect have a light and cheerful appearance. All these 
 rooms, contain a most interesting series of pictures and portraits 
 illustrative of the life and domestic relations of Louis XIV. 
 The Salon d’Hercule, which precedes the suite, once descended 
 to the ground-floor, and was the chapel where Bossuet and 
 Massillon preached. The splendid ceiling, 04 feet by 54, repre- 
 senting the apotheosis of Hercules, was executed by Lemoyne 
 in 17 29. Here are also the equestrian porti'ait of Louis XIV. 
 and the Passage of the Rhine. Next follows the Salle de l’Abo 7 i- 
 dance, with a ceiling painted by Houasse, and representing 
 Abundance. This opens to the left into two rooms which con- 
 tain some excellent aquarelles of military subjects, and give 
 access to the Salle des Etats-Generaux. Its walls are covered 
 with paintings byBlondel, representing the sittings of the States 
 General on various occasions, the Ills de justice, &c., thus 
 
VERSAILLES. 
 
 5ei 
 
 forming a complete history of the origin and gradual progress 
 of Constitutional government in France. Returning to theSu//e 
 dc V Abondance, the next are the Salons de Venus, and de- 
 Diane, which derive their names from the subjects on the 
 ceilings, the first by Ilouassc, and the latter by Blanchard. 
 Ill the former is a 1 eautiful group of tlie three Graces in 
 white marble, by Pradier ; and in the latter there arc 
 portraits of Marie Therese of Austria and Louis XIV. The 
 Salon de Mars was used as a liall-room by Louis XIV.; 
 its ceiling is by Audran, Jouvenet, and Ilouasse. Here a 
 picture representing the interview of Louis XIV. and Philip 
 IV. of Spain is worthy of attention. Beyond is the Salon 
 de Merc lire, once the state bed-room, and remarkable for its 
 ! ceiling, by Jean Baptiste Champagne, and various subjects 
 from the reign of Louis XIV. Next is the Salon d’ Apollon, 
 ;or Throne Room, (1) with a ceiling painted by Lafosse. The 
 [series of paintings above mentioned is continued here. The 
 \Salon de la Guerre, consecrated to the military glory of 
 Louis XIV., contains a ceiling by Lebrun, representing France 
 chastising Germany, Spain, and Holland. It leads into 
 the Grande Galerie des Glaces (or de Louis XIV.), one 
 of the liiiest rooms in the world, extending with the Salon 
 de la Guerre and the Salon de la Paix, at the opposite extre- 
 mity, along the whole of the central facade, and measuring 
 2.39 feet in length, 35 feet in width, and 43 feet in height. It 
 is lighted by 17 large arched windows, which correspond with 
 arches on the opposite wall, filled with mirrors ; sixty Corin- 
 thian pilasters of red marble, with bases and capitals of gilt 
 bronze, fill up the intervals between the windows and between 
 the arches ; each of the entrances is adorned with columns of 
 the same order. The vaulted ceiling was painted along its 
 whole length by Lebrun, and is divided into nine large and 
 eighteen smaller compartments, in which are allegorically re- 
 presented the principal events in the history of Louis XIV., 
 from the peace of the Pyrenees in 1659 to that of Nimeguen in 
 
 (i) Here Louis XIV. received ambassadors, accepted the apo- 
 logy of the Doge of Genoa, and in i7i5 held his last public au- 
 dience. It was used for similar purposes by Louis XV. and Louis 
 ;XVI. Splendid fetes were held here, of which those on the 
 marriage of the Duke de Bourgogne in i697, on the arrival of 
 tMarie Antoinette, and on the occasion of Her Majesty Queen Vic- 
 itoria’s visit, Aug. 25, 1 85 5, were themostbrilliant. On this occasion 
 the Galen'e des Glaces lit with 3000 waxcandles and 42 chande- 
 liers. The private apartments were thrown open to the guests, and 
 file st.airs, vestibules, and sitting-rooms, decked with the rarest 
 llowcrs. Queen Victoria opened tlic ball with the Emperor in a 
 ([uadrille, and waltzed with him in the course of Hie evening. 
 
 36 
 
562 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 167 8. 10 niches on either side are marble statues of Venus, ^ 
 Minerva, Adonis, and Mercury. At a short distance, througii ! 
 one of the doors to the left, is the entrance to the | 
 
 Private Apartments. — Tlie first of these is the Cabinet da 
 Roi, or Salon da Conseil, containing part of the original fur- 
 niture of the time of Louis XfV., among which will he noted.; 
 the council table and arm-chair of the King. At one end is a f 
 celebrated clock, which displays a figure of that Monarch, and ^ 
 plays a chime when the hour strikes, (i) From this room ad-{ 
 inittance is obtained, on application, to a suite of rooms, called s 
 
 Les Petits Appartements reserves , which occupy the northern I 
 side of the Coar de Marbre, to which none were admitted but 
 those who had the grande entree. The first was the billiard-' 
 room of Louis XIV., and was afterwards the bed-chamber 
 of his successors ; it was in this room the death of Louis 
 
 XV. , so graphically described in Madame Campan’s Memoirs, 
 took place. At present- it contains a small equestrian statue 
 of Louis XV. Beyond is the Salle des Pendales, so called 
 from a magnificent clock, which shows the day of the month, 
 the phases of the moon, the revolution of the earth, and the 
 motion of the planets. Near this is a fine marble table, on 
 which is engraved a plan of the forest of St. Germain. On the 
 floor is a meridian line traced by the hands of Louis XVI. '2) Next 
 comes the Cabinet des Chasses, from whence a window on a 
 balcony looks into the Coar des Cerfs, where the RoyarFaimly 
 
 f placed themselves aftSr' grand hunting parties to see the game 
 counted in the court. A grated door to the left of this window 
 admitted Madame du Barri secretly to Louis XV. ’s chamber ; 
 
 (1) In this room Louis XIV. used to transact business with his 
 minislers Colbert, Louvois, and Torcy; here he took leave of 
 Marshal Villars, when the fate of the monarchy depended on the 
 campaign whicli ended with the victory of Denain ; here he re- 
 ceived Lord Bolingbrole ; here he introduced to the grandees 
 of Spain his grandson, Uie Due d’ Anjou, as their Ling, and de- 
 clared that “thenceforth there were no Pyrenees.” Louis XV. 
 lie'-e signed the decree for expelling the Jesuits, in 1762, and the 
 treaty that terminated tlie seven years’ war, in 1763; here, al.so, 
 that easy monarch suffered Mine, dn Barry to sit on the arm 6f 
 his chair in the presence of the Council, and to fling into the fire 
 a packet of uno])ened dispatches. On the 23d June, nsg, in 
 the recess of the window nearest the Royal bedchamber, Louis 
 
 XVI. received from the Marquis de Dreu.x-^BiAzii the bold reply oi 
 Mirabeau, that “the deputies were assembled by the will of the 
 people, and would not leave their place of meeting except by the 
 force of his master’s bayonets.’’ 
 
 ( 2 ) The conductor will sometimes take the visitor to the Cabinet 
 ds Travail da Louis XVt., instead of following the order of the pre- 
 sent desciiplion. 
 
VEUSAILLES. 
 
 563 
 
 Ber apartment was over this room, and was approached by a 
 Imall staircase, the access to which is by a richly gilded door. 
 Rtthe bottom of this staij'casc, leading into the Cour de Mar- 
 vre, an attempt was made to assassinate Louis XV. by Damiens 
 In 17 57. (1) The Cabinet des Classes contains the portraits of 
 Ihe principal architects, painters, &c., who have contributed 
 |o tbe building and ornamenting of the palace. Adjoining is 
 W\Q Sat on du Dejeuner de Louis XIV., also looking on the Cour 
 jdes Cerfs. Here an elegant cupboard will be remarked, with 
 a miniature representing a huntingparty ; and adorned around 
 Iwith medallions, in Sevres porcelain, of family portraits of the 
 time. (2) From this room tbe landing placeof a staircase, which 
 leads to one of the vestibules and to the Galerie des Marechaux 
 (see below) opens into what formerly was a billiard-room, and 
 which was also used by Mignard for a study or atelier. This 
 leads to the Salle d manger de Louis XIV., afterwards the 
 Cabinet de Louis XVI., where the latter traced out the route 
 of the unfortunate Lapeyrouse. (3) Immediately adjoining 
 this room is Louis^IV.’s Confessional, and the chair once oc 
 cupied by Pe re Ta Chaise, or KreTstellier whilst gaining that 
 intruence over Hie royal mind which' ended in the Revocation 
 of the Edict of Nantes. The suite terminates here at the ex- 
 tremity of the Cour de Marbre. It contains numerous portraits 
 and pictures relating to the personages and times by which they 
 have been rendered remarkable. Returning to the Salle des Pen- 
 dules, we pass to the Cabinet de Travail de Louis XVI. , with an 
 equestrian portrait of Louis XIV. ; next is the Cabinet de la Vais - 
 selle d’or, or des Porcelaines, with a portrait of Madame de Main- 
 tenon, and the infant Marie Adelaide of Savoy at her knees ; the 
 Cabinet des Medailles, with a miniature painting of fine execu- 
 
 (1) On the same floor with the apartment of Madame du Barry 
 are several small chambers, where Louis XV. and his successor 
 used to seclude themselves ; adjoining was a worlisliop, where 
 Louis XVI. had his turning-lathe eslahlished, and another in 
 which his forge still exists. Above was a belvedere, overlooking 
 the palace and neighbourhood, where the latter monarch uas 
 accustomed to sit with a telescope, and amuse himself in watcli- 
 ing what passed in the town anrl palace gardens. 
 
 (2) This was the private apartment of Madame de Maintenon, 
 in which Louis XIV. passed most of his evenings in flie latter 
 part of his life; it was the saloon of King Louis Philippe during 
 his visits to Versailles. 
 
 (3) Here Louis XIV. generally dined with Madame de Maintenon 
 and his family. Tire great monarch never touched tea, chocolate, 
 coffee, or any liqueur; he disliked game, but was fond ot pastry ; 
 he had only two meals a day, and drank no oilier \Miie Ilian 
 Champagne, always iecd. In this room Louis XIV. himself waited 
 on Molif’re, to teach his courtiers to respect genius. 
 
564 ENVIRONS OP PARIS. | 
 
 tion representing the Coronation of Louis XV., the BihliotheqmA 
 where the historians of France are now collected, and in' 
 which, in a cupboard near the northern door, the famous Lime 
 Rouge was found; and the Salle d manger de Louis XF,, with 
 paintings of the taking of Cambrai, Naarden, and Reinberg. 
 
 Returning to the Salon da Conseil, the visitorentcrs the Cham- 
 bre d coucher de Louis XIV., which occupies the centre of the 
 front towards the Gourde Marbre, and is the gem of the palace. 
 The decorations of this splendid room, of the Composite order, 
 are exceedingly magnificent, and the furniture has been care- 
 fully restored to the slate in which it was at the decease of 
 the “Grand Monarch.” The ceiling, by Paul Veronese, re- 
 presents Jupiter punishing Crime ; it was placed here by Na- 
 poleon I., who brought it from the hall of the Council of Ten, 
 at Venice. Beside the bed are two Holy Families of the Ita- 
 lian and Flemish schools ; and other paintings represent Louis 
 XIII. and other personages of the Royal Family. The bed, 
 enclosed by a splendidly gilt balustrade, is that on which the 
 great King died; it was made by Simon Delobel, his valet, 
 who worked at it for twelve years, and the coverlet and hang- 
 ings are partly the work of the young ladies of St. Cyr. ( l ) We 
 next come to the OEil de B oeuf, a beautifully decorated room, 
 the grand antechainberoT the King, so called from an oval win- 
 dow aF the extremity, and celebrated in the annals of’Ter- 
 sSilles for Tlie'lh’trigues of courtiers, who waited here the 
 “lever” of the monarch. Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette 
 dined here in public on Sundays. In this room there is a 
 bronze model of the equestrian statue of Louis XIV. which 
 stands in the court ; also a large painting of Louis XIV. and 
 his family, represented as the Gods of Olympus, by Nocret. 
 A door on the left leads to the Salle des Gardes du Corps 
 du Roi, and the Salle des Valets de pied du Roi, containing 
 some good paintings of the Flemish school. 
 
 A small door in the south-west corner of the OEil de Band 
 communicates with the Queen’s private apartments and TTetl- 
 room. These are shown with the former, and go by the name 
 of Petits Ajopartements de Marie Antoinette. They contain, 
 besides other rooms of ordinary use, her library, with her 
 bust, and her boudoir with a bust of Joseph 11.(2) A fee is given 
 to the attendants who show these rooms and the Petits Ap- 
 
 (\) Since the death of Louis XIV. no monarch has slept n this 
 room ; but from tlie balcony Louis XVL, altended by the Queen 
 and his children, addressed the infuriated mob who came to tear 
 him from his palace on the olh October, 1789. 
 
 (9': These rooms vvere placed at Queen Victoria’s disposal during 
 her visits to the palace. 
 
I VERSAILLES.’ 665 
 
 partements. Bcturning to the OEil de Bceuf and the Galerie 
 §es Glaces, we find at the opposite end of the latter, the 
 ' Salon de la Paix, formerly the Queen’s card-room, a splen- 
 (3 id room, which was the scene of many curious and pi- 
 quant anecdotes. The ceiling, hy Lebrun, represents France 
 dispensing universal peace and abundance. From this 
 dpcns the Chambrc d coucher de Marie Antoinette, oc- 
 cupied successively by Maria Theresa, Queen of Louis XIV., 
 ^aria Leezinska, Queen of Louis XV., and Marie Antoinette (1.) 
 The medallions of the ceiling are by Boucher ; those above the 
 doors by Natoire and Delroy. Three large painting will be 
 remarked ; the Marriage of Louis XIV. with Maria Theresa 
 (loco), by Lebrun ; the Birth of the Due de Bourgogne ' 1 C 82 ), 
 hyBigaud, and the marriage of the latter with Marie Adelaide, 
 hy Dieu. The series is continued in the following rooms. The 
 Salon de la Reine was used for the Queen’s evening parties, 
 which were at their highest splendour under Maria Theresa, 
 Queen of Louis XIV. The ceiling, representing Mercury, is hy 
 Michael Corneille. In the Salon du Gravid Convert de la Reine, 
 Louis XIV., during the life-time of his consort, frequently dined. 
 Maria Leezinska always dined here in public, and also Marie 
 Antoinette while Dauphiness. The present ceiling is remark- 
 able for a fine painting by Paul Veronese, St. Mark crowning 
 the Theological FM’f ites, brought hy Napoleon from Venice. The 
 ceiling of the following Salle des Valets de pied de la Reine, 
 is painted by Coypel, with Jupiter in his car, and was the 
 scene of the slaughter of the Queen’s guards. Here is a marble 
 statue of Louis "XV. in his youth, by Cortot; a full-length 
 portrait of Marie Adelaide of Savoy, and marble busts of 
 Louis XVI., Louis XV., Marie Antoinette, Marie Leezinska, 
 Louis the Dauphin, Marie Adelaide, and Madame Elisabeth, 
 
 The Queen’s state apartments terminate here at the Esca- 
 lier de Marbre, which is one of the finest in Frande for the 
 richness and variety of its marbles. Immediately leading 
 from them is the Grande Salle des Gardes, now called the 
 Salle du Sacre, from its containing David’s famons picture of 
 the Coronation of Napoleon. (2) Opposite is his Distribution 
 
 (i) Here the Duchess of Bourgoime gave birth to Louis XV., and 
 Marie Antoinette to the Duchess d’Angouleme; here, too, tlic un- 
 fortunate Queen was awakened from her bed on the fata! niglitof 
 ‘tlie 5tli and 6th of October, 1789, and forced to escape by the. small 
 *door to the left, leading by a passage to the OEil de Boeuf, from 
 (the mob which had burst into the palace. 
 
 i (2) The artist received 100,000 fr. for this fine painting, and 
 75,000 fr. for the “ Distribution of the Eagles to the Legions.” A 
 second picture of the Coronation, also by David, was lately sold 
 in Paris for less than 3000 fr. 
 
506 
 
 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 of the Eagles to the Legions, and facing the windows, the 1 
 Battle of Aboukir, by Gros. Here also are paintings of Napo- 1 
 leon, as General and as Emperor. Tlie ceiling, by Callet, '! 
 is allegorical of the 18th Brumaire. Two smalf rooms com- j 
 pleting the remainder of this wing formed the Chapel of the 
 Chateau of Louis XIII. ; they were inhabited by Louis de Bour-'t 
 bon, Count de Clermont, under Louis XV., and now contaiiC 
 pictures illustrative of the campaigns of 1793 and the two suc^ 
 j ceeding years. Next follows a saloon, formerly called the! 
 Salle des Cent Suisses, and now Salle de 17 92. This isl 
 one of the most interesting apartments of the palace, containJ 
 ; ing portraits of all the great military characters of the revoJ 
 • lution of 17 89, and many in duplicate, representing them asj 
 ; in 1792, and as they became under the empire. Napoleon isJ 
 seen as lieutenant-colonel, in 1792, and as Emperor, in 1806;— 
 Marshal Lannes as sub-lieutenant, in 1792, and Duke de Mon- 
 tebello, in 1804; — Marshal Soult as sergeant, in 1792 , and 
 Duke de Dalmatie, in 1804;— Murat as sub-lieutenant, in 
 1792, and King of Naples, in 1808;— Marshal Bernadotte, the 
 late IHng of Sweden, as lieutenant, in 1792, and Prince of Pon- 
 tecorvo, in 1804; — Louis Philippe, as lieutenant-general, in 
 1792, and King in 1830. There arc also valuable portraits 
 of Lafayette, Dumouriez, Kellermann, and most of the marshals 
 of Napoleon. A few stairs in a corner of this room, to the 
 left on entering, lead to a scries of 8 rooms, called from their 
 contents the Galerie des Gouaches et Aquarelles des Campaynes 
 rfe 1796 d 1814. In this division of the palace are the old 
 apartments of Cardinal Fleiiry, minister to Louis XV. 
 
 The upper stor}^ of the centre, like the corresponding one in 
 each of the wings, was occupied in the palmy days of Versailles 
 by the nobles officially attached to the court. The apartments 
 contained in it are now appropriated to the general service of 
 the palace, and to part of the museum of portraits. 
 
 From the Salle de 1792 the visitor reaches the Escalier des 
 Princes, adoi'ned with coupled Composite pilasters, a highly 
 sculptured ceiling, numerous bas-reliefs, and marble statues 
 of Louis XIV., Louis Philippe, and Napoleon I. It opens 
 into the 
 
 Southern Wing. — This part of the Palace, being appropriated 
 to the children and immediate family of the monarch, was 
 called Aile des Princes. (1) On descending the Escalier des 
 Princes, the visitor finds avcstibule on the first story adorned 
 
 (l) The internal arran^fcmcnls of this wing liaving been en- 
 tirelj' changed, it will he sufficient hfielly to enumerate the 
 Princes Avho inhabited it. Tlie southern end of llie first floor 
 was appropriated to the grandchildren of Louis XIV., with F(?pe^ 
 
VERSAILLES. ^^7 
 
 witli the busts of Mansard, Le Notre, Malesherbcs, etc., which 
 gives access to the 
 
 Galerie de V Empire, a suite of 14 rooms, including a vesti- 
 bule about half-way, called Salle Napoleon, which contains a 
 series of busts and statues of the Bonaparte family. The other 
 rooms all contain upwards of 300 pictures of the martial ex- 
 ploits of the eventful times of Napoleon I., from 179G to 1810. 
 The last room is adorned in the centre with a triumphal co- 
 lumn entirely of Sevres porcelain, surmounted by a figure of 
 Victory, and adorned with paintings representing scenes of the 
 first Empire, and five beautiful vases of Sevres porcelain Avith 
 bas-reliefs, illustrative of several scenes of the Empire. Around 
 are paintings representing the Battle of Marengo, the Passage 
 of the Great St. Bernard, etc. Behind this suite runs a gal- 
 lery, 327 feet long, filled with busts and statues of celebrated 
 generals between' 1790 and 1815. At the entrance of this 
 gallery, adjoining the Escalier des Princes, is a beautiful 
 colossal marlde statue of Gen. Hoche, by Milhomme. 
 
 Close to this statue, a staircase descends to the Galerie des 
 Marines, consisting of five rooms, and another collection of 
 portraits in four rooms. The same staircase leads down to the 
 Galerie des Tombeaux, a collection of plaster models taken 
 from the monuments of celebrated personages. Here a few 
 steps conduct the visitor down to six vaulted rooms, below 
 the level of the Cour de Marhre, in which the above series is 
 continued, and fine models are seen of Louis XVI. , Louis XVI II., 
 Charles X . , etc. The visitor may now return by the same way 
 to tlie Escalier des Princes, and, re-ascending it, enter the 
 Grande Galerie des Batailles, which includes the greater 
 part of the attic, and constitutes an immense gallery, 393 
 feet in length, 42 in breadth, and the same in height. 
 Coupled columns at each extremity and in the centre, sup- 
 porting intermediate arches, relieve the monotony of so great 
 a length ; the roof, vaulted like the Galerie des Glaces, is 
 lighted by sky-lights, and richly ornamented with gilded 
 
 Ion as their preceptor ; the Duke of Orleans, brother of Louis Xl\ ., 
 and the Duke de Chartres, afterwards Regent, occupied the re- 
 mainder. At a later period it was inhabited hy the Count d Artois, 
 aftenvards Charles X..1he Duke de Penthi(>\re, and other Princes 
 of the blood royal. At the northern extremity of the xvmg were 
 llie apartmentsof the Duke of Orleans, Philippe Egalit(5,and under 
 them, Avhere tlie arcade now leads intothe garden, was a small the- 
 atre, in which Lulli and Quinault often charmed the ears of the 
 court. On the ground-floor, the Princess de Lamhalle, the Dau- 
 phin, son of Louis XVI, , his sister, the Duchess d’Angouleme, 
 and the Count de Provence, afterwards Louis XYIII., were suc- 
 cessively lodged. 
 
568 
 
 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 compartments. On the walls are pictures of lar^e dimen 
 sions, representing great military triumphs, commencing 
 with the battle of Tolbiac, won by Clovis in 490 painted 
 by Ary Scheffer, and ending with that of Wagram 9tli July 
 ’'y Among the paintings liere, the 
 
 Battle of Imntenoy, by the same, particularly attracted Oneen 
 Victoria s attention during her visit. The effect of this nai- 
 lery IS exceedingly imposing. The works of Gerard Eu- 
 gene Delacroix, and Couder cannot fail to attract attention. 
 Around are busts of eminent generals on pedestals • and in 
 the embrasures of the windows are the names of the Princes 
 admirals, marshals of France, &c., who have died in battle’ 
 inscribed on black marble. Next to this is the Salle de 1 83o’ 
 devoted to pictures recording the principal events of that 
 revolution, viz. : Louis Philippe on the Place de Greve- 
 Declaration of the Deputies, the King’s oath to the Charter’ 
 and the Distribution of Standards to the National Guards ft) 
 The ceiling IS painted by Picot, with a group of Justice 
 liuth, and Fortitude. Behind these rooms runs a gallery 327 
 teet long, filled with statues and busts of celebrated per- 
 sonages from 1500 to 1792, called the Gale vie de Louis XIV. 
 
 By a staircase at the beginning of this gallery, the visi tor ascends 
 to the Athque du Midi, previous to which, he will remark 
 paintings opposite the landing-place, representing the Death of 
 Louis XIIL byDecaisne, and Leo XII. carried in procession, 
 by Horace Vernet. The attic itself consists of five rooms filled 
 with Jnstorical portraits, the greater part of which relate to 
 personages anterior to the first revolution, and are of the time. 
 
 portraits of Presidents Jackson and Polk 
 of Daniel Webster, Henry Clay, Washington, and George HI ’ 
 and, in the last room, portraits of Queen Victoria, Prince Albert’ 
 f nlf of Kent, and the Duke of York; and also 
 
 0 Pitt and Fox, Locke and Newton. Nextfollows a room partly 
 bisected by a central partition, and now called the S«/on des 
 por trail s de la Famlle Imperiale. Here maybe seen the 
 portraits of the present Emperor when a child and a youth • 
 of Prince Murat, Josephine, Joseph, etc. In a smaller 
 room are those of Louis XVIII. , Charles X., and the Duke 
 clAiigouleme. In a small cabinet annexed is a series of 
 ful -length miniature portraits, and an interview of Louis 
 XVIII. and the Duchess of Bcrri, liy Lccomte. Next comes 
 the interior of the turret, already mentioned, overlooking 
 the Cour de Marbre, containing a bust of Louis XIIL, and 
 leading to tlie Escaher de Marbre, above alluded to, which 
 we descend along its whole length. In a niche on a laiiding- 
 (I) These were removed in is i 8, but have been since replaced. 
 
VERSAILLES. 569 
 
 place of this most splendid staircase is a statue of Henry IV. 
 in his youth, by Bosio, a copy of those seen in the Louvre and 
 Hotel de Villc (see p. 1C9, 287.) The vestibule below con- 
 tains busts of Boileau,Santcuil, Claude Perrault, Lebrun, Man- 
 sart, Colbert, Racine, Rotrou, and other eminent men. To 
 our left is a second vestibule, containing busts and statues of 
 Voltaire, Montaigne, Molicre, Malherbe, etc. Next follows 
 the suite of the 
 
 Amiraux et Marechaux de France, consisting of 14 rooms, 
 besides two more, devoted to portraits of Guerriers Celebres, 
 all on the centre ground-lloor. Here we find the portraits of 
 the Grand Admirals, Constables, and Marshals of France. (1) 
 One of these rooms in the middle is called the Galerie do Louis 
 XI [L, behind which were the bathing-rooms of Marie Antoi- 
 nette, now changed into the 
 
 Galerie des Rois de France, containing the portraits of the 
 71 Kings of France, from Pharaniond down to Louis Phi- 
 lippe. Next follow four rooms with views of royal residences, 
 then a vestibule, with statues of Bossuet, d’Aguesseau, ITlo- 
 pital, and Fenelon, and, lastly, three rooms containing bird’s- 
 eye views of the Siege of La Rochelle, Nimes, etc. 
 
 Returning hence to the Galerie de Louis XIII. , we pass 
 through the remaining six rooms of the Salles des Marechaux. 
 In the last room but one we see full-length portraits of Marshal 
 St. Arnaud, Admiral Bruat, Marshals Vaillant, Mapian, and 
 Baraguay d Hillicrs. The last room contains portraits of cele- 
 brated warriors, such as Dunois, Bayard, etc. 
 
 From this we reach the elegant Escalier des Ambassadeurs, 
 near the vestibule of the Chapel ; this was built by Louis 
 Philippe. Four small courts, two on either side, are com- 
 prised within the buildings of this central pile; adjoining that 
 
 (1) These apartments, on the south side of the palace towards 
 tlic ^'arden, were occupied liy the Grand Daupliin, son of Louis 
 XIY., until his death, in 1 7 1 1 ; afterwards, hy the Duke de 
 Rerri, grandson of tliat monarch ; hy Louis the Daupliin, son ot 
 Louis XV., and father of Louis XVI. ; hy Louis XYl. and Marie 
 Antoinette; and Louis XVUI. The centre of the western front 
 was a vestibule in the time of Louis XIV., by which egress was 
 afforded to the gardens ; it was afterwards conveited into apart- 
 ments hy Louis XV., and now forms the beautiful gallery of 
 Louis Xlll. The aparlments on the northern side were those of 
 the amiable Count and Countess do Toulouse under Louis XIV., 
 and afterwards of the t’rincesscs, daughters ot Louis XV. Ihe 
 last rooms of this suite, near the vestibule ot lire chapel, were suc- 
 cessively tenanted by Madame do Montespan, under Louis Xl\., 
 and Madame de Pompadour, under his successor. The rooms 
 on this floor had been spoiled by alterations made under Louis 
 XV. ; Lo\iis Philippe restored them to their original state. 
 
570 
 
 EiWIllONS OF PAIUS. 
 
 to the north was a magnificent vestibule and staircase of marble 
 leading to the state apartments, in the time of Louis XlV. This 
 was taken down by his successor, hut the corresponding iisca- 
 lier de Marhre, on the southern side, with its vestibule, was 
 suiTered to remain. ’ 
 
 The Gardens and Park. — The former no longer contain the 
 trees planted by Louis XIV.; they were destroyed in 177 5 , by 
 order of Louis XVI. , and the garden was replanted. The 
 stranger is astonished not less by the variety and effect of the 
 jdantations and water than by the immense number and beauty 
 of the statues, groups, and vases.— The Terrasse du Chateau 
 has four fine bronze statues, after the antique, by the Kellers, 
 namely Silenus, Antinous, Apollo, and Bacchus. At the angles 
 are two beautiful vases in white marble, ornamented with bas- 
 leliefs. The Pai tevfe d hau contains two oblong basins, upon 
 the borders of which repose twenty-four magnificent groups, 
 in bronze, viz., eight nymphs, eight groups of children, and the 
 four principal rivers of France with their tributaries, namely, 
 the Garonne and Dordogne, the Seine and Marne, the Rhone 
 and Saone, and the Loire and Loiret. The groups of children 
 were cast by Aubry and Roger, and the other figures by the 
 Kellers. From the centre of each basin rise jets d’eau, in the 
 shape of a basket. At the ends of the terrace, opposite the 
 palace, are two fountains, adorned with groups of animals in 
 bronze, cast by Keller.— The Porlerre du extends in front 
 
 of the southern wing of the palace, and contains two circular 
 basins of white niarlde, surroundecl by grass-plots. This ter- 
 race is separated from the Parterre d’Eau by a parapet level 
 with the latter, upon which are placed twelve vases in bronze, 
 cast by DuA al. In the centre is a flight of white marble steps, 
 ornamented on each side by a sjibinx in white marble, sur- 
 mounted by a child in bronze. — The side nearest the palace 
 displays a bronze statue of Napoleon. — Here a court below the 
 level of the terrace, called La Petite Orangerie, is adorned 
 with the fine bronze equestrian statue of the lamented Duke 
 of Orleans, which stood in the centre of the court ol the Louvre, 
 and was taken down by order of the Provisional Government. 
 To the right of this is the Orangerie, situated below the Par- 
 terre du Midi, bounded on each side by afliahtof to3 steps, 
 leading to an iron gate on the road to Brest. The piers of 
 these gates are crowned by grou|)s in stone, and the green- 
 houses, of Tuscan architecture, constructed by Mansard, extend 
 on three sides. Here the orange and pomegranate-trees, &c., 
 are preserved during winter, and in summer are removed to 
 the walks of the Orangery, and other parts of the garden. (. 1 ) 
 (t) One of the orange-trees possesses an historical character. U 
 
VERSAILLES. 57 1 
 
 In the midst of the principal green-house, opposite the en- 
 trance, is a colossal statue of Louis XIV., by Desjardins. The 
 ground in front of the Orangery is divided into flower-beds, 
 with a basin and fountain in the centre, — The Parterre clu 
 Nord, approached by a flight of steps in white marble, is in 
 front of the northern wing of the palace, and is separated from 
 the Parterre d’Eau by a wall crowned with 14 bronze vases, 
 cast by Duval. At the angles near the steps are two fine vases 
 of Egyptian marble, by Rousseau, and on the sides of the steps 
 two statues copied from the antique, the one the Arrotino, cast 
 by Eognini, the other, Venus, by Coysevox. This terrace is 
 laid out in flower-beds, and ornamented with the two basins 
 des Couronnes and that de la Pyramide. The former derive 
 their name from two groups of tritons and Syrens supporting 
 crowns of laurel, from the midst of which issue columns of 
 water. The bassin de la Pyramide consists of four round 
 basins rising one above another in a pyramidal form. The 
 figures are in lead ; those of the first two basins are by 
 Lehongre, and those of the third by Girardon. Along the 
 shrubbery which bounds this parterre on the north are eight 
 statues in white marble. Below the bassin de la Pyra- 
 mide are the Baths of Diana, a small square basin, of which 
 one side is ornamented w'ith bas-reliefs in lead, by Girardon, 
 representing, in the centre, the nymphs of Diana at the bath, 
 and at each extremity a river. — the Allee d’Eau, in front of 
 the baths of Diana, leads to the two basins du Dragon, and de 
 Neptune, between two long and narrow grass-plots, in each 
 of which are seven groups of children in bronze, in the midst 
 of white marble basins separated by yewMrees. Each group 
 forms a sort of tripod supporting a second basin of Languedoc 
 marble, from the centre of which the water rises and overflows 
 into the basin below. On the sides of the avenue lie the groves 
 called Bosquet de I’Arc de Triomphe and des Trois Couronnes, 
 which possessed many works of art, but retain little of their 
 ancient magnificence. At the extremity of the avenue is a 
 semicircle formed by a thick hedge, in front of which are eight 
 groups similar to those in the avenue, forming a total numher 
 of 22. — The Bassin du Dragon derives its name from the dra- 
 gon or serpent Python, surrounded by four dolphins and a 
 similar numher of swans. The only part that now remains is 
 was contemporary with Francois 1., and formed part of tlie con- 
 fiscated property of the Conmitable de hourbon, wlience it is called 
 le Grand Bourbon. It was produced from seeds sown in 1421, 
 by Leonora of Castille, wife of Charles 111., King of Navarre, and 
 after flourishing for 437 years, does not seem to have approached 
 the end of its long career. Its branches are now encircled by 
 iron rings to support their weight, 
 
572 EiWlUONS OF PAKiS. S 
 
 the grand jef d’eau, that issues from the dragon’s mouth. I 
 
 The Bassin de Neptune is the most splendid of all the foim- i 
 tains at Versailles. Upon the upper border stand 22 large I 
 vases in lead, ornamented with has-reliefs. Against the side I 
 are three immense groups in lead. That in the centre by I 
 Adam senior, represents Neptune and Amphitrite seated ’in a i 
 vast shell, and accompanied by nymphs, tritons, and sea- • 
 monsters. The group on the east is Proteus, by Bouchardon • ^ 
 and that 011 the west. Ocean resting upon a sea-unicorn by ' 
 Lemome. At the angles two colossal dragons bearing Cupids 
 by Bouchardon, stand upon pedestals. From these five 
 groups issues a deluge of water, augmented by /efs d’eau rising 
 trom different parts of the basin, and from the vases. From 
 the Bassin de Neptune we return to the Parterre d’Eau by the 
 avenue des Trots Fon taines and des Ifs, which are in the same 
 line. The former is without ornament; the latter contains 14 
 white marble vases and 5 statues.— The Parterre de Latone 
 ties between the Parterre d’/sauandthe Alice du Tapis Vert. 
 
 On the right and left are declivities which form a bending road* 
 skirted by yew-trees and hounded by a tliick hedge, along which 
 are ranged statues and groups in marble. Between the two 
 (declivities just described, is a magnificent flight of steps leading 
 from the Parterre d’Eau to that de Latone, at the top of which 
 are two vases of white marble exhibiting the sun, the emblem 
 of Louis XIV. These steps lead to a semicircular terrace in 
 advance of the Bassin de Latone, and descend, by two smaller 
 flights, to a lower terrace on which this elegant basin is si- 
 tuated. These steps are ornamented with 12 beautiful vases 
 enriched with has-reliefs. The Bassin de Latone presents five 
 circular basins which rise one above another in the form of a 
 pyramid, surmounted by a group of Latona with Apollo and 
 Uiana, by Marsy. The goddess implores the vengeance of Ju- 
 piter against the peasants of Libya, who refused her water 
 and the peasants, already metamorphosed, some half, and 
 others entirely, into frogs or tortoises, are placed on the edae 
 of the different tablets, and throw forth water upon Latona in 
 every direction, thus forming liquid arches of the most beauti- 
 ful ettect. The tablets are of red marble, the group of white 
 marble, and the frogs and tortoises of lead. On- each side of 
 the pyramid, a column of water rises 30 feet and falls into the 
 basin. Beyond are two flower-gardens, each with a fountain 
 adorned with figures to correspond with that of Latona.— 
 the Alice du Tapis Vert derives its name from a lawn which 
 extends die whole length from the Parterre de Latone to the 
 Bassin d’Apollon. It is ornamented with I2 statues and 12 
 beautiful vases in white marble.— The Bassin d’Apollon, which, 
 
VEUSAILLES. 573 
 
 except that of Neptune, is the largest in the park, is situated 
 at the extremity of the Alice du Tapis Vert. The God of Day 
 is seen issuing from the waters in a chariot drawn by four 
 horses, and surrounded by tritons, dolphins, and sea-monsters. 
 Beyond is the grand canal, extending as far as St. Cyr (see 
 p. 53G), 18G feet wide by 4,G74 in length, with two cross 
 branches measuring together 3,000 feet in length. (1) We now 
 return towards the palace, taking the avenues on the right, 
 and come to the Bassins de V River et de I’Automne. That of 
 Winter represents Saturn surrounded by children, who play 
 among fish, crabs, and shells. This group is by Girardon, 
 That of Autumn, by Marsy, represents Bacchus reclining upon 
 grapes, and surrounded by infant satyrs. — The Jardin du Boi, 
 ilcar the Bassin d’Hiver, on the right, is laid out with much 
 taste and judgment. — In front of the entrance lies the Bassin 
 du Miroir; two columns of water rise from the midst. The 
 Bosquet de la Rcine is a delightful enclosed grove, which can 
 only be entered with a cicerone of the park, and contains a 
 great number of foreign trees and plants. In the centre is a 
 superb granite vase and four antique vessels in bronze. — The 
 Bosquet de la Salle de Bal, situated near the foregoing, is thus 
 called from balls formerly given there by the court in summer. 
 —The Quinconce du Midi, near the Salle de Bal, to the north- 
 west, is ornamented with eight termini, of which four stand 
 round a grass-plot in the centre, and the other four beneath 
 the chesnut trees. — The Bosquet de la Colonnade, at a short 
 distance from the Quinconce, is an enclosed grove, containing 
 a magnificent rotunda, composed of 32 marble columns and 
 pilasters of the Ionic order, united by arches supporting a 
 cornice with white marble vases. Under each arcade are 
 marble basins with fountains, and in the middle is a fine group 
 of the Rape of Proserpine, by Girardon.— 5assm du Prin- 
 temps et de I’Ete. We now cross the Alice du Tapis Vert, 
 and direct our course through the avenues on the side opposite. 
 The fountains of Spring and Summer are situated in the first 
 long avenue parallel to the Tapis Vert. Spring is represented 
 by Flora ; before her is a basket of flowers, and around are 
 children who hold garlands and wreaths. Summer appears 
 under the figure of Ceres, having a sickle in her hand, reclining 
 among wheat sheaves, and encircled by children. — The Bosquet 
 des Ddmes derives its name from two small rotundas crowned 
 with domes, which were demolished in 1820. In the centre 
 is an octagonal basin surrounded by a balustrade in marble. 
 In the top of the balustrade is a small channel, in which water 
 
 ( 1 ) Promenades in Loals may be enjoyed on this canal in sum- 
 mer, at 10 sous an hour per person, or 3fr. for a parly. 
 
74 
 
 ENVIKONS OP PARIS. 
 
 Hows and escapes from distance to distance from shells, hi 
 the centre an immense column of water rises to the height of 
 70 feet. Above and around is a terrace, Ijounded nv a second 
 balustrade of marble, of which the plinth and pilasters are 
 covered witli 44 l),as-reliefs of ancient and modern arms used 
 by the difierent nations of Europe, executed by Girardon Ma- 
 zaJine and Guerin. ^ In this enclosure are eight statues of white 
 marble.— /iassm d Encelade. A triangular space opposite the 
 Bosquet des Domes contains this fountain, which is circular and 
 surrounded by trees. The centre is occupied by a mass of rocks, 
 Jieneath which Enceladus the Giant is struggling for lil)erty 
 and still endeavouring to hurl rocks at heaven. The no-ure’ 
 from whose mouth a column of water rises to the height of oo 
 feet, was executed by Marsy. Water also issues from his hand 
 and from parts of the rocks. — The Qumconce du Nord cor- 
 lesponds with that of the south, and is adorned with a largo 
 vase and eight termini in white marble.— Bosquet des Bains 
 d Apollon. Upon leaving the Quinconce by the principal ave- 
 nue to the east, we see on the left an iron gate which leads to 
 an agreeable enclosed grove, in the midst of which is an enor- 
 mous rock, of the most picturesque form. Here a grotto leads to 
 the palace of Tethys, whose nymphs are serving Apollo at tiie 
 moment when he comes to rejjose in the arms of the goddess 
 Two are preparing to bathe his feet, a third is poui-ing water 
 into a basin ; and three others stand behind, one of whom braids 
 ms hair, and two others hold vessels with perfumes. Apollo 
 and the first three nymphs are chefs-d’oeuvre of Girardon • the 
 three others are by Regnaudin. On the right and left of ’this 
 magnificent group are two others, tlie former by Guerin the 
 latter by Marsy, representing the horses of the Sun watered by 
 tritons. These three groups in white marble form the most 
 perfect ensenMe of sculpture at Versail les. Sheet s and torrents 
 of water, which escape from different parts of the rock and 
 lorm a lake at its foot, add to the effect of the scene. This 
 fountain is said to have cost 1,500,000 fr.— In descending this 
 part of the garden, towards the west, we find the Bond Vert 
 a circular bowling-green, surrounded by a hedge, in wliieh 
 are four verdant niches, with statues after the antique. — The 
 Bassmdes hnfants, placed at the fourth angle of the Rond 
 \ert, IS decorated with a group of six children, in lead play- 
 ing in a small island, in the centre. Two others are swimming 
 m the water, while from the midst of the island a column of 
 water rises 48 feet.— Continuing from east to west, we enter 
 the Sal e ae lEtotle, so called from its three avenues, crossing 
 each other -teini/e VObelisque. The avenue that traversed 
 the etoile leads to this fountain. The water issues from reeds 
 
VEIISAILLES. 575 
 
 roimd a column of wafer in the centre, and falls into an upper 
 basin, from which it descends into another by a number of 
 steps forming as many cascades. The fountains are distin- 
 guished by the names of the Grandes and the Petites Eaux. 
 The latter play every other Sunday in summer, but tlie former 
 only on great occasions, always announced in Galignani’s Mes- 
 senger and in the French journals. 
 
 The Grandes Eaux present one of the finest sights imagin- 
 able, and cost from 8 to 10,000 fr. every time they play. ( 1 ) 
 As they do not all play at once, the visitor can follow them from 
 basin to basin up to that of Neptune, which is always the last. 
 On these occasions, the crowd attracted to Versailles is very 
 great ; but ample means of communication are afforded by the 
 two railroads, and first-class places (diligences) may be secured 
 lieforehand both for going and returning. Visitors should 
 not remain late, on account of the crowds at the railroads. 
 
 Le Grand Trianon is a villa, at the extremity of the Park 
 of Versailles, built by Louis XIV. for Mme. de Maintenon, 
 after the designs of J. H. Mansard. It is in the Italian style, 
 consisting of one story, and two wings, united by a long gal- 
 lery pierced by seven arcades, and fronted with magnificent 
 coupled Ionic columns and pilasters in Languedoc marble. 
 Tiie wings are ornamented in a similar manner. It is sepa- 
 rated from the avenue leading to it by a fosse in masonry. The 
 visitor is first introduced lo the peristyle, adorned with coupled 
 Ionic columns, which connects the two wings, and looks both 
 into the garden and court ( 2 .) This leads to a circular Corin- 
 thian hall, called the Antichambre des Grands Appnrtements, 
 adjoining which is the billiard-room, with portraits of Louis 
 XV. and'Marie Leczinskaof Poland in their youth, by Vanloo. 
 Next is the Salon de Reception, containing several paintings 
 and portraits by Vanloo andCoypel; then we enter the Salon 
 Particulier and the Salle de Malachite, with a circular basin of 
 malachite of extraordinary size, resting on a tripod of or-nioulu, 
 presented to Napoleon by the Emperor Alexander, on the occa- 
 sion of the treaty of Tilsit. It likewise contains portraits of 
 Louis XIV. and Louis XV., by Vanloo ; of the Dauphin, by 
 Natoire, and Louis XVI. , by Callet. The Galerie da Palais, 
 formerly the dining room of Louis Philippe, is entered next, 
 consisting of a gallery ICO feet in length, and full of remark- 
 able paintings by Roger, Thomas, Bidault, Johannot, Boucher, 
 
 (0 300,000 fr. were voted in is.'io for rcpairin" the reservoirs 
 and basins, wiiicii are now restored to all their former beanij'. 
 
 ( 2 ) The visitor must not expect to he led tlirongh tlie aparl- 
 nients exaclly in the same order as they are described liero, 
 since lids depends upon tlio eaprire of the man who shows tliem. 
 
57 6 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 &c. The centre is occupied by curious and costly taldes in 
 mosaic, with bronze statues, etc. In the Salon de Musique is 
 some rich and curious porcelain, besides paintings of mytholo- 
 gical subjects by Bon Boullongne, Coypcl, Lafosse, etc. Next 
 follows the chapel, constructed by Louis Philippe. The 
 wainscoting is of oak; there are a few good paintings, 
 and an admirable Assumption copied from Prudlion, in ena 
 mel, adorns the window. The late Marie d’OiTeans, Duchess 
 of Wurtemberg, was married in this chapel. The library, 
 adorned with paintings by Boucher and Robert, and the 
 apartments formerly reserved for the use of the Dukes of 
 Oi'leans and Nemours, and before them by Napoleon I., (ij 
 lead the visitor back to the billiard-room and peristyle already 
 mentioned. Here begin the apartments which were occupied 
 by the King and Queen. The Salon de la Heine contains two 
 portraits more of Louis XV. and Marie Leezinska. The Ca- 
 binet de la Heine leads to the Royal bed-room, most richly fur- 
 nished and gilt. The bed is the same that was used by the 
 Empress Josephine. The hangings and curtains of the alcove 
 are of crimson velvet, and a gorgeous balustrade separates it 
 from the chamber. Next comes the Salon des Glaces, an 
 elegant apartment lit by four windows, and adorned with a 
 profusion of mirrors ; it contains two excellent busts of the 
 Emperor and Kmpress. This suite is closed by the Cabinet de 
 Travail du Hoi, and his private library, with some minor 
 apartments in which four cradles, made for different heirs to 
 the French throne, have been recently placed. The decora- 
 tions of these apartments are richer than those of the first suite, 
 which are white and gold. The rooms formerly inhabited 
 by Madame Adelaide are no longer shown, being completely 
 unfurnished. The garden of the Grand Trianon is laid out 
 in a style similar to that of Versailles, and contains several 
 fine fountains, the chief of which is the cascade, in Carrara 
 marble. There are many excellent pieces of sculpture in va- 
 rious parts, and among them two portraits of Louis XV. and 
 Maria Leezinska, in allegorical groups, by Coustou. The 
 grounds in the rear are laid out in groves cut into labyrinths. 
 The Grand Trianon was always a favourite residence of I.ouis 
 XIV., Louis XV., and Louis XVI.; Napoleon also frequently 
 resided in it, and made a direct road from thence to St. Cloud. 
 The servants who show these apartments communicate many 
 interesting historical details, partly from their own experience, 
 and partly derived from local tradition. Visible clailj', Mon- 
 
 (i) Two of these rooms, including a sjdendid bed-cliambcr, 
 were intended for Her Majesty Queen Victoria, on the occasion ol 
 her expected vi.sit in Louis Pliilipps’s time. 
 
i 
 
 I VERSAILLES. 57 7 
 
 days excepted, from 11 to 5 in summer, and 11 to 4 in winter, 
 i On leaving this, the visitor will find, in an avenue to the 
 ri"ht, a building where the State Carriages are kept. These 
 fere visible for a small fee. On entering we sec seven 
 Carriages, arranged in two rows of three each, with one, 
 The most splendid of all, between. It was built in 1825 
 !for the coronation of Charles X., and has been re-gilt 
 [and newly decorated since 1853 for the use of the pre- 
 (sent Emperor. It is lined inside with crimson velvet embroi- 
 dered in gold ; the exterior displays a profusion of tasteful 
 carving and richness of decoration not to be surpassed. The 
 Turthemost of the right-hand row was used for the baptism of 
 the King of Rome, that of the Due de Bordeaux, the marriage 
 of the present Empress, and the baptism of the Prince Imperial 
 on the 14th of June, 1856. The carriage next to it was used 
 by Napoleon I. when elected First Consul; the remaining four 
 all belonged to Napoleon I. To the right on entering is the 
 sedan-chair of Marie Antoinette ; to the left, that of Maria Lec- 
 zinska. The presses against the lateral walls contain sets of 
 harness of the time of Napoleon I . There are also four sledges 
 which belonged to Louis XIV. A curious little Turkish car 
 will be seen here, constructed for the Sultan Abdul-Medjid 
 when a child. M. Thouvenel, during his embassy at Con- 
 stantinople, sent it over for the Prince Imperial. It was 
 drawn by goats, but the prince, who possessed a pair of 
 ponies, soon got tired of it, and it has now been deposited here. 
 
 The’ visitor, continuing along same avenue, will reach the 
 
 Petit Trianon, situated at one extremity of the garden of 
 the Grand Trianon. It forms a pavilion 72 feet square, and 
 consists of a ground floor and two stories. The first floor 
 consists of an antechamber, a dining-room (in which are the 
 Seasons, by Dejuinne) , a billiard-room, drawing-room (with 
 a bust of Louis XVI.; the subjects over the doors by Watteau), 
 a boudoir, a bed-room hung with blue silk, where may be 
 remarked two ostrich’s eggs adorned with miniatures by Bou- 
 cher and, lastly, the cabinet de toilette, containing a time- 
 piece of Louis XV. The Duchess of Orleans had the use of this 
 villa (1 .) The garden is laid out a VAnglaise ; it has a fine piece 
 of wafer, on the banks of which is a Swiss village, erected by 
 Marie Antoinette. In another part of the garden is a small 
 theatre, formerly used by ibe court, and which should be par- 
 ticularly asked for by the visitor, since it is well worth see- 
 ing, and often omitted to be shown. 
 
 fl) This mansion was built for Madame du Barry by Louis 
 XV who inhabited it when attacked by the contagious disease of 
 
 37 
 
57 8 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 The gardens of the Petit Trianon are visible daily, till dusk. 
 
 To visit the palace, apply by letter to M. I’Adjudant General 
 du Palais des Tuileries. 
 
 TheTowN OF Versailles is bisected by the Avenue de Paris 
 which divides it into theQiiartier of Notre Dame, to the north, 
 and of St. Louis to the south. On proceeding down the rue 
 Iloche the visitor will re.nark the Doric facade of the Pro- 
 testant church, where service is performed by a clergyman of 
 the Church of England, on Sundays at half-past one. Farther 
 on is the Place Hoche, in which stands a fine bronze statue 
 of General Hoche, a native of the town, who distinguished 
 himself in the troubles of La Vendee. The Church of Notre 
 Dame, built by Mansard in 1684, fronts the rue Hoche. Its 
 facade is Doric and Ionic. The interior is Doric, and cruci- 
 form, with aisles, and lateral chapels, in one of which is a 
 monament of St. Remy baptizing King Clovis. In a chapel 
 in the opposite aisle is a fine marble monument to the Comte 
 de Vergennes, a distinguished diplomatist under Louis XVI. In 
 tile rue Duplesssis, parallel to the rue Hoche, at the corner of 
 the Boulevard de la Reine, is the railway station of the Right 
 Bank (Rive Droite). Opposite stands the hospital, in which 
 the Chapel of St. Paul deserves attention. 
 
 The Lycee Imperial stands in the Route de St Cloud. 
 
 It was erected in 17 66 by Maria Leezinska ; ithas a good Ca- 
 binet of Natural History, and about 500 pupils. On this side 
 is also a villa formerly belonging to Madame Elizabeth, sister 
 of Louis XVI., and a small theatre adjoining the palace. 
 Nearly opposite to the theatre. No. 14, is a house with an 
 inscription stating that it once was the abode of Labruyere, 
 and that he died there in 1696. In the Quartier St. Louis, 
 the Route de Sceaux is crossed by the Avenue de la Mairie, 
 where the railway station of the left bank [Rive Gauche) 
 is situated . Distinct from this is the Western railway station, 
 which stands opposite the rue Horace Vernet ; and outside the 
 adjoining barrier, is the Bois de la Fontaine des Nouettes, 
 with shady walks. The Bois de Satory, outside the Barriere 
 St. Martin, is also a charming public walk. This wood skirts 
 the elevated plateau called the Plaine de Satory, where 
 races take place in June. 
 
 At the intersection of the rue Royale and rue d’Anjou 
 is a monument to the Abbe de I’fipee, the benefactor of the 
 deaf and dumb. The rue d’Anjou leads to the Cathedral of 
 
 wliic.li he dioil. Louis XVI. presented it fo the queen, under ' 
 whos:; dii'e.f.liou llio "arden.s were laid out. Queen Victoria vi.siled j 
 t)olh lii'! Triauous on liie 2tst of Au;!:., I855, and partook of a 
 splendid lunch at the Sw'ss village or llameiu. 
 
VERSAILLES. 579 
 
 St. Louis, built by the last of the Mansards in 1743, of Doric 
 and Corinthian architecture. The interior is cruciform, with 
 a nave, and aisles surrounding both nave and choir. In the 
 third chapel to the right on entering there is a splendid 
 marble group, by Pradier, representing Religion supporting 
 the Due de Berry in his last moments, when struck by the 
 hand of the assassin Louvel. The pedestal is charged with 
 bas-reliefs, and the motto “ Grace pour Phoinme,” the last 
 words the Duke had spoken. This monument was erected 
 to his memory by the town of Versailles, his birth-place. 
 In the transept and chapels there are an Adoration of the 
 Shepherds, by Restout ; a St. John the Baptist, by Latreille ; 
 St. Louis, by Lemoine ; the Virgin in the Temple, by Ver- 
 mont ; Christ walking on the waves, by Fauchet ; St. Vincent 
 dePaule, by Heim; and the conversion of Clovis, by Delaval. 
 Some of the confessionals are beautifully carved. The rue 
 de rOrangerie leads to the Grand Commun, already men- 
 tioned (see p. 555), near which is the Public Library, in the 
 building formerly called the Hdtel des Affaires Etrangeres. 
 It contains nearly 60,000 volumes, and is open daily from 
 1 1 to 4, except Sundays. To the library is attached a small 
 museum. 
 
 In the rue du Jeu de Paume, is the famous Tennis-court 
 celebrated for the oath taken by the National Assembly, which 
 was the signal of the first revolution. It is much frequented 
 by amateurs, and is worthy of a visit, especially by good 
 judges of the game. South of the town and the palace is 
 a large sheet of water, called Piece des Suisses, from its having 
 been formed by the Swiss guards of Louis XIV. It is 2,100 
 feet in length by 7 20 in breadth. To the east of this is 
 the potager, or fruit and kitchen garden, of the palace, 28 
 acres in extent, and formed into divisions by terraces and walls. 
 Contiguous to the potager is the beautiful and picturesque Eng- 
 lish garden of the Hotel de Tellier, formed by the Count de 
 Provence, afterwards Louis XVIII., but now belonging to a 
 private individual. A considerable number of foreigners, in- 
 cluding many English families, have chosen Versailles’ for 
 their residence. The air is salubrious, but colder than that 
 of Paris. The streets are wide and clean, and in the sum- 
 mer nothing can be more delightful than its numerous 
 walks. It possesses a synagogue, a few manufactories, and 
 has three annual fairs. Not far from Versailles, at about an 
 hour’s drive along the Route de Chevreuse, are the remains 
 of tllf Once celebrated Abbey of Porl-lloijal d< s Champs ( 1 ). 
 
 ( 1 ) This abbey of RenediclUie nuns first acquired some renown 
 from a reform of the rules of the house, in consequence of some 
 
580 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 Part of the buildings are still inhabited. The country around 
 is extremely picturesque. The Emperor has a domain near 
 Versailles, called La Menagerie, which has now been specially 
 devoted to the rearing of the best French breeds of saddle and 
 carriage horses. It is under the direction of General Fleury. 
 
 VINCENNES — A commune of some extent situated to the 
 east of Paris, a mile and a half from the Place du Trone, 
 celebrated for its chateau and forest, which have existed from 
 a very early date. It may be most conveniently reached by 
 the new railway. Place de Bastille ; or by the omnibus which 
 starts from the square of the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers 
 (Seep. 256.) In 1137 Louis le Jeune built a residence here, 
 and more than a century later St. Louis frequently visited it, 
 and administered justice under an oak in the forest. To com- 
 memorate the spot where this tree stood, a stone pyramid has 
 been erected in the centre of a circular rendez-vous de chasse. 
 
 In 1183 Philip Augustus enclosed the forest with a wall, and 
 enlarged the royal residence, where Louis le Hutin and Charles 
 le Bel are said to have subsequently ended their days. Phi- 
 lippede Valois having in 1333, demolished the ancientbuilding, 
 laid the foundations of the present chateau. Its form is that 
 of a parallelogram of 1 ,200 feet in length, and 672 in breadth, 
 and, independent of the Donjon, which is an interior fort 
 or prison, was flanked with nine square towers, which all 
 existed, though in a dilapidated condition, until 1818, when, 
 having become the chief arsenal of Paris, it was considered 
 necessary to demolish them all, except one. The large rec- 
 angular tower of the entrance, called Tour Principale, and 
 115 feet high, now repaired, and the Donjon still remain 
 intact. The whole fortress was enclosed by high loop-holed 
 walls of prodigious strength (which have now given place to 
 bomb-proof casemated barracks), and surrounded by a ditch 
 40 feet deep and 8o in breadth. 
 
 To the right stands the celebrated 
 
 Donjon . — ’This very remarkable structure forms a square 
 with four towers at its angles. There are four lofty stories 
 
 alleged miraculous interference. In 1626 the number of its in- 
 mates increased so considerably that a part of them had to be 
 transferred to Paris, where a second convent of Port Royal was 
 established near the Rue St. Jacques (see p. 135.) Celebrated 
 literary characters, and even artists, soon resorted to the abbey , 
 to pass their lives there in retirement ; among them were Le- 
 maistre de Sacy, Nicole, Pascal, and Ph. de Champagne. The 
 Jesuits, viewing the educational tendencies of the convent with 
 distrust, obtained a decree for its suppression in 1709, but the 
 nuns had to be forced out by the military. 
 
VINCENNES. 581 
 
 ibove the ground-floor, each composed of one spacious apart- 
 ment in the centre 30 feet square, and four smaller rooms in 
 ithe corner towers. All have vaulted roofs ; that of the larger 
 apartment produces a striking effect by the Gothic arch- 
 work being supported by a column in the centre. The walls 
 of this building are 17 feet in thickness and from the total 
 absence of wood in its construction it is quite incombustible. 
 The visitor will observe the immense thickness and solidity of 
 the double doors sheathed with iron and fastened with strong 
 bolts and locks, also the extreme narrowness of the winding 
 stairs, which scarcely allow a person to pass another; 242 
 steps lead to the platform, commanding a magnificent view 
 of the forest and adjacent villages. In 1420 Henry V. of 
 England, being proclaimed king of France, took up his resi- 
 dence and died here, after a brief reign of two years. This 
 fortress passed from the French to the English and vice versd 
 several times. In 1431 Henry VI. of England, being crowned 
 king of France, resided in the Donjon, but in the following 
 year Jacques de Chabannes drove out the English, who re- 
 took it in 1434, and retained it until the Duke of Bourbon 
 obtained possession of it by the treachery of some of the 
 Scottish Guards. Up to the time of Louis XI. the Donjon was 
 a royal residence ; under his reign it became a state prison, 
 and has continued so. State prisoners whose otfences did not 
 call for peculiar severity were confined in the towers at each 
 angle, but the heart sickens at the tortures here inflicted on the 
 unfortunate beings in the vaults below. The room where tor- 
 tures were applied, called the Salle de la Question, is on the 
 ground-floor, but in total darkness. Here is still seen a hole cut 
 in the stone wall, just large enough to receive the form of a 
 man, which was the bed of the victim ; strong bolts in the wall 
 that still remain, with heavy iron chains, secured him to the 
 spot, and kept his limbs motionless during the application of 
 the Question.” Many pages might be filled with the names 
 of the prisoners sent here by letlres de cachet. (1) 
 
 (i) The following is a list of the principal prisoners confined 
 here, in chronological order: — 1315, Enguerrand de Marigny, 
 Supermtehdent of Finances under Louis X.— 1 574, Henry IV., 
 then King of Navarre, and the Due d’Alen^on. — I6i7, the Prince 
 of CondcL-_j62 6, Marshal d’Ornano, the natural son of Henry IV.; 
 Marie Louigg ^e Gonzague, daughter of the Duke de Nevers. — 
 1643, the Due de Beaufort. — 4650, the Princes of Conde and 
 Conti, and (he Due de Longueville.— 1652, Cardinal de Betz. — 
 1C6ij Njcpiiis Fouquet. — 1717, the Marquises de Chatillon, dePo- 
 lignac, de Clermont. — 1748, Prince Edward, the eldest son of the 
 Pretender, previous to his being expelled from the kingdom for 
 plotting against the English Government.— 1777, the Comte de 
 
582 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 La Sainte Chapelle or church of the fort, a fine specimen 
 of the ifith century, and one of the latest of the pointed style 
 in France, stands opposite. It has a square buttressed tower 
 to the north, with an octangular turret at one of its corners, 
 reaching to the bottom, and crowned with a spire surmounted 
 by a crescent, the emblem of Diane de Poitiers, the mistress of 
 Henry II. This emblem wasforraerly repeated on all the spires 
 and pinnacles, instead of the cross. The front, which has now 
 been completely repaired, consists of a gable decorated with 
 splendid tracery, and flanked with two crocheted spires. The 
 interior strongly reminds one of the style of the Sainte Cha- 
 pelle, and consists of a single nave. It is remarkable for its 
 stained glass windows, executed by Jean Cousin, in which, as 
 well as on the ceiling, the device of Henry II., the letter II, and 
 the crescent are interlaced. The infatuated monarch also had 
 Diane’s portrait painted in oneof the windows, perfectly naked, 
 in the midst of celestial beings; it is said to be a faithful like- 
 ness. It is on the window to the left, and the figure may be 
 easily distinguished at the bottom of the tableau, by the blue 
 ribbons in her hair. The altar-table, of white marble, is 
 Gothic, and was a gift of Louis XVIII. Under it there is a 
 fine model of the Cathedral ol Basle. This church contains a 
 monument to the unfortunate Duke d'Enghien, who was shot 
 here March 20th, 1804. The Prince was led down to the 
 ditch at the south-east angle of the fortress, where, his 
 grave being already dug, he was executed. (1) His remains 
 are contained in a bronze sarcophagus ; above is a statue of the 
 duke supported by Religion ; below is France in tears for her 
 loss, and a figure of Vengeance invoking divine justice. 
 
 On the right and left sides of the court are two large 
 buildings, commenced by order of Marie de Medicis, and 
 finished in the early part of the reign of Louis XIV., which 
 were splendidly fitted up for the residence of the royal 
 family. A drawbridge across the ditch, at the back of the 
 Pavilion duRoi, gave access to beautiful and extensive gar- 
 dens ornamented with statues and fountains. Here Louis XIV. 
 took up his residence previous to the construction of Ver- 
 sailles, and here in these gardens, whilst listening in private to 
 the conversation of some ladies in an alcove, he discovered the 
 secret of the tender passion of Mile, de la Valliere for him. 
 
 Mirabeau. — 1 804, the Due d’Enghien.— i8i i , the Bishops of Gand, 
 Tournay, and Troyes.— i S30, the ex-minislers de Polignac, de 
 Peyronnel, de Chantelauze, and Guernon-Ranville.- 1 848 , the 
 conspirators of May, and many of the insurgents of June. 
 
 ( 1 ) His body was disinterred in i8i6, and placed under the 
 magnificent monument, alluded to, executed by Desen ne. 
 
VINCENNES. 
 
 583 
 
 The Pavilion du Roi is now converted into barracks. In 
 the vestibule the visitor will see the statue of Marshal 
 Daumesnil, by fimile Thomas. Bcliir.d tlie chapel are the 
 workshops of the arsenal, and to the left is the 
 Armoury , — containing a vast store of arms, all arranged 
 with great symmetry, and exhibiting many fanciful de- 
 vices. The staircase is flanked by columns, with theii' pe- 
 Tlestalsand capitals complete, all formed with musket-barrels, 
 pistols, bayonets, etc., very ingeniously combined for the pur- 
 pose. Fronting the staircase is a sort of sun, composed in a 
 similar manner ; above this are seen the initials L.N., and tl;e 
 Eagle. The armoury consists of a long gallery, filled with 
 modern weapons of every kind arranged in racks ; from the 
 ceiling hang imitations of lustres, all obtained as before from 
 combinations of swords, jnstols, etc. This gallery contains 
 upwards of 1 55,000 muskets, and an immense store of swoi ds, 
 pistols, pikes, etc. ; and at the furthest end is a trophy formecl 
 of the colours of the Garde Mobile of 1 848, with an inscription 
 recording their bravery in the insurrection of June. In 
 the centre of the trophy is the bust of Napoleon III., 
 and in another room there is the bust of the first Emperor 
 The new fort has barracks for 2 regiments of artillery and 
 stabling for 1250 horses. In each corner of the fort at the 
 eastern extremity is a powder magazine. An immense park of 
 artillery' is kept in constant readiness. The garrison of Vin- 
 cennes is composed of two regiments of artillery, 1 regiment 
 of infantry, i battalion of ritkmen (Chasseurs de Vincennes), 
 ,and some companies of sappers and miners. The guns taken 
 from the Austrians in 1859 are preserved here. The Chateau 
 is visible everyday but the armoury on Saturdays only, both 
 from 1 2 to 4 , and with tickets to be obtained by writing to 
 M. le Minisfre de la Guerre. 
 
 On leaving the Chateau, the visitor soon arrives at the 
 Polyyonc, a vast space where mounds of earth are erected as 
 targets for artillery practice. This is the spot set apart for the 
 Ecole de tir, where officers from all the regiments are sent to 
 be instructed in the use of the improved fire-arms. From 
 June to September the artillery practise firing at the butt .'{ 
 times a-week, generally the Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. 
 These exercises commence at 6 o’clock, and continue till 9, 
 and attract many visitors from Paris. 
 
 East of the Polygone, the stranger will perceive the 
 Tir National Franeais which takes place annually in the 
 nionlli <)f August. It is a vast shooting-gallery, with 58 targets 
 in the rear, visible through wooden partitions pierced with 
 square openings. This institution, now declared permanent 
 
584 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 by the Minister of War, is under the control of a committee. I 
 At the last T ir (shooting match) competitors attended from all ; 
 parts of Europe, the French, Swiss, and Belgians predomi- ! 
 Dating, though laurels were reaped also by English competi- i 
 tors. Every amateur pays from 5 to 2*0 francs for every : 
 series of five shots, according to the prize for which he com- i 
 petes. The net produce is divided into prizes of from 40 to i 
 6,000 fr., awarded to the most successful shots, with every ! 
 kind of weapon, including the bow and cross-bow. The dis- : 
 tances vary from 100 to 300 metres. 
 
 Further on, on the same side, is the Imperial 
 
 Model Farm, — intended, as its name denotes, for improve- i 
 ments in farming, respecting which, persons interested in the ^ 
 subject may here glean much valuable information. A visit 
 to the Imperial dairy should not be neglected, for although no 
 attempt is made in luxury or magnificence, as isthecasewith 
 some “ show dairies'’ in England, yet the cleanliness ahd i 
 excellent arrangements observed here are the more remarkable, 
 as they can be carried into practical effect by any farmer with j 
 little or no expense. Butter and milk may be had here on j 
 the spot for a trifle ; 120 cows are kept here. M. Guerin 4 
 Meneville has a piece of ground allotted to him iiere for ex- i 
 periments in the rearing of Japanese and other new and hardy i 
 breeds of silkworms. 
 
 Further on, there is the Bedoubt de la Faisanderie, 
 where a normal gymnastic school for the army is established 
 under the direction of a commandant and three professors. 
 This institution receives a contingent of about 150 sub-officers, 
 corporals and soldiers who are changed every six months, 
 at the end of which period a public examination takes place, 
 and prizes are awarded to those who most distinguish them- 
 selves ; the pupils then return to their respective regiments and 
 act as instructors to their comrades. A certain proportion of 
 officers are also added to the above number. 
 
 To the left of the Polygone, a new race-course has been 
 cleared by a society, on the same plan as that of the Bois de 
 Boulogne. It is 3,500 meti’es in circumference. The stands 
 erected on the western side, consist of two wings of 100 
 metres each, with the Imperial pavilion between. They can 
 accommodate 3,500 spectators. Adjoining is the 
 
 Parc de lincennes. — This, but lately neglected wood, 
 has now undergone such extensive improvements as to render it 
 a most beautiful place of resort and recreation to the inhabi- 
 tants of the eastern quarters of Paris. In 1102 the forest of 
 Vincennes was surrounded with ditches. Louis VII. caused it 
 to be enclosed with walls on the Paris side, and built a small 
 
VINCENNES. 585 
 
 t ower at its entrance called La tourelle de St. Mande, from 
 the village of that name. In 1183 Philip Augustus continued 
 the wall, and stocked the forest with deer sent to him by Henry 
 II. of England. At a later period St. Louis built the walls 
 along the Marne. In 1 731 Louis XV. caused the old and decayed 
 trees to be cut down, and the wood to be replanted, for the 
 I benefit of the Parisians, and a pyramid, now removed, was 
 erected to commemorate the event. Some fine oaks, several 
 centuries old, still remain, the descendants of those under 
 which King Louis delivered justice. In that part of the Park 
 called Les Minimes, a convent was erected by Louis VII., of 
 which now no vestige remains. The Park is intersected by 
 several fine carriage roads, and a number of shady and intricate 
 gravel walks. Here one often meets with a quiet knc', of 
 ladies and their daughters plying the needle in the balmy sum- 
 mer air, or a gay pic-nic party ensconced in some sequestered 
 spot under the trees. Following, and occasionally crossing a 
 rivulet spanned by rustic bridges, we arrive at the vast artifi- 
 cial Lac des Minimes, due to the present Emperor’s munifi- 
 cence. It covers a surface of 8o,o0o square metres, and has 
 a large island in the centre, accessible by boats. This lake is 
 fed by a sities of turbines at St. Maur, which, by the fall of 
 the Marne, daily raise a mass of 5,000 cubic metres of water 
 to a height of 44 metres. The Park has now been increased 
 by a large extent of ground, making its present area 876 hec- 
 tares, 370 of which are forest ground; 375, meadows and 
 grass-plots, 55 planted with ornamental shrubs, 20 of water, 
 and 56 of roads and paths. A new lake has been formed in 
 the plains of Charenton ; on the Montreuil and St. Mande side, 
 the Park is skirted with pretty villas and Swiss chalets. 
 
 Before leaving this spot, either by returning to Vincennes or 
 by taking a ticket at the railway station of St. Mande, the 
 visitor may strike into the Route de St? Mande and visit the 
 
 Asile Imperial des Invalides Civils, commonly called 
 the Asile de Vincennes, opened in i857 for the recep- 
 tion of sick workmen. The buildings, occupying a space 
 of 42 acres, comprise a large entrance-court laid out as a 
 garden, called the Cour d’Honneur, and eight inner courts. 
 They are approached through a wide avenue commencing from 
 the Route de St. Mande, and branching out in a semi-circle on 
 nearing the Cour d’Honneur. The extreme wings flanking the 
 court have porticos, and contain infirmaries and offices. A 
 c’rcular fountain occupies the centre of the court. The front 
 con§i§ts of a central pavilion of the Doric order surmounted by 
 a hipped roof, and flanked by two wings, composed as fol- 
 lows ; On the ground floor, two refectories, right and left, with 
 
586 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 a chapel between ; on the upper stoiy two promenoirs, or vast 
 halls for taking exercise in bad weather, and a handsome li- 
 brary-room of the Corinthian order between. The rest of the 
 buildings comprise infirmaries with three beds each store- 
 roorns, a laundry, baths, kitchens, and workshops for lock- 
 smiths, joiners, turners, tailors and shoemakers. The establish- 
 ment will accommodate 600 patients ; none but convalescent 
 patients are admitted ; the internal organization is the same 
 as that of the Asile du Vesinet, described at p. 64 6 Work- 
 men who have been temporarily disabled in the arsenals of 
 the btate, or m the execution of public works, are admitted 
 here free of expense ; others may be admitted on payment of 
 tw .' francs a-day, or, if unable to pay that sum, for less on 
 producing a certificate of indigence. Mutual Benefit Societies 
 and private establishments employing a large number of work- 
 men may obtain the right of sending patients there on pay- 
 ment of a moderate annual subscription. If the convalescent 
 workman is strong enough, he is admitted to one of the 
 workshops, where he is paid in proportion to what he does, 
 and he may leave off as soon as he pleases, lie may also keep 
 the gardens in order, which is considered a pastime and 
 therelore not remunerated. This hospital has received as 
 many as 400 convalescent workmen in the course of a month. 
 The donations it has received from private persons since its 
 inauguration amount at present to 55,381 fr., exclusive of 16 
 houses for workmen and their families, built by the Emperor 
 on the Boulevard Mazas (see p. 28o), and now presented to 
 the establishment by his Majesty. The establishment keeps 
 cows, poultry, and pigs, all fed upon the produce of the 
 grounds annexed to the asylum. Visible on Mondays, Thurs- 
 days and Sundays, from 12 to 4. 
 
 Between this and Vincennes, on the road facing the Porte 
 de la Tourelle, stands the new Military Hospital, inaugurated 
 on the 1st June, 1858. It occupies a vast rectangle of 
 60,000 square metres, 4,350 of which are occupied by the 
 buildings, which enclose it on three sides; the fourth is 
 formed by a glazed gallery, affording a view of the wood of 
 Vincennes, and intended as a place of exercise for the conva- 
 lescents. The court is laid out as a garden, and the building, 
 which contains 600 beds, is ventilated on a new principle. 
 
 Nearly opposite to the hospital there is a small new chapel, 
 elected in 1858, with an inscription to the following effect: 
 
 T1i 6 Enij)r<?s8 Eiigeiiic, in & proninnsdc in thn Bois dc Vincpnnps iiAvinc 
 passed Before an image of Ihe Virgin, made a " ow iLt if God 
 widi a son she would erect a chapel in her honour.” 
 
PART V. 
 
 AAIBASSADORS, CONSULS. 
 
 (Hours of business about H to t.) 
 Austria, ambassador, ioi,rue 
 de Crenelle St. Germain. 
 
 Baden, minister plenipoten- 
 tiary, 62, rue Blanche. 
 
 Bavaria, charge d’affaires, 
 9, Avenue de la Heine Hortense. 
 
 Belgium, minister plenipoten- 
 tiary, 153, Faub. St. Honor6. 
 
 Brazil, charge d’affaires, 5, 
 rue d’Albe. 
 
 Denmark, ministerplenipoten- 
 tiary, 37 , rue de I’Universite. 
 
 Free Towns, minister, 13, rue 
 d’Aguesseau. 
 
 Great Britain, ambassador 
 extraordinary and minister ple- 
 nipotentiary, 39, Faubourg St. 
 Honors. — Consul, same address. 
 
 Greece, charge d’affaires, no, 
 rue de Richelieu. 
 
 Hesse Darmstadt, 29, rue de 
 Luxembourg. 
 
 Holland, minister plenipoten- 
 tiary, 15, rue de Presbourg. 
 
 Italy, ambassador, 9, Avenue 
 des Champs-Elysiies. 
 
 Mexico, 26, Avenue des 
 Champs-Elys6es. 
 
 Nassau, charg6 d’affaires, i5, 
 rue de Presbourg. 
 
 Portugal, charg 6 d’affaires, 
 
 1 2 , rue d’Astorg.— Consul, same 
 address. 
 
 Prussia, ambassador, 78 , rue 
 de Lille. 
 
 Roman States, ambassador, 
 102 , rue St. Dominique. 
 
 Russia, ambassador, 79, r. de 
 Crenelle St. G. — Consul, same. 
 
 Saxony, minister plenipoten- 
 tiary, 2 9, rue de Courcellcs. 
 
 Spain, ambassador, 25 , Qua! 
 d’Orsay.— Consul, 33, rue de 
 I’Oratoire du Roule. 
 
 Sweden, minister plenipoten- 
 tiary, 5i, Avenue Montaigne. 
 
 Switzerland, charge d’af- 
 faires, 3 , rue Blanche. 
 
 United States, minister ple- 
 nipotentiary, 5, rue du Centre. 
 — Consul, 79 , rue de Richelieu. 
 
 Wurtemberg, minister pleni- 
 potentiary, 6, rue de Presbourg. 
 
 Saxe Weimar, consul, 82 , rue 
 Picpus. 
 
 Turkey, ambassador, 10, rue 
 de Presbourg. — Consul, 44, rue 
 de la Victoire. 
 
 PARIS BANKERS. 
 Ardoin and Co., 44 , rue de la 
 Chaussee d’Antin. 
 
 John Arthur and Co., 10, 
 rue Castiglione. 
 
 Bechet, De Thomas and Co. 
 17, Boulevard Poissonnifere. 
 
 Bischoffsheim, Goldschmidt, 
 26, rue de la Chaussee d’Antin. 
 Blount, 3, rue de la Paix. 
 Callaghan (Luc and Co.), 40, 
 rue Neuve des Mathurins. 
 
 De lisle (widow Th.) and Co., 
 17, rue Pasquier. 
 
 Ferr^re LAFFiTTE, 3 ,r.Laffilte 
 Fould, 22, rue Berg^re. 
 
 Gil (Pedro),6,b.des Capucines. 
 Hentsch-Lutscher and Co., 
 20 , rue Lepeletier. 
 
 Hottinguer, 17 , rue Bergere. 
 Laffitte (Charles), 48 bis, rue 
 Basse du Rempart. 
 
 Lehideux and Co., 16 , rue 
 de la Banque. 
 
 Liierbette, Kane, and Co., 8, 
 Place de la Bourse. 
 
 Mallet (Frferes) and Co., 37, 
 rue d’Anjou St. Honors. 
 
 Marcuard (Adolphe) and Co., 
 
 5, rue M6nars. 
 
 Munroe, 7, rue Scribe. 
 Mussard, Audeoud and Co,, 
 
 6, rue Hal6vy. 
 
588 DIRECTORY. 
 
 Oppermann, i5,r.St. Georges. 
 
 PiLLET-WiLL and Co., 14, rue 
 Moncey. 
 
 Rothschild, 21 , rue Laffltte. 
 
 Rocgemont de Lowenberg, 
 7, rue SI. Lazare. 
 
 Van den Broek Brothers&Co., 
 60, rue de la Chaussee d’Antin. 
 
 Vernes, 20 , rue Drouot. 
 
 Zellweger and Co., 29, rue de 
 Provence. 
 
 ATTORlVEyS, SOLICITORS. 
 
 Castaignet, Attorney, 28 , rue 
 Louis le Grand. 
 
 Kennerley Hall, 4 t, rue de 
 I’Echiquier. 
 
 Maugham, 54 , fbg. St. Honors. 
 
 Mourilyan, Solicitor, 370, rue 
 St. Honors. 
 
 Sampson, 7, rue Mondovi. 
 
 NOTARIES. 
 
 St. Gilles, 2, rue de Choiseul. 
 
 ENGLISH CLERGYMEN. 
 
 Rev. J. C. Cox, M.A., Chaplain 
 to the British Embassy, 25 , rue 
 Royale. 
 
 Rev. G. G. Gardiner, 10 bis, 
 Avenue Marboeuf. 
 
 Rev. Gurney, 46, Bll. Maillot. 
 
 Rev. E. Forbes, 229, Faubourg 
 St. Honors. 
 
 AMERICAN CLERGYMEN. 
 
 Rev. Lamson, 61, r. Pi5pini6re. 
 
 Rev. Dr. M’Clintock, 3 , rue de 
 la Plaine, aiix Ternes. 
 
 AGENTS. 
 
 John Arthur and Co., 10, rue 
 Castiglione. 
 
 Hartwick, 127, bvd. Magenta. 
 
 George Smith, 30 , Faubourg 
 St. Honors, House and General 
 Agent. Agent to the American 
 Consulate. Funerals conducted 
 in Paris or conveyed abroad ; 
 also manager of the Paris 
 Courier Society. 
 
 Sprent, 4, rue de la Ferme. 
 
 Webb, 220 , rue de Rivoli. 
 
 FURNISHED HOTELS. 
 Coriiages, Horses, etc., may Be had; 
 
 Bedford, 4 6, rue Pasquier. 
 
 Brighton, 24 8, rue de Bivoli. 
 
 Bristol, 5, Place Vend&me. 
 (First-rate Family Hotel.) 
 
 Deux Mondes (des), s, rue 
 d’Antin, between the Tuileries 
 and the Boulevards. 
 
 First-rate and excellent in every 
 respect. ‘ 
 
 Grand Hotel, 12 , Boulevard 
 des Capucines. 
 
 Grande Bretagne (de la), 44 , 
 rue Caumarlin. 
 
 Hollande, 16, rue de laPaix. 
 
 Lille et Albion, 223, rue 
 St. Honore. 
 
 A very excellent and spacious Hotel. 
 
 Liverpool, 10, rue Castiglione. 
 
 Londres, 5 , rue Castiglione. 
 
 Louvre, 166, 168, rue Rivoli. 
 
 Meurice, 228, rue de Rivoli. 
 
 No exertion spared to merit pa- 
 tronage. The great object in view is to 
 give satisfaction by rendering the Ho- 
 tel as comfortable as home. 
 
 Montaigne, 5, rue Montaigne. 
 
 Rhin, 4 , Place VendSme. 
 
 Rivoli, 202, rue de Rivoli. 
 
 VouiLLEMONT, 4 5 , lue Boissy 
 d’Anglas. 
 
 Wagram, 206 , rue de Rivoli. 
 
 AVindsor, 226, rqe de Rivoli. 
 
 VERSAILLES. 
 
 Hotel du Petit-Vatel, rue des 
 Rdservoirs, 26 , near the Park. 
 
 Hotel des Reservoirs. 
 
 Hotel de France. 
 
 PASS Y.— Family Boarding 
 House. Kept by M. and Mme. 
 Delcros, 15 & 17, rueDesbordes- 
 Valmore (Parc Guichard). Fur- 
 nished apartments and rooms. 
 Table d’hote. Fine Garden. 
 Terms moderate. Different om- 
 nibuses and railway to Paris. 
 English spoken. 
 
 RESTAURANTS AND CAFES. 
 
 At those marked by a * breakfasts 
 and dinners may be had ; at all the 
 others breakfasts, or evening refresh- 
 ments only. 
 
 "Richard, Salon Frangais, 4 37 , 
 Palais Royal, Galei-ie Valois. 
 Dinners, 2 fr. ; Breakfasts, i fr. 25 c. 
 
 * F reres Provengaux, Pal . Royal . 
 
 Cafede la Botonde, Palais Royal. 
 
DIRECTORY. 509 
 
 Cafe d' Orleans, Palais Royal. 
 
 Cafe de la Galerie d'Orleans, 
 Palais Royal. 
 
 t'a/'e'rfwiouure, 151, r.St.Honore 
 
 Cafe Regence, i 6 i,r. St. Honore. 
 
 Cafe de VUnioers, rue Rohan. 
 
 Cafe de la Paix, 184 , r. Rivoli. 
 
 *Cafe Voisin, 26 1 r. St. Honore. 
 
 Cafe Boussard,i 0 6 , r . S t . H 0 n ore . 
 
 Cafe Concorde, 1, rue Mondovl. 
 
 Cafe Cotte, 14 , rue Royale. 
 
 Cafe Marignan, 35 , Champs- 
 Elys^es. 
 
 Brasserie Anglaise, 99 , Champs- 
 ElysSes. 
 
 Cafe de Londres, rue Duphot. 
 
 Cafe Restaurant de la Paix, 
 boulevard des Capucines. 
 
 *Cafe Foy, corner of boule- 
 vards and r. Chauss^e d’Antin. 
 
 * Leclerc, 9 , rue Castiglione. 
 
 Cafe du Helder, 29 bis, boule- 
 vard des Italiens. 
 
 Cafe Tortoni, 22 ,boul. Italiens. 
 
 * Cafe Anglais, boulev. Italiens. 
 CafeLemaire, 4 1 , rue Lepelletier. 
 
 * Peters, 27, Passage des 
 Princes. 
 
 Cafe Choiseuil, 23 , rue Neuve 
 St. Augustin. 
 
 Cafe Veron, boul. Montmartre. 
 
 Cafe de la Bourse, on the Place. 
 
 Cafedu Musee, boul. St. Michel, 
 corner of boulevard St. Germain. 
 
 Cafe Parisien,^ 6 , ruede Bondi. 
 
 Cafe du Danemark, 196, rue 
 St. Honord. 
 
 Cafede la Paste, 98 , r. de Rivoli. 
 
 * Cafe Desmares, 25, r. de I’Uni- 
 versit( 5 , corner of rue du Bac. 
 
 Cafe Procope, ruede I’Ancienne 
 Comedie. 
 
 Cafe Voltaire, Place de I’Oddon. 
 
 ENGLISH PASTRY-COOKS. 
 
 Colombia, 8 , rue Luxembourg. 
 
 Guerre, 234, rue de Rivoli. 
 
 ENGLISH RESTAURANTS. 
 
 Austin, 26 , rue d’Amsterdam. 
 
 HLETj H, rue de la Madeleine. 
 
 Byros, 2, rue Favart. 
 
 Combe’s, 2 3, Faub. St. Honors. 
 
 Gowktt, 30 , Paub. St. Honors. 
 
 PiNEL, 32 , rue St. Marc. 
 
 Hill’s London Javern, 39 , 
 Boulevard des Capucines. 
 
 Weber, 25, rue Royale. 
 
 PHYSICIANS & SURGEONS. 
 
 Cloquet (Jules), surgeon, 19, 
 Boulevard Malesherbes. 
 
 Campbell, Chef de Clinique 
 d’Accouchement, 24 , rue Royale. 
 
 Chepmell, Isaac Dobree, Sur- 
 geon (ex-House Physician at 
 King’s College Hospital), 21, rue 
 de Suresnes. 
 
 Churchill (chest affections), 
 7 , rue Scribe. 
 
 Gantillon, Accoucheur (stomach 
 affections), 12, rue Monthabor. 
 
 James (Constantin), 5 1 , rue de 
 Luxembourg, (consultations on 
 the choice of mineral waters). 
 
 Krishaber, 6 , rue Monthabor. 
 Diseases of the Lungs and Windpipe. 
 
 Mac Garth y, 13, rue de la 
 Ville I’Ev^que. 
 
 Sir Joseph Olliffe, Physician 
 to the British Embassy, 2, rue 
 St. Florentin. 
 
 Rayner, 2, rue du Chateau 
 des Fleurs, Champs Elys 6 es. 
 
 Roberts, 23 , rue Marignan. 
 
 Shrimpton, 17 , rue d’Anjou. 
 
 Smith, surg., 8 , r. Castiglione. 
 
 Thierry-Mieg, English Phy- 
 sician to the Grand Hotel, 45, 
 rue Boissy d’Anglas, boulevard 
 Malesherbes. — Consultations 
 from 2 to 3 . 
 
 SURGEON DENTISTS. 
 
 George, 224 , rue de Rivoli. 
 
 Author of several works on Den- 
 tistry. Inventor of the Myrrhine 
 Dentifrice sold by all chemists.— Re- 
 ceives from 10 to 4. 
 
 Hornor, Dentist, 1 2, rue Royale 
 St. Honord. 
 
 Many years associated with the late 
 Mr.Stevens of42, ruede Luxembourg. 
 
 Seymour, to, rue Castiglione. 
 
 Renowned for the great skill and 
 attention with whicli he treats his 
 patients.— Established in igiO. 
 
DIRECTORY. 
 
 590 
 
 CHEMISTS, APOTHECARIES. 
 
 E. Gallois, Laureate of the 
 School of Paris, 2, Place Ven- 
 dome, corner of rue St. Honor6. 
 
 Etiglisl! and French Dispens^iry. A 
 very old-eslal)lislicd house, patronized 
 by several ministers and ineinbers of 
 the Emperor’s liousehold. 
 
 M. Hogg, English Chemist, 2, 
 rue Castiglione (two doors from 
 the Tuileries Gardens'. Establish- 
 ment in London, Hyde-Park Sj. 
 — Chemists to the Queen. 
 
 N. B.— Addresses of all English and 
 French physicians given. 
 
 Roberts & Co., Chemists to 
 the British Embassy, 2 3, Place 
 YendOme. 
 
 H. H. Swann, Chemist to the 
 American Embassy, 12 , rue 
 Castiglione. 
 
 A highly respectable and well con- 
 ducted establishment. 
 
 MINERAL WATERS. 
 
 All French and Continental AVaters. 
 
 THE VICHY COMPANY. 
 
 22, Boulevard Montmartre, 
 EDUCATIONAL 
 
 ADDRESS OFFICE. 
 
 From to tilt 2 o’clock, Mr. Eman 
 Martin', French professor (who speaks 
 FkiglislO recommends gratis to fo- 
 reigners'— families receiving board- 
 ers for the practice of the French 
 languaiiC, schools and seminaries, 
 and professors of all kinds, 20, Bou- 
 levard dcs Italiens. 
 
 BOARDING SCHOOL. 
 
 Miss Anderson, formerly of 
 21 , Gloucester Gardens, Hyde 
 Park, London, receives a select 
 and limited number of Young 
 Ladies for their Education. 
 81 , Avenue de la Grande Armde. 
 
 PROFESSORS. 
 
 ENGLISH and CLASSICS.— 
 Bishop, 69, r. Nve. St. Augustin . 
 
 ENGLISH. — Murray, 3r>, rue 
 de Morny. 
 
 FRENCH, GERMAN, LATIN, 
 and GREEK taught on best prin- 
 ciples by Prof. Benner, B.A., 
 Phonologist of European and 
 Oriental Languages. Autlior of 
 Treatise on French Genders and 
 H.— FRENCH, ENGLISH, and 
 
 PIANO Lessons by Miles. B. 
 Parisians: ist floor, 203, rue St. 
 Honors. 
 
 FRENCH.— F. Albites, 4, rue 
 St. Lazare. 
 
 Mr. Beljame, B.A., LL.B.,Uni- , 
 versity of Paris, late of the 
 Royal High Scliool of Edinburgh, 
 now Professor in the Imperial 
 College of St. Louis, Vice-Prin- 
 cipal of the Paris International 
 College, and official Interpreter 
 to the Imperial Court, 224, rue 
 de Rivoli, same house as Messrs, 
 Galignani and Co.’s Library. 
 
 This old-established master is re- 
 commended to persons desirous of ac- 
 quiring fluency in S])eaiiingand purity 
 of accent. By his long experience in 
 this special branch of tuition, and his 
 thorough knowledge of the English H 
 language. Prof. B. is enabled to impart A 
 his instructions with great success, a 
 and rapidly to advance beginners of a; 
 all ages in conversation. | 
 
 His French Conversation Grammar 
 and other practical works for the use 
 of English students, which will be 
 found well a lapted to their purpose, 
 areto be had of Messrs Galignaniand 
 Co., and of every bookseller in the 
 West End of Paris. 
 
 Mlle.BiNARD,32,Fbg.St.Honov6 
 
 Lessons of French and Literature. 
 
 De La Mouiniere, 39, Avenue 
 de la Grande Armee. 
 
 M"' Daaias, 23, r. Luxembourg. 
 
 GERMAN. — Lennheih, M.A., 
 
 7 9, Boulevard Courcelles. At 
 home on Tuesdays, Thursdays, 
 and Saturdays from i to 2. 
 
 ITALIAN. — F. Albites, 4, rue 
 St. Lazare. 
 
 Mazzuoli, 7, Avenue de SI. 
 Ouen. 
 
 PAINTING AND DRAWING. 
 
 Dagnan, 35, rue St. Georges. 
 — Landscape in oil and pencil. 
 
 Gariot, 6, rue Oudinot. — 
 Landscape, and Portrait. 
 
 Nuimo, 9, rue de Verneuil. — 
 Miniature. 
 
 PROFESSORS OF MUSIC. 
 
 MM.andMlle.BiNFiELD, Piano,j 
 Harp, Singing, 93, rue dii Faub,; 
 SI. Honord, and 47, Grande Ruc,j 
 Passy-Paris, 
 
DIRECTORY. 
 
 591 
 
 BeLin (Miss), 2i5, rue Neuve 
 St. Augustin. — Piano. 
 
 MUSIC and SIXGING.— Miss 
 Rowland, 22, rue des Acacias, 
 aux Ternes. 
 
 Recommended Dy Messrs. Galignani. 
 
 dancing-master. 
 
 Lenfant, 10, rue de Hanovre. 
 JEWELLERS, GOLDSMITHS, 
 
 Bablin, 166, Galerie Valois, 
 Palais Royal, d la Boule d'Or. 
 
 A constant display of the richest 
 jewellery in the newest and best taste. 
 —A great choice ot diamonds and all 
 other stones for mounting according 
 to order, for which they have first-rate 
 workmen in their emi)loy— Stones cut 
 —Precious stones bought or exchanged 
 —English spoken. 
 
 Morel & Co., 62, r. Richelieu. 
 
 This old estahiished and highlr re- 
 spectable house has been long known 
 for the taste and elegance of its work- 
 manship, as well as for its rich assort- 
 ment of diamonds and jewels. — Dia- 
 mondsand precious stones purchased. 
 
 WATCH & CLOCK-MAKERS. 
 
 WURTEL, 38, Galerie Vivienne. 
 
 Gold and Silver Watches and Mu- 
 sical Boxes from his own manufactory 
 at Geneva; Fancy and Bronze Clocks, 
 Picture Clocks with cliimesand music. 
 Time-pieces with large dials for halls 
 and offices, travelling clocks and ala- 
 rums, of all sorts —English spoken. 
 
 of the different degrees to which it 
 may be made to magnify. M. Chcval- 
 lier has been distinguished by several 
 medals and prizes for various inven- 
 tions and improvements with which 
 he has enriched science. His establish- 
 ment founded by his family in 17 . 10 , 
 oeen conducted personallv since 
 17%.— M. Chevallierhas no other ddpot 
 either in Pans or the Departments. 
 
 A clerk who speaks English 'is at- 
 tached to the establishment 
 
 SPECTACLES AND OPERA 
 
 glasses. 
 
 M. Henri, OcuHst and Optician, 
 188, rue de Rivoli, facing’jthe 
 Tuileries, and corner of the Pas- 
 sage Delorme, No. 2. 
 
 thorough know- 
 ledge of the eye and great practical 
 experience in the inaniifaclure of 
 glasses IS the only Oculist Optician 
 who received Honourable Mention at 
 ia®, Universal Exhibition, 
 
 looi, lor ills valuable improvements. 
 
 STATIONERY. 
 
 A. MARION AND CO. 
 
 SUPERIOR FANCY WRITING 
 
 paper. 
 
 14 and 16, Cit (5 Berg 6 re, rue dii 
 Faubourg Montmartre, Paris. 
 23 and 25 , Soho-square, London. 
 FASniON.ABLE LETTER PAPER AND 
 ENVELOPES. 
 
 OPTICIAN. 
 
 Engineer Che valuer, ma- 
 thematical-instrument- maker 
 and optician to the late King, 
 15, Place du Pont Neuf, facing 
 the statue of Henry IV. 
 
 Engineer Dccray - CllEVALLlER, 
 only successor, ’ 
 
 M. Chevallier, member of sex'eral li- 
 terary audscieutilicsocieties in France 
 and foreign countries, and author of 
 the Co.NSERVATEUR DE LA VuE, and Other 
 xyorks, makes with the utmost preci- 
 sion every species of optical, mathe- 
 matical, mineralogical, and other in- 
 struments. With him originated the 
 iinprovcd glisacs for the assistance of 
 thcsight, particularly the opera-glasses 
 called .luMBUEs, to which has been 
 added the application ce.ntrees, in con- 
 scTiicnce of the adaptation of a simple 
 piece of mechanism, which admirablv 
 Ills them lo tlio precise distance of the 
 two eyes from each other. !M. Clicval- 
 lier ha.s latelyexeciited, from thepians 
 ofProfessor -4. Fisher.of iMoscow.a new 
 microscope, w hich its inventor calls 
 tlie Pancrahc Mioroscoce, on account 
 
 Photographic paper (prepared 
 and not prepared) ; also paper 
 Albumenizecl by Machinery, on a 
 new system patented in France. 
 
 PURVEYOR. 
 
 CuviLLiER, 16 , rue de la Paix, 
 General Provision Warehouse. 
 
 (Agents to Messrs. Domecn of Xer6s 
 de la Frontera.and to Uie D, uro Com- 
 pany, I'ortugal.) 
 
 Wines, Guincss’s Stout, A\es, Teas 
 Groceries, Pickles, Sauces, and Sun- 
 dries from all parts of (he World. Or- 
 ders taken in town ; exportation. 
 
 CAMBRIC HANDKERCHIEFS 
 L. Chapron, I t,rue dela Paix, 
 d la Sublime Porte, 
 
 The only House for the exclusivcsalc 
 of Cambric Handkerchiefs, from 13 
 sous lo 1,000 francs, plain and em- 
 liroidercd, with Cvpliers, Crowns, 
 Armorial Bearings, etc., in ibe first 
 style. Wholesale and Helail.— N.l>. 
 No.variation from price asked. 
 
592 DIRECTORY. 
 
 DRESSES, MANTLES, AND 
 READY-MADE ARTICLES. 
 
 Maisoii Ernest Carpentier, 
 (Successor to Mine. Foucqueleau) 
 ■i3, rue Louis-le-Grand, Paris. 
 
 I adics will alw ays find at the above 
 eslahlishmcnt fashionable toilettes of 
 the highest novelties, and in the best 
 taste. Mine- Foncqnctcau has long 
 been renowned amongst the most 
 fashionable and elegant French and 
 foreign ladies, and a continuance of 
 the patronage and success received hy 
 her will be fully deserved by the 
 above house. 
 
 CEINTURE REGENTE 
 ot‘Mmes. de Vertus, Sceurs, 3i, 
 rue de la Chaus^e d’Antin. 
 
 This admirable girdle has been for 
 a long period the delight of families 
 and the happiness of fashionable 
 
 ladles. Its immense advantages, in a 
 Hygienic point of view, and its ex- 
 treme beauty of form, have caused 
 many corset manufacturers to imitate 
 its various excellent qualities, but 
 without success; this, however, has 
 not prevented their olTering to ladies 
 as the true “ C.eintnre Regente, ’ bre- 
 veted, a counterfeit imitation . There 
 is, however, an infallible means of 
 obtaining the genuine article, which 
 is, never to purchase a “ Ceinture 
 Regente ” unless it has the signature 
 and address, “ Mines, do Vertus, 
 Soeurs,” written in ink on the inside. 
 
 EAU DE COLOGNE. 
 Jean-Marie Farina, 2 it, rue 
 St.Honor6. 
 
 PERFUMER. 
 
 Guerlain, 15 , rue de laPaix, 
 and in Eondon at Melnotte’s, 23, Old 
 Bond-street. 
 
 DR. CURTIS’S MEDICAL WORK “MANHOOD;” 
 
 An Essay on the Cure of Premature Decline in Man ; the 
 Treatment of Nervous Debility, Impotence, Sterility, &c. ; the 
 Cure of Infection without Mercury, and its prevention by 
 the Author’s Prescription of his infallible Lotion. 
 
 REVIEWS OF THE WORK. 
 
 “Manhood. — This istnily a valuable work, and should be in the 
 hands of young and old.’’ — Sunday Times, 23rd March, 18 58. 
 
 ‘•'We feel no hesitation in saying that there is no meniher of 
 society by w’nom the book will not be found useful, whether 
 such person hold the relation of a PARENT, PRECEPTOR, or 
 CLERGYMAN.”-Sun, Evening Paper. 
 
 “Dr. Curtis has conferred a great boon by publishing this 
 little work, in wliich is described the source of those diseases 
 Avlue.h produce decline in youth, or more frequently premature 
 old age.” — Daily Telegraph, March 27th, 1856. 
 
 Also, by the same Author, 
 
 THE IIEDICAE GUIDE TO H4DRIAGE. 
 
 A Treatise on its Physical and Personal Obligations. 
 With rules for removing certain impediments which destroy 
 the happiness of Wedded life, founded on the result of 30 
 years’ successful practice. — By J. L. Curtis, M.D., 15, 
 Albemarle-street, Piccadilly, London — Sold in Paris, Price 
 Ifr. 50C. ; postpaid, Ifr. 75c. By F. Braciiet, 8, rue de 
 I’Abbaye, or sent (post-paid), in sealed envelopes, by the 
 Author, to any part of England for 20 postage stamps, or 
 for 5 francs to any part of the world. 
 
 N.B. — Consultations from to to 3 daily 
 
 15, ALBEMARLE-STREET, PICCADILLY, LOUDON. 
 

 The letter n, refers to the 
 Abattoirs, 39, 27 6, 335, 443, 
 447, 450 
 Abbey of Port Royal. . 135 
 
 des Champs . 580 
 
 Abelard and Heloise, mo- 
 I nument to . . .455 
 
 ? — House of. . . .321 
 
 [Academic des Beaux-Arts, 91 
 — Agricole, Commerciale, I 06 
 — ^Francaise ... 90 
 
 — des Inscriptions et Belles 
 Lettres . . . .90 
 
 — de Medecine. , 142, 354 
 
 — de Paris. . . .93 
 
 — des Sciences . . .91 
 
 — des Sciences Morales et 
 ! Politiques. . . .91 
 
 Administration of Paris, 
 
 note in the Page indicated. 
 Antiques, Cabinet of, 161, 225 
 Apartments . . il, 88 
 
 Aquarium .... ’494 
 Aqueducts, 27, 495, 498, 519, 
 520 
 
 Arago, monument to, . 455 
 Arc de Triomphe de la 
 Place du Carrousel . 154 
 — de I’Btoile . . 35 , 191 
 
 — de St. Denis . . .236 
 
 — de St. Martin. . ^ 249 
 
 Archbishop’s Palace, 317, 346 
 Archives de I’Empire . 265 
 
 Arcueil 495 
 
 Area, cultivation, &c., of 
 Department of Seine, 26 «. 
 
 Argenteuil . 
 
 „ , „„ — Relic at, . 
 
 [ — del’Assistance publique, 1 1 8 Argot 
 
 .4.. Armenian Persuasion. 
 
 — College . . . . 
 
 Army, dotation of . . i 
 
 Arnouville . . . . 
 
 Arrest for debt. 
 
 Arrival at Paris, direc- 
 tions upon 
 
 Arrondissements of Paris, 
 Arsenal . . . . 
 
 Artesian Well of Cre- 
 nelle . 
 
 j — du Mont de Piete 
 — of the Police. 
 
 ; — of the Post Office 
 Adult Schools . 
 
 Advocates . 
 
 Agents de Change. 
 
 Affre, Archb., where killed 281 
 
 Alfort 495 
 
 Alfred de Musset, tomb . 455 
 Algerian Produce, Exhib. 472 
 Alice des Veuves. . .185 
 
 Ambassadors, and Consuls , 8 6 
 — Residences of . . .587 
 
 Amphitheatre, Roman . 507 
 Amusements, public. .459 
 Anatomy, Amphitheatre 
 of. . . . 134, 426 
 
 1 — Cabinets of, 390, 391, 432 
 Ancient Colleges, 383, 393, 
 394,396,399,400,404,409 
 411, 424 
 
 —Measures and Weights, 17 n. 
 Anne of Austria, vow of, 419 
 Atumaii'g des Longitudes, 92 
 Antiquarians, Streets inte- 
 resting to, 265, 390, 393, 
 394, 396, 411 
 
 334 
 
 — of Jardin de? Plantes, 439 n. 
 — ofPassy. li .190 
 
 Artists, Committee of . 105 
 Asile de la Provxaence . 123 
 — Lambrechts « . .123 
 
 — Ste-Anne. » . .123 
 
 — de Ste-Perimi , . 118,189 
 — du Vesinet . . . 546 
 
 — de Vincennes. . .585 
 
 Asnieres . . . 481, 496 
 
 Assembly, National. 325 n. 
 Assize, court of. . .66 
 
 Association de Travail 
 pour les Pauvres . .126 
 
 Association pour les Or- 
 
 phelins . . . ,124 
 
INDEX 
 
 121, 335 
 124, 420 
 
 594 
 
 Asylums, see Asiles 
 Asylum, Blind . 
 
 — ^Deaf and Dumb, 
 
 — ^Lunatic, 141,440, 496, 500 
 — ^Orphan. . 119,121,417 
 Ateliers de Sculpture . 332 
 Athenee des Arts, 5cc. . 105 
 Athenes, la Nouvelle. . 216 
 Auctioneers, Appraisers, 68 
 Auction-rooms . . .219 
 
 Austerlitz . 
 
 Bellevue 496 
 
 Bercy 280 
 
 Berri, Due de, where as- 
 sassinated. . . .221 
 
 Bibliotheque des Archives 268 
 
 Auteuil. 
 
 Avoues. 
 
 Basatelle 
 
 Bagnes, or hulks, 74 n., 79 
 
 Bagneux 
 Bains 
 
 — de I’Arsenal 
 
 — de I’Artillerie. . .354 
 
 — des Arts et Metiers. . 259, 
 
 — du Commerce. . .221 
 
 — Conservat. deMusique .100 
 . 442 — duCorps Legislatif. 327 329 
 189,496 — de I’Ecole de Droit. . 403 
 . 67 — de I’ficole de Medecine, 391 
 
 — del’ficole des Mines. . 383 
 — de rficole Polytech. 98 104 
 — de Ste. Genevieve. . 404 
 
 — Imperiale . . 35, 221 
 
 — del’Institut . . . 364 
 
 — des Invalides. . .343 
 
 — du Jardin des Plantes, 438 
 — de Louis Philippe. . 208j 
 — du Louvre . . .175 
 
 — du Luxembourg . 37 7 n. 
 
 ^Mazarine. . . . 363 
 
 — Military . . 350, 354 
 
 — duMinist(>redelaGuerre 350 
 —duMinisterede la Marine 59 
 
 107, 230 
 . 129 
 
 20 
 
 — of Ministries . 
 
 — de rObservatoire 
 — Polonaise 
 
 496 
 
 37, 248, 319 
 — d’Enghien (Sulphureous) 508 
 Bakehouse for Hospitals, 142 
 — for garrison of Paris . .188 
 Ball, first one in Paris . 477 n. 
 
 Balls and Public Gardens, viii, 
 
 47 5 to 481 
 Bank of France. 
 
 Banks, Savings . 
 
 Bmkec^, list of. 
 l^^ieae of Paris 
 Banquet of 1848 
 Barometrical Scales, Eng- 
 lish and French . 
 
 Barracks, 35, 231, 233, 252, — de la Beine . 
 
 279, 290, 322, 333, 341, — de la Sorbonne 
 346, 348, 3tf4 
 
 Barriers . .278,444,447 
 
 Barriere du Trone . .27 8 
 
 Bassin de la Villette. . 27 
 
 Bastringues. . . .482 
 
 Baths, see Bains . .37 
 
 Batignolles, town-house, 448 Bills of Exchange 
 Bazars . . 37, 231, 237 Bird-market 
 
 Beaujon, Chapelle . .195 Births, deaths, and marri- 
 
 — Hbpital . . 139, 196 
 
 Beaumarchais’ residence . 283 
 Beauvais . . . .496 
 
 Beer 42 n. 
 
 Belleville .... 452 
 
 — de St. Sulpice 
 — de Versailles. 
 — dc la Ville. . 
 Bicetre, Hospice 
 — Nouveau. 
 Bievre, the 
 
 de 
 
 26, 
 
 ages, laws on, 81, 82, 8^ 
 — in Paris . . . .41 
 
 — in France . . 4 1 » 
 
 Bituminous pavement. . 3 1 
 
 B1 essinglon , Countess, tomb 5 4 1 
 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Hind, Hospital. .121,283 
 ^chool . . . .335 
 
 Boarding-houses. . vii, 11 
 
 Boarding-schools. . .101 
 
 BceufGras . . . .47 5 
 
 Boileau’s burial-place 306, 358 
 pois de Boulogne, 193, 486 
 ^—de Vincennes . . .585 
 
 Bornes-fontaines. . .28 
 
 Botanical Gallery. . . 437 
 
 —Garden, 379, 382, 414, 428 
 BoulangerieGenerale, 142, 426 
 Boulevards . . 13, 36, 486 
 
 — exterior. . 442,448 
 
 Boulevard Malesherhes . 202 
 
 — de Magenta . . .233 
 
 — de Strasbourg . .250 
 
 — de Sebastopol . .261 
 
 — du Prince Eugene . 275 
 
 — Richard Lenoir . .275 
 
 — de St. Germain . . 393 
 
 loulogne, Bois de . .486 
 
 lourhon, death of Duke 325 547 
 3ourg-la-Reine . . .498 
 
 Jourguignons and Arma- 
 
 gnacs . . . 390n. 
 
 lourse, la . . . 107, 219 
 
 Irea, Gen., murder of 
 Iread, how sold. . 
 
 Irewery, extraordinary, 
 
 Iridge, see Pont 
 ♦-Venetian 
 
 Irinvilliers, Marquise de, 
 Iritish Embassy 
 +-Charitable Fund . 
 
 ♦-Currency in francs 
 --Residents , laws affecting 
 !uc . . . . 
 
 (udget 
 
 buildings, Public. . 
 
 —Private, remarkable . „ . 
 Jureau d’admission dans 
 les hopifiiux. . 136, 308 
 ♦-de Bienfaisance . .127 
 
 -des Longitudes. . 91, 417 
 
 ♦-des Ouvriers . . .72 
 
 595 
 
 — des Poids et Mesures, 73 
 — de Siirete . , .71 
 
 Butchers . . . 39 n. 
 
 Butte de Chaumont 449, 451 
 Cabinets, see Museums, 
 Louvre. 
 
 Cabriolets . . . . 5 n. 
 
 Cafes, 13, 209, 219, 393 
 — Concerts . . . .474 
 
 Caisse d’Amortissement, 
 
 — DepotsetConsignations, 108 
 — ^Diocesaine 
 — d’fipargne. 
 
 — pour la Vieillesse 
 Calvin, residence of 
 Calvinist worship 
 Camp, military . 
 
 Canals. 
 
 Canal St. Martin 
 Carnival 
 
 Carpet Manufactory 
 Carriages, 8 cc. . 
 
 — of State . 
 
 — number of public 
 Carrousel, Place du 
 Cartouche, skull of . 
 
 Casernes, see Barracks . 35 
 Catacombs . . .441 444 
 
 Catelan, troubadour, death 
 of . . . .491 n. 
 
 Catfle Markets, Sec. ion., 46, 
 394, 451, 498, 524, 548 
 Cavaignac, Gen., house of 348 
 Cave Generale of Hospitals, 14 2 
 Ceinture de St. Eloi . .307 
 
 Cemeteries . . . .38 
 
 Cemetery de St. Catherine, 42 7 
 — de Montmartre . 38, 448 
 
 — du Montparnasse, 38, 44 6 
 — du Pere La Chaise, 38, 453 
 — de Piepus. . . . 279 
 
 Cent Gardes . . .63 
 
 Centigrade scale turned 
 into Fahrenheit . .21 
 
 Cercles or Clubs. . .14 
 
 Chamber of Commerce . 106 
 
INDEX. 
 
 596 
 
 Chamber of Deputies .325 
 — of Notaries . • .263 
 
 — of Peers . . • .374 
 
 Chambre des Reqiietes . 301 
 — grande, du Parlement . 301 
 Champ de Mars. . .333 
 
 Champlieu . . • .507 
 
 Champs Elysees, 182, 185,484 
 Chantilly . . . .498 
 
 — Races . . • .499 
 
 Chapelle, la, St. Denis . 449 
 — de Beaujon . . .195 
 
 — Expiatoire . . .202 
 
 — de Marie de Medicis . 377 
 — Malesherbes . . .115 
 
 — Marbceuf . 115, 191 
 
 — Notre Dame desFlammes 496 
 — Sainte .... 304 
 — St. Martin . . . 252 
 
 — de la Trinite . . .215 
 
 — St. Ferdinand . .193 
 
 — of the Luxembourg •. 378 
 Charcoal . . • .29 
 
 Charenton, Hospital of . 500 
 Charges d’ Affaires . .587 
 
 Charitable Fund, British . 125 
 — Institutions . . .117 
 
 —Societies . . .124 
 
 Charlemagne’sprayer-book 1 69 
 Charonne . . . .453 
 
 Chartres . . • .500 
 
 Chateau de la Muette . 190 
 Chatelet, grand. . .262 
 
 —Petit . . . 307n. 
 
 Chatenay . . • .502 
 
 Children, number sent to 
 Foundling Hospital, 1 19 n. 
 Chois y-le-Roi . . .502 
 
 Churches, Greek . .116 
 
 — Protestant, 113, 191,199, 
 219, 241, 272, 294, 348 
 — ^Romish, see Eglise .33,111 
 Circulating libraries . 14, 176 
 Cites Ouvricres . 233, 280 
 Clamart, Amphitheatre of 
 Anatomy . -134,426 
 
 Clergy of France . lien. 
 Clisson, Connetable, street 
 where he was waylaid, 273 
 
 Clubs 14 
 
 Club, French Jockey, 14, 483 
 Coaches, Public . . 2,4 
 
 Coffee-houses . . *1^4 
 
 Coin, French . . .14: 
 
 — Amount of in F’ranee, 15 n. : 
 — Comparative table of . 16 
 
 Coligny,Adm., death of, 24 In. 
 Collection of Engravings . 226 
 — of Manuscripts . .224 
 
 — of Musical Instruments 232 
 — Standish . . . .170 
 
 Colleges Municipaux, loo, 215 
 — old remains of, 383, 393', 
 394, 396, 399, 400, 404, 
 409, 411,424 { 
 
 College des Anglais . .424 
 
 — de Ste. Barbe . 97,403 
 — Chaptal . . . 100,21' 
 
 — Duplessis . . .39 
 
 — des Ecossais . . .40 
 
 — de France . . 95, 39 
 
 — des Irlandais . 97, 42 
 
 — de Montaigu . . .40 
 
 — des Quatre Nations, 34, 36 
 — Rolliii . . . 100, 42 
 
 — de la Sorbonne . 93, 38 
 
 — Stanislas 
 
 — Turgot .... 
 Colombes . . . ^ 
 
 Column of Halle au Ble . 24 
 
 — of July . . . .28 
 
 — of the Place du Chatelet 2C 
 — of Place Vendome 35, 17 
 Comite Central des Artistes 10 
 Commerce on the Seine . 
 
 — Tribunal de . . 66, 3C 
 
 — Chamber of . . .11 
 
 Commercial Establishm. 1( 
 Commissaires de Police . 
 
 — Priseurs .... 
 Commissionaires 
 CommunalAdministration 
 
 
INDEX. 
 
 iompiegne . . . .502 
 
 ^environs of . . .506 
 
 pomptoir d’Escompte . 109 
 i— de Garantie . . .110 
 
 "oncerts . . . .47 3 
 
 Conchology, Museum of, .38 2 
 ]Ionciergerie, la. . 77, 302 
 loncorde, Place de la. . 17 8 
 
 historical events . 181 
 
 Confreres de la Passion 2 61,459 
 uonnaissance des Temps, 92 
 Llonseil Prud’hommes, 68, 252 
 — de Salubrite . . .70 
 
 — de I’lnstruction Publ. 92 
 conservatoire de Musique 
 et Declamation . loo, 231 
 —des Arts et Metiers, 95, 256 
 consuls. . . . 86, 587 
 
 Jonvents . . . .112 
 
 —remains of 295, 350, 394 
 Jonvent of Celestins. . 295 
 ^-of Bernardins. . .394 
 
 4-0 f Capuchins . .415 
 
 4-of Carmelites . 381, 418 
 
 ^of Dames de St. Joseph, 415 
 1 -of Dames de St. Michel, 423 
 -of Dames du Sacre 
 Cceur . . 112 , 346, 415 
 
 -of Dames de St. Thomas 1 1 2 
 -of English nuns . .112 
 
 -of Feuillantines . .423 
 
 -des Feuillants . 150, 175 
 
 -of Franciscan nuns . 275 
 
 -des Lazaristes. . .346 
 
 -desMiramiones . .396 
 
 4-des Oiseaux . . .34 6 
 
 ■of Pentemont. . .348 
 
 ■of Sceursde la Congre- 
 gation de Notre Dame, 346 
 fof Soeurs de St. Vincent 
 de Paule . . 112, 347 
 
 -of the Temple. , .253 
 
 -of Ursulines . . .423 
 
 wiveyaiieeg from London 2 
 mvulsionists i , .414 
 
 tpyright . , . .86 
 
 597 
 
 Corbeil go7 
 
 Corday, Charlotte, where 
 she stabbed Marat. . 393 
 Corneille, where he died, 21 o 
 69 
 59 
 69 
 58 
 481 
 65 
 
 306, 322 
 . 249 
 399 
 507 
 182 
 65 
 
 . 66 
 . 34, 65 
 63, 381 
 34, 65 
 
 . 107 
 . 126 
 . no 
 . no 
 
 . 484 
 . 354 
 . 183 
 21, 252 
 Customs, administration of 71 
 Damesme, monument to, 508 
 Dancing, public. . .47 5 
 
 Deaf andDumb, 124, 125, 420 
 
 Council of Department 
 — of Ministers . 
 
 — of Prefecture . 
 
 — of State . 
 
 Country Balls . 
 
 Cour Irnperiale . 
 
 — des Comptes, 65, 
 
 — des Miracles . 
 
 — de la Vacherie 
 Courhevoie 
 Cours la Reine. 
 
 Court, high, of Justice 
 — of Assize. 
 
 — of Cassation 
 — ^Martial. . 
 
 Courts, Tribunals. 
 Courtiers . 
 
 Creches 
 
 Credit Foncier . 
 
 — Mobilier . 
 
 Cricket Club 
 Croix-Rouge 
 Crystal Palace . 
 Custom-house . 
 
 Deaths 83 
 
 Debt, Arrest for. . .85 
 
 — Public . . , .62 
 
 Debtors, Prison for . 78, 216 
 
 Decimal System. . .17 
 
 Degrees, Academical. . 93 
 
 Denis, St., legend of. 247 n. 
 
 Department, Prefecture of, 69 
 Departmental Administr. 69 
 Depot de la Guerre . .350 
 
 — des Condamnes . .79 
 
 — des Fourrages. . .281 
 
 — desPoudresetSalpetres, 294 
 — de la Pref. de Police . 303 
 
598 
 
 IWDEX 
 298 — 
 
 Desaix, Monument to. 
 
 Diary of Places that ought 
 to he seen . . . iii 
 
 Diligences .... 2 
 
 Dining, choice of Dishes, vi 
 Direction des Contribu- 
 tions Directes, . .70 
 
 — of the Customs . .71 
 
 — des Droits d’Octroi . 7 1 
 
 - — de rEiiregistremeiit et 
 desDomaines. . 70, 231 
 
 1 
 
 — of indirect taxes 
 — des Nour rices. 
 
 — de la Poste aux Chevaiix , 
 Directions to the Travel- 
 ler leaving England . 
 
 — on his arrival and be- 
 fore leaving Paris. 
 
 Directory, Paris. 
 
 Dishes, French, list of. 
 
 Docks Napoleon 
 Dog-market. 
 
 Domicile . 
 
 Drama in France 
 Dramatic Authors’ remu- 
 neration, by theatres, 461 
 Drawings, Cabinets of .170 
 Drives, viii., 506, 517, 580 
 Dubarry, Mme., villa. 520 529 
 Dupuytren Museum, 134, 390 
 Duties, British . . .21 
 
 French .... 23 
 
 ficoled’Accouchement,135, 4 1 5 
 — d’ Administration . .400 
 
 — d’Adultes . . .101 
 
 — des Arts et Manufactures 100 
 — des Beaux Arts . 99, 
 
 — Centrale .... 
 
 — Chaptal .... 
 
 — de la Chambre du Com- 
 merce .... 
 
 — des Chartes . . 99, 265 
 
 — de Dessin . . 99, 390 
 
 — de Droit . . 94, 403 
 
 — d’fiquitation . . .103 
 
 — d’Etat Major . . ,98 
 
 — de Langues Orientales, 99 
 —do Medecine . . 130, 39P 
 
 — Militaire . . 35, 333 
 
 —des Mines . . 98,382 
 
 — de Musique et de Decla- 
 mation . . . loo, 23 
 
 — de Natation . . 38,319 
 
 — Normale . . 9 6,42 
 
 — Number of Pupils in 
 Ecoles for all France, 97 n 
 — de Pharmacie .129,414 
 
 — Poly technique, 34, 98, 410 
 — Ponts et Chaussees, 98, 369 
 — Pratique d’Anatomie .132! 
 — Primaires Superieures 1 0 
 — Speciales de Dessin . 99 
 
 — ^Super reure du Commerce loO' 
 — Turgot . . . 100, 25l 
 
 — Veterinaires, Bergeries, 13| 
 Edifices, Public. . . 3^ 
 
 — Private .... 3 
 
 Eglisedel’Abbaye aux Bois 35 
 
 — St. Ambroise. 
 
 27 
 
 — St. Antoine . 
 
 28 
 
 — de I’Assomption . 
 
 17 
 
 — St. Augustin 
 
 20 
 
 — St. Benoit 
 
 3E 
 
 — St. Bernard . 
 
 . 4^ 
 
 —des Blancs Mauteaux 
 
 . 2: 
 
 — des Carmes Billeltes 
 
 . 27 
 
 — Ste. Clotilde . 
 
 . 3^ 
 
 365 
 
 100 
 
 100 
 
 100 
 
 — St. Denis du St. Sacrem. 
 
 — Ste. Elisabeth. 
 
 — St.Eloi .... 
 
 — St. Etienne duMont, 33, 4( 
 — St. Eustache . . 33, 2 
 
 — St. Eugene . 
 
 — St. Ferdinand . 
 
 — St. Francois d’ Assise . 
 
 — St. Francois Xavier. . 
 
 — Ste. Genevieve 
 — St. Germain FAuxer- 
 rois. . . . 33, 
 
 — St. Germain desP res, 33, 
 — St. Gervais . 33, 
 
 — des Invalides . 337, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 TO9 
 
 Eglise de Jesus . . . 354 — Palace of . . .144 
 
 ■St. Jacquesdu HautPas. 42 2 — Stables of . .157 33 * 
 
 St. Jacq. et Christophe . 450 — attemptsonlife, 1S5«. 2 ’l 8 n, 
 
 — St. Jean Baptiste 
 — St. Jean de Latran 
 — St. Julien le Pauvre 
 
 — St. Lambert . 
 
 — St. Laurent . 
 
 — St. Leu and St. Gillcs 
 — St. Louis d’Aiitin. 
 
 — St. Louis en File . 
 
 — de la Madeleine 
 — Ste. Marguenfe^ 
 
 — St. Medard . 
 
 •St. Merri. 
 
 452 Empress, the present 
 399 — Household of 
 
 — Chapel built by . 
 Empire, Constitution of 
 Enclos de la Trinite . 
 Enfans Sans-Souci . 
 
 . 215 Enghien-les-Bains 
 . 319 English Ambassy 
 33, 199 — Consul . 
 
 33, 277 — Divine Service 
 . 413 — Free Schools . 
 
 308 
 
 447 
 
 250 
 
 247 
 
 33, 263 — and Fr. Measures, etc. 
 — des Missions Etrangeres, 347 — Medical Society . 
 
 — St. Nicolas Champs, 33, 260 — Money into French 
 ■St. Nicolas Char donnet, 395 — Nuns, Convent of, 4 1 8 , 
 
 56 
 
 61 
 
 586 
 
 56 
 
 261 
 
 459 
 
 507 
 
 199 
 
 199 
 
 116 
 
 115 
 
 17 
 
 143 
 
 16 
 
 423 
 
 —Notre Dame . . 33 , 309 Engravings, Collection etf, 226 
 -Notre 'Dame de Bonne Entrepot des Bles . . 450 
 
 Nouvelle. 
 
 — Notre Dame Lorette, 33, 
 — de rOratoire. 
 
 — St. Paul et St. Louis, 33, 
 — Pentemont 
 — Petits Peres . 
 
 — St. Philippe . 
 
 — SL Pierre de Chaiilot, 
 
 237 
 
 217 
 
 241 
 
 293 
 
 348 
 
 230 
 
 196 
 
 — des Chargements . 
 — des Douanes . 
 
 — des Glaces . , 
 
 — des Sels . 
 
 Environs of Paris 
 — Conveyances to, see 
 before Title. 
 
 . 252 
 . 252 
 . 248 
 . 252 
 . 495 
 pages 
 
 . 190 Equestrian Performances, 47 2 
 — .St. Pierre, GrosCailloii, 332 Ermenonville . . .508 
 
 — St. Boch. . . 33, 210 Establishments, Charitable 117 
 
 (Smoking 
 
 106 
 
 111 
 
 14 
 
 —de la Redemption. . 219 —Commercial 
 — St. Severin . . 33, 397 — Religious. 
 
 — de la Sorbonne . .383 Estaminets 
 
 — St. Sulpice . . 33, 370 rooms) .... 
 
 —St. Thomas d’Aquin . 351 fitablissement en faveur 
 de la Trinite . . .215 des Blesses Indigens 
 
 — du Val de Grace, 33, 419 — des Filatures . 
 
 Ste. Valere . . .34 6 EtangsdeSt. Hubert 
 
 — St. Vincent de Paule, 234 Exchange . 
 
 — de la Visitation . . 294 — Bills of . 
 
 Electors . . . .71 Excursions . 
 
 Elepbantof Bastille, 281 n. Executions. 
 
 Elysee Napoleon, Palace, 196 Exhibitions, &c 
 Kiuba§§y, British , . 199 Exhibition, annual, offing 
 
 Emperor, the preseift . 56 Arts . . 104, 14 18^3 
 
 — Household of. . .61 — Great Universal . xi, 183 
 
 142 
 . 126 
 . 529 
 107, 219 
 . 86 
 . viii 
 458 
 xi, 104, 472 
 
INDEX. 
 
 600 
 
 — Horticultural. . 104,99 
 — of National Industry 183 n. 
 .—of French colonial 
 Produce . . .472 
 
 Expenses of City of Paris, 42 
 — of Catholic, Protestant, 
 and Jewish Worship, 1 1 G n. 
 — of Funerals . . . 38n, 
 
 Expiatory Chapel. . .202 
 
 Exports from Paris . 44 n. 
 Faculties . . . 93, 130 
 
 Fahrenheit, scale turned to 
 
 Centigrade 8c Reaumur, 21 
 Faisanderie, fort . .584 
 
 — Emperor’s . . .528 
 
 Farm, Emperor’s, 528,535,584 
 Festivals, Public . .482 
 
 — of Environs . . x 
 
 Fieschi, Infernal Machine, 253 
 — head of, Avhere preserved 392 
 Fire-arms . . . .87 
 
 Firemen C4 
 
 Fishing. . . . .87 
 
 Flower-markets, 202, 252, 
 
 373 
 
 Flowers, sold in Paris, 37 n. 
 —Exhibition of. . 104, 105 
 
 Fontainebleau . . .508 
 
 — best mode of visiting . ix 
 — Palace of. . . .510 
 
 — Park of . . . .516 
 
 — Forest of. . . .517 
 
 Force, Prison de la. 75, 273 
 Foreign Office . . 215, 330 
 
 — Ministers, residences of, 587 
 Fortifications of Paris. . 35 
 
 Fouilleuse . . . .535 
 
 Foundling Hospital . .119 
 
 Fountains . . . .28 
 
 — des Capucins. . .178 
 
 — Chateau d’Eau, 209 n., 252 
 — de la Croix du Trahoir, 240 
 
 . . . . 425 
 
 . 298 
 
 ne . . . 346 
 
 enevieve. .411 
 
 — de Crenelle St. Germain 354 
 — des Innocens. . . 243 
 
 — de Louis le Grand. . 213 
 — du Marche St. Martin, 256 
 
 — de Mars .... 332 
 — St. Michel . . .389 
 
 — de Moliere. . . .228 
 
 — de laNaiade . . .265 
 
 — Notre Dame . . .318 
 
 — de la Place du ChMelet, 263 
 — la Place de la Concorde , 181 
 — de la Place St. Michel, 389 
 — de la Place St. Sulpice, 37 2 
 — Geotfroy St. Hilaire . 427 
 — deRichelieu, or Louvois 221 
 — de la Rue Garanciere . 373 
 — du Rond Point, Ch. El. 185 
 Fourneaux, or kitchens . 1 24 
 Fourrages, Depot des .281 
 Fourriere, or pound. . 394 
 France, Rudget of . .62 
 
 — Debt of . . . .62 
 
 — Fortresses of, plans . 344 
 — Government of . .56 
 
 — Imports and Exports, 44 n. 
 — Institut de . . 89, 363 
 
 — Kings, names of . .55 
 
 — Laws affecting Rritish . 8 1 
 
 — Mode of travelling in . 2 
 
 — Posting in ... 2 
 
 Freemasons. . . .106 
 
 French and E nglish money 16 
 Fregate Ecole . . .321 
 
 Fi-CTes des E coles Chre- 
 
 tiennes . . 113, 34 6 
 
 Fulbert, house of . .321 
 
 Funerals, expenses of. 38 n. 
 Furnished Apartments, 11 , 88 
 Gabrielled’Estrees,houseof 240 
 480n., 498 
 
 Galignani’sMessenger . 17 6 
 — Library and Reading- 
 Rooms . . .14, 176 
 
 Gaillardon . . . .519 
 
 Galleries, see Museums 
 —Private . . . 103 
 
INDEX. 601 
 
 Gambling-houses, cautions, vii 
 Garches . . . .536 
 
 Garde de Paris . . .64 
 
 — Royale, in 1 8 3 0 . 176 n. 
 
 — Imperiale . . .63 
 
 — Nationale . . 63, 87 
 
 — Cent .... 63 
 
 Garde-Meuble de la Cou- 
 ronne . .181, 332 
 
 Gardens, Public, 95, 150, 208, 
 379, 389, 475, 485 
 Gare,la . . . .442 
 
 — de I’Arsenal . . .27 
 
 — du Canal St. Martin . 281 
 
 Gas 31 
 
 Gaul, conquest by Caesar, 46 
 Gendarmerie. ... 64 
 
 General Post-Office. . 7, 246 
 
 Gentilly . . 496, 547 n. 
 
 Geology, Gallery of. .435 
 George IV. ’s monument to 
 James II .... 544 
 Gingerbread-fair . .278 
 
 Glaciere, la . . . 443 
 
 Glass, Plate, Manufactory, 248 
 Gobelins, Manufacture des 411 
 Gospel first preached at 
 Paris .... 47 
 
 Goujon, Jean, house of .383 
 Government, Civil, Milita- 
 
 ry, and Judicial . 
 
 . 56 
 
 Grande Pinte 
 
 . 279 
 
 Greek Church . . 1 
 
 16, 204 
 
 Grenelle 
 
 . 448 
 
 Grenier de Reserve . 
 
 . 294 
 
 — aSel. 
 
 . 252 
 
 Guards, National 
 
 63, 87 
 
 Guinches, Guinguettes. 
 
 . 482 
 
 Gymnastics, School . 
 
 . 103 
 
 Hackney Coaches 
 
 4 
 
 Halles Centrales. 
 
 . 243 
 
 Halle au Ble. 
 
 . 241 
 
 — aux Cuirs. 
 
 . 426 
 
 — aux Draps . 
 
 , 243 
 
 — aux Veaux . . 
 
 , 394 
 
 —aux Vins , » 
 
 . 425 
 
 Ham-fair . . . .294 
 
 Heloise and Abelard, 321, 455 
 Henry IV., where stabbed 242 
 — Statues of . . 169, 286 
 
 — mask of ... 404 
 Hippodromes 190,472,488,584 
 Historical Notice of Paris, 46 
 Horticultural Exhibit. 104 105 
 Horses, Duty on . .24 
 
 — Market for . . .441 
 
 —Races . 483, 488, 499 
 
 — Studsof 483, 499, 521,581 
 Hospices . . . .118 
 
 — Ste Anne. . . .123 
 
 — Devillas . . . 119, 519 
 
 — des Enfants Assistes, 119 417 
 — desOrphelins. . .121 
 
 — d’Enghien. . , 123, 279 
 
 — Eugene Napoleon . . 123 
 
 — des Incurables, H. 121, 276 
 — des Incurables, F. 121, 34 6 
 — Leprince . .119, 333 
 
 — Marie-ThCTese. . .122 
 
 — des Menages . 118, 519 
 
 —St. Michel . . .122 
 
 — de Ste Perine . .118,190 
 
 ” — desQuinze-Vingts, 121, 283 
 — de la Reconnaissance 123,536 
 — de la Rochefoucauld . 119 
 — de la Salpetriere (Vieil- 
 lesse) . 36, 123, 141, 440 
 
 — des Invalides Civils . 583 
 Hospitals . . . 117, 136 
 
 — Bureau for admission, 136 
 — Financial and Statisti- 
 cal condition . . 136 n. 
 
 —Military 142, 332, 418, 586 
 — St. Antoine . . 139, 278 
 
 — Beaujon. . . 139, 196 
 
 — de Bicetre . . 36, 496 
 
 — de Charenton. . .500 
 
 — de la Charite . 139, 355 
 
 — Clinique . .141, 393 
 
 —Cochin. . . 140, 415 
 
 — des EnfansMalades, 141, 337 
 — English . , . .123 
 
602 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 — Ste-Eugenie . . 141, 283 
 
 — Hotel-Dicu. . 138, 308 
 
 —Jewish . . , 142, 279 
 
 — Lariboisih-e . , 139, 234 
 
 — Eourcine . . 140, 413 
 
 —St. Louis . 36, 140, 251 
 
 — de Madame Necker, 1 3 9 , 337 
 — de la Maternite. . .135 
 
 — St. Mery. . , .142 
 
 — duMidi . . . 140, 415 
 
 — delaPitie. . . 139, 426 
 
 — du Val de Grace 35,141, 418 
 Hotel des Affaires fitran- 
 geres . 34, 59, 215, 
 
 373 
 
 176 
 
 393 
 
 — des Archives . 
 
 — de Mad. Adelaide 
 — Aguado . 
 
 — d’Aumont 
 — Beauveau 
 — de Biron. 
 
 — Borghfee. 
 
 — of BritishEmbassy 
 — de Garnavalet. 
 
 — du Chatelet . 
 
 — de Chatillon . 
 — de Cluny. 
 
 — de Colbert 
 — Demidoff. 
 
 — Dieu. 
 
 — des Finances . 
 
 — Forbin Janson 
 — de Gaucher . 
 
 — de Gramraont. 
 
 — Grand . 
 
 — d’Herbouville. 
 
 — de Hollaude . 
 
 — de la Houze . 
 
 — d es Invalided . 
 
 — de~3assaud *. 
 
 — Lambert. 
 
 — de Lamoignon 
 — Lavallette 
 — de la Legion d’l 
 — du Louvre 
 — de~Euyne's 
 — de la Marine . 
 
 34, 
 
 330 
 265 
 . 348 
 , 219 
 . 293 
 . 196 
 . 346 
 . 199 
 34, 199 
 . 273 
 . 346 
 
 — du Marechal d’Ancre 
 — Meunce . . .12 
 
 — Mignon . . ; ; 
 
 duMinistere del a Guerre 3 50 
 — de rinslruct. Publ. . 343 
 
 Ministw’e de I’lnterieur, 196 
 
 des Travaux Publ. 351 
 
 — des Monnaies. . 34 , 359 
 
 — Monaco . . . .’343 
 
 — Montbazon . . 241 n. 
 
 — deMontholon. 
 
 —of Prince Napoleon 
 — de Nesle. 
 
 — de Nesmond . 
 
 of Duchess dowager of 
 Orleans .... 
 
 — d’Orsay .... 
 
 — Pereire .... 
 
 — Pth’igord .... 
 
 — Pontalba. 
 
 — Ponthieu . 
 
 — desPostes. 
 
 — la Prefecture de Police 
 34,306 
 
 231 
 187 
 241 
 396 
 
 . 351 
 . 348 
 . 199 
 . 351 
 . 199 
 241 n. 
 246 
 
 273, 
 
 347 
 
 — dePraslin. 
 
 321 
 
 
 385 
 
 — du President du Corps 
 
 
 
 396 
 
 Legislatif 
 
 330 
 
 
 351 
 
 — of Princess Mathilde . 
 
 196 
 
 36, 
 
 308 
 
 — of Queen Christina. 
 
 196 
 
 34, 
 
 178 
 
 — de Rambouillet . 155 n 
 
 
 348 
 
 — de la Reyniere. 
 
 199 
 
 
 273 
 
 — de Rothschild . 178, 
 
 218 
 
 
 351 
 
 — de St. Aignan. 
 
 265 
 
 
 213 
 
 — de St. Paul . . 
 
 296 
 
 
 273 
 
 — de Savoisi 
 
 273 
 
 
 273 
 
 — of Duchess of Savoy . 
 
 373 
 
 
 273 
 
 — de Sens . . . . 
 
 296 
 
 35, 
 
 341 
 
 — de Soissons . 
 
 242 
 
 
 293 
 
 — de Soubise . 
 
 265 
 
 
 319 
 
 — Sully . . . . 
 
 294 
 
 
 273 
 
 — Talleyrand . 
 
 178 
 
 
 296 
 
 — deM.Tbiers 
 
 216 
 
 icur. 
 
 324 
 
 — du I'imbre 
 
 231 
 
 
 209 
 
 — de Toulouse . 2 30.381 
 
 
 354 
 
 — de la Tremouille . 
 
 36‘6 
 
 
 181 
 
 — du Tresorier . 
 
 306 
 
INDEX. 
 
 6D3 
 
 . 231 Jai'din d’Acclimatation 49.3 
 . 382 — des Plantes . 34, 95, 427 
 34, 284 Jeux de Paume . 483, 579 
 
 . 382 Jewish Persuasion , .116 
 
 11, 588 Joan of Arc, anecdote of 210 
 . 87 — where made prisoner . 502 
 
 . cl Jockey-club, French. 14, 483 
 
 9 
 44 
 484 
 67 
 71 
 65 
 
 34, 298 
 
 Hotel d’Uzes 
 — de Vendome , 
 
 — de Ville . 
 
 — of Turenne . 
 
 Hotels, furnished 
 — Laws on . . • 
 
 Household, Imperial. 
 
 Houses, curious, 216, 242, 351 Journals, Ppstajjje for 
 37 3, 425 Journeymen of Paris 
 
 — ofMme. Alboni . .187 Joules sur I’eau. 
 
 —of Clement Marot . . 373 Juges de Paix , 
 
 — and streets . . .30 Jurors . 
 
 Huissiers .... 68 Justice, Courts of. 
 
 Hydraulic Machines, 28 w. , 1 88, —Palais de 
 
 Kingof Rome, palaces 189,525 
 492, 547 Kings of France, list of . 55 
 
 29, 297 Knights Hospitallers. . 399 
 332 jj. Lafayette, burial-place of, 279 
 29, 318 Lamartine, courage of 285 n. 
 
 . 295 Laiterie de la Reine . 527 
 . 318 Lartoire .... 529 
 56 n. Law, Faculty of . .94 
 
 . 269 — School of . . .403 
 
 . 116 Laws affecting British Re- 
 . 102 sidents. . . 81 to 89 
 
 119n. Lazarists, . 7 8, 236, 346 . 
 
 . 89 
 
 158 Lectures, Public . 95,96, 
 
 87 99, 105 , 132, 138, to 141 
 
 11 260, 391 , 398, 428 
 
 89 Ledru-Rollin, escape of, 257 n. 
 104 Legends . .247n.371n. 
 
 104 Legion-d’Honneur . 61,324 
 Institutions and Pensions. 101 Legislative Body . . 57 
 
 —Charitable, 35, 1 17, 123, — Palace of . . . 325 
 
 546, 585 Lettei-s, and Letter-boxes, 8 
 
 — Religious. . . .111 Libraries, Public . .104 
 
 — Scientific and literary, 89 — Circulating . . .14 
 
 Interpreters. . . .12 Library, Galignani’s . 14,176 
 
 Invalides, Hotel des, 35, 341 Lighting of Paris . .31n. 
 
 Issy . . . . 519 Literary Institutions. . 89 
 
 Ivry 442 — Societies. . . .104 
 
 James II., burial place Lodgings in Paris . 11, 88 
 
 of . 410, 423, 424, 544 Lodgings for Workmen, 44 n. 
 Jardin Botanique de I’E- 233, 280 
 
 cole de Medecine . .382 London, conveyancesfrom 2 
 
 520 
 
 Ice-houses . 
 
 He de la Cite 
 — des Cygnes 
 — St. Louis. 
 
 — Louviers. 
 
 — aux Vaches 
 Imperial Prince 
 Imprimerie Imperiale 
 Independents, French. 
 
 Infant schools . 
 
 Infanticides 
 
 Infernal Machine ofFieschi 253 Lease, form of a. 
 — of Cadoudal . 
 
 Innkeepers, Laws on. 
 
 Inns, French. 
 
 Institut de France . 
 
 — d’Afrique. 
 
 -Historique. 
 
604 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Longcharaps . . 186, 490 
 
 Longevity in Paris . . 4t 
 
 Longitudes, Bureau des, 91 
 Louis, St., Heart of . 306 n. 
 Louis XIII., Statue of . 274 
 Louis XIV., Statue of . 229 
 Louis XVI., Marie Antoi- 
 ^ nette, place of execution 18 2 
 Louis XVII, supposed bu- 
 rial places of . 278, 316 
 Louis Philippe . 145 n. 182 
 — Library . . . .208 
 
 Louvre, Palace of the old 158 
 — attack of, in July, 159 n. 
 — Galleries of the . .161 
 
 — New . . . .155 
 
 Luggage, Passengers’ . 2, 21 
 Lunatic Hospitals 141, 496,500 
 Lutheran Churches , 113, 272 
 Luxembourg, Palace of the 374 
 
 — Centrale d’Education 
 correctionnelle . 80, 458 
 — de la Couronne d’Or, 366 
 — des Diaconesses . .126 
 
 — Doree . . . .219 
 
 — d’Enghien. . .123, 279 
 
 — Eugene Napoleon. . 122 
 
 — de Francois I. . .186 
 
 — de Clement Marot . . 373 
 
 — du Noviciat des Reli- 
 gieuses Hospitalieres . 354 
 — deRetraite Israelite . 279 
 
 — Gallery of the. . .378 
 
 — Garden of the. . .379 
 
 — Library of the . 377 n. 
 
 — le Petit . . . .373 
 
 — Pepiniere du . . .380 
 
 Luxor, Obelisk of . .179 
 
 Lycee Bonaparte . 97,215 
 
 — Charlemagne. . 97, 293 
 
 — St. Louis. . . 97, 383 
 
 — Louis le Grand . 97, 400 
 
 — Napoleon. . . 97, 408 
 
 Lyceums . . . . 90 
 
 Madrid . . . .493 
 
 Magazine of Military Ac- 
 coutrements . . .332 
 
 — du Mobilier de la Cou- 
 ronne . . . 181 , 332 
 
 Mahometan Cemetery . 458 
 Mail, Fruit Market . . 439 
 
 Maintenon . . . .519 
 
 Mairies, 71, 240,254,373,403 
 443 
 
 Maison d’Accouchement . 135 , 
 415 
 
 • — d’Arret militaire . .381 
 
 >r— d’Arret de la Garde Nat. 1 89 
 
 — Imp. de Sante. 142, 236 
 — de St. Denis . . .102 
 
 — Scipion . . . .426 
 
 — St. Casimir . 126 , 442 
 
 — du Pont de Fer . .231 
 
 — pour Enfants Delaisses, 126 
 Maisons-Laffitte. . .519 
 
 Malesherbes, monument to 3 0 1 
 Malmaison . . . .519 
 
 Manufacture des Glaces, 248 
 — des Gobelins . . 44, 411 
 
 — de Porcelaine . . 44, 548 
 
 — Imp. des Tahacs . 44, 331 
 Manufactures of Paris. . 44 
 
 Marat, where stabbed. . 393 
 
 ■ — where buried . . .403 
 
 Marche, La, races . 483, 536 
 Marche des Augustins. . 393 
 — Beauveau . . . .280 
 
 — des Blancs-Manteaux . 27 2 
 — des Carmes . . .396 
 
 — du Chateau d’Eau. . 252 
 
 — aux Chevaux . . .441 
 
 — aux Chiens. . . .441 
 
 — aux Fleurs, 202, 252, 372 
 —aux Fruits (the Maille), 439 
 — St. Germain . . .369 
 
 — des Herboristes. . .24 5 
 
 — St. Honore . . .212 
 
 — des Innocents. . . 243 
 
 ' — St. Jean . . . .273 
 
 — St. Joseph . . .231 
 
 — de la Madeleine , .202 
 
 — St. Martin . „ .255 
 
INDEX 606 
 
 Marche aux Oiseaux . . 256 
 
 — des Patriarches . .414 
 
 — au Pain . . . .245 
 
 — des Prouvaires . .242 
 
 — du Temple . . .253 
 
 — du Vieux Linge 253, 280 
 
 —a la Volaille . . 243 n. 
 
 Marie Antoinette’s prison 302 
 Markets .... 37 
 
 Marly 320 
 
 Marriages, Laws on . . 8 2 
 
 Mary Queen of Scots . 409 
 Masked Balls . . .476 
 
 Mass, high, to attend . v 
 Massacre of St. Barthe- 
 lemy, 50, 159, 238, 241 n. 
 
 Mats de Cocagne . .484 
 
 Measures and Weights . 17 
 
 — French and English 
 compared . . 17 to 20 
 
 Medals, 62, 64 n., 73 n., 225, 
 359 
 
 — Council of . . .59 
 
 — of Charles X., prison 
 in which confined 373 n. 
 582 n. 
 
 Minister of Finances . . 59 
 
 — for Foreign Affairs, 59, 330 
 — of the Imperial Household 
 and Fine Arts . . 59 
 
 — of the Interior 60, 196, 348 
 — of Justice and Public 
 Worship ... 60 
 
 — Marine and Colonies 59, 181 
 — Public Instruction 60, 348 
 — Agriculture , Commerce , 
 and Public Works, 60, 351 
 — of State .... 59 
 
 —of War . . .59, 350 
 
 Mint 359 
 
 Mints in France . 15 n. 
 
 Miracles . . 247 n. 37 1 n. 
 
 Models, Cabinets of, 258, 363, 
 368 
 
 Medecine, ficole Pratique de 132 
 Medical Institutions . . 130 
 
 — Concours . . .133 
 
 — School of Paris . .130 
 
 — Societies . . .143 
 
 — Statistical Returns . 1 3 4 n. 
 
 Menageries. . 429, 493 
 
 Menilmontant . . .453 
 
 Meridian Line, French .416 
 Messageries Imperiales, 2, 231 
 Metrical System . .17 
 
 Mettray, colony of . . 81 
 
 Meudon . . . .520 
 
 Meurice’s Hotel . 12,176 
 Midwifery, School for . 135 
 Military Establishment . 63 
 
 — Camp . . . 506 
 
 — Hospitals, 141, 332, 418, 
 586 
 
 — Prisons . . . 7 8, 381 
 
 — Schools . . 98, 536, 584 
 
 Miliemlogy, Cabinets of . 257 
 382, 435 
 
 Ministers, Foreign . .587 
 
 Moliere, where born. . 242 
 Moliere, house he died in . 229 
 Monceaux, Parc de . . 204 
 
 Money, English, value of 16 
 MontdePiete . 128, 271 
 
 Mont Valerien . . . 522 
 
 Montfaucon, Poudrette de45 In. 
 Montbazon, Duchess, 241 n. 
 Monthyon Prizes . . 90 
 
 Montmartre . . .448 
 
 — Cemetery of . . . 448 
 
 Montmorency . .522 
 
 Montrouge .... 444 
 Monument to Mgr. Affre. 315 
 — to Bichat . . .391 
 
 — to Cuvier . . .425 
 
 — to Cardinal de Belloy . 316 
 — to Corneille . . .210 
 
 — to Damesme . . . 508 
 
 — to Desaix . . .298 
 
 — to Abbe de I’Epee, 212, 578 
 — to Duke d’Enghien . 582 
 — to Count d’Harcourt .316 
 — to General Hoche . .578 
 
60C 
 
 — to Queen Hortense 
 — to James II. . 410, 544 
 
 — toEmpr. Josephine 191, 529 
 — toLarrey. . . .418 
 
 — to Malesherbes , .301 
 
 — to Marshal Ney . .418 
 
 — to Molih’e. . . .228 
 
 — to Duke of Orleans 559, 570 
 — to Cardinal Richelieu 384 
 Morgue, la . . . .73 
 
 Mortefontaine . , .522 
 
 Mosque .... 458 
 Muette, La . . . .190 
 
 Musee des Antiques, 161 , 505 
 — Americain. . . .174 
 
 — d’Artillerie . . .352 
 
 — des Arts et Metiers . 256 
 — Assyrien . . .173 
 
 — Gampana . . .162 
 
 — de la Colonnade . .170 
 
 — Colonial . . ,472 
 
 — des Dessins . . .171 
 
 — Dupuytren . . 134, 390 
 — figyptien. . . 167, 174 
 
 — Ethnographique . .173 
 
 -»*-Gallo-Romain . 163, 544 
 — Grec et Remain . .168 
 
 • -d’Histoire naturelle, 95 , 430 
 — de I’Holel de Cluny. . 38 5 
 — du Luxembourg . .378 
 
 — de la Marine . . .172 
 
 — deTEcole de Medecine, 391 
 — de FEcole des Mines . 38 2 
 — de Mineralogie . 382, 435 
 — Monetaire . . .359 
 
 — des Monuments Francais 365 
 — Municipal . , " .273 
 
 — Napoleon III. 162, 166, 17o 
 — de la Renaissance. . 174 
 
 — Sauvageot . . .171 
 
 — de Sculpture Moderne, 17 4 
 — de Sculpture Ancienne, 161 
 — Sommerard . . .38 5 
 
 — des Souverains . .169 
 
 — Slandish . . . .170 
 
 — des Tableaux. . .165 
 
 Museums . . . .103 
 
 —of Anatomy . .310,391 
 
 —of Antiquity, 103, 1 ( 1 , 167, 
 
 168, 225, 385, 505. 
 
 — of ancient armour. . 506 
 —of Art, 103, 165, 3:8, 385 
 386, 505 
 
 — Natural History, 9 f., 103, 
 434 
 
 — of Phrenology. . .433 
 
 Musical Societies. , .105 
 
 —Instruments, collection 232 
 Nanterre . . . .522 
 
 Napoleon’s residences 215, 358 
 — Statue . . . ,343 
 
 —Tomb . . . .339 
 
 National Assembly, attack 
 upon . . . 326 n. 
 
 National Guard, 63, 87, 189 
 Naturalization, law on . 84 
 
 Navy . . .59, 62, 181 
 
 News Rooms. . . 14, 176 
 
 Neuilly. . . . .523 
 
 Ney, Marshal . .418,4 57 
 
 Notaries . . . 67, 263 
 
 Notre Dame, Cathedral of, 309 
 — Sacking of. . . 315 7 ^. 
 
 Notre Dame de Lorette . 2 1 6 
 Nouvelle Athcnes . .216 
 
 NurseryGrounds, 191 , 380,429 
 Nurses, Office for . .127 
 
 Obelisk from Luxor. . 179 
 Observatory. . 34, 92, 415 
 Octroi Duties . . .42 
 
 Officiers de Sante . . 134 
 
 Omnibuses . . 6 , 187 n. 
 
 Opera, invention of . 460 n. 
 
 — house, new . . .213 
 
 Oratory, remarkable . 292 
 
 Orleans, Duke, brother of 
 Charles VI., murder of, 271 
 — Duke of, son of Louis 
 Philippe, statue of, 160 JI. 570 
 —death of. . . 193 ?i. 
 
 — Duchess of, at the Cliam- 
 ber of Deputies . 328 n. 
 
 INDEX. 
 . 529 
 
INDEX. 
 
 607 
 
 Orphan asylum 119, 121,417 — Commercial Establishm . 106 
 Orphelinat du Prince Im- — Consumption of. . .45 
 
 perial . . . .122 —Description of, by Walks, 144 
 
 Orpheoiiistes . . . 474 — Directory. . . .587 
 
 Orsay, Comte d’, tomb of, 545 — ^Distance of, from towns 
 
 Ouvroirs 
 Packets, steam 
 Pagan Worship at Paris, 
 Paintings, Galleries of . 
 
 Palaces 
 
 Palais Archiepiscopal 317 346 
 — des Beaux Arts 
 — Bourbon. 
 
 of Europe and France. 
 
 — Division of, new . . 4 
 
 — Electors . . . .71 
 
 — ^Environs of . . .495 
 
 — Expense of the popula- 
 tion of . . . . 45 n. 
 
 . 36 5 — Expenditure of . . 42 n. 
 
 33, 324 — Exports of . . . 44 n. 
 
 — Cardinal . . 205, 269 — Fortifications of . .35 
 
 — du Corps Legislatif . 324 — History of. . 46, 317 n. 
 — Elysee Napoleon . 33, 196 — Houses of . . .30 
 
 — dc r Industrie . . 183 — Islandsof. 26, 295, 297,31 8, 
 
 — de I’Institut . . . 362 332 n. 
 
 — de Justice . . 32, 298 — Manufactures of . .44 
 
 — dc la Legion d’Honneur, 324 — Military Government of 
 
 ■ — du Vieux Louvre . 32, 158 
 — du Nouveau Louvre . 155 
 — du Luxemb ourg . 32, 37 4 — Physical Statistics of 
 — dTTMlnT^e' la Marine, 181 — Police of. 
 
 Modern embellishments 54n. 
 Octroi Duties . .42 
 
 24 
 71 
 
 — ’Pompeien 
 
 — du President du Corps 
 legislatif 
 
 — du quai d’Orsay . 
 
 — Iloyal .... 
 — du Senat 
 
 — des Thermes . .32, 
 
 ' — des Tournelles 
 — des Tuileries . .32, 
 
 Pantheon . 
 
 Paris, arrival at 
 — Academy of . . . 
 
 — Arrondissements of 
 — Area of . 
 
 — Civil Administration . 
 — Basin, its geology 
 — Charitable institutions, 
 
 187 — Population of. . .40 
 
 —Prisons of . . 74 to 81 
 
 330 — Public Institutions of, 89 
 
 322 — Quarries of . 
 205 ■ — Revenues of . 
 374 — Rivers of. 
 
 388 — Routes to 
 274 — Situation of . 
 144 — Social Statistics 
 
 444 n. 
 . 42 
 
 117 to 123 
 — Churches of . . 33, ill 
 
 *-=CirGiimfercnco of . .25 
 
 — Climate of. 
 
 — Commerce of. 
 
 33, 400 — Societies, divers, in, 104 to 
 106, 116, 123 to 127, 142, 
 — Streets of. . . .30 
 
 — Taxes of. . . .42 
 
 — Treasury of the City of, 70 
 — Views, finest, of, 17 7, 193 
 262, 282, 312n., 403 
 Park ofMonceaux 
 — of Boulogne . 
 
 — of Vesinet 
 — of Chaumont . 
 
 25 Parlements, ancient 
 43 Parvis Notre Dame 
 
INDEX. 
 
 608 
 
 . 213 
 37, 229 
 37, 176 
 
 37 
 
 37, 
 
 Passage Ghoiseul. 
 
 — Colbert . 
 
 — de Lorme 
 — du Havre 
 — Jouffroy. 
 
 — de la Madeleine 
 — de rOpera 
 — des Panoramas 
 — du Pont-Neuf. 
 
 — des Princes . 
 
 — du Saumon . 
 
 — Verdeau , 
 
 — Vero-Dodat . 
 
 — Vivienne. 
 
 Passports . 
 
 Passy . 
 
 — Artesian well of 
 Patents. 
 
 Pauperism. . . 
 
 Paving materials, price of 31 n. 
 Pawnbrokers . . 128, 271 
 
 215 
 219 
 202 
 219 
 219 
 358 
 . 37 
 
 37, 247 
 37, 219 
 37, 241 
 37, 229 
 
 Place des Arts et Metiers. 
 — de la Bastille , 
 
 — de la Bourse . 
 
 — du Carrousel . .36, 
 
 — de la Concorde, or 
 
 374 
 114, 348 
 . 101 
 . 283 
 447 
 
 Peers, Chamber of 
 Pentemont, le . 
 
 Pensions or schools 
 Pepin, house of . 
 
 — Grave of 
 
 Pere La Chaise, Cemetery, 4 53 
 — Amount expended in, 4 58 n. 
 Periodical Exhibitions . 104 
 Perth, Duke of. Monument 410 
 Pharmacie Centrale, 142, 396 
 — Militaire . . . .3,^2 
 
 — Ecolede . . 135, 414 
 
 Physical Statistics . .24 
 
 Physicians, number of, 134 n. 
 —list of . . . .589 
 
 Pichegru, monument of . 427 
 Picpus, Cemetery of. ,279 
 Pierrefouds. . . , 506 
 
 Pig-market . . .449 
 
 Places, public squares . 30 
 — that ought to be seen . iii 
 — of Historical Note. . 55 
 
 — Memorable for Scenes 
 of Popular Disturbance, 
 
 Louis XV 
 
 history of 
 
 — du Chatelet 
 — Dauphine. 
 
 — de Greve. 
 
 — Lafayette. 
 
 — Louvois . 
 
 — Mauhert . 
 
 — Napoleon III. 
 
 — de Notre Dame 
 ' — du Palais Bourbon 
 — du Palais Royal 
 — Royale . 
 
 — du Trone. 
 
 — Valhuhert 
 — Vauban . 
 
 — Vendome 
 — des Victoires 
 — des Vosges 
 Poissy 
 
 36, 
 
 178 
 181 
 262 I 
 
 298 
 290 
 235 
 221 
 396 
 155 I 
 308 ■ 
 330 
 . 209 
 36, 274 
 278, 482 
 . 439 
 . 337 
 36, 176 
 36, 229 
 . 274 
 524 
 
 55 
 
 -of Public Amusement’ 459 
 
 Police, Administrationofthe 71 
 — Commissaires de . . 73 
 
 — Prefecture de. . 71, 299 
 — Office for carriages . 5 
 
 Polytechnic School, . 98, 410 
 Pompe a feu de Chaillot, 28 n., 
 188 
 
 — du Gros Caillou, 28 n., 332 
 PontdeEAlma . 187, 332 
 — de I’Archeveche . .318 
 
 ■ — d’Arcole . . . .321 
 
 — des Arts .... 364 
 — d’Austerlitz. . . ,439 
 
 — de Bercy, or de la Gare, 280 
 — du Canal St. Martin, . 27 6 
 
 — Carrousel, or Sts. Ph-es, 369 
 — au Change . , .306 
 
 — Concorde, or Louis XVI 324 
 — de Constantine . .319 
 
 — au Double. . . .309 
 
 — del’Estacade. . .296 
 
INDEX. 
 
 609 
 
 out des Invalides 
 
 . 186, 330 
 
 -de lena . 
 
 . . 188 
 
 -de Solferino . 
 
 . 153 
 
 -Louis Philippe 
 
 . 318 
 
 ^Marie 
 
 . 320 
 
 -St. Michel 
 
 . 307 
 
 »-St. Louis 
 
 . 318 
 
 —Napoleon 
 
 . 280 
 
 -Neuf. . 
 
 . 297 
 
 —Notre Dame . 
 
 . 321 
 
 —Petit 
 
 . 307 
 
 —Royal . 
 
 . 321 
 
 — de la Tournelle 
 
 . 319 
 
 '^ont-de-St.-Maur. 
 
 . 524 
 
 ’ope Pius VII. , where de- 
 
 tained by Napoleon . 509 
 
 ’opulation of Paris 
 
 . 40 
 
 i— of France . 
 
 4 1 n. 
 
 ’orcelain Manufactory . 548 
 
 ’ort d’Armes. . 
 
 . 87 
 
 ’orts or Wharfs. 
 
 . 29 
 
 ?orte St. Denis . 
 
 . 236 
 
 — St. Bernard . 
 
 . 394 
 
 — Maillot . 
 
 . .193 
 
 St. Martin. . 
 
 . 249 
 
 ’ost Office . 
 
 . 7, 246 
 
 —Statistics of . 
 
 .ion. 
 
 Post-Horses, Office for, . 7 1 
 
 posting in France 
 
 2 
 
 [*oudrettedeMontfaiicon 4 5 1 n. 
 Pre aux Clercs . 348, 356 
 
 ^-Catelan . . . .492 
 
 r-St. Gei'vais . . .524 
 
 Iprefecluro of Department, 69 
 4— Conseil de . . .69 
 
 —of Police, . 34, 71, 303 
 Premonstratensiaii Monks, 390 
 President of I.egisl. Body, 58 
 —Palace of. . . .330 
 
 Priests and Prelates . lion. 
 PrinceNapoleon’s household 6 1 
 — Palace . . . .187 
 
 — of Wales, wager with 
 Count d’Arlois . . 493 
 
 4— Imperial . . . .5 on 
 
 Prin . Mat ilda’s household . 6 1 
 
 Prin. Clotilda’s household 61 
 
 Printing Office, Imp. 34, 269 
 
 Prisons 74 
 
 Prison de PAbbayc, . .78 
 
 — de la Conciergerie, 77, 302 
 — des Condamnes. . 79, 4 58 
 — for Debtors . . 78, 210 
 
 — de la Force . .7 5, 273 
 
 — delaNouvelleForce, 7 5, 280 
 — pour Jeunes Detenus, 80, 4 58 
 — de St. Lazare. . 73, 230 
 — des Madelonnettes. 77,415 
 — of Marie Antoinette . 302 
 — de Ste. Pelagic. . 78, 4 20 
 — Mazas . . . 75, 28o 
 
 —Military. .78, 381, 439 
 — de la Prefecture . 77, 303 
 Prisoners at Vincennes 581 n. 
 Private Museums. . .103 
 
 — Edifices . . . .31 
 
 — Libraries. . . .104 
 
 Professors, list of . 590 
 
 — agreges . . . .95 
 
 Promenades. . . .484 
 
 — of Longchamps . .180 
 
 Protestant Churches, 113 to 
 
 115, 191, 199, 219, 241, 
 272, 294, 348 
 
 — Schools . . . .115 
 
 Prud’hommes, Council, 68, 252 
 Public Amusements . .459 
 
 — Buildings. . . .34 
 
 — Coaches . . . . 2, 4 
 
 — Debt 62 
 
 — Festivals. . . .482 
 
 — Gardens . . .485,486 
 
 — Institutions ... 89 
 
 — Instruction . . 60, 92 
 
 — Libraries. . . .104 
 
 — Museums, see Musees . 103 
 — Promenades . . .484 
 
 — Schools, of Medicine . 130 
 — Works, Administration, 60 
 Publications of Academic, 90 7i. 
 Quarries under Paris, 444 n. 
 Quarlers of Paris . . 4 
 
GIO 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Quartier Latin . 
 
 . 396 
 
 Quays, 29, 307, 358 
 
 369,439 
 
 Rabelais’ grotto. 
 
 . 526 
 
 Races . 483, 488 
 
 499, 584 
 
 Railroads . 
 
 2 
 
 — Corbeil . 
 
 3, 439 
 
 — St. Germain . 
 
 2, 203 
 
 — Lyons . 
 
 3, 280 
 
 — Northern. 
 
 3, 235 
 
 — Orleans . 
 
 3, 439 
 
 — Rouen . 
 
 2, 203 
 
 — Sceaux . 
 
 3, 547 
 
 — Strasburg. 
 
 3, 250 
 
 — Versailles. 
 
 3, 203 
 
 — Vincennes 
 
 3, 283 
 
 — Western . 
 
 3, 381 
 
 — all round Paris 
 
 3, 451 
 
 Ranee, Abbe de 
 
 24 In. 
 
 Rainey. 
 
 . 524 
 
 Rambouillet. 
 
 . 525 
 
 — Palace of 
 
 . 525 
 
 — Park of . 
 
 . 527 
 
 — Imperial farm 
 
 . 528 
 
 Ravaillae, remains o 
 
 303n. 
 
 Reading-Rooms . 
 
 14, 176 
 
 Regattas 
 
 . 484 
 
 Regnard, where born 
 
 . 243 
 
 Religious Institutions. . Ill 
 
 — Armenian, Greek . 
 
 . 116 
 
 — Jewish . 
 
 . 116 
 
 — Protestant 
 
 . 113 
 
 — Romish . 
 
 . Ill 
 
 Reservoirs, 28, 242, 
 
 381, 383 
 
 417, 424 
 
 
 — remarkable . 
 
 . 417 
 
 Restaurateurs 
 
 . 12 
 
 Reviews, Military . 
 
 . 483 
 
 Rewards to Exhibitors, 183 n. 
 
 Richelieu, head of 
 
 384 n. 
 
 Riding Schools. 
 
 103, 157 
 
 Rifle-Matches 
 
 484, 583 
 
 Rivers of Paris. 
 
 . 26 
 
 Rocking stones . 
 
 . 445 
 
 RomainvilJe. 
 
 . 529 
 
 Romish Clergy, cost of, 1 16 n. 
 
 — how composed. , 
 
 1 16 n. 
 
 Rossini, house of ,189 
 
 Rothschild’s hotels . .218 
 
 Rousseau, burial-placeof, 402 w. 
 — place where he died . 508 
 Rou tes from coast t o Paris , 2 
 
 Rue du Banquet. . .191 
 
 — des Carmes . . .396 
 
 — des Ecoles . . .385 
 
 — duFouarre . . . 396 
 
 — du Rempart . . 2 1 on. 
 
 — de Rivoli. . . .17 5 
 
 Rueil . ... 529 
 
 §t^Cloud . . . .529 
 
 —Fete of . . . . 535 
 
 — Park of . . . . 534 
 
 St. Gyr. . . . .536 
 
 St. Denis . . . ; 536 
 
 — Maison de. . 102, 543 
 
 St. Germain en Laye . 543 
 St. .Tames .... 493 
 St. Leu Tavernay . .547 
 
 St. Mande . . . .585 
 
 St. Ouen .... 547 
 Ste. Chapelle . . . 304 
 
 Salaries of Prelates . 1 1 6 n. 
 
 Salle du Senat . . .376 
 
 — des Etats. . . . 166 
 
 Salles d’Asile . . .102 
 
 Salpetriere, Hospice . 36, 123 
 141, 440 
 
 Salt, Entrepot for . 
 
 Sapeurs Pompiers 
 Sauvageot, Collection 
 Savings’ Bank . 
 
 Savonnerie, la . 
 
 Scarron, house of 
 Sceaux. 
 
 . 252 
 . 64 
 
 . 171 
 . 129 
 . 412 
 291 n. 
 . 547 
 
 Schools , see Ecoles, Lycees , 9 5 
 Schools, Special . .97 
 
 — British free. . . .115 
 
 — of Rue Vaugirard . . 381 
 
 Sciences, Faculty of. .93 
 
 Scientific Institutions. . 89 
 
 — Societies . . 104, 143 
 
 Sculpture, Ateliers de .332 
 — American , , .173 
 
irsDEX. 
 
 611 
 
 Sculpture, Ancient . .161 
 
 ■ — Assyrian. . . .17 4 
 
 — Egyptian. . . .174 
 
 Secours aux Noyes, &c. 73 
 
 — a Domicile. . . .127 
 
 Seine, the River. . . 26 
 
 Seminaire des Irlandais, 424 
 — des Missions Etrangores 1 1 2 
 
 —Petit 112 
 
 — du St. Esprit. .113, 424 
 
 — de St. Firmin. . . 394 
 
 — de St. Nicolas du Char- 
 
 donnet . . .112, 395 
 
 — de St. Sulpice. .112,373 
 
 Senate. ... 56 
 
 —Palace of. . . . 374 
 
 Sentimental Journey, site 
 of one of the scenes in, 358 
 Sergents de Ville . . 64 
 
 Servants. . . . 12 , 88 
 
 Sevres 548 
 
 Sewers, System of . . 40 
 
 Shooting .... 87 
 
 Sihour, Archbishop . 4 08 n. 
 
 Sisters of Charity, R.C. . 112 
 — Protestant. . . .126 
 
 Skating 484 
 
 Slaughter-Houses, seeAfcol- 
 
 toirs 39 
 
 Smoking-rooms . . . 1 4 
 
 Social Statistics. . .40 
 
 Socicte du Prince Imper. 1 22 
 Societies, Agricultural . 106 
 — Benevolent, 82, 123 to 127 
 
 — Medical . . . .142 
 
 — for Races. . . 14,483 
 
 — Religious. . . .116 
 
 — Scientific, Literary, 104, 143 
 Sceurs de la Charite . .112 
 
 Soirees, Diplomatic, &c. vii 
 Sorbonne, the . 34, 93, 383 
 Souricieres . . . 303 
 
 Sports . . . . ; 483 
 
 Squares, see Places. 
 
 Stables, Emperor’s, .157, 332 
 Staffs, Military „ 63 
 
 Stamp Office . . 71, 231 
 
 State, Council of. . .58 
 
 — Carriages . . .577 
 
 Statistics of Paris, Social, 40 
 — Physical . . . .24 
 
 Statue of Henry lY. 286, 297 
 ' — of Louis XHI. . . 274 
 
 — of Louis XIV. . 229, 285 
 — of Dukeof Orleans, 160n. 570 
 — of Marshal Ney . .4 18 
 
 Steam packets from England 2 
 Steeple-chases . . .483 
 
 Streets, length of . .30n. 
 
 Streets and houses . .30 
 
 — Interesting to Antiqua- 
 
 rians, 265, 27 3, 
 
 388, 
 
 390 
 
 393, 423 
 
 
 
 Students, Medical. . 
 
 
 130 
 
 — Internes . 
 
 133 n. 
 
 — number of 
 
 
 95 
 
 — cost of education . 
 
 , 
 
 131 
 
 Subsistances militaires. . 
 
 188 
 
 Sun-dial, curious, 242 
 
 , 273, 
 
 ,371 
 
 Suresne. 
 
 
 551 
 
 Surgeons, list of 
 
 , 
 
 589 
 
 Suspension-bridges . 
 
 280, 
 
 319 
 
 Swimming Schools . 
 
 38, 
 
 319 
 
 Swiss Cottage . 
 
 
 203 
 
 — Church . 
 
 , 
 
 115 
 
 Synagogue . 116, 
 
 233, 
 
 255 
 
 Talleyrand, residence of, 178 
 Tapestry Manufactory. . 411 
 Taxes of Paris . . .42 
 
 — indirect for all France, 43 n. 
 
 Teachers, list of. 
 
 . 590 
 
 Telegraphs . 
 
 . 11 
 
 Templars, order of 
 
 . 253 /1. 
 
 Temple, Couvent du 
 
 . 254 
 
 — Palais du. 
 
 . 253 
 
 Tennis Courts, 152, 
 
 483, 579 
 
 Theatres 
 
 . 459 
 
 — Description of, 4 
 
 63 to 472 
 
 — Receipts of. 
 
 . 461 n. 
 
 — Statistics of 
 
 . 460 n. 
 
 — Sum levied on Receipts 
 of, for the Hospitals. 401 
 
lADEX 
 
 612 
 
 Theatres of annexed Com- 
 
 munes . . . .472 
 
 Tlieology, Faculty of. . 94 
 
 Thermos, Palais des. . 388 
 
 Thermometric Scales. . 21 
 
 Thiers, residence of M. . 216 
 Tickets, how to obtain . iv 
 Tir National . . .583 
 
 Tobacco, Manufactory . 331 
 — Sale of . . . 44, 46 
 
 Tomb of King of Poland, 358 
 — of King John’s daughter 295n. 
 — of Cardinal Richelieu . 384 
 — of Countess of Blessing- 
 ton and Count d’Orsay. 545 
 — of James II. . . 410, 544 
 
 — ofJamesDukeofDouglas 357 
 — of Lafayette . . .279 
 
 .. r-of Napoleon . . . 339 
 
 —of Rousseau . . 402 n. 
 
 — of Voltaire. . . 402 n. 
 
 Tour de St. Jeande Latran 399 
 — St. JacquesBoucherie33, 262 
 — de Nesle, site of . .363 
 
 Tournelle, la. . . . 393 
 
 Trademarks . .87 
 
 Tradesmen, list of . .590 
 
 — Licenses of . . . 44 n. 
 
 Traiteurs . . . .12 
 
 Treasury, Imperial . .178 
 
 — of the City of Paris. . 7 0 
 
 Trianon, Grand. , ,575 
 
 — Petit 577 
 
 Tribunals , . 34, 65 to 67 
 
 Tribunal des Conflits . 373 
 Triumphal Arches, 35, 154, 
 191, 236, 249 
 
 — Coliunns, 35, 176, 263, 27 8, 
 282 
 
 Trocadero, the . . .189 
 
 Tuileries, Palace of the . 144 
 — Garden of the . 150, 485 
 
 Turrets, 273, 296, 390, 393 
 
 Universal Exhibition xi., 183 
 University of France. . 92 
 
 Valets de Place . . .12 
 
 Vaugirard . . . .447 
 
 Vehicles, Public . . 2, 4, 6 
 
 — to Environs, see Preface. 
 Venetian Bridge . .450 
 
 Versailles . . . .552 
 
 — Best mode of visiting, viii 
 — Gardens of. . . .570 
 
 — ^Museum of. . . .557 
 
 — Palace of. . . .553 
 
 — To^\n of. . . ,578 
 
 Vesinet . . . .546 
 
 Veterinary School. . .495 
 
 Views of Paris, see Paris. 
 
 — fine 448, 452, 538 n., 581 
 Ville d’Avray . . . 536 
 
 Villette, la. . . . 450 
 
 Villcneuve I’fitang . . 535 
 
 Vincennes . . . .580 
 
 — park of . . . .585 
 
 — Ih’isoners confined at, 581 n. 
 — Asylum at . . .58 5 
 
 — Military hospital at .58 6 
 Visconti, Monument to . 455 
 Voltaire, where he died, 369 
 — tomb of . . . 402 n. 
 
 — birth-place of. . .502 
 
 Wages in Paris ... 44 
 
 Walks, Public . . . 484 
 
 Water, supply of. . . 28 
 
 —Purified . . . .296 
 
 Weights, French and Eng- 
 lish. . . . 17 to 20 
 
 Wesleyan Chapel. . .115 
 
 Wills, Laws on . . .83 
 
 Wine Market . . .425 
 
 Workmen,housesfor,45n. ,233 
 280, 546, 587 
 
 Workmen's Societies. . 127 
 Workwomen, asylum for . 546 
 Zoology, gallery of . .434 
 
ST OF THE STREETS, SQUARES, ETC., IK PARIS. 
 
 I Explanation. 
 
 ie capital letter and Figure placed after the name of the street indicates 
 part of the map in which it is found ; for example, if you wish to find 
 dll Colys(5e, C. 2, draw your finger down under the letter C., from 
 top of the map, till it arrives opposite the figure 2, between the lines 
 thicli is rue du Colys(5e. 
 
 d. boulevard. 
 i.v. avenue, 
 ass. passage 
 iq. square, 
 q. place, 
 nip. impasse. 
 
 Ibbaye (de P), Mont- 
 martre, D. E. \. 
 
 Uibaye (de P), D. 4. 
 kbbaye (place de P), D. 4. 
 ibbC de PEpde, E. 5. 
 kbbeville (d’), E. 2. 
 tboukir, E. 3. 
 tcacias (des) Rcht., E. 1. 
 icacias, Ternes, B. 2. 
 Lffre, F. i. 
 
 Lguesseau (d’|, c. 2. 
 Liguillerie (de P), e. 3. 
 ilbouy, F. 2. 
 
 Jger (d’l, D. 3. 
 libert, F. 2. 
 
 .ligre (d’l, G. 5. 
 
 .lleraagne (d’|, G. H. t. 
 Jleray (d^), B. C. e. 
 
 .Ima (Bd. de P; Ij. 2. 3. 
 Ima (Font de P) B. 3. 
 niandiers - Popincourt 
 des). G. H. 3. 
 niandiers (des), saiute- 
 Jenevi^ve, E. 5. _ 
 
 niandiers (bd.),F. g. 3. 
 nboise (d’), E. 2. 
 mbroise Pard, E. i. 
 nliroise (St-) G. 3. 
 ndlie, C. 4. 
 nelot, G. 3. 
 
 ABBREVIATIONS. 
 
 Ch. chemin. 
 
 Mar. niarais. 
 
 Fg. faubourg. 
 
 Bat. Batignolles. 
 
 Ter. Ternes. 
 
 Relit. Rocliecliouart. 
 
 Ancre (passage de P), E. 3. 
 Andre-des-Arts(St.-),E.4. 
 Andrd (St.-) av., A. 4. 
 Andrd-des-Arts (placest-), 
 E. 4. 
 
 Anglade (de P), D. 3. 
 Anglais (des), E. 4. 
 Anglaises (des), E. G. 
 Angouldme (d’), F. 3. 
 Angouldme (passage d’), 
 G. 3 
 
 Angoulenie- St-Ilonord, 
 See Morny. 
 
 Anjou-St-Honord, D.2. 
 Anjou au Marais, F. 3. 
 Anjou-Daupiiine, D. 4. 
 Anjou (quai d'j.F. 4. 
 Anne (Sainte), D. 3. 
 Annelets (des). IT. 2. 
 Antin (cite d’j, D. 2. 
 
 Antin (d’), D. 3. 
 
 Antin (av. d’), C. 3. 
 Antoine (St-), F. 4. 
 
 — (Mazas), G, 4. 5. 
 Antoine (du faub. St-), 
 
 G. 4. H. 5. 
 
 Antoine-Dubois, E. 4. 
 Apolline (Ste-), E. 3. 4. 
 Arago, G. B. 
 
 - (bd.). D. E. 0. 
 
 Arbaldte (do P), E. 5. 
 
 ^ Arbre-Sec (de P), E. 3. 4. 
 Arc-dc-Triomplie (de P), 
 
 Bel. Belleville. 
 Courc. Courcelles. 
 Mtge. Montrouge. 
 Gren. Grenelle. 
 Vgd. Vaugirard. 
 Mtre. Montmartre. 
 
 B. 2. 
 
 Arcade (de P) D. 2. 
 Archeveebd (quai), E. 4. 
 Arcbevechd (pont), E. 4. 
 Arcole (pont d^), E. 4. 
 Arcole (rue d'), E. 4. 
 Arcueil (boulev.), D. G. 
 Ardennes (des), G. H. 1. 
 Argenteuil (d’) U. 3. 
 Argenteuil (route), C. t. 
 Arnaiid (St-), C. D. 2. 
 
 Arras (d’), E. 5. 
 
 Arrivee (de P), D. 5. 
 Arsenal (place de P), F. 4. 
 Arts (pont des), E. 4. ' 
 
 Arts-et-M6tiers (square 
 et Conservatoire), F. 3. 
 Asile (de P), G. 4. 
 
 Assas (d’), D. 4. 5. 
 Assomption (de P), A. 4. 
 Astorg (d'), C. 2. 
 
 Auber, D. 2. 1 
 
 Aubry-le-Boucber, E. 3. 1 
 
 Aumaire, F. 3. ' 
 
 Aumale (d’) D. 2. 
 
 Aunay (boulev. d’), G.3. 4 
 Austerlitz (d’), F. 6. 
 
 — (bd.),F-G. 5. 
 
 — (quai),G. 5. G. 
 
 — (pont d'), F. 5 
 Autfiuil (bd. d’), A. B. I . 
 Aval (d’), F. 4. 
 
 Babille, E. .3. 
 
 •d 
 
 nstcrdaiii (if), ii. 1. 2. 
 
 lastase (St-), F. 3. 
 <oienne-Conu)dic, E. 4. 
 
ii LIST 
 
 Babylone (de), C. D. 4. 
 
 Bac (du), D. 4. 
 
 Bagneu'x (de), D. 5. 
 
 Baillct, Arbrc-Sec, E. 4. 
 BailleuljK. 4. 
 
 Baillif, E. 3. 
 
 Balzac, !i. 2. 
 
 Banque de France, D. 3. 
 Banque (de la), E. 3. 
 Banquier (dii), F. 6. 
 
 Barbc (Sle-), E. 3. 
 
 Barbel de Joiiy, C. 4. 
 Barbette, F. 4. 
 
 Barbmetre (galerie du), 
 pass, de I’Opcra, E. 2. 
 Barouill6re, C. 5. 
 
 Barres (dcs), F. 4. 
 
 Bair6s Ides), F. 4. 
 BarUidlemy, C. 5. 
 Basfroi,G. 4. 
 
 Basse, Passy, A. 4. 
 Basse-des-Ursins, E. 4. 
 Bassc-du-Rcmpart, D. 3. 
 Bassins (des), B. 2. 3. 
 Bassompierre, F. 4. 
 Bastille (pi. de la) F.G. 4. 
 Ba tallies (dcs), B. 3. 
 Batignolles (bd.), C. I). 1. 
 Baltoir St-victor, E. .'i 
 Baudin (impasse), E. 2 
 Baudoyer (place), F. 4. 
 Bayard, C. 3. 
 
 Bayen, A. 1. B. i. 2. 
 Beaiibourg, F). 3. 4. 
 
 Beauce (de), F. 3. 
 Beaujolais, Palais-Royal, 
 n. E. 3. 
 
 Beaujolais, au Marais, 
 F. 3. 
 
 Bcau.jon, B. 2. 
 Beaumarchais (bd.),F.3. 4- 
 Beaune (de), D. 4. 
 Beauregard, E. 3. 
 Bcaurepaire, E. 3. 
 Beautrcillis (dc),F. 4. 
 Beauveau (place), C. 2. 
 Beauveau (de), G. 5. 
 Beauveau (maiclic), G. 5. 
 Bcaux-Arls (dcs), D. 4. 
 Bcccaria, G. 5. 
 
 Bcelhoven, A. B. 4. 
 
 Bel Air (avenue dti),T1.5. 
 Bcllecliassc (de), 1). 4. 
 Bellccbasse (place), C. 4. 
 Bellefond(de), E.2. 
 Belleville (bd.),G. 2. 3. 
 Bcllifcvre, G. 6. 
 
 Bellini, A. 3. 
 
 Bellot,F. 1. 
 
 Bel Respiro (de), B. 2. 
 
 OP STREETS, SQUARES, 
 
 Belzuncc, E. i. 
 
 Benoit (St-), D. 4. 
 Beranger, F. 3. 
 
 Bercy Marais, F. 4. 
 
 Bercy (de), F. G. 5. 6. 
 
 — (quai de), G. G. 
 
 Bercy (bd. de), G. H. 5. C. 
 Bercy (pont de), G. C. 
 Berger, E. 3. 
 
 Bergerc, E. 2. 
 
 I;erg6re (cild), E. 2. 
 Bergdre (galcric) , rue 
 Geoffroy-Marie, E. 2. 
 Berlin (de), I). 2. 
 Bernard-Palissy D 4. 
 Bernard (St-), G. 4. 
 Bernard (imp. St-), G. 4. 
 Bernard (St-), quai et port 
 au vin. F' 5 
 Bernardins (des), E. 4. 
 Bci'i'yer (citd), D. 3. 
 
 Berrv, B. C. 2. 
 
 Bcrtiiollet, E S. G. 
 Berthier (l)d.), B. 1. 
 Bertin-Poirde, E. 4. 
 Berton, A. 4. 
 
 Bcrlrand, C. 5. 
 
 Bdtimne (quai dc),l'. 4. 
 Beurriere, 1). 4. 
 
 Bichat, F'. 2. 
 
 Biclics (des), A. 2. 3. 
 Biclies (du pont aux), St. 
 Marcel, E. 5. 
 Bienfaisance, C. D. 2. 
 Bievre (de), E. 4. 
 
 Billcltes (dcs), F. 4. 
 
 Billy (quai de), B. 3. 4. 
 Bineau (boulevard), A. 1 
 Biot, D. 1. 
 
 Biragurnc, F. 4. 
 
 Biscomet, F. 5. 
 
 Bizet, B. 2. 
 
 Blainville, E. 5. 
 
 Blanche, D. 1.2. 
 
 Blanche (place), n. I. 
 Blancs-Manleaux, F. 4. 
 Blancs-Manlcaux (marchd 
 des), F. 4. 
 
 Blcue, E. 2. 
 
 Blomct, B. C. 5. 
 
 Blondel, E. 3. 4. 
 Bochartde Sarron, E. I. 
 Boieidiou (Place), E. 2. 
 Boileau, A. 5. 
 
 Bois (des), II, 2. 
 
 Boissidre, A. B. 3. 
 
 Boissy d’Anglas, 1). 3. 
 
 Bon (S1-), E. 4. 
 
 Bon-Puits (du) E. 5. 
 
 Etc, 
 
 Bonaparle, D. 4. §. 
 Bondy (de), F. 3. 
 Bonne-Nouvellc (b 
 vard), E. 2. 3. 
 Bons-Enfants (dcs), 
 Bons-Hommes, B. 3. : 
 Bordeaux, G. G. 
 Borghdse, A . 1 . 
 Bornes (des), A. 3. 
 Bosquel (av.),B 3. 4^ 
 Bossuet (de), E. 2. 
 Bouchardon, F. 3. 
 Boucher, E. 4. 
 Boucbcric - dcs - In vs 
 (de la), C. 3. 
 Boudreau, D. 2. 
 Boufflcrs (cite), F. 3. 
 Bougainville, C. 4. 
 Boulainvilliers, A. •? 
 — avenue de, .A . 4. 
 Boulangers (des), E. 
 Boulard, D. G. 
 Boule-Bouge, E. 2. 
 Boulets (des), G. H. ' 
 Boulogne (do), 1). 1. 
 Boulogne (Bois-de) 
 2. 3. 4 . 
 
 Bouloi (du), E. 3. 
 Bouquet de I.ongcl 
 (du), B. 3. 
 
 Bouquet dcs Champs 
 
 B. 3 
 
 Bourbon - le- ChiUea 
 4. 
 
 Bourbon (quai),E. F 
 Bourdaloue, E. 2. 
 Bourdon (boulevard) 
 Bourdonnais (des), F 
 Bourdonnayc (la), B 
 
 C. 4. 
 
 Bourct, G. 1. 
 Bourg-FAbbd (pass.) 
 Bourgogne (de), C. 3 
 Bourguignons (dcs), 
 Boursaull, I). 1. 2. 
 Bourse (de la), E. 3. 
 Bourse (place de la) 
 Bourtibourg, F'. 4. 
 Boularcl, F. 4. 
 Bouvincs (de), II. 5. 
 Brady (passage), faul 
 Sl-l)cnis, F'. 2. 
 Branlomc, F. 3. 
 Braque (de), F 3. 
 Brda. D. 5. 
 
 Brcclie aux Eoups, 
 Breila, E. i.2. 
 
 Breda (jilacc), I). 2. 
 Brel ague (de), F. 3. 
 
LIST 
 
 teuil (place), C. 5. 
 teiul taveniio), C. 4. 5. 
 touvilliers, K. 4. 
 izin, D. 0. 
 icmiclie, E. 4. 
 
 ;sac, F. 5. 
 mgniart, E. 3. 
 jouillards (des), E. 1. 
 kaiit, F. 0. 
 
 ^xclles (de), D. 1. 
 clierie (de la). E. 4. 
 ffauU, E. 2. 
 flon, F. 5. 
 
 fgcaiid (av.), A. 2. 3. 
 *lsson St-Louis (du), G.2. 
 ci (de), E. D. 4. 
 ci (carrefour), D. 4. 
 
 Ues (des), II. 5. 
 lies Chaumont (square 
 es), G. 2. 
 
 lUcs Chaumont (des), 
 t I. 2. 
 
 roll (avenue Lord), B. 2. 
 det, E. 2. 
 det (place), E. 2. 
 dfarelli, F. 3. 
 ire (du), E. 3. 
 ire (place et passage 
 11), E. 2. 
 lais (de), D. I. 
 luibacdrcs. C. 2. 
 nihrai (place), E. 5. 
 inilironne (pi.), B. 5. 
 (de), B. 5. 
 
 inipagne - Premiere, D. 
 . G. 
 
 nipo-Formio, F. O. 
 nal St-Martin(du),F. I. 
 nettes (des), D. 4. 
 inivet (du), 1). 4. 
 piicincs (des), D. 3. 
 ipiicines (l)d.des),D. 2. 3. 
 pucins (rue ct place 
 es), E. G. 
 
 irdinal Lemoine, E. 5. 
 .' 4. 5. 
 
 irdinale, D. 4. 
 irdinet, C. 1. 
 l ilies (des), E. 4. !>, ~ 
 
 I Mouffelard, F. G. 
 irnot, D. 5. 
 iron, F. 4. 
 rre Marigny, C. ,3. 
 rri6rcs(des), A. 3. 
 rrouscl (place), f). 3. 
 irronscl (iiontdii), D, 4. 
 ^simir Delnvigne, E. 4. 
 Siniir Pdrier, C. 4. 
 jssettc, D. 4. 5. 
 ssini, E. 6, 
 
 OF STREETS, SQUARES, 
 
 Castellanc, U. 2. 
 
 Castex, F. 4. 
 
 Castiglione (de), D. 3 
 Catacoinhcs, U. E. 6. 
 Catherine (Ste-), E. 5. 
 Catinat (de), E. 3. 
 Cauniartin, D. 2. 
 
 Cdcile (Ste-), E. 2. 
 Ceinturc (de), F. I. 
 Celestins (qiiai des), F. 4. 
 Cendrier (du), F. G. 
 Censier, E. F. 5 
 Centre (dii), B. 2. 
 
 Cerisaie (de la), F. 4. 
 Chabannais (de), D. 3. 
 Chabrol (de), E. F. 2. 
 Chabrol, Grenello, B. 4. 
 Chaillot (de), B. 2. 3. 
 Chaise (de la), D. 4. 
 Clialigny, C. 5. 
 
 Chalgrin, A. B. 2. 
 
 Chalons (de), G. 5. 
 Chanipagny, C. 4. 
 
 Champ de I’Alouette (du), 
 K. G. 
 
 — d’Asile, D. G. 
 Champ-de-Mars (du), B.4. 
 Champ-de-iMars, B. 4. 
 Champs (dcs)^ A. 3. 
 Chani])s-Elysees (des), see 
 Boissy d’Anglas. 
 Chamiis- Ely, sees (avenue 
 des), B. 2. C. 2. 3. 
 Chanaleilles, C. 4. 
 
 Change (pout au), E. 4. 
 Chanoinesse, E. 4. 
 Chaiitiers (des), F. 5. 
 Chantres (des), E. 4. 
 Chapelle (pi. de la), F. I. 
 Chapclle (bd, de la), F. 1. 
 Chapelle (de la Salute-), 
 E. 4. 
 
 Chapelle (com- de la Ste-), 
 au Palais, E. 4. 
 
 Chapon, F. 3. 
 
 Chaptal, U. I. 
 Cliarboiiniere (de la), 
 E. F. 1. 
 
 Charbonniers (des), G. 5. 
 Charbonniers (des), fau- 
 bourg St-Marccau, E. S. 
 Cliarenlon (do), G. 4. 5. 
 H. G. 
 
 Charenton (route de), II. G. 
 Charlemagne, F. 4. 
 Charles v., F. 4. 
 
 Charles (SI-), E. 
 
 Chariot, F. 3. 
 
 Chariot, Ternes, B. 2. 
 
 ETC. iii 
 
 Charonne (de), G. H. 4. 
 
 — boulevard dc), H. 4. 
 Charpentier, I). 4. 
 Cliarrctiere, E. 5. 
 
 Chartres (galeric dc), Pa- 
 lais-Royal, E. 3. 
 Chdteau-d'Eau (du), F. 
 
 2. 3. 
 
 Chatcaubriant (av.), B. 2. 
 Clidteau-Landon, F’. 1. 
 Chateau-Rouge (du), E. f. 
 Chatelet (place du), E. 4. 
 Chatigny, G. 5. 
 
 Chanchat, E. 2. 
 
 Chandron, F. f. 
 
 Chaume (du), F. 3. 4. 
 Chauss6e-d’Antin, D. 2. 
 Chaussee - des - Miniines 
 (de la), F. 4. 
 
 Chaussde-du-Maine (ave- 
 nue de la), D. 5. 6. 
 Cliausson (passage), F. 2. 
 Chauveau-Lagarde, D. 2. 
 Chazellcs, C. 1. 2. 
 
 Chemin de ter (avenue 
 du), C. 5. 6. 
 
 — (du), C. 6. 
 
 Chemin de fer de Paris ii 
 Corbeil,a Orlcans,Tours, 
 Bordeaux, ct Nantes, F. 5. 
 Chemin de fer de Paris a 
 Lyon et Marseille, G. 5. 
 Chemin dc fer de Paris 
 a Sceaux, D. 6. 
 
 Chemin de fer de Paris A 
 St-Germain, a Rouen, 
 Dieppe et le Havre, D. 2. 
 Chemin de fer de Paris a 
 Strasliourg, F. 2. 
 
 Chemin de fer de Paris a 
 Versailles, left bank,D. 5. 
 
 — right bank, D. 2. 
 Chemin de fer du Nord 
 
 F. f. 
 
 Cliemin de for de Char- 
 tres et du Mans, D. 5. 
 Chemin de fer de Vin- 
 cennes, G. 4. 
 
 Chemin du Maine (av. 
 du), D. 6. 
 
 Chemin-Vert (du), G. 4. 
 Chemin Vicinal, H. 5. 
 Chenier, E. 3. 
 Cherchc-Midi, C. 5. D. 4. 5. 
 Cherubini, D. 3 
 Chevalcrot (du), F. G. 6. 
 Chevert, C. 4. 
 
 Chevreuse, I). 5. 
 Childehert, D. 4. 
 
iv list 
 
 Clioiseul (de), D. 2. 3. 
 Choiscul (passage), D. 3. 
 Clioisy le Roi (route), 
 F. 0. 
 
 Cliopinctle (de la), G. 2. 
 Chous (pent aux), F. 4. 
 Christine, A. 15. 2. 
 Cimarosa, B. 3. 
 
 Cimetifire (du), H. 6. 
 Cirque (du), C. 2. 3. 
 Ciseaux (des), D. 4. 
 
 Citd (de la), E. 4. 
 
 — (quai de la), E. 4. 
 
 — (pout de la), E. 4. 
 
 — d^Antin, D. 2. 
 
 — Berrycr, D. 3. 
 
 — Josset, G. 4. 
 
 — Odiot,B.2. 
 
 — d’Orl6ans, D. 2. 
 
 — Riverin, F. 2. 3. 
 
 — Trdvise, E. 2. 
 
 — Vindd, D. 3. 
 
 Citcaux, G. 4. 5. 
 
 Clary (square), D. 2. 
 Claude (St-), Mar, F. 3. 
 Claude Lorrain, A. 5. 
 Clausel, E. 2. 
 
 Clef (de la), E. 5. 
 Clement, D. 4. 
 
 Cler, C. 4. 
 
 Clery (de), E. 3. 
 
 Clicliy (de), D. t. 2. 
 
 Clichy (de), av., C. D. t. 
 Clicliy (lid. de), D. E. l . 
 Clichy (place de), D. t. 
 Clignancourt, chaussde, 
 E. C 
 
 Clisson, F. 6. 
 Cloche-Perce, F. 4. 
 Cloitre N.-D. (du), E. 4. 
 
 St-Merri (du), E. 4. 
 
 — St-Ilonor6 (passage), 
 E. 3. 
 
 — St-Benoit, E. 4. 
 
 Clopin, E. 5. 
 Clos-Bruneau, E. 5 
 Clos-Gcorgeot (du), D. 3. 
 Clotaire, E. 5. 
 
 Clotilde, E. 5. 
 
 Clovis, E. 5. 
 
 Cochin, E. 6. 
 
 Colhert, E. 3. 
 
 Colbert ^passage), E. 3. 
 Coligny (de), F, 5. 
 Colonnes (des), E. 3. 
 Colysee (du), C. 2. 
 
 Comfetc (de la), C. 4. 
 Commerce (cour ei pas- 
 sage du), E. 4. 
 
 OF STREETS, SQUARES, 
 
 Commerce du Roule, 
 (cour du), C. 2 
 Commerce, Bcrcy, H. 6. 
 Commerce, Crenelle, B. 5. 
 Com pans, H. 2. 
 Concorde'lpl. de la),C. 3.4. 
 Concorde (pout de la), C.3. 
 Cond6 (de), D. 4. 
 Conference (quai),B. C. 3. 
 Conservatoire (du), E. 2. 
 Constantine, E. 4. 
 Constantine (pont), F. 4. S 
 Constantine, Chaiielle, 
 E. F. 1 . 
 
 — Montrouge, C. D. 6. 
 Constantinople, C. t. D. 2. 
 Condd, E. 4. 
 
 Conti (quai),E. 4. 
 Contrescarpe (hd.), F. 4. 5. 
 Copern ic, A. B. 3. 
 Coq-H6ron, E. 3. 
 Coqnillcre, E. 3. 
 
 Corheau, F. 2. G. 2. 
 Cordclihres (des), E. 6. 
 Cordiers (des), E. 5. 
 Corneille (de), E. 5. 
 Comes (des), F. 6. 
 Cossonnerie (de la), E. 3. 
 Cotte, G. 4. 5. 
 
 Courcelles (de), B. t. 2. 
 C. 3. 
 
 Courcelles (hd.),B. C. t. 2. 
 Couronnes (des),G. 2. 3. 
 Cours-la-Reine, C. 3. 
 Courtalon, E. 3. 
 
 Couity (dc),D. 3. 
 
 Coustou, D. t. 
 Coutures-St-Gervais, F. 3. 
 Crdhillon, E. 4. 
 
 Crillon, F. 4. 5. 
 
 Crimde (de), G. t. II. 2. 
 Croissant (du), E.'3. 
 
 Croix Boissiere, B. 3. 
 
 — (chcmln de la), H. 6. 
 
 — Jarry, G. 6. 
 
 — de - la - Bretonnerie 
 (Ste-), F. 4. 
 
 — Nivert, B. 5. 
 
 — des - Petits - Champs, 
 E. 3. 
 
 — Rouge (carrefour de 
 la), D. 4. 
 
 — Rouge, Gare, G. o, 
 
 du-Roule (de la), B. 2. 
 
 Croulcharhe (de), E. G. 
 Crozatier, G. 4. 3. 
 
 Crussol, F. G. 3. 
 
 Ciijas, E. 3. 
 
 Cullure-Ste»Calherine,F. 4 
 
 ETC. 
 
 Cuvier, F. S. j 
 
 Cygne (dii), E. 3. j 
 Oalayrac, D. 3. j 
 Rames, Ternes, B. 1.4 
 Barnes, MontmartreJI 
 Dames, Batignolles,|D 
 Dames de la Visitat 
 (des), D. 4. 
 
 Damiette (de), E. 3. 
 Dangeau, A. 4 . 
 
 Daily (impasse), C. I. 
 Dauhenton, E. F. 5. 
 Daumesnil (av.), G. H 
 
 — (place), 11. c. 
 Dauphin (du), D. 3. 
 Dauiihinc, E. 4. 
 Daiiphine (place), E. 4 ' 
 David, A. 3. 
 
 Davy, D. 1 . 
 DdJiarcadf're (du), A^ 
 Dehellcyme, F. 3. ^ 
 
 Decamps, A. 3. 
 Ddchargeurs (des), E.^l 
 Delaizement, A. I. 
 Delamhre, D. 3. 
 Delarochc, A. 3. 4. 
 Delessert, A. 4. B. 3.|? 
 Delorme (passage), Dj 
 Delta (du), E. i. 
 Demaisne, D. t. 
 Demours, B. t. j 
 DenaiiijF. 2. 
 
 Denis, St-), E. 3. 4. 
 Denis (St-) St-Ant< 
 H. 4. 5. 
 
 Denis (hd. St-), E. 
 Denis (du fg. St-), F. 
 Ddpart (du); D. 5. 
 Ddpartement (du), Fi 
 Deparcieux, D. 0. 
 Desaix, B. 4. 
 
 Desaix (quai), E. 4. 
 Deshordes Valmore, 
 Descartes, E. 5. 
 
 D6sir (passage du), 1 
 Deux Boules, E. 4. 
 Deux-Ecus (des), E. 3 
 Deiix-Ermites, E. 4. 
 Deux-Moulins (des), 
 Deux-Ponts (des), F. J 
 Deux-Portes - Sl-Sau 
 (des), E. 3. 
 
 Deux-Portes-St-Jean ( 
 
 E. 4. 
 
 Didier (St-), A. 3, 
 Domat, E. 4. 
 Dominique (St-), B. 
 
 ' 4. D. 4. 
 
 — passage, B, 4. 
 
LIST 
 
 r6, F. fl. 
 uai (de), D. i. 
 uane (dc la), F. 3. 
 able (pent au), E. 4. 
 ud6auville, E. F. 1. 
 fagon (du), D. 4. 
 lagon (cour du), D. 4. 
 foiiot, E. 2. 
 iicouedic, U. G. 
 ulong, C. 1. 
 ugay-Trouin, D. 5. 
 li Giicsclin, B. 4. 
 
 «m6ril, F. 6. 
 
 ■uinont d’Urville, B. 2. 
 imkcrque, E. F. 1. 2. 
 unois, F. G. G. 
 uperre, U. i . 
 uphot, D. 3. 
 lupin, 0. 4. 5. 
 uplcix, B. 4. 
 upleix (place), B. 4. 
 upont, B. 3 
 lupuis, F. 3. 
 lupuytren, E. 4. 
 luquesiie (av.), C. 4. 
 lui as (de), C. 2. 
 iiiroc, C. 5. 
 luvivier, C. 4. V 
 ible, C. 5, 
 
 ichaudG (do F), D. 4. 
 iclielle (de 1’), 1). 3. 
 Ichiquier dc F), E. 2. 
 icluses St-Marlin, F. 2. 
 Jcole (quai de F), E. 4, 
 Ccolc (place de F), D. 3. 
 IcoIe-de-Mddecine, E. 4- 
 Icolc Polyteclinique (de 
 F), E. 5. 
 
 kioles (dos), E. 4. S. 
 
 Scosse (d’), E. 5. 
 tcouffes (des), F. 4. 
 Jcuries d’Artois (des), 
 B. C. 2. 
 
 3glisc (bd. de F);, F. 0. 
 jglise (de F),Bat .,C. D. 1. 
 iglisc (pi. de F), Ilat., C. 1. 
 feoul (del’), faubourg St- 
 (jiermaiii, D, 4. 
 
 Jlisabetli (Ste-), E. 3. 
 jloy (St-), E. 4. 
 
 ^Iys6e (palais de),c. 3. 
 ilysdes (dc F), C. 3. 
 jnipcreur (avenue de F), 
 A. B. 3. 
 
 Snfants-Bouges, F. 3. 
 Infer (d’), D. C. li. 5. 
 
 :iifdr (boiilev, d^, d. 5 . g 
 
 infer (place d’), D. 6. 
 ingliien (d>), E. 2. 
 
 OF STREETS, SQUARES. ETC. V 
 
 Entrepdt (de F), F. 2. 3. 
 Entrepreneurs, B. 4. 5. 
 Ep6e-de-Bois (dc F), E. 5. 
 Eperon (de F), E. 4. 
 
 Erard, G. 5. G. 
 
 Erfurth (d’), U. 4. 
 Ernestine, F. i. 
 
 Essai (dc F), F. 6. 
 
 Estrees (d’), C. 4. 
 
 Etoilc (dc F), B. 2. 
 
 Etoilc (place de F), B. 2. 
 Eugene (boul.), A. 1. 
 Europe (place d’), D. 1. 
 Eustaclie (place St-), E. 3. 
 Evfique (F), O. 3. 
 
 Eylau (avenue dc), A. 3. 
 B. 2. 
 
 Eylau (place d’), A. 3. 
 Fabert, C. 3. 4. 
 Faisandcrie (de la), A. 
 2. 3. 
 
 Fargeau (St-), H. 2. 
 Fauconnier (du), F. 4. 
 Favart, E. 2. 
 
 Felibien, D. 4. 
 
 Fdlicitd (de la), C. 1. 
 Fenime-sans-T6te, F. 4. 
 F6nelon, E. 2. 
 Fcr-^-Moulin, E. F. G. 
 Ferdinand (St-), A. B. 2. 
 Ferdinand-Bertboud,F. 3. 
 Ferme-des-Mathurins (de 
 la), D. 2. 
 
 Ferou, D, 4. 5. 
 Ferronnerie (de la), E. 3. 
 Ferrus, E. G. 
 
 Fessard,G. H. 2. 
 Feuillade (la), E. 3. I 
 Feuillantines (des), E. 5. 
 Feydeau, E. 3. 
 
 Feydeau (galerie), passage 
 Panoramas, E. 3. 
 
 Fiacre (St-), E. 2. 3. 
 Figuier (du), F. 4. 
 Filles-Dicu (des), E. 3. 
 Filles-du-Calvaire, F. 3. 
 
 — (boulevard des), F. 3. 
 Filles-St-Tbonias (des), 
 E. 3. 
 
 Flandre (de), G. i ■ 
 Fiddlier, E. 2. 
 
 FlcuruS (de), D. 5 
 Florentin (St-), D 3. 
 
 Foil! (du), an Marais, F. 4. 
 Folic-Mdricoiirt, F. G. 3. 
 
 Rcgnault, G. 3. H. 4. 
 
 Fondary, B. 5. 
 Fontaine-au-Roi, F. G. 3. 
 Fontaine St. Georges, D. i. 
 
 Fontaine-Molidre, D. 3. 
 Fontainebleau (route), 
 F. G. 
 
 Fontaines (des), F. 3. 
 Fontaines (cour des), E. 3. 
 Fontarabic, II. 4. 
 Fontenoy (place de), C. 4. 
 Forest. D. 1 . 
 
 Forez (du), F. 3. 
 
 Forges (des), auCaire, E. 3 
 Fortin, C. 2. 
 Fosses-St-Bernard, F. 5. 
 — St -)Germain - I’Auxer- 
 rois (des), E. 3. 
 
 — St-Jacques (des),E. 5. 
 — St-Marcel, E. G. 
 
 — du-Teinple (des), G. 3. 
 Fouarre (du), E. 4. 
 Four-St-Germain, D. 4. 
 Four-St-Jacques, E. 5. 
 Fourcy-St-Antoine (de>, 
 F. 4. 
 
 Fourneaux (des), C. 5. 
 Fourrieaux (ch. des), C. G. 
 Foy (Ste-), E. 3. 
 
 Frangaise, E. 3. 
 
 Francois ler, B. 3. 4.1 
 
 — (place), C. 3. 
 Francs-Bourgeois. (des), 
 
 au Marais, F. 4 . 
 Francs-Bourgeois (des), 
 St-Marcel, F. 0. 
 Franklin, A. 3. 4. 
 Fresnel, E. 5. 
 
 Fricdland (avenue de), 
 B. C. 2. 
 
 Frochot, E. 1 . 
 
 Frondeurs (des), D. 3. 
 Fulton, G. 6. 
 Furstemberg, D. 4. 
 Gabriel (avenue), C. 2- 
 Gaillard, U. i. 
 
 Gaillon, D. 3. 
 
 Gaillon (carrefour). D 3!. 
 Gaitd, D. 5. 6. 
 
 — chcinin de la, C. 0. 
 Galande, E. 4. 
 
 Galildc, B. 2. 3. 
 
 Galvani, B. 1. 
 
 Gambey, G. 3, 
 Garancidre, 1>. 4. 5. 
 Gardes (des), E. 1. 
 
 Garc (bd. dc la), F. G. 6. 
 
 — (quai de la), G. G. 
 
 Garc (de la), F. 5. G. 
 Gastd, B. 3. 
 
 Gaullirin (passage), C. 5. 
 Gay-Lussac, E. 5. 
 Genevieve (S(e-), H, 2. 
 
VI 
 
 LIST OF STREETS, SQUARES, ETC 
 
 Genty (passagel, G, 5. 
 Gcntilly, E. F. 6 . 
 Geoffroy-l’Angevin, F. 3. 
 Geoffroy-l’Asnier, F. 
 Geoffroy-Mai-ic, E. 2 . 
 Geoffroy-St-Hilaire, F. 5. 
 Georges (St-), E. 2 
 Georges (pi. St-) D. E. 2. 
 GerFert, B. 4. 5 . ‘ 
 Germain (Marcli 6 St-),D .4 
 Germain (bd. St-), E.'a. 5. 
 F.5. 
 
 Germain-FAuxerrois (St-), 
 E.4. 
 
 Germain - I’Auxerrois 
 (place St-), E. 4. 
 
 Germain Pllon, D. E. 1 . 
 Gerson, E. 5. 
 
 Gervais (St-), F. 3. 4. 
 G6vres (qtiai de), E. 4. 
 Gilles (St-), F. 4. 
 
 Gindre (du, I). 4. 
 Git-le-C(Eur, E. 4. 
 ftlaciOre (de la), E. 6 
 Glatigny (de), E. 4 
 Gobelins (des), E. 0. 
 Godefroy, F. e. 
 Godot-de-Maiiroy, D. 2. 
 Gomboust, D. 3. 
 
 Goutte d’Or, E. F. 1. 
 Gozlin, D. 4. 
 
 Gracieuse, E. 5. 
 Grammont (de), 1), 2. 3. 
 Grand-Cerf (pass.dii), E. 3. 
 Grand-Chan tier, F. 3. 
 Grand-Hurlenr (du), E. 3. 
 Grand-Prieurd (du), F. 3. 
 Grand-St-Micliel, F. 2. 
 Grande Armde (avenue 
 de la), A. B. 2. 
 
 Grande - Chaumidre (de 
 la), D. 5. 
 
 Grande, Cbapellc, F. 1. 
 Grande, Passy, A. 4. 
 Grande, Auteuil, A. 4. 
 Grands-Augustins (des), 
 E. 4. 
 
 Grands - Augustins (quai 
 des), D. 4. 
 
 Grands-Dcgrd? (des), E. 4. 
 Grandc-Truanderie, E. 3. 
 Grange aux Belles, F. G. 2. 
 Grange-Batelidrc, E. 2. 
 Gravilliers (des), F. 3. 
 Grcffuhle, D. 2. 
 
 Grdgoire de Tours, E. 4. 
 Grenelle-St-Germain,B. C. 
 D. 4. 
 
 Grenclle-St-Honor6, E. 3. 
 Crenelle (quai de), B. 4. 
 
 Crenelle (boul. de),B. 4.5. 
 C. 5. 
 
 Crenelle, e Crenelle, 
 B. 4. 5. 
 
 — (pent do), A. B. 4. 
 Greneta, E. F. 3. 
 
 • Grenier-St-Lazare, E. F. 3. 
 Grenier-sur-PEau, F. 4. 
 Grdtry, E. 2. 
 
 Greuze, A. 3. 
 
 Greve (quai de la), E. F. 4. 
 Gribeauval, D. 4. 
 
 Gril (du), E. 5. 
 
 Gros, A. 4. 
 
 Gueni6n6e (impasse), F. 4. 
 Guendgaud, E. 4. 
 Gudrin-Boisseau, F. 3. 
 Guillaume,,D. 4. 
 Guillaume (St-), D. 4. 
 Guillaume (cour St-),D. 3. 
 Guillot, B. C. 1. 
 
 Guisarde, D. 4. 
 Guy-Labrosse, F. 5. 
 
 Haies (des), 11. 4. 
 
 Halevy, D. 2. 
 
 Halle au Bid, E. 3. 
 
 Halid, D. G. 
 
 Halles Centrales, E. 3. . 
 Hambourg (de), C. 2 
 Hanovre (de), 1). 2. 
 
 Harlay (de), au Marais, 
 F 3. 
 
 Harlay du Palais, E. 4. 
 Harpe (de la), E. 4. 
 
 Hasard (du), D. 3. 
 Haussmann (boul.),C.D.2. 
 Haulefcuille, E. 4. 
 Hautcville, E. 2. 
 
 Hautpoul (d’), H. 2. 
 
 Havre (passage du),D. 2. 
 Havre (rue et place du), 
 D. 2. 
 
 Haxo, H. 2. 
 
 Helder (du), I). 2. 
 Henri-Quatre (place de), 
 Pont-ueuf, E. 4. 
 Henri-Quatre (quai),F.4.5. 
 Hdrold, A. 4. 
 
 Hirondelle (de P) E. 4. 
 Hippolyte (St-), E. 6. 
 Hoche, B. 4. 
 
 Holzbacher (cite et pas- 
 sage), G. 3. 
 
 Ilomme-Armd (de P),F. 4. 
 llonord-Clievalicr, 1). 5. 
 Honord (St-), 1). E. 3. 
 llonord (cloUrc St-),H. 3 
 Honord (marcbd St-), on 
 des Jacol)ins, D. 2. 3. 
 Honord(du faubourg St-), 
 
 B. C. 2. D. 3. 
 Hdpital (bd. deP),. 
 Hdpilal (place de p' 
 HoiToge (galerie 
 pres I'Opdra, E. 2.^ 
 Horinge (quai de P)1 
 Hospi talieres - Saint 
 vais, F. 4. 'i 
 
 H6lel-Colbert (de PQ 
 H6tcl-des-Fermes (m 
 de P), E. 3. 1 
 
 H6tel-dc-Ville (de P); 
 Hdtel de Ville (j 
 Batignollcs, D. 1 . ' 
 Hdtel-dc-ville (plai 
 P), E. 4 
 
 Hdtel-Dieu, E. 4. 
 Houdon, E. 1. 
 Huchette (de la), E 
 Humboldt, E. 0. 
 Hyacinlhe (St-),St-j 
 rd, U. 3. 
 
 Idna (d>), C. 3. 4. 
 Idna (avenue d’), D 
 Idna (pout d’), B. 3/ 
 He Louviers (de P), 
 Impdratrice, D. 3. 
 Impdratrice (av. 
 
 A. B. 2. 
 
 Industrie (pass, de ! 
 Industrie (bazar del 
 Ingres (av.), A. 4. 
 Innocents (des), E. ; 
 Innocents (sq. des) 
 Invalides (bd. des),C 
 Invalides (pent des) 
 Invalides (esplanade 
 
 C. 3 4. 
 
 Irlandais (des), E. 5 
 Isly (passage de P), 
 Isly (de P), D. 2. 
 Italic (boulevard d’) 
 — (place d’), F. G. 
 Italiens (bd. des), D 
 Jacob, D. 4. 
 
 Jacquart, G. 3. 
 Jacques de Brosse, I 
 Jacques (St-), E. 4 5 
 Jacques (bd. St-) D. 
 Jacques (du faubour 
 
 E. 6. 
 
 Jacques de la Boiu 
 (square and tour), 
 Jacqucs-PHdpilal (St 
 Jardin et ga lories du ! 
 Royal, E. 3. 
 
 Jardin du Luxcml 
 
 D. E. 5. 
 
 Jardin des Plantes, ] 
 Jardinct (du), E. 4. 
 
Vii 
 
 LIST 
 
 rdii)s (des), F. 4. 
 rente, 4. 
 vel (qnai de), A- 4- 5. 
 an-Baptiste (St-), C. 2. 
 an-Bart, 1). 5. 
 an-Beausirc, F. 4. 
 an Bologna, A. 4. 
 an-Bouton,G.5. 
 lan-de-Beauvais (St-), 
 !. 4. 5. 
 
 lan-Gonjon, C. 3. 
 fan-J. Rousseau, E. 3. 
 ean-Lantier, E. 4. 
 
 Ban Robert, F. t. 
 eanne d'Arc (pi.), F- 6. 
 bannisson, D. 3. 
 ^mmapes (quai de), F. 
 i. 2. 3. 
 
 jssaint (de), F. t. 
 evineurs (des), E. 3. 
 oinville (passage), G. 2. 
 olivet, D. S. 
 oquelet, E. 3. 
 pseph (St-), E. 3. 
 jsephine (avenue), B.2.3. 
 asset (cil6 ct pass.), G. 4 
 oubert, D. 2. 
 puffroy, F. 3. 
 ouftioy (passage), E. 2. 
 our (du), E. 3. 
 ouvenet, A. 3. 
 ouy (de), F. 4. 
 uges-Consuls (des), E. 4. 
 uifs (des), F. 4. 
 uillet (du 29) D. 3. 
 ules Cesar, F. 4. 
 ulien-le-Pauvre(St-),E. 4 
 ulienne,-E. 6. 
 ussienne (de la), E. 3. 
 ussieu, F. 5. 
 
 nstice (place du Palais 
 
 le). E. 4. 
 
 ustice (palais de), E. 4. 
 .eller, G. 4 
 .eppler B. 3. 
 
 IBber, B. 4. 
 abeaunie, C. 2. 
 abordc, C. D. 2. 
 ^bruyere, D. 2. 
 pedpMe, E. F. 5, 
 acu6e, F. 5. 
 atayeltc, E. 2. F. i. 2. 
 afayette (place), E. 2. 
 alciTi^re, D. E. 2. 
 aflitle, E. 2. 
 a Fontaine, A. i. 
 agny (<le), II. 4. 3. 
 eniarre, B. i. 2. 
 amartine, H. 2. 
 ancelle (de la), II. 6. 
 
 OF STREETS, SQUARES, 
 
 Lanery (de), F. 2. 
 
 Landry (St-), E. 4. 
 Laplace, E. 5. 
 
 Larrey,'F. 4. 
 
 Las-Cases, D. 4. 
 Latour-Maubourg (boule- 
 vard), C. 3. 4. 
 
 Laugier, B. t. 
 
 Laurent (St-), F. 2. 
 Lanriston. A. 3. B. 2. 3. 
 Laval, E. t. 
 
 Lavandieres (des), E. 4 . 
 Lavoisier, C. 2 . 
 
 Lazare (St-), D. E. 2. 
 Leclcrc, D. 6 
 Lecourbe, B. C. S. 
 Legendre, C. D. L 
 Legraverend, G. 5. 
 Lekain, A. 4 
 Lemarrois, A. 5. 
 Lenicrcier, D. i. 
 
 Lemoine (passage), E. 3. 
 Lenoir, faubourg St-An- 
 toine, G. 4. 
 
 Ldonie, 0. 1 
 Lepelletier, E. 2. 
 Lepelleticr (quai), E. 4. 
 Lepic, D. i. 
 
 Leroux, A. 2. 
 LesdiguiBres, F. 4, 
 Lesueur, A. 13. 2. 
 
 Levert, H. 2. 
 
 Leyissc, E. I . 
 
 Levis, C. t. 
 
 Libert, H. e. 
 
 Lilas (des), H. 2 
 Lille (de), C. D. 3. 4. 
 Limace (de la), E, 4. 
 Lingerie (de la), E. 3. 
 Linnd, F. 5. 
 
 Linois, B. 4. 
 Lions-St-Paul, F. 4. 
 Lisbonne (de), C. 2. 
 Lobau, E. F. 4. 
 
 Lobineau, D. 4. 
 
 Lodi (du pont de), D. 4. 
 Loire, quai de la, G. t. 
 Lombards (des), E. 4. 
 Londres (de), D. 2. 
 Longchamp (de), A. 3. 
 Longebamp (boul. de), A. 3 
 Lord Byron, B. 2. 
 Louis-lc-Grand, D, 2, 3. 
 Louis (St-), Grenelle, 
 
 B. 4. 5. 
 
 Louis (lie St-), E. F. 4. 
 Louis (St-), E. F. 4. 
 Louis-Pbilippe, G. 4. 
 Louis-Pliilippe (pont),F,4. 
 Lourcine (de), E. C. 
 
 ETC. 
 
 Louvois, E. 3. 
 
 Louvois (place), E. .3 
 Louvre (du), E. 3. 4. 
 Louvre (palais du), E. 3. 4. 
 Louvre (quai du), E. i 
 Louvre place du), G. 3 
 Louvre (pont du), ou des 
 Arts, E. 4. 
 
 Loyvendal (avenue), 1! r. 
 
 C. 4. 
 
 Lubeck, B. 3. 
 
 Lully, E. 3. 
 
 Lune (de la), E. 3. 
 Luxembourg (de), D. 3. 
 
 — avenue du, D. E. 5. 
 Lyon (de), F. 4, 5. 
 Lyonnais (des), E. 6. 
 Mabillon, D. 4. 
 
 MAcon, G. 6. 
 
 Magons (des), E. 4. 
 Madame, D. 4. 5. 
 Madeleine (de la). .S''C 
 
 Boissy d’Anglas .-nil 
 Pasquier. 
 
 Madeleine (bd. dela),l>. 3. 
 Madeleine (place), D. 2 3. 
 Mademoiselle, B. 5. 
 Madrid (de), C. D. 2. ■ 
 Magdebourg (de), B 3 
 Magenta (bd.),E, I. F,2. t 
 Mail (du), E. 3. 
 
 Maillot, Porte, A. 2. 
 Maine (chaussde du), l>. 
 5. 6. 
 
 — jdace du, D. 5. 
 
 — (av. du), C. D- 5. 
 
 Mairie (de la), A. t. 
 Maitre-Albcrt, E. 4. 
 Malakoff, avenue, A. 2 3. 
 Malaquais (quai), I). 4 
 Malar, C. 3. 
 
 Maleslierbes, C. t. 2. 
 Maleslierbcs (bd.), C 1 ■ ; 
 
 D. 2. 
 
 Malcsherbes (place), ( . 1 
 Mallier, F. 4. 
 
 Malte (de), G. 3. 
 
 Mandar, E. 3. 
 
 Maude (avenue St-), II “> 
 Mansart, D. 1. 
 
 Marais (des), faubourg St 
 Martin, F. 2. 3. 
 
 Marais (entrepdt des) an 
 canal, F. 3. 
 
 Marbeuf, B. C. 3 
 Marbeuf (allce), B C ,3. 
 Marc (St-), E. 2. 
 
 Marcel (Si-), E. G. 
 
 — (boulevard), E. F. 0. 
 Marchd (du), -A. 1. 
 
II 
 
 LIST 
 
 Marclii' (l’Aguesseau,C. 2 . 
 
 — Kcauvcau, G. 5 . 
 
 aux-aievaux,F. C. 
 
 — aux-FleurSj E. 4 . 
 
 anx-Fourragos. D. 5, 
 
 — aux-Vcanx^ E. 4. 5. 
 
 -- ties Cannes, E. 4. 5. 
 
 Nenf (quai), E. 4. 
 
 St-Gennain, I). 4. 
 
 — St-Gervais, F. 4 . 
 
 — St-Hoiiore, I). ;i. 
 
 — de la Vallec, E. 4. 
 
 St-Mai'tin, F. 3 . 
 
 Marengo, E. 3 . 
 
 Marguerite (Ste-), lau- 
 
 boiirg St-Antoine, G. 4 . 
 Marie (ponl), F. 4. 
 
 Starie (Stc-), 4 Cliaillot, 
 B. 3. 
 
 Marie (Ste-), Ternes, 
 A. B.2. ’ 
 
 Marie (passage Stc-),' fau- 
 bourg St.-Germain, D. 4. 
 Marie-Stuart, E. 3. 
 Marigrian (de), C. 3 . 
 Alarigny (avenue), C. 2. 3 
 Marivaux, E. 2. 
 Marmoiisets (des),E. 4 . 
 Maroc idii), F. G. 1 . 
 Marquefoy, F, 2 . 
 
 Marseille (de), F. 2- 
 Marseille, Viliette, G. t. 
 Marsollier, D. 3 . 
 
 Martel, E. F. 3. 
 
 Martignac, C. 4 . 
 
 Marthe (Ste-), T). 4 . 
 
 Martin (St-), E. 3. 4. F. 3. 
 Martin (St-), canal, F. 
 1 . 2 . 
 
 Martin (bd. St-), F. 3. 
 Martin (du faubourg St-), 
 F. 1. 2. 
 
 Martyrs (des), E. 1 . 2. 
 
 Ma rtyrs (chaus 6 e des), E. I 
 Masseran, C. 5. 
 
 Massillon, E. 4. 
 
 4latburins (des), E. 4. ii. 
 Matignon (av.), B. 2. C. 3. 
 Matignon, C. 2. 3 . 
 
 Maubert (place), E. 4. 
 Maubeuge (de), E. F. i. 
 iMaiibude, E. F. 3. 
 Mauconscil, E. 3 . 
 
 Main- (St-) Popincourt, F. 
 2. G. 2. 3. 4. 
 
 Maur (St-), faubourg St- 
 (ierniain, D. 5 . 
 
 Maurc (du), E. 3 . 
 
 Maiivais Garfons (des). 
 
 OF STREETS, SQUARES, 
 
 Mayet, C. 5. 
 
 Mazagran, E. 2. 
 
 — (impasse), E. 2. 
 Mazarine, E. 4. 
 
 Mazas (bd.), F. G. H. 5. 
 Mazas (place), F. 5. 
 
 Msaiix (de), G. 1.2. 
 Mechaiii, E. 6. 
 
 Medieis, E. 5. 
 
 Megisserie (quai), E. 4. 
 M6hul, D. 3. 
 
 Mdriars, E. 3. 
 Mdiiilinontant (chaussde 
 
 de), G. If. 3. 
 
 — (boulev. de), G. U. 3 . 
 Mercier, E. 3. 
 
 Mercoeur, G. 4. 
 
 Meslay, F. 3. 
 
 Messageries (des), E. 2. 
 Messageries - Impdriales 
 
 (coin- des), E. 3. 
 
 Messine (de), C. 2. 
 
 Metz (de), F. 2. 
 
 Meiiniers (ch. des), H. 6. 
 Mdziferes, D. 4. 
 Michel-lc-Comle, F. 3. 
 Michel (place du pent 
 St-),E.4. 
 
 Michel (porit St-), E. 4 
 Michel (bd. St-), E. 4. 5. 
 Michel (quai St-), E. 4 . 
 Michel-Ange, A. 5. 
 Michodici c (de la), D. 2. 3. 
 Mignon, E. 4. 
 
 Milan (do), D. 2. 
 
 Miniincs (des), F. 4. 
 Miollis, B. C. 5. 
 
 Miracles (place du Caire), 
 E. 3. 
 
 Miromcsnil, C. 2. 
 Mogador, D. 2 . 
 
 Moines (des), C. D. i. 
 Moincaux (des), D. 3. 
 Molay, F. 3. 
 
 Molibre, .A. 4. 
 
 Moliftre (passage), E. 4. 
 Monceau (de), B. C. 2, 
 Monceau (pare de), C. 2. 
 Moncey, D. 1.2. 
 Monddtour, E. 3. 
 
 Mondovi (dc), D. 3. 
 Monjol, G. 2. 
 
 Monnaie (de la), E. 4. 
 Monsieur (de), C. 4. 
 Monsieur-le-Prinee,E. 4.5. 
 Monsign y, D. 3. 
 Moniagne'-Ste - Genevieve 
 (dc la), E. 5. 
 
 Montaigne (dc), C. 2 . 3. 
 Montaigne, (Av.), B. C 3, 
 
 ETC. j 
 
 Montebello (quai), U 
 Montesquieu, E. 3. | 
 Montesquieu (pasf 
 E. 3. 1 
 
 Montfaucon, D. 4. | 
 
 Montgallct, 11. 5. | 
 
 Montgollier, F. 3. 1 
 
 Montholon (squarc)jt 
 Monthyon, E. 2. > 
 
 Montmartre (cimeff 
 
 D. 1. i 
 
 Montmartre (bouleiB 
 
 E. 2. ; 
 
 Montmartre, E. 2. 
 Montmartre (du j 
 
 bourg), E. 2. ! 
 
 Montmorency, E. FJj 
 Montorgucil, E. 3. j 
 Mont-Parnasse (cinji 
 re), D. 5. G. I 
 
 Mont-Parnasse (du), 
 Mont - Parnasse (1 
 vard), C. D. 5. ’’ 
 
 Montpensier (galeri|| 
 lais-Royal, 1). E. 3. ( 
 Montpensier, D. E. 
 Montreu.il (dc), G. I 
 Montrouge (bd. de), 
 Mont Rozier, A, 1. 1 
 Mont-Thabor (du), ( 
 Morand, G. 3. | 
 
 Moreau, G. 5. 
 Morillons (des), B. ' 
 Morland (boulev.), I 
 Mornay, F. 4. 
 
 Morny (dc), C. 2. 
 Moscou (de), 1». 1. 
 Mothe-Piquet (avert 
 la), B. C. 4. 
 Mouffelard, E. 5. 0. 
 Moulin, II. 5. 
 Moulin-Vcrt (du), II 
 Moulins (des), 1). 3. 
 Moulins, Chaumoiit, 
 Moussy (dc), F. 4. 
 Muettc (de la), G. II, 
 Mulcts (des), I). 3. 
 Mulhousc (dc), E. 3. 
 Muricr (du), E. 5. 
 Nancy (de), F. 2. 
 Naples (de), C. 2. 
 Napoleon (cit6), E. 1 
 Napoleon III.(placcl 
 Napoleon (quai), E. 
 — (pont), G. C. 
 Nationalc, F. G. 
 Navarin (dc), E. 2. 
 Necker, MarclKi S( 
 tlicrinc, F. 4. 
 
 NecUcr (liGpiial), ('.. 
 
IX 
 
 list; 
 
 j-ier, C. 4. 
 
 aours (cour ct galeric 
 Jjj Palais-Royal, E. 3. 
 Dours (de), G. 3. 
 if (poiil), E. 4. 
 ^lly(avemiede),A. 1.2 
 lilly (lioulev.l, B. C. i. 
 |vc-Bourg-l’Ai)i)6, E. 3. 
 des-Bons-Eufants,E. 3. 
 des-CapuciiiGS, D. 3. 
 iCoquenard, E. 2. 
 des-Mathurins, D. 2. 
 
 (e I’Universitd, D. 4. 
 des-Petits-Champs, D. 
 4. 
 
 des-Pelits-Piires, E. 3. 
 Eonlainc-St- George, 
 
 . 1 . 
 
 Guilleniin, D. 4. 
 
 Lappe, G. 4. 
 ■Rlonlniorency, E. 2. 
 ■Kolre-Dame, E. 4. 
 ■Popincourt, G. 3. 
 .St-Augustin, D. 3. 4. 
 .Ste-Catherine, E. 4. 
 -St-Etieiine, E. F. S. 
 «St->l6dard, E. 5. 
 -St-Merri, E. 3. 4. 
 -St-Sauveur, E. 3. 
 -de-la-Vierge, B. 4. 
 rers (de), E. 4. 
 wton, B. 2. 
 
 30 lai, II. 6. 
 
 lolas (St-), Chaussde- 
 Anlin, D. 2. 
 
 3 olas (St-), faubourg St- 
 ntoiiie, G. 4. 
 
 3 olas - du - Cliardonnet 
 »-), E. 5. 
 
 3olas-Flamel, E. 4. 
 colet, C. 3. 
 polo, A. 3. 4. 
 cot, C. 3. 
 
 >llet, C. U. I. 
 iginains d’Hybres (des), 
 
 lu- 
 ll'd (place du), E. i. 
 jrinandie (dc), F. 3. 
 
 )tre - Dame - de-Bonne- 
 rouvclle, E. 2. 3. 
 
 -de- Grace, Cliauss6e- 
 I’Anlin, D. 2. 
 ,-de-Loreltc, D. i. 2. 
 
 I- -■ 
 
 -Nazaretli, F. 3. 
 |-Rccouvrance, E. 2. 
 
 .1 des GlianipSj D. 5. 
 
 - des Victoires, E. 3. 
 *(pont), E. 4. 
 
 OF STREETS, SQUARES, ETC. 
 
 Ifoyers (des), E. 4. 
 OberKanipf, F. G. 3. 
 
 Oldin, E. 3. 
 
 Observatoire, D. 6. 
 Obscrvatoirc (carref(>ur 
 de F), D. E. 5. 
 
 — (avenue de F), D. 6. 
 Oddon (de F), E. 4. 
 
 Odeon (place de F), E. 4. 
 Oddon (carrefour), E. 4. 
 Odiot (cild), B. 2. 
 
 Olivier, D. E. 2. 
 
 Ombasle (d>), B. 0. 
 
 Opera (passage de F), E.2. 
 Opportune (place Sle-), 
 
 Oran (d'), E. F. 1. 
 Orangcrie (de F),E. S. 
 Oratoirc-du-Roule (de F), 
 B. C. 2. 
 
 Oraloire (de F), St-Hono- 
 rd, E. 3. 
 
 Orfevrcs (des), E. 4. 
 Orfevres (qiiai des), E. 4. 
 Orillon (dc F), G. 2. 3. 
 Orleans (d’l, G. 1 . 
 
 — (d>), Bcrcy, G. G. 
 
 — (route d’), D. 6. 
 
 Orldans (citd d’), D. 2. 
 Orldans-St-llonore, E. 3. 
 Orldans (galerie d’), Pa- 
 lais-Royal, E. 3. 
 
 Orldans (quai d’), E. F. 4. 
 Orme (de F), F. 4. 
 Ormeaux (des), H. 4. 
 Ornies (quai des), F. 4. 
 Orsay (quai d’) B. 3. 4. 
 C. D. 3. 
 
 Orties (des), D. 3. 
 
 Oseille (de F), au Marais, 
 F. 3. 
 
 Oudinot, C. 4. 
 
 Ouen (St-), avenue, D. 1. 
 Oucst (dc F), D. 5. 
 
 — (Sablonvillc), A. 1. 
 
 — Maine, C. D. 0. 
 
 Oureq, canal de F), G. 1. 
 Ours (aux), E. 3. 
 
 Pagevin, E. 3. 
 
 Paillet, E. 5. 
 
 Paix (de la), 11. 3. 
 
 Paix (de la) Bat., D. 1. 
 Pajol, F. 1. 
 
 Pajou), A. 4. 
 
 Palais (lie du), E. 4. 
 Palais-Bourbon(placc du), 
 C. 3. 
 
 Palais de FInslitut (place 
 du), U. 3. 
 
 Palais (bd. du), E. 4. 
 
 Palais de Flndustrie,C. 3. 
 Palais-Royal, E. 3. 
 Palatine, D. 4. 
 
 Panoramas (passage des), 
 E. 2. 
 
 Panthdon, E. 5 
 Panthdon (place du), E. 5 
 Pantin (cbemin dc la 
 Barriere de), 11. 2. G. 2. 
 Papillon, E. 2. 
 
 Papin, E. 3. 
 
 Paradis (dc), faubourg St’ 
 Denis, E. F. 2. 
 
 Paradis (de), Mar., F. 3. 4. 
 Parc (du), A. 1. 
 Parclicminerie (dela),E. 4 
 Parc-Royal (du), F. 4. 
 
 Paris (Courcelles), C. 1. 
 
 — (St-Gerv.), G. II. 2. 
 
 — (quai), A. B. 4. 
 
 Parme (de), D. 1. 
 Parmentier (avenue), G .3 
 Parvis-Notre-Dame (place 
 
 du), E. 4. 
 
 Pascal, E. 6. 
 
 Pas-de-la-Mule (du), F. 4. 
 Passages, see their names 
 Pasquier, I). 2. 
 
 Pastourclle, F’. 3. 
 
 Paul belong, E. 3. 
 
 Paul (St-), F. 4. 
 
 —(quai et port St-). F. 4. 
 Pauquet dc Villejust, B 3. 
 Pavde, au Marais, F. 4. 
 Payenne, F'. 4. 
 
 Peclet, B. 5. 
 pdlerins-St-Jacques, E i 
 Pdlican (du), E. 3. 
 
 Pelletier (quai), E. 4. 
 Pentagonalc (pi.), C. 1. 
 Pcnlhidvrc (de), C, .. 
 Popinievc (de la), C U 2 
 Perede-St-Antoine, F. 1. 
 Perceval, D. 6. 
 
 Pcrclie (du), F. 3. 
 
 Percier (avenue), C. 2. 
 Pereire (boulev.), A. B. ’ 
 Perc-la-Cbaise (cimetifu ) 
 11. 3. 4. 
 
 Peres (des Sts-), D. 4. 
 Pdres (pout des Sts-), !>. ' 
 Pergolcse, A. 2. 
 
 Pdrier, A. B. I. 
 
 Perignon (dc), C. 3. 
 
 Perle (dc la), F. 3. 4. 
 Pernelle, E. 'i. 
 
 Perouse (dc la), B- 2. 3. 
 Perpignan (de),E. 4, 
 
X 
 
 L»ST 
 
 Perron (passage d Pa- 
 lais Royal, E. 3. 
 Pcrronet, A. I. 
 
 Perronef, D. 4. 
 PetersPourg (deSt-).0, 1 . 2 
 Petit, H. 1 . 
 
 — Carreau (dii), E. 
 
 — Lion (do), St-Sa' 'f or, 
 E. 3. 
 
 — Moine (du), E. 6. 
 
 — Muse (do), E. 4 
 
 — Pont (du), E. 4. 
 
 — Thouars (du), F. 3. 
 Pctite-Corderie, F. 3. 
 
 — rue dll Banquier, F. 6. 
 
 — Rue St-Pierre. F. 4 . 
 
 — Ecuries (des), E. F. 2. 
 
 — Ecuries (passage des), 
 E.2. 
 
 — H6tcls (des), E. F. 2. 
 
 — Peres (passage des), 
 
 E.3. 
 
 — P^res (place des), E. 3 , 
 Pdtrcllc, E. 1 , 
 Plidlippcaux, F. 3. 
 Philippe de Girard, F. 1. 
 Philippe (passage St-), du 
 Route, C. 2 
 
 Philippe (St-), Bonne- 
 Nouvelle, E. 3. 
 
 Picard, G. 6. 
 
 Piepus (de), H. S. 
 
 Picpiis (boulevard de),lT.5. 
 Pierre (pass. St-), F. G. 3. 
 
 — (St-), Popincourt, F.3.4 
 
 — (St-), Mtre , E. 3. 
 
 ~ Assis, E. 6. 
 
 — au-Lard, E. 4. 
 
 — Lescot, E. 3. 4. 
 
 — LevPe, G. 3. 
 
 — Lombard, E. 6. 
 
 — Sarrazin, E. 4. 
 
 Pigalle, D. 1 . 2. 
 
 Pigallc (place), E. 1. 
 
 Pinel, F. 0. 
 
 Pirouette, E. 3. 
 
 Places (see their names) 
 Placide (Ste-), D. 4. 5 
 Planchette ( impassse de 
 la), F 3. 
 
 Plantes (eh. des), D. 6. 
 Plat-d’Etain (du), Ste-Op- 
 portune, E. 3. 
 Platrc(dii),Ste-Avoyc, F. 4 
 Pointe-St-Eustache (carre- 
 tour de la), E. 3. 
 
 Poirier (du), E. 3. 
 
 Poisson, A. 2. 
 PoissonniCre, E. 2. 3. 
 Poissonniers (des), E. 1 . i 
 
 OF STREETS, SQUARES, ETC. 
 
 JPoissonniCre (boulevard), 
 E. 2. 
 
 Poissonnifere (du fau- 
 bourg), E. 1. 2. 
 
 Poissy (de), E. 4. S. 
 Poitevins (des), E. 4. 
 Poitiers (do), D. 4. 
 
 Poitou, F. 3. 
 
 Police (prefecture de),E .4 
 Polivcaii, F. 5. 
 Polvteclinique (de I’Ecole) 
 E. 5. 
 
 Pompc (de la), Passy, 
 A. 2. 3. 
 
 Pompe (pass.), B. 3 . 
 Ponceau (dii), E. F. 3 
 Pont-Loiiis-Philippe, F. 4 . 
 
 - (Petit), E. 4 
 
 — a ux-B iches-St-Marcel , 
 E.F. 4. 5. 
 
 — aux-CIioiix (du), F. 3 . 
 
 dc-Lodi (du), E. 4 , 
 
 — Neuf (passage du) E. 4 . 
 
 — (place du), E. 4 . 
 
 Ponts (see their names). 
 Ponthieu (de), C. 2. 
 Pontoisc (de), E. 4 
 Popincourt (de), G. 3. 4 . 
 Port-Mahou (de)', 1 ). 3 . 
 Port-Royal (de), E. 5. 
 Porte-l’oin, F. 3 . 
 
 Posies (des), E. 5. 
 
 Poste aux ehevaux, D. 2. 
 rue 't'our-des-1 lames. 
 Poste aux lettres, gi’ande, 
 E. 3. rue .J.-J. Rousseau. 
 Pot-dc-Fer, (du), Saint- 
 Slarcel, E. 5 . 
 
 Poterie (de la) des Arcis, 
 E. 4. 
 
 Poterie (de la), Halle aux 
 draps, E. 3. 
 
 Ponies (des),E. 5. 
 Poulletier, F. 4 . 
 
 Poussin, A. 4. 
 
 PrCcheurs (dej), E. 3 
 Prdfecture du Departe- 
 ment, a l’H6tel-de-Viiie, 
 E. 4. 
 
 Pretecture de Police, E. 4, 
 Pr6s (des), H. 2. 
 
 Pr6s St. Gervais (des), 
 
 G. H. 1 
 
 Princes (Passage 
 Princesse, D. 4 . 
 Procession (de la), 
 Prouvaircs (des), E. 
 Provence (de), D. 
 Prudhon (av.), A. 3 
 Piiits (du), F. 4 . 
 
 
 ruiis-de-l’Ermite, t 
 Puits-qui-Parle iduj 
 Pyramidcs (des), U? 
 Quatre-Chemins, 
 Quatre-Fils (des), _ 
 Quatrc-Venls (des), 
 Quentin (deSt-), E. 
 Quinaiilt, B. 5 . 
 Quincanipoix, E. 3. 
 Quintinie (la), B. Cm 
 Rabelais, C. 2. A 
 
 Racine, E. 4 . 
 
 Radziwill (passage)fl 
 lais-Royal, E. 3. " 
 
 Ramboiiillet (de), G^jj 
 Rambuteau, E. F. 3.T 
 Rameau, D. E . 3 . * 
 
 Rampe (aven. de la)| 
 Rainpon, F. 3. ^ 
 
 Ranelagh (du), A. 
 Raphael (av.), A. 4 
 Rap6e (quai), G. 5 
 Rai>p (avenue), B. 
 Rats (des), H. 4 . 
 
 Rdale (de la), E. 3. 
 Reaumur. F. 3 . 
 Rebeval, G. 2. 
 Recollets (des), F. 2. 
 Regard (du), t). s. 
 Regnard, Odeon, E. < 
 Reims (de), E. 5. 
 Reine-Blanche ( de 
 F. 6. 
 
 Reine llorlense (ay 
 dela), B. C. 2. 
 
 R enard-St-Sau veur. 
 
 Renard-St-Merri, E, j 
 Rennequin, B. 1. 
 Rennes (de), D. 5. 
 Reservoirs, (des), A. 
 Retiro (passage du) 
 bourgSI-Ilonore, E 
 Reuilly (de), G H. E 
 — (passage), G. 5. 
 Reuilly (bonil.), 11. 5. 
 
 Pre.sbourg, R .2. 
 
 Pretres -Saint - Germain- 
 I’AuxcjTois (des), E. 4. 
 Prctres-SI-S6verin (des), 
 prcsFeglisc, E. 4 . 
 
 Prince Eugene (boui. du) 
 F. 3. G. 3. 4, H, 4. 
 
 — (cbemin de), II. ( 
 Reunion (placo de la 
 Revolte (route de la 
 B. 1 
 
 Reynie (la), ou Tro 
 Vache, E. 3. 
 Riboutd, E. 2, 
 
X 
 
 LIST 
 
 jrd-Lenoir (.lioulev.’l, 
 i.3. 4. 
 
 Clieil, D. 3. E. 3. 2 
 ppanse, D. 3. 
 er, E. 2. 
 
 cr (galeric), r. jGeot- 
 f-Maric, E. 2. 
 herand (avenue), F. 2 
 jllcs (des), 11. 2. 
 
 »ict, O. 1. 
 erin (cU6). F. 2. 
 oil (do), D. E. 3. 4. F. 4 
 ►oli (place de), D. 3. 
 ;h(St-),D. 3. 
 
 !h (passage St-), D. 3. 
 ihecliouart, E. i. 2. 
 dicchouart (boulevard 
 ),E. 1. 
 
 i lietoucauld (La), D. 2. 
 ’Enfer, D. 6. 
 dier, (du), C. D. 2. 
 froy (de), E. 1. 
 
 |ier, E. 1. 2 
 *an, D. 3. 
 
 de Rome lav. du), 
 12. 3. 
 
 -de-Sicilc (du), F. 4. 
 Doi’6, F. 4 
 kie (de), D. 1 . 2 
 nain (SI-), D. 5. 
 id Point Ch.-Elys., C. 3 
 
 I uepine, C. 2. 
 uetle (de la), G. 4. 
 (lace de la, G. 4. 
 
 ^iers (des), F. 4. 
 jsini, E. 2, 
 
 onde,Villette, (place), 
 
 !g. 1. 
 
 ibaix (place de), F. 1 
 (bo, 11. 4. 
 
 Idle, B. 4. 
 
 ^en (de), G. 1. 
 lie (du), E. 3. 
 igemoni, E. 2. 
 issclet, C. 4. 5. 
 issin,B. 5. 
 
 |al (pont), D. 3. 4. 
 
 I ale (place), F. 4 
 ale-Sl-llonord, I). 3. 
 Jale, Villeltc, G. (. 
 jcr-Collard, E. 5. 
 f)cns, F. 0 
 (in (.SI-), G. 4 
 tdonvillc, .4. 1 . 
 lot (du), 1). 4. 
 
 Jnt ct Sainte (see their 
 lines). 
 
 ijntongc (de), F. 3. 
 nl6 (de la), E. 0 
 rtine (.de), E. 3. 
 
 OF STREETS, SQUARES, 
 
 Saulnier (passage), E. 2. 
 Saumon (passage), E. 3. 
 Saussayes (des), C. 2. 
 Saussayes (des), CUcliy, 
 
 E. 1. 
 
 Saussure, C. 1 . 
 
 Saiival, E. 3. 
 
 Sauveur (St-), E. 3. 
 
 Savoyc (de), E. 4. 
 
 Saxe (avenue de), C. 4. 5. 
 Scheffer, A. 3. 
 
 Schomberg (de), F. 4 
 Seipion (place), E. F. G. 
 Scipion, E. F. 0. 
 
 Scribe, D 2. 
 
 Sebastien (St-), F. G, 3. 
 Sebastopol i.b(l.), E.3.4.F.3 
 Sedaine, G. 4. 
 
 Siguier, E. 4. 
 
 Segue (avenue), C. 4. 
 Seine (de), IJ. E. 4. 
 
 Seine, quai de la, G. 1. 
 Sentier (du), E. 2. 3. 
 
 Sept Voies (des), E. 5. 
 Serpente, E. 4. 
 Servandoni. 1). 4. . 
 S6verin (St-),E. 4. 
 
 S6vrcs (de), C. 5. 1). 4. 5. 
 Seze (de), D. 2. 
 
 Sibour, F. 2. 
 Simon-lc-Franc,E. F. 3. 
 Singer, A. 4. 
 
 Singes (des), F. 4. 
 
 Soeurs (passage des Oeux-). 
 E. 2. 
 
 Soissons, G. f. 
 
 Solferino (pont de), C. 3 
 Soly, E. 3. 
 
 Sorbonne (de), E. 5. 
 Sorbonne U>lace), E. 3 
 Soufllot, E. 5. 1 
 
 Soulages, G. G 
 Source (de la), A. 4 
 SourdiGre (de la), Saint- 
 Roch, D. 3. 
 
 Sourdis (rticlle), F. 3. 
 Spire (St-), E. 3. 
 
 Sponti*R A. S. 3 
 Stani.slas, II. 5. 
 
 Stinvillc (passage), 11. 5. 
 Stockholm, D. 2 
 Strasbourg (do), F. 2. 
 
 I Strasbourg ( Boulevard 
 do), F. 2. 3 
 
 Suebet (boidcvard;, A 4. 
 Siiffrcn (avenue de),B. 4. 
 Sugcr, E. 4. 
 lully, d l’.4rscnal^ F. 4. 
 Sulpicc (place St-), L). ' 
 
 Etc. 
 
 Sulpice (St* , 0. E. 4. 
 Surdue (de), C. 1). . 
 Taillcbourg (av.), 11. 
 Taillc-Paiu, E. 4 
 Taitbout, L). 2. 
 
 Tangcr, F. G i 
 Ta ramie, D. 4. 
 
 Telegrapbc (du), E. ( 
 Temple (du), b . .1 4 
 Teuiplc (faubourg du), 
 
 F. 3. G. j. 
 
 Temple (boulev. du), F. ;t 
 Temple (marcbe du) 
 near the Temple, F. 3. 
 Temple (square du), F. > 
 Ternaux, G. 3. 
 
 '(ernes, B. (. 
 
 'iie;-iies (av.), A I. B. 2. 
 'ferres-Fortes (des), F. 4, 
 
 G. 5 
 
 Tberdse, D. 3. 
 
 Tbeveuot, E. 3. 
 
 Tbierrd (passage). G. 
 Tbionville (de) G i. 
 Tboloze, L). ( . 
 Tbomas-d’Aqu i n (Sai ti , 
 place, D. 4. 
 
 'Ibomas-d’Enfer (St ). F. 3 
 Thorigiiy (de), F. 4. 
 Tboiiiu, E. 3. 
 
 Tilsilt, B. 2. 
 
 Tiquetonne, E. 3. 
 Tircctiappc, E. 3. 
 
 Tivoli, 1). 2. 
 
 —(passage et place), D. 2. 
 Tom be Issoirc (de la), 
 
 D. 6. 
 
 Tour (de la), Passy, A. 3 
 Tour-d^Auvergne (de !aj 
 
 E. 2. 
 
 Tour-des-Dames, D. 2. 
 Toui eilcs (des), H. 2. 
 Tournclle (pont),F. 4.) 
 Tournellc (quai), E. F 4 
 Tournefort, E, 5. 
 I’ourneUes (des),F. 4. 
 Tournoii (de), 11. E. 4. 
 Tourville (avciuic), C. 4 . ’ 
 Trahtir, B 2. 
 
 Tracy (de), E 3. 
 
 Transit (du), B. c. D. g. 
 Travcr.se (de), C. 4 . 5 .) 
 Traversidre, F. G. 4. ^ 
 'rraversine, E. 4. 
 q'rdvise,E. 2. 
 
 —Cite, E. 2. 
 
 Triiicrct, K. s. 
 
 Tripic'i’O (de la), F. G. 
 Trois-Bornes (desj,G. 3 
 
XU List 
 
 ■ — Chandellos (rnclle 
 
 des), G. H. 6 - 
 — Couronnes (des), G. 3 
 — Frdrcs (des), D. E. i. 
 
 — Maries (place 'des), E .4 
 — -Pavilions (des), E. 4 
 — Fortes (des), E. 4 . 
 
 — Sabres, K. S. 
 Ti'onchct, D. 2 . 
 
 Ti' 6 ne (place du), H. S. 
 Triianderie (Gde.), E. 3 . 
 Trudaine (avcmie), E. i. 
 Tuilerics (palais des),D. 3 
 Tuilcries (quai des), I). 
 3 . 4 . 
 
 . Turenne, F. 3 . 4 . 
 
 Turgot, E. 1 . 2 . 
 
 Turbigo (de), E. F. 3 . 
 Turin (de), D. t. 2 . 
 
 Ulni, E. 5 . 
 
 University, B. C. 3 . U. 4 . 
 University, au Gros-Cail- 
 lOH, B. 3 . 
 
 - Ursulines (des), E. 5 . 
 Valadon (cite), B. 4 . 
 Val-dc-Grdce (du), E. 5 . 
 Valence (de), E. 6 . 
 Valenciennes (place), F. 2 
 Valenciennes, F. 2 . 
 
 Valmy (quai de), F. 2 . 
 Valois. Palais-Boyal, E. 3 
 Valois du Roule, -C. i. 2. 
 Vandamme, C. D. 6 . 
 Vanne-au, C. 4 . 
 
 Vanncs (do). Halle an ble, 
 E. 3 . 
 
 OF STREETS, SQUARES, 
 
 Vaiicanson (passage), G. 4 
 Vaiigirard (de), C. D. 5. 
 Vanquelin, E. s. 
 
 — (boulevard de), C. 5 . 
 \avln, D. 5 . 
 
 Veaux (rnarclid aux), E.4. 
 Venddme (passage), F. 3 
 Venddme (place), D. 3 
 Venise (de), E. 3. 
 Ventadour (du), D. 3. 
 Verdean (passage), E. 2 . 
 Verderet, E. 3 . 
 
 Vernet, B. 2. 
 
 Vcrneiiil (de), D. 4. 
 Vernier, A. B. i 
 vyro-Dodat (passage), rue 
 de Grcnelle, E. 3. 
 Verrerie (de la), E. F. 4. 
 Versailles (route), A. 4. 5. 
 Vertbois (du), F, 3. 
 Verte(aHiye), F. G. 3. 
 
 Vertus (des), F. 3. 
 
 Vertus, Cliapelle, F. 1 
 viarnies (de), E. 3. 
 
 Vicq d’Azir. F. G. 2 
 Victoire(dela), D. E. 2 
 Victoires (place des), E. 3 . 
 Victor (St-),'E. F. 5 . 
 
 Victor Cousin, E. 5 
 Victor (place St-), F. 5. 
 Victoria (avenue), E. 4. 
 Vide-Gousset, E. 3. 
 Vieillc-du-Tejnple.F. 3. 4 
 — Estrapade, E. 5. 
 
 — Notre-Uame (de la), 
 
 Vanves (Gde. R. de), C. 6 
 Varennes (de), faubourg 
 St-Gerniain. C. F). 4 
 Varennes (de), Halle au 
 i)iy, E. 3. 
 
 Variytys (passage des) E. 2 
 vauban (place), C. 4. 
 Vancanson, F. 3 . 
 
 Vieilles-Haudriettes(des), 
 
 --Etuves (des), St-Mar- 
 tin, F. 4. 
 
 Vienne, 
 
 Vierge (de la), C. 4. 
 Vieux-A%guslins(des), E .3 
 
 ETC. [ 
 
 ■Vleux Cheniin (du 
 Vieux-Colonibler, I 
 Vignes(dcs), A. 4. ■ 
 Vignoles, H. 4. 
 Villars (avenue), G. 
 Villedot, D. 3. 
 Villiot, G. 5 . 
 Villejuif (de), F. 6. 
 Villcjust (de), A. 2.. 
 Villehardouin. F.j 
 Ville-FEveque (do 
 
 D. 2 . i 
 
 viliette (boulevarj 
 
 F. 1 . G. 1 . 2. 
 Viliette (bassin 
 
 G. 1 . 
 
 Villiers, A. B. 1. 
 Vinaigriers (des), 
 Vincennes (cours) 
 Vincennes (av. d( 
 Vincent (St-) de 
 
 E. I. 
 
 Vindy (city), D.’S. 
 vincuse, A. 3. 
 
 Vins (balle ct po: 
 
 F. 5 . 
 
 Vintiniille (place): 
 Vintiniille, D. i. 
 Violet, B. 4. 5. 
 Violet (passage), E 
 Visconti, D. 4. 
 Vivienne, E. 2. .3. 
 Vivienne (passage 
 Volta, F. 3. 
 Voltaire (quai), D 
 Vosges (des) F. 4. 
 Vrilliyre(dela), 1 
 'Wagrani (avenue ( 
 Wagram (place), j 
 Wauxhall (city du 
 Walhubert (place 
 Wilbem, A. 4. 5., 
 Zacbarie, E. 4.