BAEDEKER'S GUIDE BOOKS. BELGIUM and HOLLAND, with 5 Maps and 13 Plans. Second Edition. 1871 . . . 4 s . THE RHINE (incl. the Black Forest, Vosges, Haardt, Odenwald, 7 annus, Eifel, Seven Mountains, Nahe, La/$sj Moselle etc.) and NORTHERN GERMANY, with 23 Maps and 38 Plans. Fourth Edition. 1870. 6 s. SOUTHERN GERMANY and AUSTRIA, including the EASTERN ALPS (the Tyrol, Styria, Carinihia etc.); with 18 Maps and 20 Plans. Second Edition. 1871 . . . 5 s. NORTH. ITALY, as far as LEGHORN, FLORENCE, and ANOONA, and the ISLAND OF CORSICA, with 6 Maps and 27 Plans. Second Edition. 1870. 5 s. CENTRAL ITALY and ROME with 3 Maps and 9 Plans. Third Edition. 1872 5 s. SOUTHERN ITALY, SICILY, and excursions to the LIPARI ISLANDS, TUNIS [Carthage), SARDINIA, MALTA and ATHENS with 7 Maps and 8 Plans. Third Edition. 187 2 5 s. PARIS and NORTHERN FRANCE, with 2 Maps and 21 Plans. Third Edition. 1872 5s. SWITZERLAND, and the adjacent portions of ITALY, SAVOY and the TYROL, with 21 Maps, 7 Plans and 7 Panoramas. Fifth Edition. 1872 . . . 6 s. THE TRAVELLERS MANUAL OF CONVERSATION in English, German, French and Italian. Twentieth Edition. 187 0 3 s. .July 1872. PARIS. 1 I South ( Moi ley. Pfennig e. m 1 1 1 1 I 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 I 1 1 1 1 I 1 ussian Mor Groschen. | I CQ-^COCOCO-^CMOOOCD-^CQOOOCO^CM I COCO-sf WOOO 1 T-t cm -h o) ■hnn -no 1 thoi — < cv cm Pr Thaler. | | | j | | | j-THTH^^oic^oJC^coeoco-^^-^^iovoco^ m OI 5n #* &t» 1 ffiP-^O) ^ C5 i> CM ^Oh-^?! ^ ^ ^ ?lish Mon Shillings^ H « M I I I 1 I I 1 1 1 1 ! 1 1 1 I I 1. H 1 1 1"""* 1 Money. Cents. ^258388 I8S88 18388 I8S88 1 1 I Americar Dollars. 1 French Money. Francs Centimes. 5 (= 1 sou ) 25 (= 5 sous) 50 (= 10 „ 75 (= 15 „ - (= 20 „ TAth geocfr. Arist/lif ran, JSd. Waffrwr, Darmstadt PARIS AND NORTHERN FRANCE. HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS BY K BiEDEKER. With 2 Maps and 21 Plans. THIRD EDITION, REVISED AND AUGMENTED. COBLENZ: KARL BAEDEKER. 1872. All Rights Reserved. Preface. The object of the present Handbook is to render the .visitor to the French metropolis and Northern France as independent as possible of the services of guides, commissionaires, innkeepers, etc., and enable him to employ his time, as well as his money, to the b£St advantage. Information is given concerning the objects of general interest, described by the Editor from his personal ex- perience. A detailed account of all the specialties of Paris would of course far exceed the limits of a work of this character. Visitors to picture-galleries and other collections may generally dispense with catalogues , as the Handbook contains sufficient information respecting all the most striking objects of interest. The subdivision of the Plan of the city into three sections of different colours, accompanied by a key-map, will be found materially to facilitate reference, and en- tirely obviates the disagreeable necessity of unfolding several square feet of paper on every occasion. Probably no city in the world ever underwent such gigantic transformations in its external appearance as the French metropolis during the reign of Napoleon III., and few cities have ever experienced so appalling a series of disasters as Paris since the declaration of the Republic. Many unwholesome purlieus , teeming with poverty and vice, were swept away under the imperial regime, to make room for spacious squares, noble VI PREFACE. aypnues, and palatial edifices. Paris was then in a transition state, and its grand metamorphosis was nearly complete when the gay, splendour -loving, pleasure- seeking city was overtaken by the signal calamities of 1870 — 71. Since the restoration of peace the city has in many respects resumed its former aspect, but in others it has sustained such irreparable losses that it must necessarily again pass through a protracted period of transition. The Editor has therefore found the pre- paration of the present edition of the Handbook a task of unusual difficulty. He has endeavoured to accompany the traveller to the chief attractions of Paris as he found them in the autumn of 1871. Many changes must, how- ever, necessarily occur within the next few years ; ruins will be restored or superseded by entirely new structures, museums and galleries will be remodelled and opened to the public under new auspices, and the ex-imperial palaces, chateaux, collections, etc. will be consecrated to 'national' purposes. Meanwhile it may be stated generally that the changes which have as yet taken place have been less considerable than might have been anticipated, and that the intention of the present government is to restore everything as far as possible to its former condition. It need hardly be observed that it would be far beyond the scope of the Handbook to record all the momentous events of 1870 — 71, to describe the sieges of Paris by the Prussians and by the French, to give an account of the Communist insurrection, or to enumer- ate in detail the stupendous disasters and revolting crimes which characterised the second 'Reign of Terror' in May (20th— 28th), 1871. Frequent allusion, however, to these events will be found in the following pages, and the Editor may here supplement his description of the 'principal attractions' of the city by a brief enumeration of the buildings, public and private, which have suffered most severely, and many of which, but for their mis- PREFACE. VII fortunes, would have failed to arrest the travellers attention. It may be premised that there is hardly a single public building, or street, or park in Paris which does not bear numerous traces of the recent devastations, or to which some melancholy story does not attach ; the following list, however, will be found amply sufficient for the guidance of all ordinary visitors to the sadly mutilated metropolis . Public Buildings and Monuments. The following have been either totally destroyed or seriously injured. On the N. bank of the Seine : Vendome Column, Ministere des Finances. Tuileries, Bibliotheque du Louvre, Palais Royal, Theatre Lyrique, Hotel de Ville, Arsenal, Gre- nier dAbondance (or 'de Reserve'), Colonne de Juillet, Caserne du Prince Eugene, Theatre de la Porte St. Mar- tin, Docks de la Villette. — On the 'Cite' island: Palais de Justice , Prefecture. — On the S. bank of the Seine : Ministere des Affaires Etrangeres, Palais de la Legion d'Honnenr , Conseil d'Etat and Cour des Comptes, Quartier (or Caserne) Bonaparte, Ecole des Mines, Gobelins. Streets, Squares, Railway Stations. The streets and squares are those in which numerous houses have been destroyed or seriously damaged, the stations those which have been demolished by the bombardment, or totally • or partially burned down. On the N. bank : Stations of Auteuil, Passy, and the Porte de Maillot, Avenue de la Grande Armee, Place de la Concorde, Rue Ro- yale, Rue St. Honore, Rue de Rivoli, Place de la Bastille, Station de Lyon, Station de Yin cennes, Rue de la Ro- quette, Boulevart Voltaire (formerly du Prince Eugene) , Chateau d'Eau, Boulevart St. Martin. On the S. bank : Rue du Bac, Rue de Lille, Rue Vavin. Parks and Gardens. Bois de Boulogne, Jardin d'Ac- climatation, Les Buttes Chaumont, Jardin des Plantes. Suburbs and Environs. Most of the forts surrounding Paris have been totally demolished ; the walls of a few VIII PREFACE. only have been left standing. The following places suffered most gravely : St. Denis , Neuilly , Passy, Auteuil, St. Cloud, Sevres. Meudon, Clamart, Issy, Vanves, Chatillon, Choisy-le-Roi, Champigny, Bondy, La Courneuve. As many travellers merely pass through Paris on their way to more distant scenes, some brief itineraries to Switzerland and the Rhine will, it is hoped, be found serviceable. A short account of the principal towns of N. France, with their magnificent specimens of Gothic architecture and their lingering traces of old-world peculiarities, will be acceptable alike to the archaeologist, the architect, and the non-professional visitor. Besides the first-class hotels mentioned in the Hand- book, many of modest pretensions are enumerated which may safely be selected by the ' voyageur en gar^on', with little sacrifice of real comfort, and great saving of ex- penditure. Those which the Editor, either from his own experience, or from an inspection of the numerous hotel bills sent him by travellers of different nationalities, believes to be most worthy of commendation are de- noted by asterisks. It should, however, be borne in mind that hotels are liable to constant changes, and that the treatment experienced by the traveller is often contingent upon a variety of circumstances which can neither be foreseen nor controlled. Contents. Introduction. Page I. Language. Money. Passports. Douane . . . XV II. Post and Telegraph Offices XVI III. Embassies XVIII IV. History and Statistics XVIII V. Distribution of Time XXIV VI. Weights and Measures XXIX VII. General Remarks on N. France XXX Preliminary Information. 1. Arrival in Paris 1 2. Hotels and Maisons Meublees ....... 3 3. Restaurants 9 4. Cafes ' 15 5. Booksellers, Reading Rooms, Newspapers .... 18 6. Shops, Bazaars, Markets 19 7. Baths, Maisons de Sante, etc 22 8. Voitures 23 9. Omnibuses 25 10. Railway-stations and Railway-omnibuses 27 11. Steamboats 29 12. Theatres 29 13. Concerts and Balls 34 14. Drive through Paris ... 35 X CONTENTS. Right Bank of the Seine, Route Page 1. *Les Grands Boulevarts 37 Place de la Bastille 38 *Colonne de Juillet 39 Place des Vosges ( formerly Royale ) ...... 40 *Porte St. Martin and Porte St. Denis 42 •Bourse 43 *New Opera House 45 *Vend6me Column 45 Chapelle Expiatoire 47 2. *The Palais Royal . 51 Place des Victoires 53 3. **The Louvre and its Collections ....... 54 "Assyrian Antiquities 56 Antiquities from Asia Minor 56 Collection of Casts 57 Ancient Greek Reliefs and Sculptures 57 'Egyptian Museum 57 Algerian Museum 58 Renaissance Sculptures 58 Modern Sculptures 59 "Ancient Sculptures 60 "Collection of Engravings 60 "-Picture Gallery 64 Galerie des Sept Metres 72 Galerie d'Apollon 73 Salle des Bijoux 73 Modern French School of Painting 73 Collection La Caze 74 Musee Napoleon III 74 Musee des Souverains 75 Saloon of the Bronzes . 76 Drawings 76 Mediaeval and Renaissance Curiosities of the Musee Na- poleon III 77 "Marine Museum 78 Musee Ethnographique 78 American Antiquities 80 4. The Tuileries 80 *Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel . 80 *Jardin des Tuileries 83 5. **Place de la Concorde * 85 *Obelisk of Luxor 87 6. *Champs Elysees .... 89 Palais de l'Elyse'e 90 Palais de l'lndustrie 90 Maison de Francois 1 91 CONTENTS. XI Route Page Hotel Pompeien 91 Pont de l'Alma • • • 92 Pont d'lena 92 7. *Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile --. 92 Russian Church , 93 *Chapelle St. Ferdinand 94 8. *Parc de Monceaux 95 9. *Bois de Boulogne 95 Fortifications 98 Jardin d'Acclimatation 98 10. Hotel de Ville 99 Rue de Rivoli 101 Boulevart de Sevastopol - . 102 *Tour St. Jacques 102 Place du Chatelet 102 Fontaine St. Michel ,103 11. Palais de Justice 103 *Sainte Chapelle 105 Conciergerie 105 Prefecture de Police 106 Place Dauphine % 107 *Pont Neuf # 108 Morgue ♦ 109 12. *Bibliotheque Nationale 109 Place Louvois 109 Fontaine Moliere . Ill 13. Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers 112 14. Churches on the right bank of the Seine . . . . 113 *Notre Dame .*' 113 St. Germain l'Auxerrois 115 St. Merri . ■ 116 *St. Eustache 116 St. Roch 118 *Madeleine 118 *Notre Dame de Lorette 120 Egl. de la Trinite 121 XII CONTENTS. Route Page St. Augustine 121 •St, Vincent de Paul 121 •St. Jean Baptiste 122 St. Eugene . . • . 122 Protestant Churches 122 English Churches 123 15. *Pere Lachaise 123 Cimetiere Picpus 134 16. *Les Buttes Chaumont 134 17. Montmartre 135 *Cemetery of Montmartre 136 18. *Vincennes and its Park ' 137 Canal de St. Maur . 140 Charenton 141 Left Bank of the Seine. 19. **Palais du Luxembourg (modern pictures) . . . . 142 *Jardin du Luxembourg 147 Statue of Ney 147 Observatory ^ 147 20. *Musee des Thermes et de l'Hotel de Cluny . . . 147 Roman Baths 150 Sorbonne 150 21. *Pantheon 151 Bibliotheque Sainte Genevieve 153 22. *Jardin des Plantes 155 Fontaine Cuvier 156 Botanic Garden . 158 23. Gobelins 158 24. Hotel des Monnaies 159 25. Institut de France 160 26. Ecole des Beaux Arts 162 27. Musee d'Artillerie . 164 Eglise St. Thomas d'Aquin 166 28. Palais du Corps Legislate 166 CONTENTS. XIII Route Page 29. *H6tel des Invalides 167 *Napoleon's Tomb • 170 Artesian Well 171 Ecole Militaire 171 Champ de Mars 171 Manufacture Nationale des T abacs 172 30. *Blind Institution 173 Deaf and Dumb Institution 173 31. Churches on the left bank of the Seine . ... 174 •St.; Sulpice . . 174 *St. Etienne du Mont 175 St. Germain des Pres ........... 176 *Sainte Clotilde 177 32. Cemetery of Mont Parnasse 178 33. The Catacombs 179 Environs of Paris. 34 ^Versailles 181 Les Trianons 198 35. St. Cloud 199 Sevres 201 36. St. Germain-en-Laye 202 37. St. Denis 203 Enghien-les-Bains 210 Montmorency 210 38. *Fontainebleau 210 Northern France. A. Routes from London to Paris. 39. By Folkestone, Boulogne, and Amiens 217 40. By Dover, Calais, and Amiens 222 41. By Newhaven, Dieppe, and Rouen 224 42. By Southampton, Havre, and Rouen 234 B. North-Western France. 43. From Paris to Orleans and Tours 237 XIV CONTENTS. Route Page 44. From Paris to Nantes by Chartres, Le Mans, and Angers 242 45. From Nantes to Brest 251 46. From Brest to Paris by Rennes and Le Mans . 252 47. From Paris to Caen and Cherbourg 255 C. Routes from Paris to the Rhine and Switzerland. 48. From Paris to Cologne 258 a. Direct Route by Namur and Liege 258 b. From Paris to Cologne by Brussels 262 49. From Paris to Strasbourg by Chalons and Nancy . . 267 50. Strasbourg 274 51. From Paris to Mannheim or Coblenz (Bingen) . . . 279 a. From Paris to Metz . • 279 b. Metz 280 c. From Metz to Mannheim and Mayence 282 d. From Metz to Coblenz by Neunkirchen and Bingen . . 284 52. From Paris to Bale by Troyes, Belfort, and Mulhouse 285 53. From Paris to Neuchatel by Dijon 288 54. From Paris to Geneva by Macon, Amberieu, and Culoz 292 Index . « 295 List of Names in the Plan 301 List of Maps and Plans. L General Map of N. France 1 , c 2. Map of the Environs of Paris } before the title-page. 3. Plan of Paris in three Sections, after the Index. 4. Key-Plan of Paris. 5. Bois de Boulogne p. 96 \ 6. Pere Lachaise p. 124 ; 7. Jardin des Plantes p. 154; 8. Versailles p. 184; 9. St. Germain-en-Laye p. 202; 10. Bou- logne p. 216 ; 11. Dieppe p. 224 ; 12. Rouen p. 226 ; 13. Le Havre p. 234 ; 14. Orleans p. 238; 15. Nantes p. 248; 16. Brest p. 252; 17. Caen p. 254 ; 18. Cherbourg p. 256 ; 19. Liege p. 260 ; 20. Brussels p. 264 ; 21. Rheims p. 268; 22. Strasbourg p. 275; 23. Metz p. 280. Abbreviations M. = Engl, mile ; hr. = hour ; min. = minute ; r. = right ; 1. = left ; N. = north, northwards, northern ; S. = south etc. ; E. = east etc. ; W. — west etc. ; R. = room ; B. = breakfast ; D. = dinner ; A. = atten- dance; L. = light. Asterisks are employed as marks of commendation. Introduction. I. Language. Money. Passports. Douane. For those who are desirous of deriving instruction as well as pleasure from a visit to Paris, the most attractive treasury of art and industry in the world, some acquaintance with the French language is indispensable. The metropolis of France, it is true, possesses English hotels, English professional men, English 'va- lets de place', English shops, etc. ; but the visitor who is de- pendent upon such extraneous aid cannot expect to realise to the fullest extent the enjoyments which Paris so abundantly offers. The decimal Monetary System of France is extremely con- venient in keeping accounts. French Banknotes of 5000, 1000, 500, 200, and 100 francs are everywhere received at their full value. Gold coins are of the value of 100, 50, 40, 20, 10, and 5 francs; Silver coins of 5, 2, 1, 1 / 2 , and y 5 (20 centimes) franc; Copper of 10, 5, 2, and 1 centime (100 centimes = 1 franc). ''Sou' is the old name, still in common use, for 5 centimes; thus, a 5-franc piece is sometimes termed 'une piece de cent sous', 2 fr. = 40 sous, 1 fr. = 20 sous, */ 2 fr- = 10 sous. Italian, Belgian, and Swiss gold and silver (but not copper) coins are also received at their full value. — Smaller notes (coupures) of 5, 2 and 1 fr. have recently been issued by the Comptoir d'Es- compte and the Societe generate with authorization of government, provided that their full value was to be deposited at the Banque de France ; as, however, the latter has been authorized of emitting billets of 10 and 5 fr., the coupures of the Comptoir d'Escompte etc. must be drawn back within 6 months. They are taken in shops, etc. at their full value at Paris, but not in the provincial towns, some of which (Troyes, Bordeaux, etc.) have issued notes of their own under the same restrictions as the Paris notes. Gold coins are now rarely met with at Paris, but of silver there is still an abundant supply. English banknotes, gold, and even silver are generally received at the full value, except at the shops of the money-changers, where a trifling deduction is made. The table at the beginning of the book shows the comparative value of the French, English, and XVI PASSPORTS. American currencies, when (as is usual in ordinary traffic) at par ; the addition of a list of the coins in circulation in Germany will not be unacceptable to travellers en route for the Rhine ; the currency of Switzerland is the same as that of France. Foreign bills of exchange on Paris must be furnished with a stamp of 5 c. per 100 fr., to be procured at the Timbre National, Rue de la Banque 13, before they are presented to the banker. With regard to the cost of a visit to Paris, it is impossible to offer any remarks with precision. Supposing a traveller to fre- quent a hotel of either first or second-rate pretensions, to dine at a table d'hote, or perhaps the 'Diner de Paris', to partake of wine of a good though not extravagant quality, to visit the theatres, to indulge in a supper a la carte, etc., a pound a day would prob- ably be the lowest estimate at which all this could be accomplished. The thrifty and experienced traveller, who visits Paris for its monuments, its galleries, its collections, and not for its pleasures, will know how to control his expenditure in accordance with the extent of his resources; but where all that can gratify the eye and the palate are so temptingly displayed, where luxury is raised to a science, and where the provocatives to extravagance meet one at every step, each traveller must be his own mentor. Passports have again, since the events of 1871, become in- dispensable in France. They must, moreover, be provided with the visa of a French ambassador or consul (10 fr.). Application may be made to W. J. Adams, 59 Fleet Street; Lee and Carter, 440 Strand; E. Standford, 6 Charing Cross; or Letts and Co., 8 Royal Exchange. In order to avoid any unpleasant detention at the Customhouse (or 'douane'), travellers are strongly recommended to eschew all articles not absolutely necessary. Books and newspapers are occasionally regarded with suspicion. Cigars (6 only free of duty) pay 10 c. each. II. Post and Telegraph Offices. The General Post Office is in the Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, No. 55, near the church of St. Eustache (p. 116). The trans- mission of parcels is undertaken by the frlessageries, Rue Notre Dame des Victoires 28, the Compagnie Generale des Messageries, Rue St. Honore 130, and other companies. The Poste-Restante office (corner of the Rue Pagevin and the Rue Coq-Heron) is open from 7. 30 a. m. to 8 p. m., on Sundays till 5 p. m. In applying for letters the written or printed name, or passport, of the addressee should always be presented. It is, however, far preferable to desire letters to be addressed to the hotel or boarding-house where the visitor purposes residing. POST AND TELEGRAPH, XVII The postage for prepaid letters (10 grammes or y 3 oz. ; half-a- franc in silver, it may be useful to observe, weighs 2 1 '/o gram- mes) within the limits of Paris is 15 c, unpaid 25 c. ; for any part of France, Algeria, and Corsica, prepaid 25 c, unpaid 40 c. Prepaid letters (10 grammes or l / 3 oz.) to Great Britain 30 c, unpaid 50 c; to N. America 50 c, unpaid 80 c; Switzer- land 30 c, unpaid 50 c ; Rhine 40—50 c ; N. Germany 50— 60 c ; Russia 1 fr. Registered (ehargees) letters must be furnished with two seals and pay double postage. A receipt is given, on presenting which, in case of loss, a compensation of 50 fr. may be recovered. Postage for newspapers (always prepaid), which must be enclosed by a narrow band only, capable of being removed without diffi- culty, for France 4 c, for Great Britain 8 c The letter-boxes for the evening-trains are emptied as follows : the ordinary street letter-boxes at 5 p. m. ; at 5. 30 p. m. those of the offices Rue de la Ste. Chapelle 15, Rue d'Antin 10, Rue Palestro 5, Avenue Victoria 5, Rue St. Antoine 170, Rue Pascal 4, Rue des Feuillantines 86, Rue du Cherche-Midi 53, Rue Vaugirard 36 (Palais du Luxembourg), Rue Serpente 18, Rue St. Dominique 184, Rue de Bourgogne 2, Rue Montaigne 26, Boulevart Malesherbes 86, Avenue Josephine 42, Rue d'Amster- dam 19, Gare du Nord, Rue de Bondy 28, Rue des Ecluses St. Martin 4, Rue de Strasbourg 2, Boulevart Richard Lenoir 36, Boulevart Voltaire 105, Rue d'Aligre 32, Boulevart Maxas 19, Boulevart de l'Hopital 26; at 5. 45 p. m. those in the Rue Pont-Neuf 117, Rue de Luxembourg 9, Rue d'Antin 19, Bou- levart Beaumarchais 83, Rue des Vieilles Haudriettes 4, Rue Cardinal Lemoine 28, Rue Bonaparte 21, Rue St. Dominique St. Germain 56, Rue de la Madeleine 28, Rue St. Lazare 11, Rue Taitbout 46, Rue d'JLnghien 21 ; at 6 p. m. those of the offices in the Place de la Bourse, Rue de Clery 28, Rue St. Honore 202 and General Post Office. If too late for the last clearance of the boxes letter's may be posted till 6 for an additional sum of 20 c, and till 6. 15 for 40 c. at the offices Rue Pont Neuf 17, Rue du Luxembourg 9, Rue d'Antin 19, Boulevart Beaumarchais 83, Rue des Vieilles Haudriettes 4, Rue Cardinal Lemoine 28, Rue Bonaparte 21, Rue St. Dominique 56, Place de la Madeleine 28, Rue St. Lazare 11, Rue Taitbout 46, Rue d'Enghien 21. For 20 c. additional, letters may also be posted till 6. 15, and for 40 c till 6. 30, at the Rue St. Honore 202, Place de la Bourse 4, Rue de Clery 28, and at the General Post Office, where they are moreover received from 6. 30 till 7 for an additional sum of 60 c. Letters will likewise be forwarded on the same evening if posted at the proper railway-stations before 7. 25. Telegraph Offices are to be found in each of the 20 Arron- dissements. The most convenient are at the General Post Office, Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau 5 ; Avenue de la Republique 2 ; Bjedeker. Paris. 3rd Edition. \> XVIII EMBASSIES. Hue de Rivoli 17; Place de la Bourse 12 (day and night); the Luxembourg; office of the minister of the interior, Rue de Grcnelle St. Germain 103 (day and night); Rue St. Lazare 112; Avenue des Champs Elysees 33 (till midnight); Rue Lafayette 35, corner of Rue Lafitte ; the Grand Hotel ; Boulevart St. Denis 16 ; Station du Nord, etc. — Telegram (20 words) to any part of Paris or the Department of the Seine 50 c, to other parts of France 1 fr. ; London 4, other parts of Great Britain 6 fr. ; Belgium, Germany, and Switzerland 3 fr. ; Italy, Spain, and Holland 4 fr., etc, III. Embassies. Austria. Rue de l'Elysee 2 (1 — 3). Belgium, Rue du Faubourg St. Honore' 153 (12—2). Denmark, Rue de rUniversite 37 (1 — 3). Germany, Rue de Lille 78 (12— ll/ 2 ). Great Britain, Rue du Faubourg St. Honore' 39 (10—3). Holland, Rue Montaigne 9 (12—2). Italy, Avenue des Champs Elysees 6 (1 — 3). Russia, Rue Grenelle St. Germain 79 (12—2). Spain, Quai d'Orsay 25 (1—4). Sweden and Norway, Rue de Rovigo 22 (12 — 2). Switzerland, Rue Blanche 3 (10 — 3). United States of N. America, Avenue Uhrich 75, entrance Rue Spontini 6 (residence of the ambassador); offices Rue de Chaillot 95 (10—3). The above are the present addresses; a change of residence, however, occasionally takes place. IV. History and Statistics. At the time of the conquest of Gaul by Julius Ccesar, the Pdrisii were a tribe settled on the banks of the Sequana or Seine, and their chief town was Lutetia, situated on the present island of La Cite. The first event worthy of mention was the introduction of Christianity by St. Denis the Areopagite, who, according to tra- dition, suffered martyrdom on Montmartre about the year 250. Constantius Chlorus is said to have founded the Palais des Thermes (p. 147) between 292 and 306. Julian resided at Lutetia in 360. The name of the town was then changed to Parisii, and political franchises were granted to it. In the vicinity of Paris,. Gratian was defeated and slain by Maximus in 383. Clovis, son of Childeric, king of Tournay, finally expelled the Romans about the year 496^ embraced Christianity, and became HISTORY XIX the founder of the Merovingian dynasty. He erected a church to St. Peter and St. Paul, which he subsequently dedicated to Ste. Genevieve who died in his reign. Few of the monarchs of this or the subsequent dynasty resided at Paris. Pepin, in 752, was the founder of the second or Carlovin- yian dynasty. Charlemagne , 768. Louis I. (Le Debonnaire), 814. Charles II. (Le Chauve), 840. Paris sacked by the Normans, 857. — The subsequent monarchs neglected the city, and, when it was again attacked by the Normans in 885, left it to its own resources. This dynasty was therefore deposed, and the crown given to Count Odo, who had been instrumental in repelling the Normans. Under his descendant Hugh Capet, 987, the city rapidly increased in magnitude, and a p.alace, the present Palais de Justice, was commenced. Robert (Le Pieux), 996. Henry L, 1031. French crusades under Godfrey de Bouillon. Philip L, 1060. Louis VI. (LeUros), 1108, founded a palace on the site of the Louvre. Louis VH. (LeJeune), 1137. His divorced wife, Eleanor of Guienne and Poitou, married Henry Plantagenet, afterwards Henry 11. of England. Foundation-stone of Notre Dame laid by Pope Alexander III. 1163. Buyer, abbot of St. Denis, the king's minister. Philip II. (Auguste), 1180, considerably extended the city and surrounded it with a wall and turrets. Third Crusade, 1189. The English, Flemish, and German troops defeated at Bou- vines, 1214. Louis VIII. (Le Lion), 1223. Louis IX. (St. Louis), 1226. Crusades to Egypt and Tunis. Paris obtains various municipal privileges. The University found- ed by Robert Sorbon, 1250. Philip III. (Le Hardi), 1270. Philip IV. (Le Bel), 12^5, founded several courts of justice. He caused the transfer of the papal residence to Avignon, and in 1307 abolished the order of Knights Templar. Louis X. (Le Rutin), 1314. Philip V. (Le Long), 1316. Charles IV. (Le Bel), 1322, died without issue. The House of Valois succeeds. Philip VI. , 1328. War with England, 1338. Battle of Crecy, 1346. John II. (Le Bon), 1350; defeated and taken prisoner by the English at Maupertuis , 1356. Peace of Bretigny , 1360. Charles V. (Le Sage). 1361, founded the Royal Library, the K* XX HISTORY. Bastille, and the Palais des Tournelles. The city extended and re-fortified. The English expelled by Bertrand du Guesclin. Charles VI., 1380, became insane twelve years afterwards. The French conquered by Henry V. of England at AzincourL 1415. Paris occupied by the English, 1421. Charles VI., 1422. The siege of Orleans raised by Joan of Arc, 1429. The English expelled. Paris desolated by famine and plague. Louis XI. , 1461; Introduction of printing and establishment of post-office. Charles VIII., 1483; conquered Naples, 1495. Louis XII.. 'Le pere du peuple', 1498, lirst king of the younger branch of the House of Valois , conquered Milan and (in conjunction with the Spaniards) Naples. Having quarrelled with his Spanish allies, he was defeated by them on the Garigl'tano in 1503, on which occasion Bayard was present. The League of Cambrai formed for the purpose of expelling the Venetians from the main- land of Italy. The Venetians conquered at Agnadello, 1509. The French defeated at Ravenna, 1512. Francis I. , 1515. The city was probably more consider- ably altered and improved in this than in any of the preceding reigns. Numerous new edifices were erected, ehurehes repaired, and fortifications extended. Palace of the Louvre and. Hotel de Ville commenced. Wars with the Emperor Charles V. Francis defeated and taken prisoner at Pavia, 1525. Henry II. , 1547, husband of Catherine de Medicis , acciden- tally killed at a tournament (p. 40). Final expulsion of the English. Francis II., 1559, husband of Mary Stuart of Scotland. Charles IX., 1560. The Tuileries erected. Massacre of St. Bartholomew, August 24th, 1572. Henry III., 1574, brother of his two predecessors , assassi- nated at St. Cloud by Jacques Clement , a Dominican friar. Henry IV., 1589, first monarch of the House of Bourbon, conquered the Roman Catholic League at Arques in 1589, and at ivry in 1590, became a Roman Catholic in 1593, besieged and captured Paris in J 594. Sully his minister. Religious toleration granted by the Edict of Nantes. Henry divorced from Margaret of Valois in 1599, married Marie de Medicis the following year; assassinated by Ravaillac 1610. The metropolis greatly embellished during this reign. The Pont Neuf completed, additions made to the Louvre and Tuileries. Louis XIII., 1610, banished his mother Marie de Medicis, who died at Cologne in 1642. Richelieu his minister (d. 1642). English fleet defeated at Rhe, 1627; La Rochelle taken from the Huguenots. The Palais Cardinal (now 'Royal') commenced by HISTORY. XXI Richelieu, and the Luxembourg by Marie de Me'dicis. New bridges, quays, and streets constructed. Jardin des Plantes laid out. Louis XIV., 1643, under the regency of his mother, Anne ol'Austria. Ministers: Mazarin (d. 1661), Louvois (d. 1691"), and Colbert (d. 1683). Generals: Turenne (d. 1675), Conde (d. 1686), Marshal Luxembourg (d. 1695). War of the Fronde against the court and Mazarin. Conde defeated the Spaniards at Rocroy , 1643, and at Lens in Holland in 1645. Submission of the Fronde. Peace of the Pyrenees, 1659. Louis married Maria Theresa, 1660. Part of Flanders con- quered, 1667. Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle , 1668. — War with Holland, 1672. Peace of Nyrnweyen, 1678. Strasbourg occupied, 1681. Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, 1685. Devastation of the Palatinate. The French fleet conquered by the English at La Rogue, 1692. Peace of Ryswyk, 1697. Spanish war ot succession, 1701; the French frequently de- feated by Marlborough and Prince Eugene. Peace of Utrecht and Rastadt, 1714. During this reign upwards of eighty new streets and thirty- three churches were constructed. Hotel des Invalides, Observatory, and the colonnade of the Louvre completed. College Mazarin. Gobelins, triumphal arches, etc. commenced. Fortifications con- verted into boulevarts. Louis XV., 1715, under the regency of the Duke of Orleans. Polish and Austrian wars of succession. Seven years' war with England. Successes of Frederick the Great and Ferdinand Duke of Brunswick against the French 5 battles of Rossbach , Crefeld, Minden, etc. The Pantheon , Ecole Militaire , Palais du Corps Le'gislatif, Hotel des Monnaies, and many other important buildings were erected during this reign. Jardin des Plantes extended. Louis XVI., 1774. 1789. Assembly of the States General at Versailles, May 5th. Formation of the National Assembly, June 17th. Storming of the Bastille , July 14th. Confiscation of ecclesiastical property, Nov. 2nd. 1790. National fete in the Champ de Mars. 1791. The Emigration. The king and royal family escape from Paris , but are intercepted at Varennes, June 20th. 1792. War with Austria, April 20th. Storming of the Tuile- ries, Aug. 10th. The king arrested, Aug. 13th. The National Convention opened, and royalty abolished, Sept. 21st. Republic proclaimed, Sept. 25th. 1793. Louis XVI. beheaded, Jan. 20th. Republican reckoning of time introduced, Sept. 22ndy. Reign of Terror. The queen t The year had 12 months : Vendemiaire (month of the vendangc, or vintage) from Sept. 22nd to Oct. 21st, Brumaire {brume, fog) Oct. 22nd XXII HISTORY. beheaded, Oct. lfith. Worship of Reason introduced, Nov. 10th. Loss of Belgium. 1794. Robespierre's fall and execution, July 28th. Jourdan's victory at Fleurus. Belgium reconquered. 1795. Conquest of Holland by Pichegru. Bonaparte commander of the troops of the Convention against the Royalists under Da- nican, Oct. 3rd. Directory established, Oct. 28th. 1796. Bonaparte's successes in Italy (Milan, Arcole , Rivoli, Mantua, etc.). 1797. Peace of Campo Formio. Change in the Directory caused by the c Revolution of 18th Fructidor', Sept. 4th. 1798. Bonaparte in Egypt. Victory of the Pyramids, July 21st. .Defeated by Nelson at the battle of the Nile, Aug. 1st. 1799. Bonaparte invades Syria. Acre defended by Sir Sidney Smith. Victory of Abouklr , July 25th. Fall of the Directory. Nov. 9th. Bonaparte First Consul, Dec. 25th. 1800. Bonaparte's passage of the St. Bernard, May 13th. Vic- tories at Piacenza, Montebello, and Marerigo. Moreau victorious at Hohenlinden, Dec. 3rd. 1801. Peace of Luneville with Germany, Feb. 9th. 1802. Peace of Amiens with England, March 27th. 1804. Napoleon Bonaparte proclaimed Emperor, May i8th. Coronation by Pope Pius VII., Dec. 2nd. 1805. Renewal of war with Austria. Battle of Austerlitz, Dec. 2nd. Peace of Pressburg, Dec. 26th. 1806. War with Prussia. Battles of Jena and Auerstaedt. Entry into Berlin, Oct. 27th. 1807. War with Russia and Prussia. Battles of Eylau and Friedland. Treaty of Tilsit, July 8th. 1808. War in Spain. 1809. Conquest of Saragassa. Renewed war with Austria, Battle of EckmuhL. Vienna entered, May 13th. Battle of Wagram. Peace of Vienna, Oct. 14th. 1810. Marriage of Napoleon with Marie Louise , daughter of Francis II. of Austria, March 11th. 1812. Renewed war with Russia. Battles of Smolensk and the Moskowa. Moscow entered, Sept. 15th. Retreat commenced to Nov. 20th, F r i m a i r e (frimas, hoar-frost) Nov. 21st to Dec. 20th, were the three autumn-months ; — Xivose (neige, snow) Dec. 21st to Jan. 19th, Pluviose (pluie, rain) Jan. 20th to Feb. 18th, Ventose (vent, wind) Feb. 19th to March 20th, winter-months ; — Germinal (germe, germ), March 21st to April 19th, Flo real (/feur, flower) April 20th to May 19th, Prairial (prairie, meadow) May 20th to June 18th, spring-months; — Messidor f moisson, harvest) June 19th to J uly 18th, Therraidorf therme, warmth) July 19th to Aug. 17th, Fructidor (fruit, fruit) Aug. 19th to Sept. 16th, summer months. — Each month had 30 days and consisted of 3 decads, weeks being abolished. At the close of the year there were 5 Jours compUnu ml 'aires, Sept. 1 7th till 21st. — The republican calendar was discontinued by a decree of Sept. 9th. 1805. HISTORY. XXIII Oct. 19th. Passage of the Beresina. — Wellington's victory of Salamanca. 1813. Battles of Lutzen, Dresden, Leipzig, Hanau, etc. 1814. Battles of Brienne, Montmirail, Laon, Arcis sur Aube, and Paris. Entrance of the allies into Paris, March 31st. Ab- dication of the Emperor, April 11th. His departure for Elba, May 4th. First Treaty of Paris, May 30th. The frightful scenes of devastation which were enacted during the revolution, especially in 1793, need hardly be adverted to; they were , however, beneficial in sweeping away the overgrown conventual establishments, which occupied the best sites, and one- third of the area of the city. Under the Directory the museum of the Louvre was commenced. Vast improvements were effected under Napoleon; the mean buildings which formerly occupied the Place du Carrousel were demolished; the N. gallery between the Louvre and the Tuileries and the handsome Rue de Rivoli were commenced ; new streets, spacious markets, three bridges, quays, canals, etc. constructed; numerous fountains and monuments erected; churches restored and embellished; the Bourse and other public edifices founded. 1.814. The Restoration. Louis XV III. King. 1815. Napoleon's return from Elba. Battles of Ligny and Waterloo. Second entrance of the allies into Paris, July 7th. Napoleon banished to St. Helena, where he died ( May 5th, 1821). 1823. Spanish campaign. 1824. Charles X. 1830. Conquest of Algiers. Revolution of July. Louis Phi- lippe elected king, Aug. 7th. 1848." Revolution of February. Republic. Sanguinary con- flicts in Paris, June 23rd to 26th. Louis Napoleon elected President. 1851. Dissolution of the Assemblee Legislative , Dec. 2nd. Civic improvements progressed comparatively slowly under Louis XVIII. and Charles X. Under Louis Philippe they were resumed with fresh vigour. Many handsome new streets were opened , churches and public edifices completed, vast works un- dertaken for the drainage of the city , new bridges and quays con- structed, gardens and squares laid out, etc., at an outlay exceed- ing 100 million francs. 1852. Napoleon III. , Emperor, elected by universal suffrage (plebiscite), Dec. 2nd. 1854. War with Russia. Crimean campaign. 1859. War with Austria. Battle of Solferino. Peace of Villafranca. 1861. Mexican expedition. 1870. War with Prussia. July 19th. Declaration of war. XXIV STATISTICS. Battles of Weissenburg (Aug. 4th"), Worth (Aug. 6th), Spichem (Aug. 16th), Metz (Aug. 14th, 16th, and 18th), Beaumont (Aug. 30th). Sept. 1st. Battle of Sedan. Surrender of Napoleon III. Sept. 4th. Proclamation of the Republic. Sept. 27th. Capitulation of Strasbourg. Oct. 27th. Capitulation of Metz. Dec. 2nd — 4th. Battles near Orleans. 1871. Jan. 19th. Battle of St. Quentin. Jan. 28th. Capitulation of Paris. March 1st. Entry of German troops into Paris. March 18th. Commencement of the Communist insur- rection. April 2nd. Second siege of Paris. May 10th. Peace of Frankfurt. May 25th. Occupation of Paris by the Government troops. Probably no city in the world ever witnessed such gigantic improvements as Paris under the past re'gime. Dense masses of houses and numerous tortuous streets were replaced by broad boulevarts, spacious squares, and palatial edifices. Public works of colossal magnitude were undertaken , whilst those commenced in former reigns were brought to a successful completion. Em- bellishments on the most extensive scale were effected in the public parks and gardens , and, what is of incalculable importance, the city was thoroughly well drained, lighted, paved and supplied with water. Paris still reaps the benefit of many of these Napoleonic improvements, but it need hardly be said, that the irreparable losses it has recently sustained have deprived it of much of its former attractiveness. Population. According to the latest census (prior to the siege of 1870—1871) Paris contained 1,696,141^(665,000 in 1788) souls, of whom 80,000 were Germans and 5000 English. The Germans settled at Paris and in other parts of France were expelled from the country after the first calamities of the French armies, an unquestionable violation of international law. About one-third of the births are illegitimate. The number of Prote- stants is estimated at 62,000, Jews 20,000, dissentient 30,000, the remainder being Roman Catholics. Extent. The circumference of Paris is upwards of 21 miles ; its area 19,280 acres , or about 30 sq. miles. The Boulevart de Sebastopol , the longest street, is about 2 M. in length. Revenues. The budget of the city of Paris for 1865 amounted to 155,590,040 fr., the expenditure being equal to the receipts. The following items deserve mention. For educational purposes 4,473,101 fr. ; street-cleaning 12,847,900 fr. ; drainage, pavement, gas, etc. 22,447,595 fr. Paris at present contains 503 elementary DISTRIBUTION OF TIME. XXV schools, 293 of which are conducted by lay and 210 by ecclesiastical superintendents. The number of pupils amounts to 94,630. The inner boulevarts, forming one of the most frequented thoroughfares in Paris, are daily traversed by 24,099 horses, and 32,052 daily pass through the former Barriere de l'Etoile, leading to the Bois de Boulogne. Since 1859 the water-conduits have been extended by upwards of 67,000 metres (41 3 / 4 M. ), the drains 39,000 metres (241/2 M.J. A sum of 4,752,000 fr. was also expended in 1865 for architectural and ornamental purposes, 9,000,000 fr. for im- proving the streets, and 25,177,846 fr. for the construction of public edifices, to be erected with the aid of government. The total receipts of the Ave years 1859 — 64 amounted to 834,032,316 fr., the total expenditure to 832,530,330 fr. The annual interest of the civic debt was 13,589,363 fr. V. Distribution of Time. A sojourn of a fortnight or three weeks in Paris may suffice to convey to the visitor a superficial idea of the innumerable ob- jects of attraction which the city contains , whilst a residence of several months alone would enable him thoroughly to explore its vast treasures of art and industry. The following plan, which is topographically arranged , will be found to facilitate the move- ments and economise, the time of the visitor. 1st Day. General survey (p. 35). Walk in the Boulevarts (p. 37), *Place de la Concorde (p. 85), Champs Elyse'es (p. 89), and Palais Royal (p. 51). 2nd Day. **Galleries of the Louvre (p. 54). *Madeleine (p. 118 ), and Chapelle Expiatoire (p. 47). 3rd Day. St. Germain l'Auxerrois (p. 115). Second visit to the Louvre. Place Napoleon and Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel (p. 80). *Jardin des Tuileries (p. 83). 4th Day. Palais de Justice and *Sainte Chapelle (p. 103). *Notre Dame (p. 113). Morgue (p. 109). 5th Day. St. Roch (p. 118). Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers (p. 112). St. Merri and *St. Eustache (p. 116). 6th Day. Palais de 1'lndustrie (p. 90. *Arc de l'Etoile (p. 92). Chapelle St. Ferdinand (p. 94). Bois de Boulogne (p. 95). 7th Day. *Buttes Chaumont (p. 134). Pere Lachaise (p. 123). *July Column (p. 39). Place des Vosges (p. 40). 8th Day. *Jardin des Plantes (p. 155). 9th Day. *Jardin du Luxembourg (p. 147). **Modern pic- tures in the Luxembourg (p. 142). *Pantheon (p. 151). Library of St. Genevieve (p. 153). *St. Etienne du Mont (p. 175). 10th Day. *Muse'e des Thermes et de 1'Hotel de Cluny (p. 147). Hotel des Monnaics (p. 159). *Ecole des Beaux Arts XXYI DISTRIBUTION OF TIME. (p. 1(32). St. Germain des Pres (p. 176). *St. Sulpice (p. 174). Walk through the Quartier Latin. 11th Day. *Ste. Clotilde (p. 177). *H6tel des Invalides and *Napoleon's Tomb (p. 170). Blind Institution (p. 173). Champ de Mars [p. 171). 12th Day. Montmartre (p. 135). ^Cemetery of Montmartre (p. 136). By omnibus to St. Denis (p. 203), and back by railway, *St. Vincent de Paul (p. 121). *Notre Dame de Lorette (p. 120). 13th and 14th Days. ^"Versailles (p. 181). loth Day. St. Cloud and Sevres (p. 199). St. Germain-en- Laye (p. 202). 1 6th Day. *Fontainebleau (p. 210). If the weather be favourable at the commencement of the stranger's sojourn, he should lose no time in visiting the beau- tiful environs of Paris ( days 12 — 16) ; or these excursions may be interspersed among the other sights according to circumstances. The excursions to Versailles, St. Cloud, Sevres, and St. Germain- en-Laye may thus be combined. On the way to Versailles (rive yauche) , an hour may be devoted to Sevres ; in returning (rive droite) , the park of St. Cloud may be visited from the Ville d'Avray station, after which the traveller proceeds on foot to the bridge at Boulogne , whence omnibuses start every 10 min. for Paris (or a walk through the Bois de Boulogne may be preferred). If a second visit be paid to Versailles , Paris should be quitted by the first train in the morning , in order to allow time for the inspection of the gardens (and the Trianons) before the opening of the museum. Omnibus from Versailles to St. Germain by Marly (p. 198) every afternoon in 1 1 / 2 hr. The evening may then be most agreeably spent on the terrace of St. Germain , where a military band occasionally plays. The appended list indicates the days and hours when the different collections etc. are accessible. The early morning and the afternoon may be most suitably devoted to the churches and cemeteries, which are open the whole day, to the Champs Elyse'es. the Jardin des Tuileries, the Jardin des Plantes, and the Jardin du Luxembourg; the evening to the theatres, concerts, etc. Mon- day may generally be spent in this way , as the principal col- lections are then closed. The animated scene presented by the boulevarts may best be witnessed from 4 to 6 in the afternoon, before dinner. It is a wise precaution never to sally forth without a pass- port , or at least visiting-cards, which ensure admission to the collections on days when the public are excluded. The days and hours enumerated below, though at present correct, are liable to occasional variations. Strangers are there- DISTRIBUTION OF TIME. XXYII fore referred to Galignanis Messenger, the Saturday number of which also affords information respecting the Church of England and other services. Collections etc. Bibliotheque Nationale (p. 109), cabinet of medals and anti- quities, Tuesdays and Fridays 10 — 3. Bibliotheque Ste. Genevieve (p. 453), daily except Sundays and holidays 10 — 3 and 6 — 10 p. m. ; closed from Sept. 1st to Oct. 15th; always accessible by payment of a fee. *Blind Institution (p. 173), Wednesdays — 5 (with per- mission previously obtained from the director). Bourse (p. 43), stockbrokers' business hour 1 — 3, open till 5 p. m. St. Cloud (p. 199), park always accessible; the ruins of the chateau may also be inspected. Compicgne (p. 259 J , chateau accessible daily 10 — 4, except Monday. '^'Conservatoire des Arts et Me'tiers (p. 112), industrial collec- tions open to the public Sundays and Thursdays 10 — 4; on other days 10 — 4, admission 4 fr. ; library closed on Mondays. • Deaf and Dumb Institution (p. 173), Saturdays 2 — 5. Ecole des Beaux Arts (p. 162) , containing the celebrated hemicycle painting of Paul Delaroohe, daily 10 — 4, fee 1 fr. ; in Sept. on Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays only. *Fontainebleau (p. 210), chateau daily except Tuesdays, 12 — 4. Hotel des Invalides (p. 167) and church daily. *Napoleon's Tomb, Mond., Tuesd., Thursd., and Sat. 12—3. Military mass on Sundays at 12, followed by parade. Hotel des Monnaies (p. 159), collection of coins, Tuesdays and Fridays 12 — 3 ; workshops at the same hours on the same days, by permission previously obtained from the director. Jardin d'Acclimatation (p. 98), daily from an early hour in the morning till dusk, adm. 1 fr. *Jardin des Plantes (p. 155), botanical open the whole day. zoological from March 1st to Oct. 31st 11 — 5 (Sund. till 6), from Nov. 1st to March 1st 11 — 4; nat. hist, collections open to the public on Tuesdays and Thursdays 2 — 5 (in winter till 4) and Sundays 1 — 5 (in winter till 4), by ticket on Tuesdays, Thurs- days, and Saturdays 11 — 2; hothouses, by ticket daily; inspection of the cages, by ticket daily 1 — 4. **Louvre Galleries (p. 54), daily except Monday, 10 — 4; Marine Museum Sund. and Thursd. only, Ethnograph. Museum Thursd. only, at the same hours. ^'Luxembourg (p. 142), modern paintings and sculptures, daily, except Mondays. 10—4. XXVIII DIARY. Malmaison, la (p. 202) Wed., Thursd., and Sund. 12—4. Muse'e d'Artillerie (p. 164), open to the public on Thurs- days 12—4. *Muse'e des Thernies et de f Hotel de Cluny (p. 147), open to the public on Sundays 11 — 4; with permission previously obtained from the director daily at the same hours. Palais du Corps Le'gislatif (p. 166), picture-gallery daily, with permission of the president, except during the sessions. Sainte Chapelle (p. 105) daily, by special permission. Trianon (p. 198) Mond., Tuesd., and Thursd. 12—4. Tuileries (p. 80), not at present accessible. **Versailles. Musee Historique (p. 184), daily 10 — 4: closed on Mondays. Diary. (To be compared with the preceding alphabetical list.) Daily. Jardin des Plantes, Menagerie 11 — 4 or 5; hothouses by special permission. — Hotel des Invalides. — Palais du Corps Le'gislatif, see above. — Ecolc des Beaux Arts 10 — 4. — Bourse 1 — 3.. — Jardin d'Acclimatation , adm. 1 fr. — Conser- vatoire des Arts et Metiers 10 — 4, Sund. and Thursd. gratis, on other days adm. 1 fr. — Sainte Chapelle by special permission. — Bibliotheque Ste. Genevieve, except Sund. and holidays. — Palais de Justice, except Sund. and holidays. — Fontainebleau, except Tuesdays. Daily except Mondays. Louvre 10 — 4 , all the collections, except the Marine and Ethnograph. Museums. — Luxembourg 10 — 4. — Muse'e des Thermes et de Cluny 11 — 4*/ lbs. avoirdupois = 2 7 / 10 lbs. troy. Quintal = 10 myriagrammes = 100 kilogrammes = 220 lbs. Hectogramme kilogramme) = 10 decagrammes = 100 gr. = 1000 decigrammes. (100 grammes == 3 1 / f) oz.; 10 gr. = i/ 3 oz. ; 7 l / 2 gr- = \U OZ.) Myriametre = 10,000 metres = 6^5 Engl, miles. Kilometre = 1000 metres = 5 furlongs. Hectometre = 10 decametres =100 metres. Metre, the unit of length, the ten-millionth part of the sphe- rical distance from the equator to the pole = 3,0784 (about 37,3) Paris feet = 3,281 Engl. feet= i yd. 3% in. Decimetre ( i/ 10 metre) = 10 centimetres = 100 millimetres, Hectare (square hectometre) = 100 ares = 10.000 sq. metres = 2'/ 2 acres. Are (square decametre) =100 sq. metres. Declare = i/ 10 are = 10 sq. metres. Centiare = '/joo are = 1 sq. metre. Hectolitre = i/ 10 cube metre = 100 litres = 22 gallons. De'ealitre = Yjqq cubd metre = 10 littres = gals. Litre, unit of capacity, = l 3 / 4 pint; 8 litres = 7 quarts. The following terms of the old system of measurements are still occasionally employed : Livre = l /o kilogramme = 17io Pied = 1/3 metre = 13 in. Aune = II/5 metre = i yd. li in Toise = 1 9 / 10 metre = 2 yds. 4- in, Lieue = 2 1 /.? miles. Arpent = IV'25 acre. Setier == l l />> hectolitre = 33 gals. XXX GENERAL REMARKS ON N. FRANCE. The thermometers commonly used in France are the Cen i- grade and Reaumur's. The freezing point on both of these* is marked 0°, the boiling-point of the former 100°, of the latter 80°. It may easily be remembered that 5° Centigrade = 4° Reaumur == 9° Fahrenheit. In converting degrees of the Centigrade or Reaumur into degrees of Fahrenheit , 32° must be added to the result for temperatures above freezing ; for lower temperatures the result must be subtracted from 32°. VII. General* Remarks on N. France. The majority of visitors to Paris will find comparatively little to interest them in the provinces of N. France. The scenery is seldom of so attractive a character as to induce a prolonged stay , whilst the towns are on a small scale mere repetitions of the metropolis. The taste of the present day for improvement, which has been so strongly developed and so magnificently gratified in Paris, has similarly manifested itself in the provincial towns. Broad and straight streets with attractive shop-windows arc rapidly superseding old and crooked lanes ; whole quarters of towns are demolished, and large, regular squares take their place ; while ramparts of ancient fortifications are converted into boule- varts , faintly resembling those at Paris. Admirably adapted as this utilitarian bias doubtless is to the requirements of the 19th century, it cannot but be profoundly regretted that the few charac- teristic remnants of antiquity which survived the storms of the wars of the Huguenots and the great Revolution, and have hitherto resisted the mighty centralising influence of the metropolis , are new rapidly vanishing. Those who were acquainted with such towns as Rouen and Angers twenty or thirty years ago will now become painfully aware of this fact. The towns of France generally present less variety than those of most other countries. They almost invariably rejoice in their boulevarts, glass-arcades, 'jardins des plantes', theatres, and cafe's, all feeble reproductions of their great Parisian models. Each also possesses its museum of natural history, interesting perhaps to the professional visitor, its collection of casts and antiquities, and its picture-gallery, the latter usually consisting of a few modern pictures and a considerable number of mediocre works of the T7th and 18th centuries. The magnificent churches, however, which most of these towns possess, offer attractions not to be disregarded by even the most hasty traveller. The Gothic style, which originated in France, has here attained a high degree of perfection, especially in Normandy, a district so important in the middle ages. Archi- tects will find abundant material here for the most attractive GENERAL REMARKS ON N. FRANCE. XXXI studies, and even the amateur cannot fail to be impressed by the gems of Gothic architecture, such as St. Ouen at Rouen, or the cathedral of Chartres, notwithstanding the alterations which most of them have undergone. The Huguenots made deplorable havoc in the interiors of the churches, and the Revolution followed their example and converted the sacred edifices into 'Temples of Reason 1 . The task of restoring and preserving these noble monuments has recently been commenced and is now everywhere progressing. Railways. A complete network connects Paris with the most important provincial towns. The trains from Paris run on the left, those to Paris on the right line of rails. It should also be observed that passengers always alight on the left side. The fares per English mile are approximately: 1st cl. 18 c. , 2nd cl. 1372, 3rd cl. 10 c. The express trains ( 'trains express ) generally convey first class passengers only. The first class carriages are inferior to those of other parts of the continent, and resemble those on most of the English lines ; the same remark generally applies to the second class also. Smoking is prohibited if any one of the passengers object, unless, as rarely happens, the coupe is specially set apart for the purpose. Tickets for intermediate stations are given up at the 'sortie'; those for termini, before the station is entered. Luggage to the weight of 30 kilogrammes (66 Engl, lbs. ) is free; 10 c. is charged for booking. The railway-porters (facteurs) are not entitled to remuneration, but it is usual to give a few sous for their services. Public omnibuses convey passengers to and from the Parisian stations, to which a few only of the hotels send their own vehicles. Fare 30—40 c, luggage 20 — 30 c. more. The traveller's taste for light literature may be gratified by a purchase at the book-stalls at the stations. The principal newspapers are sold at 5 — 10 c. more here than in the town. Hotels of the highest class and fitted up with modern acces- sories to comfort are encountered only in such towns as Havre, Rouen, Dieppe, Tours, etc., where the influx of visitors is very great. In other places the inns generally retain their primitive provincial characteristics, which, were it not for the frequent absence of cleanliness, might prove rather an attraction than otherwise. Usual charges at houses of the latter description : R. 11/2—2 fr., L. 25—50 6., A. 50 c. As a rule the table d'hote dinner (3 — 4 fr.) at 5. 30 or 6 o'clock is recommended, as a tolerable repast is not easily procured at other places or hours. The de'jeuner (l 1 ^ — ^ at ^ 01 H o'clock will generally be regarded as superfluous by the English traveller, especially as it occupies a considerable time during the best part of the day. A slight luncheon at a cafe, which may- be partaken of at any hour, thus leaving the traveller entire XXXII GENERAL REMARKS ON N. FRANCE. master of his time, will be found far more convenient and expe- ditious. In southern districts, as on the Loire, wine is usually included in the charge for.. dinner. In Normandy a species of cider is frequently drunk in addition to, or as a substitute for wine. The usual fee for attendance at hotels is 1 fr. per day, if no charge is made in the bill ; if service is charged, 50 c. a day in addition is generally expected. At the cafes also the waiters expect a trifling gratuity, but the obnoxious system is not carried to such an extent as in the metropolis. The Churches, especially the more important, are open the whole day. As, however, divine service is usually celebrated in the morning and evening, visitors will And the middle of day or afternoon the most favourable time for their inspection. The attendance of the sacristan, or 'Suisse', is generally superfluous: usual gratuity */ 2 unless the contrary is stated in the follow- ing pages. The Museums are generally open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays from 12 to 4 o'clock, and are often crowded. Visitors may always obtain access at other times for a gratuity (1 fr.). Catalogues may be borrowed from the concierge. The most trustworthy information with regard to the depar- ture of trains is contained in the Indicateur des Chemins de Fer, published weekly, and sold (40 c.) at all the stations. Railway time is always that of Paris, which in many places differs considerably from the real time. Thus the Strasbourg time is 23 min. before, that of Brest 27 min. behind railway time. Considerable English communities are resident in many of the towns mentioned in the Handbook, and opportunities of attending English churches are frequent (e. g. at Calais, Boulogne St. Omer, Dieppe, Havre, Rouen, Caen, Tours, etc.). 1. ARRIVAL IN PARIS. English Physicians, Chemists, etc. The traveller with little luggage is of course the most in- dependent. Small portmanteaus or travelling-bags carried by the owner himself are rarely opened by the officials of the Octroi (municipal tax on bread, meat, etc.); but larger trunks or boxes are sometimes examined. Travellers with direct tickets from Eng- land, or any other foreign country, who have not broken their journey at any intermediate station, usually undergo the custom- house (Douane) examination at Paris instead of at the frontier. This formality occupies 15 — 20 min. As soon as the traveller is released from the Douane , he should secure the services of a porter (facteur, 15 — 20 c), and direct his luggage to be taken to the nearest fiacre (fares see p. 24). Or, better still, lest there should be a scarcity of cabs, he may engage one immediately on his arrival, telling the driver to wait for the luggage ( l restez pour attendre les bag ages' J, and receiving from him his printed number, and then proceed to superintend the examination of luggage. In this case 25 c. must be paid in addition to the fare for the first */ 4 hr., after which the fare per hour is charged. If the traveller be doubtful of obtaining accommodation at the hotel he has selected, he had better at once engage his fiacre a l'heure. The omnibuses, the conductors of which generally endeavour to take possession of the traveller and his luggage, are not re- commended, unless they actually pass the door of the house where the traveller intends to alight (fare 30 c, from midnight till 6 a. m. 60 c, luggage 30—50 c, comp. p. 24). Families or large parties will find an Omnibus de Famille a comfortable and comparatively inexpensive conveyance. These vehicles generally belong to the hotel-keepers, from whom they must be ordered by letter, stating by what train the party may be expected. Or application may be made to the Chef de Gare y. From the stations du Nord, de l'Est, and de TOuest 5 fr. are charged for an omnibus forGpers., and 8 fr. for 14 pers., about 2 cwt. of luggage being allowed for the party. From the f A Monsieur le Chef de Gare de la Station a Paris. Monsieur, je vous prie d^avoir Men Vobligeance de me /aire venir an train de . . heures un omnibus de famille de . . places. Veuillez bien , Monsieur, excuser mon import-unite" el recevoir a Vavance mes remercimeuts et V assurance de ma haute consideration . Baedeker. Paris. 3rd Edition. I 2 1. ARRIVAL IN PARIS. Preliminary stations de Lyon and d'Orleans the charge amounts to about 1 it. for each person. Travellers arriving at night may prefer to engage the services of a porter (facteur) and proceed on foot to the nearest hotel. Near the Station du Nord may be . mentioned the Hotel Cailleux, (R. 2 — 4 fr.), and the Grand Hotel du Chemin de Fer du Nord, both in the Place Roubaix (Plan, Red 10), opposite the station; and the Hotel de St. Quentin, Rue St. Quentin 27. These hotels are also restaurants. The Restaurant of Meysick, at the corner of the Rue Lafayette and the Boulevart de Magenta, is also re- commended. — At the Strasbourg Station (de l'Est) may be mentioned the Hotel de St. Laurent et de Mulhouse, Rue de Metz 4, to the left on leaving the station. Then in the Boule- vart de Strasbourg: 78 Grand Hotel de Strasbourg, 74 *H6tel de V Europe with restaurant, 87 Hotel de Champagne et de Mul- house, 72 Grand Hotel de Paris. — At the Station de VOuest (for Havre, Pieppe, etc.) Hotel de Mayence, 20 Rue d 1 Amsterdam. In order to avoid unnecessary loss of time, the traveller should, if possible, write the forms of application for permission to visit the Hotel de Ville, etc. before leaving home, omitting however to close them, as sealed -.letters are liable to seizure at the custom-house. Suitable forms will in each case be found in the following pages. To ensure civility from servants, officials, and others, the tra- veller in France is cautioned not to omit the inevitable l s*il vous plait', when making a request, or even when ordering refreshments at a cafe or restaurant. Thus He cordon, s'il '. vous plait' is the ex- pression usually employed in requesting the concierge to open the house-door. It should, moreover, be borne in mind that it is customary to address persons of humble station as 'Monsieur', ^Madame', or ' Mademoiselle' . The policemen (Sergents de Ville), who are to be met with in every street and place of public resort, are always ready, when civilly questioned, to furnish strangers with every information in their power. The Parisian police are so efficient and well-orga- nised a body, that street-robberies are of far less frequent occur- rence than in most other large towns. It is, however, advisable to be on one's guard against pickpockets, who are as adroit as the police are vigilant. Should the traveller require medical advice during his stay in Paris, he will do well to note down the address of some respectable physician residing in the neighbourhood of his apart- ments. Among others may be mentioned: Dr. Bishop, Rue Matignon 22; Dr. Burridge, Avenue Montaigne 68; Dr. Camp- bell, Rue Royale St. Honore' 24 ; Dr. Chepmell, Rue Matignon 19; Dr. Churchill, Rue Scribe 7; Dr. James, Rue de Luxembourg 51; Dr. Mac-Carthy , Boulevart Malesherbes 17; Dr. Mac-Gavin, Information. 2. HOTELS. 3 Rue Saussaies 10; Dr. Otterbourg, Boulevart des Capucines 39; Dr. Rayner, Avenue Uhrich 11; Dr. Shrimpton, Rue d'Anjou St. Honore' 17; Dr. Ward, Rue Castiglione 8. — Oculists: Dr. Sichel, Rue Neuve des Mathurins 86; Dr. Herschel, Rue Laffitte 18; Dr. Liebreich, Rue Marignan 21. — Dentists: Mr. George, Rue de Rivoli 224; Mr. Rogers, Rue St. Honore 270; Mr. Seymour, Rue Castiglione 10; Mr. Weber, Rue Duphot 25; Mr. Didsbury, Rue Meyerbeer 3 ; Mr. Gage, Rue de la Paix 3 ; Mr. Neecli, Rue du Faubourg St. Honore 14. — Chemists and drug- gists : Hogg, Rue Castiglione 2; Swann, Rue Castiglione 12. In the case of a serious or tedious illness, the patient cannot do better than enter one of the regular sanitary establishments. The Maison Municipale de Sante, Rue du Faubourg St. Denis 200, deserves special commendation; terms 4 — 15 fr. per diem, inch board, lodging, medical attendance, and medicines. Similar private establishments with regard to which the patient should consult his physician, are more expensive (comp. p. 23). Legal advisers: Mr. Arnold, Rue de laChaussee d'Antin 20; Mr. Digweed, Rue duColyse'e 5, Champs Elysees; Mr. Gardiner, Avenue des Champs Elysees 114; Mr. Maugham, Faubourg St. Honore' 54 ; Mr. Mourilyan, Rue St. Honore 370. 2. HOTELS AND MAISONS MEUBLEES. Hotel-charges were raised considerably at the time of the Exhibition of 1867, but have since been somewhat reduced. The average charges of the last few years arc stated in the Handbook. The disasters of 1871 have in some cases tended to raise, and in others to diminish the previotf^ scale of charges. Those who are desirous of avoiding a disagreeable surprise should of course make enquiries beforehand, especially when a prolonged stay is contemplated. In this case the bill should be demanded every 3 or 4 days, by which means errors, whether accidental or de- signed, are more easily detected. In the case of a departure early in the morning, the bill should be obtained over night; for it is a favourite practice to withhold it till the last moment, when the hurry and confusion render overcharges less liable to discovery. Although Attendance is always an item in the hotel-bill, it is usual to give the head-waiter and the concierge a fee of 1 — 2 fr. per week, and the under-waiter by whom the traveller has been served, about 2 fr. In a few instances the payment for service is left to the discretion of the traveller, who is expected to give 7'2 — 1 fi*- daily. As this is not usually distributed among the servants till the end of the traveller's stay, an occasional extra gratuity will greatly tend to ensure civility. Travellers are cautioned against keeping Articles of Value in the drawers or cupboards of their rooms. They should be en- trusted to the care of the landlord, or sent to a banker. \ * 4 2. HOTELS. Preliminary The largest hotels in the city, and perhaps on the entire con- tinent, are the two following: * Grand Hotel du Louvre, situated between the Louvre and Palais Royal (Plan, white 7), a huge, palatial edifice, the construction of which cost upwards of 50,000-£. The number of rooms is about 700, and upwards of 300 persons frequently dine at the table d'hote. The *Grand Hotel, in the Boulevard des Capucines, nearly opposite the Rue de la Paix (Plan, red 5), contains 70 magnificently furnished saloons and upwards of 600 bedrooms, 5 dining-rooms, a telegraph-office, baths, billiard-rooms, smoking-rooms, reading-rooms, etc. — The charges in both these establishments were somewhat reduced in the summer of 1871. Louvre Hotel: R. from 3 fr., L. and A. 2, B. iy 2 ? dej. with wine 3 l /2> with wine 5 fr. — Grand Hotel: R. incl. A. 5 fr. and upwards, dej. with wine 4, D. with wine 5, pension 20, 25, or 30 fr. per day. — Both of these hotels are replete with every comfort, and travellers are sure to find accommo- dation at either, at any hour of the day or night. Many persons, however, will prefer the smaller, quieter, and less expensive establishments, especially when ladies and children are of the party. Out of the vast number of hotels which Paris contains, a few only of the best-situated and most respectable are here enumerated. Hotel de la Place du Palais Royal f formerly Trois Empereurs), opposite the Hotel du Louvre, entrance in the Rue de Rivoli 170, table d'hote at 6 p. m. 4 fr. incl. wine. Adjacent to is the Maison Meublee du Pavilion Rohan, Rue de Rivoli 172. Hotel du Jardin des Tuileries, Rue d$ Rivoli 206, well spoken of. The following five hotels, situated in the Rue de Rivoli, opposite the garden of the Tuileries, and principally frequented by English travellers, are of the highest class and expensive : * Hotel Meurice, 228; *H6tel Windsor, 226; Hotel Brighton, 218; Hotel Wagram, 208; Hotel Rivoli, 202. *H6tel Bristol, Place Vendome 5 (PI. red, 5); *H6tel du Rhin, Place Vendome 4, D. excl. wine S 1 ^ R» 3 fr. and upwards; Hotel Vendome, Place Vendome 1. In the Champs Elysees, at some distance from the principal attractions: Hotel Meyerbeer, Rue Montaigne 2, in the Cirque des Champs Elysees, good restaurant on the ground-floor; Hotel de Douvres, Rue Montaigne 14 bis. — In the Rue St. Honore (PI. red 5, and white 5): No. 211, Grand Hotel St. James, opposite the Tuileries, with 160 apartments; 223, Hotel de Lille et d' Albion; 239, Hotel de France et de Bath ; 241, Hotel Choiseul ; 256, Hotel de Normandie. Near the Rue St. Honore: Hotel du Danube, Rue Richepanee 11 (PL red, 5). The well-known Hotel de la Rue Roy ale, 25 Rue Royale, the street leading from the Madeleine to the Place de la Concorde, was Information. 2. HOTELS. 5 burned down by the Communists in May 1871. In the parallel street farther W., Rue Boissy d'Anglas, No. 15, is the Hotel Vouillemont. In the two broad and handsome streets which lead from the Place Yendome (PI., red 5) to the Boulevart and the Rue de Rivoli respectively, are situated the following hotels, most of them much frequented by English travellers, all good, but expen- sive: in the Rue Castiglione, No. A Hotel Walther, bLondres, 11 Li- verpool, 12 Castiglione. In the Rue de la Paix, No. 8 *Mirabeau, D. 5 fr. ; 11 and 13 Westminster; 20 Hollande; 22 lies Britan- niques; 24 Splendide Hotel, Place de l'Opera. — In the vicinity, Hotel de Canterbury, Boulevart Victor Hugo 44. In the Rue Neuve St. Augustin, leading to the Rue de la Paix, near the Boulevart des Capucines, are the following less pretending hotels, which are well spoken of: No. 57, Hotel de V Empire, 46 and 48 Hotel de V Orient, 55 de VAmiraute, 67 * Chatham. In the Boulevart des Capucines, opposite the Grand Hotel, two large Maisons Meublees, Nos. 25 and 29. Then No. 5, Hotel de V Opera, opposite the new opera-house; 37, Grand Hotel des Capucines. *H6tel de Calais, Rue Neuve des Capucines 5, near the Place Vendome, R. 2—10 fr., B. t% L. %, A. % fr., D., if pre- viously ordered at the usual hour, 4 fr. In the Rue Laflitte (PL, red 7), leading to the Boulevart des Italiens : No. 20, Hotel Byron, not expensive, good attendance, D. incl. W. at 6 o'cl. 4i/ 2 fr. ; 40 *H6tel Lafitte, R. 2—10, D. excl. W. 4 fr. ; 16, Hotel d'Artois; 32, Hotel Dunkerque et Folkestone. In the Rue Lepelletier No. 5, near the Boulevart des Italiens, Hotel de V Europe. — Farther to the N., in a somewhat remote situation, Grand Hotel de Chateaudun, Rue de Chateau- dun 31, corner of the Rue St. Ge.orges. In the Rue Richelieu (PL red 7, white 7): 17. Grand Hotel d'Orleans; 63. Hotel de Malte, R. 3 — 5, L. and A. 1, D. 3i/ 2 69. Hotel de Valois; 12. Hotel des Hautes Alpes, not far from the Theatre Francais. Grand Hotel de Castille, Rue Richelieu 101, corner of the Boulevart des Italiens. Hotel de Nice et de Savoie, Rue Mazagran 12, a short distance to the N. of the Boulevart Bonne Nouvelle. The hotels garnis in the Rue Favart (No. 2), Place Boieldieu, etc. , at the back of the Opera Comique , are advantageously situated for the visitor to Paris, and less expensive than those of the Boulevarts, while equally comfortable: Hotel Richelieu, Rue Marivaux des Italiens 9, R. 4 fr. ; Hotel Favart, Rue Ma- rivaux 5. In the Cite Bergere (PL, red 7) several unpretending hotels: No. 8, Hotel de la Haute Vienne; 2 bis, Hotel de France, etc. 6 2. HOTELS. Preliminary In the new Rue Lafayette, Square Montholon (PL, red 7), No. 13, Hotel du Square Montholon; beyond it, in the direction of the Boulevarts, No. 56, the large new Hotel d'Espagne et d'Amerique; then, No. 60, the Hotel d' Angleterre et des An- tilles. Hotel des Deux Mondes, Rue d'Antin 8 (PL, red 5), next the Marche St. Hon ore and the Place Vendome. *H6tel des Etrangers, Rue Vivienne 3 (PL, red 7), near the Palais Royal, D. incl. W. 5 fr. , R. from 2*/ 2 fr. , L. 1 fr., A. 75 c. ; not to be confounded with the Hotel des Etrangers in the Quartier Latin (p. 8); Hotel du Cadran, Rue St. Sau- veur 62. Grand Hotel du Perigord, Rue de Grammont 2, between the Palais Royal and the Boulevart des Italiens, R. 4, table d'hote 4 fr.; No. 1, Hotel Manchester. *H6tel Bergere, Rue Bergere 30 bis, 32 and 34 (PL, red 7), an old and respectable house, near the Boulevarts, R. 3, B. l 1 ^? D. 4, A. 3 / 4 fr. — Hotel Bernaud, Cite Bergere 4; Grand Hotel des Arts, same street 7. Hotel de Baviere, Rue du Conservatoire 17 (PL, red 7), R. 3 fr. and upwards, B. 1% *>• at 6 o'cl. 4*/ 2 fr. Hotel de Lyon et de Berlin, Rue du Conservatoire 7, is well spoken of. Hotel du Pavilion de VEchiquier, Rue de l'Echiquier 36, corner of the Rue Haute ville, leading to the Boulevarts Bonne Nouvelle and Poissonniere, R. 2—6, B. I1/4, *table d'hote 4 fr., L. 60, A. 50 e. Hotel du Lion d J Argent, Rue d'Enghien 2 and Rue du Fau- bourg St. Denis 47. — Hotel de Rouen, Rue St. Denis 247, to the S. of the Boulevart St. Denis. Hotel Violet, Passage Violet, Rue Hauteville 29, and Rue du Faubourg Poissonniere 36, near the Boulevarts, but distant from the Palais Royal, R. from 2, D. 4, L. 3/ 4 , A. 3/ 4 f r . * Hotel de 'Cologne, Rue de Tre'vise 10 and 12 (PL, red 7), R. 2—6, B. 1, D. incl. W. 4 fr. — Hotel de la Havane, Rue de Tre'vise 44, R. 2—5 fr. Grand Hotel de I'Athenee, Rue Scribe 13, near the new opera- house (PL, red 5). In the Rue du Helder (PL, red 5), near the Boulevart des Italiens, are situated a number of hotels, where the charges are more moderate than at those in the Boulevart itself: No. 8, Hotel du Tibre, not expensive, a good restaurant in the same house; Hotel du Helder 10; * Grand Hotel Richmond 11, recom- mended for families, but expensive. *H6tel de Bade, Boulevart des Italiens 32, and Rue du Helder 6, D. 6, B. i% A. 1 fr. In the Rue de la Michodiere, No. 9 to the S. of the Boule- Information. 2. HOTELS. 7 vart des Italiens (PL, red, 5 and 7), Hotel de Oand et de Ger- manie, R. and A. 2 1 / 2 > I>. incl. W. 3 ! / 2 fr-j well spoken of. At the extremity of the Rue Taitbout, next to the Boulevart des Italiens, Nos. 4 and 6, Hotel d J Espagne et de Hongrie, well spoken of. In the Rue Drouot, No. 1, near the Boulevart des Italiens (PL, red 7), "Hotel de Russie, R. and L. 4—5, D. incl. W. 5, A. 1 fr. Grand Hotel de la Terrasse Jouffroy , with reading-room, Boulevart Montmartre 10 (PL, red 7). In the Boulevart Poissonniere : No. 30, Hotel Beau Sejour, IL from 2, B. il/ 2 fr. ; 32, Hotel St. Phar, frequented by French visitors from the S. provinces. Hotel Rougemont, corner of the Boulevart and the Rue Rougemont. Grand Hotel Louvois, in the quiet Place Louvois, Rue Lulli 3 (PL, red 7), opposite the Bibliotheque lmperiale, table d'hote 4, R. from 4, B. l 1 /^, A. % fr. ; an old house, most of the rooms small. Hotel des Tuileries, Rue St. Honore' 147, a German house, reading and smoking rooms. Hotel de France et de Champagne, Rue Montmartre 132, near the Bourse, B. 1 fr., no table d'hote. Grand Hotel de Nice, Place de la Bourse 30, a hotel garni, no table d'hote, R. from 2, F. l 1 /^ A - 1 fr- Hotel Ste. Marie, Rue de Rivoli 83 (PL, white 7), corner of the Rue de l'Arbre Sec, not far from the Pont Neuf, in a very central situation, R. 2 — 4 fr. Hotel Coquilliere, Rue Coquilliere 21, near the Palais Royal, also a restaurant, D. excl. W. at O 1 ^ o'cl. 3 fr. Grand Hotel des Gaules et- d' Orient, Rue Coq-Heron 17. Hotel de Nantes, Rue d'Argout (formerly des Vieux Augustins) 47, R. 3, I). 2y 2 fr-; No. 3, Hotel de la Marine Francaise. In the vicinity: Hotel de Toulouse, Rue du Mail 10. Hotel du Nord et du Midi, Rue du Bouloi (PL, white 7). All these near the Palais Royal. Hotel de France (with restaurant), Rue du Caire 3, R. from 2y 4 fr., frequented by men of business from the provinces. The hotels in the Boulevarts de Strasbourg, de Sevastopol, and Voltaire (formerly du Prince Eugene) are more distant from the principal attractions. In the Boulevart de Strasbourg (besides that mentioned at p. 2): 20, Grand Hotel de Sebastopol. In the Boulevart de Sebastopol: 112, Hotel de France et d J Algerie. In the vicinity: Hotel Vauban et du Square des Arts et Metiers, Rue Salomon de Oaus 6, opposite the The'atre de la Gaite'. In the Boulevart de Voltaire No. 6, at its union with the Boulevart du Temple, Hotel International. The hotels on the Left Bank of the Seine are also less 8 2. HOTELS. Preliminary suitable for travellers whose stay in Paris is limited, as they are too distant from the Boulevarts and the Palais Royal, the prin- cipal centres of traffic. Hotel Harcourt, Boulevart St. Michel 3 : Hotel de Cluny, No. 18. — Hotel des Ministres, Rue de l'Uni- versite 32; Hotel de VTJniversite, No. 22. — Hotel des Ambassa- deurs, Rue de Lille 26, etc. — These are all more or less in the style of the Quartier Latin. The following Hotels Oarnis on the 1. bank of the Seine, near the Pont Royal are respectable and not expensive: Hotel de France, Rue de Beaune 5; Hotel de Lorraine, No. 7 (PL, white 5). Hotel de Beam, Rue de Lille 38. In the Boulevart St. Michel, beyond the He du Palais, .No. 6 (to the r. by the fountain), Grand Hotel des Principautes-Vnies ; opposite to it, No. 3, Grand Hotel d'Harcourt; Nos. 14, 21, 41, and 43 are Maisons Meublees. The *H6tel de Londres, Rue Bonaparte 3 (PL, white 6), near the Institut de France, is a favourite resort of scientific men. Maison Meublee, Rue Bonaparte 27, a clean house, with pleasant court, R. 25' — 60 fr. per month. Maison Meublee de Mme Wehrle, Rue St. Vincent de Paul 7, near the Station du Nord (PL, red 8, 10), is recommended, but is somewhat remotely situated. The following Hotels Garnis in the Quartier Latin are respectable houses, and suitable for the traveller of moderate requirements: *H6tcl Corneille, Rue Corneille 5, R. 2- — 3y 2 fr. per day, 30 — 60 fr. per month. Hotel des Etrangers, Rue Racine 2, R. 2 — 4 fr. per day, 30 — 60 fr. per month; opposite to it, Hotel St. Vallery, similar charges ; both of these houses are on the Bou- levart St. Michel, and pleasantly situated. Hotel St. Pierre, Rue de l'Ecole de Medecine 4, R. 25 — 50 fr. per month, table d'hote at 5y2 an( i 6V2 P- m - 5 B. and D. excl. wine 65 — 70 fr. per month. — Single rooms at moderate charges can nowhere be procured so easily as in the Quartier Latin, the great majority of the houses being fitted up for the reception of lodgers. Between Notre Dame and the Jardin des Plantes, on the Quai de la Tournelle 15 (PL, white 10), is situated the *H6tel de la Tour d J Argent, a small but clean and comfortable house (R. 2 fr.). Opposite this hotel is the Ecole de Natation de Vile St. Louis, where the water of the Seine is much purer than in the baths farther down the river. For a stay of some duration, the following lodging-houses may be mentioned as quiet and pleasantly situated : Maison Briquet, Avenue des Champs Elysees 67 and 69; Maison Vanstienne, Rue des Petits Hotels 12, not far from the Strasbourg station; Hotel des Provinces, Rue Geoffroy-Marie 2, Faubourg Montmartre. — Quiet lodgings on the 1. bank of the Seine may be found near the Luxembourg, opposite to the garden, in the Rue Vaugirard, etc. Information. 3. RESTAURANTS . 9 3. RESTAURANTS. Paris is indisputably the cradle of high culinary art. The ordinary tables d'hote convey to the mind but a feeble idea of the perfection to which this art is carried; the 'chefs d'oeuvre' must be sought for in the first-class restaurants. It must, however, be borne in mind that in one of these establishments the taste of the connoisseur can hardly be adequately gratified at a less expenditure than 10 — 15 fr. A few of the best and most respectable restaurants, especially in the most frequented situations (Palais Royal, Boulevarts, etc. ) are here enumerated. The charges are mentioned approximately, but it should be observed that they have been rising steadily within the last few years in consequence of the enormous rents paid for these establishments; the prices of many of the neces- saries of life have moreover been raised since the Revolution of 1870—71. At the large restaurants the portions are usually very ample, so that one portion suffices for two persons, or two portions for three. The visitor should therefore avoid dining alone. It is even allowable to order one portion for three persons. In the establishments of the better class, ladies may always without the slightest impropriety be of the party. At some of the less fashionably situated restaurants (see p. 14) the viands are as good as those in the restaurants of the Palais Royal and the boulevarts, but less expensive. The Bill of Fare often consists of a book of many pages, bound in velvet. Whatever dish is selected, it is sure to be found unexceptionable of its kind. At the smaller restaurants it is not prudent to order any dish which is not mentioned in the 'carte du jour . . The subjoined list is given with a view to make the stranger acquainted with the names of the commonest dishes rather than with those of Parisian delicacies. The triumphs of Parisian culinary skill consist in the different modes of dress- ing fish and filet de boeuf, and in the preparation of friean- deaus, mayonnaises, and sauces. Huitres, oysters, 1 fr. 10 c. — 2 1 / 2 fr- per doz. Potage a la Julienne, soup containing finely cut vegetables. Potage a la puree aux croutons, a kind of pea-soup with dice of toasted bread. Cornichons, pickled cucumbers. Oseille, sorrel, very popular in Paris. Pommes, potatoes (it is not customary to add de terre). Pommes sautees, potatoes stewed in butter. Pommes a la mattre d' hotel, potatoes with parsley and butter. Puree de pommes, mashed potatoes. Petits pois, green peas (au sucre or au beurre). Haricots verts, green beans. 10 3. RESTAURANTS. Preliminary Haricots blancs , white beans , a standard dish among the French middle classes. Flageolets, a superior quality of white beans. Canard aux navets, roasted duck with turnips, a popular dish. Pieds de cochon a la Sainte Menehould, pig s pettitoes sea- soned, a favourite dish, often exposed to view in shop-windows. Beefsteak bien cuit, beefsteak well-done, saignant underdone. Filet de Bozuf, a favourite dish of the French. Chateaubriand, a kind of beefsteak, but thicker. Fricandeau, larded veal-cutlet. Oigot, leg of mutton. Foie de veau, calves' liver. Rognons, kidneys. Poulet, chicken. Un quart de poulet is a sufficient portion for one person. Filets de chevreuil, roasted venison. Perdrix, partridge; aux choux, with cabbage and sausages. Perdreaux, young partridges. Sole au gratin, friend sole. Turbot, turbot; Barbu, a kind of plaice. Raie, roach. Maquereau, mackerel. Monies, mussels. Omelettes of different kinds, aux confitures, aux fines herbes, au fromage, au rJium, aux rognons, etc. Beignet de pommes, apple-fritters. Meringues, cream-tarts. Caraffe f rappee, caraffe of iced water. Vin frappe, wine in ice. The wines principally in vogue are (Bordeaux) St. Emilion and St. Julien(?> — 4 fr.), Chateau Larose, Ch. Latour , and Ch. Lafitte (6 — 8 fr.); Haute Sauterne is a white Bordeaux wine (3—4 ft.). Btaune(2^ 2 — 4fr.), Fomard, Volnay, Nuits (4— 5 fr. ), Romanee, and Chambertin (5 — 8 fr.) are wines of Burgundy. Montrachet (4 fr.) and Hermitage (6 fr.) are white Burgundy wines. Fromage Suisse is a kind of cream-cheese ; Fromage de Brie and Gruyere are also popular; Camembert and Roquefort are most esteemed in winter. It should be observed that if the diner partakes of the 'hors d'oeuvre' presented to him between the courses, consisting of radishes, prawns (crevettes), etc., his bill will swell into pro- portions for which he is probably not prepared. The ordinary red table-wine is usually drunk mixed with water (or better, with aerated water, of which a 'siphon', or a 'demi-siphon' may be ordered), a precaution especially recom- mended in the inferior restaurants. A whole bottle is often placed on the table for each person , unless half a bottle only is expressly ordered. Information. 3. RESTAURANTS. 11 The Parisian dinner-hour is between 5 and 8 o'clock. The principal restaurants are generally crowded between 6 and 7; strangers will therefore rind it pleasanter to dine between 5 and 6. 'Garcon, Vaddition, s J il vous plait!' 'Waiter, the bill!' The waiter then brings the account from the L dame de comptoir' ; on receiving payment he expects a fee of 5 or 6 sous (4 — 5 in the inferior restaurants). The attention shown to the regular fre- quenters of a restaurant is of course mainly dependent on the fees which the waiters receive from them. Travellers may generally avail themselves of one of the Tables d'Hote (5 or 6 p. m.) at the hotels without being resident in the house, but in some cases they are required to give previous notice of their intention. The 'Diners a Prix -fixe' have comparatively recently come into vogue. They resemble the tables d'hote, with the exception that the diner is at liberty to come at any hour between 5 and 8 (dej. from 10 to 1), and is enabled to dine much more expeditiously ; or , if so disposed, he may prolong his repast to an hour or more. Payment in some instances is made at the door on entering. In cases where a whole bottle of table-wine is included in the charge for dinner, half a bottle of a better quality may alw T ays be obtained in its stead. Meats and vege- tables are served separately; those who prefer them together must make known their wish. The cuisine is sometimes scarcely inferior to that of the best restaurants. These establishments are recommended to travellers who . are not au fait at order- ing a French dinner. The traveller should bear in mind that, at the cheaper re- staurants where he partakes of four or rive different dishes and half-a-bottle of wine for 2 or 2y 2 fr. , it is utterly impossible that the viands should always be of the best quality. The chief endeavour of such establishments is to provide a varied and showy, rather than a wholesome repast, and they should therefore be patronised but sparingly. The quality of the food at the Maisons Duval (p. 14) is generally unexceptionable, and these 'etablissements de bouillon' are therefore preferable in many respects to their more attractive rivals. The connois- seur in the culinary art will of course avoid the 'diner a prix lixe', and betake himself with one or two discriminating friends to a restaurant of the best class , where he need be under no unpleasant apprehensions. Even the solitary traveller will exercise a wise discretion in selecting houses of the best class, at which a simple repast of 2 — 3 courses may be obtained for a reason- able sum. While the Editor here enumerates some of the principal restaurants in the quarters of Paris chiefly frequented by strangers, he begs to remind his readers that there are many others of 12 3. RESTAURANTS. Preliminary every possible description in every part of the city. Wherever the traveller may chance to take up his abode, he may depend on obtaining a tolerable breakfast and dinner at some restaurant in his immediate vicinity, although the house may not be men- tioned in the Handbook. Diners a Prix-fixe in the Palais Royal and Vicinity. The charges in each case vary according to the quality of the wine desired. North Side (Galerie Beaujolais), No. 88, Tissot alne, de- jeuner I1/2, diner 2 fr., with better wine 2*/ 2 fr. West Side (Galerie Montpensier) , the pleasantest on hot afternoons because in the shade: No. 65, Adolphe Tavernier jeune (A. Boutillac, successeur), D. 2 or 272 fr. ; 40 and 41 Trappe, same charges; 36 Leblanc ('Diner du Palais Royal'), de'j. l 1 / 2 - D. 3 fr. East Side (Galerie Yalois): No. 167 Richefeu, dej. II/9, D. 21/2 fr. ; 160 Louard ('Henri IV.'), dej. i% D. 1 fr. 60 c. or 2 fr.; 142 and 145 Demory jeune, de'j. i*/ 2 , I). 2 fr. ; 137 Richard, de'j. f%, D. 2 J / 2 fr. Near the Palais Royal and the Louvre : Laur. Catelain, Rue Montpensier, D. 2 1 /o fr.; Catelain alne, Rue de Yalois Palais- Royal 9, D. 21/2 fr. Tables d'hote of moderate pretension, from 5 to 7 o'clock (a fresh table every y 4 hr.): Vve Derame, Rue Notre Dame, des Yictoires 16; Mathon, Rue Coquilliere 20, etc. Diners a Prix-fixe in the Boulevarts etc. Diner du Paris, Boulevart Montmartre 12, entrance in the Passage Jouffroy 11 (PL, red 7), 2 fr n 20 „ 35 „ 50 „ 70 L 85 1 » 1 20 1 35 1 50 1 70 1 85 2 fr. 25 „ 20 „ 40 „ 60 „ 75 L 95 1 15 1 35 1 50 1 70 1 90 2 10 2 fr. 50 „ 25 „ 45 „ 65 „ 85 1 05 1 25 1 50 1 70 1 90 2 10 2 30 2 fr. 75 „ 25 » 50 „ 70 „ 95 1 15 1 40 1 60 1 85 2 10 2 30 2 55 3 f r „ 25 „ 50 „ 75 1 „ ll 25 1 50 1 75 1 « 2 25 2 50 2 75 If the carriage is engaged before 12. 30 at night the day- charges only can be demanded, if before 6 (or 7) a. m. the night- charges must be paid, although the drive be prolonged beyond these limits. Drivers are not bound to convey passengers beyond the forti- fications between midnight (or in winter 10 p. m.) and 6 a. m. If the horses have been used beyond the fortifications lor 2 consecutive hours, the driver can demand a rest of 20 min. at the expense of the hirer. If a carriage is engaged beyond the fortifications to return to the town, the town-charges alone can be exacted; in the. re- verse case, the increased rate is paid from the moment the forti- fications are passed. If the hirer's destination be a theatre, concert-room, etc., he must pay in advance. Bridge-toll is paid by the driver, unless the crossing has taken place at the express desire of the hirer. Gratuities cannot be demanded by the drivers, but it is usual to give 10 — 20 c. per course, or 25 — 50 per hour, in ad- dition to the fare. Those who are desirous of exploring Paris expeditiously and comfortably are recommended to hire a Voiture de Remise by the day (25 — 30 fr.) or by the week ( l Combien, par jour, pourboire compris, pour une voiture a deux ou a quatre places, avec un ou deux chevaux? La voiture sera a ma disposition de huit heures du matin a huit heures du soir, et it a au Bois de Bologne, a Saint- Denis, a Saint-Cloud et a Sevres'). 9. OMNIBUSES. There are 31 different lines of omnibuses in Paris, all of which belong to one company. They are distinguished by the letters of the alphabet, the colour of their lanterns and of the vehicles themselves. In the annexed list the starting-point and destination of each are furnished with references to the coloured plan at the end of the book. 26 9. OMNIBUSES. Preliminary' From to Omnibus Lantern. A. Palais-Royal Passy and Auteuil '•' , (white 7) . . . ^Willie 11 • • • • yellow . ieci B. Chemin de fer de PEst (red 9) . . Trocadero (r. 2) Avenue de ^feuilly (i*.4). y e J l o w . . .i i reel anu green C. Louvre (w. 7) . . yellow . . red D. Ternes (r. 2) . . linnl TTiIIpg fin Pal- X3UIX1. X 1 111 Co UlL Kjcbl vriirp (w a t p1 1 r»AV \/ C11U W . . E. Bastille (w. 10) . Madeleine (r. 4). . . yellow . . F. Bastille (w. 10) . Monceaux (r. G) • . dark brown. 1 reel G. Jardin des Plantes (w. 10) . . . . T-iii 1 1 cm nl 1 pc fr* f\ \ Drown . green H. Odeon (w. 8) . . Clichv (r. 6) yellow . . 1 I. Halle aux Vins (w. 10 and blue 10) Place Pigalle (r. 8) green . . . red J. Place Rochechouart Boul. de la Glaciere (r. 8) . . . rbl 7i yellow . . 1 iet K. College de France (w. 8) . . . . La Chapelle (r. 10) yellow . i i ;jr re a. Palais-Royal (w. 7) . . . . Plafp rln TVAtip (w Md 1 laUC 11 11 llUlIv (Vl'i H-J. yellow . . d le R. St. Philippe du Porte Charenton Route (r. 3) . . (bl. 14) viol, and red s. Louvre (w. 7) . . Bercy (bl. 13) yellow . . red and white T. Place Montholon (r. 8) . . . . fiarp rTTvrv fhl 1 1 1 yellow . . yellow u. Pointe St. Eustache (w. 7) . . . . P.iertrp fhl 7 yellow . . green and red V. Chemin de fer du l\ T ord (r. 10) . . Par rln Mainp fhl fK\ lull, 1,111 Itlcllllt ^Ml. \} ) • green and red X. Place du Havre (r. 5) .... \ r :i 11 a\ t>i y(\ (\\\ !l\ * ttllgllctlU \U1. • • y 61x0 w . • ritnipn 5111 fl TPrl pi cell eMail I Cll Y. Porte St. Martin (r. 9) . . . . Crenelle (w. 2) . . pale brown . red and white z. Bastille (w. 10) . ( -rl*An a! 1 P ( \\7 0^ \JTlClll_llC V W • ... } 1 I'M W 11 Ml U W 11 • . °'reen AB. Place de la Bourse (r. 7) . . . . Passy (w. 1) green re en AC. Champs Elysees (r. 3) . . . . Ppfifp Villpttp fr> 1fh i cuic v iiiciic (i. iyj) green . . . i i reel anu green AD. Chateau d'Eau (r.9) Pont de PAlma (w. 1) . green . . . °*r een AE. Arts et Metiers Avenue de "Vincennes (r. 7) . . . . (w. 14) green . . . green AF. Place de Courcelles (r. 2) . . . . Pantheon (bl. 8) . . green . . red AG. Chemin de fer de PEst (r. 10) . . Montrouge (bl. 3) . . [dark brown. red It is of course no easy matter to become thoroughly acquainted with the above labyrinth of routes. The stranger who makes a stay in Paris of some duration, and desires to avail himself of Information. 9. OMNIBUSES. 27 these conveyances, should purchase an omnibus-plan of Paris (1 fr.), or a Clef or Itineraire des Omnibus (20 c), which are to be had at the omnibus offices, but are unfortunately not always entirely trustworthy. The fares for all the above routes are the same, 30 c. inside, and 15 c. outside (imperiale). If the omnibus does not go in the direct route to the passenger's destination, he may apply to the conductor for a 'correspondance' with the line which will convey him thither. He will then receive a '■bulletin ', or receipt for his fare and a L cachet', or check-ticket, and will be set down at the point where the two lines cross. Here he proceeds to the omnibus- bureau and receives a new cachet which, without any additional payment, entitles him to a seat in the first omnibus going in the desired direction. Outside passengers are not entitled to correspondence, unless they pay the full fare (30 c). On Sundays and holidays tickets are not issued on some lines. When the omnibuses are full, the conductor exhibits a ticket announcing that his vehicle is 'com,plet\ The principal omnibus-bureau is in the Place du Palais Royal, situated in the very heart of the city. Other offices are at the following places: Boulevart de la Madeleine 27, des Italiens 8, du Temple , des Filles du Calvaire , de la Bastille 2 , Porte St. Martin, etc. — On the Left Bank of the Seine: Place St. Sul- pice 6, 8 and 10, at the Odeon, Pont Neuf, Place du Palais de Justice, etc. — Immediately on arriving at the office the traveller should at once apply for a cachet, which ensures his obtaining a seat in his turn. Horse Railway (Chemin de Fer AmAricain), Rue du Louvre 8 (opposite the colonnade), from 9 a. m. every hour fin summer oftener) via Passy , Auteuil, Bois de Boulogne, Le Point du Jour and Boulogne to the Pont de St. Cloud, and via Auteuil, Billancourt, Sevres, and Viroflay, to Versailles. 10. RAILWAY-STATIONS. RAILWAY-OMNIBUSES. Paris possesses eight railway-stations, the lines radiating from which are managed by six different companies. 1. Chemin de Fer de l'Ouest. Two stations. a. Rue St. Lazare 124, and Rue d' Amsterdam 9, at the corner (PI., red 6) for the J Agnes de Banlieue (suburbs) and the Lignes de Normandie, to St. Germain, Auteuil, St. Cloud, Versailles (r. bank), Argenteuil, and Ermont (entrance for all these in the Rue St. Lazare), and to Havre, Dieppe, Rouen (r. bank), Amiens, and Cherbourg (entrance for these stations in the Rue cVAmsterdam ). Bureaux Succursales , from which special omnibuses (30 c.) 28 10. RAILWAY- STATIONS. Preliminary run in connection with all these trains: Rue des Quatre Fils 10; Rue de l'Echiquier 27; Place de la Bourse; Pointe St. Eustache (near the church); Place St. Andre des Arts 9. b. Boulevart Montparnasse 44 (PL, blue 6) for the Ligne de Banlieue Paris- Sevres -Versailles (1. bank), and the Liynes de Bretagne to Brest, Le Mans, Rennes, and Angers. Bureaux Succursales : Rue Royale 1 1 , near the Madeleine ; Place de la Bourse; Place du Chateau d'Eau, corner of the Rue and the Boulevart du Temple; Rue Bourtibourg 4, near the Hotel de Ville; Place du Palais Royal 2; Place St. Andre des Arts 9. 2. Chemin de Fer d'Orleans. Two stations. a. Quai d ' Austerlitz (PL, blue 11) for the lines to Or- leans, Tours, Bordeaux, etc. Bureaux Succursales: Rue St. Honore 130, and Rue Jean- Jacques Rousseau 18; Rue Notre Dame des Yictoires 28; Rue de Londres 8; Rue Coq-Heron 17; Rue de Babylone 7; Place St. Sulpice 6 ; Place de la Madeleine 7. Railway-tickets includ- ing the omnibus-fare may be procured at these offices. b. Boulevart d'Enfer (PL, blue 5, 7) for the local lines to Sceaux and Orsay-Limours. Bureaux Succursales: Rue de Londres 8; Rue Notre Dame des Victoires 28 ; Rue St. Honore 130. 3. Chemins de Fer de Paris a Lyon et a la Mediterrannee . Station in the Boulevart Mazas (PL, blue 12) for the line to Fontainebleau, CI talons- sur-Marne, Dijon, Neuclidtel. Geneva, Lyons, Marseilles. (Opposite the station, towards the N., rises the Prison Mazas, a model prison with 1260 cells for solitary confinement, where the generals and deputies arrested after the coup d'etat in 1851 were incarcerated, and frequently mentioned in the dark annals of 1871). Bureaux Succursales : Rue de Rambuteau 6 ; Rue Coq-Heron 6 ; Rue de Rennes 45; Rue St. Lazare 88; Boulevart de Stras- bourg 5; omnibus from each of these in time for every train. 4. Chemins de Fer de l'Est. Two Stations. a. Place de Strasbourg (PL, red 10) for the line to Strasbourg, and the branches to Mannheim, Rheims, Metz, Troyes, and Bale. Bureaux Succursales: Rue du Bouloi 7 and 9; Boulevart de Sebastopol 34; Rue Quincampoix 47 and 49; Place de la Bastille, at the Vincennes station ; Place St. Sulpice 6 ; Rue Basse du Rempart 50 (in the Boulevart des Capucines, near the Grand Hotel). Omnibuses from all these offices; fare 30 c, luggage 30 c' b. Place de la Bastille (PL, white 12), for the line to Yincennes only. Bureau Succursale: Place de la Bourse. Information. 11. STEAMBOATS. 29 5. Chemins de Fer du Nord. Station in the Place Rou- baix, 18 (PI., red 10), for the Lignes de Banlieue to Louvres, Creil, Senlis, St. Denis, Enghien, for the Lignes du Nord to Amiens, Boulogne, Calais (and Iuondon), and those to Brussels and Cologne. Bureaux Succursales: At the Hotel du Louvre, in the Rue de Rivoli; also at Nos. 170, 202, and 226 Rue de Rivoli; Rue St. Honore 211 and 226; Rue de l'Arcade 17; at the Grand Hotel, Boulevart des Capucines. Omnibus from these offices 60, luggage under 60 lbs. 30 c, and 1 c. for every 2 lbs. more. 6. Chemin de Fer de Ceinture. This railway, which in some respects resembles the London Metropolitan, connects the different railway stations of Paris, and describes a circuit round the entire city, within, and generally skirting, the fortifications. Construction of the line interesting at places. Fares very moderate, 80 or 50 c. for the entire circuit, which occupies about 2 hrs.; less for shorter distances. Trains from the St. Lazare and the Cour- celles Ceinture stations every half-hour. 11. STEAMBOATS. Small steamers ply on the Seine between the Pont Royal and St. Cloud, descending in % hr. , returning in l 1 /.2hr.; fares 50 c. — 1 fr. The trip is a pleasant one, the landscape picturesque and animated. A small steamboat also generally plies between Berry and Auteuil, fare 25 c. 12. THEATRES. The performances commence at various hours between 6 and 8 o'clock, and generally last till midnight. As the hours for opening the doors are frequently changed, the play -bills should always be consulted beforehand. The theatres present to the stranger a highly characteristic phase of Parisian life, and he should on no account omit to visit all the principal ones. As, however, some acquaintance with the colloquial and slang expressions of every day life is requisite, and cannot be acquired without a sojourn in Paris of considerable duration, strangers are strongly recommended to purchase the play to be performed, and peruse it carefully beforehand. Tresse, Palais Royal, Galerie de Chartres 2, 3 and Rue Ste. Anne 14, may be mentioned as a dealer in all kinds of dramatic com- positions. The best places are the stalls in front of the orchestra (fau- teuils d'orchestre), behind which are the stalles d'orchestre ; those behind the pit (stalles d' amphitheatre), and those in front of the first tier of boxes (fauteuils de balcon, de la premiere galerie). Ladies are not admitted in some theatres to the orchestra stalls. 30 1*2. THEATRES. Preliminary It is a wise precaution, especially in the case of very popular performances, to secure a good seat by purchasing a billet de location beforehand at the office of the theatre, or at the prin- cipal office (location-office des theatres) in the morning. The visitor should be careful to select a numero de face, and not de cote. These billets de location generally cost 1 — 2 fr. more than au bureau, i. e. at the door, but the purchaser has the satisfaction of knowing that his seat is reserved. Strangers are particularly cautioned against purchasing tickets from 'valets de place" and similar individuals , who frequently hover about in the vicinity of the theatres and endeavour to impose on the public. The Parterre or pit is always crowded. Those who wish to secure a tolerable seat in this part of the theatre should be at the door at least an hour before the commencement of the play, and,, with the exact entrance-money in hand, fall into the rank (faire queue) of other expectants. . Frequenters of the pit, on leaving the theatre between the acts, usually secure their seats by attaching their handkerchiefs to the bench. In order to become acquainted with the internal arrangements of each theatre , the stranger should consult the plan of the building at the office. Most of them have their premieres, deuxiernes, troisiernes de face or de cote (box-places in the first, second, or third row, in front or at the side), baignoires or loges de rez-de-chaussee (pit-boxes), etc. The best places for ladies are the boxes and the fauteuils de balcon. The Claque (or les Romains), or paid applauders , form an annoying, although characteristic feature in most of the theatres. They usually occupy the best seats in the pit, and are easily re- cognised by the simultaneous and energetic concussions of their vulgar palms. There are even ' entrepreneurs de succts dramatiques\ a species of mercantile adventurers who furnish theatres with claques at stated terms. Strange as it may seem to the visitor, all attempts to abolish this nuisance have hitherto failed. Paris contains upwards of 40 theatres. In consequence of a decree of January 7th, 1864, granting additional facilities for the erection of new theatres, and abolishing certain monopolies, the number has greatly increased of late. A list of the most important, according to the order prescribed by the police, is here annexed. The Opera, Rue Lepeletier 12 and Rue Drouot (Pi/, red ?), to the N. of the Boulevart .des Italiens ('Grand-Opera, Acade- mie Nationale de Musique J ), was founded in 1671, and, in con- sequence of the murder of the Due de Berry (p. 109), removed to its present site in 1821. The building will eventually be superseded by the magnificent new structure near the Boulevart des Capucines , opposite the Rue de la Paix , now in course of construction, and to be completed in 1872. The government Information. 12. THEATRES. 31 contributes 800,000 fr. (32,000 £.) annually towards its support, to which 100,000 fr. was formerly added by the Emperor from the civil list; the gross annual receipts are about 1,200,000 fr. The staff of performers is about 250 in number; a good tenor receives a salary of 80,000 fr.; composers and authors of new pieces are each paid 500 fr. for each of the first forty, and 200 fr. for each subsequent representation. The house is cap- able of accommodating 1789 persons. Office in the Rue Drouot, generally open at 10 a. m. Performances on Mondays, Wed- nesdays, and Fridays. Stalles d'amphiteatre 12 fr. {location 15 fr.); stalles d'orchestre 10 fr. {location 12 fr.); pit (seats numbered) 5 fr. {location 7 fr.). The Theatre Francais, Rue Richelieu 6, (PI., white 7), on the S.W. side of the Palais Royal, was at one time ex- clusively devoted to the highest order of dramatic composition. Although this is now no longer the case, it is still considered to occupy the highest rank, and the government contributes 240,000 fr. to its support; the acting is admirable and the plays generally are of the best description. This theatre was founded in 1600, and was under the superintendence of Moliere from 1658 until his death in 1673. Voltaire's Irene was represented here in 1768 and received with thunders of applause; the author, then in his 84th year, was present on the occasion. — Seats for 1380. Fauteuils d'orchestre 6 fr. {location 8 fr.), parterre 2^2 fr- The Theatre Italien or Italian Opera, is situated to the S. of the Boulevart des Italiens, in the Place Ventadour (PJ., red 5): entrance on the N. side from the Rue Neuve St. Augustin, on the S. from the Rue des Petits Champs. Performances on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays ; performances of the highest class; admirable staff of performers. The claque (p. 30) has happily been banished from this theatre. When Mile. Patti sings the prices are considerably raised. — Seats for 1550. Fauteuils d'orchestre and de balcon (ladies admitted) 18 fr. ; stalles d'or- chestre (formerly the parterre) 10 fr. Ire loge 18, 2de loge 12, 3me loge 7 fr. Location not more expensive. The Ope'ra Comique , Place Boieldieu or des Italiens (PI., red 7), is devoted to the performance of the lesser operas, La Dame* Blanche, Postilion de Lonjumeau, Fra Diavolo, Domino Noir, Etoile du Nord, etc. It receives an annual contribution of 240,000 fr. from government. — Seats for 1500. Fauteuils d'or- chestre 7 fr. {location 8 fr.), fauteuils de balcon en location 9 fr., fauteuils de la premiere galerie en location 9 fr. , stalles d'or- chestre 4 fr. {location 5 fr.), parterre 272 fr- {location 3*/2 fr 0- The Ode'on, Place de l'Odeon (PL, white 8), near the Palais du Luxembourg, ranks next to the The'atre Francais, and is de- voted principally to the performance of the most classical dramas. 32 12. THEATRES. Preliminary One of the reasons which Louis XVI. assigned for the erection of this theatre in 1779 was, L que nos sujets, avant d'entrer et en sortant du spectacle, auront a proximite tine promenade dans les jardins du Luxembourg'. The 'promenade en sortant' is, how- ever, no longer practicable, as the Luxembourg gardens are closed at sunset. — Seats for 1467. Fauteuils d'orchestre (to which ladies are admitted) 5 fr. [location 7 fr.); parterre 2 fr. (loca- tion 3 fr.); no performances' in summer. The Theatre Lyrique, Place du Chatelet (PI., white 7), destined for the operas of French composers , and for those of Mozart and Weber, was founded as a Theatre Historique by Alex. Dumas in 1847, in the Bou- levart du Temple, whence it was removed to the present site in 1862. This favourite and well-conducted theatre was set on fire by the Communists and almost entirely destroyed on May 24th, 1871. Theatre du Chatelet, Place du Chatelet (PL, white 7), for military melodramas, fairy pieces, and ballets. — Seats for 3352. Fauteuils d'orchestre 5 fr. ; stalles d'orchestre 4 fr. (lo- cation 5 fr.); parterre 2 fr. — This theatre was also set on fire by the Communists on the same day as its opposite neigh- bour, after having been abundantly prepared for a conflagration by means of paper, old clothes, broken furniture, etc. soaked in petroleum. After the departure of the miscreants, two brothers connected with the Figaro newspaper, who had sought refuge in the building, left their hiding place, and with the aid of some neighbours succeeded in extinguishing the flames after two days and nights of incessant toil. The entire wardrobe of the actors and actresses was destroyed, but no other damage sustained. Theatre des Varietes, Boulevart Montmartre 7 (PL, red7), for Vaudevilles and farces. Seats for 1240. Fauteuils d'or- chestre and de balcon 6 fr. (lacation 8 fr.), parterre 2 l / 2 fr- Theatre du Vaudeville, at the corner of the Rue de la Chaussee d'Antin and the Boulevart des Capucines (PL, red 5), a handsome new building, completed in 1869, admirably fitted up, and lighted on a new system. It is chiefly destined for Vaude- villes and comedies. — Seats for 1900. Fauteuils d'orchestre and de galerie 6 fr. The Theatre du Gymnase Dramatique, Boulevart Bonne Nouvelle 38 (PL, red 7), for vaudevilles and comedies, is de- serving of commendation. Its pieces are frequently deemed worthy of being performed in the Theatre Francais. Scribe wrote most of his plays for this theatre , which enabled him to amass a considerable fortune. His country-seat at Cericourt bore the inscription: 'Le theatre a paye cet asile champetre; Vous qui passez, merci! je vous le dois peut-ttre.' Seats for 1050. Fauteuils d'orchestre and de balcon 6 fr. (loca- tion 7 fr.); stalles d'orchestre 5 fr. (location 0 fr.), parterre 2i/ 2 fr. (location 3 fr.) Information. 12. THEATRES. 33 Theatre du Palais Royal, at the N. W. corner of the Palais Royal 71, 75 (PL, white 7), a small but very popular theatre for Vaudevilles and farces, occasionally not altogether of an unexceptionable description. Seats for 950. Fauteuils and loges de balcon, and loges de galerie and d'orchestre 6 fr. (loca- tion 7fr.); parterre 2 fr. Theatre de la Porte St. Martin, Boulevart St. Martin 16, 18 (PL, red 9) , for plays and ballet , one of the largest in Paris , where the best pieces of Victor Hugo, Alex. Dumas, and other eminent dramatists were performed for the first time, was set on fire by the Communists on May 25th, and entirely destroyed. Theatre de la Gaite, Square des Arts et Me'tiers (PI., red 9), for melodramatic pieces, newly fitted up in 1861 — 62. — Seats for 1800. Fauteuils d'orchestre 5 fr. (location 7 fr.); stalles d'orchestre 3 fr. (location 5 fr.); parterre 2, fr. Theatre de 1' Ambigu-C omique , Boulevart St. Martin 2 (PL, red 9), for melodramas and vaudevilles. Fauteuils d'orchestre 5 fr. (location 6 fr.); stalles d'orchestre 3 fr. ; parterre l 1 ^ fr. Bouffes Parisiens, Passage Choiseul (PL, red 5), adjacent to the Italian Opera, for vaudevilles, comedies, and especially operettas. — Fauteuils d'orchestre 6 fr. (location 8 fr.), balcon du 2me e'tage 4 fr. ; fauteuils des 2mes 4 fr. (location 5 fr.) Theatre du Chateau d'Eau, Rue de Malte 50, for vaude- villes and operettas. Seats for 2000. Fauteuils d'orchestre 2 fr. 50, fauteuils de balcon 2 fr. Theatre des Folies Dramatiques, Rue de Bondy 40, for vaudevilles and farces, good comic acting. — Fauteuils d'or- chestre 4 fr., stalles d'orchestre 2y 2 fr., parterre 1 fr. Theatre Beaumarchais, Boulevart Beaumarchais 55 (PL, white 10), for farces and vaudevilles. — Loges des premieres 2y 2 fr., orchestre 1 fr., 75 c. , parterre 75 c. ; 25 c. extra for each seat engaged beforehand. Theatre des Menus Plaisirs, Boulevart de Strasbourg 14, for vaudevilles and fantaisies. Fauteuils d'orchestre 3 fr., par- terre li/ 4 fr. The'atre de Cluny, Boulevart St. Germain 71, near the Cluny Museum, for Comedies and dramas. Fauteuils d'orchestre 3 fr., parterre 1 fr. Theatres des Gobelins, Avenue des Gobelins 309. Fau- teuils d'orchestre 2 fr., parterre 1 fr. Folies St. Antoine, Boulevart Richard Lenoir 14. Loges-* 3 fr., fauteuils d'orchestre ll/ 4 fr., parterre */ 2 fr. Theatre des Delassements Comiques, Boulevart Voltaire, although a favourite resort of the infamous Raoul Rigault, was not spared by his fellow-Communists. It was set on fire on May 26th, 1871, and entirely burned down. The'atre Se'raphin, Boulevart Montmartre 12, for phai>- tasmagoria and marionette representations. These are the most considerable of the Parisian theatres. The B/epekkr. Paris, 3rd Edition. 3 34 13. CONCERTS AND BALLS. Preliminary others of minor importance (viz. Theatre des Batignolles, de Belle- ville, de Grenelle, Montmartre, Montparnasse, de la Villette, de I'Athenee etc.) are principally situated in the suburbs. The following circuses may also bementioned here: The Cirque d'Ete (formerly de V Imperatrice) in the Champs Ely sees at the Rond-Point (PL, red 3), the Cirque d'Hiver (formerly Napoleon), in the Boulevart des Filles du Calvaire (PL, white 9), and the Hippodrome, to the W. of the Avenue Uhrieh, between the Barriere de 1'Etoile and the Bois de Boulogne (PL, red 1); the latter was set on Are in 1871 and partly burned down. The performances are precisely similar to those of English circuses, but these French establishments are worthy of a visit on account of their tasteful arrangement and vast dimensions. The Hippodrome is the largest and is capable of containing 10,000 persons. ■ — ■ Admission 1 — 2 fr. Conjurers: Robert-Houdin, Boulevart des Italiens 8, per- formances at 8 p. m. (admission l 1 / 2 — 5 fr.). — Robin, Avenue Daumesnil 36 (admission 75 c. — 4 fr.). 13. CONCERTS AND BALLS. Concerts. The concerts of the Conservatoire de Musique. Rue du Faubourg Poissonniere 15, of European celebrity, take place once a fortnight, from January to April. The highest order of classical music (Haydn, Beethoven, Mendelssohn, etc.) is performed with the most exquisite taste and precision. Strangers cannot easily obtain access to them, as almost all the seats are occupied by regular subscribers. Application may, however, be made, on the Friday following a concert, at the office, Rue du Faubourg Poissonniere 15. Balcon and premieres loges 9 fr. ; stalles d'orchestre, loges du rez-de-chaussee, couloirs d'orchestre and du balcon, and secondes loges 6 fr. ; parterre and amphi- theatre 3 fr. ; side-boxes 2 fr. Regular concerts are given at the 'Concert de Paris', Rue du Helder 19, near the Boulevart des Italiens; admission 1 — 2 fr. ; in summer frequently closed. Besides the above, there are a number of other concert- rooms; Herz, Rue de la Victoire48; Ste. Cecile, Rue de la Chaus- see d'Antin; Erard. Rue du Mail 13; Pleyel, Rue Rochechouart 22; Sax, Rue St. Georges 50. — Lent is the principal season for concerts in Paris. The concerts of the Cafes CUantants are generally of a very inferior description. Those in the Champs Elyse'es (p. 88) attract numerous visitors in summer. The Cafe des Aveugles in the Palais Royal also belongs to this class. The following are among the best of these establishments: Eldorado, Boulevart de Stras- bourg^ near the Boulevart St. Denis, handsomely decorated hall ; vocal performances daily 7 to 11 p. m., Alcazar, Rue du Fau- Information. U. DRIVE THROUGH PARIS. 35 bourg Poissonniere 10. Cafe - Concert Bataclan, or Palais Chi- nois, Boulevart Voltaire 50. Grand Concert Parisien, Faubourg St. Denis 3(5. Balls. The public '■Soirees Musicales et Dansantes , although the society is by no means always of the most select description, deserve to be visited by the stranger on account of the gay, brilliant, and novel spectacle they present. The following estab- lishments are perhaps the most frequented. In summer: Jardin Mabille, near the Rond-Point des Champs Elysees, in the Allee des Veuves (Avenue Montaigne 87; PL, red 3) (employed as the Prussian headquarters during the occupation in Feb. 1871). Balls on Wednesd., Thursd., Sat., and Sund. ; admission on Sund. and Thursd. 3, on Wednesd. and Sat. 5 fr. — Closerie des Lilas (Jardin Bullier), Carrefour de TObservatoire, near the Luxem- bourg. — The Chateau Rouge, Rue Clignancourt 44, Montmartre, is well known as the spot where the Generals Leconite and Thomas were shot by the Communists, March 18th, 1871. — In winter: Salle Valentino, Rue St. Honore 251. — The Chalet des lies in the Bois de Boulogne (p. 97), and the Casino d'As- nieres (p. 181) are also favourite resorts in summer. The Masked Balls of the Grand Opera, which last from the middle of December till Lent, and take place every Satur- day evening, may be regarded as another characteristic phase of Parisian life (admission 10 fr.). They present a scene of the most unbridled and boisterous merriment and excitement, and where ladies are of the party should be witnessed by strangers from the boxes only. The female frequenters of these balls always wear masks or dominoes, the men are generally in evening costume. 14. DRIVE THROUGH PARIS. Nothing will serve to convey to the stranger so good an idea of the general aspect and topography of the French metropolis as a drive on the top of an omnibus or in an open carriage through the principal streets. The vehicle should of course in this case be engaged a Vheure, and the driver desired to convey the vis- itor through the town by the following route. The Palais Royal is selected as the most convenient starting- point. Thence through the Rue de Rivoli to the Place de la Concorde (p. 85), the Champs Elysees (p. 89), Palais de l'ln- dustrie (p. 90), Arc de l'Etoile (p. 92); down to the Pont d'lena, Champ de Mars; Hotel des Invalides (p. 167), Boulevart des Inva- lides , Boulevart du Mont Parnasse , at the extremity of which, to the r., is situated the Observatoire (p. 147); thence to the 1., to the Boulevart St. Michel, passing Ney's monument, the Jardin du Luxembourg (p. 147), the Panthe'on (p. 151), the extremity to the Rue Sou if lot and the Palais de Justice (p. 103), near 3* 36 14. DRIVE THROUGH PARIS. which the two bridges are crossed; then to the r. through the Rue de Rivoli, passing the Tour St. Jacques (p. 102) and the Hotel de Ville (p. 99); through the Rue St. Antoine to the Place de la Bastille and the July Column then along the old Boule- varts (see p. 37) to the Madeleine. The drive will occupy about 3 hrs. and (according as the vehicle is hired at 2 fr. or 2 l /g fr. per hour) cost 7 — 8 fr., in- cluding 1 fr. gratuity. It may, however, be reduced to 2^2 nrs -? if the carriage be quitted at the Colonne de Juillet. The old Boulevarts, which would thus be omitted, may be sufficiently in- spected in the course of subsequent walks. In this case the stranger may proceed to the cemetery of Phre Lachaise, a walk through the principal parts of which occupies at least 2 hrs. From Menilmontant, at the corner of the Boulevarts Exterieurs, near Pere Lachaise, an omnibus starts every quarter of an hour for the Boulevart de Filles du Calvaire (a drive of 10 min.), whence (correspondance , p. 27 ) omnibuses run every 5 min., along the entire length of the Boulevarts, to the Madeleine (in 25 min.). After this preliminary voyage of discovery, the stranger may proceed at his leisure to explore the metropolis in detail. RIGHT BANK OF THE SEINE. 1. Les Grands Boulevarts. Colonne de Juillel, Place Rot/ale, Imprimerie Naiionale, Porte St. Martin, Porte SI. Denis, Bourse, Vendome Monument, Chapelle Expiatoire. In the year 1670, during the reign of Louis XIV., the forti- fications (^boulevards , or according to the more modern spelling boulevarts = bulwarks) which then surrounded Paris were taken down and the ditches filled up f . This gave rise to a street, the northern portion of which, on the right bank of the Seine, displays a richness of architecture and an array of attractive shop-windows, which are surpassed in no other city in the world. There are a number of other boulevarts in Paris, many of which have sprung up in consequence of the gigantic and still incomplete street -improvements (Boulevarts de Strasbourg, de Sebastopol, St. Michel, Victor Hugo, de Magenta, Voltaire, de I'Hopital, St. Marcel, St. Jacques, d'Enfer, du Montparnasse, des Invalides, etc.), but 'the Boulevarts', or rather 'les grands Boule- varts', is a term usually applied exclusively to the line (3 M.) of broad streets leading from the Bastille to the Madeleine and subdivided as follows : Boulevart Beaumarchais (10 min. walk), Boulevart des Filles du Calvaire (3 min.), Boulevart du Temple (8 min.), Boulevart St. Martin (8 min.), Boulevart St. Denis (3 min.), Boulevart Bonne Nouvelle (6 min.), Boulevart Pois- sonniere (6 min.), Boulevart Montmartre (4 min.), Boulevart des Italiens (8 min.), Boulevart des Capucines (6 min.), Boulevart de la Madeleine (4 min.) With the bright and cheerful animation and admirable ar- rangement of these Boulevarts no line of streets in the English, or indeed any other metropolis, can vie. i A century later Calonne, minister of Louis XVI. , caused Paris and its suburbs to be enclosed by a wall, termed Boulevarts exterieurs, in or- der to enable the government to levy a tax on all provisions introduced into the town. This gave rise to the witticism : Le mur murant Paris rend Paris murmur ant, which remains true to this day. Since January 1st, 1860, the precincts of the city have been further extended, and now comprise 20 (instead of 12) Arrondissements , into which have been incorporated the parishes of Auteuil, Passy, Batignolles, Montmartre, La Chapelle, La Vil- lette, Belleville, Charonne, Percy, Vaugirard, and Grenelle. 38 1. BOULEVARTS. The Boulevarts were formerly paved, and the stones have at different periods been employed in the construction of barricades. Since 1850 they have been macadamised, or covered with asphalt, and furnished with an asphalt pavement for foot-passengers. The trees , to which the gas is highly prejudicial , are a source of constant trouble to the city authorities. When dead they are replaced by full-grown substitutes, transplanted at great expense from a more healthy atmosphere. The small glass cabinets ( l kiosques'J in which newspapers are sold, the ' Vespasiennes with their advertisements , and the establishments where Seltzer water and other beverages are supplied to the thirsty wayfarer, known by the German designation of (, Trinkhalle\ are all of comparatively recent origin. The chairs (chaises 10, fauteuils 20 o.), which may be hired on the most frequented parts of the boule- varts, and other public resorts belong to a company, and are often in great request. In order to inspect the Boulevarts in detail, the stranger is strongly recommended to walk along the N. side from the Bastille to the Madeleine, and to return on the S. side.. The quietest and most favourable time is the forenoon. When the traffic reaches its climax, between 2 and 5 p. in., the top of an omnibus is perhaps the best point of observation. An evening walk through the boulevarts should also on no account be omitted; nothing can then exceed the brilliancy and animation of the scene. — The number of vehicles, from the elegant private equi- page to the ponderous waggon, which daily traverse the boule- varts, is upwards of 24,000. The shops, as well as many of the cafes of the Boulevart des Italiens and those adjoining it far surpass those of the Palais Royal in brilliancy and magnificence. Cafe's in the Boulevarts, see p. 16; reading-rooms, p. 18 j theatres, p. 31 ; shops and bazaars, p. 19. A very frequent summer attendant on the Boulevarts is the vendor of coco (liquorice water and lemon-juice), with his quiver- like zinc vessels, shining mugs, and tinkling bell. The Place de la Bastille is selected as the most suitable starting-point for the above-mentioned walk ; as the stranger pro- ceeds from E. to W., the interest of the route gradually increases and the traffic becomes more animated. From the Madeleine he may then proceed by the Place de la Concorde and the Champs Elyse'es to the Arc de i'Etoile , and return thence through the Jardin des Tuileries, past the Palais Royal and the Hotel de Ville, to the July Column. This circuit comprises a large pro- portion of the most striking features in Paris. The Place de la Bastille, or simply La Bastille as it is usually termed, was formerly the site of La Bastille St. Antoine, a castle consisting of five lofty towers connected by walls and surrounded 1. BOULEVARTS. 39 by a deep fosse. This building, which formed the extremity of the ancient fortifications, and commanded the Seine and the populous suburb of St. Antoine, was spared in 1670, when the boulevarts were levelled (p. 37), and was subsequently employed as a state-prison. On the 14th of July, 1789, it was captured and destroyed by the revolutionists; the stones were then chiefly employed in the construction of the Pont de la Concorde. In May, 1871, this was one of the last strongholds of the Commu- nists, by whom every issue of the Place had been formidably barricaded, but it was captured after a desperate struggle by the Versailles troops on the 25th. The Station de Vincennes was seriously injured on this occasion, and several of the neigh- bouring houses were entirely destroyed. The Boulevart Richard Lenoir, constructed above the covered Canal St. Martin, which is connected with the Bassin da Canal St. Martin on the S. side of the Place, and thus with the Seine also, was once destined by Napoleon I. to be the site of a colossal elephant fountain, 76 ft. in height, to be erected in commemoration of the revolution. After the revolution of 1830, however, the plan was abandoned; the spot was employed as a burial-place for the 'July champions', and the present Colonne de Juillet erected over their remains. The monument, which is of iron, 164 ft. in height, is surmounted by a figure emblematical of Liberty, bearing a torch in one hand and a broken chain in the other. It was pierced by a number of bullet holes, and the pedestal much damaged in the above- mentioned conflict between the government troops and the insur- gents. In February 1848, the 'February champions' were here interred beside their comrades of 1830, and in May 1871 the vaults were again opened for the reception of a number of the victims of the Communist reign of terror. These vaults and boats on the canal beneath were filled with gunpowder and com- bustibles by the Communists with the view of blowing up the column and converting the entire neighbourhood into a heap of ruins. The combustibles were set on fire by them after their defeat, but the powder had already been removed and employed in the defence of the Place de la Bastille , and the fire therefore occasioned no serious damage. The summit of the monument commands a fine view, especially of the cemetery of Pere Lachaise ; the ascent is, however, less recommended than that of the Tour St. Jacques (p. 102), and should not be attempted by persons inclined to dizziness, on account of the swaying motion which is sometimes felt, especially in windy weather. Custodian's fee 20 c. The strongest barricade of the insurgents in June, 1848, which could not be captured without the aid of heavy artillery, was in the neighbouring Rue du Faubourg St. Antoine diverging to the r. (E.). On the 25th of June, the third day of the 40 1. BOU LEV ARTS. contest, Archbishop Affre (p. 115) was killed here by an insur- gent's ball, whilst exhorting the people to peace. Before commencing his walk along the animated Boulevarts, the stranger may, by way of contrast, visit the Place des Vosges (formerly Place Roy ale) to reach which he turns to the V. into the Rue St. Antoine, and takes the third street (Rue de Birague) to the r. Passing under an arch, he enters a large square planted with limes and chestnuts, two sides of which are adorned with fountains. In the centre stands the equestrian marble Statue of Louis XIII., executed by Dupaty and Cortot, and erected in 1829 to replace the statue of the same king erected by Richelieu in 1639, which had been destroyed in 1792. The square itself occupies the site of the court of the former Palais des Tournelles , where in 1565 a tournament, which cost Henry II. his life (p. 102), took place. Catherine de Medicis caused the palace to be taken down, and the houses (not completed till the reign of Henry IV.), which now occupy its site, to be erected. They are built uniformly of red brick,, with lofty roofs, and have a series of arcades in front. Richelieu once occupied No. 21, Victor Hugo No. 9 at the S.E. corner, and Mademoiselle Rachel the house opposite until her death in 1858. The present inhabi- tants of this gloomy, old-fashioned square, as well as of the ad- joining streets (Quartier du Marais) , are chiefly retired officers and persons of limited income. For a short time after the re- volution of 1792, and again in 1848 , the square was named Place des Vosges, in honour of the department of that name, which had been the first to send contributions in support of the po- pular cause, and that appellation was again revived in 1870. To the N.W. of this, if the Rue des Francs Bourgeois be fol- lowed , the Imprimerie Nationale , the extensive and interesting printing establishment of the government, is reached. Admission on Thursdays at 2 precisely, as all visitors are conducted over the premises in one party (1 fr.). Returning to the Place de la Bastille and entering the Boule- varts, the stranger first traverses the Boulevart Beaumar- chais. The S. side consists of handsome and tastefully built houses, completed since 1848, the N. side principally of small shops. This boulevart and that of the Filles du Calvaire, are chiefly frequented by the denizens of the Faubourg St. An- toine with their blue or white blouses and printed cotton jackets. In fine weather the decayed gentleman and retired officer of the Quartier du Marais, recognisable by the old-fashioned appearence of their costume, occasionally emerge to sun themselves. No. 25 is the Theatre Beaumarchais, the great resort of the inhabitants of the neighbouring Faubourg. To the r., farther on, is the Cirque d'Hiver (p. 34), the entrance to which is adorned with two eque- strian figures. L BOTJLEVVRTS. 41 The Boulevart du Temple is sometimes termed the Boulevart du Crime, owing, it is said, to the number of melo- dramatic and other theatres which were formerly crowded together on the N. side, the last of which, however, have recently been demolished to make way for the new Boulevart Voltaire (formerly du Prince Eugene, see below). To the above appellation the crime of Fieschi may possibly have in some degree contributed. No. 42 occupies the site of the house", whence on July 28th, 1835, he discharged his in- fernal machine at Louis Philippe , which occasioned the death of Marshal Mortier and several others. Exactly opposite, on the S. side, is situated the Jardin Turc, and near it the restaurant Bonvalet, both frequented by the re- spectable denizens of the Quartier du Marais (see above). The Cadran Bleu , exactly opposite the Restaurant Bonvalet, w T as formerly one of the most celebrated restaurants in Paris. On the same side toy and fancy shops predominate. The traveller now reaches the Place du Chateau d'Eau (so called from the unfinished fountain in the centre), on the r. side of which two extensive buildings are situated. The first of these, with hops son the ground floor, belongs to the Credit Fonder, and contains a permanent industrial exhibition. The second is the large Caserne early as possible, as the different collections, and especially the picture-galleries, are often crowded in the afternoon. A walk through the numerous apartments, without stopping, occupies nearly 3 his. The fact that upwards of 100,000 fr. is annually paid for the care of sticks and umbrellas will convey some idea of the vast influx of visitors. The annexed plan shows the position of the various cham- bers and their contents; the openings in the lines denote en- trances. Sticks and umbrellas must be given into custody at the doors; charge 10 c. each. Most of the collections on the ground floor have separate entrances (see below) ; the Galerie des Marbres Antiques, however, is reached from the principal entrance in the Pavilion Denon, leading to the first floor (see p. 60). Ground Floor. Some of the most interesting objects in the collections on the ground-floor are here enumerated: The ^Assyrian Antiquities (Musee Assyrien) (separate entrance in the passage between the Cour du Louvre and Place du Louvre, on the r. when approached from the latter) are the result of excavations made (1843 — 45) in the vicinity of Nineveh, under the superintendence of M. Botta, French consul in Syria. The winged bulls with human heads and the reliefs on the walls are similar to those preserved in the British Museum. Frag- ments of a vast palace , perhaps upwards of 4000 years old, are especially remarkable. The winged bulls, which formed the en- trance to the palace, are monoliths. Adjacent are two heroes, each holding a young lion under one arm and a scourge in the other hand, alleged to represent the Assyrian kings Nebuchad- nezzar and Sennacherib. The various specimens of Assyrian hieroglyphics , which are to be seen here , have hitherto defied the research of the antiquary. The following halls contain Antiquities from Asia Minor. By the wall: * Frieze of the temple of Artemis Leucophrys (Diana with the white forehead) at Magnesia near Ephesus. *Vase from Pergamos, presented in 1838 by Sultan Mahmoud. Fragments of other edifices, Greek inscriptions, tomb-reliefs, etc. 3. LOUVRE. 57 From the following Vestibule a stair ascends in a straight direction to the Fayence collection of the Musee Napole'on III. on the first floor, and to the Marine Museum (p. 78); a closed door to the r. leads to a corridor containing casts (Sculptures Moulees) ; to the 1. the visitor enters a Room with Assyrian Antiquities, which, as well as the following, contains a collection of remarkable Phoenician sarcophagi , on which the head of the deceased is represented in elaborate carving. The next room contains reliefs from the palace of Nineveh of a less remote date (7th cent. B. C). The last room is dedicated to Ancient Greek Reliefs and Sculptures. In the centre a trilateral altar with representations of the twelve great gods, on the r. a damaged group of Orestes and Pylades. A * Metope and a fragment of the frieze of the Parthenon at Athens ; Metopse , from the temple of Zeus at Olympia - reliefs , some of them of beautiful workmanship ; in- scriptions • architectural fragments, etc. The adjoining cabinet contains sarcophagi and fragments of buildings from Jerusalem. Th e * Egyptian Museum (separate entrance opposite the Assyrian Museum) on the basement story contains the larger antiquities (the smaller see p. 75), (A.) gods, kings, statues and sphynxes, (B.) bas-reliefs, (C.) shafts of pillars with hiero- glyphics and inscriptions, (D.) sarcophagi, pyramids, votive-tablets. Of these the most interesting are perhaps the following: Close to the entrance. *A. 23, a huge Sphynx of reddish granite, representing king Meneptah , son of Ramses II., who reigned in the 15th cent, before Christ, supposed to be the 'Pharaoh' who oppressed the Israelites. The emblem of royalty is engraved on the chest and right shoulder. *D. 8 and 9, two sarcophagi of grey granite and basalt, with admirably preserved inscriptions and insignia. *D. 38, to the 1. in the centre of the wall: cast of a bas- relief termed the Zodiac of Denderah , brought from the ruins of a temple of Isis in the village of Denderah in Upper Egypt. The female figures at the corners represent the four cardinal points. The original is in the library. D. 29, a royal monolith chapel, of reddish granite, 9 ! / 2 ft- high and 4^2 ft- in breadth, raised from the bottom of the harbour of Alexandria in 1825, dating from B.C. 580. A. 12, adjacent to the latter, a small group in reddish granite representing king Ramses II., adorned with the Pschent, a peculiar head-dress; on either side are the gods Osiris and Horus. Figures of the goddess Pacht with the lion's head occur frequently. From the 2nd Room, containing Smaller Egyptian Monuments, a staircase leads to the first floor. Before ascending, however, the stranger is recommended to complete his inspection of the collections of the basement story. 58 3. LOUVRE. A long corridor diverging from the same room contains the Algerian Museum (frequently closed) , still incomplete, consisting of antiquities found in Algiers, inscriptions, busts, statues, and architectural fragments of the Roman imperial period. A mosaic representing Neptune and Amphitrite , a fragment of a mosaic from Carthage representing a man on horseback, and a few Arabian inscriptions at the extremity of the passage may also be mentioned. North Side. Rue de Rivoli. a. Salle de M. Colombe. b. de J. de Douai. c. de J. Goujon. d. des Anguier. de Coyzevox. e. f. de Puget. des Coustou. g- h. de Houdon. i. de Chaudet. e Musee de Chalcographie. 1 Musee Assyrien. Jlllll oa ? 5' g g h Jj< Basement Story. Mus Assyr 1 DO Sculptures. mil!! I'liiii XII Sculptures antiques. Cour du Louvre. x I IX I viii |vn I VI Sculptures. i i i i i i Antiques. |m| iv I v Renaissance. I b | c | d 3 s Seine. Pont des Arts. South Side. L Salle des Caryatides. VIII. Salle d" 1 Adonis. II. — du Tibre. IX. — d'Hercule et III. — du Gladiateur. Telephe. IV. — de la Diane. X. — de la Medee. V. — de la Melpomene. XI. — de Pan. VI. — de la Venus Milo. XII. — d'Auguste. VII. — de la Psyche. The Eenaissance Sculptures (entrance from the court), dating from the commencement of the 16th cent. , are arranged in rive sections. Passing through to the last corner apartment on the r., the Salle de Michel Colombe (d. 1514), the visitor should here inspect the * bas-relief of St. George and the Dragon, and *two 3. LOUVRE. 59 recumbent stone figures, from the church of St. Germain l'Auxerrois, of the beginning of the 16th cent. Salle de Jean de Douai , or Jean de Bologne (Giovanni da Bologna, d. 1608): **two prisoners, unfinished marble statues by Michael Angelo, the younger especially of great beauty, both probably destined for the tomb of Julius II. at Rome; a *high relief in bronze, the 'Nymph of Fontainebleau' by Benvenuto Cellini; * Mercury and Psyche, by Adrian de Vries (1593). Salle de Jean Goujon (d. 1572): * Diana with the stag, the celebrated 'Diane Chasseresse', a large group , at the side two dogs, a likeness of Diane de Poitiers , the favourite of Henry II. Salle des Anguier (Francois Anguier d. 1699, Michel Anguier d. 1686): pyramidal monument to the Due Henri de Longueville (d. 1663) , who after the death of Bernard of Weimar in the 30 Years' War succeeded him in the command of his army. By Francheville (1548), a large group in bronze, representing the four nations conquered by Henry IV. , which formerly stood on the Pont Neuf beside the equestrian statue of that monarch. A few fragments of the latter are all that now remain. In the small room to the 1. (at present closed), at the en- trance , a cast of the celebrated carved wood chimney-piece in the council - chamber of the Palais de Justice at Bruges , with statues of (in the centre) Charles V., (to the 1.) Mary of Burgundy and Maximilian I. of Austria, (to the r.) Charles the Bold and Margaret of York. Also the tombstones of Charles the Bold (d. 147?) and Mary of burgundy (d. 1482), casts from the ori- ginals at Bruges. The Modern Sculptures (entrance from the court, to the r. in the corner when approached from the Rue de Rivoli) are contained in five different halls to the 1. Salle de Coyzevox (1640 — 1720): Busts of Richelieu and Bossuet; tombstone of Cardinal Mazarin, originally in the chapel of the College des Quatre Nations , which is now occupied by the Institut de France (p. 160). Salle de Paget (1620 — 1694): Milo , the athlete of Crotona. torn to pieces by a lion, a celebrated group in marble (p. 74); Perseus releasing Andromeda; Alexander and Diogenes, in high relief; Caryatides, casts from those of the Hotel de Ville at Toulon. Salle des Coustou (Nicolas 1658 — 1733, his brother Guillaume 1678 — 1746): Louis XV. and his queen Maria Lesczinska. Gany- mede with the eagle, by Julien (1731 — 1804); Cupid cutting his bow from the club of Hercules, by Bouchardon (1698 — 1762). Salle de Houdon: Diana, resting on one foot, a bronze statue by Houdon (d. 1828); Ganymede with the eagle, by Julien; Cupid and Psyche, by Delaistre; busts. Salle de Chaudet (d. 1810): * Cupid and Psyche, Canova (d. 1822); Narcissus, Caldelari; Nisus and Euryalus, Roman GO 3. LOUVRE. (d. 1835); Biblis metamorphosed into a fountain, Dupaty (d. 1825): colossal bust of Napoleon I. in bronze, Bartolini; a young Nea- politan tortoise-catcher, Rude (d. 1854); Cupid with the butterfly, and the shepherd Phorbas carrying the young (Edipus, Chaudet ; * Cupid and Psyche, Canova; the nymph Salmacis, Bosio (d. 1843): Zephyr and Psyche, Rutschiel (d. 1837); son of Niobe struck by an arrow, Pradier (d. 1852). The Collection of Engravings ( Musee de Chalcographie) is situated on the ground-floor of the adjacent wing. Entrance to the 1. at the egress of the museum of modern sculpture. It is at present accessible for purposes of study only. The P.rincip at Entrance to the other collections of the Louvre is in the Pavilion Denon, the central pavilion of the S. wing of the new Louvre, i. e. to the r. in the Place Napo- le'on III. when approached, from the Tuileries, opposite to the grounds, and to the 1. as the visitor quits the passage connecting the Cour du Louvre with the same Place. (On Sundays and holidays the entrance is to the 1., i. e. on the S. side, in the passage above mentioned. The visitor ascends the stair, passes to the r. through the La Caze saloon described at p. 74, and reaches the picture-gallery; or to the 1. to the collection of drawings etc. ; comp. p. 76.) The Entrance Vestibule contains a copy in bronze of the ancient Victoria in Brescia. The visitor turns to the L, tra- verses a long Halt containing ancient marble busts, ascends a few steps, and thus reaches the Grand Staircase (PI. A). The stair in a straight direction ascends to the picture-gallery (p. 64),; a few steps to the r. and 1. descend to the collection of * Ancient Sculpture (Musee des Marbres Antiques). The visitor first enters a Hall with architectural fragments, Greek and Roman reliefs, sarcophagi, etc. The Rotunda which follows, with gilded ceiling decorated with a painting by Mauzaisse, contains busts of Roman emperors, two statues of captive barbarian chiefs , two vases, and in the centre a beautiful marble font. To the r. of this room is a suite of Saloons (Salles des Saisons), richly decorated with gilding, painting , and reliefs in bronze , chiefly containing statues and busts of the Roman empire. Each work is furnished with the name assigned to it by the French savants; several of them, such as Caracalla, Septimius Severus, Commodus, and Trajan, are in duplicate, and the different copies are placed side by side for the sake of comparison. The eight granite columns which separate the third room from the fourth are from the cathedral of Aix-la-Chapelle. — The last room, the Salle d'Auguste, with 3. LOUVRE. 61 ceiling painted by Matout, coi. tains a series of busts and statues of Caesar, Augustus, Tiberius, Caligula, Nero, etc. The visitor returns hence to the rotunda, and traverses a long wooden passage through an unfinished room. In a straight direction in the background the Venus of Milo will be perceived (p. 63). At the end of the passage a door to the 1., opposite No. 334. Pedagogue, with the youngest son of the Niobe group, leads to the Salle des Caryatides, the hall in which Henry IV. celebrated his nuptials with Margaret of Valois , ai d in which after his assassination his body was placed. Here in 1593 the Ligue held its sessions , and here in the following year the Duke of Guise caused four of its most zealous members to be hanged. Sub- sequently (1659) this hall was employed by Molicre as a theatre, in the performances of which he himself played a prominent part. The Caryatides which support the gallery at the N. end, and whence the hall derives its appellation, are by Jean Goujon, who, being a Huguenot, was shot here while at work on the Night of St. Bartholomew. Over the gallery is a duplicate of the nymph of Fontainebleau , by Ben. Cellini (p. 59). To the r. of the Caryatides: 86. Marsyas suspended from a tree, awaiting the execution of Apollo's sentence that he shonld be flayed alive; 148. Stooping Venus; 684. Colossal statue of Alexander; 686. Nymph with conch; 31. Colossal figure; 76. iEsculapius ; *694. Boy with goose; 147. Stooping Venus; *250. Silenus and Bacchus; 559. Young Hercules. By the Caryatides, to the 1. : 756. Lion from Plataea. The finest works are in the centre : 184. *Germanicus as Mercury, sometimes termed k the Orator'; 235. *The Borghese Vase, of Pentelic marble, with Baccha- nalian relief; 183. Jason, formerly supposed to be Cincinnatus. In the room separated by columns: 299. Centaur overcome by the young Bacchus (4 ft. 6 in.); 1. Lion from Plataea; Hercules with the Apples of the Hesperides; r. Recumbent Hermaphro- dite; 1. 702. Athlete; 704. Discus thrower. The visitor now retraces his steps to the above mentioned Pedagogue from the Niobe group, and passing it, turns to the r. into the Salle du Tibre. *449. The Tiber as a river-god, recumbent, at the side Romulus, Remus, and the she-wolf, a large group in marble. In the centre: * 144. Achilles; 1. Recumbent Fountain- nymph; 454. Antinous as Hercules. Salle du Gladiateur. **262. The 'Borghese Gladiator', a celebrated work of the Greek sculptor Agasius; 178. Mercury; 1. 281. * Wounded Amazon; *70. Apollo Sauroctonos (lizard- killer), the young Apollo on the point of transfixing a lizard running up a tree (formerly in the Villa Borghese at Rome); 62 3. LOUVRE. 33. Cupid as Hercules; then, without number, *Venus of Aries, found at Aries in Provence in 1651. Salle de la Diane. In the centre the celebrated ** Diana with the deer which seeks protection from the goddess, admirably preserved, known as '■Diane a la Biche% or 'Diane de Versailles' . where it was formerly placed. Then several draped statues, re- stored as Muses; among them, 1. 299. Praying nymph, erro- neously restored as Euterpe; 1. 391. so-called Polyhymnia; 216. Borghese dog, from the Villa .Borghese at Rome; *114. Pallas (Minerva) with helmet and shield, the drapery admirably executed, found in 1797 at Velletri near Rome, and known as the 'Pallas of Velletri!. Salle de la Melpomene. 386. Melpomene, the Muse of Tra- gedy, the drapery admirable. In front of the statue modern mosaics by Belloni from designs by Gerard ; r. Bust of Alexander the Great. In the adjacent room: The ** 'Venus of Milo', a Venus Victrix, found in 1820 in the island of Melos or Milo, the gem of the whole collection, a perfect master-piece of the best period of Greek art. The two adjacent statues of Venus of a late Roman period may be contrasted with it. North Side. Place Napoleon III. Pavilion Denon. Peinture P7 ■ francaise jus- , q£a Louis XIV. j| Cour Caulaincourt. Salle des Etats. W ) | Peint. francaise □ depuis Louis XV jusqu -1 a present. Cour Visconti. I I i Grande Galerie. Peinture. Peint. Neerlandais. | Allem. j Espagnols. | Italiens lllllilll Illllill! lllllilll ^Vesti^l X 0> Salon carre. Q,uai des Tuileries. South Side. Salle de la Psyche. 265. and 266. Dancing Fauns; 1. 371. Psyche tormented; 1. Euripides, with a list of his dramas; 395. Young Athlete rubbing himself with oil. 3. LOUVRE. 63 North Side. Rue de Rivoli. 7 8 9 JiO Ilji2|l3jl4 1 1 2 3 | 4 stell. 1 i Bronzes antiques. Hllllli P 0> II I 1 i 1 I I I M I I I M I 1 Premier Etage. Peintures, dessins et antiquites. Cour du Louvre. Salle des grecq 7 Cheminees. Ecole franca is e. I I I I Antiquites ues et romaines I I r . i A i Antiquites egyptiennes. I I I Iflflllll n o a Salle Napoleon premier. > © (-5 Musee Vases. Terracottas. I 1 I I I —I I I I Napoleon III. Peintures | | ajntiq|ues, nun Quai du Louvre. South Side. Salle d' Adonis. Large Sarcophagus found at Salonica, re- presenting combats of Greeks and Amazons in life-size relief, on the cover the recumbent statues of the married pair for whom it was destined; r. 432. Hercules; r. 441. Daughter of Niobe. Salle d'Hercule et de Telephe. 1. 152. Venus Victrix; 1. 450. Hercules with his son Telephus in his arms, at the side the hind by which the latter was reared; r. 95. Zingarella (gipsy), or Diana (?) , the flesh represented in bronze. Salle de la Medee. I. 251. Drunken Silenus; Sarcophagus with reliefs representing the revenge of Medea; r. 370 Cupid and Psyche; r. 238. Sleeping Ariadne; 1. 276. Faun, a bust. 64 3. LOUVRE. Salle de Pan. 1. Pan 5 r. 112. * Minerva 'au collier' (with the pearl-necklace). The visitor now returns hence through the wooden pas- sage, mentioned at p. 61 , and the rotunda, to the stair- case, p. 60. The First Floor of the Louvre contains the following col- lections: in the Grande Galerie or New Louvre, connecting the Old Louvre with the Tuileries, in the S. wing, pictures of the Italian, Spanish, Dutch, and German schools; in the parallel wing facing the Place Napoleon, and in the traverse wing uniting the two, pictures of the French school; in the Old Louvre, drawings, engravings, Greek, Roman, Etruscan, and Egyptian antiquities, the Musee Napoleon III. (or Campana; antique terracottas and inscriptions, mediaeval and renaissance curiosities), and the Musee des Souverains, containing souvenirs of the French kings and of Napoleon I. On the Second Floor in a N. wing is the extensive Musee de la Marine, together with the Musee EthnograpJiique. If the visitor ascends the stair mentioned at p. 60 in a straight direction to the highest landing, on which a few Etrus- can antiquities are at present exhibited, he will have on his 1. the entrance to the saloons described at p. 72, and to his r. the entrance to the **Picture Gallery. Catalogues may be purchased at the en- trance (Italian and Spanish schools 2 fr. , Dutch and German 1 fr. , French 3 fr. , all bound together 7 3 / 4 fr. ) containing copious and interesting information with regard to the pictures and their history, the artists^and their biography, indispensable to those who desire an intimate acquaintance with the gallery. It should be observed that in the official catalogues the artists 1 family names are arranged alphabetically; thus, instead of Ra- phael, Sanzio [or S ant i~)] instead of Titian, Vecellio. The Italian and Spanish pictures are provided with red numbers, the Dutch and German with blue, and the French with black. In order to obtain permission to copy in the Louvre or Luxembourg, a written application must be addressed to the Ministre des Beaux Arts. The following enumeration will suffice for the visitor whose time is limited, and enable him to form some acquaintance with the most celebrated works in the gallery. A longer list would be beyond the scope of the present volume. The finest pictures are generally so surrounded with artists and their easels, that the visitor sometimes finds it difficult to approach them. On Sun- days the gallery is usually over-crowded. The entire gallery is nearly 3 / 4 M. in length. Several rooms are traversed in which part of the Muse'e 3. LOUVRE. 65 Napoleon III. (p. 74), Etruscan vases and cinerary urns, etc. are temporarily placed. Then a Saloon containing seven fine frescoes of Bernardino Luini , transferred to canvas, the finest of which are the Adoration of the Magi and the Nativity. The **Grand Salon Carre, or principal saloon, adjoining the last-named, contains the choicest gems of the entire gallery. The light is, however, unfortunately somewhat too subdued. Each picture deserves the most careful inspection. In the annexed list the year of the artist's death is appended where his name is mentioned for the first time, but afterwards omitted. — The door on the I. in this saloon, where the enumeration of the pictures begins, leads to the Galerie d'Apollon , mentioned at p. 73. 442. Perugino (d. 1524), Madonna and Child, with St. Rosa and St. Catharine and two angels, purchased from the King of Holland's collection for 53,000 fr. (2120 I.). 447. N. Poussin (d. 1665), Portrait of himself. *465. Titian (Vecellio, d. 1576), Entombment of Christ, pur- chased by Louis XIV. from the celebrated collection of the Co- logne banker Jabach, then resident in Paris. 28. Correggio [Allegri, d. 1534), Sleeping Antiope , watched by Jupiter in the form of a Satyr, formerly erroneously termed a 'sleeping Venus'. 337. Guido Reni (d. 1642), Dejanira carried off by the cen- taur Nessus. 242. Luini (d. about 1530), Salome, daughter of Herodias, with the head of John the Baptist. 138. Annibale Caracci (d. 1609), The Virgin appearing to St. Luke and St. Catharine. 403, Solan, or II Gobbo (d. 1509), Madonna and Child. 94. Bronzino (d. 1572), Portrait of a sculptor. 419. Rembrandt (d. 1669), Portrait of a woman. 239. Fra Sebastiano del Piombo (Sebast. Luciani, d. 1547), Meeting of Mary and Elizabeth. *104. Paolo Veronese (Caliari, d. 1588), The Repast in the house of Simon the Pharisee, 31 ft. long, 14y 2 ft- high. *376. Raphael (Sanzio, d. 1520), Virgin and sleeping Child, with St. John. *471. Titian, Girl at her toilette, behind her a man holding a mirror, known as ^Titien et sa mattresse\ 460. Rubens (d. 1640), Portrait of his second wife with her two sons. **546 (bis). Murillo (d. 1682), Conception of the Virgin, purchased from the collection of Marshal Soult in 1852 for the enormous sum of 615,300 fr. (24,612 £.). The artist evidently borrowed his idea from the passage : 'And there appeared a great wonder in heaven 5 a woman clothed with the sun , and the Baedeker. Paris. 3rd Edition. 5 (56 3. LOUVRE. moon under her feet, aiul upon her head a crown of twelve stars.' Rev. XII. 1. *121. G. Dow (d. about 1674), althasar Castiglione. 173. Conegliano (Cima, d. after 1517), Virgin and saints. 186. Raphael, Portrait. The Galerie des Sept Metres opens into the Grande Galerie close to the entrance to the Salon Carre, comp. p. — . The visitor may therefore, if he please, now proceed through the latter, traverse the Galerie d'Apollon mentioned below, and thus reach the round Vestibule, etc. (see below). The door to the left on the highest landing of the staircase mentioned at p. 60 leads into a circular Vestibule, richly gilded, and adorned with paintings by Blondel, Couder, and Mauzaisse. On the floor a beautiful mosaic. In the 3. LOUVKE. 73 centre a handsome vase. The fine wrought-iron door of the time of Henri II. on the right leads to the Galerie d'Apollon, a saloon about 80 yds. in length, erected by Jean Lepautre under Henri IV., subsequently restored at different periods, and sumptuously redecorated in 1848 — 51. It derives its name from the ceiling-painting by Delacroix, repre- senting 'Apollo's contest with the Python'. The bow-window at the end of the gallery was once supposed to be that from which Charles IX. is said to have fired on the people on the night of St. Bartholomew (comp. p. 54). The panels of the walls are decorated with admirably executed life-size busts of French artists in Gobelins tapestry, executed shortly before the destruction of that far-famed institution. The glass cabinets in the centre of the hall contain specimens of enamel and jewellery, vases, drinking- cups, fayence, etc. The windows afford a pleasant survey of the Seine. The door at the end of the hall opens into the Salon Carre (see p. 65). We now return to the vestibule, and by the other door enter the Salle des Bijoux, where valuable objects (in enamel, jewellery, the precious metals, etc.), chiefly mediaeval and Renaissance, arc exhibited. The Salle des Sept Cheminees, adjoining the last, contains some remarkable works of the Modern French School: r. 240. Gerard (d. 1837), portrait of the artist Isabey. 256. Granet (d. 1852), lower church of S. Francesco at Assisi. *274. Gros (d. 1835), Bonaparte in the plague-hospital at Jaffa. 252. Girodet-Trioson (d. 1824), Atala's Interment, from the work of Chateaubriand. 236. Gerard, Cupid and Psyche. 279, and opposite to it 282. Guerin (d. 1833), Agamemnon and Clytemnestra. 152. David (d. 1825), Belisarius. *242. Gericault (d. 1823), Shipwreck of the Medusa. To the r. and 1. his *243. Hussar, and *244. Cuirassier, purchased from the collection of Louis Philippe in the Palais Royal for 23,400 fr. 159. David, Portrait of Pope Pius VII., painted in 1805. Madame Lebrun, two portraits. *459. Prudhon (d. 1823), Crime pursued by Justice and Divine Vengeance. *275. Gros, Battle of Eylau. 251. Girodet-Trioson, Endymion ; Deluge. *149. David, The Sabine women interpose between the Roman and Sabine combatants; above it, *Leonidas. The first door to the 1. in the Salle des Sept Cheminees (as to the two doors opposite the entrance-wall, see below and p. 74) leads through a room at present empty into a saloon occupied by the 74 3. LOUVRE. Collection La Caze, bequeathed to the Louvre in 1869, com- prising several good works by the French genre-painters Antoine Watteau (1684—1721) and J. B. 8, Chardin (1699—1779). The pictures are all furnished with the names of the artists. To the r. of the entrance : 32. Spagnoletto, Beggar-boy. Then several by Jan Steen, Adrian Ostade, and David Teniers. 96. Rembrandt, Woman bathing; 98. Rembrandt, Portrait. Several by Wouver- man, Watteau, Chardin, etc. — Then recommencing at the same end, on the 1. : 18. Tintoretto, Portrait; *14. Bassano, Adoration of the Magi, etc. Opposite the entrance a portrait of La Caze by himself (d. 1869). — The door of the La Caze saloon opens on to the staircase mentioned at p. 76, and the corridor, which leads to the bronzes of the Muse'e Napoleon III., and to the drawings etc. (comp. p. 76). We now return to the Salle des Sept Chemine'es, and passing through the door situated diagonally opposite, in the corner to the r., enter the saloons of the Musee Napoleon III., an admirable collection of Etruscan and Greek vases, Greek and Phoenician inscriptions, busts, tombstones, idols, bronzes, statuettes, antiquities, etc., some of them from the Campana collection, others brought from Syria by E. Re nan, from Macedonia and Thessaly by Henzey, and from Asia Minor by Perrault. Paintings on the ceiling: 1st Room. Alaux, Nic. Poussin being introduced to Louis XIII. (Phoenician inscriptions; statues, sta- tuettes, busts, and inscriptions from Cyprus ; vases, phials, and terracottas from Rhodes; in the cabinets by the window amulets and ornaments from different districts of Syria, Moabitish pottery, etc. — 2nd Room. Steuben, Francis I. at the battle of Marignano. (Red vases for domestic purposes, amphorae, etc.) — 3rd Room. Eay. Deveria, Louis XIV. at Versailles inspecting Puget's marble group of Milo of Crotona (p. 59). (Etruscan vases, commencing with those of the rudest form.) — ■ 4th Room. Fragonard, Andrea del Sarto showing his picture of 'Caritas' to Francis I. (Etruscan terracottas, reliefs, cinerary urns, etc.) — 5th Room. Heim, Revival of the arts in France, with eight small lateral pictures. (Vases of the most ancient style.) — 6th Room. Fragonard, Francis L knighted by Bayard. (Ancient vases.) — 7th Room. Schnetz, Charlemagne and Alcuin, founder of the university of Paris. (Vases of more modern style.) — 8th Room. Drolling, Louis XII. saluted as father of his people by the states-general at Tours. (Small vessels in clay, drinking-cups, etc.) — 9th Room. *Leon Cogniet, Bonaparte in Egypt. (Objects in glass; also a collection of ^frescoes from houses of Pompeii, presented in 1825 by Francis I. of Naples.) The visitor should now retrace his steps to the Salle des Sept Cheminees and %y a door to the 1. enter the Musee de 3. LOUVRE. 75 Charles X., which contains a valuable collection of smaller Greek, Etruscan, Roman, and Egyptian ^Antiquities ; the paintings on the ceilings date from 1827, and are as follows : 1st Room. Inures, ^Apotheosis of Homer. — Collection of vases of glass and enamel. 2nd Room. Helm, Jupiter entrusts Vulcan with the fire for the destruction of Herculaneum and Pompeii. — Vases on the table well deserving inspection, found in S. Italy. 3rd Room. Meynier, Nymphs of Parthenope (Naples) emigrat- ing to the Seine. — Collection of beautiful Greek terracottas, statuettes, urns, etc. 4th Room. Picot, Cybele protecting Herculaneum from total destruction. — Etruscan vases in the glass cases. 5th Room (passage-room, the so-called throne-room). Gros, Allegorical painting in honour of Louis XIV. — This and the four following rooms contain Egyptian Antiquities. 6th Room. Picot, P'rance unveils Egypt. — Egyptian Anti- quities : carved stones with hieroglyphics (scarabaii), amulets, figures of animals, idols, Isis and Osiris, figures in brass and clay. 7th Room. Abel ale Pujol, Egypt seeking Joseph's protection from the seven plagues. ■ — Collection of mummies, scarabaii, hieroglyphics on parchment and linen, etc. Bust of the celebrated archaeologist Champollion. 8th Room. * Horace Vernet, Raphael and Michael Angelo in the presence of Pope Julius II. — Collection of Egyptian im- plements, weapons, manufactures, ornaments, and carving. 9th Room : Gros, 'Le genie cle la France anime l'art et secoure rhumanite". — Collection of mummies, inscriptions, bronze uten- sils, weapons, scarabaei. In the centre of the large Staircase Hall which is now entered, sarcophagi and statues; among the latter Rameses II. in a sitting posture. In the recess a colossal black statue of Isis. Turning to the 1. the visitor now enters the Musee des Sou- verains. The first two rooms, with richly gilded ceilings, con- tain Sevres vases and a silver statue of Henry IV. when a boy, the third contains a complete model of a chapel of Henry HI. (1578); in the fourth, armour of French monarchs ; the chair of king Bagobert; the reputed crown of Charlemagne ( L dite de Charlemagne , for it is a known fact that the genuine crown is at Vienna), worn by Napoleon at his coronation ; reminiscences of French kings ; prayer-books (one of Charles the Bald, richly ornamented with carved ivory and precious stones) ; weapons, the font of 'St. Louis'; costumes of various orders; the helmet and shield of Charles IX., richly plated with gold ; the sceptre, 'main de justice', sword, and spurs of Charlemagne ; a valuable cabinet of Marie Antoinette ; candelabra of polished stones, presented to Marie de Medicis by the republic of Venice ; *jewel casket of 76 3. LOUVRE. queen Anna; writing-table of Louis XVI1L employed by him when a prisoner; coronation robes of Charles X.; secretaire of Louis Philippe , bearing traces of having been broken open (February, 1848). The fifth room is a spacious apartment , exclusively devoted to * Souvenirs of Napoleon J. It contains the emperor's camp bed, his grey coat and the three-cornered hat, the round hat he wore in St. Helena, his state and coronation robes, richly decorated saddles, etc. ; also the cradle of the king of Rome, 'ayant depuis servi au Due de Bordeaux'. This room generally attracts numerous visitors, especially on Sundays. The Picture Gallery of the M-usee Napoleon III. , containing a number of Byzantine pictures and a few old Italian works, is at present closed. Leaving the La Caze collection (p. 74), the visitor traverses a stair-case passage (the stair, generally closed to the public, descends to the passage under the Pavilion Sully, between the Cour du Louvre and the Place Napoleon III.; comp. p. 60), and reaches a Corridor adorned with bronze copies of celebrated antiques. To the 1. of this is the Saloon of the Bronzes (see below); in a straight direction the corridor leads to the collection of drawings etc. — A handsome wrought-iron door forms the entrance to the Saloon of the Bronzes, of the Musee Napoleon III., consisting of a valuable collection of ancient implements, weapons, statuettes, etc. In the centre-cabinet are preserved ornaments in gold and silver, mirrors, buckles, keys, seals, bracelets ; also a gilded helmet found at Amfreville in the Departement Eure, in 1861. By the window a gilded bronze statue of Apollo, over life-size; 1. antique Apollo; then seats, candelabra, busts, and statuettes. In the cabinet on the r. several toilet caskets with engraving, found at Palestrina near Rome, vases, lamps, etc. In the cabinets by the wall are statuettes; L. beautiful selection of * Roman weapons, helmets, shields, swords, lances, etc. At the entrance to the collection of drawings are placed the tools Avith which the foundation-stone of the New Louvre was laid, July 25th, 1852. They were presented by the architect Visconti, who died before the completion of the structure. The Saloons of the Drawings occupy half the N. and W. wings. The collection is extremely valuable, being especially im- portant to the student of art, but to some extent interesting to amateurs also. The plates are all preserved under glass. Ca- talogue in 2 vols., 3 fr. 1st Room. Old Italian masters: Mantegna, Lorenzo di Credi, 3. LOUVRE. 77 etc. — Ceiling-painting by Blondel: France victorious, after the Battle of Bouvines. 2nd Room. Italian. Drawings by the most celebrated masters : Leonardo da Vinci, Michael Angelo, Raphael, Titian, and Andrea del Sarto, some particularly well executed by Leonardo. Ceiling- painting by Blondel: France receiving the 'Charte' from Louis XY III. 3rd Room. Italian. Drawings, two of them in chalks, by Cor- reggio. Ceiling-painting by Drolling: Law descends to earth. 4th Room. Bolognese School. Ceiling-painting by Mauzaisse: Divine Wisdom giving laws to Kings and Lawgivers. 5th Room. Netherlandish and German : Dilrer, Holbein, Ru- bens, Rembrandt, Teniers, etc. On the wall to the 1. , *565. Battle of knights, by Rubens after Leonardo da Vinci. (A door here, open on Sund. and Thursd. only, leads to the 2nd Floor, see p. 78). 6th Room. This is a passage with chalk drawings, chiefly portraits, by Vivien, Mme Gujard, etc. 7th Room. Claude Lorrain, N. Poussin, Lesueur. 8th Room. Lesueur, Drawings of the 'Life of St. Bruno' fp. 70). 9th Room. French School. Charles Lebrun. 10th Room. Modern French School. Antoine Watteau. 11th Room. Modern French School. Here is preserved a large unfinished oil-painting by David (d. 1825), representing the revolutionist meeting at the Jeu de Paume (p. 184). One of the four finished heads is that of Mirabeau. The figures serve to show the care which the master was wont to bestow on ana- tomical proportions. 12th Room. Crayons, miniatures, drawings, Chinese pictures. 13th Room. Drawings of the early French School. 14th Room. Crayons, chiefly portraits, by Perronceau, Char- din, etc. The following room belongs to the Musee Napoleon III., and is the first of those containing the Mediseval and Renaissance Curiosities. 1st Room. On the wall opposite the window: * Altar-piece of the end of the 14th cent. , about 6 ft. in height , a perfect chef d'ceuvre of carving in ivory; in the centre is the history of Christ, on the 1. that of John the Baptist, on the r. that of St. John the Evan- gelist, represented in 71 different reliefs; below are the Apostles. This admirable work was brought from the town of Poissy. The 2nd Room, the Salle Sauvageot, contains a collection of mediseval miniature pictures, carved wood, vases, etc., bequeathed to the Louvre by M. Sauvageot. Between the windows a life-size portrait of Henry II. In the 3rd Room mediaeval Glass and Porcelain. Opposite to the window, on the wall, a Glass Mosaic, representing the lion 78 3. LOUVRE of Venice, executed by Antonio Fasolo in the manufactory of Murano in the 16th cent. The 4th Room is devoted to Metallic and Bronze Articles, such as knives, locks, embossed plates, etc. Two Bronze Reliefs are here especially worthy of note , the originals of which were executed in marble by Pierre Bonternps in 1552 for the tomb- stone of Francis I. in the burial chapel of St. Denis; they are placed on the side walls opposite to each other. On the wall opposite to the window is a beautiful enamel picture from the manufactory of Limoges , representing the various events of the Passion. The 5th Room contains specimens of the Fayence Work of the celebrated Bernard de Palissy (d. 1589), consisting principally of dishes with moulded representations of snakes, frogs, lizards, lishes, plants, etc. The 6th and 7th Rooms contain Italian Fayence and several old pieces of furniture in oak. The visitor next enters a small Vestibule with terracottas (from which the stair ascends to the Marine and Ethnographical Mu- seums, open on Sundays and Thursdays only, sec below), and reaches a stair which descends to the Assyrian Museum (comp. p. 56). The Second Floor of the Louvre contains the Marine and Ethnographical Museums, reached by stairs from the above-named vestibule of the collection of mediaeval and Renaissance objects and from the 5th Room of the drawings (p. 77). They are both accessible on Sundays and Thursdays only, 10 — 4 o'clock ; the Musee Chinois on Thursdays only. The *Musee de la Marine consists of a valuable collection of various objects connected with ship-building, navigation, etc., such as models of vessels and machines , plans and drawings of har- bours and piers, weapons and relics of historical interest. For the non-professional visitor the following objects are perhaps those most deserving of inspection : 1st Room. The French fleet from 1786 to 1824. No. 33. Large plastic representation of the embarkation and transport of the obelisk of Luxor (p. 87); 34. The erection of the obelisk in the Place de la Concorde. On the principal wall an inscription to the memory of the heroic Lieutenant Bellot of the French navy, who perished in 1853 in an Arctic expedition, placed there by English residents in France. 2nd Room. 150. Machine for adjusting the masts of a ship. 3. Relief-plan of the town and harbour of Brest: Models of ships. 3rd Room. Models of pumps and machines; 349. Ship in the stocks about to be launched; 5. Relief-plan of the town and 3. LOUVRE 79 harbour of Lorient; 522. Model of the 'Yalmy', a ship of tlie line of the first class. 4th Room. 621. Large model of a 120 gun ship, occupying the entire apartment. 5th Room. 960. i>ell from the chapel of the citadel of St. Jean d'Ulloa (Mexico), which was pierced by a cannon-ball from a French corvette in 1838; small sailing-vessels, etc. 6th Room. 885 to 958. Large obelisk decorated with relics of the frigates 'Boussole' and 'Astrolabe', which had been sent on a voyage of discovery under the command of Captain de La- perouse in 1788, and foundered at sea. Traces of the ill-fated expedition had been discovered by the English Captain Dillon in the island of Ticopia in 1828, with the aid of an inhabitant who had once been a Prussian sailor, whereupon a French vessel was despatched for the purpose of bringing home the relics. 956. Letter written by Laperouse. Busts of celebrated French navigators and naval heroes ; among them, 780. Bust of Laperouse. — Also the model of a monument erected to the memory of the latter at Port Jackson , with English and French inscriptions. Then six models of ships. 7th Room. 721. Model of the steam vessel of war 'le Veloce'. 8th Room. Rigging and ships' chains. Two relief-plans of Toulon, dating from 1790 and 1850. 9th Room. Fire-arms of various calibres. 10th Room. Scientific instruments, sextants, etc. ; also a very large geographical globe. 11th Room. 640. Model of 'le Louis XV.', a man of war of the middle of the last century. 637. Model of 'La Re'ale', an admiral's ship built at the close of the 17th cent, and artistically adorned by the celebrated sculptor Paget (p. 59). The original carving in gilded wood (No. 760- — '775) hangs on the wall. 4. Relief-plan of the town and harbour of Rochefort.. The Musee Ethnographique , recently founded, occupies the adjacent rooms. 1st Room. Curiosities from Africa, most of them presented by M. Delaporte, consul at Cairo. In the centre models of the entire imperial fleet in the year 1867. 2nd Room. A collection of the spoil captured in various French naval expeditions, consisting principally of curiosities from Japan, China, and Mexico. Model of the pagoda of Juggernaut in India surmounted by the image of Wischnu , the principal deity of the Indians , to whose shrine every Indian is bound to make a pilgrimage at least once in his life. Beyond this are three rooms with curiosities from Cliina, most of them collected during the French expedition of 1860 : porcelain, paintings, boxes, idols, models of Chinese buildings, weapons, etc. 80 4. TUILERIES. American Antiquities. This is the commencement of a col- lection of implements, tools, idols, and ornaments, most of them of stone, from Mexico, Chili, and Peru, resembling in many respects the Egyptian antiquities, and proving that the aborigi- nal inhabitants of America were, on the discovery of America by Columbus (1492) not far behind the Egyptians in civilisation. The collection is temporarily placed in a passage on the second floor near the egress of the Musee Ethnographique. 4. The Tuileries. Are de Triomphe du Carrousel. Palais et Jar din des Tuileries. Between the Louvre and the Tuileries extends, as already mentioned at p. 55, a vast quadrangle l /$ M. in length, formed partly under Napoleon I., and partly under Napoleon III., by the demolition of the narrow and crooked old streets and lanes which once occupied this site. This quadrangle bears two different names. The narrower portion on the E. side, between the wings of the new Louvre , about 400 ft. in width , is termed Place Napoleon III. (a name which probably will be changed) and is adorned with grounds in the centre. The space in front of the Tuileries, the Place du Carrousel, is of double the width, and derives its name from a tournament held here in 1(562 by Louis XIV. Here, in front of the central entrance to the court of the Tuileries which is separated from the Place by an elegant iron railing, rises the *Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, 48 ft. in height, 51 ft. in width, and 28 ft. in thickness, and consisting of three lateral and one transverse arcade. This structure was erected by Na- poleon I. in 1806 in imitation of the triumphal arch of Severus at Rome. Handsome as it undoubtedly is, its proportions do not harmonise with the vast dimensions of the surrounding palaces. The Marble Reliefs on the front of the arch represent the battle of Austerlitz (r.) and the capitulation of the Austrian General Mack at Ulm 5 those in the rear the conclusion of peace at Tilsit (r.) and the entry into Munich; those on the N. side represent the entry into Vienna, S. side the conclusion of the peace at Pressburg. The Marble Statues over the columns represent soldiers of the empire in their respective uniforms ; in front a cuirassier, dragoon, chasseur a cheval, and carabinier; in the rear a grenadier, carabinier, artillery-man, and sapper. The Quadriga, or chariot with four horses, a group in bronze designed by Bosio , by which the arch is surmounted , replaces the celebrated horses of Lysippus which formerly occupied the summit, but were restored by the allies in 1814 to their original position over the portal of St. Mark's at Venice. From the railed -off court in front of the palace a passage 4. TUILERIES. SI leads towards the S., whence on 28th June, 1836, Alibaud fired a pistol at Louis Philippe who was on the quay, on the point of starting for Neuilly. On the N. side the palace-court pos- sesses another entrance, where Feb. 28th, 1848, the royal carriage was waylaid and the attendants murdered by the in- furiated populace. The Palais des Tuileries (ruins, see below, not accessible) was founded in 1564 by Catharine de Medicis, and designed by the' architect Philibert Delorme. It occupies the site of a former brick or tile-yard, whence its appellation. Additions were made to the palace at various periods : it is now upwards of 1000 ft. in length and 112 in width, and its dimensions alone entitle the exterior to inspection. It was not till the year 1856 that the principal facade towards the garden acquired some degree of symmetry. In former times the Tuileries was never employed by the sovereigns of France as a permanent residence. On Feb. 1st, 1800, it became the principal abode of Bonaparte when first con- sul , since which period it has been regarded as the official residence of the reigning monarch. The N. wing, the Pavilion Marsan, was occupied by the Duchess of Orleans during the reign of Louis Philippe. The S. wing is termed the Pavilion de Flore. Between these two is situated the Pavilion de VHorloge. The latter formerly contained the Salle des Marechaux , a hall occupying the entire width of the building and two stories in height, adorned with portraits of eminent French marshals and generals. Adjoining this hall were the Throne-room , the Galerie de Diane , the S. PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. Aix-la-Chapelle (Oct. 18th, 1748), which terminated the Austrian war of succession , Louis XV. 'graciously permitted' the mayor and municipal dignitaries (echevins) to erect a statue to him. The work was at once commenced , but was not completed till 1763, when the equestrian statue in "bronze by Bouchardon was erected in the Place , which then received the appellation of Place de Louis XV. The pedestal was adorned with four figures by Piyalle, emblematical of Strength, Wisdom, Justice, and Peace. Soon after the erection of the statue the following pasquinade appeared on the pedestal: 'Grotesque monument, infame piedestal! Les vertus sont a pied, le vice est a cheval/ A few days later was added the sarcasm: 'II est ici comme a Versailles, 11 est sans cozur et sans entrailles.' A third termed the statue a L statua statuae\ The Place was at that period surrounded by deep ditches (filled up in 1852), and the new buildings on the N. side were in course of construction, when, on May 30th, 1770, during an ex- hibition of fireworks in honour of the nuptials of the Dauphin (afterwards Louis XVI.) and Marie Antoinette, such a panic was occasioned by the accidental discharge of some rockets, that no fewer than 1200 persons were crushed to death or killed by being precipitated into the ditches, and 2000 mare severely in- jured. On August 11th, 1792, the day after the storming of the Bastille , the statue of the king was removed by order of the Convention Hid melted down , the metal being chiefly employed for the coinage of pieces of two sous. A rude clay image of the 'Goddess of Liberty' was then placed on the pedestal, and derisively termed 'La Liberie de boue . The Place itself received the name of Place de la Revolution. On January 21st, 1793, the guillotine (p. 102) here com- menced its bloody work with the execution of Louis XVI. On July 17th Charlotte Corday was beheaded; on October 2nd P>rissot, chief of the Gironde, along with twenty-one of his adherents ; on October 16th the ill-fated queen Marie Antoinette; on November 14th, Louis Philippe, Duke of Orleans , better known as Egalite (father of king Louis Philippe); on May 12th, 1794, the princess Elisabeth Marie Helene , sister of Louis XVI. On March 24th, through the influence of Danton and Robespierre, He'bert, the most determined opponent of all social rule , together with his parti- zans, also terminated his career on the scaffold here; the next victims were the adherents of Marat and the Orleanists ; then on April 8th Danton himself and his party , amongst whom was Camille Desmoulins ; subsequently the atheists Chaumette and Anacharsis Cloots on April 16th, and the wives of Camille Des- 5. PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. 87 inouliris, Hebert, and others. On July 28th, 1794, Robespierre and his associates, his brother, Dumas, St. Just, and other members of the Somite da salut public here met a retributive end, and on the following day 70 members of the Commune, whom Robespierre had employed as his tools; on July 30th twelve other members of the same body. Lasource, one of the Girondists, called out to his judges: L Je meurs dans un moment oil le peuple a perda sa raison ; vous, vous moarrez Le jour oh it la retrouvera' . Of St. Just, Camille Desmoalins had said: 'IL s'estime tant, qu it porte avec respect sa tete sur ses epaules comme un saint-sacrement.' St. Just replied : L Et moi, je lui ferai porter la sienne comme un St. Denis'. ( St. Denis, as is well known, is usually represented as a martyr, bearing his head in his hands.) St. Just kept his word; a few month later he himself fell a victim. From January 21st, 1793, to May 3rd, 1795, more than 2800 persons perished here by the guillotine. When it was after- wards proposed to erect a large fountain on the spot where the scaffold of Louis XVI. had stood, the plan was strenuously and successfully opposed by Chateaubriand, who aptly observed that all the water in the world would not suffice to remove the blood- stains which sullied the Place. In 1799 the square received the name of Place de la Con- corde, in 1814 it was called Place de Louis XV., in 1826 Place de Louis XVI. , as it was intended here to erect an expiatory monument to the memory of that monarch. About 1830 the name of Place de la Concorde was resumed , and it was resolved to adorn the square with some monument which should not bear any allusion whatever to political events. An opportunity of carrying out this resolution was soon afforded by the * Obelisk of Luxor, a gift of Mehemed Ali, Pacha of Egypt, to Louis Philippe. In front of the great temple of ancient Thebes , the Luxor of the present day, stood two beautiful ancient Egyptian obelisks. As a token of gratitude for services rendered, the Pacha offered one of these to the French government. In the summer of 1831 a vessel was accordingly despatched to Egypt for the purpose of conveying home the smaller and more beautiful of these two relics. The task, however, proved of such an arduous nature, (comp. p. 78) that the vessel did not return with its costly freight till August 1833. The erection of the obelisk in its present position was not finally effected till 1836. The expenses entailed by the whole undertaking amounted to two millions of francs, and, as the obelisk is 500,000 lbs. in weight, the sarcastic Pari- sians observe that the stone of which it consists has cost 4 fr. per pound. This obelisk , one of the most beautiful in the world , is 88 5. PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. 76 ft. in height, the pedestal on which it stands 13 ft. and the steps by which it is approached 16 ft., so that the entire height is more than 100 ft. The obelisk itself is a monolith, a block of solid, reddish granite or syenite, and is inscribed with three perpendicular rows of well-defined hieroglyphics on each side. The inscriptions are laudatory of king Rameses III. of Egypt, better known in Europe as Sesostris the Great, who reigned about 1500 years before the Christian era. The obelisk is, therefore, upwards of 3300 years old. On the N. side of the pedestal is represented the apparatus employed in the removal and embarkation of the monument , on the S. side, that employed in its erection in Paris The inscription on the E. side is as follows: Ludovicus Philippus I. , Francorum Bex, ut antiquissimum artis Aegyptiacae opus, idemque recentis gloriae at Nilum armis partae insigne monu- menturn Franciae ab ipsa Aegypto donatum posteritati prorogaret, obeliscum die 25. Aug. A. 1832 Thebis Hecatompylis avectum na- vique ad id constructa intra menses 13 in Galliam perductum eri- gendum curavit. Die 25. Octobris Anni 1836. Anno reg. septimo. (Louis Philippe I., King of the French, in order to hand down to pos- terity one of the most ancient Egyptian works of art, and at the same time a magnificent monument, presented by Egypt herself, of the glory obtained by the arms of France on the banks of the Nile, caused this obelisk to be removed from Thebes with its hundred gates, August 25th, 1832, and within 13 months to be conveyed to France in a ship constructed for the purpose, and to be erected. October 26th, 1836. In the 7th year of his reign.) The inscription on the W. side is as follows: En presence du Boi Louis Philippe l er , cet obelisque, transports de Louqsor en France, a etc dresse sur ce piedestal par M. Le Bas, ingenieur, aux applaudissements d'un peuple immense, Le 25 octobre, 1836. The two magnificent * Fountains (Fontaines de la Place de la Concorde) constitute another striking ornament of the square. Each of them consists of a round basin, 53 ft. in diameter, above which rise two other basins, 21 ft. and 13 ft. in diameter respect- ively. The lower basin is surrounded by Tritons and Nereids, holding dolphins which spout water into the second basin. The fountain to the S. is dedicated to the seas. The figures which support the second basin represent the Pacific Ocean and the Mediterranean ; the genii are emblematical of the four kinds of fishery (the common, the pearl, the coral, and the shell). The fountain to the N. is dedicated to the rivers. The principal figures here represent the Rhine and the Rhone, the genii are personifications of Corn, Wine, Fruit, and Flowers. The figures and the upper basins are of bronzed iron , the lower basins of granite. The fountains are abundantly supplied with water from a large reservoir near the Barriere de Monceau. The eight marble figures on pedestals of the same material which are placed round the Place, represent the most considerable towns of France : Lille and Strasbourg by Pradier, Bordeaux and (i. CHAWS ELYSEES. 89 Nantes by Cathouet, Rouen and Brest by Cortot, and Marseilles and Lyons by Petitot. Along the balustrades which enclose the square are placed twenty lofty rostral columns which serve as candelabra ; the carriage causeways are bordered with forty orna- mental lamp-posts. The Place in its present condition was not completed till 1854, when much was done to beautify and perfect it. It now presents an imposing 'ensemble 1 which is probably without a parallel in the world. On April 10th, 1814, a solemn service was performed here in presence of the emperors Francis and Alexander, and king- Frederick AVilliam III., in memory of Louis XVI., after which a Te Deum was sung as a thanksgiving for their victory. Prussian and Russian troops were on that occasion bivouacked in the Champs Elysees, and one year later English soldiers. In March , 1871 , Prussian troops again bivouacked in the Champs Elyse'es and the Place de la Concorde, and in the follow- ing May the latter was the scene of a desperate struggle between the troops of Versailles and the Communists. The troops had entered Paris on the 21st, and on the following day one of the most formidable obstacles they encountered was the barricade o the Rue Royale (p. 47), which effectually commanded the Place. The injuries it sustained were chiefly due to this las* contest. The statue of Lille was almost entirely destroyed, the fountain towards the S. dedicated to the seas seriously damaged, and the balustrades much injured in places. The obelisk of Luxor fortunately escaped. 6. Champs Elysees. Palais de V Industrie. Palais de VElysee. Maison de Francois I. Hotel Ponipeien. Pont de V Alma. Pont d"Jena. The W. continuation of the Place de la Concorde is formed by the Champs Elysees, originally laid out by Marie de Medicis as a pleasure ground, and planted with elms and lime-trees. It is about half-a-mile in length, and intersected by regular walks and avenues. The principal road which traverses it and leads from the Place de la Concorde to the Arc de l'Etoile, is one of the most fashionable promenades in Paris and is usually crowded with vehicles of all descriptions, especially between 3 and 6 p. m. The Champs Elysees are a favourite resort of the lower as well as of the upper classes, and abound with attractions calculated to suit the taste of the former , such as cafes-chantants, dancing dogs, jugglers, marionettes, show-booths, cake-stalls, etc. These sources of entertainment become most popular towards evening, especially by gas-light, and are in great request till nearly mid- night. They afford the stranger ample opportunity of witnessing one of the characteristic phases of Parisian life. 90 6. CHAMPS ELYSEES. At the entrance to the Champs Elysees are placed two figures of Horse-tamers, executed by Coustou, removed in 1795 from the palace at Marly to their present position, where they form a suitable counterpart to the winged steeds at the egress of the Jardin des Tuileries (p. 85). A Horse-railway, which commences at the Si E. extremity of the Champs Elyse'es, conveys passengers to Boulogne (sur Seine) and Versailles. The principal plantations are a little more than y 4 M. in length, and extend as far as the Bond Point (Place or Etoile des Champs Elysees), a circular space with a fountain in the centre, half-way between the Place de la Concorde and the Arc de l'Etoile. The main avenue, however, slightly ascending, extends to the latter. To the 1. diverges the broad Avenue Montaigne, where on the r. is situated the Jardin Mabille (p. 35), and farther on, on the 1., the Hotel Pompeien (p. 91). Adjoining the Champs Elysees on the N. side is the garden of the Palais de l'Elysee, formerly Elysee Bourbon, erected in 1718, and considerably enlarged under Napoleon III. (front in the Rue du Faubourg St. Honore' 55 — 57). During the reign of Louis XV. this mansion was the residence of Madame de Pom- padour; in 1815, during the 'hundred days', it was occupied by Napoleon I., afterwards by the Duke of Wellington and the Em- peror Alexander ; it subsequently became the seat of the Duchess de Berry, and finally that of the President of the republic pre- vious to his election as emperor and removal to the Tuileries. On the S. side, the Champs Elyse'es have been compelled to yield a considerable space to the Palais de l'Industrie, the most considerable of the modern edifices of Paris, although by no means the most pleasing. It was erected by a company in 1852 — 55, and subsequently purchased by the government. In 1855 it was employed for the first Great Exhibition at Paris, and is now used for the exhibition of manufactures, agricultural pro- ducts, etc. The building, which has a total length of 378 yds. and a width of 144 yds., is constructed in the form of a rectangle. The projecting front, to the N., w T hich contains the principal entrance, is surmounted by a handsome group representing France with outstretched hands, awarding laurel-wreaths to Art and Manu- facture. Over the entrance archway is a high relief representing Agriculture, Industry, and Art, in the act of rendering homage to a bust of the emperor. Above the tiers of pillars on each side are the imperial arms with four genii as bearers, under which are inscribed the names of the emperor and empress. The frieze which separates the basement story from the tirst floor records the names of those who have acquired distinction in the pursuit of art, science, commerce, agriculture, etc. The building was employed as a magazine and hospital during the two sieges of Paris in 1870 and 1871. Numerous panes of glass were destroyed li. CHAMPS ELYSEES. 91 on thes*e occasions, but the building sustained no serious damage. It is now temporarily occupied by the offices of the minister of finance. At the back of the Palais de l'lndustrie (towards the Seine) the f Concerts Musard' take place in summer in the open air (admission 1 fr.) To the W. of the Palais is situated a round building in which panoramas are exhibited (deserving of inspection ). On the op- posite side of the road is situated the Cirque d'Ete (p. 34). The S. side of the Champs Elysees adjoins the Seine (Quai de la Conference), the bank of which is skirted by the Cours la Reine, one of the avenues planted by Marie de Medieis, along which the above-mentioned horse railway runs. One of the most tastefully built private residences in the Renaissance style is the *Maison de Francois I. , which here forms the corner of the Cours de la Reine and the Rue Bayard. The sculptures in front, the re- liefs of the frieze representing vintage festivals, and the portraits in the medallions, were all executed by Jean Goujon, the eminent Huguenot sculptor and one of the victims of St. Bartholomew's night. They were removed in 1826 from Moret, near Fontaine- bleau, from an edifice erected in 1528 by Francis I. for the re- ception of his sister, and employed in the construction of the present building. Adjacent is the handsome residence of Madame Alboni, the celebrated singer of the Italian opera. The Quartier de Francois /., the construction of which was undertaken by a company in 1823, is now nearly completed. The circular Place Francois I. is adorned with a fountain. The Avenue Montaigne, which extends from the Seine, from the W. extremity of the Cours la Reine, to the Rond Point, was formerly termed the Alice des Veuves. Before the time of the first revolution it was, on account of its privacy, the usual drive taken by recently bereaved widows, whom the etiquette of that period forbade to appear in public. About the middle of the Avenue, on the 1. (No. 27) is situ- ated the Hotel Pompeien, erected by the architect M. Nor- mand for Prince Napoleon, in the style of the 'Villa of Diomedes at Pompeii. In I860 it was sold to a company for 1,200,000 fr., by whom it is employed for concerts, and also exhibited to visitors (adm. % fr. ). The interior deserves inspection, al- though it does not convey an adequate idea of the ancient ar- chitecture, which in the case of villas differed considerably from that of ordinary dwelling-houses. Opposite to it is the residence of Prince SoltikofT, erected in the mediaeval style. In the vicinity is the much frequented Gymnastic Establish- ment of M. *Triat, Avenue Montaigne of) — 57 ; farther on, No. 87, the Jar din Mabille (p. 35). 92 7. ARC DE L'ETOILE. The Champ de Mars (p. 171) is reached hence, either by the Pont de VAlma and the Avenue Kapp (the corner-building on the r. was formerly an imperial stable), or by following the Quai de Billy (on the r. an extensive edifice for the 'Subsistances Militaires 1 ) and crossing the Pont d'lena. The Pont de l'Alma was erected in 1856 to commemorate the Crimean campaign, at a cost of 1,200,000 ft. (48,000 l.J. At the extremities are four statues, representing a Zouave, a soldier of the line, an artillery-man, and a chasseur. The Pont d'lena, opposite the Ecole Militaire, constructed in 1806 — 1813, is adorned with huge eagles and four colossal groups: a Greek, a Roman, a Gaul, and an Arabian, each holding an untamed horse. 7. Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile. Russian Church. Chapelle St. Ferdinand. The Avenue, 1 M. in length, which extends from the Place de la Concorde to the Barriere de l'Etoile, is terminated by the ^Triumphal Arch (Arc de Triomphe de VEtoile), the most magnifi- cent structure of the kind in the world. It stands on a slight eminence, nearly 2 M. from the Palais Royal, and is visible from almost every part of the environs of Paris. In 1806 Napoleon I. resolved to erect four triumphal arches in commemoration of his victories. Two only of these were completed, that in the Place du Carrousel by the emperor him- self, and the Arc de l'Etoile (founded Aug. 16th, 1806) by Louis Philippe in 1836. The latter, which cost altogether upwards of 10 million francs (400,000 £.). consists of a vast arch, 101 ft. in height and 48 ft. in breadth, intersected by a transversal arch of much smaller dimensions. The entire structure is 162 ft. in height, 146 ft. in width, and 72 in depth. The following groups adorn the E. front: to the r.. Depar- ture of the troops to the frontier in 1792, by Rude, the finest of the four large groups ; above it, a relief representing the death of General Marceau (fell at Altenkirchen, Sept. 21st, 1796; interred at Coblentz), by Lemaire; — to the 1. Napoleon crowned by the goddess of Victory in 1810, by Cortot; above it, Mustapha Pacha taken prisoner by Murat at the battle of Aboukir, by Seurre. On the W. front, to the r. : Resistance of the French nation to the invading armies in 1814, by Etex ; above it, Passage of the bridge of Arcole (death of Muiron, Bonaparte's adjutant), by Feucheres ; — to the 1., the Peace of 1815, also by Etex; above it, the Taking of Alexandria (Kleber, who has received a wound on the head, points out the enemy to his troops), by Chapon- nitre. For the two large groups by Etex, executed in 1833 — 36, the sum of 140,000 fr. was paid. 7. ARC DE L'ETOILE. 93 The reliefs on the N. face represent a somewhat confused group, by Gechter, of the battle of Austerlitz, in which the myth invented by French historians of the Russian regiments sunk amidst the ice is not wanting ; — on the S. face : the Battle of Jemappes, behind General Dumouriez the Due de Chartres (Louis Philippe) is represented attacking Prussian batteries, by Marochetti. The succession of reliefs on the frieze represent on the E. side the departure, and on the W. side the return of the French ar- mies, by Brun, Jaquot, Seurre and Rude. The figures of Victory on each side of the upper portion of the arch are by Pradier. A series of 30 shields on the cornice above the entablature are inscribed with the names of different victories. On the vaulting of the transversal arch are recorded the names of generals of the republic and of the empire ; the names of those who fell in battle are underlined. In the time of Louis Philippe there were 384 names; Napoleon III. caused two more to be added, those of his father Louis Napoleon and his uncle Jerome. The figures of Victory in relief beneath these names relate to successes gained in the east, north, and south. The cock interchanges with the eagle in the coat of arms. The prospect from the Platform deservedly enjoys its high reputation. The ascent is by a spiral staircase of 261 steps in the S. pillar (fee 25 c). No plan has yet been made with regard to some suitable sculpture to be placed on the summit, in order to give an appropriate finish to the monument. The arch sustained no serious injury during the sieges of 1870 — 71, but numerous bullet-marks are still observable. In the vicinity of the Arc de l'Etoile, towards the N., Rue Beaujon 21, is situated a remarkably handsome and peculiarly ornamented mansion, which in 1852 was purchased by the de- throned Duke Charles of Brunswick from Lola Montez. Many of the new buildings in this neighbourhood are very tastefully constructed. In the Rue de la Croix, in this qruater of the city, is situ- ated the Russian Church (accessible on Sund., Tuesd., Thursd.. 3 — 5 p. m.), recognisable at a considerable distance by the glittering- gilded star by which it is surmounted. The entire edifice is richly decorated; the interior is tastefully adorned with pictures. The Iconostas, or screen between the nave and choir, is covered with pictures of Russian saints. The continuation of the Avenue des Champs Elysees beyond the Arc de l'Etoile is termed the Avenue de Neuilly, and leads to Neuilly, for which an omnibus starts every 10 min. from the Louvre, via the Barriere de l'Etoile. From the latter to the bridge over the Seine at Neuilly in 20 min., fare 30 c. The pa- lace, once the favourite residence of Louis Philippe, was totally 7. ARC I)E LETOJLE. destroyed, Feb. 25th, 1848: the site, with the park, have now passed into private hands. The suburb of Neuilly suffered severely during the civil war of 1871. Many houses were totally destroyed, while few escaped entirely uninjured. The Bois de Boulogne (p. 05) adjoins the S. side of the Ave- nue de Neuilly. On the N. side of the Avenue, nearly opposite the Porte Maillot, formerly the principal entrance of the Bois de Boulogne, the Chemin de la Revolte, a broad street with few houses, diverges from the main road. In this street, about 100 yds. from the Avenue de Neuilly, is situated the entrance to the *Chapel of St. Ferdinand on the right, a cruciform mauso- leum in the Lombard style, 50 ft. in length and 20 ft. in height, marking the spot were the ill-fated and lamented Ferdinand, Duke of Orleans, breathed his last, July 13th, 1842, in consequence of injuries received by a fall from his carriage. The house in which the duke expired was purchased by Louis Philippe, who caused the chapel to be erected on the site as a memorial of the melancholy event. On the high-altar is a Descent from the Cross in marble, by Triquetti. To the 1. is the altar of St. Ferdinand, opposite to which is placed a group in the form of a sarcophagus, representing the Duke on his death-bed, also by Triquetti, from drawings by Ary SchefTer. The figure of a Spraying angel at the head of the dying prince was executed by his sister Marie d'Orleans, wife of Duke Alexander of Wurtem- berg, who died Jan. 2nd, 1839. The windows are rilled with stained glass from drawings by Ingres (these designs are preserved in the Luxembourg, see p. 146), and represent Faith, Hope, Charity, and fourteen saints whose names correspond with those of the royal family ; St. Ferdinand and St. Helena are portraits of the Duke himself and his consort Helen of Mecklenburg (d. 1858). Behind the high-altar several steps lead into the Sacristy, which is the exact spot where the Duke expired. A picture by Jacquand, painted in 1844, represents this affecting scene. Around the couch of the dying prince are the king, the queen, the Prin- cess Clementine, the Dukes of Aumale and Montpensier, Marshals Sou It and Gerard, and the cure of Neuilly. The chapel is accessible to visitors from 10 to 5 o'clock (fee 50 c. to 1 fr.). The station to the r., in the vicinity of the Chemin de la Re'volte, is on the branch railway from Auteuil by Passy, Porte- Dauphine and Porte-Maillot (mentioned above) to the railway station for Rouen or Versailles in the Rue St. Lazare. Train to Paris every 20 min. 95 8. Pare de Monceaux. The *Parc de Monceaux, which by the Avenue de la Reine Hortense is about l / 2 M. distant from the Arc de l'Etoile, and by the Boulevart Malesherbes about 1 M. distant from the Madeleine, is one of the most delightful promenades of Paris, and affords a pleasant retreat to those who desire to escape from the heat and bustle of the town. The park, which formerly appertained to the domain of Mon- ceaux or Mousseaux, once a portion of the lordship of Cluny, was purchased by Philip of Orleans (Egalite), father of Louis Philippe, in 1778, and newly laid out under the directions of Carmontel. The style in which this was effected was intended to be something entirely novel, differing from both French and English established notions, so as to inspire the visitor at each step with mingled feelings of surprise and delight. This intention was carried out with considerable success, and the park became one of the most fashionable resorts of the 1 haute volee'. Balls, plays and festivities of the most brilliant description were here celebrated, on which occasions the utmost magnificence was dis- played. In gorgeous attire and personal charms few could vie vath the Duchess of Chartres, Louise Marie de Bourbon-Penthievre, mother of Louis Philippe. During the revolution the park became national property. Napoleon I. presented it to his chancellor Cambaceres, who how- ever soon restored it to his imperial master, on account of the great expense in which it involved him. At the Restoration it again became the property of the house of Orleans. After having in 1848 been employed for the 'national ateliers', it eventually fell into the possession of the town, and has under the direction of Alphand been converted into a charming public promenade, accessible to carriages, riders, and foot-passengers. The park is connected with the town by the broad boulevarts above mentioned, and has four entrances, which at night are closed by gates. The grounds themselves combine the beauty and taste of the modern flower-gardens of Paris with the striking and peculiar effects produced by the former arrangement of the park, the principal features of which have been carefully preserved: such as the rock-work and grotto, the grove with the tombstone, the piece of ornamental water partially surrounded by columns of the Corinthian order, etc. 9. Bois de Boulogne. Fortifications. — Jardin & Accumulation. The handsome Avenue Uhrich (formerly de V Imperatrice), almost entirely cut down in 1870 — 71, 150 yards in breadth, 3 / 4 M. in length, from the Arc de l'Etoile to the Porte Dauphine), leads from 00 9. BO IS DE BOULOGNE. the triumphal arch in a S.W. direction to the *Bois de Boulogne, now a delightful park, once a forest abounding with game, the resort of duellists and persons suicidally disposed, and the haunt of ban- dits. When the Prussians and Russians were here encamped in 1814 and 1815, a great portion of the wood disappeared. Louis XVIII. caused new trees to be planted, and Charles X. ordered that game should once more be preserved in the forest; the July revolution, however, put a stop to these proceedings. Under Louis Philippe, although the Bois de Boulogne was one of the crown-domains, little was done to improve it. In 1852 it was transferred to the municipality, on condition that a sum of two million francs should be expended on it within four years, and that it should be maintained for the future at the municipal expense. The city accordingly converted it into a charming park , which has become a favourite promenade of the Parisians. The traveller is recommended to drive through the park in the afternoon between 3 and 5 o'clock, when it presents an animated scene , especially on the roads between the Avenue Uhrich and the lakes, where the handsomest equipages and most tasteful toilettes may generally be observed. In 1870 a considerable portion of the wood adjacent to the fortifications was cut down as a preparation for the impending- Prussian siege. The trees surrounding the lakes were fortunately spared, but the bark of many of the trees left standing was much injured during the bombardments. The N. part of the wood, adjoining the Jardin d'Acclimatation (see below), suffered severely during the second siege, and in the summer of 1871 the once smiling Bois presented a deplorably battered appearance. The most necessary repairs were however speedily executed, and the work of restoration commenced by planting new trees ; so that, notwithstanding its misfortunes , the wood still affords a most refreshing and picturesque retreat to the traveller wearied with sight-seeing in the city. About i M. from the Arc de l'Etoile (*/2 M. from the ex- tremity of the Avenue Uhrich , comp. the Plan) two artificial lakes, the Lac Inferieur , about 3 / 4 M. in length and 100 yds. in breadth, and the Lac Superieur, about ^4 M. in length, have been constructed. In the vicinity of these sheets of water, and on the islands, every kind of attraction may be found calculated to refresh and entertain the denizen of the city. On one of the ^islands (ferry there and back 20 c. ; boat on the lake for 1 — 7 pers. 3 fr. , 8 — 14 pers. 5 fr. per half hour) is situated a large and tastefully constructed Chalet in the Swiss style, employed as a cafe, where dejeuners, diners, and soupers may be procured (charges not exorbitant). As cafes are one of the chief characteristics of every Parisian resort, the hungry and !). BOIS DE BOULOGNE. 97 thirsty wayfarer will find numerous opportunities of refreshment in all parts of the wood (comp. p. 14). Until recently the Pre Catelan, where the Concerts Musard now take place, was perhaps the nucleus of attraction for visitors to the Bois de Boulogne. It is now, however, deserted for the ^Chalet des lies already mentioned, a resort of a similar description, (admission 1 fr.), where music, an open air theatre, games of all descriptions, a reading-room, etc. allure vast numbers of pleasure seekers. On summer evenings by gaslight the chalet presents a scene of the gayest description. As the number of ferryboats is limited, visitors should secure a ticket for the return transit im- mediately on crossing ; if this precaution be neglected, a longer detention on the island than anticipated will be the probable result. The outlet of the lakes at the Carrefour du Bout du Lac (at the E. end of the Lac Inferieur) forms two artificial brooklets, one of which leads to the Pavilion Armenonville, whilst the other, the l Riviere de Neuilly\ is skirted by pleasant shady paths leading to the *Cascade near the Carrefour de Longchamp , an artificial waterfall of considerable height, which is precipitated from a grotto. The height above the cascade affords a fine view of the valley of the Seine; to the 1. on the opposite bank lies St. Cloud; opposite the spectator is the Hippodrome de Longchamp , where races take place in spring; farther distant, in a straight direc- tion, are seen the remains of the former Abbey of I^ongcliamp and the village of Suresnes ; to the r., at some distance rises Fort Valerien (p. 98). Near the cascade is a good Cafe. The traveller may prefer first to proceed from the lakes farther towards the S.W., and then reach the cascade by following the bank of the Seine. He may then return towards the N. by the Mare de St. James and the Jardin d'Acclimatation (p. 98). Ranelagh and Madrid , two well known places of popular resort, are also within the precincts of the Bois de Boulogne. La Muette, St. James, Passy, Auteuil, etc., all in the environs of the Bois the Boulogne , abound with villas and summer resi- dences of every variety. The Chemin de fer d J Auteuil and the Chemin de fer Americain (p. 27) both convey passengers to the Bois de Boulogne, as well as innumerable omnibuses some of which pass through the Barriere de l'Etoile, and others through the Barriere de Passy. The stranger may either avail himself of one of these conveyances, and having reached his destination visit the park on foot, or may prefer to engage a fiacre or voiture de remise by the hour which he may quit and re-enter at pleasure. A drive of two hours suffices for a hurried glimpse at the principal points of attraction ; if however, the weather be propitious, a whole day may be spent very pleasantly in thoroughly exploring B^f.dek vai. Paris. 3rd Edition. 7 98 9. BOIS DE BOULOGNE. the Bois de Boulogne , in which case the annexed plan will be found a useful companion. Adjacent to the Avenue Uhrich to the 1., is the Hippodrome, partly burned down in 1871, a circus in which equestrian perfor- mances take place times a week in summer. Adm. 1 — 3 fr. The Fortifications of the city skirt the Bois de Boulogne on the E. side. In consequence of a decree of 1840, Paris was fortified and enr/ircled with ramparts, a work which was completed within three years at an expense of 140 million francs (5,600,000 £.). The entire length of the enceinte is upwards of 21 M., and con- sists of 94 different bastions. The ramparts, which average 30 ft. in height, are environed by a ditch, 18 ft. in depth, and a glacis, or belt of wood, which was cut down in 1870; previously to the Prussian siege. The approaches to the city are commanded by 17 Forts detaches, the principal of which is Mont Valerien; most of these were entirely destroyed in 1870 — 71. That part of the Bois de Boulogne which skirts the Boulevart de Maillot, and lies between the Porte des Sablons and the Porte de Madrid, is termed the Jardin d'Acclimatation (omnibus C, Louvre-Courbevoie, will convey the visitor, who should alight at the bridge near the entrance), formerly one of the most attractive spots in the environs of Paris. Several desperate conflicts took place here and in the vicinity between the Versailles troops and the insurgents in April and May, 1871. Many of the animals were killed, and the garden was converted into a dreary wilder- ness. The faithful concierge, a discharged soldier, and his wife remained at their post while these fearful scenes were being enacted , but the former was killed by a federal bullet when venturing forth in quest of provisions. In July, 1871, the garden was 'reouvert au public, bien qu'il soit encore dans l'e'tat ou l'ont laisse les derniers evenements 1 . The work of restoration is progressing slowly. Various experiments are made here with a view to acclimatise foreign plants, animals, and birds. Seeds, eggs, and the young of different animals may be purchased at moderate prices at the manager's office, to the r. at the entrance near the Porte des Sablons. The garden is accessible the whole day to carriages, riders, and foot-passengers (admission 1 fr., can*. 3 fr.). The principal entrance is on the E. side, near the Porte des Sablons; a second is at Neuilly, near the Porte de Madrid. The grounds are beautifully laid out, and furnished with tastefully constructed cages, hothouses, and pavilions for the four-footed inmates. The stream which traverses the garden, with its picturesque miniature islands and rustic bridges, serves for the culture of aquatic plants. To the r. of the chief entrance, facing the S., are the recep- tacles for animals from warmer climates; then in the main avenue, to the r., the visitor will perceive the Silkworm Nursery, where 10. HOTEL DE VILLE. 99 various species are reared, and fed on suitable plants which are grown in the vicinity for the purpose. Farther on is the Aviary, divided into 21 different compartments, and the Poultry Enclosure with its 31 compartments. A large building at the extremity of the garden contains the Stables, a restaurant, and a room for the exhibition of articles connected with the object of the garden. Returning from the stables to the principal entrance by the main avenue, the visitor should now inspect the *Aquarium, consisting of 10 glass reservoirs rilled with sea-water and 4 with fresh , which is constantly renewed by means of pumps. An admirable opportunity is here afforded for observing the habits of the finny tribe. The same building contains a receptacle for the artificial breeding of fish. To the S., by the chief entrance, is situated the beautiful Hot-house, where the reis a reading-room and a restaurant. Adjacent are several smaller -hothouses con- taining an extensive collection of plants. — Two of the principal managers of the Jardin d'Acclimatation are Englishmen. The Jardin will, however, it is feared, soon be closed, as the city is at present unable to pay the 50,000 fr. annually necessary for its maintenance. 10. Hotel de Ville. Rue de Rivoli. Boulevart de Sibastopol. Tour St. Jacques. Place clu Chdtelet. Fontaine St. Michel. The Hotel de Ville, or town-hall of Paris (ruins not accessible) was entirely destroyed by fire on May 24th, 1871. No edifice in Paris was so interesting, architecturally and historically, none has passed through such varied vicissitudes, and none has been overtaken with such utter ruin as this noble pile. The loss to Paris is irreparable, the value of the property destroyed, including the library of 100,000 vols, and numerous important public do- cuments, incalculable. The construction of this once magnificent edifice was commenced in 1533, but was suspended until the reign of Henry IV., when it was completed by the Italian architect Domenico di Cortona in 1628, in the Renaissance style, with columns chiefly of the Corinthian order. As the original structure afforded too limited accommodation for the principal civic dignitary of Paris (now L Prefet de la Seine ; previously to 1789, 'Pre'vot des Marchands') and his staff of officials, it received such extensive additions in 1837 — 41, that its dimensions were increased fourfold. Notwithstanding its vast size, it was again deemed necessary in 1857 to make further provision for the offices of the Prefecture by erecting two buildings opposite the principal facade, on the other side of the palace. The edifice, which is in the form of a rectangle, 300 ft. long, 250 ft. broad, and furnished with three courts, stands in an open 7* 100 10. HOTEL DE VILLE. situation. The niches contained statues of celebrated Parisians of all ages, down to Bailly, mayor of Paris at the outbreak of the first revolution, and Lafayette, commandant of the National Guard in 1830. Over the principal entrance was placed an equestrian figure of Henry IV. in relief. Several of these statues have es- caped destruction, but they were all more or less seriously injured. The first court was adorned with a bronze statue of Louis XIV., attired as a Roman, and wearing a wig, by Coyzevox, and was furnished with marble tablets bearing inscriptions in commem- oration of the achievements of the great monarch. The reception and ball-rooms on the first floor were fitted up in a style so gorgeous as entirely to eclipse the splendour of the most sumptuous imperial palaces , and the ceilings of several of the apartments were painted by the eminent artists Ingres, Delacroix, Lehmann, etc. The splendour-loving metropolis had in fact done its utmost to enable its chief dignitary , the Prefet de la Seine, to perform his functions with becoming magnificence. The kitchens of the souterrain were so extensive that a repast for 1000 persons could without difficulty be prepared, as was the case on July 14th, 1856, when the Emperor Napoleon HI. and his empress were entertained on the occasion of the baptism of the imperial prince. The different offices in the Hotel de Ville were occupied by upwards of 500 officials. The prefect is the superior officer of the twenty maires of Paris, each of whom presides over one of the twenty arrondissements, and of the two sousprefets of St. Denis and Sceaux, which together with the city itself con- stitute the Department of the Seine. The Hotel de Ville has played a conspicuous part in the different revolutions, having been the usual rallying place for the democratic party. On July 14th, 1789, the conquerors of the Bastille were conducted in triumph into the great hall. Three days later Louis XVI. was conveyed to the same apartment from Versailles, accompanied by dense masses of the populace, whose excitement was somewhat allayed when the king presented him- self at the window with a tri-coloured cockade with which he was furnished by the maire Bailly. Here the Commune, the tool em- ployed by Robespierre against the Convention , was holding one of its meetings, July 27th, 1794 (9th Thermidor), when Barras with five battalions effected -his entrance by force in the name of the Convention, and Robespierre, to escape apprehension, attempted to destroy himself, but only succeeded in shattering his jaw. Here too was celebrated the union of the July kingdom with the bour- geoisie , when Louis Philippe presented himself at one of the windows, about the beginning of August, 1830, and in view of the populace was embraced by Lafayette. From the steps of the Hotel de Ville, Feb. 24th, 1848, Louis Blanc proclaimed the establishment of the republic. 10. HOTEL DE VILLE. 101 From Sept. 4th, 1870, to Feb. 28th, 1871, the Hotel de Ville was the seat of the 'gouvernement de la defense nationale', and from March 19th to May 22nd, 1871, that of the Communist usurpers and their pretended 'oomite du salut public'. In . con- sequence of the secret resolution passed by the ringleaders of these miscreants on May 20th (comp. p. 82), heaps of combustibles soaked with petroleum , as well as barrels of gunpowder , were placed in various parts of the building. At the same time the insurgents had strongly barricaded every approach to the building, which from the first had been the great centre of their sphere of action, and where they had accumulated every possible means of defence. On the morning of May 24th a fearful struggle com- menced in the Place de l'Hotel de Ville , and was protracted without intermission until the following morning. As the insur- gents were gradually driven back they gave vent to their rage and despair by setting on fire many of the surrounding buildings and murdering the inhabitants, and two of their number specially charged with the task by the commandant Pindy ignited the combustibles in the Hotel de Ville, while about 600 of the mis- guided wretches were still within its precincts. The troops, now masters of the entire neighbourhood, directed an incessant fire against the devoted building and its unhappy occupants. Not one of the latter was suffered to escape ; no quarter was given to those who issued from the blazing pile, while those who remained within its walls met with a still more appalling fate. The wild and distorted aspect of the ruin is accounted for by the fearful explosion of gunpowder which took place in it during the con- flagration. Napoleon III. materially enhanced the external appearance of the edifice by causing the entire removal of the numerous squalid lanes and alleys by which it was formerly surrounded, and which have been so well depicted by the masterly pen of Eugene Sue. The demolition of these unwholesome purlieus has made way for the continuation of the broad and handsome Rue de Eivoli, the construction of which between the Place du Palais Royal and the Place de l'Hotel de Ville alone necessitated the removal of up- wards of 300 houses. Another improvement of the late regime was the erection in 1854 of the extensive Caserne Napoleon, capable of accommodating 2500 men, situated in the rear of the Hotel de Ville and connected with it by means of subterranean passages. Adjacent to it, on the quay, is situated a second com- modious barrack for cavalry and artillery, erected in 1857. These precautionary measures were intended to prevent the recurrence of the rebellious scenes so frequently witnessed by the Hotel de Ville, but the terrible events of May 24th, 1871, prove how signally they have failed in their effect. In the Place de i Hotel de Ville , formerly termed Place de 102 10. HOTEL DE VILLE. Oreve (i. e. of the bank of the river), many a dark tragedy has also been enacted. During a long series of years the stake and the scaffold here exercised their dismal sway. In 1572, after the massacre of St. Bartholomew, Catharine de Medicis here doomed the Huguenot chiefs Briquemont and Cavagnes to perish ignomin- iously by the gallows; in 1574 she ordered the Comte Montgomery, captain of the Scottish guard, to be tortured and executed for having at a tournament accidentally caused the death of her hus- band Henri II. From that period until July, 1789, the Place de Greve witnessed the execution of numerous victims of a despotic government, as well as criminals. Here, too, after the capture of the Bastille by the populace, Foulon, general controller of the finances, and his son-in-law Bertier were hanged on lamp-posts, the first victims of the revolution. The Guillotine, an instrument for the decapitation of criminals recommended by the physician Guillotin to the Convention , was first employed in the Place de Greve , whence it was soon re- moved to the Place de la Concorde (p. 86). From 1795 till after the July revolution the Place again became the usual place of execution ; during that period, however, these revolting scenes were rarely enacted. A few paces to the W. of the Hotel de Ville the Rue de Rivoli is intersected by the Boulevart de Sebastopol, one of the magnificent streets constructed under Napoleon III. by M. Hauss- mann, Prefet de la Seine. In the small public garden (where great numbers of the victims of the Revolution of 1871 were interred) which lies at the inter- section of these streets rises the detached *Tour St. Jacques de la Boucherie, a handsome square Gothic tower, 175 ft. in height, erected in 1508 — 22, now the sole remnant of a church which was taken down in 1789 and sold as national property. The view from the summit (adm. 10 c.) is unquestionably the finest in Paris, as the tower occupies a very central position ; in the immediate vicinity flows the Seine with its numerous bridges, at the spec- tator's feet lie the new buildings of the Rue de Rivoli and Boule- vart de Sebastopol, the Hotel de Ville, etc. The purchase and restoration of the tower have cost the city nearly a million francs (40,000 £.). — In the hall on the ground-floor is a statue of the philosopher Pascal. Farther to the N. the Boulevart de Sebastopol intersects the great Boulevarts (p. 42) between the Porte St. Martin and the Porte St. Denis , and its continuation thence to the Strasbourg- station is termed Boulevart de Strasbourg. — Towards the S. of the Tour de St. Jacques is situated the Place du Chatelet, which is open on the side towards the Seine. In 1807 Napoleon I. caused a fountain to be erected here as a Monument in commemoration of his victories. Beneath are four figures representing Fidelity. 11. PALAIS DE JUSTICE 103 Vigilance, Justice, and Power; a brazen palm in the centre is in- scribed with names of battles ; at the summit is a statue of Victory, with raised hands, as if in the act of conferring wreaths of laurel. The whole is a work of Bosio. The monument originally stood farther from the Seine, but was removed entire to its present position on the construction of the Boulevart de Sebastopol. To the r. and L of the Place du Chatelet are situated the Theatre Lyrique (burned down in May, 1871) and the Theatre du Chatelet respectively (comp. p. 32). The Pont au Change, of equal breadth with the Boulevart itself, here crosses an arm of the Seine to the Cite islandj and is prolonged by the street passing between the Palais de Justice (see below) and the Tribunal du Commerce (street to the 1. to Notre Dame, see p. 113), beyond which the Pont St. Michel crosses to the Place of that name, decorated with the Fontaine St. Michel, an imposing structure , but in somewhat questionable taste. In the centre is represented St. Michael's victory over Satan, modelled by Duret, emblematical of Louis Napoleon's victory over the re- volution ; at the top, female figures emblematical of the four car- dinal virtues of a monarch. The inscription is as follows : l Fonde sous le regne de Napoleon III., Empereur des Francais, ce mo- nument a ete eleve par la ville de Paris en I860.' — Beyond the fountain the Boulevart St. Michel leads to the Jar din du Luxembourg (p. 147) and the Car re four de VObservatoire (p. 147). 11. Palais de Justice. Sainte Chapelle. Conciergerie. Prefecture de Police. Place Dauphine. Pont Neuf. Morgue. The W. half of the island in the Seine termed La Cite, at the W. extremity of which the Pont Neuf is situated, is occupied by an almost unbroken mass of buildings, consisting of the Palais de Justice in the centre, the Conciergerie on the Quai de l'Horloge to the N. , and the Prefecture de Police on the Quai des Orfevres to the S. The island was in ancient times the residence of the French monarchs, until their royal mansion was ceded by Henri II. (d. 1559) to the parliament, at that period the supreme tribunal of the kingdom. The original edifice suffered so much by fire in 1618, and again in 1776, that nothing of*it now remains except the towers: La Tour de l'Horloge, La Tour du Grand Cesar, La Tour de Montgomery, all on the N. side, and beyond them the pinnacled Tour a" Argent. The first of these towers, situated at the N.E. corner of the Palais, contiguous to the Pont au Change, with the large clock adorned with two figures representing Justice and Piety, was carefully restored and decorated in 1852. The entire Palais de Justice underwent extensive alterations between 1839 and 1871, the numerous dark passages and nooks 104 11. PALAIS DE JUSTICE. which disfigured the interior having been removed. The new buildings on the W. side were completed in 1869, and the fitting up of the interior was progressing rapidly when war was declared by the French against Prussia in 1870. The wanton destruction of the greater part of this imposing pile on May 22nd, 1871, forms another of the hideous list of crimes of which the Commune was guilty. Several of the courts were entirely destroyed, others more or less injured, but the work of restoration progresses rapidly, and the business of the different tribunals is still, although under difficulties, transacted within the building. The different courts of justice, the Cour de Cassation (entirely destroyed in 1871), the Cour d'Appel, the Assises, the Tribunal de Premiere Instance, and the Tribunal de Police Municipale, hold their sessions here from 11 till 3 o'clock, and may be visited by those who desire to witness the proceedings of a French tribunal. A guide (1 fr.) will prove of essential service. In the Chambre Correctionelle very amusing scenes sometimes occur, and the plead- ing is often admirable ; the stranger, however, who is well ac- quainted with the French language, should visit one of the courts in which a civil suit is being tried, and where he will hear some of the most eminent advocates plead. The eloquence of the French Barreau is held in high repute. Several of the courts (Chambres) are entered from a handsome and lofty hall (now more than half destroyed), supported by pillars, 230 ft. long and 90 ft. »broad, termed the Salle des Pas Perdus. Judges and advocates in their black robes, as well as clients, are usually seen pacing up and down in this hall. Around it sit the public writers, whose office is to render assistance with their pens to inexperienced litigants. This busy scene is the sole point of interest in the Palais de Justice for those who do not desire to visit the courts themselves. The monument on the r. side of the hall was erected by Louis XVIII. in 1821 to the memory of the minister Malesherbes (beheaded in 1794), the defender of Louis XVI. before the revolutionary tribunal, as the relief beneath, by Cortot, indicates; the statue is by Bosio; on the sides are figures emblematic of * France and Fidelity, with the inscription : Strenue semper fidelis regi suo, in solio veritatem, praesidium in carcere attulit. (Ever strenuously faithful to his king, fie served him with truth on the throne and assistance in prison). Under the Communist regime in 1871 the infamous Ra oul Rigault, the 'procureur' of the Commune, established himself with his accomplice Gaston Dacosta, at first in the Cour de Cas- sation , and afterwards in the Salle des Appels Correctionels, where the guards of Paris and the 'sergents de ville' arrested by order of the 'comite central' on March 18th were condemned to death by a mock tribunal. On the morning of May 22nd 11. PALAIS DE JUSTICE. Rigault ordered petroleum to be poured out in different parts of the palace and set on fire. Owing to these preparations the fire spread with fearful rapidity, and before the close of the day the greater part of the palace was reduced to a heap of ruins. In the S. court of the Palais de Justice rises the *Sainte Chapelle, the ancient palace-chapel, erected in 1245 — 48 by Pierre de Montereau for the reception of the sacred relics (fragments of the crown of thorns , the true cross , and the garment of the Saviour, and the head of the spear with which his side was pierced) , which are said to have been purchased by St. Louis from Jean de Brienne , king of Jerusalem, and his son-in-law Baldwin, emperor of Byzantium, for the sum of 2 million francs. The chapel, a perfect gem of its kind, and the most beautiful Gothic edifice in Paris, fortunately escaped destruction in 1871, although almost entirely surrounded by a blazing mass of build- ings. The height, including the modern spire which replaces one burned down in 1630, is about 150 ft., length 130 ft., breadth 42 ft. The interior consists of two chapels, the upper and the lower , the former having been destined for the accommodation of the court, the latter for the attendants. The lower chapel, consisting of a nave with aisles, supported by clustered columns and richly decorated , has recently been restored. The elegant windows of the upper chapel, 48 ft. in height and 14 ft. in width, with their beautiful tracery and finely coloured old stained glass, contain allegorical scenes from the life of St. Louis , coeval with the foundation. The handsome altar (recently restored) is also worthy of notice. From 1793 until the recent restoration it served as a receptacle for the documents of the lawyers of the Palais de Justice. In the lower chapel the poet Boileau (d. 1711) is interred. The Sainte Chapelle is, strictly speaking, only accessible to those who are furnished with a written permission from the Ministre des Beaux Arts ; admission may, however, generally be obtained by applying to the porter (1 fr.). The Conciergerie , the gloomy walls and ancient towers ol which overlook the Seine on the N. side, is the oldest of this mass of buildings, and serves as a prison for those who are about to undergo an examination. It escaped almost without injury on May 22nd, 1871, while the adjoining Palais de Justice and Pre- fecture where almost entirely destroyed. Most of the political prisoners mentioned at p. 86 were confined here before they were conducted to the guillotine. The chamber once occupied by Marie Antoinette, who had been conveyed hither from the Temple, is now converted into the sacristy of the chapel. Three pictures by Simon, Pajou, and Drolling, represent some of the closing scenes of her life. A black marble tablet on the wall bears the following inscription, which is said to have been composed by Louis XVIII. 106 11. PALAIS DE JUSTICE. himself: 'D. 0. M. Hoc in loco Maria Antonia Josepha Johanna Austriaca, Ludovici XVI vidua, conjuge trucidato, liberis ereptis, in careerem conjecta, per dies 76 aerumnis luctu et squalore ad- fecta, sed propria virtute innixa ut in solio , ita et in vinculis major em fortuna se praebuit. A scelestissimis denique hominibus capite damnata, morte jam imminente, aeternum pietatis, forti- tudinis, omniumque virtutem monumentum hie scripsit, die 16. Oc- tobris 1793. Restituto tandem regno, career in sacrarium conversus dicatus est, A. D. 1816, Ludovici XVIII regnantis anno XXII., Comite de Cazes a securitate publica Regis ministro , praefecto aedilibusque curantibus. Quisquis hie ades , adora, admirare, precare.' (In the name of the Almighty. In this place Marie Antoinette Josepha Johanna of Austria, widow of Louis XVI., after her husband had been slain and her children torn away from her, was cast into prison and tortured by misery, grief, and humiliation during 76 days ; but, supported by her own virtue, as when on the throne, so even in prison she proved herself supe- rior to fortune. Finally condemned to death by the most wicked men, her death being now at hand, she here wrote an everlasting monument of piety, fortitude, and all virtues, Oct. 16th, 1723. When the kingdom was at last re-established, this prison was converted into a sacristy, A. D. 1816, in the 22nd year of the reign of Louis XVIII., under the superintendence of Count de Cazes, minister of police, the prefect, and the sheriffs. Whoever thou be that art here present, revere, admire, pray). The Prefecture de Police was established in 1800 in two buildings situated on the W. side of the Palais de Justice, termed the Cour des Comptes (erected in 1504, burned down in 1737 , and subsequently rebuilt) and the Hotel des Premiers Presidents du Parlement (erected in 1607). These buildings having become inadequate to the requirements of modern times, it was determined to transfer the Prefecture to a new edifice adjoining the Palais de Justice on the S. side, and facing the Quai des Orfevres. This new Prefecture was completed in 1870, but the transference of the offices had not been effected when the Franco-Prussian war was declared. The old prefecture had been occupied by twenty - seven different prefects; the last usurpers of the office were the Communists Raoul Rigault and his successor Th. Ferre (a member of the 'comite du salut public'). One of the most inhuman crimes of which the former of these was guilty was committed here on May 24th , 1871 , the day of the burning of the Prefecture by his accomplice Ferre. On the morning of that day Rigault ordered 150 prisoners detained at the Depot de la Prefecture to be set at liberty. Their joy at their supposed release was of brief duration, for they were now required to aid in the defence of the barricades against the government troops. This they refused to do, and the insurgents at once began to fire on them. The survivors then retreated hastily to the prison which they had quitted , but found it in flames, and thus fell an easy prey to the savage wrath of their murderers. 11. PALAIS DE JUSTICE. 107 From this point as a centre emanated all the threads which constituted the partly visible and partly invisible network of police authority which extended over the entire city. The pre- fect of the police had an annual sum of 13 million francs at his command , for the maintenance of 300 officials, 7000 commis- saries, inspectors, and sergents de ville, 3000 men of the Garde municipale , and 800 sapeurs- pompiers or fire-men. By this efficient staff the public security, as well as the public health, were admirably provided for. Paris , the once notorious Lutetia (muddy city) , became one of the cleanest towns in the world, and, notwithstanding the 60,000 malefactors which it was com- puted to harbour, afforded greater security to its inhabitants than the quietest provincial town. Under the present Republican regime, this admirably organised police system continues to exist, although with some modifications. The buildings of the prefecture, however, the old, as well as the new above mentioned , were destroyed on May 24th , 1871 ; the former entirely , being partially constructed of wood , the latter in the interior only. On May 23rd, Ferre, the last soi- disant prefect, ordered the walls and furniture of these extensive structures to be saturated with petroleum, and caused the con- cierge to be imprisoned for refusing to aid in this criminal proceeding. On the same evening this ruffian and twenty-nine of his associates celebrated a banquet within the buildings , to which they set fire in eleven different places after the termination of their midnight orgies. The concierge fortunately effected his escape, and succeeded in rescuing a number of valuable do- cuments from the flames, but all efforts to extinguish the con- flagration were fruitless. On the W. side of the Palais is situated the triangular Place Dauphine, constructed under Henry IV., with brick houses coeval with those of the Place des Yosges (p. 40), and formerly the resi- dence of the parliamentary advocates and officials. In the centre of the Place, which was much damaged in May, 1871, stands Desaixs Monument, a fountain surmounted by a bust of the general, who is crowned with laurel by a figure emblematic of France : two figures of Victory record the names of the battles fought by the hero. The inscriptions are as follows: ^Allez dire au premier consul que je meurs avec le regret de n avoir pas assez fait pour la posterite . — Landau, Kehl, Weissen- bourg, Malte, Chebreis, Embabe, les Pyramides, Sediman, Saman- hout, Kane, Thebes, Marengo parent les temoins de ses talents et de son courage. Les ennemis Vappelaient le Juste; ses soldats, comme ceux de Bayard, sans peur et sans reproche; il vecut, il mourut pour sa patrie. L. Ch. Ant. Desalt, ne a Ayot, departe- ment du Puy -de-Dome, le 17 aout 1758 ; mort a Marengo le 25 prai- rial an VIII de la repubiique (14 juin 1800). Ce monument lui 108 11. PONT NEUF. fut eleve par des amis de sa gloire et de sa vertu, sous le con- sulat de Bonaparte, Van X de la republique.' The W. issue opens on the *Pont Neuf, a bridge across both arms of the Seine, 350 yds. in length, on which is situated the equestrian Statue of Henry IV., erected to replace one which had stood here from 1635 to 1791, when it was melted down and con- verted into pieces of ordnance. By way of retaliation Louis XVIII. condemned the statue of Napoleon from the Vendome column and that of Desaix from the Place des Victoires to a similar fate. The inscription in front is to the following effect : 'Henrici Magni, paterno in popuium animo notissimi principis, sacram effigiem, civiles inter tumult us, Gallia indignante, dejectam, post optatum Ludovici XVIII reditum ex omnibus ordinibus cives aere collato restituerunt. Nec non et elogium cum effigie simul aboiitum lapidi rursus inscribi curaverunt. D. D. die 25 mensis Aug. 1818. 1 (After the longed-for return of Louis XVIII., the citizens of all ranks, having made contributions, restored the sacred image of Henry the Great, (a prince distinguished for his paternal feelings towards his people), which to the indignation of France, had been thrown down during the Civil war. They moreover caused the inscription which had been destroyed with the statue to be again inscribed on the monument. Aug. 25th, .1818.) The following is the original inscription to which allusion is made in the above : ''Enrico IV., Galliarum imperatori Navar. R. Ludovicus XIII. filius ejus, opus inc 1 outum et intermissum, pro dignitate pietatis et imperii plenius et amplius ab solvit. Emin. D. C. Richelius commune votum populi promovit. Super illustr. viri de Buillon, Boutillier, aerarii, faciendum curaverunt 1635: (To Henry IV., king of France and Navarre, Louis XIII. his son, as a worthy memorial of his filial love and of his reign, completed this monu- ment in a better and superior style, after it had been commenced and in- terrupted. His Eminence Cardinal Richelieu gratified the univeral wish of the people. The counsellors of the treasury, de Buillon and Boutillier, superintended the work. 1635). At the sides are two reliefs in bronze: Henry IV. causing bread to be distributed among the citizens of Paris, who had sought protection of him during the siege, and his halt at Notre Dame, where he causes peace to be proclaimed to the inhabit- ants by the Archbishop of Paris. The stair adjoining the monument descends to a good swim- ming-bath in the Seine (p. 22). On the opposite side, Quai de Conti 5, is a gilded inscription to this effect : 'Souvenir historique. Vempereur Napoleon Bona- parte, officier d'artillerie sortant, en 1781, de Vecole de Brienne^ demeurait au cinquieme etage de cette maison: In the 16th cent. Tabarin , a celebrated satirical poet of the day , was in the habit of reciting his verses on this bridge, in consequence of which circumstance popular rhymes are to this day termed l pont-neufs\ — At the extremity of the island. 12, BIBUOTHiiQUE NATION ALB. 1 09 opposite the Pont Neuf and in the rear of Notre Dame, is situated La Morgue (open daily except Sundays, 8 — 6 o'clock), re- cently rebuilt, where corpses of unknown persons who have met their death in the river or otherwise are exposed to view during three days. The bodies are placed on marble slabs, kept cool by a stream of water; their clothing is suspended above them. If not recognised within the prescribed period, they are removed and buried at the public expense. On an average 240 male and 50 female corpses are thus annually exposed. This painful spec- tacle daily attracts numerous visitors , especially of the lower classes. Notre-Dame, also situated in the Cite island, see p. 113. 12. Bibliotheque Rationale. Place Louvs. Fontaine Moliere. This magnificent collection is open daily, 10 — 4 o'clock, ex- cept on Sundays, holidays, and a fortnight at Easter, to those who desire to study in the reading-rooms. Ordinary visitors are not admitted, except to the collection of medals (p. 110). The old building in which the library is preserved is undergoing a gradual restoration and extension. The entrance is in the Rue Richelieu 58, adjoining the small Place Louvois, in which the Grand-Opera formerly stood. After the assassination of the Due de Berry by Louvel, which occurred here Feb. 13th, 1820, as the audience was quitting the opera, the building was demolished, and the construction, of a l chapelle expiatoire commenced on the site. This was still unfinished when the events of 1830 occurred, after which a Fountain from designs by Visconti was erected on the spot; the four supporting figures represent the four principal rivers of France , the Seine, the Loire, the Saone, and the Garonne. In 1859 the Place was furnished with trees and converted into a square. The Library, once Bibliotheque du Rot or Roy ale, in 1792. and 1848 Nationale, under Napoleon I. and Napoleon III. Jmperiale, and since 1870 again Bibliotheque Nationale, is probably the most extensive in the world. The vast building which contains it occupies a considerable portion of four streets, in front the Rue Richelieu, in the rear the Rue Yivienne, N. the Rue Colbert, and S. the Rue Neuve des Petits Champs. Part of the building, which is a gloomy and unsuitable re- ceptacle for so noble a collection, was once the palace of Cardinal Mazarin (d. 1661), the all-powerful minister of Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. A staircase to the r. iu the court ascends to the library. no 12. 1UBLIOTHEQUE NAT! ON ALE. The number of books (3,000,000) and MSS. (150,000) is so immense, that the book-cases containing them would, if placed in a continuous line, extend to a distance of upwards of 16 M. Most of the books are copies of the rarest and choicest editions, and are carefully bound. The Geographical Collection contains about 300,000 maps, plans, etc.; the topography of Paris alone occupies 56 large folios. The Collection of Engravings , to the r. on the ground-floor, consists of 8000 vols, and upwards of 1,300,000 plates. The present edifice has been found totally inadequate for so vast a collection, and is now undergoing extensive alter- ations. According to the organisation of Aug. 23rd, 1858, the library contains four different departments : 1 . Departement des Livres Imprimes, Cartes et Collections Geographiques ; 2. Departement des Manuscrits; 3. Departement des Medailles et Antiques; 4. De- partement des Estampes. Since 1853 upwards of 50,000 fr. have been annually expended in the formation of catalogues alone. Eleven vols, of the new catalogue are completed, nine of them containing a list of works on the history of France, and two con- taining medical works. Foreign savants receive every possible attention from the librarians. Those who desire to consult a book or MS. must address an application , coupled with a recommendation from their ambassador, to M. l'Administrateur General, Directeur de la Bibliotheque Nationale, 8 Rue Neuve des Petits Champs. The permit when obtained must be shown at the office of the entrance-hall, where the applicant gives the official a slip of paper with the name of the work required, and also bearing his name and address. He then waits until the book is brought by an attendant. Every department contains Salles de Travail, accessible to persons provided with cards of admission. There is also a Salle Publique de Lecture (entrance Rue Colbert 3) in the Departement des Livres Imprime's, to which all persons above the age of 16 have free access from 10 to 4 o'clock, also on Sundays. The Cabinet des Medailles et Antiques is open to the public on Tuesdays and Fridays from 10 to 3 o'clock (entrance in the Rue Richelieu, the door beyond the fire-engine station when approached from the Boulevarts , the first when approached from the Palais Royal; visitors ring). It contains a valuable collection of Coins, Medals (200,000), and Antiques, interesting Greek, Roman, and Egyptian curiosities, Babylonian cylindrical blocks of marble inscribed with cuneiform characters , probably employed as amulets, a vast number of seals, cameos, ornaments, vases, richly decorated weapons, etc. The arrangement of the collection is still incomplete. In the walls of the entrance-hall and stair- case Roman inscriptions are inserted. To the 1. is the principal 12. BIBMOTHEQUE NATIONALE. Ill saloon, near the middle of which is a glass cabinet containing the Apotheosis of Augustus, the gem of the entire* collection and the largest cameo in the world, the sardonyx "being nearly i ft. in diameter; among the fifteen different figures are Augustus, iEneas , Julius Csesar , Drusus, Tiberius, Livia , Agrippina, etc. It was formerly preserved in the treasury of the Sainte Chapelle (p. 105), and was erroneously believed to represent a triumphal procession of Joseph in Egypt. A smaller cameo represents Germanicus borne off by an eagle (Apotheosis of Germanicus). For full particulars the visitor should consult the Catalogue ge- neral et raisonne des pierres gravees (not, however, including the medals) de la Bibliotheque Nationale, which may be purchased in the room for fr. In a glass cabinet are preserved some interesting relics from the tomb of king Childeric (d. 481) in the church of St. Brice at Tournai in Belgium, which was discovered and opened in 1655. A number of small silver images are also preserved here, together with 70 other relics , discovered at Berthouville , in the depart- ment of the Eure , dating from the period of the first Roman emperors, and believed to have appertained to the treasury of the temple of Mercury at Canetum. The agate cup of the Ptolemies, formerly in the treasury of St. Denis, with carved representations of the mysteries of Ceres and Bacchus. Vases of embossed silver. A Roman golden dish, on the margin the family of the Antonines. A golden sacrificial cup, discovered in 1744 near Rennes in Bretagne , representing the drinking contest of Bacchus and Hercules, on the margin 16 golden medallions of emperors and empresses. A vase of the 15th cent, with an inlaid cross. A small bust of Achilles. A silver disc, 26 inches in diameter, erroneously termed the l Bouclier de Scipiori ; the reliefs represent the abduction of Bri- se'is by the messengers of Agamemnon. This relic was discovered in the Rhone near Avignon in 1658. The so-called i Bouclier d'AnnibaV is undoubtedly a modern imitation. The 'Monument Babylonien\ an oval meteorite engraved with cuneiform and other characters, Was found near Bagdad. Opposite to the principal saloon is the Salle du Due de Luynes, exclusively devoted to objects presented to the library by the duke, a most zealous promoter of antiquarian research. It con- tains a number of interesting ancient coins. At the upper end of the Rue Richelieu which extends between the Boulevart des Italiens and the Rue de Rivoli , a distance of about 3 / 4 M., at the corner of the street, is situated the Fontaine Moliere, erected to the memory of the celebrated dramatist Mo- licre, who died in 1673 in the house opposite (No. 34). The monument, which was placed here in 1844 at an expense of 168,000 fr., is in the Renaissance style, from designs by Yisconti. 1 12 13. CONSERVATOIRE DES ARTS ET METIERS. Moliere is represented in a sitting posture, in an attitude of meditation ; belbw are two figures emblematic of the humorous and serious character of his plays , furnished with scrolls on which the names of all Moliere's works are inscribed in chronological order. Inscription: A Moliere ne a Paris 75 Janvier 1622 et mort a Paris 17 Fevrier 1673. Souscription Nationale. 13. Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers. This establishment is situated in the Rue St. Martin, No. 292, in the vicinity of the Porte St. Martin, facing the new Square des Arts et Metiers. Admission on Sund. and Thursd. , 10 — 4 o'clock, gratis; on Mond., Tuesd., Frid., and Sat., 1 fr. A copious and instructive catalogue may be purchased for l 1 ^ fr. The * Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, the Polytechnic of Paris, is probably the most extensive collection ^ of the kind in Europe. The edifice which contains it once belonged to the wealthy Benedictine Abbey of St. Martin des Champs, secularised in 1789. A portal erected in 1848 — 50 bears an inscription, on the side next to the court, which records that the abbey was founded in 1060, that the establishment of the 'conservatoire' was decreed by the Convention in 1794, and that the collections were commenced in this edifice in 1798. The lectures, which are public, embrace geometry, mechanics, chemistry, physical science, the arts of spinning, weaving, dyeing, and printing , natural history as connected with commerce , the laws relating to commerce, etc.. The collections are divided into 24 sections , the various ob- jects being arranged as far as possible in their appropriate order. The stone stair in the court ascends to the principal entrance. Ground Floor. N. Wing (1. of the entrance) : French and foreign weights and measures , most of them genuine specimens obtained by the French government in exchange for similar ob- jects; geometry and surveying ; watch-manufacture. — S. Wing: Metallurgy, mining, smelting ; spinning, weaving, dyeing, print- ing in colours ; agriculture, implements, grain , models of fruits and vegetables, cattle and horse breeding, etc. — Traversing the saloon in which fruit is exhibited, the visitor reaches what was formerly the Chapel, now containing numerous machines of va- rious kinds, which are set in motion by steam on Sundays and Thursdays. First Floor. In the centre: Carriages, railways, steam- boats. ■ — N. Wing: Hydraulic machines, wind and water mills; artizans' tools and workshops ; geometry ; glass and pottery ma- nufacture (fayence, porcelain, enamel) ; chemicals, printing, litho- graphy, engraving; paper-making; heating and lighting apparatus, acoustics, optics. — S. Wing: Steam engines ; smaller machines ; 14. NOTRE DAMP:. 113 sugar-refining, brick-making, etc.; scientific instruments, electric telegraphs; astronomical instruments; gas-apparatus, etc. What was once the ^Refectory of the ancient abbey, a beauti- tul Gothic structure erected about the middle of the 13th cent, by Montereau, the architect of the Sainte Chapelle (p. 105), has recently been judiciously fitted up as a Library (20,000 vols.). The vaulted ceiling is supported by seven lofty and. graceful columns, the capitals and bases of which are gilded. The library is accessible for students only, from 10 to 3 o'clock daily, except Monday, when it may be inspected by the public. The Square des Arts et Metiers, in which the new Theatre de la Gaitt is situated, is a pleasant garden opposite the Con- servatoire , and bounded on the other side by the Boulevart de Sebastopol. In the centre of the Square rises a lofty column surmounted by a Victory (by Crauk), with a pedestal bearing the names of the Crimean battles. The neighbouring church of St. Nicolas des Champs possesses a Gothic portal, but the interior contains nothing worthy of note. St. Merri, at the S. end of the street, see p. 116. 14. Churches on the Right Bank of the Seine. Notre Dame, St. Germain VAuxerrois, St. Merri, St. Eustache, St. Roch, Madeleine, Notre Dame de Lorette, St. Vincent de Paul, St. Jean Baptiste, St. Eugene. With a few exceptions the ecclesiastical buildings of Paris are by no means worthy of the metropolis of a great kingdom, over which a long succession of 'most Christian' monarchs have reigned , and are far inferior to the churches in many other French and Belgian cities. Of the 41 parish-churches of Paris, therefore, it will not be necessary to enumerate more than the following : 1 . Notre Dame, 2. St. Germain des Pres , 3. St. Germain VAuxerrois, 4. St. Merry, all in the Gothic style; 5. St. Etienne da Mont and 6. St. Eustache, in the style of the Renaissance; 7. St. Sul- pice, and 8. St. Roch, in the modern Romanesque style of the time of Louis XV.; 9. Madeleine, in the Grecian style, which was in vogue during the empire; 10. Notre Dame de Lorette, and 11. St. Vincent de Paul, in the latest Composite style; 12. Ste. Clotilde, 13. St. Jean Baptiste, and 14. St. Eugene, modern Gothic. Nos. 2, 5, 7, and 12 are situated on the 1. bank of the Seine (p. 174). These churches are open the whole day; even when the principal entrance is closed, access may be obtained by a side-door. *Notre Dame de Paris, situated in the Cite island (p. 103), was commenced in the 12th, and completed in the 14th cent. The dimensions of this fine Gothic structure are as follows; length 416 ft., width at the transept 153 ft., height of vaulting 109 ft.. Bjedekek. Paris. 3rd Edition. . $ 114 14. NOTRE DAME width of W. front 136 ft. , height of towers 217 ft. , height of new spire 298 ft. The interior consists of a nave and choir with four aisles and lateral chapels. The pillars of the nave support pointed arches, resting upon decorated capitals. The three magnifi- cent rose-windows contain the sole remnant of the ancient stained glass of the cathedral, coeval with the foundation. — The exterior as well as interior of this celebrated cathedral of the archbishops are somewhat disappointing. The situation is unfavourable, and the sacred edifice itself has been sadly marred at different periods by 'embellishments', as well as by the storms of the Revolution, during which period it was converted into a 'Temple of Reason'. The disturbances of Feb. loth, 1831, occasioned the total ruin of the Archiepiscopal Palace ' on the S. side of the church , in consequence of which that building has been entirely removed. The most beautiful portion of the cathedral is the richly de- corated W. Facade (restored subsequent to 1848) , with its three portals, each of which forms a succession of receding arches, dating from the commencement of the 13th cent. The line rose-window measures 36 ft. in diameter. The sculptures of the central por- tal represent the Last Judgment. The N. portal, by which the cathedral is usually entered, is dedicated to the Virgin, the S. portal to St. Anne, and each is decorated with appropriate sculpture. Above the doors are the statues of 28 French kings, from Childebert 1. to Philipp II. (Galerie des Rois) , which ori- ginally dated from the 13th cent., were destroyed with the other sculptures in 1793, and have been lately restored. The interior is now perfectly simple. It was much disfigured by a gaudy blue ceiling with golden stars on the occasion of the baptism of the Imperial Prince. This, however, has since been removed. The chapels are now in process of being redecorated, but in somewhat questionable taste. The Nave, which contains nothing particularly worthy of note, is separated by a screen from the Choir , which is at present undergoing a complete restoration. Cards of admission (50 c.) to the choir and sacristy are pro- cured from the verger at the entrance in the r. aisle (if he is absent, visitors ring). The recently constructed Sacristy or Treasury, contains magnificent pontifical robes, most of them of modern date, presented by Napoleon I., Louis XVIII. and Louis Philippe ; mon- strances and other ecclesiastical vessels, croziers, mitres, crosses, etc., many of them gorgeously decorated with precious stones. The lofty windows are filled with stained glass portraits of arch- bishops of Paris and scenes from their lives ; among others the death of Archbishop Affre (p. 40). The bullet which caused his death, and a cast of his features are shown. Here, too, are preserved the portrait and robes of his successor Archbishop Sibour, who was stabbed Jan. 3rd, 1857, in St. Etienne du Mont in the pre- [4. ST. GERMAIN L'AUXERROJS. 115 sence of a vast concourse of worshippers by a priest named Verger. Contiguous to the sacristy is situated the picturesque Cour da Chapitre, a 'joujou gothique', in the centre of which stands a small fountain in the form of a shrine, surmounted by eight seated figures of bishops. In the 3rd Chapel a monument of Archbishop Affre by Debay, with his last words: 'Puisse mon sang etre le dernier verse". The N. Chapels of the Choir contain two tine monuments; one to the memory of the archbishop, Cardinal de Belloy (d. 1806 ), a. *growp in marble, representing the aged prelate in his 99th year giving alms to a poor woman and child, executed by De- seine ; the other to the memory of the archbishop Juigni (d. 1811). The exterior of the wall which encloses the choir is decorated with 23 remarkable reliefs in stone, dating from the middle of the 14th century, representing scenes from the life of the Saviour, the figures painted. The ascent to the *Tower is on the N. W. side. A flight of 63 steps conducts the visitor to the office of the custodian (20 c), whence 305 steps more will bring him to the platform of the tower ; about half-w ay to the summit the great bell is usually shown (for which a trifling gratuity is expected). With the ex- ception of the Tour St. Jacques, this is probably the finest point o]' view in Paris, as it commands a prospect of the course of tlie Seine with its numerous bridges. The environs of the church have moreover been rendered more attractive by the magnificent improvements of the late regime. The long building on the bank of the river, on the S. W. side of the cathedral, is the Hotel Dieu, the most ancient hospital in Paris, and probably the oldest in Europe, having been founded by Clovis II. in 660. *St. Germain l'Auxerrois, situated opposite the colonnade of the Louvre, on the E. side, once the church frequented by the royal family, belongs in its present form to the close of the Loth cent., when the purity of the Gothic style began to be lost in richness of decoration. The interior consists of a nave and a double row of aisles, surrounded by chapels. The remarkable lowness of the roof gives it a depressed character. From the tower of this church once resounded the pre- concerted signal for the massacre of St. Bartholomew. During the whole of that night of horror the bell unremittingly tolled its funeral peal. On Feb. 14th, 1831, the anniversary of the murder of the Due de Berry, a solemn mass was being here performed to his memory by the partizans of the Bourbons, when the populace forced their way into the sacred edifice, ejected the priests, and compelled the authorities to keep the church closed for a season. 8* 116 14. ST. EXIST ACHE. It was subsequently employed as an office for the mayor of the 4th Arrondissement, but was restored to its sacred uses in 1838. The entire decoration of the interior is, therefore, of very re- cent origin. The W. front of the church consists of a Porch, from which the church is entered by three portals. The panes of the porch is adorned with frescoes on a gold ground, by Mottez. The cen- tral fresco represents Christ on the Cross, surrounded by saints (among them the Maid of Orleans); those on each side of the latter represent the Sermon on the Mount, and the Mount of Olives ; those over the lateral portals, Jesus in the Temple, and the Descent of the Holy Ghost. Of the frescoes in the interior of the church, that which re- presents the Descent from the Cross, by Guichard (1845), in the S. transept, especially merits inspection. The pictures, however, are seen in an unfavourable light, owing to the sombre stained glass windows, which represent angels and saints, and are works of no great merit. The *Basin for sacred water in the S. transept, a group in marble designed by Madame de Lamartine and executed by Jouf- froy, merits particular attention. It is surmounted by a beauti- fully sculptured group of three angels around a cross. A chapel of the choir contains monuments in marble to the chancellor Etienne d'Aligre (d. 1635) and his son (d. 1674). The contiguous chapel contains a figure in marble of an angel praying. The angel of the Last Judgment on the pediment in front is by Marochetti. With a view to give uniformity to the aspect of the Louvre colonnade, the new Mairie of the first arrondissement has been erected in the same style as the church of St. Germain l'Auxer- rois, on the opposite side of the Place. The tower between the two was built simply to fill up the vacant space, a stop- gap which is said to have cost 2 million francs ! St. Merri (at the S. extremity of the Rue St. Martin, near the Rue de Rivoli), founded in 1520, and completed in 1612, possesses a remarkably fine portal in the florid Gothic style. The modern frescoes in the interior, by Lehmann, A. Duval, Chasse- riau (d. 1856), and Lepaulle, are well worthy of notice. The ad- joining convent was obstinately defended by insurgents against the troops of Louis Philippe, June 5th and 6th, 1832. *St. Eustache, at the S. extremity of the Rue Montmartre, with a nave and double row of aisles, is a strange mixture of degenerate Gothic and modern style. Its erection occupied al- together upwards of a century, 1532 — 1637; the W. portal, with its columns of the Ionic and Doric orders, was commenced in 1752, and has only recently been completed. The proportions of 14. ST. EDSTACHE. 117 the interior are graceful and lofty, and produce a good general effect. The choir was struck by several projectiles during the bom- bardments of 1870 — 71, and seriously injured. Part of the edifice near the clock caught fire on one of these occasions, but the flames were speedily extinguished. The chapels (with the arms of their founders over the arches) are richly and tastefully gilded, and adorned with large *Frescoes. Right side. 1st. Chapel of the city of Paris. 2nd. Counts of Castille. 3rd. Family of Montescot; ancient frescoes recently revived by Basset. 4th. Chantereau-Lestang ; frescoes by Gourlier. 5th. Gentien; frescoes by Magime. 6th. Puysieux and Armenonville ; frescoes by La Riviere. 7th. Rouille and Le Couteulx; frescoes by Vauchelet. Sth. Machault; frescoes by Lazerges. 9th. Duval and Lesecq; ancient frescoes revived by Cornut. 10th. Dedicated to Sculpture and Painting; frescoes by Pits. 11th. Richelieu; frescoes by Damery and Biennourry . 12th. Duke of Orleans; frescoes by Signol. Left side. 1st. Chapel. Penthievre ; frescoes by Glaize. 2nd. Nicolay; frescoes by Marquis. 3rd. Bullion; frescoes by Riesener. 4th. Fiesco and Strozzi ; frescoes of the 16th cent., revived by Basset. 5th. Lepretre, dedicated to St. Eustache, whose relics are pre- served in this chapel. The frescoes, by Le Henaff, represent scenes from the life of the saint, who, under the name of Pla- cidus, was a Roman general under the emperor Titus. 6th. Menardeau. 7th. Roillart; ^frescoes by Felix Barrias, representing scenes from the life of St. Louis. Sth. Brice; *frescoes by Pichon. 9th. Bourlon ; frescoes by Serrus. 10th. Valois; ancient frescoes, revived by Basset. 11th. Epernon; ^frescoes by Delorme. 12th. Colbert; frescoes by Bezard. This chapel contains the remains of Colbert (d. 1683), the able minister of Louis XIV. ; the monument consists of a sarcophagus of black marble, with a figure in white marble of Colbert in a kneeling posture. The frescoes of the Chapel of the Virgin are by Couture. The sculptures in marble which adorn the High-altar are of admirable workmanship. The organ, which has twice been destroyed, and has lately been reconstructed by Cavalie, is also an object of in- terest. St. Eustache is one of the most frequented churches in Paris, especially on festivals, on account of the superior music. 118 14. ST. ROCH. The large space on the S. E. side of the church is occupied by the *Halles Centrales (p. 21), the most extensive market in Paris, especially for provisions of every kind. St. Roch, Rue St. Honore 296, near the N. side of the garden of the Tuileries, erected in 1(353 — 1740 in the degraded taste of that epoch, possesses a portal in the Corinthian and Doric styles. On the broad flight of steps by which the church is approached, on the 13th of Vendemiaire, in the 4th year (Oct. 3rd, 1795), Bonaparte placed the cannons which he fired upon the Royalists who were advancing against the Convention, and thus checked the progress of the counter-revolution. The church was restored in 1865. The interior possesses little worthy of note. The 5th chapel to the 1. contains a monument to the memory of the Abbe de I'Epee, the celebrated teacher of the deaf and dumb. It con- sists of a sarcophagus with a bust, to which two children are gratefully raising their eyes, and bears the inscription: Viro admodum mirabili, sacerdotl de I'Epee, qui fecit exemplo Salva- toris mutos loqui, cives Galliae hoc monumentum dedicarunt. Na- tus an. 1712, mortuus an. 1789. (To the remarkable man the Abbe de I'Epee, who after the example of the Saviour caused the dumb to speak, the citizens of France have dedicated this monu- ment.) Beneath is the alphabet of signs used by the dumb. Adjacent to the monument is a black marble tablet with the in- scription: A V Abbe de l'Epee les sourds-muets suedois reconnais- sants (comp. p. 174). The stucco reliefs in 14 compartments, with which the cha- pels of the choir are adorned, represent the Passion. The third of these chapels contains a picture by A. Scheffer, representing St. Francis of Sales conducting a weary wanderer through the snow. The chapel of the Virgin behind the high altar contains stained glass representations of (to the 1.) St. Denis the Areopagite, and (to the r.) Denis Affre, the archbishop who was killed at the barricades; and two oil paintings: (to the 1.) Jesus casting the money changers out of the temple, by Thomas (1822), and (to the r.) the Raising of the daughter of Jairus, by Delorme (1817). The S. chapels of the nave contain several monuments of emi- nent persons: those of Cardinal Dubois (d. 1723), minister of the Regent Orleans, and the participant of his shameless orgies (p. 51 ), executed by Coustou ; the Due de Crequi (d. 1687), Marshal of France, general in the German campaigns of Louis XIV., by Coyzevox and Coustou; the artist Mignard (d. 1695); the land- scape-gardener Le Notre (d. 1700). St. Roch is probably the most richly endowed of the churches of Paris; the ecclesiastical festivals are celebrated here in the most sumptuous style; music admirable. *La Madeleine (visitors admitted after ! o'clock), or the church 14. LA MADELEINE. 119 of St. Mary Magdalene, situated at the W. extremity of the boule- varts, in the vicinity of the Place de la Concorde, was affected during its construction by all the vicissitudes of the history of modern France. The foundations were laid in 1764; the revo- lution found the edifice uncompleted, and the works were suspended. Napoleon, while on his route to Tilsit, Dec. 2nd, 1806, issued a decree, commanding the building to be converted into a 'Temple of Glory', and to be furnished with the inscription: Uempereur Napoleon aux soldats de la grande armee. The 5th article of the decree was to the following effect: 'Tous les ans, aux anni- versaires des batailles d'Austerlitz et d'lena, le monument sera illumine, et il sera donne un concert precede d'un discours sur les vertus necessaires au soldat, et d'un eloge de ceux qui pe'rirent sur le champ de bataille dans ces journees memorables. Dans les discours et odes il est expressement de'fendu de faire mention de l'empereur.' The destination of the edifice was altered by Louis XVIII., who proposed to convert the 'Temple of Glory' into an expia- tory church to the memory of Louis XVI., Louis XVII., Marie Antoinette, and Madame Elisabeth. The construction of the church was again interrupted by the July revolution, and was not finally completed till 1842. The entire sum expended amounted to 13 million francs (520,000 I.). In May, 1871, the insurgents had constructed one of their most formidable barricades across the Rue Royale, opposite to, and within a short distance of the Madeleine. The appalling scene enacted here on May 22nd and 23rd baffles description. The houses in the Rue Royale which escaped destruction by fire were literally riddled with shells and bullets, but the church, owing to its massive construction, suffered comparatively little. On the 23rd three hundred insurgents, driven from the barricade, sought refuge in the sacred edifice ; the troops soon forced an entrance, and suffered not one of their victims to escape alive t This magnificent structure stands in an open space, upon a basement about 20 ft. in height. Its form is that of a Grecian temple, 350 ft. in length, 147 ft. in breadth, surrounded by Corinthian columns 53 ft. in height, of which 14 support the pediment of the S. front, 15 are ranged along each side, and 8 form the N. portico. The niches in the walls contain statues of Saints especially revered in France, commencing to the r. with the Angel Gabriel, and terminating on thel. with the Angel Michael, all by modern sculptors. The inscription on the S. front is: D. O. M. sub invoc. S. M. Magdalenae. To the Almighty God, through the invocation of St. Mary Magdalene). The tympanum contains a high relief of vast dimensions, by Lemaire, representing the Last Judgment, several of the figures 120 14. NOTRE DAME DE LORETTE. in which were injured by cannon-balls during the conflict above mentioned. The entire length is 134 ft., height in the centre of the pediment 26 ft., figure of the Saviour in the centre 19 ft. high. The church is approached by a flight of 28 steps, occupying the entire breadth of the edifice. The bronze *Doors, 35 ft. in height and 17^2 i& breadth, are adorned with illustrations of the ten commandments, designed by Triquetti. The interior, the walls and floor of which are of marble, forms a single spacious hall, lighted by cupolas, and sumptuously gilded and decorated with paintings. The Chapelle des Manages, to the r. of the entrance, contains a group in marble by Pradier, representing the nuptials of the Virgin; the Chapelle des Fonts, or baptismal chapel, to the 1., is adorned with a group, by Rude, representing Christ and John the Baptist in the Jordan. The light is unfortunately insufficient to display these fine groups to advantage. Each wall is divided by four piers, forming six chapels, which are decorated with Statues of their different patron saints, and Pictures representing scenes from the life of Mary Magdalene. Right side. 1st Chapel, Ste. Amelie, by Bra, Mary Mag- dalene's conversion, by Schnetz; 2nd Chapel, the Saviour, by Duret, Magdalene at the foot of the cross, by Bouchot; 3rd Chapel, Ste. Clotilde, by Barye, Magdalene in the wilderness praying with angels, by Abel de Pujol (d. 1861). Left side. 1st Chapel, St. Vincent de Paul, by Raggi, the Supper of Bethany, and Magdalene washing the feet of Christ, by Couder; 2nd Chapel, the Virgin, by Seurre, Angel announcing the Resurrection to Magdalene, by Coignet; 3rd Chapel, St. Augustin, by Etex, Death of Magdalene, by Signol. The *High Altar consists of an admirable group in marble by Marochetti, representing Mary Magdalene borne into Paradise by two angels. Beyond it, the semicircular ceiling of the choir is adorned with a fine fresco by Ziegler, representing the gradual propagation of Christianity; beneath the figure of Christ, to the right is St. Louis kneeling beside the Magdalene, Godfrey de Bouillon with the oriflamme, Richard Coeur de Lion, the Doge Dandolo and others ; also a scene from the Grecian war of libe- ration ; to the left, Charlemagne, Pope Alexander III. blessing Frederick Barbarossa, the Maid of Orleans, Raphael, Michael Angelo, Dante, etc. In the centre, Henry IV. entering the Church of Rome, Louis XIII., Richelieu, Napoleon I. receiving the crown from Pope Pius VII. When the principal door and gate are closed, access may- be obtained by the entrances on the E. or W. side of the church. *Notre Dame de Lorette, at the N. extremity of the Rue Laffitte, in the vicinity of the Boulevart des Italiens, was erected 14. ST. VINCENT DE PAUL. 121 in 1823 — 3? in the style of an early Christian Basilica, and dedi- cated to l Beatae Mariae virgini Lauretanae, as the inscription informs us. The interior, with its gaudy decorations, rather re- sembles a ball or concert-room than an ecclesiastical edifice. Some of the frescoes which cover the walls are by eminent artists; At the extremities of each of the two aisles are chapels ; that to the r. is the Baptistery, frescoes by Blondel; at the opposite end, Chapel of the Eucharist, frescoes by Perin; on the other side, Burial Chapel, frescoes by Blondel; at the opposite end, Chapel for Marriages, frescoes by Perin. The choir is de- corated with two large paintings , to the r. the Presentation in the Temple, by Heim, to the 1. Jesus teaching in the Temple, by Drolling. Beneath the windows, and above the columns and entablature , the walls are adorned with frescoes representing scenes from the life of the Virgin. The service is here con- ducted with great pomp : singing and music very fine. If the traveller follow the Rue St. Lazare opposite the N. side of the church in the direction of the Station de l'Ouest, he will reach the Eglise de la Trinite, a modern example of the rich late Renaissance style , completed in 1866 by the architect Baru (305 ft. long, 101 ft. wide). Above the vestibule of the principal facade rises a tower upwards of 200 ft. in height. The interior contains paintings by Barrias, Ernile Levy , Delauhey) etc. , and sculptures by Maillet and Cavelier. At the N. extremity of the Boulevart Malesherbes , not far from the Chapelle Expiatoire, stands the church of St. Augustine, another modern edifice, designed by Baltard, in a peculiar style of architecture, Romanesque combined with Renaissance. Over the centre rises a dome. Paintings in the interior by Signol and Brisset, sculptures by Cavelier, Schrader, etc. *St. Vincent de Paul, in the Place Lafayette, in the vicinity of the Station du Nord , erected in 1824 — 44 j is also in the Basilica style, but a more successful specimen than Notre Dame de Lorette. Length 259, breadth 115 ft. The church is approached by a broad flight of steps , resem- bling a spacious amphitheatre. On each side of the Ionic portico rise lofty square towers. The pediment of the portico contains a relief by Lemaire, representing St. Vincent de Paul, the guar- dian of foundlings ; before him are Sisters of Charity in a kneel- ing posture, to the r. and 1. Religion and Charity. The iron gates of the principal entrance are ornamented with represen- tations of the twelve Apostles. This church consists of a nave with a double row of aisles, of which the two external ones are divided into chapels: the remain- ing two are under the same roof with the nave and separated from it by Ionic columns of imitation porphyry. Over the aisles 122 14. PROTESTANT CHURCHES. are galleries, supported by columns of the Corinthian order. The nave and choir are lighted from above, the aisles by side- windows filled with stained glass by Marechal , representing dif- ferent saints. The interior is gilded and painted throughout in the most gorgeous style. The chapels , as well as the choir , are separated from the est of the church by richly gilded railings. The stalls of the choir and the rest of the woodwork of the interior are elaborately carved. The frieze is adorned with a series of figures of saints, apostles, prophets, martyrs, and popes, painted by Flandrin (d. 1864), the semi-cupola of the choir with a group representing the Saviour surrounded by saints, painted by Picot. St. Vincent de Paul is situated near the N. extremity of Paris, in one of the most elevated situations in the city. From this point to the Barriere d'Enfer, at the opposite extremity of the town, is a distance of 4^2 M. The nearest lines of omnibus communication are those which run W. through the Rue du Fau- bourg Poissonniere, and E. through the Rue du Faubourg St. Denis. Visitors to the church of St. Vincent de Paul will probably find the omnibuses- to the Station du Nord the most convenient of the public conveyances. The open space in front of the church and adjoining the Hopital Lariboissiere (erected in 1847, and deriving its appellation from the munificent bequest of a countess of that name), was the scene of an obstinate conflict between the troops of the guard and the in urgents in June, 1848. Contiguous to the hospital is situated the magnificent new Station du Nord. *St. Jean Baptiste, situated outside the former Barriere de Belleville, on the most elevated ground in the city, a beautiful specimen of modern Gothic, was erected by the architect Lassus (d. 1857), and consecrated in 1858. The central bas-relief above the entrance is illustrative of the life and death of John the Baptist. The lofty spires are 192 ft. in height, the church itself 266 ft. long, 79 ft. broad, and 62 ft. high. The interior, which is cruciform, and consists of a nave and two aisles, is some- what bare and destitute of decoration: it is, however, proposed to adorn it with frescoes. St. Eugene, erected under Napoleon III., in the style of the 15th cent., from designs by Boileau, is situated in the Faubourg Poissonniere , on the site of the former Garde Meuble. The walls alone are constructed of stone, the decorations of iron. The interior is gaudily painted, and the windows filled with stained glass of no artistic merit. Protestant Churches (Temples Protestants). Calvinist: UOra- toire, Rue St. Honore 147, opposite the N. entrance of the Louvre. — Ste. Marie (formerly Eglise de la Visitation des Filles Ste. Marie), Rue St. Antoine 216, near the Place de la Bastille. L5. I'KKK LACHAISE. 123 — Pentemont, Rue de Grenelle St. Germain 100, near the Ministere de rinte'rieur, on the 1. bank of the Seine. The first two of these churches were conceded to Protestant congregations in 1802, the last during the reign of Louis Philippe. The Eglise Evangelique, Rue de la Yictoire, corner of the Rue St. Georges , is a French reformed church independent of the state. Service in all the above at 11. 15 a. m. Lutheran (Confession d' Augsbourg) : Temple des Carmes Bil- lettes, Rue des Billettes 16, to the N. of the Hotel de Ville. Service at 12 in French, at 2 in German. — Temple de la Re- demption, Rue Chauchat 5 , in the vicinity of the Grand Ope'ra, fitted up as a place of worship in 1853. Service at 11. English Churches. For trustworthy information, visitors are recommended to consult the Stranger's Diary of the Saturday number of Galignani's Messenger. Jt is, however, improbable -that any alteration will be made in the hours of service sub- joined. Chapel of the Embassy, Rue d'Aguesseau 5, Faubourg St. Ho- jiore', near the English Embassy, services at 11. 30, 3. 30, and 7. 30. — Marbceuf Chapel, Avenue Marboeuf 10, Champs Elysees ; service i at. 11 , 3. 30, and 7. 4;"). — English Chapel (Congre- gational) Rue de la Madeleine 17; services at 11. 30 and 7. 30. Engl. Rom. Catholic Church, 50 Avenue de la Reine Hor- tense, mass at 7, 8, 9, and 10, on Sundays, sermons at 10 and 3. Protestant American Chapel, Rue de Berry 21: services at 11. 15 and 3. 30. — American Episcopal Church, Rue de la Paix 7, services at 11. 30 and 3. 30. Church of Scotland : Chapel of the Oratoire, Rue de Rivoli 160; services at 11 and 3. Wesleyan Chapels: Rue Roque'pine 4, adjoining No. 41 Boule- vart Malesherbes , near the Madeleine. Service on Sundays at 11. 30 a. m. and 7. 30 p. in., on Wednesdays at 7. 30 p. m. — Also at Asniores, near the railway-station. 15. Pere Lachaise. Paris possesses only three cemeteries: to the S. Mont Par- nasse (p. 178), to the N. Montmartr e (p. 136), and to the E. Pere Lachaise. These would afford a space totally in- adequate for the 70 — 80 interments (two-thirds of the number are those of children under 7 years of age) which are the daily average, were not the remains of the poorer classes (two-thirds of the total number) committed to the Fosses communes, or large pits containing 40 — 50 coffins. Permission to preserve a grave undisturbed for 5 years only (concession temporaire) must 'be purchased of the municipality for the sum of 50 fr. A private burial place (concession a perpetuite) may be secured for 500 fr.. 124 15. PfeRE LACHAISE. tor a child under 7 years of age for half that sum; these spaces are, however, extremely limited (20 sq. ft.). One fourth of the purchase money must be paid immediately, the remainder within 10 years, on the expiry of which, in default of payment, all claim to the burial-place is forfeited. AH burials within the precincts of the Department of the Seine are undertaken by the Entreprise des Pompes Funtbres, a company which enjoys the monopoly of conducting funerals, the charges being regulated by tariff, and varying from 18 fr. 75 c. to 7148 fr. The fee of the officiating clergyman is not included in these charges. Two chaplains, who each receive a stipend of 1500 fr. , are attached to each, cemetery, their office being the gratuitous performance of the burial-service for the poor. The most celebrated and extensive of these cemeteries is Ptre Lachaise, so called from having formerly belonged to La- chaise , the Jesuit confessor of Louis XIV. , who possessed a country residence on the site of the present chapel. His house formed the nucleus of the power of his order in France at that period. In 1804 the ground, upwards of 40 (at the present day 200) acres in extent, was laid out as a cemetery. On .March 30th, 1814 j it was the scene of a sharply contested action between Russian and French troops, in which the former vsere victorious. On May 20th , 1871 , the day before the Versailles troops effected their entrance into Paris , several hundred of the Com- munist insurgents took up their position in the cemetery, and planted several cannon near the tomb of the Due de Morny and the conspicuous Beaujour monument (see below), which latter served as their guard-house. A few days later the batteries of Montmartre opened their fire upon the cemetery , but seven or eight tombs only in all were destroyed, several more being in- jured. On the 27th the defenders of the cemetery , as well as those insurgents who had now been driven back from the bar- ricades of the Chateau d'Eau and the Place de la Bastille and sought refuge here , were compelled to abandon it. A number of them , however , were captured and shot. Near the wall of Charon ne, which bears numerous marks of bullets , 147 national guards, who had been taken prisoners at the ^barricades, were shot a few days later. These and numerous other victims of the Revolution were buried here in May and June, 1871. This cemetery serves as a burial-place for the inhabitants of the N.E. portion of Paris, that is, for all the quarters of the city on the r. bank of the Seine to the E. of the Porte St. Denis. The remains, however, of persons of distinction from other parts of the city generally repose in Pere Lachaise. The cemetery is situated on an eminence, at the N.E. ex- tremity of Paris , outside the former Barricre d'Aulnay, 3 / 4 M. 15. PJ2 RE LACHAISE. 125 from the Place de la Bastille, via the Rue de la Roquette, which diverges to the 1. from the Place Voltaire in the Boulevart of that name (monument situated there, see p. 41; S.W., towards the r., a glimpse is obtained of the July Column in the Place de la Bastille). As this spot is approached , indications of its proximity are observed in the numerous workshops of stone and marble-cutters (marbriers) , containing ready-made 'tributes' of every variety of design, whilst at each step women vending flowers and 'im- mortelles' for the decoration of the tombs are encountered. Near the E. extremity of the street are situated two strong, castellated edifices ; to the r. the Prison de la Roquette, in which condemned convicts are confined previously to their execution or conveyance to the galleys ; to the 1. the Prison des jeunes detenus. Between these two prisons is the public place of execution. The Prison de la Roquette was the scene of one of the foulest crimes of which the Communists of 1871 were guilty. On the evening of May 24th Ferre, the 'delegue a la surete" and soi-disant prefect of police who had on that, morning set fire to the Prefecture (p. 106), presented himself at the prison and announced the intention of the Commune to shoot six of their hostages, in retaliation, as was alleged, for the death of six Com- munists killed by the troops. The victims selected were Msgr. Darboy , the venerable archbishop of Paris , the President Bon- jean , the abbe Allard, the Pere Ducoudray , superior of the Ecole St. Genevieve , the Pere Clerc , and the abbe' Deguerry, cure of the Madeleine. These entirely innocent and unoffending persons were subjected to gross insult by the national guards, and conducted to the court in front of the infirmary of the prison, where they were immediately shot. Their bodies were then thrown into the 'fosse commune' at Pere Lachaise , from which however they were afterwards removed. Several other tragedies of a hardly less melancholy character were also enacted here during the Communist reign of terror. On May 26th and 27th thirty-seven persons imprisoned here by the Commune under various pretexts , were also shot , and on the night of the 26th twenty-eight gendarmes were conveyed from the Roquette to Pere Lachaise where they shared the same fate. On the afternoon of the 27th the miscreant Ferre' set at liberty all the convicts incarcerated in the Roquette and awaiting their transference to the galleys. Arms were placed in their hands, and they at once proceeded to massacre as many of the persons imprisoned by the Commune as came within their reach, among others seventy gendarmes. The approach of the troops, who were, now masters of the entire city , fortunately soon compelled the murderers to retreat, Had the contest been protracted a single L5. PERK IL A CHAISE day longer, all the surviving hostages of the Commune would in- fallibly have fallen victims to the same fiendish spirit of revenge. **Pere Lachaise. The gate of the cemetery bears the in- scription : Scio quod redemptor mens vivit et in novissimo die dc terra resurrecturus sum. — Spes illorum immortalitate plena est. — Qui credit in me, etiam si mortuus fuerit, vivet. In summer the cemetery is accessible from 6 a. m. till 7 p. m., ill spring, autumn, and winter from sunrise to sunset. Half-an- hour previously to the closing of the gates a bell is rung, and the custodians call out: L On ferme les portes\ allowing ample time for visitors to reach the gate in time. — It may here be observed that it is the universal custom for persons encounter- ing a funeral procession to remove their hats. — Guides (con- ducteurs) will be found at the small building to the r. on enter- ing, but their services may well be dispensed with, unless the visitor's time be very limited (fee 2 — 3 fr.). Even a superficial inspection of the most interesting monu- ments in the cemetery will occupy about 3 hours. At every step the visitor encounters names of European celebrity. The number of monuments, from the most magnificent mausoleum and obelisk down to the unpretending marble cross , amounts to upwards of 16,000. It has been computed that, since the cemetery was first opened , a sum exceeding 120 million francs has been expended in the erection of these tributes to the departed. The walks are well shaded with plantations, and the elevated situation commands an admirable view of the interminable la- byrinth of the city. The annexed plan will prove a valuable companion. The finest monuments are indicated by asterisks ; r. and 1. signify to the right and left of the path; the route which the stranger is recommended to pursue is marked out in the plan by means of arrows. The first monument of importance, perhaps the most interest- ing in the entire cemetery, situated a short distance to the r. of the main path, is that of ** Abe lard (d. 1142) and Heloise (d. 1164), whose romantic history is so well known. It consists of a rectangular chapel in the Gothic style of the 13th cent., formed out of the ruins of the celebrated abbey of Paraclete , of which Abelard was the founder and Heloise the first abbess. The chapel contains the sarcophagus, which Abelard himself caused to be constructed before his death. He is represented in a re- cumbent posture; by his side is the statue of Heloise. The in- scriptions relate to the ill-fated pair , and record the origin of the monument and its removal from the Muse'e des Petits Au- gustins (p. 162), where it was placed for a time, to its present position. The tomb is frequently decorated with wreaths of fresh flowers, the offerings of those who regard this as the shrine of disappointed love. h\ PMfi LACHA1SE 127 Returning to the main path, the visitor will perceive *1. Robertson (d. 1837), a professor of 'physics, phantasma- goria and aerostatics' as the reliefs indicate. Turning to the r. into the side path, and then ascending to the I. : r. Marshal Maison (d. 1840). r. 'Sepulture de la famille ete Plaisance', with a portrait in relief of the Duke of Piacenza (d. 1824), who held the office of 3rd consul during the consulate, and subsequently under the em- pire became governor of Holland and Genoa; he was also the translator of Tasso and Homer, as the genii indicate. Opposite is situated a lofty monument: ( L Aux victirnes de Juin la ville de Paris reconnaissante. Liberte, Ordre public'), record- ing the names of those who fell in June, 1848. 1. Marshal Lauriston (d. 1828), who in 1810 escorted the young empress Marie Louise to Paris. In the side-path to the 8KB'.: 1. Marshal Victor (d. 1841), who was taken prisoner by the Germans in 1807, and afterwards ex- changed for Bliicher. r. General Domon; on the monument are enumerated the battles at which he was present. — Behind it : ' Victirnes des trois journees de Fevrier 1848.' r. Count Labedoytre , colonel of the regiment at Grenoble which was the first to go over to Napoleon on his return from Elba .(March 1st, 1815); subsequently condemned to death (Augh 19th) at the same time as Ney. The ill-fated man was on te e point of sailing for America, - when he incautiously re- turn d to Paris to take leave of his young wife and child, and wast. there arrested. The sculptures refer to this affecting inci- denic • — To the N. is situated the Rond Point, in the centre of wh^h rises the handsome monument of Casimir Perier (d. 1832), consisting of a fine statue in bronze on a lofty pedestal. He was originally a banker and an active promoter of the July kingdom , subsequently prime minister of Lo uis Philippe. On the W. side of the Rond Point: J. Count Malet (d. 1843), a cavalry officer, who subsequently became a priest and founder of the order of Ste. Marie de Lorette, or Dames du Sacre Cuuir. 1. Monge (d. 1820) , the eminent mathematician and founder of the polytechnic school; in 1793, as a member of the Conven- tion, he voted for the execution of Louis XVI. ; in 1807 he was created Comte de Peluse. *1. Famille Rasp ail ; this distinguished chemist and zealous republican , member of the Montagnard party , received 40,000 votes as a candidate for the Presidency in December, 1848. He was afterwards arrested and condemned by the court at Bourges to six years inprisonment, for having been one of the instigators of the conspiracy of May to dissolve the National Assembly. 128 15. PfcRE LACHAISE. During his confinement his wife died , as the monument (by Etex) indicates. In the principal path: 1. Champollion (d. 1836), the eminent archaeologist. r. Clarke (d. 1818), marshal of France and minister of war. 1. Kellermann (d. 1820), marshal of France, Due de Valmy. 1. Laffitte (d. 1840), the well known banker, promoter of the July kingdom, minister of Louis Philippe, and subsequently the political opponent of the same cabinet. 1. Famille Dosne-Thiers, the burial-place of the family of the minister of that name. 1. A. Duchesnois (d. 1835), the tragic actress, represented in relief. r. Maret, due de Bassano (d. 1839), a temple with Doric co- lumns, without inscription. — Adjacent is the burial-ground of the ancestors of Talleyrand, the diplomatist. 1. Count Sieyes (d. 1836), abbe, member of the Convention in 1793, subsequently consul with Bonaparte. *1. Gouvion Saint Cyr (d. 1830), marshal, commander of the Bavarian division in the Russian campaign , afterwards minister of war. 1. Macdonald (d. 1840), marshal, commander of German troops in the Russian campaign. *1., on the higher ground, General Gobert, a large equestrian £roup in marble by David; a Spaniard endeavours in vain to prevent the invasion of the French by seizing the reins of the general's horse , an allegorical allusion to the Spanish war ; on the pedestal reliefs relating to the wars in Egypt, Italy, and Mar- tinique, and the battle of Famars (1793), at which the general was present. This magnificent monument was erected in 1847 under the direction of the Academy, to which a considerable sum was bequeathed by the general's son for that purpose and for the promotion of national art. r. Count Lavalette (d. 1830), condemned to death on the re- turn of the Bourbons in 1815; he, however, effected his escape from prison with the assistance of his wife , whose dress he as- sumed, whilst she remained behind. Opposite, r. : Caron de Beaumarchais (d. 1799), author of the 'Barber of Seville', 'Marriage of Figaro', etc. On the high ground, 1. : Larrey (d. 1842), physician general to the French army, styled by Napoleon I. 'the most virtuous man he knew'. Lower down, 1. : Dupuytren (d. 1835), the eminent surgeon. In the side-path, 1. : General Belliard (d. 1832), Belgian min- ister of war; 1. Due de Rovigo (d. 1833), a warm adherent of .Napoleon I., in 1831 governor of Algiers. — Farther on: Pierre Pajol (d. 1844), who headed the July insurrection in 1830. Ifp. PfeRK LACHAISE. 129 A little farther on, b near the 'Sepulture Schickler\ is a line point of *view towards the E., affording a survey of Vincennes. In the principal path : r. Couteaux, captain of engineers, who fell at the siege of the citadel of Antwerp in 1832; r. Eugene Scribe (d. 1861), the well known dramatist. 1. Vicomte de Martignac (d. 1835), celebrated for his noble defence of his political opponent, Prince Poligftac, in the chamber of peers after the revolution of July. * Adjacent to the latter, in the side-path: 1. Marshal Suchet (d. 1826), a lofty monument in marble. *r. Duchesse de Raguse (d. 1857), a chapel with sarcophagus. *r. Comte Pacthod (d. 1830), an obelisk with coat of arms and military emblems. r., near the wall: Volney (d. 1820), the philosopher. Returning towards the W. : 1. Parmentier (d. 1813), the well known chemist and introducer of the potato culture into France; r. Admiral Sir Sidney Smith, (d. 1840), the victorious opponent of Napoleon at St. Jean d'Acre. 1. General Gourgaud (d. 1850), the companion of Napoleon in St. Helena, and editor of his writings. r., nearer the wall: Don Manuel Godoy (d. 1851), better known as 'the Prince of Peace'. *r. Aguado (d. 1842), the great financier; a lofty sarcophagus with two admirable statues, emblematic of Benevolence and the Fine Arts. 1. General Rogniat (d. 1840), an eminent military writer, r. Famille Ledru-Rollin. In the square, of which the S.E. angle is formed by the monument of General Rogniat, are situated two well-executed monuments of an entirely different character from the above, those of Marc Schoelcher (d. 1832) (at the S.W. angle), 'mar- chand de porcelaine', and (on the other side of the square) his wife (d. 1839), parents of a well-known republican and deputy of the Assemblee Nationale of 1848. At the extremity of the main path : r. Vice- Admiral Lalande (d. 1849); 1. Jacotot (d. 1840), founder of an almost forgotten system of education , a sarcophagus with quotations from his writings. Then on the path to the 1. the tombs of several poets and savants : 1. Col. Bory de St. Vincent (d. 1846), an eminent antiquarian (member of the expedition to the Morea in 1829); 1. Nodier (d. 1844); r. Emile Souvestre (d. 1854); r. Bazin (d. 1850); r. Balzac (d. 1850); 1. *Casimir Delavigne (d. 1843). an obelisk with the Muse of Poetry. Opposite, in the angles of the three sections : Sepulture de la famille du Due de Morny (d. 1864), half- BiEDEKER. Paris. 3rd Edition. 9 J 30 15. PERE L A CHAISE. brother of Napoleon III., a cumbrous monument with the arms of the family. Jean Baptiste Delpech, an eminent engineer. Again to the 1., and the main path is reached: r. Helene Andrianoff, a Russian dancer, with recumbent figure. L Eugene Delacroix, the artist (d. 1865). *The termination of the main path is formed by a handsome mausoleum , erected by the Duchesse de Duras to her parents and children. *The most conspicuous monument in this part of the cemetery is that of F. de Beaujour ( d. 1836), a lofty pyramid, erected by himself before his death. — Descending hence a few steps to the 1. , the visitor will arrive at a point affording a remarkably fine view of Paris; the most prominent objects are the lofty dome of the Pantheon , the massive Notre Dame , the cupola of the Hotel des Invalides and the Arc de l'Etoile. [On the E. slope of the cemetery is situated the Mussulman Burial-ground, where the queen of Oude (d. 1857) and her son (d. 1858) are interred. To the 1. the church-spire of Belleville is visible ; to the r. that of Charonne.] Returning to the monument of Gen. Gourgaud, and diverging to the right: 1. ^Marshal Perignon (d. 1818), and his son-in-law ^General Valence (d. 1822). *r., at some distance from the path, Madame de Genlis (d. 1831), the celebrated authoress, and instructress of Louis Philippe. 1. Marquis Laplace (&. 1827), the celebrated astronomer. — Adjacent, Manuel Garcia (d. 1832), father of the singers Malibran and Viardot. — Behind these is *1. General Aboville (d. 1817), a handsome mausoleum Hanked by two 24 pounders. 1. Lafontaine (d. 1685), and Moliere (d. 1673), two sarcophagi brought here in 1817. *1. Boode, a Dutch merchant; a singular mausoleum in the Egyptian style. — Behind it, *David d J 'Angers (d. 1856), the celebrated sculptor. *]. Cambaceres (d. 1826), in 1793 member of the Convention, afterwards second consul, in 1808 Duke of Parma, in 1815 min- ister of Justice. *1. Admiral Decres (d. 1821), formerly minister of the marine ; the reliefs represent naval actions with the English. — Near the centre of the same compartment is the grave of Madame Cottin (d. 1807), the novelist. — Opposite the monument of the admiral, on the other side of the path, that of the Spanish General Vallesteros (d. 1832), 'mort dans l'exif . *r. Marshal Lefebvre (d. 1820), a monument in marble, with medallion-bust. *r. Marshal Massena (d. 1817), an obelisk with bust in a 15. PERE LACHAISE. 131 medallion. — 1. Marshal Serrurier (d. 1819). — r. Davoust (d. 1822), 'Prince d'Eckmuhl'. — \. Gobert and Larrey, already mentioned. At the angle formed by the bifurcation of the path is a small plot of ground laid out as a garden, the last resting place of the unfortunate Marshal Ney ; no monument or inscription marks the grave of 'le brave des braves 1 . r. Manuel (d. 1827), the orator; a lofty, rounded obelisk, with his medallion and that of Beranger; the remains of Beranger (d. 1857), the most illustrious lyric poet of France, repose within the same enclosure , having been interred by his wish in the tomb of his friend Manuel. *r. General Foy (d. 1825), a man of the highest abilities and most unblemished virtue ; his unpretending funeral was attended by upwards of 50,000 persons. — About 20 paces farther back is the simple gravestone of Paul Barras (d. 1829), President of the Directory in 1797 — 99 ; beyond it, the vault of Marshal Mortier, killed in 1835 by Fieschi's infernal machine. — In the vicinity, General Haxo (d. 1838), commander at the siege of Antwerp, founder of the fortifications of modern Paris. k, at some distance from the path, Caulaincourt, due de Vi- cence (d. 1827), diplomatist and minister; in the vicinity, Chappe (d. 1829), inventor of the optic telegraph. 1. Pozzo di Borgo (d. 1842), born in Corsica, a celebrated Russian diplomatist and opponent of Napoleon I. — Opposite, *r. Admiral Bruat (d. 1855), commander of the fleet before Sebastopol, died on his way home; a fine monument in marble, reliefs emblematic of his naval career. 1. Geoffroy St. Hilaire (d. 1844) and his son (d. 1862), the eminent zoologists. *1. Countess Demidoff (d. 1818), the most sumptuous monu- ment in the cemetery, consisting of 10 Doric columns of marble supporting an entablature, beneath which is a sarcophagus, resting on a basement of massive masonry. Prince Demidoff, who died in 1870, is also interred here. r. Famille Racine, descendants of the celebrated dramatist. r. Gaudin, due de Gaete (d. 1841), ministre des finances de l'Empire, a sarcophagus on a lofty basement. r. Etienne, dramatic author, editor of the Constitutionnel, pro- moter of the July revolution, subsequently Pair de France. Somewhat higher in the side-path : Princesse de Salm-Dyck (d. 1845), the poetess, sometimes termed L le Boileau des femmes'; a lofty sarcophagus of black porphyry. In the principal path: r. Pradier (d. 1852), the eminent sculptor; a sarcophagus, with bust, erected by his pupils. Proceeding towards the W. and crossing the principal paths, 9* 132 15. PftRE LACHAISE. the visitor will next reach the compartment occupied almost ex- clusively by the graves of artists and scientific men. Of these the following deserve especial mention : Talma (d. 1826), the celebrated actor; Brongniart (d. 1847), the mineralogist; *Bellini (d. 1835), Gretry (d. 1813), and Boiel- diea (d. 1834), the composers of celebrated operas ; Bernardin de St. Pierre (d. 1814), author of Paul and Virginia; *Cherubini (d, 1842), the eminent composer, during 20 years director of the Conservatoire ; *Chopin (d. 1849). *Denon (d. 1825) , on the opposite side of the path , who accompanied Bonaparte to Egypt, subsequently general director of museums. — In the compartment higher up, opposite to the Rond Point , the visitor may read the names of several other well known composers and artists. The Chapel, which occupies the site of the former residence of Pere Lachaise, is situated to the N. of the Rond Point. Fine view from the open grass-plot 20 paces beyond it. In the con- tiguous compartment: Count Deseze (d. 1828), in 1793 one of the defenders of Louis XVI. before the Convention; *Cartellier (d. 1831), the sculptor. Near the first flight of steps in descending the broad path : r. David (d. 1825), the celebrated painter, President of the Con- vention in 1793, when Louis .XVI. was condemned to death by this assembly. Farther down : r. Marshal Grouchy (d. 1847), a veteran of Hohenlinden, Waterloo, etc. Opposite: Count Raderer (d. 1835), an active promoter of the July revolution. The visitor now re-approaches the entrance-gate and, termi- nates his walk at the newest section of the cemetery, r. Beclard, Ministre de France au Marocco, with mourning female figure. Adjacent, r. Alfred de Musset (d. 1856), the poet, with a weep- ing willow : ^Mes chers amis quand je mourrai Plantez un saule au cimetiere ; J'aime son feuillage eplore, La palear men est douce et chere. Et son ombre sera legere, A la terre oil je dormirai.' A little farther, also on the r. Gioacchino Rossini (d. 1868), the celebrated composer ('Barber of Seville', 'Tell', etc.); adjacent, the minister of finance Achille Fould (d. 1869). r. Visconti (d. 1818), the philologist, and his son, the eminent architect. Opposite to them, on the other side of the grass-plot : Arago (d. 1853), the celebrated astronomer and staunch re- publican. The Jewish Bur ial - Ground (closed on Saturdays) also contains several handsome monuments , the names on which are 15. PfcRE LACHAISE. 133 most frequently German and Portuguese. Mademoiselle Rachel (d. 1858), the celebrated actress, is interred here. The following list will render material assistance to the visi- tor in enabling him without loss of time to find the monument he may desire to inspect. The numbers refer to those of the compartments in the plan, those within brackets to the pages in which the names have been already mentioned. : Abe'lard and Heloi'se 5 (126). ;; Aboville, General 25 (130). Aguado, financier 23 (129). Andrianoff, dancer 21 (130). Arago, astronomer 2 (132). Balzac, novelist 20 (129). Barras , President of the Directory 29 (131). Bassano, Duke of 18 (128). Beaujour, Felix de 20 (130). Beauniarcliais 29 (128). Beclard, minister 2 (132). Belliard, General, Belgian minister of war 32 (128). Bellini, composer 8 (132). Beranger, poet 29 (131). Bernardin de St. Pierre, author 8 (132). Boieldieu, composer 8 (132). *Boode, merchant of Amsterdam 28 (130). Borv de St. Vincent, archaeologist 21 (139). Brongniart, mineralogist 8 (132). : Bruat, Admiral 26 (131). :: Cambaceres, member of Convention and second consul 28 (130). Cartellier, sculptor 13 (132). Caulaincourt, minister 17 (131). Champollion . archaeologist 15 (128). Chappe, inventor of telegraph 17(131). : Cherubini, composer 8 (132). *Chopin, musician 8 (132). Clarke, Marshal 18 (128). Cottin, Madame, authoress 28 (130). Couteaux . captain of engineers 32 (129) . David, Louis, painter, president of Convention 1 (131). •David d'Angers, sculptor 28 (130). Davoust, Marshal 29 (131). ;: Decres, Admiral 28 (131). Delacroix, artist 21 (130). *Delavigne, author 21 (129). Delpech. engineer 21 (130). Demidoff, Countess 17 (131). ::: Denon, archaeologist 3 (132). ::: Deseze, defender of Louis XVI. 13 (132). ■Dias Santos, Duchesse de Duras 20 (130) . Domon, General 12 (127). Duchesnois, actress 19 (128). Dupuytren, surgeon 19 (128). Etienne, editor of the Constitution nel 26 (131). February victims 12 (127). Fould. minister of finance 2 (132). *Foy, General 29 (131). Gaeta, Duke of. minister of finance 27 (131). :;: Genlis, Madame de, authoress 24 ( 130). GeofYroy Saint Hilaire, naturalist 17 (131). *Gobert, General 19 (128). Godov, Spanish prince 34 (129). Gourgaud, General 23 (129). ,; Gouvion Saint Cyr, Marshal 19 (128). Gretry, composer 8 (132). Grouchy, Marshal 1 (132). Haxo, Gen. of engineers 29 (131). Jacotot, professor 33 (129). Jewish Burial Ground (121). June victims 11 (127). Kellermann, Marshal 19 (128). Labe'doyere, Colonel 12 (127). Laffitte, banker 19 (128). Lafontaine, fabulist 25 (130). Lalande, admiral 33 (129). Laplace, astronomer 25 (130). Larrev. military physician 19 (128). Lauri'ston. Marshal 10 (127). Lavalette, Count 31 (128). Lebrun, third consul 6 (127). Ledru-Rollin, family of 33 (129). -Lefebvre, Marshal 29 (130). Macdonald, Marshal 19 (128). Maison, Marshal 6 (127). Malet. founder of the order of Ste. Marie de Lorette 15 (127). Manuel, orator 29 (131). Maret, Due de Bassano 18 (128). Martignac. minister 28 (129). Massena, Marshal 29 (130). Moliere, dramatic author 25 (130). Monge , mathematician, member of Convention 15 (127). Morny, family of the Ducde 21 (129). Mortier, Marshal 29 (131). Musset, Alfred de 2 (132). Mussulman Burial Ground (130). Ney, Marshal 30 (131). Oude, Queen of (130). *Pacthod, General 34 (129). Pajol, General 32 (128). 134 16. LES BUTTES CHAUMONT. Parnientier, chemist 29 (129). : Perier, minister 16 (127). : Perignon, Marshal 24 (130). Plaisance(Piacenza), Duke of 6 (127). Pozzo di Borgo. Russian diplomatist 17 (131). Pradier, sculptor 24 (131). Rachel , actress , Jewish Cemetery (132). Racine, family 27 (131). Raguse, Duchesse de 32 (129). Raspail, chemist 15 (127). 'Robertson, prof, of physics 4 (127). Roederer, minister 2 (132). Rogniat, General 22 (129). Rossini, composer 2 (132). Rovigo, Due de 32 (128). Souvestre, Emile 20 (129). -Schickler, banker 31 (129). Scribe, dramatist 32 (129). Serrurier, Marshal 19 (131). Sidney Smith, Admiral Sir 34 (129). Sieyes, abbe, member of Convention 19 (128). • Suchet, Marshal 28 (129). Talma, actor 7 (132). Thiers, family of 19 (128). -Valence, General 24 (130). Vallesteros, Spanish general 29 (130). Vicenza, Due de, see Caulaincourt. Victor, Marshal 18 (127). Visconti, architect of the New Louvre 2 (132). Volney, philosopher 32 (129). The private Cimetiere Picpus, Rue de Picpus 15, Faubourg St. Antoine (adm. ^2 fr«)> * s tne ^ as * resting-place of several illustrious victims of the revolution of 1793, and of members of the old French noblesse. 16. Les Buttes Chaumont. *Les Buttes Chaumont is a new park, the last great work of M. Haussmann, the former enterprising Prefect of the Seine, situated in the suburb Belleville, on the N.E. side of Paris. (The omnibuses which convey visitors to the vicinity of the park, either directly or by 'correspondance', are those of the line AC, Champs Elysees to La Villette, which is situated a little to the N. of the park; or of the line N, Place des Victoires to Belle- ville, situated S. of the park. The stations Belleville-Villette, and to the S. of it Menilmontant on the Chemin de Fer de Cein- ture , are also in the vicinity of the Buttes Chaumont. The morning is the most favourable time for the views. The park of course contains several restaurants.) The Buttes Chaumont extend in the form of a crescent over an area of 22 hectares (55 acres). This was formerly the Parisian place of execution and a notorious resort of criminals, and until recently the place where all the rubbish of Paris was deposited. About the year 1860 the latter began to be removed in conse- quence -of sanitary considerations, and it was resolved to convert this ill-favoured locality into a park for the benefit of the artizans of the neighbouring quarter. The peculiar nature of the ground afforded an opportunity of laying it out in a novel and picturesque manner, and the task was skilfully executed by the engineer M. Alphand, and M. Barillet, Jardinier en chef de Paris. The quarries formerly worked here have been transformed into a rocky wilderness surrounded by a small lake, while the adjacent rugged surface is now covered with gardens and promenades shaded by trees. A cascade falling from a considerable height into an arti- 17. MONTMAHTRK 135 ficial stalactite grotto is intended to enhance the attractions of the scene. The highest rock is surmounted by a miniature Co- rinthian temple which (as well as the other hills) commands an admirable *view of St. Denis, Pere Lachaise, Montmartre, and an ocean of houses. A steep path hewn in the rock (not always accessible) descends from the top direct to the lake. Lower down a wire bridge crosses from this rock to one of the others , and all the different points of interest are thus rendered conveniently accessible to visitors. The park with its mimic romantic scenery presents a curious contrast to the densely peopled city which the visitor surveys from it, and is unquestionably one of the most remarkable results of the untiring zeal for improvement which characterised the reign of Napoleon III. On May 26th, 1871, Les Buttes Chaumont and Pere Lachaise were the only two positions still occupied by the insurgents. Those in possession of the park threw great numbers of shells lilled with petroleum into different parts of the city, with a view to aggravate the ruin and destruction they had already occasioned, while they in their turn were exposed to an incessant cannonade from Montmartre. On the 27th they were compelled to succumb. They then retreated to the lower part of Belleville, where they were received by the advancing troop> and shot down almost to a man. On the N. side of Les Buttes Chaumont is situated the quarter of La Villette, where prior to the war of 1870 — 71 a German colony of 450 families of a humble class was established. These poor but industrious people were driven from their homes by the war,' but many of them, have since returned and resumed their peaceful avocations. A German church and two German schools were founded here in 1858. 17. Montmartre. Cemetery of Montmartre. The Rue Laffitte , which is terminated by Notre Dame de Lorette, and its continuation the Rue des Martyrs lead in a direct line from the Boulevart des Italiens to the suburb of Montmartre. Pursuing the same direction for about 20 min. more, the stranger will reach the summit of Montmartre, 320 ft. above the Seine , a hill containing ex- tensive limestone and gypsum or plaster of Paris quarries , and commanding a view of the N. of Paris. According to tradition St. Denis and his companions suffered martyrdom here, whence probably the appellation of the hill, Mom Martyrum. Others conjecture that the name is derived from Mom Martis , from a temple of Mars which is supposed to have stood here. In 1147 Louis VI. founded a Benedictine Abbey here, which 136 L7. MONTMARTRE. was secularised during the first revolution. Portions of the buildings still exist. On the E. side is situated a 'Mount of Olives" (Jardin des Oliviers), containing singular representations, to which pilgrimages, especially in September, are frequently undertaken The heights of Montmartre witnessed the final struggle be- tween the French and the Prussian and Russian allies on March 30th, 1814, and also played an important part during the sieges of 1870 — 71. On March 18th. 1871, the insurgent soldiers, who had assassinated the generals Thomas and Lecomte, took possession of the cannon on Montmartre, over which a body of the national guard kept watch. Thus commenced the Communist rebellion of March 18th to May 28th, 1871, a period of horrors almost without parallel in the chequered annals of Paris. The insurgents were at length dislodged from their position here by the victorious troops on May 24th, and the latter in their turn directed the batteries of Montmartre against the insurgents who occupied Les Buttes Chaumont (p. 134) and Pere Lachaise (p. 123). The last shots were fired hence on the evening of the 27th, and on the following day the last sparks of the insurrection were ex- tinguished. The Tour de Solferino (admission 20 c. ; a cafe' on the ground- floor) , a small tower on the E. side of the hill, affords a fine *panorama of the huge sea of houses in the city, to the N., the plain of St. Denis and the course of the Seine, and to the E. the valley of. the Marne with Yincennes in the foreground. At the W. base of Montmartre, between the Barriere Blanche and the Barriere de Clichy, extending over disused gypsum quarries, is situated the *Cemetery of Montmartre, the oldest ,of the burial-grounds of modern Paris. Although far inferior to Pere Lachaise in the number of its monuments and illustrious names , it well merits a visit. To the r. in the first path, *three monuments to Polish re- fugees, 'exules Poloni memoriae suorurn . The visitor now returns hence, and enters the main path. Here, to the r., is the family- vault of Fr. Gail. Kalkbrenner (d. 1849), the well-known com- poser. Farther on, at the corner to the L., the tomb of the Cavaignac family , of which the most eminent members were the author Godefroy (d. 1845), and the general Eugene (d. 1857), president of the republic from June 28th to Oct. 20th, 1848. Beneath the cross in the rotunda repose the republicans who fell at the time of the coup d'etat in Dec. 1852, a spot always decorated with numerous wreaths. Farther on in the principal path: Baron Menevul, 'secretaire intime de l'empereur Napoleon'. On a slight eminence at the extremity of this avenue is situated 18. VINCENNES. 137 the Jewish Burial Ground (closed on Saturdays). On most of the tombstones the visitor perceives small heaps of stones or pebbles, placed there as a token of love or esteem, in accordance with a prevalent Jewish custom. — In a conspicuous position to the 1. at the end of the walk, Halevy , the celebrated composer (d. 1862), with marble statue over life-size. Returning thence, and diverging towards the W. (the second path to the r. after leaving the Jewish Burial Ground), the visitor will perceive to the r. the monument of Comte Daru (d. 1829), the constant companion and confidant of Napoleon , minister of war in 1813, and also known as an historian. 1. Henri Heine (d. 1856), the poet. r. Armand Marrast (d. 1852), the well known republican editor, in 1848 'membre du gouvernement provisoire, Maire de Paris, President de l'Assemblee Nationale'. At the extremity of this path , before the steps are reached , the visitor diverges to the r. ; one of the first graves to the 1. is that of Ad. Nourrit (d. 1839), the celebrated singer. 1. Duchesse d J Abrantes (d. 1838), wife of Marshal Junot, and an eminent authoress; bust of the duchess in a medallion by David d'Angers. 1. Charles Zeuner (d. 1841), the composer. — The steps to ther. are now descended, and those above, on the opposite side, ascended. On the eminence at the W. extremity of the Jewish cemetery is a monument which marks the spot where the heart of Marshal Lannes, Due de Montebello, who died of his wounds in 1809, is interred. I. A large block of marble indicates the resting-place of the artist Paul Delaroche (d. 1857). Opposite is a chapel, decorated in the Byzantine style, to the memory of Marie Potocka, Princesse Soltikoff (d. 1845); near it, the tomb of Prince Tufiakin, chamber- lain of the Emperor of Russia (d. 1845). Beyond the embankment is the extensive new cemetery with numerous monuments, which however are of comparatively little interest. A lofty obelisk, the most conspicuous monument in the ceme- tery, marks the tomb of the Duchesse of Montmorency (d. 1829); adjacent to it, the grave of a Prince of Saxe Cobourg (d. 1832). 18. Vincennes. Parr de Vincennes. Canal Saint Maur. Charenton. Omnibus to Vincennes (in a / 4 hr. ) every half-hour from the Square des Arts et Me'tiers (p. 26, line AE), fare 15 or 30 ,c. Railway-trains also every half-hour, from the Place de la Bastille, to the station of which a special omnibus runs from the Place de la Bourse. To obtain access to the chateau of Vincennes, per- mission must be procured from the commanding artillery officer, 138 18. VINCENNES. to whom a written application f should be addressed (postage 10 c, prepaid). Visitors are admitted on Saturdays only, 12 — 4 o'clock. The chateau contains few objects of interest, with the ex- ception of the view from the 'donjon', and the monument of the Due d'Enghien. The Place du Trone forms the E. extremity of Paris, and is situated 6 M. in a direct line from the Arc de l'Etoile, the W. extremity of the city. Twelve different streets (boulevarts, avenues, etc.) diverge hence. On a throne erected here, Aug. 26th, 1660, Louis XIV. re- ceived the homage of the city of Paris, on the conclusion of the peace of the Pyrenees, whence the present appellation of the Place. The two lofty, fluted Doric Columns of the Place du Trone were commenced in 1788, but not completed till 1847 . Each is adorned with two reliefs by Desboeufs and Simart, those towards the city emblematic of Commerce and Industry , the others of Victory and Peace. They are surmounted by statues in bronze of St. Louis, by Etex, and Philip le Bel, by Dumont. The chateau of Vincennes, founded in the 12th cent., was subsequently fitted up as a royal residence. In 1740, under Louis XV. , it was converted into a manufactory of porcelain (removed 10 years later to Sevres), and afterwards into a weapon manufactory. In 1832 — 44, under Louis Philippe, the chateau was strongly fortified and furnished with extensive artillery depots. Vincennes also possesses an Ecole de tir . where a number of officers' from every regiment are instructed in the use of the newest fire-arms , and whence most of the recent improvements in this department have emanated. In former ages the chateau was long employed as a State- prison. Out of a long list of illustrious persons confined within' its walls, may be mentioned: the king of Navarre (1574), Conde (1617), Mirabeau (1777), the Due d'Enghien (1804), the min- isters of Charles X. (1830), and the conspirators against the National Assembly, Raspail, Barbes, Blanqui, Courtais, etc. (May 15th, 1848). A melancholy interest attaches to the fortress from its having been the scene of the execution of the unfortunate Due d'Enghien. He was arrested by order of Napoleon, March 14th, 1804, on German territory, whence lie was conveyed to Vincennes, and 7 A Monsieur le Commandant de TArtillerie du l er Arrondissement (Est) a Vincennes: 'Monsieur, j'ai Fhonneur de vous prier de vouloir bien m'autoriser a visiter le Chateau de Vincennes. Agreez, Monsieur, Tassu- rance de la parfaite consideration de votre tres-humble serviteur. Name, address, and profession should he written very distinctly. 18. V1NCKNNES. there condemned by a court-martial. The accusation was that he was privy to the plot formed by Pichegru, Cadoudal, and others against the emperor. The sentence was executed March 20th, and the body of the ill-fated prince interred in the fosse where he was shot. In 1816 Louis XVIII. caused the duke's remains to be disinterred and removed to the chapel , where he erected a monument to his memory. In May, 1871. the chateau was one of the last places occupied by the insurgents, but they were com- pelled to evacuate it on the approach of the Versailles troops, leaving one of their number concealed in a casemate with in- structions to set fire to the powder-magazine when the troops had entered. This unfortunate wretch, whom almost certain death awaited in any ea.-e, preferred suicide to the execution of his murderous commission. On this occasion (May 29th) 400 insur- gents, unable to effect their retreat, surrendered : a discretion'. The Chapel, with its tasteful Gothic front, was commenced in 1248 and completed in 1552. It was employed during the revo- lution as a magazine, but was restored to its sacred use in 1842. The interior, which is destitute of aisles, is remarkable for the elegance of its proportions , and for several fine stained glass windows , one of which contains a portrait of Diane de Poitiers, the mistress of Henry II. The monument of the Due d Enghien, in the old sacristy, by Deseine, consists of four figures in marble, the duke supported by Religion , France bewailing his loss, and a. figure emblematic of Vengeance. Prior to the recent war, the Salle d'Armes, or armoury, is said to have contained a store of weapons sufficient for the equipment of 120,000 men. The platform of the Donjon, a massive square tower with four smaller towers at its angles , commands a fine prospect. The walls of this structure are 17 ft. in thickness, and its five lofty stories , each consisting of one spacious apartment with four smaller rooms in the corner towers, were formerly employed for the reception of the state-prisoners. The Bois de Vincennes, an ancient forest, and, as early as the time of St. Louis (d. 1270), a favourite hunting ground of the French monarchs, was in 1731 entirely replanted by order of Loui> XV. In more modern times considerable encroachments on it have been made by railway and military works, and it has recently been laid out as a park in the same style as the Bois de Boulogne. The road from Paris to the wood passes by the chateau. At the extremity of the new line of forts the road to the r. leading to Joinville-le-Pont must be taken, from which, a short distance farther on, the road to Nogent diverges. Both of these roads lead to the artificial Lac des Minimes (i 1 ^ M. from the castle), with its three islands, on the smallest of which, the He de la Porte- Jkmne , connected with the mainland by a bridge, a restaurant 140 18. VINCENNES. will be found. From the meadow to the W. of the lake a view of the Exercising -ground (with an Obelisk erected by Louis XV.) and the Poly gone is obtained. The Cascade which supplies the lake is formed by the Ruisseau de Nogent and the Ruisseau des Minimes ; the latter, running towards the S., traverses one of the most picturesque portions of the wood. In the vicinity of its source, near the Redoute de la Faisanderie, is situated the plain of the Camp of St. Maur. Towards the E. the road from Joinville to Nogent leads to the Rond de Beaute , so called on account of the beautiful view it affords of the valley of the Marne. Towards the S. the military road passes behind the redoubts 'de la Faisanderie' and 'de Gra- velle', and a farm which was until recently the model Ferine Napoleon, the property of the late emperor. About 100 paces to the W. of the Redoute de Gravelle is situated the Lac de Gravelle. The Rond- Point de Gravelle commands a charming view of the Marne and Seine. The Lac de Gravelle is connected with the Lac de St. Mande by the Ruisseau de St. Mande, following the course of which the stranger passes the. Asile Imperial des Invalides Civils (to the l.J, opened in 1857 for the reception of invalid workmen. The hollow in which the Lac de St. Mande is situated is the most beautiful spot in the entire park. Those whose time is limited will have an opportunity of seeing a portion of the park, if they avail themselves of one of the omnibuses which run every hour in an E. direction from Vin- cennes to Nogent-sur-Marne and Joinville-le-Pont (in 2/4 hr.). Nogent-sur-Marne contains several handsome country residences ; the first to the r. on leaving the railway-station belongs to Marshal Vaillant, formerly minister of war. A railway-bridge of nearly ifa M. in length belonging to a branch of the Strasbourg line crosses the Marne here. At Joinville-le-Pont issues the Canal de St. Maur, a subterranean channel 650 yds. in length and furnished with a towing path, accessible to foot-passengers. By means of this canal, vessels navigating the Marne effect a saving of nearly 15 M., by avoiding the long curve which the river here describes. At the E. extremity a picturesque, green valley is entered. Its peaceful and sequestered aspect affords no indication of the proximity of the vast city. The name of the village is Gravelle. The celebrated lunatic asylum of Charenton, about l 1 /^ M. to the W. of this point, a spacious edifice situated on an eminence, was newly fitted up in 1847. The number of patients is about 400. some of whom are. received gratuitously by permission of the Minister of the Interior, while others pay according to the accommodation required. The relations and friends of patients obtain access on Sundays and Thursdays if provided with a special 18. VINCENNES. 141 permission from the director. No other visitors are admitted except professional men. From 1606 to 1685 the principal seat of the French Protes- tants was at Charenton, where they possessed one of their largest churches and several public institutions ; but the settlement was dispersed in consequence of the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. The church was pulled down, and the stones employed in the construction of a hospital in Paris. Charenton is a station on the Railway to Fontainebleau ; station at Paris in the Boulevart Mazas (comp. pp. 28, 210). LEFT BANK OF THE SEINE. 19. Palais du Luxembourg. Garden. Net/"s Monument. Observatory. In the quarters of the city on the 1. bank of the Seine, the Faubourg St. Marcel, Faubourg St. Jacques and St. Michel (Quar- tier Latin), and the Faubourg St. Germain, the principal objects of interest are the Jardin des Plantes (p. 155), the Pantheon (p. 151), and the Palais du Luxembourg, with its Gallery of Modern Pictures. Of these, the last named deservedly holds the first rank. Like the collections of the Louvre, it is open to the public- daily, Mondays excepted, from 10 to 4 o'clock. The garden is accessible daily from sunrise to sunset. Visitors were formerly admitted to the palace also (gratuity 1 fr. for one pers., 2 — 3 fr. for a party), but it is now occupied by the offices of the Pre'fet de la Seine, formerly at the Hotel de Ville, and is therefore closed to the public. This palace, the most extensive in Paris after the Louvre, the Tuileries, and the Palais Royal, was erected and sumptuously decorated in 1615 by Desbrosses, by order of Marie de Medicis. Here, in the spring of 1621, Rubens sketched the designs of his large pictures representing scenes from the queen's life, now in the Louvre, which he afterwards executed at Antwerp with the aid of his pupils, and exhibited in the halls of the Luxembourg in 1625. The long gallery still contains frescoes by Jordaens, Rubens' talented pupil. The palace derives its appellation from the Duke of Pi nay- Luxembourg, whose mansion formerly occupied the same site ; various other names have been proposed, but have never been universally adopted. Down to the revolution the palace continued to be a royal residence, and immediately before that event was presented by Louis XVI. to his brother the Count of Provence (Louis XVIII. ), who quitted it in June, 1791. The Convention, which had selected the Tuileries for the seat of its operations, converted the Luxembourg into a prison (especi- ally intended for the reception of members of noble families), in which Hebert, Camille Desmoulins, Danton, Robespierre, the artist 19. PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG. 143 David, Josephine Beauharnais, and others, were afterwards tempo- rarily confined. Tn 1795 the edifice received the name of Pa- lais du Directoire, subsequently that of Palais du Consulat. For a time the Directory and the Consulate held their sittings here : the latter, however, for a short period only, as Bonaparte re- moved to the Tuileries, Feb. 29th, 1800. During the empire the palace was occupied by the senate, and was termed Palais du Senat-Conservateur . After the resto- ration, and under Louis Philippe, the Chamber of Peers met here. In March and April, 1848, the 'Commission du gouvernement pour les travailleurs' under Louis Blanc and Albert ('Ouvrier') held their Socialist meetings in the palace. From 1852. to 1870 it was again styled Palais du Senat, that body having during the Jate regime, as under Napoleon I., held its sittings there. The *Salle du Trone, constructed and sumptuously decorated in 1856, replaces the former Salle du Serial and Salle des Con- ferences. The walls are decorated with a series of large pictures of scenes from the history of the Napoleons: 1. Napoleon 1. elected Emperor, by Signol ; 2. He signs the Concordat, by Hesse; 3. Napoleon with the Invalids, by Couder; 4. He inspects the flags captured at Austerlitz, by Philippoteaux. In the cupola. Apotheosis of Napoleon I. and Triumph of Universal Suffrage, by Alaux (7,500,000 votes for the late Emperor). Then, 5. Distribution of the eagles in the Champ de Mars in 1852, by Pits ; 6. Return of the Pope to Rome in 1849, by Benouville ; 7. The Senate proclaiming the Empire, by Couder ; 8. Napoleon III. inspecting the progress of the New Louvre, by Gosse. In the semi-cupolas above the centre of the hall : Triumph of Christianity, and the Renaissance under the French kings, both by Lehmann. The Galerie des Busies, containing the busts of the senators of the first empire, -surrounds the Salle du Senat. The latter was destroyed by fire in 1859, but was restored to its original form. The lowest seats were reserved for princes, cardinals, and marshals ; while the senators spoke from their respective seats. The visitor is now conducted back to the Salle du Trone, and then to what was formerly the Cabinet de VEmpereur, which contains the following pictures : 1. Napoleon III. entering Paris from St. Cloud, by Couder ; 2. His Nuptials, by Fleury ; 3. Napoleon I. signs the Peace of Campoformio, by Brisset; 4. The 18th Brumaire, by Vinchon. A stair now descends to the Apartments of Queen Marie de Medici s. The decorations of the Bed-Chamber of Marie de Medicis were torn down and partially destroyed during the first revolution ; >ome of them, however, were afterwards discovered in a garret of the Louvre. Louis XVIII. caused this apartment to be restored in its former style in 1817. The decorations, which consist of arabesques on a gold ground, are executed with great taste. The paintings are of the school of Rubens. After the restoration, 144 19. PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG. and under Louis Philippe, this room was known as the Salle da Livre d'Or, and was employed as a receptacle fcfr documents recording the titles and coats of arms of the Peers of France. Members of these families, during that period were accustomed to celebrate their nuptials in the richlv decorated Chapel, restored in 1842. The Library of the Senate, a handsome gallery with 40,000 vols., is not usually shown to the public (enquiry may be made of the attendant). The cupola is adorned with one of the finest works of the talented Delacroix (d. 1863), representing Elysium as portrayed by Dante, and remarkable for its spirited style and rich colouring. The *Musee du Luxembourg, a collection of upwards of 200 Paintings of Living Artists, some 30 sculptures, and a number of drawings, engravings, and lithographs, is situated in the E. wing of the palace. Many of the pictures here are not inferior in interest to those in the Louvre ; but no works are exhibited in the latter until 10 years after the death of the artists. The usual entrance is by a door (the first to the r.) within the railing of the garden at the N.E. end, whence a mean stair- case is ascended (on Sundays and festivals by the principal portal, opposite the Rue de Tournon). With a few exceptions the collection of pictures consists exclu- sively of good works, but the sculptures are of inferior merit. Each work has the name of the artist attached. A few of the most interesting pictures are enumerated here, although many others are hardly less worthy of careful inspection. The dates given in the Handbook are those of the admission of the respective pic- tures into the collection. The order of the pictures is changed very frequently. Catalogue 75 c. The visitor enters the 'Great Gallery', and from it a small room to the r. First Small Room. The enumeration begins on the r. of the entrance : 191. Rousseau, Sunset. 1855. 33. Brion, Cessation of the Deluge, the dove returning to the arch with the olive-branch. 1864. 150. Lenepveu, Christian interment in the Catacombs. 1855. 181. Robert- Fleury, Jane Shore overtaken by her pursuers. 1850. The Great Gallery adjacent possesses a ceiling-painting, the Rising of Aurora by Callet (d. 1823), surrounded by twelve smaller paintings by Jordaens, the pupil of Rubens, allegorically representing the signs of the zodiac. The sculptures here hardly merit inspection. Over the door of the room to the r. : 157. Matout. Woman of Boghari slain by a lion. 19. PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG. Then beginning to the 1. of the entrance : *216. Horace Vernet (d. 1863), Marshal Moncey defending the Barriere de Clichy at Paris against the Russians (March 30th. 1814). 64. Eugene Delacroix (d. 1863), Jewish wedding in Morocco. 180. Robert-Fleury, Conference at Poissy (p. 334), summoned by Catherine de Medicis and Charles IX. in 1561, with a view to adjust the differences between the Roman Catholics and Pro- testants; Theod. Beza, the Genevese Reformer, is represented as the spokesman of the latter. 1840. *166. Miiller, Reading of the names of the last victims of the Reign of Terror, before the fall of Robespierre (July 27th, 1794), in the prison of the Luxembourg ; the figures are all portraits ; among them are the Princesse de Chimay, and Montalembert. 1850. *22. Rosa Bonheur, Oxen ploughing. 1849. 84. Francais, Orpheus. 23. Rosa Bonheur, Hay harvest. 119. Ingres (d. 1867), Christ giving Peter the keys of heaven. 1820. 120. Ingres, Ruggiero releases Angelica (from Ariosto). 1819. 122. Ingres, Apotheosis of Homer (sketch of ceiling-painting in the Muse'e Charles X. in the Louvre; see p. 75). Before inspecting the opposite side of the gallery, the visitor had better visit the Third Room. In the centre : Millet, The forsaken Ariadne, a statue in marble, 1857. On the r. : Buret, Improvisatore, 1838. On the 1. : Buret, Fisher-boy dancing the Tarantella, 1833. On the wall opposite the entrance, to the r. : *15. Benouville (d. 1859) , The dying St. Francis blessing the town of Assisi. 1853. 144. Lefebvre, Nymph and Bacchus. 1866. *29. Breton, Gleaners. 1859. To the 1. of the entrance : 202. Schnetz, Inundation in the Roman Campagna. 1831. *30. Breton, Harvest. We now return to the Great Gallery. Left Side: 47. Court (d. 1865), Antony addressing the people after the murder of Caesar. 1827. *60. Belacroix, Dante and Virgil, conducted by Phlegyas, cross- ing the Styx ; among the guilty shades that endeavour to enter the boat Dante recognises Florentines. 1822. 124. Ingres, Birth of Venus; 125. The Fountain. Both small reproductions of the larger works by the same master. 78. Flandrin, Portrait of a lady. B^edekek. Paris. 3rd Edition. 10 146 19. PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG. 43 Couture, Romans of the Declining Empire. 1847. *65. Paul Delaroche (d. 1856), The sons of Edward in the Tower of London. 1831. 126. Isabey, Embarcation of De Ruyter and William Pitt. 1850. 218. Horace Vernet, Meeting of Raphael and Michael Angelo in the Vatican : 'You are attended by a train like a general's' , says Michael Angelo ; 'And you are alone like the hangman', readily responds Raphael. 1833. 158. Meissonnier, Napoleon III. at Solferino. 1864. 139. Lariviere, The plague at Rome in the time of Nicholas V. — 1831. The visitor now traverses a narrow passage opposite the en- trance, containing drawings (portraits, buildings, etc.). Rotunda. Sculptures. In the centre: 301. Perraud, Childhood of Bacchus, 1863. Then beginning to the r. of the entrance: • 299. Oliva, Rembrandt, a bust in bronze; Loison, Victoria; 268. Cavelier, Mother of the Gracchi. 1861. In [the opposite Room: In the centre : Gatleaux, Minerva after the Judgment of Paris, a statue in bronze, 1839. Ingres, Cartoons for the stained glass of the chapel of Dreux, and that of St. Ferdinand (p. 94). St. Ferdinand bears the features of the Duke of Orleans (d. 1842), St. Helen those of the Duchess (d. 1858). Then : 172. Pliilippoteaux, Louis XV. visiting the battle-field of Fontenoy (1745). 1840. In the Room on the right: *205. Schreyer, Advance of the artillery guard at Traktir, Aug. 16th, 1855. 1865. 109. Hdlbuth, Scene at a pawn-broker's. 1861. 151. Leroux, The new-born child. 1864. In the Room on the left: Sculptures. 296. Moreau, Spinner, 1861 ; 262. Aizelin, Psyche. *14. Belly, Mecca pilgrims in the desert. 1861. 102. Guillaumet, Evening prayer in the Sahara. 1863. 147. Leleux, Wedding in Bretagne. 1863. 93. Giraud, Spanish dancing^woman. 1852. In the following Room: 209. Signol, Christ and the Adulteress. 1840. 128. Jacque, Flock of sheep. 1861. 140. Laugee, The painter Le Sueur among the Carthusians. 1855. 142. LazergeSj Descent from the Cross. 1855. 19.. I 'ALA IS BU LUXEMBOURG. 147 I n the next Room: In the centre: Jaley, The prayer, a statue in marble. *159. Meissonnier, Napoleon III. with his staff. 220. Vetter, Louis XIV. at table with Moliere. 1864. 32. Brion, Pilgrims of Ste. Odile in Alsace. 1863. 156. Marchal, Market of maid-servants in Alsace. 1863. Maxime David, Three miniatures on ivory, representing Abd-el- Kader praying, as regent, and before the battle. 1853. The * Garden on the S. side of the palace, open daily till dusk, is admirably laid out, and contains tastefully kept flower- beds and delightful walks. The 8. portion is, however, now intersected by two new streets , which are approaching comple- tion, and unfortunately diminish the area as well as the attrac- tions of the garden. It is adorned by a number of statues and sculptures, principally modern, among which may be mentioned the 20 statues of women celebrated in the history of France ar- ranged along the terrace. The grass-plot to the N.E. is adorned with a group of Adam and his Family, by Garauld ; others with a statue of Archidamas about to throw the discus, by Lemaire ; Diana of Versailles, the Borghese Gladiator, etc. At the sides of the large basin, on pedestals of Italian marble, David with the sword , and a Nymph , an Italian work of the 16th cent. At the S. end of the garden is situated the Botanic Garden of the Ecole de Medecine, towards the E., and the Pepiniere, or nursery-garden, towards the W. : the latter is adorned with a statue of Velleda, the celebrated Germanic prophetess (A. D. 70), by Maindron. The S. issue of the garden is in the Allee de V Observatoire, in which, to the L, is situated Ney's Statue, cast in bronze from a design by Rude , and standing on the precise spot where (Dec. 7th, 1815) the unfortunate marshal was shot, in accordance with the sentence pronounced on the previous day by the Chamber of Peers in the Luxembourg. The figure is in a commanding attitude, but the features are open to criticism. At the extremity of the Allee rise the extensive Jniildings of the Observatoire , founded in 1672, the interior of which is accessible on the first Sunday of each month at 3. p m. , and then only by special permission of the director. Through the centre of this establishment runs the meridian of Paris. 20. Musee des Thermes et de l'Hotel de Cluny. Sorbonne. This collection of Roman and Mediaeval Antiquities, entrance Pue Du Sommerard (formerly des Mathurins) 14, in the new Place des Ecoles, is open to the public on Sundays and holidays 10* 148 20. MUSEE DES THERMES. from 11 to 4; daily (except Monday) from 11 to 4y 2 to strangers provided with a passport (or visiting-card); on Mondays, Tues- days, and Saturdays to students. The catalogue, which may be purchased at the door for 2 fr. : is indispensable for those who desire to make themselves acquainted with all the objects of in- terest in this splendid collection. The Roman Emperor Constantius Chlorus, who resided in Gaul from 292 to 306 , is believed to have been the founder of the palace, of which the baths (Thermes) still existing formed a portion. It is an historical fact that Julian was here proclaimed emperor by his soldiers in 360; the early Franconian monarchs also resided here. At the close of the 15th cent, the abbots of the wealthy Benedictine Abbey of Cluny in Southern Burgundy , who pos- sessed property of considerable extent in Paris , but no suitable residence , caused a small mansion , the Hotel de Cluny of the present day , to be erected on the site of the ancient Roman palace. This edilice still retains its mediaeval exterior, and is a fine specimen of the style of the transition from Gothic to Renaissance. The abbots, who seldom resided in Paris, placed their mansion at the disposal of the monarchs of France, and we accordingly find that it was occupied in 1515, soon after its completion, by Mary, sister of Henry VITT. of England, and widow of Louis XII. Her apartment is still termed la Chambre de la Reine Blanche, it having been the custom of the queens of France to wear white mourning. On Jan. 1st, 1537, the nuptials of James V. of Scotland with Madeleine, daughter of Francis 1., were celebrated here. The first revolution converted this ecclesiastical estate into na- tional property, and in 1833 the Hotel de Cluny fell into the hands of M. Da Sommerard, an enthusiastic collector of medieval cu- riosities; on his death the edifice with its collections was pur- chased by government, and united with the Roman Baths which had hitherto belonged to the municipality of Paris. The Collection of Mediaeval Cariosities, belonging principally to the l£th — 16th cent., and exceeding 3000 in number, is of such an extent as to defy enumeration. It consists of reliefs, carving , ecclesiastical decorations and vestments , furniture , ta- pestry, weapons, carved ivory, musical instruments, missals, stained glass, pictures, etc. The large hall contains some interesting rem- nants of episcopal robes, and a crozier of the 12th cent., dis- covered at Bayonne in 1853. The three lower rooms contain objects of le.-s interest than the upper. 2nd Room: 532. Bench of a refectory of the 15th cent.; 537. Another of the 16th cent.; 612. Cabinet of the 15th cent. ; 104. Statuette of Diana of Poitiers as Diana; r. , by the window, keys of various periods. 20. MUSEE DES THERMES. 149 3rd Room . 558. Cabinet from a sacristy , 15th cent. ; 588. Cabinet, 17th cent. ; 590. Another. 4th Room: 609. Cabinet of Dutch workmanship, 1 7th cent.; 1817. Chimney piece, 16th cent. ; 578. Cabinet, 16th cent. Then two rooms containing a number of sumptuous carriages and sledges. The first also contains ecclesiastical vestments, of which the most interesting is No. 2422. Remnants of episcopal robes, and crozier of the 12th cent., found at Bayonne in 1853; then ancient weapons, carved ivory, missals, musical instruments, stained glass, ancient pictures, specimens of early printing, etc. The stair leads first to a corridor with weapons, with some of which interesting reminiscences are connected , as the labels indicate. To the r. are two rooms containing porcelain from Italy, Spain, Germany, etc. In the room opposite : 541. State-bed of the time of Francis I. ; then miniatures, etc. Next Salle Du Sommerard , containing the bust of M. Du Sommerard. Also No. *1744. Chess-board and men of rock- crystal , formerly the property of the crown, German workman- ship of the 15th cent. — The large glass case in the middle contains : 399. Reliquary of the 12th cent. ; 404. Ditto, 14th cent. ; 419. Ditto; 502. Two lions' heads of rock crystal, which, with the figure No. 384. were found in a tomb on the Rhone, 3rd or 4th cent.. ■ — Then by the window: 389. Ivory book-cover, 10th cent.; 1980. Ivory altar-piece, 14th cent.; 406. Bas-relief in ivory, 14th cent. — 610. Cabinet with Florentine mosaics, middle of 17th cent. In the following room : Nos. 1000 — 1008. Figures of gods and other personages , in enamelled copper , destined to adorn the chateau Madrid, erected for Francis I. in the Bois de Boulogne; the enamelled plates are said to be the largest in existence (3 ft. broad, 5 high). On the r. and 1. of the entrance : German and Venetian glasses of the 16th and 17th cent. — In the glass case by the middle window: 1099. Miniature enamelled altar, bearing the name and titles of Henri II. and Catharine • de Medicis , 16th cent. — In the centre of the room, episcopal croziers. No. 304. Sixty miniature wooden figures, representing the kings of France from Clovis to Louis XIII. (d. 1643), carved during the reign of the latter monarch. The room before the last contains a number of very interesting objects in gold. The most remarkable of these are preserved in the glass-case in the centre: * 3113 — 21. Nine Crowns of Gothic Kings of Spain, found near Toledo, one of which bears the name of King Recesvinthus (649 — 672), decorated with pearls, sapphires, and other jewels. In the glass-case on the r. : * 1329. Episcopal 150 20. MUSEE DES THERMES. crozier , richly gilded, and decorated with jewels and eight miniature reliquaries , of which that in the centre contains a fragment of the 'True Cross'. In the glass-case on the L : 3123. Golden Rose of Bale , presented by Clement V. to the Arch- bishop of Bale. By the wall: *3122. Altar-piece 3 ft. in height, and 5 ft. in width, in embossed gold, presented by Emp. Henry II. (d. 1024) to the cathedral of Bale, and purchased along with the 'Rose' from the canton Bale-Campagne in 1830. Then by one of the windows: 3138. Vessel with Charles V. , surrounded by the dignitaries of his court , musicians and sailors , in gilded bronze, the emperor of pure gold; the whole is moveable, mechanism of the 16th cent. ; 3668. and 3669. Russian figures of saints, brought as trophies from Bomarsund in 1854. In the middle of the entrance - wall : 3674. Jaw-bone of Moliere. The last room contains specimens of French porcelain. From the 1st Room the visitor proceeds to the 1. to the Chambre de la Heine Blanche (p. 148), containing a variety of musical instruments; then to the sumptuous *Palace Chapel, which during the revolution served as an assembly-hall , subsequently as a dissecting-room, and finally as a printing-office. The egress leads through the back-court to the lofty, vaulted hall, which constitutes the only perfect remnant of the Roman Baths (Thermes). The columns are in different places adorned with the figure of the prow of a vessel , which formed a promi- nent portion of the arms of the ancient Lutetia Parisiorum,, and is still conspicuous in the arms of modern Paris. The fact that this one hall, which was the Frigldarium, or apartment for cold baths, is 64 ft . in length, 38 ft. in breadth, and 59 ft. in height, may serve to convey some idea of the vast extent of the ancient Roman palace. These baths and the curiosities they contain, the sole relics of the Roman period in Paris, are of little interest to the non-professional visitor; 1. 2692. Statue of Julian, who was proclaimed Emperor here. The Garden contains a number of interesting mediaeval architectural fragments , many of them rescued from edifices de- molished in the course of the metropolitan improvements. No. 3732. Cross from the Church of St. Vladimir at Sebastopol, presented by Marshal Pelissier (Duke of Malakoff). Ascending the street towards the S. the stranger will soon arrive at the Sorbonne , or buildings of the university of Paris, erected about the middle of the 17th cent. The three faculties of theology (Rom. Cath.), science, and literature have their seat here. The lectures are open to the public. The Sorbonne , originally a theological college only , was founded in 1250 by Robert de Sorbon, the confessor of Louis XI., and during the middle ajje^ enjoyed the highest reputation, it 21. PANTHEON. 151 not unfrequently even opposed the authority of the Pope, as, for example, when it rejected the 'Unigenitus' bull. Subsequently it became the opponent of the Jesuits , as well as of the school of philosophy of the 18th cent. , whose sarcasms were usually levelled at the Sorbonne. The medical and legal faculties possess buildings of their own. The Ecole de Medecine is in the street of the same name, near the Hotel de Cluny, and the Ecole de Droit, Place du Pantheon 8. 21. Pantheon. Library of Ste. Genevieve. The Church of Sainte Genevieve, or * Pantheon, as it is more usually termed , which occupies the most elevated situation in Paris, stands on the site of an ancient church erected in honour of Ste. Genevieve, who was interred here in 511. The present edifice was designed by Soufflot, and the foundation-stone laid by Louis XV. in 1764. The new structure was also dedicated to Ste. Genevieve, the protectress of the city of Paris. The Convention , however , in 1791 determined that it should be converted into a species of temple , and gave it the name of 'Pantheon', dedicated L Aux grands hommes la patrie reconnaissante% as the inscription on the frieze still records. The inscription was erased in 1822, but was renewed in 1830 after the July revolution , and still retains its place, notwithstanding the decree of Dec. 6th, 1851, by which the edifice has been restored to its sacred use under its original appellation of 'Eglise Ste. Genevieve'. For upwards of 60 years the 'Pantheon' has been a source of discord between church and state, and has experienced vicissitudes from which, however, it appears now to enjoy a respite. Although cruciform in shape, this magnificent structure hardly possesses an ecclesiastical character. The form is nearly that of a Greek cross , 373 ft. in length and 277 ft. in breadth , sur- mounted by a majestic dome (281 ft. in height), terminating in a lantern, and surrounded by a gallery and balustrade. The por- tico , which is approached by a flight of 11 steps, occupying the entire breadth of the edifice, is supported by a triple row of handsome Corinthian columns, 64 ft. in height. The Pediment above the portico , 135 ft. in length and 23 ft. in height, contains a fine * group in high relief by David d' An- gers. The principal figure, 16 ft. in height, represents France in the act of distributing garlands to her sons; to the 1., under the protection of Liberty , several illustrious civilians are repre- sented : Malesherbes, Mirabeau, Monge, and Fenelon; then Ma- nuel, Carnot, the celebrated general of engineers, and leader of the wars of the first revolution, Berthollet, the chemist, and 152 21. PANTHEON. Laplace, the mathematician. A second row consists of the painter David, Cuvier, Lafayette , Voltaire, Rousseau, and the physician Bichat. To the r. , beside a figure emblematic of History, are soldiers of the republic and of the empire, among them Bonaparte , as leader of the Italian army ; behind him a stern old grenadier leaning on his musket , emblematic of Service. ' In front of the entrance are two groups in sandstone by Maindron, representing Ste. Genevieve inducing Attila, the leader of the Huns, to abstain from devastating Paris, and the baptism of the Franconian king Clovis by St. Remigius. For the ascent of the Dome (see below) and the inspection of the vaults two tickets must be procured here , the former costing 30, the latter 50 c. One of the custodians in the 1. aisle points out the way. The interior consists of a spacious rotunda, flanked by a gallery supported by Corinthian columns. The names of those who fell in the revolution of 1830 were formerly engraved on the pillars in gilded letters , but are now concealed by the new wainscoting. The nave and transepts are adorned with copies of eight of the frescoes in the Vatican by Raphael and Michael Angelo. The staircase leading to the Dome (accessible 11 — 5 o'clock only ; card of admission see above) is in the left transept. The interior of the dome is first reached by 328 steps. The visitor will here have an opportunity of inspecting the painting by Gros , executed in 1824 , for which the artist received a remuneration of 100,000 fr. This fine composition, which covers a superficies of 3698 sq. ft., represents Ste. Gene- vieve receiving homage from Clovis , the first Christian monarch of France , Charlemagne , St. Louis , and Louis XVIII. In the heavenly regions above are represented Louis XVI. , Marie Antoinette, Louis XVII. , and Madame Elisabeth , the 'martyrs of the revolution'. A farther ascent of 94 steps leads to the gallery, which com- mands a magnificent and extensive view , but less picturesque than the prospect from the Tour St. Jacques or that commanded by Notre Dame, as from this point the course of the Seine and the bridges are not visible. The entrance to the Vaults (Caveaux; open 11 — 4y 2 o'clock; card of admission see above) is behind the high altar. They are supported by 20 pillars, and are separated by immured walls into several divisions. Mirabeau was the first whose remains were deposited here, April 5th, 1791. Near him was placed Marat, the most furious of the Jacobins , who fell July 13th , 1793 , by the hand of Charlotte Corday. Subsequently, however, both the bodies were 21. PANTHEON. 153 removed by order of the Convention; Mirabeau was reinterred in the cemetery of Pere Lachaise, whilst the remains of Marat were ignominiously cast into the sewers of the Rue Mont- martre , near the Passage du Saumon of the present day. About the same period monuments were here erected to Voltaire and Rousseau; the former, L aux manes de Voltaire\ bears the inscription : 'Poefe , historien , philosophe , il agrandit V esprit humain et lui apprit, quit devait etre Libre, li defendit Calas, Sirven, de la Barre et Montbailly ; combattit les athees et les fanatiques ; il inspira la tolerance; il reclama les droits de I'homme contre la servitude de la feodalite. The sarcophagus of Rousseau bears the inscription : L lci repose I'homme de la nature et de la verite ; issuing from it is represented a hand with a burning torch , a somewhat inappropriate emblem of the 'light' which the great philosopher diffused around him. Both these tombs are, however, empty , the remains of the two philosophers having been secretly removed after the Restoration, and interred in some unknown spot. Opposite to the tomb of Voltaire is that of Soufflot (d. 1781 ), the architect of the Pantheon. Napoleon I. also caused several of the most eminent men of his time to be interred here; among others may be mentioned Lagrange, the mathematician, Bougainville , the circumnavigator, Marshal Lannes, and a number of senators. In the centre of these vaults a remarkably loud echo may be awakened by the faintest sound. — A model of the edifice in plaster of Paris is also shown. The Pantheon was one of the head-quarters of the insurgents in June , 1848 , and w T as obstinately defended during two days against the attacks of the troops and the National Guard. The barricades in the vicinity were, however, soon demolished by the cannonade, and the insurgents compelled to yield. Opposite to the portico is situated the Mairie du 5 e Arron- dissement , erected in 1849 , and on the other side the Ecole de Droit, the seat of the legal faculty of the university (p. 150), the latter erected by Soufflot, the architect of the Pantheon. The lectures are public. Vacation in September and October. On the N. side is situated the spacious edifice , erected by Labrouste and completed in 1850 , which contains the Library of Ste. Genevieve. On the walls are inscribed a long series of names of eminent literary men of all nations. In the medallions the monogram S. G. (Ste. Genevieve) frequently recurs. The vestibule is adorned with busts of St. Bernard, Montaigne, Pascal, Moliere, Lafontaine, Bossuet, Massillon, Voltaire, BufTon, Laplace, Cuvier , Mirabeau, Rousseau, Montesquieu, Fenelon, Racine, Corneille, Poussin, Descartes, L'Hopital. The inscription over the staircase is as follows : Bibliotheque 154 22. JARDIN DES PLANTES. Sainte Genevieve fondee par les Genovefains en 1624, devenue propriete nationale en 1790, transferee de Vancienne abbaye dans cet edifice en I860. The wall of the staircase is adorned with a copy (by Blaze) of the School of Athens in the Vatican by Ra- phael, and medallions in fresco emblematic of Poetry , Theology, Philosophy, and Justice. The upper ^Library Hall , the finest saloon of this description in Paris , in which iron is admirably adapted to architectural purposes, is upwards of 300 ft. in length, . 60 ft. in breadth, and 40 ft. in height. The double arched roof is supported by a series of graceful iron columns resting on stone basements, between which and along the walls the bookcases are arranged. Long rows of tables, capable of accommodating 420 per- sons, are placed here for the convenience of readers. The library is open to the public from 10 till 3 o'clock, for students from 6 to 10 p. m. The collection of books , which are judiciously arranged in the upper, as well as in the lower apartments, was originated by Cardinal La Rochefoucauld in 1624, and now consists of up- wards of 200,000 printed books and 7000 MSS. Among the former are a considerable number of 'incunabulae 1 , or specimens of the earliest period of printing , when the art was still in its infancy ('in cunabulis') , and a valuable series of periodicals from the 17th cent, to the period of the empire. — Vacation from Sept. 1st to Oct. 15th. St. Etienne da Mont, the handsome, late-Gothic church in the vicinity, with a portico in the Renaissance style, see p. 175. 22. Jar din des Plexites. The horticultural portion is open daiy from daybreak to dusk, the zoological (Menagerie) from 11 to 5 (Sundays till 6) o'clock between March 1st and Oct. 31st, from 11 to 4 during the re- mainder of the year (sometimes , however , closed in winter and in unfavourable weather). When the weather is such as to render it necessary that the animals should be kept under cover , the visitor requires a card of admission in order to obtain access to the interior of the buildings (1 — 4 o'clock). This card is obtained gratis at the office of the Administration, opposite the Fontaine Cuvier (p. 156), not far from the entrance to the gardens, by showing a passport or visiting-card. The animaux feroces are fed at 2 or 3 o'clock, according to the season , to see which tickets must be obtained in the same way at the office of the Administration. The Museum of Natural History (comprising zoological , bo- tanical, geological, mineralogical, and anatomical collections) is open to the public on Tuesd. and Thursd. from 2 to 5, on Sund. from 1 to 5, in winter till 4 o'clock; strangers are admitted on 22. JARDIN DES PLANTES. 155 Tuesd., Thursd., and Sat. from H to 2 by ticket, obtained at the Administration. The Hot-houses (Serves) are accessible on Mond., Wed., and Thursd. from 10 to 2 and from 3 to 6 o'clock , by card of ad- mission, obtained as above. Near the botanical gallery is a Cafe, in front of which stands the oldest acacia in Europe , having been planted by Robin, gardener of Louis XI1L, the first introducer of the tree (Robinia Pseudacacia). — Restaurants near theJardin desPlantes, see p. 14. The visitor is re ommended to enter the garden by the gate opposite the Fontaine Cuvier (comp. p. 156). The *Jardin desPlantes, situated on the S.E. side of Paris, extends from E. to W., from the Pont d'Austerlitz (which after the entrance of the Allies into Paris received the name of Pont du Roi, and is inscribed with the names of the officers who fell at AusterlitV) to the Rue Geoffroy St. Hilaire, a distance of nearly 700 yds.; -its greatest breadth, near the E. extremity, is about 400 yds. Almost everything connected with natural science which Paris contains appears to be here concentrated: living plants and animals , rare collections , laboratories , library , etc. The lectures , to which the public have gratuitous access , are delivered in the Amphitheatre , a saloon capable of containing 1200 persons. At the entrances to the garden and at the doors of the amphitheatre lists of the lectures are usually posted up; they comprise zoology , physiology, anatomy, chemistry , physical science , mineralogy , geology , and botany , and are given by a staff of about 15 professors. Scientific men of European celebrity have received their education here ; among others may be men- tioned the eminent botanists de Jussieu (Bernard d. 1776, Lau- rent d. 1836, Adrien d. 1853), the mineralogists Daubenton (d. 1799) and Hauy (d. 1822), and the zoologists Buffon (d. 1788), Lacepede (d. 1826), Cuvier (d. 1832), and Geoffroy St. Hilaire (d. 1844). The project of laying out the Jardin des Plantes was first formed in 1626 , and steps for putting it into execution were taken by Guy de Labrosse about 1635. In 1732 the celebrated Buffon became director of the gardens , and was the originator of all the collections of the present day. He died here in July 1788, whilst in the zenith of his reputation. His successor was Bernardin de St. Pierre, under whose aus- pices (1794) the animals preserved in the menageries of Versailles and Raincy were transferred to the 'Jardin du Rof , as this garden was then termed. Under Napoleon I., a great promoter of the cultivation of natural science, the collections were considerably enlarged. in 1805 Humboldt presented a collection of 4500 tropical plants, brought by him from America. 3000 of which belonged 156 22. JARDIN DES PL ANTES. to species hitherto unknown. To his intercession the garden was indebted for its preservation from injury on the entrance of the allied troops into Paris in 1814. During the siegj of Paris by the Prussians in 1870 — 71 , the garden suffered seriously in various respects. Ambulances were at that time, as well as sub- sequently under the Commune, established here, and when the citizens w ere driven to extremities by famine , the authorities directed a number of the animals to be sold to the butchers (elephant, camel, buffaloes, fowls , etc.). The gardens are now more correctly termed the 1 Museum d'Histoite Naturelle, although the original name is still commonly employed. Opposite to the N.W. entrance , at the corner of the Rue St. Victor and the Rue Cuvier, stands the Fontaine Cuvier, erected during the reign of Louis Philippe. The figure in a sitting posture , with the inscription 1 return cognoscete causas', as well as the figures of animals, indicate the object which the natural sciences have in view. Entering the gardens by this gate, the visitor immediately as- cends by the tortuous paths of the Labyrinth ta the L Glotiette\ a pavilion erected on the summit of a slight eminence which was once a heap of rubbish thrown here by the inhabitants of the Quartier St. Victor. On one of the pillars , under the sun-dial, is the inscription: l Hotas non numeto nisi setenas'. Ql count none but the bright hours'.) The view from this point comprises a large portion of the city and its environs in the direction of Montmartre, Vincennes, and Sceaux. On the E. slope of the eminence is a magnificent cedar of Lebanon, the first seen in France, presented in 1734 by Dr. Col- linson, an English physician, and planted here the following year by the elder de Jussieu. It now measures upwards of 11 ft. in circumference, and is still in a thriving condition. At the foot of the slope is a monument to the memory of Daubenton (d. 1799), a scientific man of high reputation, and formerly a superintendent of the collections of the Jardin des Plantes. In the vicinity is situated the Administration, or manager's office, where, on exhibiting a passport (or visiting-card), strangers are provided with cards of admission (p. 154).' The Zoological Museum (Gaieties de Zoologie), adjoining the labyrinth to the S., is upwards of 400 ft. in length, with the entrance in the centre. Extensive as the building is, it hardly suffices to contain the numerous collections. The building, which contains the Libtaty, and the Geological, Minetalogical, and Botanical Collections, is 580 ft. in length, and consists of a single story only. The vestibule of the Geological D ep attment contains a large fresco recently executed , representing scenes from the Arctic regions. The E. and W. sides of the hall are also adorned 22. JARDIN DES PLANTES. with paintings: the limestone cliffs of the Fletschberg, and the fall of the Staubbach near Lauterbrunnen, alluvial land formed by the Aare between Meiringen and Brienz; E., the Rosenlaui Glacier in the Bernese Oberland, the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 1822, the volcanic islands of Stromboli (Lipari Islands), basaltic lava near the waterfall of Quereil in the Department of Puy de Dome, relief of the island of Reunion, executed 1845 — 52; statue of Yermak, 'conquerant de la Siberie', in Siberian graphite. In the centre of the hall a statue of Cuvier in marble , by David d 1 Angers. This collection is admirably arranged, and affords every facility to visitors who desire to examine it minutely. At the entrance to the B otanical Department stands a statue of Adrien de Jussieu, by He'ral. Non-professional visitors will find this collection similar, and in some respects inferior, to that at Kew: specimens of wood , bark , roots , models of fruit, fossil plants, etc. The following objects of interest deserve special mention : models in wax of fungi, executed by Pinson, presented to Charles X. by the Emperor of Austria, and valued at 1000 I. ; huge trunks of palm-trees ; a large round table formed of a solid slab of the wood of the Baobab tree. The Library , consisting of works on natural history, and comprising a valuable collection of MSS. and original drawings, is situated in the 8.W. wing of the building above mentioned. The Cabinet, of Comparative Anatomy , situated on the N. side of the garden, contains human and other skeletons, anatomical sections of animals, casts of the heads of criminals, as well as of eminent musicians, authors, etc. In the court skeletons of large sea-fish, a whale, etc. The Zoological Museum (Menagerie; admission see p. 154) is the most frequented part of the entire establishment. An idea of its arrangements will be best formed by consulting the annexed plan. The pentagonal building in the centre (Rotonde des grands animaux) contains the large graminivorous animals: ele- phants, giraffes, hippopotami, etc. ; in the ong building on the W. side are kept the beasts of prey (animaux feroces): lions, tigers, hyenas, wolves, etc. The interior arrangements of the different • cages and pavilions can only be inspected by special permission (p. 154) , or in some cases by a trifling fee to the attendant. The large semicircular Palais des Singes ('palace of monkeys') is a constant source of attraction to spectators. The same may be said of the Bears' Den (Fosse aux ours), 'Martin' (named after his prede- cessor brought from Berne) being frequently called upon to exhibit his uncouth gambols. The confined space in front of the Elephant's Cage is always crowded, its inmate being an unfailing source of amusement. 158 23. THE GOBELINS. Birds and Snakes, Crocodiles, Chameleons, and Tortoises are kept in cages and sheds on the N. side of the garden. The Botanic Garden is intersected by three beautiful avenues of lime and chestnut-trees, and perfumed with the fragrance of the choicest flowers , which render it one of the most delight- ful promenades in Paris. — Kitchen-herbs are denoted by green labels , medical plants by red , poisonous plants by black , those employed in dyeing by blue, and ornamental plants by yellow. The Nursery of Forest-trees occupies the S.E. side of the garden. 23. The Gobelins. The 'Manufactures de tapisseries des Gobelins et de tapis de la Savonnerie 3 , Avenue des Gobelins (formerly Rue Mouffetard), was entirely destroyed on May 25th , 1871 , having been set on Are by the insurgents after they had been driven from the position they occupied at La Butte-aux-Cailles in the vicinity. Some of the most valuable pieces of tapestry had been removed to a place of safety before the war , but the greater part of the valuable collection preserved here was destroyed. It is probable that the establishment will be re-erected , but a considerable time must necessarily elapse before it can be re-opened. At the S.E. extremity of Paris, on the 1. bank of the Seine, the brook la Bievre skirts the city, and falls into the Seine above the Pont d'Austerlitz. During several centuries its water has been considered peculiarly adapted for dyeing purposes. In 1450 Jean Gobelin erected a dyeing establishment on its banks, which was combined by his successors with a manufactory of tapestry. These manufacturers had acquired such a high reputation about the middle of the 17th cent., that Colbert, the minister of Louis XIV., and an active promoter of industrial enterprise, caused the establishment to be purchased and carried on at the expense of government. After the lapse of years, however, the manufactory was found to yield profits totally inadequate to the expense of its mainten- ance. It was therefore converted into an etablishment for the exclusive supply of the family of the reigning monarch with the choicest fabrics which art can produce. Its manufactures were also presented as gifts to foreign courts, persoi ages of high rank, ambassadors, etc. The same remarks apply to the Savonnerie, a carpet manu- factory founded in 1604 by Marie de Medicis, which derived its appellation from having been originally established in a soap manufactory , but was in 1826 transferred to the same building as the Gobelins. About 150 workmen were employed in these establishments, each of whom received 1000 — 3000 fr. per annum. These were 24. HOTEL DES MONNAIES. 159 of course all intelligent men of a superior class , and styled themselves 'artistes-ouvriers'. Work of this description requires the utmost patience and the most practised eye, although there is little scope for originality, the object being simply to imitate paintings and other designs accurately. An area of 6 sq. inches was the average daily task of each workman. Many years were therefore sometimes re- quisite for the execution of the larger designs, which when com- plete were worth 2000 — 6000 k The perfection , however , to which the art had attained is truly astonishing, and its results may be not inaptly compared to literary works translated from some foreign language by a masterly hand. The buildings in which the manufactory was established were formerly in a most unattractive situation in the long Rue MourTetard, inhabited by the poorest classes only, and the head-quarters of rag-collectors (chiffonniers) ; but the S. portion of the old street has been removed to make way for the broad and handsome Avenue des Gobelins. At the S. extremity of the Rue MourTetard, where the Avenue des Gobelins commences, is situated the church of St. Medard, containing the 'wonder-working' shrine of a certain Abbe Paris, to which in 1732 Louis XV. forbade pilgrimages to be made. This gave rise to the witticism : L De par le Roi, defense a Dieu, De faire miracle en ce lieu/ The S. continuation of the Avenue des Gobelins is termed the Avenue d'ltalie. ' The Prison Disciplinaire situated here (No. 38) was the scene of a horrible tragedy on May 25th, 1871. On May 19th the Commune had arrested the peaceful and unoffending Dominicans who presided over the school Albert le Grand at Arcueil (S. of Paris), and incarcerated them in the Fort de Bicetre. On the 25th they were transferred to the above-mentioned prison, whence they were conducted to the nearest barricade. The in- surgents, however, being compelled to retreat, again consigned their victims to the prison. A few minutes later they desired them to quit the prison one by one, and each as he emerged into the street was shot dead. The entire staff of the establishment, monks, professors, and domestics, 19 in number, were thus cruelly and wantonly murdered in cold blood. 24. Hotel des Monnaies. One half of the space on the Quai Conti, between the Pont Neuf and the Pont des Arts, is occupied by the extensive build- ings (completed in 1755) of the Mint, upwards of 120 yds. in length, and usually known as La Monnaie. The exhibition-rooms are open to the public on Tuesdays and Fridays from 12 to 3 160 25. INSTITUT DE FRANCE. o'clock ; the mint itself, the work-rooms, laboratories, etc. are accessible on the same days at the same hours by special per- mission only, for which application should be made to 'Monsieur le President de la Commission des Monnaies et des Me*dailles, a l'Hotel des Monnaies'. (Comp. form given at p. 162). The staircase to the r. in the vestibule ascends to the exhibi- tion-rooms. Beginning on the left-hand side in the principal room, the visitor will perceive an interesting collection of medals, arranged chronologically, from the time of Charlemagne down to the present day. Those of the reign of Louis XIV. and Louis Philippe are especially numerous ; the first case by the window also con- tains medals of Luther, Bucer, Melanchthon, and Ignatius Loyola. To the r. are exhibited coins of various states. The last case contains the most ancient, those of the Merovingian period. The three cases by the window to the r. contain a series of smaller medals (jetons particuliers). The following rooms contain models of dies, a collection of medals of the period of the consulate and the empire, and others in commemoration of the German campaigns of 1805 — 1807. , A model of the Vendome Column, which is placed here, with the statue of the emperor in his coronation robes, affords the visitor a better opportunity of examining the reliefs and other details than the original itself. Here, too, is a bust of Napoleon L by Canova, executed in 1806, and a cast of the emperor's face taken 20 hours after death. The upper apartments contain a collection of old dies, royal seals, and other objects of little interest. The Laboratoire and Ateliers, with their steam-engines, furnaces, and machinery, are well worth visiting. The coining-machines, the invention of M. Thonnelier, are highly ingenious. — In the same establishment are performed all the operations of assaying and stamping the gold and silver wares of the jewellers, as well as the coining of private medals and counters, an especial privi- lege of the Parisian mint. Pont Neuf, see p. 108. 25. Institut de France. This singular looking edifice is situated on the Quai Conti (No. 23), on the 1. bank of the Seine, at the S. extremity of the Pont des Arts, and opposite to the Louvre. It has two lateral projecting pavillions with arcades and is surmounted by a dome ; the approach is adorned with a fountain and two figures of lions. The institution was originally founded by Cardinal Mazarin for the education of youths from the newly acquired provinces of Koussillon, Pignerol, Flanders, and Alsace. It was erected in the 25. INSTITUT DE FRANCE. 161 Latter half of the 17th cent., and occupies the site of the Tour de Nesle, the traditional scene of many a dark tragedy. Though originally called the College Mazarin, it was popularly known as the College des Quatre Nations. During the revolution it was converted into a prison, but in 1795 was ceded by the Convention to the Academies, or societies of savants, who had hitherto held their sessions in the Louvre, and its appellation changed. The Institut de France embraces five departments: 1. The Academie Francaise, the principal task of which is the supervision of the French language, and its orthography, and the publication of the Dictionnaire de V Academie, consisting of 40 members. The annual session takes place in May, the weekly meetings every Thursday, 2^2 — o'clock. 2. The Academie des Inscriptions et Belles Lettres is devoted to the study of the ancient languages and to archaeological re- search ; 40 members. Secretary M. C. Guigniaut. Annual session in July, weekly meetings eve*ry Friday, 3 — 5 o'clock. 3. The Academie des Sciences (mathematics and natural science) consists of 63 members. Secretary for the first of these branches M. Elie de Beaumont, for the second M. 0. Dumas. Annual session at the end of December; weekly meetings, to which the public are admitted, every Monday, 3 — 5 o'clock. 4. The Academie des Beaux Arts (painting, sculpture, archi- tecture, musical composition) consists of 40 members. Secretary M. Beule. Annual session on the first Saturday in October ; weekly meetings every Saturday, 3 — 0 o'clock. 5. The Academie des Sciences Morales et Politiques (philosophy, history, political economy) has 40 members. Secretary M. Mignet. Annual session in April ; weekly meetings every Saturday, 12 — 2 o'clock. The Institut therefore numbers 223 members, whose com- plement is replenished by election when necessary. Each member receives an annual sum of 1500 fr. The title of 'Membre de Llnstitut' is the object of the highest aspirations of every lite- rary and scientific Frenchman. Strangers, and especially the learned, will find a visit to some of these meetings in the Palais de V Institut of the highest interest. They will have an admirable opportunity of hearing discussions in which the most eminent French savants take part. The grand session of the five departments combined is held on Aug. loth (Napoleon's Day) in a hall which was formerly the church, when the annual distribution of prizes takes place. By a decree of April, 1855, the period of the annual session of each academy separately is determined by the minister of instruction. Strangers obtain access to these meetings by addressing a Baedeker. Paris. 3rd Edition. \\ 162 26. ECOLE DES BEAUX ARTS. written application to the secretary of the department they de- sire to visitf. Strangers are not admitted to the valuable and admirably arranged Library of the Tnstitut unless accompanied by a member. A second library, the Bibliotheque Mazarine (in the first court, to the J. of the entrance), contains 120,000 vols., 50,000 MSS., and many valuable antiquities and curiosities. Admission daily from 10 to 3 o'clock. Vacation from Sept. 15th to Nov. 1st. 26. Ecole des Beaux Arts. In the immediate vicinity of the Institut de France, on the W. side, is situated the Ecole des Beaux Arts, entrance Rue Bonaparte 14, accessible daily from 10 to 4 o'clock (fee 1 fr.); in September on Wed., Thursd., and Frid. only. The fine arts taught here are painting, sculpture, engraving, gem-cutting, and architecture. The edifice, completed in 1838, is admirably adapted for its purpose. It occupies the site* of the former monastery des Petits Augustins. A railing separates the court of the Ecole des Beaux Arts from the Rue Bonaparte. At the entrance are colossal busts of Puget and Poussin, by Mercier. The Court contains numerous, and among them several ad- mirable, Fragments of French Edifices, portals, cornices, etc., from the Gallo-Roman period down to the 16th cent. These are rem- nants of the Musee des Monuments Francais, founded here at the time of the first revolution by the indefatigable painter Alex. Lenoir, and consisting of interesting monuments and fragments rescued from the ruins of churches and chateaux. In 1816 Louis XVIII. dispersed the collection, and ordered most of the tombstones to be restored to their original positions. Many frag- ments however still remain here. In the centre of the court is a Corinthian column in marble, surmounted by a • bronze statue of Abundance. Immediately to the r. the celebrated portal of the Chateau d'Anet, which Henry II. caused to be erected in 1548, f The application may be worded as follows : 'Monsieur, je prends la liberte, en qualite d'etranger, de vous prier de vouloir bien m'autoriser a assister a la prochaine seance de rAcademie des . . . Serait-ce abuser de votre obligeance que de vous prier de vouloir bien adresser cette autorisation a Tadresse ci-dessous. Veuillez bien, Monsieur, excuser mon importunite et recevoir a Tavance les remerciments de votre tres-humble serviteur 1 . Name, profession, and address should be written very distinctly, and the letter prepaid (postage 10 c). For one of the weekly meetings the address is : L A Monsieur le Secretaire perpetuel de TAcademie des . . . (men- tioning the name of the department) au Palais de rinstitut 1 ; for one of the annual sessions : L A Monsieur le Chef du Secretariat de rinstitut, au Palais de rinstitut 1 . 26. ECOLE DES BEAUX ARTS. 163 by Jean Goujon and Philibert Delorme, for Diana of Poitiers, forms the entrance to the former abbey church. The latter contains a fine copy by Sigalon of Michael Angelo's Last Judgment, and a number of casts of celebrated antiques and works by Michael Angelo. In the court, adjacent to the portal, some fragments built into the wall once belonged to the Hotel de la Tremouille, which formerly stood in the Rue des Bourdonnais, and are interesting as relics of a line edifice of the 14th cent. The first court is divided into two portions by the Arc de Gaillon, the facade of a partly Gothic, partly Renaissance palace of that name (p. 233) erected in 1500 by Cardinal d'Amboise, minister of Louis XII. It was carefully transported hither and re-erected by M. Lenoir. Beyond it are a number of statues copied from antiques by young French sculptors at Rome. The Principal Building , which bounds this court on the W. side, is upwards of 80 yds. in length. The *Facade, designed by Duban, and completed in 1838, is a characteristic example of the French style of architecture, based on the better Italian Renaissance, formerly in vogue, but now neglected. Three rooms in the upper story contain works of all the pupils since 1721 who have been selected to be sent to Rome ; in others are portraits of professors, and models of ancient structures in plaster or cork : the amphitheatres of Aries and Orange, the Colosseum, the Baths of Augustus, the leaning tower of Pisa, etc. The amphitheatricai examination-hall, the most interesting part of the establishment, contains a celebrated ^picture by Paul Delaroche (d. 1856), painted on the 'hemicycle' of the wall. The greater number of the 75 figures represent celebrated artists of all ages and nations, slightly over life-size. On a lofty throne in the centre, as representatives of the three arts, are the three great Greek masters, Phidias the sculptor, Iktinos, the architect of the Parthenon, and Apelles the painter. Four female figures in front of these represent (1.) Greek and Gothic, (r.) Roman and Renaissance art. The Muse of Gothic art with long fair hair is a portrait of the artist's wife, a daughter of Horace Vernet. Among the artists are (to the L of the centre) the French sculptors Puget and Goujon ; then Benvenuto Cellini ; by the first column Peter Vischer of Nuremberg with a cap ; then the French painters Poussin and Claude Lorrain, and Spanish, Flemish, and several Italian masters. Then (to the r. of the centre) architects, among them Erwin of Steinbach, architect of Strassburg cathedral ; next, Diirer, Holbein, and the great Italian masters Leonardo da Vinci, Michael Angelo, Raphael, etc. Delaroche was engaged 3 { / 2 years on this work, for which he received 80,000 fr. — A large and admirably executed engraving from this picture may be obtained at the magazine of Goupil et Comp., Boulevart Montmartre 19, the epreuves d J artiste at 600 fr. ; epreuves avec la lettre 150 fr. 11 * 164 26. £COLE DES BEAUX ARTS. An additional facade to the Ecole des Beaux Arts owards the quay was constructed in 1861. While in this neighbourhood the traveller is recommended next to visit the Muse'e d'Artillerie (see below), if disposed, and then to inspect the scene of devastation presented by the Rue du Bac, the Rue de Lille, and the Quai d'Orsay, where a long- series of conflagrations raged with irresistible fury on May 22nd to 28th, 1871. In the Rue du Bar no fewer than eighteen houses, set on fire by the Communists, were destroyed, and seventeen met with the same fate in the Rue de Lille. The diabolical scheme of destruction appears, however, to have been directed chiefly against the public buildings in this quarter. The principal of these were the Quartier (or Caserne) Bonaparte, the Cour des Comptes and Conseil d'Etat, and the Palais de la Legion d'Honneur, all situated in the Rue de Lille, with facades towards the Seine on the opposite side. These three extensive and important edifices were among the first doomed to destruction, and were carefully prepared for their fate by the sinister operations of the 'petroleurs' and 'petroleuses'. The latter especially exhibited the most demoniacal zeal and cunning in the -execution of their task, gaining access to private houses, entering shops, cellars, etc. under various pretexts, for the purpose of pouring out their concealed supplies of the in- flammable fluid. The above named buildings were almost entirely destroyed, little more than the external walls having survived the conflagration, and their ruins may be surveyed either from the Rue de Lille or the Quai d'Orsay. The Palais de la Legion d'Honneur, of which the exterior suffered less severely, was erected by Prince Salm-Kyrburg in 1786, and is historically interesting as the scene of Mme. de StaeTs reunions during the Directory. The Hotel du Corps Le*gislatif (p. 166) was struck in different places by projectiles during the sieges of 1870 — 71, but has otherwise escaped injury. The adjoining Ministere des Affaires Etranyeres, however, shared the fate of those above named, part of the building having been entirely gutted by the fire, while the remainder was seriously damaged. Here in the aristocratic Quartier St. Germain, as well as in the wealthy and prosperous Rue Royale, the Rue Rivoli, etc., the rage of the Communists was directed prin- cipally against the property of government, and that of persons of rank and influence. 165 27. Musee d'Artillerie. Church of St. Thomas d'Aquin. Since the year 1797 the Depot Central d'Artillerie has been established in an edifice which was formerly a convent of the Jacobins, adjoining the church of St. Thomas d'Aquin. The spacious apartments of this extensive building contain work-shops, laboratories, models, maps, plans, etc., as well as a highly inter- esting museum, connected with the artillery service. The last- named department is open (gratuitously) to the public on Thurs- days from 12 to 4 o'clock. The custodians are usually discharged non-commissioned officers. The number of objects contained in the Musee d'Artillerie is upwards of 4000, for the thorough examination of which a cata- logue (472 fr-) 1S indispensable. In the passage of the basement-story, the former cloisters of the ancient convent, is suspended the Chatne da Danube, 630 ft. in length and about 8000 lbs. in weight, which was employed by the Turks during the siege of Vienna in 1683 for the purpose . of cutting off all communication with the city by water. It formed part of the spoil brought from Vienna by the French in 1805. Another similar chain is preserved in the imperial armoury at Vienna. In the court are Russian anchors and cannons from Sebastopol; also a cannon from the former Electorate of Treves, once planted on the fortress of Ehrenbreitstein. The Entrance Passage contains 12 different kinds of breech-loading apparatus, presented by the celebrated German manufacturer Krupp. Ground Floor. A hall here contains a collection of weapons, gun-barrels, projectiles, models of gun-carriages, etc. from the time of Louis XIV. down to the present day. Here, too, is pre- served one of the Russian torpedoes which in 1854 and 1855 oc- casioned considerable damage to the French and English fleets before Cronstadt. In a glass ^ase at the end of the hall are kept the arms of the Emperor of China, brought from Pekin in 1860 ; adjacent to it, his saddle, Japanese and Mongolian weapons, and other trophies of the Chinese campaign. On the walls are a number of fire-arms of different European states. — To the 1. at the end of the hall is a second room containing mediieval armour, Greek and Roman helmets, and a collection of weapons of the flint-period. The Upper Story consists of the hall of armour and four galleries forming a square. The first of these contains nu- merous specimens of armour, most of them of the loth and 16th centuries, coats of mail, shields, helmets, and weapons. Ancient weapons of flint, and other curious and valuable relics are preserved in glass cases. The First Gallery (in a straight direction) contains guns and pistols with flint-locks, cross-bows, etc. In the glass cabinet are 1.66 28. PALAIS DU CORPS LEGISLATIF. preserved oriental weapons , some of them richly decorated with jewels. Above it several trophies from the Crimean war. The Second Gallery contains fire-arms, lances, and halberds. In the glass cabinet, firelocks and flint guns of the 16th — 18th cent. The small glass cases by the window contain some historically interesting weapons. Ancient and modern guns and pistols of rich workmanship: No. 1831. Indian gun; Nos. 1838—1848. Guns from Algiers; No. 1849. A gun inlaid with gold and pre- cious stones, manufactured at Rotterdam, and destined by Napo- leon I. as a present for the Dey of Morocco. In the Third Gallery are more modern fire-arms of various descriptions. In glass cabinets, Etruscan and Roman arms. The Fourth Gallery contains swords, rapiers, poniards, halberds, falchions. The contiguous church of St. Thomas d'Aquin, erected 1740, is the parish church of the aristocratic Faubourg St. Germain. It possesses little to interest the stranger , with the exception of a few good pictures : in the choir frescoes by Blondel , and the Ascension, painted on the ceiling, by Lemoine; Descent from the Cross by Guillemot; St. Thomas Aquinas calming a storm, by Ary Scheffer; Christ on the Mount of Olives, a landscape by E. Berlin. Sainte Clotilde, the modern Gothic church of the Faubourg St. Germain, see p. 177. 28. Palais du Corps Legislatif. The Place de la Concorde is connected with the 1. bank of the Seine by a bridge of the same name , opposite to which is situated the posterior facade of the Palais du Corps Legislatif, an edifice in the style of a Greek temple, adorned with allegorical statues and reliefs. In front of the principal facade in the Rue de l'Universite is a marble statue by Feucheres representing Law, erected in 1855 by a minister of the Emperor. The palace, formerly Palais Bourbon, was commenced by Girardini in 1722 for the dowager Duchess of Bourbon, and continued by Mansard. The Prince of Conde expended 20 mil- lion fr. on the edifice. In 1795 the Council of Five Hundred held their sittings here, and subsequently the Chamber of Depu- ties, whose president resided in the palace. Access daily (gra- tuity of 1 fr. or more). The principal saloons in the palace (entrance from the river) are : the Salle de la Paix, with ceiling painted by Horace Vernet, and several copies of antiques; Salle du Trone, now disused ; in the Salle Casimir Verier are the statues of Mirabeau, and Bailly, the well-known mayor of Paris in 1786, by Jaley, C. Perier by Buret, and General Foy by Desprez ; in the Salle des Conferences, decorated by Heim, a Mazeppa by H. Vernet. The Assemhly Hall, 29. h6tel des invalides. 167 decorated with allegorical statues, has retained its original form. Here, on Feb. 24th, 1848, the Duchess of Orleans with her two sons, the Count of Paris and the Duke of Chartres , appeared before the National Assembly in order to endeavour to secure the throne for them. On May 15th of the same year the National Assembly was expelled hence by the Socialists, and order restored by the National Guard. From 1863 down to the Revolution of 1870 the number of deputies was 283 (under the July kingdom 459). Above the Pont de la Concorde , opposite the Palais de la Legion d'Honneur (p. 165), is situated the Pont de Solferino, constructedin 1858 — 59, inscribed with the names of victories gained in the Crimea. 29. Hotel des Invalides. Napoleon's Tomb. Champ de Mars. Puits Artesien de Grenelles. Manu- facture des Tabacs. One of the most conspicuous objects in Paris is the lofty gilded dome of the Eglise des Invalides, situated at the S.W. ex- tremity of the city, and distinctly visible from every part of it; from a distance the basement appears to be formed by the ex- tensive Hotel itself, which, however, is detached from the church. By a decree of April 15th. 1670, Louis XIV. founded this splendid institution , 'pour assurer une existence heureuse aux militaires qui, vieillards mutiles ou infirmes, se trouveraient sans ressources apres avoir blanchi sous les drapeaux ou verse leur sang pour la patrie '. The structure was commenced in 1671, under the superintendence of the talented architect Liberal Bruant, and completed in 1675. Soldiers disabled by wounds, and those who have served for 30 years are entitled to be received into the establishment. The present number of inmates considerably exceeds 2000, of whom about 160 are officers. In case of necessity, however, the insti- tution can accommodate 5000 persons. Besides board and lodging, each inmate receives a small monthly pension, a colonel 30 fr., a major 20 fr., a captain 10 fr., lieutenants and corporals 5 — 3 fr., privates 2 fr. A loaf of excellent white bread and a bottle of good wine are daily distributed to all inmates alike. On Sundays at 12 o'clock military mass is performed in the church , at half past 12 a parade with military music is held in the Cour d'Hon- neur (p. 168). The gate of the court, which is surrounded on three sides by dry moats, 19 ft. in breadth, is approached by the Esplanade des Invalides, a double avenue, about 270 yds. long. The sentinels of the gate are posted in the two guard-houses at the entrance. A 'Batterie Trophee of eighteen guns is here placed, and employed in firing salutes on grand occasions. To the right (facing the Seine) are two French 24-pounders , which in 1837 168 29. HOTEL DES INVALIDES. were employed in the siege of Constantine ; two Austrian can- nons, one cast in 1681, the other in 1580, with the inscription in German : ' When my song resounds in the air , many a wall will fall before me ; four Prussian guns, decorated with the images and names of four Electors; a Dutch 24-pounder , captured at the siege of Antwerp in 1832; four cannons and two howitzers from Sebastopol.; a mortar from Algiers. To the left: the first gun is from Wurtemberg, a master-piece of its kind, decorated with allegorical statuettes, and one of the Duke ; a Venetian piece, of 1708; the remaining pieces correspond to those on the r. side. The remaining portion of the terrace is laid out in small gardens, which it is the privilege of the 'invali'des' to cultivate ; several of them are adorned with small statues of Napoleon I., whose memory is still fondly cherished by the few veterans who still survive him. The Front of this handsome edifice, with its three pavilions, is upwards of 600 ft. in length. At the corners of the lateral pavilions are placed four groups in bronze, by Desjardins, emble- matic of four conquered nations (Burgundy , Germany , Spain, Holland), formerly appertaining to the statue of Louis XIV. in the Place des Victoires, but transferred to their present position in the year 1800. The building consists of three stories ; the dormer-windows are curiously constructed of military trophies in stone, surmounted by helmets. On the tympanum above the entrance is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV. , with the inscription : Ludovicus Magnus militibus , regali munificentia in perpetuum providens , has aedes posuit 1675. In the large inner court with its open arcades, formerly termed the Cour Roy ale, now Cour d'Honneur, the visitor is met by an invalide (1 fr. gratuity), who conducts him through the courts and external portions of the establishment. Different guides (50 c. each) are appointed to show the dining-hall , kitchen , council- chamber, and library. The kitchen and dormitories are similar to those of large barracks. On public days visitors are admitted gratuitously to every part of the establishment. The Arcades of the inner court are partially painted with scenes from the history of France in four epochs: Charlemagne, St. Louis, Louis XIV., and Napoleon I. The Library, founded by Napoleon, contains about 30,000 vols, and several MSS. of Sully and Colbert, a copy of David's picture of Bonaparte crossing the St. Bernard , a fine portrait of Napo- leon III. by Logier, an equestrian statuette of Marshal Turenne, and the Austrian cannon-ball which caused his death near Baden- Baden in 1675 ; also a large plan in relief of the Hotel des In- valides. 29. H6TEL DES INVALIDES. 169 The vestibule of the Council Chamber (Salle du Conseil) is adorned with drawings of flags and banners captured in battle and of the arms of French towns. The adjoining apartments con- tain portraits of the two architects of the edifice. Liberal Bruant and Jules Mansard , and of the following marshals : Lannes, Bessieres, Berthier, Brune, Augereau, Massena, Victor, Lefebvre, Kellermann, Beurnonville, Davoust, Pe'rignon, Due de Coigny, Serrurier, Suchet, Gouvion St. Cyr, Ney, Jourdan, Moncey, Oudi- not, Lauriston, Due de Belle Isle, Due de Broglie, Marquis de Viomenisl; also a portrait of Napoleon I. in his coronation robes, one of Louis XIV., and busts of Napoleon L, Napoleon II. and Prince Jerome. The four spacious Refectories on the ground-floor are adorned with allegorical pictures , most of which have reference to the war of Louis XIV. in the Netherlands (1672). Among others are those representing the capture of Wesel, Emmerich, and Utrecht, towns which were not in a position to defend themselves and surrendered almost without a blow. Most of these paintings are by Martin , a pupil of the prolific Van der Meulen. The plate used at the officers' table was presented by Marie Louise. Patients in the Infirmerie are waited upon by 25 sisters of charity (Sozurs de Vordre de St. Vincent de Paul). The Church at present consists of two separate portions , the Ancienne Eglise (Eglise de St. Louis, eglise des soldats) and the ttglise Nouvelle (Dome des Invalides), the latter constructed by Jules Mansard in 1706. There is no communication between these churches. The old church is entered by a portal on the S. side of the Cour d'Honneur. It consists of a long nave and two low aisles, and is adorned with a number of banners , most of which were captured during the African war under Louis Philippe. The last flag to the r. , with the double eagle , is from Sebastopol ; the white one opposite once waved on the Malakoff tower. During the reign of Napoleon I. nearly 3000 flags adorned the nave. On the evening before the entry of the allied troops into Paris (March 30th, 1814), they were burned in the court to prevent their falling into the hands of the allies, by order of Marshal Clarke (Due de Feltre), at that time minister of war. The order was thrice given before the Invalides could be induced to destroy their cherished trophies. On the same occasion the sword which Napoleon brought from the tomb of Frederick the Great at Potsdam in 1806 was destroyed. On Aug. 12th, 1851, on the occasion of the funeral obsequies of Marshal Sebastiani, several of the remaining flags were accidentally destroyed by fire. Several monuments and memorial tablets on the pillars are inscribed with the names of former governors of the Hotel des Invalides: Comte de Guibert (d. 1786), Due Coigny (d. 1821), 170 29. Hotel des invalided. Marshal Lobau (d. 1838), Marshal Moncey (d. 1842), Marshal Oudinot (d. 1847) with medallion bust, Baron Espagnac (d. 1782), Marshal J our dan (d. 1833). Two bronze tablets record the names of those marshals and officers whose remains repose in the vaults of the church, among; others those of Marshal Mortier, who was killed in 1835 by the explosion of Fieschi's infernal machine in the Boulevart du Temple, and Marshal 1 Jacques Leroy de St. Ar- naud, c.Uef de Varmee de V Orient, decide en mer a bord du Ber- tollef (d. 1854). On Sundays at noon mass is celebrated here, accompanied by the usual Roman Catholic military ceremonies. The Dome des Invalides (entrance on the 8. side, at the back of the building; open gratis on Mond., Tuesd., Thursd., and Sat., 12 — 3 o'clock) consists of a square pile, 190 ft. in breadth, surmounted by a lofty dome, above which rises a lantern and cross, the summit of which is 340 ft. above the pavement. The dome was gilded during the first Empire , and again (by the electro-plating system) in 1861. It is proposed to adorn the facade with statues of Napoleon 1. and 12 of his marshals. The *Tomb of Napoleon I. situated under the dome is an open circular crypt, 20 ft. in depth and 38 ft. in diameter; the walls are of polished slabs of granite , adorned by ten marble reliefs by Simart: i. Restoration of public order; 2. The Con- cordat; 3. The reformed Administration ; 4. State-council; 5. The Code ; 6. The University; 7. Chamber of finance; 8. Encourage- ment of commerce and industry; 9. Public works; 10. The Le- gion of Honour. The twelve colossal figures emblematic of victory were one of the last works of the celebrated Pradier (d. 1852) ; between them are six trophies consisting of 60 flags which had long lain concealed in the Luxembourg. On the pavement are recorded the names of the victories of Rivoli, Pyramides, Ma- rengo, Austerlitz, Jena, Friedland, Wagram, Moskoiva. On the mosaic pavement, which represents a wreath of laurels, rises the sarcophagus , which consists of a single huge block of a kind of reddish-brown sandstone weighing upwards of 60 tons, brought from Lake Ladoga in Finland (the cost of the transport alone is said to have exceeded 140,000 fit.). Immediately above the crypt, at a height of 160 ft., rises the lofty dome, consisting of two cupolas , the higher of which is adorned with a painting by Delafosse, representing St. Louis receiving from Christ the sword with which he vanquished the foes of Christianity. The faint , bluish light admitted from above , and the sombre aspect of the crypt and its adjuncts contribute essentially to the solemn grandeur of the scene. The entrance to the vault from the back of the high altar in the old church consists of a bronze gate flanked by two sarco- phagi, on which are inscribed the names of Duroc and Bertrand, the emperor's faithful friends. The former fell at the battle of 29. H&TEL DKS INVALIDES. 171 Bautzen in 1813, the latter (d. 1844) was the emperor's constant companion in all his compaigns and in his captivity, and accom- panied his remains from St. Helena in 1840 to their final resting- place in the Dome des Invalides. Above the entrance are inscribed these words from the emperor's will: 'Je desire que mes cendres repo sent sur les bords de la Seine, au milieu de ce peuple fran- fais que j'ai tant aime/ To the right and left of the entrance stand two colossal cary- atides in bronze, designed by Buret, one of which bears a globe, the other a sceptre and crown. They are intended to proclaim 'par leur aspect grandiose et imposant, la saintete du lieu on Ton va descendre , et semblent destinees a la garde silencieuse et eternelle du tombeau qui renferme les restes pre'cieux du plus grand capitaine des temps modernes'. The monuments of Vauban and Turenne, with their recumbent figures , the former erected in 1807 , the latter brought from St. Denis, are situated on the r. and 1. of Napoleon's tomb, but sink into insignificance when compared with the latter. The chapel to the 1. of the entrance to the church contains the tomb of Jerome Buonaparte, once King of Westphalia : a sarcophagus with a bronze statue of the prince by Guillaume. A smaller sarcophagus here contains the remains of Jeromes eldest son. — The chapel to the r. of the entrance to the church contains a large sarcophagus of black and white marble on a green pedestal, with the inscription Joseph Napoleon /., once King of Spain. The Artesian Well (Puits Artesien de Grenelle) , situated at the extremity of the Avenue de Breteuil which diverges from the Place Vauban , is interesting even to the non-professional visitor. The well, over which rises a tower 128 ft. in height in the Place de Breteuil, is 1900 ft. in depth, and yields upwards of 200,000 gals, of water daily. This, with three new Artesian wells, of which that of Passy is the most considerable, forms one of the chief sources for the supply of the extensive waterworks of Paris. The Ecole Militaire, near the S. entrance to the Dome des Invalides, was founded in 1751 by Louis XV., 'pour y elever 500 gentilshommes dans toutes les sciences necessaires et con- venables a un officier'. In 1792 it was fitted up as a barrack (for 5000 men and 800 horses). From 1804 to 1830 the Guards were stationed here, and the edifice is still employed as a barrack. In front of the Ecole Militaire, to the N.W., extends the Champ de Mars, a large open space, upwards of 1000 yds. in length and 700 yds. in breadth , surrounded by rows of trees, employed as an exercising-ground, for reviews, etc. It was formerly (till 1861) enclosed by ditches and embankments, in the formation of which no fewer than B0, 000 Parisians of both sexes 172 29. CHAMP Dp: MARS. assisted, in the year 1790. The embankments were then furnished with row.s of seats, thus enabling hundreds of thousands of the people to witness the celebrated Fete de la Federation, which took place on July 14th of the same year. In front of the Ecole Militaire was erected the Autel de la Patrie, where the king, the national assembly, and the representatives of the army and the provinces, swore fidelity to the new constitution. Talleyrand, Bishop of Autun , with 400 of the clergy , officiated in the re- ligious portion of the ceremony. The rejoicings on this occasion were universal , as it was believed that the troubles of the re- volution were now happily terminated. A similar festival, the famous Champ de Mai, was celebrated with the utmost pomp by Napoleon, June 1st, 1815, and was attended with the same formalities. Here too, August, 1830, Louis Philippe presented colours to the National Guard, and in 1852 Napoleon III. distributed to the army the Eagles which were to replace the Gallic Cock. All the principal military reviews and parades were formerly held in the Champ de Mars, but are for the present discontinued. These occasions afforded the stranger an opportunity of seeing some of the most distinguished personages in France. The best point of observation was the Pont d'lena, on the side nearest to the left bank of the river. Ordinary drill generally takes place on Fridays. The races which formerly took place here were subsequently held on the new race-courses of Longchamps and the park of Vincennes, but have been temporarily discontinued. On the Quai d'Orsay (Nr. 63) , a short distance below the Pont des Jnvalides (two statues on which represent Navigation and Peace), rises the extensive Manufacture des Tabacs, occupying the entire block between the Rue Nicot, the Rue de l'Universite', and the Boucherie des Invalides. It is accessible on Thursdays only, 10 — 12 and 2 — 4 o'clock; visitors ring at the principal entrance, where a Hag usually hangs. The arrangements of the establishment are interesting. About 1800 — 1900 hands are he reemployed, of whom 1400 are women ; the latter , when industrious , earn 2 l /«2 fr. per diem on an average. There 'are altogether 17 government manufactories of tobacco in France, all of which are dependent on that of Paris. They yield an annual revenue of 150 million fr. (6 millions sterling). 173 30. Blind, and Deaf and Dumb Institutions. The * Institution des jeunes Aveugles is situated at the S. extremity of the Boulevart des Invalides. This handsome edifice, erected in 1839 — 1845, with its two projecting pavilions, is separated from the boulevart by a railing. The bas-relief Which adorns the pediment above the entrance, by Jouffrcy, represents Valentin Haily (d. 1822), the founder of the institution, in- structing his pupils under the protection of Religion. In the court is placed a marble statue of the founder, with a blind girl at his feet. Admission by card obtained by applying to the director (comp. p. 162) on Wednesdays only, iy 4 — 5 o'clock. The chief object of the institution is the maintenance and in- struction of blind children of both sexes, of 9 — 13 years of age. Their residence may, if necessary, be prolonged to their 20th year. Most of the inmates are supported by government, or by the parishes to which they belong. Private pupils of any age are received for an annual sum of 1000 fr. The usual number of inmates is 200 — 300 , of whom three fourths are boys. The masters and female teachers are all them- selves blind, most of them having been educated at this estab- lishment. One of the attendants (fee 1 fr.) conducts visitors through the different portions of the institution, the dining-rooms, work-rooms, dormitories, printing-office, garden, gymnastic and play-ground. The Printing-office is one of the most remarkable departments. Books for the blind only are here printed in raised characters. The alphabet consists of six points, different positions and com- binations of which form the different letters. The same system is employed in writing, the pupil impressing the points on paper with a pointed instrument. The principal manual occupations of the inmates are carpen- tering, turning, brush-making, straw-plaiting, netting, and weaving. Specimens of their workmanship may be purchased in a room set apart for the purpose. The most important branch of instruction is music, for which the blind usually evince a remarkable aptitude, and which of all pursuits is the best calculated to enable them to gain their own livelihood. Several public concerts are given annually in the chapel, the directors of which are blind, as well as the orchestra. The frescoes in the chapel, by H. Lehmann , represent Christ speaking words of consolation to the blind. On the last Saturday of every month an examination of the pupils takes place. Visitors may obtain access by applying to the Director (comp. form given at p. 162). The Deaf and Dumb Institution (Institution des sourds-muets), Rue St. Jacques 224 , in the vicinity of the Jardin du* Luxem- 174 31. ST. SULPICE. bourg, is an establishment similar to the above-mentioned, but less extensive and far inferior in its internal arrangements. The Classe d' articulation, which usually begins at hall' past 4 o'clock, well merits a visit. Here different trades are likewise taught, such as turning, shoemaking, lithographing, etc. The number of pupils is about 200, 75 of whom are girls. The Salle des Exercic.es is adorned with busts of the Abbe de VEpee, the founder of the establishment (p. 118) , and his successor the Abbe Sicard. It also contains an interesting picture, representing the Abbe de TEpee embracing the young Comte de Toulouse, one of his deaf and dumb pupils, who had been abandoned by his relations. The altar-piece in the chapel , by Vernet , represents Christ healing a deaf man; to the i. is a painting of the death-bed of the Abbe de i'Epee, by Peyson, a deaf and dumb artist. Both of these establishments are closed during the vacation (August and September). 31. Churches on the Left Bank of the Seine. St. Sulpice. St. Etienne du Mont. St. Germain des Pr4s. Ste. Clotilde. Of the churches mentioned at p. 113 the four following are situated in the S. quarter of the city, on the 1. bank of the Seine. *St. Sulpice, a short distance to the N.W. of the Palais du Luxembourg , is the most important and the richest of these churches. Its proportions are strikingly grand. It was commenced in 1646, but not completed until a century later. The form of the church is a cross, 460 ft. in length, 185 ft. in breadth, 106 ft. in height; the interior consists of a nave and two aisles which surround the choir also. The facade is open to criticism, and the towers are not symmetrical. On the W. side the church is approached by a flight of steps, divided by the projecting bases of the Doric pillars of the portico. At the entrance are placed, as receptacles for holy water, two remarkably large shells (tridachna, gig as), which rest on rock- work of marble, designed by Pigalle. The principal objects of interest are the frescoes in the chapels. R. *lst Chapel on the S. side : 1. Jacob wrestling with the Angel ; 2. Balthazar ejected from the Temple ; on the cupola, St. Michael conquering Satan; all by Eng. Delacroix. *2nd Chapel: 1. Religion solacing a dying man; 2. Efficacy of prayer for the dead; by Heim. 3rd Chapel : 1 . St. Roch praying for the cessation of the plague ; 2. Death of the saint in the prison of Montpellier ; on the ceiling his Apotheosis; executed by Abel de Pujol in 1821. 4th Chapel : Scenes from the life of St. Maurice , painted by Vinchon in 1822. 31. ST. ETIENNE DU MONT. 175 5th Chapel : Marble monument of the pastor Lenylet (d. 1750), by Michael Sloodtz. 1st lateral Chapel on the N. side: 1. St. Francois Xavier resuscitating a corpse; 2. Miraculous cure of sick persons past whom the saint's remains are carried, by Lason. 2nd Chapel: 1. St. Francois de Sales preaching in Savoy; 2. Ste. Chantal receiving from the saint statutes of a new order of nuns ; painted by Hesse in 1860. 3rd Chapel: St. Paul's Conversion, and his announcement of the resurrection before the Areopagus at Athens , painted by Drolling in 1850. 4th Chapel : St. Vincent de Paul recommending foundlings to the care of sisters of charity ; the saint at the death-bed of Louis XIII., executed by Guillemot in 1825. 1st Chapel on the N. side of the choir: Triumph und Martyr- dom of St. John, two frescoes painted by Glaize in 1859. 1st Chapel on the S. side of the choir: St. Denis preaching to the heathen Romans, and his Condemnation to death, both by Jobbe-Duval in 1-859. # The pulpit, which is supported by the staircase alone, is ad- orned with figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity. The organ is richly carved, and is externally the finest in Paris. The Baptistery in the N. aisle contains a line stained glass window representing the Marriage of the Virgin. The statues of St. Paul and St. John by the sacristy are by Pradier , those of the twelve apostles on the piers of the choir transepts by Bouchardon. The handsome square in front of the church is adorned by the Fontaine St. Sulpice, designed by Visconti, and erected in 1847. It consists of three concentric basins, one above the other, over the highest of which are placed statues of the four most celebrated preachers in France in niches: Bossuet (d. 1704"), Fenelon (d. 1715), Massillon (d. 1742), and Flechier (d. 1710). The Place St. Sulpice is one of the most frequented omnibus stations. A flower-market is held here on Mondays and Thursdays. The long, edifice on the S. side of the Place is the Seminaire de St. Sulpice , for the education of priests. — In the vicinity is the Marche St. Germain, see p. 22. * St. Etienne du Mont, near the Pantheon , is internally an extremely interesting edifice, but externally presents a singular mixture of different architectural styles ; the W. facade is partly Gothic, partly Italian. The church is believed to have been founded about the beginning of the 12th cent. ; in the 13th cent, the square tower with the circular turret at the side was probably erected; in 1537 the greater portion of the edifice was rebuilt, and in 1610 the W. portal was erected by Margaret of Valois, first consort of Henry IV. 176 31. ST. GERMAIN DES PR&S. The interior consists of a nave and two aisles, the latter un- usually lofty ; the columns are connected half way up by arches which support a narrow gallery. The rich and elaborate deco- rations belong to the latest Gothic style, shortly before the transi- tion to the Renaissance. The lofty vaulting is supported by graceful round columns, from which spring the ribs terminating in key-stones on which the arches rest. The choir is separated from the nave by a *Lectorium (screen, French jube) of the most exquisite workmanship ; round the pillars wind two light and graceful spiral staircases, which ascend to the triforium. The S. aisle, contiguous to the choir , contains the Tomb of Ste. Genevieve (d. about 500), the patron saint of Paris. The sarcophagus is said to be the original depository of the remains of the saint , but is evidently a work of the 13th cent. The chapel containing it is gorgeously painted and gilded in the By- zantine style. A chapel on the same side, the 5th from the entrance, con- tains a life-size Entombment of Christ, in stone. T^e Pulpit, designed by Lahire, is borne by a Samson, and adorned with elegant statuettes. Most of the paintings are of the 18th cent. ; the S. chapels, however, contain some fine modern works by Grenier , Abel de Pujol, Aligny, and Caminade. The stained glass dates from 1568. The aisles contain two fine pictures presented by the city of Paris: S., the Genius of France with the Parliament interceding with Ste. Genevieve for the cessation of a famine: N., the Prevot des Marchands and civic dignitaries ; both executed at the end of the 17th cent, by Largilliere, the greatest French portrait-painter of his time. On marble tablets are inscribed the names of several illus- trious personages interred in this church , among others Pascal (d. 1662), and Racine (d. 1699). On January 3rd, 1857, Arch- bishop Sibour was assassinated here by an ex-priest. St. Germain des Pres , Rue Bonaparte , situated a short dis- tance to the S. of the Ecole des Beaux Arts, is probably the most ancient church in Paris. It was erected in 1001 — 1163, the lower part in the Romanesque , the upper in the Gothic style. The exterior is uninteresting. In 1789, on the outbreak of the revolution , the church was secularised, and converted into a saltpetre manufactory; in 1794 it was seriously damaged by an explosion ; under Charles X. it was once more used as a place of worship , and in 1836 the restoration was completed. The interior was gorgeously painted and gilded in 1852 — 56, in imitation of the ancient style in which the abbey-church was decorated. The large frescoes on a gold ground in the choir are by Flandrin, on the N. side Christ entering Jerusalem, on the S. side 31. STE. CLOTILDE. 177 Christ bearing the Cross 5 over the arches the twelve apostles and the emblems of the evangelists, the Angel, Lion, Ox, and Eagle. The windows of the choir are filled with modern stained glass, representing Christ, the Virgin and the apostles. The frieze of the nave above the arches is decorated with a series of frescoes by Flandrin, completed in 1861, representing biblical subjects, arranged in pairs, each containing a subject from the Old, and one. from the New Testament. The S. transept contains a handsome marble monument of the Castellan family , dating from the latter half of the 17th cent. The chapel in the choir, adjoining to the sacristy, is the burial- place of James, Duke of Douglas (d. 1645). The next chapel contains memorial tablets of black marble, which record the names of several illustrious men of letters interred here : Mabillon (d. 1707), Descartes (d. 1650), and Montfaucon (d. 1641). The Chapel of Our Lady behind the high altar is a modern structure, adorned with the Adoration of the Magi, and the Pre- sentation in the Temple, by Abel de Pujol* The Chapel of St. Paul contains a tablet in memory of the poet Boileau, whose heart was transferred hither from the Sainte Chapelle in 1819. The ad- joining chapel contains another monument of the Douglas family. The N. aisle contains the tomb of Casimir V. (d. 1672), king of Poland, who, after having been a Jesuit and cardinal, succeeded his brother in 1648 on the Polish throne. In 1668 he abdicated, and, resuming his ecclesiastical garb, became Abbot of St. Germain des Pres. On the wall, nearer the entrance , is a monument to the painter Hippolyte Flandrin (d. 1864). *Ste. Clotilde, Place Bellechasse, Faubourg St. Germain, near the Palais du Corps Legislatif, is one of the newest churches in Paris, having been commenced in 1846 under the auspices of Queen Amelie. It is a chapel of ease to the church of St. Thomas d'Aquin , the insignificant parish church of this wealthy and aristocratic quarter of the city , and was completed in 1857 at a cost of 8 million fr. Ste. Clotilde, the first new church (320 ft. long, 106 ft. broad, 85 ft. high) in Paris of the Gothic style, is well situated in an open space. Two towers rise above the N. portal , which contains three entrances. The interior is remarkable for its dig- nified simplicity , being decorated with marble reliefs only. The magnificent stained-glass windows , especially those of the choir, effectually soften and subdue the light. The frescoes of the five chapels of the choir are by Pivot , those of the two chapels in the transepts by Lehmann, those in the Baptistery and Burial Chapel by Delaborde. The sculptures are by Pradier , Duret, Guillaume, Triqueti, Paul Gayrand, Lequesne, etc., the stained glass by Marechal, Hesse, Lamotte, and Chancel. The stalls in the choir are masterpieces of carving. B^deker. Paris. 3rd Edition. 1 4 2 178 32. Cemetery of Montparnasse. This cemetery, the third of the great Parisian burial-grounds, is intended for all the interments which take place in the S. portion of the city, on the I: bank of the Seine. It was first laid out in 1824, when it consisted of a space of about 30 acres ; its present extent is nearly five times greater. Compared with the cemetery of Pere Lachaise , and even that of Montmartre , it presents few features of interest : the stranger may , however, conveniently visit it either before or after an excursion to Ver- sailles , the railway - station for which (rive gauche) is in the vicinity. Near the entrance , to the r. , is the burying-ground of the sisters of charity, where one of the most conspicuous crosses in- dicates the grave of Sceur Rosalie Rendu , who was presented with the cross of the Legion of Honour in recognition of her unwearied and disinterested labours in the Crimea. That her name is still regarded with reverence is indicated by the fresh flowers and wreaths placed on her grave at intervals by soldiers of the French army. A short distance farther, to the 1. as the principal avenue is entered, is the monument of a Mile. Leontine Spiegel, remarkable for the beauty of the statue in white marble which adorns it. A cross to the 1. in the principal walk, leading from N. to S., indicates the grave of Henri Gregoire (d. 1832) , 'ancien eveque de Blois\ one of the first of the clergy who swore fidelity to the new constitution in 1790, and in 1795 a member of the council of Five Hundred. In 1815 he was deprived of his bishopric by Louis XVIII., and excluded from the Institut, of which he was a member. On his death the Archbishop of Paris refused his remains Christian burial. In the preceding adjacent walk the visitor will perceive the names of several men of letters : Mongez, Thurot, Duval, etc. In the circular space, to the 1. : Mazois (d. 1826), an eminent architect; Orfila, the physician (d. 1833); Boyer, the celebrated surgeon (d. 1833), with a bust. — Farther on, to the 1. : Cham- pagny, due de Cadoe, minister of the exterior from 1807 to 1811. To the r. in the principal walk : Duval (d. 1842), the dramatist. In the W. avenue, to the r. when entered from the circular space: Admiral Count Dumont d'Urville, who, with his wife and only son, lost his life by a railway accident in 1842 (comp. p. 183), with gaudy representations of his principal voyages. In the E. avenue: General Henri de Mylius (d. 1866), who entered the army in 1800, and was thrice wounded in the cam- paigns of Napoleon , a large monument with a bust in bronze. Then: Boulay, de la Meurthe (d. 1840), member of the Five 33. THE CATACOMBS. 179 Hundred, and president of the legislative commission under Na- poleon I. In the vicinity (opposite) the singular monument of Aug. Domes, l representant du peuple, mort pour la Republique' . In the N.E. avenue: Jacques Lis franc (d. 1847), an eminent military surgeon and professor ; one of the reliefs on the sides represents a scene from the battle of Leipsic, the other a lecture attended by numerous pupils. 33. The Catacombs. The Catacombs were formerly quarries known, and employed as far back as the Roman period, yielding a soft kind of lime- stone which hardens on exposure to the air. Many of the streets in the S. part of Paris, being undermined by these quarries, be- gan to give indications of sinking, in consequence of which steps were taken by government in 1784 to avert the danger, by con- structing piers and buttresses where the upper surface was in- sufficiently supported. About the same time the Council of State issued a decree for the removal of the bodies from the Cemetery of the Innocents, and others, to these subterranean quar- ries. The catacombs were accordingly consecrated in 1786, and the work of conveying the bones to their new receptacle per- formed by night. During the revolution and the Reign of Terror, immense numbers of bodies were thrown into these cavities, and the bones brought from other quarters were heaped together in confused masses. In 1810, however, a regular system was com- menced, for the more seemly disposition of these remains, and the proper organisation of their final resting-place. New pillars have since then been erected to support the roof, excavations made to admit more air , and channels dug to carry off the water. The galleries and different compartments are completely lined with human bones, arranged with great care and intermingled with rows of skulls. Several chapels have also been constructed entirely of the same ghastly materials, and furnished with va- rious inscriptions. There are altogether upwards of sixty dif- erent entrances to the catacombs, the principal staircases being at the former Barriere de l'Enfer, in the Rue de la Tombe Issoire, and in the plain of Montsouris. These gloomy caverns once con- stituted one of the usual sights of Paris, but the public are now excluded, and it is a matter of great difficulty to obtain per- mission to visit them. The official to whom application must be made is the Inyenieur en Chef des mines et inspecteur general des carrieres de Paris, whose office is now at the Luxembourg. Another relic of the Gallo-Roman period at Paris, discovered in the spring of 1870 in the Rue Monge (PI., blue 8, 10, to the W. of the Jardin des Plantesj, at a depth of 35 ft. below the 12* 180 33. THE CATACOMBS. surface of the ground, is the ruin of an ancient Amphitheatre (Les Arenes), which, however, the ordinary traveller, especially if already familiar with similar structures, will find unattractive. The building was situated on the slope of the hill of Ste. Gene- vieve (p. 151), in which the stage was excavated. The greater diameter measures about 60, the shorter 50 yds., and there appears to have been space to accommodate 14,000 spectators. A temporary building on the spot (admission 1 fr., devoted to the prosecution of the excavations) contains the antiquities found here (buckles, skeletons, etc.). ENVIRONS OF PARIS. / / 34. Versailles. Routes. Three different routes lead from Paris to Versailles, which is situated about 10 M. to the S. W. of the city; viz. the two railways on the r. and 1. banks of the river, and the high road which lies between them. As the stranger will pro- bably desire to visit the extensive historical museum (closed on Mondays) more than once, he may on each occasion agreeably vary, his route. On each of these different routes the traveller will perceive innumerable traces of the disastrous events of 1870 — 71. A few only of these need be alluded to in the following description. Railway (Rive Droite) (Station Rue St. Lazare, 124; PL, red 6; see p. 27) on the right bank of the Seine; tirst class (diligence) 1 fr. 50 c. , second class (wagon) 1 fr. 25 c. ; trains from Paris every hour from 7. 30 a. m. till 8. 30 p. m., and from Versailles every hour from 7 a. m. till 10 p. m. ; duration of journey 50 min. (Return-tickets available for the rive gauche, see p. 181). Passing through two tunnels, the first under the Place de l'Europe, the second penetrating the ramparts, the train skirts the former Docks Napoleon, and quits the city. Between Clichy and Asnieres, w r here the 'Casino d'Asnieres' and a much fre- quented swimming-bath are situated, the Seine is crossed. The lines to Argenteuil, St. Germain, and Rouen here diverge to the The Versailles line describes a wide curve. The long edifice to the 1. of the station of Courbevoie is a barrack erected by Louis XV. for his Swiss Guard; under Napoleon I. it was oc- cupied by the Imperial Guards. The next station is Puteaux. The line traverses elevated ground, and affords an extensive pro- spect of Paris, the Bois de Boulogne, and the valley of the Seine. Mont Valerien, the base of which is skirted by the railway near the station of Suresnes, rises 600 ft. above the Seine, and commands a magnificent view. It cannot be visited without the permission of the commandant. The summit was formerly occupied by Le Calvuire, a monastery erected in the reign of r. (pp. 180, 234). 182 34. VERSAILLES. sLoui XIII., and a popular resort of the pious. Napoleon I. caused the building to be demolished , and an establishment for the education of daughters of members of the Legidn of Honou r to be erected on the site. Under the Restoration the hill again came into the possession of an ecclesiastical body, the Peres de la Foi, and was once more frequented by pilgrims. These ecclesiastics were dispersed by the revolution of July, and ten years later the fortifications were commenced. In 1870 — 71 the fort played a prominent part in both the sieges of Paris. On the final re-establishment of peace on May 28th, 1871, it was little more than a heap of rains, but will probably be restored. The train next stops at the station of St. Cloud (p. 199), then passes through a short tunnel, and skirts the deer-park of the chateau. Some distance farther, a second tunnel. To the r. of the line is situated Ville d'Avray, a pleasant and picturesque summer resort of the Parisians, which is also the station for Sevres (p. 201). Chaville is next passed, and the train reaches the viaduct which crosses the high road and unites the fines of the right and left banks. The station of this line (rive droite) at Versailles is nearly 1 M. distant from the palace (omnibus 30 c). On the way thither the traveller passes an open space in which, to the r., is situated Lemaire's Statue of General Roche, l ne a Versailles le 24 Juin 1768, soldat a 16 ans, general en chef a 25, mort a 29, pacifieatew de la Vendee'. Another monument to the memory of this illustrious soldier has been erected near Neuwied on the Rhine, where, shortly before his sudden death at Wetzlar, he had crossed the river and repulsed the Austrian forces. Railway (Rive Gauche) (Station Boulevart Mont Parnasse 44, 35 min. drive from the Bourse, PL, blue 6) on the left bank of the Seine ; fares the same as by the rive droite ; the journey occupies 40 min. Trains from Paris every hour from 7 a. m. till 11 p. m., from Versailles every hour from 6. 30 a. m. till 10. 30 p. m. Return-tickets available for the rive droite, see above. The finest views are to the right. On the way to the station, in the Rue de Sevres, adjoining the Hopital des Incurables (Femmes), the traveller will observe a fountain ornamented with a fine figure of an Egyptian woman pouring water out of two vessels. The Cemetery of Montparnasse (p. 178) is also near this station. The line skirts the village of Jssy, where on July 3rd, 1815, the last struggle for the possession of Paris took place between Blucher and Davoust. On the same day the capitulation of Paris was signed. On the field of battle subsequently rose the Fort d'Issy, forming part of the fortifications of Paris, but entirely destroyed during the sieges of 1870 — 71. Clamart is the station for Vanves, Issy, and Chdtillpn. All these villages suffered severely 34. VERSAILLES. 183 during the Prussian bombardment. The railway-station was com- pletely swept away, and many of the houses of Clamart destroyed. The scene of desolation was greatly aggravated by the events of the second siege, when the forts of Issy and Vanves were occupied by the insurgents, and finally entirely destroyed by the Versailles troops. Near the station is a hydropathic establishment. The line skirts the slopes of the hills, affording a fine view of Paris and the valley of the Seine. At Meudon are the ruins of an imperial chateau, where the Empress Marie Louise resided with the king of Rome during the Russian campaign in 1812. It was afterwards a summer residence of Prince Napoleon, but was set on fire by a shell and reduced to a heap of ruins during the Prussian bombardment of Paris in 1871. The terrace below it was employed by the Prussians for the construction of extensive and formidable earthworks, from which the most persistent cannonade from Issy and the other forts was unable to dislodge them. A powerful battery of 20 guns planted here completely commanded Boulogne, Billancourt, Le Point-du-Jour, Auteuil, Grenelle, Yaugirard, and Issy. At a later period (April 3rd) the insurgents, aware of the importance of the position, endeavoured to capture it, but were driven back by the troops of the government. The walls of the terrace, as well as many neighbouring houses, bear numerous marks of balls and shells. Bellevue is the station for the palace of St. Cloud (p. 199), about IY2 M. distant. Near the station is situated a small Gothic- chapel, dedicated to Notre Dame des Flammes. It commemorates a frightful railway catastrophe, May 8th, 1842. The train caught fire, and upwards of 200 persons perished, amongst them Admiral d'Urville (p. 179). The next stations are Sevres (p. 201), Chaville, Viroflay, and then Versailles. The station of this line (rive gauche) is about Y2 M. distant from the palace. Horse Railway (Chemin de Fer Americain), Rue du Louvre 2, opposite the great colonnade, from Paris to Versailles by Sevres every hour from 8 a. m. till dusk; fares 1 fr. or (Impe'riale) 80 c. ; on Sundays and festivals 1 fr. 10 c. or 90 c. ; to Sevres in 80 min., to Versailles in 2 hrs. The route by Sevres (high-road) is extremely animated. For a long distance it skirts the Seine, passing the bridges at the W. extre- mity of the city, the Barrier x de Passy, and almost unbroken rows of houses, and traverses the suburbs of Passy and Auteuil, much frequented by the Parisians in summer, and once favourite resorts of Boileau, Lafontaine, Racine, Moliere, etc. Here the external fortifications of Paris are intersected (the road to St. Cloud di- verges to the r.), the Seine crossed, and Sevres reached. The drive from Sevres to Versailles occupies 40 min. more; the road 184 34. VERSAILLES. passes under the railway viaduct, and soon reaches the Avenue de Paris. Versailles (* Hotel des Reservoirs, Rue des Reservoirs } *Hd tel de France, Place (TArmes 5; Hdtel du Sabot d^Or; Restaurant Gelin, near the station of the Rive Droite; Restaurant du Coing , at the station of the Rive Gauche } Cafe de la Gome" die, in the park, near the Bassin du Dragon) is indebted to Louis XIV. for its its foundation. That monarch, like his predecessors, had during the first years of his reign made St. Germain his summer resi- dence, but, it is said, conceived a dislike to it from the fact of the tower of St. Denis, the royal burying-place, being visible from the palace. The palace and park of Versailles, termed by Voltaire l l J abime des depenses\ are said to have cost the enormous sum of 400 mil- lion francs (16 millions sterling); vast sums were also expended on it by subsequent monarchs. Near the statue of Hoche (p. 182) is the Church of Notre Dame, erected in 1684; the second chapel to the 1. contains the remains of M. de Vergennes (d. 1787), minister of Louis XVI. In the Quartier St. Louis, the S. portion of the town, at no great distance from the palace, is situated the Jeu de Paume or tennis-court, memorable in history as the spot where the National Assembly held the decisive session of June 23rd 1789, in which the Marquis de Dreux-Bre'ze appeared as the kings's deputy and pronounced the assembly dissolved, but received the audacious reply from Mirabeau : 'Allez dire a votre maUre que nous sommes ici par la volonte du peuple, et que nous nen sortirons que par la force des bayonnettes\ The tennis-court is now disused. Notwithstanding its population of 30,000 inhabitants, its exten- sive Palace, erected in 1660 — 1710 by Mansard, its gardens, villas, etc., Versailles has little to attract the stranger beyond the incomparable **Musee Historique, founded by Louis Philippe, and occupying an almost interminable suite of apartments in the palace. In 1832 these rooms were entirely refitted, and adorned with historical pictures brought from the Louvre and other palaces, the deficien- cies being supplied by works of the most eminent living artists. The first establishment of the museum is said to have cost upwards of 15 million fr., the funds being derived from the civil list. Subsequent regimes have left undisturbed the original arrange- ments of the museum, and have greatly enriched and extended it. The gallery of Versailles may be regarded as a collection of modern pictures and sculptures. The historical object, however, was always predominant , to serve which , numerous works were received often without regard to their merits as works of art. The critical eye , therefore , will not fail to detect very inferior productions intermingled with the efforts of transcendant genius. The mass of pictures and sculptures is so overwhelming, that the i 2 3 A j 6 7 goo Metres 34. VERSAILLES. 185 stranger will find one visit totally inadequate for the examination even of the most celebrated works. A walk through the entire suite of apartments without a single halt alone occupies l 1 /^ hr. Strangers are particularly cautioned against purchasing cata- logues from persons who hawk spurious and unauthorised editions in the vicinity of the chateau. The best selection of works of this description is to be found in the entrance-hall of the palace itself, where the purchaser should be careful to make choice of one which embraces the entire collection. As, however, the pic- tures are all furnished with the name of the artist and of the subject , a catalogue may be dispensed with in a cursory visit. These remarks , as well as the following enumeration of the principal pictures , applied to the palace and its collections prior to the momentous events of 1870 — 71 , but they will probably prove serviceable to the traveller, as it is expected that the gal- leries will be reopened to the public at no very distant period. The garden and the Trianons (p. 198) alone are at present accessible. From Sept. 19th 1870 to March 6th 1871 the palace was the head-quarters of the King of Prussia, and a great part of the edifice was employed as a military hospital , the pictures being carefully covered to protect them from injury. Here , too , on Jan. 18th 1871, one of the impressive scenes recorded on the page of history was enacted , when the Prussian monarch, by the unanimous consent of the German states, was saluted as Emperor of Germany. To describe minutely all the events which occurred at Versailles during the above period would be to write an entire history of the Franco-Prussian war, a task far beyond the scope of the Handbook. Suffice it to say that this town, usually so dull and peaceful, then formed the great centre of operation of .the most re- markable war ever witnessed in the world's history , whilst a little later it became the seat of the new French Republican government, whose political efforts have been attended with such numerous and overwhelming difficulties. The palace is still occupied by the various offices of the French government, but it is expected that they will ere long be re-transferred to the capital. The Palace Court is entered by a gateway , with pillars adorned by groups emblematical of the victories of Louis XIV., over Austria to the r. (eagle), and Spain to the 1. (lion). In the court are placed two rows of colossal Statues, some of which stood on the Pont de la Concorde in Paris until the year 1837. To the right: Bayard (d. 1524); Colbert (d. 1683), the able minister of Louis XIV.; Cardinal Richelieu (d. 1642), regent of France under Louis XIII.; Marshal Jourdan (d. 1833); Marshal Massena (d. 1817); Admiral Tourville (d. 1701); Admiral Dugay- Trouin (d. 1736); Marshal Turenne (d. 1675). To the left: Bertrand Duguesclin (d. 1380), Connetable of France (p. 206); Sully (d. 1641), the celebrated minister of Henri IV.; Suger 186 34. VERSAILLES. (d. 1152), Abbot of St. Denis and regent under Louis VII.; Marshal Lannes (d. 1809); Marshal Mortier (d. 1835); Admiral Suffren (d. 1789); Admiral Duquesne (d. 1687); the Great Conde' (d. 1686), general of Louis XIV. The friezes of the pediments of the two projecting lateral pavilions bear the inscription : "A toutes les gloires de la France." In the centre stands a colossal Equestrian Statue of Louis XIV. in bronze, the horse by Cartellier , the figure by Petitot. The palace is usually entered from the Cour de la Chapelle, to the right. Sticks and umbrellas must be given into the custody of an attendant at a charge of 10 c. each ; overcoat 20 c. The following description is in accordance with the prescribed order in which the various apartments are visited. To facilitate the progress of visitors through the apartments , attendants are posted at intervals to indicate the route. The objects of the greatest interest, whether historical or artistic, are enumerated in the following pages. Those who are unable to pay more than one visit to Versailles are recommended to direct their attention almost exclusively to those works denoted in the Handbook by asterisks. Those whose time is less limited should devote their first visit to a walk through all the apartments , in order to gain a general idea of the whole , and subsequent visits to the examination of the objects in which they are specially interested. From the Vestibule de la Chapelle the visitor first enters a series of eleven saloons containing pictures of historical interest from Charlemagne down to Louis XIV. inclusive. I. Saloon. Ary Scheffer (painted in 1827) , Charlemagne laying his capitularies , his laws, and decrees, before the Frankish diet in 779. — Rouget, St. Louis (d. 1270) mediating between the King of England and his barons. II. Saloon. Brenet, Taking of Chateau Neuf, and Death of Du Guesclin. — Vinchon, Charles VII. anointed at Rheims , 1429. ■ — Barthelemy , Entry of the French army into Paris, 1436. III. Saloon. Jollivet, Battle of Agnadello, 1509. — Lariviere, Taking of Brescia, 1512. IV. Saloon. Ary Scheffer (painted in 1824), Gaston de Foix's death at the Battle of Ravenna, 1512. — Schnetz, Battle of Ce'risolles, 1544. V. Saloon. Large pictures of little artistic value. VI. Saloon. Small battle-pictures from Turenne's campaign on the Rhine in 1644 (Lichtenau, Baden, Freiburg, fete.) VII. Saloon. The Crossing of the Rhine at Emmerich (see p. 43), 1672. — Other scenes from the campaigns of 1644 — 45 ( Worms, Spires, Mayence, etc.) VIII. Saloon. Similar pictures from the campaigns of 1672 — 77. I. Marengd. 2. 1830. CO to N»> O p P to CO cc p p erie trait; o cd cd g g de 1 Bat; Res 1 S El" CO aT o Ct> ~ 05 3 CD c * P- CD Li • s © 5 CD 2. Gouacli. coco, 0 II w g. § 3 a 2 g"2 1. Marechaux. 2. Tableaux de Louis XIV 1. Residences. | ^ ^ h-J 2. Pet. ap. de td ' w Marie Ant. 9 Co Q 2 (-DP. 3 4? *TAX s I n 0T;9p smgiua'jjijddy -g I - AIX sino'i 9p xn^aiqTSj, -g •ximpfUKnT •] tr ct> o" p ^ p p ^ 99.I^UJ[ cT & p 1 g: t-3 CD p P Co to h» CD •"d _ JB- p- COCD 2 CD O 188 34. VERSAILLES. — *Gallait (painted in 1837), Battle of Cassel in Flanders. — Mannheim. Wesel, Emmerich, Sinzheim. IX. Saloon. Similar pictures : Freiburg, Philippsburg. X. and XI. Saloons. Large pictures from the campaign in the Netherlands, of no great artistic merit. In the XI. Room: 225. Hersent (painted in 1817), Louis XVI. and his family distrib- uting donations (1788). Beyond these rooms is a gallery , containing busts and statues, with the entrance to the Theatre, where the ill judged fete to the Garde du Corps was. given by the court in Oct. 1789. Beyond the historical interest it presents no attraction. The live **Salles des Cro is a des which are next entered are remarkable for their sumptuous decoration, and the magnificent modern pictures they contain : *lst Room. Gallait, Coronation of Count Baldwin of Flanders as Greek Emperor (1204). — * Hesse, Taking of Beyrout (1197). — Lariviere , Battle of Ascalon (1099). *2nd Room. Lepoittevin, Naval Battle of Embro (1346). — Jacquand, Taking of Jerusalem by Jacques de Molay , Grand Master of the Templars (1299). — Rouget, Louis IX. receiving the emissaries of the 'Old Man of the Mountain' (1251). **3rd Room. Among the armorial bearings on the central pillars are those of Frederick Barbarossa, Emp. Conrad III., and Richard Cceur de Lion ; near them a mortar from the island of Rhodes; opposite are the gates of the hospital of the knights of St. John , from Rhodes , presented by Sultan Mahmoud to Prince Joinville in 1836. — Casts of the monuments of three grand masters of the Maltese order. Schnetz , Procession of Crusaders round Jerusalem. — Horace Vernet , Battle of Toulouse (1212). — Lariviere, Raising of the siege of Malta (1565). — Lariviere, Raising of the siege of Rhodes (1480). — *Blondel , Surrender of Ptolemais to Philip Augustus and Richard Cceur de Lion. — *Eug. Delacroix, Taking of Constantinople (1204). 4th Room. Signol (painted in 1840) , St. Bernhard preaching the Second Crusade at Vezelay in Burgundy (1146). — *Schnetz, Battle of Ascalon (1099). 5th Room. *Gallait, Taking of Antioch (1098). — Hesse, Adoption of Godfrey de Bouillon by the Greek Emp. Alexander Comnenus (1097). — R. Fteury , Baldwin enters FMessa. — Signol, Taking of Jerusalem (1099), the Christians returning thanks for the victory. — Opposite, Signol, Christians crossing the Bosphorus under Godfrey de Bouillon in 1097. Quitting the 5th Room, the visitor re-enters the gallery above mentioned and returns by it to the entrance-vestibule (p. 186). A spiral staircase is now ascended; at the entrance of the next saloon into which visitors are shown, are placed statues by Pradier of General Damre'mont, who feli in 1837 at the siege of 34. VERSAILLES. 189 Constantine, and the Due de Montpensier (d. 18071, brother of Louis Philippe. The suite of apartments which is now entered contains some of the finest pictures in the collection, among which is the Alg erian series by Horace Vernet. 1 st Room. Occupying the principal wall; Chr. Midler, Opening of the Chambers on March 20th 1852. — Vernet, Marshal Bosquet. Portraits of Marshals Regnauld de St. Jean d'Angely, Niel, Forey,' Macmahon , and of Admiral Breat. — Rivoulon , Battle of the Alma. — Several pictures (Balaclava, Magenta, Solferino) by Jumel , a French staff-officer , are interesting on account of the accurate delineation of the ground and the positions of the troops. — Dubuffe , Congress of Paris (1856). 2nd Room : Yvon , Retreat from Russia (1812) ; Vernet , Storming of the 'Mamelon Vert' at Sebastopol. **3rd Room : Horace Vernet, Taking of the Smalah of Abdel- Kader (May 16th, 1843), a magnificent picture 40 ft. in length and 16 ft. in height, containing numerous portraits, as will be seen by the sketch beneath it. The 'Smalah' of Abdel-Kader, consisting of his camp, his itinerant residence, his court, harem, and treasury, and upwards of 20,000 persons, including the chief- tains of the principal tribes with their families , was taken by surprise on this occasion by the Due d'Aumale at the head of two cavalry regiments. Booty of enormous value, and 5000 pris- oners were the prize acquired with so little difficulty. Abdel- Kader himself was absent at the time. — Vernet, Battle of the Isly (August 14th, 1844), won by Marshal Bugeaud; among the figures are portraits of Cavaignac and Lamoriciere. — Beauce, Taking of Fort St. Xavier, near Puebla, 1863. — Horace Vernet, Storming of one of the bastions at the siege of Rome (June 30th, 1849) , in consequence of which the city was compelled to capi- tulate. — Beauce, Entry into Mexico, 1864. — On the right: Storming and capture of Laghouat (Dec. 4th, 1852), by Beauce, — Tissier , Napoleon III. setting Abdel-Kader at liberty. — Vernet, Marshal Pelissier. — Tissier, portrait of Abdel-Kader. **4th Room : Seven large (and seven small) pictures by Horace Vernet: Battle of the Habrah (Dec. 3rd, 1835). — Siege of Constantine (Oct. 10th, 1837) : in the foreground a churchyard, the tombstones of which are employed in contructing intrench- ments; to the 1. Constantine, a battalion of the Foreign Legion and another of the 26th light infantry engaged in action ; near two cypresses the Due de Nemours with his staff ; General Dam- remont reconnoitring , beside him General Rulliere. — Advance of the troops to the storming (Oct. 13th, 1837): in the foreground the breaching battery, near one of the guns General Vallee, com- mander of the besiegers under the Due de Nemours; to the 1. General Caraman , commander of the artillery, to the r. General 190 34. VERSAILLES. Fleury of the engineers, in front the Duo de Nemours, Colonel Lamoriciere at the head of the Zouaves, in the central group the English Lieutenant Temple. — Taking of Constantine (Oct. 13th, 1837): in the centre Colonel Combes turning to those following him , above him to the r. Lamoriciere at the head of the Zouaves : the drum-major with conscious dignity at the head of his drummers and trumpeters. — Attack on the Mexican fort St. Jean d'Ulloa by Admiral Baudin ; the vessel was commanded by the Prince de Joinville. — Storming of the pass of Tenia de Mouzajah (May 12th, 1840). — Siege of the citadel of Antwerp (1840). *5thRoom: Yvon, Entrance of the tower of Malakoff. — Yvon , Storming of the Malakoff. — Yvon , Curtain of the Malakoff. — Yvon , Battle of the Alma. — Yvon , Battle of Solferino. — Barrias , Disembarkation of the army on the coast of the Crimea. *6th Room : *Bouchot , Bonaparte dissolving the Council of Five Hundred (Nov. 9th, 1799). — Vinchon , Louis XVIII. tendering the 'Charte' of the constitution, and opening the Cham- bers. — Couder , Union of the National Guard with the army in the Champ de Mars (July 14th, 1790). — *Couder, Oath taken (June 20th, 1789) by the National Assembly in the Jen de Paume (p. 184) , L de ne jamais se separer , de se rassembler partout ou les circonstances Vexigeront , jusqua ce que la Constitution du royaume soit etablie et affermie sur des fondements solides\ 7th Room: *Steuben, Battle of Ivry (1590); Henry IV. rallying his followers with the words : '#i les cornettes (standards) vous manquent , ralliez-vous a mon panache (plume) blanc , il vous menera toujours dans le chemin de Vhonneur . The long gallery of Stqtues is now entered. *Pradiers monument of the Duke of Orleans (p. 94), the figure in a sitting- posture, with reliefs relating to the siege of Antwerp, and of Con- stantine. As counterpart to those mentioned at p. 188: Marshal Bugeaud, by Dumont; Count Beaujolais (d. 1808), brother of Louis Philippe, by Pradier. — At the extremity of the gallery an admirable statue of **Joan of Arc by the Princess Marie of Orleans (d. 1839) , daughter of Louis Philippe, and wife of the Duke Alexander of Wurtemberg. Ascending to the second story and entering the Salle des Academiciens to the right, the visitor will find a series of Por- traits of eminent French civilians, from the commencement of the 16th cent, to the present day. The following eight Salles des portraits historiques anterieurs a 1790, and a long gallery contain portraits of historical value only; also a collection of coins. Descending .to the first floor: ten rooms with Pictures re- presenting events between the years 1800 and 1835. 1st Room (1830—1835): Court, Louis Philippe signing the 34. VERSAILLES. I9J well known proclamation terminating - with the words: Ha Charte sera desormais une veriW ; the portraits deserve inspection. 2nd Room (1825 — 1830): Gerard, Coronation of Charles X. at Rheims. Horace Vernet, Review of the National Guard in the Champ de Mars in presence of Charles X. 3rd Room (1814—1823): Paul Delaroche , Storming of the Trocadero near Cadiz, under the Duke of Angouleme. — Gros, Louis XVIII. quitting the Tuileries on being apprised of Na- poleon's approach. 4th Room (1813. 1814): Copy from Horace Vernet by Henri Scheffer , Battle of Montmirail ; Napoleon against the Russians : in the foreground chasseurs of the old guard charging. — Copy from Horace Vernet by Feron, Battle of Hanau, Napoleon against the Bavarians: in the foreground General Drouot attacked by Bavarian light cavalry. — Beaume , Battle of Liitzen , Napoleon against the Prussians and Russians under Blucher, York, and Wittgenstein: in the foreground Prussian and Russian prisoners. 5th Room (1810—1812): Langlois , Battle of Borodino , on the Moskowa. 6th Room (1809): Meynier , Napoleon retiring to the Lobau after the battle of Essling. — Bellange , Battle of Wagram. — Gautherot , Napoleon wounded on the battle-field of Ratisbon (engravings from this picture are common). 7th Room (1807—1809): Hersent, Taking of Landshut. — Thevenin, Taking of Ratisbon. 8th Room (1806, 1807): Camus, Napoleon at the tomb of Frederick the Great at Potsdam. — Vafflard, Monument on the battle-field of Rossbach demolished by the French. — (Over the door) Rohn , Military hospital in the chateau of Marienburg, occupied by Russians and French after the battle of Friedland. 9th Room (1800 — 1805) : Taunay , The French entering Munich. 10th Room (1800): Campaigns in Egypt and Italy. — Langlois, Battle of Benouth. As these rooms are quitted, a glimpse of the Chapel is ob- tained from above. The following Salon d'Hercule contains a portrait of Louis XIV., and a picture representing the Passage of the Rhine (p. 186). In the small room next entered: Siege of Freiburg in 1677, painted at that date by Van der Meulen. The next two rooms contain several drawings in crayon, principally from the campaigns in the Netherlands of 1745 and 1746. In the adjoining * Corner-apartment , with the inscription: 'Etats generaux, Parlements, hits de justice', a number of large pictures: Couder , Opening of the Chambers, May 5th, 1789. Above , continued round the entire room. Procession of the 192 34. VERSAILLES. Assembly to the Church of Notre Dame at Versailles , by Bel- lange. The following Salons de Venus, de Diane, de Mars, de Mer- cure, d'Apollon, de La Guerre, contain a number of large pictures by Van der Meulen, of scenes from the Netherlands campaigns of Louis XIV. The long Galerie de Louis XIV. possesses nothing of interest beyond its magnificent fittings and its delightful situation facing the garden. To the left, adjoining this gallery are the three following apartments : the Salle des Pendules , so called from the intricate piece of mechanism it contains, by which the days of the month , the revolution of the earth , the phases of the moon etc. are recorded; the second is the sleeping apart- ment of Louis XIV., preserved nearly in its original condition, from the balcony of which (Sept. 1st, 1715) the king's chamber- lain announced to the people: 'Le roi est mort!\ at the same time breaking his wand of office; then taking another, he ex- claimed: k Vive le Roif The third room is the (Eil de Batuf, so called from the oval form of a window at the extremity. It was formerly the apart- ment where the courtiers awaited the 'levei of the monarch, and was celebrated as the scene of numerous intrigues. To the left are the Petits Appartements of Marie Antoinette, whence the at- tempt at escape was made on the night of Oct. 5th., 1789. The rooms of Louis XVI. in the opposite wing are also deserving of a visit ; a quadrant employed by that monarch himself is still in the position in which he placed it. . Quitting the (Eil de Boeuf and re-traversing the long gallery, the visitor enters a series of rooms containing large pictures, principally by Van der Meulen, a contemporary of Louis XIV. In the 3rd Room: *Gerard, The Duke of Anjou proclaimed king of Spain as Philip V. (Nov. 16th, 1700). 5th Room (Salle du Sacre de Napoleon): *David , Coronation of Napoleon and Josephine in the Cathedral of Notre Dame (Dec. 2nd, 1804). — David, Napoleon distributing the Eagles to the army. — Gros, Battle of Aboukir (1799). 6th Room (campaign of 1792 — 1793): Lami, Battle of Hondschoten. Small room to the left (campaign of 1793 — 1794): *Bellange, Battle of Fleurus between the Austrians under Prince Coburg and the French under Marshal Jourdan. *8th Room (1792) : Portraits of celebrated soldiers, who after- wards became emperors, kings, marshals, etc., represented accord- ing to the rank they held in 1792. — ■ Cannonade of Valmy, and Battle of Jemappes, in both of which Louis Philippe distinguished himself (copies from Horace Vernet) , reminiscences of his youth which that monarch appears to have specially valued. His portrait is also here (to the 1.), as 'Louis Philippe d'Orle*ans, 34. VERSAILLES. 193 due de Chartres , lieutenant -general'. — Cogniet , Departure of the National Guard to join the army. An ascent of a few steps to the left leads to the Salle des gouaches et aquarelles des campagnes de 1796 a 1814. In the first room pictures of French Uniforms, and sketches in Water- colours by French staff-officers, interesting on account of the subjects alone. Returning to the Room of 1792 : in the passage a statue of Louis Philippe by Dumont. The ** Galerie des B at a 1 11 es , a magnificent hall in two compartments, is now entered. It contains 33 modern chefs d'eeuvre, and is adorned with the busts af 80 celebrated generals who have fallen in battle. Their names are inscribed on large tablets ; those in the window-recesses record the names of the slain in the Crimean and Italian campaigns. To the left: *Ary Scheffer, Battle of Tolbiac (496). 1. * Steuben, Battle of Tours (732). To the right : **Horace Vernet , Second day of the battle of Wagram (1809). 1. Ary Scheffer, Submission of the Saxon Duke Wittekind to Charlemagne (785). r. Hor. Vernet, Battle of Friedland (1807). 1. *Schnetz, Eudes, Count of Paris, delivers the city from the Normans (888). r. Hor. Vernet, Napoleon addressing the Guards before the battle of Jena (1806). 1. **Hor. Vernet, Philip Augustus defeats the Barons at the battle of Bouvines (1214). r. Gerard, Battle of Austerlitz (1805). 1. Eug. Delacroix, Battle of Taillebourg (1242). 1. Henri Scheffer, Battle of Cassel in Flanders (1328). r. Philippoteaux, Battle of Rivoli (1797). 1. H. Scheffer, Joan of Arc raising the siege of Orleans. r. Couder, Siege of Yorktown in America, under General Rochambeau and Washington (1781). r. Couder, Battle of Lseffelt (or Lawfeld) near Maestricht (1747). 1. Gerard, Henry IV. entering Paris (1594). r. **Horace Vernet, Battle of Fontenoy, Marshal Saxe against the English (1745). 1. Heim, Battle of Rocroy, Conde* against the Spaniards (1643 ). r. Alaux, Battle of Denain , Marshal Villars against Prince Eugene (1712). The *Salle de 1830, which is next entered, contains five large pictures referring to the 'July Kingdom': Lariviere, Arrival of the Duke of Orleans at the Place de THotel de Ville ; to the 1. by the door of the edifice Lafayette in the uniform of the National Guard, his hat in his hand. Bjedeker. Paris. 3rd Edition. 13 34. VERSAILLES. Gerard , Reading of the declaration of the deputies , and proclamation of the Duke of Orleans as ' lieutenant - general du royaume\ Ary Scheffer , Louis Philippe as 'lieutenant-general', ac- companied by the Duke of Nemours , receiving his eldest son the Duke of Chartres (afterwards Duke of Orleans) at the head of his regiment of hussars. Eugene Deveria, Louis Philippe, in presence of the Chambers and his whole family, swears fidelity to the charter. Court , The King distributes flags to the National Guard in the Champ de Mars. All these pictures deserve careful exami- nation on account of the portraits of the promoters of the July revolution which they contain. Passing through a small door to the right, the visitor again ascends to the second story (on the staircase : Vernet, Pope Gre- gory XII. ; Decaisne, Death of Louis XIII.), and enters the Galerie des portraits de personnages celebres, a series of apartments con- taining an immense number of Portraits. Among others, in the 4th Room : Washington, and other American celebrities; Ma- dame Roland, beheaded in 1793 , wife of the minister, who was banished after the fall of the Gironde ; Charlotte Corday , by whose dagger Marat fell, also beheaded in 1793. In the passage- room portraits of English celebrities , amongst them *Queen Victoria and *Prince Albert, painted by Winterhalter in 1842. The two Salles des residences royales contain portraits of the Napoleon family ; among them, to the r. , a well-known ^picture by David, Napoleon, as First Consul, on the St. Bernard, painted in 1805 ; in the two Galeries des portraits de VEmpire et de la Restaur ation are portraits of the period of the empire, among them the 'Birth of the king of Rome', by Rouget, and portraits of the Turkish emperor Selim III. (d. 1808), and of Feth-Ali- Schah (d. 1834), king of Persia. In the last room: Madame Campan (d. 1822); *Pope Gre- gory XVI. (d. 1846), by Paul Delaroche; the Duchess of Berry with her two children, the Duke of Bordeaux, and the last Duchess of Parma; the Duke of Angouleme (d. 1844) on the battle-field, a large painting by Paul Delaroche; Pope Pius IX. with several cardinals, by Horace Vernet (d. 1863). The last small room contains a picture representing a lecture delivered by Professor Andrieux, containing 46 portraits of emi- nent men of letters, actors, and actresses, painted by Heim. The visitor now retraces his steps , descends to the hall of 1830, and finally regains the staircase at the entrance to the Galerie des Batailles, where the statues of Louis Philippe, Napo- leon I., and Louis XIV. are placed. Descending the stair to the ground - floor , he then enters the Salles des campagnes de 1796 a 1810. 34. VERSAILLES. 195 1st Room (1796). In the centre a small statue by Matthieu Meusnier, representing the youthful Jos. Agricola Viola, wounded, and with an axe in his hand. When a number of Royalists were about to march from Avignon against Lyons in 1793, this youth severed with an axe the rope of the ferry-boat on the Durance, thus retarding their progress. His heroic deed was scarcely ac- complished when he was killed by a bullet. The Convention directed his remains to be interred in the Pantheon. 2nd Room (1797). The Battle of Rivoli , a copy from C. Vernet. — Lethiere, Conclusion of peace at Leoben, between Bonaparte, the Marquis de Gallo, and General Merveldt. 3rd Room (1798). *Gros, Battle of the Pyramids; l Soldats, du haut de ces pyramides quarante siecles vous contemplent' was Bonaparte's address to his troops. — In the centre: Kleber's Death, a group in marble by Bougron. 4th Room (1802, 1803). Van Bree , Bonaparte entering Antwerp. 5th Room (1804). Serangeli, Napoleon after his coronation, receiving the deputies of the army in the Louvre. 6th Room (1805). * Victor Adam, Capitulation of an Austrian t cavalry brigade at Noerdlingen. The suite is here broken by the *Hall of busts and statues of the Imperial Family; in the centre Napoleon I., a copy of the statue on the Vendome column. 7th Room (1805). *Debret, 'Napoleon rend honneur au courage malheureux', the words reported to have been uttered by the emperor as he raised his hat in passing a waggon con- taining wounded Austrians. 8th Room (1805). Gros , Interview of Napoleon with the Emperor Francis during the bivouac on the day after the battle of Austerlitz , Dec. 3rd, 1805. L Je vous recois dans le seul palais que fliabite depuis deux mois\ were the words with which Napoleon addressed Francis. l Vous tirez si bon parti de cette habitation, quelle doit vous plaire', was the reply. 9th Room (1806, 1807 ). Meynier , The French army enter- ing Berlin, Oct. 27th, 1806. — Berthon, Napoleon receiving the deputies of the senate in the palace at Berlin. 10th Room (1807). Gosse, Napoleon, and the King and Queen of Prussia, at Tilsit. 11th Room (1808). Eeynault, Nuptials of Prince Jerome with the Princess of Wurtemberg. 12th Room (1809, 1810). Debret, Napoleon addressing his German troops before the battle of Abensberg, the Crown-prince Louis of Bavaria on horseback beside the Emperor. — Rouget, Nuptials of Napoleon with the Arch - duchess Marie Louise of Austria. *Salle de Marengo (1800). *David, Bonaparte ascending the 4 3* 196 34. VERSAILLES. St. Bernard. — The'venin, The French crossing the St. Bernard. — C. Vernet, Battle of Marengo. A staircase to the right , by the statue of Hoche at the entrance to the hall of sculptures , now descends to four small rooms containing *Sea - pieces , the finest of which are by Qudin. The long Hall of sculptures contains Statues and Busts oi celebrities of the republic and empire , generals who fell in battle, etc. The statue of Hoche (d. 1797) at the entrance, by Milhomme, represents the general in a sitting posture; the reliefs portray his passage of the Rhine, and the engagement at Neu- wied. To the left, farther on, the naturalist Cuvier (d. 1832); to the right Champollion (d. 1831), the eminent archaeologist and decipherer of hieroglyphics ; in the centre of the hall two reliefs, representing the delivery of the keys of Vienna, and the Peace of Pressburg. At the extremity of this hall is the issue from the S. wing of the palace into the Cour des Princes. The visitor should, however, first inspect the Basement- story of the principal part of the edifice, where a long series of apart- ments, extending as far as the outlet into the Cour de la Cha- pelle, contains numerous Portraits ; the first two, Admirals and Constables; the following, MarsJials of France. Memorial tablets record the names of the marshals whose portraits could not be procured. 6th Room. * Count de Rantzau, a German who in 1635 quitted the Swedish service for that of France, and subsequently com- manded the corps of Bernard de Weimar after the death of the latter. This eminently brave man was repeatedly wounded in battle, and lost several of his limbs, to which allusion is made in his epitaph in the Abbaye des Bons-Hommes at Passy : 11 dispersa partout ses membres et sa gloire, Tout abattu qull fut, il demeura vainqueur. Son sang fut en cent lieux le prix de la victoire, Et Mars ne lui laissa rien d entier que le coeur.' 1 8th Room: Marshal Schomberg, born in 1616 at Heidelberg, served successively in the armies of the Netherlands, France, Brandenburg, and England, and fell at the battle of the Boyne in 1690. 9th Room: Vauban (d. 1707). The Salle des Rois 1 to the right, contains modern portraits by Signol, Rouget, Blondel, and Steuben, of all (67) the monarchs of France, from Clovis to Napoleon III. Several apartments, adjoining the latter towards the right, contain Residences royales, and an- cient chateaux. The Qalerie de Louis XIII., facing the garden, is next visited : *Schnetz, Battle of Rocroy (1643). — Then three more rooms with portraits of marshals : 34. VERSAILLES. 197 1st Room: Saxe (d. 1750); Lctwendal (d. 1750), natural son of Frederick III. of Denmark, successively in the Austrian, Saxon, and Russian service; both portraits by Couder. 2nd Room: Prince Soubise (d. 1789), defeated at the battle of Rossbach by Frederick the Great, in 1757. 3rd Room : Luckner , first in the service of Hanover during the Seven Years' War, then (1763) in that of France, guillotined in 1794; Marat (d. 1815); Gerard (d. 1852). The three following rooms contain portraits of all the Mar- shals of the Empire, the next two ' G'uerriers celtbres\ not mar- shals, from Godfrey de Bouillon (d. 1190) to Eugene Beauharnais (d. 1824), viceroy of Italy. Finally the halls containing 'Bustes d'officiers generaux tues en combattant pour la France, among them General de Brea, who perished in the revolution of 1848. The Gardens and Park, with their numerous fountains and celebrated Orangerie, some of the trees in which are several cen- turies old, are nearly in the same condition as when first laid out by Le Notre (d. 1700). the most eminent landscape gardener of his time. The greater part of the grounds, which are not of very considerable extent, may be surveyed from the terrace. The garden contains a vast number of groups , statues and vases, some of which are copies from celebrated antiques, others originals of the 17th cent. Some of the finest groups adorn the Parterres du Midi et du Nord; by the steps which descend to the garden are two large basins, the Fontaine de Diane, and the Fontaine da Point du Jour, both adorned with fine. groups of animals by Keller. At the foot of the steps is situated the Bassin de Latone, consisting of several concentric basins, surmounted by a magnifi- cent group in white marble of *Latona with Apollo and Diana, by Marsy. The goddess entreats Jupiter to chastise the peasants of Lycia who refused her a draught of water; they are accord- ingly metamorphosed, some partially, others entirely, into frogs or tortoises (Ovid's Metamorph. VI, 313 — 381) which spout forth water on Latona in every direction. The Statues and Groups in the crescent, or Pourtour de La- tone, are the finest in the garden ; to the left a singular statue representing Melancholy, by La Perdrix , the book, purse, and bandaged mouth being supposed to indicate its peculiarities. Then Antinous, Tigranes, Faunus, Bacchus, Faustina, Hercules Commo- dus, Urania, Jupiter, and Ganymede, and opposite, Venus in the shell. — On the other side the Dying Gladiator, Apollo Belve- dere, Urania, Mercury, Antinous, Silenus , Venus Kallipygos. Tiridates, Fire, Lyric Poetry. At the extremity of the Tapis Vert, a long, narrow lawn, is situated the Bassin d' Apollon, a magnificent fountain, environed with tritons, nymphs, and dolphins. In the centre Neptune and 198 34. VERSAILLES. Amphitrite are represented seated in an enormous shell , on the E. side Proteus, and on the W. the Ocean. The upper border is adorned with a number of vases ornamented with reliefs. The Canal, situated to the W. of the Bassin d'Apollon , is nearly 1 M. in length. Its form is that of a cross, the two arms of which together measure about 2/3 M. ; the N. portion extends to the vicinity of the Grand Trianon. To the right and left in the grounds of the park, which are laid out in a symmetrical but simple style, are several other ba- sins (Bassin d'Apollon, Bassin de Latone, la Salle de Bal ou des Rocailles, Bosquet de la Colonnade, Bosquet des Dames, Bassin d'Encelade, VObelisque ou les Cent Tuyaux). These , however, possess nothing worthy of mention, and need not be visited unless the fountains (les grandes eaux) are playing, an imposing spectacle computed to cost about 10,000 francs on each occasion, but for the present discontinued. The greater of these fountains, the Bassin du Dragon ou VAllee d J Eau, and the Bassin de Neptune, throw up columns of water upwards of 80 ft. in height. Vast numbers of visitors used to flock to Versailles on these occasions and all the public conveyances were crowded. The Grand Trianon (admission gratis on Sund., Tuesd., and Thursd., 12 — 4 o'clock), a handsome villa situated about 3 / 4 M. from the terrace of the palace, was erected by Louis XIV. for Madame de Maintenon. It contains several sumptuous apartments, and some tine modern works of art. The Salle de Malachite de- rives its name from the magnificent basin, presented by the Em- peror of Russia to Napoleon I. The interior hardly merits a visit, if the traveller's time be limited. The Petit Trianon, a short distance to the N.E., was erected by Louis XV. for Madame Dubarry. It is tastefully fitted up, but contains nothing remarkable. The garden, howewer, is worthy of a visit. It possesses some magnificent trees, and an artificial lake, once a favourite resort of Marie Antoinette and the Duchess of Orleans. The villa was also occasionally occupied by the Em- press Marie Louise. Between the two villas a l Musee des Voitures' has recently been formed , containing a collection of state-carriages from the commencement of the first Empire to the baptism of the Imperial prince in 1856. Strangers may now, instead of returning to Paris, prefer to proceed to St. Germain-en- Lay e (p. 201), to which an omnibus runs daily about 4 p. m. in iy 2 hr., starting from the Cafe des Reservoirs (office), at the corner of the Rue des Reservoirs and the Rue de la Paroisse ; fare 2 fr. The route is uninteresting, the road roughly paved with stones at places. At Louveciennes, half way , rise the lofty arches of an aqueduct constructed by Louis XIV. 199 35. St. Cloud and S&vres. Railways to St. Cloud and Sevres see pp. 181, 182. Steam- boat see p. 29. Horse-railway from the Place de la Concorde (60 c). The route as far as Auteuil has already been described at p. 183. Here the road to St. Cloud diverges to the r., intersects the fortifications, and in a straight direction traverses the S. ex- tremity of the Bois de Boulogne. Beyond the suburb of Boulogne, almost exclusively peopled by 'blanchisseuses', the Seine is crossed. On the opposite bank rises the small town of St. Cloud (with 3000 inhab.), with a new Romanesque parish church. The Palace of St. Cloud, situated on an eminence above the town, was erected in 1572, by the wealthy financier Jerome de Gondy, purchased in 1658 by Louis XIV., and presented to 'his brother the Duke of Orleans, whose family occupied it for more than a century. In 1782 it was purchased by Louis XVI. for Marie Antoinette, with whom it was a favourite resort. — Here in 1589 Henri III. was assassinated by the fanatical Dominican, Jacques Clement. In one of the saloons, termed the Salle de VOrangerie , the Council of Five Hundred held their sessions. On March 9th, 1799, Bonaparte with his grenadiers dispersed the assembly , and a few days later caused himself to be nominated First Consul. To these reminiscences of the first rise of his power is perhaps to be ascribed the marked preference which the emperor always manifested for St. Cloud. On July 3rd, 1815, the second capitulation of Paris was signed at the chateau , in which Blucher's head-quarters were established. Here, too, in 1830 Charles X. signed the fatal decrees (abolition of the freedom of the press, dissolution of the Chambers, alteration of the statutes respecting elections) which immediately preceded the revolution of July. St. Cloud afterwards became the principal summer residence of Napoleon III., and contained several choice works of art. These have all been destroyed, with the exception of Pradiers Sappho, eight modern pictures by Vernet, and some fine speci- mens of Gobelins tapestry. During the Prussian siege of Paris in 1870 — 71, St. Cloud, which had been almost entirely deserted by its inhabitants, was partially occupied by the Germans , and although occasionally bombarded by Fort Valerien , does not appear to have played a prominent part in the operations. The chateau, the spacious barrack near it, and many houses in the town, were completely burned down in October, 1870. With regard to the origin of the fire at the chateau the accounts differ. The Germans asserted 200 35. ST. CLOUD AND SfeVRES. that it had been ignited by a shell from Mont Valerien , while the custodians and the inhabitants of the neighbourhood denied that it had been struck. The lire, moreover, broke out on Oct. 12th, several days after the armistice had been concluded. About the same period the barracks and a number of houses were burned by the invaders from 'strategic considerations', as they did not wish to occupy the place themselves , and deemed it necessary to render it useless to their enemy. It is probable, therefore, that the chateau was destroyed for the same reason. No town in the environs of Paris has suffered so severely as St. Cloud, or pre- sented so melancholy an appearance after the termination of the war. The terrace in front of the palace commands a magnificent prospect. The park, laid out by the celebrated Le Notre, and considered his master-piece, contains a still finer point of view. Quitting the palace by the same route, the visitor takes the first path to t' e right and proceeds in a straight direction through the avenue , passing La Haute et la Basse Cascade , the former surmounted by a fine group by Adam , representing the Seine and the Marne. The fountains do not at present play. The ''Jet Geant% or 1 Grand Jet d J Eau% to the left of the cascades, rises to a height of 140 ft. By the small fish-pond the paved path to the left , by the iron railing, should be taken. The visitor soon after turns to the right, and finally ascends a grassy slope to the left, opposite the W. side and the gardens of the palace. On the summit of the hill formerly stood the Lanteme de DSmosthene, about 25 minutes' walk from the terrace of the pa- lace. This was a lofty tower erected by Napoleon I. in imitation of the Monument of Lysicrates, the to-called Lantern of Demosthenes at Athens. The tower was destroyed by the Prussians during the autumn of 1870, but the site is worthy of a visit for the sake of the *view. Far below flows the Seine, to the left is the bridge of St. Cloud, beyond it the town and the Bois de Boulogne, then the triumphal arch, and in the background Montmartre ; from among the houses of Paris rise St. Vincent de Paul, the Dome of the Invalides, St. Sulpice, the Pantheon, and (the last dome to the right) the church of Val de Grace; to the r. of Paris the vil- lage of Issy (p. 182), with its ruined fort. On the farther side of the city the cemetery of Pere Lachaise may also be distin- guished. At the base of the hill on which the tower stood , a strong- battery was planted by the Prussians. The 'pavilion' lower down, which was occupied by the gardeners and custodians of the park, was riddled with the projectiles of the French. If the traveller now pursue his route towards the right, then turn to the left, cross a bridge, and where the path divides select 35. ST. CLOUD AND SEVRES. 201 that to the right, he will in J /4 nr - reach the small town of Sevres (Restaurant au Berceau), one of the most ancient in the environs of Paris. The celebrated * Porcelain Manufactory, situated '/4 M. farther, has been the property of government for upwards of a century, and employs 180 hands. The public are admitted (after 11 o'clock) to the Exhibition Rooms only (1 fr. gratuity), which contain a great number of specimens of the products of the manufactory, the most remarkable being the large paintings on porcelain, most of them copies from celebrated Italian masters. Stained glass is likewise here manufactured, and may be compared with some beautiful specimens of German workmanship from Munich , pre- sented in 1838. The Musee Ceramique (open to the public on Thursdays), founded in 1800 by Alexander Brongniart, is an extensive col- lection of objects relating to the history of porcelain-making, and of specimens of modern manufactures from all parts of the world. Among other articles may be mentioned those of the period of Bernard Palissy (15th cent.), the inventor of glazing. The collection, however, is more interesting to the connoisseur than the ordinary visitor. The old chateau in which the manufactory is at present established is in a dilapidated condition*, and was seriously damaged by balls and other projectiles during the first siege of Paris in 1870 — 71. The most valuable part of the collection, however, had been removed to a place of safety, and has since been re-established in the chateau. The works will probably be transferred to a new building now in course of construction nearer the Pont de Sevres. Railway (rive gauche) see p. 182; the trains of this line also stop at Sevres , those to Versailles at half past every hour , to Paris 10 min. before every hour. 36. St. Germain-en-Laye. Railway-station (Rue St. Lazare 124), and omnibus see p. 27. Trains start from Paris every hour from 7. 35 a. m. to 9. 35 p. m., from St. Germain every hour from 7 a. in. to 10 p. m., also a later train each way on Sundays and holidays; duration of journey 42 min.; fares 1 fr. 50 c, and 1 fr. 25 c. ; return-tickets at a reduced rate. There are also two omnibus routes, one by Nanterre, the other by Bougival, the latter agreeable, and recommended to those whose time is not limited. The first portion of the route as far as Asnitres , where the line to Versailles diverges to the left, is described at p. 180. Nanterre, the following station, is a village where tradition 202 36. ST. GERMATN-EN-LAYE. alleges that Ste. Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris, was born in 425. The chateau of Malmaison, not visible from the line, situated in the wood to the left, 1^2 M. from the Station of Rueil, was the residence of the Empress Josephine after her divorce (1809). She died here in 1814, and was interred in the small church of Rueil, which is also remarkable for its Saxon architecture. The lateral chapels of the choir contain the monuments of the Empress and Queen Hortense. The former, erected by Eugene Beauharnais and Queen Hortense, executed by Cartellier, represents the em- press in a kneeling posture, and bears the inscription. l A Josephine, Eugene et Hortense, 1825\ The monument to Queen Hortense is of similar design, and bears the inscription : l A la Reine Hor- tense, son fits Napoleon III/ After the battle of Waterloo, Napoleon retired to the chateau of Malmaison, but on the approach of the Prussian troops from Argenteuil and Chatou quitted it, June 29th, 1815. In 1842 the chateau became the property of Queen Chris- tina of Spain, who resided in it for several years, and in 1861 it was repurchased by Napoleon III. As the train proceeds , the arches of the aqueduct which supplies the fountains of Versailles are perceived on the summit of the wooded hills to the left. Near Chatou the line crosses the Seine, which is here divided into two arms by an island, and beyond Le Vesinet again reaches the river, whence it ascends a considerable incline to St. Germain. St. Germain - en - Laye is a quiet town (14,283 inhab.) of similar origin with Versailles. It is indebted for its foundation to the Palace, a large, gloomy edifice, constructed principally of brick, in the vicinity of the railway-station, and once the favourite residence of Francis I., Henry II., Henry IV., and the birthplace of Henry II., Charles IX., and Loui's XIV. It was finally quitted by the last-named monarch , who pre- sented it to Madame de Montespan, and transferred his residence to Versailles. Napoleon I. converted the palace into a school for cavalry-officers. Subsequently it served as a military prison, and is now destined for the reception of a museum of Gallo-Roman antiquities. The church, situated in the Place du Chateau, facing the palace, contains a handsome monument in white marble, erected by George IV. of England to the memory of James II., who during his exile resided in the palace, and died there in 1701. The monument has recently been restored by order of Queen Victoria. The principal charm of St. Germain consists in the *Terrace, which extends for upwards of l 1 ^ M. along the E. slope of the hill at a considerable elevation above the Seine, and commands a magnificent prospect of the valley, the winding river, and the 37. ST. DENIS: 203 well-peopled plain. At the base of the hill is situated the village of Le Pecq, to the right Marly, the aqueduct (see above), and Louveciennes , once the country residence of Madame Dubarry, and in the distance the towers of St. Denis. Paris itself is con- cealed from view by Mont Valerien. The beautiful and extensive forest of St. Germain is preserved in admirable order, and affords abundant shade and retirement. The popular Fete des Loges, which formerly took place in the forest on the first Sunday in September and the two following days, derived its name from Les Loges , a country residence erected by Anne of Austria, consort of Louis XIII. The railway to Rouen traverses the forest. (One-horse carr. 2 fr. per hour, on Sundays life ft., two-horse carr. ^2 fr- more). The elevated and salubrious situation of St. Germain renders it a favourite summer residence of the Parisians , as well as of a number of English families. At the S. extremity of the terrace is situated a pavilion com- manding a magnificent view , alleged to have been the birth-place of Louis XIV., now converted into a ^restaurant, 5 minutes' walk from the railway-station. (Charges at the restaurants in the town more moderate; adjoining the station *Galle.) Omnibus (2 fr. ) , three times daily to Versailles by Marly, in lf/2 hour. 37. St. Denis. Chemin de fer du Nord , station in the Place Roubaix (PI., red 10); trains every hour to St. Denis in 12 min. ; fares 80, 60, 40 c, return tickets at a reduced rate. The Service circulaire de la gare du Nord a la gare de V Guest runs to St. Denis, Epinay , Enghien (p. 210), and Ermont , returning to Paris by Sannois , Argenteuil , Colombes , and Asnieres (p. 181). Tickets for this circuit , which may be broken at any of the stations, and affords another convenient route for visitors to St. Denis, 1 fr. 80 c. , 1 fr. 35 c, and 1 fr. Omnibuses which start every half hour from the suburb of La Chapelle (Barritre de St. Denis), situated to the E. of Mont- martre , convey passengers to St. Denis in half-an-hour ; others start from Les Batignolles (Barritre de Clichy), to the W. of Mont- martre , and proceed to St. Denis by St. Ouen in 50 min.; fares 30 — 50 0. , 'correspondances' see p. 27. In the chateau at St. Ouen in 1814 Louis XVIII. before entering Paris signed the proclamation by which the 'Charte' was promised to the country. He afterwards presented the chateau to Madame du Cayla , who in 1856 bequeathed it to the city , on condition that a monument should be erected to the memory of Louis XVIII. The bequest was, however, declined. 204 .37. ST. DENIS. A visit to Montmartre and its cemetery may be conveniently combined with an excursion to St. Denis , if the traveller have an entire day at his disposal. The station at St. Denis is 3 / 4 M. distant from the abbey- church. The bridge is crossed , and the town is reached by the principal street towards the r. , while the new Gothic church is left on the 1. Near the station are several small restaurants. St. Denis, with a population of 16,000 , is solely indebted for its celebrity to its ancient * Abbey Church, which the monarchs of France have chosen for their burial-place. The edifice, which is at present undergoing complete restoration, is one of the finest monuments of French Gothic, and replete with the most inter- esting historical associations. About the year 250 a chapel was erected here in honour of St. Dionysius (St. Denis) the Areopagite , who is said to have suffered martyrdom on Montmartre (mons martyrurn). Dagobert I. , king of Austrasia , and subsequently of the whole of France , founded a Benedictine Abbey here, and about the year 630 commenced the construction of a new church. During a long series of years, masses for his soul were celebrated by the monks on Jan. 19th, the anniversary of his death. A new edifice was erected on the same spot by Pepin in 754, and completed by Charlemagne in 775. No trace of either of these ancient structures now exists. Suger (d. 1152), the celebrated abbot of St. Denis, the ad- viser of Louis VI. and Louis VII., and administrator of the king- dom during the absence of the latter in the Holy Land, de- molished the church, and caused a more handsome edifice to be erected on the site, which was consecrated in 1144. The porta) and a portion of the towers of the present day belong to that period. A century later the church was partially destroyed by light- ning, and was restored in 1234 — 1284 by St. Louis. During subsequent ages it underwent numerous alterations, but under Louis Philippe was judiciously restored in the original style. During the first revolution the sacred edifice, once so rich in relics and sacred ornaments, was entirely pillaged and desecrated, and converted successively into a 'temple of reason', a depot of artillery, and a salt-magazine. In accordance with the sacrilegious spirit of the day, the name of St. Denis was abolished and the town called Franciade. The building being in a dilapidated and dangerous condition , it was afterwards proposed to demolish it entirely and convert the site into a public market-place. From this fate, however, it was rescued by Napoleon I., who by a decree of Feb. 19th, 1806, caused the edifice to be repaired and restored to sacred uses. 37. ST. DENIS. 205 In 1837 the N. tower was destroyed by lightning and, although partially re-erected, was subsequently found to be in so defective a condition that it was entirely pulled down. In 1859 — 70 the church underwent a thorough restoration, which was approaching completion when the war of 1870 — 71 broke out. St. Denis was occupied by the French throughout the entire period of the first siege, towards the close of which the Prussians resolved to dislodge them. During the last three days before the capitulation of Paris they accordingly bombarded the town with unremitting violence. Many houses were destroyed on this occasion (Jan. 25th — 28th, 1871), and the abbey church sustained severe injury. The town was occupied by the Prussians after the capitulation , and was finally evacuated by them in Septem- ber, 1871. The facade of the church contains three receding portals adorned with numerous sculptures. Those of the central portal represent the Last Judgment ; at the sides the Wise and Foolish Virgins. The S. portal contains a representation of the martyr- dom of St. Denis ; on either side of the entrance are curious sculptures of the occupations peculiar to each month of the year. The N. portal belongs to the period of the restoration. A limited portion only of the church is accessible to visitors, who are escorted by the verger (1 fr.). A sufficient survey, however , may be obtained of the noble proportions of the church and its numerous monuments. A decree of 1859 provided that the ancient burial place of the kings of France should also be that of her emperors , and an entire restoration of the church was commenced. The style of the 12th cent, is most carefully ad- hered to , and the pavement of the aisles has been lowered to its original level. The church is cruciform; length 354, breadth 122 ft. The Stained Glass of the windows is almost exclusively modern; the two oriel-windows, especially that on the S. side with the genealogy of Christ, merit particular attention. Those of the galleries above contain a perplexing multitude of portraits, saints, fathers, popes, kings and queens, abbots, etc. In the large windows of the nave are 55 large figures of kings and queens from Clovis and Clotilde to Philip the Bold and Isabella of Arragon; in the N. transept events from the crusades and the life of St. Louis; in the S. transept the restoration of St. Denis by Napoleon, interment of Louis XVIU. , the visit of Louis Philippe to the church, and armorial bearings; in the choir the history of St. Denis. All these windows are about to undergo careful restoration. Divine service is now performed in a portion of the aisle, termed the Chceur d'Hicer. The altar-piece, representing the mar- tyrdom of St. Denis, is by Casp. de Grayer, a pupil of Rubens. 206 37. ST. DENIS. At the entrance the tombstone of the abbot Antoine de la Haye fd. 1550). An exhaustive enumeration of the monuments in the church cannot be given until the work of restoration is completed. The places assigned to them after the Revolution have been entirely changed, as every endeavour is made to restore the edifice to its original condition. Among the most interesting may be mentioned those of Dayobert (d. 638) and his queen Nantilde, probably dating from the 13th cent. The three singular reliefs of the former re- present the delivery of the monarch's soul from purgatory, through the intervention of St. Denis, St. Martin, and St. Maurice, and his reception into heaven. The N. transept contains the lofty monument of Louis XII. (d. 1515) and his queen Anne of Bretagne, designed in 1527 by Paolo Poncio. The king and queen are represented in a recum- bent posture on the sarcophagus , which is surrounded by twelve arches, richly decorated and supported by graceful pilasters, be- neath which are statues of the twelve apostles. The pedestal is adorned with reliefs representing the entry of Louis XII. into Milan (1499) , his passage of the Genoese mountains (1507), the victory over the Venetians at Agnadello (1509) and their final submission. The adjoining moument of Henry II. (d. 1599) and Cathe- rine de Medicis , executed by Germain Pilon , is of similar design ; the recumbent effigy of the queen, and the drapery deserve examination; the reliefs represent faith, hope, charity, and good works. The S. transept contains the monument of Francis I. (d. 1547) and his queen Claude, the most sumptuous of these three monu- ments of the 16th cent. , designed by Delorme, and executed by several eminent sculptors of that period. The basement is adorned with numerous reliefs of scenes from the battles of Ma- rignano (1551) and Cerisoles (1544). Another historically interesting tomb is that of ' Noble homme Messire Bertrand da Guesclin, comte de Longueville et Connestable de France (d. 1380), one of France's most heroic warriors in her contests with England. In the left eye is indicated the wound which the constable received in battle. The tomb of his companion in arms, the Constable Louis de Sancerre (d. 1402) is in the same chapel. The Sacristy is adorned with ten modern paintings re- lating to the history of the abbey : Monsiau , Coronation of Marie de Medicis ; *Gros, Charles V. and Francis I. visiting the abbey ; Menjaud, Death of Louis VI. ; Guerin, Philip III. presents the abbey with the relics of St. Louis ; Barbier , St. Louis re- ceiving the Oriuamme, the sacred banner of France formerly pre- 37. ST. DENIS. 207 served in the church; Landon , St. Louis restoring the burial vaults ; Meynier , Charlemagne at the consecration of the church ; Gamier, Obsequies of king Dagobert; Monsiau , Preaching of St. Denis; Heim , Discovery of the remains of the kings in 1817. The sacristan, if desired, also shows the treasury of the church, containing valuable ecclesiastical robes and vessels. A suit of armour preserved here is alleged to have belonged to Joan of Arc. At the High-Altar , on April 1st, 1810, the nuptials of Napo- leon and the Archduchess Marie Louise were solemnized , and on the same spot, in 1593, Henri IV. was received into the pale of the Roman Catholic church. The four stone slabs in front of the raised choir mark the entrance to the Crypt, which was restored by order of Napo- leon III. Its history is replete with vicissitudes. The vaults, which since the time of Dagobert (d. 683) had served as a burial-place for the royal family of France, extended as far as the W. side of the crypt only. When the last vacant space was filled after the death of the Infanta Maria Theresa (d. 1683), consort of Louis XIV. , that monarch directed the vaults to be extended and a burial-place to be constructed for the Bourbons. This was accomplished by an encroachment on the crypt. But few members of this family had here found a resting- place when the revolution broke out. { La main puissante de la Republique doit effacer impitoyablement ces epitaphes superb es et demolir ces mausolees qui rappelleraient des rois V effrayant souve- nir were the words used by B arrive before the Convention on July 31st, 1793; and a commission was accordingly formed to carry out this sacrilegious proposition. The Convention was also influenced by the consideration that the government was in want of ammunition , and therefore decreed that the metal thus obtained should be employed in casting guns and bullets. By a singular coincidence, the work of desecration was com- menced on Oct. 12th, 1793, the precise day on which, exactly one century before , Louis XIV. had caused the demolition of the ancient tombs of the emperors at Spires. Hentz , the agent em- ployed by the Convention, was, moreover, a namesake of the super- intendent of the work of destruction at Spires. The remains of Louis XIV. himself were among the first which were disinterred, and a few days later those of Louis XV. ^ Merer edi le 16 Octobve a onze heuves du matin, dans le moment oil la veine Mavie An- toinette d J Autriche , femme de Louis XVI., eat la tete trancliee, on enleva le cercueil de Louis XV. mort le 10. Mai 177 4* is the testimony of an eye-witness. In order the more speedily to ac- complish the work, the wall of the crypt was broken through, and the bodies of the illustrious dead , among others those of Dago- bert and his Queen Nanthilde, Louis X., Charles V., Charles VI., 208 37. ST. DENIS. Louis XIII., etc. , conveyed to trenches (''fosses communes') dug in the adjacent Cimetiere de Valois. These atrocities were completed on Oct. 25th, but even with these the sacrilegious Convention does not appear to have been satisfied. The eye-witness of their proceedings already mentioned goes on to relate: c Quelques jours aprts , les ouvriers avec le commissaire aux plombs ont He au convent des Carmelites faire V extraction du cercueil de Madame Louise de France , fille de Louis XV., morte le 23 dec. 1787, agee de 50 ans et environ six mois. Us I'ont apporte dans le cimetiere et le corps a etc depose dans la- fosse commune ; il etait tout entier , mais en pleine putrefaction ; ses habits de carmelite etaient trts-bien conserves 3 '. On the restoration of the abbey in 1806 , Napoleon decreed that the crypt should be employed as a place of sepulture for himself and his successors. Only one member of his family, however, was interred here, the young Napoleon Charles, the son of his brother Louis. The coffin was afterwards conveyed to St. Leu , near Senlis , and there re-interred with the remains of Charles Buonaparte , who died at Montpellier in 1783. The church of St. Leu was redecorated by the late emperor and adorned with a monument to his mother Queen Hortense , to whose memory a service is annually performed. Louis XV1IL, in 1817, caused the remains of his ancestors, as well as those of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, who had been interred in the churchyard of the Madeleine , to be re-interred in the crypt. He himself (d. 1821), the Due de Berry, who was assassinated in Feb. , 1820 , and several of his children were the last of the Bourbons here interred. Charles X. died and was interred at Goerz, in Austria, in 1836. Louis Philippe had destined the ancient chateau of Dreux for his family burial-place, but was buried at Weybridge in England, where he died in Aug., 1850. Napoleon III. had revived the plan of his great ancestor and by a decree of Jan. 1859 destined this to be the resting place of the French emperors. The crypt was in consequence en- tirely remodelled ; the former monuments were removed and some of them placed in the church above. Until farther notice the crypt is not accessible to the public. In 1817, when the Abbey recovered its ancient privileges, Louis XVIII. directed all the monuments which had been rescued in 1793, and had been preserved, with many from other churches, in the Musee des Petits Augustins (Ecole des Beaux Arts, p. 162), to be brought back to St. Denis. A flight of steps formerly descended from the N. aisle to the crypt. The numerous figures, and a few monuments, none of them dating earlier than the 13th cent., have been arranged as far as possible in chronological order. The first four halls contain the monuments (32) of the Merovingians and Carlovingians, from Clovis the Great, king of the Salic Franks (d. 511). 37. ST. DENIS. 209 to Carlman (d. 771), king of Australia. (Charlemagne was by his own wish interred at Aix-la-Chapelle instead of here ; see p. 260). Then Hugh Capet (d. 996) and his descendants (34), down to Charles IV. (d. 1328). Near the former are several sarcophagi, obscurely placed , con- taining the remains which were re-exhumed in 1817 (see p. 208). In the first semicircular space are the "sarcophagi of the two young princes , Philippe , the brother , and Louis , the son of St. Louis , both of whom died in the early part of the 13th cent. They formerly reposed in the Abbey of Royaumont. Adjacent are two magnificent commemorative stones , adorned with gold and colours , recording the victory gained by Philip Augustus over the German Emperor Otho IV. at Bouvines in Flan- ders in 1215. Napoleon I. caused the new entrance to the crypt to be transferred to the spot where the aperture had been made in 1793 in order to remove the coffins. Louis XVIII. directed this to be re-closed and replaced by a Chapelle Expiatoire , gaudily painted and containing four marble tablets with the names of all the members of the royal family interred here , as well as of the abbots and other celebrated personages. Opposite to it is the entrance of the vault constructed by Louis XIV. The House of Valois begins with Philip VI. (1350), and terminates with Henry III. , who was assassinated by the Dominican Jacques Clement in 1589. There were formerly 47 monuments here, the finest of which is that of *Duke Louis of Orleans , second son of Charles V. (d. 1380) , and his consort Valentine, Duchess of Milan , the work of Italian artists of the 16th cent., in the Renaissance style. A marble vase contains the heart of Francis I. (d. 1547). The House of Bourbon commences with Henry IV. , who in 1593 was here received into the pale of the Rom. Cath. church, and was assassinated by Ravaillac in 1610. It consists of 15 monuments placed in the halls of the S. outlet of the crypt, most of them being fragments from other tombs, often clumsily put together ^ also kneeling statues of Louis XVI. and his consort , destined for a different site , and groups from the monuments of the Due de Berry and Louis XVIII. The Tower, 200ft. in height, is ascended by a staircase to which a door in the S. portal leads. The summit commands a magnificent ^panorama: on an eminence to the N. the tower of Montmorency; S.E. the village of Aubervillers-les-Vertus with its fort, and contiguous to it the Canal de St. Denis, which in the vicinity unites with the Seine, and in connection with the Canal St. Martin cuts off the wide curve which the river describes between the Pont d'Austerlitz and St. Denis. To the S. lies Paris, in which the most conspicuous objects are the Pantheon, Mont- martre, Dome des Invalides, and Arc de l'Etoile. To the S.W. is situated the village of St. Ouen (p. 203), beyond which rises the fortifications of Mont Valerien. The extensive buildings which adjoin the abbey-church of St. Denis were erected by Louis XV. on the site of the monastery. Subsequently to 1815 an Educational Establishment for sisters and daughters of members of the Legion of Honour, founded by Napoleon in 1801, and originally established in the chateau of Ecouen, 6 M. to the N. of St. Denis, was transferred to this secularised monastery. This 'Maison d'Education de la Legion d'Honneur is fitted up for the reception of upwards of oOO pupils, who enjoy educational advantages of the most superior des- cription. Their dress is entirely black, and the discipline partakes Baedeker. Paris. 3rd Edition. )4 210 38. FONT A 1 NE BLE AU . of an almost military character. Admission may be procured by applying to the Grand Chancellor of the Legion, who resides in Paris, Rue de Lille 64. Enghien-les-Bains, a small watering-place possessing a sul- phureous spring, a park and lake, is reached by the trains of the Northern line in 12min. from St. Denis. The grounds afford delightful promenades and are a favourite holiday resort of the Parisians. On an eminence to the right, surrounded with fruit-trees, is situated Montmorency, another popular place of summer resort. It is well known from having once been the residence of Rous- seau, who spent two years (1756 — 1758) in the house termed "VErmitage de Jean Jacques Rousseau', and there wrote his Nouvelle Helo'ise. This habitation, which was originally a hermi- tage, was fitted up for the use of the philosopher by the Countess d'Epinay, in order to prevent his return to Geneva. During the revolution the Hermitage became national property and was for a short period occupied by Robespierre, who spent a night in it three days previous to his execution (July 28th, 1794). In 1798 the Hermitage was purchased by the eminent composer Gretry, who died here in 1813. His heart was interred in the garden, where a monument was erected to his memory, but in conse- quence of a law-suit was afterwards conveyed to Liege, his native place. To this the inscription alludes : "Gretry, ton genie est partout, mats ton caur nest quid. Les Liegois nen ont enleve que la poussiere" . The Hermitage (access sometimes denied) has recently been much altered, and no longer contains any memorials of Rousseau. The garden, however, retains its former aspect. A stone bears the inscription : 'Ici J. J. Rousseau aimait a se reposer . The laurel near it is said to have been planted by him. 4^ An omnibus runs in 20 min. from the station of Enghien- les-Bains to Montmorency (fare i/g fr.). Passengers desirous of visiting the Hermitage quit the omnibus a short distance before Montmorency is reached, and enter the Rue Gretry. The Hermitage is a small, red house near the extremity of the street, to the garden of which strangers are generally admitted, on ringing at the gate and applying for permission. 38. Fontainebleau. By the Chemiti de fer de Lyon in 2 hrs. ; eighteen trains daily \ fares 6 fr. 60, 4 fr. 95, 3 fr. 65 c. ; return-tickets, available for the day of issue, at reduced rates. The station (PL, blue 12) is in the Boulevart Mazas, on the right bank of the Seine, in the vicinity of the Pont cTAusterlitz. Spe- cial omnibuses start from the points mentioned at p. 28 half an hour be- fore the departure of each train. "Those who desire to visit Fontainebleau should devote an entire day to the excursion, and leave Paris by an early train (views on the left side), 38. K0NTA1NEBLKAIJ. 211 reaching their destination in 2 hrs. One hour will probably suffice for the inspection of the palace and garden , after which a drive or walk to the Gorges de Franchard will occupy 2 — 3 hrs. , and a visit to the Fort de FEmpereur 1 hr. If the stranger purposes dining at Fontainebleau he will do well on his arrival to order a 'diner a 4 ou 5 fr. par tete 1 at a hotel, for the hour at which he intends to return from his walk. Soon after quitting Paris the train crosses the Marne near its confluence with the Seine at the station of Charenton (the lunatic asylum is on an eminence to the left, p. 140). Alfort, on the opposite bank of the Marne, possesses a Veterinary School. To the right and left rise the forts of Jvry and Charenton which here command the course of the Seine. Villeneuve St. Georges, a place of some importance, with a suspension-bridge over the Seine, is picturesquely situated on the slope of a wooded eminence. The beautiful green dale of the Yeres, a small but deep river, bordered with rows of willows and poplars, is now traversed. Picturesque country residences, small parks and thriving mills are passed in rapid succession. The next stations are. Montgeron and Brunoy. The chain of hills to the left, as well as the plain, are studded with innumer- able dwellings. Brunoy is charmingly situated in the midst of plantations, and is inhabited almost exclusively by wealthy Pa- risians and retired men of business. Before Brunoy is reached the train crosses the Yeres, and beyond the village passes over a viaduct which affords an ad- mirable prospect. The valley of the Yeres is now quitted, and the district be- comes flatter. Stations Combs-La- Ville, Lieusaint and Cesson. The Seine is again reached and crossed by a handsome iron bridge at Melun (Hotel de France), an ancient town with a po- pulation of 11,000, known to the Romans under the name of Methalum or Melodunum, and picturesquely situated on an emi- nence above the river. The Church of Notre Dame, dating from the 10th cent., and the modern Gothic Town-hall are fine edifices. After affording several picturesque glimpses of the valley of the Seine, the train reaches the forest of Fontainebleau. The last station is Bois-le-Roi. The station of Fontainebleau is situated upwards of 1 M. from the palace. The town [Hotel de Londres ; Aigle Noir; Hotel de France; a Cafe adjoins the Aigle Noir), which owes its origin principally to the proximity of the palace, and contains 10,500 inhabitants, is a quiet place with broad and clean streets. The town contains nothing to arrest the attention of the stranger, except perhaps the Statue of General Damesme, erected in 1851 in the Place du Palais de Justice. This officer, a native of Fontainebleau, was killed during the revolution of June, 1848, when at the head of the guards he was in the act of tearing- down a flag from a barricade near the Pantheon. 14* 212 38. FONTATNEBLEAU The *Palace (accessible daily), situated on the W. side of the town , is an extensive pile and possesses five different courts : Cour du Cheval Blanc, Cour de la Fontaine, Cour Ovale or du Donjon, Cour des Princes and Cour des Cuisines or de Henri IV. The spacious entrance court, the Cour du Cheval Blanc, sepa- rated from the street and the Place de Ferrare by an elegant iron railing, derives its appellation from a statue formerly placed here. It is sometimes termed the Cour des Adieux from having been the scene of Napoleon's parting from his old Guard and grenadiers, April 20th, 1814, after his abdication. Here, too, March 20th, 1815, on his return from Elba, the emperor reviewed the same grenadiers previous to marching with them to Paris. The site of the Palace is said to have been formerly occupied by a fortified chateau founded by Louis VII. about the year 1162. The present edifice was almost entirely constructed and decorated by a number of French and Italian architects, sculptors and artists under Francis I. (d. 1547), whose favourite residence it became. Henry IV. afterwards made considerable additions, and Louis XV. substituted a new wing for one of the period of Francis I. It subsequently became a favourite residence of Napoleon I., but after the restoration was much neglected. For its rescue from its dilapidated condition it was indebted to Louis Philippe. In addition to the historical associations mentioned in the course of the following description, a few more may now be enumerated. Here, June 4th, 1602, Henry IV. caused his com- panion in arms Marshal Biron to be arrested on a charge of high treason and a month later to be beheaded in the Bastille. Here in 1685 Louis XIV. signed the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, by which in 1598 Henry IV. had granted toleration to the Protestants. In 1808 the dethroned king Charles IV. of Spain was confined during 24 days in the palace by order of Napoleon. Here too, Dec. 16th, 1809, the divorce of Napoleon from Josephine took place. The palace is usually entered by a door below the Escalier du Fer -a- cheval, so called from being in the form of a horse- shoe, situated on the E. side of the Cour du Cheval Blanc. This central '•Pavilion des Peintures' is adorned with a bust of Francis If, placed there by order of Louis Philippe. An attendant (fee 1 fr.) here receives the visitor, and con- ducts him through a long series of apartments, many of them sump- tuously fitted up, but possessing no great artistic merit. A few only of the more interesting objects need here be enumerated. The Galerie des Assiettes derives its name from the porcelain plates with which the wainscoting is decorated. The Appartements des Reines Meres were once occupied by Catherine de Medicis (d. 1588, mother of three kings, Francis II., Charles IX., Henry III.), and by Anne of Austria (d. 1666 ), mother 38. FONTAINEBLEAl 1 . 213 of Louis XIV. The same apartments were assigned to Pope Pius VII. during his imprisonment from June, 1812, to January, 1814. Under Louis Philippe they were redecorated for the re- ception of the Duke and Duchess of Orleans. The pictures are by Coypel, Mignard, Vien, and other French masters ; the tapestry is from the Gobelins manufactory. The Galerie de Francois I., 200 ft. long and 20 ft. in width, contains 14 large frescoes by Rosso and Primaticcio, containing allegorical and mythological illustrations of the adventures of Francis I. The walls are decorated with reliefs, caryatides, trophies, and medallions, among which the letter 'F' and the salamander, the emblem of Francis I., are frequently repeated. In the Salle d' Abdication Napoleon signed the document by which he resigned his imperial dignity, April 6th, 1814. The table on which this was done is still shown. The adjacent sleeping apart- ment is in the same condition as when occupied by the emperor. In the Salle du Trone, which is richly decorated, and contains a magnificent chandelier of rock-crystal, the marshals of France formerly took their oaths of allegiance. The Galerie de Diane, a long corridor erected under Henry IV. and restored by Napoleon I. and Louis XVIII., contains a number of paintings from historical subjects ; the ceiling is decorated with mythological scenes from the lives of Apollo and Diana. (The Petits Appartements, situated below the Galerie de Diane, formerly accessible by ticket, are now under repair and closed to the public. They comprise the room in which Christina of Sweden, whilst a guest at the French court after her abdication in 1654, caused her unfortunate secretary and favourite Count Monaldeschi to be put to death after a pretended trial. Louis XIV. expressed his strong disapprobation of this proceeding, but took no farther steps in the matter, and for two years longer Christina continued to reside at Fontainebleau. A marble slab in the pavement of the small church of Avon, a village on the E. side of the park, about 1 M. from the palace, bears the inscription : l Ici fat inhume, le 15 octobre 26*57, a 6 heures du soir, le corps de Monaldeschi, mis h mort dans la galerie des Cerfs, a 4 heures et demie du meme jour.) The Galerie de Henri II., a spacious Salle de Bal, 101 ft. in length and 34 ft. in breadth, was erected by Francis I., and magnificently decorated by Henry II. for Diana of Poitiers. Her emblem, a half-moon, and the initials 'H' and 'D' frequently meet the eye. This sumptuous saloon was carefully restored under Louis Philippe. The paintings, the subjects of which are exclusively mytho- logical, were executed by Primaticcio and his pupil Nicolo del Abbate, and afterwards revived by Alaux. The chimney piece in white marble, decorated with lilies, is a fine work by Rondelet. 214 38. FONTAINE BLEAU. The Chapel of St. Saturnin contains windows tilled with stained glass executed at Sevres from designs by the Princess Marie of Orleans (p. 190). Here Pope Pius II. usually performed mass during his detention in the palace. The chapel occupies the site of a more ancient edifice founded by Louis VII., and consecrated by Thomas a Becket, at that time absent from England on account of his differences with Henry II. In the adjoining Galerie des Colonnes, of, the same dimensions as the Galerie de Henri II., the nuptials of the Duke of Orleans with the Princess of Mecklenburg were solemnised according to the rites of the Protestant church. The Roman Catholic ceremony took place in the Chapelle de la Trinite, where in 1725 the marriage of Louis XV. with Maria Lesczinska of Poland was cele- brated, and in 1810 Napoleon III. was baptised. The Porte Doree, of the period of Francis L, as the salamander which is occasionally introduced among the decorations indicates, a magnificent portal adorned with revived frescoes designed by Primaticcio, leads to the Cour Ovale, or Cour du Donjon, the most ancient in the palace, and remarkable for its Renaissance decorations. Facing this portal is the Allee de Maintenon. The Jardin Anglais, behind the palace, merits a visit. The Parterre was laid out by Le Notre in the style of that period. The Etang, a fine sheet of water, contains a number of remark- ably large carp, which visitors generally amuse themselves by feeding. The Chasselas de Fontainebleau are grapes of a superior quality which are trained here on long frames (Treilles du Roi). A lofty Obelisk at the S.W. extremity of a small plantation in the rear of the palace and garden, mar" s the spot where, at a cross path in the forest, the 'wild huntsman' is said to have appeared to Henry IV. shortly before his assassination by Ra- vaillac (1610). The *Forest of Fontainebleau has for centuries been the favourite chasse of the monarchs of France. It is abundantly stocked with deer and pheasants, and is remarkable for its strik- ingly picturesque scenery. It is 60 M. in circumference and possesses an area of 50,000 acres. It is intersected by paths in all directions, and affords the most delightful walks and rambles. Those who are desirous of thoroughly exploring the forest are recommended to procure the admirable Carte topographique de la foret et des environs de Fontainebleau by Denecourt (scale 1 : 100,000), which may be purchased (2 fr.) in the vestibule of the Escalier du Fer-a-Cheval (p. 212). Strangers whose time is limited may also visit the finest points under the guidance of a conducteur (about 5 fr. per diem), or by carriage (about 12 fr. ; Rue de France 49 and 59). Mules and donkeys may also be hired. Good walkers, however, furnished with the above mentioned map, may, with the aid of the numerous direction-posts which the 38. FONTAINEBLEAU. 215 forest contains, explore every part of it without difficulty. It should be observed that the blue marks, which M. Denecourt, the publisher of the map, has been instrumental in causing to be placed on trees and rocks, indicate the way to the most picturesque points ; the red marks of the forest administration point in the direction of the town. Ordinary visitors seldom have leisure to extend their excursion beyond the Rochers et Gorges de Franchard, about 3 M. from the town, the route to which they may, by attending to the following directions, find without a guide. From the Barriere de Paris, at the N.W. extremity of the town, the broad path, which diverges to the left from the high road to Paris, must be taken; after 35 min. a cross-way (carre- four) is reached, where the road to the left must be followed, from which after 5 min. a footpath diverges to the r., leading through the forest in 5 min. more to the Restaurant de Franchard, one of the most frequented spots in the environs of Fontainebleau. The celebrated Rochers et Gorges de Franchard, a rocky basin overgrown with trees and bushes, about 3 M. in circuit, commence about 5 minutes walk to the W., at the Rochers des Ermites and the ^Roche qui pleure\ a short distance beyond the ruins of an ancient monastery (now forester's dwelling). The water which trickles from this 'weeping rock' is popularly believed to be beneficial in cases of diseases of the eye ; its appearance, how- ever, is not inviting. 'Ueau que filtre le rocher qui est proche votre cellule nest ni belle a voir ni bonne a boire' wrote the Abbot of Ste. Genevieve upwards of 800 years ago to the founder of the monastery above alluded to. The accuracy of this opinion may be tested on the spot. Above the Roche qui pleure a good survey of the entire gorge is obtained: in the distance to the N. the Gorges d'Apremont, another well known rocky wilderness, are visible. These ravines all partake of the same character, being strewn with huge blocks of l gres de Fontainebleau , a species of hard white sandstone of which a considerable number of the paving-stones of Paris are formed. The visitor may now return to the town by the same route. An excursion to the Rochers and Gorges d 'Apremont and the neighbouring Bas-Breau is not less interesting than the above. This locality affords an admirable field for artists, a whole colony of whom has established itself at the village of Barbison in the vicinity. (The village of Marlotte, on the opposite margin of the forest, contains a similar community). Many of the magnificent forest-trees of the Bas-Breau are designated by various names, such as Henri IV., Sully, Reine Blanche, etc. Between the Rochers d'Apremont and the Monts Girard, another chain of hills, the Dormoir extends, a plain partly 2J6 38. FONTAINEBLEAU. wooded and partly covered with rocks and heath, one fo the most beautiful portions of the forest, and formerly a favourite rendezvous of the Imperial chasse. In the upper part of the Gorges d'Apremont is situated the Caverne des Brigands, said once to have been the haunt of bandits. The only inhabitant of this locality at the present day is an individual who lives in a rustic hut and sup- ports himself by the sale of beverages, carved walking-sticks, living reptiles, etc. Among the innumerable other delightful rambles which the forest affords may be mentioned the Belle Croix, with its numerous miniature lakes (mares), the largest of which is the Mare a Piat; the Hauteur de la Solle, near which, in the Vallee de la Solle, races formerly took place in summer ; and above all the Gros Fouteau, with its magnificent forest-trees, at no great distance from the town, the Rendez-vous des Artistes in the vicinity, and the Gorge aux Loups and Longs Rochers near the village of Martotte. The most beautiful view in the neighbourhood of Fontaine- bleau is afforded by the *Fort de l'Empereur, which may be attained with ease in 25 min. from the railway station. The road to the left by the unpretending restaurants of the station must be ascended; after 10 min., where the wood commences, it should be entered to the left, and the broad, sandy path followed, leading to the eminence on which the 'Fort' is situated. This is a bel- vedere, constructed in the form of a small fortification, which commands a most strikingly picturesque panorama, embracing a great portion of the forest, and to the N. and E. the chain of hills studded with numerous villages, at the base of which the Seine flows. The town of Melun is a conspicuous object; in favourable weather Paris itself may be distinguished in the distance. NORTHERN FRANCE. A. ROUTES FROM LONDON TO PARIS. 39. By Folkestone, Boulogne, and Amiens. By Tidal Express Trains (see advertisements in the 1 Times' or 'Bradshaw -1 , from Charing Cross or London Bridge in 10 — 12 hrs. , average sea-passage 2 hrs. \ fares 2 I. 11 s. 8 d. and 1 I. 18 s., return tickets valid for one month 4 I. 7 s. and 3 I. 7 5. — Passengers with single tickets may break their journey at the principal stations and spend 7 days on the route. Omnibus from the harbour at Boulogne to the railway station gratis. Lug- gage registered from London or Folkestone to Paris is not examined before arrival at Paris (station, Place Roubaix). By Steamboat from London to Boulogne daily (see advertise- ment in the 'Times' 1 or in 'Bradshaw') and thence to Paris by railways to- tal 14 — 17 hrs. excl. of detention at Boulogne, where the trains do not always correspond with the steamers } river-passage about 6 hrs., sea-pas- sage 3 hrs. 5 fares 25 s. and 18 s. \ tickets available for 10 days. This is the cheapest, and in favourable weather the pleasantest route. Boulogne-SUr-Mer. (Hotels : ::: des Bains; * d 1 A n g 1 e t e r r e j d u Nord, all in the Rue Napoleon, and in the vicinity of the harbour. Op- posite the steamboat-wharf: London and Folkestone Hotel. Near the baths : Hotel de la Marine and Grand Hotel du Pavilion, commanding a fine view. — Restaurants: Vermond and Cafe" de France et d^Angleterre in the Rue Napoleon-, Cafe Veyez, Grand'Rue 1. — Voitures de place: per drive l 1 ^ fr., per hour 2 fr. for the first, 1 fr. 75 c. for the following. — Diligence to Calais 3 times daily in 3^2 hrs. — English Church Service in the Haute-Ville, the Basse-Ville, the Rue Royale, and the Rue de la Lampe. — Railway to Calais in 1 — l 1 ^ hr.). Boulogne, termed 'sur mer' to distinguish it from Boulogne- sur-Seine near Paris, the Bononia (?) or Gesoriacum of the Ro- mans, is an important sea-port town, situated on the Liane, with a population of 36,265, of whom upwards of 2000 are English. The town may be said to combine a certain amount of English comfort with French taste. It possesses 120 educational establish- ments, many of which enjoy a high reputation. The Basse-Ville is situated on a slight eminence which rises gradually from the river. A broad street (Rue de la Lampe, Rue St. Nicolas, Grand J Rue) leads from the Pont de I'Ecluse to the Haute-Ville. This line of streets is intersected by another (Rue Napoleon, Rue Royale), from N.W. to S.E., the most ani- mated portion of the town, where the principal shops are situated. The *Museum (open to the public on Sundays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, from 10 to 4 o'clock; at other times, fee 1 fr.), 218 Route 39. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. From London situated in the Grand'Rue, merits a visit. 1st Room: curiosities from China, India, and the South Sea Islands ; French coins and medals , among the latter one bearing an inscription which will provoke the smile of the English traveller: 'Descente en Angle- terre, frappe a Londres% in reality 'frappe" at Paris in 1804 for the purpose of commemorating Napoleon's projected invasion of England. — 2nd Room: Roman antiquities, ancient weapons and armour, carving, coins, etc. — 3rd Room: Celtic, Greek, and Egyptian antiquities , amongst the latter a mummy , pronounced by the celebrated archaeologist Champollion to be a finer specimen than any of those contained in the Louvre. — A large hall contains casts from well known sculptures. — The upper story contains pictures, stuffed quadrupeds, etc. — On the basement story, to the left, models of naval and architectural objects, of the Colonne Napoleon and the Tower of Caligula. — The Library contains 30,000 vols., among which are some good specimens of early printing. At the extremity of the Grand'Rue, to the left, is the Es- planade, adorned with a colossal bust of Henry II. of France, by David, commemorating the restoration of the town to the French by the English (1550). The Haute- Ville , enclosed by lofty walls , is entered by the Porte des Dunes, within which, to the left, the Hotel de Ville is situated, occupying the site of an ancient castle, where in 1065 the crusader Godfrey de Bouillon , third son of the Count de Boulogne, was born. The lower portion of the tower dates from the 11th cent., the upper portion from the year 1544. The Cathedral, situated in the vicinity, a modern and still unfinished building in the Italian style, occupies the site of a Gothic church demolished in 1793. The perforated vaulting of the cupola over the transept is peculiar. The principal point of attraction in this edifice is the lofty dome , conspicuous from a great distance, and affording a most extensive * prospect, com- prising the downs, the elevated plain which the road to Calais traverses , in the foreground the Colonne Napoleon , and in the distance, in favourable weather , the white cliffs of the English coast. The entrance to the staircase is by a door to the right in the interior of the church (admission gratuitous). The Crypt, discovered in 1840 during the construction of the church, is believed to date from the 8th or 9th cent. Entrance (1 fr.) near the staircase to the dome. The E. angle of the Haute- Ville is formed by the Chateau, in which Louis Napoleon was confined after the attempted in- surrection of 1840. It is now converted into barracks and an artillery depot. No. 3, Rue du Chateau, in the vicinity, is the house in which Lesage, the author of Gil Bias, died (1747). The Harbour, especially the W. portion near the Douane to Paris. BOU LO(tNE-SUK-ME R . 39, Route. 219 and the steamboat-wharf, in the vicinity of some of the principal hotels, presents a very busy scene. At the extremity of the harbour is situated the Etablisse- ment de Bains, a spacious building, open from May to November, but far inferior to that of Dieppe. Towards evening the Pier (Jetee), which extends upwards of 500 yds. from the shore, forms a favourite promenade. The op- posite (W.) pier is 180 yds. longer. Both are provided with light-houses. The spacious, semi -circular Basin on the left bank of the Liane was constructed by order of Napoleon I. to accommodate the flotilla which was to convey his troops to England (see below). The Fish-Market is held at an early hour in the morning on the quay, near the Hotel des Bains. The fishermen and their families occupy a separate quarter of the town on the W. side, and constitute one tenth of the entire population. They are re- markable for their adherence to the picturesque costume of their ancestors, and in their character and usages differ materially from the other inhabitants of the town. The women (Matelottes), as is usually the case in communities of this description , exercise unlimited sway on shore, whilst the sea is the undisputed domain of their husbands. Jesus Flagelle, a small chapel l^ M. to the N. of the town, a few hundred paces to the left of the Colonne Napoleon, is a place of pious resort, much frequented by the fishing population, as the greater number of the votive tablets indicate. Boulogne possesses upwards of 250 fishing boats, which during the herring fishery extend their voyages as far as the Scottish coast, and even to Iceland, and in favourable seasons realise a sum of 60,000 I In 1804 Napoleon assembled an army of 172,000 infantry and 9000 cavalry on the table-land to the N. of Boulogne, under the command of Soult, Ney, Davoust, and Victor, and in the harbour a flotilla consisting of 2413 craft of various dimensions, for the purpose of invading England and establishing a republic there. The troops were admirably drilled, and only awaited the arrival of the fleets from Antwerp, Brest, Cadiz, and the harb-ours of the Mediterranean, which had been formed several years previously with this express object. Their union was prevented by the English fleet under Sir Robert Colder ; and the victory of Nelson at Trafalgar (Oct. 22nd, 1805) completed the triumph of England and the discomfiture of the entire undertaking. The Colonne Napoleon, a pillar of marble of the Doric order, 160 ft. in height, situated l 1 / 2 M. from Boulogne on the road to Calais, was founded in 1804, the first stone being laid by Marshal Soult in the presence of the whole army. It was not, however, completed until 184/1. The summit is occupied by a statue of 220 Route 39. ABBEVILLE. From London the emperor, one of Bosws finest works. The pedestal is adorned with reliefs and emblems of war. The view from the summit (custodian's fee l fe fr.) is similar to that commanded by the dome of the cathedral. Model in the museum (p. 218). A Block of Marble , situated about % M. nearer the coast, commemorates the distribution of the decorations of the Legion of Honour to the army in 1804. It was removed after the Resto- ration, but subsequently replaced. In the vicinity is the pilgrim- age chapel of Jesus Flagelle, mentioned above. Nearer the town, on the chalk cliffs (falaises) above the bathing establishment , are seen the scanty remnants of a Roman tower (La Tour d'Ordre, perhaps from turris ardens) , conjectured to have been a light-house, erected in the year 40, by Caligula who like Napoleon made an unsuccessful attempt to invade Eng- land from this point. When this district was conquered by the English in 1544, the tower was still standing, and at a distance of 200 yds. from the cliffs. A century later it fell, and since that period the sea has made such encroachments that the frag- ments of the tower are now close to the brink. Model in the museum (p. 218). The railway-station at Boulogne is on the left bank of the Liane, close to the bridge. On quitting the station the train traverses the valley of the Liane. The country soon becomes flat and uninteresting. Near the station of Pont-de-Brique is situated a chateau in which Napoleon frequently resided, and whence several of his imperial decrees emanated. The following station is Neufchdtel. The train now traverses sandy downs, and crosses the Cauche by a long bridge. Near the station of Etaples two lofty light- houses are conspicuous objects. Montr euil-Verton is one of the places mentioned in Sterne's 'Sentimental Journey'. Near Noyelle, situated in the midst of a dreary expanse of sand, the Somme was crossed by Edward III. before the battle of Cressy. The train now quits the sea-coast and proceeds inland , generally following the course of the Somme. Abbeville '(Hotel de V Europe; Tete de Bceuf) is a manufac- turing town of ancient origin, with a population of 20,058. The principal object of interest is the unfinished Church of St. Wolfram, founded by Cardinal d'Amboise , the minister and favourite of Louis XII., at the commencement of the 16th cent. The facade with its three portals, a richly decorated specimen of florid Go- thic, merits examination. The district now becomes more picturesque, as the fertile valley of the Somme is ascended. After passing several stations of minor importance, the train traverses three short tunnels and stops at the station of to Paris. AMIENS. 39. Route. 221. Amiens (Hotel de France; Hotel deParis; Hotel du Rhin, situated in a small garden near the station •, Hotel d e 1 1 1I n i v e r s Cafe Diollot), the ancient capital of Picardy, now that of the Department of the Somme, with a population of 58,780 , one of the most considerable manufacturing towns in France. In 1802 the peace between France and England was here concluded . On Nov. 27th , 1870 , the French were defeated near Amiens by the Prussians, who took possession of the town on the follow- ing day. The *Cathedral, one of the finest Gothic structures in Europe, was erected in 1220 — 1288 by the architects Robert de Luzarehe, Thomas de Cormont, and his son Renault. The lofty tower over the transept, 370 ft. in height, was erected in 1529, to replace a tower which had been destroyed by lightning two years pre- viously. |The uncompleted towers of the W. facade belong to the 13th (the lower) and the 15th centuries. The three lofty Portals, with their receding arches, are richly decorated with re- liefs and statues. The reliefs of the central portal represent the Last Judgment , the statues the 12 Apostles. 'Le beau dieu d J Amiens' is an admirable figure of the Saviour which separates the doors of this portal. Above the portal on the right is repre- sented the entombment of the Virgin, above that on the left the history of St. Firmin, the apostle of Picardy. The church possesses a nave and transept with two aisles. The choir with its four aisles is flanked by a series of 7 lateral chapels. The chapels in the other aisles were added at a period subsequent to that of the original edifice. The magnificent oriel windows , each upwards of 100 ft. in circumference , are filled with stained glass. A visit to the triforium , which commands a good survey of the church, may be conveniently combined with a walk round the external gallery and the ascent of the tower. (The sacristan lives to the left of the W. facade; fee 1 fr.) The S. transept contains a high relief of the 16th cent. , painted and gilded , representing in four compartments the history of St. James the Great. The N. transept contains similar reliefs, representing the expulsion of the money-changers from the Temple. A species of stone vessel , re- sembling a sarcophagus, and probably dating from the 11th' cent. , is be- lieved to have been employed in ancient times as a font. The N. wall of the choir is adorned with reliefs representing the his- tory of John the Baptist; those on the S. side illustrate the life of St. Fir- min, sculptured in 1480 and 1530. Behind the high-altar is a monument to Canon Lucas, executed at the commencement of the last century by Blasset. Between the statues of the canon and the Virgin is a much admired weeping angel {'•enfant pleureur* ). The stalls of the choir are fine specimens of carving of the commence- ment of the 16th cent., and deserve examination. At the entrance to the choir are placed statues of St. Vincent de Paul and St. Carlo Borromeo. With the excep ion of the cathedral, Amiens possesses little to arrest the traveller. A colossal statue of Dufresne Ducange (d. 1688), an eminent linguist and native of Amiens, is passed on the way from the station to the town. 222 Route 40. CALAIS From London At Lonyueau (Rail, restaurant), the first station after Amiens, the lines from Boulogne and Calais unite. Near Boves are seen the ruins of an ancient castle in which Henry IV. frequently resided with the beautiful Gabrielle d'Estrees. A view is here obtained of the picturesque valley of the Noye. Clermont, to the right , the next station of importance, is situated on a grassy eminence, crowned with an ancient chateau, now employed as a prison. The district here becomes well-peopled and extremely picturesque. Liancourt. To the left of the line a handsome church of the 16th cent. By the desire of Henry IV. Gabrielle d'Estrees was married to a certain Seigneur de Liancourt, a man of deformed figure and deficient intellect, on condition that he should never see her again after the ceremony. As the train approaches Creil (*Refreshment-room) it skirts the bank of the Oise. Extensive porcelain manufactory on an island in the river. Beauvais, 1 hr. by railway to the N. W. of Creil, possesses a mag- nificent, though uncompleted, Gothic cathedral, remarkable for its noble and lofty proportions. The direct line to Paris is via ChantiLly and St. Denis. Montmartre rises to the right as the city is approached. The magnificent Station du Nord, erected in 1863, is adorned exter- nally with a number of statues emblematical of the principal cities of Europe. — Conveyances see p. 1. 40. By Dover, Calais, and Amiens. By Express Trains, starting from the London Bridge, Charii^ Cross, Victoria, and Blackfriars stations, in lO 1 ^ — ll 1 ^ hrs. ; sea passage generally under 2 hrs. ; fares 2 I. 17 s. 10 d. and 2 I. 2 s. 6 d. ; tickets available for 7 days, with option of halting at Dover, Calais, and Amiens; return-tickets, valid for one month, 4 I. 7 s. and 3 I. 7 s. Luggage should be registered, in order that the examination at Calais may be avoided. By Steamer from London to Calais twice a week (comp. ad- vertisement in the 'Times 1 or in 'Bradshaw'), and thence to Paris by rail- ways total 15 — 20 hrs., excl. of detention at Calais, where the trains sel- dom correspond with the steamboat; river-passage about 6 hrs.; sea-pas- sage 4^2 — 5 hrs.; fares 31 s. 3 d. and 33 s. 3 d., tickets available for 10 days. Calais (Hotels: Station Hotel, conveniently situated at the termi- nus; de France. — Sea-Bathing : to the N. of the Bassin de Retenue. — Military Music in the Grande Place on Sundays and Thursdays from 2 to 4 o'clock. — Railway to Boulogne in 1 — l-ij 4 hr. from the Grande Place, N. side. . — English Churches: in Calais and in the Basse Ville) is an important military station, and is surrounded by strong fortifications (24,018 inhab.). Its form is an oblong square, the N. side of which is bounded by the Bassin a Ftot, the Port de Uechouage, and the Bassin du Paradis. Courgain , a suburb contiguous to the latter, is inhabited exclusively by sailors and fishermen. The Quai de Maree, which extends into the sea for a consider- able distance, forms an agreeable promenade. to Paris. ARRAS. W. Route. 223 In front of the Hotel de Ville, in the Grande Place, stand two small obelisks, adorned with busts of the Due de Guise and Car- dinal Richelieu. The former retook the town from the English in 1558, after it had been held by them for two centuries; the latter was the founder of the citadel and arsenal. When the military band plays (see above), the Grande Place is a favourite resort of the townspeople. — The Church , in the early Gothic style, was erected whilst the town was in the possession of the English. Calais, together with the Basse-Ville, contains a greater num- ber of English residents than Boulogne ; most of them, however, are lace-manufacturers and persons in humble life. Quitting Calais, t'se train skirts a portion of the fortifications, follows the bank of the Aa, and crosses the Canal d J Ardres . The district traversed is flat and marshy , and being below the high tide level, is protected by embankments. Near the station of Ardres, to the right of the line, the cele- brated meeting of Henry VIII. and Francis I. on the 'Field of the Cloth of Gold' took place in 1520. St. Omer (Ancienne Poste; Hotel de France; Hotel d' Angleterre), a fortified town with a population of 25,706, is situated on the Aa, in a marshy, uninteresting district. The Cathedral is a fine edifice in the transition style. The Abbey of St. Bertin, of which a few scanty fragments only remain, once afforded an asylum to Thomas a Becket , whilst an exile in France. St. Omer also contains a Seminary for English and Irish Roman Catholics , the attendance at which is very small. English Church in the Rue du Bon Pasteur ; number of English residents about 450. Hazebrouck (Trois Chevaux ; St. George) is the next station of importance, being the junction of the lines from Calais, Dunkirk, and Lille. The direct line to Paris is by Arras ( Griffon ; St. Paul ; Hotel de V Europe; Hotel du Commerce) , a fortified town of considerable importance, with a population of 25,905, situated on the Scarpe. It is the seat of the bishop, and contains three important schools for officers of the engineers. The Grande Place and the Place de V Hotel de Ville present an interesting aspect, many of the houses dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. Their mediaeval exterior , by a decree of the town-council , may not be altered. — Robespierre was born here. — When in 1640 the French captured the town, then occupied by a Spanish garrison, they found the following inscription over one of the gates : l Quand les Francais prendront Arras, Les souris mangeront les chats'. Instead of removing this couplet they contented themselves with erasing the first letter of the fourth word , thus exactly reversing the meaning. 224 Route 41. DIEPPE. From London After passing several stations of no great importance, the train stops at Longueau (Rail, restaurant), where passengers for Amiens (10 min. by rail) change trains. From Longueau to Paris by Creil (R. 39) see p. 222. 41. By Newhaven, Dieppe, and Rouen. By Express Tidal Train (during the season) from London Bridge, Victoria, and Kensington stations in 12 — 15 hrs. (see advertisements in the 'Times' 1 or 'Bradshaw" 1 ) ; single tickets, available for 7 days, 30 5. and 22 s., return-tickets, available for one month, 50 s. and 26 s. ; sea-passage about G hrs. Luggage should he registered. This route is one of the least ex- pensive, and in favourable weather is most agreeable, but it is not recom- mended in winter. Dieppe. (Hotels: Royal, Bristol, des Bains, all facing the sohre*, Victoria and de Londres opposite the harbour-, Chariot d'Or, *du Commerce, and Armes de France, more moderate. — Restaurants: Lafosse, Grand 1 Rue 90, and adjoining the bath establish- ment •, Restaurant de la Place d" Armes, Grand -1 Rue 56 \ Cafe" Suisse on the quay. — Omnibus to the station 40 c. , luggage 20 c. — English Church Service every Sunday). Dieppe (20,187 inhab.) is situated in a valley formed by two ranges of lofty white chalk-cliff's , at the mouth of the Arques, which forms a harbour capable of containing v ssels of consider- able size. As a sea-port and commercial town , the vicinity of Havre has deprived it of its former importance. The trade of Dieppe is now principally confined to its traffic in fish. As a watering-place, however, it is in a flourishing condition, and is annually visited by a large number of English, as well as French families. The principal attraction for visitors is the *Etablissement de Bains, the paradise of loungers during the bathing season, and replete with every convenience. In front of it are placed about 200 small tents , which serve as dressing-rooms , whence the bathers descend into the water , accompanied by a guide-baigneur, if necessary. In favourable weather the scene is very amusing, and novel withal to the English visitor. Soon after 2 o'clock the band begins to play , and towards 3 the promenades in front of the bath establishment and along the beach are crowded. The gardens in the rear of the establishment afford sheltered walks, and contain gymnastic apparatus and a riding-course. At the entrance, bathing-tickets may be purchased. On the way from the bathing-place to the town is situated the Bazaar, occupying a circular space, in the centre of which is a mast with a red flag , hoisted when the tide is favourable for bathing. The beautiful carved ivory ornaments manufactured at Dieppe may be purchased here. In the immediate vicinity of the bazaar rises the handsome and extensive Castle, with its massive walls, towers, and bastions, erected in 1433 as a defence against the English. In 1694, how- ever . it was unable to prevent the wanton cannonade of the to Paris. DIEPPE. 41. Route. 225 English fleet, then returning from an unsuccessful attack on Brest j an unequal contest which resulted in the total destruction of the town. The view from the summit , and especially from the lofty bridge, is very extensive, but beyond this the castle possesses nothing to attract visitors. The church of St. Jacques (the patron saint of fishermen), in the Place Nationale , dates from the 14th and loth centuries. The interior is, however, sadly disfigured. Near the church is the Statue of Duquesne, a celebrated admiral and native of Dieppe (d. 1687), who conquered the redoutable De Ruyter off the Sicilian coast in 1676. The Dutch hero soon after died of his wounds at Syracuse. Duquesne, who was a Calvinist , was interred in the church of Aubonne on the Lake of Geneva. On market-days ( Wednesdays and Saturdays) an opportunity is afforded to the stranger of observing some of the singular head- dresses of the Norman country-women. The Jetee de POuest , situated at the N.W. extremity of the town , forms an agreeable evening promenade , and with the oppo- site Jetee de VEst constitutes the entrance to the harbour. Towards the S.E. the harbour terminates in the Bassin de Retenue, flanked by the Cours Bourbon., an avenue 3 / 4 M. in length, affording a retired and sheltered walk. This basin contains an extensive Oyster Park, formerly one of the principal sources from which Paris derived its supplies. The oysters are first brought from the inexhaustible beds of Cancale and Granville to St. Vaast near Cherbourg, whence they are after- wards removed to Dieppe. Here they are 'travaille'es', or dieted, so as materially to improve their flavour and render them fit for exportation. It has been observed that the oyster, when in a na- tural state, frequently opens its shell to eject the sea-water from which it derives its nourishment and to take in a fresh supply. In the 'park' they open their shells less frequently, and after a treatment of a month it is found that they remain closed for ten or twelve days together, an interval which admits of their being trans- ported in a perfectly fresh state to all parts of the continent. Since the completion of the railway from Paris to Cherbourg, the oyster- park of Dieppe has lost much of its importance, and the metropolis now derives its chief supplies from a more convenient source. Contiguous to the oyster-park is a restaurant of humble pre- tensions, where the delicious bivalve (75 c. per dozen), fresh from its native element, may be enjoyed in the highest perfection. Le Pollet,'-a suburb of Dieppe inhabited exclusively by sailors and fishermen, adjoins the Bassin de Retenue on the N. side. The population differs externally but little from that of Dieppe. It is, however , alleged that they are the descendants of an ancient Venetian colony, and it is certain that to this day they possess a primitive simplicity of character unknown among their neigh- B^edekek. Paris. 3rd Edition. 15 226 Route 41. DIEPPE. From London bours. On the coast, l'^Al. to the N.E. of this point, is situated the so-called Camp de Cesar, more probably of Gallic origin. Near it is another Bathing-place , with a restaurant , affording greater privacy than the establishment at Dieppe. By far the most interesting point in the environs of Dieppe is the ruined castle of Arques, situated at the confluence of the Bethune and Arques, about 4 M. to the S.E. of the town. It is memorable in history as the scene of the victory gained by Henri IV., with his army of 4000 men, over 30,000 men of the League under the Due de Mayenne , Sept. 21st, 1589. The issue of the con- test , as Sully records in his memoirs , was mainly due to the execution done by four cannons which were fired from the castle walls. The spot where the fiercest struggle took place is denoted by an obelisk. The best route from Dieppe to Arques is by St. Pierre , di- verging to the left from the Rouen road immediately outside the town. Those who prefer to drive may proceed by carriage (in 1^2 nr 0 as f ar as the auberge of Arques, whence the castle must be visited on foot. The view from the summit repays the ascent, and comprises the valleys of the Arques, the Bethune, and the Eaulne. The excursion may also be made by water (ascent IV4, re- turn 3 / 4 hr.). Boatmen may be engaged at the Bassin de Re- tenue , into which the Arques flows. From Dieppe -a diligence twice daily (office on the quay) to Abbeville (p. 220) in 8 hrs., coupe' 8 fr. ; to St. Valery three times daily. Passengers usually breakfast or dine at Ville d'Eu (*H6tel du Cygne), where these two routes diverge. Soon after quitting Dieppe the train passes through a tunnel, upwards of 1 M. in length , and enters the valley of the Scie, which it crosses 22 times. After passing several stations of mi- nor importance, the train reaches Malaunay , where the Rouen- Havre and Dieppe lines unite. From this point to Rouen the district traversed is cheerful and picturesque, abounding in cot- ton and other factories. Rouen. (Hotels: d 'Alb ion and d'Angleterre, both on the quay, R. 2»|2 — 5 fr., B. i% fr., D. 3 fr. ; Hotel de France, Rue des Carmes 97—99, b. p| 2 , 3). 4, L. and A. 1, R. 3 fr. ; Grand Pont, less expensive; Hotel Fromentin, Rue de rimperatrice •, Hotel du Commerce, Rue du Bee; de Normandie, Rue du Bee 13; du Grand .Vat el , Rue des Carmes 70. — Restaurants: *Heurtevent and Jacquinot, both in the Petite Provence on the quay. — Cafe's: Hugnot, on the quay, near the Exchange; Cafe de la Place de Notre Dame, near the Cathe- dral, etc. — Omnibus: from the station to the town 40 c, luggage 20 c. ; several different lines traverse the city. — Voitures: 1 fr. 25 c. per drive, luggage *\ 2 fr. ; per hour lijjs fr. — The ' Confitures'' for which Rouen is cele- brated, may be purchased of Celestin Magnt^ Rue des Carmes. — English Church Service in the chapel at Sotteville at 11 a. m., and in the French to Paris. ROUEN. 41. Route. 227 Protestant Church, Place St. Eloi. — Steamboat to Havre daily in 8 hrs., a pleasant but somewhat tedious route \ hours vary with the tide). Rouen, formerly the capital of ancient Normandy, now that of the Department of the Seine Inferieure, with a population of 102,649, exclusive of the suburbs, is the richest city* in France in mediaeval architecture. The ancient houses (Maisons Nor- mandes) with their quaint wooden facades are, however, unfortu- nately rapidly disappearing, and the picturesque aspect of the city has been considerably marred by modern improvements. It is, moreover, of great importance on account of its cotton fac- tories , and has not inaptly been termed the Manchester of France. Rouen is likewise one of the principal depots of the wines of Bordeaux , which are conveyed hither by small sea ves- sels on the Seine. As in ancient times , this city and its envi- rons are still renowned for their superior breed of horses , as well as for the robust physique of the inhabitants, who furnish the French army with some of its finest troops. The city is bounded on the S. by the Seine, which is here upwards of 300 yds. in breadth, and separates Rouen from the suburb of St. Sever (20,000 inhab.). By the windings of the river, Havre is about 100 M. distant. (Steamboats descend in 8 hrs. ; see above.) The other sides of the city are bounded by the boulevarts, which resemble those of Paris, though they are of course less ani- mated. The ancient ramparts and fortifications successfully resi- sted the attacks of Henry V. of England (1415) and Henri IV. of France (1591). The suburbs outside the boulevarts are occupied principally by the manufacturing portion of the community. The following walk will be found to comprise the most interesting points of the city, arranged in a convenient order, commencing with the river on the S. side. The Seine is here crossed by two bridges which unite Rouen with St. Sever. The Pont d' Orleans, the upper of these bridges, constructed of stone (1829), crosses from St. Sever to the lower extremity of the lie Lacroix , where the statue of Corneille (by David d' Angers) , a native of Rouen (d. 1684), is situated, and thence to Rouen. The street opposite to the bridge , recently constructed by the demolition of a labyrinth of old houses , leads to the Place St. Ouen. Farther down the river is situated the Grand Pont or Pont Suspendu (toll 1 c, carriage 15 c), a suspension bridge (1836), which affords an admirable survey of the river with its forest of masts , the streets flanking the quays , behind which rises the cathedral, and the numerous manufactories of St. Sever. The 'Petite Provence', an avenue of trees opposite to the suspension bridge, is adorned with a statue of the eminent com- poser Boieldieu (d. 1834) , who was a native of Rouen. Farther 1f>* 228 Route 41. ROUEN. From London W. is the Bourse, which a small public garden adjoins, and beyond it the Quai du Havre, the Douane, and Post-office. This is one of the pleasantest and most animated portions of the town. From the suspension-bridge a line of streets (Rue Grandpont, Rue des Qirmes , Rue Beauvoisine) leads to the Boulevart Beau- voisine, intersecting the entire city from S. to N. The best shops are situated here. The new and important Rue de V Imperatrice, to make room for which many of the ancient and narrow lanes have been demolished , extends from the quay below the sus- pension-bridge , passing the church of St. Vincent , the Marche Neuf with the adjacent Palais de Justice, the Jardin de Solferino, and the Tour du Donjon or de Jeanne d' Arc, to the Boulevarts near the railway-station. At the extremity of the Rue Grandpont the traveller arrives at the Cathedral ; thence to the right by the Rue des Bonnetiers to the church of St. Maclou, and by the Rue Imperiale to St. Ouen, which may be regarded as the architectural gem of Rouen. The Hotel de Ville is contiguous to St. Ouen, after a glance at which the traveller should visit the Musee des Antiquites in the Rue Beauvoisine , near the boulevarts. Thence to the Palais de Justice , Tour de la Grosse Horloge, Place de la Pucelle, Hotel du Bourgtheroulde, and back to the quay. The entire walk may be accomplished in the course of one morning; the evening may be devoted to the ascent of Mont Ste. Catherine or Bon Secours (p. 232). The ^Cathedral [Notre Dame, Plan 1), the principal portions of which date from 1207 — 80, is one of the grandest Gothic edi- fices in Normandy. The central portal of the W. facade, towards the Place du Parvis Notre Dame , was erected by Cardinal d'Am- boise , the favourite minister of Louis XII., at the commencement of the 16th cent. , and profusely decorated in the florid style. The sculptures above the entrance represent the genealogy of Christ; to the left the beheading of John the Baptist, to the right the Virgin and saints. The two towers of the facade are of unequal height. The Tour de Beurre , the loftier and more beautiful , derives its ap- pellation from having been erected with the money paid for in- dulgences to eat butter during Lent. It once contained one of the largest bells in the world, melted down during the first re- volution. A few fragments were sent to the Mint at Paris, where they were employed in striking medals with the inscription : ' Monument de Vanite , detruit pour Vutilite , Van II de l'egalite\ The central spire, over the transept, was burned down in 1822, having been ignited by lightning , and is replaced by a most un- sightly tower of cast iron , 465 ft. in height , which sadly mars the exterior of the church. A spiral staircase ascends to the summit. The portals by which the transept is entered, dating from the to Paris. ROUEN. 41. Route. 229 15th cent., are more chaste in style than those above mentioned The Portail des Lib r aires , to the N., so termed from the hook- seller's stalls which formerly occupied the court in front of it, is the more beautiful and deserves particular attention. The sculptures represent the Last Judgment. The Portail de la Ca- lendre , by which the church is entered on the S., is adorned with sculptures from the history of Joseph. The hanging figure is popularly believed to be that of a usurer , put to death in this manner for having employed false weights and measures , and whose property was confiscated and expended in the construction of this portal. The figure is, however, doubtless intended to re- present Pharaoh's baker. The interior of the* church (469 ft. in length and 96 ft. in height) is in the early pointed style , and possesses three fine oriel windows in the nave and transepts. A tier of small arches , placed between the columns which separate the nave from the aisles , is intended to give stability to the structure, but somewhat detracts from the grandeur of the effect. The last chapel on the S. side of the nave contains the tomb of Rollo (d. 927), first Duke of Normandy, the corresponding chapel on the N. side that of his son William, '•Longue Epte 1 (d. 943) ^ the figures, however, are probably not earlier than the 13th cent. A modern screen separates the choir from the nave. The carving of the stalls dates from 1467, the stained glass from the 13th cent. The Chapelle du Christ, contiguous to the high altar, contains an an- cient mutilated figure in limestone, 7 ft. in height, of Richard Coeur de Lion (d. 1199), discovered in 1838. His heart, which was interred in the choir, was found at the same time, and is now preserved in the museum. Its original resting-place in the choir is indicated by a small marble tablet with a Latin inscription. To the right in the Chapelle de la Vierge is the magnificent '■'Monument of Cardinal t/eorge d'Amboise and his nephew, who was likewise a cardi- nal. It was executed in 1525 in black and white marble ; under a richly decorated canopy are the figures of the cardinals in a kneeling posture ; in niches are placed figures of the 12 Apostles, and beneath are the cardinal virtues. To the left is the handsome 'Monument of the Due de Bre'ze' (d. 1530), grand seneschal of Normandy , erected by his wife, the celebrated Diana of Poitiers (d. 1566), mistress of Henry II. Above is an equestrian statue of the duke; beneath, on a sarcophagus of black marble, he is represented as an emaciated corpse. At his head kneels his disconsolate widow in an attitude of prayer, at his feet stand the Virgin and Child. The inscription : "indivulsa tibi quondam, et fdissima conjux, Ut fuit in thalamo, sic erit in tumulo'''' contains a double deviation from the truth, for the 'most faithful wife" was interred in the chateau of Anet, where she died. The monument is attri- buted to the celebrated Huguenot sculptor Jean Goujon (p. 54). The altar- piece , representing the Adoration of the shepherds , is by Ph. de Cham- paign e. *St. Maclou (Plan 2), 'wn diminutif de St. Ouen\ as it has not inaptly been termed, is a fine specimen of the florid style of the 15th cent. The central tower over the transept is a graceful structure, although incomplete. The sculptures which adorn the three portals are admirably executed. The wooden doors are re- markable for their exquisitely carved reliefs from biblical subjects, ascribed to Jean Goujon. The beautiful spiral staircase near the W. entrance is also deserving of inspection. 230 Route 41. ROUEN. From London **St. Ouen (Abbaye de St. Ouen; PI. 3), one of the most ex- quisite Gothic edifices in the world, far surpasses the cathedral in extent and in chasteness of style. It was founded in 1318; the choir, chapels, and transept were completed 21 years later, and the nave and tower towards the close of the loth cent. The original plan having been followed throughout, the entire edifice exhibits a rare harmony of design. The tower over the transept, 288 ft. in height, is surmounted by an octagonal superstructure with flying buttresses and turrets at the angles, a remarkably ele- gant specimen of open-work. The whole is terminated by a crown of fleurs-de-lis, the so-called 'Couronne de la Normandie'. The summit commands a fine prospect. — The towers of the W. facade have recently been judiciously completed, although not in strict harmony with the rest of the edifice. The sacrilegious outrages committed by the Huguenots (1562) and the republicans (1793) have also been carefully repaired, and the church is now one of the few perfect Gothic structures in Europe. The S. ^Portail des Marmousets% so called from the figures of the animals with which it is adorned, merits the most minute inspection. The reliefs above the door represent the death and assumption of the Virgin. The proportions of the interior (474 ft. in length, 88 ft. in breadth and 117 ft. in height) are remarkable for their graceful elegance. The walls appear to be almost superseded by the nu- merous (120) windows, all of which are filled with stained glass. The unusually lofty triforium is exceedingly beautiful. In the nave and transepts are three fine oriel-windows, also filled with stained glass. Around the choir are situated eleven chapels, which the verger fr.) opens, and whence several fine views of the interior of the edifice are enjoyed. Alexander Berneval, the architect of this noble church, is in- terred in the Chapel of St. Agnes, the second on the N. side (to the left) in the choir. Tradition alleges that in a fit of jealousy he killed his apprentice who in the execution of the oriel-window of the N. transept had surpassed his master in skill. In the rear of the church and the adjoining Hotel de Ville a pleasant garden is situated, to which the public have access. The Chambre aux Clercs, a Norman tower of the 11th cent., is con- tiguous to the church on this side, and probably formed a portion of an earlier edifice which once occupied the same site. St. Ouen (d. 678), to whom the church is dedicated, was Archbishop of Rouen. The Hdtel de Ville (PI. 4), on the N. side of the church, was formerly within the precincts of the monastery of St. Ouen. The building is in the Italian style, with a row of Corinthian columns. The Picture Gallery (entrance to the r. at the end of to Paris. ROUEN. 41. Route. 231 the gallery on the second floor; open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays, to artists and strangers daily at the same hours ; on the staircase the recumbent statue of the painter Gue'ricault, who was born here and died in 1824) contains little to "interest the visitor. No. 301. The Virgin with saints and angels, in the great gallery, deserves mention as a fine picture of the old Ger- man school, ascribed to Memling. Adjoining the museum is the Library (open daily from 11 to 4 and from 6 to 9 o'clock, Sundays and Thursdays excepted), which contains upwards of 110,000 vols, and a collection of MSS., among which are several valuable miniatures. In front of the Town Hall rises the Eques- trian Statue of Napoleon I., by Vital-Dubray. The metal consists of cannons captured at Austerlitz. A relief at the back repre- sents Napoleon visiting the workmen in the suburb of St. Sever in 1802. The *Musee des Antiquites (PI. 5), situated in the cloisters of an ancient convent, in the Rue Beauvoisine, is an extremely interesting collection. Admission daily from 12 to 4; at other imes for a fee of 1 fr. It contains numerous interesting relics found in Xormandy. Of the Roman period : sarcophagi and a large, freely restored mosaic representing Orpheus. The collection of mediaeval curosities is especially valuable. Documents of Richard Coeur de Lion with his seals, model of St. Maclou^ a small glass box containing the relics of Richard's 'lion'' heart-, shrine of St. Sever in the form of a Gothic chapel , adorned with silver statuettes, dating from the 12th cent., formerly in the cathedral} five reliefs in marhle representing the Last Judgment 5 a number of coins. Casts of the reliefs in the Hotel du Bourgtheroulde (p. 232) 5 weapons \ documents with signa- tures of celebrated persons, among which is one bearing the sign (a cross) of William the Conqueror ; the door of Corneille's house, etc. Then a col- lection of porcelain-articles manufactured at Rouen, where t heart formerly flourished. The museum contains such a vast number of interesting ob- jects which cannot here be enumerated, that a catalogue is almost indis- pensable. The fifteen windows are filled with stained glass from different secularised monasteries. The Cabinet of Natural History , in an adjoining building, is also a creditable collection. The Tour du Donjon, or de Jeanne d'Arc, in the Rue de l'lmperatrice, is the last remnant of a citadel erected by Philip Augustus in 1205, where Joan of Arc was afterwards imprisoned. St. Godard (PI. 6), between the Rue de l'lmperatrice and the Rue Beauvoisine, contains two fine stained glass windows of the 16th cent. St. Patrice, situated to the W. of the Rue de l'lmperatrice, erected in 1535, merits a visit on* account of the rich stained glass it contains. The *Palais de Justice (PI. 7), in the late florid style, re- sembles the handsome council-halls of Belgian towns, although less lofty. The central portion of the edifice and the projecting pavilions form an entrance-eourt, enclosed by a railing. The left wing, the Salle des Procureurs, erected in 1493, is a spacious and lofty hall with an open roof, and once served as an exchange. 232 Route 41. ROU EN. From London The central part was erected under Louis XII., six years later, for the Cour de I'Echiquier of Normandy, the supreme tribunal in ancient times, subsequently under Francis 1. termed 'parliament 1 . The assizes are now held here. The residence of the former presi- dents of the parliament, situated in the rear of the Palais, has been converted into another court of justice. The portress (Y2 fr-J conducts visitors through the different apartments. In the vicinity rises the Tour de la Grosse Horloge or BefTroi (belfry), contiguous to, and deriving its name from the clock-gateway erected in 1527. Several of the houses in this* narrow, but extremely picturesque street (Grand' Rue) merit in- spection. Farther to the W., near the Theatre (PI. 9), is the Place de la Pucelle, where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in 1431. About 24 years later she was declared innocent of the crime of witchcraft by a papal bull, and the French, who it is well known had been her betrayers, being now masters of Rouen, erected a cross to Her memory on the spot where she suffered. The place is now occupied by a paltry figure over a fountain. The adjoining Hotel du Bourgtheroulde (PI. 10), which is here entered by a gateway, was erected by a M. de Bourgthe- roulde at the close of the 15th cent., in the style of the Palais de Justice. The court contains a number of reliefs in marble, one of which represents the interview of the rival monarchs on the 'Field of the Cloth of Gold'. The graceful hexagonal tower is decorated with sculptures from biblical subjects. Descending hence to the quay of the Havre steamboats, and traversing the entire length of the wharf towards theE., the traveller will reach *Mont Ste. Catherine (405 ft.), which rises at the extremity of the city, immediately beyond the Champ de Mars. The summit is occupied by a few fragments of the fortress, which Henry IV. captured from the troops of the League under Marshal Villars, and caused to be demolished. The ascent occupies Y2 nr - The view is extensive, and embraces the city with its numerous towers and chimneys, the course of the river, the railway, and the populous and busy environs. A still finer prospect may be enjoyed from the recently con- structed pilgrimage church of Notre Dame de Bon Secours, or *Bon Secours as it is usually termed, situated on the lofty bank of the river, 2 M. from Rouen. The view comprises the entire city, the course of the river for many miles above and below Rouen, and in the distance the rich and verdant pastures of Normandy. A pleasant excursion may be taken to La Bouille, 15 M. below Rouen, by the local steamboat starting at 6 am. and return- ing at 2 p. m. The right bank of the Seine is bounded by pre- cipitous chalk-hills, and studded with picturesque country residences to Paris. GAILLON. 41. Route. 233 and parks, whilst the left bank consists of rich meadows and pasturage. La Bouille (Hotel de la Renaissance) is a small but buys town, where several important high roads unite. The Chdteua de Robert le Viable, the scanty ruins of which occupy the sum- mit of a hill in the vicinity, affords a charming prospect of the wooded mountains, portions of the valley of the Seine with its white chalk-hills, and in the distance Rouen with the cathedral. * Passing by means of three tunnels under the Boulevarts St. Hilaire and Beauvoisine, and the Mont Ste. Catherine, the train crosses the Seine, affording a beautiful view of Rouen to the right. To the left, on the Cote, or hills which rise from the river, is situated the church of Bon Secours. At Sotteville, the first station, the English church is situated. Tourville is the station for Elbeuf, 6 M. distant, a cloth-manufacturing town of considerable importance. Near Oissel the Seine is again crossed, and is recrossed beyond Pont de VArche above the influx of the Eure. Between St. Pierre de Vauvray {Louviers in the vicinity is a town with extensive cloth-factories) and Villers the train penetrates the chalk hills by means of two tunnels. Near Les Andelys, 3 M. distant from the line, rise the ruins of the castle of Gaillard, erected by Richard Coeur de Lion to protect the Duchy of Normandy against the incursions of the French kings. It was afterwards employed as a state-prison. Here in 1314 the infamous Margaret of Burgundy, consort of Louis X., was strangled by order of her husband. The castle was demol- ished by Henri IV., at the same time with other castles of Norman barons who were disaffected to the French supremacy. The station of Gaillon is situated opposite to the village of Courcelles. The chateau of Gaillon, erected in 1500, was one of the finest in Normandy, and was the favourite residence of Francis I. The lofty facade has been transferred to the court of the Ecole des Beaux Arts in Paris (p. 163). The castle is now employed as a prison. The conspicuous tower of Vernon, once a strongly fortified town, was erected in 1123 by Henry I. of England. Here L* 1198 Philip Augustus of France sought refuge when conquered by Richard Coeur de Lion. The chateau of Bizy in the vicinity was once the property of Louis Philippe. The tunnel between Bonnieres and Rolleboise cuts off the wide circuit which the river here describes. Rosny possesses a chateau where Sully (d. 1641), the cele- brated minister of Henry IV., was born in 1559. It was sub- sequently the property of the Duchess of Berry, who resided in it from 1818 to 1830. 234 Route 41. POISSY. From London The picturesque town of Mantes is memorable in history as the place where William the Conqueror was so severely injured by a fall from his horse that he soon afterwards died at Rouen. The lofty towers of the Gothic church of Notre Dame and of St. Maclou are conspicuous objects in the town. The line con- tinues to skirt the banks of the Seine, and frequently commands fine views. Poissy, the next station of importance, was the birthplace of St. Louis, who frequently styled himself 'Louis de Poissy'. Here in 1561 a conference was assembled by order of the States General, with a view to adjust the differences between the Roman Catholic and Protestant parties. The former was represented by 6 cardi- nals, 36 bishops, and numerous doctors of theology, the latter by Theodore Beza, the friend of Calvin, Peter Yermigli of Florence, professor of theology at Strasbourg, and other reformers. Their deliberations, however, led to no result, owing to the intervention of the Sorbonne, the celebrated theological faculty of Paris, by whose influence and strong condemnation of the Calvinists the proceedings were terminated. — The cattle-market of Poissy is the most important in France, and together with that of Sceaux supplies the whole of Paris. It will, however, probably be trans- ferred to the metropolis. Conflans, at the confluence of the Seine and Oise, lies to the left. The train now traverses the forest of St. Germain (p. 203). At Maisons-Laffitte the Seine is again crossed. The chateau was formerly the property of the Comte d'Artois (Charles X.). It was afterwards presented to Marshal Lannes by Napoleon, and finally purchased by M. LafTitte, the financier. Near Bezons the line recrosses the Seine, and at Colombes unites with the St. Germain railway. St. Germain with its palace is a conspicuous object on an eminence to the right. The Seine is crossed for the last time at Asnieres, near which the lines to Argenteuil and Versailles diverge. The train now passes Clichy and intersects the fortifications of Paris ; on emer- ging from a short tunnel under the Place de l'Europe it reaches the station in the Rue St. Lazare. Conveyances, see p. 1. 42. By Southampton, Havre, and Rouen. By Railway to Southampton in 3 hours ; by Steamboat to Havre daily, generally at 11. 45 p. m. (see advertisements in the 'Times 1 or 'Bradshaw 1 ) in O 1 ^— 10 hrs. ; by Express from Havre to Paris in 5 hrs. \ by ordinary trains in 7 l f«2 hrs. omnibus from the quay to the station at Havre not incl. in the fare. Single tickets, available for 4 days, 28 s. and 20 s. \ return-tickets available for one month, 50 s. and 36 s. Luggage may be registered direct to Paris. — This 'cheap and picturesque 1 route as it is styled in the advertisements, is one of the pleasantest in summer. By Steamboat from London to Havre direct twice a week (see adver- tisements of General Steam Navigation Company) , average passage , incl. 5—6 hrs. in the Thames, 16 hrs. : fares the same as above. to Paris. LE HAVRE. 42. Route. 235 Le Havre. (Hotels : Frascati, opposite the beach, and bathing-place- *de rAmiraute", Grand Quai43; Hotel du Louvre and des Indes, both in the Grand Quai •, de r Europe, Rue de Paris ^ de Normandie, Rue de Paris, moderate. — Cafes: ' Reinart, Place du Spectacle } Ouichard, Place Napoleon III. \ du Siecle , well supplied with newspapers ; Alcazar, Chaussee d'Ingouville, a concert every evening. — Omnibus to the sta- tion 30 c. — Voiture 1 fr. 25 c. per drive. — English Church, Rue d'Orleans 5 American, Rue de la Paix formerly termed Havre de Grace, from the chapel of Notre Dame de Grace founded by Louis XII. in 1509, was fortified by Francis I. in 1516, and is now the harbour for Paris, and one of the most important sea-ports of France (80,130 inhab.). The buildings, as well as the com- mercial prosperity of the town , are of very recent origin. Its situation at the mouth of the Seine is extremely advantageous. The Rue de Paris, intersecting the town from N. to S., is the centre of traffic. The handsome Hotel de Vitle is a modern edifice, situated in the Place Napoleon III., with its Jardin Public. The original fortifications have been demolished, but the town and harbour are commanded by new forts erected on the heights of Ingouville and Ste. Adresse (p. 236). The extensive docks are capable of containing 500 — 600 vessels of considerable tonnage , which can enter the harbour during 3 — 4 hrs. every tide. The Retenue de la Floride is a large basin, by means of which, with the aid of a series of sluices, the accu- mulation of the deposits of the Seine at the mouth of the har- bour is prevented. This basin is connected with the spacious Bassin de VEure, constructed in 1846 — 1856, where the huge Transatlantic steamers lie. Extensive operations are still in progress for the improvement and fortification of the harbour. Next to Marseilles, Havre is the most important sea-port of France, and is frequented annually by about 6829 vessels of an aggregate tonnage of 1,269,000. The average annual value of the exports is 729 million fr. , that of the imports 541 million. The import duties amount to about 50, the export to 60 million fr. Opposite the Bassin de Commerce is situated the Theatre, erected in 1825, and considerably enlarged since a fire by which it was greatly damaged in 1843. Here, in 1796, Admiral Sir Sidney Smith, in an unsuccessful attempt to capture a French vessel, was stranded on the shallows of the estuary of the Seine, and taken prisoner by the French. Opposite to the harbour rises the Musee , in front of which are statues by David d' Angers of Bernardin de St. Pierre (author of 'Paul et Virginie' to which the reliefs refer) and Casimir de la Vigne, the dramatist, both natives of Havre. The Museum (open on Thursdays and Sundays 10 — 4 o'clock, at other times for a gratuity) contains several saloons with stuffed animals, among which is a whale stranded near Havre , a room with casts, a collection of pictures , and the Casimir Delavigne 236 Route 42. LE HAVRE, Gallery, dedicated to coins, statuettes and antiquities. The same building also contains a Library. The *Jetee , or pier , near the Hotel Frascati , commands a fine view ; to the right rises the precipitous Cote d! lngouville with its two lighthouses, to the left in the distance the coast of Honfleur, on the opposite side of the estuary. Numerous boats here afford the visitor an opportunity of enjoying an excursion by water. As Havre itself contains little to interest the traveller, those who have a few hours at their disposal are recommended to as- cend the eminence on which lngouville, a town with 12,000 inhab., is situated. Since the removal of the ramparts of Havre, Ingou- ville and Graville, another contiguous town, are now united with Havre , and contain numerous and handsome villas and gardens. The *view from the lighthouse which occupies the summit of the hill, 1^2 M. distant from the harbour of Havre, comprises the town with its forest of masts , the estuary of the Seine , to the S.W. in the distance the Rochers de Calvados, celebrated for their oyster-beds, and to the N. the promontory of La Heve with its two lighthouses. Havre being a convenient point of embarcation for the New World, shoals of emigrants are here periodically encountered. Honfleur (Cheval Blanc ; Dauphin), a remarkably picturesque fishing-town, situated on the opposite bank of the estuary of the Seine (by steamboat in 40 miti.) , with a population of 9553, affords a delightful summer residence. Railway in 6 — 8 hrs. to Paris by Lisieux , a station on the Paris and Cherbourg line.) The *C6te de Grace commands a magnificent prospect. The church of Ste. Catherine contains two pictures of some merit by Quellyn and Jordaens. Ste. Adresse (Hotel des Bains, concerts during the season; Hotel h la descente des Phares), delightfully situated a short dis- tance to the N.E. of Havre, and sheltered from the N. winds, annually attracts a considerable number of visitors. Trouville-SUr-Mer (Hotels: *des Roches No ires, R. 5—20, dej. 3i| 2 , D. 6 fr.; *de Paris, R. 5—20, dej. 3% D. 5 fr. ; *du Bras d^r, R. 2—10 fr., dej. 2»J 2 , D. 3^ d 1 Angleterre Bellevue; de la Mer. The Salon de Trouville comprises concert , reading , and ball-rooms \ sub- scription 6 fr. per week), situated about 10 M. to the S.W. of Honfleur (by railway in 30 min. ; by steamboat from Havre in 1 hr.) , is now a fashionable watering-place, frequented by Parisians of the highest class (5200 inhab.). The railway station at Havre is near the Cours Napoleon, not far from the Bassin Vauban. On quitting the station the traveller will observe Graville, with its interesting church of the 11th cent., on the high ground to the left. HARFLEUR. 42. Route. 237 Harfleur, once an important sea-port , is now entirely super- seded by Havre. Its harbour has , moreover , been completely filled up by the deposits of the Lezarde , which here falls into the Seine. In 1405 the town was taken by Henry V. of England, to whom the foundation of the church is attributed. It is a fine Gothic edifice, although in a sadly dilapidated condition. Nointot is the station for Bolbec, a flourishing industrial town with a population of 10,000. Yvetot is another manufacturing place with 9000 inhabitants, the ancient counts or soi-disants kings of which are thus de- scribed by Re'ranger (d. 1857) in his usual playful manner : 'II etait un roi cTYvetot, Peu connu dans Thistoire, Se levant tard, se couchant tot, Dormant fort bien sans gloire, Et couronne par Jeanneton D'un simple bonnet de coton. -1 Passing several unimportant stations, the train now quits the undulating and fertile table land (400 ft. above Rouen) of the Pays de Caux , as this district is termed , and descends to the lofty viaduct of Barentin, 1700 ft. in length, the highest arch of which is upwards of 100 ft. above the level of the valley. Shortly afterwards a tunnel, l 1 ^ ML in length, is entered, on emerging from which the train soon reaches Malaunay , where the Dieppe line diverges. From this point to Rouen , and Paris , see pp. 226—234. B. NORTH-WESTERN FRANCE. 43. From Paris to Orleans and Tours. Chemin deFer d 1 Orleans. Express to Orleans in 2^2, ordinary trains in 4i| 4 hrs. (fares 13 fr. 55, 10 fr. 15, 7 fr. 45 c.)? to Tours in 4i| 2 — 93| 4 hrs. (fares 26 fr. 20, 19 fr. 65, 14 fr. 40 c.). Station in the Boulevart de FHopital, comp. p. 28. The line ascends the 1. bank of the Seine, which is occasion- ally visible on the 1. On the r. Ivry , a manufacturing place with 12,000 inhab. Stat. Athis-Mons lies at the confluence of the Orge and the Seine. From stat. Juvisy a branch-line diverges to the 1. , following the course of the Seine , to the small manufacturing town of Corbeil and Maisse. The well-peopled valley of the Orge is now traversed. After crossing the river , the train commands an extensive view to the r. The ruined castle of Montlhery , with its lofty tower (104 ft.), is a conspicuous object in the landscape. It was once a place of great strength, and was often unsuccessfully besieged 238 Route 43. ORLEANS. From Paris before it came into the possession of the French kings. A battle took place here in 1465 between Louis and Charles the Bold, the leader of the French nobility (the 'Ligue du bien public'), which, although indecisive, compelled the king to make conces- sions. The castle was destroyed in the wars of the Huguenots. AtBretigny a line diverges to the r. to Dourdan, Chateaudun, and Vendome (110 M. from Paris), which will be prolonged to Tours, and will then be the most direct route between Paris and Tours. Stat. Chamarande possesses a chateau, erected by Mansard in the 17th cent. To the r. of stat. Etrechy the huge, ruined tower of Guinette becomes visible. It appertained to the citadel of the ancient town, and rises immediately to the r. above the station. Etampes ( Grand Courrier ; Bois de Vincennes), with 10,000 inh., consisting of a long street with many architecturally interesting buildings. The cathedral of Notre-Dame, in the Norman and pointed style combined, possesses a very graceful tower. St. Martin was erected in the first half of the 12th cent. ; the foundations of the tower (15th cent.) have settled, so that it is considerably out of the perpendicular. St. Gilles, the Hotel de Ville, and several other old buildings deserve inspection. Beyond Etampes the line ascends rapidly (1 : 125). The district is monotonous and uninteresting , but becomes more attractive as the vine-clad valley of the Loire is approached. Stat. Les Aubrais. Those who arrive here by express, change carriages in order to be conveyed to the town, 1 M. distant , the station of which is entered by the ordinary trains only. Orleans. * Hotel d 1 Or leans, Rue Bannier 118, R. 2, B. 1, D. 3^2 \ A. fr. *, Hotel Lorret and Trois Empereurs, Rue Bannier 18, Hotel Boule cTOr. Near the station the Hotel St. Aignan, much frequented. — Cafe Foy, Rue Bannier. — Bookseller .4. Gatineau, corner of the Rue Royale and the Rue Jeanne d'Arc. — Omnibus 30, with luggage 60 c. — Voiture iffa fr. per course, 2 fr. per hour. Orleans , the ancient Aurelianum, founded by the Emperor M. Aurelius (according to others by Aurelian) on the site of Genabum which was destroyed by Caesar, B. C. 52, lies on the r. bank of the Loire. It is the capital of the Department of the Loiret, with a population of 50,798. Its situation formerly rendered it a place of great military importance. It is now a quiet town, the ancient monuments of which have gradually given way to modern improvements. Its prosperity was materially injured by the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. A handsome bridge connects the town with the suburb St. Marceau. From the bridge the principal street, the Rue Royale, leads to the Place du Martroy with the statue (see below), and is prolonged by the Rue Bannier to the Boulevarts near the railway station. Below the Place the broad Rue Jeanne d'Arc diverges to the cathedral towards the E. to Orleans. OK LEANS. 43. Route. 239 The ^Equestrian Statue of Joan of Arc, by Foyatier, was erected by the town in 1855 , l avec le concours de la France entitre . The statue is 14 ft., the granite pedestal 15 ft. in height. The intention of the sculptor was to represent the Maid in the attitude of returning thanks to God for a victory , but the execution is somewhat unsatisfactory. The reliefs on the pedestal represent the principal events in the life of the heroine, beginning at the back on the 1. : 1. Joan (born at the village of Domremy in 1412) with her flock summoned by saints to the succour of her distressed countrymen; 2. Her departure from Vaucouleurs ; 3. Interview at Chinon with Charles VII. , whom she convinces of her divine mission; 4. Entrance into the besieged town of Orleans, Apr. 29th, 1429 : 'Messire m'a envoye pour secourir la bonne ville d'Orleans' : 5 (to the h above) Capture on May 7th of Tourelles , the tete- de-pont on the L bank of the Loire , in consequence of which the siege was raised (the Maid was wounded on this occasion), 6. (to the r. above) Coronation of Charles VII. at Rheims, July 17th ; 7. Joan wounded in the attack on Paris; 8. Her capture at Com- piegne in 1430 (comp. p. 257); 9. Her captivity at Rouen; 10. Her death (p. 232). The * Cathedral, partially destroyed by the Huguenots in 1468, was gradually restored in the 17th cent. The principal facade with its two truncated towers (286 ft. in height) , was completed in 1766, the towers themselves in 1829. The vast dimensions of the exterior, as well as of the interior with its nave and double aisles , produce an imposing effect. The chapels of the choir are a fine specimen of late Gothic of the 14th cent. ; the stained glass is modern. On a marble pedestal adjacent to the cathedral rises the bronze statue of Robert Joseph Pothier , the eminent jurist (d. 1772), erected in 1859. In the same Place is situated the *H6tel de Ville, erected in the florid Renaissance style in 1530, restored in 1850—54. The Caryatides at the side- entrances are attributed to Jean Goujon. The interior (concierge 1 fr.) deserves inspection , especially the Salle des Manages and the Salle des Conferences with line wainscoting and chimney-piece. One of the rooms contains a cast of a beautiful statuette of Joan of Arc on horseback , over a mortally wounded English soldier, executed by the Princess Mary of Orleans. To the S. of the Rue Jeanne d'Arc is situated the old Town Hall, erected in the 15th cent. It contains the Museum (open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays , 12—4 o'clock ; to strangers at any time for a gratuity). Among the pictures may be mentioned Nos. 12 — 15 in the first saloon, painted for Richelieu by Claude Dervet of Nancy, allegorically representing the four elements, and remarkable for their quaint style-, 500. Statue of Venus, by Pradier ; 496. Hebe with the eagle, by Vilain. In the room to 240 Route 43. BLOIS. From Paris the r. several modern pictures and a statue of Venus by Mollknecht; on the 1. portraits. Then a room with casts, and two others with sculpture, carving, etc. The upper story contains a nat. history collection which com- prises the Collection Dtpartementale, exhibiting the Fauna of the environs. In the immediate vicinity is the so-called * House of Diana of Poitiers , a charming specimen of the Renaissance style , the side towards the court particularly well preserved. It contains the Musee Historique, a collection of local antiquities. No. 15 Rue de Tabourg, to the E. of the Rue Royale, is the so-called *House of Agnes Sorel (mistress of Charles VII.). No. 45 in the same street is the House of Joan of Arc , in which she resided during her stay in the town. No. 28 Rue de la Recou- vrance is the House of Francis I. Several other ancient houses also merit inspection. Orleans was occupied by a small Bavarian force on Oct. 11th, 1870, which was forced to evacuate the town by the Loire army of Gen. Aurelles de Paladine ; but the success of the latter was of brief duration. On Dec. 2nd he was attacked by the Prus- sians under the 'Red Prince' Frederick Charles, and signally de- feated in a succession of bloody skirmishes. On Dec. 5th the town was re-occupied by the Germans. The train from Orleans to Tours returns to Les Aubrais (p. 238). The express trains do not enter the station of Orleans, passengers for which by these trains change carriages. The best views are now on the 1. The line traverses the broad and sunny valley of the Loire, on the N. side of the river. The district is well cultivated, and abounds in vineyards. The river is rarely visible, but ancient towns and castles render the journey interesting. Stat. Meung possesses a Romanesque church and a half ruined castle peeping forth from the trees. The small and antiquated town of Beaugency is picturesquely situated between two hills. It is commanded by a venerable and massive square tower (10th or 11th cent.) which adjoins the castle. Town Hall of the 16th cent. Then stat. Mer. An excursion may be made hence to the celebrated chateau of Cham- bord (near it the *H6tel St. Michael), situated to the S. of the Loire. It was founded by Francis I., but not finished till the reign of Louis XV. The latter presented it to Marshal Saxe, who died here in 1750. It was subsequently occupied by Stanislaus Lesczynski, the exiled king of Poland. Napoleon presented it to Marshal Berthier, from whose widow it was purchased by a legitimist subscription and presented to the actual proprietor in 1821. Stat. Suevres; then Menars, with a handsome chateau, once occupied by Madame de Pompadour. Blois (Grand Hotel de Blois; Hotel d ' Angleterre) , an ancient town with 20,331 inhab., situated on an eminence on the Loire, over which a bridge leads to the Faubourg Vienne, is the capital of the Department Loir-et Cher. The chateau, once a residence of the French kings, is rich in historical reminiscences of Louis XII., Francis I., Henry III., and Catharine and Mary de Mediois. The to Orleans. TOURS. 43. Route. 241 church of St. Nicolasis a fine Gothic structure of the 12th cent. The Cathedral or Church of the Jesuits is by Mansard. The plea- sant situation of the town attracts frequent visitors. Omnibus in 2 hrs. to Chambord (see above). The line now skirts the river , the bank of which is protected by a bulwark. Traces of the destructive inundation of 1866 are still everywhere visible. S. of the Loire, beyond stat. Onzain, rises the handsome chateau of Chaumont, %nce the residence of Catharine de Medicis. Amboise (Lion d'Or), a town with 4570 inhab., possesses a chateau of the 15th cent., the interior of which, however, was entirely modernised by Louis Philippe, who kept Abd el Kader in confinement here. The latter was indebted for his liberation to the Emperor Napoleon III. The conspiracy of Amboise against the Guises in 1560 terminated in a fearful massacre of the impli- cated Huguenots. Leonardo da Vinci died at Amboise in 1519. The chateau of Chenonceaux on the Cher, erected by Francis I., exterior and interior in admirable preservation, is situated 9 J / 2 M. to the S. Three stations in a fertile district. The train then crosses the Loire. To the L. a number of cavities in the rocks, employed as dwellings, are visible, a somewhat strange phenomenon in the 19th cent., which however is observed in other localities in France. Stat. Montlouis. Then over the Cher to St. Pierre des Corps , where the express trains stop. Passengers by these trains change carriages for Tours. The ordinary trains only go as far as the town. Tours. "Hotel de TUnivers in the Boulevart, R. 4, D. 4, A. and L. Ujt fr. ; Hotel de Bordeaux and Victoria in the Boulevart; Ho- tel de TEurope, Rue de Paris 10-, Hotel du Faisan, Rue Royale 9, all with similar charges, and frequently occupied by families making a prolonged stay. :: Hotel du Croissant, less pretending, a commercial inn. — Cafes de la Ville and d u Commerce in the Rue Royale. — Omnibus with luggage 60 c. — English Church Service. Tours , the Roman Caesarodunum, capital of the Turones , the central point of the Department of the Indre and Loire , formerly of the county of Touraine , with 41,061 inhab., is situated in a fertile plain on the 1. bank of the Loire. The river is crossed by a handsome bridge of 15 arches, from which the Rue Royale, the principal street, extends to the Boulevarts, bisecting the town. In the Place in front of the bridge stands the statue of the celebrated philosopher Rene Descartes or Cartesius ; on the pedestal is inscribed the fundamental maxim of his philosophy: l Cogito, ergo sum\ At the entrance of the Rue Royale , on the r. , is situated the Hotel de Ville, on the 1. the Museum (open on Sun- days 12 — 4 o'clock). The latter contains pictures and casts on the first floor, and on the second nat. historical and archaeological collections. BjEDRKER. Paris. 3rd Edition. 242 Route 43. TOURS. To the I. in the Kue Royale is the church of St. Julien , a fine Gothic edifice of 1224 , parts of which are of still earlier date, restored in 1847. The interior is plain. No. 35 Rue du Commerce (the second to the r. from the bridge) is a handsome ^Renaissance edifice of 1400 , recently restored. The same street contains several other interesting houses, e. g. the corner-house in the Vieux Marche. In the Rue Martin in the vicinity rise on opposite sides of the street two towers , the Tour de St. Martin and the Tour de Charlemagne, which once appertained to the great cathedral of St. Martin. From the 7th cent, downwards this church was regarded as a most sacred shrine, and was visited by vast num- bers of pilgrims, but was plundered by the Huguenots, and totally destroyed during the revolution. The corn-hall was formerly a church of St. Clement , dating from the 16th cent. E. of the Rue Royale stands the *Cathedral of St. Gatien. The richly decorated principal facade , with its three lofty portals, dates from 1510. The towers were roofed in at a later period, and consequently do not harmonise with the rest of the structure. The interior (12th — 15th cent.) is in the purest Gothic style. The rose-windows, and those of the chapels of the choir merit examination. The first chapel in the choir to the r. contains a Renaissance monument to the two children of Charles VIII., after whose death Louis XII. , of the younger branch of the House of Valois, acceded to the throne in 1498. In proceeding hence to the river the traveller observes in the barracks to the r. an ancient tower , the last fragment of a castle erected in the 12th cent. A chain-bridge (5 c.) crosses by an island to the other side of the river, on which there is a pleasant promenade. Tours attracts a number of foreign residents, especially English families, on account of the mildness of its climate. From Tours to Angers (GS 1 ^ M.) railway in 2 l \-z — 3 J |2 Krs'. *, fares 12 fr., 9 fr. 25, 6 fr. 50 c. The line returns at station Cinq- Mars to the r. bank of the Loire, on which it remains. Station Saumur, with 14,079 inhabitants, is remarkable for its handsome Hotel de Ville, and numerous windmills. Celtic antiquities in the vicinity. Angers see p. 246. From Tours to Le Mans (62 M.) bv railway in 3 hrs. ; fares 11 fr. 10, 8 fr. 30, 6 fr. 10 c. ; Le Mans see p. 244. 44. From Paris to Nantes by Chartres, Le Mans, and Angers. 247 1 j'i M. By express in 9, ordinary trains in 15 hrs. :, fares 44 fr. 35. 33 fr. 25, 24 fr. '35 c. To Chartres (55 M.) express in l 2 /s, ordinary trains in 2i| 2 hrs. , fares 9 fr. 85, 7 fr. 40, 5 fr. 40 c. \ from Chartres to Le Mans (77 M.) express in 2 1 |2, ordinary trains in 3 l \>2 hrs. ; fares 13 fr. 90, 10 fr. 30, 7 fr. 60 c. 5 from Le Mans to Angers (6O1J2 M.) by express in 2, ordinary trains in 3 hrs. \ fares 10 fr. 85, 8 fr. 15, 5 fr. 15 c. ; from Angers to Nan- tes (55 M.) express in 2, ordinary trains in 4 hrs. j fares 9 fr. 85, 7 fr. 40, 5 fr. 40 c. — Railway station in the Boulevart Montparnasso (conip. p. 228). CHAKTKKS. 44. Route. 2i!> Journey to Versailles see p. 182. No stoppages at the minor stations , except sometimes at Bellevue. Stat. St. Cyr possesses a celebrated military school , founded in 1806 , where 350 pupils , who are received from their 16th to their 20th year, are prepared for the army. About 140 stu- dents annually obtain their commissions. An establishment for girls originally occupied this spot, founded by Madame de Main- tenon, who died and was interred here in 1719. At St. Cyr a branch-line diverges to Dreax and Laigle. Rambouillet possesses an ancient chateau of the kings of France, where Charles X. signed his abdication in 1830. Stat. Maintenon, with its old castle , gives its name to Fran- chise d'Aubigne, widow of the author Scarron , who in 168S, when in her 50th year, was married to Louis XIV. The ruins of the huge aqueduct, which that monarch purposed constructing for his gardens in Versailles, are observed in the vicinity. From 1685 to 1688 about 30,000 men, principally soldiers, were employed in this undertaking, but it was never completed, and Louis for the future avoided this locality. His successor employed part of the materials in erecting the chateau of Cre'cy for Madame de Pompadour. The valley is crossed by a long viaduct. The train crosses the Eure and reaches Chartres. *H$tei du Due die Chart res $ Hotel du Monar- (| ue: Hotel de France, all in the Place des Epars, and very unpre- tending. In the same Place Cafes de France and du Monarque. Chartres , the loftily situated capital of the Department Eure- et-Loire , with 19,531 inhab. , is one of the most ancient towns in France. The ^Cathedral of Notre Dame is one of the finest Gothic edifices in France. The crypt dates from the beginning of the 11th cent; the upper part of the church was not completed till 1260. The towers are not uniform; that on the S. side, 345ft. high, belongs to the older structure; that on the N., 373ft. high and of graceful open-work , was added in 1506 — 1514. The W. Fagade, between the two towers, has three portals : in the centre the Porte Royale, decorated with royal saints ; over the door Christ with prophets and elders. The entire facade is in the chaste style of the 12th cent., the figures however somewhat approaching Byzantine stiffness. The X. and 8. entrances, both much richer, roofed in and approached by steps, are of the 14th cent. The profuseness of ornamentation for which both exterior and interior are remarkable is very striking ; upwards of 1800 separate ligures have been counted. The Interior produces a most imposing impression owing to the pu- rity and vigour of its proportions. Length 430 ft., breadth 150 ft., height of nave 140 ft. Magnificent stained glass, principally of the 13th cent., representing events in Scripture history and legends of saints ; the three rose-windows merit special attention. The Choi)' possesses a double passage and seven chapels. The interior, of the last cent., harmonises badly with the remainder of the church. The outer screen is adorned with reliefs in the late Gothic style (begun 16* 244 Route 44. LE MANS. From Paris in 1514, not completed till 1706), representing events from the lives of Christ and the Virgin^ the details remarkahly elegant. In the first chapel on the 1. is the Vierge Noire, a miraculous image of the Virgin, which since the middle ages has been an object of profound veneration } the sur- rounding walls are covered with votive offerings. The Lower Church (Durand, S. side of the church, keeps the keys), per- taining to an ancient edifice of the 11th cent. , extends under the entire upper church, and contains a number of chapels, which are now under- going restoration. The ascent of the roof and the towers is recommended, more for the thorough inspection of the church itself than for the sake of the view. St. Pierre , in the lower part of the town , near a hussar-bar- rack, dating from the 12th to the 14th cent., exhibits the transition from the Norman to the pointed style. At Chartres a much frequented corn-market is held on Satur- days. In the market-place , Place Marceau , between the old and new parts of the town on the side towards the railway station, stands an obelisk commemorative of General Marceau, a native of the town, 'soldat a 16 cms, general tt 23, il mourut a 27.' Another statue of the general in bronze, was erected in the Place des Epars in 1851. Several ancient structures, such as the Porte Guillaume (14th cent.), deserve inspection. The railway from Chartres to Le Mans conveys the traveller past several small stations to Nogent-le-Rotrou , with an ancient chateau, once the property of Sully. The Hotel Dieu, founded by him, contains his monument and that of bis wife in a kneeling posture, by Boduin (1642); his remains were disinterred and dispersed in 1793. Stat. La Ferte Bernard possesses a late -Gothic church of great merit. The town-hall is established in an old gateway. Le Mans. Hotel do Dauphin; Boule d'Or, commercial ; Ho- tel de France, all in the Place des Halles. Cafes de TUnivers and de r Europe, etc., in the same Place. — Omnibus 30 c, with luggage 60 c. Le Mans, with 37,209 inhab. , situated on an eminence on the 1. bank of the Sarthe , and the capital of the Department of that name , formerly of the province of Maine , is an ancient town of considerable importance and boasts of several attractive edifices. The ^Cathedral of St. Julien , occupying the loftiest site in the town , is one of the most interesting churches in France. It owes its origin to different periods , the various styles of which present a most striking contrast. The simple W. Facade dates from the lith cent. } that on the S. con- tains a rich Portal in the Romanesque style of the 12th cent. At the S.W. corner a high block of sandstone built into the wall is believed to be of Druidical origin. The entire nave in the Romanesque style with pointed arches exhibits the transition state of the two styles, and belongs to the lith and 12th centuries. Certain portions bear manifest marks of great antiquity, and the construction of the external walls recalls the Roman opus reticulatum (i. e. small stones with a superabundance of mortar, in contradistinction to the solid slabs of Gothic masonry). It is therefore probable that remnants of the earliest structure . dating from the 8th or 9th cent., still exist. to Nantes. LE MANS. U. Route. 245 The Choir, on the other hand, is constructed in the matured pointed style of the 13th cent., and the nave, especially in the interior, appears low and depressed when compared with the noble proportions of the for- mer. It possesses a double passage with 13 chapels and beautiful stained glass. The rose - windows are of later date (beginning of the 15th cent.). The r. transept contains the monument of Berengaria , consort of Richard Coeur de Lion, placed here in 1821. The first chapel of the Choir to the 1. contains the monuments of Charles IV. of Anjou (d. 1492) and Guillaume de Bellay-Langey, a distinguished statesman and author in the reign of Francis I. Adjoining the cathedral is a handsome building in the Re- naissance style , termed he Grabatoir. The house opposite the tower is said to have once belonged to Scarron (p. 243). Below the cathedral extend regular avenues , where the Theatre is situ- ated. The lower apartments contain a Musee Historique with nu- merous antiquities (open on Sundays 12 — 4 o'clock). The abbey-church of *Notre Dame de la Couture, at present undergoing restoration , possesses a tine portal of the 13th cent. The choir and crypt date from the commencement of the 11th cent.; the nave and aisles are less ancient. The adjacent monastery has been converted into the Pre- fecture. The building also comprises a Library and Museum (Sundays, Thursdays, Fridays, 10 — 3 o'clock). The pictures are mediocre. An ^'enamelled slab of the 12th cent. , representing Geoffrey Plantagenet, count of Anjou and Maine, which formerly de- corated his tomb in the cathedral, but was removed during the Revo- lution , is an object of interest. There is also a Nat. Hist. Col- lection, and several relics of antiquity. The town is connected with the quarter on the r. bank by several bridges. The bank affords a pleasant promenade , passing several old-fashioned wooden mills, the motive power of which is the stream of the river. A good survey is obtained hence of the narrow and crooked streets of the older quarters of the town. Near the river, on the r. bank, is situated *Notre Dame du Pre, an ancient church of the 11th cent, with a crypt, now under- going renovation. Le Mans was occupied by the partisans of the Vendee in 1793 , but was again wrested from them by Marceau ( p. 244) , who sanctioned a fearful massacre among the women and children who accompanied them. From Le Mans to Rennes and Brest, see p. 253. From Le Mans to Tours see p. 242. • The line now follows the valley of the Sarthe , which it fre- quently crosses. Stat. La Suze possesses a bridge of the time of Henry IV., and an ancient chateau, now the town-hall, once occupied by Gilles de Retz , better known as Barbe-bleue , who after having committed many enormities was burned at Nantes in 1440. At stat. Sable is a chateau of the last cent. ; black marble is extensively quarried in the vicinity , and several coal-mines are 246 44. Route. ANGERS. From Paris encountered. The Benedictine abbey of Solesmes, containing some celebrated sculpture in the late Gothic style, is situated Vfe M. from Sable. Several small stations ; then the junction of this line with that from Tours. As Angers is approached, numerous slate-quarries are observed, which yield upwards of 150 million slabs annually, supplying a considerable part of France and of the neighbouring countries. Angers. "Hotel d'Anjou, agreeably situated in the Boulevart and the Champ de Mars ; :: Cheval Blanc, Rue St. Aubin. — Faisan-, Londres on the quay, unpretending. — Cafe Serin, Rue St. Au- bin 41. — Omnibus 30, with luggage 50 c. — Steamboats to Nantes daily - } fares 3 fr. 20, 2 fr. 20 c. Angers, capital of the Department Maine-et-Loire , formerly of the Duchy of Anjou , with 56,797 inhab. , is situated on both sides of the Maine, which is formed by the union of the Mayenne and Sarthe a short distance above the town and empties itself into the Loire 6 M. below. Thus favourably situated in the vicinity of three navigable rivers , the town has always been a place of considerable importance. Its exterior has recently been extensively modernised, and its former sobriquet of 'la ville noire' is no longer applicable. It still, however, contains a great number of interesting relics. The principal quarter of the town lies on the 1. bank of the river. The ramparts have been converted into boulevarts. To the E. of these is an open space, the Champ de Mars; adjacent are the limited grounds and shady avenue of the Jardin du Mail; farther N. is a small Botanic Garden. Descending the Boulevart to the W. the visitor reaches the * 'Castle , close to the river, a massive structure of the 13th cent., with moats and 17 round towers (75 ft. high). The interior now serves as a magazine, and , with the exception of a late Gothic chapel , contains nothing- worthy of special mention. In front of the castle stands the bronze Statue of King Rent of Anjou, a work of David, 1853; on the pedestal are represented 12 princes of Anjou, from Dumnacus, the opponent of Caesar, and Roland downwards; also lists of the dukes and counts of Anjou. The loftily situated ^Cathedral of St. Maurice was commenced in the 11th, but not completed till the 13th cent. It is sur- mounted by two slender towers , the effect of which is somewhat marred by the Renaissance erection subsequently introduced be- tween them. The principal facade exhibits the simple style of the 12th cent., and is adorned with sculptures, Christ and saints; higher up are statues of seven dukes of Anjou of a more re- cent period. The interior consists of a long nave without aisles. To the 1. of the entrance a basin for holy water of green marble, said to be of Byzantine workmanship, and a gift of king Rene. The to Nantes. ANGERS. 44. Route. 247 church is also remarkable for its rich stained glass of the 13th cent. The * Museum, in the Rue Courte, a short distance S. of the cathedral, occupies a most attractive edifice, partly Gothic and partly Renaissance, erected about 1500 (Sundays and Thursdays 12 — 4 o'clock; at other times for a fee). The ground-floor con- tains casts; one hall and two rooms here contain the principal works of the sculptor David (d. 1856), a native of Angers, most of them presented by himself. There are altogether about 150 works, forming an instructive series. Five rooms on the first floor con- tain pictures by ancient and modern masters; a small 'Holy Family' is attributed to Raphael. The mineralogical department in the Nat. Hist. Cabinet is especially valuable. Also a collection of Antiquities, and a Library. In the Rue Courte the traveller will also perceive the tower of St. Aubin (12th cent.), belonging to a former monastery, now the prefecture. The neighbouring church of St. Martin (12th cent.) has been converted into a magazine. At the N. extremity of the town, near the seminary and the Jardin des Plantes, stands St. Serge, an edifice of different pe- riods, portions of it very old. The simple nave, without tran- septs or aisles, is entered from the vestibule. The choir of the 1 1th cent, is borne by 6 very slender columns. The Marne is crossed at the N. end of the town by a chain- bridge, the Pont de la Haute Chaine (5 c). Beyond it, on the r., appears the extensive modern Hospice Ste. Marie, capable of ac- commodating upwards of 1000 patients and indigent persons. To the 1. the Hospice St. Jean, founded in the 12th cent. Below the bridge the ruins of the old Pont des Treilles are observed; farther on, the Grand Pont, or principal bridge. A third bridge, the Pont de la Basse Chaine, crosses the river by the castle. A suspension-bridge formerly occupied this position, but fell in 1850 as a battalion of light infantry was passing over it, 223 of whom were drowned. On the r. bank of the Maine (not far from the Grand Pont) is the church de la Trinite, in the transition style of the 11th and 12th centuries. The adjoining church du Ronceray, of the Tlth cent., is within the precincts of the Ecole des Arts et Metiers, and is in a very dilapidated condition. Both of these churches are undergoing restoration. St. Jacques, outside the Boulevarts, is also of very early origin. Several other medieval houses are observed in the narrow streets of the old town. A visit to the slate-quarries, of which the most extensive are Les Grands Carreaux (omnibus in the Boulevart, corner of the Rue St. Aubin, every even hour, -40 c), is interesting. Another 218 Route 44. NANTES. From Paris excursion (omnibus from the same point every half-hour, 25 c.) is to the Ponts de Ce on the Loire, 2 M. distant. The line to Nantes crosses the Maine near stat. La Pointe, and then follows the r. bank of the Loire. At stat. Champtocc are the ruins of the chateau of Gilles de Ketz (p. 245), the veri- table French Bluebeard, who is said to have murdered upwards of 100 girls and children, whose blood he drank in order to restore himself to youth. To the 1., on the opposite bank of the river, rises Montjean with a ruined monastery. Beyond stat. Ingrandes and Varades, St. Florent-le-Vieil is perceived on the opposite bank of the Loire, a place frequently mentioned in the wars of the Vendee, which district commences at this point. At stat. Ancenis a suspension-bridge ; at Oudon a lofty and ancient church-tower. Several tunnels and small stations are passed, and the train reaches Nantes. Hotels: Hotel de France, in the Place Graslin ; Ho- tel du Commerce, Rue Santeuil ; Hotel de Bretagne, Place du Port Communeau 6, a quiet situation \ Hotel de la Fleur, Place Nep- tune 4; Hotel de TEurope, Place Neptune 7 ; Hotel d e Paris, Rue Boileau , not far from the Passage } Hotel d e s Voyageurs, Rue Mo- liere. Restaurants and Cafes: several in the Place Graslin. Principal news- paper : Phare de la Loire. Omnibus with luggage 60 c. — Fiacre per drive 1 fr. 25 c. per hr. li( 2 fr. Post-Office in the Passsage Pommeraye. Consuls. English : Mr. P. Barrow, Rue He'ronniere 6 ; N. American : M. de la Montagnie, Quai Fosse 78. English Church Service, every Sunday. Steamboats to Angers, St. Nazaire, Bordeaux, and other French sea- ports. A regular line of communication has also recently been established between St. Nazaire. and America (comp. p. 251). Nantes (popul. 113,625) is situated on the r. bank of the Loire, at the point where it receives the Erdre, coming from the N., which flows through the centre of the town, and the Sevre from the S. It lies 32 M. from the sea, so that vessels of small tonnage (200) only can ascend as far as the town; it is however regarded as the fourth seaport of France (after Mar- seilles, Havre, and Bordeaux). It is now the most important sugar-mart of France; in 1863 upwards of 60,000 tons were imported and manufactured here. The infport-dues amounted to 29,549,024 fr. An extensive ship-building traffic is also here carried on. r Nantes was founded prior to the Roman period. It was subsequently one of the chief towns of Brittany. In the Revolution it was remarkable for its republican bias , and in 1793 strenuously and successfully opposed the partisans of the Vendee. The town has acquired a melancholy ce- lebrity from the 'Noyades" of Carrier, a brutal, ignorant miscreant, who had been an advocate in Auvergne, and was sent by the 'committee for the public welfare 1 to Nantes Oct. 8th, 1793, but recalled on Feb. 1st 1794, He is said to have put to death within 4 months (the numbers given by different accounts vary) 6 — 9000 persons, a large proportion of whom were women Darmstadt, E — l l \-> hrs. ; fares 26 fr. 75, 20 fr. 10, 14 fr. 70 c. — Station in the Rue St. Lazare (p. 27). As far as Mantes (BG'^M.j, where the Cherbourg line diverges from that to Rouen and Havre , the journey has been described at p. 232. The valley of the Seine is ^quitted, and the scenery is uninteresting. Beyond stat. Bueil on the Eure, the river is crossed. St. Evreux (Grand Cerf), capital of the De'partement de fEure (12,265 inhab.) , boasts of an interesting cathedral , a museum, etc. and busy traffic in cotton manufactures. The town lies on the Itou, an affluent of the Eure , which the railway now follows. Beyond stat. La Bonneville the train enters a tunnel beneath Conches, a village on an eminence, possessing a tine church (St. Foy) and a ruined castle. A branch -line here diverges to tiie 1. to Laiyle ( p. 241). From stat. Serquigny a line runs to stat. Oissel , affording the most direct communication between Caen and Rouen. Stat. Bernay*U a manufacturing place; so also stat. Lisieux, a town with 13,121 inhab., boasting of a handsome Gothic church (St. Pierre). Branch-line hence by Pont I'Eveque to Honfleur and Trouville (p. 234). The train then passes through a tunnel, nearly 2 M. in length. Stat. Mezidon is the junction of a line which runs to Argentan, Alencon, and Le Mans (p. 244). Caen. Hotel d 1 Angle terre, Rue St. Jean 79-, ::: Sainte Barbe, Rue Ecuyere 13, not expensive; Hotel Humby, on fekd i^ay, an English CAEN. 47. Route. 2B5 house. — Omnibus with luggage J 5 c. (low fare owing to great competition). — Fiacre per drive 1, per hr. 2 fr.. luggage 25 e. English Church Service, Rue de la Geole. Caen, capital of the Department of Calvados , with a popul. of 43,740, on he Orne, 9 M. distant from the sea, is indebted for its extent and importance to William the Conqueror. It finally became subject to France in 1450. The town suffered severely during the wars of the Huguenots, and still more ill consequence of the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes (1685). 'Cette ville au jugement de chacun qui la voit et contemple, est Tune des plus belles, spacieuses et delectables, qu'on puisse regarder', is the opinion pronounced respecting Caen by an his- torian of the town. The traveller will not fail to find this opinion confirmed by a visit to Caen , the principal attraction of which however consists rather in its relics of antiquity than in its modern 'improvements'. *St. Etienne, or I J Abb aye aux Hornmes, was commenced by William the Conqueror in 1066, and completed in 1077. This work was undertaken by him, and the Abbaye aux Dames (p. 255) was at the same time founded by his consort Matilda in expiation of their offence of intermarriage within the prohibited degree. The principal facade towards the W. is strikingly simple. The interior is also remarkable for its vigour and severity. The nave is formed by two series of round arches , one above the other. A contrast to this Romanesque construction is afforded by the Gothic choir of the 12th cent., to which period the upper portions of the towers also belong. The choir is flanked by 16 chapels. A black marble slab marks the tomb of the founder (d. 1087), who by his own wish was interred here. His bones, however, were dispersed by the Huguenots. A portrait of the Conqueror is preserved in the Sacristy. The adjacent monastery has been converted into a Lycee. To the N. of St. Etienne stands the former church of St. Ni- colas (1083), now employed as a hay-magazine. To the S. E. La Gloriette , a Gothic edifice of the 15th cent., recently ju- diciously restored. In the centre of the town stands *St. Pierre, which possesses one of the most beautiful Gothic towers in existence (229 ft. high), erected in 1308. Its central storey contains long, narrow windows, a perfect model of vigour combined with gracefulness. The summit consists of elegant open-work in stone. The decorated portals, as well as the nave, date from the 14th cent., whilst the ceiling, and the choir and its chapels, with their overladen and fantastic decorations, belong to the 16th cent. The capitals of the columns of the nave have been decorated with a variety of the most whimsical devices , such as Lancelot riding across the 256 Roue 47. CAEN. From Paris sea on his sword , Aristotle with bridle and bit employed as a 1 steed by the mistress of Alexander, etc. In the main street, which runs hence to the quay and railway I station and derives its appellation from the church , is situated St. Jean , with two unfinished towers of the 1 4th cent. Resto- ration begun, but far from complete. A Palace, rising on the eminence to the N. above St. Pierre, was also erected by William the Conqueror , but the sole rem- nants of it still extant are the chapel of St. Georges, restored in the 15th cent. , and an ancient hall , both now employed as ar- tillery-magazines. On an eminence to the E., outside the town, rises *Ste. Tri- nite, or UAbbaye aux Dames, consecrated in 1066, but not com- pleted until a later date. It is smaller and far more attractive than St. Etienne, to which it forms a most pleasing counterpart. With the exception of the upper parts of the towers , it is a perfect specimen of the pure Romanesque style. In the choir, which is reserved for the nuns of the adjoining convent, the remains of the foundress Matilda repose. Beneath the choir is a crypt, supported by 36 buttresses. The buildings of the cloister are modern, and comprise a hospital, superintended by sisters of the Augustine order. The Place Roy ale is a handsome modern square, but desti- tute of life. The centre is adorned with a very mediocre bronze Statue of Louis XIV. by Petitot. The handsome Hotel de Ville contains a ^Picture Gallery (entrance in the court on the 1. , 1st door to the 1. on the 1st floor; open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays, 11 — 4 o'clock), of considerably greater merit than the collections usually met with in the provinces. 1st Room: Modern pictures. 2nd Room: -Penigino, Sposalizio (Nuptials of the Virgin), from the cathedral of Perugia, carried off by the French during the Revolution and not restored-, this is the identical model on which Raphael based his celebrated and far more highly perfected pic- ture of the same subject, in the Brera at Milan, an engraving of which may be inspected here for the sake of comparison. 3rd Room: Rvbens, Melchisedek offering bread and wine to Abraham •, several pictures by P. Veronese, Judith, Temptation of St. Antony, Exodus of the Jews, Christ gives Peter the keys of Heaven-, Jordaens, Beggar. 4th Room: Modern pictures. 5th Room: Animal pieces; Van der Meulen, Passage of the Rhine by Louis XIV. There is also a Collection of Antiquities, opposite which is a Library of considerable extent. The University Buildings, Rue de la Chaine , contain an ex- tensive Natural History Museum,, which at the same time com- prises the collection made in the Pacific by Admiral Dumont d'Urville (p. 178). Caen and its environs afford abundant materials for architec- tural research. The Departement du Calvados boasts of no fewer than 70 churches of the 11th and 12th centuries. The bank of the Orne affords a pleasant walk. Ljih.ge. 7{a Monument des Martyrs G.3. 26 Maseeyftablenajr) .,, 3)4. 27 - desuh>mures etde. antiquites A.4. ?8 Ooseroaioire H5. 29 Palm's desJrtsetdel'Jndas.JkS, 30 - deJasOce TX4 31 « de la Nation E5. 32 < dnPrineeffereduaireE^ 33 „ 34 Prison desPetits Carmes Ca. %h Poste anxlettres E4. 36 Statue dn&eneraIBe n iardE.S. 37 " dedodefroidde Bouillon D.5. 38 « deLeopold . B7 39 rfo r^Wm^ 03. 40 r -Bil JBanlenar deFlandre, 3)5 c d&lJEnrope D.5. A dela bi'and&Bretngne 3). 5. e deFrance 3£5. -f delaRegenee 3). 5. ^ Jzzi^e E.3. a djC^TTrtcrtrs G3. i deSaxe . &3 fc deiPnsyieJFEitipereur* G.3. 1 desFtra/igers E.3- in dv Hollande E/t. ii de Brabant. E.3 to Cologne. BRUSSELS. •18. Route. 265 Estaminets or beer-houses are very numerous. One of the best is the Hotel de la Monnaie, opposite the theatre. 'Faro 1 is weak and acid, 'Lou- vain 1 similar, but sweeter. Bavarian beer at PutlCs^ Rue du Tir 20, out* side' the. gate of Naraur ; at the Prince Charles, Rue d'Aremberg 10, in the rear of the Passage, etc. Shops : the most attractive are in the Rue de la Madeleine and Mon- tagne de la Cour. English Church Service at the Chapel Royal, Rue du Musee (9 a. m. and 2. 30 p. m.), at the Chapel in the Boulevart de TObservatoire, and at the Evangelical Chapel, Rue Belliard. Brussels, the capital of Belgium and residence of the King, contains a population of 300,541, including the suburbs, two-thirds of whom speak Flemish, one-third French. Like Paris it possesses its Cafe des Mille Colonnes , a counterpart of the Champs Elysees and the Garden of the Tuileries in the Allee Yerte an the Park, its Boulevarts, Cafes-chantants, etc. This Paris in miniature should be seen before the great French metropolis by those who would avoid disappointment. The passing visitor is recommended to take the following walk : Adjacent to the Rue Neuve, which leads from the station into the city, rises the Martyrs' Monument (PL 25), designed by Geefs, and erected in 1838 to the memory of those who fell in the war with Holland in 1830. The marble figure represents 'Belgium Delivered' 5 marble tablets in an open vault record the names (445) of the slain. Then past the Theatre Royal to the * Hotel de Ville (PL 20), resembling that of Louvain; the magnificent facade was completed in 1442; the statues of Dukes of Brabant, erected in 1853, replace those mutilated by the sans-culottes in 1793. The graceful tower, 388 ft. in height, is for some unexplained reason not in the centre of the edifice. The interior contains nothing remarkable. The entire square, or Grande Place, is adorned with handsome mediaeval buildings; on the W. side the various guild-houses, orected at the beginning of last century. Here, on June 5th, 1568, Duke Alva witnessed the execution of the counts Egmont and Horn from the Halle au Pain, or Maison du Roi as it is commonly termed, opposite the Hotel de Ville. In the rear of the Hotel de Ville , at the corner of the Rue du Chene and the Rue de l'Etuve, is the Man nek en fountain (PL 24), an object of veneration amongst the populace. The * Pa ssage , or G alerie St. Hub ert, an arcade near the Hotel de Ville, diverging from the Rue de la Madeleine, is a very favourite promenade. It is a handsome structure, 690 ft. long, 60 ft. high, and 25 ft. broad, and contains some of the most tempting shops in the city. The Rue de la Madeleine and its continuation, the Montagne de la Cour, which ascend hence, present a succession of attractive windows. 266 Route 48. BRUSSELS. The latter terminates in the Place Royale, adorned with the equestrian * Statue of Godfrey de Bouillon, in bronze, executed by Simonis in 1848. It is said to stand on the spot where the great crusader stood when he summoned a numerous assembly of knights to aid him in the liberation of the Holy Sepulchre. The fresco in the tympanum of the opposite church of St. Jacques sur Caudenberg (PI. 11), painted by Portaels in 1852, represents the Virgin as the consoler of the sorrowful. The adjoining * Park, which was a spot of great importance in Sept. 1830, having been successfully maintained by the Dutch against the Belgians who occupied the Place Royale, is the favourite prome- nade of the citizens. On the S. side rises the Royal Palace (PI. 33), on the N. side the Palais de la Nation (PI. 31), the vestibule of which contains 6 modern statues of Belgian princes. On the W. side of the park is the marble statue of the French general Belliard (p. 128), by Geefs. The ^Cathedral (Ste. Gudule, PI. 10), the finest church in Brussels , with its two truncated Gothic towers, should next be visited. The choir and transept are of the 13th, towers and nave of the 14th, aisles of the 15th, the large Chapelle du St. Sacre- ment of the 16th cent. The latter contains a * Monument in marble of Count F. de erode, who fell in a skirmish with the Dutch in 1830, executed by Geefs. The Stained Glass in the N. chapel, executed in 1546, re- presenting the Emp. Charles V. and his relations, is remarkably fine. That in other parts of the church, including the newest at the back of the high altar, is of little artistic value. The Pulpit is a curious specimen of wood-carving, executed by Verbriiggen in 1699, representing the expulsion from Paradise, with a number of different animals. The walk thus indicated would occupy about half a day, and embrace the most interesting points in Brussels. Those whose time permits may also visit the Picture Gallery [Musee, PI. 26), open to the public on Sundays, Mondays, and Thursdays, 10 — 3 o'clock; at other times admission 1 fr. It contains seven large pictures by Rubens (not his best works), but little else worthy of mention. The church of * Notre Dame de la Chapelle (PI. 7) merits a visit on account of its fine frescoes and oil- paintings by Eyckens (d. 1853). At the Porte de Hal (PI. 27), at the extremity of the same street (Rue Haute), is preserved a considerable collection (1 fr.) of Weapons and Antiquities. The Z oo lag ical Garden, 20 min. walk to the S. of the park, is extensive and well laid out, and may also be inspected by those who have leisure. From Brussels to Liege see Baedeker s Rhine, thence to Co- logne see R. 48 a. 267 49. From Paris to Strasbourg by Chalons and Nancy. By Express in lO 1 ^ — ll 1 ^ hrs., by ordinary trains in 15 — 16 ! |2 hrs. ; fares 56 fr. 20 c, 42 fr. 15 c, and 30 fr. 90 c. — Station in the Place de Strasbourg; special omnibuses, see p. 28. Soon after quitting the station the train crosses the canal of St. Denis and the high-road from Paris to Lille. Beyond the fortifications it skirts Pantin, where on March 14th, 1814, the most sanguinary encounters took place between French and Russian troops. Stat. Noisy -le-Sec. Several of the villages beyond the Foret de Bondy, especially Lagny and Damard, annually send a vast quantity of fruit to Paris , of an average value of 50,000 I. The line now reaches the Marne, and continues on or near the bank of the river as far as Vitry-le-Francois (p. 270). The valley of the Marne presents a succession of picturesque land- scapes. Near Chalifert the river is crossed and a tunnel entered. The Canal de Chalifert also penetrates the hill by means of an- other tunnel, navigated by small steamboats. The country is here remarkably pretty. Meaux (Sirene; Hotel Q rig nan ; Palais Royal) is a small town of great antiquity, on the Marne. (10,762 inhab.). Here in 1240 the council sat which sentenced the Emperor Frederick IJ. to ex- communication. Five centuries later Meaux was the episcopal residence of the celebrated Bossuet (d. 1704) , whose study and favourite walks are still pointed out. The Gothic Cathedral, erected at various periods between the 12th and 16th centuries, is situated on an eminence. It contains a monument to Bossuet of very inferior workmanship. The vaulted roof is remarkable for its loftiness, and the triforium merits inspection. The small town of Laferte-sous-Jouarre, birthplace of Madame de Pompadour, was in the 16th cent, a flourishing Protestant com- munity, whose liberty, however, was but of short duration. It is situated in a fertile and highly cultivated valley, and surrounded by numerous country-residences. To the left, the river is bounded by richly wooded hills. Chateau - Thierry (Hotel d'Angleterre) , on the Marne, is rendered conspicuous by the massive tower of the ancient Gothic church of St. Crispin, and the scanty ruins of a castle said to have been erected by Charles Martel in 720 for the young king Thierry. Lafontaine, the eminent fabulist, was born here, and a monument has been erected to his memory. The Russians suf- fered severe losses in ihe vicinity of the town in Feb., 1814. The champagne -growing district is now entered. Between Port-h-Binson and Damery, on a wooded eminence to the right, rises the Chateau de Boursault, a handsome Gothic edifice erected by Madame Cliquot, a name dear to the bon-vivant, for her son- in-law M. de Mortemart. 268 Route 49. RHEIMS. From Paris To the right and left rise rich, vine-clad hi] Is, between which, in a broad, fertile valley, the Marne winds. Epernay (Hotel de V Europe), the central point of the cham- pagne traffic, is picturesquely situated in the midst of the most prolific vineyards. The spacious cellars hewn in the chalk-rock are admirably suited for storing the wine , and contain millions of bottles. — The day-express allows passengers time for a hasty meal ('dejeuner-dtnatoire') at Epernay, 2^ fr- incl. wine; cham- pagne may be purchased by the glass. From Epernay to Rheims by a branch line in 50 min. ; fares 3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 50, and 1 fr. 25 c. Rheims (Lion cT Or, opp. the cathedral, R. 3, B. lija, D. 4, L. and A. l'J'2 fr. •, Arbre d'Or. — English Church Service), situated on the right bank of the Vesle and surrounded by vine-clad hills, the Civitas Re- morum of the Romans, is the ancient city (55,808 inhab.) where for many centuries the coronation of the monarchs of France was wont to be cele- brated. The most interesting monument which Rheims possesses of the late Roman period is the '''Porte de Mars, a triumphal arch consisting of three different archways. On the vaulting of the arch to the right (approached from the town) are represented Romulus and Remus with the wolf, be- tween Faustulus and Acca Laurentia (?). On the central arch were repre- sented the 12 months in different compartments, , live of which are totally destroyed. A few fragments of the beautifully fluted Corinthian columns still exist. The * Cathedral is a magnificent structure in the early Gothic style, founded in 1212, and completed by Robert de Coucy of Rheims at the com- mencement of the 14th cent. The Facade, with its three receding portals, adorned with numerous statues, is unfortunately in a dilapidated state, but is now with the rest of the church undergoing a careful restoration. The central portal represents the Coronation of the Virgin, that to the r. the Last Judgment, and to the L the Passion. Of the seven Towers five were des- troyed by fire in 1841. The two towers of the facade, which lost their spires on the same occasion , present a far more elegant aspect than is usually the case with unfinished Gothic towers , owing to the pointed character of the large windows, and the remarkably graceful turrets at the angles. Many of the numerous sculptures with which the exterior is richly decorated are considered the finest specimens in France of the early Gothic period. The church is cruciform with an unusually projecting transept , and consists of a nave and two aisles ; the choir is flanked with four aisles, of which the two external beyond the second arch form a series of chapels. The entire length of the edifice is 480 ft., breadth 98 ft., length of transept 163 ft., height 117 ft. The tracery of the triforium gal- lery and the windows is rich and beautiful ; generally, however, the in- terior of the church is far simpler than the exterior with the exception of the jambs of the door, which alone are adorned with 122 statues. On those of the principal entrance is represented the martyrdom of St. Nicaise. Most of the windows, including the magnificent rose-window between the towers of the facade, are filled with stained glass. To the r. in the nave is situated the ancient Sarcophagus of Jovinus, at a very remote period prefect of Rheims, removed to its present position in 1790 from the Gothic church of St. Nicaise , which was at that time destroyed. It consists of a single, solid block of white marble, 9 ft. long and 5 ft. in thickness. The bas-relief which adorns it represents a lion- hunt, beautifully executed. The Clock with moveable figures in the N. transept is said to be the oldest existing piece of mechanism of this description. Rheims was probably selected for the coronation of the monarchs of to Strasbourg. CHALONS. 49. Route. 269 France, because here the Sainte Ampoule, or sacred oil-vessel, was pre- served, which is said to have been brought down from heaven by a dove on the occasion of the baptism of Clovis by St. Remi. Louis VII. and his son Philip Augustus elevated the archbishops to the rank of dukes, and confirmed their often disputed privilege of performing the coronation cere- mony. Here in 1429 Charles VII. was crowned, after he had been con- ducted to Rheims by the intrepid Joan of Arc, who during the ceremony stood beside him, the victorious banner in her hand. With the exception of Henry II. who was crowned at Chartres, Napoleon I., crowned at Paris, and Louis XVIII. , Louis Philippe, and Napoleon III., on whom the cere- mony was never performed, all the monarchs of France since 1173 have been crowned at Rheims by the archbishop as primate of the entire king- dom. Of all the costly objects employed on these occasions none have escaped the Vandalism of the Revolution with the exception of the mas- sive golden goblet of St. Remi, which has been in the possession of the cathedral for six centuries. From Rheims to Tergnier railway via Laon, in connection with the Paris-Namur line (p. 259), in 2iJ 2 hrs. fares 8 fr. 60, 6 fr. 40, 4 fr. 30 c. The S. tower , which contains a huge bell (12 tons) cast in 1750, should be ascended, as it affords an admirable survey of the rich decora- tions and architectural beauties of the exterior of the church. The Archiepiscopal Palace, adjoining the cathedral on the S. side, contains a gorgeously decorated vestibule and a beautiful chapel. Here the sovereigns of France abode during the coronation festivities, and in 1429 the Maid of Orleans also. *St. Remi, founded in 1044, is the most ancient church in Rheims, and in its plan somewhat resembles the cathedral. The interior was originally Romanesque, the choir is a beautiful specimen of Gothic, the S. transept Flamboyant. The five semicircular chapels which flank the choir are separated from it by a graceful colonnade. The exterior displays a few indications of early Gothic } the two Romanesque towers of the facade are surmounted by lofty, pointed spires. The revolution has left the church entirely destitute of its former costly and magnificent contents, save the 12 statues representing the 6 temporal and 6 spiritual peers of France, and the group of the tomb of St. Remi. The Sainte Ampoule (see above) was formerly kept in the church of St. Remi. The abbot, mounted on a white palfrey, conveyed this precious vessel, filled with the sacred oil, to the cathedral on the coronation-day, whilst a number of knights were detained at St. Remi as pledges for the safe return of the holy man. The Sainte Ampoule was destroyed during the devastation of the abbey in 1793 ^ a fragment, however, is said to have been preserved, and was afterwards emploved at the coronation of Char- les X. in 1826. The handsome Ildtel de Ville in the Renaissance style was erected under Louis XIII. , an equestrian figure of whom is seen in the bas-relief above the entrance. The best-built street in Rheims leads from the Hotel de Ville to the Place Royale, adorned with a statue of Louis XV. The houses surrounding the square are flanked with arcades of the Doric order. The tasteful fountain in the Place Coudinot was erected to the memory of a canon of that name who was instrumental in supplying the town with water. Over the door of the Hotel de la Maison rouge is the following in- scription: '-Van 1429, au sacre de Charles VII., dans cette hotellerie, alors nomme'e VAne Rouge, le pere et la mere de Jeanne d' Arc ont He" logts et de"- f rape's par le conseil de la ville.' 1 Outside the Porte Neuve, to the S. of the station, is a monument to Colbert , born at Rheims in 1609 , general controller of finance under Louis XIV., and a distinguished political economist. — Returning thence into the town, the traveller reaches the Place Drouot, adorned with a monument to General Drouot, b. at Rheims in 1765, d. 1844. Beyond Epernay the country becomes flatter. The first station of importance is Ch&lons-sur-Marne (Cloche dCOr; Hotel de la 270 Route 49. BAR-LE-DUC. From Paris Mere-Dieu, R. 2, B. D. 4, L. and A. l*/ 4 fr.) ; the capital of the Department of the Marne, with a population of 16,675, and one of the principal depots of champagne. The extensive buildings to the right of the station are the champagne manu- factory of M. Jacquesson. — The Cathedral, a conspicuous object in the town , was almost entirely re-erected after a conflagration in 1220; the portal was erected under Louis XIII. Notre Dame, on the other side of the town , a fine example of the transition from the Romanesque to the Gothic , dates from 1157. Its four towers, partly in the Romanesque, partly in the Gothic style, are more massive than those of the cathedral , but by no means devoid of beauty. In the 'Catalaunian region' near Chalons-sur-Marne , in 471, the united Roman, West Gothic, and Frankish armies defeated the advancing Huns in a celebrated battle. This forms the subject of a remarkably fine picture by Kaulbach in the Museum at Berlin. Near Chalons (by a branch line in 50 min.) is situated the camp of Le Mourmelon, formerly used for the annual manoeuvres of the army which took place in autumn. The train next traverses a far poorer district. To the left flows the Marne winding through picturesque meadows, and fringed with trees. Vitry-le-Francois, with its handsome Renaissance church, surrounded by vineyards and fruit-trees, is indebted to Francis I. for its entire re-construction, after it had been devastated by the Emperor Charles V. — Here the Marne is crossed for the last time and .the course of the Rhine-Marne Canal followed. The next station worthy of mention is Bar-le-Duc [Hotel de Metz et da Commerce ; Cygne, moderate), a picturesque town on the Ornain, once the capital of the ancient Duche de Bar, now of the Department of the Meuse (population 14,922). The church of St. Pierre in the Haute Ville contains a well-executed monument in marble to the memory of the Due Rene' de Chalons, Prince of Orange, who fell in 1544 at the siege of St. Dizier. The busy Ville Basse contains monuments of the marshals Oudinot and Excelmans, both natives of Bar-le-Duc. After traversing a somewhat monotonous district, the train descends into the valley of the Meuse, here an insignificant stream which it crosses twice. Commercy possesses a chateau of considerable size, on the bank of the Meuse , once the residence of Cardinal Francis Paul de Retz (d. 1679), who wrote his memoirs here. It was subsequently occupied by Stanislaus Lesczinski , ex-king of Po- land, in 1744, and is now employed as barracks. to Strasbourg. TOLL di). Route. 271 Toul ( Hotel de V Europe), the Tullum Leucorum of the Romans, a fortress situated on the Moselle at some distance to the right of the line, has for 1200 years been the seat of a bishop, and is one of the most ancient towns of Lorraine (7687 inhab.). On Sept. 24th, 1870, the town was taken by the Prussians after a siege of twelve days. The beautiful Gothic towers of the Cathedral are conspicuous ; it also possesses an admirable facade dating from 1340 — 1389. Another Gothic tow'er which is also visible belongs to the abbey church of St. Gengoult. The Rhine-Marne Canal and Moselle here flow side by side and are crossed at Fontenoy , beyond which one of the most picturesque and, in an engineering point of view, remarkable points of the whole line is reached. The valley of the Moselle here contracts, the banks become more precipitous, and vineyards begin to appear on the sunny heights. Liverdun, the Livodunum of the Romans, is picturesquely situated on an eminence, with the ruins of a castle destroyed in 1467. For some dis ance the railway, high-road, river, and canal are parallel to each other; the latter penetrates the hill, on which Liverdun lies, by means of a tunnel. Here, within a very short distance of each other, are two railway-bridges, a canal-bridge, a lock, a harbour, a canal-tunnel, and railway-bridges over canal and road, works which have cost upwards of 140,000 I. At Frouard the Meurthe unites with the Moselle. The town is on the right, the railway-station on the left bank of the river. The line to Metz diverges here. Nancy (Hotels : : de Paris; ; de r E u r o p e ; de France; du Commerce; *d 1 Angleterre, and de Metz, both near the railway- stations. — Cafes: Stanislas; de r Op era; de la Comedie, etc., all in the Place Stanislas), formerly the capital of Lorraine and seat of the dukes, of whom Stanislaus Lesczinski, exking of Poland, was the last, is chiefly indebted for its prosperous aspect to his predecessor Leopold (d. 1729), father of the Ger- man emperor Francis I. It is now the principal town of the Department of the Meurthe, on which river it is situated, and has a population of 49,905. Nancy is one of the best-built towns in France, and possesses many handsome edifices. The vineyards by which it is surrounded contribute greatly to the beauty of the situation. — It contains an Ecole Forestfere, or nursery for forest- trees, the only establishment of the kind in France. The town is entered by the Porte Stanislas, one of the seven handsome gates of Nancy, leading to the Place Dombasle, where a statue by David of the eminent agriculturist of that name stands. The first street which diverges from the Rue Stanislas to the left leads to the Cours Leopold , a handsome square adorned with a *Statue of Marshal Drouot, in bronze , by David. The edestal 272 Route 49. NANCY. From Paris is decorated with reliefs, and inscribed with the names of battles at which the marshal (a native of Nancy) was present. Returning to the Rue Stanislas the traveller follows this street and will soon reach the *Place Stanislas, the finest point in the town. It is adorned with the Statue of Stanislaus (d. 1766), erected by the three departments (Meurthe, Meuse, Vosges) which formerly constituted the Duchy of Lorraine. The statue looks towards the Triumphal Arch which Stanislaus erected in honour of Louis XV. The Place is surrounded by five handsome edilices, the Hotel de Ville, the theatre, the episcopal palace (Eveche), and two private residences. The Hotel de Ville contains a small ^'collection of pictures. 1st Room (in a small box is preserved a lock of Napoleon's hair, his star of the Legion of Honour, and a sabre worn by him in Egypt): 225. Delacroix, Battle of Nancy, Jan. 5th, 1477, fought by Charles le Temeraire, Duke of Burgundy, against Duke Rene of Lorraine, in which the former fell; 184. Horace Vernet, Portrait of General Drouot; 187. Vouet, Nymphs; 188. Vouet, Cupids playing with the arms of ^Eneas ; 189. Ziegler, St. George and the dragon. 2nd Room: 14. Guido Reni, Cleopatra; 16. Copy of the celebrated 'Marriage of Cana' of Paul Veronese in the Louvre (p. 66); 45. De Craeyer , The pestilence at Milan; 46. Delmont , The Resurrection, covering the greater portion of the wall. — 3rd Room: 15. Leonardo da Vinci, Head of Christ ; 75. Teniers, Interior of a farm; 76. Teniers, Landscape; 163. A landscape by 6 Claude Lorrain (properly Claude Gelee, d. 1652), the most celebrated of French landscape-painters, born at Nancy in 1600; 170. Mignard, Virgin and Child. At the back of the Hotel de Ville, in the Rue d' 'Alliance (so called from the French and Austrian alliance of 1756 against Prussia), is the Prefecture. Passing through the Triumphal Arch, to the left, the visitor reaches the Place Carriere, another handsome square planted with trees, on the farther side of which is the former palace of King Stanislaus, afterwards the residence of the commander of the 3rd corps of the French army. On either side, the Tribunal de Commerce and the Cour de Cassation. The Franciscan Eglise de Cordeliers, at the back of the palace, contains (1. side) the tomb of the talented painter and engraver Jacques Callot , and , in the richly decorated * Chapelle Ronde, burial-place of the Dukes of Lorraine , a number of interesting monuments from the 12th to the 18th cent. During the first revolution the coffins were conveyed to the public cemetery, and this chapel converted into a magazine. In 1822 it was restored at the expense of France and Austria. Mass . is still performed here by an almoner of the Lorraine-Hapsburg family. — Duke to Strasbourg . 49. LUNEVILLE. 49. Route. 273 Francis of Lorraine by his marriage with the Archduchess Maria Theresa (1736), heiress of the lands of Hapsburg, became the founder of the present imperial house of Austria. The contiguous Palais Ducal, formerly a residence of the dukes, which contained the Musee Lorrain , a collection of relics from the Lorraine period, was burned down in Aug., 1871. It was erected by Duke Rene IT. , conqueror of Charles le Te- meraire , and boasted of a fine late Gothic portal with an equestrian statue of Duke Leopold II. towards the Grand'Rue. In the new part of the town, to the right of the Place Sta- nislas (when approached from the station) rises the Cathedral, in the Jesuitical style, completed in 1742, containing nothing to interest the traveller save some handsome altars in marble. The Pepinfere, extensive grounds with fine avenues, entered from the Place Stanislas and the. Place Carriere, affords a pleasant promenade; military music at 4 p. m. during the season. In the suburb of St. Pierre is the Eglise de Bon Secours, where Stanislaus (d. 1766) and his consort are interred. After his abdication as king of Poland (1735), he continued to be reigning duke of Lorraine and P>ar until his death , when the duchy fell to the crown of France. In 1814, and again in 1815, the three allied monarchs (Prussia, Austria, Russia) had their head-quarters at Nancy, where the scheme of a 'Holy Alliance 1 is said to have been first originated. The railway-station of Nancy occupies a piece of marshy ground where, after the battle of Nancy, the body of the Duke of Bur- gundy was found. In a burial-ground in the vicinity 4000 of the duke's troops were interred , and the commemorative Croix de Bourgogne erected by the victorious Duke Rene (d. 1508), bearing the following inscription : En Tan de Tincarnation Et en bataille ici transcy Mil quatre cent septante six On croix fut mise pour memoire Veille de FApparition Rene Due de Loraine me(r)cy Fut le Due de Bourgogne occis Rendant a Dieu pour la victoire. Quitting Nancy, the train crosses the Meurthe and the Rhine- 8 Marne Canal. Varangeville and St. Nicolas are two small towns connected by a bridge over the Meurthe. The church of the former dates from the 15th cent., that of the latter from 1494—1544. Luneville (15,528 inhab.), at the confluence of the Meurthe and Vezouse , was the birthplace of Francis I. of Austria, son of Leopold Duke of Lorraine , and founder of the present imperial house. In a house in the Rue d'AUemagne the peace of Luneville , between France and Austria, was signed. Feb. 9th, 1801. Stat. Embermenii is the French frontier stat. (passports and Baedeker. Paris. 3rd Edition. 18 274 Route 49. SAVERNE. custom house formalities for those entering France), Avricourt that of Germany. Sarrebourg (*H6tel du Sauvage), on the Sarre, which here becomes navigable , is not to be confounded with Saarburg near Treves. The place was regarded as an important military point by the French previous to the war of 1870, and was in conse- quence provided with extensive provision magazines. The rich plains of Lorraine are now quitted , and a spur of the Vosges Mts. is penetrated by the tunnel of Archviiller, M. in length, through which the Rhine-Marne Canal also passes. The train enters the valley of the Zorn. Opposite to Lutzelbourg , the last station in the Department of the Meurthe, rise the picturesque ruins of an ancient fortress. Saverne (*Soleil) , a small town with a population of 6400. The handsome Palace, erected in 1666 by a Bishop of Strasbourg, was afterwards occupied by Cardinal de Rohan (d. 1802), whose fatal influence on the destinies of the court of Louis XYI. is well known. By an imperial decree of 1852 the edifice was appro- priated to the use of widows and daughters of deserving officials. Above the town rises the ancient castle of Greifenstein . On the opposite side of the valley , the extensive and picturesque ruins of *Haut-Barr , scarcely distinguishable from the grotesquely shaped rocks on which it stands. Between Saverne and Strasbourg the country is uninteresting. 50. Strasbourg. Hotels. :; Ville de Paris (PI. a), a handsome new building, R. from 3 fr., L. 1 fr., B. V\ 2 fr., D. exc. W. 3 fr., A. 1 fr. ; Mais on Rouge (PI. b) } Hotel d 1 A nglcterre near the stat., well spoken of. Vignette (PL e, Grand'Rue 119); Hotel de, France, Jeuue Place St/Pierre; S t a d t Lyon; S t a d t Wien; B a d i s c h e r H o f. Cafes. Cafe du Broglie, Cafe du Globe, both in the Broglie; Cafe d e la Mesange, Meisenstrasse \ Cafe de la Lanterne, near the Gewerbelaube. Public Gardens. Jardin Lips and Jardin Kam merer, both out- side the Porte des Juifs : music and other entertainments in the evening 2 or 3 times a week. The Orangerie, a well-kept garden belonging to the town, situated in the Ruprechtsau, about 3 M. distant, affords an agreeable promenade. Cabs or Gitadines 75 cent, per drive, from the Strasbourg station to the Rhine bridge 1 fr. 25 c. Railway Station on the N.W. side of the town for the Paris, Bale, Mayence, and Kehl lines ; on the last-named line there is also a station at the Austerlitz Gate. Post-office in the Hotel du Commerce, Gutenbergplatz. Pates de foie gras at Henry's, Rue du Dome ; Doyen, Rue du Dome ; M ii 1 1 e r , Judengasse ; prices from 5 to 40 fr. according to size. The geese's livers not unfrequently attain a weight of 2—3 lbs. each. Attractions. Travellers whose time is limited should ascend the. tower of the Cathedral (see below), inspect the cathedral itself, and visit the church of St. Thomas (p. 277). English Church Service in the Hotel de Paris. STRESS iURC. 1: is. ooo t—n. ^^^^^rr^^Sf 1 . Akadenue (jia~iM.,natia-^.,iwit}i.VorleJiffiiJ fr.2 2 . Bahxhot 3- Baton . Garten Dentinal er . i . Gutenberg 5. Kteber 6. Lczai Marnesia 7 . Oe£caupriss 8, Gjnautsxtcrn B.3 F.fr.2. D.'k C*. D. 2. B.6. . E.3. E. 6. iOJustzzpaZast C.2.3. Kirehen ll.^re^im AJ>. Yl.Dom (Minster) E,3. 13 . Johannes B.4>. l't-Zzofc^ D.5. Vo.Xagdalenai F.3. lG.iTeaeSrc^ D3, n.Jhcolmis E.5. 18. Peter's (cUtereJ B.5. 19. Peters tfwigcre I C.3. Zd.Reformirte D.5. t\.Synagoge D.4, 22 -Tnamas 1)5. 23, Vhsere l.Prauen- S&t E.4. l^.KffrnhaJLe B.6. IbJfarkthaUe C.3. 27.3fckr<> . D5 28JW E.4-. 29JVa/eeftk. Yorlesichfen > ZSMsdtdov. Faadtat EE. 5. 36. WaisenhazLs 37 Zollamt E.3. B.3.4, SL.Stadt Paris ^.EnglischerBof Q.Rothes Sous . dJteistock rtel de France i.StadtWien Schtrarzer Bar h. Badischer Eof C.D3. B* Di- CS C.3 BC.3 F.4- F.4- STRASBOURG 50. Route. 275 Strasbourg (Ger. Strassfrurg), the Argentoraturn of the Romans, formerly capital of Lower Alsace and one of the most important towns on the Rhine, now the capital of the German province of Alsace and German Lorraine , and head- quarters of the 15th German 'Armee-Corps', lies on the 111 , about 2y 2 M. from the Rhine with which it is connected by a small and a large canal. | On the 30th of Sept., 1681, in a time of peace, Strasbourg was seized by Louis XIV. , and France was confirmed in the pos- session of the city by the peace of Ryswyk in 1697, and re- I tained it until it was restored to the German Empire by the Peace of Frankfurt on May 10th, 1871. Notwithstanding its connection with France for nearly two centuries , the character and language of the inhabitants , as well as the aspect of the city, are still essentially German. Pop. 84,000, of whom nearly one half are Protestants. The Emperor Maximilian I., in writing of Strasbourg, describes it as the strong bulwark of the holy Roman kingdom, and praises it highly for the good old German honesty, constancy, and bravery of its inhabitants. The fortifications were greatly enlarged by the i French , so that it was one of the strongest fortresses and the ! third largest arsenal in France. The town offered the most de- termined and heroic resistance to the German army during the I war of 1870. The siege began on Aug. 11th, and the bom- bardment on the 18th ; the latter was continued with little in- i termission until the capitulation of the town on Sept. 27th. The j pentagonal Citadel, constructed by Vauban in 1682 — 84, situated on the E. side of the town towards the Rhine, was converted into a heap of ruins (a visit to it uninteresting, as the restoration ! has now begun; tickets of admission, 1 Thlr. , may be procured at the office of the commandant). The other fortifications, the Sternthor on the N. and the Weissenthurmthor (Porte Nationale) i on the W. were also almost entirely destroyed. The quarters of the town adjoining these suffered severely ; in the other quarters the public buildings were principally damaged. The * Cathedral (PI. 1) (always open except from 12 to 2 o'clock") was first founded by Clovis in 510, but having been J destroyed by lightning in 1007, the foundation of the present !j edifice was laid by Bishop Werner of Hapsburg in 1015 , and |i! the interior completed in 1275. In 1277 the erection of the I * Facade was commenced by Erwin of Steinbach and his daughter j| Sabina, to the latter of whom the church is indebted for the 1 magnificent decorations of the *Portal. Above it, in niches, are j the equestrian statues of Clovis, Dagobert, Rudolph of Hapsburg, I and (since 1823) Louis XIV. The sculptures above the portal j belong chiefly to the 13th and 14th centuries. The upper part I of the spire was erected by Johann Hiiltz of Cologne at the | commencement of the 15th cent, in the fantasticj and florid 18* I 276 Route 50. STRASBOURG. Cathedral. modern Gothic style, and Anally completed in 1439. The upper part of the S. tower is entirely wanting. Few cathedrals offer so good an opportunity for tracing the progress of the Gothic style from the time when it took its origin from the modern Roman- esque style (choir, crypt, and part of transept) to its highest and purest perfection (the body of the church completed in 1275, and the facade of 1277 — 1339), and to its decline (the platform between the towers of 1365, and the top of the spire of 1439). The entire length of the edifice is 175 yds., and the breadth 65 yds.; the nave is 101 ft. in height, and 45 ft. in breadth. Some of the stained-glass windows are admirably executed; the Magi with the Virgin Mary in the north aisle are modern. The pillars and columns of the interior are elegant and are embel- lished with statues , but on the whole the church is somewhat destitute of ornament. The Font in the N. transept dates from 1453, and the *Pulpit, richly decorated with sculpture, from 1486. The Chapel of St. John (to the 1. by the choir) contains a monu- ment to Bishop Conrad of Llchtenberg , under whose auspices the construction of the facade began. The Chapel of St. Mary (S. aisle) contains a sculpture representing the interment of the Virgin, executed in 1480. The celebrated astronomical *0£ocfc, constructed by Schwilgue in 1838 — 1842, in the S. transept, is a highly curious and ingen- ious piece of workmanship. Some paintings and portions of the old clock have been used in the erection of the new. The globe beneath shows the course of the stars, behind it is a per- petcral almanac, on the 1. a piece of mechanism exhibiting ecclesiastical reckoning of time, and on the r. the geocentric opposition and conjunction of the sun and moon \ above it is a dial determining the mean time, and still higher is shown the course of the moon through the heavens. The exterior of the clock attracts spectators at all times, but especially at noon. On the first gallery an angel strikes the quarters on a bell which he holds in his hand ; higher up is a skeleton, representing Time, which strikes the hour of 12, and round it are figures which strike the quarters and represent man's progress through the various stages of boyhood, youth, manhood, and old age. Under the first gallery the symbolic deity of each day of the week steps out of a niche, Apollo on Sunday, Diana on Mon- day, and so on. In the highest niche the 12 apostles move round a figure of the Saviour, bowing as they pass. On the highest pinnacle of the side- tower is perched a cock which flaps its wings, stretches its neck, and crows, awakening the echoes of the remotest nooks of the cathedral. Two old inscriptions on a pillar near the clock commemorate the zeal and piety of Johann Geiler of Kaisersberg (d. 1510), one of the most learned men and undaunted preachers of his time. On the Romanesque S. *Portal were erected, in 1840, statues of the great architect Erwin and his talented daughter Sabina. The sculpturing on this portal by the latter lias been skilfully renovated, and deserves the minutest inspection. Above the doors are represented the death, interment, resurrection, and coronation of the Virgin, and on the middle pillar the Saviour and king Cathedral-Tower. STRASBOURG. 50. Route. 277 Solomon. Beneath is Solomon's Judgment, and on the r. and I. figures emblematical of Christianity and Judaism. There are also several statues by Sabina on pillars in the S. aisle next to the transept. On the N. side is the Chapel of St. Laurentius with its beau- tiful gateway of the loth cent., adorned with restored sculptures of the martyrdom of the saints. The *Cathedral-Tower (493 ft.) rises in front of the structure to such a height that the spectator almost feels dizzy as his eye attempts to reach the lofty summit. Near the r. Portal, round the corner, is a door leading to a staircase of easy ascent. A few steps up, the custodian dwells, from whom a ticket (15 cent.) must be procured. The visitor then ascends 330 steps to the platform, 245 ft. above the street, which commands a fine view of the old-fashioned town, with its planted ramparts and prome- nades. To the 1. is seen the Black' Forest from Baden to the Blauen; on. the W. and N. the entire chain of the Vosges, on the S. the insulated Kaiscrstuhl, rising from the plain, and beyond it in the extreme distance the magnificent chain of the Jura. The services of the door-keeper are unnecessary in as- cending to the platform, though a fee is generally expected. From the platform another staircase leads to the summit of the spire, the so-called ' Lantern . The entrance to it is closed by an iron grating, which is not opened to the visitor without a special permission from the mayor. The massive cross on the summit was bent by a cannon ball during the siege of 1870, but has since been restored. The ancient residence of the Bishops, opposite the S. Portal of the Cathedral, with terrace facing the 111, was pur- chased by the town at the period of the Revolution, and pre- sented in 1806 to Napoleon. From 1814 — 1848 it served as a royal residence, and in 1853 was presented to Napoleon 111. The diligence-office is now established here. From the cathedral the attention of the traveller is next directed to the Church of St. Thomas. His way leads across the Place Gutenberg, where a handsome bronze Statue was erected in 1840 to the memory of the great printer, who conducted his first experiments in the newly-discovered art at Strasbourg in 1436. The four bas-reliefs are emblematical of the power and blessing of the invention of printing in the four quarters of the globe, and comprise likenesses of many celebrated men. The *Church of St. Thomas (PI. 10; the sacristan lives at the back of the choir) was founded in 1031; the choir, of plain Gothic construction, was commenced in 1270, and the body of the church with its five aisles was erected in the Gothic style in 1313 — 1330. It is now appropriated to the use of a Protes- 278 Route 50. STRASBOURG. Town Hall. taut congregation. The choir, where the high-altar formerly stood, contains a magnificent monument in marble, erected by Louis XV. to Marshal Saxe; it is the work of the sculptor Pigalle, and the result of twenty years' labour. The marshal is represented descending into the tomb held open to receive him by Death, while a beautiful female figure personifying France, strives to detain him; at the side Hercules is represented in a mournful attitude leaning upon his club ; on the L side are the Austrian eagle, the Dutch lion, and the English leopard, with broken flags beneath them, commemorating the victories gained by the mar- shal over the three united powers in the Flemish wars. The whole is an allegory in accordance with the questionable taste of the age, but as a work of art it is masterly and original. The church also contains busts and monuments of celebrated professors of the University of Strasbourg, among others of Schopflin, Koch, and Oberlin, brother of the well-known pastor of that name. In a side-chapel may be seen two mummies, found in 1802, and said to be the bodies of a Count of Nassau-Saarbriicken and his daughter, who probably died in the 16th cent. The Neukirche (PL 11), erected in the 13th cent., as well as the Municipal Library (PL 15), which contained valuable old works and MSS., were entirely burned down during the bombardment, on Aug. 20th 1870. The Broglie, one of the busiest squares in the town, formerly the horse-market, situated near the cathedral to the N.W., was founded in 1740 by Marshal Broglie, and named after him. The Theatre (PL 37) on the N.E. side of the square, with its colonnade, was burned down, with the exception of the outer walls, on Sept. 10th, 1870. Parade here daily at noon 5 military music twice weekly in the evening. Opposite the theatre on the r. are the residences of the prefect of the town and the general of the troops garrisoned here. The Statue (PL 38) of the Marquis de Lezay-xMarnesia, by Grass, erected in 1857, was considerably damaged during the bombardment of 1870. Farther on is the Town Hall (PL 26, entrance from the Rue Br u lee) ; the picture-gallery formerly established here was removed during the siege of 1870 to the residence of the commandant in the Kleberplatz, where it was unfortunately destroyed. The Rue Brulee, which runs in a S.E. direction parallel with the Broglie, has received its appellation from the story, that 2000 Jews, who refused to be baptised, were burned, Feb. 14th, 1349, on the spot where the Hotel de la Prefecture now stands. The University, inaugurated in 1621, once numbered Goethe among its students; it was here that the great poet and scholar completed his law studies, and took the degree of doctor in 1772. Academy. STRASBOURG. 50. Route. 279 It is now converted into an Academy, but will probably soon be transformed into a German university. The Museum of Natural History, a collection of more than ordinary value and interest, deserves a visit. It is open to the public on Thurs. from 2 to 4, and on Sund. from 10 to 12; at other times adm. may be pro- cured for a fee of 1 fr. In the Place d'Armes a bronze Statue has been erected to the memory of General Kleber, at the foot of which reclines an Egyptian sphynx; on the sides are two reliefs. On the N. side of the Place is the residence of the commandant, destroyed during the siege of 1870. The Kehl railway-station is about 4 M. distant from Strasbourg, and connected with it by a junction line lately completed. In the immediate vicinity of the Porte d'Austerlitz are the spacious Artillery Barracks (St. Nicholas), and near them the Arsenal de Construction, formerly one of the largest depots of ammunition in France. A few minutes after leaving the town by this gate, the tra- veller passes the Cemetery, and catches a glimpse of the green ramparts of the Citadel, constructed by Vauban in 1682 — 1684, which lies to the 1. of the road. On the other side of the bridge over a branch of the Rhine stands a Monument erected by Na- poleon to the memory of General Desaix, who fell in the battle of Marengo in 1800. Junction-line to Kehl see p. 274; fares 1 fr., 70, and 50 c. 51. From Paris to Mannheim or Coblenz (Bingen). Express to Forbach in 11, ordinary trains in 14 hrs. ; fares to For- bach 51 fr. 30 c., 38 fr. 45 c., 28 fr. 20 c. First-class tickets only issued for the express trains. From Forbach to Mannheim in 4^4 hrs. \ fares 6 fl. 36 kr., 4 11. 9 kr., 2 fl. 51 kr. The railway-station for Strasbourg and Metz is at the N. extremity of the Boulevart de Strasbourg (PI., red 10). Special omnibuses see p. 28. a. From Paris to Metz. Express in 8, ordinary trains in 12 l k hrs. ; fares 39 fr. 65, 29 fr. 80, 21 fr. 25 c. From Paris to Frouard see R. 49. At Frouard the carriages for Metz are detached from the train to Nancy and Strasbourg, cross the canal and the Moselle near the station, and follow the pleasant and populous valley of the latter, which here becomes navigable and is enclosed between gently sloping banks. Pont-a-Mousson, with the ruined fortress Mousson (fine view) on an eminence, its church (St. Martin) with two towers, and its bridge over the Moselle, presents a pleasing picture. Cardinal (liarles of Lorraine founded a university here in 1573. the chairs 280 Route 51. METZ. From Paris in which were occupied by Jesuits. Before the cession of Lor- raine to the French (1746) the town with its small territory was under the jurisdiction of a German Margrave. Pagny has been the French Frontier stat. since 1871 ; exa- mination of passports and custom-house formalities for those entering France. On an eminence to the 1. are the ruins of the chateau of Preny, once the property of the Dukes of Lorraine, Excellent wine is produced here. At stat. Noveant, the German frontier stat. (custom-house ; no passport required), a suspension-bridge crosses the Moselle. On the r. bank of the river the extensive remains of a Roman *Aqueduct, constructed by Drusus, visible from a considerable distance, are perceived at intervals. It was 60 ft. in height and 3650 ft. in length, and conducted water from the hills of the r. bank to Divodurum, the modern Metz. At J ouy-aux- Arches 11 arches are still well preserved, and at Ars (or rather Arches-sur- Moselle), 7 others, termed by the peasantry l Pont du Diable\ rise close to the railway. The bridge by whic i the train crosses the Moselle affords a good final survey of this imposing Roman structure (comp. p. 281). The train then reaches Metz, which lies so buried amidst its green ramparts, that little of the town is perceived from the railway. b. Metz. Hotels. Grand Hotel de Metz (PI. a), R. 2—3, B. P\ h D. inc. W. 4, L. and A. V\ 4 fr. ; *Hotel de PEurope (PI. b), R. and L. 3, D. 4, A. 1 fr. ; both in the Rue des Clercs. : H6tel de Paris (PI. c), adjoining the Terrace, of the second class. Hotel du Nord (PI. d) ; Hotel du Commerce (PI. e) } Hotel du Porte E n s e i g n e (PI. f J. — Cafe Pa risien, Place d£ la Comedies Cafe du Grand Balcon, and Cafe du Heaume, both in the Esplanade near the station •, Cafe" Francais and Cafe" Fabert, in the Place Napoleon, near the cathedral. Metz (popul. 56,888), on the Moselle, once the capital of the kingdom of Austrasia, afterwards a town of the German Empire, ceded in 1556 to France together with Toul and Verdun, subse- quently one of the most important military stations in "France, has again been annexed to the German Empire since the war of 1870 — 71. It is one of ti e strongest fortresses in Europe, and never succumbed to an enemy until it surrendered to the Prussians on Oct. 7th, 1870. The river flows through the town in several branches, thus forming a number of islands. The most important edifice is the ^Cathedral (Py. 7), a Gothic structure with numerous -flying buttresses. The nave was completed in 1332, the choir in 1519, and the portal added in 1764. At the altar adjoining the sacristy is the kneeling figure of the architect, Pierre Perrat (d. 1400). All the ancient monu- ments and pictures were destroyed during the revolution, with the exception of a few venerable frescoes on the pillars, recently to Mannheim. M ETZ 51. Route. 281 freed from their coating of white waslv. The choir contains some fine stained glass, dating principally from 1523, besides several windows of modern workmanship. The tower is 387 ft. in height; 110 steps ascend to the first (105 to the large bell La Muette), 78 more to the highest ter- Tace. The view from the summit amply repays the ascent, and embraces the extremely fertile ''Pays Messin, the town, the fortifications, and the course of the Moselle. The open halls of the Marc he Convert (PI. 23), opposite the W. portal, are occupied by vendors of fruit, vegetables, and flowers, and afford a striking proof of the luxuriant fertility of the environs. Pine-apples of considerable size, as well as fine specimens of other fruits, are frequently observed. — It may perhaps also interest the traveller to visit the extensive Abattoir, or slaughter-house, situated outside the Porte Chambiere. In the Place Napole'on, which adjoins the W. side of the cathedral, rises the Statue of Marshal Fabert (d. 1662), a contemporary of Turenne. The inscription records a declaration by the marshal of his willingness to sacrifice his life and pro- perty in the service of his king. The Library (PI. 2), near the cathedral, contains numerous Roman antiquities and a small collection of pictures. The Arsenal (PI. 1) contains specimens of modern, as well as ancient weapons, tastefully arranged, and (in the court) numerous cannons. Under a roof to the 1. of the entrance is a long cannon carried off by the French with 189 others, in 1799, from the fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, where it was known by the name of Vogel Greiff, having been constructed by order of the Elector of Treves, Richard von Greiffenclau. It is 16 ft. in length, and weighs 12^2 tons. The high road to Germany issues from the Porte des A I te- rn and s and the Fort Belle Croix. Until recently, the gate bore bullet-marks dating from the unsuccessful siege of the town by the Emperor Charles V. The contiguous church of St. Eucaire (St. Eucharius) (PI. 5) is a taste ful structure of the 12th cent., especially interesting to the connoisseur of architecture. Interior destitute of ornament. The S. side of the town is bounded by the Esplanade, with its beautiful walks and imposing barracks. Military music here in the evening, three times weekly. A bronze-monument was erected here in 1855 to Marshal Ney (born at Metz, shot at Paris in 1815; cOmp. p. 147). On the Esplanade rises the Palais de Justice (PL 25), an extensive building erected during the last century. To theW. of Metz, on the road to Verdun, are situated the memorable battle-fields of Aug. 16th and 18th, 1870. They may best be visited as follows (in 9—10 hrs., two-horse carr. about 30 fr.j. From Metz up the valley of the Moselle (on the hill to the r. rises Fori St. Quentin) to Jouy- 282 Route 51. SAARRRUCKEN. From Paris mix-Arches, where considerable remains of a Roman ^Aqueduct constructed by Drusus may be inspected. Eleven arches are still standing on this bank, and seven near Ars-sur- Moselle on the opposite bank of the river, (comp. p. 280). Then to Corny, and across the Moselle by the elegant suspension-bridge to Noveant, and up the defile opening above the village to Gorze. From this point the direct descent to the r. to Rezonville is recom- mended, where the traveller reaches the S. branch of the road to Verdun, which diverges at Gravelotte (Hotel du Cheval Blanc, convenient place to dine), situated to the r. (E.). To the 1. (W.) lie Vionville and Mars-la-Tovr . From Gravelotte the traveller should proceed N., past the ruined house Malmaisori (where the road to the r. is to be followed), to Verneville and Ste. Marie-aux- Che nes , whence Metz may be regained via St. Privat-la- Montagne. Those whose time is limited may drive direct via Moulins to Grave- lotte. The road crosses the range of heights, the long crest of which was occupied by the French, protected by trenches, whence the Prussians advancing from the wood below were greeted with showers of pro- jectiles. Numerous graves are situated in the garden of the Ferme St. Hubert and the neighbouring fields. From Gravelotte the traveller should return to Metz through the picturesque valley via, Ars-sur- Moselle (a drive of 4 — 5 hrs., two-horse carr. about 25 fr.). Railway from Metz to Treves by Thionville and Lu- xembourg, the most direct route, in 3 3 | 4 hrs. \ fares 12 fr. 45, 9 fr. 25, G fr. 65 c. c. From Metz to Mannheim and Mayence. By Railway in 7 1 j«2 hrs. ; fares from Metz to Forbach 7 fr. 40, 5 fr. 50, 4 fr. 5 c. from Forbach to Mannheim 6 11. 37, 4 fl. 9, 2 fl. 51 kr. An undulating, agricultural district is traversed between Metz and Forbach , and several unimportant stations are passed. At St. Avoid the line enters a forest; the red sandstone imparts greater variety to the landscape. Hombourg lies picturesquely on an isolated eminence , which has procured for the place the epithet of Ha guerite du monde\ The cuttings through the wooded mountains beyond Hombourg afford a survey of the strata of the red sandstone. Forbach, the French frontier station till 1871. Soon after the station is quitted, several smelting furnaces are perceived on the r. ; farther distant the well-known heights of Spicheren, taken by the Prussians, Aug. 6th, 1870. The coal-district is then entered, the train descends to the Saar , which it crosses, and soon reaches Saarbriicken (Post), an important industrial town. — Arnual, in the vicinity, possesses a fine Gothic church of 1315, containing an admirable font, and very interesting ancient monuments of the princely family of Nassau-Saarbriicken. (Railway to Treves in 3 hrs. From Treves to Coblenz by steamboat in 10 — 12 hrs., comp. Baedeker' 5' Rhine and N. Ger- many. ) The long rows of furnaces near Duttweiler are situated in the midst of a most valuable coal-district, the greater part of which belongs to the Prussian government, and has attracted numerous industrial establishments, especially near the following to Mannheim. KAISERSLAUTERN . 51 . Route. 283 stations, Sulzbach, Friedriclisthal, and Neunkirchen. The cuttings through the rocky and wooded mountains frequently display the stratification of the coal. Between the two last stations there is a tunnel 500 yds. in length. At Neunkirchen the Hhine-Nahe Railway diverges to Creuznach and Bingen (Coblenz), see p. 284. At Bejcbacli, where the Bavarian Palatinate begins, the coun- try becomes flat. To the r. a pleasing survey of the green dale watered by the Bexbach. Homburg is a small town with a handsome modern church. It was once fortified , but was dismantled in consequence of the Peace of Westphalia. In 1705 it was re-fortified by the French, but the works were again destroyed in 1714 after the Peace of Baden. The castle of Carlsberg , situated on an eminence l l / 2 M. from the town, erected in 1780 by Duke Charles II. of Zweibriicken, was destroyed by the French in 1793. The line now skirts a chain of wooded hills, and passes two small stations. Landstuhl was once the seat of the Sickingen family, whose ruined stronghold , with walls 25 ft. in thickness , rises above the village. Francis von Sickingen was here besieged by the Electors of the Palatinate and Treves, and killed, May 7th, 1523, by a falling beam. Kaiserslautern (Cygne) is one of the most considerable towns of the Palatinate. The site of a magnificent palace erected here by the Emp. Frederick I. (Barbarossa) in 1153, but destroyed in the Spanish War of Succession, is now occupied by a modern house of correction. The handsome corn-exchange was built in 1846. A monument in the churchyard is sacred to the memory of soldiers of Napoleon who were natives of Kaiserslautern. The ancient Protestant church , with its three towers , said to have been also founded by .Frederick I., is one of the most conspicuous edifices. The line soon enters the Haardt Mountains, and descends in the picturesque and wooded valley of the Speierbach to the plain of the Rhine , 100 ft. lower. Within a short distance 12 tunnels here penetrate the many-coloured sandstone rock, the first of which (1500 yds. long) is the longest. Each tunnel is entered by a species of portal. At Neustadt (Lowe, at the station; Schiff ; Krone) the line reaches the plain of the Rhine. This is the principal town of the Haardt Mts., and was founded by the Counts Palatine, several monuments to whom are preserved in the handsome church, erected about the middle of the 14th cent. On an eminence about 1000 ft. in height, 3 M. to the S. of Neustadt. rises the Maxburg , a still unfinished castle erected 284 Route 51 RING EN. by King Max IT. of Bavaria when crown-prince, on the site of the former castle of Hambach. To the 1. near Neustadt, half-way up the hill, lies the Haardler Scfdosschen (the ancient castle of Winzingen), the ivy-clad ruins of which are converted into picturesque grounds. The line then traverses extensive vineyards and tobacco-fields. At Schifferstadt a line diverges to Speyer (in 1/4 hr.). Then Ludwigshafen (Deutsche* Haus), a small well-built town of recent origin , connected with Mannheim [European Hotel on the Rhine ; Pfaelzer Hof, Deutsches Haus in the town) by an iron bridge. From Ludwigshafen in 2 hrs. to Mayence [Rhenish, Dutch and English Hotels), comp. Baedeker's Rhine and N. Germany. d. From Metz to Bingerbriick by Neunkirchen. Railway in 6>|2 hrs.; fares to Bingen 22 fr. 60, 15 fr. 95, 16 fr. 85 c. Scenery and construction of railway very interesting between Neunkirchen and Bingerbriick. From Metz to Neunkirchen, see p. 283. Hence by the Rhein-Nahe line to Ottweiler, St. Wendel, and Wallhausen, the culminating point (1200 ft.) between the Moselle and the Rhine. Then Birkenfeld (Medicus), capital of a small isolated territory belonging to Oldenburg. Next stat. Heimbach and Kronweiler, beyond which the construction of the line is less remarkable. Oberstein [Post, Scriba, both on the 1. bank), the most picturesque point of the Nahe Valley , with its church curiously inserted in the face of a cliff , is noted for its agates , in polishing which most of the inhabitants are occupied. The stones themselves are now largely imported from America. Next stat. Fischbach, and Kirn (Post), with the ruin of Kyrburg. To the 1. a valley opens , in which the imposing ruins of the castle of Dhaun are situated. Then Monzingen, Sobernheim, and Staudernheim (*Salmen). To the r. rises the Dissibodenberg, with the ruins of an abbey founded as early as 500, and deserted in 1560. Above Wald- bockelheim rises the ruin of Rbckelheim. The next important station is Kreuznach (Palatinate Hotel; Eagle. — English Church), with 11,000 inhab., noted for its baths, particularly beneficial in cases * of scrofula, and visited by 6000 patients annually. They are situated on and near the Bade-Insel (bath-island), 20 min. from the stat., where a number of handsome houses, among which is the Curhaus, with bath-establishment, conversation hall, etc. have been erected. The environs abound in beautiful walks (Miinster am Stein, Rheingrafenstein, Ebernburg , Gans , Rothenfels). At Bingerbriick the line unites with the Rhenish Railway. Bingen (Hotel Victoria; White Horse; *Bellevue), a Hessian town with 6000 inhab., lies opposite Bingerbriick, on the r. bank TROYES. 52. Route. 285 of the Nahe , at a considerable distance from the terminus of the Nahe line , and is not entered by passengers proceeding down the Rhine. Then stat. Bacharach, Oberwesel, Boppard, St. Goar, Capellen, (Stolzenfels) and Coblenz, all interesting points (comp. Baedeker s Rhine and N. Germany). 52. From Paris to Bale by Troyes, Belfort, and Mulhouse. Express in 12 l |2, ordinary trains in 16 hrg. \ fares 58 fr. 70 c, 44 fr., 32 fr. 30 c. The station is on the 1., adjoining the Station de Strasbourg. From Paris to Noisy-le-Sec, see p. 267. The Strasbourg line here diverges to the 1. At Nogent-sur- Marne (j>. 140) the Marne is crossed. On the r. the park of Vincennes is visible. The line now enters the fertile, but monotonous plain of Brie. From stat. Gretz a branch-line to Armainvillers. Nangis with 2000 inhab., a busy little town, possesses an ancient castle and an interesting Gothic church (St. Martin). The line traverses several attractive valleys and a succession of viaducts and tunnels. * Stat. Longueville. Branch-line in '| 4 hr. to Provins, an ancient town (7500 inhab.) on the Vouz-ie, with remnants of a castle of the former Counts of Champagne. The church of St. Quiriace, with its dome, and the Tour du Roi (or de C&sar), an early mediaeval structure, are worthy of notice. At stat. Chalmaison the line quits the plain of Brie, and enters the valley of the Seine. From stat. Flamboin a branch line to Montereau (p. 280). At stat. Nog enl-sur- Seine, the line crosses the Seine. About 4 1 1-2 M. to the S. of Nogent once lay the Abbey of Paraclet, where the remains of Abelard and Meloisc reposed for nearly seven cen- turies. In 1792 they were conveyed to the church of St. Laurent at No- gent, whence they were finally removed to the cemetery of Pere Lachaise at Paris (p. 120). A farm now occupies the site of the abbey. The empty vault, however, still exists. The country continues flat. Near stat. Pont-sur-Seine is situ- ated the chateau Le Muet, where Madame Letitia , Napoleon's mother, once resided, afterwards the property of Casimir Perier. The remains of Voltaire once reposed in the church of stat. Ro- milly, to which they were transferred on the suppression of the neighbouring abbey of Scellieres , the great poet's first resting- place'. They were subsequently conveyed to the Pantheon at Paris (p. 153), whence they were removed in 1 tS 1 4 . Several small stations , then Troyes ( Hotels de Paris, de France, du Mulet, du Commerce; Restaurants Pillost, Chaulin; *Re$il. RestauroMt) on the Seine, the ancient capital of Champagne, a busy and well-built town, with 33,000 inhabitants. During the Roman period the town was 2b(j Route 52. TROYES. From Paris named Augustobona , then Trieassis , and after the 5th cent. Trecae. Mention of it is frequently made in the wars of the middle ages. The cathedral of St. Pierre, commenced in 1208, completed in 1640, exhibits a combination of different styles of architecture. The choir has recently been restored in the early Gothic style. The richly decorated Portal dates from 1506. — *St. Urbain was erected in 1262 — 67 by Pope Urban IV. (Jacques Pantaleon, son of a shoemaker)', a native of this town. — The churches of St. Jean of the 13th, St. Pantaleon of the 16th, and Ste. Ma- deleine of the 12th century, contain little to detain the traveller. The last named possesses a handsome rood-loft (jube) with rich sculpture. The *H6tel de Ville, erected 1624 — 70, contains a handsome hall, adorned with the busts of seven celebrated natives of the town. On the E. side a medallion-ligure in marble of Louis XIV., dating from 1680, with a Latin inscription by Racine. The Museum, founded in 1831, contains pictures, sculptures, and objects illustrative of natural history. Above it a ^Library of 100,000 vols, and upwards of 2000 MSS. (open daily, 10—2 o'clock). Branch-line from Troyes to Bar-sur-Seine in 1 hr. 5 min. Leaving Troyes, the train traverses meadow-land on the bank of the Seine, which it quits at stat. Rouilly. Beyond stat. Ven- deuvre the picturesque and partially wooded valley of the Aube is entered. This district between Troyes and Arcis, and as far as Langres. was the scene of the last desperate struggle of Na- poleon against the Allies under Schwarzenberg and Blucher, in the winter of 1814. Stat. Jessains commands an extensive prospect. On the Aube is situated the village of La Rothiere, where on Feb. 1st, 1814, Blucher gained the first victory over Napoleon on French soil. Farther to the 1., on the height beyond the Aube, rises the ancient town of Brienne ( Brienne le Chateau, afterwards named Brienne Napoleon), celebrated "for the military school where Napoleon studied in 1779 — 84. A sanguinary conflict took place here between Blucher and Napoleon, Jan. 29th, 1814, when the town was bombarded and set on fire, and Blucher narrowly es- caped capture. Napoleon destined the sum of one million fr. to be cm- ployed in rebuilding the town. In 1852 Napoleon III. presented the inha- bitants with 400,(XX) fr., which has been expended in the construction of the new Mairie; in front of the latter a bronze Statue of Napoleon in his 15th year, by Louis Rochet. The line now descends the pleasant valley of the Aube, crosses the stream near stat. Arsonval, and reaches Bar-sur-Aube, an ancient town (4500 inhab.), with the churches of St. Maclou and St. Pierre, dating from the 11th and 12th centuries. Schwarzen- berg here gained a victory over Oudinot on Feb. 27th, 1814. Next stat. Clairvaux, which lies to the r. in the valley of the Aube. The celebrated Cistercian abbey (Clara Vallis), founded by St. Bernard in 1115, is now a workhouse. No traces of anti- quity are now perceptible. to Bale. LANG-RES 52. Route 287 The lino now enters the valley of the Aujon, and at stat. Maranville that of the Broze. Stat. Bricon is the junction of the branch-line to Chdtillon-sur- Seine and Nuits-sous-Ravferes (p. 289.) Beyond Villiers-le-Sec a huge viaduct of 50 arches, 160 ft. in height, crosses the valley of the Suize to Chaumont (en-Bassigny) (6300 inhab.), on a barren ridge between the Suize and the Marne. The church of St. Jean Baptiste of the 13th, with choir of the 16th cent., deserves notice. La Tour Hautefeuille, near the Palais de Justice, is the remains of an ancient castle of the Counts of Champagne. Branch-line from Chaumont in 2 1 j-2 hrs. to Blesmc , a station on the Paris and Strasbourg line, traversing the valley of the Marne. The line descends through deep cuttings into the valley of the Marne. The district is picturesque. Stat. Foulain, Rolam- pont, then Langres (Hotel de L' Europe; Poste), the ancient An- domatunum, capital of the Lingones, a fortified town and an episcopal residence loftily situated on a spur of the Plateau de Langres, with 8300 inhab. The cathedral of *St. Mammes, with its two vast towers, is a structure of the 11th and 12th centuries, in the transition style from Romanesque to Gothic. St. Martin, of the 13th ce*nt., is Gothic; tower of the 18th cent. At the Porte du March e is an admirably preserved * Roman Gateway. The Museum (Place St. Didier) contains altars, inscriptions, and other antiquities. Diderot (d. at Paris in 1784) was born at Langres in 1713. — The three sources of the Marne are situated in a rocky ravine, to the S. 7 near the farm La Marnotte. From stat. Chalindrey a line diverges to Gray and Auxonne (p. 290). Then a long tunnel. The line then enters the valley of the Amance, which it follows down to the Saone. Stat. Hortes, Charmoy , La ferte-sur- Amance. The celebrated baths of Bourbonne-les-Bains are situated 12 M. to the N. (diligence in 2 hrs.); sulphureous and saline waters, known to the Romans. The line soon crosses the Saone and ascends on its r. bank. At Port d J Atelier the line from Vesoul to Nancy by Epinal diverges, which unites with the Paris and Strasbourg line at stat. Blain- ville-la- Grande. At stat. Port-sur-Saone the valley of the Saone is quitted, and the line traverses wooded heights to Vaivre and Vesoul (6800 inhab. ), the busy capital of the Department Haute-Saone, picturesquely situated in the valley of the Burgeon. (Branch- line to Gray, see above.) Then three small stations, and several cuttings and tunnels. Towards the 1. (N.E.) the Vosges Mts. become visible. Stat. Lure, in the valley of the Ognon, was once a considerable abbey. The Vosges continue to rise picturesquely on the 1 288 Route 52. BELFORT. Belfort (6000 inhab.), a fortress on the Savoureuse, was con- structed by Vauban under Louis XIV. In this neighbourhood, near He'ricourt on the Lisaine, on Jan. 15th, 16th, and 17th 1871, the engagements between Gen. Werder's army and the French 'Armee de l'Est' under Bourbaki took place, which compelled upwards of 80,000 French to cross the Swiss frontier near Pontarlier (p. 291). The fortress was occupied by the Germans on Feb. 18th. This is the junction of the line to Besan^on, which proceeds thence by Lons le Saulmer and Bourg to Lyons, being the most direct line of com- munication between Strasbourg and Lyons. Miihlhausen, Fr. Mulhouse [Ville de Paris; Lion Rouge; Cygne; *H6tel de France, at the station), once a free town of the Ger- manic Empire , belonging to Switzerland from 1515 to 1798, then to France till 1871, and now again to Germany, is an im- portant manufacturing town on the Rhine-Rhone Canal, with upwards of 40,000 inhab. Several branches of the 111 traverse the town. The Societe Commerciale possesses nat. history and industrial collections. The line to Bale now traverses the broad plain of the Rhine; to the r. vine-clad hills; to the 1. in the distance the mountains of the Black Forest, among which the Blauen is the most con- spicuous. St. Louis is the last French stat. To the 1. on the Rhine is situated the former fortress of Hiiningen, constructed by Vauban in 1679, dismantled by the Austrians in 1815. Bale (*Trois Rots, on the Rhine. At the central station : *Schweizerhof; *Sauvage ; *Cicogne ; *Couronne and Tete, on the Rhine; Poste; Cygne), see Baedeker's Switzerland. 53. From Paris to Neuchatel by Dijon. Express to Dijon in G 1 ^, ordinary trains in lOhrs. $ fares 35 fr. 30, 26 fr. 45, 19 fr. 40 c. Express from Dijon to Neuchatel in 6 3 |4, ordinary trains in 8»j 2 hrs. ; fares 15 fr. 20, 11 fr. 95, 8 fr. 75 c. Station in the Boulevart Mazas, comp. p. 28. As far as Fontaineblau see p. 210. Next stat. Thomery, ce- lebrated for its luscious grapes (Chasselas de Fontainebleau). Stat. Morel, a venerable town on the Loing, which here falls into the Seine, possesses a Gothic church of the 13th cent, and a ruined chateau once occupied by Sully. (Railway hence to Montargis, Never s, Moulins, and Vichy. ) The line crosses the valley of the Loing by a viaduct of 30 arches. Stat. St. M amine s ; then Montereau (Grand Monarque), picturesquely situated at the confluence of the Seine and Yonne. Here on Feb. 18th, 1814, Napoleon gained his last victory over the Allies and the Prince of Wirtemberg. (Branch-line to Flam- boin, p. 285, stat, on the Paris and Troyes line.) The train ascends the broad and well cultivated valley of the Yonne. Sens (Hotel de I'Ecu), the ancient capital of the Se- DIJON. 53. Route. 289 nones, who under Brennus plundered Rome (B.C. 390), the Age- dincum of the Romans, is now a quiet and clean town with 12,000 inhab. The early Gothic '^Cathedral (St. Etienne) dates from the 12th cent. ; magnificent 8. Portal in the Flamboyant style. Ancient stained glass and several monuments in the choir. The episcopal vestments and other relics of Thomas a Becket, who sought an asylum at Sens in 1164, are shown. The cathe- dral bells are among the finest in France, one of them weighing upwards of 17 tons. Joigny (Due de Bourgogne), the Joviniacum of the Romans, is a picturesque and ancient town (6000 inhab. ) on the Yonne. Next stat. La Roche. From La Roche by a branch-line in 52 min. to Auxerre (Hotel du Leopard), capital (13,000 inhab.) of the Department of the Yonne, possessing several good churches, especially the late Gothic cathedral. Chahlis, well known for its wines, lies between Auxerre and Tonnerre (see below), 13»j 2 M. to the E. of the former. Near La Roche the line crosses the Yonne, into which the Armancon here empties itself, and follows the latter river and the Canal de Bourgogne, connecting the Seine and Saone. About 6 M. from St. Florentin is the Cistercian Abbey of Pontigny, where Thomas a Becket passed two years of his exile. Langton, archbishop of Canterbury, banished by John, and other English prelates have also sought a retreat within its walls. Tonnerre (Lion d'Or ; *Rail. Restaurant), picturesquely situated on the Armancon, a town with 5000 inhab., possesses a monument to the minister Louvois (d. 1691). The church of St. Pierre, on an eminence above the town, commands a pleasing prospect. Stat. Tanlay possesses a fine chateau in the Renaissance style, founded by the brother of Admiral Coligny, the chief victim of St. Bartholomew's Night, who with the Prince de Conde' and other Huguenot leaders held meetings in one of the apartments. Then a tunnel, 5-40 yds. in length; bridge over the Armancon ; tunnel 1020 yds. long, and the canal and Armancon are again crossed. From stat. Nuils-sous-Ravitres a branch line to Chdtillon- sur-Seine and Bricon (p. 287). Montbard, birth-place (1707) of the naturalist Buffon (d. at Paris in 1788), contains his chateau and a monument to his memory. Beyond stat. Blaisy-Bas the line penetrates the culminating ridge, or watershed (1326 ft.), between the Seine and the Rhone by a long tunnel (2 l /4 M,). Hence to Dijon a succession of viaducts, cuttings and tunnels. Beyond stat. Malain, with its ruined chateau, the line enters the picturesque valley of the Ouche, bounded on the r. by the slopes of the Cote d'Or. Dijon (Hotels de la Cloche, du Pare, du Jura ; Rail. Restaurant), the ancient capital of Burgundy, now of the Oepartoient of the Cote d'Or (37,000 inhab.), is situated at the confluence of the Ouche and the Souzon. During four centuries, until the death Bjf.dkkkk. Paris. 3rd Edition. [{) 290 Route 53. DOLE. From Paris of Charles the Bold (1476) the dukes of Burgundy resided here. Their handsome and extensive palace, part of which was fitted up in the last century as an *H6tel de Ville, is still an object of interest. The * Museum, contiguous to the Hotel de Ville, contains mediaeval relics, ornaments, carved ivory, paintings, engravings etc. The most interesting objects are the magnificent *monurnents of the' dukes Philippe le Hardi (d. 1404) and Jean sans Peur (d. 1419), and of Margareth, wife of the latter, formerly in the Chartreuse, afterwards in the church of St. Benigne. They were seriously injured in 1793, but restored in 1828. — In the vicinity- are the Theatre aud the Palais de Justice, the latter with a facade in the Renaissance style. The cathedral of St. Benigne is a Gothic edifice of the 13th and 14th centuries. The church of *Notre Dame is a fine spe- cimen of pure Gothic of the 14th cent., the E. side especially worthy of attention. St. Michel, consecrated in 1529, is in the Renaissance style. The castle, now half in ruins, was constructed by Louis XL (1478 — 1512) after the union of Burgundy with France ana was afterwards employed as a state-prison. The former Carthusian Monastery, of which a few fragments still remain, is now a lunatic asylum. The town possesses a number of handsome houses in the Renaissance style, especially interesting to the professional. The former ramparts have been converted into promenades. — Dijon is the nucleus of the wine-traffic of Upper Burgundy ; the growths of Gevroy (which yields the delicious Chambertin), Vougeot, Nuits, and Beaune are the most celebrated (comp. p. 292). At Dijon the railway to Macon (p. 292) diverges to the r. The line now described follows the 1. bank of the Ouche. Near the small fortress of Auxonne the line crosses the Saone. After Stat. Champvans a long tunnel (885 yds.) Dole (Ville de Lyon,- Ville de Geneve), witq 11,000 inhab., formerly the capital of Franche Comte, is picturesquely situated on the Doubs and the Rhone- Rhine- Canahel. The splanade of St. Maurice commands a fine view of the Jura Mts. and Mont Blanc in the extreme distance to the r. Branch-line hence to Besancon. The canal and the river are now crossed and the valley of the Loue entered, on the side of the wooded hills of Foret de Chaux. Stat. Arc-Senans, two villages with a saline spring, is the junction for the Belfort, Besancon and Lyons line (p. 288), which again diverges to the r. at the next stat. Mouchard. To the I. a branch line to Salins. The line now penetrates the valleys of the Jura. Numerous viaducts and tunnels. St. Arbois (Pomme d'Or), a pleasant town (6000 inhab.) on the Cuisance in a wine-growing district, to Neuchdtel. N El CHAT EL 53. Route. 291 was the birth-place (1761) of Pichegru. Mesnay, a large village on the opposite bank of the Cuisance, possesses an extensive paper-manufactory. Then several small stations. Pontarlier (Hotel National; Croix Blanche), a small town (5000 inhab.), on the Doubs, is the last French station of im- portance. Custom-house formalities for those entering France. The line follows the 1. bank of the Doubs and crosses the river near the fortified pass of La Cluse. To the r., on a rock (300 ft. in height, is situated the Fort de Joux, where Mirabeau, Toussaint Louverture and several other well-known characters were once confined. To the 1., on a still loftier rock, rises a new fort. To the 1. the church of St. Pierre de la Cluse. Les Verrieres de Joux (3033 ft.) is the last French, and Les Verrieres Suisses the first Swiss station. In this vicinity Febr. 1st, 1871, the French army (84,000 men, 10,000 horses) crossed the Swiss frontier (comp. p. 288). Beyond Les Verrieres the line reaches the culminating point [Col des Verrieres, 3080 ft.) between the Doubs and the Reuse. Then two tunnels; to the r. far below is St. Sulpice where the Reuse rises in considerable volume. Two viaducts and another tunnel (560 yds.). Stat. Boveresse lies high above the village and commands a pleasant view of the animated Val de Travers. On the opposite bank of the Reuse lies Motiers (Maison Commune), where Rousseau wrote his 'Lettres de la Montagne'. Then to the r. Fleurier (Couronne), a small town of some importance, with considerable watch-manufactories. The line gradually descends to stat. Couvet (Ecu), a picturesque town, and stat. Travers. To the r. rises the Creux du Vent (4806 ft.), which may be ascended hence or from Noiraigue. On the summit is a crater in the form of a horse-shoe opening towards the N.E., about 500 ft. in depth, and 2 1 j-2 M. in circumference. When the weather changes this crater becomes filled with white vapour, resembling a vast boiling cauldron. Stat. Noiraigue. The Val de Travers here terminates and the line enters a narrow ravine, traversed by the Reuse. Frequent tunnels and viaducts. At Troisrods, where the ravine is quitted, the extensive viaduct of the line to Yverdon is perceived far below to the r. A striking prospect is now obtained to the r. of the Lake of Neuchatel and the Alps. The line descends gradually to stat. Auvernier, the junction for Yverdon; it then crosses the Ravine of Serrieres (village of Serrieres to the r. on the lake below) by a lofty viaduct and finally reaches the station, situated high above the town, of Neuch&tel (*H6tel Bellevue, in an open situation on the lake, omnibus 3 / 4 fr. ; *H6tel des Alpes, near the lake; *Faucon, in the town; Hotel du Lac, on the lake, moderate; Hotel du Commerce near the post-office); see Baedeker's Switzerland. 19* 292 54. From Paris to Geneva by Macon, Amberieu and Culoz. Express to Macon in $ l \->, ordinary trains in 12*12 hrs. ; fares 49 fr. 40. 37 fr. 5, 27 fr. 15 c. From Macon to Geneva by express in ordinary trains in 7 hrs. ; fares 20 fr. 60, Jo fr. 45, 11 fr. 35 c. Station in the Boule- vart Mazas, comp. p. 28. As far as Dijon see p. 289. The line to Macon crosses the Ouche and the Canal de Bourgogne (p. 289) and skirts the base of the sunny vineyards of the. Cote d'Or, which extend almost the entire distance from Dijon to Chalons and produce the choicest qualities of the Burgundy wines (Chambertin, Clos de Beze, Clot de Vougeot, Romanee, Tdche, Nuits, Beaune etc.). To the r. of • stat. CorgoLoin is the village of Alpxe, another well-known wine producing place (Gorton, Cliarlemagne, Clos da lloi). Stat. Beaune, with 11,000 inhab., on the Bouzoise, a town with several Gothic edifices and a monument of the mathematician Monge, who was born here in 1746 (d. 1818). From stat. Chagny a branch-line diverges to Creuzot. The line passes under the Canal du Centre, which connects the Saone and the Loire, by means of a tunnel, intersects the Col de Chagny and enters the valley of the Thalie. Chalons-sur-Sadne (Trois Faisans ; hotel duChevreuil; Hotel de I' Europe) with 19,000 inhab., the Cabillonum of the Romans, is situated at the junction of the Canal du Centre with the Saone, which is here navigated by steamboats (to Lyons in 5 — hrs.). The town contains little to detain the traveller. The early Go- thic Cathedral, recently restored, exhibits the transition to that style from the Romanesque. (The express trains do not touch Chalons, the branch line to which diverges from the junction St. Cosme.) The line follows the r. bank of the Saone; to the 1. in the distance the Jura is visible; to the r. in clear weather the snowy summit of Mont Blanc, 150 M. distant. Stat. Tournus (5500 inhab.) possesses a fine abbey-church (St. PhilibertJ. Macon (Hotels du Sauvage, des Champs Ely sees, de I' Europe; Rail. Restaurant), capital of the Department of the Saone and the Loire, with 18,000 inhab., is another great focus of the wine- trade. The remains of the early Romanesque cathedral St. Vin- cent are interesting to architects. Macon is the junction for Lyons, the line to which diverges to the r. at St. Clement. The Saone is now crossed and the De- partment de l'Ain entered by the r. bank of the Veyle; in front and to the 1. the Jura Mts. continue to be visible. Bourg (Hotel de I'Europe, du Midi, du Palais), with 14,000 in- hab., the ancient capital of Bresse, is situated on the 1. bank of the Reyzousse, 3 / 4 M. from the' station. The church of Noire Dame de Bourg, erected from the loth to the 17th cent, in a CtlLOZ. 54. Route. 293 variety of stylos, contains several pictures, sculpture and line wood-carving. On the promenade Le Bastion is a * Monument of Bichat (d. 1802), who once studied at Bourg, by David d' Angers. The house in which Lalande (d. at Paris in 1807) was born is indicated by a tablet. — Bourg is the junction for Lyons, Mou- chard, Besancon and Mulhouse, the direct line between Lyons and Strasbourg. The celebrated "Church of Brou, in the llorid Gothic style, erected in 15U — 36 by Margaret of Austria, regent of the Netherlands, is situated l | 2 M. from the town. It contains the sumptuous * Monuments of the foundress, her husband Philibert, Duke of Savoy, and her mother-in-law Margaret of Bourbon. Her well-know motto : "Fortune infortune forte une" may be seen in different parts of the church. The line intersects the forest of Seillon. Near stat. Pont d'Ain the Ain is crossed. Amberieu, a pleasant little town on the Albarine, situated at the base of the Jura Mts., is the junction for Lyons. The valley of the Albarine is no^ ascended. To the 1. the ruined chateaux of Vieux-Mont-Ferrand and St. Germain. The valley which soon becomes wilder and more imposing, is quitted at stat. Tenay. Beyond stat. Rossillon a tunnel (587 yds.); then to the r. the lakes of Pugieu. The line enters the Valley of the Rhone at Stat. Culoz, junction for Chambery and St. Michel (Susa and Turin), at the S. base of the Colombier (5000 ft.), which is occasionally ascended for the sake of the view. The broad, marshy valley of the Rhone is next traversed. Stat. Seyssel lies on both banks of the river, which is here crossed by a double suspension-bridge. To the r., on the opposite bank, the loftily situated church of Bassy. Near stat. Pyrimont are mines of asphalt. Then four tunnels. Stat. Bellegarde (Poste), at the entrance of the valley of the Valserine, is the last French station. Custom-house formalities for travellers entering France. Above the influx of the Valserine, 3 j4 M. from the Hotel de la Poste, is the so-called Perte du Rhone. When the river is low, the water is 'lost 1 in a rocky gulf, which however has been considerably widened by blasting. These rocks are covered when the stream is high. Immediately beyond Bellegarde the train crosses the great Valserine Viaduct (to the r. far below is the bridge of the road) and enters the long Credo Tunnel (2^3 M.). The rocky ravine next traversed is bounded by Mont Vuache (3704 ft.) on the r. and the Jura (Les Grandes Cretes ; Col de Farges etc.) on the 1, The Fort de I'Ecluse, high above on the L, completely commands this defile. Several small stations, then Geneva (Hotels. On the left bank : * M e t r o p o 1 e ; :! Ecu de Ge- neve; :: C ouronne. — : H d t e 1 de la Poste and : H o t e 1 d u Rhone, moderate. — On the right bank: "Hotel des Bergues; : d e Russie; de la Paix; d'Angleterre; Victoria; Geneve. — Caf 4s du TSTord; de la Couronne; du Theatre etc. — Omnibus from the stat. to the town 30 c, each article of lugg. 15 c, — English Church 294 54. Route. GENEVA. in the Rue du Mont Blanc), the capital of the canton of Geneva, and the richest and most populous town in Switzerland (48,000 in- hab.). The town is situated at the S. extremity of the Lake of Geneva, French Lac Leman, at the point where the Rhone emerges, and when seen from the lake, presents a most imposing appearance , the banks of the Rhone being flanked with broad quais and substantial buildings. The Rhone is traversed by six bridges, the highest of which is the handsome Pont du Mont Blanc, leading from the Rue du Mont Blanc to the Jardin An- glais on the 8. side, and forming with the adjoining Quai du Mont Blanc the central point of attraction to visitors in summer. Between the Pont du Mont Blanc and Pont des Bergues, united to the latter by a suspension bridge, is Rousseau's Island, with a bronze statue of Rousseau by Pradier. The Quai du Mont Blanc affords a magnificent survey of the Mont Blanc group, which is visible almost in its entire extent , and presents a strikingly beautiful appearance on clear evenings. For further details with regard to the older part of the town etc. see Baedeker's Switzerland. Index. Aa, the 223. Abbeville 220. St e . Adresse 236. Aigremont 261. Ain, the 293. Aix-la-Chapelle 262. Albarine, the 293. Alencon 254. Alfort 211. Aloxe 292. Amance, the 287. Amberieu 293. Amboise 241. Amiens 221. Aneenis 248. Andelys, Les 233. Angers 246/ Anzin 263. Apremont 215. Arbois 290. Arcueil 159. Arch wilier 274. Arc Senans 290. Arcis-sur-Aube 286. Ardres 223. Argentan 254* Argenteuil 203. Armainvillers 285. Armancon, the 289. Arnual 282. Arques 226. — , the 224. Arras 223. Ars 280. Arsonval 286. Asnieres 181. 201. Athis-Mons 237. Aube, the 286. Aubrais, Les 238. Aujon, the 287. Aulne, the 251. Auray 251. Auteuil 94. Auvernier 291. Auxerre 289. Auxonne 290. St. Avoid 282. Avricourt 274. Bacharach 285. Bale 288. I Bar-le-Duc 270. j Bar-sur-Aube 286. i Bai'bison 215. ! Bar-sur-Seine 286. i Barentin 237. Bas-Breau 215. IBassy 293. | Batignolles, Les 203. j Bayeux 257. j Beaugency 240. j Beaune 292. | Beauvais 222. i Belfort 288. I Bellegarde 293. Bellevue 183. j Bernay 254. Besancon 288. Bethune, the 226. Bexbach 283. Bezons 234. Bingen 284. Bingerbruck 284. Birkenfeld 284. Bizy 233. Blainville-la-Graude 28 ^ Blaisy-Bas 289. Blanc-Misseron 263. Blesme 287. Blois 240. Bockelheim 284. Bois-le-Roi 211. Bolbec 237. Bondy, foret de 267. Bonneville, La 254. Bonnieres 233. Boppard 285. Borcette 262. Bouille, La 232. Boulogne-sur-Mer 217. Boulogne-sur-Seine 199. Bourbonne-les-Bains 287. Bourg 292. Bourgogne, Canal de 289. Boursault, chateau 267. Bouzoise, the 292. Boveresse 291. Boves 222. Braine-le-Comte 264. Bresse, the 292 Brest 251. Bretigny 238. Bricon 287. Brie 285. Brienne 286. St. Brieuc 253. Brittany 251. Brou., church of 293. Broze, the 287. Brunoy 211. Brussels 264. Bueil 254. Burtscheid 262. Caen 254. Calais 222. Calvados, rochers de 236. Caneale 225. Capellen 285. Carentan 257. Carlsberg 283. Carnac 251. St. Catherine, Mont 232. Caux, Pays de 237. Centre, Canal du 292. Cesson 211. Chablis 289. Chagny 292. Chalifert 267. Chalindrey 28/. Chalmaison 285. Chalons-sur-Marne 269. Chalons-sur-Saone 292. Chamarande 238. Chambery 293. Chambord 240. Champvans 290. Champtoce 248. Chantilly 222. Charenton 140. 211. Charleroi 260. Charmoy 287. Chartres 243. Chateaudun 238. Chateaulin 251. Chateau-Thierry 267. Chatelaudren 253. Chatillon-sur-Seine 287. Chatou 202. Chaudfontaine 261. 296 INDEX. Chaumont 241. 287. C'hauny 259. Chaux, foret de 290. Chaville 182. Chenonceaux 241. Cher, the 241. Cherbourg 257. Chokier 261. Cinq-Mars 242. Clairvaux 286. Clamart 182. St. Clement 292. Clermont 222. Clichy 181. 234. St. Cloud 199. Cluse. la 291. Coblenz 285. Cologne 262. Colombes 203. 234. Colombier, the 293. Combs-la- Ville 211. Commercy 270. Compiegne 259. Conches 254. Conflans 234. Corbeil 237. Corgoloin 292. Corny 282. St. Cosme 292. Cote de Grace 236. Cote Angouleme-du-Temple. d 1 . Anjou-Saint-Honore, d 1 . II 7 10 L2 5 12 9 12 Anne, Sainte- (Bcrcy) . . li 3 -Popincourt. pass. Ste- 11 302 LIST OF NAMES R.W.B. R.W.B. Anne, Ste- Annelets, des Antin, avenue d" . . . . — , cite d 1 — , impasse d" . . . . — , d 1 Antoine, St- — , du Faubourg-St- . . — , hopital Saint- . . . Apolline, Ste- Aqueduc, de V Arago, boulevard . . . . Arbalete, de T Arbre-Sec, de T . . . . Arc de Triomphe du Car- rousel — — de FEtoile . . . Arcade, de V Archeveche, palais de V — , pont de T . . . . — , quai de T Archives Nationales . . . Arcole, pont d" 1 Arcole, (T Argenson d 1 Argenteuil, d -1 Argout, d 1 (anc. R. des Vieux Augustins) Armorique, de V . . . . Arnaud, de St- Arras, cT Arrivee, de V Arsenal. Arsenal, de V Arsenal, gare de V . . . Arsenal, place de V . . . Artillerie, Depot d 1 . . . Arts, pont des — et-Metiers, square des Asile, de V Assas Assises publiques . . . . Assomption, eglise de V Astorg, ■ rl p fj 1-llMl *1 "lit 9 l-^viinpl f*irw» T? Qtp Af*ivip g 2 PpVUp fitp- 10 Bucherie d6 lii 8 Cclcstiiis cjuai d.6S 10 8 Cels Bude (anc. Tl. ( Jriii 1 1 au in o ) 10 13t*ndi*ici*s do s L3 Rnflfanlt 8 lo W ii ffi kn fl p T-tno'pn n rl nvpnnp 1> Ll^ Ctl UU. ^ tl > L.I I lie • . . • 10 3 1 ■f^PHtT»P rill ( C\]~\ 51 TAYIYIP^ 14 Buisson-lbaint- Louis, du j j 0(3i*isaic* dcla, . « • fl 10 g C\ 1 * 51 11 51 Tl C\ 1 G 7 1 > utte- dli aumon t . de la • • ID ( Hi n VkT»i kl 10 Buttcs des . * 14 Chaillot de 1 I 'uttes-dliaumont Pare des L2 d liaise de la 6 Buy el in L2 Chalgrin 1 Cabanis 7 dlialigny L2 ( !ade1 i dlialons de 1 7 Gail 10 dliamp - de - l^Alouette . du daire passage du 7 (voir Corvisart) 7 — place du dliamp-d 1 Asile du 5 — du ] dliampollion (anc. Ii. des ( 'oicu^ rl ' Vd n^vo'iKi nrlTiiiifiiQ- V> dlont U | J ct 1 li, 1 1 d u II 11 1 1 11 1> Macon si 8 tration clc l tl I II1C11 LL-o * ell tl "JCllC ll^o • dliaptal. college (; darmes. convent des 6 dliarbonniere. de la . 10 da>i*mcs, des • 8 ( 1 li u T'hnnni pi*c - fit - Atitninii v^ll ti l UU 11 Lll C 1 o O I . \ 1 1 I < M 1 1 *L ., ( **T t»Yl n t f 1 M T»M 1 1 Tl 1 » Tl T G Q fl O* P V til I' I 1 11C - JJtlOOtl f^V • • . • (> dliarenton porte de L3 daroline (Batignolles) (s (i (2 dai'pentiei* (j dliarite, liopital de la diii'i'iere. de la • . . . . s (^.11 1 T'l P1Y1 !1 0"n P l\ T (»i>|i \J lltl I lCllltl^, 111. , J \ I/IL • • • 10 1^ i ttm pt»p c pli i »ni i n clpG Vytll 1 ltllft^ I'UUIUllJ lleo . • [2 V.' 1 1 til 1L. llltlu, ne 10 13 llttl lt5b ^ . • • • • • 2 darrousel, place du 5 Cliarles. passage St- 10 4 dharles ^ , Cascades, des L3 Casiarir-Delavigne .... 8 14 5 dhai-unne, boulevart de . 6 12 IN THE PLAN. 305 R.W.B. R.W.B. Charonne , de (Belleville) (voir Pelleport) .... Chartiere ....... Chartres, de (La Chapelle) Chateaubriand, de ... Chateau-d'Eau, le . . . . Chateau-d'Eau, du ... Chateaudun, de (anc. Rue Cardinal Fesch) .... Chateau-Landon, de . . . Chateau du Maine . . . Chatelet, place du . . . . Chaudron Chaufourniers, des . . . Chaume, du Chaussee-d'Antin, de la . . Chaussee-du- Maine, de la Chausson, passage . . . Chauveau-Lagarde .... Chauvelot Chazelle Chemin-de-Fer, du . . . Chemin-Vert, du . . . . Chene-Vert, cour du . . . Cherche-Midi, du . . . . Cherroy Cheval-Blanc, passage du . Chevaliers, impasse des Chevert Chevreuse Chine, de la Choiseul, passage .... Choiseul, de Choisy, avenue de . . . . Chopinette, de la . . . . Chretien, impasse .... Christiani Christine (Passy), voir Leo- nard de Vinci .... Christine Christophe Colomb . . . Cimarosa Cimetiere-St-Benott, du . . Cirque d'Ete — d'Hiver Cirque, du Cite, de la — , ile de la Citeaux Clapeyron Clary Claude-Marais, St- ... Vellefaux Clauzel Clavel Clef, de la Clement Cler Clery, de . • Clichy, boulevart de . . . — , de 10 13 12 10 Clichy, place de .... — , anc. prison pour dettes Clignancourt, de .... Clinique de la Faculte de Medecine Clisson Cloitre-Notre-Dame, du . . Clotaire Clotilde — , eglise Sainte- . . . Clovis, de . • — , impasse Cluny, hotel de Cochin, hospice .... Ccaur-de-Vey, impasse . . Colbert Coligny Colisee, du College de France .... Colombe, de la Colonne de Juillet. . . . — Vendome Combes Comete, de la Commandeur, avenue du . Commerce, cour du . . . — , cour du — , place du (anc. place de la Mairie) .... — , du (Bercy), voir de la Nativite — , du (Grenelle) . . . — , Tribunal de . . . . Commines Compans Compiegne, de Comptes, cour des . . . Concorde, place de la . . — , pont de la .... Conde Condorcet Conference, quai de la . . Conseil d'Etat Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers Conservatoire de Musique . Conservatoire, du . . . . Constantine, pont de . . . — , de — , de (Belleville) . . . — , de (Plaisance) . . . Constantinople, de ... Conti, quai de Contrescarpe, boulevart . . Copenhague, de .... Copernic Copreau Coq-Heron Coquillierc Corbeau Corbineau L2 12 10 11 B/edekrr. Paris. 3rd Edition. 20 306 LIST OF NAMES R.W.B. R.W.B. Cordelieres, des .... Cordiers, des Corneille, lycee (anc. Lycee Napoleon) Comes, des Corps legislatif, palais du Corvisart (anc. R. du Champ de PAlouette) Cossonnerie, de la . . . . Cotentin Cotte, de Couesnon Courcelles, boulevart de — , de (les Ternes) . . . Couronnes, des (Belleville) Cours la Reine Courty, de Cqutellerie, de la . . . . Coutures-Saint-Gervais . . Coypel Cretet Crillon, de Crimee, de Croissant, du Croix, de la (Bercy), voir Fecamp Croix-Boissiere, de la . . Croix-de-la-Bretonnery, Ste Croix-Nivert Croix-Rouge, carrefour de la Croix-du-Roule, de la (voir Daru) Croulebarbe, de Crozatier Crussol, de Cujas Culture-Ste-Catherine (voir Sevigne) Cure, de la Cuvier Cygne, du Cygnes, allee des .... Daguerre Dames, des (Batignolles) . Dames, des (Ternes), voir Poncelet Dames - St-Michel , couvent des Dames-St-Thomas , couvent des Dancourt (anc. R. du Thea- tre Montmartre) . . . Dany, impasse Dareau Daru (anc. R.Croix du Roule) Daubenton Daumesnil, avenue . . . Dauphin, du Dauphine, place .... Dauphine Daval 10 13 Debelleyme Dechargeurs, des .... Decres Delaborde, place .... Delaitre Delambre Delamichodiere ..... Delessert, avenue , . . . Delorme, passage .... Delta, du Demours Denain, boulevart . . . . Denis, boulevart Saint- . . . — , porte Saint- . ... . — , St- Denis-St-Antoine, St- . . . Denis-du-St-Sacrement, eglise Saint- Denis, du Faubourg-St- . . Depart, du Departement, du . . . . Deprez Desaix, quai Desaix Descartes Descartes, lycee (anc. Lycee Louis-le-Grand) .... Descombes De Seze Desgenettes Desir, passage du . . . . Desiree Desnouettes Desrenaudes Deux-Ecus, des .... — -Moulins, des (voir Jenner) ...... Ponts, des .... Portes-St-Sauveur, d. Portes-St-Jean, des . Soeurs, pass, des . . Devillas, hospice .... Dhuis, de la Didier, Saint- Docks-Napoleon .... Domat Dombasle Dome, du Dominique, pass. St- . . . — , St- Domremy Dore, cite Douai, de Douane^ de la — , hotel de la . . . . Doubles, Pont-aux .... Dragon, du . . . . . Droit, ecole de Drouot Dubail, passage Dubois, impasse .... IN THE PLAN. 307 R.W.B. R.W.B. Dubois, passage- .... Ducouedic Dugommier Duguay-Trouin Duguesclin Dulac, passage Dulong Dumeril Duniont-d'Urville . . . . Dunkerque, de . . . Dunois Duperre Dupetit-Thouars .... Duphot Dupin Dupleix, place Dupleix . Dupleix, ruelle Dupont Dupuis Dupuytren Duquesne, avenue .... Duranti Duras, de Duret Duris Duroc . . Du Sommerard (anc. R. des Mathurins St. Jacques) . Dutot Duvivier . Eaux, passage des .... Eaux-de-vie, entrepot des . Eble Echaude-St-Germain , de V Echelle, de F . . . . . Echiquier, de F .... Ecluses-Saint-Martin, des . Ecole, impasse de F . . . Ecole-de-Medecine, de F Ecole Militaire Polytechnique, de F . Ecoles, des Ecouffes, des Ecuries nationales . . . Ecuries d'Artois, des . . . Eglise, de F (Grenelle) . . Eglise, place de F . . . . Egout, passage de F . . . Elisabeth, eglise Sainte- . Eloi, eglise Saint- .... Elysee, de F — , palais de F . . . . Elysee - des - Beaux - Arts, passage de F . . . . . Elzevier (anc. R. des Trois Pavilions) Embarcadere de Lyon . . — du Nord . . . . . — d'Orleans — de FOuest, rive droiie 10 10 Embarcadere de FOuest, rive gan e . /?>f^lr.\ >K. .Ip — de Strasbourg . . . — de Vincennes .... Emeriau Empereur, avenue de F . . Enfant-Jesus, imp. de F Enfants - Malades, hop. des Trouves, hospice des Enfer, boulevart d* 1 . . . — , place d" . . . . . — , d 1 Enghien, d" 1 — , hospice Entrepot, de F Entrepreneurs, des . . . Envierges, passage des . . Epee-de-Bois, de F ... Eperon, de F ..... Erard Ermitage, de F Esprit, seminaire Saint- Esquirol Essling, avenue d" ... Estrapade, place de F . . Estrees, d 1 Etat-Major de la Place . . Etat-Major, ecole d' . . . Etienne, eglise Saint- . . Bonne-Nouvelle, St- . Etoile, place de F . . . . — , impasse de F ... — , place de F .... d'Or, impasse de F . Eugene, eglise Saint- . . Eugenie, avenue Ste- . . . — , hopital Ste- . . ' . . — , impasse Ste- ... Euler Eupatoria, d" 1 ..... Europe, place de F . . . Eustache, eglise Saint- . . — , place St- Eveque, de F Eylau, avenue d 1 . . . . — , place d -1 Fabert Fagon Fargeau, St- . . . . . . Fauconnier . . . . . . Favart . Favorites, passage des . . Fecamp (anc. R. de la Croix Bercy) Felicite, de la Femmes-Incurables, hopital des Fenelon Fenoux . Fer-a-Moulin Ferdinand, place St- . . . 20 * 10 L3 308 LIST OF NAMES B.W.B. R.W.B. Ferdinandville , xite (voir Place St. Ferdinand) . . Ferraat . Ferme-de-Grenelle, de la . Ferme-des-Manthurins, de la Ferou . . . Ferronnerie, de la . . « . Fessart — , impasse Fetes, place des . • . . Feuillantines, des . . . . Feuillet, passage . . . . Feydeau Fiacre, passage St- . . . — , St- Fidelite, de la Figuier, du Filles-du-Calvaire , boulev. des Filles-du-Calvaire, des . . Filles-Dieu, des Filles-Saint-Thomas, des . Finances, ministere des Flandre, de Fleurus, de Florence de (Buttes-Chau- mont) — , de (Elysee) . . . . Florentin, St- Foin-au-Marais, du . . . Folie-Mericourt Folie-Regnault Fondary (Vaugirard) . . . Fontaine du But, de la . . Fontaine-St-Georges . . . Fontaine-au-Roi . . . . Fontaines, des Fontarabie, de Fontenoy, place Forge-Royale, pas. de la . Fortifications, depot des Fortin Fosses-St-Bernard, des . . St-Jacques, des . . . St-Marcel, des . . . St-Martin, des . . . du-Temple, des . . . St-Victor, des . . . Fouarre, du Four-St-Germain, du . . . Fourcy-St-Antoine, de . . Fourneaux, des ..... Fourneaux, passage des Fournial . France, college de . . . . Francois I er — , maison de .... — , place Francois-Miron Francois-Xavier, egl. Saint- Francs-Bourgeois, des . . 10 10 Franklin, Fremicourt Frequel, passage .... Freycinet Friedfcind, avenue .... Frochot Froissart . . Fulton Gabriel, avenue Gaillard, cite Gaillard, passage .... Gaillon Gaite, de la Galande Galilee Gallois, de Galvani Gambey • Garanciere Gare, boulevart de la . . — , de la — , quai de la .... Gaudelet, impasse . . Gay-Lussac Gaz, du Geoffroy-Didelot, passage . Genevieve, college Sainte- . Genie*, du Genty . Geoffroy-Saint-Hilaire . . GeofFroy-Langevin .... Geoffroy-Lasnier .... Geoffroy-Marie Georama, du Georges, place St- . . . . Georges, St- Gerard Gerbert Gerbier Gerbillon Germain, boulevart St- . . — , marche Saint- . . . FAuxerrois, eglise Saint- "Auxerrois, St- . . . des-Pres, eglise Saint- Gerson Gervais, eglise Saint- . . — , St- — , le Pre Saint- . . . Gevres, quai de .... Gilles, St- Ginoux Git-le-Coeur Glaciere, de la — , de la (Gentilly) . . Gobelins, avenue des . . Gobelins , manufacture des Gobelins, des Godefroy Godot de-Maurov .... IN THE PLAN. 309 R.W.B. R.W.B. Gomboust Goutte-d'Or, passage de la . Gouvion St-Cyr, boulevart . Gozlin ........ Gracieuse Grammont, de Grand Chantier, du . . • . Grand-Hotel Grand-Saint-Michel, du (voir du Terrage) Grand-Prieure, du . . . . Grande- Armee, aven. de la Grande-Chaumiere, de la . Grande-Truanderie, de la . Grands- Augustins, quai des Grands-Augustins, des . . Grange-Bateliere, de la . . Grange-aux-Belles, de la . Gravilliers, des Gregoire-de-Tours . . . . Grenelle, boulevart de . . — r gare de Gros-Caillou, pass, de Saint-Germain, de . . Saint-Honore, de . . Grenelle, quai de . . . . Grenetat (anc. R. Beaure- paire) Grenier-Saint-Lazare . . . Gretry Greuze Greve, quai de la (voir Quai de FHotel de Ville) . . Griset, cite Groult-d'Arcy (voir Abbe Groult) Guemene, impasse . . . Guenegaud Guerre, depot de . . . . — , ministere de la . . . Guillaume (voir Bude) . . — , cour St- — , St- Guilleminot Guisarde Guy-Patin Guy-de-la-Brosse .... Guyot Haies, des Halevy Halle Halle au ble Halle aux vins Halle-aux-Veaux, place . . Halles centrales .... Hambourg, de Hameau, du Hamelin Hanovre, de Harlay-du-Palais, de . . . au-Marais, de . . . 10 L0 10 14 Harpe, de la Harvey Hasard, du Hassard Haussmann, boulevart (voir Victor Hugo) Hautefeuille Hauteville Hautpoul, d" Hautes-Gatines, des . . . — -Vignolles, des . . . Havre, galerie du . . . . — , du (Batignolles) , voir Pouillet — , du Haxo Hebrards, ruelle des . . . Helder, du Helene Henri-Chevreau Henri IV., quai .... Hericart Herr Hilaire, St- Hippodrome Hippolyte, St- Homme-Arme, de P . . . Honore, marche Saint- . . — , Saint- — , du Faubourg-St- . . Honore-Chevalier .... Hopital, boulevart de F Hopital militaire .... Hopital-St-Louis, de V . . Horloge, quai de F ... Hotel-Colbert, de F . . . Hotel-Dieu Hotel du Louvre .... Hotel-de-Ville de-Ville, place de F . de Ville , quai de F (anc. quai de la Greve) de-Ville, de F . . . de-Ville-Batignolles (v. Rue des Batignolles) . Houdard Houdon Huchette, de la .... Humboldt Hyacinthe-St-Honore, St- . Iena, avenue d 1 .... — , pont d" 1 — , d 1 Immaculee Conception, Col- lege de F Imperatrice, avenue de F (voir Av. Uhrich) . . . Imperatrice, de F (v. Rue de la Republique) . . . Imperatrice, cirque de F, voir Cirque d'Ete . . 14 12 7 10 2 10 8 7 10 7 10 10 13 310 LIST OF NAMES R.W.B. R.W.B. Imprimerie nationale . . 9 7 IncurablesFemmes, hosp.des 6 Joseph, chapelle Saint- . . 11 — Homines , hospice des 11 — St- 7 Industrie, pass, de V . . 9 Josephine, avenue . . ... 1 — . passage de F (Grenelle) 2 5 8 4 Institut , palais et place 7 7 7 Instruction publique, mi- 10 5 Juge 2 Intendance militaire . . . 5 10 Interieur, ministere de V . 3 1 Invalides, boulevart des 4 L3 — , esplanade des . . . 4 i'2 3 Julien-Lacroix 12 3 7 7 11 to 13 g K) Islv, passage d 1 (Popincourt) — , d 1 Justice, ministere de la . . 5 5 [ 8 10 — , place d 1 (voir Pinel) . 7 Keller . . ' V2 9 1 2 Italiens, boulevart des . . 7 Kussner, passage .... 1 i 6 •2 Jacques, boulevart St- . . 7 Laborde, marche . ... • 4 Labourdonnaie, avenue . . 4 — , St- 8 g 8 — , du Faubourg St- . . Jacques - de - la - Boucherie, m 1 10 Lafayette, place de . . . \2 1(1 8 10 — , de 7 Jardin-des-Plantes .... 10 Laferriere, passage . . . 8 3 7 13 14 — , ruelle des .... 11 9 10 5 8 2 2 Jean-Baptiste, eglise St- 2 8 Jean-Bart 6 Lambert, eglise St- ... 2 10 — , St- 1 8 Lamothe-Piquet, avenue de 4 3 14 Jean-Jacques-Rousseau . . 1 9 7 10 3 1 8 \) Lappe (anc. R. Louis Phi- Jemmappes, quai .... 9 lippe) 10 Jenner (anc. R. des Deux- 4 9 Lariboissiere, hopital . . 10 to 11 Jeunes - Aveugles, liopital La Rochefoucauld , hospice des . .' h — , de (Montrouge) voir Jeunes-Detenus, prison des 11 de Liancourt .... 5 7 6 Joinville, passage .... L2 8 i; :» IN THE PLAN. 311 R.W.B. R.W.B. Lathuile, passage .... C Latour d'Auvergne, de . . 8 2 Latour - Maubourg, boulev. 3 Lions-Saint-Paul, des . . 10 Laugier 4 Laumiere, avenue .... L2 10 9 8 1 Loire, quai de la . . . . 12 1 1 7 8 Londres, cite de .... G 7 G Lavieuville (anc. R. de la 1 8 1 5 Louis, eglise St- .... — , hopital Saint- . . . 5 i 9 7 9 Lazare, prison St- . . . . 10 5 13 8 Lazaristes, couvent des . . G Louis, pass. St- .... 10 2 5 4 Louis, St- (Grenelle), v. 9 2 7 Louis, St- (Plaisance), v. des G 2 10 Lefebvre, boulevart . . . I Louis-le-Grand, lycee, v. 4 12 8 10 2 Louis-Philippe, pont . . . Louis-Philippe (voir Lappe) 5 3 10 Leonard de Vinci (anc. R. Christine Passy) . . . .' 1 Leonidas, passage .... G 5 2 Louvain, de (Belleville) . . 13 — (Montmartre), voir des — , de (les Ternes) . . . Trois Freres .... 8 Louvois, place 2 5 12 LI Louvre, palais du . . . . 7 7 Lepage, passage .... 7 7 7 — , quai (voir Quai de 7 8 Lowendal, avenue de . . 4 12 1 G 3 LO Luxembourg, avenue du 7 1 Lesage 11 8 10 I — , Petit 5 8 2 7 12 4 3 8 8 14 8 Macons, des (voir Cham- Liancourt, de (anc. R. La g Rochefoucauld Montrouge) 5 Madame, de, Charonne, 14 14 Madeleine, boulevard de la • r ) II — , eglise de la . . . . 5 5 5 312 LIST OF NAMES R.W.B. R.W.B. Madelonnettes, prison des , Mademoiselle Madrid, de Magdebourg, de Magellan . ' . Magenta, boulevart de . . — , de (voir Montbrun) . Magloire, St- Magnan Mail, du Maillot, porte Main-d'Or, passage de la . Maine, avenue du . . . . — , impasse du . . . . — , place du Mairie, de la (voir Lavieu- ville) — , place de la (voir du Commerce) .... Maison-Dieu Maitre-Albert Malakoff, avenue de . . . Malaquais, quai . . . . Malar Malebranche Malesherbes, boulevart . . — , cite — , place de Malher Malte, de Mandar Mande, avenue St- ... Mansart Manutention, de la ... Marais, des Marbeuf, avenue .... Marbeuf Marc, St- Marceau Marcel, boulevart St- . . — , chapelle Saint- . . . Marces, impasse .... Marche, du d'Aguesseau, du (voir Montalivet) .... aux-Chevaux, av. du Saint-Honore, du . . Neuf, quai du . . . — des Patriarclies, pass, du Mare, de la Marguerite, eglise Sainte . Marguerite-St-Antoine, Ste- Marie, Ste- (Ternes), voir Brunei — , Ste- (Grenelle) . . . St-Antoine, cour Ste- St-Antoine, pass. Ste- du Temple, pass. Ste- Marie, pont Marie-Antoinette .... Marie-Stuart 13 12 12 14 10 Marie-Therese, hospice . . Marignan, de Martgny, avenue . . . . Marine, ministere de la . . Marivanx, de Marmontel Maronites, des . . . . . Marqfoy Marseile, de Martell Martignac Martin — , St- — , boulevart St- . . . — , canal Saint-. . . . — , eglise Saint- .... — , porte Saint- .... — , du Faubourg-St- . . Martyrs, des Masseran Maternite, hospice de la Mathurins-St-Jacqiies, des (voir. Du Sommerard) Matignon, avenue . . . . Matigfion Maubert, place Maubeuge, de Maublanc Mauconseil Maur, cite Saint- .... — , cour St- — , St- St-Germain, St-, voir des Missions .... Maure, du Maurice, passage . . ... Maurice-Meyer Mayet Mayran Mazagran (Plaisance) . . Mazagran Mazarine Mazas, boulevart .... — , place — , prison Meaux, de ...... Mechain Medard, eglise Saint . . . — , St- Medeah Medecine, Ecole de . . . Medicis, de Megisserie, quai de la . . Menages, hospice des . . Menars, de Menilmontant — , boulev. de .... — , rue Mercier Merlin . IN THE PLAN. 313 R.W.B. R.W.B. Merry, eglise Saint- . . . Meslay Mesnil Messageries Nationales . . Messageries, des . . . . Messine, avenue de . . . Metz, de Mexico, de Meyerbeer Meynadier Mezieres, de Michel, boulevart St- . . fc — , fontaine Saint- . . . — , place St- .... . — , pont St- — , quai St- Michel-le-Comte Michodiere, de la . . . . Midi, cite du Midi, hopital du . . . . Mignottes Milan, de Mines, ecole des . . . . Minimes, des Missions, des (anc. R. St- Maur-St.-Germain) . . . Missions-Etrangeres, eglise et seminaire des . . . Mobilier de la Couronne Mogador, de — , de (Belleville), voir Tlemcen Moineaux, des Molay Moliere Monceau (anc. B. Valois du Roule) Monceau, de — , pare de Moncey Mondetour Monge Monjol . .' Monnaie, de la Monnaies, hotel des . . . Monsieur, de Monsieur-le-Prince .... Montagne - Ste - Genevieve, de la Montagnes, des (Les Ternes), voir Belidor — , des (Belleville), voir Bisson Montaigne, avenue . . . Montalivet (anc. R. du Marche d\A.guesseau) . . Montbrun (anc. R. Magenta Montrouge) Montebello, quai .... Montempoivre 14 12 11 10 Montenotte (anc. R. Plaine Terne) , Montesquieu , Montfaucon Montgallet Montholon Montmartre — , boulevart — , cimetiere du . . . . — , du Faubourg- . . . Montmorency Montorgueil Mont-Parnasse, boulevart . — , cimetiere du ... — , du ...... . Montpensier Mont-de-Piete Montreuil, de ...... Montrouge, boulevart de . Montsouris, avenue de . . Mont-Thabor, du . . . . Montyon Mo ra nd Moreau Moret Morillons, des — , impasse des .... Morland, boulevart . . . Morny Moscou, de Moselle, de la Mouffetard Moufle, passage .... Moulin-de-Beurre, du . . Moulin-de-Pres, du . . . Moulin- Vert, du .... Moulin-de-la-Vierge, du . . Moulins, des ...... Mouton-Duvernet .... Muette, avenue de la. . . Muette, de la Mulhouse, passage .... Murillo Murs-de-la-Roquette, des Musard, concerts .... Nancy, de Nanettes, ruelle des . . . Naples, de Napoleon, cirque, voir Cirque d'Hiver — , cite — , square (Belleville) Napoleon, lycee, voir Lycee Corneille Napoleon III, pont . . . — , place — , quai Nationale Nativite, de la (anc. R. du Commerce Bercy) . . . Navarin, de 12 10 1 12 L0 7 10 8 13 8 14 314 LIST OF NAMES R.W.B. R.W.B. Necker, hospice Nemours, de . . . . ■ . . Neothermes Neuf, Pont Neuilly, avenue de . . . Neuve-Saint-Augustin . . — , de Berry . . . ; . des-Bons-Enfants, voir Radziwill — -Bossuet des-Boulets . . . . Bourg-FAbbe . . . des-Capucines . . . — -Sainte-Catherine . . St-Etienne-du-Mont . Fenelon — -Guillemin . . . . — -de-Lappe, voir des Taillandiers . . . . des-Martyrs . . . . des-Matliurins . . . Saint-Medard ... Saint-Merry . '. . . Pernetty des-Petits-Champs . . — St-Roch — -de-la-Tombe-Isoire — -de-FUniversite (v. Pre aux Clercs) .... de-Vanves (v. de Fourneaux) .... Nevers, de Neveux, passage . . . . Newton Nice, de Nicolai' Nicolas, chapelle Saint- . . — , cloitre Saint- . . . — , imp. St- Nicolas