Gd Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015 https://archive.org/details/briefaccountofso00brow_0 A Brief Account OF SOME TRAVELS STTRIA, CARINTHIA. I N HVNGARIA, I r AVS TRIA, SERVIA, BULGARIA, ■>■ MACEDONIA, CARNIOLA, THESSALY, _ ,and FRIULI. As alfo Some Obfervations on the Gold, Silver , Copper, Quick-fiver &Mmes, Baths, and liner d Waters in thofe parts : _ - \ With the Figures of fome Habits and Remarkable places By E D W A R D BROWN M. D e of the College of LONDON , Fellow of the R.Society, and Phyfician in Ordinary to His M A J E S T Y. LONDON, Printed by T. R. for Benj. Hooke , and are to be Sold at the Sign of the Ship in St. Pauls Church -yard , 1673. . !.A % > , c \xD -h :y.l ill • : ;: ? ■ . ■•■; ; - ;u vVHl 0 li a' : IOV (I 3a v. r ! i • ;v; o c rr o' A ' > :• ’ - • # • :' • •• A ." i . - : 2 TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE HENRY Lord MARQUIS of DORCHESTER, Earl of KINGSTON, Vifcount NEWARK, Lord PlERREPONt, MANNERS , and HERRIR ; AND One of the Lords of His MAJESTIES molt Honou* rable Privy Council. MY LORD, F Ambition had not made it al- ready the cufiom of many P art? of Europe , which pretend to be the moft literate , and miverfally know- ing , to dedicate their Books’ not onely to great Princes 3 and Heroes 3 and to the Di j minorum gentium , but alfo to afcend higher , and offer them ( how mean foever THE EPISTLE they be') even to Omnifciency , and Omni- potency , I Jhould be afraid to prefent any thing fo inconfiderable to fogreataPer- fon. Tour Lordjhip is our particular Pa- tron, and you have obliged all our Faculty for ever , by fo noble a condefcenjion of your Lordjhips, as : that of honouring the College of Phyfitians n>itb your Name , and being one of their Society. Some Princes in former Ages have not thought it below their greatnefs to loo\ into a Profeffion fo ufefull to man- kind , and fome of great birth have made it their Employment all their life- time : but to compare them ta your Lord- fhip would be to be injurious to your great Name ; and we will eafily forget to boafl of Abenhali, Alhafen , Ebenhali, Ebenfina Prince o/'Corduba , fince your Lordjhip hath given ms leave to glory in the Name of Dorchefter , Kingfton , Newark, dedicatory. Newark, Pierrepont, Manvers and Her- rir. All our Labours, Studies , Travels , and Induflry , can never arrive at that ac - complement , to return thanks hand- fomly for that gentile way your Lordjhi p hath found out to honour us ; and yet your Lordjhip is p leafed to accept of the poor Attempts of him that is the mojl inferior of them. 1 can onely fay that your Lord- fhip confirms that Ambition and Ardem 1 alwayes had to be, MY LORD,' Your Lordfhips Moft devoted and moft humble Servant, EDWARD BROWN. TO THE READER. B pgpS I V I N G in an Age lo cu- |jl|j rious,and inquifitive,and with- 103 all fo induftrious , that every day adder h new Informations , and Accounts , both of our own Coun- try and forraign parts ; The Candor alio and ingenuity of many being liich, that they will eafily accept of (mall Attempts to manifeft any thing of Art or Nature, I am encouraged to publifli thele few Sheets of what occurred to me in fbme remote parts of Europe. The laft year 1 found it not amils , that I cauled to be Printed in Englijh a Dilcourle of the O- riginal , Country , Manners , Govern- ment, and Religion of the Coffacfy, with another of the Prascopian Tartars , pd the Hiftory of the Wars of the Cojfacfy b againft To the RE ADER. againft Poland , and if this year I put forth lb me Oblervations, and fhort Re- marks , made in Hungaria , Servia , Bul- gariaJVLacedoniay&c. I am bold to hope for a kind acceptance from Civil, Learn- ed, and worthy Perfons. Nor could I well omit (""having feen lb many places in Hungary 3 and had opportunity of con- version with many of the Country) to make a. general Delcription thereof. Having alfo lb favourable an opportu- nity to view the Bath’s, Mineral-waters, and Mines of that Country , and by the Ipecial favour of Signor Gianelli , the chief Officer, and Count of the Mine- Chamber , oblerved many things in the Copper, Silver, and Gold Mines,I hope you will excule fo long aDilcourlc therof. And although it were a hard and un- ulual Journey , yet a fair opportunity at Vienna carried me unto the Ottoman Court To the READER. Court at Larijfa through a good part of the j European Turtle a which having been pafled by fewEnglifo men, I thought fbme account thereof might be admitted as containing many things which are not ufaally delivered 3 although it intendeth not the JDelcription of the T urfyjh Pow-^ er, Greatnels 5 and Policy , which hath been already fo well performed by others. Oblervation of natural Remarkables, in Hilly , and Mountainous Countryes, inclined me chiefly unto my journey from Vienna to Venice } but underftand- ing there was not fo much to be oblerved in the common Road , I fetched a com- pals., and came about, paffing from place to place , according as remarkable things or curiofities invited ; and made my re- turn to Vienna 3 by the Road , or little out of it , that I might have the better variety in that Journey. b 2 I To the READER. I was unwilling to charge this Work with numerous Cuts , and Prints; and therefore have inferred but a few, al- though I was not unprovided of many more, to the number of an hundred; proper to this Work , of Habits , Po- nures , Hills , Caftles , Forts, Monafte- ries, Sepulchres, Fountains, Ruines, Me- dals, Coyns , Bridges , Columnes , Sta- tua’s, &C. rarely or not at all to be met with , which from my own rude draughts and dire&ions. I have caufed to be drawn in their proper colours fince my return. If any of thefe inferted be pleafing to your eye , or any thing mentioned here- in may be acceptable , I fhall be encou- raged hereafter to fet forth the Defcrip- tion of other parts, and places, but will atprefent detain you no longer from the reading of thefe. Edward Brown. C I ) T H E General Defcription HUNGARY. OW far HUNG ARIA exteedeth o* ther Countries of Europe in Mines* Baths, and Mineral-waters ; becaufe I have elfewhere given a particular account of fuch Subjedis, I fhall at prefent omit their repetitions, and at this time add fome other Confidera- bles; and in the firft place fay, That it aboundeth not only in thofe,but is alfo the beft Rivered Country in Europe : nor doth any region thereof afford fo many noble and ufeful Streams. On the Eaftfide it is waflied with that noble and Navi- gable River Eibifcus,Q r, the Tetfie, anting in the Country of Maromorw, at the foot of the high Carpathian hills: Which having received the Marifcut or Marijk , and many Rivers into it, runneth into the Danube, between Varadine, St. Re- fer, and Belgrade. By this River cometh down the great quantity of natural Stone-falt, brought from many Salt- mines in Hungary, and T ranfyhania,; whereof a great part is brought up the Danube to all places, as far as Eresburg ; (it being prohibited to be carryed any higher) leaft it fhould hinder the fale of the Salt 5 upon which B the < o the Emper bur hath an Impoft, and no fmall quantity alfo down the Danube , and afterwards up the River Morava into Servia y and neighbour Countries. On the Weft fide runs the River w Arabo or Rab, rifing in Styria, and running into the Danube by Javrinum or Rab . A confiderable River receiving the Lauffhinz, ficca , Guncz , and other Rivers into it. And now lately more famous , for the defeat of the 'Turks , under Jchmet the Grand Vizier , by the Imperial Forces, at St. Goihard, nigh this River. The difcourfe hereof was frefh, when I was at the City of Rab: and many I found, who fa w the corps of Men and Horfes floating in that ft ream. Upon the Southern -parts, are confiderable the River Dravus or Drau , which arifing in the Territory of Saltz^ burgland, a part of old Koricum , runneth a long courfe through Carinthia and Hungary , and falleth into the Da- nube, near Erdoed,or old Teutoburgium; after it hath pafied from its head about three hundred miles. About its en- trance into Hungary, it receiveth into it the long River Mur; and, far above this, nearer its original I found it a confiderable ftream : having pafied the fame by a good Bridge as high as Villach or ViUaeo , and between Clagenfurt , and Mount Leubell in Carinthia , I pafied the fame alfo by two long Wooden Bridges, and an Ifland in the middle between them. On the fame fide is alfo the noble River Saws, or the Sou ; which arifing in Carinthia , entreth the Danube at Belgrade; continuing a long courfe of about three hun- dred miles, and fweliing by the accefilon of many good Rivers. Being at Carmdumm or Crainburg, an handfome Town, not far diftant from the head, it appeared a con- fiderable ftream ; which is afterwards fo enlarged , as to have remarkable Wands in it , as that of Metubaris, to the Weft of old Sirmium , and that of Sigejlica or Sijfeck , ( 3 ) by Zagrabia , containing of o!d a ftrong and famous Town ; unto which the Old Romans brought their Com- fnodities from Jquileia , and fo by Land to Labach or Nau- portus\ From thence imo Segejlica, and forwards, for the fupply of thofe Provinces, and their Garrifons and Forces in them. Between thefe two noble Currents of the Dra- va* and the 5'^^,-lyeth a fair and long Inter-amnian Coun- try, wherein Solyman the Magnificent chofe a fafe retreat, until he came to Belgrade : when, with about four hun- dred thoufand men, which he brought to take Vienna, he dared not to meet the Forces of Charles the Fifth, then en- camped before that City. Upon the North part of Hungary , are the Rivers arifing from the Carpathian Mountains which divide Roland and Hungary ; more particularly the River G ran, which run- neth into the Danube , overagainft Strigonium or Gran ; and alfo the River Waag or Vagus , which cometh in above Comara: which Stuckius , an ocular witnefs, conceivetb to equal the Ro in Italy. I am fure, at Freijlat , above fifty miles, before it difchargeth into the Danube , it is a very large Stream, and hath a long Bridge over it ; part where- of was broken down by the Ice, the fame year when I was there. And far above it, nearer the head , there is alfo a confiderable Bridge at Trenfchin , a fair Town, which giveth the name unto that Country , and much reforted unto, forks hot Baths, and Mineral Waters ; having no lefs than thirty two plentiful Springs. The great Dambius or T honau continueth its ftream quite through Hungary ; and no one Province hat h a larger fhare of it ; for accounting from the City of Ulme in Srrabenland or Suevia , where it beginneth to be Naviga- ble , it continueth a long courfe , pafling by Ingoljlad , Rat is bone y Straubing , Rajfau , Lint and Vienna, unto RreJ- burg \ from whence through Hungary it maketh a courfe B 2 - of of above thre hundred miles , before it paffeth by Bel- grade : To omit the long ftream thereof in its farther pro- grefs, when having wafted the ftoars of Servia, Bulgaria, Wallachia , and 'Moldavia , with many mouths it entreth the Buxine or Black Sea : having in this long paffage drank in above fixty confiderable Rivers *, and in feber account performed a courfe of above fifteen hundred miles. Whereby it may tolerably admit the double name of Dambius , and IJler, properly applyed unto diftinft parts thereof. So that, although I have feen the Danubius , for about feven hundred miles ; yet cannot tell, whether I may cer- tainly fay, that I have feen any part of IJIer. For Strabo afcribcth that name unto it , below its CataraBy or great fall, which happeneth about Axiopolis, in Mcefia inferior, or Bulgaria . But ^Appianut, and later Account, define it to begin at its concurrence with the Savut, at Belgrade : and if fo, yet we had but a ftort fight of the Ifier ; which tra- veiling more up into Servia , we were faiiito leave at Hif- fargich. And of this JJler or lower part of the River, many things are fpoken ana related by the Ancients , which are not fo plainly verifiable of Danubim. Befides thefe large Rivers above named , there are fome others, taken notice of alfo by Bliny ; and efteemed Bluvii non igmbiles. The Sarvizza , or Orpanuty arifing near Vef pripium, and palling by Alba Regain , runneth into the Danube, which I paffed over at Jeni , ormvaBalan\a. The River Walpo or Vulpanw, arifing above the Town of Walpo, which was taken by Solyman, , in his march to Alba Regality or Stull-Wetifenburg. We paffed over it by Walco- var , and the River Bofneth or Bacvnthtcs > which runneth into the Savut, not far from old Sirmium. As this Country excelleth in Rivers , fo hath it alfo many confiderable and long Bridges ; there is a long Bridge P— ; vj2> JllL. ■. ' ‘"c J '4 ■ ~ ;: . fiW: ;.. "H; * ( s ) Bridge of Boats over the Danube, between Strigoninm and Barchan] which is the fir ft Bridge on this River, which we meet with from the great Wooden Bridge at Vi- enna, which takes above two thoufand Trees to plancher it. Upon t he fhoar of S i.jindrews IJIand , by Virouichitz I took notice of a mine of Stones , where the Turks to d us> there had been formerly a Stone Bridge : But the Turks in thefe parts, think it beft to make Bridges of Boats ; which they fo handfomly contrive , as to open a pafTage for Boats, and Veffels of burthen to pafs; fo that he that beholds thofe in thefe parts, will not wonder at the Bridges of Boats at Rouen , and Grenoble in France - , Be* tween Buda and Pejl , there is a Bridge of Boats over the Danube , where it runneth all in one ftrcam, of above half a mile long; the beft I have feen of this kind, and if Sigifmund had lived to effeft his defign r of making a nota- ble Stone-Bridge in this place , there had probably been no Bridge in Europe to compare with it. There is alfo a Bridge at Calocza $. formerly an Jrchbifbop " s Sea, and a handr - feme and well-contrived Bridge, by Walcovar over the River Walpo. But that of Effeck , or Murfa of old, is fcarce to be parallel’d with any other;built partly over the Drat zm 9 and partly over the Fenns , which are often over- flowed. The Bridge is five miles at leaft in length , having Towers built upon it at the diftance of every quarter of a mile : It is handfomly railed on each fide , and fupported by great Trees, erefted under it ; nine or ten in a rank, unto each Arch. That part of the Bridge 3 which was built over the Dravus, was burnt down by Count Nicho* las Serin> in the late Turkijh Wars between Leopolds the Firft, Emperour of Germany , and Sultan Mahomet the Fourth : and is now fupplyed by a Bridge of Boats, fomo- what below the former ; which I palled over in Septern* her, 1669. The Turks did not rebuild it in the fame place, becaufe ( 6 ) f-becaufe the Supporters below the water , when the fire ceafed, were fo ftrongly fafined and hard, that it would have coft them too great a labour, to get them up. By this Bridge the Turkt/b Forces pafis into Hungary : and at this place the unfortunate King Ludovicos thought to have flopped the Turkijb Army, which marched under Selyman. And lately Count Serini undertook a long march to burn ■ the fame, to prevent fupplies from coming to the Vijier, who was with his Army in other parts of Hungary. And as thereare ftill many Bridges over the upper Da- nube , fo have there alfo been in old time upon the lower, or Ifirian part thereof. Darias King of Ferjia made a Bridge of Boats over that mouth of the IJler, called OJHum Sacrum. Nicephoros relates, that Conjiantine bui It a Stone Bridge over it. But the mod remarkable and admirable Bridge, was that , built by the Emperour Adrian , and defcribedby Dion theHiflorian : whereof there are flill dome ruines, not far from Sever in , about twenty Hunga- rian miles from Belgrade. This Bridge confided of twenty piles of fquare Stone of an hundred foot high , befides the foundation : of fixty foot in breadth, and the didance between each of them one hundred and feventy foot ; and conjoyned by Arches , upon the which was this Jnfcri- ption, PROVIDENTIA AUG. VERE PONTIFICIS VIRTUS ROMANA QUID NON DOMAT ? SUB JUGUM ECCE RAPITUR ET DANUBIUS. And, as a Memorial hereof, many Roman Coynes were ftamped , and fome in Silver , not yet rare among us ; with this Infcription, D A N U V I U S. No ( 7 ) No River affordeth fo large and peopled Hands. Be- tween Vicegrad and Facia , there is a fair and large Ifiand 3 called S ujdndrews Ifland. Another a lit Je below Evda, againft the w eft fide of which Hands Adom^xie ndingforiy miles; and exceeds that of the IJIe of containing many Villages in it ; upon part whereof the Turkifh Forces en- campedjwhen they came to raife the ChriJHan Siege at Eh - da^nd was the great omifiion and error of the Chriftians, that they Fortified not in that Ifland c Another , againft Mohatch: another, about the entrance of the Drawn* ;zxxd a new one hard by Belgrade y made by the fetling of the Silt or Oufe brought down by the Savm , and the Danube ; where thirty five years ago there was no face of an Ifland^ blit is now full of Trees ; how this may advantage, or dif- ad vantage Belgrade, future times may fliew. But the lurks are fo fecure and fearlefs of any Forces, that may ever hurt them in theft' parts, that they have no confedera- tion of fuch things. And allowing the River Lejta to be the boundary of Jujlria, the Ifland of Schut, or Inf da Ci - tuorum will prove rnoft confiderable of any; containing many good Towns , as Comora, Samar iem\ befides very many Villages. And paffing through it , I found it well peopled, and ordered againft incurfions ; wherein there have been divers, formerly made by lurks , Tartars ,, and: Rebellious Forces. No River whatfoever, lb far from its difeharge into the Sea, affordeth more Naval Vefiels of ftrength and fuffi- ciency for Fight ; nor hath any afforded the like fignal engagements and encounters, at this diftance from the Sea. The Emperour hath fome Vefiels of War handfomly built, like Gallies at Vienna , Presbnrg , and Comora ; and an Jr- feml for provifion of many, upon occafiom The lurk at Strigonium , B#da P Belgrade ? and other places be- low. At C 8 ) . At the Siege of Belgrade, (^Mahomet the great brought TwVjpp Hifror two k unc *r e d Ships and Galleys, well ap* ^ 1 P 1 x ° Yy ' pointed, up the ftream. And the Hungarians feat fo many down the ftream, from Buda , that, after a fharp encounter, they took twenty of the Turkijh VefTels, and forced the reft on lhoar, near the Camp ; fo that , to prevent falling into the Enemies hand, <*J\tahomet was fain to caufe them to be fet on fire. The Chrifiians had a great Fleet at the Siege of Buda , when all m mifcarried tinder Count Regenfdorjf, For the Hiftory delivers, that the Chriftian Fleet confifted of four and twenty Galliots, about fourfcore finall Pinnaces, and little lefs then an hundred Ships of burthen, and other great Boats. By the help of fuch Naval Veftels Wolfgan - gm Redder did a good piece of fervice, when Solyman befieged Vienna ; for he came out of Preshurg with armed Veftels, and funk the Veftels fent froumJW^ with the great Ordnance, to batter the Walls of Vienna 0 And as this Country aboundcth in Rivers , fo is it not without fome notable Lakes, as the Lake Balaton or Plat- fee, or Volcaa ©f Old , extending a great length between Veftrinium and the Dravm , with fome ftrong Forts upon it. This Lake pur a ftop unto the cruelty of Solyman § Souldiers, who deftroyed all from Buda unto the Lake Balaton . And fince it Jyeth on the Eaft of the River Leyta, we may alfo reckon in the Newfidler Sea, a pleafant Lake ieven German miles long, and three broad : fo called from A r evpfidel } a final! Town, of one ftreet and fome backward Houfes, with a frnall fquare Caftle upon an Hill by it, from whence I had a good profpeft over all the Lake. In the Commotions of Botfcay , fourteen Villages about this Lake were burnt, by Turks , Tartars , and rebellious Heyducks. The Hungarians call it Terteu, and B liny, Peifi . It is in the middle way between Vienna and Sabaria , the birth- C 9 ) birth-place of Saint Martin. The long extended plain of Famous, in Paraguay in jimerica, exceedeth all others, as being two Thoufand Miles in Length. And I have heard that famous Navigator Captain Nat borough lay, who not long fince, was Commander of the Svoeepflakes ; and made a Voyage in her into the South- Sea ; that there is all low Land from the River of Plate, unto the middle of the Straights of Magellan . Mofcovia and Poland have long Plaines , but many of them Woody, and obfcured by Trees ; but none more open and clear plains then this Country. The greateft Plains I have obferved in England, are thofe of Salisbury, Lincoln , and New- Mar- ket. But thefe are but long Walkes , compared with thofe of Hungary ; and are exceeded by the plaines of Aujlria , from Vienna unto Mount Simmer en , unto the Borders of Styria . And though the Upper Hungary be Hilly, and plentiful in Wood; yet are there large Plains below. I Travelled from Vienna to Belgrade, about four hundred Miles, upon continued and not interrupted Plains; which often appeared like the Sea, without any vifible Eminencies, only a fliort and plain Wood, by Buna, and Shilberg , beyond Dot is ; and if we reckon the full of this Plain, it will prove much longer exten- ding from Mount Kalenberg or Cetius , two German miles 4 weft ward of Vienna and fo beyond Belgrade , ftill along the North fide of the Danube, unto the Borders of Walachia ; which will make a larger extent, than the fa- mous long Walk from j4gra to Labor in India. This plainnefs of the Country, aftordeth an handfome way of Travelling in open Chariots, carrying one-er two Men with a Charioter, drawn by two or three, fometimes four Horfes of a Breaft ; and room endugh to lye down. In this manner l travelled from Bn da ip Belgrade , over fair large Plains; and many miles upohGreen-Swarthe, C and C 10 ) ami unworne waye $ ; efpecially In the County of Sir- mitt m or Schremnid) as they now call it. No Country hath fj large a fhare of Capital Cityes upon the Danube ; for whereas from the courfe thereof from Ulme unto 'Belgrade, there are reckoned Ten very confiderable ones , there are no lefs then four thereof, that is F ref burg , Strigonium , Buda, and Belgrade ac- counted unto Hungary \ and Buda , with the addition of Fejl , on the otherfide the water, feemes to be the lar- ged of them all ; and I believe the larged alfo of any up- on that Stream. And as this Country excelled! in Rivers , fo is it very abundant iwFifhes . The Tibifcus or Feiffe, is edeemed the mod Fifhy River in Europe, if not in the World; info- much, that they have a common faying, T hat it conjijleth of two parts jf Water , and one of Fifls- And the River Bodrack which runnes into the Fibifcm, not far from 7o - kay , is foreplen iflied with Fijb, that in the Summer when the River is low, the People fay the Water fmells of Fife And this is no (mail River , but as I had the account from a Commander, who purpofely made it for me when he paffed it , was thirty Fathoms broad, and eight and an half deep *but being of this Figure it could not be well Fifhed with Netts. Which exceeding fertility &£ any will aferibe unto Saline Tin- ctures, both of its own dream , and others accefiionary into it, which lick the many natural Salt-Mines under ground, and fo may carry fome principles of fecundity with them, it may admit of consideration. Th t Danube aboundeth in many good Fifbes: zsFrouts, Perches, large and delicious Carpes, exceeding any I have feen; andbe- ddes many others, a Fife called Ccppen, a kindeof Ca- pito ; a Bifcurne , or kind of Lamprey ; a Grundel, or fpotted kinde of Cobites } with fix Beards , twofeort, and Cn ) and four longer; a large Fifh much exceeding a Pike , called Scheyden , a Silurus Gefneri : and above all, there is atfome feafons great floreof Hufones, called by them Haufons: whereof fame are twenty foot long ; efleemed a very good dill), and fomewhat like Sturgeon. There are fet Fifhing-places and Store-houfes upon the fide of the Danube ; whereof the higheft is above Comoro, 3 upon Schut-JJland , but the greateft Fifhingis about Kilio , in Walachia ; where they fait them, and fend them intoother parts ; they come out of the Euxine Sea . As the Rivers are full of Fifih , fo are they covered with Fowle, in the Winter; Swans I obferved none in the Danube , but many other Fowles ; and fame Pelicans, not far from Belgrade. As the Waters are alfo fruitful in Fill], fo the Land a- boundeth in other Provisions \ and very eminently in the two fupporters of Life, B read and Wine : their Bread is hardly exceeded by any in Europe ; worked up and kneaded with long continued labour; and fo made light, wholefome , and well tailed ; and at fo cheap a rate , that for two pence as much is afforded there, as twelve pence with us in England. And indeed in all the Tnrkijh Dominions , where I travelled, I met with fo good and well tailed Bread, that with Wine, it was to me a Feafl: ; and with Water a fufficient Repafh Grapes they have very delicious and large; thofeat Virovichitz by Vacia^ are of eminent Note, Wines alfo of a generous and noble fort, the Wines of Tokay are highly eiieemed ; the Simian Wines are very rich and pleafant, in the South part of Hungary : in which Province, the Emperour Prebus is faid to have planted Vines f about Mount j4lmus , or Jr- potato. In many other places the Wines are very noble ; and fome brought unto Vienna, where there are above thir« ty forts of Wines to be fold, brought from feveral part?/ C 2 And ( 12 ) And as the ground is not unfruitful in its own nature, fo they are not without the pra&ife of Good-Husbandry , both in their Arable, and Pafture Grounds : efpecially in Upper-Hungary, and parts not fubjefled to the Turks . I being there, about the end of February, faw every night all the Country about us on Fire ; occafioned, by bur- ning the Stubble and Grafs and Hearbs; which af- terwards , arofe with plenty again. They ufe. not Barnes, or Stacks of Corn* but have many deep and large Caves under Ground , wherein they lay it up fafe, both from Robbers and fudden incurfion of Ene- mies. At Clefch near Toopolchan , when the Turks and Tartars made their Inroades in the laftWarrs, the Peo- ple retired, and hid themfelves in fuch Cavities ; butfome, Turks , fpeaking Schlavonian , told them that the Coaft was clear, and the Enemy gone ; and fo tempting them out of their Holes, they were unfortunately deceived into Captivity, and carried away into remote Countreys ,, never to be heard of again. There is alfo great plenty of Deer, Hares, all forts of Poult rey , Partridges , and Phcefants', great ftore of Sheep ; which in divers places, have long Spiral Horns, and very long curled Wool!. And Oxen in great num- bers, whereof tis thought they fend an hundred thou* fand yearly into Italy , Germany , and other parts; and it is commonly faid , they have enough, toferve a great part of Europe . They are of a kind of Meufe - colour ; and the Eajlern Company at Vienna hath the pri- viledg to bring them, to furnifh that City. There are alfo Buffers, whereof they make no fmall advantage, In ploughing of theif Lands, efpecially in feme ftiff Grounds, where they muft elfe ufe five Yoaks of Oxen to a Plough; and one in my company told me that he had been fain to make ufe of fix Buffalo's, to draw alight Calleche , ( 13 ) Calleche , or Chariot through fome Grounds. Not far from Eotefech , there are Horfes alfo in very great num- ber, fome large, many tut fmall, yet fwift. I faw a Thou- fandof them belonging to the Peafants at Sone, Sene , or Senia,a Village upon the Danube, in the Contribution Country, not farr from Comar a. As they exceed in many things , fo they are peculiar in fome others; particularly in their Language, which is proper to themfelves , and different from any other. I went to a Church at Bitchka , where the Minifter prayed and Preached ; and though there were a very good Lih- guiftwith me,, who fpake Schlavonian , German, Turkijh, Vulgar Greeks, and Italian ; yet could he make nothing of it, or find affinity in it , with any other Language he knew. A Specimen hereof is fet down by Megiferus , of the Lords Prayer , in that Language. Mi Attyanck Ky vagy az menieghe , megh Szentel Teffeck az te newed, See?, In the like manner we were confounded by the Language of Albania, on the Northward part of Epirus , and weft of Macedonia . We made ufe of fome of that Countrey in paffing the Mountains , who were able to fpeak fomo Schlavonian : But as for Jlbanefe, or their own Language, wherein they were delighted to fing Day and Night, as they travelled with us, our beft Linguifts, both Turks, and CbriJUans , imderftood nothing of it. In fome parts of Hungary , many fpeak Schlavo- nian , at Freijlat, which the Hungarians call Colgotz , I obferved , that at the Church, the Sermon was in Schlavonian ; but at the Franciscans Church , in Hunga* nan. This incommunication in Speech, makes them to learn other Languages, and efpecially the Latin, which very great numbers fpeak , efpecially the Gentry and Souldiers , and I fcarce met with any el fe where , who ipake it more ready, then the Noble Graff Sacchy , Cover- C 3. nour: C 14 ) Hour of Dotis , and his Lieutenant Elvedy. I have alfb met with Coachmen , Watermen , and mean Perfons , who could make tfeemfelves underftood thereby* The Latin-Tongue is very ferviceable in Bulgaria and Eranfylvania : But below Belgrade of little help unto a Traveller, where that farr extending Language, the Schla- vonian prevailed}. And indeed, with the help of two Languages, German, and Scblavonian , a man may make a fhifc to Travel from Hamburg to the Borders of Tartary, and to Conjlantimple . And I have heard that the vonian a ? one is underftood from <®J Mcckelberg in Germany to the Cajpian Sea . And before we come to Belgrade , the Scblavonian enters again ; which is alfo fpoken in Servia , Bulgaria , B^W^,anda great part of Macedonia ; and in fo many other Countreys, that with this Language a Man may make a ftiift to be underftood from the A- dnatick-Shore of Dalmatia, unto the Tartarian Ocean . For we read in Furcbtts , that when the Hollanders returned from Nova Zembla ; the Inhabitants not very far off could fay, Dobre , and Nich Dobre ; that is, Good , and not GW; which are expreftlons of approving or disapproving, in the Scblavonian Language. The Turkijh Power fo much prevailing, orthreatning in thefe Parts ; itds in vain, to exped any great Univerjity beyond Vienna. Nor do I find that there hath been any very confiderable ones in this Countrey ; and though they have had many Bifhops, and learned men; yet they have had their Education many of them out of Hungary . As had alfo of old St. Jerome and St. Martin . And the present Hungarians , which addid themfelves unto Learning, efpecially thofe of Quality, do commonly Study at Vienna , Prague , or Brejlavp , a final! Univer- fity ? or publick Study there is at prefent at Schem - mtz. But ( IS) But the Hungarians may juftly boafl of early helps urr~- to learning, and a very Noble Library , Ere&edat by their King Matthias Corvims , Son of the famous Hunniades , about two hundred years ago; confiding of fome thoufands of Books, efpecially Greek and La- tine Manufcripts, not to be met with, or Purchafed elfe- where ; part whereof was difperfed into the Lurkijh Do- minions , when Solyman furprized that City; and a choice part thereof procured afterwards, for the Impe- rial Library , at Vienna , when Cufpinianns was Keeper thereof, divers whereof are marked with the Armes of Coy vims , a. Crow bearing a Gold Ring in his Beak ; which with many fucceeding additions, made by Bufbequius , Wolfgangus , Lazius, Lugger, and others; together with the choyceft Manufcripts , brought from the Imbrafian Library near Infpruch , by the Learned Petrus Lambe - tins, theprefent Library Keeper, makeup the fourfcore thoufand Volumes, now contained in the Emperours Libra- ry at Vienna, by the Efpecial favour of which worthy Per- fan, I had the honour, not only to fee many of the choyced and mod fpecious thereof together with many Noble Rarities in that place ; but to have any ufeful Book unto my private Lodgings. And at my coming away, he gave me a Catalogue of forne hundreds of Alchymicd Mann - fcrifts , which are in that Library, which I prefented to th t Royal Society , from him ; with leave to have any of them brought into England , or to be Transcribed at Vi- enna, if they pleaded. And if the three mod admirable BrafsStatua s which were placed at the entrance of Cor- were lately remaining there; wherein was ( ) was no eafie matter , to have a fight of them ; yet fo carelefly kept by the Turks , that Wormes , Mice and Rates were like to have the fpoil thereof Butth e at Buda 1669, hath now confumed them all. And as their Language is peculiar, fo is the opinion of their Crown ; of which they have the greateft efteem of any other Nation. This they commonly believe, to have been brought by an Angel from Heaven unto St. Stephen their King: And have fo high an eftimation thereof, that they think, the right and fate of the Kingdom goethwith the pofTeffion thereof Which makes them very wary in the cuftody of it , and in all adverfities to fecure it. And the Turk hath beenalwayes induftrious to ob« tain it. It was formerly kept in the Caftle of Vicegrad ; but at prefen t in that of Prefburg* And this opinion is probably founded upon theTra- Fitted * out or Story, how they came unto it ; which of cromrus. is thus Delivered. King Stephen intending to fettle the Chriftian Government in his King- dom , appointed two jfrch-BiJhops Sees ; Strigonium , which was the place of his Nativity , and Colocza\ and lent yfflricus Bifliop of Colocza to the Pope, to confirm the fame, together with his Kingdome, and to fend him a Crown , and other Royal Ornaments. At the fame time it fell out, that Mifca y King of Polonia , fent about the fame Errant : and a Crown was providing for him. But Pope Benedict the Eighth, in the mean time was warned' by an Angelical Jpparition, to fend the Crown unto King Stephen ; which accordingly he did, which probably be- got that great Veneration and high Opinion, they have e- ver fince had of it. The Crown it felf is alfo Angular in its Fafhion and Figure ; for it is a low Crown, with a Crofs upon it, with four Leaves or Turnings up about it ; one whereof is as large C 17 ) large as the other three, at leaft.as two thereof. It is no eafie favour to obtain a view of this Crown at Presburg > but I faw a model of it in the Treafure of the prefent Emperour Leopolds ; which was a Crown of Gold, a- dorned with many precious Stones , exadly made after thefaihionof the Hungarian Crown, and perhaps richer than the exemplar. Though the Hungarians want not Ingenuity , Induftry, and fufficient parts for Learning, and liberal Arts; yet have they been more addided unto ^ Martial affairs , than unto deep Learning : Even the Bifbops and Clergy-men proving flout Souldiers ; and no lefs than fix Bijheps were (lain, with their King Ludovicus , in that fatal Battle of Qjfylobatch. Some report, and others believe, that the famous Poet Ovid dyed and was buried in Hungary at Sabaria , feated at the confluence of the Rivers Guntz and Regnitz be- fore they run into the Rak Where it is reported, that he having been baniflied unto Pcmos, near the Buxine Sea , was at laft recalled , and in his return towards Italy dyed at Sabaria. Where ’tis faid his Tomb was found with this Epitaph, made by himfelf .* Hie Jitu4 eft fates , quern Divi Caefaris Ira Augufti, patria cedere juffit humo . Safe mifer voluit patriis occumbere t err is , Sed fruftra , hum illi fata dedere locum . Before I came into Hungary , I obferved no fiiadow ©rfliewof the old Pyrrhkal Saltation , or Warlike way of Dancing, which the Heyducks praftife in this Country* They dance with naked Swords in their hands, advancing, brandifliingand clafliing the fame ; turning, winding, ele- vating, and deprefling their bodies with ftrong and active D " motions ; ( i8 ) motions; fioging withal unto their meafures , after the manner of the Greeks . The mighty Afts of s Attila y King of this-Country, to- gether with the numerous Forces he brought out of thefe and the neighbouring parts, are very remarkable ; where- by he over-ran a confkierable part of Germany , and a great part of Italy : Sacked and burnt Aquileia ; and fought that memorable Battel with d/Etius the Roman Genera!, in Gamy is Cat alo nick, near Thloufe ; wherein ’tis faid were ten Kings prefent , and about two hundred thoufandflain : and, which is alfo obfervable, the Gene* rals on both fides were of thefe parts ; for jormn es. ^Ua was a Hunne , and ALtius a Majian , or Servian, of the neighbour Country. And in fucceeding ages, how far and widely the Kings of Hungary enlarged their Dominions , befides many Hiftorical Accounts, is certified at their Coronation , by ten Banners carry ed by Great perfons : wherein were reprefented Ten Provinces Mon fie it de » that ls > Hungaria y Dal - Fume. mat id , Croatia y Schlavenia y Galtfu, Rafcia , • Servia, Bulgaria, B o fnia, and Ludomiria. This Country hath given the longefh flop unto the j turkijh Conquefts, and farther intrufion into the Weftern parts of Europe. For moft, which they have already ob- tained, hath been upon the advantage of the Hungarian IDivifions, . and their own fubtilty and falfe pra&ifes ; and Solyman , by fuch falfe and low dealings, furprized the Capital City of Buda. And although the Turk hath now obtained the beft part of the Country, yet almoft a third part remaineth out of his power, and in obedience to the Emperour , as King of Hungaria : as ahnojl: all Upper Hungary , from Presbnrg unto Tokay , and Zatmar . And there are yet out of their hands the three notable# Bul- warks of Chrijlendome ; Rab, Komar a, and Leopoldjladt ; all C *9 ) all which I had the advantage to fee. This laft hath been erefted fince the lofs of Nevphewjell ; and made much after the fame manner ; confiding of fix regular Bajlions revenues . It is feated on the Weft fide of the River Waag, over again dFreiftadt^ not far fiom the place where the Tartars patted over in the laft War, and de- ftroyed a great part of the Country , and carryedaway many Captives from thofe parts , and out of Moravia* This Fortification was begun in the year 1 66$ , and was well advanced, but not finifhed when I was there, 1669 . Count Souches the younger was then Governour thereof ; from whom I received great Civility in that place; and a Guard of Foot Souldiers , to convoy me through the Contribution Country , towards Schemnitz , Cremnitz , and the other Mine-Towns, Many Roman Emper ours have honoured thefe Quarters with their prefence, birth, death, or great Aftions. For (to omit Trajan , Caracalla , Galienm , Conjlantim , and many more) 'the Bmperours jturelianus , Probus, G rati aims had their Nativities at Sirmium ; and Claudius Gothicus dyed in it, or near it. Joviams, and Valentinianus were born in Pannonia Ingenuus , Governour of Pannonia, was faluted Emperour by the Mcejian Legions, Vetranio likewife, in the fame Country, And at Sirmium was held a General Counfel , when Photinus was Bifhop of that place. The Roman Armies being much in this Country. No wonder it is, that fo many Coynes of Copper, Gold , and Silver are to be found in it : Whereof I obtained no finall number at Petronell, or Old Carnnntum, which was a part of Pannonia . And at Sene , or Serna , feituated near the Danube, I met with very many. They are alfo to be found at Old Buda, or Sicambria ; at Old Sirmium in the Country now called Scbremnia; at Murfapr EJfeck , D 2 and C 20 ) and many other parts. An jirmenian Merchant , in whofe Houfe I lodged at Belgrade , undertook to provide me with Roma n Coynes againft my return: which he might well do about thofe parts, as at Sirmium 3 Sammdri a, and other places. And not far from thence Lyfimachw, King of Macedon and Thrace, is conceived to have kept his abode at a Caftle or Pallace near Deva ; where that unparallePd mafs of Gold Medals was found , as is particularly de- livered by Monfieur Fume'e , in his account of the Wars of Hungary* Near the Town of Deva or Dev/u , was found great (lore of Treafure , by the Peafants of the Country, under an Ancient Caftle or Palace, all ruined and decayed* The Rain continuing a long time , and the Water running with a forcible current , there was difcovered an infinite company of Golden Medals : upon one fide of which was Coyned the Image of Lyjimachta, on the other fide a Victory ; every one weighing two or three Crowns. The Storm and rage of water being part, and the Sun Alining on theft, made a marvellous glittering ; which perceived by the Peafants , they remained raviflied with joy ; and taking them up, they alfo found a Golden Serpent : which afterwards General Gajlalde fent unto Ferdinand, with a part of thefe Ancient Medals. This being an ancient cuftome with thofe, who buryed their Treafure, to place Serpents there, in token of a Faithful keeper. After the Peafants had taken, no man knew what • others took from thence more than twenty thoufand Ducats . And the report was, that they might have taken an hundred thou- fand, For that had fometimes been the abode of King Lyfimachm. Whereof Ferdinand had a thoufand , and CajlaUe three hundred. Which Coyn remained in this place from LyJimachvj s time* Among other notable An- tiquities, there were alfo found two Medals of Gold , the one C 21 ) one of Ninas , the other of Semiramis, which were fent to the Emperour Charles the Fifth, And there was not any man in all that Piovince, of what Authority or repu- tation foever, who had not fome of thefe . Carniola , and Friuli ; and foon after my return to Vienna I met with an oppor- tunity, which carryed me unto the Ottoman Court, which then, and a long time before , refid ed at the famous Old City of LA RISSA in Fheffaly. You are not to exped the Names of all places, v^hich I paffed; yet divers you will find mentioned, which are not to be found in Mapps ; except you.have fome more exad , than any I have met with. Between Vienna and Presburg , above the confluence of the KwtrMarck with the Danube, l could not but take no-- tice of the Town of Petronell, m&Haymburg Hill and Ca- ll le. Vetromll is conceived to have been Old Carnuntum ,a llrongHoldof the pan no mans, in vain attempted by the Romans an hundred and feventy years before the Incar- .hat ioy: ; ( 24 ) nation ; but was afterwards fubdued, in the time of jlu- gujlus, made a Roman Colony, and the Station of the Legio decima quart a gemina , and the Clafjis Ijirica ; and in procefs of time fo enlarged, that it became the chief City of Pannonia Superior, and comprehended that traft cn the South bank of the Danube , wherein now ftand Haymburg, Dutch Altenburg, and St.PetronelL I had been formerly at petronelL , to inform my felf in ■the noble Raines and Antiquities thereof; where I met with variety of Medals , Infcrfptions, remainders of a noble Aqua&ifU, and the Remains of a goodly Fabrick , which I thought might be the ruine of a Temple of Janus, but it is conceived to have been a Triumphal Arch, erefted in memory of a great Viftory over the Pannomans, and Dal- matians , by Tiberius , in the Ninth year of our Lord* My noble Friend, Petrus Lambecius , hath fet forth the Fi- gure of one fide thereof (in the Second part of his De- fection of the Imperial Library , ) and of the back part i took a draught my felf This, arid other Carnuntine Antiquities may be feen in the fame Author ; and more may beexpefted, when that Worthy perfon fliall pleafe to publilh his Carmmtum redivivum . In this place, the Emperour Antoninus Philofophus , in order to his Wars with the ^Marcomanni, now Moravians , refid ed the fpace of three years, and dyed at Vindobona , now Vienna : and here Sever us was eleded Emperour by the German Legions. But this noble and Ancient City was ruined, in after-times, by Attila th eHttnne, in his Incurfions into thefe parts : Yet there are ftill remaining many marks of its Ancient greatnefs. And though grafs now groweth where Old Carnuntmn ftood ; yet by an obfervingeye, the Foundations of their Houfes,and their Streets are ftill difcoverable : and fuch great quantities of Coy ns have been of a long time , and are ftill ~ ^ ' found ( 25 ) Found there , that the Bowes are commonly well Futniflied with them; of .whom 1 purchafed a great number ; and Mr. Donellan, an Irijh Gentleman, who then travelled with me, and was walking in my company , viewing thefe Old Remains of former greatnefs, by chance flrook with his foot a Silver Coyn out of the Earth. j Vresburg, Pofonium^ Pifonium , and by fome thought to be Blexum , is a pleafant City feated on the North fide of the Danube , ten German miles Eaftward from Vienna , the chief City of Hungarian in the Imperial Dominions thereof; fincethe lofs of Buda, the place of Convention for the Pjlate s : and fmce the lofs of Strigonium , the Me- tropolitan City. The City is pleafant ; the Cajlle is (lately, beautiful, and well fcituated; wherein is kept the fo highly efteemed Crown of Hungary , commonly believed to have been brought by an Angel from Heaven, unto Sr* Stef hen their King ; and is of a different figure from other Crowns. The Garden of the Arch-Bijhcf is very fair* the Walks , the Grottos , the figure of Jeronimo , the La™ birrynth , Fijh-fonds ^nd Fountains are Noble. In the Dome ; or Cathedral Church ,lyeth the Body of St. Johannes Flee - wojynarius-, Bifihop of Alexandria . The Jefuits have a part of the lame Church, and a noble Apothecaries Shop, full of Rarities The Lutheranshzvc alfo a fair Church here. Rah, or Javrinum, , a City feated at the confluence of the Rivers Rab , Rabnitz , and the Danube : and a ftrong Frontier Bulwark againfl: the Furk. It hath two Bridges , one over a double Ditch, leading towards Aujlria ; and another towards Alba Regalis 9 or Stnllweiffenburg. It hath feven large Bajlions , and four Cavalliers , or high Mounts, which over-look them. The firft is the Caftle Ba/lion , upon which Hands the Caftle or Palace of the Governour, The fecond is the Water Bajlion , lying towards the Danube . The third is the Baftion of the holy Hilly under which when E the ( 26 ) the Turks fprang a mine,aHorfeman was blown off from the top of it into*the Danube, without any hurt to himfelf or his horfe; the fourth is the middle Baftion , towards the Land Eaft ward. The fifth is the new Baftion, the fixth is the Imperial! >or Emprefle Baftion; and the feventh is the Hun- garian Baftion , lying next the River Rab, where the Turkijh Governour was killed when theTown was furprifed in the night by the Chriftians.The Country is all p’ain about,and there is nothing which feems to command it, but a fmail Hill at ibme diftance , which is undermined , and may be blown up upon any occafion ; beyond which there is alfo a Tower or Spy in the open Fields^to difcover the ap- proach of the enemy. It was befieged by Stnan Bajfa , in the raign of Sultan Amurah the third ; where he loft ma- ny men , and at oneaffault twelve thoufand ; but at laft was furrendred , by the treachery of Count Hardeck , the Governour ; which coft him his head at Vienna . In a few years after , it was recovered , by a notable furprife, afted by Count Swart&enburg ? and Count j Palji , with a great {laughter of the Turbos* I faw a part of the Gate, which was then broken by a Petard, thefame being ftill kept for a memorial , in a part of the Cathedral Church. While this p'ace was in the Turks poffeffion , they made a Dungeon for Chriftian Prifoners , wherein there is no light, but what enters by a Grate upon the ground in the Market-place. But this is now feldome empty of Turks begging the Charity of Paflers-by , and felling neat whip« which they make in this their fad reftrainf. He that would take a view of warlike Engines and In- ftruments , is not like to have better fatisfaftion any where , then at Rab and Komar a , where he may take no- tice of one, called a morning Star , ufed by the Centinels, and at an affault , defence of a breach , or entrance into a Town; of earthen Pots to throw amongft the Enemies,fil- ( 2 7 ) led with (ticking & burning materials. There he may alfo fee a Lehn Brader, or plank fet with hooks : to be placed on the out-fide of the works, covered lightly with earth ; whereby thofe , who ftorme are wounded , and intangfed. A werf Kugel , or inftrument filled with wild-fire , and combuftible matter, to be thrown by the hand, it fticketh fall and burneth. A Spanni[che Ritter or Cbeval de Frife , to be laid in the way, to keep out the Horfe ; divers forts of Chain-flhot, and the like. General ^Montecuculi was the Governour of Raab, whofe Paffe I had the advantage of in the former year , to travel by thefe parts unto the mine-Towns. The Emperour be- ing wearied with Chiaufes , and ordinary Envoys , which fo often came to Vienna from the Vifierof Ruda , and ex- pected prefents at ‘their return; hath taken order, that, without efpecial Licence , they (hall come no further than Raab , but there receive their difpatches. Kemra,Gomra , Grume mm or Comar onium , a large and ftrong Town at the Eaft-end of the Ifland of Schut , look- ing over the Danube and Wdagfirongly fortified, and well manned. Colonel Hoffkircher was then Governour thereof, the ftrongefi: place is the Tortoife Fort ; fo called , from fome refemblanceit hath to a Tortoije. This Town, after the taking of Raab 9 was befieged by Swan Bajfa, with fixty Ships , and a great number of Turks and Tartars ; but in vain, and to the great (laughter of the Tartars. In the inward Cafile I obferved thre old Tombs, which had been formerly brought thither from Sene or Senia , a place of Antiquity , not farr off. Some in the Caftles ob- ferving me to write out their Infcriptions , were very in- quifitive, and obliged me to leave a copy of them in the Caftle ; and if, upon after-confideration,I(Iiou[d find them to be of importance, required apromifeof me /to fend them an account thereof : The Infcriptions were thefe. E 2 Oa C 28 . ) Ob one of them . MEM OR I AE JVLIAEEMERITAEQV AE VIXITAN^V ALERIAMASCLENIA F I L I AE PIISSIME And on the Cover D M, The Infcription upon another was this, M V ALV ALERI ANTE EOT I II F-LVIXITAN X L 1 1 E TM VA L V LP I O E QPVBL' F I L VI X IT ANVn iSlMCON DITISVLPI A.PARATIANE MARITO ETVLPIAVALER I A F ILIA J£REDESTS D. M. And on the top or Cover , this following, lT AAMTPl6T1'rxeiMe TATI A T P O C.’ The third Tomb was of the fame Figure , but without any Infcription. I could not omit to letdown thefe , be- caufe they are not to be met with in that great Volume of Infcriptions of Gruter. Gomora hath been of late more ftrongly fortified, and a greater compafs of ground is taken in , by a line drawn from the Wang to the Danube , and fortified with four new Baftions. Of fome other places , near unto thele already named, and whereof I took notice the year before , I ftall make but C *9 ) but flhort mention ; as particularly of NzwUevpfitl \ fey the Hungarians called Vyrvar, feated by the River Neutra\ not farr from Nitria , a ftrong place , and Biiliops See, taken by Count de Soucbes in thelaft warrs* Nevohdujl is a ftrong hold, regularly fortified with fix large Baft ions, which makes it lye in the form of a Starr , it was furren- dred after fix ftonnes unto the grand Vijier ; who prefent- ly befieged it , after that Count Forchatz , the Governour, had rafhly loft a great part of his men at the Battel of Bar- chan ; where the bones of theflayn lye yet in the Field. The T urkijh Bafia liveth in the Palace , which belonged to the Arch-bifihop of Fresburg , and hath converted the Church into a Mofchea . The Baffa growing too familiar with the neighbour Governour of Kcmara , was jealoufly looked on by the Grand Signior , who fent one to take of his head , and put another into this Government. This place commandeth contribution from a good part of the Country betweeri the River Waag and the Neutra , and be- tween the Netitra and the River Gran : and in places^ where we lodged in thofe parts, theMafter of the houfe told us, he was obliged to give notice unto the Turks , who* and how many were in his houfe; whereof we vrerenot unwilling, revolving to be gone, before theaccount there- of could come unto them. If the Vijier had not fpent time about the fiege of JWewhewfell , but marched into Jfufiria, when the. Emperour was yet unprovided , the Auxiliary forces farr off, and Vienna , and all the Country about in great fear, he might have probably left fad effects in thole parts ; but attempting fome time after , to break into Au * firia by Saint Gedard , when the Imperial forces were in readinefs, and the great bodies of Auxiliaries of Germans and French came up, he was repulfed with great lofsof hisbeft fo!diers,and readily clapt up a peace, which hath kept thefe parts in quiet ever fince* C 3° ) Sene , Sone or Senia 3 a Village near the Danube, and re* markable place for variety of Antiquities, where , by the help of the Byro or Judg of the Town , I met with divers Coy ns, and fome of Gold, fome Intaglio's , and as they cal- led it , a Heathen or Roman Key. Whereof I ptefented fome unto Eetrm Bomb earn , who fhewed them uhto the Emperour. This place, being in the contribution Coun- try to the "Turks , hath been little enquired into ; and therefore the Antiquities thereof were the more welcome. Amongft all the Infcriptions of Gruter , I find but one or two of Serna. The People fay, this place was former- ly called Apollonia , but without any good ground. Faffing from Raab to Dot is , St. sSftlartinsberg offers it- felf to view ; an handfome Town , and ftrong hold , upon the top of a high Hill, over-looking all the Country, Dotis , Tata , or Theodato about twelve Englijh miles from Gomora , where there is a Caftle with a Ditch about it, and alfo fome Natural Bathes near it. It hath been of- ten taken and retaken : Groff Zacki , a Noble Hungarian , was then Governour ; whofe fingular Civilities I muft always aeknowledg ; and indeed in thefe parts , I was at beft content in the company of Souldiers, for they com- manded all, and were generous and free-hearted Perfons , * and could commonly Fpeak either Latine , High-Dutch , or Italian ; my company was the more acceptable to them, becaufe I had feen many parts of Europe before , which they would much enquire after. But to return into the road again ; we parted from Com- ra, being towed by a Saick of twenty four cares.The Hunga- rians rowing upon one fide , and the Germans on the other, they faluted the Fortrefs with two frnall Guns, which they carried at the head of the Saick , and fo we patted by Sene, JSfeJmil, Rodwan, and came to Motch , the exaft place of the Frontiers. Here we expected a Turkijh Convoy ; which ( 3i ) which coming betimes in the morning , we made ready for them ; their Officers went firft on fhoare , then our Veyda or Veyuod with the Interpreter , and chiefeft of the corn- pany, both parties walking {lowly, and at meeting gave hands to one another, then we delivered our Boat unto the Turks , which they faftned to their Sa/ck , and fent one into our Boat to fleer it : and turning about , faluted the Chriftians with one Gun , and then with eighteen Oares rowed down the Danube , we carrying th e Eagle in our Flag, they the Double Sword, Starr , and Half-Moon . The Turkijh Saick convoyed us to Strigonium or Gran, and fet our Boat on llioar in the Town , and fo left us ; the Governour alfo took no notice of us , either in hopes of a prefent , or fome private intereft , but an Jga ; who came with four troops of Horfe from Newhewfell , being come into the Caftle, asked the Governour (^as we were inform- ed by a Turk , that came unto us) what he meaned to have fo little care of his head , to deal with us after this man- ner ? who were not fent to him , or to a Bajfa , or a Vijier, but to the Sultan , and no doubt had a Prefent for him : : whereupon we were foon difpatched. This City of Gran , Strigonium or OJlrogon , is feated on - the South-fide of the Danube near the Confluence with the River Gran , divided into the upper and lower , and both walled ; the lower Wall doth well command the Da- nube , St. Thomas Hill , hard by the Town , is alfo walled, becaufe it commandeth the Town, tliere are in this place Natural Bathes of a moderate heat. This hath b^en the Metropolitan City of Hungary , where St. Stephen, the firft: Chnftian King of Hungary , was born ; and King Ste- phen the third buried. Scarce any place hath fuffered more ftrong and notable Sieges, befieged in vain by John Ring of Hungary , taken by Selyman , recovered by Count Mansfelt for ^Matthias the X 32 ) the Arch-Duke , befieged again in vain , blit taken in the time of Sultan Achmet , by the mutinous bafenefs of the Chriftian Defendants, who fhutting up Count Damper the Governour delivered the place unto ^Aly-Beg the Turkijb General, over againft Strigonium lieth Barchan, between two places there is a Bridge of Boats. From Strigonium we paffed to Vicegrade or Vizzegrade : The upper Caftle of this place is feared upon a very high Rock, where the Crown of Hungary hath been formerly kept ; the lower Caftle hath been faire , there is alfo a handfome Fabrick of fquare Stones , the mines whereof do ftill remain , this place was retaken from the Turks by the forces of the Arch-Duke Matthias , in the time of Ma- homet the Third, but betrayed , and delivered up by the treachery of the Heyducks in the raign of Sultan Achmety Charles King of Naples , and fworn King of Hungary , was wounded on the head by Forchatz ; and being carried in- to the Caftle , under pretence of laying a plafteron his head, was ftrangled. Over againft Vizzegrade lieth where the J Hmnes, being recruited, fought a fecond Battel ; obtain- ! ed the v-i&ory , and expulfed the Romans , though not without the Ioffe of forty tboufand of their own men. This hath been a very great place , but burnt by theChn- ftians. The Hungarians and Rafcians , who inhabit the fame, living in no good agreement. Thence to Jena PaUnka , where we paffed the River 'Sarvizza.) formerly Urpanm a handfome River , arifing near Vefprimum ; and paffing AlbaRegahs , or StuUwezfjen- hmg, the ancient place of Sepulture of the Hungarian Kings , which makes a triangle with Buda and Strigoniwn , and running into the Danube below. From thence by Setzwarto BoUfecI^ ? where we travelled by night and had a Horfe-garde of Spahies , till we came to Setz , . a large Town ; where I obferved the mines of an old Caftle* and a round Palefado upon the Hill. Here is alfo a new Chan or Garavanfarai ; then to Mo- • hacz. Before we came to this place , we paffed by a final! Bridge over the Brook Curajfe ; which -upon great raines^ over-floweth the Neighbour parts ; near which Ludovi- cm the unfortunate King of Hungary perifhed ^ being fib fled in a muddy place, where his Horfe plunged , after the Battel fought with the Forces of Solyman , on the o- ther fide of the Town. We went to fee the place, where fo noble ^Prince loft his life s and an inconfiderate Battel loft the Crown of Hungary. Hereabouts we met with a Cara- van of two or three hundred persons, fame going to a place of Devotion , and having Janifaries with them, to garde them; others intending , by permiffion , to feate themfelves in other parts of Hungary . And in divers places I met with numerous droves of Oxen , driven to- wards Vienna y upon the account of . the Pajfern Company ( 37 ) of that City > who furnifh that place and Country about, and are permitted to pafs free by the Grand Signor . From hence by Bar wo war Darda or Draza unto Effeck or Offeck , conceived to be old Mur fa ^ or not farr from it. It is feated low, and the Streets are planked with trees. Upon one fide of the Gate is part of a Roman In- fcription* M. 7ELIAN, &c. on the other fide, a Maids ■ head in a ftone, there is alfo a Dyal, which is not ordinary, brought from Serinwar ; and the greateft piece of Ordi- nance, which I fawinali thofe parts, not lying upon a Garirage,but upon bodies of Trees. But that which is mo'ft remarkable here , is the well-contrived Bridge of wood,, made partly over the River Dravus , and partly over the Fennes adjoyning , being five miles long: being rayled, 'and having Towers at every quarter of a mile, that part over the River Dravus , was burnt down by Count Nico- las Serini , in the laft warrs , and another built fince. He that beholdeth this Bridge , the Towers of wood upon it, , the ftrong ray les and floare , and the numerous fupporters ofit, cannot but wonder, how they Thould be fupplied with wood to build it , or maintain it. But hereof I (peak elfewhere , this is the great eft paflage into Hungary , from Se'rvia,md the T^/j^Dominions.Had this been well defers ded , when Solyman invaded Hungary , he had not proba- bly obtained fo eafie a march unto Buda, And to hinder the Supply of the Grand Vipers Army from other parts of Turky , Count Serini burned down that part , which was built over the Dravus ; and in his return burnt ffluinque Ecclefu or the City of five Churches, which lietlrWdT ward from Effeck . From thence we came toValcovar; where there is a hand fome wooden Bridge over the River Walpo or Yalgwm, plentiful! of Fife ; and .upon which , to the Weft ware, ftands the Town of Walyo , -taken by the /Turks in the '( 3 *) year 1645. Then by Sotzin Palanka , and Tmarnick or 'Tabornick , to Metrouitzaz. large Town , and a great place for a Faire , ftrengthned by the adjacent Lake. So to Simonovitz , leaving at a good diftance 011 the right hand the famous old Sirmium , now an inconliderable place, whereof I haveaifo laid fomewhat elfewhere. They call this Country , SchremnU ; and that ., more near the Dravus, Bofega. In this Country, many Families , and the Inhabitants of divers little Towns , live all underground. I had former- ly read of Troglodytes and Subterraneous Nations, about vSEgypt ; but I was mych furprized to fee the like in this place, and could not but fay unto my felf : Novo 1 believe the Troglodytes of old , Whereof Herodotus and Strabo told ; Since every where , about thefe parts, in holes Cmicttlar men l find, and humane moles. Near thefe Habitations are Wells, to Supply them with water ; which they draw up, like Dyers and Brewers : and dogs come out upon Strangers. As we travelled by them, the poorChriftianswould betake tKemfelves to their holes, like Conies. So that , tofatisfie our curiofities, we were fain to alight , and enter their houfes , which we found bet- ter then ye expefted , divided into partitions , with wooden chimneys, and a window at thefartherend , a lit- tle above the ground: and all things -as neatly difpofed, as in other poor houfes above ground ; although but mean- ly , after the faihion of thofe parts. Their fpeech is a Dia- led of the Schlavonian. So travelling on between the Da- mbitu and the Savus , we came.to Zemlin upon the Danube ; from whence we had a fair Prolpeft of Belgrade , into the Caftle of , Zemlin, Stephen the ufurping King, retired, and dyed. ( 39 ) dyed. Fromhencewe paHed by water unto Belgrade. Bel- grade Baurunum , Alba Graca^Greek-Wetfienburg, or Nan dor dlbajs the Hungarians call it,it is a large, ftrong, populous, and great, trading City, in Servia , or Mcejia Superior, fear- ed at the Confluence of the River Savus\ and Danubim : having the firft on the Weft , the other on the North. The Damibius is here very broad , runs furioufly , and feems to cut off the Savus ^ as the Rhofne doth the Soane 7 by Lyon in France. Thewater of theD^^^feeins whiter, troubled, and more confufed : That of the Savus , darker , greeniffi and clear , at the entrance of the Savus , there is an Wand , on which there is now much wood , although it be not older, then five and thirty years; about which time finee , the file of both ftreams fo fettled, as to appear firft above - water. Arriving at Belgrade , I paffed by the water Caftle 3 and ; afterwards by the upper Caftle , both large , and having many Towers; The Streets, where thegreateft traded driven, are covered over with wood, as in divers other trading places; fo that they are not offended with the Sun, or raine. They confift commonly of Shops, which are ■ but fmall ; and no other, then a Taylors Shop-board, pla- ced lowe; upon which , after the fame manner , the Shop- ^ keeper fits, and felleth his wares to his Chapman with- out, few or none entring in.I fa w alfo two large places built offtone,like unto the Exchange, with two rowes of Pillars v over one onother ; but they were fo full of Merchants goods , that they loft much of their beauty.' There are alfo two lar ge- Bezejlens , or places, where the ricbeft Com- modities are fold. They are built in the form of a Ca- thedral Church , and within are like to the Old Exchange, above ftayrs. The Grand Fijier hath built anoble C^- vanfara in this City , with a Fountain in. the Court, and near - C 40 ) near unto it a Mofehea , with a Fountain before it : which wastbefirft ^Mofehea , which I had the opportunity to fee within-fide. He hath alfo built a Metre feck or Colledge for Students,! favv aStudent habited in green, and wearing a Turbant with four corners, different from others , which is a peculiar diftin&ion. Although near to 1110ft Towns there be Sepulchres to be feen, yet I obferved them to be moft numerous at Belgrade, as being very populous a and the Plague having been lately in it. We lodged at an Armenian Merchants houfe , where we were handfomly accommodated. And we vifited divers others , who had built them faire houfes ; one , in which there was a Fountain and handfom Bathe , and Stoves , where we wanted not Coffe , Sherbet ^ and excellent wines ; fuch as the Neigbour Country affordeth. Thefe Armenians are difperfed into all trading places, and have a Church here at Belgrade , and feem to be more plain dealing , and reafonable men to buy any thing of , then either Jews ox Greeks. The Countrys about have a great trade unto this place: the Ragufeans trade here , and the Eaftern Merchants of Vienna ] have a Fa&ory in this City. And furely Belgrade is as well feated for traders any inland place in Europe : for being fcituated upon the Confluence of the Danubim , and the Savus , having the great River Eibifem running into the Danube near it; the Dravus not very farr from it, and the River Morava not farr below it; the Danube alfo flowing forward unto the Euxine Sea , it may hold no un- eafie commerce with many remote parts. And Servia be- ing a Fruitfull and pleafant Country confifting of Plains, Woods , and Hills , which might afford good Metals , not without ftout Men good Horfes, Wines and Rivers 5 if it were in the Chriftians hands of the temper of.jtho.fe in the Wefternpartof Europe., it might make a very fiourifhing Country* This X ( 4 * ) This place hath formerly been the Bulwark of Hungary , hvvain befged by Amur at h the fecond , and again by Ma- homet the Great, who was repulfed by the valour of Hun- modes y and the Auxiliaries 5 raifedby Frier Capijlranm : when Hunniades iffuing forth, and encamping out of the City, beat away th cTurkiJh Forces with great (laughter : where Mahomet hitnfelf was wounded in the breft , loft his Ordinance, and two hundred Ships were over-thrown, by a Fleet , which came from Buda . But , being unprovi- ded , it was fince taken by Solyman , and in no likely-hood to be recovered. Leaving Belgrade ,we proceeded in Servia, and pafTed by a very high Hill 9 called Havilleck , on the South 'or right hand, where are ftill the mines of an old Monaftery , and came unto Hifiargick , nigh the Danube ; which , in Maps, is commonly placed too fan: from it. Here we took leave of that noble River, which by this time hath run a long courfe ; and from Ulme , in Schwabenlandt , where it be- gins to be navigable , about nine hundredmiles : but more from its firft foiirce and original; and hatha long fpace yet to run , before it entrcth the Buxine. Next to Collar, not farr from Sa?nandria , an old habitation and Roman Colony , now a place of no great remark : then to Haf fan Bajfa Ralanka , about forty Englifh miles from Bel- grade : perhaps fo called from Hajfan Bajfa a famous TurkijhGe neral. Here I could not but take notice of an handfom Antiquity in Stone , of a Lyon worrying a Wolf. From thence to Baditzna, where the womens drefs be- gan to change, and was fomewhat odd unto me. They wear a kind of Canopye on their heads ; which is feta- bout, as alfo their foreheads, with all forts of mony, which they can get of Strangers. We left feme (mail pieces a- mongtheiu, to add unto that curiofity: in this kind of Ornament I have feen feme Grecian women very rich , and G fomewhat r 42 ) Somewhat after this fafhion , but their head-drefs not rai- fed fa high ^having their foreheads covered with Ducats of Gold, and pearle, So we paffed on to Jagodna, plcafant- 1 y Seated , and in a faire Country , whence Setting for- wards, aft era few boureswe turned South-ward, and Soon after, upon the fide of an Hill, upon the right hand , I faw the Tomb of a Tfurkijh Saint, about four yards long , and a Square covered place by it ; here our Chians alighted, and performed his devotions in prayer, then we travelled on , through great Woods , dangerous for wolves and thieves , by CJsifflick, where there is a Cahvanfarah , but not always fafe : So as we refreshed our felves in a large Farme-houfe, notfarr from thence, belonging to a rich Wine-Merchant of Belgrade . From hence we travelled by night to the noted River Morava or Mofcbius , the chief River of thic Country ; which ariiing above in the Moun- tains in two dreams, the one named Morava di Bulgaria , the other Morava di Servia , after uniting, runneth into the Danube , at Zienderin or Singidunum , oppofite to the Raf- cun Shoare: we paffed this River at a place which was broad , fomewhat deep , and rapid , and therefore not without fome fear , and the continued loud prayer of the Chiaus in Turkish , and of the Couriers Ora fro nobis. Nor were they well Satisfied with me , after that we had paffed over, that I had been more filent then the reft, and yet the firft on ftioar. This paffage put me in mind of the Swift R i- ver Varus , in the Confines of Provence and Italy , which I paffed on Horfe-back, with two inen going by me , on the lower fide Shoving up my Horfe left the current Should bear him down. By this River Morava , the commodities of Servia, and part of Bulgaria, are brought into the Da- nube , and fo difperfed ; and up the current of the fame River are brought Salt and other commodities, from Hun- gry Auftm y and the neigbour Count rys* Not farr front 0 43 ) this River, was that great flaughter of the Turks by Hm-- niades\ who, with ten thoufand Horfe, fet upon the Turkijh Camp by Moon-light , flew thirty thoufand , and took four thoufand prifoners ,wiftorioufly returning unto his Camp. Where he left Uladijlaua ' and George Dejpot of Servia. We arrived at length at Halit Jahifar , or Crujbo- vatz, in Bulgarian ; a confiderable place , where there is an handfome Church , .with two faire Towers. Then tra- velling the whole day through Hills and Woods , we came to Pmupe y which fome will have to be Villa Prccopiam , in turkijh called Urckm. Here we flayed till the next day,, being lodged in a Ragufean Merchants houfe , where we were well entertained. The Pried 5 being of the Roman Church* fpake Ratine , which is a Language not ordinary inthefe parts; and enquiring of me after Latine Books, I prefented him with one , called Manuductio ad calum, which he kindly accepted, and gave me a wrought-colour- ed Handkerchief, and fome little things of thofe parts. They had alfo aPhyfitian, who had fome. knovvledg, of Simples , and ordinary Compofitions. His manner was to go into the Market-place every morning , and invite all perfons who flood iitneed of his afflftance , to refort unto him. From hence we came to Lefcoa , or Lefcovia , where 1 could obferve little, befides a large Tower, which feemed to be ancient , but without Infcription. We paffed much of our time at a great Faire, which happened to beat that time kept in a large enclofed Place > with great refort of people; where I thought it feafonable , to prefent the Chians with a Feather^he.having loft his the day befare,and we found fome want thereof, for hereby we travelledwith more Authority through all places. This Town is feated upon the remarkable River JLypcritza , which may well be called the Meander of zdNtfia) for it runneth fo winding G 2... and c 44 ; and crankling between the Hills , that in the fpace of lefs then twelve houres, we paffed it ninety times. This called to my mind the River Taro in Italy , which, parting from the Dominions of Parma , I paffed forty times , before I came to For novo. The next day we travelled over the Mountain Cli([ura , one of the Spurs or Excurfions of Mount Hamu*. We were much furprifed at the gallant appearance thereof, for the Rocks and Stones of this Mountain fhine like Silver, and by the light of Sun and Moon , afford a pieafant glit- tering ihovv, as confifting of Mufcovia glaffe , whereof I brought fome home with me. We defcended in a narrow rocky way by the ftrong Caftle of Kolombotzpr Golobotz , and came unto Urania , feated at the bottom of the Hill ; this is a ftrong Paffe , which the Caftle commandetb , and locks up the paffage. The Hills between Servia and Macedonia , are a part of Mount H&mus ; which, under feveral names, is thought to extend from the Jdriatick to the Buxine Sea; admitting of feveral paffages, which Philip King of Macedon took a fpe- cial care to fihut up againft the Neigbouring Nations. Which when he had done , he thought himfelf fecure ; and that from thence no enemys could come at him, except they dropped out of the Clouds. Some have thought , that from the middle peaks of Hamus a man might fee both the Buxine and jdriatick Seas ; and King Philip made tryal of it : but we find not , that he fatisfied his curiofity therein; nor do I think any hath done it. Being upon high Mountains , and more inclining to the Jdriatick Sea, I viewed all about ; but found , that the high Jlbanian Hills did cut off all longProfpeft. From we paffed to Comomva, near which there is ft ill a Greek Monaftery,upon the fide of the Hills. From thence to Kaplanlih or Jigres Town; but why fo called, I could C 45 ) I could not learn. Then to Kuprulihor Bridge-Town, wher& there is a confiderable River named Pjinia , and a good Bridge builc over it. This Town wascafually fet on fire, while we were in it , and a great part of it burnt down ; the fire encreaiing much before we got out of it. Here we met with many perfons , who brought the Tribute , and a prefent of Hawks out of Wallachia unto the Grand Signior , then refiding at Lariffa, From hence * by Iff at , we came to Pyrlipe , firft pafiing the high Mountains of Pyrlipe in Macedonia , which fliine like Silver, as thofeof Cliffura ; and , befide eJ MofcovU GlafTe , may contain good Minerals in their bowels. The Rocks of this Mountain are the moft craggy that I have feen ; and maffy ftones lye upon ftones, without any earth about them, and upon a ridge of a Mountain many Steeples high ftands the ftrong Caftle of Marco Crollowitz , a man formerly famous in thefe parts. Then through a plain Country we came to sJTIf onafler or Toli, a great place, well peopled , and pleafantly fear- ed. Here the Sultana , who was great with child at Lariffa , was defigned to be delivered, and lye in. All accommoda- tions being ordered to that purpofe , where I afterwards heard fhe was delivered pf a daughter, who lived not long after. The Turks who have a high opinion of Alexander the Great , would have been glad to have had a Son of the Empire born in Macedonia . From hence to Filurina , and Fee iff o Verbeni , where there are AciduU of good efleem , the Springs large , and plentifull. Before we defeended the Hill , which leadeth to this Town, we had a fight before us of the famous Mount Olympus , about feventy miles off; and on the left hand we faw the Lakes of Petriski , and OJlrova) they have a Tra- dition, that one of thefe Lakes was made , by taking great ftones exut of the fide of the Hills, whereby theSubterra- G 3 neons C 46 ) peons water, finding Tent , overflowed the Neighbour Plaines. , We came afterwards to Fgribugia , where, we again. left the Paines , and ravelled over high rocky Hills to Sa- nggiole* Whence palling through the River lnjecora , we came to Sarvitza , , a noted place, built partly upon an Kill , and partly in the Plaine. The Cbriftians live 1110ft in the upper part, the Turks in the lower : there is alfo a Ca- ttle upon a very high Rock, not farr from hence , w f e went through a palTage , cut through the Rocks > like to a great Gate, and a fmall River palling a!fo through it, which makech a faft Paffe., and commanded! the palTage of this Country, which put me in mind of la Chiufa , in the Julian Jlpes , between Venfone and Fonteva; which palTage the Venetians ffmt up every night , we took notice alfo in our journy , of the firft Turkijh Mofchea , which was built in tbefe parts , upon that place , where the Turks firft retted, after they had taken the ftrong Cattle and palTage of Sar- vitza, Here we alfo patted by a Hill of a fine red Earth, whereof they make Pots and Vettels, like thofe of Fort u- gal Earth, which are of etteem all about thefe parts. We proceeded over^dangerous Rocks , in narrow hanging ways , ftili on Horfe-hack ; although we had little plea- fkre to look down the Precipices on one hand and fee the carkaffes of Horfes in Tome places , which had fallen down and broke their necks. Afterwards we had the Mount Olympus on our left hand , till we came to Jleffone or jilejlm , a confiderable place ; where there is a Greek Monaftery , and Monks of the Order of St. Bajil. The Monaftery was. of a different, kind of building from any, I had then feen. From hence patting over a River, we entred into a round Plain , of about five miles over ; with divers Towns pleafandy feated in it. Then over an Hill again ^ which is a Spur of Mount Olympus ; upon the top whereof ( '47 -) whereof an old Man flood beating of a Drum, to give no- tice unto PafFengers onbothfides, that thofe parts were free from thieves. From this Hill as wedefcended , we had a good Propped: of the Plaines of Thejfaly ; and at the foot of it , vve turned to the left , and paffed o ver a River, which runneth from under a focky Mountain , not in final* Springs , but the whole body of the River together ; and then through Vineyards , and Gotten Fields, toTornovo, and from thence to Larijfa , where the Ottoman-Court re- fided : of which places we Hull fpeak more hereafter. In our return, we left the road , about KapUnlih , and turned unto Skcpia , a City of great Trade , and the largeft in thefe parts. Scopia or Scupi of Etolomy , named Ufcopia by the Turky , is feated in the remotefl parts of Mafia Su- perior, or the Confines of Macedonia, at the foot of Mount Orbelus , upon the River Vardar , or jixius, in a pleafant and plentiful] Country , feated partly on Hills, and partly on Plaines. It was firft a Bifhops , afterwards an Arch- bifhopsSee; Hill a pleafant and populous place* There arefeven hundred Tanners in it, and they tanne in great long T roughs of (tone, and make excellent Leather, w here- with they furnifh other parts. There are fonie handfome Sepulchral Monuments, and many faire Houfes , as that of the Cadih , and that belonging to the Emir , or one of Ma- homet s Kindred, whofe Father was of great efleem in thefe parts. In the Court-yard of the Emirs Houfe , Hands a remarkable and peculiarly contrived Fountain , in manner of a Caflle, fet round with many Towers , out of the tops whereof the water fpringth forth. Their belt Houfes are fnrnifhed with rich Carpets to tread upon : and the Roofs divided into triangles , quadrangles, and other Figures, fairly guilded,and painted with feveral colours, but with- out any Imagery or Reprefentation, either of Animal or Vegetable. Here is alfo a faire Btzeftw , covered with lead; many ( 48 ) many Streets covered over with wood ; and divers places are faire both within and without the Town , being fee off by Trees and pleafant Hills and Dales* There are a great number of Mofchea's or 'Turkish Churches. The faireft is on a Hill , and hath a large Por- tico before it , fupported by four marble Pillars 5 near which is a Tower of wood with a Clock and a Bell in it ; from whence I had a good Profpeft of the City. There is alfo an Arch , which feemeth to be Ancient, and a rivolet running under it. A large Stone alfo , which feemeth to be part of a Pillar, with this Infcription S H l A N c . A lit- tle way out of the City, there is a noble dqueduff of Stone, with about two hundred Arches, made from one Hill to another , over the lower ground or Valley , between which is a handfome Antiquity , and addeth to the honour of this place. When Mahomet the firft conquered this City , he placed a Colony of Afiaticks in it , which maketh it the more T’urkijb, Great Aftions have been performed here- abouts, in the time of the Romans , particularly by Regil- lianut\ as is teftifiedby Prebellm Pollio , that he won fo many Battels , and carried on fuch mighty things at Scupi, that he deferved a Triumph. Hereabouts alfo ftood copolisy and Ulpiamm . The Sanziack of this place is under the Beglerhegof Ru - melia or Gracia. A Trade is driven from hence to Bel- grade , and to Theffalonzca or Salonichi , and many other places. I have been more particular concerning this Ci- ty, becaufe Geographers paflfe it over in a few words ; and I could never meet with any , who had been at it. From hence we travelled to Catjhamch aFortrefs that com- mands the paffage between the Hills ; and afterwards ad- vanced fo farr , as to enter the famous Plaines of Coffova, in Bulgaria \ which fome take to be Campus Mentis , a PUine not very much exceeding hmolne Heath , yet the Stage C 49 ) Stage of great aftions. Here the greatefl Chriftian Army, that was ever brought into the Field in Europe , confiding of five hundred thoufand men* under Lazarus Defpot of Servia , fought with the Forces of Amur ah the firft , and loft the day. In which Battel Lazarus was flain • and.^f- murah, viewing the dead bodies , was dabbed by Michael Cobikvitz, a Chriftian Souldier, left for dead in the Field. Amur ah hath in thefe Plains a memorial Monument unto this day; and that part is called the Field of the Sepul- chre: in the fame Plaines was alfo fought that remarkable Battel between Hunniades and Mahomet , for three days to- gether ; wher e Hunniades , having very unequal Forces, was at laft over-thrown. So we proceeded forward to Erejlina , a good Town* and where we expeded good accommodation ; but having entred into a fair Room, we found a man lying down in it, fick of the plague. So we confulted our fafety, and flayed not long ; and having a Gypfie to our Guide , we travelled through a Country thinly inhabited , but fruitfull and pleafant , and were much refrefhed with fair Cornelions , which grew plentifully in the ways : we palled alfo by an hot Bath * a little on the right hand. The Bath is in an arched Room, well built , and very refrefhingunto Travel- ers* it hath a red Sediment , and is impregnated with a fucctu lapidejcens , and maketh a gray Stone. It is within two hours goingof Bellacher qua or Curfumne,v!\\eYe I ob- served a Convent and an old Church, with two handfom Towers: From whence pafling over the Hill Jafnebatz y we came to Efhelleck , between the two Morava* s , and fb by a Caftle upon a Hill , near unto which is a noted Con- vent , wherein is kept the body of Kenez Lazarus , and the body of St. Romanos , and fo proceeded. But Imuft not forget to fay fomethingof Larijfa , H THE (SO THE DESCRIPTION OF LARIS S A AND THESSALY- L ^/RISSJ is the chief City of Tbeffafy , feated by the River Peneus the chief River of that Country. Upon the North it bath the famous Mountain Olympus, and on the South a plain Country. It is now inhabited by Chri- fl inns, Pur ks and Jews ; hath fair Bezefiens , divers.7 urkijh Mofiheas , and Chriftian Churches in it. It is pleafantly feated , and upon a rifing ground : on the upper part whereof Hands the Palace of the Grand Signior , which he hath made ufe of during his refidence in this place : it is contrived with jetting large W indows, on four fides , near which he took his repaft , and paffe-time, according as the wind ferved, or afforded the beft ventilation. It is alfo an Arch-biftops See , having divers fuffragan Bifliops under it. The Reverend Father Dionyfius was then Arch-bifliop. The Church of St.JchiU.eus is the Ca- thedral , where I heard Divine Service , the Arch-bifhop being prefent, and Handing in his Throne in his Epifcopal habit , andhisCrofierinhishand ; when three or four H 2 of ( $2 ) of us Strangers came into the Church , he fent one to fume us with Incenfe and fvyeet Odours. The Grand Signior kept his Court in this place for fome y ears , in order to his Affairs in Candia, and for the great convenience of Hunting and Hawking , wherein he excee- dingly delighteth When I came away , it was faid, that he would go to Negroponte ; but he remained at Larzjfa fome months after, untill he removed to Salonichi , and after- wards to ^Adrianople. In the hot and dry Summer 1669. the Grand Signior paffed above two months of that feafon upon the Neigh- bouring Mount Olympus , partly that he might have a large Profpedt over the Plains , and a part of the Aigtedan Sea , and partly to enjoy frefh Ayr, and be removed from the choaking heat of the Valleys ; but this humour proved definitive to fome hundreds of thofe , which attended him ; for it became fo cold upon the Hill, that many, w ho reforted unto him, being over-heated by afcending the Mountain , and then pierced by the cold Ayr above , fell fick, and dyed ; and often in fuch places, where there was fcarce earth enough to bury them. The Sultantimklf fell alfointo a diflemper, but it lafted but three or four days : of Horfes and Camels not a few periflied. The Suit an who is adefperate rider, killed one of his beft Horfes, by forcing him up a noted peak of the Mountain , called JPj- thagon or Kiflagon , where few or none could follow him ; he wasalfo fo daring, that he would have leaped on Horfe- back over aFiflfureor Cleft in the Rocks in a bravery ; and was fcarce with-held from that bold attempt , by the prayers and importunity of his chiefeft followers. Many aifoperifhed by drinking of a Spring of a whitifti colour upon the Hill, in their heats and thirfb , contracted by as- cending the Mountain ; they complaining of a coldnefs and heavinefs at their ftomach for three or four days before they dyed. The c 53 ; The Greeks (who are forward to rragnifie the Con- cerns of their Country,) fpeak highly of Mount Olympus : and Homer would have it to be the habitation of Jupiter , and the Gods, and to be without Clouds , but unto mefome parts of the jilpes feem much higher ; and I have feen Clouds above it ; and in September there appeared no fnow upon it, which the high Peaks in the Alpes, Pyrenean? and Carpathian Mountains , befides many others in Europe, are never without. And Olympus alfo was plentifully fup- plied with it upon the firft >rain that fell in that Country ; it not being unknown to you, 1 fuppofe, that when it rain- eth upon the Valleys , at the fame time it fnoweth upon high Mountains, and this Hill I tnuft confefs to be vifible at a great diftance ; for I beheld it from Ecciffo Verbem in Macedonia , feventy miles from it ; and it confifteth not of one rifing peak, as it is fometimes defcribed, but is alfo ex- tended a great way in length, and makes good the Epithite of Homer , Eon-gum treme re fecit O- v ' lympum. If the word be there taken , not onely for high, but long* This Hill chiefly extending from Eaft to Weft , makes the Inhabitants, at the foot of the North and South- lides,to have a different temper of Ayr, as if they lived in Climes much diftant ; which makes the expreffion of Lucan very Emphat cal : J£ec metuens imi Borean habit at or Olympi , Lucent emtotis ignorat noffibus Arfton* E Aldus nJEmylius , the Roman Conful, winding about this Hill, by the Sea-fide , overcame King Perfeus , and fo con- quered Macedonia. When King Antiochus befieged Lariffa , Appius Claudius raifed the fiege , by great lV ' fires, made upon part of Mount Olympus ; the King appre- hending C 54 ) bending thereby, that t he whole force of the Romms were corning upon him. But the exploit o* die Confui Mar- tim upon this Hill was mo; markable , and unparallebd by any fince ; who being lent againft King Philip 5 the laft L . h of that Name, brought his Souldiers over O- Ll cav ' 7 ‘ lympm , by pafiages unknown , and fuch diffi- cult ways, that his men were fain to wallow,and make hard A life down ; and his Elephants, by ftrange contrived En- gines , fomewhat like draw-Briclges , one under another, were let down into the Plains ; as Sr. Walter Raveleigh hath more largely deferibed the fame. And as the Grand, Signior hath honoured Larijfa by a long aboadin it ; fo King Philip of qJ Mace don, t oiy ms . t k e ] a (j. 0 p Name, did the like: for we find he paflted the Summer at Larijfa, the fame year, when Han~ nihal took Saguntus in Spain . Whether Xerxes were here, when his great Army pafled through Tbeffaly towards LhermopyU , Hiftories do not declare. But King Philip, Father unto Alexander the Great , after he had quieted the Illyrians , and Pannenians , bent his mind upon Greece ; in order whereto he took the City Larijfa upon the River Renew, and thereby got fo good footing inLheffaly , that he made great ufe of the Ihejfalians , in the following wars with Greece, Before the Battel of Pharfalia , as Cafar delivers , Scipio lay with a Legion in this City , and this was the firft place , unto which Pompey retired , after his overthrow ; according to that of Lucan. Viditprma tu& tejlis Larijfa ruin a. Nobile y nec vitlum fat is caput . And not flaying there, he went along the River , and taking Boat , went out to Sea , and was taken in by a great Ship, then ready to weigh Anchor. The ( 55 ) The River Peneus > which runneth by Lariffa , is the chiefeft in Theffaly, and into which moft of the other Rivers run; arifing from Mount Hindus ; and running in- to the Sinus Therm&umjyc Gulf of Salonichi^ palling by the famous Valley of Tempe , and running between Mount Olym- pus and Ojfa , into the Sea, In that famous expedition again# the Grecians, Xerxes would have made his entrance by this way : for Herodotus ddiveretb, that he fayled from Therm #, now Salonmht,unto the mouth of the River Peneus ; to obferve, if there were any paffage, or any could be made , to enter into Thejfafy ; and finding, upon enquiry , that the River had no other paffage, and that it could not be turned : he faid , that the ThejJalians had done wifely, to yield, and make their peace with him ; for, by flopping of the River Peneus ,TheJfaly might have been drowned. I found the Epithite of Homer very agreeable , f unto this River , for it hath a clear ftream and -^fM****** bottom, and the Fable of Jpollo , and Daphne , the brigh- ter of Peneus, who was turned into a Bay- tree , had a pro- per Scene in this place; for on the Banks of the River , Bay-trees grow plentifully unto this day. There is an handfome Stone-bridge over this River, confining of nine Arches ; and peculiarly contrived with holes and paffages in the folid parts between the Arches, to > afford fome paffage unto the water , when it is high ; and hinder the bearing down of the Bridge, in high waters, and great floods. The City being full , many Turks had their Tents in the Fields , by the River-fide, and lower grounds which be- ing of various colours, and not farr from a large Mofchea 9 , and the City afforded a pleafant Profpeflv The Sails of of their Tents were fo ordered , that they came not within a yard of the ground : fo that the Ayre might freely en- ( 56 ) ter into them ; where they commonly remained paffing a great part^of the day in Drinking Sherbet and Cojft. Theneareft confiderable Port unto Larijfa , is that of folio , or old JP agafa , in the Sinus Pagajicw , or Demetria- cus , or Gulf of Armiro : not far from whence flood old Ar- gos Pelafgicum ; from which place the Argonauts firft fee fayle, in that famous Voyage for Colchos , by which way the Grand Signior received intelligence from Candia , and his jffian and African Dominions. And not far from hence , at the Promontory Sepias 3 there happened the greateft Ship- wrack we read of; when Xerxes loft five hundred Sayl by a Tempeft from anEaft-wind. It w'as no hard matter to have a fight of the Grand Sig- mor , at this place for he rode out often , for his recrea- tion of hunting and hawking , with great number of Atten- dants, and Huntfmen , and Falconers , in their proper ha- bits: and alfo went frequently to the great Mofchea , I had a full view of him, as he came out of his Palace , to go unto his devotion. Before he came out , divers brave Horfes richly caparifonned , were mounted by divers of his Attendants , nobly attyred , and rode about the Court- yard ; fo that he, looking out of the window, made choice of which he liked beft, and would then makeufe of. At his firft appearance abroad, great acclamations were made , low bowings from all , both near and at a diftance ; the Streets were made clean, and a Janifary was placed at every corner, to provide, that there might be no hinderance in the way. The Chiaufes rode before, the Shatters, or great Courtiers, about twenty four followed on foot ; and imme- diately , on each fide of his Horfe , walked two chief Ja- nizaries , with white Feathers , fet in an hallow Pipe be- fore their Caps, very large, atid fpread, and about a fathom high; which fhaking as they walked , were high enough, both to fhade and fan his face as he rode.Many braveHorfes were ( 57 ) were led after him , and divers perlons followed, carrying j Gulhions and Pillows to the Mofchea. Before he came out of his Palace , I obferved many gallant perfons in the j Porch, whidrthe Chians , who walked with me , told me, were perfons of thegreateft quality in Turly. The Grand Signior was then under thirty years of age„ well fet, fomewhat fliort necked, inclining to fatnefs , his complexion fallow naturally, and much heightned by fre- quent riding about in thofe hot Countrys. He hath a very ftrong body , and healthfull , and is a hard rider ; hath a Bern look, and yet would fpeak kindly unto perfons , and encourage the people abroad to approach him , taking no delight in the cryes,and frights, and flying away of the In- habitants at the fight of him , or any of his Officers, The Grand Vijier carried divers Chriftian Chyrurgions with him to Candia, but I heard of no Phyfitian of Note about the Grand Signior. The Sultan took great liking to a pri- vate Turkijh Prieft , whom he met withall by chance in Theffaly, and made him his Chaplain; but the report was, that a famous Prieft was coming to him. Achmet , the Prime Vijier , being abfent, the Chaymacham or Deputy Vijier difpatched all Affaires of State here , and had the beft Houfe in the City. The Emperours Refident had three Interpreters, who, upon alloccafions, were made ufe of in addreffes unto him , and by whom we were in- formed of the moft confiderable occurrences ; they being civil perfons and good Linguifts. The Sultana was alfo at Lariffa much beloved by the Sultan , by birth a Candiot , little of ftature , fomewhat marked with the fluall Poxe ; flie was then with childe,and was to go to lye in at Monajler , a great and pleafant Town in Macedonia ; which being a place we were to pafs, pro 8 - ved a great convenience unto us ; for, in order to her bet- ter journy , the High-ways were plained , Hills made pai- I fable ( 58 ) fab T e , with Broad- ways and Bridges ewer Rivers:, to the great labour of the Inhabitants ; who notwithftan- dihgwere not unready , to make a Bridge forfuch great ones to paft out oftheir Country * r for at the fir ft approach of the Grand Signhr , a great number of the Greeks for- fook their habitations , for fear of him and his Attendants, and left them unto the Turks \ but were recalled again by his command. The Grand Signiors Son was alfo with him there , about fix. years old. I went with Ofman Chiaus to fee the Chaymacham' shoufe, but efpecially to hear his Mufick, which was accounted the, beft in Turky. Where I heard the loud eft , yet not un^ pJeafant Mufick , I ever met vvith ; ten men at once playing in an open high Room upon large Wind-inftruments, which they miffe not to do at certain hours of the day. In the Town I alfo heard fome Turkijh Songs , but efpe~ dally concerning Sakata Sevi , the famous Jewijh Impo- ftor T who had made a great noy fe in the world , and how Cujfum Bajha fo handled him, that he was glad to turn Turk. This Cujfum Bajha , is a perfon much honoured by the "Turks , and cryed up for his great skill and pra&ife in Phyfick ; an Art not much known amongft them. He is now Vijler of Erzrum in JJiay is married to one of the Grand Sign tor's Sifters , and lives with her • and was for? merJy Viper of Buda , and upon that account well known to the Germans . Here I met alfo with a French Book, con- cerning sJJlichael Cigala , another Impoftor, who had de- ceived the Emperour , and the King of France , and other Chriftiarn Princes. Which , the Interpreter to the Refident told me, the Turks very much laughed at 5 and that he was a Grecian born , and not a Wallachian . Of Paddre Otto - mmm ywho was thought to be the Grand Sigmors Brother, now a Dominican Frier , andwhoml had fee n at Turim , I could hear nothing, v There C 59 ) There were many thoufand Souldiers, and Horfes,m and about the City , and five thoufand Camels for the fervice of the Grand Signior , which being of different magnitudes, ages , and the bunches on their backs of different fhapes\» and in fome variety of colours, and treading foft,and with little noyfe , afforded me a pleafant fight^, when they were led by my lodging to watering at the River. When we read, that Mardonm , the Perjian General of of the great Army of Xerxes, wintered in Thef- faly ; It is nofmall teftimony of the fruitful- neffeof that Country ; and though the number of men was here very great at this time, yet was there no want of provifion , but all very cheap ; in a victualling houfe , I could dine with roaft and boyled , and Sherbet for the value of fix pence , and at an eafie rate could ob- lige Turks and Ghrijlians with a meal, which they would take very kindly. The Place was alfo extraordinary populous: there be* ing at that time fuch a mixed multitude in it. Yet was the City in very good order, and quietnefs. An Officer with a club in his hand , accompanied with about twenty perfons, walking about the Streets , and punifliing all per* | fons drunk , quarelling, clamorous , or afting any thing a- gaind good manners. When I was there in September 1669. it was very hot weather, and many were fick of Feavers,and Agues ; as they were at that time in mod parts of Europe , and at my re- turn into England I found many languishing under Quar- tan Agues , who had been taken therewith about that time* They were then alfo in their vintage , and we had the op- portunity of fading their Muft and new Wine; and the drifter TV£r,who would not be tempted withWine, would be much delighted, to take a little in the Muff. During the hot fweating feafon , we went often to the I 2 Barber, ( 60 ) Barber, who would handfomely perform his work , .and much to our refreihment ; trimming every man according to the fall) ion of his Country. The Greeks have a place, of thebredth of a Dollar , left bare upon the top of their Crowns ; and then let the hair grow round it ,.the hredth of two fingers, more or leffe ; after which they fhave all the reft of their head , and wear it bare. The Croatian , hath one fide of his head fliorn , and the other fide is neither ihorn nor cut , but the hair is let to grow as long as it will. The Hungarian fhaves his whole head , except his /ore-top. The Folander , weareth his. hairelhort cut , f® as it cometh down to the middle of his forehead , and the middle of his ear. The Turk fliaves his whole head, except a lock upon his Crown. The Francks (have not their heads , but wear their hair long, as with us, onely for the more amicable converfe , and that nothing about them might be offenfive to thofe,whom they live amongft , they often tuck it up under their caps- The Greek Pr lefts , alfo neither fliavenorcut their hair, but wear it as long as it will grow; and many of them have thick heads of hair ; but thofe , that have leaft , re- ceive moft refreihment here. The party, to be fliaved , fit- teth low ; and the Barber hath the better advantage , to Ihave much at one ftroke, he lays on very much foap , and holds his Rafor as a Knife, and in a few ftroaks finilheth his work. There is a veffel of water with a Cock hanging over their heads, which the Barber openeth as heplealetb, and lets fall the water on them, In oneof thefe Barbers-fhops in the City of Larijfa I faw an ancient large Tomb of Stone of a JaQis green co- lour, a noble Monument , but taken little notice of there, and the Barber had caufed a hole to be digged through the top- tep-ftone, and, put water into it , and made it to ferve him for a Ceftern. X was in fome doubt, how we fltould be accommodated for the exchange of our Ducats , Dollars, and other money we brought with us ; but we found ready accommodation therein from Mony-changers , who flood at Stalls in the Market-place for fuch purpofes , to change them into Me- dines, Afpers,and five fols pieces, whereof there was plen- ty in thofe parts* The great trading Streets were covered, as in other great Turkijh Towns ; The Shops are final!, but well fur- nifhed ; wherein hang all commodities , which may be had in a larger manner , if defired. The Shop-keeper fets like a Taylor in his Shop , and fo fells his Commodities unto his Chapman* who commonly- Hands in the Street, For o* ther Commodities , a manriding through the Streets crys them, and gives notice* where , andat what rate they may be had. Though X have beenmuch pleafed at the fight of the fine Stables of Horfes of many Princes in Chrijtendome, as at that of the Louvre in Paris. The Vice-Roy’s of Naples. The Duke of Saxonyls noble Stable at Dresden , and Count Wallefteynes at Prague in the laft of which each Horfehath a Marble Pillar by him, eats his Provender out of a Man- ger of polifhed Marble upon aPediftall of the fame , pla- ced in a Nicchio in which hangeth alfo his rack of ham- mered Steel , and over his head on one fide his Pifture as big as the life. Yet thofe gallant Horfes , I beheld at La- rijfa , were furprifing unto me , chofen from all parts of the Turkijh Empire ; which were fo richly equipped with Bridles and Sadies fet with pretious Stones , and withall fo tender mouthed and traftable* that it was a great de- light to behold them. I faw fome Tartarian Horfes , which are of Angular efteem/gr hardiuefs,lafting, & fwiftnefs,bue unfightly ( 62 ) unfightly, and promile little, and when Cha Gagi Jga, Em- baflfadour from the Cham of Hart ary , prefented fome of them to the Epperour of Germany, at firft fight, I thought them but a pi difull prefent. The Greek Merchants fome of them learn the Italian Tongue , in ordtr to their Commerce : which makes that Language of good ufe unto a traveller in thefe parts, where French and Latine are in a manner ufelefs. The Jews fpeak commonly Spanijh , as they do in fhow their valour. The Thejfalians are an handfome race of people , ha ving ; black hair , black eys, and their faces of a frefh and florid fanguine, much like our frefh complexions in England : fo that Strangers much admired the women , and fpoke often of the hd Jangue de 7 Greet r or fair blood of the Grecians* The Macedonians ., who live in hilly Countries , are of a; courfer complexion : and the Mereans , or FelofoneJians % who 1 i ve more South-ward, incline unto a fwart inefs. They have allways had the name of good Horfe-men* and the Country ftill aboundeth in good Horfes. They have alfo great Buffalo 7 Sytftcexmd the largeft in Greece y ex.~ ceptthofe of Santa Maura in Epyrta. There are alfo large and well-coloured Tcrtoyfes , of a fine yellow and black l and efteemed very good meat. But thefurks laughed at the Chriftians, for feedipg on fuchfcod^ where they might have . ( *4 ) have Mutton, Pullets, and Partridges. ' The Country produceth very large, fair , and delicious Figs, Water-melons , the largeft and moft pleafant I have tailed ; which were very refrefhing unto us, as alfofair and delicate Pomegranates , Orenges , Lemmons , and Ci* trons. Vines, which are low, like thofe about Montpellier, and not fupporred ; but the branches and clutters great, and the Grapes as big asgood Damfons , and of a delicious tafte. The Wine of the Country is rich , but much thereof hath a refinous tafte, or tang of the Boracho. They plant Tobacco, and efteem it better , then what is brought from other parts , as being more ftrong and pun- gent. The Fields are fpread with Sefamum , and Cotton Trees , but the Trees grow low, yet make a fair lhow. The Country abounds in Almonds , and Olives ; and the Greeks delight moft in the ripe Olive pickled, as we in the green. The Gourdes in the Hedges , with their large yellow Flowers , and the many forts of green Thorns , and ever green Oaks, make the ways plealant. The Ilex coccifera and Chermes-berry,or the Excretion, ferving for dying, and making the Confeftionof jikher- mes grows here. Upon the high Hills grow jifcleptas , and Helleborus ; in the ftony Plains Car dims glotofus , Cyjlus, Lavender , Marjerome , Rofemary , and other fweet fmel- ling Plants. The Plat anus or Plain-tree groweth moft fair, large, and well fpread in Macedonia , affording a refrefhing ihade ; fo that it is lefs to be wondredat, that Hippocrates found Democritus fetting under a Plain-tree at jibdera in Macedonia. Some of the feeds and tufts I brought with me into England. They ufe much Garlick in moft of their difhes,and their Onyons are extraordinary, as large as two or three fair ones with us , and of a farr better -tafte ; being fharp, quick ( *5 ) quick, and pleafantly pungent , and without any offen- five finell. Though I were no lover of Onyons before , yet I found thefe exceeding pleafant , and comfortable to my ftomack. They are ufed at moft collations, and eaten with bread in good quantity. I asked a Chians , then with us, who had travelled through moft of the Turkijh Dominions, whither he had any- where met with fo good Onyons , as thefe of TheJJaly ; who anfwered me , that the Onyons of nALgyp were better, which was the firft time I fenfibiy underftood the expreflion in Scripture, and ceafed to wonder, why the Israelites lingred after the Onyons of that Country. They have a Fruit which they call Tatlejan or Mclan zan , between a Melon and a Cucumber; out of which they make a very pleafant Difli , by taking out the middle or feeds of it , and filling it up with the meat of Sawfages, and then pare it, and boyle it* Of the Agents of forrain Countries , there attended on the Grand Signior , the Refident of the Emperour of Ger~ many, the Embaffadour of Ragujr , and another of Wallachia, which are Embafladours of the Confines; the Embaffa- dours for Trade , refiding about Confiantinople , and not obliged to keep clofe unto the Sultan. Larina being full and pefteredwith people, the Emperour s Refident defi- red of the Sultan leave , to abide in fome Neighbour Town ; who bade him to make choice of any place,or any Houfe he liked; which conceflion moved him tocaft his eye upon Tornovo , a large and pleafant City of Thejfaly , a- bout ten miles Weft- ward from Lariffa , and feated near the Hills ; where moft of the Inhabitants are Chriftians, there being onely three Mojcbea’s , but eighteen Churches of the Greeks ; whereof the chiefeft , which Iobferved, were thefe : The Cathedral Church of St. John , the Church of St. Demetrius, of Cofmus and Damianns, of the Nativity of K the ( 66 } the blefTed Virgin ; of St. EUas' {where there is alfo an ad- joyning Monaftery ,feated on the iicle. of the Hill) of St. mfafpss, of the twelve Apofties,* of St. Nicholas, {yfixh a Convent alfo,) and of S * Anthony the Hermite. Thefeifhop hereof is under the Arch-bifhop of Larijfa . An^ I could, not but take notice how theie Eaiiern parts of Europe' a- bounded with Chriftians of the Gree 4 Chijrch beyond my expectation, and fince they are thus to be found in ma- ny large Counrryes, In Gracia and the Grc^Iflands , in the Turkijh parts of Dalmatia and Croatia, in Rafcia , Bof nia , Servia , Thracia, Sagora Bulgaria , Sirfia y Bejfarabia, Coffackia , Rodolia , Moldavia and WaUachia , and the vaft Dominions of the Emperouf of Rufjia , they muft needs make a notable part of Chriftendome , and put me more fenfibly in mind of an expreffion of a learned Writer. I/' rrr jhould collect ,md fut together all the.ChriJlian equities f* R e g* ons in Europe which are of the Greek Com- munion- , and compare , farts pro - fe fling the Roman Religion Europe, we Jhould fnd the Greek fan to exceed . The Fields about this place are planted with Vines, Cotton, and Sefamum. The Emperours Refident UlufriJJimo Signore diCafa nova, was well accommodated here with a fair houfe, and had thirty "Turks and Chriftians in his Family, and two Janizz^ries attending at the Gate, good humoured and fair conditioned men , as could be wiflied. The Re- fident was a Milanefe by birth , a grave and fober per- ron , fomewhat melancholy , much addifted to his Book and reading , but very civil and courteous. He dined and flipped alone by himfelf ; his Secretary , Interpreters , and others of his Family , had another place of repaft , and were allways well provided, and ferved after the Turkijh manner. The Embafladour alfo of Ragufa made choice of the fame Town ; C 67 ) Town ; and their followers often met each other , and ma- ny courteous falutes palled between them ; but they were onely by civil Meflages , for they never met. Upon a. pun- ctilio > which kept them afunder , the Rafufa Embafiadour pretending a right to take the firft place , he being in the quality of an Embafiadour the other but of a Relident ; although he were much -defpi fed for it by the Get mans, and his Matters looked upon but as Gentlemen of the Sette Bandtere , or perfons t hat were and had been Subjetts and Tributaries under feven Matters, or foverain Princes. I mutt not forget Demetrius , a Greek Merchant of Eor- novo , in whom I thought I beheld the humour of the old Greeks , we were divers times entertained at his houfe with much generality , and hearty freedom. He defired us to enjoy his houfe freely , and to be merry after the mode of our own Countries : and, as an efpecial favour, brought his two Daughters to bid us Wellcome : and we took the liberty , after the cuftom of France , Holland , and Eng- land, to falute them ; they were handfomely attired , after the manner of their Country ; their hair brayded and hanging down their back ; their fliooes or flippers pain- ted , their nayls coloured of a reddifh colour with Cnd or Alcanna ; the leaves of which Plant , poudred and fteeped in water and wine , and layed a night upon their nayls, leaveth this tinfture, and is muchufedin Eurky ; where Tome delight alfo to colour the maynsand tayls of their Horfes. The Grecians of Scio alfo , who wear gloves (it being a rare thing to fee any here) do colour their gloves alfo upon thofe pans which cover their nayls. Cnd is a great Commodity in the Eurkijb Dominions, brought out of Arabia and c ABgypt , and to be bought in every good Town, or Fair. I brought a pound of it home with me, which loft not its tinfiuring quality. The Grecian Countrys , which I patted , are extremely K. 2 altered C 68 ) altered from that ftate, whereof we read in ancient Hifto- ry : as having fuffered fpoyling incurfions from many Na- tions , and a fatal conqueft by the Turks ; who utterly de- ployed many Towns and famous places , and changed the names of mod ; not leaving the old appellations unto Ri- vers , which molt laftingly maintain their ancient Names. I paffedmoft of the great Rivers in Macedonia , the Jxius Erigonus , and Aliacmon , which have now names of no af- finity Unto them. The River Eeneus , fo famous in the old Poets, hath loft its name , together with Apidanus, Enipeus , and others, that run into it. The Turks call Larijfa , Jeni- Sahar,and Thejfafy, Comemlitari. SOME (69 7 SO ME OCCUR REN Cl E3 AND OBSERVATION § : IN THIS JOURNEY I T isnounpleafant fight , to behold a new Scene of the World, and unknown face of things „ in Habits, Dy e t, Manners, Cuftoms and Language. A man feems to take leave of our World, when he hath paffed a . days journey from Rah , or Comrra : and, before he cometh to Buda , feems to enter upon a new Stage of the world, quite different from that of thefe Wefiern Country?" > for he then bids adieu to hair on the Head, Bands , Cuffes, Hats, Gloves* Beds, Beer : and enters upon Habits , Man- ners, and courfe of life : which with no great variety, but ' under fome conformity, extend unto China , and the utmoft parts of jffu. Though we were pretty well fecured by Authority for fafe travel, yet we were not without fear of the Huffars , till we came to EJfeck Bridge , over the River Dravus : for they are aftive perfons ; and underftanding the Language, will bolcHy range about for booty as farr as that noted paffe, , C 70 ) rpaffe ; and, knowing all by-ways, will rob and fpoyl whom they meet, efpecially the Jurkifb Subjects. Nor were vve without fear alfo of Gypfees , who are flout and bold , and fome of them have been noted Robbers. There are many of them in Bulgaria , Serbia , Bulgaria, Macedonia ; and fome I faw at Lanjfa , and other pares of Thefa/y, They are in moft Towns, and liveby labour, and handy-crafts Trades; many of them colour their hands and feet of a reddifh colour , with Cna, and think thofe parts fuller leffe from the cold thereby. Some G^jfy wo- men colour the ends of their hair alfo. I hough they be re- motely difperfed , yet they are thought to have had their beginning about WalLchia , and theadjoyning parts, many of them are conceived to be. fpies unto the 'Turk. A little before I came to Leopoldjladt , * by Freijladt ,a great drove of them appeared in thofe parts ; which the people fufpe- . fted to be Spies of the Vijier of Buda , to take notice of the State of thofe parts, and how that Fort proceeded. Travelling from Belgrade into Servia , we were in fome fear of being robbed: for we perceived three Horfe-men to ride very faft after us: and , when they had over-taken us , they rode about us , waving their Lances , and dis- charged their Piftols , but the Ghiata perceiving them to be Sf ahies , fhowed his Feather , and faid to me , difeharge one of your Piftols at randome , and let them know, we are not unarmed ; at which they went off, and we faw them no more. Car avanfar a j, Chan s, or places of publick lodging, built by Benefaftours , we liked not fo well as private Houfes ; and therefore, being but few in company , feldome lodged in them , for they are widt Rooms , and we muff provide for our felves therein ; and fometimes they are dangeroufly feated , fo that it was not fit to adventure our felves there- in, for fear of being robbed; for though Robberies be feverely C 7* ) feverely puniflied, yet are they frequently committed, and Gypftes are well verfed in that Trade , and therefore , in order to the fafety of Travellers ; drummers are appointed in- dangerous pattages; and in ^Macedonia , in a narrovr paffe , I faw an old Man beating a drum upon the ridge of a Hill ; whereby we had notice, that the pattage wasctear and free from theeves. We had the advantage of good accommodation for fra-, vel , for parting from Comoro, , our Boat was towed by a Saick of twenty four oars ; Hungarians rowing upon orya , fide and Germans on the other ; til] we came to Match, the Frontier Town, where we had a Turkijh Convoy ; who fa fining our Boat to their Saick with eighteen oars, rowed down the Danube', we carrying the Eag e on our Flag, and the ‘Turks the double Sword , and Half-moon , and palled b.y divers remarkable places to Buda, from whence we had good accommodation for. travel to Belgrade , by open? Chariots, with two, three or four Horfes on breaft ; which ■ with great fpeed conveyed us through that pleafant plain- Country r and from thence through Servia , and other Pro- vinces* we were furniflied with very good Horfes , which would travel at a good rate twenty miles in a Stage , and. were very fure of foot ; whereof I had goad experience, . when in fome parts we travelled over great Hills , unequal and craggy places, and over the bare Rocks. They are very free , and therefore the Owners of the Horfes took acceptions at our Spurs , which are feldome ufed by them, , and the Turks had none, but what we brought , and gave them. They are very tradable and tender mouthed ; and, ■when we mounted or alighted , would handfomely apply themfelves to fuch places : and when we walked* fome of them would follow us without leadings hey have a lighter and letter fiioe then our Horfes ; and when they have. food one foot, they take up the foot againftit,&fttting the other upon ! ( 74 ) manner, where they turn the dogs out of the Town at night and areas fecure thereby, as if they had an army of Watch- men to guard them.Some fuch trouble from dogs I remem- bred, that I had met with at the ftrong Town of Kcmara , when 1 came into the Town about midnight , which was fo full of dogs fiercely barking and running upon us , that to faveour felves,we were fain to rake fhelter in the Corps de guard, till a lodging was provided for us. I could not but pity the poor Chriftians , feeing under what fear they lived in thofe parts : when I obferved them to make a way, as foon as they perceived us comihg to- wards them. In Macedonia the men and women would be- take themfelves into the Woods to avoid us and we took the pains foraetimes to ride after them , to undeceive them of their folly, and neediefTe frights. But that which moved memoft , was the pitifull fpefta- cle of Captives and Slaves, which are often met with in thofe Countries ; together with the variety of their hard fates and accounts,how they fell into that condition *, fome by treachery , fome by chance of warr ; others by Pla- giary, and man-ftealing Tartar/, who plentifully furniflh the Turkijh Dominion ; fome fixed to one Mafter , others ha- ving been fold unto many, and at diftant places. But their condition is moft defperate , who are Slaves to the Court, and belong to the Grand Signior : for they are never to be redeemed. Of which kind I met with one at Egribugia in Macedonia , attending at the Poft-houfe ; who though he had no hard office >. yet was extremely dejefted upon this misfortune of Non-redemption. In Theffaly alfo I met with one Sigifinund , who had been a Slave to feveral perfons , and in feveral Countries. He was an Hungarian , born at Gran, and taken at the Battel of Barachan , under Count Forchatz, in the laft warrs ; firft ferved a Turk, then fould to a Jew who proved a hard Ma- fter ; ( 75 ) fter , then to an Armenian ; under whom he fo well acquit- tedhimfelf , that his Mailer gave him his freedom , and he made a fhift to come to Larijfa , where the Emperours Re- iident entertained him , I was very much pleafed with his converfation , being a worthy , hone, ft, and good natured man; and had maintained his Chriftianity in his feveral Fortunes. He fpoke Hungarian , Sclavcnian , Turkijh , Ar- menian and Latin: Chew’d me the draughts of many Mo- naileries, Abbies,$J7 Wofchea's, and confiderable buildings in jlrmenia , Perjia , and Turk/ : and I hope by this time he is in his own Country* The Turks who are well acquainted with the Captives of feveral Nations , make obfervations of them ; fo they fay, a Ruffian is bell for the oare, a Georgian makes a good Courtier, and an ^ Albanian , a good Counfellor. A Turk in our company, obfervinga Georgian Captive muchdeje- &ed at his condition , encouraged him , and bid him be of good cheer ; telling him he might come to be a great man, and one of the beft in Turky. The firft time I went to have a fight of the Grand Sig- nior , Ofinan Chians made no great hafle forward, and when I asked him the reafon , he replied I take no great pi eafure to be too near him : and afterwards when he talked of fome Bajfas who had been firangled, and I added that in this re- fped he lived more happily then any Baffa : he faid; Such things muft be patiently put up , all our lives are in the Sultans hands ; in your petty Kingdoms and States, men are tryed and convi&ed , but our great Empire cannot be fo maintained, and if the Sultan fihould now fend for my head I muft be content to lay it down patiently , not asking wherefore: and I remember his words were that in this Country we muft have , patienzafinaperder la tejla , e poi patienza , patience even to the Ioffe of our heads , and pa- tience after that. L 2 We ( 76 ) We had frequent Memento’s of mortality , by Graves and Sepulchres , as we pa fled ; efpeciaSy near Belgrade. For the Turks are commonly buried by the High-ways: yet their Tombs are not ordinarily Splendid, confiftmg onely of a Stone erefted at the head and at the feet : yet Some fet up Stones of two, three, or four yardshigh. Some have a Turoant carved upon the Stone , at the Head ,and others fee up two Pillars of Stone *, fome proceed farther, and raife the Sepulchres , as with us , and afterwards place two Pi lars upon them, one at the Head, and another at the Feet At Scoph I faw fair ones, after this manner, and two Sepu’chres in one of them: but the beft way I obferved in thefe parts , is by building a Pavilion fupported by four Pillars. As we travelled to the South from Jagodm in Servia . I faw upon the fide of a Hill , a large Turkijb Tomb, about four yards long , and a fquare place covered by it , which the Chiau s told me was the Tomb of one of their Saints , and accordingly performed his devotions at it, and at other places , on Thurfday nights, and Fi yday’s, I obferved the women to vifit the Sepulchres , and pay their devotions at the Tombs of their dead friends. This Gigamick Saint that lay buried here , was certain- ly a fit man in his time to wield the holy Club, with which the Tu )\ does propogate his Religion and Dominion , and if he were as long as his Tomb he w^as as formidable a per- fon as any of the Patagonian Gyants painted upon the Southern part of divers Maps of America with long ar- rows in their throats. I muft confefle it feems ftrange to me that the Stature of man fliould be extended to that height. Mr. Wood an ingenious perfon who hath made ve- ry fair and accurate Maps of the Streights of Magellan ,the I (lands therein , and the Coaft from the River of Plate to Baldzvia, in the South Sea : told me that he had feen divers Graves in the Southern parts of America near four yards ( 77 ) long , which furprifed him the more, becaufe he had never feen any American that was two yards high , and therefore he opened one of thefe’ong Sepu’chres from one end to the other , and found in it a man and a woman , fo placed, that the womans head lay at the mans feet , and fo might reafonably require a Tomb of near that length* But to return into the rode for our diverfion , we fome- times met with Turkijh Fairs, which are ordinarily kept in fome large ground , enclofed and divided into Streets and Pafies , according to the variety of Commodities to be fold , where a man may recreate himfelf with multiplici- ty of fripperies, and things different from thofe of our parts, and cannot want variety of Mufick ; which, though but mean, proved fome diverfion unto us. The firft Fair w ? e met with,, was at Lefioa or Lefcovia , upon the River Liperizza in Set via. It was no finall comfort to us, to find the Country fo free from the plague , which weonely met with .at Prejlim , a large Town, on part of the Plains of Cojfova, when we came into that place, we were entertained in a very good houfc, and brought into a large room , well accommodated with Carpets and other Ornaments; where we found a Turk ly- ing fick of the plague. The Chiam^ttt the Turkijh humour, made nothing ofit ; but fome others were not fo content- ed ; and therefore we removed, and travelled in the night, till we came to a Gypjies houfe amongffc the Hills, where we were well accommodated. Th e Turks were much pleafed to fee me write, when I came into any Houfe , I pulled out my Paper-book, to fet down what I obferved ; which when they perceived, they would come about me , taking notice of the paper , and binding of the Book, wondring to fee me write fo faff, and with filch a yen , which was made of a Goofe quit, they ufua’-Iy writing with a hard reed , cut like our pens. Many ( 7 * ) Many carry about them an handfome braffe Inkhorn, which they hang by their ftdes; their ink is good, paper finooth and polifhed ; whereon they will write very fair- ly, as 1 have to fliow in the Suit ms Paffe , which I brought home with me. When I found occafion, 1 ufed to look upon feme Maps, whi^h I carried with me: whereat Qfrnan Chians fimled, faying, there is no depending upon Maps ; they fetdown onely great Towns > and often falfely. Chiaufes are able to make the belt Maps, who paffe their days in travelling Countries , and take notice of all places , and know their 2 'urkijh names ; and in many particulars I found fome truth in his words ; for the Maps of Hungary are not exaft ; thofe of Servia , Bulgaria , Macedonia , and ihejfaly very imperfeft. In upper Hungary, many Towns are omitted ; many ill-placed , in the lower alfo not a few. The Danube feems to fetch about too much to the South-weft, before the Tihifcns enters into it. In Servia, Hifargick is placed too far from the Danube , which runneth by it , I find no mention of Frocupia , or Urchoop , of Lejcoa or Lefcovta, co nfiderable Towns ; the laft upon the winding River Li - perizza: nor of Kaplanly or Tlgres Town, in Macedonia ; nor of Kupruly or Bridge-Town: nor of Urama y Fyrlipe y Comonava , Eccijfo Verbeni > nor of the Lake Fetrishd , and Ojlrova , not far from it : nor of Egribugia, Sariggiole,Sar- vizza ; nor of the River Injecora near it : nor of Jleffon , nor Tornova in Theffaly, a handfome confiderable City e And he that travels in Macedonia , will never be able to re- concile the pofitions of Rivers and Towns to their ufual Defcriptions in Maps, although not long ago there have been large ones publilhed of Greece. I took great pleafure to converfe with Chiaufes , efpe- cially if they were of any years; for they fpeak divers Languages , and have feen much of the world ; are com- monly ( 79 ) mqnly good company , and able to give account of many things. Ofman Chians , who travelled with us , was about i fifty years of age , fpake Turkijh , Sclavonian and Italian : a ftout and faithfull honeft perfon, very cleanly and neac ; j he told me he had travelled the greateffc part of Turky ^ and growing old feated hunfelf in Buda , as a Chum to the Vu [ier ; which place pleafed him better then any in Turky : he took a civil farewell of me at Buda , bringing me out of 1 the Gates , and with many a Dios wifhed me a happy re- S turn into my Country , and indeed in all my journey I met with fair carriage , and civil ufage ; when I came into any Room where the Turks were fitting, they would falute me, and touching my hand , require me to fit down with them, ; then offer me Cojfe , and fometimes Tobacco , and at meals in- vite me to eat heartily; onely in fome p’aces, the boys, and meaner fort of people would call me Sajhtlu gaur , or hai- red Infidel. And a Jew at Larijfa , whom I had employed to buy fome little things for me ; and I faying , they were | too dear , gave me fotne ill Language , which fo difpleafed fome that were by , that if the Grand Signior had not been in perfon in the Town , they would have taught him other ; manners. The Turks took much Tobacco in the Countries which I palPed , and many carried little bags thereof by their : fides, which they take in pipes of an ell long, made of an hard reed,and an earthen head at the end, laying one end on the ground , and holding the other in their mouthes. I did feldome take any , but to comply with their kindnefs , I would notrefufe it 3 and by reafon of the length of the pipe , it was cool , and leffe difturbing ; they take it alfo I often in fnuffe. Signior Gabriel , the Emperours Courier, would tell them many ftories ; and while he was fpeaking, 1 they would come about him , and liffen vere attentively : and he would pull out his fimffe-boxe , and put fnuffe- pouder C Bo ) pouder into their nofes , which they would take Ve-^y kindly. They would be a lways gazing upon the Empe- rours Amies cut in a Stone, which he wore upon his breaft; whereupon he would takeoccafion to magnifie theEmpe- rour, defcribe the multitude of Provinces fubjeft unto him; and any thihg that might conferr unto his honour, whereof they would take great notice. I liked well the neatneffe andcleanlineffeof th e Turks, which weconverfedwith, and their walking of their feet, hands , and faces , though they had fome purifying con- ceit thereof ; while we travelled , the Chiam ,at the fight of a Spring, or clear water, would often alight, and wafh him- felf; and every morning was very curious in winding up hisTurbant, and combing of his beard; and would ask me, whither it were well done. When they go to the houfe of office, they carry a pitcher of w r ater with them ; they affeft privacy when they make water ; which they per- form, refting upon one knee, andftretchingout theother leg. Walking in Lariffa with the Chiam , the Streets being narrow , and full of people , and remembring the fad fate of Vincent le Blanc , who loft his liberty, befides other mif- fortunes, for pilling over a Turkijh Saints head , who lay interred in a place, he little fufpe fober courfe of life, and obedience to their Superiours ; that no Bafia can eafily intend a revolt, but fome others will difcover him , in hope to obtain his place, or fome great preferment; and that they fopun- ftually oblerve the duty of their Charges ; I am apt to think, or fear, if he , who putteth bounds to the Sea , and faith hither thou fihalt come and no further , doth not , out of his great mercy , put a flop to their further incurfions, they may probably obtain and confervea far larger Em- pire, and even all Europe, unto the Weftern Ocean. Certain it is that they are unfatisfted with their prefent bounds and look beyond Hmgaria , and I have heard them lay , wernuft in due time come to Beatch , for fo they call Vienna, and try our fortunes again . At this day the Star and Half-moon are above the Crofs, upon the Steeple of the Cathedral Church of St. Stephen, in the Emperour of Germany his Imperial City of Vienna : and it grieved me toTee in all the Confines a fort of Crofs which our Heralds do not dream of, which is a Crofs Lu- nated ( 8 3 ) nated after this manner, whereby the Inhabitants as they teftifie their Ghriftianity, fo they acknowledg the Turktfb power. A Crofs with Half-moons fet over the Churches in the Country which payeth contribution to the Turks in Hun* gury. The Star and Half-moon upon the Steeple of S. Stephen’ s Church at Vienna, A JOUR- C 85 ) A JO URNEY FROM KOMAR A OR COMOR A» TO THE M I N E-T OWNS IN HUN GAR Y; AND FROM THENCE TO VIENNA B EING at Komara , and having fatisfied ray curiofity as far that way as the Chriftian Domi- nions extended. I purfued my intention of fee- ing the Copper , Silver and Gold Mines in Hun- gary \ and being unwilling to return again to Tresburg fo far about to get into the road towards them ; [ attempted a nearer paflage , although there be few who go that way. And therefore I travelled along, the North- ( 86 ) flioar of the I (land of Schut , till I came to the Confluence of the River Waag and Danube , and then pafled over to a Fortification raifed fince the laft war , called Gutta , it lyeth in a Marilh ground between a branch of the Da • nube, the Waag, and the Swartz,, within a mile of Newhew- fel; which we plainly faw frcmi the Steeple of-the Church at Gutta, and could diftinguifh the buildings within it, as the BaJJd’sTalace formerly belonging to the Arch-Bi- fhop of Fresburg. TheChurch in the middle of the Town, the Tower to the and they often vifit it. March 23. WepafTed the River Gran early in the morning 3 and came among the Hills to Hedrytz , by which.Town runneth a fwift ftream very ferviceable to them which helpeth to move their Engines employed in the pounding, wafhing and melting of the Silver-ore. We travelled over a Mountain called Hr#, and came to Schem - nitZy the greateftof the Mine-towns in Hungary: and where great quantity of Silver-ore is every day digged. The Town is well built, hath three fair Churches in it, the greateft pare of the Inhabitants are Lutherans. There are alfo three Caftles here ; the old Caftle in the Town, where there is Wind-Mufick at fix every morning , and at twelve, and at fix at night. 2. The New-Caftle , built by a Lady who removed theGibbet from thisHill,and left a fair buil- ding -in lieu of it; the third is on ahigh peak, where there is a continual watch kept to difcover the approach of the Turks , who immediately give notice of it by the fliooting off a Culverin. The Streets lye up and down Hill, the Country hereabouts being all very uneven. There are very many Mines here, and many adventurers are induced to try their fortunes by the good fuccefs fo many C 39 ) many have bad : for if they find a Vein of Ore in any rea- fonable time, before they have quite fpent their Stocks in digging, they may probably exped great profit. Thefe Mines amongft others are very remarkable; the Windfchacht Mine, the trinity , that of Sr .Benedict , Sc. John, Matthias , and one called the three Kings ; but the chiefefland mod wrought are thofe of Windjchacht and trinity. Trinity-Mine is feventy fathoms deep, built and kept open with under-work at a great expence, much of this Mine being in an earthy foyl. The Ore of it is much efteemed,and is commonly of a black colour covered with a white Earth or Clay; fo that the ftreams where they work it, become milky and whitifh , and is that fubftance I fuppofe which is called Lac Luna, or the Milk of the Moon or Silver. Divers Veins in this Mine lye North , and other rich Veins run to the North-Eaft. When two Veins crofs one another they efteem it fortunate ; fo that all Veins of Ore keep not the fame point even in the fame Mine , which would be an help to difcover them ; but they have no certain v'ay to know either which way they run, or where they are , till by induftrious perfevfcring in the labour of the Mines they are at laft found out. They ufenot the Virgula divina , or forked Hazel-fHck to direft them, having no opinion of it, (as I obferved they had at the Silver Mine at Friburg in Mifnia , w^here I alfo learned the ufe thereof') but digalwayes as the Adventurers de- fire. They fliew’d me one place , which they had digged ftreight on fix years , when the Ore was but two fathoms diftant from the place where they firft began : and in ano- ther place they digged twelve years outright , and at laft found a Vein which inafhort time paid their charges. I was in many parts of this Mine , and went fo far , that at length I paffed quite under a Hill, and came out on the o- ther fide. N In ( 9o ) In Wwdfchacht-Mwe wherein I alfo defcended as far as the water would then permit me^defcending thrice alnioft perpendicularly about three hundred large fteps or flares of a Ladder,. 1 obferved a large Wheel deep in the Earth, of twelve yards Diameter; turned about by the fall of fubterraneous Waters, This Wheel moves Engines which pumpout the water from the bottom of the Mine, up to the cavity wherein this Wheel is placed. The water which moves this Wheel falls no lower into the Mine, but paffeth away through a Cunkulm made on purpofe, through which both this and the other water pumped from the deepeft parts of the Mine, do runout together at the foot of an Hill. Befides this Wheel there is another above ground which lyeth Horizontally drawn about continually by twelve Ho-rfes, which ferveth alfo to pump out much of the water of this Mine ; about all the Works whereof, I was informed that there were no lefs then two thoufand men employed. In fome places of the Mine it is very cold,and in others fo hot, that to refrefli my felf I was conftrained to go with my brefl: naked 3 although I had only linnen Cloaths on. Where they work it is alwayeshot , fo that they labour naked for eight hours if they are able * and then reft eight hours more. In this Mine they fhewed me a place where five men and a Perfon of quality were deftroyed by a Damp, for which reafon they have now placed a Tube there , the like they place over all doors , and over all wayes where they dig right-on for a great fpace and have no paflage through ; whereby the air is let in, let out, or carried round, and the Miners under-ground ventilated with it. The blackifh Ore is efteemed the beft ; much of it hath a mixture of a fiiining yellow fubftance or oShUrchajite, which if it be not in too great a quantity is not unwel- come,. ( 9 O - come , by reafon that it difpofeth the Ore to fluidity , or renders it more eafie to be melted ; but if it be in too great a proportion , they are of opinion, that it preys upon the Silver in the Mine ; and in the Furnace carnech it away while it melteth,by over-volatilizing it;and therefore they term it a Robber , as a fubftance which fpoyls and takes a- way the richnefs of the Ore. There is often found a red fubftance which grows to the Ore called Cinmber of Silver , which being grinded with Oylmaketh a Vermillion equal to , if not furpaflingthe Clamber made by fublrmation. There are alfo found in thefe Mines, Cryjials^/methyjls, j and Amethyjlme mixtures in the clefts of the Rocks , and j fonietimesnigh or joyned to the Ore; as alfo Vitriol na- j rurally cryftallizclin the Earth in divers of thefe Mines ; and particularly in a Mine in Paradife Hill; which then belonged to Mr* Jacobus Schrviboda an Apothecary, at vvhofe Houfe I lodged , and who preferred me with many curious Minerals. = And as there is great variety in the Silver-Ore , as to its mixtures with J Earth, Stones , Marchajite , Cinmber ^Vitriol , C^.So alfo in its richnefs;fome holding a great proportion of Silver in refpeft of others. An hundred pound weight j! of Ore fometimes yields but half an ounce or an ounce of Silver ; fometimes two ounces , three, four, five, and unto twenty ounces ; what is richer is very rare, yet fome hath been found to hold half Silver , and I have feen of it fo rich, as to be cut with a knife. A Specimen of each fort of Ore which they dig out of the Mines is carried upon its firft being difcovered to an Officer called the Probier er^ who is to prove and judge of its richnefs ; which he doth in this manner. Of all forts of Ores he taketh the fame quantity , the Ores being firft dry ed , burned , and pounded , he giveth an equal propor- N 2 cion ( 92 ) tion of lead to all, melteth and purifieth them, and then by exaft Scales takes notice of the proportion between the Ore and che Metal contained in it , and reports it to thofe employed in the great melting Furnaces ; who according- ly add or diininifh the quantities of thofe fubftances which are to be mixed with the Ores to melt them in the melting Furnace; as for example, to an hundred centen or ten thoufand pound weight of Silver-Ore , which holdeth a- bove two ounces and an half of Silver in an hundred pounds weight , they add forty centen of Leich , which is Ore pounded and wafhed ; two hundred centen of Iron- Stone , which is not Iron-Ore , but a Stone found in thofe Hills, of which the liver coloured is the heft. A quantity of Kis , or a fort of Pyrites , according as the Ore is mixed with Marchajite , and of Slacken as much as they pleafe. This Jaft is the fcum or cake taken off from the top of the Pan into which the Metals run, and is a fubftance made out of the former mentioned, by fufion. Whatfoever is melted in the melting Furnace, is let out through an hole at the bottom thereof into the Pan , which is placed in the Earth before it ; and thus expofed, it im- mediately acquires an hard fcum, drofs, loaf or cake, which being continually taken away, the Metal remaining be- comes purer ; to which is added lead which carrieth all the Silver down to the bottom with it , and after fome time the melted Metal is taken out; then being again melted in the driving Furnace, the lead or what elfe remains mixtwith the Sil ver is driven off by the blowing of two great bel- lows ; and runs over from the melted Silver in form of Li- tharge . That which firft comes over, is the white and that which comes laft being longer in thefire,is the red, not that it is Litharge of Gold, both being driven off from the fame Metak Moft of the Schemnitz ' Silver-Ore holds feme Gold ‘ which ( 63 ) which they feparate by melting the Silver, then granulating it and afterwards by diffolving it in Jquafortis made out of a peculiar Vitriol prepared at chremnitz , whereby the Gold is left at the bottom and is afterwards melted ; the jq, M fortis is diftilled from the Silver , and ferveth again for ufe. But it would be too tedious todefcribe all the works of thefe Mines which do welt deferve as accurate Defcriptions as thofe of ^Mifnia , and other parts of which AgricoU hath written largely , and very well in his Books Ds re Me tallica dr de foffilihus. Lenys alfoof Mine-works is e deemed , and Lazarus Erker bath band- fo nely defcribed the principal Ores and Mineral bodies. But certainly there are few places in the'vVorld to be coin- red with this , where Art and Nature drive to fliow their utmoft force and riches. They work in this Country much after the manner they did in the Emperour 'Rudolf hue his time ; who was a great undertaker and encourager of Mine-works ; but, many of their Inftruments and Engines are much improved. Notwithftanding the great quantity of Silver made e- very week at Schemnitz and carried away in Carts,! found foir.e d.fficulty to procure the lead piece there, and fcarce any one in the "Town could furnifh me with any that was pure , for the Money of the Country is mixed with above half Copper , and being defirous to fee what alteration di- vers of thofe Mineral-waters in that Country, would make upon Metals ; for want of other Silver , I was forced to make ufe of filver Crofles, Crucifixes and Medals , which j I borrowed. Near unto Schemnitz , , where old Schemnitz flood, is an high Perpendicular Rock , part of which from the bottom to the top is naturally tindured with a fhiningfair blue, fome green , and fpots of yellow in it. At firft fight I was much furprifed with the beauty of it, and could fancy nothing C 94 ) nothing like it * but a whole Rock of polifhed Lapis La- zuli : and I have heard from a Spaniard who lived long in the Wejl-lndies , that there is alfo a Rock like this nigh to the Silver Mines in Peru. At Glas-Hitten , an Hungarian mile , or about feven En- glish miles from Sebemnitz,. There was formerly a rich Gold Mine, but it is loft , no man knowing where the en- trance was fince the time that Bethlem Gabor over-ran that Country , and the Inhabitants fled away. The Owner notwithstanding left fome marks and directions whereby they might difcover it, with the Figures of his Inftruments upon the Barks of Trees ; which Inftruments they have already found by digging in the Earth , and thus much is intimated to them , that where they find a Stone, on which a Face is carved , they are then at it , and are onely to re- move part of a Rock with which the Owner flopped up the Mine. This place is much frequented by reafonof its natural 1 hot Bathes , of which there are five very convenient, with hand fome defcents into them , and covered over with large high Roofs. The Springs are very clear , the Sedi- ment is red and green , the wood and feats of the Baths un- der water are incruftated with a ftony fubftance , and Sil- ver is guilded by being left in them : But the moft remark- able of thefe Baths , is that which is called the fweating Bath, whofe hot Springs drain through an Hill, and fall in- to a Bath built to receive them; atone end of which by afcending I went into a Cave which is made a noble Stove by the heat of thefe Therms , and fo ordered with Seats, that every one who fits in it , either by choofing an higher or a lower feat , may regulate his fweating^ or enjoy what degree of heat he defireth. This Cave , as alfo the fides of the Bath are covered by the continual dropping of thofe hot Springs , with a red, white, and green fubftance, very fair and pleafing to the eye* „ Bath- C 95 ) Bathing my felf in the largeft of thefe Baths when there , were a great many men and women in it ; an aftive man to divert the Company, had privately conveyed himfelf to the top of the Houfe which covered the Eath , and on a fodain caft himfelf down into the water, and by taking e hold upon the bottom of the Seats kept himfelf under wa- ter for fome time ; afterwards a Serpent coming in f o the Bath through a channel which conveyed the water into i many of the women were afrighted at it. He ftill to com tinue his fervice and good will to the Company , was the firlt that would encounter it , and deliver the Damfels ; ' which he did in a fhort time,fo fuccefsfully,that he caught the Serpent in both his hands, and holding it out of the water, put it into his mouth, and bit the head off. Being taken with his good humour, I afterwards fent for him in o the Stove; and finding that he had been employed in the Mines, I asked him among other things, whither he had Been any natural Vitriol, and where , in the Mines 3 - cry ftalli zed in lumps , pure and ready for ufe, which he faid he had in many places , but in the greateft quantity, in a Mine now given over; by reafon that in fome places the Earth was ! fallen in , which was near to Schemnitz: And accordingly two or three days after he came to fee me at Schemnitz, brought me Lamps and Mine-mens habits for my felf, and two Friends more ; and we went with him under ground, till I came where he fliew ci me great quantities of it, much to my fatisfa&ion: the Vitriol there fhooting upon the Stones and Earth , upon the floar and (ides of the paffages, as it doth by art in the Pans, and about the Hicks, not hanging from the top, as in many other places I' have feenit, like to Ice-icles, GUfs-hitten belongeth to the Count~of Lifpey, of whole Family was the Learned tolyc&rpm- Procopius Pocmtss who was fent. fome time paft by the Arcb-Biflio-p of * T) 7 irahuro* < 9 * ) Fresburg to give an account of the rarities of thefe Coun- tries ; but his death hundred the publifhing of his obftr- vations. Esfenbach about four Englijh miles from GLfs-hitten and five or fix from Schemnitz, , hath alfo hot Baths; the Sediment of which is red , and turneth into ftone ; fo that I brought away with me pieces of it of five or fix inches diameter: I took alfo a large piece of this water petri- fied as it fell from a fpouc in which the waves of it are to befeen; but the fpout it fe!f although made of wood, was not at allchanged , as lying under ic. However, thofe Trees with which they built the fides of the Bath were fo petrified, that thole which lay next above the water, were intirely turned into Stone. And it was not unpleafant to obferve how nature did here aflift art, and out of the body of a Firre-Tree frame a Column of Stone. Nor is it much to be wondred at , that the wood under the water fhould remain unalterd whilft that above buffered fo great a change. Thefe waters are hot , and part of whatfoever is contained in them is fufficiently Volatilized to be carried up with the fteam of the Bath , and I remember in the Bath of the Green Pillars at Buda , I took notice , that the exhalation from the Bath reverberated bythe high Cupola built over it, and by the Irons extended from one Column to another , and by the Capitals of the Pillars was formed into long Stones Iik elce-ules , which hang to all the faid places, fuch as may beobferved in many fubterraneous Grotto's , and particularly in England in Okey-bole in So- rnerfet-fhire , and Pooles-hole in Darby-jhire. Sulphur alfo which is in great quantity in many hot Springs flyeth a- way continually, and is not to be found in them, 'if you boy 1 or evaporate the Bath water : and therefore to difeo- verit,! thought it more rational to look out of the water then into it ; neither was I more deceived in my con- jefture. ( 97 ) conjecture* then he who looked towards the Weft , rather then towards the Eaft to fee the rifing of the Sun. For upon many places which were over the Bathes , and recei- ved the fleams of the hot water, I have tetnSulphur to ft ick; and to fatisfie my curiofity further herein, Icaufedonce a Pipe to be opened ztBaden in j4vftria , through which the hot water continually ran, and took with my hand from the ! upper pare of the Pipe , divers Boxes- full of a fubftance fcarce to be diftinguifhed from Flower of Brimftone, Walking about alfo one day in the Sower Bath dXBaden y m& leaning over the Balliftres to talk with fome Friends who were then bathing themfelves ; I perceived that my But- tons and what elfelworeof filver,were all turned yellow of a fair Gold colour, although I were at fome diftance from j the water. Which made me try this experiment alfo,which j was to hang money over the Bath at a foot diftance , or at a greater, to fee what alteration it would make, and how foon ; which it coloured in a minutes time, and that which was nearer in half a minute. But to return to Eifenbach, there are two convenient Baths much frequented , and a third which is made by the i water let out of the former, called the Snakes-bath , from the number of Snakes coming into, and delighting in it when it is filled with thefe warm waters. March the thirtieth, I travelled from Schemmtz by Glafs-Hitten , and Jpfclsdorjf, where there is a Houfe of the Arch-Bifhop of Eresbnrg ; and afterwards paired the River Gran and came in between the Hills ; where in one place they have thrown up the Earth , and made a work from one ridge of the Hills to the other , to defend the Country , and hinder the Turktfb Excurfions towards Chremnitz : afterwards we proceeded by that Golden River and yellow Stream which waflieth all the Ore above till we came to the Town. O Chrem - ( 9 $ ) Ghremmtk, is a final! Town , but hath large Suburbs , andTyeth high ? St. Johns Church at fome difiance from it, is thought to ftand upon the higheft ground in Hungary-, This is theoldeft Mine- Town , and thericheft in Gold of all the feven in thefe parts , which arethefe, Schemmtz y ChremmPz Mewfol, Kmmgsberg^ Bochantz , Like ten and> Tiln. They have worked in the Gold-Mine at Chremnitz nine ' hundred and fifty years; the Mine is about nine or ten Mnglijh miles in length , and there is one Ctmtculw or Ho- rizontal paffage which is eight hundred fathoms long, cal- led the Frbjiail. The depth of i t is above one hundred and feventy fathoms ; they do not ufe Ladders to defcend in- to this Mine, but are let down at the end of a Cable , un- to which is faftned afling, or feat of Leather ; the Leather being broad, and divided ordinarily into two or three parts, fo that it is to be fhifted or changed as you find con- venience, and affords no uneafie feat even to fuch as are not ufed to it. Arid in this manner , whofoever entreth the Mine is let down* Through one of the Sebachtsox perpen- dicular Pits , of which there are fix, i. That of Rodol- fhus . 2. Queen Anne . 3. Ferdinand. 4. ^Matthias. §. Wind - febacht, and 6 . Leopold. I went down by the Pit of the Eniperour Rodolphus , gently defcend ing by the turning a- bout of a large wheel to which the Cable i£ faftned ? one hundred and eight fathoms deep into the Earth ; and after many hours being in the Mine, was drawn out again by Leopoldi Sehacht , or Leopolds Pit , or Shaft , (freight upa- bove one hundred and fifty fathoms ; a heigth furpaffing that of the Pyramids by a third part. At the bottom of which Scacbtr I was not difcouraged to find my felf fo deep in the earth, for considering that I was yet above three thou- fand miles from the Center,! thought my felf but in a Well, It is built on all (ides with Firre-Trees one lay mg upon another C 99 ) another on four fides from the bottom to the top , and after the fame manner all thefe Mines are kept open where j they have not a Rock on alludes. Many Veins of the Ore run to the Norch , and to the Eaft ; They work alfo towards one, two , or three of the clock, as they fpeak; for the Miners dired: themfelves under-ground by a Compafs not of thirty two points (fuch as isufed at Sea) but by one of twenty four, which they divide as we do the hours of the day into twuce twelve. Of the Gold-Ore fome is white, fome black, feme of it red, and fome yellow. That with black fpots in white isefteemed the beft , as alfo the Ore which lyethnext to the black Veins. This Ore is not rich enough to fuffer any proof in fmall parcels , like that of other Mines, whereby to know what proport ion of Metal is contain’d in it ; but they pound a very great quantity thereof, and wafli it in a little River which runneth near the Town: The whole River being divided and admitted into divers cuts , runs over the Ore continually, and fo wafheth away the earthy 1 parts from the Metallin, and from a clear River above the Town , by its running through fo many works , and over fo much pounded Ore, it becomes below the Town a dark j yellow Stream, of thecolourof the Earth of thofe Hills. | llnlefs it be upon fix days of the year ; two &t C s hriflma$, two at Eajler , and two at Whitsuntide , when the River ft felf as well as the Mine-men ceafeth from working , and is permitted to flow clear within its own Banks. There have been pieces of pure or virgin Gold found in this Mine, fome of which I have feen in theEmperours Treafury^ and intheEleflorof S’^^y’s Repofitory, one piece as broad as the palm of my band, and others lefs;and upon a white Stone many pieces of pure Gold ; but thefe are very rare* The common yellow Earth of the Country near Chrem - pb Q 2 * WtZ 7 C i©o ) flite^efpecia’ly of the Hills towards the Weft, although it be nor efteemed Ore, affords fome Gold. And in one place 1 faw a great part of an Hiil digg’d away, which hath been caft into the works, wafhed and wrought in the fame man- ner, as. pounded Ore with confiderable profit. Matthias Dollmger the chief Officer at Chremnitz , for the Mme-work , hath alfo lately invented a Mill to pound theOre finer then it was before ; and by this invention bath obtained a confiderable quantity of Gold out of that Ore which other-wife would have yielded none; inhisHoufe I faw many forts of Minerals , and was very kindly enter- tained by him ; and when I was at the bottom of the Gold- Mine he fent me down a prefent of excellent Wine to drink the Emperours health. SomepafTages in this Mine cut through the Rock and long difufed, have grown up again; and Iobfervedche fidesof fome which had been formerly wide enough to carry their Ore through , to approach each other ; fo as we patted with difficulty ; this happens moft in moifl places , the paflages unite not from the top to the bottom, ‘ but from one fide to another. They carry their Ore underground from one place to another ; or to the bottom of the Pit whence it is drawn cut, in a Box or Cheft which they call a Hundt or Dog ; this runs upon four wheels , is higher behind then before, and hath a tongue of Iron at the bottom , which being fit- ted into a channel of wood framed in the middle of the bottom of each paflage , it can no ways deviate, but keeps allwayes in the middle ; and by this means a little Boy will run full fpeed with three or four hundred pound weight of Ore or Earth before him, wherever you com- mand him , without any light , through thofe difmal dark paflages of the Mine: and it was very new to me to hear therattling they make in the Mine, and the alteration of •> : k j the ( IOI ) the found as they are nearer or further from us ; and to fee them come with that fwiftnefs out of the Rocks overturn their little Charriot 5 where they are to ieavetheir Ore, then turn again and enter thofe dark Caves with fuch a force and fwiftnefs. Not much unlike this is another inftruinent they have to bring the Ore from the mouth of the Mine, or from the Hills down to the Buchworke where they pound it and wafh it ; but inftead of a tongue it hath eight wheels or four rowlers and four wheels, and the way is made withFirre in fuch man- ner and at fuch adiftance that the rowlers rowle upon the wood of the Firre-trees. And thefe rowlers and wheels are fo contrived , that thefe Chefts can never overturn nor go out of the way, and a child draweth them, and fbmetimes a dog ferves the turn. To one Bucbmrke alone , they carry every week three or four hundred of thefe Chefts full, and each Cheft holdeth four hundred pound weight. There were two very bad ftrong damps in this Mine when I was there , and divers others that had not the like force to fuffocate in fo fmall a time. One of thefe Damps was in a Shacht Puteus or Pit , and the other in a Stall , or right-on paffage ; no Lamps would burn in either of them, yet the Miners would venture into them for fome fhort fpace of time : and we let one man down into that Damp which was in the Pit five or fix times ; but pulled him up again as foon as ever we faw his Lamp go out ; this place is moft poyfonous when the water is high, the vapour then arifing more ftrongly,the other Damp in the Cunicnlus they hope to remedy by perflation, and making or digging another paffage into it. I was informed that there bad beeen twenty eight men killed at one time, by Damps in four Cmiculi , feVenin each ; and in the finking of Leopolds Pit , they were much troubled with Damps which they remedied in this manner. They (■*<»'•) They fixed to the fide of the Schacbt or Pit a Tube from the top to the bottom ; and that not proving fuffi- cient they forced down a broad flat board which covered or flopped the Pit , or couched very near the fides of it on all ikies, but where the Tube was : and fo forced out all the Air in the Pit through the Tube; which work they were forced often to repeat. And now they having divers other paffages into it , the Air is good and fufficient, and I was drawn up through it without the leaft trouble in breathing. Alter mans Fore-ftall , a Cuniculits five hundred fathoms long, was burned in the year 1642. by the carelefnefs of a boy wiping the fnuffe of a Lamp upon the wood • and fif- ty men finothered in it ; they were all taken out except one, who was afterwards found to bedifiolved by the fharp Waters of the Mine , nothing efcaping either of flefli or bones , but onely fome of his cloaths. There is Vitriol in this Mine, white, red,blue and green ; and alfo Vitriolat waters. There is a fubftance found, which flicks to the Gold-Ore of final 1 pointed parts like needles , of a purple colour , and finning , the mother of which is yellow like brituftone, it is called by them Anti- mony of Gold. There are Cryftals found here , and fome tinftured yellow. There is a Vitriol-Mine inthefe Hills nigh the Gold- Mine, about eighty fathoms deep. The Earth or Ore where- of is reddifh, and fometimes greenilh. This Earth is in- fufed in water , and after three days the water is poured off, and boyled feven days in a leaden Vefiel , till it comes to a thick granulated wbitiih fubftance, which is after- wards reduced to a Calx- in an Oven, and ferveth in the making of Aqua fortis , or the feparating water ufed at Schemnttz. Where they pound the Gold-Ore , they lay a foundation three (log) deep cf wood , upon which they place the Qsc , over which there are four and twenty Beams arme d a^t the bottom. v^ith. Iron , which break and grind the Ore, befog covered all the while with water. Thefe Beams are . mpved by four Wheels, one Wheel to fix Beams , the water which cometh. out from the pounded Ore, is let into little Pits or Chefts commonly feven or eight one after another ; and afterwards into a large Pic of alrnoft half an Aker of ground, and then after feeling let out. The Gold-Ore in pouder or pounded is called Sikh, of which that is the richeft which is neareft to the Beams where it is firft pounded. They work thus day and night continually* The Candles which they make ufeof are of Firre or forne Refinous wood. They take the Slick wafhed fo long as perhaps in an hun- dred pound weightjthere may be half an ounce or an ounce of Gold and Silver, the greatdlpart ordinarily Gold, two thirds generally. (To r che Cbremzitz, Gald - Ore isfeldom without fome mixture of Silver , and the beft of the Scbemnitz, Silver-Ore yieideth an eighth part of Gold in proportion to the Silver \) to this Slick they add i Limeftone and Sclacken , and melt them together in the melting Furnace. This firft melting produceth a fubftance called Leek ; this Lech they burn with Charcoal to make it lighter, to open its body and render it porous , and then it is called Kofi. To the Rcfi they ydd Sand as they fee occafion. and melt it again in the melting Furnace ; then let it out into the Pan, and proceed as in the melting of Silver. They have divers other wayes to get the Gold our of 'the pounded Ore ? and I cannot omit to fee down this one , in which they proceed without Lead. They wafh the. pounded ore often 7 and lav \t wpomivr cy ■■ • _ upon C 104 ) upon Cloaths, and by the gentle oblique defending of the water over it , and their continual ftirring it , the earthy, clayiih,and lighter parts are waflit away , while the hea- vier and metalline remain in the Cloath , not much unlike to this proceeding is that with Sheep-skins and Wooll , which they place either in the water which comes from the works , or in rivolets which have their Heads hid in Hills and Mountains rich in Gold; fo that while the water and fluid parts pafs through or over them, the more folid , hea- vy and metalline are infnared ; and by this way fome have obtained the Golden Fleece. But to continue the manner of working with deaths , they wafh the cloaths in which the Ore doth ftick in feveral Tubs, and the water after fome fetlingis pour’d off from its Sediment ; which Sedi- .menc is again waflit and ftirdd up in feveral Veflelsand Troughs, till at length they fprinkle Quicksilver upon it, and knead it well together for an hour or two ; and then wafliing it again in a wooden Vefiel , after the feparating of much of it, which the Quick-filver toucheth not, by ftriking this Veflel againft their leg , they bring the Gold and Quick-filver together in an Amdgema. , to one corner of it. From this Amalgama they ftrain as much of the Quick-filver as they can through courfe cloaths firft, and then through fine. They put the Mafs remaining upon a perforated Plate , which they fet over a deep Pan placed in the Earth ; in the bottom of which Pari they alfo put Quick-filver: This Pan they cover, and lute the cover well , and then make a Charcoal fire upon it , and drive down the Quick-filver yet remaining in the Gold to the reft in the bottom of the Pan ; and then taking out the Gold, they caft it into the fire that it may ftill become purer. After fome few days having feen the moft remarkable curiofides of Chremmtz , I went to Nevofol ; parting thofe Hills which lie on the Eaft-fide of Chremmtz , upon the top ( r°5 ) top of one of which lyeth a vaft Stone or Rock alone by it felf, near the way-fide ; thefe Hills afford wood for ti e Service of the Gold-Mine. Faffing on further we were not far from Lila, a Village where they find Quick-filver ; and after we had travelled over the Quick-filver Hills , v e came again to the River Gran , upon which Newfol frand- eth; there is a Bridge of wood topafs the River at this Town, and an handfom building of Piles fharing crofs the River to flop the wood thrown into this River , ten miles higher , where the Country is very full of wood : and by this Artifice without labour or charge , it is conveyed to Newfol , to beufed in the working of the Copper-Ore, and in the burning , melting, calling, hammering of the j Copper. Newfil is an handfom Town , and hath a large Piazza , |j at the upper end whereof ftandeth a fair Tower. The Ca- ftlealfo is worth the feeing, in which is the Church co- vered over with Copper ; within the Church there are ma- ny?- Figures of carved Wood, and fome Reliques : but be- ing in the pofTeffion of the Lutherans they are not much re- garded ^ though carefully preferred. As I alfo obferved in fome Lutheran Churches in Germany , as at Nuremberg , and (^Magdeburg , where fome Reliques had been lefc; which they have not parted with, but ftill keep as rari- ties. At this Townj and near unto it, are the greateft Copper- works in Hungary, the body of the Copper being very ftrongly united to its Stone bed, or Ore, thefeparation of it is effe&ed with great labour and difficulty ; for the Copper-Ore taken out of the Mine is burned and melted fourteen times before that it becomes fit for ufe ; and firft it is melted with a Stone which they call Flufs-ftein , and its own drofs, and with Kis , or a fort of Pyrites . It is af- terwards carried to the Rojl-hearth , where it is lay A ed up* P on ( 10 6 ) on great Racks or heaps of Billets , and thofe fee on fire under it ; by which means it is burned into a fubftance called Roji, and this is repeated feven or eight times; af- terwards it is melted again in the melting Furnace , and at two Furnaces more at MifiniUs , and twice at the Ham- mer. Here they alfo melt Kis which is brought hither from Jeftm , which fubftance melted is ferviceable in the mel- ting of Silver. At not far from hence they get Silver out of Copper, which they feparate thus : They add Lead to the Copper when it is melted, and takeout the Metals melted together in Spoons or Iron Difhes. When it is cold they give it a ftrong fire again as it lyeth upon crofs Bars, untill the Silver and Lead melteth and falleth through. When the Copper hath palled its foft melting and is fit for ufe , they cut it in pieces, with great Hammers which are fharp, to move everyone of which there is a Mill on purpofe, which with great force lifeeth up the Hammer : and to fliape and form it into Veflels or Plates, they have other Hammers , which are flat or round according as they in- tend to frame the Copper. The Governour of thefe Works at Newfil was highly obliging , and befides the giving us opportunity of feeing every thing we defired , he fent me a handfom prefent of Wine and Fowls , and wrote a Letter to tHe Prafefl: of the Copper-Mine at Herrn-grundt to fhew me every thing that was curious and obfervable in that Mine. Herrn-Grmdtis a little Town feated very high between two Hills, upon a part of Land of the fame name, an Hun- garian mile diftant from Newfol. The Country about was then all covered with Snow after we came to fuch a heighth, but in the Valleys, and in our journey from Nexv- fit hither we met with none ; fo that we found the Aire very C 107 ) very piercing as we pafTed towards the entrance of the Mine in Miners habits ; which habit confift'sof a Linnen Coat and Drawers , a ft iff round Cap , like the crown of a Hat, a leather Apron turned behind , and two pieces of Leather tyed to the Knees , to defend thofe parts againft any fudden ftriking againft the Rocks, or the fall of Earth upon them. In the Mine we were warm enough. I went into this Mine through a Cmiculus called Tach~ fioln , and continued divers hours in the Mine , and vifited many of the rnoft remarkable places in it. The fteepdef- cents in this Mine are made by Ladders or Trees fet up- right, with deep notches or flayers cut in them to ftay the foot upon : They are not troubled with water , the Mine lying high in the Hill , fo that the water may drain away ; but they are molefted with duft , which is choaking and fretting, and alfo with pernicious damps. In one place of the Mine they ftiewed me the manner how they had lately cured a very bad Damp by a great pair of Bellows , which were blown continually for many days 3 and in divers other places the Damps were fo ftrong as to hinder the Work-men very much in their labour, and thefe Damps are not only mes with in places where the Earth is full of Clay or the like fubftances, but alfo where it is rocky, and one place they fbewed me w T here there had been a pernicious Damp, and yet the Rock fo hard, that it could not be broken by their Inftruments ; but the def- cent was all made by the means of Gun-pouder rammed into long round holes in the Rock, and fo blown up. Much of this Mine lyeth in the Rocks where they have no need of Wood-work to keep it open , and fome paf- fages lye between the Rock and the Earth , fo that they are kept open upon one fide by Firre-Trees , and on the other fide with Stone , the paflages alfo are not fo regular as at Gbremnitz , for many here are neither horizontal, nor near ( ioS ) to a perpendicular, but moderately inclining up and down, and there are many large Cavities within. In one place where we defeended obliquely to go to a remarkable part of the Mine , we found that the Earth had fallen in and flopped up the paffage , but one of our Guides unwilling to go about, and the Earth being yet loofe, he made a Bur- rough into it and digged his way through, although the Earth continually fell upon him and covered him; and got at length through and tumbled down amongft the Work-men below, with a great quantity of Earth after him; with which they fo fpeedily laded their Barrows and Hundts , of which I fpake before , and the Boys ran away with them with fuch fwiftnefs, that in a lhort time he made the paffage clear again up to the place where he had left us. The Veins of this Mine are very large , many of them, fuch as are termed cumulate , and the Oreis very rich, in an hundred pounds ofOre they ordinarily find twenty pounds of Copper, fometimes thirty, forty, halfCopper, and even to fixty in the hundred. Much of the Ore is joyned fo faft to the Rock, that tis feparated with great difficulty, and in many places the Ore and the Rock are one conti- nued Body or Stone, onelywith this difference that one part of the Rock will yield Copper, the other none; which is known and diftinguiflied by the colour, and eafily at firffc fight, the Copper-Ore being for the moft part,efpe- dally the bed of it , either yellow or black; The yellow is pure Copper-Ore , the black contains alfo a proportion of Silver. There are divers forts of Vitriol found in this Mine, white, green, blue, and a red clear tranfparent. There is a * 1 fo a green Earth or Sediment of a green Water , called Berg-Grun , ufed by the Painters ; there are likewife Stones found of a beautiful! green and blue colour , and one fort upon ( ) ^pon which Turcoifes have been found , and therefore cal- led the Mother of the T urcois. There are alfo two Springs of a Vitriolat Water which turn iron into Copper , called the old and the new Zi- ment\ thefe Springs lye very deep in the Mine , and the Iron is ordinarily left in the w r ater fourteen days. Thefe Waters are very profitable , feeing that the worfl: fort of Iron, and ufelefsold Iron is hereby turned into the pureft fort of Copper, which hath this commendation above o- ther Copper to be more ductile, malleable, and eafiiy mel- ted ; and I have melted it without . the addition of any other fuhftance, without difficulty. Whilft the Ore of Copper nmft run through fo many Fires and Furnaces to be brought to any thing. Of this fort of Copper I took a good quantity out of the old Ziment y and 1 took alfo a piece of Cop per of the Figure of a Heart which had been layed in it eleven or twelve days before \ having the fame Figure, but as perfectly Iron then, as it is at this day Cop- per. Some will not have this to be a Tranfmutation of one Metal into another , but that this Water of the Ximent being faturated with a Vttriolum Veneris , and meeting with fuch a body fj ready to receive it as Mars, it depofeth Ve- nn*) who immediately infinuateth heir felf fo far into Mars , that fhe doth divider e dr imperare , and at laft fhe fubfti- tutes her own body,and precipitates that of Mars* in the changing of Iron into Copper in thefe Springs, many parts are indeed often feparated, and lye at the bo> tom in pouder, but thefe parts are not Iron but Copper ; and I have taken of this pouder out of the Spring , and melted it into excellent Copper ; fo that if the Iron be not changed , I know not what becomes of it. Tins Opera- tion which nature fo curioufly performs in the Mine , I have fince feen attempted to be imitated by Arc \ ,and id. my judgment fuccefsfully. After c no ) After that I had feen many of the moft remarkable places in the Mine , I returned to the Verwalter of Hcnn- Grundt his Houfe , and put my cloaths on again in the Stove : where we were afterwards very kindly entertain- ed. He lhewed me a Map of that Mine wherein we had fpent moft part of that day ; and the delineations of all thofe places we had been at, with a Scale to meafure the lengths and di fiances ofall Paflages and Places in the Mine; anditwasvery delightful to fee fo large a Draught or Pi- cture of fo fair a Subterraneous City : nor can I term it lefs, in which there is more building then in many. The extent furpafleth moft, and the number of the Inhabitants are confiderable , their Order admirable, their Watches exaft, their Reft undifturbed , grateful after Labour and refrefliing , they repofing themfelves eight hours in the hollow of a Rock after the fame time fpent in labour; befides this Map, he flhew’d me many curiousMinerals taken out of that Mine, and by heating the Copper-Ore, and call- ing it into water , made the water like fome natural Eaths which arife nearthefe Hills. And upon my •com- mending the X'ment waterand its ftrange Operation upon Iron, he prefented me with divers fair pieces, and a chain of Copper tranfmuted in thofe Springs. They make al- fb very handfome Cups and VefTels out of this fort oif Cop- per , and we drank out of one of them which was gilded over, and had a rich piece of Silver-Ore, faftned in the mid- dle ofit ; and this Infcription graved on theoutfide: Bifen ware ich , Kupfer bin ich Siiber trag ich , Geldt bedeckt mich. i. e. Copper I am, but Iron was of old, Silver I carry , cover’d am with Gold, From ( «•* ) From Herrn-Grundt we came to Stuhn , a Town three Hungarian miles diftant from Newfol, and twofrom Chrem- nitz; where near untoa Rivolet there are divers hot Baths of great efteem, and much frequented ; the water whereof is very clear and fmells of Sulphur , the Sediment green ; it colours the wood over it green and black, but doth not change the colour of Metals fo foon as moft others ; I left money in it a whole night , which was yet but faintly co- loured. The Springs arife underneath, and pafle through the holes in the plancher of the Baths. The heat of thefe is anfwerable to that of the Kings- Bath in England ; there are feven in number : The firft is the Noblemans Bath, the fecond the Gentlemans, the third the Country-mans - ', the fourth the Country-womans, the fifth the Beggars Bath, the fixth for fuch as are infefted with the Lues Venerea, the feventh the Bath of the Gypfies. Thefe Baths are in a Plain encompafled on all fides with Hills, the nigheft unto them are towards theEaft ; and it is the lame ridge of Hills which on the other fide are fo rich in Me- tals, 1 bath’d in one of thefe and met good company that I was detained too long , and received fome inconvenience from the heat of the Bath, nor could I commend t heir cu- ftom of eating, drinking, and fleeping much while they bathed. From Stah'n Bad we went to Boinifz, eroding the River Nitra and leaving Privitz , a large Town on the left hand. . At Boinitz there are alfo five natural Ba ths of a inodera t£ gentle heat delightfull to bathe in , being much beaut ified by Count Palfi Palatine of Hungary, and all of them co- vered under one large roof. The firft is the Noblemans Bath built of Stone, defeended into On all fides by Storied ftairs^ the other four are of wood, very handfome!^ and well built, where it wasaplesfuretoustd fee the Boys andGirksdive fo finely for any thing that we caft in. l A» dial bout ( M2 ) bout this part of the Country there groweth very much Saffron. From Boinitz we went to Wejlomtz , two Bulgarian miles, and from Wejlomtz the next day, we arrived at Tren* [chin , which they count four Hungarian miles ; but fuch long ones they are, that we were travelling from before Sun-rifing till eight of the clock at night, before we could come to our journeys end. Prenfchin is a handfome Town feated upon the River Waag, over which there is a Bridge of wood ; the piazza is fair, the Jefuites Church handfome, the Caftle feated ve- ry high,eafily difcernable at twenty Englijh miles diftance, and belonged to the Grajf Jellhafey . There are two warm Baths a mile from the Town, and a great number of Springs of Mineral waters in the Country about. Here we met with Count Rotball going from the Etnperour to treat with ^Ahaffi Prince of Pranfylvama his Commiflioners at Pope- ries , where I engaged fome of his Attendants to make en- quiry into the Salt-Mines of that place , or any other , ac- cording to the inftruftions I left with them , and after- wards I received an Account to this effeft. Half an hours going from the City of Eperies in upper Hungary , there is a Salt-Mine of great note from thefirft place of defcent unto the bottom, it is about one hundred and fourfcore fathoms deep. Into this the Miners defcend firft by' Ropes , and at laft by Ladders untp the lower parts. The Mine is for the moft part in an Earthy, and not a Rocky ground. The Veins of Salt are large , and there are pieces to be found of ten thoufand pound weight : they commonly hew out the Salt into long fquare pieces of two foot in length, and qne in thicknefs , and for ufe it is broken and grinded between two Grind-ftones. The Mine is cold and moift , but the Salt being a Stone- fait, ( ”3 ) felt, is not eafily difTolved, or at leaft in any great quantity by danipnefs or moifture ; yet much of the water of the Mine is impregnated with fait , in fuch fort that being drawn out in large buckets , and afterwards boyl’d up , it .affords a blackifh Salt , which they give to their Cattle in that Country. The colour of the ordinary Stone-falt of this Mine is not very white, but fomewhat grey ; yet being broken and grinded to pouder , it becomes as whire as if it were refi- ned, and this Salt confifts of pointed parts or fofiets. Ano- ther fort of Salt there is alfo , which confifts of Squares and Tables ; and a third to be found of fomewhat ftirious or long (hoots. Nor is all the Salt of this Mine of one colour , but of divers ; that which is found grofly mjxt with the Earth receives fome colour from it ; and even that which is molt pure and refembleth Cryftal , doth often receive tin&ures of feveral colours ; in the middle of a Cryftal-falt with long (hoots, I have feen a delicate blue ; and at Count Re- tkall his Houfe at Vienna , I few a large piece of a fair tran- fparent yellow. There are alfo fome pieces fo clear and hard, that they carve them into divers Figures , as if they were Cryftal it felf. Of all thefe forts mentioned I alfo obtained fome pieces , and broughc them with me into England. But it is time to conclude this long difcourfe of Mines and Minerals , which may feern 'of little concern unto ma- ny *, yet for the fatisfadion of the more curious in lb con- fiderable a piece of Naturals , in places little known unto us ; and withall , undefcribed by any Englijh Pen chat I know ; I would not omit this particular account there- of. I continued my journey near to the River Waag , and came to Neve Mnefie , and from thence the next day to Q V&nm C 114 ) Timaw a City feated upon a Plain, and to be feen at a great diftance ; it hath almoft recovered itfelf out of the Afhes that it was reducedinto fix years before:theday following we got to the Danube again , and lodged that night at Pres- burg , whereof I have f^oken elfewhere ; and then pafilng the Danube in two Ferry-boats, we travelled by Homburg Tower , by Haimberg Hill , by theTown of Hahnberg , by Regelsbrun , Vifihet and Sw?chet , and fo came to Vienna . A great part of thefe Countries of upper Huqgarz* through which I travelled, had a different face from that of Aujiria , and from what they had formerly been. For fome places had been burnt or plundred byth t Tartars and Turks in the late war , and divers pay contribution to them ,, fo that many live warily and meanly to become lefs noted : And in divers places tfeeir Houfes are barrand unfurnifhed ; and it is well if they have any other Bed then one for the man of the Houfe and his wife. Even in parts of the Country better provided, and under the Em- | perour , a great part of the people being of the reformed Religion, are under fuch hard meafure and fears that they live in little content, and being of a ftout and perfevering temper, they may in time become fodefperate , that if the Turk fliould break powerfully in/tis probable they would not fight fo heartily againft him as in times paft. There are many Cahinifis , many Lutherans ; they were formerly almoft all Lutherans in the Mine-Towns,but now the Offi- cers are of the Rowan Church. At Schemnitz a very fair Church was lately taken from the Lutherans ; and they told me that at Boinitz , and the Country about. Count Palp caufed all his Lutheran Tenants to change , or at leaft to declare the change of their Religion, or elfe to part with their Houfes and Lands : There are alfo many Anabaftifts up and down, more obferved for their neat working in Mother of Pearle then. any thing elfe. The Unitarij live ( ir S ) in the farther parts of upper Hungary towards Tranjyha- nia, and havethe commendation to fpeak generally Latin, even the Hungarian Catholicks are much diflatisfied at the intrufionof the Germans , and their encroaching upon them, they lookjealoufly upon the Court at Vienna , think themfelves not regarded according to their merits or a- bility of their Services , nor the Hungarian Priviledges well obferved, fo that they can fcarce diflemble their Dif- contents, which may in time prove of very bad confe» quence. Q* A JOUR. • ' . . ( l 1 1 ) - ■ iatofic' . ' ■ ' ' . ■ ■ ' ■ ■ (53 - - V j; -V-ViCI Cii/i; • v. ■ ‘ • '•? c "' - i- f JI 7 ) A JOURNEY FROM VIENNA INTO STYRIA, CARINTHIA, GARNI OLA, FRIULI. Unto the ftrange Lake ofZ irebnitz#. to the Quicks filver-Mines at Idria^ and to other remark- able places in the Alj>e$. W H I L E I remained at Vienna , I took the pains to fee divers places not far diftant fromit, as N'eugebdu, Kaicnbcrg, Clajler Niewberg, ltzing, Baden, Laxam - burg , Nevefidler-See , with others; and afterwards made a journey unto Venice , not by the Sta^e*- Goaches which keep one conftant road , but chofe rather; to perform it by Hotfe whereby I might ftay in anyplace,, or go out of the road at pleafure. The firft confiderable place we faw was Baden , about four German miles from Vienna , a pretty walled Town feated near a part of Mount Cetius , which divided Nort* cum from Pannonia ; a Rivolet named Stvechet paffeth by it , which afterwards enlargeth and runneth into the Da™ mbe about a Germa&mile from Vienna , there are three Churches, that of the Augujliners , of our Lady, and S. Ste- s - fhen. ( n8 ) phen ; but this place is moft remarkable for its Bathes which are much frequented from Vienna and thefe parts. They are nine in number , whereof having given a parti- cular defcription to be feen in the Philofophical Tranf- aftions for the year 1670 . 1 ihall onely name them here.The Dukes Bath which is the largeft , • fquare , and in the mid- dle of a building of the fame Figure, the fleam pafleth out by a tunnel at the top. The Bath of our Lady , one end whereof is under a Church of the fame name. The new Bath, St. Johns Bath of a triangular Figure; thejetvs Bath with a partition to feparate the men from the women; The Beggars Bath fo fhallow that they lye down in it ; the Bath of the Holy Crofs chiefly for the Clergy ; St. Peters Bath ; and laftly the Sower Bath fet about with {lone Ballefters , and covered with a handfome Cupola and Lanthorne. They are all enclofed , the Seats fides and Bot- toms being made of Firre. They ufe no guide as with us, ; but direft themfelves with a fltort turned Staff, and the hot- teft of them come fliort in heat of the Queens Bath in Eng- land. Here we met with very good Company , and al 1 kind of accommodation at no dear rate. A Captain of the Empe- rours whom I had accompanied to thefe Baths as a token of his love gave me a Gempskugel which is faid to be an excrefcence upon the Liver of a wild Goat of Tyrol, and highly cryed up in Germany for a fignal remedy againft the difeafesof the Liver , malignant Feavers and the Plague, and many are fo obftinately credulous as to think that whofoever taketh it becomes invulnerable for twenty four hours after. Having bathed in the Baths , and taken a draught of the Town, Heft IWe#, and the next confiderable place was Nevofiad , oneof the chiefeft Cities in Aufiria ; it is of a Fquare Figure with a Piazza in the middle of it, two fides whereof ( **9 ) whereof are arched and fupported with Pillars : there are : four Gates, three whereof are to be feen from the Piazza m r St, Jacobs is thechiefeft Church which hath two Steeples in the Front. The Emperour hath a Pallace here of a fquare Building with four Towers $ .which are to be feen a great way off, as is alfo tnoft part of the Town , as lying in a Matriih ground, and in a plain Country ; it is encom- pafied with a Ditch and two Walls, the one very low , the other feems not ftrong; yet as they told me at one time the Turk could not take it , but left it upon condition that they might take fomething out of the Town ; which being: granted they took the Prongcr or Whipping Poft, and carri- ed it unto Conftantinople. At this place Count Peter Seri/si and Frangipani were beheaded the laft year , as beingxhief Contrivers in the Hungarian Revolts From hence through the Plains we came to Mount Sime - impairing by Newkirckel , where there is a Chappel with a little red Pinnacle which they fay was built by an Eng- lijb King; Ifuppofeby King Richard the firft who was kept prifoner in Aufiria in his return from the Holy Land, whofeRanfom built the old Walls of Vienna* Mount Si- meren is a part of Mount Cetius upon the top whereof ly- eth an heap of Stones which make theboundarie between Jujiria and Styria ; the afcent of the Hill is fteep arid fto-> ny ; fo that fometimes it takes twenty four Horfes or> Oxen to draw up a Cart or Coach. We lodged at Schotwien or Schadtmen , a ftrange Town > fea ted between Roeks upon the paffage of the Hills, the Houfes upon the fid es of the Roeks are inaccef— fible but from the top of the Hills , and looking cfc ver the Plains, ferve for Watch-Towers; this is a fad place, and called by fome Clattfira ^AufirU ; havings the Mountains on each hand , and fliut up with a Gate at each end , a fmall current coming down from the Hills, is-* fc admitted! ( 120 ) admitted into the Town under the Wall , which put me in mind of the Piflure of the Wall to the Kingdom of Chi- na, wherein is expreffed the manner of the Rivers running into China, the Wall being Kill continued over them. From hence I came to ^Mehrzufthlag , the place where they beat out the Iron into Bars; fo to Keimbxrg palling by a fwifc final 1 River named Murtz, then travelled by a Caftle be- longing to the Family of S tubnberg, which is efteemed one of the Ancienteft in Germany , and came to Prug feated upon the River Mur or Muer a fwift large River , but not navigable , although after it hath palled by Gratz and Ra- kenburg it enlargeth. Prug or Murifons is not ill built confidering the Country , and hath a fair Piazza. Another Town of this name I had feen before feated upon the Ri- ver Leyta, and for diftinftion called Prug Upon the JLeyta , fo forward by Luheim where the Staple of Iron is- I came to Knitelfeldt and Judenburg ft ill nigh to the River Mur , the next day to Hundtsmark and Nevemarle, then to Freifach , which fome think to have been Virunum , others Vacorittm , in fight of Altenhofn, the Caftle of Itro- witz, and the Caftle of Tottenbrun, which belongeth to the Arch-bifhop of Saltzburg. Then to St. Veit or Sr. Faith, formerly the chief City of Carintkia , feated upon the Confluence of the River Gian and Wunichyt is wallled about, hath fix Churchesin it, a Piazza alfo, and in the lame a remarkable Fountain with a Laver or Bafon of white Marble made out of one Stone, which was five of my fathoms in circumference : this no- ble Antiquity was brought from Saal or Zclfeldt , a place not far off, and abounding with Roman Antiquities. In fight of Uitopo'lis or St. Veit , there are four remark- able Hills, as the Hill of St. Veit, St. Ulrick , St. Laurence, and St. Helena , with a Chappel upon each of them , to all thefe upon one day in the year the Inhabitants go in d» votioa C 121 ) votionon foot , although to perform the fame they muit travel above thirty Englijh miles. We flayed at St. Veit, and had the divertifinent of a La- the Comedy at the Francifian Convent , it was in May when the higher Hills were covered with fnow, but the lower were all green, full of Firre and Larch-trees, it thundred and lightned very much , and as foon as it began they rung their Bells, Many here have great throats , fome as big as their heads, many are blind , divers dumb and fools withall ; without the Town there is an Hofpitalfor fuch as have loft their voice, their wits, or are otherwife oppreflfed by their great throats, many of them cover their throats, which otherwife are very ill complexioned in cold weather. Men and women have them , the better fort of people which live well drink wine and good beer , are leffe fubjeft to them. I faw bigger throats in thefe parts, then any I had obferved in the Alpine parts of Savoy . St. Veit whofe name this place beareth was a zealous Chriftian who laboured much in the Conversion of thefe parts, and was perfecuted under Dioclefun. Many Churches and Towns do carry his name in other parts of Europe, and the people have an opinion of St. Veit in the curing of that dancing difeafe called Chorea San Hi Viti. From hence we travelled to Sad , or Solua , anciently a Roman Colonic , and let down in the Map of Wolfgangus Lazirn by the name of Colonia Soluenfis 5 a Field near un- to it , is called Ager Soluenfis or Zolfeldt , a place very fruitfuHn Antiquities, many whereof have been carried into other parts: in this Field I faw that nmch-fpokeo of Antiquity of the Kings Chair ; it is made of Stone fet together in the form of two Elbow-Chairs turned back to back. Upon three of the Stones there are Infcriptions, but furely more ancient then the Chair. At theinftalling of the Duke of Cmntkia, whither he be King , Prince, or R Emperour# ( 122 ) Emperour, either he himfelfor his Siibftitute fits in one part of the Chair towards the Eaft , and a Baur or Coun- try-man in the other part of the Chair toward the Weft ; and among other Ceremonies , the Country-man rifeth up and prefents the Duke with a fat and a lean Oxe; the Duke is obliged to take the lean and return the fat one, and afterwards to receive a gentle box on the eare from the Country-man, and fo after this manner is inftailed. The Church of Saal is very ancient , and hathefcaped the fury of the Barbarous Nations ; herein I favv the Tomb of Modejim a Companion of S. V ?it , it is a plain Monu- ment, and they have a Tradition here , that the Tomb hath removed it felf about a yard nearer unto the Altar then where it was firft placed On the Church Walls are many old Rowan Antiquities of good Baffo relievo , which were foft taken out of Zolfeldt ; thofe which I chiefly obferved were tliefe.. ji Chariot with two Horfes. A Chariot and a man in it. A Wolf licking of fruit fallen fjom a Tree. Hector fajlned unto the Chariot of Achilles as he was drawn about Troy. Four fair Heads unto the middle . Two Wolves , each holding a Horn and a Cup between them , cut of which fhooteth a Vine with Leaves and Grapes , this is over the Porch. Within the Porch is a Cupid holding of a bunch of Grapes. Romulus and Remus fucking of a Wolf. Two Figures over the Crucifix by S. Chrijlopher , with fome others, all which Zioldfeldt afforded; where I alfo fa w many Infer ipt ions, one upon a Stone on the South-fideof the Church , was this, HERCVLI- HE/ E PONAE* AVG- PRO SALVTE'IMP* CAES 8 M* AVR 8 ANTONIN I. PIr FE LICIS 8 INVICTT alfo C 123 ) Alfo divers Roman Coyns of Copper and Silver found in thefe parts , and I brought away a Medal of Trajans in Gold. From thence we came to Clagcnfurt or Claudia of old, which is at prefent the chief Town in Carinthix , a fair four fquareTown enclofed with an handfom Wall ; the Rampart is very broad , at each corner there is a Baft ion* and one in the middle of each Curtain \ the Streets are ftraight and uniform as well as the Works , there is alfo a very fair Piazza in the middle. For the beauty of this place they are beholden to the Induftrious Lutherans while they held this Country: The Piazza is adorned with a Column of Marble, and a Statue of the Virgin up- pan it, aXo with a Statue of the Emperour , but above all with a noble Fountain in the middle, over which is a large prodigious Dragon made out of one Stone ? Hercules with a Clubftanding before it , which the people think to be the Statue of a Baur which killed this Dragon in thefe parts. This was alfo brought from the above-mentioned Field of Saah There are three noble Mafly Fountains ob- fervable in thefe hilly parts, thefe two of St. Veit and CU - genfurt , and another of white Marble at Saltzburg. Among the oddcuftoms of Carinthia there, is an old one delivered of this place, that if a man were vehemently fufpefted of theft, they hanged him, %i^ as and three days after judged of thefaft ; if he were found guilty they let his body hang till it be cor- rupted, if otherwife , they took down the body , buried it upon the publick account , and faid prayers for his foul. CUgenfurt was then full of Souldiers , where I had the honour to fee Count Lejley the chief Commander , Ba- ron U Hay, and my Lord Peajly who had a Company in the Town , whofe (ingular civilities and favours I cannot fuf- ficiently acknowledge , they obliged me to be at their Ta- ft 2 ble ( 124 ) ble while I flayed , and one day my Lord Lejley carried me in his Barge through a handfom ftreight cut into the Werd-Sea or Lake of Clagenfurte to aHoufe of pleafure called Loretto , finely feated , and which hath a Chapel in it built after the fame manner with that of Loretto in Italy y which having formerly feen , I was the better able to con- firm the exaft imitation of it. Count Lejley is related to JylontecuQuli , and fo was pleafed to give me Letters to Vien- na , and to other pares : The honour I had to know the right honourable the Earl of Norwich , Earl Marfhallef England , did much encreafe my kind reception among them, whofe worthy name I found not onely known in the Dominions of the Empire, but afterwards alfo in Turfy. Leaving Clagenfurte , I continued my journey South- ward , and after a German mile and half croffed the River Dravus where I found it already a large fwift River, paf- fing over two long Bridges of wood , and an Ifland in the middle ; and after an hour or two I began to enter between the Hills at a place called the Hammer , where the Iron is beaten out , and proceeded in order to my paffage over Mount LuibeL In a fhort time ent ring into as odd a De- fert of Rocks as may be feen , where there is a great Cafia- U or fall of waters , and the water hath fo worn the Rocks that all feems to be artificial : the way up is made with Walls, turning backward and forward with great pains, and greater art then I could have expe&ed in this Coun- try, fo we went on winding backward and forward till we reached the higheft paffage of the great Mountain Lut- heU which is a part of the Carnick , dividing Carin- thia and CarnioU , and one of themoft remarkable Hills I ever faw ; for having paffed up as high as the fteep Rocks and Peaks would permit we turnedfidewife by a made way which led us into a hole or palfage cut quite through the Mountain, imitating the famed Gretto of the Hill jP &nfilipo y C 125 ) by Nafles : there is a Roof of Wood-work in the middle, which is continued unto the Carmolim fide; the Roof of this pafiage is high , the length of it is 156. yards , and it is four yards broad* The manner of pafiing through this Hill was furprizing unto me , having never read nor heard hereof before > I thought it might be fotne work of the old Romms ? but I was afterwards infonned that it was much later , and that in former time there was no pafiage into Carniola this way, but they went about by Vfflacb. At firft fight of this hole when I was far below it, I conje&ured it might be the habitation or Chapel of fome Hermit , but could not ima~ gin how he fhould come unto it , till at laft by the winding and turning of the way up the Hill , I did not onely pafs through it my felf, but met with divers Pafiengers who came out of Carniola , and it is fo well contrived , that the Country carriages and Carts pafs through it every day. jfic In afcending this Hill we had bad weather , rain and fierce hail , and the fhow layed ftill by the way-fide ; and being fo high at the time of a ftorm , I had an oppor- tunity to fee the Clouds defccnd , and after it Was paft to afcend again fo high , as to get over part of the Mountain, and a ftream of them pafied through the hole out of Car- mold, into Carinthia , oppofitely unto us who pafied out of r Carinthia into Carniola , or out of Karnten into Cra.cn. This noble pafiage being already fo w r ell contrived, and in the Country of a laborious and induftrious people , is like to be continued , who remove the fnow with great pains in the Winter ,and keep the way paflable, as we con- rinually afcended till we came to this Grotto , lb when we were once got through it we alwayes defcended, and came iirft to S* jtnna , two Englijh miles downward then to JSFew- fiattd a German mile and half further ftill defending r and fo ( 126 ) proceeded till we came to Crainburg , which is thought to have been formerly Garnodumm , a good Town feaced upon the River Savus y from whence through a fair Plain four German miles long, we came to Labacbov Lubianx the chief City of Carnioh ; the River Labach runneth through it, which falleth afterwards into the Savus It is an bandfom City with a Caftle feated upon an Hill which over-looketh two large Valleys to the North and South , and hath a fair Propped of many Hills and Caftles , but being commanded by another Hill not far from it, it is negleded, although we find that it hath endured a ftrong Siege , for while the Em- perour Frederick was receiving the Crown at Aken , his Brother jilbertus and Count U brick took the advantage to befiege it , but it made fo good refinance that the Empe- rour had time to raife the Siege and deftroy the Army. At Labach I happily met with Mr. Fofh a Scotch Apothecary in that Town , who was very civil unto me , informing me of the places about , and Shewing me many Curiofities , and the feverai Minerals of thoPe parts. This place is conceived to be old Naufortus famous for the landing of th z Argonaut es , whofetting forth from Argos Felafgicum in Theffaly fayled unto Colchos on the Eaft-fide of the EuxzneSea, but being purfued by the King of Colchos his VefTels difpatched after them , they de- clined returning by the Hellefpont , but bearing North- ward entred the mouth of IJler or Danubius , and palled up the River till they came to the concurrence of the Danu- bins and the Savus , and taking up the Savus they came to the River Labach? and went up that River landing about' this place anciently called Naufortus y and then travelled to the Jdriatick Sea and returned unto Greece . So that in my travels I had been near their fett ing out in Thejfaly, and at the place of their landing in Gambia. From hence we travelled towards the Zirchnttzer-See, or ( T ?7 ) or famous -ft range Lake ofZirchnitz having the Marfhes on our left hand, and the Hills on our right, till we came to Brounitza, and then pafllng over them we came toZirch - nitz,, a Town of about three hundred Houfes, which giveth the name unto the Lake , here I applyed my ftlf unto In- dreasWiferXhe Richter or Judge of the Town who affor- ded me di red ions and accommodations for the viewing of the Lake ; and went down to Seedorff, a Village half a mile nearer the Lake, and then to KiderdorjJ\ where I took Boat andfpent fame time upon the Lake. This Lake is about two German miles long , and one broad, encompaffedw’ith Hills at fome diftance,and upon theSouth-fide lyetha Foreftpart of Eir?tbaumer Foreft, which extendeth a great way , wherein are many Dear, wild Boars, Foxes, Wolves and Bears. Every year in fame part of the Month of June , the; water of this Lake defeendeth under-ground through many great holes at the bottoms ; and in. the Month of September returneth again by the fame holes ; and with a fpeedy afeent , fpringing and mounting up to the heighth of a Pike , and foon covering that trad of ground again. When the water is under-ground, the. Earth makes a fpee- dy produdion of Grafs yielding food for Cattel in the Winter, and at the fame time, Hares, Deer and Boars refort to this place out of the Country, and the fore-mentioned Forreft, and are often, taken by the people. The Lake. affordeth plenty of Fiflr, but they fifh but by permiffion, for the Prince of Eckgnberg is Lord there- of, and a good part of the Country about, but up- on the going away of the water , all have liberty to take Fifh, which they do by Banding in the water by the holes, and fo intercepting their paffage take great plenty cf them , which otherwife would follow the water under- ground, and not return again until 1 September. I could not hear C 128 ) hear that any unknown Fifties were brought up by the wa- ter , but thofe which come up are of the fame kind with thofe which went down, which are a kind of Carp, Tench, Eeels, and fuch as are common in other Lakes; and they are rather gainers then loofers hereby, when they came up, for the Fifh having fpawned before, the frye thatgoech down hath had about three months growth under-ground when they are brought up again. The Ground under the Lake is very unequal , and the water not near of the fame depth , but in forae places four foot , and then fuddenly again twenty yards deep : and becaufe the Fifti frequent the Valleys or deeper places, more then the Hills or eminent parts , the Fifhermen who know the place wet and dry , have given unto feven of thefe Vallyes peculiar names , which in the Sclavonic the Language of that Country are thefe, fhdanas. Rejhetu . Sitarza . Rihijhkiam*' Naknifhtt* Levijhe . KotteL I pafled over the five firft mentioned Vallyes , and went to a noted Stone called the Fifhers Stone , by the appear- ance whereof they can conje&ure how foon the water will defcend ; and by an Hill , which when the water is high becometh a pleafant Ifland, and then returned. They can give no account that this Lake hath fayled any year to defcend and arife again , or have any tradition how long this property of the Lake hath been obferved. Some Lakes have been made by Earth-quakes, but it is more * probable ( *29 ) probable that this hath been from all Antiquity , and ac- cording to the beft conje&ures , this is the Luge a Ealus of Strabo , and therefore more ftrange that the Ancients are filent in this remarkable account. The neared Sea unto this Lake is the Shut tergepms, and Sims FUnaticus , the Gulf of Triejle , and the Gulf of £ Quevero . And not many miles from hence are the Heads of divers confiderable Rivers, as that of Laback , the Cor- coras or Gurk , the Colapis or Culp, which run into the Sa- vus. The Vipao or amnis frigidus which runs into Lyfinfi by Goritia , and divers more , but whither thefe R ivers af ife where the Lake falleth, I could not learn. The Ground not far from this Lake is very hollow and full of Caverns , and I obferved many Caverns and deep holes in other parts of Carniola fomewhat like untoJE/- den hole in D ar by fh ire , and I was informed by the moft confiderable perfons at Zirchnitz ithat the Prince of Eckenberg had the curiofity to go into one of them , and came out again upon the fide of an Hill. I was upon confideration whether I fhould go from hence unto tergejlum now 'triejle a Port-Town of the Em- perours in the Jdriatick-Sea , and then by Ship to Venice, but having been in many Mines before I had a defire alfc to fee the famous Quick-filver Mine at ldria in the Coun- ty of Goritia ; and parting from Zirchnitz I patted by Loveccp, and travelled over Mountainous parts till I came to ldria, which is encompatted with Hills on all fides , and a River of the fame name runs by it, which although Leandro terms Juperbiffbno flume d ldria , yet I found it fmajl and fliallow at the time when I was there , upon plen- tiful rains howfoever it proves fufficient to convey down the Firre-trees, and other wood required in the building of the Mines, and alfo for fuel necettary in the fer- vice of them ; and to this end there is an handfom work of S v Piles C 13° ) Tiles made floaping athwart the River, (after the fame manner as I obferved at JVervfol in upper Hungary crofs the River Gran) to ftop the Trees which are cut down and caft in o the River above this place. What is chiefly coniiderable in this Town are the Quick-filver Mines, very well known to the neighbour- ing parts , and exceeding ufefull to many at greater di- ftance. The entrance into thefe Mines is not high or upon an Hill, but in the Town it felf, whereby they are fomewhat the more troubled with water, againft which they are pro- vided with many excellent Engines and Devices , as at o- ther deep Mines ; the deepeft part of the Mine from the entrance is between one hundred and twenty , and one hundred and thirty fathoms. Of the Quick-filver of this Mine they have two forts, the one caked Jungfravt , that is virgin Quick-filver , the other plain Quick-filver, virgin Mercury they call that which difcovers it felf without the help of fire , and is ei- ther plainly to be feen in the Earth or Ore , or falls down in little drops in the Mine , and fometimes ftreams out in good quantity ; as about feven years ago it ran out of the Earth at firft in a ft ream as fmall as a thred, and afterwards as big as a Pack-thred,but ceas’d in three or four days. That alfo is accounted virgin Quick-filver, which ha- ving no need to pafs the fire, is feparated by water firft in aSive, and afterwards in a long Trough , having very fmall holes at one end , fo that there is in a manner two forts of Virgin Mercury ; the one running out and difcovering it felf without labour , the other requiring foine way of ex- traftion and feparation , though not fo high an one as by fire. Plain Quick-filver they name that which is not at firft per- ceived by the eye, or falls from the Ore , but is forced out bv C 131 ) by fife, and this they obtain out of the Ore , or out of the natural Cinnaber of Mercury which they dig out of this Mine. The Ore is of a dark colour mixed with red, but thebefl: is a hard Stone which they commit not prefendy to the fire , but ponder it grofly and work it by the five, that fo if any Virgin Quick-fiiver be found in it , it may be feparated in this manner , and what doth not pafs the five , maybe feparated by fire in Iron Furnaces, fifty of them in a fire. The Quick-filver-Ore of this Mine is the richeft of all Ores I have yetfeen, for ordinarily it contains in it half Quick-fiiver , and in two parts of Ore one part of Quick- fiiver, andfometimes in three parts of Ore, two parts of Quick-fiiver. I went into the Mine by the Pit of St. Agatha, and came up again by that of St. Barbara , defcending andafcen- ding by Ladders ; I afcendcd at one of fix hundred and thirty nine ftaves , or eighty nine fathoms. Siferus in Kir- chers Mundus fubterraneus makes fuch a dreadful defcrip- tion of this Mine , that it might difcourage any from at- tempting the defcent ^ which makes me doubt , whether he had been in any other Mine , efpecially where the deferent is made by Ladders. In a Laboratory where the Quick-fiiver is feparated by fire , 1 faw an heap of fixteen thoufand retorts of Iron , every one of which cofts a Crown at the beft hand from the Iron Furnaces in Carinthia $ herein are alfo at one time eight hundred retorts , and as many recipients employed together in drawing over the Quick-fiiver in fixteen Fur- naces, fifty in each Furnace , twenty five of a fide , twelve above, and thirteen below of each fide. June 12. 1669. When I was there they carried out forty faumes of Quick-fiiver into forrain parts ,each faum^ containing three hundred and fifteen pound weight to the S 2 value f 132 ) value of four thoufand Ducatsof Gold, though the con- veyance be not eafie , for it is carryed upon Horfes backs, two fmall Barrels upon each Horfe , yet fome is fent^as far as Chremnitz in Hungary for the life of the Gold Mine, and fome into Sweden , and other remote parts. In the Caftle I faw three thoufand faumes of Quick- iilver together in Barrels ; the Quick-filver being firft made up in double Leather , and in another Houfeas much rich Ore as can be d iftilled in two years , except they have great plenty of rain to bring down the wood , but the Hills being high about them , it fnows at the tops of them oftner then it rains. Thofe Strangers who come into the Caftle of ldria, have their names fet down in a Regifter-Book , with the Coun- try of which they are Natives , and the Catalogue is large, but of Englijl) men there are few ; of late years onely Mr. Evelyn and Dr. Pope , with their Company, of whofe ob- fervations there is an handfom account in the Philofophi- cal Tranfaftions fome timefince. This place is the more grateful to Strangers in refpeft that it being a Frontier Town , and bordering upon divers Nations , many Lan- guages are underftood here , and I obferved that there were five fpoken freely by the Officers and better fort of People , befides French which was not excluded from this place, though not fo efteemed or defired. viz. Friulian , Sclav oni an j German , Latin and Italian. Leaving Idria I paffed over Swartzenberg or the black Mountain , and descended about ten miles through aftony Country farrworfe then theCVwor ftony Plain in Pro* vence r and came to Jdojbini , and then to Goritia or Noreja of old, the chiefeft place of the Country of Goritia , well feated and over-looking a fair Plain to the South-Weft. The Emperours Governour of this Country Iiveth in the Caftle, and hath had of late a Guard granted unto him, ha- ving ( 133 ) ving been fet upon by a Gentleman of the Country , who for that faft was banifhed, and his Houfe rafed. Travelling in the night, we had fometimes about us a great number of large Glow-worms , which put into pa- pers gave a dim light ; and in fome places in the Plains the Air was full of flaming flies affording fome delight to us. The Car niolians fpeak a Dial eft of the Sclavonian , but in thefe parts they have a Language called Lingua Fullam , or Friulana ; he that fpeakech Italian may under (land much thereof. The Lords Prayer in that Language begin- neth thus, Fan Neftri elf ees in Cijl fee Santifcaat tuto nom , That neat kind of Acer whereof Violins and Mufical Inftruments are made , profpers well in thefe parts , as alfo in. Carniola and Saltzburglandt, where they make Trenchers and Tables of it , and at an eafie rate ; I brought fome of the fair broad Leaves from thence. Leaving Goritia I paffed the River Sontius or Lifonzo which arifing in the Hills above runs into the Jdriatick Sea. Near this River, Odoacer w r ho bad made himfelf King of Italy , was fiainin a Battel by Theodorick King of the Goths . Afterwards travelling on through Medows, I came unto the ftrong and well fortified City of Falma Nova. All this long Circuit untill we came within a mile of Falma Nova we were in the Emperours Dominions , which are much larger then commonly apprehended , and having fooner or later feen thegreateft part thereof, I cannot but be of that opinion , for he pofTefleth all ^/ujlria , Styria^ Carinthia , Carniola , part of Croatia , Iftria, and Friuli, part of Jlfatia , the large County of Tirolis , the large Country of Bohemia , ^Moravia , Silejia , and fome part of Lufatia 9 and a confiderable part of Hungaria ; from Fresbourg to tockay and Zathmar , above two hundred and fifty mi lev and C 134 ) and the Inhabitantscf thefe Countrys being an hardy flout and valiant, People,! cannot bi t think him a great and pow- erful Prince, and an happy Bulwark of Chriftendom againft: the Turks. Talma Nova in Friuli is the larged regular Fortification I have obferved , it hath nine Baftions, bearing the names of feme noble Venetians , which have little to be accepted againft but their round ears, on each Curtain there are two Cavalliers , the Rampart is much higher then the Wall, the Ditch is thirty paces broad , and twelve deep.; it is kept dry to render the Town inorehealthfull , but may be filled with waterupon occafion, as that of Vienna, much where- of is kept dry lead it fhould injure their deep Sellers; there are three Gates, Porta Mar itima, Porta de Civida/^ud Potudi Udine. They were then making one fair Half- Moon before each Gate : In the Center of the City is fixed a Standard over a Triple Well, in the middle of a Sexangu- lar Piazza, f rom whence a man may fee the three Gates and fix Streets quite through the Town. The Piazza is beau- tified with the Front of the Domo Church, divers Statues , and an Obelisk muchguilded. In the middle of the Bridge there is a Draw-bridge made with fuch Artifice, that the Centinel difcovering any force approaching , may by onely touching a certain Iron with his foot draw up the Bridge ; many handfom contrivances for Draw-bridges I had feen in other parts, fcmetimes ma- ny upon one Bridge, and not onely one after or behind another., but alfofometimes two or three on a breft , the outermoft ones ferving for the retreat of the foot , that in the middle for the Horfe and Carriages. Some Draw- bridges are not to lift up,but to be drawn on one fide, and foby onely turning of it like to the opening of a Gate Fafiengers are conveyed over the Meat and landed ; but thofe which pleated me moft were the Draw-bridges at Amjlerdam , ( * 3:5 ) Jmfterdam , which part in the middle , and a Vefiel though under fayl may pafife them, without the help of any one on flioar, for the Waft, head, or break-water of the Ship, bear- ing againft the Bridge in the middle, openeth it. At Palma Nova the Venetians have made a cut from the Sea to the Town capable of good VefTels , and broad and deep enough to bring pro vifions and fuppliesuponocca- fion tothisplace. This isatprefentefteemed one of the nobleft Fortifica- tions in Europe, begun by the Venetians 1594. and is a no- table Bullwark of their State and Italy , for this way the Huns and barbarous Nations pafied into Italy y and this way the lurks have formerly made in-roads almoft as far as Trevifo. Having feen many of the chief Fortifications in Europe? I had the greater defire to take a view of this , becaufe it carrieth fo great a fame, and is faid to have been contrived by Military advice from all parts , and as alfo becaufe the Venetians would have it believed to be the nobleft Fortifi- cation, not onely in Europe , but in the world ; I heartily wifh they may never know a complete Turkijh Army before it, efpecially when ever they are in no good condition to relieve it. If theEmperour through whofe Countrys the Turks. mull pafs to come to this place , and the Republick hold firm, it will be hard for the T ur\ to come unto it, and if the Turk fhould be at fuch a peace with the Venetians as may bind up their Fleet fromaflifting the other parts of Italy , he fhall not need to attempt it or make his way into • Italy by that place , for whether the Naval Forces of Italy without the affiftance of the Venetians be able to refift a completeT nrktfh Fleet , fo as to hinder landing and falling upon that Country fome other way , is much to be doubts cd« From Palma Neva . I went to Mar an St. Vito , a Port: Town ( n* ) Town of the Venetians in Friuli, fo named from St. Vito , who is faid to have been buried in this place. At this Town we took a Felluca , and fayling by the fhoar of Friuli or P atria , we paffed by Porto di Fajamento , and came to Cahorle. In this Ifland there is a Church dedi cated to the Bleffed Virgin featedupon the Sea-fhoar nigh the Waves, yet faid never to be overflowed by the Sea * being as it were the Halcyon Neaft of its Patronefs , and a place of remarkable devotion. On this flioar we refreshed our fel ves and were divertifed at Sea in feeing them take Shell- ftfli, and then palling by Livenza , where the Sea came for- merly up as high as Opitergium , and afterwards by Porn di Piave , I arrived at Venice entring by the Porto de Ca - Jlelli palflng by the Cartbujians Convent* and landed at the Piazza of St. Mark . Here I found the whole City highly concerned for the Hazardous State of Candia , which was loft foon after, Do- minico Cantarini the prefent Duke was fedulous in that af- fair. The Voyage of Ghiron Francifco Marchefe Villa , Ge- neral of the Infanterieof Candia , with a journal of a Siege had been lately published, and was in many hands. There was alfoa fupply of Auxiliaries in good readi- nefs;jt was at that time a more then ordinary hot Seafon, and fome of our Englijb Sea Captains and Mafters told me, that they had feldom met with fuch hot weather even be- ' tween the Pro-picks, Having formerly had a view of Rome, Naples,. Florence, and the great Cities of Italy , and palled fome time at Pa* doa a few years before, I made but a fhort ftay about Ve- nice , and having reviewed what was molt confiderable, and renewed my acquaintance with fome worthy courteous Friends at Venice and Padoa , Mr. Hales theConful* Mr. Hob fin , Dr. Cadined , and others. I difpofed my affair for my return to Vienna the ordinary way. in ( '37 ) In order thereto I took Boat at Venice and landed at Mefire a pretty Town, and the belt place for accommo- ; dation for fuch as travel into Germany by Tirol ^ or imo jiuftria by Friuli; from hence I travelled ten miles through | a pleafant plain Country till 1 came to Trevifo or Tarvi- j which giveth the name unto the Country about , La e i at" the Ship in S. Pauls Church-yard. E T ymologicon Lingua Anglic ana, feu-explicatio vocum An- glicarum Etymologica ex propriis font thus . Sell, ex Lin - guts i 2) Anglo-SaxonmfRmm, Franco-FheotifcafDanica- recent. BelgXeut on recent. Cambrc-Britun. Franco- Gal. ltd - itca,Hijpan> Latina, Graca. Omnia Alphabetico or dine in dijlincfas Claffes Digejia , Author e Stephano Skinner M.D. Folio. Be Prdfulibus Hibernia Comment art ia a Trim* Gentis Fit- be rmca ad fiAem ChriJHanam Converjicne ad nojlra ufque Lempora, per Jac. Waraeum Eqn, Aur> fol . R'P.R.Caron Remonftrantia Hiber riorum , contra Lovanien - fes Ultra montanafque Gen fur res. fol. Scapula Lexicon Gr*co*Latwum. fol. Originis in Sac r as Scriptures Comment aria qmcunfue Greece j reperiri fotueruntd 2 Vol. fol. Graco-Lat, Cafp.Bauhini Theatri Botanici Liber primus, fol Athan. Kircheri China Wujlrata . fol, Cotnpt. Carletoni Philofophia Univerfa. fol.: Arid Montani Biblia Interliniaria. fol. Calvini Lexicon Juridicum. fol. Thorndicius de Ratione ac Jure , Finiendi Controverjiad i Ecclejbt. fol. Bijhop Sanderfon’s Sermons, fol. Dr.P.HeylynV Commentary on the Creed, fol Jacob. IMerius de Primordiis Ecclejiarum Britamicarum, 4°* Horse Hebraicd & Talmudic* in Evangelium S.Johannis. Au- thor e Johan.Lightfoot. 4 0 . . Jhe Controverjial Letters, or the Grand Controverjic concern- ing the pretended Authority of Popes , and the true Sove- raign of Kings in their rejpetfive Kingdoms . 4 0 . Dr.Du Dr . Du Moulin’/ Vindication of the Frotefant Religion in pint of Obedience to Sovereigns* 4 0 . ji Sermon preacht at the Spittle , London, by the L . Bifbop of Downe^W Connor. 4 0 . 'jin Englifh Inquijition for a Heretick : a Vijitation Sermon by R.Neviile. 4 0 . Chriftoph.Merret M*D.Pinax rerum naturaltum. Britan. 8 *. Two Letters of Advice ; Lfor Sufception of Holy Orders . /A/Jr Studies theological especially fuch as are rat tonal ,voith a Ca- talogue infer ted of the Chrijlian Writers, and Genuine works that are extant of the jirfl 3 Centuries , by Henry Dodwell 8 °. A Letter of Advice to a young Gentleman leaving the Univer - Jity , concerning his Behaviour and Converfation in the World , FLLingard.Z).D. 1 2°. ^ Brief to the temple , or Country Parfon his Char alter and Rule of Holy life, by M.Geo.Herbert. 3 °. the Colloquies 0/ Era funis rendred into Englifh. 8°. the French Gardiner, lnjlr tilling hove to cultivate all forts of Fruit-trees and Herbs for the Garden ; together with dire- It ions to dry, and conserve them in their Natural, tranflated out of French by John Evelyn Efq\ where unto is annexed the Englifh Vineyard, vindicated by John Rofe ; illuf ra- ted with Sculptures. 8°. Of Gardens , four Books , firfi written in Latin Verfe by Re- natus Rapinus, and novo made Englifh by John Evelyn. 8°. Dens Nobifcum : a Narrative of a great Deliverance at Sea by W.Johnfon D.D.late Sub- Almoner to the King . 8°. Phccdri Aug.Cafaris Libert i Fabularum Efopiarum Libr.$.in ufum Scholar urn Anglia, ex-recenjione Chrifto.Wafe. 8°. the Englifh Rogue defcribed in the Life of Meriton Latrcon in four Parts 8°. Junii Juvenalis drPerJii Satyr a, in ufum SchoU Wejlmonajlcr* ERRATA. Ip Age 2. Line £.read Lauffnie^> Vinta. p.6» h*6. r. Trajan* p»i3.1.i.& 2 , dele(. )hetwixt Grounds and not. p. 14. L I l.r.Mtcktlberg.p. i$.l. I4*r. JPWf- Laxjnsm p, 27 » 1 .i 8 jt. Cromemm. p. 32.]. 19. r. this CajHe. p, 47. l.$« r* *0 the right . p.$2. 1. i^t.Mgaean. p.67,1. 4, r 9 Ragufi 3 p.1 1 1. p. 136*1.18. r. Contarinu