CONCRETE WORKER'S REFERENCE BOOKS 1 " Molding Concrete Flower Pots, Boxes, Jardinieres, Etc. By A. A. HOUGHTON Author of "Concrete from Sand Molds," "Ornamental Concrete Without Molds," Etc Being Number of this Series The Norman W. Henley Publishing Company 132 NASSAU STREET NEW YORK H 812. MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER POTS, BOXES, JARDINIERES, ETC. Houghton's Concrete Worker's Reference Books POPULAR 50c. HAND BOOKS Concrete Wall Forms .... 50c. Concrete Floors and Sidewalks 50c. Practical Silo Construction 50c. Molding Concrete Chimneys, Slate and 50c. Roof Tiles Molding and Curing Ornamental Concrete 50c. Concrete Monuments, Mausoleums and Burial Vaults 50c. Molding Concrete Bath Tubs, Aquariums and Natatoriums .... 50c. Artistic Concrete Bridges 50c. Constructing Concrete Porches 50c. Molding Concrete Flower Pots, Boxes, Jardinieres, Etc. .... 50c. Molding Concrete Fountains and Lawn Ornaments ..... 50c. Concrete for the Farm and Shop 50c. Houghton's Other Practical Concrete Books Concrete from Sand Molds . #2.00 Ornamental Concrete Without Molds . 2.00 A special circular of any of the books will be sent on request. Anu of these books sent prepaid on receipt of th e price. The Norman W. Henley Publishing Co. 132 NASSAU STREET. NEW YORK ivioiQing Loncreie r lower Pots, Boxes Jardinieres, Etc* A PRACTICAL TREATISE EXPLANATORY OF THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE MOLDS FOR AND THE CONSTRUCTION OF VARIOUS DESIGNS OF CONCRETE FLOWER POTS, JARDINIERES AND WINDOW BOXES OF CON- CRETE, TOGETHER WITH THE REINFORCEMENT AND SURFACE TREATMENT OF THE CASTS AFTER MOLDING. By A. A. HOUG HTON Author of "Concrete from Sand Molds," "Ornamental Concrete Without Molds," Etc., Etc. ^^^^^^^^^^^^ FULLY ILLUSTRATED NFW YORK THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 132 NASSAU STREET 1912 Coa/S }f68 Copyrighted, 1912 BY The Norman W. Henley Publishing Co. Electrotyping and Printing by Publishers Printing Co., New York FOREWORD It is the purpose of the writer to present in this series of books a complete explanation of various successful methods of concrete construction that may be employed by the beginner as well as by the more experienced worker. I shall endeavor to give the details of molds and ideas that are not covered by patents, such as may be easily and cheaply con- structed; hence the reader is not compelled to pur- chase expensive patented molds before putting into practise the many successful types of concrete con- struction I have exhaustively described in this series. There is no practical value to the reader in explain- ing a patented system of construction, other than a few words on its merits, as the owners of same are always pleased to give this information; hence in going outside the beaten track of concrete authors and presenting ideas, systems, and molds that are practical, successful in operation, and, above all, easily and simply constructed, I trust that I have merited the sincere gratitude of all fellow workers in the concrete field who seek such information. Yours very truly, A. A. Houghton. PREFACE It is the purpose of the writer to present in this volume details of molding such concrete articles as would be used for holding plants and flowers in the house or upon the porch; large urns and similar concrete casts will be fully treated in the volume devoted to lawn ornaments and garden furniture. The strength of the work can only be secured by the care given to the preparation of the concrete; af- ter a full explanation of the proportioning, mixing, placing and tamping or "puddling" of the concrete the reader can be assured that he will at least start right, and thus increase his chances of successfully molding the work contemplated. Another important point is the proper construc- tion of the molds, so to insure that they will have the right draught, or construction, to permit them to part from the cast with the least possible friction or adherence between mold and concrete. The construction of wood and sheet-metal molds, plaster and composition molds, glue, sand, gelatine, and wax molds is also fully treated with detailed instructions for building successfully. 9 10 PREFACE The construction of the cores, as to permit them to be released without danger of breaking the cast, is explained, as well as the proper method of reen- forcing to prevent breakage in the casts, a fault so often met with in molding this class of concrete work. The writer has only explained the methods he has successfully employed in actual practice and thus can assure the reader that he will find them of value. The molding of various designs of flower-pots, jardinieres, and other concrete casts employed for this purpose, are fully treated, together with the various methods employed to ornament same. The cardboard system of modeling bas-relief figures and ornaments, as well as the method of inlaying the work with colored tiles, pebbles, etc., is explained. Cutting ornaments into the work after molding, as well as polishing the cast, is explained in detail, which facts the writer trusts will meet with the ap- proval of the concrete worker. A. A. HOUGHTON. May, 1912. CONTENTS PAGE Proportioning and Mixing the Concrete for the Work 13 Construction of the Molds 18 Construction of the Cores 22 Plaster and Composition Molds 24 Wood and Sheet-metal Molds 29 Glue, Sand, and Wax Molds 34 Reenforcing the Work 40 Removing the Work from the Mold . . . .42 Flower-pot Molds 42 Flower Boxes of Concrete 44 Cardboard Models for Ornamental Work . . .45 Inlaid Ornamentation 47 Cutting Ornamental Designs upon Work . . .48 Finishing the Surface of Your Work . . . .49 11 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, BOXES, JARDINIERES, ETC. Concrete is an ideal material for ornamental casts, as its slow-setting properties enable the worker to place it more carefully and exactly than may be done with plaster or any material with which the initial set takes place within a few mo- ments after mixing with the moisture. A smooth, dense, and even surface finish must depend upon the mixing of the concrete, the aggre- gates used, and also upon the careful and intelligent placing within the mold, to avoid "air-bubbles" or small holes in the surface of the cast. The first requisite is clean and well-proportioned sand or aggregate; this must run from fine to coarse particles, the largest of the coarse aggregate not more than 3/16 of one inch in diameter, and with enough of the fine grains mixed with same to fill the voids, thus securing as dense a mix as possible. Most sands will not have more than 50 per cent of voids and, as the exact percentage of voids can be easily determined by a simple test, the worker can easily make certain the quantity of finer material to add to secure the maximum density to the mix- ture. The test for voids is accomplished by filling 13 14 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. a cup with either the coarse aggregate or the combined aggregate; if you wish to determine the quantity of cement to use, the net weight of the aggregate is determined, which, to illustrate, we will state was 10 pounds. Water is now added to the cup filled with sand until the cup is level full; this is now weighed and the net weight secured, which, for the purpose of illustrating, we will call 13 pounds. The cup is cleaned and filled with water and the net weight of same secured, or 6 pounds. The combined weight of aggregate and water, or 13 pounds, less Percentage of voids Propoetion sand and cement as follows: in sand Cement Sand 19 to 20% 20 to 26% 26 to 34% 34 to 42% 1 1 1 1 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 the weight of the aggregate alone, leaves a difference of 3 pounds, or the voids in the aggregate. The voids in the aggregate, or 3 pounds, divided by the net weight of the water contained in the cup, or 6 pounds, gives a percentage of 50 per cent. This is taken as an illustration, as where 50 per cent of voids occur in your aggregate finer sand should be added to bring the percentage of voids down as much as possible. In determining the mixture to use, the above table may be used, when you have ascertained the percentage of voids in the aggregate. By determining the voids in your aggregate, you MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. 15 can then easily secure from the above table the proper mixture to employ of sand and cement, to secure a surface finish that is smooth and dense, as well as a cast that is far stronger, the latter being very essential in ornamental work, as many pro- jections from the face of design demand the maxi- mum strength of the concrete to prevent damage and breakage in handling the finished product. Where the sand contains from 5 per cent to 10 per cent of finely pulverized clay, it is not a detriment to the successful use of same; in fact for such casts as demand the molds to be removed as soon as work is placed, the clay in your sand is a valuable aid in insuring that the cast will " stand up" or hold to- gether. Where the sand is mixed with any loam or soil, other than clay, it must be washed, otherwise it would interfere with the proper bonding of the grains of sand together. The cement should be of a standard brand and be free from all lumps. Where there are any lumps in the cement, it should be screened to remove same, as in an ornamental cast the worker should not take chances of decreasing the strength of the work at any point, as would be the result if the cement con- tained lumps even small in size. Hydrated lime is of value in increasing the density of your mixture, as well as producing a far smoother surface finish. The proportion to use will vary from 25 to 50 per cent, and should take the place of an equal weight of cement; thus, for instance, if 25 per cent of hydrated lime is added to the mixture, one-fourth the weight of your cement is 16 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. replaced by lime, and as this is lighter in weight you are adding to your cementatory material, thus securing a greater sand-carrying capacity for the cementitious part of the mixture. This is of value where there is a large percentage of voids in the sand that you use. In all ornamental concrete work I have always followed the practice of using not less than 25 per cent of hydrated lime, as the cast is less liable to breakage when the molds are removed at once, and also the surface finish is far smoother and less liable to be pitted or filled with small holes. The mixing of the material should have careful attention, first spreading the aggregate out upon the mixing board as thinly and evenly as possible, then placing the cement upon the sand in an even coating over same. The combined material is then turned and mixed until a uniform color is obtained; if light or dark streaks show, the mixing must con- tinue until the mass is of a uniform color. The water is best added in a fine spray, as from a sprin- kler; to dash the water upon the mass from a pail will wash the cement from the grains of sand and so destroy all you have gained by careful mixing. After the moisture is added the mass must be turned until every portion of mixture has the same degree of moisture, if you would insure a cast of uniform density. Where the concrete is mixed semi-dry, as used for blocks and brick, the mold must be planned so that the strokes or pressure of the tamper will be down- ward upon the face or any projecting part of the cast, thus ramming or driving the concrete into all MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. 17 the lines of mold. If the construction of mold will not permit this, a wet mix should be employed, as the semi-dry mixture could not do otherwise than produce a faulty cast. In placing wet concrete the mold should be poured about one-quarter full, then with a stick that has all corners planed off, so there will be no sharp edges to injure a glue or plaster mold, stir or " puddle" the concrete, thus forcing it into all the lines of mold; the action of " puddling" the concrete forces the air, trapped by the pouring of the concrete, to the surface, as well as all surplus moisture, and thus secures a smoother and denser cast; after an interval of two to three minutes, another one-fourth of the concrete should be poured and thoroughly " pud- dled," and another batch poured, until the mold is filled. This process may be slow, but it insures a far better surface finish and greater density and strength to cast. By having several molds to fill each time, the worker can thus save time. The operation of completely filling a mold should not be more than 30 minutes; otherwise the concrete first placed will take its first or initial set, or harden- ing process, resulting in streaks or layers between the several pourings or batches of concrete that are placed. A rough or pitted surface may result from one of several causes : from surplus moisture in the concrete caused by a mix that is too wet; by air that is trapped during the pouring of the concrete, or by employing a mixture that is not properly propor- tioned; also by improper mixing, thus placing an 2 18 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. undue proportion of the coarse aggregate at one point without enough finer particles to properly fill the voids between the grains. CONSTRUCTION OF THE MOLDS In constructing any mold the worker must plan the division lines to insure that they will have ample draught or construction, so as to enable each section to draw from the cast without any possible danger of injuring same. To insure this result, the division points must be along such lines as will give the least friction or resistance when removing the mold from the cast, and at no point must any section of mold bind or pull upon a projection of the cast, as the least adherence between mold and concrete presents a danger of detaching a portion of the work, when drawing the mold. Each mold must part from the concrete surface absolutely without friction, or sticking, and the molds should be planned so that this is assured; otherwise it would be impossible to secure a perfect concrete cast. The correct method of making the vertical division lines for simple cylindrical molds is shown at (a) in Fig. 1; by making the mold in three equal sections, vertically, there is no possibility of failure in secur- ing a mold that should draw from the cast without injuring same. When a mold of this kind is divided in halves, it is always possible that the division line will not be in the centre, hence one section will cling or stick to the cast. This rule will apply to all simple circular molds, Fig. 1. — Division of Concrete Molds, Circular and Square. 20 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. as the usual projections can be so planned that their greatest length will come at a division point, or in such a position between division points that the mold will not stick to the work. Where the circular model is made up of wood moulding, beads or ornamental bands and half- hollow members, the mold should be divided into quarters, to insure that all faces of mold will have ample draught to part from the mold freely and without danger of injury. As illustrated in Fig. 1, at the point division line is placed a projection should be molded, or attached; thus this projection can have two holes drilled in same before the mold is cut apart along the division lines you have planned for it. Then when the mold has been divided, the placing of a bolt or pin through these holes insures that the mold will be placed together exactly as it was molded. The usual division line of a square mold is at the corner, as this insures more perfect results when the mold is a cast from a model composed of wood mouldings; this is more clearly illustrated by the drawing at (6), Fig. 1. This method of dividing the mold permits each section to be drawn in a direct line away from the face of the work, so that any under-cutting or projections upon the face of the cast will not cling to the mold. This is also of value when the mold is enclosed in a supporting frame, for assembling same, as the joints in the wood or iron supporting frame are at the same point as the outside joints of the plaster or composition mold. MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. 21 a h Fig. 2. — Method of Dividing Cores. 22 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWEK-POTS, ETC. CONSTRUCTION OF THE CORES The construction of a square core form is shown at (a), Fig. 2. As will be noted, the various parts are fitted together with diagonal joints, thus forming wedges to make up the centre of core. This permits the parts 1 and 2 to be drawn with ease, allowing parts 3 and 4 to be drawn toward the centre of core opening and thus released from the work. This method of dividing the core can be applied to many forms of cores, in addition to those made in the form shown in illustration. At (6) in Fig. 4 is shown a form of core, where the main body of core is larger in diameter than the neck of the opening, from which it must be removed. This core is easily removed by making the centre, or part 1, as shown at (6), a circular and tapering wedge; this is easily drawn from the work. The parts 2 and 3 are now shown at (c), in Fig. 2; as will be noted, they are divided so that the parts 1 and 2 can be drawn toward the centre of opening left by removing part 1, as shown at (b), and as these parts are no larger than neck or opening to vase, they can be easily removed, thus releasing parts 3 and 4. By not making any part of core larger than the neck of the urn, it is easily possible to use this, or any other form, and easily release same from the work. The cores may also be made from sand, tamped into a mold, packing same hard enough to stand up while the concrete is poured around same; also by using from 25 to 45 per cent of finely pulver- Fig. 3. — A Simple Method of Molding Sections of Plaster Molds. 24 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. ized clay with your sand for cores; the clay will act as a temporary cement or adhesive in holding the sand together, yet when the moisture dries out from the sand it will not prevent the sand core from being broken to remove from cast. Where ample draught is possible for core, sheet metal can be successfully employed for same; these can be made at a low cost by any tinner, and will be far better than a core of any other material, wherever possible to employ same. PLASTER AND COMPOSITION MOLDS Other than metal, plaster and plaster composi- tions are the most universally employed as the material for molds to produce ornamental casts, where but a few are required. If a large number of casts are demanded from a single mold, it is always best to have the mold made in metal, as' plaster and all similar mold material cannot be depended upon to make more than a few perfect casts without breaking, warping or becoming dam- aged by the placing of the concrete within same. Plaster of Paris makes a very smooth mold and is easily handled, but the mold, when the plaster alone is used, is very delicate and fragile, demanding care to secure even a few casts from same. However, if from 4 to 8 per cent of powdered marsh-mallow root is added to the plaster, it will secure for the concrete worker a composition that sets very slowly, and when hard is very tough and durable, retaining all the clear-cut lines of the 26 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. plaster of Paris mold, with several times the dur- ability and strength. The marsh-mallow root should be finely pulverized, and most thoroughly mixed with the plaster; this is best done by passing both powders through a sieve several times. The com- position is then mixed with water, as employed for ordinary plaster of Paris, and placed in the position desired for mold or model, according to its intended use. In using 4 per cent or four pounds of the powdered marsh-mallow root with each 100 pounds of plaster of Paris, the setting of the plaster is retarded for from 30 to 40 minutes, and may be worked into shape, or modeled during that time. The cast is very hard and quite durable. Where 8 per cent or eight pounds is mixed with each 100 pounds of the plaster, the hardening or set of the plaster is retarded for from 50 to 80 minutes and the resulting cast is a very hard and durable mold that can be sawed or carved at will and which can be polished down very smooth by friction. As the setting or hardening of the plaster of Paris is greatly retarded, the worker can shape the plaster as he may desire, thus securing a mold that will be far more perfect, as well as one of greater strength and durability. All unused composition must be stored in a dry, warm room, otherwise it will become lumpy if exposed to very little moisture. The mixing of glue with ordinary plaster of Paris also retards the hardening or set of the plaster, making a mold that is far more durable than the MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. 27 plaster of Paris when employed alone for the casting of mold. The glue is the best employed when dissolved in the water used to wet the plaster; by using the ground glue a size is quickly made, and thus the glue is thoroughly mixed with the powder. The ordinary wood-fibre wall plaster, as sold at all lumber yards and by other dealers, is another excellent material for concrete molds; this makes a cast that can be cut or sawed as the worker may desire, also can be worked down with chisel and sandpaper to a very smooth surface. This is ad- vantageous for the reason that it is very low in cost and the mold is strong and durable, permitting a number of casts to be made from same when properly reenforced; yet to perfect the mold de- mands some skill, as the wood-fibre plaster is very apt to ruin the mold by sticking to the model, unless care is taken to provide a perfect non-adhesive coating between model and the plaster for mold. The most perfect coating for this purpose is melted paraffine wax; this is applied hot, with a brush, over the surface of model; the wax hardens as it cools, forming a thin film of wax entirely over the surface of model; this wax film lifts with the plaster cast or mold and is easily removed by placing the section of mold in an oven and allowing the wax to melt and run out of mold section. Several good coats of shellac will also prevent the cast from adhering to the model; for this purpose the shellac must be rightly made, as the usual prepared shellac at paint stores will not do for this work any more than it will work upon patterns in an iron foundry. The 28 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. safest way is to purchase the gum shellac and dissolve or "cut" it with wood alcohol; denatured alcohol will not work as well; this process takes about 15 to 30 minutes to enable the alcohol to dis- solve all of the gum shellac that it will; the result is a composition far thicker, or with more body, than painters use. When this is spread upon the mold, pattern, or model, a hard durable coating results that is absolutely non-adhesive, as well as positively waterproof. The advantage of using a compound that can be applied with a brush is that every part of mold can be evenly coated, while with models or molds of irregular lines, to coat with a paste or grease would not result in an even coating, thus causing defects in the plaster cast taken over same. In casting plaster molds a thin mixture should be placed upon all parts of model, where the lines are such that a stiff mortar could not be forced into same. Where the model has a circular surface, it will be necessary to mix the plaster quite thick or " stiff" and plaster over the model, build- ing up the plaster wall upon the projecting parts of model. An easy method of molding quarter segments of any circular mold is shown in the illustration at Fig. 3; this is simply two boards nailed together, with a board at each end, so that the space between same is an exact quarter segment of the circle de- sired for mold; the model is placed inside the two boards and the plaster placed over model; thus the cast will have edges or joints that will be exact, or MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER -POTS, ETC. 29 a square mitre, when the four sections of mold are fitted together. This is of value where it is not desirable to make a complete model, and thus by making a quarter section of model, and casting mold in this manner, the completed mold will fit together as perfectly as if cast in one piece, if your wood form is accurately constructed. WOOD AND SHEET-METAL MOLDS There are a large number of various styles of molds that permit of wood construction, where but a few casts are demanded from each mold. With the several styles of wood moulding that are available at all lumber yards, a mold can be built up from the plain square-box form, by inserting strips of the wood moulding cut to fit inside the square-box form, and thus mold a large number of ornamental forms. The requisites of wood-mold construction are: lumber that is not apt to warp or check, — for this purpose whitewood is best, as when kiln-dried there is the least percentage of danger from the moisture in the concrete affecting the wood; the lumber should be straight-grained and of sufficient thickness to withstand the pressure of the concrete placed within mold, without bulging or springing from position. White pine is also an excellent lumber to use for this work, as it is usually straight-grained and does not have the tendency to curl or warp that some other woods have. 30 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. Another requisite of the wood mold is close-fitting joints; these are best made with a square mitre; thus if it is desirable to add wood mouldings inside the square-box form it can be more accurately fitted to make a perfect corner. The joints should never be nailed together, unless permanent, as the drawing of the nails would be liable to injure the concrete cast. By fastening with screws they can be taken apart without any jar or vibration to the cast. By nailing two strips to the two boards that meet at corner a small clamp can be used to hold the corners together, and by providing some method so that the joint or boards cannot slip, this makes it very easy to release same, without danger to the concrete cast. The wood mold should be well coated to prevent the moisture in the concrete from affecting the wood; this is done by covering the surface of mold with at least two good coats of shellac. Paint is not a success, as there is a tendency to peel caused by the moisture coming in contact with the paint. Do not make the mistake of using a wood mold without first covering the surface with some non-adhesive coating, as the minute particles of cement will penetrate the wood and thus cause the concrete to bond to same, causing pieces of the cast to break off when the mold is removed. If not desirable to use shellac, when but one or two casts are to be secured, then paint the surface of mold with coal oil or kerosene, giving it a liberal coat just before filling with concrete, before each cast; this will avoid trouble in adhering or sticking and if the surface of Fig. 5. — Molds for Concrete Flower-Pots. 32 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. wood is smooth the cast will have a very smooth and perfect surface finish. Many ornamental molds can be built using wood forms to secure the shape of the cast and then cover- ing them with tin, or any other sheet metal; this is illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6. The outline of the work to be cast is cut from a board, as shown for the circle at (6), Fig. 5; sheet metal is then cut and bent to fit inside the outline cut from the boards, to which it is nailed, thus making a mold that has a metal surface exposed to the concrete. The wood supporting form also serves to hold or "lock" the mold together, as a fastening can be more easily attached to the wood frame than to one of sheet metal. For all cylindrical molds enough semicircles must be cut from the boards to prevent the sheet metal from bending or being forced out of place from the weight of con- crete placed against same; thus for molds 12 inches or so in height a board at top and bottom will be sufficient, while for molds of greater height the wood semicircles should be placed about 12 inches or so apart, unless very heavy sheet metal is used. Another type of work that can be advantageously cast in a sheet-metal or wood mold is shown at Fig. 8; the legs or stand for the plant box are easily produced with such a mold. This simply requires that the outline of the outside of stand be cut from the boards, cutting two for each side, then line this with a strip of sheet metal of the required width and provide fasteners to hold the two sections apart. The core or section to mold the opening is then cut MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. 33 Fig. 6. — Octagonal and Other Designs of Flower-Pots. 3 34: MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. and the outside edge of same covered with the sheet metal, cutting the lower section slightly smaller than the top part of core, so as to give the form enough draught or taper, so it will draw from the concrete without injury to same. If you wish perfect casts, do not make the mistake of using grease or oil with a heavy body upon sheet- metal molds. Simply brush coal oil or kerosene over same before each cast, and the parting between cast and mold will be perfect and with a smooth even surface. GLUE, SAND, AND WAX MOLDS A glue mold is rather difficult to make and re- quires considerable care to have perfect. The model should be oiled and then coated with modeling clay to a thickness of at least \ inch; over this a plaster shell is modeled, when the plaster is hard; it is then removed and the modeling clay carefully scraped from the model, which is again oiled preparatory to molding the glue mold. The plaster shell is now "gated, "or provided with an opening at the top or above the highest projection to model, also with several small vents or outlets for the air to escape while the glue is being poured; these should be about f inch in size. The plaster shell is now placed over the model and fastened in position, so it cannot be moved by the action of pouring the glue cast. The glue used should be of good quality and is soaked in water for 20 to 30 minutes, then placed in MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. 35 1 Fig. 7. — Concrete Window-box or Jardiniere. 36 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. a small pail and this pail in turn set inside a larger pail partly rilled with water, and exposed to heat. As soon as the glue has melted to the consistency of thin molasses, place a funnel in the "gate" or opening at the top of plaster shell and pour in the glue; it will run from the small vent-holes in plaster shell as you proceed, thus showing that the glue is flowing properly; these can be stopped with a small piece of modeling clay as the glue is poured. The plaster shell is poured full, or until the glue runs out of the highest vent or fills the funnel. The glue mold must have at least 12 hours' time to harden, when the plaster shell may be lifted off and the glue mold cut into sections with a sharp knife, using care to have these lines of division sharp and perfect; with molds of slight relief or projection, the glue will not require these division lines, but where the projection is such as would make it difficult to lift the glue mold from the concrete cast, it should be so divided that it can be drawn easily. For casting in concrete, place the sections of glue mold inside the plaster shell, which should be made heavy enough to withstand the strain of the concrete poured into the mold; then with several coats of any flexible varnish or two or three coats of an alum solution, paint the surface of the glue mold, so as to make it as near waterproof as possible. Casts from glue molds should be made by pouring, mixing the concrete semi-liquid, and pouring from a pail, carefully "puddling" or stirring with a round cornered stick during the operation; as to tamp a semi-dry mixture into a glue mold would be Fig. 8. — Concrete Flower-box and Stand. 38 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. almost sure to damage same, resulting in an imper- fect cast. In constructing a sand mold for molding ornament- al concrete, a box form is built to hold the sand; this is several inches larger each way than the model or pattern; the pattern or model is placed upon a molding board or pallet and the box form placed around same; then, by mixing fine sand with from 25 to 50 per cent of finely pulverized clay and slightly dampening the mass, it is rammed or tamped into the box form over and around the model. As soon as the box is filled, a pallet or board is placed upon the top of same and the whole thing turned over; then the molding board or pallet is lifted off and the model or pattern drawn from the sand, leav- ing an imprint of same in the molding sand; this is filled with a concrete, which is left in the sand mold to set or harden until thoroughly cured. The wet sand acts as a blanket around the cast, prevent- ing it from drying out too quickly, and thus aids in perfectly curing the concrete. While this is a general outline of the method of molding ornamental objects with sand molds, yet other styles of models demand different treatment; all of which are fully explained and illustrated in my work entitled Concrete from Sand Molds, which more fully explains this important subject to the concrete worker than would be possible in this small volume. Gelatine and wax molds are of use to the concrete worker who desires a mold to produce great accuracy of line, with clear-cut, sharp details, and where the MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. 39 limited number of casts would not warrant the mak- ing of a metal mold. The best method of making a mold of either sheet gelatine or paraffine wax, is to use a plaster shell and proceed in the same manner as for a glue mold, previously explained; the gelatine mold is more expensive than glue, but makes a very good mold for many purposes. The paraffine-wax mold is useful where the indentations are such that it requires the wax to be melted and allowed to run from the cast; cores of this material can be molded separately and when surrounded with the concrete cast, the work can be subjected to just enough heat to melt the paraffine wax, allowing it to flow from the core opening; in this way almost any cast can be pro- duced, if the core opening can be made £ inch or more in size and the cast be such that it can be easily subjected to heat sufficient to melt the wax. As previously stated, all plaster, glue, wood, and similar molds are useful only as temporary molds, where but a few casts are required, or " waste molds" as they are termed by the concrete worker; if a large number of pieces are to be used it is far better to have the mold reproduced in metal, which can be done at your local iron foundry, from your pattern or plaster mold from model, requiring that you simply trim it down, to reduce the weight ; then coat with several coats of good shellac. 40 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. REENFORCING THE WORK The illustration at Fig. 4 fully explains the neces- sity of some reenforcement for such concrete casts as have a thin wall or body between heavy corners, as illustrated in the square jardiniere at Fig. 7. The weight of the heavy corners are certain to cause a break in the thin curtain wall between same, unless this is reenforced with woven wire or some similar form of metal. Also where a thin wall of concrete is placed between two heavier masses of mortar, the tendency is that the shrinkage or con- traction, caused by the drying or hardening of the concrete, will exert a pull or strain upon the thin wall, and unless this is fully reenforced to withstand this stress, a rupture is sure to occur. The panels of all concrete casts, where the thick- ness is 1 inch or less, should be reenforced, as shown at (£>), Fig. 4. The reenforcement of the corners of the cast are fully illustrated at (c), Fig. 4, the dotted lines showing the placing of the reenforcing material. As will be noted in all thin walls for square or oblong casts, the woven wire is placed nearly in the centre of the wall, unless the stress is such as to demand that it be placed at one side; while at the corner the reenforcing material is placed as near as possible to the outside surface of the corner, so as to permit it to be covered by the concrete and also to be firmly anchored in same. This is done for the reason that the initial rupture to all concrete work caused by expansion in all forms, is upon the outside of the work; thus where the reenforcing MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. 41 material is placed next to the inner surface the break in the concrete wall simply causes the metal to bend and does not exert the stress or pull upon same, as if it were placed at the point where the initial break must occur. In the construction of many classes of concrete work the writer has observed the truth of this principle, as circular tanks of concrete, subjected to the strain of freezing water, have successfully held when the reenforcing material was placed as near as possible to the outside circumference; while those in which the reenforcing material was embedded in the concrete as near as possible to the inner cir- cumference cracked under the same strain, and as theory is only the result of successful practice, the writer has adopted this system for all work where it can be successfully employed. The best material for reenforcing small concrete casts, is the No. 20 woven-wire cloth, as this can be the most readily cut and bent into the form desired. Metal lath can also be employed as reenforcing material, but is not as easily handled as the wire cloth. Where but a single ring or band is needed at one point of cast, a wire will do very nicely and as this can be easily cut and shaped for the work, it will meet with the approval of those who want as cheap a form of reenforcing material as possible. Where light wire is used, two strands twisted to- gether should be used; this bonds more securely with the concrete than if a single strand of heavy wire was employed. 42 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. REMOVING THE WORK FROM THE MOLD Where the casts are allowed to remain in the mold to set or harden, it will often result in the surface " scaling" or breaking off, unless care is employed to loosen the work from the mold before drawing away the mold. This is best done by lightly tapping or striking the outside of mold with a hammer; go over the surface of mold, striking light blows, as soon as the joints are partly unfastened; this will prevent pieces of the face of cast from breaking or clinging to mold, as often happens when the sections of mold are drawn away from the concrete by the time-honored method of using "main strength and awkwardness" to accomplish the work. FLOWER-POT MOLDS Four styles of flower-pot molds are shown in the illustrations at Figs. 5 and 6; that shown at (a), Fig. 5, is very easily constructed by cutting for each half of mold two boards, with a semicircle cut from each one; that intended for the bottom of mold should be smaller than the other, to correspond with the taper or slant desired for the pot. The inside of the semicircles should be lined with a tin or sheet metal strip that is the height desired for the com- pleted flower-pot. The two sections of mold are held together with hooks or clasps, while the mold is filled with concrete. The core is easily constructed of sheet metal, as for this work it only demands a cone or funnel-shaped MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. 43 form of metal, which is held in position by a rod through same and resting upon the top edge of the mold. This mold can be made more attractive by fluting same, as shown by the illustration at (6) ; the sections are so divided as to make the mold in quarters, and at equal distances apart along the inside surface half-round pieces are fastened to the inside surface of mold, thus imprinting their outline in the concrete of cast! This can also be applied to a panel form or or- namentation, attaching the mold for the indented panel to the inside surface of the sheet-metal molding surface and so imprinting the panel into the concrete. At (a), Fig. 6, is shown the outline of a mold for an octagonal flower-pot, constructed in the same manner; the sides of this mold are easily made of strips of sheet metal or light boards, cut to fit into the spaces between corners in the octagonal board used as an outline of the mold. This style of mold permits each one of the sides to be ornamented with a panel, or strips of wood moulding can be cut to fit around upon the inside of mold, as desired, the plain surface to the sides easily permitting the special ornamental faces to be attached to the molding surface. Another form of flower-pot or jardiniere is shown in the illustration at Fig. 6; this is an imitation of a log of wood, and is easily made by taking as the model a block of wood, of the right size, and cutting it into quarters, then by smoothing the bark upon outside surface, and cutting the lines or breaks in 44 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. same slightly deeper, so that they will show up plainly in the concrete cast; you have perfected an excellent model, which only requires several coats of shellac, before making a plaster mold from same. The model or quarter of log is placed in the form shown in Fig. 3, and the plaster placed over the face of same; in this manner making four sections for the complete mold. These should be well coated with shellac so that the concrete cannot adhere to the lines of mold, and with a sheet-metal cone or core to mold the inside of bowl, the mold is complete. FLOWER-BOXES OF CONCRETE The molds for a large number of ornamental flower-boxes or window-boxes of concrete can be designed and constructed by the concrete worker, as it is very easily and simply done. A very pleasing design, as well as a most simple one, is shown at Fig. 7. This requires a square- box form of a size to include the outside corners; in the centre between the corners the projection to mold, that produces the indented part of cast, is attached upon each side, thus with the square-box core form completing the mold for this jardiniere or window-box, as it may be classed. This style of mold permits of being constructed square, as illustrated for a jardiniere, or oblong, where it is desired for a window-box for flowers. The design also permits of a number of variations to suit the wishes of the worker. A panelled design for a window-box is shown in MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. 45 the illustration at Fig. 8; the mold for this is con- structed in a square-box form and with the boards to mold the panels upon four sides attached to the in- side surface of mold. The core is a square box, and should be constructed with enough draught or taper to permit it to be easily withdrawn from the concrete. The stand illustrated with this style of window-box is molded with sheet-metal strips, nailed over boards cut to conform to the desired outline of stand, as has been previously explained in this volume. By employing the methods explained in construct- ing these window-box molds, the worker can produce a large number of designs as well as attractive stands for same, as the illustrations will suggest other ornamental forms that he can easily make in practi- cally the same manner, and which will be fully as pleasing. The walls of window-boxes, where less than one inch in thickness, should be reenforced with woven wire, as previously explained. CARDBOARD MODELS FOR ORNAMENTAL WORK It is often desirable to produce a spray of flowers, leaves, or figures in relief upon the sides of urns, window-boxes, jardinieres, and flower-pots; these the worker may be unable to model in any plastic material, but by drawing or transferring from a printed picture or drawing upon straw-board the outline of the design, the model is easily secured. After the design is complete the straw-board is cut out, with a sharp knife, along the lines of the design; 46 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. this is glued to the fiat surface of molding board or side of model for the urn or window-box; if the pro- jection is not sufficient when using a single sheet of the straw-board, then cut additional sheets, exactly alike, and glue to the first one, building up in this manner until the desired projection is secured for the design. After the glue has hardened, go over the edge of the straw-board model with fine sandpaper, working down the edges so that they are slanting enough to give ample draught to the mold to be cast upon same. The straw-board model is now coated with two or three coats of good shellac, and when this has dried, a form is erected around same and the plaster placed for the mold. The projecting straw-board model will, when protected with shellac, withstand the moisture in the plaster for mold, thus producing a mold for any face plate that to model in any plastic material would require hours of labor as well as skill upon the part of the worker. It is best to start with some simple leaf, for the first mold, and by observing that the sides of the model have enough slant or draught to permit the mold to be drawn from same, no difficulty will be experienced. MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. 47 INLAID ORNAMENTATION A simple and yet beautiful form of ornamenting the surface of your concrete casts is secured by in- laying with colored tiles, cut to the form you wish. These can be arranged to make a mosaic pattern, or in any other form the worker may desire. One method of doing this work is to cut into the face of mold enough to permit the tile to set into same for about one-quarter of its thickness, where it is desired that the colored tile project slightly from the face of work. The concrete is placed in mold and back of the tile, thus securely bonding it to the main portion or body of the work. Another method is to remove the mold from the concrete while it is yet green enough to be easily carved; this is best within about 12 to 18 hours after molding; the outline of the colored tile is cut from the face of the cast and this space filled with a rich cement mortar to which about 25 per cent of hydrated lime has been added; the tile is pressed into this mortar and the cement allowed to thor- oughly harden before the work is moved. Pebbles and other small objects can be partly embedded into the face of the work by plastering the inside surface of mold with wet clay, to a thickness equal to one-half the diameter of the pebbles or other objects to be embedded into the face of concrete. The pebbles are then placed in position by pressing into this wet clay coating, leaving enough projecting so that the concrete placed against same can securely bond same to the surface. After the work is molded 48 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. and cured sufficiently, the clay is washed away with water, thus leaving the colored pebbles exposed and projecting from the face of the concrete. CUTTING ORNAMENTAL DESIGNS UPON WORK A number of ornamental designs may be carved into the face of the molded concrete by removing the molds after the work has been molded for 12 to 18 hours; the concrete is yet "green" or soft enough to permit it to be easily carved. The pattern or design should be drawn upon a sheet of heavy paper, to the exact size desired; this is laid upon the face of concrete, with a sheet of trans- fer paper underneath same. By tracing the lines of design a transfer of the pattern will be made upon the concrete, which is cut with a small chisel to the desired depth to bring out the design. Another method of securing simple outlines is to work the chisel along a ruler, in almost the same manner as one uses a ruling pen with the aid of a ruler to perfect a straight line, in drawing. In this manner the concrete can be cut in various designs, as by using curved guides or boards cut into the form you wish for ornament, the chisel will be accurately guided, and thus perfectly carve the lines of design into the concrete. MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. 49 FINISHING THE SURFACE OF YOUR WORK The simplest method is to apply a neat cement coat to the concrete cast after it has partly cured; this should be made of one part cement and one-half part hydrated lime with one part of fine sand or marble dust; this brush coat is made liquid, or about the consistency of thick cream, and applied to the surface of work with a brush. If white cement is used, the coating will dry out a pure snow white and thus greatly add to the beauty of your work, as well as completely filling the pores of the concrete and making a smooth surface finish. If the work is to be polished, the aggregate must be of such a character as to permit polishing by friction. If marble dust or crushed marble is em- ployed the cast can be made more attractive by rubbing the surface with a piece of felt dipped in a strong oxalic-acid solution; this brings out all the lustre and sparkling beauty of the marble aggregate. The process can be employed at any time after the work is molded, if the concrete is strong enough to withstand the friction or rubbing, without injury to the surface. After the work has become thoroughly cured, it may be polished by rubbing first with a coarse or No. 16 Carborundum stone, with the surface wet so that the rubbing or polishing will bring the surface to a lather. This is flushed off with water and polished to a smooth even surface with a fine Car- borundum stone, using a No. 30; this should be used 4 50 MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, ETC. while the surface is wet with water, to secure the best polishing results from the stone. If the surface is rough, it should be covered with a neat cement coat and this ground or polished so as to work it into the surface of the 3oncrete, completely filling all the pores and thus bringing the surface to a smooth even finish. By flushing the surface with water as the polishing proceeds, the progress of the work can be noted and all rough spots gone over again. INDEX Aggregate for ornamental con- crete, 13 Carborundum stones, use of in finishing surface, 49 Cardboard models for ornament- al designs, 45 Casting work in a glue mold, 36 Cement to use for ornamental concrete, 15 Circular molds, how divided, 18 Clay, how used for core-making, 22 Clay in aggregate, value of, 15 Coating models to prevent stick- ing, 27 Composition molds, 24 Concrete for ornamental work, 13 Construction of molds, 18 Cores, how constructed, 22 Cutting ornamental designs up- on casts, 48 Dividing molds to avoid stick- ing, 18 Finishing the surface of casts, 49 Flower-box molds, 44 Flower-pot molds, 31-33, 42 Gelatine molds, how made, 39 Glue mixed with plaster for molds, 26 Glue molds, how made, 34 Hydrated lime, value of, 15 Inlaid ornamentation for casts, 47 Jardiniere molds, 33-35, 43 Lime in concrete, value of, 15 Marsh-mallow root as used with plaster, 24 Mixing plaster for molds, 28 Mixing the concrete, 16 Mixture of sand and cement to use, 14 Molds for flower-pots, 42 Molds, how constructed to se- cure draught, 18 Molds of plaster composition, 24 Neat cement coating for surface finish, 49 Ornamenting flower-pot molds, 43 Paraffine wax used to prevent sticking, 27 Pattern for iron castings, 39 Plaster composition molds, 24 Plaster of Paris molds, 24 Polishing surface of casts, 49 Puddling a wet mixture to secure density, 17 Quarter segments of mold, how molded, 28 52 INDEX Table of proportions of sand and cement, 14 Tamping the concrete in orna- mental molds, 16 Testing for voids in aggregate, 14 Voids in sand, 13 Wax employed for cores, 39 Wax molds, how made, 39 Wet mixture, how placed, 17 Window-box molds, 35-37, 44 Wire cloth used for reenforce- ment, 41 Wood-fibre wall plaster for molds, 27 Wood molds, how constructed, 29 Wood moulding, how used in molds, 20 Reenforcing concrete casts, 40 Removing work from molds, 42 Rough surface finish, how avoid- ed, 17 Sand cores, how made, 22 Sand molds, how made, 38 Sheet-metal cores, 24 Sheet-metal molds, how con- structed, 32 Shellac used to prevent sticking, 27 Square molds, how divided, 20 Stand for flower-boxes, 37 Sticking of concrete to mold, how prevented, 30 Streaks in surface finish, how avoided, 17 Surface finish of casts, 49 CATALOGUE OF STANDARD PRACTICAL and SCIENTIFIC BOOKS PUBLISHED AND FOR SALE BY The Norman W.Henley Publishing Go. 132 Nassau St., New York,"U. S. A. INDEX OF SUBJECTS Brazing and Soldering 3 Cams 11 Charts 3 Chemistry 4 Civil Engineering 4 Coke 4 Compressed Air 4 Concrete 5 Dictionaries 5 Dies— Metal Work 6 Drawing— Sketching Paper 6 Electricity 7 Enameling 9 Factory Management, etc 9 Fuel 10 Gas Engines and Gas 10 Gearing and Cams 11 Hydraulics 11 Ice and Refrigeration 11 Inventions— Patents 12 Lathe Practice 12 Liquid Air 12 Locomotive Engineering 12 Machine Shop Practice 14 Manual Training 17 Marine Engineering 17 Metal Work-Dies 6 Mining 17 Miscellaneous 18 Patents and Inventions 12 Pattern Making 18 Perfumery , 18 Plumbing , 19 Receipt Book 24 Refrigeration and Ice 11 Rubber 19 Saws , 20 Screw Cutting 20 Sheet Metal Work 20 Soldering 3 Steam Engineering 20 Steam Heating and Ventilation 22 Steam Pipes 22 Steel 22 Watch Making 23 Wireless Telephones 23 Any of these books will be sent prepaid to any part of the world, on receipt of price. REMIT by Draft, Postal Money Order, Express Money Order or by Registered Mail. f i f GOOD, USEFUL BOOKS BRAZING AND SOLDERING BRAZING AND SOLDERING. By James F. Hobart. 1 he only book that shows you just how to handle any job of brazing or soldering that comes along; tells you what mixture to use, how to make a furnace if you need one. Full of kinks. 4th edition. 25 ce nts CHARTS BATTLESHIP CHART. An engraving which shows the details of a battleship as if the sides were of glass and you could see all the interior. The finest piece of work that has ever been done. So accurate that it is used at Annapolis for instruction purposes. Shows all details and gives correct name of every part. 28 x 42 inches — plate paper. 50 cents BOX CAR CHART. A chart showing the anatomv of a box car, having every part of the car numbered and its proper name given m a reference list. 20 cents GONDOLA CAR CHART. A chart showing the anatomy of a gondola car, having every part of the car numbered and its proper reference name given in a reference list. 20 cents PASSENGER CAR CHART. A chart showing the anatomy of a passenger car, having every part of the car numbered and its proper name given in a reference list. 20 cents TRACTIVE POWER CHART. A chart whereby you can find the tractive power or drawbar pull of any locomotive, without making a figure. Shows what cylinders are equal, how driving wheels and steam pressure affect the power. What sized engine you need to exert a given drawbar pull or anything you desire in this line. 50 cents WESTINGHOUSE AIR-BRAKE CHARTS. Chart I.— Shows (in colors) the most modern Westinghouse High Speed and Signal Equipment used on Passenger Engines, Passenger Engine Tenders, and Passenger Cars. Chart II.— Shows (in colors) the Standard Westinghouse Equipment for Freight and Switch Engines Freight and Switch Engine Tenders, and Freight Cars. Price for the set, 50 cents CHEMISTRY HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTTJKY BOOK OF RECEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES. Edited by Gardner D. Hiscox. The most valuable Techno-cbemical Receipt Book published, including over 10,000 selected scientific chemical, technological, and practical receipts and processes. See page 24 for full description of this book. $3.00 CIVIL ENGINEERING HENLEY'S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL EN- GINEERING AND ALLIED TRADES. Edited by Joseph G. Horner, A.M. I., M.E. This set of five volumes contains about 2,500 pages with thousands of illustrations, including dia- grammatic and sectional drawings with full explanatory details. It covers the entire practice of Civil and Mechanical Engineering. It tells you all you want to know about engineering and tells it so simply, so clearly, so concisely that one cannot help but understand. 86.00 per volume or 825.00 for complete set of five volumes. COKE COKE— MODERN COKING PRACTICE; INCLUDING THE ANALYSIS OF MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS. By T. H. Byrom, Fellow of the Institute of Chemistry, Fellow of The Chemical Society, etc., and J. E. Christopher, Member of the Society of Chemical Industry, etc. A handbook for those engaged in Coke manufacture and the recovery of By- products. Fully illustrated with folding plates. The subject of Coke Manufacture is of rapidly increasing in- terest and significance, embracing as it does the recovery of valuable by-products in which scientific control is of the first importance. It has been the aim of the authors, in preparing this book, to produce one which shall be of use and benefit to those who are associated with, or interested in, the modern de- velopments of the industry. Contents: Chap. I. Introductory. Chap. II. General Classi- fication of Fuels. Chap. III. Coal Washing. Chap. IV. The Sampling and Valuation of Coal, Coke, etc. Chap. V. The Calorific Power of Coal and Coke. Chap. VI. Coke Ovens. Chap. VII. Coke Ovens, continued. Chap. VIII. Coke Ovens, continued. Chap. IX. Charging and Discharging of Coke Ovens. Chap. X. Cooling and Condensing Plant. Chap. XI. Gas Ex- hausters. Chap. XII. Composition and Analysis of Ammoniacal Liquor. Chap. XIII. Working up of Ammoniacal Liquor. Chap. XIV. Treatment of Waste Gases from Sulphate Plants. Chap. XV. Valuation of Ammonium Sulphate. Chap. XVI. Direct Recovery of Ammonia from Coke Oven Gases. Chap. XVII. Surplus Gas from Coke Oven. Useful Tables. Very fully illustrated. «3.50 net COMPRESSED AIR COMPRESSED AIR IN ALL ITS APPLICATIONS, By Gardner D. Hiscox. This is the most complete book on the subject of Air that has ever been issued, and its thirty-five chapters include about every phase of the subject one can think of. It may be called an encyclopedia of compressed air. It is written by an expert, who, in its 665 pages, has dealt with the subject in a comprehensive manner, no phase of it being omitted. Over 500 illustrations, 5th Edition, revised and enlarged. Cloth bound; 85.00, Half morocco, $0-.SO CONCRETE ORNAMENTAL CONCRETE WITHOUT MOLDS, By A. A. Houghton. The process for making ornamental concrete with- out molds, has long been held as a secret and now, for the first time, this process is given to the public. The book reveals the secret and is the only book published which explains a simple, practical method whereby the concrete worker is enabled, by employing wood and metal templates of different designs, to mold or model in concrete any Cornice, Archivolt, Column, Pedestal, Base Cap, Urn or Pier in a monolithic form — right upon the job. These may be molded in units or blocks, and then built up to suit the specifications demanded. This work is fully illustrated, with detailed engravings. S3. 00 POPULAR HAND BOOK FOR CEMENT AND CON- CRETE USERS, By Myron H. Lewis, C.E. This is a con- cise treatise of the principles and methods employed in the manufacture and use of cement in all classes of modern works. The author has brought together in this work, all the salient matter of interest to the user of concrete and its many diversified products. The matter is presented in logical and systematic order, clearly written, fully illustrated and free from involved mathematics. Everything of value to the concrete user is given. Among the chapters contained in the book are: I. Historical Development of the Uses of Cement and Concrete. II. Glossary of Terms employed in Cement and Concrete work. III. Kinds of Cement employed in Construction. IV. Limes, Ordinary and Hydraulic. V. Lime Plasters. VI. Natural Cements. VII. Portland Cements. VIII. Inspection and Testing. IX. Adul- teration; or Foreign Substances in Cement. X. Sand, Gravel and Broken Stone. XI. Mortar. XII. Grout. XIII. Con- crete (Plain). XIV. Concrete (Reinforced). XV. Methods and Kinds of Reinforcements. XVI. Forms for Plain and Re- inforced Concrete. XVII. Concrete Blocks. XVIII. Arti- ficial Stone. XIX. Concrete Tiles. XX. 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A practical hand-book of reference containing definitions of about 5,000 distinct words, terms and phrases. The defini- tions are terse and concise and include every term used in electri- cal science. Recently issued. An entirely new edition. Should be in the possession of all who desire to keep abreast with the progress of this branch of science. Complete, concise and eon- veniort. 682 pages — 393 illustrations. $3.00 S DIES— METAL WORK DIES. THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND USE FOB THE MODERN WORKING OP SHEET METALS. By J. V. Woodworth. A new book by a practical man, for those who wish to know the latest practice in the working of sheet metals. It shows how dies are designed, made and used, and those who are engaged in this line of work can secure many valuable sug- gestions. 83.00 PUNCHES, DIES AND TOOLS POR MANUFACTUR- ING IN PRESSES. By T. V. Woodworth. An encyclo- pedia of die-making, punch-making, die-sinking, sheet-metal working, and making of special tools, subpresses, devices and mechanical combinations for punching, cutting, bending, form- ing, piercing, drawing, compressing, and assembling sheet- metal parts and also articles of other materials in machine tools. This is a distinct work from the author's book entitled "Dies; Their Construction and Use." 500 pages, 700 engrav- ings. 84.00 DRAWING— SKETCHING PAPER LINEAR PERSPECTIVE SELF-TAUGHT. By Herman T. C. Kraus. This work gives the theory and practice of linear perspective, as used in architectural, engineering, and mechanical drawings. Persons taking up the study of the subject by them- selves, without the aid of a teacher, will be able by the use of the instruction given to readily grasp the subject, and by reason- able practice become good perspective draftsmen. The arrange- ment of the book is good; the plate is on the left-hand, while the descriptive text follows on the opposite page, so as to be readily referred to. The drawings are on sufficiently large scale to show the work clearly and are plainly figured. The whole work makes a very complete course on perspective drawing, and will be found of great value to architects, civil and mechanical engineers, patent attorneys, art designers, engravers, and draftsmen. 82.50 PRACTICAL PERSPECTIVE. By Richards and Colvin. Shows just how to make all kinds of mechanical drawings in the only practical perspective isometric. Makes everything plain so that any mechanic can understand a sketch or drawing in this way. Saves time in the drawing room and mistakes in the shops. Contains practical examples of various classes of work. 50 cents SELF-TAUGHT MECHANICAL DRAWING AND ELE- MENTARY MACHINE DESIGN. By F. L. Sylvester, M.E., Draftsman, with additions by Erik Oberg, associate editor of "Machinery." 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This book is a practical treatise showing in detail the construction of a small dynamo or motor, the entire machine work of which can be done on a small foot lathe. Dimensioned working drawings are given for each piece of machine work and each operation is clearly described. This machine when used as a dynamo has an output of fifty watts; when used as a motor it will drive a small drill press or lathe. It can be used to drive a sewing machine on any and all ordinary work. The book is illustrated with more than sixty original engrav- ings showing the actual construction of the different parts. Paper. Paper 50 cents Cloth $1.00 ELECTRIC FURNACES AND THEIR INDUSTRIAL APPLICATIONS. By J. Wright. This is a book which will prove of interest to many classes of people; the manufacturer who desires to know what product can be manufactured success- fully in the electric furnace, the chemist who wishes to post himself on the electro-chemistry, and the student of science who merely looks into the subject from curiosity. 288 pages. $3.00 ELECTRIC LIGHTING AND HEATING POCKET BOOK. By Sydney F. Walker. This book puts in conven- ient form useful information regarding the apparatus which is likely to be attached to the mains of an electrical company. Tables of units and equivalents are included and useful electrical laws and formulas are stated. 438 pages, 3 00 engravings. $3.00 ELECTRIC TOY MAKING, DYNAMO BUILDING, AND ELECTRIC MOTOR CONSTRUCTION. This work treats of the making at home of electrical toys, electrical apparatus, motors, dynamos, and instruments in general, and is designed to bring within the reach of young and old the manufacture of gen- uine and useful electrical appliances. 185 pages. Fully illus- trate^. $1.00 7 ELECTRIC WIRING, DIAGRAMS AND SWITCH- BOARDS. By Newton Harrison. This is the only complete work issued showing and telling you what you should know about direct and alternating current wiring. It is a ready reference. The work is free from advanced technicalities and mathematics. Arithmetic being used throughout. It is in every respect a handy, well-written, instructive, comprehensive volume on wiring for the wireman, foreman, contractor or elec- trician. 272 pages, 105 illustrations. $1.50 * ELECTRICIAN'S HANDY BOOK. By Prop. T. O'Conor Sloane. This work is intended for the practical electrician, who has to make things go. The entire field of Electricity is covered within its pages. It contains no useless theory; every- thing is to the point. It teaches you just what you should know about electricity. It is the standard work published on the subject. Forty-one chapters, 610 engravings, handsomely bound in red leather with titles and edges in gold. $3.60 ELECTRICITY IN FACTORIES AND WORKSHOPS, ITS COST AND CONVENIENCE. By Arthur P. Haslam. A practical book for power producers and power users showing what a convenience the electric motor, in its various forms, has become to the modern manufacturer. It also _ deals with the conditions which determine the cost of electric driving, and compares this with other methods of producing and utilizing power. 312 pages. Very fully illustrated. $3.50 ELECTRICITY SIMPLIFIED. By Prop. T. O'Conor Sloane. The object of "Electricity Simplified" is to make the subject as plain as possible and to show what the modern con- ception of electricity is; to show how two plates of different metals immersed in acid can send a message around the globe; to explain how a bundle of copper wire rotated by a steam engine can be the agent in lighting our streets, to tell what the volt, ohm and ampere are, and what high and low tension mean; and tc answer the questions that perpetually arise in the mind in this age of electricity. 172 pages. Illustrated. $1.00 HOW TO BECOME A SUCCESSFUL ELECTRICIAN. By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. An interesting book from cover to cover. Telling in simplest language the surest and easiest way to become a successful electrician. The studies to be followed, methods of work, field of operation and the requirements of the successful electrician are pointed out and fully explained. 202 pages. Illustrated. $1.00 MANAGEMENT OF DYNAMOS. By Lummis-Pater- SON. A handbook of theory and practice. This work is arranged in three parts. The first part covers the elementary theory of the dynamo. The second part, the construction and action of the different classes of dynamos in common use are described; while the third part relates to such matters as affect the prac- tical management and working of dynamos and motors. 292 pages, 117 illustrations. $1.50 STANDARD ELECTRICAL DICTIONARY. By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. A practical handbook of reference contain- ing definitions of about 5,000 distinct words, terrns and phrases. The definitions are terse and concise and include every term used in electrical science. 682 pages, 393 illustrations. $3.00 8 SWITCHBOARDS. By William Baxter, Jr. This book appeals to every engineer and electrician who wants to know the practical side of things. All sorts and conditions of dynamos, connections and circuits are shown by diagram and illustrate just how the switchboard should be connected. Includes direct and alternating current boards, also those for arc lighting, in- candescent, and power circuits. Special treatment on high voltage boards for power transmission. 190 pages. Illustrated. TELEPHONE CONSTRUCTION, INSTALLATION, WIRING, OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE. By W. H. Radcliffe and H. C. Cushing. This book gives the principles of construction and operation of both the Bell and Independent instruments; approved methods of installing and wiring them; the means of protecting them from lightning and abnormal cur- rents; their connection together for operation as series or bridg- ing stations; and rules for their inspection and maintenance. Line wiring and the wiring and operation of special telephone systems are also treated. 180 pages, 125 illustrations. 81.00 WIRING A HOUSE. By Herbert Pratt. Shows a house already built; tells just how to start about wiring it. Where to begin; what wire to use; how to run it according to insurance rules, in fact just the information you need. Directions apply equally to a shop. Fourth edition. 25 cents WIRELESS TELEPHONES AND HOW THEY WORK. By James Erskine-Murray. This work is free from elaborate details and aims at giving a clear survey of the way in which Wireless Telephones work. It is intended for amateur workers and for those whose knowledge of Electricity is slight. Chap- ters contained: How We Hear — Historical — The Conversion of Sound into Electric Waves — Wireless Transmission — The Pro- duction of Alternating Currents of High Frequency — How the Electric Waves are Radiated and Received — The Receiving Instruments — Detectors — Achievements and Expectations — Glossary of Technical Work. Cloth. 81.00 ENAMELING HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY RECEIPT BOOK. Edited by Gardner D. Hiscox. A work of 10,000 practical receipts, including enameling receipts for hollow ware, for metals, for signs, for china and porcelain, for wood, etc. Thor- ough and practical. See page 24 for full description of this book. FACTORY MANAGEMENT, ETC. MODERN MACHINE SHOP CONSTRUCTION, EQUIP- MENT AND MANAGEMENT. By O. E. Perrigo, M.E. A work designed for the practical and every-day use of the Archi- tect who designs, the Manufacturers who build, the Engineers who plan and equip, the Superintendents who organize and direct, and for the information of every stockholder, director, officer, accountant, clerk, superintendent, foreman, and work- man of the modern machine shop and manufacturing plant of Industrial America. $5.00 9 FUEL COMBUSTION OF COAL, AND THE PREVENTION OF SMOKE. By Wm. M. Barr. To be a success a fireman must be "Light on Coal." He must keep his fire in good con- dition, and prevent, as far as possible, the smoke nuisance. To do this, he should know how coal burns, how smoke is formed and the proper burning of fuel to obtain the best results. He can learn this, and more too, from Barr's "Combustion of Coal." r .t is an absolute authority on all questions relating to the Firing of a Locomotive. Nearly 3 50 pages, fully illustrated. $1.00 SMOKE PREVENTION AND FUEL ECONOMY. By Booth and Kershaw. As the title indicates, this book of 197 pages and 75 illustrations deals with the problem of complete combustion, which it treats from the chemical and mechanical standpoints, besides pointing out the economical and humani- tarian aspects of the question. S3. 50 GAS ENGINES AND GAS CHEMISTRY OF GAS MANUFACTURE. By H. M. Royles. A practical treatise for the use of gas engineers, gas managers and students. Including among its contents — Prepa- rations of Standard Solutions, Coal, Furnaces, Testing and Regulation. Products of Carbonization. Analysis of Crude Coal Gas. Analysis of Lime. Ammonia. Analysis of Oxide of Iron. Uaphthalene. Analysis of Fire-Bricks and Fire-Clay. Weldom and Spent Oxide. Photometry and Gas Testing. Carbur- etted Water Gas. Metropolis Gas. Miscellaneous Extracts. Useful Tables. 84.50 GAS ENGINE CONSTRUCTION, Or How to Build a Half- Horse-power Gas Engine. By Parsell and Weed. A prac- tical treatise describing the theory and principles of the action of gas engines of various types, and the design and construction of a half-horse-power gas engine, with illustrations of the work in actual progress, together with dimensioned working drawings giv- ing clearly the sizes of the various details. 300 pages. $2.50 GAS, GASOLINE, AND OIL ENGINES. By Gardner D. Hiscox. Just issued, 18th revised and enlarged edition. Every user of a gas engine needs this book. Simple, instructive, and right up-to-date. The only complete work on the subject. Tells all about the running and management of gas, gasoline and oil engines as designed and manufactured in the United States. Explosive motors for stationary, marine and vehicle power are fully treated, together with illustrations of their parts and tabu- lated sizes, also their care and running are included. Electric Ignition by Induction Coil and Jump Sparks are fully explained and illustrated, including valuable information on the testing for economy and power and the erection of power plants. The special information on producer and suction gases in- cluded cannot fail to prove of value to all interested in the gen- eration of producer gas and its utilization in gas engines. The rules and regulations of the Board of Fire Underwriters In regard to the installation and management of Gasoline Motors is given in full, suggesting the safe installation of explosive motor power. A list of United States Patents issued on Gas, Gasoline and Oil Engines and their adjuncts from 1875 to date is included 484 pages. 410 engravings. $2.50 net 10 MODERN GAS ENGINES AND PRODUCER GAS PLANTS. By R. E. Mathot, M.E. A practical treatise of 320 pages, fully illustrated by 175 detailed illustrations, setting forth the principles of gas engines and producer design, the selec- tion and installation of an engine, conditions of perfect opera- tion, producer-gas engines and their possibilities, the care of gas engines and producer-gas plants, with a chapter on volatile hydrocarbon and oil engines. This book has been endorsed by Dugal Clerk as a most useful work for all interested in Gas Engine installation and Producer Gas. S3. .50 GEARING AND CAMS BEVEL, GEAR TABLES. By D. Ag. Engstrom. No one ■who has to do with bevel gears in any way should be without this book. The designer and draftsman will find it a great con- venience, while to the machinist who turns up the blanks or cuts the teeth, it is invaluable, as all needed dimensions are given and no fancy figuring need be done. 81.00 CHANGE GEAR DEVICES. By Oscar E. Perrigo. A book for every designer, draftsman and mechanic who is inter- ested in feed changes for any kind of machines. This shows what has been done and how. Gives plans, patents and all information that you need. Saves hunting through patent records and rein- venting old ideas. A standard work of reference. $1.00 DRAFTING OF CAMS. By Louis Rouillion. The laying out of cams is a serious problem unless you know how to go at it right. This puts you on the right road for practically any kind of cam you are likely to run up against. 25 cents HYDRAULICS HYDRAULIC ENGINEERING. By Gardner D. Hiscox. A treatise on the properties, power, and resources of water for all purposes. Including the measurement of streams; the flow of water in pipes or conduits; the horse-power of falling water; turbine and impact water-wheels; wave-motors, centrifugal, reciprocating, and air-lift pumps. "With 300 figures and dia- grams and 36 practical tables. 320 pages. £4.00 ICE AND REFRIGERATION POCKET BOOK OF REFRIGERATION AND ICE MAK- ING, By A. J. Wallis-Taylor. This is one of the latest and most comprehensive reference books published on the subject of refrigeration and cold storage. It explains the properties and refrigerating effect of the different fluids in use, the manage- ment of refrigerating machinery and the construction and insula- tion of cold rooms with their required pipe surface for different degrees of cold; freezing mixtures and non-freezing brines, temperatures of cold rooms for all kinds of provisions, cold storage charges for all classes of goods, ice making and storage of ice, data and memoranda for constant reference by refrigerating engineers, with nearly one hundred tables containing valuable references to every fact and condition required in the installment and operation of a refrigerating plant. 81. 50 11 INVENTIONS — PATENTS INVENTOR'S MANUAL, HOW TO MAKE A PATENT PAY. This is a book designed as a guide to inventors in per- fecting their inventions, taking out their patents, and disposing of them. It is not in any sense a Patent Solicitor s Circular, nor a Patent Broker's Advertisement. No advertisements of any description appear in the work. It is a book containing a quarter of a century's experience of a successful inventor, together with notes based upon the experience of many other inventors. 81.00 LATHE PRACTICE MODERN AMERICAN LATHE PRACTICE. By Oscar E. Pbrrigo. An up-to-date book on American Lathe Work, describing and illustrating the very latest practice in lathe and boring-mill operations, as well as the construction of and latest developments in the manufacture of these important classes of machine tools. 300 pages, fully illustrated. 83.50 PRACTICAL METAL TURNING. By Joseph G. Horner. A work of 404 pages, fully illustrated, covering in a comprehen- sive manner the modern practice of machining metal parts m the lathe, including the regular engine lathe, its essential design, its uses its tools, its attachments, and the manner of holding the work and performing the operations. The modernized engine lathe, its methods, tools, and great range of accurate work, ihe Turret Lathe, its tools, accessories and methods of performing its functions. Chapters on special work, grinding, tool holders, speeds, feeds, modern tool steels, etc., etc. 83.o0 TURNING AND BORING TAPERS. By Fred H. Col- vin There are two ways to turn tapers; the right way and one other. This treatise has to do with the right way; it tells you how to start the work properly, how to set the lathe, what tools to use and how to use them, and forty and one other little things that you should know. Fourth edition. 35 cents LIQUID AIR LIQUID AIR AND THE LIQUEFACTION OP GASES. By T. O' Conor Sloanb. Theory, history, biography, practical applications, manufacture. 365 pages. Illustrated. 83.00 LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEERING AIR-BRAKE CATECHISM. By Robert H. Blackall. This book is a standard text book. It covers the Westmghouse Air-Brake Equipment, including the No. 5 and the No. obi Locomotive Brake Equipment; the K (Quick-Service) Triple Valve for Freight Service; and the Cross-Compound Pump. The operation of all parts of the apparatus is explained m detail, and a practical way of finding their peculiarities and defects, with a proper remedy, is given. It contains 2,000 questions with their answers, which will enable any railroad man to pass any examination on the subject of Air Brakes. Endorsed and used by air-brake instructors and examiners on nearly every rail- road in the United States. 23d Edition. 380 pages, fully illustrated with folding plates and diagrams. SA.W 12 AMERICAN COMPOUND LOCOMOTIVES. By Fred H. Colvin. The most complete book on compounds published. Shows all types, including the balanced compound. Makes everything clear by many illustrations, and shows valve setting, breakdowns and repairs. 142 pages. 81.00 APPLICATION OF HIGHLY SUPERHEATED STEAM TO LOCOMOTIVES. By Robert Garbe. A practical book. Contains special chapters on Generation of Highly Superheated Steam; Superheated Steam and the Two-Cylinder Simple Engine; Compounding and Superheating; Designs of Locomotive Superheaters; Constructive Details of Locomotives using Highly Superheated Steam; Experimental and Working Results. Illus- trated with folding plates and tables. $2.50 COMBUSTION OF COAL AND THE PREVENTION OF SMOKE. By Wm. M. Barr. To be a success a fireman must be " Light on Coal. " He must keep his fire in good con- dition, and prevent as far as possible, the smoke nuisance. To do this, he should know how coal burns, how smoke is formed and the proper burning of fuel to obtain the best results. He can learn this, and more too, from Barr's "Combination of Coal." It is an absolute authority on all questions relating to the Firing of a Locomotive. Nearly 350 pages, fully illustrated. $1.00 LINK MOTIONS, VALVES AND VALVE SETTING. By Fred H. Colvin, Associate Editor of " American Machinist. A handy book that clears up the mysteries of valve setting. Shows the different valve gears in use, how they work, and why. Piston and slide valves of different types are illustrated and explained. A book that every railroad man in the motive- power department ought to have. Fully illustrated. 50 cents. LOCOMOTIVE BOILER CONSTRUCTION. By Frank A. Kleinhans. The only book showing how locomotive boilers are built in modern shops. Shows all types of boilers used; gives details of construction; practical facts, such as life of riveting punches and dies, work done per day, allowance for bending and flanging sheets and other data that means dol- lars to any railroad man. 421 pages, 334 illustrations. Six folding plates. $3.00 LOCOMOTIVE BREAKDOWNS AND THEIR REM- EDIES. By Geo. L. Fowler. Revised by Wm. W. Wood, Air-Brake Instructor. Just issued 19 10 Revised pocket edition. It is out of the question to try and tell you about every subject that is covered in this pocket edition of Locomotive Breakdowns. Just imagine all the common troubles that an engineer may ex- pect to happen some time, and then add all of the unexpected ones, troubles that could occur, but that you had never thought about, and you will find that they are all treated with the very best methods of repair. Walschaert Locomotive Valve Gear Troubles, Electric Headlight Troubles, as well as Questions and Answers on the Air Brake are all included. 294 pages. Fully illustrated. $1.00 LOCOMOTIVE CATECHISM. By Robert Grimshaw. 27th revised and enlarged edition. This may well be called an encyclopedia of the locomotive. Contains over 4,000 examina- tion questions with their answers, including among them those asked at the First, Second and Third year's Examinations. 825 pages, 437 illustrations and 3 folding plates. $3.50 NEW YORK AIR-BRAKE CATECHISM. By RoBEkr H Blackall. This is a complete treatise on the New York Air-Brake and Air-Signalling Apparatus., giving a detailed de- scription of all the parts, their operation, troubles, and the methods of locating and remedying the same. 200 pages.Mly illustrated. POCKET-RAILROAD DICTIONARY AND VADE WE- CUM. By Fred H. Colvin, Associate Editor American Machinist." Different from any book you ever saw. Gives clear and concise information on just the points you are interested m l"s really a pocket dictionary, fully illustrated, and so arranged that you can find just what you want m a second without an index Whether you are interested in Axles or Acetylene; Com- pounds or Counter Balancing; Rails or Reducing Valves; g Tires or Turntables, you'll find them m this little book. It s very complete. Flexible cloth cover, 200 pages. TRAIN RULES AND DESPATCHING. ByH. A.Dalby. Contains the standard code for both single and double track and explains how trains are handled under all conditions. Gives all ffgnals in colors, is illustrated wherever necessary and the mfst complete book in print on this important subject. Bound in fine seal flexible leather. 221 pages. WALSCHAERT LOCOMOTIVE VALVE GEAR. By Wm W Wood. If you would thoroughly understand the Wal'schaert Valve Gear! you should possess a copy of this book The author divides the subject into four divisions, as follows: I Analys°s of the gear. II. Designing and erecting of the gear TIT Advantages of the gear. IV. Questions and answers re latingTc H£e Walschaert Valve Gear. This book is specially valu- able to those preparing for promotion. Nearly 200 pages. $1.50 WESTINCxHOUSE E T AIR-BRAKE INSTRUCTION PoSt BOOK CATECHISM. By Wm. W. Wood, Air-Brake Instructor. A practical work containing examination questions and. answers on the E T Equipment. Covering what the E T Brake is How it should be operated. What to do when de- fective Not a question can be asked of the engmeman up for promotion on either the No. S or the No. 6 E T equipment that is not asked and answered in the book. If you want to thor- ouehlv understand the E T equipment get a copy of this book. It lovers every detail. Makes Air-Brake troubles and examma- "ons easy Fully illustrated with colored plates, showing various pressures. MACHINE SHOP PRACTICE AMERICAN TOOL MAKING AND INTERCHANGE- ABLE MANUFACTURING. By J. V. Woodworth A practical treatise on the designing, constructing, use, and in- flation of tools jig fixtures, devices, special appliances sheet-metal working 'processes, automatic mechanisms, and 1 abor-s^ving contr ivlnces; together with their use m the lathe mutormachine, turret lathe, screw machine, boring mill, power press drill subpress, drop hammer, etc for the working of metlis the production of interchangeable machine parts, and Se manufacture of repetition articles of metal. 560 pages. 600 illustrations. ™J?, ENIjEY ' S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL EN- GINEERING AND ALLIED TRADES. Edited by Joseph G. Horner. A.M.I.Mech.I. This work covers the entire prac- tice of Civil and Mechanical Engineering. The best known ex- perts m all branches of engineering have contributed to these f^t 3, • he c y c !, 0 P e dia is admirably well adapted to the needs ot the beginner and the self-taught practical man, as well as the mechanical engineer, designer, draftsman, shop superintendent, foreman and machinist. ' •„ u « a modern treatise in five volumes. Handsomely bound m rlall Morocco, each volume containing nearly 500 pages, with thousands of illustrations, including diagrammatic and sectional drawings with full explanatory details. S25.00 for the com- plete set of five volumes. S6.00 per volume, when ordered singly. Mn^ CI ^T SI ?OP ARITHMETIC. By Colvin-Cheney. Most popular book for shop men. Shows how all shop problems are worked out and why." Includes change gears for cutting any threads; drills, taps, shink and force fits; metric system of measurements and threads. Used by all classes of mechanics and for instruction of Y. M. C. A. and other schools. Fifth edition. 131 pages. 50 cents n^ C ^ ICAL MOVEMENTS, POWERS, AND DE- VICES. By Gardner D. Hiscox. This is a collection of 1890 engravings of different mechanical motions and appliances ac- companied by appropriate text, making it a book of great value to the myentor, the draftsman, and to all readers with mechanical tastes, Ihe book is divided into eighteen sections or chapters m wmch the subject matter is classified under the following heads: Mechanical Powers, Transmission of Power, Measurement of Jr-ower, Steam Power, Air Power Appliances, Electric Power and Construction Navigation and Roads, Gearing, Motion and Devices, Controlling Motion, Horological, Mining, Mill and £ actory Appliances, Construction and Devices, Drafting Devices Miscellaneous Devices, etc. nth edition. 400 octavo pages 82.50 *,„y}?f UA * lCAl ' APPLIANCES, MECHANICAL MOVE- MENTS AND NOVELTIES OF CONSTRUCTION By Gardner D. Hiscox This is a supplementary volume to the one upon mechanical movements. Unlike the first volume which is more elementary in character, this volume contains illustrations and descriptions of many combinations of motions a ? d r "? echanlc al devices and appliances found in different lines of Machinery. Each device being shown by a line drawing with a description showing its working parts and the method of opera- tion £rom the multitude of devices described, and illustrated might be mentioned in passing, such items as conveyors and elevators,_ Prony brakes, thermometers, various types of boilers solar engines oil-fuel burners, condensers, evaporators Corliss and other valve gears, governors, gas engines, water motors of various descriptions, air ships, motors and dynamos, automobile and motor bicycles railway block signals, car couples, link and gear motions ball bearings, breech block mechanism for heavy guns, and a large accumulation of others of equal importance 1,000 specially made engravings. 396 octavo pages. $2.50 SPECIAL OFFER These , tw o volumes sell for $2.50 each, , .. , Dut when the two volumes are ordered at one time from us we send them prepaid to any address in the world, on receipt of $4.00. You save $1 by ordering the two volumes of Mechanical Movements at one time. IS MODERN MACHINE SHOP CONSTRUCTION, EQUIP- MENT AND MANAGEMENT. By Oscar E. Perrigo. The only work published that describes the Modern Machine Shop or Manufacturing Plant from the time the grass is growing on the site intended for it until the finished product is shipped. Just the book needed by those contemplating the erection ot modern shop buildings, the rebuilding and reorganization o£ old ones, or the introduction of Modern Shop Methods, Time and Cost Systems. It is a book written and illustrated by a prac- tical shop man for practical shop men who are too busy to read theories and want facts. }t is the most complete all-around book of its kind ever published. 400 large quarto pages, 225 original and specially -made illustrations. *a.uu MODERN MACHINE SHOP TOOLS; THEIR CON- STRUCTION, OPERATION, AND MANIPULATION. By W. H. Vandervoort. A work of 55s pages and 673 illustra- tions, describing in every detail the construction, operation, and manipulation of both Hand and Machine Tools. Includes chapters on filing, fitting, and scraping surfaces; on drills, ream- ers taps, and dies; the lathe and its tools; planers, shapers, and their tools; milling machines and cutters; gear cutters and gear cutting; drilling machines and drill work; grinding ma- chines and their work; hardening and tempering; gearing, belting and transmission machinery; useful data and t^ 1 ^ THE MODERN MACHINIST. By John T. Usher. This book might be called a compendium of shop methods, showing a variety of special tools and appliances which will give new ideas to many mechanics from the superintendent down to the man at the bench. It will be found a valuable addition to any machin- ist's library and should be consulted whenever a new or difficult job is to be done, whether it is boring, milling, turning, or plan- ing, as they are all treated in a practical manner. Fifth edition. 320 pages, 250 illustrations. $3.50 MODERN MECHANISM. Edited by Park Benjamin. A practical treatise on machines, motors and the transmission of power, being a complete work and a supplementary volume to Appleton's Cyclopedia of Applied Mechanics. Deals solely with the principal and most useful advances of the past few years. 959 pages containing over 1,000 illustrations; bound in -hah morocco. S4.00 MODERN MILLING MACHINES: THEIR DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND OPERATION. By Joseph G. Horner This book describes and illustrates the Milling Ma- chine and its work in such a plain, clear, and forceful manner, and illustrates the subject so clearly and completely, that the up-to-date machinist, student, or mechanical engineer can not afford to do without the valuable information which it contains. It describes not only the early machines of this class, but notes their gradual development into the splendid machines of the present day, giving the design and construction of the various types, forms, and special features produced by prominent manufacturers, American and foreign. 304 pages, 300 "lustra- tions. •*' 00 •« SHOP KINKS." By Robert Grimshaw. This shows special methods of doing work of various kinds, and reducing cost of production. Has hints and kinks from some of the largest shops in this country and Europe. You are almost sure to find some that apply to your work, and in such a way as to save time and trouble. 400 pages. Fourth edition. S3.50 J6 TOOLS FOB MACHINISTS AND WOOD WORKERS, INCLUDING INSTRUMENTS OF MEASUREMENT. By Joseph G. Horner. A practical treatise of 340 pages, fully illustrated and comprising a general description and classifica- tion of cutting tools and tool angles, allied cutting tools for machinists and -woodworkers; shearing tools; scraping tools; saws; milling cutters; drilling and boring tools; taps and dies; punches and hammers; and the hardening, tempering and grinding of these tools. Tools for measuring and testing work, including standards of measurement; surface plates; levels; surface gauges; dividers; calipers; verniers; micrometers; snap, cylindrical and limit gauges; screw thread, wire and reference gauges, indicators, templets, etc. $3.50 MANUAL TRAINING ECONOMICS OF MANUAL TRAINING. By Louis Rouillion. The only book that gives just the information needed by all interested in manual training, regarding buildings, equipment and supplies. Shows exactly what is needed for all grades of the work from the Kindergarten to the High and Nor- mal School. Gives itemized lists of everything needed and tells just what it ought to cost. Also shows where to buy supplies. $1.50 MARINE ENGINEERING MARINE ENGINES AND BOILERS, THEIR DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION. By Dr. G. Bauer, Leslie S. Robertson, and S. Bryan Donkin. _ This work is clearly written, thoroughly systematic, theoretically sound; while the character of its plans, drawings, tables, and statistics is without reproach. The illustrations are careful reproductions from actual working drawings, with some well-executed photographic views of completed engines and boilers. $9.00 net MINING 5 ORE DEPOSITS OF SOUTH AFRICA WITH A CHAPTER ON HINTS TO PROSPECTORS. By J. P. John- son. This book gives a condensed account of the ore-deposits at present known in South Africa. It is also intended as a guide to the prospector. Only an elementary knowledge of geology and some mining experience are necessary in order to under- stand this work. With these qualifications, it will materially assist one in his search for metalliferous mineral occurrences and, so far as simple ores are concerned, should enable one to form some idea of the possibilities of any they may find. Among the chapters given are: Titaniferous and Chromif- erous Iron Oxides — Nickel — Copper — Cobalt — Tin — Molyb- denum — Tungsten — Lead — Mercury — Antimony — I r o n — Hints to Prospectors. Illustrated. $2.00 PRACTICAL COAL MINING. By T. H. Cockin. An im- portant work, containing 428 pages and 213 illustrations, com- plete with practical details, which will intuitively impart to the reader, not only a general knowledge of the principles of coal mining, but also considerable insight into allied subjects. The treatise is positively up to date in every instance, and should be in the hands of every colliery engineer, geologist, mine operator, superintendent, foreman, and all others who are in- terested in or connected with the industry. $2.50 17 PHYSICS AND CHEMISTRY OF MINING. By T. H. Byrom. A practical work for the use of all preparing for ex- aminations in mining or qualifying for colliery managers' cer- tificates. The aim of the author in this excellent book is to place clearly before the reader useful and authoritative data which will render him valuable assistance in his studies. The only work of its kind published. The information incorporated in it will prove of the greatest practical utility to students, mining en- gineers, colliery managers, and all others who are specially in- terested in the present-day treatment of mining problems. 160 pages. Illustrated. $2.00 MISCELLANEOUS BRONZES. Henley's Twentieth Century Receipt Book con- tains many practical formulas on bronze casting, imitation bronze, bronze polishes, renovation of bronze. See page 24 for full description of this book. $3.00 EMINENT ENGINEERS. By Dwight Goddard. Every- one who appreciates the effect of such great inventions as the Steam Engine, Steamboat, Locomotive, Sewing Machine, Steel Working, and other fundamental discoveries, is interested in knowing a little about the men who made them and their achieve- ments. Mr. Goddard has selected thirty-two of the world's engineers who have contributed most largely to the advancement of our civilization by mechanical means, giving only such facts as are of general interest and in a way which appeals to all, whether mechanics or not. 280 pages, 35 illustrations. $1.50 LAWS OF BUSINESS, By Theophiltjs Parsons, LL.D. The Best Book for Business Men ever Published. Treats clearly of Contracts, Sales, Notes, Bills of Exchange, Agency, Agree- ment, Stoppage in Transitu, Consideration, Limitations, Leases, Partnership, Executors, Interest, Hotel Keepers, Fire and Life Insurance, Collections, Bonds, Frauds, Receipts, Patents, Deeds, Mortgages, Liens, Assignments, Minors, Married Women, Arbi- tration, Guardians, Wills, etc. Three Hundred Appro vsd_ Forms are given. Every Business Man should have a copy of this book for ready reference. The book is bound in full sheep, and Con- tains 864 Octavo Pages. Our special price. $3.60 PATTERN MAKING PRACTICAL, PATTERN MAKING. By F. W. Barrows. This is a very complete and entirely practical treatise on the subject of pattern making, illustrating pattern work in wood and metal. From its pages you are taught just what you should know about pattern making. It contains a detailed description of the materials used by pattern makers, also the tools, both those for hand use, and the more interesting machine tools; hav- ing complete chapters on The Band Saw, The Buzz Saw, and The Lathe. Individual patterns of many different kinds are fully illustrated and described, and the mounting of metal patterns on plates for molding machines is included. $3.00 PERFUMERY HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RE- CEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES. Edited by G. D. Hiscox. The most valuable Techno-Chemical Receipt Book published. Contains over 10,000 practical Receipts many of which will prove of special value to the perfumer, a mine of in- formation, up to date in every respect. Cloth, $3.00; half morocco. See page 34 for full description of this book. $4.00 18 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. By G. W. Askinson, Perfumer. A comprehensive treatise, in which there has been nothing omitted that could be of value to the Perfumer. Complete directions for making handkerchief per- fumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastilles; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair, cosmetics, hair dyes and other toilet articles are given, also a detailed description of aromatic substances; their nature, tests of purity, and wholesale manufacture. A book of general, as well as profes- sional interest, meeting the wants not only of the druggist and perfume manufacturer, but also of the general public. Third edition. 312 pages. Illustrated. 83.00 PLUMBING MODERN PLUMBING ILLUSTRATED. By R. M. Starbuck. The author of this book, Mr. R. M. Starbuck, is one of the leading authorities on plumbing in the United States. The book represents the highest standard of plumbing work. It has been adopted and used as a reference book by the United States Government, in its sanitary work in Cuba, Porto Rico and the Philippines, and by the principal Boards of Health of the United States and Canada. It gives Connections, Sizes and Working Data for All Fixtures and Groups of Fixtures. It is helpful to the Master Plumber in Demonstrating to his customers and in figuring work. It gives the Mechanic and Student quick and easy Access to the best Modern Plumbing Practice. Suggestions for Estimating Plumb- ing Construction are contained in its pages. This book repre- sents, in a word, the latest and best up-to-date practice, and should be in the hands of every architect, sanitary engineer and plumber who wishes to keep himself up to the minute on this important feature of construction. 400 octavo pages, fully illustrated by 55 full-page engravings. $4.00 RUBBER HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RE- CEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES. Edited by Gard- ner D. Hiscox. Contains upward of 10,000 practical receipts, including among them formulas on artificial rubber. See page 24 for full description of this book. $3.00 RUBBER HAND STAMPS AND THE MANIPULATION OF INDIA RUBBER. By T. O'Conor Sloane. This book gives full details on all points, treating in a concise and simple manner the elements of nearly everything it is necessary to under- stand for a commencement in any branch of the India Rubber Manufacture. The making of all kinds of Rubber Hand Stamps, Small Articles of India Rubber, U. S. Government Composi. tion, Dating Hand Stamps, the Manipulation of Sheet Rubber, Toy Balloons, India Rubber Solutions, Cements, Blackings, Renovating Varnish, and Treatment for India Rubber Shoes, etc.; the Hektograph Stamp Inks, and Miscellaneous Notes, with a Short Account of the Discovery, Collection, and Manufac- ture of India Rubber are set forth in a manner designed to be readily understood, the explanations being plain and simple. Second edition. 144 pages. Illustrated. $1.00 19 SAWS SAW FILING AND MANAGEMENT OF SAWS. By Robert Grimshaw. A practical hand book on filing, gumming, swaging, hammering, and the brazing of band saws, the speed, work, and power to run circular saws, etc. A handy book for those who have charge of saws, or for those mechanics who do their own filing, as it deals with the proper shape and pitches of saw teeth of all kinds and gives many useful hints and rules for gumming, setting, and filing, and is a practical aid to those who use saws for any purpose. New edition, revised and enlarged. Illustrated. * 1 - 00 SCREW CUTTING THREADS AND THREAD CUTTING. ByXoLViN and Stabel. This clears up many of the mysteries of thread- cutting, such as double and triple threads, internal threads, catch- ing threads, use of hobs, etc. Contains a lot of useful hints and several tables. 25 cents SHEET METAL WORK DIES, THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND USE FOR THE MODERN WORKING OF SHEET METALS. By J. V. Woodworth. A new book by a practical man, for those who wish to know the latest practice in the working of sheet metals. It shows how dies are designed, made and used, and those who are engaged in this line of work can secure many valuable suggestions. ® 3 - 00 PUNCHES, DIES AND TOOLS FORMANUFACTUR- ING IN PRESSES. By J. V. Woodworth. A work of 500 pages and illustrated by nearly 700 engravings, being an en- cyclopedia of die-making, punch-making, die sinking, sheet- metal working, and making of special tools, subpresses, devices and mechanical combinations for punching, cutting, bending, forming, piercing, drawing, compressing, and assembling sheet- metal parts and also articles of other materials m machine tools. STEAM ENGINEERING AMERICAN STATIONARY ENGINEERING. By W. E. Crane. A new book by a well-known author. Begins at the boiler room and takes in the whole power plant. Contains the result of years of practical experience in all sorts of engine rooms and gives exact information that cannot be found else- where. It's plain enough for practical men and yet of value to those high in the profession. Has a complete examination for a license. * 2 - 00 t BOILER ROOM CHART. By Geo. L. Fowler. A Chart —size 14x28 inches— showing in isometric perspective the mechanisms belonging in a modern boiler room. Water tube boilers, ordinary grates and mechanical stokers, feed water heaters and pumps comprise the equipment. The various parts are shown broken or removed, so that the internal construction is fully illustrated. Each part is given a reference number, and these, with the corresponding name, are given m a glossary printed at the sides. This chart is really a dictionary of the boiler room — the names of more than 200 parts being given. It is educational— worth many times its cost. cents 20 ENGINE RUNNER'S CATECHISM. By Robert Grim- shaw. Tells how to erect, adjust, and run the principal steam engines in use in the United States. The work is of a handy- size for the pocket. To young engineers this catechism will be of great value, especially to those who may be preparing to go forward to be examined for certificates of competency; and to engineers generally it will be of no little service as they will find in this volume more really practical and useful information than is to be found anywhere else within a like compass. 387 pages. S'xth edition. $2.00 ENGINE TESTS AND BOILER EFFICIENCIES. By J. Buchetti. This work fully describes and illustrates the method of testing the power of steam engines, turbine and explosive motors. The properties of steam and the evapora- tive power of fuels. _ Combustion of fuel and chimney draft; with formulas explained or practically computed. 255 pages, 179 illustrations. $3.00 HORSE POWER CHART. Shows the horse power of any stationary engine without calculation. No matter what the cylinder diameter or stroke; the steam pressure or cut-off; the revolutions, or whether condensing or non-condensing, it's all there. Easy to use, accurate, and saves time and calculations. Especially useful to engineers and designers. 50 cents MODERN STEAM ENGINEERING IN THEORY AND PRACTICE. By Gardner D. Hiscox. This is a complete and practical work issued for Stationary Engineers and Firemen dealing with the care and management of Boilers, Engines, Pumps, Superheated Steam, Refrigerating Machinery, Dyna- mos, Motors, Elevators, Air Compressors, and all other branches with which the modern Engineer must be familiar. Nearly 200 Questions with their Answers on Steam and Electrical Engineering, likely to be asked by the Examining Board, are included. 487 pages, 405 engravings. $3.00 STEAM ENGINE CATECHISM. By Robert Grimshaw. This volume of 413 pages is not only a catechism on the question and answer principle; but it contains formulas and worked-out answers for all the Steam problems that appertain to the opera- tion and management of the Steam Engine. Illustrations of various valves and valve gear with their principles of operation are given. 3 4 tables that are indispensable to every engineer and fireman that wishes to be progressive and is ambitious to become master of his calling are within its pages. It is a most valuable instructor in the service of Steam Engineering. Leading en- gineers have recommended it as a valuable educator for the be- ginner as well as a reference book for the engineer. Sixteenth edition. $3.00 STEAM ENGINEER'S ARITHMETIC. By Colvin- Cheney. A practical pocket book for the Steam Engineer. Shows how to work the problems of the engine room and shows "why." Tells how to figure horse-power of engines and boilers; area of boilers; has tables of areas and circumferences; steam tables; has a dictionary of engineering terms. Puts you onto all of the little kinks in figuring whatever there is to figure around a power plant. Tells you about the heat unit; absolute zero; adiabatic expansion; duty of engines; factor of safety; and 1,001 other things; and everything is plain and simple — not the hardest, way to figure, but the easiest. fiO cents 21 STEAM HEATING AND VENTILATION PRACTICAL STEAM, HOT -WATER HEATING AND VENTILATION. By A. G. King. This book is the standard and latest work published on the subject and has been prepared for the use of all engaged in the business of steam, hot-water heating and ventilation. It is an original and exhaustive work. Tells how to get heating contracts, how to install heating and ventilating apparatus, the best business methods to be used, with "Tricks of the Trade" for shop use. Rules and data for esti- mating radiation and cost and such tables and information as make it an indispensable work for everyone interested in steam, hot -water heating and ventilation. It describes all the principal systems of steam, hot-water, vacuum, vapor and vacuum- vapor heating, together with the new accelerated systems of hot-water circulation, including chapters on up-to-date methods of ventilation and the fan or blower system of heating and venti- lation. You should secure a copy of this book, as each chapter con- tains a mine of practical information. 367 pages, 300 detailed engravings. 83.00 STEAM PIPES STEAM PIPES: THEIR DESIGN AND CONSTRUC- TION. By Wm. H. Booth. The work is well illustrated in regard to pipe joints, expansion offsets, flexible joints, and self-contained sliding joints for taking up the expansion of long pipes. In fact, the chapters on the flow of Steam and expansion of pipes are most valuable to all steam fitters and users. The pressure strength of pipes and method of hanging them is well treated and illustrated. Valves and by-passes are fully illustrated and described, as are also flange joints and their proper proportions. Exhaust heads and separators. One of the most valuable chapters is that on superheated steam and the saving of steam by insulation with the various kinds of felting and other materials, with comparison tables of the loss of heat in thermal units from naked and felted steam pipes. Contains 187 pages. $3.00 STEEL AMERICAN STEEL WORKER. By E. R. Markham. The standard work on hardening, tempering and annealing steel of all kinds. A practical book for the machinist, tool maker or superintendent. Shows just how to secure best results in any case that comes along. How to make and use furnaces and case harden; how to handle high-speed steel and how to temper for all classes of work. $2.50 HARDENING, TEMPERING, ANNEALING, AND FORGING OF STEEL. By J. V. Woodworth. A new book containing special directions for the successful hardening and tempering of all steel tools. Milling cutters, taps, thread dies, reamers, both solid and shell, hollow mills, punches and dies, and all kinds of sheet -metal working tools, shear blades, saws, fine cutlery and metal-cutting tools of all descriptions^ as well as for all implements of steel both large and small, the simplest, and most satisfactory hardening and tempering processes are presented. The uses to which the leading brands of steel may be adapted are concisely presented, and their treatment for work- ing under different conditions explained, as are also the special methods for the hardening and tempering of special brands. 3 bo pages, 250 illustrations. $3.50 HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK nt rt CEIPTS FORMULAS AND PROCeS" SSSd byoSl H™v w- 1 00 /' • ^ he m0St valuable techno-chemical Receipt book published, giving, among other practical receipts, methods al/ii nea ! ln S' c ° lor ' n g. tempering, welding, plating, polishing and craning steel. See page 24 for full description of this book. S3.00 WATCH MAKING ™, HEN1,ET ' S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RE- CEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES. Edited by Gardner D Hiscox. Contains upwards of 10,000 practical formulas including many watchmakers' formulas. 83.00 WATCHMAKER'S HANDBOOK. By Claudius Saunier. JNo work issued can compare with this book for clearness and completeness. _ It contains 498 pages and is intended as a work- shop companion for those engaged in Watchmaking and allied Mechanical Arts. Nearly 250 engravings and fourteen plates are included. $3 WIRELESS TELEPHONES WIRELESS TELEPHONES AND HOW THEY WORK. By James Erskine-Murray. This work is free from elaborate W,viif a ^ d , aiI ? s at glvI ?S a r cIear survey of the way in which Wireless/Telephones work. It is intended for amateur workers and tor those whose knowledge of Electricity is slight. Chap- a . me ^, : ¥? W TW e Hear— Historical— The Conversion of bound mto Electric Waves— Wireless Transmission— The Pro- duction of Alternating Currents of High Frequency— How the -fc-Iectnc Waves are Radiated and Received— The Receiving instruments— Detectors— Achievements and Expectations- Glossary of Technical Words. Cloth. 81.00 23 Henley's Twentieth Century Book of Recipes, Formulas and Processes Edited by GARDNER D. HISCOX, M.E. Price $3.00 Cloth Binding $4.00 Half Morocco Binding Contains over 1 0,000 Selected Scientific, Chemical, TVrlmnlogical and Practical Recipes and Processes, inclttdingJHundredsjf THIS book of 8oo pages is the most complete Book of Recipes ever published, giving thousands of recipes for the manufacture of valuable articles forevery-day use. Hints, Helps, Practical Ideas and Secret Processes are revealed within its pages. It covers every branch of the useful arts and tells thousands of ways of making money and is just the book everyone should have at his command. , The pages are filled with matters of intense interest and immeasurable practical value to the Photographer, the Perfumer, the Painter, the Manufacturer of Glues, Pastes, Cements and Mucilages, the Physician, the Druggist, the Electrician, the Brewer, the Engineer, the Foundryman, the Machinist, the Potter, the Tanner, the Confectioner, the Chiropodist, the Manufacturer of Chemical Novelties and Toilet Preparations, the Dyer, the Electroplater, the Enameler, the Engraver, the Provisioner, the Glass Worker, the Goldbeater, the Watchmaker and Jeweler, the Ink Manufacturer, the Optician, the Farmer, the Dairy- man, the Paper Maker, the Metal Worker, the Soap Maker, the Veterinary Surgeon, and the Technologist in general. A book to which you may turn with confidence that you will find what you are looking for. A mine of informa- tion up-to-date in every respect. Contains an immense number of formulas that every one ought to have that are not found in any other work. So-Called Trade Secrets for Every Business H Date Due t. B. CAT. NO. 1137