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SECOND EDITION , DEVISED . LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1869. The right of Translation is reserved . %* A Handbook Map of the Lake District from the Ordnance Survey, especially engraved for the use of Travellers, has been published by Mr. Murray as a companion to this Volume, in a Case. Price 3s. 6c?. coloured. LONDON : FEINTED BY "WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFOED STREET, AND CHARING CROSS. PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. The Handbook for Westmorland and Cumberland now offered to the public differs in several important particulars from the existing Guide-books of the Lake District. It not only includes that district, but it embraces a far wider field. Although the lake and mountain scenery of Westmorland and Cumberland will always constitute their chief attraction, there is much to interest a traveller in those counties in addi- tion to their characteristic peculiarities. Westmorland and Cumberland cannot vie with some other counties in the mao;- nificence of their ecclesiastical edifices, in the abundance of their antiquities, or in the number of their country seats, but they contain many objects of archaeological and architectural interest. Some of the old Border fortresses are remarkable for the massive grandeur of their proportions ; the traces of the Boman occupation are well worthy of notice; and the medi- aeval castles, although in some instances mere ruins, are replete with historical associations. Such objects of anti- quarian interest as these counties contain have been duly described, and all that is known respecting them has been recorded in sufficient detail. A tour through these counties will, however, generally be undertaken for the enjoyment of their scenery, and in that respect it is impossible that any disappointment can be felt. It has been the principal object of the Editor to point out to the traveller where the finest scenery exists, and how it may be most conveniently visited. A long residence in and an a 2 IV PREFACE. intimate knowledge of the district have enabled him to accom- plish this, he hopes with success. Descriptive writing has in general been avoided ; to indicate what is best worth seeing, and how it may be best seen, ought to be the principal aim of a Handbook. The recent extension of railways, and the great multiplication of the means of locomotion generally in the Lake district, have almost revolutionized the mode of travelling, and the arrangement of the routes will in conse- quence be found to differ in many respects from that hitherto adopted. PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. In preparing for the press a new and revised edition of the Handbook for Westmorland and Cumberland the Editor has availed himself of the opportunity to add some observations on the remarkable traces of former glacial action with which, among other interesting geological phenomena, the Lake district abounds. He has also made several alterations in, and additions to the Routes, which, it is hoped, will conduce to the convenience of the traveller and the tourist. CONTENTS Introduction EOUTES. Page vii *** The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are described. ROUTE PAGE 1. Lancaster to Farness Abbey , by Carnforth , Silverdale, Arnside , Grange , Holker , Ulcer ston , Lindal, and Dal- ton — Whitehaven and Furness Rly 2 2. Ulverston to Whitehaven , by Kirkby - Treleth , Broughton , Holborn Hill , Ravenglass , and $£. Bees — Whitehaven and Furness Rly 19 3. Lancaster to Amble side, by Carnforth, Milnthorpe , Oxen- holme , and Kendal — Rail Bowness and Windermere Lake 26 4. Ambleside to Coniston and the Valley of the Duddon .. .. 42 5. Ambleside to Keswick, by 6r ms- mere and 'Thirlmere — Coach 47 6. Keswick to Crummock Water and B uttermere : — 1 . By Whin- latter; 2. By the Vale of Newlands; 3. ByBorrowdale and Honister Crag . . . . 67 ROUTE PAGE 7. Lancaster to Carlisle, byTebay, Shap, and Penrith — Rail .. 73 8. Penrith to Whitehaven, by Keswick , Cocker mouth, and Workington — Rail .. .. 82 9. Whitehaven to Wastwaler, by Egremont , Colder Bridge, and Gosforth 87 10. Whitehaven to Carlisle, through Workington, Mary- porl, Aspatria, and Wig ton — Rail 95 11. Carlisle to Silloth, by Burgh - on-the-Sands — Solway Moss, Netherby — Rail 99 12. Carlisle to Gilsland Spa, by Wetheral, Corby, Brampton, and Naworth Castle — Rail .. 101 13. Penrith to Ambleside, by Dooley Bridge , Ullswater Lake, Patterdale, and Kirk- stone Pass 108 14. Penrith to Appleby, Brough, Kirkby-Stephen, and Kirkby- Lonsdale — Rail 121 Index 131 GENERAL HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. The perusal of Section III. will give tlie Traveller some notion of what is best worth seeing in the Lake Districts. Briefly to enumerate the chief objects — No one should omit the Bailway Journey from Lan- caster to Furness — both on account of the Bailway itself, its ingenious construction in the treacherous and fatal sands over which it now safely carries the traveller, and for the striking distant view of the mountain chain which it commands, — the new town of Barrow for its Harbour and ingenious Dock Works, and for the vast trade in iron and iron ore, of which it is the port. Near Grange is Cartmel Church and Holker Hall. Of Mountain Ascents and Panoramic Vieios — Helvellyn, Skid daw, and Coniston Old Man, are accessible on horseback ; Langdale Pikes and Scawfell are for experienced mountaineers. Of grand deep valleys and defiles — Borrowdale, and the pass by Honister Crag to Patterdale, the Vale of Langdale, the Pass of Grisedale, must not be left unseen. On the shores of the Lakes of Windermere and Keswick, the Tourist may while away several days with advantage ; but the upper (W.) end of Ullswater and the desolate borders of Wastwater attract those who love wilder scenery, and Patterdale is not to be despised. Of Monastic Buins , Furness Abbey, at the S.W., and Lanercost Priory at the N.E., bear away the bell. The remains of Calder Abbey deserve notice — as do the Border Castles of Na worth (inhabited), Carlisle, Brougham, Appleby, Kendal, Pendragon^and the Old Mansions of Sizergh, Levens, and Brougham Hall. Lowther Castle and Holker Hall are first-class mansions in noble parks — containing paintings — liberally allowed to be seen. Those who penetrate to the extreme N. of the district should not fail to explore the remains of the great Boman Wall , which is well seen near Lanercost and Gilsland. Of Celtic remains , the chief are the circle of stones called “ Long Meg and her Daughters,” and May burgh, a mysterious heap of stones — both near Penrith ; a circle near Keswick ; another called Carl Lofts, near Shap, has been swept away by the Railway ! In Church Architecture — Carlisle Cathedral, Cartmell Priory, and the fortified churches of Burgh-on-Sands, Great Salkeld, and Newton Arlosh, will repay the arch geologist and antiquary. INTRODUCTION. PAGE I. Physical Features and Scenery — - Climate .. .. vii II. Geology # xii , III. History, Antiquities, Castles, Country Seats . . . . xix IY. Social Aspect xxv Y. Travelling and Communications xxx VI. Skeleton Tours . . . . xxxi VII. Table of the Elevations of Mountains xxxviii VIII. Altitudes of Lakes and Tarns xxxix I. Physical Features and Scenery. The lakes and principal mountains of England are comprised within the two counties of Westmorland and Cumberland, and a small portion of Lancashire. . In the arrangement of a Handbook it has therefore been deemed expedient not to form separate itineraries for those counties, but to treat them as one district ; for they so closely resemble each other in physical features, moral characteristics, and scenery, that they may be considered, for the purpose of tourists, as one region. Westmorland derives its name from the extent of its moors or fells, which form a very considerable portion of its area. In breadth it is 40 miles, and in length about the same ; and it contains 764 square miles. Nearly the whole of it is mountainous or hilly. Eastward it is traversed by the great Pennine chain ; westward, and towards the centre, by the great Cumbrian range, which is separated from the Pennine chain by the valley of the Eden. The principal ridge of the Pennine chain enters the county at its N. border to the S. of Cross Fell, and extends through Melburn Forest to the confines of Yorkshire. On the W. side of this ridge the mountains present steep escarpments ; on the E. they extend to a considerable distance beyond the boundary of Westmorland, and subside gradually into the valley of the Tees. Cumberland is not so uniformly mountainous as Westmorland, but its scenery is on the whole of a grander character, and it comprises the most imposing mountain masses in England. The principal ridge crosses the county from E. to W. On the N. a branch is thrown off from the main ridge at High Street. The N. and N. W. districts viii i. Physical Features and Scenery . Introd. consist chiefly of low and gently undulating hills. The greatest length of the county is 80 m., and its greatest breadth 35 m., and it comprises 1523 square miles. The mountains of the district form three well-marked groups. To the north is the mass of elevated land which, rising into Skiddaw and Saddleback, and cut off from the other ranges by Bassenthwaite Lake on the west and the Yale of Greta on the south, may be called a moun- tain island. The other two mountain systems, those of Scawfell and Helveliyn, are separated by the deep long valley which, extending north and south, attains, at its highest point in the Dunmail Raise Pass, an altitude of 750 feet above the sea. From this point the streams run northward by Thirlmere and the Yale of St. John to the Greta, and southward through Grasmere, Rydal Water, and Windermere to the western arm of Morecamb Bay. To the west of this valley are the numerous ranges which radiate from Scawfell. Immediately to the east the long ridge of Helveliyn looks down on Thirlmere, connecting itself at its southern extremity by the Griesdale Pass with the chain which, rising into Fairfield, Scandal Fell, Red Screes, and Hill Bell, terminates eastward in Shap Fell. Although the mountains of Westmorland and Cumberland wjll bear no comparison, in point of altitude, with those of Switzerland, or even with those of Scotland, their forms are exceedingly varied and pictur- esque. Some are isolated and have peaked summits, as Scawfell and Bowfell ; the outlines of others are rounded, as Skiddaw ; while others are grouped in multitudinous masses like the frozen billows of a tumultuous sea. Their forms are determined by the geological structure of the country, being generally either in ridges or peaked. The latter features predominate in the landscape, but the peaks are not lofty as compared with the general mass, and never assume the form of needles or aiguilles . The contrast, therefore, between the scenery of Switzerland and that of the mountain region of England is very marked. The latter contains no elevations reaching to the line of perpetual snow, reflecting from their dazzling summits the prismatic colours of the rainbow ; nor are their sides encrusted with glaciers, nor is the traveller ever startled by the thunder of the descending avalanche. But if there is less grandeur and magnificence in the lake and mountain district of England, there is more of harmony and proportion, and there are innumerable subtle and delicate charms which are wanting in the sublimer scenery of Switzerland : — “ Here hills and vales, the woodland and the plain, Here earth and water seem to strive again ; Not chaos-like together, crushed and bruised, But, as the world, harmoniously confused ; Where order in variety we see, And where, though all things differ, all agree/’ The difference between the outer and inner portions of the moun- tain region is very marked. It seems as if the great central masses Introd. I. Physical Features and Scenery . ix had been violently forced up and riven asunder, while the adjacent country was only thrown into gentle and irregular undulations. This peculiarity has been noticed by Professor Sedgwick. On the out- skirts of the district, he says, the mountains have a dull outline and a tabular form; but those in the interior have a much more varied figure. This difference has partly arisen from the nature of the com- ponent rocks, and partly from the degree of force to which they have been subjected ; for the more central masses consist chiefly of slaty beds of different degrees of induration, tilted up on their edges, while the circumjacent hills, with some exceptions, consist of strata only slightly disturbed, and sometimes preserving nearly their horizontal position. The causes which have produced the existing configuration of the mountains and valleys of the Lake region will be noticed more at length in some remarks on the geology of the district. Westmorland and Cumberland have been extensively denuded of the forests which once covered vast tracts, and probably even clothed the summits of the mountains. It is certain that long after the Conquest both Westmorland and Cumberland were densely wooded ; for we find in the early topographical descriptions of these counties constant reference made to forests, chases, and parks, to rights of mastage and pannage, to vert and venison, to foresters and verderers. According to a survey made in the time of William I., there was “ a goodty great forest full of woods, red deer, and wild swine, and all manner of wild beasts,” called the forest of Englewood. A large portion of Skiddaw is still called Skiddaw Forest, although it bears not the slightest trace of ever having- been wooded ; and Edward I., during a hunting excursion in Cumberland, is said to have killed 200 bucks in one forest. The remains of trees of large size are still often found buried under the peat or moss of the Fells, and they frequently bear upon their trunks the marks of the axe. The partial denudation of these counties of their once extensive forests was probably caused by the great consumption of the trees for fuel, by neglect to restore the loss by planting, and by the wide-spread devas- tations which the woods suffered during the Border wars. Great as the destruction of timber has been, sufficient remains to give, in many places, great richness and softness to the scenery. The oak, the ash, and the birch, are the principal native trees ; the sycamore is gene- rally found near homesteads, where it has been planted for shelter, having been found to bear the stormy climate better than any other tree. The larch has been extensively introduced in the course of the last half- century ; plantations of it clothe many of the hills; and, without being exactly picturesque, they relieve the country from that aspect of bareness which it would otherwise present. These larch plantations form a valuable addition to the resources of the district, the wood being much in request for the construction of railways. Yews, hollies, thorns, and junipers, are found on the sides of almost all the hills, and the hazel forms the common underwood of the country. The singular forms which the juniper bushes growing upon many of a 3 x j. Physical Features and Scenery . Introd. the fells sometimes assume will not escape notice. They are nibbled by sheep into rounded figures flattened at their tops, and occasionally into cones, which, growing out of reach of the sheep, push up one or two long shoots and give to the shrub the appearance of a ragged plume. The number of wild plants which grow in the district is exceedingly large, affording to the botanist a wide field for research. Specimens of the rarer kinds are not unfrequent, and the transitions from class to class are probably more sudden than in any other district of equal extent in England. This arises from differences of altitude, the varie- ties of rock and soil, and doubtless also from the different degrees of moisture, the rainfall varying in different places from 22 inches to 160 inches in the year. The district is especially rich in cryptogamic plants, and the ferns are various, abundant, and beautiful. Although the mountain-sides are often destitute of wood, the forms of the mountains themselves are in general eminently picturesque. In summer the general tone of their colouring is green ; but in autumn this uniformity of tint is varied by the fading “ brackens ” or ferns, which, changing at first to a light lemon colour, gradually deepen into yellow, orange, crimson, and brown. The effects produced by atmospheric changes are often exceedingly beautiful, and the aerial tints which are thus imparted to the distant ranges, and the gorgeous colouring which they sometimes acquire, when they are as it were “ Grain-tinctured, drenched in empyrean liglit, ,> will be appreciated by those who are on the watch for pictorial effects which can scarcely be exceeded in any other country. “ It is most interesting to watch the solemn march of the deep shadows which often chequer the surface of the mountains, to observe how morning sheds a faint light upon their summits through a general mass of hazy shade, how in a few hours all this indistinctness is dissi- pated, and the lights and shades begin to break and separate, and take their form and breadth ; how deep and determined the shadows are at noon, how fugitive and uncertain they are as the sun declines. It is equally interesting to note the various shapes which the mountains assume by reason of this variety of illumination ; rocks, knolls, and promontories taking entirely new forms, even appearing and disappear- ing as the sun veers round, whose radiance, like a varnish on a picture (if such a comparison may be allowed), brings out a thousand objects unobserved before.” — Gilpin. The Lakes , like the mountains, are small if compared with those of Scotland ; but they are very varied in their outlines, dimensions, and scenic effects. The banks of some are clothed with wood, some have lawns and meadows sloping down to their margin, while others are overhung by dark and inaccessible precipices. These beautiful sheets of water generally owe their origin to dislocations or faults in the strata of the district in which they lie. The bottom of Wastwater, for example, is considerably lower than the sea-level, and consists of solid rock* Introd. i. Physical Features and Scenery — Climate. xi The Tarns , or small lakes, are not only beautiful in themselves, but possess an important function in the drainage of the county. If the rain which annually falls upon the mountains in this stormy region were precipitated at once into the valleys, they would be constantly subject to the most disastrous inundations. The tarns, by receiving the water as it rushes down the mountain-sides, both equalise its flow and serve as reservoirs from which emanate streams of inestimable value to agriculture during the not unfrequent droughts of spring. They generally lie deep, black, and still, at the feet of lofty precipices, and in the midst of scenery of singular wildness and grandeur. Ghylls are streams broken into cascades, and flowing through deep gorges, ravines, or clefts, and generally fringed by overhanging wood or copse. Few scenes are more impressive than these gloomy recesses among the hills. The general name throughout the district for a waterfall is “ force,” a term which is probably derived from the old Norse /orsa, to rush furiously. Although the waterfalls are not, as a rule, very lofty, many of them, such as Stanley Ghyll, in Eskdale ; Ara Force, in Gowbarrow Park, Ullswater ; Lodore Fall, in Borrowdale ; and Stock Ghyll Force, near Ambleside, are eminently picturesque ; but they all owe no small portion of their attractions to their accessories, the colours and forms of the rocks and the masses of foliage, which “half admit and half exclude the day.” In very rare instances do these falls present an object of striking interest except after heavy rain, when they rival, if not in magnificence, certainly in beauty, some of the most celebrated in Switzerland. Many of the rivers of Westmorland and Cumberland lie out of the ordinary track of tourists, and are therefore not so well known as they deserve to be. The Lune, the Eamont, the Eden, the Croglin, the Lowther, the Calder, the Esk, the Derwent, and the Cocker, all possess scenery on their banks of a very high order. The banks of the Eden are finely wooded, and its tributary, the Croglin, is perhaps unrivalled in England for the gloomy grandeur of the ravine through which it flows. Climate . — The excessive wetness of the Lake district has been con- sidered the great drawback from the pleasure to be derived from visiting it. The rainfall certainly exceeds that of any other part of England, At Keswick, in 1863, upwards of 71 in. of rain fell ; at Ambleside. 81 ; at Coniston, 83 ; while at Seathwaite, under Scawfell, the fall reached the enormous amount of 173’84. It may, nevertheless, be doubted whether, without this great amount of moisture, the Lake district of England would be anything but a desolate waste. The climate, although wet, is not damp. The quick evaporation after heavy rain produces a remarkable clearness of the air, and, as a consequence, the roads are speedily dry. The clouds are not self-generated, as in countries the soil of which is saturated with moisture ; they are sea-born, and, having been attracted by the mountains, pour down their contents often in heavy floods, which are, however, rapidly carried off by a thousand rills and streams into the lakes and the sea. The prevailing formation li. Geology . IntrocL Xll is a slaty rock, very slightly covered, except in the valleys, with a light friable soil, which, without these abundant supplies of rain, would be wholly unproductive. The district is certainly in a high degree salubrious. 44 The air,” says Drayton, 44 is piercing, and of a sharp temperature, and would be more biting but for the high hills, which break off the northern storms and cold falling snow. Notwithstanding, rich is this province, and with great varieties of commodities is replenished; the lofty hills, though rough, yet smile upon their beholders, spread with sheep and cattle ; the valleys stored with grass and corn sufficient; the sea affordeth great store of fish, and the land is overspread with great variety of fowles.” The district has long been associated with a school of poetry known as that of the Lakes, but one — one only — has lavished on it all the prodigality of his peculiar genius. There is scarcely a crag, mountain, ghyll, waterfall, lake, or tarn, that does not derive an additional charm from the interest which Wordsworth has thrown around it ; and his poetry can only be duly appreciated when read amidst the scenery which inspired it. 44 No poet ever more completely imbibed the spirit of a peculiar scenery to breathe it out again in his verse.” * II. Geology. The geology of Westmorland and Cumberland has yet been only partially investigated, the Government survey not having yet extended to those counties ; but the researches of those eminent geologists, Pro- fessors Sedgwick and Phillips, have thrown much light on the very complicated phenomena of this region. To the publications of those gentlemen the editor is chiefly indebted for the following condensed account of the principal geological characteristics of the mountains and lake basins of the district : — These counties in their geological aspect constitute a region not very dissimilar to N. Wales, where the oldest sedimentary rocks have been protruded from below, and raised from a horizontal to a highly- inclined, and, in some places, a perpendicular position. The principal mountain masses are composed of primitive strata ruptured and tilted up on their edges ; but on their flanks rest much later deposits, lying unconformably, thus proving their origin to have been more recent. Ample evidence is everywhere to be met with of the prevalence, at some remote period, of very extensive igneous action. Porphyry dykes are numerous. Granite has in many places risen in a fluid state from the base of the upper division of the slate formation, and has upheaved and metamorphosed the superincumbent rocks. Much * A pleasing work, ‘The English Lakes, Mountains, and Waterfalls, as seen by William Wordsworth, Photographically Illustrated/ has been published by Mr. Bennett, Bishopsgate- street Without. Introd. II. Geology . xiii of the igneous rock thus ejected has, in a subsequent age, been dis- jDersed over a wide region by glacial action or by floods. Boulders of granite and porphyry have been thus transported in one direction as far as the coast of Yorkshire ; vast blocks are to be seen, several hundred feet above the level of the plain of the Eden, resting upon the steep sides of the great ridge of Cross Fell, and they have even travelled down through the valley of the Kent, so far as Morecamb Bay ; others may be seen in the bed of the river Caldew, near the N.E. side of Skid daw, and in the river Greta, between Skiddaw and Blencathra. Geologists, however, are not agreed on the causes which have produced this disper- sion of granitic boulders over so extensive an area, but glacial action seems the most probable. The granite of the Lake district is generally of grey colour, and is traversed by numerous veins of quartz ; but other varieties of granite, one characterised by the presence of red felspar, are also met with. The calcareous rocks which almost surround the Lake district and over- lap the bases of many of the mountains, are of course of more recent origin than the slate which they overlie, but they are frequently separated from the slate by masses of conglomerate or cemented shingle, the debris of the slaty mountains before they were encircled by a calcareous sea. The line of separation between the limestone and the granite is always distinguished by an intermediate zone, consisting of water- worn pebbles, breccias, and mica. The overlying limestone, like the primitive rock upon which it rests, has also, at a later period, been uplifted, rent asunder, and worn down by atmospheric action into its existing forms. There is a new red sandstone formation of a still later date than the limestone. It fills the whole of the lower part of the basin of the Eden from Brough to the shores of the Solway Frith. At Maryport it is interrupted by the coal-measures, but it reappears at St. Bees Head, and strikes along the coast as far as the estuary of the Duddon and district of Furness. This formation may also be seen in quarries near Carlisle, in the ravines below Furness Abbey, and on the banks of the Calder. Beds of new red sandstone rest on the carboniferous rocks from Kirkby- Stephen to Maryport, and, after spreading out on both sides of the Eden, they abut against the great ridge of Cross Fell. From beneath the red sandstone rises, in several places, magnesian limestone of considerable thickness. Coal-fields . — •“ The zone of carboniferous rocks which wraps round the northern flanks of the Cumberland mountains is surmounted by the rich coal-fields of Whitehaven, Workington, and Maryport. Between this last town on the 1ST., and St. Bees Head on the S., it stretches along the Irish Sea, and extends inwards for a distance of 5 m., in which direction the beds rise and crop out. From Maryport the coal-field extends E. to Bolton. Its total length is about 20 m., and greatest width at Workington about 5 m.” — Hull , on the Coal-fields of Great Britain . This coal-field may be separated into 2 divisions, the upper containing the great main band, the lower containing 4 or 5 workable beds, but of inferior quality. The united thickness of these X1Y ii. Geology \ Introd. 2 divisions is not less than 2000 ft. The coal varies much, both in thickness and quality, but many of the beds have been long profitably worked. There is a small coal-field immediately S. of Workington, but in consequence of an enormous upset-fault the beds are thrown out, and the lower division is brought into the cliff. “ The coal forms an extensive plateau, stretching from Harrington to the hills N. of Moresby, 2J m. from the harbour of Whitehaven. Near the crown of these hills another great fault, producing a downcast to the S.W. of not less than 1000 ft., brings in the rich upper division of the coal-field. Between this great fault and the village of Parton the beds dip to the E., so that all those which are below high-water mark necessarily crop out under the sea. The result is that the coal cannot be worked in consequence of the sea- water which finds its way along the places of dip. At Parton there are other considerable dislocations producing a reversed dip, by which the whole series of coal-measures extending to St. Bees Head are made to incline to the S.W. at a small angle of inclination. The strata, therefore, have their outcrop inland. The coal-seams are thus perfectly protected from the sea-water, and scarcely any limit can be assigned to the possible workings under the sea in this direction.” The Limestone formation is in some places 1000 or 1200 ft. thick, alternating with shale sandstone and thin beds of coal. The great Scar limestone is almost entirely made up of animal remains, of corals and shells, and must, in the opinion of Professor Sedgwick, have once stretched far among shores and shoals, which, although long oblite- rated, were the first rudiments of the British Isles. During this period the Scar limestone formed a coral reef encircling the cluster of the Lake mountains, and it may be traced uninterruptedly for the greater part of their circumference. On the S. limits of the district this great reef was, at some remote period, shattered by faults and breaks, which gradually expanded into the existing valleys ; but all the great depositions of limestone were, Professor Sedgwick conceives, once united, and formed a single bed. Slate . — Nearly all the mountains of these counties are of this forma- tion. In their upper series the slate rocks stretch from the S.E. of Cumberland through the head of Coniston and Windermere Lakes to Shap Fells, and S. through Furness Fells and a considerable portion of Westmorland. The whole of this formation belongs to the upper Silurian system, and exhibits generally the same fossils. The highest parts of the mountains are often composed of green slate and porphyry, which are piled one upon another in tabular masses of such regularity that they must be regarded as the effects of two distinct forces acting during a long geological period. No organic remains are found in these rocks, the aqueous deposits having, it is supposed, been too frequently disturbed to permit the growth of corals and shells. The general forms impressed upon the lake mountains were undoubtedly given to them at the time when the strata of which they consist were first elevated and rent asunder by subterranean forces ; the rudiments of the existing valleys were then formed ; but that the mountain-groups have been since In trod. XV li. Geology . repeatedly shaken by tremendous convulsions is evident from their numerous faults, fissures, and dislocations; their sides and bases too have been often swept by denuding currents ; an icy sea subsequently settled round them, and vast masses of primitive rock were detached and transported from one hill-top to another. The principal valleys diverge from a centre near the summit of Scawfell. The fractures and contortions occasioned by the eruption of igneous matter may be well studied in the neighbourhood of this mountain, which appears to have been the centre of the disturbing force, or the axis of elevation. At Kirkfell, near Wastdale Head, the mountain has been absolutely rent asunder from top to bottom, and an enormous mass of granitic porphyry protruded into the fissure. There is scarcely a valley in the Lake district which does not bear the marks of glacial action ; the harder rocks, if covered up, are, when exposed to view, generally found scratched and grooved in nearly parallel lines ; and transported heaps of stones (moraines) and enormous beds of drift are of frequent occurrence. The tops of some of the mountains have been worn down simply by the cor- roding influence of time ; and their once jagged peaks are now covered with heather and gorse, as in the beautiful group between Derwent- water and Crummock. Others, from the comparative hardness of their rock, have effectually resisted the action of the elements, and their rugged tops possess probably nearly the same outline as when they first emerged from the sea. In those composed of schist, the softness of the material has generally caused an equal slope on both sides, and. there is scarcely any mountain or group of mountains in the district which does not present a gentle declivity on one side or the other. The slaty rocks are generally of a dark colour, and divide by natural partings into slabs of various thickness ; but the strata are sometimes curiously contorted, from having been subjected, while in a plastic state, to strong lateral pressure. The two highest mountains of the district, Scawfell and Helvellyn, as well as the Old Man at Coniston, are of a bluish or grey-coloured slate. The fine pale blue roofing-slate occurs often in beds or veins. The changes which this region has undergone, and the aspects which it must have presented during its different geological epochs, are thus interestingly described by Professor Sedgwick : — “1. Beds of marl and sand were deposited in an ancient sea, appa- rently without the calcareous matter necessary to the life of shells and corals, and without any traces of organic forms. These were the ele- ments of the Skiddaw slate. “ 2. Plutonic rocks were then for many ages poured out among the aqueous sedimentary beds which were broken up and recemented. Plutonic silt and other materials in the finest comminution were deposited along with the igneous rocks, the effects were again and again repeated till a deep sea was filled with a formation many thousand feet in thickness. These were the materials of the middle division of the Cumbrian slates. xvi ii. Geology . Introd. 44 3. A period of comparative repose followed. Beds of shells and bands of corals formed upon the more ancient rocks ; they were inter- rupted by beds of sand and mud, and these processes were many times repeated ; and thus, in a long succession of ages, were the deposits of the upper slates completed. 44 4. Towards the end of the preceding period mountain masses of Plutonic rock were pushed through the older deposits, and after many revolutions all the divisions of the slate series were elevated and con- torted by movements not affecting the newer formations. 44 5. The conglomerates of the old red sandstone were then spread out, by the beating of an ancient surf, continued for many ages, upon the upheaved and broken edges of the slates. 44 6. Again occurred a period of comparative repose ; the coral reefs of the mountain limestone and the whole carboniferous series were formed, but not without many great oscillations between the levels of land and sea. 44 7. An age of disruption and violence succeeded, marked by the discordant position of the rock, and by the conglomerates under the new red sandstone. At the beginning of that time was formed the great N. and S, 4 Craven fault,’ which rent off the eastern calcareous mountains from the older slates ; and soon afterwards the great 4 Pennine fault,’ ranging from the foot of Stainmoor to the coast of Northumberland, and lifting up the terrace of Cross Fell above the plain of the Eden. Some of the N. and S. fissures (shown by the directions of the valleys lead- ing into Morecamb Bay) may have been formed about the same time ; others must have taken place at later periods. 44 8. Afterwards ensued the more tranquil period of the new red sand- stone ; but here our records, on the skirts of the lake mountains, fail us, and we have to seek them in other countries. 44 9. Thousands of ages rolled away during the secondary and tertiary epochs. Of those times we have no monuments in Cumberland. But the powers of Nature are never in aepose ; her work never stands still. Many a fissure may in those days have started into an open chasm, and many a valley been scooped out upon the lines of 4 fault.’ 44 10. Close to the historic time, we have proofs of new disruption and violence, and of vast changes of level between land and sea. Ancient valleys may have been opened out anew, and fresh valleys formed by such great movements in the oceanic level. Cracks among the strata may, during this period, have passed into open fissures ; vertical escarp- ments have been formed by unequal elevations on the sides of the lines of fault ; and subsidences have given rise to many tarns and lakes. The face of Nature may, therefore, have been greatly changed while the land was settling to its present level.” In effecting these last changes the ice of the glacial period has played no inconsiderable part. 44 The mountains of Cumberland and West- morland and the English Lake district,” says Sir C. Lyell (. Antiquity of Man , p. 269, edit. 1863), 44 afford equally unequivocal evidences of ice-action ” (with the mountains of Scotland and Wales), 44 not only Iii trod. ii . Geology. XYll in the form of polished and grooved surfaces, hut also of those rounded bosses before mentioned as so abundant in the Alpine valleys of Switzerland, where glaciers exist or have existed.” Of the latter class of rocks, “ roches moutonnees ,” there are several in the meadows by the Eothay, near Ambleside. A very tine one also occurs at the western end of Grange Bridge in Borrowdale. In the same dale, about a mile above Grange, a spur of the Castle Crag, forming one of the jaws of the defile which the Derwent there enters, stands out from the woody hill-side a mass of bare smooth rock, and affords a striking example of the “ polished grooved surfaces characteristic of valleys where glaciers exist or have existed.” And while this rock bears silent witness to the grinding and abrading power of the ancient glacier, its transporting agency is as forcibly attested by the well-known Bowder Stone ; which, borne on the ice-stream to its present site, was stranded there, and left a monument of the frozen deluge which once flooded the valley. Other vestiges of the glacial period are the ancient moraines which may be traced in most dales as gently swelling slopes of rounded out- line, abutting against the steep escarpment of the hills, sometimes, as immediately to the west of Grange in Borrowdale, rising into grassy hills of considerable height ; sometimes, as in upper Borrowdale, between Seatoller and Seath waite, forming a natural terrace, where patches of rich woodland alternating with grassy glades contrast charmingly with the stern crags above them. Wherever a section of these smooth slopes is laid open they are seen to consist of earth or sand confusedly interspersed with stones of every size, from that of a large cannon-ball to mere pebbles, generally quite devoid of stratification. In the higher combes, once the homes of glaciers, the well-heads, so to speak, of the ice-streams, and near the heads of the dales which run up to the principal mountain chains, great grassy mounds, often studded with large boulders, stretch one within another across the dale or combe, and mark the successive points where the retreating glacier turned to bay, and for a while held its own against the increasing warmth of the climate. The barrier at the lower end of Hayes Water is probably an ancient terminal moraine. In a combe under Glaramara, which now sends a small beck to join the Derwent between Stonethwaite and Sea- toller, may be seen three terminal moraines. In Deepdale such moraines are on an unusually grand scale. And here we can track the receding glacier down to its decrepit old age, when the twin streams of ice issuing from its combe on either side of the Hart Crag could no longer unite in the form of ice, but on reaching the dale had to drop their loads separately, and run as simple brooks to Patterdale. The glacial vestiges in the Lake district may be classified under two heads : — 1. Those valleys which have been channels both for floating ice and glaciers. 2. Those which have been occupied by glaciers only. The valley of the Eothay between Ambleside and Grasmere contains XYiii II. Geology . Introd. numerous rocks with grooved surfaces attributable to the action of ice floating down the valley when it was a channel occupied by a glacial sea. From the head of Windermere the grooved surfaces are continued into the valley of the Kothay, and rise on its flank to the height of about 400 feet above the level of the river, as may be seen along the road to Kirkstone Pass from Ambleside. All along the alluvial bed of the valley from Ambleside, to a considerable distance beyond Grasmere, examples of well-formed roches moutonnees are both numerous and striking. On one of these ice-worn bosses, fluted and grooved with striations ranging due south, the new church of Ambleside has been erected, and grouped around it are numerous fine examples, which when viewed sideways appear as prostrate cones or wedges pointing up the valley, or nearly north, thus proving the movement of the ice to have been from north to south, and generally the striations are parallel to the longitudinal axis of the valley. Several fine examples of roches moutonnees occur above Grasmere, lying as cones or inclined planes, with their apices pointing up the valley ; and if we enter Easdale and examine the surfaces of the rocks on both sides of the valley along the western flank of Helm Crag, it is impossible not to be struck with the ice- moulded forms which they assume up to an elevation of 1000 feet. In Great Langdale the glaciated aspect of the rocks is very con- spicuous, especially along the flank of Skelwith Fell. About half a mile from Brathay church on the Coniston road the surface of the “ Coniston flags ” has been bared for several yards, and exhibits a system of parallel flu tings and striations ranging S.S.E. The chloritic slates which form the flanks of Great Langdale along the northern shore of Elter Water are remarkably ice-moulded and grooved to an elevation of 650 feet above the lake. Along the bottom of the valley roches mou- tonnees protrude, and boulders are abundantly strewn over the surface. The strise range E. 10° S. in the line of the axis of the valley. At the village of Langdale ice-moulded, polished, and fluted surfaces are remark- ably fresh. The oval and generally glaciated surfaces are sufficiently evident in the bedded porphyry above the village, but the fine groovings and striations are seldom exhibited. The glacial evidences of this valley are thought to be attributable to the action of icebergs floating down it, when it was filled by an arm of the sea to the height of about 1000 feet. There appears to have been some influence which constantly acted upon the ice, forcing it southward, for wh’ere the ice has held an easterly course it is due entirely to the elevation of the ridges which bound the valleys. If these influences were either prevalent north winds or currents of the sea, the glaciation of the valleys must have been pro- duced by floating ice up to a certain level. The flanks of Griesdale, one of the most remarkable gorges in the Lake district, having its source in the heart of Helvellyn, are ice-moulded up to an average elevation of 600 feet or more above the bed of the river. There are also remarkable examples of perched blocks of huge size, and well-defined, if not extensive, moraines. This valley has been InfcrocL hi. History , Antiquities , $c. xix the trough of a glacier at least three miles in length, with an average breadth of 400 yards, and, judging from the height of the polished sur- faces along the flank of the valley^ from 600 to 800 feet in depth. It is terminated by a moraine a quarter of a mile in length, through which the impetuous mountain torrent has hewn a channel, levelling the ground for a breadth of 100 yards. “The two great facts which the glacial evidences of the Lake district seem to point are, first, that the sea once stood at a level suffi- cient to float ice charged with boulders over ridges and hills which are now at an elevation of 800 to 900 feet ; and, secondly, that after the sea, had retired , glaciers descended the valleys as low as 500 feet above the present sea-level.” — Vestiges of Extinct Glaciers in the Lake Districts of Cumberland and Westmorland. 6 Edin. New Philosophic Journal, 5 1860. The mineral riches of Westmorland and Cumberland, although they cannot be compared with those of Cornwall or Devon, are considerable. Veins of copper and lead are found in several divisions of the lower slates. The lead-mines of Alston continue to be productive, but the celebrated black-lead (carburet of iron) mine of Borrowdale, which, after several abortive attempts to continue its working, has been finally abandoned, was for a long period a source of great prosperity to its owners. The iron-mines are more important and valuable than those of copper or lead. Those near Whitehaven and in the vicinity of Black Combe, and in the Furness peninsula, produce a red oxide of iron (haematite) of a very superior quality, which is exten- sively worked and smelted in the district, as well as largely shipped to Wales for mixing with the poorer ores of that country. It is found chiefly in the fissures and hollows of the carboniferous limestone. The iron-ore of Cumberland is said to produce more than double the quantity of metal obtained from the ordinary ores of Great Britain. III. — History, Antiquities, Castles, and Country Seats. 1. Westmorland and Cumberland, together with Northumberland, Durham, York, and Lancaster, formed the country of the Brigantes, which was conquered by the Bomans a.d. 121. The great Roman wall, which ran from Newcastle along the borders of Northumberland and Cumberland to the Solway Frith, was built to protect the country from the ravages of the Caledonians. A vallum or rampart of earth had been thrown up by Agricola, a.d. 81, but a wall of hewn stone was substi- tuted for it by the Emperor Hadrian. This was 8 feet in thickness and 12 feet in height, and entered Cumberland near a stream called Poltross- burn, about 2 miles from the station of Carvorran, in Northumberland. It then passed Burdoswald, Bank’s Head, Hare Hill (near Lanercost), Walton, Castle-steads, Drawdykes, Stanwix (where it crossed the Eden), Grimsdale, Burgh-upon- Sands, and Drumburgh, terminating at In trod. kx in. History , Antiquities , §c. Bowness on the Solway Frith. It has, to the lasting regret of anti- quaries, formed for centuries an inexhaustible quarry for the erection and repair of the churches, mansions, and fences in its vicinity. It was strengthened by a ditch, mile- towers, and a chain of strong forts, the remains of many of which still exist. After the relinquishment of Britain by the Romans, both Westmorland and Cumberland were devastated by the Piets, and the city of Carlisle was repeatedly reduced to ashes. These counties then had to endure the ravages of the Danes. That there is some intermixture of Danish blood with the original people of these counties is indisputable. The great stream of Northern adventurers which swept the E. coast of England appears to have consisted chiefly of Danes, but their descents were made principally on the Yorkshire shore, and from thence incursions were made into Cum- berland. The crosses and other antiquarian remains that are found in Cumberland and Westmoreland, prove that Danish colonies were permanently established in those counties. But the principal Scandi- navian colonization is supposed to have been not Danish but Norwegian, and to have occurred later than the raids of the Danes, for in Cumber- land and W estmorland Norwegian names are common, and among the mountains we find a nomenclature the origin of which seems to be purely Norwegian. The Scandinavian colonists of Cumberland did not, however, it has been thought, cross the island from the opposite coast of Northumber- land, but made their descent from the Isle of Man, which the North- men, having the command of the sea, had taken possession of ; and the nearest point of England from thence being Cumberland, it naturally attracted an adventurous people residing at so short a distance from its shores. This colonization of Cumberland is supposed to have taken place between the years a.d. 945 and 1000. The settlement was probably peacefully effected, for the scanty population of Cumberland must have been defenceless against such bold intruders, who had only to think of clearing for themselves homes amidst the forests, and pro- tecting them with fences ; for the little enclosures provincially termed “thwaites,” “seats,” and “garths,” have unquestionably a Scandi- navian derivation. There are also clear indications in some of the physical and moral characteristics of the existing inhabitants, as well as in their traditions, that there must have been at some period a considerable intermixture of races. The men, more especially in the mountain districts, are generally taller than those of other parts of England, and, like the people of Norway, are remarkable for the lightness of their hair ; and any one who has travelled in Cumberland cannot fail to have been struck by the groups of fair-haired children in the villages, particularly of the mountain districts. The sturdy independence and remarkable shrewdness of character are doubtless also derived from the same source. In Norway there is a class of small proprietors called “ Odals- men,” from which the Cumberland term “dalesmen” is probably derived. Many names of places are derived from the sepulchral In trod. hi . History , Antiquities , xxi stones of Scandinavian chiefs. Thus we have Eavenstone Dale, or the valley of the memorial stone of Eafn ; Alston, Dalton, Ulvestone, Spunton, Thorney stone, Anglestone, Hilderstone, Mainesstone, Stoney- stone, Stamerstone, and Otterstone, derived from the proper names of Ali, Dalla, Ulfar, Sporr, Thorney, Angel, Hildar, Mar, Steene, Stinar, and Otter ; all probably chiefs more or less eminent in their day, and who obtained a local celebrity by reason of their virtues or their exploits. The name of Cumberland is probably derived from its having been the residence of the Cymri, the ancient British inhabitants, a remnant of the Celtic race which preserved its nationality in this corner of the island after the rest of England had submitted to Saxon sway ; and it is a remarkable fact that the hills and plains of Cumber- land and Westmorland possess a far greater number of Druidical remains than the contiguous counties of Northumberland and Durham, or indeed than any other part of England of the same extent, although this may be partially owing to the abundance of stone which these counties contain presenting greater facilities for the construction of temples. Traces of the worship of Baal still linger in the district. The rites were celebrated on the tops of mountains, from which the rising sun could be earliest discerned. The ancient Britons not only made their children “ pass through fire unto Baal,” but were accus- tomed to drive their flocks and herds through it to preserve them from evil during the remainder of the year. A few of the places where the bloody sacrifices to his honour were performed are known by tradition. “One of these is. supposed to be the gloomy valley of Glenderaterra, near Keswick. At Cumwhitton is a stone circle undoubtedly druidical in its character, and probably used in the service of Baal. Both at Keswick and Cumwhitton the festival of the Beltein, or the fire of Baal, was until lately celebrated on the first of May. Indeed in some of the mountain valleys it is still the custom, when any of the cattle are seized with distempers, to light the ‘need fire,’* and drive them through the flames. There are certainly only faint traces of a Celtic origin in the physical and moral characteristics of the present inhabitants of these counties ; nor does their dialect possess any but the slightest analogy to the language of the ancient Britons ; although some of the places, as in other parts of England, derive their names from the Celtic. In the mountain districts, however, where ancient names are supposed to linger longer than elsewhere, the number of such names is very small.” — ( Ferguson's e Northmen of Cumberland $c.) The most authentic record of the Cumberland Britons is that of their final defeat, a.d. 945, by the Saxon King Edmund, who gave Cumberland to Malcolm King of Scotland, to hold in fealty. For some time prior to its extirpation this small mountain tribe was probably all that remained of their former political organiza- tion, and it was pent up within the almost inaccessible mountains of Cumberland and Westmorland. Like the Scottish Highlanders, these * From the Danish nod, i.e. cattle. xxii nr. History , Antiquities, §c. Introd. wild and lawless men poured down from time to time upon the neighbouring plains, revenging themselves by their inroads upon the usurpers of their native soil, but, when menaced by a superior force, again retreating to their fastnesses. The last struggle of the Celtic race for independence is supposed to have been made on Dunmail Eaise, a pass between Grasmere and Keswick, where King Edmund, having marched against the remnant of the Cumberland Britons, found them posted under their chief Dunmail. He assailed them in that their chosen position, in front and rear, and defeated them in a bloody and decisive engagement. Dunmail himself was slain, and his two sons taken prisoners. A rude heap of stones, at the top of the pass over which the excellent coach-road to Keswick now runs, marks, according to tradition, the identical spot where the last of the British kings of Cumberland fell. During the Saxon heptarchy these counties formed a part of the king- dom of Northumberland. Cumberland was finally ceded to Malcolm King of Scotland, and it afterwards became the frequent seat of war be- tween the two crowns. At the Conquest it had been reduced to such a state of desolation that William remitted all taxes, and it was not rated in Domesday Book. In 1239 Cumberland was finally annexed to the crown of England by Henry III. ; but the feuds between the two countries continued for more than three centuries, and Cumberland and West- morland were the scenes of frequent bloodshed. Both counties were grievously harassed by the raids of Scottish mosstroopers, who for more than two centuries kept the inhabitants in a state of continual terror, for neither their lives nor their property were safe for a day. A special force was organized for repelling the inroads of the Scots, called the Border Service, which was distinct from the general military service of the realm. _ The military tenants of the Border Marches were required not only to provide horses and men for the service, but dogs, — bloodhounds, called provincially slough-dogs, from the term slot, sleugli, or slouth, i.e. the track or scent of an animal. They were in common use as late as the year 1616. On a general muster in the reign of Elizabeth of the whole able-bodied male population of Westmorland and Cumberland between the ages of 16 and 60 for repelling a Border invasion, the united force amounted to 18,072 men. The Border wars have left traces upon these counties which are not yet effaced. “ Before the union of the two British crowns, and long after that union, there was as great difference between Middlesex and Cumberland as there now is between Massachusetts and the settlements of those squatters who, far to the west of the Mississippi, administer a rude justice with the rifle and the dagger. The magistrates of Cumberland and Northumber- land were authorised to raise bands of armed men for the defence of property and order, and provision was made for meeting the expense of those levies by local taxation. The parishes were required to keep bloodhounds for the purpose of hunting the freebooters. Many old men, who were living in the middle of the eighteenth century, could well remember the time when these ferocious dogs were common. Introd. hi. History , Antiquities , fyc. xxiii Yet even with such auxiliaries it was often found impossible to track the robbers to their retreats among the hills and morasses; for the geography of that wild country was very imperfectly known. Even after the accession of George the Third the path over the fells from Borrowdale to Ravenglas was still a secret carefully kept by the dales- men, some of whom had probably in their youth escaped from the pursuit of justice by that road. The ^ seats of the gentry, and the larger farmhouses, were fortified. Oxen were penned at night beneath the overhanging battlements of the residence, which was known by the name of the Peel. The inmates slept with arms at their sides. Huge stones and boiling water were in readiness to crush and scald the plunderer who might venture to assail the little garrison. No traveller ventured into that country without making his will. The judges on circuit, with the whole body of barristers, attorneys, clerks, and serving- men, rode on horseback from Newcastle to Carlisle armed and escorted by a strong guard under the command of the sheriffs. It was necessary to carry provisions ; for the country was a wilderness which afforded no supplies. The spot where the cavalcade halted to dine, under an immense oak, is not yet forgotten. The irregular vigour with which criminal justice was administered shocked observers whose life had been passed in more tranquil districts. Juries, animated by hatred, and by a sense of common danger, convicted housebreakers and cattle-stealers with the promptitude of a court-martial in a mutiny ; and the convicts were hurried by scores to the gallows.” — Macaulay’s ‘ History of Eng- land’ vol. i. Although these counties were kept in a state of constant disturbance by the Border wars, there are few or no traces left in the character of the people of the long social disorganization. No counties in England proved their loyalty to the principles of the Revolution of 1688 in a more decisive manner than Westmorland and Cumberland. In 1745 the inhabitants, although unarmed, rose in great numbers, and harassed the troops of the Pretender in their retreat, taking a great many prisoners. During the advance of the Duke of Cumberland's army to the N., and when the troops were fatigued by forced marches, and scarcely allowed time to cook their meals, the gentlemen and yeomanry, or “ statesmen,” assembled on the roadsides and supplied the soldiers with the best that their larders and cellars contained, walking with them afterwards for considerable distances and carrying their arms. The Duke of Cumberland was so pleased with these manifestations of loyalty, that he procured for the landowners on his return to London a fixed and perpetual settlement of the land-tax. 2. JDruidical Remains. — * MayborougJi, a remarkable enclosure near Penrith, formed of loose stones heaped together; a Circle 2 m. from Keswick ; another, of great interest and in a very perfect state, 7 m. N.E. of Penrith, called *Long Meg and her Daughters; a remarkable upright stone, called Helton Copstone , on the waste near Helton, be- tween the rivers Lowther and Eamont ; a Circle, 21 yards in diameter, called the *Cock Stones, at the head of Ellersbeck, in the neigh- xxiv ill. History, Antiquities , $c. In trod. bourhood of Ullswater ; and a Circle at the foot of Black Combe, near the river Dnddon. Homan Bemo.ins . — No comities in England, excepting, perhaps, North- umberland, have produced so many objects of antiquarian interest as W estmorland and Cumberland. The principal places where the remains of camps and stations may still be seen are *Birdoswald, *Bewcastle, *Burgh- on-the-Sands, Drumburgh, Netherby oil the Esk, Stanwix near Carlisle ; Papcastle on the Derwent, Bowness on the Solway Frith, Old Carlisle near Wigton, Plumpton near Penrith, Moresby, Maryport, Amble- side, Little Langdale, and Hardknot in Eskdale. The Eoman Wall, although not so complete as on its E. portion, may be still distinctly traced in Cumberland. The stonework is in many places even more perfect than in Northumberland. “ The stones are rather larger than in the other portions of the wall, a thickness of 12 inches not being uncommon, with a corresponding breadth ; the blocks of the N. face also are not unfrequently larger than those of the S. The stations appear to have been built before the wall, and, as the necessity of the case required that they should be run up as quickly as possible, a smaller class of stones was used than was permitted in the wall itself. The workmanship is also of inferior quality.” — Bruce , on the Boman Wall. The places where the remains of the wall may be best seen are in the neighbourhood of Gilsland Spa, near Lanercost Priory, and towards its termination on the Solway Frith. Even where the larger stones have, as is often the case, been removed and the earth levelled, the course of the wall may be almost always discovered by the existence of rubble and loose stones turned up by the plough in the course of cultivation. Abbeys . — The remains, although not numerous, are interesting. *Calder Abbey and **Furness Abbey, in the Ulverston district, are beautiful ruins ; Shap Abbey has some interesting features ; and *Lanercost Priory retains traces of its former magnificence. There were many monasteries and ancient hospitals in these counties. The Augustine monks had a priory at Carlisle. The Benedictines had priories at Wetheral, Nunnery, St. Bees, and Seaton. The Cistercians had an abbey at Holme Cultram and another at Calder. There were other religious houses at Carlisle and Dacre. Churches . — Westmorland and Cumberland are not rich in eccle- siastical architecture ; indeed, most of the parish churches are hideous, but a few will repay a visit; these are noticed in the Poutes. A few exhibit interesting remains of the early Norman and Transition styles. The churches of *Burgh-on-the-Sands, Newton Arlosh, and *Great Salkeld have strongly fortified towers, which served as places of refuge for the inhabitants in times of danger. *Cartmel Priory Ch. surpasses all others in this neighbourhood, in variety and beauty of styles and antique monuments. Castles . — Eemains of mediaeval and Border castles may be seen at *Carlisle, Bewcastle, Drumburgh, *Naworth, Penrith, Dacre, Cocker- mouth, Egremont, and Kirk-Oswald in Cumberland; at Appleby, IntrocL iv. Social Aspect. XXV Sizergh, Brough, *Brougham, Pendragon, Wharton, Hartley, Lam- merside, and Kendal Castles in Westmorland. Most of these are in various stages of decay ; but Naworth has been restored ; and Cocker- mouth, Appleby, and Sizergh have received modern additions, and are occupied as mansions ; Drumburgh, Lacre, and Hartley have been con- verted into farmhouses. The Furness district contains the remains of 3 castles — Millom, Peel, and Gleaston. Millom is partly converted into a farmhouse; Peel and Gleaston are in ruins. The Peel Castles or Border forts, of which many remain, but generally in a state of decay, are interesting records of a former state of society. Country Seats . — The most important in Westmorland are Lowther Castle, a magnificent modern edifice in the Gothic style ; *Brougham Hall ; Patterdale Hall ; *Levens Hall, a curious old manorhouse of the 16th century ; Dalham Tower, near Milnthorp ; and Storrs Hall and Wray Castle on the banks of Windermere. In Cumberland , Bose Castle, the Palace of the Bishops of Carlisle, Corby Castle, Netherby, Crofton Hall, Greystock Castle, Eden Hall, Armathwaite Hall, Irton Hall, and Mun caster Castle. In the Furness and Ulverston district, *Holker Hall, Conishead Priory, and Bardsey Hall. Lowther Castle, Corby Castle, *Naworth, Greystock Castle, Eden Hall, Brougham Hall, Ponsonby Hall, Muncaster Castle, Storrs Hall, and Holker Hall possess collections of pictures, of which those of *Lowther Castle (the Earl of Lonsdale) and *Holker Hall (the Luke of Devonshire) are of the highest character. IV. — Social Aspect. Westmorland and Cumberland were probably the last portions of England which were enclosed and cultivated. The Bomans appear to have had little intercourse with the mountainous districts, where they contented themselves with establishing a few military posts. The valleys, too, must in those days have been almost impassable from the dense growth of underwood, and the whole district was necessarily very sparsely peopled. It was the policy in the feudal age of the proprietors of these counties to encourage as much as possible the subdivision of the land, in order to increase the number of their retainers, and to enable them to bring into the field as large a force as possible for the Border wars. The enfranchisement of villeins thus became a common practice, and every encouragement was given to enclose the mountain wastes. The stone walls, which are seen extending sometimes almost to the sum- mits of the hills, but certainly not contributing to their beauty, are supposed to have originally indicated the boundaries of small properties. In no part of England has the subdivision of the land into small estates been carried to so great an extent, but the Border wars which harassed the two counties left them in a very backward condition, \Westm. & Cumb.] b xxvi iy. Social Aspect . In trod. socially and economically. A hundred years ago there were very few roads ; all traffic was carried on by packhorses, and the country is still intersected by innumerable narrow lanes, the ancient thoroughfares of the district. The first turnpike-road which connected Kendal with the northern portion of Westmorland was made in 1752, and before that period 200 packhorses were constantly employed in the trade of the town. A stage-coach, called the Fly, first commenced running over Stainmoor, from London to Glasgow, in 1774. Wool was spun in every household, and converted into simple clothing. The Westmorland and Cumber- land “ statesmen,” or small landed proprietors, still retain the manners inherited from their forefathers, strongly indicative of a sturdy inde- pendence, and not without a considerable tincture of pride. Many of the Cumberland yeomen still wear a plain homespun grey cloth, hence their name of “ grey coats ; ” but the number of “ statesmen,” both in Cumberland and Westmorland, has been long gradually diminishing. ^Railways, as in other parts of England, have effected a great social revolution in these counties. The “ statesmen ” have found themselves exposed to competition which they never expected ; they have become embarrassed, and have been too often obliged to sell the land which had belonged to their ancestors for generations, The tendency now is towards the accumulation of land in the hands of large proprietors, and the gradual extinction of a class of men whom the progress of society is fast consigning to the traditions of the past. The state of the country is undergoing a rapid change, but many old customs yet survive among the peasantry. The farmhouses are generally very ancient, and their interior economy has been but little changed by time. They are generally built of stone with very thick walls, and are either thatched or covered with coarse blue slate. The floor of slate is kept scrupu- lously clean, and is ornamented by scroll-work done with red and yellow ochre or chalk, according to the taste of the inmates. The great oaken beams are generally polished, and bright brass and mahogany often decorate the kitchen. The people in Westmorland and Cumberland are in fact “ house proud.” The furniture generally consists of a long oaken table with a bench on each side, where the whole family, master, children, and servants, take their meals to- gether. On one side of the fireplace is generally a seat about six feet long, called the long settle, its back often curiously carved, and a chest with two or three divisions. At the other side of the fireplace is the sconce, a sort of fixed bench, under which one night’s elden , or fuel, is deposited every evening. The chairs are generally of oak with high arms, and carved on the backs. The bedsteads are also of oak with carved testers. The clothing of the family was formerly made from wool spun from the native fleece, and of linen made from the flax which was grown on almost every farm ; the “ hemp ridge ” in fields still bears its name, although its origin may have been for- gotten. Clogs, or wooden-soled shoes, well adapted to a mountainous and rainy country, continue in common use. These counties being unfavourable to the production of wheat, oats IntrocL I\ r . Social Aspect. xxxii and barley are the principal cereals. The barley grown on the small estates was formerly made into malt, and each family brewed its own ale. Wheaten bread, now common, was only nsed on particular occasions. Small loaves were once given to persons invited to funerals, which they were expected to take home, and eat in remembrance of their departed neighbour. Until late years the use of wheaten bread was almost unknown in a great part of the district, particularly among the mountains. Cakes made of barley and called flat bread, and similar to the flad brod of Norway, are still in general use. They are also known by the name scons , a word which may be derived from the old Norse sTcan , a crust. The mountain cheese called whillimen , which is so tough that the Cumberland rustics have been facetiously said to shoe their clogs with its rind instead of iron, is an example of the simple and severe diet in which the mountaineers resemble the peasants of Norway ; and in that country, as in Cumberland and Westmorland, oatmeal porridge is an article of common consumption. At Christmas as many pies containing geese, mutton, and sweetmeats were made as would serve the family for a month. Christenings were celebrated with great festivities, and all the marriages were latedf i.e ., as the party returned from the church they had a race to the bridal house, where the victor was rewarded by a riband from the hand of the bride. Then followed leaping, wrestling, or running matches, in which the females joined. In their amusements the men of Cumberland and Westmorland strongly resemble some of the Northern nations. Their favourite diversion is wrestling, in which they excel the rest of England. The word as pronounced, russle, closely resembles the Norse rusla. Traces of the old sword-dance are still to be found at some of their merrymakings, particularly at Christmas. At the conclusion of a marriage-feast the bride sits in state, and the company cast money or household utensils into her lap to assist in setting the wedded couple up in the world. A Cumbrian girl, when her lover proves unfaithful, is still by way of consolation rubbed with pea- straw ; and when a Cumbrian youth is jilted, he has to submit to the same ceremony. Funerals are still associated with feasting ; visits of condolence are paid immediately after a death, and the corpse is “ watched ” until the day of burial. The “ Merry Night ” is one of the most popular institutions of the Westmorland and Cumberland peasantry, when dancing and feasting are kept up to a late hour. Wordsworth, in his ‘ Waggoner,’ has well described the rustic revelry of these festive meetings - " Blithe souls and lightsome hearts have we Feasting at the Cherry Tree! What bustling, jostling high and low 1 A universal overflow ! What tankards foaming from the tap, What store of cakes in every lap, What thumping, stumping overhead, The thunder had not been more busy ; xxviii IV. Social Aspect. Introd. With such a stir you could have said The little place may well he dizzy. ’Tis who can dance with greatest vigour, ’Tis what can be most prompt and eager ; — As if it heard the fiddle’s call, The pewter clatters on the wall ; The very bacon shows its feeling, Swinging from the smoky ceiling.” The music is generally that of the fiddle. At the conclusion of every dance the fiddler makes his instrument squeak out two notes that are understood to say, “ kiss her.” il The fiddle’s squeak, that call to bliss,' Ever followed by a kiss.” A command which every male dancer immediately obeys by giving his partner a salutation, the sound of which has been compared to that of the smart crack of a waggoner’s whip. Candlemas is still regarded as an important season, a general settlement of accounts taking place on that day. It was once celebrated as a great feast, and Candlemas cake is still remembered. Curling Sunday, or the second Sunday before Easter, has a peculiar celebration in these counties. In some districts peas fried in fat, and called curlings, are presented to visitors ; in others, undressed peas are carried in the pockets to throw at friends and acquaintances — a custom strongly resembling the flinging of sugar-plums during the Italian Carnival. Grood-Friday is religiously kept by blacksmiths, not one of whom will put a piece of iron in the fire on that day. The superstition is supposed to have some reference to the nails used in the Crucifixion. It was formerly a custom on that day to have ale-posset, with the addition of figs, called fig-sue. Easter is also ushered in by the “ pace-egging ” of children, who visit farm-houses, which have ready eggs boiled and coloured, and which are given away to all comers. The pace-eggers go about the country in bands, singing — “ Here ’s two or three jolly boys all in one mind, We’ve com’t a pace-egging, we hope you’ll prove kind ; We hope you’ll prove kind with your eggs and strong beer. And we’ll come no more nigh you until the next year.” Christmas festivities were once general in these counties, and every table groaned with a profusion of pies and puddings of all varieties. Ale- possets formed an especial part of these entertainments, and they were served to strangers for breakfast. The ale-posset still appears at the village feasts on “ Powsowdy-night,” and consists of ale boiled with bread, and seasoned with sugar and nutmeg. A few superstitions still linger in the district. Although the belief in giants and fairies has almost disappeared, that in boggles or ghosts is not uncommon. Witches are still supposed to exercise their malignant power over the objects of their antipathy, and a belief in the evil-eye, which was once very common, is not yet extinct. It was considered Introcl. IV. Social Aspect . xxix prudent to make a considerable detour on going from place to place* rather than incur the risk of meeting a person possessed of this supposed influence. These involuntary workers of evil, it is said, acknowledge their power and lament it, alleging it to be one over which they have no control. In the neighbourhood of Penrith an old man is still remembered* who, when he met the milkmaids returning from the field, never failed to warn them to “ cover up the milk,” saying, that if they did not he was not answerable for the consequences. A “statesman” still living has been heard to declare that he knew a witch, that he had fre- quently seen her house a blaze of fire illuminating the surrounding darkness, and that he had often hunted her in the form of a hare. People still occasionally declare that they have been bewitched, and a piece of red thread wound round a stick of mountain-ash is considered an effective preservative against a spell. Perforated stones for the pro- tection of horses are still seen in stables. Cross Fell, the highest part of the Pennine chain, was long supposed to be the abode of evil spirits, and was, for that reason, called Fiends Fell, until, according to tradition, a Christian missionary, who happened to come that way, boldly ascended the mountain and fixed a cross on its summit, whence it received its present name of Cross Fell. The simple, but somewhat rough, manners of the Westmorland and Cumbrian peasantry have not undergone any material change from their increased intercourse with the world ; and education has hitherto had but little effect in refining their tastes, elevating their character, or improving their morals. The domestic affections were, however, always strong ; and the ballads of the district abound in kindly and generous feeling. Westmorland and Cumberland have had their poets, who have illustrated the manners and customs of these counties in productions which, although of considerable merit, have never attained any wide-spread popularity. This is in a great degree owing to the strangeness of the dialect in which they are written, and which is now almost unintelligible to many even of the natives. The life of the people is nevertheless portrayed in these productions with a force and reality not to be surpassed. They belong chiefly to the last century ; and as the effect of southern intercourse is gradually to weaken the force of ancient traditions and modes of thought, they will probably not survive the existing generation, and the dialect will soon be as little spoken and understood as ancient Cornish. Few parts of England, 30 years ago, could rival Westmorland and Cumberland in cheapness of living, now little difference exists between these and other English counties. Sheep-farming is the great resource of the district. The Herdwick breed is peculiar to it. The charac- 1 teristics of this breed are grey faces, absence of horns, diminutive size, and remarkable power of endurance. The farmers, having a common right of pasture over the fells and mountains, are in the habit of overstocking the grazing-grounds, which would cause the starvation of any less hardy breed. According to tradition the Herdwick sheep were originally introduced by a Danish vessel having been ship xxx V. Travelling and Communications . Introd. wrecked on the coast ; but it is more likely that they were imported by Norwegian settlers. The merits of the breed have been summed up in the saying that they will “ stand starving better than any other sheep.” They prefer the highest parts of the hills in winter as in summer, and generally the most exposed sides of them, where the wind blows the snow off the surface of the ground, and are thus enabled to procure food which would be impossible in sheltered situa- tions. Sheep-shearing is carried on on a very primitive principle. No hired labour is employed in addition to that which belongs to the farm, but the statesmen assist one another, both personally and by their servants, going sometimes considerable distances for the purpose. No remuneration is expected but that which is paid in kind, and the work is thus got through in a manner satisfactory to all parties. There is little cereal production] in Westmorland, except oats, but excellent wheat is grown in some portions of Cumberland. V. — Travelling and Communications. The Lake district is encircled with and penetrated by railways* Within the iron circle are various coach-lines, the chief of which — the road from the Windermere station to Keswick — is traversed daily by mail and other coaches. From these main lines of com- munication the excursionist may penetrate to any part of the country he may select. The Lancaster and Furness Railway, which has been carried over the estuaries of the Kent and the Leven, and skirts the coast of Cumberland as far as Maryport, has made two of the most interesting but least known lakes, Wast water and Ennerdale, now easily accessible. This line has also opened up the district of Furness, previously little visited ; and by superseding the tedious an£ even dangerous coach-track across the sands, has made the approach to the Lake district in this direction very easy, and there does not exist in England a more beautiful combination of wood, mountain, and sea than on the tract of the line of railway along the coast of Morecamb Bay. This district is well worth a visit for itself, presenting as it does scenery of the greatest interest. A traveller may now, however, proceed from London direct to Windermere or to Keswick by rail. On Windermere, Ullswater, and Coniston lakes small steamers ply regularly, and the tourist is recommended to avail himself of them, as the scenery of the banks generally appears to the greatest advantage from the water, although the lake itself may be best viewed from the shore. Excellent hotels are now found where a few years ago only public-houses stood, and have greatly increased the conveniences and comfort of travelling in a district which was formerly worse provided with inns than any other part of England. The service and commis- sariat are good at the best hotels, and the charges not higher than Introd. Vi. Skeleton Tours. xxxi would be made for similar advantages elsewhere. As a rule, it is desirable to go to the best hotels ; the accommodation of second and third class inns is decidedly inferior, but not so the charges. It is scarcely necessary to add that the only map to be relied on is one reduced from the Ordnance Survey, which forms an indispensable adjunct to the Handbook. It is desirable to commence the tour of the Lake district from Lan- caster, visiting in the first place the portion of it which lies within Lancashire. This route will include Ulverston, Holker Hall, and Furness Abbey, and by taking that portion of the tour first the scenery will be found to gradually rise in interest. The following skeleton tours have been arranged in conformity with this suggestion. YI. — Skeleton Tours. No. 1. A Tour of 5 Weeks ; starting from Lancaster - Days. 1. Whitehaven and Furness Ely. to Grange* visiting the Hempsfell and Yewbarrow Heights, the Yalley on the road to Newby Bridge, and Cartmel Church. 2. Ely., stopping at Cark Stat. for Holker Hall : then to Ulverston, visiting Conishead Park, Bardsea, Birkrigg, and the Lindal or Dalston Iron Mines. 3. Ely. to Furness Abbey. 4. Ely. to Barrow and Peel Castle. 5. Ely. to Broughton : excursion by car up the Yalley of the Duddon as far as Cockley Beck, and back to Broughton. 6. Ely. to Holborn Hill for excursion to Black Combe and Millom Castle. Eetum to Broughton. 7. Ely. to Coniston. Excursion on the Lake. 8. Ascend Coniston Old Man. 9. Excursion round the Lake by Torver, Blawith, and Nibthwaite; 1 0. To Bowness, by car or coach, by Esthwaite Water and Sawrey, crossing Windermere Lake by the Ferry. 11. Excursion by steamer to Newby Bridge (Lake Side) and back. 12. Steamer to Waterhead, or coach direct to Ambleside. See Stockghyll Force and Eydal Waterfalls. 13. Excursion by car to Langdale, Dungeon Ghyll, Blea Tarn, and back to Ambleside through Little Langdale. 14. To Grasmere by coach or car. Yisit Easdale Tam, Eed Bank, and High Close. 15. Ascend Fairfield. Yisit the Wishing Gate. 16. Thirlmere by car, proceeding on to Keswick. 17. Excursion on Derwentwater. Ascend Skiddaw. 18. Excursion into Borrowdale by car (visiting Barrow and Lodore Water- falls) as far as Eosthwaite. Back to Keswick by the W. shore of the Lake. 19. Druid’s Circle, Pencil manufactory, Model of the Lake District, xxxii Vi. Skeleton Tours. Introd. Days. Friar’s Crag, Crosthwaite Church, Southey’s Monument, and ex- cursion to Bassenthwaite Lake. 20. By car to Buttermere, Crummock Water, and Scale Force, through Bor- rowdale or the Yale of Newlands to Scale Hill. 21. Lowes Water ; and by Lamplugh to Ennerdale Lake by car. 22. Ely. from Frizington Stat. to Whitehaven. The Coast and Coal-mines and Headland of St. Bees. 23. Ely. to Egremont : thence to Calder Bridge by car. See Calder Abbey and Ponsonby Hall. 24. By car through Gosforth to Strands for Wastwater. 25. Wastwater and ascend Scawfell. 26. To Drigg by Santon Bridge ; rly. to Maryport and Carlisle. 27. Carlisle Castle, Cathedral. Excursion to Corby Castle. 28. Ely. to Haworth Castle, and Lanercost Priory. 29. Ely. from Carlisle to Penrith. See Castle, Church, and ascend Beacon. 30. Excursion by car to Eden Hall, Druidical Circle Long Meg and her Daughters, Kirk-Oswald, and Nunnery on the Croglin. 31. See Brougham Castle and Hall, Mayborough and King Arthur’s Pound Table, Greystoke Castle and Park. 32. Excursion to Lowther Castle, Haweswater, and Mardale Head, returning to Penrith. 33. Car to Pooley Bridge, and by steamer to Patterdale at the head of Ullswater. 34. Ascend Helvellyn. Visit Gowbarrow Park and Ara Force. 35. To Windermere Ely. Stat. by Kirkstone and Troutbeck. This tour may be extended 2 or 3 days by taking the rly. from Penrith to Kirkby-Stephen, stopping 3 or 4 hrs. at Appleby to see the Castle (Ete. 11), and at Brough (nearest stat. Musgrave) for the fine ruin of Brough Castle. From Kirkby-Stephen there is direct rly. communication to Kirkby- Lonsdale (Ete. 11), which is well worth visiting for its beautiful scenery and' remarkable ch. From Kirkby-Lonsdale the rly. may be taken to Windermere. No. 2. A Tour op 3 Weeks i making Windermere the starting point, omitting the Furness District : — Days. 1. ToConiston Lake, crossing Windermere Lake by the Ferry at Bowness, Esthwaite Water and Hawkshead. 2. Ascend the Old Man, and excursion on the Lake. 3* To Ambleside by coach or car. See Stock Ghyll Force. 4 t Excursion to Langdale, Dungeon Ghyll, Blea Tarn. Back to Ambleside. 5. To Grasmere, visiting Eydal Mount and Eydal Waterfalls by the way. 6. Excursions to Fairfield, Easdale, Eed Bank, and High Close. 7. By car to Keswick, visiting Thirlmere on the way. 8. Excursion on Derwentwater, or into Borrowdale. 9. Car to Crummock Water and Buttermere, by the Yale of Newlands to Scale Hill, or up Borrowdale by Honister Crag to Buttermere. 10. To Strands, Wastwater by Loweswater, Lamplugh, and Ennerdale Bridge, visiting Ennerdale Lake. Introd. yi. Skeleton Tours. xxxiii Days. 11. Wastdale Head. Scawfell. Back to Strands. 12. By rly. from Drigg Stat. to Broughton ; stopping at Holborn Hill Stat. to see the remains of Millom Castle. 13. Excursion up the Valley of the Duddon. 14. Ely. from Broughton to Coniston; thence by coach or car to Bow- ness. 15. Steamer to Newby Bridge (Lake Side) and back. 16. Ely. from Windermere Stat. to Penrith. See Brougham Castle and Hall. Long Meg (Druidieal Circle) and Nunnery. 17. Visit Lowther Castle and Haweswater. 18. Ulls water by Pooley Bridge, and steamer to Patterdale (stops 1J hr.). See Gowbarrow Park and Ara Force. 19. Helvellyn. 20. To Lowood Inn, by Troutbeck, over Kirkstone. 21. Windermere Stat. No. 3. A Tour of 3 Weeks from the N., starting from Carlisle D ays. 1. Excursion by rly. to Corby Castle, Naworth Castle, the Eoman Wall at Burdoswald, and Lanercost Priory. 2. Ely. to Keswick, by Maiyport and Cockermouth. 3. Bassenthwaite Lake, taking the rly. to Bassenthwaite Stat., and a boat on the Lake. 4. Derwentwater and Borrowdale, as far as Eosthwaite. 5. The Vale of St. John and Thirlmere, taking the rly. to Threlkeld ; return to Keswick over Castlerigg. 6. Ascend Skiddaw. 7. Ely. to Cockermouth : thence by the Vale of Lorton to Scale Hill for Crummock Water and Buttermere. Sleep at Scale Hill. 8. Car to Cockermouth, then rly. to Whitehaven : thence by branch rly. to Frizington Stat. for Ennerdale Lake. 9. From Frizington Stat. to Egremont : thence by car to Calder Abbey, through Gosforth to Strands, Wastwater. 10. Wastwater and Scawfell. 11. From Drigg Stat. by rly. to Broughton. 12. Excursion up the Valley of the Duddon, and return to Broughton. 13. Ely. to Furness Abbey, Barrow, and Peel. 14. Ely. to Coniston from Furness Abbey. Excursion on the Lake. 15. From Coniston to Bowness, Windermere, by Esthwaite, Sawrey, and the Ferry (coach). 16. Bowness to "Newby Bridge, and thence by steamer to Ambleside. 17. Visit Langdale, Dungeon Ghyll, and Blea Tarn. 18. Stockghyll Force, Wansfell, and Eydal Waterfalls. 19. To Grasmere. Excursion into Easdale, and visit Eed Bank and High Close, or ascend Fairfield. 20. Car to Patterdale, through Ambleside, and over Kirkstone Pass for Ullswater. 21. Visit Gowbarrow Park. Ara Force. The Lake. XXX1Y Vi. Skeleton Tours . Introd. Days. 22. By steamer to Pooley Bridge : thence by coach to Penrith. Visit Brougham Castle and Hall. 23. Excursion to Lowther Castle and Haweswater. 24. Car to Kirk-Oswald : visiting Eden Hall, Druidical Circle, and Nunnery. 25. Ely. to Carlisle. No. 4. A Pedestrian Tour of 3 Weeks : starting from Windermere : — Days. 1. Steamer to Lake Side : then the road on the W. bank of Windermere to Ambleside. 2. To Coniston by Skelwith and Yewdale. 3. Ascend Coniston Old Man. 4. Steamer to the foot of the Lake : then by Penny Bridge to Ulver- ston. 5. See Conishead Park, Bardsea, Birkrigg, and back to Ulverston. 6. To Furness Abbey through Urswiek. 7. Ely. to Broughton : then walk up the Valley of the Duddon and over Hardknot into Eskdale. Sleep at the Bout. S. To Wastdale Head by Burnmoor Tarn. Sleep at the Huntsman’s Inn. 9. Ascend Scawfell. ] 0. By the Black Sail and Scarf Gap Passes to Buttermere and Crummock Water. 11. By Scale Force and Floutern Tam to Ennerdale (the Angler’s Inn). 12. By rly. (Frizington Stat.) to Whitehaven, Workington, Cockermouth, and Keswick. 13. Ascend Skiddaw. 14. To Eosth waite through Borrowdale, and by Watendlath to Armboth, Thirlmere, and Thrispot. Sleep at the King’s Head. 15. The Vale of St. John to Threlkeld and back. 16. To Grasmere. 17. To Patterdale (Ullswater) by the Griesdale Pass. 18. Ascend Helvellyn. 19. To Penrith ; visiting Gowbarrow Park and Ara Force on the way. 20. To Mardale Head, Haweswater ; seeing Brougham Hall, Brougliafia Castle, and Lowther Castle on the way. 21. To Stavely on the Windermere Ely. by the Pass of Nanbield, and through Kentmere, or over the Fells to Troutbeck, and thence to the Windermere Ely. Stat. No. 5. A Pedestrian Tour of a Fortnight : starting from Windermere : — Days. 1. To Coniston : crossing the Ferry from Bowness, and proceeding by Esthwaite Lake and through Hawkshead. Introd. vi. Skeleton Tours. XXXV 2. To Grasmere, through Tilberthwaite, Golwith, Skelwith, and over Red Bank. 3. To Thirlmere Lake ; sleep at the King’s Head, Thrispote 4. To Keswick by the Yale of St. John and Threlkeld. 5. Excursion on Derwentwater, and ascend Skiddaw. 6. To Rosth waite, Borrowdale. and by the Sty Head Pass, to Wastdale Head and Wastwater. Sleep at the Huntsman’s Inn. 7. To Ennerdale by the Black Sail Pass, and down the Valley of the Liza to the Angler’s Inn. 8. To Crummock Water and Buttermere by Floutern Tam and Scale Force. 9. To Keswick by the Yale of Newlands. 10. To Penrith by rly. ; then to Pooley Bridge, and to Patterdale. Ullswater. Return to Penrith. 11. Eden Hall. (Druidical Circle) Long Meg and her Daughters. Kirk- Oswald and Nunnery, returning over Penrith Fell to Penrith. 12. To Haweswater and Mardale, visiting Lowther Castle by the way. 13. From Mardale Head by Hayeswater and Hartsop to Brothers’ Water : thence over Kirkstone Pass to Ambleside. A guide would be required from Mardale to Brothers’ Water. 14. Steamer from Ambleside (Waterhead) to Lake Side : thence to Ulver- ston, and by rly. to Windermere or Lancaster. The finest scenery of the Lake district is included in this tour. No. 6. A Pedestrian Tour of a Week : starting from Windermere : — Days. 1. Steamer to Waterhead : then through Langdale, and over the Stake Pass to Rosth waite, in Borrowdale. 2. To Keswick : thence to Buttermere by the Yale of Newlands. 3. To Wastwater (Wastdale Head) by the Scarf Gap and Black Sail Passes. 4. To Eskdale by Burnmoor Tarn, and over Hardknot and Wrynose, and then by Fell Foot, Blea Tarn, Langdale, and Red Bank to Grasmere. 5. To Patterdale and Ullswater over Griesdale Pass. Ascend Helvellyn : then by steamer to Pooley Bridge, thence to Penrith. 6. To Haweswater and Mardale Head by Lowther Castle. 7. By the Nanbield Pass and Kentmere to Troutbeck and the Winder- mere Stat. No. 7. A Tour of a Week by Rly. and Car : starting from Windermere D ays. 1. Cross the Ferry from Bowness. Car to Coniston by Esth waite Water. Rly. from Coniston to Furness Abbey. 2. Rly. to Drigg. Car thence to Wastdale Head for Wastwater. Return XXXVI vi. Skeleton Tours . Introd. to Drigg, and rly. by Whitehaven, Workington, and Cockermonth to Keswick. 3. Car from Keswick through Borrowdale, and over Honister Crag to Buttermere and Crummock Water, diniug at Scale Hill, and returning to Keswick by the Yale of Newlands. 4. Ely. to Penrith : thence by car to Pooley Bridge, and by steamer to Patterdale. 5. Car from Patterdale by Kirkstone Pass to Ambleside; thence to Grasmere. 6. Car to Thirlmere and the Yale of St. John. Return to Grasmere, and then over Red Bank to the Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, Langdale. 7. By car round Blea Tarn and Little Langdale to Waterhead (Ambleside). Steamer to Lake Side, and rly. to Ulverston. No. 8. A Tour of 3 Days by Rly. and Car : starting from Keswick : — Days. 1. Car to Buttermere and Crummock Water by the Yale of Newlands, returning by the Pass of Honister Crag through Borrowdale. 2. Rly. by Cockermouth and Whitehaven to Drigg Stat. on the White- haven and Furness Rly. Car to Wastwater. Return to Drigg, and rly. to Coniston. 3. Car from Coniston to the Ferry opposite Bowness. Car from Bowness to Patterdale (Ulls water). Steamer from Patterdale to Pooley Bridge, and coach or car to Penrith. No. 9. A Tour of 2 Days by Rly. and Car : starting from Bowness : — Days. 1. Car to Coniston, crossing the Ferry at Bowness. Rly. to Drigg for Wastwater ; return to Drigg, and then rly. to Keswick. 2. After seeing Derwentwater and Borrowdale, rly, to Penrith. Car to Pooley Bridge. Steamer to Patterdale. Car or coach by Trout- beck to Bowness. No. 10. Another 2 Days’ Tour : starting from Bowness : — Days. 1. Coach from Bowness by Patterdale to Ullswater. Steamer to Pooley Bridge. Rly. to Keswick. Car in the afternoon to Derwentwater and Lodore. 2. Coach and car from Keswick by Grasmere, Rydal, and Ambleside to Coniston. Rly. to Furness Abbey. Introd. Yi. Skeleton Tours . XXXVll No. 11. A Short Tour of the Lakes : — From Lancaster (King's Arms ; nice clean old-fashioned inn). Ulverstone by Oversands Rly. Furness Abbey. Hotel for the night. Barrow Dock. Coniston by rly. Bowness on Windermere (or by boat up the lake to Low Wood Inn). Excursion to Ullswater Hotel, over Kirkstone Pass. Boat on the lake. Ascent of Helvellyn and back, half a day — or dine, return in evening by Ambleside to Grasmere (Lake Hotel). Excursion . — By car over Red Bank to Dungeon Gill Hotel. Round Blea Tarn, Little Langdale. Back by Ambleside, Grasmere, Water- head. By Yale of St. John’s to Keswick. Hotel at rly. stat., or Derwentwater Hotel, Portinscale. Excursions (a) —By water to Lodore Fall, or round the lake in car, stopping to see Lodore and the Bowder Stone. (b). — A waggonette-coach from Keswick to Butter mere over Honister Crag Pass. Sleep at Buttermere, or return to Keswick by Scale Hill and Yale of Newlands. Return to London : — (a). Keswick to Penrith, visiting Lowther Castle, Brougham Hall, and Brougham Castle. Or (b). Keswick by Bassenth waite to Cockermouth. Whitehaven. Rail to Drigg Stat. Take car to Wast water and back. Rail to Ulver- stone as before. [ Westm . & Cumb.'] c xxxviii vn. Elevations of Mountains . VII. — Table of the Elevations of Mountains. Scawfell Pike Cumberland Scawfell Cumberland Helvellyn Cumberland and Westmorland .. Skiddaw Cumberland Bowfell Westmorland Great Gable Cumberland Pillar Cumberland Crossfell Cumberland Fairfield Westmorland Saddleback Cumberland . . . . Grassmoor Cumberland High Street Westmorland Bed Pike Cumberland Coniston Old Man Lancashire Griesdale Pike Cumberland Hill Bell .. Westmorland Bobinson Cumberland Harrison Stickle W estmorland Carrock Fell Cumberland High Pike Cumberland Cawsey Pike Cumberland Black Combe Cumberland Honister Crag Cumberland Wansfell Westmorland Kirkstone Pass Westmorland.. .. Catbells Cumberland Latrigg Cumberland Dent Hill Cumberland The Tongue (Troutbeck) .. Westmorland Penrith Beacon Cumberland In trod. Height in feet. 3208-6 3161*0 3118-6 3059-9 2959 8 2949 0 2927*3 2892-8 2862-6 2847-4 2805-2 2663*0 2650-2 2632-0 2605-9 2475-2 2417-0 2401*1 2173-0 21570 2030-0 1969-3 1700-0 1580-7 1481 - 0 1482 - 0 1203-0 1130-7 1191-8 9370 Introd, Yin. Altitudes of Lakes and Tarns . xxxix VIII. — Altitudes of Lakes and Tarns. (. Alphabetically arranged.) Angle Tarn Altitude in feet. 1552*8 Bassenthwaite Water . . 225*5 Beacon Tam 536*4 Blea Tam, 1 612*1 Blea Tarn, 2 700*4 Blea Tara, 3 1561*7 Blea Water 1583*7 Bletham Tarn 138*2 Blind Tarn 726*7 Borran Tarn 413*9 Brothers’ Water .. 519*9 Burnmoor Tarn 832*4 Buttermere Lake 330*7 Codale Tarn 1527*7 Coniston Water .. 146*5 Crnmmock Water 320*8 Derwent Water . . 238*3 Devoke Water 765*6 Dock Tarn 1321*8 Easedale Tarn 914*6 Elter Water 186*7 Ennerdale Water 368*9 Esthwaite Water 216*8 Goats Water 1645*5 Grasmere Lake 207*9 Greycrag Tarn . . 1949*4 Altitude in feet. Griesdale Tarn 1767*9 Hawes Water 694*4 Hayes Water .. .. .. 1382*7 Kentmere Reservoir . . . . 972*9 Keppel Cove Tam .. .. 1824*8 Levers Water 1349*7 Little Langdale Tarn . . 339*6 Loughrigg Tarn 307*6 Low Water 1786*4 Loweswater 428*9 Red Tarn 2356*2 Rydal Water 180*5 Seath waite Tarn . . . . . . 1210*1 Siney Tarn 724*0 Skeggles Water 1016*6 Small Water 1483*6 Sprinkling Tarn 1959*7 Stickle Tarn 1540*4 Sty Head Tarn 1430*3 Sunbiggin Tam 824*3 Thirlmere 533*2 Ullswater 476*6 Wastwater 204*4 Watendlath Tarn .. .. 847*0 Windermere 133*7 HANDBOOK FOR WESTMORLAND AND CUMBERLAND. EOUTES. *** The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are described. ROUTE PAGE 1. Lancaster to Furness Abbey, by Carnforth, Silverdale, Arnside, Grange, Holher, Ulverston, Lindal, and Dal- ton — Whitehaven and Fur- ness Rly 2 2. Ulverston to Whitehaven, by Kirhby - Ireleth, Broughton, Holborn Hill, Bavenglass, and St. Rees— Whitehaven and Furness Rly 19 3. Lancaster to Ambleside , by Carnforth, Milnthorpe, Oxen - holme, and Kendal — Rail. Bowness and Windermere Lake 26 4. Ambleside to Coniston and the Yalley of the Duddon . . 42 5. Ambleside to Keswick, by Grasmere and Thirlmere — Coach 47 6. Keswick to Crummoch Water and Butter mere : — (1) by Whinlatter ; (2) by the Yale of Newlands ; (3) by Borrowdale and Honister Crag 67 ROUTE PAGE 7. Lancaster to Carlisle, by Tebay, Shap, and Penrith — Rail 73 8. Penrith to Whitehaven, by Keswick, Cockermouth, and Workington — Rail .. .. 82 9. Whitehaven to Wastwater, by Egremont, Calder Bridge, and Gosforth 87 10. Whitehaven to Carlisle, through Workington, Mary - port, Aspatria , and Wigton —Rail 95 11. Carlisle to Silloth, by Burgh- on-the-Sands — Solway Moss. Netherby — Rail 99 12. Carlisle to Gilsland Spa, by W ether al, Corby, Bramp- ton, and Naworth Castle — Rail 101 13. Penrith to Ambleside, by Pooley Bridge , Ullswater Lake, Patterdale , and Kirk- stone Pass 108 14. Penrith to Appleby, Brough , Kirkby-Stephen, and Kirkby- Lonsdale — Rail 121 [ Westrn. & Cumb.'] B 2 Boute 1 . — Lancaster to Furness Abbey. ROUTE 1. LANCASTER TO FURNESS ABBEY, BY CARNFORTH,SILVERDALE, ARNSIDE, GRANGE, HOLKER, ULVERSTON, LIN DAL, AND DALTON, BY WHITE- HAVEN AND FURNESS RAILWAY. Lancaster (Inns : King’s Arms, an old-fashioned, very comfortable house ; Queen’s ; Commercial) ; Pop. 14,487. Distances : from London, 231 m. ; Manchester, 53 ; Liverpool, 50 ; Leeds, 63; Preston, 21. Trains: 5 daily to Ulverston, 1 hr. 10 m. ; 3 to Penrith, 1 hr. 50 m. ; 3 to Carlisle, by express 1 hr. 53 m., by ordinary train 3 hrs. 5 m. ; 6 to Kendal, 1 hr. 25 m. ; 6 to Windermere, 1 hr. 45 m. Lancaster was a Roman stat., and possessed a camp on the lofty site of its present Castle in the 1st cent. The mound on which it stands is supposed to be partly artificial. From the ap- pearance of the foundations, it seems that 2 round towers, distant from each other about 90 paces, were connected by open galleries. The view from the castle is one of great beauty: in front is the fine expanse of Morecamb Bay, on the rt. the mountains of Westmorland and Cum- berland, and to the 1. the Lune wind- ing through fertile meadows and a rich variegated country. Cam- den says, — “The river Loan or Lune sees Lancaster on its S. bank, the chief town of the county. The Scots call it Lancaster from the river near which it is built. From the name of the river the designation of the place seems to have been the ancient Longavicum, where, under a Roman lieutenant, a cohort of the Longovica, which took its name from that place, was posted.” Lancaster was bestowed by William the Con- queror on Roger of Poictou, who built or added to the castle in 1094 ; and it became the capital of a Norman noble, who was further enfeoffed by William of 398 English manors and of the whole county of Lancashire. The city early acquired extensive privileges, among which were an assize of bread, a pillory, and a gal- lows. In the reign of Edw. III. Lan- cashire was raised to the dignity of a Palatinate, and its capital became the residence of John of Gaunt, “time- honoured Lancaster,” the 4th son of Edw. III., who created him Duke of Lancaster. Edward granted it a charter in 1363, and John of Gaunt built the magnificent gateway of the castle and also the tower, still called by his name. The castle was for many years his residence. Its appearance from the rly. is not very imposing, little of it being visible except the modem assize-courts. It should be viewed from the E. side, whence its grand proportions are very conspicuous. The terrace- walk, a stone pavement carried nearly round the castle-walls, forms a pleasant promenade. Outside the castle, and near the ch.yard, is a spot called the “Hanging-corner,” where the gallows are still erected for executions. One of the former chaplains of the gaol is said to have attended no less than 170 criminals to the scaffold. The great tower is flanked by 2 octagonal turrets, 66 fe et high, surrounded by watch-towers. This is, perhaps, the finest part of the building. There are altogether 5 towers — the Gateway Tower; the Lungess Tower, or Great Norman Keep, at the top of which is a turret called John of Gaunt’s Chair; the Dungeon Tower, a small square tower on the S. side ; Adrian’s Tower ; and the Well Tower : the last 3 are sup- posed to have been built on Roman foundations. On entering the quad- Boute 1 . — Lancaster . 3 rangle the modern character of the greater part of the building is appa- rent. There are the assize-courts, gaol, and apartments for the officers. The walls of the great tower or keep are 10 feet thick, and of immense strength ; within this tower is the pri- son-chapel. The Assize Courts, which were opened in 1796, are spacious and handsome ; but since the division of the county and the consequent transfer of the greater portion of its legal business to Liverpool, the assizes, which formerly occupied a fortnight or 3 weeks, now seldom extend be- yond 2 days. In the Crown Court the Judge’s chair is surmounted by some richly-carved woodwork, and by a large painting of George III. on horseback, by Northcote. At the back of the dock in this Court is to be seen the ‘‘holdfast,” into which were put the left hands of criminals who had been sentenced to be burned in the hand, the punishment being inflicted in open court. The Nisi Prius Court is a larger and more im- posing structure, the ceiling being of open stonework supported by elegant clustered columns. The 2 pictures were presented by the late Sir Eobert Peel— 'One of Col. Stanley, the other of John Blackburn, Esq., representa- tives of Lancaster in Parliament. The castle was besieged and taken by Cromwell, and on the S.W. side of the town may be seen remains of the trenches and of the batteries for breaching the walls. In 1745 the Pretender entered Lancaster at the head of his Highlanders, marching on foot to encourage his followers. St. Mary's Church on the hill was built on the site of a Benedictine priory. The aisles are divided from the body of the ch. by 8 pointed arches, the capitals of the supporting pillars being richly sculptured with foliage. There are some good wood- carvings in the chancel. The tower was rebuilt in 1759. There is a brass to the memory of Thomas Cowell, in his aldermanic robes, with an inscription, a curious literary composition. The E. window is of stained glass, repre- senting the Crucifixion and the As- cension. The N. aisle contains 3 memorial windows. There is a mo- nument, by Koubilliac, of William Stratford, LL.D., and one to the me- mory of Sir Samuel Eyre, one of the Judges of the Court of King’s Bench in the reign of William III. Christ Church was erected and en- dowed by Samuel Gregson, Esq., one of the members for the city, and was opened in 1859. It is in the Early Eng. style, of which it is a good spe- cimen. The Roman Catholic Cathedral , in the East Eoad, is a fine building, erected in 1859. The cost of its con- struction was 15,000Z. The tower and spire are 240 ft. high. The style is Geom. Gothic, which prevailed in England early in the 14th centy. The groined ceiling of the chancel is mag- nificently decorated with gold and colours. The High altar and the Lady-chapel altar are composed of various coloured marbles. The 3 E. windows are of stained glass ; the centre one representing the Ascen- sion ; the 1., St. Peter standing in the Gateway of Heaven, and receiving the Keys; that on the rt., St. Paul caught up to the third Heaven, and his Conversion on the way to Da- mascus. The other public buildings are not important. The monastic - looking structure, which forms a prominent object on approaching the city, and close to the rly. on the rt., is Ripley's Hospital for Orphans , erected by the widow of Thomas Eipley, Esq., a native. of Lancaster, and a Liverpool merchant, in compliance with the wishes of her husband, who had de- voted 100,0001 for the purpose. It is in the Early-Pointed style of the 12th centy., and is intended for the education of 150 boys and 150 girls b 2 4 Boute 1 . — Morecamb Bay. The foundation-stone was laid in 1856. The building cost 25,000Z. At Horseshoe Corner in the town is a horseshoe fixed in the pavement, and which is renewed at certain inter- vals. The custom is supposed to have originated in the time of John of Gaunt, who once rode into the town upon a charger which lost its shoe at this place. It was taken up and fixed in the middle of the street, and a new one has been regularly placed there every 7th year, at the expense of the towns- men who reside near the spot. The Town-hall is a heavy edifice, built of freestone, and contains a few portraits. Lancaster, as a sea- port, was once of greater importance than Liverpool. When Charles I. levied ship - money, Lancaster was assessed at SOI., Liverpool 25 1., and Preston at 20Z., for fitting out a ship of 400 tons. The pop. is declining, owing to its diminished importance as a manufacturing city. The quiet of the streets presents a great contrast to the stir and bustle of most other Lancashire towns. The Furness District can be most conveniently approached from Lan- caster by the Furness Ely., and the tourist is strongly recommended to visit that portion of the Lake country first. The tract called Furness is bounded on the W. by the river Dud- don, on the N. by Cumberland, on the E. by Westmorland, and on the S. by the sea. The mountain of Black Combe is a noble termination to its S. boundary. The tract called “ Fur- ness Fells,” Camden says, “ is all mountains and high rocks, among which the ancient Britons lived, se- curely relying on those natural fast- nesses, which, however, were not im- pregnable to the Saxon conqueror, for that the Britons lived here in the 228th year after the first arrival of the Saxons in the S. part of the island is proved by the curious historical fact, that a king of the Northum- brians gave to St. Cutlibert the land called Cartmel, and all the Britons on it , as is related in his Life. This district was long renowned for the wealthy and magnificent Abbey of Furness and its two dependent Pri- ories of Conishead and Cartmel.” Morecamb Bay , which receives the waters of the Lune, the Keer, the Winster, the Kent, and the Leven, is environed by scenery of singular beauty. The irregular and indented shores are diversified by numerous vales, parks, woods sloping to the water’s edge, interesting old towns, and picturesque villages. At low water the sands form a plain of great extent, from which the ranges of the Westmorland and Cumberland mountains are seen to great advan- tage. The old route over the sands, now superseded by the rly., began at Hest Bank, 3 m. from Lancaster, and the track was marked by branches of trees, called brogs, stuck in the sand. On reaching Kent’s Bank the coach travelled for a few miles on the Cart- mel shore, and then crossed the estu- ary of the Leven to Uiverston. The construction of a rly. across the head : of Morecamb Bay for a distance of 8 m., partly on solid em- bankments and partly on iron via- ducts, is one of the most remarkable achievements of modern engineering science. The bay extends above 17 m. inland from its point of embouchure in the Irish Channel, and is of an ave- rage width of 10 m. Towards the head of the bay the waters shoal very much, and an immense extent of sand and alluvial mud is left high and dry at low water. Down to the time when the rly. was opened (1857) the coach plied across the sands from Lancaster to Uiverston, and vice versa , each day, and many are the hairbreadth escapes that occurred in the crossing. Nor did travellers always escape the perils of the journey. The registers of the parish of Cartmel show that not fewer than 100 persons have been buried in 5 Route 1 . — Railway Embankment . its churchyard, who were drowned in 1 attempting to pass the sands. This is independent of similar burials in other churchyards in adjacent parishes on both sides of the bay. In the spring of 1857 a party of 10 or 12 young men and women, proceeding to the hiring-market at Lancaster, were overtaken by the advancing tide, when every one of them perished. The principal danger arose from the trea- cherous nature of the sands and their constant shifting during the freshes which occurred in the rivers flowing into the head of the bay. As early as the year 1837 Stephen- son recommended the construction of a rly. from Poulton, near Lancaster, to Humphry Head, on the opposite coast, as part of a west-coast line to Scotland. He proposed to carry the road across the sands in a segment of a circle of 5 m. His design was to drive piles for the whole length, and form a solid fence of stone blocks on the land side of the piles for the pur- pose of retaining the sand and silt brought down by. the rivers from the interior. It was calculated that the value of the 40,000 acres of rich alluvial land thus reclaimed from the bay would have more than covered the cost of forming the embankment. But the scheme was not prosecuted, and a line was subsequently adopted, though in a greatly modified form, by the Ulverston and Lancaster Ely. Company, at the suggestion of Mr. Brogden, a wealthy railway con- tractor, whose residence is now on Holme Island, Grange, close to the rly. of which he may be said to have been the projector. It was his wish to have taken the line straight across the bay, somewhat after Mr. Ste- phenson’s plan ; but it was eventually determined to carry the rly. nearer to the land across the estuaries of the rivers Kent and Leven. The work during its progress was a daily encounter with difficulties oc- curring at every flux and reflux of the tide, besides the constant washing of the railway embankment on the land side by the rivers flowing into the sea ; and when to the flow of the tide was added the force of a south-westerly storm, the temporary havoc made in the embankments was calculated greatly to discourage the projectors of the undertaking. The principal difficulties were en- countered in crossing the channels of the Leven and Kent rivers. In making the trial borings nothing but sand was found to a depth of 30 ft. In one case the boring was carried 70 ffc. down, and still there was nothing but sand. It was necessary, in the first place, to confine the channels of the rivers to a fixed bed, which was accomplished by means of weirs most ingeniously constructed to counteract the effect of the eddies upon the line of the embankment or main weir. When the currents had been fixed, viaducts of 50 spans, of 30 ft. each, were thrown over the channels, and in each viaduct was placed a draw- bridge, to permit the passing of sail- ing vessels. To protect the founda- tions of the piers of these viaducts, as well as the rly. embankment, weirs were also formed parallel with the current of the stream, which had the further effect of retaining the silt in- land, and thus enabling large tracts of valuable land to be reclaimed. The land thus reclaimed behind the em- bankments of the Kent estuary is now under cultivation, where only a short time since fishermen were accus- tomed to ply their trade. The chief difficulty which the engineer, Mr. Brunlees, had to en- counter was in finding a solid founda- tion amidst the shifting sands for the piers of the extensive viaducts across the mouths of the rivers. He finally overcame this by the use of iron disc piles, which he sunk to an average depth of 20 ft. by means of hydraulic pressure. The water, being passed through a pipe down the interior of the pile, loosened the sands imme- diately beneath the disc, and allowed 6 Boute 1 . — Carnforth — Arnside. the pile to sink by its own weight; after the pressure of water was with- drawn the piles were driven down 2 in. further by short blows from a heavy “ tup and up to the present time, though supporting a rly. upon which there is a very heavy traffic, they have given no signs of subsid- ence. The interior of the embank- ments is generally formed of sand, the slopes on the sea side being pro- tected by layers of puddle, 12 in. thick, “quarry rid,” 6 in. thick, and stone pitching, from 8 to 16 in. in thickness. On the landward side the slopes of the embankment are pro- tected by pitching or sods, according to position. The entire work must be regarded as a complete triumph of English engineering over that element which usually tests its highest skill. 6 m. Carnforth Stat. — The Furness Rly. commences from this stat., where a change of carriages takes place. From Lancaster nearly to Ulverston the rly. commands fine views of Morecamb Bay. The shelving shores of lime- stone and the verdure of the woods present fine contrasts of colour, and the manner in which the white moun- tain-limestone sometimes crops out on the tops of the bald hills gives them a very peculiar appearance, in some places as if they were covered with hoar-frost. The rly. crosses the little river Keer soon after it quits Carn- forth Stat. There is an adage which proves the influence of this and the other rivers which fall into the bay in rendering the old route over the sands so dangerous— “ The Kent and the Keer Have parted many a good man and his meear” (mare). 9J m. Silverdale Stat. — ( Inns : Britannia ; Victoria. A post-office.) The village, prettily situated on the Morecamb Bay, ljm. from the stat., is resorted to as a watering-place in the bathing season ; but the lodging- houses are few. Large quantities of cockles and “ flooks ” (flounders) and other flatfish are taken here and sent to the nearest market-towns. A ravine leading past Lindeth Tower to the sea should be visited. The lime- stone crops out picturesquely, and forms escarpments, clothed with lichens, ferns, and other plants. Quiet, sea-air, and pleasing scenery, may be enjoyed here. 2 m. from Silverdale is Leighton Flail (R. Gillow, Esq.). Ilf m. Arnside Stat. — Arnside Knot is seen on the 1., with Arnside Tower , a massive square building, from which fine views of the bay. Peel Castle, and the estuary of the Kent are com- manded. In former days it was a Border stronghold; the walls are of great thickness, with small windows, and numerous embrasures. The in- terior is a mere shell : but there are remains of the massive staircase. The ruin is finely situated on a knoll, with Middleton Wood on one side and Arnside Knot on the other. On the rt. of the rly. is Heslop Tower, another old fortress, once used as a beacon. The dis- trict possesses much interest for the geologist and the botanist. The lime- stone formation is well displayed, and the hedgerows produce some rare ferns. Arnside Knot is a hill crowned with larch plantations : the view from it will repay an ascent. In the valley there is a small lake, called Hawes Tarn , said to contain immense quan- tities of pike, and remarkable for a thick bed of white minute univalve sea-shells. The limestone ridges to the E. form a prominent feature in the landscape, and to the N. are seen the estuary of the Kent and the Cumbrian mountains. The Kent is here crossed by a viaduct, from which the fine lime- stone crag of Wliitbarrow Scar is seen to great advantage on the rt. The rly. skirts the shore, of which 100 acres have been reclaimed from the sea by the embankment. The wooded knolls add much to the beauty of the scenery. 14 1 m. Grange Stat. (Inn: the Route 1 . — Cartmel. 7 Grange Hotel, a first-rate establish- ment, situate in a beautifully pic- turesque situation, and fitted up in a style of great comfort with nume- rous private sitting-rooms. Charges by tariff moderate. Coaches twice a day from the stat. to Newby Bridge, at the foot of Windermere Lake, 8 m., to meet the steamers for Bowness and Ambleside.) The vil- lage is situated on an estuary at the foot of Yewbarrow, and is sheltered by picturesque and lofty crags, richly wooded. The scenery has made Grange a favourite resort, and the mildness of the air makes it a desirable winter residence. Lindal Lane, on road to Newby Bridge, should be visited, together with Yewbarrow, which overlooks the estuary and the opposite shore of Arnside. The top of Yewbarrow presents phenomena of some interest to the geologist. The limestone is much waterworn and scarred with fissures or cracks, on the origin of which there is much differ- ence of opinion. Near Castle Head, in the lower escarpment of rock on the S. side, the junction of the two forma- tions of slate and limestone is very distinctly marked. Grange is highly appreciated as a winter residence, the mean temperature being higher than that of any other place in the N. of England. It is sheltered from the N. and W. winds by lofty hills. Hempsfeli , 3 m. from Grange, is worth an ascent. Picturesque masses of lime- stone here crop out from the heathery waste, and their crevices are filled with beautiful ferns. The Hospice is a modern building, erected by an in- cumbent of Cartmel for the shelter of visitors. The interior of the tower is provided with stone seats and a fireplace. There is a tablet with a poetical inscription. Most of the Westmorland and Cumberland moun- tains are seen from Hempsfell, and the hills of Yorkshire in the distance to the E. [Cartmel , 2 m. N.W. of Grange, a small, quiet, and primitive old town, should be, visited. Its fine old Church is said to be the only con- ventual building in Lancashire that escaped mutilation after the dissolu- tion of the monasteries. The priory was founded a.d. 1188 by William Mareshall, Earl of Pembroke, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is one of the finest and most interesting specimens of ecclesiastical architecture in the district, and affords examples of almost every style, from Transitional Norm, down to late Eng. Cartmel was never raised to the dignity of an abbey. The charter declares that the Earl founded it “for the increase of our holy religion, giving and granting to it every kind of liberty that heart can conceive, or the mouth utter.’* The priory was enriched by many subsequent benefactors. The char- ter was confirmed by Edw. III. Hen. VIII. dissolved the priory, the establishment of which at the time consisted of 10 monks and 38 ser- vants. The ch. tower is remarkable for its plan, the upper portion being set diagonally upon the lower. The interior of the ch. is a fine speci- men of the Early Eng. ; the centre is supported by large and fine clus- tered pillars. The walls of the choir and transept belong to the first erec- tion ; the windows are of later date. The noble E. window is 40 ft. high, and contains a little ancient staiued glass. There are 2 fine Norm, door- ways, of about the date 1188. The nave is of the 15th centy., and was plastered and whitewashed by the Puritans ; the greater portion of this disfigurement has now been removed, and the walls have been restored to their original state. For nearly 2 cen- turies the chancel was without a roof ; the fine oak stalls suffered accord- ingly. Their seats are 500 years old, with grotesque carvings, the work, doubtless, of the monks ; but the upper portions are modern. Mr. Preston, a former owner of Holker Hall, commenced the restoration 8 Route 1 —Holme Island — Holker Hall. of the ch. in 1640, and erected the carved-oak screen. *The arches in the clerestory were walled up until 1859, when they were discovered by accident. The capitals of the pillars are of richly-sculptured foliage. On the N. side of the aisle is an altar- tomb of William de Walton, the first or second prior. There is a magni- ficent monument to Sir John Harring- ton and his wife (1,305), recumbent beneath a fine fretwork arch, and decorated by numerous symbolical figures. The base is ornamented by grotesque images of chanting monks. The monument was brought from Gleaston Castle, and has suffered considerably either in its removal or from age. The elaborate decorations of the upper portion of the tomb represent some of the events of the Passion, such as the buffeting before Pilate, the scourging, &c. A small chapel contains the tombs of many members of the Lowther family. In the vestry are some curious old books : a Bible, printed at Basle in 1501 ; an edition of Thomas Aquinas, printed at Venice, 1506; and some other rare specimens of early typography. The interior has undergone a complete renovation ; the plaster ceiling which long dis- figured the nave has been re- moved and woodwork substituted ; the hideous galleries which prevented the fine proportions of the edifice from being seen have been taken down, and the disfiguring pews swept away and replaced by oaken seats, and this in- teresting old church has been, in a great degree, restored to its primitive beauty, chiefly at the expense of his Grace the Duke of Devonshire, libe- rally aided by the subscriptions of some of his neighbours. There are some remains of the monastic build- ings belonging to the priory. ,3 m. from the town is the Holy Well of Cartmel, a medicinal spring, which once attracted many visitors.} Holme Island , opposite Grange, has been converted into a tasteful domain, the property of John Brog- den, Esq. ; the mansion is surrounded by pleasure-grounds. The island is about 11 acres in extent. The house is situated in the centre of the island. The grounds are not shown during the residence of the proprietor. A causeway connects the island with the mainland. 1 m. from Grange is Merlewood (Mrs. Horrocks). From Grange an excursion may be made to the promontory of Humphry Head (4 m.), commanding a fine pano- ramic prospect. [Holker Hall , 4 m. from Grange, a seat of the Duke of Devonshire, on the 1. bank of the estuary of the Leven, and surrounded with noble woods. It lies at the foot of the Cart- mel Fells, and commands fine views of the estuary. The park slopes gently down to the water’s edge, and is well stocked with deer. The mansion, with its collection of pictures, and its ex- quisite gardens, is most liberally shown, even during the residence of the Duke. The Hall is most easily reached from Cark Stat., J m. from the lodge; but a visitor of Cartmel will find the walk thence to Holker very agreeable. Quitting the town, he will turn into a road on the 1., and, passing through several fields, as- cend a hill to the rt., which leads to the lodge. On the rt. of the man- sion-house is a figure in freestone of Sir Geoifry Hudson, the dwarf attached to the Court of Charles I., armed, and holding an arquebusque in his right hand. The house contains a great deal of fine carved oak furni- ture. The collection of pictures, which consists chiefly of fine landscapes such as only the largest galleries can show, was chiefly formed in the latter part of the last century, by Sir William Lowther, and, together with Holker Hall, passed by mar- riage into the possession of the Bur- lington family. The Akte-room. — A picture by Route 1 . — Cark — diversion. 0 Lucas , representing two of the sons of the Duke of Devonshire, with a pony ; Bourguinon , two spirited battle- pieces ; Frederick Moucheron, a good landscape; Tintoretto , portrait of a man in a black dress; Sir Joshua Reynolds, portrait of Sir William Low- ther; 2 Hobbema , village views; Pynacker, a landscape; 2 Wouver- mans, landscapes, with figures. Drawing - room. — Claude Lor- raine, 2 grand pictures; one repre- senting the Repose in Egypt, the figures thought to be by Sassoferrato ; Rubens , a landscape ; Horace Vernet, 2 sea-pieces, one representing a storm, the other a calm; Caspar Poussin , a landscape, a very fine composition; Canaletto , view of the Piazzetta; Hans Memling, but said to be Albert Purer, St. Christopher baptized by the infant Christ on his shoulders — “ of mar- vellous power of colouring, the land- scape truly luminous, and the execu- tion of singular delicacy.” — Waagen. Jacob Ruysdael, “a little landscape, remarkable for feeling for nature, and clever handling.” Hobbema, on wood, a picture of the first class in composition, as well as in size, care- fully as well as spiritedly executed ; Van de Capella, a calm sea, warm and clear in tone, a charming picture ; William Van de Velde, a quiet sea, a beautiful picture, of warm colouring ; Cornelius Poelemburg, a landscape, with Tobit and the Angel ; Verboom, a landscape, of sunny transparency. Dining-room. — Claude Lorraine, one of his largest pictures, the Temple Of the Muses, of great grandeur and coolness of effect, and of thoroughly careful execution ; LI Cigoli , St. Francis; Vandyck, portrait, said to be of himself ; Jacob Ruysdael, 2 fine landscapes; Bourginon, 2 good pic- tures, with horsemen; Zuccliarelli, 2 pleasing landscapes; Backhuysen, a sea-piece. The Library contains several por- traits by Sir Peter Lely, and portraits of Sir Thomas More, Sir Isaac New- ton, and Hobbes the philosopher, who was tutor to one of the members of the Cavendish family; a picture by Vandyck, representing Charles I., from three different points of view ; a picture by Roland Savery, of Daniel in the lions’ den. This room con- tains a fine chimneypiece, of about 1490, executed by the Lombardi family, whose workmanship so greatly contributed to the decoration of Venice. The Corridors are ornamented with many historical portraits. The fishing-villages on the Cart- mel coast are very primitive places ; large quantities of shellfish, flounders, and plaice are taken by stake-nets in the bay. From the hamlet of Cark alone 1000 tons of cockles are sent in the course of the year to the various market-towns of Lancashire. The “ cocklers ” belong to the poorest class; and although all are intent on the same pursuit, they are said never to quarrel, in consequence of a belief that if they did the cockles would all leave the sands with the following tide. The cockles lie buried about an inch below the surface ; and their place is known by two little holes or eyes in the sand ; and they are jerked out into a basket by a three-pronged bent fork, called a cram.” An expert “ cockier ” will collect 16 quarts of cockles in an hour.] 18 1 m. Cark St at. The rly. passes close to Holker Park. There is a good view of the mansion on the rt. ; on the 1. is Chapel Lsland, upon which the monks of Furness built an oratory, where prayers were daily offered for the safety of the people crossing the sands. An arch and some portions of the walls remain. The shores of the Leven estuary here present a beauti- ful combination of limestone crags, io Route 1 . — Ulverstofi — Swartmoor Halt. hanging-woods, and grassy mounds, with the moors and mountains in the distance. 5J m. Ulverston, a market-town; Pop. 6630. (Inns : the -Sun, good ; the Bradyll’s Arms.) Conveyances : Bly. trains 6 times daily to Furness Abbey and Whitehaven. A coach to Newby Bridge, at the foot of Win- dermere, daily during the touring season. On the rt., as the town is ap- proached, is Hoad Hill , upon which has been erected a monument 100 ft. high, in imitation of the Eddy- stone lighthouse, to the memory of Sir John Barrow, for many years Secretary of the Admiralty, and a native of this town. The monument was erected in 1850, and is of wrought limestone. The diameter of the in- terior is 19 ft. ; a staircase leads to the top. On the 1. are the woods of Conishead Priory. Ulverston is pleasantly situated in a valley. It is an oldfashioned town, the capital of the Furness district, and was granted, with a manor attached, to the Abbey _ of Furness, by King Stephen. The name of the town is supposed to have been derived from Ulphus, a Saxon noble, who extended his conquest to Furness. The commer- cial importance of Ulverston was considerably increased by the canal made in 1795, under the direction of Bennie, the celebrated engineer. It is capable of admitting ships of 400 tons burthen. The iron-mines in the neighbourhood now give the town its chief importance; but it also pos- sesses a few manufactures. The Church (St. Mary’s), on an eminence overlooking the] town, was partly rebuilt in the reign of Henry VIII., and again in 1804 and in 1865, the last at the cost of 8000Z. The plan was by Paley, architect, of Lancaster. The front, as seen from the churchyard, has rather an im- posing appearance. It is built en- tirely of red sandstone from St. Bees ; the style is Perp. The porch is a fine feature, and the figures on the arch are well sculptured. The octagonal font of Caen stone is tastefully ornamented with emblem- atic designs. The pillars of the seven arches on each side of the nave have been underpinned — a dif- ficult and delicate operation which was rendered necessary by the lower- ing of the level of the floor of the church. The pulpit, like the font, is of Caen stone. Every window is of stained glass, several of them memorial. The centre E. window, to the memory of Benson Harrison, Esq., is by Wayles, and was given by his widow, Mrs. Harrison of Scale How, Ambleside. It has 5 divisions, representing the Agony, the Ascent to Calvary, the Cruci- fixion, the Besurrection, and the Ascension. On the rt. is a 3-com- partment window by Edmonds of Manchester, in memory of the Brad- dylls, formerly of Conishead Priory. The brilliancy of colour displayed in the drapery of the figures in all the windows gives a very rich appearance to the ch. A stone in the S. side of the tower bears the date 1 154, which is supposed to be that of the original edifice. [J m. from the town is the village of Dragley Beck; and fronting the Bardsea road is a small cottage, the birthplace of Sir John Barrow; over the door is the motto, “ Paulum sufficit.” Swartmoor Haiti formerly the re- sidence of George Fox, the founder of the Quaker sect, 1 m. from Ulver- ston, on the road to Urswick, is a large irregular Elizabethan edifice. The place is of some historical inte- rest, as having been the place where the first regular meetings of the Society of Friends were held. The house was for a long period in a very dilapidated state ; but it has undergone Route l.—Swartmoof. 11 a complete renovation, and has been converted into a comfortable residence. A portion of it is occupied as a farm- house. There are some interesting old carved oak mantelpieces. One of the rooms is pointed out as having been the study of Judge Fell. The uppermost of the three front win- dows was that of Fox’s study, from which he is said to have occasionally preached. The house became the property of Fox on his marriage with the widow of Judge Fell, who was one of his first converts. In 1652, while travelling in Furness, Fox called at Swartmoor Hall, and in the absence of the Judge, then on cir- cuit, preached to Mrs. Fell and her daughters with so much success that they at once adopted the tenets of Quakerism. On his return the Judge was much distressed at the change which had taken place in the religious opinions of his family; whereupon Fox requested permission to explain his doctrines, which he did so much to the satisfaction of the Judge that he became a steady friend and disciple of Fox, and established a weekly meeting at the Hall. Fox married the Judge’s widow in 1669. She died at Swart- moor Hall in 1702. | m. from the house is the first Quakers’ meeting- house built in England. Swartmoor , 2 m. S.W. of Ulver- ston. The army which invaded England from Ireland, in 1487, to support the pretensions of the im- postor Lambert Simnel, and which included 2000 Burgundian merce- naries, encamped here. In 1643 there was an afiair at the same spot between the Parliamentary and the King’s forces, in which the latter were worsted. The High Constable of Furness wrote to the Parliament “On 16th of September there came an army into Furness, of 1500 men, Lord Molyneux, Sir George Middle- ton, and Sir John Girlington being chief commanders for the King. Our people thought to have kept them out, but they had three nights’ billet at Ulverstone, and took most part of our arms, and 500?., and plundered the place very sore. We (the Par- liamentarians), however, got together 1500 men, horse and foot, many of them out of Cumberland ; 8 companies of foot, and 3 troops of horse, all fire- men, except about 20, who had pikes ; they were all complete, and very stout fellows. They came to Ulverstone, and rested there that night ; and early on 1st October, 1643, being Sunday, they set forward, and had prayers on Swartmoor, which being ended they marched forward until they came to Lyndal, and there the foot halted, and the horse went on to Lyndal Castle, and drew up in a valley, facing and shouting at Col. Huddle- stone’s horse, who were drawn up on the top of Lyndal Close, who shouted also in return ; which lasted about an hour, while the foot was receiving powder, shot, and match ; which being ended, the foot marched up to the horse : then the King’s horse fled ; whereupon they raised a great shout, and pursued them very hotly, taking Colonel Huddlestone and 300 soldiers prisoners, besides 6 colours, 2 drums, and much money and apparel.” The Ulverston district has been called the Peru of Furness. The iron- mines are chiefly in the vicinity of Lindal and Dalton. Hollingshed says that the Scots in the reign of Edward II., during one of their raids into England, “met with no iron worth their notice until they came to Furness in Lancashire, where they seized all they could find, and car- ried it otf with the greatest joy ; and, although so heavy of carriage, they preferred it to all other plunder.” The iron-ore (haematite) is very rich, the best producing 16 or 17 cwt. of metal to the ton. The deposits are found in the carboni- ferous limestone, and vary in depth from 30 to 60 yards. The Furness mines produce between 700,000 and 12 Boute 1 . — Conisliead Priory — Bardsea. 800,000 tons a year, although 30 years ago all the iron - ore raised could be exported in one small vessel. “The mode in which that valuable ore of iron (haematite) was deposited in the pre-existing cavities of the carboniferous formation is matter of great geological interest ; joints, fissures, and caverns were formed in the older rocks antecedent to the deposition of the Permian strata ; and in these the ore of iron, so widely diffused throughout the Permian rocks in a portion of the N.W. region, assumed the character of haematite. The earlier Permian rocks of both England and Scotland are strongly impregnated with iron, their composition consisting princi- pally of silica and an oxide of this metal. This inference concerning the Permian age of the haematite has also been arrived at by Professor Phillips .” — Sir B. Murchison, ‘ Trans- actions R. G. Society, 1864.’ The deposits of “kidney ore” in the Ulverston district are, however, of more recent origin, being found in the fissures and hollows of the lime- stone. They in some places mark the presence of great irregular “ faults ; ” in others they have been precipitated in open water-worn caverns. In such cases the ore was probably introduced during the new red sandstone era, while the waters of the sea, saturated with red oxide of iron, flowed through the fissures and caverns of limestone, and filled them gradually up with the metallic matter held in partial solution. Large boulders of limestone are fre- quently found encased in the ore, together with clay and other sub- stances. The productiveness of these mines is a source of great prosperity to the neighbourhood. Conishead Priory (H. W. Askew, Esq.), 2 m. S.E. of Ulverston, is approached by a road through the park. The mansion is entirely modern, in a pseudo-Gothic style; it formerly belonged to the Brad- dyll family. The drive through the park to Bardsea presents some pleasing scenery. The grounds ex- tend to the shores of Morecamb Bay. The mansion stands on the site of an ancient priory, from which it derives its name. The priory was founded in the reign of Henry II., by Gamel de Pennington, assisted by the first Baron of Kendal, Wil- liam de Taillebois. It was first de- signed as an hospital for the poor of Ulverston, under the charge of the monks of the order of St. Augustine. The house, gardens, and conserva- tories are worth a visit, but they are not shown during the residence of the family. Near the park, after passing the S. lodge of Conishead Priory, on the rt. of the road stands Bardsey Hall, sheltered by lofty woods. It was once a hunting-seat of the Molyneux family, and is supposed to occupy the site of the ancient hospital of Bardsea, the oldest eccle- siastical establishment in Furness. It was for many years the seat of the Braddyll family, and afterwards of W. Gale,, Esq. From the top of the wooded hill behind the hall the sylvan scenery of Conishead park, and the wide expanse of Morecamb Bay, may be viewed to great advantage. 3 m. Bardsea ( Inn : Braddyll’s Arms, inferior, with poor accommo- dation). The village is situated on a hill which slopes gently down to the N. shore of Morecamb Bay. The Ch. is a modern erection, with a spire. The interior contains some handsome stained-glass windows. From the churchyard the whole of Morecamb Bay is seen, which at low tide pre- sents a wide tract of sand. Lan- caster is visible in the distance. From Bardsea a walk should be taken to the top of Birkrigg, 2 m., following the road which skirts the boundary wall of Bardsey Hall Park, until the common is reached. Proceed to the hamlet of Sunbreak, from thence Route 1 . — TJrsivich — Gleaston Castle — Dalton . 13 return to Bardsea by Wellwood (Mrs. Petty). From the top of Birkrigg the views are strikingly fine, in- cluding Morecamb Bay, the Irish Channel, the Isle of Man, the Yale of Ulverston, and many of the Westmorland and Cumbrian moun- tains. The “ Old Man ” mountain of Coniston is here a conspicuous object. 4 m. S. of Bardsea is Aldingham. The Ch. formerly belonged to the ancient manor of Muchland, which, tradition reports, included the vil- lages of Elios Lies and Crimelton, which, in consequence of the sub- sidence of this part of the coast, have been submerged, the sea at high tide now washing the churchyard wall. A statement of the boundaries and annual value of these parishes is preserved in the ancient records of Furness Abbey. The ch. is all that remains of the original village of Aldingham. A moat 1 m. from the ch. indicates the former site of a castle, or more probably of a beacon or watch-tower, which commanded a wide prospect of the coast and bay, and communicated with another at Lancaster. Urswich, 4 m. S. of Ulverston, is a village picturesquely situated in a valley close to a small tarn. The Ch. is very ancient, dating from the Conquest. The old massive embattled tower has 2 niches, one of which contains a mutilated figure of the Virgin Mary, to whom the ch. was dedicated. Some of the windows are lancet-shaped, and ornamented with tracery work ; others are plain and square-headed. There is an ancient piscina and some very old stained glass on the S. side of the chancel, and some curious brasses. The massive key of the S. door (Early Norm.) is a remarkable spe- cimen of mediaeval workmanship, and bears traces of having been gilt. Impressions of it have fre- quently been taken by archaeologists. The belfry contains a bell 370 years old. Gleaston Castle , 6 m. S., is believed to have been built by a Lord of Alding- ham, after the sea had swept away his original residence. The supposed date of the castle is some time between 1293 and 1457. The interior was enclosed by a thick wall, forming a parallelogram 288 ft. long, . 132 ft. broad, with towers at each angle. Two of these remain almost entire, but the one at the N. is much de- cayed, and the other at the E. is nearly undistinguishable. Of the interior nothing remains. Gleaston was once the property of the Duke of Suffolk, father of Lady Jane Grey. It is pleasantly situated in a valley, surrounded by well-cultivated hills. The position of the castle shows that it was intended rather for a private residence than a fortress. A good trout-stream flows past the ruin.] Proceeding from Ulverston by rly. to Furness Abbey, the first stat. is 3 m. Lindal Stat., near which the encounter between the King’s and Parliamentary forces took place in 1643. The iron-mines, with their tall chimneys, are conspicuous ob- jects. 4| m. Dalton Stat. ; a small town, the ancient capital of Furness. The Koman road from Maryport to Lancaster passed through it, and it was a Koman stat. The Manor Court of the Abbots of Furness was held here, the civil business of the monas- tery having been transacted in the square tower near the market-place. The town is now only remarkable as the centre of the iron district. It was the birthplace of Bomney the painter. Dalton was almost depopu- lated by the plague in 1631. The mines in the vicinity give employ- ment to a large population. In the ch. is an old stone font, said to have 14 Route 1 . — Furness Abbey. once belonged to Furness Abbey, and in tlie churchyard is the grave of Romney , marked by a plain stone with his name, and the words “ Pic- tor celeberrimus.” 7J m. Furness Abbey Stat. (Jim, The Abbey Hotel, excellent.) Fre- quent trains to Barrow, 2 m.; 6 daily to Ulverston ; 3 to Whitehaven, by the Whitehaven and Furness Ely. ; 3 to Coniston, 19 m. Change car- riages at the Foxfield Junction, 9 m. Furness Abbey. The remains of this fine example of the ecclesiastical architecture of the middle ages are most interesting. The style of the abbey was E. Eng., but, as addi- tions were made to it as its wealth increased, the architecture gradually assumed a mixed cha- racter, known as the Trans, style. The entrance was through 2 low Gothic arches. On the 1. is a small building, formerly used either as a porter’s lodge or an almonry. The abbey originated in a colony of monks from Savigny in Normandy, who at first settled at Preston, and afterwards migrated to this spot, then called Beckansgill, or the Valley of Deadly Nightshade. In a poem composed by one of the monks 4 ‘the deadly nightshade” is said to have been changed into a harmless plant, doubtless by the sanctity im- parted to the ground by the abbey and its inmates. “ Haec vallis tenuit olim sibi nomen ab herbS, Bekan, qua viruit dulcis nunc, tunc sed acerba ; Unde domus nomen Bekangill claruit ante, Jam patriae tan tie nomen partitur et omen.” The monks were invited by Ste- phen Earl of Boulogne and Mor- ton, afterwards King of England, to settle here and to build an abbey under his protection (1127). The sculptured heads of Stephen and his queen Maud are still seen, one on each side of the remains of the great E. window. In addition to the immense sum which must have been expended in the construc- tion of so magnificent an edifice, Stephen endowed the convent, not only with the lands lying contiguous to it, but with large estates in Lan- cashire, Yorkshire, and Cumberland, including the whole of Borrowdale, besides property in the Isle of Man and in Ireland. The annual revenue of the monastery at the time of its dis- solution in 1537 was 900Z., equivalent to 9000Z. at the present day. The abbey of Furness was a mother in- stitution, having under it Calder Abbey in Cumberland, Bushin Ab- bey in the Isle of Man, Fermor Abbey in Ireland, and six other monasteries, and it disputed with the A bbey of Fountains in Yorkshire the claim of being the first or parent Cistercian abbey in England. The vast property and extraordinary privileges conferred upon it by King Stephen were ratified by 12 succeed- ing kings. The society appointed its own sheriff, coroner, constables, and other civil officers. It held separate courts, and possessed the patronage of every church in the dis- trict but one. It was exempt from taxation, and levied fines according to its discretion. It possessed a criminal jurisdiction independent of the king. Special privileges were conferred upon it by 2 popes, and great wealth was showered upon it from time to time by opulent in- dividuals. It maintained a hospi- tium for strangers, schools for the education of the tenants’ children, and pensioned a numerous body of poor dependents. The strict rules of the order were gradually re- laxed at Furness as in the other Cistercian monasteries, of which there were not less than 85 in Eng- land 50 years after the introduction of the order. Furness Abbey be- came notorious for the relaxation of its discipline and its luxury. The society possessed ships of consider- able burden, with which it traded Boute 1 . — Furness Abbey. to foreign countries ; and the iron- mines in Furness, although they do not appear to have been very ex- tensively worked, supplied it with a valuable commodity for exchange. In the reign of Edw. I. the revenue of the abbey was estimated at a sum equivalent to 18,000?. of our present money. There were 33 monks at the time of the dissolu- tion, and 100 other inmates, includ- ing servants. The present hotel was the abbot's house. The abbey and its extensive range of offices were built of the red sandstone of the district, the softness of which did not admit of that minute and elaborate ornamentation which dis- tinguishes many of the other abbeys of England. The masonry work, however, was so good that portions of the walls still re- main as firm as if they had been just built. The boundary- wall en- closed an area of 65 acres, in which were bakeries, malt-kilns, brew- eries, granaries, gardens, fish-ponds, and all the other appurtenances of a rich and luxurious conventual establishment. The abbey having been first settled from Normandy, the language of the common people of the Furness district is said still to retain some French words and idioms, not met with elsewhere in Lancashire. The surrounding estates of the abbey included the whole of the promontory on which it is situated ; and to the N., as far as the division of the counties of Westmorland, Cumberland, and Lancashire, at the top of Wrynose, and the space be- tween Windermere on the E. and the river Duddon on the W. — a dis- trict as large as the Isle of Man. It possessed also in its tenantry a military force, numbering 1200 men, of whom 400 were horsemen, available against the inroads of the Scots in the Border wars. A body of these troops, commanded by Sir Edward Stanley, was present at the Battle of Flodden Field, and they 15 are thus referred to in the ancient ballad — “ From Bowland billmen bold were brun, With such as Bottom Banks did hide. From Wharemore up to Whittington, And all to Wenning water-side ; From Silverdale to Kent sand-side ; Whose soil is sown with cockle-shells ; From Cartmel also and Arnside, With fellows fierce from Furness Fells.” There was a beacon-tower on the hill above the abbey, which, on an alarm of invasion, flashed its fires across the Bay of Morecamb to the garrison of Lancaster. On the N. is the large transept-win- dow, its arch still perfect, but over- grown with ivy ; below is the princi- pal door, Early Norm. ; to the 1. are remains of several tombs of the abbots and of distinguished persons who were buried there. The transept is 129 ft. long and 28 ft. wide, and the ch. is 364 ft. from E. to W. The great tower rose from the centre of the transept, and was supported on 4 arches ; 3 of the pillars remain, and the E. arch is perfect. The arch of the great E. window is broken ; its stained glass was taken away to decorate the ch. of Bowness, where some of it still is. Below the great E. window stood the high-altar; the beautiful sedilia remain ; they are supposed to have been richly gilt, and, with the coloured capitals of the choir and nave, and the rich stained glass of the windows, the interior must have presented a very gorgeous appearance. On the ground within the choir are many monu- mental slabs, some bearing the arms of the first Barons of Kendal. There are effigies of 3 mailed crosslegged warriors of the age of Henry III. or Edward I. Upon the heads of 2 are cylindrical flat-topped helmets, with horizontal slits in the visors — very curious. The (knights lie on their right sides, the left covered with the shield, which doubtless once told the story. Ranged in some order are several very perfect tombs of eccle- siastics. 16 j Route 1. — Barrow . The Chapter-house is to the S. of the chancel, and was divided from it by a vestry and side - chapels. It must have been a very elegant building, and, even in its decay, furnishes exquisite subjects for the pencil. A pillar has been judici- ously reconstructed out of the frag- ments, and stands in its original upright position, with its elegant shaft and capital, giving some idea of what the room must have been when perfect. It measures 60 ft. by 45 ft. Its groined and fretted roof fell in some time in the last centy. The remains of the pillars which supported the 12 ribbed arches show the extreme beauty and simplicity of the design. Above the Chapter-house were the library and scriptorium ; beyond was the refectory, with rooms connected with it— one the locutorium, where the monks retired after dinner for conversation, and another the calefac- torium, also the lavatorium, which opened upon the garden. The kitchen and other offices communicated with these apartments. Outside the S. boundary-wall is a building supposed to have been either a schoolhouse or the hospitium. The W. end of the ch. was intended to bear a lofty belfry, but it was never erected, the softness of the stone, probably, not being able to bear the weight. This portion of the abbey is the most recent. In the hotel may be seen some good bas-reliefs, formerly ornaments of the abbey. Among them — Mary Magdalene anointing our Lord’s feet, the Woman with the Issue of Blood, John the Baptist, and St. J ohn. The great hall of the monastery was in the Early Dec. style, but is now a mere ruin. There are no remains of cloisters, but 3 very richly-moulded deep Norm, porches face the spot where they formerly stood. The abbey possessed great power, and was supreme throughout Furness. The whole pop. was in a state of vassalage to the house ; the mesne lords, on receiving the sum- mons of the abbot, provided their respective contingents for the service of the convent, and every tenant was bound to furnish a man and horse fully equipped for the Border wars, and for the protection of the coast. For a period of 400 years the abbots succeeded peaceably in their rule over this grand convent and its princely domains, receiving constant accessions of wealth. The abbey was formally surrendered to Henry VIII. by its last abbot, Koger Pyle. From that period it went gradually to decay, and much of its ornamental stonework and materials were carried away to decorate or build parish churches. The rooks and daws have had uninterrupted posses- sion of its ivied tower for 3 centuries. The ruin is the property of the Duke of Devonshire, who has taken judicious measures for its preservation. Those who may be curious to know the con- dition of the society at the period of its dissolution are referred to the Appendix of West’s ‘ History of the Abbey of Furness/ The best view of it is from a hill to the E. of the abbey, the spot where the beacon- tower formerly stood. Wordsworth has left, in one of his sonnets, a record of the impression which he received from the ruin : — “ Here, where, of havoc tired and rash un- doing, Man left this structure to become Time’s prey, A soothing spirit follows in the way That Nature takes, her counter-work pur- suing. See how her ivy clasps the sacred ruin, Fall to prevent or beautify decay ; And on the mouldering walls how bright, how gay, The flowers in pearly dew their bloom re- newing.” 10 J m. Barrow Stat. ( Inn : Royal Hotel). The town and the neighbour- ing island of Walney, and Peel Castle, can be reached in a few minutes from Furness Abbey. Barrow Island, 17 Route 1 . — Barrow: Docks. which is separated from the town by a narrow channel, is said to have been a favourite burial-place of the North- men, who desired their “barrows” should be on high and unenclosed spots, that they might be seen by travellers by sea and on land. The island, which is small, has been long under cultivation, so that no traces remain of the graves from which it pro- bably derived its name. The numerous islands on the S. of the peninsula have been called the “ Polynesia of Furness.” Barrow is the port from which the iron-ore of Furness is shipped. In the early part of the present centy. there was only 1 house on the peninsula on which Barrow now stands. A poor fishing village then sprang up, and increased rapidly to a considerable town, which was incorporated in 1867. There are few instances of so sudden a creation of a place of commercial importance. In 1847 the Pop. of Barrow was 325 ; in 1864 it amounted to 10,068, and in 1867 to 17,000. The great development of the Furness iron-mines has caused this rapid progress. In 1847 the rly. was first opened, and in that year it conveyed to the port 103,768 tons of iron-ore. In 1863 the quantity conveyed for shipment was 621,525 tons. The haematite iron-works of Messrs. Schneider and Co., 1 m. from the town, are well worth a visit ; 8 large furnaces are in constant blast, and are capable of turning out from 2000 to 3000 tons of metal per week. A model of the works was shown at the International Exhibition of 1862. The establishment comprises all the latest improvements in the art of smelting. The gas generated in the furnaces is utilised, both for light and heat, by being carried off in pipes to other portions of the works. 5000 tons of pig iron are produced weekly. The emptying of the large retorts holding 5 tons of metal is a remarkable sight. The metal when poured into the moulds is so “ lively ” that it must be covered up and weighted while at a white heat, other- wise, like quicksilver, it would rise up and overflow the moulds. In a portion of the factory where the metal is converted into steel by the Bessemer process, may be seen the formation of the steel into fabrics of different kinds. Steel rails, tires for wheels, &c., grow into shape with inconceivable rapidity. In illustration at once of the excellent quality of the steel here manufac- tured, and of the strength of the machinery, it may be mentioned that steel rails have actually been bent and twisted into a knot without ex- hibiting, when closely examined, any strain or flaw in the fibre. In conse- quence of the high percentage of the Furness haematite ore, its easy fusi- bility, intense heating property, and great strength, it is peculiarly adapted for conversion into steel. The steel works at Barrow, when in full opera- tion, can convert weekly about 1000 tons of pig iron into Bessemer steel, worth from 12 1. to 14Z. per ton. Yards for shipbuilding, rope walks, and brickworks, give employment to large numbers of people at Barrow. The town possesses a Mechanics’ Institute, a public library and read- ing-room. The ch. of St. George, in the Dec. style, is a handsome build- ing, and well placed. The Docks.— The channel divid- ing Barrow Island from the main- land has been converted, by enclos- ing it from the open sea at both ends, into extensive floating docks. Of these docks, next to their size — in which respect they stand nn- rivalled on this line of coast, with the exception of those at Birken- head — the great merit consists in the economy of their construc- tion. Although their total cost will be about 300,000?., it is alleged that no such docks in the kingdom will have been completed for so small a sum. The mode in which the site was turned to account is in the high- 18 Route 1 . — Peel Island . est degree ingenious. Of the nu- merous islands on the south side of the peninsula, the nearest, Barrow Island, was separated from the town by a narrow channel. The railway company, however, encroaching more and more upon the sea, reduced the distance between the island and the mainland until there was only a tide- way some few hundred yards in width left. This tide-way the engineers conceived the design of converting into floating docks, so that the island and the mainland should in future be one, with the space between no longer a free channel for the sea, but a basin in which vessels might float at all times of the tide. The southern face of Barrow Island has been ap- propriated for shipbuilding yards. The outer island, Walney, ten miles in length, serves as a natural break- water to Barrow, and it is estimated that around and in different parts of Barrow Island, which the railway company has purchased, there are ten miles of railway sidings. The docks are adapted for vessels of all sizes, the depth of water maintained being 22 ft. The stone quays are a mile and a half in length; the area of the Devonshire dock is 30 acres, that of the Buccleugh dock 33 acres, and of the timber-pond 35^ acres. The principal neighbouring islands are Old Barrow, Walney , Foulney , Pile of Fouldry or Peel Island , Boe Island , Dova Howe , and Ramsey. Walney is about 10 m. long, and 1 m. broad, and rises like a wall out of the sea, as its name denotes. It possesses a rich soil, and produces good grain- crops. The abbots of Furness erected dikes to prevent the irruption of the sea at high tides and in gales of wind ; but, after the dissolution of the monas- tery, these precautions were neglected, and the sea has several times since flowed over the island, doing im- mense damage. Inundations occurred in 1771, 1796, and in 1821; in the latter year the sea broke down part of the dike, and flooded many acres. Large flocks of seafowl haunt the island. At the S.E. end there is a lighthouse, 68 ft. high, erected in 1799. A branch rly. from Barrow to the extremity of the peninsula, opposite Peel Island, 4 m., has been carried by means of an embankment to Eoe Island, where there is a long pier. Steamers go daily from this pier to Douglas, Isle of Man, at 2 p.m. A steamer plies to and from Fleetwood 3 times a week during the summer. On the beach of Boe Island may be seen many large boulders of granite, which were transported during the glacial period from Shap Fells. Peel Island can be reached in a few minutes by a boat from Peel pier. The Castle was built by the monks of Furness in the reign of Edward III., for the protection of the harbour, and as a place of re- treat for the people of the neighbour- hood during hostile incursions from the Border. It was called the Pile of Foudry, from which it is evident that the island formerly bore the name of Foudry, or the Flame Island, from foudra , Norse for flame, and ey, an island. It is possible, there- fore, that there was an older for- tress, on the site of which the castle was built, and that it was originally an advanced beacon, in- tended to communicate with the watch-towers of Furness. The keep consisted of 3 stories, and was pro- tected by a double moat, walls, and flanking towers. In the exterior quadrangle stood the chapel. A con- siderable portion of the walls of the castle has been destroyed by the in- roads of the sea, and their fragments are scattered along the shore. The castle has been a place of some strength and importance. The but- tresses and the mullions of the win- dows are of red sandstone, but the mass of the building was constructed appa 19 Route 2. — TJlverston to Whitehaven. rently of the boulders collected from the beach, rudely but strongly cement- ed together. On the E. and S. sides the sea now covers a large extent of ruins, which are visible under water. On the 1ST. and W. sides the 2 moats, the double lines of wall, and the strong flanking towers give a good idea of the original strength/ and so- lidity of this ancient fortress.] KOUTE 2. ULVERSTON TO WHITEHAVEN, BY KIRKBY - IRELETH, BROUGHTON, HOLBORN HILL, RAVENGLASS, AND ST. BEES — WHITEHAVEN AND FUR- NESS ELY. For route as far as Furness Abbey, see p. 13. The line after leaving Furness Abbey passes through the Yale of Nightshade, and skirts the E. shore of the Duddon estuary nearly to Broughton. 6 J m. Kirkby-Ireleth Stat. On the rt. are the extensive slate-quarries belonging to the Duke of Devon- shire, in which several hundred work- men are employed. They produce some of the best roofing-slates in the kingdom, which are largely ex- ported from Barrow. The debris which cover the side of the hill have the appearance of military earth- works. The men employed in the quarries have to be let down by ropes for the purpose of boring pre- vious to blasting the slate. Some of the slates take a good polish, and exhibit fossils*. „ 9J m. Foxfield Junct. The rly. is continued by a single line to Coniston, 10 m. [1 m. from Foxfield is Broughton (Inns: the Old King’s Head; the King’s Head), a small neat town built on a gentle slope. Broughton Tower (John Sawrey, Esq.), an old em- battled, gloomy-looking mansion, on a hill above the town, is approached by an avenue of ancient firs. A portion of the N. side of the man- sion is all that remains of the ancient edifice. The walls are of immense thickness, but the interior has been considerably modernised. It ori- ginally belonged to Sir Thomas Broughton, who joined Lambert Simnel on his landing. The family of Broughton was of great antiquity, and the influence of Sir Thomas Broughton was so considerable that he was one of the prominent members of the confederacy which attempted to subvert the government of Henry VII. Sir Thomas is said to have fallen in battle ; but there is a tradition that he lived many years in concealment at Witherstack in Westmorland. The views from the grounds of Broughton Tower, which are open to tourists, both inland and towards the sea, will repay a short visit. There is nothing in the mansion itself that deserves notice.] 20 Route 2 .—Holborn Hill. 11 J m. Greenroad Stat. The Duddon is crossed by an embank- ment. 15 m. Holborn Hill Stat. (so called, probably, from Halbiorn, a Norse chief). Millom Castle may be visited from Holborn by a walk over the fields ; it is J m. from the village. The castle was embattled in 1335 by Sir J ohn Huddlestone. It was once sur- rounded by a fine park, which hasjbeen converted into arable and pasture land. Lysons, who wrote 2 centuries ago, says, “ The castle here, although an old and ruinous building, is made still the mansion of the present lord, who pleases himself more in his goodly demesnes, stately park, and plenty of timber and deer, and the great commodities which both sea and land afford him, than others do in their new-modelled dwellings and fine gardens, which embitter their pleasure by their charge/' The great square tower is occupied as a farmhouse, and its battlements have been taken down. The moat is still traceable. The castle was not of great extent ; a considerable portion of it is roofless, and the massive walls are clothed with luxuriant ivy. A flight of steps leads up to the keep. Above the archway a stone shield bears the now almost effaced arms of Huddlestone, which may be seen in better preservation on a slab built into the wall of the barn. There is a fine old carved staircase in the great tower. The lords of Millom were invested with extraordinary privileges, and pos- sessed “jura regalia'’ in six parishes. The gallows stood on a hill J m. from the castle, and were used as late as the middle of the 16th centy. A stone post which stands within a few yards of the rly. on the rt. from Broughton, and ^ m. from Holborn Station, marks this spot still called Gallows Bank. The stone bears the inscription — “On this spot the lords of Millom exercised jura regalia within their seignory." He Boyville, lord of Millom in the reign of Henry I., gave all the parishes between the Esk and Millom to the abbey of St. Mary at York, and the churches of Bootle and Whicham, and the land called Monk Force, to the abbey of Furness, “reserving only the harts and hinds, wild boars, and their kinds, and all the aeries of hawks thereon.” The castle was invested by the Parliamentary forces in 1648. Much of the timber of the park was cut down in the year 1690 by one of the Huddlestone family for smelting iron-ore and building a ship of large burden ; both proved unsuccessful speculations, and the demesne was needlessly despoiled of its greatest ornaments. The place was disparked by the Earl of Lonsdale in 1802, when 207 head of deer were killed, and veni- son was sold in Ulverston market for from 2 d. to 4 d. per pound. The Church is curious and interest- ing. The E. door is Early Norm. ; the pillars are alternately octagon and round, and have been fresh chiselled, a thick coating of plaster having been first removed. In the N. aisle is a curious window, unique of its kind, with 5 lights, called the fish- window from its fish-like shape. The other windows are in the Dec. style, and more modern than the rest of the ch. Near the E. window is an oc- tagonal stone font ornamented with quatrefoils, and with a shield bear- ing the arms of Huddlestone. The ch. also contains a tablet to the memory of Sir J ohn Huddlestone (1682), and a fine altar- tomb with elaborate Gothic tracery, the figures being a Sir J. Huddlestone and his 3»ady, both how- ever in a very mutilated condition. By its side is another altar- tomb with a much decayed wooden effigy, said to be that of a servant or follower of Sir J. Huddlestone, who saved his 21 Boute 2 . — Silecroft — Bavenglass. master’s life in battle. The very rich haematite iron-mines,. belonging to the Earl of Lonsdale, situated a short distance from the Holborn Hill Stat., are worth a visit. The ore is trans- ported in large quantities by rly. to the south, as well as by shipping to Wales. 18 m. Silecroft Stat., a small vil- lage at the foot of Black Combe, from which the mountain may be easily ascended. Black Combe rises in a succession of ridges almost from the margin of the sea to an elevation of 1969 ft. The summit is 4 m. from the shore. Black Combe, — “ From blackness named, And to far-travelled storms of sea and land A favourite spot of Tournament and War,”— does not possess the grand features of many of the Cumberland mountains, but the views from it are almost un- surpassed. The whole of the Furness peninsula, the islands to the S., the wide sweep of Morecamb Bay and the coast beyond, the towns of Bavenglass, Egremont, and St. Bees ; to the N. the vale of Duddon, and the Cumberland mountains,— form a panorama of great beauty and interest. Colonel Mudge, the Ord- nance Surveyor, saw Ireland more than once from the top of Black Combe when the sun was below the horizon : — “ Close by the sea, lone sentinel, Black Combe his forward station keeps ; He breaks the sea’s tremendous swell, And ponders o’er the level deeps. He listens to the bugle-horn Where Eskdale’s lovely valley bends, Eyes Walney’s early fields of corn, Sea-birds to Holker’s woods he sends.” The following is Wordsworth’s description of the view from Black Combe : — “ Here the amplest range Of unobstructed prospect may be seen Which British ground commands ; low dusky track Where Trent is nursed far southward, Cam- brian Hills To the south-west, a multitudinous show ; And in a line of eyesight linked with these, The hoary peaks of Scotland that give birth To Teviot’s stream, to Annan, Tweed, and Clyde. Crowding the quarter whence the sun comes forth, Gigantic mountains, rough with crags; be- neath, Right at the imperial station’s western base. Main ocean breaking audibly, and stretched Far into silent regions blue and pale, And visibly engirding Mona’s Isle.” On the E. side of the mountain is a craggy amphitheatre, which some geologists have thought to be the crater of an extinct volcano, from a curious cone-shaped mound which rises in the centre of the hollow. Some of the rocks have the appearance of vitrification, but there is no reason to suppose that any active volcano has ever existed in this or any other district of Lancashire, Westmorland, or Cum- berland. The lower side or edge of the basin is broken oif, and an exten- sive porphyry dike runs down into the vale on the S. “ The whole region of Black Combe belongs to the oldest slate formation, and has, at some remote period, been extruded from the bowels of the earth, and elevated into a position out of all symmetry with the structure of the neighbour- ing region.” — Sedgwick. The mass of the mountain is com- posed of Skiddaw slate, much con- torted, and, in some places, meta- morphosed by igneous action, as is shown in the protrusion of the por- phyry dike before referred to, and by several masses of basalt and syenite which overlie the slate. There are some Druidical remains, a small im- perfect circle, at Swinside, 4 m. from the foot of Black Combe. 23 m. Bootle Stat., a vill. situated on the bank of a small stream, If m. from the sea-shore, amidst pictur- esque and diversified scenery. i 22 Boute 2 . — Muncaster Castle. Bootle Fell rises directly above it; and Black Combe on the S.E. 26 m. Eskmeals Stat. 31 m. Bavenglass Stat. (Inn : King’s Arms), a decayed seaport on the banks of the estuary formed by the confluence of the rivers Irt, Mite, and Esk. It is a bar harbour, and is now almost deserted, but was a place of some importance when the gTeat Border fortresses, abbeys, and priories of the district supported a considerable trade, for the carrying on of which this port was well situated. There is a valuable salmon fishery. [Muncaster Castle, 1§ m. from the Stat., is the seat of the ancient family of the Penningtons. The cas- tle is finely situated on a command- ing height amidst fine woods, and commands views of great beauty over the whole of Eskdale. The park is extensive. The mansion is principally modern, the principal tower of the ancient castle only remaining. The whole underwent extensive repairs and alterations in 1865. The in- terior is not shown during the re- sidence of the family ; but the grounds may be seen at any time on application at the lodge. The terrace commands perhaps the finest view in Cumberland. The castle contains some good oak carvings, sculptured marble chimneypieces, and pictures. Henry YI. was enter- tained here on his flight after the bat- tle of Hexham, 1463. He was acci- dentally met by some shepherds in Eskdale, and conducted by them to Muncaster Castle. When the king left Muncaster he presented to Sir John Pennington an enamelled glass vase, called “the Luck of Muncas- ter.” The glass is carefully pre- served in the castle, and, according to tradition, the family would never want a male heir while it remained unbroken. The Penningtons took their name from the village of Pen- nington, in Furness, where they resided until 1242. The castle con- tains some interesting historical pic- tures, viz. : Caxton presenting the first book printed in England to Edward IY. ; Sir John Pennington, Lord High Admiral of England, 1642 ; and portraits of several other members of the Pennington family. The Church in the park is a pic- turesque object, with its ivy-mantled walls. On the apex of the gable at the E. end of the nave is a small turret which is supposed to have contained the “mass bell,” which was rung on the elevation of the Host, when the parishioners who were unable to attend mass, on hear- ing it, fell on their knees. The walls are covered with monuments of the Pennington family. One erected to Sir John Pennington, Lord High Admiral, 1646, bears the following testimony to his loyalty: “ The Parliament strongly invited him to enter into their service; but he never could be prevailed upon to serve against the king.” On the S. side of the churchyard there is an ancient cross.] 31 m. Drigg Stat. The rly. follows the line of coast. On the rt. the views of the mountains about Wast- water are very fine. The lake is 6 m. from Drigg, and may be con- veniently visited from this stat. Cars can be hired for the excursion. 33 m. Seascales Stat. (Inn : Sea- scales Hotel, small, but tolerably comfortable). The distance from Wastwater is about the same as from Drigg. Conveyances can be hired. The place is of recent crea- tion, and possesses a few small lodging-houses ; but there is nothing very inviting about it, unless it be its proximity to the sea, and to some of the finest scenery in the Lake district. 36 m. Sillafield Stat. The line of Route 2 . — St. Bees . 23 rly. is carried close to the sea, and the river Ehen is frequently crossed and recrossed. This stream, which issues from Ennerdale Lake, runs for some miles parallel with, and very close to the shore, and is sepa- rated from the sea only by a narrow bank of sand or shingle. 38 m. Bray stones St at. 40g m. Nethertown Stat. 43 m. St. Bees Stat. ( Inns : Royal Hotel ; Queen’s Hotel (commercial) ; Sea Cote Hotel, close to the sea ; also a boarding-house) . The coast is well worthy of being explored, the cliffs being very fine and composed of masses of red sandstone, disposed in horizontal layers of enormous thick- ness, intersected at irregular intervals by strata of light-coloured sandstone. Vast blocks, squared and piled up as if by art, resemble in many places the buttresses of a castle. The stone is rather soft, but hardens on exposure to the air. Many vertical fissures occur, into which the sea rushes at high water, un- dermining the cliffs above ; masses of sandstone are therefore constantly falling on the beach. The sea is said to have formerly flowed inland be- tween St. Bees and Whitehaven, of which there are some traces, the soil at a slight depth being intermixed with sand and shells. There is a tradition of an anchor having been dug up in a field at a considerable distance from the sea-shore. — (For a geological notice of the coast see Introduction , p. xiii.) At St. Bees Head, and on other parts of the shore, the botanist will find Veronica anagallis, Lycopsis arvensis, Crithmum maritimum, Brassica monensis, and Geranium sanguineum. The town is built chiefly on the ridge of a long narrow valley. A chantry was established here a.d. 650, by Bega, an Irish female saint, from whom the town derives its name : — “ When Bega sought of yore the Cumbrian coast, Tempestuous winds her holy errand crossed ; She knelt in prayer, the waves their wrath appease, And from her vow, well-weighed in Heaven’s decrees, Bose where she touched the strand the Chantry of St. Bees.” Of the origin of the convent and its endowment there is the following legend : — The ship containing St. Bega, and several of her sisters, was driven by a tempest on the coast of White- haven and wrecked. The Lady of Egremont Castle, pitying their mis- fortune, desired her lord to give them a place to dwell in, which he accordingly did, and they “ sewed, spun, and wrought carpets, and did other work, and lived such godly lives as got them much love.” The Abbess then desired the Lady of Egremont to ask her lord to build them a goodly house ; where- upon the Lady Egremont spoke to her lord, telling him that he had land enough, and ought to give some of it to the Abbess and her sisters, that he might lay up for himself treasure in heaven. But the Lord of Egremont only laughed, and said that he would give them just so much land as snow should fall upon in the following morning, being Midsummer-day. On the morrow, when the Lord and Lady of Egre- mont looked out of their chamber- window, the ground was white with snow from Egremont to the sea, — - a miraculous event brought to pass, according to the legend, by the prayers of the saint; whereupon the Abbey of St. Bees was built and en- dowed with all the land upon which the snow had fallen, including the site of the present town of White- haven. In the reign of Henry I., William de Meschines restored the religious 24 Route 2 . — Whitehaven Coal-field. house of St. Bees, which had been dissolved, and established a Bene- dictine Priory, related to St. Mary’s Abbey, York. The Collegiate Cli. consists of a nave, with aisles, a choir, and tran- septs, with a low square tower at the intersection. The W. front of the nave has three lancet windows and a fine Norm, doorway. The nave has 6 pointed arches on each side, the pillars alternately hexagonal and circular, excepting one which is clustered. The nave is now used as a parish ch. The N. transept has been converted into a library. At the E. end of the choir are 3 beautiful lancet windows, the centre higher and wider than the others, and between each are 2 tiers of niches, one above the other, with clustered shafts and ornamented capitals. The N. side of the choir is lighted by lancet windows, the interior shafts being plain, and the exterior filleted. The modern college for the educa- tion of candidates for holy orders was established in 1817 by Dr. Law, Bishop of Carlisle, and it has been liberally supported by the Earls of Lonsdale. The choir of the priory ch., which had been roofless for 2 centuries, was repaired and appro- priated to the use of the college. The students are required to be well instructed in the classics before ad- mission. The Sea Cote Hotel was built by the Earl of Lonsdale for the accom- modation of visitors, and is much fre- quented for sea-bathing. Board and lodging at 2 guineas per week. The bay is well sheltered. The promon- tory of St. Bees Head, and its light- house, are within an easy walk, and the cliff scenery and fine expanse of sea make it a pleasant excursion. At low water the beach may be followed from St. Bees to the head- land. “ No one plucks the rose Whose proffered beauty in safe shelter blows ’Mid a trim garden’s summer luxuries, With joy like his who climbs on hands and knees, For some rare plant, the headland of St. Bees.” — Wordsworth. The shore abounds in sea ane- mones, star-fish, &c., and is as interest- ing to the naturalist as any part of the coast of Devon. Near the Lighthouse, which forms the commencement of Solway-Firth, is a beautiful little bay called Fles- wick, which lies at the base of lofty cliffs, and is much resorted to in summer for picnics. 48 m. Whitehaven Stat. (Inns: Globe ; Albion ; Golden Lion ; Black Lion), a flourishing seaport. Pop. 18,842 ; in 1831 it amounted to only 11,933. The town is situ- ated on the shore of a fine bay, and the houses are built chiefly on the sides of a ravine. The streets are regular, and cross each other at right angles. The neighbouring country is bare, and is undermined in every direction by the pits and galleries of coal-mines, which have been worked for a great length of time, and form the chief support of the place. The mines are provided with tramways from the pits to the piers, and vessels are laden with the greatest facility. The coal-mines of Whitehaven are most interesting. The shafts and galleries not only penetrate the ad- jacent hills, but their ramifications extend for 3 m. *under the sea. The handsome building on the 1. of the harbour, resembling a castle with a lofty columnar chimney, is the engine- house of the Wellington Pit (150 fathoms deep), one of the most im- portant mines in the country. Its passages are lofty, airy, and lined with masonry. The upper galleries communicate with those of the Wil- liam Pit (103 fathoms deep), on the rt. of the harbour. The workmen are thus enabled to pass from one 25 Boute 2 . — Whitehaven Coal-field . mine to the other by submarine pas- sages descending on one side of the harbour and ascending on the other. Plans of the mines may be seen at the office in Lowther Street. “ One who has any feeling for the wonders of the old world, or any interest in the power of human skill, will do well to visit the Whitehaven coalfield. The enormous under- ground excavations, the costly ma- chinery, the living world many hun- dred feet below the surface of the earth, the streams of gas perpetually rising from the coal-beds, the great breaks and contortions of the solid strata, the prodigious influence the mineral treasures are exercising ov6r the whole civilized world, are as- suredly subjects of no common in- terest, considered either physically or morally .’ ' ’ — Sedgwick (see Introduc- tion.) These mines are the pro- perty of the Earl of Lonsdale, and are worked by agents on his behalf. The Wellington Pit and William Pit are the two great mines which chiefly support the coal trade of Whitehaven. The mechanical con- trivances for economising labour and effecting the transport of the coal to the ships are admirable. The William Pit was (1864) raising 400 tons of coal every 24 hours, and 50 horses were kept permanently underground, some •of them not having seen daylight for 20 years. The Wellington Pit is a mine of even greater importance, and the workings are deeper in consequence of the dip of the strata being to the S.W., making a difference of nearly 50 fathoms in the relative depth of the 2 mines. A temporary suspen- sion of the working of the Welling- ton Pit took place in 1863 in consequence of the lowest seam (13 ft. thick) having been acci- dentally ignited by the fire from a stationary steam-engine employed underground instead of horse-power. It was found impossible to extinguish the flames except by letting the sea into the pit, for which purpose a \_Wedm. & Cumb.~\ boring was made near high-water mark, through which the water was permitted to flow for a week to the lowest levels, which, in 1864, had been under water for 12 months without any certainty that the fire had even in that time been com- pletely extinguished. The coal exported from White- haven in 1862 amounted to 196,294 tons, but in 1863 only to 151,583 tons ; the falling off having been occasioned by the diminished returns from the Wellington Pit from the accident referred to. The other great export from Whitehaven is iron- ore (haematite) from the neighbour- ing mines. • The great feature of Whitehaven is its Harbour and the noble West Pier, one of the finest structures of the kind in England. It ex- tends 365 yards into the sea, is 57 ft. high and 60 ft. broad, and is built of sandstone obtained from the neighbouring quarries. It was designed by Sir John Kennie, and forms a fine promenade. The area of the harbour is 60 acres. The Castle is a plain mansion occa- sionally occupied by the Earl of Lons- dale. The churches are remark- able for nothing but their extreme ugliness. Paul Jones the notorious pirate landed here in 1778 with 30 men from an American privateer, and burnt 3 ships in the harbour. He had been apprenticed in the town in his youth, and fitted out a ship at Nantes expressly for the expedition. He was obliged to re-embark precipi- tately, but he took the precaution of first spiking the guns of the battery. Conveyances. — Steam-packets to Liverpool, Belfast, Dublin, and the Isle of Man twice a week. Ely. to Workington, Cockermouth, Mary- port, and Carlisle — trains 4 times a day; and by the Furness Ely. to Drigg (for Wastwater), Broughton, Coniston, Furness Abbey, Ulver- ston, and Lancaster, 3 times a day. c 26 Route 3 . — Lancaster to Ambleside, EOUTE 3. LANCASTER TO AMBLESIDE, BY CARNFORTH, MILNTHORPE, OXEN- HOLME, AND KENDAL — BAIL. BOWNESS AND WINDERMERE LAKE. 6 m. Carnfortli Stat. The line branches off here to Ulverston (Kte. 1), jnst before passing the small station of Burton . 7J m. Milnthorpe Stat., Pop. 800 ( Tnns : Cross Keys, King’s Arms), a small market-town, and a dependent seaport of Lancaster, resorted to in the summer months as a watering- place. The lodging-houses are very humble, but there is a fine ex- panse of sand at low water. The town is well built, the E. part is the most modern. There are a few paper-mills. The parish ch. is at Heversham, 1 m. from the town. The style is Early Eng., but some por- tions are Norm. There are some ancient monuments of the Belling- ham and Preston families, and a handsome memorial window to Col. Howard. Bishop Watson, the author of the 4 Apology for the Bible/ was a native of Heversham, and was edu- cated at its grammar school. [2 m. S. of Milnthorpe is the pretty village of Beetham , on the river Boetha, which is crossed by a bridge of 3 arches. The walk is an interesting one, keeping the Beetha and its wooded banks to the rt. The ch., dedicated to St. Michael, is partly Norm., with round and octagon pillars, and an intermixture of pointed and semicircular arches. The S. door is Early Norm. On the S. side of the chancel is an altar-tomb with 2 effigies, representing Sir Thos. de Beetham and his lady, the latter in her shroud with hands clasped. The figures are much defaced. There is much carved oak work on some of the seats, and the windows are decorated with ancient and some modern stained glass. I m. S.W. of Milnthorpe is Dallam Tower (Gr. Wilson, Esq.), beautifully situated on the banks of the Kent, in an extensive deer-park, backed by wooded hills. The park, which con- tains some fine beeches, is entered by a stone bridge with a single arch over the river Beetha. The mansion, built in 1720, commands fine views of the Cartmel peninsula, Whitbar- row Scar, and Lythe Fell, on the opposite side of the Kent, and of Silverdale. The river Beetha is a capital trout-stream, and the Kent, above Milnthorpe, also affords ex- cellent sport. Permission to fish these waters can be generally ob- tained through the landlord of the Cross Keys.] II m. Oxenholme Stat. Here the line branches to Kendal and Win- dermere, the main line proceeding to Penrith and Carlisle. A change of carriages takes place here. From the stat. there is a pleasing view of Ken- dal and its old castle, 1 J m. distant. 12 § m. Kendal (Inns: the King’s Arms ; Commercial ; Crown ; Angel). Pop. 12,000, of whom 3000 are em- ployed in the woollen manufactories. Kendal is virtually the metropolis of Westmorland, although not the county town, and is pleasantly situ- Konte 3 .- ated on the banks of the Kent. There are 8 considerable manufac- tories ; carpets, combs, cards, rough blankets, linseys, horse-cloths, rail- way wrappers, &c., are produced. The “ three misbegotten knaves in Kendal green,” of Shakspeare, wore the green serge or drugget made here. Kendal green was also the dress of Robin Hood and his “ merry men.” The town consists of two principal streets, from which others diverge. The houses are of limestone, quar- ried from the fells above the town. [1£ m. S.W. of the town is the bold eminence of Scout Scar, composed of limestone, with its escarpment facing W. It commands very striking views over the southern portion of the Lake district. Several beds of carboni- ferous limestone are here exposed, and yield abundantly the shells and fossils characteristic of that formation, in- cluding several hundred species of bivalve and univalve shells, fishes’ teeth and bones, specimens of all which may be seen in the Natural History Museum of the town. “ Part of the upper Ludlow rocks of the Silurian system may be seen crop- ping out beneath the limestone, and rising through the peat moss in rounded masses in various parts of the valley below. A walk round the S. extremity of the Fell will amply repay t the geologist, by a beautiful section through the limestone and Silurian beds down to the level of the moss ” — Sedgwick. The travelled blocks of greenstone and granite which rest on the top and sides of the Fell will not escape observation.] Kendal was incorporated in the reign of Elizabeth, and is said to have been one of the first towns in England that published a provincial newspaper. It was made a borough on the disfranchisement of Appleby, the county town, under the Reform Act of 1832, and returns 1 M.P. -Kendal. 27 Many of the best houses have portes cocheres , as in continental towns. The Church is almost the only pub- lic building which deserves a visit. It covers a large space, and is nearly square in consequence of the great breadth of the aisles, additions hav- ing been made to it from time to time, which have given its architec- ture a very mixed character. The side chapels have also been incorporated with the church. On each side of the altar are 2 oratories long used as the burial-places of distinguished families who resided in the neigh- bourhood. The monument of Sir Roger Bellingham and his wife, 1533, is worthy of notice. The E. and some other windows are filled with modern stained glass. There was a piscina of very early date (1201), but it has been removed from its original position and placed in the vestry, and a new one substituted for it. In one of the side chapels is the tomb of a vicar of Kendal who wrote his own epitaph, comprising an epitome of his life, in quaint doggrel. The helmet suspended in the N. aisle belonged to the redoubtable Major Philipson (Robin the Devil), of Belle Isle, Windermere, who rode into the church during Divine service in search of Colonel Briggs, an officer in Cromwell’s army, who had made himself particularly ob- noxious to the major. The incident is referred to by Sir W. Scott, in ‘ Rokeby — “ The outmost crowd have heard a sound, Like horse's hoof on hardened ground ; Nearer it came, and yet more near, — The very deaths-men paused to hear. ’Tis in the churchyard now— the tread Hath waked the dwelling of the dead ! Fresh sod, and old sepulchral stone, Return the tramp in varied tone. All eyes upon the gateway hung, When through the Gothic arch there sprung A horseman armed, at headlong speed — Sable his cloak, his plume, his steed. Fire from the flinty floor was spurned, The vaults unwonted clang returned ! ’* C 2 28 Monte 3 . — Kendal. Sir Walter Scott in a note gives the following account of this strange occurrence : — • “Belle Isle, on Windermere, for- merly belonged to the Philipsons, a family of note in Westmorland. During the civil wars, two of them, an elder and a younger brother, served the king. The former, who was the proprietor of it, commanded a regiment ; the latter was a major. “ The major, whose name was Robert, was a man of great spirit and enterprise ; and for his many feats of personal bravery had ob- tained, among the Oliverians of those parts, the appellation of Robin the Devil. “ After the war had subsided, and the direful effects of public opposi- tion had ceased, revenge and malice long kept alive the animosity of in- dividuals. Colonel Briggs, a steady friend to usurpation, resided at this time at Kendal, and, under the double character of a leading magis- trate (for he was a justice of peace) and an active commander, held the country in awe. This person, having heard that Major Philipson was at his brother’s house on the island in Windermere, resolved, if possible, to .seize and punish a man who had made himself so particularly obnoxi- ous. How it was conducted my authority does not inform us — whe- ther he got together the navigation of the lake, and blockaded the place by sea, or whether he landed and ^carried on his approaches in form. Neither do we learn the strength of the garrison within, nor of the works without. All we learn is, that Major Philipson endured a siege of eight months with great gallantry, till his brother, the colonel, raised a party and relieved him. “It was now the major’s turn to make reprisals. He put himself, therefore, at the head of a little troop of horse, and rode to Kendal. Here, being informed that Colonel Briggs was at prayers (for it was on a Sunday morning), he stationed his men properly in the avenues, and himself, armed, rode directly into the church. It is said he intended to seize the colonel and carry him off ; but as this seems to have been totally impracticable, it is rather probable that his intention was to kill him on the spot, and in the midst of the con- fusion to escape. Whatever his in- tention was it was frustrated, for Briggs happened to be elsewhere. “The congregation, as might be expected, was thrown into great con- fusion on seeing an armed man on horseback make his appearance among them ; and the major, taking advantage of their astonishment, turned his horse round, and rode quietly out. But having given an alarm, he was presently assaulted as he left the assembly, and, being seized, his girths were cut, and he was unhorsed. “ At this instant his party made a furious attack on the assailants, and the major killed with his own hand the man who had seized him, clapped the saddle, ungirthed as it was, upon his horse, and, vaulting into it, rode full speed through the streets of Ken- dal, calling his,, men to follow him ; and with his whole party made a safe retreat to his asylum in the lake. The action marked the man. Many knew him ; and they who did not, knew as well from the exploit that it could be nobody but Robin the Devil.” The new cli. of St George is a handsome building. The Museum of the Natural History Society con- tains numerous Westmorland mine- rals, fossils, &c. &c., and other ob- jects of general interest. The Castle is J m. from the town. The ruins are not extensive, and consist only of four greatly dilapi- dated towers, with portions of the surrounding walls. Little is known of the history of this castle. It be- 29 j Route 3 . — Kendal — Sizergh Hall. longed to the barony of Kendal, and its construction is assigned to the 12th or the early part of the 13th century. The round tower is the most perfect, and was probably the strongest part of the castle. Under one of the towers is a dungeon with a conical roof. The entrance was on the N. ; to the S. is a postern ; to the E. are the remains of 2 vaulted chambers, pro- bably kitchens or cellars ; above were the hall and principal apartments. A moat, cut out of the limestone, encircles the whole. In advance of the N. side are the remains of an outwork, with a mound and ditch. The walls were low. The upper chamber of the dungeon or W. tower is inaccessible, nor are there any re- mains of a door or staircase. Judg- ing from the fragments which re- main, there is nothing either of Norm, or of E. Eng. in the plan or masonry. It was the birthplace of Catherine Parr. After Ivo de Taillebois, of the House of Anjou, came over with the Conqueror, he won the heart and lands of Lucy, sister of the Saxon Earls Edwin and Morcar, and thus obtained a portion of Lancashire and that portion of Westmorland called the “Barony of Kendal.” The barony became extinct from failure of male heirs in 1334 ; and the presumed last descendant of this ancient line, Emily Tailbois, died in 1863 a pauper in Shrewsbury workhouse. Henry V. made his brother John Duke of Bed- ford and Earl of Kendal ; and after John’s death the Crown created Henry Beaufort Duke of Somerset and Earl of Kendal. After Beau- fort’s death, Henry VI. conferred the title on a foreigner, John, son of Gaston de Foix, with whom it ex- pired. The first Duke of Kendal was Charles, son of James Duke of York. He died an infant. Prince George of Denmark on his marriage with the Princess Anne was created Duke of Cumberland and Earl of Kendal. With him the title again expired, but George II. created his foreign mis- tress, Madame Yon Schulemberg, Duchess of Kendal, since whose death the title has been dormant. On the opposite side of the river Kent, facing the castle, is a circular eminence called Castle- brow Hill t surrounded by a moat, and supposed to be of Saxon origin, and a place for the adminis- tration of justice. On the top is an obelisk erected to commemorate the Revolution of 1688. There was a Roman station at Kendal, 1 m. below the town at Watercrook, where a garrison was posted for the security of Ambleside and Overborough. The line of the fosse may still be traced. Several altars, inscriptions, and other Roman remains, now de- posited in the museum of the town, have been found near it. The neighbourhood of Kendal, particularly Scout Scar, will be found interesting to the botanist. On Kendal Fell, above the limekilns, will be found Arenaria verna (vernal sandwort), Spergula nodosa, Gentiana amarella and campestris, Asperula cynanchica, Polypodium calcareum, and Poterium sanguisorba; and on Scout Scar, Helianthemum canum, Hippocrepis comosa, Thalictrum minus, Geranium sanguineum or bloody crane’s-bill, Hypericum hir- sutum. A great variety of fresh- water shells may be collected in the vicinity. Trains to Windermere, 10 m., 8 times daily, time 20 min. ; and to Lancaster, Penrith, and Carlisle from the Oxenholme Junction, 4 times daily. Keswick may be reached by railway, via Penrith, in 3J hours, distance 48 m. [ Sizergh Hall (W. C. Strickland, Esq.), 3 m. S., is an ancient fortified mansion, and consists of a centre and 2 wings. The great tower or peel, at the S.E. corner, 60 feet high, remains 30 Route 3 . — Levens Hall — Windermere . entire. In the corners of this tower are closets for watchmen, with ob- lique apertures in the wall, so that no weapon or missile could enter the apartment beyond. The centre part has been considerably altered and modernised. In the lower wing, which is very ancient but not embattled, are a modern breakfast-room and a dining-room wainscoted with oak in ancient panel work. In the three upper stories of the great tower are the chapel, plain and modern, and the drawing-room, finely wainscoted with oak. Opposite, on the same floor, is the principal bedroom, orna- mented with Gobelin tapestry, and which has received the name of the Queen’s Room, from Catherine Parr having occupied it after the death of her husband Edward Lord Burgh, and before her marriage with Jolm Neville, Lord Latimer. A magnifi- cent counterpane and toilet-cover are shown as her work. The oak wainscoting is very fine and nearly all of one period. There is a remnant of old cane-work pat- tern in the library. There is a fine specimen of veneering in a room called the Inlaid Room, in which the panels of the bed are variegated with holly and fossil oak. The cor- nice of this bed is surmounted with a shield bearing the Strickland and Delincourt arms, in oak ; date 1568. The interior is shown only in the absence of the family. Levens Hall (the Ron. Mrs. Howard) is an old manorial house, 5 m. S. of Kendal, on the banks of the river Kent. It is an ancient seat of a branch of the family of the Howards. In the gardens the yews (some of which are 200 years old), hollies, and other trees are clipped into the most fantastic shapes, such as bottles, dumb-waiters, birds, &c. ; one is made to resemble a judge’s wig, and another an oven. They were laid out by Beaumont, who designed the Hampton Court Gar- dens. There is a portrait of him in the house, which possesses some fine oak carvings. In the dining - room Samson and Her- cules are represented supporting the carved mantelpiece, which is adorned with emblematic figures of “ the four elements, the five senses, and the four seasons.” The carved decorations of this room are said to have cost 3000Z. The house con- tains some good tapestry. Among the pictures are portraits of Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyn, and a few by Sir Peter Lely. The park is stocked with deer and well-wooded, and is adorned with avenues of much beauty.] Proceeding from Kendal to Win- dermere, the first stat. is 2 m. Burne- side, a small village at the termina- tion of the valley of Long Sleddale. 17 m. Stavely Stat. The scenery here becomes very striking, and indi- cates that the mountain region is not far distant. The hills are well wooded, and present many picturesque views. There is a small woollen manufactory, and several bobbin- mills, for which the Kent supplies motive power. 21 m. Windermere Stat. {Inn: Windermere Hotel, very good and reasonable). The lake is not visible from the rly. until the stat. is nearly reached, when a glimpse of it is caught towards the W., lying under wood- crowned heights. The mountains which cluster round its N. extremity are just visible in the distance. From the terrace of the hotel a consider- able portion of the lake is seen, and the first view of this beautiful sheet of water is calculated to raise the highest expectations. The village of Windermere, formerly called Birth- waite, is 1| m. from the lake. Since it was made a rly. terminus it has become a place of some importancq, and it is adorned with numerous villas in the Gothic style. A noble pano- ramic view of Windermere is obtained from Orrest Head , a hill a little above Route 3 .— Windermere — Bowness. 31 the hotel. Elleray formerly the re- sidence of Professor Wilson (Chris- topher North) lies on the rt. at a short distance from the station. The views from the grounds, which are not shown, are unequalled, and the whole of Windermere Lake can be seen from them. “The pecu- liar and not-to-be-forgotten feature of the scene from Elleray is the great system of mountains which unite about 5 m. off at the head of the lake, to lock in and enclose this noble landscape. The several ranges which stand at various distances within 6 or 7 m. of Ambleside, all separately various in their forms and all eminently picturesque, appear to blend and group as parts of one connected whole ; and when their usual drapery of clouds happens to take a fortunate arrangement, and, the sunlights are properly broken and thrown from the most suitable quarter of the heavens, I cannot recollect any spectacle in England or Wales, having a local if not a national reputation for magnificence of pro- spect, which so much delights with a sense of power and aerial sublimity as the terrace view from Elleray.” — De Quincey* Conveyances from the Windermere Stat. — Coaches 3 times a day to Ambleside, Grasmere, and Keswick. Omnibuses, on the arrival of every train, for Bowness, 1J m. Trains to Kendal and the S. frequently during the day. [A visitor passing a few days at Windermere, and not intending to make a complete tour of the Lake district, will find an excursion over the Fells to Mardale and Hawes- water through the Kentmere Yalley, 8 m., very interesting. The head of Kentmere is deservedly celebrated as one of the most beautiful mountain groups in the district. Two routes * This description will equally apply to the view from Orrest Head, which, being on the unenclosed fell, is always accessible. may be taken — one through Trout- beck, but it is scarcely advisable to attempt it without a guide ; the other from Stavely, taking the rly. to that place, 4 m., and commencing the ascent of the Kentmere valley from the stat. The upper part of the valley divides, the 1. branch passing under High Street, the rt. leading to the Nan Bield Pass by a gradual ascent ; the ridge to be crossed is that which connects Harter Fell with High Street. Zig- zag paths lead up to the summit of Nan Bield, from which Haweswater is seen in the hoi ,w below. The bridle-road descends abruptly into Mardale. Small Water, a picturesque tarn, lies to the 1. The small inn at Mardale Head is 1 m. from Hawes- water (Kte. 13).] Bowness , 1| m. from Windermere Stat. ( Inns : Royal Hotel ; Crown Hotel ; Yictoria). Steam yachts ply every 2 hrs. between Bowness and Lake Side at the foot of the lake, and Waterhead, the oppo- site extremity, 1 m. from Amble- side, calling at Low Wood and the Ferry opposite Bowness. Boats are kept for excursions and fishing parties. There is a coach every morning to Ullswater, where the steamer meets it and takes pas- sengers to Pooley Bridge : coach on to Penrith : rly. Penrith to Keswick, reaching it before 3 o’clock. The Church is very old and was dedicated to St. Martin. The fine stained glass in the E. window be- longed to Furness Abbey, as some suppose, or to Cartmel Priory Ch. Very little of the design can be traced, in consequence of the imperfect man- ner in which the glass has been put together, or subsequent injury. The window is divided into three com- partments, one of which is said to represent St. George and the Dragon, others the Crucifixion. Above are the arms of France and England, and a] group of monks in their habits, 32 Route 3 . — Belle Isle — Windermere Lake. with their names on scrolls under- neath. The whole is surrounded by a border of armed figures and tracery, with the armorial bear- ings of different families, benefac- tors to the Abbey. Bishop Watson was buried in the churchyard near the E. window, and there is a neat monument to his memory in the ch. In 1865 some interesting traces of the Keformation were discovered on removing the whitewash and plaster from the walls, consisting of a great number of texts, with comments on them, explanatory of the new doc- trines. Belle Isle , or Cui wen’s Island, is nearly opposite Bowness, and com- prises about thirty acres prettily wooded, with a mansion in the mid- dle. Visitors are permitted to walk in the grounds. The island was a stronghold of the royalists during the civil wars, and was the property of the Pliilipsons, an ancient family of Westmorland, of whom there are some monuments in the ch. of Bow- ness. There are several spots near Bow- ness whence fine views of the lake are to be obtained, especially from Bisket How, a rocky eminence to the E., and also from a field on the 1. of the road leading to Windermere village, and especially from Miller Brow (The Priory, W. Carver, Esq.), I m. on the Ambleside road. The woods of Calgarth here form a fore- ground to a landscape of wonderful beauty, including the whole of the upper reach of the lake, Coniston Old Man, and Langdale Pikes. A short distance from Bowness, near the shore of the lake, is Bayrigg , an old mansion-house once occupied for a short time by William Wilberforce. Conveyances . — A coach daily dur- ing the season from the Ferry Inn opposite Bowness to Coniston, 10 m., for the rly. to Furness Abbey, which may thus be conveniently visited from Bowness or Windermere Stat. A coach to Patterdale for Ulls- water daily 10 m. Steamers every 2 hrs. to Waterhead for Ambleside, and to Lake Side at the foot of the lake. There is a pleasant footpath to the ferry 1 m. across the fields. The ferry-boat conveys carriages and passengers across the lake in J hour. A few minutes’ walk from the ferry inn is a summer-house called the Station , belonging to the pro- prietor of Curwen’s Island. Each window is filled with differently- coloured glass. The effect produced is singular. Windermere is the largest of the English lakes, being 10 m. in lengthy in circumference somewhat less than 23 m., but in breadth it rarely exceeds 1 m. Its principal affluents are the Rothay, the Brathay, Cunsey Beck,, and the Troutbeck river. Its effluent is the Leven, which after a course of 5 m. enters Morecamb Bay. The water of Windermere is particularly clear, and the lake preserves a ge- nerally uniform level. Trout, pike, perch, and char abound in it, and salmon are occasionally taken. The scenery of its banks is soft, except- ing in its N. reach, where, in con- sequence of the proximity of the Langdale Pikes, and Bowfell, one of the most picturesque of the Cumber- land mountains, it rises into grandeur. To see it thoroughly many excur- sions would be required. A consi- derable portion of it, however, has the appearance rather of a river than a lake. From Bowness to its S. extre- mity both banks are richly wooded, but the hills are only of moderate elevation. An excursion down the lake is recommended before its higher reach is visited. Leaving Bowness for Lake Side* the steamer first touches at the ferry, where there is a good inn. On the promontoiy to the 1. is Storrs Hall (Rev. T. Stanifortli). The mansion is finely situated * bnt 33 Boute 3 . — Storrs Hall — Newby Bridge. the interior is not shown during the residence of the owner. It was built by Sir John Legard, and was often visited by Mr. Canning during the proprietorship of Mr. Bolton. In 1825 Canning, Scott, Wordsworth, and Wilson, “the Ad- miral of the Lake,” as Mr. Can- ning called him, assembled there, and the reunion of so many illustrious persons was celebrated by a bril- liant regatta on Windermere, over which “Christopher North” pre- sided. The mansion contains some pictures of great merit. The col- lection was formed by Mr. Bolton. The following enumeration of them is from Waagen’s ‘ Galleries and Cabinets of Art in Great Britain:’ — Lot and his Daughters, by Guer- cino ; a copy of Quentin Matsys ’ Misers, the original in Windsor Castle; Joseph giving the Child to the Virgin, Murillo ; a Sea-piece, by William Van de Velde ; Ituins, by Jan Asselyn ; an Apothecary with a Book in a window recess, by Metzu ; a Landscape, by Jan Baptiste Weenix : a Virgin and Child, by Giovanni Pedrini ; 4 small pic- tures of the Seasons, by Teniers; a male Saint with a palm-branch, by Carlo Dolce ; a Landscape, formerly in the possession of Sir Joshua Rey- nolds, by Claude Lorraine ; a Party in the open-air, by Jan Steen , one of the finest w T orks of the master ; a fine bust of Canning, by Cliantrey. There is also a rich collection of porcelain, with specimens of the different ma- nufactories. After passing Storrs the little island of Ling Holm is seen, and 2 m. fur- ther Silver Holm ; J m. beyond is Blake Holm. The lofty height of Glimmer’s How is passed on the 1. Newby Bridge , 1 m. from Lake Side (Inn: The Swan, very com- fortable and charges moderate). The river Leven flows in front of the hotel, and is spanned by a bridge of 3 arches. The scenery here is extremely pleasing. The hill above the hotel should be ascended for the sake of the views of Windermere and of the Leven estuary. The Leven is a fine stream flowing over a rocky bed, and its banks are well wooded. A walk should be taken on its 1. bank as far as Backbarrow, 1^ m. There are few better salmon rivers in England, but the fishing is in the hands of a private association. Proceeding up the lake the scenery is more striking than in the down excursion to Newby Bridge. After- passing Bowness, the woods of Cal- garth appear on the rt. Cal garth was the residence of Dr. Watson, Bishop of Llandaff, the author of the ‘ Apo- logy for the Bible.’ He passed much of his time there, planting and making agricultural improvements. He was the first to introduce the larch into this district, the plantations of which now form, in many places, conspicuous features in the landscape. Low Wood. The steamer touches here to embark and disembark pas- sengers from the small pier in front of the Hotel, which is good and much frequented as a tourist's station. The views from it form a great attraction. The coaches which run between Win- dermere, Ambleside, and Keswick call here. Wray Castle, on a wooded hill to the 1., was built in 1842 by James Dawson, Esq., M.D., of Liverpool, and was meant to resemble a feu- dal fortress of the middle ages, but without the appendages of moat and rampart. The views from it cannot be surpassed. The interior is not shown, but permission can be obtained to enter the grounds. There is a creek with a boat-landing at a short distance from the castle. After passing Wray Castle, on the rt. is Dove's Nest, for a short time the residence of Mrs. Hemans, — a plain, unpretending house, but beautifully situated. On approaching the N. extremity of the lake the village of Clappersgate is seen nestling under the wooded heights of Loughrigg, and Brathay Hall (G. Redmayne, c 3 34 Bjute 3 .- — Water! lead. Esq.), in the centre of a wooded park at the head. Waterhead (Inn: Waterhead Ho- tel), the port of Ambleside, distant 1J m. from the town. Omnibuses are always in waiting for the steam- ers to convey passengers either to Ambleside or Grasmere. On the 1. of the road, on a gentle eminence, is Wanlass How, a tasteful villa re- sidence. The river Brathay enters the lake at its northern extremity, after having effected a junction with the Rothay, a little higher up ; the one descends from the Langdale Pikes, flowing through Langdale and Elterwater ; the other has its source above Grasmere, and flows through the Rydal Yalley. The char of Windermere ascend the Brathay in the spawning season, and trout the Rothay. Boats are kept at Waterhead for excursions on the lake, the shores of which in this, its upper reach, are very interesting. The little" Bay of Pull Wyke should be visited. Passing the grounds of Brathay Hall a richly-wooded creek is entered, which presents a perfect picture of soft and sylvan beauty. Many days would be re- quired to explore the numerous bays and promontories of a lake which has always excited the en- thusiastic admiration of tourists and oven of those most familiar with its oharms. “Live by it 50 years, and by degrees you may come to know .something worth telling of it.” — Professor Wilson. The peculiar at- traction of Windermere is its finely- marked and varied outline. “Here the land gently swells into the lake, and there the water seems to seek a more deep repose in bays and coves which it has formed by a kindly-soliciting influence from the shore. There are occasionally points of boldness enough to pre- vent tameness; but the land and water seem never to have con- tended for empire. Where the former advances it is gradually, and not by sharp angular projections, but graceful curves ; and where the water encroaches you might easily imagine that it was only that it might spread a calm surface beneath the hills, to reflect more vividly their noble forms.” — Channing. No better mode can be suggested for enjoying the scenery of Windermere, than to take the steamer to Newby Bridge from Waterhead, then to walk or drive along the whole of its W. shore to Ambleside, 14 m. The Ferry Inn, about halfway, is a convenient resting-place. The road is hilly, and from the number of gates inconvenient for carriages, but the scenery will afford the highest gratification. The laurels which clothe the sides of the hills are of extraordinary size. The road, after passing Wray Castle, joins that from Hawkshead ; the return to Ambleside is over Brathay Bridge and through the village of Clappersgate. Windermere Stat. to Ambleside by Road. — The scenery for the whole distance, 6 m., is eminently beautiful. Passing under the heights of Elleray on the rt. and by the woods of Cal- garth on the 1., Troutbeck Bridge is reached. From thence to the Low Wood Hotel is 2 m. Here the upper reach of the lake is seen as a noble expanded sheet of water, with Cmiston Old Man, Langdale Pikes, and Bowfell in the background. Ambleside, Pop. 1603 (Inns: Salu- tation ; Brown’s Queen’s Hotel ; the White Lion ; and the Yale Yiew Hotel) picturesquely situated under Wansfell and on the slope of a hill above the valley of the Rothay. The approach from Water- head is particularly fine. A grand amphitheatre of mountains opens out, and the woods of Rydal give great richness to the scenery. Fair field is a directly in front, Scan- dal Fell* and Wansfell on the rt., and Loughrigg on the 1. The central situation of Ambleside is convenient for making short tours. "Route 3 .— The lodging-houses are good and reasonable, and much in request during the season. The Church is modern Gothic, with a lofty but heavy spire. There is a memorial window to Wordsworth. The prin- cipal residences near Ambleside are Scale Sow (Mrs. Harrison) ; Bellevue (Matthew Harrison, Esq.); The Knoll (Miss Harriet Martineau) ; Loughrigg Brow (Rev. C. D. Bel], the incumbent of Ambleside) ; Croft Lodge , Clappersgate (T. B. Jervis, Esq.) ; and Fox How (Mrs. Arnold.) Distances : Keswick 17 m., Patter- dale (Ulls water) 10, Bowness 6, Kendal 13, Coniston 9, Hawkshead 5. Conveyances : A coach daily to Coniston, 9 m., and coaches 3 times a day to Windermere and Keswick. Steamers from Waterhead every 3 hrs. to Low-Wood Inn, Bowness, and Lake Side. Omnibuses frequently to Waterhead and Grasmere. Ambleside was a Koman station. In Camden’s ‘Britannia’ there is a description of a fortress, the remains of which are yet discernible, and from which urns, coins, and fragments of tessellated pavement and pottery have been dug up. “ At the upper part of Winandermere,” he says, lies the carcase as it were of an ancient city, with great ruins of walls, and of buildings without the walls, still remaining scattered about. It was of an oblong form, defended by a fosse and a vallum, and the paved road leading to it plainly bespeaks it a Roman work.” The traces of this work are now very slight. Ambleside commands no view of Windermere, but the mountain scenery is strikingly fine. In front of the town is Loughrigg, a pic- turesque although not a very ele- vated ridge ; on the rt. are Fairfield and l^ab Scar, and behind the town is Wansfell, which should be ascended for its views of Windermere, Coniston, Rydal, Grasmere, and Morecamb Bay. Wordsworth thus apostrophises Ambleside . 35 the mountain as seen from Rydal Mount : — “ Wansfell! this household has a favoured lot, Living with liberty on thee to gaze, To watch while mom first crowns thee with her rays, Or when along thy breast serenely float Evening’s angelic clouds. Yet ne’er a note Hath sounded (shame upon the bard) thy praise ; For all that thou, as if from heaven, hast brought Of glory lavished on our quiet days. Bountiful son of earth ! When we are gone From every object dear to mortal sight, As soon we shall be, may these words attest How oft, to elevate our spirits, shone Thy visionary majesties of light, — How in thy pensive glooms our hearts found rest.” Wansfell may be ascended by Stock Ghyll Lane above Ambleside, or from Low-Wood, by a charming walk of 3 m. Stock Ghyll Force , the famed water- fall of Ambleside, flows through a precipitous ravine directly behind the town. Its height from the spot whence the water first commences its descent to the bottom of the fall is 160 ft. ; but it is broken into a number of small falls, the longest of which does not exceed 30 ft. The ravine is picturesquely wooded. The volume of water is never very great. Ponies and donkeys may be hired in the town for visiting the fall, and the path is practicable almost to the summit. The botanist will find in the ravine of Stock Ghyll Force, Pyrola media and Polypodium phegopteris ; and in the fields about Ambleside, Rosa brac- tescens and Hymenophyllum Wilsoni. The walks near Ambleside are numerous and of great beauty. One through the Rothay Valley to Rydal should not be omitted. It passes on the rt. Fox How , Mrs. Arnold, the widow of the late Dr. Arnold, the head master of Rugby School and Professor of Modern History in the University of Oxford. The view from it is very fine, looking over the 36 Route 3 . Rydal Yalley upon Fairfield, the woods of Rydal Park, and down upon Rothay. Below Fox How to the 1. is Fox Ghyll , a pretty residence situate under the wooded height of Loughrigg. Passing over Pelter Bridge, the high road to Ambleside is entered. Loughrigg. To ascend this moun- tain ridge, which forms the W. boundary of the Rothay yalley, cross the river Rothay by the foot bridge, to which a path to the 1. leads about j m. from Ambleside on the Rydal road. In front will be seen Lough- rigg Brow, the conspicuous mansion of Rev. C. D. Bell, situated on theE. slope of Loughrigg. The road to the summit of the low range, which extends from the village of Clappers- gate to Rydal and Grasmere Lakes, passes this house and ascends the hill by zigzag paths. The highest point of the Fell is indicated by a cairn or “ man,” but there are nume- rous points of view of equal, if not greater, beauty than the one from the actual summit. The view of Langdale looking over Loughrigg Tarn should be particularly noticed, and it would be desirable to follow the ridge until it dips into Rydal and Grasmere Lakes. There is no difficulty in passing from one extre- mity of Loughrigg to the other, the top consisting of a series of grassy undulations, broken only by a few craggy eminences. “ This beautiful piece of upland might seem a plat- form — if such a phrase did not belie its waving, rock-ribbed, and pinna- cled surface — built by nature to en- able her true lovers to enjoy, in quick succession, the most splendid variety she can exhibit. On one side, from the gently-ascending path, bordered by scanty heather, you embrace the broader portion of Windermere, spreading out its arms as if to em- brace the low and lovely hills that enfold it— a view without an angle or a contrast — a scene of perfect har- mony and peace. Ascend a lofty —Rydal. slab of rock, not many paces onward, and you have lying before you the delicious Yale of Rothay, a stream gliding through the greenest mea- dows, with Fairfield beyond, ex- panding its huge arms as of a giant's chair. Wind your way through two small vales, each having its own oval basin, and from another height you may look down on the still mirror of Rydalmere, with its small central island, the nest of herons ; and fol- lowing the valley to Grasmere with its low white church-tower, beyond the figured crest of Helm Crag, be- hold the vast triangle of Skiddaw filling the distance ; while midway, just rising above green mountains, you may see the topmost rind of Helvellyn, curved in air, with one black descent just indicated. Pass from thence to the highest point of all this region, and look down be- yond the calm round tarn of Lough- rigg, into a magnificent chaos, — the Langdale vales with the ribbed pike of Scaw Fell beyond them, and in the midst of those pikes, which, yielding to many of the surrounding hills in height, surpass them all in form." — Mr. Justice Talford’s * Vaca- tion Rambles/ Rydal ; 1J m. Rydal Hall (Gen. Le Fleming). The two celebrated waterfalls in the grounds should be visited. Access to them is obtained from the gardener, who resides op- posite the entrance-gate, of the Hall. Above the Hall is a marrow, thickly- wooded valley, through which a stream flows with a somewhat rapid descent and forms a succession of cascades. The falls consist of an upper and a lower. The lower is the most admired. It is seen from a summer-house, through the window of which it appears very much to resemble a picture set in a frame. The water is within a few yards of the eye, which being rather above the level of the fall, a long per- spective view of the stream is ob- tained as it rushes from the higher 37 'Route 3 . — By dal Mount. ground along its rocky channel. The dark colour of the rock and the gloom from the' overhanging wood contrast well with the sparkling brightness of the w~ater, and pro- duce an effect not unlike that of a scene in a theatre. The upper fall has a greater volume of water, but does not possess the picturesque accessories of the lower. By dal Mount was for nearly 30 years the residence of the poet Words- worth. The gate is a little above the entrance to Rydal Hall on the 1. The house is a very simple and un- pretending edifice. The view from the grassy mound in front is strikingly beautiful, commanding the whole of the Rothay valley with a portion of Windermere. The terrace- walk leads to the Fell under Nab Scar, and was much frequented by the poet. At its extremity is a summer- house, from which there is a charm- ing view of Rydal Water. Wordsworth died at Rydal Mount at noon, on 23rd April, 1850, having attained his 80tli year on the 7th. “ A censer of the public incense was constantly swinging at the great poet’s door ; he professed to feel an- noyance at the somewhat obtrusive homage of the world, but he never- theless quietly enjoyed it.” Many hollies in the ground were planted by his hands. The laurels are of great age, and appropriately embellish the abode of one of the greatest of Eng- lish poets. M Adieu Rydalian laurels ! that have grown And spread as if ye knew that days might come When ye would shelter in a happy home ’ On this fair mount a poet of your own. One who ne’er ventured for a Delphic crown To sue the god ; but haunting your green shade All seasons through, is humbly pleased to braid Ground flowers, beneath your guardianship selfsown.” — Wordsworth, 1833. Wordsworth seldom composed in the house, but during his rambles on the mountains and fells, and latterly in his grounds. It was his practice to dictate, not to write, bis poetry. He was scarcely ever seen with a pen in his hand. A pedestrian would do well to make an excursion up the valley behind Rydal Hall as tar as Rydal Head. There is an uninterrupted prospect to the foot of Fairfield, 3 m. Nothing can exceed the wild seclusion of this valley, and the “ solemn stillness ” which pervades it. It does not pos- sess a single human habitation ; the steep heights of Fairfield rise directly in front. “ Here,— if the solemn nightingale be mute. And the soft woodlark here did never chant Her vespers, — Nature fails not to provide Impulse and utterance. The whispering air Sends inspiration from the shadowy heigh?*. And blind recesses of the caverned rocks ; The little rills and waters numberless, Inaudible by daylight, blend their notes With the loud streams; and often, at the hour When issue forth the first pale stars, is heard. Within the circuit of this fabric huge, One voice — the solitary raven, flying Athwart the concave of the dark blue dome.” A fine mountain-stream, from which are derived the Rydal waterfalls, runs through the valley. Rydal Water . — This lake, one of the gems of the district, should be seen from its W. bank. Opposite Glen Rothay (W. Ball, Esq.) is a rustic bridge, which crosses the Rothay, and viewed from which the river scenery is very lovely. A path leads through a farmyard to the opposite shore of the lake, from which the woods of Rydal Park are seen to great ad- vantage, as well as the wooded crags of Nab Scar. The views from this side of the lake much exceed those from the other. “ Here you see the mountains in mag- nificent composition, and craggy coppices with intervening green fields shelving down to the green margin. Rydal is a small lake, not much more than a mile round, and of a very peculiar character. It has a reedy inlet and outlet, and the angler thinks of pike when he looks 38 Boute 3 . — Lang dale — Dungeon Ghyll. upon such harbours. The heronry on the high pine-trees of the island connects the scene with the ancient park of Rydal, whose oak woods, although thinned and decayed, still preserve the majestic and venerable character of antiquity and baronial state.” — Professor Wilson. Langdale should be visited from Ambleside, an excursion which will occupy 5 or 6 hrs., allowing an inter- val for rest; the distance going and returning is 18 m. The road nearly to the head of Langdale is good, and the whole excursion can be made in a car. The road passes through the village of Clappersgate, and then turns sharply to the rt. to Langdale, keeping the Brathay river on the 1. The Brathay rises on the southern side of the Stake, flows for 9 m. E.S.E. to the head of Windermere, and is flanked for a portion of its course by Langdale Pikes and Bow Fell ; it then flows down Mickleden, receiving the streams of Dungeon Ghyll and Mill Ghyll, then runs through Great Langdale between Red Bank Fell and Ling Moor, ex- pands into Elterwater, and receives there a stream from Little Langdale : it soon after makes a fall of about 20 ft. Skelwith Force. It is difficult to obtain a good view of this waterfall ; you are too near. The best distant view is from a knoll which may be thus reached : — Cross the bridge, go up Colewithroad for perhaps 1 00 yds., or halfway up the first ascent, and there is a stone stepping-stile be- side a gate, cross a few yards of the field, get over a low stone wall before you, and mount the fell through the brushwood ; you have now a perfect picture before you, the Fall in the centre, the Langdale Pikes for a background, and a rock- setting on either side. The stream is crossed at Skelwith Bridge, a little below the fall, by the road from Hawkshead to Grasmere, and at Brathay Bridge, 1J m. lower down, by the road from Hawkshead to Am- bleside. It then passes the village of Clappersgate, is joined on the left by the river Rothay, and passes a few yards further on into Winder- mere. Brathay Ch ., with a tower somewhat in the style of an Italian campanile, was erected by Mr. Red- mayne, the well-known haberdasher of Bond Street. The Brathay here has the character of a brawling stream, but above is a sluggish pond. On the rt. the woods of Loughrigg skirt the roadside. The valley is characterised by soft beauty, with fine mountain masses in the distance. The valleys of Great and Little Langdale diverge from the village of Elterwater , and are separated by Lingmoor Fell. The road to the rt. leads to Great Langdale, after having skirted the small lake or tarn of Elterwater, near which are powder- mills, erected on a singularly pic- turesque spot, amidst fir plantations, on the bank of the Brathay, which is here again a fine mountain-stream. The scene behind the mills is quite in the style of Ruysdael — -a foaming river rushing through a fir-clad ravine, with mountains in the background. On the rt. are the abandoned Thrang slate- quarries, and the church of Lang- dale, rebuilt by E. W. Wheatley Balme, Esq., of Loughrigg, at his own cost. The valley from this point contracts, and the scenery in- creases in grandeur" as the Langdale Pikes are approached. Millbech (Inns : Dungeon Ghyll Plotel, and New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, 1 m. higher up the valley, both comfortable and reasonable). Dungeon Ghyll. The fall is more striking from its position than from the volume of water or from its height. The chasm in the hill is reached by % a path on one side of the ravine, and is entered by the aid of a ladder. The dark gorge into which the 89 Route 3 . — Langdale Pikes . stream leaps gives it a peculiarly sombre character, which if it were larger would not be without sub- limity. The chasm is spanned by a natural bridge of rock which it is dangerous to persons of weak nerves to cross. Wordsworth made Dun- geon Ghyll the scene of one of his Lyrical Ballads, the ‘ Idle Shepherd- boys/ not, however, one of the hap- piest of his effusions. The stream flows from the gorge which separates the Langdale Pikes. Stickle Tarn , several hundred feet above the Ghyll, is a lonely sheet of water, and famous for its trout. Pavey Ark rises abruptly from its brink. [Bow fell and Scawfell may both be ascended from Langdale. Guides can be procured at the Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. The ascent of Bow- fell is made by a shoulder of the mountain, called the Band, and can be accomplished in 2 hours. It would be impracticable to ride more than a portion of the way. Scawfell , Pike can be reached from the Dungeon Ghyll Hotel in 3^ hours. The route is by Kosset Ghyll to the foot of Angle Tarn, from whence there are guide-stones all the way. A pony cannot be ridden to the summit. The last | m. is over large stones, and must be done on foot. The ascent is much longer than from Wastdale Head, but less steep. Wast- dale Head , at the head of Wast- water, can also be reached from Langdale by the route of Sprinkling Tarn, crossing Eskhause by the Sty Head Pass. The charge for a guide to the top of Bowfell is 5s., to Scaw- fell Pike 7s., a pony 7s. extra. To a tourist intending to ascend Scawfell from Wastdale the ascent of Bowfell from Langdale would be superfluous, as the mountains are very close to each other, and the views from Scawfell, from its superior elevation, are, of course, grander and more extensive. Scaw- fell should, however, be ascended from Langdale if the time of the tourist should not admit of his pro- ceeding to Wastdale.] The Langdale Pikes , although inferior in elevation to many of the Cumberland mountains, command views of great beauty, especially one over the vale of Great Langdale, towards Windermere. The sum- mits of the Pikes seem, even at a short distance, close to one another, but they are so far apart as to leave considerable gaps not easy to traverse between them. Pike o' Stickle is the lowest, but the most regular and conical ; the eastern one called Harrison Stickle , is more easy of ascent. The ravine on the E. side of the Pikes is called Millgill, that on the W. Mickleden. Stickle Pike — rising in the form of a cone, and probably a corruption of Stikill, an old Norse name — commands a fine view of Skiddaw and of Bassen- th waite Lake; Great Gable, Scaw- fell Pikes, and Bowfell are also seen to the N., and Crinkle Crags, a con- tinuation of Bowfell, to the S. [Borrowdale may also be reached from Langdale. The road, which must be followed nearly to the head of the Langdale Valley, then turns to the rt. up the Stake Pass. This pass presents no difficulties, but the turns are rather sharp, and the zigzags rough and steep. The descent on the other side, between Bliscar Pike and Eagle Crag, is easier. The first hamlet reached is Stonethwaite, a little beyond which the high road to Borrowdale is entered. The views in course of the descent, with Glara- mara and the picturesque Eagle Crag in close proximity, are admirable.] A steep and somewhat rugged road leads from Langdale to JBlea Tarn and Little Langdale. From the top of the hill on the 1. the road descends abruptly upon the valley, 40 Route 3 . — Troutbeclc. the scene of the 2nd book of Words- worth’s ‘ Excursion.’ The tarn is 2f m. from Dungeon Ghyll by the road, but 1 m. only if the hill on the 1. of the road is climbed, directly under which on the opposite side lie the valley and tarn. The seclusion of this vale is complete. There is still only a single house, “ one abode, no more ; ” but the surrounding fea- tures have somewhat changed since the poet described them. On the W. of the tarn a larch grove has grown up ; it is therefore no longer the treeless spot as described by Wordsworth : — “ The small birds find in spring no thicket there To shroud them, only from the neighbouring vales The cuckoo straggling up to the hill-top Shouteth faint tidings of some happier place.” The tarn is best seen from the W. side, with the larch wood as a fore- ground. The Langdale Pikes have here a very imposing effect, being very close. As seen from this spot they inspired Wordsworth with some of his finest and most characteristic poetry. “ Many are the notes That in his tuneful course the wind draws forth From rocks, woods, caverns, heaths, and dash- ing shores, And well those lofty brethren bear their part In one wild concert — chiefly when the storm Rides high ; then all the upper air they fill With roaring sound, that ceases not to flow, Like smoke along the level of the blast In mighty current; theirs, too, is the song Of stream and headlong flood that seldom fails ; And in the grim and breathless hour of noon Methinks that I have heard them echo back The thunder’s greeting. Nor have nature’s laws Left them ungifted of a power to yield Music of finer tone; a harmony, So do I call it, though it be the hand Of silence, though there be no voice ; the clouds, The mist, the shadows, light of golden suns, Motions of moonlight, all come hither — touch And have an answer; — there the sun himself At the calm close of summer’s longest day Rests his substantial orb ; between these heights, And on the top of either pinnacle, Sparkle the stars, as of their station proud. Thoughts are not busier in the mind of man Than the mute agents stirring there.” Blea Tarn, however, is best seen from the S. looking up the pass into the Langdale Pikes. There is no more striking picture. It would bo necessary, in order to see it in this point of view, to reverse the route to Langdale, but in that case the fine approach to the Pikes through the valley would be lost. It would be worth while to make a separate ex- cursion to Blea Tarn from Amble- side, passing through Little Lang- dale instead of Great Langdale ; you then have all the beauty before you, and the interest increases every step. This road is quile practicable for wheels. Leaving Blea Tarn , the road to Ambleside winds round the base of Lingmoor, opening fine views at every turn of Weatherlam. Leaving that mountain on the rt., the road then passes into Little Langdale, where is the fine waterfall of Colwith Force > which has an upper and a lower fall like that of Rydal, but descending with rather a large volume of water into a basin, the stream from which takes its course to Elterwater. The stream has its source in Weatherlam and Wrynose Fells, and flows through the Tarn of Little Langdale. [An excursion should be made from Ambleside to Troutbeclc, 4 m., by way of Low-Wood. The village is Jm. long, straggling, and very picturesque. Som e of the houses have courtyards with high walls, required in former days for defence, and the yews are clipped into artificial shapes. The cottages were once rich in old carved oak fur- niture, but the curiosity dealers have found out this primitive village, and most of its ancient treasures have been removed. 11 The cottages stand for the most part in clusters of twos and threes, with here and there what is called Route 3 . — Troutbedc. 41 a clachan — i. e., a small town within a long town ; but where in all Scot- land is a wide, long, scattered con- gregation of rural dwellings all dropped down where the painter and the poet would have wished to plant them, — on knolls and in dells, on banks and braes, and below tree- crested rocks, — all bound together in picturesque confusion by old groves of ash, oak, and sycamore, and by flower-gardens and fruit-orchards, rich as those of the Hesperides ? ” — Professor Wilson. Along the top of the heights to the rt. ran the great Roman road, High Street , which may still be easily traced. High Street is the loftiest of a range of heights extending southward from Apple- th waite Common, between the north of Kentmere and the mouth of Trout- beck. The central position of the mountain as the focus of several pastoral valleys made it long a place of annual meeting for shep- herds. They assembled from places many miles distant, to communicate mutual information, and they en- tertained themselves with rustic games, and with cakes and ale. A spot on the summit of the ridge, called Scot’s Rake, a short dis- tance south of the summit, is said to have been occupied by a party of rebels in 1715, who contem- plated a descent into Troutbeck. High Street, which may be interest- ing to many on account of its asso- ciations with the Roman occupation, can be ascended from Troutbeck by following the road up the E. side of the vale, in the direction of the Park Slate Quarries, to the foot of a deep ravine, called the Blue Gill, thence proceeding at a right angle up the side of the mountain to the summit of the ridge at the Scot’s Rake ; from this point the course is northward, along the ridge, to the rocky height of Thornthwaite Crag, then through a slight depression beyond it, up a grassy acclivity to the summit. The upper valley of Troutbeck, now very bare of wood, was once a dense forest. A large estate here was con- ferred by Charles I. on one of the Philipsons of Belle Isle, Windermere* for his services in the civil war. Hill Bell (2476 ft.) is the most con- spicuous elevation, being only 187 ft. lower than High Street (2663 ft}. Below the village at the bottom of the valley on the rt. is the little chapel of Troutbeck. The river, as its name denotes, is a good one for the angler, fine Windermere Lake trout frequently ascending the stream. “ There is not such another splen- did prospect in all England as the view of Windermere from the road leading from Troutbeck to Low Wood. The lake has much the character of a river without losing 1 its own. The islands are seen almost all lying together in a cluster ; below which all is loveliness and beauty ; above, all majesty and grandeur. Bold or gentle promontories break all the banks into frequent bays, seldom without a cottage or cot- tages embowered in trees ; and while the whole landscape is of a sylvan kind, parts of it are so laden with woods, that you see only here and there a wreath of smoke, but no houses, and could almost believe that you are gazing on the primeval forests .” — Professor Wilson. The limestone formation which crosses the head of Windermere forms a junction with the slate, and traverses the vales of Troutbeck, Kentmere* and Long Sleddale, crossing the in- tervening mountains. The stratifi- cation dips to the S.E., while the cleavage of the slate frequently in- clines in the opposite direction.] i 42 Route 4 . — Amblesicle to Duddon Talley. BOUTE 4. AMBLESIDE TO CONISTON AND THE VALLEY OF THE DUDDON. Conveyances . — A coach daily from Ambleside to Coniston (9 m.), return- ing in the evening. Ely. from Coniston to Broughton. The tour of the Duddon was for- merly made from Ambleside by the pass of Wrynose, but it can now be more conveniently made by taking the rly. from Coniston to Broughton, 10m. (Kte. 2). The steep ascent of Wry- nose is thus avoided, and the Duddon scenery will rise in interest as the valley is ascended, instead of dimi- nishing as by the old route. The road to Coniston is exceedingly steep on both sides of the pass, and ascends to a very considerable height. The views on the ascent from Amble- side over the upper end of Winder- mere and towards Helvellyn and Langdale Pikes, are magnificent, perhaps finer than can be seen from any other coach-road in the Lakes. From a hillock on the N., just at the summit, the view is still more extensive. The latter part of the descent to Coniston is through the woods of W. Marshall, Esq. Another route, although there is no public conveyance, is by the road through Skelwith and Yewdale, 10 m. Few drives present more striking scenery. From the top of the hill, 1 m. from Skelwith Bridge, the panoramic view to the rt. is one of the finest in the country ; and Yewdale , 2 m. beyond, with its bold and wooded crags, is very striking. At High Yewdale the yews have been clipped into fanciful shapes. The road to Coniston then passes through a shady lane below Yewdale crags to Church Coniston. Coniston {Inns: The Waterhead Hotel; the Lake Bank Hotel, both excellent). The lake lies parallel to, and about 5 m. W. of, Winder^ mere, and is 6 m. long and f m. broad. The char are considered the best in the Lake district. The scenery of its banks is generally soft and pleasing, but at its northern extremity it is more imposing. A steam gondola plies on the lake 2 or 3 times a day. The excursion to the S. end and back is made in about 1^ hour, and the gondola maybe engaged for private excursions after 6 p.m., charge, 15s. The lake should, how- ever, also be seen from the road on the E. side. The river Crake flows out of Coniston Lake at Nib- thwaite. The lake is here seen to great advantage, its outline being broken promontories and the Yew- dale Crags, and the grand and finely- shaped mountain of Coniston Old Man forms a noble termination to the prospect. The road on the E. side of the lake will be felt to be rather disap- pointing : it is between woods, and at no point commands a perfect view ; the Old Man and Weatherlam are too near for effect. The most beautiful point of the road round the lake, is that between the Lake Bank Hotel at the foot, and Gunney Bank on the W. Coniston Old Man (2632 ft.), so called from the pile of stones on its summit, such piles on the tops of hills being provincially called “men.” The geological features of the mountain are interesting. From Coniston village to the top of the mountain .the strata are shown in fine open sections. At the base is a bed of transition lime- stone ; granite and felspar are met with in the ascent, but the mass of the mountain is composed of blue slate, of which there are several quarries. In commencing the ascent from the village the road is followed along the course of the stream flowing from Levers Water, a tarn on the N. Boate 4 . — Coniston. 43 side of the mountain, and the summit is gained by a rather steep ascent. Leaving the ch. and bridge of Coniston, you at once commence the ascent. The road is steep and irre- gular; on turning round the sea is seen stretching W. from the mouth of the Leven. On reaching the copper-mines the crest of the moun- tain is on the 1. above 2 slate-quar- ries, the one at a higher elevation than the other, the highest of which is connected by a road with the lower. Shortly after quitting the higher of these quarries, the moun- tain-tarn of Low Water is seen, and from this point the tract is marked by a zigzag path, passing a third quarry, and leading along a sloping ridge to the summit. The N. side of Levers Water, the largest of all the tarns, and one of the most beautiful both in shape and position, mea- suring 1 m. in circumference, and nearly circular in form, is passed during the ascent. It lies between the Old Man and Weatherlam. From it there is a road to Low Water, another tarn just under the Old Man. Low Water is the highest of the Coniston tarns. The ascent may also be made by following the road over Walna Scar for about 1 m., and then turning to the rt. towards an old slate-quarry, whence it is a rough scramble to the top. Blind Tarn, so called from its having no outlet, will be visible to the S. under Walna Scar, and a walk of J m. from the top to the N.W. will bring the tourist in sight of Sea- thwaite Tarn, from whence a stream issues which falls into the Duddon. The mountain range of Weatherlam, which sweeps round to the N. of the Old Man, is well worth a. visit for the grand and varied prospects it affords. From Weatherlam the return may be made to Coniston through Tilberth waite and Yewdale. The ascent to the summit of the 4 ‘ Old Man” from Coniston, will oc- cupy 2 hrs. ; charge for pony, 5s. The mountain may also be ascended from Torver, taking the rly. to that village, 2 m. This is much the easiest way of reaching the top, but the route is not so picturesque as the others, although if time be an object it may be preferred. Gates Water, a tarn between the Old Man and Dow Crag, is passed by this route. It has an oval form, and is about | m. in circumfer- ence. It possesses a wild, savage, almost terrific character. Three of its four sides are overhung by naked, dark, lofty precipices, reft with chasms. Its fourth side is formed of a chaotic accumulation of fallen rocks. The ascent from Torver can be made easily in 1} hr. The panorama from the summit of the Old Man embraces the estuaries of the Kent, Leven, and Duddon, a long line of coast, the Isle of Man, Black Combe, Scawfell, and Bow- fell. Coniston Lake is seen for its whole length, together with Es- th waite Water and part of Winder- mere. Snowdon may also be seen on a clear day. Very charming walks may be taken from Coniston into Yew- dale 2 m., to Griesdale 3 m., and round the bay at the upper end of the lake to the Hawkshead road and the hill above. The road to Yewdale turns to the rt. opposite the ch., and the shady lane by the side of Yewdale Beck is followed for about 2 m., with Yewdale crags on the 1. On reaching High Yewdale the road to the rt. leads to Grasmere, and that to the 1. through Tilber- thwaite to Langdale. At this point the scenery is highly picturesque. The road to the secluded vale of Tilberth waite may be followed for a short distance, the ascent gradually opening views of Coniston and the valley, which are well worth the trouble of a short ascent. Griesdale lies between Coniston Lake and Windermere. It is reached by a road to the 1. from the E. side of the lake. The valley, is picturesque with- 44 Boute 4 . — Hawkshead— Esthwaite — Duddon Valley . out possessing any very striking features. The botanist will find at Coniston the following plants : — On the Old Man, Saxifraga stellaris ; at Coniston Waterhead, Geranium sylvaticum ; on the E. side of Coniston Lake, Ornithopus perpusillus ; and on the high ground between Coniston and Hawskhead, Habenaria albida. [Instead of proceeding direct to Coniston from Ambleside the Hawks- head road may be taken, and that town and Esthwaite Water first visited. The Hawkshead road tarns off* to the 1. from the Coniston road, 2 m. from Ambleside. The views, shortly after the Hawkshead road is entered, are very striking. Step on to the fell on 1. of the road for a distant view of Am- bleside, and of Windermere with its w T ooded promontories below. “ Here let the tourist pause, and admire the prospect opening out before him, of the lake, of the quiet picturesque town of Ambleside, and the magni- ficent panorama of mountains that encircle the whole ; if he is fortunate enough to have a fine day, with a cloudless sky, he will acknowledge that English mountain-scenery, if not the grandest, is among the most beautiful in Europe.” — Mackay. Hawkshead ( Inn : The Old King’s Head) has a very antique aspect. The ch., perched on a rocky emi- nence, is Early Norm., the pillars of the original edifice remaining. The ch.-yard commands a pleas- ing view of the vale. There is an endowed grammar-school, where Wordsworth received his early edu- cation, together with his brother Dr. Wordsworth, Master of Trinity College, Cambridge. Sandys, Arch- bishop of York, was also edu- cated here. He bequeathed his li- brary (chiefly theological) to the school, where it still exists. He be- longed to an ancient family whose descendants still reside in the neigh- bourhood. He was the friend of Jewell, Hooket, and Cranmer, and suffered imprisonment for 7 months in the Tower of London, for his opinions. He afterwards fled to the continent, and lived for some time in exile. On his return to England, he took part in the translation of the Bible, and rose successively to the sees of Worcester, London, and York (1577-1588). Hawkshead Hall, now a farmhouse, was the property of the monastery of Furness ; the mullioned windows over the gateway belonged to the court-room. Esthwaite Water, 1 J m. in length, and 4 in breadth. There is a good carriage-road round the lake. The best route is by Esthwaite Hall, and by the lodge on the rt., a little beyond which the road skirts the banks of the lake. Two promonto- ries nearly divide the lake : the best view of it, is from a promontory on the W. side looking N. Its chief affluent rises on Yewdale Fells, and its effluent is Cunsey Beck, which flows into Windermere. On the rt. side a good view is obtained of the whole lake and of Hawkshead. The scenery is purely pastoral. Planta- tions and fields alternately diversify the shores, white farmhouses are scat- tered over the slopes, and give to its banks a character of peace and rural seclusion. The lake abounds in trout, perch, and pike. The soil of the Yale of Hawkshead is fertile ; but the cultivation of coppice-wood has been introduced as the most profitable use to which the- land can be applied. A plantation is divided into 20 por- tions, one of which is cut every year. Much of the wood is used in the manufacture of bobbins, and char- coal is largely produced. A road runs from Hawkshead along the eastern shore of the lake to the ferry on Windermere, passing through the pretty village of Sawrey, 2 m, near which perhaps the best views of the lake and valley are obtained.] The Valley of the Duddon may 45 Route 4 . — -Uljplia Kirk — Newjield. fee reached from Coniston by three different routes — 1. from Broughton, taking the rly. to that place ; 2. over Walna Scar, practicable for ponies ; 3. through Yewdale, taking the road to the 1. from High Yew- dale to Fellfoot, from whence the ascent of Wry nose commences ; this route is practicable for cars, but is very steep and rough. The Duddon rises on Wrynose, in the vicinity of the three Shire Stones, runs 12 m. as a stream to Broughton, begins there to expand into an estu- ary, and proceeds 9 m. further, with a mean width of about 2J m., to the sea. Its highest reach runs through the narrow vale called the Yale of the Duddon to Seathwaite ; its cen- tral reach traverses a wider vale called the Plain of Dunnerdale ; its next reach, as far as Broughton, is in the Yale of Ulpha, and its estuary comprises about 13,000 acres of silty deposit, quite capable of being con- verted, by warping, into a tract of fertile land. The Duddon, above the tidal flow, abounds in trout and salmon. At Broughton the rail may be taken. At Broughton {see Kte. 2, p. 19) a conveyance must be hired for the excursion up the Duddon Yalley and back, which may be ac-‘ complished in 5 or 6 hrs. Leaving the Bootle road at Duddon Bridge, the road turns to the rt., and leads between high hedges to the Ulpha Fells. The lower course of the river Duddon is here hidden by the woods of Duddon Grove (Major Bawlinson) on the 1., a neat mansion beautifully situated on the rt. bank of the stream. More conspicuous than the mansion is a small temple of white freestone, the entablature supported by plain columns with Corinthian capitals; the interior is decorated with stained glass. Duddon Grove may be reached fey entering a wooded lane to the 1. (I*- m. from Duddon Bridge), first passing through a farmyard. From the bridge, at the end of the lane, the river scenery is very beautiful, and will well repay a short detour. A little beyond Duddon Grove, Ulpha Fell is reached, where the scenery becomes wilder and more open. Corney, Stainton, and Birker Fells, all are conspicuous objects in the distance; but, “grand as the wild fells are when purpled with autumnal splen- dour, the speciality, the very genius of this valley’s charm, is the varied loveliness of its stream. Every turn in it brings a new picture to the eye.” — Mackay. Ulpha, or Ulpha Kirk (4 m. from Duddon Bridge, 5J from Broughton), a small hamlet ; the Inn affords but humble accommodation. The ch.- yard is the subject of one of Words- worth’s fine sonnets on the river Duddon. “ How sweet were leisure ! could it yield no more Than ’mid that wave-washed churchyard to recline, From pastoral graves extracting thoughts divine. Or there to pace and mark the summits hoar Of distant moonlit mountains faintly shine, Soothed by the unseen river’s gentle roar.” The rocks here are curiously water- worn; being scooped by the eddies into large holes called “pots.” A little beyond Ulpha is Mill Bridge, where the river flows over mossy rocks. From this point the scenery progressively rises in interest. Hard- knot, Bowfell, and Scawfell grandly towering in the distance. At Newfield in Seathwaite are the “Stepping Stones,” the subject of Wordsworth’s Sonnets X. and XI. Here is undoubtedly the finest scenery of the Duddon ; the valley retaining much of its cultivated character, and the mountains being still sufficiently distant to preserve their atmospheric tints. For some distance the bed of the river is strewn with masses of rock, which have fallen from the crags above. The river here receive s the stream which flows from Sea- thwaite Tarn. Looking up the gorge. 46 Route 4 . — Newjield — Walna Scar. through which the Duddon makes its way into Donnerdale, flanked on the right by the perpendicular rock called the Pen, and on the opposite side by Wallabarrow Crag, the scene is one that will not readily be for- gotten. The impetuous course of the river in flood, combined with the character of its banks, has given rise to many curious phenomena — deep quiet pools of emerald-green water, and rocks fashioned into most fan- tastic shapes. “ From this deep chasm, where quivering sunbeams play Upon its loftiest crags, mine eyes behold A gloomy niche, capacious, blank, and cold ; A concave free from shrubs and mosses gray; In semblance fresh, as if, with dire affray, Some statue, placed amid these regions old For tutelary service, thence had rolled,! Startling the flight of timid Yesterday.” The chief interest of the Duddon Yalley commences at Hail Dunner- dale Bridge : cross it, go up the bank of the Duddon as far as the “ step- ping stones ” at Newfield, cross the stream by them, and resume your car, which has proceeded by the road. There is a reach of the Duddon in this part of its course, which once seen can never be effaced from the memory. The whole course of the river from Dunnerdale Bridge, for 4 m., is one continuous series of pic- tures, a combination of rock, wood, and water seldom equalled. Berks Bridge is a few yards off the high- way, and the view from it should not be lost; but it is necessary to order the driver of your car to “pull up” when you are near it, or you will be driven past a most in- teresting point at a full trot, and so miss the most perfect picture of its kind anywhere to be seen. Below Dunnerdale the crags cease, and above Berks the wood is more scanty ; the heights also recede further from the stream. There is a small Inn at Newfield. In the ch.-yard is a slab supported by two upright stones, marking the grave of the Rev. Robert Walker, who died 25 June, 1802, aged 93, — a clergyman whose character has been thought worthy of a sonnet, and of an elaborate panegyric in prose, by Wordsworth. His character is also drawn in the 4 Excursion ’ — “ him the wonderful, Our simple shepherds, speaking from their heart. Deservedly have styled.” — Book vii. He held the curacy of Seathwaite for 67 years. He was a simple, zealous, and laborious pastor; and although his annual stipend only amounted to 51 . , he reared 12 children, and died worth 2000Z. Close to the ch. is the parsonage, a small cottage covered with climbing roses, in which Walker lived. His employments were mul- tifarious ; he was the parish priest, schoolmaster, and doctor of the dis- trict; he made wills and prepared and engrossed deeds, was the amanu- ensis of his uneducated parishioners, sold home-brewed beer, cultivated his glebe with his own hands, spun wool, made his own clothing, and worked for wages at haymaking and sheepshearing. The little chapel is scarcely larger than a labourer’s cottage. Walker’s pew is shown, lined with cloth woven by himself. Cockley Beck, 5 m. from Newfield, is nearly at the extremity of the valley of the Duddon. The scenery between Cockley Beck and Wrynose is dreary; the river is merely a brawling mountain-stream, and the valley a scene of almost unmitigated desolation, with Grey Friars on the rt., and Harter Fell and Hardknot on the 1. At Cockley Beck is a solitary farmhouse, shaded by syca- mores, “ the cottage rude and gray,” — but now whitewashed ; the syca- mores remain, but are intermixed with firs— of Wordsworth’s sonnet. Here one road turns to the rt. over Wrynose into Langdale, and the other to the 1. over Hardknot into Eskdale. 47 Route 5 . — Ambleside to Keswick . [Should the Walna Scar route be taken from Ooniston, the scenery of the lower portion of the river Duddon would be lost, but of this road Professor Wilson says, “there are few grander walks- in the North of England.’' The path to Seathwaite Tarn, skirting the foot of Blake Bigg, is nearly as high as the Old Man itself. The lake lies in a very lonely region, and has a small island. “ Here nature seems to have held her dominion with a sway more absolute than in any other dale in the country.” The view of Don- nerdale, from Walna Scar, Words- worth also says, “ towards the close of September, when the aftergrass of the meadow is still of a fresh green, w T ith the leaves of the trees faded, but perhaps none fallen, is truly enchanting. At a point ele- vated enough to show the various objects of the valley, and not so high as to diminish their importance, the stranger will instinctively halt. On the foreground, a little below the most favourable station, a rude foot- bridge is thrown over the bed of the noisy brook foaming by the wayside. Russet and craggy hills of bold and varied outline surround the level valley, which is besprinkled with grey rocks, plumed with birch-trees. A few homesteads are interspersed, peeping out from among the rocks like hermitages, where sites for houses have been chosen for the benefit of sunshine as well as shelter.” An admirer of the poet of the Duddon may probably prefer follow- ing the stream from its source with the volume containing the Sonnets in his hand, to ascending its banks from Broughton. To do this, he may proceed either from Coniston, through Yewdale, or from Ambleside, through Little Langdale, to Fell Foot, 5 m., from whence he will commence the ascent of Wrynose Pass. At its sum- mit are the 3 shire stones, marking the junction of the 3 counties of Lan- cashire, Westmorland, and Cum- berland. Immediately after passing these, on turning to the 1. a little out of the road, he will come upon the source of the Duddon in a bed of green moss. “To dignify the spot that gives thee birth, No sign of hoar Antiquity’s esteem Appears, and none of modern Fortune’s care; Yet thou thyself hast round thee shed a gleam Of brilliant moss, instinct with freshness rare, Prompt offering to thy foster mother Earth !” — Sonnet III. After a descent of 1J m. the tourist will reach Cockley Beck. From Cockley Beck the course of the river may be followed to Duddon Bridge ; and no difficulty will be found in identifying the several spots de- scribed by the poet.] ROUTE 5. AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK, BY GRAS- MERE AND THIRLMERE. Coaches 3 times a day to Keswick. There are two roads from Amble- side to Grasmere — 1. Through Clap- persgate and over Red Bank, m., is perhaps the most interesting. 2. The high road (4 m.) on the 1. bank by Rydal Water, passing under Nab Scar on the rt. At the head of Rydal Water are some quarries; hence are three ways to Grasmere — 1. The coach-road skirting the lake. 2. An older road which goes straight over the promontory of rock, past the Wishing Gate, joining the coach-road 48 Route 5 . — Grasmere. j-ust beyond the Lake Hotel at Gras- mere. 3. A higher old pack-road striking off to the rt., from the top of which the Vale of Grasmere and its lake burst upon the view, and with the mountains beyond form a striking picture. Grasmere ( Inns : Prince of Wales's ; Lake Hotel (Town End), a first- class establishment; Bed Lion (vil- lage of Grasmere) ; the Swan, i m. on the Keswick road). The first view of the lake and vale of Grasmere is very striking. It is completely encircled by mountains. From its W. shore Silver How (which derives its name probably from Sbi- var, a Scandinavian chief or Viking, whose tomb was perhaps on its sum- mit) rises steeply ; on its S. Lough - rigg dips almost sheer into the water ; on its E. side the hills rise one above another, up to the very top of Fair- field; and its N. end is closed by Helm Crag and the Borroivdale Fells. Helm Crag is a pyramidally-shaped hill, a prominent feature in the vale ; the rocks which crown its summit have been fancifully compared, when seen from different points of view, to a lion couchant with a lamb by its side, to an old woman, and to an astrologer, as by Wordsworth in his 14 Waggoner ' — 4 ‘ Above Helm Crag a streak half-dead, A burning of portentous red ; And near that lurid light full well The Astrologer, sage Sidrophel, Where at his desk and book he sits Puzzling aloft his curious wits ; He whose domain is held in common With no one but the ancient woman Cowering beside her rifted cell, As if intent on magic spell. Dread pair, that, spite of wind and weather, Still sit upon Helm Crag together." The impression made by this celebrated lake, — at a time, at least, when the valley was little fre- quented by tourists, and was in that primitive state which Gray the poet described; “not a single red tile, no glaring gentleman’s house breaking in upon the repose of an un- suspected paradise ; but only peace, rusticity, and happy poverty in its neatest and most becoming attire,” — was always very marked upon imaginative minds. “ It was sunset when we approached Grasmere. The solemn heights towards the setting sun showed their dark sides reflected in the water with wonderful distinct- ness. The effect of this lake upon the spirit was immediate; awaken- ing a feeling of something profound in one’s own nature. Windermere was tranquil, but it was a cheerful tranquillity; its genius was peace, but peace with a smiling aspect. Grasmere seemed to be formed amidst the mountain recesses expressly as an abode for lonely, silent, pensive meditation.” — Charming. Grasmere has become a place of much resort since the above description was written. A large hotel, and many lodging-houses, villas, and mansions, have sprung up around it, and few spots in the lake district are more visited, and in proportion to the ex- tent of its accommodation are more crowded during the touring season. Being in a central position, it is found very convenient as head- quarters for tourists. Langdale, Kes- wick, Coniston, Thirlmere, and Ulls- water can be easily visited from it, and there are few places from which, within a few miles, so much fine scenery can be enjoyed. Mr. Canning thought Grasmere resembled Cintra in Portugal. The craggy and wooded heights to the E. called Forest Side, as seen from the lake, may have suggested the comparison. Much of the wood which once clothed this side of the vale has been since cut down. The lake is 1 m. in length, and f m. in breadth, and lies in a hollow, and the noble amphitheatre of mountains which encircle it can be best seen from the water. At Town End is the house occupied by Wordsworth when he first settled at Grasmere ; it is now a lodging-house. It was once “ The jRdute B.—EasdaU. 49 Dove and Olive-bough,” referred to in the ‘ Waggoner — “ There where the Dove and Olive-bough Once hung, a poet harbours now. A simple waterdrinking bard.” Here Wordsworth lived from 1799 to 1808. The house was afterwards occupied by De Quincey. The village of Grasmere is ^ m. N. of the lake. The Ch. is a heavy, hideous building of great antiquity, with a massive tower. In the ch.-yard Wordsworth was buried. A plain blue slate flag, with the words “William Words- worth,” and under them “ Mary Wordsworth,” his widow, with the years of their respective deaths, marks the spot. On the 1. is the grave of his daughter Dora (Mrs. Quillinan), near it that of his sister Dorothy. Within the church is a marble tablet with a medallion pro- file of the poet, which was erected by subscription among his neigh- bours. The epitaph is the compo- sition of the late Rev. John Keble, the author of the ‘ Christian Year/ Near the grave are yew-trees planted many years before his death by the poet’s desire, if not with his own hands. The Rothay glides gently by, and Fairfield, Silver How, and Helm Crag look down upon the spot. “Westminster contains no resting- place so fit for him.” A little be- hind the graves of the Wordsworth family is that of Hartley Coleridge, the eldest son of S. T. Coleridge, denoted by a cruciform tombstone. The most interesting spots in the vicinity of Grasmere are — Easdale 1 m., and Easdale Tarn 3 m. The tarn is one of the finest in the district. The road to Easdale passes Butterlip How , a pictur- esque wooded hill on the rt., and then Helm Crag and Lancrigg (Lady Richardson). Easdale Force is a fine cascade, which flows over a steep ledge of rocks at the head of Easdale. The stream issues from Easdale Tarn. The character of Easdale is that of solemnity and \Westm. & Cumb . ] sternness. It is girt round by Blake- rigg Crags and Codale and Shepherd Pikes. Thence, by way of Codale Tarn and Pike and Sergeant Man, on the High Raise Moor, Borrowdale may be reached through Stone- thwaite valley. Easdale Tarn is reached by ascending a steep path by the side of Easdale Force, and then proceeding 1J m. over a mooi\ A little above Easdale Tarn is another but smaller tarn {Codale Tarn), from which a stream flows into Eas- dale Tarn. The ascent to it is steep, but the scenery will repay the trouble. Surrounded by lofty cliffs, it is a perfect picture of lone- liness and seclusion. The angling in both tarns is good, and a boat is kept on Easdale Tarn. There is a branch of the Easdale valley to the rt., called Far Easdale, very wild and solitary, and worth exploring. It is the pony-road to Borrowdale, to reach which the valley must be ascended to its head, keeping the stream on the rt. When at the top a turn at the rt. must be avoided, as it leads down to Wythburn Head. Proceeding along, keeping High Raise on the 1., the little valley of Greenup is reached. From the head of Far Easdale to Greenup the road is marked by guide-stones. From Greenup, Rosthwaite is but a short distance. The whole dis- tance from Grasmere is under 8 m., and it forms a charming excursion. The mountain streams in the neigh- bourhood of Grasmere abound in small trout, and the river, which flows from the lake into Rydal Water, sometimes affords excellent sport. Bed Bank. The most striking view of Grasmere is from this spot, 1 J m. from the ch. The ascent to it is steep ; a road however has been cut through the woods on the W. side of the lake, but, being private, can only be used by permission. Cars must ascend Red Bank by the old road. The views of the lake, vale, and surrounding mountains from this D 50 Itoute 5 . — Loughrigg. road are very grand ; on reaching the top, Helvellyn and Skiddaw are seen in the distance, Fairfield is immediately in front, and Nab Scar and the woods of Rydal Park com- plete a picture that has scarcely its equal in Westmorland. High Close , If m. on the highest part of the road to Great Langdale. Take the road to the rt. after leav- ing Red Bank. A little beyond Loughrigg, the residence of E. W. Wheatley Balme, Esq., on the 1. of the road, one of the grandest views in the country opens. Here is a seat, with the words “ Rest and be thankful ” carved on it. Windermere is seen in the distance, Elterwater lies directly below, Lang- dale with the Pikes are seen on the rt., Wetherlam in front; Bow- fell, the most picturesque of the Westmorland mountains, terminates the view to the N. There is a short route from Gras- mere into Langdale (2 m.), over the old packhorse road (once the only road from Grasmere to Whitehaven), which starts from Between Gates, on the rt. of the road by the W. side of the lake. The views from the top of this pass equal any in the vicinity of Grasmere, and comprehend the whole valley. Skiddaw is just visible through the gap of D unmail Raise. Loughrigg Tarn. The road to the 1. must be taken, leaving High Close to the rt. ; and after passing a farm- house called “ The Oaks,” and pro- ceeding \ m., the tarn is seen lying directly under Loughrigg Fell. Its banks, unlike those of tarns in gene- ral, are well wooded, and grassy meadows slope down to its brink. It is nearly circular, with an area of about 20 acres. Loughrigg (see p. 36) can be easily ascended from Red Bank. On its N. slope, and above Gras- mere Lake, is a green bridle-path called the Terrace, from which Gras- mere and Rydal Lakes are seen to great advantage. An excur- sion under Loughrigg and round the W. shore of Rydal Lake will occupy about 3 hrs., returning by the Keswick road to Grasmere. To shorten the distance a boat may be taken to the foot of the lake, from which the Terrace is easily reached. A walk by the side of Nab Scar to Rydal Mount should not be omitted. The path turns off to the 1. from the “ old road ” to Ambleside, at the top of the hill above Town End, whence it may be followed to Rydal. The views of Rydal Water and of the Rotha Yalley, with the town of Am- bleside in the distance, are delightful. The wooded crags of Nab Scar afford good subjects for the pencil. Butterlip How. The walk round this picturesque wooded knoll, about J m. from the ch. of the Easdale road, is charming, opening out views of Easdale, Helm Crag, and the loftier eminences around it. The path enters from a gate on the 1., and, winding round the How, leads into the Keswick road near the Swan. Greenhead Ghyll is situated in a gorge of the hills J m. E. of Gras- mere, and is the scene of Words- worth’s pastoral ‘ Michael.’ The incidents of the poem are historical, and the remains of the unfinished sheepfold existed within a few years. The stones have since been used for fences. The approach to Green- head Ghyll is from behind the Swan Inn. A waterfall rarely visited and little known, called Tongue Ghyll Water- fall, should be seen. At the second bridge on the Keswick road, 1 m. from the Swan, a gate opens into a field on the rt. : at the farm- house on the top of the hill a guide can be procured. The fall, although not lofty, is very beautiful, and is approached by steps cut in the bank. The chasm is partially con- cealed by overhanging wood, and the spray of the water is felt almost before the fall is seen. 51 Route 5 . — The The Wishing Gate, the subject of one of Wordsworth’s best known lyrics, is on the rt. of a former turn- pike-road now called the Middle Road, leading from Grasmere to Ambleside. It is not, however, the ancient gate with its “moss-grown bar,” which has long disappeared, but the spot retains its traditionary interest. The gate substituted for the old one is covered with the initials and names of more recent votaries. The poem is inserted here for the benefit of those who may desire to read it on the spot. “ Hope rules a land for ever green ; „ All powers that serve the bright-eyed Queen Are confident and gay; Clouds at her bidding disappear ; Points she to aught ?— the bliss draws near, And fancy smooths the way. “ Hot such the land of Wishes— there Dwell fruitless day-dreams, lawless prayer, And thoughts with things at strife ; Yet how forlorn — should ye depart, Ye superstitions of the heart — How poor were human life l “ When magic lore abjured its might, Ye did not forfeit one dear right, One tender claim abate ; Witness this symbol of your sway Surviving near the public way, The rustic Wishing-gate. “ Inquire not if the faery race Shed kindly influence on the place,. Ere northward they retired ; If here a warrior left a spell, Panting for glory as he feli ; Or here a saint expired. “ Enough that all around is fair, Composed with Nature’s finest care, And in her fondest love — Peace to embosom and content, To overawe the turbulent, The selfish to reprove. “ Yea ! even the stranger from afar, Declining on this mossgrown bar, Unknowing and unknown, 7 ‘ The infection of the ground partakes, Longing for his beloved, who makes All happiness her own. “ Then why should conscious spirits fear The mystic stirrings that are here, The ancient faith disclaim ? The local genius ne’er befriends Desires whose course in folly ends. Whose just reward is shame. Wishing Gate . “ Smile if thou wilt, but not in scorn, If some, by ceaseless pains outworn, Here crave an easier lot ; If some have thirsted to renew A broken vow, or bind a true, With firmer, holier knot. “ And not in vain, when thoughts are cast Upon the irrevocable past, Some penitent sincere May for a worthier future sigh, While trickles from his downcast eye No unavailing tear. “ The worldling, pining to be freed From turmoil, who would turn or speed The current of his fate, Might stop before this favoured scene At Nature’s call, nor blush to lean Upon the Wishing-gate. “ The Sage who feels how blind, how weak Is man, though loth such help to seek, Yet passing, here might pause, And thirst for insight to allay Misgiving, while the crimson day In quietness withdraws ; “ Or when the church-clock’s knell profound To Time’s first step across the bound Of midnight makes reply ; Time pressing on with starry crest To filial sleep upon the breast Of dread Eternity.” A few hundred yards from the Wishing Gate, at the top of the hill, on the road leading to Amble- side, is a charming view of Rydal Water, and of the fine wooded crag Nab Scar. Whitemoss How, be- hind the young larch-plantation on the 1., opposite the Wishing Gate, also affords a pleasant ramble, and commands some striking prospects. On the opposite side of the road is The Fir Grove , referred to by the poet in the Lines on the naming of places : — “ Thither do I withdraw when cloudless suns Shine hot, or winds blow troublesome and strong ; And there I sit at evening, when the steep Of Silver How and Grasmere’s peaceful lake And one Green Island gleam beneath the stems Of the dark firs, a visionary scene ! ” The larches have been cut down, but the firs remain. A young plan- tation is springing up. Fairfield (2862 ft.) should be as- cended from Grasmere. The excur- d 2 52 Route 5 . — Helvellyn — Griesdale Pass . sion will occupy 4 hrs. The name is probably derived from the Scandi- navian word Faar, signifying sheep. Fairfield is thus the sheep-mountain, from the fertility and abundance of its pastures. “ It has large smooth pastoral savannahs, to which the sheep resort when all its rocky neighbours are left desolate .” — De Quincey. The first part of the ascent is the most laborious, being rough and steep; but the pedestrian will soon find himself on the elastic mountain turf, “ crushing out a livelier fragrance” from the moun- tain flowers and wild thyme under his feet. The ascent is not difficult, the whole way being a series of grassy slopes. On the E. of the summit are Dove Crags, at the head of Deepdale, through which the green fields of Hartsop are seen. Below, on the N. side, are the precipices of Deepdale. From the summit, which is covered with turf, the different mountain- ranges seem to stretch away in bil- lowy confusion. A wide expanse of sea is visible to the S., with More- cambe and Duddon Bays and the Solway Firth. In the descent the views of the Yale of Grasmere and Easdale are very beautiful. Ulls- water, Windermere, Esth waite, Conis- ton, Grasmere, and Kydal lakes, and Elter water, Blelham, Easdale, Co- dale, and Griesdale tarns are visible from the top. The botanist will find on Fairfield Juncus triglumis, Lu- zula spicata, Sedura rhodiola, and Saxifraga platypetala. Helvellyn may be easily ascended from Grasmere; but the ascent is more generally made from Patter- dale (Kte. 9). If made from Gras- mere it will take a little more time than from Wythburn or Patterdale ; but is certainly more interesting than from Wythburn, and more gradual. It is commenced from the path close to the old mill-bridge, by the side of Tongue Ghyll, and thence by way of Horse Craggs, Griesdale Hause, to the foot of Griesdale Tam. Thence by a zigzag path to the summit of Dolly Waggon Pike (pro- bably a derivation from the Norse “ Dalei,” dales, and “ Yagen,” the way, or the pike of, i. e. guarding or marking the way or pass of the dales, as to Langdale, Rydal, Gras- mere, Wythburn, or those of Patter- dale, Martindale, Matterdale, &c.), and thence along a series of crests of hills forming nearly the whole length of the great Helvellyn range for 2 m. to the great cairn at the top, and commanding an unequalled succes- sion of vistas through declivitous gorges. The ascent can be made the whole way on a pony. Patterdale can be reached from Grasmere by the Griesdale Pass through some of the grandest moun- tain-scenery of the district, 9 m., 3J hrs. : a good horse- track. The turn- pike road is followed to a bridge rather more than a mile from the Lake Hotel ; a path to the right on the N. side of an ivy-covered cottage then leads along a narrow lane, till it comes out on the mountain pasture, keeping on the rt. bank of the stream. In about 1J hour, the latter part of the path being steep and rugged, the Col is reached; along it is a wall, through a gap in which the lonely Griesdale Tarn is seen immediately below, and a fine view is obtained down Griesdale and over Ullswater. The path goes round the S. end of the lake, and crosses the stream close to the lake. Here the path up Hel- vellyn turns to the 1., that down Griesdale to the rt. It is kept in tolerable order on this side, and follows the 1. bank of the stream for about an hour, then crosses to the rt. bank near a deserted forge and mine. In another hour the Patter- dale road is reached, with the Patter- dale Hotel to the rt., and the Ulls- water Hotel, about a mile off, to the 1. Grasmere to the Col 1J hr., Col. to Ullswater 2 hrs. If the tourist should not command sufficient time to visit all the spots Boute 5.— Thirlmere. 53 enumerated in the vicinity of Gras- mere, lie should not at least omit Easdale and the view from High Close, both of which may be accom- plished easily in a day. The road from Grasmere to Kes- wick ascends Dunmail liaise, a treeless tract between Steel Fell on the 1. and Seat Sandal on the rt. The bare naked hills which slope to the road, and the debris which are scattered over their sides, give to the scenery an aspect of dreariness and desolation. The pass of Dunmail Raise is 773 ft. above the sea. It is the lowest neck or col in the mountain chain extending from Black Combe to the Cheviot range, and on its highest part is a rude cairn (near a stone fence a few yards beyon^L the bridge, marking the division between Cumberland and Westmorland), which is sup- posed to indicate the spot where Dun- mail King of Cumberland was de- feated by Edmund King of England, a.d. 945. Before reaching the top of the pass, look back upon the vale and lake of Grasmere set in its mountain frame. At the summit a distant view of Skiddaw opens, with a glimpse of Thirlmere; the ridge of Helvellyn is on the rt. Wytliburn ( Inn : the Horse’s Head). Opposite is “ Wythburn’s modest bouse of prayer, As lowly as the lowliest dwelling.” The inn is small, but good of its kind, and is resorted to by those who intend to ascend Helvellyn from Wythburn. The distance to the summit does not exceed 2 m., but the path is very steep, the ascent commencing almost from the road- side. The Horse’s Head was formerly “ The Cherry Tree ” of Wordsworth’s ‘IWaggoner.’ (Introduction, p.xxvii.) The road now skirts the W. base , of the Helvellyn range, and runs through the vale of Legberth waite. Thirlmere , or Leathes Water , so called from the name of the pro- prietor, T. Stanger Leathes, Esq., 1 m. from the Horse’s Head. Stop at Thri- spot {Inn: King’s Head, small but comfortable, and much resorted to by anglers : a Post-office), a small ham- let a few hundred yards from the lake. The first view of Thirlmere from the Keswick road is a little disappointing. It is extremely narrow, being 3 m. in length, and scarcely, at its widest part, more than J m. in breadth. The hills on the E. side of the upper reach are bare. It is not until a considerable portion of the lake has been passed that its beauty reveals itself. The road skirts the water for about 1J m., through the vale of Legberthwaite, and then as- cends a steep hill. The scenery here improves; the hills on the 1. rise almost perpendicularly, and are par- tially wooded. The most conspi- cuous features on the opposite or western side of the lake are Shep- herd’s Crag and Raven Crag; the one rises grandly over the southern, the other over the northern divi- sion of the lake. To form, however , a true estimate of the beauty of this lake, it should be seen from its W. shore. The great majority of tourists are content to see it only from the high road. Proceed to the other side of the lake by a bridge, passing first on the rt. Dale Head Hall. The lake in its centre con- tracts to the width of only a few yards. After crossing the bridge take a pathway to the rt., where the lower reach of the lake opens out. The wooded heights of Great How and Naddle Fell impart much rich- ness to the scenery. Helvellyn towers over the E. side ; the highest peak, however, is hidden by an in- tervening shoulder of the mountain called Helvellyn End. Raven Crag on the W. rises almost perpendicularly from the water’s edge. The path may be pursued until the N. end of the lake is reached and the Keswick 54 Boute 5 . — Keswick . road entered. The S. end of the lake, although not so rich in sylvan beauty as the N., has many attrac- tions. A wooded ravine with a ghyll falling through it on the W. side should be explored. It contains num- berless little waterfalls and beautiful sylvan recesses. Thirlmere is the highest of all the Eng. lakes. It is fed by 2 rivers, the one rising inWythburn Head, the other in Harrop Tarn ; but the lake receives many small rills from Helvellyn. It abounds with trout, perch, and pike, but, being private property, the fishing is strictly preserved. The view of St. John’s Yale to the rt. in the descent from the high ground above Thirlmere is very striking. Saddleback, or Blencathra, comes suddenly into view : the narrow winding valley is richly wooded, well cultivated, and shut in by lofty hills. There is a road through the vale to Keswick, but by taking that route the view from Castlerigg of the vale of Derwentwater, one of the finest coups-d’ceil in the country, would be lost. The Yale of St. John should therefore be left for a separate excursion from Keswick. From 3 to 4 m. before Keswick is reached the scenery varies at every turn of the road which skirts Naddle Fell, and then passes for 2 m. over a bleak moor — Swarthe Moss. On arriving at a sharp turn 1 m. from the town, the Yale of Keswick suddenly opens out, with Bassenthwaite Lake in the distance, Derwentwater and Borrowdale to the 1., the town of Keswick below. The view here is admitted to be the finest in the Lake district. Keswick. Inns : The Keswick Hotel, at the rly. stat., belongs to the Keswick Hotel Company, and is finely situated on an eminence J m. from the town under the wooded hill Latrigg : the accommodation first-rate ; Koyal Oak ; Queen’s Hotel; Lake Hotel; Derwentwater Hotel. (Portinscale Hotel, 1J m.) an omnibus meets the trains. Pop. 2600. Distances. — Penrith, by rly., 18m.; Cockermouth, by rly., 13 m. ; Butter- mere by Newlands, 9 m. ; Butter- mere by Borrowdale, 14 m. Conveyances. — Kail. — Trains to Cockermouth and Penrith, 5 times a day. Coaches — Three times a day through Grasmere and Ambleside to Windermere station; a coach starts every morning for an excursion through Borrowdale, under Honis- ter Crag, to Buttermere and back to Keswick, 23 m. Boats — From the beach of the lake, 400 yards from the town. Omnibuses to Lodore and Borrowdale Hotels, 4 m., and the Derwentwater Hotel, Portinscale, 1| m. The town lies almost directly under Skiddaw. It has been long and is still chiefly known for its black-lead pencil manufactory, al- though the supply of the mineral, provincially called wad, from the mine in Borrowdale, has ceased. (For an account of this once cele- brated mine, see p. 70.) Great quantities of pencils are made in Ger- many of a mixture composed of saw- dust and small pieces of blacklead, ground to an impalpable powder, and mixed with some cohesive medium. They at one time threatened to command the market, but the Keswick manufacturers met the Ger- mans on their own ground, and, applying colour and varnish of equal quality to the sticks, beat them by superiority of lead. Black- lead, as well as being employed in the form above described, is also reduced to little cylinders, and used in the form of ever-pointed pencils. Large quantities of these cylindrical leads are now produced at Keswick. The number of lead pencils made at Keswick is computed to be 250,000 a week, or about thirteen millions a year. At an average length of seven inches, this would give 1436J miles of blacklead and cedar. Some Boats 5 . — Crosthwaite. 55 of these pencils are worth 48s. per ! gross, and some are sold as low as Is. 6d. per gross. The cedar annually consumed, amounts to about 1200 cubic feet, and yellow pine in due proportion. Much of the lead now used comes from Mexico and Peru. The number of hands employed, in- cluding men, girls, and boys, amounts to 200, and the highest wages vary from 15s. to 20s. per week. The gross amount of wages paid annually amounts to 40002. Keswick is renowned for having long been the residence of Robert Southey, LL.D., Poet Laureate. Greta Hall, his former residence, is situ- ated at a short distance from the town, on a knoll. In this beau- tiful retreat he wrote most of those works and periodical essays which gave him the highest literary position of his day. “The situa- tion of Southey's house, taking all its accessories into consideration, is exceeded by few in England. Standing on Greta Bridge, looking over the house, the eye falls on the group of mountains behind it ; the hill of Latrigg, with its larch plan- tations to the rt., and on the 1. rises the giant mass of Skiddaw, with its dells and ravines. Turning to the S., the group of mountains at the entrance of Borrowdale is most beau- tiful. If any artist would choose a scene for the entrance into fairy- land, he should take that." — Mackay. Southey died here in 1842, having resided 30 years at Greta Kali , lead- ing a life of almost unparalleled lite- rary labour. It has been said of him that he was rarely seen in his house but in the act either of using a pen or mending one. The Greta flows past the hall. The scenery of this river, where it passes under the woody side of Latrigg, is of the most pleasing kind “ — Ambiguo lapsu refluitque fluitque Occurrensque sibi venturas aspicit undas.” Southey, while walking in his^garden, had before him a scene of mountain magnificence which he duly appre- ciated, and the sublimity of the surrounding objects is certainly well calculated to produce a correspond- ing elevation of mind. The banks of the Greta were a favourite haunt of the poet, and there is no English stream to which the above truly Ovidian description could more truly apply. From a jutting isthmus, round which the tortuous river twists, you look over its manifold windings up the stream to Saddleback, and down it over a high and wooded middle-ground to the distant moun- tains of Newlands. The Greta is formed by the confluence of the Glen- deramakin river and St. John’s Beck, f m. below Threlkeld, and it then flows 4 m. W.S.W., overlooked by Latrigg on the N., and by Naddle Fell on the S., and round the N. side of Keswick, forming a junction with the Derwent at the foot of the lake. The Greta is subject to sudden floods, and then breasts the Derwent at their confluence, and sometimes forces the water of the latter river back into the lake. The parish ch. at Crosthwaite dedicated to St. Kentigern, is large, with heavy buttresses and battle- ments and a massive tower. The ch. was restored in 1845 by Jas. Stanger, Esq., of Lairthwaite, at a cost of 40002. It possesses some ancient monuments, among them one of Sir James Radcliff, Kt., an ancestor of the Earl of Derwentwater, and Dame Alice his wife, recumbent, in ala- baster. There are also some ancient brasses. The font is very curious, and bears the arms of Edw. III. The devices on it represent the Tree of Knowledge, the Passion, the Trinity, Aaron’s rod budding, &c. Southey, who is buried in the ch.-yd., has a recumbent monument in the ch., which is said to be a good like- ness, by Lough, and cost 11002., raised by subscription. The epitaph was written by Wordsworth 56 Boute 5. Walla Crag. “Ye Yales and Hills whose beauty hither drew The Poet’s steps, and fixed him here, on you His eyes have closed ! And ye, loved books, no more Shall Southey feed upon your precious lore, To Works that ne’er shall forfeit their renown Adding immortal labours of his own — Whether he traced historic truth, with zeal For the State’s guidance or the Church’s weal, Or fancy, disciplined by studious art, Informed his pen, or wisdom of the heart, Or judgments sanctioned in the Patriot’s mind By reverence for the rights of all mankind. Wide were his aims ; yet in no human breast Could private feelings find a holier nest. ' His joys, his griefs, have vanished like a cloud From Skiddaw’s top ; but he to heaven was vowed Through a life long and pure ; and Christian faith Calm’d in his soul the fear of change and death.” The Museum is worth a short visit. It contains a good collection of Cum- berland minerals and specimens of the granites, porphyries, and slates of the district, granite from Shap Fells, fossils from Saddleback slate, and some fine pieces of “wad” or black lead. There is also a good collection of antiquities, British and Roman, consisting of stone celts dis- covered in the district, coins, sculp- tures, and implements. Some of the bas-reliefs were found at Old Carlisle, and others at Caer-Mote and Papcastle ; a Roman sword, the hilt and scabbard beautifully enamelled, was found in the neigh- bourhood. There is also a rock- harmonicon formed of stones of horn- blende slate. The Model of the Lake District , by Flintoft, is exhibited in a room over the Market-house. In the upper part of the town are the new ch. of St. John and adjoining schools, all built by Mr. Marshall. Walla Crag , a height 2 m. from Keswick, was a favourite station of Southey, and one to which he invari- ably took his guests. Friar's Crag , a promontory on the E. shore of Derwentwater, rather more than a mile from Keswick, commanding a charming view of Borrowdale, was the general limit of his daily walk. If the time of the tourist should be restricted, a walk to Castle Hill or Walla Crag, and a drive through Borrowdale and round the lake, should certainly not be omitted. But the panoramic view above the town from Castlerigg (1 m.), on the Grasmere and Windermere road, is alone sufficient to repay a traveller for a long journey, for the prospect there presented has probably no equal in Great Britain. “ The Yale of Keswick with Skiddaw for its huge boundary and bulwark to the north, Bassenthwaite stretching into the open country, form a combination of water, hills, and remote horizon, in which Claude would have found all he desired, and more than even he could have represented, had he beheld it in the glory of a midsummer sunset.” The finest view in the vicinity of Keswick, next to that from Walla Crag, is from Appleth waite. “ The old roofs and chimneys of that hamlet come finely in the fore- ground, and the trees upon the Ormathwaite estate give there a richness to the middle-ground which is wanting in other parts of the vale. I know not from which of the surrounding heights it is seen to most advantage, any one will amply repay the labour of the ascent ; and often as I have ascended them all, it has never been without fresh delight.” — Southey. The view from the front of Derwent Bank is also most lovely, commanding as it does both Derwentwater and Bas- senthwaite. The one from the ter- race of Cat Bells should also be seen ; paths have been cut on the sides of this mountain by Sir John Wood- ford, whose mansion is hidden among the woods at its base. The view from above Barrow Fall is also very fine, but that from Ladder Brow above Lo- dore, an expansion of the one from Route 5 . — Derwent Barrow, is still finer. For a mountain ascent, previously to that of Skidd aw, Griesdale Pike is excellent. Take a car to Braithwaite, 2 m., or to Whin- latter, and thence ascend the Pike ; pass over to Grassmoor along the Swil, then over 111 Craggs to Causey Pike, and down to Bawling End and the Keswick and Buttermere road. This is one of the grandest moun- tain walks that can be taken. The botanist will find in the neigh- bourhood of Keswick, near Lodore , Lepidium Smithii, Barbarea ar- cuata, Thalictrum majus ; on the margin of Derwentwater , Betula alba, Circaea alpina ; near Keswick , Geranium phaeum and pyrenaicum, Cicuta virosa, Yiola lutea, Asarum Europaeum, Orchis ustulata ; Castle- head Wood, Convallaria multiflora ; on the shores of Derwentwater, Tees- dalia nudicaulis, Littorella lacustris, Juncus filiformis ; and a botanist of local repute enumerates the follow- ing as growing in the woods of Castle Hill: — Convallaria multiflora, Corydalis claviculata, Digitalis purpu- rea, Epilobium montanum, Erysimum Alliaria, Geranium lucidum, G. rober- tianum, Geum urbanum, Hyacinthus non scriptus, Hypericum humifusum, H. pulchrum, H. perforatum, Lapsana communis, Lychnis dioica, Lysima- chia nemorum, Melampyrum pra- tense, Mercurialis perennis, Orobus tuberosus, Oxalis acetosella, Prenan- thes muralis, Primula vulgaris, Bu- bus idgeus, Sanicula Europsea, Scro- phularia nodosa, Stellaria holostea, S. graminea, Tormentilla officinalis, Teucrium scorodonia, Veronica cha- msedrys, and V. officinalis. Upon the summit, — Alchemilla arvensis, Capsella bursa-pastoris, Ce- rastium vulgatum, C. viscosum, Draba verna, Galium cruciatum, G. verum, Geranium dissectum, G. molle, Ja- sione montana, Kosa spinosissima, Bumex acetosa, B. acetosella, Sedum telephium, S. anglicum. Sisymbrium fhalianum, Teesdalia nudicaulis, Thy- Water and Island . 57 mus serpyllum, Veronica arvensis, V. serpyllifolia. In the moist ground at its foot, — Angelica sylvestris, Chrysosplenium oppositifolium, Epilobium tetrago- num, Equisetum limosum, Spiraea Ulmaria, and Valeriana officinalis. Between the road to Lodore and the edge of Derwent lake, — Achillsea millefolium, A. ptarmica, Antirrhi- num linaria, Aquilegia vulgaris, both purple and white, Circsea alpina, Galium boreale, Hydrocotyle vulgaris, Lythrum salicaria, Myrica gale, Lo- tus corniculatus, Narthecium ossifra- gum, (Enanthe crocata, Orchis mas- cula, O. maculata, Parnassia palus- tris, Silene maritima, Thalictrum majus, Trollius Europaeus, Vacci- nium myrtilies, V. Oxycoccos, Vale- riana dioica, and V. officinalis. — Otley. Derwentwater is about 400 yds. from the town of Keswick, from which there is a pleasant walk to the beach, where boats can be hired. The lake, although inferior in extent to Windermere, is perhaps, if not the grandest, certainly the most beautiful of the lakes from its lovely islands, and the great variety of the valleys opening around, and the mountains which encircle it. No- thing can surpass the majesty of the mighty mass of Skiddaw on the N., and the opening vista of Borrowdale filled in by Scawfell. The moun- tains in this direction (S.), seen in certain states of the atmosphere, with their pointed and jagged peaks, might almost be taken for an Alpine range. The lake is 3 m. long, and 1 m. broad at its widest part. It is subject to much increase of volume at times from heavy rains, rising frequently 6 or 7 ft. above its ordinary summer level. The chief features on the E. are Castle Head, Walla Crag, Falcon Crag, Gowder Crag, and the Knotts ; on the N. the broken rocky mountains of Borrowdale, Castle Crag and Glara- 58 Route 5 . — Lord's Island . mara, and Great End and Scawfell in the distance; on the S. Hind- scarth and Great Robinson, and High Stile and Red Pike beyond Buttermere; on the W. Cat Bells and the heights of Newlands, with Causey Pike a prominent feature; on the N. the grand mass of Skid- daw. Derwent Island is well wooded, and has a mansion on it (H. Marshall, Esq.). The island is about 6 acres in extent ; the grounds — which are laid out with taste— may be visited in the absence of the family. It is the nearest to Keswick, from whence it may be reached by boat in a few minutes. It was once a dependency of Fountains Abbey. St. Herbert's Island , according to tradition, was the residence of St. Her- bert. It is about 1 \ m. from the Kes- wick shore of the lake. There is a landing-place on the island, which is thickly wooded and intersected with paths from which the visitor catches charming glimpses of the lake and surrounding mountains. Bede says that St. Herbert left his cell once a year to visit St. Cuthbert, and “ re- ceive from him the food of eternal life.” The recluse is said to have died here a.d. 687. A few remains of the supposed hermitage, portions of a rude building which may origin- ally have consisted of an oratory and a cell, yet exist; but a dilapi- dated summer - house, which stands in the centre of the island, must not be mistaken for the hermit’s former abode. The site of the saint’s cell is indicated only by a shapeless mass of stones a short distance from the summer-house, on the 1. of the path leading to the boat-landing. It is now impossible to trace the plan of any regular building. In the 14th cent, the island was still visited by pilgrims, and religious services were celebrated on it. There is a tradition that St. Cuthbert and St. Herbert died at the same time. 8 “He had “ A fellow labourer, whom the good man loved As his own soul. And, when with eye up- raised To heaven he knelt before the crucifix, While o’er the lake the cataract of Lodore Pealed to his orisons, and when he paced Along the beach of this small isle, and thought Of his companion, he would pray that both (Now that their earthly duties were ful- filled) Might die in the same moment— nor in vain So prayed he : as our chronicles report, Though here the Hermit numbered his last day Far from St. Cuthbert his beloved friend. These holy men both died in the same hour.” — Wordsworth. Lord's Island is said to have been originally a peninsula, and, after the erection of the mansion upon it, to have been severed from the main- land by a deep, wide, artificial cut, which served as a fosse, and was spanned by a drawbridge. It is so called from its having belonged to the Earls of Derwentwater, and the house is supposed to have been built out of the materials of a more imposing edifice on Castle- rigg, which the family relinquished when they took up their resi- dence at Dilston, in Northum- berland, on the marriage of the heiress of Sir John de Derwentwater with a Radcliff. The foundations of the walls still exist, and the walks of the pleasure-grounds can be dis- tinctly traced. The situation is all that could be desired for a sequestered abode. The rooks have now undis- turbed possession of the island. The whole of the land on the N.E. side of the lake belonged to the Derwent- water family until 1715, when Jas. Radcliff, the young Earl of Der- wentwater, forfeited them by taking part in the Jacobite rebellion. The Derwentwater property was then con- ferred on Greenwich Hospital. The land bordering on the lake, with the island, was afterwards sold to John Marshall, Esq., of Leeds, but not before much of the timber had been JEtoute 5 . — Lodore. 59 cut down. A ravine of Walla Crag is still called the Lady’s Eake, being the supposed path by which the Countess of Derwent water effected her escape on hearing of her hus- band's capture. She fled, it is said, not from the officers of justice, but from the rage of the peasantry, who believed her to be the cause of the Earl of Derwentwater’s misfortune, having instigated him to take part in the rebellion against his better judgment and the advice of his friends. The people of the district were strongly attached to him. The Earl was captured at Preston in Nov. 1715. His trial took place in West- minster Hall, and he was beheaded on Tower Hill the 23rd Feb. 1716. The peasantry interpreted a remark- able brilliancy of an aurora borealis on the night of his execution as a manifestation of the anger of Heaven at his death, and the aurora is still called in the North “ Lord Der- wentwater s Lights.” There is a tradition that the greater part of the Derwent water plate is still at the bot- tom of the lake. Rampsholm is a small island covered with low brush- wood and a few fir-trees. An admirer of the poetry of Rogers will feel a peculiar interest in Derwentwater, the scenery of which is well described in the ‘ Pleasures of Memory.' A drive round the lake is the best mode of seeing it. The distance is 10 m. A good road skirts the shores. Barrow House, 3 rn. (S. Z. Langton, Esq.), is first passed, in the grounds of which is the Barrow Fall , a cas- cade 120 ft. high, and scarcely infe- rior to any in the district. 1 m. beyond Barrow House is Lodore Inn (small, but comfortable and reasonable). The celebrated waterfall and the fine scenery of Bor- rowdale make this spot a favourite resort. The fall is approached through the garden of the inn. If there should be much water the scene will recall the well-known and amusing lines of Southey — 4 How does the water come down at Lodorel ’ from which a few lines may be quoted — “How does the water come down at Lodore? Here it comes sparkling, And there it lies darkling ; Here smoking and frothing, Its tumult and wrath in, It hastens along, conflictingly strong ; Now striking and raging, as if a war waging, In caverns and rocks among. Rising and leaping, Sinking and creeping, Swelling and flinging, Showering and springing, Eddying and whisking, Spouting and frisking, Turning and twisting Around and around ; Collecting, disjecting. With endless rebound ; Smiting and fighting — A sight to delight in ; Confounding, astounding, Dizzying and deafening the ear with its sound. And so never ending, but always de- scending, Sounds and motions for ever and ever emblending. All at once and all o’er, with a mighty uproar, — And in this way the water comes down at Lodore.” The fall descends through a chasm between the two perpen- dicular rocks, Gowder Crag on the 1. and Shepherd’s Crag on the rt. The sides are clothed with oak, ash, and birch. The water dashes over fragments of rocks piled on each other, but in no place, unless after heavy rain, does it descend more than a few yards at a leap. The stream flows from Watendlath, and when heavy rains have augmented its volume it precipitates itself furiously over the barrier above, roaring so as to be heard, it is said, for a distance of 10 miles, and “scattering the foam of its wrath far and wide.'' The height of the ravine is 150 ft. The river Derwent enters the lake nearly in front of the Lodore Inn. A considerable tract of marshy ground here rather disfigures the lake ; and near Lodore there occasionally ap- pears in dry weather the singular phenomenon of the floating island. It is simply a network of tangled 60 Route 5 . — Grange. weeds, which, rendered buoyant by gas evolved from decayed vegetable matter, rises and floats on the surface. It has been known to remain there for months, and has sometimes attained the size of half an acre, with a thick- ness of 4 ft. In substance it is not unlike a mass of peat bog. The gas is highly inflammable. The water of Derwent water is much impreg- nated with vegetable matter, and its purity, but not its translucence, is somewhat impaired by the drainage of lead-mines. It is to these causes that the absence of char is probably owing, for more than one attempt has been made to naturalise the fish in the lake, but without success. A singular phenomenon of this lake is what is popularly called the “ bottom wind.” The water is said to be sometimes agitated by waves when the atmosphere is perfectly still, which is supposed to be caused by an evolution of air from beneath. But if air is disengaged it would, according to Dr. Davy, be seen rising in bubbles, not producing waves. If the fact of there being waves on the lake in a calm state of the atmosphere should be proved, there must, he says, be some other cause for their production than this imaginary “bottom wind.” About J m. beyond the Lodore Inn is the new and handsome Bor- rowdale Hotel. ( Omnibus to Kes- wick daily.) Borrowdale is one of the most beautiful valleys of the Lake District. It is bounded at the head by a noble group of mountains with varying outlines, but generally of a bold character, the sides are cleft by ravines, and the head of the valley contracts into narrow defiles. The lower parts of the valley possess a great diversity of rock and wood, and the colouring and forms of the knolls and promontories are emin- ently picturesque. The river that runs through it, sometimes called Derwent River, sometimes Borrow- dale Beck, is of crystalline pureness, and flows now brightly over pebbles, now settles into deep transparent pools. Two of its head streams rise on Bow Fell within ^ a mile of each other, and then diverge, the one to the N.N.E. the other to the N.N.W. until they are 2 m. apart, and they then gradually converge at Bos- thwaite 4^ m. N. of their source. The two streams are separated during the earlier part of their course by the range of Glaramara. The eastern one is flanked on the rt. by the Stake and Eagle Crag, it then receives a tributary from the glen of Greenup, and then descends be- tween Glaramara on the 1. and a range of fells on the rt. past the hamlet of Stonethwaite to the com- mencement of Borrowdale proper at Rosthwaite. A foot-path leads from its higher part over the Stake into Great Langdale ; another leads up Greenup, past White Stones, into Easdale, and thence to Grasmere. The western head stream is flanked on the 1. by the mountains of Great End and Aaron End, then is joined at Stockley Bridge by a brook coming down from Sty Head, it then passes the hamlet of Sea- thwaite and the blacklead mine, and then at the farm of Seatoller is joined on the 1. by the glen of Bor- rowdale Hause, and passes into the general vale of Borrowdale. The united stream receives thencefor- , ward no tributaries but rills, and pursues a sinuous course to Derwent- water. The basin of the Derwent contains about 2009 acres of good land, chiefly pasture. The Eastern head glen of the valley has a romantic character, and is made more interesting by the fine rock of Eagle Crag, which commands a fine view into the vale below Stone- thwaite. The Western head glen is also full of character, Great End rising grandly above it. Grange derives its name from having been the place where the monks of Furness, who owned Route 5.—Rosthwaite — Seathwaite. 61 considerable property in Borrow- dale, stored their corn. It forms, with its pretty bridge and wood- crowned heights, a charming picture. There are a tew small lodging-honses in the village. The gorge of Borrow- dale is so narrow as apparently to terminate a very short distance above Grange, bnt a good road traverses the valley, overhung in many places by beetling crags, intermixed with shrubs, trees, and grassy knolls. The cause of this fertility is the charac- ter of the rock, which is of igneous origin, not unlike basalt, which ac- counts for the fractured and irregular character of the valley. In some places the disintegration of the cliffs is so great that huge masses fre- quently fall after frosts, and their sides are covered with debris. The Boulder or Bowder Stone , a mass of metamorphic rock 62 ft. long and 36 ft. in height, and weighing nearly 2000 tons, is not, as was long be- lieved, derived from the neighbour- ing heights, but was transported and deposited in its present position by a glacier in a remote geological epoch (see Introduction, p. xvii.). Castle Crag , an eminence rising midway in the jaws of Borrowdale, nearly opposite to the Bowder Stone, and on which, according to tradition, the Komans had a fortress which commanded the pass of Bcrrowdale. No trace of any such fortification now remains, although it is said to have been garrisoned from Furness as late as the 16th centy. The crag should be ascended for the beautiful view which it commands of the whole of Borrowdale. 100 years ago there was only a pack-road through this romantic valley. Hay was carried on the backs of horses, and continued to be so long after a carriage-road had been made. Rosthwaite , 1 m. beyond the Bow- der Stone. A day may be well passed here to enjoy the beauties of the upper part of Borrowdale, Stonethwaite, and Seathwaite. The valley above Bos- thwaite separates into 3 branches, one leading by the Stake Pass of extreme beauty into Langdale, another by the Sty Head Pass (from “ Stui,” Norse for ladder — the Ladder Head, a sig- nificant name) to Wastdale, the third by Seatoller and Honister Crag to Buttermere. The last is prac- ticable for cars; the two first may be traversed by ponies. Near the head of the Valley of Stonethwaite, at the junction of the Stonethwaite and Lang Strath Dales, is Eagle Crag , a lofty cliff long the haunt of the eagles which once abounded in Borrowdale. Eagle Crag, from its inaccessible precipices, was long occupied by these birds with impunity, but men let down by ropes from the top of the cliff at length found means of taking the eggs or destroying the young. Eagles have long disappeared from the Lake district, and buzzards and hawks are now the only birds of prey, al- though ravens are found on many of the fells, and occasionally at- tack lambs. The depredation com- mitted by eagles was formerly very great. Seathwaite is in the heart of the Lake district, and is reached by fol- lowing the straight road after leaving Stonethwaite on the 1. and Seatoller on the rt. Here are the famous Bor- rowdale yews — “ Beneath whose sable roof Of houghs, as if for festal purpose decked With unrejoicing berries, ghostly shapes May meet at noontide, there to celebrate, As in a natural temple scattered o’er With altars undisturbed of mossy stone. United worship, or in mute repose To lie and listen to the mountain flood Murmuring from Glaramara’s inmost caves.” — Wordsworth. The valley of Seathwaite has a greater rainfall than, with one exception, any other spot in Eu- rope where a rain-gauge has been kept, 160 in. having been registered in 12 months. In the course of one month (February, 1848) the enorm- ous quantity of 30 in, of rain was 62 Route 5 . — Skiddaw . registered at Seathwaite ; but on Sprinkling Fell, 1| m. from Sea- thwaite in a S.E. direction, and 580 feet above it, one-third more rain falls than even at Seathwaite. The return to Keswick should be made through Grange and by the W. shore of the lake. The road passes the foot of Cat Bells (1482 ft.). The finely- wooded banks of the opposite shore are seen to great ad- vantage. After the lake is passed the road enters the high road near Portinscale. In Borrowdale are found Saxifraga oppositiflora, Silene acaulis, and Prenanthes muralis. Ascent of Skiddaw (3059 ft.) — “ who shrouds His double front amidst Atlantic clouds, And pours forth streams more sweet than Castaly.” A characteristic of the mountain is its double front; hence the name, from skidr , old Norse, signifying a separation or division : the name being equivalent to the divided or two-fold mountain. It can be easily ascended in about 2J hrs. The summit is distant from Keswick 6 m. The charge for a guide is 5s. The route to the foot of the mountain is by the Cocker- mouth road, striking off to the rt. from the Crossthwaite Sunday-school, or from the back of the rly. station, making for Spooney Green farmhouse, and proceeding along the W. slope of Latrigg, where there is a good bridle path, and from which the views of Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite are exquisite. On leaving Latrigg, a ravine which separates that spur of Skiddaw from the mountain is crossed. Making now a short de- scent to the 1., the second and more laborious stage of the ascent commences. A small refreshment house, about 1 m. distant, affords an excellent guiding point, and it is easily reached by following the direction of the wall in front. From the refreshment hut the track is well defined to the summit. From the steepest part of the slope a fine view of Derwent- water is attained, and the lake is seen in its whole extent ; in- deed, the views from this part of the mountain are preferred by many to those from the summit. After surmounting the more ab- rupt slope, a plain about 1 m. in extent intervenes before the moun- tain-top is reached, which is indicated by a pile of stones erected by the Ordnance Surveyors. The summit commands a panorama 300 m. in cir- cumference. From Keswick to the top of Skiddaw the barometer falls 3 in. The counties of Cumberland and Westmorland are defined sometimes almost to their minutest features. To the N. is the Solway Frith, Criffel Mountain in Scotland, and the Cheviots ; to the W. is the Irish Sea, the Isle of Man, Grasmoor and Griesdale Pike ; on the S. Helvel- lyn, Scawfell, and the Fells of Bor- rowdale, “ a turbulent chaos of dark mountains,” beyond which are caught glimpses of Morecambe Bay, the Mouth of the Duddon, and of the sea ; on the E. is Crossfell, and. be- tween it and Helvellyn, Ingleborough, in Yorkshire. The houses and corn- fields of the Scottish coast are some- times clearly distinguishable, with mountains rising above mountains in the distance. To enumerate all that can be seen from the top of Skid- daw would be to catalogue nearly all the mountains of Cumberland and Westmorland, and some others far beyond them. Windermere cannot be seen. In looking in the direc- tion of that lake, through the gap of Dunmail Raise, the estuary of the Kent below Milnthorpe is some- times visible. Penrith may be faintly seen to the 1., with Broug- ham Castle and Hall. Bassen- thwaite appears very close, as do the puffing railway trains on the Cockermouth and Keswick line which skirts the lakes, but Der- wentwater is concealed by an el- Boute 5 . — Bassenthwaite Lake . 63 bow of the mountain, which makes the view from the summit, grand as it is, inferior in a picturesque point of view to the one from its slope. A complete bird’s-eye view of Derwentwater, however, is obtained from the third “ Man,” as one of the minor eminences is called. The ex- tent of the view is, of course, deter- mined by the state of the atmosphere, which is seldom favourable. It is a prospect extending as far as the eye can reach, but the distance is often dim and indistinct. It is often piercingly cold at the top when the heat is considerable in the vale below. Skiddaw is composed of a dark blue slaty schist, intersected in many places with veins of quartz. “ The slate, particularly in the lower part of the mountain, has been metamorphosed and mineralised by the long-continued action of subter- ranean heat, for the granite has broken out near the base, particu- larly at Syning Ghyll, between Saddle- back and Skiddaw, and at a nearer level near the Oaldew, in the channel of which it may be seen for more than a mile.” — Sedgwick. The beautiful colouring of the mosses, lichens, and heaths will not escape notice. On Skiddaw and its slopes are found Salix herbacea, Narthecium ossifragum, or bog as- phodel ; on the slopes, Oarex rigida, Saxifraga aizoides, Saxifraga stellaris, Viola lutea, Calluna vulgaris, Vac- cinium myrtilies (bilberry); and on the summit, Vitis idsea (red whortle- berry). The best period of the day for ascending Skiddaw must of course depend upon the state of the weather. As a rule, the early morning is to be preferred, and generally, the sooner a tourist is on the top after the sun has risen, the better. The atmosphere is never so transparent or the colour- ing so fine as after one of those summer floods which, sometimes last- ing for 2 or 3 days, often severely try the patience of tourists; but a drizzling morning may not be un- favourable for an ascent, and the guides are very good judges of the probability of the weather clear- ing up. If they should speak en- couragingly, the tourist, notwithstand- ing appearances, should not hesitate ; and he may be gratified by a spectacle which he will not speedily forget. When he has accomplished perhaps half the ascent the mists will sud- denly disperse, and the whole mag- nificent panorama will be flooded with dazzling sunshine. A portion of the fatigue of the ascent may be saved by taking a car to Millbeck, 2 m., passing Underscar (W. Oxley, Esq.), by which the cir- cuitous route by Latrigg will be saved, and the ascent commence about 1 m. below the refreshment-house on the lower slope of Skiddaw. Bassenthwaite Lake, 3 m. N.E. of Keswick, is not so much visited as it deserves to be. Its shores do not possess the variety and grandeur of Derwentwater, but the richly- wooded banks on the E. side of the lake, with Skiddaw towering above the other, give it many attrac- tions. The lake is 4 m. long, and at its N. extremity 1 m. in breadth ; at its lower end it is little more than i m. The E. side is indented with three bays; opposite is a ridge of steep hills, which sink abruptly to the water’s edge, and are clothed to their base with wood. A good mode of seeing the lake is to proceed along its E. shore to Armathwaite ; a road to the 1. leads to Braidness, one of the promontories which, with Bowness on the S. and Scamess on the N., form the three bays. The road then leaves the lake. A pedes- trian may take the path to the 1. near the little ch. of Bassenthwaite, and thus see more of its banks than if he only followed the road. A good view is obtained from the Castle Inn, 7 m., 4 m. beyond, on 64 Bonte 5 . — Vale of St. John. the Wigton road, near which is the small tarn called Overwater , one of the sources of the river Ellen, which flows into the Irish Sea at Mary- port. It is famed for its trout. Ar- mathwaite Hall is finely situated amidst woods at the head of the lake. A good road leads round the head of the lake to Ouse Bridge, 1 m. from which is Peel Wylie. Here is a small Inn (the Pheasant) on the Oockermouth road, and close to it the Bassenthwaite Stat. of the Oockermouth, Keswick, and Penrith Rly. The lake may perhaps be best seen by taking the rly. from Kes- wick to the Bassenthwaite Stat., where a boat can be procured, and by rowing for about 2 or 3 m. up the lake a good idea may be obtained of its general character. The scenery on the old coach-road from Peel Wyke to Keswick is de- lightfully varied, and the occasional glimpses of the lake, of Skiddaw, and of the Yale of Bassenthwaite through the woods are charming. At Wy- throp the lake is seen as an ex- panded and noble sheet of water. A ride or drive on the old Cocker- mouth road will afford much plea- sure. Portinscale , 1J m. from Keswick. A post-office. (Inn: the Derwent- water Hotel, good and reasonable, fronting the lake.) There are a few good lodging-houses, and from the fine views which it commands of Herwentwater and Borrowdale this place is often preferred as a tem- porary residence to Keswick. The Vale of St. John. This beau- tiful valley is 4 m. from Keswick. The rly. may be taken to Threl- keld, 3 m., a small village lying directly under Saddleback, but the old coach-road must be taken to enable a tourist to visit the Druidical Circle, 1 J m. from Keswick, in a field on the rt. of the road on the crown of the hill. It consists of a number of upright stones, the largest 7 ft. high, all of un- hewn granite and differing in size. The space is 30 ft. from E. to W., and 32 from N. to S. On the E. side is a small oblong enclosure which may have been the most sacred part of the temple, and as it fronts the E. it ' has been supposed to have reference to the veneration of the Druids for the sun. The Vale of St. John is shut in by lofty hills. Through it runs the fine stream of St. John’s Beck, which issues from Thirlmere, and effects a junction witli the Glenderamakin at the bridge a little below Threlkeld, after which it unites with the Greta. The banks of St. John’s Beck are wooded, and the meadows are studded with neat farmhouses. The upper portion of the river is the very per- fection of a trout-stream, flowing over rocks and with deeps and shal- lows in succession. The Yale is “ en- chanted ground,” and there is a sin- gular legend connected with it. In Sir W. Scott’s ‘ Bride of Triermain’ the Castle Rock, at the further end of the valley, is the fairy castle supposed to be seen by King Ar- thur on his way to Carlisle. The crag, which at a distance bears a striking resemblance to a castle perched on a height, is found on approaching it to be a mass of symmetrically-arranged rocks. The legend is that an enchanted castle is transformed into a pile of rocks whenever it is approached by mortal footsteps. “ No tower or fortress can he spy, Darkening against the morning sky ; But, on the spot where once they frowned, The lonely streamlet brawls around ; A tufted knoll where, dimly shown, Fragments of rock and rifted stone, Paled in by many a lofty hill, The narrow dale lay smooth and still, And down its verdant bosom led, A wandering brooklet found its bed. But midmost of the vale a mound Arose, with airy turrets crowned, Buttress and ramparts circling bound, And mighty keep and tower. Seemed some primaeval giant’s band The castle’s massive walls had planned, A pondrous bulwark to withstand Ambitious Nimrod’s power,” 'Route 5.— Saddleback. 65 There are people now living in the vale who believe the Castle Rock to be an antediluvian struc- ture. Lying directly under Saddleback is a farmhouse, the remains of Threl- keld Hall, once the mansion of Sir Lancelot Threlkeld, a power- ful Border knight. He used to boast that he possessed three noble houses, — one for pleasure, Crosby in Westmorland, where he had a park well stocked with deer ; one for profit and warmth, Yanwith near Penrith ; and one, Threlkeld, well stocked with tenants to go with him to the wars. At the end of the vale, and a little beyond the Castle Rock, is Naddle Fell , a fine wooded rock rising abruptly from the river; the hill beyond is Great How, a conspi- cuous feature in the scenery of Thirlmere. The Yale of St. John was visited by a frightful inundation in 1749. The inhabitants, during a sultry August day, suddenly heard a strange noise in the air or on the mountains. It continued, although all was still around, like a mighty rushing wind, for two hours, when suddenly a tem- pest of extraordinary violence broke over Saddleback, the sides of which immediately resembled a roaring cataract. Vast boulders were swept down from its summit and slopes into the valley below, and some of the rocks brought down by the flood could only be moved by 12 horses. Saddleback or Blencathra (2847 ft.) may be ascended from Threlkeld, but the views from the summit do not dif- fer much from those of Skiddaw, the bases of the two mountains touching each other; but the peculiar form of Blencathra, its deep gorges and stem precipices, make the ascent one of much interest and some little excitement. The sides are scarred by ravines, and strewn with debris, the effects of waterspouts breaking upon what was once the smooth grassy side of the mountain. Southey suggests another route to the top. “ The tourist who would enjoy the scenery of Blencathra should proceed about 6 miles along the Penrith road, then take the road that leads to Hesket New Market, and presently ascend by a shepherd’s path which winds up the side of the ravine. This route is somewhat further than that from Threlkeld. The road or path is 1 m. from the village of Scales, and follows the stream of the Glenderamakin, which flows from Scales or Threlkeld Tarn, then proceeds up the side of Souter Fell.” — Southey. At the base of an enormous perpendicular rock, called Tarn Crag, near Linthwaite Pike, is a tarn which from the darkness of its water has been absurdly said to reflect the stars at noon. 3 m. from Scales Tarn is Bowscale Tarn , through which flows a tributary of the Caldew. Connected with this tarn is the legend of the two im- mortal fish referred to by Words- worth in his 4 Feast of Brougham Castle.’ “ Both the undying fish that swim In Bowscale Tarn did wait on him ; The pair were servants of his eye In their immortality ; They moved about in open sight, To and fro for his delight.” The allusion is to Henry Lord Clifford, “ the Shepherd Lord,” who in the wars of the Roses owed his life, after his father’s fall on the bloody field of Ferrybridge, to his concealment among these mountains. He was brought up as a shepherd until he came of age. The story is told by Southey in his * Collo- quies,’ and by Wordsworth in his poem. The father of Henry Lord Clifford was John Lord Clifford, the formidable Lancastrian noble who slew the young Earl of Rut- land at the battle of Wakefield, which was the cause of his falling into such odium with the partisans of the House of York that they would ,66 . 'Route 5 . — Watendlath . in retaliation have killed young Clifford, if they could have caught him. John Lord Clifford was the “ blackfaced Clifford ” of Shak- speare : — “Not when my father York and Edward- wept i To hear the piteous moan that Rutland made When black-faced Clifford shook his sword at him.” — Rich. III., act 1, scene 2. The young Clifford is supposed to have been brought up at a farmhouse somewhere in the neighbourhood of Threlkeld; he was only 7 years old at the time of his father’s death, and obtained possession of his property and honours soon after Henry VII. was seated on the throne. He had never been taught to read or write, but nevertheless spoke in Parliament with much wisdom and discretion. His tastes were strongly inclined to rural life, and he passed the greater portion of his time in the country, attending to his estates, and superintending the reparation of his castles. He died at Brougham Castle, a.d. 1523, aged 70. His mother married Sir Lancelot Threlkeld. The knight aided in the conceal- ment of the young lord, who was brought up as a shepherd, “ Well pleased in rustic garb to feed His flock, and pipe on shepherd’s reed, Among this multitude of hills, Crags, woodlands, waterfalls, and rills.” “ Love had he found in huts where poor men lie, His daily teachers had been woods and rills ; The silence that is in the starry sky, The sleep that is among the lonely hills. “ In him the savage virtue of the race, Revenge and all ferocious thoughts, were dead ; Nor did he change, but kept in lofty place The wisdom which adversity had bred.” A singular and well-attested atmo- spheric phenomenon was observed on Saddleback in the last century. On Midsummer Eve, 1745, it ap- peared covered with troops who de- filed over it for more than an hour, and disappeared in a crevice near the summit. The explanation of the phenomenon was that on the evening in question some mounted partizans of the Stuarts were exercising on the western coast, and their movements were refracted by some peculiar con- dition of the atmosphere upon the summit of Saddleback. There is a tradition of a spectral army, proba- bly originating in some similar cause, having been seen marching over Helvellyn on the eve of the battle of Marston Moor : — “ Anon appears a brave, a gorgeous show Of horsemen— shadows moving to and fro ; At intervals imperial banners stream, And now the van reflects the solar beam; While silent stands the admiring crowd below, Silent the visionary warriors go, Winding in ordered pomp their upward way, Till the last banner of their long array Has disappeared, and every trace is fled Of splendour — save the mountain’s lofty head Tipped with eve’s latest gleam of burning red.” — Wordsworth. Watendlath , 5 m. from Keswick, is one of the most secluded and primi- tive villages in the Lake district. “ A lowly vale, but yet uplifted high Among the mountains.” Near it is a tarn from which issues the stream of the Lodore Fall. Watend- lath may be reached by a road behind Barrow* House, which is continued by the side of the stream which flows from the tarn to Lodore. The village contains only a few cottages, and there is probably no part of the district where the inhabitants five so completely secluded. The tarn is bordered by meadows, and surrounded with wild and barren hills. A pedes- trian may cross Wythburn Fells, a moor which separates Thirlmere from Borrowdale, and descend upon the lake at Armboth, 4 m. On a fine autumnal day when the peat mosses are dry, there are few finer walks, but as there is no defined track it would be prudent to take a guide from Rosthwaite. The views of Thirlmere and of Helvellyn iu Route 6 . — Keswick to Crummock Water. 67 the descent to the lake are extremely fine. [Should the tourist be desirous of proceeding at once to Ullswater from Keswick, he can either take the rly. to Penrith (18 m.) and the coach thence to Pooley Bridge at the foot of the lake (Rte. 13), or, stopping at the Troutbeck stat. (p. 84), take the coach thence to Patterdale. There is a road also by Threlkeld, Matterdale, and Dockwray, which enters the high road from Pooley Bridge to Patterdale a little to the 1. of Lyulph’s Tower ; or a pedestrian may take a shorter mountain path from the entrance of St. John’s Yale to the Grasmere road, which will lead him into the Glencoin valley (Rte. 13), from which he can reach Patterdale by the high road. The road by Dockwray presents some exceedingly fine scenery. In the course of the descent from the high ground perhaps the finest and most perfect view of Ullswater is to be obtained.] ROUTE 6. KESWICK TO CRUMMOCK WATER AND BUTTER MERE-—1. BY WHIN- LATTER AND SWINSIDEJ 2. BY THE VALE OF NEWLANDS; 3. BY BOR- ROWDALE AND HONISTER CRAG. There is no public conveyance from Keswick to Crummock. There are 3 roads : — • 1. over Whinlatter, 10 m.; 2. by the vale of New- lands and Buttermere, 13 m. ; 3. by Borrowdale over Honister Crag, 14 m. The shortest route to Crum- mock is over Whinlatter, turning off to the 1. from the road leading to Lorton Yale a little before High Lorton is reached, and passing the hamlet of Swinside. The views from Whinlatter are exceedingly fine, embracing a great extent of sea and land. Scale Hill , 10 m., 1 m. from Crum* mock Water (Inn, Scale Hill Hotel, reasonable, but inferior to the best hotels of the district. It is de- sirable to engage beds, as the de- mand for accommodation is often greater than the hotel can supply, and there is no other inn). Distances . — Cockermouth, 8 m. ; the Bassenth waite Stat. of the Cocker- mouth, Keswick, and Penrith Rly., 9 m. A walk of a few minutes from the inn conducts to the “Station” — a hill in Langthwaite Wood, from which there is a magnificent view of Crummock Water and of the moun- tains which encircle it. A path cut through the woods leads down to Crummock Water. The banks are generally bare, but at its N.W. end they are finely wooded. Bold and rugged hills rise on both sides, and the scenery at the head of the lake ap- proaches sublimity. There is a deep seclusion in the situation of this lake which adds much to its charms. It is nearly 3 m. in length, J m. in breadth. In its deepest parts it is 20 fathoms, and it seldom freezes. The islands are too near the shores to add much to its beauty. Looking up the lake from its lower end two promontories appear to divide it into two reaches. The mountains Whiteless Pike, Ladhouse, and Grasmoor flank the E. side down from Rannerdale Knot. Whiteside and Low Fell at the head of the Yale of Lorton, the former on the E. side the latter on the W., though somewhat below the foot of the lake, enter into the prospect. The moun- tains of Buttermere, also High Stile, Haystacks, Honister Crag, and the summits of the mountains beyond them — viz., Great Gable, Kirk Fell, Great End, and Scaw Fell, figure grandly in the views from the lake or from its northern shores. A point about 25 yards above the promontory 68 Route 6 . — Scale Force — Lorton Vale . of Melbreak commands the whole of both Buttermere and Crum- mock Lakes. The best general views are from a rocky point on the E. side of the lake, called the Hause ; from a promontory below Melbreak called Ling Crag ; from the road between Scale Hill and Lowes- water; but more especially from the end of a carriage-drive through the wood opposite the hotel, and in which openings have been cut. Trout and char abound in the lake, but the trout are not so fine as those of Windermere and Derwentwater. The angling is uncertain, and it is late in the spring before the fish will rise, owing to the coldness of the water. Char are seldom taken with the fly. The two principal mountains which shut in Crummock Water are Grassmoor, on its E., and Melbreak on its W. side. Whiteless Pike, Robinson, Ran- nerdale Knot, Fleet worth Pike, Hon- ister Crag, Red Pike, High Stile, the Haystacks (supposed to be an old Norse name, viz. Heystackr, or, as some think, only a corruption of Highs tacks), and Great Gable, all contribute more or less to the scenery. The general character of Crummock is that of bold and naked grandeur. A boat-house belonging to the inn is reached by a pretty walk of J m. through the wood; the boat should be taken for an ex- cursion on the lake. Scale Force. The fall is on the E. side of the lake, about 3 m. from Scale Hill, and about 1 m. from the lake. It is the loftiest waterfall in Cumberland and Westmorland, the descent of the water being 156 ft. in a single leap. It lies in a hollow on the side of Red Pike, and the torrent enters the gorge as it were through the shaft of a mine. The quantity of water is not consider- able unless after heavy rain, when the torrent descending from so great a height raises a cloud of spray from the basin into which it falls. Masses of syenite, “ black drizzling crags,” rise perpendicularly, and expose deep clefts and crevices in their sides, from which shrubs and trees project, giving an extremely solemn character to the scene. Lorton Vale. An excursion to this valley may be made from Scale Hill. The road from Keswick to Scale Hill, over Whinlatter, leaves the Yale of Lorton on the rt. until within a short distance of Scale Hill, when it enters it. The upper part may be visited from Scale Hill. The scenery is pleasing, but not par- ticularly striking. Cultivated fields with wooded knolls, neat homesteads and cottages, form a pretty combina- tion. 2 m. from Scale Hill is the celebrated yew-tree — “ Pride of Lorton Vale, Which to this day stands, single, in the midst Of its own darkness, as it stood of yore ; Of vast circumference and gloom profound This solitary tree, a living thing Produced too slowly ever to decay; Of form and aspect too magnificent To be destroyed.” It is at High Lorton, \ m. from the village of Lorton. At Lorton is a curious old castellated mansion, Lorton Hall ; the date 1663. The Cocker runs through the Yale of Lorton, and effects a junction with the Derwent at Cockermouth. Grassmoor, the mountain which rises directly over the Scale Hill road to Buttermere, forms one of the pro- minent features of the views from Crummock Water. It can be easily ascended from Scale Hill. Keswick may be reached by a pedestrian by a fine mountain-walk over Causey Pike and Grassmoor, which will bring him out on the Newlands road, about 2 m. from Portinscale. 2. Route from Keswick, by the Vale of Newlands , to Buttermere . — The road through the Yale of Newlands and Buttermere to Crummock passes through Portiuscale, and a good carriage-road, skirting the southern flank of Swinside, leads to Butter- Route 6 . — Butter mere — Bed Pike. 69 mere. At Bawling End the scenery is very striking, whether looking hack upon Skiddaw and the Yale of Keswick, across the valley towards Cat Bells, or up the Yale of New- lands. Above Keskadale, the road ascends steeply under Robinson up to a mountain- wall, which seems to bar further progress ; but a sudden turn of the road, to the rt., reveals a new and striking pros- pect, and the sharp descent to the village and lake of Buttermere opens up one of the grandest scenes in the Lake district. “ The chain of mountains developed in the de- scent of the Hause is most mag- nificent. The appearance of High Stile, and of the scene from Green Crags to Red Pike, is scarcely equalled in Cumberland/’ — Words- worth. The fall called Sourmilk Ghyll, which issues from Bleaberry Tarn, is a prominent feature. Many of the mountain passes of the Lake district are wild and desolate enough, but the hills here sweeping gracefully down, without wood, rock, or broken ground of any kind, pre- sent a rare scene of pastoral beauty combined with mountain sublimity. Buttermere (a Post-office. Inns: Victoria ; The Fish ; both small, with very humble accommodation). The lake lies in a hollow formed by Ro- binson and Hindscarth, two moun- tains which rise abruptly from its brink on the E., and by Haystacks, High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike on the W. The dark shadows thrown by the mountains which im- pend over this small lake upon its deep and sullen waters give it a singularly gloomy character. It is 1J m. long and about J m. broad, and is separated from Crummock Water by a few meadows. The two lakes are connected by a stream. The path to the 1. of “The Fish” leads to a bridge over the river joining Buttermere to Crummock Water; the path on the rt. leads across some fields to the boat-landing on Crum- mock, where the tourist can be ferried across the lake to within J m. of Scale Force. Bed Bike ought, if possible, to be ascended from Buttermere. There is no track, but the ascent is easy from Scale Force. From the sum- mit the view comprises the lakes of Ennerdale, Crummock, Buttermere* and part of Derwentwater, including St. Herbert’s Island, the mountains Blake Ley, Blake Fell, Melbreak, Revelin, Low Fell, Grassmoor, Lad- house, Skiddaw, Saddleback, Robin- son, High Stile, Kirkfell, Great Gable, Pillar, Steeple, Haycocks, and a part of the Black Sail pass, and the valley of the Liza. If the tourist should only have an hour or two to spare for Buttermere, he cannot employ them better than in as- cending Buttermere How, the moun- tain on the 1. in the direction of Ho- nister Crag. The views, considering the moderate height, are very striking. Buttermere Lake contains char and trout, and the angling is considered good. Hassness (F. Reed, Esq.), a pretty seat on the E. shore of the lake, is embowered in woods. [A pedestrian can reach Wast- water (Rte. 7) from Buttermere by the mountain passes of Scarf Gap and Black Sail in about 3 hours, and Ennerdale by Scale Force and Floutern Tarn, in rather less. There is scarcely any track over the Fells to Ennerdale, and the ground is boggy, conse- quently this walk should only be attempted in dry weather. Distance from Buttermere to the inn at the W. end of Ennerdale Lake, 10 m. The Scarf Gap Pass (the names, compounded of two Scandinavian 70 Boute 6 . — Scarf Gap and Blach Sail Passes. words, signifying an opening cut among the rocks). The track is well defined, and presents but little difficulty. In proceeding up the valley in the direction of Honister Crag, the mountain nearly in front, a little to the rt., is High Crag; the pass crosses the lowest part of a depression a little to the 1. of its summit. From the top of the pass you look down into Ennerdale, the river Liza flowing through it. Great Gable, Pillar, Steeple, and Kirkfell are the most conspicuous mountains from this point. The track is well marked down the slope of the pass to the bank of the Liza, whence a rough cart-road by the side of the stream leads through Gillerthwaite to the lake and to the “ Angler’s Inn ” at its foot. The Blach Sail Pass leads from Ennerdale to Wastdale Head. The river Liza is first crossed at what- ever place may be practicable, for there is no bridge. The bridle- road of the Black Sail Pass will be visible to the rt. From the summit the road descends abruptly into Mosedale, a depression between Kirkfell and Yewbarrow, and form- ing one of the branches of Wastdale. These 2 passes must be traversed in order to appreciate some of the finest and most impressive scenery of Cumberland. The upper part of Ennerdale, with its magnificent mountain-groups, equals any com- bination of the kind in the district, and the descent of the Black Sail Pass into Mosedale presents fea- tures of great sublimity. These roads can only be taken by pedes- trians, and the very limited accommo- dation of the small inns at Enner- dale and Wastdale Head renders it uncertain whether a tourist would find shelter at either place, failing which he would have to proceed from Ennerdale to the rly. stat. at Frizington, 6 m., and thence to Egre- mont or Whitehaven, or from Wast- dale Head to Strands, 4 m.] 3. Route from Keswick , by Borrow - dale and Honister Crag , to Butter- mere. — This route is practicable for light cars, but it is usual to walk over some of the steepest and roughest parts of the road. From Kosth waite (p. 61) to Buttermere is 6 m. After leaving Seatoller, the road winds up the exceedingly steep and rugged pass called Buttermere Hause. The once celebrated blacklead (graphite) mine lies to the 1., between this road and Seathwaite. After having been for a long period a source of great wealth it has been finally abandoned. An adit was in 1863 driven into the mountain at a lower level than on any former working, but without any satisfactory result. The ori- ginal deposit occurred in a grey felspar porphyry, and was not found in continuous veins, but in “ sops” or “ bellies,” the connexion between which could be traced with difficulty. The wad was extracted from the mine in pieces of irregular shape and of various sizes ; it was then assorted according to its different degrees of purity. The mineral was so valuable that special laws were enacted for its protection, and an act of parliament made it felony to enter the mine and take away any of the wad. One of the largest “sops” produced 500 casks, weighing 1J cwt. each, and worth 30s. per lb. The price after- wards rose to 45s. per lb. Pure graphite is an intermediate substance between charcoal and the diamond, and when burnt leaves a small residuum of iron. The road reaches its highest point (1100 ft.) between Yew Crag on the rt. and Honister Crag on the 1. This grand mass rises almost perpen- dicularly from its base to the height of 2128 ft. above the level of the sea: its sides are scarped and fur- rowed by slate-quarries, and its base 71 Route 6 . — Honister Crag Quarries . is covered with long accumulated debris. The pass was often the scene of encounters in the Border wars, Borrowdale with its flocks and herds presenting a strong temp- tation to the Scotch marauders. The quarries of Honister Crag pro- duce some of the finest roofing-slate in the kingdom, but the steepness of the precipice makes the labour of working it very perilous, the quarry- men being let down by ropes from the top to enable them to effect a lodgment and commence excavations. The slate was formerly brought down on hurdles on the backs of men, but roads have since been cut on the face of the pre- cipice, admitting of the passage of small sledges. The workmen reside in the quarries, leaving them only on Sundays, and slate-hovels perched upon the ledges of this stupendous cliff give a strange conception of a life passed in so desolate a spot. The slate-quarrier niches himself like a sapper effecting a lodgment in a bastion. He hangs halfway up the mountain, prosecuting his “perilous trade,” and is scarcely perceptible to the eye below ; but the unceasing click of his hammer is distinctly heard. From the summit of this pass, the most magnificent and imposing preci- pice in the Lake district, the road de- scends to Gatesgarth, winding tor- tuously, and closed in on either side by mountains which preserve the direction of the valley almost with the regularity of a wall, their per- pendicular sides being composed of a shaly rock which has strewed the val- ley with its fragments. The stream is without verdure on its banks, which are composed entirely of boulders and loose stones. It is a relief to enter Gatesgarth, a region of comparative cultivation, and the charms of Butter- mere are doubly enhanced by the contrast which they present to the desolation of Honister Crag. \Ennerdale Lake is 10 m, horn Scale Hill, and may be reached by a pedestrian by the mountain path from Scale Force, passing by Floutern Tarn, 6 m., or by a bridle-road branching off to the 1. from Lamp- lugh by High Trees, Fell Dyke, and Crossdale to the margin of the lake, 9 m. The carriage-road is by Lamplugh and Kirkland. Loweswater, 2 m. from Scale Hill, a small lake 1 m. long, ^ m. broad. A stream flows into it from Crum- mock. It lies in a valley formed by Blake Fell and Low Fell with Mel- break. Loweswater differs from all the other lakes in having the loftiest mountain masses at its S. extremity. The lake, viewed from the end of Melbreak, forms, with its cultivated banks, a pleasing picture. The road skirts the lake, but the tourist on reaching the high ground should look back upon a scene of charming pas- toral beauty. Low Fell rises in front of Grassmoor, and in the distance are Wliiteless Pike and Robinson. Curling Knot is a picturesque knoll, with its green surface sprinkled with thorns and hollies. Melbreak, with its conical top, is flanked by High Stile, Red Pike, and Honister Crag. Lamplugh Cross , a small hamlet on the road to Ennerdale, and near which, on an eminence, is an im- perfect druidical circle called Stand- ing Stones; the N. segment, com- posed of 6 large stones, only remains. Blake Fell , a wild, bleak moor on the 1., is supposed to have once been a considerable forest. The road rising gradually from Lowes- water, the views are extensive, em- bracing the Scottish Hills, the Irish Sea, and the Isle of Man. Near Lamplugh Hall is an ancient manor- house, of which only the gateway remains, with the date 1595. There is a mineral spring, once in great 72 Itoute ft. —Ennerdale Lake. repute. The road descends gradu- ally to Ennerdale Lake {Inn : The Angler’s Inn, comfortable, but very limited accommodation). The lake is 2J m. long and J m. broad. Remote from the beaten track of tourists, this beautiful sheet of water has hitherto been less visited than any of the other lakes, but there is an indescribable charm in its isola- tion and in the wild sublimity of the scenery which surrounds it. Its shores are not wooded, but the mountains which encircle them vie in grandeur with any in the district. The character of the lake is stern and solemn. Little cultivation adorns its shores, but the grouping of the mountains at its head is impres- sive. Great Gable, Steeple, Pillar, and Grass moor, form a grand com- bination. The heights on the S. side of the lake are Crag Fell, Revelin, and Iron Crag. The loftiest height on the N. side is Herdhouse. A good view of the lake is obtained from How Hall, now a farmhouse, a little above it. Ennerdale owes much of its beauty to the irregu- larity of its form. The nearest promontory is Angle Fell, so called from the excellence of the fishing from it. Pillar (2927 ft.) is the most conspicuous of the surround- ing mountains. “ You see yon precipice it wears the shape Of a vast building, made of many crags, And in the midst is one particular rock That rises like a column from the vale, Whence by our shepherds it is called the Pillar.” — Wordsworth. Pillar is the steepest mountain in the Lake district ; its summit, i. e. the Pillar Rock, was long considered in- accessible, but it was scaled, it is believed for the first time, in 1826, and there are not more than 8 or 9 names in the bottle at the top. About 1 m. from the inn the lake narrows, with steep and abrupt cliffs. In the centre of the lake, between Angle Fell and the opposite pro- montory, is what appears to be a rock a little above the surface of the water, but it is a heap of water-worn stones. There is no tradition of any islet having been artificially formed here, the pile of stones is therefore probably part of an ancient moraine. It is 12 yards long and from 3 to 4 wide, the water on two of its sides is deep, but a shoal extends across the lake from the other. Ennerdale is a deep lake, and abounds with trout and char. The trout-fishing is excellent. “ I have heard of an angler who, at a favour- able time and season, has killed here in one day, with his single rod, four- teen dozen, many a pound weight. Trout of six pounds are occa- sionally taken with the troll, and of eight pounds with the net.” — • Davy's ‘ Angler in the Lake Dis- trict.’ Char are also taken. In a narrow arm of the lake into which the river Liza flows is a “ char dub,” a shallow inlet with a sandy bot- tom ; the fish enter this pool in such numbers in the spawning season that the water is said to be literally darkened by them. The valley of the Liza should be ascended for 1 or 2 m. beyond Gil- lerthwaite, where Pillar and the grand group of mountains at the head of the vale are seen to great ad- vantage. Wast water may be reached by a pedestrian from Ennerdale by the Black Sail Pass. The valley of the Liza must be ascended for about 4 m., when the stream should be crossed and a direction taken to the rt. (see p. 70) ; or a more circuitous route may be taken over Cold Fell from Ennerdale Bridge ; but it is dreary and uninterest- ing. It is better to take the rly. from Frizington to Whitehaven, and thence to Drigg, the nearest station ’Route 7 . — Lancaster to Carlisle . 73 to Wast water on the Whitehaven and Furness Ely. ; or, if time will admit of it, to return to Egremont after seeing Whitehaven and St. Bees Head, and take the carriage route by Calder Bridge and Gos- forth to Netherwastdale (Strands 1 m. from Wast water, Rte. 9). The scenery, after passing Gosforth, is particularly fine, and the interesting ruin of Calder Abbey may be visited on the way. Ennerdale Bridge , 2 m. from the Lake. Its churchyard is the scene of Wordsworth’s poem ‘ The Brothers.’ The hamlet consists only of a few houses. In the turret of the ch. are two bells, one of which bears upon its rim the inscription, “ Sancta Bega ora pro nobis.” The chapelry for- merly belonged to St. Bees, and Ennerdale Forest was a part of the endowment of the abbey. The Friz- ington Stat. of the Egremont and Whitehaven Ely. is 6 m. from Enner- dale Lake. Trains 3 times a day to Egremont and Whitehaven. The line passes through the rich iron dis- trict of Cleator.] [ Westm. & Curribi] ROUTE 7. LANCASTER TO CARLISLE, BY TEBAY, SHAP, AND PENRITH— BAIL. For Lancaster to Oxenholme see Ete. 3. At Oxenholme the branch line to Windermere commences. The main line to Penrith and Carlisle, shortly after leaving Oxenholme, passes on the rt. Benson Knot, a pic- turesque wooded hill, but of no great elevation. 27 J m. Low Gill Stat. The em- bankment is 95 ft. above the level of the ravine. The river is di- verted into a tunnel in the rock. Beyond are several rock cuttings. The line winds for 20 miles, ascend- ing along terraces among the hills. It crosses the Borrow-water near its junction with the Lune, by a viaduct of 3 arches, 68 ft. high. At Borrow - bridge begins a gradient of 1 in 75. The Lune embankment stands in the old bed of the river, there diverted into an artificial channel. At Castle- field is a Roman station, a square inclosure 360 ft. by 300 ft., standing about 20 yards from the line. It once commanded this mountain-pass. There are remains of the E., N., and W. walls, and 2 ditches may be traced on the W. The scenery here is very striking. Passing in a deep cutting by Crosby and Ravensworth Fells, the line lies for above II m. in the lands of the Earl of Lonsdale. An obelisk at Black Dub records that Charles II. (1651) here halted on his march to Scotland, and refreshed his army. E 74 Boute 7 . — Shap Abbey and Wells. 35 m. Tebay Stat., the junction of the South Durham and Lancashire Union Elys. The rly. follows the course of the Lune, which presents many pleasing scenes. The line is carried along the side of the hills, and crosses the Borrowwater near its junction with the Lune by a via- duct of 3 arches 68 ft. high. 42§ m. Shap Stat. Shap sum- mit is 888 ft. above the level of the line at Morecamb Bay. The rock is here cut down to a depth of 60 ft., a work which employed 500 men during many months, and in which more than 23 tons of powder were spent in blasting. This cutting is about 1 m. in length. The railway runs on the E. side of Shap Fell, a district remarkable for its prevailing wind. “ The helm wind blows on the W. side of the range of hills extending from Brompton in Cumberland to Brough in Westmor- land. It rushes down the W. side of the mountains, and extends for 2 or 3 m. over the plain at their base. It is not confined to any particular season, but is distinguished from other tempests by a belt of clouds resting in front of the centre, 3 or 4 m. W. of the summit, often im- moveable for 24 or 36 hours, attract- ing to itself all the light clouds which approach it. While it re- mains unbroken, and, as far as it extends, the violence of the wind is felt, and is strong enough to over- turn horses and carriages, but is most injurious to the crops of stand- ing grain when ripe. The noise of it may be heard 20 m. off, like thunder, or the roar of a cataract. The helm wind is unaccompanied by rain. A mile beyond the shadow of the helm bar, and the air is nearly calm, or the breeze slight. When once the bar begins to break in any one part the clouds through the whole line are speedily dis- persed . 5 ' — Royal Trans Jan, 1837. Shap Abbey , consists of a ruined tower and a few fragments of the conventual wall. The abbey was founded a.d. 1119, at Preston near Kendal, but was removed 40 years afterwards to Shap for greater seclu- sion. The ch. was originally a large one, as may be inferred from the proportions of the W. tower. “ Shap Abbey, 55 Dugdale says in his ‘Mo- nasticon, 5 “was a spacious edifice, built of free-stone, so exceedingly durable as to preserve the marks of the chisel to the present day. Its tower and some portions of its chancel wall remain, specimens of excellent masonry; and the ground to the S. of it, for a considerable distance, is covered with the foundations of its cloisters and offices, many of them vaulted underneath.” Near the abbey the rly. formerly passed through Carl Lofts, an avenue j m. long of Druidical stones of unhewn granite, which terminated in a circle. All traces of this interesting ancient British monument have disappeared, the stones having been split and carried away for gateposts and other purposes. Shap Wells (4 m. from the stat.) is situated in the midst of a wilder- ness of heath and rocks. The hotel was erected by the Earl of Lons- dale, for the use of persons desirous of drinking the waters of the Spa. Certainly nothing but sanitary ob- jects could induce a sojourn in so dreary a spot. The waters are both saline and sulphurous ; the latter resemble those of Harrowgate, but are milder. Upon the highest part of Orton Scar, on the rt., are the remains of a beacon tower, which communicated with the Penrith Beacon ; and behind the Scar opposite to Kaisebeck are the ruins of a place called Castle Fold, an enclosure made for the pro- tection of cattle in the Border wars. The area walled in was about an acre. 75 Ptoute 7 . — Clifton — Penrith Shap Fells are a wild and bleak region, the haunt of moor-fowl. This ridge of hills may be regarded as the limb which connects the great central Pennine range of England with the Cumbrian mountains. The Shap hills are composed of a peculiar kind of porphyritic granite, distinguished by long crystals of a reddish felspar. By this and its other peculiarities it is easily recognised in the boulders which have been transported to a distance by glaciers. These blocks are found in the neighbourhood of Kendal, Morecamb Bay (Kte. 1), and on the high table-land of Stain- moor Forest, in the valley of the Tees, as far as Darlington, and even on the Hambledon hills and the chalk downs near Scarborough. They occur not only in the low grounds, but on the tops of hills, which they could have reached only by crossing valleys now many hundred feet deep. Glaciers therefore must once have filled the gorges of the Shap hills. “ This extensive transference of huge rocks must have occurred at a compa- ratively recent geological period, for many of the transported boulders, although lying exposed on the sur- face of the country, are very little decomposed, and ring under the stroke of the hammer/' — Sedgwiclc. 46J m. Clifton Stat. Between Clif- ton and Penrith the traveller should be on the alert to observe the beauti- ful banks of the Lowther and the Eamont, which the train passes in quick succession within a little more than 1 m. of each other. A portion of Brougham Hall is seen just before the Clifton stat. is reached, and while the viaduct, a beautiful structure of 6 arches, each 60 ft. in span, is being crossed. A castellated old house, Yanwarth Hall, the an- cient seat of Sir Lancelot Threlkeld, is close to the rly. On a moor near Clifton there was a skirmish, in 1745, between the Duke of Cumberland’s troops and the Highland rebels. 50 m. Penrith Stat. (Inns: the George ; the Crown ; both good and reasonable). Pop. 7189. The town is built of red sandstone, and lies under a lofty wooded hill, called the Beacon Hill, which was planted in the begin- ning of the centy.by the Earl of Lons- dale. In the neighbourhood are many objects of interest. The view from the top of Beacon Hill, 937 ft., will well repay an ascent ; it may be reached in about 1 hr. The town derives its name from Petriana, an old Boman station. The market-place is in the centre of the town, and contains a cenotaph, in the Gothic style, erected by the inhabitants, to commemorate the death of a son of Sir George Musgrave, Bart., of Eden Hall, in 1861. Penrith suffered severely several times from the invasions of the Scots, particularly in the 19th year of Ed- ward III., when 26,000 men entered Cumberland, laying waste all before them. They burned the town and several neighbouring villages, and carried into Scotland all the inhabit- ants of whom they could make any use and there publicly sold them to the highest bidders. The Castle stands on a moderate elevation, close to the rly. stat. The remains are not extensive. It is said to have been built in the reign of Edw. IV., in the form of a parallelogram, and was surrounded with a rampart and deep fosse. Kich- ard III., when Duke of Gloucester, resided in it, and by the magnifi- cence of his style of living acquired great popularity in the district. Pen- nant says that 5000 troops marched from Penrith to attend his corona- tion. He is supposed to have added considerably to the castle. It was besieged and taken by the Parlia- mentary forces, and was soon after- wards dismantled. There was an arched subterranean passage leading from the castle to a house in the town called Dockwray Hall, a distance of 307 yards. Such communications E 2 Route 7. — Penrith — Plumpton, 1 6 were not uncommon in old fortresses, and were intended for conveying provisions in times of siege and for escapes. The Church (rebuilt in 1722) is spacious, but without any architec- tural pretensions. Tiie galleries are supported by Ionic columns of a red marble, each pillar consisting of a single stone. The gilt chandeliers were presented by the Duke of Port- land, in acknowledgment of the loyalty of the town in the rebellion of 1745. The tower is the only an- cient portion of the church, and contains a peal of well-toned hells, which ring chimes every three hours. Over the altar are two pictures by a native artist, Mr. Jacob Thompson ; the subjects are ‘ 5 Christ in the Garden of Gethsemane, ,, and “ The Shep- herds keeping watch over their flocks by night.” There are many old brasses and monuments. On a wall in the chancel is an inscription referring to the visitation of the plague in 1598, by which it appears that Penrith lost 2260 of its inha- bitants. The two crosses in the churchyard have long excited the curiosity of antiquaries. According to tradi- tion Sir Hugh Csesarius, a man of great courage and colossal stature, who cleared Inglewood Forest of wild hoars, was buried under one, upon which persons have fancied they discovered the rude delineation of a wild boar ; but the stone is so much injured by time that it is now impossible to make out any defined object. The stones are 11 J ft. in height, and the distance between them is supposed to be the stature of the buried giant. They were un- doubtedly originally crosses, and probably indicated the grave of some person of distinction. The characters are thought to be Runic. There is another ancient monument, which, according to popular tradition, marks the spot where the giant’s thumb was buried. It is evidently part of a smaller rose cross, the top of which has been broken off. The country between Penrith and Carlisle (18 m.) is not very interest- ing. 4£ m. Plumpton Stat. A short dis- tance E. of the Stat., on the military way which led directly to Carlisle, was the Roman station Castlesteads , or Old Penrith. The remains are consi- derable, and are about 200 yds. above the river Petterel. The ramparts and the fosse are both tolerably per- fect, and the 4 gates or entrances are distinguishable. The prseto- rium may also be traced. The sta- tion slopes on the W. towards the river. “ The ramparts are boldly marked, and the interior of the sta- tion is filled up to their level by a mass of prostrate habitations. The largest heap of ruins is at the N.E. quarter. A portion of the E. gate remains. One stone of the threshold yet retains its position; it is much worn by the feet of the ancient tenants of the city, and is circularly chafed by the action of the door in opening and shutting. Several very large stones which have been used in the construction of the S. gateway lie near their original site ; some of them yet exhibit the holes in which the pivots of the doors turned. The line of the street which went from the E. to the W. gateway is discern- ible. In the neighbourhood of the camp, and even at some distance from it, we meet, in the houses and stone fences, .with such a number of small, neatly-cut stones usually employed in the construction of Roman dwellings, as to impress us with the idea that the suburbs of the station were very extensive in every direction.” — Bruce , on the Bo- man Wall. The rly. follows for some distance the course of the river Petterell. 7} m. Calthwaite Stat. Route 7 .—Carlisle* 77 104 m. Southwaite Stat. 13 m. Wreay Stat. 18 m. Carlisle ( Inns : The County Hotel, close to the rly. stat., very good ; Bush ; Crown ; Mitre ; Vic- toria). Pop. 29,400, of which 20,000 are employed in manufactures. Distances . — 10 m. from the Scottish Border, 301 from London, 101 from Glasgow, 93 from Edinburgh, 18 from Penrith. The rly. stat. is spacious and almost metropolitan in its character, and is one of the most important in the N. of England ; 6 trains daily to Glasgow, and 7 for Edinburgh. The approach to this old Border- city, the county-town of Cumberland, is striking ; the massive towers of its old castle and the venerable cathe- dral contrasting strongly with the tall chimneys of an important manu- facturing town. “Merrie Carlisle,” celebrated in many a Border ballad, stands in a good military position at the junction of the Caldew with the Eden, the point of the peninsula being occupied by the castle, behind which is the cathedral. The plan of the city resembles the shape of the letter Y> the castle being on the apex. The 3 principal thoroughfares, English, Scotch, and Castle Streets, diverge from the market-place, on the N. side of which stands the town- hall. The entrance to the city from the S. is between 2 enormous drum towers. These towers are modern, and contain the assize courts for the county, and they were built in imita- tion of two which were erected there by Henry VIII. Historical events have made Carlisle among the most famous of English cities, and it would be difficult to name another around which cluster so many interesting traditions. Seen from a distance, the numerous factories, the tall chim- neys of which pour forth clouds of steam and smoke, and the square buildings, with their numerous windows, show that Carlisle is a manufacturing city ; and that its modern is very different from its ancient state. “ On entering it the contrast between the past and the present is very marked. Its walls and gates have disappeared ; its streets are wide and clean, which no ancient streets in England ever were ; and it has altogether a juvenile, busy, and thriving appearance.” — Mackay. Carlisle was a Roman stat., Lugu- vallum , signifying the tower or stat. by the wall, from its proximity to the wall of Hadrian. The Saxons ab- breviated the name into Luel, and afterwards called it Caer Luel, or the city of Luel. It is supposed to have been the principal residence of that great mythic personage King Arthur. The site was fortified either by the Conqueror, or by his son Rufus, and the works were strengthened by David King of Scotland, who occa- sionally resided in the castle. It was afterwards made a place of great strength and a Border fortress, one of the bulwarks of the N., as Berwick and Newcastle were of the E. of England. It was often sacked, plundered, and exposed to the other miseries of war. It was re- peatedly attacked by the Scots, but, from the 12th centy., without any lasting success; although Scott of Buccleugh (1596) rescued Kinmont Willie, the noted Borderer chief, from its prison. It was the rendezvous of the great army which Edw. I. col- lected for the invasion of Scotland in 1307, and he summoned a Parliament to meet at Carlisle in that year, which was attended by 78 earls and barons, 10 bishops, 61 abbots, and 8 priors, besides other ecclesiastics. The king remained at Carlisle from Jan. until the summer was far advanced, preparing for the Scottish war. In a later age Montrose held it for the king in 1644, and afterwards it endured a long and obstinate siege 78 Route 7 . — Carlisle Cathedral . from the Parliamentary army under Leslie. The inhabs. were at length obliged to eat horses, dogs, and rats, which were eagerly devoured without bread or salt, and hemp-seed became so dear that it could be purchased only by the wealthy. Money was coined from the plate of the inhabs. The diary of a resident during the siege, preserved among the Harleian MSS., states that the “ citizens were so shrunk from starvation, that they could not choose but laugh at one another, to see their clothes hang upon them as upon men on gibbets.” The city was defended by Sir Thomas Glenham, and surrendered on the 25th June, 1645, after having held out for more than 8 months. In 1745, just 100 years later, it was surrendered to the Pretender Prince Charles without a struggle ; but the city was at the time garrisoned only by 2 companies of invalids and a small body of militia. Prince Charles entered Carlisle on the 18th Nov., preceded by 100 pipers, and mounted on a milk-white horse. A few weeks afterwards it was retaken by the Duke of Cumberland. Gal- lows Hill, at a little distance from the city, was the place of execution of the Scotch rebels. The remains of the gibbets were to be seen until the end of the last centy. Many of the rebels were beheaded, and their heads fixed on the city gates, where they re- mained for years. Extensive remains of the ancient city lie buried beneath modern Car- lisle. Seldom is the ground pene- trated to any depth without the dis- covery of ancient mansions, Samian ware, and Roman coins. In Le- land’s time traces of the ancient city were very visible. “In digging,” he says, “ to make new buildings in the towne, oftentymes hath bene and now is found diverse foundations of the old cite, as pavements of stretes, old arches of dores, coynes, stones squared, painted pottes, money hid in pottes. The hole site of the towne is sore changed, for the places where the great stretes and edifices were are vacant and garden plottes.” The Cathedral is a mutilated build- ing consisting only of a choir and transepts, and is surmounted with a stunted tower. If not possessing a place in the foremost rank of Eng- lish cathedrals, it has many archi- tectural beauties, and is the most interesting object in the city. St. Cuthbert is said to have founded (a.d. 686) a convent and school and an abbey for nuns ; but from Bede’s Life of the saint it appears that there was a monastery at Carlisle before the time of the saint, to which Queen Ermenburga retired ; but all these ec- clesiastical buildings, with those of the neighbouring country, having been laid waste in the Danish wars, the abbey was rebuilt by William Rufus, who erected Carlisle into an epis- copal see, and made the parish ch. a cathedral. Henry YIII. by charter established and incorporated a dean and chapter in place of the priory, endowing them with 14 manors, and property in 126 different places, all once forming part of the possessions of the priory. The greater por- tion of the nave, together with the cloisters, were destroyed by the early Reformers, who pulled them down, it is supposed, together with the con- ventual buildings attached. The nave is now reduced to 2 arches, supported by very massive pillars, 14 ft. high, and 17 in. girth; the style is E. Norm., and it was built of whiter and more durable stone than the other portions of the edifice. It is now separated by a wall from the choir, and has been converted into a parochial ch. The columns supporting the tower and the transept are of the same age and style as the nave. There is a well within one of the old Norm, columns, the next to St. Catherine’s Chapel, which is separated from the S. aisle by a very rich Dec. screen. This chapel is now used as the choristers’ Route 7 .— Carlisle Cathedral . 79 robing-room, and contains 3 decayed almories or closets, one of which is very old, probably Norm., represent- ing the compartments of a building with tiled roof and pedimented win- dows. Among the curiosities of the cath. are a pair of tusks, fastened by a rivet to a portion of the skull of some animal, upon which is engraved an inscription, apparently of a remote period. This relic has been pre- served as the supposed charter-horn given by Henry I. to the Prior of the House, when he enfeoffed it with “the lands aparted or broken up for cultivation within the forest of Englewood, to be held £ per quod- dam cornu ebumeum.’” The cere- mony of investiture by a horn is very ancient, and was in use before written charters were introduced. The celebrated Pusey horn in Berk- shire was the symbol by which King Canute gave lands to the family of that name, and the Abbey of York was enfeoffed of its lands and revenues by Ulf, a Danish prince, drinking wine out of a horn before the high- altar. Two very richly embroidered but tattered copes are shown, one of crimson velvet worked with gold, the other of embroidered silk with 8 figures of saints in needlework, very curious. They were probably the ecclesiastical vestments worn by the last prior. The present Choir was begun in the reign of Edw. I., after a fire which had consumed nearly the whole of the original building E. of the tower, but was not com- pleted until 1400. The roof is supported by elegant clustered co- lumns, and pointed arches set off with chevron ornaments between the deep mouldings, in the E. Eng. style. The sculptured foliage of the capitals is finely executed. The very ela- borate carving of the stalls, with their pinnacles, &c., of black oak, will well repay a minute examination. The portion of screen-work behind the modern pulpit is good, with medallion heads inserted in the panels, but of later date (1530), and semi-Gothic in style, erected by Prior Lancelot Sal- keld. The rest of the woodwork, including the bishop’s throne, is modern (1764). On the panels at the back of the stalls are some old and very rude paintings, representing the legend of St. Cuthbert, with figures of the 12 Apostles, and the story of St. Antony and St. Austin. In the N. aisle, be- neath a plain slab, is buried Arch- deacon Paley, whose 4 Horse Paulinse * and ‘ Evidences of Christianity ’ were written in one of the prebendal houses. On the wall, under the great E. window, is a plain monument to his memory. Near his grave are 2 niches in the wall, surrounded by singular mouldings, resembling lopped branches of trees. The cathedral has undergone fre- quent renovations, and 20 years ago it was in a very dilapidated state, the exterior being much impaired by time. In 1846 the outside of the clerestory on the N. was entirely restored; but in 1853 the work of restoration was commenced in ear- nest, and it was carried on at the cost of 15,000Z. Both internally and externally the edifice underwent a general renovation; and, but for these extensive repairs, must be- fore long have become a crumbling ruin. The doorway of the S. tran- sept is new, and is an admirable specimen of modern decorative sculp- ture. The capitals of the light shafts are richly ornamented with foliage and fruit, deeply cut ; and the mouldings are elegantly embellished. Above the arch is a handsome circu- lar window of 7 quatrefoil lights. The remains of the nave and the S. transept are almost the only portions of the original edifice left. The great E. window, 50 ft. high and 30 ft. wide, is perhaps the finest in the kingdom ; it is in the Dec. style. “ Its elegance of composition, 80 Boute 8 . — ■ Carlisle Cathedral and Castle . delicacy of arrangement, and easy flow of lines rank it higher than even the celebrated W. window of York, which it also exceeds in the number of divisions, having 9 lights.” — Rich- man . Even the small spandrils, formed by the different ornaments, are pierced, which gives the window a great lightness of effect. The lower portion is said to be of the time of Edw. I., and the upper part of Edw. III. The stained glass in the higher compartments is ancient ; in the lower it is modem. The ceiling of the choir is divided into square panels, the carved bosses at the intersections being emblazoned with the Royal arms, and those of the families by whose munificence it was completed. In each panel are groups of stars in gold on an azure ground. Round the cornices are figures finely carved and deco- rated, and scriptural texts in the old English character form a band round the upper part. The whole was de- signed by, and executed under the direction of, Mr. Owen Jones. The window in the N. transept was subscribed for by the inhabit- ants, as a tribute of sympathy to Dr. Tait, then Dean of Carlisle, now Arch- bishop of Canterbury, who lost 5 of his children within a few weeks from scarlet fever, while residing at the Deaneiy. The window consists of 6 perpendicular lights, divided into 12 compartments. In the centre light Christ is represented as blessing little children, and the side lights show the parents bringing them to be blessed. In the middle of the great wheel of the tracery Christ is depicted with open arms, and saying, ‘ ‘ Suffer the little children to come unto me, and forbid them not.” The window to the 1. is to the memory of Chancellor Fletcher. A very interesting Runic inscription was discovered in the wall of the S. transept, during the process of the restoration of the cathedral. It is scratched with a tool upon a stone about 3 feet above the pavement, and had been covered over with plaster and whitewash. Around it are several marks made by the tools of the masons. The words of the in- scription, as translated, are, — “ Tolfin, in sorrow, raised this stone for the soul of his son,” proving the work which Rufus undertook to have been commenced by Scandinavian build- ers, and the probability that, at the time of Rufus’s visit to Carlisle, this part of the country was in the pos- session of the Danes or Northmen, and that, having become Christian- ised and civilised, they had already begun to repair the ravages made by their heathen predecessors. — Fer- guson’s Northmen of Cumberland. Robert Bruce was excommunicated in the ch., with bells rung back- wards, as a usurper of the throne of Scotland, by the Papal Legate, in the presence of Edward I. and his Parlia- ment. To the S. of the cathedral is the fratery or refectory, now used as a library and chapter-house. It is in the Perp. style of the 15th centy. There is a tradition that Edward I. held a Parliament in this building. The crypt is curious, and contains some Roman antiquities. The abbey gateway was built by Prior Slee (1528). The two oldest tombs in the ch. are those of Bishop Wilton, 1362, and Bp. Appleby, 1419. There is a marble monument to Bp. Law, 1787, by Banks, and a cross over Bp. Bell, 1596. The deanery contains a beautiful flat oak ceiling, elaborately carved and richly painted with coats of arms, scrolls, &c. Trinity Ch ., in Caldew Gate, and Christ Ch ., in Botcher Gate, are mo- dern erections in good taste, and were designed by Rickman. The Castle , to the N. of the town, overlooking the river Eden, is an old moated fortress, and was a strong- hold of the first importance in the Scottish and civil wars; a small Route 7 . — Carlisle Castle. 81 garrison was kept in it up to the | year 1864, but it has been finally [ abandoned as a military station. The j massive keep is the most interesting j portion of the building. Over the gateway are the sculptured arms of Richard III., who in the reign of Edw. IV. was Governor of the Castle. Some years ago, during the progress of some alterations in the tower, the bodies of a woman and child were dis- covered in such a position that it was evident they had been built up in the wall. The castle was for two months the prison of Mary Queen of Scots ; the tower, in which she was confined, was pulled down in 1835. After the rebellion of 1745, between 300 and 400 Scotch prisoners were lodged in the keep and dungeons. The sergeant, whose duty it was to show the castle, pointed out to Sir Walter Scott the identical cell in which “ Fergus MTvor ” was confined previously to his trial ! Macdonald of Keppoch, the prototype of Mclvor, was imprisoned within the keep, and the walls of the apartment he occu- pied are covered with fanciful figures and devices, well executed, and said to have been scratched with a nail, to beguile the tedium of confinement. In a side wall is a Roman well of great depth. The Roman wall passed close to Carlisle. The remains are now very slight, but a small portion may still be seen near Stanwix. Stanwix , a suburb of Carlisle, is connected with it by a fine bridge spanning the Eden. The ch. and ch.- yard occupy the site of a Roman sta- tion which guarded the N. bank of the Eden. Distinct remains of ancient edifices have been discovered here. In pulling down the old ch., previous to the erection of the present, a very fine statue of Victory, although some- what mutilated, was found ; it is now in the Museum of Newcastle. The name of the place indicates that, while the dwellings in the vicinity were constructed of clay, Stanwix could boast of being a town of stone. The situation is beautiful. To the E. the “ Nine Nicks ” of Thirl wall ; to the S. are the beautiful grounds of Riekerby House; the river Eden is seen flowing through a well-culti- vated country ; and the city of Carlisle, with its cathedral and castle, and the Cumbrian mountains in the distance, complete a very striking panorama. The ancient walls of Carlisle were in the form of an irregular triangle ; the W. wall above the river Caldew is now the only remaining portion. It extends for a considerable length, and is 20 feet high on the outer side. The Caledonian Railway passes within a few yards of this wall, which is contiguous to the W. front of the Deanery. This side of the wall is said to have been 3000 feet long. Beyond it is a large space covered with houses and manufactories, prov- ing how comparatively small was the area of the ancient city. The walls were encircled by a moat, and were so broad that 3 men could walk abreast upon the parapet. Three gates, called the English, Irish, and Scotch, protected the entrances to the city, and flights of steps led up to the walls, which were frequently garnished with the heads of rebels. It is said that a Highland regiment, after the rebellion of 1745, refused to enter the city by the Scotch gate, on which the mouldering heads of many of their countrymen were still conspicuous, and they were marched round to the opposite side of the city, that they might pass in by the English gate. The principal manufactures are of cotton, ginghams and cheques. The river Caldew supplies some of the motive power. There are also some extensive dyeing-works. The city has a reputation for the manufacture of whips and hats. There is a plea- sant walk on the N. bank of the Eden along the red cliff, called Etterby Scar, about 1 m. below the bridge, E 3 82 Route 8 . — Penrith to Whitehaven . commanding a charming view of the river, city, &c. In the principal street are 2 well-executed statues in freestone, one of William Earl of Lonsdale, the other of James Steele, Esq., Mayor of Carlisle. ROUTE 8. PENRITH TO WHITEHAVEN, BY KES- WICK, COCKERMOUTH, AND WORK- INGTON— KAIL. A single line. Trains 4 times daily, in 50 minutes, to Keswick, 18 m. ; and 1 h. 25 min. to Cocker- mouth. The line on leaving Penrith makes a sweep to the N.E. 3J m. Blencow Stat. 7J m. Penruddock Stat. [2 m. N. is Grey stoke Castle (Henry Howard, Esq.), situated on an eminence at the S. extremity of a noble park of 5000 acres. The castle is modem, little remaining of the old fortress, which was built about the middle of the 14th centy., when Walter de Greystock obtained the King’s permission, in 1353, to castel- late his mansion-house of Greystoke. I n the civil war it was garrisoned for the King, and besieged and taken by a division of Lambert’s army, and burnt to the ground. The restorer the castle was the Hon. Charles Howard, great-grandfather of Charles 1 1th Duke of Norfolk, who is said to have planted annually 20,000 trees in the park. Prom the time of Henry I. to Henry VII. the place belonged to the Greystock family, when the male line became extinct, and it descended to Elizabeth, daugh- ter of the last Lord Greystock, who married Lord Dacre of Gilsland. It came into the Norfolk family on the Earl of Arundel marrying one of the co-heiresses of Lord Dacre. The house is built of freestone, obtained from quarries on the estate. The W. front has a fine terrace, 560 ft. in length and 25 ft in. width, and is shaded by limes and syca- mores. Two fine sheets of water ornament the park. The interior of the castle is not shown, except in the absence of the family. It contained a valuable collection of pictures of great historical interest, but a great many were destroyed by the calamit- ous fire which broke out in the castle on the night of the 4th of May, 1868. Among those rescued from the flames is a scene in Venice, by Canaletto, some fine landscapes by Wilson, and a few pictures by Hoffland. Among the curiosities is a picture on silk embroidery, representing the Cruci- fixion, said to be the work of Mary Queen of Scots, and a hat, said to have belonged to Thomas a Beckett. The Cli., dedicated to St. Andrew, contains a nave, choir, and 2 aisles, and is said to be the best specimen of the Perp. style in the county. The E. window is of rich stained glass ; the subjects relate to the life of St. Andrew. The tower has a circular staircase. In a pane of one of the N. windows is a representation of a red devil, said to be unique. Near the altar is a fine alabaster tomb, under a rich Gothic canopy, of two of the Barons of Greystock, Route 8, —Grey stoke. supposed to be Ralph de Greystock and his son. The monument is of the age of Edward II. or III. 3 m.from Greystoke are the remains of the Castle of Dacre , long since converted into a farmhouse. In a wall of the kitchen, once the chapel, is a piscina, with an ornamented trefoiled arch. The castle was built in 925, and was the seat of the ancient family of D’Acre, which name they are said to have acquired from their bravery in the siege of Acre, under Richard I. ; but it is a doubtful tradition, the place having been known by its present name in the time of Athelstane, in whose reign a congress was held here. Like other families in the district, the Dacres probably took their name from the place. In the centre, be- tween the towers, is an escutcheon, which bears the date of that part of the building. William of Malms- bury mentions a congress held at Dacre in the year 934, when Con- stantine, King of Scotland, and his son Eugenius, King of Cumberland, met King Athelstan, and did homage to him. There is a room called the room of the Three Kings. After the Conquest the manor was held by the Barons of Greystock by mili- tary tenure. The Dacres were men of spirit and gallantry. Matilda, the great heiress of Gilsland, was carried off by Lord Dacre, in the night, from Warwick Castle, while she was a ward of Edward III. and under the guardianship of Thomas de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. Thomas Lord Dacre followed the example of his ancestor 170 years afterwards, by carrying off, also in the night, from Brougham Castle, Elizabeth of Greystock, the heiress of his superior lord, who was also the King’s ward, and at the time in the custody of Henry Clifford, Earl of Northumberland, who probably intended to marry her himself. The Ch ., dedicated to St. Andrew, 83 contains the monument of a Knight Templar. In the N. aisle is a mural monument to the memory of Sir Edward Hasell, Knt., and a marble , monument, by Chantrey, to Edward Hasell, Esq. The first Lord Ellen- borough received the rudiments of his education at Dacre endowed school. Over the door of the old schoolhouse was the inscription — “ Ye young rejoice at this foundation Being laid for your edification ! ” In the ch.-yd. are 4 curious but much defaced monuments, commemo- rative, it is supposed, of the achieve- ments of the Dacre family. 1 m. to the N. of Greystoke is Castle Sowerby. In this parish is a hill, called Castle Hill , the top of which was some years ago cut into, and a chamber, 18 yards in diameter, discovered, which probably formed a hiding-place from Scotch ma- rauders. There are several estates in the parish called Bed Spears, the owners of which held them by the singular service of riding through the town of Penrith on Whit-Tues- day, brandishing spears. The order of the Red Knights, Bracton says, “ Debent equitare cum domino suo de manerio in manerium, vel cum domini uxore .” In times of peace they performed this ancient service, to challenge, it is presumed, any who might dispute their lord’s title. The “ red spears ” were the sureties to the sheriff for the peaceful be- haviour of the inhabitants. In the adjoining manor of Daelmain the tenants were obliged under the pen- alty of forfeiture to give notice of an enemy’s approach by sounding a horn, and to serve in the border wars, marching in the van on the advance, and in the rear on the re- turn. Bowscale Tarn is 3 m. from Castle Sowerby. The walk to it is one of wild and varied beauty, through a 84 "Route 8 . — Keswick — Cockermoutli . mountain valley, shut in by lofty hills. The tarn is about 1 m. in circumference, and is noted for the singular superstition of the two im- mortal fish referred to in the song at the Feast of Brougham Castle, on the return of the Shepherd Lord (p. 65). Carrock Fell, which rises above Bowscale Tarn, is covered for nearly a mile with smooth water-worn stones, varying in size from pebbles to boulders weighing 300 tons, com- posed of porphyry. On the summit is an imperfectly-defined circle of stones, probably Druidical. An excursion as far as Caldbeck, at the foot of Brocklebank Fell, would take the tourist through some of the wildest scenery in Cumber- land. The village of Caldbeck is in a mountain vale, and a stream, which often becomes a foaming tor- rent, divides it into two parts, which are connected by wooden bridges. Near the village is the picturesque cascade of the Howk , which falls into a narrow glen fringed with furs. Following the path leading to the waterfall, you come to a cave called the Fairies’ Kirk ; beyond which is a singular natural excavation, called the Fairies Kettle , into which the water rushes through a hole in the rock, and appears as if it were in a state of ebullition. The banks of the Caldew, from Caldbeck to Sebergham, are noted for their beauty ; and the river affords excellent sport for the angler.] 9J m. Troutbeck Stat., 9 m. from Ulls water. A coach to Patterdale daily in summer. The huge mass of Saddleback now forms a grand and striking feature as the rly. de- scends the valley of the Glendara- malrin, which below Threlkeld Stat. is joined by the St. John’s Beck and becomes the Greta, a very pictur- esque stream, which is crossed by the rly. on 8 or 9 bridges. 14J m. Threlkeld Stat., a village at the foot of Saddleback, and at the head of St. John’s Yale. 18 m. Keswick Stat., which, with the adjoining Keswick Hotel, stands on a hill at the foot of Latrigg and Skiddaw, about 1 m. from Derwent- water Lake, but out of sight of it. [For description of Keswick and its environs, see Kte. 5, p. 54.] The rly. passes on the 1. Southey’s residence, Greta Hall, and Crossthwaite Ch., where he was buried ; it is then carried by embankments over the low ground which divides Derwent- water from Bassenthwaite Lake, and which is often so much flooded in winter that the two lakes become one. It crosses the Derwent and Newland’s Beck, then skirts the shore of Bassenthwaite; Skiddaw on the rt. is a grand feature in the scenery. [For description of Bassenthwaite Lake, see Rte. 5, p. 63.] 30 1 m. Cockermouth Stat. (Inns: George; Sun). Pop. 7057. The town is beautifully situated on the 1. bank of the Derwent, and at the con- fluence of that river with the Cocker. It is an ancient borough, returns one member to Parliament, and con- sists principally of a single wide street. There are a cotton-mill or two and some other inconsiderable manufac- tories. It was the birthplace of the poet Wordsworth. In the principal street, proceeding from the rly. stat., is an old mansion on the 1. recessed from the street. In this the poet was born 7th of April, 1770. The house has been very little altered since. The Castle (Lord Leconfield) was once a place of considerable strength, and was built, Camden says, on an artificial mound, which is question- able. The remains are extensive, but the only tolerably perfect part is the gateway, which is more modern than the walls. A portion of the castle was converted into a modern JRoute 8,—Cockermouth . 85 residence by General Sir Henry Wyndham. The founder of the castle- was Waldeof, first Lord of Allerdale, in the reign of William the Conqueror. The gateway bears the arms of Umfraville, Lucy, Neville, Multon, and Percy, its owners at different times. Between the outer and inner courts are vaulted dungeons, which could be entered only by openings at the top, through which the prisoners were let down. There are some remains of the hall and chapel. The oldest portion is the keep, under which is a vault, 30 ft. square, entered by a descent of 12 steps, and lighted by a small grated win- dow. The vault has groined and intersected arches, and is supported by an octagonal pillar in the centre, and by pilasters at the corners and sides. This underground chamber was probably used as a place of safety when the fortress was attacked. The style is Early Norm. In re- moving the rubbish, which had accumulated in the inner court, the plan of the original structure was exposed, and it showed that along the whole front had run a piazza, which formed a handsome approach to the state-apartments. This piazza followed the line of the cliff or bank of the river, and was lighted by 6 large windows ; 3 of these bear traces of elaborate workmanship. In 1618 the castle was besieged by the Parliamentary forces, taken, burned, and reduced to the condi- tion in which, with the exception of the modern additions, it now is. The Church is modern in the E. Eng. style, and was built on the site of the old parish ch., which was destroyed by fire in 1851. The pillars are alternately octagonal and round, with foliated capitals. The E. window is a memorial to Words- worth, subscribed for by the inhabit- ants of his native town. The font is richly sculptured. The hills on the rt. bank of the Derwent consist almost entirely of a calcareous stone, composed of shells. Papcastle , formerly a Koman stat., the fosse of which may still be traced a little above the village, in the grounds of Mr. Wybergh. Coins of the Emperors Claudian, Adrian, and Geta have been found here. The site was well chosen for a for- tress, being on the S. slope of a hill with a rapid river below. 2 m. N. of Cockermouth is the village of Bridekirh , interesting on account of its ch. and curious ancient font. The village is prettily situated in a well- wooded country. The tower is peculiar, tapering to the summit. There were 2 E. Norm, doorways ; that on theN. side has been walled up, and its arch converted into a window ; the one under the S. porch is elabo- rately sculptured with a curious but almost obliterated imagery. One of the pillars of the doorway is orna- mented, the other plain. The porch is more modern, having a pointed arch. The chancel is divided from the nave by a fine Norm, arch with clustered pillars. The Font , which is placed within the altar-rails, is a very curious specimen of mediaeval work- manship. It is of freestone, and some of the sculpture is singularly well executed, particularly the folds of the drapery of the figures. It is supposed to be at least 1000 years old. On one side, in the upper divi- sion, is a monster with 2 heads, one bent over its body to the ground ; the other erect with a triple flower on one stem protruding from its mouth. The compartment beneath represents John the Baptist immersing the Saviour in a font; round his head there is a nimbus, and above it the defaced figure of a dove. On another face is the rude figure of a centaur defending himself from the attack of some animal ; below is a repre- sentation of the expulsion of Adam 86 j Route 8. — Workington. and Eve from Paradise; Adam is appealing to the pity of the angel, while Eve is clinging to the tree of life. Another side exhibits the Cross with ornamented foliage ; be- low is a shield supported by 2 birds, probably ravens. On one of the lower compartments is an inscription in Bunic characters, which has been translated : — “ Here Ekard was converted, and to this man’s example were the Danes brought.” The correct rendering of the inscrip- tion is, however, still unsettled. All that the learned German Professor Munch has been able to make of it is, that the first portion records the names of the person who wrought and of the person who presented it to the eh., the name being in both cases undecipherable. There is a mixture of Anglo-Saxon and Scan- dinavian names, but the Anglo-Saxon predominate. The sculpture above the inscription consists of grapes, birds, and other emblematical figures. Tickell, the poet and friend of Addison, was born in this village. 36 m. Worldngton Stat. (Inns: Green Dragon; Station Hotel) ; Pop. 6467 ; a seaport on the 1. bank of the river Derwent, 1 m. from the sea, of considerable importance in the coal and iron trades. The harbour is pro- vided with two piers and a break- water. The town is surrounded with collieries and ironworks. The ex- port of coal is chiefly to Ireland. There are 8 furnaces of the W. Cumberland Haematite Company, for smelting the rich ore which abounds in the district. The collieries also employ a large number of hands. The coal-mines, as at Whitehaven, extend for some distance under the sea. The seams are very irregular, being disturbed by numerous faults ; it was near one of these, 14 fathoms under the sea, that the roof of a mine gave way some years ago ; the rush of water was tremendous, and, as the galleries of the mine were 20 m. in length, the pressure of the water pro- duced gusts of wind, the roaring of which was heard at a great distance. The thick coal-measures of Work- ington are thrown out S. of the town by a large fault, upheaving the lower strata, which occupy an extensive plateau stretching from Harrington to the hills N. of Morseby. Another great fault with a downthrow to the S.W. again brings in the productive measures of Whitehaven. Between this fault and the village of Parton the beds dip to the E., so that all the coal-seams below high-water mark crop out under the sea, and the coal cannot be extracted by rea- son of the water which finds its way between the planes of stratifi- cation. In some positions the coal has been followed for more than 1 m. under the sea. “ From Harrington, as far as Flimby, N. of Workington, a large unwrought coalfield is supposed to exist; from Workington to Mary- port, the general dip of the strata is N.W., and the coal crops out inland, where it has been worked from very early times .”- — Hull on the Coal-fields of Great Britain . “ The carboniferous strata of Cum- berland extend along the whole coast from the N. side of St. Bees Head to Maryport, and they are generally associated with, and co- vered by, the new red sandstone. It contains many thin worthless beds of coal ; but there are 8 or 10 in which it has been very profitably worked. Its aggregate thickness is not less than 1000 ft. The whole deposit once consisted of alternations of sand and finely laminated mud, with countless fragments of dried vege- tables, sometimes matted together in thick and widely - extended beds. Occasionally the plants are upright, and so entire that they seem to have been drifted from the spots on which they grew ; in such cases the coal- beds are the indications of forests and bogs, submerged during the Route 9 . — Whitehaven to Wastwater. 87 changes of level between land and water. In course of time the drifted sand-beds became sandstone ; the mud became slaty clay, or shale ; the vegetable deposits were bitumi- nized ; and the whole formation passed into the condition in which we now see it.” — Sedgwick. After the defeat of her army at Langside, Mary Queen of Scots landed at Workington, having crossed Solway Frith in a fishing-boat, with a few attendants, destitute of money and without even a change of raiment. She was hospitably re- ceived at Workington Hall, the family-seat of the Curwens, situated on an eminence E. of the town. The line from Workington to Whitehaven is the Carlisle, Working- ton, and Maryport Ely. 4^ m. Harrington Stat. The port is small, and is used for the ship- ment of the iron ore and coal, the produce of the district. A large quantity of pig-iron is also shipped here. It has a small pier and a shipbuilding yard. 5 m. Parton Stat. About 1 m. to the 1. is Morseby , which produces much coal, and has some fine quarries of limestone. There are near it the remains of a Eoman station, pro- bably a fort for the protection of the coast. The agger is still traceable, and some of the stones of the S. wali remain. Morseby was the station for the Eoman galleys which defended this part of the coast. 1^ m. Whitehaven. [For descrip- tion see Ete. 2, p. 24.] , EOUTE 9. WHITEHAVEN TO WASTWATER, BY EGREMONT, CALDER BRIDGE, AN1> GOSFORTH. Egremont , by rly. 5 m. (Inn : The Globe), a neat market-town on the rt. bank of the Eden, which flows from Ennerdale Lake. Pop. 2500. The remains of the Castle are situated on an eminence close to the town. It was built about the end of the 11th cent, by Will, de Meschines, Earl of Cumberland, to whom William the Conqueror granted the barony of Copeland, lying between the rivers Duddon and Derwent. The principal remains are a square tower entered from the S.W. by a Norm, doorway with a groined arch, and a portion of the wall which probably separated the outer from the inner wards. There is also a gateway with the grooves for the portcullis still visible. This is of a more recent date than the other portions of the castle. A deep moat surrounds the ancient walls, which exhibit a few specimens of the peculiar masonry-work called herring-bone, which is said only to be observed here and in one or two other castles in England. Little is known of the history of this castle beyond its having long been the residence of the lords of the great barony of Copeland. In 1300 one claimed to have a gallows at Egremont, and a field near the castle is still called the Gibbet Holm. In the 15th year of the reign of King John the castle and its demesnes were seized in forfeiture by the king, 88 Route 9 . — Egremont — Colder Bridge . in consequence of the Lady Ada Lucy having married without his consent, but they were restored on the payment of a fine. The legend of the “ Horn of Egre- mont ” is connected with this castle. Sir Eustace de Lucy, Lord of Egre- mont, and his brother Hubert, left Egremont to join the crusade in the Holy Land. Sir Eustace on his de- parture blew the horn which was always suspended over the gateway of the castle, and which could only be sounded by the true lords of Egre- mont, saying to his brother, “ If I fall in Palestine, return and blow this horn and take possession, that Egre- mont may not be without a Lucy for its lord.” When in the Holy Land, Hubert bribed 3 ruffians to throw his brother Sir Eustace into the river Jor- dan. Supposing him dead, .he returned to England and took possession of the castle, not venturing however to blow the horn, but while giving a banquet to the retainers he suddenly heard a blast from the horn, which was suspended at the castle gate, and knowing that his brother, Sir Hubert, alone, as the rightful owner could have sounded it, he started from his seat and fled by the postern- gate. The gate was then opened to Sir Eustace, who resumed his usurped rights. His brother is said to have died in a convent. The legend is the subject of one of Wordsworth’s poems — “ Long and long was he unheard of By his brother; then he came, Made confession, asked forgiveness. Asked it in a brother’s name, And by all the saints in heaven, And of Eustace was forgiven.’’ Calder Bridge , 6 m. ( Inns : Stan- ley Arms ; Golden Fleece). The beautiful remains of the Abbey are in the grounds of Captain Irwin, 1 m. from the village. The best approach is by a charming shrubbery walk on the 1. bank of the river Calder, to which tourists are allowed access, and which leads to the ruin and mansion. The river scenery here is extremely beautiful, the banks being steep and wooded. The walk is entered from a gate in the ch.-yard. The Abbey was founded a.d. 1734, by Kandolph de Meschines, for monks of the Cistercian order, and was an affi- liated house to Furness Abbey, an abbot and 12 monks having been sent from the parent monastery to settle at Calder in the reign of Henry I. The ch. and conventual house were built of red sandstone. Of the W. front of the abbey little remains but the fine Norm, doorway, and a circular arch with plain mouldings. The nave is late Norm. ; of the S. side nothing remains. The N. has 5 pointed arches with flat mouldings springing from piers now gracefully wreathed with ivy and honeysuckle. The ch. had N. and 8. transepts, with a tower at their intersection, a part of which remains. On the 8. of the choir are 4 arched recesses, one of which formed the doorway to a side chapel, the others were appa- rently sedilia. The E. end is en- tirely gone, but there are a few re- mains of cloisters, which show that they were beautiful specimens of E. Eng. In the N. transept are 3 effigies of knights in mail armour, but much mutilated, 2 with shields. The monastery was dissolved a.d. 1536. Calder Abbey, although much smaller and less ornate than Furness, was a very perfect specimen of the ecclesiastical architecture of the age. The four arches springing from the intersection of the nave and transepts are unbroken. Asa site for a monas- tery the spot could scarcely be sur- passed, sheltered as it is by lofty hills, and a fine river flowing within a few yards of the house. Ponsonby Hall, J m. from Calder Bridge, the seat of William Stanley, Esq., was built in 1780. On the park gates are the family arms. The hall is picturesquely situated on an emi- 89 Route 9 . — Gosforth — Wasticater. nence commanding striking views of Caldei Abbey, the mountains, and the sea. It contains some good paintings, including 6 on copper, by Holbein , viz., Henry VIII., Anne Boleyn, Chaucer, Ben Jonson, Lati- mer, and Cranmer; together with portraits of John Stanley, the royalist ; Sir G. Fleming, Bart. (Bp. of Carlisle), by Vanderbanh ; G. E. Stanley, Esq., by Opie, and his lady by Romney, together with numerous other family portraits. Two very curious docu- ments signed by Cromwell and Fair- fax, granting a free pass to John Stanley, are shown ; also a very richly carved oak bedstead, supposed, from the coat of arms on it, to have been made in 1345. It was brought from Dalegarth, in Eskdale, the ancient seat of this branch of the Stanley family. The river Calder flows through the grounds, and walks have been cut through the woody banks, leading down to the river, which is spanned in several places by picturesque rustic bridges. The scenery is enchanting. The sandstone is much worn away by the river, which is in many places overhung by vast ledges of rock, under which the water settles in deep pools, or foams and whirls under pendent branches, which almost touch each other from the opposite banks. It is a place which, once seen, can never be forgotten. The cli., which has been modernised, stands in the park; it is embel- lished with some tolerable stained glass. Gosforth 3 m. (Inn : The Globe), a straggling village, remarkable only for an ancient cross in the ch.-yard, of British or Danish origin, 14 ft. high. The top of the cross is perforated ; the sides are sculptured with the figures of men and animals, the meaning of which has given rise to much archaeological discussion. The figure of a man on horseback bn one side is repeated in an inverted form on the other. The cross probably formed a sepulchral monument, the symbolism of which cannot now be interpreted. There is a fragment of another cross also sculptured, which may have formed a part of the original monument. A slab, which once lay horizontally between the two, was removed some years ago, and converted into a sun-dial. The ch. has an open belfry, with the date 1654, and 3 bells, one of which was brought from a joss-house in China, by the late Admiral Sir H. Senhouse, and is facetiously called the “ dumb- bell ” by the parishioners, from its cracked and uncertain sound. The road from Gosforth to Strands crosses the bridge over the river Bleng, J m., an impetuous mountain-tor- rent, which has strewn its bed with huge boulders, brought down from the neighbouring hills. Scaw- fell is seen to advantage from the high ground above Gosforth, as are the Screes, which dip abruptly into Wast water, and the scenery for the whole distance to Wast water is of a very striking character, the pic- turesque valley of the Irt being on the rt., and the mountains in front gradually rising in grandeur as they are approached. Strands , 3 m., the usual head- quarters for Wast water. (Inns : The Strands Hotel ; The Sun: both small, but with tolerable accommodation. A post-office. Wastw T ater is 1 m. from the village. Conveyances and boats may be hired at either of the inns.) Wastwater , the most remarkable if not the most imposing of the English lakes. Its aspect is solemn, and even oppressively gloomy. It is the deepest of the English lakes (270 feet), is 3 m. long, and rather more than } m. broad. The most conspicuous feature is the re- markable ridge or precipice called the Screes, which forms its S.E, 90 Route 9 . — Wastwater. boundary. The term is probably derived from the Norse screda , signi- fying a fall of stones or snow from a mountain. It has been termed a mountain in decay ; debris, the accu- mulation of ages, cover the sides. In winter masses of rock are con- stantly rolling from the heights into the dark waters below, and the noise of their fall is frequently heard at Strands. The road runs along the N.W. side of the lake for about 3J m. to Wastdale Head. The naked, treeless shores of this remark- able lake give it an aspect of deso- lation paralleled only by some of those dismal sheets of water in the highest regions of the Alps — * “ There gleam no lovely trees of hanging wood, No spot of sunshine lights its sullen side, For Horror shaped the wild in wrathful mood, And o’er the tempest heaved the moun- tain’s pride.*’ — Wilson. Wastwater is seen to the greatest advantage on a gloomy day, and the impression which it is calcu- lated to produce will only be expe- rienced in its full force when the clouds are sullenly gathering on the hilltops, and the lake assumes that aspect of “ grim repose ” which precedes a mountain storm. The first view of it through the woods of Wastdale Hall is impressive. On reaching the banks, the fine conical mountain, Great Gable, rising ap- parently directly from the foot of the lake, is the most striking object. Scawfell, although much higher, does not stand out so boldly, and it is only when the end of the lake is approached that this monarch of English moun- tains can be duly appreciated. On passing, the visitor should look in upon the grounds of Wastdale Hall (John Musgrave, Esq.), permission being readily given at the lodge. Before the lake is reached, notice on the rt. the remarkable ravine of Hawl Ghyll, down which a stream flows, broken into numerous pretty cas- cades. In the summer of 1803, during a heavy thunderstorm, the rush of water from this ghyll was so great, that it brought down large masses of earth and boulders which completely choked the outlet of the lake for two days. In the sides of the ghyll the granite, in consequence of the de- composition of the felspar, has shaped itself into miniature peaks or aiguilles. There is a vein of specular iron, and some haematite, near the top. The principal feeders of Wastwater are Overbeck to the S. of Yewbarrow, and Nether Beck to the N. of Mid- dle Fell, both of which issue from mountain tarns. Near the head of the lake is Kirkfell ; to the 1. Great Gable is conspicuous ; on the rt. is Lingmell, and over it towers Scaw- fell. There is certainly no moun- tain scenery in England or Wales which will bear a comparison with that at the head of Wastwater ; but, to receive the full impression of its grandeur, it should always be approached from Strands. Trout abound in the lake, and there are some char ; but owing to the very low temperature of the water, and its great depth, it is late in the season before the angling commences, nor are the fish early in condition. July is esteemed the best month for sport. Another peculiarity of this lake anglers should be made aware of. It is subject to sudden and violent squalls from the S., a quarter whence they might be least expected, as it would appear to be sheltered in that direction by the Screes. No lake presents so striking a contrast between the scenery of its two ex- tremities as Wastwater. At its foot is an elegant villa residence em- bosomed in ornamental woods ; at its head are vast mountain masses tower- ing in naked grandeur over a tree- less valley* Wastdale Head ( Inns : The Hunts- man Inn, kept by the two Bitsons, the 91 Route 9 . — Wastdale Head — Scawfell. guides of the district. Beds and plain fare are provided). This valley, at the N.E. end of the lake, was once famous for its red deer, but is now enclosed, and contains about 400 acres, divided by stone fences into small fields. A “ states- man ” of Wastdale Head, who lived in the last century, is said to have inherited his property in a course of uninterrupted descent for 700 years. Tourists often take up their abode for a few days at Wastdale Head, attracted by the singular wild- ness and sublimity of the scenery. The chapel is the smallest in Eng- land, and the solitary bell suspended in the open belfry may be often heard in stormy nights mingling its tones with those of the thunder and the wind. The pulpit is lit by a single pane of glass inserted in the roof. Scawfell (3208 ft.), the central mass from which the Cumbrian mountains branch forth in all directions, the different valleys diverging from it, “ like the spokes of a wheel from an axle” (Introd. p. viii.). There are strictly 4 summits to Scawfell : the highest is the Pike ; Scawfell, at the other extremity, and overlooking Burnmoor and Eskdale, is 3161 ft. above the level of the sea ; Great End, the northernmost point, rises above Sty Head, and Lingmell above Wastdale. The 2 principal heights are separated by a deep gorge called Mickledoor ; but, al- though only 1200 yards apart in a direct line, a circuit of 2 m. must be made to go from one to the other. Mickledoor may indeed be crossed, but the passage is difficult, and at one point dangerous, and it should be at- tempted only by experienced crags- men, or members of the Alpine Club. On the Pike is a pile of stones erected by the Ordnance Surveyors, which marks the summit of the mountain. The mass of Scawfell is composed of green slate. The strata have in many places been contorted by an upheaving force, and present pheno- mena very interesting to a geolo- gist. The finest dyke in Cumber- land is at Kirkfell, near Wastdale Head, that mountain having been rent asunder from top to bottom, and a mass of granitic porphyry pro- truded into the fissure. There are also several syenitic dykes which rise from Wastdale Head and cut through the mineralised slates between Great End and Scawfell Pike. The ascent of Scawfell is more trying than that of either Skiddaw or Helvellyn ; it can be accomplished either from Borrowdale, Langdale, or Eskdale, but the least difficult is from Wastdale Head, whence the summit may be reached in about 2 hrs. For a considerable part of the way the track is well defined, skirting at first the side of Lingmell. In fine settled weather a tourist may make the ascent alone ; but the suddenness with which mists make their appearance at great heights, and their utterly bewildering effect upon the inexperienced, make it always prudent to engage a guide. The summit of Scawfell is composed of huge blocks, covered with lichens and moss, the colours of which “ surpass those of flowers, the most brilliant feathers, and even gems.” • — Wordsworth . The view from the Pike combines all that is most grand and beautiful in the Lake district, — Eskdale, Borrowdale, the Yale of Dunnerdale, the Yalley of the Dud- don, Langdale, the mountains below Scawfell, Great Gable, Grassmoor, Pillar, and the other Ennerdale mountains, Helvellyn, Skiddaw, the Scotch, and occasionally the Welsh, mountains, and the sea. A pedes- trian, instead of returning to Wast- dale Head, may descend into Esk- dale by way of Mickledoor, at the bottom of which is a narrow ridge like the roof of a house, which slopes down into Eskdale on one side, and into Wastdale on the other ; but the descent into Eskdale is over terraces of slippery turf, and down 92 Route 9 .— slanting sheets of bare rock, which make the enterprise, even with the assistance of a guide, one of peril. Some have attempted this descent, and turned back in terror at the difficulties before them; but there are places from which a tourist might find it even more difficult to retreat than to advance. If Eskdale should be the tourist’s object, it would be better to descend to Wast- dale Head, and take the path over Burnmoor to Bout. Langdale may be reached from Esk Hause, pass- ing Angle Tarn to the right, and along Green Moor to the Stake Pass path, but a better descent into Langdale would be down the gully or watercourse of Bossett Ghyll. The passes which diverge from Wastdale Head are the Sty Head to Seathwaite in Borrowdale, the track of which winds along the side of Great Gable, one of the most striking and picturesque of the Wastdale mountain group, and pre- senting on one side an inacces- sible precipice. The Hon. Lennox Butler slipped off the side of Great Gable, which looks towards Kirkfell, and which was at the time covered with snow, in the winter of 1861-5. He was descending the ridge which connects Great Gable with Kirkfell, and had stepped on the frozen snow just above a ledge of rocks which runs parallel to the ridge and at a small distance below it. A fall over this ridge either killed him at once, or rendered him insensible. His skull had been fractured apparently on some of the large stones imme- diately at its foot. He had after- wards slipped for a considerable dis- tance over screes concealed by a covering of snow. The Black Sail and Scarf Gap passes lead respec- tively from Wastdale Head to Enner- dale and Buttermere (Kte. 6). The Sty Head Pass to Borrowdale is free from difficulty, the bridle- road being well defined the whole - Scawfell . way. The summit of the pass is 1586 ft. above the level of the sea. Sty Head Tarn lies a little below the highest part of the road to the rt., and Green Gable and Great Gable are conspicuous on the 1. ; the N. base of Scawfell (Great End) is on the rt. The first peep from the top of the pass into Borrowdale is very striking and beautiful. The ascent is steep, but is carried up in zigzags between Great Gable and Lingmell. Perhaps the finest moun- tain excursion in this portion of the lake district is to leave the summit of the Sty Head Pass and scale the Great Gable, proceed thence over Green Gable to the top of Honister Crag, look down upon the slate quarries (p. 71), and descend by the very steep but safe ridge to Gatesgarth and But- termere. Ho grander or more excit- ing mountain scenery than this excur- sion affords is to be found in England. Scawfell can also be ascended from Borrowdale (Rte. 5). After passing Rosthwaite, the road up to the valley must be taken to Sea- thwaite, turning to the 1. at Sea- toller. At Seathwaite the car-road ceases, but a bridle-road continues up the valley and leads to the Sty Head Pass. At Stockley Bridge, 1 m„ the valley divides ; that to the rt. is the Sty Head route, which ascends the hill by a zigzag path. The valley to the 1. is the most direct way for pedestrians to the summit; but the path by Sty Head and Spinkling Tarn, and pass- ing under Great End, is the most interesting. The stream in this valley descends from Allen Crag, a continuation of Glaramara. The line of the ascent is over Esk Hause top, 2188 ft. above the sea, from which the views are of extraordinary beauty. On the one side is Sprink- ling Tarn, with Great Gable tower- ing above it ; and on the other the picturesque mass of Bowfell, with the Langdale Pikes ; Borrowdale 'Route 9 . — Santon Bridge. is se£n below. The continua- tion of the ascent is by the foot of Great End, the N. base of the Scawfell range, on reaching which there is a tolerably defined path with directing stones, which are continued to the top of the Pike. Huge blocks of stone and debris cover a large portion of the track, and the fatigue of clambering over them is not inconsiderable, but in other respects the route is un- attended with difficulty, and is in some respects to be preferred to any other. The views into Borrow- dale and Wastdale, which are occa- sionally caught during the ascent, are most striking. On Scawfell the botanist will find Salix herbacea, Statice armeria, Oxyria reniformis, Silene acaulis, Saxifraga oppositi- folia, Thalictrum alpinum and Bho- dolia rosea. Beturning from Wastdale Head to Strands, the tourist may proceed to Eskdale. [A pedestrian will do well to take the path from Wastdale Head over Burnmoor to Bout, 5 m., where there is a small and tolerable Inn , nearly in the centre of Eskdale. 1 \ m. from Bout on the rt. are the remains of a Druidical circle, and several sepulchral circles or cists on the 1. in proceeding towards Bout.] Santon Bridge (2 m.) (a small but comfortable Inn). The scenery of the river Irt, where it is crossed by the Bridge, is very pleasing. The river abounds in salmon and trout. On the 1. bank is Irton Hall .(Samuel Irton, Esq.). The mansion was built on the site of an ancient castle, of which the two towers and a portion of the old baronial hall remain. The banks of the Irt, which flows through the grounds, are remarkable for their sylvan beauty. The summer-house near the Lodge is worth a visit for the prospect which it commands. The Irt formerly produced pearls, which are said to have been obtained 93 in considerable quantities. It was, as is well known, the report of the existence of pearls in the rivers of Britain that excited the avarice of the Bomans and led to their invasion of the country ; and the river Irt was doubtless one of the places in which they were to be found, but they proved ill-coloured and of small value. The mussel producing them is the Mya Marga- retifera, which is still found in the river. Camden says that the pearls are formed from dewdrops, “ of which the fish are exceedingly fond,” and for which they open their shells at night; and Lysons says that “ the mussels sucking in the dewy stream conceive and bring forth pearls, or, as the poet calls them, shell-berries.” Bede speaks of them as of all colours, and says that those which are not bright and shin- ing are “as useful in 'physic as the finest, though not so beautiful.” The Church of Irton was rebuilt in 1795. It contains a monument to Admiral Lutwidge, under whom Nelson served in 1773, on a voyage of discovery to the Arctic regions. There is an ancient richly-sculptured cross in the churchyard, 10 feet in height. Eskdale. This beautiful valley is usually entered from the E., by the pass of Hardknot, but much of the effect of its scenery is thus lost. It is best to approach it from the “King of Prussia,” a small public- house at the further end, and to proceed as far as Hardknot, 5 m. The scenery thus gradually rises in interest as the head of the val- ley is approached. The geological formation in Eskdale is of a bolder character than that of many of the Cumberland vales; the rugged escarpments and pillared masses of rock indicate the existence of granite, and the luxuriant vegetation and the prevalence of wood are the 94 Boute 9 . — Bslcdale — Hardhnot Castle . effects of a soil enriched by its disintegration. The granite of Esk- dale is the most considerable mass of that rock in Cumberland. It forms rugged hills on both sides of the Esk and the Mite, ranging up to the higher forks of those rivers. At its N.W. and N.E. extremities it forms two long projecting masses, one of which strikes over Irton Fell and blends with the syenite of Wastdale Head ; the other, after ranging along the side of Scawfell above Burnmoor Tarn, crops out occasionally from under turf bogs, and passes over the hills into Wastdale Head. In Upper Eskdale the granite in one or two places passes nearly into a com- pact rock, and has a semi-columnar structure. Ked felspathic veins shoot from the granite into the green slate and porphyry. Many examples of this may be seen in the hills near Eskdale Head. The two waterfalls, Stanley Gliyll Fall and Birker Force , are on the rt. of the road leading up the valley to Hard- knot. Stanley Gliyll Fall is within a mile of the inn at Bout, at the end of a deep, narrow, and thickly- wooded ravine. It has 2 falls ; but their beauty consists rather in the grouping of the rocks and wood than in their volume of water or their height. Many of the rocks have acquired a pinnacled form, which, combined with the larches and firs, give somewhat of an Alpine cha- racter to the scenery. The fall is about 2 m. from the King of Prussia, and f m. from the roadside. Access to it may be obtained on application at the farmhouse, formerly Dalegarth Hall. Birker Force , 1 m. further up the valley on the rt. of the road, is about the same height as Stanley Ghyll, but it has not the same picturesque accessories, and the tourist who has seen the one will scarcely find it worth while to go out of his way to view the other. The antiquary will find in Esk- dale two objects of interest — the ruins of what is traditionally called “ the ancient city of Barnscar F and the Roman Camp at Hardknot. Barnscar is close to Devoke Water , a moorland tarn at the foot of Birker Fell, 1} m. from the King of Prus- sia, ^ m. long, with a small rocky island in the centre, the haunt of cormorants and sea-birds. This tarn is famed for its fine trout, which are of a deep pink colour. On the N.W. side are some fine masses of crystallized quartz, close to the junc- tion of the granite and green slate. Devoke Water sends a tributary to the Esk. Tradition ascribes the origin of the city of Barnscar to the Danes ; but from the shapeless masses of ruin which now cover the hill, very little can be even conjectured of its former character and extent. Piles of un- wrought stones, probably once the foundations of houses, are seen in the neighbourhood of the lake, and on the hills at its N. side. The object in collecting the stones toge- ther was apparently to clear the ground for pasture or cultivation. There are some remains of an ancient road which passed through Barnscar from Ulpha to Raven- glass. It is a wild and dreary spot, and can have little interest but for archaeologists. A boat is kept on Devoke Water, the use of which, for fishing, may be obtained on application to the Steward of the Manor through the landlord of the King of Prussia. Hardknot Castle is about 100 yds. 1. of the road, and about half-way to the top of the pass which leads to Langdale and Ambleside. The remains are of a Roman fortress which was erected here for the pro- tection of the pass. From the state of the ruins it may be gathered that the fort was an enclosure of about 300 ft. square, formed of stone obtained on the spot, with the exception of the Route 10 . — Whitehaven to Carlisle. 95 comers, which were of freestone, the greater part of which has been taken away for building pur- poses. Roman bricks have been found among the foundations. An opening to the W. leads to a cleared portion of the Fell, 150 yards square, which was doubtless the parade-ground of the garrison. It is called by the country people the “ bowling-green,” from the smooth- ness of its surface. On the N. is an artificial mound, on the top of which are the remains of a round tower which was probably an observatory. Wordsworth’s sonnet on the Roman and Druidical remains in Eskdale is very characteristic — - “ A dark plume fetch me from yon blasted yew. Perched on whose top the Danish raven croaks ; ! Aloft the imperial bird of Rome invokes Departed ages, shedding where he flew Loose fragments of wild wailing that be- strew The clouds, and thrill the chambers of the rocks, And into silence hush the timorous flocks, That, calmly couching while the nightly dew Moistened each fleece beneath the twinkling stars, Slept amid that lone camp on Hard Knot’s height, Whose guardians bent the knee to Jove and Mars, Or near that mystic round of Druid frame, Tardily sinking by its proper weight Deep into patient earth, from whose smooth breast it came.” Nothing can exceed the desolate grandeur of the scenery at the foot of Scawfell and Bowfell, to appre- ciate which it is necessary to track the Esk to its sources amidst those “ unpeopled glens And mountainous retirements, only trod By devious footsteps, regions consecrate To oldest time.” The road through Eskdale, after passing over Hardknot, descends abruptly upon Cockley Beck (Rte. 4) at the head of the valley of the Duddon, whence it is continued over Wrynose to Ambleside. ROUTE 10. WHITEHAVEN TO CARLISLE, THROUGH WORKINGTON, MARYPORT, ASPA- TRIA, AND WIGTON— BY RAIL. The rly. follows the line of coast until within 2 m. of Workington. 3 in. Workington (See Rte. 8). From Workington the rly. follows the indentations of the coast, and is thrown into numerous curves. To the rt., after quitting the coast-line, is Ellenborough , the place from which Edward Law, first Lord Ellenbo- rough and Chief Justice of the Court of King’s Bench, took his title. 7 m. Maryport Stat. ( Inn : Golden Lion) : a town of modern creation. Pop. 6037. In 1750 there was only 1 house on the site of the present town, which is built along the shore, and on the sandy heights above the mouth of the river Ellen, which here falls into the sea. The staple is coal. There are shipbuilding-yards and a few manufactories of checks and linens. The pier is of stone, with a long wooden addition pro- jecting 300 yards into the sea. A capacious wet dock has been added to the port. The arrange- ments for bringing the coal to the ships by tramways, &c., are excellent. On the clilf, a little to the N. of the 96 'Route 10 . — Mary port — Aspatria. town, are tlie remains of the large Roman stat. Virosidum. Its position gave it a commanding view of the Solway Frith and the Irish Channel. The camp was a very large one, and the line of its ramparts is well defined, but the ditches were much deeper within living memory than at present. The E. side, the only one not de- fended by a natural defile, was pro- tected by a double fosse. There are some traces of masonry near the gate- way on this side, which renders it probable that the entrance had been protected by outworks. Some portions of this gateway remain ; the approach was found to be indicated by the tracks of chariot-wheels. The ruts were about 5 in. deep, and 5 ft. 10 in. apart. Within the stat. is a well. The interior of the stat. was excavated in 1766. The following account of the appearances which it then presented is given by Lysons : — “ The work- men found the arch of the gate bent violently down and broken ; and, on entering, the great street disclosed evident marks of the houses having been more than once burned to the ground and rebuilt. The streets had been paved with broad flagstones, much worn by use, particularly the steps into a vaulted room, supposed to have been a temple. The houses had been roofed with Scotch slates, which, with the pegs that fastened them, lay confusedly in the street. Glass vessels, and even mirrors, were found, and coals had evidently been used in the fireplaces. Foundations of buildings were round the fort on all sides.” In the grounds of Nether Hall (H. P. Senhouse, Esq.), a short distance from the town, is an embankment supposed to mark the site of the hospital of the Roman garrison of Virosidum ; it is in a sheltered posi- tion well adapted for such a purpose. The Roman stat. at Maryport has yielded numerous and important remains of antiquity, which are pre- served at Nether Hall. In the cor- ridor there is a bas-relief of a warrior on horseback, triumphing over a fallen enemy ; the drawing, although not very correct, is very spirited. There are also many altars, mural tablets, sepulchral monuments, in- scriptions, and rude sculptures, to- gether with coins, cooking-vessels, broken glass and pottery, iron imple- ments, &c. The largest altar found here was given in 1683, by John Senhouse, Esq., to Sir John Lowther, and it is now in the entrance-hall of the Castle at Whitehaven. The next largest altar discovered is now at Nether Hall ; it is very elegantly designed and in good preservation ; the inscription is clear and well cut, and quite perfect. It is dedicated to Jupiter by the 1st Spanish cohort and their tribune, M. Agrippa. A large roughly-hewn head of Jupiter is placed on this altar, but it had no original connexion with it. There are other altars, more or less perfect — 1 dedicated to Mars, 1 to the Goddess Setlocenia ; 2 Victories holding a wreath, inscribed il Victorias Augustorum Dominorum Nostrorum,’ 7 very curious. There is a tablet dedicated to JEsculapius, with an inscription in Greek. [On the 1., after passing Maryport, is the small watering-place of Allonby {Inns: The Ship; New Inn). The sands are extensive. The lodging-houses are small, but the place is much resorted to in the bathing season. The stat. for Al- lonby is Aspatria, 4 m. There is no omnibus or regular conveyance.] 8 m. Aspatria Stat. {Inn: The Sun), an euphonious corruption of Gospatrick, the name of the 1st Lord of Allerdale, is an irregular village, 1 m. long, on the edge of a sandy ridge, and in the centre of a fertile agricultural dis- trict. About 200 yds. N. of the village, on a rising ground called 97 Route 10 . — Wig ton — Old Carlisle . Beacon Hill, was an ancient bar- row, which, on being opened in the last centy., was found to contain the skeleton of a man measuring 7 ft. from the head to the ankle-bone ; on his 1. side was a broadsword 7 ft. long, the guard inlaid with silver, and at his rt. side a dagger, richly chased. The Ch. is modern, built in 1848 on the site of the old one (St. Kentigern). It is of E. Eng. style combined with Norm. The W. door- way possesses a rich, deeply-moulded, chevron Norman arch, and is a fine specimen of modern workmanship. The tower is handsome, and has a pinnacle at one of its angles. There is some tolerably good stained glass ; E. window and several memorial side-windows are handsome. A side- chapel contains monuments of a younger branch of the Musgrave family, which settled at Hayton, 2 m. from Aspatria ; the castle is now a farmhouse. This chapel has been restored, and the colours and gold employed in its decoration give it a very rich appearance. Near Aspatria is Brayton Hall , the seat of Sir Wil- frid Lawson, Bart. An archaeologist might find an excursion to Gaer Mote , 3 m. S. of Aspatria, interesting. It is to the W. of Ireby, the Arbeia of the Romans. There are remains of a square camp enclosed with a double fosse. On the N. side stood a bea- con, which must have commanded the whole extent of the Solway Frith, and would naturally receive the first tidings from a frontier stat. of any attempt of the Caledonians to cross the Frith. The signal would then be communicated to the garrison of Keswick, by the watch-tower on the top of Castle Crag in Borrowdale. 8 m. Wigton Stat. ; Pop. 4000 ( Inn : King’s Arms). The town is built of red brick, and was once the seat of a considerable cotton manufacture. Coal is raised within 3 m. The town stands in an open country, which is [ Westm . and Cumb.~\ said to be the most healthy district of Cumberland, and is highly culti- vated. Caldbeck Fells and Skiddaw are visible to the S. Smirke the architect was born here. The Ch. was built in 1788 on the site of an older one said to have been con- structed of the stone taken from the ruins of the Roman stat. [ Old Carlisle , distant 1 m. from the town. The remains are ex- tensive, covering many acres. The fort was oblong, and defended by a double fosse. It stood on the military way leading to Carlisle ; the Roman name is unknown. No traces of masonry are visible, but the whole is covered up with turf and brambles. The river Wiza runs below it on the S. and W. All that is known of this Roman station is that an ala or wing of a Roman legion, called for its valour Augusta , was quartered here in the reign of the Emperor Gordian, as appears from several mural inscriptions found among the ruins. A great many images, equestrian figures, eagles, coins, &c., have been dug up, and more might doubtless be discovered by a careful exploration. The ram- parts and sites of the interior buildings are boldly marked ; the 4 gateways are well defined. A double ditch, with an intervening vallum, seems to have surrounded the fort. The remains of suburban buildings may be seen without the walls, on the N. and E. Within the fort a street may be distinctly traced from the N. to the S. gate, and another from the E. towards the W. Near the centre of the station is a moist spot which may have been a well. “We cannot contemplate the po- sition of Old Carlisle and its associ- ated camps without appreciating the military skill which suggested the arrangement. A circular line of camps, — Stanwix and Carlisle, Brough, Drumburgh, Bowness,Mary- F 98 Boute 10 . — Curtlavaite — Bose Castle. port, and Morseby, — begirt the N.W. of Cumberland; and Old Carlisle is the point in which the radiating lines from these several stations would centre. ; Should an army break any one of these links of the outer chain of fortifications, the garrison of Old Carlisle would be ready to receive it. On this point, too, the garrisons of the coast, if repulsed, could fall back and prepare with increased force to renew the attack. By means of outlook-posts on the peaks of the elevated ridge of moun- tains to the E. and W. of the station, information could easily be conveyed as to what was passing on the frontier, and communicated to the garrisons in every direction.” — Bruce on the Homan Wall. The prospect from the highest part of the camp is fine.] The Church ot Wigfcon is plain, and possesses no archaeological interest. There is an old tombstone in the ch.-yard, the inscription on which, now almost illegible, was cut by the vicar, the Rev. Sir Thomas Warcop, Bart., and the monumental slab was kept in his house until he died. It bears the date 1653, and runs thus : — Thomas Warcop prepared this stone, To mind him oft of his best home : Little hut pain and miserie heere Till wee be carried on our beere. Out of the grave and earthy dust The Lord will raise me upp I trust. To live with Christ eternallie, Who, me to save, himself did die.” The market ofWigton, until the middle of the 17th centy., was held on Sundays in the churchyard. The butchers hung the carcases of the animals on the ch.-doors, and cut them up after divine service. Sir Thomas Warcop went to London expressly to present a petition to Charles I. for changing the market-day, in order to avoid the desecration to which the churchyard was subject, and it was accordingly changed from Sunday to Tuesday. Near Wigton is Crofton Hall, the seat of Sir Robert Briscoe, Bart., and Highmore House (W. Banks, Esq.). 5 m. Curthwaite Stat. 1 m. to the 1. is Thursby ; the Ch. is said to have been built by David I. King of Scot- land. At this place once stood a temple dedicated to Thor, the founda- tions of which were discovered about the end of the last century, and an image of the god dug up : a relic of the Scandinavian worship, which was probably introduced into this part of England by the Danes. Thor-worship was widely dissemin- ated amongst the common people of Scandinavia at the introduction of the Christian religion, and the traces of Paganism still to be found in Gothland and Norway are remnants of Thor-worship. In certain parts of the country, about 100 years ago, Thursday was still regarded as a kind of holiday, on whith no heavy or serious work was to be done, and there are said to be old women now living who will not churn on Thurs- days. 2 J m. Dalston Stat., a considerable village on the 1. bank of the Caldew. There is a cross at the E. end, orna- mented with coats of arms. [ Rose Castle , 2 in., the palace of the Bishops of Carlisle. It was almost entirely rebuilt in the last century for Bishop Percy, by the architects Rickman and Hutchinson, in the style of the ancient castle, which was in partial ruins even before the civil war of 1645, and was afterwards adver- tised for sale as “ a decayed castle, well built with hewn stone.” Ed- ward I. made it for a short time his residence while preparing his last expedition against Scotland ; and the writs for assembling a Parlia- ment at Carlisle were dated there. The castle was besieged, sacked, and burned by the Scots in 1337. Among the remains of the an- Boute 11 . — Carlisle to Silloth. 99 cient castle are the keep ; a tower, named after Bishop Strickland, built early in the 15th centy. ; a tower built by Bishop Bell, 1496 ; and another by Bishop Kite, 1529. The staircase is of carved oak, and the chapel is fitted up with oaken stalls and wainscoting, with canopied niches. The view from the bridge, of the castle with its woods and hanging gardens, is striking.] The approach to Carlisle is inter- esting, and the scenery of the river Caldew, w T hich the rly. crosses several times, is very pleasing. For a de- cription of the city see Rte. 7. ROUTE 11. CARLISLE TO SILLOTH, BY BURGH- ON - THE - SANDS— SOLWAY MOSS, NETHER BY— KAIL. 6J m. Burgh Stat. (pronounced Bruff), at the edge of Burgh Marsh, celebrated as the place where Edward I. died shortly after having joined his army for the invasion of Scot- land. The Marsh is an extensive plain, and over it now wander thousands of cattle, which are sent there to fatten. In 1307 it was whitened by the tents of an army of 40,000 men. After a protracted stay at Carlisle the King proceeded to Burgh Marsh, and was received with acclamations by his troops, but he died in his tent a few days after his arrival. The monument to his memory, 1| m. from Burgh, was erected in 1685, on the spot where the King is supposed to have ex- pired, by Henry Duke of Norfolk. It is 28 feet high, and on the E side bears the inscription— MEMORISE ETERN.® EDVARDI I REGIS ANGLE® QUI IN BELLI APPARATU CONTRA SCOTOS OCCUPATUS, HIC IN CASTRIS OBHT VII JULII 1307 Burgh was a stat. on the Roman wall (Axelodunum), and there have been found near it many Roman re- mains. The Church is an ancient for- tified stronghold — “Half church of God, half castle gainst the Scot.” On any inroad from the Scottish border the cattle were shut up in the body of the ch., and the inhabitants betook themselves to the large embattled tower* at its W. end. The only en- trance to this tower is from the inside of the ch., and it is secured by a ponderous iron door, fastening with 2 large bolts. The walls of the tower are 7 feet thick. Its lowest compartment is a vaulted chamber lighted by 3 narrow slits in the wall. At the S. angle is a spiral stone stair- case, leading to 2 upper chambers. The stone of which the ch. is built was taken from the Roman wall. [Near Burgh is the site on which stood the castle of Sir Hugh de Morville, one of the murderers of Thomas a Becket. The adjoining hill is called “ Hangman’s Tree,” from the gallows which Sir Hugh erected there, always ready for use. From Burgh Stat. there is a branch rly. to Drumburgh and Port Carlisle with horse traction. The Roman wall terminates at Bowness-on-the-Sea, where there was a fort in a com- manding position (Tunnocellum) situate on a rocky promontory. The ramparts of the fort are still well defined, as well as the ditch which f 2 100 Boute 11 . — Solway Moss . surrounded it, but they are now co- vered with a fine sward. The castle was a good specimen of a fortified manor-house ; it is now a farmhouse.] 9 m . Silloth ( Inns : Solway Hotel, a large and handsome establishment — board and lodging 4s. 6d. a day, and private sitting-rooms from 10s. to 16s. per week ; Royal Hotel). The town is a modern creation, and is much resorted to for sea-bathing. The views of the Scotch coast are fine, and the mountain Criifel rises directly in front, on the opposite coast. A fine smooth green extends from the Solway Hotel to the seashore. The mean annual temperature of Silloth is 49 D , 1° therefore higher than that of Hastings — the effect of the gulf-stream. The prevail- ing wind is S.W. The mean daily range of temperature is only 13° 2'. The climate is considered highly favourable for pulmonary invalids. The port is of increasing import- ance. The dock possesses an area of 5 acres, is built of stone, and has 20 feet of water at high, and 11 at low tide. A rly. is carried round the basin, which is furnished with cranes, coal-hoists, and hurries. A fine jetty, 1000 feet long, projects into the sea ; at its end is a light- house. Steamers twice a week to Liver- pool ; and to Dublin, Belfast, and the Isle of Man weekly. [An excursion may be made from Carlisle to Longtown , 9J m., by the N. British Rly., on the 1. bank of the Esk. In the retreat of Charles Ed- ward, after his unsuccessful invasion of England, a portion of his forces crossed the Esk at Longtown, where the river was forded breast deep to- wards the end of November. There were at one time 2000 men in the water, with only their heads and shoulders visible. On their reaching the opposite side the pipes struck up, and the men danced reels until they were dry. Arthuret Ch., the parish ch., J m. from Longtown, contains many mo- numents of the Graham family ; among them a tablet to the memory of the Right Hon. Sir James Gra- ham, Bart. The remains of the eminent statesman were interred on the N. side of the churchyard. Here is an ancient cross, the top of it broken, said to mark the grave of Archy Armstrong, the court fool of Charles I., who was a native of this place ; but it is more probably a Danish cross. The king’s jester was certainly buried here, having retired to Arthuret after he was banished from court for having offended Archbishop Laud. Gretna Green is 3J m. from Long- town, and on the rt. of the road to it is Solway Moss, on the rt. bank of the Esk, a short distance from Long- town, the spot where, in 1522, was fought the battle in which Sir Thomas Wharton, Warden of the West Marches and Governor of Car- lisle, defeated the Scotch army under Sinclair, the favourite of James V. “The Scots crossed the border in order to invade Carlisle, and over- spread the country, burning and lay- ing waste all before them. The Lord Warden of the Marches lost no time in collecting the forces of the Border to oppose them; they speedily en- countered the Scots, and struck terror into the disorganised force. Few knew the ground, and 10,000 men in the darkness lost the route by which they had come, and strayed towards the sea. The tide was flowing at the time; some flung away their arms and struggled through, but vast numbers were drowned, and many surrendered to women, where there were no men to take them prisoners. The main body wandered into the Solway Moss, between the Esk and Gretna, where Wharton had them at his mercy, and the whole 101 Route 12 . — Carlisle to Gilsland Spa. army was either killed or taken prisoners. Never in all the wars between England and Scotland had there been a defeat more complete, more sudden, and more disgraceful.” — Froude. The Solway Junot. Ely. crosses the Solway Firth from Bowness Point below Port Carlisle to the Port of Annan on the Scotch shore, 8 m. below Gretna. It consists of 2 em- bankments connected by an open iron Viaduct Bridge , 1960 yards long, in spans of 30 ft., resting on cast-iron piles with chilled points, 34 ft. above the Solway. Bowness Moss, on the Cumberland side, in parts an un- stable sponge 50 ft. deep, was reduced by drains about 5 ft., and on this the line is laid upon faggots. Mr. James Brunlees is the engineer. The cost was 100,000Z. It joins the Cale- donian Ely. at Kirtle Bridge, 17 m. N. of Carlisle. The drive up the banks of the Esk, above Longtown, is very pleasing. Netherby (Sir Frederick Graham, Bt.), 3 m. from Longtown, is situ- ated on the 1. bank of the Esk. The mansion is in the centre of an ex- tensive and well-wooded park; the nucleus of the house is an old Border tower, with walls of great thickness; and on its site was a Eoman camp, and probably a fort of considerable importance during the Eoman occupation. The Grahams, or Graemes, seem to have been the most turbulent of the borderers, and constant disturbers of the public peace. Their “ godman ,” as the head of the clan was styled, had no control over them, and at length, by royal proclamation, in the 1st year of James I., they were transplanted to Ireland, at the expense of the country. Twice, however, they came back and resumed their old courses. Some very fine sculptures, altars, and tablets have been found at various times in the neighbourhood, and are preserved at Netherby. The Eoman city of iEsica is believed to have been situated near Netherby.] EOUTE 12. CARLISLE TO GILSLAND SPA, BY WETHERAL, CORBY, BRAMPTON AND NAWORTH CASTLE — RAIL. 6 J m. Wetheral Stat. A magnificent viaduct here spans the Eden, and the views on both sides can scarcely be surpassed. Corby Castle (P. H. Howard, Esq.) is a plain square mansion, built of red sandstone, with a Doric portico, and a ba- lustrade round the house is sur- mounted with lions, the family crest. The house, which is not generally shown, contains some good pic- tures ; among them a full-length portrait of Lord William Howard (Belted Will), and one of Charles Y. informing his Empress of his inten- tion to abdicate. The mansion is finely situated on the edge of a lofty cliff, overlooking the Eden. Corby, on the attainder of the Earl of Car- lisle in the reign of Edw. II., was forfeited to the Crown, whereupon it was granted to Sir Eichard de Sal- keld, Kt., whose descendants pos- sessed it for many generations. There are several monuments of this family in the adjoining ch. of Wetheral. Corby is now, and has been for many years, the property of the Howard family. The beauty of the walks on the banks of the Eden cannot be surpassed. 102 Route 12 .- “ For Paradise’s seat no more Let travellers seek on Persia’s shore ; Its groves, still flourishing, appear Upon the banks of Eden here.” — Ralph's Poems. The grounds are shown on Wed- nesdays. Walks are cut through the woods down to the river, and are beautiful, particularly the turf walk, which extends for a considerable distance along the margin of the stream. The foaming river, the lofty wooded crags and mural pre- cipices, make Corby one of the most remarkable and attractive spots in the N. of England. On the oppo- site bank of the river are the cells cut out of rock in the face of a pre- cipice called the Wether al Safeguard , and sometimes St. Constantine s Cells, from a tradition that St. Constan- tine resided here when a hermit; but they more probably formed a hiding-place or retreat for the monks of the adjacent Priory from the Scotch maurauders or other enemies. The cells are excavations in the solid rock, and are 40 feet above the river. A ledge served as the foundation for a wall which was built in front of the cells, and formed a sort of gallery or covered passage. There are no traces of steps; the entry must therefore have been effected by a ladder, afterwards drawn into the cells, which were concealed by hanging wood. Wether al Priory , on the opposite side of the Eden. The remains are very slight, consisting only of a tur- reted gateway, with scarcely a trace of the conventual buildings, the site of which is occupied by a farm- house. The Priory was founded in 1088, for monks of the Benedictine order. It fell with the other monas- teries, and its estates were bestowed on the Dean and Chapter of Carlisle. The monastic buildings are said to have been pulled down for build- ing Prebendal houses with the ma- terials. The situation of the Priory — Wether al. was good; to the E. and S. are the hanging woods of Corby, and on the other side a highly pic- turesque country, “ the banks of the river affording many solemn retreats, impending cliffs, embowering shades, still vales, and calm recesses for the resort of the meditative and reli- gious.” — Camden. It was an ap- pendage to St. Mary’s Abbey, York. The parish Ch. is in the Perp. style. The S. side appears to be of greater antiquity than the other. The tower was built in 1760. The ch. con- tains a small chapel, in which is the vault of the Howard family. Among the monuments is the celebrated one by Nollekens, of Mrs. Howard, who died in childbirth. In the vestry there is a small Norm, door- way, which once formed the entrance to the ch. There are several monu- ments of the Salkeld family, one with a curious epitaph — “ Here lies Sir Richard Salkeld, that knight 1 Who in his day was mickle of might ; The Captain and Keeper of Carlisle was he. And also the Lord of Corkebye ; And now he lies under this stane, He and his lady, Dame Jane.” From Wetheral to the junction 'of the Eden with the Eamont near Penrith, few districts in England possess a greater variety of beautiful river scenery. A pedestrian, instead of taking the rly. to Penrith, would do well to take the road by the 1. bank of the Eden, from Wetheral, through Armathwaite, where he will cross the bridge to the rt. bank and proceed to Kirkoswald, from whence he may visit Nunnery, and then pro- ceed to Penrith through Addingham. The road here passes through the grand Druidical circle of Long Meg and her Daughters, then by Long- wathby and Eden Hall. The distance from Wetheral is 26 m. Kirkoswald will afford tolerable accommodation for a night. On an eminence in the middle of a dreary waste, at Cumwhitton, 4 m. from Wetheral, is Grey Yawd, a 103 Route 12 . — Naworth Castle . Druidical circle composed of 88 large stones. A single stone, larger than the rest, stands out of the circle about 5 yards to the N.W. From Armathwaite the views of the Eden and its hanks are particularly fine. The river is spanned by a handsome bridge of 1 elliptic arches. An archaeologist may find the little ch. of Warwick (1J m. N. of Wetheral) of some interest. It is very ancient, and is remarkable for its apse containing 13 narrow Norm, niches reaching nearly to the ground. In the upper part of each there was originally a small window ; the niches all but 3 have been filled up with masonry. These now form small lancet windows with stained glass. The W. door has a fine deeply-moulded Norm. arch. Warwick was for a short time the head-quarters of Prince Charles be- fore his attack on Carlisle. He was entertained at Warwick Hall, on the 1. bank of the Eden, now the man- sion of T. Parker, Esq. The bridge of 4 arches over the Eden is handsome, and was finished in 1835. Holme Eden , the seat of Peter Dixon, Esq., is a handsome mansion in the Tudor style, at a short dis- tance from the bridge. Warwick Bridge , a village 1 m. from Warwick, has some cotton manufactories. The new ch. of St. Paul, at Holme Eden, is hand- some, and built of red sand- stone. 8 m. Naworth Castle (the Earl of Carlisle). The nearest station is Milton ; but visitors to Naworth, if they request it, can be set down at Naworth Gates, close to the castle, one of the most interesting remains of the feudal age in Eng- land. A portion of it is new, having been rebuilt after a fire which, a few years ago, consumed a consider- able portion of the ancient castle, with its valuable contents. The restorations have been so judiciously effected that the castle is still a very perfect and characteristic specimen of a great Border fortress, when war was the normal condition of the northern counties of England. Na- worth was for many generations the stronghold of the Dacres of Gilsland. In the reign of Edw. HI. the inheritor of the ancient barony of Gilsland determined on building a stronger and more imposing fortress, and fixed on the picturesque and wood- crowned heights of Naworth as its site. Lord Dacre built the castle in the usual quadrangular form, and it was defended by a double moat. The angle of the S. front possessed massive battlemented towers. A strong curtain wall enclosed the outer court, and the interior quad- rangle was approached by a lofty archway, which opened from the narrow path on the very edge of a deep wooded ravine, which afforded a complete protection on that side. The principal historical interest of Naworth Castle is derived from its having been the residence of Lord William Howard, Lord Warden of the Marches, who kept in it a garrison of 140 men, and who was long the ter- ror of mosstroopers, and the scourge of Scotch aggressors. Lord Wil- liam, the 2nd son of Thomas, 4th Duke of Norfolk, became possessed of this castle on his marriage in 1557 with Lady Elizabeth Dacre, one of the coheiresses of the baronies of Gilsland and Greystock, after it had been the property of the Dacre fa- mily for more than 250 years. In 1605 Lord William Howard was appointed Warden of the West Marches. In the exercise of this office he displayed extraordinary energy. Fuller, the Church historian, says of his mode of dealing with the mosstroopers, that “ they had two great enemies, the lawes of the lande and the Lord Henry How- 104 Route 12 . — Naworth Castle. ard of Naworth,” and that “ he sent many of them to that place where the officer always does his work by daylight.” Great improvements were made in the Castle of Naworth on its coming into the possession of Lord William Howard. On the dismantling of the Castle of Kirkoswald (p. Ill), which he had also acquired by his marriage with Lady Dacre, he transferred to Naworth the fine oak ceiling and wainscoting, where they remained until destroyed by the fire in 1844. In the tower chamber, which Lord William Howard used as his library, there is a fine oak roof, curiously carved with heraldic bosses, enriched with gold and colours, a modern restoration effected under the direc- tion of the Earl of Carlisle. Lord William Howard, whose ex- ploits made him in a subsequent age a hero of romance, is the “Belted Will ” of the ‘Lay of the Last Minstrel,’ and by that name he was always fami- liarly called by the Borderers and the people of the district, in which he lived. Sir Walter Scott thus depicts him : — “ Costly his garb — his Flemish ruff Fell o’er his doublet shaped of buff, With satin slashed and lined ; Tawny his boot, and gold his spur, His cloak was all of Poland fur, His hose with silver twined. His Bilboa blade, by Marchmen felt, Hung in a broad and studded belt ; Hence in rude phrase the Borderers still Call’d noble Howard 4 Belted Will/ ” Lord William Howard was an in- tellectual and learned man, as well as a good soldier. Camden, who, with his friend Sir Robert Cotton, visited him at Naworth, describes him as an accomplished scholar and an excellent antiquarian. His devo- tion to study was so great that he often shut himself up in his tower for hours together. He died at Na- worth, Oct. 9th, 1640, having at- tained the age of 77. The walls of the castle rise from the top of a deep and wooded ravine, and on the E. and W. sides two streams, tributaries of the Irthing, flow past it. The only side by which the castle could be assailed was the S., where it was defended by a double moat and drawbridge, and by lofty battle- mented towers. The quadrangle is now entered from a gateway with an embrasured parapet, be- low which is a shield with the arms of the Dacres quartering those of De Yaux and De Multon, en- circled with a garter, supported by griffins, and crested with a collared bull. Passing through the Gothic archway, over which are the armorial insignia of the Howards, the quad- rangle is entered. A flight of steps conducts to the great Hall , 78 ft. in length. The fine open timber roof is from the design of Salvin. Along the whole length of the hall on each side are heraldic shields on the cor- bels, supporting the ribs of the roof. The Hall contains many family portraits, some good tapestry and armour. Of the portraits, 7 are on panel, half-length size : one of Thomas Duke of Norfolk, celebrated as Lord Surrey, the hero of Flodden Field ; Oliver Cromwell ; Queen Catherine Parr ; a full-length por- trait of King Charles I., by Van - dyk ; a full-length portrait of Mary Queen of England ; one of Anne Countess of Pembroke. At the end of the hall, over the dais, is an ad- mirable full-length picture of Lord William Howard, and Lady Eliza- beth his wife — the most interesting of the family pictures. In the Draw- ing-room , over the fireplace, is a pic- ture of a mosstrooper crossing the border by moonlight. To the 1. is Thomas Howard, 4th Duke of Nor- folk, who was beheaded temp. Queen Elizabeth ; Lady Mary Howard, daughter of the 1st Earl of Carlisle, and wife of Sir John Fenwick, who was beheaded temp. William III.; and 3 very fine pieces of tapestry, representing Leander cross- 105 Route 12.-— -Lanercost Priory . ing the Hellespont. The library, bed- room, and oratory of Lord William still retain some of their original characteristic features. “ The apart- ments he occupied, the furniture he used, the books he read, the sword he had so often wielded for his sove- reign, and the altar at which he knelt, were preserved so completely in their original state down to the time of the fire, that they carried back the visitor to the time when the Lord Warden in person might be heard ascending his turret-stair, and almost led you to expect his arrival.” — Sir W. Scott. The massive door, strongly clamped with iron, which guards the narrow staircase leading to the apartments occupied by Lord William, proves that even within his strongly-defended castle he took due precautions for his personal safety. The oratory has been restored and decorated with gold and colours in the richest style of mediseval art by Salvin. The interior of the castle exhibits many contrivances for defence and retreat from the attacks of moss- troopers or other Border foes. “ The internal arrangement of the for- tress seems to have been planned to keep an enemy out, or to elude discovery if he got in.” Some of the secret recesses and hiding-places are probably still unknown. The stair- cases are long, winding, and narrow, with doors opening to the more retired apartments, some strongly plated with iron. [ Lanercost Priory, \ m. from Ha- worth Castle, situated in a beautiful wooded valley, with the river Irthing flowing by it. The Priory Ch. is in the E. Eng. style. Contiguous to it was a monastery of the order of St. Augustine. Its endowments con- sisted of all the lands lying between the Piets Wall and Irthing, and between Burgh and Poltrop. The several grants made to the priory were confirmed by charters of Edw. I. and Henry III. The latter king granted to the prior and convent the advowson of 2 churches. Many other liberal donations were made to this monastery, some of them very cha- racteristic of the times, such as the tithes of venison, the skins of deer and foxes, tithe of mill, a pasture for milking and sheep, the bark of trees, a well or spring, and sundry villeins , their issue and goods. The convent, after its dissolution, was repaired and fitted up as a residence by Lord Thomas Dacre, who built the castel- lated addition at the S. end, which formed no part of the original edi- fice. The Priory was founded in 1169, by Kobert de Yallibus, Go- vernor of Carlisle. Few vestiges of the monastic buildings remain, although they were once sufficiently extensive to accommodate Edw. I. and his court while he was making his preparations for the invasion of Scotland. Edw. I. made 3 visits to this Priory; one with his Queen Eleanor in 1280, another in 1300, and a third, 1306, with his Queen Margaret. In 1357 the house re- ceived a visitation from the Bp. of Carlisle, who compelled the canons to accept new statutes, and the Prior was enjoined not in future to frequent public huntings, and not to keep so large a pack of hounds as he had for- merly done. Robert Bruce was at Lanercost with his army in 1311, and imprisoned several of the monks, but ordered them to be set at liberty after his departure. The monastery was pillaged by David King of Scot- land in 1346. At the time of its sup- pression the establishment consisted of a prior and 7 canons. The shell only of the chancel of the ch. remains, but the nave has been restored and fitted up as a parish ch. It never had more than 1 aisle. The entrance is .through a richly moulded doorway; above the window is a canopied niche, containing a figure of St. Mary Mag- dalen, to whom the ch. was dedicated, and the small figure of a monk kneel- f 3 106 Route 12 . — Brampton — Gilsland Spa. ing by her side. The W. window has 7 lancet arches, in only 3 of which are lights. The walls of the chancel and transepts are still standing, to- gether with the centre tower, but without a roof. There are some imperfect remains of sedilia. On the S. side circular pillars support the dilapidated clerestory; on the N. side both triforium and clerestory are tolerably perfect, but the arches are different, those on one side being pointed, and on the other round. In the choir is a side chapel contain- ing several very richly-sculptured altar-tombs of the Dacre family, but much defaced. One of the tombs, the inscription of which is obliterated, is supposed to be that of Lord Wil- liam Howard ; the priory ch. having been the burial-place of the Howard as well as of the Dacre family. The crypt, under the former refectory of the convent, is very perfect ; and in it have been deposited some Eoman altars and sculptures discovered in the neighbourhood. The Priory with its ch. is believed to have been built with stones taken from the Roman wall, several Roman in- scriptions having been discovered on them. On the dissolution of the monasteries the Priory of Lanercost was granted by Henry VIII. to Sir Thomas Dacre, Kt., a lineal descen- dant of the founder. It is now the property of the Earl of Carlisle.] Brampton , 1J m. from Naworth (Pop. 2300), a small town, prettily situated in a deep and narrow vale. It was a Roman station; near the town is a hill, called The Mote , 360ft. high, surrounded with a fosse, which is supposed to have been either a Danish fort or a court of justice, as indicated by the Saxon word mote. Prince Charles Edward fixed his head-quarters here before he ad- vanced southwards. [2 m. from Brampton, on the banks of the little river Gelt, and 1^ from Gelt Bridge, is a rock called Hilbech , on which is cut an inscription by the 2nd Roman legion (Augusta), which was stationed here, under the com- mand of Agricola, the propraetor. The cliff is nearly perpendicular, and the river washes its base. The scenery at this spot would alone repay a visit, but the tourist would scarcely find it without a guide. The inscribed face of the rock is about 5 ft. above the water. There are some doubts as to the precise reading, but the substance of it is that “ the vexillarii of the 2nd le- gion were, in the consulship of Flavius Asper and Albinus Romanus (a.d. 270), employed to hew stone here for the Romans.” The inscrip- tion has been partially effaced by modern names !] Boseliill Stat., 18 m. from Carlisle. 2 m. from the stat. is Gilsland Spa , much resorted to in the summer for its medicinal waters. The large hotel was built on the site of the old Shaws Hotel, which was de- stroyed by fire in 1859. It is a hand- some building, in the Italian style, and contains a large public room, besides 15 private sitting-rooms and 120 bed-rooms. There are lodging- houses in the vicinity. Charges for board and lodging at the hotel are, for first-class visitors, 7s. 6d. per day, including attendance ; private sitting- rooms extra, from 6s. to 2s. The scenery, although without any grand features, possesses many attractions. A sulphuretted stream issues from the bottom of a precipice 90 ft. in height, and flows at the rate of about 2£ gallons per minute. The analysis of the water is : — Common salt .... 20*05864 Carbonate of soda. . . 4*50296 i. Carbonate of lime. . . 1*462 Silica 1*1696 27 * 19320 There is also a chalybeate spring. “ The sulphate of iron, which is the Route 12 . — Bardoswald — Beivcastle. 107 most valuable ingredient in this water, is so strong that the 20th part of a grain mixed in a pint of ordinary water may be readily distinguished. ’ Gilsland Spa is associated with Sir Walter Scott. Here he first met the lady who became his wife. Gilsland is also the scene of a por- tion of ‘Guy Mannering/ and sup- plied Sir W. Scott with some of its characters. One of the places visited from Gils- land is “ Mumps Ha,” or Beggars’ Hall, the house where Dandie Din- mont is represented in ‘ Guy Man- nering ’ as telling the news of Ellan- gowan’s death to Meg Merrilies. It was formerly a public-house kept by Meg Teasdale, who is said to have drugged her guests, that she might rob and murder them. A deep pond on the rt. of the road is shown, where Meg disposed, as it is alleged, of the bodies of her victims ; and a phosphorescent light is said to flicker nightly upon its waters. [ Burdoswald , a Roman station, is 2J m. from Gilsland. The ground, over an area of 5 or 6 acres, is much scarred, and the fosse may be dis- tinctly traced. When the rubbish which had accumulated for centuries about the gates was cleared away some years ago, the ruts formed by the Roman chariot-wheels were ex- posed to view. Many Roman altars, fragments of pottery, and coins have been found here. The Great Wall ran a little to the N. of Lanercost Priory, and near it is one of the mile castles, or stations. The place is provincially called Money Holes , in consequence of the frequent searches which have been made to discover supposed hidden treasure. After crossing a rivulet called Burthdine Beck, a portion of the wall, 7 ft. high, is seen, but the facing-stones are gone, and it presents the appear- ance rather of a mound, tufted with hazels and alders, than of a work of masonry. Alston {Inn : Lowbyen), the capital of the lead-mining district of Cum- berland, may be reached from Rose Hill stat. by railway, 16 m., but as the mines are in a district as wild as any in Cornwall, it can have little interest but for mineralogists and geologists. The mines are still pro- ductive, but not in so great a degree as formerly. In 1768 there were 119 lead-mines wrought in the parish of Alston alone, but “the earth here scarcely produces anything, except from its bowels, and the people are subterraneous.” The extreme north-eastern part of Cumberland possesses scarcely any object of sufficient interest to attract a tourist. It is a dreary and desolate district. Bewcastle , 10 m. by the road from Gilsland Spa, and 7 over the moor, may be visited by an antiquary for the ruins of its castle and the cele- brated cross in the churchyard ; but only a very zealous archaeologist will probably be tempted to enter so wild and forbidding a region. The castle is said to have been a Roman station, and garrisoned by part of the Legio Secunda Augusta , Avhich was quartered in Cumberland to protect the workmen while build- ing the wall. It is now almost wholly in ruins, but part of its S. wall is standing, together with its W. turret. It was one of the many northern possessions of Richard Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Rich- ard IH., and a dark and gloomy fortress of the most barbarous order. In 1641 the castle was garrisoned by the king’s troops, but, having been besieged by Cromwell, was reduced to its present ruined state. On the summits of the adjacent hills are some remains of ancient British en- campments, the outlines of which may be easily discerned from a dis- tance on a clear day. The Cross, or obelisk, in the ch.-yard must be classed among the most curious and 108 Route 13. — Penrith to Amblesidc. interesting of Cumberland antiqui- ties. Its age is conjectured to be about the 9th cent. It is a mono- lith, about 15 ft. in height; at the top there was originally a cross, which has been broken off and lost. Many learned conjectures have been made with respect to the origin and meaning of this monument. By some it is supposed to have been the memo- rial of a Danish king slain in battle, or commemorative of a peace con- cluded between the English and the Danes. In one of the compartments is the figure of a man with a raven perched on his wrist. In another is the figure of a saint, in a sacerdotal habit, his head surrounded with a nimbus. On the top is an image of the Virgin and Child, both heads encircled with the nimbus. On the N. side is a great deal of ornamental work with an almost effaced inscrip- tion. Lord William Howard, of Na- worth, caused it to be carefully copied, and sent to Sir Henry Spel- man to interpret. The task being too hard for the great antiquary, he transmitted the copy to Wormius, Professor of History at Copenhagen, who declared that he could make nothing of it ; but the monument has been pronounced by Mr. Kemble, one of the highest authorities on Anglo- Saxon antiquities, to be unquestion- ably Anglo-Saxon.] EOUTE 13. PENRITH TO AMBLESIDE, BY POOLEY BRIDGE, ULLSWATER, PATTER- DALE, AND KIRKSTONE PASS. For description of the town of Penrith see Rte. 7. The principal objects of interest in its vicinity are — King Arthur's Bound Table and Mayborough , which are almost conti- guous, and may be visited on the road to Ullswater by Pooley Bridge, 1J m. from Penrith, the one on the 1. hand and the other on the rt. King Arthur's Bound Table is a circular plateau, surrounded by a ditch, with two approaches leading to it, butjhe purpose of the construc- tion is unknown. It has been con- jectured that it was intended for a jousting-place, or tilting-ground, but the moat seems to negative such a supposition. The place is evidently too small to have been used for tournaments, but it may have been designed for those exhibitions of single combat called holmegang by the Northmen, or the duel of the girdle, in which the combatants were prevented from running away by being buckled together by a girdle round their waists, and made to fight it out with their knives. It certainly was not designed for a place of strength. Some cuttings were made in it a few years ago, by the direction of Lord Brougham, but no discoveries were made. Close to the W. of the Bound Table, but on the opposite side of the road, is Mayborough, a circular en- closure, about 100 yds. in diameter, formed by a broad ridge of rounded stones heaped up to a height of 16 feet. The space thus enclosed is now 109 Eoute 13 . — encircled with trees, and in the centre is a large roughly-hewn stone. It is supposed to have been either a court of justice or a Druidical temple. It is said that many of the larger stones were taken away in the reign of Henry VI. for the repair of Penrith Castle. J a mile above the confluence of the Eamont with the Eden, and on the bank of the former river, is a species of grotto, cut out of the rock, and called Isis Parlis. According to popular tradition, it was the abode of a giant named Isis , who, like Cacus of old, seized men and cattle, and drew them into his den to devour them. It was probably formed for a place of refuge in times of disturb- ance, like the Wetheral Safeguards, as it once possessed iron gates. Excursions from Penrith may be made to Eden Hall (Sir George Mus- grave, Bart.) ; to the very striking Druidical remains, Long Meg and her Daughters ; to Nunnery , at the con- fluence of the Croglin with the Eden ; to Greystoke Castle, Brougham Hall , Brougham Castle, and Lowther Castle ; to Barley Bridge and TJllswater , 8 m. Eden Hall, 4 m. The mansion was built in 1824, from a design by Smirke, on the site of a former house, by Sir Philip Musgrave, the 8th Bart. It contains some good pic- tures, — one of Sir Philip Musgrave, a f -length, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, and considered one of his best specimens; another of Sir Philip’s eldest daughter, by the same master ; two of Sir John Chardin Mus- grave and his wife, by Hoppner, in his best manner ; a good portrait of Dorothy Lady Filmer, by Opie ; heads of George I., Lord Dartmouth, and Sir Chas. Musgrave, by Sir Peter Lely ; a f -length portrait of Sir Ch. Musgrave, by Sir G. Kneller ; a fine portrait of the 1st Sir P. Musgrave, commander of the Royal forces in the northern counties, ’Eden Kail . painted in Holland during his exile. There are also some good copies from Guido and Raphael, and some interiors and heads by Dutch art- ists unknown. The grounds slope down to the Eden, on the opposite bank of which is a well- timbered deer-park. The gardens are laid out with great taste. Sandford, in his account of Cumberland, 1670, gives the following description of Eden Hall: — “Upon the bank of this famous river stands the fair, fine, and beautiful palace, Eden Hall, orchards, and gardens, and none better for all fruit, delicate and plea- sant, with walks as fine as Chelsea fields , the fair river Eden gliding like the Thames along/’ At the end of the lawn is a public walk, called the Ladies’ Walk, extending for more than a mile along the bank of the river. Eden Hall is celebrated for an old enamelled drinking-glass called the Luck of Eden Hall , which is preserved by the family with almost superstitious care. The legend is. that the butler, going one day to the well in the park (St. Cuthbert's Well) to draw water, sur- prised a party of fairies dancing. He seized a glass which they had left at the brink of the well ; the fairies, after struggling to recover it, flew away, saying, “ If that glass either break or fall, Farewell the Luck of Edenlm!!/’ It is enamelled, and kept in a case of cuir bouilli, of the time of Henry IV. or V. It was formerly thought to be of Venetian manufacture, but it has been ascertained to be a very rare specimen of Oriental workmanship. It is not known how or when the family became possessed of the vessel. It has been the subject of a ballad by the Duke of Wharton (who, in his drunken revels, used to toss the cup into the air and catch it in its descent), and of one by Uhland, the German poet, which has been thus translated by Longfellow — 110 Route 18 . — Long Meg and Tier Daughters . The Luck of Edenhall. Of Edenhall the youthful Lord Bids sound the festal trumpet’s call, And rises at the banquet-board And cries ’mid the drunken revellers all, “ Now bring me the Luck of Edenhall.” The butler hears the word with pain ; The house’s oldest seneshal Takes slow from its silken cloth again The drinking cup of crystal tall ; They call it the Luck of Edenhall. Then said the Lord, “ This glass to praise Fill with red wine from Portugal ! ” The greybeard with trembling hand obeys ; A purple light shines over all, It beams from the Luck of Edenhall. Then speaks the Lord, and waves it light, “ This glass of flashing crystal tall Gave to my sire the Fountain-Sprite ; She wrote in it, ‘ If this glass do fall, Farewell, then, 0 Luck of Edenhall.’ “ ’Twas right a goblet the fate should be Of the joyous race of Edenhall ; Deep draughts drink we most willingly, And willingly ring, with merry call, Kling, klang, to the Luck of Edenhall. “ First rings it deep, and full, and mild, Like to the song of a nightingale ; Then like the roar of a torrent wild ; Then mutters at last like thunder’s fall The glorious Luck of Eddnhall ! “ For its keeper takes a race of might, The fragile goblet of crystal tall ; It has lasted longer than is right ; Kling, klang ! — with a louder blow than all Will I try the Luck of Edenhall ! ” As the goblet ringing flies apart, Suddenly cracks the vaulted hall ; And through the rift the wild flames start ; The guests in dust are covered all With the breaking Luck of Edenhall. In storms the foe, with fire and sword ; He in the night had scaled the wall ; Slain by the sword lies the youthful Lord, But holds in his hand the crystal tall, The shards of the Luck of Edenhall. On the morrow the butler gropes alone. The greybeard in the desert hall. He seeks hi3 lord’s burnt skeleton— He seeks in the dismal ruin’s fall The shards of the Luck of Edenhall. “ The stone wall,” saith he, “ doth fall aside, Down must the stately columns fall ; Glass is this earth’s Luck and Pride ; In atoms shall fall this earthly ball One day, like the Luck of Edenhall.” The Church is situated in the park, and was restored and beautified in 1834. The roof of the nave is in the Tudor style, the principal beams forming a trefoil arch, and the inter- stices of the framing are formed with pierced panellings : the span- drils of the beams bear shields and arms. The pulpit is a very good specimen of carving. The windows are richly painted, the E. window being in the E. Eng. style. The tower was built about 1450 by William Stapilton, then proprietor of the manor ; and it is supposed to have been used as a beacon, as it contains a fireplace. He gave the 3 bells dedicated to St. Cuthbert. There is a brass in the ch. in memory of the donor and his wife, Margaret de Veteripoint, Lady of Aldston Moor, who died 1484. There are marble monuments in the chancel of all the Musgrave baronets in suc- cession, from Sir Philip, the 2nd Bart., and to other members of the family. The chancel is ornamented in the mixed Norm, and Tudor styles. Long Meg and her Daughters . — One of the finest remains of the kind in England. The road from Eden Hall to Kirkoswald passes through this remarkable Druidical temple, consisting of 67 enormous unhewn stones, forming a circle 350 feet in diameter. It is pro- bably contemporary with Stone- henge and the circle near Keswick. The peculiarity of Long Meg and her Daughters consists in the stones being some of them limestone, some granite, and others greenstone. “ A weight of awe not easy to be borne Fell suddenly upon my Spirit, cast From the dread bosom of the unknown past, When first I saw that sisterhood forlorn, And her whose strength and stature seem’d to scorn The power of years, pre-eminent, and placed Apart to overlook the circle vast.”— Wordsworth. Long Meg, which stands about 30 paces without the circle, has four Ill Monte 1 3 . — Kirkoswald — Nunnery . faces* with their angles directed to the 4 cardinal points of the compass. It is 18 ft. high, 15 in girth, and is com- puted to weigh 16J tons. It is said by the country people that the stones cannot be counted twice alike, and that they are a company of witches transformed into stones on the prayer of some saint. No detached mass of rock larger than can be drawn on a single horse-sledge is now found in the neighbourhood. Kirkoswald , 2 m. from Long Meg, and 8 m. from Penrith, is situated in a fertile and beautiful vale. The remains of the castle are close to the town, on an eminence surrounded with trees. It has been an extensive fortress, and was protected by a fosse on three sides. Little of it remains but a square Norm, tower, with an arched doorway, a dungeon, and some crumbling walls. The moat is still well defined. It was once a noble castle, according to Sandford’s description of it (1670) : “ On the river Eden standeth the grand Castle of Kirkoswald, and a very fine church there, and a college. This great castle was once the fairest that ever was looked on. The hall I have seen, 100 yards long, and the great pourtraiture of King Brute (?), lying on the end of the roof of the hall, and of all his successors, Kings of England, pourtraited to the waist, their visages, hats, feathers, garbs, and habits, in the roof of the hall, now transferred to Na worth Castle, where they were placed in the roof of the hall/’ The castle was the ancient resi- dence of the Lords of Melton, and afterwards of the Dacres, from whom it descended to the Earl of Essex. Sir Hugh de Morville made it his residence, and enclosed the park. Sir Hugh was one of the murderers of Thomas a Beckett ; and the sword with which he slew the Primate was long preserved in this castle. Kirkoswald was burnt by the Scots in 1314, after the battle of Bannock- burn. In 1598 it suffered frightfully from the plague, of which 583 per- sons — two-thirds of the population — died. The Ch., dedicated to St. Oswald, has been restored and decorated at the expense of W. Atkinson, Esq., of Carlisle, who presented some hand- some memorial windows in remem- brance of the Dacre, Musgrave, and Featherstonhaugh families. It pos- sesses the peculiarity of having its tower and belfry detached on an adjoining hill, from which the bells can be heard at a great distance. Under the W. window is a well which is supplied by a rivulet flowing under the aisle of the ch. There are several monuments of the Feather- stonhaugh family. Nunnery , 2 m. from Kirkoswald, 10 m. from Penrith ( — Aglionby, Esq.). The ancient religious house was founded by William Eufus for a community of Benedictine nuns. Little remains of the original edifice, upon the site of which a modern mansion of red sandstone has been erected. The attraction of this place is the river scenery and the walks cut in the steep banks of the river Croglin, which rises among the Cross Fell or Pennine mountains, and runs 12 miles W.S.W. of the Eden, with which, after flowing through a finely wooded ravine, it forms a junction about j m. below Nunnery. No- thing can surpass the romantic beauty of this gloomy gorge, through which the Croglin falls in a series of cascades. The height of the sand- stone rocks, and the thickness of the foliage, admit but little light ; and the whole effect is singularly impressive. “ The floods are roused, and will not soon be weary ; Down from the Pennine Alps how fiercely sweeps Croglin, the stately Eden’s tributary ! He raves, or through some moody passage creeps, 112 Bouie 13 . — Sdllceld- Plotting new mischief. Out again he leaps Into broad light, and sends, through regions airy, That voice which soothed the nuns while on the steeps They knelt in prayer.” — Wordsworth. The opposite banks of the Croglin belong to Stafford Hall, and are laid out much in the same man- ner as those of Nunnery. The walks are continued until the junction of the river with the Eden, where the scenery is more open, but almost equally fine. A pathway has been formed for more than a mile along the banks of the Eden. In proceed- ing up the valley of the Croglin the scenery is perhaps even finer than at Nunnery. The name of the Crog- lin is derived from two British words, cureg, rock, and lyn, water. Return- ing to Penrith the route may be varied by proceeding through Lazonby, and over Penrith Fell. In the church- yard of Lazonby is an ancient cross. The views are exceedingly fine, in- cluding the valley of the Eden, the heights of Cross Fell, and, on ap- proaching Penrith, the woods of Lowther. Salkeld Bridge , 3 m., is remarkable for a singular combination of elliptic, semicircular, and pointed arches. Near Salkeld, in 1644, Sir Philip Musgrave and Sir Henry Fletcher were defeated by the Scotch army under Leslie. Salkeld was the birth- place of Edward Law, the first Lord Ellenborough. The Ch. is dedicated to St. Cutbbert, and has a strong em- battled tower, designed for a place of refuge. The massive door is plated with iron ; and under the aisle is a dungeon, or place of security. The nave is a rude but fine specimen of late Norm. Brougham Castle , 1J m. from Pen- rith, on the 1. bank of the Eamont, was one of the strongest and most important of the Border fortresses, but is now a ruin. The first —Brougham Castle. historical notice relating to it is in the reign of William the Con- queror, who granted it to his nephew Hugh de Albinois. His successor held it until 1170, when it came into the possession of Sir Hugh de Morville, and was forfeited to the Crown. It was afterwards granted by King John to a grand- son of Hugh, Robert de Yipont, who also forfeited it ; but it was restored to his daughters, co-heiresses, one of whom married a He Clifford. The first Roger Lord Clifford rebuilt, or greatly enlarged, the castle, over the inner gateway of which he placed the inscription, “ This made Roger.” Roger, his grandson, added the greater part of the E. side, and placed his arms, together with those of his wife, Maud Beauchamp, daughter of the Earl of Warwick, over the entrance. It remained in the Clifford family until it passed, by the marriage of a daughter of the celebrated Countess of Pembroke, to the Earl of Thanet. It has been a very magnificent structure. No place can exhibit more impressive remains of that gloomy strength for which these castles were remarkable, — arched vaults, winding- passages in the walls, so narrow as not to admit more than one person at once, doors contracted to a mere hole, through which no one could enter without stooping, and the re- mains of vast bolts and massive hinges, give a good idea of those times when a feudal lord was almost a prisoner in his own castle. The entrance is by a machicolated gate- way and tower. A short covered- way leads to another gateway, when the quadrangle is entered. The admirable masonry of the keep has preserved its outer walls from the decay which has befallen other parts of the castle. The whole of the interior is in ruins, with the exception of a vault, or dungeon. The floor of the chapel, which was over this part of the building, has fallen in ; the 118 Moute 13 . — Brougham Hall . arch of the E. window is broken; but some sedilia on the 1. remain tolerably perfect. Parts of the door- ways are in good preservation, as are also the mullions of the windows. An appearance of great strength pervades the whole ruin ; and the massive walls seem even now as if they would endure for centuries. The outer and inner gateway, the latter vaulted with groined arches, have both grooves for portcullises. Camden calls Brougham Castle the Brovoniacum of the Romans, and it is not improbable that the Homans had a fortress there, as the Roman causeway from Carlisle passed it. The castle suffered much from the incursions of the Scots in 1412 : in the reign of Henry IV. it was almost destroyed. Francis Earl of Cumber- land entertained James I. here for 3 days, in 1617, on his return from his progress into Scotland ; but the castle was afterwards suffered to fall into decay. In 1652 it was thoroughly repaired by the Dowager Countess of Pembroke, and she made it her principal residence. After her death it was again allowed to go to ruin; and in 1728 the greater part of it was demolished, and the most valuable portion of its materials sold. A little to the S. of Brougham Castle is a lofty stone obelisk called Countess’s Pillar. It was- erected in 1636 by the Countess Anne Clifford, to commemorate her final parting with her mother on the spot where the pillar stands. It is orna- mented with dials and armorial quarterings, and bears an inscription. Brougham Hall (Lord Brougham), 1J m. from Penrith, is built on a natural terrace on the bank of the Lowther, in a charming situ- ation, and commands varied and extensive prospects. The property was an ancient possession of the Brougham family, and was, in 1727, repurchased by John Brougham, Esq., the grandfather of the late ex- chancellor Lord Brougham, from its then proprietor, Mr. Bird. While in his possession it was called “Bud’s Nest.” The Hall is a castellated mansion, and was originally fortified, as all mansions on the border were. Portions of it are as old as 1st Edw. II., when a licence to crenellate was given to R. M. Brum. A con- siderable part was rebuilt in 1829 and 1840. The staircase and library, though modern, are in perfect keep- ing with the old building, and the result of the whole, with panelled walls, fretted roofs, carved work in wood, much of it executed on the spot, is to render the house one of the handsomest and most pleasing residences in the north. The an- cestors of Lord Brougham were lords of the manor upwards of 600 years ago; but in the reign of Edw. III. the manor was sold. The family of Brougham is of Saxon descent, and derives its surname from Burgham, afterwards called Brougham, the Brovacum of the Romans. The ap- proach to the Hall is through a gate- way leading into a quadrangle. The entrance-hall, which is occasionally used as a dining-room, is decorated with old armour and stained glass ; and on the buffet is a profusion of gold and silver plate, which, with the gorgeous windows, give to the hall, although it is far from being spacious, a very splendid appearance. There is under a glass-case on the buffet the skull of Edouardus de Burgham, a crusader (1185), which was taken out of a tomb in Brougham ch. The sword of Udard de Brogam (1185), disinterred from the neighbouring ch., is also here. All the rooms well merit close attention, from their singularly fine oak carvings and tapestry. The carved-oak bedsteads are splendid specimens of workmanship, and in keeping with the other antique furniture. The corridor is painted 114 Route 13 .—Lowther Castle . in imitation of the Bayenx tapestry. There are a few good pictures in the library and drawing-room, and some family portraits ; one by Hogarth. Two purses in which the great seal was carried by the late Lord Broug- ham when Lord Chancellor have been ingeniously converted into draw- ing-room screens. The Chapel especially deserves no- tice for its singularly fine carved-oak fittings and stained-glass windows. Over the altar are carvings of the 15th centy. ; one of Christ bearing the Cross, and the other the Cruci- fixion. The grounds belonging to the Hall command fine views. A circular thatched summer-house, with mossy seats, contains the inscription, — “ Beneath these mossgrown roofs, this rustic cell, Truth, Liberty, Content sequestered dwell ; Say, you who dare our hermitage disdain, What drawing-room can boast so fair a train? ” Lowther Castle (5 m. from Penrith) (the Earl of Lonsdale). This mag- nificent structure, which is shown every day but Sunday, is situated on the rt. bank of the Lowther. It is built of a light rose-tinted freestone, which, contrasted with the deep green of the woods surrounding it, produces a very pleasing effect. It is modern Gothic, designed by Smirke, but without any true under- standing of the real character of domestic style, and it presents to the N. a castellated, to the S. a Gothic front. The approach is from the N., by an arched gateway, with a porter’s lodge, from which an em- battled wall extends E. and W., and encloses the entrance court. A hand- some flight of steps leads to the grand entrance. The N. front is 420 ft. in length, and has 40 turrets. The views are as different from the two fronts as the character of the fronts themselves. The S. presents a beautiful but contracted lawn, terminated by the park woods : the prospects from the N. front are extensive, ranging over a wide extent of fell, forest, and moun- tain. The whole appearance of the castle is that of palatial mag- nificence. The terrace-walk, 90 ft. in breadth and 400 ft. in length, is perhaps the greatest attraction, the views from it being unsur- passed in Westmorland. Tourists, in general, see little of the beauty of the grounds, being satisfied with the view from the terrace; but the whole course of the Lowther, from Askham to the bridge under Brougham Hall, should be explored, presenting as it does, almost at eyery turn, some new and charming combination of river and woodland scenery. The Entrance Hall of the castle is decorated with ancient armour and modern arms. In the Corridor there are some remarkably fine oak carvings and mosaics. Pictures. The Study contains choice specimens of Ostade , Vander- woof Wouvermans , Teniers , and Gerard Dow ; a picture of Christ and the Tribute-money, by Valen- tino ; Soldiers quarrelling at Dice, by the same master ; and a picture of the Earl of Dorset, by Vandyck. Breakfast-Boom. — A fine Holy Fa- mily, by Bubens; the Finding of Moses, by Titian ; Charity, by Van- dyck; a Virgin and Child, by Sasso- ferrato ; the Oyster Supper, by Jan Steen ; and specimens of Teniers and Wouvermans. Drawing-Boom. — The Ascension, by Paul Veronese ; the Slave-market, by Zucharelli ; and a portrait of Pitt, by Hoppner. Small Drawing-Boom. —Lady Mary Lowther, by Opie: the Adoration, by Bassano ; and a fine Landscape, by Poussin. Boudoir. — St. John preaching in the Wilderness, by Salvator Bosa ; and a Landscape, by Poussin . 115 Route 13 . — Haweswater —Mar dale. The Library contains numerous family portraits. Staircase. — A full-length portrait, by Titian; St. Francis kneeling in prayer, by Guido Beni ; a Landscape, by Albert Cuyp ; Landscape, by Decker ; Portrait of a Spanish General, by Titian ; Ceres, by Giorgioni ; a Boy, by Murillo ; St. Jerome, by Salvator Bosa; the Magdalen, by Tintoretto; Portrait of a Venetian nobleman, by the same master ; Belisarius, by Bern - brandt ; a party of Men and Women, by Paul Veronese . A Gallery is exclusively appro- priated to portraits of eminent per- sons, natives of Westmorland ; an- other gallery is filled with pictures, principally early and rough works by Hogarth. This gallery also con- tains fine pictures by Snyders , boar- hunts, &c., removed from White- haven Castle ; and the infant Christ and St. John, by Leonardo da Vinci. The Gallery of Sculpture and An- tiquities is unequalled as a private collection by any in the kingdom, and abounds in Greek and Roman statuary, ancient tombs, and mural tablets. Askham f on the Lowther, at a short distance from the Castle, is an ancient castellated Hall, the pictur- esque seat of the Ven. S. Jackson, Provost of Queen’s College, Oxford. Before he leaves Penrith the tourist should visit Haweswater , the least known, and perhaps, with the ex- ception of Ennerdale, the least visited of all the lakes. Distance from Pen- rith, 9 m. ; Lowther, 2 m. This lake, which has been called a lesser Ullswater, is the property of the Earl of Lonsdale, and is 2J m. long and ^ m. broad. There is a boat kept, the use of which may be ob- tained on application to the steward at Lowther Castle ; the boatman re- sides near the lake. The eastern bank is clothed with wood (Naddle Forest) of no great size, but giving softness to the scenery. The moun- tain group at the bend of the lake is strikingly fine ; Harter Fell, High Street, Kidsty Pike, towering over it in great grandeur. The want of a good inn deters tourists from taking more than a hasty view of this lake, although the glens and passes of the upper part of the valley are well wor- thy of exploration. Trout, char, and skellies abound in the lake ; but per- mission to fish it must be obtained from the steward of the Earl of Lons- dale. The char are smaller than in the other lakes. Mardale Green (Inn: The Dun Bull, a humble village public-house, with poor accommodation). [From Mardale the pedestrian may proceed to Troutbeck, or Stavely, a stat. on the Windermere rly., by one of the passes above Mar- dale. The distance from Mardale Green to the public-house at Trout- beck is 6 m. High Street, 2633 ft., over which the Roman road to Penrith ran, and portions of which may yet be traced along its summit, may be reached from Mardale Head, taking the path to Small Water, lying directly under the steep side of High Street; a steep and rugged climb, but amply rewarded by the view from the summit. The top is an extensive table-land. On one side is Trout- beck ; on the other the Penrith plains. The descent into Troutbeck abounds in charming prospects. A guide for this route would be necessary. To enter the valley of Kentmere, through which there is a road to Stavely , proceed over the fine pass of Nan Bield. The little tarn Small Water is passed on the 1. At the Chapel, about 3 m. further on, the road widens, and leads direct to Stavely. Kentmere Hall, an ancient building with a square tower, the birthplace of Bernard Gilpin (born 1517), the Apostle of the North, is passed a little distance to the rt. 116 Boute 13 . — Pooley There is another Pass (Gatesgarth) into Long Sleddale to Kendal, 14 m. ; the road turns off to the 1. about 1 m. from Mardale Green. “ This valley is not one of the grandest character ; but it has the advantage of being thoroughly free from the in- trusion of art. There is nothing to mar its harmony ; and while passing along the narrow lanes enclosed by thickly-lichened walls, tufted with wild-flowers, the eye rests on the brilliant green of the meadows, the sparkling purity of the stream, or the autumnal tints of the copses, we acknowledge it to be a genuine and lovely specimen of natural scenery. The upper portion of the dale is bleak and sterile, but the scenery improves as the descent is made/' — Wordsworth. The geologist will ex- amine with interest a narrow band of limestone which crosses this valley, the shales of which abound with lower Silurian fossils. It will be found near the junction of 2 small mountain-streams which pass down the lateral vale in which is situated the hamlet of Little London. The slate-quarries at Bangle Ghyll, near the head of the dale, produce a fine blue slate, and are worth a visit.] Pooley Bridge , 5 m. (Inns: Sun; Crown : both small, but comfortable and reasonable): a Post Office. A steam yacht plies on Ullswater ; the place of embarkation is 1 m. from Pooley Bridge. The coach takes passengers to the steamer, which makes the passage to Patterdale and back in about 3 hrs. 3 times a day. Boats may also be hired at Pooley Bridge for excursions on the lake. A stone bridge spans the Eamont immediately below its efflux from the lake. Large quantities of eels are taken from the Eamont below the bridge on their migrating from the lake in autumn. There are fine views of Ulls- water from the rising ground just above Pooley Bridge. A geologist Bridge — Ullswater . may find a visit to Mell Fell, a hill 1657 ft. high, distant 3 m., interesting. It is formed of a con- glomerate of rounded stones of vari- ous sizes bound together by a fer- ruginous calcareous cement. There are several lesser elevations of the same character, which extend to the foot of Ullswater. The pebbles are apparently fragments of older rocks rounded by attrition, and must have been transported from some distance, as they do not belong to the rocks of the neighbourhood ; they have been assigned to the old red sandstone period. The junction of the sandstone and limestone may be seen in a quarry near Greystock. Ullswater , the grandest, although not the largest of the English lakes, should always be approached from the E., for if it is first seen from the op- posite end it may create temporary disappointment. A road from Pooley Bridge to Patterdale, 10 m., passes along its W. shore. Ullswater has been called a miniature Lucerne. It consists of 3 reaches, the northern one being the shortest ; but the whole length of the lake is only 9 m. It varies in breadth, and has an average depth greater than any of the other lakes. It is unquestion- ably the one which combines the greatest variety of attractions ; por- tions of its banks possessing the sylvan beauty of Windermere, while the mountain masses at its head are scarcely inferior in grandeur to those of Wastwater. Cumberland, who wrote in the last century, thus apostrophises it : — “ Thee, savage Thirlmere, now I hail ; Delicious Grasmere’s calm retreat, And stately Windermere I greet, And Keswick’s sweet fantastic vale ; But let her naiads yield to thee And lowly bend the subject knee — Imperial lake of Patterdale ! For neither Scottish Lomond’s pride, Nor smooth Killarney’s silver tide, N or aught that learned Poussin drew, ’ Or dashing Rosa flung upon my view, Shall shake thy sovereign undisturbed right,' Great scene of wonder and supreme delight !” Route 13 . — Patter dale — Martindale . 117 The wooded hill to the rt. of Pooley Bridge, Dunmallet, or Dunmallard, is supposed to have been so named from its having been the resort of the wild fowl with which Ulls water once abounded; but more probably derived from the Norse Dun Mai, or parley hill, in commemoration of some negotiation having taken place on it between two opposing chiefs. The best view of the lake, as a whole, is to be obtained by taking the steamer from Pooley Bridge to Patterdale; on the rt. is Waterfoot (Capt. Salmon), on the 1. Swarth Fell is first seen, and on the rt. Little Mell Fell, while directly in front is Martindale Hause. Further on to the rt. is Halstead (W. Marshall, Esq.); after passing which the steamer enters the little bay of How Town, where it takes in and disembarks passengers. The mountains at the head of the lake now begin to de- velop themselves, and the scenery gradually rises in sublimity. Catche- decam, or more properly Catstycam, one of the peaks of Helvellyn, now opens out, but the true summit is more to the 1. To the rt. are seen Gowbarrow Park and Lyulph’s Tower, a shooting seat belonging to the Howard family. On doubling the last promontory to the 1., Pat- terdale is seen and the grounds of Patterdale Hall. The island, with a few firs on it, is called Duke’s Island. Glencoin valley, on the rt., divides Cumberland from Westmorland. A little beyond is the Ullswater Hotel, opposite which is the mooring-place for the steamer. Patterdale {Inns: the Ullswater Hotel ; Patterdale Hotel, both good). The Ullswater Hotel is close to the lake and the landing-place for the steamer, but conveyances are always in waiting to take passengers on to the Patterdale Hotel, about a mile from the lake. The mountain which ap- pears to rise directly behind the Ulls- water Hotel is St. Sunday’s Crag, which conceals the lofty peaks of Helvellyn. The conical hill directly over Patterdale is Hartsop Fell. Although Ullswater is much visit- ed, and its two hotels are generally well filled, there are very few lodg- ing-houses in the neighbourhood, and the scenery may therefore be enjoyed in comparative seclusion. The mountain glens are very beauti- ful. The vales of Glencoin, Glen- ridding, and Griesdale possess some of the most interesting scenery of the Lake district. In Patterdale the botanist will find Polypodium phegopteris ; and behind the hotel, in moist ground, Anagallis tenella, Parnassia palustris, Dnosera rotundi- flora, and Sphagnum palustre. The lake should be also viewed from its E. shore, but there is no carriage- road from Pooley Bridge beyond How Town. A pedestrian taking this route to Patterdale should pro- ceed by the steamer as far as How Town {Inn: the Stag, small but comfortable), and after ascending Hallen Fell, from whence is one of the finest views of the lake, and where a pillar has been erected in honour of Lord Brougham, proceed through Sandwick by a path just above the lake to Blowiek, passing under Birk Fell and Place Fell. The scenery throughout the whole of this route is truly magnificent. The path is in some places narrow and steep, and requires wary walking. The high road is entered a little beyond Blowiek, a farmhouse ; and passing the bridge to the rt. over the Gold- rill Beck leads direct to Patterdale. From How Town Martindale may be visited. It is a fine valley, extending to the base of Kidsty Pike. The forms of the hills are highly picturesque, presenting that pyramidal contour, with smooth green slopes, which characterises so many of the mountains in the Lake district. A lateral valley to 118 Route 13 . — LyuljpJi s the rt. leads to the Pass of Boar- dale, a steep and rugged ascent, im- practicable except for pedestrians ; the descent on the other side by Hartsop is equally rough and pre- cipitous. Martindale Forest still con- tains red deer, which are occasionally hunted by the lord of the manor. In former days the tenants were bound to assist in turning the game on the tops of the mountains towards the forest ; they were to come on summons from the manor court, and if they did not appear they were fined. Lyidph’s Tower. The name is derived from Lyulphus, an Anglo- Saxon noble said to have been killed there. It is a modern ivy-clad cas- tellated building, 3 m. from Patter- dale, and 100 yds. above the lake, and is fitted up as a hunting and shooting seat. In the park the lover of nature might linger for hours. “Here are beds of luxuriant fern, aged hawthorns, and hollies decked with honeysuckles, and fallow-deer bounding over the lawns and through the thickets; these are the attrac- tions of the retired views, and con- stitute a foreground for the ever- varying pictures of the lake.” • — Wordsworth. One of the finest views of Ullswater is to be had from the high grounds of Gowbarrow Park, and it would be difficult to specify any lake scenery in Europe that on the whole surpasses that of the upper reach of Ullswater. The views are somewhat stem, but are without the solemnity of Thirl- mere, and the gloom of Wastwater. Ullswater, seen on a bright day with its broad expanse of water sparkling in the sun, combines, indeed, the brilliancy of Windermere with the beauty of Derwentwater. Ara Force , one of the most beautiful waterfalls of the district, is approached by a path across Gowbarrow park. It is in a deep winding glen, and, although not so lofty as Stock Ghyll Force, at Ambleside, it surpasses it in Tower — Ara Force . pictorial attractions. A guide can be procured from Lyulph’s Tower. The water falls 80 feet perpendicularly through a chasm. At the top it is divided by a narrow ledge into two streams, which unite before they have fallen half way down, and are dashed against a projecting rock, and it then becomes a gradually expanding sheet of foam. If the fall is full a cloud of spray rises and drops into the chasm, from which it issues again a transparent stream. A cir- cuitous path leads to the top of the chasm. Ara Force is the scene of the tale which Wordsworth has made the sub- ject of his beautiful poem the ‘ Som- nambulist : ’ — • “ List ye who pass by Lyulph’s tower At eve, how softly then Doth Ara Force, that torrent hoarse, Speak from the woody glen ! i Fit music for a solemn vale ! And holier seems the ground To him who catches on the gale The spirit of a mournful tale Embodied in the sound.” Ascent of Helvellyn . — Ponies and guides can be procured from either of the hotels. Helvellyn is 3118 ft. high, being 59 ft. higher than Skid- daw, and 90 ft. lower than Scawfell Pike. The mass of the mountain is composed of clay-slate, occasionally exhibiting veins of syenite and por- phyry. The ascent and descent from the Ullswater Hotel occupy about 3 hours. The route by Glen- ridding has one advantage ; a pony, if led by a guide, may be ridden nearly to the top. The route is a cart-road as far as the smelting-works of the Greenside lead-mine, thence a bridle- path; the track then bends south- wards, and the Catstycam, a high hill with a conspicuous peak, which is joined to the highest part of Helvellyn by the Swirrel Edge, comes in sight, with Bed Tarn Beck flowing down the boggy ground in its front to meet the Keppel Cove Beck. A little above the junction of the becks the track divides ; one 119 Boute 13 . — Ascent of Helvellyn . path continuing along the valley to Keppel Tarn : the Helvellyn path, turning to the rt., ascends to the crest of the ridge, passes over Little Helvellyn, crosses a col, the head of a combe above Thirlmere, sweeps round the head of Keppel Cove, and ascends to the summit. If the as- cent is made by Glenridding it is recommended that the descent should be by Griesdale Tarn and Griesdale. Another and perhaps more inter- esting ascent is by way of Griesdale. The grand mountain mass breaks upon the view on first entering the Griesdale valley. The vale of Gries- dale runs up from Patterdale to the very heart of Helvellyn, and sepa- rates the hill to be ascended from the heights of St. Sunday’s Crag and Fair- field. There is a tolerable road for about half the distance, as far as the summit of a ridge that runs up by the N. side of Griesdale Beck, and leads to the head of the mountain. Having surmounted this ridge, there are two ways of getting to the top, — the shortest is along the ridge called Striding Edge. This ridge has ac- quired a sort of celebrity in conse- quence of the supposed danger of passing along it, but the peril is in a great degree imaginary. There is quite sufficient width for a firm footing, and it is only to persons of weak nerves or unsteady heads that it can present any difficulty, and by such it certainly should not be at- tempted. The other way to the top is to descend a little on the other side of the ridge and take the path which leaves Bed Tarn on the 1. This tarn lies at a higher elevation than any of the mountain tarns, being 2356 ft. above the level of the sea. Its lonely situation under the dark precipice of Helvellyn is very impressive. “ Thither the rainbow comes, the cloud, The mists that spread the flying shroud ; The sunbeams, and the sounding blast, Which, if it could, would hurry past, But that enormous barrier binds it fast.” This is the scene of the touch- ing incident of a dog being found watching the remains of his master, a young tourist who, three months previously, is supposed to have fallen over the precipice when at- tempting to cross Striding Edge. A steep climb from the tarn of a few hundred feet places the tourist on top of Helvellyn. The summit is a smooth, grassy, or rather mossy, plain, which dips gently to the W., but with abrupt precipices to the E. There are two piles of stone distant about ^ m. from each other. The views on a clear day are surpass- ingly fine,— • “ A record of commotion, Which a thousand ridges yield ; 3 Ridge, and gulf, and distant Ocean Gleaming like a silver shield.” Skiddaw, Saddleback, and Scawfell stand out conspicuously among the mountain groups. To the W. is the wildest and finest portion of the scenery of Cumberland and West- morland. Six of the lakes are visi- ble— Ullswater for almost its whole length, a considerable portion of Win- dermere, Esthwaite, Coniston, Bas- senthwaite, and Thirlmere. Derwent- water is hidden by Borrowdale Fells, and Crummock and Wastwater by intervening mountains. The estu- aries of the Kent, Leven, Duddon, and Esk, Solway Firth, the Scotch mountains, and the Northumbrian and Yorkshire hills are conspicuous. The Isle of Man is well defined on a clear day, and it is said that even the German Ocean has been occa- sionally faintly distinguished on the eastern horizon. On the W. side of the mountain, and between 300 and 400 yards below its summit, is a spring called Brown- rigg Well, with a temperature in the height of summer rarely exceeding 40°. A stream flows from it down the side of Helvellyn to Wythbum. On Helvellyn will be found Saxi- fraga stellaris, S. hirculus, S. hy- proides, Chrysosplenium oppositafo- 120 Boute 13 . — Descent of Helvellyn. lium, Oxyria reniformis, Bhodiola rosea, Alcliemilla vulgaris, Armeria maistima (on summit), Alchemilla alpina, Caltha radicans, Cystopleris fragilis, Saxifraga nivalis, Bhodiola rosea or roseroot, Salix herbacea ; at the top, Juncas triglumis ; on the W. side, Silene aeaulis; and in springs, Cochlearia cordata and Oxyria reni- formis; and that rarest and most lovely of British flowers the Moss Campion (Silene aeaulis), in Gries- dale Pass. In addition to the usual routes for descending Helvellyn, those fond of excitement may, if provided with alpenstocks, descend the face of the mountain towards Keppel Cove, but it is impracticable for ladies. After a few feet of smooth turf, an almost perpendicular wall of granite and debris from the mountain is reached. A sure foot and ready eye after some 300 ft. of descent will bring the cragsman over this to Keppel Cove, whence the path into Patterdale is easy and well defined. Before he quits Patterdale the tourist should explore Deepdale , lying under the precipices of Fairfield. Deepdale Beck Bridge must be crossed on the rt. of the Kirkstone road. The dale is almost treeless, and is terminated by a combe, a gloomy abyss with precipitous sides, “ a receptacle of the winter snows which are driven into it by winds from the summit of Fairfield.” The other valleys opening on the lake should be explored if not previously visited on the way to Helvellyn. The Griesdale valley leads to the pass into Grasmere (Bte. 3), and should be ascended at least as far as Griesdale Tarn. Glenridding has been much injured in a picturesque point of view by the lead-mines, which have not only impaired the beauty of this se- questered valley, but contaminated the water of the lake by the white muddy streams, impregnated with mining refuse, which they send into it. In Glencoin an artist might linger for weeks, and find innu- merable tempting subjects for his pencil. A pedestrian desirous of proceed- ing to Keswick from Ullswater may take the short route over the fells by Dockwray to Threlkeld, at the entrance of the Yale of St. John, striking off the high road from Lyulph’s Tower ; or by another route through Glenridding, by Bleaberry Fell, Legberthwaite, and Thirlmere (p. 66). Patterdale to Ambleside, 10 m. — There is no public conveyance to Ambleside, but there is a coach daily to Windermere Stat. and Bowness. The road, which is level for 3 m., passes through cultivated meadows and shady lanes, with Goldrill Beck on the 1. On the 1. is a small stream, which flows from Angle Tarn., and which is seen as a cascade on the hill-side. Lower Hartsop , 2 m., a small hamlet on the 1. From this there is a mountain path into Martindale. The descent is very rough and preci- pitous, but a pony may be led down with safety. The view looking down into Martindale is very striking, but few cross this pass unless with the object of exploring the least known scenery of the Lake district. The distance from Hartsop to How Town, on Ullswnter, is 5 m. Kayes Water , a considerable tarn and a favourite with anglers, is above Hartsop on the 1. It lies under the N.W. side of High Street. There is a rough road to it, chiefly used for the conveyance of peat from the fells. The stream which flows from Hayes Water passes Lower Hartsop. Brothers' Water , a small lake 3 m. from Patterdale, on the 1. of the road to Ambleside, possesses consider- able beauty. It is fed by the streams which rise on Bed Screes, the lofty mountain mass which crowns the pass of Kirkstone on the rt. This 121 Route 14 .— Penrith sheet of water is seen to greater advantage by looking down upon it from the height of Kirkstone than from the road which runs by its brink. It is said to have received its name from two brothers having been drowned in it. The ancient name of the lake, however, was Broaderwater, of which its present name may be only a corruption. The ascent of Kirkstone Pass commences from the head of Bro- thers’ Water, and a more desolate track can scarcely be conceived. A good carriage-road, in places, how- ever, very steep, leads to the top of the pass. Masses of rock which have been detached by winter frosts from the heights above, seem sus- pended midway in their fall, and threaten at any moment to com- plete their descent to the bottom. Shortly before reaching the top the remarkable rock is seen on the rt., which, from its resemblance at a dis- tance to a church or kirk, has given to the pass its name. Wordsworth’s ‘ Ode on the Kirkstone Pass ’ is very descriptive of the scene : — “ Within the mind strong fancies work, A deep delight the bosom thrills, Oft as I pass along the fork Of these fraternal hills ; Where, save the rugged road, we find No appanage of human kind, Nor hint of man ; if stone or rock Seem not his handiwork to mock By something conizably shaped ; Mockery— or model roughly hewn, And left as if by earthquake strewn, Or from the flood escaped ; Altars for Druid service fit (But where no fire was ever lit, Unless the glowworm to the skies Thence offer nightly sacrifice) ; Wrinkled Egyptian monument ; Green moss-grown tower, or hoary tent ; Tents of a camp that never shall be raised, — On which four thousand years have gazed !” The Inn at the top of the pass is 1468 feet above the level of the sea, and 977 above Patterdale, and is said to be the highest inhabited house in England. From the inn to Amble- \_Westm. & Climb .] to Kirkby-Lonsdale . side, 4 m. (Rte. 3.), the descent is almost continuous. The road to the 1., just beyond the inn, leads to the Troutbeck Valley, Low Wood, Win- dermere, and Bowness. As Amble- side is approached, the woods of Rydal Park, Loughrigg, and the pleasing scenery around the town, form a grateful contrast to the wild- ness and desolation of Kirkstone. ROUTE 14. PENRITH TO APPLEBY, BROUGH KIRKBY- STEPHEN, AND KIRKBY - LONSDALE— RAIL, Skirting the woods of Lowther Castle, the Lancashire and Carlisle Rly. joins the Eden Valley line at 4 m. Clifton , said to have been so called from two remarkable cliffs above which it stands on the E. side of the Lowther, one composed of lime, the other of sandstone, J m. from the ch., and called Cat Scar, from the number of wild cats that formerly frequented it. 3J m. Cliburn Station , a well- wooded, picturesque country, with Wliinfell Forest on the 1. If m. Temple Sowerby. The rly. crosses the Eden near the stat. The district is noted for its agricultural richness, and its attractive but quiet scenery. Pleasant glimpses of the Eden are caught from time to time on the rt. of the rly. If m. KirUby-Thore. Near the highway between this place and Crackenthorpe, to the S. of the old Roman road, are the remains of an G 122 Route 14 . — Appleby. extensive Boman camp, and at a short distance from them is a small fort or outwork called Maiden Hold — probably one of the guard-houses or watch-towers of the Maiden Way. Kirkby-Thore is said to have been go called from the former existence of a Pagan temple dedicated to the Saxon deity Thor. 6 m. Appleby , the county town of Westmorland, Pop. 1500 {Inns: King’s Head ; Crown ; and Mitre), is beautifully situated on the 1. bank of the Eden, which is crossed by a handsome stone bridge. The situa- tion is low, and the hill above the town is crowned by the venerable castle half hidden amidst woods. The banks of the Eden are here richly timbered, and give a very picturesque character to the town. It is said to have been formerly of much greater extent ; a place called Burrals, now 1 m. distant, being a corruption of Borough Walls. The principal object of interest is the Castle, which is approached by the principal street, built on the slope of the hill on which the castle stands. On entering the lodge gates, the grand keep, or Caesar’s Tower (80 ft. high), is seen in its lofty proportions. The castle is said by Camden to have been originally the Aballaba of the Bomans, but apparently without suf- ficient authority. The Aballaba of the Notitia is near the town of Brampton in Cumberland, on the Boman road leading to Carlisle, and in the fifth iter of Antoninus no mention is made of any station at Appleby. The first notice of the castle occurs in 1088, when William the Conqueror gave to the abbey of St. Mary’s, York, the churches of St. Lawrence and St. Michael, describ- ing them as belonging to his castle of Appleby : there was therefore a castle at Appleby at that date, and the castles of Brough, Appleby, Pen- dragon, and Brougham, are believed to have all been built by Bandulph de Meschines, to whom William granted a considerable tract in West- morland. The keep is traditionally called Csesar’s Tower, but why this tower, evidently of Norman origin and Norman workmanship, should have obtained that designation, it is difficult to understand. The work- manship of the walls is not, however, of that excellence which generally characterises castles of the Norman period. The wall that now divides the square of the keep into two compart- ments was built by the Countess of Pembroke in 1651, and at one time there was a brass plate in the wall, recording that fact, together with the general repair of the castle, by Ann, Baroness Clifford, after it had lain ruinous and uncovered from the year 1559. The lowest chamber in Csesar’s Tower was formerly used as the county prison. The fortress is surrounded with a double moat: the inner and deeper one is now laid out in shrubbery walks. The mansion contains some pictures of historical interest. The portraits include one of the celebrated Coun- tess of Pembroke, and several of the Clifford, Bedford, and Thanet fa- milies. A large picture of George Earl of Cumberland and his wife hangs in the hall, and any one de- sirous of seeing it would be readily admitted for the purpose. In the re- bellion of 1641 Lady Ann Clifford strongly garrisoned, the castle for the King, and gave the command of it to Sir Philip Musgrave, who held it until after the battle of Marston Moor. It was again held by the Boyalists for a short time in 1648. It was one of the principal resi- dences of Ann, Dowager Countess of Pembroke, Dorset, and Montgomery, whose memory is still held in ve- neration throughout the North of England. She was the daughter of George Clifford, Earl of Cumberland, who distinguished himself in several naval engagements. She first mar- ried Lord Buckhurst, afterwards Earl 123 Route 14 .- of Dorset, and, on his death, Philip Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery. She inherited the vast estates of the Clifford family, and, retiring to the North of England after the death of her second husband, spent the re- mainder of her life in the country, residing in her numerous castles by turns. All suffered more or less during the civil war, but her fortune was so considerable that she was able to repair and refurnish them all ; and over the gate of each she placed an inscription, ‘‘This castle was repaired by the Lady Ann Clif- ford, Countess Dowager of Pembroke, after the main part of it had lain ruinous ever since 1648, when it was demolished almost to the ground by the Parliament then sitting at West- minster, because it had been a gar- rison in the civil war. Laus Deo.” Her friends tried to persuade her that her work would be in vain, for that as fast as she rebuilt her castles Cromwell would demolish them ; to which she replied, “ While he leaves me a shilling, I will rebuild what he throws down the next day.” This speech having been reported to Crom- well, he is said to have replied, “ Nay, let her build as she will ; she shall have no hindrance from me.” Appleby has always been distin- guished for its loyalty. On the coro- nation of Charles II., “ there were as many bonfires in the town as houses, and a stately scaffold was erected, hung with cloth of arras and gold, whither, after divine service, the Countess of Pembroke, with the mayor, aldermen, and all the other gentry of the county, ascended to the music of trumpets, with a crown of gold carried before them, when they prayed for, and drank to, the health of the king on their knees.” The family of Clifford became extinct on the death of the Countess of Pembroke, and, her daughter and sole heiress hav- ing married the Earl of Thanet, the Clifford estates passed into the pos- session of the Tufton family. ~ Brough The Church , which has been re- stored, is in the Perp. style of the 14th centy., with clustered columns. In the chancel is an ancient piscina. The only remarkable objects are the fine altar-tombs of the Countess of Pembroke, who died at Brougham Castle 1675, and Margaret, Dowager Countess of Cumberland, her mother, both recumbent effigies in marble. The epitaph on the Countess of Cumberland was probably written by her daughter. In the ch.-yard is a tombstone re- cording the deaths of a grandfather, father, and son ; the first 109, the second 86, and the third 101 years of age. 4} m. War cop Stat. The rly. pursues the course of the Eden, of which there are several pleasing views. It crosses it at 2 m. Great Musgrove, by a viaduct. The little ch. of Musgrove is seen on the 1., with a pretty view up the Eden. [Brough (pronounced Bruff), 2 m. from Musgrove Stat. Pop. 1300. {Inn : the Castle.) The great West- morland horse and cattle fair is held on the 30th of September and the 1st of October, on a hill 2 m. from the town. The town is pleasantly situated under the Hellbeck Fells. The Hell- beck, a tributary of the Eden, runs through the town, and the Swindall forms a junction with it a little below. Many Roman coins have been found in the neighbourhood. The place has been identified as the Roman station Yeterrse. The Castle , J m. from the town, is a grand ruin ; the walls of the great keep are almost perfect. The re- mains of this once important fortress stand on a hill with very steep banks. On one side it was protected by the river, and on the other by a deep moat. The castle was partially 124 Route 14 . — Brough Castle. destroyed by fire in 1521, but was repaired in 1660 by the Countess of Pembroke, who made it her oc- casional residence. It was partially pulled down by Thomas Earl of Thanet in 1695, who used the materials for the repairs of the castle of Appleby. The walls of the great square tower, called Caesar’s Tower, remained perfect until 1792, when the lower part of the S.E. corner gave way, and left the upper part with no other support than the cement of the parallel wall. About the same time an urn containing a large quantity of Roman silver coins was found while digging the founda- tions of a house in the vicinity of the castle. The ruin has suffered on the whole less from time than from that Vandal indifference to the past which has, in so many instances, led to the destruction of buildings of great historical interest to provide mate- rials for modem erections. The ma- sonry of the round tower at the S.E. angle is apparently more recent than that of other portions of the building. The square tower has some herring- bone work in its walls. The position of the castle is commanding, and it must have been a place of great strength. The view from the walls will repay a visit. Twelfth-night, or Holly-night, was formerly celebrated at Brough by carrying through the town a holly- tree with torches attached to its branches. The procession set out at 8 o’clock preceded by music, and stopped and cheered at the bridge, and again at the cross. The proces- sion then divided into two parties, one of which endeavoured to take the tree to one of the inns, and the other to a rival one. The innkeeper whose party triumphed was expected to treat his partisans liberally. The Ch. is late Perp., with a square embattled W. tower, erected 1513. There is a stone pulpit bearing the date 1624, and some of the windows are decorated with ancient stained glass. The S. door is Norm., having probably belonged to an older ch. ; the carved oak pews are curious and of great antiquity. There are some well-sculptured tombs in the ch.-yard, particularly one belonging to the family of Walton L of Hell- beck. 1 m. from Brough, Hellbeck Hall (S. Breaks, Esq.), a plain residence built on the side of the Fell. On one of the projecting rocks of Hellbeck Fell is a tower called the Fox Tower, the view from which is very exten- sive. Hellbeck is probably a com- pound of hella , the Norse word for pour, and beck, a stream ; many such descending from the heights of the lofty fells above Brough. 5 m. E. from Brough, on the old turnpike-road from London to Glas- gow, and near the top of Stainmoor, are the remains of a Roman camp, and a fragment of a cross called Rear Cross , or Roy Cross , which is said to have marked the boundary be- tween Scotland and England when William the Conqueror ceded Cum- berland to the Scottish Crown, on condition that no further aggres- sions should be made upon the Eng- lish frontier. The road over Stain- moor was long the only practicable route into Cumberland, which ac- counts for the number of fortresses that were erected in the vicinity. A stage coach was first placed on this road in 1774. Stainmoor was long notorious for Border frays, and is referred to by Sir W. Scott in his ballad of * Allan a Hale : ’ — “ Allan a Dale was ne’er belted a knight, Though his spur be as sharp, and his blade be as bright ; Allan a Dale is no baron or lord, Yet twenty tall yeomen will draw at his word ; And the best of our nobles his bonnet will veil, Who at Rear Cross on Stainmoor meet Allan a Dale.” 125 Route 14 . — Ki Holinshed gives the following account of Rear Cross. Its position, and the care taken to protect it, seem to indicate that it was a landmark of importance : — “ At length a peace was concluded betwixt the two kings under these conditions, that Malcolme should enjoy that part of Northumberland which lieth betwixt Tweed, Cumber- land, and Stainmore, and doo homage to the Kinge of England for the same. In the midst of Stainmore there shall be a crosse set up, with the Kinge of England’s image on the one side, and the Kinge of Scotland’s on the other, to signifie that one is march to England, and the other to Scotland. This crosse was called the Roi-crosse, that is, the cross of the kinge/’ Near Brough are some interesting geological features. A fault is dis- played on a scale said to be unrivalled in any other part of England. “ Near the town is a steep craggy mountain ridge ranging parallel to the prin- cipal escarpment, from which it is separated by a ravine several hundred feet in depth. On entering this line we find ourselves in the line of an ancient convulsion by which the whole craggy ridge has been torn from the escarpment, and tumbled over into the valley, in which it now stands on edge, every part of it being inclined at a very considerable angle. It is of great thickness, and probably includes nearly the whole calcareous system of Cross Fell ; but its upper beds are buried under the alluvium of the new red sandstone.” — ‘ Transactions B. 6r. Society / Kirkby-Stephen , 3J m. from Mus- grove Stat. ( Inns : King’s Head, good; Black Bull). Pop. 1500. The town is situated on the 1. bank of the Eden. The trout-fishing in this part of the river is excellent. There are a ifew copper and lead mines in the neighbourhood. The town is sur- "hby-Steplien. rounded by lofty hills, of which Wild- boar Fell, the giant of the group, with its bold escarpment, stands out like a great headland over the country. The Ch ., dedicated to St. Stephen, was restored in 1848. The tower was rebuilt in 1753. There are several handsome memorial windows. On the N. side is the Wharton Chapel , which has also been restored and decorated ; it contains a tomb in Caen stone of Thomas, first Earl of Wharton, and his two wives. In the S. aisle is the Musgrave chapel, containing a tomb of the 14th centy., with a recumbent figure supposed to be a Sir George Mus- grave ; in this chapel is a small 'iscina. The ch., although deformed >y hideous galleries, has some inter- esting features ; but the nave has been most injudiciously shortened by cutting off from it, by means of a screen, two of its pillars. In the chancel are a decorated piscina and some sedilia. The Wharton pew is embellished with curious oak carv- ings, and in the belfry is the huge wooden clock of the most primitive construction, made in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. One of the doors of the . ch. is riddled with shot fired by Cromwell’s troopers. To the E., and 1 m. from the town, are the remains of Hartley Castle , in a fine situation overlooking the town. It was one of the resi- dences of the Musgrave family, but is now a farmhouse, the principal part of the building having been pulled down to supply materials for the repairs of Eden Hall, the present seat of the family. 2 m. S. Wharton Hall , the patri- monial seat of Philip Duke of Whar- ton, the accomplished and profligate nobleman whose character has been so finely drawn by Pope. A con- siderable portion of the old mansion G 3 126 Route 14 .— Wharton Sail — Pendragon Castle. is still standing ; one part of it has been converted into a farmhouse, and another has been fitted up by the Earl of Lonsdale, to whom the Hall now belongs, in a plain style as a shooting seat. The quadrangle is entered by a gateway over which are the Wharton arms with the date 1539 ; the tower is much dilapidated, but the top may be reached by a winding-staircase, the stones of which are much worn; the warder’s room is on the rt. After passing through the gateway, the principal remains are seen to consist of the chapel, the great hall now used as a kitchen, and some out-houses. The once extensive park, traversed by the Eden, has been divided into farms. The village of Wharton, which once existed near the hill, was pulled down, and its inhabitants removed to Wharton Dykes. The Wharton family was of great antiquity in Westmorland, and was known in this place in the time of Edward I. The first title of nobility was conferred by Henry VIII. on Sir Thomas Wharton for his defeat of the Scots at Solway Moss (Rte. 9). The most celebrated of the family was Philip Duke of Wharton, the only son of Thomas Marquis of Wharton, who was born in 1698. In conse- quence of his great talents he was raised, while still a minor, to the highest rank in the peerage. He was “a man of unbounded genius, eloquence, and ambition,” but his career was one of shameless pro- fligacy, both public and private ; and he was successively a Tory, a Jacobite, and a traitor. He served against his country as a .colonel in the Spanish army during the siege of Gibraltar in 1727, and died in extreme poverty in a Spanish convent in 1731 at the age of 32. There were persons living atKirkby-Stephenin 1771 who remembered the Duke’s practice of hunting on Sundays, and the general profligacy of his manners. (See p. 109.; } m. S. of Wharton Hall are the remains of Lammerside Castle in a fine situation ; the remains are very slight, and consist only of fragments of walls, and part of a tower, with the dungeon. The plan of the original edifice can scarcely be traced. Pendragon Castle , 3 m. from Whar- ton Hall, according to tradition, was built in the time of Vortigern by Uter Pendragon, a mythical person- age said to have been a Welsh prince, and a companion of King Arthur, and who, in order better to protect his castle, endeavoured to divert the course of the river so as to make it encircle the walls, an attempt which gave rise to the provincial saying, — “Let Uter Pendragon do what he can, Eden will run where Eden ran.” The castle was also called Mailer - stang from the neighbouring forest of that name. It was one of the castles of Anne Countess of Pembroke, and was repaired by her. Over the castle gate was an inscription, now effaced : “ This Pendragon Castle was re- payered by the Lady Anne Clifford, Countesse - Dowager of Pembroke, Dorsett, and Montgomerie, Baroness Clifford, Westmorland, and Vescie, High Sheriffesse, by inheritance, of the County of Westmorland, and Lady of Honour of Skipton in Craven, in the year 1661 ; so as she came to lye in it herself for a little while in October 1631, after it had layen ruinous without timber or any cover- ing ever since -the year 1511.” The castle was burned to the ground by the Scots in the reign of Edward III. It was rebuilt, and became one of the seats of the Clifford family. One of the flanking towers is still toler- ably perfect. The situation is fine on a mound above the Eden, which flows under the walls ; on the other side it was protected by a deep moat. The castle was dismantled by Thomas Earl of Thanet in 1685. 127 Boute 14 ; — Wildboar Fell — Bavenstone Bale. Wildboar Fell , 3 m. to the S. of Pendragon Castle, on the N. slope of Ravenstone Dale Fell, is the source of the Lune, and a little to the E. are the head-springs of the Eden. Ravenstone Dale is a wildly pic- turesque and very secluded district, having only a few rude cottages and plain homesteads to disturb the feel- ing of almost complete solitude. The manor was the property of the Priory of Walton, in Yorkshire, and besides being exempted from taxation it had a privilege of sanctuary, and no sheriff or king’s officer could enter it to apprehend criminals. All offenders were tried before the steward of the manor, by a jury of tenants. If a murderer fled to the ch. and touched the “ holy bell,” he was free ; and if a stranger came within the precincts of the manor he was safe from fur- ther pursuit. In 1645, says a local chonicler, a murderer lived and died in Ravenstone Dale, whose posterity continued there for 2 generations, and then became extinct. A place in a part of the parish is still called Gallows Hill. On the South Darlington line of rly,, between Kirkby-Stephen and the Barras Stat., is the Belah iron via- duct, 1000 ft. in length, 200 ft. in height. The neighbourhood of Kirkby-Ste- phen possesses some interesting geo- logical features. Where the red sand- stone first appears in the ramifications of the Eden it is chiefly seen as a con- glomerate abounding in fragments of mountain limestone. From the different degrees of induration in the composition of this conglomerate, the parts where sand and cementing matter are largely present are soft and crumbling ; hence it offers a very unequal resistance to the action of water, and above Kirkby - Stephen, where the Eden makes its passage through it, it has been worn into chan- nels of singular complexity. Chasms and deep basins have been scooped out where the rock offered the least resistance; and by reason of these inequalities eddies are formed in the river during floods, and which, whirl- ing round the hard pebbles at the bot- tom, gradually grind away the solid rock. Caverns are thus formed, and the masses of conglomerate become so much undermined as often to afford a new passage for the river below its former level. An example of this occurs at Stenkreth Bridge , 1 m. from Kirkby-Stephen, where the water, after passing over the inclined strata of mountain limestone below Pen- dragon Castle, plunges into the hori- zontal masses of conglomerate ; after which it is heard roaring in a subter- ranean channel communicating, by a narrow cleft called the Span of the Eden (which can be crossed by a single step, and which, it is said, could once be measured with the hand, but the rock was broken to prevent the winning of a bet), with what appears to have been the an- cient bed of the river. The largest of these chasms is just above Sten- kreth Bridge, and is called Coop Kernal Hole, from Coop, hollow, and Cairn , a rock. Some of these holes being above the present bank of the river have been thought to have some relation to Druidism, but they are the effects of purely natural causes. From Kirkby-Stephen to Kirkby- Lonsdale it is necessary to take the Ingleton Branch of the Eden Val- ley Rly. as far as Tebay Junct., whence a line runs direct to Kirkby- Lonsdale. 6J m. Newbiggin Stat. 3J m. the country is pleasingly varied by fine wooded hills. 7 m. Tebay Stat. The line here branches off to Kirkby - Lonsdale 18 m. 128 Route 14 . — RirJcby-Lonsdale. 4 m. Low Grill Stat. The rly. crosses the Lune by a viaduct of 12 arches, and follows the direction of the valley to Kirkby-Lonsdale. 4 m. Sedbergh Stat., in Yorkshire : the town is about 1 m. to the 1. of the stat. 3 m. Middleton Stat. 3J m. Barbon Stat. The country is here hilly and well wooded. 3 m. Kirkby-Lonsdale . (Inns : The Boyal Hotel, good ; Green Dragon ; King’s Arms.) Pop. 1300. The town is 2 m. from the rly. stat. : omnibus from the station. The town is very beautifully situated on the rt. bank of the Lune or Lon, and derives its name from the vale in which it lies, i.e. the Kirk-town of Lons -dale. The views, terminated by the lofty Fells on one side and the mountain of Ingleborough on the other, are exceedingly fine. A happier combi- nation of river, meadow, and wood, than that which is seen from the churchyard, can scarcely be imagined. The fine bridge which spans the Lune, J m. below the town, has 3 ribbed arches, the two largest with a span of 55 ft. each, and the lesser of 28 ft. The parapet is 52 ft. above the ordi- nary level of the river. The views on each side are charming, the Lune foaming over its rocky bed, under banks richly clothed with wood. Nothing can surpass the beauty of the scenery of the valley of the Lune, between Kirkby-Lonsdale and Hornby, a distance of 6 m. by road which skirts the river. The market-place, in front of the Royal Hotel, was built in 1822, from the design of a Westmorland archi- tect. The only object of interest in the town is The Church , dedicated to St. Mary. The arch under the tower, and several of the piers, are Norm. It has suffered much from modern “ improvements.” The tower was re- stored in 1705, and at a later period, the whole edifice being in need of repair, its Tudor roof, battlements, pinnacles, and clerestory, were re- moved, and a sloping roof of blue slate was substituted. The stalls were at the same time pulled down, and the pillars and capitals covered with plaster and whitewashed. The improvements have since been more judiciously conducted; the pillars have been cleared of their plaster coatings, the arches rechiselled, and the capitals restored ; many of these are very fine, consisting of various symbolical figures and of clusters of flowers. The pillars are scored with deep transverse grooves, and altogether the ch. has a very im- posing effect. The W. doorway is a fine specimen of Norm., being deeply moulded, with clustered pil- lars with decorated capitals. The S. doorway is also Norm., and a good specimen of zigzag or chevron moulding. The W. portion of the ch. is the oldest. In one of the pillars, near the chancel, is a de- corated piscina. Above the Com- munion-table is a beautiful lancet window with 3 lights, a good speci- men of E. Eng., with slender project- ing columns connected by slight bands of stone. The rich stained glass in this window was the gift of Richard Atkinson, Esq. The other stained glass windows are chiefly memorial. The oak pulpit bears the date 1612. No ch. in Westmorland so well deserves the attention of archaeologists. A really judicious restoration was undertaken 1867-8, under the care of Mr. Paley, of Lan- caster, at the expense of Lord Kenlis of Underley. Underley Hall (Lord Kenlis), 1 m. from the town. The mansion is modern, in the Elizabethan style, and was built in the beginning of the present century. It is situated in a well-timbered park, and sheltered on 129 Route 14 . — Uncterley Hall — Easgill Caverns „ all sides by wooded bills. Lune sweeps past the grounds in a graceful curve, and its finely wooded banks are seen from them to great advantage. The walk to Under- ley Hall from the ch.-yard, through the park, is delightful. The mansion contains a few pictures, but none of remarkable merit. The chief at- tractions are the grounds and the river scenery. Near Kirkby-Lons- dale is Casterton Hall , celebrated for the admirable institution founded there by the benevolence of the late Rev. W. Carus- Wilson for the daughters of clergymen, of whom upwards of 100 are fed, clothed, and educated at Casterton for about 18Z. a year. The instruction includes music, French, and drawing. The Rev. W. Carus-Wilson was born in 1792, and was the eldest son of W. W. Carus-Wilson, M.P. for Cocker- mouth. He died in 1860, and his remains are interred in the family vault at Casterton. The remarkable limestone caverns in the neighbourhood of Kirkby-Lons- dale are well worth visiting. They occur in the great Scar limestone for- mation, the term scar meaning, in the dialect of the N. of England, a bare precipice on the face of a mountain. The grey scars near the base of Ingle- borough, of Penigent, Whernside, on the borders of Westmorland, the mural precipices above Giggleswick and Malham, and the magnificent gorge of Gordale, belong to this for- mation. These rocks are full of fis- sures and clefts, often of unknown depth, in which mountain torrents are engulfed, and which, after running for considerable distances in subter- ranean channels, emerge again in the neighbouring valleys. Many of the caverns are of considerable ex- tent, and are open to the surface; others can only be approached by narrow horizontal entrances. In some of these subterranean recesses are waterfalls of no common gran- deur ; in others, the waters are not seen, but only heard roaring through vaulted and inaccessible chambers. As a general rule, these caverns possess perpendicular walls and nearly flat roofs. They have not been formed by the erosion of the streams flowing through them, but they owe their origin to violent dislocations of the strata at some remote geological epoch. The most interesting of these caverns is Easgill , a ravine between Leek and Casterton Fells, 3 m. from Kirkby-Lonsdale. The most direct route is over Casterton Fell ; there is, however, a carriage-road by Co wen. The first cavern after the entrance of the Gill is called the Witch Holes. It is easy of access, and runs far into the mountain. To the rt. of the entrance is a singular formation called the Witches' Stair- case , leading to a vaulted chamber, the roof and walls of which are en- crusted with stalactites and crystals. Easgill Kirh is a still more remark- able cavern, the floor of which is the bed of a river, and comprises an area of 200 square yards, enclosed by per- pendicular walls from 100 to 200 ft. high. After heavy rain there is a fine waterfall in this cavern. There is a smaller recess called the Choir , which is entered by a natural arch- way. In this chamber is a stalactite of curious form, called the Priest of Easgill. The Fells in the neighbourhood of Easgill abound in other chasms of unknown depth, to which no access has been discovered. After visiting Easgill and its caverns, the tourist should proceed to— The Cave of Yordas, one of the most extraordinary of these singular formations. Cross the mountain called Gregareth, and, descending 130 'Route 14 . — Y or das , GafeJcirlc, and Ingleborough Caves . on its opposite side into a small rocky ravine, the stream is seen, which, falling in a succession of small cascades, is suddenly lost in a large fissure. At the foot of the ravine is the entrance to Yordas Cave , by a natural archway. Lights (provided by a guide) are necessary in order to see the natural curiosities of this singular chamber. A stream rushes through it, and the roar- ing of water is at times very im- pressive. The cavern is 1000 ft. in length, 48 ft. in breadth, and from 30 to 40 ft. high. The walls are covered with incrustations and sta- lactites, and many fanciful resem- blances are discovered in them to escutcheons, armour, &c. An inner cavern is called the Chapter-house , a circular recess, the roof of which looks as if it were supported by slender clustered columns. There is a cascade at one end of this inner cavern, with an inclined fall of 50 ft. There are other places in the vicinity of Kirkby - Lonsdale, in which cavities in the Scar limestone occur. Hull Pot is a roofless cavern with perpendicular walls, from which may be heard the roaring of subter- ranean waters. Hunt Pot is an open crevice of unknown bat great depth, as is proved by the long-continued rumbling noise on stones being thrown into it. At the base of Whernside, a moun- tain a little above Ingleton, are many fissures and caverns, in one of which, Weathercote Cave, in Cliapel-le-Dale, is a waterfall of no common beauty. The entrance is by an opening in the S.E. side, and the cave is reached by a flight of rude steps under an arched roof. The walls of the cavern rise in a black mass full 120 ft. per- pendicularly ; trees and shrubs, the branches of which meet above, add to the impressiveness of the scene. The cascade falls on a flat natural pavement at the bottom of the cave, with an overpowering noise. Gatekirk Cave , 1J m. N. of Wea- thercote. The river Greet runs through it. Stalactites and stalag- mites occur here in the greatest pro- fusion. The roof is covered with grotesque forms in stone ; “ the ledge of the W. side is like an image- maker’s shop.” There are several other natural curiosities near Kirkby-Lonsdale, to see which, however, it is necessary to proceed beyond Ingleton, but they form portions of the group of in- teresting objects which may be easily visited from this town. 1J m.from the village of Clapham, on the Settle road, is Ingleborough Cave, which is approached through the grounds belonging to the mansion- house of Ingleborough. The entrance is protected by an iron grating, and is kept locked, but a guide resides near the spot. It is divided into two recesses, one 200 yards long, with a low roof, — the old cave ; the other, — the new cave, which was discovered in 1838, an artificial outlet having been made for the imprisoned waters. This cavern is 1000 yards long, and consists of a series of chambers, with stalagmites and stalactites in great profusion. A stream flows through it, and a pathway has been formed along its side. 1 m. from Settle, by the side of the road, is the “Reciprocating Well” of Giggleswick, a curious hydraulic phe- nomenon connected with the passage of the waters through the Scar limestone. 4 m. to the E. of the town of Settle is the magnificent gorge . of Gordale. It is a gloomy ravine strewn with vast rocks and boulders. The sides are upwards of 240 feet high. Derbyshire scarcely contains anything more picturesque. ( 131 ) INDEX. ABBEYS. A. Abbeys, remains of, xxiv. Aldingham, 12. Allonby, 96. Alston, 107. Ambleside, 35 ; waterfall, 35 j walks near, 35. to Keswick, 47. to the Valley of the Duddon, 42. Antiquities, xxiii. Appleby, 122 ; Castle, 122 ; Church, 123. Appleth waite, 56. Ara Force, 118; legend of, 118. Armath waite, 63. Armboth, 66. d Arnside, 6. Arthur’s Round Table, 108. Arthuret, T ioo, Askham, 11$. Aspatria, 96. Axelodunum, Roman station, 99 . B. Backbarrow, 33. Barbon, 128. Bardsea, 12. Barnscar, <54. Barrow, 16 ; dock, 17. Fall, 58. Barrow, Sir John, monument to, 10 ; birthplace, 10. , town and island, 16. Bassenth waite Lake, 63. Belle Isle, 32. Beetha river, 26. Beetham, 26. Bewcastle, ruins at, 107 ; cross in the churchyard, 107. Birker Force, 94. Birthwaite, 30. Black Combe, 21. Black-lead mine, 7c. Black Sail Pass, 70. Blake Fell, 71. Holme, 33. Blea Tarn, 40. CHAPEL. Bleng river, 89. Blind Tarn, 43. Borrowdale, 60. Bout, 92. Bowfell, 39. Bowness, 31. Bowness-on-Sea, 99. Bowscale Tarn, 65. Brampton, 106. Brathay, 38. — — river, 38. Bridekirk, 85. Brothers’ Water, 120. Brough, town and castle, 123 ; geological features, 124. Brougham Castle, 112. Hall, 113. Broughton, 19. Tower, 19. Burdoswald, Roman remains at, 107. Burgh, 99. Burton, 26. Buttermere, 69. C. Caer Mote, 97. Caldbeck, 84. Calder Abbey, 88. Bridge, 88. river, 89. Caldew river, 84. Calgarth, 32. Cark, 9. Carlisle, 77 ; historical notice, 77 ; remains of the Roman city, 77 ; cathedral, 78 ; castle, 80; ancient walls, 81 ; manufactures, 81. to Gilsland Spa, 101. to Longtown, 100. to Silloth, 99. Carnforth, 6. Cartmel, 7. Casterton Hall, 129. Castle Crag, 61. Hill, 83. Sowerby, 83. Castlesteads, Roman station, 76. Castles, remains of, xxiv. 1 Chapel Island, 9 HUNMAIL. Charles Edward, Prince, his passage of the Esk, 100 . Churches, xxiv. Clappersgate, 38. Cliburn, 121. Clifford, Lady Ann, Countess of Pembroke, her castles, 128. , the Shepherd Lord, 65. • Clifton, 121. Coal-field of Whitehaven, 24. of Workington, 86. Coal-fields, xiii. Cocker river, 85. Cockermouth, 84 ; castle, 84. Cockley Beck, 46. Codale Tarn, 49. Coleridge, Hartley, his grave, 48. Cole with Force, waterfall, 40- Communication, means of, xxxi. Conishead Priory, 12. Coniston, 42 ; lake, 42 ; bo- tany, 43. Old Man, 42. Corby Castle, 101. Country seats, xxv. Crake river, 42. Crosth waite, 57. Crummock Water, 67. Cumwhitton, 102. Curthwaite, 98. Curwen’s Island, 3 2. D. Dacre Castle and family, 111 . Dallam Tower, 26. Dalston, 13. Deepdale, 120. Derwent Island, 58. river, 59. Derwentwater, 57. Devoke Water, 94. Dove’s Nest, 33. Dragley Beck, 10. Druidical remains, xxiii. Duddon, valley of the, 44. Grove, 45. Dungeon Ghyll, 39. Dunmail Raise, 53. 132 INDEX. EAGLE. E. Eagle Crag, in Borrow dale, 61. Thirlmere, 53. Eamont river, 109. Easdale, 49. ■ Force, 49. Tarn, 49. Easgill, 129. Kirk, 129. Eden river, 101, 112. Hall, 109; “Luck” of, 109. Edward I., his death at Burgh Marsh, 99. Egremont, 87 ; castle, 87 ; Horn of, 88. Ehen river, 23. Ellen river, 63. Ellenborough, 95. , the first Lord, his birth- place, 95. Elleray, 31. Elter water, 38. Ennerdale, 72. x . Bridge, 73. Lake, 72. Eskdale, 93; geological forma- tion, 94 ; Roman and other remains, 94. Esthwaite Water, 44. F. Fairfield, 51. Fairies’ Kirk, 84. Kettle, 84. Far Easdale, 49. Forests at the time of the Conquest, cause of their destruction, ix. Fox, George, his residence, 10. Fox How, 36. Foxfield, 19. Friar’s Crag, 14, 56. Furness Abbey, 14. District, 4. G. Gatekirk Cave, 130. Gates Water, 43. Geology of Westmorland and Cumberland, xii. Ghylls, xi. Giggleswick, “Reciprocating Well” of, 130. Gilpin, Bernard, his birth- place, 1 16. Gilsland Spa, 106. Glacier action, traces of, in the Lake district, xvi. Gleaston Castle, 13. Glencoin, 120. HOWK. Glenderamakin stream, 55. Glenridding, 120. Gordale, 130. Gosforth, 89, Graham, Sir James, his grave, 100. Grange, in Cartmel, 6. in Borrowdale, 6c. Grasmere, lake and vale of, 48 ; village, 48. Grassmoor, 68. Greenhead Ghyll, 50. Greet river, 130. Greta river, 55. Gretna Green, 100. Greystoke Castle, 82. Griesdale, 120. Tarn, 52. Pike, 56. H. Hardknot Castle, 94; Pass, 95 - Harrington, 87. Hartley Castle, 125. Hawes water, 115. Hawkshead, 44 ; celebrities of its grammar-school, 44 ; vale of, 44. Hawl Ghyll, 90. Hayes Water, 120. Hellbeck Fell, 124. Helm Wind, the, 74. Crag, 47. Helvellyn, 52 ; ascent of, from Grasmere, 52 ; from Wyth- burn, 52 ; from Patterdale, 119; views from, 119. Hempsfell, 7. Henry VI. at Muncaster Castle, 22. Heversham, 26. High Close, 49. High Street, Roman road, 41. Hilbeck,a rock with a Roman inscription, 106. History of Westmorland and Cumberland, xix. Hoad Hill, 10. Holborn Hill, 20. Holker Hall, 8. Holme Eden, 103. Island, 8. Honister Crag slate-quarries. How Town, 1 1 7. Howard, Lord William (“Belted Will”), Warden of the West Marches, 104 ; his character, 104 ; his apartments at Naworth, 104. Howk cascade, 84. LIZA I. Ingleborough Cave, 130. Ireby, 97. Irt river, 93. Irton, oj. Hall, 9?. Isis Parlis, 109. J. Jones, Paul, 25. K Keer river, 6. Kendal, 26 ; geology, 27 ; church, story connected with, 27 ; castle, 28 barony, 29 ; botany, 29. Kent river, 29. Kentmere Hall, ii6._ valley, 115. Keswick, Southey’s residence, 55; museum, 56; botany of the neighbourhood, 5 7. to Whitehaven, 82. to Buttermere, 69. Kirkby-Treleth, 19 ; slate- quarries, 19. Kirkby-Lonsdale, 128. Kirkby-Stephen, 125 ; geo logical features, 127. Kirkby Thore, 121. Kirkoswald, in. Kirkstone Pass, 121 L. Lakes, their origin, x; alii. tudes, xxxix. Lammerside Castle, 126. Lamplugh Cross, 71. Lancaster, history and ap- pearance, 2; public build- ings, 3. to Furness Abbey, 2. to Ambleside, 26. Lanercost Priory, 105. Langdale, 38. Pikes, 39. Leathes Water, 53. Leven river, 33. Levens Hall, 30. Levers Water, 42. Limestone caverns near Kirkby-Lonsdale, 129. Limestone formation, xiv. Ling Holme, 33. Liza river, 72. valley, 72. INDEX, 133 LODORE. Lodore waterfall, 59. Long Meg and her Daughters, Druidical temple, 1 10. Longtown, 100. Lord’s Island, 58. Lorton Vale, 68. Loughrigg, 36. Tarn, 36. Low Gill, 7 3. Low Water, 43. Low Wood, 33. Lower Hartsop, 120. Loweswater, 71. Lowther Castle, 114 ; its col- lection of pictures, 114. river, 114. Luck of Edenhall, 109. Luguvallum, Roman station, 77 - Lune river, 2, 128. Lyulph’s Tower, 118. M. Manners and customs, xxviii. Mardale Green, 115. Martindale, 117. Mary Queen of Scots at Workington, 87. Mary port, 95. Mayborough, 108. Mell Fell, geology of, 116. Middleton, 128. Millbeck, 38. Millom Castle, 20. Milnthorpe, 26. Mines, xix. Morecamb Bay, 4 ; railway embankment, 5. Morseby, 87. Mote, the, 106. Mountains, vii ; their forms, viii, ix ; elevations of, xxxviii. Mumps Ha’, 107. M uncaster Castle, 22 ; church, 22. N. Nan Bield Pass, 115. Naworth Castle, 103 ; its his- torical interest, 104; por- traits of the Howard family, 104. Nether Hall, 96. Netherby, 101. Newbiggin. 127. Newby Bridge, 33. Newfield, 45. Nunnery, hi. RYDAL. 0 . Old Carlisle, 97 ; Roman re- mains, 97 ; line of camps, 98. Old Penrith, remains of Roman station at, 76. Overwater, 63. Oxenholme, 26. P. Papcastle, 85. Par ton, 87. Patterdale, 117. to Ambleside, 120. Pearls of the Irt, 93. Peel Island and Castle, 18. Wyke, 63. Pendragon Castle, 126. Pennington family, monu- ments of, 22. Penrith, 75; castle and church, 75, 76; ancient crosses in the churchyard, 76 ; objects of interest in its vicinity, 108. to Ambleside, 108. to Kirkby Lonsdale, 121. Philipson, Major, anecdote of, 27. Ponsonby Hall, 88. Pooley Bridge, 116. Portinscale, 64. Pull Wyke, 34. Q. Quakers, first meeting-house of, 10. E. Rampsholme, island, 59. Ravenglass, 21. Ravens tone Dale, 127. Rayrigg, 32. Rear Cross, 124. Red Bank, 49. Red Knights, 83. Red Pike, 69. Roe Island, 18. Roman remains, xxiv. Rose Castle, 9 8 Rosehill, 106. Rosth waite, 61. Rothay river and valley, 35. Richard HI., his residence in Penrith Castle, 75. Rivers, xi. Rydal, 36. STEPHENSON. Rydal Hall, waterfalls, 36. Mount, residence of Wordsworth, 37. — — Water, 3 7 - S. Saddleback, 65. Salkeld Bridge, 112. Santon Bridge, 93* Sawrey, 44. Scale Hill, 67. — — Force, 68. Scarf Gap Pass, 70. Scawfell, ascent of, 91 ; view from, 91 ; the descent, 92 ; botany, 93. Scawfell Pike, 91. Scout Scar, botany of, 27. Seascales, 22. Seathwaite, 51 ; rainfall in the valley, 61. Sedbergh, 128. Settle, 130. Shap, 74. Abbey, 74. Fells, 75. Summit, 74. Wells, 74. Silecroft, 20. Silloth, 100. Silver Holme, 33. Silverdale, 6. Sizergh Hall, 29. Skeleton tours, xxii. Skelwith, 38. Force, waterfall, 38. Skiddaw, 62 ; ascent of, view from, 62; composition of, 62 ; best period for ascend- ing, 63. Slate-rocks, xv. Small Water, 31. Solway Moss, battle of, 100 ; Railway, 10 1. Southey, Robert, his resi- dence at Keswick, 55 ; his epitaph by Wordsworth, 55 . Sprinkling Fell, great rainfall on, 61. St. Bees, 23 ; college, 24. St. Bega, legend of, 23. St. Herbert’s Island, 58. St. John’s Vale, 64. St. John’s Beck, 64. Stainmoor, 124. Stake Pass, 39. Stanley Ghyll Fall, 94. Stanwix, 81. Stavely, 30. Stenkreth Bridge, 127. Stephenson, George, his plan lor a railway across More- camb Bay, 5. [ Westm. and Curnb . ] H 134 INDEX, STICKLE. Stickle Pike, 39. Tarn, 39. Stock Ghyll Force, 35. Stonethwaite, 39. Storrs Hall, its collection of pictures, 32. Strands, 89. Sty Head Pass, 92. ■ Tarn, 92. Superstitions, xxviii. Swartmoor, n. Hall, 10. _ T. Tams, importance of, xi ; altitudes, xxxix. Tebay, 74. Temple Sowerby, 121. Thirlmere, $3. Threlkeld, 84. Thrispot, 5 3 . Thursby, 98. Tickell the poet, his birth- place, 86. Tongue Ghyll waterfall, 50. Torver, 4 3. Troutbeck, 40. u. Ullswater, 116. Ulpha, 45. Ulverston, 10 ; geology of the district, 11. WESTMORLAND. Underley Hall, 128. Urswick, 13. V. Yale of St. John, 64. Virosidum, Roman station, 96. w. Walker, Rev. Robert, his multifarious employments, his grave at Newfield, 46. Walla Crag, 56. Walna Scar, 47. Walney Island, 18. Wansfell, 3 5. Warwick, 10 3. Bridge, 103. Wastdale, 91. Head, 91. ';| Wastwater lake, 90. Watendlath, 66. Waterfalls, xi. Waterhead, 34. Watson, Bishop, 32. Weathercote Cave and water- fall, 130. Westmorland and Cumber- land, their physical features and scenery, vii ; geology, xii; history, antiquities, castles, and country seats, xix; social aspect, xxv; travelling and communica- tions, xxxi ; skeleton tours, xxxii ; elevations of moun- THE END. YORDAS. tains, xxxviii ; altitudes Of lakes and tarns, xxxix. Wetheral, 101 ; Priory, 102 ; church, 102. Wharton Hall, 125. , Philip Duke of, 126. Whitehaven, 24; coal-mines, 25 ; harbour, 25. to Carlisle, 95. to Wastwater, 87. Wigton, 97 ; ancient Sunday market at, 98. Wildboar Fell, 127. Wilson, Professor (Christo- pher North), his residence, 3i. Windermere, 30. Lake, 32. Stat. to Ambleside, 34. Wishing Gate, the, 51 ; the poem, 51. Witch-holes, 129. Wordsworth, William, his residence at Rydal Mount, 37 ; at Hawkshead, 44 ; at Grasmere, 48 ; his grave and epitaph, 48 ; graves of his wife, daughter, and sister, 48 ; his birthplace, 84. Workington, 86 ; coalfield, 86 . Wray Castle, 33. Wrynose Pass, 47. Wythburn, 53. Y. Yewdale, 42. Yordas Cave, 129. LONDON : POINTED BY W. CLOWES AND SONS, DUKE STIiEET, STAMFORD STREET, AND CHARING CROSS. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 1869. The best Advertising Medium for all who are desirous of attracting the attention of English and American Tourists in all parts of the world. Annual Circulation, 15,000. Advertisements must be received by the 20 th April, and are inserted at the rate of £5 for a page and 50s. for half a page. INDEX TO THE ADVERTISEMENTS. Page Axx ties Bains— G rand Hotel de l’Europe 66 Amsterdam — B rack’s Hotel . . 39 Amphion — B ains d’Amphion . . 48 .Andermatt— N agel-Donazians, Na- turalist 60 Antwerp — H otel St. Antoine . . 38 Hotel de l’Europe .... 40 H6tel de la Paix 40 Hotel du Grand Labourer . . 66 Athens — H otel des Etrangers . 48 Baden-Baden— V ictoria Hotel . 37 Barcelona — Hotel de Quatre Nations 46 BellagIo — G reat Britain Hotel . 40 Berlin — HO tel Boyal .... 22 Hotel d’Angleterre .... 39 Berne — H eller’s Musical Boxes . 31 Biarritz — H otel de France . . 38 Bologna — H otel d’ltalie ... 50 Bonn — G olden Star Hotel ... 24 JBreisgau — H otel d’Allemande . 46 Bordeaux — HO tel des Princes . 49 Brienz — G rossmann’s Wood Sculpt. 6 Brussels — HO tel de Belle Vue . 64 Grand HOtel de Saxe .... 45 Oadenabbia— H otel de Belle Vue 46 Chaumont— H otel de Chaumont. 37 Cologne — F arina’s Eau de Cologne 9 Jacobi’s Cigars 12 Constantinople— H otel d’Angle- terre 54 Dieppe — HO tel des Basins ... 45 HOtel Boyal 45 Dijon — HO tel du Jura .... 32 Dresden— HO tel de Saxe ... 44 Engadine— B aths of St. Moritz . 43 Engelberg— H otel Titlis . . .^11 Florence — A glietti & Sons, Artists 10 Bianchini’s Mosaic .... 6 Brizzi’s Musical Establishment . 25 Costa and Conti, Artists . . .12 Hotel de la Paix 11 Montelatici’s Mosaics. ... 15 Bomanelli, Sculptor .... 26 Frankfort — T acchi’s Glass Ware- house 8 Eoman Emperor Hotel ... 20 Bohler’s Manufactory of Stag- horn 51 Freiburg— HO tel Sommer . . 37 Geneva — B aker, Chemist ... 14 Brdmond, Musical Boxes . . 26 Grand Hotel, Beau Bivage . . 22 Grivaz, Jeweller 7 Hotel de la Couronne ... 25 HOtel du Lac 19 Hotel de la Paix 2 Hotel del’Ecu 2 Hotel de la Metropole ... 32 Journal des Etrangers ... 58 Ladies’ Boarding School ... 66 Lacroix, Watchmaker ... 20 Page Geneva — M oulinie, Watchmaker. 33 Mauchain, Wood Carvings , . .60 Pension des Alpes ; . . . .33 Tissot and Co., Watchmakers . 58 Genoa — G rand Hotel d ltalie . 65 Hotel des Quatre Nations . . 50 Hanover— U nion Hotel ... 35 Heidelberg— C ourt of Baden Hotel 36 HOtel de l’Europe 43 Prince Charles Hotel .... 44 Hombourg — HO tel Victoria . 42 Hotel des Quatre Saisons. . . 46 Interla chen— H otel de Belle Vue 47 HOtel Jungfrau 47 Interlaken— HO tel Belvedere . 37 Lausanne — HO tel Beau Bivage . 42 HOtel Belvedere 37 Hotel Gibbon 35 Hotel Biehemont 35 Lucerne— HO tel d’Angleterre. . 26 Hotel Beau Bivage .... 42 Hotel Belle Vue 37 HOtel Schweizerhof .... 39 Swan Hotel 39 TjUohon — Grand Hotel Bonne- Maison 36 Lugano— HO tel du Parc ... 47 Marseilles — Grand HOtel de Marseilles 29 Grand HOtel Noailles .... 40 Mayence— H otel d’Angleterre . 19 Mentone— HO tel de la Mdditer- rane'e 48 Milan — H otel Cavour .... 47 Grand HOtel de Milan ... 41 Munich — Wimmer’s Gallery of Fine Arts 7 Naples — C ivalleri, Agent ... 15 Hotel du Louvre 20 Hotel d’Angleterre .... 20 Nice — B aker, Chemist .... 14 HOtel Chauvain . . . . .36 Nuremberg — HO tel de Baviere . 44 Bed Horse Hotel ..... 45 Paris— HO tel des Deux Mondes . 30 Galignani’s Guide .... 26 Pisa — A ndreoni, Sculptor ... 6 Prague — H ofmann’s Glass Manu- factory . . 10 Bagaz — HO tel Tamina .... 19 Home— B aker, Chemist . . .14 Shea, House Agent . . . .13 Eotterdam — K ramers, Bookseller 26 Schaffhausen — HO tel Sell weizer- hof 41 Seville — H otel de Londres . . 46 Stockholm — B lanch’s Cafe . . 53 Turin — G rand HOtel de l’Europe 34 Venice — G rand Hotel Victoria . 54 Ponti, Optician 12 Vevay— HO tel Monnet .... 35 Vichy — G rand HOtel du Parc . . 44 Grand HOtel Velay .... 46 Vienna — L obmeyr’s Glass Manu- factory 10 Neuhoefer, Optician .... 42 Villeneuve— HO tel Byron . . 2 Wiesbaden— B lack Bear Hotel . 48 Four Seasons Hotel .... 42 Wtlbbad — H otel Klumpp ... 41 LONDON. Agents — M'Cracken .... 3-5 Olivier and Co. ... 16, 17 Carr and Co 62, 63 Archaeology, Handbook of . . . 60 Athenaeum 55 Athens and the Morea .... 58 Books and Maps 59 Brown and Poison’s Patent Flour 23 Bubbles from the Brunnen . . 15 Birmingham— Western Hotel . . 67 Cary’s Telescope 7 Chubb’s Locks and Safes . . .18 Continental Express Agency . . 21 Couriers and Servants .... 56 Foreign Books 33 Gillot’s Pens 57 Handbook of Travel Talk ... 63 Heal’s Furniture and Bedsteads . 6L Highlands of Turkey .... 58 Lee and Carter’s Guide Depth. , 56, 68 London and Westminster Bank . 29 Mudie’s Library 25 National Provincial Bank ... 52 Nile and its Banks 29 Norway 47 Parr’s Life Pills ...... 49 Passport Agency — Adams . . .21 Passport Agency — Dorrell ... 55 Passport Agency — Goodman . . 65 Passport Agency — Stanford . . 22 Pompeii and its History. ... 60 Portmanteaus — Allen’s .... 27 Bailway — South-Western ... 28 Thresher’s Essentials for Travel- ling 15 Winter in America 58 Lynton — Valley of Bocks Hotel ... 49 Oxford — Spiers’ Ornamental Manufac- tures 26 Penzance— Mount’s Bay House and Hotel . 53 IRELAND. PORTRUSH— Antrim Anns Hotel .... 28 2 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, SWITZERLAND.-Geneva. GRAND HOTEL BE LA PADL ' J. KOHLER, PROPRIETOR. FIBST-CLASS HOTEL. FROM THE TWENTY BALCONIES ADORNING THIS HOTEL THE MOST SPLENDID PANORAMIC VIEW IN THE WHOLE OF SWITZERLAND MAY BE HAD. GENEVA. (SWITZERLAND.) HOTEL iOOES 3A, 9 E3 O U. New Proprietor, GUSTAVE WOLFE. Same Proprietor of Hotel Byron , near Villeneuve. HP HIS unrivalled and admirably conducted Hotel has long enjoyed an i- extensive and high reputation among Travellers. Situated in the finest part of the town, and facing the lake, it commands a beautiful view of the environs. Its accommodation is of so superior a character, that tourists will find it a highly desirable place of residence or of temporary sojourn. Table-d’H6te at 1 o’clock, 4 fr. ; at 5 o’clock, 4 fr. Arrangements made with families during the winter months at very reasonable charges. New Reading and Smoking Rooms. VILLENEUVE. HOTEL BYRON, NEAR TO THE CASTLE OF CHILLON. New Proprietor, GUSTAVE WOLFF. Same Proprietor as of the Hotel de V Ecu at Geneva . F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, offering every comfort for an agreeable residence; surrounded by a vast Park and a beautiful Garden, and admirably situated for excursions to the mountains. Reading, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms. Reduced prices for a prolonged stay. Horses and Carriages. Breakfast ; Table-d’Hote. Private Dinners at any hour. English spoken. Landing place for Steamers. Telegraph Bureau. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 3, London, May 1, 1869. MESSRS. J. & R. M C CRACKEN, 38, QUEEN STREET, CANNON STREET, E.C., AGENTS, BY APPOINTMENT, TO THE ROYAL ACADEMY, NATIONAL GALLERY,* AND GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENT OF SCIENCE AND ART, GENERAL AND FOREIGN AGENTS, WINE MERCHANTS, Agents for Bouvier’s Neucliatel Champagne, AND AGENTS GENERALLY BOR THE RECEPTION AND SHIPMENT OF WORKS OF ART, BAGGAGE, &C., FROM AND TO AX.X. FARTS OF THE WORLD, Avail themselves of this opportunity to return their sincere thanks to the Nobility and Gentry for the patronage hitherto conferred on them, and hope to' be honoured with a continuance of their favours. Their charges are framed with a due regard to economy, and the same care and attention will be bestowed as heretofore upon all packages passing through their hands. J. and R. M^C. have the advantage of DRY AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES, Where Works of Art and all descriptions of Property can be kept during the Owners’ absence, at most moderate rates of rent. Parties favouring J. and R. M c C. with their Consignments are requested to be particular in having the Bills of Lading sent to them direct by Post, and also to forward their Keys with the Packages, as, although the contents may be free of Duty, all Packages are still examined by the Customs immediately on arrival. Packages sent by Steamers or otherwise to Southampton and Liverpool also attended to ; but all Letters of Advice and Bills of Lading to be addressed to 38, Queen Street, as above. MESSRS. J. AND R. MCCRACKEN ARE THE APPOINTED AGENTS IN ENGLAND OF MR. J. M. FARINA, GeGENUBER DEM JULICHS PLATZ, COLOGNE, SOB HIS CELEBRATED EAU DE COLOGNE. B 2 4 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, MESSRS. J. AND R. MCCRACKEN'S PRINCIPAL CORRESPONDENTS. ALEXANDRIA The Egyptian Commercial and Trading Company— late Briggs & Co. ALICANTE Mr. P. R. Dahlander. ANCONA Messrs. Moore, Morellet, & Co. ANTWERP $ Messrs. F. Mack & Co. X Mr. P. Van Zeebroeck, Picture Dealer, &c., Rue des Recollets, 2076. ATHENS, PIRAEUS BADEN BADEN f Messrs. Stuffer & Binder. Mr. F. Pelikan’s Successor, C. Rasck. * * * X Messrs. Mellerio Freres. Mr. H. Ullrich. BAD EMS Messrs. Becker &-Jung. Mr. H. W. Thiel. BAGNERES DE BI-j GORRE (I-Iautes > Mr. Leon Geruzet, Marble Works. Pyrenees) J r ast.tt! X Messrs. Jean Preiswerk & Fils. Mr. Jean Thommen, Fils. (. Mr. J. Frey. RFPT tnt i Messrs. Schickler Brothers. , I Mr. Lion M. Cohn, Comm re . Expediteur, BERNE Messrs. A. Bader & Co. BEYROUT Mr. Henry Heald. BOLOGNA Messrs. Renoli, Buggio, & Co. Sig. L. Meni. j Mr. Gremailly Fils Aine. BORDEAUX < Mr. Leon Geruzet, 44, Allies de Toumy. ( Messrs. Riviere & Co., Place du Palais, 4. BOULOGNE S. M.. . Messrs. Mory & Co. Messrs. L. J. Vogue & Co. CALAIS Messrs. L. J. Vogue & Co. j CALCUTTA Messrs. Gillanders, Arbuthnot, & Co. CANNES Mr. Taylor. CARLSBAD ........ Mr. Thomas Wolf, Glass Manufacturer. CARRARA Sig. F. Bienaime, Sculptor. CATANIA Messrs. Jeans & Co. CIVITA VECCHIA . Messrs. Lowe Brothers, British Vice- Consulate. pat rknxnr S Mr. J* M. Farina, gegeniiber dem Julichs Platz. COLOGNE \ Messrs. Gme. Tilmes & Co. CONSTANCE Mr. Fred. Hoz. CONSTANTINOPLE Mr. Alfred C. Laughton. Messrs. C. S. Hanson & Co. COPENHAGEN Messrs. H. J. Bing & Son. CORFU Mr. J. W. Taylor. I Messrs. H. W. Bassenge & Co. Mr. E. Arnold, Printseller. The Director of the Royal Porcelain Manufactory Depot. Mr. E. Richter, 4, Neumarkt. Messrs. J Seeger & Maeser. ^Madame Helena Wolfsohn, Schossergasse, No. 5. Mr. Moritz Meyer, Moritz Strasse. r Messrs. French & Co. Sig. Luigi Ramacci. Messrs. EMMie. Fenzi & Co. Messrs. Maquay and Pakenham. Mr. E. Goodban. FLORENCE J Messrs. Nesti, Ciardi, & Co. Mr. Ant°. di Luigi Piacenti. j Mr. T. Bianchini, Mosaic Worker. Messrs. P. Bazzanti & Fig., 1. Sculptors, Lungo l’Amo. Sig. Carlo Noccioli. { Mr. P. A. Tacchi’s Successor, Glass Manufacturer, Zeil D, 44. Messrs. Bing, Jun., & Co. Mr. F. Bohler, Zeil D, 17. Messrs. Sachs and Hochheimer, Wine Merchants. FRANZENSBAD. ... Mr. C. J. Hofmann. GENEVA Mr. AuGst. Snell. Mr. G. Eidenbenz. nvxrnA I Messrs. Granet, Brown, & Co. CrLLN UA j Messrs. G. Yignolo & Figi. Mr. A. Mossa, Croce di Malte. r’Tru’xr'T I Messrs. De Buyser Freges, Dealers in Antiquities, Marche au X Beurre, No. 21. GIBRALTAR Messrs. Archbold, Johnston, & Powers. Messrs. Turner & Co. HAMBURG Messrs. J. P. Jensen & Co. Messrs. Schormer & Teichmann. HAVRE Messrs. LouEnrN, Pbre, Fils jeune, and G. Capron. HEIDELBERG Mr. Ph. Zimmermann. HONFLEUR Mr. J. Wagner. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 5 MCCRACKEN’S LIST OF CORRESPONDENTS^™^*. INTERLACKEN.... JERUSALEM LAUSANNE LEGHORN LEIPZIG LISBON LUCERNE MADRAS MALAGA MALTA MANNHEIM ...... MARIENBAD MARSEILLES MAYENCE ........ MENTONE MESSINA MILAN MONTREAL MUNICH NAPLES NEW YORK NICE | NUREMBERG...... | OSTEND PARIS PAU PISA PRAGUE j QUEBEC ROME < ROTTERDAM SANREMO SCHAFFHAUSEN .. SEVILLE SMYRNA ST. PETERSBURG . THOUNE TRIESTE TURIN VENICE VEVEY VIENNA VOLTERRA WALDSHUTT ZURICH . Mr. J. Grossmann. Messrs. Imer, Tremp & Co. Mr. C. H. Schuh. Messrs. E. F. Spittler & Co. Mr. Dubois Renou, Fils. Messrs. Alex. Macbean & Co. Messrs. Maquay & Pakenham. Messrs. Thomas Pate & Sons. Mr. M. Ristori. Mr. J. E. Oehlschlager’s Successor. Mr. E. Bourgard. Messrs. F. Knorr & Fils. Messrs. Binny & Co. Mr. George Hodgson. Mr. Emanuel Zammit. Messrs. Josh. Darmanin & Sons, 45, Strada Levante, Mosaic Workers. Mr. Fortunato Testa, 92, Strada S*» Lucia. Messrs. Eyssen & Claus. Mr. J. T. Adler, Glass Manufacturer. Messrs. Claude Clerc & Co. Messrs. Horace Bouchet & Co. Mr. Philigret, 7, Place du Thd&tre. Mr. G. L. Kayser, Expediteur. Mr. Palmaro, Mr. Jean Orengo Fils. Messrs. Cailler, Walker, & Co. Mr. G. B. Buffet, Piazzale di S. Sepolcro, No. 3176. Messrs. Fratelli Brambilla. Messrs. Ulrich & Co. Messrs. Thompson, Murray, & Co. Messrs. Wimmer & Co., Printsellers, Brienner Strasse, 3. Messrs. Bleicher and Andreis. Messrs. Iggulden & Co. Messrs. W. J. Turner & Co. Messrs. Austin, Baldwin, & Co. Messrs. A. Lacroix & Co., British Consulate. Messrs. M. & N. Giordan. Mr. H. Ullrich. M.M. Mignon Freres, 9, Rue Paradis, Mr. John Conrad Cnopf, Banker and Forwarding Agent. Mr. A. Pickert, Dealer in Antiquities. Mr. Max Pickert. Messrs. Bach & Co. Messrs. Mack and Co. Mr. L. Chenue, Packer, Rue Croix Petits Champs, No. 24. Mr. J. Musgrave Clay. Mr. Bergerot. Messrs. Huguet & Van Lint, Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. Mr. W. Hofmann, Glass Manufacturer, Blauern Stem. Mr. A. V. Lebeda, Gun Maker. Messrs. Forsyth & Pemberton. Messrs. Plowden, Cholmeley, & Co. Messrs. Alex. Macbean & Co. Messrs. Freeborn & Co. Messrs. Maquay, Pakenham, & Hooker. Messrs. Spada, Flamini, & Co. Messrs. Furse Bros. & Co. Mr. Luigi Branchini, at the English College. Mr. J. P. Shea. Messrs. Welby, Bros. Messrs. Preston & Co. Messrs. C. Hemmann & Co. M. M. Asquasciati Freres. Mr. Fred Hoz. Mr. J ulian B. Williams, British Vice-Consulate. M. J. A. Bailly. Messrs. Hanson & Co. Messrs. Thomson, Bonar, & Co. Mr. C. Kruger. Mr. A. H. J. Wald, Bazaar. Mr. N. Buzberger. Messrs. Moore & Co. Messrs. J. A. Lachaise & Ferrero, Rue de 1* Arsenal, No. 4. Mr. L. Bovardi, Campo S. Fantino, No. 2000, rosso. Messrs. Freres Schielin. Mr. Antonio Zen. Mr. C. Ponti. Messrs. S. & A. Blumenthal & Co. Mr. Jules Getaz Fils. Mr. H. Ullrich, Glass Manufacturer, am Lugeck, No. 3. Messrs. J. & L. Lobmeyer, Glass Manufacturers, 940, Kamthner Sig. Otto. Sola ini. 4 [Strasse. Mr. Fred. Hoz. Mr. Honegger-Fugli. 6 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, FLORENCE. TELEMACO DI G. BIANCHINI, MANUFACTURER OF TABLES AND LADIES’ ORNAMENTS OF FLORENTINE MOSAIC, LUNG’ ARNO NUOVO, 1, AND BORG’ OGNISSANTI, 2 , TNYITES the English Nobility and Gentry to visit his Establishment, where may always be seen numerous specimens of this celebrated and beautiful Manufacture, in every description of Rare and Precious Stones. Orders for Tables and other Ornaments executed to any Design. T. Bianchini’s Correspondents in England are Messrs. J, & R. M‘Cracken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. BRIENZ — INTERLACKEN. J. GROSSMANN, SCULPTOR IN WOOD, AND MANUFACTURER OF SWISS WOOD MODELS AND ORNAMENTS, AT ZNTESLACKSU. TTIS WAREHOUSE is situated between the Belvedere Hotel and Schweizerhof, -LL where he keeps the largest and best assortment of the above objects to be found in Switzerland. He undertakes to forward Goods to England and elsewhere. Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London.- PISA. GIUSEPPE ANDREONI, Sculptor in Alabaster and Objects of Fine Art, NO. 872, VIA SANTA MARIA, WHERE A GREAT ASSORTMENT OF FINE ARTS, SCULPTURE, &c., CAN BE SEEN. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 7 GENEVA. F. GrRIYAZ, MANUFACTURING JEWELLER, No. 10, GRAND QTJAI. Only Proprietor of the celebrated Grotto de Topozes discovered in August, 1868, in the Mountains du Galan- stock, Canton d' Usi. An immense choice of Jewels in the first taste will be found here, and all the Oriental Stones mounted and unmounted. This house was founded in 1837, and is highly recommended by the nu- merous travellers who have visited it. CARY’S IMPROVED POCKET TOURIST’S TELESCOPE- (See * Murray’s Handbook.’) Manufacturer of all descriptions of Mathe- matical, Surveying, and Optical Instruments, for the use of Naval and Military Officers, &c. Also the new Binocular Reconnoitring Field Glass, in Aluminium of exceeding lightness and durability, so highly spoken of by officers and other gentlemen : from 1l. Is . ; ordinary metal from 2 1. 10s. Cary's improved Achro- matic Microscope, with two sets of choice lenses, capable of defining the severe test objects; from 4=1. 4s. Travelling Spectacles of all kinds. Mathematical and Optical Instrument Maker to the Admiralty, Trinity House, Royal Military College, Sandhurst, Royal Geographical Society, Christ's Hospital, Tri- nity House, King’s College, &c. ; and Optician to the Royal London Ophthalmic Hospital. GOULD & PORTER, Successors to CARY, 181, STRAND, LONDON. Established upwards of a Century. MUNICH. WXMMER & 0 0., GALLERY OP PINE ARTS. 3, BRIENNER STREET, Invite the Nobility and Gentry to visit their Gallery of Fine Arts, containing an Extensive Collection of MODERN PAINTINGS by the best Munich Artists, SPAINTINGS ON PORCELAIN AND ON OI-ASS, also a large Assortment of PHOTOGRAPHS, including the complete Collections of the various Public Galleries. Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M‘Cracken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. Correspondents in the United States, Messrs. Keller & Lingg, 97, Reade Street, Kew York. 8 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mav, FRANKFORT. P. A. TACCHPS SUCCESSOR, ZEIIi, So. 4L4L, BOHEMIAH FAMY GLASS AMB (CRYSTAL WAREMOUJSEo . P, A. TACCHI’S SUCCESSOR, Manufacturer of Bohemian Glass, begs to acquaint the Public that he has always an extensive Assortment in the Newest and most Elegant Designs of ORNAMENTAL CUT, ENGRAVED, GILT, & PAINTED GLASS, BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED, In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Candelabras, Articles for the Table and Toilet, and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful branch of manufacture. He solicits, and will endeavour to merit, a continuance of the favours of the Public, which he has enjoyed in so high a degree during a considerable number of years, P. A. Tacchi’s Successor has a Branch Establishment during the* Summer Season at WIESBADEN, in the Old Colonnade, Where will always be found an extensive Selection of the newest Articles from his Frankfort Establishment. Visitors to Frankfort should not fail to pay a visit to the Show Rooms of Mr. P. A. Tacchi’s Successor. His Correspondents in England, to whom he undertakes to forward Purchases made of him, are Messrs. J. & R. M‘Cracken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 9 COLOGNE ON THE RHINE. JOHANN M AR TA FARINA, GEGENUBER, DEM JULICH’S PLATZ (Opposite the Jiilich’s Place), PURVEYOR TO H. M. QUEEN VICTORIA; TO H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES ; TO H. M. THE KING OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF FRANCE; THE KING OF DENMARK, ETC. ETC., OP THE ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE, Which obtained the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition 0/I86L f jPHE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the most part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to request the attention of English travellers to the following statement : — The favourable reputation which my Eau de Cologne has acquired, since its invention by my ancestor in the year 1709, has induced many people to imitate it; and in order to be able to sell their spurious article more easily, and under pretext that it was genuine, they pro- cured themselves a firm of Farina , by entering into partnership with persons of my names which is a very common one in Italy. Persons who wish to purchase the genuine and original Eau de Cologne ought to be parti- cular to see that the labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Farina , but also the additional words, gegenuber dem Julich’s Platz (that is, opposite the Julich’s Place), without addition of any number. Travellers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned against being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties, who offer their services to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and shop are in the same house, situated opposite the Julich’s Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where, notwithstanding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly the half part of the price paid by the purchaser, who, of course, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a high price and a bad article. Another kind of imposition is practised in almost every hotel in Cologne, where waiters, commissioners, &c., offer to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine one, and that I delivered it to them for the purpose of selling it for my account. The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally at my house, apposite the Julich’s Place, forming the corner of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt and Oben Marspforten, No. 23, and having in the front six balconies, of which the three bear my name and firm, Johann Maria Farina, Gegeniiber Dem Julichs Platz. The excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact that the Jurors of the Great Exhibitions in London, 1851 and 1862, awarded to me the Prize Medal ; that I obtained honourable mention at the Great Exhibition in Paris, 1855 ; and received the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition of 1867, and in Oporto 1865. Cologne, January, 1869. JOHANN MARIA FARINA, GEGENUBER DEM JULICH’S PLATZ. %* My Agency in London is at Messrs. J. & R. McCracken, 38, Queen Street , Cannon Street , E.C, 10 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May. PRAGUE. WILLIAM HOFMANN, BOHEMIAN GLASS MANUFACTURER, TO HIS MAJESTY THE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA, HOTEL BLUE STAR, Recommends his great assortment of Glass Ware, from his own Manufactories in Bohemia. The choicest Articles in every Colour, Shape, and Description, are sold, at the same moderate prices, at his Establishments. Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. MCCRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C. Goods forwarded direct to England , America, tyc. FLORENCE. JOHN AGLIETTI AND SONS, ARTISTS, GROUND FLOOR, No. 15, VIA MAGGIO, Have a large Collection of Ancient and Modern Original Paintings, and also Copies from the most celebrated Masters. Copies, Carved Frames, Gilt or Plain, made to order, and forwarded with despatch to all parts of the world. Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M‘CRACKEN, of No. 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. VIENNA. The most extensive Warehouse for Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal Glass . J. & L. LOBMEYR, GLASS MAURFACTUEERS, No. 13, KARNTHNERSTRASSE. All kinds of Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal Glass ; Table, Dessert, and other Services ; Vases, Candelabra^, Chandeliers, Looking-glasses; Articles of Luxury, in Crystal Glass, mounted in Bronze, and in Carved Wood. They obtained the Prize Medal at the International Exhibitions of 1862 and 1887. The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges. — The English language is spoken. Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'Cracken, No. 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London, will transmit all orders with the greatest care and attention. 1869. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 11 ENGELBERG. HOTEL ET PENSION TITUS. CATLAIN, Proprietor. T HIS new Hotel is fitted out with every comfort ; containing 80 Beds, Ladies’ Sitting-room, Reading, Billiard, and Smoking- rooms. English, French, and German Newspapers. English Services every Sunday. The best starting-place for ascending Mount Titlis (18 miles); good guides, tariff 10 francs ; the same as at Engstlen (see Berlepsch). Very nice excursions on the glaciers of Uri-Roth stock, Schlossberg, and Grassen. HOTEL ET PENSION DE L’ANGE, BELONGING TO TEE SAME PROPRIETOR. Excellent Second-class Hotel. Clean and well-furnished Kooms at moderate prices. Warm and Cold Baths. FLORENCE. GRAND HOTEL ROYAL do la PAXX, LUNG’ ARNO NUOVO AND PIAZZA MANIN. Commanding a View of Bello Sguardo. Patronized by the Royal Family and H.R.II. the Crown Prince of Prussia in 1868. It contains one of the largest and handsomest Dining-rooms in Italy, constructed for the use of Balls, Banquets, and Concerts. Table d’hote in the same, at 5 francs, the Wine included. Rooms for Single Tourists, from 2 francs upwards. Large and small Apartments for Families. Omnibus at every Train. All the Servants speak English. Open all the Year round. A. DE SALYI, Sole Proprietor and Manager. 12 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, FLORENCE. MESSRS. OOSTA & CONTI, ARTISTS, ' No. 8, VIA ROMANA, Opposite the Museum of Natural History ( Specola . ), and near the Pitti Gallery. Messrs. Costa and Conti keep the largest collection in Florence of original Ancient and Modern Pictures, as well as Copies of all the most celebrated Masters. N.B. — English spoken. Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street. E.C., London. COLOGNE ON THE RHINE— HAVANNA CIGARS. A. G. JACOBI, 15, Fitzengraben, Cologne. -MESSRS. MAHLER BROTHERS and CO., 7, Mincing- TuL Lane, London, most respectfully beg to draw the attention of the English nobility and gentry to Mr. A. G. JACOBI’S well assorted Depot of real fine Havanna Cigars of choice brands, imported via London Docks direct from Havanna, at reasonable prices. Orders to all parts of Germany, &c., promptly attended to by A. G. JACOBI, Wholesale Department, 15, Filzengraben. Retail at Bruckenstrape, 5 C, in the centre of the town, between “ Disch*Hotel and the Glass Passage. VENICE. CARLO PONT I, OPTICIAN AND PHOTOGRAPHER, Who gained the Prize Medal at the International Exhibition of 1862, and whose House is acknowledged to be the first of its kind in the City, has opened a new and large Establishment in Piazza di San Marco, Procuratie Nuove, in addition to that which he keeps in the Riva dei Schiavoni, No. 4180, near the Albergo Reale Danieli. The Optical Instrument invented by him, and known under the name of the ALET0SC0PE, or MEGALETOSCOPE, has undergone such improvements as to render it (according to the judgment of intelligent persons) the most perfect thing of its kind, both for its simple con- struction and magnificent optical effects. Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 1 ROME. J. P. SHEA, ENGLISH HOUSE-AGENT, FOEWAEDING AGENT TO H.E.H. THE PEINGE OF WALES, 11, PIAZZA DI SPAGNA. At this Office persons applying for Large or Small Furnished Apartments invariably obtain correct and unbiassed information on all matters connected with Lodging-Houses, Boarding-Houses, and Household Management, while Low and Fixed Charges for practical services offer safe and satisfactory assistance to Proprietor and Tenant, as testified by the increasing confidence of English and American Travellers since the opening of the establishment in 1852. Plans and Lists of Apartments sent by Post to persons who wish to secure accommodation, or avoid inconvenience at the approach of Carnival or the Holy Week. AS CUSTOM-HOUSE AGENT, Mr. Shea clears and warehouses Baggage and other effects for travellers who, to avoid the expense of quick transit, send their things by sea or luggage-train, directed to his care. He also superintends the Packing of Works of Art and other Property intrusted to his care, and the forwarding of the same to England, &c. ; and being Agent for Messrs. Burns and Mclvers’ Italian line of steamers, can offer facilities on the freight of packages between Italy and England. CORRESPONDENTS- LONDON Messrs. J. & R. M‘CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C. Messrs. CHAS. CARR & CO„ 14, Bishopsgate Street Within. LIVERPOOL Messrs. STAVELEY & STARR, 9, Chapel Street. Messrs. JAS. MOSS & CO., 78, Tower Buildings. FOLKESTONE Mr. FAULKNER. BOULOGNE S.M Mr. BERNARD, 18, Quai des Paquebots. PARIS : ..Messrs. L’HERBETTE, KANE, & GO., 8, Place de la Bourse. MARSEILLES !. Messrs. GIRAUD ERE RES, 44, Rue Sainte. FLORENCE Messrs. HASKARD & SON. NEW YORK Messrs. AUSTIN, BALDWIN, & CO., 72, Broadway. OSTON Messrs. WELLS, FARGO, & CO. 14 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, GENEVA. NO. 2, PLACE DES BERGUES. GEO. baker, ENGLISH CHEMIST AND DRUGGIST, PRESCRIPTIONS CAREFULLY PREPARED. ALL KINDS OF PATENT MEDICINES & PERFUMERY. Homoeopathic Preparations. Soda and Saratoga Water. Medicines and Preparations forwarded with the greatest despatch and safety to all parts of Switzerland by Post. RO M E. 17 & 18, VIA DELLA MEECEDE. GEO. BAKER, ENGLISH CHEMIST, GENEVA, INFORMS the Inhabitants and Visitors of Rome that he has opened an Establishment at the above address, for the supply of English specialities and goods adapted for the use of Families at prices far inferior to those hitherto charged in Rome. N I C E/! PHARMACIE DANIEL ET C IE - QUAI MASSENA. GEO. BAKER, ENGLISH CHEMIST OF GENEVA, INFORMS the Visitors and Residents of Nice, that he has succeeded to the above old established and justly renowned Pharmacy, and that having associated with him Mr. GEORGE BUSBY, who for nine years past has been Assistant Manager of it, he hopes by careful attention and a moderate Scale of Charges, not only to maintain, but to extend, its ancient and well deserved reputation. 1889. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 15 VISITORS TO NAPLES. GENERAL AGENCY & COMMISSION OFFICE of the BRITISH LIBRARY ( Established in 1837 by Mrs. Dor ant), DIRECTED BY GEORGE CIVALLERI, Palazzo Friozzi, No. 267, Riviera di Chiaja. WORKS OF ART, GOODS, AND LUGGAGE forwarded to and received from all parts of the world, and warehoused at moderate charges of rent. BAN K BILLS, CIRCULAR NOTES, AND LETTERS OF CREDIT cashed free of commission. COUNTRY* WINES OF EVEEY DESCRIPTION, both in Bottle and in Cask, for exportation, at reduced prices. FOREIGN WINES, ENGLISH BEERS, TEAS, $c., IMPORTED. Agency Business of every description attended to; also the PURCHASE of LANDS, HOUSES, or VILLAS for the account of Foreigners. Correspondents in London — Messrs. OLIVIER & CO., 37, Finsbury Square. 12 , FLORENCE. IiTJITG-’ .A-ZE&lsrO IsTTJO'VO. MONTELATIGI BROTHERS, llfaiwfadnira d f\lmntxm Ifcaies. ASSORTMENT OF CASKETS AND ALBUMS. COMMISSIONS AND EXPORTATION. NASSAU. Seventh Edition, with Illustrations, Post 8vo., 7s. 6d. BUBBLES FROM THE BRUNNEN OF NASSAU. By an OLD MAN. JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. ESSENTIALS FOR TR AVELLI NG. Thresher’s India Tweed Suits. Thresher’s Kashmir Flannel Shirts. Thresher’s Kashmir Woollen Socks, Thresher’s Coloured Flannel Shirts, Thresher’s Travelling Bags, SOLD ONLY BY THRESHER & G-LENNY, NEXT DOOR TO SOMERSET HOUSE STRAND. 16 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT. O I •V I E Da Sc o o., 37, Finsbury Square, London, (Mr. Olivier established ih 1830,) COMMISSION MERCHANTS AND GENERAL AGENTS For Shipment and Reception of Goods to and from all Parts of the World , and IMPORTERS OF WINES, fc. /"OLIVIER & CO. Lave the honour to inform U VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT that they undertake to receive and pass through the Customhouse in London, Liverpool, Southampton, &c., WORKS of ART, BAGGAGE, and PROPERTY of EVERY DESCRIPTION, which are attended to on arrival with the utmost Care in Examination and Removal, under their own personal superintendence. They beg to call particular attention to their Moderate Charges, which have given universal satisfaction. Many Travellers having expressed a desire to know in anticipation to what expenses their Purchases are liable on arrival in England, the following Rates of Charges on the Reception of Packages may be relied upon, for Landing from the Ship, Clearing, Delivery in London, and Agency : — On Trunks of Baggage about 9s. each. On Cases of Works of Art, &c., of moderate size and value . about 15s. „ ,, ,, of larger ,, ,, 90s. to 95s. ,, On veiy large Cases of valuable Statuary, Pictures, &c., on which an estimate cannot well be given, the charges will depend on the care and trouble required. When several cases are sent together the charges are less on each case. OLIVIER & CO. undertake the FORWARDING OF PACKAGES OF EVERY KIND to the Continent, to the care of their Correspondents, where they can remain, If required, until the arrival of the owners. Also THE EXECUTION OF ORDERS FOR THE PURCHASE OF GOODS of all kinds, which, from their long experience as Commission Merchants, they are enabled to buy on the most advantageous terms. Residents on the Continent will find this a convenient means of ordering any- thing they may require from London. N.B. — The keys of locked Packages should always be sent to Olivier & Carr, as everything, although free of duty, must be examined by the Customs on arrival . INSURANCES EFFECTED, and Agency Business of every description attended to. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 17 OJLIVIER At Aix-la-Chapelle ,, Alexandria ■ , , Antwerp . , , Basle . . , , Bologna . ,, Bordeaux ' , , Boulogne . , , Brussels . , , Calais , , Cologne . , , Constantinople ,, Dresden . * , Florence . ,, Frankfort 9 y Geneva . , * Genoa , , Hamburg ,, Havre , , Interlocked , , Leipzig . , , Leghorn . ,, JfaZia ,, Marseilles Sc CO.’S principal Correspondent are — . Messrs. A. SOUHEUR and CO. . Mr. J. W. BROWNE. . Mr. F. VERELLEN BEERNAERT. Messrs. VLEUGELS and GUFFANTI. . Mr. J. J. FREY. . Messrs. ANTONIO MAZZETTI and CO. . Messrs. H. and 0. BEYERMAN and CO., Wine Growers. (Messrs. L. BRANLY and CO., 81, Rue Napoleon. * 1 Messrs. L. I. VOGUE and Co. . Mr. G. LUYCKX, 24, Rue des Fabriques. Mr. L. STEIN, 22, Montague de la Cour. . Messrs. L. I. VOGUE and CO. . Messrs. C. H. VAN ZUTPHEN and CO. Messrs. G. TILMES and CO. . Messrs. VALSAMACHY and CO., Galata. . Messrs. KRAETSCHMER and CO. . Messrs. HASKARD and SON, 4, Borgo SS. Apostoli. Messrs. W. H. WOOD and CO. . Mr. MARTIN BECKER, 5, Bleidenstrasse. Mr. MORITZ B. GOLDSCHMIDT, Banker. . Messrs. JOLIMAY and CO. . Messrs. G. B. PRATOLONGO and CO. Messrs. P. CAUVIN, DIAMANTI, and COSTA. . Messrs. JULIUS WUSTENFELD and CO. . Messrs. CHR. EGLIN and MARING. . Messrs. RITSCHARD and BURKI. . Messrs. GERHARD and HEY. . Messrs. HENDERSON BROTHERS. . Messrs. ROSE & CO. . Messrs. GIRAUD FRERES. , , Milan . . ,, Munich . ,, Naples ,, Nice . . ,, Ostend . , , Paris . . , , Pau . . », Prague . , , Rome . . y Rotterdam, 9 9 Trieste . , , Turin , 9 Venice 9 9 Vienna . Messrs. HORACE BOUCHET and CO. . Messrs. GIO. CURTI & FIG°. . . Messrs. GUTLEBEN and WEIDERT. ( Mr. G. CIVALLERI, 267, Riviera di Chiaja. ’ X Messrs. CERULLI &C0., 5, ’Vico Satriano a Cbiaia. [le Port. . Messrs. LES FILS DE CH. GIORDAN, Qua! Lunel, 14 (sur . Mr. J. DUCLOS ASSANDRI. ^ [Martin, 43. . Messrs. L ANGLO IS FILS FREJRES, Rue des Marais St. M. HECTOR L’HERBIER, 18, Rue de laDouane. . Mr. BERGEROT. . Mr. J. J. SEIDL, Hibemergasse, No. 1000. . Mr. J. P. SHEA, 11, Piazza di Spagna. Mr. A. TOMBINI. 23, Place St. Louis des Fran . Mr. ANTON POKORNY, Stadt Sonnenfelsgasse, 2. Any other houses will also forward goods to 0. & C. on receiving instructions to do so. Travellers are requested always to give particular directions that their Packag es are consigned direct to OLIVIER & CO., 37, FINSBURY SQUARE. PRICES OF WINES IMPORTED BY OLIVIER AND CO., AGENTS TO GROWERS. — o — per doz. duty paid. Claret, Shipped by F. Beyerman, Bordeaux 185., 245., 305., 365., to 1205 Burgundy „ Dumoulin aine, Savigny-sous-Beaune . 245., 285., 365., to 84s Hock & BSoseile, Jodocius Freres & Co., Coblentz . . 24s., 30s., 36s., to 120s, „ Sparkling, . „ . . 48s. to 60s Champagne 48 s. to 72s Marsala, in Qr. Casks, from .£11 ; Hhds. .£21 .... 26s. to 30s- Sherries, Pale, Gold, or Brown, in Qr. Casks, £15 to £35, delivered 42s. to 60s Claret, Burgundy, and Hock, in the Wood, at Growers’ Prices. Detailed Price Lists may be had of O. & Co., 37, Finsbury Square . j C 18 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, May* CHUBB’S LOCKS and SAFES. Paris Exhibition, 1867, SILVER PRIZE MEDAL. Dublin International Exhibition, 1865, PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED. CHUBB & SON, BY APPOINTMENTS, MAKERS TO THE QUEEN, AND TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES. flHUBB’S PATENT DETECTOR LOCKS, the most secure from \J picklocks and false keys, are strong, simple, and durable, and made of all sizes and for every purpose to which a Lock can be applied. Trunks, Portmanteaus, Travelling Bags, Dressing Cases, Writing Desks, &c., fitted with only the usual common and utterly insecure Locks, can have the place of these supplied by Chubb’s Patent without alteration or injury. Teavellers’ Lock-Pbotectors and Portable Scutcheon Locks for securing Doors that may be found fastened only by common Locks. CHUBB & SON have always in stock a variety of Writing and Despatch Boxes in Morocco or Russia Leather and japanned Tin ; the latter being particularly recommended for lightness, room, durability, and freedom from damage by insects or hot climates. Best Black Enamelled Leather Travelling Bags of various sizes, all with Chubb’s Patent Locks. Cash, Deed, and Paper Boxes of all dimensions, pHUBB’S PATENT SAFES v7 are constructed in the very best manner, of the strongest wrought iron, fitted with Chubb’s Patent Drill- pre- ventive and their Gunpowder-proop Steel-plated Locks, are the most secure from fire and burglary, and form the most complete safeguard for Books, Papers, Deeds, Jewels, Plate, and other valuable property. CHUBB & SON have also strong, wrought- iron Safes , without fire-resisting lining, but [equally secure in all other respects, intended for holding plate where protection from fire is not an object, and affording much more room inside than the Patent Safes. They are recom- mended specially in place of the ordinary wooden^cases for plate, which may so easily be broken open. B uenos ayres government certificate. Translation. We, the undersigned, at the request of Messrs. Jas. C. Thompson & Co., certify that the Iron Safes of Messrs. Chubb & Son, London, of which these gentleman are Agents, were exposed for several hours to the Fire that took place in the offices of the National Govern- ment on the evening of the 26th instant ; that in our presence they were easily opened with, their respective keys; that the moneys and important documents they contained were found in perfect order, and that these Safes are now in use in the National Treasury Office. — Buenos* Ayres 31st July, 1867. * (Signed) J. M. Drago, Treasurer of the National Government. F Jose Tomas Rojo*. Juan M. Alvarez. A true copy— A. M. Bell.. Complete Illustrated Priced Lids 0 / ClmWs Locks, Boxes, Safes, and other Manufactures,, * gratis and post-free. CHUBB and SON, Makers to the Bank of England, 57, St. Paul’s Churchyard, London, E.C. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 19 R AGr AZ LES BAINS, Canton de St. Gall. HOTEL TAMINA PENSION FOR FAMILIES. This First-class Hotel is recommended to all English and American Families for its great comfort. Hot and Cold Baths and Mineral Waters in the Hotel. It is very well situated for all kinds of Excursions. Pension from 15th September to 1st June. For information, and to engage rooms, apply to Mr. Jakle, Directeur of the Hotel. GENEVA. H 6 T E L~T> U LAC. Splendid view on the Lake and the Mountains ; opposite the Steamers. Especially recommended to families. Very reason- able prices. TABLE D’HOTE AT 12, 5, and 7 O’CLOCK. H. SPAHLINGER, Proprietor. MAYENCE. ♦ "i h6tEL D’ANGLETERRE. HENRY SPECHT, Wine Merchant and Grower. This first-rate and excellent Hotel (combining every English comfort), situated in front of the. Bridge, is the nearest Hotel to the Steamboats and close to the Railway Stations. From its Balconies and Rooms are Picturesque Views of the Rhine and Mountains. Galignani, Times , and Illustrated News taken in. The Table-d’Hote is renowned for its excellence, and for its Genuine Rhenish Wines and Sparkling Hock, which Mr. Specht exports to England at Wholesale Prices. '-20 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May> NAPLES, HOTEL DU LOUVRE, Kept by E. DONZELLI. npHIS new Hotel is beautifully situated on the Chiaja, enjoying “*■ at once a full and splendid view of the bay and of the Yilla Nazionale. It is fitted up in a luxurious style, combining elegance and comfort, and possesses all modern improvements of a first-rate establishment. HOTEL D’ ANGLE TERRE, Kept by the same Proprietor, also situated in front of the Yilla Nazionale, is well known and highly recommended for its cleanliness, the excellence of its Cuisine, and great attention paid to Travellers. LACROIX and FALCONNET, J. LACROIX, SUCCESSOR , WARRANTED WATCH MANUFACTURER, 2, BEL-AIR, 1st Floor, GENEVA. FRANKFORT O. M. MR. 0. A. LOHR, PROPRIETOR OF THE ROMAN EMPEROR HOTEL, Begs to recommend bis House to English Travellers. T HIS large and well-situated Establishment is conducted under the immediate superintendence of the Proprietor, and newly furnished with every comfort, and a new splendid Dining-room. The “ Roman Emperor ” is often honoured by Royal Families and other high personages. The following have lately honoured this Hotel — H.M. THE KING AND QUEEN OF WURTEMBERG. H.M. THE QUEEN OF HOLLAND. H.R.H. THE CROWN PRINCE AND PRINCESS OLGA OF WURTEMBERG. H.I.H. THE ARCHDUKE OF AUSTRIA. &c. &c. &c. Table-d’hdte at 1 , in. 30kr. Breakfast, „ ,, 5, 211. Tea, &2kr. , Bed Rooms, from 3>fl. to 1869. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 2T* PASSPORT AGENCY OFFICE, LONDON, 59, FLEET STREET, E. C. Regulations gratis for obtaining Foreign Office Passports- COUNTRY or LONDON Residents, \J who desire to avoid trouble, can, by for- warding a Banker's Application, or Certificate of Identity, have a PASSPORT obtained and vised. Country Residents, by this arrangement, are saved the trouble of a personal attendance, as the Pass- port can be forwarded to them by Post ( en Regie). Fee obtaining Passport, Is. 6 d . ; Visas, Is. each. Passports carefully Mounted and Cased , and Names lettered thereon in Gold. Passport Cases from Is. 6d. to 6s. each. Every Requisite for Travellers. THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS. BRADSHAW’S BRITISH and CONTINENTAL GUIDES and HANDBOOKS to France, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Normandy, Brittany, Tyrol, Paris, London, &c. Bradshaw’s Deary and Traveller’s Companion. Bradshaw’s Complete Phrase Books, French, Italian, Spanish, and German. Is. each. Bradshaw’s Overland and Through Route Guide to India, China, and Australia, 5s. Bradshaw’s Handbook to the Bombay Presidency and the North-West Provinces, Madras, and Bengal, 10s. each. Kellar’s, Lettthold’s, and Ziegler’s Maps of Switzerland. Mate’s Map op the Tyrol. Original Editions. Knapsacks, Rugs, Waterproof Coats, Door-fasteners, Handbags, Portmanteaus, Straps, Soap, Compasses, Drinking Cups, &c. Harper’s Handbook to Europe and the East. Phrase Books and Dictionaries, f Blank's Guides to England, Ireland, Wales, and Scotland. , Works on Health-Resorts, Climates, and Waters. By Edwin Lee, M.D. Experienced Couriers engaged upon application. . W. J. ADAMS (Bradshaw’s British and Continental Guide Office), LONDON, 59, FLEET STREET, E.C. Office Hours 8 to 7. Saturdays 8 to 3. mHE CONTINENTAL DAILY PARCELS EXPRESS (established 1849), ^ Sole Agents for England of the Belgian Government Railway and North German Postal Confederation, and Correspondents of the Northern of France Rail- way, CONVEY by MAIL STEAMERS EVERY NIGHT (Sunday excepted), via DOVER, CALAIS, and OSTEND, Samples,' Parcels, and Packages of all kinds between ENGLAND and all parts of the CONTINENT, at Through rates, including all charges except Duties and Entries. Homeward Parcels should be booked as follows : — ' In all Germany.— At any Post Office of the North German Confederation, or in connection therewith. Belgium. — At the State Railway Stations; or at the Office of the Agents in Ostend, De Ridder, 54, Rue St. Joseph ; Brussels, Ckooy, 90 Ms, Montague de la Cour. Holland. — In the principal Towns : Van Gend and Loos. France. — Paris: Pritchard, Agent of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Co,, 4, Rue Rossini. From the Provinces, Parcels should be sent under cover, with advice, to Mr. Pritchard. Outward to the Continent. — Parcels received at the Agencies in most of the large provincial towns, of which a printed list with tables of rates and full instructions to senders, may be had gratis, at Chief Office : 53, GRACECHURCH STREET, D. N. Bridge, Manager , to whom all communications should he addressed. N.B.— Amount of Invoices and out charges collected on delivery of parcels in Belgium, Holland, and Germany ; and persons wishing to obtain goods of any kind from the Continent can have them sent through this Express “Contre Rembouesement,” i.e. Payment on delivery. London , 1st May , 1869. 22 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, Stanford’s Foreign Office Passport Agency, 6 & 7, CHAEING CEOSS, LONDON, S.W. Passports (which are good for life) mounted on Muslin or Silk, in Roan, Morocco, or Russia Case, with the name of the Owner lettered on the outside, thus preventing injury or loss, as well as lessening the 'delay in examination abroad. For further particulars, including the Forms of Application, Cost of Passport, Visas, &c. &c., see Stan- ford’s Passport Circular, which will be forwarded per post on receipt of One Stamp. STANFORD’S TOURIST’S CATALOGUE, Containing Title, Price, &c., of the Best Guide Books, Maps, Conversation Books, Diction- aries, &c. &c„ published in the United Kingdom, the Continent, and America, Gratis on application, or free per post for One Stamp. London: EDWARD STANFORD, 6 & 7, Charing Cross, S.W., Agent for the Sale of the Ordnance Maps, Geological Survey Maps, and Admiralty Charts. GEN EVE. GRAND HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. HIS first-rate, splendid Hotel has the advantage of being the most pleasantly situated in Geneve, on the Quai du Mont Blanc, near the English Church, in front of the Steamboat Landing, and very near the Railway Station. From Hie Garden and two delightful Terraces, and from each window of the Hotel, Mont Blanc, the Lake, and the Town, can be seen in their fullest extent. Charges moderate. Table-d’Hote three times a day. Is the resort of the first English and American Families. MAYER & KUNZ, Proprietors. First-rate House , containing about one hundred large Apartments and Saloon for Families , having been lately enlarged . ENGLISH SPOKEN AND ENGLISH NEWSPAPERS KEPT. B ERLIN . BE 6 T E) R Tl o Y A. B . Proprietor: Mr. FRIEDRICH LANGE, UNTER DEN LINDEN, No. 3, and corner of Wilhelm Street. Situated in the most beautiful part of the town, near the Royal Theatres, the Museum, the Hotels of the Ministry and Ambassadors. Waterworks and Baths in the Hotel. Carriages. Dinners and suppers at any hour. Good English cuisine, and French restaurant in elegant saloons looking over the Promenade. Prompt attendance and moderate prices. The LANCET states— “This is Superior to anything of the kind known.” 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 23 Paisley, Manchester, Dublin, & London, This favourite article of Diet is especially suitable for PUDDINGS, OUSTAEDS, BLANCMANGES, and, being very light and of easy digestibility, it is recommended for BREAKFASTS, SUPPERS, &c., for which it is easily prepared, requiring only to be boiled with milk for, eight minutes. It is preferred for all the purposes to which the best Arrowroot is applicable, and prepared in the same manner. Por various purposes, such as to thicken Soups, Sauces, Beef-tea, &c., it is invaluable, and extensively used in all parts of the world, CAUTION. — To obtain extra profit by the sale, other kinds are sometimes substituted instead of BEOWN and PQLSOhPS, The First Manufactured in the United Kingdom and France. 24 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BONN ON THE RHINE. MR. SCHMITZ, PROPRIETOR OF THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL, Begs leave to recommend his Hotel to English Travellers. The apart- ments are furnished throughout in the English style ; the rooms are carpeted ; and the attendance, as well as the kitchen and the wine- cellar, is well provided. Mr. SCHMITZ begs to add that at no first- rate Hotel on the Rhine will he found more moderate charges and more cleanliness. The STAR HOTEL has been honoured by the visits of the following Members of the English Royal Family : — 1857. Oct. 16 1857. Ang. 20 1857. Aug. 8 1857. July 29 1857. July 29 1857. July 15 1856. Nov. . 1846. June 18 1818. May . . 1825. March and Sept. . 1834. July. . 1836. Aug. . 1837. July. . 1839. Nov. . — Nov. . 1340 1841 1841. 1844. . . . 1845. June . 1847. July { H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by General Sir W. Codrington, Colonel Ponsonby, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr. Armstrong, Rev. F. C. Tarver, Mr. Gibbs, etc. C H. R. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite paying a visit at the Golden \ Star Hotel to His Majesty the King of the Belgians. H. It. H. the Prince of W ales and his Suite. » C T. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Mary of Cambridge, I accompanied by the Baron Knesebeck and Suite. C H. R. H. the Prince of Wales paying a visit at the Golden Star Hotel to \ T. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Mary of Cambridge. { H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by the Right Honourable C. Grey, General Major, Colonel Ponsonby, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr. Armstrong, Rev. F. C. Tarver, Mr. Gibbs, etc. I H. R. H. Prince Alfred of Great Britain, accompanied by Lieutenant- ( General Sir Frederick Stovin and Lieutenant Cowell. I H. M. Adelaide, Queen Dowager of Great Britain, accompanied by His Highness Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar, Lord and Lady Bar- rington, Sir David Davies, M.D., Rev. J. R. Wood, M.A., Captain Taylor, &c. &c., honoured the above establishment with a Three Days’ Visit. H. R. H. the Duke of Cambridge and Suite. C H. R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Clarence (King William IV. and , } Queen Adelaide) and Suite. C H. M. Queen Adelaide, accompanied by the Earl and Countess of Errol, 1 1 Earl and Countess of Denbigh, Earl and Countess Howe, &c. , H. R. H. the Duchess of Gloucester and Suite. H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. , H. R. H. the Prince George of Cambridge and Suite. J H. R. H. Prince Albert of Saxe Coburg Gotha, accompanied by Prince ‘ ) Ernest of Saxe Coburg Gotha, and their Suite. c H, R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge, accompanied by the Princess Augusta > > of Cambridge, and their Suite. j II. R. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the ) Prince of Leiningen. H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. H. R. H. Princess Carolina of Cambridge. H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. H. R. H. Princess Mary of Cambridge. { H. R. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the ' ) Prince of Leiningen. { T. R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, with their Family and Suite. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 25 MUDIE’S SELECT LIBRARY. BOOKS FOR ALL READERS. FIRST-CLASS SUBSCRIPTION FOR. A CONSTANT SUCCESSION OF THE NEWEST BOOKS, One Guinea per ^.nnnm, COMMENCING AT ANY DATE. S BOOK SOCIETIES SUPPLIED ON LIBERAL TERMS. CHEAP BOOKS.— NOTICE. FIFTEEN THOUSAND VOLUMES OF BOUND BOOKS FOB, PRESENTS AND PKIZES. CONSISTING CHIEFLY OF WORKS OF THE BEST AUTHORS, AND MORE THAN ONE HUNDRED THOUSAND VOLUMES of Surplus Copies of other Popular Books of the Past Season, ARE NOW ON SALE AT GREATLY REDUCED PRICES., Catalogues postage free on Application . MUDIE’S SELECT LIBRARY, New Oxford Street, London. CITY OFFICE — 4, King Street, Cheapside. GENEVA. HOTEL DE LAk COUEONNE. Pkoprietor, Mr. F. BAUR. npHIS ESTABLISHMENT, of the first Bank, completely newly furnished throughout, situated in front of the magnificent Pont dn Mont Blanc, the National Monument, the Steam-boat landing, and the English Garden, enjoys a most extended view of Lac Leman and Mont Blanc. Every attention paid to the comfort and wishes of Families and Gentlemen, Active attendance, good cuisine and cellar. English and American newspapers. Tables-d’Hote 3 times a day. Omnibus from the Hotel to every Train. FLORENCE. BEIZZI AND NIC CO LAI’S Musical Establishment. PIANOFORTES, OiTtHE~ BEST MAKERS, FOR SALE AND ON HIRE. GENERAL DEPOT FOR WIND-INSTRUMENTS. Italian and Foreign Music. Musical Lending Library . PIAZZA MADONNA, I BRANCH HOUSE (Music Depot) PALAZZO ALDOBRANDINI. | 12, VIA CERRETANI. 20 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, FLORENCE. P. ROMANELLI, Sculptor, Pupil of, and Successor to, the late Professor Bartolini, has opened a Gallery, Lung’ Arno Guicciardini, No. 7. The intelligent amateur will find there a Collection of Statues, both originals and copies, artistically executed. Principal Works The Son of William Tell ; the Young Franklin ; the Young Wash- ington; the Young Whittington; the Young Napoleon; the Young Moses ; Garibaldi. OXFORD. SPIERS AND SON, 102 & 103, HIGH STREET, Respectfully invite TOURISTS to VISIT their Extensive Warehouses for Useful and Ornamental Manufactures, suitable for Pre- sents and remembrances of Oxford. Copies of every published Guide-Book and Map of the City and neighbourhood kept in stock. Also Photographs, Views, &c. Inventors and Manufacturers of the cele- brated “ Oxford Cyclopean Washstands.” Information relative to Oxford afforded to strangers visiting their establishments. GENEVA MUSICAL BOXES. B. A. BREMOND, MANUFACTURER. Prize Medal, Paris Exhibition, 1867. WHOLESALE. RETAIL. EXPORTATION. 7, RUE P It AD IE It, GENEVA, SWITZERLAND. LUCERNE. EHGLISCHEB HOP.— HOTEL d’ANGLETEBEE. Proprietor — JEAN REBEE. HIS First-rate Establishment, very- well recommended by the best class of ! Travellers, is situated close to the Steamers’ Landing-place, and vis-a-vis the Railway Sta- tions, , on the loveliest position of the Lake, with superb views of the Rigi, Pilatus, Alps, and Glaciers; contains several Saloons, 62 comfortable Rooms, Smoking and Reading Rooms, where are French and English news- papers. Charge for Rooms per diem, Ifr. 50c. to 3fr. Table d’Hote,' at 1 . . . 3fr. „ „ 4*30 • . 4fr. „ „ 7*30 . . 3fr. The * Times,’ * Galignani,’ 4 Vlndepen- dance ,’ the ‘ Bund,’ and other German, French, and American papers are taken for the Reading Room. a GALSGNANI’S NEW PARIS GUIDE. Compiled from the best authorities, revised and verified by personal inspection, and ar- ranged on an entirely new plan, with Map and Plates. Royal 18mo. 10s. 6d. bound ; or with Map only, 7s. 6 d. bound. London : Simpkin, Marshall, & Co. ROTTERDAM. H. A. KRAMERS, Importer of Foreign Books. Mr. Murray’s * Handbooks for Travellers, Bradshaw’s Monthly Railway Guides, Bae- deker’s ‘ lteischandbucher,’ and Hends- chel’s 4 Telegraph,’ always in Stock. English, French, and German Books im- ported Weekly, and a great variety of New Books kept in Store. 47, GELDERSCHE KADE. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 27 By Appointment to H.B.H. The Prince of Wales. 37, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES of 500 ARTICLES Post Free. ALLEN’S PATENT ALLEN’S PATENT ALLEN’S PATENT BAG. DESPATCH-BOX DESK. Quadruple Portmanteau. '< UMLW&I » SOLID LEATHER ALLEN’S NEW DRESSING PORTMANTEAU. DRESSING-CASE. ?NAG. ALLEN’S ALLEN’S SOLID LADY’S DRESSING BAG. MAHOGANY WARDROBE DRESSING-CASE. PORTMANTEAU. ALSO : Allen’s Barrack Furniture Catalogue, for Officers joining, Post Free. PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED, 1862, FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE. 28 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May. IRELAND. ANTRIM ARMS HOTEL, PORTRTJSH. THIS Hotel is beautifully situated, having an uninterrupted JL view of the Atlantic Ocean, the Giant’s Causeway, the Skerries, and Lough Foyle. It contains upwards of 100 Apartments, Principally facing the Sea. A NOBLE COFFEE-ROOM, with Drawing-Room attached, equally available for Ladies and Gentlemen. Table-d’Hote daily during the Season. Cuisine and Wines First-Class. Terms moderate. French spoken. Siliiard and Smoking Rooms. THE SEA BATHS, Recently rebuilt on the Hotel Grounds, by Mr. Brown, will be found to contain every modern improvement. Separate Apartments for Ladies and Gentlemen. Hot, Cold, Shower, and Donche Baths. The Superintendents in each Department being people of experience, visitors to the Baths may depend on every attention. Extensive Posting and Livery Establishment in connection with the Hotel. A Vehicle to the Giant’s Causeway and back daily during the Season. Tisitoi's to the Hotel are respectfully requested to be particular in inquiring for the ANTRIM ARMS HOTEL Omnibus. It attends all Steamers and Trains, for the conveyance of Passengers to the Hotel free. J. BROWN, Proprietor. Portrush is the nearest Railvjay Station to the Giant's Causeway. London and South-Western Railway, LONDON STATION , WATERLOO BRIDGE . The Cheap and Picturesque Route to PARIS, ROUEN, HONFLEUR, AND CAEN, Via SOUTHAMPTON and HAVRE. ; Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, the last Train from London at 9 p.m. for the Southampton Docks, alongside the Steamer. Fares throughout (London and Paris)— First Class, 33/0 ; Second Class, 22/0. Return Tickets (available for one month)— First Class, 50/ ; Second Class, 36/. JERSEY, GUERNSEY, AND ST. MALO, MAIL SERVICE, Via SOUTHAMPTON — The favourite Route . Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Fares throughout (London and Jersey or Guernsey) — 32/0 First ; 23/0 Second Class. Return Tickets (available for One Month)— 43 /0 First ; or 38/0 Second Class. The Last Train from London in time for the Steamers leaves at 9 p.m. for the Southampton Docks , alongside the Steamer. For further information apply to Mr. De Voulle, 3, Place Vendome, Paris. — Mr. Langstaff, 4 * 7 , Grand Quai, Havre. — -Mr. Enault, Honfleur. — Mr. E. D. Le Couteur, Jersey. — Mr. Spencer, Guernsey. — Captain Gaudin, St. Malo. — Or to Mr. E. K. Corke, Steam Packet Superintendent, Southampton. ^ t 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 29 MARSEILLES. GRAND HOTEL DE MARSEILLE. Canebiere Prolongee ; Rue de Noailles, 26. THE NEAKEST HOTEL TO THE RAILWAY STATION. WITH A SPLENDID VIEW. Two Hundred Bed-Rooms, from 2 francs and upwards ; Reading-Room, and elegant Drawing-Rooms. Baths and Carriages in the Hotel. The Hotel is under the same Management as the GRAND HOTEL DES COLONIES. Travellers are informed that they will always find at the Railway Station Omnibuses belonging to the Hotel, on the arrival of every Train. rr HE LONDON and WESTMINSTER BANK issues Cir- JL cular Notes of £10, £25, and £50 each, for the use of Travellers, payable in the principal Towns on the Continent of Europe, also in Asia, Africa, and North and South America. No expense whatever is incurred, and when cashed no charge is made for commission. Letters of Credit are also granted on the same places. They may be obtained at the City Office in Lothbury, or at any of the Branches, viz. : Westminster Branch Bloomsbury , , Southwark , , ! Eastern , , Marylebone , , ' Temple Bar , , Lambeth , , . . 1, St. James's Square. . . 214, High Holborn. . . 3, Wellington Street, Borough. . . 130, High Street, Whitechapel. . . 4, Stratford Place, Oxford Street. * . . 217, Strand. . . 89 & 91, Westminster Bridge Road. * May 1, 1869. Wm. EWINGS, General Manager. ATTRACTIONS OF THE NILE. Now Ready, with Woodcuts, 2 vols., post 8vo., 18s. THE NILE AND ITS BANKS : a JOURNAL of TRAVELS 1 in EGYPT and NUBIA, showing their Attractions to the Archaeologist, Naturalist, and General Tourist. By Rev. A. C. Smith. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 30 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, PARIS. HOTEL DES DEUX IONDES ET D’ANGLETERKE, 8, RUE D’ANTIN, Near the New Avenue Napoleon III., Tuileries, Place Tendome, and the Boulevards. mHIS magnificent first-class Hotel, recently constructed and -*■ elegantly furnished in the newest and most fashionable style, surrounded by gardens, justifies the preference accorded to it by Families and Gentlemen for the splendour and com- fort of its Apartments, its excellent Cuisine , and the care and attention shown to all who honour the Hotel with their patronage. LARGE AND SMALL APARTMENTS, AND SINGLE ROOMS, AT MODERATE CHARGES. PRIVATE RESTAURANT. SPLENDID COFFEE-ROOMS, SALOONS, READING AND SMOKING ROOMS. LETTER-BOX. INTERPRETERS. HORSES, ELEGANT CARRIAGES, OMNIBUSES FOR THE RAILWAYS. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 31 BERNE (Switzerland). MUSICAL BOXES, WOOD CARVINGS, &o., OF J. H. HELLER AT BERNE. Mr. J. H. HELLER of Berne, Manufacturer of the celebrated Swiss MUSICAL BOXES with all the latest improvements, and * Inventor of the greatest part of Articles with Music, Purveyor to several Courts, &c., begs to invite the Nobility and Gentry of England, travelling in Switzerland, to visit his well-known Establishment at Berne, where will be found^ the largest and richest Assortment of his celebrated MUSICAL BOXES, playing from 4 to 84 airs, with or without Chimes, Drums, Castagnettes, Celestial Yoices, Mandolines, Expressives, &c. ; 'also Swiss Chalettes, Necessaires, Photographic Albums, Glove-boxes, Work-tables and Boxes, Writing-stands, Letter- weights, Cigar-cases,/ Cigar-holder, Snuff-boxes, &c., all with Music ; Chairs playing when sitting on them, &c. Further, an extensive Assortment of Swiss SCULPTURES IH WOOD, Cuckoo-clocks, Drawing-room Clocks, Tables, Chairs, &c., as well as every possible variety of objects in this important and beautiful branch of Manufacture unattained by any other house ! , Mr. Heller's Correspondent and Sole Agent for Great Britain , Ireland , and the Colonies , is Mr. F. W. %EINTZ, 102, London Wall, E.C., To whom he forwards, exclusively, Purchases made of him. Mr. F. W. Heintz, Commission Merchant and Agent, will be happy to receive, deliver, or forward all Articles intrusted to his care. Musical Boxes, Wood Carvings, &c., in particular; which are, on arrival, attended to with the utmost care in examination and removal under his own personal superintendence. Mr. F. W. Heintz undertakes the forwarding of Packages of every kind to the Continent, also the execution of orders for the purchase of Goods of all kinds on the most advantageous terms. F. W. Heintz, 102, London Wall, London, Sole Agent to J. M. Farina, opposite the Altenmarkt, No. 54, at, Cologne, for his celebrated Eau de Cologne, which gained the Prize Medal awarded for excellent quality at the London Exhibition, 1862. 32 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, GENEVA. »o>© with Tea or Coffee and Eggs, 2 fr. REDUCED TERMS FOR A LENGTHENED STAY. Interpreters speaking all the European Languages. CHARGES MODERATE. THE TIMES NEWSPAPER. An Omnibus from the Hotel will be found at every Train. N.B. — Alterations and embellishments have been carried out in this Hotel which renders it one of the handsomest and most comfortable in Turin ; such as a noble marble staircase, a private staircase for servants, electric hells in all rooms, wooden door to grand entrance to deaden the sound in the Hotel, new carpets, &c. &c. PROPRIETORS — 1869.' ' : MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 35 VEVAY (Switzerland). H TE ONNET, Bit des 3 Gouronnes . Messrs. SCHOTT & CO., Proprietors, and Successors to Mr. Monnet. npHIS Large and First-class Establishment, situated close to JL the Lake, affords superior accommodation for Families and Gentlemen. It is extensively patronised for its comfort and cleanliness. Persons remaining some time will find this a most desirable Residence; and from October 15 to June 1 they can live here moderately en pension. HANOVER. UNION HO T E L. T HIS old-established and highly recommended First-class Hotel has been considerably enlarged and elegantly furnished this spring by the new Proprietor. The new dining salon, and a new coffee room, where a great choice of newspapers are kept, call forth the admiration of every visitor. The situation of the Hotel near the Railroad-station and the Theatre, its fine rooms, capital Table-d’hoteand excellent wines, added to the attention and civility displayed to all visitors, have made it deservedly popular. Persons residing for a week or longer are taken on moderate terms, especially in winter. LAUSANNE. 'JHIS Hotel Gibbon : Mr. Ritter, Proprietor. First-class Hotel, highly recommended in every respect, is situated in the best part of the town, and commands the finest and most extensive views of the Lake, the Alps, and the splendid scenery around Lausanne. The terraced garden adjoining the salle-a-manger is unsurpassed by any in the neighbourhood, and was the favourite residence of Gibbon, who wrote here his History of Rome. From the extensive Garden, which is tastefully laid out and attached to the Hotel, the view is most grand and romantic. In fact, this house will be found to give very superior accommodation, and to offer to travellers a highly desirable place of residence or of temporary sojourn. Pension at Reduced Prices during the Winter. LAUSANNE. Hotel Richemont: kept by Fritz Ritter. fFHIS Hotel is of the first order, worthy of the highest recom- **■ mendations, and in a situation of surpassing beauty. It is surrounded by gardens and promenades, and possesses the advantage of having three fronts facing the Alps. Reduced prices for protracted stay, and Pension during Winter season. D 2 33 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. HEIDELBERG. May; COURT OF BADEN HOTEL (. BADISCEEB EOF). MR. L. BIERINGER, PROPRIETOR. T HIS first-rate Establishment, situated in the centre of the town, at an equally convenient distance from the Railway Station and Castle, possesses the advantages of a beautiful garden, and is particularly renowned for its superior accommodation, excellent table, genuine Wines, cleanliness, and moderate charges. The English Church and Post-office are close by. Reading- room which is supplied with English and American Newspapers. Mr. L. BIERINGER, the Proprietor, who speaks English, as well as his attendants, is anxious to make travellers as comfortable as possible. Most advantageous arrangements are made for board and residence during the winter months. — (See “Murray,” page 531 . LUCHON (BAGNERES DE), PYRENEES. Grand Hotel Bonne-Maison et de Londres, Mr, VIDAL, Jun., Proprietor. S ITUATED opposite the Thermal Establishment or Bath-rooms. This favourite and first-rate Hotel affords extensive accommodation of the best description for a large number of visitors. It is delightfully situated, and will be found most comfortable for Families or Gentlemen. IVIOE. ALPES MARITIME S— FRANCE. GRAND HOTEL OH AU VAIN. ^HE largest and nicest Hotel of the town, situated all South, much frequented by the English nobility and most of the Americans coming to Nice. Newly enlarged by the addition of a splendid “ Atrium,” magnificent Ball and Concert-rooms, very fine Salons for Reception, and Reading-rooms — the best Table d’Hote of Nice. Charges moderate. MR. P. CHAU VAIN FILS, Proprietor. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 37 BADEN-BADEN. "V I O T O lEt I .A. HOTEL. Proprietor, Mr. PRANZ GROSHOLZ. 'PHIS is one of the finest built and best furnished First-class JL Hotels, situated on the new Promenade, near the Kursaal and Theatre ; it commands the most charming views in Baden. It is reputed to he one of the best Hotels in Germany. The Table and Wines are excellent, with prompt attendance and great civility. Prices very moderate. English and other Journals." LAUS-AJVIVE . i ~ ~~ HOTEL BELVEDERE. AT THE CORNER OF THE PROMENADE OF MONTBENON. KEPT BY MR. X. ROY, "UJ7HO has resided for many years in England. This Hotel is * * charmingly situated ; being elevated, it commands one of the finest and most beautiful views of the Lake and Alps ; Garden with Terrace and Baths. Arrange- ments made for long stays and pension during the winter season. Omnibus at every train and steamer. CHAUMONT (near Neuchatel, Switzerland.) HOTEL AND PENSION DE CHAUMONT, C. BITZMANN, Proprietor . rpHIS Hotel, exceedingly well situated for an extensive view -A of the magnificent Panorama of the Alps and the surrounding scenery, contains large and small Apartments, Saloons, Dining Rooms, Billiard and Reading Rooms. Private Suites of Rooms for Families. Bath Rooms. New milk and whey sup- plied on the premises. Leading country and foreign Newspapers. Telegraph Station and Post-office here. Moderate charges. lu cer ne" h6tel belle vue. "VTE W and magnificent Establishment, unrivalled in Switzerland ■hi as much for its fine situation as for the luxury and comfort of Apartments and Parlours. Specially recommended to English and American families. Open all the year. Moderate charges. FREIBURG- in Bresgau, Duchy of Baden. HOTEL SOMMER, Zahringer Hof, Newly built, opposite the Station; finest view of the Black Forest and the Vosges ; most comfortable and best house there. Baths in the Hotel, Proprietor, Mr. G. H. SOMMER. 38 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, ANTWERP. HOTEL ST. ANTOINE, PLACE VERTE, OPPOSITE THE CATHEDRAL. JJHIS Excellent first-class Hotel, which enjoys the well-merited favour of Families and Tourists, has been repurchased by its old and well-known Proprietor, Mr. Schmitt- Spaenhoven; who, with his Partner, will do everything in their power to render the visit of all persons who may honour them with their patronage as agreeable and comfortable as possible. BIARRITZ. HOTEL DE FRANCE, And the magnificent Maison Garderes. Proprietor, Mr. GAKDEBES. rjpHESE two first-class Establishments are delightfully situated on the Beach, in front of the Imperial Chateau, the Baths, and in the centre of the Promenades. They are furnished in a most superior style, with every comfort and convenience that can be desired by English or American Tra- vellers. Moderate charges. The Proprietor speaks English. Carriages for Excursions in the Pyrenees and Spain. Table-d’hote. * The Times ’ newspaper. 3869, MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 39 LUCERNE. h6tEL SCHWEIZERHOF. HAUSER BROTHERS, Proprietors. THE LARGEST HOTEL IN SWITZERLAND. ZBest Situation on the Quay, with splendid view of the cele- brated panorama of the Lake and Mountains. ^pHE high reputation which this establishment enjoys among A Travellers, and especially English and American families, is the best and strongest assurance of its superior arrangement and comfort. Its new immense Dining-Room, with adjoining Garden, Salon, and large Parlour, attract the attention rof every Visitor. Reduced Prices (Pension) are made for longer visits in the early and later parts of the Season. B ER L1N. HOTEL L’ANG-LETEERE, 2, PLACE AN DEB BAUACADEMIE, 2. ♦SITUATED IK THE FINEST AND MOST ELEGANT PART OF THE TOWN, Next to the Royal Palaces, Museums, and Theatres. Single travellers and large families can be accommodated with entire suites of Apartments, consisting of splendid Saloons, airy Bedrooms, &c., all furnished and carpeted in the best English style. First-rate Table- d’H6te, Baths, Equipages, Guides. Times and Galignani’s Messenger taken in. Residence of Her British Majesty’s Messengers. R. SIEBELIST, Proprietor. AMSTERDAM. T)BACK’S DOELEN HOTEL — Situated in the Centre of the Town, 13 and most convenient for Visitors on pleasure or business. It commands a splendid view of the Quays, &c. ; and, being conducted on a liberal scale, it is patronised by the highest classes of society in Holland. It is also much frequented by English Travellers for the com- fort and first-rate accommodation it affords, as well as for the invariable civility shown to visitors. Carriages for hire. Table-d’hote at half-past 4, or dinner k la carte. LUCERNE. QWAN HOTEL. — This Hotel, in the very best situation, O eDjoys a high character. Mr. HiEFELI, the Proprietor, has made in the later years 'a -great many improvements, and does his utmost to offer to his visitors a comfortable home. An elegant new Ladies' Drawing-room, besides a Reading-room and Smoking-room. Cold, Warm, and Shower Baths. 40 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. MARSEILLES. May, GRAND HOTEL NOAILLES, RUE NOAILLES, CANNEBIERE PROLONGED T HIS splendid establishment, the largest, most important, and most recent in? Marseilles, must be reckoned in the first rank of European Hotels, from its admirable position, from its splendid furniture, the number of its bed- rooms and sitting-rooms, the excellence of its cuisine, its cleanliness, and strict attention paid to travellers. . It is the only Hotel in the Rue Noailles which possesses a beautiful Garden full south, with 12 private Dining-rooms, and a magnificent Salle a Manger capable of accommodating 200 persons ; Drawing-room, Reading-room, Smoking-room, &c. Baths in the Hotel, private Carriages, Omnibus of Hotel at the Station, Tariff. — Chambers elegantly furnished on all floors, from 3 francs on the entresol • 5 francs 1st floor ; 4 francs 2nd floor ; 3 francs on the 3rd floor ; 2 francs on 4th floor. Table-d’hote richly ornamented and served with all the delicacies of the season, 4 francs ; § bottle of burgundy, 1 franc. Meals served a la carte either in the bed or sitting-rooms at very moderate prices. Dinners at fixed prices at all hours from 5 francs. Arrangements can be made to include a good Bed-room Breakfast, Dinner at table-d’hote, lights, and service, from 9 francs per day, according to the” Floor. Omnibus at the Station, 1 franc without luggage, 1 J franc with luggage. ~ ANTWERP. h6tEL De' L’EUROPE, Next to the Post Office. THE MOST AGREEABLE SITUATION IN THE TOWN. Formerly Hotel du Parc. THIS Hotel has beep rebuilt, a magnificent Salle a mavger added, as well as many Bed! 1 and Sitting Rooms, entirely new furnished and redecorated ; and the present Proprietor spares no exertion, to render it one of the most popular hotels on the Continent. Excellent Table-d’Hote. Hot and Cold Baths~ Stabling and Coach-House. English and French Newspapers. ANTWERP. HOTEL DE~L A PAIX. F the centre of the town, in close proximity to the Cathedral, the Exchange, Theatres, &c. This Hotel, formerly the HOTEL DES PAYS BAS, has been entirely rebuilt and newly furnished. No pains will be spared by the present Proprietors tc>' render it worthy of the patronage of the travelling public. First-class Table-d’Hdte.. Choice Cellar of Wines. English and Foreign Newspapers. • LAKE OF COMO, BELLAGIO. GREAT I^HITAIN HOTEL. L ARGE and Small Apartments, Reading, Billiard, 1 and Smoking Rooms, Baths in the Hotel and on the Lake. Divine Service according to the Established Church throughout the year. This Hotel is beauti- fully situated, enjoying at once a full and splendid view of the Lake and of the villas Melzi, Serbelloni, and Sommariva. The Hotel, having been recently enlarged, will afford every possible comfort to strangers during their stay on the Lake. Telegraph office in the Hotel. Proprietor: A. MELLA. 1869. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 41 M I L A N. G RAND HOTEL BE MILAN.’ — This Hotel contains Two Hun- dred Rooms for Single Persons or Families, furnished with the greatest care. Table-d’hote, Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, &c., private, at fixedjxrices, or a la carte? at any hour. Choice Wines. A comfortable ascending Saloon conveys visitors to each floor. Mr. Camille Gavotto, the new Manager, who has already intro- duced a great many excellent improvements, will spare no pains to render it more and more deserving the patronage of English travellers. Large and fine Music Saloon, with Piano, for ladies. Reading-room, Smoking-room, Foreign News- papers, &c. SWITZERLAND. ~ FALLS OF THE EHINE, near SCHAFFHATJSEN. HOTEL SCHWEIZ E R H O F (, formerly Hotel Weber). T HIS large and justly renowned first-class Establishment is under the personal management of the proprietor, Mr. Wegenstein, who spares no pains to render it agreeable and comfortable. Charmingly situated opposite the celebrated Falls of the Rhine and surrounded by a beautiful garden, with shaded walks. The apartments command splendid views of the glaciers and the beautiful scenery around. The air is very salubrious and healthy, the temperature regulated by the “ Rhine Fall Breeze.” Boarders taken by the week. Grayling and trout fishing. Croquet ground. Billiard and smoking-rooms. Ladies' Sitting-room. Reading-room, with “Times,” “Galignani,” “Punch,” “Illustrated,” “New York Herald,” etc., etc. On Sundays, English Divine Service in the house. WILDBAD. / H6tel Klurnpp, formerly Hotel de I’Ours, Me. W. KLUMPP, Proprietor. T HIS First-class Hotel, containing 36 Salons and 170 Bed-rooms, a separate- Breakfast, a very extensive and elegant Dining-room, new Reading and Conversation as well as Smoking Salons, with an artificial Garden over the river, is situated opposite the Bath and Conversation House, and in the immediate- vicinity of the Promenade. It is celebrated for its elegant and comfortable apartments, good cuisine and cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as an excellent hotel. Table-d’hote at One and Five o’clock. Breakfasts and Suppers a la carte. EXCHANGE OFFICE. Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for the payment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. . Omnibus of the Hotel to and from each train . Elegant private carriages, when required . 4-2 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, W I ESBADEN. FOUR SEASONS HOTEL & BATHS. PROPRIETOR, DR. ZAIS. T'HIS First-Class Establishment, equal to any on the •*“ Rhine, is in the best and most delightful situation in the Great Square, opposite the Kursaal, the Theatre, the Promenades; close to the Boiling Spring and the new English Chapel. This Hotel is the largest in the place, containing a great choice of SPLENDID AND COMFOETABLE APAETMENTS, for Eamilies and Single Travellers ; exquisite Cuisine and first-class Wines, combined with attentive service and moderate charges. TABLE D’HOTE at 1 and 5 p,m., and PEIYATE DINNEES. 'Numerous comfortable Bathing Cabinets , supplied with Hot , Mineral , and Sweet Waters . LUCERNE. HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. Proprietor — Mr. ED. ST RUB. *TVHIS newly-established Hotel is fitted up with every comfort, A and recommends itself by its magnificent view on the Rigi, Pilatus, &c. Beautiful Gardens. Pleasure Boats. Private Saloons for ladies and families. Smoking-rooms. Baths. Variety of Newspapers. Most scrupulous attendance. Moderate prices. (Reduced prices for protracted visits.) Omnibus at the Railway .Station. NEAR TO LAUSANNE. HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. SITUATED IN ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SPOTS OF THE LAKE OF GENEVA. Directeur, RUFENACHT. ~ HOMBOURG. TJ OTEL VICTORIA, close to the Springs and the Kursaal, is one of -11 the finest and best situated Hotels. A new Dining Salon, with a suite of Rooms with a fine view over the Taunus, have been recently added to the Hotel. The Proprietor, M. GUSTAVE WEIGAND, who has been for many years in first-class Hotels in London, offers to English travellers a good house, with every comfort. ExceUent Table-d*hote and good Wines, at moderate charges. Sponge Baths. N.B. — All kinds of Wines are exported to any part of England, particularly his exceUent Sparkling Wines (nice and dry, which are expressly prepared for England), called Victoria Sparkling Moselle and Hock. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 43 ENGADINE, GRISONS, SWITZERLAND. BATHS OF ST. MORITZ. 'Railway to Coire and Como . Daily Diligences to and from, Coire > *THESE BATHS, the highest in Europe, are open from 15th June to jL I5th September. The waters (acidulous-chalybeate) are superior in their beneficial effects, combined with the bracing mountain air, to the similar and celebrated waters of Schwalbach, Pyrmont, Spa, &c., in ail disorders characterised by a want of tone. The comfort and excellence of the Hotel Bathing and Drinking Arrangements are well known and univer- sally admitted. The spacious Boarding-houses have a covered communication with the steam- heated Baths and Springs. Church Service; saloons; telegraph. Good causeway and frequent carriage communication with the neighbouring village of ST. MORITZ, which has also abundant and comfortable accommodation. Romantic, scenery. Magnificent tours in all directions of the Alpine Valley, renowned for its sublime beauty, rich with glaciers and lakes. Perfect , durable , and unaltered conservation of the bottled waters in cases of 15 or 30 quarts {carriage free to Coire) at 1 0 Jr. and 18 fr.; 25 or 5b pints, 13 fr. and 23 fr. For a description of the Baths, see ‘The Principal Baths of Switzerland and Savoy, by Edwin Lee, M.D., London.’ Applications for rooms to be addressed, as much beforehand as possible, to the Director of the Hotel, and for bottled Waters to the Director of the Water Department. London Depots — W. Schacht, English and Foreign Chemist, 6, Finsbury Place South, E.C., etc,, etc. HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. rounded by private and public gardens, with the view of the Castle, and the very best situation in Heidelberg, enjoys already an European reputation. "Witlx En^lisli and American Papers. Reduced prices for protracted stay , and for the Winter Season. Chiavenna , and Colico ( Lake of Como). HEIDELBERG. A new, magnificent, first-rate Establishment, sur- READING ROOM, HJEFELI-GUJER, Proprietor. X 44 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, H E I DELBERG. . PRINCE CHARLES HOTEL. (In the Market Place, nearest to the Castle.) WITH THE BEST VIEW OF THE RUINS. ^THIS first- class Family Hotel, patronised by their Eoyal -L Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales and Prince Alfred, is without question the largest and best situated Establishment in the town for families and individuals who visit the celebrated Castle, or making a longer stay, being near all the attractive points, and at the foot of the Castle. It contains large and small apartments of all descriptions ; its rooms are light, airy, cheerful, and truly comfortable ; and the Hotel is conducted on the most liberal scale under the personal superintendence of the Proprietor, Mr. C. H. SOMMER. Superior Table-d’h6te at 1 p.m. and 5 p.m. Warm Baths in the Hotel. Reading-room supplied with London ‘ Times/ and ‘ Galignani’s Messenger.’ Two Dining-rooms (in one of them no smoking allowed). Fresh trout in the pond. Prices moderate. English spoken. NUREMBERG. HOTEL DE BA VIE HE (BAYEKISCHER HOP). T HIS old-established, first-class, and best situated Hotel, in the centre of the town, close to the river, contains suites of apartments and single rooms, all elegently furnished in the new style. It is patronised by the most distinguished families. English Divine Service during the season. Foreign newspapers. Carriages in the Hotel. Omnibus to and from each train. Moderate and fixed prices. x VI CHY-LES- BAINS. GRAND HOTEL DU PARC, Proprietor, ME. GEK'MOT, Opposite the Baths and the Park. A S in Paris and London, Vichy has its Grand Hotel. The Grand Hotel du Pare of Vichy, for comfort, elegance, and convenience, is equal to any of the large Hotels of Paris or London. Omnibus and Carriages at the Station. Separate Suites of Apartments for Families. DRESDEN. GRAND HOTEL DE SAXE. T HIS celebrated First-class Hotel, kept by Mrs. DORN and her SONS, has been recently enlarged and embellished. It contains 150 Front Rooms, with 200 Beds, and is situated in the centre of the town, at the New Square, in the immediate vicinity of all the curiosities. Table-d’Hote at one and four o’clock, in the splendid dining-hall first-floor. Carriages, Baths, Reading and Smoking Room. Arrangements for the winter. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 45 DIEPPE. HOTEL EOYAL, FACING THE BEACH, Close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade. TT IS ONE OP THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS A IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the Sea. Families and Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this Establish- ment elegant Large and Small Apartments, and the best of accommo- dation, at very reasonable prices. The Refreshments, &c., are of the best quality. In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion expressed of it in Murray’s and other Guide Books. TaUe-d’Hote and Private Dinners . N U REMBERG. RED HORSE HOTEL (Rothes Ross), Proprietor : M. P. GALIMBEXITI. T HIS excellent old-established Hotel, situated in one of the best quarters of the town, is well adapted for Tourists and Families making a visit to Nuremberg of some duration, and who will find every conceivable comfort and convenience. Table-d’Hote at 1 p.m., and Private Dinners at all hours. The Establishment will be found well worthy of the renown and patronage it has enjoyed from English travellers of the highest rank during many years. DIEPPE. HOTEL DES BAINS (MORGAN), F ACING- the Sea and Baths, of the Highest Class, quiet, thoroughly recommendable. A large private House also on the beach for Families. BRUXELLES. nPHB GRAND HOTEL DE SAXE, Rue Neuve, 77 and 79, is J- admirably situated close to the Boulevards and Theatres, and is the nearest Hotel to the Railway Stations. The Hotel is considerably enlarged, and has a new Dining-room which will contain 300 persons. Fixed prices: — Plain Breakfast, If franc; Dinner at the Table- d’hote, 3f francs ; Bedrooms, from 2 to 4 francs ; Service, 1 franc ; Sitting-rooms, 3 to 1 2 francs ; Steaks or Cutlets, If franc. Travellers must beware of coachmen and conductors of omnibuses who endeavour to drive them to some other hotel. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 46 May, CADENABBIA. HOTEL HE BELLE VUE. ’EHRST-KATE HOTEL, situated on the western bank of the Lake of J- Como, opposite Bellagio. Its position is delightful for its beautiful views and fine- shady walks along the shore, the whole length of the lake, shaded from the north winds. Cadenabbia, already favourably known, is rising into repute for the salubrity of the climate. It has the sun all day long in Winter. English comforts; moderate and fixed charges. Divine service in the Hotel. Tele- graph Office. N.B.— The best landing-place is the pier just opposite the Hotel. BARCELONA. GRAND HOTEL DES QUATRE NATIONS. IN THE IAMB LA. Kept by Messrs. FORTIS & CO. r rHIS is a first-rate Establishment, advantageously situated close to the Post-office and the Theatre, with a southern aspect, and newly decorated. Table d’hote; private service; large and small apartments; many fire-places; baths; reading- rooms ; Spanish and foreign newspapers. Carriages of every description. Omnibus at the Railway Stations. Interpreters. Moderate terms. FREIBURG in Breisgau, Duchy of Baden. DEUTSCHER HOF. ~ HOTEL D’ALLEMAGNE. EXCELLENT HOTEL $ PENSION. MODERATE CHARGES. *]VTR. REHFUS, the Proprietor, speaks English fluently, and willingly 1V1 gives best information about journeys to the Black Forest and Switzerland. H OM BU RCt HOTEL DES QUATRE SAISONS. MR. SOHLOTTERBECK, Proprietor. 9 HPHTS Hotel is of the first class, and enjoys a well-merited reputation. L it is situated near the Sources and the Cursaal. Excellent Table-d’Hote and Wines; the Proprietor is a large ^dealer in"; Wines; and endeavours to make the stay of his patrons as comfortable and pleasant as possible. ~ vichy -les- bainsT~ GRAND HOTEL VELAY BORTELET. Opposite the Baths and the Park . 'THIS Establishment, of the first-class, is particularly recommended L to distinguished visitors, as being the most comfortable of the locality. One Hundred Rooms, and Salons, are on the first floor. Large and fine Garden, with great trees and flowers. SEVIL LE (S P A I N)T~ XJ OTEL DE LONDRES. — This highly-recommended Hotel is situated on the Plaza Nueva, the most central and beautiful part of this delightful city. Tra- vellers will find here every accommodation for families and single gentlemen. Splendid dining-room, fine sitting-rooms, clean bed-rooms, and excellent attendance. French and English newspapers. Baths, carriages, Ac. English, French, and Italian spoken. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. MILAN, Hotel Cavour, Place Cavour, Just opposite the Public Gardens. KEPT BY J. SUARDI AND CO. T HIS first-rate Hotel is fitted up with every modern appliance, and situated in the finest part of Milan. It commands a fine view of the Promenade near to the Station, the Grand. Theatre, the National Museum, and the Protestant Church. Excellent Table-d’hote. Charges * very moderate. Baths on each floor. A Smoking and a Reading Room supplied with foreign newspapers. Omnibus of the Hotel at the arrival of all trains. Manager— G. VALLETTA. 1 N T E R LAC HEN. HOTEL DE BELLE VUE, Kept by Mr. HERMANN RIMPS. 'p'XCELLENT Second-class Hotel, very well situated, containing 3 -Li branch “ Pension Felsenogg with a fine Garden attached to it. Boarders taken in, per day 5£ francs during the months of May, June, September, October; and 6£ francs per day during the months of July and August. English, French, and German Newspapers* Omnibuses ; Private Carriages, and Saddle Horses. English spoken. INT ERLA KEN. ~~ Hotel and. Pension Jungfrau. Proprietor, Mr. F. SEILER. T HIS excellent Hotel is situated on the finest Promenade, and is surrounded with a large and beautiful garden, from which an extensive view is to be had all over the Glaciers. English travellers will find at this Hotel large and small well-furnished apartments, and rooms for families and single tourists. Moderate charges. NO RW AY. This day, 3rd Edition, small 8vo., 6s. A SUMMER AND WINTER IN NORWAY. BY LADY DI BEAUCLERK. With Illustrations by the Author. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. LUGANO, SWITZERLAND. HOTEL ET BELVEDERE DU PARC. Kept by A. BEHA. 'THIS first-class HOTEL contains 150 Sleeping-Rooms and A- Saloons, all elegantly furnished ; “ Salons de reunion ; an English chapel ; and one of the most beautiful Gardens in the country. The Hotel is very agreeably situated for the two seasons. During the winter the Hall and landings are warmed. Great improvements have been made since last year, by the addition of new Public Rooms, and numerous Apartments for Families, with every comfort desirable. 8 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. AMPHION (Haute-Savoie). BAINS D’AMPHION. THE ONLY BATH ESTABLISHMENT REALLY SITUATED ON THE BORDERS OF THE LAKE OF GENEVA, NEAR EVIAtT. > T HE Alkaline Waters of Amphion are of the same nature as those of Evian (according to the official analysis made of them); and are recommended to Invalids suffering from all kinds of diseases where Alkaline Waters are required. The ferruginous waters of Amphion, enjoying an ancient celebrity, are also strongly recommended in cases requiring the use of tonics. Three fine Hotels connected with the Establishment. Baths of all descriptions. Good attendance. Magnificent Park and Garden. Splendid view. Billiard and Conversation Rooms. Tele- graphic Station. Steamboats, &c. Persons remaining in the said Hotels have the free use of Baths, Saloons, Promenades, &c. Wl ES B DADEN. BLACK BEAR HOTEL AND BATHS* OTTO FREYSAG, Proprietor. " SCRUPULOUS CLEANLINESS, ATTENTIVE SERVICE, AND MODERATE " CHARGES. Central Situation— Close to the Mineral Springs, the Theatre, the Conversation House, and the Charming Promenades, Contains 140 Rooms and Saloons, elegantly furnished ; 60 neatly fitted-up Bathing Cabinets, spacious Dining-Rooms, and Ladies’ Parlour. Table SPECIALITIES OF GERMAN ARTICLES. Vienna Bronzes, Marquetry, Leather and Meerschaum Goods, Travelling Articles, Toilette Eeqnisites, etc., etc. SUPERIOR COPIES OF THE ARIADNE BY lDANNICKER. Genuine Eau de Cologne of Je%n Marie Farina , opposite the Julichsplatz . FIXED IPRICES. The Agents in London are Messrs. J. and E. McCracken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West. E 2 52 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, TIEEIEj NATIONAL PROVINCIAL BANK of ENGLAND ESTABLISHED IN THE YEAR 1833. Head Office— BISHOPSG ATE STREET, corner of THREADNEEDLE STREET. St James’ Branch— 14, WATERLOO PLACE, PALL MALL. St. Marylebone „ 28, BAKER STREET. Islington „ 173, UPPER STREET. Capital. SUBSCRIBED CAPITAL PAID-UP CAPITAL RESERVE FUND No. of SHAREHOLDERS £ 2 , 100,000 0 0 1,080,000 0 0 259,706 3 2 2,266. Bivttiaxg. Right Hon. Lord Ernest Augustus Charles Bbudenell Bruce, M.P., (7, St. George’s Place, Hyde Park Corner, S.W. John Oliver Hanson, Esq., Great Winches- ter Street, and 4, Dorset Square. Jokn Kingston, Esq., 6, Crosby Square. Henry M’Chlery, Esq., 16, Leadenhall Street. William James Maxwell, Esq., Rich- mond, Surrey, S.W. Henry Paull, Esq., M.P., 33, Devonshire Place, Portland Place, W. Sir James Sibbald David Scott, Bart., 30> Hyde Park Square. Richard Blaney Wade, Esq., 58, Upper Seymour Street, Portman Square, W. Hon. Eliot Thomas Yorke, 124, Park Street, Grosvenor Square, W. Duncan Macdonald, Esq., Weybank Lodge, Guildford, Surrey, and 21, Birchin Lane. George Hanbury Field, Esq., Oakfield, Kent. Alex. Robertson, Esq., 20, Grafton Street, Berkeley Square, W., and the College, Elgin, N.B. The National Provincial Bank of England, having numerous branches in England and Wales, as well as agents and correspondents at home and abroad, affords great facilities to parties transacting Banking business with it in London. Customers keeping accounts with the Bank in town may have moneys paid to their credit at its various branches, and remitted free of charge. Current accounts conducted at the Head Office and Metropolitan Branches on the usual terms of London Banks. Deposits at interest received in London of sums of 10Z. and upwards, for which receipts are granted, called “Deposit Receipts;” and interest allowed according to the value of money from time to time advertised by the Bank in the newspapers. The Agency of Country and Foreign Banks, whether Joint Stock or Private, is undertaken. Purchases and Sales effected in all British and Foreign Stocks ; and Dividends, Annuities, received for customers. Circular Notes and Letters of Credit are issued for the use of Travellers on the Continent aad elsewhere. The Officers of the Bank are bound to secrecy as regards the transactions of its customers. Copies of the last Annual Report of the Bank, Lists of Shareholders, Branches, Agents, and Correspondents, may be had on application at the Head Office, and at any of the Bank’s Branches. By order of the Directors, E. ATKINSON, ? Joint WM. HOLT, 5 General Managers, 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. , 53 PENZANCE, CORNWALL. MOUNT’S BAY HOUSE, ESPLANADE, PENZANCE, CORNWALL, Has been erected and fitted up expressly as a S E AS I D E FAMILY HOTEL & SUPERIOR LODGING-HOUSE. TJO expense or labonr lias been spared by tbe Proprietor* •*.1 The house is furnished in the most modem style, is well supplied with Ho£ and Cold Baths, and replete with every accommodation suitable for Tourists to West Cornwall. All the Drawing Booms command an uninterrupted and unsurpassed \ iew of that * Beauteous gem set in the silver sea/ St. Michael's Mount, and the whole of the magnificent Bay. Invalids will find in Mount's Bay House the comforts of a home, while the beauty and salubrity of the situation, and its nearness to the charming walks o® the sea-shore, render it a healthy and delightful residence. Suites of apartments for families of distinction. Choice Wines and Ales. Post Horses and Carriages. Charges moderate. E. LAVIN', Proprietor. STOCKHOLM. BLANCH’S CAFE. PROPRIETOR - MR. TH. BLANCH. mHIS new, magnificent, first-rate Establishment is situated in tbe centre of tbe Town, in tbe Kungstradgarden (Place of Charles XIII.) CONCERT EVERY DAY. READING ROOM, WITH THE BEST ENGLISH, FRENCH, GERMAN, AN® SWEDISH PERIODICALS. 54 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, VENICE. GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA. (Formerly REGINA D’INGHILTERRA.) ROBERT ETZENSBERGER, Manager. rFHE largest and finest Hotel in Venice, most conveniently situated near the Piazza S. Marco and the principal Theatres. 180 Bed- rooms, Private Sitting-rooms, Reading-room, with Piano, Billiard-room, and Smoking-room. Baths of every description, great comfort and cleanliness. Service on the Swiss system. Charges more moderate than in any other first-class Hotel. Arrangements for Pension. English spoken by all the Servants. CONSTANTINOPLE. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. JAMES MISSIRIE, Proprietor. fFHIS long-established and well-known Hotel, situated in A the GRAND RUE DE PERA, commanding a magnificent view of the UNRIVALLED BOSPHORUS, is replete with every comfort and convenience for the Accommodation of Families and Tourists. A Select Table d’Hote. In consequsnce of the largely increasing number of Visitors to the OTTOMAN CAPITAL, from the facility with which it can now be reached from all parts of Europe, and Passengers who select this agreeable Route to and from INDIA and the EAST, it is requested that Families desirous of securing Rooms telegraph or write in anticipation. Every attention will be paid to instructions thus transmitted. CAREFULLY SELECTED INTERPRETERS FOR ALL LANGUAGES. The Attendants and Boats of the Hotel await the arrival of the Steamers , 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 55 TO CONTINENTAL TRAVELLERS. DORRELL & SON’S PASSPORT AGENCY, 15, CHARING CRO SS, S.W. Every Information given respecting Travelling on the Continent. French and Italian spoken, and Correspondence carried on in either Language. British Subjects visit- ing the Continent will save trouble and expense by obtaining their Pass- ports through the above Agency. No personal (attendance is required, and country residents may have their Pass- ports forwarded through the post. A ‘Passport Prospectus,’ containing every particular in de- Fee , Obtaining Passport , Is .; Visas , Is. each . Vases , is. tail, by post, on applica- tion. Passports Mounted, and enclosed in Cases, with the name of the bearer impressed in gold on the outside ; thus af- fording security against injury or loss, and pre- venting delay in the frequent examination of the Passport when tra- velling. 6 d . to 5s. each . THE LATEST EDITION^J^JMURRAY’S HANDBOOKS. English and Foreign Stationery, Dialogue Books. Couriers’ Bags, Pocket- books and Purses of every description, Travelling Inkstands, and a va- riety of other Articles useful for Travellers. THE ATHENAE UM. EVERY SATURDAY, OF ANY BOOKSELLER OR NEWS AGENT, PRICE THREEPENCE. Each Half - Yearly Volume complete in itself, with Title-Page and Index . THE ATHEMUM JOURNAL OF ENGLISH AND FOREIGN LITERATURE, SCIENCE, AND THE FINE ARTS. Contains : — Reviews of every important New Book — Reports of the Learned Societies — Authentic Accounts of Scientific Voyages and Expeditions — Foreign Correspondence on Subjects relating to Literature, Science, and Art — Criticisms on Art, Music, and the Drama — Biographical Notices of distinguished Men — Original Papers and Poems — Weekly Gossip. THE ATHENiETJM is so conducted that the reader, however distant, is, in respect to Literature, Science, and Art, on an equality in point of information with the best-informed circles of the Metropolis. Subscription for Twelve Months, 13s. ; Six Months, 6s. 6d. If required to be sent by Post, the Postage extra. Office for Advertisements— 20, WELLINGTON STREET, STRAND, LONDON, W.C. 56 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS. THE ORIGINAL AGENCY ESTABLISHED 1832. 440, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. Patronized by the Nobility and General Travelling Public. G ENTLEMEN and Families going abroad are respectfully informed that Couriers and Travelling Servants for all Countries, and of the highest character and experience, may as heretofore always be engaged at the above Agency, where none are recommended again who have not given entire satisfaction to their previous employers, thus ensuring to parties about to travel who may honour the agency with their patronage, the greatest amount of usefulness, civility, and respect from those whom they may employ through it. MURRAY’S AND ALL THE OTHER GUIDES, MAPS, DICTIONARIES, DIALOGUES, GRAMMARS, &c.. For All Countries. PORTMANTEAUX, HAT-CASES, and all sorts of TRAVELLING BAGS, And all the Requisites for Travellers, are kept on sale at LEE & CARTERS ORIGINAL GUIDE. AND TRAVELLERS’ DEPOT, 440, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. ( nearly opposite the Charing Cross Railway ) , WHERE ALL .INFORMATION ABOUT PASSPORTS, ROUTES ETC. CAN ALWAYS BE OBTAINED. 4 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 5T JOSEPH GILLOTT’S CELEBRATED STE EL PE NS. Sold by all Dealers throughout the World. Every Packet bears the Fac-simile of his Signature, 58 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, RECENT TRAVELS. REMINISCENCES OF ATHENS AND THE MOREA: Extract from a Journal of Travels in Greece. By the late Earl of Carnarvon, Author of ‘ Portugal and Gallicia.’ With Map, Crown 8 vo., 7s Gd. RESEARCHES IN THE HIGHLANDS OF TURKEY, Including Visits to Mounts Ida, Athos, Olympus, and Pelion, and to tlie Mirdite Albanians, and other remote Tribes ; with Notes on the Ballads, Tales, and Classical Superstitions of the [Modern Greek. By Rev. Henry Fanshawe Tozer, M.A., F.R.G.S., Tutor and late Fellow of Exeter College, Oxford. With Map and Illustrations, 2 vols., crown 8vo., Ms. LAST WINTER IN THE UNITED STATES. Being Table Talk collected during a Tour through the late Southern Confederation, the Far West, the Rocky Mountains, &c. &c. By F. Barham Zincke, Chaplain in Ordinary to the Queen. Post 8vo., 10s. 6d. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. GENEVA. L. TISSOT and 00., Watch Manufacturers, 19, EUE DU RHONE, GENEVA. CHRONOMETERS AND WATCHES OF HIGH ACCURACY. GENEVA. JOURNAL RES ETRANGERS. GIVING a List of Strangers travelling to Geneva, Lausanne, Fribourg, Montreux, Vevey, and the rest of Switzerland. Advertising Agency, VERESOFF and GARRIGUES, Place Bel Air, Geneva. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 59 BOOKS AND MAPS FOR TRAVELLERS. Travels in Bashan and the Central Caucasas, including Ascents of Kazbek and Elbruz and a Visit to Ararat and Tabriz. By Douglas W. Fkeshfield, Esq. In One Volume, with Maps and Illustrations. [Vow Ready. Cadore, or Titian’s Country. By Josiah Gilbert, one of the Authors of the ‘ Dolomite Mountains, or Excursions through Tyrol, Carinthia, Car- niola, and Friuli/ In One Volume, with numerous Illustrations and a Facimile of Titian’s Original Design for his Picture of the Battle of Cadore. [Nearly Ready. The Alpine Guide. By John Ball, M.B.I.A., late President of the; Alpine Club. With Maps, Panoramas of Summits, and other Illustrations. Three Parts or Volumes, post 8 vo. : — Guide to the Eastern Alps, price 10s. 6 d. Guide to the Western Alps, including Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa, Zermatt, &c., price 6s. 63. Guide to the Central Alps, including all the Oberland District, price 7s. Gd. Introduction on Alpine Travelling in general and on the Geology of the Alps. Price' One Shilling. Each of the Three Volumes or Parts of the Alpine Guide may be had with this Introduction prefixed, price One Shilling extra. Map of the Valpelline, the Val Tournanehe, and the Southern Valleys of the Chain of MONTE ROSA, from an actual Survey in 1865-1866. By A. Adams-Reilly, F.R.GJ3, M.A.C. ln Chromodithograpliy, on extra stout Drawing Paper, 25 inches by 14 inches, price 6s. To be had also mounted on Canvas, folded and jointed, for Pocket or Knapsack, price 7s. 63. Map of the Chain of Mont Blanc, from an Actual Survey in 1863-1864. By A. Adams-Reilly, F.R.G.S., M.A.C. In Chromo. lithography on extra stout Drawing Paper 28 inches by 17 inches, price 10s. To be had also mounted on Canvas, in a folding case, price 12s. 63. Guide to the Pyrenees, for the Use of Mountaineers. By Charles Packe. Second Edition, corrected ; with Frontispiece and Map, and an Appendix. Crown 8vo., price 7 s. 63. Pictures in Tyrol and Elsewhere, from a Family Sketch- Book. By the Author of £ A Voyage en Zigzag, &c.’ Second Edition, revised ; with 62 Lithographic Plates of Illustrations, containing 113 Sketches. Small quarto, price 21s. Roma Sotteranea ; or, an Account of the Roman Cata- combs, and especially of the Cemetery of St. Callixtus. Compiled from the Works of Commendatore G. B. de Rossi, with the consent of the Author, by the Rev. J. S. Northcote, D.D., and the Rev. W. R. Brown low. With numerous Engravings on Wood, 10 Lithographs, 10 Plates in Chromo-lithography, and an Atlas of Plans, al I executed in Rome under the Author’s superintendence for this Translation. In One- Volume, 8 vo. [Nearly ready LONDON : LONGMANS, GREEN & CO., PATERNOSTER ROW. 60 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, HANDBOOK OF ARCH/EOUOGY. 8 vo., Illustrated, bound in half roan, 15s., TRAVELLERS’ ART COMPANION TO THE MUSEUMS AND ANCIENT REMAINS OP ITALY, GREECE and EGYPT. By HODDER M. WESTROPP. * So convenient and attractive a volume ought to tempt travellers to- systematize their impressions, and not be contented to ramble through temples and galleries without carrying; away any better result than an ignorant succession of images hastily impressed on the retina", and destined to vanish as quickly as they came. Mr. Westropp has condensed into a small space an immense mass of useful information about architecture, sculpture, paintings, and gems, so that his book is a complete encyclopaedia of ancient art / — Pall Mall Gazette . BELL AND DALDY. Second Edition, 8vo., price 14s., POMPEII; ITS HISTORY, BUILDINGS, AND ANTIQUITIES. AN ACCOUNT OF THE CITY, With a full Description of the Remains and of the Recent Excavations, and also an Itinerary for Visitors. Edited by T. H. DYER, LL.D. Illustrated with nearly 300 Wood Engravings, a large Map and a , Plan of the Forum. BELL AND DALDY. ANDERMATT, ST. GOTTHARDT. HERR NAGEL-DONAZIANS Has for disposal the choicest Animals, Birds, Eggs, Minerals and Plants of this rich district. Single specimens or characteristic collections may be had, and the greatest attention will be given to foreign orders. A few old and rare pictures. GENEVA. A. MAUCHAIN, 32 Grand Quai. MANTJFA CTUBER OF SWISS WOOD CARVINGS, ALSO A VERY LARGE CHOICE OF ALL KINDS OP MUSICAL SURPRISES IN CARVED WOODS. 4 MEDALS. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 61 THE FURNISHING OF BED-ROOMS. HEAL & SON have observed for some time that it would be advantageous to their Customers to see a much larger selection of Bed-room Furniture than is usually displayed, and that to judge properly of the style and effect of the different descriptions of Furniture, it is necessary that each description should be placed in a separate room. They have therefore erected large and additional Show-rooms, by which they are enabled not only to extend their show of Iron, Brass, and Wood Bedsteads, and Bed-room Furniture, beyond what they believe has ever been attempted, but also to provide several small rooms for the pur- pose of keeping complete suites of Bed-room Furniture in the different styles. Japanned Deal Goods may be seen in complete suites of five or six different colours, some of them light and ornamental, and others of a plainer decrip tion. Suites of Stained Deal Gothic Furniture, Polished Deal, Oak, and Walnut, are also set apart in separate rooms, so that customers are able to see the effect as it would appear in their own rooms. The Stock of Mahogany Goods for the better Bed-rooms, and Japanned Goods for plain and Servants’ use, is very greatly increased, the whole forming as complete an assortment of Bed- room Furniture as they think can possibly be desired. HEAL AND SON’S ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF BEDSTEADS, BEDDING, & BED-ROOM FURNITURE, SENT FREE BY POST. 196, 197, 198, TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD. 62 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT. CHARLES CARR & CO., 14, BISHOPSGATE STBEET WITHIN, LONDON, E.O. (Mr. CARR, late of the Firm of OLIVIER $ CARR),' COMMISSION MERCHANTS, Agents for Shipment and Reception of Goods to and from all Parts of the World, WINE MERCHAN TS, &c. /CHARLES CARR & CO., have the honour to inform ^ VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT, that they undertake to receive and pass through the Custom House WORKS of Art, BAGGAGE, and PROPERTY of EVERY DESCRIPTION; which are attended to on arrival with the utmost Care in Examination and Removal, under their Personal Superintendence, and at very Moderate Charges, of which the following may he taken as a guide : — Landing from the Ship, Clearing, Delivery in London, and Agency — , On Trunks of Baggage about 9s. each. On Cases of Works of Art, of moderate size and value . about 15s, On Large and Valuable Cases, according to care and trouble required. On several Cases sent together , the charges are less on each . CHARLES CARR & CO. undertake the FORWARDING OP PACKAGES OF EVERY KIND to the care of their Correspondents, where they can remain, if required, until the arrival of the owners. Also THE EXECUTION of ORDERS for the PURCHASE of GOODS, which from their knowledge of all the markets they are enabled to buy on the most advantageous terms. N.B. — Keys of all locked Packages should always be sent, as everything, although free of duty, must he examined by the Customs on arrival. INSURANCES EFFECTED, AND AGENCY BUSINESS OF EVERY i DESCRIPTION ATTENDED TO. 3 Mr. C . CARR having had many years 9 experience in all the above branches of business , can with confidence assure those who will kindly favour him with their support , that their interests will be well cared for in the hands of his firm. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 6$ CHAS. CARR & CO.’S principal Correspondents are- — At Aix-la- Chagelle „ Alexandria . „ Antwerp . . „ Basle . . . „ Bologna . . „ Bordeaux . . „ Boulogne . . „ Brussels . . „ Calais . . . „ Cologne . . „ Constantinople „ Dresden . . „ Florence . . „ Frankfort „ Geneva . . „ Genoa , . . „ Hamburg . . ! „ Havre . . . „ Interlacken . „ Leipzig . . „ Leghorn . . JfaZto . . . „ Marseilles . . „ Milan . . . „ Munich, . . „ Naples . . „ Nice . . . „ Ostend . . „ Paris r. . . „ Paw . . . „ Prague . . „ Powe . . . „ JRotterdani „ Trieste . . „ Turin . . . „ Venice . . „ Vienna Messrs. A. SOUHER and CO. Mr. J. W. BROWNE. Mr. F. VERELLEN BEERNAERT. Messrs. YLEUGELS and GUFF ANTI. Mr. J. J. FREY. Messrs. ANTONIO MAZZETTI and CO. Messrs. ALBRECHT et FILS. Messrs. L. BRANLY and CO., 81, Rue Napoleon. Mr. G. LUYCKX r 24, Rue des Fabriques. Messrs. L. J. VOGUE and CO. Messrs. C. H. VAN ZUTPHEN and CO. Messrs. G. TILMES and CO. Messrs. VALSAMACHY and CO. Messrs. KRAETSCHMER and CO. Messrs. HASKARD and SON, 4, Borgo SS. Apostoli. Mr. MARTIN BECKER, 5, Bleidenstrasse. Messrs. JOLIMAY and CO. Messrs. G. B. PRATOLONGO and CO. Messrs. P. CAU VIN, DI AM ANTI, and COSTA. Messrs. JULIUS WUSTENFELD and CO. Messrs. CHR. EG LIN and MARING. Messrs. RTTSCHARD and BURKI. Messrs. GERHARD and HEY. Messrs. HENDERSON BROTHERS. Messrs. ROSE and CO. Messrs. GIRAUD FRERES. Messrs. HORACE BOUCHET and CO. Mr. G. POSSENTI. Messrs. GUTLE BEN and WE1DERT. Messrs. CERULLI and CO. ; Mr. G. CIVALLERI. 1 Messrs. M. and N. GIORDAN, Quai Lunel, 14 (sur le Portl Mr. J. DUCLOS ASSANDRI. J M. HECTOR L’HERBIER, 18, Rue de la Douane. Mr. BERGEROT. Mr. J. J. SEIDL, Hibernergasse, No. 1000. Mr. J. P. SHEA, 11, Piazza di Spagna. Mr. A. TOMBINI. Mr. J. A. HOUWENS ; Messrs. P. A. VAN ES and CO. Messrs. MARTIN FRERES. Mr. CHIABODO PIETRO, Via Dora Grossa, 13. Mr. HENRY DECOPPET, Mr. F«> TOLOMEI DI Fco Mr. ANTON POKORNY, Stadt Sonnenfelsgasse, 2. Any other houses will also forward goods to C. C. & Co., on receiving instructions to do so^ Travellers are requested always to give particular directions that their Packages are consigned direct to CHAS. CARR & CO., 14, Bishopsgate Street Within, London, E.C.’ CHAS. 0A EE & 00. beg to call attention to their WINES IMPORTED BY THEMSELVES DIRECT FROM THE GROWERS. CLARET— Medoc Margaux St. Julian Finer qualities BURGUNDY— Beaume Volnay ....... Superior qualities .... Chablis HOCK and MOSELLE CHAMPAGNE- Sparkling Hock and Moselle. SHERRIES MARSALA Per doz. 15s. or 14s. per balfhhds. of 12 dozen; 24s. or 21s. ditto ditto 28s. or 25s. ditto ditto 30s. or 27s. ditto ditto 36s. to 126s. 24s. to 30S. 36s. to 54s. 60s. and upwards. 30s. to 54s. 21s. to 120s. 42s. to 72s. 36s. to 60s. In Quarter Casks 15 J. to 35L 26s. to 30s. AND OTHER WINES. Detailed Price IAsts may be had at (7. C. & Co.’s Office. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, U BRUSSELS. HOTEL HE BELLE VUE. Proprietor, Mr. EDWARD DREMEL. rpHIS magnificent Hotel, in offering to tlie Visitor every kind of comfort and accommodation, lias the great advantage of being situated adjoining THE PALACE OF THE KING, and facing THE PLACE ROYALE AND THE PARK. It contains numerous large and small Apartments, as well as single Rooms. Table-d'Hote, richly served . Choice Wines . SMOKING- ROOM. READING ROOM, with the best Belgian, English, French, German, and American Baily Papers and Periodicals. Terraces, with Splendid View overlooking the Park. ARRANGEMENTS MADE FOR THE WINTER. Mr. Dremel, the new Proprietor of this Hotel, hopes to justify the confidence placed in him, by a carefully arranged system of prompt and civil attendance, combined with moderate charges. 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 65 PASSPORT AGENCY AND GUIDE DEPOT. C. GOODMAN, (LATE LEIGH & CO.,) ESTABLISHED HALF-A-CENTURY, 407, STRAND, W.O. ( THREE DOORS EAST OF THE ADELPHI THEATRE .) British Subjects about to Travel on the Continent, by forwarding a Banker’s Application through this Agency, can obtain the Jb'oreign Office Passport with the necessary Visas, by whicli means they will avoid trouble and loss of time. , PASSPORT CIRCULAR GRATIS. Passport Cases , including Mounting on Muslin and Names lettered thereon, from 2s. 6 d. to 5s. THE LATEST EDITIONS OP MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS. Baedeker’s Guide in English and German; Blaik’s Guides for Home Tours, Keller’s and Leutchard’s Maps of Switzerland. Panoramas of the Rhine, Switzerland, and Rome. Dictionaries, Thrase Books, Interpreters, Writing Cases, Couriers’ Bags, Journals, Soap Boxes, Wallets, and every requisite for Travellers. G E N O A. GRAND H OTEL DTTALIE. T HIS magnificent Establishment, formerly the RAGGIO PALACE, continues to retain the first place among all houses of this description in this city by its exceptional and central position, as well as by the extent of its accommodation and its cleanliness. With the view of preserving the same reputation, the Pro- prietor has established agreeable salons de reunion, music, reading, and smoking, having a superb view of the Gulf. The prices are very moderate. Excellent Table-d’ Ilote at 4 francs . Comfortable Booms at 2 francs. For persons who remain some time in the Hotel arrangements are made on reduced terms. Omnibuses and Carriages to meet every Train. 66 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, AIX LES BAINS. GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. PROPRIETOR, J, BERNASOON. First-class house — admirably situated near the Casino, the Baths, and the English Church. This Hotel is strongly recommended to Travellers for the comfort of its arrangements. Good gardens with a beautiful view of the Lake and Moun- tains. Large and small apartments for Families at moderate prices, and a Chalet in the garden for Families who may prefer being out of the Hotel. Excellent Table d’Hote. Carriages for hire, and an omnibus belonging to the Hotel to meet every train. BOARDING SCHOOL FOR YOUNG LADIES. SUPERINTENDED BY MADLLE. BRONN. 2 MOLARD, GENEVA, 2 MOLARD. LESSONS GIVEN BY THE BEST MASTERS, AND SOJOURN IN THE COUNTRY DURING THE HOLIDAYS. Small 8vo., 3s. 6d. HANDBOOK OF TRAVEL TALK. IN FOUR LANGUAGES. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. ANTWERP. HOTEL DU GRAND LABOUREUR, .PLACE DE MEER, 26. This old-established and highly-recommended Hotel, which has been considerably enlarged, is situated in the finest and healthiest square of the* city of Antwerp ; its cleanliness and the excellency of the Table-d’Hote and Wines, added to the attention and civility shown to all visitors, have made it deservedly popular. HOT AND COLD BATHS. ENGLISH AND FEENCH NEWSPAPEKS. 6? 1869. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. BIRMINGHAM. NEW GREAT WESTERN HOTEL (Snow Hill Station) IS NOW OPEN. 63 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. [May, 1869. THE ORIGINAL GUIDE & TRAVELLERS’ DEPOT, Ignssport smir Couriers’ Agmejr, NEARLY OPPOSITE THE CHARING CROSS RAILWAY. ESTABUSHEO 1832. LEE’S. POLYGLOT WASHING BOOKS (To save the trouble of translating Washing Bills) For Ladies or Gentlemen, IN English & French. ! English & German. ! English orking, Boxhill, Winchester, Southampton, Portsmouth, and the Isle /, ,/of Wight. Map. Post 8vo. 105. ERKS, BUCKS, AND OXON — Windsor, Eton, Reading, Aylesbury,. Henley, Oxford, and the Thames. Map. Post 8vo. 75. 6d. ^ILTS, DORSET, AND SOMERSET — Salisbury, Chippenham, Wey- mouth, Sherborne, Wells, Bath, Bristol, Taunton, &c. Map. Post Svo. DEVON AND CORNWALL — Exeter, Ilfracombe, Linton, Sidmouth, Dawlish, Teignmouth, Plymouth, Devonport, Torquay, Launceston, Pen- zance, Falmouth, The Lizard, Land’s End,