mi ■pn A* V* ..-&■:- €cwbv €a$tii. 1«^ CLASSICAL AND TOPOGRAPHICAL TOUR THROUGH G R E E C E, DURING THE YEARS 1801, 1805, AND 1806. BY EDWARD DODWELL, ESQ. F. S. A. AND MEMBER OF SEVERAL FOREIGN ACADEMIES. UoXXa. jj.iv fir) x.a.1 aWa i£a; 7ij av EXX-ijo-i, la Se xai ccxovtmi iavfj.oi.hs a£ia. Pausax. h. 5. c. 10. IN TWO VOLUMES, v VOL. I. LONDON: PRINTED FOR RODWELL AND MARTIN, NEW BOND-STREET. 1819. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2012 with funding from Research Library, The Getty Research Institute LONDON http://archive.org/defaWcTassTcaffopogra01dodw C ONTENT S TO VOL. I. CHAPTER I. Preparations for our voyage to Greece — Departure from Venice — Driven back by unfavourable winds — Second departure — View of the Istrian coast, Pola, Fiume, islands of Cherso, Veglia, Arbo, Ossero, Unia, the Canigule — Number and state of the Dalmatian islands, Salve, Premuda, Morlachian mountains, islands of St. Pietro, Ista, Grebani, Pago, Pontedura, Melada, Tre Sorelle, Isola Grossa, Scorda, Veglia, Pasmani — Town of Zara, islands Morter, Coronata, Zuri, Rachen, Solta, Trau, Bua, Bratsa, Nirenta, Lissa, Melisello, Sant' Andrea — Lessina — Descrip- tion of the town and island — Festival of St. Prospero — Islands Torcola, Curzola, peninsula of Sabioncello, and promontory of Lavischchi ; island of Meleda, Ragusa -, islands Mezzo, Sant' Andrea, Bocca di Cattaro, Queen Teuta — Town of Cattaro, Monte Negro, and its inhabitants — Towns of Croja, Durazzo, Polina, Acroceraunian mountains; ignited hydrogen; the Lin- guetta — Town of Valona ; other cities on the coast — Arrival at Corfu — Revolution and murder of some Greeks and Turks — Visit to the Capigi Baschy, to the Seraskier, and to the President of the Republic .--... Page 1 CHAPTER II. Compendium of the history of Corcyra — Small islands near it — Villages — Produce — Departure from Corfu — Islands of Paxos and Antipaxos — Town of Parga — Arrival at Santa Maura — Ruins of Leucas — Lover's Leap — Villages — Produce — Town of Prebeza — Ruins of Nicopolis — Ambra- A 2 IV CONTENTS. cian gulf — Departure from Santa Maura — Manner in which the pirates treat their prisoners — Taphian, or Teleboian islands — Ithaca — Villages — Ports — Produce — Mountains — Ruins of a castle and city — Other ruins — Fount Arethusa — Medals of Ithaca — Albanian robbers — Island of Cephallenia — End of my first tour in this part of Greece - - Page 32 CHAPTER III. Beginning of my second tour — Sail from Messina— Coast of Calabria — First view of Greece — Arrival at the island of Zakunthos — Population — Villages — Manufactures — Produce — Bituminous springs — Corruption of names by the Italians — Dimensions of the island — Panorama from Mount Elatos — Departure from Zakunthos — Eleian coast— Arrival at Mesaloggion — Extor- tions of Ali, Pasha of Joannina — Produce and commerce of Mesaloggion — Ruins of an ancient city in the vicinity — River Acheloos, Echinades, Taphiai, Teleboiai, Doulichion — River Evenos ..-..-.77 CHAPTER IV. Departure from Mesaloggion — Corinthian gulf, its various denominations— —Arrival at Patra — Antiquities and modern state of that city — Mount Pauachaikos — The castle — Large cypress — Slaves — Mounts Chalcis and Taphiassos — Departure for Galaxidi — Promontories of Rhion and Antirrhion — Promontory of Drepanon — Nepaktos — Description of Galaxidi — Dance and carnival of the inhabitants — Costumes - - - - 111 CHAPTER V. Departure for Salona — Ancient ruins called Agia Euphemia — Salona, the ancient Amphissa ; inha- bitants, produce — Visit to the Voivode — To Krisso, the ancient Krissa — Discordance of authors concerning that town and Kirra — Krisssean plain - - - 143 CHAPTER VI. From Krisso to Kastri — Sepulchral chambers — Situation of Delphi-Kastriotes — Kastalian spring — The rocks Phaidriades — Temple of Apollo — The prophetic, or oracular cavern — !'he serpent Pytho — Stadium — Convent of the Kalogeroi — Ruins near it — Detached masses of rock — The cave of Sybaris on Mount Kirphis — River l'leistos — The vale of Delphi, and situation of the ancient town — Echo — Coins of Delphi - - - - 1G2 CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. From Kastri to Distomo — Sepulchres near the Kastalian spring — Sacred way — Sepulchral monu- ment—Village of Arakoba — Remains of an ancient city — The Triodos and tomb of Laios — Distomo, anciently Ambrysos — To Daulis — Ruins of the city — Mount Parnassos — To Agios- Blasios, anciently Panopeus — Ruins of the city — To Libadea — Description of an Archon's house — Locusts — Oracular cavern of Trophonios — To Kapourna, anciently Chaeroneia — Ruins of the city .--_.-. Page 194 CHAPTER VIII. ToSkripou, anciently Orchomenos — Plain of Chaeroneia — Ruins ofOrchomenos — Treasury of Minyas — Lake Kopais, its towns, rivers, and mountains — Outlets of the lake — River Cephissos — Village of Romaiko — Village of Granitza — Return to Libadea — To Mikrokoura, anciently Haliartos — Ruins of the city — Eremo-Kastro, anciently Thespeia — Ruins of the city — To Kakosia, anciently Thisbe — Ruins of the city — Mount Helicon — To the village of Katsikabeli —To Thebes ...... 225 CHAPTER IX. Thebes, Kadmeia — Gates and remains of the town — Character of the ancient and modern Thebans — Villages in the Theban territory — To Kokla, anciently Platsea — Ruins of the city — Ancient arms — Mount Cithaeron — To Egypto-Kastro, anciently Eleutherai — Ruins of the town — The Diodos — Village of Kondoura — To Athens — Eleusinian plain — The plague — Arrival at Athens ....... 262 CHAPTER X. Monument of Lysikrates — Convent of Missionaries — View from it — Acropolis of Athens — Dispute with the Disdar — Theatre of Herodes Atticus — A portico — Another theatre — Monument of 1 hrasyllos — Tripodial columns — Cave in the east end of the Acropolis rock — Another witli niches — Ancient steps cut in the rock — Makrai Petrai — Cave of Pan — Turkish burying-place —Walls of the Acropolis— Walls of the town .... 288 Vi CONTENTS. CHAPTER XI. Entrance to the Acropolis — Colossal inscribed pedestal — Propylaea and contiguous buildings — The frusta of the Propylsean columns united with wood — The Parthenon — Sculpture taken down, and part of the temple destroyed — Bad effects of the dilapidation upon the minds of the inhabitants — Destruction of several remains of antiquity by the Turks — Painted ornaments on the Par- thenon, and sculpture — Shields suspended on the temple — Painted sculpture — The Erechtheion — Double temples — Eleusinian marble — Ancient windows — Caryatid portico — Modern buildings within the Acropolis — Plants ----- Page 310 CHAPTER XII. The Areiopagos — Temple of Theseus — Painted sculpture — Gymnasium of Ptolemy — Doric portico — Tower of the Winds — Dance of Derwisches — Ruins at the church of Megale Panagia — Corinthian ruins in the Bazar — Other imperfect remains — Modern walls and gates of Athens — Arch of Hadrian — Temple of Jupiter Olympios — Monument of Philopappos — Panorama of Athens — Excavations and sepulchres in the Museum-hill — Various kinds of magic practised in (ireece — Pnyx — Votive offerings — Several imperfect remains — Bridge of Hadrian — The Sta- ll ium — Academy — Colonos— Village of Padischah - - - 361 CHAPTER XIII. Way to the Piraeus — Tumuli — The long walls — Port Piraeus — Single Ionic column and sarcophagus — Supposed tomb of Themistocles — Port Mounychia — Doric temple — Subterraneous chambers — Other remains — Port Phaleron — Cape Kolias — Ancient Piraean quarries — General new from the Piraeus — Piraean necropolis — The opening of several tombs, and description of their contents — Bronze inscriptions of the magistrates Diodorus and Deinias — Imprecatory inscription on a lamina of lead — Description of some Ceramic vases found at Athens.— Duplicate vases — Modern burials — Return to Athens ------ 416 CHAPTER XIV. Attic rivers — Ilissos — Remains on its banks — Mystic caves — Fount Enneakrounos — Cascades, and overflowing of the Ilissos — The Cephissos — The Eridanos — Attic mountains Laurion, Anudros, Hymettos — Its monasteries, villages, and antiquities — Discovery of an ancient city near the marble quarries — Panorama from its summit — Mount Pentelikon — Its monasteries, villages, and antiquities — Marble quarries — Mount Parnes — Its monasteries, villages, and antiquities — CONTENTS Vll Village of Kasha — Castle of Phyle — Nymphaeum — Mount Korydallos— Mount Aigaleos — View of the Saronic gulf from its summit— Seat of Xerxes — Mount Anchesmos — Other smaller hills in the plain ...... Page 468 CHAPTER XV. Travelling in Attica — Hospitality — Ruins of Acharnae — Colossal marble lion near Hymettos — Re- mains of some demoi between Cape Kolias and Cape Zoster— Village of Cephissia — Palaio Brauna, and Brauna — Port Raphte — Antiquities in the islands of the port — Village of Keratea — Ruins of Thorikos — Ancient shafts of the silver mines, and ruins on Laurion — Scoria — Pro- montory of Sunium — View from it — Doric temple — Metochi of Alegrina — Village of Kataphiki — Port Anaphisi — Villages Andamesi andElimbos, and ancient remains — Village ofBari — Cave near it — Cape Zoster — Ancient remains — Arrive at Athens - - 518 CHAPTER XVI. The island of iEgina — Land at the old port — Ruins of the ancient city — Remains of a Doric temple — Compendium of the history of the island — Soil and produce — Visit to the temple of Jupiter Panhellenios — The temple and statues — Return to the port, and departure for the island of Salamis — Land at a deserted port — Proceed and land at a monastery — Description of it — Panoramic view from a mountain in Salamis — Voyage to Eleusis — Compendium of its history — Return by sea to Athens — Small islands in the gulf — Ancient castle in Salamis — Islands of Psyttalia and Atalanta — Port Phoron — Piraeus .... ;,.",* LIST OF THE ENGRAVINGS ON COPPER. The Binder is requested to place them according to the following order VOL. I. Page Map of Gn. ece, to face --......-.-1 r -awbrid fc d at Corfu ---..__-_-- 37 Zakunthos -_---_______- 85 Sacred well at Patra --- 120 Salona __--________- 146 Mosque near Libadea - - - - - - - - - - -219 Chseroneia -----_____--- 220 Treasury of Minyas, at Orchomenos -____-_- 227 Acropolis of Orchomenos — Treasury of Minyas ------- 229 Katabathra of Lake Kopais - - ' --------- 239 Ruins . f Thespeia — Mount Helicon --------- 256 Monument of Lysicrates ----------- 289 Athc , Panagia Speliotissa -___-_____ 300 Interior of the Parthenon towards the west ------- 339 Erechtheion -------_.____ 346 West end of the Pandrosion ----_--.__ 356 Athens, north side of the acropolis, from the foot of the Areiopagus - - - 361 Fragments on the temple of Theseus - - - - - - - -363 The same, double plate --_-_______ 363 Gymnasium of Ptolemy - - - - - - _ - _ - -371 Gate of Hadrian — Temple of Jupiter Olympios - - - - - - -391 Phenician inscription from Athens - - - - - - - - -411 Figure of Apollo from Athens - - - - - - - - - -412 From sepulchres at the Piraeus ---------- 443 Vase found in the acropolis of Athens - - - - - - - -461 Lamp found at Athei.s ------___-_ 462 Pentelic quarries ------._.___ 499 View from the Castle of Phyle, Mount Parnes - 503 Colossal lion at the north-east foot of Hymettos ------ 523 Port Raphte ----___•_-_.___ 532 VOL. I. b X LIST OF ENGRAVINGS. Page Theatre at Thorikos -_-----____ 535 Cave near Bari, in Attica ----..__._ 553 The old port and temple in iEgina -----.._, ^qq VOL. II. Mount Olympos, Tempe, Mount Ossa --------96 Bridge at Larissa -------.._-- 99 ValeofTcinpe - - - - . . . _ . . - -113 Mount Olympos — Vale of Tempe - - - - - - - -114 Pharsalia ----._....--_ 120 Tithoraea — Mount Parnassus - - - - - - - - - -137 Mount Parnassus — Plain of Chasroneia 143 Thebes ------_.___.._ 148 - The Euripos and Chalcis in Eubcea - - - - - - - - -150 Great tumulus in the plain of Marathon - - - - - - - -158 From the temple of Ceres at Eleusis - - - - -- - -174 Corinth -------- _ _ _ _ _ 1 88 From Mertese near Corinth, coloured - - - - - - - -197 Do. do. col. 197 Ancient well at Corinth, 1,2, 3, 4 - - - - - - - - 200 Do. do. 5, 6, 7 200 Do. do. 8, 9, 10 200 From Mertese near Corinth ---------- 200 From Mycenae _-_----__--_ 232 From the Treasury of Atreus at Mycenae -------- 232 From the sacred Forest near Epidauros -------- 250 From Epidauros, and the Temple of iEsculapius ------ 2G3 Ruins of Troczen ------------ 270 Methana— Mount Ortholithi - - 282 Village of Piada 289 Pass of Boura, and River Bouraikos __-_.--- 303 The Alpheios near Phrixa ---------- 33s Passage of the Alpheios near Phrixa __-____. 34.0 Theatre at Megalopolis -_-.-_.--- 375 The Alpheios near Karitcna - - - - - - - - - -380 Ruins of Lykosoura __-.----_-- 394. Source of the Ladon ----------- 442 Specimen of ancient walls in Greece - - - - - - - - -471 Palcographical Alphabet _-...---_- 503 LIST OF ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD. VOL. I. Page Inscription on terra cotta - - - - - - - - - -34 An abraxas ------------- 190 Four coins of Delphi - - - - - - - - - - -192 Two coins of Phocis ---.-____.- 193 Sun dial at Orchomenos - - - - - - - - - -231 Two coins of Orchomenos ---------- 232 Bas relief near Orchomenos ---------- 243 Seven coins of Thebes - - - - - - - - - - -274 Wooden blocks used to unite the columns of the Propylsea at Athens - - 313 Ditto ditto 314 Antefix of the Parthenon __--.--___ 334 Guttae of different temples --------- 360 Votive offering ____________ 402 Another - 403 Another ------------- 404 Inscription on bronze from the Piraeus -_--_-__ 433 Another ------------- 437 Terra cotta figure - - - - - - - - - - -439 Sepulchral bas relief ----------- 442 Iron sword ------------- 443 Terra cotta mask .------.___ 445 Cinerary vase - - - - - - - - - - - -446 Bas relief, Philokrates __.._--____ 447 Alabaster unguentary --._--..--. 449 Sepulchral vase - - - - - - - - - - - -451 Sepulchre at the Piraeus ---------- 452 Sepulchral vase ___.__.----_ 454 Two sepulchral vases ______ __-. 455 Inscription on a vase --.__--___. 457 Terra cotta figure ________ .- -..4.58 x " LIST OF ENGRAVINGS. Page Sepulchral bas relief -------____ 466 Bas relief and inscription - - - - - - . - . -471 Designs on the quarries of Pentelikon .----... 500 Plan of Doric column at Thorikos .--_.... 536 Scarabaeus from iEgina - - - - - - - - - -573 VOL. II. Coin of Ainia --.__._. .... 75 Sculptured ornament --------___ 86 Arrow heads from Attica - - - - - - - - - -159 Inscription from Argos - - - - - - - - - -221 Sculptured ornaments from Mycenas -.--..._ 232 Two coins of Methana __--.--.._ 283 Helmets from the Olympia - - - - - - - - - -330 Coin of Kleitor __------_--. 444 Inscription from Corfu ___-_-..-- 506 Delphi 509 Libadea - - - - - - - - - -512 Athens -.---..--- 515 Athens 516 PREFACE. The classic regions of Greece have been recently explored by such a multiplicity of travellers, that the Author of the present Tour ap- peared to be precluded from the hope of making any considerable additions to that stock of information, which they have already communicated to the public. Indeed, the access which the Author has had to well-stored libraries, since his return to England, has convinced him that many of the observations and discoveries, for which he might once, perhaps, have claimed the palm of no- velty, have been anticipated by the publications of those who travelled after him. But Greece is so rich in objects of curiosity, and of intellectual, scientific, or literary interest, that the stock has not been exhausted by previous investigation ; and after all that has been done, much still remains to be performed. After all the light, which the diligence of busy inquiry, and the accuracy of personal observation have thrown upon the subject, some obscurity still remains to be dispersed, much misrepresentation to be re- moved, and many inaccuracies to be rectified. It cannot be supposed but that these volumes must contain some- thing which has been said before ; but the information which may be found in other publications, has never been repeated in this, for the sake of enlarging the dimensions of the work, but solely for the purpose of connecting the general narrative, and of avoiding such omissions as might compel the reader to seek in other travels, what he ought to find in the present. While the Author has carefully omitted all irrelevant matter, and all superfluous details, he has IV sedulously endeavoured to produce such a description of Greece, as may be interesting to the classical as well as to the general reader. Nothing extraneous has been wilfully introduced ; and every thing essential has been studiously retained. A work of this kind, from the very nature of the subject, re- quired numerous quotations ; but these have never been amassed for the sake of vain parade or learned ostentation, but solely because they were intimately connected with the subject of the Tour ; and were necessary to elucidate passages in ancient authors, which have been sometimes misunderstood by those who have never travelled in Greece, except in the seclusion of their cabinets. In these volumes the ancient state of Greece is described, in order to illustrate the present, and to add new interest to modern localities and customs, by identifying them with the events or the manners of a more early period. The reader must never forget, that a classic interest is breathed over the superficies of the Grecian territory ; that its mountains, its valleys, and its streams, are intimately associated with the animating presence of the authors, by whom they have been im- mortalized. Almost every rock, every promontory, every river, is haunted by the shadows of the mighty dead. Every portion of the soil appears to teem with historical recollections ; or it borrows some potent but invisible charm from the inspirations of poetry, the efforts of genius, or the energies of liberty and patriotism. In the Greek quotations the accents have been purposely omitted, because such marks have not the sanction of high antiquity. They are supposed to be the invention of the grammarian Aristophanes ; and are never seen upon inscriptions of any kind. 1 1 See upon this subject Angelo Maria Ricci ; Dissertationes Homerica ; and Considera- tion* Intomo alia Pronunzia Greco, at the end of his Tavole Grece d'Esopo volgarizzate in rime Anacreontiche Toscane, in Firenze, 1736, in 8vo. p. 331. et seq. In the ancient names of places the Latin orthography has been relinquished for the Greek, except in those cases in which it would have been too great a deviation from the established custom. The K has been adopted instead of the Latin C, and the U instead of the Y, as often as it could with propriety. In some instances, the diphthongs ai and ei have been substituted for at and e; and the Greek terminations os and on have been preferred to the Latin us and urn, wherever it could be done without the appearance of pedantic precision, or affected singularity. Many places in Greece, that are still known to the inhabitants only by their ancient appellations, are barbarously misnamed by foreign sailors. In these instances the Author has deemed it most expedient to retain those names which are at present in use in the country, which was the object of his tour. As ancient authors are by no means agreed, with respect to the orthography of cities and places that occur in the present volumes, the author has uniformly followed the authority of Pausanias. Modern writers differ so much in this respect, that it has been deemed advisable to insert in the Appendix, a list of some of the most striking variations. These will shew the numerous mistakes to Which travellers are liable, who do not take the precaution of procuring the best written information which is to be had upon the spot, without placing any dependance upon the ear; than which nothing is more fallacious, in a country, where there is such an in- congruous multiplicity of dialects and pronunciations. The Author has been much perplexed in determining what method to pursue in the orthography of Turkish words, in order to accom- modate them to the peculiarities of the English pronunciation. This difficulty was increased by the discrepancies that are to be found among authors, hardly any two of whom write the same word in the same way. Many authors are at variance even with a 2 VI themselves, and spell the same word differently in the same work. 1 I have seen the word Pasha written in eleven different manners, Voivode in ten, Shik and Mosque in fourteen, and Mohamed in fifteen. Similar confusion is observed respecting the names of places. I have seen the words Mesaloggion and Misithra written in eleven different manners, and Bostitza in seventeen ; of which other examples are given in the Appendix. It was apprehended, that a strict adherence to the Turkish ortho- graphy, would have the appearance of novelty or affectation ; while too great a deviation from it might furnish a presumption of igno- rance or negligence. Bashaw, Can, Coran, and an infinity of words, which have been thus tortured into English pronunciation, ought not to be admitted into any work above the level of a fairy tale. On such occasions, recourse should be had to an authority against which no reasonable objections can be alleged. Muradja D'Ohsson 2 has generally been followed ; and when the words have not been found in that accurate author, the next preference has been given to Herbelot. 3 The names of towns, villages, and places are given as they were written by the inhabitants, though in some instances it was necessary to confide in the pronunciation of the country people who could not write. It is necessary to observe, that the letter B is pro- nounced by the modern Greeks like the V, and sometimes like the P. This appears also to have been the case in more ancient times. There are several instances of this in the Latin inscriptions which are found in Greece, where B is substituted for V. On some of the Greek coins of Ambracia, the P is used instead of the B. The D 1 The author who styles himself AH Bey, writes Mohamed in five different manners, which shews that he is no Mohamedan ; many similar errors occur in this and other authors. 2 Empire Othoman. 3 Bibliot. Orient. Vll is sometimes pronounced as th, as in the word %v, or evSev, which is pronounced then. In order to produce the sound of the B, they use the letters ^tt, as in the word pTrovpwovKx, which is pronounced Boubouka. These few instances have merely been noticed, in order to facilitate the pronunciation of the examples which may occur in the following pages. There are some words which it is absolutely necessary to spell according to the original language ; and which, even then, almost defy the powers of English articulation ; as Tschitschekdjy- Baschy, 1 and Muweschschihh. 2 The Chinese and Russian languages alone furnish difficulties for the human voice, that are comparable to those of the Turkish ! Distances in Greece are not regulated by measure, but computed by time. The Tatars, who travel on small and fleet horses, without any incumbrance, except their pipe and tobacco bag, pass over rocks and mountains, through forests, swamps, and trackless wilds, with a truly astonishing velocity. They accordingly use a totally different method of computation from that which is commonly adopted in Greece, by those who travel with luggage horses, which are calculated to go throughout the day's journey, at the average pace of three miles an hour ; but from this rate, some deductions must be made in mountainous roads. This rough kind of calcula- tion is more accurate than might be imagined. The Author, during his journey, measured all the distances by this method, and com- paring the result with Strabo and Pausanias, he had the satisfaction to find, that the difference was frequently very immaterial. The distances, throughout the Avhole Tour, were minuted bv 1 Superintendant of the flowers in the Sultan's garden. 4 One of the names of the Muezzinns who call to prayers from the minarets. Vlll marking down the moment of setting off from places, and noting every object on the road, which had the smallest geographical, anti- quarian, or classical interest. Every stoppage was also carefully noted, and the whole outline of the journey was written on horse- back, without trusting even the most inconsiderable minutiae to the memory. It appears that Herodotus, Thucydides, and Pausanias, generally measured by the Delphic measure of about ten stadia to the Roman mile. The Olympic and Italian measure, by which Strabo 1 appears to have reckoned his distances, gives eight stadia to a mile. Pau- sanias 2 says, that Rhion is fifty stadia from Patra; and Pliny 3 makes it five miles. It is evident therefore that Pausanias counted ten stadia to the mile ; and the Author observed, that he usually per- formed thirty stadia of that traveller in an hour. Strabo's measure- ments are in general extremely erroneous, and were evidently computed. Indeed, the Greeks had no marks on their roads to in- dicate the distance like the Roman Milliaria. The object with which the Author was most studiously occupied during his various excursions in Greece, was an accurate exhibi- tion of this interesting country, both with respect to its ancient remains and its present circumstances. This purpose has been attempted, by descriptions, in which truth of representation will be found never to have been sacrificed to the embellish- ments of fiction ; and by drawings, in which the features of the country have been delineated with scrupulous fidelity, without the introduction of factitious ornaments. Every locality is shewn as it really is. In the execution of the drawings, the Author was happy to avail himself of the genius and the industry of Signor 1 B. 7. He says many count eight stadia to the mile, but that Polybius reckons eight and a third. See Mons. Barbie du Bocage Analise du Voy. d'Anacharsis. '- B. 7. c. 22. 3 Nat. Hist. b. 4. c. 5. IX Pomardi, a Roman artist, who accompanied him throughout his Tour, and who completed no less than six hundred views of the country, its scenery, and antiquities. Besides these, four hundred other drawings were made by the Author himself. From this assemblage of one thousand drawings several have been engraved for the present work ; and sixty more have been selected from the remainder, in order to form a separate publication of co- loured engravings upon a larger scale. These travels would have made their appearance some years before, if the intentions of the Author had not been frustrated by a long detention upon the continent, to which he was subjected by the government of Bonaparte. The accomplishment of the following publication had long been an object of desire with the Author ; and the feeling of gratitude strongly impels him to make this public mention of his obligations to those, by whom the execution of that object was facilitated. In this list, the Author begs leave to assign the first place to his Father. The thanks of the Author are also eminently due to Mons. Lecheva- lier, 1 to Count Annoni, of Milan, Mess. Granet, 2 Dupaty, 3 and Paulin 1 Author of the learned works entitled " Voyage dans la Troade," 3 vols, in 8vo. with an atlas, and " Voyage de la Propontide, et du Pont Euxine," 2 vols, in 8vo. with maps. It is to this celebrated traveller that the world is indebted for settling, in a clear and unequivocal man- ner, the long controversy about the position of Troy and its memorable plain. The author of the present Tour visited the Troade with the Iliad of Homer, and the Travels of Lechevalier as his only guides, and he can, with other travellers who have been upon the spot, bear testimony to the scrupulous accuracy of the work ; and it is certain, that those who have since written upon the same subject, have either copied the ideas of Lechevalier, or, if they have differed from him, they have committed errors, or fabricated systems which cannot be upheld. It is to the friendly exertions of the discoverer of Troy, and to Count Annoni of Milan, that the Author is indebted for the permission which was granted him to travel in Greece upon his parole. 2 A celebrated French painter residing at Rome. * A French sculptor of great taleut. du Quelar, 1 and to Mr. William Hamilton, one of His Majesty's Under-secretaries of State. During the Author's residence at Paris, he was also much indebted to Messrs. Louis Petit Radel, Barbie du Bocage, Langles, and Gail, for the liberal and friendly manner in which they aided his researches, by the communication of books and manuscripts. And during the long interval, in which he was one of the victims to the violence of the late French government, the Author embraces with satisfaction, the opportunity which is now afforded him, of expressing the grateful sense, which he will ever entertain, of the generous treatment which he experienced from Mons. de Tournon and Mons. Norvins de Monbreton, who, from the situations which they held at Rome, might greatly have aggra- vated the inconvenient and distressing circumstances of his capti- vity ; particularly at such a place as Rome, where courteous hospi- tality and disinterested kindness to strangers, are so little practised. 1 An historical painter of great merit. CLASSICAL AND TOPOGRAPHICAL TOUR THROUGH GREECE. CHAPTER I. Preparations for our voyage to Greece. Departure from Venice — driven back by unfavourable winds. Second departure. View of the Istrian coast, Pola, Fiume, islands of Cherso, Veglia, Arbo, Ossero, Unia, the Canigule. Number and state of the Dalmatian islands, Salve, Premuda, Morlacbian mountains, islands of St. Pietro, Ista, Grebani, Pago, Pontedura, Melada, Tre Sorelle, Isola Grossa, Scorda, Veglia, Pasmani. Town of Zara, islands Mortcr, Coronata, Zuri, Rachen, Solta, Trau, Bua, Bratsa, Nirenta, Lissa, Melisello, Sant' Andrea. Lessina — description of the town and island. Festival of St. Prospero. Islands Torcola, Curzola, peninsula of Sabioncello, and promon- tory of Lavischchi ; island of Meleda, Ragusa ; islands Mezzo, Sant' Andrea, Bocca di Cattaro, Queen Teuta. Town of Cattaro, Monte Negro, and its inhabitants. Towns of Croja, Durazzo, Polina, Acroceraunian mountains ; ignited hydrogen ; the Linguetta. Town of Valona : other cities on the coast. Arrival at Corfu ; revolution and murder of some Greeks and Turks ; visit to the Capigi Baschy, to the Seraskier, and to the President of the Republic. Instead of commencing my Tour with an account of my depar- ture from England, or of my journey to the gulph of Venice, by a route which has been repeatedly described, I shall simply state that I arrived at Trieste in the month of April, in the year 1801. My intention was to visit Greece, to explore its antiquities, to com- pare its past with its present state, and to leave nothing unnoticed, which, to the classical reader, can be an object of interest, or a source of delight. No country in Europe abounds with so many VOL. i. b 2 DEPARTURE FROM VENICE, DRIVEN BACK. spots, which teem with the most captivating associations. A deep interest seems, as it were, to breathe from the very ground, and there is hardly a locality which is not consecrated by some attractive cir- cumstance ; or which some trait of heroism, of greatness, and of genius, has not signalized and adorned. In the prosecution of this journey I had the good fortune to be accompanied by two English gentlemen, Mr. now Sir William, Gell, and Mr. Atkins. During our voyage from Trieste to Venice, where we intended to embark for the Grecian islands, we formed an acquaintance with a young Greek, named Georgio Gavra, of the island of Santirene, who was a passenger in our boat. We con- tinued our acquaintance with him at Venice; and, finding him clever and enterprising, and, to all appearance, a man of honour, and on the point of returning to his native island, we proposed to him to prolong his journey, to accompany us through Greece, to undertake the management of our expenses, and to act as our interpreter. Every thing being arranged to our mutual satisfaction, we pro- vided ourselves each with a small bed, some trinkets, to serve as presents in Turkey, and a fortnight's provisions for our voyage to Corfu ; which we expected to perform in ten days, although, on ac- count of calms and contrary winds, it took us near a month. The distance is only five hundred geographical miles. On Wednesday, the 29th of April, 1801, we set sail in a mer- chant ship, trading from Venice to the Ionian islands ; our captain, Giovanni Marassi, from the Bocca di Catt&ro, in Dalmatia, was a catholic, and his vessel named Lo Spirito Santo, e la Nativita della Madonna. We had thirteen Dalmatian sailors, dressed in short jackets, large breeches, and small red caps. They understood Ita- lian, but spoke Illyrian among themselves. We occupied the cabin, but in stormy weather we often experienced the intrusion of the captain and a few of the privileged sailors, who were solicitous to offer up their devotions before the picture of the Virgin, in front of which a lamp was suspended, that was kept constantly burning. After a few hours' sail, the wind becoming contrary, we put back TOWNS OF ROVIGNO AND POLA, DALMATIAN ISLANDS. 3 into port, at the small island of Pelegrina, which, with some other long and narrow islands in the vicinity, shelters Venice from the fury of the sea. On the 30th we proceeded on our voyage, and the next morning came in sight of the Istrian coast, at the distance of twenty miles, and the town of Rovigno, which contains about 10,000 inhabitants, who are industrious and commercial. We passed by the Sinus Polaticus, and our attention was drawn to the city of Pola, which was founded by the Colchians, 1 and subsequently colonized by the Romans, under the name of Julia Pietas ; but the distance was too considerable for us to distinguish its magnificent amphitheatre, its three temples, and its triumphal arch. This ancient town is now little more than a large village. We saw the mouth of the Flana- ticus Sinus, with the city of Fiume at the extremity. The islands of Cherso, Veglia, and Arbo, are at the entrance of the gulph. Beyond Pola begins the ancient Japydia; which coast extended, according to Strabo, 2 1,000 stadia, and contained the cities of Metu- lon, Arupenon, and Ouendon, joining with Liburnia, a part of Dal- matia. We passed near the islands of OssSro and Unia ; the former is a bishopric. Three subordinate rocky islands in the vicinity are called Canigule, or Canidftle, at the mouth of the gulph of Quar- nero, the Sinus Flanaticus; the distance is closed by the Albian mountains. 3 As the night approached, we steered amidst the Dal- matian Cyclades, which are so extremely numerous, so various in their dimensions and produce, and so little known, in ancient or modern history, that a regular description of them would require much more time than we were able to bestow. The most consider- able are interspersed with small villages. The soil, which is calcare- ous, produces corn, olives, vineyards, almonds, figs, pomegranates, and carobas, &c. ; and a great quantity and variety of aromatic 1 Pliny, Nat. Hist. b. 3. c. 19. From Pola across the Adriatic to Ancona is 120 miles, according to the same author. s B. 7. p. 315. Paris edit. 1620. 3 Strabo, b. 7. p. 314. B 1 4 ISLANDS AND COAST OF DALMATIA. herbs. Their outlines are composed of round hills, generally rocky, but not very lofty, or bold ; their colour is a dark green, being mostly covered with the wild olive, lentiscus, myrtle, terebinth, and juniper, and all the different evergreens which flourish in these southern latitudes. They contain many good ports, the importance and uti- lity of which were fully appreciated by the Romans, who have left several remains on the insular, as well as the continental, parts of the country. The smaller islands, however, which have neither ports nor any useful produce, were probably at all times uninhabited, as at present ; many of these are even nameless, and not a fourth part of them are laid down in the maps. Strabo, in his description of this coast, mentions first the islands Apsyrtides, from Apsyrtos, 1 who was killed by his sister Medea in this vicinity. These are the islands at the entrance of the Flanatic gulph, of which Cherso, Veg- lia, and Oss8ro, are the chief. He next mentions the island Kurak- tike, near the Japodes, the same as the Curictee of Pliny. Then the Liburnides, being forty in number; these are probably the cluster about Pago, Salve, Scorda, Pontadura, and Melada. He next mentions others in a mass ; only naming a few, as Issa, Tra- gurion, and Pharos. Dalmatia joins Liburnia. Strabo tells us that, before their wars with the Romans, and their destruction by Au- gustus, the Dalmatians had fifty places of some importance ; and, amongst them, the towns of Salon, Priamon, Ninia, Sinotion (the old and the new), Andretion, and Dalminion. Pliny 2 gives a long list of towns and fortresses situated on whole length of coast, which shews that it must have been extremely populous. He also asserts that there are more than a thousand islands near the Illyrian shore, separated from each other by shallow and narrow friths. Near the Istrian coast he mentions Gissa, Pul- lariae, and the Apsyrtides, and near these the Electrides, where elec- 1 About the Apsyrtides and Liburnides see Dionys. Orb. Descrip. v. 488, &c. * Nat. Hist. b. 3. c.21, 22, 23. 25, 26. MOUNT ALBION, ISLANDS OF DALMATIA. 5 trum was found. He places Lissa opposite Jader, (now Zara) and the islands called Creteoe, opposite the Liburni. He next mentions the Liburnicse, and Celadussae. Scylax says, that the Ulyrian terri- tory extended from Liburnia to Chaonia ; that is, from Spal&tro to Valona. During the night we passed by several of the islands, and the next morning found ourselves in a narrow channel between Salve and Premuda ; both of them small, and thinly peopled, with little appearance of cultivation, and consisting of low rocky hills covered with shrubs. On Salve we saw a pretty village, and near it two small chapels, by the sea-side, in a bay, called Porto di Sant' Anto- nio. Behind the island are seen the rough and Alpine mountains of Morlachia, (the ancient Albion being a link of the Alpes) rising to a great height, forming a vast mass of bare rocks and broken pre- cipices, with snow upon their pointed summits. They stretch from Istria to the Acroceraunian mountains, separating the Moesise, the Norici, and the Triballi 1 of the ancients, from Istria, Japidia, and Liburnia. The inhabitants of that wild and rugged district live in scattered villages, at the foot of their mountains; but, reaping un- certain harvests from their narrow glens, trust to their flocks and herds for a precarious subsistence. They inherit the warlike dispo- sition of their Ulyrian ancestors. Premuda is not so large as Salve, and contains one village, visible from the channel through which we passed. Near it are two small and nameless islands. We passed near several others, also uninhabited. Those of St. Pietro, Ista, and Grebani, form a picturesque cluster. We steered between the islands of Pago, Pontadura, and Mel&da; the two former on the left, with the Morlachian mountains towering beyond them ; the latter on the right. Pago is a considerable island, with a good port and town, and is supposed to be the ancient Gissa ; 2 the othei 1 At present forming Croatia, Bosnia, and Servia. 8 Pliny, Nat. Hist. b. 3. c. 21. 6 ZARA, DALMATIAN ISLANDS. two are much smaller. The weather being almost calm, and our land-locked situation depriving us of the little wind there might be in the open gulph, we proceeded slowly, and were wearied by the astonishing uniformity in the outline of the Dalmatian islands. On the morning of the 5th, we found ourselves near the Tre Sorelle ; three small islands, to which the name of the Sisters is applicable, from their resemblance to each other. We sailed nearlsola Grossa, which is sometimes called Isola Lunga, a fine fertile island of con- siderable extent, and containing some villages. Within a short dis- tance of it is the island called Scorda. We entered the channel of Zara, formed by the Dalmatian coast on our left, and the islands of Yeglia, or Vegliano, and Pasmani on our right; the strait being about a mile broad. Vegliano and Pasmani are long and narrow, and are composed of round hills completely covered with dark green bushes. On an eminence of the former is the ruined castle of St. Michael ; and some cottages and chapels are seen, prettily dis- persed towards the base. The Dalmatian coast is composed of a green rising ground, part of which seemed well cultivated ; but I observed few trees. Near the shore is seen a village, called Dido, with two small churches. The distance is terminated by the Morla- chian rocks, which are particularly grand in this part. Towards sun-set we steered within a few hundred yards of Zara, the capital of Dalmatia, situated on a peninsula, but separated from the con- tinent by an artificial canal. The fortifications are strong, and are built, as well as the houses, of the fine close-grained calcareous stone, of which the coast of Istria, Dalmatia, and its islands, are composed. Eleven churches were visible from our ship : they have a neat appearance; but the Corinthian arch, and some other Roman ruins, which indicate the site of the Colonia Iadera, were not dis- tinguishable. The present town contains about 5,000 inhabitants, and has a theatre, and some amusements ; its port is large and secure. Zara is a catholic archbishopric, and the cathedral is dedicated to Saint Grisogone, protector of the city. The fortifications of Zara rendered it a place of great strength and importance in the time of ISLANDS AND COAST OF DALMATIA, ISLAND OF LESSINA. 7 the crusades. Geoffroy de Ville-Hardouin 1 calls it, " ladies en Esclavonie, &c. Cite fermie de halz murs, et de haltes tors, et pornoiant demandesiez plus bele, ne plus fort, ne plus riche." In the night we passed near the islands of Morter and Coronata, perhaps the Portunata of Pliny, and several smaller rocks; and, the next morning, being becalmed, took the opportunity of landing at Zuri, to cut wood. This island is formed of round and rocky hills, extremely barren, producing only stunted cypresses, lentiscus, myrtles, junipers, and wild sage, which our sailors cut for fuel. The small quantity of soil on this island is planted with vines, olives, figs, and other fruit trees : it contains about one hundred and fifty inhabitants, and two small villages; the principal one is situated near the sea, and neatly built of the fine stone of the island. Oppo- site Zuri, on the Dalmatian side, is the island called Rachen ; which, although of considerable size, has not the smallest appearance of cultivation. The situation of the towns of Scardona 2 and Sebenico, 3 on the Dalmatian coast, was pointed out to us, but were not visible on account of intervening islands : the latter is a large and well- fortified place, and the see of a catholic bishop. On the 7th we passed near the islands of Solta, Trau, 4 and Bua, which intercepted the view of Spalatro, 5 and the magnificent remains of the palace of Diocletian, and two Corinthian temples. The islands of Bratsa 6 and Nirenta were to our left ; and to our right those of Lissa, 7 Melisello, and Sant' Andrea, in Pelago : the former has several villages; the two latter are little more than uninhabited rocks. On the 8th we landed at Lessina, and in an hour continued our course. The next 1 De la Conqueste de Constantinople, p. 29. Paris edit. 2 Retaining its ancient name. s The ancient Sikoun. 4 Tragurium. 5 Salon. 6 Brattia, or Brettanis. 7 Issa. This island anciently had its mint, some of its autonomous coins are known : on one of 3d, brass, is the head of Minerva — rev. a diota, or two-handled vase — ins. IX. On ano- ther is the same head— rev. a deer — ins. 12. A third has a female head — rev. a star — ins. IIIA. The diota is probably represented on its coins in allusion to its good wines, which are praised by Athenaeus in his Deipnosophista. 8 ISLAND AND TOWN OF LESSINA. morning a violent sirocco, or s. e. wind, obliged us to make the same island again. We landed in the port of the capital, which we were surprised to find a neat and elegant town, delightfully situated in a small but commodious bay, formed by two rocky promontories covered with verdure. The houses are built with stone, and are interspersed with trees, which gives the town a beautiful appearance. The general style of the place is Venetian ; it has its piazza neatly paved, at one end of which is the episcopal church, and at the oppo- site end the coffee-house. The capital contains about 1,000 inha- bitants, three churches, and two convents, and is the see of a bishop. On a hill rising from the town are the ruins of the fortress. We en- tered into conversation with some of the people, who gave us the fol- lowing information concerning their island. Its length is between sixty and seventy miles, and its greatest breadth twelve. It con- tains several villages ; and the entire population amounts to about 14,000 persons. Its principal trade is with Trieste, and the shops are well stored with different commodities. Its chief produce is wine, which is exported. Lessina is a curious mixture of fertility and barrenness. Its general face is rocky ; but, wherever a little bit of soil can be found it is planted with corn, figs, vines, oranges, and lemons. The mulberries were quite ripe, and the almond trees covered with fruit. Every thing appeared as forward here in the beginning of May as at the end of July in England. The corn was nearly ripe, the roses in full bloom ; the aloes, which were growing among the rocks, were in bud. Olives, carobas, 1 and pomegranates, also abound here ; and the fences are made with rose- mary and myrtle. The island abounds with curious plants, so strongly aromatic, that the whole air is scented with them. They exsude a glutinous matter, which, attaching itself to our clothes, as we walked 1 The Ktpwiia of Theophrastos ; Kcpana of Dioscorides ; ceratonia siliqua of Linna?us ; and the ZuXoKtpana of the modern Greeks. It is sometimes called, by the Italians, the locust tree, or St. John's bread, from a supposition that its long sweet pod was the food of St. John in the wilderness. ISLAND OF LESSINA, FESTIVAL OF SAINT PROSPERO. 9 about the rocks, so completely impregnated every thing it touched, that we were a long time before we got free of the smell. The Les- siniotes extract many different kinds of perfume from them, which are exported to Italy and Turkey, forming one of the principal branches of their commerce. The botanist would find ample em- ployment, and a rich harvest of plants, in this thirsty soil. Amongst the many flowers which enamel this curious island, are several species of the cistus, and a gnaphalium, the E\ixpuct rx KHouwot, which he says are at the extremity of Epiros, at the entrance of the Ionian gulph. They are at present called r^g xeipaoca; t« (Zowa., a name probably derived from Chimera, which according to Pliny, 1 was a castle on the Acroceraunian mountains, above the fountain of Aqua; Regiae. Procopius 2 asserts that the fortress of Xi- fjixt^a. was erected by Justinian ; but it was probably only rebuilt after having fallen in ruins. The Chimariotes are like their ancestors in the time of Cantacuzene, whom he terms Axficcvot avrovopoi voftaSes, inde- pendent shepherds. 3 The Chimariotes who inhabit the Acrocerau- nian range are a hardy and predatory race of Albanian Christians, who sometimes come out from their rocks, and carry in vessels, which they see becalmed off their coast ; our captain assured us that they sell their Christian prisoners to the Turks. hicque periclis Saepe Carinarum famosa Ceraunia surgunt. 4 As the wind seemed to forsake us on this treacherous coast, the crew were ordered out to prayers; the names of a great many saints were invoked, particularly St. Nicolo, the Neptune of the modern Greeks. Among the many terrific tales which they recounted respect- ing these fatal rocks, there was one circumstance upon which they laid particular stress, and of which they would not permit us to question the reality. They said that loud voices were always heard upon the rocks at midnight ; and that a short time before storms and sirocco winds, lights are seen dancing about upon the crags. The latter part of this story is probably less fabulous than it would at first appear ; the captain and all the sailors, declared they had frequently seen these lights, which are probably formed by the gas of carburetted ignited hydrogen, similar to that of Pietra Mala, on the Bolognese Appennines. Strabo 5 mentions a place called Nymphaion, in the 1 Nat. Hist. b. 4. c. 1. 2 De iEditiciis, b. 4. c. G. p. 74. Paris edit. 3 Hist. b. 2. c. 24. p. 275. Paris edit. 4 Ruf. Fest. Avieni Orb. Descrip.f . .538. See also the Periplus of Scylax Caryatid. 5 B. 7- p. 316. IGNITED HYDROGEN, APOLLONIA. 25 territory of Apollonia, where fire issued from the ground. Vitru- vius, 1 Pliny, 2 iElian, 3 Plutarch, 4 Dion Cassius, 5 and others, also notice it, and the latter particularly says that the flames were in- creased by rain, which is the case at Pietra Mala, where the pea- sants generally foretel heavy rains, some hours before they begin to fall, by the increasing size and fury of the flames, which issue from the ground. Asphaltus in a fluid state, is produced near Apol- lonia ; and a lucrative trade is carried on in the same sub- stance, which abounds at Seletitza, eight miles from Valona. — The fire near Apollonia is represented on a scarce silver coin of that city. On one side is the head of Apollo — inscrip. AHPI- ilNOZ — rev. three nymphs dancing before the fire — inscrip. AI10 and ANAPOMAXOS. Pausanias 6 probably alludes to the same kind of phenomenon in speaking of Bathos in Arcadia, where he says fire is seen issuing from the earth. There are other instances of ignited hydrogen in various mountainous countries ; that men- tioned by Captain Beaufort, 7 near Deliktash, is of a similar nature : he conceives it to be the same noticed by Pliny on Mount Chimaera. It is singular, that the name Chimera should also have been given to a place near the fire of Apollonia. Ctesias 8 mentions the per- petual fire near Phaselis in Lycia, which is the same described by Captain Beaufort. A similar flame is said to exist in the island of Samos. The most projecting part of the Acroceraunian mountains is a tongue of land, called from its form, Linguetta; from hence, to the nearest part of Italy, is thirty geographical miles ; but we could not discover the Italian shore, though the day was clear, the land being low. This circumstance is noticed by Virgil, where he de- scribes iEneas sailing along this coast : — 1 B. 8. c. 3. 2 Nat. Hist. b. 3. c. 23. and b. 2. c. 107. in which are several other instances of the same kind. 3 Var. Hist. b. 13. c. 16. * Life of Sylla. 5 Rom. Hist. b. 41. e B. 8. c. 29. 7 Coast of Karamania. 8 Persic. See also Aristot. de Mirandis, 139. VOL. I. E 26 COAST OF ILLYRIA. Trovehimur Pelago, vicina Ceraunia juxta, Unde Iterltaliam, Cursusque brevissimus Undis ********* Jamque rubescebat, Stellis Aurora fugatis Cum procul, obscuros Colles humilemque videmus Italiam, etc. Polybius and others, mention a great many cities and strong places along the Illyrian coast, which shews it was thickly inhabited, and well defended; and we know from the testimony of the Byzan- tine historians, that it was Avell peopled in the middle ages. Strabo mentions eleven different nations near the Acroceraunian mountains, each of which were governed by a sovereign prince; these were the Bylliones, Taulantii, Partheni, Brygi, Enchelii, Lyncestai, Douriopi, the Tripolitan Pelagonii, the Eordi, Elemeaei, and the Eraturai. Each sovereign possessed probably two or three towns, a tract of moun- tains for their flocks, and a few narrow vallies for cultivation. Other neighbouring nations were the Orestai, Paroraei, and Atintanes. Towards the Ambracian gulph were the Molossians, Amphilochians, Athamanes, iEthices, and Tymphaei; and the greater divisions of Thesprotia, Chaonia, and Cassopaea, were opposite theislands. The territories in the vicinity of the Acroceraunians at last fell under the Macedonian yoke, and were, collectively denominated Upper Macedonia, extending almost as far as Corcyra. Pausanias tells us that the Locri of Thronion, on the Boagrios, and the Abantes of Eubcea, returning from Troy with their eight vessels, were driven by a tempest on the coast of the Ceraunian mountains, and there 1 B. 3. " Near the Ceraunian rocks our coast we bore, The shortest passage to th' Italian shore ; And now the rising morn, with rosy light, Adorns the skies, and puts the stars to flight : When we from far, like bluish mists descry, The plains and humble hills of Italy." — Dryden. The last line has been altered, as the original does not give the true sense of the Latin. COAST OF EPIROS, ISLANDS NEAR CORFU. 27 built a city, which they named Thronion, and called the tract of coun- try which they occupied Abantis, but that they were afterwards ex- pelled by the neighbouring Apolloniates. 1 Near the Linguetta is a fine capacious harbour, at the extremity of which is the town of Valona, the ancient Aulon, which was formerly a large city in Chao- nia ; it is at present principally inhabited by Turks, and has six mosques. In front of the gulph of Valona is the small rocky island of Saseno, the ancient Sason ; the latitude of which, according to Lechevalier, is 40° 34' ; here are the remains of a Greek fort, which has been evidently repaired in the lower ages. Polybius 2 says it is at the entrance of the Ionian Sea. Not far from Aulon there were formerly four other cities ; Lychnidos, now supposed to be Achrida, orOchrida; Dardania, or Orikos, now Eriko, founded by a Colchian colony; Byllis, and Amantia, were nearer Corcyra. We clearly dis- tinguished Achrida and Eriko ; but the position of the other cities is unknown. Pliny 3 places the beginning of Epiros at Oricum, from which town to the Salentinian promontory in Italy, he says is eighty-five miles. Caesar landed near Orikos when on his way to attack Pompey. 4 We passed near a port called Palermo, the ancient Panormos, and saw the situation of Onchesmos, which gave the name of Onchesmites to the wind which blew from this part of Epiros to Italy. We had here the first view of Corfu, apparently attached to the eastern end of the Acroceraunian range ; and rising into two points, formed by Mount Pantokrator or Salvadore, the highest land in the island, which was near fifty miles from us. To the south of Corfu, we distinguished the uninhabited islands of Fanu, 5 Merlera, and Samotrachi, or Samandraki, and some smaller rocks, on which there are not the smallest remains of antiquity. This is reckoned 1 B. 5. c.22. 2 Hist. b. 5. p. 446. 3 Nat. Hist. b. 3. c. 23. 4 Caesar de Bello Civili. b. 3. 5 Supposed to be the ancient Ottanos, or Othones, which Procopius says may perhaps be the island of Calypso ; De Bello Goth. b. 4. c. 22. p. 628. Paris edit. E 2 28 ARRIVAL AT CORFU. the end of the Adriatic, and beginning of the Ionian Sea. The Epirote mountains were covered with snow, which had fallen during the late storm. At a great distance inland the lofty Tomaros, 1 and the still more magnificent Pindos, were distinguished rearing their white and pointed summits above the clouds. On the 27th, after passing near the Phalakron promontory, formed by Mount Pantokrator, we entered the narrow canal which separates Corfu from the coast of Epiros. The rocks which rose on our right, at the distance of a few yards, are the northern end of the highest mountain in the island, called Pantokrator ; the city of Cassiope, and temple of Jupiter Cassius, were in this situation ; in the vicinity is a church dedicated to the Madonna di Cassopo. On the opposite coast of Epiros was another Cassiope, the exact position of which is unknown ; but it was between Onches- mos and Buthroton, nearest to the latter. The ancient walls of Buthroton remain, and are composed of well-joined polygonal blocks. This place is called Bothrentos by Cantacuzene, 2 which name it still retains, although it is commonly called Butrinto by the Italians. Having passed this narrow strait, and an insulated rock called Serpa, Ave entered the widest part of the canal, which in some places opens into an expanse of about twelve miles broad. On our left was the grand range of the Epirote mountains ; on our right, the green and fertile Corfu, with its olive groves, its undulating and variegated hills, its capital, and its fortifications. "We sailed close to the island of Vido, the ancient Ptychia, and cast anchor under the walls of the city. We presented our passport and letters to Mr. Foresti, 3 (British consul-general, and since minister) who received us with all possible civility. We took up our abode at a miserable inn, the only one in the town, where every thing was so filthy, that during the nights, we were quite infested with insects; 1 Or Tmaros — Strabo, b. 7. now Tomaritz. s Hist. b. 2. c. 37. p. 321. Paris edit. 3 Now Sir Speridion Foresti, Knt. INSURRECTION AT CORFU. 29 and the first morning after our arrival, as soon as I awoke, I saw a scorpion on my pillow. The sting of the scorpion is not mortal in Greece, and is easily cured by the application of the Oleum Scor- pionum, 1 or oil in which scorpions have been infused ; the animal itself, mashed and put immediately on the wound, is said to effect a rapid cure. Their virus is proportionably stronger where the climate or the season is hotter ; in parts of Africa their sting is certain death, and the town of Pescara is deserted by its inhabitants in the sum- mer on account of the great quantity of scorpions. 2 In winter they are nearly in a torpid state, and their sting is less dangerous'. It is said, that if a scorpion is surrounded by a circle of burning coals, and finds it cannot escape, it strikes itself with its sting on the back, and immediately dies. The few scorpions I saw in Greece are about two inches in length, and generally black. I found some at Ther- mopylae about half an inch longer, and of a dull yellow tint. In Italy they are extremely common, and enter the houses as soon as the first autumnal rains commence. We had not been in the island two hours, when we heard a firing in the streets. Mr. Foresti, who Avas Avith us at the time, immediately guessed the cause, and said he was convinced that a quarrel had broken out betAveen the Greeks and the Turks ; this event having been expected for some time, OAving to the insolent and overbearing behaviour of the latter. It is necessary to mention that the Septin- sular, or Ionian Republic, Avas at that time under the protection of the Russians and the Turks, both of AA'hich nations had a fleet sta- tioned in the port of Corfu : the Turkish sailors Avere sometimes permitted to land on market-days; and being ahvays armed, paraded the streets with the greatest insolence. The immediate origin of the present affair is not Avell knoAvn ; but it is supposed that a Turk, taking improper liberties Avith the wife of a Corfuote, the husband resented the affront, in strong language, and was immediately shot Dr. Mead on Poisonous Animals. • Joann. Leo Histor. Afric, b. 6, 30 INSURRECTION AT CORFU. by the enraged Turk, in the middle of the market-place. The mur- derer was in his turn, killed by another Greek ; and the affair soon assumed a serious aspect, a general insurrection being apprehended. We heard the firing of pistols on all sides ; and curiosity leading us to the top of the house, we narrowly escaped being wounded, some balls passing close to us, one of which entered the wall a very short distance from us. Several Turks having taken refuge in a coffee-house, barricaded the door, which was broken open by the populace; and the Greek who first entered, with a pistol in each hand, killed two Turks, but was immediately cut to pieces. The populace then attempted to set fire to the house; but the Turks rushing out upon their opponents, after killing some Greeks, and losing some of their own men, retreated across the Esplanade to the fortress. Seventeen Turks, and not half that number of Greeks, lost their lives in this affair. There were not above two hundred of the former in the town, who were protected by the Russians, and conducted to the fortress. It was with the greatest difficulty that the Turkish Seraskier prevented his sailors landing, and revenging their countrymen ; had that happened, a most bloody conflict would in all probability have ensued ; for the news of the disturbance was in a few hours carried through the island, and to the opposite coast of Epiros; and in the afternoon, many thousands of well-armed and determined Greeks were collected round the walls of the city, pant- ing with the desire of dyeing their swords in Moslem blood ; and as some said, of pillaging the town. The Russians apprehending a continuation of these disturbances, landed five hundred men, who took possession of the fort which is near the Esplanade, and commands the city, dismissing the weak Septinsular garrison, supposing them unable to resist any sudden assault of the Turks. The senate passed a general pardon ; the in- habitants were prohibited bearing arms ; and our consul, Mr. Foresti, by his influence and personal courage, was very instru- mental in restoring tranquillity. The next day we paid a visit to the Turks in the castle, and were received with much civility by the INSURRECTION AT CORFU. 31 Capigi Bashi. After pipes and coffee, and a short conversation, which we carried on by means of our dragoman, or interpreter, we took our leave, and were shewn into a long chamber, serving as an hospital to about forty Turks, who were wounded in the late affair, and who were lying on mattresses placed on the ground ; some of them were at that moment breathing their last. We were glad to turn away from such scenes ! and quitted the mansion of death with disgust. We were next conducted by our consul, to pay our respects to the President of the Republic, Count George Theotochi, a venera- ble old man, who is styled Prince, or Archon. We were received by his Excellence and the senators, with every mark of attention, in a small and badly-furnished room. They expressed their alarm at the late unfortunate event ; appearing uneasy as to what might fol- low, and more apprehensive of the villagers of their own island than of the Turks themselves. They provided us with letters for the dif- ferent islands of the Republic, which were afterwards of considera- ble service to us. We also visited the Seraskier on board his ves- sel: nothing could be more kind than the reception he gave us; there was great order and neatness throughout the Turkish ships, which may be said, in point of cleanliness, to vie with English vessels. In the cabin of the Seraskier I observed the portrait of Lord Nelson. CHAPTER II. Compendium of the history of Corcyra— small islands near it— villages, produce. Departure from Corfu. Islands of Paxos and Antipaxos. Town of Parga. Arrival at Santa Maura. Ruins of Leucas — Lover's Leap — villages — produce. Town of Prebeza — Ruins of Nicopolis — Ambracian gulph. Departure from Santa Maura — manner in which the pirates treat their prisoners. Tapbian, or Tele- boian islands — Ithaca — villages — ports — produce — mountains — ruins of a castle and city — other ruins. Fount Arethusa. Medals of Ithaca. Albanian robbers. Island of Cephallenia. End of my first Tour in this part of Greece. K«< Xnrupyj KegKUpa. (piXov trilov AXkivooio. 1 Before I undertake the description of modern Corfu, it will be necessary to give a succinct account of its ancient history, with- out entering into long details, which are foreign to the plan I pro- pose to follow throughout the present work ; nor have I time to in- vestigate the question whether Phaeacia is Judaea, or Alcinoos Solo- mon ? which is the opinion of a learned man of our country ; and, although the Odyssey has not the same character of geographical veracity, which is so conspicuous in the Iliad, yet it cannot be allowed that the Phaeacia of Homer is a Laputa, or a Brobdignag. The origin of the word Ionian (which is given to the islands on this coast from the Ionian gulph) is not known with any degree of certainty ; iEschylus 2 and Hyginus 3 attribute it to Io, the daughter of Inachus ; Strabo 4 says that Theopompus derives it from Ionios, an inhabitant of Issa. The ancient names of Corfu are Scheria, 1 Dionys. Orb. Descrip. v. 494 ; and fertile Corcyra, the loved land of Alcinoos. * In his Prometheos, v. 846. 3 Fab. 145. 4 B. 7. p. 317. CORFU. 33 Phaeacia, Drepane, Makris, Argos, Kerkura, or Korkura, the Latin Corcyra. The modern name of Corfu, or Korphu, is derived from Koruphoi, from its double Acropolis. Some of the Byzantine his- tories 1 call it Korupho, but Procopius says it was still named Kerkura in his time, 2 and Boccaccio, in one of his stories, calls it Gurfo. It is now named by the Greeks Ko P BTi*.oij viqiru ti poem: ikvu.ro TtovroTto^og vyog <£>opx.vvog oe rig ev ^payywv E0>oc £*. ™" i"Trcptm\ Annal. Pars. 4. p. 333. Paris ed. See Constantine Porphyrog. c. 28. p. 69, De administ. Imp. 2 See 276th note of Casaubon, in Dionem Diatriba of Chrysostom. M 2 84 ISLAND OF ZAKUNTHOS. applicable to the town, but not to the island ; which, compared with the others of the Ionian sea, and the Archipelago, merits rather the appellation of low. Whether Zakunthos took its name from the companion of Her- cules, or from the son of Dardanus, must ever remain doubtful. Pausanias 1 affirms that the Acropolis was built by Zakunthos, who named it Psophis, after his native city in Arcadia. Diodorus Siculus 2 says there was a castle called Arcadia, in Zakunthos. The castle was besieged, 3 and, as well as the whole island, taken by the Consul Laevinus about two hundred and eleven years b. c. It after- wards belonged to Philip, son of Demetrius : it was given by him to Amynander, king of Athamania; it next belonged to the Achai- ans, and afterwards to the Romans, about a hundred and ninety-one years b. c. 4 Strabo 5 says that the island was woody, but fertile ; and that its city was of some importance. Livy 6 calls it a small island neariEtolia ; he mentions its citadel, the site of which is occupied by the modern castle. Pliny 7 praises its fertility, and the magnificence of its city ; and says that it was once called Hyrie. The inhabitants still retain the character of rich and voluptuous, which is attributed to them by the ancients. There is a family in the island which bears the impe- rial name of Palaiologos ; they are wealthy merchants. Zakunthos is in the diocese of the Bishop of Cephallenia, for whom a Protopapas resides in the island to take care of the ecclesi- astical affairs. For two bishops which are chosen from Cephallenia, one only is appointed from Zakunthos, the latter being the smaller of the two. The Ionian islands have the privilege of nominating their bishop, and the choice is confirmed by the Constantinopolitan patriarch. In other places, the patriarch and his synod nominate. 1 B. 8. c. 24. "- B. 15. c. 45. 3 Livy, b. 26. c. 24,. 4 Livy, b. 36. c. 31, 32. s B. 10. p. 458. • B. 26. c. 24. * Nat. Hist b. 4, c. 12- & & ^ ISLAND OF ZAKUNTHOS. 85 The fort, which is inhabited by some poor families, is in a very dila- pidated state. I was told that a triglyph of white marble is seen in the wall. The principal temple was probably of the doric order. The greater part of the port is surrounded by the town, which is long and narrow, and built close to the water. The houses are neat and white, and the glittering appearance which they make forms an exquisite contrast with the dark-green hills which rise behind. The soil and rocks are calcareous, like those of the rest of the Ionian islands, and generally of a light colour. The industry of the people is abundantly manifested in the cultivation of the land. Every gen- tleman has his country-house and his vineyard, which produces good wine. The great plain, which constitutes the most fertile part of the island, was drained in the year 1673 by Angelo Barbarigo. Its surface is now covered with a luxuriant profusion of olive groves, vineyards, and plantations of currant and fruit-trees of all species. This island is subject to slight earthquakes ; from which dreadful scourge it suffered considerably in the sixteenth century. 1 The islands of Zakunthos, Cephallenia, Ithaca, and Leucadia, belonged for a considerable time in the middle ages, to Counts Pala- tine, who paid a kind of homage to the princes of Achaia. 2 They were taken from the Count Leonardo de Tocco by Mohamed the Second. 3 It is surprising that the measures of Strabo and Pliny should differ so materially concerning Zakunthos ; I have before observed, that these authors are generally at variance ; and both of them err more palpably in their measurements of islands than in those of the terra firma. The circuit of islands was probably sometimes calculated in a gene- ral way, from cape to cape; and at other times by taking in all the bays, ports, and sinuosities ; which latter mode of calculation would greatly increase the circumference. 1 Due Michael Nepot. Hist. Byzant. c. 33. p. 125. Paris edit. 4 Hist, de Constantinop. sous les Empp. Francois, b. 6. p. 213. 214. Paris edit. 3 Ibid. 86 ISLAND OF ZAKUNTHOS. Strabo and Pliny are however both entirely mistaken in either me- thod of computation : the former gives one hundred and sixty stadia to the circuit of Zakunthos, and sixty as its distance from Cephal- lenia. It is however forty miles in circuit, and the distance be- tween the contiguous capes of the two islands is six miles. The latter makes the circumference thirty-six miles, and the distance from Cephallenia twenty-two. Strabo no doubt reckons only from cape to cape ; and in that case, he is not far from the truth. Pliny evidently reckons from the capitals of the two islands. 1 From the capital of this island to that of Ithaca is a distance of about forty-two miles. Pliny 2 says the two islands are twelve miles from each other, but he is much beyond the mark. A few insular rocks are scattered about near the shore of Zakunthos ; in the port of Cheri are two, one of which is called Marathonesi, or island of Fennel ; on it is a small Greek church. I was anxious to ascend Mount Skopo in order to enjoy that view from its summit, which M. Lechevalier 3 has described as one of the most sublime which Greece affords ; and its majestic height, combined with its insulated situation, made me disposed to assent to his opinion ; but on account of the quarantine regulations I could not obtain permission to land. Towards the end of my journey, Signior Pomardi returned here, and took several valuable drawings and panoramas about the island ; particularly one from the summit abovementioned ; in which, besides the objects described in my first view of the island, are seen the sum- mits of Olenos, Ithome, 4 Lycaeon, 5 and Taygeton, the latter being at least eighty-four miles distant. The Cyparissian coast is faintly distinguished stretching far out into the sea, and on the Eleian shore is discovered the mouth of the Alpheios, and the elegant hills above Olympia. Towards the south are seen the Strophades, at the 1 Nat. Hist. b. 4. c. 12. "- Ibid. 3 Voyage de la Troade. * Distant about fifty-two miles. 5 Distant about fifty-four miles. ISLAND OF ZAKUNTHOS. 87 distance of twenty-four miles ; Pliny says they are thirty-five miles from Zakunthos. They were also called Plotae, 1 on one of them is a Greek monastery. They anciently belonged to the Cyparissians, and were more known from the fable of the Harpies than from any other cause. They produce good wine, olives, oranges, and figs. During our stay at this place, we were obliged to pass the whole time on board : we made however a panorama from the ship, from which the town and port, the islands, and the Peloponnesos, were seen to great advantage. TO MESALOGGION. On the 11th we proceeded on our voyage. To the left was the promontory of Kruo-nero, and a small church dedicated to the all holy (Virgin) Tlavayia. Before us were the islands of Cephallenia, Ithaca, the faint hills of Leucadia, the Echinades, with the mountains of Epiros, Acar- nania, iEtolia, and Locris. To the right was Achaia, Arcadia, the plains of Eleia, and cape Chelonatas, the most western point of the Peloponnesos ; the modern remains of Castle-Tornesi, or Torneo, called Klemoutzi by the Turks, are seen on the hill which rises from the sea. 1 Hyginus, fab. 14. Pliny, Nat. Hist. b. 4. c. 12. Apollon. Rhod. b. 2. v. 296. Pomp. Mela de situ orbis, b. 2. c. 7. 88 FROM ZAKUNTHOS TO MESALOGGION. Not far from the cape we sailed over an extensive shoal, which I shall have occasion to notice more particularly in my account of Doulichion. We passed by a small cape and village, called Kurnia, the port of Tropito, and several insulated rocks, the largest of which is called Kaukallda, and has a small church on it. These are probably the rocks noticed by Strabo 1 opposite cape Chelonatas, on the confines of Elis ; he calls them v^shU ^ax^«.. On the sea shore about six miles north of Chelonatas are the im- perfect remains of Cyllene, the arsenal 2 of the Eleians, now called Chiarentza, Klarentza, or Glarentza, 3 which, even in the time of Strabo, was reduced to the size of a moderate village. 4 In Venetian maps this coast is generally called Kaloskopi, or Bel- vedere ; it is also thus named by some travellers, but neither of these appellations are in common use amongst the inhabitants, although the town of Elis is sometimes called by the former name. During the night we passed through the Cyllenian gulph, and near the promontory of Araxos, called cape Papa. It anciently separated the Eleian from the Achaian territory. 5 We sailed be- tween the gulph of Patra and the Echinades, and, early in the morn- ing of the 32th, cast anchor five miles from the town of Mesalog- gion in iEtolia, the distance from Zakunthos being fifty-three miles. This place is little more than a large village. It is built on a projecting neck of land close to the sea, which, at this point, is too shallow to admit the approach of ships. We were conveyed on shore in a small boat, or ploiarion. As the water was in some places not more than two feet deep, we were frequently aground ; when the boatman was compelled to get out and exert his strength in shoving us off. The bottom is composed of mud and weeds, and is nearly dry during the summer months. B. 8. p. 338. 2 Thucyd. b. 1. c. 30. nrivuov ■ Strabo, b. 8. p. 337. George Phranza Protovest, b. 2. c. 3. w^ /uTpta. 5 Strabo, b. 8. c. 33. MESALOGGION. 89 These lagunes, which extend for several miles along the coast, between the Acheloos and Evenos, produce a surprising quantity of the finest fish, which are salted and exported to various parts of Greece. A considerable commerce is also carried on with the bo- targo, or roe of the white mullet, which is esteemed a great deli- cacy in fast time, and sells high. The marshes abound with a great variety of wild fowl, from which the Mesaloggians draw considerable profit. It is about nine miles from this place to the town and island of Natoliko, forty to the town of Dragomestra, twenty-seven to Nepaktos, and twelve to the village of Galata, near the Evenos. Mr. Samuel Strani had given me a letter to one of the principal Greeks of Mesaloggion, named Pantelio Palamari, 1 by whom we were hospitably entertained, and to whom I am indebted for most of my information respecting its modern state. But as I was unwilling to place implicit confidence in the statements or opinions of any one individual, I had recourse to the schoolmaster, who is regarded as a man of learning ; and his representations coincided so nearly with those of Palamari, that I think there can be no reason for doubt- ing the intelligence which they communicated. I pursued the same plan throughout the whole of my journey, and by consulting and cross-questioning several persons on the same sub- ject, the truth was generally obtained. I made acquaintance with another Greek, who was presented to me as a 4>, Theophrastus. Hist. Plant. 2 2,220 of these pounds make an English ton. 3 His archiepiscopal name. 94 ANCIENT CITY NEAR MESALOGGION. Franks have tortured into the word mosque ; which is more generally called Giami, or Djeamy, by the Turks. The menar, menareh, menaret, or minaret, is the round tower which contains a winding stair-case leading to the schurse, or gallery, from which the Muezzinn, or El Mudden, sings the ezann, or invitation to prayer, which occurs five times in the twenty-four hours — one hour before break of day ; the next at sun-rise ; at noon ; at three ; and at sun-set. Some of the imperial mosques at Constantinople have six mina- rets ; each of which has three galleries ; the body of the minaret is fluted, or has the fluting indicated ; it is always painted white ; and under the gallery are neckings and mouldings in relief, painted red or blue. The top of the minaret terminates in a point covered with gilt lead, surmounted with the crescent — the emblem of igno- rance ! The body of the mosque is ornamented with porticos, rich marbles, carpets, and fountains, and terminates in a cupola of a low, but bold and elegant form. The smaller mosques, like that of Mesaloggion, are simple and unadorned, and have a pointed roof instead of a cupola, a plain minaret with one gallery, without paint- ing, gilding, or ornaments of any kind. The mosques are extremely elegant, the minarets and domes form a striking contrast. The females of Mesaloggion have a singularly rich costume ; their long outward garment being of some vivid colour; generally red, pur- ple, blue, or yellow ; a coloured shawl is tied round the head, with one of the ends hanging down the back. On the 13th we set off on horseback, to visit the ruins of an an- cient city r , situated about four miles to the north of this place. Palamari advised us to take with us some armed men, as the roads we had to pass were sometimes infested with robbers ; for the iEto- lians of the present age are not much better than those of the time of Polybius, who says 1 that they neither maintained the laws of 1 B. 4. c. 67, Sec ANCIENT CITY NEAR MESALOGGION. 95 peace or of war, but robbing both friends and foes, were entirely devoted to plunder. Thucydides 1 does not give a much better cha- racter of these warlike robbers, and Livy 2 calls them a restless, vain, and ungrateful people. Our road led through a plain abounding in olives, corn, low vines, and pasture ; we passed near a picturesque church ; and arriving at the foot of the hill on which the ruins stand, very injudiciously left our horses, and had a fatiguing walk of half an hour before we reached the walls ; and being then overtaken by a dreadful storm, were obliged to take shelter in a shepherd's hut. The weather at length clearing, we were enabled to examine these interesting re- mains, which are some of the most perfect in Greece. When we reached the summit of the hill, we were deeply impressed by the view which it displayed. The features are truly beautiful ; and the objects are rich in classical interest. Towards the east is seen the lofty and rocky Mount Chalcis, rising abruptly from the sea, and closing the view of the Corinthian gulph; on the opposite side of which are distinguished the town of Patra, and the Achaian mountains. More to the south are the low hills of Elis, surmounted by the loftier summits of the Arcadian Olenos. The Araxian promontory stretches far into the sea .: and the situ- ations of Dyme, Pharai, and Cyllene, are distinguishable. The Peloponnesos is terminated by cape Chelonatas. Towards the north are seen the islands of Zakunthos and Cephal- lenia ; and more to the west is Ithaca and the Echinades. Below the eye is the town of Mesaloggion ; and at about nine miles to the east, the Evenos, flowing through a rich and varied plain, inter- spersed with villages. In the opposite direction is the winding Acheloos, dividing the iEtolian and Acarnanian plains, studded with many insulated hills ; which were probably at one time, B. 1. c.5. "■ B. 36. c. 17. 96 ANCIENT CITY NEAR MESALOGGION. islands near the mouth of that river. The principal villages near the mouth of the Acheloos are Enneachori, Katoki, and Magoula. The hills which bound the iEtolian plain towards the north, inter- cept the view over the obscure nations or tribes of the Agraioi, Amphilochoi, Athamanes, Bomieis, Kallieis, Apodotoi, Dolopes, Peraeboi, the iEnianes, the Eurytanes, and Ophieis, little districts, whose history is imperfectly given by the ancients ; seldom visited, and by no means ascertained by the moderns. This country was confined, rugged, and mountainous; and the inhabitants hardy, warlike, and rapacious. I was assured by two observing and learned travellers, 1 indeed I believe the only ones who have visited those dis- tricts in detail, that this mountainous tract contains the remains of many small walled cities, and the ruins of some theatres, but no traces of any temples. Thucydides asserts that some of these tribes lived upon raw flesh. 2 The ruins of the city near Mesaloggion are called rrj; Kupiccg E^^j ro kk(tt(>o (Saint Eirene's castle) : there are several other places in Greece named after this saint, who was a Thessalonican, and suffered mar- tyrdom under the emperor Diocletian. The country people here have a notion that three large chests are concealed among the ruins ; two containing gold, and the third serpents, which watch over the treasure day and night. The walls of the city seem not to be above two miles in circuit, extending round the summit of a steep and oblong hill, with the Acropolis at the western extremity. It had two gates, one facing the north, the other the east ; the former remains entire ; the other is without its lintel, which is seen among the ruins. The general thickness of the walls is eight feet ; they are com- posed of large and well-united blocks, some of which are nine feet in length. The interior of the wall is filled with smaller stones 1 Colonel Leake and Mons. Pouqueville. • B.,3. c. 94. ANCIENT CITY NEAR MESALOGGION. 97 and rubbish, which form a mass of a durable and resisting quality. This is the emplecton of Vitruvius, 1 which he says the Greeks did not use : he is however mistaken, as I have seen it in walls of high antiquity, although the Greek walls are frequently a solid mass of large stones. The blocks are generally quadrilateral, but few of them are rectangular; they are sometimes equilateral, but more generally lengthened rhomboids. The general disposition of the layers is horizontal; but their thickness varies so much, that in some places one layer is as broad as the three adjoining ones ; the angular irregularities are filled up with smaller stones. I have been more particular in describing the walls of this town, because they furnish some of the best specimens of this irregular style. But that I may not weary the attention of the reader by details respecting the walls of the many ancient cities which I shall have occasion to mention, I have in the Appendix, exhibited spe- cimens of the four principal styles of construction, from the heroic ages to the time of Alexander. The walls of the Acropolis have the appearance of higher antiquity than those lower down ; parts of them have evidently been de- stroyed, and rebuilt. They are protected by equidistant square towers, which ex- tend all round the town ; the upper story has fallen, but the lower part is well preserved, and the steps which lead up to the entrances are still remaining. On the south side of the city, close to the walls, are the ruins of the smallest theatre in Greece : several of the seats are perfect, and the lateral walls are in a less ancient style than those of the city, being nearly regular. The scene is covered with large blocks of stone, and overgrown with lentiscus. Nearly in the centre of the town is a fiat oblong space upon the rock, on which are some beautiful foundations highly preserved, and several square bases with simple mouldings, extending round it ; 1 B. 2. c. vol. i. o 98 ANCIENT CITY NEAR MESALOGGION. upon which were probably pilasters, or square pillars, supporting a portico ; this must have been the Agora. Near this is a semicircular foundation, only ten feet in diameter. It appears that the water of the city was preserved in large cisterns, for there is no spring in or near it. Not far from the theatre is a large reservoir of singular construction, probably built for that purpose, or for a granary. It is a quadrilateral chamber, cut down perpendicularly into the rock ; across the breadth of this chamber are four parallel walls, reaching to the surface of the rock ; the intermediate spaces appear to have been roofed by long flat stones. The blocks which compose this curious edifice are much smaller than those in the walls of the city ; and the few irregularities in their forms are evidently not systematical; they are well united; but the exterior surface is rustic, or rough. In each of these walls are three apertures, or gate-ways, of un- equal dimensions, of a pyramidal form, terminating at top in an acute angle. There are gates of this form at Mycenae, Tiryns, and at some of the Grecian cities in Italy. Savary mentions one of the same kind at the island of Phila in the Nile. The gate of the town which faces the north is entire ; it is covered with a flat architrave, and diminishes gradually from the base to the summit, like all the Grecian doors and windows, 1 and like some which were of Roman construction. 2 This is a form which seems to have originated in Egypt, of which there are still numerous examples; and the same is observable on the Tavola Iliaca in the Capitol. Towards the Acropolis is a chamber, cut down into the rock, and coated with stones nearly of a regular form, on which are some re- mains of a hard stucco. The dimensions of this chamber are twenty- five feet by twenty-one, and the depth about six feet : seven steps lead 1 As in the Ercchtheion at Athens. 3 A circular building at Tivoli, called the Sibyl's Temple. ANCIENT CITY NEAR MESALOGGION. 99 down to it. It was probably a bath or cistern, as the stucco proves that it was made to contain water. Amongst the ruins of the city are several heaps of coarse tiles, and fragments of terra cotta vases ; but not the smallest piece of marble, inscriptions, or architectural ornaments, except the bases in the Agora. Its ancient name is accordingly extremely dubi- ous : the learned of Mesaloggion will have it to be Calydon ; and were angry and disappointed when I proved to them that Calydon was situated several miles from this spot, on the banks of the Evenos. Pausanias scarcely mentions iEtolia; and Strabo is less particular in his description of places than could be wished ; he makes however some observations on the coast between the two rivers, which may serve to elucidate the subject. Having described Acarnania and the Acheloos, he says, 1 " Then comes the marsh of the CEniadai, called Melite, thirty stadia in length and twenty in breadth : then another called Cynia, twice the length and breadth of the former ; and then a third named Una, much smaller than Cynia, joins the sea ; the others are half a stadium from it/' The marsh Melite may possibly be a gulph of the sea, which washes the base of the hill on which the abovementioned ruins stand. Nearly in the middle of it is the low island and town of Natoliko, which has also given its name to the marsh : it has the appear- ance of a lake, and is enclosed by hills on all sides, except at its mouth, which seems to have been formed by an irruption of the sea, with which Sir W. Gell 2 erroneously says it has no communi- cation. Uria has probably also united its waters with the sea; for the marshes which stretch out along the iEtolian shore, and the whole country between the two rivers, have evidently undergone the greatest changes, owing to the increase of land at their mouths, and a proportionate encroachment of the sea in the intermediate plain. 1 B. 10. p. 459. - Tour in Ithaca. O 2 100 ANCIENT CITY NEAR MESALOGGION. If then the marsh Natoliko is the Melite of Strabo, the ancient town near it may be CEniadai, which belonged at different periods to the Acarnanians and /Etolians. Livy 1 says that Laevinus took it from the former, and gave it to the latter. In the same passage, the historian mentions Naxus, which is the Nasos, or Nesos, of Polybius.* Thucydides 3 and Stephanus mention the CEniadai as in Acarnania ; the latter says it was also called Erysicha. Strabo first mentions CEniadai ; then the Acheloos ; and then the marsh of CEniadai ; as if the marsh and the town were on different sides of the river. Polybius, 4 after relating the passage of Philip over the Acheloos into TEtolia, mentions the cities of Thermon, Stratos, Thestia, Agri- nion, Konope, Lysimachia, Trikonion, Phoiteon, and Metapa : he speaks highly of the strength and riches of Thermon ; which was looked upon as the citadel of all iEtolia, and had a temple con- taining two thousand statues. He afterwards mentions the town of Akrai, and a village called Pamphia. 5 His description of CEniadai agrees in some respects with the si- tuation of the ruins in question. He says it is on the coast, near the mouth of the Corinthian gulph, in the extremity of the limits which separate Acarnania and iEtolia. Pausanias 6 tells us that the Messenians, after the third war, when they had possession of Naupaktos, besieged and took CEniadai ; the Acarnanians at length retook it, and the Messenians returned through iEtolia to Naupaktos. Although Pausanias places the town in Acarnania, it is probable that the Messenians would have met with difficulties and opposition in crossing the Acheloos, which they must have done, had it been on the Acarnanian side ; and in this case, it would have been noticed by the historian : his silence on the subject might lead to a suppo- sition, that CEniadai was on the east and not on the west side of the river. 1 B. 2fl. c. 24. ; B. 9. p. 570. 3 B. 2. c. 102. *B. 5. p.356. J B.4. p. 329. 6 B. 4. c. 25. ANCIENT CITY NEAR MESALOGGION. 101 Cyriac of Ancona says that in his time (1436) (Eniadai was called Trigardon : he mentions a theatre, two citadels, and polygon walls. I understand there are some ruins answering this description near the mouth of the Acheloos, on its west bank, and of greater extent than the city near Natoliko. Ortelius will have it that Dragamestre is CEniadai ; but that place is at least thirty-six miles to the north-west of the ruins in question. The autonomous copper coins of CEniadai are not uncommon, and generally have the head of Jupiter on one side, and that of Acheloos on the other, represented as Sophocles describes it in his Trachinise, under the form of a human face, with horns, upon a bull's neck, round which is the inscription OINIAAAN. This symbolical representation 1 of rivers is seen on several coins of Italy, particularly Naples, Capua, Nola, iEsernia, Cales, Compul- teria, Suessa, and Teanum. The same type is also on the Sicilian coins of Gelas, Tauromenium, Agyrina, Aluntium, and Euboea. The limits of iEtolia and Acarnania appear formerly to have un- dergone many changes ; partly owing to natural causes, and partly to the unsettled state of the governments of the two neighbouring na- tions; and these circumstances have occasioned great difficulties to those travellers who would now wish to ascertain the localities of an- cient cities. Strabo according to all appearance never visited this part of Greece ; to which may be attributed his numerous errors and contra- dictions. Many difficulties also arise from the omissions in his manu- scripts, and the interpolations of copyists. He makes the distance from the mouths of the Acheloos and Evenos only one hundred stadia; it is however at least seventeen miles. 1 See upon this subject, Millingen Recueil de quelque medailles Grecques ined. pub. at Rome in 1812, p. 6, &c. ; and the opinions of Eckliel Doct. Num. Veter. t. 1. p. 129. 102 RIVER ACHELOOS. Hesiod 1 and Dionysius Periegetes 2 give the epithet of silvery (ewyupo&viis) to the Acheloos. Homer, 3 for a similar reason, gives the same epithet to the Thessalian Peneios, whose muddy waters resem- ble the Acarnanian river. This celebrated river, which Homer 4 calls xpeiuv A%eX&)ibj, comes ac- cording to Thucydides, 5 " from mount Pindos, through the territo- ries of Dolopia, Agraia, Amphilochia, and the plain of Acarnania, passing near the city of Stratos, and that of the CEniadai, and entering the sea through that space which is between these two cities, overflows its bed, and surrounds the CEniadai with marshes." It receives in its course several tributary mountain streams, par- ticularly the Inachos, the Thestios, and the Petitaros. Aristotle says it often changes its course; which is still the case. After heavy rains, and the melting of the snow on Pindos, it sometimes leaves its bed, to the great detriment of the neighbouring plains and villages. A few years ago it entered the sea much nearer Mesaloggion ; but it has since retired into its ancient channel. Strabo asserts that it was once named Thoas ; and Plutarch 6 informs us, that its first name was Axenos, which it changed for that of Thestios, because the son of Mars and Pisidike drowned himself in it. It then took the name of Acheloos, who was son of Ocean, and of a Na'id nymph, and who also was drowned in it. According to Ortelius, modern authors have given it the various names of Aspri, Catochis, Geromlea, and Pachicolamo. Its present name is however Aspro Potamos (the white river). I have seen several terra cotta vases, on which this bull-formed river is re- 1 Deor. Generat. v. 340. • Orbis descrip. v. 433. 3 Iliad, 2. v. 7.32. 4 Iliad, 21. v. 1&4. 5 B. 2. c. 102. c De Flumin. RIVER ACHELOOS. 103 presented, and it is always painted white, allusive no doubt to the colour of its water. Ancient history is full of the wars and disputes between the Acar- nanians and iEtolians, on account of the frequent loss or acquisition of territory occasioned by this river changing its course ; and the apparently fabulous history of Hercules and Acheloos 1 seems to have originated from real facts ; to which the fertile and emblematical ge- nius of the first historians or poets has given the appearance of fiction. The first historians were poets ; and the first language of his- tory was poetry, which always exaggerates and disfigures the plain- est and most simple events ; and these are still more distorted by poets of a later date. " Non philosophorum judicia, sed delirantium somnia. Nee enim multo absurdiora sunt ea, qua?, poetarum voci- bus fusa, ipsa suavitate nocuerunt/' 2 The ancient Paracheloitai never seriously believed that their river had assumed the various forms of a man, a bull, and a serpent, any more than the Eleians, that their nymph had been changed into the fountain Arethusa. Homer never really believed, or in- tended others to imagine, that Achilles had actually fought with the Scamander. He probably turned its course ; which told in the poetical style of early times, assumes the semblance of fable, although the narration is merely emblematical. These were the igot Xoyoi, 3 or sacred traditions of the earliest ages. It is not surprising that the Acheloos should in its course have taken a variety of forms. Rivers 1 Avere often represented rav^efM^poi; from their shape or the roaring of their streams. The wanderings of the Maeander and Cayster, were compared to several letters of the Greek alphabet; the Euphrates, near Babylon, 1 See Philostrat. Jun. Icon. Here, vel Acheloos ; and Joan. Malala, Chronograph, b. 6. • Cicero de Nat. Deor. b. 1 . 3 Herodot. * Homer, Iliad 21. v. 237. Sophoc. Trachin. v. 11. Euripid. Ion. v. 1261. Scholiast of Euripid. Orest. v. 1378. Horace Carm. b. 4. v. 25. Strabo, b. 10. Dr. Bentley's Diss, on Phalaris, p. 512. 104 RIVER ACHELOOS. and the Forth, near Sterling, assume many different shapes, from their numerous sinuosities. The Aeheloos, overflowing its natural limits, inundated and destroy- ed the neighbouring plains, and was checked by the powerful assist- ance of some wealthy person, who restored fertility to the surrounding country, by turning the stream into its original channel ; or, in poetical language, by breaking off the horn of the bull, and pre- senting it to the Goddess of Plenty. What V irgil says of the Tiber is applicable to the Aeheloos ; par- ticularly after rains : — " Vorticibus rapidis, et multa flavus arenfr In mare prorumpit." 1 The Paracheloitis is the horn of the bull, and the gift of the Aehe- loos, as the Delta is of the Nile ; the richness of its soil is not sur- passed by any land in Greece. The increase of territory near the mouth of the river, is not owing to the retiring of the sea, but to the accumulation of mud and sand, brought down by the rapidity of the streams. To the same cause may chiefly be attri- buted the very rapid and extraordinary encroachments in most parts of the Italian coast ; particularly at Adria, Ravenna, the mouths of the Po, and the Roman shore. The same was the case on the Alba- nian coast in Asia, where the Cyrus entered the sea. Pliny 2 men- tions the retiring of the sea in the Ambracian gulph, and the union of many islands to the continent of Asia Minor. Strabo, 3 or his transcribers, are guilty of a contradiction, in say- ing that Acarnania is between the Aeheloos and Evenos ; whereas a few lines above, he says the former river separates Acarnania from iEtolia. In other places, the error, which cannot be his own, is rec- tified. iEtolia Proper was probably the country of the Curetes ; ' JEneid, 7. v. 31. ° Nat. Hist. b. 2. c. 89. 3 B. 8. p. 336. THE ECHINADES. 105 iEtolus, son of Endymion, gave it his name: it was also called apx,a,ix and opBivfj. The geographer 1 tells us, that the country between the Evenos and Antirrhion, is JEtolia Epictetos, or acquired. Scylax, 2 Herodotus, 3 and Thucydides, 4 assert that some of the Echi- nades are joined to the continent by the agglomeration of mud from the Acheloos ; and that probably all the others will in time ex- perience a similar fate. Strabo 5 and Pausanias 6 are of the same opinion ; and the geographer particularly mentions one island, named Artemia, which in his time, formed part of the continent. Pliny 7 mentions the same circumstance ; Strabo says they were near the mouth of the Acheloos ; the most distant being only fifteen stadia from it. He calls them Au7rpa< xa< Tpa%6 Metam. b. 8. v. 727. Tab. 9 Theb. 4. v. 838. ,0 De Flumin. II B. 10. p. 451. 110 THE EVENOS. Bomiaii, in the country of the Ophieis in iEtolia. It enters the sea by two mouths. The chief villages which are seen on the banks of this river in the iEtolian plain are Galata and Bochori. Spon 1 conceives that the former is Calydon ; but the city of Meleager was probably some miles from the sea, on the left bank of the Evenos, where there are the remains of a city and Acropolis, composed of magnificent walls, constructed nearly in a regular manner. Thucydides 2 says the iEtolians were a warlike people, and lived in villages without walls. Strabo 3 says that there were once ten cities in iEtolia ; but I find a greater number 4 mentioned by ancient authors. 1 Voyage en Grece. 2 B. 3. c. 94. 3 B. 10. p. 46S. 311 CHAPTER IV. Departure from Mesaloggion. Corinthian gulph— its various denominations. Arrival at Patra— antiqui- ties and modern state of that city. Mount Panachaikos — the castle — large cypress— slaves— mounts Chalcis and Taphiassos. Departure for Galaxidi. Promontories of Rhion and Antirrhion. Promon- tory of Drepanon. Nepaktos. Description of Galaxidi. Dance and Carnival of the inhabitants- costumes. FROM MESALOGGION TO PATRA. On the afternoon of the 14th, we quitted Mesaloggion for Patra, with a fair wind ; and passing near the mouths of the Evenos, en- joyed a fine view of Mount Chalcis, rising majestically from the sea. It is said that there are still some remains of the city of Chalcis, or Hypochalcis, 1 at the foot of this mountain. Strabo 2 says that some made the Corinthian gulph begin between Cape Araxos and the mouth of the Acheloos, which are one hundred stadia apart, but that others reckoned it from the Evenos. It does not however assume the appearance of a strait, until it reaches that part which is between Patra and Mount Chalcis, the precipices of which seem opposed as a natural barrier to the fury of the open sea ; the distance between the opposing shores not being apparently above four miles. Livy 3 and Pliny 4 place its mouth at Rhion; the latter gives it the length of eighty-five miles ; it is however only sixty from Patra to Corinth by sea. The gulph had the general appellation of Corinthian as far as the isthmus, but it was divided into smaller bays, the names of which Strabo, b. 10. p. 451. - B. 8. p. 450. 3 J3. 28. c. 7. 4 Nat. Hist. b. 4. c. 2. 112 GULPH OF CORINTH. were sometimes poetically used for the entire gulph. Its different names were the Krissaean, Cirrhaean, Delphic, Calydonian, Rhion, and Halcyonian. Thucydides 1 says the Krissaean began at the promontory of the Achaian Rhion. The geographer evidently distinguishes it from the Corinthian gulph, in which he has been followed by Ptolemy. Scylax 2 makes the breadth of the Delphic gulph at its mouth ten stadia; he accordingly means the space between Rhion and Antirrhion. The Halcyonian was that part of the gulph now called Libadostro. Strabo 3 tells us it was near Pegai, the ruins of which are in the recess of Libadostro, to the north of Corinth, formed by the Olmian pro- montory and the Boeotian coast, at the foot of the Oneian mountains. It seems that the words koXtto? and Qx\oco/;. The female Arnaut costume is nearly the same through the whole of Greece ; but that of the Greek female varies in different parts of the country, particularly in the Archipelago, where every island has its fashion. The Galaxidiote women all wear the Arnaut costume ; they have a long robe of a light colour ; the sides and bottom are ornamented with a broad border, which is usually black ; but in their gala dress it is red, and sometimes dark green, as at Athens. The outer gar- ment is loose, but the under one is girt round the middle by a broad zone ornamented with brass, and sometimes with silver, having two large circular clasps uniting in front. This forms as conspicuous a part of the female Arnaut attire as the Knemides do of that of the men ; and the women are not less vain of a broad and massive gir- dle, than their husbands are of the brightness and richness of their boots ; and no doubt the guvy, or the ^uo-t^, was an ornamental part of female attire in the earliest times, as Homer gives the epithet of KocWi^uvo^ to the females, as he does that of evwripiSes to the men ; and Pindar's epithet of QocQu^uvoi 2 induces me to imagine, that in very early periods, the zones of the Grecian women were not dissimilar to the girdles of the moderns, and they were certainly highly neces- sary in the heroic ages, when Apollo, Hercules, Theseus, and other such intemperate persons, endangered the virtue of every female they met. The girdles of the Albanians are as complete a safeguard against violence as the modern stays of the Sabine women. The Grecian females in early times had two sorts of girdles. The luc-pa. 1 Well-girdled ; Hymn to Apollo, v. 446. * Broad-girdled, COSTUMES. 141 ruv pcto-Tuv*- was to support the breasts; and the far^x vipt- fy xotXict, was probably simitar to that wore by the modern's. Mar- tial supposes a zone of this kind, speaking to a newly-married woman — • : . ''■ - : - ; ; c Longa satis nunc sum, dulci sed pondere venter i -. Si tumeat, flam tunc tibi zona brevis. 2 The head-dress of the women is a white handkerchief, hanging carelessly down the shoulder, and turned round the neck, resem- bling the ancient Lrpoipiov, or KeKputpxXov, as seen on some of the coins of Corinth ; their hair is plaited behind, and divided into three long tails nearly reaching the ground ; the extremities ornamented with red tassels, Turkish piastres, Spanish dollars, and sometimes Vene- tian sequins, and ancient Greek medals ; an incongruous mixture, which when they danced made a tinkling discord with the drums and fifes. Their necklaces and ear-rings are of coral, or coloured glass, with an intermixture of Greek medals, or Turkish and Venetian gold, amongst which I observed some ancient medals of Philip and Alexander. These coins are frequently found in Greece with perforations which are apparently ancient. Those of Alexander were worn as amulets, and supposed to protect the posses- sors from various evils. This singular custom is explained at length by Dr. Clarke. 3 The Philippi were common and current through- out the Roman empire many centuries after the time of Alexander. T. Q. Flaminius sent 14,514 of them to Rome, after his conquest of Macedon. 4 The young girls and unmarried women have the red skull-cap, which is covered, more or less with money, according to the wealth of the person. They sometimes wear their dower upon their head, 1 See Jul. Pollux Onomast, b. 7. c. 16. Seg. 65. 67. 2 B. 14. Epig. 140. 3 Travels in Greece. * Plutarch's Life of Flaminius. 142 COSTUMES. consisting in Turkish paras and piastres, which are perforated and strung round the cap : in the front is sometimes a row of Venetian sequins ; and if the young lady is very rich, some larger pieces of gold coin attract the eyes of her admirers. The Turkish women have a different costume from the Greek, and are covered with an ample peplos, which falls to the feet in fine and picturesque folds. CHAPTER V. Departure for Salona. Ancient ruins called Agia Euphemia. Salona, the ancient Amphissa ; inhabit- ants, produce. Visit to the Voivode. To Krisso, the ancient Krissa. Discordance of authors concerning that town and Kirra. Krissaean plain. TO SALONA, AMPHISSA. On quitting Galaxidi, we were advised to carry provisions with us ; as in case we should stop any time at villages, to examine the antiquities, we should find nothing but bread and cheese. We ac- cordingly provided ourselves with coffee, tea, and sugar, dry raisins and figs, ripe olives, Khaviar, and Kalbaz. When the olive ripens, it grows black, and falls from the tree ; it is then eaten, with bread and salt, without any preparation. It is an excellent food, and a good substitute for meat. In Italy they never ripen ; the climate not being sufficiently hot : they are however smoked, but not comparable to those of Greece, which ripen naturally. The Khaviar is composed of the roe of sturgeons, which are taken in the Caspian and Black seas ; the roe is salted, and put into barrels. It is of a dark-brown colour, is generally eaten with oil and vinegar, and is esteemed a delicacy, though at first its fishy taste is not agreeable : it forms a lucrative branch of com- merce, js sent to most parts of Europe, and eaten in fast-time, by 144 PROVISIONS. Greeks, and Roman Catholics. The botarga, which is made from the roe of the white mullet, is a convenient provision to carry on journeys in Greece ; it is of a hard consistent quality, and a great delicacy. Ludovicus Nonnius 1 derives the word botarga, or botarcha (as he writes it) from ua. rapi^a, (salted eggs). The Kalbaz? which is one of the best Turkish delicacies, is composed of honey, must of wine, and almonds, beat up together into a consistent paste : it is a good substitute for butter, which is not eatable in Turkey, though it is an ingredient in the Pillau, to which it always gives a rank, and nauseous taste. The wine was frequently so resinous and pungent, that as a substitute, we were obliged to take Raki, or Arrack, a strong spirit extracted from the stalks of vines taken from the wine presses. The word Raki however signifies all kinds of spirits. The cheese is made of goat's or sheep's milk, and being extremely salt, is not suited to our palates. The milk of cows is never used in Greece, as it is reckoned unwholesome in that climate; besides which, the Greeks have a pre- judice against making it an object of food. We quitted Galaxidi on the morning of the 25th, with five horses for ourselves and luggage, and a guide, who feeds the horses on the journey- and takes them back. This is the avoiates, or more pro- perly oryuyixTvis, from ayu, to conduct ; the burden which the horses carry is called uywyiov : the road lay through a barren and rocky country, bounded on the north by bare hills, and on the south by the gulph. Having proceeded an hour, we observed some ancient traces, and large blocks of stone; and a little further on, several foundations on a hill, probably the Acropolis of the small city which was in the plain. It is useless to conjecture its ancient name : there is a great vacuum in the history of this country, though bordering ' De Piscium esu. a Or Halbaz, pronounced kalva. RUINS AT AGIA EUPHEMIA. 145 on the classical shores of Phocis, and within view of Parnassos itself. As we proceeded the soil began to present a mixture of barrenness and fertility ; amongst the rocks are scattered small tracts of rich land, which produces abundance of the finest corn. In three hours from Galaxidi, we arrived at the ruins of an an- cient city, which now with a neighbouring village, bears the name of Agia Euphemia. 1 As we approached, the women and children abandoned their labour and rushed into their cottages, which they barricadoed as well as they could. After many entreaties on our part, some of the boldest ventured out ; and when they were re- covered from their alarm, told us they thought we were people be- longing to Aly Pasha ; for so terrible is the friendly passage of a pasha, or his troops through a village, that the poor inhabitants forsake their humble dwellings, to seek shelter amongst the rocks and mountains. The ruins of this city stand in a plain encompassed by mountains; it seems to have had no Acropolis, like Mantinea and Megalopolis. Its circuit is small, apparently not above one mile and a half; the walls are well preserved, and in the style of those at Galaxidi. Equidis- tant square towers extend round the town ; the steps up to many of them remain : none of the gates are entire; that of which the ruins are still visible, is not sufficiently preserved to give an idea of its ancient form. The blocks which compose the walls are ornamented, and cut with parallel perpendicular lines ; a useless labour, which however 1 have seen in many other parts of Greece. This ornament is still used, particularly in Italy, and the lines are sometimes hori- zontal. Within the walls are scarce any remains or traces whatever ; but several heaps of small stones and tiles, are scattered about the spot on which the ancient city stood. 1 It is pronounced Aiathemia. VOL. I. U 146 TOWN OF SALONA, AMPHISSA. It is probable that the private houses in ancient Grecian cities were composed of poor materials, while the magnificence of architec- ture, and the splendour of sculpture were bestowed almost exclusively on the strength of their fortifications, and the elegance of their public edifices. We know from Plutarch 1 that there was a law at Sparta, prohibiting luxury and expense in private buildings. There are no fragments of sculpture or architectural ornaments, and no inscrip- tions amongst the ruins, which might lead to the discovery of its ancient name. Our inquiries for medals were also unsuccessful. On our quitting this place, the road led across a deep glen, with lofty calcareous rocks on each side, of so bright a red colour that they had the appearance of being painted. This ochreous tint is predominant in this part of Greece; particularly in the primitive lime stone rocks of Parnassos, above Delphi. Leaving to the right a village called Kouski, we turned round the point of a hill and came in view of Sal5na, where we arrived in the afternoon, and were hospitably received in the house of Doctor An- drea Cattani, 2 a Cephallenian, to whom Mr. Nicolas Strani had given us a letter. The distance between Galaxldi and Salbna is about fifteen miles, and we were five hours on the road, not including stopping. Sal5na is situated at the northern extremity of the Krissaean plain, at present called Kupvrig tou Kpi/xaioi. See Catacuzene, b. 3. c. 41. p. 486. Paris edit. 1 Nat. Hist. b. 36. c. 25. TOWN OF SALONA, AMPHISSA. 149 it. The Rhiadhiat or Khalwith, as the Turks call the perfect se- clusion, is not uncommon with the derwisches : he who performs this religious penance shuts himself up in a dark cavern; his only sus- tenance being bread and water once in twenty-four hours, with continual prayers. This seclusion sometimes continues for several months. Near the sepulchral chamber are some ancient traces and walls, perhaps the remains of other sepulchres. The neighbouring stream of Katzopenikta comes from the moun- tains behind Sal5na, and after passing through the town, unites in the plain with two other small streams, called Kolobatianos, and Skitza, which enter the gulph at a place called Skliri, three miles beyond the Scala di Salftna. Another stream called Aialiossa, or Agia Liossa, also coming from the mountains of Sal5na, joins the Skitza before it enters the sea; the latter rises near a village called Segritza ; they are in general all dry in summer. Salona is supposed to contain between four and five thousand inhabitants, near half of whom are Turks. Its situation is un- healthy ; being at the extremity of a long valley, and at the foot of high mountains; it suffers severe cold in winter, and oppressive heat in summer. Many of its inhabitants are carried off every year by putrid fevers. It has several mosques, besides one in the fort, which is in ruins ; the Greeks also have many small churches, most of which are in a state of dilapidation. The Voivode has thirty-six Greek villages 1 under his command, by the draining and squeezing of which, he not only is enabled to pay into the treasury of the Porte one hun- dred purses 2 annually, but also to lay by for himself a very consider- able profit. The principal resource of Sal5na is the oil ; the groves are in the plain, and I have not seen in any part of Greece either 1 See the Appendix. - See the relative value of Turkish and English money in the Appendix. 150 PRODUCE OF SALONA. the tree or the fruit of so large a size. A crop is taken every alternate year. SalQna, as well as Athens, produces the xoXvpfiuSei;, w hichare sent to Constantinople, and are the only olives as I was assured which have the honour of being eaten in the seraglio. The jcoXvpfiaSeg of Greece are noticed by Athenaeus : he says that Philemon calls the black olives Stemphylides, and that those which ripen on the trees are named by Didymos, A^v7re7rsi?, la-^aSeg, and Te^ye^oi. 1 The cotton of Salona is remarkably fine. Nitre and gunpowder are also made here, but of a coarse and bad quality. The yellow leather of Salbna is much esteemed, and sought for all over Greece ; it is cured in a copious fountain, called Karmina, which rises under a large plane tree. The water for this spring is supposed to possess a quality superior to that of any other, for preparing the skins to receive the yellow die ; but the red and the black leather of Sal5na are not good. Plane trees are fond of water : he great Platanus at Bostitza is close to a fountain. In most of the towns of Greece the fountains are shaded by them. According to Pausanias, 2 a source rose at the roots of a Platanus at Korone. Doctor Andrea accompanied us to the Voivode. As all Turk- ish apartments are built on the same plan, and the form of re- ception by all voivodes and governors is precisely the same, it may be proper, for the purpose of saving many unnecessary repetitions, to state in this place the observations which occurred to me during this visit. On arriving at the Voivode's residence, we first passed through an antichamber, where there were some Tatars smoking, and some t!»ju7toujct£ij? (Tchiboukchis) or pipe-keepers, preparing pipes and tobacco for their master. The person who presents the pipes is styled T^TToxjy.oyXa.v (the young man of the pipes). 1 Deipnosoph. b. 2. c. 15. b. 4. c. 4. s B. 4. c.34. VISIT TO THE VOIVODE. 151 As we approached the Voivode's apartment, a large and ponderous curtain of leather, which was fixed to the top of the door to exclude the air, was held aside by one of the guards, and we entered into the room. But before I proceed any further, it may not be an unnecessary digression to observe, that this kind of curtain was anciently used in Greece and Italy for the same purpose ; and was called by the Greeks nxpocTreTciirpct, 1 and by the Latins aulceum and velum. The Romans of high rank had servants on purpose to open or hold up these cur- tains when persons entered a room ; these servants were called velarii : 2 they are still used in the large houses of Italy. I am doubtful whether the custom of leaving the slippers at the door of an apartment is of ancient date. The Greeks had shoes which were used only within doors, but never out of the house; these were called /3x«ut«< ; and we know from Terence 3 and Martial, 4 that the ancients took off their shoes (Socci and Soleae) when they were at meal. It was a custom of very high antiquity to be bare- footed when standing upon holy ground. 5 Franks are always ex- cused taking off their shoes or boots, having no under ones, as the Greeks and Turks. It would be as improper in an inhabitant to enter an apartment in Turkey with the outer shoes or slippers on, as it would. be in other countries not to take the hat off on similar occasions ; and it has the same effect upon the Turks to see us take our hats off on entering the house, as it would upon us to see a person take off his shoes. The Voivode received us with the usual compliments, of " khosh gueldin, asafai gueldin," — welcome, very welcome. The rest of the conversation was carried on through the mediation of the Doctor, who acted as interpreter. 1 Or I\ipnreTa(T/j.a. 2 Piguori de Servis and Winckelmann. 3 Heaut. act. 1. sc. 1. v. 72. 4 B. 3. ep. 50. ▼. 3. 9 See Justin Martyr. Apolog. for the Christians. 152 VISIT TO THE VOIVODE. My ferman was given to the Voivode's secretary, who read it aloud, and when they found that I was styled Beyzadch, son of a Bey, they treated me with great civility. This is the usual title given to those who travel in Turkey for their amusement, and not for commercial purposes. The apartment was nearly surrounded by the Divan, composed of large red velvet cushions, placed upon a seat about six inches high, with others for the back. The floor was covered with a handsome carpet, and the wainscot, which was bare wall, was ornamented with some swords and pistols hanging near the Voivode. Several passages from the Courann, and moral sentences in frames, were hung about the room ; such as " There is no help but in God" — " Divine faith is the desire of the wise ;" and others of the same kind. The small upper windows were gothic, and ornamented with painted glass. The ceiling was composed of wood neatly carved ; the chimney was nearly opposite the entrance. The Voivode spoke little, and seemed entirely taken up in counting the beads of his tchespi, or chaplet : this sometimes consists of ninety-nine beads, and the devout Moslem will say a prayer a day for each. We were served with coffee, pipes, and preserves ; sprinkled with rose water, and fu- migated with sweet-scented perfumes. The life of a Turkish gentleman consists almost entirely of smoking tobacco, drinking coffee, and counting his beads. The former is in- dispensably necessary for his happiness. The Turk however is ex- ceedingly clean and even foppish in his smoking apparatus, and never spits : a small tin dish is put on the carpet for the bowl of the pipe to rest on, in order that the tobacco may not fall out. The tubes or tchibouks are generally seven or eight feet long, and are made of cherry or jasmin wood. In most of the gardens in Greece there is a small plantation of jasmin, the stems of which are trained up straight, and sell for high prices. The bowls are made of a fine earth found near Thebes in Boeotia ; they are worthy of the ancient Grecian pot- tery, and are neatly ornamented and enriched with gilding. The mouth pieces are commonly of amber or stone, or a composition re- VISIT TO THE VOIVODE. 153 sembling the former; some of them are splendidly adorned with precious stones. The introduction of tobacco by the Dutch, about the year 1606, caused some trouble at Constantinople, and was violently opposed by the Mouphty ; however Achmet the First, who was sultan at that time, permitted it to be used throughout his empire : it was after- wards prohibited by Amurat the Fourth, but again came gradually into use. The introduction of coffee also met with considerable opposition, according to D'Ohsson. 1 It was discovered by a Derwisch at Mocca, in Arabia, in 1258 ; but not made known at Constantinople till the reign of Suleymann the First, near three centuries after its dis- covery. It seems that the first time Guillatiere 2 ever saw it was at Athens, in 1669 ; and the beverage which is now so universal, and so much the fashion, appears to have been nauseous and disagreeable to the French traveller. He says, " They presented us with a liquor called coffee, which is only hot water Avith the fruit of a certain tree, called by them bun, put into it, and boiled up till it receives a sour taste, and an ugly black tincture, but they reckon it an excellent cordial/' In the course of the same day, we paid a visit to the Voivode's son, when we had an opportunity of observing the bloated pride of the 3 r oung Turk, and the humble servility of the Greek. The boy, who Avas apparently about fifteen, was smoking his diamond-studded pipe, and idling on a soft and richly-embroidered velvet sofa, while his tutor, a Greek, was sitting at his feet on the floor. The respect which pupils pay their tutors in other countries, is quite reversed in Turkey. The Doctor told me that the young gentleman never smoked in pre- sence of his father, but put on a demure and respectful countenance ; 1 Empire Othoman, tom. 4. p. 76. 2 Athens, Ancient and Modern, p. 94. VOL. I. X 154 THE LOCRI OZOLJE. but in private he smoked and drank coffee all day, and had even begun to have his wives. In the Appendix will be found the names of the principal villages under the jurisdiction of the Voivode of Salona. The towns and subdivisions however of this territory have not yet been ascertained with accuracy by travellers. In the time of the Peloponnesian war, Ozolaia Locris had thirteen republics independent of one another ; each of these had no doubt its walled town, its boundary mountains, and its plain. The whole of that country is singularly divided into hill and dale, and watered with small streams, and winter torrents. The Locrians were called Hesperii, from their westerly situation compared with the rest of Greece ; and Strabo 1 says, that their pub- lic seal was the evening star. I procured several of the Locrian coins, on which that star is represented. TO KRISSO. AVe quitted Saldna on the 24th, and soon after entering the plain crossed a bridge over the dry-bed of the Skitza, which is generally streamless, except after rains or the melting of the snows. We soon after crossed the Kolobatianos, which flows copiously in winter, and which was perhaps the boundary between the Locrians and the Phoceans. The Krissaean plain, which is richly cultivated with corn, cotton, millet, Indian corn, and vines, and interspersed with olives, is bounded on each side by barren hills. Towards the end of the plain, to the left, a fine rocky promontory called Meli, pro- B.9. cr]fioaia crypayis. THE PLAIN OF KRISSA. 155 jects from the mountains, and narrows the vale. Our guides pointed out a cavern, in the steepest part of the rock, in which they said there was a man, who having entered it with the intention of stealing honey, was converted into stone, where he still remains. The rock is designated by the name of MsA< (honey). I conceived that there might be some ancient statue remaining in that spot, and was anxious to ascend to the cave ; but as it was in the steepest part of the rock, it would have been impossible to reach it ; and they told me that no one had ever seen the statue, and that the story was merely traditional. After crossing the road which leads to the Scala, 1 or port of Salbna, and ascending the hill (part of Parnassos) with a modern paved way, we arrived at Krisso in two hours, the distance from SalSna being about six miles. The Krissaean plain 2 extends from Sal5na to the foot of Parnassos, below Kastri, that is about twelve miles : it then dwindles into a narrow glen, which, with the Pleistos, separates Parnassos from Kirphis. Its general breadth appears to be from a mile and a half to two miles ; but near Krisso it widens considerably, extending to the gulph. It is singular that, although Spon went from Sal5na to Kastri, he mentions nothing about Krissa. We had a letter, from Mr. Nicolas Strani, to the Bishop of Sal5na, who resides here ; we passed the night in his house ; and nothing could be more miserable ! He lives with all the simplicity of the primi- tive Christians ; there was nothing to eat, except rice and bad cheese; the wine was execrable, and so impregnated with rosin, that it almost took the skin from our lips ! An opportunity however was now offered us of seeing the interior of a Greek house, and of observing 1 This term is generally given to trading ports in Greece. The Turkish word Iskeli has the same signification. 1 iEschines, Plutarch, and others, call it the plain of Kirra ; I have preferred following Homer and Strabo. x 2 156 ANCIENT AND MODERN CUSTOMS. some of the customs of the country, which are curious and interest- ing. Before sitting down to dinner, as well as afterwards, we had to perform the ceremony of the %eipoviirrpw, or washing of the hands : a tin bason, which the Turks name levenn, is brought round to all the company, the servant holding it on his left arm, while with the other hand, he pours water from a tin vessel, called by the Turks ibrik, on the hands of the washer, having a towel thrown over his shoulder, to dry them with. The towel is called MavXtXii, from the ancient word paySccXiK. This ceremony is performed not only before and after meals, but is practised by Greeks and Turks before com- mencing their orations, as it was by the ancients before they sacrificed to the gods, 1 and on the arrival of a stranger at a house. The bason was called XeGrjg, and not psTccvrsrTpov, as some have sup- posed, the latter being the draught taken after dinner, when the niptron, or washing, was finished. Xtpvifcx 2 $' a.[t(pmo\og trpoxou S7re%£U£ (pepovtrct KciXy, xpvirtufi, vsrep ocpyupeoio Ae£>;t0?, Nii}/ayixvii •arovr l pov kutu8sv Trveupa. oict tuv yEvvrjTtxuv eoey^ero ptopiuv." 5 It is singular that the transition of the sacred breath 6 of Apollo, should have caused such wonderful effects throughout all Greece : but it is not surprising, that the mephitic vapours should sometimes have been fatal 7 to the Pythia ; particularly when we consider that Apollo " se visceribus 8 mergit." Every one knows the effect of the air in the grotta del Cane, near Naples. The seat upon which the Pythia sat when proclaiming the oracles, was called oXptos, 9 the Cor- tina 10 of the Latins ; for which reason, the epithet of Cortinipotens was given to Apollo. 11 I will now briefly mention some reflections, which suggested them- selves upon the spot, as I explored the relative situations of the ob- jects which are most remarkable in the country round Delphi and Parnassos. I B. 10. c. 37. 2 De sexto Cons. Hon. Aug. Paneg. v. 29. * Rom. Hist. b. 63. * B. 16. c. 26. 5 The Scholiast of Aristophanes. 6 ifpov wtvfia. Dion Cassius, b. 63. * Plutarch de defectu Orac. 8 Lucan. Pharsal. b. 5. 9 Jul. Pollux, b. 10. c. 23. 10 Virgil ^En. 3. v. 92. II Adrian Turnebus, adversar. b. 29. c. 20. 2 A 2 180 APOLLO AND PYTHO. The story of Apollo and Pytho is unquestionably a poetical alle- gory ; and it is therefore necessary to reduce it to plain prose, in order to invest it with a semblance of reality. The serpent probably represented the river, which remained after the flood of Ogyges and Deucalion had overflowed the plains, surrounding and insulating Parnassos, and the highest mountains, with its serpentine involutions. Strabo 1 says, the Cephissos passes through Phocis like a serpent (fyoMovTostfus). The Pleistos probably took its name from the original superfluity of its waters. Apollo with his darts, or the sun with its rays, reduced this enormous monster to the size of a common river. The old Egyptian story of Horus and Ob seems to have given rise to that of Apollo and Pytho; their resemblance is striking. The word Horus, or Hores in Hebrew, signifies the destroyer, as does the Greek word a.-uro\\uuv, or Apollo. Ob signifies the dragon, or snake, or Pytho, or the inundation of the Nile, which has been the prolific origin of the most celebrated Egyptian and Grecian stories. Herodotus 2 clearly tells us, that Apollo is the same as Oros ; and it must be recollected that Ogyges himself is supposed to have been an Egyptian. It was therefore natural, that the mythology of that country should be re- vived and adopted in Greece, upon an event which so nearly resem- bled what had been experienced in the regions of the Nile. Towards the western end of Kastri, near the stadium, is a hill, where some ancient foundations may be discerned, with the pave- ments of three roads, which form a junction at this spot. The sum- mit of the hill is flat, but not of large dimensions, and as it is higher than the fount Kassotis, it could not have been occupied by the temple of Apollo. Below the hill, towards the south, is the small church of St. Elias, composed of ancient fragments, and standing upon a terrace, sup- ported by a fine wall of regular masonry, with projecting buttresses, B. 9. p. 424. 2 B.2. c. 144. STADIUM. ]81 which formed the peribolos of a temple. Spon thinks that this is the site of the temple of Apollo : it may have been part of the inclosure ; but I conceive that the body of the temple, the pavruov, where the oracles were given, was higher up, and probably within the present village. Strabo 1 particularly tells us it was kutu xogutpyv. Near St. Elias are two sepulchral chambers cut in the rock, one of which contains a sarcophagus, with its cover still remaining entire : some other sepulchres, of the same kind, are seen in different parts of the rock. The stadium is a little above St. Elias. The son of the papas had accompanied me as far as this place with- out making any remarks ; but on arriving at the stadium, to my great surprise, he knew what it was, and said, sSu uvea ro $tx,ov pus ttsvtccQxov, Here is our stadium ! The word Pentathlon, the quinquertium of the Romans, was introduced into Greece as soon as the games reached the number 2 indicated by that word. The stadium is situated under the rocks of Parnassos, and the length and breadth includes as much flat space in both directions, as the nature of the ground can afford ; the two extremities, which are east and west, being terminated by rocks, and the northern side by the rising of the mountain, the south by the quick slope ; on this side are the ruins of the ancient wall which supported the stadium; it is regularly constructed, with large blocks, some of which are thirteen feet in length. The an- cient and the modern road pass at the foot of the wall. Pausanias 3 says that Herodes Atticus ornamented the stadium with Pentelic marble : the ruins however are entirely of stone, without the smallest fragment of marble. The rocks which are at the two extremities are cut into seats, which remain very per- fect, and which were probably for the agonothetai, or presidents of the games. The seats of the populace were on the sides ; some of 1 B. 9. p. 418. ' 2 Simonides. Antholog. b. 1. c. 1. Epig. 8. 3 B. 10. c. 32. Philostratos, in his Life of Herod. Attic, merely says, avcdrjxt Se «u rif 7i/0ij) to Ili/Ooi Irafiov. 182 RUINS OF DELPHI. them remain ; they are similar to those of the theatre of the sacred forest near Epidauros. Between the village and the Kastalian spring are the remains of a circular edifice of moderate dimensions : it has probably been a seat, or resting-place ; of which there are other examples near Grecian temples : there is one of a similar kind at Kalauria, attached to the temple of Neptune ; and another at the entrance of the town of Pompeii, 1 near Naples ; both retain- ing the seats, which are formed by a projection from the wall, in the hollow of the circle : that of Delphi is probably of the same kind, but it is considerably buried : on one side of the blocks is the following inscription : — EniAPIITArOPAAPXONTOSENAEAOOIS AITilAXlNnOAIMAPXOYAAEHANAPO. This building was erected, Aristagoras being archon of Delphi, and Alexander Polemarch of iEtolia. The inscription being upon different stones, it appears that some must have fallen from their places since the publication of Van Dale, 2 who gives it in a more perfect state ; but he has misrepre- sented the form of the sigma. EniAPICTArOPAAPXONTOC ENAEAOOIC IIYAAIAC THCIHC IEPOMNHMONOYNTX1N AITOAX1N nOAEMAPXOTAAESAMENOT AAMONOC The remains of the town wall are a little to the east of the 1 See the beautiful work on the ruins of Pompeii by Sir W. Gell and J. P. Gandy, Esq. * Dissertat. 6. RUINS OF DELPHI. 183 Kastalian spring, where the eastern gate must have formerly stood, joining the foot of the precipice Hyempeia. No part of the wall is left but the interior mass, which consists of an exceeding hard com- position of small stones and mortar. This was probably coated with large blocks, and is precisely of the same style as the wall at the western entrance of the town, which has already been described. The ancient and the modern road pass in this place ; it was the ieox o$os, or sacred way, by which the Athenians and Boeotians made their approach with rich and pompous offerings to the Del- phian god. When Pausanias came from Daulis, he entered Delphi by this eastern gate ; and he mentions four temples, and a gymnasium, in the vicinity. Several ruins and fragments may be seen below the road, and the convent of the Kalogeroi has probably been erected on the site of one of the temples ; some fine blocks of marble are scattered about with fragments of inscriptions, a marble triglyph, and other Doric remains. Here are also two fine masses of wall, built at different periods, as a support to the terraces on which the temple stood. The most an- cient of these is in the second style ; the polygons are beautifully united ; the other wall is nearly regular. Some ancient olive-trees growing near the convent, and over- topped by the memorable Phsedriades, form a most beautiful and singular picture. Within the convent are three plain metopae of white marble, some altars, and sepulchral inscriptions. The Kalogeroi, who are of the order of St. Basilius, subsist by alms, and by the culture of their land. The hospitality which they exercise towards travellers is made up of bread and cheese, of olives and wine, with the use of an unfurnished apartment. These re- marks are analogous to the hospitable orders of Catholic countries ; except to the capuchins, who are the receivers, but not the dispen- sers, of hospitality. 184 ROCKS DETACHED FROM PARNASSOS. As my curiosity prompted me to examine a cave on Mount Kir- phis, which is visible from Kastri, 1 commenced my descent from the Kastalian spring towards the Pleistos, by the glen which conveys the superfluous water of the fount to that river. Not far below the monastery are several large masses of rock, which have been evi- dently detached from Parnassos, and are no doubt the same which fell upon the army of Xerxes, according to the testimony of Hero- dotus 1 and Diodorus. 2 The former mentions that they were seen in his time in the ground which was sacred to Minerva Pronaia. Pausanias 3 and Justin 4 relate that they fell when Brennus was before Delphi, and destroyed great part of his army. The son of the papas pointed out one of the largest of these masses, and said, it was the chair of Apollo ; rou A7ro\Xuvo<; y KotQefyoi. It was interesting to hear an unlettered peasant pronounce the name of the Delphic deity. Pausanias 5 mentions a rock at Delphi, on which Herophile used to sit when she gave out her oracles. I continued descending on the eastern side of the little glen ; and, about one-third of the way down, found a long and interesting in- scription. 6 I saw no regular building in my walk, but only a few traces, and several blocks of stone. At the bottom of the glen, the water of the Kastalian spring forms a small cascade, and a few paces further, enters the Pleistos ; near this is a mass of wall, com- posed of small stones and mortar, the remains of a bridge which was built over the river ; it does not appear to be of very ancient date. I searched in vain for the Hippodrome: it was probably only a space railed in, without any permanent building : ten chariots started sometimes at the same moment, in these contests. 7 Sopho- cles 8 calls the plain of Krissa vtx.vu.yiuv Kpiaveuov mvMuv Uitiov, the ship- wreck of horsemen, alluding to the Hippodrome. 1 B. 8. c. 39- ! B. 11. c. 14. »B. 10.C.S3. ♦ B.24. c. 8. 5 B. 10. c. 12. 6 See the Appendix. 7 Sophoc. Elect, v. 703. 8 Elect, v. 733. RIVER PLEISTOS. 185 The valley, which is here narrow, widens towards Krissa ; the soil is rich, and well cultivated with vines, olives, and corn. Several ditches have been cut, to draw off the waters of the Pleistos, for the purpose of irrigating the olive plantations ; and some of the dykes, being out of repair, the water has formed marshy ground. Though the river is small, it sometimes overflows after heavy rains, or the melting of the snow on Parnassos ; when it merits the name, for which it was perhaps indebted to that circumstance. Pliny 1 says the Cephissos flows through Delphi ; one amongst many proofs that little dependence is to be placed upon his assertions when he speaks of Greece. The boy who had attended me as far as this place, being bare- footed, and having bruised his feet in climbing about the rocks, be- came quite alarmed when he saw me attempt to cross the river ; he began to cry ; and I heard him say, OXot a tp^aynoi rpeXXot eimi, aXXu avrog TpeXXorocTog, eyu nirxyca ei$ to o-ttvjti pov, " All Franks are mad ; but this man is quite mad ; I will return home I" With this he dis- appeared amongst the olive-groves, and I saw no more of him. About three quarters of a mile east of the Kastalian spring, and below the road, a stream gushes out of the side of Parnassos, and turning some small mills in its rapid descent, falls into the Pleistos, the volume of which it considerably augments. I was a long time in discovering a place where I could ford the rapid current ; but I was unwilling to return without effecting my purpose. At length I commenced the experiment ; and when in the middle of the stream, found the water, about four feet deep, flowing with impetuous velo- city, and full of large stones. I was hurried off my feet, and much bruised by falling upon a rock ; but as the river was narrow, I for- tunately reached the opposite bank, though in much pain, and per- fectly wet. 1 Nat. Hist. b. 4. c. 3. VOL. I. 2 B 186 MOUNT KIRPHIS, CAVE OF SYBARIS. Having rested some time, and almost dried myself in the sun, which, although in the month of March, was very powerful, I pro- ceeded amongst the olive-groves, towards Mount Kirphis ; but I was soon so bewildered by the marshes and ditches of the Pleistos, that I should probably have been obliged to return, had not some voices excited my observation. I perceived several Greeks working in the fields ; and their astonishment at seeing a Frank alone in such a place, and covered with mud and dirt, could not be readily de- scribed. They were however civil, and assured me, that there were no ruins whatever in the plain. I begged one of them to accom- pany me to the cave on Kirphis, to which he consented upon the payment of twenty paras. We proceeded straight up the rough and difficult side of the mountain, which was covered with rocks and bushes, and at length reached the cave, which is called n?? IepoixraX^ to fcwjWaww, the Cave of Jerusalem. It is the work of nature ; its entrance is nearly square, but smaller than it appears from Delphi ; nor does it merit the epi- thet v&egptyeQes, which was given to it by Antoninus Liberalis. It does not penetrate above forty feet into the rock, and contains only a few fragments of loose wall, which constitute a Greek rustic chapel. It is necessary to inform future travellers that it is by no means worth seeing ; and I regretted that I had to so little purpose em- ployed so much labour, and wasted so much time. No author with whose works I am acquainted notices this care, except Antoninus Liberalis; 1 and as his fable relating to it is little known, I give it at some length. — He says, that " at the foot of Parnassos, towards the south, is Mount Kirphis ; in which is a spacious cavern, once the abode of a monster of enormous size, by some named Lamia, and by others Sybaris. Every day the monster devoured men and flocks, and the Delphians, who were thinking ! Metamorph. c. 8. MOUNT KIRPHIS, CAVE OF SYBARIS. 187 of quitting their city, consulted the oracle concerning the place in which they should settle. The god ordered them to expose to the monster a son of one of their citizens ; the lot fell to the only son of Diomes and Meganira, named Alcyoneus, remarkable for the beauty of his person and the excellence of his mind. The priests crowned him, and led him to the cave of Sybaris; but fortu- nately, Eurybates, son of Euphemos, met Alcyoneus on his way thither. Being struck at his elegant appearance, and informed of his intended fate, he immediately took the crown from the head of Alcyoneus, and putting it on his own, desired to be conducted to the cave, where having arrived, he rushed in, and dragging Sybaris from his den, hurled him from the rocks as far as the Krissaean plain, where he was dashed to pieces. From the rock where he fell issued a foun- tain called by the inhabitants Sybaris, and from this the Locri gave the name of Sybaris to the town which they erected in Italy." Mount Kirphis probably formed the chief part of the territory of the Akragallidai, or Kraugallidai, who are mentioned by iEschines. 1 Its principal town had the same name as the mountain, 2 and it seems held out six years after Kirra. Pliny 3 mentions the town called Gre- phis, perhaps the same as Kirphis. Strabo says, that Mount Kir- phis, which is opposite Delphi to the south, is a rough rock with a glen before it, through which flows the Pleistos. The modem name of this mountain is Zimeno. I returned to Delphi by the western side of the Kastalian glen, and saw several very ancient masses of walls, some of which were composed of polygon blocks. The whole slope of the hill up to the rocks of Parnassos, is formed into terraces, which were supported by these walls. The situation of the streets and of the houses may be discerned by the alternation of narrow and broad terraces. Some transverse streets seem to have intersected the others nearly at right 1 Orat. against Ktesiphon. » Strabo, b. 9. p. 416. 3 Nat. Hist. b. 4. c. 7. 2 B 2 188 RUINS OF DELPHI. angles; and the town, when entire, must have exhibited the im- posing spectacle of an immense theatre. Homer 1 calls it KoiXy — faa-tru ; Pindar, 2 x.oi\osrs$o» voctto? ; and Strabo, 3 Qixt^ouIk;. Justin 4 says " in for- mam theatri recessit." I was surprised to find very few fragments of marble amongst the ruins of Delphi. The town was small, 5 but it was a concentration of great opulence and splendour. What can have become of the materials which adorned its public edifices ? Several curiosities are no doubt buried below the village ; though the soil in general is so thin and so rocky, that great masses cannot be concealed beneath the superficies. Numerous fragments of terra cotta vases are found amongst the ruins, which preserve in all their original freshness, their imperish- able red and black polish. I found none ornamented. I copied many inscriptions, some of which have lately been accurately published by Doctor Clarke ; 6 those which have escaped the notice of travellers, will be found in the Appendix. A little below the village, I found a small fragment of a marble statue, which had attracted my notice in my first tour, and which I mention in this place, from a desire of recording the good faith of a Greek and of a Turk, by whose means I sent it to Patra. The Agha of Castri took charge of it, refusing any payment for his trouble ; he promised to send it to Doctor Cattani, of Salftna, to whom I wrote, begging him to forward it to Patra, where I found it more than a year afterwards. I could mention several other circumstances which shew that much dependence may be placed upon the promises and the probity of the inhabitants of this country. The echo at this place is very remarkable, and is probably caused by the opposing rocks of Parnassos and Kirphis, and the consequent reverberation. The barking of the dogs when I entered the village 1 Hymn to Apollo, v. 282. * Pyth. Od. 5. v. 50. 3 B. 9. p. 418. * Hist. b. 24. c. 6. s Strabo gives it a circuit of sixty stadia. 6 Travels in Greece, v. 4. MOUNT PARNASSOS. 189 made me first notice the effect; but this was particularly grand when some small canons were fired on account of a feast day, at the village of Arakbba, five or six miles distant to the north-east. The echo was repeated several times, increasing as it reached the rocks of Delphi, like the roar of approaching thunder. Justin, 1 in speaking of the echo of this place, says, " Hominum clamor, et si quando accedit tubarum sonus, personantibus, et respondentibus inter se rupibus, multiplex audiri, et amplior quam editur resonare solet." I was very desirous of seeing the Korycian cave, which is high up the mountain, and about two hours from Kastri. We were on the point of setting off to visit it on the 4th of March, when a heavy fall of snow, which covered Parnassos, Kirphis, and the intermediate plain, prevented our attempting it. Ayxnetpys VKposvti pou KvpouviTO impy? The snow remains during the whole year in some of the hollows of Parnassos, for which reason it is called vttpoeig by Homer, 3 and viie, &pa.Kai>a, and 0(j>i S . a v. S99. et seq. VOL. 1. 2 C CHAPTER VII. From Kastri to Distomo— sepulchres near the Kastalian spring — sacred way — sepulchral monument. Village of Arakoba. Remains of an ancient city. The Triodos and tomb of Laios. Distomo, anciently Ambrysos. To Daulis — ruins of the city. Mount Parnassos. To Agios-Blasios, anciently Pano- peus — ruins of the city. To Libadea. Description ofauArchon's house. Locusts. Oracular cavern of Trophonios. To Kapourna, anciently Chaeroneia — ruins of the city. TO DISTOMO, AMBRYSOS. We quitted Delphi on the 5th of March, with five horses, three of which we hired from the Agha, and two from the Papas. One of the sons of the Papas attended us on foot, to take care of his father's horses, and to return with them after we had arrived at Libadea. We passed near the Kastalian spring. Kadmos here found the heifer which, in obedience to the oracle, he followed through Phocis, to the land of the Phlegyai, where it reposed on that spot on which Kadmeia was accordingly founded, in conformity to the direction of Apollo. 1 Shortly after we had passed the Kastalian spring, and the monas- tery of Kalogeroi, we came to some sepulchres, cut in the rock on the left hand side of the road ; they are of the Spelaia or Kruptai kind, similar to those on the opposite side of Delphi already men- tioned. The sarcophagi which are contained in some of them are still covered ; and no doubt contain vases of great antiquity and interest. I shall ever repent the not having opened them, and I strongly recommend it to future travellers. One of the sepulchres has been very magnificent. 1 Ovid. Metam. b. 3. v. 1, &c. Statius Theb. b. 7. ANCIENT SEPULCHRES. I95 The rock, which is close to the road, is flattened, and cut in the form of a folding door, similar to the sepulchres of many places in Asia Minor, particularly Telmessos, in Caria. Doors of a similar kind are frequently represented on the sarcophagi of Greece and Italy. There is a large perpendicular fissure in the rock, which was pro- bably occasioned by an earthquake. The Kastriotes have a tradi- tion that, at the birth of Christ, a priest of Apollo, who was sacrificing at this place, suddenly stopped the sacrificial ceremo- nies, and declared to the surrounding multitude that the son of a god was at that moment born, whose power would equal that of Apollo ; but that the Delphian god would ultimately triumph over the new-born divinity. The words were scarcely finished, when the rock was rent in two by a clap of thunder, and the priest con- sumed to ashes by a flash of lightning. " The oracle concerning the birth of our Saviour Christ, which was delivered, in heroic verse, to Augustus, is mentioned by Eusebius, Zonaras, and others." 1 We proceeded on the sacred way ; and, about a mile from Kastri, came to the ruins of a small square edifice, strongly built of large stones, the masonry nearly regular; a few paces from it are the re- mains of a large stone sarcophagus, with the cover lying on the ground. This must have been the sepulchre of some distinguished person ; and it is surprising that it is unnoticed by Pausanias, as its appearance indicates much higher antiquity than the time of that author. The entrance into the building is by a door diminishing almost imperceptibly towards the top ; the interior is a mass of ruins. We proceeded by rough and narrow ways, formed in the rocky side of Parnassos, which rises, in abrupt projections, and shattered masses on the left ; to the right, the eye overlooks the deep hollow of the Pleistos, which is cultivated with corn and vines, reaching far 1 Potter's Antiq. 2 C 2 igQ TO AMBRYSOS. up the hills. In two hours we passed by a fountain, and arrived at the village of Arakftba, inhabited by Greeks, and situated on the sloping side of Parnassos. Here is a cavern, with a small church in the interior, and a mag- nificent evergreen oak near its mouth. This place does not contain the smallest traces of antiquity, and the few bits of marble which were observed by Spon, by no means furnish satisfactory evidence that it was once a city ; much less that it was the site of Ambrysos, which is ten or twelve miles distant. From Arakoba, the view extends over the flat summit of Kirphis to the Corinthian Gulph, and the mountains of Achaia, over- topped by those of Arcadia, which at this season are covered with snow. A short way from Arak5ba, we passed by a fountain called Ko- koura, and in an hour and a half arrived at the ruins of an ancient city, situated on a hill, with a stream at its base; the place is called Zimeno, or Palaia-Arakoba. The walls of the Acropolis are in some places well preserved, and are of the fourth style of masonry ; but the ruins are so overgrown with shrubs and bushes, particularly the impenetrable lentiscus, that many things may be concealed which might lead to the discovery of its pristine name, and remove various difficulties and contradictions, which occur in ancient, as well as in modern authors who have written upon Phocis. Strabo mentions no place between Delphi and Daulis ; and it is rather an unfortunate combination, that whenever there is an omis- sion, or an obscurity, in that author respecting any place, there is generally the same in Pausanias ; and Spon, "Wheler, and Chand- ler, have been too complaisant to differ from ancient authors, or even to rectify their mistakes, or supply their omissions! Pausa- nias, 1 in his way from Daulis to Delphi, notices only the Phocicon, and 1 B. 10. c. 5. RUINS OF A CITY, TOMB OF LAIOS. jgy the tomb of Laios, although he must have passed close to this place, and could not avoid seeing it : it was perhaps ruined by the Persians, or in the religious wars of Phocis, and therefore was not mentioned either by Strabo or Pausanias ; but Spon must have passed through the midst of the ruins ! This is not the only instance of that author's extraordinary negligence. Herodotus 1 mentions the town of Aiolida, or of the Aiolians, between Panopeus and Delphi ; and although it is not noticed by any other author, it may be the place in question : he says the Per- sians, in their way to Delphi, burned Panopeus, Daulis, and Aio- lida, having Parnassos on their right. If then it is not the Aiolida of Herodotus, it may be Cyparissos, which Stephanus places on Parnassos, near Delphi; although Pausanias 2 will have it that Anti- cyra is Cyparissos ; Strabo 3 however clearly distinguishes them. It may be one of the six " ignobilia castella" 4 of Phocis, which were taken by the Consul T. Quinctius Flamininus, and of which Livy has not preserved the names. Not far from this place we arrived at a spot where three hills and three roads meet; one leading to Delphi, the other to Ambry sos, and the third to Daulis. This spot is called Derbeni ; but more gene- rally Sth/jj, the ancient word for this kind of pass, corresponding, according to Livy, to the fauces of the Latins. 5 Some large blocks of stone indicate perhaps the tomb of Laios : it is the rpug xetev8oi of Sophocles : 6 XI Tpttg ksXevQoi, Kcti XEXpvpiewy; vaUey, Apvptog re, xou arnvuTTog ev rpnrXxig oootg. The same author 7 calls the place Schiste and Tp<7rXa< ApufciToi, the three carriage roads. 1 B. 8. C. 35. rtjv ttoXiv aioXtSiwv. * B. 10. c. 36. 3 B. 9. 4 Livy, b. 32. c. IS. 5 B. 32. c. 5. 6 CEdip. Tyran. v. 1411. 'Ibid. v. 735. 752. 198 TR10DOS AND TOMB OF LAIOS. It is also named Schiste by Euripides. 1 (pcoxi; fjt.iv i\ yn K\vj£eTai, TxHTTri 00005 eg txvto AeXcpuv ymtto AuvXixg ayet. Apollodorus 2 calls it Etei/i? o&j?, which is also its modern name. Pausanias 3 calls it oloqv\ o-^o-nj, and rptoSog, and says that the tomb of Laios was composed of select stones, Xidoi XoyaSeg. We here turned towards the south, and having crossed a stream entered a rich plain, cultivated with corn and extensive vineyards, and terminated by two ranges of hills. After a passage of two hours through this fertile tract, we arrived at the village of Distdmo, Avhich is the southern extremity of the plain. This place is probably little visited by strangers, as the inhabi- tants flocked round us, and almost exhausted our patience by their importunate curiosity. We inquired for the Protogeros, who pro- cured us a lodging and provisions. In most Turkish towns and vil- lages there is a Protogeros, whose duty it is to provide strangers with lodging and food. It would indeed be well if this office were introduced into the Roman and Neapolitan territories, where a stranger, unprovided with letters of recommendation, is in danger of perishing, if he is out of the high road, where no inns are to be found. The inhabitants are Greeks and Arnauts : the village contains one hundred and fifty houses, and is in the diocese of the Bishop of Talando, and under the command of the Voivode of Libadca. Most of the houses are built with the fragments of large blocks of stone of a dark hue, and extracted from the ruins of an ancient city on which the village stands. The Acropolis occupied a round hill a few hundred feet to the north of the village ; we may still discern the foundations of the 1 Phceniss. v. 38. 2 B 3. c. 5. 3 B. 10. c. 5. RUINS OF AMBRYSOS. igg wall, and the church of St. Elias probably stands upon the site of a temple, as it is almost entirely composed of ancient blocks of stone, with several architectural fragments of marble, and some mutilated inscriptions. The town itself was in the plain, and the few visible remains of the ancient walls are of regular masonry. A copious fountain rises in the village, and forming a small stream, enters a marsh of moderate dimensions a short way to the south. Some broken inscriptions are found amongst the ruins, but so much destroyed as to furnish little information ; nor do any of them contain the name of the town. Chandler has published one which he saw at this place, which proves it to be the ancient Ambrysos. 1 Near the fountain is a large slab of stone which has been covered with a long inscription, but the middle has been barbarously hol- lowed out in order to form a watering trough for cattle ; the edges are still preserved, and the name of the emperor Trajan is dis- tinguished. Pausanias 2 says that theThebans, during their war against Philip of Macedon, fortified this city with double walls, which were con- structed of a hard black stone. He compares them, for their strength, to those of Byzantium, Rhodes, and Messene ; 3 and yet he makes them of such moderate dimensions, that there is probably some error in the text ; for most of the walled cities which I have seen in Greece, have a greater height and thickness than what he has ascribed to the walls of this city. The same author asserts that Ambrysos is situated at the foot of Parnassos, which is not exactly true ; as there is a distance of at least six miles between them. He also says that it is sixty stadia from Stiris, which corresponds to two hours, the computed distance 1 It is written PifxftpoauoQ in the inscription. Polybius and Strabo write it with one s. Pausanias writes it indifferently, with the single or the double s. s B. 10. c.36. s B. 4. c. 31. 200 RUINS OF AMBRYSOS. between Disttimo and the convent of St. Luke of Stiris, situated upon the ruins of that city. He affirms that the road from Ambrys- sos to Anticyra descends for the distance of two stadia ; but that the rest of the way is a level space. From DistOmo to the port of Aspro-Speti is two hours, and the road mounts gently for about a quarter of a mile ; the remainder is flat. There are a few ruins at Aspro-Speti, probably those of Anti- cyra, 1 situated on a promontory, or peninsula, which Pliny 2 and Aulus Gellius 3 erroneously call an island. Pausanias says that Neptune had a temple at this place, built with select stones, and white within : the modern name of Aspro-Speti (the white house), may have something traditional in it, allusive to the temple of Neptune. The negligence of Spon is surprising ; in speaking of Distomo, he merely says " Nous vinmes a un lieu appelle Dist5mo," without telling us whether it was a village or a town ; but leaving the reader to form his own conjectures. He also passed the Triodos, or Trivium, without noticing it. TO DAULIS. On the 9th of March we quitted Distftmo, and retraced our steps as far as the tomb of Laios ; where we took the third road, turning to the right, and proceeding towards the east. 1 AvriKvpa — Pausan. Strabo writes indifferently Acncfpa and Arru-iopa. 5 Nat. Hist. b. 25. c. 5. 3 13. J 7. c 15. FROM DISTOMO TO DAULIA. 201 We travelled through a narrow barren glen, bounded on each side by rocky hills, on which was a considerable quantity of the shrub pirnari, prinari, or pirtws, bearing a small acorn ; its modern name is derived from irqm^ by the transposition of the f. The acorn is called 7rptvoKox.Ko$ ; it is the quercus corcifera, the sr^vof of Dioscorides, or as Wheler will have it, the ilex cocciglandifera, which is the xoxxog (2o(pMo; of Dioscorides ; Pausanias calls it xokx.cs, and observes that it abounds in the vicinity of Ambrysos. The coccus berry sells high, as it is used in dying scarlet. Plutarch says, that according to Simonides, the sail which Theseus was to put on his ship, on his re- turn from Crete, was not white, but purple, dyed from the tree irptvoq. The oak-apple also forms a branch of commerce in Greece, and is used in dying black. After having traversed the gloomy extent of this desolate glen, we entered a vale cultivated with corn and vines, where we enjoyed a distant view of the lake and plain of Kopais, and the field of Chae- roneia. At the foot of Parnassos are the ruins of some large edifice, con- sisting of blocks of stone which are scattered in heaps, and are half covered with the pirnos and lentiscus. These are probably the re- mains of the Phocicon, which Pausanias, in his way from Daulis to Delphi, had on his left hand ; the ancient road was accordingly on the other side of the vale, nearer the foot of Parnassos. This large edifice was ornamented with columns and statues, and was the place to which all the Phocian cities sent their deputies. Some way further on, the road passes near a large tumulus, flat at the top, with some fragments of tiles and pottery about it, and twelve small ever-green oaks on its summit. Pausanias 1 mentions the 1 Hpuov, b. 10. c. 4. vol. i. 2d '202 VILLAGE OF DAULIA. heroic monument of Xanthippos, in a district 1 of the Dauliad called Tronis ; and this may be the monument in question. Twenty minutes beyond this place we crossed the small river called Alephantmo, which turns a corn mill, and arrived at Daulis in the evening. The laborious Arnauts form the inhabitants of this village, which though it contains only sixty cottages, possesses no less than eighteen churches ! The same disproportionate number of churches is seen throughout most parts of Greece, where the Turk is either too weak or too liberal to prevent it. These consecrated edifices are however in general composed only of four loose walls, which are formed of ancient fragments, and without a roof. The altar is frequently nothing more than a slab of marble Avith an inscription underneath, supported by the block of an ancient column, or the pedestal of a statue. The churches at Daulis are so diminutive, that all except four escaped my notice ; one of them is in the Acropolis. The Greek priests, as an expiation for great misdeeds, sometimes impose upon their penitents the construction of a church : and if we may be permitted to draw general conclusions from this well known fact, we must infer, that the proportion of sinners in Greece is very great. The doors, even of the better kind of churches, are commonly so narrow, as to admit only one person at a time ; and this is done in order to prevent the Turks from converting them into stables, by turning in their horses, which they frequently do, when the door is sufficiently capacious. On the 10th of March the Daulians had a feast, in honour of some saint : a Protopapas came from Distftmo, and preached in the ruined chapel, which is in the Acropolis. All the villagers were assembled in their gala dresses, and passed the day in singing, dancing, and eating boiled pulse, mixed with dried currants : which ' \*>?a. VILLAGE OF DAULIA. 203 called to mind the Athenian Pyanepsia, which originally consisted in nothing more than boiled pulse, as the words ttvkvoc and etyeiv, from which it is derived, evince. The villagers found me drawing the Acropolis as they were dancing their way up to it, and seemed determined that I should partake of the general merriment : they overwhelmed me with kindness ; filling my pockets, my hat, and even my portfolio, with their good things ! Every family in the village baked a loaf of delicate white bread, as a present to the priest : these loaves were baked in an oven, like the KXifixviTai aproi of the ancients : the common bread being heavy and coarse, we purchased several of the fine loaves from him, after he had blessed them, which operation is supposed to render them more salubrious to the body, as well as more agreeable to the taste. The common bread is heavy and gritty ; it is covered with ashes, and thus badly baked. 1 The ancients called the loaves baked in this manner EyKpvtpixi, or Etto&tou up™. We found the curiosity of the Daulians not less troublesome than that of the Kastriotes, and united with a considerable share of sim- plicity. Our cottage was generally crowded with visitors, and we were usually obliged to dine in the presence of at least twenty per- sons looking on, and making their remarks. We happened to have with us a dark-green bottle filled with wine : the villagers had never before seen a bottle of this kind, and supposed that it derived its colour from the wine which it contained. When therefore they per- ceived that it preserved its dark colour after it had been emptied of its contents, one of the by-standers exclaimed to the others, " What kind of men are these, who empty their bottle, while it always re- mains full ? It is a magic bottle, which supplies them with a per- petual draught, and they must be friends of the devil I" To vin- dicate ourselves from so foul an imputation, and at the same time, 1 Aiht'iiuus Deipnosoph. b. 3. c. 29. 2 D 2 204 RUINS OF DAULIS. anxious to satisfy the curiosity of these poor people, we shewed them the bottle, which was handed round to all the company, and no doubt became an object of their wonder, and a topic of their conversation, for several days. These otherwise insignificant anecdotes are introduced merely for the purpose of giving an insight into the manners of the people. Daulis is in the diocese of the Bishop of Talando ; but pays tithes to the Voivode of Libadea. It stands upon a hill projecting from Parnassos, which rises be- hind it, in towering majesty. The vicinity of this snow-topped mountain renders the situation of Daulis intensely cold during; the winter months. No olives grow m ^ ts neighbourhood ; and but lit- tie corn is reaped, or wine made. In the plain, at the foot of the mountain, are some profitable rice-grounds. The ancient town was erected on the site, which is at present occupied by the village and its gardens ; but the buildings extended lower down towards the plain. Two of the churches are composed almost entirely of anci- ent blocks and architectural fragments, amongst which I found a line inscription on a slab of marble : it is a decree of Titus Flavius Eubulus, about some land at Daulis, in the time of the emperor Trajan. On the other side of the same slab is another inscription, of -which I am unacquainted with the purport. The Acropolis is situated upon an oblong rock above the village ; some part of the walls are in the second style ; but it seems to have been twice almost entirely demolished and rebuilt, the greater part of the walls being in the third and fourth styles : it was burnt by Xerxes, 1 and again destroyed in the third sacred Avar, but it was evidently in existence in the time of Trajan. It was perhaps re- tained, as a strong hold, after the ruin of the city : Livy 8 notices its strengh — " Daulis, quia in tumulo excelso sita est, nee scabs, nee operibus, capi poterat." 1 B. 8. c. 35. « B. 32. c. 18. RUINS OF DAULIS. 205 The Acropolis is precipitous on all sides, and had but one entrance, which looks towards Parnassos ; it was defended by square towers, extending round the edge of the rock, and projecting from the walls. Of some of these towers the lower parts remain : they were constructed like those of the other fortified cities in Greece, accord- ing to the rule of Vitruvius, who says that they ought to project from the walls, on the outside, in order that the assailants may be annoyed in front, and on each side. The gate is also constructed according to his plan ; the approach to it exposes the right side of the besieger, which has not the shield, to the besieged, by whom he may be assailed to advantage from their walls. The lintel of the gate is fallen ; it stood between two round towers composed of small stones and mortar; apparently of Roman construction. There are two inscriptions within the ruined church of the Acropolis ; but which are so corroded by time, as to be totally illegible. There are some large caverns in the rock of the Acropolis, which seem to be the work of nature, and are now the retreat of sheep and goats. To the west of the citadel is a rocky hill, with a deep narrow glen, through which runs a stream called Platania, which comes from Parnassos, and enters the plain of Chaeroneia, at the foot of the Daulian rocks. Strabo 1 calls Daulis a small town, and says that Homer gives it the name of Daulida, but that in his time it was called Daulia ; which appellation it has retained to the present day. Polybius calls it Daulion. Pausanias 2 says it was a thinly-inhabited town in his time. As the weather was cold while I was at this place, I neither saw the swallow nor the nightingale ; but the lapwing abounds in the 1 B. noyi-^vioy, b. 9- p. 423. * B. 10. c. 4 ; lie gives it the title of no\ic. 206 MOUNT PARNASSOS. neighbouring plain. The adventure 1 of Tereus, Progne, and Phi- lomela, is supposed to have happened at Daulis about 1,440 years before Christ. Parnassos is seen to great advantage from the plain below Daulis ; its bleak and rugged sides are in some places covered with trees ; the summits are crowned with pines, and glitter with snow. Some way above Daulis is the monastery called Jerusalem. The outline of this mountain is regular ; resembling Olympos in Thessaly ; and deserving more the epithet of wo\v$eipa,g, z than of Smopvp&og, 5 or biceps, which is indeed applicable only to the Phaedriades above Delphi. It is in this sense that it is called Stxopvtpog by Euripides, and ZiXotpog by Sophocles, although it has not been understood by the generality of poets. Herodotus, Catullus, and Statius, give it one top. Ovid, Persius, Lucan, Silius Italicus, and Lucian, have adopted the common error in giving it two ; Ser- vius places Parnassos in Thessaly ; and divides it into Cithreron and Helicon ! More errors could scarcely have been contained in so few words ! Daulis presents an interesting view, which is extended over the rich plain of Chaeroneia and Panopeus towards the town of Libadea: Mount Akontios is seen with the divine 4 Cephissos winding at its base. At a great distance are distinguished the snow-topped heights of Mount Delphi, in Euboea. According to Demosthenes, 5 there were twenty-two cities in Phocis all difficult to take ; they were however almost all destroyed either by the Persians or in the civil wars. 1 Ovid. Metam. b. 6. ' Many-topped. s Lucian'a Charon. :1 Homer, Iliad. 2. * De falsa legal. ARRIVAL AT AGIOS-BLASIOS. 207 TO AGIOS-BLASIOS, PANOPEUS. We quitted Daulis on the nth; and after descending into the plain, crossed a small river, composed of the two united streams called Aliphantino and Platania, which rise on Parnassos, and flow in a winding course towards Orchomenos. To the right near the hills was a village called Malta, belonging to Libadea, and com- posed of thirty cottages. We passed by a small church ; and in one hour arrived at the village of Agios-Blasios, 1 the ancient Panopeus. Pausanias 2 says that the distance between this place and Daulis is only seven stadia. This is evidently an error ; and I conjecture that the real distance cannot be less than twenty-seven, as the perform- ance occupied one hour. We found the people at this place insolent and inhospitable; no one would give us a lodging for the night. I was the more sur- prised at this, because they were Greeks, who are in general not deficient in kindness, and assiduity to strangers. But we must remember that Panopeus is no longer on the sacred way, along which the votaries of Apollo danced to Delphi ; 3 but on the high road from Libadea to Salftna ; and they are so frequently harassed by the intrusion of the Turks, who live upon them at free quarters, without paying any thing, that they concluded we should do the same. An Arnaut Mussulman, the Agha of the vil- 1 This is the tutelar saint of Ragusa ; the Greeks pronounce it Aivlasb, and the English Saint Blase. 1 B. 10. c. 4. 3 Pausan. b. 10. c. 4. citing Homer, Odjss. 1 1. v. 580. 208 RUINS OF PANOPEUS. lage, was more insolent and morose than the Greeks themselves, and absolutely refused to let us lodge in the place. When I told him that I had a ferman from his sultan, he said that if I had fifty fer- mans they would avail me nothing ; on my producing it however he started with surprise, and begged me to put it up again, as he did not like the sight of it ! He immediately ordered that the best house in the village should be set apart for our use; and that some fowls should be killed for our supper : in short, he did ever}' thing in his power to make amends for his former ill behaviour, and begged that we would not prefer any complaints against him to the Voivode of Libadea. On the following day, when we were quitting the village, after having paid liberally for every thing, besides making a present of trinkets to the mistress of the cottage, they were as anxious to induce us to stop, as they were at first to drive us away. These people, like others, may be favourably impressed by the principles of justice and humanity. Strabo says that this place was anciently called Panopeus, although in his time it was called Phanoteus. Pausanias calls it by its former name ; Herodotus, Panopeai ; Thucydides, Phanotis ; Polybius, Phanoteus; and Livy, Phanotea: it probably received its name from its lofty and commanding 1 situation, rather than from the son of Phocus. Pausanias 2 says that the circuit of Panopeus is about seven stadia ; but it is evident that he alludes to the Acropolis alone. This was probably the only inhabited part in his time, as he calls it a mi- serable little place, not deserving the name of city, and containing neither gymnasiam, theatre, agora, nor fountain. On the northern side of the Acropolis, however, near the remains of the gate, a clear spring issues from the ground, and forms a small stream, which, after trickling a short way down the hill, disappears amongst the 1 From nay and o\p. s B. 10. c. 4. RUINS OF PANOPEUS. 209 stones. Near this spring is a votive rock, in which there are niches for offerings, with some illegible inscriptions. The walls of the Acropolis extend round the rocky summit of a hill ; and exhibit specimens of the three last styles of Grecian masonry, although polygons are seen only in a few places ; some of the stones are twelve feet in length. The square towers which project from the walls, like those of Daulis, are apparently of a less ancient construction than the rest of the enclosure ; some of them arc extremely perfect, and contain doors and windows of the usual form, diminishing towards the top. In some places, the steps leading up to the entrances of the towers are cut in the rock. Besides the gate above-mentioned, which faces Parnassos, there is another on the western side of the Acropolis, built with very large blocks, of the third style : the outer surface is left in a rough state: the architrave is fallen. The only remains within the walls are two wells cut in the rock, and two dilapidated churches, but no architectural fragments or inscriptions. Panopeus was destroyed by Xerxes, and probably never afterwards recovered its former prosperity. Pausanias 1 mentions only a small temple at Panopeus, which was of unbaked bricks ; there were other examples of this kind of construction, the principal of which were the walls of Mantineia, 2 those of Eion, in Thrace, a temple of Ceres, at Lepr«*os, 3 in Tri- phylia ; another, to the same goddess, at Stiris, 4 in Phocis, ano- ther in Argolis, 5 and the portico of Kotios, 6 at Epidauros. Ac- cording to Mr. Hamilton, 7 some pyramids constructed in the same manner are still seen in Egypt. Pietro della Valle mentions a pyra- mid at Babylon similarly built ; 8 and a great part of that city was composed with the same materials. Pausanias seems doubtful whether 1 B.9. c.4. * Pausan. b. 8. c. 8. 3 Id. b. 6. c. 5. * Id. b. 10. c. 35. a Id. b. 2. c. 18. 6 Id. b. 2. c. 27. 7 /Egyptiaca. « Vol. 1. letter 17. VOL. I. 2 E 210 RUINS OF PANOPEUS. the temple of Panopeus was dedicated to JEsculapius or Prome- theus ; if to the latter, it was probably constructed of unbaked bricks, in allusion to the circumstance of clay being used by Prometheus in his formation of man. I examined the banks of the torrent, which is to the west of the Acropolis, but had not the good fortune to discover any of the stones which Prometheus used in his formation of the human race, nor to identify the sepulchre of Tityos, although his body covered nine acres, 1 or, according to Pausanias, 2 equalled the third of a stadium ! Parnassos forms a most impressive and magnificent spectacle from Panopeus. It displays its gigantic magnitude above the broken crags of Kirphis. The ruins of Daulis are seen at its feet; with the rich and even plain, once dyed with the best blood of Greece, and now adorned with the brightest colours from the purple blood of Adonis. 3 The Kopaic lake, its boundary mountains, and the distant heights of Euboea, are also distinguishable. TO LIBADEA. On the 12th we quitted Agios-Blasios ; and to our right, saw a village called Mera, and some blocks of stone near the road. A little further is an ancient well, and some foundations and stones : this was probably the entrance into Bceotia. On the right we descried the village of Kapourna, on the ruins of Chaeroneia, 1 Homer, Odyss. 11. v. 576. 2 B. 10. c. 4. * The Anemony. Ovid. Metam. 10. LIBADEA, SPECIMEN OF A GREEK HOUSE. 211 which is about two miles from the remains of Panopeus, and was the extreme boundary of Bosotia; 1 but from the unfavourable reception which we had experienced at the last place, we thought it more pru- dent to proceed toLibadea, in order to procure proper letters and in- structions for visiting the neighbouring villages. The road traversed a green and fertile plain, pasturing numerous and large flocks of sheep. After having crossed some barren hills, which command a view of Lake Kopais, we passed through some rich arable land, crossed a small river, and arrived at Libadea in three hours and a quarter. We went to the house of the archon, John Logotheti, whose hospitality I had enjoyed on my former tour, and from whom I now received every mark of kindness and atten- tion. He had lately completed a large and showy house, which was only begun when I passed through Greece on my first tour. His friends censure his improvident temerity : for the Greeks find it a necessary point of policy to conceal their wealth, and to assume a semblance of poverty. For if a Greek is known to possess any thing more than usually splendid, it generally excites the rapacity of the Turks, and frequently accelerates the destruction of the possessor. The brother of the archon was beheaded at Constantinople, because his wealth was found sufficiently large to be confiscated for the use of the sultan; and crimes were readily fabricated to justify the pu- nishment. The house of Logotheti is a good specimen of the better kind of modern dwellings in Greece; and it seems in some respects to resemble those of early ages. A double or folding door (the TTukctt egKeio? of the ancients) opens into a court, or «uA??, on two sides of which is a corridor, the «;(W« of Homer. 3 The kitchen and me- nial offices occupy the ground floor ; the stairs, which are on the out- side of the house, lead to a large open gallery, useful in rainy weather for walking and taking the air under cover. Contiguous to the gal- lery are the apartments, which are divided into two sets, one for the Thucyd. b. 4. g. 76. * iEschylus, x°W ot - *• 560. 652. 3 Odyg's. 3. v. 493. 2 e2 212 LIBADEA, ROSIN WINE. men, the other for the women ; the uvSpuv, or uvtyuvtris, and the ywouxeiov, or ywuiKuviTig, of the ancients. The wall which separates the house from the street, and in which is the entrance, was the ^oSo^og, or vrpoccvXicv . Libadca is situated on the northern side of a mountain, probably a part of Libethrios, which joins the chain of Helicon. It is crowned by a modern castle, which is now mouldering in decay. The town contains about ten thousand inhabitants, half of whom are Turks. The Greeks are powerful and rich, and have four primates, one of whom is Logotheti. The power of the Pasha of Joannina extends to this place--; and he has more than once summoned its archons to the capital of Epiros, to answer for real or supposed misdemeanours which had been alleged against them, and to pamper the cravings of his avarice. Here are six mosques, and as many principal churches ; the latter in the diocese of the Archbishop of Athens. The chief commerce of Libadea consists in cotton, and the red die prinari, which they export to Trieste, Venice, Leghorn, Genoa, and some- times to England. The neighbouring plains produce silk, rice, tobacco, and corn : the wine is plentiful, but of the worst quality ; one ocque, or two pounds and three quarters weight of turpentine is infused in each barrel, Ve- netian measure, which consists of twenty-four English gallons : the same proportion of rosin is used at Patra ; but in many parts of Greece half this quantity is reckoned sufficient. I have no hesitation in asserting, that the sour beer of England is in general preferable to the resinous beverage of Greece. The prac- tice of mixing rosin with wine is of ancient date, as we see in Celsus, 1 Pliny, 2 and Plutarch. The former says, that the vinum resinatum was good for the stomach; and the latter 3 asserts, that the pine Avas sacred to Bacchus on that account ; and this is no doubt the reason that the Mainades and Bacchantes are represented with the pine- 1 B. 2. c. 19. * N. Hist. b. 23. c. 1. he terms it Vinum resinatum, and Pice conditum. 3 Sjmpos. 5. quest. 3. LI BADE A, CLIMATE. 213 topped thyrsus ; and the fauns, and other attendants of the god, are represented on ancient monuments, adorned with the pine-tree crown. The using rosin in wine has probably never been abandoned. Luitprand, bishop of Cremona, during his embassies from Berenger, king of Italy, and from the emperor Otho to the emperor Nicephorus Phocas, in the years 948 and 968, complains of his bad fare at Con- stantinople, and particularly of the rosin wine — " Accessit ad cala- mitatein nostram quod grsecorum vinum ob picis, tsedae, gypsi cora- mixtionem, nobis impotabile fuit/" 1 Libadea forms an unhealthy residence during the hot months, as the waters of Lake Kopais, which are then partially dried up, stagnate in pools and swamps, from which pestilential effluvia and putrid miasmas are exhaled, and by which the principles of contagion are diffused. Towards the end of autumn, the shepherds set fire to the lofty reeds, and luxuriant weeds, which grow in the bed or vicinity of the lake; after which it produces fine pasture for their flocks. Wild boars, which have taken shelter amongst the reeds, are sometimes found completely burned after the fire is extinguished. The winters of Libadea are intensely cold, and the summers vio- lently hot. On the fourth of July, 1801, when I was at this place, Fahrenheit's thermometer rose to 96° within doors; on the fifth, it was at 93° ; the outer air was much hotter. The plague visited Libadea in the year 1785; it raged fifteen months, and destroyed about 6,000 persons. This place, and indeed most parts of Greece, is infested by locusts, the Gryllus migratorim, which destroy great part of the produce of the land ; but they are more particularly fond of the cotton plant. In the spring of 1801, the whole vegetation of the country was threatened by myriads of these potent ravagers. The quantity Which was destroyed, and the manner in which it 1 Luitprand's Embassy, Antwerp, 1640. in fol 214 LIBADEA, LOCUSTS. was effected, is very curious ; and dependence may be placed upon the account, as I received it from Logotheti, by whom the business was superintended. After many ineffectual attempts to destroy them, such as setting fire to the trees and grass infested by their swarms, an expedient of a very simple nature was adopted, and with good success. Before the great heats came on, and before the locusts had acquired much strength or activity, the inhabitants went out in crowds, and while some spread large pieces of cloth on the ground, others disturbed the trees and grass where they had settled : the locusts resorted in masses to the pieces of cloth, where they remained unmolested, until a sufficient quantity had accumulated, when they were folded up and crushed ; and being put into sacks were brought to the Greek primates, who paid four paras for each ocque: 80,000 ocques of this devastating insect were taken in the spring ; and in one morn- ing, when they darkened the atmosphere with a living cloud, 8,000 ocques were caught. The people imagined that not a locust was left in the country; the few which escaped them having been eaten by the storks. The priests of Libadea were unwilling that the lo- custs should be destroyed ; observing that they were sent by the Al- mighty as a scourge for the sins of the people. In Scripture 1 we see accounts of plagues and famine, occasioned by locusts, in Egypt and Judea. The Persians, Syrians, Africans, and almost all the Asiatics made them an object of food. Diodorus Siculus* mentions a people near the Ethiopians who fed upon them, for which reason they were called Akridophagoi, locust eaters. Strabo 3 also mentions a nation which eat them ; and Elian 4 says he has seentettiges sold for food : I suspect however that he uses the word tett<| instead of uKftg, or ux()i8tov ; the former being never found in sufficient quantity to form an object of subsistence ; besides, they are not much larger 1 Exodus c. 10. v. 12. 14,8cc— See Michaelis Glyca?. Annal. Pars 2. p. 153. Paris Edit. * B. 3. c. 28. ' B. 16. he uses the word arpij. * De Animal, b. 12. c. 6. LIBADEA, LOCUSTS. 215 than a hornet, and are not easily taken. Athenseus, 1 citing Aristo- phanes (in Anygero), says that tettiges were eaten to create an appe- tite ; they were probably impregnated with vinegar like our pickles. Sir Hans Sloane 2 says they have the taste of shrimps, and that men and cattle sometimes died from eating them. They are either pickled in vinegar, or fried, when fresh, in butter. Tavernier 3 opened one near Ispahan, which was six inches long, and contained seventeen young ones. Volney 4 gives an interesting account of their ravages in Syria. Dr. Clarke 5 gives a detailed history of their destructive ravages in Crimea. In Asia, they sometimes fly in such im- mense quantities as to darken the air ; they migrate to an astonish- ing distance, and Pliny, in his Natural History, asserts that they went from Africa to Italy : they are sometimes precipitated by the wind into the marshes and lakes, where they putrify, and diffuse a stench through the country, which generates acute fevers and putrid disorders. When they settle in great quantities in a cultivated field, the rapidity of their destructive agency is almost equal to that of fire ; in the course of a few minutes they consume every blade of ve- getation, and a green field is, in an astonishingly short time, converted into an unseemly desert. The locust of Greece is much smaller than that of the east : the green locusts, which are seldom seen in flocks, are about two inches in length ; but the common destructive insect is about one inch long, the upper wings are of a brown colour, the under ones blue, and sometimes red, and the body yellow, similar to those in the Roman territory. Pausanias 6 says that Lebadeia was one of the most ornamented towns in Greece : in remote ages it was called Medeia, and occu- pied the hill on which the modern castle now stands. When the inhabitants removed to the plain it assumed the name of Lebadeia, 1 Deipnosoph. b. 4. c. 4. * Nat. Hist, of Jamaica. * Travels in Persia, b. 2. 4 VoJ - 1- s Vol.2. e B. 9. c. 39. 216 ORACULAR CAVERN OF TROPHONIOS. which it still retains with little alteration, being written Libadea. Pau- sanias pretends that it took its name from the Athenian Lebados ; but it seems more probable that it was derived from its situation near the sources of the Hercyne, taking its name from X«6«$ or A;£«iW, a fountain, or from \i£cc$ix, a plain or meadow, in which sense that word is used by the historian Theophanes. The sacred forest of Trophonios, and the oracular cavern, were in its vicinity, with the fountains Lethe and Mnemosyne, and the temple 1 of the nymph Hercyne, who gave her name to the neighbouring river. The temples of Trophonios and Ceres were in the sacred forest, and those of Proserpine, of Jupiter, and Apollo, decorated the way which led to the oracle ; but of these temples not a trace remains. There is a rough and stony channel behind the town, worn by the winter torrents. From this glen rises a precipitous rock, on which stands the castle. In the eastern face of the rock is a chamber nearly of a square form, 2 cut by art, and raised three or four feet from the present level of the ground, but to which we ascended by steps formed by the present Voivode, who uses it as a cool retreat for smoking, in the summer. Within the cave, just under the roof, are still seen the remains of some elegant painted ornaments ; particularly the funereal leaf, which is delineated on terra cotta vases, and on other ancient monuments, which I shall mention here- after. It is probable that this place contained the statues of iEscula- pius and Hygeia. The rock which is contiguous to the cave is full of niches of various sizes, for statues and votive offerings; and in one part, a few large letters are the only legible remains of an inscription beginning ZETEBOTAAIOE, which is also inscribed on some brass medals of Per- gamos, under the figure of Jupiter, and is the same as the Jupiter 1 Livv, b. 45. c. C7. Pnusan. b. y. c. f><). Twelve feet nine inches b_v eleven feet four, and eight feet six inches in height. ORACULAR CAVERN OF TROPHONIOS. 217 Conciliarius of the Romans. Near this, the sacred fountain issues from the rock bj r ten small modern spouts ; the water is extremely cold and clear. On the opposite side of the channel is the source of the other fount ; the water of which, though not warm, is of a much higher tem- perature than that of the other spring; it flows copiously from the rock. The two springs of Memory and Oblivion, blending their waters, pass under a modern bridge, and immediately form a rapid stream, the ancient Hercyne : which contains excellent fish of a small size. In its way through the town it turns several mills ; and after a course of a few miles enters Kopais lake. It is singular that Pliny 1 calls this river Orchomenus; his words are " In Bceotia, ad Trophonium deum, juxta flumen Orchomenum, duo sunt fontes, quorum alter Memo- riam, alter Oblivionem adfert." Pausanias 2 says that the fountains are within the cave ; but his words must not be rigorously in- terpreted. Those who consulted the oracle took the cold bath, but not the hot. It has been already observed that the two springs differ in their temperature. The channel above the sources of the Hercyne is dry in summer ; but in the winter it is sometimes rolled into a rapid torrent by the force of the rains, and the streams of melted snow from the neighbouring mountains. It is full of large stones, belonging perhaps to the temples which were situated on its banks, and which, by time and the repeated action of the winter torrent, have lost their angles, and been reduced to their present rounded form. The oracular cavern was no doubt near this spot ; the entrances were small, and when the god had ceased to speak, and the place was neglected, it might easily have been closed by an earthquake, or the overflowing of the river ; but it was more probably blocked up by design, at the introduction of Christianity; when the altars, the statues, and temples of the gods, together with the sacred forests, Nat. Hist. b. 3 1 . c. 2. * B. 9. c. 39. tv ™ nri|kii. VOL. I. 2 F 218 ORACULAR CAVERN OF TROPHONIOS. and other associated embellishments of an elegant superstition, were devoutly levelled with the ground. " But ye shall destroy their altars, break their images, and cut down their groves." 1 — This was the order the Jews received from Moses, and which the Christians adopted and implicitly obeyed, to the great detriment of architec- ture and sculpture. Constantine the Great destroyed the temples of the gods, and converted their brazen statues into money. 2 The cavern had two mouths, one sacred, the other profane : near the square chamber already mentioned there is a small orifice in the rock, not three feet in height, and about six in depth ; some have supposed this to be one of the entrances, but it is more probable they are concealed under the present surface, which appears to have been considerably elevated. It is indeed almost certain, that the Trophonian cavern, with its subterraneous wonders and oracular curiosities, might be brought to light by a little expense and perseverance. Pausanias is rather obscure respecting its situation. Strabo 3 calls the cavern Xcc Published by the Count de Choiseul Gouffier. RUINS OF CH^ERONEIA. 223 lowed out into asquare form, for receiving the bottom of the table. Altars of this kind were placed on the road sides in the country. They were of the uwupoi and uvouficMTot kind, unstained with fire and blood, being set apart for exclusive oblations of honey, cakes, and fruit. Harpocration describes it as Ktuv ef o%j Xyyuv, a column dimi- nishing towards the top : Hesychius calls it Bupog ev a-xw^Ti kiovo?, an altar in the form of a column. They are common in Greece, and generally formed of a coarse black stone ; those of Chaeroneia, however, are of white marble : they are frequently found in Italy, and are at present used as pedes- tals for large vases ; their height is in general about three feet. They are never inscribed, and sometimes not fluted ; and are fre- quently represented on painted terra cotta vases. The thronos and the altar above-mentioned stand in the innermost recess of the church, a place which seems at present to be regarded with a sentiment of awe similar to that with which the adytum, or anaktoron, was by the ancients ; for although several of the villagers followed us into the church, not one would pass the partition which incloses the altar. When I inquired the reason of this, it was an- swered, that no one but the priest was permitted to penetrate into the uyiot tuv ot.yi.uv (holy of holies) under pain of excommunication. There is a fine inscription within the church, and two others are seen on the outer walls. A short way out of the village towards the plain, is the church of Saint Speridion ; on the outer wall of which is an in- scription which contains the name of the town. Near this is a copious spring, with a scattered variety of ancient blocks, altars, pedestals, and mutilated inscriptions. The water forms a small stream, which soon loses itself in the neighbouring marshes ; and several fine foun- dations may be descried near this spot, which was evidently once copiously adorned. The angles of these foundations are formed in the manner of those on which the steps of the great temple at Pes- tum are fixed ; consisting of one block instead of two. This method so evidently contributes to stability and permanence, that it is sur- prising it has not been uniformly adopted. 224 BATTLE OF CHAERONEIA. A little further in the plain are the remains of two Roman struc- tures of brick ; perhaps those which contained the two trophies 1 erected by Sylla, for his victory over Taxiles and Archelaos, gene- rals of Mithridates the First. It appears from Plutarch, 2 that the battle commenced at Mount Thurion, which terminates in a pointed summit anciently called Orthopagon ; having at its base the river Morios, and the temple of Apollo Thurios. The Kapourniotes have a tradition that Chaeroneia took its name from Chaeroneos, who they think was the son of King Plutarch ; they have also some confused notions of the battle, which they say was fought by Alexander, whose name is much better known in Greece than that of his father Philip. The fountain above-mentioned forms a stream and a marsh, the mud of which is of a red hue. This is imagined to have been the spot where the battle raged. A poor shepherd told me that this was the plain where the Greeks were slaughtered by Alexander ; and that the place was called from thence, Aipovoc. o Keeping, the Plain of Blood. Plutarch 3 mentions a small river near Chaeroneia called Haemon, which he supposes to have been originally named Ther- modon ; but which, being filled with blood at the battle, took the name of Haemon. 4 The modern name of the Haemon is Pbv^u, which signifies a stream, that is visible only during the winter. According to Plutarch, 5 several tombs of the Amazons were seen on the banks of this river. Pausanias 6 mentions a river Thermodon near Glisas in Bceotia. According to Procopius, 7 Chaeroneia, and several other places in Bceotia, Achaia, and Thessaly, were destroyed by an earth- quake about the middle of the sixth century. 1 Pausau. b. 9. c. 39. ! Life of Sylla. 3 Life of Demosthenes. 4 At/iov. 3 Life of Theseus. 6 B. 9. c. 19. 7 De Bello Goth. b. 4. p. 369, of Paris edit. CHAPTER VIII. To Skripou, anciently Orchomenos. Plain of Cha?roneia. Ruins of Orchomenos. Treasury of Minyas. Lake Kopais — its towns, rivers, and mountains — outlets of the Lake. River Cephissos. Village of Romaiko. Village of Granitza. Return to Libadea. To Mikrokoura, anciently Haliartos — ruins of the city. Eremo-Kastro, anciently Thespeia — ruins of the city. To Kakosia, anciently Thisbe — ruins of the city. Mount Helicon. To the Village of Katsikabeli. To Thebes. TO SKRIPOU, ORCHOMENOS. On the 18th we quitted Kapourna, and proceeded along the banks of the Haemon, Avhich at this time exhibited a visible current, though in summer it is no longer to be seen. At the end of forty minutes we saw a large tumulus, to the left, with some blocks of stone about it, perhaps the sepulchre of the Theban patriots who fell in the battle. Another tumulus, of still larger dimensions, appears on the right ; which probably constituted the rutpri Sypoo-iu, 1 the common tomb of the Greeks, except the Thebans, which Pau- sanms? terms TToXvxvSpiov, the receptacle of many men. Fifty minutes from Chaeroneia, the stream of the Haemon, or Thermodon, forms a confluence with the Cephissos, which we crossed over a bridge. Near the junction of these rivers are some imperfect traces ; pro- bably the temple of Hercules, near which was the principal fury of the battle. From this spot the prospect is particularly interesting and magnificent. The nearest objects are the bridge, and the junc- tion of the rivers, beyond which the plain is expanded to the foot of Parnassos, which towers above in all its sublimity and magnitude. The plain is closed by other hills of diversified forms, on which are distinguished the ruins of Chaeroneia, Panopeus, Daulis, and Para- potamioi. The latter, which is about five miles from Chaeroneia, nearly opposite Panopeus, is situated on a rocky eminence above the Cephissos, on the side of which is a khan. Strabo 3 places it 1 Strabo, b. 9. p. 414. - B. 9. c. 39. 3 B. 9. p. 424. VOL. I. 2 G 226 PLAIN OF CFLERONEIA. forty stadia from Chaeroneia, which corresponds with its probable situation. Plutarch 1 says, that Sylla pointed it out to his army, but that it was quite ruined, and nothing was seen but the ridge of a sharp and craggy mountain, separated from Mount Edylion by the river Assos, which falls into the Cephissos. The plain of Chaeroneia is exuberantly productive : it was at this time covered with the richest verdure ; luxuriant harvests are pro- duced in some parts, while others are enriched by plantations of rice, or animated by numerous flocks of sheep with their long fleeces of silky wool. The Epicephissians, or Parapotamioi, were celebrated for the fertility of their soil, and for the diligence with which they prosecuted its cultivation. After crossing the Cephissos, the plain narrows : we began to as- cend the barren side of Mount Akontios, which, rising to a moderate height opposite Chaeroneia, subsides into the plain of Kopais at Orchomenos. 2 The river Akontios was also in this vicinity. 3 On the side of the hill is a village called Karamousa, and not far from it a small monastery ; several other villages are scattered over the plain to the left. In four hours we arrived at the ruins of Orcho- menos and the village of Skripou. This celebrated 4 city, proverbial in the time of Homer 5 for its riches, still exhibits traces of its former strength, and some remains of its early magnificence. The most ancient ruins are probably in the plain, within the present village. According to Strabo 6 it was afterwards built higher up, on account of the overflowing of the lake : Pausanias 7 pretends that the city was founded by the Thessalian Andreos, from whom it took the name of Andreis; it was afterwards called Phlegyas, from a son of Mars: then Minyas, from the grandson of Neptune ; and Minyeian Orcho- menos, from the son of Minyas. In the time of Thucydides 8 it was called Boeotian Orchomenos, to distinguish it from the town of the same name in Arcadia. 1 Life of Sylla. 2 Strabo, b. 9. p. 416. 3 Plutarch, Life of Sylla. 4 rio\i C nriay>](- Pausan. b. 9. c. 34. s Strabo, b. 9. who cites the 9th Iliad, v. 381. 6 B. 9. p. 416. * B. 9- c 34. 8 B. 4. c. 76. RUINS OF ORCHOMENOS, TREASURY OF MINYAS. 227 At the eastern foot of the Acropolis, and on the northern side of the Cephissos, are the small remains of the treasury of Minyas, which Pausanias 1 styles one of the wonders of Greece. The entrance is entire, though the earth being raised above its ancient level conceals a considerable part of it, as only six large blocks, which are of regular masonry, remain above ground. Of this the entire height is seven feet and a half; its breadth at top is eight feet ; it widens towards the base, where its breadth appears to be at least nine feet, and its height about nineteen or twenty ; it is nearly of the same dimensions as the entrance of the great treasury at Mycenae, but rather larger. The whole building is of white marble. Its lintel, or architrave, is flat, and composed of a single block, the length of which is fifteen feet four inches, the breadth six feet three inches, and the thickness three feet three inches : it accordingly weighs at least twenty-four tons. It must have been brought from a great distance, as the nearest quar- ries of white marble are those of Pentelikon. On the sides of the en- trance are several perforations for nails, as at the treasury at Mycenae. I was enabled to obtain an approximation of the diameter of the Orchomenos treasury, by means of the lintel of the gate; which on the interior being the segment of a circle, gave to the diameter, at this level, sixty-five feet; but the soil having accumulated and the size of the building increasing towards its base, (for when entire it was in form of a gothic dome) its real diameter must be some feet more, which shews it to have been far superior to the treasury at Mycenae. Pausanias, 2 indeed, gives a magnificent de- scription of the former, and only slightly mentions the latter. 3 The great block, however, which forms the lintel over the door of the treasury at Mycenae, is much larger than that at Orchomenos ; but the former was a stone found on the spot, and the latter a foreign material brought from a distance. It appears that the Minyan treasury was double, like that at Mycenae, except that both the chambers of the former were circular, whereas one of those at 1 B. 9. c. 38. s B. 9. c. 37. 3 B. 2. c. 16. 2 G 2 228 TREASURY OF MINYAS. Mycenae was circular, the other quadrangular. The whole of that at Orchomenos has fallen in, except the door ; and there is little doubt that the excavation of the ground would bring to light some curious and interesting remains. It is remarkable that these extraordinary edifices have been seldom described, or even mentioned, by ancient authors. Pausanias is the only one who has given a regular descrip- tion of that at Orchomenos, while he has only slightly noticed that of Mycenae, and that of Hyrieus at Delphi; the latter was built by Trophonios and Agamedes ; the others indeed also probably owe their existence to those early and celebrated architects. Pausanias seems to censure the Greek historians 1 for not mentioning these ex- traordinary edifices; yet he has himself overlooked one treasury near Sparta, and another in the citadel of Pharsalia ; the ruins of which still exist, and which I myself have seen. As for the town of Pharsalia, he only mentions it incidentally ; but he gives such a detailed description of Sparta, that I was surprised by his omission of the treasury ; which, in all probability, is as ancient as those above-mentioned. In his description of Delphi and Olympia, he enumerates several treasuries 2 and repositories ; 3 but dwells only on that of Hyrieus, as a building worthy of particular attention. Those of Mycenae are subterraneous, as he describes them ; that of Or- chomenos was apparently the same in every respect ; of which how- ever he leaves us entirely uninformed. Strabo says nothing of the treasury of Minyas, although he mentions those at Delphi as the subterraneous repositories of the rich offerings of Gyges, Croesos, and others. Onomarchos entered the subterraneous treasuries in the temple of Apollo, and paid his army with the riches which they contained . 4 The treasury of Minyas, which was situated in the lower city, was probably overflowed; and together with the rest of the town, covered 1 Herodotus says that Rampsinitos, king of Egypt, had a chamber of stone for his treasury, b. 2. c. 121. He also mentions the subterraneous treasuries of Sardanapalos, b. 2. c. 150. * Oqixavpoi. 3 AvadwaTa. 4 Strabo, b. 9. p. 421. o 4 TREASURY OF MINYAS. 229 for some centuries by the waters of Kopais lake. The inhabitants retreated to Mount Akontios till the lake was drained, about the time of Alexander ; and this may be the reason why so little men- tion has been made of that curious edifice. Pausanias 1 informs us, that Trophonios and Agamedes practised precisely the same arti- fice in robbing the treasury of Hyrieus, as Herodotus 2 relates of those who robbed the treasury of Rhampsinetos in Egypt. Livy 3 and Plutarch 4 tell us that Philopcemen was put into a sub- terraneous chamber at Messene, called the Treasury, which received neither air nor light from without, and was closed with a large stone. In the island of Sardinia there are several edifices of the highest antiquity, called Noragis ; which are constructed on the same plan, and in the same form as the treasuries of Greece, but are not so large. According to Pausanias, 5 Norax, with a colony of Iberians, built a town in Sardinia called Nora : the Noragis may possibly take their name and origin from Norax. The Orchomenian Acropolis stands on a steep rock, part of Mount Akontios, rising close to the west of the lower town ; the Cephissos winds at its southern base. The walls, which extend from the plain to the summit of the hill, enclose an irregular triangle, the acuter angle of which terminates at the summit of the rock, which is crowned with a strong tower, nearly of a square form, the walls of which are regularly constructed. In the interior, a large cistern is formed in the solid rock ; ninety-one steps which are about six feet wide, are cut in the rock and lead up to the tower, the position of which is remarkably strong. It commands an extensive view over Phocis and Bceotia, having the plain of Chaeroneia and Parnas- sos to the north-west, Libadea to the south, and lake Kopais to the east, bounded by Helicon, Phoinikios, and Ptoon ; while the dis- tant horizon is terminated by the mountains of Eubcea. The walls which enclose the Acropolis are much more ancient than those of the tower. The three first styles are visible ; the polygonal 1 B. 9. c. 37. " B. 2. c. 121. 3 B. 39. c. 50. * Life of Philopcemen. * B. 10. c. 17. 230 ACROPOLIS OF ORCHOMENOS. construction is predominant; the Tirynthian style is seen only in a few places, and the walls seem to have experienced at least two great overthrows. Diodorus Siculus 1 says, that the city was destroyed by Hercules; and that it underwent a similar catastrophe in the war against the Thebans ; which happened about 364 years before Christ. The walls which are characterized by the earliest style, of which some few specimens remain in the Acropolis, were probably built before the time of Hercules : those which indicate the second style were erected after the early destruction of the citadel. The tower and regular restorations were probably constructed about thirty years after the demolition of the city by the Thebans, as they resemble the less ancient part of the Plataean walls, which were raised by Alexander. One gate of the Acropolis is entire, and is situated in the southern wall, facing Libadea. It diminishes towards the top, and is covered with two large blocks or lintels. In the opposite or northern wall are the remains of another gate, but without the lintel. There was no doubt, a third in the base of the triangle, communicating with the lower town. The general thickness of the walls is seven feet. Near the treasury of Minyas is an ancient monastery, called Pa- nagia Kemis. On the outside of the semi-circular recess, formed by the altar, are some inscriptions of the lower empire, one of which has been accurately published by Doctor Clarke ; the others may be referred to in the Appendix. The papas, who directed my attention to these inscriptions, said that they related to the foundation of Orchomenos by king Protos- patharios. This word 7rpoToq7ra.Qa.ptos occurs in two of the inscriptions, and was the title of the first sword-bearer of the Greek emperors, which the priest mistook for a proper name. Near the entrance of the monastery is an ancient inscription 2 on a loose block of marble ; and on the left hand side, beyond the 1 B. 4. C. 10. Tt\v iroKiv Kart(TKa\pi. e Since sent to England, and now in the British Museum. Other inscriptions from the same place have been published by Colonel Leake, in the 26th Number of the Classical Journal, June, 1816, p. 332. The name of the town in these inscriptions is written EPXO- MENOI instead of OPXOMENOI. RUINS OF ORCHOMENOS. 231 entrance is another fixed in the wall, both of great interest, and rela- tive to the same subject ; but, as they have been published by Dr. Clarke, with his usual accuracy, I shall only add, that Larcher, in his notes on the first book of Herodotus, is of opinion, that x<0ap<;, was the lyre ; and that KiQupa, was a different instrument ; and that uQupio-Tiis was the performer on the first, and ntltyuSiis, on the latter. I have mentioned this opinion of the translator of Herodotus, as these words occur in both the inscriptions. The word xtQupurTw may however apply to the performer of the xiQxpx, as well as of the KiQapig, if they were different instruments. The termination io-ty^ seems al- ways to be applied to the performer on any instrument, as lyrist, organist, &c. but w$j generally means vocal music. Might not KtQxpuSrn then signify one who sings to the lyre or harp ? Bion 1 clearly distinguishes the xiQxptg from the %eAu? — u$ xe\w Eppuuv KtGupivSi' us ah? AnoXXuv — on the outer wall of the church are other inscriptions ; some of which are sepulchral. There is also the following curious sun-dial, which is deserving of particular attention. The monastery occupies the site of some edifice of consequence, as it. is formed almost entirely from the frusta of plain columns, tri- glyphs, unornamented metopae, and marble fragments. It is probable that the temple of the Graces once adorned this spot. It was founded, according to Strabo 2 and Pausanias 3 by Eteocles, 1 Idyll. 3. v. 7- B. 9- P- 414. 3 B.9. c. SJ. 232 RUINS OF ORCHOMENOS. king of Orchomenos. Pindar 1 calls Orchomenos the City of the Graces ; and it was also celebrated for a fountain that was conse- crated to those divinities and denominated Akidalia, which induced Virgil 2 to designate Venus by the title of " Mater Acidalia." Martial 3 uses an expression nearly similar. Strabo takes no notice of the fountain ; Pausanias mentions it, but without any particular name. Strabo is also silent concerning the temple of Bacchus, which is noticed by Pausanias. There is a bas-relief in the village, which ap- pears to be the fragment of a metopa ; it represents the bucranhim, or skull of an ox, with bandages round its horns, and a cornuco- pia? on each side, Avreathed with the olive and the ivy. This frag- ment perhaps belonged to the temple of Bacchus ; to whom both the ivy and the ox were sacred. We were shewn a spot where a Mosaic pavement had been found a few years before ; but it was concealed under a covering of mud and water. Pausanias* mentions the sepulchres of Minyas, and that of Hesiod, at Orchomenos ; in the vicinity of the village, there is a tu- mulus of earth, which may be one of the sepulchres mentioned by Pausanias, or that raised over the remains of Actaeon. The only coins of Orchomenos, which have as yet been found, are the small silver, of which there are some varieties. The most common have a grain of corn on one side, and the indented square on the reverse ; these are generally uninscribed, but some have the letters EP. I have seen another with the Boeotian shield on one side, and on the other EPX. 5 within a wreath, and under it two grains of corn. There is one in the collection of Dr. Hunter, which on one side has the diota with the legend EPXO, and on the other side the Boeotian aspis with an ear of corn upon it. I purchased the following coins of a countryman upon the spot. t£("iP 1 Pyth. Od. 12. * /Eneid. 1. v. 720. 3 B.6. Epig. 13. 4 B. 9. c. 38. 5 The epsilon instead of the omikron is also observed in the Orchomenian inscriptions. It is the iEolic dialect. LAKE KOPAIS. 233 The site of Aspledon is probably marked by a tower on an insulated hill, about two miles and a half to the n.e. of Orchomenos, near the range of hills, which inclose the lake and plain on that side. Strabo 1 says, that it is twenty stadia from Orchomenos, in which space the river Melas intervenes. The situation of Tegyrai is unknown, but the detailed account of Plutarch might lead to the discovery. He says, 2 that the temple of Apollo Tegyraios, and the forsaken oracle, which fable makes the birth-place of Apollo, was situated near Mount Delos, and two copious springs, remarkable for their cold and limpid waters, which were called the Palm, and the Olive ; and that it was in this spot, and not near two trees in the island of Delos, but near the sources which bore their names, that Latona was delivered of Apollo. He places Mount Ptoon in the vicinity; from which it would appear, that Tegyrai was on the side of the lake, between Orchomenos and Akraiphnion. I know no spot from whence the view of lake Kopais, and its plain, is so clear and extensive as from the Acropolis of Orchome- nos. Whelcr's description of it is so accurate and comprehensive, that little can be added to what he has already said. It was gene- rally known to the ancients by the name of Cephissis, 3 or Cephissos ; 4 but Strabo 5 says, that originally it had several names, which were borrowed from the nearest town ; as Kopais, from Kopai, Haliar- tios, from Haliartos ; but that it afterwards was generally distin- guished by the name of Kopais. Pliny 6 calls it the lake of Orcho- menos, and Pausanias, 7 Kopais, or Cephissis : but he calls the river Cephissos, and Strabo makes the same distinction; he gives it a cir- cumference of three hundred and eighty stadia. It is at present called Xipvy, by way of eminence. Its principal supplies are derived from 1 B. 9. p. 415. * Life of Pelopidas, and Cessation of Oracles. 3 Homer's Iliad, 2. v. 523. Hymn to Apollo, v. 280. Strabo, b. 9. Pausan. b. 9, c. 24. * Ovid writes it with a single s. s B. 9. p. 410, 411. e Nat. Hist. b. lG. c. 36. » B. 9. c. 24. VOL. I. 2 II 234 LAKE KOPAIS. the Cephissos, and the Melas. The former river has its source at Lilaea in Phocis ; and after being augmented by several tributary streams, which fall from the mountains, it pursues a sinuous 1 course of many miles, till it enters the plain and lake Cephissis, near Orcho- menos. The Melas rises a short distance from the northern foot of the Acropolis of Orchomenos ; and according to Strabo, disappears in a chasm, 2 near that town. Plutarch 3 says, that only a small branch of it mixes with the Cephissos, while the main body is concealed among the marshes. It is now called pcocvpovepo, or fixvpoTora^og (the black river), which answers to the signification of its ancient name. Its waters are clear ; and where the channel is deep have the dark appearance of other clear and deep rivers. The neighbouring Cephissos is of a different character ; its waters being light-coloured and muddy. The ancient name of Melas, and the modern one of pavpc- vepo, probably originated from these circumstances. The Hercyne, formed by the waters of Lethe and Mnemosyne, enters the plain to the s. e. of Orchomenos. The Phalaros 4 at the foot of Mount Laphystios, the Morios 3 at the foot of Thurios, and the Oplites and Philarios, 6 the Lophis, 7 and the Permessos, 8 with the Olmeios, 9 coming from Helicon, enter the lake near Haliarlos. The Assos 10 joins the river Cephissos, near Mount Edylion ;** the Thermodon unites with it between Chreroneia and Orchomenos, ;md the Akontios 12 at the foot of the mountain of the same name. Theophrastus, in his description of the Orchomenian reeds, mentions a river called n P o|3aT Plutarch (Life of Lysander) says, that these two streams are near Haliartos. The latter is probably the same as the Phalaros. ' Pausan. 8 Pausan. 9 Strabo, b. 9- '» Plutarch's Life ofSylla. II Plutarch's Life of Sylla. w Plutarch's Life of Sylla. LAKE KOPAIS. 235 the Hercyne, are mere winter streams, which are generally dry in summer,when a bare and stony channel is alone left to mark their way . Hence the lake, which is deep only in a few places, is nearly dry in summer ; and in the winter is divided into several large pools, while intermediate portions of land are adorned with villages and cultiva- tion : but after heavy rains it sometimes overflows its natural boundaries, and puts the villagers to flight. I have myself seen the corn and the vineyards covered with water. Orchomenos, Libadea, Topolias, and many other places on the lake, have a summer and a winter road. In my way from Chaeroneia, it was necessary to take the winter road, along the side of Mount Akontios ; and in my journey from Orchomenos to Libadea, the inundation of the whole plain compelled me to make a considerable deviation from the direct route. But during the ensuing summer, when on my second visit to Chaeroneia and Orchomenos, I took the summer road through the plain, which is much shorter. Plutarch 1 relates that when Pelo- pidas retreated with his army from Orchomenos, he proceeded by Tegyrai along the foot of the mountains, which was the only passable way, as the waters of the Melas completely covered the plain. This river no sooner rises than it stagnates in swamps, which render the lower roads impracticable. The more distant mountains, whose winter torrents are discharged into the Cephissos, and ultimately into the lake, are Oeta, Knemis, Messapios, and Kerykios. Pliny 2 and Theophrastus 3 inform us, that there were floating islands in the lake. The latter mentions some places which were in the vicinity of Orchomenos, and which are at present unknown. Speaking of the reeds of the lake, he says, that the greater quantity grew at a place (tottos) between the Cephissos and Melas, called ireXeycctviu, near which were some deep parts of the lake, called x^F 01 '• ne next mentions a river called IIpoGxTix, and says, that the finest reeds were 1 Life of Pelopidas. s Nat. Hist. b. 16. c. 3G. s Hist. Plantar, b. 4. c. 13, 2 H 2 236 LAKE KOPAIS. found at O^eia, K«/Mn?, which was at the mouth of the Cephissos, near which there was a fertile plain called imrtu. To the north of Oxeia Kampe was a place called Bodice. It is difficult to know whether Theophrastus, by the word two?, alluded to towns or villages, or merely to parts of the plain, which bore the names in question. Pliny 1 mentions six kinds of Orchomenian calami ; the characia, the plotia, the auleticon, the donax, the zeugita?, and bombyciae, which are the x u ? XKlx Si vrhoKipoz, o^Aijt/ko?, $ovx£, fyvyirw, and £op{2vxiccg of Theophrastus. During the more prosperous days of Greece, when the arts flourished, and opulence was generally diffused, this vale must have been strikingly interesting, by the assemblage of natural and arti- ficial beauties which it displayed. Surrounded by sublime moun- tains or varied hills, and fertilized by numerous streams, it was then adorned by wealthy cities and independent communities, where admiration was excited, or piety kindled, by the sight of accumu- lated temples ; of groves and fountains, animated by a multiplicity of presiding deities ; of caverns where oracles were delivered, or the mysteries of futurity developed ; and where all the embellish- ments of a fanciful, but elegant superstition, were scattered over the enchanted ground. The plain is closed, towards Phocis, by Parnassos ; and the chain which, branching from it towards Libethrion and Helicon, is ornamented with the ruins of Daulis, Panopeus, Anemoria, 2 or Hyampolis, Chaeroneia, and Lebadeia. Further to the s. e. to- wards the body of Helicon, are the remains of Tilphousion, Koro- neia, Alalkomenai, and Haliartos. Helicon separates the plain from that of Thcspeia. Mount Tilphousion and Mount Phoinikios 3 join the foot of Helicon ; and the latter divides the plain of Kopais from that of Thebes. At the western foot of Phoinikios are the ruins of 1 Nat. Hist. b. 16. c. 3f>. 2 Or Anemoleia. 3 Called Qixiov by Hesiod and Plutarch, "Zywiiov by Lykopbron, "Z.fiyywy by Palsephatns, butiov by Apollodoius, •Puimi.-ioc by Strabo, and the Mountain of the Sphinx by Pausunias. LAKE KOPAIS. 237 Onchestos and Med eon : this mountain, towards the north, joins the three-topped Ptoon, which separates the lakes Kopais and Hylika. The ruins of Akraiphnion 1 are on Mount Ptoon, at the base of which are the remains of the insular city of Kopai. To this joins Mount Kyrtonon, 2 which, with the northern range of Ptoon, closes in the plain from the vale of Opous, and the sea of Euboea, and is now called Talanda, having at its eastern base an episcopal city of the same name. Next come the bare and craggy hills of Akontios, Laphystios, Thurion, Edylion, Daulios, Hyphanteion, and Katopterios ; all dif- ferent names given to parts of the same chain on which were situ- ated the towns of Orchomenos, Aspledon, and Parapotamioi ; and which separate it from the plain of Elateia and Chaeroneia. Besides the above-mentioned towns, there were several others on the plain, whose precise situations are unknown : some of these have probably been entirely destroyed by inundations, particularly Assia, Ila, Okalea, Athens, and Eleusis. 3 The eels of this lake are as much celebrated at present as they were in the time of the ancients ; they grow to a very large size, and after being salted and pickled, are sent as delicacies to various parts of Greece. They are noticed by Aristophanes,* Pausanias, 5 and others. Julius Pollux 6 enumerates them amongst the good things of which the ancients were fond ; and Athenaeus 7 says, that they were used in the sacrifices of the Boeotians. Pliny 8 affirms that the lake generally rose above its usual level once every ninth year. After the deluge of Deucalion, nature and art seem to have combined the means of obviating the calamities 1 Herodotus calls it Akraiphia, and Strabo Akraiphion. - Upon this mountain Pausanias mentions the three small towns of Kurtones, Korseia, and Ihettos, b. 9. c. 24. 5 Pausan. b. 9. c. 24. * Acharn. v. 880, &c. and Lysistrat. v. 36. 5 B. 9. c. £4. 6 B. 6. c. 10. Seg. 63. * Deipnosoph. b. 7. c. 13. B Nat. Hist. b. 16. c. 36. 238 THE KATABATIIRA, OR EMISSARIES OF THE LAKE. occasioned by the inundation of the lake. I allude to the subterra- neous passages in Mount Ptoon, through which the superfluous wa- ters of Kopais are discharged into the lake of Hyla, and into the Eriiboean sea. Strabo calls them x a(r r u * TCC an< ^ wrovop.au Pausanias also names them x eco> r iaTa - > ^ e ca ^ s tna t °f t ^ ie ^ a ^ e °f Pheneos QctpccQpov, and those of Stymphalos QepeSpa, and affirms, that the Arca- dians call them Zepefy* : be names that of the Asterion, near Mycenae, (posoayi; .- 1 Aristotle 2 terms these outlets 1aL 1 Onomast. b. 4. c. 19. seg. 143. 2 I 2 244 VILLAGE OF GRANITZA. In the Athenian Acropolis there was anciently a statue of Apollo, 1 named Parnopios, because he delivered the country from locusts (na£ci/07T£?). Strabo 2 says that the Oitaians honoured Hercules under the name of Kornopion, because he delivered them from locusts, which the Greeks generally called parnopes though the Oitaians called them kornopes. The monument of Romaiko may allude to this circumstance. On the north side of the Cephissos is the village of Beli, situated on a hill. Near the river we passed a village called Gephyra, 3 and as this is the ancient word for bridge, there was pro- bably one over the river at this place, of which no vestige can now be discerned. As we approached a chain of hills, perhaps Thurion, our attention was attracted by some ruins on a pointed acclivity, when the hope of finding some interesting remains induced us to ride to the top. We were however but ill repaid for the difficulty of the ascent, and the loss of time which it occasioned, as the ruins were modern, consisting only of a square tower, a single ancient block of stone, and two tumuli. On reaching the suburbs of Libadea, 4 we left the town to the right, and attracted by a village, and a monastery called Granitza, we proceeded up a bare and rocky hill, where it was said that some ruins would be found. We spent one hour in continual climbing, from Libadea ; and we here again lost our time, as not a vestige of anti- quity was to be seen : the monastery overlooks a deep and uneven valley, which separates the mountain of Libadea from Helicon. 1 Pausan. b. 1. c. 24. * B. 13. p. 613. 3 Pronounced Ufeer — reQvpa. 4 Dicjearchus Stat. Graec. says it is only two stadia from Oichomenos to Lebadeia. This must be an error in the text, for which I should propose to substitute twenty-two. HOT SPRINGS ON HELICON. 245 TO EREMO-KASTRO, THESPEIA. On the 20th of March we quitted our hospitable landlord at Liba- dea, and in an hour reached a small village called Rhakes ; where are the remains of an ancient square tower, of regular construction, composed of large stones. The middle space of the wall is three feet and a half in thickness, consisting of a hard mass of small stones and cement, lined on each side with large blocks ; the whole Avail form- ing a thickness of eight feet and a half. No other traces of antiquity are visible at this place ; and as its situation corresponds with no ancient town mentioned by Strabo or Pausanias, it was probably one of the ifitotovffieti or single-towered forts, 1 built to guard the pass ; for on one side rises a steep mountain, and on the other the plain of Kopais appears in its full extent. Continuing our way , we passed to the right of the village of Ka- mari, which is situated at the foot of the mountains. It takes its name from some modern arches, on which is an aqueduct, which car- ries water from the neighbouring hills to turn a mill. A hot stream, which emits a thick smoke, and is divided into several small branches, falls from the rocks in this spot : when crossing the road, it enters the plain Kopais. Its original source is about five miles from Kamari, on Mount Helicon, near a church of St. John. In the vicinity of the mill a cold spring mingles its waters with the hot, and they enter the plain in one stream. I do not know any ancient author or modern tra- veller by whom they are noticed. About three hours from Libadea we saw a tower called Borniaros, 1 See Procop. de iEdific. b. 4. c. 5. p. 79. Paris edit. 246 RIVERS NEAR LAKE KOPAIS. situated on a rock near a mile to the right ; higher up the side of Heli- con is discerned the village of Kotoumoula. We crossed a bridge of one arch, over a small river called Pogia, which comes from Helicon and enters the lake ; but it is dry in summer. I passed it in July, 1801, when no stream was to be seen : it is perhaps the Permessos, 1 which, according to Strabo, 2 enters the lake not far from Haliartos, after uniting with the Olmeios. A little further on is another stream, which runs in the same direction towards the lake, and may be the Olmeios. We next came to a steep acclivity rising abruptly from the plain on the right. A copious fountain issuing from it, forms a stream which glides into the lake. There is considerable difficulty in determin- ing the name of this place. It must be either Tilphousa, or Libe- thrias, 3 or Petra. Strabo tells us that Fount Tilphossa is under Mount Tilphosion, near Haliartos and Alalkomenai ; that the monu- ment of Tiresias, and the temple of the Tilphossian Apollo, and the town Tilphousion are also near it. Plutarch 4 mentions the Fount KifTusa at Haliartos, in which Bacchus was washed at his birth, the water having the colour of wine. As he is the only author who no- tices this fountain, it may be a mistake for Tilphousa. He says it is at Haliartos ; but he probably means that it is in the Haliartian territory, and not at the town itself. Pausanias sa} r s the fountain is fifty stadia from the town ; that the tomb 5 of Tiresias is near it ; and that the goddesses called Praxidikai had a temple near Mount Til- phousion. Some ancient traces are seen near the fountain, which is not unlikely to be that of Libethrias or Petra. This, according to Pausanias, was forty stadia from Koroneia. 1 For the different readings of this word, see Khunius' note in Pausan. b. 9. c. 29- 5 B. 9. p. 407. 3 The mountain was named Libethrion, and the Fount Libethrias. Pausan. b. 9. c. 34. 4 Life of Lysander. 5 B. 9. c. 33. Tatpoc. it is M^a in Strabo. These words were sometimes synonymous. REMAINS OF KORONE1A. 247 This distance nearly corresponds with the ruins of a town which are seen on a hill to the right, soon after passing the rock and foun- tain, and which is probably Koroneia, situated at the extremity of the retiring plain, in which was a temple of Minerva, near the river Kouarios, where the Pambceotian festivals were held, consisting in singing and dancing. 1 According to Strabo, Koroneia was situated on a height near Helicon. We proceeded, crossed a stream formed by the fountain, and in forty minutes came to some ancient foundations, and blocks of stone ; apparently the remains of a temple. This spot is called Agia Pareskebi, and is situated at the foot of a rocky hill, about twelve miles from Libadea : it is probably the temple of the Tilphossian Apollo, or that of the Praxidikai. Having passed this rock the plain recedes, and forms a gulph to the right ; and a ruined tower, with a village called Rastamitis, are con- spicuously seen upon the hills. This was probably near the site of Koroneia. Although this was a place of importance, its coins are extremely rare. I indeed know but one which is attributed to this town. It is a silver hemidrachma, with the Boeotian shield on one side, and on the other a full-faced mask, or Gorgonian head, with the protuded tongue, in an indented square ; inscrip. KOPO. 2 According to Pausanias 3 Koroneia was founded by Koronos, bro- ther of Haliartos, and son of Thersander. We crossed a stream issuing from Helicon, probably the Kouarios : a heap of large blocks, and some foundations, which are near its banks, indicate perhaps the temple of Minerva, where some of the fugitives, who had been conquered by Agesilaos, 4 sought protection in the sanctuary; the Pambceotise were celebrated in this temple. 1 Polyb. Hist. b. 4. Strabo, b. 9. p. 411. * In the collection of Mr. Burgon. 3 B. 9. c. 34. * Corn. Nepos. Life of Agesilaos. 248 RIVER LOPHIS, RUINS OF HALIARTOS. In the vicinity the Spartan king defeated the combined forces of the Athenians, Boeotians, Argives, Corinthians, Locrians, and Euboeans, in the year 394, b. c. The surrounding country abounds in corn and cotton ; the pas- tures are rich, and feed numerous flocks of black and white sheep, with curly fleeces. About an hour from Pareskebi we arrived at a tumulus, some se- pulchral urns or sarcophagi, and many scattered blocks of stone. In this spot several small streams issue from the ground, and uniting their waters, enter the lake at the foot of the Haliartian Acropolis. These streams correspond so perfectly with the description which Pausanias 1 gives of the Lophis, that there can be no doubt of its being the same, and that the neighbouring ruins constitute the re- mains of Haliartos. — " As the want of water produced great distress in the country near Haliartos, one of the inhabitants went to Delphi to consult the oracle. The Pythia ordered him to kill the first man he met in approaching Haliartos ; and having met Lophis, son of Par- thenomene, he stabbed him. The boy ran for some distance from the spot ; and wherever his blood dropped, water issued from the ground and formed the river." Plutarch 2 mentions the streams Oplites and Philarios, near Hali- artos. The remains of Haliartos are situated about fifteen miles from Libadea, and at nearly an equal distance from Thebes. The place is now called Mikrokoura. The Acropolis occupies a low and oblong hill : one side of which rises from a fine pastural plain ; s the other from the marshes, where the canes grew, with which the ancients made darts and musical pipes. Strabo 4 calls the 1 B.9. c. 33. * LifeofLvsander. 3 Homer, Iliad. 2. v. 503. lloir,iv& AXiaprov. * B. 9. p. 407- RUINS OF HALIARTOS. 249 latter uvXyrtKog xaXa^o?. Plutarch 1 calls them Cretan canes. It ap- pears, from Pausanias, 2 that Haliartos, which was founded by the brother of Koronos, and son of Thersander, is not of such high antiquity as Orchomenos. Strabo 3 mentions it as no longer existing in his time; though Pausanias describes its temples and public edifices. Most of the walls which remain, are probably posterior to the time of Homer, but prior to its capture by the Romans, in the war against Perseus of Macedon ; though Livy, 4 who resembles Diodorus Sicu- lus and Strabo. in levelling cities, says that it is " Urbs diruta a fundamentis." It was a place of considerable, importance ; and next to Thebes, the strongest of the Boeotian cities ; and even after Ly- sander had captured Lebadeia and Orchomenos, he hesitated to attack the imposing strength of Haliartos. It was destroyed by the troops of Xerxes ; and was probably rebuilt by Alexander, or about that period ; the gi-eater part of the Avails being in the style of that part of Plataea, which was restored by the Macedonian conqueror. There are also a few remains of the second and third styles of masonry. At the foot of the Acropolis are some sepulchral kruptai cut in the rock, similar to those at Delphi ; here are also two ruined churches, composed of the materials of ancient buildings, and some fragmented inscriptions perfectly illegible, and covered with the geographical lichen, the growth of which is promoted by the moisture of the neighbouring marshes. Amongst the ruins are several four-sided altars of stone, with but little ornament, and without any inscrip- tions. They are common in Greece, and have nothing which denotes the name of the deity to whom they were dedicated ; they are the Bupoi tt.vwvfjt.ot, the uninscribed or nameless altars mentioned by Dio- genes Laertius. 5 1 Life of Lysander, and of Sylla. t B. 9. c. 34. 5 Wiapror & vvv ovkcti tori. b. 9. p. 41 1. 4 B. 42. C. 4G. 5 13. 1. Segni. 110. Epeniin. VOL. I. 2 K 250 RUINS OF HAL1ARTOS. The ruins of the city are in the plain, and although no building is left entire, there are several fine foundations, and large blocks scat- tered about in different directions. A single column is standing ; apparently a work of the lower ages, as it is composed of small stones and mortar. Near it is the marble cover of a sarcophagus, and several fine blocks of stone, and architectural fragments, which appear at first to have constituted a temple, and afterwards a church. At the entrance of the city, on that side which faces Libadea, are seen the sarcophagi, and the tumulus above-mentioned, which must have contained the remains of illustrious persons. Plutarch 1 mentions the tomb 2 of Rhadamanthos, and the monument 3 of Alcmena at Ha- liartos. He says that the latter was destroyed by the overflowing of the lake. Pausanias 4 mentions the heroic monument 5 of Pandion ; but without ascending to the heroic ages, it is proper to notice an appa- rent contradiction between the two last-mentioned authors. Plutarch tells us that the monument 6 of Lysander was beyond the confines of Boeotia, in the Panopean territory ; while Pausanias 7 places it 8 at Haliartos. After the death 9 of Lysander, Pausanias, the Spartan king, obtained permission from the Haliartians to inter the dead ; with the condition that the Spartans should immediately retire from Boeotia. Though the common soldiers were probably buried hastily in the field of battle, yet the remains of their warlike and admired chief, who even when living was revered as a divinity, 10 merited honours, which could not easily be performed on the scene of his recent defeat ; nor is it likely that the Spartans would willingly leave the Haliartians such an impressive monument of their important victory. It is also more probable that Plutarch, who was a Boeo- tian, living only a few miles 11 from the scene of action, and writing I Life of Lysander. * rafog. 3 fivrjfiuov. * B. 9. c. S2. 5 tjpuov. 6 fittf/tuov. 7 B. 9- C. 32. 8 firrifia. '•' 394 years before Christ. 10 Altars were raised to him during his life-time, and sacrifices offered to him as to a god. II At Chteroneia. RUINS OF HALIARTOS. 251 professedly the history of Lysander, was better informed upon the subject than Pausanias, by whom it is only incidentally men- tioned among the transient notices of his tour. These apparent contradictions however may be reconciled. The Haliartians pro- bably, to commemorate their victory, raised a monument on the spot where Lysander fell, as the Argians did on a similar occasion, on the site where Pyrrhus was killed, though his remains were buried in another situation. 1 There may have been a monument of Lysander in two places, but his remains were probably deposited near Panopeus. The pvyftoi, (jLVYiptw , gocyx.og, — That's well, the Turk is going, and the Frank is coming. Thej r asked me if we eat meat on fast days ; and on my answering in the affirmative, said to each other, What a pit}- — were it not for that, they would be Christians ! The violation of the fast is one of the greatest crimes amongst the 1 It is necessary to put future travellers upon their guard against the geography of Meletius. which is a mass of errors, and whoever follows him will be led into a maze of confusion ; par- ticularly in the ancient names of places, and their relative distances. 2 B. 9. c. 29. 3 Opera etdies. * B. 9. c. 29. MOUNT HELICON. 257 Greeks; nor is there any people who observe their religious rites and ecclesiastical precepts with more rigid scrupulosity. The port of Thespeia, which was on the Corinthian gulph, was named Siphai. 1 TO KAKOSIA, THIS BE. On the 22d we quitted Eremo-Kastro, and descending into the plain, directed our course towards the northern foot of Helicon. In twenty minutes we arrived at the ruined church of St. Speridion, built with large blocks of stone, On the site of some ancient edifice, where we remarked a small sepulchral Cippus, elegantly ornamented with sculptured foliage. At the extremity of the plain, on the foot of Helicon, are some ruins at a place called Tateza, consisting of several large blocks of stone and foundations, an illegible inscription, and a clear spring of water ; probably fount Aganippe, which Pausanias had on his left in going from Thespeia to the forest of the Muses on Helicon. This spring gushes out of the ground, and forms a small stream, from which the Muses took their name of Aganippides. Here the vale contracts, and the way becomes dreary and bad. We crossed over a small branch of Helicon, and descended to the village Do- brena, situated in a fertile plain, where we found a monastery with some ancient fragments, and two short inscriptions of no interest or importance. Half a mile further is the village of Kakosia, where 1 Thucyd. b. 4. c. 76. VOL. I. 2 L 258 RUINS OF THISBE. we arrived in the evening. This is probably the ancient Thisbe; being situated, as Strabo 1 describes it, on the confines of the Thes- peians and Koroneians, at the foot of Helicon, which rises to the north. Pausanias 2 says it is between two mountains which are sepa- rated by a plain, one of the mountains being near the sea, the other near Thisbe. The former is probably the same which is now called Koromili, a high and barren mass of rock that forms a con- spicuous object at a great distance, and at the foot of which is the port of Kakosia, called Plaka, about three miles from the village. Pausanias says, that the land about Thisbe would be overflowed like a marsh, if the waters were not confined by means of a strong bank. 3 These indications are sufficient to decide that Kakosia is the ancient Thisbe; the bank remains, and extends as far as Dobrena; it is on the side of a hollow, which, at the time of my visit, was full of water. The ancient walls of Thisbe are situated on the edge of a steep rock, of a moderate height and oblong form, which rises from a rich agricultural plain ; on this rock was the Thisbe of Homer ; 4 still abounding with incredible numbers of wild pigeons, which build their nests in the neighbouring precipices. Some few remains of the Tirynthian style are still visible, but the walls have evi- dently been restored at different periods. The third style of con- struction is the most predominant. The walls are eight feet in thickness ; and the middle space, which is composed of small stones, is four. At the foot of the rock are several sepulchral chambers of the (nryXatov kind, cut in the solid mass; containing from one sarco- phagus to five, which are however all uncovered and empty. Near this place are several plain altars, similar to those at Thespeia and Haliartos, and a few inscriptions, none of which contain the name 1 B.