ANDY ROOKS OR A Pattern Maker's Handybook HaSL*U GK. Phi (;e 2 Crosby Lockwood Son pRflNKLiN Institute L^i^R^R^ Class. Book..K.E.7..^. Accession ? ^^-3.. Article V. — The Library shall be divided into two classes ; the first comprising such works as, from their rarity or value, should not be lent out, all unbound periodicals, and such text books as ought to be found in a library of reference except when required V)y Committees of the Institute, or by members or holders of second class stock, who have obtained the sanction of the Committee. The second class shall include those books intended for circulation. Ahtkm.e VI. — The Secretary shall have authority to loan to Members and to holders of second class stock, any work belonging to the second CLASS, suljject to the following regulations : Section 1. — No individual shall be permitted to have more than two books out at one time, without a written permission, signed by at least two members of the Library Committe ; nor shall a book be kept out more than two weeks ; but if no one has applied for it, the former bor- rower may renew the loan. Should any person have applied for it, the latter shall have the preference. Section 2. — A kixe op ten cents per week shall be exacted for the detention of a book beyond the limited time ; and if a book be not re- turned within three months it shall be deemed lost, and the borrower shall, in addition to his fines, forfeit its value. Section 3. — Should any book be returned injured, the borrower shall pay for the injury, or replace the book, as the Library Committee may direct ; and if one or more books, belonging to a set or sets, be lost, the borrower shall replace them or make full restitution. Article \'II. — Any person removing from the Hall, without permis- sion from the proper authorities, any book, newspaper or other property in charge of tlie Library Committee, shall be reported to the Committee, who may inflict any fine not exceeding twenty-five dollars. Article VI II. — No member or holder of' second class stock, whose annual contribution for the current year shall be unpaid or who is in arrears for fines, shall be entitled to the privileges of the Library or Reading Room. Article IX. — If any member or holder of second class stock, shall refuse or neglect to comply with the foregoing ruliis, it shall be the duty of the Secretary to report him to the Committee on tlie Library. Article X. — Any Member or holder of second class stock, detected in mutilating the newspapers, pamphlets or books belonging to the Insti- tute shall be deprived of his right of membership, and the name of the offender shall be made public. THE PATTEEN MAKEE'S HANDYBOOK. HANDYBOOKS FOR HANDICRAFTS. A Series of useful Volumes, each comprising about 144 pp., with numerous Illustrations, crown 8vo, cloth, price about 2s. THE METAL TURNER'S HANDYBOOK: A Practical Manual, for Workers at the Foot-Lathe, embracing Information on the Tools, Appliances and Processes employed in Metal Turning. By Paul N. Hasluck. With upwards of One Hundred Illustrations. 2s. [Now ready. THE WOOD TURNER'S HANDYBOOK: A Practical Manual, for Workers at the Lathe, embracing Information on the Tools, Materials, Appliances and Processes employed in Wood Turning. By Paul N. Hasluck. With upwards of One Hundred Illustrations. 2S. {Now ready. THE WATCH JOBBER'S HANDYBOOK: A Practical Manual on Cleaning, Repairing and Adjusting, embracing Information on the Tools, Materials, Appliances and Processes employed in Watchwork. By Paul N.Hasluck. With upwards of One Hundred Illustrations. 2S. [Now ready. THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK: A Practical Manual, embracing Information on the Tools, Materials and Appliances employed in Constructing Patterns for Founders. By Paul N. Hasluck. With upwards of One Hundred Illustrations. 2S. [Now ready. *^* l7t preparation, uniform with the above. THE MECHANIC'S WORKSHOP HANDYBOOK: A Practical Manual, on Mechanical Manipulation, embracing Information on various Handi- craft Processes, Useful Notes, and Miscellaneous Memoranda. By Paul N, Hasluck. Comprising about Two Hundred Subjects. [Nearly ready. THE MODEL ENGINEER'S HANDYBOOK: A Practical Manual, embracing Information on the Tools, Materials, Appliances and Pro- cesses employed in Constructing Model Steam-Engines. By Paul N. Hasluck. With about One Hundred Illustrations. THE CABINET WORKER'S HANDYBOOK: A Practical Manual, embracing Information on the Tools, Materials, Appliances and Pro- cesses employed in Cabinet Work. By Paul N. Hasluck. With about One Hundred Illustrations. THE CLOCK JOBBER'S HANDYBOOK: A Practical Manual, em- bracing Information on the Tools, Materials, Appliances and Processes employed in Cleaning, Adjusting and Repairing Clocks. By Paul N. Hasluck. With about One Hundred Illustrations. LONDON : CROSBY LOCKWOOD AND SON, 7, Stationers' Hall Court, Ludgate Hill, E.G. THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. ON PATTEENS FOE FOUNDEES : EMBRACING INFORMATION ON THE TOOLS, MATERIALS AND APPLIANCES EMPLOYED IN THEIR CONSTRUCTION. BY PAUL N. HASLUCK, A.I.M.E. AUTHOK OF "lathe-work," " THE METAL TUKNER's HANDYBOOK," "THE AVOOD turner's HANDYBOOK," ETC. WITH UPWARDS OF ONE HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS. LONDON: OEOSBY LOCK WOOD AND SON, 7, STATIONERS' HALL COURT, LUDGATE HILL. 1887. \^All Mighfa Iteserved,^ Cd/\/S TS 1 8 ST Recently published, crown 8vo, 5s. cloth. LATHE WORK A Practical Treatise on the Tools, Appliances and Processes employed in the Art of Turning. By PAUL N. HASLUCK. El^trif (I5tittt0n, MebiSclf ants ©nlarflclr. With numerous Illustrations drawn by the Author. Opinions of the Press. " Written by a man who knows not only how work ought to be done, but who also knows how to do it, and how to convey his knowledge to others. To all turners this book would be valu- able.' ' — Engineering . " We can safely recommend the work to young engineers. To the amateur it will simply be invaluable. To the student it will convey a great deal of useful information." — Engineer. " A compact, succinct and handy guide to lathe-work did not exist in our language until Mr. Hasluck, by the publication of this treatise, gave the turner a true vade mecum."— House Decorator. CROSBY LOCKWOOD & SON, 7, Stationers' Hall Court, Ludgat§ ,1^111, London, E.G. PREFACE. — — This handybook is intended to afford some information on pattern making, and also some insight of the processes to which the patterns are to be subsequently subjected, as a knowledge of these is essential to enable a pattern maker to labour to the best advantage. The hterature of this subject is but scanty ; the cause may be that this intricate art is one that cannot be conveniently brought under well-defined rules. Almost every fresh pattern that is made requires some amount of independent thought from the artificer. This handybook is intended to be espe- cially useful to the beginner. The general information it contains, and the glossary of terms, may make it handy even to practised hands of wide experience. London, P. N. HASLUCK. July, 1887. CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGES I. Pattern Making i— 14 II. Moulding and Founding 15—29 III. Benches and Appliances 30—42 IV. Hand Tools 43—57 V. Machine Tools 58—71 VI. Turning, and Tools Used 72—86 VII. Lathe Chucks 87—96 VIII. Core Boxes and Pillow Block Patterns 97—106 IX. Circular Work 107— 117 X, Miscellaneous Work 118 — 123 XI. Terms Used in Moulding and Founding 124 — 140 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. FIG. PAGE ii 2 Sleekers i8 3f 4 Sleekers 19 5 Moulding Machine . . , . 21 6 Moulding Machine . . . . 22 7 German Bench 31 8 Bench 32 9 Bench Screw 33 10 Iron Bench Stop 34 11 Bench Vice 35 12 Hand Screws 36 13 Shooting and Mitre Board . . 37 14 Adjustable Mitre Planer . . . - 39 15 Steam Glue Oven 41 16 Tenon Saw . . 44 17 Dovetail Saw 44 18 Adjustable Circular Plane . . 46 19 Steel Jack Plane 48 20 Wooden Half-long Plane . . 48 21 Iron Smoothing Plane . . . . 49 22, 23 Core Box Plane .. ..51 24 Iron Block Plane 52 25 Combined Bull-nose & Block Plane 52 26 Bull-nose Plane 52 27 Adjustable Chamfer Plane . . 53 28 Iron Bull-nose Rabbet Plane . . 54 29 Draw Knife 54 30 Spoke-shave 55 31 Expansion Bit . . 56 32 Twist Drill 57 33 Face-plate Lathe 59 34 Lathe with Wood Frame . . 60 35 Lathe with Self-acting Motion .. 61 36 Planing Machine 62 37 Dimension-Sawing Machine . '. 63 38,39 Variety Wood-workingMachines 64 40 Chamfering ... 67 41 Rule, or Table Joint' 68 42 Panel 68 43i 44> 45 Checking and Gaining . . 69 46 Circular Saw 70 47 Scroll Saw . . . . "71 48 Cutting Angles of Tools ! 75 49 Turner's Gouge .. 77 FIG, 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67, 69 70 71 72 73 74 75. 77 78, 81 82, 85 85 87 PAGE Half-inch Gouge . . Grinding a Gouge . . Quarter-inch Gouge Three-quarter-inch Chisel Hook Tool Parting Tool Prong Prong Chuck Conical Screw Chuck . . Screw Tool for Thread on Cone Barrel Chuck Chuck for Discs . . Modified Conical Screw Chuck Core Box and Round Core Core Box and Square Core Model for Core Box Peculiar Core Box 68 Pillow Block . . Pattern for Pillow Block Core Box for Cap Bolts Oval Core Box Pattern for Cap Lined Pillow Block Pillow Block 76 Sections of Core Box Cored Pillow Block 79, 80 Core Boxes Pillow Block 83, 84 Pillow Block Core Box Cap for Pillow Block Section of Bearing A Segment . . Built Circular Plate Built Ring .. 92 Tongue and Groove Joints 94, 95 Three-part Check Joint 97, 98 Four-part Check Joint . Wood Angling 118 Composition Angling .. ..119 102, 103 Half-check Joints 120, 121 105 Dovetail Check Joint .. 121 107 Mitre Joints 122 103, 104 Just published, waistcoat-pocket size, price is., post free. SCREW THREADS: AND METHODS OF PRODUCING THEM. WITH NUMEROUS TABLES AND COMPLETE DIRECTIONS FOR USING SCREW-CUTTING LATHES. By PAUL N. HASLUCK, Author of "Lathe- Work," " The Metal Turner's Handybook," &c. WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. Opinions of the Press. " Full of useful information, hints and practical criticism. May be heartily recommended." — Mechanical World. " A useful compendium, in which the subject is exhaustively dealt with." — Iron. CROSBY LOCKWOOD & SON, 7, Stationers' Hall Court, Ludgate Hill, London, E.C. THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. ^^HE patterns on which this handbook treats are those l^^t ^sed for forming the moulds in which metal castings are made. Any mechanic may find it necessary to make a pattern, some time or other, to replace a broken casting or to carry out his own ideas when pattern makers are not get-at-able for odd jobs in busy times. Pattern making is of endless variety. In this business a piece of work may be turned out to-day, the like of which was never before seen nor imagined, and which may never be required again. It is an art which takes in all manner of shapes and sizes. A good pattern maker is always learning, and he must think for himself to supply the demands that are constantly being made upon his ingenuity by new forms and fresh devices. To take any pattern, and explain its construction would be of little advantage, because of the dissimilitude of forms which have to be dealt with. However, there are certain operations or processes, not very numerous, which the pattern maker has at command, adapted to the peculiarities of the material in which he works. All patterns are alike in that they are the result of these processes : and, however diversified their forms, CHAPTER I. PATTERN MAKING. B 2 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. they are with rare exceptions, but different combinations of straight lines and circles. Patterns are mostly made of wood, although brass and iron are also common, especially when large numbers are required. A pattern nearly always represents the appearance and dimen- sions of the casting as far as its external surface is concerned. This is also frequently true of its internal surface, but not invariably so, dry-sand cores made apart from the pattern being often introduced to form the cavities and internal spaces re- quired. Patterns are sometimes made in two or more pieces fastened together by pins or dowels, the object being to facili- tate their removal from the sand. For the larger and heavier class of metal patterns, cast-iron is used as they are not often fitted up with gates in a board or spray. It is difficult to join iron patterns to gates, as they will not easily solder, and therefore require to be lapped and riveted together. A white metal consisting of two parts lead and one of tin is very generally used and is very easy to work. For brassfounders a mixture of copper and tin is considered the best. When making patterns for the foundry it is necessary to bear in mind the process of moulding, otherwise it is very probable that patterns will be turned out which cannot be manipulated in the sand. In the second chapter will be found a brief sketch of the process of moulding. The tyro should follow directions as nearly as possible, and so reduce the possibilities of error to a minimum. Castings shrink on cooling, so that patterns ought to be made slightly larger than the rough casting is wanted to be ; but in small work the shrinkage is practically inappreciable. The size and shape of a small casting is far more likely to be altered and distorted by being knocked about in the mould, when loosening it from the sand. VARIOUS PATTERNS. 3 All those parts which in the casting have to be smoothed up by turning or filing must be left stout enough to bear the reduc- tion, and this must be specially adhered to when making patterns of thin things which require smoothing on both sides. The cost price of a little extra metal is nothing compared with the absolute necessity of having a sound casting ; and it is a pity that this fact is often forgotten. The thirty-second part of an inch makes all the difference between useful and useless castings of small model engines, if the thickness is increased or diminished by that small amount. It is very easy to remove a surplus thirty-second or sixty-fourth of an inch of metal from the casting, should it be requisite. All patterns should have a little clearance to facilitate their removal from the sand. In order to effect this, see that the angles are all a trifle obtuse; on no account may they be under-cut. After being turned, patterns are all the better for being smoothed over with fine glass-paper, and afterwards varnished with shellac varnish, or brown hard varnish, into which a little colouring pigment has been put, to give them a workmanlike appearance; Any hard wood will do for making patterns, which must be smoothly finished and varnished, so as to insure good castings. Rough patterns destroy the moulds, and useless castings generally result ; an extra half-hour judiciously spent in per- fecting the patterns will often save half a day's extra work in fitting up the castings. Wood for patterns is best when suitably seasoned, and time is the best seasoner ; so use that which is aged. Nearly all kinds •of wood are used in making patterns. Large, long and flat pat- terns are constructed of white or yellow pine, on account of its lightness, cheapness and freedom from warping and splitting but it has the disadvantage of being soft, and so liable to receive injury when made up. Choice Canadian red pine is harder. 4 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. but should be selected as free from knots and turpentine as possible. Still harder is white American fir, or spruce, which is very suitable for large patterns. Teak is light, strong and durable, also easily worked, but it wears the tools a little, and is somewhat liable to split. Any part of a pattern which has to be turned may be made of beech ; which has an uniform grain. Plenty of elm, oak, maple and sycamore is also used. In choosing material for a pattern we must consider its quality to keep its shape when formed ; its strength to with- stand the strains of rapping, and the general usage of a foundry and its ease of manipulation and its cheapness. Deal and pine are generally chosen as filling these condi- tions the best for general work ; but where extra strength is required, owing to the delicacy of the pattern, or the great number of castings required of it, either mahogany or cherry is chosen. In small standard patterns, iron or brass is used, first making a pattern of pine. Small, stiff patterns are best made of brass, and also their gates, because the surface keeps smoother than that of iron, and the joints are easily soldered. In selecting wood for patterns it requires to be straight- grained, well-seasoned and free from knots or shakes. Choose the soft, yellow, close-grained and light wood, slightly resinous, rather than the dry, hard, nut-brown fibre, with the grain strongly defined. The former withstapds the action of the temperature and moisture of the atmosphere better than the latter, and so is less liable to warp or change its out- line. Yellow pine is particularly suitable for pattern making, it is a North American tree, and grows in immense numbers in the region from Virginia to Canada. In the valleys and near the banks of rivers, where the soil is rich and soft, the tree reaches its grandest proportions, growing often to a height of WOOD FOR PATTERNS. 5 from 170 feet to 180 feet, and from 4 feet to 5 feet diameter at the base. The trunk of this tree tapers but slightly, and is entirely free from limbs or branches for over two-thirds of its length. Though we call this wood American yellow pine, it is called by the Americans themselves white pine, not ^o much from the colour of the wood as the colour of the bark. It is known also amongst us as Weymouth pine, from the fact of Lord Weymouth having, in the last century, planted large numbers of these trees in Wiltshire. The utility of the wood in the hands of the pattern maker is that which concerns us most. This pine was introduced into this country as an article of ■ commerce early in the present century, and has now taken the place of Baltic timber, once used for the same purposes. An examination of the interior of pieces of furniture made pre- viously to the above date will show the wood to be what is now called white or red pine, a wood full of resin and small hard knots. A large proportion of the wood of that period is ■ called Memel, being shipped from a port in the Baltic of that ■name. It is to be noted that almost all woods imported into this country, whether American or European, are known by the ports from which they are shipped. How different, and how much more pleasant is the task of the modern wood worker with the clean, straight, soft, easily-wrought yellow pine, to that of the workmen of sixty or seventy years ago, who had to contend against a hard, reedy, knotty, resinous wood, in narrow widths that required numerous joinings, and was ever twisting and shrinking. The house joiner was no better off, as may be seen by examining an old house, where the floors and finishing are of the red pine, or Memel, in narrow widths and having innumerable knots. Our principal supply of yellow pine has for a number of years been from St. John, New Brunswick, though much valuable timber is shipped from other 6 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. ports. Some is shipped in the form of squared logs, and is cut up into boards after reaching this country. Very much yellow pine is now imported in the form of deals, these being sawn, before embarkation, into deals or planks of from seven inches to twenty-four inches broad and three inches thick, and usually from twelve feet to twenty feet long. The quality of the timber is more easily discernible, and they are picked and classed as firsts, seconds, thirds, etc. They are sawn at the mills into boards of the various thicknesses, to suit the require- ments of trade, from one-eighth of an inch upwards. Experiments show that felled wood when green contains about 45 per cent of its weight in moisture. Timber felled in winter holds at the end of the following summer more than 40 per cent of water. Wood kept for several years in a dry place, retains from 15 to 20 per cent of water. Wood that has been thoroughly kiln-dried will, when exposed to the air^ under ordinary circumstances, absorb five per cent, of water in the first three days, and will continue to absorb until it reaches from 14 to 15 per cent., the amount fluctuating above or below this according to the state of the atmosphere. It will be evident from the above statements that wood, how- ever dry, is still subject to change, and that even if kiln- dried, it requires to be stacked in a dry place until it settles to the natural conditions of seasoned wood. To season timber for pattern work, it should be stacked where it will receive a free circulation of air, and have an ex- temporised roof to protect it from the sun and rain. Four years are requisite to season wood sufficiently to be fit for general pattern work. A careful pattern maker will generally have for special and particular work a store of wood, twenty to thirty years old, in good preservation, and which had perhaps been previously used in an old pattern or building. Straight-grained pine will not shrink end-wise perceptibly. SHRINKAGE AND WARPAGE. 7 but across the grain it is always liable, however dry, to swell and to shrink according to the humidity of the atmosphere. For this reason wood should not be glued together with the grain of one piece crossways to the other. The sap wood, or outer part of the tree, will shrink more than the heart, hence a whole tree will always split in drying. From this it is evident that particular attention is necessary to the choice of boards for certain work, and in gluing together, so that strains be equalised, and so tend to keep the structure in better shape. In gluing up a solid block, for instance, by placing the boards with the heart side of the wood on the outside, the pores on the sap side are by this means protected and the tendency of the exposed joint is to keep closed, thus counteracting the strains. There is another difficulty in this condition of contraction, which relates to the curving of the wood lengthwise. When the grain is not perfectly straight — that is, if the tree is crooked, and a straight board is sawn from it — one part of the board will have more heart wood than the other. The sap part will contract more than the heart, and, as a result draw the board crooked lengthwise. This curly and cross-grained board is the wood we hear of that contracts endwise. In constructing patterns, the fact should always be taken into account that wood, however dry, is subject to this change to some extent. Well-seasoned wood varies at the rate of one- tenth of an inch to the foot in width between the temperature of the pattern shop and that of the foundry. Patterns that have been correct the first day of casting may become too large subsequently. Not considering this point in the construction of a pattern, and neglecting to make proper allowance, is a common source of great trouble and bad work. Too much importance cannot be laid upon this consideration, as it arises in almost every description of pattern that is made. 8 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. The best, cheapest and most effective way to meet this difficulty is by a framed construction using the wood length- wise of the grain to keep the essential sizes or outline of the pattern, and leaving open joints so as to allow the wood free- dom to expand or contract across the grain, and yet not effect the essential sizes. Take a piece of wood twelve inches square and an inch thick, to illustrate this principle. Cut oft a piece from a planed board of that thickness, and this will not keep even-flat unless a batten is put across it. When this has been done, it will keep twelve inches I'ong, but not twelve inches wide: it may not take a week to get to eleven and seven-eighths of an inch. The batten will keep it flat; but will not be able to resist the force with which it will shrink. If it be desired that it should keep to size, recourse must be had to panelling, which is managed as follows :— Take four pieces one inch thick, about one-and- a-half inch wide, and twelve inches long, with ends cut to a mitre. Plough a groove on the inside of each piece. These four pieces, when joined, will form a frame. A filling for the centre must now be got out and tongued to fit the grooves it is to be put in, before the last piece of the frame is fixed in its place. In large work, the panel, or centre filling, is made up of several pieces, so that the whole shrinkage is divided among them ; otherwise the panel may shrink quite out of the grooves. For small patterns the Germans use cherry-tree wood, well-seasoned, which is hard and close-grained ; but in England mahogany (chiefly baywood) comes into use for all small work. In fact it Mall suit nearly all patterns ; it warps less than any other wood, and shrinks very little in drying. It can be worked at the ends easily, and its corners keep sharp when worked with good sharp tools. To be a competent pattern maker a knowledge of practical plane and solid geometry and also of mechanical drawing are COMPARATIVE COST OF PATTERNS. 9 required as much as, and perhaps more than, by the draughts- man, as the former is required to lay upon an uneven surface lines which are much more easily got upon flat paper. A know- ledge of the nature of woods, or other materials used is neces- sary, and the pattern maker must be able to construct, with accuracy, any conceivable shape of body, so that it will stand the strains of the work required, and keep its size. He must understand how it can best be moulded, as he is required to decide how much of a pattern is necessary, where to make the parting, the taper, the prints, the cores, &c., and to make loose pieces accordingly. A skilful pattern maker helps the moulder to make the mould that is necessary for the required casting ; therefore the capacity of the moulder and his appliances must be known. Some moulds can be made cheaper without a pattern by the use of strikes ; others with a combination of strikes and parts of patterns ; others with cores ; while others require a full pattern of the size and shape of casting required, with allowance for shrinkage. Thus a casting may be made to cost more in the pattern making, and less in the moulding, or more in the moulding, and less in the pattern making, according to which method would do the work cheapest. The probable number of cast- ings required is a first consideration in the construction of a pattern and the finish required. If twenty castings be required from one pattern, and one hour's more work on the pattern would save the moulder five minutes on each mould, there would be an economy of forty minutes saved by the extra hour spent in pattern work. If but one casting were to be made, and one hour's extra work were still put upon the pattern, there would be a loss of fifty-five minutes, seeing that the moulder was saved but five minutes' work. After the pattern-maker has considered the requirements of lo THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. the moulder, he must think of the casting in the machine shop, and consider the shrinkage, the finish, and the parts that require to be most sound. Bearing all this in mind, he must make his pattern accordingly. A wide range of thought,, skill and experience are necessary for efficient pattern making. Cast iron, in common with nearly all other metals, contracts in cooling from the molten state in which it enters the mould. Patterns have, therefore, to be made larger by this amount than the castings are intended to be. In order to always make this allowance, the pattern maker uses a rule, which, though called a foot-rule is actually about twelve and an eighth inches long. Such a rule should never be applied to a drawing, for then the necessary allowance would not be made, mistakes may be sometimes made through doing this. Some men are opposed to shrinkage-rules, and have some reason ; because it is a fact that different kinds of iron do not contract the same amount ; that hard, or white iron, will con- tract more and scrap iron less than soft grey iron. Another point is that heavy, massive castings will strain the mould to such an extent as to almost nullify the shrinkage. For machine castings a shrinkage of one-tenth of an inch per foot is nearer the truth than one-eighth of an inch. By comparing many long columns, pipes, &c., with their patterns, it was found always that one-tenth of an inch was enough, and sometimes more than enough. But close observation also showed that the length of a ten-feet or twelve-feet column could not be depended upon within a quarter of an inch, it frequently happened that two columns cast from the same pattern would vary that amount in their lengths. Shrinkage is not allowed on measurements of four inches and under, as the rapping of the pattern will enlarge the mould enough. Broad, heavy castings, usually turn out thicker than their patterns ; one and fifteen-sixteenths of an inch of pattern ALLOWANCE FOR SHRINKAGE. II will give two inches thickness of casting ; and two and seven- eighths of an inch pattern will appear as three inches in casting. For the parts of a casting that are to be finished, allowance must be made in the pattern of the amount necessary to true it up, which depends upon the liability of imperfection in the shape of the casting. It must also be so moulded that the metal shall be clean and sound in the places to be finished. To this end such parts should be arranged to be cast down, or in the position in the mould where the metal receives the greatest pressure first, thus floating the impurities in the metal away from these parts. When the whole surface of a casting is finished, extra finish is allowed on the top side of the mould and the rest is left to the moulder, who uses skimming gates and an extra clean mould, and sometimes a rising head, thus adding a pressure of feed to the precaution of cleanliness. The allowance that should be made for shrinkage of castings when cooling, and for finishing them, are of the first import- ance, because they are questions that arise with reference to almost every pattern or casting made. The adoption of a contraction-rule seems to dispose of the question of shrinkage in the minds of most pattern makers, and when in certain cases the allowance does not prove correct, they will still stand behind their rule, considering themselves responsible no further. All patterns larger than three or four inches should be mea- sured with a contraction-rule, now purchasable, and made in steel as well as wood. The contraction foot-rule is about the eighth of an inch longer than the standard foot ; but still more than this must be allowed in a wood pattern, if the casting is intended for an iron pattern, say for a blank to be turned up; in this case judgment must be exercised. A good pattern maker is conspicuous chiefly in the ability to judge correctly upon all the phases which arise, this mental part being of first importance ; while the physical is secondary,. 12 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. especially in this age of machinery. The allowance necessary for shrinkage varies for different kind of metals, and the differ- ent conditions under which they are cast. For castings where the thickness runs about one inch, cast under ordinary con- ditions, the following allowances can be made : For cast iron ... ... ^^o^^- P^"^ ^o^t. „ mal. iron ... ... |in. „ brass ^^in. „ „ steel |in. „ Thicker castings, under the same conditions, will shrink less, and thinner ones more than this standard. The quality of the iron, and the manner of moulding and of cooling will also make a difference. Where there is a large range of work, the shrink-rule is often discarded, and the judgment and experience of the pattern maker substituted. When heavy and light parts occur in one casting, it will cause unequal shrinkage, which will crack the casting or draw it out of shape, or weaken it by the unequal strains existing within itself. A good illustration of this is found in an ordinary pulley with straight arms. Generally speaking, all patterns should be " drafted," that is, tapered so as to draw from the mould. Thus is seen the necessity of deciding how the pattern is to be moulded before commencing to make it, so as to have the draft in the right direction. It seems to be generally conceded that one-sixteenth of an inch, on all sides, for one foot of depth shall be the amount allowed, and though this may be taken as the rule, deviations are frequently made on both sides of it. The hubs and rims of wheels, and the ribs on machine framing, though shown parallel on a drawing, are always cast with a good deal of taper. Where extra draft does not interfere with the designs, about an eighth TAPER IN PATTERNS. 13 of an inch in three inches is a fair allowance. On the other hand, the teeth of spur-wheels and of pinions are made almost square ; the draft being so little that it cannot be detected in the castings. The pressure of iron being greater at the bottom of the mould than at the top causes a slight expansion of the mould, thereby neutralising the draft. Sometimes the teeth in the casting are found to be larger on the bottom side than the pattern teeth were on the top side. Core boxes that cannot be taken apart, require at least one-thirty-second of an inch draft for every three inches of depth. If less be given the core cannot be relied upon to shake cleanly out of the box. If there are narrow or intricate places in the box, more draft must be allowed in those parts. The least that the core-maker can work with is named, but where extra draft does not act detrimentally it is well to give more, even to as much as three-sixteenths of an inch on all sides for every three inches of depth. An extra amount of taper must be given to all fixed projec- tions on a pattern that rise into the upper part of the mould. The same is true of any cavity in a pattern into which the cope descends. This extra taper, sometimes called ''cope- draft," is necessary because there is no opportunity to rap or loosen the pattern in the mould before the cope is lifted off. The natural adhesion of the sand to the pattern causes portions of the cope to become detached, involving much time, trouble and uncertainty in repairing the mould. Proper consideration of this matter is of great importance, as it may effect a great saving of time in the moulding shop, without interfering with the draughtsman's designs, or throw- ing any additional labour on the machinist. Wood patterns should be painted or varnished before they are put into the moulding-sand. Some woods — oak for ex- ample — will draw moisture from the sand and adhere to it, and 14 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. the patterns will be difficult to draw. Cedar and deal draw easily even unpainted, but much depends upon the finish . The paint best suited, as a thin coating for patterns, is that made of red lead and a hard drying-oil; sometimes patterns are afterwards blackleaded, or glass-papered, or rubbed with pow- dered chalk. Pumice-stone also is often used instead of glass- paper, and then a coating of blacklead and beer. The latter may be put on the bare wood if the pattern is fairly finished, and only two or three castings are wanted from it. Hard wood patterns will draw well if coated with copal varnish. Coarse work very often has a coating of common paint. Weak shellac varnish is another protection. Many men who make patterns follow the cabinet-maker's style, without considering the requirements and usage of the foundry, and take pride in making close joints with nails and glue, so that though the pattern looks well in the pattern shop, it often comes to grief in the mould. A pattern that is right when it leaves the pattern shop is not sufficient ; it must be so constructed that it will keep right under the conditions to which it is subjected in the foundry. In large and heavy work these points call for great attention. To insure the special treatment which is necessary to the diff'erent parts of the mould, it is a good practice to varnish with different colours. For example, for the parts that are to be finished or machined bright, use clear or yellow varnish ; for core prints, red : and for unfinished surface use lampblack in the varnish. It is very little more work, and it carries its own information. By this means the moulder can see at a glance the parts which require to be clean, where he can use blacking, and the best place to make the air-gate. The same advantage results from a similar treatment of the core-boxes, and for the same reasons. CHAPTER II. MOULDING AND FOUNDING. M'MIHE Founders' art is based upon the fusibility of metals ^.Pj and alloys, and affords one means by which they are given the varied forms which fit them for application in the arts. The softer metals and alloys, such as lead, pewter, type- metal, Britannia-metal, and even zinc are usually cast in metallic moulds which are used over and over again. In a more restricted sense moulding is understood to embrace the formation of moulds in sand and loam, which are used for cast- ing metals and alloys fusing above a red heat, as cast-iron, brass, gun-metal, bell-metal, &c. These moulds can be used but once ; after pouring and cooHng, they are broken up to get out the casting, the sand not being used again. Pouring the metal for brass and iron castings is accom- plished from crucibles or ladles respectively. In large iron- works several ladles, each holding from two to four hundredweight of metal, are often used simultaneously; for still larger masses, crane ladles holding several tons are employed; and when such are insufficient the mould is filled by leader channels direct from the furnace. The trade of the iron-moulder is distinct from that of the brass-moulder (who also deals with gun and bell-metals), but the methods employed are so nearly identical that in describ- ing the several operations a distinction is not necessary. Moulds forming the matrix in which an object is cast are made in green-sand or dry-sand and in loam. For the first'a i6 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. pattern is required ; for the last it is generally dispensed- with. Moulds are divided into : — Open moulds, into which the metal is poured, the upper surface of the fluid metal assuming the horizontal position. Such are used for ingots and some other objects. Close moulds of metal or plaster of Paris, with ingates by which the molten metal enters. Such moulds are used for inkstands, bullets, type and various other articles made of lead, tin, zinc, and their alloys, which fuse at a moderate heat. Close moulds of sand, in which articles of iron, brass, bronze, &c. , are cast. This is the ordinary foundry work, and includes machinery, ordnance, and the multitude of articles of domestic and agricultural hardware. Loam-work in which the mould is built up, instead of being rammed around a pattern. This is used in casting cylinders, tanks, bells, or ordnance of very large size. Green-sand moulding is the term employed to express the fact that the sand is used in its green or natural state, and is not subjected to any drying or baking process before casting it is the method followed for the great mass of castings, both iron and brass. The sand for this purpose is kept damp,, sufficiently so to form into a compact mass when squeezed in the hand, but it must not be wet, or approach that condition. The brass-moulder keeps his sand in a trough or bin, over which he works, small castings forming the bulk of his work ;. but in an iron foundry the whole floor to a considerable depth is formed of old-sand, and on this the surplus quantity for use is heaped together in mounds. In working from a pattern in green-sand the object in view is to produce in the finely-packed sand a cavity, identical in. form with that of the pattern, which is afterwards filled with molten metal and left to cool. To accomplish this the work- man is provided with a large assortment of flasks, or mould- ing-boxes of most various dimensions ; they are designed to GREEN-SAND MOULDING, i7 •hold the sand used in making the moulds. Small flasks are ■simply rectangular frames resembling ordinary boxes, but without either top or bottom ; each part being from 3 inches to 6 inches high. They are connected together generally in pairs (often three or more), by steady-pins, which allow of their separation when full of sand, and their restoration to exactly the same relative positions afterward. Large flasks are provided with cross-bars at suitable distances to prevent the sand, which has been rammed into them, from falling out of its own weight, or rising from the upward pressure of the fluid metal. The following description will serve to illustrate the prin- ciples which govern and guide the moulder working in green- ■sand. One flask being laid with its lugs uppermost is filled and rammed up with old sand, and stricken off level with the joint of the flask : this is called a false-part. If the object to be moulded has a suitable symmetrical form, the sand in the false-part is cut away roughly, so as to imbed one half of the pattern. Some dry parting-sand is next scattered over the surface. This adheres to the damp sand, and prevents any adhesion between such a surface and any other sand sub- sequently rammed upon it. After the parting-sand is blown off the exposed part of the pattern, the other side or drag is put on, its steady-pins entering the holes in the lugs of the false-part easily, but without shake. Prepared facing-sand is next sieved over the pattern in sufficient quantity to cover it completely ; the box is filled with old sand from the floor of the shop, and is carefully rammed up and stricken off. After provision is made for the escape of gasses from the sand by piercing it all over with a sharp-pointed steel wire, known as a vent- wire, the two flasks are held together and turned over on a bed prepared for the drag upon the floor, or on a flat board if the boxes are small, and the false-part, hav- c i8 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. ing done its work, is lifted off and emptied. An exact parting is now made with the trowel along the medial line, if the casting be symmetrical, the damp facing-sand being added or cut away sharply up to the pattern, as occasion may require. The parting-line is, as a general rule, that line upon the pattern, as it lies in the sand, above and below which the sides- of the pattern slant inwards from the perpendicular. This is frequently an undulating line, but the parting surface always runs from it in all directions to the horizontal edge of the box. Parting-sand is now strewn over the whole, and the surplus blown off. The upper flask or cope being replaced, a short cylindrical runner-stick is thrust into the sand of the lower part at a convenient distance from the pattern ; facing-sand is sieved on, the box filled up with old sand, rammed up, and stricken off as before. The vent-wire is then used as with the drag, the runner-stick withdrawn, and the opening left, through which the metal has ultimately to pass to the mould, is shaped bell-mouthed. The moulder, either alone if the box be small, or with the help of other workmen or the crane itself if it be large, lifts the -cope steadily upward, leaving the pattern in the sand of the Fig. I. Sleeker. Fig. 2. Sleeker. SLEEKERS. 19 drag. The cope is then usually turned over on wooden blocks for repairing and dressing. The pattern has now to be drawn from the sand. This is done with the help of spikes, or screwed rods, temporarily attached to it ; with one 01 more of these it is lifted, being made to vibrate the while by rapid rapping with a piece of wood or iron, for the purpose of causing it to leave the sand readily. The moulder has now to repair with suitable tools called sleekers, some types of which are shown at Figs, i, 2, 3 and 4, any broken parts of the sand forming the mould, then to cut the runners or channels, from the opening left by the gate-stick to the mould, along which the fluid metal finds its way; and lastly to dust over the facing- sand surface of the mould finely powdered charcoal from a linen bag if for iron, and meal-dust, or some simi- lar substance, if for brass. 3 4- Sleekers. Charcoal, when this is used, is sleeked down with trowels and Sleekers as far as possible, so as to bring it into intimate con- tact with the damp sand. The excess of dust in every case is blown off with bellows. When the top part is closed, it occu- pies exactly the position it did before ; the space then filled by 20 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. the pattern being now vacant and in connection with the gate, the fluid metal can therefore make its way in so as to fill such space, the form of which it will be found to have taken when cold. The foregoing may be regarded as typical of all solid work in green-sand, the imaginary case described being almost the simplest possible. When hollow work is required, especially if the cavities are long or tortuous, dry-sand or loam cores are employed to form such openings. These are made either by pressing damp sand of suitable composition into a wooden sort of mould, known as a core-box, from which it is removed and dried by artificial heat, or by attaining the same end by the use of plastic loam on a perforated barrel or a core-plate. When such a core is perfectly dry, having received a thin coat of a mixture of clay, water and charcoal-dust, called black-wash, it is placed in position in the mould. This is determined, and the core is held in its place, by making it longer than the hole in the casting, and letting the extra parts rest in suitable cavities in the sand, made by projections on the pattern known as prints. An ordinary water-pipe is a good illustration of this class of work. The pattern for such a casting is solid, and has at its ends cyUndrical projections of the inside diameter of the pipe. The long core, through which runs a perforated barrel for the escape of gas, rests upon that part of the mould which is made by the prints, and completely fills those cavities ; but it leaves a space all round which exactly represents the pipe, and which is finally filled by melted metal. Machine moulding is now largely used when large numbers of castings are wanted from one pattern. Figs. 5 and 6 illustrate two small moulding machines and their construction may be seen by careful inspection. The machine shown at Fig. 5 consists of a bed-plate on MOULDING MACHINES. 21 which rest two vertical columns, the distance between these is capable of adjustment according to the size of the pattern plate. In the columns are two spindles which carry the pattern plate in bearings ; these spindles are telescoped up and down the columns by means of a hand lever ; the pattern Fig. 5. Moulding Machine. plate can be turned completely round in its bearings. Under- neath is a table running on rollers. The moulding boxes can be firmly attached to the pattern plate by means of split keys or screws. The bottom box is first fixed to the plate and the sand rammed up ; the whole is then turned completely over and the box lowered until it rests upon the table ; the plate 22 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. is then unfastened from the box and fixed in its bearings by the set screws and, by means of the hand lever, raised from the mould, giving it, at the same time, one or two gentle raps as it leaves the sand ; the bottom box is now ready. The process of moulding the top is exactly the same as for the bottom, taking the impression from the other side of the Fig. 6. Moulding Machine. plate. An accurate perpendicular lift and raising the pattern plates equally on both spindles prevents the breaking of the corners or the cracking of the sand, thus completely avoiding troublesome applications of water and the mending up of the mould. The advantages of machine over hand moulding, are, perfect lift, rapidity of work, and a labourer can work the machine, as beyond ramming up the sand no skill is required. LOAM MOULDING. 23 Dry-sand moulding may be regarded as identical in all •essential points with that in green-sand, except that the mould when finished is thoroughly dried by artificial heat. By this 'treatment the sand, especially prepared for the work, is baked to a hard, compact mass. Dry-sand moulding is chiefly used for heavy castings, where great solidity and strength are ■required. The drying is done in a heated room called the stove or oven. Loam, as prepared for loam moulding, is essentially to be regarded as a mixture of sand and clay, the latter in quantity sufficient to give a plastic character to the whole when tempered with water to the consistence of mortar or plaster. This material is much used for the construction of large moulds and cores, and, as has been previously stated, it obviates the necessity for patterns — generally very costly ones — and core- boxes. Loam cores are struck up, usually upon a hollow perforated spindle covered with a layer of hay-band. The spindle — often consisting of common gas-pipe — is made to run in notched trestles, upon which a loam-board rests parallel to the axis of the spindle. The loam is heaped upon this board, while at a proper distance the spindle is made to revolve slowly before it by a simple winch-handle. After it is thoroughly dried in the drying-stove, it is turned to the exact size, black-washed, and re-dried, when it is ready for use. Loam-moulding is a process entirely distinct from either green-sand or dry-sand moulding. It is chiefly applied to large castings, such as cylinders, pans, or large water-pipes, and is really conducted on principles quite analogous to the above. As a typical instance, take the moulding of a large sugar or soap boiler's pan here described. Such a vessel is cast mouth downward. A heavy, flat, cast-iron loam-plate, in the form of a ring, is laid upon a low carriage or truck which truns in and out of the drying-stove. The outside and inside 24 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. diameters of this flat ring are respectively greater and less thans that of the rim of the pan, and it is also provided with strong, projecting staples by which to move it and the mould upon it, by means of the crane, from the stove-truck to the pit in the floor where the casting is made. In the centre of this ring rises a perpendicular spindle running in a long bearing provided for it in the carriage, and carrying a movable arm from its upper end. A templet of wood of the exact sweep of the inside of the pan is now clamped to the cross-arm of the spindle, and the latter is lowered so as to bring one end of the templet down to the plate, and there it is fixed. In revolving through a complete circle, the edge of the templet will now describe a figure representing the inside surface of the pan. A rough dome of common brickwork set in loam is built upon the ring, keeping it two or three inches clear of the templet,, and leaving an opening at top large enough for the spindle to turn freely. Loam is then applied to the dome in two or three coats, and it is finally struck-up, with the help of the revolving templet, to an exact form. This structure is dried and then black-washed, and is known in loam-moulding as the nowel. The templet used hitherto is now replaced by another whichi gives the form of the outside of the pan. With its help the thickness is struck-up upon the nowel in loam which contains a good proportion of clay. It will be seen that this application represents the thickness of metal required for the pan. When dry, it is likewise black-washed, and re-dried ; the last application in both cases being made to secure a parting. A second cast-iron ring, also provided with strong ears or lugs, is lowered down till it rests upon that part of the first loam-plate which extends beyond the thickness, last applied. A coating of wet loam is then put on with the hand to the surface of the thickness, and a second dome of brickwork is built against it. When all is dry, the position of the second ring is marked, if LOAM MOULDING. 7.% not secured with pins. The crane is then made fast to it, and ^ the cope is lifted off. In all probability in doing this the thickness-loam will break to pieces ; if it does not, it is gently knocked away, and the sur- faces of both the nowel and the cope are repaired and dressed, and finally black-washed. Before this is done the spindle is lifted out, and the opening in the nowel carefully closed ; that in the cope usually plays the part of ingate. When both parts of the mould are united, a space is left between corresponding to the thickness removed, ready to receive metal. By means of the crane, made fast to the lower ring, the whole is deposited in a pit, and old sand rammed around it, so as to hold the cope down, and increase its power of resisting the lateral pressure of the metal, which is very great. Adequate provision is also made for the easy escape to the surface of the gases generated by the hot metal, especially those forced inwards through the dried loam and brickwork of the nowel. The formation of the ingate is also carefully attended to. In smaller foundries often, and sometimes in those which are very large, loam-moulds are made that cannot be moved, so rendering it necessary to dry them where made. In such cases slow-burning fires are made under them in the open shop, and the evaporation of the moisture is thus accomplished. With some large cylinders, such as those of the Cornish pumping-engines, eighty to one hundred inches bore and twelve to fourteen long, also with the cylinders of the large blowing- engines and blast furnaces, the nowel and cope are made separately. The cope is built up and turned inside with a radius-bar 3 the core is erected on a plate on the floor and turned on the outside to a gauge ; when dried, it is lowered into the cope by a crane. A modification of the plan for loam-work casting of cylinders, and similar large hollow articles is found in making the cope 26 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. devisible by a verticle joint, so as to separate laterally into two semi-cylindrical portions which rest ,upon semi-annular plates, so as to slip back when the thickness representing the metal is removed. Large water-pipes are cast upon cores, which are made of a layer of loam upon a hay band wound upon a perforated pipe, the pipe being supported on bearings, and the loam turned off to a smooth surface, which is dried, and black- washed. The thickness is laid on and black-washed, and this substitute for a pattern is moulded in sand. The core with its envelope is withdrawn, and the thickness removed; the core is supported in the mould by the prints at the ends and by grains with long wires. Pipes are also made from wooden patterns cut in halves through the axis. The drag and cope respectively receive the impression of one half, and when the pattern is removed the mould is ready for the core and the making of the ingate. The moulds for crooked pipes and branches are frequently ^made in halves upon a flat iron plate. An iron bar or templet of the curve required is laid down, and a semi-circular piece of wood, called a strickle, is used for working and smoothing the half-core ; next, a larger strickle is used for laying on the thickness ; the two halves are then fixed together by wires, and are moulded in the sand-flask ; the thickness is now slipped off the core, which is fixed in the mould by its prints, and, if needful, is supported also upon grains. There are two general processes for casting gold, silver, alloys of copper, etc. The oldest in use from time immemorial in China, Japan and India, consists in forming the pattern of such a material that it can be burned or melted out of an otherwise solid mould, which is then filled with the metal. By this process, figures of most irregular shapes can be cast with- out difficulty. The patterns are usually made of wax, but they PLASTER MOULDS. 27 miy be made of any very combustible material, such as pine wood. Insects, small animals, fruits, leaves and other natural productions can be used as models, and placed direct in the mould. There are many substances used to form the moulds; several kinds of clay, and also clay mixed with horse-dung \ also river mud washed clean. A composition of one-third plaster of Paris and two-thirds brick dust, mixed with water, is perhaps as good as any. These moulds should be burned at a red heat, but not those made entirely of plaster of Paris, For smooth castings, the brick dust is separated into fine and coarse by throwing it into water. The coarser particles will fall to the bottom in a minute or two ; the water is then poured into another vessel, and the rest of the brick dust will gradually settle down as a fine powder. This fine dust is mixed with fine plaster, and an even layer of it is carefully laid all over the model, which is then covered with the coarser mixture to a sufficient thickness. Small wires or cords should lead from the pattern to the outside of the mould, so that, on being drawn or burned out, they will leave apertures for the escape of the confined air from the mould w^hen the metal is poured in. The mould is dried gradually and heated until the wax runs out, or the combustible model is reduced to ashes, and is then baked in a stove or oven to a red heat. The runner or ingate for conveying the metal to the interior of the mould should be fixed to a part of the model and moulded with it. The runner may be shaped like a funnel, and should be of considerable size, that the weight of the extra metal may condense that in the mould, making a sharp and well-defined casting. Care must be taken to remove all the ashes of the model from the mould, which can be done by blowing through the holes made for the escape of air. 28 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. When the metal is poured in, the mould should be very hot. The Hindoos lute the mould to the mouth of the crucible, and heat the mould while the metal is melting ; then, by simply reversing the crucible, the metal runs into the mould. This process is a very beautiful one, and work of the very highest art is done by it. The utmost care, however, must be exer- cised, as the pattern is necessarily destroyed, and, if the casting is a failure, there is no chance for another trial. Soft and perishable objects may be also moulded so as to produce a single casting by one of the following methods, which are adapted to procuring castings of small animals, insects, flowers, feathers, ferns, seaweed, wax models, etc : — Support the object in the centre of a small box by means of needles, one or two of which should be sufficiently large to form ingates. Some fine river-mud is dropped into the box and shaken around so as to adhere to the object. When par- tially dry, a coarser grade of silt is thrown in, and successively coarse qualities until the box is filled. The needles and ingate wires are now withdrawn, the mould burnt to reduce the object to ashes, which are shaken and blown out when the mould is ready for pouring the metal. Another method is to take the object itself or a wax model, such as that of a flower, and suspend it in a box while plaster of Paris is carefully poured around it. The application of heat causes the object to burn or the plaster to absorb the wax; or, if the latter be in excess, it can be poured out. The strings by which the object was suspended are withdrawn, and the mould is ready for casting. The castings may be covered with gold or silver by the electrotype process. The infinite variety of forms which the moulder is called upon to reproduce, as well as the constantly varying conditions and materials with which he has to deal, require much judg- ment, experience and forethought. For these reasons, also. VARIETIES IN MOULDINGS. 29 it is not possible to explain or even enumerate in the space at disposal the endless modifications which are constantly oc- curring in the above typical cases. A glossary of terms used in moulding, with explanations designed to elucidate this important, interesting and many-sided art, is given at the end •of this handybook. CHAPTER III. m BENCHES AND APPLIANCES. jHE use of makeshift tools and appliances will always^ I be a source of monetary loss and inconvenience. Tools specially adapted for certain purposes will not only pro- duce better work, but will do it in less time and at less ex- penditure of power and skill, so that the advantages of using the most appropriate machinery for doing certain work is. obvious. It is by no means advisable to use tools of a superior class to produce work of a kind that can be made equally well with less expensive machinery, any more than it is commend- able to use costly exotic wood to make a fire with when cheap waste is at hand. The pattern-maker requires a bench of some kind, and in travelling from shop to shop in different countries, all sorts and conditions of benches are met with, and at which the pattern- maker is expected to feel at home. In some shops the benches are made with a wide board on edge in front, to support the top, leaving a space of about i8 inches between the floor and the under edge of this board. A good deal can be stowed away underneath this kind of bench, and one never knows the treasures they cover out of sight, to be turned out by posterity, or perhaps to remain for all time. The same sort of bench, if made a foot or so wider, may have two men working at diagonal corners, and it becomes, social. Rare old yarns are told across these big benches. On a double bench one's tools, especially when nice and sharp. GERMAN BENCH. 31; have a knack of travelling to the other corner, and the other man's idea of the extent of his half of the top may sometimes, include about seven-eighths of its superficies. Fig. 7 shows a bench now often met with, and one which is particularly useful for the work of pattern-making. The bench next described is one suited to the small work- 32 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. shop. Fig. 8 is a sketch of it. The top is six feet long and two feet broad. It is in two pieces. The front portion is fifteen inches broad and two-and-a-half inches thick, of red or yellow pine, free from shakes and twisted growth ; the back piece is nine inches broad and one-and-a-half inches thick, both rest on level rails, which make the back pieces one inch lower than the front. Along the back edge is screwed a rail of wood, which projects upwards one inch, and is therefore Fig. cJ. Bench. on a level with the front plank, so that broad work will lie solidly across the bench. The object of having the back portion of this bench an inch lower than the front is so that nails and small tools or chips may lie in it without interfering with work on the bench. It also prevents the tools rolling off the bench, which they often do and are lost amongst the shavings. The supporting frame of this bench consists of two rails screwed to the legs, as in the sketch. These rails are five inches deep and two inches thick. Three of the legs are four inches by two inches, and the fourth, that behind the " lug," BENCH SCREW. 33 is six inches by two inches, all of good red pine. The back legs slant inwards towards the top, the ends of the rails being rounded off. The lower rails, four inches from the floor, are three inches by two inches. The other three rails are of a length to make the frame measure five feet. Two of the rails are three inches from the floor, back and front, and one in front, four inches below the top. They are dovetailed into the legs, and fastened with large screws, so that the bench may be taken to pieces for removal. Under the lower rails a boarding is nailed for holding planes, mallets, hammers, &c., and a small drawer is often put in, as shown in the sketch. The stops are put in this bench ; they come through outside of the front rail. The screw, shown at Fig. 9, is the same as before described, but of larger dimensions ; and, in addition to it, there is a side screw, which is found of ad- vantage. The lug of this bench should be of clean, straight hard wood, seven inches broad, cut away at the bottom to four inches, and two inches thick. The sword is two-and-a-half inches broad and five- eighths of an inch thick. Sometimes the lug has a piece 01 hardwood screwed across its inner face at the upper end ; this piece should be ten inches long, six inches broad, and one and a-quarter inches thick. For some purposes this is an advantage. The bench here shown is so fitted. A piece of wood is mortised into the edge of the " lug," and a similar piece into the edge of the leg — they project outwards six inches. A short wood screw works through the back- piece, and its point presses against the piece projecting from the lug. The ordinary lug cants over when the end of a broad D Fig. 9. Bench Screw. 34 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. board is caught in it, and the pressure is all on the edge of the board, which is very damaging to a piece of finished work. This side screw cures this evil, as it is turned out or in to suit the thickness of the work in the lug, the sword at the bottom being regulated by a pin. In the front of this bench is an upright post between the two rails. It has holes for a pin, as has also the right leg. A hole is bored through the post at right angles to the others, and in this the pin is kept when not in use. For general purposes, as good a stop as one needs is simply a square piece of hard wood, fitting tightly in a mortise in the bench top. It is suitable for the kind of bench shown in Fig. 8 ; but for a bench that has a front board about twelve inches deep some modification is necessary to save going down on one's knees to knock it up. For general service a wooden stop is the best. It does not cut into or damage the work so much as an iron one. If a plane or other tool comes in contact with a wooden stop it will not destroy the edge of that tool ; nevertheless. Fig. lo. it is well to have an iron stop let into the Iron Bench Stop. , , . • y ^ lk. bench. When not m use it smks to the level of the top of the bench, so that it may be quite out of the way of the tools. The special advantages possessed by an iron stop over one of wood are : The teeth of the iron stop, entering the wood, resist this tendency to slip to a much greater extent. And in planing thin stuff the iron stop is the best, because the wooden stop, when worn, or when the stuff is not lying perfectly straight upon the bench, allows the thin board to raise and pass over it when the force of the plane is applied. The holdfast, or valet, is made of iron, and is used to hold work firmly on the bench to be mortised, or otherwise operated BENCH VICE. 35 upon. It consists of a round rod one-and-a-quarter inch thick, with a curved forked piece. In this fork is a lever-arm, fixed between the jaws with a pin. The back end of the lever has a square-threaded screw passing through, with its end coming in contact with the heel or end of the long bar. In using the holdfast, the bar is dropped through a hole in the bench top, the curved end of the lever coming down upon the work to be held. The pressure is applied by turning the the screw at back end of this lever, and by these means the work is securely held. Fig. 1 1 is a handy vice, made to be held in the bench lug. It is very useful for holding small work to be sawn with the bow-saw, as this tool can be got round such work much better than when it is fixed in the lug itself ; the operator can also stand erect. It is also useful for holding all kinds of small work to be operated upon with the chisel, file, spokeshave, or other tools, as well as for holding the smaller saws to be sharpened. It consists of two sides, or jaws, thirteen inches long, five inches broad at the upper part, three inches at the lower, and one-and-a-half inch thick, of beech or black birch. Through these jaws, five inches from the top, passes a wooden screw one-and-a-half inch diameter, and nine inches long on the screwed part. It goes freely through the front jaw, but is tapped into the other. Near the bottom is a five-eighths of an inch screw, tapped in the front jaw, and pressing against the other j its use is to keep the jaws parallel, as the sword does THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. the bench lug. Projecting from the edge of the back jaw is a piece, six inches long and four inches broad ; by this the the vice is held in the bench lug. A small fillet is screwed to the back of the back jaw, which, resting upon the bench, pre- vents the vice slipping downwards when using it. The screw- head, three inches in diameter, and about the same length, has a wooden lever pin, nine inches long and three-quarters of an inch in diameter, passing through it ; this should be of ash or rose-wood. A hand-screw is shown, Fig. 12. It consists of two jaws inches thick, with one-and-a-quarter inch screws about the same length. The second size has jaws fourteen inches long, and screws in proportion. The third size has jaws twelve inches long, two inches broad, and one-and-a-half inch thick. The screws are three-quarters of an inch in diameter, and have the screwed part nine inches long. The small size has jaws seven-and-a-half inches long, one five-eighths of an inch broad, and one inch thick. The screws are half-an-inch in diameter, and have eight inches screwed. In making hand-screws the two jaws are planed parallel, and tapered off at the end on the outside. In the middle of the length of the jaw a hole is bored to allow the screw to pass Fig. 12. Hand Screws. and two screws. There are several sizes, and in a well- app'ointed shop generally about a dozen of each size. The large size has jaws about twenty inches long, three inches broad and two-a n d- a-half SHOOTING AND MITRE BOARD. 37 through freely. In the other jaw, a hole is made and tapped for the screw, and at the end a second hole is tapped for the second screw. In the first jaw, and opposite the point of the back pin, a shallow hollow is made. This is simply to pre- vent the point of the screw slipping when the hand-screw is being fixed upon the work. To open these screws speedily to the required width, take the head of the middle pin in your left hand, and the head of the other in your right, and by twirling them one way the jaws are opened, and by twirling them the other way they are as rapidly closed. The screws should be blackleadedj and they then work easily in the threads. Among indispensable tools is the cramp, made wholly of iron. A useful cramp is one that will take in three feet. This should have a lengthening bar, which will enable it to take in another three feet. The lengthening bar is attached with two short bolts and nuts. With this cramp, and a pair to take in thirty inches, and another pair to take in twenty inches, the workshop might be considered furnished with cramps. The shooting and mitre board is shown at fig. 13. This board Fig. 13. Shooting and Mitre Board. lies upon the bench and against the stop. Its use is for squaring the ends of short pieces of stuff, the plane being laid upon its side and pushed forward, and as a mitre board the plane is pushed in the same way, only the wood in this case is planed to an angle of 45°. This board is made of two pieces of Bay mahogany, each thirty inches long, six inches broad and one 38 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. inch thick. One overlaps the other two inches, and they are screwed together, thus forming a lower bed, four inches broad,, where the plane runs, and an upper bed six inches broad. The under-side of the board must be made up at the ends by two fillets four inches long, two inches broad and one inch thick,, screwed on, which gives a level bearing surface ten inches broad. A fillet, or stop, of mahogany is made, and sunk into a shallow groove an inch from the fore end, and at exactly right angles with the edge or shooting direction of the plane. A triangular piece is made, having two adjacent edges at right angles, and it must be placed upon the board about the middle of the length, with the right-angle corner pointing towards the sole of the plane, and the two edges exactly at an angle of 45° with the sole of the plane. It should be sunk into the board for about one-eighth inch, and fixed with screws. It has occa- sionally to be taken off, to admit of using the whole length of the board as a shooting board. This board is used for mitreing all mouldings of a thin flat description. It is also used for small frame mouldings of all kinds. The use of a shooting board for jointing the ends is a common practice, but the joint is made more quickly and is stronger when made with a saw, which does not close the pores of the wood as a plane does when cutting at an angle with the grain ; and the short grain on the comers is not so liable to break. An American mitre planer, imported by Messrs. Churchill, is shown at fig. 14. It is made entirely of iron, and will plane any desired angle on straight or curved work. The bed piece is semicircular, with guides in which the plane runs. The movable quadrant has its sides at right angles ; these act as guides for the material to be planed ; it rotates on the stud A, and can be placed at any angle. When in the centre, a mitre joint is planed. The adjustable guides, which are fixed by the MITRE PLANER. 39 screws D D, are used when pieces of oval or circular form are to be planed accurately to gauge. Glue is used by pattern makers for joining the worlc. The surfaces of the wood to be united should be clean, dry and true 3 they should be brought together as tightly as possible, so that the superfluous glue is squeezed out. The cohe- sion of a piece of solid glue is found to be such that if two pieces of board had been well glued to- gether the wood would yield in its substance before the glue. The strength of common glue for coarse work is in- creased by the addition of a little powdered chalk. Glue is prepared from waste pieces of skin, horns, hoofs and other animal offal. These are steeped, washed, boiled, strained, melted, re-boiled and cast into cakes, which are then dried. The strongest kind of glue is made from the hides of oxen ; that from the bones and sinews is weaker. Good glue should be hard in the cake, of a dark colour, almost transparent, free from black or cloudy spots, and with ittle or no smell. The best sorts are transparent, and of a 40 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. clear amber colour. Inferior kinds are sometimes contami- nated with the lime used for removing the hair from the skins of which they are made. The best glue swells considerably (the more the better) when immersed in cold water, but does not dissolve, and returns to its former size when dry. Inferior glue, made from bones, will, however, dissolve almost entirely in cold water. In using glue, break it into small pieces, cover it with cold water, and let it stand for from twelve to twenty-four hours, so that, as already mentioned, it swells to many times its original bulk. The soaked pieces are melted, without more water, over a slow fire and kept simmering for about a quarter of an hour, with frequent stirring. When cooled it is a firm jelly, of such a consistence as very readily to be cut by any instrument, but too stiff to be tremulous. When wanted to be used, it is merely warmed, which renders it sufficiently fluid to be spread over the surface of the wood with a stiff brush. Wood joined by glue requires from one to three days to be perfectly cemented, which is known by the hardness of the portion that remains on the outside of the joining, and the force of cohesion of the best glue is such that boards such as commonly used will quite as readily give way to violence at any other part of the substance as at the joining. Glue will not set in a freezing temperature, the stiffening being prevented by great cold. The hotter the glue is when applied, the greater will be its binding power in holding surfaces together ; therefore, in all large and long joints glue should be apphed as soon as possible after boiling. When glue is constantly required special appliances are used to keep a supply in readiness, and Fig. 15 shows Richards' Improved Steam Glue Oven which is made with double plates throughout, so that the pots do not come in contact with the steam or water. The steam chamber is cast in one piece, and GL UE. 41 there is a joint where the flange is bolted on at the bottom. Steam and waste pipes, with screw valves, are fitted on each side, as shown. In front is a pet cock, for drawing off the hot water for mixing with the glue. There are three pots of iron, galvanised, which are turned at the flanges, so as to make a tight joint and prevent loss of heat. In the No. i size, the central pot, used for melting, holds one gallon, and those at the end one-third gallon each. A galvanised sheet-iron water Fig. 15. Steam Glue Oven. bucket, to hold one gallon, is also included with the ovens. In the No. 2 size all the pots are of the same size, holding each two gallons. The floor space occupied by the No. i size is three feet by two feet, and the No. 2 size three feet by three feet. There are a large number of these ovens in use, and they are strongly recommended by the makers for their deanhness and safety from leakage. Glue loses much of its strength by frequently re-melting, and that which is freshly made is preferable to that which is re-boiled. In melting ordinary glue in the double vessel con- 42 THE PATTERN MAKER'S UANDYBOOK. taining water, it is an excellent plan to add salt to the water in the outer vessel. It will not boil then until heated consider- ably above its ordinary boiling point ; and the heat is retained longer. Glue may be freed from the foreign animal matter generally in it by softening it in cold water and washing it several times till it no longer gives out any colour, then bruising it with the hand, and placing it in a linen bag beneath the surface of a large quantity of water at 66° Fahr. The pure glue is retained in the bag, and the soluble impuri- ties pass through. If the softened glue be heated to 122' and filtered, some other impurities will be retained by the filter, and a colourless solution of glue obtained. As ordinary glue readily absorbs moisture, it is very liable to cause trouble if not protected from the damp moulding sand. Glue may be made waterproof by adding to it bichro- mate of potash, which should be previously dissolved in water. CHAPTER IV. HAND TOOLS. §AWS are first in the lists of wood working tools, as with these, the first operation upon wood is performed. The ordinary wood worker has some six or eight saws, com- prising the rip, cross-cut, panel, tenon, dovetail, bow and keyhole. The first is used for cutting wood in the direction of the grain. The blade is twenty-eight inches long. It has three teeth to the inch, which are sharpened square across the blade, and are set very much forward. The cross-cut saw is twenty-six inches long in the blade, and the teeth, four to the inch, are sharpened at an angle of about 60° with the blade. The teeth of these saws are set to clear the draught in sawing, for without set they would bind in the kerf. This set consists in every alternate tooth being bent outwards one way, the remaining teeth bent in an equal degree the other way. Every alternate notch is filed with the file pointing to the right, at an angle of 60° : and the interme- diate notches are filed with the file pointing to the left at the corresponding angle. The outer corner of each tooth is thus brought up to an acute point 3 and looking along a properly set cross-cut saw, an angular furrow is shown along the teeth. The panel saw is the same length as the cross-cut, but has seven teeth to the inch. The teeth are sharpened at right angles with the blade like the rip saw, but are not so much set forward ; it is an excellent saw for either light ripping or 4t THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. cross-cutting ; and with this saw in his possession the pattern maker may dispense with the other two described above they being used only for heavy sawing. The tenon, or sash, saw, Fig. i6, has a thin blade, fourteen inches long, with a brass or iron back to stiffen it, and a closed Fig. 1 6. Tenon Saw. handle. It is used for every kind of sawing, whether with the grain or across, and particularly for ripping off the cheeks of tenons. The dovetail saw, Fig. 17, is used for dovetailing, as its name implies, besides for an in- finity of small work. It has a very thin blade, ten inches long, very fine teeth, a brass back. Fig. 17. dovetail Saw. like the tenon saw, and an open handle. The bow saw is a most useful tool for all kinds of small curved sawing. It consists of a frame made of beech or rosewood; the two ends are held apart by a stretcher let into them by a short tenon, near the middle of their length ; through the lower ends, the handles are inserted, having short brass rods riveted through them ; the inner ends of the rods are slit to receive the saw-blade. A strong cord is wound round the opposite ends of the frame, and by means of a short wooden lever the cord is tightened by twisting, which pulls apart the lower ends and tightens the saw-blade. Both handles carrying the blade, which is twelve inches long, turn WOOD PLANES. 4S in the holes, and thus facilitate getting round curves. In using this saw the work is held m the '' lug," and the saw is held by one handle, the forefinger passing round the front in front of the handle. The teeth of the saw are pointing from you j. consequently, the sawing is done with the push forward, not with the pull back. The keyhole saw consists of a handle about nine inches long, with a brass ferrule. It is pierced with a narrow slit from end to end, and the blade, which is very narrow at the point, and has five teeth to the inch, may be shortened or lengthened at pleasure by means of the hole in the handle, and fixed at any desired length by two binding- screws in the ferrule. This saw is handy where the bow saw cannot be used. Planes are the tools chiefly used for smoothing the surface of wood after it has been sawn to approximate size. The stocks of planes are now made both in wood and in iron. Iron planes bear the same names, and are used for the same purposes as those made of wood, but they are more costly. Some people prefer wood, but iron planes are rapidly making their way, as they deserve to, having several good points which the wooden planes have not. Unless a plane is straight we cannot expect to plane straight with it. A round plane planes hollowj and a hollow plane planes round., A wooden plane is constantly changing it shape, in a more or less perceptible degree, for reasons that are constantly operat- ing, viz. : the wear of the work, and tension produced by the wedge, and the dry or moist state of the atmosphere. It is usual for a workman, who has some particularly accurate planing to do, to commence by first "truing" his plane. Every time the sole of a plane is dressed, the mouth becomes, a little wider, and at last it gets so wide that shavings stick 46 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. in it, and trip the plane out of its cut, A plane with a wide mouth has a tendency to cut deeper than set for, when it approaches the end of the board. An iron plane practically does not wear at all. There is no wedge to spring it ; it is not affected by the weather, and its mouth remains the same size. In a wooden plane the cutter is fixed in its place by blows of the hammer on a wedge. It is loosened by blows upon the plane itself. No tool on the bench has a more worn and battered appearance than the plane. Blows of a hammer deliver a very uncertain pressure. A wooden plane might be true when three blows were struck on the wedge; a fourth blow might curve it. The knife in an iron plane is held down by an at all times equal pressure ; the depth of cut can be regulated to a nicety and with the greatest ease. Iron planes are a little heavier than wooden ones. An occasional touch of oil makes these iron planes glide like a skate over a piece of ice. Before the introduction of iron planes we had no- thing to plane circu- lar curves with. You could have a bow- plane to fit any circle, but it would fit only the curve it was made for. Now we have (Fig. 1 8), a plane with a spring steel sole, which may be adjusted to suit any circle down to thirteen inches diameter, internally or externally. It is the pioneer plane of its kind ; there is nothing else like it. \ Fig. i8. Adjustable Circular Plane. IROJV PLANES. 47 Iron planes have a decided advantage over wooden ones for many purposes. The iron half-long being planed accu- rately on the sole, makes the long joints with much greater facility, and does not get out of truth like the wooden one. The iron panel plane gets up a smooth surface on hard wood much better than the wooden one. The iron smoothing plane has a similar advantage over that of wood ; and the iron rabbet plane may be said to be almost indispensable. These are made with the soles from half- an -inch to one inch wide, the sole and sides being iron filled in with wood. A useful size is five-eighths of an inch, which has two irons, one being near the front. It is used for cleaning out the square angular corners •of mouldings, checks for panels, etc. A great variety of iron planes are now imported from America. They are generally made of cast-iron. The home- made ones are malleable iron, often filled in with wood, giving them a more substantial appearance. American are largely used, being cheaper and generally lighter to handle. One, the American iron smoothing plane, has a handle similar to a half-long plane : behind this handle is an adjusting screw, by which the cutting iron can be moved backwards or for- wards to a nicety, and the means used to fasten the iron is very simple and effective. The plane is light, and, having the handle, can be used with one hand. It is invaluable for smoothing cross-grained hard woods and many other purposes. The usual bench planes comprise the jack plane, which is the first that is applied to the wood after being sawn ; it is seven- teen inches long, and has an iron or cutter two-and-one-eighth of an inch broad. Immediately behind the iron is a handle similar to that of a saw. In use it is grasped by the right hand only in planing fir, but in heavy planing, and especially hard wood, it is necessary to place the left hand across the front of the plane to press it down, as it is too light of itself for the 48 THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. iron to take hold of the wood. When using both hands to the plane, the left is placed with the four fingers lying across the top near the fore end, the thumb passing down the near side. In order to remove the irons for sharpening, the plane is tapped on the upper side, near the fore end, with a hammer. Fig. 19. Steel Jack Plane. Two taps should loosen the wedge and the irons. In setting: up after sharpening, the back end of the cutting iron is tapped to give more iron ; and to give less iron the fore end of the plane stock is tapped gently. To set the iron evenly with the mouth, it is tapped on the edge behind the wedge. During this process of setting the iron, the eye is travelling along the- sole of the plane, the end resting on the bench. A little practice enables the operator to set his iron very quickly. Fig. 20. Wooden Half-Long Plane. The half long plane is from twenty-two inches to thirty inches long; the longer sizes being called jointers. Twenty- four inches is the most suitable length for ordinary purposes. SMOOTHING PLANES. 49 It has an iron like the jack, two-and-a-half inches broad, and a slightly different handle. This plane is used for dressing the wood after the jack, as it takes off the ridges left by that plane, and produces a more even surface. It is also used for squaring up and bringing the pieces to the desired measurements pre- vious to framing them together — and from its great length is well adapted for making long pieces practically straight on the edges — and for joining two or more pieces together to form a broad piece, it is indispensable. The smoothing plane, for fine or other soft woods, is nine inches long, having an iron two-and-a-quarter inches wide on the cutting face. The cutting iron has the same pitch, or angle with the sole, as the half-long. The stock of this plane has the sole and top parallel, but the sides are curved, making the two ends nar- , , Fig. 21. Iron Smoothing Plane. rower than the centre. The irons are held in place by a wedge, but this plane has no handle, and when using it, is held by both hands, the right behind, and the left before, unless occasionally when it is necessary to hold or steady the work with the left hand, then the right grasps the back part of the plane. This plane is used to put the finishing surface on the work in hand. After the drawing in, mortising, tenoning, dove-tailing, etc., have been done, and before a job is put together, all the parts that cannot afterwards be operated upon, are finished with this plane. The smoothing plane for hard woods is in shape the same as the above, but only seven-and-a-half inches or eight inches long, with a two-inch iron is set at a higher pitch — that is, it E so THE PATTERN MAKER'S HANDYBOOK. does not slant back so much. This plane is used for the same purpose in the finishing of hard woods as the other is for pine. The toothed plane has a stock similar to the hard wood hand plane, but the iron, instead of having a cutting edge, presents a series of sharp teeth to the wood. This serrated edge is formed by long narrow groves on the face of the iron next the wedge, and when the iron is ground in the usual manner these ridges terminate in sharp points. In setting-up this iron on the oil-stone only the ground back is applied to the stone. The position of this iron in the stock is nearly perpendicular, so that it is simply a scratch plane, and to do this it needs no cover like the others. Its use is to roughen the surfaces of pieces to be glued together, for while it takes off the ridges left by the half-long or panel plane, it roughens the surface by scratching, thereby adapting it better to hold the glue. The core-box plane is specially a pattern maker's plane generally known by the above name, but as core-boxes are of all shapes, it would seem that " half-circle plane " would be a more fitting name for it. Its action depends upon the fact, as demonstrated in Euclid (Book III., prop. 31), that "the angle in a semi-circle is a right angle." If two pins be stuck in the bench and a square be held against the pins, and moved so that the blade and back of the square slide against the pins, then the apex of the square wi 1 describe a perfect half-circle. The core box plane, a top view of which appears in Fig. 22, and an end view in Fig. 23, is seldom to be met with in tool warehouses, so those pattern makers who require it generally make it for themselves. Fig. 22 shows, perhaps the readiest method of constructing one of these useful tools. A common round plane, No. 12 size, has its sole planed to a right angle, CORE BOX PLANES. SI Fig. 22. Core Box Plane (Elevation). having the apex of the angle in the centre of the plane. Take two pieces of beech, or other hard wood, ten inches long, and seven inches wide, glue them to the plane, level with the faces previously planed on its sole ; strengthen by the addition of the four brackets shown at the corners. The mouth of the plane should be recessed to give free exit for shavings, so that the plane can be easily cleaned out if it chokes. A handle should be fitted, and, of course, the cutting iron will need to be ground to suit the new shape. Some take a rabbet-plane and fix one piece to it, so that the plane itself forms one side of the right angle. This is a simple method, but the shavings do not come out so well. Others make it out of a sohd piece, or the middle piece is solid and the sides are added, as Fig. 22. Or the middle piece is made in halves, for convenience in cutting out the mouth. All these methods are good if properly carried out, except the one that employs the rabbet-plane. The manner of using the core-box plane is shown in Fig. 23. The dotted line is the half-circle to be worked out. Having roughly gouged out a portion of the material, make the checks a and b by using the straight-edge ■ ¥>•■ Humber s work is characterised almost throughout by an exhai stiveness much more distmctive of French and German than of Enghsh technical treatises. — hngmeer. " We can congratulate Mr. I lumber on having been able to give so large an amount of in- lormation on a subject so important as the water supply of cities and towns. The plates, fifty "M„T 'f drawings of executed works, and alone would have commanded the attention of every engineer whose practice may lie in this branch of the profession. •■-£!«/ar«r Cast and Wrought Iron Bridge Construction. A COMPLETE AND PRACTICAL TREATISE ON CAST AND WROUGHT IRON BRIDGE CONSTRUCTION, including Iron FoundaHons. In Three Parts-Theoretical, Practical, and Descriptive. By William Humber, A.M. Inst. C.E.. and M. Inst. M.E. Third Edition revised and miich improved, with 115 Double Plates. In Two Vols. imp. 410, £6 16s. 6a. half-bound im morocco. ^.JI^'A Huraber-s stately volumes lately issued-in which the most important bridges erected during the last five years, under the direction of the late Mr. Brunei, Sir W. Cubitt Mr. Hawkshaw, Mr. Page, Mr Powler, Mr. Hemans, and others among our most eminent cngmeers, are drawn and specified in great detail."— Zfw^mfc?-. ■ ""ai cmu.eiit Oblique Bridges. A PRACTICAL AND THEORETICAL ESSAY ON OBLIQUE BRIDGES With 13 large Plates. By the late George Watson Buck, M.I.C.E. Third Edition, revised by"his Son I H Wat- son Buck, M.I.C.E.; and with the addition of Description to Diagram^ for facilitating the Construction of Oblique Bridges by W H Barlow M.I.C.E. Royal 8vo, I2S. cloth. o j ■ , " The standard text-book for all engineers regarding skew arches, is Mr. Buck's treatise and it would be impossible to consult a bettor. '— i;'«^,-«,f>-. • "ui.». ^ ifc^usc CROSBY LOCK WOOD &- CO.'S CATALOGUE. Bridge Construction in Masonry, Timber & Iron. EXAMPLES OF BRIDGE AND VIADUCT CONSTRUC- TION OF MASONRY, TIMBER AND IRON. Consisting of 46 Plates from the Contract Drawings or Admeasurement of select Works. By W. D. Haskoll, C.E. Second Edition, with the Addition of 554 Esti- mates, and the Practice of Setting out Works. Illustrated with 6 pages of Diagrams. Imp. 4to, £2 12s. 6d. half-morocco. " A work of the present nature by a man of Mr. Haskoll's experience must prove in- valuable. The tables of estimates will considerably enhance its value."— Jiiig^i/ieeriiij:. Earthwork. EARTHWORK TABLES. Showing the Contents in Cubic Yards of Embankments, Cuttings, &c., of Heights or Depths up to an average of 80 feet. By Joseph Broadbent, C.E., and Francis Campin, C.E. Crown 8vo, 5s. cloth. " The way in which accuracy is attained, by a simple division of each cross section iiUo tlH-ce elements, two in whicli are constant and one variable, is ingfenious.' — Athenaum. Barlow's Strength of Materials, enlarged. A TREATISE ON THE STRENGTH OF MATERIALS : with Rules for Application in Architecture, the Construction of Suspen- sion Bridges, Railways, &c. By Peter Barlow, F.R.S. Arranged and Edited by W. Humber, A.M. Inst. C.E. Demy 8vo, 400 pp., with 19 large Plates and numerous Woodcuts. i8s. cloth. " Valuable alike to the student, tyro, and the experienced practitioner, it will always rank in future as it has hitherto done, as the standard treatise on that particular subject." — " A book which no engineer of any kind can afford to be without." — Colliery Guardian. "Tlterc is no greater authority than Barlow." — Builditig Neius. Survey Practice. AID TO SURVEY PRACTICE, for Reference in Surveying, Levelling, Setting-out and in Route Surveys of Travellers by Land and Sea. With Tables, Illustrations, and Records. By Lowis D'A. Jackson, A.M.I. C.E., Author of " Hydraulic Manual," " Modern Metrology," &c. Large crown 8vo, 12s. 6d. cloth. " Mr. Jackson has produced a valuable vade meaim for the surveyor. We can recommend this book as containing an admirable supplement to the teaching of the accomplisliod sur- veyor, "^-(4//tt£^ineeriti£: Tunnelling. PRACTICAL TUNNELLING. By Frederick W. Simms, F.G.S., M. Inst. C.E. Third Edition, Revised and Extended by D. Kin- near Clark, M.Inst.C.E. Imp. 8vo, with 21 Folding Plates and numerous Wood Engravings, 30s. cloth. " It has been regarded from the first as a text-book of the subject . . Mr. Clark lias added immeiiiely to the value of the hook." —E>ig-i>iefr. " The additional chapters by Mr. Clark, containing as they do numerous example? of modern practice, bring the book well up to 6.aXe."—JSn£:i>ieering. 3 Statics, Graphic and Analytic. GRAPHIC AND ANALYTIC STATICS, in Theory and Com - panson: Their Practical Application to the Treatment of Stresses in Roots and other Frameworks. To which is added a Chapter on Wind Pressures. By R. Hudson Graham, C.E. With numerous Examples many taken from existinK Structures. Second Edition, Revised and Enlarged. 8vo, i6s. cloth. Graham's book will find a place wlierever graphic and analytic statics are used or stutlied. — hjt^itteer. "The work is excellent from a practical point of view, and has evidently been prepared with much care. The directions for working- are ample, and are illustrated by an abundance of well-selected examples. It is an excellent text-book for the practical draughtsman "— Strains, Formula' <£ Diagrams for Calculation of. A HANDY BOOK for the CALCULATION OF STRAINS IN GIRDERS AND SIMILAR STRUCTURES, AND THEIR STRENGTH. By William Humber, A M.I.CE., &c. Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo, nearly lOO Woodcuts and 3 Plates, 7s. 6d. cloth. " The fonnuUe are neatly expressed, and the diagrams good." — Athenceum. "We heartily commend this really I'.andy book to our engineer and architect readers ' - English Mechaftic. IlydrailUc Tables. HYDRAULIC TABLES, CO-EFFICIENTS, AND FOR- MULAE for Finding the Discharge of Water from Orifices, Notches, Weirs, Pipes, and Rivers. With New Formulae, Tables and General Infermatioii on Rainfall, Catchment-Basins, Drainage, Sewerage, Water Supply for Towns, and Mill Power. By John Ne%'ille, Civil Engineer, M.R.I.A Third Edition, carefully revised, with considerable Additions. Numerous Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 14s. cloth. " It is, of all Knglish books on the subject, the one nearest to completion. . . From the good arrangement of the matter, the clenr explanations, and abundance of form'ute the carefully-calcuhited tables, and, above all. the thorough acquaintance with both theory'and construction which is displayed from first to last, the book will be found to be an acquisition —Architecl. Hydraulics. HYDRAULIC MANUAL. Consisting of Working Tables and Explanatory Text. Intended as a Guide in Hydraulic Calculations and Field Operations. By Lowis D'A. Jackson. Fourth Edition Rewritten and Enlarged. Large crown 8vo, i6s. cloth. " From the great mass of material at his command the author has constructed a manml which n«y be accepted as a trustworthy guide to this branch of the engineer's profession ■We can heartily recommend this volume to all who desire to be acquainted with the latest de' velopment of this important subject." — Engineering. Tramivays and their Woi'Jcing. TRAMWAYS : THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND WORK- ING. Embracing a Comprehensive History of the System- with an exhaustive Analysis of the various Modes of Traction ; a Description of the Varieties of Rolling Stock ; and ample Details of Cost and Working Expenses. By D. Kinnear Clark, M. Inst. C.E. With over 200 Wood Engravings, and 13 Folding Plates. Two Vols., large crown 8vo qos cloth. ' ■ " All interested in tramways must refer to it, as aU railway engineers have turned to tht- author's work ' Railway Machinery.' "—/iK^i««r. " The best form of rails, the best mode of construction, and the best mechanical appliances are so fairly indicated in the work under review, that any engineer about to construct a tram way will be enabled at once to obtain the practical information which will be of most serrice to n\w."—.^(/ie/i(ettm. CROSBY LOCKWOOD &■ CO.'S CATALOGUE. Tables for Setting-out Curves. TABLES OF TANGENTIAL ANGLES AND MULTI- PLES for Setting-out Curves from 5 to 200 Radius. By Alexander Beazeley, M. Inst. C.E. Third Bdition. Printed on 48 Cards, and sold in a cloth box, waistcoat-pocket size, 3s. 6d. •• Each table is printed on a small card, which, being placed on ilic Theodolite, leaves the hands free to manipulate tlie instrument— no small advantage as rcyards llic rapidity ol w ork. l^ngineering Fieldwork. THE PRACTICE OF ENGINEERING FIELDWORK, applied to Land and Hydraulic, Hydrographic, and Submarine Surveying and Levelling. Second Edition, Revised, with considerable Additions, and a Supplement on Waterworks, Sewers, Sewage, and Irrigation. By W. Davis Haskolt., C.E. Numerous Folding Plates. In One Volume, demy 8vo, £1 ss. cloth. Large Tunnel Shafts. THE CONSTRUCTION OF LARGE TUNNEL SHAFTS : A Practicaland Theoretical Essay . By J. H. Watson Buck, M. Inst. C.E.,. Resident Engineer, London and North-Western Railway. Illustrated with Folding plates. Royal 8vo, 12s. cloth. "Will be regarded by civil engineers as of the utmost value, and calculated to save much time and obviate many mistakes."— C't'//z«'_v Guardian. Surveying. LAND AND MARINE SURVEYING, in reference to the Preparation of Plans for Roads and Railways, Canals, Rivers, Towns' Water Supplies ; Docks and Harbours ; with Description and Use of Sur- veying Instruments. By W. Davis Haskoi.l. Second Edition, revised with Additions. Large crown 8vo, with 13 Plates, 9s. cloth. [Just Published. Field-BooJc for Engineers. THE ENGINEER'S, MINING SURVEYOR'S, and CON- TRACTOR'S FIELD-BOOK. Contisting of a Series of Tables, with Rules, Explanations of Systems, and use of Theodolite for Traverse Surveying and Plotting the Work with minute accuracy by means of Straight Edge and Set Squaie only; Levelling with the Theodolite : Setting-out Curves without 1 heodolite, &c., &c. By W. Davis Haskoll, C.E. With numerous Woodcuts. Fourth Edition, Enlarged. Crown 8vo, I2S. cloth. •• The book is very handy, and the autlior might have added ih it the separate tables of sines and tangents to every niinute will make it useful for many oilier inirijoses, the genuine iraversij tables existing all the same." — yithe'iLenm. EartJnvorJc, Measurement and Calculation of. A MANUAL ON EARTHWORK. By Alex. J. S. Gkaham, C.E. With numerous Diagrams, ibmo, 2S. (sd. cloth. Strains. THE STRAINS ON STRUCTURES OF IRONWORK; with Practical Remarks on Iron Construction. By F. W. Sheilds, M. Inst. C.E. Second Edition, with 5 Plates. Royal 8vo, 5s. cloth. ■■ I he student cannot find a better book on this subject."— JSiri'itierr. Strength of Cast Iron, etc, A PRACTICAL ESSAY ON THE STRENGTH of CAST IRON AND OTH ER METALS. By Thomas Trkdgold, C.E. Fifth Edition, including Hodgkinson's Experimental Researches. 8vo, 12s. cloth. MECHANICS &- MECHANICAL ENGINEERING. 5 MECHANICS AND MECHANICAL ENGINEERING. Mechanic's Worhshop Companion. THE PRACTICAL MECHANIC'S WORKSHOP COM- PANION. Comprising a great variety of the most useful Rules and Formulae in Mechanical Science ; with numerous Tables of Practical Data and Calculated Results for facilitating Mechanical Operations. By W. Templeton, Author of "The Engineer's Practical Assistant." An Entirely New Edition, Revised, Modernised and considerably Enlarged by Walter S. Hutton, C.E. With upwards of 250 Illustrations. Fcap., 6s. leather. [ju^t publisheU. " It has met witli great success in the engineering workshop, as we can testify ; and there .are .1 great many men wlio, in a great measure, owe their rise iii Hfe to tliis little book."— Building NciL's. Engineer's and 3IachinisVs Assistant. The ENGINEER 'S, MILLWRIGHT'S, and MACHINIST'S PRACTICAL ASSISTANT. Comprising a collection of Useful Tables, Rules and Data. Compiled and Arranged, with Original Matter, by William Tempi.kton. Seventh Edition. Carefully Revised, with Additions. iSino, is. 6d, cloth. " A more suit.-ible prcM-iit to an apprentice to any of the mechanical trades could not possibly be niado. — Buildin^^ .Xcic;. Mechanics. THE HANDBOOK OF MECHANICS. By Dionysius Lardner, D.C.L., formerly Professor of Natural Philosophy and Astro- nomy in University College, London. New Edition, Edited and con- siderably Enlarged by Benjamin Loewy, F.R.A.S., &c. 378 Illustrations post 8vo, 6s. cloth. _ '■ The explanations tliroughout are studiously popular, and care has been taken to show ine application ot the various branches of pliysics to the industrial arts, and to the practica' business of hfe. —Miiiin!; yoiirnal. Turning. LATHE-WORK : A Pmctical Treatise on the Tools, Appliances, and Processes employed in the Art of Turning. By Paul N. Hasluck. Third Edition, Revised and Enlarged, Crown 8vo, 5s. cloth. \_Jmt piiblislied. "Written by a man wlio knows, not only how work ought to be done, but who also knows how to do It, and how to convey his knowledge to others. To all turners this book woukl be valuable. — L)i^i}tee>'iti<^. Iron and Steel. IRON AND STEEL : A Work for the Forge, Foundry, Factory, and Office. Containing ready, useful, and trustworthy Information for Ironmasters and their Stock-takers; Managers of Bar, Rail, Plate, and Sheet Rolling Mills; Iron and Metal Founders; Mechanical, Mining and Consuking Engineers, &c. &c. By Chas. Hoare. Eighth Edition, Revised and Enlarged. Oblong 32mo, leather, elastic band, 6s. •' For comprehensiveness the book has not its equal."— /?-<);;. " One of the best of tlie pocket books, and a useful companion in other branches of work iron and steel. —luis^lUh Mccliaiiic. Stone-worliing Machinery. STONE-WORKING MACHINERY, and the Rapid and Eco- nomical Conversion of Stone. With Hints on the Arrangement and Min- agementof Stone Works. By M. Powis Bale, M.I.M.E., A.M I C E With numerous Illustrations. Large crown «vo, gs. cloth. " The book slioukl be in tlie hands of every mason or student of stone-work."— CoW.ro' 1 6 CROSBY LOCKWOOD &> CO:S CATALOGUE. J'Jngineer's Reference Book. THE WORKS' MANAGER'S HANDBOOK OF MODERN RULES, TABLES, AND DATA. For Engineers, Millwrights, and Boiler Makers; Tool Makers. Machinists, and Metal Workers ; Iron and Brass Founders, &c. By W. S. Hutton, Civil and Mechanical Engineer. Third Edition, carefully Revised, with Additions. In One handsome Volume, medium 8vo, price 15s. strongly bound. IJ"^* published. Contents : Bevel, and Mortice 'Wheels— Warminf; and Ventilating— Weight of Iron, Steel, Brass, and various Metals and Materials. Also, The Indicator and Indicator Dia- grams—Various Memoranda for the Foundry and Workshop— Rules for the Weight ol C.Lsiings— Tlie New Patent Lawand Costs of Patents— Legal Memoranda— IJst of French IVords for English Engineering Terms- French and English Weights and Measures —And a variety of Modern Practical Infor- mation for Civil and Mechanical Engineers. j "The volume is an exceedingly useful one, brimful with engineers' notes, memoranda, and rules, and well ^vorthy of being on every mechanical engineer's bookshelf. ... 1 here is valuable information on every page"— MecJianicni World. "The information is precisely that likely to be required in practice. . . . The work forms a desirable addition to the library, not only of the works' manager, but of anyone con- \ iiected with general engineering."— ^i«i«ir 'yournal. i ■ "A formidable mass of facts and figures, readily accessible through an elaborate index Such a volume will be found absolutely ncccss.u v as a book of reference m all sorts S i.f 'works' connected with the metal trades. . . . Any ordinary foreman or workman cau I find all he wants in the crowded pages of this useful work. "- Ryland s Iron 1 rades ttrailar. Engineering Construction. PATTERN -MAKING : A Practical Treatise, embracing the i Main Types of Engineering Construction, together with the methods of i Estimating the Weight of Castings; to which is added an Appendix of i Tables for Workshop Reference. By a Foreman Pattern Maker. With upwards of Three Hundred and Seventy Illustrations. Crown 8vo, ys. 6d. cloth. [Jwst published. "A well-written technical guide, evidently written by a man who understands and has piactised what he has written about ; he says what he has to say in a plain, straightforward manner. We cordially recommend the treatise to engineering students, young journeymen, and others desirous of being initiated into the mysteries of pattern-making."— A'Ki'i'f/f?-. Smithes Tables for 3Iec7iaiiics, etc. TABLES, MEMORANDA, andCALCULATED RESULTS, FOR MECHANICS, ENGINEERS. ARCHITECTS, BUILDERS, &c. Selected and Arranged by Francis Smith. Third Edition, Revised and Enlarged, 250 pp., waistcoat-pocket size, is. 6d. limp leather. i [jf»st published. \ •• It would, perhaps, be as difficult to make a small pocket-book selection of notes and 1 formula; to suit ALL enyineers as it would be to maki; a universal medicine ; but Mr. Smin's waistcoat-pocket collection may be looked upon as a siicces-sfiil attempt."— i;;^iH«r. \ •• A veritable pocket treasury of knowledge.' —/rf//. I Mailivay Working. 1 SAFE RAILWAY WORKING. A Treatise on Railway Accidents: Their Cause and Prevention. With a Description of Modern Appliances and Systems. By Clement E. Stretton, C.E., Vice-Presi- dent and Consulting Engineer of the Amalgamated Society of Railway Servants. Crown 8vo, 4s. 6rf. cloth. {Just published. j "A very useful and instructive book, and one that will assist in bringiug before interested ' l>eople the requirements that arc necessary for the sale working of railways."— ./>/«t7ia«i<7it' liorM. Proportions and Rules for Modern Sta- tionary and Locomotive Engines— Lanca- shire, Cornish, Vertical, Return Tube, and I'ortable Engine Boilers— Chimneys— Water \V heels. Pumps, Pipes, Girders, Gearing, Shafting, and Millwork— Iron Foundry Work and Brass Work— Rules and Practical Data ] relating to the Strenath and Weight of j Metals and Materials— Iron and Brass Cast- ing-Cutting Metals— Wheel Cuttiivj— Screw (.anting— Wheel Gearing— Rope Gearing- Pulleys— Weight of Pulleys— Weight of Spur, 1 MECHANICS &- MECHANICAL ENGINEERING. 7 Chain Cables. CHAIN CABLES AND CHAINS. Comprising Sizes and Curves of Links, Studs, &c., Iron for Cables and Chains, Chain Cable and Chain Making, Forming and Welding Links, Strength of Cables and Chains, Certificates for Cables, Marking Cables, Prices of Chain Cables and Chains, Historical Notes, Acts of Parliament, Statutory Tests, Charges for Testing, List of Manufacturers of Cables, &c., &c. With numerous Tables, Illustrations and Lithographic Drawings. By Thomas W. Traill, C.E., R.N. Folio, £2 2S. cloth, bevelled boards. "Notliine- seems to be wanting- to make it a complete, handsome and standard work of reference on the subject of chain cables and diams."— Nautical Maj^azine. Steam Boilers. A TREATISE ON STEAM BOILERS : Their Strength, Con- struction, and Economical Woyking. By Robert Wilson C.E. Fifth Edition. i2mo, 6s. cloth. " The best treatise that has ever been published on steam boilers."— iTw^iw^sr. ■• The author sliows himself perfect master of liis subject, and we heartily recommend all employmg steam power to possess themselves of the work."— Jiyland's Jron Trades c ircular. Boiler Making. THE BOILER-MAKER'S READY RECKONER. With ) :xamples of Practical Geometry and Templating, for the Use of Platers, Smiths and Riveters. By John Courtney. Edited by D. K. Clark, M.I.C.E. Second Edition, with .Additions. lamo, 55. half-bound. ■' A reliable guide to the working boiler-maker."— /ro«. •• Uoiler-makers will readily recognise the value of this volume. The tabk!s are cle.irly prnited, and so arranged that they can be referred to with the greatest facility, so that they will l)e generally appreciated and much used."— Minings Joitrnal. Steam Engine. TEXT -BOOK ON THE STEAM ENGINE: With a Sup- plement on GAS ENGINES. By T. M. Goodeve, M.A., Barrister-at-Law, Author of "The Elements of Mechanism," &c. Eighth Edition, En- larged. Crown 8vo, 6s. cloth. '• Professor Goodeve has given us a treatise wliich will bear comparison with anything written by Hu.\ley or Maxwell, and we can award it no higlier praise."— yi«j.iTHe^,-. Portable Engine. THE PORTABLE ENGINE: Its Construction and Manage- ment. A Practical Manual for Owners and Users of Steam Engines generally. By W. D. Wansbrough. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. cloth. Ijfust published. " A very complete manual for users in the construction and management of steam e ng i ncs. "— .ff nilding- Keitis. Steam. THE SAFE USE OF STEAM. Containing Rules for Un- professional Steam-users. By an Engineer. Fifth Edition. Sewed, 6d. " If steam-users would but learn this little book by heart, boiler explosions would beconte sen-iaiions by their rarity." — English Mechanic. Coal and Speed Tables. A POCKET BOOK OF COAL AND SPEED TABLES, for Engineers and Steam-users. By Nelson Foley, Author of " Boiler Construction." Pocket-size, 3s. 6d. cloth ; 4s. leather. Gas Ligliting. COMMON SENSE FOR GAS-USERS: A Catechism 0/ Gas- lAjrhting for Householders, Gasfitters, Millowners, Architects, Engineers, etc. By Robert Wilson, C.E., Author of" A Treatise on Steam Boilers." Second Edition. Crown 8vo, sewed, with Folding Plates, 2S. 6d. 8 CROSBY LOCKIVOOD &■ CO.'S CATALOGUE. THE POPULAR WORKS OF MICHAEL REYNOLDS (Known as "The Engine Driver's Friend"). Locomotive-Engine Driving, LOCOMOTIVE-ENGINE DRIVING: A Practical Manual for Engineers in charge of Locomotive Engines. By Michael Reynolds, M.S.E., formerly Locomotive Inspector L. B. and S. C. R. Seventh Edition. Including a Key to the Locomotive Engine. With Illus- trations and Portrait of the Author. Crown 8vo, 4s. 6d, cloth. ■' Mr. Reynolds has supplied a want, and has supplied it well. We can confidently recommend the book, not only to the practical driver, but to everyone who takes an interest ill the performance of locomotive engines."— 7"A^ Engineer. " Mr. Reynolds has opened a new chapter in the literature of tlie day. Of the practical utility of Mr. Reynolds's book we have to speak in terms of warm connnendation."— yltheji(£tif}i. The Engineer, Fireman, and Engine-JBoy. THE MODEL LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEER, FIREMAN, and ENGINE-BOY. Comprising a Historical Notice of the Pioneer Locomotive Engines and their Inventors, with a project for the estab- lishment of Certificates of Qualification in the Running Service of Rail- ways. By Michael Reynolds, M S.E. With numerous Illustrations and a fine Portrait of George Stephenson. Crown 8vo, 4s. 6d. cloth. "From the technical knowledge of the author it will appeal to the railway man of to-day more forcibly than anything written by Dr. Smiles. . . . The volume contains information of a technical kind, and facts that every driver should be familiar with."— £n£-/is/t jUec/ianic: Stationary Engine Driving. STATIONARY ENGINE DRIVING : A Practical Manual for Engineers in Charge of Stationary Engines. By M. Reynolds. Third Edition, Enlarged. With Plates and Woodcuts. Cr. 8vo, 4s. 6rf. cloth. " The author is thoroughly acquainted with his subjects, and his advice on the various points treated is clear and practical. . . . He has produced a manual whicli is an exceedingly useful one for the class for whom it is specially intended." — Engineering;. " Our author leaves no stone unturned. He is determined that his readers sliall not only know something about the stationary engine, but all about it." — Engineer. Continuous Itailway Drakes. CONTINUOUS RAILWAY BRAKES: A Practical Treatise on the several Systems in Use in the United Kingdom; their Construction and Performance. With copious Illustrations and numerous Tables. By Michael Reynolds. Large crown 8vo, gs. cloth. • May be reconnnended to all wlio desire to study the subject of continuous brakes."— Irott. Engine-Driving Life. ENGINE-DRIVING LIFE; or, Stirring Adventures and Incidents in the Lives of Locomotive-Engine Drivers. By Michael Rey- nolds. Ninth Thousand. Crown 8vo, 2S. cloth. The book from first to last is perfectly fascinating. Wilkie Collins's most thrilling con- ceptions arc thrown into the shade by true incidents, endless in their variety, related in every page." — Korih British Mail. " Anyone who wishes to get a real insight into railway life cannot do better than read • Engine-Driving Life ' for hhuself ; and if he once take it up he will find that the author's enthusiasm and real love of the engine-driving profession will carry him on till he has read every page." — Saturday Review. Pocket Companion for Enginem^en. THE ENGINEMAN'S POCKET COMPANION, AND PRACTICAL EDUCATOR FOR ENGINEMEN, BOILER ATTEN- DANTS AND MECHANICS. By Michael Reynolds, Mem. S. E., Author of " Locomotive Engine-Driving,'' " Stationary Engine-Driving," &c. With Forty-five Illustrations and numerous Diagrams. Royal i8mo, 3s. 6d., strongly bound in cloth for pocKet wear. {jKst published 9 ARCHITECTURE, BUILDING, etc. Construction. THE SCIENCE OF BUILDING : An Elementary Treatise on the Principles of Construction. By E. Wyndham Tarn, M.A., Architect. Second Edition, Revised, with 58 Engravings. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. cloth. " A very valuable book, which we strongly recommend to all students."— iJi/ZA/^v. "No architectural student should be without this handbook of constructional knowledge. — Architect. Useful Text-Book for Architects. THE ARCHITECT'S GUIDE: Being a Text-Book of Useful Information for Architects, Engineers, Surveyors, Contractors. Clerks of Works, &c., &c. By Frederick Rogers, Architect. Second Edition, Re- vised and Enlarged. With numerous Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 6s. cloth. "As a text-book of useful information for architects, engineers, surveyors, &c., it would be hard to find a handier or more complete little volume." — Standard. "A young architect could hardly have a better guide-book."— 7Y;Hfe?- Trades Journal. Drawing for Builders and Students in Archi- tecture, PRACTICAL RULES ON DRAWING, for the Operative Builder and Young Student in A rchitecturc. By George Pvne. With 14 Plates. 4to, ys. td. boards. Tlte House-Oivnei^'s Estimator. THE HOUSE-OWNER'S ESTIMATOR ; or, What will it Cost to Build, Alter, or Repair ? A Price Book adapted to the Use of Unprofessional People, as well as for the Architectural Surveyor and Builder. By the late James D. Simon, A.R.I. B. A. Edited and Revised by Francis T. W. Miller, A.R.I. B. A. With numerous Illustrations. Third Edition, Revised. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. cloth. In two years it will repay its cost a hundred times over. ' — Field, " A very handy book." — English Mechanic. Designing, Measuring, and Valuing. THE STUDENTS GUIDE to the PRACTICE of MEASUR- ING AND VALUING ARTIFICERS' WORKS. Containing Directions for taking Dimensions, Abstracting the same, and bringing the Quantities into Bill, with Tables of Constants, and Copious Memoranda for the Valuation of Labour and Materials. With 8 Plates and 63 Woodcuts. Originally edited by Edward Dobson, Architect. Fifth Edition, Revised, with considerable Additions, by E. Wyndham iTarn, M.A. Crown Bvo, gs. cloth. " Well fulfils the promise of its title-pafife, and we can thoroughly recommend it to the class for whose use it has been compiled. Mr. Tarn's additions and revisions have much in- creased the usefulness of the work, and have especially augmented its value to students."— J^ngineering. " This edition will be found the most complete treatise on the principles of measuring and valuing artificers' work that has yet been published." — Building News. JfandbooJc of Specifications. THE HANDBOOK OF SPECIFICATIONS. By Professor T. L. Donaldson, late P.R.I. B. A., &c. New Edition. In One large Vol., 8vo, with upwards of 1,000 pages of Text, and 33 Plates. £1 lis. 6d. clotn. lo CROSBY LOCKWOOD &■ CO.'S CATALOGUE. l*oc7cet Estimator. THE POCKET EST IMA TOR for the BUILDING TRADES. By A. C. Beaton. Third Edition, carefully revised, 33 Woodcuts, leather waistcoat-pocket size, is. 6rf. " Contains a good deal of information not easily to be obtained from the ordinary price booics. Tile prices g-iven are accurate, and up to dMQ. "—Buildincr A'ews, HuiMer's cC Surveyor's Pocket Technical Guide. THE POCKET TECHNICAL GUIDE AND MEAS- URER FOR BUILDERS AND SURVEYORS. By A. C. Beaton. Second Edition, with 19 Woodcuts, leather, waistcoat-pocket size, is. 6(1. " An exceedingly handy pocket companion, thoroughly reliable."— if«i7r/<;; 'i Weekly Re- forter. Brides and Tiles. THE PRACTICAL BRICK AND TILE BOOK. Com- prising: I. A Rudimentary Treatise on Brick and Tile Making, by Edward DoBsoN, A.I.C.E., M.I.B.A. II. The Rudiments of Practical Bricklaying, by Adam Hammond. III. Brickwork: APractical Treatise on Bricklay- ing, Cutting and Setting, by F. Walker. lamo, 6s. strongly half-bound. lJust Published. CARPENTRY, TIMBER, etc. Tredgold's Carpentry, Enlarged by E. W. Tarn. THE ELEMENTARY PRINCIPLES OF CARPENTRY. A Treatise on the Pressure and Equilibrium of Timber Framing, the Resistance of Timber, and the Construction of Floors, Arches, Bridges, Roofs, Uniting Iron and Stone with Timber, &c. With numerous Tables of the Scantlings of Timber for different purposes, the Specific Gravities of Materials, &c. By Thomas Tredgold, C.E. Seventh Edition, thoroughly Revised and considerably Enlarged by E. Wyndham Tarn, M.A. With 61 Plates, Portrait of the Author, and several Woodcuts. In one large Vol., 410, price £1 5s. cloth. [_Jttst published. " Ought to be in every architect's and every builder's library." — Builder. "Tredgold's ' Elementary Principles of Carpentry ' is, without doubt, the standard English .nutliority upon the subject. Mr. Tarn, by supplementing the text of the author, adds much lo the work, and makes it an indispensable addition to the library of the student, the archi- tect, and the tngmGGr."—BicildiH^ News. tV oodworking Machinery. WOODWORKING MACHINERY : Its Rise, Progress, and Construction. Illustrated with Examples of Recent Designs by leading English, French, and American Engineers. By M. Powis Balb, A.M. Inst. C.E., M.I.M.E. Large crown 8vo, 12s. 6rf. cloth. "The most comprehensive compendium of wood-working machinery we have seen. The autlior is a thorough master of his subject." — Building News. Saiv Mills. SAW MILLS: Their Arrangement and Management, and the Economical Conversion of Timber. (Being a Companion Volume to the above.) By M. Powis Bale, A.M. Inst. C.E., M.I.M.E. With numerous Illustrations. Crown 8vo, los. 6rf. cloth. ■• We could not desire a more complete or practical Ue&l\s<:.'— Builder. CARPENTRY, etc.; MINING, etc. ii Carpentering. THE CARPENTERS NEW GUIDE. Comprising all the Elementary Principles essential for acquiring a knowledge of Carpentry. Founded on the late Peter Nicholson's Standard Work. A New- Edition, revised by Arthur Ashpitel, F.S.A. Together with Practical Rtles on Drawing, by George Pyne. With 74 Plates, 4to, £1 is. cloth. Timher MerchanPs Companion. THE TIMBER MERCHANT'S AND BUILDER'S COM- PA NION. Containing New and Copious Tables of the Reduced Weight and Measurement of Deals and Battens, of all sizes, from One to a Thousand Pieces, and the relative Price that each size bears per Lineal Foot to any given Price per Petersburg Standard Hundred; the Price per Cube Foot of Square Timber to any given Price per Load of 50 Feet, &c., &c. Also a variety of other valuable information. By William Dowsing, Timber Merchant. Third Edition, Revised and Corrected. Crown 8vo, 3s. cloth. '• We are glad to see a third edition of these admirable tables, which for correctnc;;s and simplicity of arrangement leave nothing to be desired."— Timder Trades yotirual. Practical Timber Merchant. THE PRACTICAL TIMBER MERCHANT. Being a Guide for the use ot Building Contractors, Surveyors, Builder.s, &c., comprising useful Tables for all purposes connected with the Timber Trade, Marks of Wood, Essay on the Strength of Timber, Remarks on the Growth of Timber, &c. By W. Richardson. Fcap. 8vo, 3s. 6(i. cloth. "To timber merchants or users this compact treatise will be found very useful."— ///;r.f- trated Carpenter. Tables for PacMng-Case Makers. PACKING-CASE TABLES; showing the number of Super- ficial Feet in Boxes or Packing-Cases, from six inches square and up- wards. By W. Richardson, Timber Broker. Second Edition. Oblong 4to, 3s. dd. cloth. " Will save much labour and calculation to makers and users of packing-cases."— Groav-. "Invaluable labour-saving ta.h\ei"— Ironmonger. Superficial Measurement. THE TRADESMAN'S GUIDE TO SUPERFICIAL MEA- SUREMENT. Tables calculated from i to 200 inches in length, by 1 to 108 inches in breadth. For the use of Architects, Surveyors, Engineers, Timber Merchants, Builders, &c. 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