B» M \^k ^^^^1. >^ -<^'V '^f^^-' Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from Research Library, The Getty Research Institute http://www.archive.org/details/cambriandirectorOOclif A CHART TO THE CAMBRIAN DIRECTORY. «.»(:. Coiinliii. M,l„. Br/I Inn,. OI,l,ns mofi worthy AUcntwn.-Rwm ^nd ,Mcd Er.Jgn. P'l'- '. Ck,„/l^ "7 Plough Hold Kins'.-Htid Crh'd'.^-G*ol-Pb».°a»«f.««ry-inc of Aln,r-S.,.,n-D«.vb,idB.. called Wcllg.te _ _ GloottBtf Garden Cliir,«Wollb.,y-Fl.xkyAbbcy-Chu,cl,.yard.,™ from 9-196 Lid..j . JH™<4 Bcalfon Arms c!oir-Chii;"-Pi"to°Scld', one ».ilo f™m C).epBo»-Llanca.. ClilT.-Wvo-Wooo.n hridg, Chrp8o» (B.,»«n C. and N. Cald«o. C.dle-Ca.rwcn. pavcm.n-Roin. of C.cUon) U.t-Ne« bridge -Calllo ^ Citdiff - L«d^ - C.rd.ffit.CatrpMir a^„t" A»g.l Boat-i-Heid C..rae-Gaol-B,idE=-TalF 18 Rnini of tbt Cathedral '^''"' niiTdi^kiniidoii.^Bei.vetnC.'^M.Pon. J>d) — — Myd,cr Tid.il - I'sLtTf.'"!" Ap "dirand Sine".,. l,«.,fall,-The Knole) Abbey-C.nie-Copper.i.ork. Pom Nuth Vythu. — SkiJa.dC.lllc - 3 ZI a1 'A"o„"°p">-jr - smaied orih°e"Bory-lo your wiv fee' O.nemouil, C»llle_0-™ith Bay-Peniice-King Arihnr'i «one By 0,fc™...h .=d f.»r Llantlly crofs tk= Eid.>t% -■" n 'X " : : clni!-Tin-»o,k.-Brid8eove,,h.To,.y — • = ~ ii Uaughanic T«b, - ft'^/ "bi'c-Lion' (Btuvcen 1."™" T.°Greeo bridge, a cerioo, excavirion in the roek) CalHe-Church-Rock.-Walk on the fandi and croft • • — 37 " = G.«n D.ag«™ - Ca01e-B.iJge-Sa.l roend Uilfotd Ha.en to Hubber«one, f.»tee« milei-BoOi, Mr. Metedith-j — 40 (Between T. and H. Catew Ca«le-landll,ipping Fcy-Piaon C.HIe) COIe-rrioty at the cvtt.tnity of the P.,r.,de ^ IZ n BUkLiori' — - . — so Fill6"'d C«dig» S! , S7 C.,J.s., Bl.Kfe.Lioa (VelinJ,e-AiLethr;Jbndge.tin.wotk,-KllgamnCallle-Follo«the-r,.itoC.fligan)Ca«le-Gaol-Cl.u,ch_St,Do2tniel'i Abbey. ne mile fro .Cardigan 60 S""™-""''"'™' ("B™\Tra°.rA!'Z;a';"",°anb,iJEer^alk,o.«d,~C.ni=-LeI7;in.. H ZI ZI H ZZ — '; Ha,^""'- zz h'woJ a™. . . '7 linlimm,, ««,«^ F.gk. - fhe hoefe ..hite 0»tn Glynd.r alembled hii pariiament-Dovey rlvet-Bndge 81 T.l)l,« (Bet.vcen M. and T.Dj«a> river) Caderldrli-Pool of Three Graini . s* Dolg.lly II p'om D°'. tTe°~.™™ in'reffing-Pleafa.t walk oTac faoJ,. a Jlikew.fc on tlTliill. over th77o»n ~ ZZ IZ ZI 86 H«°ch — Ca»le-A golden torqo.id.g up btre.i. the ,<.rl6.,a . — . — 50 Tjn.)-b«lchb)DiiIgclly« d r.iii T.r.y-Ukh (Between Dolgelly and Tan-y-b«Icb. the falU of DoU-y-myllln-Cyne-MoJd.cb) Vale of Felliniog-Tan y.bwich h.ll-R,.er Dry,, . .00 C„r..,r,„ (BeiwcenT. and B.Pont-aber-gliByn-Copper mine.) River Glallyn — .OJ Llmbcni. o.tr Sm^doo Near C.-Biver Rhyddol-Bridge-CaBle-Wyihwa, tnoontain-Religio.i fe« called Jnmperi . Plu-No.°°dd J.c¥o The Menai-Lord Uxbrjdge-Crnmlechi G™rg.ondD,as«" Viewfromtheehurch.yard^Catbedral-Cror.ibeMenaitoBea.mari.-BaronHm Bull and Harp (Between C. and B.C.nie of Pen,hvn-Pen-n,.wn.mawr)C.«le-Chureh-ColleEe Abtrgtk D„l,,i . . .-1 Si. Afipb n.:ii.,. Wbile-Lion (Bcnvcen A.andS<.A.Rh«ddlaiiMar(h_Ci«le— Ri.erClwyd) ValeolClwyd-CatheJral . D»bigh RulkiB ""*■;' C°of,.Kcy, ( c'euv^n D°md R. "well of StT'Dyfnog) Callle-Cherch-Gaol-taiiiig.greenZvalc of Clw^ — — i Eaglts Chn.th-Oira'.Dyke-Erthig.thefeatofP. Vork.Efq.-ChnrchofMarchwiel . Ro'lbor — Wynllay park-ObeliOt-OITa'. Dyke . . Lh.goll™ — H»»d (8et.veen R. and L. Pontcyfyllly-Rivet Dee) Bridge over the Dee-CaBle Dini. Bran-Lady E. Bullets Collage— Valle Cruci.-P.Ila of Elifeg OtwoJry V.„,jl.„ (Eenveen L. and O. Cbirk CaBIe-Whittington) Ruin, of a eh.pel-Callle M..,i„„, Royal-Oak wyri.er- D»go. . Calllt and Gaol-Ellefmere canal . . 163 Bilbop-.C.rUe St„fp„„ Cadlc H..,f^i Cro«i, Callle-Cbufch-Crofi-Walki round the CiUlewall.-Bridsc-Teme rivet . . 165 RtJ.Lion New Inn - Rof. h' ih„,„i Mar, of Rof. Llm.th_V.ew frcn, ■■ The Profpea"-Willon Ca«le-Bridge-Wye 177 Cfccpllo.. n corruption fron, Wye CblT) _ _ _ _ ' _ _ _ ' — '— ,-„6 ,. ■-.„.,. ,.IN,.., ,„o...l..e,, ,.t.....T. ..11. THB CAMBRIAN DIRECTORY, OR, CURSORY SKETCHES OF THE WELSH TERRITORIES. WITH A CHART, Comprehending at one View, 71^0 ad'vi/able RouU^^BeJi Inns — Dijiances — and Objiiis moft Ivor thy of Attention » Authors, you know, of greateft fame. Thro' modefty fupprefs their name j And, wou'd you wifh me to reveal What thefe fuperior Wits conceal ? All my ambition is, I own. To profit, and to pleafe, unknown, Vifiom in Verfi, SECOND EDITION. PRINTED AND SOLD BY J. BASTON, HIGH-STREET| SOLD ALSO BY T, HURST, PATER-NOSTER-ROW, LONDON. 1801. TO THE FRIENDLY AND TRULY HOSPITABLE INHABITANTS OP THE PRINCIPALITY OF WALES, THSSS Cursor? ^Mttit9i, ARE RESPECTFULLY AND GRATEFULLY DEDICATED, BY TO TH2 INHABITANTS OF THE PRINCIPALITY OF WALES. XxS Dedications and Prefaces are confidered proper avant couriers to a Work, the omiflion of either might be deemed an eflential breach of literary decorum :— I profefs myfelf an Old Bachelor, and am confequently anxious that all minutiae fhould be properly attended to. It is generally cuftomary in Dedications, to folicit the patronage of an individual ; but, as thefe Curfory Sketches will fully prove, I by no means always purfue the common beaten track, truft VIU DEDICATION. truft it will not be thought too prefumptuous, ad- drefling myfelf to Pluralities, and therefore hum- bly to requeft permiflion, that the Cambriam Directory may be looked upon as a Ward of the Welfh in general : for I can with fafety affirm, in no country will the Tourill experi- ence more true hofpitality and friendly atten- tion, than in the Principality of Wales ; I there- fore with true refped and gratitude, beg leave to fubfcribe myfelf. Gentlemen, Your much obliged And moft obedient Humble Servant, The Author. PRE- ^aooo€i^cx>oo PREFACE X* AULTS, in the following Work, I readily allow, there are nriany, many; but, flatter my- felf, thofe who are beft able to difcover, will be moil ready to pardon them. Tours or Jour- nals, are now hackneyed fubje8;s ; and, though this may be confidered as a trite apology, and (if I may fo exprefs myfelf) an Author's loop- hole, yet I can moft truly aiTert, the prefent Obfervations were by no means at firft intended to be fcanned by the public eye; but merely made for my own private amufement, as a memento, to have accefs to, when I wilhed to " breathe delight from RecoUedion's power;** my Remarks, therefore, were only fuch as any Traveller, an admirer of Nature, would with a pencil briefly put down ; and I muft beg leave again to repeat, I had not then the moft diftant thought PREFACE, thought of appearing at the bar of the Public. On my return^ I naturally placed my Obferva- tions in a more conneQed form ; and /bm(? time afttrward^i accidentally converfing with my Bookfeller, on the romantic beauties of Wales, and (hewing hiin a few of my Notes, was per- fuaded to prepare them for the prefs ; in confe- quence of which, I am now embarking on the literary ocean ; and, as a candid behaviour ought to be preferred to all other confiderations, be^ fore I fail on my cruize, beg leave to declare, that it is not the intention of the following fheets, either to rival the lively and impreffive de- fcriptions of a Wyndham or a Warner, — to contend with the literary and hiftorical anec- dotes of a Pennant, — or to equal the mine- ralogical ftudies of an Aikin : and here I can- didly acknowledge, when attempting a defcrip- tion of Monmouthfhire, I found myfelf not a little intimidated, by the intended, and anxi- oufly expefted publication of that county, by a Gendeman,* highly claffed in the hterary world, • The Rev. William Coxa, re£tor of Bemerton, and domeftic chaplain to the Lord Bifliop of Saliibury, for PREFACE. XI for many celebrated produ6lions ; confcious of my own inability to do ample juftice to that pi6lurefque county, and particularly the rich fcenery of the Wye, when it is already in fuch able hands : I beg from true refpe8: and efteem^ to apply to him the following pafTage : Oh, while along the Hream of time, thy name Expanded flies, and gathers all its fame. Say, fhall my little bark attendant fail, Purfue the triumph, and partake the gale ? The Cambrian Directory, is therefore given to the Public, as a common liinerajy ; nor does it pre fume to have difcovered any thing unknown to the fage Antiquarian, — the deep Mineralogift,- — and the buftling Traveller : flill, however, the Author flatters himfelf, it may be fo far ufeful to the Public, that the Traveller will find it a convenient Pocket Companion ; it will tell him the bejl InnSy and lay before him in one view, the Dijlances; the Mineralogift may occafionally learn, what Rocks will mofl de- ferve his attention j and it will point out to the Anti- XU PREFACE, Antiquarian, every venerable Ruin, that feems to tell the religious or military Hiftory of the Country. Such is the " plain unvarnifh*d tale:" in addition to which, I folicit permiflion to ad- drefs my Readers with a line from a favourite Author : *' Laugh where you muji, be candid where you can.** 1\i% t»^^i^<>^^^0^^««^^<3»-*«* TH« CAMBRIAN DIRECTORY, THESE ARE THE HAUNTS OF MEDITATION, THESE THE SCENES WHERE ANCIENT BARDS TH' INSPIRING BREATH EXTATIC FELT! X WO Friends, equally admirers of Nature's land- fcapes, and attached to pedeftrian independence, agreed to vifit the wild and impreilive fcenery of the Cambrian Mountains ; and the outlines of their Route being ar- ranged, faliied forth in the month of July, 1798, from CHELTENHAM, a place much reforted to during the fummer months, and celebrated for its mineral waters, compofed of B one THE CAMBRIAH one ftreet, in almoft a ftraight line, nearly the length of a mile. Since it has become a place of fafhion, the lodging houfes have been confiderably improved, and rendered comfortable for the company, who make this place their fummer refidence. The feafon ufually commences about May, and frequently continues till the beginning of November. The majority of the company who frequent Cheltenham, refort here not fo much for the purpofe of water-drinkrng, as to enjoy the delightful walks and rides, and partake of the fociability of the neighbourhood. The walk at the pump-room, well planned, and kept in excellent order, is planted on each fide with limes ; at the end is a fmall fquare, where the pump is fituate, with a room on the left for the accommodation of the company to promenade, meafuring fixty-fix feet by twenty-three ; — on the oppofite fide a reading- room, with a billiard-table over, and a houfe, the refi- dence of the attendant at the Spa ; beyond that, is a fimilar walk of three hundred and twelve feet, which leads to another ferpentine walk ; from the end of this, the fpire of Cheltenham church forms a beautiful object. Near thefe walks, ftands, on an eminence, the feat of the Earl of Fauconberg : this was the royal refidence during their Majefties ftay at this place, from July 12, to Auguft i6, 1788. In DIRECTORY. 3 In refped to the rides, Cleave-hlU, Dowdefwell, 6cc, Tewkefbury, and Glocefter, are moft admired. Speaking of the hiftory of the place, we find Chel- tenham was a town in the reign of William the Con- queror : Edward likewife is fuppofed to have marched through it, before he encamped his army on the field of Tewkefbury, previous to the battle of the houfes of York and Lancafter. Of the efficacy of the water, to which this town is indebted for its prefent celebrity, I refer my readers to a treatife, publiihed by Dr. Fothcrgill, of Bath, GLOCESTER. The pin manufactory was eflablifhed here, by John Tifley, in the year 1626, and the bufinefs is now be- come fo extenfive, that the returns from London alone are eflimated at near twenty thoufand pounds per ann» Before the introduction of pins into England, (1543) (kewers of brafs, filver, and gold, and likewife thorns curioufly fcraped, called by the Welch women p/«- draen^ were ufed, Though the pins themfelves are ap- parently fimple, yet their manufacture is not a little curious and complex. The wire in its moft rough B 2 itate THE CAMBRIAN ftate Is brought from a wire company in the neighbour- hood of Briftol : till the year 1563, Englifh iron wire was drawn out by manual ftrength. The firft opera- tion attending this curious procefs, is the fixing the circular roll of wire to the circumference of a wheel, which in its rotation throwing the wire againft a board, with great violence, takes off the black external coat : vitriol is next applied to bring the brafs to its common colour. The brafs wire being too thick for the purpofe of being cut into pins, is reduced to any dimenfion the workman pleafes, by forcibly drawing it through an orifice in a fteel plate, of a fmaller diameter. The wire, being thus reduced to its proper dimenfions, is next llraightened : it is then cut into portions of fix inches in length, and afterwards to the fize of the pin, and each piece refpecSlively fharpened on a grinding-ftone, turned by a wheel. We now come to a diftindt branch of the manufactory: the forming the heads, or, as the workmen term it, head fplnning: this is accomplifhed by means of a fpinning-wheel, which, with aftoniftiing rapidity winds the wire round a fmall rod : this, when drawn out, leaves a hollow tube between the circumvo- lutions; every two circumvolutions, or turns, being cut with fheers, form one head. The heads, thus formed, are diftributed to children, who, with great dexterity, by the afliftance of an anvil, or hammer, worked by the foot, fix the point and the head together. The DIRECTORY, The pins, thus formed, are boiled in a copper, con- taining a folution of block-tin pulverized, and the lees of Port ; and by this laft procefs, it changes its yellow brafly colour, and aiTumes the appearance of filver, or tin. The labourers are all paid according to the weight of their work. Near Glocefter, at the fmall ifland of Alney, formed by the river Severn, dividing itfelf into two branches, hiftorians relate, that Canute and Edmund, after many bloody engagements in EfTex, determined to prevent a farther efFufion of blood by a Tingle combat. Neither, however, as the ftory relates, obtaining a vi<5tory, peace was concluded, and the kingdom divided betv^^een them. We paid, however, little regard to the fuppofed place of this conteft, as it was not for us, puifne antiqua- rians, to difcufs points, on which the greateft hiftorians had fo materially differed. I forbear to make any remarks on the cathedral and gaol of Glocefter, as much has already been done to- wards their illuftration ; and as ample accounts of them are given in the Glocefter Guides which the tourift will meet with on the fpot. The walk from hence to B % V/EST- THE CAMBRIAM WESTBURY, is by no means uninterefting ; the country is ftudded with half-feen villas, and animated with churches, whilft the retrofpe£t commands a fine view of Robin- hood^s Hill, with the dark tower of Glocefter cathe- dral, juft rifing in the perfpedlive. At Weftbury is the feat of Maynard Colchefter, Efq, The church, with a detached fpire, ftands clofe to the houfe. Near this place mineralogifts will be highly gratified by vifiting a cliiF, called Garden^ or Golden CUffe-y which is moft beautifully encrufted with mun- dic and cryftals. This rock, flanding clofe to the Severn, is only acceflible at the reflux of the tide; and when illuminated by the fun wears a moft beautiful appearance. Between Weftbury and Newnham, in an extremely delightful valley, bordering on the foreft of Deane, is {ituate FLAXLEY ABBEY, the feat of Sir Thomas Crawley Bovey. This valley was formerly called Cajilard^ or the Happy Valley \ and DIRECTORY. and a monaftery, for Ciftercian Monks, was founded here by Roger, the fecond Earl of Hereford, and the charter confirmed by Henry II. The abbey was ftand» ing till the year 1777, when part of it was unfor- tunately confumed by fire^ fince that a confiderable portion of building has been added, and is become a very defirable fummer refidence. The views from the park, behind the houfe, are very extenfive, commanding the vale of Glocefter, and the river Severn, gay with vefTels; whilft the extenfive foreft of Dean, and Flaxley Abbey, form nearer obje£ls for admiration. This wood abounds with the moft charming walks j and, while it affords refrefhing fhelter from a fummer's fun, admits partial views of the adjacent country. Camden, in fpeaking of the foreft of Dean, derives its name from Ardene^ a wood, in the Gaulic and Britifh languages. It lies between the two rivers Severn and Wye, and contains thirty thoufand acres. The foil is well adapted for the growth of oaks, and foreft timber j and the fituation particularly commodious for exporting it for fhip-building, and other purpofes. The immenfe quan- tities of wood annually felled for the ufeof the navy, have fo thinned this wood of its timber, that it is now preferved till a certain growth, by ad of parliament* Camden obferves, that the oak of this foreft was fo confiderable^ that the Spanifh armada had orders to B 4 deftroy 8 THE CAMBRIAN 'I ■ I II I t - '' ' 'H' deftroy the timber of it in 1588 : it fufFered confidefa- bly in the great rebellion* The iron manufadlory has long been carried on in this foreft ; and to this day immenfe beds of iron cin^. ders are found, the reliques of the Romans. Thefe cinders are not half exhaufled of their ore, and are con- sequently worked over again : a proof that the Romans knew only the weak power of the foot blaft. As we drew near NEWNHAM, the Severn became more confiderable. The townj fituated on the banks of the river, and backed by the foreft of Dean, is very ancient, and in 1018 this manor was granted by King Canute to the Benedidtine abbey of Per fhore, in Worcelterihire,* The church-yard affords a variety of objedls worthy the attention of the paffing ftranger, amongft which the church of Weftbury forms the moft confpicuous fea* lure in the landfcape*. ♦ ^kins'i Glocefierfoiri, The DIRECTOTIV, g The view, previous to our defcending the hill td LIDNEY, IS extenfive and beautiful. In this place iron works are carried on by a Mr. Pitchcock. — About a mile from Lidney, the Old Paflage, — King's-road, with the merchant (hips lying off Briftol, — Glocefterfhire and Somerfetfliire hills, ftudded with gentlemens' feats^ churches, and half-feen cottages, formed a chearful landfcape. CHEPSTOW. The weather prevented our feeing the celebrated walks of Pierceheld, but we promifed ourfelves the pleafure of vifiting them on our return down the Wye. The caftle of Chepftow, called Kafv/ent, or Caftelk Gwent, ftands on a rock wafiied by the river Wye, near its influx into the Severn. Topographical writers differ in their accounts concerning the antiquity of the caftle, but it is generally fuppofed to have been built at the fame time with the town, appearing at that period to have been a kind of citadel to Chepftow.* ♦ Cro/e^s ^;;U^mtieSt The lO THE CAMBRIAN The caftle was formerly of great extent, as, according to Leland's account, the " waulks began at the end of « the great bridge bver Wy," yet <' in the caftel ys one <« tower, as I heard fay, by the name of Langine." Little now remains of its former grandeur : but, im- pelled by an irrefidible curiofity, we afcended the de- cayed fteps of the tower, from whence the eye traced with pleafure the windings of the Wye, till it was at lad: lolt in its conjundion with the Severn. With horror we examined the dark dungeon, where Henry Martin, one of the twelve judges, who fat to condemn Charles I. was confined feven and twenty years. Grand views of the Briftol Channel ftill continued to form interefting objedls from the road ; but about three miles from Chepftow, we turned into feme fields on the right, to examine the ivy-mantled walls of CALDECOT CASTLE. On our firfl: entrance, we gazed with that wrapt aftonifhment, that fears to difturb, or be difturbed, by the mutual communication of thought. — Mr. Warner, in his furvey of this ruin, was much difappointed ; but I cannot help allowing, although the view from it was inferior to Chepftow, yet its antiquated walls wear a nobler DIRECTORY. H nobler appearance ; and the gloom that reigns around it, forces a figh, and evinces the tranfitory nature of fublunary greatnefs. The antiquity of the building is very obfcure : it is fituate on a flat, and memorable for the birth of Henry VII. PafTing through the village of Caldecot, we foon entered CAERWENT, on the weflern fide, through the broken fragments of its u^alls, of vi^hich one immenfe mafs has recently fallen. This ancient town is now little more than a village, with a few fcattered cottages, but formerly ce- lebrated, under the aufpices of Agricola, for its temples, theatre, porticoes, and baths j few veftiges of its for- mer fplendour are now extant. A few fragments of loofe ftones only remain to point out its former ex- tent. In an orchard, adjoining a farm-houfe be- longing to Mr. Lewis, is the beautiful tefTalated Ro- man pavement, difcovered in the year 1777. The tefTerae or dies, about an inch in breadth, and half in depth, are nearly cubical, confiding of four colours, red, yellow, blue, and white,* which are ftill in great prefervation j the whole is furrounded with a border, much refembling a Turkey carpet. The daily depre« • fVarner's Firji iVilk tbrcugb mUi, dations 12 THE CAMBRIAN dations on thefe curious remains of antiquity are greatly to be lamented. In the road from Caerwent, amongfl other objedls for admiration, the manfion of Sir Robert Salifbury, on the left, commanding an extenfive view, attradled our notice. Palling through the neat village of ChrLft- church, animated vi^ith white- vi^afhed cottages, and graced with its fimple church, which ftands on an eminence, we left the turnpike road, at the thirteenth tnile done; and following a footpath through fome fields, near the banks of the Ufke, foon entered the au- tient city of CAERLEON, over a wooden bridge, built on the fame plan as Chep-^ How. This city was formerly a metropolitan fee, but St» David, the national faint of Wales, thinking the noify intercourfe of a populous city, like Caer-Lleotty ill adapted for contemplation, or the folitary caft of his mind, removed it to Menevia, which from that period has been called Ty Dewt by the Welch, and St. David by the Englifh.* The remains of its ancient grandeur • He was buried In the cathedral church of St, David, and many Ikundr^ years after canonized by Pope Califtus the Second,— .Gcenury, yet they enjoy the two ineftimable bleiTmgs, health and felicity. The broken towers of KILGERRAN CASTLE, foon attradled our notice. The relicks of this ruin ftand on a point of rock, impending over the river Tyvi, whofe beauty time had only impaired, to heighten its grandeur. Two imperfeft circular towers, and the fragments of a wall, now only remain. The river Tyvi, I imagine, abounds with fifh, as we obferved at every door, in the village of Kilgerran, a coracle.* Ths conftrudtion of this little water conveyance is remark- ably fimple, and intended folely for the ufe of fifhing : a thick fkin, or coarfe pitched canvas, is ftretched over • It receiyes its name from coriunty a hide, or ikin. DIRECTORY. gg wicker-work. This fingular fifhing-boat conveys only one man, who manages it with the greateft adroitnefs imaginable J the right hand being employed in ufing the paddle, the -left in conducing the net, and ihe teeth in holding the line. Two coracles generally co- operate, to aflift each other in fifhing : they ufually meafure about ii^-e feet long, and four broad, and rounded at the corners ; and, after the labours of the day, are conveyed, on the back, to the little cot of the fifherman, which is looked upon as a necefTary appen- dage to the cottage door. Defcription can fcarcely fuggeft the full magnifi- cence and beauty of the faunter from hence to Cardi- gan : the valley, about two miles in extent, feemed to poffefs all that Nature inherits ; floping hills, two hun- dred feet high, covered with wood, from the w^ater's edge, to their higheft fummit, and at the moft accep- table diftances, and truly happy fituations, interrupted by a bold, naked, and proje<3:ing rock : whilft the broad and tranflucid ftream of the Tyvi refle61s, as in a mir- ror, the blacknefs of the impending fhades. The re- trofpecl commands the romantic ruins of Kilgerran Caftle, whofe mutilated walls clofe this delicious land- fcape. The whole valley bears a ftrong refemblance to the fituation of the celebrated Piercefield. As this (pot is entirely loft, by keeping the turnpike road, it is advi* 6o THE CAMBRIAN advifable for travellers, in general, to hire a boat from Cardigan to Kilgerran : this, our humble, and lefs-en- cumbered mode of travelling rendered unneceffary. At Llechryd, not far from Kilgerran, extenfive tin-works are carried on by Sir Benjamin Hamet. Having already examined works of this nature at Neath, we preferred the romantic vale of Kilgerran j as to accomplifh both, would have occupied too much time. We entered the town of CARDIGAN, over a handfome ftone-bridge, built over the Tyvl, which is here of confiderable width. In front of this ftands, on a fteep eminence, the caftle, confifting chiefly of its outer walls, which prove it to have been once a confiderable building. This place, confidered the principal town of the county, is called by the Britons ^bertuvi'y which name it receives from ftanding near the mouth of the river Tyvi, It was fortified, together with the caftle, by Gilbert, fon of Richard Clare, and demolifhed by Rhees ap Gryffith, The DIRECTORY. 6l The town is large, and regular; its chief trade con» fifting in lead, exported to Ireland. The church is large, and well built, with a handfome tower. The new gaol, finiflied in 1797, is conveniently fituatcd^ and appears to be a well-planned building. One mile from Cardigan is ST.DOGMAEL's ABBEY, called, by Leland,* a " Priory of Bonhommes." The Monajiicon places this houfe amongftrthe Benedidines; but it was that flridl and reformed fort of Benedidines, called the order of Tiron, founded by Martin of Tours^ who conquered the country of Cemmeis, about the time of King William the Conqueror. Part of the ruins is now converted into a chapel, for the convenience of the vicinity. At the fecond mile ftone, in our road from Cardigan^ to the village of LLANARTH, we halted a fhort time, to take a rctrofpe^t of the ♦ it'n:, vol, V, p. xir, country 6j2 the CAMBRIAN ' l-^::^-^^!^:^!^^' .'. ' : ' '* ' ■■■"' - ■ - ■ I -'■■- ' 'l. ' . N " ■ ' ■" ■ •• ' " ■ '— »»i '> ' ■ ^ .: country we had paffed. From this fpot, the town and caftJe of Cardigan, {landing on an eminence, in the centre of a broad valley, and encircled with hills, beau- tifully introduced themfelves to our view. From hence to ABERAERON, grand fea profpe^ts continued to enliven our route ;-^ whilft the faint and ftill fainter hues of the coaft of Ireland appeared juft vifibly Ikirting the diflant ho- r izon. Aberaeron is fituated in a vale, near the conflux of the river Aeron with the fea: from whence it receives its name 3 Jber fignifying the mouth of any thing. The entrenchment, mentioned by Sael, in his Col- le£fion of Tours, about a mile from Aberaeron, is nov^ almoft waflied away, by the daily encroachments of the fea. We lamented, that the Druidical fepulchral mo- numents, mentioned by the fame Author, were inad- vertently paffed unnoticed by us. In this day's journey, we ftill continued to indulge the fublime emotions, which an unconfined view of the ocean DIRECTORY, 63 ocean always infpires; a ferene day, with partial gleams of. funfhine, gave magical eiFecSls to the fcenery 5 and the fea was enlivened with many a vefTel, paffing each other in various direcSlions, and contributing to render the terrific ocean beautiful. Before us, the towering mountains of Merionethfhire glittered in all thofe co- lours of beauty, which conftitute the fublime ; and we appeared only to climb one hill, to view others ftill ri» fing in endlefs perfpe6live ; over the whole was difFufed the rich glow of evening ; and the diftant mountains were variegated by the parting tinge of lingering day. A neat church, backed by romantic hills, animated the village of Llanryfted. Three miles from ABERYSTWITH, we paufed at Llanryan Bridge, to admire the rich banks rifing on each fide of the river Yflwith, over which this bridge is thrown ; it is built in the i\yh of the ce- lebrated Pont y prydd, in the vale of Glamorganfhire. We entered the town of Aberyftwith, over a temporary wooden bridge.* In the year 1796, a ftone bridge ex- perienced the fame fate with many others in Wales, occafioned by a fudden thaw : Mr. Edwards, from Dol- • Over the river Rhyddol. gelly 64 THE CAMBRIAN ■•--?-'•• "'"'■^"" ■"'■■■ • ' "' ' I a gelly is now engaged in ere£ling another, by contra6t, confifling of fix arches. Aberyftwith, partaking much of the dirt of fea- ports in general, is fituated at the termination of the vale of Rhyddol, in the bay of Cardigan, and open to St. George's Channel. The environs are ftony and rugged ; the coaft affords indifferent bath^ ing being much expofed j and the fhore rough and unpleafant. In fine, it is, in almofl all refpe6ls, the reverfe of Tenby, except it has the advantage in the number of houfes, and, confequently, mose company. At the extremity of the town, upon an eminence, fland the ruins of an ancient caflle, of which little now re- mains but a folitary tower, overlooking a wide expanfe of fea. It was rendered famous, by being, at one time^ the refidencc of the great Cadwalader, and in all the Welch wars confidered as a fortrefs of great flrength ; it was built by Gilbert Strongbow, 1 107, and rebuilt by Edward 1. in 1277, a few years before his complete conqueft of Wales. The ruin of the caftle now affords a pleafant walk. But what formerly rendered this town more confi« derable were the rich lead mines in its vicinity. Thefe mines are faid to have yielded near a hundred ounces of filver from a ton of lead, and to have produced a profit DIRECTORY. ^5 profit of two thoufand pounds a month. Sir Hugh Middleton here made the vaft fortune, which he after- wards expended on the New River, conft:ru(5ted for the purpofe of fupplying the northern fide of London with water. But Thomas Bufhell raifed thefe mines to their greateft height : an indenture was granted to him by Charles 1. for the coining of filver pieces, to be ftamped with oftrich feathers, on both fides, for the benefit of paying his workmen. This gentJeman was afterwards appointed governor of Lundy Ifle. The mofl conft- derable lead mine was that of Bwlch-yr-£(kir-his, dif- covered in 1690. The ore was here fo near the fur- face, that the mofs and grafs in fome places fcarcely covered it. Clofe to the fcite of the old caftle, Mr. Uvedale Price, of Foxley in Hereford (hire, has ereded a fantaftic houfe in thecaftellated form, intended merely asafum- mer refidence. Mr. Nafh, of Caermarthen, was the architect; it confifts of three o£lagon towers, with a balcony towards the fea. The rooms are well con- trived, and elegantly furnifhed ; the windows command an unlimited view of St. George's Channel j and the dilapidated fragments of the caftle, are from hence viewed to great advantage. We determined to purfue the banks of the meander- F ing 65 THE CAMBRIAN i " 11 I i I II 11 I ' ing Rhyddol, in preference to the turnpike road, ia our way to Havod. This valley comprehends every thing that confti- tutes the beautiful : it is enclofed by high mountains on each fide, vegetating to their fummits; indeed, all the tints of verdure and diverfity of foliage, here introduce therafelves in one view; the Rhyddol ftruggling with the huge maflesof rock,—its never-ceafing, tumultuous motion,— its fparkling foam ;■— in fine, every thing that can be imagined, by the moft enthufiaftic admirer of nature, is blended in this fhort excurfion :— -*' is not this vale " More free from peril than the envious courts ? *' Here feel we but the penalty of Adam, ** The feafon*s difference, as the icy fang " And churlifh chiding of the winter's wind.** Shaxsfeare* To the inquifitive pedeftrian, (for this vale is inac- ceflible for carriages,) the old church of Llanbadem Vawr, which fignifies The church of Great Paternus^ 2l native of Bretagne, is particularly interefting ; who, as the Writer of his Life expreffes it, " by feeding gd- *< verned, and by governing fed the church of Cre- «« tica," To his memory this church, and formerly an DIRECTORY. Bj *an epifcopal fee, was founded : but the bifhopric, as Roger Hoveden writes, <' early declined, becaufe the «' pariftiioners flew their paftor.* As we drew near the DEVIL'S BRIDGE, a long chain of mountains excited our admiration, en* circled half way down with a thick mift, fimilar in ap- pearance to a girdle : this circumftance feems to juftify the bold imaginary, and beautiful defcription of a mountain given by the Poet : " As feme tall cliff that lifts its awful form " Swells from the vale, and midway leaves the ftorm ; •* Though round its breaft the rolling clouds are fpread, ** Eternal funfhine fettles on its head.'* Goldsmith, The comfortable inn,fituated near this romantic fpot, ftands in front of the river Rhyddol, and commanding the moft'pidurefque view fancy can paint, was built by the refpedable and truly hofpitable owner of Havod. ♦ The additions to Camden^ 1695, fuppofe this, Bifliop idnert, F 2 This 68 THE CAMBRIAN ■ ■ ' ■ ■ ■ _■ * . ' ■ ' II * This celebrated bridge, fo much the obje£l of cu- riofity and admiration, is fo completely environed with trees, that many travellers, not intent upon deep invef- tigation, or in purfuit of nature's landfcapes, may pafs over it, without the leaft fufpicion of the dreadful aper- ture, or the ancient ftrudure, that conveys them over the gulf. On the eaftern fide we defcended a fteep, and treacherous bank, confifting of flate rock, or la- minae, I fhould imagine, near a hundred feet : this is the computed meafurement ; but the eye, confufed by the awfulnefs of the fcene, lofes its faculty of judging. From this fpot, the vaft chine, or chafm, over which the bridge is thrown, is feen to great advantage : the whole of this fifTure was probably occafioned by fome convulfion of nature, as each indenture feems to cor- refpond with the oppofite protuberance. Under the bridge, the river Mynach, in its confined courfe, meet- ing with obftruitions of mafly rock, and fragments of prodigious fize, rufhes through the chafm with irre- fiftible violence. This bridge is called in Welfh Pont-ar-Fynach^ or Mynach Bridge : it confifts of two arches, one thrown over the other. The foundation of the under one is of great antiquity, and vulgarly attributed to the inven- tion of the Devil : it is fuppofed to have been eredted as far back as the year 1087, ^" ^^^ '"^^S" ^^ Wil- liam DIRECTORY. 69 liam II., by the Monks of Strata Florida Abbey, the ruins of which are ftill vifible, about ten miles from hence. Gerald mentions his pafling over it, when he accompanied Baldwin, Archbifhop of Cambr?y, at the time of the crufades, in the year 1 188, and in the reign of Richard I. The original arch being fufpe<5led to be in a ruinous. condition, the prefent bridge was built over it, at the expence of the county, in the year 1753. The width of the chafm is eftimated at about thirty feet. Our Ciceroni firft condufled us to a fall on the river Rhyddol, unobferved in Walker's Defcrlption of theDe^ vil's Bridge^ and unnoticed by Warner. The chara^Sler of this fall is remarkably fingular : a huge fragment of rock, projedling over the river for a confiderable way, precipitates the water in a fmgular, and almoft inex- preffible direction ; the rocks are occafionally variegated by the dark foliage of underwood, and fometimes bar- ren, rugged, and impending. Defcription cannot fuggeft the full magnificence of the profpedl which fpread before us, on our arrival at the grand fall of the Mynach; for though it may paint the grandeur of the elegance of outline, yet it cannot equal the archetypes in nature, or draw the minute features, that reward the adual obferver, at every new choice of F 3 his 70 THE CAMBRIAN his pofition ; reviewing this thundering catara^l, in the leifure of recollecStion, thefe nervous lines of Thomfon feem to defcribe much of the fcene : . *' Smooth to the fhelving brink a copious flood ** Rolls fair and placid, where collefted all *' In one impetuous torrent, down the fteep *' It thundering (hoots, and fhakes the country roiind, ** At firft an azure Iheet, it rufhes broad ; *' Then whitening by degrees, as prone it falls, *' And from the loud-refounding rocks below <« Dalh'd in a cloud of foam, it fends aloft ** A hoary mifl, and forms a ceafelefs ihower, '* Nor can the tortured wave here find repofe : ** But raging ftill amid the Ihaggy rocks, «' Now flafties o'er the fcatter'd fragments, now «' Aflant the hollow channel rapid darts; " And falling faft from gradual flope to flope, ** With wild infrafted courfe, and leflenM roar, ** It gains a fafer bed, and Heals, at laft, *' Along the mazes of the quiet vale." The following Table, taken from Walker's Defcrip- ilon of the Devil's Bridge^ gives the exadl height from the top of the bridge, to the water underneath, and the different falls from thence, till the Mynach delivers it- felf into the Rhyddol below ; FALLS, DIRECTORY. yt FALLS, &c. Feet. From the bridge to the water - 114 Firftfall - - - . 18 Second ditto - - - 60 Third ditto - - - 20 Grand cataract - - no From the bridge to the Rhyddol - 322 The rocks on each fide of the fall rife perpendicu- larly to the height of eight hundred feet, and are finely clothed with the richeft vegetation, to the loftieft fummit. Near the bafon of the firft fall from the bridge we entered a dark cavern, formerly inhabited by a fet of robbers, two brothers and a fifter, called Plant Mat, or Plant Faty fignifying Matthew's children. Tradition reports, that they committed various depredations in the neighbourhood, ape! lived concealed in this ^^fpecus *« horrendum'' for many years, from the keen refearch of <' day's garifh eye." The entrance juft admits fuffi- cient light to make «' darknefs vifible." With regret we left this romantic fpot ; where, if retirement ever had <^ local habitation," this was her F 4 " place jrfi THB CAMBRIAN <« place of deareft refidence." " One excurfion" (fays Mr. Cumberland) <* to this place, will not fufficecom- *< mon obfervers ; nor indeed many, to the lovers of << the grand fports of nature." *' The Mynach'* (in another place he defcribes) " coming down from be- •« neath the DeviPs Bridge, has no equal for height or V beauty that I know of; for although a ftreamlet, to « the famous fall of Narni in Italy, yet it rivals it in «< height, and furpafles it in elegance, <« After pafling deep below the bridge, as through a «< narrow firth, with noifes loud and ruinous, into a *< confined chafm, the fleet waters pour headlong and " impetuous, and leaping from rock to rock, with fury, «< literally lafh the mountain's fides; fometimes almoft «< imbowered among deep groves, and flafhing, at laft, *« into a fan-like form, the fall rattling among the •« loofe ftones of the Devil's Hole — where to all ap- «« pearance, it fhoots into a gulf beneath, and filently " fleals away : for fo much is carried off in fpray, «< during the incefTant repercuflions it experiences, in «' this long tortuous fhoot, that in all probability, not ** half the water arrives at the bottom of its profound «' and fullen grave." Four miles from heijce, on the Llandiloe's road, is fituated HAVOD, DIRECTORY. 73 HAVOD, the celebrated feat of Mr. Johnes; The former part of the road is barren and uninterefting : but, on our firft entrance into the grounds, all our paft complaints were loft in expreflions of admiration. The manfion is a very elegant piece of architedure, built of Portland ftone, and the plan entirely novel, being a mixture of the Moorifh and Gothic, with turrets and painted win- dows. The whole of it indeed does great credit to the architect, Mr. Baldwyn of Bath. It is fituated near the banks of the river Yftwith, and beautifully envi- roned by lofty hills, clothed with oak. The interior of the houfe correfponds in elegance with the exterior. From the hall we were condudled through a fuite of elegant apartments, very judicioufly fitted up with paintings, ftatues, and antiques ; but the library more particularly engaged our notice, containing a choice and valuable collection of books : this octagonal room is built in the form of a dome, with a gallery round it, fupported by a colonade of variegated marble pillars, of the ancient Doric order, with a circular window at top, for the admiflion of light. We entered through a hand- fome door, inlaid with a large reflecting mirror ^ imme- diately oppofite is another door, of tranfparent plate- glafs, 74 THE CAMBRIAN glafs, leading to the confer vatory, three hundred feet in length, and containing a number of curious, and rare exotics, with a walk down the centre of the build- ing. In fine, the efFedl of the tout enfemhle can better be imagined than defcribed. Amongtt the other things worthy of admiration, a handfome ftatue, in the li- brary, of Thetis dipping Anchifes in the river Styx, more particularly detains attention. We next pa fled through the billiard-room, and were conducted to the top of the ftair-cafe, to admire two elegant paintings, the fubje forming an amphitheatre, — watered by the Alpine tor^ • Mr. Pennant in his Sr:o7vdoma, p. 397, publlflied in 1781, " men- ♦' tions, that there are brought annually to Salop feven hundred thoufand " yards of web j and to Welch Pool, annually, between (tvcn and eight *' hundred thoufand yards of flannel j but he does not ftate the particulars «* whence he reduces his general eftimate." I have quoted this paffage from Aikin's excellent chapter (vii.) on the }VcoUen Manufa&ure of North WakSf not having in my polTeflion Mr. P.'s SnowJtma, G 3 rent 86 THE CAMBRIAN rent of the Maw, — and richly clothed with wood. But neceffity has no law ; the beft inn was pre-occu» pied, and no comfortable accommodations could be found ; and, though drenched with rain, we were com- pelled to quicken our pace to the well-known bathing place of BARMOUTH. It is advifeable for all travellers, pedeftrians not excepted, to leave Dolgelly at high water, as without that, the fcenery lofes much of its beauty; if conve- nient, it is certainly preferable to hire a boat, at the Stoves ; the charge is three ihillings and fixpence -, by this you will fave a walk of eight miles, and both from your fituation, and from being more at your eafe, will better admit of your obferving the furrounding fcenery, with which you cannot fail to be highly gratified. This fhort excurfion of eight miles, is truly grand, awful, and fublime ; and though many parts of this ftriking valley are richly cultivated, yet, by the fide of the road, enormous mountains, formed into the moft ca- pricious fhapes, flioot into the clouds, fometimes pro- jeding fo far over the road, as feemingly defigning to impede our farther progrefs : the wide expanfe of the ocean, in front, with the arm of the fea running up the country DIRECTORY. 8j country in the centre of the valley ; in fine, the tout £nfemble chimed our higheft admiration. Barmouth though confidered as a bathing-place, is very inferior to Tenby, yet its fituation for grandeur of rocks, has been frequently compared, by many tourifts, to Gibraltar ; and by others, efteemed not unlike St. Kitts, in the Weft Indies, The vaft fand banks, formed by the tides immediately in front of the tovi^n, are the only barriers v^^hich proted it from the inundations of the fea. The fhore is extremely level, and affords, for many miles, excellent riding. In re- fpedt to the bathing, little can be faid to recommend it j the machines are not drawn into the water, and by this palpable inconvenience, you are under the dif- a^eeable neceffity of walking a confiderable way in, before the water is fufficiently deep for '« plunging << headlong in the briny flood." During our ftay here, two gentlemen perceiving that the water was very much alloyed by a frefh water ftream difembogueing itfelf into the fea, at Barmouth, perfuaded Mrs. lyewis, the obliging landlady of the Cors-y-gedol Arms, to re- move the machines farther from the tow^n ; and from them we were informed, that though the fait water was purer, yet they found it impoflible to draw them fufficiently deep for good bathing : the machines being llationary on the fands, the ladies likewife find it re- G 4 markably 88 THE CAMBRIAN markably inconvenient, being equally compelled to walk in. The folly of this method feems to be more ftriking, as the objection might be fo eafily obviated. The lower clafs here, as in many other parts of Wales, indifcriminately drefs and undrefs on the fands, and pay very little diftin^ion to their fex. The board and lodging is regulated on the fame ex- cellent plan here as at Tenby, with very little dif- ference in refpeP' 579*) This is, therefore, only to be confidtred as a repetition j with the addition of a biief extract from the two fubfequent letters, (September, 1799, p« 741, and November, p. 938,) given to the public by different hands, through the medium of the Gentleman s Magaxinet vifit DIRECTORY. T21 vifit the chapel, that we might be enabled, in future, to contradict this ridiculous report. At fix in the evening the congregation afiembled, and on our entrance into the chapel, we obferved on the north fide, from a fort of ftage or pulpit, erected on the occafion, a man, in appearance, a common day- labourer, holding forth to an ignorant and deluded multitude. Our entrance at firft, feemed to excite a general dilTatisfadion ; and our near neighbours, as if confcious of their eccentricities, muttered bitter complaints againft the admittance of ftrangers. The chapel, which was not divided into pews, and even delHtute of feats, contained near an hundred people; half way round was ere(5^ed a gallery. The preacher continued raving, and, indeed, foaming at the mouth, in a manner too fhocking to relate : — he allowed him- fclf no time to breathe, but feemingly intoxicated, uttered the moft difmal howls and groans imaginable, which were anfwered by the congregation, fo loud, as occafionally to drown even the voice of the preacher. At laft, being nearly cxhaufted by continual vocifera- tion, and fainting from exertion, he funk down in the pulpit : the meeting, however, did not difperfe : a pfalm was immediately fung by a man, who, we ima* gined officiated as clerk, accompanied by the whole congregation. The pfalm had not continued long, before 122 THE CAMBRIAN before we obferved part of the aflembly, to our great furprife, jumping in fmall parties of three, four, and fometimes five in a fet, lifting up their hands, beat- ing their breafts, and making the moft horrid gefti- culations. Each individual feparately jumped, regu- larly fucceeding one another, while the reft generally affifted the jumper by the help of their hands/ The women always appeared more vehement than^the men, and infinitely furpafTed them in numbers; feeming to endeavour to excel each other in jumping, fcream- ing, and howling. We obferved, indeed, that many of them loft their (hoes, hats, and bonnets, with the utmoft indifference, and never condefcended to fearch after them ; in this condition, it is not unufual to meet them jumping to their homes. Their meetings are twice a week, Wednefdays and Sundays. Having accidentally met with a gentleman, at the hotel, a native of Siberia, we invited him to our party, and, induced by curiofity, he readily accompanied us to the chapel. On the commencement of the jumping^ he in- treated us to quit the congregation, exclaiming, <^ Good " God ! 1 for a moment forgot I was in a Chriftian «< country ; the dance of the Siberians, in the worfhip «' of the Lama, with their fhouts and gefticulations, is <« not more horrid !" This obfervation fo forcibly ftruck me, that 1 could not avoid inferting it in my note-book. With DIRECTORY. I23 With difguft we left the chapel, and were given to underftand, by our landlord, they celebrate a particular day every year, when inftances have been known of women dying by too great an exertion ; and fainting is frequently the confequence of their exceffive jumping. This fe6l is by no means confined to the town of Caernarvon, but in many villages, and in feveral mar- ket towns, both in North and South Wales,* they have eftablifhed regular chapels. <' They have" (fays a correfpondent to the Gerdleman^s Maga%me^\) ^< periodical meetings in many of the larger towns, to ** which they come from thirty to forty miles round. *' At one, held in Denbigh, about laft April, there *« were, I believe, upwards of four thoufand people, «« from different parts. At another, held in Bala, *' foon afterwards, nearly double that number were <« fuppofed to be prefent." The lafl number appears rather to be exaggerated, though the letter, being dated from Denbigh, ihould be confidered as authoritative.. Another correfpondent to the Gentleman's Maga- zine, gives the following information refpe£ling the fed: « That they are not a diftindt fedt, hut MethodiJIsy • I have fince underftood, that they have a chapel at Caermarthen. f September, 1799, P* 741. «of 1^4 T^E CAMBRIAN **• of the fame perfuafion as the late Mr. Whitfield ; «< for though there are feveral congregations of IP^ef-^ «« hyan Methodlftsy in this country, there is no fuch <* cuftom amongft them. But jumping during reli- « gious worfhip is no new thing amongft the other <« party, haviqg (by what I can learn) been pradlifed « by them for many years paft. 1 have feen fom'e of *' their pamphlets, in the Welch language, in which « this cuftom is juftified by the example of David, «' who danced before the ark ; and of the lame man, <« reftored by our blefled Saviour, at the gate of the <« Temple, who leaped for jpy." How far this gentle- man's account may be accurate, I leave for others to decide; it is certainly to be lamented, in a country where the Chriftian Religion is preached in a ftile of the greateft purity and fimplicity, that thofe poor igno- rant deluded wretches fhould be led to a form of wor- ihip fo diflbnant to the Eftablifhed Church of England, and, indeed, by a poor ignorant fellow, devoid of edu^ cation, and devoid of common fenfe. The fame road we had fo much admired the pre* ceding Saturday, foon brought us to BANGOR, the fuppofed fcite of the Bovium, or Bonium, a Roman ilatioHj DIRECTORY. I25 ftation, and celebrated for the moft ancient Britifh monaftery, which contained two thoufand four hundred Monks : it has long retained its Britifh name, Bafigor^ or Banchor, fignifying <' a beautiful quire ;" an appel- lation it juftly merits. The fituation is deeply fe- eluded, «' far from the buftle of a jarring world,*' and muft have accorded well with monaftic melancholy; for the Monks, emerging from their retired cells, might here indulge in that luxurious melancholy, which the profpedl infpires, and which would footh the afperities which the fevere difcipline of fuperftition inflicted on them. The fituation of Banchor appears more like a fcene of airy enchantment, than reality, and the refidences of the canons are endeared to the votaries of landfcape by the profpedl they command. On the oppofite fhore, the town of Beaumaris is {qqxi ftraggling up the fteep declivity, with its quay crowded with veflels, and all appeared buftle and confufion ; the contraft which the nearer profpecl infpired, was too evident to efcape our notice, where the " Oak, whofe boughs were mofs'd with age, " And high top bald with dry antiquity," afForded a feat for the contemplation of the wide ex- panfe of the ocean, which is feen beyond the little ifland of Puffin, or Prieftholmj fo called, from the quantity 1^6 THE CAMBRIAN quantity of birds of that fpecles, which refort here in the fummer months. The cathedral has been built at different times, but no part very ancient ; it was made an epifcopal fee, about the time of the conqueft : the church was burnt down by Owen Glertdwr, in the reign of Henfy IV.; the choir was afterwards built by Bifliop Henry Dene,* between 1496 and 1500; the tower and nave by Bilhop Skevington, 1532. The whole is Gothic architecture, with no other particular ornament to dif- tinguifh it f;om a common Englifh parifh churcht There are, however, feveral bifhopsf buried in the choir. I could dwell with pleafure on the pidurefque beauties of this little epifcopal fee; but a repetition of the fame epithets grandy beautiful^ fublime^ fine ^ with a long catalogue, which muft necefTarily occur, would appear tautologous on paper, though their archetypes * Or Deane. f As from negleft we did not tranfcrlbe the names of the bifhops, It may not be deemed improper to iiifert the following pafTage from a well- known Author: "Here are monuments for Bifhops Glynn, 15505 " Robinfon, 1584; Vaughan, 1597; Rowlands, 1616: Morgan, 1673 j " and one with a crofs fleuii in the fouth tranfept, afcribed to Owen ** Glendwr j but as he was buried at Monington, in Kerefordfliire, where ** he died, I ftiould rather afcribe it to fome of the earlier bifhops j Mr, <* Pennant gives it to Owen Gwynned." in DIRECTORY, 127 in nature would afTume new colours at every change of pofition of the beholder. From this retirement, a ferry-boat foon conveyed us to BEAUMARIS, the largeft and beft built town in Anglefey, where the fame bufy fcene occurred. Having taken a fhort furvey of Baron Hill, the feat of Lord Bulkley, com- manding a fine profpedl of the ocean, with the huge promontory of Pen-mawn-maur, we were foon con- vinced, that there was nothing to require a longer ftay 5 and returning to Bangor, we purfued the road to Con- way. About two miles on our left, we palTed the park and caftle of Penrhyn, the feat of Lord Penrhyn : this has lately been confiderably enlarged and repaired, un- der the judicious diredlion of Mr. Wyat. The en- trance is remarkably elegant, refembling a triumphal arch. This manfion enjoys a boundlefs profpedl of the ocean on one fide, appearing but feebly reftrained by a long tradt of fcarcely vifible coaft on the other; in front, the flat ifland of Anglefey, the lofty Pen- mawn-mawr, and the prominent point of Caernarvbn- Ihire : whilft the neat church of Landegai forms a nearer objefl of admiration. We foon reached the dark lowering promontory of Pen-mawn-mawr, about eight 128 THE CAMBRIAN eight miles from Bangor, rifing perpendicularly, in a mafTy wall, to the height of one thoufand four hundred feet : huge fragments of (battered rock are fcattered by the fide of the road, and a wall, fcarcely five feet high, alone protects a carriage from the fteep precipice ; which, from the flightnefs of the foundation, has even fallen down in many parts. In this awfully fublime fituation we remained for fome time, aftonifhed at the bold protuberance of the rocks, which feemed to project their dark fides, to augment the idle roar of the waves, Purfuing a good turnpike-road, we foon came in fight of the hoary towers of CONWAY CASTLE. An air of proud fublimity, united with fingular wild- nefs, characSterizes the place. The evening was far ad- vanced ^ and part of its ruins were (hining with the purple glow of the fetting fun, whofe remaining fea- tures ftood in darkened majefty, when we entered this monument of defolation. Faffing over a plank, origi- nally the fcite of the draw-bridge, we came into the outward court, ftrongly defended with battlements ; from thence we examined the grand entrance of the caftle, with feveral abutments projedling forward, fimi- lar DIRECTORY. I29 lar in ftile to Caernarvon. On the fouth fide of the court is the grand hall, meafuring an hundred and thirty feet by thirty-two, with eight light Gothic arches, five of which are ftill in good condition.- On one end is the chapel with a large window, a beautiful fpecimen of Gothic archite£lure. It is founded on the folid rock, by Edward I. in the year 1284: the walls are from eleven to fifteen feet thick : all the towers are defended by fmaller round ones, projecting two or three feet over, with a regular communication round the whole caftle by galleries, on the fame plan as at Caernarvon. The fteps are decayed and broken, and the loofenefs of the ftones rendered a footing very in- fecure; but, impelled by an irrefiftible curiofity, we afcended the mott perfect tower, and an extenfive prof- pe6l prefented itfelftoour view. The foundation of one of the principal towers, looking towards a fmall river, which here joins the Conway, has lately given way, and torn down with it part of the building ; the remainder now hangs in an extraordinary manner. The whole town is inclofed within ftrong walls, and defended by a number of towers, which communicate with the caftle by a gallery i there are likewife feveral gate-ways, at certain diftances. The ancient church next attracted our attention; but did not detain us long, as the monuments for K the J30 THE CAMBRIA!^ ;■ . •' "" ' ' ff the Wynnes are the only things vs^orthy of infpedlion. From thence we furveyed the remains of the college, which in the reign of Edward I. was intended for the inftru6lion of youth : it is now in complete ruins : the workmanfhip curious, with feveral fculptured arms. In this town is an ancient houfe, built in the foriii of a quadrangle, by the Wynnes, in the time of Elizabeth, now inhabited by poor families. This houfe is adorned, after the fantaftical fafhion of the times, in which it was erected 5 the roof is fingularly carved, and the front decorated with the arms of England, with feveral curious crefts, birds, and beafts ; it bears the date of 1585. The arms of Elizabeth are carved over the door, fronting the ftreet. The trade of Conway confifts in the exportation of flate, and copper from the Llandidno mines, from whence the fineft fpecimens of Malachite copper is brought. The town and caftle of Conway arc ken to great advantage in croffing the river, which is here nearly a mile over, and at high water wafhes the walls of that maffy ruin : in the middle of the channel is a fmall rocky ifland. We obferved, from this fituation, the two caftles, called Bodfcallan and Dyganwy 5 the fmall remains of the latter ftand on a high ^ock above the river ^ the former is a beautiful feat of the Mof- tyns. We DIRECTORY. 131 We were foon tranfported into Denbighfliire; an extenfive profpe^l of the ocean prefented itfelf before us, and we difcovered the mountains of the Ifle of Man, which could fcarcely be diftinguiftied from the clouds of Heaven, and the waves of the fea. In defcending a hill, about two miles from the neat bathing-town of ABERGELE, we obferved, on our right, two immenfe caverns, about half way up the mountain j they are called Cavern-ar- ogo, and run four or five hundred yards into the ground; but their real extent has never yet been afcertained with accuracy. From thefe mountains, vaft quantities of lime are fhipped for Liverpool, and many parts of England j they are faid to be inexhauftible. Abergele, fituated on the edge of Rhuddlan Marfli, is a fmall neat town, of one ftreet, reforted to in the fummer-feafon for bathing. The fands afford ex- cellent walking ; in the evening we lingered on the beach for a confiderable time, enjoying the calm, but cheerful beauty of Nature, and inhaling the pure fea- breeze — for K 2 " The 132 THE CAMBRIAN I ** The wind was hulh'd, " And to the beach each flowly-lifted wave, '* Creeping with filver curl, joft kifl the Ihore, " And flept in filence.". Majoni Garden, With pleafure, mixed with reverential awe, we^trod Rhuddlan Marfh, fo celebrated in the annals of hiftory. Here the ill-fated Richard the Second was betrayed into the hands of Bolinbroke, and taken prifoner to Flint : here the famous King* of Mercia met his un- timely death : here the Welfh, under the command of Caradoc, in the year 795, were defeated in a conflict with the Saxons, and their leader flain in the adtion. This memorable and tragical event is handed down to pofterity, by an ancient celebrated Ballad, called Morva Rhuddlan, or the Marfti of Rhuddlan, compofed by the bards on the death of Prince Caradoc, The ground we trod, conne<51ed with fo many events, revived in our minds, the memory of paft ages, a feries of hiftorical events came to our recolledlion ; events, that are now fo diftant, as almoft to be obliterated from the page of hiftory. Faffing over a bridge of two arches, thrown over the river Clwyd, we entered * OfFa. RHUD- DIRECTORY. 133 RHUDDLAN, once the krgefl and moft refpedable town in North- Wales. Walking over the ruins of the caftle, I recurred, by a natural afTociation of ideas, to the times, when the parliament-houfe, the halls, and courts echoed with the voices of thofe, who have long fince been fwept from the earth, by the unerring hand of death. One folitary Gothic window is now only re- maining, to diftinguifh the old parliament-houfe, where Edward the Firft inftituted that famous code of laws, under the title of the Statute of Rhuddlan^ from a neigh- bouring barn : and, what once contained the parlia- ment of England, now contains nothing but bark for the fupply of a tan-yard. The old caflle is built of red ftone \ it confifts of a fquare area, ftrongly fortified with a wall : this court we entered through the grand gate-way, between two round towers : the oppofite fide correfponds. The whole is encircled by a deep entrenchment, faced with ftone on the river fide, with two fquare towers, one of which ftill remains. The road from hence to K3 ST. 134 THE CAMBRIAN ST. ASAPH, affords a moft rich and beautiful walk, extending along the celebrated vale of Clwyd. This rich traIRECTORY. 171 was difTolved by act of parliament, " being a great ** grievance to the fubje£l, and a means to introduce " an arbitrary power, efpecially in the late reign, when ** a new convert family were at the head of it." The church next demanded our attention, the only one belonging to this town. The time of the founda- tion of this ancient and elegant ftrudure cannot now beftri6lly afcertained : it is fituated on an eminence, in the centre of the town. The fquare tower is lofty, and of very light architedure, but the upper part fufFered much, from the all-deftroying hand of Oliver Cromwell. The highly-finiihed ftatues round the battlements, are much mutilated, and many entirely deftroyed. On entering the church, fix light Gothic fluted arches on each fide, with four fimilar^ones of larger dimenfions, fupporting the tower, are ftrilcingly grand. Under the organ-loft, we pafled into the chancel, now only made ufe of for the adminiftration of the Sacrament. This is a moft elegant building, with thirteen flails on each fide, fimilar, in ftile, to the generality of cathe- drals ; the feats of the ftalls, all of which turn back, ex- hibit fpecimens of curious workmanfhip, with ftrange devices, and ridiculous conceits. Some of the glafs painted windows are ftill in good prefervation ; the large one, over the altar-piece, reprefents the Hifloryof St. Lawrence, to whom this church is dedicated, in fifty- 172 THE CAMBRIAN fifty-four compartments. The other windows of the chancel are much mutilated, collected from different paits of the church, and feveral panes broken, by the unmeaning idlenefs of boys; — regardlefs of thefe valu- able relicks of antiquity. — In the fide of the wall, near the altar, are two ftone Halls, with a pifcina oppofite. In this chancel is a handfome n^onument, erecSled to the memory of Robert Town fend, and his wife, with feveral figures of their fons and daughters carved round the bottom : over them are the arms of their family and connexions : it bears the date of 1581. A modern monument to Theophilus Sol way, Efq. An ancient one to Ambrofia Sydney, who died at Ludlow Caftle. This lady was daughter to Sir Henry Sidney, who attained the important fituation of the prefidency of Wales, in the year 1564. He died at Bewdley, in 1584, and left this fingular injunction to his executors : '< that his heart fhould be buried at *' Shrewfbury, his bowels at Bewdley, and his body at *' Ludlow, in the tomb of his favourite daughter Am- *< brofia ;" this order was punctually executed 5 and the leaden urn, containing his heart, was fix inches deep, and five inches in diameter at the top, with this infcrip- tion carved three times round it ; Her DIRECTORY. I73 ~ Her lith the Harte of Syr Henrye Sydney L. p. Anno Domini^ 1586. For an engraving of this urn, taken fropi a drawing of iVIr. S. Nicholas, fee the Gentleman* s Magazine for September, 1794. Another monument* to Edward Wetfon, and his wife, kneeling oppofite to each other. In a fmall chapel, to the left of the chancel, are three very handfome painted glafs-windows, containing the Hiftory of the Apoftles, in eighteen compartments ; there is aUb a rofary. In this chapel is an elegant marble tomb, to Sir Thomas Bridgeman, ferjeant at law. In this church is likewife buried Sir John Bridgeman, the laft prefident but one of Ludlow Caftle. He was extremely rigid in his office: and one Ralph Gittins, who had pro- bably experienced his feverity, compofed the following Epitaph on him: " Here lies Sir John Bridgeman, clad in his clay : «' God faid to the Devil, firrah, take him away."f • No account of the infide of the church is given in the LuJhio f Pbill'ipi's Hi/lory of Sbrnvjbury, A chapel 174 THE CAMBRIAN A chapel correfponding on the oppofite fide, contains the royal arms of Charles, and fome old iron armour. Should tlje Tourift find time to make any ftay at Ludlow, feveral excurfions in the neighbourhood, will prove highly gratifying. Oakley Park, the elegant feat of the Dowager Lady Clive, claims the greateft attention ; it is fituated about two miles from Ludlow, on the banks of the Teme river; juft beyond this, is a feat of Walpole, Efq. About five miles diftant is Downton Caftle, the noble manfion, and fine walks of Richard Payne Knight, Efq. one of the repre- fentatives in parliament for the borough of Ludlow. Being necellitated to leave this charming country by a particular day, we had no opportunity of vifiting thefe celebrated and much admired feats. With regret we left the delightful fituation of Ludlow, and crolling Lawford's Bridge, we afcended an eminence, along a beautiful terrace, commanding a moft charming and pleafant country to our left, with the fertile county of Hereford, abounding with orchards, which were all bending with the produce of the year. About two miles from Ludlow on the right, we paufed to admire the delightful feat of Theophilus Richard Solway, Efq. fituated on an emi- nence, and jfkirted by a rich plantation of wood towards DIRECTORY, ^75 towards the weft : it is called the Lodge. Defcend- ing into a bottom, a rich country, ftudded with farm- houfes, foon brought us to the town of LEOMINSTER; or Lemifter, confifting of one long ftreet j the Market- place in the centre, bea^ring a very old date, and like- wife the church, are both deferving of the traveller's notice. It is fituated in a flat, and the country round it is not particularly interefting. From hence a turnpike-road, fhewing to advantage, the rich culture of the country, foon brought us within fight of the venerable cathedral of HEREFORD, backed by a Hoping eminence juft rifing behind, and beautifully clothed with wood. Being under a par- ticular engagement to meet a party at Rofs, to accom- pany us down the Wye the following day, time would not allow us to inveftigate this refpe<3:able city, fo mi- nutely as it deferves. Our obfervations, therefore, were fo curfory, that the Hereford Guide muft fupply the fjS THE CAMBRIA^f the deficiencies in this part of our Journal ; this neg- lc(St, the Tourift muft attribute to our delay at the en- gaging town of Ludlow. At Hereford, we for fome time hefitated refpCiSling the hire of a boat to convey us to Rofs ; but the exor- bitant demand of the boatmen foon determined us to purfue the turnpike-road, and follow, as near as pof- fible, the courfe of the Wye. The orchards were overcharged with " bending fruit," and feemed to prog- nofticate a more favourable order feafon, than has of late been experienced. The retrofpeft of the city, with its ancient cathedral, formed a moft attrading view; and about three miles, a moft lovely vale, bounded by the hills of South Wales, arretted our at- tention. A continuation of the fame fcenery of or- chards, in which Herefordfhire fo peculiarly abounds, wrth the road continually dipping into fhallow vallies, attended us within five miles of Rofs, when, afcending a fteep hill, a view of that town, or, rather, of its far confpicuous/pire, broke in upon the repofing charac- ter of the fcene. This prefently conduced us to Wil- ton Bridge, thrown over the Wye, about half a mile from the town; and, leaving the caftle of Wilton to the left, we afcended the town of ROSS, DIRECTORY. 177 ROSS, to the inn, fo celebrated as the original habitation of Mr. Kyrle; more generally known by the name of " The Man of Rofs." The landlord feem:-; rather to depend upon the cultom of ftrangers, from this cir- cumftance, than the accommodations the inn offers. On the bridge we paufcd a fhort time, to take a view of the meandering Vaga, which here confiderably widens; feveral pleafure-boats, of various conftruc- tion, were riding at anchor, and united to enliven the watry fcene, whilfl its fmooth tranquil furface, refle(Sted and reverted every obje6l fituated on the banks. The life and character of Mr. Kyrle has too often been infilled on, and too frequently celebrated in verfe, to be again repeated, unlefs to " point its moral to the «« heart i" teaching us, that felf-approbation can con- fer an inward happinefs, fuperior to all wordly ap- plaufe; for, «' What nothing earthly gives, or can deftroy ; '* The fours calm funfliine, aud the heart-felt joy, *' Is virtue's prize." ■ Such a buftle pervaded the whole town, of parties aflembling here for an equatic expedition to Mon- N mouth. 178 THE CA^BRIAK mouth, the following day, that with difficulty we ob- tained a fmall room. From this circumftance, it would be advifable for parties to fecure themfelves accommo- dations during the fummer months, a confiderable time before hand 3 fuch is the continued aflemblage of parties forming for the Wye ; a boat likewife fliould be hired, and by mentioning the number of your party, the land- lord will be a proper judge, refpedting the fize. Stran- gers may pafs, with pleafure, the greateft part of a day, in furveying the views in the vicinity of Rofs ; views, which muft gratify the moft fuperficial obferver; but more particularly from the church-yard. A walk may be preferred through the latter place to " The <« Profpevrt," fo called from the profufe variety of ob- jects, in the beautiful, and the fublime, which are pre- fented from this fpot. The fudden burft of fuch a colle£lion of beauties, the eye, indeed, cannot contain without gratification. The river below bends itfelf in the whimfical and fantaftical ihape of a horfe-fhoe : this fingular wind of the river— the ruins of Wilton Caftle — the luxuriant counties of Hereford and Mon- mouth, and the beautiful Chafe Woods, all combine to promote one peculiarly grand and beautiful efFedl. To enter into a minute defcription of objects, fo va- rious and extenfive, is impolTible : in fine, to delineate the beauties ofthe Vaga, v^^ith all its accompaniments, would be enumerating every objedl that is interefting in DIRECTORY. fjg in Nature. Having fufficiently contemplated the view from the Profpe^V, a ramble through the meadows will next prove highly pleafmg. The fituation of Rofs, though exceedingly beauti- ful, has nothing in itfelf to detain attention : the ftreets are narrow, dirty, and inconvenient. The caftle of Wilton, fituated on the banks of the Wye, was founded in the reign of King Henry I. ; it was for- merly a nunnery, from whence the Greys de Wilton derive their title. Early in the morning, we congratulated each other on the favourablenefs of the weather, and with good fpirits provided all the necefTaries requifite for our water expedition ; the enjoyment of which depends much on the feafon. The hire of the boat to Mon- mouth, by water, is one pound eleven {hillings and fixpence, not including ten fhillings for provifions for the men, who likewife expe6l an additional fmall fum, after the fatigues of the day. The boat, navigated by three men, will contain ten or twelve people, without any inconvenience, and is properly protected by an awning, from the heat of the fun. The diftance from Rofs to Chepftow, by water, is more than forty miles, which ftrangers occafionally accomplifh in one day; but this hurrying method will not allow them an op- N 2 portunity l8o THE CAMBRIAl^ ■— ^Mi— M^— ^— — i—— ^— — l^— — 1— — 11 I ■ tf portunity of infpefting, with proper attention, the va- rious objects which deferve to be noticed ; and they cannot poflibly find time to leave their boat, and climb the rugged fteep banks of the Wye, in fearch of views, which, though vifited by the difcerning few, yet merit the regard of every amateur of Nature's landfcapes : and here it may not be improper to mention, that the boat-men too frequently fufFer thefe moft interefting fpots to be pafTed unnoticed by ftrangers, merely from lazinefs, or to avoid the delay of a few minutes. Gilpin, in his excellent treatife, Obfervations on the River Wye^ thus analyzes, in the fecond fedion, the beauties of the " echoing Vaga," and divides its con- ftituent parts into — thojieepnefs of its banks — its mazy courfe — the ground, woodsy and rocks, which are its native ornaments— and, laftly, the buildings. To this he might with propriety have added, its echoes — the variety of views from its banks— the fifhing coracles^ which are continually on the river j for all thefe con- tribute to form one pleafmg and interefting efFedl. We embarked on board our boat, a little below the town; and the firft obje6l which drew our attention, was the ivy-mantled walls of Wilton Caftle: the annual growth of the few trees which encircle it, will, in time, render it a more pidlurefque object ; it is at prefent fo fufEciently ken from the water, as not to require the ftranger DIRECTORY. l8i ftranger to difembark for farther infpedion. A few yards below, we pafTed under Wilton Bridge ; an elegant ftrucflure, of feveral arches. From hence, for four or five miles, the banks are tame and unintereft^ ing, and fo high above the river, as to prevent a prof- pe£t of the adjacent country ; but a groupe of cattle, fome ruminating on the brink, fomebrowzing on the afhhngs, which overhung the ftream, and others ►'* from their fides. " The troublous infers lafhing with their tails, ♦' Returning ftiU,"^— —^ formed a « rural confufion." The velocity of the ftream fhortly brought us to that noble fcenery, about four miles from Rofs, which fo eminently diftinguiflies and conftitutes the beauty of the Wye ; before us, the noble remains of Goodrich Caftle, crefting a fleep emi- nence, enveloped with trees, prefentcd themfelves ; be- hind, the thick foliage of Chafe Woods clofed the pic- ture. The happieft gradation of tints, and the livelieft blending of colours, were here confpicuous. On the right hand we landed on the fhore, in order to make a minute invettigation of the caltle : it is certainly a grand ruin, and ftands on an eminence, naturally fo fteep, as to render it, in former times, capable of fome refiftance againft a formidable enemy. On our firft en. N 3 trance 182 THE CAMBRIAN trance into the ruin, we naturally indulged reflections on paft fcenes, contemplated the traces of ancient fplendor ; and, connecting what remains, with what is deftroyed j we pondered on the vanity of human art, and the ravages of time, which exhibit, in this ruin, their completeft triumph. The warrior, who ftrove to preferve its original grandeur againft the attaclcs of Cromwell, is buried in Walford Church, fituated on the oppofite fide of the river, and feen from the caftle. The different parts of the building bear evident marks of its having been erected at various times; from a feat in the caftle-yard is the moffc advantageous fpot for furveying, in one view, the whole of this ruin : an o6lagon pillar, of light and elegant workmanfhip, is feen to great advantage through the gate-way, and adds confiderably to the magnificence of this ancient pile : it now belongs to Dr. GrifSn, of Hadnock, the lord of the manor. To return to our boat : we took a dif- ferent and more circuitous route, for the purpofe of infpecling the remains of Goodrich Priory, now con- verted into a farm. The chapel has experienced the fame viLiiiitude 3 and thofe v. ulis, which A^rmerly re- echoed with the chaunting of voices, and the folemn peal, now repeat the continued ftroices of the flail 5 in many parts of the walls, me initials of names of per- fons, who have long lince paid the debt of nature, and left behind no other memorial, are carved with charac- tcriftic DIRECTORY. 183 teriftic rudenefs, (hewing, to every palling ftranger, the prevalency of that univerfal paflion — the love or tame. The Gothic windows, and the crofs, erefied on each end of the building, (hew evident marks of it<^ former purpofe. The boat ufually meets the pailengers at another reach of the river j but it is a plan by no means to be recommended j fmce, by miffing a circuit round the caftle, its different tints, and vaiiety of attitudes, occafioned by one of the boideft fweeps of the Wye, are entirely lo(t. A fnorc time after we had taken our laft retrofpedl of Goodrich (Jaflie, the fpire of Rure- dean Church appeared in front, juft peeping from' among the woody fkirts oi the Fordl of Dean : a little below, Cnuitfield Houfe, belonging to Mr. ' Vaughan, was feen, in a very pi6turefque point of view, with the ruins of tne chapel, forming the back ground. In Courtfield Houfe, tradition reports, the warlike Henry V. was nurfed ; and in the church of Welch Bicknor, fituated to the right, in a noble am^* phitheatre, enclofed with rocks, firft embraced the Chriftian religion. A bufy fcene of craft loading and unloading, and coals fhipping for various parts from the quay at Lidbrook, prefents a picture of cheerful activity, and forms a pleafing contrafi: to the quiet, rich, and retired fpots, we had left behind us; fuch fpots, as were well adapted to form the mind of Bri- tain's glory— the virtuous Henry. The banks nov7 ^ N 4 became 1^4 '^^^ CAMBRIAN became richly clothed with wood, from the fummits of the higheft rocks to the water's edge ; and a hill in front, called Rofemary Topping, from the mellow luxuriance of its fides, clofed the profped. Almoft every fweep prefentb a new objedl to ftrike the admira- tion of the fpedtator : the tranfitions are fudden, but never fo harfli as to difguft ; even the contraft between the embellifhments o^ art we had juft left, and the v/ild rocks, which here exhibit Nature in her moft ftrSking attitudes, give an additional impreiTioa to each other. We :^ow reached the fine mafs of rocks, called Coldweli, one of which, Symond's Yatch, to the left, it is cuftomary for company to afcend, in order to view the mazy and circuitous courfe of the river, and the extenfive profpe£l around. The Foreft of Dean, the counties of Monmouth, Hereford, and Gloucefter, were extended before us, ftudded with villages, diver- fified with clutters of half-viftble farm hou%j with inany a grey Iheple, " embofomed high in tufted " trees." In paint ng the feveral views from this fummit, the happieft defcription would fail ; the im- preflion can only be conveyed by the eye. The river here niakes a moft extraordinary winding round the promt, -tory, ai.d having completed a circuit of more than five mile?, flows a fecond time immediately under Symond^s Yatch, The whole of this mazy courfe may be DIRECTORY. l8^ be traced from this eminence. From hence we difco- vereJ a very remarkable polylyllabical articulace echo, and we reckoned twelve diftmdt reverberations from the explofion of a gun, fired on this fpot. It is here again cuftomary for the boatmen to impofe on ftrangers, and if they can prevail on them, during their walk to Symond's Yatch, will take the boat round the circuit of five miles, and meet them at New Wier, in order that no time (hould be loftj but this lazinefs we by no means encouraged, and the whole courfe of this ex- traordinary and romantic fweep proved highly grati- fying. Goodrich Spire, which we again wound round, prefentsd itfelf : huge fragments of mafly rocks which have rolled down from the precipices, oppofite Manuck Farm, here almoft choaked up the courfe of the ftream. The changing attitudes and various hues of Symond's Yatch, lifting its almoft fpiral head high above the other rocks, as we receded and drew near it, fupplied a com- bination of tints furprifingly gay and beautiful ; and having accomplilhed a fweep of five miles, we reached, within a quarter of a mile, the fpot where we begari our afcent to this fteep eminence. The view of New Weir, next unfolded itfelf ^ but a difagreeable fcene here generally occurs, and inter- rupts the pleafure of contemplation : a large afTem- l>lage of beggars, men, women, and children, on the banks, l86 THE CAMBRIAN banks, bare-footed, and fcarcely a rag to cover them, followed our boat, imploring charity; and feveral almoft throwing themfelves into the water, to catch your money, which, every now and then, the big- ger feize from the lefs. This idle crew fubfift on the trifles they obtain from ftrangers ; and as beggary is their profeffed trade, if their wants are not fatisried, they generally add infolence, with an oath, to their demands. But 1 have omitted to mention, that before we reached the New Weir, the fpire of Haunton on Wye, crefting a hill at the extremity of a long reach, and a fantaftic barren rock, jutting out from the green foli^ age which encircles it, prefenting itfelf bold and con- fpicuous, formed prominent and interefting features in the landfcape : this is called «« Bearcroft," receiving its appellation from the very refpe£table and learned coun- fellor of that name. Several rocks indeed, particu- larly in this part of the river, are named by the Council, who have long made it a pradice of exploring the rich and bold fcenery of the Wye, on their affize circuit. Gilpin, confidering New Weir as the fecond grand fcene on the Wye, thus defcribes it: " The *< river is wider than ufual in this part, and takes a *' fweep round a towering promontory of rock, which <« forms the fide fcreen on the left, and is the grand <« feature DIRECTORY. 187 ffc;.*« feature of the view. On the right fide of the *« river, the bank forms a woody amphitheatre, foUow- *' ing the courfe of the ftieum round the promontory : «« its lower fkirts are adorned with a hamlet, in the <= midft of which, volumes of thick fmoke, thrown up *' at intervals, from an iixjn forge, as its fires receive " frefh fuel, add double grandeur to the fcene. But " what peculiarly marks this view, is a circumftance " on the water : the whole river, at this place, makes <' a precipitate fall ; of no great height, indeed, but <« enough to merit the name of a cafcade, though to " the eye, above the ftream, it is an obje£l of no con- " fequence. In all the fcenes we had yet pafTed, the << water moving with a flow and folemn pace, the «« objedls around kept time, as it were, with it; and « every fteep, and every rock, which hung over the «' river, was folemn, tranquil, and majeftic. But << here, the violence of the ftream, and the roaring of «' the waters, impreiTed a new chara6ler on the fcene : u all was agitation and uproar 3 and every fteep, and <« every rock, flared with wildnefs and terror." The accuracy and elegance of this defcription, drawn by fo mafterly a pen, I hope will amply compenfate for the length of this quotation. The extenfive iron-works, mentioned in this paflage, belong to Mr. Partridge. Below the New Weir, a continuation of the fame rich fcenery ftill arretted our attention, and rocks and wood feemed l88 THE CAMBRIAN feemed to contend, which fliould be moft confpicuous; till the winding of the river, round Doward's Rock, on which was formerly a Roman ilation, brought us under the houfe of Mr. Hatley, which commands a view of the river as far as Monmouth, v/hen it is terminated by the to.wn, and bridge of fix arches. As we drew near MONMOUTH, the houfe of Dr. GriiEn, fituated on an eminence, and a banqueting room, ere A thoufand arts^ a thoufand winning ways Are SONNETS. 203 Are thine, to fraooth the rugged brow of care. And mitigate misfortune's keeneft hour: Yes, A , partner of my Cambrian Tour, Friend of my heart, how gladly do I (hare Thy confidence ; whatever my part may be Hereafter on this fhifting flage of life. This bufy theatre of jarring ftrife. May health and happinefs attend both thee And thine ! — on ONE, thy Heav'nly Guardian truft. Nor doubt protedion — all HIS ways are juft. SON- fli04 SONNETS. SONNET IL The Contraji of Tefterday, and To-day ; fuppofed 'to be written on the Summit ^/'Snowdon. H. .OW gay was yefterday! — no llorm was heard To mutter round thy fteep ! yon fun arofe With golden fplendor, and in Hill repofe Nature majeftic thro' her works appear'd. To-day, how chang'd ! — loud howls the hollow blall ! The thin mifts undulate ! thy tow'ring height Is veil'd in tempeft, and eternallilght ! So 'tis with man ! contrafting profpeds paft With dreams of future happinefs— to day In gallant trim his little bark may glide. On the fmooth current of the tranquil tide : To-morrow comes ! — the gathering florms difplay A fad viciffitude — the whirlwind's fweep, Grafps at his prey, and whelms it in the deep. SON- SONNETS. 205 SOxNNET III. On leaving Wales. HV burlls the tear, as Cambria, now I leave Thy wild variety of dale and hill. Where fancy, fond intruder, lingers ftill ? Why do thefe parting fighs my bofom heave ? 'Tis, that alas ! I ne'er may view again Thofe haunts, thofe folitary fcenes I love ; But thro' this vale of tears forfaken rove. And tafte the fad viciffitude of pain : 'Tis, that 1 fadly breathe a warm adieu. To long-loll fcenes of mutual amity ; 'Tis, that I turn, my abfent friend, to thee, *« Think on pall pleafures, and folicit new I" For thee my fervent pray'rs to Heav'n afcend. And may we meet again as friend to friend* SON- 206 SONNETS. SONNET IV. to the Weljh Itarp. jLrfOV*D inflrument ! again repeat thofe founds, Thofe plaintive airs, that thro* my fenfes fteal. With melancholy fweet. Their pow'r I feel Soothing my fadnefs, healing forrow's wounds. Gently thou luU'ft my fufFerings to repofcj Inclin*ft my heart to ev*ry virtuous deed* Removing from my mind each darkening fhade That clouds my days, increafing all my woes. Now fwelling with the breeze, along thy vales. Romantic Cambria ! the ftrain I hear. Then dying fo ft away, comes o'er my ear In whifpers foft, dill wafted by thy gales ! Lov*d inflrument I again repeat thofe founds. Soothing my fadnefs, healing forrow*s wounds,. SON' SONNETS, acjy SONNET V. Suppojcd to he written by Moon-light, on the Sea- Jliore, at Tenbigh. LOVE to mark the filver-curling fpray, Juft kifs the pebbled fhore; the zephyr blows, And ocean flumbers in ferene repofe; While the moon's beams in quiv'ring radiance play Upon its furface : yet ere long, that tide May heave its foaming billows to the fhore. And the fea boil in one tempelluous roar. See here thy pidure, man I reafon, thy guide. Can lull each guft of paffion into reft; Her aid divine, her energy once loft. In what a fea of angry tumults toft. Raves the mad whirlwind of thy troubled breafl ! Blind paffion then can reafon's aid refute. And degradate the man to worfe than brute. SON- 208 SONNETS, SONNET VL Onfeeing Llangollen Val THOU, too captious of each airy fchemc. Fancy! thou dear dclufive traitor, fay. Are not thy charms the phantoms of a day. That mock poffelTion, like a fleeting dream ? Here could I fpend, if fuch had been my lot. Quiet my life ; nor fhould the fhiv'ring poor Depart unfed, unaided, from my door. " Content is wealth," the emblem of my cot. Here, by the brook, that gently babbles by. Should Hand my garden ; there the blufhing rofe And woodbine fhould their fweeteft fcent difclofe. But ah ! farewell thefe dreams ; — my big full eye Swells with the burfting tear— I think, how few The road to real happinefs purfuc ! SON. SONNETS, 209 SONNET VII. ProfpcB of Sun^rife from Snowdon, JtjLoW grand the fcene from this flupendous height ! How awfully fublime ! the king of day Flames in the eaft ; old ocean's waves difplay One globe of fire ! one boundlefs flood of light ! With what unclouded luflre blaze the Ikies ! While Mona's flats, ting'd with a golden hue, Burft with tranfcendent beauty on the view ; And, Man,* thy fcarce feen mountains proudly rife. Nature beneath, feems proftrate ! and my fight Can hardly grafp the vail immenfity ! Can then the mufe attempt to fing of thee. Nature's great God ! Father of life and light ! Who bade the fun his annual circle roll. Who guides, direfts, and animates the whole. • The Ifles of Anglefey and Man, are difcovered from Snowdon, SON- Ii20 SONNETSi SONNET VIII. To my Dog. ES, thoa haft been companion of my Tour, And partner of my toils ! haft rov'd with me. Thro* Cambria's rude and wild variety. And often footh'd the folitary hour With thy careffes ; yet falfe man can claim Superior reafon, claim a mind endued With love, with faith fulnefs, and gratitude; Love, a mere found, and gratitude, a name. Yes, faithful creature ! and when thou art gone. With fond attention fhall thy bones be laid. And a fmall tribute to thy mem'ry paid. In thefe few words, engraven on thy ftone : «< Here let in peace the faithful Sylvio lie, " Th€ trueft pidure of fidelity '.'» FINIS. Lately puhlijhed»- OBSERVATIONS relative chiefly to the Natural Hlflory, Pidlurefque Scenery, and Antiquitres of the Western Counties of England, made in the Years 1794 and 1796. In tnx'o Volumes, illujirated by amineralogical'Mapf andjixtun rienvs in Jquatintaf by A L K e n • ' BY W. G.MATON, F.A. andL.S.S. Price il. 1 6s. HUMAN LONGEVITY: recording the Deceafe of Seventeen Hundred and Twelve Perfons, who attained the AgQ of a Century, and upwards, from a. d. 66, to 1799, comprifmg a Period of Seventeen Centuries and thirty- three Years. With Anecdotes of the moft re- markable. BY JAMES EASTON. Price 6s, THE STOCKBROKER'S VADE-MECUM, and Ready Afliftant to all Perfons concerned in the Funds, in cal- culating the Amount of any Sum, Capital Stock, from One Penny to One Hundred Pounds, at any Rate, from Fifty to One Hundred ^ Cent. To which, among other ufeful Tables, is fubjoined, a Table, Ihewing the Sum, in Capital Stock, to be transferred, for the Redemption or Purchafeof the Land-Tax, BY EDWARD BALLARD. Pri(e is% 6d* bound. Lately piihlijlied. A DESCRIPTION OF STONEHENGE, on Salifbury Plain, extra(fled from the Works of the moft Eminent Authors ; with fome Modern Obfervations on that Stu- pendous Strufture. To which is added, Jn Account of the Fall of Three Stones i Jan, z* '^l 91 ' A new edition, with five Views, Price zr. A DESCRIPTION of the HOUSE and GARDENS at STOURHEAD, Wilts, the Seat of Sir Richard HoARE, Bart. With a Catalogue of the Pic- tures, ^r. Price IX. A BRIEF ACCOUNT of the LIFE and WRITINGS of TERENCE. For the Ufe of Schools. Price Is, FABLES, by John Gay, illuftrated with Notes^ By William Coxe, Redlor of Bemerton, ^hefecond edition, ivith an emblematic Frontifpiece. Price 2s. bound. J, Eafton, Printer, High-ftreet, Sarum, erf %:^^.^ W^^L\^ ^M^ wm ojJH'\ ' '^(^y^F*^ -^ Jw " ' "' Jfe^^ S^W ^^'-•^ ^"^^ ^^^ ^^5 ^^ S^^'/fl^fl^'^ JB »■ 1^ 5)V^Sa^k2?« *-^« ^^^^V V'-y§ jjij^^^^t"^^ ^^s ^m ^^3 1 E ^^^^^^i( Qm ^^fr. ■I ^^^^^^ ^^^? a ^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^H ^m