HIGH SCHOOL OF GLASGOW. SESSI035r 18SS-S9. $) 3 Irons. The Hon. the LORD PROVOST, MAGISTRATES, AND TOWN COONCIL. (Eommilttt of iBanagemEnt. The Hos. Sib JAMES LUMSDEX, Lord Provosi. Wm. MTSwen, Esq., Dean of Guild. BiitiE Thos. Muerat. Bailie Kobekt Neill. Bailie Wm. Miller. Wm. Kae Arthur, Esq. William Collixs, Esq, Jaues L. Lasq, Esq. Jakes Saluon, Esq. James Watso.v, Esq. JAMES WATSON, Esq., Convener. JAMES S.ALMOX, Esq., Sub-Convener. MATHEMATICAL & COMMESCIAL DEPARTMENT. (y]i4<^ Cprize. Obtaineil by. Fob proficiency, DILIGENCE, & GOOD CONDUCT, DUEING the SESSION. A.CiCiay^..Di^.M^U..jU.iAj-JJ^MasUT. UiQB &ceooL OF Olasoow, > ^ • TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES IN THE LEVANT. "Frontispieca MAP OF RIIODK8 Reduced tVuin Admiralty (hart j\"lb67 1 1 n' #5*1.1™ H R Htllemr Ruins M KaMeJiavai Btuni Ui/*Sro lith"totie pneen <: c TRAVELS & DISCOVERIES IN THE LEVANT. C. T. NEWTON, M.A. EEEPEB OF THE GBEEE AND ROMAN ANTIQUITIES, BRITISH UUSE0U. WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. IN TWO VOLUMES.— VOL. L DAY & SON, LIMITED, G, GATE STREET, LONDON, W.C. 1865. '[All rights reserved."] THE GETTY CENTER PREFACE. T N tlie second volume of the present work will be -*- found a popular account of my discoveries in Asia Minor, abridged fi'om the larger work, entitled "A History of Discoveries at Halicarnassus, Cnidus, and Branchidce." London, 1862. The plans and architectm'al palates which accom- pany this abridgment have, in like manner, been reduced from the plates in Vol. I. of the larger work. The sculptures from the Mausoleum are illustrated by three engraved plates repeated from Vol. II. of the former work, and by eleven photographs fi-om drawings now for the first time published. The plate of the Map of Caria, engraved for my former work imder the supervision of the late Admiral Washington, has been used in the present work by the kind permission of Captain Richards, R.N., Hydrographer to the Admiralty. The position of Lagina, as noted by Lieut. Smith, R.B., has been added to this Map, C. T. NEWTON. CONTENTS. PAGE Introduction 1 LETTER I. Departure from England — IMalta — Ruins at Krendi — Roman Tombs near Bengemma — Patras — Sarcophagus — Vostitza — Roman Statues — A rri val at Athens 3 II. Athens — Acropolis — Archaic Athene — Sculptiu-es in the The- seium — Warrior from Marathon — Sepulchral IStelm — Coins of Alexander the Great — The Anii)hiaraion — Inscriptions there — My cense — The Lions at the Gateway 15 in. Constantinople — First Impressions — The Walls — Depopula- tion of the City since the Byzantine Empire — Ancient Mosaics in Mosque of Kachreie — St. Sophia — Museum of St. Irene — Fragment from Frieze of Mausoleum — Jaw from Bronze Serpent — Silver Plate with Figure of Diana — Collections of Coins — Smyrna — M. Ivanoff's Coins — Arrival at Mytilene— The Pasha 37 IV. Description of Mytilene — Its ancient Features — The En- virons — Character of tlie Inhabitants — Roman Aqueduct at Morea — A Gi-eek Fyrgos — Therma; — Paphila — Ancient Remains at Achlea — Cape Zeitin, the ancient Malea 49 Vni CONTENTS. V . PAGE The Archbishop of Mytilene — A Greek Baptism — The Marble Chair of Potamo, son of Lesbonax — Anecdote respecting him — Inscription relating to Theophanes — The Greek School — Inscrijation in Church of St. Therapon 63 VI. A Turkish MejUs — British Consular Protection — System of Agriculture in Asia Minor — Cultivation of the Olive — Process of Making Oil — Amount Exported from Mji;ilene 73 VII. A Levantine Steamer — Tour with Mr. Hughes — Ayasso — Greek Hospitality — Ascent of Mount Olympus — Pyn-ha — Gulf of KaUoni — Ancient Remains at Tern enos Si VIII. Eresos — Acropolis — Greek Inscription, containing a letter from King Antigonos — Scenery about Eresos — Costume of the Women — Ancient Remains near Mesotopo — Makra — Marine Products in Gulf of Kalloni noticed by Aristotle... 93 IX. An-ival of Mr. J. E. Blunt — My New House — Style of Build- ing in Mytilene — Servants and Food in the Levant — Tour with two Travellei-s — Mandamatha — Custom of offering embroidered work in the Greek Churches, derived from antiquity — Inscription near Palaio Liman — Ancient Re- mains at Anoikto — Position of ^Silgiros — Molivo, the ancient Methy mna — Petra — Agia Paraskeue — Early Chi-istian Chapel cut in the rock 102 X. An-ival of Ali Nehad Effendi— Tijaret Mejlis— Castle of MytOene — The Gatelusio Family — Then- Coins — Mosques in the Castle — Robbers in Smyrna — Installation of the Archbishop of Mytilene as Member of the Synod at Con- stantinople ■ 113 CONTENTS. IX XI. PAGE Visit to Salonica and tlie Troad — The Incantadas — The Arch of Constantine — Relief of Pan and the NjTnphs at Gallipoli — Inscriptions on Spoons found at Lampsacus — Inscription — Dardanelles — Mr. Calvert's House — Tour in the Troad — Hill near Bounarliashi — C'liimenlai — Latin Inscriptions relatiag to the Emperors Claudius and Nero — • Seven Granite Columns near Koushibashi — Hellenic Fortress atChigri — Hot Springs at Lisgyar — Temple of Apollo Smin- thius — Alexandria Troas — Kalifetli — Roman Mosaics — Ilium Novum — Mr. Calvert's Excavations on supposed site of Ophryuium ; in Khani Tepe ; in Necropolis near the Kemar — Discovery of Greek Vases — Singular Ordeal for the Discovery of a Thief 121 XII. First Impressions of Rhodes — A Cassiote Feud 137 XIII. Ancient Rhodes — Its Harbours and Arsenals — Description of the Present Town — The Fortifications — Castello — Amboise Gate — The Head of the Dragon — Church of St. John — Grand Master's Palace — Street of the Knights — Hospital — • Mosques — Convents — Domestic Architecture — Jewish Quarter — Eastern Mole — Tower of De Naillac — Mole and Castle of St. Nicholas — Posts of the different Langues — Tombstone of Thomas Newport — Armoury — Ancient Acropolis — Stadium — Inscriptions — Sites of Temples — Remains of Mole on Western Shore — Probable Extension of the Ancient Harbours in thLs direction — Position of the Colossus — Tomb near Symbulli — Probable Extent of the Ancient City on this side 146 XIV. Visit to Monastery of Zambika — The Archimandrite Nikan- dros — Costunie of the Rliodian Peasant Women — Castle at Archangelo — Koskino — A Peasant's House — Lindos Ware 182 CONTENTS. XV. My Muleteer Panga — Journey to Lindoa — The Castle — The Ancient Acropolis — Inscriptions — Apolakkia — Inscription containing Decree of the People of Netteia — Monolithos — Frescoes in Chapel — Hellenic Tower — Siana — Hellenic Tombs and Eemains — Acropolis of Agios Phokas — Ancient Polygonal Masonry — Hellenic Eemains at BasHika ; at Agros ; at CasteUos — Embonas — Meaning of this Name — Villa Nova — Character of the Rhodian Peasantry — The Priests — Popular Superstitious and Customs 191 XVI. A Cruise with Mr. Finlay to Scio — The Castle — Inscription on a Gun — Ismael Pasha — English Consul at Scio ia time of Henry VIII. — Greek Boatmen — Patmos — My imsatis- factory Interview with the Primates — The Libraiy — The Monks — The Monastery — Calymnos — Ancient Inscriptions there — Cos — Antiquities — Coin of Termera — Fountain of Burinna 214 XVII. Tour in Rhodes — Alferma — Apollona — Fimdokli — Demelia — Salakko — Agios Elias — Kappi — Kalavarda — Gi-eek Vases — Fanes — Hellenic Tombs near these Villages — Temple of Apollo Erethimios at Theologcs — Sepulchral Relief at Villa Nova— Kremasto 23:i XVIII. Visit to Cos in the Sampson — A Tiu-kish Trial — Pyli — Tomb of Charmylos — Antimachia — Inscriptions — Kephalas — ■ Greek Acropolis — Ancient Remains — Inscription contain- ing Letter from Emperor Tiberius _. 240 XIX. Arrival of Lord Carlisle in the Firebrand — Lord C.'s lUness — Dr. McCraith — Diseases Prevalent in Rhodes — Second Visit to Calymnos 248 CONTENTS. XI XX. lAOB Preparations for War with Russia — A Country Sermon — Anecdote of a former Pasha of Rhodes 253 XXI. Trianda — Phileremo, the Acropolis of lalysos — Gothic Build- ings — Frescoes— Remains of Hellenic Fortifications — Pro- bable Site of the Town of lalysos— Arrival of M. Berg — Superstition of the Rhodians respecting Portraits — De- parture for England 257 XXII. Return to Turkey vid Athens— Second Visit to the Amphi- araion — The Ecole Franqaise at Athens— A Cruise in the Leander — Syra — Hostility of the Greeks to the Latin Population — Pii-ates — Return to Mytileue — Comparison of the Condition of Society there and at Rliodes — My Turkish Schoolmaster 261 XXIII. A Cruise to Tenedos with Ismael Pasha — His Character — Tenedos — Tlie Wine Trade — Imports and Exports of the Island 267 XXIV. The Courban Bairam — A Greek Funeral 274 XXV. Departure for CaljTunos — Smyrna — Discovery of Roman Remains near Caravan Bridge — The British Hospital 280 XXVI. Rhodes — Calymnos — Necropolis — Excavations in Tombs 283 XXVII. Calymniote Divers — The Sponge Trade — Character of the Population of Caljnnnos 291 XU CONTENTS. XXVIII. Excavations on an Acropolis ; on the Site of the Temple of Apollo — Inscription relating to a Trial — BuUclings near the Temple — Summaiy of Inscriptions found in Calj-mnos — Argos — Linari — Telendos — Vathy 299 XXIX. Manoli the Cassiote — Discovery of Bronze Relief — Departure from Calymnos — Budrum — Discovery of Lions fi'om Mau- soleum in the Walls of the Castle 320 APPENDIX. Tour in Lycia by Mr D. E. Colnaghi 337 Tour in Mytilene by the same 347 Notes 351 LIST OF PLATES. Frontispiece. — ISIap of Rhodes Plate. To/ace Page 1. Fragment of Frieze of Mausoleum in tlie Museum at Constantinople, from a Drawing l)y Mrs. C. T. Newtox 44 2. Map of Mytilene 49 3. Roman Aqueduct, Mytilene. Etched by W. Severn, from a Photogi-aph by D. E. Colnaghi 58 4. Plan of Town of Rhodes 149 5. View of Rhodes overlooking the harbour. Etched by W. Severn, fi-om a Photograph by D. E. Colnaghi... 149 G. Rhodes. — D'Amboise Gate. Etched by W. Severn, from a Photogiaph by D. E. Colnaghi 151 7. Rhodes. — Fosse D'Amboise Gate. Aquatint by W. J. Alais, from a Photograph by D. E. Colnaghi 151 8. Rhodes. — Arch near Church of St. John. Aquatint by W. J. Alais, from a Photogi-aph by D. E. Colnaghi... 152 9. Rhodes. — Auberge de France. Aquatint by "W. J. Alais, from a Photogi-aph by D. E. Colnaghi 155 10. Rhodes.— Street of Knights. Etched by W. Severn, from a Photograph by D. E. Colnaghi 158 11. Rhodes. — Tower of De Naillac. Etched by A. Severn, from a Photograph by D. E. Colnaghi 176 12. The Archimandi-ite Nikandros. Etched by A. Severn, from a Drawing bv Mrs. C. T. Newton 182 XIV LIST OF PLATES. Flate. To face Page 13. Rhodes. — Interior of Peasant's house. Aquatint by W. J. Alais, from a Drawing by A. Beeg 189 14. Rhodes. — Lindos. Aquatint by W. J. Alais, from a Drawing by A. Berg 193 15. Boreas and Oreitliyia. Photogi'aphed by F. Bedford, from a Drawing by Mrs. C. T. Newton 330 16. Myi-a. — Rock Tomb. Etched by W. Severn, £i-om a Photogi-aph by D. E. Colnaghi 343 LIST OF WOODCUTS. PAOE 1 . Fa9ade of Rock-cut Chapel, Agia Paraskeue 112 2. Giwmd Plan of same 112 3. Monogram in Castle of Mytilene 115 4. 5. Silver Coins attributed to Hekatommos 226 6. Silver Coin of Termei-a 228 7. Angle of Pediment, Temple of Apollo, Calymna 308 8. Ground Plan of Building, iiic?. 309 9. View of Lion in Wall of Castle, Budrum 335 ERRATA. Page 25, line 17, for "Eileithya" reml " Eileithpa." 29, ,, 31, /or " Ampliiaraia "' read "Amphiaraia. 73, ,, \-i for "Therapia" read "Therapon." 91, ,, 2i, ybr " TrpoaoTEtoV " read " wpodurcwi:" 99, „ 13, /or "Ereso" reatf "Eresos." 123, „ 27,/or"Oe"read""Oc." „ „ 28, for "^(^[tji" read "■ jikjij." 127, ,, 7, yor " BoiuTiarbaslii " read " Bounarbashi." 221, ,, IG, y'or "in hLs favour" read "in favour." 244, „ 26, /or "of" reac/ "on." 248, „ 13, /or "Phatanista" recK^ "Platanista." 257, „ 25, ybr " Rhoda Vecchia" read " Rodi Veccliio." TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES IN THE LEVANT. INTRODUCTION. TN February, 1852, having been recently appointed -L by Lord Granville to the Vice-Consulship of Mytilene, I visited the Levant for the first time. In receiving this appointment from the Foreign Office, I was, at the same time, instructed to use such opportunities as presented themselves for the acqui- sition of antiquities for the British Museum, and with this ol^ject I was authorized to extend my researches beyond the limits of my Vice-Consulship ; a small annual allowance being granted me for travelling expenses. In the volume now offered to the public I have recorded the researches and observations during a residence in the Levant of seven years, from 1852 to 1859. The series of letters in which the work is arranged, were for the most part written in the Levant, at the date which they bear. Much new matter has, however, been inserted in various parts of the text, and these additions have been thrown, for the sake of uniformity, into the form of letters. Perhaps a B 2 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES more united and harmonious composition could have been produced by recasting tlie whole of the original letters into one continuous narrative, than by such an amalgamation as I have attempted ; but the record of a traveller's first impressions, in their original freshness, will, in most cases, interest the public more than any subsequent composition which may be distilled, in the laboratory of his memory, out of confused and faded images. In the series of Letters I have inserted several fi'om my friend Mr. Dominic Ellis Colnaghi, now H.M. Consul at Bastia, w4io left England with me in 1852, and of whose companionship and assistance I had the advantage during the greater part of my sojourn in the Levant. TX TUP r.l'.VA.VT. LKTTKll I. Athens, JIarch 20, 1852. We left Southampton on the 17th February, 1852, in the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamer " Montrose," from which we were trans- ferred at Gibraltar to the " Eipon," then on her way to Alexandria with the Indian and Australian mails. As I passed thi'ough the Straits for the first time and saw the blue expanse of the Mediterranean stretching far away before me, I felt that the true interest of my voyage had there and then com- menced. I had made my first step on that ancient highway of navigation of which the Pillars of Hercules were so long the extreme western boun- dary. My destination was that Ionian coast whence, in the 7th century before the Christian era, issued forth those enterprising mariners who first among the Greeks traversed the length of the Mediter- ranean and boldly competed with Phoenician traders in tlie ports of Spain. As, sailing on the track of these early adventurers, I thought over their Odyssean voyages, the recollection seemed to inspire me with fresh hope and energy. I compared myself to one of the old Phoc^ean mariners seeking for a Tartessus in unknown Western waters, and long cherislicd visions of discoveries in the Levant seemed to ripen into a positive presentiment of B 2 4 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES success as I advanced on my way towards that land of promise. We arrived at Malta after a very prosperous voyage, and were most kindly welcomed by my old friends Captains Graves and Spratt, who took a warm interest in my projects, and gave me much valuable information respecting that Levantine world in which I was about to establish myself, and to which I was as yet an utter stranger. As we had to wait several days at ]\Ialta for a steamer to Patras, I took the opportunity of visiting the curious ruins at Krendi, which are generally considered to be of Phoenician origin. These ruins are situated on the south coast of Malta, opposite to a small island called Filfile. They consist of two groups of enclosures formed by masses of stones ranged upright like a paling, over which others are placed horizontally. Some of these stones are from 1 5 to 20 feet high. The whole have been quarried out of the tertiary calcareous rock on which the enclosures are built. The principal group consists of tliree large elliptical enclosures, set obliquely to which are three smaller enclosures, also elliptical ; this is situated on higher ground than the other group, which is nearer the sea. Within the outer enclosures are inner walls, in which there is an approximation to regular masonry. The lower part of these inner walls is composed of uprights about six feet in height, above which large blocks are built into regular horizontal courses. In the principal tem])le are two doorways, through which the central enclosure is approached fi-om the IN THE LEVANT. 5 east. These have jambs, ornamented with small holes, evidently drilled with a screw, the marks of the worm being visible in each hole. The angles of the jambs are cut away so as to form a kind of pilaster, a slight projection in the upper part of which serves to indicate a capital. The jambs of the doorways, the lintels, and the threshold-stones, are pierced with holes, showing the position of the hinges and bolts of the doors. The irregular ellipses formed by these walls terminate at either end in a kind of apse ; in several of these apses the inner wall remains to a considerable height, and bends inwards as it rises, as if it had converged to a coni- cal roof, formed l)y approaching horizontal courses of masonry. Within the apses are no remains at present of fallen vaulting, as might have been expected if these recesses had been covered over ; but the disappearance of all such evidence i». sifu may be accounted for by the fact that these ruins have been cleared out within a recent i)eriod. The inner walls of these ellipses are pierced with a number of square apertures cut out of the large blocks, some of which seem intended to admit light or sound, like the openings in Gothic churches to which ecclesiologists have given the name hagioscope. Others communicate with small chambers like cup- boards, cut in the rock. Within the enclosures are several altars, formed by large slabs of stone set upon short pillars. One very tall piece of rock towers above these enclosures. Steps cut in the rock lead up to the top, in which is a hollow, as if for a man to stand in. Perhaps this 6 TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES isolated I'ock served as a watch-tower or place for signals. The lower group is of smaller extent than the upper one, but has its inner walls, doorways, and apertures better preserved. In both groups the space enclosed within the walls is floored over with a rude concrete, composed of gravel and small pieces of stone. In the upper group I found a block of stone in form like a square Roman altar, on each face of which, within an oblong panel, is a rude relief representing a tree in a basket. Close by this stone is another, on which is carved a rude spiral or volute. In the upper group were also found seven small female figures, cut out of Maltese stone, a skull, a number of human bones, and some stones, shaped like women's breasts. The figures, which are now preserved in the Museum at Malta, range from 1 ft. 8 in. to 1 ft. 2 in. in height.^ Four are entirely nude, the others draped. Two are seated. The heads are broken away. The proportions and execution of these figures are alike barbarous. The enormous hips and breasts, and bulging outlines, suggest the notion that they are of African origin. At any rate the type represented is imlike that of any of the races of the ancient world, so far as we know them throuo;h art. In both groups of enclosures great quantities of broken pottery have been found. Having obtained authority from the Governor, Sir William Reid, to remove this pottery to the Museum at Malta, where it might be properly cleaned and examined, I trans- ported two cartloads of it, and removed at the same IN TJIK LEVANT. ( time the curious altar with a tree on it, wliich the sacrilegious hand of the Britisli sightseer had al- ready begun to chip and deface. The pottery I found to be of several kinds ; black ware of a heavy, brittle kind, made of black earth, and ornamented with rude rows of notches or indented triangular marks ; finer black ware, less brittle and more polished ; coarse red ware, and coarse and fine drab ware. Some of the finer black and di'ab ware had incised pattei'ns of the rudest kind. All the varieties seem to have been baked in the fire, and have a polished surface. I sent some specimens to the British Museum. Pottery somewhat similar in character has been found in the island of Jersey. Dr. Henry Barth, the well-known African explorer, has given a detailed description and a plan of these remains in Gerhard's " Archaologische Zeitung" for 1848.^ He supposes that both groups of enclosures were hy])fethral temples, enclosed within a common peribolus wall, of which he found some traces. According to his plan, the entry into the upper temple is from the east ; a doorway opposite to this entry leads into the middle chamber. In the eastern chamber he found an aperture in the wall, communi- cating with a small outer chamber ; through this hole he supposes that oracles were delivered by the priests. In the museum at Malta is a conical stone, three feet high, resembling in form the well-known symbol of Aphrodite, placed in her temples at Paphos and elsewhere.'^ This stone. Dr. Barth states to have been found in the most eastern chamber of the upper temple . 8 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES The enclosures at Krendi are very similar to the remains at Gozo, known by the name, Torre dei Giganti ; but these latter present certain differences in plan, which have been carefully noted by Dr. Barth. Two heads fi-om female figures discovered within the enclosures at Gozo, have been published by Delia Marmora, and seem to be no less barbarous than those at Krendi.* On the whole, it may, I think, be inferred that the remains in both islands are the work of some race much lower in the scale of civi- lization than the Phoenicians as we know them in ancient history. I am disposed to regard these temples as the work of some indigenous peojile, who liavino; been broug-ht into contact with Phoenician settlers at some time or other, imbibed from this source some scanty tradition of the arts of civili- zation ; whether, however, these remains should be assigned to a remote or to a late period of pagan antiquity, can only be determined by further evidence. The day before I left Malta, Mr. Lushington, the chief Secretaiy of the Government, invited me to be present at the opening of some tombs, at a place called Santi, near Bengemma. These are all cut in the solid rock, on the slope of a hill facing the north, and commanding a beautiful view of the sea. Our party was accompanied by a Maltese gentleman. Dr. Onofrio, who found a tomb when required, with as much sagacity as a pointer finds a partridge. Bach tomb is entered by an oblong aperture cut in the rock, about six feet deep and twice as broad as an English grave, in the side of which is a flight IN THE LEVANT. 9 of steps. At the bottom of tliese is a square open- ing large enough to admit easily a man's body, which leads to a small chamber with a curved ceiling. Each chamber contained one or more skeletons laid on a ledge, and several vases. In one of the graves the heads lay to the N.B., in another to the N.W. The pottery was coarse and imvarnished, of a drab colour, and is probably of the late Roman period. Roman coins are found in these tombs, and as I was informed, Greek coins and vases ; but I could not verify this assertion, for everything at Malta is dispersed as soon as found, from the want of a well- organized museum. It is to be regretted that these tombs are not explored in a more systematic manner than at present, when gay parties meet to hold then" pic- nics over the open grave ; the pale ale and cham- pagne corks contrasting strangely with the broken vases, relics probably of a funeral feast held on this spot fifteen hundred years ago. We left Malta in the English mail steamer " Medina," and arrived at Patras after a very stormy passage. Here I first saw a Greek town. The strange half-savage look of the inhabitants, with their shaggy capotes and white kilts, seemed quite in harmony with the wild desolate character of the landscape, shut in by high mountains, which at the time of om- visit were covered with snow. We were most kindly received by the British Vice- Consul, Mr. William Wood, who has been engaged in the currant trade at Patras for some years. He took us to see a fine marble sarcophagus in 10 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES the garden of a M. Kritikos. On the front is a relief of eight naked boys, with the type of Cvipid, but wingless. At one end of the sarcophagus are Bellerophon, Pegasus, and the Chimsera; at the opposite end a female sphinx seated. These sculp- tures are executed in a better style than is generally found on sarcophagi. The bottom inside is perforated with round holes, five inches above which is a thin slab. The body, probably, was placed on this, the perforations below being intended to drain off all that was dis- solved in the process of natural decay. Having to wait for an Austrian steamer to take lis to Corinth, we rode to see a castle at Rliion, the Gibraltar which commands the narrowest point in the gulf. In this fortress were a number of prisoners, the most determined cut-throats and bandits in all Greece. They were kept in cells, through the bars of which we could see them. Their eyes had a ferocious glare, like those of wild beasts in a cage. Two sentinels were pacing up and down with their muskets loaded, ready to fire in case there was any attempt to escape, and a cannon was placed so as to command the whole line of windows. One of these brigands managed to escape two or three years ago, and afterwards committed foiu'teen murders, and when he was again tried and condemned, threatened the judge and jury with death. "\Yhen he was taken to execution, he managed to conceal a small knife, with which he cut his cords, and then defied the execu- tioner. It happened, however, that among the IX THE LF.VAXT. . 11 guard present were tn^o soldiers whose brother he had killed, and they rushed in and stabbed him with their swords till he was disabled, when the execu- tioner finished the work of the law with a long- knife. I was assured that such scenes are by no means uncommon at executions at Patras. As the Austrian steamer did not come in, we proceeded to Vostitza in a small English steamer, which having to tack against a head-wind, took twelve hours for this little voyage. On landing at Vostitza we were very kindly received by a Greek agent of Mr. Wood, to whom I had a letter of introduction. At this port a large jjortion of the currants are shipped for exportation, and we saw on our arrival the materials of many a future plum -pudding rolling down to the beach in casks. The currant merchants here complain at present that the supply of currants is too abundant for the demand. It appears that the growers of currants have adopted the plan of cutting rings in the bark of the tree, just below the bunches, by which process a greater quantity, but an inferior quality of fi'uit, is produced. The scenery here was very grand ; snow-capped mountains hemmed us in on every side ; both here and at Patras the ground near the shore has been rent and convulsed by earthquakes into strange fantastic forms. The market-place presented a strange appearance to our civilized eyes, and we gazed with wonder on the wild-looking shepherds' dogs ; the men in their shaggy dresses, seated on a pile of baggage on the top of small mountain 12 TKAVELS AND DISCOVERIES ponies ; the women standing bare-legged under a gigantic plane tree, trampling on and bleaching the linen in the fresh springs which burst forth from the shore close to the sea. This primitive mode of washing seems unchanged from the time of Nausicaa. The plane-tree measures more than 40 feet in girth. Vostitza is the site of the ancient ^gium, which, when Pausanias visited Greece, contained a number of temples and statues, nearly all trace of which has disappeared. It is probable, as Leake sup- poses, that much of the arcliitecture was of brick, as the fields near the town are strewn with frag- ments of brick and painted tile. In the house of one of Mr. Wood's agents, called Aristides Georgios, I saw two fine statues of white marble, and some fragments of a third, found in the garden attached to the house. One of these statues ap- peared to be a Mercury, very similar to the celebrated one in the Vatican ; the other a female figure, with a head-dress like that of the younger Faustina, pro- bably an empress in the character of some goddess. These statues are well preserved and are good specimens of art of the Roman period. Of the third figure there remain only the head and the right hand, which has held a small vase. Some years ago a tessellated pavement was found in the town, but is now nearly destroyed. A little to the east of Vostitza, in a field overlooking the sea, I noticed part of a fluted column and some remains of buildings which had just been dug up ; near them was a piece of massive wall. The column was of travertine covered with stucco. IN THE LEVANT. 13 After Avaitino: at Vostitza till the Austrian steamer was due, finding that it did not arrive, we took a Greek guide and horses, and rode along the coast to Corinth : this occujDied two days. The scenery was extremely wild and beautiful. Along the coast there is a high mountain-range, sometimes over- hanging the sea, sometimes leaving a narrow strip of alluvial shore, covered with arlnitus and other shrul)s. The road is not what would be called a road in England ; it is either a sheep-track or a goat- track, according to the nature of the country it traverses ; sometimes winding along the precipitous edge of the high cliffs, sometimes disappearing in the brushwood and shino-le below. Bridges thei^e are none, and rivers can only be crossed when in a fordable state : fortunately they are not very deep. Along these wild tracks the little Greek horses clatter in a long file, always following one behind another ; they are very sure-footed, rather mulish in temper, but sometimes indulge in a won- derful gallop, ventre a terre. Being shod with shoes which cover nearly the entire foot, they bear being rattled along rough ground better than English horses. After the first day's journey we made our first acquaintance with a Greek khan. This primitive hostel may be described as a large bare apartment occupying the whole interior of the house, which has no second story. The roof is supported by an arch of masonry, thrown across the house fi-om wall to wall. In one corner is the fire ; the smoke finds its way through a hole in the roof. J i TIJAVELS AXl) lUSCUVERIKS or into the ejes of the iubabitants, according to the direction of the wind or the character of the fuel. At this fire all the cooking takes place ; the inmates of the khan and the guests all sit round and warm themselves till their beds are ready, when everybody turns in. The brass lamp lit with oil is extinguished, and the weary traveller looking up- wards fi'om his pillow through the tiles, sees a star twinkle here and there, or feels the dripping of the shower, according to the weather. The bed is a kind of wooden settle or dresser, Avith a quUtiug generally well peopled with aborigines. After the dirt and discomfort of such a night's lodsincr, for which our host demanded an exorbi- tant sum, we rejoiced to find ourselves in our saddles in the fresh morning air. To me, who had been so long pent up in the close and murky atmosphere of London, the silence and solitude of the route, occa- sionally interrupted by meeting a string of mules, or a party of shepherds driving their herds with fierce wolf-like dogs ; the space of the sky around, and the combination of the wildest mountain scenery .with the richest and most delicate colour- ing, had an ineflable charm. To my unagricul- tural eye, it was a relief to look at a country still very much as nature made it, and which tillage had not yet cut up into those plats and patches which so distiu'b the breadth and repose of the landscape. On approaching the isthmus, we saw in the distance the steep rock of the Acro-Corinthus, which towers above the plain in majestic isolation, and from the summit of whicli a large part of Greece is seen IN THE LEVANT. 1-5 stretched out like a model map. As we drew near Corinth, we found ourselves again within tlie pre- cincts of civilization : first came the phenomenon of ruts and roads ; then here and there a wheeled vehicle, such as we had not seen during two days' journey ; then cultivated fields and gardens ; at last, when we ffot into the miserable villao-e, we found a regular inn, full of English tourists, whose presence rather disturbed the impression of the scene. We took a sailing-boat at Kalamaki, and got to Athens after a night's becalming in an open boat, crowded with ladies. Fortunately the weather was very fine. As we entered Athens in the early morning, I saw the colonnade of the Parthenon lit u]) into sudden splendour with the rays of the god Helios. IT. Athens, March 1.5, 185i. The principal monuments of Athens have been so frequently delineated and described, that a traveller, on first arriving, recognizes on every side long- familiar forms, and his first impressions lose perhaps something of their vividness in proportion to this previous familiarity. But nothing that I had ever read or seen at all prepared me for the beauty of the Athenian landscape ; nor can any one, without visiting Athens, understand how exquisitely the ancient edifices are designed in relation to this landscape, and how much the subtle charm of their proportions is enhanced by this combination. 16 TRAVELS AND DISCOYERIES The key-note of this hai'inony is the rock of the Acropolis. When this great natural landmark became the impregnable citadel and hallowed sanctuary of the Athenian people, their genius converted it at the same time into the noblest base which has ever been employed in architecture. When our eye glances from the precipitous weather-stained sides of this rocky base to the marble columns standing in relief against the sky above, there is a sudden transition from the picturesque confusion of nature to the symmetry of art, from irregular to geometrical forms, from rugged surfaces to surfaces wrought to a polish like that of ivory, and jointed with the precision of the finest inlaid- work. The suddenness of this transition does not shock, but, on the contrary, delights the eye ; there is harmony in the apparent discord. But if Ave take away one of the two elements out of which this harmony is composed, the charm is dissolved. If, for instance, such an edifice as the Parthenon were planted on a dead level, and mewed up in the hot bricky streets of a crowded city, much of the original eSect of the design would be destroyed. So again, if the Acropolis were dismantled of all with which art has invested it, and despoiled of its ci'own of temples, it would remain a naked barren rock, unredeemed by human sympathies, just as it must have appeared to the first settlers who pitched their tents in the plain of Attica. The attempt in modern Europe to transplant architecture from its natural soil, and to imitate it IN THE LEVANT. 17 mecliauically by line and rule, must necessarily fail, inasmuch as we cannot transplant with the architec- ture the climate and scenery which first inspired the genius of Greek architects, nor the peculiar habits of thono'ht which blended the fortress and the sanctuary into one, and made the same spot the centre and rallying-point of religions and patriotic feelings. One of the objects which interested me most on the Acropolis was an archaic figure of Pallas Athene, in Parian marble, placed near the lodge of the custode. The goddess is seated in a rude chair ; her costume is a tunic reaching to the feet, over which a large asgis falls like a tippet to the waist. In the centre of this a^gis is a smooth boss, on which, doubtless, has been painted a Gorgon's head ; all round the edge of the a?gis are holes, in which metallic ornaments, j^i'obably serpents, have been inserted ; the studs by which the sleeves have been looped up on the arms have also been of metal, the holes for the insertion being left. The head and both arms from the elbows are wanting. The pos- ture is formal and angular ; the knees are close together, but the left foot a little advanced : the drapery is -\\Tought in parallel channels. This statue is about -i ft. 6 in. high. It is said to have been found at the grotto called Aglaurium, situated at the foot of the Acropohs, immediately below the temple of Athene Polias. It has been thought, therefore, that in this figure we have a reproduction of the original wooden idol, ^occvov, of Athene Polias, which was worshipped in her temple on the Acropolis, and ..3 ? c 18 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES which the sacrilegious hand of Xerxes destroyed, with the other tutelary deities of Athens.^ The smaller fragments of sculpture and architec- ture found in the course of the excavations on the Acropolis have been carefully collected by M. Pit- takys, and temporarily built up -with mortar into low walls, of which they form the facing. This primitive way of arrangement has the great ad- vantage of preventing the abstraction of portable objects, which is unfortunately an inveterate habit among travellers. In the cisterns on the Acropolis are a number of fragments of the statues of the Parthenon, for a knowledge of the existence of which I was indebted to Comte De Laborde's beautiful work on the Par- thenon.^ Among these remains are portions of the horses from the chariot of Athene in the western pediment, which was still intact when Morosini took Athens in 1G87. After the siege he attempted to lower this matchless group, but unfortunately the tackle he employed gave way, and the sculptures were broken to pieces. There are also a number of arms and legs from the pedimental figures, and many fragments of the frieze. Is is much to be regretted that the Greek Govern- ment does not provide a suitable place of shelter for the many precious sculptures which are lying about the Acropolis, exposed, not only to the weather, but to what is worse, the brutal violence of travellers, who would mutilate a fine work of art, merely for the sake of possessing an unmeaning relic. I saw IN THE LEVANT. 19 with much coucern the injury which had been in- flicted on one of the finest slabs of the Meze, — one representing seated fig-ures of deities, which has been discovered since Lord Elgin's visit, and of which a cast exists in the British Museum. The hand of one of the seated figm-es in this relief overhung the chair in a most easy and natural position ; it was the more precious, because we have very few exam- ples of hands from the finest period of Greek art. One day a foreign visitor, watching an opportunity when the cusfode's back was turned, broke off this hand. I regret that I cannot record the name of this miscreant ; but I heard that he was a midship- man in the Austrian service, and that his Govern- ment punished this exploit with a heavy fine. The inside of the Temple of Theseus has been converted into a temporary Museum, in which have been deposited a number of most interesting sculp- tures from various sites, so huddled together that none of them can be properly seen. Here may be seen the celebrated figure in relief, of a warrior, found near Bram'on, with the name of the sculptor, Aristokles, inscribed on the base. This name occurs on another base of a statue found at Athens, and it is supposed that the sculptor to whom it refers is one mentioned by Pausanias, as the father of Kleoetas. It has been thought, from the evidence of these two inscriptions, that his date might be between Olymp. 75 and 85, B.C. 480 — 440. The name of the artist of this relief being known, and the date thus approximately fixed, the reUef is consequently of the highest interest, as a specimen c 2 20 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES of arcliaic art, whicli may be assigned witli proba- bility to the Athenian school.'' In this figure, as in the pictures on archaic vases, thelirtist has attempted too literal a rendering of nature, and has thus crowded his work with details, rather to the detriment of the general effect. This over-minuteness is characteristic of Assyrian, as contrasted with Egyptian art. The details of the armour are very carefully given. The cuirass has been painted. On the shoulder-strap is a star ; on the breast a lion's face, on a red ground ; below this is a nifeander band across the body, which is tra- versed obliquely by a crimson band, apparently a lace or sti'ing, knotted on the breast, and terminating at the side in an ornament like a thunderbolt. Below these ornaments and about the waist of the figure is another band, ornamented with zigzags. The ground on which the figure is relieved is red. The left hand holds a spear. On the head appears to be a skull-cap, only covering the crown : the hair falls in parallel rows of ringlets. The beard is channelled in zie'zao-s. It is interesting to compare this figure with another work of the archaic period in the Theseium, executed in a different school, and probably at an earlier epoch. This is a naked male figure broken off" at the knees. The face has the rigid smile and peculiar type of countenance which cha- racterize the head of Pallas on the early coins of Athens ; the corners of the eyes being turned up towards the ears. The hair, arranged in regular curls on the forehead, falls down the back in long ra THE LEVANT. 21 tresses ; tlie arms hang down at the sides in the Egyptian manner. The shoulders are broad, the waist pinched in, as if by stays ; the line of the upper arm more varied and flowing than is at first sight reconcilable with the general archaic character of the face. Thus the whole statue seems to exhibit a struggle between two schools — the Canonical, which worked according to prescribed types, and the Natural, which trusted more to individual observation than to rules. This statue probably represents an Apollo. It much resembles in style one transported from Athens to Vienna by M. Prokesch von Osten.* In the Theseium I also saw a colossal female head of wliich a cast may be seen in the 1st Elgin Room of the British Museum (No. 106*). This is in a very grand style, and one of the few extant colossal heads which can be referred with probability to the school of Phidias. It has been fitted on in the clumsiest manner to a torso which does not be- long to it, and which mars its beauty by ill-matched proportions. It is uncertain where this head was found. I have heard it stated that it was brought from ^gina, when the Museum there was broken up. In the Theseium is a very numerous and interest- ing collection of sepulchral delce and reliefs, which have been carefully described by Professor Gerhard, in a valuable report on the remains of art at Athens.® These sepidchral monuments consist of three classes : stelce, marble vases, and rehefs on slabs. Many specimens of the first kind may be seen in the Elgin collection in the British Museum. The usual 22 TEAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES form of a stele is a narrow flat slab of marble, with a height varying from one to twelve feet, and in shape somewhat resembling a modern Tiu-kish tombstone, of which it probably suggested the form. The top generally terminates either in a floral ornament sculp- tured in relief, often very rich and flowing in its lines, or in a small pediment. Below this the name of the deceased person is inscribed, with or without a com- position in relief. These designs are usually in very low relief set in a sunk square. In the stelce which only bear an inscription, it is probable that a similar design was painted on the plain surface. The com- position in these reliefs is usually very simple ; not more than two or three figures are introduced, and aU in the same plane. In this simplicity of treat- ment, these compositions remind us at once of the vase-pictures of the best period. In both cases, the limitation of space restricted the artist to few figures and to a single plane. The scenes in these sepulchral reliefs seem to be for the most part domestic ; and the mystic and symbolical import which some archaeologists have discovered in them seems for the most part far- fetched. It is probable that the figures represent the family of the person whom the stele commemo- rates ; but no attempt seems to have been made to reproduce their individual likeness, as in the Roman sarcophagi. The most fi'equent scenes represent a seated female figure, surrounded by others, who are usually standing up, and who are evidently the surviving members of her family. In many of these compositions, one of these bystanders presents to the IN THE LEVANT. 'Jo deceased a small casket containing funeral offerings. The ages and rank of the different members of the family are discriminated by inequality of height. In some cases the seated female figure is surrounded by others, who attend on her toilette. In the majority of these scenes, the dramatis persoiice are female. The male figures are fi-equently youthful athletes, distinguished by the strigil, the small vase (lehjthos) containing oil, and other attributes of the iialcestra. Old men are rarely represented. The evidence afforded by these designs leads to the conclusion that, while all the subjects have a funereal import, some represent the worship paid by the living to the dead, while in others the scene commemorates some incident in the life of the deceased, such as the memory would love to dwell on. Hence in some of these designs the figures and symbols recall to us the associations of active life or of festive and joyous occasions, the idea of death being kept out of sight. In the same manner we find on the sarcophagi of the Roman period scenes representing the marriage of the deceased pair, or the military exploits of the husl^aud. Sometimes the sepulchral monument, instead of being fashioned as a stele, takes the form of a lehjthos, which vases were, as is well known, con- stantly deposited in and about the tombs at Athens. On the marble Jelcytlii, the subject is usually a group or figure in very low relief, treated in the same simple manner as has been already noticed in the sculptures of the stele. Sometimes the vase itself, instead of being sculp- 24 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES tured in the round, is itself represented in relief on the surface of a stele. The handles of the vases are sometimes rich in ornament, as if the design had been copied from a work in bronze. Among these vases I noticed one, remarkable for its great size, the beauty of the design, and the fact that it had been painted. The scene represented on it is in very low relief. On one side is a youthful figure on horseback, very similar in type and attitude to many on the fi-ieze of the Parthenon. Behind him are two females, one seated, the other leaning in an aflFectionate attitude on her companion's shoulder, pointing with her right hand to a group of two youthful warriors in front. This pair are joining hands, as if taking leave of each other. This design is very slightly and sketcliily treated, but exceedingly graceful as a composition. The figures are loosely and fi-eely drawn : the style, if we make due allowance for the essential difierence between painting and sculpture, presents many analogies with that of the finest Athenian vase- pictures. The female figures are evidently meant to be in a more distant plane than the rest. The relief, therefore, of these figures sinks below the plane, instead of rising oiit of it, approximating to intaglio rilevato. To atone for the want of projection of the outline of the body, a channel is made all round them to strengthen their effect. The left hand of the seated female figure rests on the rail of a seat which is very slightly indicated. In front of this rail projects part of the hind-quarter of a horse, the tail IX THE LEVANT. 25 dying away into the ground of the rcHef rather aljruptly. It was probably finished with colour, and the rail must have been also coloured, as it is at present hardly distinguishable. So with the shield of the warrior on the left. This is represented in a side-Aaew, the outline not being completed on the side most distant from the eye. The third class of sepulchral rehefs in the Theseium are small slabs, the subject of which is generally the well-known funeral feast, or leave-taking. Of these there are but few in the Theseium, and they seem of a later period than the rest. One of these reliefs probably commemorates some Athenian matron who had died in childbirth. The principal figure is seated in a chair, and holds a 2-)yxis on her knees ; her attitude is that of a person fainting fi^om exhaustion. Before her stands a veiled female figure, perhaps the goddess Eileithya, who advances her right hand, as if in token of sjnnpathy. Between these two, and in the back-ground, is a third female figure, holding in her arms a new-born babe, wrapped up in linen, on which the seated figure places her hand. These sepulchral reliefs have a peculiar interest for us, because in the scenes which they represent, and in the sorrow which they so tenderly commemorate, we have a genuine expression of the feelings of the individual, which in Athenian art and literature are seldom permitted to have free utterance. Though their appreciation of domestic life was probably in- ferior to our own, it is not to be sujiposed that the Athenians were incapable of the affections and emotions natural to the human heart, because in 26 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES the outward expression of these feelings they appear to us so reserved. It must be rememljered that Athenian art and hterature were essentially forensic, addressed to the whole body of male citizens, gathered together in the temple, the theatre, the Agora, the tribunals, or the Palcestra ; while our art and litera- ture, though addressed, in the first instance, to the public at large, finds its way into the homes and hearts of men in a way imknown in ancient life, and so appeals rather to the feelings of the individual as the member of a household, than to those which belong to him as a citizen. It is in the tombs of the ancients, where so many objects consecrated by domestic affection are still stored, that we may best acquaint ourselves with traits of their private life. With reference to the age when these sepulchral bas-reliefs were produced, I am inclined to think that the finest of them belong to the period when Athens was still an independent state, though M. Gerhard thinks that the practice of placing sculptured stelce on graves did not become general till the time of the Roman empire. In the library of the University I examined an interesting collection of silver coins of Alexander the Great, which had been recently discovered near Patras.*" The greater part of these coins seem to have been struck at Sicyon : they were aU tetra- draclims, and quite fresh, as if just issued from the mint : with them were found two tetradrachms of Philip Arrhidasus, one of Seleucus, and twelve Athenian tetradrachms; two tetradrachms of ^tolia ; IX THE LEVANT. 27 two silver tetradrachms of Sicyon ; and also, it is said, some gold coins of Alexander the Great ; but these last were not secured by the Government. The Athenian tetradrachms in this hoard were of that well-known class which may be called Pseudo- Archaic, having been evidently imitated from the original thick coins of Athens, so celebrated in ancient commerce for the purity of their standard. This original currency was probably as much esteemed in the ancient Mediterranean as the Spanish dollar has been in more recent times, and the imitation of the archaic ty]3e and fabric may have arisen from an unwillingness to disturb the old commercial associations connected with these coins. The twelve Athenian tetradrachms found in this hoard were nnich w*orn ; on the other hand, the coins of Alexander were fresh as when they left the die. It is evident, therefore, tliat the Athenian money had been some time in circulation. Again, from the finding of coins of Seleucus Nicator, of Philip Ar- rhidgeus, and of ^tolia, in the same company, it may be inferred that the time of the deposit of this treasure was some time in the third century B.C., and that the Pseudo-Archaic Athenian tetradrachms were circulating down to this late period. They were succeeded, as is well known, by a broad tetra- drachm, slightly dished, which is evidently an imita- tion of the coinage of Alexander and his successors. This hoard was discovered by a peasant at Patras, in a vase. The coins are, I regret to say, still kept iai bags, like the tribute of a Turkish Pasha. In the hands of a jeweller at Athens I saw a 28 TRAVELS AND rUSCOVEUIES very fine silver decadraclim of Athens. This is a coin of extreme rarity. I never saw but two ; that in the British Museum, from Mr. Burgon's collec- tion, and one belonging to the Due de Luynes. The one I examined at Athens had the appearance of being perfectly genuine. It is to be regretted that the Greek Government does not build a museum capable of containing not only sculptures, but those more portable antiquities, such as vases, which are now dispersed, by being sold to strangers, all note of their discovery being carefully suppressed in the course of this contraband trade. It is equally to be regretted that excavations are not carried on at Athens more vigorously. The Government seems to want either the power or the will to direct such researches ; while, at the same time, it is unwilling that they should be undertaken by private enterprise. Still there exists at Athens, at present, as much interest in archseological studies as could perhaps be expected, considering that Greek civilization itself is of so recent a date ; and this interest has been very much sustained by the residence of so accomplished a scholar as our present Minister at Athens, Sir T. "Wyse. The Ai'chiBological Society here, of which Messrs. Finlay and Hill, among the English, and MM. Rhangabe and Pittakys, among the Greeks, are members, has also done much useful work, by the publication of new discoveries in the Ephemeris Archceologil-e, a monthly periodical, written in modern Greek. IN THE LEVANT. 29 In the course of my stay, hearing that at Mavrod- hihssi, near Kalamo, there were some Greek insei'ip- tions which would repay examination, I visited this place, accompanied by Colnaghi. It is situated on the sea-coast very near Oropo, the ancient Oroj^os, a town on the Boeotian frontier, which was some- times held by the Athenians, and sometimes by the Boeotians. Mavrodhilissi itself is a deep ravine near the sea-shore, situated between the villages of Markopulo, on the N.W., and Kalamo on the S. With the assistance of a guide from the neigh- bouring village of Kalamo, we had no difficulty in discovering the spot. It is a picturesque and secluded glen, through which a brook flows to the sea. On tlie left bank of this stream I found ancient foundations, evidently those of a temenos or sacred precinct ; within this enclosure were a number of large cubical blocks of marble, strewn about as if recently thrown down from some wall or edifice. On inquiry, I found that these had been till lately built up and united by leaden clamps, but that the masonry had been broken up to build a new church at Kalamo. On examining the blocks, I found a nvmiber of in- teresting inscriptions containing decrees of proxenia granted by the city of Oropos to various persons. The magistrates whose names were set forth in the preambles to these decrees were the Archon of the Boeotian Congress of Confederate cities, the Priest of Amphiaraos, and the Archon of Oropos. I also found a list of Victors in the Amphiaraia, an Agonistic festival, which, as we are informed 30 TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES by ancient writers, was celebrated at Oropos. This inscription tells us that prizes were given in this festival for Epic, Dramatic, Lyrical, and Musical contests, also for a variety of atliletic exercises and chariot-races. It should be observed that the introduction of the regular drama into festivals of this kind was an innovation which prol:)ably took place in the time of Alexander the Great, and such embellishments were j;hought by the ancient critics to have impaired the simj)licity of the public festivals. The date of the inscriptions probably ranged fi'om Olymp. IIG to Olymp. 145. There can be no doubt, from the evidence of the inscriptions, that the tcmenos at Mavrodhi- lissi was that of Amphiaraos, which is noticed by Pausanias. The cubes on which the inscrip- tions were placed must have originally formed part of the walls of this cella. It may be seen by the well-known example of the Parthenon that the Greeks were in the habit of covering the inner walls of their temples with inscriptions. The Amphiara'ion, or Temple of Amphiaraos, of which I thus discovered the site, was of consider- able celebrity in antiquity as an oracle which sick persons consulted for the treatment of their maladies. Here, as elsewhere in the temples of deities to whom the gift of healing was attributed, the mode of consultation was by the process called syxol^T,(rtg or incubation. The consultant, after undergoing lus- tration in honour of Amphiaraos and the other deities associated with him, sacrificed a ram, and, IN THE LEVANT. 31 lying down on its skin, awaited the revelations made to liim in tlie dreams. The cure, however, of the patient did not wholly depend on these miraculous communications, for there were medical baths in the tcmenos, which was agree- ably situated in the midst of fountains and brooks. In the British Museum is an inscription from the Amphiarai'on which was brought from Kalamo some years ago. It contains a decree ordering that some of the silver vessels belonging to the Amphiara'ion be repaired, and other vessels made by melting doAvn old votive offerings, consisting of plate and coined money. A curious inventory of the ol:)jects melted down is annexed to the decree. Among those metallic offerings are enumerated hands, breasts, and other parts of the human body, dedicated by those wdio had been cured of diseases by means of the oracle ; just such offerings as may be seen executed in marble in the Sculpture-gallery of the British Museum. The inventory also mentions a number of tetra- drachms and other coins which appear to have been fastened to the anathemata. Pausanias mentions that near the temple was a spring called the Fountain of Amphiaraos, into which persons relieved from disease by consulting the oracle threw gold and silver coins by way of a thank-offering or fee to Amphiaraos. These pieces of money were doubtless collected by the priests and placed in the treasury of the temple as anathemata. Following the course of the brook, I found near 32 TRAVELS AXD DISCOVERIES the temenos a fountain, wliicli is probably the one mentioned by Pausanias. Close to this fountain is a statue in white marble lying across the bed of the stream. It represents a male figure draped to the feet in a tunic, over which is a mantle, which he is throwing over the left shoulder, with an action very usual in representations of Muses ; on the feet are sandals. The statue is fairly executed, and its surface is well ]5reserved ; but the head and both arms are gone. Under the base is a square socket, in which an iron clamp has been inserted to fasten the statue to its pedestal. Tliis may be the statue of Amphiaraos himself which Pausanias saw. The name of tliis hero is one very celebrated in the mythic history of Boeotia. He was distinguished both as a warrior and a soothsayer, and was one of the seven chiefs who fought against Thebes. On the defeat of this expedition, he fled, pursued by Periklymenos, and before his enemy could overtake liim, the earth opened and swallowed him up, together with his chai'iot ; after which he was worshipped with divine honours. Traditions differed as to the precise spot where he disappeared in the earth, and several places in Boeotia and Attica claimed this distinction. But of all these sites none was so celebrated as the Amphiarai'on near Oropos. The picturesque ravine iu which the temenos at Mavrodhilissi is situated, narrows as it approaches the sea, presenting the appearance of a chasm in the earth ; and these strongly-marked physical features probably influenced the ancients in their IN THE LEVANT. '66 choice of this spot for the site of tlie Temple of Am- phiaraos, suggesting the beUef that it was here that he disappeared, AvTolaiu ottXoiq vat T^T[iaopi(TT(i) oifppoj. The secluded character of this glen, and the beauty of the scenery, would present many attractions to the invalid ; and, doubtless, like the temples of vEsculapius and other healing divinities, this temenos must have served in antiquity as a kind of hospital and watering-place. The picturesque character of the spot and the abundance of fi'esh water probably led the ancients to associate with the worship of Amphiaraos in this site that of Pan and the Nymphs. It may be presumed that this temenos was once very rich in inscriptions, for many fragments have been used in the construction of houses at Kalamo and Mavrodhilissi. The peasants spoke of the speedy destruction of those still remaining as a probable event, and, there- fore, on my return to Athens, I made a report on the subject to Sir T. Wyse, and also to M. Rhangabe, in the hope that through their representations the Greek Government might be induced to take steps for the preservation of these interesting monuments. As it rained din-ing most of the time of our visit to Mavrodhilissi, I had great difficulty in copying the inscriptions, and found it impossil^le to explore the site properly. Excavation here would probably lead to interesting discoveries. In tlie 3rd century before the Clu'istian era, the i» 34 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES geographer Dicasarchus in liis account of Greece describes the Amphiara'ion as situated at a distance of a day's journey for an active walker from Athens. The fatigue of the journey, he says, was agreeably relieved by the number of inns and halting-places by the wayside.^^ In the second half of the 19th century the traveller on his way fi'om Athens to Mavi^odliilissi passes over a desolate and half-cultivated countiy, not always free from robbers, and at the end of his jom'ney he finds in the sinister and unmlling hos- pitahty of the Albanian peasant of Kalamo a sorry substitute for the inns of Dictearchus. We had just time, before leaving Athens, to pay a hurried visit to Mycenae, where I had the satisfac- tion of gazing on those famous lions which still guard the gateway of the city of the Atridte, and which Pausanias saw over this gateway seventeen centuries ago. AU that he tells us about them is the tradition, current in his time, that they, together with the walls of Mycena?, Avere the work of the same Cyclopes who made the walls of Tirjms for Proetus. Such a legend has, of course, no historical value, except as evidence that the ancients believed this gateway to be a work of the heroic ages, and one of the most ancient monuments in Greece, a belief in accordance not only with aU that we know of the history of Mycenfe, but also with the character of the Hons themselves as works of art. The heads of these animals, which in the time of Pausanias were probably still entire, are now want- ing, so that it is difficult to form an accurate judg- IN THE LEVANT. 35 ment as to the style of the sculpture. Enough, however, of the original sui'face remains to show that these two lions are the work of a school already awakened to the observation of anatomical structvn-e. In tlie modelling of the shoulders and fore legs more knowledge and skill is shown than at first sight appears ; the general proportions are well calculated to produce the effect of massive grandeur required for the decoration of such a gateway. It has indeed been olyected that the hind legs of the lions are inordinately thick ; but the artist, probably, fell into this exaggeration, not so much through ignorance of the natural proportions, as from the endeavour to produce an impression of colossal size in harmony with the Titanic scale of the masonry in which the lions are set as in a fi'ame. And in this endeavour I think that he has succeeded ; for in looking at these lions, the disproportionate thickness of the hind legs does not at all distm-b the eye or mar the grand impression of the whole composition. Dodwell thought that they had an Egyptian character, but to me they appeared more like the work of an Asiatic school ; and if we ascribe this gateway to the Pelopid dynasty, the traditional descent of this dynasty ft^om Tantalus may be taken quantum valcaf, as ground for the conjecture that the art of Mycena? may have been derived from Lydia. The two lions stand on their hind legs, resting their fore paws on plinths in front of them. This position is peculiar, and suggests at once the idea that they are accessories, or, to speak heraldically, supporters in reference to the object between them, D 2 36 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES which appears to be a kind of term diminishing towards its base. Such an arrangement of a pair of animals reminds us of several of the primitive types of Asiatic Deities, and especially of the figure called by Pausanias, the Persian Artemis. On the other hand, it is certain that the archaic type under which the Greeks represented their deities was that of a term or column, with or with- out a head. It is therefore probable that the object between the two lions is such a sacred symbol. It has been justly remarked, that the Uons' heads, now broken away, must have looked outward, not at each other, as there would not otherwise be room for them within the angular recess in which they stand. Such an attitude at once suggests the idea that they are placed over the gate as sentinels to keep watch and ward ; and it is through this motive that the an- cients constantly placed hons at the entrance to tombs. Hence it seems probable that the term placed be- tween these two lions is the symbol of some tutelary deity, the guardian either of the city gate or of the city itself. Mure and several of the Gei-man archaeolo- gists suppose this term to represent Apollo Agyieus, "the guardian of ways." Gottling suggests that it may be Hermes Pyledokos, or " the door-keeper." '" In illustration of this question it may be observed that over a gateway of the Carian city Mylassa may stiU be seen, sculptured on the keystone, the battle- axe, labrijs, which was the special symbol of Jupiter Labrandensis, the tutelary deity of the Carian race, and which was placed in the hand of his statue in the temple at Labranda. IN THE LEVANT. 37 Witli regard to the vexed question wliether the singular conical chamber at Mycenae is to be con- sidered as a treasury or a tomb, I think that the old traditional name " Treasury of Atreus," given to it by Pausanias, should be retained, if only for con- venience, though there is much to be said in favour of the theory that it is a tomb. Perhaps, as Dod- well suggests, this building may have been at once a tomb and a treasury. From the few fragments of the sculptured decorations of the doorway, which have been foimd on the spot, and which are now in the British Museum, it may be inferred that it was inlaid with marbles of several colours, and that the ornaments were like those on the earliest Greek fictile vases. The style of decoration seems more like that of the doorways of the tombs at Doganlu, in Phrygia, than anything we know of in Greek archi- tecture ; and this is an additional ground for con- necting the early art of Mycenaj with Asia Minor.'^ III. MvTiLENE, May 10, 1852. On our return from Mycente we proceeded by steamer to Constantinople. After passing the Dar- danelles we found ourselves in a chmate almost as wintry as we had left behind us in England, and though the month was April, the shores on each side were covered with snow. It was a miser- able sleety morning when we approached the Golden Horn, and I cannot say that the first aspect of 38 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES Constantinople corresponded with that gorgeous picture which the celebrated description in Anasta- sius presents to the imagination. But when, after landing on the muddy wharf at Tophanah, we began to plod our way through the steep and narrow streets which lead from Galata to Pera, we realized at every step all the annoyances which the accounts of former travellers had prepared us to expect in this detestable thoroughfare. Juvenal, in his third satire, describes in a few terse lines the miseries and perils encountered by an unhappy pedestrian in the streets of ancient Rome ; how he has to fight his way through the mud, forced for- ward by the throng behind, only to be driven back by the counter-stream, jostled and elbowed at every tiu-n by porters carrying great beams or barrels, while ever and anon the nailed boot of some rough soldier stamps on his toes ; the rich man, meanwhile, surveys fi'om his luxurious litter the struggling crowd, as the dense mass yields to the momentum of his sturdy bearers. This description, written more than seventeen centuries ago, will serve for the streets of Galata at the present day, if we substitute the arabah and the sedan chair for Juvenal's litter, and for the swaggering Roman soldier the cavass who clears the way for some Pasha, prancing through the mud on a gaily caparisoned steed. Immediately after our arrival I presented my cre- dentials to Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, who received me with a most cordial welcome, and entered into the project of my future researches with a lively interest, promising that whenever it should be neces- IN THE LEVANT. 39 sary to apply to the Porte for a Firman to enaljle me to make excavations, his influence should be exerted to the utmost in my behalf. Among the letters of introduction which I took out from England, was one to Dr. Mordtmann, the Charge d'Aflaires of the Hanseatic towns, and one of the few learned men at present resident at Con- stantinople. He is well acquainted with Turkish and Greek, and has devoted much time to the study of coins of the Sassanid dynasty, of which he has a large collection. He is at present engaged in pre- paring a work on the ancient monuments of Con- stantinople, for the illustration of which so little has been done since the time of Banduri. I rode with him i-ound the walls of the city, which seem much in the state in which they were dm'ing the Byzantine empire. Built into the masonry are many Greek inscriptions, which Dr. Mordtmann copies with gi-eat care. Mounting on a high tower, we had a fine bird's-eye view of Stamboul, and I was surprised to see how large a portion of the space enclosed within the ancient walls is devoted to gar- dens. During the earlier period of the Byzantine empire, the population was far more densely crowded than at present, as appears from a passage in the historian Zosimus,^* who flourished in the latter part of the 5th century. We learn from an edict of the Emperor Zeno, that about this time it was customary to build very lofty houses, with projecting loggie, or balconies, and terraces on the roofs ; while in the public porticos and squares the spaces between the columns were everywhere encroached upon by shops 40 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES and stalls. The effect of these must have been very unsightly, for it is enacted that in those parts of the city which lead from the Milliarium to the Cajjitol, any stalls placed in the colonnades must be faced with marble and must not exceed six feet in width and seven in height, so as to afford free access to the street in parts of the colonnades. ^^ This practice of placing stalls under public porticos in the ancient Byzan- tine cities may have suggested to the Turks the plan of their covered bazaars, and in this arrangement the uncivilized conqixeror seems certainly to have improved on his predecessors. We must not, however, take for granted, that because the city was so crowded during the earlier period of the Byzantine empire, the number of in- habitants was necessarily much larger than at present; for till the Latin conquest, much of the space of the ancient city was occupied by churches, monasteries, palaces, and other public buildings. Many of these edifices must have been destroyed long before the Turkish occupation, either by the barbarous Latin invaders, or by conflagrations, as may be inferred from the description of the city given by Bertrandon de la Broquiere, a Burgundian knight, who visited Constantinople in 1433, and who remarks that the open spaces within the walls equalled in extent the portion still covered with buildings.^" It is probable that the Turks in many cases built their wooden houses on the solid vaulted substructions which they must have found everywhere under the ruins ; and excavations in their gardens would probably bring to light many architectural remains. IN THE LEVANT. 41 After reading the pompons descriptions of ancient Constantinople in Byzantine writers, it is certainly- surprising to find so few extant monuments of its former magnificence. I was much interested in seeing the building which the laquais de place call the Palace of Belisarius, but which seems to be the palace which Byzantine writers call Hebdomon or Magnaura. This is one of the few extant specimens of Byzantine civil architecture. It is built of bricks of different colours, arranged so as to form rich bands of inlaid- work : in the interior are columns with highly orna- mented capitals. This edifice, called by the Turks Tekir Serai, is built on a rentrant angle of the city wall. Near it is a Byzantine church, now converted into a mosque, called Kachi'eie, which I believe few travellers visit." The entrance, as is usually the case in Byzantine churches, is through a varthex, or vestibule, on the west, in which are some faded fi'escoes. A side aisle on the south is richly decorated with mosaics both on the walls and cupolas above : these cupolas are divided into segments, each of which contains the figm'e of one of the Prophets. In the space between the cupolas are represented the miracles of the New Testament and other incidents fi'om sacred history. On the walls are colossal figures much defaced, and smaller compositions. The larger figures were detached against a gold background ; in the smaller compositions landscapes were represented in the distance, very like those in early Italian pictures. The figures have very long proportions, and are simply and grandly composed. The colouring is 42 TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES very rich and harmonious throughout, and the general effect solemn and majestic, as in the early mosaics of the church of St. Paolo fuori le Mura, and that of St. Cosmas and St. Damian, at Rome. The effect of the mosaics on the walls and vault- ing must have been greatly heightened by the decorations of the pavement, which is still in many places inlaid with coloured marbles. The body of the church, now used as the mosque, was probably still more richly ornamented ; but here the pious zeal of the Mussulman has long since effaced all traces of Christian art. Of St. Sophia I had but a confased impression, for we could only see the interior by joining a large misbellaneous party gathered together from several hotels by the laquais de place, who undertook to obtain the necessary firman at a charge of a napo- leon for each person, probably double what it really cost him. Taking our places in this drove of nose-led tourists, we gave ourselves up with a feeling of abject depen- dence, to be dragged through the muddy streets of Stamboul from mosque to mosque, compelled to listen to the lanmeaning jabbering of a Levantine cicerone, instead of being allowed to halt for a while and contemplate at leisure the mighty struc- ture which, even in its present desecration, the Eastern Christian still venerates as the noblest mo- nument of his faith, which in liis eyes is a visible symbol, not less of the fixture destiny, than of the past history of the Oriental Church. The day may come when the staring green and IN THE LEVANT. 43 gold texts from the Koi'an, fixed like hatchments on the pilasters ; the chandeliers suspended fi-om the dome as if to plumb its vast abyss ; the prayer- carpets strewn with the books of the Mollah, and the other outward signs and appurtenances of Mussul- man worship will be banished from St. Sophia ; when its internal perspective will no longer be disturbed by an arrangement which forces the eye of the reluctant Giaour to squint Mecca-ward; when its mosaics, now overlaid with whitewash, and faintly visible here and there like the text of a palimpsest, will shine forth in renewed glory, and in their original combination with the precioixs many-coloured columns and the exquisite lace-like carving of the cajjitals. But what modern Anthemius could restore the exterior of the building, what amount of polychrome decoration could make this huge, clumsy, naked mass of brickwork pleasant to the eye ? Admitting that the original design has been much mutilated and defoced, still I think the exterior of St. Sophia shows that Byzantine architecture depended for its external effect almost entii'ely on inlaid polychrome decora- tion, and very little on the harmony of chiaroscuro produced by the judicious opposition of plane and projecting surfaces. Within the precinct of the Seraglio, the govern- ment has recently made a small museum in the ancient church of St. Irene. Here a few frag^ments of sculptures and inscriptions are flung together without any attemjjt at arrangement. Among these I noticed the upper part of an Amazon, in high relief: she is represented as rushing forward and 44 TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES about to deal a blow witli her battle-axe. (Plate I.) To my surprise, I recognized this as a fragment from the frieze of the Mausoleum, twelve slabs of which were removed from the castle at Budrum by Lord Stratford de RedclifTe, in 1846, and are now in the British Museum. I could get no information as to how this fragment foimd its way into the Museum in Constantinople. The figure is, I think, finer than any on the slabs in the British Museum, and the sui'face less defaced than most of them. I also noticed here the head of a sei'pent in bronze, said to have been broken off from the cele- brated triple serpent of the Hippodrome. It is rather coarsely executed and deficient in style ; the eyes, of which only the sockets remain, have been inlaid in silver or precious stones. There is also a cui'ious plate, with silver figiu'es raised in relief, representing Diana seated, holding in her left hand her bow, and wearing a mantle ornamented with stars : horns rise straight from the top of her head. Below are two grotesque figures, holding, one, a lion, the other a tiger in a leash : both these figures have horns. On each side of Diana is a dog, and above her, on the right, a turkey, and on the left a parrot. This is of the late Roman period. The few fragments of sculpture which have been found in Constantinople itself of late years, seem to be all Byzantine, and of little interest as works of art, though they are curious for details of costume. A sepulchral relief of this class in white marble may be seen lying in the garden of the British Embassy, in digging the foundations of which it was discovered. I 11 FRAGMENT OF FRIEZE! OF MAUS OLEU M IN THE MUSEUM OF TNE SERAGLIO. C N S T A N Tl N PL F I die Qqc-c:!. IN THE LEVANT. 45 visited two interesting collections of Greek coins, — - that of Ishmael Pasha, and M. Michanowitz, the Aus- trian Cousul-General. Ishmael Pasha has no numis- matic knowledge, but has a very clear idea of the value of ancient coins as articles of commerce. He keeps his collection in great sacks, which are brought in by a dozen attendants. He rolls them out on the table in great heaps, jingles them in his hands as if tliey were so many piastres, and then begins cross-examining the Frank numismatist as to their genuineness and value ; their historical interest being utterly overlooked. His collection is rich in coins of Macedonia and Thrace. The position of a Pasha gives him of course great opportunities of collecting coins at a cheap rate. On my taking leave, he presented me with a small dagger, mounted in silver, accompanying the gift with an intimation that he hoped I would send him a coin or two from Mytilene. The collection of M. Michanowitz not being arranged in cabinets, I could only examine it in a cursory manner ; but the coins I saw interested me very much. During a long residence at Salonica, ]\I. Michanowitz collected almost exclusively the coins of Thrace and Macedon. His series from the two provinces was, therefore, a most rich and instruc- tive one. He has a most beautiful gold coin of Chalcis, in Macedon, identical in type with the silver coins of the same place. The time which had been allowed for my journey from England to Mytilene having drawn to a close, we proceeded to Smyrna, where we halted for a 46 TRAVELS AND DISCWVEKIES couple of days before going to IMytilene. We had brought k'tters of mtroduction to Her Majesty's Consul Mr. Brant, and also to Mr. Hanson, who both received us with that genial hospitality for which Smyrna has always been so justly celebrated. Here I saw the fine collection of coins belonging to M. Ivanoff, the Russian Consul-General, which is particularly rich in specimens from the western and southern coasts of Asia Minor. He also possesses a very fine head of a Satyr in red marble, found at Aidin, the ancient Tralles. From the expression of anguish in the features, I should imagine that this represents the Satyr Marsyas when about to imdergo liis terrible doom at the hand of Apollo. As Mytilene lies directly on the track of the French and Austrian mail packets which ply between Smyrna and Constantinople, it has the benefit of steam communication every two days, an advantage which few islands in the Archipelago enjoy. One of these steamers conveyed us accordingly to our new home, where we landed at eleven o'clock p.m. The night was very dark, and the twenty- three packages which formed our luggage were picked out by the aid of one very inefiicient lantern on deck, and pitched into a shore-boat, amid the vociferations of a swarm of Greek boatmen, mingled with an occasional deep sonorous growl from a Turkish custom-house ofiicer. We should have felt very forlorn at being thrown out on a strange shore like a shipwrecked plank, had it not been for the kindness of two Mytileniote gentlemen, Dr. Bargigli and M. Amira, who had come on board to IN THE LEVANT. 47 escort us on sliore. On landing, we were received luider the hospitable roof of my predecessor, JNIr. Werry, who had been promoted, on my appointment, to Benghazi, and who was anxiously waiting my arrival in order to be relieved from his old post. I got up very early the next morning to take a look at my new home, which the darkness had entirely hidden the night before. Before I had gone many yards I met a Greek funeral. On the bier was laid out a young girl about fourteen years old, the face exposed, the head encircled by a chaplet of fresh flowers, after the manner of the ancients. If I had been in the mood to care about omens, here was one such as in antiquity might have detained a traveller ready girt for a journey, or a ship with a fair wind. After breakfasting with our host, I arrayed my- self in a magnificent new uniform, too much jDadded for the climate of the Levant, and proceeded with Mr. Werry to pay visits of ceremony to the Pasha, the Vice-Consuls, my future colleagues, and other magnates of the place. The Pasha was a gentleman about fifty years of age, with an aristocratic aquihne nose, a restless wary eye, and a sinister mouth, weak, but cunning. He is excessively rich, and has an advantage which Turkish ofiicials can seldom boast of; he can trace his descent to a grandfather. His family name is Kulaksiz, or "the Earless;" some ancestor having, it is to be presumed, been deprived of those members by an angry Padischah. His fathei- was Pasha of Mytileue during the Greek revolution, and 48 TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES having large landed possessions in the island, and the exclusive monopoly of the oil-trade, took very good care that it should not be sacked like Scio. In those days the power of a Pasha in a Greek island was a despotism unchecked except by the occasional intervention of some greater despot like the Capudan Pasha. The life and property of the rich Rajahs were always in jeopardy, for the Pasha was only too happy to find a pretext for confiscation ; and as the Greeks were disaffected, and informers plentiful, such pretexts were never wanting. This arbitrary government has ceased since the Tanzimat, and the present Pasha reigns over his paternal dominions not, perhaps, according to strict constitutional forms, but with some check from public opinion and the fear of an appeal to Constan- tinople. He received me with that suave urbanity and those gracious platitudes with which official Turks know so well to adorn their discourse in a first interview ; but medio de fonte leponim Surgit amari aliquid. The Pasha's manner inspired me with a secret distrust ; there was something feline m his blandish- ments. I must reserve my first impressions of Mytilene for my next letter. 1 MAP OF , SIYTILENE (XESBOS) | RciUu'i'cl liom Adnui-allv Chart ^ F^F,,: ^"■% / sp r,. putijrS'j.ofe .."A> J" TOWN S HARBOURS MVril.K>'E bi^*'b^ ■t MAP OF MYTILENE 'LESBOS Reduced from Adinualtv Cliart :N" 1664 1665 1 M' Iv„, MRSuipj;/-'' ,\' !..;; I.,,, i' e;; '\^:>ic VI RIGRtoS - -'■"'~-^_ t Tireso BRISAPBOM. mi ■ i" M,.sot..l.. ^iJl! fitrn V.PRJ IN THE LEVANT. 49 lY. SIytilese, May 30, 1852. I HAVE now lieen here long enough to be able to give you some account of this place, and of my mode of life in my new home. ThouQfh the name of Lesbos is one so rich in historical associations, and though the island itself is so conspicuous an object to all who sail past it on their way to Smyrna or Constantinople, it has never been much explored, and the accounts given by the travellers who have visited it are exceedingly vague and meagre.^*^ I shall therefore be minute in my description. The to^^l of Mytilene, which the older travellers call Castro, but which has now resumed its original name, is situated on a peninsula on the E. side of the island (see the Map, Plate 2). This peninsula consists of a rocky promontory connected with the mainland by a low isthmus, on either side of A\-liich is a small harbour, one to the north, the other to the south. These ports were formerly connected by a canal, called by the ancients Euripus. The rocky promontory, now a peninsula, is therefore spoken of by Strabo and others as an island,^^ and fi'om the strength of its position was originally chosen as the site of the city itself, and afterwards became its Acropolis. As the population increased, and the situation became more secure, the town spread from the island to the shores of the two harbours. A E 60 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES mediaeval castle, once lielcl by the Genoese family Gateluz, noAv occupies the site of the Acropolis, and most of the lower ground which formed the site of the ancient town is covered with the houses of the Greek and Turkish inhabitants. The Turks live principally in one quarter, near the north harbour. On the land side the to^vu is nearly surrounded by lofty bills, which completely shut in the \'iew to the west. At the foot of these hills rims a low wall, which surroimds the town from harbour to harbour, and served for its defence during the Greek Kevo- lution. It was built by the father of the present Pasha at that time. The site of Mytilene resembles that of many other Hellenic cities."" At a very early period, as Thucy- dides tells us, the Greeks selected such sites for their cities, cutting off the isthmuses. The advantage of such positions was obvious. The headlands were strong and sometimes inaccessible positions ; the two ports connected by a canal enabled their vessels to put out to sea either with a north or south wud, and the narrow strip of rich land along the shore served for gardens for the supply of the city. Of the two harbours, that to the south was anciently used for triremes, and therefore closed with a chain : it could contain fifty vessels. The remains of two moles are still visible at its entrance ; two small lighthouses mark the width across which the chain must have been stretched. The dejith varies at present from three to one fathom ; but, as is constantly the case in Turkish ports, it has I IN THE LEVANT. 51 been mucli filled iip from the accumulation of ballast discliarged from ships. The northern harbour was protected from the sea by a more massive mole, portions of which yet re- main nearly in the centre of the port. It consists of two external walls composed of ashlar-v/ork, Avithin which is a core of rubble cemented with coarse inortar. This harbour is described as deep by Strabo, but it is now nearly filled up with rubble.'"^ We learn from Aristotle, that this harbour was called Maloeis. The Malea where the Athenians stationed their fleet and held a market in the siege of Mytilene, B.C. 428, must have been somewhere near this port on the north of the town.^'^ I could discover no trace of Hellenic Avails on the site of the ancient Acropolis, but the Genoese castle is probably built on its foundations, as it occupies the whole of the summit of the rocky peninsula. Within its precincts are numbers of houses inhabited by poor Turks who do not form part of the garrison. The protection afforded by its guns must have been for- merly of great value when visits of Greek pirates were more formidable. The family of Gateluz held it till the latter part of the 15th century, when it was taken by Mahomet II. This castle is still kept up as an imperial fortress by the Turks, and though a place of no strength, serves as a depot of arms and to overawe the town of Mytilene. It is not an in- teresting example of military architecture, and the cypresses planted about its naked white -washed walls give it a funereal look. At the foot of the Acropolis the fields are strewn with fragments of E 2 52 TRAVELS AXD DISCOVERIES sculpture and painted pottery. To the soutli of the castle is a platform where stand the Turkish prison and the kiosk of the Pasha. Between this platform and the castle is a hollow, on the sloping sides of which are found many fragments of Greek painted vases of all periods. An ancient cemetery may, therefore, have stood here. The part of the rocky peninsula nearest the castle has not been encroached upon by modern buildings, which would have interfered with the rans-e of the guns. On the strip of land to the south, lying between a small fort and the harljour, is a little group of houses, the residences of the different Vice- Consuls. This constitutes the Frank quarter. Though the natural features of the ground are so strongly marked, no traces remain of the ancient city, and the whole aspect of the site is so changed by modern occupation that it is difficult to imagine that here once stood one of the most beautiful cities of the Hellenic woi'ld, wliich Horace thought worthy to be named in the same stanza in which he celebrates Rhodes, Bphesus, and Corinth. From the few notices of Mytilene in ancient authors, we know that the canal called Euripus by the Greeks was crossed by bridges of white marble, and that here was a theatre the plan of which excited the admiration of Pompey, and which he wished to imitate at Rome."^ Vitruvius, admitting the magnificence of the architecture, points out how badly the plan of the city was arranged in reference to the prevailing wands. It was so exposed, he says, to the north, and south that the sirocco made the inhabitants ill, the north-west wind IN THE LEVANT. 53 gave them coughs, and the north, though a healthier wind, was so cold that no one could stand in the open streets."* The modern town of Mytilene is a straggling, dirty village, the houses, like those of Constantinople, constructed of wood, either entirely, or on a lower story of stone. This is a frail mode of structure, but is thought to be the safest in case of earth- quake. The timber is supplied from the opposite coast of Asia Minor. The roofs are of red tile, which gives the town a mean appearance. The street which forms the present Turkish Bazaar is supposed to mark the line of the ancient Euripus or canal between the two jjorts. The shops are of the poorest description ; the market for all provisions brought in from the country is held in the main street. A few open dizains supply the place of sewers, and the exhalation which an eastern sun extracts from them, if not poisonous enough to produce a constant epidemic, is at any rate very disagreeable to the European nose. All the traffic with the interior is carried on by mules, strings of which, laden with panniers or with skins full of oil, jostle the passenger at every turn in the street. It is hardly necessaiy to add that wheeled carriages are unknown. All goods, however heavy, are embarked or disemliarked on the backs of porters. It is difficult in walking- through these squalid, noisy, crowded streets, to feel inspired by the proper admonitus loci. Mytilene is indifferently supplied with water, though it has an aqueduct. Many of the public fountains have had their supply of water intercepted for the 54 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES use of private individuals. In tlie Turkish quarter, and alono- the shore of the southern harbour outside o the town, are large gardens, which are all irrigated from a well by means of a water-wheel turned all day by a donkey. The sight of the donkey going his home circuit, and the creaking sound of the wheel, combined with the pleasant shade of the trees, seem always to invite a siesta. The soil of these town gardens is rich, friable, and black with the cultivation of many centuries. I often explore them in quest of inscriptions, and, sometimes finding a door open, walk into the garden of some rich Tm-k, and find his apples of the Hesperides guarded Ijy a black eunuch, who warns me off" wath great indig- nation. The coimtry round Mytilene is still what Cicero described it nearly 2,000 years ago, pleasant and fertile. -° Beyond the town to the south, the land bends in, forming a bay, bounded by a lofty mountain-ridge. Between this ridge and the sea the coast slopes gra- dually to the foot of the mountain, and is covered with luxuriant verdure, in which the foliage of the olive predominates, blending its silvery masses most happily with the tender green of the pomegranate, the myrtle, the fig-tree, and the bay. These slopes are studded with country houses and villages, as high up the mountain as cidtivatiou is possible ; above, on the steep rocky sides, flourish the cistus and other mountain plants and shrubs, scattering their aroma through the pure and delicate atmosphere. In the deep ravines with which the face of the mountain is channeUed, the course of the winter IN THE LEVANT. 55 torrents is marked by a rich red fringe of oleanders, now in fidl bloom. A paved road winding along the course of the ravines, leads to a pass formed by a notch in the steep mountain-ridge. On ascending to this pass a most striking view presents itself: on one side is seen the town of Myti- lene, and the indented outline of the shore, for ever varied Avith headlands and bays, Avith a sea so calm and blue that tlie island looks as if it were inlaid in lapis lazuli ; on the other side is Port Olivieri, a vast natural harbour, shut in by wooded lulls all round, without a sail, and with hardly a breeze to disturb the even repose of its surface. It takes its name from the olives which stretch along its fertile shores and up the steep sides of the surrounding mountains far as the eye can reach, investing all the land in the silver mantle of its verdure, which would be monotonous were it not relieved by the contrast of the deep blue water below. Turning fi'om the scenery of Mytilene to its present inhabitants, I experienced a painful shock. Nothing can be less in harmony than Nature and man in this favoured island. A faint tradi- tion of European civilization is pi'eserved in the few Smyrniote families who have settled here for the sake of consular appointments or trade, and whose half-dozen houses form the Frank quarter ; but even in this society the interest in subjects such as we talk of in Europe is but small. The most congenial companion whom I have met with here is a Dr. Perotti, an old Piedmontese refugee, who, though a man of considerable acquirements, has 56 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES been content to dwell in obscurity for many years at Mytilene, amusing liimself witli collecting the coins and antiquities of the island. The fine series of silver coins of Lesbos now in the Bibhotheque at Paris was acquu-ed through Dr. Perotti. Among the Greeks are no very rich merchants, but a bourgeois class, most of whom are land pro- prietors, and trade in the oil produced by their olives. Not the least respectable among them, if report speak true, are several elderly gentlemen, who, in the troublous times of the Greek revolution, enriched themselves by the issue of forged money, or followed the profession of pirate — time-honoured in the Archipelago. This native aristocracy, now dominant in the city where Pittacus once ruled, have that sleek, contented air which we associate with the idea of Flemish burgomasters, to whom their picturesque dress still further assimilates them. They generally possess, besides their house in Mytilene, a country house, "with a pleasant garden where they smoke and doze life away in the summer heat. They ride on sturdy mules, and as they wind along the mountain tracks remind me of the fio'ures in the old pictures of the Fhght into Egypt. Their accoutrements are of the rudest kind — a great clumsy pack-saddle, over wliich is thrown a rug, rope stirrups, and a chain attached to a headstall, for the mules are too strong and obstinate for any ordinary bridle; The men generally sit sideways on these pack-saddles, and the women astride. The first time that a lady was seen in Mytilene on a European side-saddle, IN THE LEVANT. 57 all the people came to see what seemed to them so unfemininc a mode of riding. The women in the town of Mytilene are handsome, but very few of them have good teeth. Like the Greek women of old, they wear rouge, and till lately dyed their teeth with henna. They have well-cut features, but there is something mean in the whole chai'acter of the face, and I found more to remind me of the old classical type in the massive grandeur of features of the Roman contadina. The ladies of Lesbos are jealously guarded by their husbands. Since I have been here, I have seldom seen one in the streets. Occasionally they come out of their cage to take a walk of a summer's evening, when they gather together on the sea-shore, and strut about in Smyrna finery, redolent of musk, vain as peacocks, and even shi'iller in their cackling. It is to be feared the rigid incarceration of so many Danaes has an unfavourable eifect on do- mestic life. It is said that the ladies find means to avenge themselves on their tyrants, and that the morals of this beautiful little island have not im- proved since Sappho's time as much as could be desii'ed. The Turks in Mytilene are a decaying and de- creasing population. With the exception of the Pasha himself, who jjossesses very large landed pro- perty in the island, and his son, there are no very rich Turkish proprietors. They live, as usual, in the seclusion of their own quarter, and are not veiy friendly to Franks. No Jews have ever been able to exist at Mytilene. A sententious old Turk told us 58 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES that some years ago some unhappy Hebrews came here to settle as merchants. The first morning after their arrival they took a walk in the bazaar, where they saw the Mytileniotes weighing the eggs they bought, to see if they were worth the paras they gave for them. " This is no place for us," said the Jews, " these Greeks would be too knowing for us ; " and so away they went from Mytilene, where no Jew, said my old Turk, has ever attempted since to settle. The entii'e population of the town of Mytilene is reckoned at about 8,500, of whom from 200 to 300 are foreigners, protected by their several consulates. These are mostly Hellenic or Ionian subjects. The number of Mussulmans probably does not exceed 2,000. I have been employing my time lately in exploring the country in the immediate vicinity of Mytilene itself. The first place which I visited was the Roman aqueduct at Morea, a \'illage distant about an hour to the N.W. of Mytilene. The road to Morea, issu- ing from the north gate of Mytilene, passes through an Hellenic cemetery, where sarcophagi and tombs are occasionally found. The remains of the aqueduct at Morea extend across a small valley. It consists of three rows of arches, of which the uppermost is of brick. The lower part is built of squared massive blocks. It is beautifully proportioned, and, fi'om the style, may be ascribed to the Augustan period (Plate 3). On a stone in one of the pillars I noticed the letters D M 0, probably a mason's mark. Remains of this aqueduct are to be met with at St. Demetri, two hom's and a half from Ayasso, on the road to IV1YTILE(:JE_ ROMAN AQUEDUCl T/i»;i«« Pn"Ul-,„"L_-n T IN THE LEVANT. 59 Vasilika ; also at a place caUed Larissou Lamarousia, one lioui' distant from Morea. The village of Morea is one of tlie most flourish- ing in the neighbourhood of Mytilene, and has a large school-house. The richer Greeks of Mytilene have country houses here, in which they pass their villegiat'ura in the summer. These country houses still retain the ancient name of Pyrgi, or towers. They are usually tall square houses, with a ground- floor which is only used for housing cattle and farm- ing implements, and an upper story generally consist- ing of a single room. Above this again is sometimes a third story. The entrance to the upper part of the house is sometimes by means of a flight of stone steps outside, sometimes by a wooden ladder inside the ground-floor. Some of the older pyrgi along the coast of Mytilene are strongly built with squared blocks. This kind of dwelling-house must have been originally adopted for defence against sudden attacks of pirates."" The reception-room in the pyrgos of a rich Greek is a model of neatness and cleanliness. The floors are washed like the deck of a man-of-war, the napkins snow-white, with a little gold embroidery and a kind of lace at the edges ; the divan or sofa covered with white dimity. The lady of the house is always very smart : her duty is to wait on her guests ; but she never sits down or takes any part in the conversation ; that is her husband's business and privilege. I have had to make a great many visits lately in the course of my rambles, and am neai-ly choked with quinces, marmalade, sugar-plums, cups of coflee^ chibouks, narguillas, and various other 60 TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES offerings, which to accept is often painful to the guest, but to refuse is a certain affront to the host. Continuing along the shore in a N.W. direction, at the distance of two hours from Mytilene is Therma?, a place so called from the hot mineral baths which still exist there. Here is a small harbour marked in the Admiralty Chart as Ancient Mole. The \nllage of Thermae is at the distance of about half an hour inland. It is marked in the Chart by its Turkish name Sarelek, "yellow." This name is given from the colour of the water in the hot springs, which are feiTuginous. The baths are small vaulted buildings of a recent period. In the walls are a number of interesting inscriptions originally copied by Pococke, from which we learn that there was at Therms a Panegyris Thermiaca, and that Artemis was worshipped here vmder the title of Artemis Thermia J^luakoos, " the Propitious."'^ The con- nection between the woi'ship of Artemis and these ferruginous baths is very obvious, as the use of such tonic waters would be prescribed in connection with the bracing exercise of the chase. The senate and people mentioned in these inscriptions are, it is to be yjresumed, those of the town of Thermae. In the fields all round the baths, marbles used in build- ings are found in the soil, but I could not hear of the discovery of any sculpture or architectural ornaments. Pococke saw here great ruins of buildings, par- ticularly of a colonnade leading to the baths from the south, the pedestals of which remained in his time. Along the shore a little to the east of Thermte are the IN THE LFA'ANT. 61 remains of a sea-wall built of" rubble and concrete. The ashlar-work facing has been removed. About ten minutes' distance from Thermos on the road to Mytilene, and about the same distance from the sea, is a ruined church called St. Eustratios, with some ancient fragments. At the back of the apse is a carved stone with part of two lines of an inscription, in which the word AAMO occurs. Returning from Thermas I visited a small church called St. Nicolas, at a place called Torre di Firme. Here in the wall on the left side of the doorway is an inscription to the emperor Hadrian as Saviour and Founder of Mytilene. The church is surrounded by a wall with a doorway, on the right side of which is a gladiator in relief, holding his sword in an attitude of defence : above are the remains of an inscription. On the opposite side of the doorway is a bas-relief in similar style, representing a gladiator kneeling and awaiting the attack of an Indian bull, who is rushing at him : above has been an inscription. These reliefs are in a very late style. Between Thermae and Morea is Paphila, which is incorrectly written Baftah in the Admiralty Chart. Near this place is a small eminence called Karadipi, Avith a farm-house or chiflik. In excavations here were found recently fragments of two statues of Avhite marble. Of one, a male figure, the feet only remain. The other fragment consisted of the legs of a female draped figure. The style was not very good. At Paphila I saw a terminal jjillar surmounted by a much-mutilated bust, perhaps of some philosopher. 62 TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES On the side of tlie road near Karadipi is a cippus insci'ibed " The great Artemis of ThernifB." This seems to have been the base of a statue. It is lying by the side of the road, jiartially overgrown with shrubs. Returning to Mytilene by Morea, I noticed at the distance of about ten minutes from that village a place by the roadside called Achlea. Here is a warm spring with a bath vaulted over. On the opposite side of the road the face of the rock is scarped, and on it, in very large letters, now nearly effaced, may be read the words TWN rNAEU)N, tCov yvaCfiswv, — " of the fullers," — which is evidently part of a dedication by a company of ftiUers, who made use of the water of this warm spring."^ Imme- diately opposite to this inscription on the other side of the road, are the foundations of a small square building made with mortar, placed at the side of a pool of warm water. In the wall of a field between the road and the sea is a sepulchral stele with three figures in relief, probably representing a wife taking a last farewell of her husband and son. In a vineyard between this spot and the sea are two large blocks, which appear to be in situ. It is probable that a small temple dedicated to the nymph of the fountain stood here. To the S. of Mytilene the coast terminates in a promontory, called Zeitin, the ancient Malea. It was here that, immediately before the battle of Ar- ginusfe, the Spartan fleet of 120 vessels, commanded by Kallikratidas, dined on the same day that the Athenian fleet dined on the island of Arginusas IN THE LEVANT. 63 opposite them.'" This place must not be confounded with the Malea to the north of the town, where, as has been ah-eady stated, the Athenian fleet were sta- tioned in their attack on Mytilene. It is uncertain where the temple of Apollo Maloeis was situated ; Ave only know of it that it was outside the city. The fertile shore lying between Cape Malea and Mytilene would afford many places suitable for the holding of a Panegyris such as Thucydides describes^" to have been held at this temple. On the other hand, if the North Harbour was called Maloeis, it seems probable that the temple was somewhere in its vicinity. I could discover at Cape Malea no traces of ancient remains except the capital of a richly-sculptured Ionic column in a little chapel called Panagia Mali, a little to the "W. of the Cape. Near this chapel is an ancient cistern used as a well. On the shore between Mytilene and Malea is the village of Pligoni, where are columns and some small remains of ancient foundations. Mytilene, Jmie 20, 1852. Shortly after my arrival, I had a \Tisit from one of the greatest personages in Mytilene — the Greek archbishop of that ilk. The island is divided into two archbishoprics — Mytilene and Molivo (Me- thymna). The archbishop of Mytilene, at this moment, happens to be a very good specimen of the Greek hierarchy. He has a long flowing beard, G-i TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES such as Rembrandt would have studied in painting a Jewish rabbi. His manners are dignified and com-teous. He brought with him to my house several attendant priests : one of them was his painter, or ^wyori(^os, whose vocation it is to paint pictures of the Virgin (called by the Greeks Panagia) and of the Saints. This gentleman was not quite so courteous as his chief. Seeing a few scraps of marble lying about my room, " Are you come," said he, in an angry tone, " like another Curzon, to rob us of our antiquities ?" He had read a Greek translation of Mr. Curzon's book on the Eastern Monasteries, and the idea seemed to possess his mind that every Englishman who came to the East was a Curzon in disguise. The Archbishop, perhaps from policy, gave no sign of such hostile sentiments. Among the Greeks an archbishop still retains the old Byzantine title Asa-Trorr^s, or the "Master;" and shortly after my visit, a case came before me offi- cially, wliich showed me how great is the influence exercised by the Greek hierarchy over their flocks. An Ionian, who had been beaten and maltreated by some of the inhabitants of his village, sued them before the Mejlis, but could not get any of the Mytileniotes to come forward as witnesses ; lonians being here regarded almost as foreign settlers. He applied to me as his consul for redress, and at his sug- gestion I represented the case to my new friend the Ai'chbishop, making an appeal to his sense of justice. He at once promised to excommimicate the whole vil- lage, if the required evidence was not forthcoming, and IN THE LEVANT. 65 sent me an a^o f,iiTTixov, oi' mandate, full of the heartiest imprecations I ever read, which operated briskly, producing two live witnesses in the course of twelve hours. How like the manners of the Middle Ages. A Greek would rather commit any kind of atrocity than incur the terrors of excommu- nication. His conscience is made of the same stuff as that of a 12th century baron or a modern Italian brigand. The other day, the Archbishop officiated at the baptism of Mr. Werry's child, according to the Greek rite. The ceremony, which took place in my predecessor's house, was very long, and some of the audience evidently thought it very tedious. The Archbishop was attired in roljes, of which the gorgeous fashion has evidently been preserved vm- changed from the Middle Ages, and of which the embroidery, stiff with gold, seemed like a reflection from the bygone splendour of the old Byzantine empire. He had six attendant priests, mth pictu- resque long beards. Everybody present held in their hand an attenuated wax taper, four feet long, and lighted, though the ceremony took place in the day. The child, after a great number of prayers had been read, was stripped, anointed with oil, and totally immersed in water, to its great discomposure and the amusement of the spectators, who consisted of all the c.07ys vice-consiilaire of Mytilene, male and female, and who talked and laughed irreverently the whole time. The font was made of very common- looking tin. After the immersion, the havibino was marked all over with a metallic instrument intended P 66 TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES to represent a seal ; then dressed, and placed in the arms of the godfather, who, for fear of accidents, held the child in a scarf suspended round his neck. Then the godfather marched all round the font with him several times, the Archbishop all the time exorcising the evil spirits that might be supposed to harbour designs against the unconscious httle squaller. This perambulation round the font re- minded me of the old pagan ceremony called AmpJddromia, in which, seven days after bu-th, a child was carried in its cradle swiftly round a blazing altar by torchlight. The resemblance between the two ceremonies may, however, only be accidental. On returning the Ai-chbishop's visit I saw, in the courtyard of his house, the celebrated marble chair which is engraved in Pococke's Travels.^^ It is very richly sculptured. The back is curved. Two seated gryphons with outspread wings form the arms of the chair. The seat rests on four Uons' legs ; on each side below the gryphons is a tripod round which a serpent is coUed. In the front of the chair, under the seat, is the inscription, — nOTAMnNOZ rn AEZBUNAKTOZ nPOEAPIA " The place of lionoui- of Potamon, son of Lesbonax." Below is a footstool, ornamented in front with an arabesque, representing a Triton with two tails. This marble chair is probably from an ancient theatre, where Potamon must have sat in the front row, among the civil and i-eligious dignitaries of IN THK LEVANT. 67 Mytilene, each of whom probably had his appointed place marked by an inscription on his seat.^* Les- bonax, the father of Potamon, was a sophist and rheto- rician, who lived in the time of Augustus, and whose head the Mytilena?ans put on their copper coins, with the inscription, " Lesbouax, the new hero." His son Potamon was, like his father, a sophist, and resided at Rome, where he gained the favour of the Emperor Tiberius, who, on the return of Potamon to his native coimtry, is said to have fm-nished him with a passport in this form : — " If any one dare to injure Potamon, the son of Lesbonax, let him consider whether he will be strong enough to wage war with Me."^^ Soon after seeing this chair I happened to be passing by an unfinished house just as the workmen had fixed a marble in the side of a window. Seeing that it had a Greek inscription, I stopped to examine it, and found that it was a dedication in honour of the same Potamon whose chair I had seen at the Arch- bishop's house. I ascertained fi'om my dragoman that the house belonged to an Ionian, who was so obliging as to present the marble to me for the British Museum, on my providing him with another in its place. Shortly after this I discovered another inscrip- tion in which the name of Potamon is associated with that of two other benefactors of Mytilene — Pompey and Theophanes. The dedication to Pompey comes first ; he is styled benefactor, saviour, and founder of MytUene ; the name of Theophanes follows, who is called saviour, F 2 68 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES benefactor, and second founder ; and the tliird name is that of Potamon, followed by tlie same titles as those bestowed on Pompey. Theophanes was the intimate friend of Pompey, and wi'ote a history of his expedi- tions ; and it was through his influence that the great Eoman was induced to restore their Uberties to the MytHenseans. In gratitude for these services they put his head on their copper coins with the inscription, "The Divine Theophanes." The taste for hero- worship imder the Roman empire "was not peculiar to the Mytilenajans. Rome was full of Greeks like Potamon and Theophanes, who made it their busi- ness to cultivate the friendship of the reigning emperor and so to advance their own interests and those of their native country. Such men in the dedications made to them by a gTatefid country are styled [J.ou xfiaTssiv Hsf>ia.voaog orav ju.«r[£]i'(r£^' (piT^Tj (TOit. The saying SujaoLi x^arsiv, here ascribed to Periander, is elsewhere given to Cheilon."^ With this collection of spoons was found a neck- lace composed of portions of gold chain, alternating 12-i TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES Avith rows of pearls and otlier precious stones, linked together with hooks and eyes, which is also in the possession of M. Sitrides. He also showed me a brooch found in a tomb, formed of two hollow cylinders of gold, plaited into a loop, terminating at either end in two hons' heads. In the centre of the loop is a mask of Medusa, in a lozenge-shaped set- ting : this appears to be Greek. In the town I found an inscription, partly in Epic, and partly m Iambic verse, on the driun of a column set upright in the gTound at the door of a mosque." The Tiu-ks had carefidly placed the colmnn upside" down. Piloted by the dragoman of the consular agent, I attempted to alter its position ; but the first stroke of the pickaxe into the ground brought forth a fanatic in a green tui'ban, avIio stamped and raged at us with all manner of male- dictions ; so I was forced to copy the inscription with my head between my knees, reading every letter upside down. I remained in this uncomfort- able position for three days, during the greater part of which tune I was siurouuded by a dirty rabble, who were only kept in check by the presence of a cavass from the Pasha. It is said that, some years ago, a statue was found here representing the ancient city, Kallipohs, with an inscription to that effect, and that the Turks have walled it up in one of their fountains as the people in the Middle Ages used to wall up naughty nuns. The weather was too inclement for exciu'sions in the Chersonese, as I had intended, so we went on to the Dardanelles, where we were hospitably IN THE LEVANT. 125 received by Mr. James Calvert, the acting Consul, and his brother Frank. We took lip our (juarters in their country-house at Renkoi, a village distant about three hours south of the Dardanelles, and very near the sea-coast. This house was built by Mr. Lander, the uncle of the present Consul. Here I found a few stray relics of European civihzation ; such as a grim picture of Sir Thomas Maitland, flanked by two family portraits of beauties of George III.'s time, a pianoforte, a bagatelle-table, some of the new books published last year in England, and various other little luxuries unlcnown to Mytilene. The Calverts carry on a considerable trade in val- lonia. The vallonia oak ((2uerc>is 7Egilop><) covers a very large district in the Troad, and is cultivated for the sake of the cup of the acorn, which is much used in preparing and dyeing leather in England. The acorns themselves are given to the pigs ; but there are such quantities that they are even burnt as fuel. The Calverts have two farms, or chifliks, Avhere they have introduced two or three English ploughs. The wooden implement of the Turkish peasant has been scratching the back of Asia Minor for many cen- turies, without ever disturbing the rich subsoil. The Troad has been a most nes;lected and "wild res-ion for ages ; but the Greeks are beginning now to cultivate it. They are gaining ground, as they do in most places along the coasts of Asia Minor, and the Turks are gradually giving way before them, abandoning their estates for want of energy and of means to cul- tivate them. 126 TEAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES The country between the Dardanelles and Troy is covered with brushwood, without a village, and scarcely any cultivated land. Nothing breaks the monotony of the horizon but the vast tumuh which appear at intervals against the sky, marking the grave of some Homeric hero. In travelling through this country, we saw but few human beings. In- stead of the paved roads of Mytilene thronged with fat and greasy citizens riding home on their mules, and with all manner of traffic between the populous villages, the roads in the plain of Troy have long strings of camels on then' Avay to some far country, and an occasional hoi'seman armed to the teeth. These are all the traces of luunanity visible, except the Sclavonian herdsman, who, with pistols in his belt and accompanied by dogs more savage than hunself, tends his vast flocks of sheep and goats; for now, as in the time of Horace, — Pi-iauii Paridisque busto lusultat avmeutum. We made an expedition to the site of Troy, near which we passed the night • in a cluflik, or farm- house, of the Calverts. Thence, we rode to Boimar- bashi, and examined the rocky hill encircled by the Mendere, wliicli Chevalier claims as the site of Troy. If this hill has ever been an acropolis, we might expect to find those fragments of very early pottery which, as was first remarked by the late Mr. Burgon, are so abimdant on the Homeric sites of Mycenaj and Tu-yns.^'* Of such pottery I saw not a vestige in the soil, nor could I dis- IN THE LEVANT. 127 cover anywhere on the sui'face of the rock those level beds cut to receive the foundations of the walls, which may be generally traced out on the sites of the early Greek citadels, and the marks of which are as imperishable as the rock in which they are cut." After lea\ang Bournabashi, we went south to Chi- menlai, a small village marked in the Admiralty chart No. 1608, where we were most kmdiy and hospitably entertained by a Turkish lady whose husband sells vallonia to the Calverts. It Avas the first time I had ever lodged in a Tm'kish house. Everything Avas excessively clean and comfortable. We were waited upon by a gentleman in the black livery which nature gave him. Turkish servants, more especially negroes, are good waiters, from the ease and uoiselessness of their movements. Notwithstanding the superior wealth of Europeans in the Levant, they are not so well served as the Tm'ks, because no one but a Greek or Latin Clu'istian will condescend to be their menial. In the mornmg, the lady of the house, who had been invisible till the moment of our jjarting, appeared at the window, and throwing back her veil, expressed her great regret that we coidd not stay another day. Such a want of reserve is very unusual and utterly forbidden l)y the general laws of Turkish etiquette ; but the lady . was neither yoimg nor pretty, and the Calverts are friends of the family, and buy theii- vallonia ; and so we were treated as enfants de la luaison. The mosque in this vUlage is built of large squared blocks, evidently from some ancient building. At 128 TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES this mosque was a Latin inscription containing a dedication to the Emperor Claudius, as a " Sodalis Augustalis." On the lintel of a window was the fi-ag- ment of another Latin inscription, containing part of the name and titles of Nero."** In fi-ont of the mosque was the capital of a large Doric column and a plain marble chau-. We rode on, the next morning, to a village called Koushibashi in the mountains, half an hour south of Cliimenlai and about three hours east of Alexandria Troas. Near this are seven immense granite columns, lying just as they were left rough-hewn m the quarry, from which they have been cut as neatly as if their material was cheese or soap. They vary from 37 to 38 feet in length, and are about 5 feet 6 inches in their greatest diameter. They appear to be Roman, and to have been left rough-hewn to be conveyed to some distant temple, and then polished. This ac- counts for their not being all exactly the same length. The quarry fi'om Avhich they were taken lies to the north-east of the row. The marks of the chisel remain on the vertical face of the granite in parallel horizontal grooves. On the road fi-om this quarry to Alexandi'ia Troas is another of these colimms, abandoned on its way to the sea. There is something very grand in the aspect of these seven sleepers lying so silently on the granite bed out of which they were hewn. To the south of Koushibashi, om- road began to ascend through a rocky and barren district, till we reached Chigri, a most ciu-ious acropolis crowning a mountain, which, according to the Admu^alty chart, IN THE LEVANT. 129 is 1,648 feet above the sea. It is about two hours south of the village of Koushibashi, and is laid down in the Admu^alty chart, but has, I think, been very little noticed by travellers. The walls, built of blocks of granite in polygonal courses, are nearly perfect all round. The fortress is of a rhomboidal form, and may be compared to a kite. Its greatest length is fi'om S.E. to N.W. It took us twenty minutes to walk right through it lengthways, so that it is more than a mile lono-. It has a number of gates flanked by towers. On the N.E. side is a gateway which seems to have been rather more accessible than the others, and to which an ancient causeway still leads. This gateway is 16 feet wide. The doorway stands back about 7 feet 7 inches behind the gateway. The jambs of this doorway are still in position. The width between them is 9 feet. One of them has a deep horizontal groove for the bolt. This gateway is flanked on one side by a tower, on the other by an abutment. Within the walls are traces of founda- tions of many houses. A spring still flows mtliin the ruins, and there is an old well filled up. The extent and the preservation of the defences make this fortress a most interesting example of early military architectm-e, the work probably of Hellenic settlers. The walls terminate in natm-al precipices at either end, and great judgment has been shown in taking advantage of every natm-al barrier to add to the strength of the fortifications. Thus the precipices at either end are surmounted by vast masses of rock which rise far above the walls, and 130 TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES must liave served the purpose of watch-towers for the gan'ison. Leake and other travellers have supposed Chigi'i to be the Cenchrete of Stephanus Byzantius. The mountains round this place have rather a bad reputation for robbers ; and it was here that Captain Sprattj R.N., wliile engaged with a brother officer in making the Hydrographical Sm^vey, was sm^prised by three armed ruffians, fi'om whom, by great pre- sence of mind, however, he succeeded in escaping. From Chigri we went to Alexandiia Troas, passing by a place called Lisgyar, where are hot springs. Here are ruins of some baths built of grouted masonry, and probably of the late Roman period. A small bronze mouse, now in the collection of Mr. Frank Calvert, was foimd here. From the nearness of this spot to the Sminthiimi, the seat of the worship of Apollo Sminthius, there can hardly be a doubt that this mouse was dedicated to that deity, who on a coin of Alexandria Troas is represented holding a mouse in his hand. This place is marked on the Admiralty chart, No. 1608, "Hot Springs," but without a name. Pococke notices the spot, and says that the baths are sidphm'ic. Here he saw a colossal draped female figm-e in white marble, the head broken off.^* On our arrival at Alexandria Troas, the weather was so bad that we did not dismoimt, and could only take a passing glance at the stately Roman remains. I coidd hear of no inscriptions or sculpture here. The principal ruin is a large edifice with many arches, in a very noble style. It is built of large m THE LEVANT. 131 blocks of isodomoiis masonry. Chandler considers this a Gymnasium. The marble has been carried away from this site by travellers, or by peasants from the neighbouring villages, and notliing is left but the solid Eoman masonry, the shell of the buildings. Near it we saw a subterraneous vaulted passage, which, from its curved form, must have passed under the seats of an amphitheatre. Towards the sea the shore is strewn with the ruins of houses for about a mile. We passed northward through the ruins in the direction of Gaikli ; and on getting beyond the pre- cincts of the walls, came upon many sarcophagi which must have been placed on each side of the ancient road. On our way home from Alexandria Troas, we halted at Kahfatli, near the Mendere. Here has been recently discovered a coarse tesselated pave- ment, with the usual common patterns. As we passed, we found the Greek villagers cutting it up into squares to pave their church with, as if it had been so much oilcloth. For several acres round this spot the ground is strewn with fragments of marble and of coarse Roman pottery. East of the pave- ment are traces of walls with foundations of grouted rubble. One of these walls runs for a length of 60 paces, with another at right angles to it, 50 feet in length. Three or four large squared blocks were lying on the surface of the ground, near these walls. North of the pavement is a small mound, the top of which K 2 132 TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES forms a level area ; its north side is a steep bank running down to the plain below. Here fi-agments of black Hellenic pottery are found. From Kalifatli we proceeded to the site of Ilium Novum, where the remains visible above ground arc very trifling ; though the irregidarities of the ground led me to suppose that extensive ruins were hidden under the soil. Thence we returned to Kenkoi by Hahl Eli, where I copied some inscriptions. After our return to Renkoi, I visited a place about half a mile to the N.N.E. of that village, and thought by Mr. Calvert to be the site of the ancient Ophr)Tiium. This site, now called It Ghelmez, may be described as a platform boimded by deep ravines, which surroimd it on the land side, except on the east, where a narrow isthmus connects it with higher ground above. On the S.W. side of the jjlatform, Mr. Calvert found a quantity of pipes of thick red pottery in the steep bank of the ravine. They appear to have been anciently laid down as a watercourse. Upon the sm-face of the platform are foundations of walls, pieces of marble, and fi'agments of pottery. Two copper coins of Neandria and one of Ilium have been found here. To the S.E. of this platform the ground on the other side of the ravine rises in a series of terraces partially covered with pine. Above these terraces is a sloping platform, on the surface of which are many fragments of Hellenic pottery. On this upper platform the foundation of a wall may be traced 107 feet from N.W. to S.E., when it makes a turn, and ruus 14G feet in an E.S.E. direction. IN THE LEVANT. 133 This is biiilt of a casing of travertine blocks, filled in with rubble. Here have been found, at different periods, foiu'teen coins of Ophrynium, two of Sigeum, three of Ilium Novum, and a fine silver coin of Megiste (Castel Rosso), a small island near Rhodes. It is singular how this last coin, which is of great rarity, could have fovmd its way to a spot so distant from its place of mintage. The form of the ground on this slojDe seems to have been much altered by landslips, which occiu' fi'equently on the sides of the deep ravines. On the shore below these platforms are remains of an ancient mole. It is evident that a Greek city must have occupied this site : the situation corresponds with that of Ophrynium, as described by Strabo ; and the finding of so large a number of coins of this city on the platform renders this all the more probable.™ Continiiing to explore the shoi'e southward from Renkoi, I noticed at a fountain distant about fifty minutes fi'om that place fragments of red pottery and building-stones. The headland, which stands a little in advance of the supposed site of the ancient Rhseteum, must have served as an Hellenic burial-ground ; for on examin- ino- the side of the cliff about 8 feet below the surface of the ground, a vein may be traced which contains fragments of small vases, pieces of bone, and cine- rary remains. It appears that the dead here were interred in large jars of coarse red earthenware. On the surface of the field above are many fi-agments of pottery. The ground swells out gradually fi-om the middle of the field towards the edge of the 134 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES cliff, and fi'om its form suggests the probability tliat a tumulus, since levelled, once stood here. At the distance of an hour to S.W. of Renkoi, and within a few minutes' walk of the sea, are the ruins of an old Byzantine church, called Agios Athanasi. The foundations of this church are 66 feet in length by 57 feet in breadth. Among the ruins are fi'agments of columns and capitals of the Roman period. Coins of Sigeum have been found here. Near the confluence of the small river Kemar with the Mendere, at the distance of five hours to the south of the Dardanelles, is a chiflik, or farm, of the Calverts, situated at the village of Atshik-koi. Here are two ancient tumuh, marked in the Admiralty chart as Herman Tepe and Khani Tepe. During our visit to Renkoi, Mr. Frank Calvert drove a gal- lery and shaft through Khani Tepe. Notliing was found in the interior except a layer of ashes near the bottom, but the excavation was not carried low enough to obtain a conclusive result ; for it is well known that the most important remains have been found in Greek tumuli below their apparent base.®^ Between these two tumuli is a spot on the banks of the river Kemar, which, on examination, proved to be an Hellenic cemetery. I was present at an excavation made here by Mr. Calvert. The dead were here buried in large crocks or jars of coarse red pottery. These jars were called by the ancients pitlioi. It was in such a pithos, and not, as is vulgarly supposed, in a tub, that Diogenes dwelt. Jars similar in shape and scale are used by the Greeks at the present day to hold water. They are TN THE LEVANT. 135 sunk in tlie ground up to the mouth, at the door of their houses, and are called cnpas, -which seems to be a corruption of the Arabic houb, a vault. In oiu- excavation, the pithoi were found only a few inches below the sm'face, the plough having worked down nearly to their level. They varied in size, the largest being about 4 feet 6 inches in height. "We foimd them lying on theu^ sides, the mouth generally looking to the south-east. The mouth of each pifhos was closed by a flat stone. Each contained one or more skeletons, doubled up, and in several were painted vases. One jar contained eight small vases mixed with the bones.^' The figiu'es painted on some of the vases were in black on a red ground ; others red, on a black ground : all seemed of a very late period. The pitlioi have been anciently mended with leaden rivets, numbers of which were found among the bones. Some of these were nearly a foot long."'' Immediately below these jars we came to the native rock of the field, a proof that no earlier interments had taken place in this cemetery."^ I took advantage of a little leisiu-e at Renkoi to read the Ihad over again in the presence of the great natiu'al features of the scene. No one who has not seen the magnificent outhne which bounds the horizon of the plain of Troy can bring home to his mind the stirring and marvellous narrative of the poet as Homer meant it to affect his readers or rather hearers. We supply the scenery of the Iliad fi'om our imagination, or, rather, we do not supply it at aU ; we do not think of the Homeric landscape, 136 TRAVELS AND WSCOVErJES on wliicli the Homeric battle-scenes were relieved. The background is blank, like the plane svirface on wliich a Greek fi'ieze was relieved. But to the audience of Homer the names of the rivers and moun- tains in the poem recalled an actual landscape ; and all through the ancient poets there is a Greek land- scape imphed rather than described, of which the untravelled scholar can form no conception. Wliile we were at the Dardanelles, I observed a cimous trait of Greek manners. The agent of the Calverts had lost 40,000 piasters by a robbery in his house. The robbery was traced home to the people of this village, and after some days the priest of the place declared in church that he had a charm which would infallibly discover the thief. This charm is the leg-bone of a wolf, which, if boiled in milk with a ploughshare, and then bui^nt, has the extraordinary property of rendering the thief lame : the moment the bone is put in the fire, one of the legs of the thief is forthwith paralyzed. The priest announced this in the morning, adding that he would not bm-n the wolf's bone till the next day. That same night the whole of the stolen property was thrown into the garden of its rightftd owner in a bag, and so the thief did not incur the punishment prepared for him. I suspect that behind this exhibition of priestcraft there was a more real and tangible threat on the part of the Pasha of the Dardanelles, that he wovdd make the village responsible for the amount stolen ; and so the priest, now as ever, was made the instrument of the Government. IN THE LEVANT. IS'J XII. Ehodes, April 4, 1853. Having been requested by Mr. Kerr, H.M.'s Con- sul at Eliodes, to act in his place during liis absence in England, I left Blunt in charge of Mytilene, and came here by the Austrian steamer a few days ago. On arriving, I found Mr. Kerr as eager to leave Rhodes as I was to visit an island which promised so rich a field of archfeological research. His impatience was not unnatural, for he has now vegetated at Cy|Drus and Rhodes for twelve long- years without ever asking for a furlough, and his mind, natm-ally an active one, is weary of the petty intrigues and cabals which constitute the very essence of Levantine society in small places, and which a Consul can hardly keep clear of without extreme discretion and forbearance. After the rough life we have been leading at Mytilene, I was not sorry to instal myself in a house to which the residence of an English family has imparted an air of comfort, such as our bachelor menage at Mytilene never attained to. Instead of being dependent on the tender mercies of my drago- man for daily food, I find myself waited on by three servants who have been taught to minister to British ways and wants under the carefiil training of Mrs. Kerr, and one of whom actually speaks broken English, and knows how to lay the cloth for dinner. 138 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES Judging from first impressions, I should imagine Rhodes to be a much more agreeable residence for an Enghshman than Mytilene'. Here there is a real Frank quarter, where you hear as much French and Italian spoken in the streets as Greek ; there is too in the manners of the people generally a tinge of European civilization which I have seen nowhere else in the Archipelago. From the circumstance that the trade of Rhodes is principally in the hands of Frank merchants, and that this beautiful island has always been a favourite place of residence for French, Itahans, Maltese, and other emigrants from Europe, Latin Christianity has an ascendancy here wliich would not be allowed in islands like Mytilene, where the Greeks discourage as much as possible all foreign settlers, especially those of the Romish faith. At this season Rhodes is arrayed in aU the fresh- ness of luxm-iant spring. The sceneiy round the town has a peculiar beauty. The land is formed in a succession of natural terraces down to the sea ; in every view the palm-tree is seen against the horizon, reminding the Enghshman in what latitude he is, which otherwise might be forgotten, from the extra- ordinary mildness of the temperatm-e. In every direction I find long and silent lanes, stretching away for miles thi'ough the suburbs between high garden- walls, from the top of which ivy and other shrubs hang over in rich profusion. The air is scented with orange-flowers, the earth is covered with abundant crops. The houses are all built of squared stone, with flat roofs. Many of them have TN THE LEV.\XT. 139 a strange tenantless aspect ; for Rhodes is a place whicli has been long wasting away with that atrophy which is consuming the Ottoman empire. The town is far too large for its inhabitants, who are huddled away into holes and corners. About a year ago an earthquake threw down one of the fine old towers. Its ruins fell in one of the principal streets, blocking- it up. Not a stone has been touched by the Turks, and the ruins may perhaps lie there till another earthquake shakes them up again. After having been jostled by the throng of mules and market-people in the long, crooked, miry streets of Mytilene, it is pleasant to walk in a place where for miles you meet nothing but a stray donkey, where no sound is heard but the echo of your own footsteps on a pavement of pebbles, the most beau- tifidly clean that I ever trod on. AJl the court- yards and many of the streets in the Frank quarter are paved with roimd shingle-stones fi'om the beach, in many places worked in very neat patterns, which we might well imitate in England. I delight in the distant views, which are on a much grander scale than those of Mytilene. Looking at the map, you will see that the opposite shores of Lycia and Caria are much broken by bays and headlands, which form a magnificent jagged sky-line, sweeping round in a kind of panorama towards the south, where the vast forms of snow- capped mountains come into view. The sea is perpetually agitated, sometimes by tremendous gales, and has not that look of molten metal which it has generally in the Archipelago. The 140 TKAVELS AND DISCOVERIES only signs here of human activity are the wind- mills, which revolve eternally before my windows. They stand in a long row by the sea-shore, and the effect of a sunset seen thi'ough their gaunt and skeleton-like arms is most pictm-esque. Ever since my arrival I have been engaged in a variety of consular affairs, which, though often weari- some in detail, are not without interest, because the minute study of such local matters gives an insight into the state of society in this part of the Archi- pelago. The other day I witnessed a singular scene, very Corsican in character. A native of the island of Cassos had been condemned to death for a murder committed two years ago in Alexandria. The trial took place here ; there was good reason for believing that the real murderer had been let off and the wrong one convicted ; so the case was reported to Constanti- nople, and there were hopes of a reprieve through the intervention of Colonel Rose with the Porte. Wliile the case was ^^ending, the eldest son of the Greek who had been assassinated, thirsting for ven- geance, went up to Constantinople and obtained a firman ordering the immediate execution of the criminal. He arrived with the fatal warrant and presented it to the Caimakam, who is now acting here as Governor in tlie absence of the Pasha of Rhodes. The hopes which we had entertained were gone ; but in concert ^^^th the Gi'eek and Russian Yice-Consuls, I tried to persuade the Caimakam into a few days' delay. Now the Caimakam was IN THE LEVANT. 141 a, fat stuffy little man, a sort of Tui'kisli alder- man ; very good-natm-ed, fussy, and nervous, very anxious to oblige the English Consul, very much afraid of all responsibility ; so he referred the matter to the Mejlis or municipal council ; and to the Mejlis I went. As I have mentioned in a former letter, a Consul only goes to this council on great occasions. In ordinary matters he sends his dragoman, for fear that the Turks, by constantly holding intercourse Avith him, should discover that he is but a mere mortal like themselves, and so take to despising him. I found there present the whole family of the murdered man. This is the usual custom, according to Turldsh law. Wlien the firman, or death-warrant, has arrived from Constantinople, it is still invalid Avithout the solemn assent of each member of the family of the murdered man, declared before the Governor and Mejlis ; and even after this, at the place of execution, all the members of the family are asked once more if they give their consent ; and any one of them can still par- don the condemned by dissenting from the rest. The family who appeared on this occasion before the court stood in a Hue at the end of the room, like a row of masked and muffled figures on the ancient Greek stage. They consisted of the old mother of the murdered man, his widow, a daughter and son, both grown up, and two younger children. They were all in deep mourning ; the women wore l)lack veils overshadoAving their foreheads, and looked like the avenging furies Avho pursued Orestes. Each was asked in turn what their wish was, and each in turn uttered the fatal word ouy.a., " blood." I never 142 TEAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES shall forget the savage expression with which this declaration Avas made. The widow stepped forward into the middle of the court, and said, raising her fiendish ai^ms, " I wish to lick his blood from the executioner's knife." A httle boy, not fourteen years old, glared at me with eyes gleaming like those of a tiger's cub. We had enter- tained some hopes that the old mother would have relented; and a humane Tiu'k, one of the members of the Mejlis, asked her whether she woidd not forgive, as she hoped Grod would forgive her ; but it was all in vain. It is said that the widow carried a brace of pistols in her bosom, and threatened to shoot any of the family who showed symptoms of relenting. I saw there was no more to be done, so I turned to the Cai- makam, and said," If this man is executed to-day, and there afterwards comes a counter-order from Con- stantinople, I regard you as responsible for aU the consequences; on your head be it." I had no very distinct idea what consequences there could be, but felt it necessary, in a case of life and death like this, to say something. A mysterious threat always teUs with the Tiu-ks more than a definite one, and the Caimakam trembled hke Fehx. I got up and left the Mejhs, and then arose an old grey-bearded Mussulman, the Capouji Bashi of Ehodes, whose position is, to a certain extent, independent of that of the Governor, and said, " Caimakam, I wash my hands of this matter ; if you choose to disobey the fh^man, take the consequences yourself" So the poor Caimakam, finding himself deserted by the Mejlis, gave way, IN THE LEVANT. 143 and decided on risking nothing for tlie chance of saving an innocent man. The Mejlis broke up. The family of avengers stood on the quay, the usual place of execution at Rhodes, waiting im- patiently for the condemned man to appear. The Cavass Bashi, or chief of the police, calmed their im- patience by teUing them that an executioner could not be found. The fact was that the Turks Avere afi'aid of a rescue. There was a ship in the harbour ftiU of Cassiotes, coimtrymen of the condemned, and the sympathies of the whole Greek population of Rhodes were roused. So the Turks, having quieted the friends of the condemned by saying that there was a reprieve for three days, and ajjpeased the family by the excuse of not being able to find an executioner, proceeded to double the guards of the konak, and to get the guns of a ship of war in the harbour ready to fire on the quay, if necessary. Then at sunset, locking the town gates a little sooner than usual to prevent any great crowd, they called in the family, who rushed to the place of exe- cution Avith savage joy, shut out the sympathizing- crowd, and finished what we call in England the last act of the law — I am afraid that in Turkey such executions are sometimes but legalized mm-ders. I had been out walking to enjoy the glorious sunset, congratulating myself with the faint hope that our exei'tions had obtained a few days' reprieve, when I met a great crowd coming fi'om the town. In the centre was a woman with a flushed cheek and fierce eye, beating her naked bosom with alternate hand, and in regular time, the action reminding me 144 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES at once of tlie planckis of the ancients. It was the sister of the unhappy man who had just been exe- cuted. Her eyes had no tears ; she was thinking of a futux'e vendetta, when her turn would come. The next day the Glreek ships in the harbour lowered their colours half-mast high. A long pro- cession of all the principal Greeks in Rhodes attended the funeral of the unhappy man, who I really believe was sacrificed to some vile family feud ; and after the funeral I had a visit from the chief mourner, Mr. Leonidas Sakelarides. The mention of his name obliges me to give a sketch of a long previous history, in which this execution is only one act. Some three years ago, an Austrian vessel was wi-ecked off the little island of Cassos. The Cassiotes are enterpris- ing mariners, Avho combine the professions of trader and pirate in a Avay more profitable to themselves than pleasant to their neighboiu's. The captain of the Austrian vessel went on shore, little knowing that he had entered into a den of thieves. He drew up the usual protest, or declaration of the shipwi'eck, before the only local authority he could find in the island, a Greek council of primates. The captain unluckily knew no Greek. The secre- tary of the Council being the only person in the place who knew Italian, pretended to take down the captain's protest in Greek, writing all the time a false declaration to the effect that all the cargo was lost at sea. This false protest the captain un- knowingly signed. Then the Cassiotes, thinldng themselves secure, plundered the vessel and appro- priated all the cargo. But the ship having been IX THK LEVANT. 145 insured at Malta, in due course the fraud was discovered by the under-m-iters, and satisfaction demanded from the Turkish Government. Mr. Leo- nidas, the chief mourner, is a young Cassiote wlio was educated at Athens, where lie acquired notions of a civilization unknown to his pirate countrymen. He denounced the persons who had plimdered the ship, and through his means the facts were proved against them. In revenge they burnt his house and his young sister alive in it, and attempted his own life ; so that now he lives at Rhodes, being- afraid to go to Cassos. Now the fi'ay in Alexandria, in which one Greek was killed, and in consequence of which another was executed, arose out of the long-standing Cassiote feud between Leonidas and the pirates whom he denounced. If this feud had never been, the man would never have been killed, nor his supposed murderer executed. Leonidas, a near relation of the man executed, tried to save his life by making a sort of compromise with other accused parties in Cassos. Failing in this, he now takes his turn in exacting vengeance ; and on the day after the execution, he appeared at the Mejlis, and de- noimced the Avidow who had sIioaati such blood- thirstiness, as one of the persons who had bvu-nt his house and sister. The answer which the widow gave to this charge in my presence Avas very characteristic. " I thought," she said, "that it was always lawful to ]:)urn the house of an enemy." I foresee that Cassos from this day forth will l^e L 146 TltAVELS AXD DISCOVBEIES divided by a deadly feud, wliich mil last perhaps even longer than the Turkish empire. This little island now contains two parties, each solemnly pledged to destroy each other's life and property, — the party of Leonidas, who seems to have a courage worthy of Thermopylge, and the party of the pirates, who are quite prepared to burn him alive. XIII. Ehodes, A2iiil 28, 1853. When landing at Rhodes, we behold foi- the first time the fortress wliich so long formed the imjjreg- nable outwork of Latin Christianity in the East, and which, though shattered by cannon and earthquakes, stiU presents to us one of the noblest and most instructive specimens of military architecture in the fifteenth century : when walking I'ound its walls, we recognize on every bastion and tower, the names and escutcheons of Grand Masters famous in the annals of its two sieges ; when, after winding om" way through gateways, stiU defended by drawbridge and portculhs, we find ourselves in that long and lonely street, where the auherges of the Knights stand side by side, still wearing on then- richly- sculptm'ed fronts the proud insignia of the Order, the heart would indeed be dead to human sympathies which could remain unmoved in the presence of these tune-honoured monuments of Christian valom\ So absorbing indeed is the charm of this first IN THE LEVANT. 147 impression, so completely does it fill our imagina- tions, that we forget for awhile the interest which belongs to Rhodes as the site of one of the great maritime repubhcs of the ancient world, a city cele- brated not less for the wisdom of its institutions than for the beauty of its architectiu'e, the perfection of its ports and arsenals, and the strength of its de- fences by sea and land. Founded B.C. 408, and laid out by the same great architect, Hippodamos, who built the Pirgeus, Rhodes was probably one of the earliest of the Hellenic cities of which the plan was designed by one master mind. Hence that symmetry in the arrangement of the city which the rhetorician Ai'istides, writing in the second century A.D., describes in a well-known passage. Rhodes, he says, was built in the form of an amphitheatre ; the temples and public buildings were groujjed together so as to form one composition, of wliich the several parts balanced each other as in the design of a sinsle edifice. The whole was encompassed by a wall, which, with its stately towers and battlements, he compares to a crown. The temples and other public buildings were adorned with celebrated works in painting and sculpture ; and, according to Pliny, the city con- tained no less than 3,000 statues, of which 100 were of colossal size.^^ The maritime greatness of Rhodes was due not only to its geographical position, but also to the convenience of its harbours and to the perfect equip- ment of the dockyards and arsenal, which, from (i.) L 2 * 148 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES Strabo's description, occupied a large space in rela- tion to tlie rest of the city, and, like those of Carthage and Halicarnassus, were probably screened from observation by high walls and roofs. Any ciuuous interloper found within these forbidden precincts at Rhodes or at Carthage was hable to the punishment of death. Aristides, in describing the harbours, specially praises their convenience in reference to the prevail- ing winds. They are so disposed, he says, as if for the express purpose of recei'S'ing the ships of Ionia, Caria, Cyi^rus, and Egypt. Towering above these harbours stood the famous bronze Colossus, which, from its position on the shore, was probably intended to serve as a sea-mark and a lighthouse. So vast a surface of poUshed metal reflecting the bright sky of Rhodes, must have been -sasible from a great distance at sea, and must have been to the Rhodian mariner an object as familiar as the statue of Athene Promachos was to those vho sailed past the Attic Sunium. Such was the character of Rhodes as far as can be gathered from the scanty notices in ancient authors. Vague and incomplete as these notices are, they suggest to us an idea of the ancient city far more definite than can be obtained by a visit to its site, of which the main features are so obUte- rated that the few vestiges which remain can only be detected after long study. It will be convenient, before putting together these scanty remains of ancient Rhodes, to give a short description of the city built by the Knights, PIalr.4 # • • klJiii IN THE LEVANT. 149 as certain points in the topography can then be fixed for reference. (See the Pkxn, Phxte -i.) The present harbonrs of Rhodes seem to have been originally mere indentations in the line of the coast, subseqiiently improved by Hellenic art. The entrance to the principal harbour is flanked on the west by the tall sqnare tower now called the Arab tower, and on the east by a long mole running nearly north, and terminating in the tower of St. Angelo. (Plate 5.) To the west lies a smaller harbour, now called by the Greeks Mandraki, or the sheep-fold, from its secm'ity. This smaller harbour doulitless con- tained in antiquity the triremes and other ships of war; the larger harbovu- l)eing then, as now, the receptacle for merchant-ships. The eastern side of Port Mandraki is formed by a massive Hellenic mole running parallel to the eastern side of the larger harbour, and defended at its extremity by the tower of St. Nicholas, which now serves as a lighthouse. Its entrance is protected from the north wind by a small rocky promontory, on which the Lazaretto now stands. To the east of the great harbour is a third natural indentation, which does not appear to have been used as a re- gular port in antiquity, though on the ridge of the rocks which bounds it are the remains of an Hellenic mole. This was probably intended to serve as a break- water in aid of the mole on the eastern side of the harbour. The town is built round the great harbour, following its curve, so that the area which it occupies may he compared to an irregular cres- 150 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES cent. The fortifications witli wliicli it is encircled, both by sea and land, extend from tbe round tower on the eastern side of the entrance to the gi'eat harbour to the tower of St. Nicholas, at the mouth of Port Mandraki. On the land side the town is defended by a waU of circumvallation, and a fosse cut out of the native rock, which, being easily quarried, aflFords the same facilities for making fortifications which the Knights afterwards found at Malta. The fosse is from 40 to GO feet deep, and in width fi'om 90 to 140 feet. The escarp and counterscarp are l)uilt of squared stones of moderate size, which were probably quarried out on the spot. In some places the fosse is doubled. The terreplein of the walls is 40 feet wide. Here stiU remain many of the fine old brass guns of the Knights, on which the flenr-de-Iis, the basilisk of Francis I., and other heraldic badges, may be recog- nized. The vents are protected from the weather by old cuirasses taken out of the armoury of the Knights. Everywhere the immense stone balls lie about the ramparts. Many of these have been used to repair the breaches in tlio walls. In the towers, bastions, and other works by which these lines are strengthened in various places, the mihtary engineer may trace the first germs of that science of fortifi- cation which has been developed jmri passu with the improvement in artiUeiy, and which in the fifteenth century seems to have l^een more advanced in the Levant than in Europe. All round the gi^eat liarbom* the to^^^^ is defended by a wall with square towers at intervals: this wall is Plate 6. £y tS \,it^ii.!ff^u /fittfti^ it^K.(F^U r'^i?Cty RHODES. D'AMBOISE GATE. London. PaWislieA bv Dav & Son, LitH"-- to ihc Onec ■I o IN THE LEVANT. 151 entered by the gate of St. Catherine, now called the Bazaar gate. An inner wall, commencing fi'om this gate, rmis across the interior of the town from east to west, and after throwing ont an angle to the north, joins the main line of circnmvallation about halfway between the Amboise gate and the gate of St. George. The area on the north, enclosed be- tween the inner wall and the outer lines, is called in the old chronicles the upper town, or Castello, and contained the palace of the Grand Master, the auberges or lodges of the different langncs of the Order, and the churches of St. John the Baptist and St. Catherine. In this upper town or Castello dwelt the Grand Master and the Knights ; the lower town was inhabited by a mixed population of Jews and Greeks. In the north-west angle of the Castello is the palace of the Grand IMaster, which, as it occupies the highest ground within the fortress, was naturally chosen by the Knights as their citadel. The Castello is entered fi'om the west by a noble gateway (Plate 6), commenced by the Grand Master D'Aubusson after a great earthquake, and finished by his successor D'Amboise, from whom this gate takes its name. Over the door within an ogee frame is a slab of white marble, on which is sculp- tured in rehef an angel holding the escutcheon of Amboise, -with the inscription, " AmboyseMDXII." A drawbridge connects this gateway with a stone bridge which here spans the fosse with three arches. (Plate 7.) Over the Amboise gate a head was for- merly fixed, which has been thus described to me. It was flat at the top, and pointed like the head of a 152 TKAYELS AND DISCOVEEIES serpent, and as large as the head of a lamb. This head was certainly on the gate as late as the year 1829, and seems to have been taken down when the gate was repaired, some time previous to 1837.°° This is, perhaps, the same head which Thevenot saw, 1657, and which he thus describes : — " Elle etait beaucoup plus grosse et plus large que celle d'un cheval, la gueule fendue jusqu'aux oreilles, de grosses dents, les yeux gros, le trou des narines rond, et la peau tirant sur le gris blanc." According to the tradition in Thevenot's time, and which has been preserved in Rhodes ever since, this was the head of the great sei'pent slain by Dieudonne de Gozon in the fourteenth century.^" Passing through this gate, a vaulted passage leads through the counterscarp over a second and third fosse, which defend the palace of the Grand Master on the west. After crossing the third fosse, the road enters the Castello between the church of St. John and the palace of the Grand Master opposite to the upper end of the street of the Knights. This street, which runs east and west, divides the Cas- tello into two nearly equal parts. At its western extremity has been a beautiful vaulted building, of which the single remaining arch is given in Plate 8. In Rottier's time several of these arches were standing. On the south of this building is the chm'ch of St. John the Baptist, which seems to have been enlarged and altered by successive Grand Masters, and was probably founded by Foulques de Villaret on the first establishment of the Knights at RHODl.S, ARCH NEAR CHURCH OF S'fJOHN I..ind.ii 'ished by DayS: .Son, J^tlf '^ to tlie Qaeen IN THE LEVANT. 153 Rhodes. Tlie outside lias no avchitectural feature. Its plan is a rectangular basilica, containing a nave and two aisles, with a clock-tower, the vipper part of which was destroyed in the siege. The interior di- mensions are 150 feet in length by 52 feet in breadth. The columns dividing the aisles fi'om the nave are chiefly of granite, and are probably taken from several ancient buildings. The roof is of wood, the beams and ceiling blue, spangled with golden stars. In the pavement .of the nave are the remains of the tomb of the Grand Master Fabrizio del Carretto. His effigy, which must have been sculptm-ed in low relief on a flat slab, has been destroyed, but the border of the slab still remains, with an inscription at the foot, recording his name, titles, and services, and with the date 1520. At the head of the slab was his escutcheon. Carretto was the last Grand Master bm'ied at Rhodes. In the pavement the German traveller Ross saw a number of other sepulchral slabs with figm'es of knights in relief dressed in the long robe of the Order, but too much defoced to be identified. He also found here a Greek inscription containing a list of contributions to some public sub- scription.'^'^ In the windows was formerly stained glass, with escutcheons of the Knights, several of which were copied by Rottier. On either side of the choir Ross remarked some carved woodwork painted and gilt, with niches containing smaU images of the Apostles.'^' Opposite to the chvu'ch of St. John is the entrance to the palace of the Grand blaster through a gateway flanked by two towers facing the south. 154 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES On entering under this gateway, "we come to an open space covered with cisterns, in which the Turks keep stores of grain. In fi-ont is a confused mass of ruinous buildings, of which the plan can no longer be made out. On the left are strong square towers defending the citadel on the west. On the right a staircase leads to an open gallery communicating with many small rooms. In these the gan'ison pro- bably dwelt. On the north the palace is defended by a tower overlooking a broad and lofty platform, which is raised by sohd masonry out of the depth of the fosse. It was from the artillery planted on this platform that the Turks suffered so much during the first siege in their attack on Fort St. Nicholas, from the church of St. Antonio, now a small mosque near the Lazaretto. Returning from the Grand Master's palace to the archway already noticed (ante, p. 151), we look down the long and narrow street which is well known to travellers by the name of Strada dei Cavaheri, or Street of the Knights. In no Eui'opean city, perhaps, can be found a street so little changed since the fifteenth century. No Vandal hand has disturbed the perfect repose and keeping of the scene by demolition or re- pairs ; the very pavement has a medifeval look, as if it had known no thoroughfare since its broad marbles were trodden by Christian warriors three centuries ago. No sound of near or distant trafiic breaks in on the congenial stillness ; we might almost suppose the houses to be without inhabitants, were it not for the rude Turkish jalousies which project on either side, flinging long slanting shadows across IN THE LEVANT. 155 the riclily-sculptm-ed facades, and lending mystery to a solitude only distiu'bed, wlien fi'om the gloom of some deep archway a veiled form glides by with averted face, scared at the unwelcome presence of the Frank traveller. About halfway down the street, on the left, as you descend, is the miberge or lodge of the French Jangve (Plate 9), the fagade of which is particularly rich in heraldic ornament. Over the door are the arms of the Order, and those of Emeri d'Amboise, mth the date 1492, and two other coats. In the upper story, wathin a frame of Gothic leaves, are the arms of France and of D'Aubusson on a marble tablet. Above the French coat are the words Montjoie and St. Denis ; below, the date, 1495, and the words Voluntas Dei est. Near the doorway is the escutcheon of VilHers de I'lsle Adam, as Grand Prior, -n-ith the inscription " Pour Philerme, 1511." In another place the same coat, with the inscription " Pour la Maison, 1511," and a tablet inscribed "Pour I'Oratoire, 1511." Over a side-door the arms of the Order, those of Emeri d'Amboise and of Yilliers de I'lsle Adam, between oriflammes. The facade is crowned with battlements and small turrets, below which two long fantastic dragons' heads project as gurgoyles. A little higher up an archway crosses the street, above which is the miberge of the Spanish langiie. The arms of England ma}^ be seen on another house. At the bottom of the street is a house with the escutcheon of the Grand Master, Fabrizio del Carretto, and the date 1519. The style of archi- 156 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES • tecture tlirougliout tliis street is an interesting modification of the later Gotliic. The escutclieons are generally set in a richly-sculptured ogee arch. Most of the Avindows are square-headed, Avith labels and upright muUions, while the pointed arch is constantly employed in the doorways. In the rich and fantastic ornaments we recognize the Flamboy- ant style so generally prevalent in Europe in the fifteenth century; but these ornaments are but sparingly introduced, so as not to disturb the noble simplicity of the general design. In all the edifices built by the Knights at Rhodes we see the same ten- dency to temper the stern and naked ruggedness of mihtary masonry as far as possil^le with rich orna- ments, such as we generally find associated with ecclesiastical architecture. No fitter symbol coidd have been adopted than this mixed style, to express the character of an order at once military and religious. At the lower end of the Street of the Knights is the old church of St. Catherine, now a mosque ; in the windows a few coats of arms are still painted. The last building on the south side of the street is the Hospital of the Knights. This is a large square edifice, with a very simple external facade. The entrance is under a kind of vestibule facing the east. The original doors, which were of cypress-wood richly carved, were given to the Prince de Joinville on the occasion of his visit to Rhodes. On either side are large vaults now used as warehouses. The inside is a quadrangle, supported on vaults, above which are open arcades formed of round arches IN THE LEVANT. 157 resting on pillars. Adjoining the arcades are four long rooms, corresponding with the four sides of the quadi-angle. These saloons and the open galleries are covered with a roof of cypress-wood in very fine condition. The four rooms were evidently for the sick, the open galleries for the convalescent to walk in. In one of the vaulted magazines in the basement, the chain which served to close the entrance to the hai'bom' was formerly kept, and was seen by Ross in his visit in 1843. He describes it as 750 feet lono;, each link beinof 1^ foot lonof. Since his %-isit it has been removed to Constantinople. The hospital was commenced by Villeneuve, and completed by the Grand Master Fluvian, and seems to have been well planned for its pm'pose. It now forms an excellent barrack. In front of its eastern fagade is an open space leading to the gate of St. Catherine. This gate is defended by two massive round towers, with deep projecting machicoulis. Over the gate is a relief in marble, representing St. Catherine, St. Peter, and St. Paid ; below, the arms of the Order and of D'Aubusson, and the inscription " Reverendus D. F. Petrus d'Aubussonius Rhodi mamus ma2:ister banc turrem et portas erexit." "" The inner wall, running from this gate across the town to a point south of the Amboise gate, and separating ofi" the CasteUo fi'om the lower town, has been already noticed. South of this line are the bazaar and Jews' quarter, and on the west a number of small tortuous streets inhabited by Turks. This part of the town in the fifteenth century was occu- (I.) 158 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES pied by the Greeks and Jews, wlio traded under the protection of the Knights. Throughout both the Castello and lower town, the streets have the same general character ; the houses have flat roofs, and are built of stone throughout. At frequent intervals broad arches cross the streets overhead. (See Plate 10.) This mode of building was probably adopted to facihtate communication from point to point, and afi"ord additional shelter from the fire of the enemy during a siege. The majority of these houses are cubical in form, and built in the simplest manner, without any architectural feature. Here and there bits of richly-sculptured facades may be met with. On the left of the bazaar is a building which bears the traditional name of Castellania, or Palace of Justice. On the fagade are the arms of the Grand Master D'Amboise, in a rich Gothic frame. The windows have lihes sculptured on their mullions and transoms. This building abuts on the wall which runs round the shore of the harbour. Near it is another, to which tradition gives the name " Admi- ralty." The entrance-door is under a pointed arch. This building is less richly ornamented than the Castellania. Nothing certain is known as to the original purpose of these two edifices. In the Jews' quarter is a house which was probably the residence of some wealthy merchant, as it stUl contains a large room with a richly-carved ceiling. The remains of the chiu-ch of St. Marc are near the Admiralty. Kottier gives a number of coats of arms copied in this church. The mosque of Suhman, situated a httle to the Plat =10 RHODES STREET OF KNIGHTS I.onaon PatU£lI^cI W TJirS: EOT..IitH?to l>.e Qanm. (LlMiTeo) IN THE LEVANT. 169 east of the gate of St. George, was probably tlic cliurcli of the Apostles. It has a jjortico of white marble columns ; on each side of the door is a pilaster, on which are richly sculptured in relief helmets, battle-axes, and angels' heads between festoons. The design is a beautiful specimen of Renaissance ornament, and must have l^een executed at the close of the fifteenth centmy. The Bene- dictine and Augustine convents have also been converted into mosques. Two gates originally led into the lowei' town from the land side, — the gate of St. George, which was afterwards walled up by the Knights, and the gate of St. John tlie Baptist, now known as the Koskino gate, on the south. Between these two gates arc the Spanish tower and the tower of St. Mary, which defends the soifth- eastern angle of the fortress. Over the gate of St. John is a relief of the saint sculptured in freestone ; below, on a tablet of blue marble, the arms of the Order and of D'Aubusson, which seem of a later insertion. From this gate the fortifications bend round to the north-east, between the Jews' quarter and Jewish cemetery, till they reach the rocky shore, wliei'c they turn nearly due north, running to the commence- ment of the eastern mole of the harbour, which is prolonged in the same direction. Here the fortifi- cations meet the sea-wall of the harbour nearly at a right angle. The part of the fortifications between this angle and the gate of St. John was twice assailed by the Turks with their whole force, dm'iag the siege. On 160 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES the second assault they succeeded after a tremen- dous bombardment in mounting the breach, and were only driven back when D'Aubusson himself at the head of a chosen band of Knights regained pos- session of the ramparts and hurled the assailants back into the fosse. To commemorate this repulse the brave Grand Master built the chapel of Notre Dame de Victoire A^^thin the angle of the fortifica- tions at the commencement of the eastern mole, which has been already noticed.'^ On this mole stand three ^vindmills, beyond which is a battery armed on both sides ; and on the point of the mole a circular tower, called in later chronicles the Castle of St. John.''^' This mole rests on Hellenic foundations. On the opposite side of the harbour is the stately tower built by the Grand Master De Naillac, at the extremity of a mole running out to the east from the north-eastern angle of the fortress. (Plate 11.) The date of this tower is probably about A.D. 1 iOO. It is sometimes called by Bosio the tower of St. Angelo, and by later wi^iters the tower of St. Michael, a name for which there seems to be no authority. It consists of three square stories, crowned by a machicolated parapet with overhanging turrets at the four angles, above which rises an octagonal lantern. Round the outside of this lantern a winding staircase leads to the summit, which com- mands a most interesting bird's-eye Aaew of the town and environs of Rhodes. This tower is 150 feet high. Under the parapet is the escutcheon of De Naillac with that of the Order. In the basement IN THE LEVANT. 161 story Ross saw, in 1843, the macliiiie by wliicli in the time of the Knights the great chain was stretched across the harbour. The tower is united with the rest of the fortifica- tions by a stone bridge leading to a platform built on the mole, and armed with gmis on either side, so as to command a view of both harbom-s. This platform, which is 21 feet broad and 86 feet high, joins the main wall of the fortress at its north-eastern angle. At this point a small door leads from the shore of the main harbour into a battery which commands the mole of St. Nicholas, and thence through another door over a drawbridge, which leads out of the fortress to the Mandraki harbom*. Inside the battery is a small gate in the main wall, now built up, which seems to be the Porta del Castello mentioned in the old chronicles. Here four lines of fortifications intersect, running nearly according to the cardinal points of the compass. These are, to the south the wall defending the shore of the great harbour ; to the east the platform leading to the Naillac tower ; to the north the mole of St. Nicholas, and to the west the northern wall of the fortress. The mole of St. Nicholas, which forms the east- ern side of Port Mandraki, extends about 1,000 feet into the sea. It is in great measure the original Greek mole, the lower courses built of enormous squared blocks regulai'ly fitted together. At the extremity stands the castle of St. Nicholas, built by the Grand Master Raimond Zacosta. Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, contributed largely to M 162 TRAVELS AND DISCO\'EEIES the expense of its erection : his arms, with those of Zacosta, and of the Order, are still to be seen on the outer -wall next the sea. In the first siege of Rhodes the Turks made several furious assaults on this fort, bombarding- it fi'om the church of St. Antonio, and attempting to storm it by thromng a bridge of boats across the harbour of Mandraki. They were re- pulsed with great slaughter by D'Aubusson. Within this fort are casemates, magazines, and the remains of a chapel; above these is a platform, on which are many brass gims of the time of the Knights, some of Avhich bear the date 1482, others 1507, with the arms of France and England. This part of the fort seems much in the state in which the Knights left it. From the time of the Grand Master Zacosta the defence of the fortifications was so arranged that each langue had its appomted post. The distribu- tion of these posts was as follows : The German knights defended all the part between the west side of the Grand Master's palace and the gate of St. George. The langue d'Auvergne was posted from the gate of St. George to the Spanish tower ; the English from the Spanish tower to the tower of St. Mary, of which they defended the lower story. In the upper story of this tower, and thence as far as the gate of St. John, was the post of Arragon. This gate, with the outwork in front of it, and the waU as far as the Italian tower, were defended by the Provencal knights : thence, as far as the gate of St. Cathai'ine, were posted the Italians. The sea-waU fi-om the gate of St. Catharine to the Porta del Castello was defended by Castile IN THE LEVANT. 163 and Portugal ; and thence to the pahace of the Grand Masters was the post of the French. The palace itself, as far as the post of the Germans, Avas guarded by a special body of knights under the command of the Grand Master himself. It is cm'ious that in the tower of St. Mary, as- signed in both sieges to the Enghsh, the marble tomb- stone of an Enghsh knight may yet be seen built into the walls. It bears the following inscription : — HIC J AC ET. F R.TH O M AS N EWPORT. PODATUS. AG L lE.M I LES.QI.OBI IT 1 502, XXII. D I E. M ESIS SEPTEMBRIS.CViVS.ANIMA REQVIESCAT.IN.PACE AMEN 1502.^3 The numerous bronze gims which still remain in the batteries have been abeady noticed. Then- range is said to be about 2,000 yards. They are all honeycombed, and therefore imsafe. Much powder from the time of the Knights still remains, stowed away in vast magazines, connected with each other and with the ramparts by subterraneous gal- leries. In the upper to^vu is a small armoury, in which are preserved helmets, cuirasses, battle-axes, bronze mortars, hand grenades made of a kind of opaque glass, and various other interesting relics of the Knights. The western and southern sides of the fortifications are surrounded by two cemeteries ; that of the Turks extending from the Amboise gate to beyond the gate M 2 164 TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES of St. Joliu ; wlience to the shore is the burial-place of the Jews, lying immediately outside their quarter. Large Turkish gardens border these cemeteries, beyond -which on the south are the suburbs Bpano Maras and Kato Maras (the upper and lower Maras), both inhabited by Greeks. To the north-west of the town is the suburb Neo Chorio, or Neo Maras, the Frank quarter of Rhodes. Here are the residences of the consuls and the Roman Catholic chm'ch ; and a large proportion of the population of this suburb profess the Latin faith. These suburbs extend to the foot of St. Stephen's hill, which lies along the northern shore overlooking the town. This hill completely commands the fortifications of Rhodes, and, had the Tm'ks pos- sessed in the 15th century artillery of sufficient range to reach the town from such a distance, they would of course have made this ground the centre of their operations during the siege. Wlien the British fleet Avas at Marmarice in 1802, Sir Sidney Smith lived in a house on the summit of this hiU, which has since been known to English travellers as Sir Sidney Smith's hiU. It is here that the ancient city had its Acropolis. This hill is an irregular plateau, lying nearly parallel with the seashore, in a direction from N.E. to S.W., and descending on the S.B. and N.B. sides in a series of terraces to lower ground. The highest part of the hiU is where it overlooks the sea facing the N.W. On this side it terminates in a broken fine of clifi" very steep and inaccessible for the most part ; beloAV which the road to Trianta, resting on a IN THE LEVANT. 165 rocky base, winds along the sliore. If we ascend the N.E. face of St. Stephen's hill from the Neo Maras and follow the edge of the cliff to the S.W., there will be seen at inteiwals a bed cut in the rock on which doubtless stood the outer wall of the Acropolis. The continuity of this line of cutting is constantly interrupted by breaks in the edge of the cliff, large portions of which have been detached by earthquakes at different times, and may be seen lying- above and below the road to Trianta. Several of these fallen masses are hewn as if they had formed portions of tombs or of the bed of the wall above. The line of the rock, after continuing for some distance to the S.W., terminates iu broken ground just before the curve of the bay commences ; at this point the bed of the foundations cut in the rock makes an angle, turning to the east. Pursuing this new line across several fields, I came to polygonal blocks set in the modern wall of a field, after which the line was marked by a vertical cutting in the rock still pointing east. On a portion of this ver- tical cutting a course of oblong blocks still remained, the largest of which measured 10 feet 3 inches by 3 feet 4 inches. From the size of these blocks and fi-om the fact that the angle from which this line commences is the point where the ascent to the hill from the sea becomes more accessible on account of the termination of the cliff here, I infer that the courses of masonry are the foundations of a wall defending the Acropolis on this side. The base of the vertical cutting contains sepul- chral chambers cut in the rock. From this cutting (I.) 166 TEAVELS AND DISCO VEEIES the ground slopes down to tlie S.E. into a liollow, wliicli may have been a ravine. Proceeding eastward from this point, I came to a series of terraces and ravines so intersected by the walls of fields and gardens that it is exceedingly difii- cult to discern the vestiges of the ancient city ; still more so to indicate their position in such a manner as to enable subsequent travellers to find them. Everywhere I met with inscribed altars and bases of statues, and fragments of architecture, and especially in the courtyards of the ruined Turkish houses, which abound on the site. Many large tombs cut in the rock occur at intervals, and the beds to receive the foundations of temples were still to be traced in several places. It would be impossible to indicate with accm-acy the position of these remains unless a plan were made of the whole site on a large scale. In the absence of such a plan I noted down my ob- servations as much as possible in connection with several roads by which the hill is traversed and which may be considered as fixed points. In exploring this ground, I was accompanied by Mr. Alfred Biliotti, the cancelliere of the Consulate, whose great local knowledge enabled me to see much which I should otherwise have missed. On crossing the Turkish cemetery about half-way between the Amboise gate and the bastion of St. George, we come to the commencement of a road which points to the N.W., leading to the summit of St. Stephen's hill. For some yards from its commencement the rock is hewn on each side, showing the Une of an ancient way. IN THE LEVANT. 167 Following ttis line to a place wHere a piece of Hellenic wall occui's on the left side of the road, we turned off on a cross-road running in a S.S.E. di- rection, and having on the right a vertical cutting. Proceeding along this road we passed on the left an old chapel of the Knights, at wliich point the road tiu-ns to the S.B. A little further on is a chapel dedicated by the Grand Master Dieudonne de Gozo. I was told that an inscription in large characters had been recently found here, which had been con- cealed by the Turk to whom the field belongs. A little fm-ther on we came to a cross-road pointing to the N.W. In the wall bounding this road bn the right was part of a shaft of variegated marble, and in the same wall about three yards further on, the fi^ag- ment of an inscription in bhxe marble, which appears to have been a dedication to Helios, or the Sun- god, by certain Khodians. The last words of this fragment appear to refer to an earthquake. The inscription is in large letters of the Roman period. At this point we turned out of the road into some fields on the left. Here were foundations of a Byzan- tine building, and a little further on two inscriptions near a ruined house and a palm-tree. One of these was on a block of blue marble 3 feet by 2 feet by 2 feet, and recorded the conferring of a crown of gold on Anaxibios, son of Pheidianax, by the people of Rhodes. The letters were of a good period. The block seems to have formed part of a large pedestal. The other inscription was a dedication in honom' of one Timokrates, in fine letters on a square base of blue marble. On this spot are also two drums of tra- 168 TRAVELS AXD PISCO^TEIES vertiue columns. A few yards further to the S.W. are two drums of Doric columns 2 feet 9 inches in diameter, and apparently in their original position. They are of travertine which has been covered with stucco. The intercolumniation is 6 feet 3 inches. There are several more of these lying in the same hue along a ridge which continues for 31 yards from N. to S. and marks the line of these columns. To the W.N.W. of these remains is an artificial hollow with a terrace running round, which appears to be a stadium. The direction of this stadium is fi-om N.N.B. by E. to S.S.W. by W. At the southern end it is curved, the other end being open. Immediately to the north of the stadium is a ruined house with a well, at the side of which is a block of blue marble, 1 foot 7 inches wide by 1 foot 10 inches by 1 foot, on which is an inscription re- cording that the demos of the Lindopolitje and the 2)hratria (Trarpa) of tlie Druitte had rewarded with a golden crown Eualkidas, son of Antilochos, in the piiesthood of Antilochos."* This l)lock had been converted into a drinking- trough. To the N.N.W. of the stadium is a platform levelled and cut into steps, and in the boundary- wall of a vineyard is the di'um of a travertine column, about 5 feet 10 inches in diameter. Biliotti thinks that this is in position, and remem- bers large Hellenic Ijlocks on which it rests, and which are now covered with earth. It would seem fi'om the form of the ground that the vineyard occupies the site of a temple about 59 paces long by IN THE LEVANT. 169 45 broad. Its greatest length lies parallel with the stadium. Near this vineyard is a Turkish house, at the door of which is a square liase of blue marble inscribed with a dedication to Apollo Pythios by Glykon, an Athenian, who held the office of pro- xenos or consul at Rhodes. To the N.jST.W. of the dadiwtu. a road cut through the rock leads to a higher platform, where is the drum of a column of calcareous stone 4 feet in diameter. Near this cutting are some steps, also rough hewn. A little to the east of the dad'nmi is a great plat- form, where, perhaps, stood a temple of the Sun, as several mscriptions mentioning priests of this deity have been found near this spot. It will be seen by the plan, that another road leads from the Turkish cemetery to the Acropolis, commencing a little to the north of the Amboise gate. This road passes over a Uttle eminence, on which are three windmills. It was from this point that the cannon of Mahomet II. did great damage during the siege. Nearly parallel with this road may be traced very distinctly from the commence- ment of the slope to the windmills the line of an ancient way, indicated sometimes by the bed cut in the rock, and in one place 1)y the massive kerb- stones on one side. This road is marked in the Admiralty chart as a Avail. On the south side of it rectangular foundations cut in the rock indicate the position of tombs. The windmills stand on masses of rock, the base of which has been cut into sepul- chral chambers. On the north side of the Avindmills 170 TEATELS AND DISCOVEEIES are two circular shafts, wiiicli probably lead to sub- terraneous tombs. After passing the windmills, the traces of the ancient road become less distinct till they are lost on descending a slope crossed by a modern aqueduct. Its direction is N.W. to S.E. After following out this road, we examined some tombs on the S.E. side of the Acropohs. Here are some larsfe subterranean chambers lined with stucco, and entered by a vertical shaft. From an examination of this side of the Acropohs, 1 should infer that the strata of rock of wliich it is composed were originally scarped to a much greater depth than at present appears, the scarp having been filled up by the deposit of soil from above. In these scarps have been cut the entrances to tombs. In one place south of the stadium is part of a monolithic tomb, on the face of which is a buckler cut in relief. Crossing the Turkish cemetery in a direction south of the tower of St. Mary I came to a Turkish garden, where are six blocks of bhie marble,all of whichappear to be pedestals of statues. One of them was inscribed with a dedication by the people of Rhodes to Lucius Decrius and his wife Agrippina. In a courtyard a httle to the W. of these marbles is a block of blue marble, now a water-trough, measuring 4 feet by 2 feet 9 inches by 2 feet 4 inches, on which are the remains of a dedication in fine letters, recording the names of victors in the Pythian, Isthmian, and Nemean games, and in the games called Halieia, celebrated at Rhodes in honour of the Sim-god. IN THE LEVANT. 171 Below, in smaller characters, is the name of the sculptor, Theon of Antioch, by whom the object dedicated was made. The mention of Antioch proves that this inscription is of a date subsequent to Alexander the Great. In the same coixrtyard is a pedestal of blue mar- ble, 3 feet 9 inches by 2 feet by 2 feet 6 inches, with holes at the top for the feet of a statue. This is inscribed with the name Antisthenes, son of Archi- timos, priest of the Sun ; below is the name of the sculptor, Onasiphron, son of Kleonaios, of Salamis.''^ In this field is a raised platform, about 63 paces long by 21 wide, on which a temple may have stood. In an adjacent vineyard are many squared blocks built into the walls. To the S.W. of St. Stephen's hill a platform ex- tends along the shore, from the point where I noticed the angle made by the wall along the edge of the cliff. This platform is rather higher than St. Stephen's hiU. On its W. and S. edge is a ridge, on the surface of which lie at intervals loose square blocks of no gTcat size. This ridge, which follows the ovitline of the hill, marks the line of a waU for the defence of the platform ; but from the small size of the blocks it may be infen'ed that this wall was not part of the main fortifications of the Acropolis. From the evidence of an inscription relating to Zeus Atabyrios found here, Ross and M. Gueriu identify this platform as the hill which Arrian (Mithradat. c. 2G) describes as easily scaled, and as lia\dng on the summit a temple of that Deity surrounded by a low wall. It was this hill that 172 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES Mitliradates sought to surprise by a niglit attack during liis siege of Eliodes. The cliaracter of the site corresponds suflBciently witli the description in Arrian. It is probable that Mithradates landed beloTv, at about the same place as the Turks did in their expedition under Mahomet the SecondJ^ This platform overlooks a pleasant valley called Sandruh, where is an abundant soui'ce of water, overshadowed by planes, orange-trees, stone pines, and other trees. It was probably a favourite place of resort for the ancient Ehodians. It is hkely that tombs would be found on this platform, for on its S.E. side is a small marble cist, inscribed with the name of Timasikrates, the son of Bularchos, and another bearing the name of Bua- goras, son of Damaratos. A road which seems to foUow the line of an ancient road leads from San- druli to the south of St. Stephen's Mount. On the right-hand side of this road, at the distance of five minutes' walk from Sandruli, is a hill, on the side of which is a block of white marble, 3 feet 6 inches long by 2 feet by 1 foot 7 inches, on two opposite faces of which are sculptured three bulls' heads. From the centre head hangs an ivy wreath ; the other heads are crowned with myi'tle. On one face under the bulls' heads is a dedication in honour of Aristobulos of Termessos, and his wife Isigone of Ephesos. Both are styled on the marble benefactors ; and it is stated that Aristobulos de- fi'ayed the expense of the choregia on bringing out some dramatic entertainment three times. Close to this block was another, similar in form and IN THE LEVANT. 173 dimensions, on which it had probably been placed. These marbles seem to be part of a pedestal. A little higher up on the same hill is a square altar inscribed with the name of Xenobulos, son of ApoUodotos. At the foot of St. Stephen's hill, on the north, is a tannery, where may be seen several large blocks and drums of blue marble. Here is a natural foun- tain, and the site is not an unlikely one for a temple. A road passing this tannery runs on to the shore, crossing a bridge and then turning to the W. At the angle may be seen under the soil of the modern road courses of ancient squared blocks. This road leads to the village of Trianta. It is probable that it follows the line of the ancient road but on a higher level, as much rock has fallen from the cliff above. All along the side of the road hei"e the soil is full of fragments of pottery, and in one place is the entrance to a gallery cut in the rock, which points to the south, and may have been an aqueduct. Between St. Stephen's hill and the harbours, inscriptions and other remains of the ancient city may be seen in various places ; but such stray vestiges throw little or no light on the plan of the ancient city, and do not enable i:s to identify any one of its buildings. It is evident that, as Rhodes was strongly fortified, the Acropolis must have been connected with the harbours by walls enclosing a large area. Wliat the dii-ection of these walls was, cannot be determined without further evidence than we at present possess. It is probable 174 TKAVELS iVNV) DISOOVBEIES that they inchided the quarter called Neo Mai'as, north of the present town, and the greater part of the sandy spit beyond, for the following reasons. On this shore, as will be seen by the Admiralty chart, No. 1637, are two rows of windmills, which converge towards the point of the spit, and run nearly parallel with its shores. Between the two last windmills on the western shore, that is to say those most distant from the point of the sandy spit, is a foundation cropjiing up through the sand on the edge of the sea. On excavating here, I traced three lines of massive foundations, apparently the base of an oblong tower. The wall nearest the sea measured 26 yards, running N.N.E. by N. Another ran at right angles to it for 29^ yards, when it made a i-eturn. The opposite wall could only be traced for 15 yards. This foundation is composed of large blocks of conglo- merate, 8 feet 6 inches wide. The length of the longest was 15 feet 10 inches. The depth of these blocks was 1 foot 7-| inches. The foundation facing the sea had on its outer face a step 1 foot 6 inches wide. This face has been worn smooth by the action of the sea. The two foundations running at right angles, were entirely concealed beneath sand and shmgle, under which, as I advanced towards the windmills, I found ancient soil, with fragments of pottery. A little to the S.W. of these foun- dations is a rocky ridge running out iuto the sea, and forming a natural breakwater. Between the windmills and the French church is a swampy hoUow, which durmg most part of the year is covered with IN THE LEVANT. 175 water. Looking at the position of this lake I'elatively to the foundations on the shore, I am inclined to think that it must in ancient times have been a harbour. Indeed, I am assured by M. Ducci, the Russian vice-consul here, that he remembers to have heard fi^om old inhabitants of Rhodes a tradition that a canal formerly connected this lake with the sea. If we suppose that another canal anciently communicated between this lake and Port Mandraki, ships would have been able to pass in and out without having to weather the sandy point. Such an hypothesis woidd give a more definite meaning to the rhetorical statement of Aristides (see ante, p. 148), that the harbom-s of Rhodes were arranged as if for the express piurpose of receiving the ships of Ionia, as well as those of Caria, Cyprus, and Egypt. It may be observed that the row of windmills on the N.W. shore stands on a ridge running parallel with the edge of the sea. It is not improbable that this ridge marks the line of the wall of the ancient city, in which case the foundations uncovered by me may be those of a square tower. The margin of shore at the foot of this ridge has probably been thrown up, and the sandy spit prolonged by deposit from the sea since the time of the ancients. It will be seen by comparing the plan of Rhodes, Plate 4, with the view, Plate 5, that Port Mandraki is separated from the great harbom' by a narrow isthmus at the JST.E. angle of the fortress. Within this angle is a level area, covered with rich vegetable soil, and occupied by gardens. 176 TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES Througli this area, wliicli lies so low that it can only be seen from the battlements, it is supposed that a canal formerly led, connecting the great harbour with Port Mandraki. From Strabo's description of the arsenals and dockyards at Rhodes, it may be inferred that there were interior basins, where galleys were built and refitted, and which probably were screened from observation by high walls. The level ground between Port Mandraki and the larger harbour may have served for such a basin. Between the tower of De NaiUac and St. Catharine's gate, a small mole runs across the great harbour, behind which caiques are moored in shahow water. This mole may mark the ancient commencement of an inner basin. The mole, at the extremity of which stands the tower of St. Nicholas, has been an Hehenic work. The lowest covu-ses of the original masonry remain in several places undisturbed on the native rock, which has been cut in horizontal beds to receive them. At the end of the mole, enormous blocks from the ancient breakwater lie scattered about. Two of these are still in position, one above the other. As the celebrated bronze Colossus was, doubtless, a conspicuous sea-mark, if not actiially used as a Pharos, my first impression on seeing these immense blocks was that they were the remains of its pedestal, and that it stood where the fort of St. Nicholas now stands. This opinion, suggested originally to my mind by the aspect of r ^.^^r g— — ^ —--TV. ...I. ^ I I r^.^ ^^ i" ■ -■ n ;^-^Jfe"V3.ry RHODES. DE NAILLAC TOWER. .;^o3idon,.Bihliolije by a spindle, po'xa. A lump of clay having been placed on the upper disk is fashioned as it revolves by a wooden lathe held in the hand. On a Greek IN THE LEVANT. 317 cup in the Britisli Museum a potter is represented at work witli a similar wlieel.^^^ After tlie shape lias been thus formed, the handles are put on when re- quired, and the ware is left to dry in the sun tiU it hardens. It is then baked in a fui'nace for a whole day. All the modern Greek pottery which I have seen is of a very coarse kind, though in many islands the ancient shapes of the amphora, and other larger vases are stUl retained, with little deviation. This is particularly the case at Rhodes. The fine tough clay used by the ancients is either unknown or the process by which it was tempered and wrought to such tenacity is no longer understood: glazing is seldom employed. Manjr of the ancient names of vases are still retained. At Calymnos saucers are called TTivaxta, and large pails for milk, df'[xsyot, from apjas'yto, the Calymuiote corruption of d[j.i7\-yto, " to milk." On the shore at Linari is a harboui' formed by a small bay. Here I saw a column of blue marble, inscribed with a dedication by the people of Calymnos to the emperor Claudius, styled Saviour and Bene- factor of the island.^''" North of Linari and opposite the small island called Telendos is a ruined chm'ch on a lull, wliich contains fi^agments of columns. A temple perhaps stood here ; and a little to the south of this chm'ch is a place called Periboh, planted with vines, where many pieces of ancient marble have been dug up. These remains may mark the site of an ancient city. The channel between the shore and Telendos here is very narrow, and affords good anchorage for large ships. 318 TRAVELS AND D1SC0\1:EIES I crossed ovei* to Telendos, where I found little to interest me. On the shore opposite Calymnos are the ruins of a village, where I noticed in the walls of the houses squared blocks from some ancient edifice. Here are several ruined chui'ches, but I could find in them no inscriptions. A steep mountain rises from the shore, on the summit of which is a mediaeval castle with cisterns. I did not examine this, but my companion, the Greek schoolmaster of Calymnos, assm'ed me that there were no inscriptions there. I was told that on the north side of Telendos is an Hellenic fortress built with very large blocks of stone. This we had not time to examine. Hearing that there were Hellenic tombs at a place called Yathy, BaSu, to the north-east of the town of Calymnos, I visited this spot. The road to it, leaving the old town on the right, leads up a steep mountain- pass to a rocky crest, connecting the mountains Agios Bhas on the right and Milianos on the left. On crossing this ridge, we descended by a road as abrupt as the ascent into a narrow valley, which stiU retains its ancient name Temenia, and where, accord- ing to Eoss, a quantity of silver coins were found some years ago.^*^ This valley is bomided on the N.E. by the moun- tain Parasebaste, which extends across the island in a direction S.E.byN.W. At its eastern extremity the valley of Temenia -nddens into a little plain, extending as far as the sea, where is a small harbom', very suitable for ancient shipping. This plain, the richest part of the island, is called Vathy. It is IN THE LEVANT. 319 planted witli olives and studded with houses, which form a cluster round a metoche, or farm, the property of a church."" Proceeding in a south-eastern direction towards the sea, we came to a plateau rising out of the plain, very similar to that of Damos. On the south, a wall of Hellenic masonry runs contuiuously along the rocky edge of this j^lateau foi" several huudi-ed yards. Within the precinct of this wall is a ruined church dedicated to St. Michael (Taxiarches), and built entnely of Hellenic blocks ; and further on another church. Agios Georgios, where Ross copied a sepul- chral inscription of the time of the Antonines.^'' The whole of this part is called Encremea. In the plain south of the Hellenic wall have been found tombs. Immediately below the southern edge of the platform is the bed of a small stream, crossing which we came to a plam planted with olives. Beyond this plain, to the south, are small natural mounds. The tombs are said to be in a sandy level between these mounds and an old church, called Panagia Calliotissa. In a field close to this chui'ch I found several Helle- nic blocks and a large mortar or basin made of ordinary stone. These remains had been recently dug up. On the shore of the harbom- of Vathy, Ross found ruins of built tombs, most of them vaulted. To the N.W. of Encremea is Castello, where I was told there were Hellenic walls, supposed to be those of a Greek acropolis. I had not time to visit this place. From the number of ancient remains in the valley of Yathy, it is evident that a town must have stood here, probably on the plateau where I 320 TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES remarked the Hellenic wall. Tlie fertility of this valley and the convenience of the harbour of Vathy would account for the choice of this site. Here probably stood one of the three towns in this island mentioned by Pliny."' XXIX. Mytilene, March 20, 1855. At length I have succeeded in getting away fi-om Calymnos, where I was detained so long that I got utterly weary of such a monotonous life. You can- not imagine any isolation more complete than that of an European compelled to sojourn in such an island in winter time. It is something like living at the bottom of a well and seeing the same bit of sky every day. The winter has been an unusually severe one. The house I lived in, though once the residence of a Greek archbishop, was a v^retched squalid barrack with no glass in the windows. The roof being flat and covered with earth, the rain in wet weather dinpped through on to my piUow. There being no fireplace, I could only keep myself warm by cowering over an earthen pan just 8 inches in diameter filled ^Tit\^. charcoal. After standing all day watching my workmen in the field, I was generally obliged to take an active part in the cooking of my o"\vn supper, in which I had the assistance of my trusty Albanian cavass. To obtain evei'y day wholesome food and fuel was IN THE LEVANT. 321 a business requiring mucli foretliouglit and trouble ; and the absolute necessity of exerting myself in order to exist kept my mind fi'om the utter stag- nation into which it would otherwise have fallen, from the extreme monotony and eventless character of the life I led. My communications with the outer world of civilization were carried on liy stray caiques which sometimes wandered about the Archipelago for many days unable to pass Cape Crio, but which ulti- mately succeeded in conveying to me huge packets of letters and newspajaers from Rhodes, containmg the only authentic intelhgence of what was passing in the Crimea which ever reached the island of Calymnos. Christmas and New-year's-day were particularly doleful times to me. These festivals are celebrated by the Greeks twelve days after ours ; and for about a fortnight we had a series of processions and feasts, in which the population take the greatest delight, l)ut which were singularly tiresome to an indifferent spectator. The constant recurrence of festivals, in which perfect idleness is enforced on the whole popidation, made the progress of the excavations very slow. My labourers were anxious to work as many days in the week as they could ; but the Ai^chbishop inti- mated to them one morning through a priest, that they must on no account work on any feast-day, of which there were constantly two in each week. Bread was so dear, that this restriction was a great hardship to the poor. Fasts are kept in Calymnos with extraordinary rigom". When the caique was shipwrecked in which my former letter was sent, T 322 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES two of the passengers were drowned ; the rest, who happened to be Franks, were fished out of the water and brought more dead than alive on shore into the house of a rich Greek merchant. It was bitterly cold December weather, and the Itahan doctor, on being called in to restore the half-drowned sur- vivors, immediately ordered some substantial food to be prepared for them. Their host then observed that, as it was one of the most strict fasts in the whole year, he had the greatest scruple in allowing animal food to be cooked in his house ; but that, as a great favour, he would allow them a broth made of butter stin'ed round in hot water. The feeling that one is alone in a Greek com- munity, who look upon us as heretics, is more de- pressing even than absolute solitude. The sympathy with which certain people in England regard the Eastern Christians is by no means reciprocated by the Greeks, who, if led on by Russia, would be capable of a crusade against "Western Europe. So far as I have observed, wherever Roman Catholics are found isolated in Greek communities, they are more or less exjaosed to insults and annoyances, as non- conformists to the religious discipline of the place. The Italian doctor here diu-ing the last gi'eat fast ventm-ed to eat meat every day. This was an offence not to be forgiven. Stones and pieces of iron were thrown over the wall of his courtyard, with the remark that he might as well eat them as meat in Lent. One of these pieces of iron struck, his wife on the breast ; and the family were kept in such constant fear that the doctor, being the pos- IN THE LEVANT, 323 sessor of a British passport, appealed to me for protection. I had no jurisdiction whatever in the island ; but I did not hesitate to summon the Demarchia to my own house ; and, rather to my sur- prise, they came. I remonstrated with them in very decided language, and told them that, after so much had been done by the "Western powers for the pro- tection of the Christians in the Bast, no one sect of Christians would be permitted to annoy or persecute another, and that religious toleration was the prin- ciple which we were resolved to maintain in the Turkish empire. The sleek primates listened with an air of extreme contrition, and apologized for the insult offei^ed to the Italian doctor, which, they said, had jjeen the work of some boys. I remember, when the Turks at Rhodes last year took to me- nacing the Christians, the same excuse was offered. It is always the children who are put forward on these occasions in the Levant to commence a war of petty insults and annoyances. About the time when this took place, I made another not very agreeable discovery. On my first arrival at Calymnos, I asked the most respect- able inhabitants of the place to recommend me a person as foreman of my workmen. I was ac- cordingly introduced to an individual called Manoli the Cassiote, who, I was assured, was a ti[xios oivB^wTTog, an honourable man, as Antony says of Brutus. Manoli the Cassiote, at the time of my arrival, occupied the distinguished position of cavass, or chief constable of the whole community. He was a man over six feet high, of Herculean Y 2 324 TRAVELS AND DISGOVEEIES frame, and great activity. When lie stood among my workmen, he overtopped them all like Saul, and he surjDassed them in intelligence as much as in bodily stature. He had been much at sea, and had been tossed about the Mediterranean and the Black Sea from Marseilles to Odessa ; every now and then he recounted little romantic bits of his adventurous life, from which I inferred that his Odyssey must have been a singular one, — a suspicion which was further confirmed by the study of his countenance, which to my mind was one of the most diabolical I ever beheld. He was always armed to the teeth with a long gun, a formidable knife, and a brace of pistols. Wlien I first took him into my service, I begged him to prevent any one from visiting the places where I was excavating at such times as work was not going on there. " Make yourself quite easy on that subject," said my fi'iend Manoli; " I have told all the boys that if I catch any of them in our diggings I shall put a ball through them." The quiet way in which he said this, and the profound respect with which all the inhabitants, fi'om the Archbishop downwards, treated him, made me feel that Manoli the Cassiote was no common man ; that he had a mysterious influence in the place, which, so long as it was exerted in my behalf, would be particularly favourable to the success of the expedition. One day, during a temporary cessation of the diggings, I thought of making a visit to the opposite coast of Asia Minor and taking Manoli IN THE LEVANT. 325 witli me. On mentioning this project to one of the highly respectable gentlemen who had recommended him to me, he let out that Manoli could not go quite where he liked about the Tm"kish empire ; that, in fact, having been concerned in a little affair of vendetta some years ago at Cos, he was an outlaw. On making further mquiries, I learnt the particulars of the crime for which he had been so outlawed. It happened that traveUing in Cos about a year ago I slept one night at a wayside house, which stands near the sea-shore at some distance from any village. My host was a lonely old man, \Y\i\\ no companion but a daughter about nineteen years old. I asked if he had no other family, when he told me how, some years ago, while he was absent at Con- stantinople, two Calymniotes, one of whom had been his servant, landed at Cos suddenly in the night, and mm'dered his wife and all his children, except the daughter, who Ijemg then about nine years old hid herself imder a rug. The miu'derers being alarmed at the approach of some neighljom'S, tried to make off before they had time to plunder the house ; and, whether by design or accident, in the confusion of theu' flio-ht one of them shot his accomplice and then escaped. " And what became of him ? " I asked, and was told that he got back to Caljnnnos, that Avhen the Tm'kish police came to arrest him, he concealed himself in the mountains with the connivance of the local authorities ; and that he had remained at Calymnos ever since. I Kttle thought, when I listened to this tale of horror, that one of the perpetrators of the deed 326 TRAVELS AND DISCOVEKIES would one day be in my employ ; but so it was. The murderer wlio escaped in so singadar a manner was Manoli the Cassiote. This very unwelcome discovery explained to me why the chief constable of Calymnos is treated with such profound respect by the authorities and people of his island. He is one of those men who, by a combination of great natural force of character and physical strength, has succeeded in pvitting himself above the law. No one in Calymnos dares take the initiative of bringing him to justice. He is in league with a band of about twenty desperate characters, whom he calls the police of Calymnos, who patrol the streets at night, and take care that nobody commits any act of violence except with the fidl Icnowledge and consent of the head con- stable. Now and then, this fonctionary, finding himself in want of ready money, favours some rich Greek of his acquaintance with a visit, and requests a loan, which, it is hardly necessary to observe, is never refased ; for the consequences of the refusal would be such as few would care to encounter. Last year, about the month of May, Calymnos was suddenly invaded by a band of pupates from Samos, about thu'ty in number. This small party being- well armed, and choosing for the moment of their attack a time when the gTeater part of the male population was absent for the sponge-fishery, sur- prised and captured the lower town in open day, and sacked the houses and magazines of all the richest merchants without meeting with the smallest resistance. Acting on Robin Hood's principle, they invited the poor of Calymnos to a share of IN THE LEVANT. 327 their booty, and then went on their way back to Samos rejoicing. Manoh the Cassiote, when he told me this story, observed, with a grim smile, that such an invasion ought never to have hap- pened, and that the Calymniotes well deserved the loss they sustained for not taking his advice. " I offered," said the head-constable, " to protect the island dmnng the simimer months, on condition of receiving an increase of salary. The primates refused my demand; and see what happened." In Italy, in the 16tli centmy, Manoli the Cas- siote would have made an accomplished bravo ; and in the service of such a man as the Don Roderigo of the Promessi Sposi, would have distinguished himself above his fellows ; for there is in his cha- racter a happy mixture of cunning and audacity. In the Greek revolution he would have been equally renowned as an Archipelago pirate ; for his natviral element is the sea. Living as he does in the midst of a community which is slowly emergiug out of lawlessness and crime into the state of order engendered by regular industry and commercial prosperity, he seems sin- gularly out of place. Every well-disposed and re- spectable person in Oalymnos would be dehghted to get rid of Manoli the Cassiote, because this sort of cut-throat represents that kleftic element which, having once predominated in the Ai'chipelago, is now gradually giving way to civilization ; but nobody has the courage to " bell the cat." It is difficult to find an excuse for this pusil- lanimous fear of one man in a population of 10,000 persons. It may readily be conceived that in the first 328 TKAVELS AND DISCOVERIES instance hatred of tlieii' Turkish rulers led the Caljanniotes to screen a kno^^ATi murderer fi^om justice; but why was it necessary to elect him head-constable, — to invest him with all the outward signs of respectability, to pay him a liigh salary, and to permit him to levy black mail as much as he pleases ? I was told that this is not the only case in which the Calymniotes have deliberately harbom'ed mm-- derers, nor is Calymnos the only place in the Turkish Archipelago where such felons are allowed to dwell in happy impunity. In towns like Rhodes or Mytilene, where Pashas and Consuls reside, the authors of great crimes seldom veutm'e to show in public ; but in the smaller islands and in the seaports of Asia Minor there are generally to be found among the population one or more known mm^derers, who, like Manoli the Cassiote, contrive to maintain a very respectable position in society. It is in vain that the Greeks try to civilize themselves by schools and commerce, so long as they permit this canker of impunished crime to remain in then- communities.^*^ The unpleasant discovery as to the real character of Manoli the Cassiote was made by me at the beginning of the month of February, after he had been a long time in my employ. Immediately afterwards, the old Ionian in whose house I lodged came to me with a face of utter consternation, with the intelligence that the whole allied army was cut off to a man in the Crimea. I had had no letters or newspapers for a whole mouth ; and the last mail had brought me news of IN THE LEVANT. 329 the battle of Inkermann ; so that it was not without a shudder that I received this rumour fi'om my Ionian host. He had drawn me aside fi'om my workmen, so that oiu' conversation might not be overheard ; and fi'om the dismayed expression of his countenance, I inferred that he did not feel at all reassured as to my personal safety if the news were true. I had then a considerable sum of money in my house, and thought that if the people were to rise, depose theu- Tiu'kish Governor, and declare their independence, which they would probably have done had the news been confirmed, it would not be an easy matter to get out of Ca- lymnos in safety. However, I put a bold face on the matter, and assm-ed the Ionian that the news could by no possibility be true, or I should have had an express to announce it from the Consul at Rhodes. As the time di-ew on for bringing the expedition to a close, I found that the quantity of inscriptions and other spoils from the tombs and diggings would form a cargo too bulky to be contained in any caique ; and it was not easy to find a seaworthy ship at Oalymnos to take me and my hardly-earned fi-eight to Ehodes, in a season so uncertain as the vernal equinox. Lord Stratford relieved me from my diflSculty by persuading the Tm'kish Govern- ment to send me a war steamer then stationed ui the Archipelago. Having had notice that I might shortly expect this steamer, I closed my diggings at the Temple of Apollo ; and reser^^ng only a very small party of workmen, made one more ventiu-e in the district of Damos, in a field Ivino- between the church called 330 TKAVELS AND DISCOVERIES Prophet Elia and the Temple of Apollo. My only reason for trying this field was its vicinity to that of Jauni Sconi. I commenced digging in a spot where the outline of two graves might be still distinctly traced on the surface of a footpath. Wliile I was at work, a Greek, whom I had never seen before, came up to me. " I think," he said, " if you dig here " (pointing to one of the graves), "you wiU find something good." I took liis advice; and the workmen had hardly broken the groimd with their pickaxes, before they found a small circular ornament in bronze so finely wrought that I was at once led to ho2Je for some work of art of a better quahty than what I had been discovering. I therefore immediately took the pickaxes fi^om the hands of my workmen, and made them scratch the ground with the small scraping-irons which we were in the habit of using. I very soon found three more of these bronze disks, the handle of a large bronze vase with rich floral ornaments, and lastly, at the very bottom of the grave, but not more than eight inches below the surface, a beautiful bronze gi'oup in high relief, representing Boreas carrying ofi" Oreithyia. This gi'oup forms the subject of plate 15. Boreas is represented with buskins and large wings as a wind-god; Oreithyia seems to be looking back to the world fi'om which she is snatched away. Standing over the grave vdth this group in my hand, I thought of the Eurydice of the foiu'th Georgic : — " luvalidasque tibi tcndens, hcu ! non tua, palmas." »s r BOREAS CARRYING OFF OREITHYIA FROM ERpNXEr . HYDRIA, I/aidar. ,P-jbJ,rJicd by Day 8: Soii.T,irli"to tk; QaceiL (LIMlTEOl ji, IN THE LEVANT. 66 i Two other smaller bronze handles were found with these remains ; and it was evident that the whole had belonged to a large hi/dria of the same metal, the body of which had decayed, all but the mouth, wliicli on account of its greater solidity had not been decomposed. The bronze group had been placed at the lower hisertion of the principal handle. It is in embossed or repousse work, and had been anciently gilt. Wlien I found it, minute portions of gilding were still adhering to the hair of the female figure ; and the earth of the grave, on being sifted, yielded many particles of gold leaf. The composition of this rehef is exceedingly beautiful, the execution rather inferior to the design ; and we miss in it the refine- ment and delicacy of modelling which distingiushes the bronzes of Siris in the British Museum beyond all other works of the same Idnd. However, bronzes in embossed work of a good period are so exceedingly rare that the gi'oup of Boreas and Oreithyia may fairly rank among the most precious objects of this class which have been discovered. Sifting the earth, I found a number of small pearls and other fragments of a necklace. The presence of these remains shows that the grave was that of a female; and the subject of the bronze group was probably selected to commemorate allu- sively the untimely fate of the person in whose grave it was foimd ; just as in ancient sarcophagi we often find repeated the Death of Meleager, the Rape of Proserpine, and other kindred subjects, suitable for the commemoration of the death of the young. On my making this remarkable discovery, the 332 TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES Greeks present congratiilated me with tlie most unfeigned satisfaction, all, except tlie proprietor of the field. He became utterly downcast, and was suddenly troubled with doubts as to the boundaries of liis property ; and when he found on which side of the footpath I intended to pursue my diggings, declared that the ownership of that half of the field had always been a matter of dispute between him and his father-in-law. This statement was evidently an invention of the moment, put forth as the groimd of a lawsuit, in case I discovered a great treasure. How I should have disposed of this imespected difiiculty I know not, but just at this moment a messenger came up from the harbour in hot haste, to tell me that the Turkish steamer which was to take me away had arrived, and that, the anchorage being dangerous, the captain was anxious that I woidd embark as soon as possible. Here was an end of all my excavations, just at the moment when I seemed to have hit upon the track of a more promising part of the cemetery ; but the opportunity of getting away safely was one which I was not likely to have again ; so I reluctantly left the scene of my last discovery, and embarked with all haste. Before I left Calymnos, the Greek who had re- commended me to dig in that particidar spot waited on me for a hahsliish, and told me that about twenty years ago he opened that very grave in the early morning, and without the permission of the owner, who surprised him at his work. He would not tell me what he had found in it ; but I gathered fi^om TN THE LEVANT. 333 liis manner that it had contained gold ornaments. It would appear, then, that, being interrupted before he had finished his work, he left the few inches of soil at the bottom of the grave \inexplored, and thus missed the prize which I found. Such are the chances of excavation. On lea\dng Calymnos in the Turkish steamer, I took the opportunity of crossing over to the opposite coast, for the purpose of visiting Budrum, which I had long wished to explore. The steamer took us rapidly across to the Asiatic shore ; and after having been so long accustomed to the noisy streets of Calymnos, thronged with Greeks and pigs, it seemed strange to find myself in the stillness and seclusion of the picturesque old Turkish town, which stands on the site of Hali- carnassus. I was very kindly received by the authorities at Budinmi, and an application to see the interior of the castle was instantly assented to. This castle stands on a peninsula forming one side of the harbom% and is a fine specimen of military architectm"e in the 15th century. It is well known that it was built by the Knights of St. John out of the ruins of the Mausoleum ; and that twelve slabs of fi'ieze fi'om that famous mom;ment were extracted fi-om its walls and sent to the British Museum in 1846, an acquisition for which the public is indebted to the influence of Lord Stratford de Kedcliffe with the Porte, and not less to the zeal and enthusiasm with which he has always promoted archfeological researches in the Levant for the benefit of the National Collec- tion of Scidptm^e and Antiquities. 334 TRAVELS AND DISCOVEBIES In my Memoir on the Mausoleum, in 1846,"^ I have expressed the hope that a careful examination of the castle might lead to the discovery of more sculptures of the Mausoleum built into the -walls. I have never ceased to entertain this hope ; l)ut, since my arrival in Tiu-key, various circumstances have prevented me from visiting Budrmn tiU this year. It was with a feeling of eager curiosity that I passed over the old drawbridges, once so jealoiisly guarded, into the interior of this celebrated fortress. Very few travellers had ever enjoyed this privilege before, — indeed, there is a story that an adventm-ous Englishman once obtained a firman at Constan- tinople authorizing him to visit the castle ; but that on presenting it at Budinim to the command- ant, he got a hint that the firman only authorized his entry into the castle, but said nothing about his exit. On walking round the ramparts on the side overlooking the harbour, I made a sudden halt. "VVliat I saw was so surprising that I could hardly believe the evidence of my own eyes. In the embattled wall, between the embrasures, was the head and forehand of a colossal lion, in white marble, biiilt into the masonry and looking towards the interior of the castle. I saw at a o-lance that this lion was the work of a Greek chisel, and that it belonged to the finest period of ancient art. There could be but one mode of accoimting for its presence in the castle, — the supposition that it originally formed part of the Mausoleum. On looking over the battlements, I saw in the face of the wall below, five other Uons, inserted at intervals as ornaments, all of the finest white marble; and IN THE LEVANT. 335 in another part of the castle two more, placed on each side of an escutcheon as supporters. On making this most interesting discovery, I felt, as you may suppose, much siirprise that these hons had never, to my knowledge, been noticed by any of the English travellers who had visited Budrum. The reliefs in the walls of the castle were drawn in situ by Dalton in the last century, and by Captain Devereux a few years back ;"' and the gentlemen charged with the removal of these pieces of frieze in 1846 were engaged in that operation for a whole month, dmnug which time they must have had the 336 TEAVELS AND DISCOVEKIES, ETC. opportunity of seeing these lions every clay. Wlietlier tliey supposed tliem to be mediaeval or Turkish I cannot say, but they seem to have considered these sculjDtures of too little account to be worth drawing public attention to. On refeiTing to Boss's travels, I found that he had not failed to observe these lions on his visit to Budrum, and though he only got a distant view of them from a boat, at once guessed that they belonged to the Mausoleum. On leaving Budrum, I took the first opportunity of reporting this dis- covery to Lord Stratford, and I have no doubt that he will take advantage of the first favourable occa- sion to obtain a firman from the Porte. From Budrum we returned to Mytilene, anchoring on our way at Chesmah, opposite Scio, where I inquired for coins of the neighbouring city of Erythree, but without success. We arrived at ovir destination after a very pros- perous voyage. It was fortunate that we had fine weather the whole way ; for, as I had no means of packing the inscriptions at Calymnos, they were stowed away in the hold of the ship like so miich ballast. APPENDIX, A TOUR IN LYCIA BY ME. D. E. COLNAGHI. Thursday, March IG, ISJi. — Accompanied Ly Mr. A. Berg, left Rhodes this evening in a sailing vessel for Castel Rosso, on our way to Lycia. A favourable breeze carried us on briskly, so that we soon left the moonlit towers and walls of the old town behind us. Castel Rosso, the ancient Megiste, is a small island, situated about sixty miles east of Rhodes, and very near the coast of Asia Minor. Tlie town is placed partly on a promontory, which juts out into the sea, and partly at the end of the bay formed by this cape and the opposite coast of Asia. On the summit of the promontory is a fine old castle built of a red stone, a memorial of the time when the Knights of Rhodes possessed the island. The houses of the modern town are mostly built of the same red stone, and present a very jjicturesque appearance. The poptrlation of the island is from six to seven thousand. The men are nearly all sailors, and a fail- number of vessels belong to the island. Though rich and pro.sperous, the Casteloriziotes bear a bad character, and are noted pirates. The island, which is about 18 miles in circumference, is very barren, being formed of rugged limestone mountains. The only water the inhabitants drink is collected in cisterns outside the town. Ou the mountain side, by the harbour, is a small Doric rock tomb. I walked to the top of the moimtain behind the town. On the summit are two or three Greek chapels, and the remains of a mediasval fortress. To the left of the fortress are the remains of some Hellenic walls, composed of lai'ge and beautifully squared blocks of limestone. The ruins seem to form the corner tower of a walled eKce(7i?c/ the rest of the building is buried under a mound of earth. There are several cisterns within these fortifica- tions, and a well, the only one on the island. I now crossed the mountain ridge, and descending between two hills into a small Z 338 APPENDIX. valley, found a small modiiieval tower, now used as a cliapel. In a valley beyond tliLs were some carefully squared Hellenic blocks, near which is a monasteiy. We then rounded the hUl. On the plain were several ancient blocks, and by tlie mountain side the remains of a built tomb for two people. It must have been a loftj' structure, but, even while I was there, some boys were engaged in breaking up the blocks and carrying them away for some more modern buUding. Saturday, IMi. — From Castel Rosso to Antiphellus (Antiphilo) is a pleasant sail across a land-locked bay. Before ns rose the tine mountainous coast of Asia Minor, with the beautiful bays of Vathy (the deep) and Sevedo ; behind us were the rocky mountains- of Castel Rosso. As we passed on, we made out first the ruins of the theatre, then some Hellenic walls, and as we ueared the shore gi'oups of sarcophagi were visible. The modern village of Antiphilo consists of a few cottages and storehouses for the Valonea which is brought down for exporta- tion from the forest of CEnium. The ancient ruins consist of the theatre, which is of Hellenic ai-chitecture, and contains twenty-six rows of well-finisbed seats. It is built of large squared blocks of limestone well titted together, and has no iwosceidum.. Large lime- stone sarcojjhagi are scattered all over the valley : sometimes they are hewn out of the rock itself The only ornament on them is a square tablet with a Greek inscrijjtion, setting forth the name and titles of the deceased, whose bones have long since been scat- tered to the winds, for all these sarcophagi have been broken open. On the side of the hill facing the sea are two rock tombs — one is square, and entirely hewn out of the rock. On either side, as you enter the tomb, is the couch for the dead, liavmg an ornament in bas-relief round the recess. At the head of the tomb is a frieze of little figures about (i inches high, holding each other's hands. The other tomb Ls cut out in the ordinary Lycian style, with a pro- jecting roof The rock is cut so a.s to I'epresent a beam sup- ported on logs of wood, an imitation, jwobably, of the ordinary houses of the period. The houses of the modern peasants, in many instances, are built on the same plan. Below, on the front of the tomb, panels are cut in the rock with projecting mullionscni either side. On this tomb is an inscription in Lycian as well as Greek. In the valley near Port Vathy are two more tombs ; the largest of Ionic, the second of Lycian character. To the east of the modern village are other groups of sarcophagi in picturesque posi- APPENDIX. 339 tions, ami, where the rock i)ermits, a tomb is hollowed out. One sarcophagus towers above the rest : it is of limestone, supjiorted on a hollow jiedestal, on which is a long Lycian inscription. The sarcophagus is j^liiin, except at either side, where it is jianellcd. In the panels of the lid are bas-reliefs. The knobs, which arc usually left on the lids of sarcophagi, are here sculjitured into lions' heads. There is a fine gi'oiip of rock tombs on the mountain behind the village. One has an arched roof, and has a Gothic look ; the front is cut into panels. A Roman and a Lycian inscription are cut over the portal, but they ha-\-e no connec- tion the one with the other. From this point the -view is magniticent : across the bay rises the rock of Castel Rosso ; on the right, surrounded by lofty mountains covered with dark green shiiibs, lies Port Vathy ; on the low hills below are tin; I'ock tombs, the theatre, and picturesque gi'oups of sarcophagi ; i>n the left the promontory which forms Sevedo Bay sweeps boldly round. Tuesday, 'list. — From Antiphellus to CyaueK is a ride of abuut seven or eight hours. The road leads in an ca.sterly dii-ection over the mountain behind the village. The vegetation in the valleys and ra^dnes we psissed wa,s luxuriant, but the mountains rocky and barren. The country soon becomes more open, and we passed several encampments of Ymiiks, or nomad Turks. They live in tents formed of bent t'wigs covered with skins, matting, or branches, or else in little wooden huts raised on poles above the ground, and with a door about 2 feet high, through which they manage to creep. They encamp in the ^vinter in the valleys, and in summer remove with their flocks and herds to the moiuitains. They seem a sim])le and hospitable people. The women do not veil their faces, but wear a loose cloth veil wliirli lalls on the shoulders over a liigli turljan. Sometimes this veil is tucked roimd the face under the chin a,s a jirotection against the Sim. At the end of a valley about three hours from Antiphilo we found a single sarcoiihagus, with a Greek inscription much defaced. Crossing a low hUl, and passing two cisterns, we soon reached the end of the moimtain. Below us lay an imm ense fertile plain, and beyond it moimtain rose above mountain, the highest peaks of which were thickly covered mth snow. We descended part of the way down the mountaili, but, instead of coming to the plain, turned off to the east, and 2"iiissed through a small stony valley z 2 340 APPENDIX. separated by a range of hills from the plain. In an open space near this we saw some plain limestone sarcophagi with inscriptions. Hence we descended into a fertile plain, and passed by the village of Sarla, about ten minutes distant from which we observed the rums of a mediaeval buUdiug. We now ascended a small gorge between two hills, with pine trees on either side. This soon opened into a plain, and on a mountain opposite we saw the rains of one of the thi-ee cities of Cyaneae. The fields were covered with a little blue flower, from which the name of Cyanese (Kvavea) may have been derived. Jaghu is a small village situated in a little valley beneath the ruined city, where we halted. Wednesday, 22nd. — From Jaghu the road to Cyaneaj is by a steep and stony momitain path. In parts the road is ancient, and, half-way uji, cut in the rock, on the right hand side of the path- way, is a small bas-relief rejjresenting two groups of horses. In the upper division are two standing still ; in the lower, one gallop- ing towards another standing still. This bas-relief is much defaced. There are three rock tunibs — mere holes cut in tlie rock just above this bas-relief A little further on we came to a group of sarco- phagi of the Roman period. One of them is much ornamented ; the lid is cut so as to repi'esent overlapping leaves. In a few minutes more we reached the walls of the city, which are for the most part Byzantine or mediieval. The foundations of the houses and the dii-ections of some of the streets of the old city can still be made out, though the whole is thickly overgi'own with brushwood. There are some large vaulted buildings, and the walls and doors of temples formed of large blocks of limestone beautifully squared. One gateway is very beautiful, ornamented with a rich pattern of the Roman pei-iod. The gi-ound is strewn with columns fluted and plain, dentils, and fragments of all kinds, including one or two inscriptions. None of the ruins inside the city walls appear to be of earlier date than the Roman empire. Outside the city gates on the north side of the hUl the walls are jsartly of Hellenic masonry. On a lower hill is a long street of tombs, with sarcophagi pic- tm'esquely jilaced in the midst of brushwood. Here are also the ruins of some large public buildings. The theatre is situated on the south face of the lower hill ; it is of Greek form, and measures 1 G5 feet in diameter ; there are twenty -four rows of seats, twelve above tiie diazoma, ten are visible below it. On the perpendicular and rocky side of the city hill which faces the south are many rock tombs. Among them a grouji of three APrENPix. 341 together Ls remarkable. They consist of a square toml) witli a projecting front between two arched tombs ; the rock out of whicli tliey are cut is painted blue and red. Close to these is a rock tomb and sarcophagus. The tomb is a square one, and is cut out of the solid rock ; the sarcophagus is placed on it. lu the panels of the lid are bas-reliefs, on one side a draped male figure seated, on the other a draped female figure with a girl standing before her and holding her by the hand. The knobs on the roof are sculptured into lions' heads. A little to the right, below these, is a very fine Ionic tomb, cut in the red limestone. It consists of a, portico surmoimted by a pediment, supported in the centre by a gi-aceful Ionic colunm. The front inside the portico is panelled in the usual way. On the architrave above the door is a long and well preserved Greek inscriptiim of a good period. Above the tomb is a small sarcophagus. Friday, '2Uh. — From Jaghu to Deriaghassy,"' at the mouth of the Dembra Gorge, the road leads over the mountains in an easterly direction ; the fields at first covered with the little blue flowers we had observed on approaching Cyauea\ In about two hoiu's and a half we readied the end of tlie mountains on tins side, and began to descend into a magnificent plain, tlirougli whieli ;i silver river wound its way ; on its banks fine myrtles and oleanders were growmg. Beyond, the dai'k and stern-looking mountains in the distance formed a fine contrast \\dth this i-icli jilain. In about three hovirs from the top of the mountain, and having crossed the river, which was butli \vide and deep, we reached the water-mill where we intended to take up our quarters. The cathedral at Deriagha-ssy is a fine building of Byzantine architecture, and rises in solitary grandeur from the ]ilain. All the interior decoration is gone, l)ut the walls remain, and the plan of the church is still j'lei'fect- The porch, the pronaos, the bodv of the church covered with a dome, tlie apsis, and the stairs which led to the women's gallery, may all be traced. Baptisteries of octagon shape stand on the north and south side. An accurate plan of this cathedral is given by Spratfc and Forbes (Lycia, i. p. 105), so I contented myself witli making a, few jihotograj)hs of the interior. On a summit of a lofty mountain at the mouth of the Dembra Gorge are the ruins of a small city. The greater part of the walls * Called Tcliesemay in Spratt's Map of Lycia. 342 APPENDIX. are Byzantine or meclifeval, but there are some remains of Cyclo- pean and Hellenic architecture. The view from the top of the mountain looks clown on one side to the dai-k and gi-aud gorge, on the other across the plain. There are two or three rock tombs on the sides of the mountain, and two rock tombs and a sarcophagus cut out in a point of rock beliind the mill. Tuesday, 28th. — From Deriaghassy we proceeded to Myra, about seven hours' journey, on camels. We passed through the Dembra Gorge ; the liver was too full and rapid to permit of our proceed- ing on horseback. We crossed and re-crossed the stream at least twenty times. The sceneiy was very grand. At one place the mountains are rocky and barren, at another covered with shrubs and trees ; at intervals fine pine-trees lined the path near the river bank. Sometimes the mountains curved in on either side, thus widening the gorge ; at others spurs of the hills stretched out nearly across the narrow I'aATiie. We saw three bears, a mother and two cubs, gently trotting along the side of a barren moun- tain. We halted at a mill near the centre of the gorge, not far from which are some ancient ruin.s. In six hours we reached the end of the defile. A rumed Hellenic watch-tower commands the entrance on the left. We took up our lodgings at the Monasteiy of St. Nicholas, about an hour fui-ther on. In the plain of Myra. It is situated in the centre of a large square, formed of walls com- jiosed of large cushioned blocks of .stone of the Roman period ; each wall Ls about 300 feet in length. Spratt conjectures that this building may have been an agora or market-place. The two gateways face the sea and the ancient port. The monastery for- merly contained the bones of St. Nichola.s, the patron of Greek sailors ; but these relics were taken away by the Russians during the Greek revolution, the Emperor Nicliolas sentling in exchange a portrait of the saint, which is placed in the church and held in due veneration. The old priest who attended to the church, and was well known to travellers, died six months before our arriA-al. The ruins of Myra are most interesting, but ai'e well kno-\\ai. The theatre is situated on the western edge of the plain at the foot of the mountain, and close to a fine group of rock tombs. It is an immense liuildiug, the diameter of which, accordmg to Mr. Cockerell, is 3G0 feet. It is of the Roman period : nearly all the seats are perfectly preserved, and on either side are vaulted entrances, tlu'ougli wliich galleries conducted tlie spectator to tlie body (if tlie Iniikling. Part of i\iti jn'oscenmm is preserved. The ^1 S 'tir/'/tap^. r^AcCrx/ M YR A - ROCK TOMi loncbn PoblisKed ty Day & S on, litV!^ to th.e Queen . APPENDIX. 343 doorways liave a rich ornament ronud the architraves and liiitels, of the same character as that on the temple gate at Cyanea\ The cohimu standing at tlie side of the proscenium has a ricli Cormthian capital. The rock toml)s at Myra are divided into two groups, — th(ise by the theatre, and those on the side of tlie mountain leading to the entrance of the Dembra Gorge. The first gi'ouji is very rich — tomb rises above tomb halfway up the mountain side. Some of the tombs have pediments and bas-reliefs, others again are of the simple Lycian form, with projecting roofs, panels, and mullious. (See Plate 16.) One or two stand entirely out from the rock. Inside the portico of a Lirge tomb, called by Spratt " The Lover's Tomb," of the Lycian fIAEI i;ilene is celebrated arc bred. From Batousa we went to Kalloni by the Ereso road, arriving at the ^illage of Acherona at noon. In the afternoon I visited a liridge built across the river Prines, which flows through the plam of Kalloni to the gulf Tlie bridge is about two hours distant fi-om Acherona. It consists of a single arch thrown across the stream ; the width of the arch is nearly 40 feet. The arch is formed of blocks of rough sandstone, which are carefully fitted together without cement. The lower blocks are cut in the inistic style. The vvorkmanship is evidently Eoman, of perhaps about the same date as the aqueduct at Morea. The bridge has been restored in modern times ; the arch is all that remains of the ancient structui'c. Near the bridge is the little chapel of St. Therapon, a medical saint. ■ The country people, when ill, come here with a priest, and remain one or two days. The priest performs a mass, and the APPENDIX. 349 ])atieiit crosses himself abundantly. Wlien lie leaves, lie liaiigs up a shred of his garment on a tree near the chapel, as a token that his malady is left beliind. A little bush close by was quite covered with patches of old clothes. The Turks have the same superstition. Before the chapel is the fragment of a granite column which appears in situ, and near it is a simjile capital. Thursday, 28th, the Holy Thursday of the Greek Church. On this day we saw the Archliishop of Methymna wash the feet of twelve priests, in coinmemoratioii of our Saviour washing tlie feet of the Apostles. This rite, which is called mrri'ipa, is only performed once every seven years. At an early hour in the morning all the nuns from the neighbouring convent had arrived, and crowds of peasants from the villages were continually pouring in, all dressed in their gala clothes. The women from Ereso wore white hoods with crimson liorders, which hung down on their shoulders. In the courtyard of the metrojjolis, or Archbishoji's palace, a stage covered with gieen branches had been erected, and lamps were placed in the four corners : from the centre hung a brass chandelier. At one end was the bishop's throne with a. canopy of roses over his head ; on either side of the platform were six chairs. At the other end, steps led up to the stage. On one side of the courtyard vras a readiiig-desk, on the other a fountain was decked with green boughs to rejirescnt a grotto. In the palace itself, the loreparations were great. Priests were tying candles together with jiarticoloured ribbons ; monks, in blue serge dresses, were rimniug about with gorgeous clerical vestiu'es in their hands. In the passage were a crowd of laity and clergy. The chief psalm-singer of the diocese was in his gloiy, collecting his choir, and directing everybody. When the ajipomted hour, 10 a.m., arrived, there was a general rush into the courtyard. The Reader, Lu a magnificent crimson silk robe, now advanced to the reading-de.sk, accompanied by the Psalm-suiger.s, whose chanting continued throughout the ceremony. Twelve priests, in pairs, attended by two deacons, who held in one hand lighted candles, m the other a censer, advanced from the palace, and took their seats on the stage. They were all dressed in lirilliaiit robes. The abbot of the neighbouring mouasteiy, a portly jsersonage, personated Peter ; a mean, ugly-looking man represented Jud;Ls. He was di-e.ssed in green, and was distinguished from tlie others by being without the lilack jiriest's cap, and only wearing the hood. Last of all came the Ai'chbishop, preceded by three 360 APPENDIX. deacons. He was cb-essed in a magnificent purple satiii robe, riclily embroidered. On bis liead was the round black cap and bLsbop's bood. His Eminence w;is now unrobed by the attendant deacons, and clotbed in more gorgeous garments. First, there was a ricli ]iiirple and gold I'olje in stripes, covered with small flowers. Over this was thrown a lilue satm surplice Avith damasked flowers, bordered with a heavy gold fringe. Gold embroidered gauntlets were fastened round his wrists, and by his side hung a squai'e purse, embroidered with gold on a green gi-ound. Over this he woi-e a white satiu stole with a gold fringe. On either side of his breast was an enamelled miniature, representing a subject from Scripture. His mitre was next placed on his head. It resembles in shape an imjierial cro'W'n, above which is a round red cap, richly embroidered with diamonds and other i)recious stones ; on the top was a diamond cross. The Ai'chbishop was a tine-looking man with a long black beard, and woi-e his gorgeous vestments with a ceitain dignity. The real business of the ceremony now began. A conversation was carried on between the Archbishop and priests, from the New Testament, as between our Saviour and the Apostles. It ended by the Archbishop saying, " I know that one of ye shall betray me." Each priest asked in turn, " Lord, is it I i " The deacons then took oft' the Bishop's stole, and tied an embroidered napkin roimd his waist ; which done, one of them knelt down befoie the representative of St. Peter, with a silver basiu m one hand and a. ewer in the other. He poured a little water over the towel, which the Archbishop, kneeling, held in his hand. His Eminence just wetted the priest's foot, which had h;id a preparatory washing- The priest kissed his mitre. This was I'e^jeated to each in turn. Having resumed his robes, the Ai-chljishop, accompanied by Peter, James, and John, left the platform. The three jjretended t(j fall asleep, and the Bishop went to the gi-otto and prayed, in the words of our Sa'\'iour. He returned thrice to the sleepers, and then said, "Arise, let us be going.'' And so ended the sacred drama. All that remained was to kiss a sacred picture of our Saviour, exhibited by the Archbishop from the platform ; and great w^as the rush of peasants to do this. Both actors and spectators seemed to witness this strange ceremony with the utmost reverence, and all went through theii' parts seriously and with apparent devotion. We returned the same day to Mjiiilene. N T E 8 . 1 Eugrjivcil, C. Va,s«iillo, MouiuuL'nti Antichi nrl gnippo di Malta. Periodo Fcnicio. Valletta, 18-31, p. 17. - In E. Gerhard's Arcliaologische Zeituug, Berlin, 184:8, pp. •jiG-jl), 362-G7. See Archajologia of Soc. Ant. London, xxix. pp. 227-40, where %'iews of these ruins are given. ■' Tacit. HLst. ii. 3. Maximus Tyriiis, DLs.sert. viii. § 8. * Delia Marmora, in Nouvelles Annales de Flustitnt de Cor- respondance Archeologique a Rome, i. p. 18. ' G. Scliaif, in Museum of Classical Antiquities, Loudon, 18-51, i. p. 190, Avhere tliLs statue is engraved. Lebas, Voyage Archeo- logi(jue, moil. tig. " Labordc, Le Parthenon, Paris, 1848, ii. pi. 2,>27. ' Eevue Archeologique Paris, 1844, i. jjI. i. Laliorde, Le Parthenon, ii. pi. 4. ^ Engraved in the Moiiunieuti of the Roman Archa?ological IiLstitute, iv. pi. 44. Annali dell' Inst. Arch. Eom. 1847, p. 30-3. This statue was found at Teuea, near Corinth. ' E. Gerhard, Sur les jMonumen.s figures existant en Grece. Rome, 1837. '" See 1113" remaihs on these coins. Numismatic Chronicle, 1854, p. 29. " For a fuller account of the Amphiara'ioii, see Transactions of the Royal Society of Literature, New Series, v. ]ip. 107-52; Dr. Preller, Oropos und Ampliiaraeion, in Bcrichteu d. k. Sjichsis- chen Gesellschaft d. Wissenschaften, Philol. Hist. Classe. Leijjsig, 1853, pji. 140-88; Eangabe, Antiquites Hellenicjues ; Leake, Noi-thern Greece, iL p. 441. '" Giittling, Neue EheLu. Mus. i. p. IGl. Mure, Tour in Greece, ii. ji. 167. Auuali dell' Inst. Arch. Rom. xvii. p. 1G8. '^ For the tombs at Doganlu, see J. R. Steuart, Description of some Ancient Monuments in Lydia and Phiygia, London, 352 NOTES. 1842, aud other authorities, cited K. O. jMiiller, Handbuch d. Arcliiiologie d. Kunst, ed. Weloker, p. 304. " Zosimus, Hist. ii. 30 seq., 35 seq. " H. E. Dirksen, On the Building Act of the Emperor Zeuo, Museum of Classical Antiquities, i. pp. 305-52. '* Travels of Bertrandon de la Brocquiere (translation by Johnes), Hafod, 1807, p. 220. '" Yon Hammer, Constantinopolis und d. Bosporos, Pesth, 1822, i. p. 385, calls this Kahrije Djamissi, and states that it was built by Justinian and restored by Theodore Metochita, Chancellor of Andronicus I. '' For the history aud topography of Lesbos, see S. L. Plehn, Lesbiacorum Liber, Berol. 1826, au excellent work ; Zander, Beitriige zur Kunde d. Insel Lesbos, Hamb. 1827; Tournefort, Voyage du Levant, Lyons, 1727, ii. pp. 81-87; Pococke, Descrip- tion of the East, London, 1745, ii. pt. 2, pp. 15-21 ; Prokescli von Osteu, Denkwiirdigkeiten aus dem Orient, Stuttgart, 1837, ii. I'p. 771-79, iii. pp. 341-407; Boutau, Memoir sur Meteliu, in the Archives des Missions Scientifiques, Paris, 1856, vol. v. pp. 273-364; InrofiiKuu (.yKwfiiov ti'iq vljaov Aiafiov, by Stavraki Anagnostes, Sm3'rna, 1850. This last work, written by a native of Lesbos, contains some bad poetry in praise of the island, and a list of its villages, with occasional information about the antiquities. '" Strabo, xiii. p. 617. Diodor. xui. 79. Longus, Pastoral. I. init. '"' As for instance, Cnidus, Halicaruassus, Myndus. See Thucyd. i. 7. ■' Strabo, xiii. p. 617. "■ Ai-Lstotle. Thucyd. iii. 4, wpfiovy ir -i) MaXt'a -pot Bopcav tT]q -uXtuic. Cf. (j, ibid., and Grote, History of Greece, vi. p. 305, note 1. -' Plutarch, Vit. Pomp. 42. Longus, Pastor., init. -* Vitruv. i. 6. •^' Cic. contr. Eull. ii. IG. -'' Such towers were probably used in the Greek islands from an early pei'iod. In Audros is a round tower certainly of the Hel- lenic period, with five stories above a chamber in the basement, a view of which is gi\-en in the folio plates to Lebas' Voyage Archeologique. Sec the description of it, L. Ross, Eeisen auf d. Griech. Inselu, ii. p. 13. There is a similar one in Naxos {ibid. p. 43). '" Bijckh, Corpus luscript. Gr£ec. Nos. 2172-4. NOTES. 353 "^ Compare the Atlieuiau dcdicaticm to tLe Nymjjhs by the TrXvi'elc, Buckh, Corp. Inscrijit. No. 455. "'■' Xenophon, Hist. Grsec. i. 6. '" Thucyd. iii. 3. =' Pococke, ii. pt. 2, p. 15. Bockh, C. I. No. 2182. Pkhn, p. 218. ^- In the Dionj'siac theatre at Athens several rows of chairs inscribed with the names of chief magistrates and jiriests liave been recently discovered ; casts of two of these may be seen in the Elgin Room of the British Museum. See also Biickh, C. I. 5-308, 53G9, for the inscriptions in the theatre at SjTacuse. "■' Suida-s, s. v. Afa/jwitii. Strabo, xiii. p. G17. ^^ See my History of Discoveries at HaUcaruassus, &c. p. 712. ^ ^lian, Var. Hist. ^di. 15. ^ No. 216G. " Strabo, xiii. p. 618. Plin. N. H. v. 31, § 39. ^* See the descrijition of thLs site in M. Boutan's Memou- on Mytilene. See also Prokesch von Osten, Deukwiirdigkeiteu aus dem Orient, iii. p. 350. '"' Ou the return of exiles to Lesbos in the time of Alexander the Great, see Bbckh, C. I. No. 216G; Plehn, pp. 77, 78. ^ Hence in the ancient Dii-aj the formula ifioi Si lima. See my History of Discoveries, p. 723. ■•' Archestrat. ap. Athenseum, iii. p. Ill, F. ^ This wall is described by M. Boutan in his memoir already cited, p. 318. •" Hist. Anim. v. 10, 2, and 13, 10. ■" On thLs law of custom, see a memoir by Mr. Hawkins, in Walpole's Travels in Turkey, London, 1820, p. 392. *^ Homer, Hymn, in Bacchum, 44. Ovid, Met. iii. 582. Apollod. iii. 5, § 3. * Deiotarus is the name of two nilers of Galatia in the 1st century B.C. With the name Allobogiona may be compai-ed Bogodiataros, the name of a Galatian chief (Strabo, xii. p. 567) ; Tolistobogii, one of the three principal tribes of Galatia ; and Phuibagina, the name of a town among the Trocmi in the same province, according to Ptolemy. " Strabo, xiii. p. 617. See the map in Plelm'swork. M. Bou- tan places .lEgiros at Xero Castro, near Parakoila, on the western side of the Gulf of Kalloni, where he found a Greek A'crojjolis, 2 A 354 NOTES. with polygonal masonry. He states that this place is still called iEgiros ; but the situation does not the least correspond with the statement of Strabo that ^giros was between Methymna and Mytilene. ■** In another of these inscriptions a crown is decreed by the tribe ^olis to Ai'istojahanes, son of Aristophon, on account of his public services. There is also mention of a temple of Athene. ■■^ Froissart, ed. Buchon, xiv. p. 52, et seq. Finlay, HLstory of Byzantine and Greek Empires, 1854, p. 573. *° For the coins of this family see B. Kbhne, Memoires de la Societe d'Archeologie et de Niimismatique de St. Petersbourg, iii. p. 475, and iv. p. 110; Pindar und Friedliinder, Beitriige zur Munzkunde, p. 29. ^ In addition to these arms, there is sculptured on a wall, a shield bearing the arms of Gatelusio, impaling the eagle of the Emjiire, with an augmentation in chief too defaced for identifica- tion : two crowned lions are supporters. On another part of the wall are sculptiu'ed the arms of Bembo of Venice. ^^ Engraved Stuart's Athens, iii. pi. 45. '■^ This subject is repeated in the ciuious relief at Paros, engraved K. O. Miiller, Denkmaler d. a. Kunst, ed. Wieseler, Tav. 63, No. 814. ^^ Ai-chaologische Zeitung, 1848, p. 109*. °° This inscription commences 6 MfioQ Kara -xpriff^oi'. The metri- cal lines which follow may therefore be the oi'acle itself '^'^ Transactions of Poyal Society of Literatiu-e, 2nd series, Lon- don, 1847, ii. p. 258. .'' Since these remarks have been written, the site of the hUl above Bournarbashi has been carefully examined by Mr. Calvert, who places here the ancient Gergithos (see his Memou- on the site of Gergithos, Archseological Journal, 1864, p. 48), and also by Dr. Von Hahn, who has made excavations here, and has discovered remains of an ancient acropolis, which he believes to be that of Troy. See his memoir, Die Ausgrabungen auf d. Homer. Per- gamos. Leipzig, 1865. °^ In the former of these inscriptions, Claudius is styled Sodalis Titius, as well as Augustalis. His titles are identical with those in an inscrijjtion from Pola. Henzen, luscript. Latin. Collectio. Turic. 1856, No. 5399. ^" PocOcke, Travels, ii. pt. 2, p. 110. NOTES. 355 "" See Mr. Calvert's Memoir on Opliryninni, Avchfeological Journal, 1860, p. 291. '■' See Antiqnites du Bospliore cimmerien, St. Petersburg, 18o-i, Introduction, p. .37. "- The vases found in the pithoi consisted of the following kinds : — Two-handled drinking-eups, of the shapes called hylil-es and hothones. Flasks for oils and unguents {lekythi and aryhalli). Figures occurred on several vases ; the subjects were, in several cases, Dionysiac. On one of the lekythi was represented a figure driving a higa. In subject and drawing, this vase-picture resembled those of a late period found at Athens. All the cups were turned downwards, their mouths resting on the lower side of the jnthos. The shallow cups contained bones and earth compacted together by pressure. With these vases were found two small bottles of blue glass inlaid with yellow, and a terra-cotta relief, 6J inches high, representing the upper half of a female figui'e, perhaps Aphrodite. On her head is a kind of crown, or tiara, from which a veil hangs down behind, over her shoulders. Round her neck is a necklace ; her hands are placed one on each breast. This terra-cotta is in a good style, but rather carelessly executed. A fragment fi-om a thin marble slab inscribed — nv0A:AnE s^EAiory. ^'■^ In the Villa Albani at Rome is a marble relief, representing the interview between Alexander and Diogenes. It is curious that the pitJws in this relief is represented mended with rivets. ^ It appears from Birch, Hist, of Pottery, i. 188, that similar pithoi were discovered in excavations on the site of old Dai'danus, by Mr. J. Brunton. Many small leh/thi, resembling those at Athens, and some early vases, have likewise been foimd there (ibid. ii. p. 11.5). INIr. Bii-ch states (ibid.) that lehjthi resembling those from Athens have been found at the supposed tomb of Achilles in the Troad. "= N. H. 34, c. 6, § 3G, and ibid. c. 7, § 42, where the number of colossal statues at Rhodes is stated to be 100, not 300, as I have inadvertently cited it in the text. ^° My information resiiecting this head is derived from Mme. Biliotti, the wife of M. C. Biliotti, British Vice-Consul at Scio, who remembers the head on her first arrival at Rhodes. 356 NOTES. "' Thevenot, Voyages dans le Levant, Eng. Transl. 1G87, p. 117, states tliat lie saw this head over the St. Catherine gate, but that, some years before his visit, it had been removed from the gate looking towards the den of the dragon, by which it is to be presumed that he means the Amboise gate. Other travellers state they saw the head over St. John's gate (see A. Berg, Die Insel Ehodus, Braunschweig, 1862, pt. i. j). 90). It is jiossible, therefore, that the head may have been shifted from gate to gate. ^ L. Ross, Inscriptiones Grsecse Ineditw, iii. No. 274. See his Eeisen auf den GriechLsclien Tnseln, iii. p. 84. After the destruction of the church of St. John by an explosion in 1856, this inscription was presented by the Pasha of Rhodes to H.E.H. the Prince of Wales on his visit to Rhodes. "' L. Ross, Reisen, iv. p. 56. ''" A. Berg, Die Insel Rhodus, pt. ii. p. 44. " Ibid. pt. ii. pp. 60, 72. ''"■ Ibid. pt. IL p. 38. ~^ From this inscription it appears that there were two knights of this name about the same period. The one was Tarcopolier in 1500, and died in 1502, as we see by this inscription. The other was Bailiff of Caspe and Cantaniei-a, and also BaUifF of Eagle (in CO. Line.) in 1513. He was sent at the close of the year 1517 into England to entreat aid against the Turks. Having obtained some assistance, he was returning to Rhodes, when he was driven by a tempest back to the coast of England, where he and his followei-s perished in August, 1552. Three original letters from him to Cardinal Wolsey,' in 1517, are preserved in Cotton MSS., Otho, C. ix. " The form AivlowoKiTai in this inscription may be compared with kindred forms, Ross, Inscript. Ined. iii. No. 265. "* The name of this sculptor is not given in the list of Greek artists in H. Brunn's Geschichte. '"^ Guerin, Voyage dans I'ile de Rhodes, Paris, 1856, p. 169. '" Guillelmi Caom-sin, Rhodiorum Vice-Cancellarii, Obsidionis Rhodie Urbis Descriptio, Ulm, 1496, p. 8. Cf Berg, pt. i. p. 56. '* Ross, Reisen, iii. p. 86. '' Ross, Archaokigische Aufsiitze, Leipsig, 18G1, pt. ii. pp. 384-89. *" With these ox-naments may be compared an ear-ring, found NOTES. 357 with Byzantine gold coins in the island of Calymnos, wliicli ia now in the British Museum. " Lucian. Pliilopseud. ed. Lehmann, c. 20. ^^ Boss, Archaologische Aufsjitze, pt. ii. p. 393. 8^ Herod, ii. 182. Pliny, N.H. xix. 1, § 12. Diodoras, v. 58. Strabo, xiv. p. 655. Schol. ad Pindar. Olynip. vii. ed. Btickh, ii. p. 1.59. ^* Ross, Inscriptiones Inedita^, iii. No. 273. ^ Ross, Reisen, iii. p. 73. Hamilton, Travels in Asia Minor, ii. p. 55. Leake, Asia Minor, p. 225, note. "' Ross, Reisen, iv. p. 67, calls this place Giannari ; and in liis map it is erroneously placed near Apolakkia. The name is pronounced Yannathi. *" The name Mesanagros is evidently ficiroyaypoc, a place half- way between the two coasts. Comjsare Mesotopo, tlie name of a village in Mytilene. ^ Compare aKpoXidnc. *^ See the view of this wall, Berg, Rhodus, pt. ii. p. 151, where the ornaments are veiy inaccurately rendered. ^ Birch, Histoi-y of Ancient Pottery, i. p. 252. "' The ruins on the shore are described, Ross, Reisen, iv. p. G2 ; Gucrin, pp. 248-50. "- W. J. Hamilton, Travels, ii. p. 61. Ross, Reisen, ui. ji. 107. Guerin, pp. 261-65. "■' Meursius, Rhodus, p. 85. Hesychius, s. v. op/Bwrfc. " See ante, note 44. '* For the Anerades see Ross, Reisen, iii. p. 45 ; Meursius, Glossarium Gi'cBCO-bai-baiiim, s. v. Nepaceg ; Nymphse, Glossre GriBco-barbarse, aypuirrTh'at, rvj-iipai oi)f io(, I'tpa^Ec opcirol. It appears from G. von Hahn, Albanesische Studien, Jena, 1854, p. 163, that in Albania it is believed that men are sometimes born with tails resembling those of goats or horses. See ibid, on the belief in the ftpoKuXam. Compare Tom-nefort, Voyage du Levant, Lyon, 1727, i. p. 158. ^ In antiquity, one month, three months, and a year, were in like manner periods of mourning. See K. F. Hermann, Lehrbuch d. Griech. Privataltertliiimer, § 39. ="■ Cotton MS. Otho, c. ix. °' For an account of these MSS., see Ross, Reisen, ii. pp. 187, 191 ; Gucriji, Descrijjtion de File de Patmos, Paris, 185C, 358 NOTES. pp. 101-20; Rev. H. O. Coxe, Report to H.M.'s Government on Greek MSS. in Levant, London, 1588. °' Ross, ii. p. 179. ""* Sandys, Travels, London, 161.5, p. 89. ™ Ross, ii. pp. 136, 137. ■""^ On these coins, see Waddington, Re\'iie JSTumismatique, Paris, 1856, p. 61. They were probably struck at Miletus. ^"^ The connection of Calymna with lassos is shown by an inscription, Bockh, C. I. No. 2G71. '^"^ On this title see the authorities cited, K. F. Hermann, Lehrbuch d. Gottesdienstl. Alterthlimer, § 35, n. 17. ^'^ See the remarks on this type of Venus, Smith & Porcher, Discoveries at C3Tene, London, 1864, p. 96. ""^ See my History of the Budrum Expedition, pp. 590-1 ; Waddington, in Re^iie Numismatique, 1856, pp. 53-60. "" For a description and engi'a\-ings of this tholos, see Ross, ArchaologLsche Aiifsatze, pt. ii. pp. 389-93, pi. v. ; Ai-chaologische Zeitung, 1850, jap. 241-44; Reisen, iii. 131, iv. p. 17. Theocr. Id. vii. 6. See Scholiast on this passage. Abeken, Mittelitalien, pp. 190-97. Bunsen, Beschreibung Roms, iii. 1, p. 259, et seq. E. Braun, RuLnen und Mus. Roms, p. 26. Cf Canina, Descr. di Tusc. pi. xiv. for a simUar buUding at Tusculum. ^^ See the reference cited ante, note 56. The subsequent explora- tion of the Necropolis near Kalavarda by Messrs. Biliotti and Salzmann, and the identification of this site with Kamii-os, wiU be noticed in the 2nd volume of this work. '" Ross, Inscript. Ined. iii. No. 277. "^ Transact. Royal Soc. Lit. 2nd series, iii. p. 1. "^ Engi-aved, Berg, Rhodus, ii. p. 109. This relief has been since removed to the Pasha's konak at Rhodes, where I .saw it in 1863. "^ Ross, Inscript. Ined. iii. No. 309. "= Ibid, ii No. 175. "" Ibid. No. 311. Plutarch, Qufest. Gr. 58. "' Now in the British Museum. ^'^ Millingen, Ancient Unedited Monuments, pi. vii. "' Ross, In.script. Ined. iii. No. 303. "" Walpole, Memoirs relating to Turkey, p. 565. '■' Rhodes was celebi'ated in antiquity as the island of serpents, and it is certain that very large snakes have been seen there by 1(18 lOD NOTES. 359 credible witnesses at tlie present clay ; bence, pevliaps, the origin of the legend of tbe dragon. Eoss, Eeisen, iii. pp. D3-95, supposes tbis monster to have been a crocodile brougbt from Egypt in some sbip — an improbable conjecture. '-- For views of this chapel and of the frescoes in the crj-jit, see Eottier, Monumens de Rhodes, pll. o8-G7, c. '*• Now in the British Museum. '-^ Now in the British Museum. ■-^ See T. Wright, Narratives of Sorcery and INIagic, i. p. 170, ii. pp. 90, 100, 161, 211, 283, for instances of this superstition. -^" At the rate of 118 jiiastres to the poiind sterling. ■'■■"' I am glad to state that since these remarks have been written, the Smyrna hospital has been set in order. '"' Eoss, Eeisen, iii. init. ■"" Eoss, EeLsen, iv. ja. 10. 130 Yqj^ Halm, Alban. Studien, p. 150, note, mentions tins a.s an Albanian custom. "^ I am assured by Mr. Alfred Biliotti, British Vice-Consul at Ehodes, and by other credible pei-sons resident in the Archipelago, that they have seen divers descend thii-ty fathoms. I cannot, however, hear of any well-authenticated instance of a diver remaining under water more than two minutes, if as much. See Sjjratt and Forbes, Lycia, ii. p. 125. "" Spratt and Forbes, Lycia, ii. p. 1 27. "' See K. F. Hermann, Lehrbuch d. Gottesd. Alterth. § 19, 18. ■'*' See the remarks on this type of A^enus, Smith and Porcher, Cyrene, ji. 96. ^'^ K. F. Hermann, Lehrbuch d. Griech. Staats Altei-tli. § 142. 130 'pjjjg inscription is now in the British Museum, having been obtained for me by tbe kind intervention of a friend at Calyinnos in 1858. ™ Engraved with two otlier coats, one of which is Quirini of Venice, Eoss, Eeisen, ii. p. 92. "^ Eoss, Inscript. Ined. ii. No. 179. "» Birch, History of Ancient Pottery, i. p. 233. "» Eoss, Inscript. Ined. ii. No. ISO. ^■" These are probably tbe coins noticed bj- Borrell, Numismatic Chronicle, ix. p. 165. '*" For this word, see Leake's Travels in the Morea, i. p. 366, note ; Meursius, Glossarium Grajco-Barbanim, s. v. fiero^wy. 360 NOTES. ^^ Ross, Inscript. Ined. ii. No. 187. '" Pliny, N.H. V. § 3G. ^^ On a visit to Rhodes in 1863, I was glad to hear that ManoU the Cassiote had ceased to reign in Calymnos, and that he had migi-ated to Budnim. Whether his exile was voluutary or decreed by ostracism, I could not learn. "" Classical Museum, v. pp. 170 — 201. ^■^ Views on the Sliores of the Mediterranean, by the Hon. Captain W. B. Devereux, R.N., 18i7. END OF VOL. I. cox iND WIMAN, PBISTEES, GMAT (JCHEIT 5TEBBI, LONDO.t, W.C. <% Q^-9lln^\(a