S^^3^fc;i HE Magic Carpet. B\ EDWARD fflBAHLT DIBDIB, President of Photognip' ypticti Afftdteur 'Hon (iqo3j. LIVERPOOL Hsv;:, ^ PRICE SIXPENCE. The Magic Carpet BY EDWARD EIMBAULT DBDIN, President of the Liverpool Amateur Photographic Association ( iqo2). LIVERPOOL : Hbnuy Young A Sons, 12, SoniH Castle arRKEX. ■^03 Forty numbered and signed' copies, on large and, fine paper (one side only), suitable for illustration : price 2s. Gd. each. PREFACE To the intending reader of this brochure I wish to explain that what it contains was not written for publication in print, nor even for delivery as a lecture sufficient in itself. Once, indeed, when a pei^on entinisted with the relative box of lantem-slides failed to put in an appearance, I made shift to entertain an audience with my unadorned prose and verse, and the kind people sat it out politely, clapping quite heartily when some one proposed and another seconded a vote of thanks. I pitied and honoured them. The only person wearing a dissatisfied expression was a stone-deaf old lady, who came early (with her knitting), and took the middle of the front row so as to see the pictures well. The whole business, however, was depressing : it was like reading a libretto to a company assembled to hear an opera. That is just what this is — a libretto for lantern pictures. It was written some years ago, with two aims — to provide a verbal string upon which to thread a collection of otherwise unrelated photographs, and also to offer to fellow-members of the Livei'pool Amateur Photographic Association an object lesson in the art of lecture makiag, as a small return for all they had taught me in regard to photography. It seemed to me that their pictures were very much better than their lectures: and that it need not be so. That, although the latter must of necessity be auxiliary to the former, they might still show some approach to literary form and finish. My experiment was successful as a lecture, and I hope it has had some influence for good on the writers of other lectures. Mr. Paul Lange — perhaps because he had least to learn from me — has been a particularly generous critic, and some time ago he suggested that the lecture might be made more widely useful by a competition to illustrate it. There is a peculiarly infectious quality in his enthusiasm — he not only makes his colleagues do what he wishes, but he even compels them to think as he does. So, in the event, here is the text of my lecture printed — primarily in order that it may be available for reference by com- petitors for a special prize to be awarded to the best set of not more than forty illustrative slides. To such competitors I make no apology, for I have at least given them a wide range of themes for illustration. To all othei-s I can only say — " Do not forget that this is only a libretto — the more vigorous and versatile your pictorial imagination the better it will seem. At the worst you are in a better case than the stone-deaf lady, who had no other entertainment for more than an hour (besides turning the heel of her stocking) than to watch a very unhappy showman trying to disguise the lack of anything to show; who yet was too polite to get up and go out, for which her name should be writ large in the roll of modern heroines. E. RIMBAULT DIBDIN. The Magic Carpet, When reading faiiy tales to children I have been struck by manifestations of a critical disposition, which I venture to think is new and significant. " But it's only a story: it's not true?" is the portentous juvenile attitude to-day towards the dear old taradiddles which in my boyhood were accepted implicitly. I am certain it never occurred to me that ^sop was a liar because he made animals talk. I have spent many a happy sunlit hour trying to arrange a system of Volapuk with our cat, and hunting in likely places for the magic ring which, you will recollect, enabled the lovely Princess (I forget her name) to understand the talk, and control the services of all the birds. A thing like that would be most useful, and was worth taking any amount of trouble to find. I think there is very little of that sort of thing nowadays. Now, as R. L. Stevenson put it — Now in the elder's seat, We rest with quiet feet ; And from the window bay We watch the children, our successors play. But they play, it seems to me, with a difference : the children of a generation that fell from simple faith in dogma, doubted miracles, and denied literal inspiration, have inherited the blight of scepticism ; and doubt even fairy tales; — an excess of heterodoxy the most dreadful imaginable. Just think how barren must be a child- hood void of faith in the actuality of Hop o" my Thumb, the Sleeping Princess, Aladdin's LamjD, Beauty and the Beast, and Little Red Riding Hood ! It seems scarcely worth while to be such a child ; — it certainly wont be comfortable to be the man of whom he is to be the father. In a world full of such people Poetry will die. Painting will be impossible, and Sculpture ridiculous ; even Music, heavenly maid, will cut a sorry figure. You may observe premonitions of decay already in the imaginative arts. In the days when they were great and glorious it was the thing said that mattered ; now it is the utterance we think about. The poets are become jugglers with words, makers of mosaics in sweet syllables; the painters are concerned about touch, tone and texture; they unite to decry the man as no artist who dares meddle with a story or a moral. As for the musicians : well, they at least have a great ideal leader, whose piping they all follow joyously. To what River Weser is he leading them, I wonder? This world is one of compensations, and if, as I fear is the case, civilized man has become so nearly civilized — has gone so far on the way to maturity — that even children are bom with old heads on their shouldei^s — (poor little things!) — the culprit, Science, makes some atonement. Science is killing and dissecting our fairy tales, our credulities, our fearful joy in the unseen, our poetry, our art, our music; — is awakening mankind from the sensuous dreams of youth, and bidding put off childish things and be as men. Yet every day she tells us wonders greater far than the most wonderful inventions of barbarous imagination. What teller of faiiy tales, what inspired poet has ever been able to conceive such marvels as those with which the modem magicians of test-tube, crucible, microscope and battery, have filled the life of this century? That entertaining fabulist, Edgar Allan Poe, wrote a quaint fantasy, in which the fair Scheherazade, on the one thousand and second night of her precarious married life, continued the adventures of Sinbad. She told her husband how that Ancient Mariner set out once more on his travels, in what is described as a terrific monster of the deep, but was, of course, a steamboat. He saw all sorts of marvels, easily recognisable as commonplaces of modern life ; and, as poor Scheherazade proceeded with her recital, his Majesty grew more and more impatient. Once only she slipt into a comfortable lie about a continent supported entirely on the back of a sky-blue cow, with four hundred horns, — and that nearly saved the situation. Schahriar exclaimed, " that, now, I believe, because T have read something of the kind in a hook." But she dropt back into the tinith, with the result that her justly enraged lord and master remembered his long-defeiTed vow, said his moming prayei-s like the good Mussulman that he was, and bade her get up at once and prepare her swan-like neck for the customary bowstring. This chance reference to the Arabian Nights' Enter- tainments brings me to my text, which is taken from the pleasant tale of Prince Ahmed and the Fairy Pari Banou. You doubtless remember the story of that other Sultan of India, whose three sons all fell in love with their beauteous cousin, the Princess Nouronnihar. As the old gentleman could not make up his mind which of them was to have her (the lady does not seem to have been consulted), he sent the youths off upon their travels, promising that whichever should bring back to him as a gift the most extraordinary rarity, should have the lady. I dont propose to weary you with the remarkable experiences of the travellers, as they wandered under tropic skies : time does not permit, for your Arabian storyteller is never in any huriy. At last, returning with their presents, they met by appointment. Prince Houssain produced a carpet capable of carrying him, or anyone else, instantaneously wherever he might desire to go. Ali's gift was an ivory tube, which enabled you to see anything you "washed, no matter how distant. Prince Houssain, by way of test, at once clapped the tube to his eye, and (somewhat indiscreetly) desired to see the Princess. With a sudden cry of dismay he let it fall. "Whatever is the matter?" exclaimed Ahmed. "Is another wooer taking advantage of our absence?" asked Ali. "Brothers! " cried Houssain, "it is indeed another and an irresistible wooer that is with her : the delight of our eyes is at the point of death. The physicians have given her up, and professional weeping women have already been called in, and are seated, howling, all round the room!" " I'm very pleased to hear it." said Ahmed. His brothers stared. " Our presents dovetail beautifully," he continued. " Ali's ivorv tube has sho^vn us the sad state of matters, Houssain 's carpet will carry us home in the t\rinkling of an eye ; and, when we are there, ^my present, this apple, will do all the rest. If the Princess has only one breath left, she has but to sniff it, and she will be instantly quite restored." 3 Within three seconds after Ali had spoken, they all came down plump in the sickroom. Ahmed, regardless of the proprieties, ran to the dying Princess before any one could intercept him, and, just as she was giving her very last gasp, clapt the apple to her nose. In five minutes she was sitting up in bed as perky as possible. The point of this digression is in the application. It is Poe's thousand and second night over again. Here is a stoiy which proceeds with the assistance of incredible marvels. Bedouins, sitting round the brazier at night, smoking and listening, believe in every one of them ; we laugh at them as clumsy inventions. Why ? Because modem science has familiarised us vdth things even more wonderful ; and, we see by comparison the childishness of inventions with which barbaric imagina- tion foreshadowed them. The tourist system of the Magic Carpet fails to convince minds familiar with the wonders worked by steam and electricity and photo- graphy; the ivory tube is ousted by the telescope, the microscope, the telegraph, the telephone, the phono- graph, the stethoscope, the spectroscope, the Rontgen Rays. As for the magic apple — if it is not quite equalled by the exceeding marvels of modem medicine and surgeiy — the deficiency seems to be quite supplied by those wonderful patent medicines advertised on every hoarding, any one of which will cure anything whatever. It is an age of many magic carpets ; we shall now chiefly concern ourselves with one, that which is pro- vided by the wonderful science of photography, by means of which we may sit at home in slippered ease, yet see at will any part of the world. If you want to realise what we owe to it, just turn to the files of the best illustrated papers published a generation ago, and compare their purile representations of foreign scenes and events with the pictures which the illustrated papers of to-day produce. Nansen goes into the terrible icy solitudes of the North with a camera, and brings back pictures of wonders hitherto unknown save to the few stron£T and intrepid spirits that dared the dangers and discomforts of exploration. Our troops penetrate to Khartoum or Pretoria, and in a week or two their brilliant deeds are pictured for us. We sit at home and look out omnispectively over all the world ; or rather, that Magic Carpet spread over all the earth's surface, which we call the world. That is the true Magic CaiiDet ; infinitely old, yet ever new ; ever changing, ;'et ever the same ; beautiful, with every variety of beauty, and comprehending likewise all ugliness, which is the convenient term we use to describe those manifestations of beauty we do not understand. A carpet divinely woven in the beginning, in such wise that it may never wear out while mankind endures; woven by the dilligent sunbeams, with air and water for woof, on the bare warp of the earth. The oldest of Greek philosophers taught that all things came in the beginning from water, and another who followed him declared for fire as the originating force. We know now that they were both very much in the right, and that there was really very little difference between them : even the Birkenhead Coi-poration knows that water can be made into inflammable ga-s. How this solid globe came into existence, and what it is, we don't in the least know. We do know, however, that but for water and air, which are as inseparable as genius and self-esteem, — but for water and air (and especially water) this magic carpet that covers the earth's bare boards could not exist. Without it she would be like her melancholy sister, the Lady Moon, who with sad steps wanders eternally throu2:h space — a huge wrinkled cinder, desolate, childless, lifeless; use- less, save as a very imperfect and intermittent night reflector of the sun. and as something appropriately fickle and changeable for lovers to swear by when utter- ing vows of eternal constancy. So it is comfortable to know that the greater part of the earth's surface is covered with water. It is characteristic of our superficial way of lookinsf at things that we describe the sea as barren and desolate; — that is because things don't grow on its upper surface any more than they do on the upper surface of the atmosDheric ocean, on the bottom of which we are crawling about ; but wherever water is you may be sure there is life in abundance, unless air be excluded. 10 Silence aud desolation are to be found only in deserts where rain does not fall and water never comes : wastes of sand and rock, only one degree removed from utter bareness because nowhere is moisture quite absent; wastes across which living creatures cannot travel unless they contrive to can-y w^th them enough of the inestimably precious fluid to supply their needs. The sun pours down his quickening rays in vain, the barren sand remains barren ; even he is not omnipotent. There are surely no deserts in Persia, else we should never have had sun-woi^hip. One is not surprised to find that the complicated theology of Ancient Egypt had its origin in the worship of water, that supreme element, but for which the cradle of arts, of sciences, of civilizations and of religions would have been an undistinguishable strip of the mighty surrounding desert. At least that is what the antiquaries say ; but I don't venture to dogmatise : it is so easy to go astray on museum evidence, like Mr. Pickwick and Mr. Jonathan Oldbuck. When the archaeologists of ten thousand years hence come a-digging in the rubbish-mounds that were England's towTis and villages, they will be apt to think we were water-worshippers; so pious that the deity was laid on to every house by means of pipes, and honoured in every village by the erection of a central pump ! So this magic caqDet, this wonderful visible world of beauty, like our own bodies, consists principally of water. 'WHierever water is, life abounds : a fact which microscopy has made familiar. It is possible for a scientific worker to separate water from all impurities, and, as long as it is isolated from air, to keep it so. But give it the least chance, and the purity is at an end. Its business is the weaving of the Magic Cai-pet, and off some of it goes into the air, which gives the rest micro- organisms in exchange. Tlie merest drop will be found to contain countless vegetable and animal wonders. Even inorganic chemistr}' depends upon water, a fact familiar to photographei^s, whose highly sensitive salts of silver are unaffected by light so long as they are kept in a dry vacuum. "Withdraw water, and immediately all would be dust and ashes. Tlie busy sun is for ever hard at work 11 licking It up; and, if he could only keep ell that he takes, the process of extermination would be a speedy one. He is not able, however, to do so, because, big as he is, he cant be all round the world at once. When he is away, his pretended ally, the air, cools down in its allegiance, clouds form, cold breezes blow, and then down comes the water again, in seething sheets of rain, upon the mountain tops. The sun, like Sisyphus, never relaxes his labours, and never makes any real progress, unless it be in the opposite direction ; for this pei-petual drawing and emptying back of water is the machinery by which rocks are ground down into fertile meadows and plains capable of sustaining life ; by which they are continually being renovated. A river has often been used as a symbol of human life ; it is more — it is the visible embodiment of the wonderful system by which life is made possible. Nothing should appeal more forcibly to our imagina- tion than rivers, unless it be the sea or the clouds, both of which are the world's rivers in other stages of trans- formation. And yet we treat them but cavalierly. We will readily go aside to look approvingly at a cascade, especially if a poet has written some doggrel about it, or a judicious owner has hall-marked the thing by fencing it in and providing a paygate. We will pause on a rustic bridge to enjoy the beauty that always lingers by waterways. Some of us will gladly go for a stretch in a row-boaf, and others will take pleasure in hauntinor runnins: waters with hook and bait at one end of rod and line, and — themselves at the other. But it seldom, if ever, occurs to us to regard a river as a com- plete individuality, worth the trouble of a thorough investigation. We have the excuse that in this country, where the Game Laws do not as yet class property owners as vermin, rivers are usually difficult of access. They are not wide and deep enough to be explored in a boat or canoe ; they are not (except in the severest winter weather) suitable for walking, and the banks are for the most part jealously guarded against trespassers by the fortunate people for whom God especially created ail such beautiful places, and who very naturallv and properly fence off their possessions from contamination, with barbed wire and other convincing arguments. 12 Probably it is for this reason our British rivers and streams are neglected, and are like to remain so until some Stevenson arises to write them into fame. I have had a peculiar regard for waterways ever since, as a small boy, I, like him, first became acquainted with untamed nature while exploring the classic Braid Burn from Morningside up to its first tricklings on the Pentland Slopes. In the life of a boy who has been carefully brought up to walk only on life's dusty beaten tracks, and never even to look over the fence, it is a memorable epoch when, at last, he greatly resolves to be tantalised no longer by his desires; and, making a sudden rush for a padlocked gate, or a gap in the hedge, plunges into the heart of Nature and all the joy of Freedom. Oh, the mingled delight and terror of those early rambles ! Past tiie mad-liouse, where you could often hear the poor maniacs shout, which was delectable ; past the mysterious tunnel, which juvenile tradition declared to be the issue of an underground passage from the distant castle, full of the bony relics of rash explorers ; through the tunnel under the road, so charm- ing because you couldn't help getting your feet wet in transit ; on by the meadows, where the burn meandered with the seeming aimlessness and real purposeful ness of a charming essayist ; on, despite encounters with irate agriculturists, and still more dreaded dogs; past the haunt of the weasels, which had been known to fly at boys' throats and then and there suck out their life- blood ; on over the decayed lockgate, whence our buxom washerwoman, returning from Edinburgh overweighted with soiled linen and bad whisky, had fallen prone among the flags and watercresses, to lie there hopelessly chained down by her burdens until her gudeman, trudging wearily homeward at dusk, espied something whitish and unusual in the bed of the stream, and so happily came to the rescue. On, past the prehistoric Catstane and up to Swanston hamlet, where, if the afore- said washerwoman were at home, she was good for a slice of cold puddintr — pale looking, with more white suetty spots than currants, but to the hungi-y juvenile traveller far, far more delicio is than the costlier puddings of home. On again to the uplands, among the heather 13 and fern and bluebells and bees, and exquisite music of the tinkling rill breaking the perfumed silence. Memories of these halcyon days when the summers were interminable, and evei-y day that the sun shone contained more houx^ than a week does now, have ever since given me a liking for the investigation of rivers and streams ; and if there is any one still sufficiently old- fashioned to go on tramp with knapsack on back, I seriously recommend rivers to his attention. As in most things, it is best to begin at the beginning. Rivers really know more about the art of sightseeing than the best guide book, and if you will only let one take you, as it were, by the hand, it will show you a far more delightful variety of Nature "s wonders than a ticket by the most approved tourist route. You will find it an unsurpassed master of that method of surprises which is the essential device of all the arts that minister to our higher pleasures. High up on the mountains, most likely, far beyond human habitation, on a shoulder just beneath some mighty summit from v\^hich you may look uninter- ruptedly to the far horizon in every direction ; there, in some vast marshy solitude you come to a little runnel of clear cool water trickling out of the mossy rock. It looks a small matter, yet here is the beginning of a great river, which shall carry the rainfall of thousands of square miles dowTi to the sea. As yet the infant scarcely knows what to be at, but presently, if you follow, you will find it chattering briskly along a well- defined channel, sometimes tumbling with a relish over rocks and boulders, or linsferinof in a brigfht translucent pool. As yet there are no trees, no men, no houses; it is only a bare and bleak sheepwalk, where none of these are possible. Yet the blue sky overhead, the w^hite clouds that look so near and travel so fast, the keen, thin, wholesome air, the butterflies and the flowers make the scene beautiful and delightful. You travel on, as yet unrestricted by the property-owner, and enjoy the sensation of stepping and then jumping across a river of note, which will soon defy you to treat it so lightly ; which, ere it reaches the sea, would tax a strong swimmer in the attempt to cross it. Presently, in a 14 comparatively sheltered nook, you see a forlorn roof, weather-beaten and gloomy, the desolate abode of a shepherd. A hardy, stunted tree or two, a flock of geese and probably a noisy dog, announce the fostering presence of man. It is one of the worst traits of the human animal that it cant do without dogs. Of course, a shepherd may be excused ; he probably finds a dog useful, though your Eastern shepherd does very well without one ; but most men keep dogs without such excuse; merely because your dog is a fawning, sycophantic creature, whose sei'\dlity is flattering. The lowest rascal appreciates a dog, but it takes a comparatively high order of intelli- gence to appreciate and enjoy the companionship of a cat ; — that self-contained, self-respecting animal, which, though condescending to associate with man, sometimes even to love him, remains master of his own thoughts, and lives his own life, remote, dignified, inscrutable. I don't say that I go as far as the ancient Egyptians, who worshipped cats, but I am confide at no race can ever be regarded as wholly civilised which tolerates dogs. Well, you get a drink of milk (if you are lucky) from the shepherd, who has perhaps been in time lo keep his cur from biting you ; and then you go on by the stream as it meanders through a wide mountain valley, shut in by a great amphitheatre of slopes and cliffs. The bed of the stream seems a misfit, so tiny is the ribbon of water between the great river and ragged banks that tell tales of winter and spring torrents. Every now and then a tiny tributary adds its driblet to the main stream, and by the time the latter begins in earnest to set about getting dowTi to a lower level, it has quite a respectable volume of water to send over the inevitable cascades in its path. From the wide valley it enters a narrow defile, at the bottom of which it rattles along with much noise and lashing of boulders, amidst which eveiy now and then there is a deep, quiet amber pool, with great clots of froth circling round and round on the surface, and plenty of trout in the depths. This is a country, and we live in an age, poor in poetry. So the chances are that you will not see a Dryad or a water- nymph combing her tresses by the brim, or floating idly 15 in the cool and delightful bath. I once met a game- keeper — a wild, poetical-looking gipsy fellow — in a little- frequented part of Shropshire, where in the midst of a little meadow, no bigger than you could throw a stone across, but green and smooth as a lawn, a stream tumbled in a cascade into a clear, delicious pool. A tiny bathing box stood under the trees close to the water. He found me painting by the pool, and I jocularly asked him where the water-nymphs were to be found. " I will show you," he said. He made me come with him through the wood, up to a rocky summit, which commanded a perfect view of the little amphi- theatre. '■ I came here one afternoon last summer," he said, " and sat down on this knoll with my dog to rest and cool, for it was very hot. When I had filled my pipe and lit it, I looked down to the meadow, and " But, after all, why should I repeat the story? It would be a needless digression. I have unfortunately no means of vouching for its truth ; and, like the Editor of the Wide World MagaziJie, I am very particular upon this point. Perhaps my modern Actaeon was only one of those happy Keats-like souls, for whom the world is all astir with beauty, whose eyes can show them lovely form and colour in all places, for whom white diyads still haunt the twilight mysteiy of the woods, Diana and her sylvan train still go a-hunting in the dewy morning, and the naiads nightly sing to their chorded shells by every river and stream not yet polluted by chemical works and sewage. It was with such vision that my dear friend, the Lost Poet — about whom I am going to write a book some day — at least I like to think I shall — it was with such vision he was endowed, and some such scene he dreamed of when he described — A silent pool, where footsteps never come, Save when at eve the creatures of the wood Steal forth to drink : and in the rosy gloom White sportive Dryads gleam npon the marge, Or plunge to frolic in its cool, still depths. A silent viro^in pool, unkenned by man. Hid from the prying world by crriardian trees, Its waters pure as when from Heav'n they fell, And only mirroring Heaven's depths by day : By night the glittering glory of unnumbered stars. 16 Our mountain torrent now has trees for compaoiy, for the narrow defile offers sufficient shelter. The trackless wastes of the fell-side are exchanged for an ascertainable path, which by imperceptible gradations becomes a regular road. We are now fairly off towards the region of civilisation, though a cottage or two encountered by the way offer little promise of it. The country is still so much the sole projDerty of the sheep that you find them quite at home on the road, and curious, rather than scared, when you encounter them. At last the boundaiy of the God Pans dominion is reached. You reach a bridge — the first fetter symbolical of the river's servitude to man — and beside it is a tiny, miserable-looking chapel. It is pretty sure to be a chapel, not a church, for the church dwells content among men in the plains, where souls to be saved, and tithes to be taken, are more plentiful. Only the eager, discordant asceticism of dissent will be at the unremunerative pains of going into such holes and corners of the earth as this. One wonders where the folk come from to use even so tiny a tabernacle. Yet, to a Sabbath preaching, you will see them trooping over the hills, tramping for miles, eager to partake of the rare social joy of crowding together in a vitiated atmosphere ; the charm of contact with ones fellows; — some perhaps glad to listen to what, for them, is inspired speech upon salient problems of life and after life, over which they have pondered thick-wittedly, but earnestly, for many a silent, solitary hour in sheep-walk, wood, field or meadow. Gradually the road sheers away from the river. Landlords empale the intervening land, and erect notices to remind you that you may not trespass save under penalties dire and deadly. Tliese notices have their uses, for they generally indicate places worth exploration, and very often are reliable indications of some right of way which the landowner is anxious to suppress. Regarded so, they become benefactions in dissfuise, now that unjustly democratic legislation has restricted the Lord of the Manor from the use of such efficient safeguards as mantraps and spring guns. Not that he is altogether defenceless even now. A very I 17 good effect can be produced by a guardian dog of fiery temperament, or an uncontrollable bull put to graze in the field which a public footpath crosses. I met that bull once in Nottinghamshire, and only won the handi- cap race for the stile by a few inches. He had already gored several people ; but as the path saved two miles or more on the way to the railway station, it was still used. The Lord of the Manor was quite hopeful that when three or four more people had been killed or injured the County Council would awake to a sense of its duty, and buy the field at a fancy price. No one deplored the accidents more than he, for his was a finely strung, sensitive nature, and he marvelled at the rank stupidity which made people mn such a risk for so small an advantage. It is astonishing, when you come to think of it. You are not sorry, for man is servant of his appetites, to come to a town just where the river finally gives up the joyousness of childhood, and settles down to the seriousness of married life ; where man, the bridegroom, presents her with a handsome stone arch bridge as wedding ring, and thereafter inflicts on her much degradation and ill-usage. Up-river towns are often quaint old-world places, where the tiresome march of what is called civilisation goes forward with comfortably sluggish incompleteness. The railway station is half a mile or more distant, there are no tramways, telephones, electric lights ; one post a day more than sufiices, and a weekly newspaper amply satisfies the need for intelligence of the outside world. Market day is the crowning glory of the week, and the market hall appropriately arrogates to itself the centre of the town — a quaint old place, often with heavy, oak- framed walls, and the greater part of the ground floor commonly an open colonnade. When it is, the male inhabitants in their hours of ease (which seem to be many) will lurk under this cover, like trout beneath a bank, or a hunted cat under a bookcase. The station has advantages ; it averts sunstroke, it commands a near view of several public houses, as well as of anything that may happen to be going on in the town, and the opportunities for conversation are considerable. 18 If there are any manufactures you will find them nearest the river, whose water-power, wat«r-supply and water-transit occasioned the town being just where it is; and ten to one you will find an important tributaiy joins the main stream just above or below the town. The mention of water-transit reminds me that in many pai-ts of the country the facilities afforded by our rivers have been so extensively and ingeniously supplemented by canals that it is, I believe, possible to pass by inland ways from London to Liverpool, or Bristol to Hull with- out once setting foot on land. Before the days of steam, this syst-em of wat-erways must have been of incalculable value. Now, alas, steam and haste have pushed river and canal into the background as highways for traffic, and their wharves are grass-grown and desert-ed. Canals are not so beautiful as rivei^, yet they have certain charms peculiar to themselves, and it is to be placed to their credit in the estimate of a pilgrim in quest of the picturesque, that they are almost always accessible, being provided w^ith a towpath ; w^hile for a consider- ation you may travel upon them in a house-boat, a form of relaxation which I imagine must be delightful. The motion of such a boat, drawn by a patient horse, is perfection, as you may easily ascertain without going to the considerable expense of chartering one, for in places where the prospects of traffic are good, there are omni- bus boats in which a brief but blissful voyage may be made for a few pence. At our riverside town we find the church near the watei'side, pretty sure to have some charm of architec- tural or antiquarian interest, unless some idiot rector has had it pulled down and rebuilt in the modern want of taste ; or, worse still, has called in a restorer, and let him work his neo-pseudo-gothic devilries upon the time- hallowed pile. Take them all round, our English country churches are delightful ; far more charming than those of any other land. Their quaint weather-beat-en, ivy-mantled exteriors will always have something choice in fonn or ornament to show you ; and the interiors are very museums of characteristic architectural features ; noble columns, a bit of choice old glass, a carved or vaulted roof, a Saxon font, relic of an earlier fane, a 19 grotesquely carved pulpit, or monuments quaint and often remarkable, commemorating, perhaps, some utterly forgotten nonentity, whose epitaph tells you that his immort-al greatness can never suffer eclipse; or, per- chance, some great man, whose name it amazes you to find associated with such a dull town. If our countiy churches are t-o be preferred to those of the Continent, still more so are their churchyards; even when, as is too often the case, they are neglected and unkempt. There you will find oddly carved head- stones, droll mortuary inscriptions (he is a rare wag, your churchyard poet !), grimly barred graves that remind you of the bad old days of Burke and Hare, venerable yew trees whence our lusty forefathers cut their bows in the picturesque old times ; and almost always some beautiful flowers, the fittest ornament of graves. Of course I don't include enamelled iron wreaths and suchlike horroi-s. I am of the same faith as my friend the Lost Poet. This is what he wrote, under the title HIC JACET. No monumental stone Shall mark our darling's grave. The flow'rs that o'er it wave Suffice to make it known : The feet that thither stray- Need not be shown the way. We planted roses there And lilies straight and tall. That tenderly recall How sweet she was, how fair; Their flow'rs that scattered lie. Like her, too early die. When our sad comings cease, No tearless, idle eyes Shall find a carved '' Here Lies " Mocking her perfect peace, ''Tis best to be forgot When Love remembers not. \Yhile we linger, our river, inexorable as Time, is rolling on and on, after paying and taking tribute to and from the impartial townsfolk, who probably use it 20 both as an aqueduct and a sewer, and then wondei' whence their periodical epidemics come. In following it now you must, for the most part, be content with the high road, for we are out of the free hill country. But every now and then you may find a gate unfastened, a gracious road or lane or stile-path that will bring you down to the waterside, and you can take off your knap- sack and sit down in a riverside meadow, or by a ford or a ferry, to listen awhile to the melody of the waters, the rustling voices of the leaves, the singing of birds, the musical buzz of insects and the lowing of cattle — all the innumerable sounds of Nature's symphony ; to which the cloud-frescoed dome of the sky, the flowery meadows, the ample trees, the glittering wavelets and the pui'pling hills contribute infinitely rich orchestral colour. Our river soon settles down, how^ever noisily it starts in life, into a sober, decorous, jog-trot progress ; for the course of a river is just like that of human life. The Lost Poet has a poem — too long to quote — in which he pursues the parallel with many curious turns of fancy ; in which the liver, in human semblance, is born of weeping clouds, while old father Earth laughs and sings for joy at the birth. Soon it is dancing with youthful glee like a human child, freakishly playful, impetuous, fascinating. Then presently it is a maiden, pure, beautiful, shy, demure ; gliding swiftly and eagerly on to more fulness of life. Next the poem takes a melan- choly turn, and, after a space, the poet sees the river emerge from the town ; no longer young, pure, happy and free. Contact with that yahoo, man, has had its inevitable result. On and on she goes, ever older and sadder, till at last slowly and sadly through the tedious, dismal, deathlike slime of a salt-marsh, she reaches the everlasting sea, falls willingly into the Nirvana of its embrace, in which all impurities are washed away and from which she is kist heavenward once more, as fresh and pure as when she fii-st came, the gift of Divine Love to Eai-th. The idea is, of course, fantastic, but it is pretty enough in poetiy, though my prose outline may seem other\N'ise. One episodical idea I particularly like, is that of com- 21 paring tributary streams to children who come prattling into our lives, just when we are in danger of losing touch with all that is freshest and best in the world ; and in so coming, bring the influence of their unsullied youth to rejuvenate us. The infinite variety of nature is nowhere better illustrated than by a river's tribu- taries. Trace them up to their sources, and, just as with children, you will never find two quite alike in character. You have to go to other lands to encounter streams that enter the upper world sensationally as geysers, but almost every other variety is to be found in our own. One will come brawling all the way over rocks and boulders, falling with a roar over successive cascades, or rtishing through mighty chasms and past beetling cliffs. The chasm may be the silent record of a pre-historic earthcjuake, or it may be due merely to the amazing power of water — to the Herculean labours performed by it in weaving the exquisite tissues of the Magic Cai-pet. Give it time and it will excavate mighty canons many miles in length, and constiTict, leagues away, with the dehri-i, vast expanses of bright flower-gemmed meadows. Nay, that is a mere trifle in the stupendous work done by water on the earth's sur- face, for, aided by sun and frost, it has worn down mighty mountain ranges, and will in time w^ear away and carry to the plains, or on to the ocean depths, the Alps and Himalayas, even as it has already reduced to comparatively trifling height the venerable Cambrian range, one of the most ancient, and once one of the highest mountain systems on the face of the earth. When one peeps into the Wonderland opened to the student of geology, it is to find the imagination almost stunned by its revelations. The limestone rocks which a river has been excavating for thousands of years were formed in ocean depths — formed of the remains of minute living creatures, dwellei^s in the sea. Some day, perhaps, millions of years hence, the land may have risen until the river is diverted and its bed is left empty and dry. Still the land will go on rising higher and higher, until at last the remains of the waterwom cliffs are found high and dry on mountain tops, whence sun and frost awid rain Avill once again by gradual 22 denudation carry them down to the rivei-s and the sea, to begin over again the wonderful cycle of change. Another tributaiy of our liver will lead you up to a grim leaden mountain tarn, by whose side there stands, perchance, some pre-historic cross, about whose lichened base bards held their gorsedds, with a solemnity and con- viction that infect you, in spite of their rustic, unbeauti- ful aspect, and the crude simplicity of the ceremonial. Yet another stream, springing in a lovely woodland nook, half hidden in ferns and bushes, comes placidly on by meadow and field, lingeiing awhile in reedy pools, and dallying with many a scene of quiet rustic beauty. As you travel on by stream and river they will shew you the most intimate secrets of country life. The face of Nature as seen from the river bank is quite unlike the aspect she wears when you look at her from a high road — even if you whirl along it on a coach drawn by six horses, with a coachman in a powdered wig. By the water-side she lets you see all that is in her treasure- house. Eveiy season, every month, every day has its new wonders to delight the eye and ear. The birds sing in the branches overhead, the wild four-footed creatures scuriy to their lairs as you pass, the flowers are ever about you, butterflies gleam on eveiy hand, and you can watch the sleek and spotted trout as they quiver in the clear shallows or with sudden splash spring at their prey. By the rivei-side all the pageantiy of all the seasons is enacted for your entertainment, all the real business of mankind, the essential industries of the species, are carried on before you. The ploughman urges his t^ani to prepare the soil for seed, the harrow breaks up the clods left by the ploughshare, and in the cott-age gardens the rustics busily ply Adam's grand old trade. In the spring time, as the poet tells us, a young man's fancy lightly turns t-o thoughts of love, and nowhere is nature more expressively in sympathy with amatoiy dalliance than down in the fresh riverside meadow gemmed with flowers, and musical with the passionat-e calls of mating birds. Now is Corydon's time, and here is his place for pressing his suit on blushing Phyllis. She may be coy and refuse him an answer, but ten to one, when he 23 has passed on disconsolate and angry, you will see her linger to consult the precious oracle of the marguerite; if necessaiy prepared to control the utterances of fate by plucking two petals at once as she munnurs, " Pie loves me, he loves me not, he loves me!" She knows it must come right, for have they not been lovers since the guileless days of childhood? In summer, the time of lusty full-leaved maturity, you see, as you walk by the waterside, the truest wealth of the nation growing towards the harvest, under the benigii influence of rain and sunshine. Already Ihe hay crop is ripe, and in the meadows the swish of scythe and the shaip ring of w^hetstones make pleasant music. Though the season is changed, the young man's fancy (aye, the young maiden's, too) is not; it is ever the season of spring for youth and love. As they stroll homewards from the haytield you may conjecture, if you choose, that the floral oracle has proved true. Down in the river you see the cattle standing as deep as they dare in the water, to baffle the flies, and in the gardens the cottagers now look with satisfied pride at their growing crops, or busy themselves with the bees, to which old Hodge will presently play the rapacious landlord. In the woods the thud of axes and the crash of falling giants are heard, and at the feriy we very probably encounter the carcases of some murdered monarchs of the grove on their way to the sawmill. In the orchards the apples and pears are swelling, the cherries are growing red, and the sheep, glad of the leafy shelter, crop the turf and nibble the windfalls, happily unconscious of the more or less near prospect of a journey some day to a market town, whence they will never return, unless it be as mutton. Under the trees, too, you will find the young folk making pleasant pictures, as they pursue the thousand and one delights of childhood, with as much eagerness as elder folk display in the pursuit of aims; too often much less innocent or profitable than those of happy youth. The summer days fleet by, and all too soon, as you walk through the meadows, you see the reaper at w^ork, sweeping down with impartial scythe, the flowers and the bearded grain. The blossoms of humanity, quite 24 regaidless of the embleiiiatical aspect of his peifonnauce, welcome the hai-vest time with delight, as another oppor- tunity of resuming the delights of the hayfield. Their performances add considerably to the share of the field- mice, the ant« and the birds — those humble gleanei^ who fill their stores amply, with the unconsidered grains that even the human gleaners disregard. As swiftly as may be, the sheaves are bound and gathered in, the farmer keeping a nei^vous eye on the barometer and the clouds, and all working with tremendous energy from early morning to dusk, and even under the golden radiance of the harvest moon. Except for sleep, they scarcely leave the fields, gathering under a hedge-row- to devour hastily the meals the fanner's daughters bring to them. Then when the last sheaves are garnered, the prepara- tions for coming winter begin. Tlie fields are renewed for the crops of another year, firewood is gathered and stored, and presently the frost and snow come to do their appointed work. And mankind as usual makes the best of things, finding new pleasures on the frozen surface of river and pond, with the aid of skates and curling stones ; while for the young folk there is infinitude of delight in snowballing, sliding, making snow men, and rolling mighty snowballs until their tender muscles creak again under the effort of the last push. At all seasons by the waterside, nowadays, you will encounter that aggressive but harmless phenomenon, the peripatetic photographer, or his superior elder brother (very superior in his own estimation) the artist in paint. For each of these, the greatest trouble in the countiy is the juvenile native, who, to the photographer in particular, is endlessly obstructive. The painter can see round him or over him, the camera cannot ; and many are the wiles necessary to circumvent his over- mastering desire to be " took." The solitaiy worker fares worst ; there is safety in numbers. Every now and then your stream will bring you to human haunts, and sliow vou a village, or hamlet, or a single cottage nestling picturesquely on its banks ; and they always turn their best face to the waterside. There is infinite variety of charm about these lowly rural 25 homes, and those that inhabit them ; infinitely pathetic suggestion in the spectacle of an empty, desolate dwel- ling, silently falling to ruins in the midst of a country where the homeless swann in their tens of thousands. It is of interest to notice how the type of dwelling varies in different districts, how it is affected by the nature of the country in which it is built, and also, although less obviously, by the character of the inhabi- tants. In the mountainous districts the type is always more or less severe, which is sufficiently accounted for by the abundance of stone, the scarcity of wood, and th© unfavourable nature of the climate for external display, either architectural or vegetable. In the valleys and plains the presence of timber makes itself felt. I don't know how it is that the rustic architecture of England should almost everywhere be touched with a sense of beauty, remarkable in the edifices of a race by no means distinguished for poetical sensibility. It may be in the people, it may be due to the climate, or, perchance, it is the visible expression of that sentiment so strong in our race, which has its popular expression in the line, " Be it ever so humble there's no place like home !" The beauty, however, is to a great extent a thing of the past. Tlie modern Englishman when he builds, has as his ideal that hideous '^ brick box with a slate lid," which was the particular horror of my fine old friend William Morris. Then, too, in your riverside rambles there are all the four-footed sei^ants of man — the aphides of his ant-like industry — to share your observation of inanimate nature. The cattle grazing or chewing the cud in the meadows furaish agreeable notes of colour and fomi to vary the lush sweeps of greenery; agreeable only if there be no ladies of the party. In that case they make a more welcome picture when seen in safety over a five-barred gate that commands the farmyard pond. The sheep, too, are picturesque, and are less likely to give cause of offence, and a herd of Irish nightingales will often supply a little comic relief. That obsolescent quadruped, which will soon be represented only in museums and remem- bered by etymologists because its name is used in indicating the power of various sorts of traction engines, 26 is still the most picturesque object of our fields and roads — a noble and beautiful creature, although it has the fatal drawback of not drawing its motive force from a benzine tank. I dare not linger any longer, or I might go on with a pertinacity equal to that of Tennyson's " Brook." The way is long, the shadow of twilight is at hand, and we must hasten onward, not pausing even to watch the evening romps of the young folk on the village green, but with single heart addressing ourselves to the tedious, toilsome road. Yet at least in this fair land of ours it is sure to lead us by many scenes of rare beauty ; and, as the shadows lengthen and our feet grow weary, nature helps us along by growing more and more lovely, with a beauty still beyond the scope of photography. And if the night fall before the goal is reached, we are com- pensated by new wonders of loveliness as we toil onwards under the silvern glitter of the moon ; or, looking upwards, see with reverent delight " The million-lilied sti;eam of night, Wide in ethereal meadows flow." The river as it widens and deepens still opens up new scenes to delight us. In one place we find it roaring down impassable rapids in which no boat could live a moment: a manifestation of Nature's power, which reaches its most awe-compelling expression in the famous Niagara rapids. Presently all is calm again, and the river glides smoothly under an exquisite canopy of foliage, past flowery meadows or antiquated waterside gardens, down whose worn and weather-stained stairways one would not be surprised to see the melancholy Mariana pace, on suicide intent. Anon we come to a venerable castle, stately relic of a byegone time, whose grim old keep becomes a thing of beauty when mirrored on the glassy surface of the water. Lordly mansions lie far back from the river's verge, nestling among sheltering trees, and set in parks full of cunningly ordered beauty of form and colour, where the proud peacock struts, and the trim greensward is varied with spaces untrimmed and unshorn, whose greenery is gemmed with the starry blossoms of ox-daisies and other wild flowers. Sometimes, especially near the towns, the mansions ajid villas are close to th© margin of tho water, 27 and look delightfully snug and rheumatic. Of course, you come to other towns; for our towns are strung like beads upon the rivers — the beads sometimes very inferior to the string. Sometimes it will be a walled city with a museum, Roman remains, and all that sort of thing so dear to Mr. Pickwick ; sometimes a garrison town full of redcoats and petticoats; sometimes a cathedral town full of black coats, and, yes, there are petticoats there, too ! Sometimes you mil have all three delight- fully rolled into one. We have dallied so long by rivers and streams that there is little space left in which to refer to those ponds, lakes and tarns: all the quiet spaces of water that ever and anon diversify the courses of rivers, and which the Lost Poet prettily compares to those quiet hajDpy inter- vals of rest and enjoyment that now and then come to vary the sordid hurry of life. There is the less need to enlarge on the subject, because we are all much more familiar with lakes than with rivers. The tourist people even run cheap excursions to them, and the tripper goes in his thousands and tens of thousands. This is comprehensible enough ; not only are lakes so large that even the feeblest aesthetic sense can scarcely fail to be impressed, but their size prohibits the land monopolist from shutting out his humbler fellows. I am conscious, too, that but little has been said of the stem season of winter, when water undergoes wondrous transformations, when river and pond and lake become as sheets of glass, and, instead of the swallows, that have fled to sunnier regions, agile skaters skim over the surface, and the dews are changed into silver filigree and glistening jewels that make bare boughs and withered leaves beautiful again for a little while with a strange death-like beauty, beyond summer's utmost charm. This is the season when water does some of its most wonderful work — breaking up the clods and renew- ing the soil, to receive and nourish the crops of the coming year, cleaving the rocks with irresistible power, and at times even binding the sea in its fetters. Then, even the mighty estuary, where at last the river meets the sea, is covered with hideous masses of ice, among which the starving gulls hunt eagerly for the garbage 28 of the town, and through which sturdy vessels only force their way amid difficulty and danger. To see the season of winter in all it^ glory we must go to other lands, where the climatic conditions of a great continent, or the rigours of arctic latitudes, pro- duce mai-vels of snow and ice quit« impossible in our equable climate: a climate, by the way, which we must not forget is pleasant to live in, very largely because our islands lie near that great oceanic river, the Gulf Stream, whose mighty current carries tropical wannth far into the Northern Seas, and shields us effectually from the assaults of arctic icebergs and frosts. The rivers of the ocean are mightier and even more wonderful than those of the land, and I would I could do more than pay them the scant tribute of a remark in passing. Wonderful, too, are those solid rivers of the Arctic and Antarctic circles, which carry down the eternal snow and ice of the inscrutable polar regions to the ocean, and discharge great bergs to float sullenly forth in search of dissolution. In all parts of the world the same phenomena are dis- played on a smaller scale in the upper regions of high mountains; as, for instance, in the Alps, where from the zone of eternal snow, there flow down to the valleys, rivers of ice, such as at some remote epoch bound our own bright, genial and populous land in the silence of death and desolation. Ordinary rivers under the influence of a low tempera- ture, often present sufficiently remarkable appearances; so remarkable, indeed, that but for the evidence of photography we would scarcely be able to grasp any conception of them. On the continent of America, where, in our own latitude, the winter frosts are terribly severe, the rivers are for months imprisoned under ice, and at Niagara the most fantastic eccentricities of foim are to be found. Ice is piled in heaps so immense that one exploring them might fancy himself lost in a fairy palace of crystal full of jewelled caves, infinitely beauti- ful. Pictures of them make one think of that strangely fascinating, dream-inspired fragment by Coleridge, in which Alph, the sacred river, ran, Through caverns measureless by man, Down to a sunless sea. 29 The prototype in fact of that river, however, would rather be one of those curious subterranean waterways occasionally found in cretaceous rock formations. The intimate relation between our rivers and the clouds, upon which I have already touched, has a curious illustration in occasional winter formations on the banks of Niagara, of which I have seen pictures; in which the characteristic forais of cumulus clouds are imitated veiy closely by the frozen spray of the cataract. This phenomenon reminds us that in the opinion of meteorologists, all the higher strata of clouds, especially the cirrhus, consist of fine needles of ice. Wonderfully beautiful are the phenomena of winter; yet there are few that desire its coming or regret its departure. We are all devout sun-worshippers at heart, like our ancient ancestors, Druid or otherwise, whose Cyclopean sun-temples are their only memorials; and it is with heartfelt joy that we feel the warm kisses of the west wind, before which the frost vanishes when the season of death passes, and the new springtime appears gloriously on earth, breathing fresh life into all things. Once more, in the world "s round of change, life and hope and gladness are in the air. The past is lost in the ocean of Time, even as the waters of our rivers fall into the sea and are swallowed up ; but it is not annihilation, only a stage in the inevitable universal law of rotation, in virtue of which the life of this globe continues from age to age. The shores of the ocean of Time are ever- more strewn with the wreckage of life, yet ever, as we wander sadly amid the mournful debris, we shall find, if we look aright, the reassuring emblem of Hope. Our friend was in a pessimistic vein when this image presented itself to his mind, and he wrote : — As by Time's sullen sea I went, I wept the wrecks that strewed the strand ; My heart was sore with discontent That life had been so badly planned ; Though short, so dark, so full of pain, That none would crave it o'er again. " Ah, friend," the Optimist replied, " Look up, be cheered, it's wrong to mope : " Amid the wrecks that mark the tide " Behold the emblem of Sweet Hope." I turned to look — 'twas there, ah, yes ! But rusted, broken, valueless ! 30 It would be unkind to say farewell to our Baid while he is in this minor key, and I will venture on one more quotation — a brief one — which will fittingly conclude our desultory ramble by the rivers he loved so well. It is from the introduction to his poem entitled " A vision of the Gods," in which Pan, the embodiment of Nature, sits by the river of Time, and watches all the strange gods of man's intellectual infancy, " All the barbaric Pantheon of all savage ages and nations '' pass before him, and vanish with the coming dawn. Down on the verge of the river, the river of Time the eternal. Once, in a dream, as I wandered, it seemed the new morning was breaking. Far in the darkness to eastward, a glimmer of greyness was trembling. The face of the water was ruflfled, the sedges awoke with a shiver; There I saw Pan, the immortal, in silence, alone, in the darkness, Throned on a bank by the margin, embowered in rushes and reed-stems. Silent he sat in the darkness, sat long and gazed over the river. Smiled as he watched its dark waters that on to the westward swift hurried, Smiled with a face full of sadness, then turned to the east, to the dawning. Took up the pipes that lay by liim, and prest his lips deftly along them. Lo ! through the silence there sounded faint mystical murmurs of music, Music more subtly entrancing tlian any that mortal has uttered. Music so perfect in cadence that few are the ears which can hear it. Deaf the gross ears of the trader, grown dull with tlie jangle of guineas, Deaf all that worship in temples, and list to the droning of praises, Deaf all save only the Poet, who hears the sweet notes of his master: Pan, the unborn, the undying; alone among Gods the Immortal. FINIS. nr^ o. tO r^r} /