EASTERN DfVISmN 
 
 •3. ■■PABJJ.'GETTV 
 

 
 KANSAS 
 
 AND THE 
 
 COUNTRY BEYOND, 
 
 ON THE LINE OF THE 
 
 UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY, 
 
 IDJ-VISIOlSr, 
 
 FROM THE MISSOURI TO THE PA CIFIG OCEAN. 
 
 PARTLY FROM PERSONAL OBSERVATION, AND PARTLY' FROM IN- 
 FORMATION DRAWN FROM AUTHENTIC SOURCES. 
 
 WRITTEN IN A SERIES OF LETTERS TO THE PITTSBHR&H GAZETTE 
 
 By JOSIAH COPLEY. 
 
 itit a Pap* 
 
 PHILADELPHIA: 
 
 J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO. 
 1801 
 

KAISAS 
 
 AND THE 
 
 COUNTRY BEYOND, 
 
 ON THE LINE OF THE 
 
 UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY, 
 
 IDIY7-ISIOIT, 
 
 FROM THE MISSOURI TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 PABTLT FROM PERSONAL OBSERVATION, AND PARTLY FROM IN- 
 FORMATION DRAWN FROM AUTHENTIC SOURCES. 
 
 ■WRITTEN IN A SERIES OF LETTERS TO THE PITTSBUEOH &AZETTE 
 By JOSIAH COPLEY. 
 
 »ith a Pap. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA; 
 
 J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO 
 
 1867 . 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive’ • 
 in 2015 
 
 https://archive.org/details/kansascountrybey00copl_0 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Introductory Article. — The Territory beyond the Mississippi 
 — The two Great Eailroads — The Excursion 
 
 Letter I. — Arrival at Clear Creek, the end of the finished Eoad 
 —Meeting of the Excursionists at Clear Creek — Ellsworth — • 
 Arrival at Fort Barker — Curious Eocks — Prairie Grass — 
 Country last passed over — Fort Barker — Another Meeting — 
 Leave-taking — Expedition to Pond Creek . . . . 
 
 Letter II. — Tornadoes and Eain — Party to Pond Creek — A 
 Eanch — Solidity of the Earth — Wells — Length of the 
 Smoky Bill 
 
 Letter III. — Continuance of the Flood — Change in the Soil — 
 Buffalo Grass dying out — ^Wild Plums and other Fruit . 
 
 Letter IV. — The Flood — The Question of Eoutes 
 
 Letter Y. — Prairie Bogs — Eambling Observations-— Enterprise 
 of Chicago — Connection of Chicago with this State and 
 Eoad 
 
 Letter YI. — Water falling — ABew Botel — Eeturn of two of the 
 Pond Creek Party — Observations upon the Country above . 
 
 Letter YII. — Arrival at Lawrence — Flood in the Smoky Bill 
 and Kansas 
 
 Letter YIII. — Trees in Kansas ....... 
 
 Letter IX. — Mineral Eesources of Kansas — Magnesian Lime- 
 stone, its abundance and excellence as a Building Material — 
 Other Yarieties of Stone — Marble — General Eemarks . 
 
 Letter X. — Mineral Eesources of Kansas, continued — Coal — 
 Salt — Gypsum. — Alum — Iron 
 
 Letter XI. — Towns in Kansas — Leavenworth — Eivalry with 
 Kansas City — Lawrence — Its Location, Beauty and Bistory 
 — Swift Eetribution — Brief Mention of an old Friend . 
 
 Letter XII. — Towns in Kansas, continued 
 
 Letter XIII -Towns in Kansas, concluded — The Neosho Yal- 
 
 ley — Seasons in Kansas — A word to such as may think of 
 Emigrating ...... . . . 
 
 PAGE 
 
 5 
 
 II 
 
 16 
 
 19 
 
 21 
 
 24 
 
 28 
 
 31 
 
 34 
 
 37 
 
 41 
 
 45 
 
 50 
 
 53 
 
 ( 3 ) 
 
i 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Letter XIV. — Education in Kansas — The Free School System 
 — State Normal School — Peculiar Mode of Teaching — State 
 Agricultural College — University of Kansas — Equality and 
 Commingling of the Sexes in the Higher Schools . . .56 
 
 Letter XY. — Eeturn of the Pond Creek Party — The Line to 
 Denver — Pine Timber — Coal — The Mountain Snows must 
 be avoided — The Koute and Distance to New Mexico — 
 Superiority of the more Southern Eoute — Surveying Party . 60 
 
 Letter XYI. — General Subject of Eoutes discussed — Description 
 of the Yalley of the Platte — The Eegion between the Heads 
 of the Platte and the Sierra Nevada — Great Utility of both 
 Eoads — The Eoute beyond Kansas — Fertility of the Coun- 
 try on the Arkansas and Purgatoire Eivers — Immense De- 
 posits of Coal— -Pine Timber — New Mexico, its Minerals and 
 other Eesources 64 
 
 Letter XYII. — Arizona — California . . . . . .70 
 
 Letter XYIII. — Length of the respective Eoutes — Latitude 
 
 and Longitude of the Principal Points . . . . .74 
 
 Letter XIX. — Eastern Connections — Table of Distances . . 76 
 
 Letter XX. — Branch Eoads — To Galveston from three points 
 in Kansas — To Denver — Down the Eio Grande into Mexico 
 — To Guaymas — To San Diego — Effect upon Mexico — 
 
 General Eemarks . . . . . . . . .78 
 
 Letter XXI. — Will it Pay ? ........ 82 
 
 Letter XXII. — The March of Empire 84 
 
 THE MAP. 
 
 This is probably the most accurate and reliable Railroad Map that has ever been 
 offered to the public. It is a fac-simile of the official map prepared from the most 
 recent surveys and explorations under the authority of the Government at Washing- 
 ton, and was drawn and engraved by W. J. Keeler, Esq., of the Indian Bureau, ex- 
 pressly for this work. The lines of both the great Pacific Railroads are laid down 
 as nearly as possible as they are to be, and with equal fairness and fidelity. It was 
 not deemed to be either honest or politic to insult the intelligence of the country by 
 stretching a favorite line, like a ribbon, across the continent, and attempting to 
 ignore, as far as possible, all other roads that are not subsidiary to it. All that is 
 essential to a full and fair understanding of the great question of routes from the 
 Missouri to the Pacific is given. 
 
KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 Of the vast territory embraced within our national boundaries, 
 stretching from ocean to ocean, three-fifths lie west of the Mis- 
 sissippi, that great Mediterranean river which bisects it from 
 north to south, dividing it into two vast and strongly distinctive 
 and dissimilar sections. In this estimate I do not include the 
 territory recently purchased from Russia. The one is partially 
 occupied in all its parts ; the other is only beginning to be occu- 
 pied around its borders. The one is now the home of more than 
 nine-tenths of our people ; a century hence, it may be, the dwell- 
 ing-place of a majority of the American people will be in the 
 other. The one is a land of forests and navigable rivers, with 
 mountain systems of moderate altitude, and with topographical 
 features greatly diversified, often beautiful, but rarely grand ; the 
 other, for the most part, is made up of vast prairies of surpassing 
 beauty and fertility, and of stupendous mountains, rich in almost 
 all varieties of minerals, yet presenting barriers to human pro- 
 gress more formidable, perhaps, than are to be found anywhere 
 else on the earth’s surface. The one is a good couutry, surpass- 
 ingly good, as the past progress and prosperity of our people 
 abundantly attest ; but no man can travel long over the match- 
 less region which lies beyond the river, — a garden three times 
 the area of France, with mountains beyond sufiB.cient to supply 
 the ever-advancing world with precious metals, and an ocean 
 beyond them, with more people upon its shores and islands than 
 are found on all the other waters of the globe, — without coming 
 to the strong conviction that the trans-Mississippi section is still 
 better. 
 
 But this portion of the earth’s surface is as unique as it is 
 stupendous. While one part is sublime in altitude and rugged 
 grandeur, the other and nearer part is equally so in its vast ex- 
 tent and its continuous yet ever-varying beauty. Those prairies 
 
 ( 5 ) 
 
6 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 look as if an ocean, heaving in grand long swells, had become 
 suddenly indurated and clothed with luxuriant grass and flowers. 
 Day after day^ man may travel, and still one word will charac- 
 terize all he sees — Beautiful! Yet there is no monotony, for 
 every mile reveals beauties in new and peculiar forms. Such is 
 all Kansas, and such is all the country south of Kansas, from the 
 mountains to the flat grounds which skirt the Mississippi and 
 the Gulf. 
 
 To this general description, however, the greater part of the 
 valley of the Platte is exceptional. Broad, flat, treeless and 
 desolate, without lateral streams, and wdth scanty vegetation, it 
 does not attract settlers. As the Union Paciflc Railway, Eastern 
 Division, is pushed forward, section after section, up the Kansas 
 — now 250 miles beyond the Missouri — settlers in thousands 
 follow it, and even precede it, so that already numerous towns 
 have grown up where, two years ago, Indians and buffaloes were 
 roaming, each surrounded with well-tilled and productive farms. 
 The Union Paciflc Railroad of the Platte, however, has only 
 drawn settlements after it about a hundred miles west of the 
 Missouri. Beyond that the country remains almost as desolate 
 as ever. 
 
 The centre of Kansas is very nearly the geographical centre of 
 the United States. It may, therefore, with great propriety be 
 called the Central State. This is well, for it is perhaps the most 
 fertile, as it is unquestionably the most beautiful, of the great sister- 
 hood ; and through its gushing heart, as I believe, the great artery 
 of the world’s commerce is destined to flow. There is hardly a 
 sterile spot, as there is not a miasmatic swamp, nor a rugged 
 mountain, within its broad domain. I had heard much of Kan- 
 sas before I saw it, but the half had not been told. Last fall I was 
 through it as far as Fort Riley and Junction City ; and although 
 it was in Kovember, when everything was sere and dry, I was 
 much impressed with its beauties and its almost boundless capa- 
 bilities. This year,, as one of the excursionists over the Union 
 Pacific Railway, I again visited it in June, when Kature had 
 arrayed herself in her most gorgeous attire. The effect upon my 
 mind was still more impressive, and I resolved to take time to 
 acquaint myself well with everything calculated to interest the 
 minds of such as had thoughts of emigrating, and of all who take 
 
THE TWO GREAT RAILROADS. 
 
 7 
 
 an interest in the greatness, the grandeur, and the boundless 
 resources of our national heritage. 
 
 THE TWO GREAT RAILROADS. 
 
 It is rather an awkward and embarrassing circumstance that 
 the road which runs up the valley of the Platte, and that which 
 runs up the valley of the Kansas, should both bear nearly the 
 same name. The first is the Union Pacific PailrcacZ; the other 
 the Union Pacific Pailt^a^, Eastern Division. This sameness of 
 name arose out of the original programme, which was, that the 
 Kansas road should be carried up the Pepublican Fork of the 
 Kansas river, thence across the Platte river at the 100th meridian, 
 and there unite with the Platte road. But by Act of Congress, 
 of July, 1866, the Kansas Company were authorized to build their 
 road up the Smoky Hill instead of the Republican, and make 
 their junction with the other road at Denver, or that vicinity, at 
 about the 105th meridian. This change retarded the work on the 
 Kansas road considerably; but it greatly shortens the line to 
 Denver, and leads the road through a much better country — one 
 of good soil, abundance of water, and through a section abound- 
 ing in coal and pine timber. 
 
 But what is of still more importance, the road by the Smoky 
 Hill route has a slight southern bearing as far as the western line 
 of Kansas, at which point, or near it, it is in contemplation to 
 change the direction of the main line to the southwest, through 
 the southeastern corner of Colorado, and thence, through Kew 
 Mexico, Arizona, and Southern California, to San Francisco. 
 The original plan, however, of pushing on to Denver, is to be car- 
 ried out. The feasibility and the advantages of this southwestern 
 route, around the mountains instead of over them, are fully dis- 
 cussed in my concluding letters ; and I trust the reader, who will 
 favor me with an attentive perusal of the facts and arguments 
 ofiered, will agree with me in the opinion that this is by far the 
 better route to the Pacific. ^ 
 
 RAILROADS A NECESSITY IN THAT COUNTRY. 
 
 To subdue and occupy such a country as that beyond the Mis- 
 sissippi, will require greater forces than were employed in the 
 conquest of the section of our country east of that river, where. 
 
8 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 although very much aided by navigation on the lakes, and on the 
 Ohio and other rivers, settlement was half a century creeping from 
 the Alleghenies to the Mississippi, as it had been an entire cen- 
 tury making its way from the tidewater of the Atlantic to the 
 western slope of the Alleghenies. In the trans-Mississippi re- 
 gion, where Hature assumes vaster and sterner features, and where 
 there are few available rivers to aid in the work, artificial means 
 of transportation are imperatively necessary, and must first he 
 supplied. The old process must he inverted. The locomotive 
 must precede the plough, and the town the farm. Even Kansas, 
 with all its fertility — except for a comparatively short distance 
 along its eastern border — could not be occupied in any other 
 way. Colorado, except a few of the best of its gold mines, is 
 practically valueless until reached by rail. Kew Mexico, with its 
 rich resources, pastoral, agricultural, and mineral, is yet almost 
 an unknown land to our people, although we have had possession 
 of it for twenty years. Arizona is still more isolated and un- 
 known, rich as it is in mineral treasures. California we reach by 
 sea, and by passing through the territory of a foreign nation. 
 And what is true of the line here indicated is equally true of that 
 of the road which runs up the valley of the Platte, and which 
 opens a way into the territory of the great Central Plateau, and 
 of the remote Korthwest. 
 
 THE EXCURSION. 
 
 At the invitation of John P. Perry, Esq., President of the 
 Union Pacific Railway Company, Eastern Division, a large party 
 of ladies and gentlemen, including many members of Congress, 
 set out from Philadelphia on the 31st day of May, 1867, to make 
 an excursion to Fort Harker, in Kansas, 225 miles west of the 
 Missouri river, then the terminus of that road. Handsome and 
 commodious saloon and sleeping-cars were provided, which were 
 taken entirely through and back, and everything that well-directed 
 generosity could do to render the excursion qileasant and agree- 
 able, w^as done. Col. Samuel S. Moon, of Philadelphia, who had 
 charge of the expedition, will be long and cordially remembered 
 by the excursionists, for the graceful courtesies extended by him 
 to the members of the party. 
 
 As we progressed through State after State, our numbers 
 
THE EXCUKSIOlSr. 
 
 9 
 
 augmented, and every accession only added to the social enjoy- 
 ment. 
 
 At St. Louis we remained over the Sabbath, (hut indeed we 
 only reached it that morning for a late breakfast,) and on Monday 
 afternoon, with more cars and more excursionists, we set off for 
 Kansas, arriving at Leavenworth for breakfast on Tuesday morn- 
 ing, 305 miles. Here we had a grand reception — a sumptuous 
 dinner, a ride to Fort Leavenworth, where we were warmly wel- 
 comed by Generals Hancock and Hoffman, and their ladies ; then 
 a ride over the charming heights which overlook the city, the 
 river, and the beautiful and well-cultivated little valleys which 
 lay beneath. In the evening we ran over to Lawrence, where we 
 met a similar reception, had a spirited meeting and quite a plea- 
 sant time. The next day we started up the matchless valley of 
 the Kansas, dined at Topeka, and slept at Junction City. The fol- 
 lowing day we ran on, dined at Salina, and arrived at Clear Creek, 
 a short distance on this side of Fort Harker, then the end of the 
 finished road. Here the narrative is taken up in the following 
 letters. But my object in this publication is not so much to give 
 an account of the trip as to speak of the country and the great 
 work which we came out to see. 
 
 The following is a list of the excursionists who joined the party 
 east of the Mississippi : 
 
 Hon. Simon Cameron and wife, Pa. 
 
 Hon. Benj. H. Brewster, Att’y Gen., Pa. 
 Hon. H. A. Risley, Washington. 
 
 Miss Risley, Washington. 
 
 Hon. A. F. Stevens and wife, N. H. 
 Hon. J. A. Nicholson and wife, Bel. 
 
 Hon. A. H. Laflin, wife and daughter, 
 N. Y. 
 
 Hon. W. E. Chandler, wife and son, 
 Washington. 
 
 Hon. Frank Jordan and wife. Pa. 
 
 Hon. C. H. Van Wyck, N. Y. 
 
 Hon. B. M. Kitchen, West Virginia. 
 Hon. C. B. Hubbard, West Virginia. 
 Hon. J. L. Thomas, Baltimore. 
 
 Hon. G. S. Orth, wife and son, Lafayette, 
 Ind. 
 
 Hon. G. W. Julian, Indiana, 
 
 Hon. W. E. Niblack, Indiana. 
 
 J. B. Lippincott and wife, Philadelphia. 
 W. Hinchman, Philadelphia. 
 
 E. M. Paxson, Philadelphia. 
 
 John Price Wetherill, Philadelphia. 
 Samuel S. Moon, Philadelphia. 
 
 J. B. Mallery, Philadelphia. 
 
 Anthony Taylor, Philadelphia. 
 
 J. Norris Robinson, Philadelphia. 
 Thomas S. Stewart, Philadelphia. 
 
 H. C. Thompson, Philadelphia. 
 
 J. C. Browne, Philadelphia. 
 
 B. J. Taylor, Philadelphia. 
 
 Charles H.. Rogers, Philadelphia. 
 
 Maj. A. R.. Calhoun, Philadelphia Press, 
 Francis Wells, Philadelphia Bulletin. 
 
 A. K. Pedrick, Philadelphia Inquirer. 
 
 G. B. Van Wyck, N. Y. 
 
 John C. Wyman, New York. 
 
 J. R. Young, New York Tribune. 
 
 J. R. Fitch, New York World. 
 
 N. B. Hogg and wife, Pittsburgh. 
 
 Miss Nellie Hall, Pittsburgh, 
 
 E. B. Kennedy, Pittsburgh. 
 
 .Josiah Copley, Pittsburgh. 
 
 Wm. McManus, Reading. 
 
 Miss McManus, Reading. 
 
 H. E. Steele, Coatesville, Pa. 
 
 Mrs. Burnside, Pa. 
 
 Mrs. Br. Bobbs, Indianapolis. 
 
10 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND, 
 
 Mrs, Usher, son and niece, Indiana. 
 D. E. Small, York, Pa. 
 
 R. R. Robinson, Wilmington, Del, 
 W. W, Taylor, Baltimore. 
 
 J. Birckhead, Baltimore. 
 
 C. C. Fulton, Baltimore American, 
 George Abell, Baltimore. 
 
 B. F. Newcomer, Baltimore. 
 
 H. A. Riddle, Baltimore. 
 
 Wm, W. Taylor, Baltimore, 
 Frederick Schley, Frederick, Md. 
 
 G. C. Beaman, Jr., Washington. 
 Marquis de Chambrun, Washington. 
 
 Col. J. E. Schley, West Virginia, 
 Wm. P. Hubbard, West Virginia. 
 
 J. I. Underwood, Indiana. 
 
 W. L. Woods, Indiana. 
 
 George Rutledge, London, England, 
 Cyrus Yale, New Orleans, 
 
 Gen. G. W. Morgan, Ohio. 
 
 H. J. Budd, Kansas. 
 
 J. H. Riley, Alta California. 
 
 H. G. Howard, Detroit. 
 
 M. Rennick, Detroit. 
 
 Dr. S. S. Ward, Chicago Jour, of Com 
 J. F. Comstock, Connecticut. 
 
 The following named excursionists joined the party at St. Louis 
 and points west of the Mississippi : 
 
 Mr. John D. Perry, Pres’t U. P. R. W., 
 
 E. D. 
 
 Col. C. B. Lamborn, Sec’y U. P. R. W., 
 E, D., and wife, St. Louis. 
 
 Mrs. Perry and Miss Perry, St. Louis. 
 Miss Annie Pulliam, St. Louis. 
 
 Miss Grover, St. Louis. 
 
 Edward Hays, St. Louis. 
 
 Charles H. Peck, St. Louis. 
 
 John R. Shepley, St. Louis. 
 
 R. J. Lockwood and two sons, St. Louis. 
 Mr. Lackland, St. Louis. 
 
 Mr. Robbins, St, Louis. 
 
 J. P. Collier, St. Louis. 
 
 Mr. D. Collier, St. Louis. 
 
 Mr, C. S. Greeley and daughter, St.Louis. 
 Hon. J. S. Thomas, St. Louis, 
 
 H. F. Zeider, St. Louis Republican. 
 
 Wm. Fay el, St. Louis Republican. 
 
 D. M. Grisson, St. Louis Ev’g Dispatch. 
 Mr. Adolphus Meier, St. Louis. 
 
 John Meier, St. Louis. 
 
 George D. Hall, St. Louis. 
 
 Miss Doench, St. Louis. 
 
 Mrs. Rodgers, St. Louis. 
 
 S. W. Andron, St. Louis. 
 
 Hon. W. A. Pile, St. Louis. 
 
 Col, C. S. Brown, St. Louis. 
 
 Hon. J. B. Henderson, St. Louis. 
 
 H. V. Myers, St. Louis. 
 
 Mr. F. B. Shoemaker, St. Louis. 
 
 C, L. Draper, St. Louis. 
 
 W. Stenngle, West. Post, St. Louis. 
 Henry C. Lynch, St. Lou^s. 
 
 A. H. Martin, St. Louis. 
 
 Lucian Eaton, St. Louis. 
 
 A, H. Hibbard, St. Louis. 
 
 George Partridge, St. Louis. 
 
 Mrs. T. G. Meier, St. Louis. 
 
 Hon, C. H. Branscomb, St. Louis. 
 
 S. C. Burch, 3Iissouri Democrat. 
 
 Mrs. McCullough, St. Louis. 
 
 Mrs. Brown, St. Louis. 
 
 H. A. Stinson, New York. 
 
 B. C. Riggs, New York. 
 
 S. J. Colgate, New York. 
 
 W. H. Brusin, New York. 
 
 Mr. Tillford, New York. 
 
 Wm, R. Cole, Baltimore. 
 
 Col. L. M. Dayton, U. S. A, 
 
 Gen. Hoffman, U. S. A. 
 
 Gen. Morgan, U. S. A. 
 
 Mrs. Gen. Morgan, Fort Leavenworth. 
 Miss Mills, Fort Leavenworth. 
 
 Major Page, U. S. A. 
 
 Col. Irwin, U. S. A. 
 
 Capt. C. A. Allegood, U. S. A. 
 
 Col. Wilson, U. S. A. 
 
 Major-Gen. Hancock, U. S. A. 
 
 Gen. Haines, U. S. A. 
 
 Gen. Hazen, U. S. A. 
 
 Col. Brown, U. S. A. 
 
 Col. McKissock, Gen. Sup. P. R. R. 
 
 M. C. Shoemaker, Ohio, 
 
 J. W. Miller, Cincinnati Commercial. 
 
 Hon. Mr. Newcomb, Missouri, 
 
 Hon. Lewis V. Bogy, Washington. 
 Alfred Hibbard, Tennessee. 
 
 Gen. J. L. Donaldson and wife, U. S. A. 
 Hon. S. J. Crawford, Gov, of Kansas. 
 
LETTERS. 
 
 I. 
 
 Arrival at Clear Greeks the end of the Finished Road — Meeting of the 
 Excursionists at Clear Greek — Ellsworth — Arrival at Fort Harker — 
 Curious Rocks — Rrairie Grass — Country last passed over — Fort 
 Harker — Another Meeting — Leave-taking — Expedition to Pond Greek. 
 
 Ellsworth, three miles beyond \ 
 Fort Harker, June 7, 1867. J 
 
 We arrived here this morning from Clear Creek, the present end of 
 the road, four miles east of this place, where we stayed last night, 
 supped in a big tent, slept in the cars, and where we had a glorious 
 meeting, over which G-eneral Cameron presided, and at which Attorney 
 General Brewster, of Pennsylvania, was the chief orator. His speech 
 was one of classic elegance, and rose fully up to the inspiring associa- 
 tions with which we were surrounded. Mr. Perry, the President of 
 the Company, was then called and made a few felicitous remarks. He 
 was followed by Judge IJsher, of Indiana, who spoke eloquently and 
 in perfect accord with the unanimous sentiment of the party, that the 
 great enterprise, the progress of which we had come to witness, was 
 deserving of liberal aid from both government and people. 
 
 The following is the published report of this meeting: 
 
 Proceedings of a Meeting of Excursionists, held near Fort Harker, Kansas, at the 
 western end of the Track of the Union Pacific Railway, Eastern Division, as 
 far as completed on this Route. 
 
 Clear Creek, Kansas, June 6th, 1867. 
 
 Hon. H. A. Risley, Assistant Solicitor United States Treasury, called the 
 meeting to order and nominated Hon. Simon Cameron, United States Senate, for 
 President, which was unanimously agreed to. 
 
 The following named officers were then elected : 
 
 Vice Presidents : — Hon. A. F. Stevens, N. Hampshire ; Hon. J. A. Nicholson, 
 Delaware ; Hon. A. H. Laflin, New York ; Hon. C. H. Van Wyck, New York; 
 Hon. B. M. Kitchen, W. Virginia ; Hon. C. D. Hubbard, W. Virginia ; Hon. J. 
 L. Thomas, Maryland ; Hon. G. S. Orth, Indiana ; Major General Hancock, U. 
 S. A. ; General Haines, U. S. A. ; General Hazen, U. S. A. ; General Donaldson, 
 U. S. A. ; General G. W. Morgan, Ohio ; Hon. J. B. Henderson, Missouri ; Hon. 
 C. A. Newcomb, Missouri ; Hon. W. E. Niblack, Indiana. 
 
 Secretaries : — Alexander K. Pedrick, of Pennsylvania ; C. C. Fulton, of 
 Maryland. 
 
 ( 11 ) 
 
12 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 Chas. H. Rogers, President of the Tradesmen’s Bank, Philadelphia, moved the 
 appointment of a Committee to draft resolutions expressive of the views of the 
 excursionists. The motion was agreed to. 
 
 The following Committee was appointed, viz. : 
 
 Chas. H. Rogers, Chairman, Pennsylvania ; W. W. Taylor, President Union 
 National Bank, Baltimore ; J. B. Lippincott, Pennsylvania ; Frederick Schley, 
 Maryland ; Col. J. E. Schley, West Virginia ; Cyrus Yale, New Orleans ; Hon. 
 Frank Jordan, Secretary of State, Pennsylvania. 
 
 During the absence of the Committee to prepare resolutions, an address was 
 delivered by the President, Hon. Simon Cameron. 
 
 Chas. H. Rogers, Esq., on behalf of the Committee on resolutions, presented 
 the following preamble and resolutions, viz. ; 
 
 Whereas, An excursion party from the States of New York, Pennsylvania, 
 Delaware, New Hampshire, Maryland, District of Columbia, Ohio, Indiana, Illi- 
 nois, Missouri, West Virginia, Michigan and Kansas, have this day reached Fort 
 Harker, Kansas, a point on the Union Pacific Railway, Eastern Division, 1,525 
 miles west of the Atlantic Ocean, on the direct route to California and the shores 
 of the Pacific, and now desire to give expression to their views in regard to the 
 Pacific Railway, Eastern Division, and the courtesies which they have received 
 in the West ; and 
 
 Whereas, They realize as their own belief, and that of the American people, 
 that our mission extends as a nation not only to the promotion of liberty, fra- 
 ternity and equality, but to the encouragement of great works of art, which shall 
 be as enduring as our national fame, and which shall bind together by the strong 
 ties of commercial interest the cities on the shores of two widely separated 
 Oceans ; and 
 
 Whereas, Foremost among these works is a Pacific Railway, a project bold and 
 daring in its inception, and worthy of a people whose enterprise has already 
 studded the mountains and plains of a continent with the evidences of national 
 prosperity. Therefore we, the excursionists, assembled at a point almost in the 
 centre of the American continent, have 
 
 Resolved, That, as guests of the Union Pacific Railway Co., Eastern Division, 
 having travelled over fifteen hundred miles in the same cars, with every possible 
 comfort, receiving a generous hospitality, and enjoying a constant succession of 
 agreeable and instructive incidents, we hereby tender our acknowledgments to 
 the President, Directors, officers and agents of the Company, for the rare oppor- 
 tunity, the liberal provisions for our comfort, and all the realizations of this 
 remarkable journey from the seaboard almost to the base of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains. 
 
 Resolved, That we congratulate the President and managers of the Union 
 Pacific Railway, Eastern Division, upon the rapid and substantial progress of 
 their work, a miracle of labor, art and capital, and a splendid monument of their 
 energy and enterprise, and that we congratulate the nation upon the prospect of 
 an early completion of this magnificent avenue of commerce, which promises so 
 much for the rapid settlement of an almost boundless domain — for enlarging the 
 field of labor and production, and which will be at all seasons of such immeas- 
 urable value and importance to our country in times of war and of peace. 
 
 Resolved, That we commend to the fostering care of the Government and the 
 people of the United States this great undertaking as one that will materially 
 promote the development of the mineral, agricultural and commercial resources 
 of the extreme Western States and Territories, and as a great highway between 
 the oceans, believing that it will add immeasurably to the wealth and prosperity 
 of the nation, to provide the necessary aid for its early completion. 
 
 Resolved, That our acknowledgments are also due to the citizens of St. Louis, 
 Leavenworth, Lawrence, Topeka, Salina, Junction City, Tonganoxie, Hermann, 
 and the various cities and towns on our way, and to Gen. Hancock, U. S. A., 
 commanding the department of Missouri, and his associate officers on the line of 
 the Union Pacific Railway, Eastern Division, for civilities and courtesies grace- 
 
MEETING OF THE EXCURSIONISTS. 
 
 13 
 
 fully and generously bestowed, which lent additional charm to our journey and 
 will be long remembered. 
 
 Resolved, That our thanks are tendered to the officers of the Pennsylvania Cen- 
 tral, Pittsburgh, Columbus & Cincinnati, Columbus & Indianapolis, Terre Haute 
 & Indianapolis, St. Louis, Terra Haute & Alton, and the Pacific and Missouri 
 River Railroads, for facilities and courtesies received on the roads respectively 
 under their supervision, each of them an important link in the lengthened line 
 we have so happily traversed. 
 
 Frederick Schley, Esq., of Maryland, moved the adoption of the resolutions, 
 and they were unanimously adopted. 
 
 Hon. Benjamin Harris Brewster, Attorney General of Pennsylvania, sustained 
 the resolutions in an address, enforcing the claims of the enterprise upon the 
 Government and citizens of the United States. 
 
 John D. Perry, Esq., President of the Union Pacific Railway, Eastern Division, 
 acknowledged the compliment to the Company. 
 
 Judge Usher, of Indiana, spoke on behalf of the West. 
 
 The meeting then adjourned to re-assemble at a convenient opportunity. 
 
 SIMON CAMERON, President. 
 
 Alexander K. Pedeick, ] 
 
 C. C. Fulton, J 
 
 After a quiet night’s rest in the sleeping-cars, we were summoned 
 to an early breakfast, after which we took ambulances for Ellsworth. 
 This is a bustling and really pleasant place, nearly' six months old, 
 and containing fifty or sixty stores and dwellings. It is located on a 
 beautiful piece of land on the bank of Smoky Hill, which is here about 
 the width of the Conemaugh at Blairsville, but deeper. The country 
 around here is beautiful. The river and its numerous tributaries are 
 skirted on either side with belts of timber, all the rest being prairie. 
 Above the bluffs the country" is undulating — more so than it is in the 
 more eastern part of Kansas. The soil is altogether different, being 
 a strong sandy loam, in some places thin, in others several feet in 
 thickness. It seems to be quite destitute of lime ; while in the portion 
 of Kansas lying east of Salina (fifty miles west of Fort Eiley^), the 
 only^ stone is limestone. Here, since we struck the “divide,” some 
 twenty-five or thirty miles back, the only varieties of stone I have 
 seen are two very dissimilar kinds of sandstone — one a seamless rock 
 of very- pure white sand of fine grain, and so friable that it can be 
 pulverized between the thumb and finger; the other, which immedi- 
 ately overlays it, is also fine grained and pure, but very hard and 
 irregularly laminated. 
 
 Having written thus far, we adjourned to Fort Harker. 
 
 Yesterday afternoon, a short distance before we reached the present 
 termination of the road, we visited what is called the “Pulpit Rock,” 
 or, as it is sometimes termed, the “ Mushroom Rock,” so called because 
 it resembles a mushroom in having a broad table or cap poised upon a 
 comparatively^ slender stem. The pedestal or stem is about ten feet 
 high and five or six in diameter. This is composed of that soft and 
 
14 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 easily pulverized sandstone spoken of above, while the eap, which is 
 oval in form, but nearly round, and on the under side very much 
 resembling an enormous duck without head or tail, twenty feet long 
 by perhaps seventeen or eighteen wide and about ten thick, is com- 
 posed of that hard sandstone of which I have spoken. The upper 
 side is somewhat rough and fractured. To see that huge block of 
 stone so nicely balanced upon so narrow and so friable a base is very 
 curious, and, in spite of reason and experience, the thought that it 
 might grind it to powder at any moment will suggest itself. There it 
 stands on the open and desolate prairie, and there it has stood for 
 ages. At a little distance there is a heavy outcropping of the same 
 kind of rocks, some of the forms of which are very curious. 
 
 In some localities that soft sand rock is strongly impregnated with 
 iron ; but it is generally pure, and would make very good glass, l^ear 
 Fort Harker, (where l am now writing in a tent placed at ray disposal 
 by Major General Hancock), there is what was at one time a high 
 column of this sandstone, but it is now crumbled into blocks and loose 
 sand, presenting, in the distance, the appearance of the ruins of an 
 ancient marble temple or tower. Some of our party, before we reached 
 it, insisted that it was a building in ruins ; but I knew that that could 
 not be. 
 
 This side of that “ divide of which I have spoken we have been in 
 the butfalo-grass region ; and here at Fort Harker, and all over these 
 widely extended regions, it is the predominant grass. It grows in 
 small tufts, very much like timothy, and is nearty of the same shade 
 of green, but is finer and more delicate in the blade. In the manner 
 of its growth and seeding it is more like our blue grass ; and although 
 I have seen some of it that had shot to seed, I have seen none six 
 inches high. It is very hardy; for although in this encampment it 
 sustains the trampling of hundreds of men and animals, it seems to be 
 as healthy and flourishing as that on the open prairie. 
 
 I have spoken more particularly of this grass than some readers 
 might deem worth while ; but when we remember that it covers mil- 
 lions of acres of territory, that it is probably the most nutritious grass 
 that grows, and that it is capable of feeding to extreme fatness in both 
 summer and winter piillions of cattle and sheep, we will see that it is 
 not an unimportant topic. Whether it would grow in our State I 
 cannot say; but, on my return, I intend, if I can, to bring a little of 
 the seed with me. 
 
 The country to the west of Fort Eiley for sixty miles, through 
 which we have passed, is one of extreme beauty and fertility. The 
 valley of “ Solomon’s Fork,” as it is called, which comes in from the 
 
FORT HARKER — ANOTHER MEETING. 
 
 15 
 
 W. N. W., about forty miles west of Fort Eiley, is one of the most 
 picturesque and fertile regions we have seen ; and although the rail- 
 road only reached it this spring, I am informed that a thousand set- 
 tlers are in it already. Solomon City— near where the railroad crosses 
 the stream — is a brisk and rather pretty business place. It looks like 
 a town that is destined to thrive. Salina, another new town, a few 
 miles further west, is still more thrifty, containing, according to the 
 best information I could get, nearly two thousand people. We dined 
 there yesterday. I mingled for a while with the Denver ox-teamsters, 
 a hardy, robust, and sociable class of men. One little party, who were 
 cooking their dinner, wanted me to go with them. They said if I 
 wished to go to Denver, it was the best way I could go. I asked how 
 long it would take to make the trip? “Only a month and a half’^ 
 “Are you not afraid of the Indians I asked. “ No ; you fellows out 
 East think and talk more about the Indians than we do,” was the 
 answer. I declined the invitation. 
 
 The Union Pacific Eailway from the Missouri to Fort Harker is a 
 substantial and good road — better than any we found between Steu- 
 benville and the Mississippi. Between Salina and this place, where 
 the road runs across a long southern bend in the river, there is some 
 heavy cutting and filling. 
 
 Fort Harker is about two miles east of Ellsworth, on a beautiful 
 piece of ground at a moderate elevation above the river. There are 
 but few valuable buildings, nor is it likely there ever will be more; 
 for the railroad will render even a military post at this place unneces- 
 sary. General Hancock declared that every forty miles of this road 
 finished enabled the Government to dispense with the services of a 
 regiment of men, at a saving, in this distant region, of more than a 
 million of dollars a year. 
 
 At Fort Harker, this afternoon, we had an enthusiastic adjourned 
 meeting of the excursionists, at which Senator John B. Henderson, 
 of Missouri, presided, Gen. Cameron and a small paity of friends 
 having returned last evening. Brief but animated addresses were 
 made by Hon. John B. Henderson, of Missouri; Major General Han- 
 cock, U. S. A. ; Hon. G. S. Orth, M. C. of Indiana ; Hon. A. F. Stevens, 
 of New Hampshire ; Hon. J. A. Nicholson, of Delaware; A. H. Laflin, 
 of New York; Wm. E. Niblack, of Indiana; Hon. Wm. E. Chandler, 
 Assistant Secretary of the Treasury, Washington ; Hon. C. D. Hub- 
 bard, West Virginia ; Hon. B. M. Kitchen, West Virginia; Hon. Frank 
 Jordan, Sec. Com. Pennsylvania; Hon. Jas. S. Thomas, Mayor of St. 
 Louis; Hon. C. H. Clark, of Kansas; Hon. E. F. Van Horn, of Mis- 
 souri ; Gen. Thos. L. Price, of Missouri; Hon. C. A. Newcomb, of Mis- 
 
16 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 souri; Francis Wells, of the Philadelphia Bulletin) Judge Kingman, 
 of Kansas; Hon. J. P. Usher, of Indiana; and Hon. C. H. Branscomb, 
 of Missouri. 
 
 The sentiments uttered by all these gentlemen were in perfect accord 
 with the resolutions adopted at the first meeting. All seemed to be 
 deeply impressed with the grandeur and utility of the great enter- 
 prise which they had come so far to witness, and with not a single 
 dissent they commended it to the fostering care of the Kational Leg- 
 islature. The next adjournment was to a large tent, where an excel- 
 lent dinner awaited us. Soon after dinner, those of the excursionists 
 who are going further west took leave of their friends who are re- 
 turning to their homes, including ail the ladies. Some fifteen gentle- 
 men of the party, with Mr. Perry, the President of this road, set out 
 to-morrow for Pond Creek, accompanied by Major General Hancock, 
 with a small military force, who is going west, in j^ursuance of his 
 duties as commander of this department of the service. Pond Creek 
 is two hundred miles further up the Smoky Hill, and west of Fort 
 Harker. I return to-morrow to meet the Senatorial party, headed by 
 Senator Wade, (who have just returned from the Platte, and are 
 coming up this road,) and accompany them in their excursion over 
 this road. 
 
 LETTEE II. — Tornadoes and Bain — Party to Bond Creek — A Ranch 
 — Solidity of the Earth — Wells — Length of the Smoky Hill. 
 
 Salina, (Kansas,) June 10, 1867. 
 
 I HAVE been here since Saturday afternoon, detained by the washing 
 out of a small culvert below here. We hope to get off at noon. On 
 Friday night and Saturday we had a succession of as heavy showers 
 as I ever saw. All the streams were swollen to the size of little rivers, 
 and tbe Smoky Hill is said to be higher than it has been for six or 
 seven years. The level prairie on which the town stands was literally 
 one broad shallow sheet of water on Saturday evening. 
 
 I parted from my friends, who are going to Pond Creek — two hun- 
 dred miles east of Ellsworth — on Saturday morning. The party con- 
 sisted of some twenty gentlemen, among whom were Major General 
 Hancock, John H. Perry, Esq., President of this road, Mr. Shoemaker, 
 Chief Contractor, Hon. Messrs. Thomas, of Maryland, Hubbard, of 
 West Yirginia, Mr. E. H. Kennedy, of Pittsburg, several correspond- 
 ents of Eastern papers, and others ; altogether a very pleasant party. 
 It was at first arranged that I should go, but afterwards that I should 
 
TORNADOES — ^ RAIN — A RANCH. 
 
 17 
 
 return to Lawrence or Leavenworth to meet the Senatorial party — • 
 some forty in all ~ consisting of Messrs. Wade, Trumbull, Covode, and 
 others, who have just returned from their excursion over the Union 
 Pacific Eailway of the Platte. I like the arrangement very well. 
 
 On Friday afternoon, after the main body of the excursionists had 
 left us, we had a tremendous hurricane, the severest, Gen. Hancock 
 said, that he had ever seen on the plains. One tent was torn up 
 and prostrated ; another was drawn from its fastenings. A frame 
 building was blown down and scattered over the prairie as if it had 
 been dry leaves. We dared not remain in the tents, and it was hard 
 work to bear up against the wind. But there was no danger. The 
 scene was truly sublime, especially in the northwest, where the dark 
 clouds, tinged with sunshine, tossed in the tempest in the wildest con- 
 fusion, causing a strange optical illusion that drew the attention of all 
 the party — the appearance of avast lake with well-defined grassy 
 shore on the near side, and huge and rugged mountains on the farther 
 shore. The storm lasted about an hour and a half, and then partially 
 lulled. 
 
 Some time in the night, while we were all in our tents, it began 
 again, and was little, if any, less violent, and continued for about two 
 hours. This was accompanied by the broadest and most vivid flashes 
 of sheet-lightning I ever saw, and so incessant that there was hardly 
 an interval of one second of darkness. This, too, passed over, and I 
 fell asleep. But long before daylight I was aroused again by the 
 dashing of rain upon the canvas, as if the windows of heaven had 
 been opened. After a while I put my hand out upon the ground, and 
 found that the water had filled the ditch, and was flowing into the 
 tent. I had no light, but I got up and put my blankets, &c. upon a 
 table, placed other things upon boxes, then mounted the table and 
 listened to the fierce hissing and dashing of the rain upon the tent. 
 At length morning dawned, and when we went out all was quiet and 
 comparatively pleasant. About noon it poured down again, and then 
 again, causing the flood of which I have already spoken. 
 
 About nine o’clock I took leave of my friends, and left the Fort in 
 company with E. H. Shoemaker, Esq., Assistant Manager of the road, and 
 Mr. Wallace, in a spring wagon, to go to the cars at Clear Creek, three 
 or four miles distant. On the way we came to what is called a ranch. 
 When I made some inquiries about it, Mr. Wallace kindly proposed to 
 leave me and return for me in an hour. Introducing me to Mr. Fisher, 
 one of the contractors, I was invited in and had a very pleasant 
 time. There were eight ladies, mostly the wives of the contractors, 
 lively, intelligent and accomplished, and a number of gentlemen. We 
 2 
 
18 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 had a pleasant and interesting conversation, and partook of a bottle 
 of Missouri champagne — very good. Mr. Fisher gave me several 
 specimens of stones and clay; one of the latter I think is valuable, 
 being more purely white than chalk, and so soft that it had to be 
 handled carefully to avoid pulverizing it. 
 
 As many readers may wish to know what kind of a habitation a 
 ranch is, I shall attempt a description of this one. First, an excava- 
 tion is made in the side of a bank or bluff, the back part of which is 
 left nearly as perpendicular as a wall. A stone wall, one hundred and 
 twenty feet long and some ten feet high, with a number of glass win- 
 dows in it, runs along the front of this excavation, leaving a clear 
 space of sixteen feet by one hundred and twenty. From the top of 
 the wall to the bank, small rough logs are laid thickly, and upon 
 these what I took to be a large mass of prairie grass. The whole is 
 overlaid with a heavy coating of earth, sufficient to keep out the 
 heaviest rain; for notwithstanding the deluge of the night before, 
 this ranch was as dry as if not a drop had fallen. It was a rough but 
 really comfortable habitation, and must be very warm in winter. 
 The bank here was composed of strong particolored clay, of a light 
 stone color, streaked with vermilion. I picked up a small specimen. 
 There are many ranches in that region, some of them rude enough. 
 I saw a few which were mere burrows. 
 
 So solid is the earth out here, that wells are dug twenty -five or 
 thirty feet deep, and used without walling. I examined one to-day at 
 the railroad station at this place, which is not yet finished. It is 
 about fifteen feet in diameter, and is now dug to the depth of twenty- 
 five feet. It is round, and the sides, which are perfectly perpendicu- 
 lar, have more the appearance of rough plastered walls than earth. 
 From top to bottom there seems to be no difference in the soil or earth. 
 It is a fine grayish sand, similar to the sand or mud bars of the Mis- 
 souri. The Avater of the wells here is pure and pleasant to the taste, 
 and if Avells are dug to the proper depth they never fail. The streams 
 are narrow in their channels, and have high banks, fringed with trees 
 of various kinds, principally cottonwood. These remarks, with re- 
 gard to the compactness of the earth, Avells, water and streams, apply 
 to all the State of Kansas as far as I have seen it — about 225 miles. 
 In many sections there are very fine springs. 
 
 The Smoky Hill, which has its sources not far this side of Pike’s 
 Peak, and has a course of not less than four hundred miles above this 
 place, is still rising, and has overflowed some extensive flats above. 
 The rain must have been tremendous up towards the mountains. 
 
CHANGE IN THE SOIL — BUFFALO GRASS DYING OUT. 19 
 
 LETTEE III. — Continuance of the Flood — Change in the Soil — Buffalo 
 Grass dying out — Wild Plums and other Fruits. 
 
 Salina, Kansas, June 12. 
 
 The river continues to rise, and is beginning to overflow the flats. 
 It is impossible, while this state of things continues, to run trains 
 through. I am consequently detained longer than I expected. But I 
 need not be idle, for I have already seen enough to occupy me for 
 some days in writing out my impressions of this most beautiful of all 
 the regions I have ever seen. 
 
 About the meridian of this place the character of Kansas changes — 
 not so much in conformation and general appearance as in geology 
 and the composition of the soil. East of this, that is below this, the 
 only stone is a magnesian limestone. Of this, and of its excellence as 
 a building stone, I shall speak more fully hereafter. Here the sand- 
 stone region commences — of the varieties of which I have already 
 spoken. Below this the soil is almost black, and extremely fertile. 
 Here, on this extensive river flat, it is quite dark-colored ; but as we 
 mount upon the higher grounds to the west, it is a rich dark brown — 
 in some few places rather thin, but generally several feet in thickness. 
 It is evidently strongly impregnated with iron, and to the eye is 
 better than any upland soil I ever saw in Pennsylvania. In our State 
 it would be first-rate wheat land ; but whether wheat can ever be 
 successfully grown on the plains west of this is a question I cannot 
 answer. Colonel Fisher, who lives more than thirty miles west of 
 this, in a place where the brown stone, of which I have before spoken, 
 abounds, told me that it produced root crops admirably, especially 
 sweet potatoes. The land of which he spoke is far from the river and 
 fairly within the buffalo grass region. 
 
 Here, near Salina, the buffalo grass begins; but it is evidently 
 yielding to the coarser and stronger grasses of the prairie. Up about 
 Fort Harker it predominates. The idea, that as the buffaloes are driven 
 back the buffalo grass ceases, is one that everywhere prevails in this 
 country. I think it is well founded. My own opinion is, that this is 
 the only grass that can bear the heavy trampling of those vast herds. 
 Hence, small as it is, it keeps possession as long as the buffaloes remain ; 
 but when they are driven off, the larger and coarser grasses come in 
 and smother it. We talk in the East of prairie grass as if it were a 
 distinct variety; but there are several varieties. In no place did I see 
 so many and so beautiful flowers as in the neighborhood of Fort 
 Harker. I saw two varieties of cactus — one the common thick-lobed 
 cactus which we often see in gardens in our State ; the other is very 
 
20 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 curious and pretty, consisting generally of a congeries of globular 
 masses, each made up of many points, all curiously connected by a 
 net-work of delicate but strong external fibres and pricks. They are 
 said to bear pretty flowers, but they are not yet in bloom. 
 
 Along the margins of the streams up in that part of the country 
 there are boundless quantities of wild plums of excellent quality. 
 Colonel Fisher told me that he could load wagons with them. Ladies 
 use them largely for preserves, jellies, &c. Wild grapes and goose- 
 berries abound. 
 
 So far as I saw, the bufPalo grass region, or “the plains,” as this 
 portion of our continent has long been called, is a beautiful and 
 cheerful-looking country — gently undulating, and here and there pre- 
 senting hills or huttes that partake of the character of ruggedness. In 
 some places, distant from watercourses, it looks like the ocean, and, 
 like the sea, it has its wrecks; for look over it when and where you 
 will, you see the stark remains of its monarchs, the buffaloes, bleaching 
 in the sun and wind. Waste and desolate as it appears to the weary 
 traveller in its natural condition, it only awaits the hand of enlight- 
 ened industry and taste to make it beautiful and home-like — more 
 beautiful than Illinois, for it is not so monotonous. 
 
 Of the meteorology of this country I of course cannot speak with 
 confidence. It is said by some to be too dry for successful agri- 
 culture. Perhaps it is; but surely we saw rain enough. Almost con- 
 stantly there is a fresh and invigorating breeze, often rising into a 
 stiff gale. This is the clearest atmosphere I ever saw. Men have to 
 be careful how they estimate distances here by the eye, for objects 
 miles off look as if they might be reached on foot in a few minutes. 
 Chills and fevers, I am told, never originate here, and it was a frequent 
 remark among our excursionists — “ How healthy the people look!” 
 The sunsets and the nocturnal heavens are far more glorious than 
 they are with us. 
 
 The most serious want of this country is timber, which becomes 
 more and more scarce as we go west. So far, wood for fuel, here at 
 Salina, is worth eight dollars per cord ; but until more can be grown 
 it cannot but become more and more scarce and expensive. Ho coal, 
 properly so called,^has yet been mined in this part of the State ; but 
 it exists in abundance in several localities near the lower end of this 
 road, in the southern part of the State and in Colorado, east and 
 south of Pike's Peak, on the line of this road. In this neighborhood 
 a vein of lignite exists, some six or seven feet thick. I have a small 
 sample of it; but of its valile as fuel I am not able to speak confi- 
 dently. The time will come, however, when there will be no difilculty 
 
PRICES OF LUMBER AND OTHER COMMODITIES, 
 
 21 
 
 about fuel, for trees grow vigorously and rapidly wherever I have 
 seen them planted; and as railroads are multiplied, as they will be^ 
 and other deposits of coal discovered — of which there are indications 
 in many places — that difficulty will be overcome. 
 
 Lumber for building is procured both here and at Chicago and St. 
 Louis, and sometimes at Cincinnati, and sells at this place at about 
 the following prices : 
 
 
 Per m. 
 
 Pine — clear stuff, planed, Ko. 1, . 
 
 $110 
 
 U a u u ^‘2, 
 
 $95 @105 
 
 “ Common “ .... 
 
 . 70@85 
 
 Pine flooring, worked, ..... 
 
 $70, 80, 90 
 
 Siding, (weatherboarding) .... 
 
 . 45 @60 
 
 Shingles, pine — per m 
 
 10 @11 
 
 “ Dimension stuff,” (scantling,) Pine, . 
 
 70 
 
 Cottonwood boards, 
 
 45 @50 
 
 Cottonwood shingles, 
 
 . 4.50 @6 
 
 From these figures the cost of building up here can be proximately 
 estimated. Eents are high. The “ Goddard House,” a tolerably large, 
 but flimsy and roughly finished building, almost entirely built of cot- 
 tonwood, rents for $1500 a year. A smaller but somewhat better 
 finished house, where I am staying, brings, I am told, $1800 a year. 
 Flour is selling at $22 a barrel, and potatoes $2.75. The soil yields 
 enormously as a general thing, and farming is a remunerative busi- 
 ness. Cattle, I am informed, only require of from four to six weeks 
 feeding in the winter, and hay, cut ad libitum on the prairies, is the 
 cheapest thing in this country. 
 
 I have thus endeavored to give you a fair report, leaving the reader 
 to ponder the pros and cons. 
 
 The report now is that the river began to fall this morning. We 
 expect to get olf this afternoon. 
 
 LETTEE lY.— The Flood — The Question of Routes. 
 
 Salina, Kansas, June 12, 1867. — Afternoon. 
 
 The “Smoky” still continues to swell, contrary to the report this 
 morning that it was falling. It has overspread the flats for miles in 
 places. This town now stands on a large island. Ko trains can get 
 out to-day, so I must be content to abide one day more. The report 
 now is that the Senatorial party will be at Junction City this evening, 
 and will probably be here for dinner to-morrow. If a train should go 
 
22 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 out in the morning I shall meet the party at Abeliene, halfway 
 between this and Junction City, and return with them. 
 
 The Smok}" Hill, in flood, has all the characteristics of a great 
 river — rising day after day after the rain has ceased and the ground 
 become dry — and certainly this moruing it has the appearance of a 
 great river. Its heavy volume of water, of the same color as the Mis- 
 souri, rolls onward, in a smooth but by no means slow current. So 
 far as heard, the railroad has sustained no serious damage. This 
 flood is the greatest that has occurred on this river for nine years. 
 The Solomon, which comes in about twelve miles below, is higher 
 than it was ever known to be. 
 
 THE QUESTION OF ROUTES. 
 
 At this place the Santa Fe trade at present concentrates. TFagons 
 drawn by oxen, and manned by Mexicans, are almost continually to 
 be found at the railroad station. These Mexicans are singular-look- 
 ing beings, as swarthy as Indians, and many of them have the Indian 
 features more or less strongly marked. Hull, good-natured, but pro- 
 foundly ignorant, they move about their work like machines. They 
 are quite cheerful, and the soft and musical tones of their language or 
 patois are in strong contrast with the strong and harsh utterances of 
 their Anglo-Saxon brethren of the Denver trade. 
 
 I meet out here many intelligent men who are more or less familiar 
 with New Mexico. Although broken up by mountains, it has many very 
 fine valleys, fertile and beautiful, and they all unite in representing it 
 as immensely rich in minerals, especially gold and silver. But they 
 say that it is impossible that either the agricultural, the pastoral, or 
 the mineral wealth of that territory can ever be developed until it is 
 united with the rest of the country by rail. To work its mines 
 requires ponderous machinery, which it is simply impossible to trans- 
 port by the existing means of conveyance ; and even agriculture must 
 be carried on in the most primitive modes until a railway shall bring 
 the improved implements of the day into that isolated and benighted 
 region. 
 
 But even more important than all these is the opening of the 
 avenue through which shall flow into that degraded and dark- 
 minded population the lights of true Christian civilization. Both 
 priests and people have fallen so low that nothing but influences from 
 without can be instrumental in raising them up. They are now our 
 fellow-citizens, as well as our fellow-men, and as such they have claims 
 upon us which we may not lightly ignore. 
 
 With the lights we now have no one can pretend to estimate how 
 
THE QUESTION OF ROUTES. 
 
 23 
 
 important a member of this Union New Mexico may yet become, or to 
 calculate the vastness of its various resources. Neither can the value 
 of its trade be calculated — the enormous amount of machinery, of 
 agricultural implements, and in short, everything that a civilized 
 people need. 
 
 There is a strong desire on the part of the people on this side of the 
 Mississippi that the Union Pacific Eailway Company shall at once 
 extend their route into New Mexico, whether they go to Denver and 
 thence via Salt Lake City to California or not. They contend that 
 the route through New Mexico and Arizona will do infinitely more 
 to develop the resources of our great interior, as well as be a better 
 route to California, than the more direct but more mountainous line 
 by way of Salt Lake, and across the Sierra Nevada, far north of San 
 Francisco— that both the high mountain grades and the tremendous 
 snows of the other route will be avoided. They argue that, although 
 the road to San Francisco may be lengthened some hundreds of miles, 
 this will be more than compensated by the diminution of grade, the 
 avoidance of the snow, and by the fact that the road will touch the tide- 
 water of the Facific at at least two im'portant points before San Francisco is 
 reached — the head of the Gulf of California and San Diego^ a good port 
 on the coast of Southern California, more than four hundred miles 
 south of San Francisco. And when to these considerations the supe- 
 rior value of the intermediate country is added, it is insisted that 
 there ought to be no hesitation. Will the reader please refer to a 
 map and trace the routes here indicated, and judge for himself of the 
 soundness of these arguments ? 
 
 One thing is very certain ; Either the Government, aided by a com- 
 pany such as this, of able and energetic capitalists, must push a rail- 
 way through these vast regions, from the Missouri to the Pacific, or 
 they must lie undeveloped and unimproved from generation to gen- 
 eration. Individual energy and enterprise can never accomplish the 
 work. The locomotive must precede the plow, and the town the 
 farm. No farmer, however bold, but would recoil from the task of 
 going forward, as the farmers of the States east of the Mississippi 
 did, in advance of these mighty forces of civilized life. The old pro- 
 cesses must be reversed, as indeed they have been. I wish that all 
 the people who may read these words could see, as I have seen, the 
 strong and healthy stream of civilization following the line of this 
 road up through this most beautiful of valleys, and see and enjoy, as I 
 have seen and enjoyed, as high a civilization, as many of the elegant 
 creature comforts of life, and as pleasant and intelligent people, as are 
 to be found anywhere. The right plan of human progress has been 
 hit upon at last. 
 
24 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 There is not a work now in progress which so strongly commends 
 itself to the support of the American Congress and people as this 
 which so many of us went out to see Without a shadow of dissent 
 and with all the earnestness and eloquence of which the distinguished 
 excursionists were capable, they commended it to the country and its 
 legislative representatives. 
 
 LETTEE Y. — Frame Fogs — Bamhling Observations — Enterprise of 
 Chicago — Connection of Chicago with this State and Hoad. 
 
 Salina, Kansas, June 13, 1867. 
 
 PRAIRIE DOGS. 
 
 Everybody has heard of the curious little animals known by this 
 name ; but the term is altogether inapplicable, for the creature has 
 not a single feature or characteristic of the canine race about it, ex- 
 cept that it barks. Its bark, however, is that of the squirrel, not that 
 of the dog. It, like the squirrel and ma.rmot, belongs to the genus 
 rodentia, and lives altogether upon vegetable -food. Its color is a yel- 
 lowish brown; its form and head resemble those of the gray squirrel; 
 in size it is somewhat larger. Its ears look as if cropped off; its 
 tail is short, and its paws are like those of the squirrel, but admirably 
 adapted to burrowing in the ground. The expression of its counte- 
 nance, if I may so talk, is that of the squirrel, and its manifestations 
 of confidence, bordering on affection, when petted, are exactly like 
 those of the squirrel. In eating, it grasps its food between its paws 
 and nibbles it daintily, just as the squirrel does; and if corn is given, 
 of which it is fond, it bites out the soft germinating part, and throws 
 the flinty part away. 
 
 As our party came up the road, about halfway between Fort Eiley 
 and this place, while running over a broad prairie, we came to a place 
 called Abeliene, a hamlet of three or four houses and a country store. 
 The place is perhaps better known as Dogtown. Here the train 
 stopped, and our attention was directed to about a hundred little 
 mounds, in the top of each of which was a neat little hole running 
 down, at an angle of about forty-five degrees, deep into the ground. 
 On the top of each mound was one prairie-dog standing up on his 
 haunches, as erect as a grenadier, apparently on the lookout to see 
 what was coming. We all got out and approached the cluster of 
 mounds, which were all comprehended within a space of less than half 
 an acre. On our approach, all the “ dogs ” at once dived down into 
 their burrows with the speed of arrows, and disappeared. Presently 
 
EAMBLING OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 25 
 
 one fellow, bolder than his comrades, came up to the mouth of his 
 subterranean domicil and began to bark angrily at us, much as a very 
 small dog would do, which afforded a good deal of amusement. 
 Presently another appeared, who received his visitors with all the 
 politeness of which he was capable, and was rewarded for his confi- 
 dence with sundry bits of crackers, cakes and candy, with which he 
 appeared to be well pleased. In their eagerness to see it, many of 
 the party, especially the ladies, pressed closer and closer around. 
 This soon became too much for his courage, and he darted back into 
 his burrow. Hereupon Mr. Wells, of the Philadelphia Bulletin^ took 
 it upon him to be master of ceremonies, made a mock-heroic speech, 
 assuring “ the audience ” that it was essential, in a performance of 
 this kind, that the circle be fifty feet in diameter, and that he would 
 continue to “swing around the circle” until it had expanded to that 
 amount. This he did, talking as he went, and the thing was soon 
 accomplished. Then our little friend ventured out again, and ex- 
 hibited his courage and agility by dashing off from his place of refuge a 
 yard or two to pick up bits of cake. It was a pretty and unique 
 spectacle to see a circle of perhaps a hundred and fifty ladies and gen- 
 tlemen standing in a ring, gazing well pleased at the gambols of the 
 funny little animal. We stayed here about half an hour, and all the 
 time our angry one kept barking at us. 
 
 These “dogs” were about half domesticated, and were fed by the 
 families who live beside them, and it is probable that the young are 
 sold for pets. A member of our party asked one of the ladies resident 
 where they came from. “ Oh,” said she, “they were brought /rom the 
 WestB In another place we saw a similar village or colony, appar- 
 ently more numerous, in a perfectly wild state. They are exceed- 
 ingly gregarious, and, it is said, harmless. There is a notion widely 
 prevalent out here, that in every dog-hole are to be found a rattle- 
 snake and an owl ; but no one has ever been found who ever saw 
 the last two inhabitants in the burrow. The probability is that 
 the reptile and the bird are apt to be about in search of the young 
 “ dogs ” as prey. Whether their habitations communicate one with 
 another under ground, I could not find any one able to tell ; but proba- 
 bly they do. I was told by a young man that he poured one hundred 
 and thirty buckets of water into a hole before he forced a “ dog” to 
 come up. It then came and he caught it. 
 
 RAMBLING OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 There are birds here, but they are not very numerous. I have seen 
 some of beautiful plumage. When the country is settled, and trees 
 
26 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 become more numerous, they will multiply. There is a small species 
 of blackbird here, which is very useful in destroying insects, especially 
 grasshoppers, which are occasionally a great pest. This year there 
 are few, if any, up here, but down near the Missouri they are pretty 
 numerous. They have, however, not done any serious harm. 
 
 Eattlesnakos are somewhat numerous on “the plains” west of this; 
 but I have not seen any. I have been about as far west as the cele- 
 brated spot where our excursion friends of last fall killed the buffalo ; 
 but as the wave of civilized life, led on by the Union Pacific Eailway, 
 has rolled on about eighty miles since then, I did not expect to see 
 any. I, however, helped to eat a fresh one at Clear Creek, a little this 
 side of Fort Harker. The Indians and the buffaloes are rapidly melt- 
 ing away before the resistless march of a stronger race. Before this 
 mighty onward movement all that cannot be assimilated must be 
 destroyed. The buffalo cannot be domesticated, nor the Indian civil- 
 ized, so they are apparently alike devoted to extermination. Both 
 are surrounded ; the cordon of civilization is ju’essing closer and closer 
 around them, and the issue, so far as we can see, is as inevitable as 
 fate. In another letter I shall speak more fully on this painful sub- 
 ject; only remarking now, that, from all I hear, it will be more toler- 
 able in the day of judgment for the Indian, with all his savagery, 
 than for some white men whom our country has clothed with authority, 
 and into whose hands it has placed the destiny of these apparently 
 doomed wretches. 
 
 No part of the earth’s surface has ever passed so suddenly from the 
 condition of a vast, trackless, desolate abode of wild beasts and roving 
 savages to one of complete and beautiful Christian civilization as this; 
 and probably no other could have been so quickly transformed. As 
 it was in the primitive earth, God’s own hand has planted a garden 
 here, and all that is required of man is that he shall go in and occupy, 
 and dress it, and keep it. Here he is not called upon to wage a life- 
 long battle with heavy forests and perplexing brambles, for the land 
 is already a rich meadow, decked with flowers and ready for the 
 plough and the seed ; while the railway, sent here by the agency of 
 well-directed, yea. Heaven-directed enterprise, with its concomitants, 
 fills out all the material conditions required. Now let the Bible, with 
 its blessed influences, and living teachers of both schools and churches, 
 together with the press, be sent forward, and the old exploded myth 
 of an “ American desert ” will vanish even from the memory of men ; 
 for under the operation of the forces now in action, this long talked of 
 “ desert ” will soon blossom as the rose. Indeed, it is literally a flowery 
 desert now. 
 
CONNECTIONS OF CHICAGO WITH KANSAS. 
 
 27 
 
 THE ENTERPRISE OF CHICAGO. 
 
 It is a notable fact that all the active business men here hail from 
 Chicago, or somewhere on that social and commercial line. Many of 
 the stores are branches of commercial houses in that city. The for- 
 warding and commission merchants, who handle the Denver and 
 Santa Fe trades, are Chicago men ; and the wagons, reapers, mowers, 
 threshers, shovels, spades, hoes, cooking-stoves, and everything per- 
 taining to a farmer’s outfit — and there are more of these things here 
 than I ever saw in any town of its size — bear the same impress, and 
 are furnished by Chicago, or by New York or New England, through 
 Chicago. This I like to see, for it proves what I asserted strongly in 
 my correspondence last fall, that the Union Pacific Eailway of the 
 Kansas is the better avenue for the trade between the farthest East 
 and the farthest West. It proves, moreover, that already Chicago, 
 which has not yet a perfect connection by rail with this road, is in- 
 trenching itself strongly and firmly in this matchless garden of the 
 continent. It is through this avenue, and this only, that that city and 
 the great commercial cities of which' it is the outpost, can reach the 
 centre of Colorado, and the still more remote territories of New Mexico 
 and Arizona, and I am persuaded that it is destined to be their best 
 route to California. 
 
 At iDresent that trade is carried over the Chicago, Burlington and 
 Quincy Eailroad (the best road in Illinois) to Quincy ; thence across 
 the Mississippi to the Hannibal and St. Joseph road, which begins on 
 the opposite bank of the river, and runs to St. Joseph, on the Missouri. 
 Thence it goes by rail to Weston, six miles above Leavenworth. 
 From Weston to Leavenworth it is carried by steamers. At Leaven- 
 worth it meets one of the termini of the Union Pacific Eoad. In a 
 short time a branch road will be completed from Cameron (about fifty 
 miles east of St. Joseph) to the east branch of the Missouri, opposite 
 Leavenworth; and a bridge across the river to that city is the last 
 remaining link required to complete the long and direct chain between 
 Chicago and the Union Pacific Eailway of the Kansas. A branch 
 road from Cameron to Kansas City is also in progress of construction, 
 and another bridge is to be built across the Missouri at that point, 
 which is the main terminus of the Union Pacific. Thus two distinct 
 lines will unite the cities of the lakes, and through them all the rail- 
 road lines in and north of Pennsylvania, with this great continental 
 thoroughfare. They are now building a bridge over the Mississi2)pi 
 at Quincy. So, when all that is now in rapid progress shall be com- 
 pleted, cars may be run from any of the cities of the Atlantic coast to 
 
28 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 the Pacific without breaking bulk. Before five years more shall have 
 rolled round, that which lately seemed but an enthusiast’s dream will 
 be sober verity, an accomplished fact 
 
 I have said that I was pleased to see the energy of Chicago in 
 grasping this prize. It is eminently commendable ; and if the cities 
 along the other great line of the country’s commerce — beginning at 
 Philadelphia and ending at St. Louis — allow themselves to be out- 
 stripped, it is their own fault. This, however, 1 do not like to see. 
 Allow me to state frankly the result of my observation during the 
 past few days of constrained sojourn in this lively little border town, 
 which is for the present the commercial terminus of this road. 1 have 
 rambled through the closely packed warehouses of the railroad and 
 of the forwarding-houses, and one empty glass box, bearing the 
 stencil-mark of a Pittsburgh house, was the only evidence I met that 
 there was anything manufactured in our State. Ohio was represented 
 by some agricultural machinery. Even St. Louis had very little to 
 remind one that it is a great city, and that to its enterprise the coun- 
 try is mainly indebted for this magnificent thoroughfare into a vast 
 and prolific region, which, but for it, would afford no market to any- 
 body. 
 
 The magnitude of the trade on this road astonishes even those who 
 are building it. Its revenue during the month of May was over 
 $172,000, or at the rate of over $2,000,000 a year. A double track will 
 be needed through the valley of the Kansas long before the far distant 
 goal can be reached. 
 
 P. S. — In justice to our own State, I must not omit to mention the 
 fact that all the rails on this road, together with the locomotives and 
 cars, are of Pennsylvania manufacture. I only spoke above of the 
 commodities which enter into the general trade of the road. 
 
 LETTEE YI. — Water falling — A new Rotel — Return of three of the 
 Pond Creek Party — Observations upon the Country above. 
 
 Salina, Kansas, June 14, 1867. 
 
 I AM still here ; but as it is a very good place to see and hear what 
 is going on, to witness the vigorous workings of border life, I cannot 
 say that I regret my involuntary detention. I am comfortably fixed 
 at a respectable restaurant. We have a good table, clean and tidy 
 chambers, and pleasant and intelligent company. I tried the G-oddard 
 House about thirty-six hours, but that was enough. In a few weeks 
 
THE POND CKEEK PAKTY. 
 
 29 
 
 a new hotel, on strictly temperance principles, will be opened near the 
 railroad station at this place, by Mrs. Anne Bickerdyke and Mrs. 
 Greene. I made the acquaintance of both these ladies at the house 
 of Col. Phillips. Mrs. Bickerdyke’s name occupies a high j)lace as an 
 active and laborious Christian, and also among the “Women of the 
 War.” Her labors among the soldiers, in camp and hospital, were 
 long-continued and very efficient. I have read her biography, and 
 found it extremely interesting. Mrs. Greene is also an excellent lady. 
 Their house will be an acquisition to this town. 
 
 The “Smoky” continued to rise until Thursday morning, when it 
 began slowly to recede. Between this and Junction City some two or 
 three culverts and a little tressel-work were damaged, and as the river 
 has been up so long, it was impossible to make any repairs, and hence 
 the long delay. But for the water, a few hours would have sufficed to 
 have put the road in running order. I think the Company will now 
 raise the road-bed in a few places between Junction City and this 
 town. Above this it is all right, and below Junction City the trains 
 have run regularly. The flood in the Solomon and Saline w^as, I am 
 told, unprecedented. The Smoky Hill has not been so high since 1858. 
 
 To show how fast they do things here, I may mention that the 
 Methodist Society have reared a neat little meeting-house from the 
 foundation since I have been here, that is, this week, and expect to 
 hold a quarterly meeting in it on Sunday next. 
 
 The weather is quite warm. Hay before yesterday the thermometer 
 rose to 80 degrees. Yesterday it could not have been less than 90 
 degrees, and to-day it is equally high ; but the fine, fresh, invigorating 
 breeze prevents it from being oppressive. 
 
 Yesterday two of our friends of the excursion, Hon. J. L. Thomas, 
 M. C. of Maryland, and E. H. Kennedy, Esq., of Pittsburgh, came 
 down here — having left the party going to Pond Creek — and are now 
 water-bound like myself. They went as far as Big Creek, fifty miles 
 beyond Ellsworth. They represent it as a still better country than 
 that around Fort Harker and Ellsworth. The first day or two the 
 party were drenched with rain, but had very fine weather afterwards. 
 They had killed four buffaloes, one of which, a big bull, stood quite a 
 siege from the whole line before he succumbed. They left the rest of 
 the party, led and commanded hj General Hancock, well and in good 
 spirits. We shall return down the Kansas together. 
 
 This morning I had an interesting conversation with a man of con- 
 siderable intelligence and an accurate observer, who has spent some 
 time in the neighborhood of Big Creek, where the railroad line crosses 
 that stream and follows its valley for about twenty-five miles. This 
 
30 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 is nearly one hundred miles west of this place, and about one hundred 
 and fifty miles west of Fort E-iley. He represents it as a fine country. 
 The streams are well fringed with ash, elm and black walnut. There 
 is but little cottonwood. The ash are large and straight. One man 
 is making preparations to put in a crop of fall wheat, and has expecta- 
 tion of a good yield. The soil being deep, no apprehension is felt of a 
 lack of moisture. My own impression is, after a careful examination 
 of the deep brown soil of those “plains,^’ fairly within the butfalo 
 grass region, that with deep ploughing it is admirably adapted to the 
 cultivation of winter wheat. Spring wheat, I think, would not suc- 
 ceed. The prairie is hard to break up. The ground is remarkably 
 solid, and is scarcely affected at all by frost; and what renders the 
 first ploughing more difficult is a plant which grows abundantly, called 
 the “ Devil’s shoe-string,” the long, lateral roots of which are so tough 
 that they can neither be cut nor broken with the plough. The only 
 way is to run under the tuft and heave it all over. After that it causes 
 no further trouble. 
 
 Since I saw that gentleman I have conversed with Mr. E. Honek, 
 who has resided over a year on Spring Creek, a small stream nine 
 miles west of Salina, on the “ divide,” between this and Fort Harker, 
 and on this brown soil of which I have spoken. He, too, is making 
 preparations to put in a crop of winter wheat, and is confident of suc- 
 cess. He has been in this country for twelve years, and appears to be 
 a man of good sense and close observation. He has not yet tried 
 fruit-growing ; but he told me of a peach orchard which he had seen 
 some miles southeast of this, on an elevated part of the plains, which 
 was very healthy and flourishing. Here, and in every part of Kansas 
 east of this, all the fruit-trees I have seen are very luxuriant. At the 
 Pottawatomie Mission, below Fort Biley, I saw as beautiful peach-trees 
 as ever I saw anywhere, heavily laden with young fruit. 
 
 I have no wish to induce men to buy up these buffalo-grass regions 
 for farming purposes until all their characteristics and conditions shall 
 be more fully known. But from all I have seen and heard, I am per- 
 suaded that this remote portion of our national domain, comprehend- 
 ing hundreds of thousands of square miles, which we have heretofore 
 heard of only as “ the plains,” and as “ the buffalo region,” will be 
 found to be valuable land, well adapted to be the habitation of civil- 
 ized people, and far more salubrious than any territory we have yet 
 occupied. I believe that population will rapidly follow this railroad 
 and its branches, and that Covernment lands, hitherto utterly value- 
 less, will be eagerly occupied as homesteads, or bought up. I say 
 population w\\\ follow this railroad. It cannot precede it; for even the 
 
ARRIVAL AT LAWRENCE. 
 
 31 
 
 dwelling of the settler must be carried forward. The log-cabin can 
 never be an institution here, and the ranch is no place for women 
 and children. Let the Government, then, by generous subsidies, push 
 on this great work, and every dollar expended will be returned four- 
 fold in national wealth and national revenue within the present gen- 
 eration. Even were there no San Francisco, no California, no Pacific 
 Ocean to reach at the other end, the building of this road would be a 
 wise and beueficent measure, and an enduring crown of glory to the 
 men who shall accomplish it, whether in their capacity of statesmen 
 or of capitalists, and to the generation in which it shall be consum- 
 mated. 
 
 LETTEK YII . — Arrival at Lawrence — Flood in the Smoky Hill and 
 
 Kansas. 
 
 Lawrence, Kansas, June 20, 1867. 
 
 I ARRIVED at this beautiful and historic little city yesterday after- 
 noon, as I am slowly heading eastward. Of this jilace I shall speak at 
 another time. 
 
 FLOOD IN THE SMOKY HILL AND KANSAS. 
 
 On the afternoon of Friday, the 7th, just after the main body of our 
 party, including all the ladies, had left some twenty of us at Fort 
 Harker, over 220 miles west of the Missouri, we had a very violent 
 hurricane. About midnight we had another. General Hancock told 
 me that in twenty-five years’ experience on the plains he had never 
 witnessed so heavy a gale as that of the afternoon. But of this bois- 
 terous night I think I have already spoken. 
 
 I left Fort Harker about eight o’clock on Saturday morning, and 
 reached Salina in the afternoon in the contractor’s car attached to a 
 construction train — very pleasant, but slow. I dined in the car with 
 R. H. Shoemaker, Esq., and other gentlemen, to whom I am indebted 
 for many courtesies. But the heavy rain of Friday night, and the 
 almost unparalleled torrents of Saturday, flooded the country and 
 turned every channel of surface water into an improvised river. I 
 never saw such rain as that. 
 
 I could go no further than Salina that evening. A train attempted 
 to go down on Sunday morning, but was partially wrecked at a broken 
 culvert a few miles below town, and the few passengers had to get 
 back the best way they could. I did not attempt it, hoping that the 
 regular train would be able to go out on Monday morning. But in 
 this I was disappointed. It was not the swellings of the Smoky Hill 
 that prevented the train from running on Monday, but the unexampled 
 
32 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 rise of the lateral streams below Salina — the Saline, the Solomon and 
 others. Afterwards the overflowings of the “ Smoky ” prevented the 
 damage done by the smaller streams from being repaired. 'No bridges 
 were carried away. That over the Saline was saved by running a 
 train, laden with one hundred and flfty tons of railroad iron, upon it. 
 
 On Sunday the Smoky Hill began to swell rapidly, and continued to 
 rise steadily until Thursday, although on Sunday the weather had 
 changed, and become as dry and fine as I ever saw it. For several 
 days the flats in many places were covered from bluff to bluff. The 
 town of Salina was not overflowed, but it stood on a large island. 
 Now for the results. 
 
 I have said that no bridges were carried away. The culverts were 
 but slightly damaged. Above Salina the track of the road was over- 
 flowed but a short distance, for it soon rises to higher ground. Be- 
 tween Salina and Junction City, a distance of fifty miles, over which 
 we passed on Saturday last, (having been shut in at Salina from the 
 Saturday previous,) some six or eight miles of the track was or had 
 been submerged. In two places we ran through shallow lakes each 
 about a mile across, and in length the entire width of the valley from 
 bluff to bluff — perhaps two or three miles. It was romantic, although 
 by no means safe, travelling. A construction train preceded us, care- 
 fully examining and repairing as it went. I never saw men work so 
 hard, so faithfully and so cheerfully as did these. The main trouble 
 was that the waves, raised by the wind on these broad expanses of 
 overflowed water, washed the embankments and undermined the road- 
 bed ; and in many places the track had to be propped up, although 
 yet submerged, with ties and blocks. Finally, when within four or 
 five miles of Junction City, the front passenger-car — the one I was 
 in — ran off the track ; but as we were going very slowly there was no 
 harm done and no shock. The water was then about a foot over the 
 track. We all managed to crowd into the baggage-car, and the ma- 
 jority contrived to get something to sit upon. 
 
 While in the baggage-car, and all being pleased, grateful and in the 
 best possible humor, the Hon. John L. Thomas, of Baltimore, one of 
 our excursionists, proposed that the hearty thanks of the passengers 
 be tendered to E. C. Smead, Esq., the Eesident Engineer of the road, 
 and to the men under his command, for the courage, skill and indom- 
 itable perseverance with which they had grappled with and overcome 
 the difficulties that beset our way. And in language less demonstra- 
 tive, but not less sincere, many uttered their acknowledgments to Him 
 who keeps us in all our ways. About nine o’clock we arrived safely 
 at Junction City. 
 
FLOOD IN THE SMOKY HILL AND KANSAS. 
 
 33 
 
 Below JuDction City — at which place the Eepublican, uniting with 
 the Smoky Hill, together form the Kansas, or the Kaw, as it is more 
 frequently called here, and below which the channel is much wider — 
 the flood did no harm to the road. In the fifty miles between Junc- 
 tion City and Salina, about eight miles of the road-bed will have to be 
 more or less elevated. Some say the flood of 1858 was equal to this; 
 others say it was not. 
 
 The Senatorial party reached Junction City on Thursday ; but the 
 same cause which kept me from getting down prevented them from 
 getting up; so, of course, I did not succeed in joining them. They 
 returned on Friday, greatly pleased with the country, the railway 
 and the people. Messrs. Wade, Covode and others spoke at Lawrence, 
 Manhattan and Junction City. The free air of Kansas would be 
 wholesome to such lungs as theirs. But as I have not thought it 
 necessary to be careful to gather up the incidents of their trip, such 
 things not being the subject of my letters, I shall not attempt to tell 
 what they did or said. The only disappointment I have felt since I 
 left was my inability to join them at Leavenworth as intended. 
 
 This flood will be advantageous to this railroad, as it will afford 
 known high-water marks to guide the engineers in their future opera- 
 tions, which they have not heretofore had. The alterations needed 
 in the portion of the road already laid, can be made at a compara- 
 tively trifling cost. Although it was not so pleasant to myself to be 
 water-bound at Salina, as it would have been to have joined the 
 Senatorial party, I cannot say that I regret it, for it gav^ me an op- 
 portunity of seeing for myself how the road stood this trying ordeal. 
 Moreover, it held me for a week at that stirring town, at what is yet 
 the extreme border of settlement — a far better point of observation 
 of the great onward march than any of the lower towns would have 
 been. 
 
 While at Salina I was joined by three of my friends of the excur- 
 sion, who had started from Fort Harker with the party to Pond Creek, 
 two hundred miles further up the Smoky Hill. Hon. J. M. Thomas, 
 of Baltimore, E. H. Kennedy, Esq., of Pittsburgh, and Mr. Eenwick, 
 of Detroit. They went as far as Big Creek, about sixty miles ; but 
 as the progress of the party was impeded by the swollen streams, they 
 felt constrained to return by stage. They bore a part in the chase 
 and slaughter of four butfaloes, their narration of which exploits were 
 rich indeed. Big Creek had been enormously swollen, and so sudden 
 was the rise that five soldiers and two citizens were surrounded by 
 the waters and drowned at Fort Hays. Gen. Hancock, on his arrival, 
 ordered the location to be changed to higher ground. 
 
 3 
 
34 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 1 have thought it worth while to be thus particular in speaking of 
 this extraordinary flood, because of its bearing upon the Union Paciflc 
 Eailway, and to correct any exaggerated reports which, perchance, 
 may be set afloat. 
 
 P. S. — Already five construction trains are at work on those parts 
 of the road found to be too low, and in a few days all will be better 
 than ever, and the regular trade resumed. 
 
 LETTER YIII. — Trees in Kansas. 
 
 Lawrence, June 21, 1867. 
 
 TREES IN KANSAS. 
 
 In the greater part of this State, except along the margins of the 
 watercourses, there is very little timber; but along the streams it 
 grows with great luxuriance. The main part is cottonwood, a variety 
 of poplar, and perhaps one of the poorest varieties. The tree often 
 grows to a large size, and is much used for the manufacture of rough 
 lumber, such as joists, rafters, scantling, fencing-boards, and often it 
 is used for partitions, and even siding and floors in the rougher and 
 cheaper kinds of houses. It is almost impossible to plane it. In fact, 
 nothing but the axe and saw can work it up. The trunks of the trees 
 are generally cut into saw-logs, and the branches into cord-wood. It 
 is rarely split, for the woody fibre is interlaced almost as much as 
 gum, and is nearly as tough as the fibre of hemp. It is not often that 
 a piece long enough for a common saw-log can be obtained without 
 more or less crooks in it. There are many saw-mills, all of which use 
 the circular saw exclusively. Sometimes two saws are used, so that 
 when large logs are operated upon, the upper one cuts what the lower 
 one cannot reach. Cottonwood is wholly unfit for posts, railroad ties, 
 or any use which brings it in contact with the soil, as it quickly rots 
 in such situations; but if kept dry, it is for many purposes a strong, 
 useful wood. Cottonwood boards make pretty good fences, but their 
 tendency to warp often causes them to break the nails. 
 
 The cottonwood is of very rapid growth. It is often planted for 
 purposes of shade and ornament. The denseness and deep shining 
 green of its foliage make it one of the most beautiful trees, when 
 standing out in open places, I ever saw. Early in June it ripens its 
 seed, which are quite small, and each seed is winged with a small tuft 
 of downy fibre like cotton, which bears it for miles on the wind. 
 Hence the name of cottonwool. 
 
 Next to the cottonwood, the black walnut is the important timber 
 
TREES IN KANSAS. 
 
 35 
 
 of this country, and is probably next to it in abundance. It is used 
 for everything from furniture to fence-rails. It grows large and quite 
 as straight as in the Eastern States. It is found most plentiful in the 
 neighborhood of the larger streams. 
 
 *The oak, in its several varieties, is found here; but although I 
 have seen a few fine specimens, it has not done well as a natural 
 production. But the trouble has been that in the only places 
 where it could flourish — the high open ground — no trees could get 
 in for the prairie fires. As a cultivated tree, the oak will do well 
 here. 
 
 I have seen some hickory down near the Missouri, and some ash. 
 Away out on the plains, far beyond Fort Harker, the ash grows large 
 and straight, and is a valuable tree. There are no chestnuts. 
 
 Wild fruit-trees are very abundant, especially plums, haws, paw- 
 paws, gooseberries, and wild grapes. Beyond Salina, far out in the 
 bulfalo grass region, the plums are said to be very fine. I saw some 
 of these native plums in the garden of Judge Smith, of this city, 
 which were very beautiful both as trees and fruit. The plums hang 
 in clusters like large, open bunches of grapes. He said they are very 
 good when ripe. 
 
 I have never seen apple-trees and peach-trees flourish as they do 
 here, and this year the fruit crop is abundant in proportion to the 
 number of trees. There are not as many fruit-trees as there ought to 
 be. I am told that in the early settlement of the State it was given 
 out as a settled fact that fruit would not succeed in Kansas. Proba- 
 bly the thing was said more to justify improvidence and neglect 
 than anything else ; but it seems that the croakers had it their own 
 way for a time, and the introduction of fine fruit was retarded. How, 
 however, the tide appears to have turned the other way, as numerous 
 flourishing young orchards attest. 
 
 Grapes do admirably here. I met a Mr. Burns at Manhattan, twenty 
 miles east of Fort Filey, who is well known in Pittsburgh. He has 
 located himself a few miles distant from that beautiful town, and 
 devoted his time, his labor and talent exclusively to the culture of the 
 vine. He has many varieties, all of which do well. As he is a lite- 
 rary man, his publications on that subject are valuable, and his labors 
 will doubtless result ere long in clothing many of these beautiful 
 slopes in vineyards. I measured a grape-leaf in Judge Smith’s 
 garden. It was twelve and a half inches wide, and twelve from 
 head to point. 
 
 The locust grows here with great vigor, but the borer is severe 
 upon them. I think crude petroleum, applied to the bole and larger 
 
36 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 branches, would cure this evil. If that pest could be overcome, mib 
 lions of these valuable trees might be reared at a trifling expense of 
 land and labor. Indeed, the land would be better for their presence. 
 Growing as they do here, they are very beautiful. 
 
 But of all the cultivated trees I have seen in this State, the soft 
 maple is the most luxuriant and the most beautiful. They are planted 
 by thousands in both town and country. 
 
 Osage orange hedges abound, and are in the highest degree success- 
 ful. Judge Bailey, of the Supreme Court, who is himself a farmer, told 
 me yesterday that they can be made at an expense of less than fifty 
 cents a perch. In about four years they are sufficiently grown to be a 
 protection against animals. In the meantime, a fence of some other 
 kind is required. Animals do not, or, rather, cannot eat the orange. 
 Its strong, sharp thorns protect it. 
 
 I have never seen in Kansas a tree that had been uprooted by the 
 wind. I mentioned this to one of the oldest citizens, and he said that, 
 although he had never thought of it before, he was unable to call to 
 mind a single instance in which he had seen a tree that had been blown 
 “ out of root.’^ The reason of this is quite obvious. The soil is so deep 
 that trees of all kinds strike their roots so far down that it is impos- 
 sible for any amount of force that the tree could bear to heave up the 
 huge mass of soil which they embrace. But neither have I in a single 
 instance seen a tree which had been broken by the wind. This may be 
 accounted for from the fact that the trees of this country having to 
 withstand a strong breeze almost every day, grow more sturdy than 
 they do with us ; and hence even a gale or a hurricane cannot break 
 them. Young fruit-trees require to be securely staked till they are 
 well rooted. After that they appear to stand up as well, and are as 
 symmetrical, as I ever saw trees anywhere. Peach-trees form their 
 heads more beautifully in Kansas than in any part of the eastern 
 States that I have visited, and this year the crop is very abundant. 
 Most of the early settlers were negligent in this matter, so that at 
 this time the market is not one quarter supplied, and men could do 
 well to go largely into the business yet. 
 
 Mr. Burns, who probably knows more about the matter than any 
 other now in Kansas, assured me confidently that in no part of the 
 United States except Southern California did the vine grow so well 
 and bear its fruit so abundantly and surely as in Kansas. And he 
 gave a reason for it. The abundant rains of April, May, and part of 
 June give them a fine start ; then the warm, dry, and pure atmosphere 
 of the subsequent months secures the ripening of the grapes both 
 richly and soundly. When the rich flats of the valley of the Kansas 
 
TEEES IN KANSAS. 
 
 87 
 
 shall be a succession of farms, the fields enclosed with stone walls or 
 hedges as the proprietors please, and its bluffs of every imaginable 
 form of grace and beauty shall be clad in vines, as they will be, it will 
 probably be the most enchanting valley on this planet. 
 
 For more than two hundred miles the Union Pacific Eailway passes 
 through the midst of this paradisiacal scene, which hardly for a moment 
 is hid from view in all its amplitude and grandeur. Why, it will be 
 worth a journey from Pennsylvania just to see it. 
 
 The cedar grows well here. In the valleys beyond Fort Harker it 
 is indigenous and in places abundant. The black walnut abounds from 
 the mouth of the Kansas as far as I can hear anything about. Every 
 farmer knows what kind of soil that indicates. 
 
 From my own observation, and from conversations with others, I 
 am satisfied that the only thing that prevented these vast prairies 
 from being wooded are the annual fires that sweep through the dry 
 grass. Where they have been stopped even for a year or two, young 
 trees spring up spontaneously. This I have seen in many places; and 
 hence I believe that in twenty years there will be far more wood here 
 than there is now. But it is not as scarce now as many people sup- 
 pose. The other day I went to visit a woollen factory in this city — 
 of which I shall have something to say in another place. The pro- 
 prietor with whom I rode pointed out a range of several hundred 
 cords of good wood, which he told me he laid in last winter at four 
 dollars a cord. One fact like this is worth more than a page of ab- 
 stract terms expressive of abundance or scarcity. 
 
 In some places I observed that sumach was springing up and over- 
 spreading the ground with great rapidity. To the mere farmer this 
 is a pest ; but the richness of this shrub in the tannin principle may 
 render it a source of wealth. 
 
 So much for the trees and fruits and the shrubs of this extraordinary 
 State. I shall, I know, be pardoned for dwelling so long upon them ; 
 for to the practical man who may have thoughts of emigrating, 
 nothing can be more interesting. 
 
 LETTER IX . — Mineral Resources of Kansas — Magnesian Limestone, its 
 abundance and its excellence as a Building Material — Other Varieties 
 of Stone — Marble. — General Remarks. 
 
 St. Louis, June 25, 1867. 
 
 I ARRIVED in this city on Saturday morning from Kansas, and here I 
 intend to remain for a few days. In some respects this is a better 
 
88 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 staDdpoint from which to view the great trans-Mississippi region 
 than any other. It is its natural metropolis ; but I saw enough while 
 far up the Kansas and the Smoky Hill to satisfy me that St. Louis 
 will have a hard and wholesome struggle for the trade of the mighty 
 and matchless empire which is springing up behind her. Here, almost 
 literally, a nation is born in a day, and the region through which I 
 have just been travelling is very nearly as accessible to Chicago as to 
 St. Louis, and to New York as to Pennsylvania. 
 
 I propose now to speak of the 
 
 MINERAL RESOURCES OE KANSAS. 
 
 Until I visited the State, my impression was that, although Kansas 
 was very beautiful and very fertile, its mineral resources did not 
 amount to much. I was not even aware, until I came out last fall, 
 that it has more abundant, cheaper, and better building stone than 
 any other State in the Union can boast; and the best of it is, that 
 these stone do not at all mar the soil or break the face of the country. 
 In my letters last fall I spoke briefly of these regular and far extended 
 quarries of magnesian limestone; but as I have given the subject 
 more close attention on this more leisurely excursion, I beg leave to 
 return to the subject. 
 
 In the neighborhood of Lawrence, forty miles above the mouth of 
 the Kansas, this stone exists in abundance, but the quality, as a build- 
 ing material, is inferior. The strata are thin and the color is not 
 pretty. At Topeka, twenty miles further up, the quality is greatly 
 better, and many very handsome dwellings are to be seen in and 
 around that city constructed of it. It underlies all the upper surface 
 of the country, and crops out of the faces of the bluffs with such regu- 
 larity that it might be mistaken at a distance for tolerably well laid 
 artificial walls of range work. 
 
 As we ascend the river it becomes better and better. At Manhattan, 
 a pretty and flourishing town at the mouth of the Big Blue river, it is 
 surpassingly beautiful, of a very light, delicate and lively stone color, 
 and is so abundant, and so easily quarried and worked, that it is 
 cheaper as a building material than either brick or frame. It is 
 harder than at Fort Eiley and Junction City, so that, although it 
 works easily under the hammer and chisel, they do not attempt to 
 saw it like timber, as they do at the latter places. I, however, prefer 
 the color of the Manhattan stone to any I ever saw. At Manhattan 
 it is something like the color of diluted milk; at Junction City it is 
 more like cream. But I suppose it is a matter of taste. 
 
 From some distance below Fort Eiley to a still greater distance 
 
MINERAL RESOURCES OF KANSAS. 
 
 39 
 
 above Junction City-— how many miles I cannot say — an enormous 
 and solid stratum of this rock extends, in some places over six feet 
 thick, and so soft that they cut it with axes in the quarry, and saw it 
 into any forms they please with toothed saws, just as timber is sawed. 
 Yet when exposed to the atmosphere for a while, it becomes almost as 
 hard as marble and quite as indestructible. As to this last and most 
 important fact I might have hesitated to take the words of the people 
 there, who are very enthusiastic on the subject, and who think that 
 they have an inexhaustible mine of wealth in that rock, had I not 
 seen the angles of the stratum, as its face protruded from the face of 
 the blulf, as sharp as ever, although they had withstood the beatings 
 of the elements for centuries 
 
 A company, with a capital of $40,000, has just been organized at 
 Junction City to saw up this stone, and otherwise work it into any 
 and every form which the market may call for. The President of the 
 Company told me that they proposed to saw it into slabs for flooring, 
 one and a half inches thick, and into tiles for roofing, three quarters 
 thick, and that they would turn it into any form which a lathe could 
 give to wood or metal. 1 believe this enterprise will be a success, I 
 saw some very large blocks of this stone at Topeka, on the ground 
 where they are just beginning to erect the State Capitol. It will 
 probably be one of the most beautiful structures in the country, but by 
 no means the most expensive. This stone is practically inexhaustible, 
 and will furnish a large item of transportation to the U. P. Eailway. 
 
 While at Junction City two tall, slender chimney-tops were pointed 
 out to me. They were built of thin blocks or slabs, set on edge— -four 
 making a round — cut out, as I was told, with a common hand-saw. 
 They fitted so nicely that the joints were scarcely perceptible at the 
 distance I stood, and the whole had the appearance of slender marble 
 shafts. Mr. Martin, editor of ‘‘ The Junction City Daily Union” (an 
 energetic and enterprising Pennsylvanian, a good man, and one whose 
 life is likely to be a success,) had a block of this stone in his ofiice 
 on which he showed me, by practical test, how a hand-saw operated. 
 It cut into it rapidly and smoothly, although the block had become 
 somewhat hardened by exposure to the atmosphere. Most of the 
 buildings in Junction City are of this stone, which gives to that new 
 place a very substantial and handsome appearance. For size and 
 finish some of the stores would appear well in any city. 
 
 Some miles above Junction City — how far exactly I cannot say — 
 the stone of the valley changes from lime to sand, and there is also a 
 perceptible change in the soil, although it continues to be equally rich. 
 At Salina, fifty miles above Junction City, they have abundance of 
 
40 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 excellent building-stone — a fine-grained, compact sandstone. Lime- 
 stone also exists in abundance on the higher grounds. About twenty 
 miles beyond Salina, where we stopped for an hour or two on our way 
 down, I saw on the opposite side of a small creek, about half a mile 
 south of the road, a bold rocky bluff. I walked across the intervening 
 prairie, which was like a flower-garden, as near to the bluff as I could 
 get for the stream. I found it to be a solid mass of rock — I think it 
 w^as sand — of straight and beautiful cleavage, thirty or forty feet 
 thick. It was building-stone of excellent quality. Beyond that is the 
 brown sandstone of which I spoke in a former letter, and which 
 abounds about Fort Harker and Ellsworth. Professor Mudge, of the 
 Kansas State Agricultural College, and State Geologist for 1864, speak- 
 ing of this beautiful stone, told me that it belonged to the same geo- 
 logical era as the red sandstone of Connecticut, so largely used for 
 architectural purposes in Kew York, and is, like that stone, often found 
 marked with the tracks of large birds of a former period. 
 
 Limestone is found in many places far beyond Fort Harker, and is 
 probably abundant in all parts of the State. The lime made of that 
 of which I have spoken more particularly is white and of excellent 
 quality. 
 
 Marble, white, black and variegated, exists in many places and in 
 boundless quantity in the southern parts of the State. The white 
 is said to be pure, of an excellent quality and susceptible of fine 
 polish. I saw no specimens; but at Lawrence a polished specimen, of 
 black marble, taken from a quarry near Fort Scott, near the south- 
 eastern corner of the State, was shown me, which for lustre and fine- 
 ness of grain I have never seen excelled. It is somewhat harder than 
 any other American marble I have seen except the Potomac variety, 
 which is rather a conglomerate than a marble. For mantles, time- 
 pieces, &c., this Fort Scott marble would be admirable. There will 
 soon be a connection by rail between Fort Scott and its circumjacent 
 region and the Union Pacific. 
 
 But why, it may be asked, have I dwelt so long upon the single sub- 
 ject of the stone of this country that there is no room in this letter 
 for the coal, the salt, the gypsum and the metals? I have done so, 
 because stone is now and must ever be the principal building-material 
 in Kansas. The cities of Leavenworth and Lawrence are mainly 
 built of brick ; but beyond these, where stone becomes more excellent 
 in quality, and the clay less suitable for brick-making, but few brick 
 buildings are seen. Even at Topeka the few brick houses to be seen 
 attest that the business of brick-making is a failure. At Salina a few 
 brick have been made ; but when thoroughly burned they more 
 
MINERAL RESOURCES OF KANSAS. 
 
 41 
 
 resemble stone in color than ordinary brick. But as wood is scarce and 
 stone plenty, and good, and easily quarried, the latter must ever be 
 the cheaper material. Frame houses are costly, because much of the 
 lumber must be brought from St. Louis or Chicago. But the Grreat 
 Dispenser of blessings and benefits, if He has withheld some things 
 deemed essential to human comfort and well-being, has supplied with 
 a lavish hand other things even better. And when Kansas shall be 
 fully occupied, no people in this Union will have more beautiful or 
 more comfortable dwellings. 
 
 Of the other mineral resources of this State — which, in the language 
 of Professor Mudge’s Eeport, contains 78,418 square miles, is ten 
 times the area of Massachusetts, one-sixth larger than Missouri, and 
 about one-third larger than England — the extent and importance of 
 which astonished me, I shall speak more fully in my next letter. 
 
 LETTEE X . — ‘Mineral Resources of Kansas^ continued — Goal — Salt — 
 Gypsum ^ — Alum — Iron. 
 
 St. Louis, June 26, 1867. 
 
 COAL. 
 
 As no coal is yet mined in Kansas, except in a few places in the 
 southern counties, I cannot pretend to speak on this topic from my 
 own observation. I shall therefore draw largely from the report of 
 Prof. B. E. Mudge, State G-eologist, printed in 1866. I had a long and 
 interesting conversation with that gentleman at the State Agricul- 
 tural College, near Manhattan, twenty miles this side of Fort Eiley. 
 His views, as expressed in his report, have been but slightly modified 
 by his subsequent observations. Under the head of “ Coal Measures,” 
 he says : 
 
 “ The lowest geological formation known in Kansas is represented 
 by the upper portion of the Coal Measures. It is a continuation of 
 the coal field which covers the northeastern part of Missouri and the 
 southern part of Iowa, and also extends into the Indian territory 
 south of this State. Like the deposits of those States, the dip of the 
 strata here is to the northwest, passing at a low angle of inclination 
 under the Permian, Triassic and other later stratifications. The Coal 
 Measures cover a larger area of the State than any other formation, 
 being nearly one-third of the whole. The fossils of this epoch are 
 formed all over the eastern part of Kansas, and exist as far as Fort 
 Eiley. 
 
 “ The line which separates the Coal Measures from the Permian 
 runs rather irregularly in a northeasterly and southwesterly direction. 
 Considering Fort Eiley as on the line of average extent westerly, we 
 
42 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 shall have (in the width of the State) the territory of the coal lands, 
 308 miles in length by 107 in average breadth, which gives an area 
 of 22,256 square miles 
 
 “ The Coal Measures here have undergone little change, and lie 
 nearly in their natural position. They dip on the average, as before 
 stated, slightly to the northwest. In some parts of the State this in- 
 clination cannot be seen, and in some instances there is an anticlinal 
 ridge or dip in the opposite direction 
 
 “ It will be seen that this small disturbance of the strata is very 
 favorable to the opening of coal shafts. No ‘faults’ will be found in 
 the beds, and the probability of reaching the coal at reliable depths at 
 any given point will be nearly certain. It also gives us a larger area 
 of the coal field, as a higher inclination would soon carry the heads 
 too deep for mining. 
 
 “ This portion of the State also shows a great uniformity of the 
 strata. About one-fourth of the whole deposit is limestone. South 
 of the Kansas river the strata show an increase of thickness, particu- 
 larly in the shales, accompanied with a slight increase of dip. This 
 increase of thickness is very marked in Miami county, as developed 
 by the oil and salt borings. 
 
 “It is well understood that the extreme upper portion of the coal 
 measures does not contain coal of the first quality, or seams of much 
 thickness. Those peculiarly favorable conditions of climate, &c., 
 which were so important for the accumulation of vast amounts of 
 vegetable matter, had begun to change, so that the coal was small in 
 quantity and poor in quality. A fine illustration of this passing away 
 of the peculiarities of the vegetation of the coal period is to be seen in 
 the banks of the Neosho, about three miles from Council G-rove. It 
 consists of a stratum of shale, two feet in thickness, full of the remains 
 of the vegetation of the period, but accompanied by a singular com- 
 mingling of the materials with the mineral substances, and the vege- 
 tation shows less of the transformation from its original state than 
 that of the true coal beds.” 
 
 Professor Mudge then gives in detail a report of the borings for 
 coal at Leavenworth, which proved successful. The parties are now 
 engaged in sinking a shaft preparatory to practical and extensive 
 mining. From it I gather that 142 feet of the strata passed through 
 were above the level of the Missouri river, and 230 feet below, when 
 a vein of bituminous shale and coal 94 feet thick was reached. At 
 116 feet below the level of the river, a vein of slate and coal was per- 
 forated ) but as the second vein is known to be greatly superior, little 
 attention was paid to it. This second vein is known to be the same 
 that is largely worked on the line of the Hannibal and St. Joseph 
 Eailroad, some fifty or sixty miles east of Saint Joseph, in Northern 
 Missouri, and which I examined with some attention when I was 
 there last fall. The vein there is about six feet thick, and is, I think, 
 between one and two hundred feet below the surface. The coal 
 
MINERAL RESOURCES OF KANSAS — SALT. 
 
 43 
 
 looked very well, and much of it was brought up in large cubular 
 blocks, like our Pittsburgh coal. Professor Mudge says this vein 
 varies in thickness from five feet to six feet nine inches. 
 
 At Lawrence I visited, in company with Judge Bailey, of the Su- 
 preme Court, — to whom I am indebted not only for kind attentions, 
 but for much valuable information, — an establishment on the bank of 
 the Kansas, at the lower end of that city, where they are busily en- 
 gaged in boring for coal by steam-power — using ap,paratus and going 
 down at a rate that could hardly be beaten in our oil regions — averaging 
 ten feet per day. When we were there, they had got down between 
 three and four hundred feet. They are confident of success, but may 
 have to go a thousand feet. 
 
 I did not hear of any other borings being in progress. In some 
 places in the southern counties coal crops out of the surface, and in 
 the Indian Territory south of Kansas, the above-mentioned heavy 
 vein crops out, and coal is as plenty as it is in Western Pennsylvania. 
 
 [Since this was written, a vein of coal of good quality, three feet in 
 thickness, has been discovered in the face of the bluff on the south side 
 of the Smoky Hill, a few miles west of Fort Harker, by Mr. Shoe- 
 maker, one of the chief contractors on the Union Pacific Eoad.] 
 
 SALT. 
 
 It will perhaps be new to most of the readers of the Gazette to be 
 informed that salt enough can be made in Kansas to supply the entire 
 country west of the Mississippi. Professor Mudge dwells at great 
 length upon the subject. He speaks of many springs and salt marshes, 
 one of the former of which is near Leavenworth. I make a short 
 quotation ; — 
 
 “ The great supply of salt which is to meet the demand for Kansas 
 and the neighboring States lies at various points in a tract of country 
 about thirty-five miles wide and eighty long, crossing the Eepublican, 
 Solomon and Saline valleys. [This is north and west of Salina, where 
 I was water-bound for a week.] The signs of the deposit are seen in 
 numerous springs, but more frequently in extensive salt marshes. A 
 description of one of these marshes will be good for large numbers of 
 them, as they are very similar in their formation and appearance. 
 Take that in township 4, range 2, west of the sixth principal meridian 
 in the Eepublican valley, about seventy-five miles northwest of Fort 
 Eiley. It is sometimes called the Tuthill marsh. The valley here is 
 wide, gradually rising to the high prairies so common in that part of 
 the State. The marsh covers nearly one thousand acres more or less 
 impregnated with saline matter. About one-third is entirely void of 
 vegetation, which the brine will not allow to grow. It is perfectly 
 level ; and at the time of our first visit was as white as a wintry snow- 
 field with a crust of crystallized salt. The marsh is of recent alluvial 
 
44 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 formation, composed of sand and loam, from twenty to thirty feet in 
 thickness, brought down by the wash from the high prairies, which 
 rise gradually on three sides. In this alluvium, at various depths, are 
 found the bones of butfalo, deer, and antelope, who have probably 
 made this a resort for salt for long ages past, as they are seen to do at 
 the present time. Underlying this is the Triassic rock, which in Eu- 
 rope furnishes so much salt that it is termed the Saliferous system. 
 
 “The incrustation of salt” (the Professor continues) “is frequently 
 three eighths of an inch in thickness. This is scraped up and used in 
 its natural state for salting cattle, &c. ; but, for domestic purposes, it is 
 melted by being mixed with about twenty gallons of water to a bushel 
 of salt, when the mechanical impurities, sand, &c., readily settle. The 
 salt is again returned to a solid state by evaporation. The marsh, 
 after scraping, produces a second crop of salt in from five to seven 
 days of dry weather ; and after repeated scrapings during the past 
 three years, yields as full a supply as at first The marsh re- 
 
 ceives the drainage of the valley slope about two miles in width and 
 about five miles from the north, and consequently the brine, as it 
 comes from the source below, must be constantly weakened by so 
 large a body of surface water.” 
 
 While at Salina, Col. Phillips told me much about these salt springs 
 and marshes, and particularly of a very singular spring which rose on 
 the very summit of a conical mound standing on the open plain some 
 forty or fifty feet high. He kindly invited me to return and take a 
 tour with him through that beautiful prairie region, interspersed with 
 salt springs, buttes crowned with iron ore, and gypsum beds sufficient 
 to supply the world. We would need a wagon, a tent, and ten or 
 twelve daj's’ provisions. 
 
 Salt will have to be manufactured by solar evaporation in Kansas. 
 The climate is admirably adapted to it ; and, indeed, it is not only 
 the most economical method, but the article, when made, is better in 
 quality. 
 
 Gypsum abounds in Kansas. One vein of from four to ten feet in 
 thickness crosses both the Big Blue and Little Blue, a few miles above 
 their junction. South of the Smoky Hill at Salina an enormous de- 
 posit has been discovered and traced for miles. It it also found in 
 numerous places in the vicinity of the Solomon and Saline rivers. 
 Colonel Phillips marked it on a map in eight or ten places. The qual- 
 ity is quite equal t6 the Kova Scotia, and some thin veins of pearly 
 whiteness run through the heavy deposits south of the Smoky Hill. 
 
 Alum exists and might be manufactured to any extent in Saline 
 county, on the Smoky Hill. It is known to extend through a range 
 of fifteen or twenty miles. 
 
 Iron ore is found in considerable abundance in many places west of 
 
TOWNS IN KANSAS. — LEAVENWORTH. 
 
 45 
 
 Salina; l 3 ut as fuel is scarce where it is deposited, it is not likely to be 
 of much importance as a source of wealth. 
 
 Some specimens of tin ore have been found, but the mine where 
 they were taken has not been discovered. There is no gold nor silver, 
 for there are no igneous rocks. 
 
 As briefly as I could I have given some facts regarding the mineral 
 wealth of Kansas — enough to show that it is better supplied than 
 has been generally supposed. I shall add no general remarks. 
 
 LETTEE XI. — Leavenworth — -Old Fort Leavenworth — Rivalry with 
 Kansas City — Lawrence — • Its Location^ Beauty^ and History — 
 Swift Retribution — Brief Mention of an old Friend. 
 
 St. Louis, July 1, 1867. 
 
 I do not know that I can embrace within the compass of one letter 
 all that I may wish to say under this head. I have already spoken 
 incidentally of some of the smaller towns I have seen, especially Junc- 
 tion City and Salina, and the last, the newest, and the most western 
 — Ellsworth. Eome, on Big Creek, sixty miles beyond Fort Harker, 
 is not a town j^et ; but in less than a year more it may be a wonderful 
 place. Rome! How I hate this putting of new wine into old bottles! 
 Had they called the new city Big Greek it would have been less ridicu- 
 lous, whatever might have been said of its euphony or appropriate- 
 ness. 
 
 LEAVENWORTH. 
 
 This thriving, beautiful, opulent, and commercial city, in which they 
 claim to have a population of 27,000, is situated on what may be called 
 a valley prairie, but well lifted up above the floods of the Missouri, 
 and environed on the north and west — but not closely — by grace- 
 fully swelling heights, from the summits of which there are extensive 
 and grand prospects in all directions. Twice have I been driven along 
 these heights, and never shall I forget the charming panoramas that 
 were spread out before me. 
 
 Old Fort Leavenworth — established long before the days of the 
 Border Euffians, while Iowa, and Kansas, and Nebraska were still 
 part of the great Northwest Territory, is located about two miles 
 north of the city, on the top of a high and abrupt bluff, the base of 
 which is washed by the Missouri, and west of which beautiful rolling 
 farms and prairies spread out in amplitude and grandeur — is a charm- 
 ing spot. Nature and art have combined to render it one of the 
 pleasantest retreats, whether for the citizen or the weary soldier, that 
 
46 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 I ever saw. l!^ot a feature or a trace of grim-visaged war meets the 
 eye of the stranger. Even its long-continued use as a great distribut- 
 ing post for the numerous forts and stations scattered over the far- 
 reaching “plains” is about ceasing, and ere long it will probably be 
 sold, including the rich and magnificent reservation attached to it. It 
 is very valuable property, and Congress should be well advised of that 
 value before it passes into private hands. Yisions of a large fortune 
 are probably looming up before the minds of some sharp operators 
 even now in connection with Fort Leavenworth. 
 
 Some of the business streets of Leavenworth have much of the 
 aspect of our old and substantial commercial cities. Statistics of its 
 business would be both interesting and surprising; but it was not my 
 object to collect such things. I was through almost every part of the 
 city, and one thing impressed me strongly — the almost total absence 
 of apparent poverty and squalidity. Most of the buildings are brick, 
 and have a neat, fresh, and comfortable aspect. Outside there are 
 many elegant suburban residences which would do credit to any city. 
 And the trees ! — nothing can surpass them for thrift and beauty. 
 
 But Leavenworth is somewhat in jeopardy commercially ; for unless 
 they bring a branch road from the Hannibal and St. .Joseph Eailroad 
 at Cameron to the east bank of the Missouri, opposite this city, and 
 throw a bridge across the river, so as to connect their branch of the 
 Union Pacific road, which runs to Lawrence, with the great systems 
 of railroads east of the Mississippi, Kansas City — which has a bridge 
 and a branch road to Cameron already made sure — will bear away 
 the palm. But let both have bridges, and both have branch roads to 
 Cameron, and I see no reason why Leavenworth may not maintain 
 the ascendancy. To bridge the Missouri at Leavenworth, however, 
 will be a much more difficult work than at Kansas City; but the peo- 
 ple of the former place say it can be done, and that they will do it. In 
 my opinion they must do it, or be content to be thrown off the line. 
 
 LAWRENCE. 
 
 On my return from Fort Harker I stopped a little more than two 
 days in this historic, almost classical little city, around whose annals, 
 although brief in duration as the life of childhood, cluster so many 
 memories of sterm devotion to principle, of heroic daring, of patient 
 endurance, of carnage and devastation, of horrid cruelties and fiend- 
 ish murders, at the calm recital of which, even yet, while standing on 
 the spot, the ears tingle and the heart grows sick. Twice given to 
 the flames by ruthless enemies, and its streets drenched in the blood 
 of its citizens, it has risen in superior beauty, and now stands before 
 
LAWKENCE. 
 
 47 
 
 the eyes of the admiring stranger, the bright centre of matchless sur- 
 roundings, the very image and embodiment of security, peace, and 
 prosperity. 
 
 The main part of the city lies on the south side of the Kansas, or 
 the Kaw, as it is more frequently called. The ground rises with a 
 gentle ascent from the river. The streets running in one direction 
 are named after the several States ; those in the other are numbered. 
 The population is variously given at from seven to eight thousand, 
 and is rapidly increasing. Lawrence is a place of considerable com- 
 merce, especially with the fine district lying south of it, which is set- 
 tling up with great rapidity, and through which they are building a 
 railroad. (Of all these 1 shall speak more particularly in another let- 
 ter.) Manufacturing of various kinds is prosecuted largely, especially 
 of household furniture, agricultural implements, and woollen goods. 
 I visited the woollen factory in company with Major Smith, son of 
 the Hon. George W. Smith, formerly of Butler, Pa., and was astonished 
 at the excellent variety of goods I saw. I shall show you, when I 
 return, a few small samples which I know you will pronounce equal 
 to anything of the kind made in the United States. 
 
 But it is impossible to convey to the mind of one who has never 
 been west of the Missouri an idea of the marvellous beauty of a city 
 set in such natural surroundings. From College Hill you take in a 
 range of miles in extent of which the eye could never weary — such a 
 singular blending of variety without blemish, of intense life, and yet 
 of profound repose. 
 
 The history of Lawrence is written, and will never be forgotten. 
 But I cannot forbear to touch upon two or three incidents connected 
 with the Quantrell raid which affected me deeply. John Speer, Esq., 
 editor of the Lawrence Daily Tribune^ whose father was my neighbor 
 in Armstrong county, and whom I knew well in his boyhood, lost two 
 sons — lads of sixteen and eighteen. One perished in the flames of a 
 store in which he slept; the other escaped from his father’s office, and 
 was shot through the body in the street. He fell near a small frame 
 building. An officer ordered the building to be fired. Young Speer 
 begged one of the raiders to draw him away from the building, so that 
 he should not be roasted. He promised to do so, and crossed the 
 street to get a comrade to help him. Two came. One of them, after 
 looking at him attentively for a moment, drew his revolver and shot 
 him through the head. A third son, aged fourteen, saved his life by 
 giving a feigned name. The active part the father had taken in the 
 cause of freedom during the border troubles, rendered him and all 
 
4:8 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 who bore his name objects of special vengeance. Mr. Speer’s residence 
 being out of town, he himself escaped. 
 
 A gentleman whose name was on the list of the doomed, a book- 
 seller, was called to the door, shot dead, and fell inside of the hall. 
 His wife, a young lady, was called out, and the house fired. She 
 begged hard to be permitted to remove the body of her husband from 
 the burning building, but this was rudely denied. One of the mis- 
 creants observed that she had something in her hand. It was her 
 husband’s ambrotype, which she had snatched up as she came out. 
 He took it from her, looked at it, and then threw it into the flames. 
 
 Nearly two hundred dead bodies strewed the streets, and an almost 
 universal conflagration had laid the town in ruins. No resistance was 
 or could be made. A small military force had been there a few days 
 before, but their commander, in spite of the remonstrances and en- 
 treaties of the citizens, sent them away, assuring them that there was 
 no danger. Poor man ! he remained himself; but his house was sur- 
 rounded, and, in a vain attempt to save himself, climbed down into 
 his own well, which was under his roof. His house was fired and he 
 was smothered. 
 
 A strange fatality seemed to attend this lamentable affair on all 
 hands. A messenger was coming full speed to apprise the people of 
 the approach of the invaders. His horse stumbled and fell, and he 
 was killed. But for this he would have arrived in time to have had 
 the men of the town organized, and it could have been successfully 
 defended and saved. 
 
 I now come to what I believe to be unwritten history. I have it 
 from a gentleman of St. Louis, of great intelligence and probity. 
 Having done their work, the raiders, who were mounted men, rapidly 
 retreated towards the Missouri border. It appears that they divided 
 into two or three parties or squads. A swift messenger bore the 
 tidings of what they had done at Lawrence to the brave and determined 
 leader of a company or band of loyal Missourians. Believing that one 
 of these squads must necessarily cross the Osage river at a certain 
 ford, he posted his men — some under the dark shadow of the opposite 
 bank, and some in a corn-field on a road close by — and awaited their 
 approach. About one o’clock in the morning they heard them coming. 
 The men under th6 bank lay still until the raiders were nearly across 
 the river; then one simultaneous volley emptied twenty saddles, and 
 dead and wounded were alike swept down the strong current of the 
 Osage. Twelve only cleared the ford, to meet a similar fate at the 
 hands of the men in the corn-field. Not one escaped. 
 
 “What was done with the wounded among the twelve?” asked 
 
TOWNS IN KANSAS. 
 
 49 ^ 
 
 my informant of the captain of this band, after he had related the 
 incident. 
 
 well, I don’t know; they all got into the river somehow^ 
 
 “ Oh ! if that river could speak, what tales it could tell ! ” was the 
 passionate exclamation of that truly loyal but terrible man, before he 
 narrated that affair. Such men were made terrible by the stormy 
 scenes in which they lived and moved — scenes begun by border ruf- 
 fians battling for slavery, and continued by rebels. 
 
 I cannot close this notice of Lawrence without some mention of a 
 well-remembered friend of my early life. Judge Smith, formerly of 
 Butler, Pa., and who is well known to many of the readers of the 
 Gazette. He was in Kansas during all the border troubles, in which 
 he bore an active and conspicuous part, but rather as a counsellor 
 and guiding mind than as a warrior. Few men labored harder, suf- 
 fered more, or did more to bring that memorable struggle to a suc- 
 cessful and triumphant termination than he. I was glad to meet him 
 and his excellent wife — a Kittanning lady — - and I highly enjoyed the 
 hospitality of their beautiful home, where, in quietude and peace, and 
 loved and honored by those by whom they are surrounded, they can 
 rehearse to their stranger friends the struggles, the battles, and the 
 triumphs of bygone days. 
 
 LETTEE XII. — Towns in Kansas- — Atchison- — ‘Kansas City -^Wy- 
 andotte — Topeha ■ — Waumega — Lecom]pton — Manhattan. 
 
 St. Louis, July 3, 1867. 
 
 I HAVE said that I should only speak of such cities and towns in 
 Kansas as I have visited. I did not visit Atchison, a lively and pro- 
 gressive city of several thousand inhabitants, situated on the west 
 bank of the Missouri, some fifteen miles below St. Joseph, and a like 
 distance above Leavenworth. A railroad running directly west for 
 one hundred miles through a very fine country, starts here and is 
 already finished and in operation for a distance of fifty or sixty miles. 
 A law of Congress grants the company a subsidy in lands and bonds 
 for a distance of one hundred miles ; and doubtless the grant will be 
 extended as soon as the road shall be completed that distance. 
 Whether it will be continued on until it reaches the Union Pacific 
 Eailway of the Kansas, or that of the Platte, or both, is a question 
 not yet determined. Should it be continued in a southern direction 
 to the first-named road, it will probably reach it at or near Manhattan, 
 120 miles west of Kansas City. Atchison is connected by rail with 
 St. Joseph. 
 
 4 
 
50 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 KANSAS CITY. 
 
 Is in Missouri, just across the line dividing that State from Kansas. 
 It is situated on a bluff on the south bank of the Missouri, about a 
 mile below the mouth of the Kansas river. At the mouth of the Kan- 
 sas the Missouri makes a great bend, changing its course from nearly 
 south to almost due east. It is a magnificent site for a city, whether 
 regarded in the light of its immediate location or of its commercial 
 possibilities as a great railroad centre. It is now the western ter- 
 minus of the Missouri Pacific road, and the eastern terminus of the 
 main line of the Union Pacific, Eastern Division. Soon it will have a 
 branch road to Cameron, on the Hannibal and St. Joseph road. Ere 
 long a branch of the Korth Missouri Eailroad — which begins at St. 
 Louis, crosses the Missouri at St. Charles, and thence runs up through 
 the northern part of the State — will be made to Kansas City. Both 
 these important branch roads are to cross the Missouri at Kansas 
 City on the same bridge. 
 
 In addition to all these, Kansas City is to be one of the termini of 
 the great railroad which is soon to be made from several points in 
 Kansas to Galveston on the Gulf of Mexico, which is but little over six 
 hundred miles distant, through one of the most beautiful and fertile 
 regions on the continent. The central stem of this road will reach 
 the Union Pacific at Lawrence; the eastern at Kansas City, and 
 probably the western will terminate at Junction City, at the mouth 
 of the Eepublican river, three miles beyond Fort Eiley. The people 
 of the ambitious little city last named talk as if their branch was a 
 sure thing. That to Lawrence is sure, for they are pushing it on 
 vigorously, and expect to have twenty-four miles of it completed and 
 in operation by January next. As for the branch to Kansas City 
 there seems to be no doubt. All these roads run through very rich 
 agricultural lands, and all traverse good coal-fields before they come 
 together at or near the southern border of the State. 
 
 Such are the prospective advantages of Kansas City. To what it 
 may grow remains to be seen. Should its future be directed by men 
 of large, liberal and enlightened views, I cannot see how it can fail to 
 become one of thp chief cities of this vast and magnificent region. 
 Bat should its destiny fall into the hands of narrow-minded, greedy 
 and unscrupulous adventurers, and should a rowdy element collect 
 there and give it a bad moral tone, then Leavenworth — which has 
 very nearly equal geographical advantages, and superior local advan- 
 tages — will maintain its position as the chief city of this important 
 centre. The struggle for the ascendancy between these two cities will 
 
TOWNS IN KANSAS. 
 
 51 
 
 be an interesting one, and will probably conduce to the prosperity and 
 well-being of both. 
 
 WYANDOTTE. 
 
 This town is situated at the mouth of the Kansas, and is bounded 
 by the Missouri on the east and the Kansas on the south. The loca- 
 tion is neither ample nor pretty, and the aspect of the place exhibits 
 neither taste nor thrift on the part of the people. Kansas City is in 
 full view from this place, looking down the Missouri and across the 
 Kansas, just where its waters mingle with those of the greater river. 
 
 TOPEKA. 
 
 This is the capital of the State. The situation is pretty; and 
 although the city is somewhat straggling, and the streets in bad con- 
 dition, there are many handsome residences and several good hotels. 
 I was there but a short time, and can only speak of it in general 
 terms. I visited the ground where they^are laying the foundations 
 of the Capitol. ■ It is to be built of the fine soft magnesian limestone 
 found around Junction City, of which I spoke in a former letter, and 
 will doubtless be a very handsome edifice. To be the seat of the 
 government of a State, however, is in my opinion a very questionable 
 advantage to a city. Topeka is on the south side of the Kansas river, 
 thirty miles west of Lawrence. 
 
 WAUMEGA. 
 
 This is a prettily situated new town on the railroad, some forty-five 
 miles west of Topeka. I did not stop, but I observed a fine large 
 hotel, and a fair appearance of business. The surrounding country 
 is very good; and as it is settled up, Waumega will grow. 
 
 LECOMPTON. 
 
 This town of bad political fame is, or was, on the south bank of the 
 Kansas, nearly midway between Lawrence and Topeka. Its record 
 seems to have driven people away from it, and but little of it remains. 
 I was not there. 
 
 MANHATTAN. 
 
 Leaving Junction City on Monday morning the 17th, I ran down 
 on the train twenty miles, and stopped off at this beautiful little town 
 at the mouth of the Big Blue, intending to remain one day ; but I was 
 so much pleased, and found so many objects of interest, that I re- 
 mained two days. 
 
 I had letters which introduced me at once to the social life of the 
 place and to the most generous hospitality, and I had an opportunity 
 
’ 52 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 to look more closely into the character of the people generally than 
 of any other town I visited in Kansas. The population is only about 
 one thousand, but there is ample room on their magnificent town 
 site for a hundred thousand. 
 
 Manhattan was originally founded by a little colony from Cincinnati, 
 who migrated from that city in a small steamer which they purchased 
 for the purpose. They steamed down the Ohio, up the Mississippi, up 
 the Missouri, and then up the Kansas to the mouth of the Big Blue. 
 That was their destination, and their boat never returned. It was 
 kept for a dwelling-place until provision for the families could be made 
 on shore. But before they left the boat, and before a single dwelling 
 had been erected, the spot for a school-house had been selected, and 
 measures taken for its immediate erection, so that they might have 
 at once a school for their children and a place of worship for all. This 
 was some twelve years ago, and long before the railroad which has 
 brought fresh life and prosperity to their town was even thought of. 
 
 Take it all in all, I think Manhattan and its surroundings the most 
 beautiful part of Kansas that I have seen, which is the same as saying 
 that it is the most beautiful portion of this earth’s surface upon which 
 my eyes ever rested. The Eev. Alexander Sterrett, of the Presby- 
 terian Church, who, by a mandate which it was not in me to resist, 
 made me his guest, took me in his buggyto the summit of Blue Mont, 
 a conical eminence some two hundred feet high, about a mile from 
 town. Such a combination of the grand and the beautiful — the soft 
 green of the gracefully undulating prairies, the dark rich foliage of 
 the trees which skirted and marked the winding course of three 
 streams, the Kansas, the Blue and the AYild Cat, for miles north and 
 west and east, the beautiful farms with which the broad landscape was 
 dotted all over, with their comfortahle-looking and really pretty stone 
 houses, and the bright and quiet-looking town in the valley beneath, 
 with the College on the rising ground in the rear — is rare indeed. 
 Senator Wade, who, with others of the Senatorial party of excursionists, 
 visited this spot, was greatly delighted, and uttered the rather strong 
 remark, that the view from the high mountain where, long ago, the 
 Evil One spread his panorama of temptation before the eyes of the 
 Eedeemer, could haYO been nothing to that. 
 
 I have spoken of the intelligence of this community and of their 
 virtues. By their fruits we may know them. The Congregational, 
 Episcopalian, Presbyterian, and Methodist denominations are all 
 represented, and each have a neat house of worship ; but the most cor- 
 dial relations exist among them all. The people are too intelligent to 
 permit differences of this kind to divide them. Of this fact I can 
 
TOWNS IN KANSAS. 
 
 53 
 
 speak from my own observation. I was assured that no better graded 
 free school was to be found in Boston than here, and certainly they 
 have a very ample and well-finished school edifice. But a single place 
 exists in the town where intoxicating drinks are vended, and even 
 that is likely to be closed. Some time ago a man set up a billiard 
 table, but.it would not pay, and he went off with it. In fact, idleness, 
 vice, and rowdyism are almost unknown. 
 
 There are many good stores in the place, and the principal street 
 has something of a city aspect. Buildings aie going up rapidly, nearly 
 all of that beautiful stone of which I spoke in a former letter ; and 
 altogether the place appears to be busy and thriving. 
 
 There is a fine water-power at Manhattan. Some three miles above, 
 by the road, but more than three times that distance by the course of 
 the stream, there is a considerable fall in the Big Blue — which is a 
 large, clear, and standing river — at the head of which a substantial 
 stone dam has been erected. A race of three miles across the level 
 neck of the peninsula, and down past the base of Blue Mont, will bring 
 the water to the town, and - give a fall, as I was informed, of about 
 twenty-four feet — enough to propel a very large amount of machinery. 
 The Kansas itself, I am told, can also be made available for a like 
 purpose. I see no reason why this may not become an important 
 manufacturing town. 
 
 LETTER XIII. — Towns in Kansas — Junction City — -Solomon City — 
 Salina — The Neosho Valley — The Seasons in Kansas — ■ A Word to 
 such as may think of Emigrating. 
 
 St. Louis, July 8, 1867. 
 
 Of the remaining towns in Kansas which I have seen — Junction 
 City, Solomon City, Salina, and Ellsworth — I have already spoken 
 pretty freely, and need say but little more. They are all ambitious 
 little places, and are all the creatures of this road. Each is the centre 
 of a large and fertile district, with which it will grow. 
 
 JUNCTION CITY, 
 
 situated as it is at the lower end of the fine valley of the Republican 
 river, and only eighteen or twenty miles from the head of ISTeosho val- 
 ley — probably the finest wheat-growing portion of Kansas — with 
 which the people of that town hope ere long to be connected by rail- 
 road — has aspirations far beyond those of a mere county seat or the 
 centre of a good agricultural surrounding. 
 
 I was much pleased with the spirit of enterprise everywhere mani- 
 
54 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 fested in this new and bustling place; yet there was much about it 
 that did not strike me favorably. To have a superabundance of 
 saloons, restaurants and billiard-tables, and not a single finished church 
 edifice or a commodious school-room, is not the way to begin a city. 
 There is a spirited daily paper published here by a Mr. Martin, a 
 Pennsylvanian, a gentleman who is probably doing more for Junction 
 City than any other man in it. Of the peculiar building-stone found 
 here in exhaustless abundance, I have already spoken at length. 
 
 SOLOMON CITY. 
 
 This new city is situated at the confiuence of the Solomon river and 
 the Smoky Hill, nearly forty miles west of Junction City. I did not 
 stop at it, and of its prospects 1 am unable to speak. If it can draw 
 to it the trade of the fine valley of the Solomon, it will be a prosper- 
 ous place. 
 
 SALINA. 
 
 This is the place where I was fiood-bound for a week, and of which 
 I have already spoken pretty fully. Being the centre and county 
 seat of a large and very fertile county, and near to the salt springs, 
 the gypsum beds, and other deposits of valuable minerals, its steady 
 prosperity is sure. 
 
 There are some minor places, and some newly laid-out towns, which 
 it is not necessary in this place to mention. These (spoken of in this 
 and the two preceding letters) are all the towns of any importance in 
 which I have been. 
 
 THE NEOSHO VALLEY. 
 
 This is the name of what is claimed to be the most fertile valley in 
 Kansas, and, next to that of the Kansas, the most extensive. The 
 Keosho river is a tributary of the Arkansas. It rises on the southern 
 slope of a ridge or swell of no great elevation, a few miles south of the 
 Smoky Hill, about the meridian of Port Kiley, and pursues a south- 
 eastern course until it reaches the neighborhood of the flourishing 
 town of Humboldt, one hundred miles south of Lawrence. Thence its 
 course is due south into the Indian territory and to the Arkansas. 
 Its length in the State of Kansas is not much less than two hundred 
 miles. The valley 4s wide. 
 
 This valley is supposed to be the best wheat land in the United 
 States. Forty bushels to the acre is not unusual. A farmer at Car- 
 lisle, in Allen county, raised forty bushels per acre on a field of forty 
 acres. Allen county lies south of Lawrence. Mr. Ice, of Chase 
 county, which lies south of Fort Biley, raised in 1866 eight hundred 
 and twenty bushels of wheat on sixteen acres, being fifty-four and 
 
NEOSHO VALLEY — SEASONS IN KANSAS. 
 
 55 
 
 one-fourth bushels to the acre. Judge Bailey, of the Supreme Court 
 of Kansas, who gave me these facts, attributes the extreme produc- 
 tiveness of that valley to the vrashirigs of the immense deposits of 
 gypsum existing on the head-waters of that stream. 
 
 Judge Bailey, in speaking of stock, told me that heifers in the south- 
 ern counties of Kansas almost invariably produce calves at the age of 
 two years, and frequently at a less age. He mentioned one case of 
 his own personal knowledge, where the age of the mother was less 
 than a year and a half. This precocity must greatly facilitate the 
 rearing of cattle in that country. 
 
 The town of Humboldt, in Allen county, has a population of over 
 fifteen hundred. It has four church edifices and good schools. It was 
 burned by the rebels in 1862. Emperio is another flourishing town 
 in the Keosho valley, south of Topeka. There are many others. 
 
 To show how that country is settling up, it is only necessary to 
 state the fact, which I find in a statement before me, made by ofiicial 
 authority, that during the first fifteen days of June, 1867, there were 
 located in the land office at Humboldt 49,320 acres of land. 
 
 In these letters I have said more about Kansas than I at first in- 
 tended, and I have done so because the more I saw of it, and con- 
 sidered it, and the more I mingled with its truly intelligent and 
 generous people, the more I was pleased with it. Perhaps equal to 
 Illinois in fertility, it is far more beautiful and salubrious. In no part 
 that I have seen is the idea of monotony even suggested. But it has 
 its drawbacks. Wood is scarce, and its short winters — confined to 
 January, February and part of March — are often sharp and severe, 
 with high winds. Water is abundant and good, whether in streams, 
 or springs, or wells. I drank none in that State that was not sweet 
 and wholesome. There is rain enough. From Leavenworth to Fort 
 Harker I talked with the people about this, and the unvarying testi- 
 mony was, that there had been no lack of rain since 1860, w^hich was 
 a very dry year. And, contrary as it may seem to the common im- 
 pression, the drought of that year was less severe at Salina and Fort 
 Harker than in the more eastern portions of the State. 
 
 The seasons in Kansas are peculiar. The winters are dry. In the 
 latter part of March the rainy season begins, and continues into June. 
 After that there is but little rain until the following spring. The rain 
 falls in heavy showers. I witnessed some such as I never saw in the 
 Eastern States. A rainy day is a thing unknown in Kansas, or what 
 we call a “ drizzle.” After a shower the ground dries up directly. 
 The latter part of summer is almost uniformly clear and dry, and the 
 rays of the sun pour down through the clear atmosphere with great 
 
56 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTKY BEYOND. 
 
 intensity ; but the heat is mitigated by an almost constant breeze. 
 The fall months, to the last of December, are dry and pleasant. I 
 was at Fort Eiley last November, and found the weather bright, and 
 quite warm and clear, and the roads dusty. 
 
 Any man who may think of going to Kansas as a farmer, must bear 
 in mind that he needs a good deal more than a tract of land to begin 
 with. He cannot here improvise a dwelling in a day or two, as the 
 first settlers of the “ back-woods ” did, and many things which could 
 there be obtained easily and at his door, are not to be had here. He 
 •had better take at least a part of his house with him, and as much 
 money as will enable him to fence and break up at least one good 
 field. Arrange to have fruit-trees sent on as soon as the ground can 
 be prepared for their reception. Never mind agricultural implements, 
 for they can be obtained there cheaper and better than they can be 
 brought from the east. Plant trees quickly and plenty of them, for 
 fruit, for shade from the sun and shelter from the winds, and for 
 beauty. I only saw one farm in the Kansas valley that I thought had 
 trees enough, and it was very beautiful. 
 
 It is wonderful how vigorously, beautifully and rapidly trees grow 
 in that country. They really look as if they themselves rejoiced in 
 their fulness of life, and in the poetic language of the prophet, they 
 would “ clap their hands.” I think I am more of a cold utilitarian 
 than an enthusiast; but truly those Kansas trees awakened emotions 
 that bordered on enthusiasm. 
 
 1 know of no situation where a man, who should go out without 
 proper provision and forecast, and set himself down upon one of those 
 broad prairies, would feel so utterly destitute, helpless and forlorn. 
 But let him ascertain what he has to do, and prepare himself to do it, 
 and there is probably no place on this earth where, in so short a time, 
 he can have a valuable and productive farm and a most desirable 
 home. 
 
 LETTEE XI Y. — Education in Kansas — The Free School System — 
 State Normal School — Peculiar Mode of Teaching — State Agricul- 
 tural College — University of Kansas — Equality and Commingling of 
 the Sexes in the higher Schools. 
 
 Allegheny City, July 16, 1867. 
 
 FREE SCHOOL SYSTEM. 
 
 Amongst a people so intelligent and progressive as those of Kansas, 
 I was prepared to find that the cause of popular education was re- 
 
EDUCATION- IN’ KANSAS. 
 
 57 
 
 ceiving, both from the State and the people, that care and attention 
 which it so justly merits. To show how it is progressing, as well as 
 to show to what proportions the Free School system has already 
 grown, I compile the following table from the Sixth Annual Feport 
 of the Superintendent of Public Institutions. By it, at a glance, the 
 reader may note the progress made in a single year : — 
 
 
 
 1865. 
 
 1866, 
 
 Increase. 
 
 Number of Districts 
 
 
 721 
 
 871 
 
 150 
 
 Number of Teachers 
 
 
 899 
 
 1,086 
 
 89 
 
 Number of Scholars enrolled 
 
 . .V 
 
 26,341 
 
 31,258 
 
 4,917 
 
 Teachers’ Salaries . 
 
 
 $86,898 
 
 115,924 
 
 $29,026 
 
 Yalue of School-Houses 
 
 
 122,822 
 
 318,897 
 
 196,075 
 
 Assessed in Districts for School Purposes, 
 
 106,589 
 
 192,620 
 
 86,031 
 
 In addition to these there are 83 Select Schools, with 113 teachers 
 and 3,228 scholars ; three Academies and Institutes, nine Colleges and 
 Universities, numbering 39 Professors and Teachers, and 958 students. 
 Two of these are Commercial Colleges. All of these are private or 
 denominational institutions which have received no aid from either 
 the State or the l^ational Government. 
 
 Still additional to these are three higher State institutions, viz., 
 The State Normal School at Emporia, in Lyon county, about sixty 
 miles southwest of Lawrence, with three Professors; the State Agri- 
 cultural College, with five Professors, situate on a beautiful eminence 
 overlooking Manhattan ; and the State University at Lawrence, which 
 went into operation in September 1866. Of these three last-mentioned 
 institutions I am able to speak somewhat more particularly. 
 
 STATE NORMAL SCHOOL. 
 
 The primary object of this school is the education of teachers. It 
 had been in operation about two years when the report of 1866, now 
 before me, was made. It is one of the most cherished and highly 
 valued institutions in the State. “Not merely to learn the lessons of 
 the day, but to learn how to teach it to others, is the object definitely 
 aimed at,^’ say the visitors in their report. Of the system or plan of 
 teaching in that school the report gives so clear and graphic an 
 account that I know not how I can interest the reader more than by 
 copying an entire paragraph ; — 
 
 “ One of the most noticeable points was the rigid persistence with 
 which the topical system of recitation was enforced. The old stereo- 
 typed system of “questions and answers’^ was utterly discarded. 
 Topics, oftener than otherwise consisting of a single word, were as- 
 signed to the pupils, and each, without the slightest reference to text- 
 
58 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 books or memoranda, was required to rise and develop it in his own 
 language, and in proper consecutive order, with constant and copious 
 blackboard illustrations. Thus the topic assigned to a pupil might be 
 “ The Andes.” He was required to sketch upon the board a complete 
 map of that system of mountains, with all their important ramifica- 
 tions — the valleys, plateaux, and lakes they enclose, and the rivers 
 flowing from them; to describe the height of all the different chains 
 and principal peaks ; to give the local names, latitude and longitude, 
 altitude, climate and special characteristics of all the different points 
 of the map. When all this has been done, the topography of the 
 region in question is fixed in bold and indelible relief upon the mind 
 of the pupil. In like manner the pupils in Physical Geography were 
 required to illustrate and describe the ocean currents, the winds, vol- 
 canic and tidal action. Those in history, to draw maps of important 
 historic regions and battle-fields. Those in Geology, to draw sections 
 of strata and sketches of fossils. In Grammar, Crosby’s novel method 
 of written anal5’sis was used. Witnessing one recitation in arith- 
 metic would certainly excite in the most inveterate old fogy a supreme 
 disgust at the aimless and worthless “ciphering” of our District 
 Schools. In reading, the difference was, if possible, still more strik- 
 ing. In the elementary class the phonetic analysis of sounds was 
 taught, accompanied by remarkably neat and tasteful phonetic print- 
 ing of entire lessons upon the board. The result of this is, that nor- 
 mal graduates will understand the pronunciation of English words! 
 The utmost deliberation, distinctness and volume of utterance was 
 demanded. In the more advanced class the graces of elocution were 
 taught, with a somewhat extended study of distinguished authors. 
 In vocal music, all the pupils were required to thoroughly master the 
 rules of musical notation by a drill as rigid as any other study, and 
 the class singing was strong, harmonious, and spirited. A noteworthy 
 feature was found in the general teaching exercises. Under Prof. 
 Kellogg’s, direction the entire school performed astonishingly with 
 rapid combinations of numbers ; and Prof. Horton discussed and 
 elucidated the important political and scientific news of the day.” 
 
 A new, handsome, and commodious edifice has just been erected for 
 this school, and a boarding-house of stone, large enough to accommo- 
 date fifty boarders. 
 
 KANSAS STATE AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE. 
 
 This is the only institution of learning I visited while in the State. 
 As before stated, it is near Manhattan, and from its windows, and 
 more especially from its lofty cupola, the view all around for miles is 
 exceedingly beautiful and varied. The institution is in a flourishing 
 condition. I witnessed the recitation of several classes; and if there 
 were fewer novelties in the mode than are described above, the 
 instruction was none the less thorough. I was both surprised and 
 pleased at the readiness with which the students appeared to grasp 
 the subject-matter of the lessons in hand. 
 
EDUCATION IN KANSAS. 
 
 69 
 
 In this College, Agriculture is taught as a science and by practical 
 operations. A lot of eighty acres of excellent land has been enclosed 
 with a handsome stone fence, and a beginning made both in agricul- 
 ture and horticulture. In time this will be very beautiful as well as 
 useful. It is not, however, what is called a manual labor institution. 
 An agriculturist is to be engaged, under whose supervision the opera- 
 tions of this department will be carried on. To the President, Eev. 
 J. Denison, D.D., and Professor B. F. Mudge, from whose report as 
 State Geologist I drew largely in speaking of the mineral resources 
 of Kansas, I am under many obligations for hospitality and kind 
 attentions while at their beautiful place. 
 
 President Denison, in his report, makes a few general remarks upon 
 the progress of Kansas, which I take the liberty to copy as exactly 
 pertinent to my object in making these brief notices : 
 
 “We already have a number of students from the counties west of 
 this point. The pulsations through the great artery of travel to the 
 Kocky Mountains and Santa Fe are already felt in the rapid increase 
 of settlers in these counties. The cars of the Union Pacific Eailway, 
 E. D., will run to Salina, seventy miles west of this, by next spring, 
 and soon to the western limit of the State. The benefits of this thor- 
 oughfare of travel to the State are almost incalculable; its cost to 
 the State is very little. So much the more, then, can the State atford 
 to apply a portion of its increasing means to the development of its 
 institutions of learning. To the myriads of settlers that are coming 
 on this thoroughfare, and those pouring into its northern and southern 
 borders, the State cannot afford to refuse the means of education, or 
 be slow or parsimonious in providing the means for them.” 
 
 This college is less than twenty miles this side of Fort Eiley. By 
 act of Congress it has an endowment of ninety thousand acres of land. 
 
 UNIVEESITY OF KANSAS. 
 
 This is a new institution, the first session having opened September 
 12, 1866. It has an endowment of forty-six thousand acres. The 
 College edifice, which stands on a commanding eminence overlooking 
 the city of Lawrence, is a handsome stone building. I regretted that 
 I did not reach Lawrence on my return trip until the day after the 
 commencement exercises had closed ; but the citizens spoke in glow- 
 ing terms of the manner in which the Faculty had discharged their 
 duties and led their students forward in sound learning. This insti- 
 tution places both sexes, so far as education is concerned, on an 
 equality. On this point President Eice, in his report, remarks: 
 “This, without doubt, is both just and expedient. It is no small 
 honor that the Mediterranean State should be the first to recognize 
 the rights of woman in her educational system.” 
 
60 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 The same is true, I believe, of the Normal School, as I know it is 
 of the Agricultural College at Manhattan. There I saw young men 
 and young women reciting together in the same classes, and certainly 
 there appeared to be quite as much vigor of apprehension and under- 
 standing on the part of the latter as of the former. Towards each 
 other their deportment was that of well-trained brothers and sisters 
 in the home circle. Kansas is sufficiently civilized to mingle the sexes 
 in the higher schools without danger of folly or impropriety. 
 
 LETTER XY. — Eeturn of the Pond Greek Party — The line to Denver — 
 Pine^ Timber, and Coal — The Mountain Snows must be avoided — 
 The Route and Distance to New Mexico — Superiority of the more 
 Southern Route — Surveying Party. 
 
 St. Louis, June 29, 1867. 
 
 The gentlemen who went on to Pond Creek from Fort Harker have 
 returned safe and well. John D. Perry, Esq., the President of the 
 Company, accompanied them. They all speak in glowing terms of 
 the interest of the trip and of the beauty of the country through which 
 they passed. The savages did not molest them. G-en. Hancock, with 
 a small military force, as I said before, accompanied them up. The 
 return trip was made in stage-coaches. 
 
 Pond Creek is within eight or ten miles of the western boundary of 
 the State of Kansas ; yet for the entire distance from Fort Harker to 
 that place the prairies are clothed with luxuriant grass, and the soil 
 is rich and deep. Timber is scarce, but there seems to be no lack of 
 water. The soil is better than that I have already described between 
 Salina and Fort Harker, a deep brown sandy loam, well adapted to 
 the culture of both corn and wheat. All these gentlemen concur in 
 representing the country beyond Fort Harker as still better than that 
 over which we passed on this side of that point. They speak of the 
 prairies of the Buffalo grass region as exceedingly beautiful and pic- 
 turesque, and that the country is sure to settle up as fast as the rail- 
 road progresses. 
 
 At Fort Wallace the excursionists organized a meeting for the pur- 
 pose of giving expression to the effect which all that they had seen 
 and experienced had upon their minds. The resolutions adopted 
 strongly and earnestly commend this great enterprise to the favorable 
 consideration of Congress and the country, and urged its immediate 
 prosecution. 
 
 Pond Creek (Fort Wallace) is an important point on this line; for 
 there or in that vicinity it is that the line to New Mexico leaves the 
 
THE MOUNTAIN SNOWS. 
 
 61 
 
 line to Denver. The distance from Pond Creek to Denver is 187 miles ; 
 to Santa Fe, by the stage road, it is 402 miles. Both lines pass over 
 good ground for railroad purposes, and through regions well adapted 
 to the rearing of stock. I am told that the plains of Colorado are not 
 adapted to agriculture, except where irrigation is feasible; but as it is 
 not very long since we were told that this whole region, through a 
 considerable portion of which our party travelled with great delight, 
 was an uninhabitable desert, this story about the indispensableness 
 of irrigation may be of the same kind. For more than four hundred 
 miles west of the Missouri river, as we can testify, no irrigation is 
 needed. On the route to Denver, the line of the road will pass through 
 extensive tracts of excellent pine timber, and over inexhaustible mines 
 of coal, 
 
 THE MOUNTAIN SNOWS. 
 
 Everything on this side of Denver is very good. There is neither 
 desert nor difficulty of any kind, but what lies beyond Denver causes 
 prudent men to pause and consider. It seems now to he a settled 'point 
 that the Union Pacific Railway, Eastern Division, will he carried through 
 New Mexico and Arizona to its ultimate and original destination, and not 
 through the stupendous system or labyrinth of mountains, which 
 begins at Denver, and ends only on the banks of the Sacramento. 
 Into the natural gorges of these mountains, and into the deep artificial 
 cuts required for a railroad, the light, dry snows of that region will 
 drift in such quantities as to defy all human skill and power to keep 
 them clear. Even as late as the first of the present month, as I have 
 been informed, some of the passes through the mountains, between the 
 heads of the Platte and the valley of Utah, were still covered with 
 from ten to twenty feet of snow — not snow which had fallen upon 
 them, but which had been driven in by the winds, and over which men 
 and teams were passing as upon solid ground. But locomotives and 
 trains cannot run upon the top of snow-drifts, and where they are so 
 enormous, it is certain that they cannot run through them. It is 
 equally certain that those long, deep, narrow natural gorges or arti- 
 ficial cuts cannot be kept clear by any muscular or mechanical force 
 that can be employed for that purpose, for if cleared to-day, they ma;^ 
 be filled again to-morrow. To travel through such a region in the 
 winter season — and the winter in those mountains is nearly half the 
 year — would be attended with such frightful peril thet few would 
 have the hardihood to brave it; for imagine a passenger train caught 
 in a snow-drift, far from any human habitation, and buried, perchance, 
 in a few hours, under a snow-bank in which even the train itself would 
 soon cease to be a distinguishable object. 
 
62 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 Some propose to put the road under roof in all such places ; but this 
 is easier talked about than done. Moreover, the advocates of that 
 expedient appear to forget that fire is an adversary still more formi- 
 dable and uncontrollable than snow. It may suit the temper of some 
 high-spirited and energetic gentlemen to expunge the word impossible 
 from their vocabulary, and, having a mighty government at their 
 back, to imagine themselves to be omnipotent ; but prudent men, such 
 as those who manage the Eastern Division, hesitate to rush blindly 
 into difficulties with which neither they nor any other men are able 
 to grapple. 
 
 They have, however, that which their energetic rivals of the Platte 
 line have not — an admirable alternative. They can drop to a more 
 southern latitude, where there are no snows to obstruct them, and no 
 stupendous heights to scale. This southern deflection of the line 
 begins at or near Pond Creek. 
 
 THE ROUTE TO NEW MEXICO. 
 
 The following information of the country between Pond Creek and 
 Santa Fe I have from W. S. Stone, Esq., agent of the Santa Fe Stage 
 Company: 
 
 Miles. 
 
 From Pond Creek to Fort Lyon on the Arkansas river, about 500 
 miles west of the State of Arkansas — a good buffalo grass 
 
 region, rolling prairies, estimated, 65 
 
 Thence up the valley of the Purgatoire to Trinidad, the base of 
 the mountains — an excellent agricultural valley; the uplands 
 
 rolling prairies, fertile, and covered with buffalo grass, . . 126 
 
 Thence to summit of Eaton Pass, .15 
 
 Thence to Eed river, 14 
 
 Thence to Santa Fe, through numerous valleys and several Mexi- 
 can towns, some of considerable size, 182 
 
 402 
 
 This is the stage road. It is very probable that the railroad line 
 will run a few miles east and south of Santa Fe to Albuquerque, via 
 Fort Union, on the Eio Grande, at the eastern base of the Eaton 
 Mountain, and thus avoid some mountains, and keep in a better coun- 
 try. Fort Union is the largest distributing post for military stores in 
 the West. The country all the way from Pond Creek to Albuquerque 
 is probably the finest grazing region in the United States; but it is a 
 region utterly valueless until opened and made accessible by railroad 
 communication. But when it shall be so developed, it will become a 
 
SURVEYING PARTY. 
 
 63 
 
 source of immense national wealth and prosperity. Throughout the 
 greater part of that immense pastoral region, cattle require no stored 
 food in the winter season, for the grass of the prairies, whether green 
 or dry, is always good and nutritious. 
 
 The recent discovery of rich gold placers in ISTew Mexico adds 
 greatly to the importance of this road. In fact, it seems that from 
 the point where the mountains are first reached, on the western 
 border of the vast buffalo-grass plains, to the shores of the Pacific, the 
 line of this road will run through one continuous field of the precious 
 metals, besides much timber and coal. 
 
 Leaving Albuquerque, the line through the heart of Arizona — that 
 richest of our territories in gold and silver, but the most difficult to 
 reach — presents no serious difficulties. Long valleys, running in the 
 right direction, bear it onwards towards the border of California, 
 whence, turning the southern extremity of the great Sierra Mevada 
 range, it passes up through Southern California, midway between the 
 mountains and the ocean, to San Francisco, touching the fine port of 
 San Diego by a branch, and the head of the Grulf of California, and 
 the port of Guaymas, if need be, by others. 
 
 This route may be somewhat longer than that through Ltah and 
 FTevada, but its gradients will be so much less that it will more than 
 compensate for this lengthening of the line. For all purposes for 
 which a railroad is desired to be shorter, to wit, greater speed and 
 economy of transportation, it is believed that this is really the shorter 
 line. But whether it is longer in miles than the other is not yet 
 known ; for the length of line necessary to wind through the laby- 
 rinthine mountains of Utah is yet an unknown quantity. Be that as 
 it may, it is certain that its grades will be lighter, that it can never 
 be obstructed by snow, and that the country it will open up and 
 develop, whether agricultural, or pastoral, or mineral, is tenfold more 
 valuable. 
 
 A party of gentlemen of scientific ability, about eighty in number, 
 headed by General W. W. Wright, chief engineer, and comprising, 
 among others. Dr. John Leconte, of the Smithsonian Institute, as 
 geologist. Dr. Perry, who was engaged in the survey of the line 
 between the United States and Mexico, with eminent topographers 
 and photographers, are now engaged in a careful examination, survey, 
 and development of this route. The party is out under the auspices 
 and employ of this company. Other surveying parties of equal 
 ability are now engaged in locating the road between Pond Creek 
 and Denver. 
 
64 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 LETTER XVI. — General Subject of Routes discussed — Description of 
 the Valley of the Platte — The Region between the Heads of the Platte 
 and the Sierra Nevada — The great Utility of both Roads — The 
 Route beyond Kansas — Fertility of the Country on the Arkansas and 
 Purgatoire Rivers — Immense Deposits of Coal — Pine Timber — New 
 Mexico, its Minerals, and other Resources. 
 
 Allegheny City, July 12, 1867. 
 
 GENERAL SUBJECT OF ROUTES DISCUSSED. 
 
 In a former letter I stated the fact that the Union Pacific Railway 
 Company, Eastern Division, had resolved to carry the main line of 
 their road to the Pacific, not directly across the Rocky Mountains, 
 through Utah and Nevada, and over the Alpine heights of the Sierra 
 Nevada range, but by a more southwestern route through the south- 
 eastern part of Colorado, east of the Rocky Mountains ; thence through 
 New Mexico and Arizona, to the southeastern border of California, 
 
 ' and thence, through the great valley of Southern California, to San 
 Francisco. 
 
 This important change of route will be attended by many and great 
 advantages, the chief of which, probably, is, that the tremendous snow- 
 drifts of the route directly through the mountains will be avoided. 
 Another is, that the more southern route is level compared with the 
 other. On the line of the Central Pacific Railroad, running from 
 Sacramento to Salt Lake, the Sierra Nevada Mountain summit is 
 seven thousand feet above the level of the sea, which is one thousand 
 feet greater elevation than any other railroad summit in the world; 
 and the Rocky Mountains cannot be surmounted by any pass between 
 the Rio Grande and the heads of the Missouri at much, if any, less 
 altitude. On the other hand, on the line through New Mexico, Ari- 
 zona and Southern California, there are no formidable mountain bar- 
 riers; and where the elevation is considerable, as in the pass of the 
 Sierra Madre, west of the Rio Grande, there is no snow. The Sierra 
 Nevada, on that more southern route, has sunk down almost to a j)lain, 
 and up through the magnificent valley of Southern California, cele- 
 brated for its extraordinary productiveness, there is no difficulty, 
 neither is there any difficulty between the Sierra Madre range and 
 the Colorado river, which space embraces the entire breadth, from 
 east to west, of the territory of Arizona. 
 
 The country through which this more southern route runs is all 
 valuable — very much is rich in soil, and still more, especially in Ari- 
 zona, is rich in minerals of almost every kind. It is a region of vast 
 
VALLEY OF THE PLATTE. 
 
 65 
 
 and varied productions, but one which never can be properly devel- 
 oped until a great line of railway shall connect it with the States on 
 and east of the Mississippi, and with the cities of the Pacific coast. 
 But when so connected and made easily and quickly accessible, will 
 give an impulse to our national prosperity beyond anything known in 
 our past experience. 
 
 I have no inclination to depreciate the grand and unexampled en- 
 terprise of our California brethren in pushing a railroad from Sacra- 
 mento across the Sierra Mevada range, into the rich mining State of 
 Nevada. Their energy demonstrates that, although in choice of 
 routes they naay find it necessary to traverse the dreary and serpen- 
 tine valley of the Humboldt to reach the region of Salt Lake, the 
 great work will still go on, conferring immense material benefits, and 
 generously rewarding them for their outlay. Nor am I at all inclined 
 to underrate the other great work of making a road from Omaha, up 
 the valley of the Platte, and over the Eocky Mountain range, to 
 the great valley of Utah; for this, too, will be a road the value of 
 which it would be difiicult to estimate ; as over it Southern Dacotah, 
 Idaho and Utah, at least, can be reached. But as to the value of the 
 country over which these two divisions of one great line will pass, as 
 compared with that of the “Eastern Division ” through Kansas, Colo- 
 rado, New Mexico and Arizona, there is an incalculable difference. 
 
 Alexander K. McClure, Esq., editor of the Chambersburg Repository^ 
 who went up the U. P. Eailroad of the Platte in May last, thus de- 
 scribes the valley of that river : 
 
 “ There are but few settlers on the line of the road ; and after we 
 enter what is called the Platte Plains, about Fort Kearney, there 
 seems to be little that can ever invite the husbandman. The valley 
 or vast plain is bounded on every side by vast bluffs, ranging from 
 twenty to thirty miles apart, and the bluffs seem to be terribly sterile 
 and repulsive. The Platte river rolls lazily along south of the rail- 
 road, hugging the southern bluffs at times, and again striking out 
 near the centre of the valley ; but it tires the eye to look at it and 
 its surroundings. It is a murky, shallow, treacherous stream, with 
 shifting sand for its bed, and naked banks skirting it most of the way. 
 I have looked for miles along its banks without seeing so much as a 
 shrub, much less a tree ; but at times, where it nears the bluffs, it puts 
 
 out along its banks a stunted, miserable growth of cottonwood 
 
 The valley is a miserable waste, and I fear ever must be 
 
 I have not found a single stream in it but the Platte river — the 
 whole plain thus far, north of the river, not furnishing a single tribu- 
 
 ly There is not a habitation on the route for nearly two 
 
 hundred miles, but such as are necessary to accommodate the railroad 
 and travel.” 
 
 6 
 
t>6 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 An intelligent gentleman of close and accurate powers of observa- 
 tion, who, in the summer of 1859, travelled leisurely across the conti- 
 nent to California, furnished the author with an extended and mi- 
 nutely graphic description of the country over which he travelled — 
 to wit, the valley of the Platte, the mountains north of Denver, the 
 basin of Utah north of Salt Lake, the valley of the Humboldt, and 
 thence to the Sierra Nevada — very nearly the route of the Union 
 Pacific Eailway of the Platte, and that of the Central Pacific Eail- 
 road from Sacramento to Salt Lake. Upon reaching the eastern base 
 of the Sierra Nevada range, under the head of ‘‘General Eemarks 
 upon the region traversed,” he said : 
 
 “ The country passed over from Fort Laramie to this place is good 
 for nothing, unless I except Bear Eiver Yalley; and that is said to be 
 too cold for agricultural purposes. Certainly it is good for nothing 
 else. With the exception of that about Bear Eiver, the land is gen- 
 erally poor and rocky. The low bottoms on the head of the Hum- 
 boldt are rich; but there we had ice before the middle of August; 
 and from that down it is too dry, even if it would otherwise do. 
 Then there is no timber, except a little on the main range of the 
 Eocky Mountains, till we come to Bear Eiver, and none from that, 
 except a few scrubby cedars, until we come to the Sierra Nevada 
 mountains. The Indians live on it, but how no one knows. And 
 then nine-tenths of this extensive region are mountains. I do not 
 believe that it will ever be anything but what it now is.” 
 
 It is manifest that a road through such a region must be mainly 
 dependent upon its through business for its revenue. Yet the enter- 
 prise is a good one ; for by no other can the Black Hill country. 
 Southern Dacotah, the great Salt Lake valley, and the head of Lewis 
 river, which runs through the best part of Idaho, be reached. But 
 whether it is destined ever to be a safe and reliable route to Califor- 
 nia remains to be seen. How its managers are to cope with the tre- 
 mendous difficulties, topographical and climatic, towards which they 
 are driving with unprecedented speed, and with a boldness which, in 
 the eyes of ordinary men, borders on recklessness, is a question not 
 yet solved. 
 
 Since the managers of the Union Pacific Eailway of the Kansas, 
 with a forecast eminently wise and prudent, have resolved to seek the 
 shores of the Pacific by a more southern line, strictly speaking, there 
 is no longer any rivalry or competition between these two great 
 national enterprises. Each will develop the region through which 
 it passes, be its natural value what it may; and both may reach the 
 bay of San Francisco, one approaching it from the northeast, through 
 Northern California, the other from the southeast, through Southern 
 
THE ROUTE BEYOND KANSAS. 
 
 67 
 
 California. The one will render Utah and Nevada accessible, and 
 probably be the means of rooting out the social abominations exist- 
 ing in the former territory; the other will bring the beautiful plains 
 and valleys, and the innumerable mines of gold, silver and copper of 
 the more southern range of States and territories within easy reach 
 of the great body of the American people. And whatever may he the 
 amount and value of the through trade of the latter, whether more or 
 less, its way business cannot fail to be enormous. Although but little 
 more than halfway through Kansas, it is already profitable, as I have 
 heretofore shown, both to the Government and the Company; and I 
 now intend to show that there is not likely to be a secGon of a hun- 
 dred miles on the entire route but will contribute handsomely in some 
 shape to its revenue and support. I now propose to speak more par- 
 ticularly of 
 
 THE ROUTE BEYOND KANSAS. 
 
 Pond Creek, the point to which a number of the gentlemen of our 
 party extended their excursion, is two hundred miles west of Fort 
 Harker, up the valley of the Smoky Hill, and four hundred and twen- 
 ty-five miles west of the Missouri river at Kansas City. It is one 
 hundred and eightj^-seven miles southeast of Denver, and four hun- 
 dred and two miles northeast of Santa Fe. It is to this point that 
 the Government subsidy of bonds to this road, granted by Act of Con- 
 gress, extends. It is within some six or eight miles of the eastern 
 line of Colorado, and a little nearer to the southern line of Kansas 
 than the place of beginning. 
 
 Of the country through which the road passes in the State of Kan- 
 sas, I have already spoken so fully that I need not advert to it here. 
 At Pond Creek, or somewhere in that vicinity, the southwestern line 
 leaves the line to Denver — now being located (and which is hy no 
 means abandoned) — and passes over a rolling buffalo-grass prairie 
 “ divide’^ to Fort Lyon, on the Arkansas, a distance of about sixty- 
 five miles. An extensive district of very good agricultural land lies 
 around Fort Lyon. Leaving Fort Lyon, the line follows the valley of 
 the Purgatoire* river, in a southwest direction, over one hundred and 
 twenty miles — ■ still through a buffalo-grass region — to the eastern 
 base of the Eaton mountain, which is covered with a heavy growth 
 of valuable timber, and abounds in. coal of superior quality, some of 
 the veins being from eleven to thirteen feet in thickness.f 
 
 * This name is generally, but incorrectly, written Purgatory on our maps. Out on 
 the plains some of our fellows have corrupted it into “ Picket-wire.'^ 
 
 f Since my return home I received a letter from a gentleman in St. Louis, stating 
 that Mr. Sanderson, proprietor of the Santa Fe stages, had brought to that city some 
 
68 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 [While compiling these letters for publication in this form, I saw a 
 letter from a gentleman of great energy and intelligence, with whom 
 I am well acquainted, and who is exploring that country. He writes: 
 
 “This part of Colorado is said to be the richest and best in the 
 whole territory; and with its splendid climate, tempered in the sum- 
 mer by the mountain breezes, and so mild in winter, that such snow 
 as falls does not lie more than two or three days, its pure, dry atmo- 
 sphere — these valleys being a mile above tide — together with the 
 views of the Spanish Peak, Greenhorn Mountain, and the main range 
 of the Eocky Mountains, which are constantly visible, I honestly be- 
 lieve that, when made accessible by the railroad, it will be the great 
 sanitarian of the United States.” 
 
 In another place he says : “ The country I passed through yester- 
 day, at the foot of the Eaton Mountains, and in the valleys of numer- 
 ous creeks which empty into the Purgatoire, is very rich and beauti- 
 ful, and contains numerous ranches. It resembles the best part of 
 East Tennessee, is exceedingly healthy, and well protected from the 
 extreme rigors of winter, so that animals do not require to be shel- 
 tered.” 
 
 Again he says : — “The pine timber a few miles west of Trinidad, 
 on the Purgatoire, and extending up that mountain country, is repre- 
 sented as exceedingly large and abundant. Mr. Bransford thinks 
 that Eastern Kansas will rely for its supply of lumber upon this coun- 
 try as soon as the railroad is built.” He fully confirms all I have 
 stated as to the abundance of coal in that country.] 
 
 Skirting the eastern base of this mountain for over one hundred 
 miles — the mountain being on the right and the vast and fertile 
 plains of northwestern Texas on the left — passing Fort Union, the 
 great distributing depot for government supplies for all the South- 
 west — the line turns more to the west, and reaches the Eio Grande at 
 the town of Albuquerque, seventy-five miles southwest of Santa FA 
 
 NEW MEXICO. 
 
 Hear the head of Purgatoire Eiver the line enters the territory of 
 Hew Mexico, after having run about two hundred miles diagonally 
 across the southeast corner of Colorado — the most fertile portion of 
 that territory, anh in which, as already stated, there are extensive 
 deposits of coal and forests of pine timber. Hew Mexico has an area 
 
 specimens of excellent bituminous coal, wbich he took from veins of from eleven to 
 thirteen feet in thickness, which crop out of the slope of the Raton mountain, 170 
 miles southwest of Pond Creek, on the natural route of the Union Pacific Railway 
 of the Kansas. It is hardly possible to estimate the value of such a coal mine in 
 such a locality. 
 
NEW MEXICO. 
 
 69 
 
 of 121,201 square miles, nearly two-thirds of which lie east of the Eio 
 Grande, which bisects the territory the entire distance from North to 
 South. The northwestern quarter of New Mexico is among the most 
 rugged and mountainous regions on the continent, but rich in miner- 
 als. The entire eastern portion is comparatively level, being the 
 most western portion of the great fertile plains which slope towards 
 the Mississippi and the Gulf, and are drained by the more southern 
 tributaries of the Arkansas, the Eed Biver and some of the larger 
 streams of western Texas. The southern half, from Albuquerque to 
 the southern boundary, is a country of diversified aspect, made up of 
 hills and valleys. The valleys are exceedingly fertile and peculiarly 
 adapted to the culture of the vine. Mr. Hall, in his valuable work, 
 “ Guide to the Great West,” remarks : 
 
 “ The valleys and slopes in the eastern section consist generally of 
 very productive land, the soil in this part being adapted to the culture 
 of sugar.” Again he says : “ Cotton of good quality is grown in the 
 southern part of the Territory; and the wine of the region, from 
 Scorro, or even from Albuquerque, to the Texas line at Franklin, or the 
 Mexican line at El Paso, is celebrated for its fine quality. Peaches 
 are excellent and abundant in the southern part of the Territory.” 
 
 There is probably no portion of North America so well adapted to 
 the rearing of sheep as New Mexico. Already millions are found 
 there ; and were there a communication by rail, their numbers could 
 be indefinitely increased. While out beyond Fort Biley I saw many 
 Mexican wagons, with large bodies, loaded with wool, not in sacks, 
 but in bulk. These wagons were unloaded into warehouses at the 
 railroad stations, just as hay is thrown loose into a barn and tramped 
 down. I examined some of this wool and found it to be of very good 
 quality. As it requires at least two months for one of these wagon 
 trains — each wagon drawn by four yoke of oxen and attended by 
 two men — to make the trip from Santa Fe to Junction City, the 
 expense of carrying this wool cannot be less than one hundred and 
 fifty dollars per ton. With heavier return loads, and more ascending 
 grade, it takes three months for the Santa Fe trains to make the 
 return trips. 
 
 But, after all, the great value of New Mexico is in its mineral trea- 
 sures, gold, silver and copper. Discoveries of rich mines of gold have 
 recently been reported, but the information is yet too vague to war- 
 rant more than a general mention of the fact. Bituminous coal exists 
 in great abundance on the eastern slopes ; and near the Old Placer 
 gold mine, about twenty-seven miles southeast of Santa Fe, and but a 
 few miles from the contemplated route of this road, Anthracite Coal 
 has been found. Of this Mr. Hall says : 
 
70 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 “ The coal bed at the Placer Diggings is very accessible and easily 
 worked, measuring from four feet eight inches to four feet ten inches 
 in thickness, and is generally very free from earthy or other impuri- 
 ties. It seems to be a true Anthracite, not semi-bituminous, but as 
 destitute of bitumen as the Pennsylvania variety.’^ 
 
 Crossing the Eio Grande at Albuquerque, the line of the road pur- 
 sues a western course over the Sierra Madre, (or, as some maps have 
 it, the Sierra de los Mirnbres,) and enters Arizona about midway 
 between the northern and southern boundaries of the Territory. But 
 of that important Territory — containing, probably, more mines of 
 gold, silver and copper than any other portion of our national domain 
 of equal extent — I propose to speak in my next letter. 
 
 LETTEE XYII . — Arizona — California. 
 
 Allegheny City, July 31, 1867. 
 
 ARIZONA. 
 
 This large Territory, the area of which is 120,912 square miles, is 
 bounded on the north by Utah, on the east by New Mexico, on the 
 west by California, and on the south by Sonora, one of the most valu- 
 able of the States of Mexico. Its northern line is on the same parallel 
 as the southern line of Kansas, 37 degrees; its southwestern corner, 
 on the Colorado river at Fort Yuma, about forty miles above tide, is 
 in latitude 32 degrees 30 minutes. 
 
 From the Eio Grande at Albuquerque, where it is intended that this 
 road shall cross that river, to the eastern boundary of Arizona in lati- 
 tude 35 degrees, the distance is about 120 miles. From the river to 
 the summit of the Sierra Madre range is about ninety miles, up which 
 the ascent is said to be gentle. On the western side the country 
 descends, first to the table-lands of Central Arizona, and thence to 
 Colorado and the Gulf of California, a distance of four to five hundred 
 miles. 
 
 Entering Arizona a little north of the middle of the eastern bound- 
 ary, the route runs directly through the midst of the Territory, pass- 
 ing by the town of Prescott, the capital, thence in the same general 
 direction, down th6 valley of Williams river to its mouth in latitude 
 thirty-four degrees thirty minutes. To this point the Colorado aifords 
 good steamboat navigation at nearly all seasons from the head of the 
 Gulf of California. 
 
 Between the point where the route enters the Territory to the 
 town of Prescott, a distance of about 150 miles, the country has a 
 considerable elevation, is well watered, and has a healthy and delicious 
 
ARIZONA. 
 
 71 
 
 climate. This is the region spoken of by Hon. Eichard McCormick, 
 Secretary of the Territory, in the following extracts from a valuable 
 paper which he prepared for Halfs “ Guide to the Great WestC’ 
 “Yavapai county embraces a part of Arizona as yet unknown to 
 map-makers, and in which the Territorial officers arrived hard upon 
 the heels of the first white inhabitants. Until 1863, saving for a short 
 distance above the Gila, it was, even to the daring trapper and the 
 adventurous gold-seeker, a terra incognita^ although one of the richest 
 mineral, agricultural, grazing, and timber divisions of the Territory, 
 and abundantly supplied with game. Yavapai county is nearly as 
 large as the State of New York. The Yerde and Salina rivers, tribu- 
 taries of the Gila, which run (southwardly) through its centre, abound 
 in evidences of a former civilization. Here are the most extensive and 
 impressive ruins to be found in the Territory- — relics of cities, aque- 
 ducts, acquias, and canals, of mining and farming operations, and of 
 other employments indicating an industrious and enterprising people. 
 Mr. Bartlett refers to these ruins as traditionally reported to him, to 
 show the extent of the agricultural population formerly supported 
 here, as well as to furnish an argument to sustain the opinion that this 
 is one of the most desirable positions for an agricultural settlement of 
 
 any between the Eio Grande and the Colorado. 
 
 “ In timber lands Yavapai county exceeds all others in the Territory. 
 Beginning some miles south of Prescott, and running north of the San 
 Francisco Mountain, is a forest of yellow pine interspersed with oak, 
 sufficient to supply all the timber for building material, for mining, 
 and for fuel that can be required for a large population. 
 
 “Prescott, the capital, is in the heart of a mining district second, 
 in my judgment, to none upon the Pacific coast. The surface ores of 
 thirty mines of gold and silver and copper, which I had assayed in 
 San Francisco, were pronounced equal to any surface ores ever tested 
 by the metallurgists, who are among the most skilful and experienced 
 in the city; and so far as ore has been had from a depth, it fully sus- 
 tains its reputation. The veins are large and boldly defined, and the 
 ores are of varied classes, usually such as to be readily and inexpen- 
 sively worked, while the facilities for working them are of a superior 
 order. At the ledges is an abundant supply of wood and water; near 
 at hand are grazing and farming lands, and roads may be opened in 
 any direction without great cost. The altitude is so great that the 
 temperature is never oppressively warm; the nights, even in mid- 
 summer, are refreshingly cool and bracing.’^ 
 
 Such is the district through the midst of which the Union Pacific 
 Eailway will run for two-thirds of its way across the Territory of 
 
72 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 Arizona — the very kind of country to furnish the largest amount of 
 local trade in proportion to its area and population, as well as to add 
 most rapidly to the general wealth of the nation. Would we pay off 
 our national debt and return to a metallic currency, there is nothing 
 that we can do to bring about those ends so effective as to open a 
 highway into this now remote and almost inaccessible national 
 treasury. 
 
 From Prescott to the western boundary of the territory, which is 
 the Colorado river, the line of the road will probably follow the valley 
 of the Williams river, one of the principal tributaries of the Colorado, 
 which has its source a few miles west of that town. Of this river Mr. 
 McCormick says : 
 
 “Ascending the Colorado, the first point of interest is Williams’ 
 Fork. It is the largest tributary of the Colorado, and has its rise in 
 the interior country almost as far east as Prescott. It is not naviga- 
 ble, but usually has a good body of water. Some of the richest copper 
 mines in the territory are on its banks, and have already been exten- 
 sively and profitably worked.” 
 
 Several silver mines are marked on the national maps in the valley 
 of this river. At its mouth is the town of Aubry, said to be in a fine 
 location for a city. This is likely to be the principal city of Arizona. 
 It is a very important point on the line of this road, for here the first 
 navigable water on the Pacific side is reached ; and from this point a 
 large trade, both down and up the river, and indeed with the entire 
 Pacific coast, may be established in advance of the road reaching its 
 ultimate destination — San Francisco. The most western steamboat 
 navigation on the Atlantic side of the continent, on this line, is at 
 Kansas City; the most eastern on the Pacific side is at Aubry. But, 
 even after the road shall be completed, Aubry will continue to be an 
 important commercial centre, and pour upon this road from that great 
 river a large amount of business ; for the entire country above is sur- 
 passingly rich in mines of gold and silver, especially the latter, and the 
 river is navigable for hundreds of miles during part of the year. 
 
 It is, I am informed, the opinion of some of our army officers that 
 at Fort Mohave, about half a degree north of Aubry, is a better place 
 for a railroad to cross that river into California. I, however, adhere 
 to the line here indicated until careful surveys west of the river shall 
 determine the question between these two points. 
 
 I have thus traced the route of the Union Pacific Eailway through 
 the Territory of Arizona, on a line which the company believe to be 
 the most practicable, and the one which will enable them to render 
 accessible the best and richest portion of the great region lying be- 
 
CALIFORNIA. 
 
 73 
 
 % 
 
 tween the Mississippi and the Pacific coast. While in some mea- 
 sure they run round the tremendous mountain system of the inte- 
 rior of the continent, they bear as close to it as they can. They 
 run but little below the 35th parallel, which is only two degrees 
 south of the southern line of Kansas. 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 At Aubry, as before remarked, the line of the road enters the State 
 of California. Thence its course is westward until it turns the south- 
 ern extremity of the Sierra Nevada range, and thence northwest all 
 the way up the great valley of Southern California, to the Bay of San 
 Francisco, a distance of between four and five hundred miles. 
 
 This is known to be one of the finest valleys on the continent. The 
 Sierra Nevada bounds it on the northeast, the Coast Kange on the 
 southwest — the mountains, the valley, and the coast all running in 
 parallel lines. The average width of this valley is not much less than 
 one hundred miles ; and although it has not yet been twenty years in 
 the possession of people who did anything to develop its resources, and 
 although it is cut off from the ocean by the Coast Eange of mountains, 
 and is destitute of any navigable rivers, except for a short distance 
 southeast of the Bay of San Francisco, it is already renowned through- 
 out the world for its extraordinary productiveness — its wheat, its 
 grapes, and many other things. Its only commercial avenues are 
 wagon-roads ; yet within a year bread made from wheat which grew 
 in that valley has been on our tables here in Pittsburgh. 
 
 Of Southern California as a grape-producing country, Mr. Hittel 
 remarks : 
 
 “ California vineyards produce ordinarily twice as much as the vine- 
 yards of any other grape district, if general report be true. The 
 grape crop never fails as it does in every other country. Vineyards 
 in every other country require more labor, for here the vine is not 
 trained to a stake, but stands alone.” 
 
 Mr. Hall remarks : “ The grape region extends from the southern 
 boundary a distance of 595 miles north, with an average breadth from 
 east to west of about 100 miles.” This area extends a considerable 
 distance up the Sacramento river, which flows southward through the 
 same valley, and breaks through the coast range almost directly east 
 of San Francisco. 
 
 The large county of Los Angelos, which is the second county that 
 our road reaches after entering the State, is the principal vine-grow^ 
 ing district in California. In 1864 it had 3,570,000 vines. A Califor- 
 nia paper of 1865 mentions a vine growing at Oroville, on the western 
 
74 ^ KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 slope of the Sierra Nevada, which was planted in 1859, which has 
 grown straight and almost of a uniform size, and measured thirteen 
 inches in circumference for ten feet from the ground. Its yield of 
 fruit that year was estimated at eight hundred pounds. 
 
 The quicksilver mines of California extend from Mendocina county, 
 north of San Francisco, along the Coast Eange, all the way to the 
 Colorado river, and on the northeastern slope; consequently this road 
 will run near to them for a distance of over four hundred miles. 
 This is an interest the extent and importance of which it is yet im- 
 possible to estimate, as these mines have been but imperfectly devel- 
 oped thus far. 
 
 Such is the region through which the line of this road will run from 
 Aubry, on the Colorado, to San Francisco. When this great valley 
 shall be occupied — as it soon would be were this road made through 
 it — no part of the route, not even Kansas, would furnish more local 
 business both in freight and passengers. 
 
 LETTEE XYIII. — Length of the respective Routes. — Latitude and 
 Longitude of the principal Points. 
 
 Allegheny City, August 3, 1867. 
 
 LENGTH OF THE RESPECTIVE ROUTES. 
 
 The length of any route for a railroad from the Missouri to San 
 Francisco is not yet known. The best that has been done has been 
 to make proximate estimates. To keep down the gradients of a road 
 through an extensive mountain region to what is required on a rail- 
 road, necessarily extends the length greatly beyond that of ordinary 
 wagon roads through the same region. Across plains, such as those 
 which stretch between the Missouri and the mountains, on both the 
 Kansas and the Platte routes, the difference is not much between the 
 wagon road and the railroad. 
 
 The enterprising gentlemen who are pushing forward the Union 
 Pacific Eailroad of the Platte with a rapidity without example, pro- 
 pose to run directly across the mountain region which begins a little 
 beyond where they now are at work, and ends only on the banks of 
 the Sacramento, while those who, with no less spirit and energy, are 
 urging forward the Union Pacific Eailway of the Kansas, propose — 
 and I think very wisely — to bear a little southward, and thus avoid 
 all the formidable mountain ranges. It is certain that by so doing 
 they will greatly reduce their gradients. They will avoid the tremen- 
 dous snow-drifts of the route through the mountains, and find a far 
 
LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE. ^ 75 
 
 better and more productive country through which to run. Of that 
 I have already spoken. 
 
 But will they lengthen their route from the Missouri to San Fran- 
 cisco by running round this labyrinth of mountains by a single grand 
 detour, rather than by winding round them in detail, as they would 
 have been compelled to do, had they adopted the other alternative? 
 No man can answer that question yet. But if they have made it 
 longer, they have also made it leveler, safer, and certainly more profit- 
 able. I know that the impression generally prevails, that this southern 
 route through New Mexico and Arizona will be longer than if it had 
 been run through Utah and Nevada. But, after all, that impression 
 may be erroneous. With much care I have prepared the following 
 table of the latitude and longitude of points on the two routes — that 
 of the Kansas road, and that of the Platte. The points on the Union 
 Pacific Eailway of the Kansas are printed in Eoman characters; 
 those of the Union Pacific Eailroad of the Platte in Italics. 
 
 Latitude and Longitude of the Frincipal Points on Loth Routes. 
 
 North of South of 
 
 
 Latitude. 
 
 Longitude. 
 
 San Franc. 
 
 San Franc. 
 
 Kansas City, 
 
 39° 
 
 94° 35' 
 
 1°15' 
 
 — 
 
 Omaha, ....... 
 
 41° 20' 
 
 95° 55' 
 
 3° 35' 
 
 
 Pond Creek, 
 
 38° 50' 
 
 101° 50' 
 
 1° 5' 
 
 
 Platte Station, North Platte, 
 
 41° 15' 
 
 101 ° 
 
 3° 30' 
 
 
 Albuquerque (Kio Grande), 
 
 35° 5' 
 
 106° 30' 
 
 
 2° 40' 
 
 Bridget's Pass {^Summit of Rocky Mountains), 
 
 41° 35' 
 
 107° 
 
 3° 50' 
 
 
 Prescott (Centre of Arizona), 
 
 34° 35' 
 
 112° 5' 
 
 
 3° 10' 
 
 Northern End of Salt Lake, 
 
 41° 45' 
 
 113° 
 
 40 
 
 
 Aubry (Colorado Kiver), .... 
 
 34° 20' 
 
 114° 10' 
 
 — 
 
 3° 25' 
 
 Northern Bend of Humboldt River, 
 
 41° 5' 
 
 117° 40' 
 
 3° 20' 
 
 
 San Francisco, 
 
 37° 45' 
 
 122° 30' 
 
 
 
 It will be observed from this that the Platte road really bears more 
 to the north of the parallel of San Francisco than the Kansas road 
 does to the south of it. And it will also be observed that the point 
 at which the Platte route attains the summit of the Eocky Mountains 
 is twenty-five geographical miles further north of San Francisco than 
 Aubry, the extreme southern deflection of the Kansas route, is south 
 of it. Again, it will be observed that the north bend of the Humboldt 
 river is more than three degrees nearer to the meridian of San Fran- 
 cisco than Aubry, while it is almost as far north as Aubry is south. 
 A careful study of this table will shake the opinion that the southern 
 line must necessarily be longer than the northern, even should the 
 latter not be more tortuous. I do not assert that it is not longer, 
 
76 
 
 , KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 because 1 do not know ; but I have laid before the reader data from 
 which, with the aid of a good map, he can make calculations for him- 
 self. 
 
 The Platte road will be completed if it is in human power to do it, 
 for the legislation is complete and the appropriations are made ; but 
 even should the difficulties be such that it can never be a Pacific road, 
 yet as an avenue to the vast interior region into which it runs — Ne- 
 braska, Southern Dakota, Southern Idaho, and Utah — it will be of 
 incalculable value — worth far more than it has cost. Over the other 
 road, however, no such contingencies are pending. There are neither 
 impracticable mountain passes nor uncontrollable snow-drifts. There 
 are no formidable obstacles, either topographical or climatic ; and the 
 entire country through which it passes is good. It will open up a 
 country which, when its manifold resources shall be developed — *as 
 they soon will be when made accessible — will add to the national 
 wealth immeasurably beyond what it will cost. In fact it will cost 
 the Government nothing, for it will be self-sustaining. It is that 
 already, and its revenues will unquestionably increase in a ratio 
 greater than its onward progress. 
 
 LETTEE XIX . — Eastern Connections — Table of Distances. 
 
 Allegheny City, August 5, 1867. 
 
 As already stated, the main line of the Union Pacific Eailway, E. D., 
 begins at Kansas City, which brings it in line and connection with 
 the old Pacific Eailroad of Missouri, which begins at St. Louis and 
 terminates at Kansas City, the western boundary of the State of 
 Missouri. So it might with truth be said that the Union Pacific Eail- 
 way of the Kansas begins at St. Louis. By a branch road from Law- 
 rence to Leavenworth, a little more than thirty miles long, belonging 
 to the same company, the Kansas road has a second terminus on the 
 Missouri, over which the enterprising people of Leavenworth hope to 
 turn the trade of all the roads east of the Mississippi which do not 
 converge upon St. Louis. 
 
 But with the rivalry between Leavenworth and Kansas City we 
 have nothing to dcf. For the present we shall take Kansas City as 
 our initial point. 
 
 We have already seen how St. Louis is connected with Kansas City 
 by the old Missouri Pacific, 283 miles in length. In a few months 
 Chicago will have almost as direct a connection with it, by way of 
 the Chicago, Burlington, and Quincy road to Quincy, 265 miles; 
 thence to Cameron, on the Hannibal and St. Joseph road, 170 miles; 
 
TABLE OF DISTANCES. 
 
 77 
 
 thence by the Cameron and Kansas City branch, on which they are 
 now vigorously at work, 55 miles. Total from Chicago to Kansas 
 City, 490 miles. 
 
 From Kansas City to the Mississippi river at St. Louis, 283 miles 
 
 From Kansas City to the Mississippi river at Quincy, 225 miles 
 
 Diiference in favor of Quincy, 58 miles 
 
 At Quincy a bridge across the Mississippi is in progress, which will 
 enable cars to run through from Chicago, or from New York and 
 Boston for that matter, to the farthest extremity of the Union Pacific 
 of the Kansas, for the gauge throughout the entire distance, whether 
 through Pennsylvania or Kew York, except the Kew York and Erie 
 and the Great Western, is the same. In a short time a bridge across 
 the Missouri at Kansas City will be built.* So far, therefore, the City 
 of Chicago has the advantage over St. Louis for the trade of the 
 magnificent region through which the Kansas road runs, and that 
 advantage it will retain until a bridge shall be constructed over the 
 Mississippi at St Louis. 
 
 Distances from Kansas City to Kew York through 
 Pennsylvania. 
 
 Via St. Louis, Indianapolis, Columbus, Steubenville, Pittsburgh, and Allentown. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Kansas City to St. Louis, . 283 
 
 St. Louis to Indianapolis, ........ 262 
 
 Indianapolis to Columbus, • 188 
 
 Columbus to Pittsburgh, ........ 193 
 
 Pittsburgh to Kew York, via Allentown, 431 
 
 Via Cameron, Quincy, Chicago, Pittsburgh, and Allentown. 
 
 Kansas City to Cameron, 55 
 
 Cameron to Quincy, ....... .170 
 
 Quincy to Chicago, ■ . . . 265 
 
 Chicago to Pittsburgh, ........ 468 
 
 Pittsburgh to Kew York, as above, ...... 431 
 
 ~TM9 
 
 * A correspondent of the Philadelphia Press, writing from Kansas City, August 21, 
 1867, states that the corner-stone of the Cameron Railroad bridge across the Missouri 
 at that city was laid that afternoon amid great enthusiasm, and in the presence of 
 5000 people. He says: “Assurance is given by Mr. Chanuette, the chief engineer, 
 that the structure will be completed in one year. The bridge will be of iron, 1400 
 feet long, with a draw in the channel of 362 feet. There will be six stone piers, with 
 spans of 250 feet, and a carriage-way as well as a railroad track. This bridge, with 
 the one now building across the Mississippi at Quincy, will give us a through con- 
 nection, without breaking bulk, with New York and Boston.” 
 
78 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 Via Cameron, [Hannibal and St. Joseph R. R. to Quincy,) Toledo, Wabash, and Western 
 R. R., Fort Wayne and Pittsburgh R. R., and Penna. R. R., via Allentown to New 
 
 York. Miles. 
 
 Kansas City to Cameron, . 55 
 
 Cameron to Quincy, 170 
 
 Quincy to Springfield, Illinois, ....... 114 
 
 Springfield to Fort Wayne, 268 
 
 Fort Wayne to Pittsburgh, 320 
 
 Pittsburgh to New York, as before, 431 
 
 1358 
 
 From Kansas City to Philadelphia the foregoing distances are 
 respectively 76 miles less, to wit, 1282, 1313, and 1283. 
 
 Distances erom Kansas City to Kew York, through the State 
 
 OF New York. 
 
 Kansas City to Chicago, via Quincy as above, .... 490 
 
 Chicago to Buffalo, via Southern Michigan, &c., . . . 538 
 
 Buffalo to Albany (N. Y. Central), ...... 298 
 
 Albany to New York (Hudson Eiver E. E.), .... 144 
 
 1470 
 
 Via Dunkirk and the New York and Erie Railroad. 
 
 Kansas City to Chicago, ........ 490 
 
 Chicago to Dunkirk (S. Mich. Lake Shore, &c.), . . . 498 
 
 Dunkirk to New York, ........ 460 
 
 “1448 
 
 It will be seen from this at a glance that the Union Pacific Eailway 
 of the Kansas accommodates quite as well the trade and travel of the 
 basin of the Great Lakes as of the valley of the Ohio, — that no loca- 
 tion on the farther bank of the Missouri could have been more fortu- 
 nately chosen as the starting-point for a great road across the conti- 
 nent than the mouth of the Kansas river. All the great lines east of 
 the Mississippi can reach it with equal facility and at ver}^ nearly 
 equal distances. By two of them — one crossing the Mississippi at 
 St. Louis, the other at Quincy — the difference in distance between 
 Kansas City and New York is but one mile; and the difference be- 
 tween the routes through St. Louis and Chicago, from one of those far 
 distant points to the other, is only thirty -two miles. 
 
 LETTEE XX. — Branch Hoads — To Galveston from three Points in 
 Kansas — To Penver — Down the Rio Grande into Mexico — To 
 Guaymas — To San Diego — Effect upon Mexico — General Remarks. 
 
 Allegheny City, August 6, 1867. 
 
 A CAREFUL examination of a good map of North America will con- 
 vince any one who will make it that so sure as the Union Pacific 
 
BRANCH ROADS. 
 
 79 
 
 Eailway of the Kansas — or, as it might be more briefly and deflnitely 
 designated, The Kansas Pacific Railway — shall be completed to its 
 ultimate destination, numerous important branch roads will almost 
 simultaneously be made through many parts of the extensive and 
 magnificent region which stretches all along the southern and south- 
 eastern side of the main line. Three of these branches will reach tide 
 water, — one at G-alveston, Texas, on the G-ulf of Mexico; one at Guay- 
 mas, in Sonora, on the Gulf of California ; and one at San Diego, on 
 the main coast of the Pacific ocean, nearly five hundred miles south- 
 east of San Francisco. 
 
 I appeal to the map again to show how admirably this main line is 
 calculated to put all of the Eastern, Middle, and Northwestern States 
 of the Union, east of the Missouri, into social and commercial connec- 
 tion with all that rich and productive portion of this continent, along 
 the northern border of which it runs. The trade of a million of square 
 miles can be drawn into it without going much beyond our own bor- 
 ders. But when to this is added the fact that it will reach the Pacific 
 ocean at three several, far separated and important points — Guaymas, 
 San Diego, and San Francisco — it requires no further argument to 
 prove that it will be the greatest thoroughfare in the world. 
 
 This is a road that will develop the country through which it and 
 its branches will pass and create its own business. We excursionists 
 saw how it was doing that already in Kansas ; and a few days ago, 
 while in Philadelphia, I saw how the officers of the Company there 
 were hurrying forward hundreds of cars and a corresponding number 
 of locomotives, to keep pace with the rapidly increasing trade. 
 
 I propose now to notice briefly some of these branches, either 
 actually commenced or in contemplation. 
 
 The first is that whereof the main line commences at Lawrence and 
 runs almost directly south through Kansas, through the Indian Territory 
 and through Texas, until it meets the Central Texas road, which runs 
 almost due north from Galveston. The entire distance from Lawrence 
 to Galveston is about six hundred miles, and the route is through a 
 country of unsurpassed fertility and beauty from one end to the other. 
 When I was at Lawrence in June, they were vigorously at work on 
 this road, and expected to have twenty-four miles of it finished and in 
 operation by January, 1868. The people of Kansas City are to have 
 a branch of this road from their town, which will probably unite with 
 the Lawrence branch in the valley of the Neosho, near the southern 
 border of the State. This branch, which also runs through a splendid 
 country, will almost certainly be completed at an early day. Another 
 branch of this road is projected from Junction City southward to the 
 
80 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 head of the Neosho valley — which is only about 18 miles distant — and 
 thence down that richest of the Kansas valleys until it meets the main 
 line from Lawrence near the southern border of the State. This, too, 
 will unquestionably be made sooner or later.* 
 
 From Pond Creek a branch of the main line will be made to Denver, 
 187 miles in a northeasterly direction, partly through a buffalo-grass 
 region, and one which presents no difficulties. This branch will run 
 near to the northeast base of Pike’s Peak, and for a considerable dis- 
 tance through a region of good coal and pine timber, both of which 
 will be of great value to all that country. 
 
 Between Pond Creek and Albuquerque branch roads into the mag- 
 nificent agricultural and pastoral regions which stretch far away east 
 and south of the main route, will doubtless be made. But of these I 
 cannot speak definitely. 
 
 From Albuquerque a branch road down the Eio Grande to El Paso 
 will quickly follow the construction of the main line, as it would trav- 
 erse a very rich and productive country on our side of the national 
 line, and open a direct avenue into the Mexican State of Chihuahua. 
 It is a fine country, rich in both soil and minerals ; and, if wrested 
 from the hands of the fierce Apaches, who now hold possession of a 
 large portion of it, would soon fill up with a far better population than 
 have ever yet occupied it. 
 
 From some point in Arizona a branch road from the main line to 
 Guaymas, through the rich mineral State of Sonora, will unquestion- 
 ably be made at an early day. A connection with the Pacific ocean 
 at that point would be only second in importance to that made at 
 San Francisco. It is unnecessary to enlarge upon it. 
 
 A shorter branch road would put this road in connection with 
 Libertad, another port near the head of the Gulf of California, and a 
 still shorter one with the head of the gulf at the mouth of the Colo- 
 rado river. 
 
 The last important branch is that which will run from some point 
 on the main line west of Aubry to San Diego, on the main Pacific 
 coast, but a short distance north of the southern extremity of Califor- 
 nia. It has an excellent harbor, and with such a connection with the 
 Eastern States of the Union, there is hardly a doubt but that it would 
 soon become an important commercial city. Being so much nearer 
 to the great communities in and east of the Mississippi valley, it would 
 
 * A letter from Kansas City, of August 21, says: “Arrangements relative to work 
 on the Kansas City and Fort Scott road have been brought to a final settlement, in- 
 suring the early completion of that road.” This is the same enterprise of which I 
 have just spoken. 
 
BRANCH ROADS. 
 
 81 
 
 have many advantages over its more northern rival. San Diego is a 
 little more than five degrees east of San Francisco. 
 
 If ever Mexico is to be redeemed from anarchy and misrule, it must 
 be eftected through some such agency as this. The conviction is 
 fastening itself upon the public mind that, at an early day, we shall 
 be compelled to exercise a controlling infiuence in that country ; and 
 were our people made to comprehend how quickly and easily that 
 could be done through the instrumentality of this road, by its exten- 
 sion into Mexican territory as proposed, it would give great satisfac- 
 tion, especially when they refiect that no violence will be required, — 
 nothing which can either humble Mexico or excite the jealousy of 
 other nations, — that the object of their desires can be accomplished 
 in the pursuit of legitimate and mutually beneficial commerce, free 
 from interruption by foreign powers, and exempt from all rivalry ex- 
 cept that which would arise among our citizens. For our manufac- 
 tures, we should be paid in wool, hides, animals and minerals, and 
 after a little time, when labor becomes more settled and secure, we 
 should receive the more valuable products of a tropical growth, and 
 have the satisfaction of impressing upon these people our principles 
 of justice, our system of government, and an enlightened Christian 
 civilization. 
 
 Avoiding the malarious belt which stretches along the entire east- 
 ern seaboard of Mexico, we can reach the great interior basin and the 
 western coast by a route eminently healthy and salubrious. In this 
 way we may expect the bulk of the commerce of that great basin to 
 be carried on through the United States, and over the system of roads 
 of which this will be the forerunner and main trunk. Many trains, 
 conveying passengers and merchandise, not more than five or six days 
 from St. Louis or Chicago, will daily cross the line of Mexico en route 
 for all parts of the interior and the western coast, and south to the 
 regions of the tropics, where cotton, sugar, coffee, and all the tropical 
 fruits are, or may be, with our energy, produced in abundance. 
 Those regions may be reached as easily as San Francisco, and a trade 
 may, and certainly will, be established equally valuable, to be enjoyed 
 by this road without a successful competitor. It would be a great 
 error, if, in the projection of our continental railroad system, we 
 should neglect to construct the main line in the direction so plainly 
 marked out by nature by which this trade may be commanded. 
 
 I have thus, with the best lights I could obtain, traced the entire 
 line of this magnificent national road, this world’s highway, from the 
 Missouri to the Bay of San Francisco. My aim has been to deal with 
 6 
 
82 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 facts which have a practical bearing upon the questions of the feash 
 bility and the success of the enterprise, and which will enable the 
 Citizen, the Patriot, the Statesman, and the Christian, to calculate the 
 results which are likely to follow its completion. It has been my 
 desire to give to the political economist data by which to settle the 
 question of profit and loss — the probable revenues of such a road 
 through such a country, and having such termini. We know that the 
 ardent Patriot will say, “Make it; for it will be the gloiy of our 
 country.’’ The Philanthropist will say, “Make it; for it will confer 
 blessings and benefits upon the whole human race.” The Christian 
 will say, “Make it; for it is essential to the progress of Christian 
 civilization westward, the only direction in which it has ever success- 
 fully travelled ; — make it ; for it will be a highway for our GtOD.” But 
 the Practical Man says, “ Make it, if it will pay and we know very 
 well that all the generous impulses must stand in abeyance until this 
 last practical calculation shall be satisfactorily settled. 
 
 LETTER XXL — Will it Pay? 
 
 This, after all, is the practical question — the only one, indeed, 
 which the rigid economist or the capitalist cares to ask. To say that, 
 because the enterprise is one of unexampled vastness, magnificence 
 and grandeur, therefore it will be profitable, would be to offer logic 
 which no cool calculator would think of accepting. To say that, 
 because it links two vast oceans together, and with them two hemi- 
 spheres, therefore it must surely pay, would be to offer an argument 
 equally loose, inconclusive and unsatisfactory. Were we to prove that 
 two-thirds of all the tonnage that Western Europe and Eastern Asia 
 exchange would pass over this road, we should still be far from demon- 
 strating that the enterprise would be pecuniarily profitable. G-reat as 
 would be the revenue arising from this enormous foreign trafilc, it 
 would fall far short of what would be necessary to meet the o^^erating 
 expenses and the interest on the cost of a road of such length. Like 
 all other roads, the Union Pacific must be mainly dej^endent iq^on its 
 local trade and travel for its revenue. Its foreign business will be 
 very large ; but, to be financially successful, its local and home business 
 must be still larger. 
 
 I have traced the course of this road from the Missouri to the Bay 
 of San Francisco, and set forth in terms of calm and sober verity, as 
 I believe, the character and resources of the country through which it 
 will run, and respectfully challenge any man who still doubts, to point 
 
WILL IT PAY ? 
 
 83 
 
 oat a single section of one hundred miles that is not likety to contribute 
 its share of a revenue sufficient to make this a paying road. One 
 portion will have a large surplus of the products of the soil; another 
 portion, the people of which draw their wealth, not from the soil, but 
 from the mines, will need this surplus. Ores will be sent to fuel and 
 fuel to ores. Thus there will be a large and perpetual exchange 
 between the agricultural and the mineral portions of the route — be- 
 tween the fertile prairies of the East, the coal mines and forests of 
 the first mountain slope, and the gold and silver and copper mines of 
 JSTew Mexico, Arizona and California. There is probably no single 
 line of railroad on the globe the products along the border of which 
 are at once so various and so dissimilar. This peculiarity of the line 
 of road under consideration will lead to an exchange of commodities 
 to an enormous amount, between communities hundreds of miles 
 asunder. The farmer of Kansas will probably find his best market in 
 Arizona. 
 
 But we are not left to conjecture and vague generalities as the 
 basis of our estimates. During the month of May, 1867, this road 
 was commercially open to Salina, a distance of 187 miles from Kansas 
 City. The gross earnings for that month were $172,106.28, which 
 amount, divided by 187, gives a business at the rate of eleven thousand 
 dollars per mile per annum. During the same period the net profits 
 were $72,000, or at the rate of $4,567 per mile per annum. The 
 amount of business done for the Covernment during that month — at 
 rates greatly below what had hitherto been paid for freights by wagon 
 — was a little over fifty-one thousand dollars, one half of which passed 
 to the credit of the Company on its Government bonds, enough to pay 
 the interest on all the bonds of the Company, and leave a surplus suf- 
 ficient to extinguish the principal ten years before the bonds mature. 
 The remainder of the month’s business, amounting to more than 
 $120,000, was principally local trade and travel — so rapidly is the 
 rich valley of the Kansas, through which it passes, filling up with an 
 active and prosperous population.* If such results can be shown in 
 the infancy of the enterprise, surely we may safely calculate upon 
 still richer results as the work progresses, and as the great wave of 
 population which is following it shall swell to larger and larger pro- 
 portions. 
 
 * The return for the month of June, owing to the flood, fell ofiF some 25 or 30 per 
 cent. ; but that for July was larger than that for May, the western commercial ter- 
 minus being the same. Now the end of the commercial line has been extended to 
 Wilson’s Creek, nearly 250 miles beyond Kansas City, 
 
84 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 LETTEE XXII. — TAe March of Empire. 
 
 When Bishop Berkeley penned the oft-quoted line — 
 
 “ Westward the Star of Empire takes its way,” — 
 the idea expressed by the phrase was hardly understood. “What is 
 empire?’^ asks a recent writer, and then he goes on to remark : “ We 
 have suffered our understandings to be warped by past. and existing 
 abuses on this point, until the word suggests to the mind the over- 
 grown dominions of the Caesars, or the huge and beastly realm of the 
 Czar. But God himself gave us the true idea of empire when he 
 said, ‘ Be fruitful, and multiply, and replenish the earth, and subdue 
 IT.’ This is what Bishop Berkeley means by the ‘Star of Empire;’ 
 and this is what the people of our country are now doing. This is 
 Empire in its true sense — the dominion of Man over Xature, not of 
 man over man.” 
 
 For ages warriors have striven to hew out empire with the sword, 
 and kings have labored and crushed their people to the dust, in build- 
 ing huge piles, in the vain hope of rendering those empires immortal. 
 Human toil beyond calculation has been expended in erecting things 
 which, when erected, were of less value than the ground upon which 
 they stood, and oceans of blood have been spilt in subduing regions 
 which a little well-directed and beneficent enterprise would have sub- 
 dued a thousand-fold better. This day the pyramids of Egypt stand 
 in their hugeness, immobility and silence, the emblems of a false, dead, 
 unprofitable and non-progressive civilization ; while the railroad, with 
 its rushing train, following the sun in his western course, marks and 
 represents a civilization of the opposite type. 
 
 Actuated by old and false ideas, the Emperor of France tried to 
 push empire westward by sending his armies into Mexico; and we 
 have just witnessed the tragical end of that attempt to rule the world 
 of the present day by the enforcement of obsolete ideas. Now let 
 John H. Perry, of St. Louis, a modest American citizen, send his 
 army of peaceful laborers and track-layers across the border of that 
 unhappy country, and order, peace, and true empire will result at once. 
 
 The railroad is the great agent and pioneer of civilization. Let 
 any one go away beyond the Missouri, as we did, and behold a mighty 
 tide of civilization — comfortable and well-furnished dwellings occu- 
 pied by intelligent, refined and happy people, all the useful industries 
 of life, with schools, colleges, churches, and every institution of an 
 advanced social condition — followiug closely behind the track-layers, 
 and, in some instances, going ahead of them, causing the music of 
 busy life to be heard on those beautiful prairies, where only yester- 
 day silence and solitude reigned, save only as they were broken by 
 
THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 
 
 85 
 
 the cry of the savage or the wolf, or the impetuous rush of herds of 
 buffaloes, and he will have some conception of what is now meant by 
 the March of Empire. 
 
 We have traced the line of this great continental thoroughfare from 
 the Missouri to the shores of the Pacific, — or, to use the grand language 
 of the Bible, which, in this connection, has a distinctness and signifi- 
 cance which .are absolutely startling — the river to the ends 
 
 of the earth.'''' We have reached that ocean on the one shore of which 
 the most ancient of earth’s populations are found, while the most 
 recent are found on the other, — that point on the earth’s surface 
 where days end and new days begin. We have seen its effects as far 
 as it has gone; and, from the strong attractions of the remainder of 
 the way, we may confidently expect that its progress entirely across 
 the continent will be followed by similar results — that a strong tide 
 of population will instantly follow it, carrying with it all the forces 
 and blessings of a high civilization. 
 
 But its effects will not be confined to Kansas, Colorado, Kew Mexico, 
 Arizona and California. A new and better life will flow through this 
 channel into Mexico; and, without violence to either the persons or 
 the institutions of that distracted country, it will be subdued, and 
 added, if not politically, at least socially and commercially, to our own 
 empire. Nothing can prevent it; for the Northern States of that 
 country, especially Chihuahua and Sonora, with their rich pastures, 
 their fertile valleys, and their numerous mines of the precious metals, 
 lie near to the line, and will be connected by branches wherever they 
 can be made available. A branch road will probably reach Guaymas 
 before the main line can possibly be carried to San Francisco. This 
 will give us the first and nearest Pacific port. But of this I have 
 already spoken. 
 
 My desire, however, in this closing letter, is rather to speak of this 
 road as a channel of Christian civilization than as an avenue of com- 
 merce. The course of this civilization, ever since the veil of the Jew- 
 ish temple was rent in twain, and Jew and Gentile mingled together 
 under one common banner in the service of one Lord and Master, has 
 been westward. It is westward still, and westward, like the sun in 
 his course, it is destined to continue, until it shall have completed the 
 circuit of the globe. When contemplated from this point of view, the 
 enterprise of which we speak assumes an importance and grandeur 
 beyond what the mind is able fully to grasp. The thought that we 
 are opening a channel through which new light, new life, a better 
 civilization, and the Gospel of Peace, shall flow to hundreds of millions 
 of human beings, ought to inspire every heart and nerve every arm 
 in aid of the great work. 
 
86 
 
 KANSAS AND THE COUNTRY BEYOND. 
 
 The remark was made by ODe of our excursionists, that eight hun- 
 dred millions of our race Avere interested in this enterj^rise ; and a 
 little calm discussion satisfied those who heard it that the assertion 
 was not extravagant. Its elfect will be quietly but surely to revolu- 
 tionize China and Japan ; Russia, at the remotest and most torpid 
 extremity of her vast domain, will receive a new and better life ; it 
 will restore Mexico to order and civilization ; it Avill greatly affect all 
 Western Europe ; and certainly our own people are deeply interested in 
 it. In fact, the entire northern hemisphere, from the equator to the 
 frozen zone, will feel the effect of this new avenue of commerce, this 
 new highway over which Empire is to march. 
 
 “ Subdue it,” said the Almighty, when he placed man upon the earth. 
 Subdue'what ? The earth, certainly ; but instead of doing so to any 
 effective extent, men turned their hands against their fellows, and put 
 forth their mightiest energies to subdue each other. The feeble powers 
 of isolated individuals were engaged in the one work; the combined 
 energies of tribes and nations and empires were enlisted in the other; 
 and the miserable record of the latter makes up the staple of nearly 
 all ancient and much of modern history. Now, thank Gron, we have 
 found a more excellent way. Noav our nation sends forth armies, not 
 to butcher their fellow-men, but to subdue the earth — to remove ob- 
 structions which lie in the way of the universal brotherhood of man — 
 to clear away the barriers that obstruct our progress — to prepare 
 highways over which the Prince of Peace may go in his own appointed 
 way to bless the nations. And there is something impressive in the 
 fact that this greatest of all national efforts is put forth just as the 
 most formidable barriers to human progress to be found on the globe 
 — the Rocky Mountains and the systems of mountains beyond — were 
 reached by the advancing tide of humanity westward. 
 
 The feeble hands of private and individual men could subdue the 
 forests of our Atlantic border, and they did it; but when they came to 
 what lay beyond the Missouri, and the ever-reverberating command 
 was heard, “ Subdue it,” a whole nation stood ready to yield obedience 
 to the mandate and execute the Avork. 
 
 Sherman’s “ March to the Sea,” although he necessarily marked his 
 track with devastation and blood, Avas glorious ; and men and women 
 will speak of it and sing of it for a long time to come; but the time is 
 coming when Perry’s March to another Sea, streAAung his pathway" 
 with blessings and benefits, will claim and receive tributes of eloquence 
 and song loftier and more enduring. The Auctories of 'War — some- 
 times a sad necessity — are always exhausting, ahvays shrouded in sad- 
 ness and tears; while those of Peace, however expensive, are always 
 profitable, making rich those Avho achieve them, and adding no sorrow. 
 
LATER FACTS AND DEVELOPMENTS. 
 
 Raton Mountain Coal Mines. — General 
 Wm. J. Palmer, one of the ablest and most 
 energetic officers of the Union Pacific Rail- 
 way Company, E. D., is now (Sept., 1867) on 
 a tour of reconnoissance and observation in 
 the country between the valley of the Smoky 
 Hill and the Rio Grande. He finds that as 
 regards routes there is no difficulty, as the 
 road can be run either through or around the 
 Raton mountain. In a letter from Fort Union, 
 in New Mexico, he speaks of the vast deposits 
 of coal found on that range and in the region 
 adjacent, and of the agricultural and pastoral 
 character of that country. We have only room 
 for a brief extract. He says : 
 
 “Hr. Le Conte has just arrived from his 
 examination of the coal-field, and his report 
 is very satisfactory. There is abundance of 
 good coal — very good coal — on both sides of 
 the Raton mountain, which can be readily 
 reached from the railroad line. On this side 
 of the mountain the coal extends to within 
 thirty miles of this place, and probably farther. 
 Here, then, is the great natural depot of fuel, 
 not only for this Pacific Railway, but for the 
 country contiguous to it for at least as far east 
 as Fort Harker, and as far west as — well, that 
 depends upon further explorations. 
 
 “ The country in and contiguous to the 
 Raton mountain is the finest grazing country 
 I have ever seen. I don’t think it can be ex- 
 celled; and on this side the ground is very 
 fertile, and with very little labor fine crops of 
 wheat, corn, oats and other grains are grown.” 
 
 General Palmer, in a letter of a still later 
 date, speaks of the anthracite coal mines of 
 New Mexico, which, as I have already stated, 
 (page 69,) are located but a comparatively 
 short distance from this line of road. He was 
 about to visit them. 
 
 There seems to be some degree of corre- 
 spondence beween the coal formations of New 
 Mexico and those of Pennsylvania. On the 
 slopes of the mountains, their foot-hills and 
 declining plains, bituminous coal in great 
 abundance is found, as in Western Pennsyl- 
 vania; while more in the heart of the moun- 
 tain system, as in Central Pennsylvania, the 
 anthracite variety is found. It is very prob- 
 able that the bituminous variety is little, if 
 any, less in quantity in New Mexico than in 
 Western Pennsylvania; but as to the quantity 
 of the anthracite, the explorations and re- 
 searches have not been sufficiently extended 
 to warrant any comparative estimate. 
 
 But from the fact that coal abounds in the 
 line between Pond Creek and Denver, and on 
 and around the Raton Mountain, we may 
 safely conclude that it is confined to no nar- 
 row locality; but is found, as in Western 
 Pennsylvania, in many distinct and widely 
 separated localities, in deposits of from five to 
 fifty miles in extent, and in veins of from a 
 few inches to ten and even fifteen feet in 
 thickness. These coal beds, as in Western 
 Pennsylvania, lie in nearly horizontal strata. 
 
 But for any practical utility to the country, 
 these rich mines might as well be in the moon 
 as where they are, until a railway shall be 
 constructed through that country by ivhich 
 their products can be carried both east and 
 west — to the rich agricultural region in one 
 direction, and to the rich mineral regions in 
 the other. Without a railroad, they are sim- 
 ply worthless ; but with one, the}’^ will be a 
 source of incalculable national wealth, and 
 will contribute largely to the success of this 
 great railroad enterprise. 
 
 Analysis of Raton Mountain Coal. 
 
 Philadelphia, August 5, 1867. 
 
 To the Union Pacific Railivay Co., E. D. : 
 
 The sample of coal from Raton Mountain 
 yields on analysis as follows : 
 
 Moisture, at 212° Fahrenheit, 4.74 
 
 Sulphur, 16 
 
 Volatile matter, . . S7.20 
 
 Fixed carbon, . . . 63.90 
 
 Ash, 4.00 
 
 100.00 
 
 The above analysis shows a yield at the 
 rate of 437.6 lbs. of illuminating gas per ton 
 of 2000 lbs., which is equivalent to 7439.2 
 cubic feet. You will see from the above that 
 your coal compares very favorably with any 
 of those regarded as the best for steam-gener- 
 ating purposes, and with the majority of those 
 used for the manufacture of illuminating gas. 
 
 Williams & Moss, 
 Analytical and Consulting Chemists, 
 Coal on the Pacific Slope. — Mr. W. M. 
 Gabb, in a report made to J. Ross Brown, 
 Esq., remarks : “ The great coal-bearing for- 
 mations of the world, those from which the 
 coals of Pennsylvania and the Mississippi 
 Valley are obtained, are not represented on 
 the Pacific Slope of the North American con- 
 tinent.” He, however, mentions several mines 
 of coal of inferior quality on that slope, one 
 on Mount Diablo, in Southern California, a 
 part of the Coast Range, of which he says : 
 “ There is here at least one bed of coal of con- 
 siderable size, but very poor quality and vari- 
 able thickness. Furthermore, it is so broken 
 and twisted by the disturbing forces to which 
 the rocks of the vicinity have been subjected, 
 that, even were the coal good in quality, the 
 vein could not be relied on.” 
 
 Mineral Wealth of Southern Califor- 
 nia. — On this subject I beg leave to refer the 
 reader to the Report of J. Ross Brown, Esq., 
 upon the Mineral Resources of the States and 
 Territories west of the Rocky Mountains, re- 
 cently published by authority of Congress, 
 especially copper, (page 138 et seq.,) and 
 quicksilver, (page 170 et seq.) 
 
 Copper Mines in Arizona. — J. Ross 
 Brown, Esq., in his Report to the Secretary 
 of the Treasury, upon the Mineral Resources 
 of the States and Territories west of the 
 Rocky Mountains, recently published, says : 
 
 ( 87 ) 
 
“ There are undoubted proofs of the exist- 
 ence of exceedingly valuable copper mines in 
 this Territory at various points convenient to 
 the navigable waters of the Colorado and its 
 tributaries. Mr. Pompelly, a scientific geolo- 
 gist and mineralogist, who subsequently was 
 appointed mineralogist to the Japanese Gov- 
 ernment, made an extended examination of 
 the mineral resources of Arizona, and in the 
 published report of his observations he refers 
 particularly to the extraordinary richness and 
 extent of the copper resources of the Terri- 
 tory. Other parties, who have travelled ex- 
 tensively through it since Mr. Pompelly, fully 
 corroborate all that gentleman reported on 
 this subject. Important mines have been dis- 
 covered, and districts organized at many 
 points in the Territory, among which are the 
 Irataba district, about twenty-five miles south- 
 west from Fort Mohave; the Freeman district, 
 about sixty miles south of Williams’ Fork; 
 the Chimewawa district, on the west bank of 
 the Colorado, nearly opposite La Paz ; the 
 Salaza district, about thirty-five miles north- 
 east of La Paz, and the Castle Dome district, 
 about thirty miles north of the Gila. The for- 
 mations in which the copper is found in this 
 Territory are altogether different from those 
 in which it is found in Oregon and California. 
 The ores themselves are also quite distinct, 
 and far more valuable than those found in 
 those States.” 
 
 Mr. Brown, speaking of the copper dis- 
 trict in the valley of the Williams river, says : 
 “ The Mineral Hill Company have run a tun- 
 nel on their mine for the length of 350 feet, 
 out of which, while cutting, they took nearly 
 1000 tons of ore of an average of 30 per cent., 
 the whole work from the surface being in a 
 
 body of ore. The ore in none of the mines in 
 the district is found in a regular lode, as in 
 the mines in California, but the whole country 
 appears to be formed of iron and copper.” 
 The copper exists in the form of heavy masses 
 of ore embedded in large quantities of powdery 
 oxide of iron. Sometimes, when these heavy 
 masses are removed, this dry powder comes 
 rushing down to the amount of hundreds of 
 tons. Some of the copper ore found in this 
 locality is quite rich in gold. 
 
 When the rich and exhaustless coal mines 
 of the Piaton Mountain shall be connected 
 with these Arizona mines by the Union Pacific 
 Railway, then, and not before, will the bound- 
 less wealth of that Territory be made avail- 
 able. 
 
 Exhibit of the Earnings and Expenses of 
 the Union Pacific Railwaj’^, E. D., for the 
 month of July, 1867. 
 
 To amount of Earnings, viz. : 
 Government Freight, . $47,667 24 
 “ Troops, 13,874 60 
 “ Mails, 3,003 62 
 
 Total Government, . . . $64,545 46 
 
 Merchandise and Passenger traffic, 125,025 13 
 
 Total Earnings, . . . 189,570 59 
 
 By Working Expenses, . . 104,430 77 
 
 Net Proceeds, . . . 85,139 82 
 
 The gross earnings for the month of August 
 were $236,000. 
 
 For Government transportation, $80,000 
 Freight and Passengers, , . 156,000 
 
 BILLMEYER & SMALL, 
 
 Of every description buUt at the shortest 'notice. 
 
 Capacity of the Works from two to five cars per day, according to specifications. 
 CHARLES BILLMEYER. DAVID E. SMALL. 
 
 88 
 
JoHy D. Perry, President. Adolphus Meier, Vice-President. 
 
 A Anderson, General Superintendent. W. J. Palmer, Treasurer. 
 
 Chas. B. Lamborn, Secretary. S. T. Smith, Auditor. 
 
 T F. Oakes, General Agent. Jno. M.Webster, General Freight and Ticket Agent. 
 
 SMOKY HILL KOXJTE! 
 
 EASTERN DIVISION! 
 
 OPEN FOR BUSINESS 
 
 From Wyandotte and Leavenwortli., on tlie Missouri River, to Fort Riley, 
 Junction City, Abilene, Salina, Fort Marker and Ellsworth, 
 to Hays City, Kansas, 390 miles west, and will be 
 completed to Pond Creek by 
 December 31, 186T. 
 
 In connection with the Pacific Railroad of Missouri, and the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad forms 
 
 TUB ONTLT A.XjILi E/A-IL E.OXJTB 
 
 FROM 
 
 NEW YOEK, BOSTON, PHILADELPHIA, WASHINGTON, BALTIMOHE, 
 CINCINNATI, ST- LOUIS, CHICAGO, CAIRO, MEMPHIS, 
 
 NASHVILLE, NEW ORLEANS, CHARLESTON, 
 
 And all principal Cities North, East and South. To 
 
 Lawrence, Topeha, Wamego, Manhattan, 
 
 Fort Riley, Junction City, Abilene, Solomon City, 
 Salina, Fort Harker, Ellsworth, Hays City, 
 
 Pond Creek, T>enver City, Santa Fe, Salt Lake City, 
 
 AND ALL POINTS IN 
 
 COLORADO, MONTANA, NEVADA, UTAH, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 OREGON AND NEW MEXICO. 
 
 Trains leave Wyandotte and Leavenworth daily on arrival of cars of Pacific Railroad of Mo. from St. 
 Louis, and H annibal and St. Joseph Railroad from Quincy, for all points in Western and Southern Kansas, 
 and the Territories. 
 
 THE UNITED STATES EXPRESS CO.’S OVERLAND MAIL & EXPRESS COACHES 
 
 Leave the Western Terminus of the Road daily on arrival of cars, for Denver City, Salt Lake City, Central 
 City, Boise City, and all the principal places and cities of Colorado, Montana, Nevada, Utah, Oregon and 
 California. * 
 
 BARLOW: SANDERSON 8c CO.’S SANTA FE COACHES’, 
 
 leave the end of the Road every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday for Fort Bent, Taos, Fort Union, Santa Fe, 
 Albuquerque, and all points in Arizona and New Mexico. 
 
 SCHEDULE TIME. 
 
 Denver City to New York 6 days. 
 
 Denver City to St. Louis. days. 
 
 Denver City to Chicago 4 days. 
 
 The southerly location of this route secures exemption from delays and stoppages occasioned by snow, 
 and travellers make 
 
 48 HOUJRS QUICKER TIME! 
 
 than by any other route to the Mountains. It is the most reliable and popular route between the Mississippi 
 River and the Pacific Coast. 
 
 The Rolling Stock and Equipments are new, and unsurpassed in durability and elegance. Passengers 
 taking this route save time and ensure comfort. 
 
 The choice of two first-class routes from the East is offered to shippers, and through contracts may he 
 made for freight to Denver and Santa Fe on application to any of the oflBcers of the Great Western Dispatch 
 Company, or of Woolworth & Barton, No. 264 Broadway, New York. 
 
 JNO. M. WEBSTER, ADNA ANDERSON, 
 
 General Freight and Ticket Agent. General Superintendent. 
 
 WYANDOTTE. KANSAS. WYANDOTTE. KANSAS. 
 
 89 
 
2 , 000,000 
 
 Acres of Land ! 
 
 I RICHEST 
 
 0 Lands in Kansas! 
 
 LA.NI3 DEPARTMENT 
 
 UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY, 
 
 Eastern Division. 
 
 The UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY COMPANY, EASTERN DIVISION, are now ofifering for sale 
 
 2,000,000 ACRES OF LAND! 
 
 In the Most Fertile and Productive Portion of the 
 State of Kansas, 
 
 Comprising some 250,000 acres situated in the 
 
 VALLEY OF THE KAW OE KANSAS EIVEE! 
 
 Known as the “DELAWARE INDIAN RESERVE;” 
 
 TOGETHER WITH SOME 
 
 300,000 Acres of Congressional Lands! 
 
 The above Lands lie East of Fort Riley. 
 
 The Company have also more than 1,500,000 Acres of Land for sale 
 WEST OF FORT RILEY, in the rich valleys of the 
 
 SMOKY HILL, THE SOLOMON ANH SALINE KIVEBS. 
 
 These lands are unsurpassed for fertility. The SOIL IS BLACK LOAM FROM TWO TO THREE FEET 
 IN DEPTH, and are all convenient to railroad communication, lying FOR TWENTY MILES ON EACH 
 SIDE of the 
 
 Great Sigiiway of Travel to the JPacifie Ocean ! 
 
 In the list of Grain and Stock-growing States Kansas stands preeminently first. The mildness and even- 
 ness of its climate renders Stock-raising both easy and remunerative. Cattle graze for eight months of the 
 year, and the extensive prairies afford an unlimited supply of winter provender without the labor of 
 cultivation. 
 
 Corn-planting may be commenced during the months of April, May and June. Winter Wheat, owing to 
 the absence of frosts, matures in June, and the average jdeld is 30 bushels per acre. Corn j’ields from 60 to 
 100 bushels per acre, dependent on the manner in which it is worked. 
 
 Are grown to great advantage. Peaches, Pears, Apples, Plums and Grapes, very rarely fail to produce 
 abundantly. The culture of the Grape is easy, and wine-making will in the future be one of the most 
 lucrative pursuits. There is an 
 
 ABUNDANCE OF PURE WATER 
 
 For farm and other purposes. The Eastern part of the State is particularly well watered with constant 
 streams. Springs are numerous, and where they are wanting good water can be obtained by digging from 
 15 to 30 feet. 
 
 The valley of the Saline River is rich in SALT SPRINGS, and several companies are already manufactur- 
 ing Salt for Eastern markets. 
 
 90 
 
TIMBER. 
 
 There is an abundant supply of timber in the Eastern part of the State, consisting of Oak, Walnut, 
 Hackberry, Elm and Hickory, and groves of Cottonwood and some hard wood are found along all the 
 streams west of Fort Riley. All native timber grows readily on the prairie, wherever the annual fires are 
 prevented. Hedges of Osage Orange are easily and successfully cultivated. 
 
 BUILDING MAATEBI^BS. 
 
 The finest quality of Limestone for building purposes is found throughout the State of Kansas, and crops 
 out in the Bluffs along the valleys of all the rivers. Sandstone is also found in many places. Timber is 
 supplied by numerous saw-mills in successful operation along the line of the Road. 
 
 COAL. 
 
 A stratum of coal underlies the entire eastern portion of the State, cropping out along the various streams 
 in seams of from 18 to 20 inches. A vein, some six feet thick, has been reached by borings at Fort Leav- 
 enworth. Veins of greater thickness occur near Fort Scott, and in the Sac and Fox lands. New deposits 
 are constantly being discovered. 
 
 The Climate of Kansas is Remarkably Healthful. 
 
 There are no prevailing diseases, and consumption is almost unknown. The atmosphere is clear, dry and 
 invigorating. Rains are frequent, the annual fall of rain exceeding that of western New York. 
 
 COMMOIf SCHOOL 
 
 The educational facilities are good. The common schools are endowed with large grants of land, and 
 Normal Schools are in successful operation in various parts of the State. Through the facilities offered by 
 the Railroad to emigrants seeking homes in the West, Kansas is rapidly filling up with an active, enter- 
 prising and intelligent population. It has been estimated that the population was increased 50,000 souls 
 during the year 1866. 
 
 THE UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY COMPANY, E. D„ 
 
 Now offer these lands for sale at from 
 
 $1.00 TO $5.00 Fmt ACME! 
 
 and in tracts to suit purchasers. 
 
 TERMS OF PAYMENT. 
 
 The Lands are sold for Cash or on credit. Sales are made on credit as follows: 
 
 One-fifth cash down at time of purchase. 
 
 No payment, except interest due, at end of First Tear- 
 One-fifth cash with interest due, “ “ Second “ 
 
 “ “ “ “ “ “ “ “ Third “ 
 
 “ “ “ “ “ “ “ “ Fourth “ 
 
 “ “ “ “ “ “ “ “ Fifth “ 
 
 Interest on deferred payments at 6 per cent, per annum. A DEDUCTION of 10 PER CENT, 
 on credit price will he made for cash payment in full. 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 160 acres at $2,50 per acre will cost $400, to be paid as follows ; 
 
 
 PvincipcLl. 
 
 JjiicTcst 
 
 Cash paj’ment 
 
 $80 
 
 
 End of First Year 
 
 
 $19.20 
 
 “ Second “ 
 
 “ Third “ 
 
 “ Fourth “ 
 
 
 19l20 
 
 14.40 
 
 9.50 
 
 “ Fifth » 
 
 
 L80 
 
 The same Farm may be purchased for $360 cash. 
 
 For further particulars, maps of lands, &c., address 
 
 JOHN P. DEVEREUX, 
 
 Land Commissioner, LAWRENCE, EA.NSAS. 
 
 Or CHAS. B. LAMBORN, 
 
 Secretary U. P. R. W. CO., E. D., ST. LOUIS, Mo. 
 
 91 
 
OLD RELIABLE 
 
 NORTH MISSOURI RAILWAY! 
 
 % 
 
 Great Central United States Mail and Express Route 
 
 NO OF CA.Ti& 
 
 BETWEEN 
 
 St. Louis and St. Joseph, Atchison and Leavenworth. 
 
 THE MOST DESIRABLE AND PLEASANT ROUTE TO 
 
 j"TJisroTion^ oiTir, 
 
 eijI1.swoe.th:, 
 
 HIj^.'Y’S OITT", 
 
 AND ALL POINTS IN THE FAR WEST. 
 
 CERTAIN AND CLOSE CONNECTIONS ARE MADE 
 
 ST. JOSEPH, 
 
 With the Missouri River Packet Company’s new and splendid Steamers ; also daily 
 line of Stages for NEBRASKA CITY, OMAHA and intermediate points. 
 
 AAT WORTH, 
 
 With Union Pacific Railway (E.D.) for Lawrence, Topeka, Fort Riley, Junction 
 City, Salina, Ellsworth, and Hays City. 
 
 ^T WILSOH’S ST^TIOH, 
 
 (530 Miles west of St. Louis,) 
 
 With Daily Overland Stages for Denver City, Salt Lake City and California. 
 
 92 
 
With Uniok Pacific Kailroad for Kearney and Western Terminus op Union 
 Pacific Road, where connections are made with Daily Overland Stages 
 for Denver City, Salt Lake City, and California. 
 
 Also, the Most Direct Route to all Parts of North Missouri. 
 JDJ^XXSYT E.TJIST’ 
 
 From all the Principal Stations to Interior Counties and Towns. 
 
 TO FAMILIES EMIGRATINO INTO THE STATE. 
 
 Are attached to all Freight Trains for the Special Accommodation of those who 
 desire to go with their goods and stock, and exercise personal supervision of same. 
 
 JYEWA.YS A. S EOW 
 
 AS VIA ANT OTHER ROUTE. 
 
 Baggage CHECKED Through ! 
 
 SUPERIOR 
 
 Are found on this Line, and Passengers are given ample time for Eating. 
 
 New and Elegant Sleeping-Cars, 
 
 With all Modern Improvements, have recently been pnt npon the road, and 
 
 ARE NOW ON ALE NIGHT TRAINS; 
 
 Can be purchased at all the principal Railroad Ticket Offices throughout the country, 
 
 over this line. 
 
 Be sure and ask for TICKETS via the NORTH MISSOURI RAILWAY 
 
 AND EXAMINE AND SEE THAT SUCH ARE FURNISHED YOU. 
 
 H. H. WHEELER, ISAAC H. STURGEON, 
 
 Gen’l Ticket and Freight Agent. President and Gen’l Sup’t. 
 
 93 
 
AIR-LINE ROUTE 
 
 SI 
 
 THE 
 
 (OF M i S S O U K I.) 
 
 SHORTEST, QUICKEST AND ONLY ALL RAIL LINE TO 
 
 Kansas City and Leavenworth! 
 
 THROUGH WITHOUT CHANGE OF CARS. 
 
 SLEEPING-CARS ON NIGHT TRAINS ! 
 
 Connecting at Leavenworth with MISSOURI VALLEY R. R., for 
 
 WEST OTT, ^TOHIISOTr, 
 
 AND 
 
 S T. JOSEPH . 
 
 *S-TIME AS aUlCK AND FARE AS LOW AS BY ANY OTHER ROUTE!*®* 
 DIRECT CONNECTIONS AT STATE LINE WITH 
 
 TJisrioisr pAlCifio ra.ilwa.y, 
 
 (The Great Smoky Hill Route,) 
 
 For Lawrence, Topeka, Fort Filey, 
 
 SALINA AND FORT ELLSWORTH. 
 
 The United States Express Company’s Stages leave the terminus of the Union 
 
 Pacific Railway, 
 
 DAILY FOR DENVER, SALT LAKE, 
 
 And. All Points in tlie Territories, 
 
 AND 
 
 TEI-WEEKLY FOR SANTA FE AND NEW MEXICO. 
 
 ST, LOUIS AND PACIFIC EXPRESS FREIGHT LINE 
 
 Via PACIFIC RAILROAD OF MISSOURI and UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY, to 
 
 Kansas City, Leavenworth, Lawrence, Fort Riley, 
 
 AND ALL POINTS ON ABOVE ROADS. 
 
 Through Bills of Lading signed in all Eastern Cities via this Line. 
 QENERAL OFFICE, S09 N. THIRD STREET, ST. LOUIS. 
 
 JAS. F. AGLAR, General Agent. 
 
 Ask for Tickets via St. Louis and Pacif ic Railroad. 
 
 C. N. PRATT, T. McKISSOCK, 
 
 Passenger Agent, Gen’l Superintendent. 
 
 94 
 
 W. O. LEWIS, 
 
 General Ticket Agent. 
 
GREAT CENTRAL ROUTE 
 
 BETWEEN THE 
 
 VIA 
 
 ST. LOUIS, ALTON AND TERRE HAUTE R. R. 
 
 THREE EXPRESS PASSENGER TRAINS DAILY, 
 
 Making immediate connections at INDIANAPOLIS with the 
 
 BELLEFONTAINE, COLUMBUS AND INDIANAPOLIS CENTRAL 
 
 AND 
 
 INDIANAPOLIS AND CINCINNATI RAILROADS, 
 
 FOR 
 
 A.I.L CITIES, 
 
 BEING FROM 
 
 Seven to Nine Hours in Advance of all Competing Lines. 
 
 MAGNIFICENT STATEROOM AND SECTION SLEEPING-CARS 
 
 ON ALL NIGHT TRAINS. 
 
 Fare always as Low as by any otlier Rovite. 
 
 The many advantages possessed by this Route in Speed, Certainty of Con- 
 nection, &c., are well known to the Travelling Public. 
 
 Tickets can be procured in all Ticket Offices in the South, East and West, and at 
 the Company’s 
 
 General Ticket Office, 105 North Fourth Street, St. Louis. 
 
 TO SECUJRE STEED, SAFETY AND COMFORT, 
 
 Be sure your Tickets read “Via Indianapolis.” 
 
 H. C. MOORE, General Superintendent. 
 
 EDWARD VERNON, General Ticket Agent. F. M. COLBURN, Ticket Agent. 
 
UNITED STATES EXPRESS CO 
 
 Express Forwarders to all Parts of the World, and Carriers 
 of the Great Overland Mail 
 
 Between the Atlantic and Pacific States, via 
 
 MISSOURI, PACIFIC, UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY AND SMOKY HILL. 
 
 THE COMPANY IS RUNNING A DAILY LINE OF COACHES 
 
 PEOM 
 
 WILSOi^’S STAATIOISr, 
 
 Five hundred and thirty miles west of St. Louis, 
 
 TO 00T,0E.^T)0, 
 
 MAKING CONNECTIONS WITH 
 
 WellSy Fargo Co, for Central Cityf Flack Maivk, 
 
 Virginia City and Selena, ISIontana; Foin City, 
 
 Idaho; Walla Walla, Washington Territory; 
 
 Portland, Oregon; Salt Lake City, Austin 
 and Virginia City, Nevada, to Saera- 
 
 7iiento, California, 
 
 Also, with the DENVER AND SANTA FE STAGE COMPANY for all the 
 principal points in NEW MEXICO. 
 
 Treasure and express carried on mail time to all of the above points. The Smoky 
 Hill route is now thoroughly protected by the Government ; is the most expeditious 
 and safest, being over the best natural roads in the world. The Stage equipments 
 are nearly all new — splendid six-horse Concord Coaches. The Eating Stations are 
 furnished by the Company, and everything will be done to promote the convenience 
 and comfort of the travelling public. 
 
 Through tickets and all information may be obtained at the 
 
 PACIFIC RAILROAD COMPANY’S THROUGH TICKET OFFICE, 
 
 No, 12 FOURTH STFEET, 
 
 At the principal Railway Ticket Offices East, and all the Offices of the United States 
 
 Express Company. 
 
 HENRY KIP, General Superintendent 
 
 83 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
 W. H. COTTRILL, Division Superintendent, 
 
 600 North Fourth Street, St. Louis. 
 
 96 
 
' — 
 
 T^IFIO 
 
 J9U 
 
 
 asi” 
 
 to 
 
 The Eeport of the Commissioners 
 Appointed to Examiiie 
 'the Eoad. 
 
 The Course of Proceedings of the 
 Commission. 
 
 ‘''’■fjo'aao m 
 ?5p,xtvo} sns j 
 
 loa ¥» S 
 •oSsO 
 
 kosoto 
 
 Quin^ 
 
 CeteniiiMalion of tlie Proper line for 
 Road— Description of tk Line of tlie 
 Centrai and Union Pacific 
 Railroads, 
 
 the 
 
 VuP' 
 
 1 
 
 l)e1 
 
 th€ 
 
 Coj 
 
 Tot 
 
 Tot 
 
 Tot^ 
 
 Lea 
 
 Ma:S 
 
 Tot^ 
 
 Tota 
 Tota 
 Tota 
 Leas 
 Maxi 
 Maxi 
 Tota] 
 Coil 
 tlie li 
 lor.gej 
 gieatt 
 feet; : 
 clegrei 
 954 fei 
 west -A 
 line of 
 Trail 
 tween ! 
 to travi 
 come al 
 arising 
 
 ami ilf: 
 
 require 
 Letwee: 
 practic; 
 little, it 
 unless 
 
 
 -fT 
 
 rBy Telegraph to The Press. ] 
 
 Washington, May 27, 1869. 
 
 The following is the report on the Pacific Kail- 
 road, the official promulgation of which is delayed 
 awaiting the statement of General G. M. Dodge» 
 chief engineer of the Union Pacific Sailroad, 
 showing the work done and amount of money ex- 
 pended since the commissioners made their exami- 
 nation, in supplying the reported deflcieneies, 
 which, it is understood, will he in equal propor- 
 tion, compared with the length of road, to the 
 amount expended hy the Central Pacific Railroad : 
 Washington, D. C. , May 14, 1869. 
 
 Hon. J. H. Chx, Secretary of the fnttrior: 
 
 Sis: The commission to e:^mm8 rhe L3.cifle 
 T? 5 ^iiroad aDDoiritcd. bv^ tli6 instructions of tliG 
 Sec?ott?yofth^^^^^ dated January 14, 1869 
 to which commission another 
 hy instructions dated Fehruary 15, 1869, submit 
 the following report, 
 
 ilrySSoS oFtSZ^Ilbf proceeaiBg ot 
 
 ^^lecoS^uSermination of a proper line for the 
 Pacific Railroad between the points which were 
 the ends of the tracks at the time of our exainma- 
 
 the linoot UMOeatn,: 
 Facif e Railroad of California and of its construc- 
 tion, and an estimate of the amount required to 
 make it a fully completed urst-class^^^^ 
 
 Fourth, The same with regard to the Union 
 
 ^¥he^vork^was’ begun in Washington on the 7th 
 of April, and assistants were employed as fast as 
 the work could he developed, so as to theii 
 
 services available. The haste with which the 
 Er aps had been prepared in each company s office 
 caused many errors in them, and thny were on 
 sevS difierent scales between ilm two ends of 
 thelirack where the lines had to be comparea^ 
 Some were on the scale of one inchJ;o 5, 000 f eet , 
 another one inch to 4, 000 feet ; another, one inch 
 to 2 000 feet The majority were on tne scale of 
 one’inchto 1,000 feet, to which the others haw 
 been reduced. The condition of the maps, there- 
 fore increased the time required to make tne re- 
 port We have combined three maps in one on a 
 Seof one inch to 1,000 feet, and have marked 
 the line which we found Referable by red ink. 
 The map is in five sheets. We also siiDmit a pro- 
 file of this line with our report, 
 determination of a proper line for 
 Railroad betioeen the points which were the ends 
 of the tracks at ihe time ot o ur examinqU on^ 
 Marehito Ma^^h^ ^ examination of the 
 Before entering imo Central 
 
 S‘‘Son fSc l^etweea^ the two 
 
 S^oVrSeTo Smit a few_iemK'^S 
 the general to"^ 
 
U.S.A. 
 
 iON RULE CO.