i SOME OBSERVATIONS Made ih TRAVELLING through FRANCE, ITALY, &c. I N T H E Years mdccxx, mdccxxi, and mdccxxii. By EDWARD WRIGHT, Efqj IN TWO VOLUMES. THE SECOND EDITION, LONDON, Printed for A. MILLAR, in the Strand.' MDCCLXIV. To the Right Honourable E O R G E Lord PARKER, Vifcount of E W E L M E, &c. My Lord, THO' I am fenflble this performance is little worthy of your Lordfhip's notice, and lefs of your patronage, yet the inducements for offering it to You in this publick manner, are too ftrong for me to refift, and will, I hope, fufficiently plead my excufe for doing it. The following account owes its origin to the ho- nour I had of attending You thro' the feveral places which furnifhed the obfervations prefented in it ; which gives You an undoubted right to it on that fcore. Eut You have a yet better title to it from the many obfervations, and fome of them the mod: considerable in it, which are Your's, (if I have not made them too much .mine, by a difadvantageous reprefentation ;) an acknowledgment which, in fome of the letters I had A 2 the iu The D E D I C A T X O N. the honour to write to my Lord your Father from; abroad, containing feveral of the following particu- lars, I thought myfelf obliged to make to Him,, and muft here do it to the Puhlick. At the fame time it will be a proof of my not be- ing confcious of any mifreprefentations, that I ven- ture thus to lay thefe things before You, who were Yourfelf an eye-witnefs of more, of them : and vera- city, My Lord, in a traveller, will make amends foE a great many other failings. May. the fame good-nature,, and fweetnefs of temper,, which fo greatly raifed the delight and pleafure of our journey, appear at this time, in your candid accept- ance of this imperfect defcription of it ; which, tho' it had. belonged to Your Lordfhip on no other account^ would be moft certainly Yours on this ; that it is the only return I can make for Your many Favours, andi the only teftimony I. can give of the fjneere refpe&i, wherewith I am, My Lord* Your Lordfhip's moft. obliged,, and. moft obedient humble fervant, ED, WRIGHT, THE PREFACE HEN firft I took the memorandums from whence the following obfervations were compiled; and for fome years, after I had digefted them into the method in which they now ap- pear, I had no intention of troubling the publick with them ; having had as little thought of being an author, as any man (I believe) that ever became one. I had a great patron and good friend, to whom I thought myfelf obliged to fay fomething more of the places I had vifited abroad, than barely that I had been there ; and for his entertainment it was, (if indeed any entertainment might arife from fuch a performance to fuch a tafte) that I firfl put my fcattered obfervations thus together. Now that, for reafons I need not trouble- the reader with, they lie at the mercy of the publick, they muft e'en take their fate, as others have done be- fore them. There may doubtlefs be many improprieties of ex- preffion in an account of fo many different mbjects, and fuch a variety of particulars ; there may likewife be fome errors ; but none (I am fure) that are volun- tary,, ** The T R £ F A C E. itary, nor any thing (that I am confcious of) taken llightly upon trull : fome things I was ohliged to re- ceive from the information of others ; tho' I never con- tented myfelf with that, where the fubject fell within the compafs of my own obfervation ; I was cautious in receiving the former, and as exact as I could in making the latter. When I differ, in any material circumftance, from fhofe who have gone before me, I generally give my reafons for it, where there is room for reafoning upon ■i'uch difference : In matters of mere fact, fo or not i'o, -where there is nothing more for it than one affir- mation to fland againft another, the reader is pofTeffed of a right to believe which he pleafes, till future con- current teflimonies may put the matter beyond difpute, in favour of the one or the other. Many things which occurred to my obfervation, and were fct down in my papers, upon fearch, I found -defcribed in other accounts, and have therefore ftruck ■them out of mine .- indeed fome of my friends, who had ken them as they then flood, have thought that I was too fcrupulous in that particular ; and at their inllance I have fuffered fome paffages of that kind (which were not thrown away, and quite deflroyed) to fland; which elfe had gone with the others. If I have enlarged more upon the articles of paint- ing and fculpture, than may poflibly be agreeable to the -tafte of every reader, thole parts (which were indeed at firll inferred at the command of friends who have great power over me, and afterwards by them appointed to ilajid as part of the work) are eafijy paired over, by fuch The- PREFACE. fuch as are indifferent to thofe fubjects. And there arc a considerable number of paintings, that I had taken notice of and fet down, which I have ftill omitted, for fear of being tedious on that head : tho' perhaps the general, and I had almoft faid, the fafhionable tafte for thofe things, which now prevails, and fecms too in a way of prevailing ftill more, rather than of declining among, us, might well enough have juftified my inferring more than I have done. We may well look upon this tafte as prevailing, when we fee fuch. additions yearly made to the fine collections of the nobility, and the principal gentlemen of England, in the way of painting and fculpture : and of this the Italian virtuofi, who make a traffic of fuch things, are very fenfible, as they con- ftantly find the fweets of it with regard to themielves ; and the Romans in particular, who have fuch a notion of the Englifh ardour, in the acquifition of curiofities of every fort, that they have this expreflion frequent among them, " Were our amphitheatre portable, the " Englifh would carry it off." The defigns for the prints here given, were taken by myfelf immediately from the things reprefented, all except, two or three. Tranfient opportunity, (fuch as a traveller is often forced to be content with), incommodi- ous fituation, and fometimes very cold, weather, were un- avoidable difadvantages, joined to a fmall fhare of Still : if, upon thefe accounts,, they have lefs delicacy than I could with, I hope the affurance I can give my reader, of fidelity in the delivery of them, will make fome amends : and that affurance I could not have given, Mad I taken them upon truft from, others ; as fome have dene,. VI* wiia The PREFACE. .done, and that too perhaps at fecond or third hand. With regard to the engraving them, befides the choice of a very good hand, care has been likewife taken, as to a particular circumftance in the execution ; that is, to have all the defigns reverfed upon the plates, which brings them off right in the prints ; fo that wha: fla- mes and baflb-relievoes are here prefented (as well as the views, &c.) are feen as the things do themfelves appear, which has not been obferved by Perrier, Sandrart, Bifchop, or the engavers of Roffi's edition of flames ; in which fome are right, and fome reverfed ; which leaves you at an uncertainty, a greater inconveniency than if all were reverfed. I had, for the illuftration of what I fay concerning Cafiini's Meridian Line at Bologna, made a little (ketch of that part of the floor of the church, where the line lies, with only marks for the places of the pillars be- tween which it paffes •, but afterwards finding in Caffmi's book (in the poffeffion of a friend of mine, tho' very rare in England) a print, reprefenting a feftion of the church itielf, with the rays defcribed as paffing thro' the hole in the roof, as well as falling upon the line which is on the floor ; I took fo much of that print as ferved my purpofe ; which I thought might be more fa- ns factory to the reader, than the plain fketch above- mentioned, which I had made, of the floor only. If, in fome parts of the following account, the reader fliould obferve a difference of time ; fome things being : en notice of as prefent, or frefb, which now are not :.o ; and other things here and there interfperfed, Which, fhew a later date ; he will pleafe to confider it £ as The P R E F A C E. as owing to the diftance of time, between the writing and the publication : I have in many, I believe in moil places, altered the expreffion from what it was at firft, or by a note reconciled it to the prefent time ; fome few may poflibly have efcaped me. To the time of my drawing up this account, is like- wife to be attributed the putting into it fome things, which I mould hardly have put in now, as being what are become much more familiar to the Englifli at this time than they were then : as the Italian comedy ; the Venetian mafking, the Ridotto, and other enter- tainments of the Venetian carnaval ; however, as this book may fall into the hands of feveral, who have not been in the way of thofe kinds of entertainment here, any more than abroad, what I have faid concerning them is fuffered to ftand. I have here and there interfperfed fome little {lories, as they came in my way, relating to celebrated pieces of painting, and other arts ; which, befides the entertain- ment they may poflibly give, by a little variation of the fubjeeT:, may alfo enable the reader to enter a little further into the performance, and into the temper and humour of the mailer too, than a bare defcription alone could have done. Some, of another kind, I could not forbear inferring, only as a tafte, or fpecimen, of multi- tudes of others of the like nature, current among them, which may ferve to {hew the ftrange fuperftitious ab- furdities, which are fwallowed in grofs by the common people, and feem to be even a part of their religion : they are laughed at indeed by the men of fenfe, even there ; but as they have their effect upon the weaker a minds, IX The P R E F A C E. minds, in fubjugating them ftill more to the power of the priefts ; the gentlemen are not only fuffered, but encouraged to carry on the pious fraud, and catch the people with whatever bait will ferve beft to take them. The index I have diftributed into three parts ; one, of the general mifcellaneous fubjecls ; another, of matters and their works, containing a lift of the paintings and modern fculptures ; a third, of the antiques : thereby endeavouring to make it as ferviceable as I could to every reader ; that each may the more readily find what he feeks for, without being embarafled with what is not to his purpofe. In the general index under the title of each city, as Rome, (for example) Florence, Naples, and the reft, I have immediately fubjoined all the remarkable places, and things principally obfervable in fuch city, that they may lie all at once under view ; and have again put fuch things as are common to more cities than one (as amphitheatre, aqueduct, palace, pillar, &c.) in their alphabetical place. I have here and there made ufe of a few words, as occurring moft naturally upon the occafion, which are familiar to thofe who are converfant in the fubjecls I treat of, but may not be fo to other readers ; for which reafon I have for the moft part, immediately after fuch words, fet down the Englifli of them : fome, that I had either omitted to tranflate at all, or had not been careful to tranflate the firft time the word was ufed, I have ex- plained in a fliort vocabulary, which is placed immedi- ately after this preface, A SHORT A SHORT VOCABULARY; O R, EXPLANATION of a few Words made ufe of in the following Account. A \ Dmiranda. The initial word of the title of a book of prints? reprefenting fevcral noted pieces of fculp- ture, in baffo-relievo, at Rome. The title more at large is thus : Admiranda Romanarum Antiquitatum ac veteris Sculptures Vejiigia, Anaglyphico opere elabo- rata—a Petro Sancti Bartolo delineata, incifa — Notts Jo. Petri Bellorii illujlrata. Edit a a Joanne Jacobo de Rubeis. Rejiituit, auxit, Do- minicus de Rubeis mdcxciii. The book is commonly called by the fingle word Admiranda, which I have accordingly made ufe of. ! Relievo. Are pieces of fculpture, where the figures rife, in feveral degrees of projedion, from the flat of the ftone ; as the figures in the imprefiion of a feal do from the field, or flat part of the wax. Where they rife very high, 'tis called Alto-relievo j where they rife but little, 'tis called Baflb-relievo ; and the mean between them is Mezzo-relievo. a 2 Atti- Alto Baffo XU A VOCABULARY. Attitude. The adtion or pofture of a figure. Caldano. A vefTel of filver, or other metal, not unlike the cifterns ufed at fide-tables : wherein they burn char- coal in the middle of the rooms, inftead of having fires in chimneys. Cameo. Heads moil commonly, now and then whole figures, cut baflb-relievo way, in fome curious ftone, which is fometimes only of one colour ; but often the feveral ftrata or layers are of different colours j the ground or field of one colour, the face of an- other, the hair and beard, &c. of a third : fome- times feveral faces rife (as in the William and Mary coins) from the fame field, each of different com- plexions. Ghiaro Ofcuro. Sometimes underftood of light and fhadow In- a pidture -, as when we fay, Here is a good Chiaro Ofcuro, 'tis the fame as to fay, The lights and lha- dows are well difpofed in this piece. Sometimes it is applied to a pi&ure done only in two colours, to diffinguifh it from one painted in all its natural colours. Dijlemper. A term ufed with us for painting in water-colours, when 'tis not on velum, &c. nor in frefco [fee Frefco}, but upon canvas, &c. The French call it detrempe; the Italians, dijlemper a, or Jlempera ; alfo guazzo. Facade. Fede. The front of a building. Properly, faith. It is alfo the word ufed for a bill of health ; i. e. a teftimonial, required to be pro- duced at the gates of cities, &c. in times of infec- tion, in order to your admittance into them. Frefco. A VOCABULARY. Frefco. Frefli. It is ufed to defcribe painting in water- colours upon frefli plafter, i. e. before the plafter is quite dry. It is alfo ufed to exprefs the frefli air, in the cool of the evening, &c. Applied alfo to cooling liquors, as lemonade, &c. Giejfo. A fort of plafter, much the fame as what we call Plafter of Paris, wherewith they call figures, &c. xai Guazzo. See Dijlemper. Intaglio-. A head, or whole figure, &c. cut hollow, in any fine ftone, in the nature of a feal. Madonna & Bambino. The Bleffed Virgin and the Child. Noli me t anger e. The ufual term in Italy for the reprefenta- tion in painting of our Saviour appearing after his refurredtion to Mary Magdalen ; when he faid to her, " Touch me not." Pieta. The primary acceptation of the word is pity : It is fometimes ufed to fignify an hofpital, wherein are received foundlings, or other infants. It is alfo a term ufed for the reprefentation in painting of a dead Chrift, with the Maries, &c. weeping over him. Portico. Properly a porch ; fometimes applied to a building more extended, by way of gallery, or cloifter. Relievo. See Alto, &c. Ritratto. The fame as portrait ; a picture, or fculpture, done by the life. Sarcophagus. Acheft,or coffin, of marble; generally adorned with baffo-relievoes ; wherein they did antiently put dead bodies, when they did not burn them. It is derived 3 from XVI A VOCABULARY. from two Greek words, which fignify eating [or con- fuming of] flefli. Terra Cotta. Earth [or clay] burnt. Models for new works in marble, and copies after the antique, are generally made in clay j which is wrought while it is foft, and afterwards burnt in a furnace, to harden it. Tribuna. A term ufed for a building, whofe area or plan is femicircular, as the fedtion oi i cupola, &c. Some- times it is applied to a building quite round, orfuch as confifts of many fides and angles (and by that means inclining to a roundj, as the famous room within the great duke's gallery at Florence, which is mofi generally known by the name of Tribuna, SOME ♦K * * (Dc* * * met, XSs i^c^ * * P<5. * * | £% || *H* H ewV? SI r*i M r*i # # * * * * » a< l******^***®**^*^****!**^*******^********* SOME OBSERVATIONS Made in Travelling through FRANCE, ITALY, &c. AFTER waiting at Dover four days for a wind, we at laft found a favourable one, that brought us in five hours from thence to Calais, March A, ljU. As I did but juft pafs thro' France, in my jour- ney, fo I had not opportunity to make any confiderable ob- fervations on that country. I fhall offer fuch occafional ones as occurr'd in my way. The ordinary women at Calais made a very odd appear- ance, with a fort of defence from cold they had about their necks : 'twas of fome fhaggy materials, feem'd a foot diameter in the thickeft part, and look'd like a Iheep laid acrofs a but- cher's fhoulders. Afterwards at Abbeville, L found the fame ornament wore in another manner, the thickeft part on the top B of ABBEVILLE. of their head, the reft coming down over their ears, like fome monftrous ill-fhap'd peruque : a mantle hangs from it behind : a great muff (which is worn univerfally, even by the meaneft of the people) fecures their hands, and wooden fhoes their feet. By all this armour againft cold, I could almoft have fancied my felf in Iceland, rather than in France: but they have reafon for what they do : for, however hot their fummers may be, their winters are certainly not lefs cold ; their winds thin and piercing, againft which cloaths are hardly a defence. All along from Calais there appear'd a general air of poverty, till we came to the place laft fpoke of [Abbeville] j where the meaner people are kept from idlenefs and want, by means of a great woollen manufacture, which employs and Jupports a vaft number of them. The broad cloth they make, is remitted from thence to Rome, and other parts of Italy, and even to England, as they told us : they work chiefly Spanifh wool. The work is all conducled by Mr. Vanrobais and his nephew. His houfe is very magnificent. The parterres before it, adorn'd with ftatues, &c. and little cannons on a terrace juft before the houfe. The wings behind the houfe ('which feem'd about fifty yards long) are employ 'din the manu- facture. There are galleries in feveral ftories : in one are men {hearing off the nap, in another women and girls pickino- off the knots, &c. with nippers : in others the looms, a hundred and one in thofe wings, befides what are in the town : there were forty two in one gallery : in another the carders, men on one fide of the gallery, women on the other; in an- other the finifhers, laying the nap with brufhes; the fcowrers below. Where the looms are, the gallery is divided by a row of pillars, and in each of the intervals between the pillars are plac'd two wheels and two reels, for ordering the wool and yarn. The fpinning is all done within the compafs of the town. He employs in his houfe, and in the town, fix thou- fand five hundred people. Other out-wings there are, employ- ed in dying, and other parts of the work. Frames regularly rang'd along the fides, which look like thofe for efpaliers, are for drying the cloth : all plac'd fo well and regular, that no- thing of that great bufinefs is offenfive, but the ftrufture of all the offices tends to ornament. The fituation is very advanta- B E A U V A I S. advantageous, juft by the river-iide, [the Somme*] where veffels come up to the very gates. I obferv'd nothing confide- rable in the town itfelf. The mod agreeable part of it is a fquare, [La Place] where there is aview of four or five churches all lying near together. The fortifications about the town feem to have been good, and are ftill in a tolerable condition. We pafs'd over five draw-bridges before we enter'd the town. At Montreuil, (before we came to Abbeville) I obferved houfes and churches built all of chalk. In the villages, as we went along, we frequently faw a con- fiderable length of poor houfes without ever a window ; and the people fare very hard; yet are gay and fprightly. In one of the inns we were ferv'd by a poor fellow, who frisk'd about with all the vivacity imaginable : he told us he had Httit en- fant, & point d Argent, eight children, and no money : I ask'd him, what he meant to do with them all ? Oh, Tons pour le Roi: all for the king. For, notwithstanding the great tyranny they labour under, the glory of their Grand Monarque is their perpetual theme. At Beauvais, I faw two fine churches; they are of what we call Gothic architecture, but beautiful in their way, and very well adorn'd. One dedicated to St. Stephen [Auguflines] the other to St. Peter \Chanoins Seculairs}. In the former are colour'd glafs windows very well worth feeing. Sculptures and bas-reliefs good, (at leaft what I then thought fo) both within the church and without, and a fine fleeple , the fcul- ptures better than the paintings. Great piles of fkulls and bones furrounded the church, clofe up along its walls, with monitory infcriptions. The choir of St. Peter's is remark- ably fine; faid to be the beft in France. This church, and (I think) the other were built by the Englifh, when mailers of * Oar chronicles record, among other aftions of our valiant king Edward the third, his leading his forces himfelf thro'afordable part of this river, againft Godmor du Foy, a general of the French king, who was polled on the other fide with iooo horfe and 6000 foot to hinder his paffage : " But Edward (whom as obftacles made impetuous, " fo nothing could difmay) enters himfelf into the ford, crying, He that loves me, let " him follow me ; as one that was refolved either to pafs or die." The paffage won, he defeated du Foy, and kill'd zooo of his men. This was by. way of prelude to the great battle of Creifie. B 2 France ; PARIS. France; as was likewife the N6tre Dame in Pan's, and fevera* other churches. Here are feme good fculptures, and better paintings than in the other. Some of them fet in frames of marble. All the entrance into the choir is adorn'd with marble; with angels fupporting tables, &c. on each fide. About Beauvais were the firft vineyards I faw. The abbey of St. Dennis, within two leagues of Paris is not only very fine it felf, but has a treafure immenfely rich' This is the burial-place of the French kings, whofe tombs they fhew. That of the late king [Louis XIV.] is cover'd with a pall a lamp continually burning by it, and is fo to continue, till the prefent king be dead too. For about ten leagues before we arriv'd at Paris, the roads were very pleafant, with rows of trees planted on each fide the way. PARIS. THE fliort time I ftaid at Paris allow'd me opportunity of making but very few of the remarks which might have been made in fo great and fine a city, and the royal palaces adja- cent. And my expectation of returning that way, made me lefs folhcitous about it, than otherwife I fhould have been: but that expectation was fruftrated by the plague breaking out in Trance while we were in Italy. The Porte St. Denis, a great gate at the entrance into l^aris, with infcnptions, Ludovico Magno, &c. and bas- reliefs defcribing his victories, give a grand idea of that city The ftreets are narrow, and the houfes high, each perhaps con- tributing to make the other appear more fo. There are fome publick fquares, which they call Places, [in Italy, Piazze] which are well built, as the Place Roiale, des Viaoires de Vendorne, &c. In each of thefe are large ftatues, fome of their kings ; that in the Place des Vicloires of Louis XIV. is gilt, with four flaves in copper, one at each corner of the pedefial' which I thought much better than the principal figure: that feem d too much embarrafs'd with fluttering drapery, and a vi- ctory that perfectly overwhelms the monarch. That in the Place Roiale is equeftral, of Louis XIII. There is another large PARIS. large one equeftral, of Henry IV. on the Pont Neuf. The fountain of the Samaritan on that bridge, (fo called from the figures of our Saviour and the Samaritan woman, which adorn it) is much cried up, and is indeed pretty enough ; as are its chimes, mov'd by the water, which go every three hours. But the fineft fountain, and the fineft thing in its kind of any in Paris is the Fontaine des Nymphes, in the Rue St. Denis, a very good piece of architecture, and adorn'd with bas-reliefs of nymphs, &c. of a very good tafte. This fountain is not of lefs ufe, than ornament to the city, which feems to be but ill-water'd; for, hither the people come with their veffels for water, and cry it about the ftreets, as they did here in London in the time of the great froft, and with a difmal tone they utter it. The river Seine, which runs thro' the city, is very muddy, and good for few ufes ; and not made clearer by the numbers of wafher- women, who take their ftation in boats, a row of which is planted juft under one of the king's palaces. The river abounds much in carps, which the people carry about the ftreets, alive, in water. The only finifh'd royal palace I faw, and what feemed to me the beft built, was that of the Luxemburg : the Louvre and Thuilleries are neither of them finifh'd; the former indeed al- moft ruinated ; the front of it is very fine, but feen to difadvan- tage, by reafon of the narrownefs of the ftreet it ftands in. The gardens of the Thuilleries are by fome efteem'd the beft difpos'd of any in France, as gardens ; for, thofe of Verfailles they will have to be rather a country finely adorn'd. I faw them at the worft, it being then the beginning of March. They fliew'd me a fmall part enclos'd ; with a mall, &e. for the king to play in. I had the honour to fee his majefty twice ; and a very fine youth he was ; nor wanted any advantages (to be fure) to fet off his natural graces. The architecture of the Luxemburg is Tufcan; and the pil- lars are fo exceffively charged with the Ruftic, that they look'd like a heap of vaft Chefhire-cheefes, or rather mill-ftones fet one upon another. I there faw the celebrated gallery of Rubens, fo well known by the prints : the paintings are fome of them much damag'd by wet ; but fuch as are preferv'd, fhew a great beauty of colouring, by which that great mafter fodiftinguifhed him- PARIS. himfelf ; not that they were all wholly performed by his own hand ; Vandyke, and others, his principal difciples, having confiderably affifted : and well might one fuppofe fome affi- ftance, when, the whole was performed in two years time ; as monfieur Audran, an excellent engraver, and a very obliging perfon, who fhew'd me the palace, told me : fome of the plates were engraved by him. There is a fine picture of Guido in the fame palace, reprefenting David and Goliah. In the palace of the Thuilleries, I faw the famous pi&ure of Le Brun, Darius's tent, of which we have fo many reprefen- tations in England : there is a fine expreffion in the counte- nances ; the draperies and ornaments are beautiful ; the colour- ing is warm and harmonious, but fomewhat heavy, wanting the tranfparency we fee in the Italian paintings : 'tis no great advantage to it, particularly in that refpecl, to have a fine pic- ture of Paolo Veronefe juft oppofrte to it : 'tis a laft fupper. The Battles of Alexander I did not fee. In the Palais Roial, where the late duke regent then lived, I faw the Seven Sacraments of Nicola Pouffin, and other works of that mafter : there is another fett of them at Rome, of a different defign, in the palace of Cavalier Pozzo. A monftrous ftone-figure of St. Chriftopher in the church of Notre Dame, rather amazes than pleafes; 'tis about ten yards in height. The advocates in Paris have their trains born up : I faw feveral of them going along : and I was told that their wives have the fame privilege. If the lawyers there have fuch a mark of efteem, it feems to be quite otherwife with the phyfi- cians, who (generally fpeaking) are not efteemed company for gentlemen : however the particular merit of fome may raife them above their brethren, this I was informed to be the cafe of the generality of the faculty. They are much upon the fame footing in Italy, if not worfe. There were two remarkable executions in Paris, while I was there; one was of two villains burnt alive, for their vile ufage of a poor prieft, of which he died. They flea'd the top of his head, where 'twas fhav'd for his orders, alfo the ends of his thumb and two fingers, which were confecrated for touching the holt ; burnt the bottoms of his feet, made him blafpheme 5 God, PARIS. AUXERRE. God, and further treated him in a moft barbarous manner. They had pitch'd fhirts put on them, and were then tied down to faggots, which were fet on fire. The prieft had been found ftrollingin the ftreets at an unfeafonable hour, and put into a round-houfe ; or fome fuch place, in the fame room with thefe villains, who, having got a prieft to 'em, thought fit to divert themfelves with him in the inhuman way above-men- tion'd. The other execution was of count Horn and his accomplice, a marquis, broke upon the wheel, for robbing a ftock-jobber in the Quinquempoix (their exchange-alley, and murdering him. The former is faid to have been related to fome of the chief fovereigns in Europe ; and when 'twas urg'd by fome, who follicited the regent for his pardon, or at leaft a change of the fentence, that it wou'd not look well that a perfon fo highly allied, fhou'd fufFer fo ignominious a death ; he anfwer'd, That the fhame and the difgrace lay in the crime, not in the punifhment, and that the former cou'd only be purged by the latter: fo order'd immediate execution. From Paris I went up the Seine in the Coche d'Eau to Auxerre, in the dukedom of Burgundy. When we arriv'd within two leagues of that place, we landed to take a view of the bifhop of Auxerre's country-feat, and were tempted, by the pleafing appearance of the vineyards, to take a walk through them to the city, and left the Coche d'Eau to follow with our baggage. The city has but a poor appearance ; there are fome good churches, but the houfes are mean ; the wine there is excellent, and the ftreets abominably pav'd : a warning not to be too free with the former. From hence I went by land to Chalons : but made no ftay in any place. Not far from Chanfan, a fmall town, we pafs'd thro' a moft pleafant vale, where dreams ran ifluing from feveral fources in the fide of a mountain, and lower down formed a fmall river by the village of Ponce. Here we heard wolves howling in the woods, which in hard win- ters fally out ; not much to the pleafure of the traveller. Further on, we pafs'd along a perfect labyrinth of winding vales, which brought us to a little town, which itfelf iscall'd the DIJON. CHALONS. LIONS. the Vale de Soijfons, a pleafant brook running all alongthrough the town. This is feven miles fhort of Dijon, a parlia- ment city, under whofe walls we pafs'd, but had not time to fee it. On this road we faw a wedding cavalcade ; Mrs. Bride, drefs'd all in white, riding aftride among about thirty horfe- men ; and herfelf the only female in the company. At Chaigny, a fmall town further on, I faw an inftance of that well-plac'd charity, the redemption of flaves from Algiers, &c. there were forty-eight in the company : the fa- thers of Redemption were along with them. They told me there was not one Frenchman [that was a Roman catholick] left behind ; but great numbers of Chriftians of other nations, and among them abundance of Engliih. But his Britifh ma- jelly has fhewn, that 'tis not peculiar to the French, or Roman catholicks, to commiferate the fufferings of captives, and re- deem them from their flavery. From Chalons, (which is a fmall city of Burgundy) to Lions, I went down the Saon ; it happen'd to be much overflown after fo me violent rains j and our veffel having mifs'd the courfe of the river, we found our felves fairly fet down in the middle of a meadow : but our pilot foon retriev'd his er- ror, and brought us into the current again. As we came near Lions, we had a view of feveral plea- fant country-feats, and vineyards along the banks. But as to the former, France feems to be no-way fo full of them as England ; I fcarce faw any in my land-pafiage : the few that are, lie generally near the great cities, where the quality re- fide ; a fhort and eafy retreat for them. LIONS. LIONS is a large and fine city ; the river running thro* the middle of it, as the Seine does through Paris. Here the Rhone falls into the Saon, and by this conjunction, as by a fort of marriage, the latter lofes its name ; and the former gives name to the whole, till it difcharges itfelf into the Me- diterranean. There LIONS. There are in this city feveral good churches : thofe of the Jefuits and Dominicans are richly adorn'd with marbk- j and that of the Francifcans is well ftor'd with pictures. But nei- ther the ftrudture nor ornaments of thefe churches, nor of any that I faw in France, are to be compared with thofe in Italy. The chief church in Lions, is that of St. John : the canons of this church are counts. Here I faw the famous clock fo much talk'd of: I came at the bed: time for feeing it, which is twelve a-clock ; at which time the figures move. An an- gel opens a little door, and difcovers the Bleffed Virgin ; a figure of GOD the Father defcends to her, and immediately a brazen cock crows a-top. There are a great many other movements, reprefenting the celeftial motions, &c. which I had not time to obferve. I cannot fay that what I cou'd fee of it anfwer'd my expectations, confidering the great talk they make of it; but, 'tis an old piece of work, and made at a time when fine works of that kind were not fo frequent as they are now; however, they ftill endeavour to continue the efteem it might once have juftly had. There are fome very handfome houfes of the nobility, &c. but thofe of the citizens have a difagreeable look, by reafon there is no glafs in the windows, but inftead thereof only oil'd paper, which is often tatter'd and torn. The like is alio frequent in Italy. Generally at the corners of ftreets, and in other publick places, there are ftatues of the Bleffed Virgin, and our Saviour, and fome of them I obferv'd not ill ones. At the entrance into the archbifhop's palace, the Hotel of the Intendant, and of all the chief magistrates, there is placed a tall and very ftrait fir [not growing], like the maft of a fhip ; but a fmall brum of the branches is left a-top. About the middle of the body are hung the arms of the perfon : 'tis to diftinguifh thofe from the common houfes. The height and flraitnefs of the tree, is perhaps intended to point out the eminence and uprightnefs of the perfon. If the city of Lions had not a Sanazarius to celebrate her praifes, flie feems to have had as good a friend, tho' a worfe poet; as will appear by the following epigram writ in letters of gold, over the great gate of the Hotel de Ville, which is C a IO * Rhone. f Saon. LIONS. a noble ftrucliure. I have fince been told it was written by one of the Scaliarers. Flumineis * Rhodanus quafefugat incitus undis,, Quaq •, pigro dubit at JJumine mitis -f* Arar. Lugdunum jacet, antiquo novus or bis in or be, Lugdunumq ; vetus orbis in orbe novo. Quod nolis, alibi quceras, liic queer e quod opfes, Aut liic, aut ?iufquam, vincere vota potes. Lugduni, quodemiq ; potejl dare mundus, liabebis* Plura petar, hcec urbs & tibi -plura dabit. Which may be thus tranflated : Where Rhone impetuous rolls, and where the flow And gentle Saon with milder ftream does flow, There Lions ftands; where we united find What fcatter'd thro' the world delights the mind ; And if you ftill feek more with greedy eye, Lions can ev'n more wonders ftill fupply. The city of Lions has two pieces of antiquity which are much valu'd : the firft is the fpeech of Claudius in the fe- nate, in favour of the people of Lions, that they fhould be made a Roman colony, and come into the fenate ; 'tis en- grav'd on a brafs plate, and preferv'd in the Hotel de Ville [or town-houfe] juft mention'd. Claudius was a native of Lions, which had thence the name of Copia ; being call'd Colonia Claudia Copia Augufia Lugdunenjis. Copia, as the place of his nativity, and as it were his nurfe ; in allufion to the horn of the goat [or of AcKelous, according to fome] that nourifti'd Jupiter ; Cornucopia. The fpeech is printed by Mr. Spon, and others. The other is an ancient altar, erecTed onoccafion of aTau- ribolium. The Tauriboles were a facrifice begun late in the pagan fuperftition, and thence continued to the Iaft of it: they were made to Cybele Magna Mater ; and were inftituted as a fort of baptifm of blood, in oppofition (as is fuppos'd) to the baptifm of the chriftians. The firft account of them is given by Julius Firmicus Ma- ternus, in his book de erroribus prophanaram religionum, and LIONS. and afterwards by Dalenius : alfo very particularly, as to the circumftances of the ceremony, by Prudentius, in Martyre Roamano. The manner of the Tauribole, as given by Prudentius, was thus : they made a fort of a pit, into which the prieft de- fended, adorn'd with a crown of gold, and a iilk veft- ment ; over the pit were plac'd boards, not join'd clofe, and with holes likewife bor'd through them. Then they brought a great bull, adorn'd with flowers, and feftoons a- bout his horns, and his forehead gilt : then they cut his throat, [peSlus facrato dividunt venabulo] and the hot blood ran down thro' the pierc'd boards, and rain'd a fhower upon the prieft, who flood under, and receiv'd the blood on his head, and all over him. Not content with this, he turns up his face to receive it on his cheeks, nofe, lips, his very eyes, and into his ears. He opens his mouth, and moiftens his tongue with it, till well wafh'd infide and outfide, he is become all over blood. The other priefts take the now bloodlefs vi&im off the boards ; then out comes the high-prieft, (for fuch he is now becomel like a drown'd rat, with his clothes and perfon all drunk with blood. The people at a diftance falute and adore the horrid fpectacle, not daring to approach him, whom they look upon now as wafh'd and fanclified. Befides the Tauriboles, there were alfo Crioboles and iEgi- boles, of rams and goats. Thefe facrifices were perform'd by cities and provinces, Pro Salute Imperatoris, &c. and by private people, for their own profperity. That at Lions is, Pro Salute Imp. Caf. Titi JElii Ha- driani Ant. Aug. Pit, pat. patrice, liberorumq; ejus, & fla- tus colonice Lugdunenfis. The altar, or memorial-ftone of this Tauribolium was found at Lions, Anno 1705. In the middle of the infcription is a bull's head, adorn'd with a firing of pearl, or what makes fuch an appearance ; the ends hanging down behind the ears. On one fide of the ftone is a ram's head, adorn'd as the bull's ; and on the other, a fword . or knife, of a particular figure [the facratum \ie?iabulum\, with an infcription, Cujus MefonySliumfaSlum ejl 5 Idus De- C 2 cembr'is ; II 12 LIONS. V I E N N E. cembris; which fhews that the ceremony was perform'd at mid- night. By the ram's head it appears there was a Criobolium joiri'd with the Tauribclium, which was done fometimes. Vi- de apud Montfaucon the figure of all, with a full account of the whole. This city was once poffefs'd of another piece of antiquity of extraordinary value, if it were really the thing they affert it to be, a votive buckler in honour of Scipio's continence ; loft in the Rhone, at his return from Spain, and found in the year 1656. 'Tis now in the French king's cabinet. Near the entrance into the Hotel de Ville, is the Abbaie Roiale, all noble ladies ; the archbiChop of Lion's fifter, daugh- ter to the Marfhal de Villeroy, was the lady abbefs, when I was there. There is a handfome fquare in this city, call'd La Place de Louis le Grand, where there were fome fine new houfes then building, with large fculptures of trophies and other ornaments. In the middle is a large equeftral ftatue of Louis XIV. in copper, on a pedeftal of white marble. On one fide are walks, after the manner of the mall in St. James's park ; but not fo fine, nor fo well kept. The [then] new efpoufed princefs of Modena, daughter to the duke regent of France, came to Lions while I was there, in her way to Italy. I faw her highnefs at the play, at- tended by the archbifhop (who fat in the box, with her), to- gether with the Intendant, and two or three of the chief ladies of the city. Her perfon was graceful, and her face much finer, than to need that addition of art, without which the French ladies (efpecially thofe of the firft quality) don't look upon themfelves to be dreft. Leaving Lions, I pafs'd through Vienne, an archbi- fhoprick, and once a Roman colony, called by Claudius, in his fpeech for thofe of Lions, Ornatiffima colonia valen- tijjimaq; Viennenjium : but at prefent it makes but a poor fi- gure. Not far from hence is made the Cote rote wine. This name is not given it, as being taken from the roafted fide, in oppoli- tion to the other fide of the fame hill, as fome have formerly told T E I N. told me here in England ; nor, as others, that 'tis made of grapes pick'd from the mod funny-fide of the vine ; but 'tis thus : there are two hills lying one on each fide the road, which my fellow-travellers fhewed me, as we went along : one lies more advantageoufly to the fun, than the other ; and 'tis that which they call the Cote rote. Between S. Vallier and Tein they fhew'd me what they call the Chateau de Pilate, where they fay he died in banifh- ment ; but that account is look'd upon as fabulous. Near Tein is the famous hill, whence the Hermitage wine comes, fo call'd from a hermit's cell, which they ihew'd me on the top of it. The hill is but final], and much un- likely to afford fuch a quantity of wine as goes by that name. We met with but poor fluff at Tein, and there they told us that the bulk of the vintage was engrofs'd for the king's cel- lars, and thofe of the chief quality; unlefs, for the benefit of the clergy, fome were by-the-by nipt into a Jefuit's convent. Soon after we left Tein, we pafs'd over the river Lifeirre, and another after, called Drum ; the latter is efteem'd at fome times the worft for parTage in all France, but well enough when we pafs'd it. Here we had a fine and pleafant view of fome high mountains in Dauphine." At Bouleine, on a Meagre-day, we were ferv'd with a fri- caffee of frogs. This town is under the pope. A little before we came to Bouleine, we left Dauphine; and enter'd Provence. In the afternoon we pafs'd through the town and principality of Orange. Being confin'd to the Diligence, I here regretted the not obferving fome fine re- mains of antiquity, one of which I got a tranfient fight of, juft before we enter'd the town. I had fome comfort in the hopes of our returning that way ; but Orange was in no in- viting condition at our return. The Diligence, a great coach that holds eight perfons, is a machine that has not its name for nothing; what it wants in quicknefs, it makes up in afiiduity ; though by the help of eight *3 H AVIGNON. A1X. MARSEILLES. » eight mules which drew it, we fometimes went a brijfk pace too; having pafs'd from Lions to Marfeilles, which they call a hundred leagues, in three days and a half. The walls of Avignon [fubject to the pope], where we lay, are faid to be the fineft in Europe, whatever they are for ftrength ; but 'twas almoft night when we came there, and not day when we left the town; fb that much was not to be feen. There is on one fide a very fteep rock towards the Rhone. The day following we enter'd France again; for they do not call fuch parts France, as are not under the French king. A little before this, we pafs'd over the river Durance, near Bonpas, a ftream more rapid than the Rhone itfelf. We pafs'd by Aix, a parliament town, which they told me is a very beautiful one; but going only through the fuburbs, I could fee but little of it. The road from Lions to Marfeilles, efpecially the two firfl days, did abundantly make amends for the ill ones I met with elfevvhere. We drove over a perfect gravel walk, which in fome places, for miles together, was as ftraight as a line. In the vineyards on each fide, were ftandards of apricot and peach-trees, then in full bloiTom : groves fometimes of wal- nut, almond, mulberry, and olive-trees. The whole coun- try now appear'd in a pleafing bloom; and even the face of the feafon, all of a fudden chang'd from cold bleak winds (ftiarper than in England) and violent rains, through a perfect alteration of climate, to a delightful warmth. MARSEILLES. THE fituation of Marfeilles is mod agreeable. On one fide lies the Mediterranean ; on the other, 'tis en- compafs'd with pleafant hills, whofe jfkirts are befbrew'd, as it were, with pretty houfes, which they call Baflides ; they are little villa's [or country-feats] of the merchants, and o- thers in Marfeilles, whofe hot fituation, having a fouth fun reflected from the fea upon the city, on one fide, and frqm 5 ' a ■ MARSEILLES. a circular range of hills, on the other, itfelf as it were in the focus, will pretty well admit of a cool retreat in the fum- mer-time. Of thefe Baftides they reckon eight thoufand in about nine miles compafs. The town itfelf is very pleafant ; the chief ftreets exactly ftrait; and the houfes well built. The principal ftreet, which is call'd the Courfe (the rendezvous of company in fummer evenings) is adorn'd with a double row of trees, with feats under them, and fountains at convenient diftances. The Hotel de Vilk is a fine building, and the front adorn'd with good fculpture by Monfieur Puget, a very celebrated artift. The great room above is hung round the upper part with the pictures of their confuls. On one fide, is a large hi- ftory-piece of the young king [Louis XV.] brought by Nep- tune on a large fhell drawn by fea-horfes, accompanied by -Tritons, &c. and conducted by Mercury to Marfeilles ; where, on the lhore, are the magiftrates of the city ready to receive him : a little angel, or Genius, puts a crown on the king's head. At the upper end of the room, is the late King [Louis XIV.] received by the city of Marfeilles, reprefented by & woman in white and blue drapery, on her knees, prefenting the arms of the city, which are of the fame colours [field ar- gent, a crofs formee azure*.] Under it is writ, as follows :. IMMORTALI GLORLE LUDOVICI MAGNI REGIS CHRISTIANISSIMI POPULI SUI ET TOTIUS ORBIS DELICIARUM SEMPER AUGUSTI ATQ; UBIQj VICTOR1S OMNIUM MASSILIENSIUM NOMINE jETERNI OBSEQUII MONUMENTUM HOC DICARUNT MATT: FABRE &c CONSULES ET ANGELUS TIMON ASSESSOR. IN AMORIS, FIDEI, ET VENERATIONIS ARGUMENTUM. ANNO SALUTIS. M.DC.XCVI. * This I took for granted to be the arms of Marfeilles, being prefented by a figure which reprefents that city; and do (till believe them to be fo, at this day ; tho* Mr. Dacier, in his Annot. to Horace, Epift. 15. fays, the ancient arms of Marfeilles, as thofe of Veha, which cities were both built by the Phocians in the time of Servius Tulhus, [Juftm fays, Tarquin] were a lion : for that a lion was the arms of the Pho- cians. But the arms of Marfeilles, fince the times of chriftianity, might very likely be chang'd from a lion to a crofs. This *5 i6 MARSEILLES. This is a moft profound compliment made by the people of Marfeilles, with the ftrongeft profeffions of " love, fealty, and " veneration, to Lewis the Great, the delight of his own peo- " pie, and of the whole world, always auguft, and every where " conqueror." Blenheim field yet untried, elfe fure the poet had been more modeft. The harbour is efteem'd a very fafe and commodious one, tho' not very large ; and here are kept the king's gallies ; which Louis XIV. in the late king's* time were forty at leaft in number; fincethen very much reduc'd, now to only twenty. The gallies are filled with flaves, about 270 in each. In the day-time fome of thefe are let out chain'd, two, or fometimes three together, to fetch in frefh water and other things for the ufe of the reft. Such as have been brought up to manufactures, are chain'd in little huts, three or four toge- ther in a hut, all along the fide of the port, where they work at their feveral trades. Moft of them are notorious offenders, of their own nation, whom they ufe the moft feverely. The Turks, and others taken in war, are treated much more gently; having only a fmall fetter about one ancle : firft, as being only prifonersof war ; and this to encourage thole of their nations to ufe the French flaves among them in like manner : and in the next place, for that thro' want of language, and the re- motenefs of their country, there is lefs danger of their efcape. Thefe go about felling coffee : and one, not long before I was there, who kept a fort of coffeehoufe, got enough to pay his ranfom. The others are moftly bare-foot and bare- legg'd, and have fcarce any clothes. To fee them (at fuch times as they are notletout) allcrowdedtogether,andchain'ddown in the gallies, and fo loaded with irons, with fuch mifery and an- guifh in their countenances, is a fhocking fight to an Englifh- man, and what would move the utmoftpity, even though you are told that fome of their crimes were fuch as deferv'd death. I afk'd feveral of the French flaves, for what offence they were put aboard thole gallies ; the general anfwer was, Defer- tion. Which put me in mind of an old ftory of the duke of Offuna, who going to releafe fome galley-flaves at Barcelona, afk'd feveral of them, what their offences were. • Every one excus'd himfelf; one was put in out of malice, another by bri- bery MARSEILLES. bery of the judge ; but all unjuftly, except one little flurdy black man, who fairly own'd his offence, that he wanted money, and had taken a purfe to keep him from ftarving. The duke, with alittlj ftaffhe had in his hand, gave him two or three blows on the moulders, faying, " you rogue, what do " you among fo many honed innocent men ? get you gone out " of their company." So he was freed; and the reft remained to tug at the oar. I was on board the royal galley, which was finely adorn'd for the princefs of Modena, and which went, attended with others, to receive her highnefs at Antibes. I was told by one of the flaves that they have not room to lie down a- riights, but red- as they can, fitting on their benches, where each is chain'd in his place, with their elbows (as he defcrib'd it to me} refting on their knees, and their hands fupporting their chin. But 'tis time to leave a fubjecl that affords fo little pleafure. The cathedral church is faid to have been a temple of Diana : I believe much unlike that of Ephefus, according to its prefent appearance. The church of St. Victor, they fay, was the firft chriftian church in France. On the outfide of an old little chapel, landing by itfelf in another part, I found this infcription. Ce lieu monflre on jadis Magdalem a jette les premiers fondemens de notre re- ligion, tirant les Marfellois de I'infidelite, leur prefcant de Jefus, fa croix & fa paffion. " This place mews where " Magdalen formerly laid the firft foundations of our reli- f gion, drawing the people of Marfeilles from their infidelity, " by preaching to them of Jefus, his crofs, and his pafiion." And when we left Marfeilles, and had coafted a little eait- ward, they fhew'd me from the flfip fome defert mountains, where they fay fhe fpent the remainder of her days in foh- tude and devotion. The inhabitants glory much in the antiquity of their city, and in the ftrenuous oppofition it made to Julius Cffifar before it was taken. It is certainly very ancient, and, according to Jufiin, of a Greek origin ; who lays, that fome Phocians, in the time of Tarquin, came from Afia, and made a league with the Romans : that they went on, a/id came in Sinum D Gal- 17 i8 St. R E M O. Gallicum, ofiio Rhodani amnis: that being taken with the pleafantnefs of the place, they built Maffilia there ; and that from thefe Phocians, the [then] barbarous Gauls learnt a more elegant manner of living, agriculture, and walling of their cities, the planting of olives, and ordering their vines. St. REM O. AFter having been detain'd at Marfeilles a fortnight by con- trary winds, a ftrong Levanter blowing all the time, I had the good fortune at laft to efcape (as I may truly call it) from thence, juft before the plague broke out there. I went on board a bark bound for Leghorn : we met with very bad weather ; after fix days labouring with wind and fea, and" hav- ing two or three times had fight of Corfica, where our captain would have landed, but could not for the violence of the wea- ther, and being driven upon the Genoefe coaft, we were glad at laft to get afhore at St. Remo ; and 'twas not without fome difficulty we did it, for the fea continued very high. Some Spanifh pilgrims that were on board with us, as foon as they got afhore, kifs'd the ground with tranfports of joy for their efcape from the ftorm which had been the night be- fore ; nor were any of us, I believe, difpleafed to find our felves upon terra Jirma; or with the fcent we found there upon our landing, of the orange and lemon trees, which when we came nearer, we faw loaded with fine fruit. 'Twas an exceffive boiftrous night of wind and rain ; and the rain continued all the next day ; however I made a fally out to fee a little of the town, which is fituated on the fide of a hill, pleafant to the view, but not very much fo to walk in, many of the ftreets be- ing very fteep. There are fome good houfes, and I faw one a very fine one, curiouily adorn 'd with marble. The afcent to the church of Madonna da Porta, is a pretty good breathing : that being the firft church I had then feen in Italy, I might poffibly think it finer at that time than I fhould now j but there is a great deal of marble in it, and well wrought} for the four twifted pillars at the great altar, they told me, there had been bid fifty thoufand crowns : but that bouncing way of fetting forth their things, I have not minded fo much fince, ha- ving been more us'd to it. The St. REM O. The well end of the church is adorn'd, as I have feeti vaft numbers fince (but take thisfirft opportunity of mentioning it) with little pictures (fadly done) ex voto for efcapes from ftorms, fhipwrecks, Sac. with pieces of cables, broken muf- quets, &c, hanging among them, as perhaps after a fea-fight, or engagement with pirates *. Thefe are moftly the fubject of thefe tabula votivcz here, the fituation of the place giving frequent occafion for them. The BlefTed Virgin with our Sa- viour is placed in the clouds ; in a corner of moft of them is written ex tefalus : how 'tis to be underftood, whether of Chrift or the Virgin, is not faid. But I found the matter pretty well explain'd elfewhere, in other infcriptionson pictures of the Bleffed Virgin, which I met with on the road j in one place, Sufficit aufpicio, Virgo, fubire tuo. " 'Tis fufficient for me to " be placed under thy protection, O Holy Virgin." At Oneglia. Vergine Santa, cajia, purd, pia, Guardimi, chejia Jicura via. " O holy, chafte, pure, pious Vigin, take care of me, that " my voyage may be fafe to me." At Savona. Sub tuum prcejidiwn, SanSia Dei Genitrix. " Under thy fafeguard, O Holy Mother of God." At Genoa. Sub umbra alarum tuarum. " Under the (hadow of thy wings." And, In te, Domina, Jperavi. " In thee, O Lady, have I put my truft." Terms appropriated to the Almighty, butby thefepeople tranf- ferr'd to her. I noted down thefe few, which were then a v* * Horace alludes to a like cuftom prevailing in his time. • Me tabula facer Voti'Va. paries indicate uvida. Sufpendijfe potenti Vejihnenta maris Dei. Lib. I. Od* V. ■ ■ Me in my vow'd Piflure, the facred wall declares t'have hung My dank and dropping weeds, To the ftern god of fea. Milton. D 2 novelty, «< St. RE M O. novelty, and may ferve as a fpecimen of multitudes more to the fame purpofe, which I have feen fince*. _ From that eminence, where the church ftands, we had a view of the grounds about the fkirts of the town, where we faw corn, vines, and olives, growing all together, and fome- times almonds and figs among them, with palm-trees frequent in the town and about it ; from whence, as I was told, are gather'd the dates that I had feen at Marfeilles. Churches with thefe forts of titles, Madona da Porta, fa Guarda, &c. are pretty frequent upon the fea-coaft, especi- ally where there are ports. There are of the fame fort upon the coafts of France. At our arrival at St. Remo, we we were told that a Genoefe veffel we had feen at fome diftance the day before, was taken by the Turks ; we faw the Turki(h veffels alfo, two of them : but the French being at peace with the Turks, they did not attack us ; for 'twas a French veffel I had the good fortune to be aboard, or I might poffibh/ have paid a viiit to Alters, which had not been much with my inclination. Finding the wind (till contrary, and the captain giving no great encouragement of its changing, I got my things from on board, and hired a guide and a couple of mules, and on Sunday May i2, fetout from St. Remo for Genoa. 'Twas a journey of three days, ninety miles : as for the road, 'twas pretty much in extreams, either very good or very bad, bat much the mod: of the latter; generally along the brinks of vaft high mountains, the path very narrow and very rugged; the precipices fteep, in fome places almoft perpendicular; and for the depth ! tho' a fmall part of it would be enough to do a man's bufi- nefs effectually, mould he be fo unfortunate as to tumble « The Greeks are not a jot behind the Romanes in the particularity of their ad- dre/les to the B.'efted Virgin, as may be feen in feveral of their offices ; ImLyia. O s or»'« s ™<™ r,^. >> O Mother of God, holy above all, fave us." 'E»! „l L Tf J, ^&j «»£V©f»T»M- " In thee, O Mother of God, have I put all my truft " . Jj '"rffWCfa ™ ««>*' ™°f> iff ®^U i»X*yr,,,(, V \K^n K L f criu), iroyiruu,,, ^rttmju, ota an na wtfircunaf av yap ei i :„ l/: . . J CO J7' but Antiquaries, efpecially in fome parts ef Italy. eith either my Cicerone* was out in his account, or Marfe,lle mud la ve a firSu e ; rI s° F ded wi K h ^ bi0iop - There is - S^2 annepidtu.eof St. Francis by Guercin del Cento. The church ftands on the top of a hill : and I went up the cupola oft fiom whence I had a fine view of the city, f ea , and the ad' jacent mountains , the fevcral terraces on ^he ou.nl of he cupola, and other parts of the church, are all of marble out that is no rar.ty here , for, befides the fine white ma We of Carrara, which is not far off, the nearer mountains on each 64b Genoa afford great quantities of other forts In the town-houie one great hall is pained in frefco c cling and fides, by Francefchino of Bologna. There is ln other room (as my guide told me) paintfd by Solymini of Ov e eVth Ut ! re " at f WaS / ltting there ' and ' COuId ^t fee " Ron I n A ° r f - tbC arfenal I f3W the r ° ftrum of « old Roman flfo, t ,s of iron, with the reprefentation of a boa's head at the end, the neck of it is hollow j the fides of tha are eat through with ruft in fome places: 'twas fo nd in cle „ mg heir port as the infeription under it fets forth T p S as looking through a fort of window, and, I belief the whole length of ,t is not feen: about halfayard of it anoears but the reft may probably be no more than a'furt c E ' jonoflnef. me iron wh tch is in view; within which ("is hkely) went the beam of timber 'twas fix'd upon. If h feen^tho 5 "Sfffi* & £ S ^ *°^ °%^e hith ml ieen, (though thofeon the Columna Roftrata in the Cani'ol at Rome are doubtlefs authentick reprefentations) £fi «£ tamly be efteem'd a very valuable rarity. As I was going about the town, I obferv'd on the princinat gates fome pieces of great iron chains hung up on eachof tS Jans which (whilethey were a republick) they had near wSthe C C P / f3nS "^ Uken *«*«*»**> th'eGenoe f which the Genoefe retook , broke the great chain which was to fecure the gall.es in the harbour, and brought away the g allies* H/Wd ////j <7f 2'tty a0. aS&w&wm, at -tf&ttw- ^B-oj-lIuA. Jhf.47*. Vetv^tioei^ HOC JS.VI Tx.OMA.~Nl ROSTRUM IN" EXPURGANDO PORTU ANNO MDXCVII ERUTUM UNlCTJM. HUCTJ $ h VI $UM, EXIMI3L MAI ORUM IN RE NAUTICA GLORIA DICAVERE CONClVES. GENOA. SARZANO. MASS A, gallies, chain and all, which they diftributed in pieces, as abdve-mention'd. After I had left Genoa, I was told of a law they have there againft fodomy, in thefe words : Contra naturam luxuriant, ... Pro prima vice poena folidorum duodechn condemnctur ; pro Jecundd vice, p^end folidorum viginti ; pro tertid, igne creme- tur ■, nifi tamen titulofanitatis id fecerit ; eo cafu, ab urbe eji- catur, tanquam fajlidifus. -How they explain the titulo fanitatis,! could not learn. However it be, they fcem willing to give a falvo even to the third offence. Having taken this fhort view of Genoa, I refolv'd to attack the mountains again, and took poft next morning for Sarzano, fometimes horfes, fometimes mules, according as the roads would admit. When I came to Sarzano, I had done with the mountains : the country was then plain, and the roads good ; fo from thence I took a poftchaife to Pifa, and fo to Leghorn. I pass'd through Mafia ; and near Carrara, where are the famous rocks of white marble, which fupply all Europe for ftatues, and other fine works. The duke of MafTa's ter- ritory is but final], yet by fqueezing his fubjedts, he makes fhift to keep up the port of a prince as to himfelf, and is faid to keep a gay court. He was at that time (I think) in France. On my road this way, I faw a young lafs tolerably well drefs'd, fine yellow (hoes, and fcarlet flockings, riding aftride on an afs. Such fights were afterwards more frequent. I forbear to fay any thing now of Pifa, Leghorn, or Rome, (whither -I went at this time) or any other places I did re-vifir, choofing to referve what I have to fay of thefe places 'till I come again to them. After a fhort flay at Rome, I came to Reggio [in Lombar- dy] in company with a Milanefe baron. We fet out about fun- iet, and travell'd all night. Being a little fatigued that day, I was very fleepy in the chaife ; and every time I began to nod, my baron gave me a (hake, or touch of the elbow, with thefe awakening words, Sidormis, moreris ; " If you fleep you die j" (for we fpoke Latin, I being then but very flenderly furnifiYd E 2 with 27 *® T O R N I E R L with Italian) and enforc'd his elbow-arguments with exam- ples of fome terrible effefts of ileeping in the Campagna of Rome, to thofe who come out thence during the time of the heats ; for this was about the middle of June. We came to Tornieri, which is 105 miles from Rome, before we went to bed ; but that was for expedition ; for the danger of fleeping does not continue for above thirty miles from Rome. The perfectly fuperftitious caution of the Romans, as to what I have been fpeaking of, is very great. For, for thofe that have been any time in the city, to go out of it, and fleep within the Campagna, is efleem'd death : on the other hand, for fuch as live in the Campagna, and come into Rome in the time of the heats and fleep there, is efteem'd death likewife. This notion had fuch weight with a prieft, who belong'd to a convent at fome diftance from Rome, and was tutor to the fonsof the houfe where we lodg'd, that having occalion to come to Rome in the time of the heats, and vifiting there the parents of his pu- pils, (we were there at the fame time) though he ftaid in town two nights, he kept himfelf awake (drinking quantities of tea, &c.) all the time : which was the more extraordinary, it be- ing the general cuftom of the Italians, befides the night-reft, to go to fleep for two or three hours after dinner in the hot weather. Some, I have been told, carry it lb far, that they would not change their room, nor even have their bed remov'd to another fide of the fame, room, upon any account. Mcafuring of time. The way of meafuringof time in Italy, appears pretty odd to a new comer : it founds a little ftrangely to hear them talk of fifteen or twenty a-clock : for they reckon round all the twenty-four hours. The fetting of the fun, or the ringing of the Ave-Mary-bell, whichisfomewhat after, in fome places, is what they begin from; fo that if the fun fet at eight a-clock Englilh, then nine is one hour, and fo on, till the fun fet again, which is twenty-four. But the compafs of the clocks rarely goes any farther than twelve ; in many places, no more than fix ; and fo begins again ; fo that when a clock ftrikes three, at one time it is to be underftood as three, at another as nine, at another as ffteen, at another as twenty-one ; the general time of the day is guide fufhcient for you to know which R E G G I O. which of the threes it is. By this way of meafuring from fun- fct, the noon-hour (and indeed every other) is continually va- rying ; it being mid-day fometimes at fixteen hours, and fome- times at nineteen j and fo at all the intermediate times : fo that 'tis impoffible for a clock or watch which is fet the Italian way to go e'xadly right any two days together j therefore they alter them once a fortnight ; and in the mean time make allowance for the difference. . ■ • It feems as if the contrivers of this way of reckoning the time, [beginning from the fetting of the fun] took their hint from the Molaic account of the creation, and the exprefhon there us'd, And the evening and the morning were thejirjt day. In Rome, and fome other places, the clocks ftrike the hour twice, after about a minute's paufe between. On my road to Reggio, I faw a pilgrim repofing hirafelf with a vaft heavy crofs, a perfedt tree, lying by him, which after fome time he began to tug at, and raifing one end, got it upon his moulder, and putting the crofs-beam before hrsbreaft, theothcr end lying on the ground, march'd along with it; which (according to the account of the time, and the fize of the timber) feem'd to be the fame we faw afterwards at Rome m a cloyft er of St. John'Lateran, which we were told the pilgrim had carry 'd or dragg'd along from Bohemia thither. But one muff not be too fecure upon fuch appearances of penance : for we were told of a foot-pad, who being drefs'd in the habit of a pilgrim, and having a great crofs along with him, robb'd the paffengers, and when he was taken, a considerable fum was found, ffow'd in a hollow within his crofs. REGGIO. REGGIO is a cityfubjed to the duke of Modena, and the people there give their own city the priority in the duke's title, ftyling him duke of Reggio and Modena; to which may now be added Mirandola, which is fubjea: to him. We had audience of the duke at his palace within the ca- flle. His highnefs receiv'd us playing his fan. After the firff reverence, at his highnefs's command, we all put on oat- hats ; *9 3° R E G G I O. hats ('tis the cuftom) j and his highnefs difcours'd of his bein* at London in king Charles's time; fpoke of the great chan- cellor shoufehe had feen [Clarendon-houfe]; and told ushe had pafrd under London-Bridge. We had audience afterwards of the two princes his fons ; and then of the dutchefs of Hal nover, mother to the late dutchefs of Modena. Our audience of the younger prince was fitring ; of all the reft that have been ment.on'd, ftanding. The dutchefs was pleas'd to talk to us wuh great condefcenfion and affability; and did us the honour to take notice of her being coufin to king George as we 1 as of her being mother to the emprefs, &c. We faw a ball at court : the two princes took out none to dance 'with but the two princeffes their fitters. The palace is but ordi- nary for a fovereign prince j 'tis not indeed his chief refidence • that is at Modena. In the hall are pictures of his hiohnefs's anceftors : fome of which, according to the accounts there under-written, hv'd about 1200 years ago. _ There was a fine opera at -Reggie, as there is always at the time of the fair ; and is generally efteem'd the beft in Italy- ■the new-marry'd princefs of Modena (already memion'd] then made her firft appearance there. The opera-houfc at Re^io was the moft noify one I ever heard ; the company went from box tobox to vifit one another ; others were playing at cards • and minded the opera no more [though Fauftina fans] than if it had been a fermon. ■ In the churches of Reggio are copies of fuch original pic- tures as were once there, but have fince been remov'd to his highnefs's palace at Modena. In the dome I obferv'd an epitaph,- Pelegrmo Alverno, facer dotl grtmikmo, virgini- tatis laude maxime claro ; " ToPelegrine Alverno, a very ''grave pneft, who was moft famous for his virsin-chaftity " Whereby it fliould feem that fuch a character was efteem'd a rarity among them, notwithftanding their perpetual celibacy The women of Reggio -and Modena go veil'd : the fcarf that goes about their moulders being thrown alfo over their heads, and brought over their faces in fuch a manner, that you fee nothing but.their eyes; fo that they take care to fee you though you mall not fee them. When I firft faw a number of them together, I thought they had been fome mourners be- longing to a funeral. T ^ e R E G G I 0. S The Jews of Reggio, who us'd to be fcatter'd about the town, were in the year 1671 (aslfound by an infeription over one of the gates) limited to one part of it [a ghetta, as they call fuch places in the cities- of Italy] by order of a dutchefs- regent at that time. It has feveral little ftreets,- and a fyna- goo-ue. The gates at the feveral entrances, I was told, are IT* all fhut about fun-fet. I faw them (hutting and locking one on the outiide, as I pafs'd by one evening about that time.. One day in the fair, I happen'd to light upon the fight of a-monftrous birth, expos'd there to view by the father and tno- iher, who were of Cremona. The half-brother (if I may fo- call the addition) wanted all the upper parts, and had all the lower ; they were join'd belly to belly above the navel of the intire one, the half one having no navel ; they were both^ male; the whole one was a fine jolly child, and had a beautiful face; about nine months old, and was very fprightly. The urine paffes fometimes from one, . fometimes from the other ; (never from both together) the excrement only from the intire one. The limbs of the half one feem'd to have grown very: little fince the birth ; nor were they quite fo warm as thofe of the other ; and the finevvs of his hams were very much contracted. I. was the more particular in my enquiry, looking upon this (tho' not fo extraordinary as the famous Hungarian twins fhewn fome years ago in London, yet) as a very uncom- mon work of Providence. We faw at Milan and Verona fome : embryo.es of two bodies join'd, with one head.. The country of Lombardy is perfectly flat ; a rich foil; fine paftures and corn-fields ; .abundance of vines, and white mul- berry-trees for the filk- worms ; the vines running up their branches. . This country is the nneft we faw in Italy, unlefs you'll except the Campagna Felice about Naples. We obferv'd few timber-trees, only elms and poplars, which fupport the vine-branches, as I obferv'd before of the mulberry-trees. The roads are very broad and even, and moft pleafant travelling in the fummer; but fome of them deep enough in the winter : the hedges by the road-fide are many of them cut, and manag'd with a great deal of exaftneis. The vines run up the bodies vines in of the trees, and intermix themfelves with their branches \_altas Lombardy. maritant 3? LOMBARD Y. maritant populos] ; and the extremities are drawn out from tree to tree, and hang in feftoons between them along the road- hedges ; from thofe hedges there go rows of trees along the grounds, at about forty or fifty yards diftance from each other; the vines alt running up their bodies : and here, befides the feftoons hanging from tree to tree, the vine-branches are ex- tended right and left, and faften'd to a row of ftakes on each fide; which run parallel to the trees : and thefe ftakes are as fo many pillars, fupporting a fort of penthoufe, or oblique roof, which is form'd by the vine branches on each fide the trees. Thus are the grounds difpofed and planted on both fides the road, and the trees with the vines manag'd in this fort of na- tural architecture, generally fpeaking, all over Lombardy. Carriages. The carriages in Lombardy, and indeed throughout all Italy, are forthemoft part drawn with oxen ; which are of a whitiih colour : they have very low wheels. Some I faw with- out fpokes, folid like mill-ftones ; fuch as I have feen defcrib'd in fome antique baffo -relievo's and Mofaicks. The pole they draw by, is floped upwards towards the end; which is rais'd confiderably above their head; from whence a chain, or rope, is let down and faften'd to their horns ; which keeps up their heads, and ferves to back the carriage. In fome parts they ufe no yokes, but draw all by the horn, by a fort of a brace brought about the roots of them : the backs of the oxen are generally cover'd with a cloth. In the kingdom of Naples, and Buffaloes. Jome other parts, they ufe buffaloes in their carriages, &c. Thefe do fomewhat refemble oxen : but are moft four ill- looking animals, and very vicious ; for the better management of them they generally put rings in their nofes. The butter and cheefe made of buffalo's milk, is fad fluff : the latter fo much refembles hog's lard, that 'tis fometimes miftaken for it ; of which we had fome pleafant inftances. They have one fort of favourite Madonna all over Lombardy, which is painted on the outiide of the houfes in the towns and villages, and on little walls raifed altar-wife along the roads. The Chrift is laid on a bank, &c. at a little diftance from her ; and (he is in an inclin'd pofture of admiration and adoration, looking towards him ; and thefe words are writ under, Quem gertuit, adoravit. " Him, whom fhe brought forth, fheador'd." This !-- _-_ PARMA. GUASTALLA. This, I think, is the only inftance I have obferv'd among them, wherein the Madonna does not feem to have the fuperiority over the Chrift. From Reggio, of which I have been fpeaking, the fir ft place of note we came to, was Parma : from thence we made a fhort vifit to Modena; and at our return, purfued our journey, by the way of Mantua, Verona, Padua, &c. to Venice. We vifited Modena, Parma, and Verona a fecond time, after we had left Venice, and had been at Rome, Naples, &c. . So I referve what I have to fay of thofe places, 'till I come again to them. 33 In our way from Parma to Mantua, we pafs'd the river Leinza by a ferry, near a little village call'd Sorbolo : a large bridge there had been broken down by a great inundation about two years before. We afterwards pafs'd through Guaftieri and Guaftalla : at the former, there is an uninhabited palace of the duke of Modena. There is a large handfome fquare, with a portico going about three fides of it. The dutchy of Guaftalla is now in the hands of the empe- ror : as we pafs'd by, we faw fome antique ftatues left about the palace, but all feem'd to be in great diforder. We afterwards pafs'd the Po by aferry nearBorgoForte. The roads hereabouts were then bad in July ; though rais'd in fome places about twelve or fifteen foot above the level of the country. The way of paffing the Po, and fome other of the great rivers, is by a ferry made of two boats, over which is laid a floor of planks large enough to receive four or five coaches with their horfes at once. The planks are fo laid as to keep the boats at two or three yards diftanee from each other, for the water to pafs between them. In the middle of the river, about ioo yards above the part which is to be crofs'd,or more, if the paflage be very broad, is fix'd an anchor, or fome- times the body of a tree, for a center ; from thence is brought a cable held out of the water by a row of fmall boats (perhaps ?. dozen) and continued to the ferry-boat j this cable keeps it from being carried down the ftream ; and as foon as 'tis put in motion by the current, the direction of the rudder carries F it MANTUA. it a-crofs. The joyn'd boats, of which the veffel is made, move fide-ways ; fo that the current of the water runs alon» between them ; by which means the cable is lefs ftrain'd, the flream having lefs power upon them. In this journey we pafs'd by Luzara, where was fought the battle between prince Eugene and the French. MANTUA. "Antua, in or near which place Virgil was born, as ap- __ pears (among other teftimonies) from his old epitaph [Mantua me genuit, &c] is faid to have been built 600 years before Chrift. 'Tis fituated in the midftof a lake, which is made by the river Mincio : we pafs'd over it by long bridges. The water of this lake was very low, when we pafs'd it in July, and all over-grown with reeds and fedges. We find 'twas fb in Virgil's time. Mincius- -velatus Ar undine glaucd JEn. 10. Mincius with wreaths of reeds his forehead cover'd o'er. Dryden. To this perhaps may allude that other pafTage of Virgil, Et qualem infelix ami/it Mantua campum Pa/cent em niveos Herbofo flumine cygnos. Geo. L. 2. Or fuch a field as haplefs Mantua loft, Where filver fwans fail down the watry road, And graze the floating herbage of the flood. Dryd. When it was that Mantua loft its country, Servius in his notes upon this paffage informs us, together with the occafion of it ; which was, when Auguftus order'd the grounds about Mantua, as well as thofe of the Cremonefe, to be diftributed among his foldiers. Auguftus having gain'd the vi&ory over M. Antony, as a puniflhment to the Cremonefe, who had fided with Antony, took their grounds from them, and gave 'em to his army ; and thefe being notfufficienr, he added thofe of the Mantuans ; MANTUA. Mantuans ; not through any fault of theirs, but by reafon of their unfortunate neighbourhood ; and this gave occation to that other paflage. — — Superet modo Mantua nobis ; Mantua, v If thou Tarpeian tow'rs, great Jove, faid he, Prefer to thefe, and Tiber to the fea, Compare the cities, view 'em both, and then Own this was built by gods, and that by men. The * firft rife of Venice was owing to the terrible havock made by Attila, that Flagellum Dei, that fcourge of god, (as he is call'd) on the Terra Jirma, when he routed the people from their habitations, and drove all before him with Fire and fword. Such as could, betook themfelves to the banks where Venice now ftands, and there took refuge ; and the repofe which was denied them on land, they found arnidft. the wa- ters. And as Romulus's Rome was only clay cottages, and con- tinued little better, 'till Auguftus gave her marble palaces ; fo * That is, firft as to any thing confiderable : tho' the iflands of the Lagune where Venice now ftands, were inhabited long before ; but that was only by poor fifhermen, till the beginning of the fifth century; at which time theRialto being declar'da place of refuge by the Paduans, who were lords of the iflands of the Lagune, it began then to be flock'd to as a fafe retreat, in times of calamity and diflrefs ; which were brought upon them by the feveral incurfions of the Goths and Huns : of the Goths, firft under Radagaifius in the year 407; afterwards under Alaric, in the year 41 3 ;- of the Huns under Attila, as above mentioned. was VENICE. 47 was the original Venice Lateritia*. tho' it be now Marmorea; Ro . mamLa - r . r °. . . ', r . r . . . termam m- rorloin fact it now is, inagreatmeaiure; ieveral or its churches, veni, Marmo- other publick buildings, and the principal palaces, being all of ream reliqui. marble; and not plain marble only, but inlaid with Serpen- tine, Porphyry, and other richer ftones. That part of Venice we firft came to, is much broader than the other, which is in a great meafure taken up by the arfenal. The great canal runs through the nearer part of it, in the figure of an S inverted •&- the famous bridge of the Rialto going over the middle of it, There is another confiderable canal called Canal Regio, but nothing fo great as the laft named : that canal is itrait : the lefTer canals like veins in a body difperfe themfelves through every part of the city. Thefe canals are the great ftreets of Venice; for tbeland-paffages (which they call indeed no more than Calk, paths or foot-ways) are much the fame with our alleys in London. Nor do 1 know any thing fo like them as the alleys by Round-Court near Covent-Garden. There is ge- nerally little more room than for two to go a-breaft; and when you come to a place big enough for a boy to whip a top in, they call it a Campo. Tho' the general and mod publick paffage be by water, there is a communication between all the land- paifages (except thofe of the Giudecca) by bridges ; of which, there are between four and five hundred. Thefe bridges very rarely have any battlements, and generally confift of one arch. The afcent to them is by fteps, made of what they call the Pietra dura, a fort of white marble ; which is often fo ilippery, it requires a careful footing. There is not fuch a thing as a coach or a cart to be feen in all this great city : if there were, I know not where they muft drive them. All weighty burthens are carried by water; all vifits paid the fame way; and you have no more to do than flep out of your Gondola into your friend's houfe. In fome few places, they have what they call the * It was, in ftriftnefs, then not fo much as Lateritia. Reeds and wood were the firft houfes, in the time of Alaric Afterwards, upon the miferable destruction of the cities on the Terra f.rma, by Attila, the people that were driven from them having now no hopes of returning to their former habitations, began by degrees to fettle them- felves in the Lagime ; fetching away the '.tones and marble. of thofe dernolilh'd places to build themfelves others more fafe in thofe iflands. Appendix to Pujindcrf's In- troduction tc the Hijhry of the principal Kingdoms and Sta'ei of Europe. Fun- 4 3 VENICE. Fundamente between the canals and the houfes, like the quays [or keys] they generally have in the towns of Holland, and in fome places here : thofe that are on the fides of Fleet-ditch are moft like them of any that I know here. But for the mod part the houfes ftand direftly in the water ; with a pair of ftairs for conveniency of landing. We frequently fee crab-fifb, left at low-water, crawling on the fides of the houfes. They call them Grand teneri, tender crabs, their (hells being fdft. The profpects are often very agreeable as you pafs along the canals : the perfpedlive view through the arches of many bridges at once, in the leffer canals, and palaces fre- quent in all, but more particularly adorning each fide of the great one, make the voyaging through thefe watry ftreets very entertaining. I know not what there may be in other parts of the world ; but there feems fomewhat particular in this city that diftinguifhes it from all others I have feen ; not only in its extraordinary Situation, but the very look of the city itfelf; in the appearance of the nobles ; in the diversions of the peo- ple; a good deal in their habits, efpecially thofe of the wo- men, which differ even from thofe of the other cities of Italy. The churches, fchools and palaces, are many of them built in regular orders of architecture, and in a good tafte, by Pal- ladio, Scamozzi, Sanfovino, &c. The older ones have a fort of Gothick finery, which may be call'd rich at leaft, if not beau- tiful. The outfide ornaments of each of thefe feldom extend further than the Facade : there are indeed fome exceptions. 'Tis not enough that the churches, and other principal build- ings, abound with fine paintings within ; but you'll fee many private houfes, and fome of them mean enough in other refpe&s, ennobled on the ouliide walls, by the hands of Titian, Tinto- ret, Paolo Veronefe, Giorgione, Pordenone, and other princi- pal Venetian matters. This practice in general is common enough in other cities of Italy ; but we do not often elfewhere meet with fuch hands on the outfides of houfes as we do here. The chief and much the moft beautiful part of the city is the Piazza di S. Marco. 'Tis of an oblong figure, having the church of St. Mark at one end, and that of St. Giminiano the other. On the fides, are the Procurati's; the old at on one fide, the new on the other. The Piazza makes a VENICE. a return at a right angle, towards the fea; and with it the new * procuraties on one fide ; the Doge's palace is on the other. This return of the Piazza is called the Piazzetta, or little place. On one fide df the Piazzetta [that next the Doge's palace] is the Broglio, where the noblemen meet and walk, and no other perfon is to intermix among them, or walk in that part while they are there, except barely tocrofs. I have feen them fome- times on the other fide, but the firft is that which they moft ufually frequent. They are fo civil as to take up no more than one fide at once. At the corner of the new procuraties, juft as you turn out of the Piazza into the Piazzetta, ftands the C' lile [or fteeple] of St. Mark ; for in Italy the ftee- ples are generally feparate from the churches. At the end of the Piazzetta next the fea, are two ■f Granite pillars; on the top of one is St. Mark's lion, on the other is St. Theodore, and a crocodile at his feet. St. Theodore was the ancient patron of Venice, but was forc'd to give way to St. Mark upon the arrival of his body there. St. Theodore holds a lance in his left hand, and has a buckler on his right; which they fay is a fymbol, denoting that felf-defence is the principal thing they aim at, and that they are never forward to take up offtnlive arms but in cafe of neceflity. Notwithftanding this plaufible explication they give of the matter, it feems to have been the fculptor's blunder; which the Venetian engravers of thefe days choofe rather to cover thanaccountfor,by puttingthe lance in the right hand, in the prints they give us of him. Be- tween thofe two pillars is the place where criminals are execu- ted : and 'tis faid that the noble Venetians won't by any means pafs between them ; that they look upon it as ominous, and a prefage that he that does it, (hall end his days there. This iuperftition had its rife from the example of the doge Marino Falieri, who arriving at Venice after his election, and not be- ing able to pafs under the bridge of the Canal di S. Marco, the waters being fo high, landed between thefe pillars : which * The Pfo:uratit, as they call them at Venice, (or Procuraties in Englifh) are ranges of apartments belonging to the Procurators of St. Mark. Somewhat more will be faid of thefe hereafter. t An ^Egyptian 'tone; wherein are many grains, or- fmall ftones, diflinS ; like I which gravel confifts. I have feen, in the obelilks at Rome, which are of the fame fort of (tone, empty holes or fockets, whence the fmall {tones had been ftruek or pick'd out. H did 49 So Araelot. VENICE. did indeed precede his ill fate, but furely did not caufe it. This doge, not able to obtain the juftice he demanded againft Michael Sten, who had been too free with his wife, or one of his family, refolv'd to revenge himfelf by a maffacre of the principal nobility j but one engag'd with him in the confpiracy, [Bertrand Pelizzarre] difcover'd it to the inquifitors of flate, who the fame day cut off" this doge's head in the nrft year of his government, and the 8oth of his age. In memory of this difcovery they have now an annual pro- ceffion round the Piazza di S, Marco on the 16th of April, St. lfidore's day ; and in the hall of the great council, where are the pictures of the doges, with their names, there is only a black cloth in the place of his, (per infaujla memoria didifio-- nore, for the unhappy memory of the difgrace, as fays Contarini in his hiftory of Venice) with thefe words, Locus Marini Fale- tri decapkati, " The place of Marino Falieri, who was be- headed." They have it now for a proverb at Venice, Guardati dallntercolonnio, '.' Haveacareof the fpace between the pillars." Near the other end of the Piazzetta are two fquare pillars of white marble, between which 'tis faid a doge was once hang'd ; and they have fince been called The Doge's Gibbet : they ftand juft at the entrance into the doge's palace. Hard by are four figures, two and two, as whifpering ; which they fay reprefent fo many brothers, each two of them plotting to poifon the other two, which accordingly they did, and all four died. We cannot fay of the church of St. Mark as Ovid does of the palace of the fun, that the workmanfhip out-does the mate- rials, but jufl the reverfe. I have never feen fuch variety of marble in any one place.and that fo beautiful ashere; the whole church, infide and outfide, is all marble and Mofaick, cieling, iides, and floor. There is indeed an exceffive diligence feen in the workmanfhip, which has produced a perfect exaclnefs as to the manual part: 'tis pity the defign was not conducted by a better judgement, and a finer tafte of architecture : 'tis neither what we call gothick, nor is it regular: thofe that have been in Greece fay 'tis built after the manner of the churches there j and it feemsto be an aukward irregular putting together of fome of the regular parts of architecture ; for the pillars are many of them of the Greek orders, but not right either in their meafures or difpofition. There are a world of trifling fmall pillars at the ^ front VENICE. front without ; four or five little ones mounted on the top of a big one. The infide feems much better than the outfide ; the parts larger and more noble; but 'tis heavy and dark. The Mofaick defigns (after Titian) are fome of them as good, as others (the elder ones) are odd andextravagant. They are molt of them fcripture-ftories, or legendary accounts of fome of their faints: but there are likewife other fancies. Among the reft there are reprefented two lions fair and fat, plac'd in the water; two others, lean and meagre, upon dry land ; to de- note that the Venetians (whofe enfign is the lion), while they employ themfelves at fea, will be rich and powerful ; but if they leave that for the land, will become poor and weak. There is a fort of Portico at the entrance ; which likewife makes a return, and encompaffes a good part of the church: this alfo has a great deal of Mofaick. Over the chief entrance there is a figure in a prieft's habit, with his hands extended upwards; and over his head a fingle hand, as bleffing him. This is a very good piece of Mofaick after a defign of Titian. They have here a Madonna, which they tell you was painted by St. Luke ; and fome pillars from Solomon's temple : I think they are of Serpentine. St. Luke is but little oblig'd to them for the pieces they afcribe to him : charcoal and brick-duft are generally their prevailing tin&s. It feems as if they pick'd up the mod fullied gloomy Madonna's they could get, as better favouring of an- tiquity, to affix St. Luke's name to : but the mifchief on't is, that feveral we have feen appear to have been painted in oil ; which was not made ufe of in painting, 'till of very late days, compar'd with thofe of St. Luke. They generally indeed take care you {hall not come very near, to examine the workmanihip; but keep you at an awful diftance, under a (hew of reverence to the facred image; which has for the moft part aglafs over it too. The middle gates at the principal entrance into this church are of brafs ; I think thofe on each fide them are fo too. 'Tis not only the infide of this church and Portico that is fil- led with Mofaick; but they have a great deal on the outfide likewife, open to the Piazza, in the Mezzo-Lune, as they call 'em [half-moons], under the feveral arches, defign'd by Maffeo of Verona. Over the middle gate ftand the four fa- mous antique horfes, of brafs gilt. It is faid they are the work of Lyfippus, and that they were prefented to Nero by Tiridates H 2 king SJ- ga V E N I C E. king of Armenia. They flood firfton Nero's triumphal arch at Rome, and were remov'd thence by Conftantine to Con- stantinople ; when the Christians took that city in the year 1206, they were brought thence by the Venetians, and plac'd where they now remain. A good-deal of gilding yet appears: in the other parts they are greenifh, occafion'd by the wea- ther. They are of a fine defign, and great fpirit in the ex- ecution. I have feen medals of Nero, having on their reverie the triumphal arch, with the horfes upon it. 'Tis faid it was the intent of the Venetians at the building of this church, to make it the fineft thing that fhould be feen ; and had the architect been as good as the materials are rich, it might have been fo; for certainly no coft or pains have been wanting, that might contribute to its ornament. On the fouth fide of this church ftands contiguous the trea- furyofSt. Mark, rich in jewels and inrelicks; the different trea- fures are kept feparate ; the flate-jewels in one apartment, the relicks in another: tho' the later are pretty well enrich'd with jewels too. The fight of this treafury is not a matter very eafily to be compa-fs'd. Three procurators of St. Mark have the three keys of it, and 'tis necefiary that one of them be prefent whenever it is (hewn, and that the other two fend their keys : fothat the opening of it is generally in compliment toperfons of distinction; and there havebeen inflancesof fomeof them, who tho' they have been promifed aiightof it, and hadatime fixed for that purpole ; yet have waited for fome hours, and been difap- poin-ted after all': but my lord Parker had a quick and refpectf ul admittance. The procurator Fofcarini was the gentleman who took the trouble of being there that day. The principal relicks they fhew'd us, were, what they call'd the blood of our Saviour:, fome of the wood of the crofs, one of the nails, and one of the thorns ; a knife made ufe of at our Lord's lalt fupper : fome milk of the Bleffed Virgin, fome of her-hair, and fome of her veil. Relicks of faints in great abundance; their flculls and other bones ; parts of their garments, &c. Among the reft they fhew'd a joint of St. Chriftopher's finger, which a lady who flood next to me obferving to be a very large one, declar'd fhe fhould now no longer wonder that they painted St. Chrifto- pher of fo vaft a fize ; and, large indeed are the reprefentations of him : I have feen pictures and ftatues of him which I believe were - V E N I C E. were ten yards high. There were feveral noble ladies there',-. for this treafury is fo feldom feen, that when it is to be opened, 'tis prefently nois'd about ; the procurator admits fome of his acquaintance, and others are ready to crowd in ; fo that we had fome difficulty to get a fight of what we came for. This apartment was fhewn by a canon of the church of St. Mark. At the fhewing of the temporal treafury, the Procurator was clofely prefent himfelf. Here are kept the ftate-jewels : the chief of which is the doge's Corno ; the fellow who fhew'd it inadvertently call'd it La*Beretta del SereniJJimo ; but, by di- * Cap, redion of the procurator who prefided, he chang'd the term to that of Corona. The cap-part of the Corn? is of crimfon vel- vet, brought forward with a fort of puffa-top, after the man- ner of what is always called among the virtuofi, the Phrygian bonnet -, as it is feen in feveral antique ftatues and baflb-Relie- vo's ; particularly their own Ganymede, which hangs from the cieling at the entrance into their publick library ; and alfo on fome medals. The lower part is encompafs'd with a circle of gold, fet with large pearls, and other jewels of a great value (as are likewife the other parts), and a rich carbuncle a-top. The origin of the ducal Corno, fome pretend to have been this. That Pepin, fon of Charles the Great, being by his fa- ther eftablim'd King of Lomardy, had a mind to fee the rialto (for as yet.it was'not call'd Venice) ; and being received there with great marks of honour, did, on his part, make a Return, by feveral ads of liberality ; difcharging the annual tributes, payable by them to him, and prefenting them with land of five miles extent in the Terrajirma againft theLagune; with ample liberty of trafficking, both by fea and land : and that Pepin, obferving the doge to wear no external mark of dignity, took off one of the fleeves of his veft, and put it upon the doge's head in the form of a bonnet : and from hence came the original of the ducal Corno or horn ; fo named, from the pointed end of this fleeve upon his head. And at that time, it is faid, the place firfl received the name of Venice ; for that Pepin would have the ifle of Rialto, with the other neighbouring iflands, to bear the name of Venice, by which name the whole ; r enetl . or .... , T J - .,, , neneti. province adjoining to the Lagune was then call d. They fhew alfo the crowns of Crete and Cyprus ; the Vene- tians have the crowns, and the Turks the kingdoms,. We faw like- S3 54 VENICE. likewife twelve gold breaft-plates, enrich'd with large pearls, and other jewels, which belong'd to the ladies attending the Queen of Cyprus* ; and as many rich ornaments for the head which were for the ladies of Helena the emprefs. There were a great many other rich jewels, and curious veffels of rock- cryftal, agate, and jafpers, of which it were as endlefs as ufelefs, to attempt an inventory ; befides, that fome of them have been mention'd by others. Over the door there is placed a very cu- rious piece of art, a St. Jerom in the wildernefs, in Mofaick: 'tis of a very good defign, and particularly curious for the workmanfhip : the bits of ftone are exceffively fmall, and fo they had need, for the whole figure feem'd not above a foot in length ; yet every part perfectly well exprefs'-d ; not only in the principal figure, but in his companion-lion, and the landskape. The doge's palace is contiguous to the church of St. Mark : a corner of the church comes into the court, and appears as a part of the palace. At this corner ftand two good ftatues of Adam and Eve, made by Andrea Riccio a Paduan. The ar- chitecture of the palace, on the outfides which are towards the Piazzetta and the fea, is very odd and extravagant. There are two heights of porticoes which go all along ; above, there is a flat Brick-wall carried up, without either pillar or pilafler j only variegated with different colour'd bricks, and fome ill— lhap'd gothick windows. The depth of this plain wall is more than that of the two porticoes which are under it put together j fo that it has a very heavy look. The pillars in the lower por- tico have no bafe, and are fcarce half the length they mould be; * The fiory that is told of the method whereby the Venetians became poflefs'd of the crown of Cyprus, and the breait-plates of thefe ladies, has not all the circumftances of honour that one could wifh. James, the laft king of Cyprus, confidering the intire friendfhip that had been kept up between his anceltors and the Venetians, came to Ve- nice, and defir'd the fenate to fingle out one of the noblemen's daughters, and adopt her as daughter of the common-wealth, in order to be his wife. Accordingly they gave him in marriage Katharine Cornaro, a very beautiful young lady : upon which he return'dhome, and lived in peace. At his death, leaving his wife big with child, he ordain'd that me and her child mould enjoy the kingdom. The child died foon after it was born : and the Venetians hearing of the king's death, fent fome armed gal- lies, under the command of her broiher, George Cornaro, with the pretence of acom- pliment of eondolanoe, _in the name of the fenate. Purfuant to the inftruaions given by the fenate, Cornaro no fooner came before Famagofla (the metropolis of Cyprus) than he feigned himfelf fick, fo that he could not go alhore : upon the news of which, the queen, with fome of her courtiers, came on board to vifit her brother ; where (he and her train were.fecur'd ; and the Venetians furprifing the city, fubdued it, and the whole kingdom. See appendix to Puffendorf's introduction. fo VENICE. fo that you can hardly forbear imagining the other half to be in the ground, and that they have funk beneath the heavy weight a-top. The third fide [which goes along a narrow canal] is built in a much better manner of architecture, of the pietra dura, a fort of marble they have from Iftria : This fide has a very rich look ; but whatever beauty there is in it, is in a great meafure loft, for want of a due diftance to view it at, fo that you fee all forefhorten'd above you. On the other fide the canal are the prifons ; to which there is a cover'd bridge of communication from the palace, for con- veying the prifoners thither to be examin'd by themagiftrates in the palace. This bridge they call (and juftly enough) Ponte de Sofpiri [the bridge of fighs] perhaps in allufion to the Scalce Gemonice of old Rome. There is a front of the prifons towards the fea, handfomely built by Sanfovino ; a double row of por- ticoes goes along three fides of the court within the palace j the church of St. Mark is on the fourth. On the top of the principal ftairs, which lead to the upper portico or gallery, are two coloflal ftatues of white marble, which are ufually call'd the Giganti ; made by Sanfovin, who was a very good- fculptor, as well as architect : they reprefent Mars and Nep- tune : thefe are intended to fet forth the power of the Vene- .tians by land and fea. Among other ornaments on thefe flairs are reprefented fome baskets of medlars ; and the Vene- tians, who are very fond of conceits, have found out one in this : thefe being plac'd as ornaments to the publick palace, the rendezvous of themagiftrates, and the feat of government, and being a fruit very harm and unpleafant, till fully ripe, they, tell you 'tis a fymbol or emblem, denoting that the admini- ftration of publick affairs in a well-order'd government, ought- not to be in the hands of young raw perfons, but thofe of ma- ture age and experience. As you go along the porticoes, you fee feveral gaping mouths, which they call the Denuncie Secrete; ■ they are to receive informations, by billets dropt in there, of any offences committed againft the government; as importing of contraband goods, falfe coining, abufes in the arfenal, . navy or army ; publifhing prohibited books, cabals, or inter- medling with affairs of ftate ; with many other particulars in the feveral branches of their government. And there are infcrip- 55 j?6 VENICE. infcriptions on the wall, near each of the mouth?, to {hew feverally what the crimes are that are to be inform'd of in each : what in this, and what in that, &c. The cells that thefe billets are dropt into, have a proper officer belonging to each, whofe bufinefs is to infpecb -thefe particular matters, and make their report to the inquifitors of {rate, as fome have told me : others, that the inquifitors of ftate go from box to box, and infpecl them themfelves ; and that they keep the keys of them. In this palace are the feveral halls of the magiftracy, and courts of juftice; for though it be called the doge's palace, he is lit- tle more than a lodger in it : it is indeed the palace of the republick, the publick halls and offices belonging to them making much the greateft part of it. The flairs that lead from the upper portico or gallery into the apartments, are mo ft richly adorn'd with paintings, and Stucco [plaifter-work] gilt ; the flairs themfelves are of the fineft marble inlaid ; and now who would believe but thofe who have feen it, that thefe ftair-cafes, and other avenues adorned in like manner, with fuch exceffive labour, art, and expence, mould be fuffer'd to become peife<£hhoufes of office j with fuch filthy heaps, and nafty lakes, even at the entrance into the hall of the great council, that one fcarce knows where to tread ? 'twould make the reader fick to fay any more of it. But, this is a top inftance of the Venetian liberty. 'Twould require a whole volume to defcribe the multitude of fine paintings in the feveral courts of juftice, and the apart- ments belonging to them. There are fome few of Titian, but vaft numbers of Paolo Veronefe, Tintorer, the Palma's^ Baflano, and many others. I need not attempt a defcription of the particulars, there being feveral printed accounts of them. The hall of the Great 'council (which would be a noble room, but that it wants a little proportional height) is fill'd with paintings ; cieling, fides, and ends. The fubjecls are chiefly hiftorical, relating to their own ftate : embaifies ; the inter- views of fome of their doges with popes; expeditions ; viclories; taking of particular cities; fome emblematical and pompous pieces ; as, Venice triumphant, emprefs of the Adriatick, &c. moft remarkable for its fubjedf. is that of pope Alexander the third, putting his foot on the emperor Frederick's neck. Another VENICE. another particularly taken notice of for its vaft fize, is a re- prefentation of Paradife, by Tintoret : there are a multitude of figures in it; but too much confus'd: this is over the Doge's throne, and almoft takes up that whole end of the hall. In the hall of the college, (which is a feleft body of the no- bles, who difpatch matters relating to emballies, and fome other publick affairs) and in the hall of the Council of Ten, are a great many pieces of Paolo ; and fome of them excellent- ly good : efpecially thofe in the place laft mention'd : moll of his in thefe apartments are painted on the deling. I was particularly pleas'd with two of them ; one is Jove carting down thunder upon fome figures which reprefent fo many vices : thefe are intended to fet forth the offences which come under the notice of this rigorous Council of Ten ; whofe fentences are indeed as fo many thunderbolts. Hard by, is an Angel with a book, which is to reprefent the decrees of this council. The other is Juno, who is pouring down from hea- ven, gold, jewels, crowns } and among the reft, the Ducal Corno -, a figure of a woman below is receiving them on her lap : this reprefents Venice, and the Lion of S. Mark is by her. In this palace is a little Arfenal or Armory, which has a communication with the hall of the Great Council : in this Armory are kept a number of mufquets always charg'd, and ready in cafe of any fudden tumult, or popular infurreclion, againft the nobles while they are fitting ; for them to lay hold of, and defend themfelves with. The charges are drawn and renewed every three months. Befides thefe neceffary arms, there are others, old ones, kept more for ornament than ufe* And fome curiofities of other forts : in thefirft place a Madonna of St. Luke's painting ; the whole gofpel of St. Mark wrote in Latin, in fuch a figure as to reprefent the picture of St, Mark and his Lion ; the whole is within an oval of eight inches by fix. An Adam and Eve cut in wood by Albert Durer with his penknife while he was in prifon, as they tell the ftory ; and for the fake of which he obtain'd his liberty. Here they (hew Attila's helmet, Scanderbeg's fword, a whole fuit of armour of Henry IV. of France, finely inlaid with gold* a ma- chine to light five hundred matches at once, a brafs ftatue of MorofiniT Manroceni Peloponefiaci] general in the Morea, made I in 57 58 Vii. Amelot VENICE. in honour of him while living. [The fame honour thev have now beftow'd on General Schulenburg, in the Ifle of Corfu, in his life-time.] Several ftandards taken from the Turks, horfe-tails, &c. A buft of Francifco Carrara, laft lord and tyrant of Padua, fet round with little arrows, with which he us'd to kill people for fport. This Carrara exercis'd many other cruelties and tyrannies in Padua, and did fome injuries to the Venetians : they at laft got him into their hands, and made him pay for all at once. They ftrangled him and his brother in prifon, and to go thorow-ftitch with their revenge, (for 'tis their maxim never to do it by halves), they put to death all his young children, without regard to the innocence of their infancy ; at once putting an end to them, and all apprehenfions of their future refentments. The occafion of making an armory of this apartment, was upon the difcovery of a dangerous confpiracy againft the government by Bajamonte Tiepolo, who, unable to bear the election of Peter Gradenigc, to the prejudice of his father, who had the voice of the pople, and was by them proclaimed Doge, confpired with fome of the noble families, and other diffatiffied perfons, to maffacre the Doge and the whole fenate : but the day being come foi putting this their defign in execution, there fuddenly arofe fo. terrible a ftorm, that it feem'd as if the wrath of Heaven had arm'd all nature againft the confpiratois. And,, tho' violent, ftorms do, at other times, come very fuddenly in Venice, yet their own confcioufnefs applied to themfelves the coming o£ this j which ftruck them with fuch a terror, that they imme- diately fled, and fought their fafety out of the ftate. Tha palace of the Quirini (one of the confpiratois, ftanding at the Rialt-o,) was turn'd to a flaughter-honfe ; and at S. Agofh'nc, the parifli of Bajamonte, was wrote his condemnation, on a pillar of marble ; and the memory of the confpirators brand- ed with eternal infamy. This fame confpiracy gave rife alfo to the erection of the Council of Ten, who were at firft no other than a chamber ofjuftice appointed for difcovery of the ac- complices in this horrible defign. They continue annually to commemorate the difcovery of it ; the day is the 15th of June, the feaft of S. Vito, on which day annually the fenate vifits the church of that faint; and they, together with the foreign. arnbafV VENICE. ambafTadors, are entertained by the D.oge. And as one means to prevent the effect of like defigns for the future, they have made a fort of lodge [they call it Loggietta] a pretty building of marble at the bottom of the tower of S. Mark* toll ch juft fronts the entrance into the Doge's palace : here iome of the Procurators of S. Mark always attend, as centi- nels of ftate, while the great council is fitting ; employing themfelves at the fame time in ether bufmels, relating to their office. The tower of S. Mark above-mention 'd is all built of marble ; the way up it is not by fteps, but a floping afceut along the walls ; a vacant fpace being left in the middle : by this afcent one might go up en horfeback ; or even in a chaife : the profpect from the top of it is very pleafant ; you fee not only the whole city, but have a view too of the openfea, with the little ifles ; which, with the Lido that lies towards it on one fide, and the circuit of the Terra fir ma on the other, make a moft agreeable variety. The old Procu- rati's are built of a dark-colour'd fort of marble : the new ones on the oppofite fide are of the Pietra dura of Iftria ; which is a fort of marble too : the church of S. Giminiano at one end, and that of S. Mark at the other, (as has been faid) are of marble likewife ; fo that the whole piazza may be laid to be all of marble. The pavement of the area is of brick ; it is now very much broken ; 'tis divided into compartiments by borders of Pietra dura. The church of S. Giminiano is little, but a very pretty piece of archi- tecture ; 'twas built by Sanfovino. The old Procurati's are built upon a good handfome portico that goes all along ; but the fuperftructure is almoft all windows, which are fepara- ted only by pillars : the apartments are now turned into pri- vate habitations. The new Procurati's make nine large apartments ; belonging to fo many procurators of S. Mark. Of thefe officers there was originally but one, who was call'd Procurator operis beati Marci. His office was to fuperintend the building of that church : but, as by many benefactions, the revenues of the church increas'd, it was thought fit to in- creafe the number of Procurators too : fo that, fince they have been call'd Procuratores [not operis, but] operum beati Marci. I z ' Thefe 59 6o VENICE, Thefe^Procurati's are a noble range of building, begun by Scamozzi, and finifhed by Sanfovino : they ftand on a portico of the Dorick order; the two orders above, are Ionick and Corinthian ; but the uppermoft order is not continued the whole length; a little before the return, which (aslfaid before) they make along one fide of the Piazzetta, there is only the Dorick and the Ionick, and are fo continued after the return y, this part is adom'd with a balluftrade, and ftatues all along a- top. Towards the middle of this part, there is an afcent to the publick library, which is a very handfome room j and, befides the books and manufcripts, which are its proper furniture, it is well adorn'd with very good paintings : there are feveral por- traits, hiftories, and emblematical pieces, head of philofophers, &c. by the bell Venetian, and fome other mafters, as Battifta Franco, Salviati, &c. This library was confiderably augment- ed by cardinal Beffarione, as appears by an infcription upon marble which is there in memory of it. Before we come into the library, there is a fort of lobby, or hall of entrance, well flor'd with good fculptures, antique; given to the publick by two of the Grimani, one of whom was patriarch of Aquileia, and had collected them in Rome, Greece, and other parts. There are feveral of the Roman emperors, among which there is an Auguftus with zCorona civica ; and a Pertinax, much ef- teem'd. There is an Apollo and a Pallas, larger than the life, whole figures ; and another fine one of Pallas, a buft ; a Leda ftanding; a dead gladiator; a Bacchus and Faunus ; an an- tique mafque ; Cupid ftringing a bow; Jupiter Amnion very ancient ; feveral fine baffo-relievo's, efpecially one that repre- fents a facrifice; there is another good one of a vintage. Some old Etrufcan vafes ; altars and infcriptions, fome of which are ancient Greek ones, which I think are publifh'd by Gruter. There is a pretty Ganymede and eagle, hanging from the del- ing, the Ganymede has a Phrygian bonnet, as above menti- oned. There is likewife among other paintings on the cieling a fine piece of Titian, a woman fitting, with a fcroll in her hand, and a boy by her. At the bottom of the flairs are two large figures, in white marble, by Sanfovino. He and Sca- mozzi are in great efteem at Venice ; and fo is Palladio, who has built feveral churches and palaces there. 5 What-. 2ii<7. 6"o. VENICE. Whatever outfide beauty there is either in their palaces or churches, is feldom carried beyond the Facade; though there are fome few inftances to the contrary. The churches of the Redentore and Salute were both built ex voto, for deliverance from plagues : the firft ftone of each being laid by the Doge and Patriarch, one in the year 1577, the other in 163 1 ; there is fomewhat grand in the look of each of them, efpecially that of the Salute; but it feems overcharg'd with ornaments on the outfide: there are fome very fine paint- ings within, both in the church and the facrifty; particularly fome of Titian, which were remov'd hither from the church of S. Spirito. That of the Redentore belongs to the Capucins. The front of the church of S. Mofes [for he is fainted there] is much admired by the generality of the Venetians ; but is encumber'd with extravagant ornaments, the moft of any thing I. ever faw that aims at regular architecture. Befides the faints of the New Teftament, and the numerous ones of their own kalendar, the Venetians have likewife ca- noniz'd S. Mofes (now mention'd) S. Samuel, and S. Job, and built a church to each of them : alfo to S. Daniel and S. Jeremiah. Thefe being reprefented as holy perfons, and faint implying no more, the title feems not improper, tho' not ufually given by us. In the church of S. Sebaftian, which is not a large one, and in the facrifty, there are forty pieces of painting by Paolo Ve- ronefe, befides a large one in the refectory. In this church he lies buried. The church and convent of S. Giorgio Maggiore, belonging to the Benedictine monks, are very fine. Thefe, with the gar- den, take up a whole ifland. In the church area great many paintings by Tintoret, and other good hands. The monks of this convent give out that they are poffefs'd of the body of S. Stephen the Protomartyr, which they pretend was brought firft from Jerufalem to Conftantinople, in the time of Honorius Csefar, and from thence to Venice in the year mo, by a monk, to whofe memory they have given this infcription. O/fa Petri Veneti ?nonachi, qui corpus protomartyris Byzantio hue advexit 1 no. (( The 61. 62 VENICE. " The bones of Peter monk of Venice, who brought the body " of the firft martyr hither from Conftantinople, 1 i 1 o." The upper part of the refectory, which is about twelve yards wide, is intirely taken up by that celebrated picture of Paolo Veronefe, the Marriage of Cana in Galilee: Paolo's wife is painted for the bride: himlelf, Titian, and one of the Baffans, are joining in a concert of mufick, and Paolo's brother is go- vernor of the feaft, and is rafting the wine : 'tis a very gay pleafant picture, and the architecture in the back-ground is particularly beautiful. On the great flair-cafe of the convent is painted Jacob's ladder, by a difciple of Paolo's ; and there is an infcription, which has regard both to the picture, and to the ftairs, which it adorns, ^uifquis hos gradus premis, vitia quoque calca, fie tibi ex piaculis novo more fcalam fades ad cce- lum. " Whoever thou art that treaded thefe fteps, tread alfo " under foot thy vices; fo malt thou, out of good works, raife " to tbyfelf, after a new manner, a ladder into heaven." There is a very handfome court encompafs'd with a portico. The garden of this convent is the beft in Venice. There are many fine palaces that have no garden at all belonging to them : the moft that there are, are in a part they call the Giudecca, which is feparated hy a broad canal from the reft of Venice. The churches are all, for the generality, very full of paint- ings, of the Venetian and the Lombard mailers; of which there are fo particular accounts in print, it were fuperfluous to en- large here upon that head. The Venetians are exceffively lavifh of their white wax ta- pers in their proceffions, at their night-litanies, and at the ^uaranta Hore; i. e. the expofition of the Hoft for forty hours, for the gaining of indulgences. I have feen near five hundred lighted up at once overonealtar, riling pyramid-wife, a] moft to the top of the church ; and a glorious fhew it makes. The Hoft is feen through a circular plate of cryftal fet in gold, or lilver gilt ; adorn'd richly with jewels, and rays of rilver, as . mooting from it. In fome churches, upon fuch an occalion, we have feen jewels fet in ftars, and other figures, and rays of ill ver coming from them plac'd among the candles j which made fuch a glittering, there was fcarcely any looking upon them. The folemn mufick playing, and incenfe wafting all the while, VENICE. 63 while, entertaining feveral fenfes at once, after the mod agree- able manner. One night in S. Mark's church, beiides the vaft illumination of the great altar, a row of candles went round the whole body of the great nave, and they were all lighted in a minute's time, by the means of a line of loofe flax, extended all along their wicks, which were ready prepar'd by being dipp'd in oil of turpentine. The occafion of this illumination was upon a grand proceffion of the nobles, Cittadini [citizens], and others, who walked with wax tapers in their hands, round the Piazza; while the Hod was carried under a canopy, attended by the Patriarch, and Primocerio, with the crofter: the in- cenfe wafting, fill'd the whole Piazza and all the adjacent parts. When they had taken their compafs round the Piazz:t, they went into the church to receive benediction. This pro- ceffion was on the 3d of January, to implore a bleffing for the new year. I never faw this church to fuch advantage as upon this occafion, it being fo well lighted ; which was ow- ing to the great number of candles, without which, even in the brighter! day, it is dark enough. It is generally faid, that more wax candles are fpent at fedivals and proceffions in Ve- nice than in any other city of Italy, I heard a Venetian carry it fo far once, as to fay, More than all Italy befides. But, that I know not whether I am in the right to repeat. The Primocerio, lately mention'd, is dean of. the canons of S. Mark : he and they are all of the Doge's nomination ; for the church of S. Mark owns no other jurildiction than that of the Doge, who takes, poffeffion of it, as the Pope does of S. Tohn Lateran ; and in this ceremony the Primocerio or his ^reat vicar prefents to him the red ftandard of S. Mark, Infig- num vera dominationis ; " As a mark of his real dominion over "this church." Monf. Amelot calls him the bilhop of the no- bles, as the prior of S. johnof Malta is bifhopof thofe knights. S. Pietro di Caftello is the patriarchal church, tho' that of S.. Mark be the much richer ftrudure. Both the Patriarch and Primocerio are always fons of noble Venetians. The Greek church, as to its fabrick, coniifts of three parts, The Greek which they reckon effential, the'Ex*wifia, ^'-.f^, &nd"Ayioit ayiav, church. " The body of the church, the choir, and holy of holies." In the firft the lay-men fit; in the choir are the priefts and monks of 64 VENICE. of their church; tho' fome others are like wife there fometimes; this is feparated from the body of the church only by balufters. Into the Holy of holies there do ordinarily enter only the prieft who officiates, and his affiftants : when (bangers are admitted to fee it, they are to put off" their fwords ; which we did. This is feparated from the choir by a wall, in which are three doors, over-againft the middle door, within the view of the people, ftands the chief altar, which is the altar of confecration ; on one fide of that is the altar of preparation, where the elements are fet ready ; on the other fide a table for laying the veft- ments on, to be ready for the feveral changes which there are of them. There is likewife a Veftibulum to this church, which I am told is uncommon ; and is attributed here to the particular fancy of the architect. The women in this church arefeparated from the men; fome fit in the Veftibulum, others in a gallery which is over it. The prieft who officiates in the Holyof holieshas habits not unlike thofe in theRomiih church, and fome of them very rich. Thofe in the choir, by whom the reft of thefervice is perform'd, (viz. alternate chants of pray- ers, &c.) have no particular habit, but are in the gowns they ordinarily wear. The Epiftle is chanted by a youth, in the middle of the choir : and the Gofpel, by a prieft, ftanding at the middle entrance into the Holy of holies, who afterwards in the fame place makes a difcourfe, by way of explanation of the Gofpel : his action was very graceful and juft, and not fo theatrical as we ordinarily fee among thofe of the Romifh church in their preaching. At the time of the confecration of the elements, a curtain was drawn over the entrance into the Holy of holies; I fuppofe that it might feem the more myfterious. In their confecration-fervice, the words tkto ^« IrJ to are much efteemed at Venice ; feveral of his paintings are in was a Jew! tne churches. In the Loggietta under the Campanile di S. Marco are fome pieces of him, which for colouring are ef- teemed little inferior to Titian. At the Palazzo Pifani is another much celebrated piece of Paolo Veronefe, it reprefents Darius's tent; or rather his fa- mily; for the tent itfelf is not defcrib'd in the picture. We have fome copies of it here in England. At the Palazzo Barberigo there is a ritratto of a Doge of that family, Marcus Barbadicus, Ven. Dux. 1485. And among!! a great many other excellent pieces, they fhew'd us Titian's laft work; a S. Sebaftian left unfinifh'd by him. At the Palazzo Delfino is an admirable piece of Holbein ; 'tis called Sir Thomas Moore and his Family ; but how truly 1 know not. The face is fomewhat fuller than thofe I have elfewhere feen of him by the fame author; and I think in other refpefts different from them. Befides, how the children reprefented in this VENICE. 77 this pitture fait with the account of his family, I cannot tell. In the principal part of this picture Rands the Bleffed Virgin, with the Bambino in her arms, which is done in a wonderful eafy natural attitude ; on one fide is Sir Thomas himfelf (if it be he) kneeling; by him are his two fons ; one of them kneels; the other, who is an infant, is {landing naked, fupported by his brother : on the other fide is the lady with her two daughters kneeling ; and faying their beads : the little naked boy could hardly have been outdone (if I dare fay fuch a word) by Raphael himfelf. The ornaments of the young ladies heads, and other parts of their drefs, are finifh'd as neatly as thofe in his fmalleft pieces : the fize of this is what (I think) they call half life, or rather lefs. It is painted upon board. The owner values it at 3000 fequins, or 1500 guineas. I have feen a fine drawing of it imported lately * into England, perform'd • This was by Bifchop in foot- water; wherein the likenefs of the counte- , 7Z3< nances, as well as the juftnefs of the attitudes, is very well preferv'd. The floor of the hall in this palace, is of the lighter- colour'd plaifter, and fo well laid, that it looks like one con- tinued marble. The cieling and fides of it are painted in Frefco by the Cavalier Bambini, who was there with us, and told us he perform'd it in fifteen days. There is an old rich fenator, Sacredo, who, as we were told, has the fineft collection in Venice, of paintings, drawings, fculptures, and all forts of curiofities; but either his real or pretended fcruples of ftate would not fuffer us to fee 'em. Their policy won't allow any of their nobles to have the leaft conversation with any foreign minifter; this gentleman's caution carried it fo far, that, becaufe we had convers'd with the refident of our nation, he would not converfe with us, nor fuffer us to come into his houfe. One day he was coming to fee a French painter in our neighbourhood, and was got half way up flairs ; but being told my Lord Parker's valet de chambre was there, he hurried down flairs again as if the houfe had been on fire. At*Ca. Capello Senatorio, as they call it, ('tis the houfe of *Ca. fot Signior Capello a fenator) we faw a great many curiofities in Mofaick,. painting, fculptures, antiquities, medals, cameo's, and abundance of rarities, natural and artificial; all collected by 7 8 VENICE. by himfelf. An intire urnmy, and great varity of Egyp- tian idols. A large old Roman plate in copper with the names of the Decuriones, when L. Marius Maximus, and L. Roftius Elianus were Confuls. My Lord Parker has an impreffion of the plate. A Centaur : the body of the human body, and the buttocks of the horfe part, are two pearls of thofe two forms : that which repi efents the human body, anfwers ex- treamly well, both bread and back. A nail half iron, half gold; which the gentleman told us was done by tranfmuta- tion : and alledg'd further, that iron and gold would not unite as the parts of that do. They fhew'd one formerly of the fame kind at the Great Duke's at Florence; but forbear fhewing it now : And there are thofe who think this gentleman might as well forbear fhewing his too. He had bear-fkins fpread before each of the cabinets, where the rarities were, for warmth of ftanding on thofe plaifter floors; for the Venetians (as indeed all the Italians) are very fparing of their Are. I hope this gentleman far'd no worfe with the Inquifitors offtate for his civility, than the other did for his morofenefs. At an advocate's houfe, Sieur Giovanni Battifta Rota, we fawa very fine colledion of paintings, and fome fculptnres : the principal of his pidures is a Holy Family, which he call'd a Raphael, but I believe it certainly to be of Julio Romano, his chief difciple. The Bleil'ed Virgin has a fine countenance; great fweetnefs about the mouth, and a fine hair of the head : the cheeks of the Chriil are very ruddy : the hair of him and the S. John are both yellow ; the latter a darker than the other. His felling price of it he fix'd at 600 fequins, or 300 guineas: and told us it had been valued at double that price. He has four figures equally curious in their way, by Andrea Mantegna, in Diftemper ; Chiaro Ofcuro, on a'gold ground : they are finifh'd with the utmoft neatnefs ; the draperies finely difpos'd, and notfo ftiff as fome of his things are. An- other in oil by the fame hand : 'tis the portrait of a Cardinal, with a letter direfted to him; the writing fo final! as not to be read without a glafs, unlefs it be with very good eyes in- deed. There is an admirable bafTo-relievo in white marble, by Puget, the Aflumption of the BlefTed Virgin; the draperies very finely difpos'd ; the Naked of the angels, &c. exceeding tender VENICE. tender and foft : one of the angels is defign'd much in Cor- regio's ftyle. Another Affumption, in painting, fo I venture to call the fingle perfon of the Madonna, there being (as I re- member) no angels in this piece : for 'tis done by the Cavalier Lanfranc ; and is the very fame figure with that of the Ma- donna in his famous Affumption in the church ofS. Andrea in Valle at Rome. Thefe, with abundance of other fine things he has, were part of the Duke of Mantua's collection. At a merchant's houfe, Sieur Natale Bianchi, we law as good a col- lection of pictures as in any private hand. The principal of them was a Venus and a Cupid holding a looking-glafs, by Titian. This picture is certainly the very perfection of colour- ing; efpecially the Cupid. He told us he had been ofTer'd a thoufand piftoles for it. We have feen two more of the fame defign, and by the fame author; one at the Palazzo Barberigo at Venice, and another at the Palazzo Odelkalchi at Rome; fince fold, with the reft of that fine collection, to the late Regent of France. It is very ufual with the mafters to repeat their favour- ite defigns; as Paolo Veronefe frequently did that of Europa and the bull. This merchant married his wife out of the hofpital of the Incurabile. She lings admirably well, as the gentleman who introduc'd us there, told us : but we were not fuffer'd either to hear or fee her. There'are in Venice four of thefe female hofpitals; this of the Incurabile, the Pieta, Ofpitalletto, and theMendicanti. Infants are receiv'd into thefe hofpitals ; into the Incurabile (originally deftin'd to another ufe) not without a fum given with them;, into the Pieta, and the other two, as I take it, without any. Thofe who would choofe for a wife one that has not been acquainted with the world, go to thefe places to look for 'em; and they generally take all the care they can, they fhall be as little acquainted with the world afterwards. Thofe put into the Pieta. are generally baftards. There are a prodigious num- ber of children taken care of in this hofpital : they fay they amount fometimes to at leaft fix thoufand ; and that before the erection of this charity, multitudes us'd to be found which had been thrown into the canals of the city. Every Sunday and holiday, there is a performance of mufick in the chapels of 3 thefe 79 So VENICE. thefe hofpltals, vocal and inftrumental, perform'd by the young women of the place; who are fet in a gallery above, and (tho not profefs'd) are hid from any diftinct view of thofe below, by a lattice of iron-work. The organ-parts, as well as thofe of the other inftruments, are all perform'd by the young women. They have an eunuch for their matter, and he compofes their raufick. Their performance isfurprifinglygood; and many ex- cellent voices there are among them : and there is fomewhat ilill more amufing, in that their perfons areconceal'd from view. When we were at one of thefe folemnities at the Pieta, there was perform'd the ceremony of ble'ffing the Holy Water; which is done by fprinkling fait into it, in the form of a crofs: fometimes they drop in fome oyl, and immerge a blefs'd wax- taper; repeating at the fame time fome prayer, " That it may "prevail againft all evils, witchcraft, ftorms, fire, and all *' powers of the devil, &c." As foon as the ceremony is over, the people come in fhoals, to fetch it away, in kettles, pitchers, flafks, &c. to carry it to their houfes. A fmall veflel.of it is always plac'd by their bed-fide, for the crofling themfelves at lying down, and rifing. And at fett times of the year the priefts come and blefs the whole houfe, going through all the chambers, and fprinkling the Holy Water. This ufe of the Holy Water doubtlefs arofe from the aqua hjiralis of the ancient heathens; who had it. always at the entrance into their temples and other places. The Lap- landers (I think) have a way of warming their devotion, by placing a veffel of brandy, at the entrance into their churches; and every one that goes in takes a up. The Arfenal of Venice they call three miles in compafs; but we muft allow fomewhat for their ufual exaggeration. It is large indeed, and well ftor'd with all warlike provifions. It's encompafs'd with a ftrong wall; on which are feveral little towers, where they keep guard in the night; as well to watch againft any fire or other accident within, as to prevent any furprize from abroad. Large asit is, there are buttvvo entrances into it, and thofe very near together one by water, for the vefiels to pafs in and out ; and the other by land. The land- entrance is adorn'd with marble pilafters; and ftatueson them,, by pretty good hands; but the truly noble ornaments of this entrance V E N I C E. entrance are two great antique lions of marble, brought from Athens ; under one of them is wrote this infcription. FRANCiSCUS MAUROCENUS PELOPONESIACUS EXPUGNATIS ATHENIS MARMOREA LEONUM SIMULACRA TRIUMPHALI MANU E PIR/EO DIREPTA IN PATRIAM TRANSTULIT, FUTURA VENETI LEONIS QILE fUERANT MINER WE ATTICS ORNAMENTA. Under the other, ATHENIENSIA VENETAE CLASSIS TROPH/EA. VENETI SENATUS DECRETO IN NAVALIS VEST1BULO CONSTITUTA ANNO SALUTIS MDCLXXXVII. There is a third little one, and under it only thefe two words. EX ATTICIS. The fum of thefe infcriptions is, that thefe marble lions were triumphantly brought from Athens by FrancefcoMorofini, in the year 1687, and by decree of the Venetian fenate plac'd at the entrance into their Arfenal. Within this Arfenal they build their fhips, caft all their can- non, balls and bombs, make their powder, anchors, fails, cables, and all other provifions for war: fo that 'tis a general work-houfe as well as a ware-houfe, and repofitory for them. We faw feveral fine cannons, of which fome were caft when the kings of France, Denmark, &c. [at different times] were there. All materials were got ready, and the cannon caft while the king was at dinner. The principal matter wherein the furniture of this Arfenal differs from that of other places^ of the like nature, is the famous Bucentaur and Galeaffes. In the Bucentaur the Doge goes annually to marry the fea, a well- known ceremony : this is done at the feaft of the Afcenfion ; when there is a little fort of Carnaval of about a fortnight's continuance, being a time of mafking and other diverfions. The Bucentaur has forty-two oars, four men to an oar ; there is a feat at the upper end for the Doge, others on each fide for M the 81 8a VENICE. the Council of Ten : below is a double row of benches for the Senate. On the outfide there is a border or frieze of pretty good bafib-relievo that goes round it. The Galeaffes have fifty-four oars a-piece, feven men to an oar. Thefe Ga- leaffes are perfect floating caftles ; they generally have in each of them iooo men and ioo pieces of cannon. The captains of them are call'd governors ; and are always noble Venetians. Here likewife we faw fome machines they call Camels ; which areus'd for bearing (hips over mallows, or raifing them up when bridge!' f*"" the y are funkl ° ne *was fo rais'd while we were at Venice. Engliihman. They are, I think, in ufe in Holland ; and, if fo, can be no rarity to thofe among us who are vers'd in naval affairs. But the Venetians fay, that theirs are an improvement upon thofe of the Dutch ; and much better in feveral refpects. However the Venetians may abound in fait- water, they are ill put to it through the want of frefh. All the frefh water theyhave is either what they referve from rain, or bring from the river Brenta : and this they keep in cifterns, or wells made for that purpofe.; which are generally furrounded with a handfome para- pet of marble. The water brought from the Brenta is not put directly into the well ; but by a hole, at fome diftance from it, is convey 'd into a fort of refervoir; which fas I was informed) is feparated from the well, by a bed of chalk-ftones ; through which the water is, as it were, ftrain'd, or filter'd into' the well : by which means it is freed from any filth or ill tafte which it may have contracted. And this is neceffaryj becaufe the hole above-mention'd is fo pb.c'd, as to receive a r^ood deal of the rain-water that falls upon the Campo, where°the well is plac'd. ^ Thefe wells are interfpers'd at fuitable diftances in the publick parts of the town ; for the convenience of the neighbouring inhabitants : there are two fine ones in the great court of the Doge's palace, well adorn'd with fculpture. And in the convent of the Frari there is a noble one dedicated (as in the infeription) DEO UNI ET TRINO OMNIUM BO- NORUM FONTI. '< To GOD THREE-ONE, the foun- tain of all good." The tbree Holy Perfons are exprefs'd in fculpture. It has a covering fupported with pillars, and is fomewhat like that in Vignola's architecture. There VENICE. 83 There is a grand apparatus and folemnity for the making of their famous medicinal treacle at Venice : the ingredients are expos'd to publick view for fome days before they are put together, and are likewife infpected (as we were told) by cer- tain perfons fworn to examine them. We one day faw them let out in great order, 64 feveral forts, at the entrance into an apothecary's (hop ; 32 on each hand, in regular partitions. The infpedtors are not only to examine the quality of the fe- veral drugs, but likewife to be prefent at every circumftance. of the compofition, to fee that all be fair and right. The manner of pounding them is very regular : we faw a double row of men at work with their mortars, upon the afcent of the Rialto bridge ; all keeping time as duly, as if it had been a concert of mufick. Our apothecaries difpute the point with them, and fay they can make as good here, as any that's made at Venice. I think they allow the Venetians to have fome- what the better of it, as to one of the ingredients (and I ■doubt a principal one) the vipers : but for the reft, and the procefs of the compofition, they fay we at lend equal, if not outdo them. This is eafy for them to fay; tho'I know fome, who have taken enough of both forts to perceive a confidera- ble difference, give much the preference to the Venetian. But, whatever our improvements have been with regard to the treacle manufacture, we certainly have come up with them as to glalTes, and far outdone them too, by all that I cou'd fee at Murano; which is an illand at a fmall diftancc from Venice, where the glafs-works are. There are more theatres in Venice than in any city of Italy that I have heard of : there are feven for operas, belides others s - J- ChryoCf- for comedies, &c. There were operas in three of them, when 'cf m c°' , _, . r . !>. oamuele. we were there. The theatres are the properties of feveral S. Giovanni noblemen. That of S. John Chryfoftom belongs to one of the * Paol °- Grimani-families : and the fame family has likewife two others! Moyf°.' theatres, S. Samuel, and S. John and S. Paul, the greateft in s - Fantin. Venice. The theatres take their names from the neigh- s.' Lura"or bouring churches, and tho' they are in general the pro- comedies, perty of fiich and fuch noblemen, yet ethers have boxes as their inheritance, purchas'd of the general proprietor of the theatre ; and of thefe they keep the keys themfelves. But be- M 2 fore 84 VENICE. iore you can come at your box, there is fomewhat to be paid (about is. 6d. Englifh) for entrance into the theatre. There are no open galleries, as in London, but the whole from bot- tom to top is all divided into boxes, which one with ano- ther will contain about fix perfons each. They have a fcan- dalous cuftom there, of fpitting out of the upper boxes (as well as throwing parings of apples or oranges, &c. upon the company in the pit, a practice frequent enough here,) which they do at random, without any regard where it falls ; tho' it fometimes happens upon fome of the beft quality ; who tho' they have boxes of their own, will often come into the pit, either for better feeing the company, or fometimes to be nearer the ft age, for the better hearing fome favourite fongs, Indeed as to feeing the company in the Venetian theatres there is not much entertainment in that; for, not a face is to be feen ; but the chief amufement is, to find out, through the difguife of the mafque, who fuch and fuch a one is, which thofe that are accuftomed to the place can very readily do. Thofe that make ufe of books to go along with the perfor- mance, have commonly wax-candles in their hands; which are frequently put out by favours from above. 'Tis very ufual there to fee priefts playing in the Orcheftra : the famous Vivaldi (whom they call the Prete roffo) very. well known among us by his concertoes, was a topping mam among them. They are very dextrous at managing the machinery of their operas. _ In one of them Nero prefents Tiridates" king of Armenia with a Roman {how, of which himfelf makes a part. The emperor with the emprefs appear in a triumphal chariot, drawn by an elephant. The head, trunk, and eyes of the great beaft move as if alive, and Tiridates believe he is fo. When, all of a hidden, as ibon as the emperor and emprefs are demounted and have taken their feats, the triumphal chariot is transformed into an amphitheatre, and fill'd with, fpeftators. The elephant falls all in pieces, and out of hia belly come a great number of Gladiators, arm'd with bucklers, which were fo many parts of the elephant's fides, fo that he feems in a moment to be transform'd'into a company of arm'd men, who make a fkirmiih, all in time to the mufick. We- VENICE. 85 We faw another piece of machinery. In a vail hall were represented the four elements, emblematically, in picture ; thefe opening themfelves, form'd two palaces, thofe of Love and Hymen, thefe again were transform'd into the palace [or temple] of Mars, all furrounded with weapons of war. This fcene was fo finely imagin'd, and the lights fo well difpos'd that I think, it was the mod entertaining light I ever faw upon a ftage. The Intermezzi (or intermediate performances) which they have in fome of their fmaller theatres between the acts, are very comical in their way, which is fomewhat low, not much unlike the farces we fee fometimes on our ftage. They laugh, fcold, imitate other founds, as the cracking of a whip, the rumbling of chariot wheels, and all to mulick. Thefe In- termezzi are in Recitativo and fong, as the operas are. But, inch entertainments, between the acts of an opera, fomewhat like it in the manner, but different in the fubject, feem to inter- rupt the unity of the opera itfelf ; and if they will have fuch laughing work, it ihou'd feem better at the end of the en- tertainment ; as the petite piece in France, at the end of their comedy, and the farces with us fometimes are. Their tragedy borders upon the bombaft ; and the comedy is much upon the fame fpeed in the theatre as it is on the mountebanks ftage. The principal characters, and without which no comedy will pafs among them, i. e. Harlequin*, the Dodtor, Pantalone and Covielli are now well known here. All thefe fpeak different dialects. The firff fpeaks Bergamofco, (reckon'd the worn; dialect in Italy) the 2d Bolognefe, the 3d Venetian, and thelafiNeapolitan. They have likewifeFenochio, a pimp, who fpeaks Bergamofco too. However it paffes in other parts of Italy, 'tis pretty odd that in Venice, where the no- blemen are fo jealous of their honour, they fhou'd fuffer Pan- talone -{- to be the cully of the play : for that is the name the noblemen themfelves go by. I have heard the etymology of it (whether true I cannot tell) that it comes from plant are leonem%; becaufe that wherever any place becomes fubject % Or piantarc lione. * Harlequin is alfo call'd Trufaldin, or fometimes TJiggatino, .but the charafler is the fame. Covielli is the fame as Scaramouche. •]• They perfoliate pretty nearly the very drefs of them too, as well as language. 3 to 86 let up th: t Suo mihi t'ermone ar- rexit Aures. PUut. VENICE, to them, they do there /tAnrAzrv 7mw«; plant or lion of S. Mark, the cnfign of their dominion. The Italian gravity feems to require fomewhst very comi- cal to move their mirth. And this fort of Comedy feems to hit them very well in that relped : for 'tis pleafant to fee, with what extended necks, what open mouths, and what prick'd-up earsf, they catch at the jokes, and bulls, and blunders. Ha- ving mention d ears, it puts me in mind of fomething pecu- liar in the ears of the Venetians, which in many of them are ftanchngout, and fpread, like little wings, on each fide their head; to that you fee the very hollow of their ears almofl fronting with the fare-right view of their face. This is ken fully in the. Barker!* [or Gondoliers] who have only caps and mort hair: and the fame may poffibly be cover'd under many a full-bottomed peruke. The only time for opera's at Venice is the Carnaval, or perhaps fomet.mes about the Afcenficn. Thofe time of maft- mg are the dear delight of the Venetians; and the approach of the Carnaval feems to be to them, as the approach of the iun to the Polar Nations after their half year's night. The moft common maiking drefs is a cloak, a Baout, and a white ma k : this drefs with a hat over all is the general one for both rexes, women as well as men. The Baout is a fort of hood of black hlk, which comes round the head, leavin* only an opening for the face, with a border of black filk lace which falls about the fhoulders. The white mafic comes no lower than the bottom of the nofe, the Baout covers the reft Som- times they have a whole malt painted with the natural co- lours j in the mouth-part of which the women place a ftone- nng, to hold their mafic on with, the flone glittering on the outiide, as it were to accompany the fparkfin* of their eyes. As the Carnaval advances, the drefs grows more various and whimlical : the women make themfelves nymphs and fliepherdeffes, the men fcaramouches and punchinello's with twenty other fancies, whatever firft comes uppermoft' For further variety, they fometimes change fexes- women appear in men's habits, and men in women's, and to are now and then pick'd up, to the great disappointment of the lover in thefe various difguifes they g0 , not only into affemblies within VENICE. within doors, but publickly all the city over : and during the Carnaval 'tis fo much the drefs of the feafon, that whether upon vifits, or any other occafion, they go continually in mafque. Their general rendezvous is the Piazza di S. Marco, which, large as it is, is perfectly thronged with them ; from thence they march in fhoals to theRidotto, which is not far off. Here none is to enter that fhews a human face, except their Excellencies, who keep the bank at the ballet-tables. In other places people tnay mask, but here they muji: what is a privi- lege only in other places, is here turned to an obligation ; perhaps for the better maintaining that appearance of equa- lity which is requifite to the profefs'd liberty of the place ; That is a reafon I have heard given for it : And thus a tinker, by virtue of his mafque, may come to a ballet-table, and fet a ducat with one of the princes of the people. Nothing fure can affect: the Stoick more than a nobleman behind one of thefe balTet-tables : they would feem unmoved by either good or bad fortune : but I have fometimes [ten the apathy fail a little, and the contrary difcoverit felf in fome involunta- ry contraction of the mufcles. All is tranfacted with a great deal of filence : and 1 have feen large fums won and loft with- out a word fpeaking. Generally he that keeps the bank is the winner ; and it may be reafonably concluded, without enquiry into the chances of the game, that the odds lie on the banker's fide; lince the noblemen fecure that privilege to themfelves : Tho' 'tis poffible for another to keep abank by proxy, for there are noblemen that will do it for you for itn per cent, of the winnings. The Ridotto makes a pretty odd appearance at firft fight. There are feven or eight rooms which I remember, and I believe there are more. The place is dark and filent, a 'ew glimmering tapers with a half light fhew a fet of beings, {talking along with their pale faces, which look like fo many death's heads poking out through black pouches ; fo that one would almofl: imagine himfelf in fome enchanted place, or fome region of the dead. But there are thofe to be found there who, if you have a mind, will foon clear your doubts, and let you know they are true flefh and blood. Play and intrigue are the two affairs, of the place : he that has more money than he cares for, needs only ftep afide to a ballet-table, where the noble- 87 88 VENICE. nobleman who keeps the bank will foon eafe him of his Su- perfluous load. Others, who are for forming or carrying on intrigues may without much difficulty find what they feek, and lomewhat more perhaps than what they with. With- out doors, puppet-mews, rope-dancers, mountebanks and aftrologers are bufy at work all the day long. Thefe laft dif- penfe deftinies thro' a tin trumpet plac'd at the ear of the in- quffitive patient ; who ftands trembling below on the ground, while the other is exalted on a little fort of ftage, ancf thence m an inclined porture with his mouth at the other end of the trumpet pronounces what Jhall or Jlmll not be. On JovediGrafo (the Thurfday immediately precedingLentl all Venice is perfeftly in an uproar ; the public frenzy, which from the beginning of the Carnaval has had a fort of gradual increafe, feems now to be at its utmoft height. Now we fee atboufand odd difguifes, fuch as each one's caprice fugo-efts • with diver/ions as boifterous and noify without doors, as be- fore we had feen quiet and filent within. Young fellows dri- ving bulls all about the town, along thofe narrow alleys, (for moft of their ftrccts, as I obferved above, are but fuch) hollow- ing in fuch a frantic manner as tho' they were endeavouring to make the beafts they follow as mad as themfelves. 'Tis not a very fafe curiofity to be in the way of them. Thus they hurry them to the Campo's (the more open parts of the city') where they bait them after as extravagant a manner; not ty- ing them to a ftake, but dragging them with cords ; and fome- times dragg'd by them, as the fury of the heart adds to his rtrength, while three or four great dogs are fet all at once up- on them, to catch at their ears, or any part, 'tis all one. The grand /hews are in the Piazzetta, jurt before the Doge's palace ; one of them looks more like an' execution than a di- verfion ; or 'tis (if you pleafe) a pompous piece of butchery A decollation of three bulls, which are led there in great rtate Gunners, ""rounded with the Bombardieri f, halberdiers, and a world : . of other armed attendants; drums beating, and trumpets found halberds too, if ing before them. Thofe that perfornTthe feat wT^m th matches lword ot three or four inches broad; fome affirtants hold the uv,fted about head, and others the tail of the animal; which befides keep- ing him fteady (for there is no block under) puts the parts of the VENICE. 89 the neck to a full ftretch, and with one blow the executioner fepa'rates the head from the body. The name of execution bed fuits the performance, if the account which they give be true, of the rife of this cuftom. About nine hundred years ago the patriarch of Aquileia in Friuli, with twelve of his vicars, re~ bell'd againft the ftate of Venice; they were taken and behead- ed in the Piazza di S. Marco ; and every year for fome time after, a bull and twelve hogs had their heads (truck off, for continuing the remembrance of it : but the affair of the hogs looking too much like a joke, they fome time after fubftituted in their room two more bulls; fo that now three bulls are thus facrificed every year. Others call this not a rebellion, but a hot war; in which the Venetians took the patriarch prifoner ; but gave him his liberty, on condition that he mould fend yearly to Venice, on the fame day that the victory was got, twelve wild boars, which with a bull fhould be kill'd before the general affembly, by way of facrifice. This victory was obtain'd when Angelo Partitiato was Doge, in the beginning, as I take it, of the ninth century. Another -j- entertainment is what they call the vo/a, or fly- since x ing. A boy Aides down a rope, in a flying pofture from the wrotethis, w « Campanile of S. Mark with a nofegay in his hand, to a window have been of the Doge's palace, into which he enters, prefents the nofe- acquainted ^ay to his ferenity, and up again he mounts like a Ganymede, with this en. bv the help of a cord, by which he is drawn up the fame rope ter ' a,: ™ ent , ' , 1 a 1 1 i_ 1 j 1 1 1 ln London, he came down by. Another vola they have upwards on the back of a Pegafus, (hooting off piftols in the midlt of their flight. But what to me was the moft agreeable fpectacle, was the Force of Hercules, fo call'd, but not very properly; for 'tis a performance rather of flight than ftrength : I mean the exercife of the young fellows, who build themfelves up into a kind of pyramid, as Mr. Addifon truly terms it, five or fix ftories high. That gentleman's account, which perfectly defcribes the manner of it, makes it needlefs for me to enlarge upon it. The agility wherewith they perform it, is very pleafing ; as is the variety of their pofitions, which I cannot pretend to defcribe. All their feveral changes are made without theleait diforder or confufion ; for this f'ett of felf-builders Diruit, cedificat, mutat quadrat a rotundis, N do 90 VENICE. do build, unbuild and build again, ftill varying their figure,, and all with thegreateft activity. This, when f faw it, was done before the Doge's palace ; but 'tis fometimesperform'd in a boat on the great canal. On the Sunday following, the Doge's pa- lace was become a perfeft amphitheatre for the Caccia delTau- ro, in plain Englifti a bull-baiting. The poor animal is turned loofe into the court of the palace, and an unmerciful number •OrGondo-p t^V* T ^ ^ "v ' ^ ^ ^ bdlS ' a " d lier S> . the fel- oarfceroJls *, all in a heap together, within his Serenity's courts lows that row but this is to be taken as another inftance of the Venetian li- fe Gondolas. berty) where thfi meaneft of {he peop]e m ^ ^^ ^^ ^ with their prince ; tho' it does not come up to that before-- mentioned, of the perfuming of his flair-cafes. And now the fatal day drew near, when the m-afque, and ali- us attendant diverfions were to be laid afide : for, to the Piaz- za di S. Marco now they come, not to fee bull-baiting and rope-dancing, but to be fprinkled by the prieft with allies. Un gran PaJJagto ! A great change ! as a nobleman of Bologna, expreffed himlelf to me upon the occafion. This puts me in mind of a remark I have fomewhere read or heard, faid to be made by fome remote Indian, who was at Venice, during the time of the Carnaval j that the people of Venice, about the be- ginning of the new year, are feized with a fort of phrenzy or madnefs :. which goes on ftill increafing, till a certain day, on which a grave perfon, by fprinkling a fort of powder on their head, brings 'em all to their fenfes again. Another entertainment they have, a pretty robuft one, which is not annual, nor confin'd to the Carnaval, but exhibited upon iome extraordinary occafions, as when a fovereign prince or great embaffador is there ; it is the Guerra dePugne, a pitch'd battle at fifty-cuffs between the Caftellani and Nicoloti [inhabi- c 3n Nv °l * he n diftri °^ t0 «*£ w.°, D f theatre for performing of operas. The palace ftands upon a PalL emi n n , C fi e; and u ?r T hCnCe we ^dapleafant vieC of 1 alazzo Delfino, which we had pafs'd by a little before ■th., palace was newly built, the outildings'not the fint d - on the top ; of u were many modern ftatues; a good num* tuTn'd J lk , e had , b£en P lac ' d in the garden, butCere e I turnd, and the garden fpoil'd, by the overflowing of water. We din'd at Montefelice, a little town, about ten miles from Padua ; and from the room we fat in, had a pleafan RO- R O V I G O. 10- Ro vi g o has nothing very remarkable in it. There is a dome well enough worth feeing ; 'tis of an octangular figure, and put me fomewhat in mind of the Pantheon at Rome; it has a colonade round it on the outfide, as the temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli. There is one gentleman * who is * Count faid to have a good collection of antique bufts, and inicrip- Sylveftre. tions; but he being from home, and our ftay at Rovigo be- ing too lhort to admit my going thither again, I cou'd only fee a few of the lefs confiderable ones in the portico at the entrance. At the Ave Maria, which is at 24 hours, we faw them lighting up their wax-tapers before the images of the Ma- donna in the piazza ; and, like good hufbands, as foon as that was over, which was in a minute or two, they immediately put them out again. In fome places they have evening li- tanies, which they fing at the altars, under a picture or image of the Madonna in the ftreets ; and 'tis pleafant enough to fee a parcel of children only, got together fometimes, before one of thofe altars, (girls very often) one of them, the pro- locutor, calling over the names of the faints, and the reft joining in a chorus of ora pro nobis to each. They had at Venice fplendid evening litanies at an altar under the Procuraties, which was brightly illuminated. The litanifts waited the motion of a mountebank who praclis'd juft by; and as foon as his affair was over, the bell rung for the congregation to adjourn from the piazza to the portico ; 'twas in vain to offer at it before. At Canara, fix miles fhort of Ferrara, we left the Vene- tian dominions, and enter'd the Pope's. In this road we obferv'd abundance cf dwarf-elder, and hops, there a ufelefs plant, running along the hedges; and a good many medlars as we went along the canal Biancho, which we pals'd eight miles from Rovigo. The pleafure of the road, along the banks of this canal, invited us to walk a little, and we ob- ferv'd fome plants not frequent with us; as the Cucumer Afi- ninus, Calamintba, Meliffa, and the Ricinus Amencanus, a fine plant, with a large leaf, not much unlike that of the fig, but 5 larger < J °4 F E R R A R A. larger On the poplars, that grew along thefe banks, we ob erv d fane (hoots of one year, that feem'd full three yards in length. _ In the fields we faw a good deal of what we call *r a ?n \' r S inia :, w ^ eat ' orfomewhat 'very like it ; and another gram, they call Surgo, growing on a fort of reed, and which they mix with wheat, for bread. mil^ ' w riVCr r J n u th o S partS ' WG faW a S° od man y floa ^S nulls. We pafs d the Po at a place call 'd Ponte di La»o Of! from th P 66 m fll ° rt ° f Ferraia ' t0 Whkh a ca ^l leads F E R R A R A. THE /beets of Ferrara are the R reft and wideft of any we faw in Italy: there is no danger indeed of iofllin- upon any account, for 'tis very thin :opled. A little tower, where they keep guard, fonts the end of the *rcat ftreetj which has a very good effecTr: acrofs that goes Ano- ther, ftrait and fa.r; fo that every way you have a fine view and nobody to interrupt it. In the churcl ^ s ere we fa v a great many fine paintings, of matters who are lcarce known m England, except perhaps by a few drawings; as Benve- nuto daGarofalo, Scarfelino, Monio, Panetus, Bonon Car pacio Francia, Dorfo, with feveral others. One there' is in the church of S. Maria in Vadc, painted by Carpacio, in 'the year 1508 A chapel in the church of S. Francefco, painted in frefco, by Benvenuto da Garofalo in 1524, in a tafte little inferior to Raphael himfelf. In the fame church there is a miracle of S. Anthony painted by Bonon: a rich mifer dyin? his heart was found among his money; the faint reftores the heart to its right place, and the man to life. Some fore- ihorten d figures of Bonon, on the deling of S. Maria in Vado raife themfelves the rnoft ered of any I ever faw painted on a The * Scuola della Madonna delta Grconcifione, [The fchool r 0l i r Lady of the Circumcifion] has fome excellent pieces: efpecially a Circumcifion, by Ludovico Caracci. » ' Call'dfometimes£«5 ra /«, becaufe you go up flairs to it >TU InfH™ ,l,„ I, i 'Tis F E R R A R A. Tis pity the beauties of fo fine a place as Ferrara fhou'd be enjoy'd by fo few ; but the rigour and extortion of the Papal government is affign'd as a reafon for it. There are fome good bufts of philofophers, &c. on the outfide of the Palazzo Bevelacqua. There is another palace, call'd the Diamond- Palace, 1 1 think it belongs to the fame family] fo call'd from a fort of ruftic on the outfide ; the feveral ftones projecting after the manner of diamonds. We were not within it, be- ing told there was little to be feen. Our names were here (as in other places) fent, upon our arrival, to the governor, a vice-legate of the Pope. We had from him a permiffion to ftay three days in Ferrara ; and if we wou'd then flay longer, might have our time enlarg'd by him. It was fpecify'd in the permiffion, that if any one gave a falfe name, in cafe he were noble, he fhou'd pay a hundred crowns, and be immediately banifh'd ; ifotherwife, he fhou'd pay fifty crowns, and have Tre tratte di Chorda, " Three plucks of the cord." The manner of it is thus : the arms of the offender are brought behind him, a cord is tied to his wrifts, he is fo drawn up by a pully, to the height of an ordinary houfe, thrice, and let down again. Some have their ihoulders put out, or are otherwife maim'd in the exe- cution of this fentence. Over-againft the Dome, which is a fair and large church, but not fo much adorn'd as ufual in that country, are two equeftral copper ftatues ; one is of Nicolas, marquis of Efte, Ter Pads AuSlor, as he is called in the infcription ; the other is of duke Borfo, who was (I think) of the fame family, and whole memory is held precious among the Ferrarefe. i0 S From Ferrara to Cento we went almoft all the way along the banks of the Renno [or little Rhine ;] fometimes over a ridge of a high-rais'd way : 'tis fometimes but bad tra- velling this road, either above or below 5 for 'tis a rich foil, and verifies our Englifh proverb, " Bad for the rider, " Good for th' abider." CENTO. io6 CENTO. CENTO. "^ H E town multitude * Sijuinter hunch- back'd, ban iy legg of Cento is famous for little elfe than the of paintings done by Francefco Barbieri call d Guerctn del-Cento from his fquinting : and with thefe tho poor enough in other refpefts, 'tis perfectly enrich'd As the ancient Romans gave furnames from fomething par- t.cu ar u, the perlon of the man, as Cicero, Nafo, Labio* *£ fo the modern Italians obferve the fame cuftom ; and p ople this of * Guercmo thofe of Gobbo, Storto, &c. than they are d . by he name of their family, which indeed is in a manner negated to perfonaladdreffes, and the Chriftian name only in Ifr I ' f - % r f F [ ancefbo > Gl °vanni, Thomafo, &c.l m cafe they call em by either of their real names j as for ou Guercino, he has loft both. Among the accounts we have of the pidures in Italy I have not feen any that takes notice of thofe in Cento : where there are great numbers, very well worth notice, of Guercino and his nephew Gennaro; with fome few of other celebrated mafters; but thofe of the uncle and nephew are much he mod numerous I made a lift of the chief of them , but Wou ?d be tedious to the reader to be troubled with it here Had Guemn ,n his life-time been paid for fuch of his pictures only as he has left in Cento, but the tenth part of themoney that they woud now yield, were they to be fold, he might have rais d a great eftate. We faw about twelve churches and four or five gentlemen's houfes, enrich'd by his works. In he church del Sptnto Santo, we faw a large piece with a mul- of AH SSS S » "'I 1 ',: frft f T *™»* " ^e pidure of All Saints, wh.ch he had but 20 crowns for painting • and I doubt not but in Italy itfelf 'twou'd now tak/aoo pft oles ; worfe pictures I'm fore have yielded fo much or more In one of the gentlemen's houfes [that of cavalier Chiarelli a very obliging perf n,]befides the deling of the ftair-cat we faw even or eight rooms, in fome of which the whole walls, in others the friezes above the hangings, were 4 painted P I E V E. painted by him ; fome hiftorical fubje&s; as the ftories of Ulyfles; of iEneas and Anchifes; fome out of Taffo; in others, horfes, huntings of wild beafts, kndfcapes, and other fancies. Over one of the chimneys was a Venus and Cupid, with Mars in the air, an admirable figure : thefe are mod of them, if not all, in Frefco. He work'd by the day ; and, as the cavalier told us, had but a Paul per day, [about 6d. Engliih.] Money fure was then worth more, or painting lefs, than it is now a-days. In S. Peter's church, we faw a picture of S. Fran- cis and S. Bernard in an ecftafy ; an angel in the clouds is play- ing on the violin ; and the harmony overpowers the faints. This fubjedt is pretty frequent in Italy. In the church of the Capucins out of town, to which we went along a pleafant walk, from the town-gate, is a celebrated piece ofLudovico Caracci, which they call Guercino's fludy. There is in it a gentleman and his wife, donors of the picture, recommended by a Capucin to the Bleffed Virgin : and under it is written, Exaudi preces fupplicantium te, Virgo Maria*. A canal goes from this gate of Cento to Ferrara ; which is eighteen miles. About a mile from Cento, we came to a little wall'd place, call'd Pieve. As I remember they told us, that was a city, which Cento is not; but that they went from thence to Cento to market. They were very fcrupulous here about our entrance into their famous city : the general road leads along the outfideof it ; and though we {hew'd our fede's, they wou'd not let us come in at their gate, till they had fent to confult the governor : we faw fome very good paintings in three or four of the churches. The avenues of this little city were pleafantly adorn'd with fine rows of poplars ; and the 'diftant grounds fet with vines, and mulberry-trees for the filk-worms, with great quantities of hemp, which they deal much in here- abouts ; as they do likewife in Bologna. In this road we met fometimes with a tall tree they call Sorbolo, the leaf fomewhat like that of an am ; the fruit is a little like apples, which they keep to grow mellow in hay or ftraw ; and (as a medlar) is not fit to eat till almoft rotten. * H:ar thou the petitions of us, th.it fupplicate the;, O Virg'n M.uy. Pa R A- 107 io8 RAVENNA. RAVENNA. t Page 1 01. * 'Twas fo in 'he time of Honorius. Vid. Clau- dian. I Now return to Ravenna, whofe antiquity is taken notice of by the ancient writers, and no wonder it fhou'd now be diftinguifh'd, as it is, by the epithet Antica. There was an- ciently no occafion for fuch a canal as we came by -j-, to brin°- boats up hither, for the fea warned the very walls *. The town itfelf makes no extraordinary figure, though the country be fertile about it. In the Dome is a chapel painted by Guido, the altar-piece and deling ; the former is Mofes, and the gathering the man- na ; the other is our Saviour in the clouds, with the crofs in his hand, and feveral angels about him ; among which S. Michael is particularly efteem'd. In the former piece is a head, not much unlike the famous Turbantina, of the fame author, in the fine cloyfter of S. Michael in Bofco at Bologna. Near that figure is a woman with a veffel of manna ; very genteel attitude, and fine air of the head. The church is old Gothic archi- tefture ; much Mofaick, but none, that I faw, fine ; I mean as to the defign, for 'tis rich enough : the floor is Mofaick, like- wife ; it has fuffer'd much by the fall of the old roof, a good while ago. The great door of this church is made of large planks of vine : fome writers fay there was a pair of flairs in the temple of Diana at Ephefus of the fame fort of wood ; but I don't remember that they mention the length of them : feveral of thefe planks feem'd to be 10 or 12 feet long, at leaft a foot broad, and above two inches thick. In the church ofS. Vitalis is a picture of Federico Baroccio, 1583, repre- senting the death of that faint. He was drown'd in a well; and they fhew the place in the church behind one of the al- tars; the water of that well cures all diftempers, as they tell us. The body of the church is a fort of Rotonda ; here is a great deal of old marble and Mofaick, but the Mofaick is not good. There is in the fame church a baffo-relievo of white marble, representing an antient facrifice. In the church of S. Nazarus and S. Celfus, built by Galla Piacidia, we faw her tomb, between thofe of Valentinian and Honorius, as they told us ; I fuppofe from fome traditional account,. RAVENNA. 109; account, for we faw no infcription to autborife it. Thefe tombs are great cumberfome chefts of marble, without orna- ment : the church itfeif is a little dark place ; there are fome old Mofaic figures of the apoftles, which are bad enough. The molt extraordinary thing we faw in Ravenna was the covering of a litle church, which they call the Rotonda, all of one vaft ftone ; they told us 'twas anciently the maufoleum ormonumentof Theodorick. This building confiils of aground floor, and a ftory above it : the former was heretofore a church or chapel, but long fince incapable of being us'd as fuch, by the acceffion of earth, which has been wafh'd, or fome how brought thither ; fo that the ground is now rais'd fo much, that you can't enter the door (which, according to the breadth, muft have been once of a considerable height) without Hoop- ing very low ; almoft indeed creeping on all four. Water lay within it when we faw it. The ftory above, which is imme- diately cover'd by this extraordinary roof, is now us'd as a chapel. I meafur'd the diameter of the floor, (which was the fame as meafuring the roof,) and found it about 30 feet ; it lay, as they told us, four feet more each way on the wall, which brings it to about 38 feet diameter. As to the thicknefs of it, Mr. Addifon's and MiiTon's account may both be true, though one fays 'tis 15 feet thick, and the other only 4 : for the original thicknefs of this vaft ftone, taken from the top to the level of the bafis at the edges, may be 1 5 feet ; but it is now hollowed within, and cut to a fuitable convexity with- out j fo as to be reduced to a fhell of four feet thick. It appears of a furprifing bulk ; efpecially as you ftand on The draught the top of it, on the outlide. a ' the bottom* x gives fome reprefenta- tionof it, tho'" not drawn in) fcale. Together. n ° RAVENNA. Together with its hiftory, and the account of its dimenfions they fliew thefe lines : ' S' ella e una pietra fola Dimmi tu con qual arte o ordegno Jlrano, Qua fu I' ha collocata ingegno humano : O, fe fono piu pietre unite injieme, Moflra d'una di lor le parte ejireme. " If what thou feeft be but one fingle ftone, " Tell me by what device, what ftretch of art, " By what machine, at fuch a height 'twas plac'd ; " If more than one, fay where their edges meet." ' I remember a Latin diftich, (I think 'tis infcrib'd under one of the obelifks in Rome) of which the lines above feern to be a translation. Si lapis ejl unus, die qudfuit arte levatus ; Vel,Jifunt plures, die ubi contigui. " If it's one ftone what engine cou'd they find " To raife it up ? if more, ihew where they're join'd." On the top of the convex outride flood the porphyry-tomb of Tbeodoricj but it was beaten down, as fome write, by a cannon-ball of Lewis XII. but as people of the place fay, by a thunderbolt ; which likewife made a great crack we faw in the ftone which makes the roof. The tomb was afterwards brought from thence, and fix'd in the convent-wall of the Soccolanti ; where was once the magnificent palace of that king; and 'twas therefore they chofe that fituation for it, after it had been fo hurl'd from the palace where it firft ftood. The people of Ravenna bewail the lofs of an equeftral fta- tue of copper, taken from them by thePavians: but they boaft of having had their revenge; and now fliew feveral pieces of fome brazen gates of piere'd work, hanging under the arches of a portico, in the great piazza, pretended to be part of the fpoils taken by them from the Pavians ; the reft being RAVENNA. being melted down to make a bell for one of the churches, as they told us : perhaps to give us fome greater idea of their booty than what appear'd to us ; for it fhould feenrnatural for 'em, it fuch was the cafe, to have kept in full view, what reprilals they had made upon their enemy. In the fame piazza we faw a fine copper ftatue of pope Alexander the Vllth, and two other itatues. We left Ravenna, furnifh'd with a double fede [or teftimo- nial] one to certify that we were well, the other that we were fick ; the former, on account of their fear of the plague*, to get us entrance into their cities ; and the other (it being Lent) to get us fome graffo [flefh-meat] in the inns. 'Twas neceffary in our cafe to muffle our cards right. A merry fort of formality attends the obtaining the later fede in fome places. Firft of all, a phylician affirms upon his confcience that A. B. is fo indifpos'd that he cannot, with- out great danger of his corporal health, keep Lent. Then the curate of the parifli declares, that the party, with whom he has difcours'd in perfon (tho' he has never feen him) affirms the fame upon his own confcience ; and that he has had the judg- ment of the phyfician for it. Then one of the Signior Depu- tati, upon the certificate of the two doftors, grants the licence for eating flefh-meat, excepting Friday and Saturday, unlefs the party be forc'd to it by infirmity ; and this he is to do apart from others ; is to ufe this liberty with moderation ; and with forrow that he can't, through his infirmity, keep the holy-fail: of Lent. It was not till we came to Bologna that we had this matter in its full form ; and there we met with a good natur'd doctor, who, I believe, would have given my lord a carte blanche to have inferted a troop of horfe if he had pleas'd ; and he would have affur'd that they were all fick enough. For he was fo obliging as to fend us a fede or teftimonial in form, — that Milord Parker & tutta fua famiglia [my lord Parker and his whole family] were indifpos'd, &c. without fpecifying either the names or the number ; and thought his lordfhip very fcru- pulous for propofing the fetting down all their names. _ The curate and the other officer fign'd their parts likewife, without * The plague raging at that time in France, the Italians were very cautious how ihey admitted ftrangers into their cities. . feeing li . J 1 2 CERV1A. CESENATE. feeing any of us ; for our landlord fent or carried it to them to be fignd. At Ravenna we had only the fide of the phyfician ; not any of the curate, &c. A canon of the church, who recommended the phyfician to us, told us he was a ve™ famous one ana well known thro' all the ecclefiaftical ftate Coming from Ravenna, we pafs'd through part of a great wood of pmes, the whole of which, we were told, is thirty miles long. Our way continued not above four miles in it We eat fome of the kernels of thefe pine-apples at Ravenna, Which were very good 5 in tafte not much unlike almonds. I his wood, all of it, belongs to fome convents j Benedicts and others. The next city we came to wasCervia; which I believe would all ftand within Lmcoln's-Inn-fields. It is a new city, and not quite : finifl, d within ; the out-wall is : this wall is built quite round with houfes upon it, as far as I could perceive in paffing through By an infcription over the gate, I found 'twas re- movd thither in the time of Clement XI. and his predeceffor Innocent XII. from another fituation, which was unwholefome. ■Mere they make fait. We pafs'd thro' Cefenate, a fmall town [anciently Cffifena] and a little after that we came to the famous river Rubicon, ac- cording to the modern geographers, called of the country peo- ple, Pifateho by fome ; by others, Rugone and Rigone ; and * .T a TTJ I ■ Flumecino - It ^s fo low, that we drove the iZmX Ch , a,fc *, thro 1V l and is inconfiderablc enough in itfelf , famous N. s. when °™y as b ^ng the ancient boundary between Italy and Gallia we pafs 'd it. Cifalpma ; and was not to be pafs'd by any Roman in arms, un- der the penalty of being adjudg'd an enemy to the fenate and people of Rome. It is called only amnis in a decree of the ienate which is faid to have been infcrib'd on a none, plac'd near the fide of it, but now not appearing there. Blond (as cited by Cluverius) fpeaks thus of the river, and of the infcription. Scqidtur RUBICON. "3 Sequkur magni quondam Nominis Torrens Rubicon ; Pifatel- lum nunc quifub Flaminid * Fid, Ruconem, qui fupra adcolunt, vocant ; fuitq-, dim Jlante & integrd Rep. Romand Lege prohi- bitum, ne quifpiam Armatus ilium injujfu Magiflratuum tranf- gredereter. ^ Eaq; Lex loco mot a, in quo ab initio fuit pofita, Marmore Uteris elegantiffimis etiam nunc vifitur : quern libuit heic ponere. Jufum Mandatumve P. R. Conf. Imperator, Miles, Tyro, Commihto, qui/quis es, Manipidariaeve Centurio, Turmaeve Legioniariae \ , hie Jijlito, Vexillum fmito, ?iec citra hunc cm- t, rt is . fo in nein Rubiconem Signd, Duclum, Commeatumve traducito. Cla " am ' Si quis hujus jujionis ergo adverfus praecepta ierit fece- ntve, adjudicatus ejfo hojlis P. R. ac fi contra patriam arma tulerit, penatefq; e facris penetralibus ajportaverit S.P. QJl. SANCTIO PLEBISCITE S • VE • C. There is in the long gallery of the Vatican at Rome, a copy of the infeription ; with the figure of" the (tone, to the beft of my memory. It is in one of the geographical defcriptions (which are there painted on the wall) oAhe feveral ftates and provinces of Italy. I tranferib'd it from thence, and it agrees in fubftance with this of Blond, but there are fome variations. Particularly, the two firft words are in the ablative, Jujfu Mandative. [Trib.] is between Imp. and Miles. [Annate] is after Commilito. [Arma deponitoj follows Vexillum fmito. [Exercitum] is between Duclum and Commeatum. Inftead of P. R. it is S. P. £>. R. And at the end, Ultra hos fines Arma proferre hceat Nemini. But for the reader's more diftind view, I will here add at length the tranfeript I made from that in the Vatican. There is firft writ by way of title, * ^ An von pctius JEmilia ? quoniam, Villanius: de quo infra, p. n5. S.P.^R. Armina iermlnari ". didtur Flammia." Jac. Q^ »H RUBICON. S. P. £>. R, SanSiio ad Rubiconis Pontem. And then follows, Juffii Mandative P. R. Cofi Imp. TriL Miles, Tyro, Commi- hto Annate, quifquis es, Manipulative Centurio, Turmceve Legionaries Hicjiftito, Vexillumfnito, Arma deponito, nee citra hunc Amnem Rubiconem figna, DuBum, Exercitum, Commea- tumve traducito. Siquis hajufce jufionis ergo adverfis pracepta tent Jeeentve, adjudicatus efto hops S. P.Q.R. ac fi contra fat nam arma tulerit, Penatefq; e facr. penetralib. afportave- rit. S. P. 3. R. SancJio Plebfciti. S. Ve. C. Ultra hos fines arma prof er re liceat Nemini, Leander, who gives this infeription, has thefe additions, which are not in Blond : two or three of his words are oddly penn'd [Tiron. Commiliton. Arma), inftead of Tyro, Commilito, Armate. How his are to be conftrued, I do not apprehend. Leander further adds, Blondus tabulam hanc marmoream cum infer iptione fe yidiffi ait, quod mihi fape hac eunti ac fedulo inqmrenti baud licuit, quanquam fortaffe nunc alio tranflata, aut humo tecla efije poffit, quum fuo loco motam fe vidiffe ilk dtcat. Blondus does not direclly fay Vidi, but Vifitur. Tho' in- deed his defcribing the beauty of the characters does not imply his having feen ir. Cluverius again wonders how it mould efcape Leander, when it had been feen by Blond but eighty years before; declaring that he himfelf had fsen it in the pub- lic way two miles from Caefena, hard by the brook commonly call'd Rugone; inferib'd on a moft white marble, but in letter's not very elegant. Whether that which Blond, and that which Cluverius faw, were the fame, will admit of fome doubt : for, not to infift on the quite oppofite accounts given by them of the charac- ters, one fpeaking of them in the term of Uteris elegant if imis, the other, liter is baud pulchris, (becaufe that may appear beautiful to one, which does not to another) ; there is yet a confiderable difference in the reading of each ; as will aopear by the following one of Cluverius, compar'd with the above- mention'd of Blond, 5 * IVSSV. RUBICON. "5 IVSSV . MANDATVVE . P. R. COS IMP. MILL* TVRO . COMILITO MANIPVLARIEVE . CENT. TUR MJEVE . LEGIONARIOE *. ARMAT QVISQVIS . ES . HIC . SISTITO . VE XILLUM . SINITO . NEC . CITRA HVNC. AMNEM . RVBICONEM SIGNA . ARMA . DVCTVM . CO MEATVM . EXERCITVMVE . TR ADVCITO . SI. QVIS . HVIVSCE 1VSSIONIS . ERGO . ADVERSVS * IERIT . FECERITVE . ADIVDICAT VS • ESTO. HOSTIS. P.C. \ AC. ST. CO NTRA . PATRIAM . ARMA . TVLER IT . SACROS . Q,. PENATES .E . PEN ETRALIBVS . ASPORTAVERIT. SA NCTIO . PLEBISCITI . SENATUS VE . CONSVLTI . VLTRA . HOS . FI NES.ARMA . PROFERRE . LICEAT NEMINI &£ S.P.Q.R. * Both thefe words are fo an Cluverius. * [Prtcceptd] is not in this fit is [P.C] in this, and not [P. R.] as in the others. Cluverius, tho' he took the pains to copy this infcription, does not look upon it to be genuine : he fpeaks of it in the terms of marmor adulterinum, and Barbara atq\ inepta ora- tio : and further adds, Quod fi heic pofita fuijfet lex, quum Jul. Cafar amnem cum exercitu trajiceret, helium Pompeii) Magno mot urns, certe earn refpexijfet : certe refpeSlam ei lec- tamq; retulijfent auclores, Suetonius, Plutarchus, Appianus ; qui hunc ejus trajetlum contra legem Senatus populiq; Rotttani adcurate narrarunt. And I further find, that not only Cluverius, but others too, do condemn this infcription as fpurious, and deny the Pifatello to be the Rubicon. It has, in fhort, been for many years pad the fubjecT: of an eager paper-war between the people of Cate- nate and Rimini ; the former contending for the infcription and the Pifatelio, the latter denying both ; and affirming the '--./' ancient n6 R U B I C O N. ancient Rubicon to have been another river, which is a little further on, nearer to Rimini, now call'd Lufa or Lufo. The fum of the whole controverfy may be [een in a book intitled, Arminenjis Rubicon, writ by Jacobus Villanius of Rimini, in anfwer to Scipio Claramontius of Ceefenate : each of thefe violently contending for the Rubicon, as the cities of Greece did for the birth of Homer j and each affirming that river or brook to have been the Rubicon which (of the Two in difpute) runs neareff. to their own town, the Pifatello to Cate- nate, the Lufo to Rimini. So all a traveller has for it, is this ; between Catenate and Rimini he paffes the Rubicon, but he muft not pretend to pronounce at which of the two currents it is that he paries it. Lucan defchbes the ufual condition of the Rubicon, and how it was when Casfar pafs'd it. Fonte cadit modico, parvifq; impellitur undis Puniceus Rubicon, quum fervida canduit aft as, Perq; imas ferpit valleis, & Gallica cert us Limes ab At/foniis dijlerminat arva colonis. Turn vires prabebat hyems, atque auxerat tmdas Tertia jam gravido -pluvialis Cynthia cornu, Et madidis Euri refolutce Jiatibus Alpes. Primus in obliquum fonipes opponitur amnem, Excepturus aquas ; mofli turn cetera rumpit lurba vado facileis jam fraSti jiuminis undas, Ccefar, ut adverjam J'uperato gurgite rip am Attigit, Hefperice vetitis & conjiitit arvis ; Heic ait, heic pacem, temerataq; jura relinquo, Te, Fortuna, fequor ; procul hinc jam f&dera Junto. While with hot fkies the fervent fummer glows, The Rubicon an humble river flows; Thro' lowly vales he cuts his winding way,. And rolls his ruddy waters to the fea. His bank on either fide a limit Hands, Between the Gallic and Aufonian lands. But flronger now the wint'ry torrent grows, The wetting winds had thaw'd the Alpine, fnows; And RUBICON. And Cynthia, rifing with a blunted beam, In the third circle drove her wat'ry team; A fignal fureto raife the fwellingftream, For this ; to item the rapid water's courfe, Firft plung'd amidft the flood the bolder horfe; With ftrength oppos'd againft the ftream they lead ; While to the fmoother ford the foot with eafe fucceed. The leader now had pafs'd the torrent o'er, And reach'd fair Italy's forbidden fhore ; Then rearing on the hoftile bank his bead, : Here farewel peace, and injur'd laws (he faid :) Since faith is broke, and leagues are fet afide, Henceforth, thou, goddefs Fortune, art my guide. Let fate and war the great event decide. Mr. R o w e \ 1 17 I It mould feem by Suetonius'saccount of the matter, as if there was a bridge over the Rubicon when Ca;far pafs'd it — Confecutus- coJiorteis ad Rubicone?n jiumen, qui provincial ejus Jims erat, p aulum conflitit ; ac reputaus quantum moliretur, converjus ad proximos., Edam nunc, inquit, regredi pofj'umus ; quod Ji pon- ticulum tranfienmus, omnia armis agenda, erunt " 'Tis not " yet too late to go back; but, if we once pafs this little bridge,, " every thing muft be decided by the fword." The pretended prodigy which Suetonius tells us determin'd. him to pafs it, is pleafant enough; and (if there was, indeed,, any fuch thing) was doubtlefs an artifice of Casfar himielf, to. fpirit up his army in lb critical a juncture. CunSlanti oflentum tale faSlum eji. Quidam eximid mag- nitudine & forma, in proximo fedenss repente adparuit, arun- dine canens ; ad quern audiendum, quum, prceter pa/lores, plu- rimi etiam ex Jlationibus milites concur rijjent, interque cos & JEneatorcs, raptd ab uno tuba, projiluit ad jiumen ; & ingenti' fpiritu clajjicum exorfus pertendit ad alteram ripa?n — —Tunc Caj'ar, Eatur inquit, quo deorum ojienta, & inimicorum ini- quitas vocat °jabla eft alea. " A perfon of extraordinary flature and beauty of a fudden — a little wind I did perceive, as my hand came near the hole ; but not as coming out of the hole, nor to the middle of my hand ; and it was plainly no other than the outer air forcing itfelf, about the edges of my hand, into the hole. At a gentleman's houfe [Signor Spada] we were lighted down by links into a cave ; from whence he had conveyances of air into his cellars to cool his wines j into his parlour, and other places. The defcent into the cave was narrow and pretty long ; and in that paffage there came fo ftrong a current of air, that it blew out the links ; but all ftill inwards. In the upper part of the buffet in the parlour, there was a head with a gaping mouth, like the denuncie fecrete at Venice ; over it was this infcription, Aura, qua per a'e'ris regionem libera pererrabat ; a Petro Spada hue veluti c apt ha deduBa, hofpes, tuis conatur famulari deliciis. " This breathing gale, from its free ranging through " the open region of the air, led hither as a captive by Peter " Spada, endeavours, gentlemen, to adminifter to your re- " frefhment." In the lower part was another fpiramen, to cool the wines, and whatever other liquors mould be put there. Though our climate rarely ftands in much need of coolers, yet fuch a draught of cool air, brought out of our cellars into the rooms above, in the heat of fummer, might not be difagreeable. From Terni we went on to Narni, a good pleafant road, of about feven miles, and a fertile country. When we came juft below the town, which ftands on a hill, we went out of our way a little further on, to fee the remains of what is ufually call'd Auguftus's Bridge. Writers differ in their opi- nion of it; fome will have it to have been a bridge, others an aqueduct; and poffibly it might have been both; as the Pont du Garde in Languedoc, I have been told, is. Certain it is, that, if we may judge by the prefent condition of the river, the arches are much higher than what had been neceffary to a fabrick that was intended as no other than a bridge over it ; for there is now a bridge, on which we flood to view, and where I took a fketch of thofe ruins : the arches of the modern bridge Pag, 131. ^ mm Us k. L# -i. *laau tff//f '///aM- (t/vt///? t/'^M/uj-fc/j /i/tar ( /2am. I'anJr/t/tit/it &#■ N A R N I. bridge are by many degrees lower than thofe of the antique one, and yet fufficient for any height of water. The epigram of Martial, brought in proof of its being a bridge, may per- haps not very improperly be applied to an aqueduct. Sedjam farce mihi, nee abutere, Nar/iia, Quint o ; Perpetuo liceatfic tibi ponte frui. Lib. 7. Ep. 92. Preferve my better part, and fpare my friend, So, Narni, may thy bridge for ever ftand. Mr. Addison. The ancient aqueducts, as is well known, were brought over arches, in the manner of bridges ; and from the refemblance of this to a bridge, a poet might well be juftified for calling it one. Then, the word [frui] may be thought to imply a benefit fomewhat greater than that of a way over a bridge ; and the epithet [perpetuo] frequently applied to fountains, not impro- perly be transferr'd to a conveyance of fountain-waters. The arches of this are indeed much wider than thofe common to aqueducts 5 but the remains of thofe we fee are generally over tracts of land ; this over a river j rapid ibmetimes, as mofl of the rivers of Italy are, by reafon of the fudden melting of the fnow off the mountains. This bridge, or aqueduct, has con- firmed of, I know not whether to fay, three or four arches ; but leave the reader to judge by the annexed draught. The firir. arch oniy is intire $ 'tis a wide, and very high one. This had no water under it. The fecond is ftill much wider, faid to be 170 foot, but feems never to have been fo high as the firft : and the fpring of this arch is much lower on the further than the nearer fide of it j nor do the parts of the arch itfelf feem to correipond, which would make onealmoft think that the whole bafis had funk, on which the further fide of this arch, and the nearer fide of that beyond it depended ; and thereby occafioned the ruin of both. The remaining part, I am moft inclin'd to believe, muft have been two arches more. The chief reafon for the contrary, is, that that which fliould be the bafis from whence they had fprung, has no refemblance, as to its ftructure, to the other two 5 and might therefore have poffibly been no more than a plain fquare pillar, rais'd to fupport the middle of that vaflly wide arch (as it rauft have been, if only one) S z when W J22 « Mr. Addi- for.. f Narni. U T R I C O L I. when they found it going to ruin. But, as there is no exadlccr- refpondence in thofe undoubted bafes which do remain, this ob- jection may have no force, nor hinder but that the number of the arches may have been four. It is all built of marble : the pieces are very large, and join'd without any cement, that we could difcoverj as feveral other antique buildings are. I have been the more particular in my account of this piece of anti- quity, becaufeitis called by a celebrated* writer one of the ftate- lieft ruins in Italy. Returning from hence, we clamber'd up a fteep hill into the -j- town ; which has the name of a city, but is a very poor one ; and we had in the town itfelf, a fpeci- men of the rough roads we were to enter upon afterwards, which lafted till we came near Utricoli, about eight miles from Narni. A little below the road, on the right hand, we went to fee the remains of the old Ocriculum ; where are many loofe antique fragments, and fome intire vaults now employ'd only to put fheep and cattle jn ; the walls were moftly of brick, laid in the manner which they call opus reticulatum, or net- work, as here reprefented. ^,.....^.,.^,„^, ? ..,.,.. B em g paft Utricoli, we had now an ear- t ' -*' - ' ne ft of fbme fort of approach towards Rome, ' " by paffing a bridge over the river Tiber ; tho' eces of hard ilone ble] of irregular fi- confular ways, we pafs'd over afterwards, are. As we proceeded on towards Rome, we pafs'd at fome dif- tance) by the mount Soracte of Horace. Vides ut alia ftet nive candidum SoraSie. L. i. od. ix. See how Soracle's mountain fcarce fuftains Her hoary load ! It appear'd (as I remember) of a roundifh figure, as the Rekin in Shropfhire, and had then on its white cloathingof fnow. The modern Italians, who are for fainting every thing, call it S. M A R I N O. V E L I T R I. itS.Orefte. Monf.Dacier fays 'tis nowcall'd Monte San-Sylveftro, and, by corruption, Monte Trefto. There is indeed fome con- vent or hermitage at the top of it, call'd S. Sylveftro j but the mount itfelf is called S. Orefte, and is fo mark'd in the map of the Campagna of Rome. About two miles (as they call'em, but they are but little ones), mort of Rome, we pafs'd the Tiber again, over thePonte Molle, anciently Pons Milvius, famous for the defeat of Maxentius by Conftantine. When we enter'd the city, the poftilion durft not fet us down at the inn ; but brought us ftrait to the doga- na> or cuftom-houfe, to have our baggage fearch'd for contra- band goods, or prohibited books ; but they gave us little trouble ; a fmall gratuity made the fearch very eafy. We were pefter'd much more with crowds of valets, wrapp'd up in their cloaks ; who are always there ready to offer their fervice to ftrangers upon their arrival. We made but a mort ft ay at Rome this time; taking the ufual method of travellers, in going to fee Naples, before the weather grew hot ; and accordingly fet out for that place the 17th of March, N.S. and lay that night at Piperno, the Priver- num of the ancients ; about fifty miles from Rome. At the end of the firft poft, we pafs'd through an arch of an old aqueduct, which we law extended a great way, but with fome interruptions. At S. Marino, the fecond poft, we faw in a church a picture of Guercin del Cento, the Flaying of S. Bartholomew, the beft colouring and greateft ftyle of any of his works that I remem- ber to have feen. At Velitri, the next poft, a fmall city, Auguftus Casfar is faid to have been born : The people of that neighbourhood in Suetonius's days thought fo, tenetq ; vicinitatem opinio tanquam & ibi natus fit ; and at this day the inhabitants fay the fame thing : but Suetonius fays, he was born at Rome, tho' nurs'd in- deed near Velitri. From hence we pafs'd thro' Cifterna to Sermo- netta. About Sermonetta there is a great deal of fulphur We pafs'd thro' a brook that was all over white with it, and fmelt very ftrong of it. Thence to Piperno, which are two pofts, we had the moft horrid road for a chaife that, I think, can be pafs'd : great *33 *34 * We trave'l'd slong the fide c-f thefe fens. S E T I A. great rough ftones, and as bad in every refpecl as a way can be that is paffable at all. In the firft of thofe pofts, between Ser- monetta and Cafe Nuove, they lhew, what they fay are the re- mains of the three taverns, where S. Paul's friends met him. On the hill above, is the city Setia ;in whofe neighbourhood grew the vinum Setinum, formerly fo famous. 'Tis call'd by Martial pendula Setia, from its fituation near the brow of the hill. Pendula Pontinos qu Whofe Crown Antiphates the Tyrant wore. 5 Garth,' 'Tis into this Port between Mote and Cajeta that Homer brings Ulyjfes and his Friends, Odyjf. x. where they were fo frighted with that gigantick Breed of Man-Eaters the robuft Licftrygons, itpSriy,ot Acciq-puyoy$$ f. IJ9 vx. ayfy&rciy soikotss cthhd Tiydai. ihu S~\ yvycuka. Whofe Queen they found, vaft, as a Mountain's Top. T 2 * Oppidum Formis, Hormiaa ante diclum ut exijtimavere, antiqua Lseftryeonum [tits, Pliny 1. 3 . c. f. "The Town Fermit, before that Hermit, (as fome have thought) " the ancient Seat of the Ltfirygons." It was call'd Hermit, according to Strabe ■ Qopuiau **«»*;*& *™jicc,'Ow(ai>L t ySpi m ,l& to ivopiicv. << FermU was built by a Lacmian "to Od (Te fT"' " S bdng aU eXCelIent Station for Shi P s " *&• P°P^ -Anneut. + Thefe Ltfirygons were Sicilians, according to Thucydides, L. 6. Mr. Fete to in- other Part of the fame Odyjfey, fays, « It is evident that the Ltfirygons alfo inhabited For- ;' mit, a City of Campania near Cajeta. Thus Howe, zii. 3. orf. 17. " JS.W, vetufto nobilh ab Lamo— ■—* ' " AuSere ab illo ducit Originem " 6)ui Fori'.iiarum mmnia dicitur " Vrinceps — "VncUr" [to obviate jthe Difficulty of their being cll'd Sicilians by fome, by others Ca m : fanjans,) " anfwers That they were originally Sicilians, as appears from «, C 8 Flumtna, Symahus, Tenas, !««, Laeftrygonii ««£ en SL, Le0 n t ini. 7 And why ™>g«t °ot thefe ^W«. or a Colony of them, leave S/Xo fettle in Judy, as his „ J dent the ?*„„,», had done, and fix* in Cercyra I BoZrt's Opinion concern ngths Nation ,, not to be neglefted : The Words Ltfliygens andLeemJs are of the Sim- P A ht n 7 u \ PWi ^ Namc - L «» 'ircam, that is, a during Lion TlTh render dhteraly by rte L«rf» Word Umthmm, and both denote the Savage and Leonine Difpoftion of this People. The Word Lamus is alfo of Fhccnhian Extiad StT or ^"T* f T fie l 3 »r° ttr V" [«»»^*i»in -**«*. Which is a B anch'of thePte' ■**■* or rather the New Phoenician itfelf, is render'd by Celms exp:X l„ and 1 fo exaftly anfwers ,n Signification both to Ltfirigen and *J^F»?SKV»,J » AT« fr*»/« Lamis m-»» t um m txtmbat alvo. Mr, P*/*, ubifapm. 140 Mol a'; I will not trouble the Reader with any more Greek ; but per- haps the Account Mr. Tope has given us (from Homer) of this People, and his Defcription of this Tort or Bay may not be difagreeable. Six Days and Nights a doubtful Courfc we fteer, v The next, proud Lamos' {lately Tow'rs appear, V» And Lteftrigonids Gates arife diftinft in Air, j Within a long Recefs a Bay there lies, Edg'd round with Cliffs, high pointing to the Skies ; The jutting Shores that fwell on either fide Contract its Mouth, and break the ruining Tide. Our eager Sailors feize the fair Retreat, And bound within the Port their crowded Fleet ; For here retir'd the finking Billows fleepi And fmiling Calmnefs filver'd o'er the Deep.- I only in the Bay refus'd to moor, And fix'd, without, rny Haulfers to the Shore.- From thence we climb' d a Point, whofe airy Brow Commands the Profpect of the Plains below : No Tracks of Beafts, or Signs of Men we found, But fmoaky Volumes rolling from the Ground. Two with our Herald thither we command, With Speed to learn what Men poffefs'd the Land. They went, and kept the Wheel's fmooth-beaten Road Which to the City drew the Mountain -Wood. When lo! they met, bcfide a cryftal Spring, The Daughter of Antiphates the King; She to Artacia's filver Streams came down, ( Art acids Streams alone fupply the Town : ) The Damfel they approach, and ask'd what Race- The People were ? who Monarch of the Place ? With Joy the Maid th' unwary Strangers heard, And fhew'd them where the royal Dome appear'd. They went ; but as they ent'ring faw the Queen Of Size enormous, and terrific Mien j (Not yielding to fome bulky Mountain's Height) A fudden Horror (truck their aking Sight, Swift M O L A. 1^1 Swift at her Call her Husband fcour'd away To wreak his Hunger on the deftin'd Prey ; One for his Food the raging Glutton flew, But two rufh'd out, and to the Navy flew. Balk'd of his Prey, the yelling Monftcr flics, And fills the City with his hideous Cries -, A ghaftly Band of Giants hear the Roar, And pouring down the Mountains, crowd the Shore. fragments they rend from off the craggy Brow, And dafh the Ruins on the Ships below : The crackling Veflels burft; hoarfe Groans arifc, And mingled Horrors echo to the Skies. The Men, like Filh, they {tuck upon the Plood, And cram'd their filthy. Throats with human Food. . It appears by Cluverius that this Port, between Formia and Cajeta, was the Port certainly underftood for that into which Ho- mer brings Ulyffes and his Companions ; and takes notice of the exact as well as elegant Defcription he gives us of the Bay, and of the high Promontory above it. And as a further Confirmation that this was the Port defcrib'd by Homer., he mentions the old Authors as all along underftanding it as fuch ; and inftances par^ ticulady in Ovid, who feigns ^/Eneas to have found * Neri- * soClave- tius Macareus,- one of Ulyjfes's Companions, in the Cajetan ™™ ter t r " s Shore. The Paffage of Cluverius is as follows. Ex hifce Verbis \_fc. Homeri] fat is diferte patet, now\ ad ipfum La:ltrygonum oppidum Formias adpulfum finxife Ulyffis Homcrum, fed in Cajetanum Portum, quern graphice atque eleganter defcribit -, una cum o-kottiyj ira.nrx7\oi(r feparated parts feem to the Eye to be much of the fame Y)i-°LJ" r ftance at the Top as they are at the Bottom, which may be a- bout four Foot, or fomewhat more ; and the Height about that of an ordinary Steeple. The Indentures (if I may fo call them) of the feparated parts, tho J very irregular, feem to have an exact Correfpondence with each other ; and have a Rough- nefs of fuch a fort, as to exclude all Sufpicion of Art. We can hardly fay the fame of what they call the Impreffion of a Man's Hand in the Rock : the Story they relate of it is, That one, who was told that the Rock was thus miraculoufly fepa- rated at our Saviour's Death, declared his giving no Credit to it ; and at the fame time, with an Air of Contempt, ftruck the Palm of his Hand againft the Rock : the Stone immediately foftened, and received the Imprellion they now fhew : which 1 has 144 C A.J E T A- lias fome Refcmblancc of a Hand, but a very rude one. Wfc went along this Cleft, in a continual Defcent, for about 40 or 50 Yards ; at the end whereof is a pretty little' Oratory dr'-Cha- pel, frequently vifited by Pilgrims : this is-juft by the Sea-fide, From the Spaccata, they led us a long and tirefome walk up to the Caftle, to fee a Sight which prov'd very little worth the Pains that brought us thither. 'Twas the Skeleton of Charles of Bourbon, Conftable of France, who ferv'd under the Emperor Charles V. at the Siege of Rome, and was mot as he was fcaling * not uu a- the Walls. -He -is fet upright* in a Cafe, as we fee Skele- b" S ' /"■/'""' tons in Surgeons Houfes ; only drefs'd up in a tawdry Suit 5 with Hat and Sword. He had been new clotlid with Plufh juft before we faw him. In the Dome they ihew'd an antique Vafe of white Marble j with very fine Baffo Relievoes, reprefenting the Birth of Bacchus .• ■fTrUJleffes,&c Mercury delivers the New-born Infant to a Nymph, Bacchantes^ ""'Bacchus and Satyrs attending. There is an Iilfcription of the Name of 'the Workman, % A AnifiN A0HNAIO2 EETOIHSE*. It is now ufed as a Pont. In the fame Church they fhcw'd us a Pillar, which they fay came from Solomon's, Temple ; but, unluckily, in one part of the Baffo Relievo that is on it, there happens to be fomewhat that looks very much like a Repre- fentation of Turgatory. On the Summit of a high round Hill minds the 'Sepulchral Monument of Munatms Tlanctts •, of a round Figure, as fe- veral other ancient Maufolad** are. There are feveral Prints of it extant. In our Return from Cajeta there were fome Fryars going thither; and had left Orders at Mo la, for the People at the Inn to get 'em fomewhat to eat againft their Return -, — ■ un- Spirito Santo cofi: " a Holy Ghoft, or fo ;" when they wou'd not name a Pidgeon, it being Lent-timc. At Mola, we drank Wine of the Ccecuban Hills, once fo famous ; 'twas good Wine, but might at lcafl: be equall'd in other Parts of Italy : not fwect, as molt of the Italian Wines are ; 'twas red. The upon ■If. Salpion the Athenian made [it]. ** As the MaufiUum Augufti in Rime; the Moles Mrl»n», now Caftle of S. Angelo.; the Monument ot Metella Crujji near Rome, &c. GARIGLIANO. The Cascubus Ager [according to the ancient geographers] was between Formia? and Fundi. Martial teftifies much the fame : Ccecuba Fundanis generofa coqiiuntur * Amyclis, Vitis & in media nata palude viret. L. 13. ep. 1 1 C. Rich Csecubans from mellowing Fundi flow, And blooming vines amidft the marihes grow. From Mola, we went along the fea-fide on the Appian way, to the river Garigliano, which we pafs'd in a ferry : part of our road was thro' olive groves. About eight miles from Mola, a little fhort of this river, we faw the ruins of the ancient Minturnse. There if ill remains part of an old amphitheatre and aqueduct. Garigliano was anciently call'd Liris : 'tis mention'd by Horace as a very ftill and quiet ft ream : — — Rura quce Liris quiet a Mordet aqua, taciturmis amnis. L. i. od. 31. ■ tbofe rich fields where Liris runs With quiet ftreams, and wanton play; The fmootheft of the ocean's fons, And gently eats his eafy way. Creech. It was not fo very quiet a water when we pafs'd it; having been made more rapid by the rains. It was near this river, that the firft battle was fought between the Romans and the Tarentines; when Pyrrhus the Grecian king came to the af- fiftance of the latter, with an army of elephants as well as men. A little further was the ancient Sinuefla, where Horace rejoie'd fo much at the meeting of his friends. HS Phtius & Farias Sinuejfce VirgiliuCque Occumuit : anima, quales neque candidiores 'Terra tulit, neque quels me Jit devinSlior alter. O, qui complexus ! &c. Sat. r. 1. 1. * Some editions read Ahenis [fc. Fundanis] taking no notice of Amydre, which was not far from Fundi. u At 146 CAPUA. _ _ _. _ At Sinueffa on our way Plotius, Virgil, Varius too attends, All worthy men, and my obliging friends. Oh, how did we embrace ! Creech. This neighbourhood abounded with white fnak.es in Ovid's time : — — Niveifque frequens Sinueffa colubrh. The parts of the country on this fide Rome are more frequent- ly mention'd by ancient writers than any other j moft of their fummer retirements lying this way. After we had pafs'd the Garigliano, we travell'd over a pleafant plain to S. Agatha ; and there we again found the Ap- pian way ; but it left the prefent road a little after we had pafs'd S. Agatha, and fo we loft it for a time; tho' we had it again fometimes between that and Capua, particularly in a village called Cafcaro, CAPUA. N'EW Capua, through which the road from Rome to Naples lies, is a fmall place ; the emperor was making a new fortification there when we pafs'd it. They had at that time 400 foldiers there, they have fometimes had 1500. There is but one inn in the town, and that a very forry one. Old Capua, about two miles diftant from the new, has feve- ral ancient ruins, among which the chief is the amphitheatre; which feems by its Arena*, that ftill fhews the original di- menfions within, to have been larger than that of Verona : by the three columns of the outermoft row, which ftill remain intire, with the arches between them, one might alfo trace the line of the outfide, fo as to determine the dimenlions of that too. Thefe columns are of the Doric order. There is a head [or face] in the crown of each arch, but the fculpture * The oyal fpace or court within the nmphitheatre, which the feats for the fpefl.itors immediately encompafs'd. The ground of this court was covered withfand, u foak up the Wood of the gladiators, of the lions, and other wild beafts, that were e.ypefed there to combat. Vid. Kennel's and Goodwin i Rom. Antiquities. is CAPUA. is not of a very good tafte. Part of the entablature above the arch does ftill remain. The outride of this amphitheatre is of ftone, but the for- nices [the vaults] within, are of brick. We got upon fome of the higheft parts, and from thence bad a mod agreeable profpecl of that fide of the Campania Felix, the moft fertile and delicious fpot in all Italy ; but this fertility induc'd fo much lazinefs and luxury, as in fine prov'd the ruin of the inha- bitants. Inftances of each are deliver'd in fuch ftrong terms by fome of the ancient writers, that the recital of a few of them perhaps may not be unacceptable. Lucius Florus gives a moft agreeable account of the whole Campania, and clofes all with that of Capua. Omnium non modo Italia, fed toto qrbe pulcherrima Com- panies plaga eft. Nihil moHius ccelo : denique bis jloribus ver- n at : nihil uberius Jblo : ideo liber i Cererifque cert amen dici- tur : nihil hofpitalius mart : hie illi nobiles portus, Cajeta, Mifenus, & tepentes fontibus Baia; : Lucrinus & Avernus qucedam maris oftia. Hie ami£li -vitibus montes, Gaurus, Fa- lernus, MaJJicus, & pulcherrimus omnium Vefuvius, JEtncei ignis imitator. Urbes ad mare Formice, Cumce, Puteoli, Nea- polis, Herculaneum Pompeii, & ipfa caput urbium Capua, quon- dam inter trei maximal, Romam Carthaginemq; numerata. Lib. i. c. 16- " Campania is the mod beautiful region, not only of Italy, but even of the whole world. Nothing more mild and gentle than its air ; it blooms with flowers twice a year : nothing more fertile than its foil; where Ceres and Bacchus contend for victory : nothing more hoipitable than its ihores j here are thole noble harbours, Cajeta, Mifenus, and Baja* fteaming with its hot baths ; and thofe inlets of the fea, Lucrinus and Avernus. Here are mountains cloathed with vines, Gaurus, Falernus, Mafficus, and the moft pleafant of all, Vefuvius, imitating /Etna's fire. Here are mari^ time cities, Formias, Cumse, Puteoli, Naples, Herculaneum Pompeii, and Capua, the head of all, formerly rank'd with Rome and Carthage, in reckoning up the three greateft cities." It is call'd by Livy, urbs maxima opulentifjimaque Italia, — •— " the greateft and moft wealthy city of Italy j"- Jed magnas U 2 Mat H7 148 CAPUA. Mas opes Jiatim fequuta eft luxuria atque fuperbia ; — " but pride " and luxury immediately followed thefe great riches." And then we find that this luxury made them a prey to their ene- mies the Carthaginians : Campanos haud dubie magis nimio luxu fluentibus rebus, mollitidque fud, quam virtute hoftium viSlos ejje. Liv. 1. 7. " The Campanians were doubtlefs overcome more " by the exceffive and uninterrupted flow of their profperity, ** and their own foftnefs, than by the valour of their enemies." Indeed in this place, fo furnifh'd with a profufion of every thing that ferves for pleafure and delight, luxury feems to have fix'd its feat of empire, to be here irrefiftible, and to fubdue all that come within its bounds : for, as it ruin'd the Capuans, fo, in a very fhort time, it wrought their revenge upon their conqueror Hannibal, and vanquifh'd them too ; in weakening him fo, that after he had deftroy'd the Capuans, he became himfelf a prey to the Romans ; as appears by Valerius Maxi- mus, 1. 9. c. 1. At Campana luxuries perqaam utilis civitati noftrce fait ; inviclum enim armis Hannibalem illecebris fuis vin- cendian Romano militi tribuit. Ilia vigilantiftimum ducem, ilia exercitum acerrimum, dapibus largis, abundanti vino, unguento- rum fragantid, veneris ufu lafciviore, ad fomnum & delicias evocavit : ac turn demum fracla & contufa Punka feritas eft, quum Seplafia ei & Albana caftra efj'e caperunt. — " But the lux- " ury of Campania was of lingular fervice to our city ; its eri- " chantments contributed more to the fubduing of Hannibal " than our arms ; and deliver'd up that general, who was be- " fore unconquerable, as an eafy prey to the Roman foldiery. " 'Twas this, that with the fulnefs of feafting, the excefs of " wine, the fragrancy of ointments, and the too free ufe of " women, call'd off that moft vigilant commander, that vi- " gorous and pulhing army, to (loth and voluptuoufnefs. — And " then it was that the Punick fiercenefs was blunted and " broken, when the Seplafian and Alban ftreets became their " camps." — Thefe were two famous ftreets in Capua, where the unguentarii [fellers of ointments] and other affifters of pleafures had their refidence. Tully in his orations ad populum contra Rullum, fpeaks pretty much to the fame purpofe. But what has been offer'd, is perhaps more than enough. We had now about a dozen miles through Avcrfa, a little city, to Naples. NAPLES. H9 NAPLES. THE road is fhamefully bad that leads to this great and fine city ; but it is remote from its fovereign, always govern'd. by viceroys, who perhaps have not thought the care of the roads to be of fo much confequence, as to deferve their no- tice. The moil pleafant fituation of Naples, with its large and delightful bay, have been fo fully defcribed by authors extant among us, that it wou'd be fuperfluous for me to attempt it. The temperate winters they have, make it the moft agreeable place in the world topafs that feafon in ; and as the Italians in gene- ral are not fond of coming near a fire, fo here they have put it out of their power to do it ; for there is not fo much as a fire- place in many houfes, except only in the kitchen : if a day colder than ordinary happen, a caldano *, with a little charcoal * A veffel in it, is all they have to air the room. nTT^T They have green peafe all winter, and none in the fummer, terns atfide- as we were told; occafioned by the too great heat in that tables here. ^ feafon ; though it be very much alleviated by the pleafant fea- are f metfme* breezes. We faw the little children, boys and girls, play- of copper, ing before the houfes, quite naked, in the month of March. J° metimes of The city of Naples, taking it in genera], I think may be call'd the fineft in Italy.' If in Rome, and perhaps fome other cities, there are finer, and more magnificent pnlaces-, ei- ther the narrownefs of the flreets, or the comparative mean- nefs of the private houfes, takes off from the general beauty of thole places; but in Naples the beauty of the buildings is in a great meafure equal and uniform : the flreets are large, ftrait, and excellently well pav'd with flat (tones about 18 in- ches fquare ; and to prevent horfes flipping on them, they are pick'd or tool'd fo as to give them a roughnefs. The tops of the houfes are flat, fo as that you may walk on them, and there receive the benefit of the evening breezes ; they are co- ver'd with a hard plafter. The Strada di Toledo is the prin- cipal flreet, and is the nobleft 1 ever faw, and of a great length as well as breadth. The plenty of provifions, and frequency of people makes it as chearful, as the magnificence ol the buildings makes it noble. When you come to the end of it, a turn- ing 3 150 NAPLES. jng on the left-hand brings you to the viceroy's palace, which ftands, in refpect of the ftreet laft mention'd, as the Banqueting- Houfe does in refpec"t of the Strand at London ; and the fea lies on the left-hand, partly as the Thames does here. This palace is the architecture of the cavalier Fontana, three ftories in height, and of a great length. By it ftands a coloffal ftatue of Jupiter, antique, but with modern reparations ; it was brought from an ancient temple near Cumaz, which bears the name of the Tempio del Gigante [the temple of the giant,] from this gigantic ftatue. The public granaries are very large ; and fo they had need, if what I was told be true, that the magiftrates, intendants of the grain, are oblig'd to furnifh to the markets 60 tboufand bufhels of corn every week. This is the way in moft of the cities of Italy ; the corn is all brought into the public granaries, and is thence iffued out to the markets ; and of this his Holi- nefs makes ■* pretty good hand at Rome, between the advance- of the price above what it is taken in at, and the fmallnefs of the meafure. Not far from the public granaries is the univerfity, which they call the Studii Nuovi, a large and handfome ftruifture; but it- remains, as it has done for along time, unfinifh'd. The churches and convents of Naples are excefiively rich, and indeed very fine. The profufion of marble we fee in them is fcarcely to be imagin'd ; but the difpofition of it in the in- cruftations is not fo well judg'd, as it is in the churches of Rome : Their putting fuch variety of gay colours together, and info many figures, made the finery appear to me as border^ ing a little upon the tawdry. The dome is exceedingly rich in all forts of ornaments of fculpture, painting, and gilding, as well as marble; Among the fiatues there is one in copper of S. Gennaro [or Januarius], the principal patron or proteclor of their city : whofe body is buried in a beautiful clwpel un- der the choir : the floor of this chapel is finely inlaid, the roof and all is of marble, bafib relievo's, &c. with ftatues of faints in the wall in niches. Near the great altar above, are two fine pillars of jafper, their pedeftals of verd' antique; [;a curious green marble]. Behind the great altar is a ftatue of fine marble, of cardinal Caraffa, once archbi{hop } kneel- ing : NAPLES. :.>i ing ; 'twas he that built the chapel under the choir. But the fineft part cf all this noble church is the chapel dedicated to S. Gennaro, where are kept, with the higheff. veneration, the head and blood of that faint, with which they Chew, two days in the year, their famous miracle of liquifying the congealed blood at the approach of the head. This chapel, (which they call ii Teforo, the Treafure* from the precious relicks that are in it) has a marble facade towards the church, of a good tafte of architecture ; in the middle is a mod curious brafs gate of pierc'dwork, which'they fay cofr 36 thoufand crowns. The marble pavement and incruftations of this chapel are mod rich, the pillars, &c. of the Corinthian order. There are 19 cop- per ftatues in niches, of fo many former patrons of their city, which they fay coft 4 thoufand crowns apiece. But what gave me the greateft pleafure was the cupola, painted moft admi- rably by the cavalier Lanfranc, and the corners under it by Dominichino. The church of S. Paolo Maggiore ftands where was once a * They mean temple of Caftor and Pollux ; part of which Hill remains, and "° more tllan ferves as a portico to the prefent church. The pillars are very «p r6ac hj„ E noble and magnificent, of the Corinthian order, fluted : befides "ofPeter.the thofe which are now ftanding, there are huge pieces of other ", °" .5 ^'. broken ones on the ground. At the entrance into the prefent "tor and Pol- church are two difiichs, one on each fide the door *. " , lux tum - " bled down; " and altho' " this intire " conquett " was Peter's, " yet he al- " lowed Paul " to (hare in Audit velfurdus Pollux cum C aft ore Pet rum Nee mora : pracipiti marmore uterque rait. Tyndarides vox miffaferit, palma Integra Petri eft Dividit at tecum, Paule, trophaa libens-\. The cielingof this church is finely painted by the cavalier ^^""'ue Maffimis, and in the facrifty are two fine performances in frefco odd then, of F. Solimea, commonly call'd Solymini, done in the year 1680. that the „ . , tt 1 1 r-in >iii n church mould He was, when we were there [172 1 j, elteem d the compleatelt g0 (as it does) mailer in Italy. One of thefe reprefents the ftory of Simon % St. Paul's Magus ; the other, the converfion of S. Paul. We went to name °" y ' pay a vilit to this excellent mailer, and found him very civil and obliging ; notwithftanding fome reports we had heard of him to the contrary : he drefles as an ecclefiaftick, which is very fre- 152 NAPLES. frequent there with thofe that are not in orders. Befides other fmaller pieces of his work, he fhew'd us a large one he was doing for prince Eugene, the ftory of Cephalus and Aurora, extremely beautiful. As I remember, 'tis that part of the ftory where Aurora is taking up Cephalus into heaven, which fhe is faid to have done, when all other means, fhe had us'd to induce him to a breach of his conjugal vow to Procris, had prov'd in- effectual. In one church of the Theatins we faw a large and fine piece in frefco, done by his mafter .Luca Giordano, Anno 1684, Chrift driving out the money-changers. In the fame church is a fine piece of Pietro da Cortona, the death of a faint, with angels above ; and another of S. Francis by Guido, for which, they fay, they gave 400 piftols. Thefe poor fathers ! who have no poffeflions, fubfift all upon charity, and yet mull afk none, to buy pictures as fuch a rate ! The other ornaments in their church befpeak their poverty juft as much as this of painting does. In another church belonging to the fame or- der ['tis that of S. Apoftoli,] is a fine piece in frefco by Lan- franc, the pool of Bethefda, and the cieling all painted by the fame mafter: the other paintings in this church by Guido, So- lymini, &c. the architecture of the church itfelf, the mofaic, fculpture, and other ornaments, intitleit to a place among the firft in Naples. The facrifty of S. Domenico Maggiore is painted by Solimea: we faw the defign of it in the prior's apartment at the Car- thufians convent of S. Martino : in a gallery above, which goes round the facrifty, are depofited, in chefts, the bodies of the kings of Naples, and others of the royal families. And in the fame place they fhew the body of a fecretary, who had been ftrangled wrongfully; they have given him burial here, as endeavouring by this honourable lodgment of his bones, to make fome amends for his injurious death. This con- vent is very rich in plate for facred ufes : they fhew'd us in the repofitory a large crucifix of filver, ftatues of faints, as big as the life, and candlefticks of 7 or 8 foot high, all of the fame metal. But what is more precious to them than fil- ter, is a man-ufcript of S. Tbo. Aquinas, which they keep with great veneration. In one of the chapels in the church they fhew the crucifix, which fpoke to S. Thomas, Bene fcripjijli de me, NAPLES. me, Thoma ; " Thou haft written well concerning me, Tho- mas :" and in the convent they (hew his cell, which is held as facred. The church it felf is very large, and extremely rich in all forts of ornaments. Among the pictures tliev have a Madonna of Raphael. The church of S. Sanfeverino is finely adorn'd, the cielin» painted by Berifario. The marble pavement has a troublefome iort of finery, coats of arms in baflb relievo, rifing above it, and fome of them to a considerable height : an even floor, however curious, might have been unobferved, but in regard to your own fafety, you are obliged to take notice of the ornaments of this. In one of the chapels is a beautiful monument of three youths, of the Sanfeverini family, who were all poifoned at the fame time by their uncle, in order to get their eftate : there are ftatues of them with infcriptions, declaring the manner of their death. There is a cloyfter, painted in frejeo by Zingaro, the fubjedt is the ftory of S. Benedict's miracles. In the church of Mount Olivet is a chapel, in the middle of which there is a fine reprefentation in terra cotta, [clay burnt] of a dead Chrift, with feveral figures about him, the Maries, and fome of the difciples, which are all ritratts of real perfons as big as the life ; Alphonfo II. king of Naples, and his fon are two of them : Sannazarius, and his friend Pontanus, are a Jofeph and a Nicodemus. Tho' the reprefentation of this fub- jedt be in a manner quite uncommon, yet it is fo natural, the figures being plac'd, not in the ufual way of ftatues, on pedeft- als, but upon the floor, in fuch a place and difpofition, as you might expect real perfons to be, that one would at firft fight even take them to be fuch. They are the work of Modavino of Modena. There is in this church, befides feveral other good pictures, a S. Chriftopher finely painted by Solymini. And in the refectory, the gathering of Manna; and Mary Magdalene warning our Saviour's feet, of the fchool of Raphael. The church of S. Catherina a Formello has the cieling finely painted by Louigi Gaigi : and the Cupola by Paolo de Mattheis, a good matter of this time, but the vaineft I think that ever I faw. The fpeciary, where they keep their drugs and me- dicines for the ufe of the convent, is well worth feeing: they have a fine collection of natural curiofnies ; among the reft, X they l 5l } *54 NAPLES. they (hew what they call mandrakes, reprefenting both fexes. They {hew likewife'the head of the famous Thomas Anielo, commonly called Maffanello, in plaifter. The church, hofpital, and monaftery of the Annunciata, are vaftly rich in poffeffions, fome of which are in terra fir ma, others in gabeils [or impofitions] on feveral commodities, brought into Naples; which amount to a very large annual re- venue. Here they have what they call a Pieta for the reception of infants, baftards or others, of which they take in great numbers, fometimes twenty in one night. 'Tis faid that there are belong- ing to this hofpital 2500 nurfes (an incredible number) to take care of fuch as are brought in. When they are grown up, fuch of the girls as choofe a monaftick life, become nuns ; thofe that would rather have hufbands, have a portion given them, fome 100, fome 200 ducats, to marry them, and at fome times they are fet out to be view'd ; we once faw 'em ftanding for that purpofe, putting up their \\>% noble plainnefs, which is truly majeftick : but their yet greater- beauty is often in the court they are built about, which is form'd by a portico fupported by marble pillars (many of them an- tique) and this fometimes repeated in the ftory above. What' enlivens them extremely, is, the great number of antique fta- tues and baffo-relievo's, with the addition of fountains, which are either in the court, or in the view of it. The apartments within are noble, and the rooms well proportion'd : ftate and- grandeur they feem chiefly to aim at, to which they are con- tent that convenience fhall fometimes give way. In the greateft palaces, the fait a of rooms one within another, with the vifto thro' the marble door-cafes, is very magnificent. As many of them are princes, fo they diftribute their apartments accor- dingly ; into anti-chambers for waiting* chambers of audi-. ence, (for they affeft the higheft names) with bnldachinos, or canopies of ftate ; and thefe lead to the private apartment of the prince himfelf, i. e. one for form fake on the ftate-floor; for their ufual abode is either at the top or the bottom of the* houfe; the former being their winter, the latter their fummer- apartment. Thefe.ktter have an oppearancepeculiarly a roofing to us 3 , 197 i 9 8 R O ME, p w h at I have faid in general of the churches in Rome, I ought to add fomewhat more particular ; but am perfectly at a lofs where to begin, or how to avoid being too long upon fo copious a fubject. S. Peter's alone has had volumes written upon it in folio. By the prints of that noble temple, frequent among us, it is very well feen after what manner it is built : and that, for its general form, our S. Paul's agrees pretty much with it. It were to be wilh'd that our's had fuch an approach as that has, than which nothing can be more grand or magnificent. As the church ftands near the place where was once the cirque of Nero, fo fome will have it that the obelifk, now in the middle of the circular theatre which is form'd by that flately colonnade, is erected in the fame place where it flood in Nero's ROME. S. P E T E R's. Nero's time ; but that cannot be ; for, befides that (if the maps of old Rome are true) the very topography contradicts it, it is likewife exprefly faid in one of the infcriptions, that it is > priori fede avuffus — " remov'd from its former file." This obelifk is faid to have been the firft that was brought from Egypt to Rome by the order of Julius Csefar : it was firft plac'd in the Circus Maximus, and dedicated (as appears by one of the in- fcriptions) to Auguftus and Tiberius Caviars ; afterwards remov'd by Nero to his circus on the Vatican mount. It was plac'd where it is by order of Sixtus Quintus, under the direction of the cavalier Fontana. Jt is fupported by four lions of copper, couching on the four corners of the pedeftal, or bafis, which bears them. The two great fountains, in the fame area, are a noble and moft pleafant ornament, and do fenfibly refrefh the air of the place in the hot weather. The baluftrade over the colonnade is fill'd quite round with ftatues, many of them very good : ftatues are likewife con- tinued over the portico, which, going up from the colonnade in a ftrait line on each hand, forms a fquare court immediately before the afcent into the church. There is one objection I think may be made to the colonnade -, that it feems crouded with thofe vaft pillars which ftand fo thick : but fome give this reafon for its having been built fo : that it was intended to fup- port anoiher building which was to have gone round above, and fhould have been for the conclave. The church itfelf was built by feveral popes, and the form of it changed by feveral architects. Bramante made the firft defign ; his model is now in the Vatican palace ; it is fo large that we went into feveral parts of it. After his death, the defign was alter'd by Raphael Urbin, Sangallo, and others : it was brought to the form of the Greek crofs by Mich. Angelo, prolong'd afterwards to the form of the Latin crofs by the cavalier Fontana, Carlo Maderna, and others, who ftill con- tinued the order of Mich. Angelo. The Facade, and noble portico, which we crofs immediately before we enter the church, was made by Carlo Maderna. Nothing can be more beauti- ful of the kind than this portico -, 'tis extended along the whole breadth of the church in the manner of a gallery. At each, end. 205 2o6 ROME. S. PETE R's. end of It there is a loggietta, adorn' d , as the portico itfelf is, with a curiousmarblepavement, andcielingof ftucco gilt. The Colon- na-gallery, with its lobbies, doth fo far refemble this portico, with its loggietta's, that one may imagine the architect of that to have taken his hint from this. In a further fpace, beyond the loggietta's, are two ftatues on horfeback, larger than the life. That at one end was done by cavalier Bernini, in white marble : 'tis Conftantine the Great looking up towards a crofs, which is form'd in bas-relief upon the fide of the portico, accompanied with the famous infcription, In hoc jigno vinces. " In this " fign thou (halt overcome." The other was then only inftucco, in order to be executed in marble by a young Florentine, [Au- guftino] who, by what we faw in the ftucco, gave great profpect of a noble performance. It reprefents Charles the Great. I mould have been counted by the Romans as great a heretick in architecture as in religion, had I there fpoke all I thought of the front of that admirable fabrick. The parts are certainly very beautiful, grand and noble, the pillars being nine foot in diameter; ' but the whole is terminated by a ftrait line at top, which (with- out any prejudice in favour of my own country) I cannot think has fo good an effect as the agreeable variety, which is given by the turrets at each end, and the pediment rifing in the middle, of the front of S. Paul's. The prints indeed give us a prof- peel of two fide cupola's (together with the great one in the middle) which appear in the draught to break the line; but, in the fabrick itfelf, are not feen at all as you approach it, being in reality caft back at a good diftance from the end of it, fo that the fight of them is intercepted, and quite hid from the eye, by the afore-mention'd ftrait line of the top of the portico, which terminates the whole view, without any other break, than ' what the ftatues upon it give. Bernini feem'd of opinion, that fomething was wanting, and would have erected a tower at each corner, of which my lord Parker has the defign : but lb heavy he defign'd it, and (I think) had begun to make it, that 'twas thought it would have ruin'd the portico ; and fome ftick not to lay, that that was his intent out of envy to the former architect; fo he was oblig'd to defift; and fome of the pillars intended for that, were employed in the porticoes of the two twin-churches in the Piazza del Popolo. They have a ftory, ROME. S. PETE R's. 207 a ftory, that with fome of his fuperftrudures he did occafion a crack in the cupola ; which himfelf, by another ftroke of his envy, was the accidental occafion of having difcover'd to the pope, [Innocent X.] who till that time was ignorant of it. The itory I heard is thus : at the four angles, under the great cu- pola, are the ftatues of four faints, made by as many feveral iculptors. Bernini made one ; another is that of S. Veronica, with the handkerchief, on which the form of our Saviour's countenance was faid to have been imprinted : this was made by Francefco Mochi ; the handkerchief and drapery are very light, and feem as if moved by the air. When the ftatues were fet up, the pope came to fee them, and feveral fculptors along with him : when they came to that of S. Veronica, Bernini had a mind to carp a little, and looking at the drapery, afk'd, whence comes all this wind ? Mochi furpriz'd him with a fud- den anfwer, " From the crack you made in the cupola." Bernini, ftruck with this unexpected reply, and fearing the con- fequences of the difcovery, ftaid not to take leave, but imme- diately fled, and got into France, where he continued for fome time ; till atlaft he found means, thro' Donna Olympia, fifter- in-law, and great favourite of his holinefs, to make his peace. He made her his friend, by prefenting her with a model in fi!- ver of the fine fountain which he propos'd to make, and at his return did execute, in the Piazza Navona. I (hall hereafter take more particular notice of this fountain. The reader will pardon this digreffion : I was infenfibly led into it. The upper end of this church ftands to the well. There is no feparation of that part for a choir, as is in S. Paul's, and other cathedrals with us. A fide-chapel is appropriated to that pur- pofe there -, fo that at firft entrance there is a fpacious open view continued quite to the further end of the church ; where, aloft, againft the wall, is plac'd the chair of S. Peter, iupported by the four doctors of the Latin church *, and a glory above, with « s. Jerom, angels, &c. all of copper, a moft coftly and noble ornamenr. s - Auguftin, But the real chair of S. Peter they pretend is within that which g| Gregory.' you fee. The pavilion of the great altar, which ftands under the cupola, is in my mind the fineft ornament in the whole church; there is fomething in it fo uncommon, and at once 6 fo 2o8 ROME. S.PETER's. fo magnificent. It is the work of Bernini : 'tis fupported by four wreath'd pillars of Corinthian brafs, which was taken by Urban VIII. from off the portico of the Pantheon ; they are adorned with feftoons and foliage of the fame metal, difpcs'd in a mod agreeable manner. There are little angels of a fine defign, playing among the vines, and fome bees (in allufion to the Barberini arms) are feen upon the leaves about them. Thefe pillars are by much the mo ft finely adorn'd of any I ever favv. Whether the hint might be taken from Raphael's car- tone of the beautiful gate of the temple, I know not ; but they put me much in mind of the pillars in that. They fay that under this altar are depofited half the bodies of S. Peter and S. Paul, and that the other half, of them is elfe- where ; either at the old Bafilica of S. Paul without the city, or that of S. John Lateran ; I am not fure which. Above a hundred lamps are continually burning before this depofitum, which is encompafs'd with a marble baluftrade. Not far from this altar is an image in copper of S. Peter fitting, in the a&ion of bleffing ; his right foot is extended, and is confidera- bly worn by people's killing it, and rubbing beads againft it. On the feaft-day of that faint, we faw this image drefs'd out in fontificalibus, with a canopy of ftate over head, and lamps burning before it : the people incelTantly coming in fhoals to kifs the foot, rubbing their beads, and fome their foreheads on it. Some will have this image to have been an old one of Jupiter, turn'd into a S. Peter, led perhaps to that guefs, by fome little refemblance which they might find between the countenance of this, and fome which have been done to repre- fent Jupiter. I know they have that trick fometimes of changing an antique idol into a modern one: (forlqueftion much whether the ancient images were more idols, than fome of the prefent ones are :) but this I am inclined to believe was origi- nally intended for what it is ; for I take it to be a caft from a marble one, which; with feveral others that were formerly or- naments of the old Bafilica, ferves now to adorn thofe grotta's or chapels under the new one. That ftatue, they fay, was made by order of Conftantine the Great, who built the old church ; and it has enough of the coarfe tafte of thofe times. The 209 ROME. S. P E T E R's, The great cupola is all wrought in Mofaic, as are the four angles immediately under it. Within the cupola itfe'if are the twelve apofties in feveral compardments, which fill the tirft great circle that goes round the cupola: above them, angels in like manner; and at the top of a lantern, which rifes above the cupola, is rcprefented the Padre Etemo, as an old man with his hands extended, perform'd in Mofaic too, after a very grand defign of Anniba'le Caracci. In the four angles under, are re- p.refented the four evangelifts, of a great and noble defign. Some of the fide-cupola's are alfo wrought in Mofaic, after fine defigns of Pietro da Cortona, and others. They are going on with the reft. We went up into one, where they were performing the Mofaic, after the defign of Carlo Maratti. The cartone upon which the defign was painted, was (as I re- member) about the height of eight or nine foot, and the breadth more. It was plac'd at fome diftance behind the performer, parallel to the wall upon which it was to be copied in Mofaic. Mofaic, hmv The manner whereof is thus. The artift fits upon a bench, with P erform ' d > bits of marble, and of factitious ftones, feemingly of a glafiy fubftance, of feveral colours, lying on his right hand. The bits of ftone are mod of them fquare, and larger or fmaller, according to the diftance at which the work is to be viewed. They are of all colours, in the feveral degradations of them, from the lighteft to the darkeft, and lie forted in feveral boxes, like thofe for the letters in a printing-houfe. On his left hand lie the feveral tools neceflary for his work ; and, among the reft, there is fix'd upon the bench a piece of iron, with an edge on the upper fide, like the end of a chizel, with the edge upward, on which, with a hammer, he forms the bits, when there is oc- cafion, to a proper fhape or fize, as the work requires. In the morning he fpreads upon the wall a layer of plaifter or cement of fuch breadth as can be cover'd with work in a day: and then, being feated upon his bench, and turning back from time to time to look upon the picture, choofes out bits of fuitable colours, and flicks them in the cement, and with them forms the like colours as he fees in the pidure he copies. The ce- ment, in which the bits of ftone are ftuck, is made of marble, and Tiburtine ftone, pounded to powder, together with lime, and work'd up with oil. As we went up we obferved fome E e mortars, 2io ROME, S.PETE R' s. mortars, where the pilgrims work out their penances, in pound- ing marble to make cement for the Mofaic. So that if the church was erected by the piety, 'tis in fome meafure adorned by the fins of the people. A great part of this church is already incrufted with marble, and the reft is to be fo : they are daily adding to its ornaments; tho'it is at prefent without dcubt the fineft temple in the world. 'Twere endlefs to enter into par- ticulars of the ftatues, paintings, Mofaics, and baffo-relievo's, which every part of it abounds with, together with the noble fepulchral monuments of feveral popes, and that of Chriftina queen of Sweden, all adorn'd with curious fculpture. The body of that queen is depofited within a plain tomb in a grotta under the church, though her monument be above. Every time one goes thither, frefh beauties prefent themfelves ; and the entertainment you find there is fo far from giving fatiety, that the pleafure ftill increafes, upon every view of that noble pile. The ornaments are fo many, and fo curious, they ftrike you with fuch amazement at firft entrance, and the eye is fo call'd off from one beauty to another, that 'tis fome time be- fore you can fix upon any in particular. One pretty odd thing is obfervable among the baffo-relievo's on the brazen gates, at the entrance. There are fome figures of heathen ftory intermix'd with the foliage ; Ganymede and the eagle, Jupiter and Leda, &c. Whether they were taken from fome heathen temple, I know not; but certainly they had been more fuitable there. The illumination on the outfide of this church on the eve of S. Peter, is indeed a glorious fight; they place the lights in fuch a manner, all along the feveral members of the architec- ture, on the outfide, and make them fo to conform with them, that the whole has (efpecially at fome diftance) the appear- ance of a perfedt temple of fire. In the fubterraneous church are feveral beautiful chapels finely adorn'd with marble, &c. The whole is low, and has not fo fpacious a look as that under S. Paul's, London. They made us take notice of an infcription in a paffage be- low, which leads to the grotto-chapels. Hue mulieribus ingredi non licet, nifi unico die Lima poft Pen- Ucojlen, quo vicijjim viri ingredi prohibentur. $ui fecusfaxmt, anathema f unto, " ^ nto ROME. PANTHEON. *' Into this place women are not allow'd to enter, except " only on Monday in Whitfun-week ; on which day, men in ™ their turn are forbid to go in.— Whoever fliall do contrary, " let them be anathema." Here are fix'd up in the walls, and other places, leveral orna- ments of the old church, Mofaics, baffo-relievo's, old ftatues, &c. the real tombs of popes, and other great perfons, whofe honorary ones are above. There are likewife many modern ornaments of diverfe forts. Among others of lefs note, we here obferved four of the fined pieces of Mofaic that I think I ever faw : they are after defigns of Andrea SacchJ, who was mailer to Carlo Maratti. The fubje&s are, Chrift carrying the crofs, S. Andrew kneeling before the crofs he was going to be crucified on, the Death of S. Longinus, and the Inventio Cruris, {the finding the crofs.] Added to the noblenefs of the defign, the colouring in thefe is the mellowed and molt harmonious of any I have feen, in that fort of work. Thefe adorn four cha- pels in the fubterraneous church. Above, is the Bark of Gi- otto (fo call'd from its being perform'd after his defign), a piece of Mofaic, remarkable for its antiquity, being near four hundred years old; nor does it want intriniick merit ; efpeci- ally in the figures, which are rather of a better defign than the veffcl is. The people there find a myftery in this fluctuat- ing vefiel, that 'tis an emblem of the church, tofs'd and fhock'd with the waves of perfecution, but not funk by them. This was one of the ornaments of the old Bafilica, but is now fix'd aloft within the new portico, jufi: facing you as you come out of the church. As S. Peter's is inconteftably the nobleft piece of modern p ant heon architecture in Italy, fo the Pantheon muft as certainly be al- low'd to be the fincft and moft perfect remain of the antique; tho' it has undergone fome alterations fince its firft building The portico at the entrance, fupported by fixteen granite pil- lars of near five foot diameter, befides pilafters, of the Corin- thian order, each of one piece, makes a moft magnificent ap- pearance. Upon the frieze, in the front, is an infcription m very large capitals, fhewing by whom it was built : 2U E e 2 M. 212 ROME. PANTHEON. M. AGRIPPA L.F. CONSUL TERTIUM FECIT. " Marcus Agrippa, the fon of Lucius, built it, when conful " the third time." And in two large niches, on each fide the entrance into the temple, are faid to have been two coloffal ftatues, one of the fame Agrippa, the other of Anguftus Creiar, his father-in-law. The Corinthian brafs, with which this portico was cover'd, was taken away by * pope Urban VIII. to make the pillars at S. Peter's above-mention'd, and a cannon which is kept in the caftle of S. Angelo; as that which cover'd the roof of the temple itfelf had been before by one of the emperors, and car- ried to Conftantinople. The round figure of the temple has given it the common name it now goes by, the Rotonda. There was formerly (they fay) an afcent of nine fleps to the entrance of the por- tico from without, but you rather defcend to it now. The fame has happen'd to moil of the old buildings, by the accefs of earth, (through the concurrence of feveral accidents) which has rais'd mod: of the ground of New Rome confiderably higher than that of the Old ; which is evidently feen by Tra- jan's pillar, the amphitheatre, the arches of Conftantine, and Septimius Severus ; particularly the laft, where the earth may have been rais'd more than ordinary by the ruins of the old Capitol.; which did ftand, as the new Capitol likewife now does, upon the hill juft above this arch. But Clement XI. remov'd fome of the 'earth in the piazza before the Pantheon, and thereby brought again to view fome of the fteps of the portico. The cafe or frame [/o Jiipito as they cajl it] for the brazen gate which leads out of the portico into the temple, is, as they affirm, all of one intire piece of marble : and by the ftrideit obfervation I could make of it from the ground, it does appear to hive been fo, before the accidental crack, we ■fee, was made in one part of it. It is about twenty-four foot wide, and mull be at leaft twice i'o much in height. There are no windows in the temple ; all the light comes in at a * They tell you ftill in Rome what was then faid upon the occafion, Barlmhi faiiunt barbara [the Barbarini do barbarous things.] But Cure whoever fees the pavilion in S PeterV, will hardly with the metal in its old place again. . circular R O M E. P A N T H E O N. 2i ; circular opening in the crown of the vault, which has a fine e re V/hale s belly. J ' Chrift crucify'di Chrift baptifed. Chrift carrying the crofs. Chrift betray'd. Chrift in the LimbusT 'atrmH. One of thefe rods, it not both, is curi oufly inlaid ■with ivory. Above thefe, are as many prophets, painted by the mo ft eminent mafters of thefe times, Sebaftian Concha and others. The great brazen gates at the principal entrance, they fay were taken from the temple of Saturn in the Campo Vaccine The Tribuna at the upper end is wrought in Mofaic, between four and five hundred years old. In this church they fhew Aaron's rod which budded, and that of Mofes wherewith he divided the Red Sea : and other relicks, equally authentick, relating to perfons or ftories in the New Teftament. There are many large, and fome good paintings in the church; and in the facrifty is a fine Annunciation in oil, by Mich. Angelo; and a Crucifixion by the fame mafter, faid to be that of which they tell the famous ftory ; but there are fe- veral others of which they fay the fame, which I have before taken notice of. I n ROME. S.JOHN L A T E R A N. In a room within the facrifly is a cartone of Raphael in black chalk, a Madonna and Chrift, and S. John. In a cloifter adjoining they fhew'd us pope Joan's chair, or one, which, according to the old flory, pope Joan gave oc- caiion for. "Tis a pierc'd chair of rojfo antico (not porphyry as fome call it), the pierc'd part is in this form [J: ; there is another hard by of the fame fort ; and our antiquary affur'd us they were no other than old chairs belonging to Caracalla's baths, of which there were. 600 in number; and that we Pro- tectants took occaficn to make that ftory from an old wooden chair, which is near the other, where he faid the new popes are now feated, when they come to take pofTeffion of S, John Lateran, foon. after their election. A little further he fhew'd us a porphyry pillar, on which they fay the cock perch'd, by whofe crowing S. Peter was put in mind of his having denied his mafter. There is a brafs cock on the top of it ; and he told us the common people do believe, that that is the very fame individual cock, turn'd into brafs. Beyond that, they fhew a porphyry ftone, on which the foldiers caft lots for our Saviour's garment. Near thefe was a perfedl tree of a crofs carried by a pilgrim ex voto, or for penance, from Bohemia to Rome, the year be- fore we faw it there : I believe I faw the fame crofs, and him who drag'd it thither, upon the road in Lombardy. See page 29. _ There is an altar of marble, on which 'tis faid an unbeliev- ing prieft prefuming to confeerate the hoft, the wafer flipt from betwen his fingers, forc'd its way thro' the marble table, and ftuck to one of the little pillars underneath, and there left its impreffion in the colour of blood. At a corner of the fame cloifter they fhew the porphyry fepulchre of S. Helena ; a very large one, with a cover like that of S. Conftantia in the temple of Bacchus. It has baffo relievo's on it, men on horfeback, and other ornaments. Before the ufual [though not principal] entrance into this church, Hands the higheft obelifk in Rome, all infcrib'd with hieroglyphicks, which are faid (but with what certainty I know not) to iignify the praifes of king Ramefes. It was confecrated Ff to 217 2 i8 ROME. SCALASANTA. to the fun in Egypt, and brought to Rome from Alexandria, where it had lain fome time, by Conftantine the Great, Tre- centorum remigum impofitus navi miranda vaftitatis : " Upon a " veffel of a wonderful vaft fize, with three hundred oars.'' It was then plac'd in the Circus Maximus, out of whofe ruins it was dug in feveral pieces, was join'd together, and fet up where it is by the cavalier Fontana, at the command of SixtusQuintus, to whom modern Rome owes a great fhare of its glory. Near adjoining is the baptiftery of Conftantine, antique, be- ing the place where they fay that emperor was baptiz'd by S. Sylvefter : it was part of the old Lateran palace ; 'tis now finely adorn'd with paintings, which are chiefly the ftory of Conftan- tine: two by Carlo Marat in frefcoj others above, within the cupola which is over the font, by his mafter Andrea Sacchi, in oil; fome by the cavalier Camaffei, and other hands, finely perVorm'd. Befides the ufual fubje&s, as the apparition of the crofs, the battle and triumph, &c. there is one, where feveral bifhops of thofe times prefer'd accufations againft one another to Conftantine, who would not look into any of them, but order'd them all to be burnt before him. The font-part of the baptiftery is furrounded by eight large pillars of porphyry, with as many of white marble over them, which fupport the cupola above. Here we faw a Jew bap- tis'd. Near this church is a large hofpital, and a palace; both built by Sixtus Quintus :. the laft he did not live to finiih, at leaft act: to inhabit. Scala Santa. A little further is the Scala Santa; they fay that thefe ■ ffl-e.- the very ftairs our Saviour went up, to be examined before Pontius Pilate ; and that they were brought from Pilate's pa- lace at Jerufalem by Helena the emprefs, mother of Conftan- tine. They are of marble, and have a fort of channel, which feems to have been cut all along the top of each, parallel to the edge, for it does not feem fuch as could have been made purely by wearing. None are to go up thefe ftairs, but upon Their knees, faying a Pater Nqfter, and Ave Maria at every ftep ; for the doing of which they obtain a r'emiffion of a third part of their fins. We faw a pilgrim creeping up them, and exercifing the difcipline on his back all the way. ° The ROME. S. MARIA MAGGIORE. 219 The form of begging in the neighbourhood of thefe flairs is, that you'll give them a bajoc *, and they'll go up the Scala • Ten of them S/* IHEKC SDOllt antaforyou. _ 6d.E»glifh. At the top of the ftairs is a Crucifixion, the BlefTed Virgin and S. John, painted by Cigoli ; and beyond that is the Sanffium SanSlorum, a repofitory of reliques. Parallel to the afcent of thefe holy ftairs, are two pair more on each fide, which lead up into a portico or gallery, common to them all. Thefe were made by Sixtus V. for the conveniency of the devout, and there is a handfome front of the Doric order to the whole. The church of S. Maria Maggiore -f-had the place of its foun- s. Maria dation pointed out by a miracle, according to the ftory they Maggiore. tell, which is this ; That two rich devotees, who had a mind t The to build a church to the honour of the Bleffed Virgin, befought ^Jf^"^? her to fignify to them her pleafure where fhe would have it caufe 'tis the built. It was revealed to them that they fhould build it i n largeft of any fuch a place as they fhould find next morning cover'd with fnow. churches de- This accordingly they found on the Efquiline Mount the fifth dicatedtothe day of Auguft j fo to work they went, and built the church lrsln "^' there : and annually on that day, they ftill gather leaves of fome fmall white flowers, and ftrew them on the top of the church, and about it, in memory of the miraculous appoint- ment. This church is very noble and magnificent, as well as ancient. The back front, which makes much the greateft appearance, is modern : the portico at the principal entrance is ancient, fupported by antique pillars, and is adorn'd with old Mofaic work. The pillars which are on each fide the great nave are t There are antique t ; there are feveral fmaller, which fupport tabernacles, {oi ' l y °? them j > 1 r 1 1 1 , r ■ i-i taken from towards the upper end or the church ; thefe are antique like- thetempleof wife, of beautiful colours, and rare kinds of marble j particu- JunoRegina. larly the cipolino, fo called from the refemblance of its veins to an onion cut acrofs : and another, tho' only black and white, Angularly priz'd for the exquifite delicacy of thefe colours (if fuch they may be call'd) and the beauty of the veins. This fort is called the hero e biancho degli antichi, [the black and white of the ancients], and properly, for there is no quarry of it now known j nor indeed is there any of the ftone in Rome, that I could hear of, befides what is here, and in the church of F f 2 S. 220 * Their palm is about nine inches Eng- lifli. ROME. S. MARIA M A G G I O R E. S. Cascilia, which I fhall after take notice of. It is mention'd by Pliny, as what was very fcarce in his time. This ftone is valued at 15 piftoles per palm *. For pillars of porpbyrv fup- port the tabernacle of the great altar. There are two pil- lars of marmo di porta fanta, a beautiful reddifh bi.-wn, with tranfparent veins. They have no other name for this marble, it being very fcarce, and call it fo becaufe the frame of the fort a fanta [holy gate] at St. Peter's church is of the lame fort. We faw a vaft pillar of the fame kind, unpolifh'd, of fifteen foot and a half diameter ; it lay near the Tiber, and very likely in the fame place where it was firft landed, for it would be no fmall piece of work to remove it. At one end is engraved, Imp. Ccef. Domitiani Aug. Germanici, N. III. This no doubt was intended with others for fome great work of that emperor, which poffibly might be prevented by his death. Indeed among all the remains of antiquity fcarce any thing I think is more entertaining than the columns, of an incredible variety of marbles, (if by that general name we may call all thofe beautiful ftones), which were collected from all parts of the univerfe, when the Roman empire was in its fulleft extent and greateft glory. Of thefe columns, befides fuch as have been erected in later fabricks, many others are kept in the palaces, without being put to any other ufe, than fometimes to fupport bufts at the top of them, and often without any thing at all, as being efteem'd a fufficient fight themfelves ; as particularly at the Palazzo Bracciano. The two great ornaments of this church, are the magnifi- cent chapels of Sixtus V. and Paulus V. on each fide the church, oppofite to each other. Thefe chapels perfectly match one another, and are both furprifingly fine. The cielings are of ftucco gilt ; and the walls perfectly cover'd over with marble, fculpture and painting. In each of them is the monument and ftatue of the founder of the chapel on one fide of it, and on the oppofite fide is that of the patron or benefactor of the foun- der. The founder in each is kneeling, and the patron is fitting, and under each of the patrons is exprefTed that it is grati aniini monumentum [a monument of a grateful mind.] The pa- tron of Sixtus V. was Pius V. who had made him bifhop of ROME. S. MARIA M A G G I O R E. 221 S. Agathn, and a cardinal. The patron of Parflus V. was Clement VIII; under his monumenc is wrote, Gtetftenti VIII. P. M. Pauhis V. P. M. Rom. grati animi momtmentum pofiut. And under his own is, Paulus V. P. M. mortis memor, -vivens Jibipofuit. " Paul V. pope, being mindful of de tb, erected " this for himfelf in his life-time." Befides the like Inscrip- tion of gratitude under that of Pius, as there is under Cle- ment's, there are large accounts infcrib'd in marble of fome of the actions of the former, as a temporal prince, with baflb- relievo's reprefenting them. I tranfcrib'd one of the inicrip- tions. Selinum c Turcarum tyr annum, multis infolentem vicloriis, ingen- ti far at a claffe, Cyproque expugnata Chriftianis extrema miwtan- tem, Pius V . fcedere cum PhilippoW. Hifp. rege ac Rep. Ven. inito, M. Ant. Columnam pontificice clajji praficiens, ad Echina- das ir.Julas, hojiibus 30000 cafis, 10000 in pot eft at em redaSiis, triremibus 180 captis, 90 demerJIs, 1 5000 Chrijiiauis afervitute liber atis, precibus & armis devicit. The fubftance of it is, that Pius V. in alliance with Philip the fecond of Spain, and the republic of Venice, having made M. Ant. Colonna admiral of his fleet, with his prayers and arms, gave a great overthrow to the Turks (who were grown infolent with their victories, having taken Cyprus, and threatening utter ruin to the Chriftians) at the iilands Corzolari, in which engagement were 30000 of them kill'd, 10000 made prifoners, 180 gallies taken, and 90 funk, and 15000 Chrifti- ans delivered from flavery. Another is upon his affifting Charles the Ninth of France' againft his rebellious fubjects, and refettling him in the throne. The ftatue of Sixtus V. tho' it be not of thehigh'eft tafte of fculpture, is very good *, and the face mull have been like him: « >xis t j, e for in the very marble-countenance one may read the character work of Val- of the man ; the fubtlety of the fox, and the courage of the lion, {^'0° L ° m " and an air of pleafantry mix'd with a good deal of defign. In the middle of this chapel is an altar moil richly adorn'd with ftatues of metal gilt ; and under it is kept what they fay is the manger where our Saviour was laid : whence it is commonly called the Chapel of the Prasfepe. In 222 ROME. S. MARIA MAGGIORE. In the chapel of Paulus, the chief altar is at the further end, fronting the entrance, and is as fine as can well be imagined. It has four pillars of oriental jafper fluted with pedeftals of that and agate ; and ornaments, difpers'd in other parts, of feve- ral forts of precious ftones. Befides the marble ftatues, and baflb-relievo's, the decorations of gilt metal and other curious and rich materials, there are fine paintings of Guido Reni, ca- valier Arpinas, and other mafters; and a Madonna, painted by S. Luke, in that curious tafte of painting which has been already fpoken of. Before the back-front of this church ftands a granite obe- lilk, which anciently flood (with another anfwering to it) before the entrance to the fepulchre of Auguftus Caefar; as is intima- ted in one of the infcriptions. ChriJliDei in ceternam viven- tis cunabula latiffime colo, qui mortui fepulchro Augujli trijiis ferviebam. " I who with forrow ferved at the fepulchre of " the dead Auguftus, now moft joyfully pay homage to the " cradle of Chrift God living for ever." There is another infcription pretty remarkable, but as it re- lates to a legend in the church De Ara Cceli, without which it is fcarce intelligible, I (hall forbear fetting it down till I come thither. This obelifk was erected by order of Sixtus V. and from it is a profpedt of the Strada Felice, (above mention'd) of above a mile long that way, ftrait as a line, which he likewife made, and called by his own name. Before the other front, is placed a noble Corinthian pillar, fluted, which was taken from the temple of Peace : it was the only intire one remaining there. This pillar was erected by Paul V. and infcrib'd, Beatiftimce Virgini, ex cujus vifceribus Princeps vere Pads genitus eft. " To the moll blefled Virgin, out <£ of whole womb he that was truly Prince of Peace was born." A little further, going towards the church called Santa Croce in Gierufalemme, is a pillar of another kind, one that has nothing to do with peace : 'tis the pillar of Henry IV. of France. When that prince embrac'd the Roman-catholic faith, the • Clem.VlU. pope * requir'd he (hould eredl at Rome in memory of his con- verfion, a pillar, with a crofs on the top, and this infcrip- tion, in hocfigno vinces ; [under this enfign thou (halt conquer;] alluding Henry IV's pillar. ROME. SANTA CROCE,&c. 223 alluding to the ftory of Conftantine, who upon a vifion of fuch a crofs, with thefe words infcribed, turned Chriftian, and van- quished his enemies. Henry IV. confented, but made the pillar exactly in the form of a cannon ; on the top of which he placed a fmall crofs, and caufed the infcription [in hoc Jigno vinces] to be written round the body of the pillar or cannon. Sir P. Rycaut, in the life of Clement IX. tells us, " That " the French king having allow'd this pope to demolifh the pil- " lar which was erecled at Rome in the time of Alexander VI J. " for a memorial of the banifhment of the Corfi, the pope in " like manner gave licence to the French to take away and de- " molifh the crofs which was erected at Rome over againft the " church of S. Anthony, in the time of Clement VIII. in me- " morial of the converlion of Henry IV.. to the Roman faith." He muft mean the fame that we have been fpeaking of, which Hands in the place he defcribes : but there it ftill ftands ; and it feems ftrange to me, that Clement IX. mould think the French would ufe the liberty he gave them to take it down ; and more ftrange indeed that Clement VIII. fho.uld allow it to b& fet up,, in the form we fee it. The church of Santa Croce in Gierufalemme is more remark- Santa Croce. able for its antiquity than any extraordinary beauty. It was built, as they fay, by Conftantine, and confecrated by S. Sylvefter in the year 319, It has a good deal of old Mofaic, and fome few good paintings. The Tribuna is painted by Pinturiccio, the ftory of S. Helena's rinding the crofs at Jerufalem : in me- mory of which, the church takes its name. They fhew a ftatue of her, which is very excellent from the head downwards, but that part, I believe, was madelong before (he was born, (for it has the appearance of the true antique,) and the head long after (be was dead. Here they pretend to have feveral reliques re- lating to our Saviour's crucifixion :. the dice, the fpunge, and the fuperfcription. The church of S. Bibianais little and ordinary enough : 'tis s. Bibiana. vifited by ftrangers for the fake of an admirable ftatue of that faint in white marble by Bernini, which is efteem'd by fome the chief of all his works. Below the altar, is a vafe of oriental alabafter, wherein is kept the body of that faint. It was brought from the maufolaeum of Auguftus. Above the pillars. I - !24 ROME. GRAND GIESU. pillars, on each fide the church, is painted her hiftory in frefco, by Pietro da Cortona, and Auguftino Ciampelli. They fhew the pillar to which fhe was tied, when fcourg'd to death. Whoever has a mind to read all the virtues of holy water, may read them at large in this church, in a tablet hungagainft the wall. To tell the reader that the churches of the Jefuits are mag- nificently fine, and exceffively rich, is very unneeeffary ; and to attempt a defcription of them, in a manner endlefs. The beauty of the altars is perfectly furprifing, both for materials and workmanihip. There is none ftrikes you more than that Grand Giefu. of S. Ignatius in the Grand Giefu, where is a ftatue of that faint in filver feven foot high ; the ornaments of his habit are fet thick with jewels. This is (hewn only on great days. At other times 'tis hid by a good picture, which clofes the nich it ftands in. The architecture about the altar is nobly defign'd, and exactly executed ; the pillars on each fide are fluted with lapis lazuli ; the capitals and pedeftals are of gilt metal, and narrow ribs of the fame metal go along between the flutings. On the outfides of thefe, arc noble hiftorical and emblematical fculptures in white marble, [altiffimo relievo] full as big as the *JDonebyle life*. This is efteem'd one of the fineft altars in Rome. 'Tis hard indeed to fay which is the fineft of all, fome excelling in one part, fome in another. That of the Beato Gonzaga in the church of S. Ignatius at the Roman college is little inferior to the laft mention'd. The cieling of this church is painted by Padre Pozzo, well known by his book of perfpective. The colouring is lightfome and gay, but not very ftrong. If in his famous cupola here, he had given us a little lefs of the ftrength, and more of the lightfomenefs, it would have had a better efTecl: ; not but that it is extremely fine as it is. It is indeed but the reprefentation of a cupola upon the flat roof j it's made in that part of the church, where, if real, it ought properly to be ; and from the place mark'd out on the floor, in the middle of the great nave, to view it from, one would almoft imagine it were fo. It is not unlikely that he might induftrioully make the main body of it the darker, the better to fet off a cupoletta or lantern which feems to rife in the crown of this painted cupola, and to attain that furprifing effed, Grot S. Ignatius. 225 ROME. S.ANDREA DE' GIESUITI. effect, that the light feems to come through it, tho' there be no real opening in it : and if he has for that purpofe a little over- done it in the fhades, the other excellencies of the performance make full amends. There is, I think, a print of this cupola in his book of perfpective. The little church of S. Andrea, belonging to the Noviciates S. Andrea de v of the Jefuits, is as beautiful as can be imagined ; 'twas built by Gieluiu - Bernini: he feems to have taken his thought from the Pan- theon, particularly in his difpofition of the altars. The church is of an oval figure, wherein perhaps he might induftriouily vary from the other, that the imitation might not be fo eafily per- ceiv'd: but that feern'd to me the only thing one would wifh otherwife in it : and the entrance is at the fide of the oval, which I think is far from mending the matter. No coft has been fpar'd in the adorning it. 'Tis all incrufted with the fineft forts of marble ; the ftucco-roof adorn 'd with foliage gilt, and enliven'd with figures of angels and little cherubs, is as beauti- ful as can be imagin'd : a little cupola, in the middle, has a border round it's bottom aim oft fill'd with exceeding pretty heads of cherubs ; fome vacant fpaces are left, which feem ready to be fupplied by others that are coming down along the fides of the cupola. The beauty and richnefs of fome of the altars and tabernacles, having their whole friezes and other flat parts of the fineft-colour'd lapis lazuli, adorn'd with foliages of filver gilt, between the parts whereof you fee the beautiful variety of ftones, are hardly to be expreffed. The altar-pieces, in the little chapels that go round, are painted by very good hands, Carlo Maratti, Padre Pozzo, Guglielmo Borgognone, Giacin- to Brandi, and Baciccio. In an apartment of the convent, by this church, is a beauti- ful ftatue in marble of Beatus Staniflaus lying on a bed, per- form'd by Monfieur le Grot, an excellent artift. 'Tis no wonder the churches belonging to the Jefuits moulds. Maria del!a be rich; fome of thofe, even of the begging orders, are fo toT 1 " " 3, a great degree. That called S. Maria della Vittoria belonging to the Carmelitani Scalzi, a bare-foot order, (whofe merry emiffary, Fra Stcphano, well known to all the Englifh that come to Rome, made us frequent vifits) is all overlaid with marble, gilding, fculpture, and fine painting : fo rich have they G taken 226 S. Philippo Neri. S. Nicola To lentino. S. Andrea della Valle. ROME. S. PHILIPPO NERI. taken care to make their church, out of the alms they receive; for they have no poffeffions, but fubfift altogether upon cha- rity, which I believe is fcarce ever wanting to them : the zeal of the people in that country, excited by the artifices of the priefts, is fuch, that many are open-handed to them, whofe. own families fuffer for it. There are feveral paintings in this church by Guido, Dome- nichino, Guercino, and other great mafters. One whole chapel; is painted by Domenichino. But what makes the nobleft ap- pearance, is the chapel ofS. Terefa. The ftatue of that faint dying" away, and the angel comforting her, in white marble, is efteem'd one of the principal works of Bernini : there is a won- derful expreffion in the countenance of the faint ; the angel I. did not fo much admire. The vault of this chapel is finely, painted byBaciccio, the fubjedr. is a Glory, with angels. The church of S. Philippo Neri, commonly called la Chlefa Nuova, the new church, is a fine ftruclure, and has fome ex- cellent paintings ; the cieling, cupola, andTribuna, all by Pie- tro da Cbrtona. The Bleffed Virgin crown'd, by the cavalier, Arpinas. Two pieces by Barocci ; two by Lazaro Baldi, oval ; three of Rubens ; not his beft manner. A Madonna by Carlo Marat, his beftmanner ;■ an admirable picture, both for defign, and harmony of colours-. The church of S. Nicola Tolentino is a new church too, and! moft exquifitely adorn'd with marble, gilding, and painting by Lazaro Baldi, Cira Ferri, and other eminent mafters, with, a noble piece of fculpture at the great altar, by Algardi. The church of S. Andrea della Valle is a large and noble, ftructure. The cupola, painted by the cavalier Lanfranc, con- fidering it in all its qualities, the grandeur of the defign, the. freedom of the execution, with the beauty and harmony of colouring, is afurprifing performance, and may, I think, at leaft compare with any other whatever. The ftory is the Affumption, of the Bleffed Virgin, with the apoftles round the bottom ; and above are angels playing on muficalinftruments. In the angels. below it, are the four evangelifts, by Domenichino, well wor- thy to accompany the other. The Tribune of the great altar, reprefenting the ftory of S. Andrew, in feveral compartiments^ is finely painted by Carlo Cignani, and the cavalier Garabrefe, difcipleof Lanfranc,. In. ROME. S. ANDREA BELLA VALLE. 227 In an apartment adjoining to this church on Wednefdays Exorcifm. in the afternoon, is perform'd the ceremony of exorcifm, and they never fail of perfons poffefs'd with devils for them to caft out. Some of them might poffibly be poor creatures trou- bled with real fits, hyfterick, or fuch like 5 but others there were that, I believe, could be poffefs'd or not, j-uft as they pleas'd. A fturdy beggar, that kept his {ration in a place we often pafs'd by, was once under exorcifm when we came to fee the ceremony. Whether the fellow were confeious that we knew him, and that we had fome check upon his devil and put him out of his play, I can't tell ; but he acted his part in a very clum- fy and aukward manner, manifeftly affected. Some ihe-da:- moniacks the holy father found difficulty enough to deal with ; their agitations and convulfions were very ftrong, and moft of their fits came upon them juft as they were going under the prieft's hands. Violent fhaking of the head, gogling of the eyes and foaming at the mouth, were the chief fymptoms ; thefe were follow'd with fwelling of the breaft, and fudden fprings and bounces. When the holy water was fprinkled, the dasmon was moft outrageous; and then a little ftroaking and foothing was neceffary to abate the fury. When the daemon was tired, the poor Pythonifia lay a while as in a trance, and then all was well. As we came out, the exorcift told us that fometimes he had fetch'd iron nails out of lbme of them, cofi lunghi ficuro [thus long for certain] marking out the length of his finger. I was once afk'd by one in Rome, whether we had any mi- racles in England? I told him no: neither had we any Dasmo- niacks. And to fpeak the truth, I believe they have no more than we; I am afraid the fame may be laid of their miracles too ; but the people muft be amufed every way, and if there were no Dasmoniacks, there would be no exorcifms. The church of S. Katharina di Siena is fo exactly finifh'd in s. Kath. di every part with marble, gilding, and their other ufual orna- s 'ena. ments, that it looks like a perfect cabinet. The paintings on the cieling are by Louigi Garzi. In this church we law a nun (a noble lady) receive her Nun habited, habit. She came into the church drefs'd as rich as hands cou'd make her. Her air was perfectly powder'd with jewels, and her clothes fet thick with them. She was plac'd in a chair "G g 2 before 228 ROME. S. K A T H. D I SIENA. before the great altar, while an oration was fpofeen in pralfe of the monaftick ftate, applauding her choice of it, and magnify- ing her pious refolution to abandon the vanities of the world, that fhe might become a fpoufe of Chrift. When that was over, fhe advanc'd to the bifhop, [fince cardinal Conti, bro- ther to the pope, who was elected that morning]. She came with all the appearance of complacency and fatisfad;ion that it was poffible for her to put on ; yet we cou'd not but fancy her fmiles a little forc'd. Some ladies, her relations, then began. to rifle her of all her finery, and difengag'd with fome difficul- ty the jewels from her plaited locks ; off went her rich brocades,, and ftript fhe was of all to her boddice. Then the bifhop cut off a lock of her hair, which was put with the jewels into a large filver bafon. Then they went to dreffing her, which was much fooner perform'd than the undreffing. A little cap of white crape, and a plain garment of the fame, were foon put on ; a crown of thorns was feton her head, a lilly, the enfign •S.Dominic. of the* order fhe was enter'd into, put into one hand, and a crucifix into the other. Thus fhe went (poor lady) attended with tapers and anthems, in the bloom of youth, into clofe durance, there to fpend her days, and grow old, within ftone walls and iron grates. She was a handfome frefh-colour'd young lady, and feem'd of a conftitution that nature had meant for another way of life. How far this lady might be confenting to fo great a change of life, fhe beft knows ; for a confent is neceffary : but, with refpect to fome, I have been well affur'd, that 'tis fuch a con- fent, as people atfea give that their goods may be thrown over- board in a ftorm; and a perfect ftorm it is that thefe poor crea- tures undergo, when fair means and fine florid ftories won't do : 'tis reprefented to them fuch a fcandal and fhame to refufe, they are lb teas'd and perplex'd, not only by their own relati- ons, but by the priefts and abbeffes, and others of the religi- ous, that they are at laft reduced to the condition of the lady, who was fo clofely purfu'd by her lover, that at laft fhe faid fhe muft marry him to be rid of him. I was told by a grave perfon in Rome, one of their own religion, and in orders too, that as he was once talking at the grate with a nun of his acquaintance, another of them, 5 wno ROME. S. AGOSTINO. 229 who was detain'd there contrary to her inclinations, came, in a perfectly frantick manner, into the parlatorio *, tearing her* An outer hair, and making hideous complaints, and crying, • Pregafe Common - JJ10 per mi Jon dejperata. " rray to (j-od for me, 1 am in whence our " defpair." 'Tis certainly a moft grievous hardfhip upon thefeP arlour - poor creatures, (whether menaced or decoy'd into profeffion, at an age they cannot judge what they are doing) to keep them there afterwards contrary to their inclination, and perhaps the violent impulfes of a conftitution, which may become mor& rebellious through the notion of a perpetual reftraint. I faw a young creature take the habit at Milan, whofe el- der fitter had been a probationer in the fame convent ; and" when the time came for her profeffion, truly fhe would not be profefs'd : all the means her relations or the priefts could ufe, were in vain ; then they removed her from that convent to the female Capuchins, to try whether the feverity of that or- der would reconcile her to the other, which was more eafy : but 'twas all one to her, they were all nuns, and a nun me would not be 5 and bravely flood it out to the laft. When they found they could do no good with her, they fairly difmiffed her; and foon after fhe got a good hufband. She was there to attend the ceremony of her fitter's admiffion into the convent ; drefs'd out in her wedding-clothes, and richly bedeck'd with jewels ; and feem'd very well fatisfy'd to find herfelf on the right fide of the grate. The door of the convent was flung open upon this occa- fion ; whither the fair prifoners came by turns to fee the com- pany, and talk with their friends at the entrance. There was a handfome entertainment of chocolate and frefco liquors, and very free converfation. They bade me be fure when I return'd into England, to perfuade fome of my relations or acquaintance to come and be amongft them. The poor girls feem'd over- joy'd at a little converfe with ftrangers; diverted now of all artificial referve, which is of no ufe in a cloifter. In the church of S. Agottino is a fine picture of Raphael, g. Anofiins.. reprefenting the prophet Ifaiah, and two angels. It is painted in a grand ftile, and, as we were told, in emulation of Mich. Angelo, after he had drawn the large head in the Piccolo Far- nefe, in Raphael's abfence ; which I (hall take notice of, when I come ,2 3 ROME. S.ONUPHRIO. S.'Onuphrlo. after the fame manner. I come to fpeak of that place. There are feveral other very good paintings and fculptures. The church itfelf is of the plainer fort. We went fometimes to vifit the hermits of S. Onuphrio, from whole convent is a fine profpecT: of the city ; as there is too of Frefcati, Mount Algido, and other parts of the country. From hence we had the entertaining light of the Girandola, and other fire-works on the caftle of S. Angelo, upon occafion of the pope's acceffion. They lay that this S. Onuphrio was fon to a Perfian king, was expos'd in a foreft, and fuckled by a deer ; and that every year, on the twelfth of June, the deer of the neighbourhood come and pay homage to his fhrine. In their church is a ftatue of the faint with his hair and beard reaching as low as his "Ihavefeen knees *. There is likewife Taffo's monument, with a good our Bntifh , , . ° Druids repre- HtrattO of him. rented much I n the garden of thefe hermits we faw great numbers of the lucertok, or fhining flies, frilking about, and dancing by their own light. Some have wrongly aflerted that thefe creatures fhine only while they fly ; as if their light proceeded entirely from their motion : 'tis no luch thing : I once faw a little boy that had patch'd his face with them ; he came into the coffee- houfe, and there they fhone as they ftuck on his face, notwith- ftanding the light of the candles. I afterwards crufh'd one of them, and the feparated parts all fhone. In the Madonna del Portico, called likewife the Madonna in Campitclli, a pretty church, built by Bernini, is a chapel of the family Altieri, a great family in Rome, where are mo- numents of a hufband and wife oppoiite to each other; the only infcription on hers is Umbra [fhadow], on his Nihil [no- thing]. Bufts are on their refpedtive monuments. At a conliderable height above the great altar is a crofs of oriental alabafter, fix'd in the wall by way of window ; for it tranfmits the light, and that in a glorious manner ; this crofs was cut out of part of an old pillar that was taken from Livia's portico. Where this church ftands they fay there was for- merly a temple of Apollo, and that it was built with part of th,e materials. The Madonna del iPortico. ROME. MONTE DIPT ETA. i\ i The chapel of the Monte di Pieta is all incrufted with mar- Monte diPi- ble, and has fome fine modern fculptures. A dead Chrift in eta> mezo rdievo, by Domenico Guidi. Tobias figning a writing for the payment of money, by Monf. le Grot*. Jofeph giv- * The origi- ing corn to his brethren. ml model of There are niches for four flatties, which they were at work a tta (and a upon when we were there ; Fides, Spes, Char it as, Eleemofyna .- yery fine one) [Faith, Hope, Charity, Alms] : the painted models were then England? in the niches. Charity was exprefs'd by a woman accompa- nied with fome boys, whom fhe was embracing ; Alms, by a womaxi giving fomething to boys, that accompanied her. The former has the emblem of a flaming heart. The ornaments of this chapel are fuited with an allufion to the buiinefsof the place, to which the chapel belongs, which is a great bank for money ; and in which there is an office foF the lending of money out upon pledges^ and particularly final! fums to poor people : if the fum exceed not fifty crowns, they may have it without intereft for twenty months ; if it do exceed that, it is liable to intereft, of only 2 per cent. And there is a way whereby people avoid this too, by taking out the money they want in feveral fums of fifty crowns upon different pledges, and perhaps at a little diftance of time between the one and the other : the pledge is to be the value of one-third more than the fum borrowed: The church of S. Pudens and Pudentiana was once (as they s. Pudens, fay) the palace of the former, a fenator of Rome, converted &c - to the faith by S. Peter, who alfo lodged with him; and there is in the church an infeription to that purpofe : Hae cedes pri- mum hofpitium S. Petri. "This edifice was S. Peter's firft " lodging." In the fine chapel of duke Gaetano in this church, are fome beautiful pillars of giallo antico, taken from Dioclefian's baths ; and of granitella orientale, called alfo pcdiculofa, from little fpecks in it, which they fancy to have fome refemblance to lice. Here are fine Mofaics in compartiments, from defigxis of Zuccharo, the ftory of S. Pudentiana, and her filter Prax- edes, gathering up the blood of the martyrs. And other llorics-. There is a well in the church, in which, they fay, axe. 232 S. Pietro in Vincoli. ROME. S. PIETRO IN VINCOLI. are the bones of 3000 martyrs ; which probably gave occnfion to an infcription in this church, which promifes to fuch as pay their devotions here, an indulgence for 3000 years, and a re- miffion of a third part of their fins. The church of S. Pietro in Vincoli, is now near the ruins of the baths of Titus, and is fiud to have been once a part of them. The mod: remarkable thing in this church is the noble monument of Julius II. the defign of Mich. Angelo, with the majeilick ftatue of Mofes in the middle of it, more than twice as big as the life ; (which is pretty well known by the prints :) perform'd by that great fculptor's own hand, and eileem'd equal to the generality of the antique. The figures on each fide the Mofes, and fine grotefque baffo reaevoes on the pedef- tals, are faid to be by Mich. Angelo himfelf too. One of thofe figures is intended to repieient the contemplative, the o- ther the adtive life; tho' both fhew contemplation enough. The one looks downwards, the other looks upwards, both in a thoughtful manner. The latter, as I remember, they call'd the A&ive; tho' I think I thould not have done fo. Thefe two fivures are faid by others to have been only defign'd by Mich. Angelo, and cut by Rafaelle da Monte Lupo. A full account of this monument is to be feen in Condivi's life of Mich. Angelo. They keep in this church the chain wherewith, they tell you, S. Peter was bound ; it is expos'd and kifs'd with great devo- tion by the people on the feaft day of S. Peter, in Vincoli, which is the firfl of Auguft, N. S. The church of S. Maitino a i Monti is part of the baths of Trajan. Under it are fome pieces of the old Mofaic floor, and other remains of the ancient building The pillars of the church are antique, taken from the baths ; the capitals feem modern ; the order is Corinthian. In this church they fay the Chiiilians had the fiift free exercife of their religion in Rome. Here are fome fine landfkapes in frefco of Gafpar Pouffin. Dell'Anima. In the facrifty of the church'call'd Dell' Anima is a fine picture, an altar-piece, by Giulio Romano, wherein S. John p tints S. Rocco to the B. Virgin and Chrift j S. Mark is below with the lion ; angels above : architecture and fmall figures in S. Martino. ROME. S. M A R T I N A. 2 33 in the back ground. 'Tis all highly finifh'd, but fomewhat hard ; the hair is all done with the point of the pencil ; the flefh is high colour'd, a little bricky ; the fhadows are grown blackifh. The lion having been damag'd, was reflor'd by Carlo Marat. The cieling of the facrifty is painted by Romanelli, the ftory of the Affumption in the manner of Guido. In the church are two monuments by Fiamingoj in one of them the countenances and bodies of the angels are moft ad- mirable. A prieft belonging to this church is efteem'd to make the beft optick glaffes in Rome. We were inquiring for him one time in the facrifty, to fpeak to him upon the affair of glaffes, and were told that he- was going to celebrate mafs, but that he was a buon huomo [a good man] and wou'd foon difpatch it, fo that we fhou'd not need to wait long ; and he anfwer'd the character they gave him. I think 'tis faid of cardinal Woolfey, that his expe- ditious difpatch of maffes, was his firft recommendation to king Henry the Vlllth's favour. The church of S. Martina in the Campo Vaccino, belonging S. Martina, to the painters, was built by Pietro da Cortona. There is a picture of Raphael, reprefenting S. Luke painting the Bleffed Virgin, and himfelf ftanding behind S. Luke's back. Whoever fees the Madonna's they afcribe to S. Luke, will believe he had more need [as a painter] to have flood behind Raphael's back. There is a grotta, under the church, of very good architecture; fine antique pillars, and incruftations of marble in the pannels. There is a baffo relievo in terra cotta, of Algardi, a Dead Chrift, &c. and other figures of martyrs, by the fame hand. The tomb of S. Martina is very fine, of giallo orientate. In the academy of S. Luke, adjoining, are collections of cafts Academy of from Trajan's pillars; baffo relievo's in terra cotta, and mo- S ' Luke> dels or defigns, in painting and drawing, of fuch as are to be admitted members of the academy, or contend for the prizes, which are only honorary, being medals, not worth above half a guinea apiece; they are given by the pope; the motto is, Virtus ipf a Jibi premium. " Virtue is itfelf its own .reward." There were two performances, for admittance, particularly pret- ty in their kind : one was a limning, done by Rofa Alba; H h it 234- S. Agnes. ROME. S. A G N E S. it is a girl with a pigeon. The different tindts of white, in the pigeon, in the linen, and in the other white drapery, we're very judicioufly obferv'd, and the whole finely executed. The other was a fmall model in white wax, baffo relievo; it was done by Ermenigildus Hamerani, that cuts the dies for the Pope's medals: iVreprefents S. Luke fhewing a piclure of the B. Virgin, fupported by angels. There are likewife in the French academy founded at Rome by Louis XIV. collections of cafts in gieffo from the pillars, and feveral of the beft ftatues in gieffo, for the young people to defign after, which they may do better there (by reafon of the more commodious fituation, and better lights) than from the original ftatues themfelves. The reader will pardon my non-obfervance of the order of topography, as to the places I fpeak of : 1 take them as they were fhewn me, and as I find them in my journal : fo, from the church laft-mentioned, I proceed to that of S. Agnes, without the Porta Pia 1 there tranfcrib'd an in- fcription on a tomb-ftone, for the oddnefs of the Latin and writing. DEPOSITA SVSANNA IN PACE DIE Xs-II KALENDAS NOBENDRES CONSVLATV ANICI BA5SI ET FLI FYLIPPI VVCC QVAE BIXIT ANNIS PL~M XXV FECIT CUM MARITO ANNVS F M SEPTE EXVPERANTIVS MARITUS SE VIVO VXORI DVLCISSIME S1BI ET POSTE. RISQVE SVIS HOC TVMVLVM EECIT. At the botttom, there is this figure. aB "CD You go down about forty-eight marble fteps to this churcn ;-. it is very old, and as to the bulk of the ftrufture not at all fine, but it has four porphyry pillars fupporting the tabernacle over the ^reat altar, which are the fineft that can be feen. There ° are ROME. S. A G N E S. 2 3s are feveral other antique pillars in the church, of feveral forts. two of them are white marble fluted, exactly wrought and very curious. There are two candlefticks antique, of marble, fine foliage, figures, and other ornaments. As I remember they were about 4 or 5 foot high. In a little chapel belonging to this church is a moft admira- ble buft in white marble, of our Saviour, done by Michael Angelo. I was furpris'd to fee fo much delicacy, milduefs and fweetnefs proceed from his rapid chifel. The lower part of the face put me in mind of the frequent reprefentations I had feen of Marcus Aurelius;' and who knows whether the fculptor might not designedly take a hint from the reprefenta- tion of a perfon who had in his character what the artift had a mind to exprefs, and has expreffed, in this countenance. Hard by is a rotonda, call'd by the common people, and by Temple of moft antiquaries, the Temple of Bacchus, and I think indeed B «clius-. it carries the marks of having been done at a time of good archi- tecture, efpecially in the make and pofition of a double circle of Corinthian pillars which fupport the cupola. But, Ficaroni wou'd allow it to be no other than the maufolasum of Conftan- tia, daughter of Conftantine ; and that thofe who call it the temple of Bacchus are induced thereto only by the Mofaic or- naments of vintages, which are feen oh the roof. Among the reft, is a cart driven along, full of grapes ; the wheels of the cart are folid, without fpokes, like a mill-done. The fame fort is to be feen on the Antonine pillar, and in feveral old baflb relievo's. In fome parts where the Mofaic is deflroved, the plafter is painted, in imitation thereof. On one fide is a huge Sarcophagus of porphyry, in which the body of Conftan- tia, they fay, was depolited. It is hewn out of one folid piece ; the length 8 foot ; the breadth 5 foot and half, and the height 4 foot 2 inches. The cover, about 2 foot thick, is of one folid piece likewife. This Sarcophagus is adorn'd with grapes too, and boys in baflb relievo, (a moft difficult and laborious work in fo hard a ftone) but of no very elegant tafte. There are prints of it extant. The church of S. Lorenzo, without the walls, is very old; s. Lorenw. faid to have been built in Conftantine's time. The pillars of it were taken from a temple of Mars, and other places, for they H h 2 are 236 ROME. S. LORENZO. A fine Sarco phagus. are of fcveral forts. The pillars in the nave are Ionic, granite, lar^e and fine. In the upper part, beyond the great altar, which is after the Greek falhion ifolata, [i. e. detach'd from any wall] are Corinthian pillars of a white marble, which they call pa- vonata, from fome fpots in it like thofe in peacocks feathers : the capitals of thefe are admirably wrought. There is in this church. an old Sarcophagus with fome fine baf- fo relievo's reprefenting the ceremonies of an ancient wedding. It is not in that circumitance of time as the Aldobrandine, which I £hall .('peak of hereafter. In this they are joining bands, with Juno Pronuba between them, who lays her hands on their fhoulders as putting them together. This is engrav'd by Bar- toli, and is to be feen in the Admiranda, page 58 ; to which I refer the reader for the front-part. There are bafib relievo's too at each end, which he has not engrav'd. At one end are three minifirce [attendants ;] one has fomewhat in her hand, which fignior Ficaroni called a Patera [a fort of difh ufed in facri- fices,] it is of a larger proportion than thofe are ufually reprefent- ed ; the other two have cafkets or boxes, which feem as for « A Cow, be- unguents. At the other end is the Porca Fcecunditath *, and one with a knife in hand to kill it. Behind thefe are two other figures, one with a garland, and the other with a bafket of flowers and fruits. On the front of the coperchto, or cover, (the other part is gone) is a reprefentation of the birth and death of man. The birth reprefented by a chariot and horfes mounting, as if going up a hill ; death, by their going down : and the horfes knees bent, as falling f. In the middle ftands Jupiter, on his right hand Juno, on his left Proferpina, ac- cording to fignior Ficaroni, for their infignia or fymbols are damaged, but feem to be a peacock and Cerberus : beyond thefe are, Caftor Handing, with his horfe, on one fide, and Pollux with his on the other. I have been the more particular in the defcription of this Sarcophagus, it being efteem'd one of the moft curious for this fort of antiquity. There is in this church another Sarcophagus, of Greek marble, all adorn'd with grapes, young Bacchus's, birds, &c. f In Conftantine's arch the eafi: and weft are expreffed by a like reprefentation ; pro- bably as the one is the place of the fan's riling, and the other of his fetiing. The tokening fruitfulnefs. ROME. TIBERINE ISLAND. 237 The ancients feemed to affect a good deal of feflivity in the decoration of their funeral monuments, as if they would make death appear as little like death as might be. This is to be feen in the epula funebria [funeral banquets] which are reprefented on fome ; and hunting-matches, and Bacchanals, which are both of them frequent ornaments. In one at Pifa, there is a Triton carrying off a naked nymph ; and a naked man and wo- man embracing one another, of which I have given the defign. At Boliena is one very remarkable, which will be fpoke of when we come to that place. And, as if they thought the dead them- felves could partake of the materials of luxury and jollity offered at their fepulchres, they us'd to pour wine upon them, beftrew them with choice meats and flowers, and anoint them with fvveet ointments; which cuftom is alluded to by Anacreon, T; 0-5 J~u Ai-3-oi' iJ.vfi^itv T; £> yi yiiiv parata. And fomewhat more fully by Mr. Cowley in his paraphraftical tranflation, Why do we precious ointment fhow'r ? Nobler wines, why do we pour ? Beauteous flow'rs, why do we fpread Upon the monuments o'th' dead ? The fame gaiety of fancy ihew'd itfelf in the nurfe at Co- rinth, who brought her dead child's bafket of play-things after the burial, and left them on the grave, cover'd with a tile, to keep the wet from them. How this accidentally gave a hint to the invention of the Corinthian capital, is well known to all profeffors and lovers of architecture. In the church of S. Bartholomew all' Ifola Teverina [on a Church of s. little ifland within the Tiber] they keep what they call the body Bartholome *'- of that faint, under the great altar, in a very fine old bathing- vafe of porphyry. Four noble pillars of the fame ftone grace the great altar, and the other pillars in the church are likewife antique, taken from the famous temple of iEfculapius, which flood in this place. In other refpe&s this church is riot of the finer fort. Li-, 7 238 HOME. TIBERINE ISLAND. Livy fays this ifland owed its original to the corn of Tarqui- nius Superbus, which, upon his expuliion, was cut down by the people, and thrown into the Tiber, on the banks whereof it grew, when the water was very low, and flicking at the fhallows, the mud of the river fettled upon it; and by degrees, with the filth, carried down by the water, refting upon it, it became an ifland : but he fays he believes that additions were afterwards made to it by art, to raife it to that height, and bring it to that folidity, as to be fit to fupport temples and porticoes. It was afterwards built all round with ftone in the form of a great boat, and the two bridges Ceftius and Fabricius, which lead to it on each fide, are fo lituated, as if they were a pair of oars belonging to it. Thefe bridges remain, and part of the old boat. The flatue of iEfculapius, which was in his tem- ple here, is now in the Villa Farnefe, in the Palatine Mount. An infcription now remains, where his temple flood. AISCVLAPIO AVGVSTO SACRVM PROBVS . M . FICTORI . FAVSTI MINISTER . ITERVM . ANN I . XXXI . full by, is another infcription, as follows : SEMONI SAN CO DEO FIDIO SACRVM SEX. POMPEIVS S P. F. COL . MVSSIANVS DECVR BIDENTALIS DONVM DEDIT. This is faid to be the infcription Juftin Martyr complains of, miftaking SEMONI for SIMONI, and applying that to Simon Magus, and therefore blaming the Romans for honouring as a God fuch a magical impoftor as he was. It is agreed by the antiquaries that this was an old infcription to one of the Dii Indigetes of the Sabines, thofe being called femones, a fort of middle deities, between the celeftial gods and mortal men. — — Deos, quos neque cask dignos cjcribcrent ob meriti pau- pertatent, ROME. TIBERINE ISLAND. pertatem, neque terrenos eos depittarent pro gratia veneratione. And the particular one, to whom this infcription is addrefs'd, is fuppos'd to have been Hercules, who was fometimes called Sanctis, q. d. Sanclus, an epithet often given him by the poets, and Deus Fidius, as prefiding over the religion of oaths, — — quibus maxima fides debita. But the queftion further dis- puted, is, Whether this be the very infcription Juftin Martyr alludes to or no. Daille in his book De Ufu Patrum, who: feems to be the firft objector to Juftin upon this head, repre- fents it as the fame ; and charges the father with a falfe read- ing. Ficaroni fhew'd it to us for the fame; Nardinus, Borri- chius, and others who have written of the antiquities of Rome, feem to take it for granted that 'tis the fame. Valerius too and Dr. Grabe conclude that Juftin was impofed upon in the infcrip- tion. Others are of opinion, that he could not be impofed upon; or miftaken in a thing he reprefents as fo notorious. That the- infcriptions Setnoni Sanco were frequent, but that this, which Juftin complains of, is reprefented as the only one of the fort. That the ftatue of Simon Magus [for he fpeaks of a ftatue as well as of an infcription] was erected by publick authority ,- whereas this Semoni Sanco was of private donation, fc. of Sex. Pompeius. That Simon Magus (according to Irenasus) was reprefented in the ftatue as a Jupiter; Semo Sancus always as Hercules. That the ftatue of Simon Magus (according to Theo- doret) was of brafs, but that the ftatue which this infcription did belong to, muft have been of ftone. All the reafon indeed given for that is, becaufe the bafis, whereon the infcription is made, is of ftone. From whence they conclude, that the ftatue itfelf,. tho' not now found, was of ftone too. But that argument is- not at all conclufive; for, the bafes are generally of ftone, even where the ftatue is of * brafs. It does not certainly appear to me,, whether this was an infcription upon the pedeftal of a ftatue or not. It is upon a ftone which is now part of a wall, and ap- pears flat and plain, like the reft of the ftones of the fame wall* 2 39 * Vide Defenf. S. Auguftini adinrfus Jean. Phertpon. [fc. Mr. Le Clerc] faid to be writ by Dr. Jenkin, late mafter of S. Job. Cantab. Reeves's Notes on the Apology of Juftin Martyr. And Richardfon's VrreleBiones Ecdepajlica. Among thefe, I believe, is to be found the fum of what has been urged on this fide the queftion. What Monf. Tillemont fays of the matter is much to the fame purpofe, with. what is advane'd in the books here cited.. K and. 240 ROME S. CECILIA. S. Chryfogo nu3. and ranging with them. Juft by the other end of this ifland they fhew the foundations of the temple of Jupiter Lycaonius. The place where they are, was formerly part of the larger ifland, but is now a little ifland by itfelf. Here was likewife once in this ifland a temple of Faunus, but its remains are now under water. In the church of S. Chryfogonus, of the Carmelites, lies an Englifh cardinal * buried in the beginning of the thirteenth century. They have here two moft noble pillars of porphyry, and one thing very particular, an image of S. Maria de Carmine drefs'd out in a perfect modern hoop-petticoat, with a world of other ornaments, which they had hung upon the ftatue againft one of her holidays. She was mightily fet out with candles, and had great adoration paid to her. They fhewed us a large machine to carry the image, with its appurtenances, in proceffion. The church of S. Csecilia, according to the account there given, is that which was once her houfe. At the entrance, * I could not there is buried another Englifh cardinal*, with fome fpecial find any fa- poetr y about his monument ; as follows. nuly name Of t •> thefe cardi- na!s - . Artibus ijle pater famofus in omnibus Adam 'T/ieo/ogus fummus, cardiquenalu erat. Anglia qua patriam, &c. The (que) lb ingenioufly put in the middle of cardinalis, I have endeavour'd to match in the tranflation. Cecilia. Fam'd father Adam, learn'd to a high degree, A top divine, cardaWinal was he : England his country Under the great altar is a fine ftatue in marble of S. Caeci- lia lying dead, done by Stephano Maderno, in the fame pofition her bedy was found (they are fure it was her's) in the catacombs of S. Sebaftian ; from whence it was brought hither. The ta- bernacle of the altar is fupported by four moft beautiful pillars of Nero e Biancho de i Antichi, the black and white of the ancients, which I before gave fome account of, in fpeaking of the ROME. S. S A B I N A. •the church of S. Maria Maggiore. That part In which the great altar (lands, is feparated by a femicircular baluirrade from the reft of the church, and curioufly pav'd, with fevera! farts of marble, oriental and others. A hundred lamps, as fo many veftal fires, are continually burning before the body of the Virgin Martyr. They (hewed us the place where (lie was mar- tyr'd, which was then her bagnio. Her martyrdom, and other parts of her ftory, are there painted by Guido in his firft manner. They began with an endeavour to ftrangle her, but that would not take effect : then they cut off her head, and after three days (he died, but not till (he firft had feen her houfe confe- crated by S. Urban, then pope, into a church. In the church of S. Francefco delia Ripa is an altar-piece painted by Hanibal Caracci, a dead Chrilt, the Bleffed Virgin, S. Magdalen and S. Francis, and two little angels attending. There is a moft beautiful forrow in the B. Virgin, and S. Mag- dalen. The two little angels are (hewing the wounds, one in the hand, the other in the foot of the Chrift. There is a moft admirable expreflion of fedate forrow in one; and the other is crying outright ; the tears which trickle down his cheeks are in perfect motion, and you plainly read the paffion in every feature. Here is a very good figure in marble of S. Ludovico dying, by Bernini. They (hew S. Francis's chamber above; it is now a repofitory for relicks. There is a pretty contrivance of a friar of that convent to turn at once all the cafes of relicks to (hew them ; fo as that you may fee firft one fide of them, then the other. The church of S. Sabina, on Mount Aventine, was once a temple of Diana, built by Servius Tullius. We faw there twenty-two antique pillars, Corinthian, fluted, and were told that two more are conceal'd by fome wall that has been built up there. They (hew a very large piece of touch-ftone, which the devil (they fay) threw at S. Dominic one night as he was praying in this church : it fell upon the pavement, and broke one of the ftones, which is now fixed up in a wall of the church. There is an odd fort of a picture of that faint in a ddiqidum, and the B. Virgin milking her breaft upon him to recover him. In one part of it is a dog with a lighted torch in his month ; a reprefentation which is often repeated, I i particularly U i S. Francefca deila Ripa. S. Sabi 242 S. Maria in Aventino. S. Vi:enzo and Anailafio ROME. S. MARIA IN AVENTINO. particularly in the churches of the Dominicans, and (as I have fomewhere read) is an emblem of the inquifition, or has fome allufion to it : and this is the more probable, becaufe the inqui- fition is wholly in the hands of the Dominicans. There is a fine chapel in this church, the altar-piece painted by Moran- di ; and another above, where S. Dominic and two other faints us'd to watch whole nights in divine converfations : In divmis eolloquiis vigiles pernoticinmt, as fays the infcription. Thefe two chapels are both incrufted with marble. There is another, which was the chamber of Pius V. now a chapel, with moft curious fret-work on the cieling, and paintings by Domenico Muratore. They fhew ftill fome old baffo-relievo's which did belong to the ancient temple, reprefenting the taking of crocodiles. In the church of S. Maria in Aventino is a Sarcophagus - r Minerva and the deceafed in the middle; on each hand the nine mufes ; at one end Homer, at the other Pythagoras, at leaftSigniorFicaroni will fuppofe the latter to be him, becaufe there is extant a Greek medal, wherein Pythagoras is in the fame attitude, pointing to a fphere ; and he will likewife fup- pofe what is here pointed at to have been a fphere— part is now- broke offi but that which remains feem'd to me to (hew quite a different fhape. Ficaroni, who loves to carp at Fa. Mont- faucon, falls foul on him for faying in his Diarium Italkum, that there are Chriftian figures among thefe. In the church of S. Vicenzo and Anaftafio, without the ■ walls, are the twelve apoftles painted in frefco after the defigns of Raphael, and executed, as fay fome virtuofi, by his hand i but that did not at all appear to me. If they are of his hand, it feem'd to me to differ much from what we fee of his in other places. There is a piclure of S. Anaftafius, faid to be nine hundred years old, which frights away devils, and cures dif- eafes, as in the infcription, Imago S. Anaftafii monachi & mar- tyris, cujus afpeSlu fugari dcemones ['tis enough, indeed, to fright trie devn] morbojque curari, aSla fecundi concilii Nicati tefiantur— As this is expreffed, it is not clear whether the mi- racle is aicribed to the faint or to the pidure ; I fhould apply it to the faint, but the people there apply it to the piclure ; perhaps it may be equally true of either. ROME. S. P A U L. 243 Here they have the head of Zeno, captain of fen thoufand 'two hundred and three martyrs, who were all buried in a church juft by j 'tis that of S. Maria de Scala Cceli. It takes that name s. Maria da from a virion of S. Bernard, who. as he was here celebrating ScakCce!i ' mafs for the dead, fell into an extafy, and faw a ladder [like Jacob's] by which the angels convey'd, from purgatory to pa- radife, the fouls of the above-mention'd martyrs. And this very ftory is the fubjeci of the altar-piece. I mould not trouble the reader, or indeed myfelf, with fuch ftories as thefe, but that 1 think they fhew a good deal of the genius and temper of the people, one part of whom is fo ready to impofe, and the other to receive them. There is a fine Tribuna, wrought in Mofaic, after the defign of cavalier Arpinas : it repreienrs Clement VIII. cardinal Al- dobrandini, S. Zeno, and others; the B. Virgin above. Under this church is an opening to the catacombs: the paffage goes under-ground, firft to S. Paul's, and thence to the catacombs of S. Sebaftian, not lets than five miles, as they fay. Juft by, is the place where they tell you S. Paul was marty r'd, and there they have built a pretty little church, dedicated to him. Within it are three fountains, which according to them were miraculoufiy made, byfo manyfeveral leaps the head took, after it was cut off. The water of thefe fountains cures all difeafes. One would wonder what occafion they have there for doctors. Thefe three fountains are adorn'd with fix pillars of Numidian marble, with other handfome architecture of the fame ; and a buft of S. Paul at each. Two pillars of black porphyry, and two of red, adorn one of the altars, which is there ; and four of alabajiro Jiorito, the other. Here is a fine picture of Guido, the martyrdom of S. Peter. The Bafiiica of S. Paul is a very large old church : in which s. Paid Baft- are eighty marble pillars, antique, taken from the Moles Adri- l»w. ana, Corinthian, forty of them fluted ; there are ten other an- tique pillars, two of them taken from the Temple of Mars, fifteen foot round, Ionic. The tabernacle is fupported by four pillars of porphyry. The Tribuna is very large, and wrought with old Mofaic. There is an ancient pillar of white marble, not erected, with fculptures of the Crucifixion, Pilate wafhino- his hands, &c. Ficaroni here again falls foul on Montfaucon for I i 2 faying 244 S. Maria de Ara Cceli. ROME. ARA COELI. faying it is i uncertain whether this fculpture reprefents fome facred or profane rites. The church of S. Maria de Ara Cceli is juft by the Capitol, and was once the temple of Jupiter Feretrius. The ancient pillars are there ftill. The afcent to it is by 124 marble fteps. The occafion of the name, the church now goes by, is fiom an altar, faid to be built in it while it was an heathen temple, by Auguftus Caefar, to the honour of Chrift and the B. Virgin. They pretend now to (hew the very altar, and juft by is an in- fcription which gives us the whole hiftory of this extraordinary matter, taken, as appears, from one of the legends ; which is fuch a topping ftroke of veracity and eloquence, I could not forbear tranfcribing it. Hcec eft ilia venarab. ara cceli, de qua in legendd nativ. D" habentur hcec verba. Oclav. imp. univ. orbe Romanorum domination} fubjugato, & •viSio, fenatid placuit ut cum pro Deo colere vellent. Prudens imp. fe morlakm cognofcens divinitatis nomen noluit Jibi ufurpare, ad J'olius tamen fenatus inflantiam fibyllam prophetiffam advocat, fcire volens per ejus oraculafiin mundo major ipjb unq. nafceretur. Cum igitur in die nat. D" Jibylla in loco ifto, quce tunc camera imp. effet or are t, in meridie circ. aureus apparuit circa folem, &' in medio circuit. Virgo pulcherrima puerum Juum habens in brac- cjiiis. 'Tunc Jibylla hac imper atari ojiendit, qui tarn infolitam 'ji/ionem admirans, audivit vocem di cent em Jibi, H/EC EST SlRA COELI. Statimq.ue banc aram conjlruxit, ac Chrijlo & matri ejus thura obtulit. " This is that venerable altar of heaven, concerning which,. " the legend of the nativity of our Lord has thefe words. " When Oclavius was emperor, the whole world being van- " quiihed, and made fubjecT; to the dominion of the Romans, " the fenate refclved that they would worfhip him as a god. " The prudent emperor, knowing he was mortal, would " not ufurp to himfelf the name of a deity ; neverthelefs, at " the inftance of the fenate only, he fends for the iibyl the " prophetefs, defiring to be informed by her oracles, whether " there ever would in the world be born one greater than- :t himfelf; when therefore, on the day of our Lord's nati- " vity, the fibyl was praying in this place, which was then the " emperor's ROME. ARA COELI. *.' emperor's chamber, at mid-day there appeared a golden *' circle about the fun, and in the midft of the circle, a moft " beautiful virgin having her fon in her arms. Then the " fibyl fhew'd thefe things to the emperor, who wondering at '* fo unufual a virion, heard a voice faying unto him, THIS « IS THE ALTAR OF HEAVEN. And immediately he " built this altar, and offer'd incenfe to Chrift and his mo- " ther." In fome other accounts of this ftory, (which in the main do agree with this) inftead of \fiac eji ara cceli] the words are [fiic puer major te eft, & ideb ipjum adora]. " This child is " greater than thou art, and therefore adore him;" which is more confonant with what goes before. Tho' there appear no footfteps of any fuch tranfaction as this, for many ages after the time it is fuppofed to have hap- pened; yet there have not been wanting attempts to prove it, from fome very modern teftimonies. If any one has the curiofity to be further informed concerning it, he may confult Richardfon s PrceleSi. Ecclef. Prcel. xi. When, above, I fpoke of the granite obelifk erected before the church of S. Maria Maggiore, and the infcriptions upon it, I faid I would defer fetting down one of them till I fhould come to this place [Ara Cceli.] The infcription upon the obe- lifk is this. Chriftum Dominum, quern Augiiftus de virgine nafciturum vivens adoravit, feque deinceps Dominum did vetuit, adoro. " I adore Chrift the Lord, whom, at the time he was to be " born of a virgin, Auguftus, then living, did adore, and for- " bad himfelf from thenceforth to be called lord." This infcription to me feems plainly grounded on the legend juft now recited, tho' I know not well how to reconcile the word nafciturum in it, (which imports our Saviour not to be born when Auguftus adored him) to his appearing to Auguftus in the BlefTed Virgin's arms, before the offering of incenfe mention'd in the legend : but, as neither of the infcriptions fhew any great fkill in Eatin, I have ventur'd to tranflate naf- citurum fo as to make it fuit with this legend, which I prefume is the authority upon which it is founded. 245 They 246 ROME. S. SYLVESTER, &c. S. Sylvefter. S. Agnes. S. Maria del Popolo. They ftill keep in this church [Ara Cceli,] and formerly us'd to expofe for devotion at one of the altars, a ftone, having the impreffion of the feet of the Angel which ftood'upon it on the top of the Moles Adriana, thence calied Caftello di S. An- gelo, while S. Gregory pafs'd by in proceffion. Alexander VII. [Chigi] forbad the further expofing it, but they ftill keep it in a repofitory ; and a man of learning there prefent did fairly own to us it was no other than a Votum Veneri [a vow to Venus.] What pretty objects of adoration ! Certainly a more effectual antidote againft popery can hardly be, than to fee the abfurd impositions, and ridiculous pieces of trumpery, the priefts make ufe of at Rome to delude the credulous people, who fwallow every thing, tho' never fo grofs. In the church of S. Sylvefter [Monte Cavallo] are fomegood paintings, particularly the four round ones by Domenichin, known by the prints engrav'd after them by Giacomo Freij. The Defcent of the Holy Ghoft, by Pahna ; and, the Wifdom of Solomon ; a defign of Rubens. There are two fine figures in ftucco, S. John and S. Mary Magdalen ; very good countenan- ces. That of S. John is excellent; by Algardi. The church of S. Agnes in Piazza Navona, by the appear- ance of the front without, one would imagine were much lar- gerthanitis, within. Atfirftview, its outfide, methinks, has fomething of a general refemblance to S. Paul's London, with a cupola in the middle, and two fide-turrets ; the ftrudlure is modern j within, it is only a rotonda : all or mod of the body is cover'd by the cupola ; the fide-parts are facrifties, or fome other appendixes. The cupola is painted by Giro Ferri, but is not the beft of his performances, and moreover it has been da- maged. The angels under it are good, painted by Baciccio. On the walls below is fome good fculpture, alto relievo, in compartiments. There is a facrifty painted by Ciro Ferri too. The chinch ofS. Maria del Popolo has fome very good paintings; there is one chapel [that Dell' Affuntione] painted, cielino- and altar-piece by Han. Caracci ; the fides by Cara- vaggio. On the right hand, as you come in, are two fine chapels ; the firft [call'd that of the Prafepe] painted by Pinturiccio. The ROME. S. MARIA DEL POPOLO. The next is that of cardinal Cibo, adorn'd by the cavalier Fon- tana with marble all round, except where the paintings are. The altar-piece is by Carlo Marat, the B. Virgin above, and faints underneath. Two fide pieces are by Daniel Turinefe, the martyrdoms of S. Lawrence and S. Katharine. The cieling by Louigi Garzi, angels and a glory. The whole makes a noble appearance. The chapel Chigi, oppofite to this, is famous for the Mo~ faic and fculpture, done after defigns of Raphael. The Mofa- ics are the celeftial figns, on the cieling of the chapel. The ftatues are, Jonah and the whale at one angle, and at the oppo- fite, Elias, whofe drapery -is particularly fine : both thefe fi- gures are very mafterly executed by Lorenzetto Bolognefe. At the other angles are two of cavalier Bernini. The altar-piece is of Sebaftian Piombo, the Adoration of the Shepherds. They fay the tomb of Nero was once in the place where the great altar now ftands, and that the devils us'd to haunt a nut- tree that grew upon it, till they were driven away by S. Pafchal, who built an altar to S. Mary in the place ; and they have now an infcription behind the great altar, thus : Altar e, a PafchaliW. divino affiatu, ritu folemni hoc loco erec- tum, quo dcemones procerce nuci arbori infidentes, tranfeuntem /line populum dire infejlantes, confejlim expulit, Urbani VIII. P. M. authoritate exceljiorem in locum quern confpicis tranjlatum fuit. A. D. 1627. die 6 Martii. " The altar, erected by Pafchal II. by divine infpiration, " and with folemn rites, in this place, where he drove away, " with precipitation, devils that fate perching upon a tall nut- " tree, in a dreadful manner from thence infefting the people " that pafs'd by, was, by the authority of Urban VIII. great t> t where the Rome. quality take The church of S. Carlo in Corfo -j- is large and fine: the tne trefco of c ; e ij n o: j s painted by Hiacintho Brandi. There is an altar-piece the evening m o m r J i their coaches, on the right-hand, by Mola, very good. S. HOME. S. L O U I G T, &c. 249 S. Giacomo de' Incurabili is of an oval figure; but the en- s - Giacomo, •trance is at one end of the oval ; and in that refpecl: has a bet- ter efte£t than the Noviciate of the Jefuits before- mention'd, whofe entrance is on the fide. On the left-hand, near the entrance, is a good ftatue of S. James in marble ; on the right, a fine bafib-relievo, by Monf. le Grot, of S. Francis de Paula [founder of the Minims order] recommending fick perfons to the B. Virgin, whofe miraculous picture is plac'd above, in a fpace left for it, within the compafs of the bafib- relievo, and fupported by angels. In the church of S. Louigi dei Francefi [the French church s - Lcmigi- of S. Lewis] the great altar-piece, an affumption, is painted by Giacomo Baffan, his greateft and beft ftyle. The counte- nances are good, and the ordonnance of the whole is grand. There is a fide-chapel, whofe altar-piece is Raphael's S. Csecilia [of Bologna] finely copied by Guido. The cieling, and fides are painted by Domenichin in frefco. On the top of the vault is S. Cecilia in the air, fupported by angels : on one fide of the vault S. Caecilia is brought before a magiilrate, and refufes to adore an image of Jupiter, which is there reprefent'd : the altar is in the middle, and the Popas, leading for facri- fices, a bull and a ram. The averfion of the faint is admi- rably exprefs'd; and fo is the earneftnefs of the judge, who points towards the idol ; as likewife the fear of a boy, who bears a little cafket, and the concern of another figure that ftands by. On the other fide of the vault is S. Camilla and her hufband, crown'd with garlands by an angel. .For, tho' (he was a virgin martyr, the was married, and her hufband was martyr'd with her. Upon the walls, on one fide, S. Cecilia is diftributing her goods in charity : on the other fide, (he lies a dying : [we muft fuppofe her head to have been cut off three days before, according to the ftoty told above,] her neck bleed- * ™ s , muft ing, a pope* giving his benediction; with other figures. All Jrban^fc- thefe are painted by Domenichin in frefco, in a great ftyle, and cordin s toth e a fine body of colour. other &or y- The church of S. Gregory, belonging to the hermits of Ca- s - Gregory, maldoli, has an oratory belonging to it: where, in the Tri- buna over the altar, is a chorus of angels, and the Padre ■Eterno, moft majeftick; the countenance, hair, and beard very & k fine, Z$Q ROME. S. G I R O L A M O. fine, and the drapery flung round in a noble manner ; 'tis by Guid'o in frefco. In the chapel of S. Andrew, belonging to this convent, are- two famous pictures of that faint, fcourg'd before Nero in one, and going to becrucify'd in the other : the former by Dome- nichin, the latter by Guido. The altar-piece, reprefenting the B. Virgin, &c. is by Pomerancio. In another chapel is a S. Gregory kneeling, fupported by angels, an excellent performance of Hanibal Caracci : and the picture of a Madonna, that was carried in procefiion by S. Gre- gory in the time of the plague, when the angel appear'd (as already mention'd) on the Moles Adriana : over againft it that ftory is painted. In another chapel, or hall, is a pidture, the: ftory whereof is defcribed there in thefe two lines. Bis J'enos hie Gregoriits pafceb'at egenosi singelus & decimus tertius accubuit.- ■S. Girolaino. While Gregory here twelve hungry poor did feafty An angel came, and. made the thirteenth gueft. In the church of S. Girolamo della Carita is a noted picture: of Domenichin, the communion of St. Jerom ; he is receiving the eucharift juft before his death. His body fe'ems perfedly macerated, and worn out with old age and penances, fo that the lliih fcarce covers the bones ; he is fo feeble that he is forc- ed to be fupported upon his knees, and appears as juft going to expire. They tell a ftory in Rome relating to this piclure, which is- this ; Domenichin, after having been abfent from Rome fome time, coming into this church, perhaps to take a view of his own celebrated performance, found a painter at work copying it ; and looking over him, pointed. out fome particulars, which he told him he thought might be mended. The copyer, who poffibly might.be. one of fome. account, not knowing who it was that, directed him, rofe up in a fort of difdain, put the pencils into his hand, and defir'd him to mend it himfelfj, Domenichin, who was remarkable for the mildnefs of his tem- per, filently accepted- the offer,, turned his back to the original,.. and.; ROME. S. PIETROMONTORIO. 251 and not only mended the faults he had nam'd, but ran over all the whole picture, with a wonderful facility and freedom. The other needed not now be told who Domenichin was j nor was he wanting in making fuitable acknowledgments for the fpeci- men of his fkill, and the unexpected civility of his behavi- our. This is one of the three pictures efteem'd the mod capital in Rome, that are not of Raphael's painting. The two others are, the S. Romoaldo, by Andrea Sacchi, in the church dedi- cated to that Saint ; which is indeed an admirable picture ; and, the defcent from the crofs, by Daniel da Volterra, in the church of the French Minims at Trinita del Monte [Pincio.J The defign of this is very well known by the feveral prints that are extant of it. There are very good prints of the others likewife. The church of the Madonna della Pace has the remains of La Pace, fome admirable paintings by Raphael ; the prophets, and fibyls ; but they are very much damaged, and mod of them at fuch a height, that one cannot examine them as one would wifh. There is a father in the convent adjoining [Padre RamelliJ that is efteem'd to limn * thebeftof any body in Rome; but he * In water co- is aged, and his eyes begin to fail ; fo that his latter works are lours " not fo delicate as thofe he did formerly. The moft capital and mo ft highly celebrated picture in all S.Pietro the Roman churches, is the Transfiguration, by Raphael, in the Montori °- church of S. Pietrc Montorio : the defign of it is fo well .known * by the prints, particularly that of fir Nich. Dorigny, .that I. need fay nothing of it. As to the execution, tho' fo large a picture, 'tis highly finilh'd, and the drawing part throughout moft admirable. The colouring feems to have been charig'd, for the fhadows are become a little blackifh ; but the other .parts are very mellow. The expreffion in the figures below the mount is very ftrong, as that of thofe above," particularly of the Chrift, is moft delicate: the whole affords an inex- preflible pleafure, notwithstanding the great difadvantage of a * Since I wrote this, there has been an old and fine copy of this pifture imported into England; J fuppofe, it to be the fame I faw at Rome in the houfe of Sira. Giofeppe •Cluari, who aflirm'd to me that it was the hand of Giulio Romano: It is in'"the poffeffion. of Sir Tho. Seabrieht Bart. * K very 2C2- S. Maria di .Lore to ROME. T E M P. F O R T U N iE V I R I L I S. very bad light : the beft you have is juft oppofite to it, and that only thro' the door at the lower end of the church. The countenance of him that holds the child that is to be exorcis'd, feems to have been taken from one of the apoftles of Leonardo da Vinci, in his representation of the laft fupper, at Milan ; where we.faw his original drawings of the heads for that, and were told that Raphael had certainly copied them all. As this I have been fpeaking of is allow'd to be the moft capital pifture, fo I think as plcafing a piece of fculpture as is in any of the churches, is a ftatue of Fiamingo, in the church of S. Maria di Loreto, or de i Fornari (for it belongs to the bakers*) juft by Trajan's pillar. I took it for a S. Katha- rine, by fome of the infignia, but they call it the Cafta Su- fanna, I know not why, nor could be inform'd. It is a Hand- ing figure, all cloath'd, with a palm-branch in one hand; at her feet, under a corner of the drapery, is fomewhat like a. crown turn'd upfide down. This ftatue pleas'd me beyond the celebrated one of S. Bi- biana (already mention'd) it has more of the air of the antique, and isgenteeler in all refpefts. By the prints that are of each in Rom's book of ftatues, one would be apt indeed to be of the contrary opinion. 'Tis pity but both of them had been engrav'd by the fame hand ;. fir Nicholas Dorigny, I think, did. theS. Bibiana. I believe the reader will by this time have had enough of churches : I mall now only mention a few of the old heathen temples, fome of which (befides thofe already fpoke of) have been turn'd into chriftian churches. The Templum Fortune Virilis is an oblong, having a por-- FortanaViri- t i co f I on ic pillars fluted, before the entrance ; and the lame lis ' order is continued along the fides, but there is only one half- of each pillar that projects from the wall. The famous temple of Minerva at Athens" was built a good deal in the fame man-- • Several trades andprofeffions, as this of the bakers, the painters, ,&c. and feveral „rukms as the French, Spaniards, Sec. have churches, which are as it were appro- priated' to fuch trade or nation, erefled (as I take it) at their own expence or pro- curement. ner ; , Templum ROME. BOCCA DEL LA V E R IT A 2 53 Her}- but that, befides the portico at the end, had a colonnade continued along the fides. The ornaments within this temple are all modern. It now belongs to the Armenians, and is cal- led Santa Maria /Egyptiaca. There is a little chapel within it, in the form of ChrifVs fepulchre. The temple of Vefta, not far oft" it, near the Tiber,, is a ro- Tem v tonda furrounded by twenty Corinthian pillars fluted. • The Templum Pudicit ; £ Patricias is a patch'd up old Temn Pud; temple, now turn'd into a chriftian church, by the name of cmsPatrici*. . S. Maria Cofmedin, or in Schola Graca; There are in it an antique Mofaic pavement, and antique pillars of feveral or- ders. At one end of a portico, before you come into the church, is what they call the Boeca della Verita, by which „ name the place is generally known. It is a vaft platter- face baf- vS ■forehevo, on a round ftone, like a mill-ftone, the eyes, nof- trils, and mouth perforated : it is faid by fome to reprefent Jupiter Hammon, and to have been placed anciently in his tem- ple There was a great veneration paid to it by the fuperftition of thofe times, and the tithe of their goods offer'd to it ■ as fignor Ficaroni faid : who further added, that one of their iolemneft purgations, was by putting their hands into its- mouth, where they underwent a fort of fire ordeal ■ tho' the fecret was kept from the people If the party that would clear himfelf was known to be guilty, or that it was rcfolv'd he fhou'd appear fo, the priefts, conceal'd behind were ready, with a hot iron, and burnt his fingers, when nut into the mouth ; the people without, took the roaring as a proof of his guilt, and afcrib'd all the difcovery to the facred imaee little dreaming of the trick the prieft was playing behind it' When this account was given us, a good Catholick prefent' oblerv d upon the occafion, / petri £ quel tempi erano briccom, comme fono alcuni de i nojfri. « The priefts of " thofe times were triekfters, and fome of ours are no bet " ter." I have found fince, in Fabretti, that an account fomewhat to this purpole was generally given of this matter ; but he re- jects it with difdain, and fays it is no other than a reprefen- tation of the Nile, qui cloaca alkui ofiVr&nd* infer Jret, &■ per ocuhrum, oru, nariumque foramma influences aquas re- 7ul ciperei*, ■254 Temple of Saturn. Temple of Antoninus -and Fjullina Temp'e of ■Romulus and .Reraus. ROME. TEMPLE OF SATURN, Sec. ciperet; " which was to ferve for a cover to fome common- •" fewer, and to receive the waters, which ran into it, thro' the " holes of the eyes, mouth, and noftrils. [Col. Trajan. Cap. 9.] And that the excrefcencies rifing out of the forehead, which had been by others taken for the horns of Jupiter Hammon, are nothing hut the claws, or arms of a crab-fi(h, \brach\a cancri]. And that thefe are a mark of its reprefenting the Nile, he gathers from Pliny, quia ejufdem augmentum a fol- Jiitio aftivo & file cancrum occupant e incipit; " Becaufe the -" fwelling of that river begins at the fummer folitice, when " the fun is entring into Cancer." Another mark he obferves .in this and other faces of this kind, are the fcales \fquama\ on the cheek. The Yikefquamce he takes notice of in whole fi- gures of Tritons, &c. on the breaft, and about the belly. And thefe marks he has obferv'd to be commune idgenus deajiris dif- cerniculum, " The common diftinguifhing mark of thofe kind " of underling deities." Thefe obfervations of his give a confi- derable light to figures of this kind, which before his time do not appear to have been lb well underftood. The Temple of Saturn, which was alfo the ararium pub- licum [the public treafury] in the Campo Vaccino, is now the church of S. Adrian. The brazen gates from the old temple are now the principal ones of the church of S. John Lateran, as has been above obferv'd. The temple of Antoninus and Fauftina, erecTed by Marcus Aurelius, to the honour of his father and Mother-in-law, is now the church of S. Lorenzo in Miranda. It is well known they deify'd their emperors after their death, [when they had given thelaft and fulleft proof that they were mere men] and the apotheofis, or confecration, of this emperor, is now to be {ten as defcrib'd in a baffo- relievo, on the pedeftal of the Colonna Citoria. There is a print of it in Roffi's edition ot the Antonine pillar. The outer portico of this temple now remains ; and the infeription on the frieze, D. ANTONINO • ET ■ D . FAVST1NAE- EX ■ S • C • The altar-piece within the church is painted by Pietro da Cortona. « . . . , The temple of Romulus and Remus is juft by it, [in the Campo Vaccino] now the church of S. Ccimus and S. Da- * .mianus* ROME. TEMPLE -0'F PEACE. mianus. They take care to keep a couple of faints now, to anfwer. a couple of gods before. The old. brazen gates are ItiJl 2 55 remaining When they were at work, making fome alterations in this temple, they found a large plan of old Rome, cut in marble; and fix'd in one of the walls, as confecrated to the founders of the city. This plan is fuppofed to have been fix'd there by the direction of Septimius Severus, who repair'd this tem- ple. It is now to be feen in feveral pieces, not regularly put together, in the Farnefe palace on one of the floors : they were brought thither in the reign of Paul HI. It is a wonder no greater care is taken of fo Angular a curiofity. They did talk indeed, while we were there, of an intention to have 'em put together. , There is a defcription of them publifL'd by Bellori, which is inferted in Gravius's Thefaurusk Flaminius Vacca, who fays he faw thefe marbles at their firft difcovery, acquaints us with the particular place and man- ner of their fituation ; that it was at the back of the church I have mention'd, and that they ferv'd as the incruftation of its wall. His account is publifh'd in the year 1594, and his words are thefe: Mi ricordo haver veduto cavare, dietro alia chiefa di S. S. Co/mo e Damiano, e vi fu trovata la pianta di Roma profilata in mar mo ; det t a pianta fer viva per incroftatura del muro : certa cofa e, die det-to tempio fuffe edificalo ad honor e di Romolo e Remo, edificatori di Roma, & al prejente dett a pianta fi trova nell' antiquario del cardinak Farnefe. Not far from this, flood the Temple of Peace; the greateft Temple of part of it lies in ruins. What now appears, feems to be one Peace - fide of what the ancient temple was, and as it were a fediort of it. It confifts of three great arches, or vaults; there are many prints of it extant. It was built by Vefpafian, and was efteem'd the fineft temple of old Rome. Here were lodg'd the fpoils that were brought from the temple of Jerufalem : and it abounded afterwards with an infinity of other riches. This temple, as we are told by Jofephus, who was in Rome at that time, was built immediately after the taking of Jeru- falem, when the Roman empire had put an end to all their wars, and enjoy'd peace on every fide. And according to him, the fpoils were firft brought to the Temple of Jupiter Feretrius, ■■a.5 6 ROME. TEMP. OF JUPITER STATOR. [fo called a ferendis Spolih] now Ara Cceli, and afterwards re- mov'd to the Temple of Peace, . then newly erected, and depo- sited there. The temple is faid to have been near 200 foot in breadth and 300 in length, and lin'd throughout on the infide with brafsrplates gilt. The vaults of it are hollowed in com- partiments, fomewhat after the manner of the Pantheon. One of its noble pillars now ftands before the church of S. Maria Maggiore, as is above-mention'd : I do not know of any other of them that remains intire. There is a groupe of figures at the Farnefe palace, which was cut out of the lower part of one of them. Jfis and Sera- Further on, towards the amphitheatre, are remains of the 5" is - ancient temples of the Sun and Moon, [or Ifis and- Serapis] within the convent of S. Maria Nuova. There appears no- thing of them now, but a fort of tribune, or ftctions of cu- pola's wrought within, in compartiments, and thefe likewife are much after the manner of the Pantheon. At the other end of the Campo Vaccino towards the Capi- tol, are the fmall, but noble remains of the Temple of Jupiter Stator, they are only three Corinthian pillars, with their enta- blature. Thefe they call the grammar of the arch itecls. The tops of the capitals are become roundilh, by their corners be- aanyof'the ing broke off*, and the whole does not feem likely to ftand o 1 the C r aP bces in much Ion g er - Hard by thefe is part of the portico of the Temple of Con- cord : the architrave and frieze in this are both thrown irks one. Juft by it are three noble pillars, which feem to have been the angle of a portico to a temple, with part of their enta- blature. They are fo far buried by the ruins of the old Capi- tol, which ftood a little higher, that fcarce half of them is above ground, and what is io, is almoft hid by trees. Some call thefe the remains of the Temple of Jupiter Tonans, built by Auguflus Casfar, upon his having had a nar- row efcape from a ftroke of lightning attended with great claps of thunder. Others, who differ from them, do not yet fay what thefe ruins originally were. If that opinion be not .allow'd, why may we not fuppofe thofe pillars to have been a part 'JupiterStator. • The fame has befallen ^.Concord. ROME. DIVUS JULIUS. 257 part of the temple of Julius Casfar [Divus Julius] which DIvus J u!iu3 - according to Tacitus's account of the death of Galba, was certainly hereabouts. Galba was killed near the lake of Curtius, in the Forum Boarium. T. Vinnius, who came with him out of the palace, and was by him when he fell, fled to the temple of Divus Julius, and was there kill'd likewife; [Titum hide Vinnium invafere ------ ante cedent Divi Julii jacuit.] Now fome antiquaries, upon a fuppofition that he would of courfe fly tofuch temple as was neareft to the lake of Curtius, where Galba fell, and it being manifeft that the neareft temple muft have been that whereof the three curious pillars before- mention'd were part, conclude that they are remains of the tem- ple of Divus Julius, and are by miftake reckon'd to have be- long'd to that of Jupiter Stator, tho' they constantly go by the name of it: but, a hundred accidents might happen, in fuch a tumult, to prevent his getting to the very next temple; and this I am fpeaking of is fo very little further off, that 'tis as likely he might make this his afylum; and then there will be no occafion to change the old receiv'd name of the other, to fupport fuch a fancy, nor to fearch farther for the temple of Divus Julius. There is indeed a noble fcene of antiquities all about this Campo Vaccino, which was itfelf the old Via Sacra, mention'd by Horace [3am forte Via Sacra, &c] Part of the back of the old Capitol is at one end, and the arch of Septimius Se- verusjuft below that: all thefe la ft mention'd temples (be- ginning with that of Saturn) are on each fide of it; the arch of Titus at the other end: juft by that is the Palatime Mount, with the remains of feveral palaces which were in the neigh- bourhood of the palace of the Augufti : a very little way beyond the arch of Titus is the arch of Conftantine on one hand, and the amphitheatre of Vefpafian on the other; all thefe lying very near together. The Temple of Minerva (tho' now a chriftian church) has Temple of not quite loft its old name. The church is rais'd upon t he Min,rva ' ruins of the temple, and is now call'd S. Maria fopra Miner- va. In this church is an admirable ftatue of our Saviour in white marble, by Mich. Angelo and juft within one of the L 1 gates 2 5 8 Minerva Medica. ROME. TEMP. OF MINERVA. gates is a fine old, bafio-relievo of a man grappling with a lion, probably an ornament of the ancient temple. There is in the gallery of the prince Giuftiniani, a ftatue of Minerva, which they aver to be the fame that was worship- ped in this temple. In the Forum Nervse are what Ficaroni called the remains of another temple of this goddefs, which was built by Domitian. They confift of two pillars of the Corinthian order, fluted, with their entablature; and the wall they project from. The frieze is all along adorn'd with figures in mezo-relievo, expreffing Palladis artes, the affair of houfewifery, as fpinning, wea- ving, &c. Some of thefe are much decay'd, but others very frefh. The prints of all of them, engrav'd by Pietro Santo Bar- toli, are publifh'd in the Admiranda. An old ftatue of Pallas ftill remains, Handing over this fine frieze. Near this are what were fhew'd to us for the remains of the palace of the emperor Nerva, from whom the Forum took its name, three moft noble pillars of marble, Corinthian, flu- ted, with part of their entablature : but thefe are (if I miftake not) what fome call the remains of the temple of Mars Ultor. The accounts that are given of the former grandeur and beauty of this Forum, as well as that of Trajan, is ftupendous. And tho' the pleafure of feeing what remains of them be very great, the grief to hear what is loft is not lefs. They fay it was one of S. Auguftine's wifhes to have feen Rome in its glory; and 'tis a with, however fruitlefs, that I be- lieve none can forbear entertaining, that fees Rome now, — in a much further remove from its ancient glory, than it was in that father's time. Near the church of Santa Croce, are fome remains of a temple of Venus and Cupid, but very ruinous. In a vineyard not far from this, is a beautiful ruin of the tem- ple of Minerva Medica, a decagon. The door-place takes up one of the fides; the oppofite fide is tumbled down. There was a nich in it when ftanding, as there is now in every one of the eight other fides which remain, befides that in which the door is. And thus, the number of niches being nine, it is fuppofed that they were filled with the ftatues of the nine mufes. Over each of the niches is a window. There is now a fountain in .Pa a. a,$8 , (/. (audi /' fit/, /it &: •/ 'Z-'m/s/s &f f/ltm/w ///&//ra. -Pay. j>#8. t/.'iaTukr <7us/it <£-, Y/f. SsSm/i4& *fS%m&va //W/sy/ ROME. TEMP. OF FORTUNE. 559 in the middle, in all probability made fince the ground about it was turn'd into a vineyard. Without the city, is theTemplum Fortunse, which ftands in Tem P- F°r- a way antiently call'd ViaadGabios. It is arotonda; not open at the top as the Pantheon, but has round windows at a confi- derable height in the wall, near the i'pring of the vault. There is a circular vault beneath, which goes round a thick fort of pil- lar. The like fort of vault we fee under the Palazzo dei Am- bafciadori, or Villa Publica, which was a palace for the re- ception and entertainment of ambaffadors from foreign ftates, they not being allow'd to enter the city. In the inner part of the arch, over the door into this temple, we obferv'd in fome parts where the wall was broken, that initead of fiones, they had made ufe of empty pots, laid on their fides, with mortar round them, probably to make the work lefs heavy ; as pumice-ftones are, for the like reafon ufed, in the vaults of other old build- ings: as is to be feen in thebaths ofCaracalla, and other places. Having now gone thro' what occurr'd as moft remarkable in the principal modern churches, and the remains of fome of the ancient temples ; I proceed to add, to what I have faid in gene- ral of the palaces, fome particulars of what I obferv'd in them. The palace of the Vatican, for the vaftnefs of its fize, for Vatican. its being the principal feat of the holy pontiff, and above all, for that noble library, and the glorious paintings of Raphael, claims the firft place ; but if you were to regard uniformity, re- gularity, and a graceful approach, or entrance, I do not know whether it ought not to (land in the laft. It is a vafl mafs of building put together at feveral times, by feveral popes ; — the firft having been done, as they fay, by pope Symmachus toward the latter end of the fecond century. Some of the courts are really fine and noble, with rows of porticoes one above an- other, very magnificent; but the whole looks very heavy, and is a great annoyance to the profpecT: of S. Peter's church, juft by which it ftands, as I had often thought by the prints, be- fore I had feen the pile itfelf, and was much confirmed in that thought when I did fee it. The guar darobbe, the officers who have the care of the furniture, and fhew you the apartments, tell you that there are above 12000 rooms in that palace ; and for your fatisfaction they refer you to a model of the whole in LI 2 wood, 260 ROME. VATICAN. wood, which is kept in one of the upper chambers, and may be taken afunder, lb as to come at the leffer rooms that lie in the body of it. But whoever would take the pains to count them all, would pay dear enough (I think) for his curiofity. Befides the noted paintings of Raphael in this palace, there are a great many others, and by good mafters, in the other nu- merous apartments there. A few ot the principal I will name, in the order they were fhew'd me. In the Camera della Spogliatura, the cieling is painted in frefco [the Defcent of the Holy Ghoft] by Girolamo Mutiano.. The Sala Regia [Royal Hall] has feveral large paintings in frefco ■, the Pope condemning Herefy, with S. Peter and S. Paul in the Air, and feveral other figures, by Geo. Valari. He has written his name and country at a corner of the piece, in Greek, for what reafon, I know not. rEoprios otasapios * He came apktinos * EnoiEi. There are other pictures of the- lame rezz0 ' mafter, and particularly three that reprefent the circumftances relating to the allaffination of admiral Coligni in the mafia - cre at Paris. That the memory of Co glorious an action might not be forgot, Pope Gregory XIII. caufed a medal to be ftruck upon the occafion, with thefe words, Ugonottorum Jirages [the flaughter of the Hugonots] on the reverfe : the medal is publicly fold in Rome at this time. There are feve- ral other paintings in the fame hall by Zuccafo, Salviati, and other mafters. In the Capelle Siftina and Paolina, are feveral paintings of Mich. Angelo. In the Siftina, as foon as you come in, you fee in front at the further end that great and fo much noted performance of his, The Laft judgment. The defign of this famous piece, and the capricious fancies that are in fome parts ot it, are Co univerfally known by the prints, and the accounts ot it in feveral authors, that I need fay nothing of that matter. The execution is very bold and ftrong, but is hard in the out- line, as are the works of moft of the Florentine mafters. The exceffive ftrong expreffion of the mufcles even in the women, and the young* ft figures, fhew rather an oflentation of his knowleoge of the fituation and movement of thofe mufcles, than a juft thought of what was altogether fit to be done in fuch fubjects : but he leem'd indu- bious ROME. VATICAN. ftrious in all his works, that the world fhould know he was an anatomift ; and 'tis perhaps as learned a piece, in that refpecl, as there is in the world. The colouring feerus never to have been very beautiful (tho' fo me what muft be allow'd for age) and the want of large maffes of light and fhadow, makes the whole lefs agreeable, tho' the particular figures are exceeding mafterly. Some of the nudities have been cover'd, by order of one of the popes, by Daniel da Volterra, as 'tis faid : he has given S. Katharine a green drapery, who was before entirely- naked. The Charon and fome other extravagances (which fure he had not brought in at all, had not fiich been the darlings of his genius) he has i'ucceeded in wonderfully; as he has in fome other figures hurried downwards by devils in fuch odd poftures, as are apt rather to produce laughter than fuch fenti- ments as fhould arife from a picture of that fubjecl. With all this, if we confider the vaft variety in fuch an infinity of figures, and the very great and mafterly expreffion in them (with allowance for the oddnefs of fome of the thoughts, which was pretty much the way of thofe days, as is to be i'een in the cupola at Florence by Zuccaro, and elfewhere) it muft certainly be efteem'd a moll grand, and amazing performance. Upon the cieling of this chapel are alio painted by the fame mafter the Prophets, the Sibyls, and other fubjeds. On the walls are painted, by Pietro Perugino, the hiftory of the Old Teftament on one fide, and that of the New on the other. At the end, over the entrance, is the Afcenfion of Chrift, and Angels deftroying the feven mortal fins ; by Mattea di Leccia. The Capella Paolina was the architecture of Antonio San- gallo. This chapel has two paintings of Mich. Angelo, the crucifixion of S. Peter, and the converfion of 'S. Paul. 'The cieling is painted by Federico Zuccaro. The Sala Clementina is lined with marble, inlaid, and painted in the other parts by Carolino di'Borgo S. Sepulchro : he has drawn himfelf and his wife, in one part. The chief of what elle he has painted there is architecture, which is ex- ceeding well. At one corner is a fort of brazen hoop in perfpeclive; for what purpofe, I could not learn : which, tho' lo inconfiderable a thing in itfelf, is represented with inch ex- aclnefs, that it affords a conliderable amulement, by deceiving the £6l 262 ROME. VATICAN". the eye in a very extraordinary manner. The Capella Secreta is painted by Romanelli. In the Sala di Predicatione is a piece of Mofes breaking the tables, very boldly painted, faid to be of Mola; — and, a Na- tivity begun by him, but finiuYd by Louigi Garza. In the Galaretta is a hiftory of the Pope and Charles the Fifth, painted by Romanelli. What they call the Bible of Raphael is almoft univerfally known, being difpers'd all over Europe. The originals of thefe prints are painted all along the upper part of an open portico, upon the cieling and fides of each divifion. Thefe were all defign'd by Raphael, tho' but very few of them executed by himfelf. The Eve in the Creation is generally agreed to be pf his hand; and a moft beautiful figure it is. The Finding of Mofes is another; in which, befides the ad- mirable genteel drawing, there are lovely tincts of colouring : and the colours in the feveral draperies, in Pharaoh's daughter and her attendants, do moft agreeably fet off one another. The Laft Supper, and fomc others, are faid to be of his hand too ; but of thefe there is no doubt. The reft of them were painted by his principal difciples ; and are for the moft part very finely done. The flat wall at the back of this portico, and of that which returns from it, and goes along another fide of the fame court, is moft elaborately painted in grotefque figures, moft of them by Giovanni daUdena ; they are exceeding neat, and very fine in that kind. We are now come to thofe noble apartments, generally called the Apartments of Raphael : all the principal paintings in them having been either done by his hand, or at leaft de- fign'd by him. I fhall not pretend to give any particular des- cription of thefe admirable performances ; 'twould be but a£tu?n agere; they have been fo largely and fully defcrib'd by Bellori and others' formerly, and by Mr. Richardfon of late, that to thefe I refer the reader. I fhall only mention the fubjecls of them in ihort, as they are ufually call'd, that the reader may have them more at one view than they are in the larger accounts above-mention'd. 5 The ROME. VATICAN. ' The firft and largeft of the rooms is what they call the Sola di Conftantino, [the Hall of Conftantine] and fometimes di Giulio Romano ; becaufe, tho' the defigns for this room were made by Raphael, they were painted after his death by Giulio, tho' not without the affiftance of fome others. The fubjecls of the paintings in this hall are, 1. Conftantine haranguing his army, and the Crofs appear- ing in the air. 2. The Battle of thefame Emperor with Maxentius, at the Pons Milvius, a rnoft grand and amazing performance. 3. His being baptiz'd by Pope Sylvefter. 4. His Donation of Rome, &c. to the fame Pope. The donation is made by the emperor on his knees, to the Pope fitting. Beyond this are three other rooms: the principal paintings in which were both defign'd and executed by Raphael himfelf. In the firft of thefe is, 1. Attila, king of the Hunns, on his march with his army to fack Rome, but diverted by the prayers of S. Leo the Firft,, the then Pope, and by the terrifying appearance of S. Peter and S. Paul in the air. 2. Heliodorus drove out of the temple of Jerufalem. This is etch'd by Carlo Marat. 3. Peter deliver'd out of prifon by the angel. There is fuch a chiaro ofcuro [light and fhade] in this, as I never faw elfe- where, added to the inimitable beauty of the defign. The fourth is what they call the Corpus Domini, being a re- prefentation of the miracle which gave occ'afion to the annual feaft of that name, on which day they have their procejjio ge- neralijfima, in memory of it : 'tis of the unbelieving prieft al- ready mention'd, page 217, from whofe fingers the wafer he was confecrating flipt out all bloody ; for fo the ftory was. given in that place. In this reprefentation the circumftance is varied ; the wafer remains between his fingers ; and drops of blood, iffuing from it, fall in the form of a crofs. — A rare expedient to enforce the doctrine of tranfubftantiation ! In the next chamber is, 1. What they commonly call the Difpute of the Doctors,, concerning the Holy Sacrament, there being a reprefentation of 263 264 ROME. VATICAN. of the hoft, and of feveral perfons about it, feeming to be in- gaged in difputation. 2. The School of Athens. •3. The Parnaffus. The defigns of thefe two are engrav'd by Marc Antonio ; but the laft with confiderable variations from the painting. 4. Pope Gregory IX. (though the face of Julius II. is given inftead- of his) and juflinian Emperor delivering the digefts and other books of the law. Above are reprefented Pru- dence, Temperance, &c. In the laft of thefe chambers is, 1 . The Incendio delBorgo ; a Fire in that Part of Rome call'd the Borgo di S. Pietro, extinguifh'd by Pope Leo IV. making the lign of the crofs, an J giving the benediftion. 2. Thejuftification of Pope Leo III. from fome crimes laid to his charge by the Senate and People of Rome, in a complaint prefented to Charles the Great, then King of France, foon after Emperor: where the bifhops afl>mbled, by Charles's order, for the trial, declared that the Pope could not be tried by any judi- cature upon earth but his own ; and ne being call'd upon there- fore to judge himfelf, he laid his hand on the Evangelifts, lying open upon the altar, and pronounced himfelf innocent : and they all look'd upon him as fairly acquitted. There is, 3. That Pope's crowning the fame Cbar'es the Great, Empe- ror of the Romans j which was the beginning of the prefent Roman empire, that is, the empire of" Germany. 4. The Vidtory of Leo IV. over the Saracens. In the fame chamber (as I remember, or one adjoining) is what they call I'ljloria diPipino : there is wrote at the bottom of it an account of Pepin's making an oblation of the exarchate of Ravenna and other things to the church; Pipinits plus pri- mus amplificandtse ecc ! efia viam aperuit exarcatu Ravennate, & aliis plurimis ei oblahs. This being decay 'd, was reftor'd by Gaudentio Milanefe. In the Hall of Conftantine, near the further corner, at one end of the battle, is a moft admirable figure of Juftice, painted by Raphael's own hand, and the only thing he liv'd to paint in that hall. It has the perfe&ion of colouring, as well as all other excellencies. On the cieling of the hall is painted the inner ROME. VATICAN. Inner perfpeftive of a building with a crucifix in the middle, and an idol broken to pieces lying under it. In the chamber where is the fine picture I before-mention'd, of the Deliverance of S. Peter out of prifon, are painted on the cieling, Jacob's Ladder. Moles and the Burning Bufh. Abraham offering Ifaac ; and, ' Noah juft come out of the Ark, kneeling before the Padre Etenio [Eternal Eather] who is reprefented as fupported in the air by angels. Thefe are not forefhorten'd, as is ufual in figures upon ciel- ings, but painted in the fame manner as if they had been done upon an upright wall. The borders at the bottom under the great pictures, are paint- ed in chiaro ofcuro, mod of them by Polydore. Some of thefe being decay'd, were renewed by Carlo Marat. There is one thing in the Parnaflus which looks a little odd, and has frequently been found fault with. In (lead of the harp, his ufual inftrument, Apollo is playing upon a violin. — * But Raphael had his authority for this from the antients. There is now to be feen in the Villa Montalta an antique (latue of Apollo playing on the very fame inftrument, and afmall one of the fame in the great duke's gallery : but Marc. Antonio, in his print of the Parnaflus, has put a harp in the Apollo's hand : the print differs too from the picture in feveral other particulars. Raphael himfelf often varied his defign of the fame fubject j as in that of the famous S. Csecilia at Bologna, and others. In thefe admirable paintings there is no great gaiety or gaw- 4 dinefs of colouring to allure the eye, but there are things of much greater confequence, the noble ftyle of drawing, the grandeur of the ideas, the dignity of the characters, and the l'ublimity of exprefiion, raife fuch fentiments in the mind, as one would think the eye could hardly tranfmit to it : and as a certain fign of fuperior excellency, the more they are feen, and the more they are confider'd, the greater is thepleafure and the admiration. 265 Mm This 2 66 R O M E. V A T I C A N. This is well exemplified in a ftory they tell of the two Carlo's, Maratti and Cignani, men very well known by their own performances; which is this. When the latter was newly come to Rome, the other afk'd him, whether he had been in the Vatican, and how he lik'd the paintings there : Very well, fays Cignani, — fono belle cofe. " They are good pretty things." Pray fieur Carlo, (fays Marat) next time you go thither, do me the favour to make me a drawing after fuch a figure, (de- fcribing it) in the Incendio del Borgo ; I have occafion for it, but can't conveniently go my felf to do it. Cignani went to woik, and after two or three eflays he fmok'd out the matter, tore his-- paper, and came back to Marat with a confeffion, that Ra- phael was an inimitable mafter. In another room in the Vatican, we faw a fine piciure of i Domenichini, an Ecce Homo, when Pilate brought forth our Saviour to the multitude ; there is a very extraordinary expref- fion of flouting and mockery in the countenance of him that offers the reed. In another are three fine cartoons, one is of Raphael : 'tis the Daemoniac brought to be exorois'd, as reprefented in the lower part of the Transfiguration. It is fince come into the pof- feffion of Cardinal Albani, upon his uncle's death. The other two are of Carlo Maratti, and Domenichin ; the: former, a nativity; the other is a friar, and another figure. Another room (I think 'tis a chapel) has its cieling painted by Guido; the Transfiguration ; the Afcenfion ; and the De- fcent of the Holy Ghoft. There is a fmall chapel painted by Federic Zuccharo : from this chapel there is a view thro' a long gallery to a fountain which is on a terrace at the further end, five hundred ordinary paces in length, as they told us ; for I did not pace it : I found employment enough in obferving the ornaments of the feveral parts of it which are various in each : and the additions to the length of it were made at feveral times, fo that the height and breadth are no way proportionable to fo vaft a length ; and per- haps to redrei's the ill confequence of this, they have made: fuch diftinftions between the feveral parts, that tho' they are all . in one line, they are as two or three feveral galleries. The ROME. VATICAN. 267 The ornaments of ftucco gilt, in the firft part, with.grotefq.uc and other figures, fhew very rich. Along the walls are painted large geographical defcriptions, mention'd before, of the feveral ftates and provinces of Italy, and fome other places : with landfkapes by Paul Brill and other mafters : and along the cieling are feveral hiftories, and fic- tions painted in compartiments : one of them is an inftance of their charitable difpofition; Theodoricus rex in infernum pro- jicitur, as fays the infcription about it in exprefs words, [king Theodoric is thrown into hell.] The other parts of the gallery are adorn'd with feveral paint- ings, large drawings, or cartoons of various hands, Domeni- chino, Pietro da Pietris, and others, with antique bufts, and baffo-relievo's. In that part next the terrace are the buds of Ptolomceus Soter, Biblioth. Akxandr. Conditor, Miltiades, jlrijloteles, Pythagoras, M. Varro, Plato, Pittacus, Jama, Homer, Mercur. Jive Hermes Hieorogrammateus, Hercules JEgyptia ac Phaenic. Difciplince propagator. — Thefe two laft are paint- ed in the library of the Vatican among the inventors of letters. This Arifl:otle does not refemble others I have feen, particular- ly that of cardinal Gualtierij this has no beard, and you fee along prominent chin. Among the baffo-relievo's, I pbferv'd, on a Sarcophagus, a chariot-race of Cupids. There is a little chapel below, painted by Andrea Mantegna. The ftatues in the court of the Belvedere*, are, as to their Belvedere, attitude?, fo well known, not only by the prints, but cads from * h ^ ^° f them, or models after them, which are in England, that I need pa iace C only name them. The Apollo, Laocoon with his fens, Venus Wi j> s is and Cupid, another Venus, the Antinous Admirandus, (as 'trs ' ^ n ' ufually call'd) and Commodus the emperor as a Hercules. The Apollo, the Laocoon, and the Antinous are much the beftj and they are all excellent. — The Commodus is good, but (hews a plain difference between the Greek and Roman tafte of fculp- ture. Neither of the ftatues of Venus is in the bell talk; one of them can hardly be called good. The beauty of the marble, and the airs of the figures in moft of thefe are what no copy can thoroughly reprefent; and in- deed they are exquifite. — For even in cafls, which muft be Mm?. ctkcnfd ;68 * They call them Mafcbt rent. ROME. VATICAN. efteem'd the moft exact copies of any, as thefe are taken ofFin feveral pieces, when the pieces come to be put together, it is great odds but that fome little wrong turn at the letting on of the head, or of an arm or a leg, may make the ftatue not ex- actly fuit with the air of the original. They have parted upon the door that {huts up the nich of the Laocoon, that pillage in Pliny which fpeaks of that groupe, as being the joint- work of Agefander, Polydorus, and Athenodo- rus, Rhodians. In the fame court are two large figures of the Nile and the Tiber, and a fine Sarcophagus, with a beautiful baffo-relievo upon it. In the walls of this court are fhick fome large faces, or mafks *, which they fay were brought from the baths of Agrippa behind his Pantheon. Towards one corner of the fame court is a noble vafe of porphyry, about fix yards diameter : this was brought thither lately. In a place adjoining is the famous Torfo, a mutilated antique ftatue, whereof there is now left only the body and thighs, called the School of Mich. Angelo, as being what he ftudied much after. It appears by the infcription that it was made by Apollonius the fon of Neftor, an Athenian. It is al- low'd by all to have been the trunk of an Hercules ; and fome at Rome fuppofe him to have been in the act of fpinning; but Mich. Angelo feem'd to have been of another opinion, accord- ing to a model we faw at Florence, which he made in order to reftore it, as he was to have done, had he lived. In that mo- del, his right elbow refts upon his thigh, his head is inclin'd as o-oing to reft upon that hand, the other hand lying loofe upon the left thigh. By this it fhould feem that Mich. Angelo's opi- nion was, that it was Hercules repofing himfelf, after his labours. In the place where the Torfo is, are fome round altars, and fome porphyry pillars, which were brought from the Pantheon. In a portico, coming out of that court, as you go towards the library, is an admirable dying Cleopatra, much in the fame attitude as that in the Villa de Medici's. This [of the Belve- dere] feem'd to me much better and more delicate than the other, the head of which is modern. From hence you go down a very long corridore or vaulted paffage, they fay 'tis five hundred paces in the whole ; about the mid-way, is the entrance into the library. ROME. VATTCAN. 26c The library of the Vatican is replenished with fo noble a trea- Library. fure, that one who fpends but a fhort time in Rome, muft not pretend to give any fuitable account of it, efpecially unlefs his bufinefs were wholly there. I mall therefore only mention fome of the principal ornaments, and fuch few things as they commonly mew to ftrangers. Here are painted the chief work's of Sixtus V. the great founder of this library, and in a great meafure the reftorer of Rome. The hiftories likewife of iix- teen councils.- And, what is a well chofen ornament for fuch a place, there is a reprefentation of nine of the mod eminent libraries, the Babylonian, Athenian, Alexandrian,, Palatine, &c. with fhort infcriptions giving an account of each : and to fet in view the origin and firft advances of learning in feveral countries, there are painted on large pilafters ranged along the middle of the library, thofe perfons who were repu- ted to have been the inventors of letters in feveral languages, Adam, Abraham, Mofes, Mercurius, iEgyptius, Hercules ^gyptius, Cadmus, Cecrops, Pythagoras, and feveral others,, with the letters which each of thefe are faid to have invented written under their pictures. They {hew'd us the famous Vatican Greek Teftamenr, nine hundred years old, written in capitals, with the accents. The gofpel of S. Luke and S. John in Latin, eight hundred, years old, written moftly in capitals. A Virgil, one thoufand four hundred years old, (as they fay) with limnings of no extraordinary performance. — I confefs I thought them fadly done, however valued there for their anti- quity. It is written in capitals on vellom. The four difputed lines which often ftand at the beginning of the JEneld [Hie Ego, &c] are not in this copy. There are arguments in verfe betore each book, a circumftance which feems to me to favour of a later age. They never fail of mewing an Englifhman KingHenry's book of the feven Sacraments againft Luther, with a writing of the king's ovyn hand in the beginning, which I tranfcrib'd, An*lo- rum rex Henricns, Leo decime, mittit hoc opus, & fidei. te- Jlem, & awkitm. " Henry, king of England, O Leo X. " fends this work, a teflimony both of his' faith and of his I' friendihip." c When, ZJO ROME. VATICAN. When they have fhew'd you how good a Catholick he once 'was, they prefently bring forth his letters to Anna Bullen, who they fay made him an apoftate. There are fome in French, fome in Englifh ; in feveral of them his majefty is very gay : . . " Hopes in a little time to kifs her pretty bubbies," &c. In that which Mr. Addifon has given us, there are feme little miftakes : inftead of [your lifter's mother] it is [your fifter ma- ter, or, matez] (there is a fort of r like a z), and there is no mention of a lord Manwring ; it is, [" write to my lord myne " mind therein."] Mr. Addifon does not fay he tranferib'd the letter himfelf. In an ancient officio, or miffal, are fome curious limnings, reprefenting the hiftory of the B. Virgin. Some other miffals, finely adorn'd in the fame manner, by Giulio Clovio. An hiftory of the lives of two dukes of Urbino, with fome of the ftories painted in them, by the fame mafter. A fine manufcript of Taffo [not his own hand] done in the year 1620. Alfo, Some manufcripts, in five volumes, intituled, Hijioria Im- peratorum Roman, Grac. jive Conjlantinop. & Germ, a Julio Cue/, ad Rodolph. II. cum Effig. e Numifm. per OSiavium Stradam Nob. Aulic. S. Ccef. Maj. abfoluta, incept, a Patre Jacobi. I think I never faw a cleaner pen than there is in the effigies of the emperors in thefe books. I have fince feen fome others of the fame hand, in the Cafa Gaddi at Florence: Thofe (as I remember) were in purple ink, thefe in the Vati- can in black. The antient Papyrus, [the thin bark of a tree, on which they wrote antiently] and the Pannus AJbefiinus -j~ are not fo great rarities as thev would there reprefent them. I have feen of each feveral times in England. There is a moft lovely pillar of oriental alabafter, tranfpa- rent, which was dug up in the Via Appia. f Called alfo Amianthus, a cloth not confumed by lire, in which the ancients ufed to wrap their dead bodies which were to be burnt, thereby preferving them, when reduc d to allies, from mixing with the afhes of the funeral pile. This cloth is made of fome -fine kind of filaments, found within the veins of a Hone. The ROME. VATICAN. The great body of this library is faid to be three hundred foot in length, and about feventy in breadth. Acrofs the further end, another gallery extends itfelf on the right and left to a great length ; and in that are contain'd the libraries of Heidelberg and Urbino, which are a noble addition to the other. Within the Vatican palace are kept the great arras hangings done after the cartoons of Raphael, nineteen in number. They are expofed publickly for three days in one of the cloifters leading up to S. Peter's church, at the feaft of Corpus Chrifti, when they make their grand proceffion. After this, they are hung up in fome of the apartments within the palace, a few days, to be feen there ; and then they are put up in their ward- robes, where they continue all the reft of the year. The fub- jecls are, i. The Birth of our Saviour. One of the fhepherds is = playing on a bag-pipe. 2. The Prefentation in the Temple. 3. The Magi, .adoring our Saviour.. 4. The Slaughter of the Innocents. This is in three divifions, three feveral pieces of tapeftry : there is a print of this extant; but the Slaughter of the Innocents, engraved by Mark Antonio, is not after this; but taken from fome other defign of Raphael : the original cartoon after which this piece of tapeftry was made, was torn to pieces, and fome of thofe pieces grace Mr. Richardfon's fine collection. 5. The Dcfcent of our Saviour into the Limbus Patrutn. There are in this feveral old men in a fort of large grave; you fee only the upper part of them. Our Saviour ftands with a banner in one hand, difplay'd, [a crofs gules, on a field ar- gent] with the other, he takes one of the fathers by the hand,. as railing him up. A naked man and woman are quite above ground ; they feem to be Adam and Eve. There is another old man alfo above ground, who ■ looks as if newly wak'd with a fort of furptize. 6. Chrift and the two dilciples at Emmaus. 7. Chrift appearing as a Gardener. 8.. The Refurredtion of Chrift. — —The confu'fion •. of the • faldiers is nobly exprefs'd. 9. The. 271 27' 16. 18. 19. ROME. VATICAN. -9. The Afcenfion. 10. The Defcent of the Holy Ghoft. The B. Virgin fe fitting in the midft of the apoftles : two attendants behind her, one of them is leaning over the back of the chair. The feven next following are after the cartoons of Raphael now at Hampton-Court. 1 1. The Delivery of the Keys to S. Peter, j 2. The beautiful Gate of the Temple. 13. S. Paul preaching. Ananias and Sapphira. Wonderful Draught of Fifhes. Sacrifice to Paul and Barnabas. Elymas the Sorcerer. The other two are. The Converfion of S. Paul. The Stoning of Stephen. That of Elymas is cut or folded, you only fee the upper part. I law it two feveral years ; it was both times put up over the entrance in the infide of one of the portico's, and fo perhaps only folded in, to fit the place. Thefe nineteen are intire : there are fome pieces of one or two more. The nine lad have borders, of figures and foliage : I know not whether the borders were made at the fame time with the reft of the work ; one of them certainly was not, for it contains an ac- count of fome pieces of tapeftry, (not mentioning the number) having been carried off by pirates, retaken, and reftored to pope Julius III. in 1553, by Anne Montmorency, who was admiral of France : the words are thefe; JJrbe captd partem Aultzorum a pradonibus diftraSiorum conquifitam, Annas Momo- rancius Gallica militia praf. refarciendam, atque "juho III. P. M. rejlituendam curavit, 1553 . This is in the border of that which reprefents the Conver- fion of S. Paul. The materials of thefe tapeftry are rich, and the work cu- rious : but for firmnefs of drawing, and greatnefs of expref- fion, fall vaftly fhort of fuch of the originals as I have feen : the figures are either really lefs than the originals, or for want of that majeftick expreffion which Raphael's own hand never fails of, they appear to be fo. We ROME. MONTE CAVALLO. 273 We have an altar-piece in the choir at Chefter after one of the fame cartoons, (it is that of Elymas the Sorcerer,) which in my mind is much fuperior to any of thefe: however, they iire a glorious fight all together. They are fome of them ahout eight yards long. In the great garden of the Belvedere are fsveral fine bafib-re- hevos, ftatues, and fountains. In one of thefe there is a fhip, out of which the guns (hoot water inftead of fire. In another part of the garden is a pleafure-houfe, made in the manner of an antique villa. The houfe itfelf is not much dif- ferent from what they ufe now-a-days : the court before it is an ellipfis, or ovalj the houfe joins to the middle of one fide of it, and on the oppofite fide is a handfome portico fronting the houfe, and there are two lefl'er porticos at the two ends, thro" one of which we came into the court ; I don't remember that there is any entrance at the large one which fronts the houfe. It was made by Pyrrho Ligorio, and moftof the materials were taken from an antique villa. A pine-apple of copper, brought from the Moles Adriana, and two peacocks, of the fame metal, are placed in one fide of another of thefe gardens, next the palace ; the pine-apple feem'd to be not lefs than five yards high. Tho' the Vatican be (as I have faid) the principal palace of the pope, yet Clement XI. for about half of his time * made that of Monte Cavallo his ordinary refidence, as * And Tnno- being the wholefomer fituation : — fo thither we will falJQwff a * II f * n (aa the pontiffs. But, having been infenfibiy led on to a greater beenliifom- length in my account of the Vatican than I intended, I (hall e

n whatever we fhould fee as any perfon in Rome : he told more particu- me the names hereafter fet down, as they pafled, but fome if account of or d ers he knew not the names of, and I have defcrib'd thofe, the oiders, , . , , . &c at the only by the colour ol their habit. proceflion that fe ftft^w Orphans of S. Michael finging in parts. of innocent White orphans, finging in the fame manner. mermo h re f0 e Frati [brothers] di Giefu Maria. STne.V Padri ' Francefi [French fathers] of the Madonna dei Miracoh the laft year r f our ] a d y f the miracles] Francifcans. of Clement L . . ' XI. Capuchins. Fathers ROME. MONTE CAVALLO. Fathers of the Redemption [fc. of captives] of the convent of S. Adrian. Their habit white. Fathers of S. Onuphrio. Hermits. French Minims, fathers. Black. Francifcansj of the convent of the H. Apoftles. Francifcans, of S. S. Cofmus and Damianus. Padri Serviti- of S. Marcellus. Fathers. Francifcans of the Ara Cceli. A very numerous order. Padri Augiiftini. Fathers. A black order. Padri Cartnelitani. White. Fathers. A black order. Padri Dominicani. A dark-colour'd order. Regular canons of S. Pet. in Vincol'L Fathers of S. Bernard. White. Two black orders. A white order. A black order. Regular canons of the convent della Pace, [of the Peace.] Brothers of the college in S. Peter's. Parifh priefts. Canons of the Bocca di Verita, [Mouth of Truth.] Canons of S. Celfus. Canons of S. Maria inviolata. Pavilion of the Bafilica di Sandt. Sandorum, with bells, as de- fcribed before. Another pavilion with chorifters finging in parts. Canons of the apoilolick chancery of S Lorenzo in Damafo. The Bafilica ot S. Ma;ia Maggiore, with muficians, canons* prelates, &c. The Bafilica of S. John Lateran, with canons, &c. Officers, gentlemen, &c. with flambeaux,, tapers, &c Generals of the orders, with their fervants. The Sbirri with their captain. The apoflolick protonotaries. Four treregni, or triple crowns ; and two mitres. Mufick of the pope's palace. Prelates, Penii> 279 , 2 So ROME. MONTE CAV ALL O. Penitentiaries of S. Peter. Bifhops, thirty-one. Cardinals, forty-fix, trains born up. Officers with their red hats, 8cc. Senators and confervators, &c. Hoft and Pope under canopy, as above. Camero.ru a } honor e [gentlemen of the chamber, &c] Cavalli leggieri. Light horfe, as above. Cuirafficrs. Foot-guards. The proceffion began from the Vatican fide of S. Peter's church next the portico where Raphael's tapeftries then were hung up, as I before obferv'd was ufual, and continued under a fort of occafional portico, whofe covering was linen cloth, to keep off the fun, fupported by wooden columns, wrap'd round with green boughs; feftoons reaching all along at the top from one column to another ; and in the mid ft, above each feftoon, fome fort of picture hung with a green garland round it. The way was all along ft-rew'd with frefh fand, and bay- leaves fcatter'd over it. When they came to the Piazza di Scofia Cavalli (about a quarter of a mile from the church, they call it a great deal more) they fetch'd a compafs about that piazza, and went up by the portico on the other fide the area before S. Peter's into the church. His holinefs afcending the great altar, gave his benediction, and elevated the hoft. At the elevation, there was heard fuch a found of the people thumping their breads, -as you hear when a regiment of foldiers are grounding their muiquets. — Anthems finging before and after. When his holinefs was gone, the hoft, which after the ele- vation was repofed by him upon the great altar, was carried by the canons, and plac'd on the altar at the upper end of the church. After the papal palaces, comes next in dignity that of the Cancellaria, which is a noble ftruclure, built round a large court, with porticos one above another. The apartments are great and noble, as well thofe for audi- ence and entertainment, as thofe which are fet apart for bufi- nefs, for the attendance of the prelates and others, upon the affairs of the apoftolick. fee. There ROME. CANCELLARIA. 2 8i There is an antique Hercules, in the attitude of the Farnefe j it is very fine, but fmall. One of the halls is painted in frefco by Giorgio Vafari. Some very good paintings are in the galleries, and difpers'd in the apartments. The eminent perfon, who inhabits this palace by virtue of his high office, is cardinal Ottoboni, vice-chancellor of the apo- ftolick fee. Heretofore they were called chancellors, while it was held by cardinals, as it has been now again ; but for a con- fiderable time it was in the hands of others, that were not car- dinals ; and he that held it then was called cancellarii vicem gerens ; and there being a pretty long fucceffion of fuch, when it came to be held by cardinals again, they were not mindful of reftoring the antient title it had before. This cardinal is a man of great courtefy and generality, and makes all his entertainments da grand prencipe [as a great prince;] one particularly at which my lord Parker was prefent (I had the honour of being there likewife) which they fay coft him fix thou- fand crowns ; it was in honour of the [then] new-elected pope. In the publick piazza, before the palace, was a concert of vo- cal and inftrumental mufick, of a hundred and fifty performers : there were two large pake's or galleries erected, one on each fide the piazza, for the performers, with others for fuch of the company as the numerous windows of the palace could not contain : at a diftance, fronting the middle of the palace, was a machine, built in very handfome architecture, rais'd on an arch of rock-work, with feveral large figures, for the fire-works : the four principal figures reprefenting the four quarters of the world. Thefe, with others at a further diftance, which they call girandole, whirling in a thoufand varieties before the eye, and To numerous a chorus of admirable mufick filling the ear, gave a furpriiingly magnificent entertainment to both. The mufick was a fort of drama, wherein the principal perfona were the lame as were prefented on the machine, i. e. the four quarters of the world, who, fometimes in alternate fong, fome- times in united chorus, celebrated the praifes of the new pope, with the great advantages arifing to the world in general, and r.o Rome in particular, from this her prince, paftor, and citi- * Being a ■i en '•■. Within the palace were entertainments of another fort : Roman born > O- as already ° a ' longmontion'd. 282 ■Palace Far- nefe. ROME. PAL FARN'ESE. ith -along fuite of roams finely illuminated, and tables fet cut v\ great variety of fweetmeats, and all forts of fruits reprefented in ice. The appearance of the company was exceeding fplendid, a very great number of the principal quality of both fexes being there, and the ladies very richly fet out with jewels. The affable, genteel, and courtly addrefs of the cardinal was an entertainment at lead equal to any that I have mention'd. His eminence was pleas'd to fend us books af the drama the next morning. The palaceFarnefe, belonging to the duke of Parma, noble and fine as it is, one cannot fee without fome regret, when one confiders the havock that was made in the amphitheatre for the building of it: moft of the (tones that were employed in it having been brought from thence. The projections are all of ftone ; the flat parts are moftly brick, but the fineft, and beft wrought, that can be feen. In the publick piazza before it are two noble fountains, with bafons of oriental granite. The principal front is not much adorn'd, but has a noble plainnefs which is truly majeftick. Whether'the lights would not have borne to have been fome- what larger and higher, I leave to the more knowing to deter- mine : certain it is, that the great dark fpace there is between the windows and the top of the rooms on the infide gives them fomewhat of a melancholy air ; perhaps that might be intended, as being judg'd confequently more awful. The palace is built about a court, with porticos one above another going round it. As foon as you enter the court, you are fronted by two great ftatues of Hercules, on the oppofite fide, both in the fame attitude. The people there take it for granted, that every body that comes thither is immediately looking out for The Farnefe Her- cules, (whofe attitude is very well known by the many prints, drawings, and models after it that are in England) and fo by way of pleafantry they afk, Which of thofe you fee you judge to be that you feek for ?— It is not very hard to diftinguifh, though -the other, in the abfence of the famous one, would make no ill ROME. PAL. FARNESE. ill figure. The other is fuppos'd to have been done while the beft lay undifcover'd, either from fuch medals which have this figure on the reverfe, or from fome ancient fmall copy of the ftatue ; of which there are feveral : — for that there is fuch dif- ference in the proportions, as he that was capable of making that ftatue would hardly have been guilty of, had he done it immediately from the original. The fine one was made by Glyco the Athenian, as appears by the inscription,. rATKP.N aqhnaios etioiei. The countenance is majeftick and fedate, as ruminating upon the laft labour he had been performing : which muft have been that in the garden of the Hefperides, for (to the beft of my me- mory) he has an apple in his right hand, which is refted behind his back. The body and limbs have an admirable expreffion of mafcnline ftrength [as that of the Medicean Venus has of female delicacy] — the joints well knit, the mufcles llrong, and yet no ways incumber'd or exaggerated ; which excefs Mich. Angelo was too much inclin'd ro, left you fhould not find it out ihat he was a mafter in anatomy ; — like fome that fancy you can't hear, unlefs they bawl to you. Near this excellent ftatue ftand' the Flora, and a Gladiator; the extreme parts of the Flora are modern, but very good. All the reft is antique, and is cloathed with the moll beautiful dra- pery that can be imagin'd ; and for the fuperior excellency of which this ftatue is particularly remark'd. Signor Antonio Borioni, the famous virtuofo-apcthecary, has a maim'd ftatue in much the fame condition the Flora was in before it was re- pair'd, wanting the head and hands. The drapery of his too is admirable, and the fweep of the body beautiful ; his feems to have been a Flora too. The Gladiator, fome fay, reprefents Spicillus Mirmillo, a freed-man-of Nero, who had fignaliz'd himfelf by his bravery. A youth, whom he has kill'd, is thrown over his left moulder. Others call this a Commodus, in the appearance of a gladiator. Gronovius is of another opinion, and will not allow it to be any gladiator: he fuppofes it to be an Atreus with one of the chil- dren of his brother Thyeftes : Unlefs (fays he', you'll fuppofe gladiators to have been fighting with boys. [This indeed he has en his back, is no more.] His defcripdon of this figure is veiy O o 2 juft. . 283 2?4 ROME. PAL. FARNESE. juftv Eft imago favimtis, & atrocijjime contreSiantis puerum, in quern crudeliffime indt confukre. Hinc ar rep turn pede dextro jamjam gladio eft d/ffeifurus ; eerie f.c ?uinabundus fiat At reus, atque ird tumet. " It is the reprefentation of a perfon much " enraged, who very roughly handles a lad, whom he is going " to ufe with the utmoft cruelty. He has caught him up by " his right foot, and is juft a going to cleave him afunder with " his fword. With fuch a threatning countenance, indeed, " does Atreus ftand, and fwells with rage." The meffenger, indeed, in Seneca's Thyeftes, gives another account of the death of his children, fc. a formal facrifice of them by the hand of a prieft, with all accuftom'd ceremonies. But fuch variations are a liberty allowable to poets of every kind, whe- ther verifiers or fculptors, &c. In a wafte ground, without the back gate of the palace, is enclos'd within a rude fort of a place, that famous groupe call'd the Toro ; [the bull]. There is the bull, two men and two women, and a youth as big as life, with animals, and other ornaments. Thefe, and the rock they all ftand upon, are cut out of one block of marble. The ftory is, Dirce tied to the Horns of the Bull. The other circumftances of the ftory are too well known to need being inferted here. I did not find any infeription upon the marble, but 'tis look'd upon to be the fame which is mention'd by Pliny as brought from Rhodes, and plac'd before the houfe of Alinius Pollio ; the joint work of Apollonius and Taurifcus. It was remov'd from its firft fituation by Caracalla, and plac'd in his baths ; in the ruins of which it was found in the time of Paul the Third. It is of unequal ^oodnefs in the feveral parts: the countenances of Zetus and Amphion have a noble expreffion of indignation and revenge: their hands, and the head of the bull, have a great deal of force, which none of the prints of it, which I have feen, do in any degree come up to : but the expreffion in the countenance of Dirce is not fuch as one might expect on the occafion : it is quite without paflion. Antiope ftands by as a fpedlator, and not much concern'd any way j perhaps the fatisfa&ion fhe might take in the fate of her rival, and yet the horror naturally arif- ing from, fuch a fight might be fuppos'd as mutual checks upon each other, and fo to keep her foul in an equilibrium. ? Amphion's ROME. PAL. FARNESE. Amphion's harp lies at one corner of the rock, and gives us an auth'entick, reprefentation of the old tcjiudo cithara. This groupe, taking it all together, muft be etteem'd a moil; magni- ficent and noble performance. In the fame place are a great many other pieces of antique fculpture; fome fragments, others intire. Among which a young Auguftus on horfeback, about the fize of half life, is excellently good. And, a ram, which for fuch a fubject is ad- mirable : one would wonder how marble could be fo foften'd into wool. The gallery, painted by Caracci, is univerfally known, as to the defign, by the prints that are of it. The execution is moft mafterly in all refpects : and for colouring, it is certainly the very perfection of frefco-painting. The feveral ftories are feparated from each other by large fi- gures, in chiaro ofcuro, of Termini, Cariatides, &c. which give a moft agreeable variety, and a relief to the eye from fuch an effect, as the luxuriancy, which fo great a work all painted in the proper colours, would have produc'd. The idea of the figures of Polypheme, of which there are two in this work, feem evidently to have been taken from thofe of Pelegrino Tibaldi, in the Injlituto at Bologna, under whom the family of the Caracci made their firftftudies in painting. The part of the ftory reprefented here is different from that at Bo- logna, and confequently fo is the attitude too; I fpeak therefore only of the idea in general, being taken from the other, which I think muft be manifeft to thofe who have confider'd both, Befides this admirable performance in painting, this gallery is adorn'd with feveral pieces of excellent antique fculpture, which are rang'd at proper diftances all along it. Here is the famous Homer, the original of fo many others, which are antique too. We faw four together in one collecti- on, [that of cardinal AlbaniJ fome a little varied in fome incon^ fiderable circumftances, but all vifible imitations of this. There is likewife a veftal virgin of exquifite beauty, and fe- veral others, too many to recite. But, I muft not omit the Seneca, the very picture of fignor Trevifani, a famous painter now in Rome. It is not neceffary that a great man fliould be a great beauty. There 2S5 286 ROME. PAL. FARNE S E. There are a great many reprefentations of this philofopher at Rome and ellewhere : as good a one as any, I think, is that of the great duke's at Florence. Juff. as you come out of the gallery, in the room adjoining, you fee the Venus Callipygis [with fair haunches] (he turns hack her head to look at them ; with one hand (he holds the drapery before her, which (lie has drawn from behind, and with the other (he raifes part of it above her head. The head is mo- dern, and indifferent enough, but the back is excellent. The occafion of this epithet being given to Venus, is deliver'd - by Athenasus, and is as follows. " Two pretty young girls, daughters of a countryman near " Syracufe, taking a walk in a publick way, fell into a difpute " which of them had the handlbmer buttocks. A young man " happening to come by, who was fon to a chief perfon in " the city, they agreed to refer the matter to himj and both " fairly fhew'd him the parts in queftion. After a careful view " of each, he adjudg'd thofe of the. elder to be the handfomeff, " and became violently fmitten with the lafs. Back he goes " into the city, fick of love, and tells his younger brother " what had happen'd. Upon this, out went he, and taking- " his furvey of the girls, fell in love with the other. The fa- *' ther of the young men coming to know of it, urg'd them to- • " bethink themfelves of more confiderable matches; but find- " ingall he could. fay fignified nothing, refolv'd atlaft to indulge <( their love, fent for the girls out of the field, well to the " content of their, father, and married them to his fons. The* " young ladies [for fuch we mud now call them] upon this " got the n.ame of KahKtrvyn among their fellow-citizens, ac«- " cording to the Iambic of Cercidas the Megalopolitan. n Hc Hthhiiriyav l^iiyof iv Zvfay.itrais. There was a fair-haunch'd pair in Syracufe. " They being now advanc'd to a fair fortune, built a temple " to Venus, calling her likewife YLaxKimym? In the fame room is a marble head, which they call Demo- fthenes, but it is very much different from other reprefentations I'have feen of him. It has no beard, the others have. It; fome- ROME. PAL. FARNESE. 287 fomewhat refembles the head of the Rotatoreat Florence; info- much that I have known thep!aifter-caft of the onemiflaken for the other, by fome, that have not been well acquainted with both thele figures, tho'otherwife well fkill'd in things of this nature. Among a confiderable number of the Roman emperors, in another room, there is a famous bufl of Caracalla, which is par- ticularly efteem'd ; it is a mo ft elaborate, as well as mafterly per- formance, and (as the Homer above mention'd) has had great numbers done in imitation of it, which we have feen difpers'd in feveral collections. In the fame room are two fine Bacchanals in baflb-relievo. Here is the plan of old Rome in marble, taken from the tem- ple of Romulus and Remus, as has been already mention'd. There is extant a map of old Rome, which was taken in part from thefe marbles. In another room is painted the hiftory of that great general of this family, Alexander Farnefe, but not very well. The fame fubjedis reprefented at Piacenza, and takes up a whole fuite of rooms. A particular account of this great man maybe fecn in Famia- nu-s Strada's hiftory of the Low-country Wars. In the hall is a large ftatue of the fame Alexander, crown'd by Victory j the river Scheld in chains, and Flanders kneeling under him. This great groupe, they fay, was cut out of the low- er part of a pillar which once belong'd to the temple of Peace. Around this hall are feveral ftatues of gladiators, and two of Piety and Abundance, by Guglielmo della Porta, Milanefe, very good. 'Tis a thoufand pities that fo noble a palace as this is, fhould be left uninhabited, and in a manner defolate. From a terrace behind this palace you have a view of the leffer palace of the fame family (called therefore the Piccolo Little Far. Farnefe) in the Lungara, on the other fide the Tiber. And we nefe - were told there was once a defign to have a bridge built over that river, and a communication made between the two palaces. The leffer palace is rather mean than otherwife, if compar'd with the greater. It is uninhabited too, and very much neglect- ed. 'Tis pity that the fine paintings of Raphael that are within cannot be remov'd tofome other place, where better caremight be taken 288 ROME. LITTLE FARNESE. taken of them. But they are done in frefco, and confequently immoveable, unlefs by taking wall and all. One of them is the famous Galatea, with Nymphs, Tritons, and Cupids, a very gay defign : there are feveral copies of it in England, befides the prints. It has been well preierv'd from fractures, but for want of fires, and by itsftandingnot far from the Tiber, the colouring has fufFer'd, thro' damps. — In the fame room, with this celebrated piece, in a corner towards the top, they fhew a large head in black chalk, done upon the plainer, by Mich. Angelo, in Raphael's abfence, which was intended, as they fay there, as a reproof to Raphael for making his figures in the Galatea too final]. If that was the intent, there is a ca- ricatura in the reproof; for had Raphael made his figures fo large in the place where they are, they would have been mon- ftrous: Galatea had been then a fair match for Polyphemus. On the fame floor, is a room filled with the ftory of Pfyche, all defign'd by Raphael, but chiefly executed (as they fay) by Julio Romano, i. e. the two large pictures on the flat of the cieling, reprefenting the council of the gods, and the marriage- feaft of Cupid and Pfyche. The other parts of the ftory, in- troductory to this conclufion of it, and other fancies allufive to it, reprefenting the Power and Triumph of Love, are paint- ed in triangular compartiments, feparated by feftoons of fruits and foliage, on the coveing flope, which rifes from the wall to the flat of the cieling. Thefe they fay were moftly painted by Raphael's own hand, and do much furpafs the cieling in the execution. The ground of that is a^ftrong blue fky, with fnowy fort of clouds, which is no advantage to the figures. This they told us was nothing fo to that degree, till painted over by Carlo Maratti, who was employed to repair it. Bellori has given a large account of the ftory, and the performance; and under the prints of it engrav'd by Sir Nich. Dorigny, are iummary accounts of the feveral parts of it, to which I refer the reader. The Venus in the Council of the Gods is as clumfy and grofs in the painting as 'tis in the print ; one wou id rather take it for a defign of Rubens than of Raphael. Pluto's fide-glance to- wards her is admirably exprefs'd in the original, as is Neptune's more direct one. But the Venus t that comes in dancing at the Nuptial ROME. PAL. BARBERINI. 289 Nuptial Feaft, is a mod genteel and beautiful figure ; Co light and airy, as if (lie could lead on her dance in pure aether, and not need the footing even of a cloud to fix her fteps upon. The Mercury, which is painted at the upper end of the gallery [below the deling] is, I think the livelieft figure I ever law : you can hardly perfuade yourfelf, but that he is really coming forward to meet you. The paintings above ftairs fcarce deferve to be menticn'd (at lead after what we have been fpeaking of), though they call'd them all Giulio Romano's. Vulcan's forge, over a chimney in the firft room, Giulio poffibly might have had fome hand in. The Palazzo Barberini is a vaftly large, and moft noble pa- *?[■ Barbe- lace ; being at the fame time the habitation both of a prince/'"' and of a cardinal, each having their feparate grand apartments in it, either of them fufficient to make a great palace of itfelf. And yet there is, befides, another lefier one, of the princefs Paleftrina. In this palace is a very large and fine library : the keeper of it, Monf. de Romain, is a curious and learned, but very mo- rofe gentleman. He would not fo much as accept the money offer'd him by way of gratuity ; others in his ftation are upon fuch occafions generally more complaifant. He is the fame perfon that wrote a large account in Latin of S. Peter's church, intitled, Temp/um Vaticanum. Throughout the apartments are difpers'd a perfect infinity of paintings, ftatues, and other curiofities. The great ftair-cafe has in the middle of it an antique lion in marble, mezo-relievc, in a very great tafte. This lion is fup- pos'd by Bellori [Veterum Sepulchra, N° 49.] to have belong'd to an old fepulchre at Tivoli, now deftroyed j but the memory of it is preferv'd by a drawing of Pietro da Cortona, and publilh'd by Bellori from that. The Barberini-family might poffibly come by this lion thro' the means of Pietro, when he was paint- ing their great hall. A pair of back ftajrs, on the other fide, of the lumacha fort [winding,] are reckon'd the fined in Rome; the area of thefe ftairs is not round, but oval. Either of thefe flair-cafes delivers you into a very noble hall, the cieling admirably painted by Pietro da Cortona, (as jufi: now hinted) the Triumph of Glory, the four Cardinal Vir- P p tues, igo i; | I ROME. PAL. BARBERINI. tues, &c. all by way of compliment to the family. There is a vaft multitude of figures in this great performance, and won- derfully good. It is there efteem'd the principal of his works ; there is a vaft luxuriancy of fancy fhew'd in it, but I did not think it fa degage as what he has done in the Palazzo Pitti at Florence. In a room adjoining is a cieling curioufly painted by Andrea Sacchi : it reprefents the Divine Wifdom. I (hall trouble the reader with only a very few of the nume- rous fine things which we faw in this palace. On the cardinal's fide, is a fine antique ftatue of Brutus the conful, with the heads of his two fons in his hands. — The ftory is very well known. A Satyr fieeping. A large Bacchanal painted by Romanelli; there is one of the fame among the royal pictures, at Somerfet-Houfe in London. S. Sebaftian carried by Angels, finely painted by Lanfranc. There is a fine chamber of bufts : Julius Caefar, Scipio Afri- canus, Marcus Aurelius, Lucius Verus, and many others. In another chamber, a fine buft, faid to be of Alexander, with a helmet : and another of Pallas. The cieling of this room is painted by Giofeppe Chiari, and is the heft, I think, that I have feen of his works : it reprefents Plato in the cradle, and the bees playing about him. This, no doubt, was done in allufion to the Barberini-arms, which are bees. In another room is a moft curious portrait-buft, carved by Bernini, a lady of the family Galeoti, wife to one of the Bar- berini. I have feen other faces of his, full as well done as this : but there is fomewhat in the drapery almoft furpaffing imagination. The delicacy of the lace about her neck and bo- ibm, fo wrought in marble ! — it is not to be exprefs'd. In another room, fome naked figures painted in chiaro ofcu- ro, by Mich. Angelo, in capricious attitudes, called Academia delle Forze, as if it were a fchool for inftruction, how torepre- fent actions of ftrength and activity. A fine picture of Leonardo da Vinci, two women : one of them has a flower in her hand. In other rooms are Marcus Aurelius, as haranguing his army j Septimius Severus, a whole figure, both in copper. ROME. PAL. BARB ERIN I, 291 Hippomanes and Atalanta in marble, fine. An old Mofaic of Europa and the Bull, brought from the temple of Fortune at Pranefte, now call'd Paleftrina, whereof the family of the Barberini are princes. Three Bacchantes in baffo-relievo, on an altar, half round. Ifis and Harpocrates, with a cornucopia. A very fine antique Venus afleep ; marble. A Boy afleep, finely painted by Guido. Polypheme and Galatea, by Han. Caracci, in frefco, fmall. The famous Magdalene of Guido, which (as I remember) they diftinguifh by the addition of conpiedinudi [barefoot.] .And A S. Francis over againft it, by the fame hand : of both thefe there are copies in England. Noah and Cham, by Andrea Sacchi. AS. Katharine, by Leonardo da Vinci j admirable. A Roma Triumphans, an antique painting in frefco, with •viSloriolis. Under it is a modern infcription, Virtus, Honor, Imperium, [Virtue, Honour, Empire.] Over againft this is a Venus, antique, likewife in frefco ; with fome boys added by Carlo Maratti : a good copy has been, made of it by Thomafo Chiari, brother to Giofeppe. Near thefe is a fmall head of an old woman, which has the moft of nature of any thing, I think, I ever faw. A Rogus *, and feveral other fine baffo-relievo's. * Funeral The twelve apoftles, whole lengths, painted by Carlo Ma- P' 1 ' rat: and, in another room, fome whole-length portraits by & c , the fame. On the prince's fide, is a celebrated picture of Nicola Pouf- fin, reprefenting the death of Germanicus. Mr. Richardfon has a fine copy of it. A faint praying j by Guido. A Peftj by Carlo Marat. The Baptifm of Chrift; by Andrea Sacchi. Another Magdalen by Guido j fomewhat in the attitude of tThisbwhat that on the cardinal's fide. JSJfig: A Noli me tangere -j- ; by Han. Caracci. tures which Silenus, an antique ftatue, fine. clT'ftaf Pope Urban VIII. in Mofaic. He was the raifer of this fa- his refurrec- milv. tion. with P p 2 A soat mry ' &c ' with bo- urning 9 292 ROME. PAL. BARBERINI, A goat fcratching his ears, marble, antique. Some capricious fancies of Mich. Angelo, call'd his Dream, There is a print after it. Raphael's Miftrefs, painted by himfelf ; with naked breart and arm. Upon the bracelet on her arm is written Raphael Urbinas. The picture has abundance of nature, but reprefents no great beauty. There is a copy of it above flairs, by Giulio Romano. In the princefs's apartment are, A Chrift afleep, and a Madonna ; a fine countenance; by Guido. A Holy Family, call'd Raphael. 'Tis doubtlefs of his deilgn. King Charles the Firft's Queen, by Vandyke. A Holy Family and S. Catherine, by Parmegiano. Some fludies, as they call them, that is, drawings and- fketches after Coregio's cupola at Parma ,- faid to be done by Andrea Sacchi. To avoid prolixity, I forbear adding feveral others in this palace which I took memorandums of. But I muft not omit mentioning the famous Vas Barberinum ; the figure of the vafe itfelf, with thofe of the bafib-relievo's that are upon it, are in print. The ground is black, and the figures in the relievo are white : fo that it is what they call cameo, and there they do aver that the black and the white in the ftone are both natural. But Signer Fkaroni, upon frequent examinations of it, is of a contrary opinion : for that the an- cients had certainly the way of making artificial cameo's; of which he fhew'd me feveral in his pofieffion ; and made me a prefent of a little one that was fo. This vafe contain'd the afhes of the empercr Alexander Se- verus, and was found in his tomb, within a vafe of porphyry, which is now in the Capitol. At cavalier Pozzo's we faw a copy painted in oil-colours by Nicola Poufiin, of the baiTo- relievo's that are on it. With this vafe they fhew'd us an antique Jlatera Romany [Roman fteel-yard] with a buft for its weight. There is a very pretty fountain in the middle of the falone,, below flairs, looking to the garden. A ROME. PAL. BARBERINI. A fort of trench goes along the back part, and fide of the palace, and over one part of it is a bridge built by Bernini, in imitation of the ruins of an old one : it is very fafe paffing over it, tho' by the appearance one would not think fo. A very ingenious perfon who was with us, and one who had ftudied many years in Rome, architecture as well as painting, (but had never happen'd to fee this bridge) was fome time before he could be convinc'd that it was not a real ruin ; fo well is it reprefented. As we were obferving this bridge, I happen'd to caft my eye upon a marble infcription in one of the walls of the trench, that keeps up the ground from tumbling in, which, large and fair as it is, may eafily efcape the fight of a traveller, unlefs he be taken on purpofe to fee it, which we never were, tho' we feveral times vifited this palace. It was the incredulity of my friend leading us to the further fide of the bridge, that gave me an occafion of efpying it. I found the infcription related to our nation, and fo I tranfcrib'd it, as follows. 2 9-3 TI . CLAVDIO . CMS.. AVGVSTO. PONTIFICI . MAX . TR . P . IX COS . V . IMP . XVI .P.P. SENATVS . POPVL • Q_. R . QVOD- REGES . BRITANNLE . ABSQ. VLLA . IACTVRA . DOMVER1T. GENTESQVE . BARBARAS PRIMVS . INDICIO . SVBEGERIT. This palace is built all upon ftrong pillars and arches, fo that from the front you may drive a coach under it, quite thro' into the garden, which is on the back-fide the palace. The Palace Borghefe is very large ; the fhape of it fomewhat Pal. Bo.*g- refembles that of an harpficord. The principal part of it is hefe- built about a court, which has two portico's, one above another, with antique granite pillars, Doric and Ionic, and feveral antique ftatues. On one fide it is extended to a very great length, with a vifto through all the apartments, to a fountain at a diftance from the' palaces : 9 4 ROME. PAL. BORGHESE. palace: this fountain ftands upon another perfon's ground j but the prince Borghefe was at the expence of making it, that his profpect might terminate upon a beautiful object. A bare catalogue only of the pictures that are in this palace would fill a large volume. I mall mention only a very few of them. A celebrated picture of Domenichini. The Ripofo di Caccia ; 'tis of Diana and her nymphs repofing themfelves after hunt- ing. Csfar Borgia and Macchiavel, an admirable picture of Titi- an ; by fome call'd a Raphael. A Laft Supper by Titian. A Prefentation by Giacomo Baffan, excellently colour'd, has a vaft force of light and lhadow ; and the figures are gen- teel. A Magdalen by Han. Caracci. Albani's Loves, the round. The originals of thofe multi- tudes of prints we fee of them in England and elfewhere. There is a fet of the fame at Bologna, original too : i. e. a repetition of the fame defign by the fame matter; a practice frequent in favourite fubjects. A Crucifixion, faid to be of Mich. Angeloj of which they tell the ftory, already more than once mention'd. The Graces hood-winking Cupid ; a fine picture, by Titian ; it has a glafs over it. A ritratto of Titian's School-matter, painted by Titian him- felf; a moft admirable picture; great force and vivacity ; and a lovely chiaro ofcuro. The Temptation of S. Anthony, by Han. Caracci. I think my Lord Burlington has one of the fame. The three Graces, by Raphael, after the antique. Ch rift carried to Burial, by the fame. The Marriage of S. Catharine, by Parmegiano, excellent. A ritratto of Paul the Fifth [Borghefe] by Marcello Pro- vencialis di Cento 1609; a wonderful performance in Mofaic. The bits of ftone are exceflive final!, fo as to exprefs even fome fingle hairs of the beard, &c. and to mark out other the mi- nuted touches. And yet the general parts are kept broad and cpen, and well colour'd. One would think fuch a piece of work ROME. PAL. PAL A VIC INI. *9S work would take up a man's life, or difable his eyes for an- other like attempt. I have feen feveral of his performances, but this I think much the moft capital. In the chamber where the prince fleeps after dinner, are pic- tures of naked figures, and fome of them a little lafcivious. There is Adam and Eve by Giovanni Bellino. Leda, by Leonardo da Vinci. Several Venus's of Titian. One of which is that fo often re- peated, where fome women are feen at a diftance, in another room, at a cheft, as if looking for fome linnen to cover her. The great duke has one, if not more of thefe, and we have feen others of them elfewhere. There is a gallery, not large, but very richly adorn'd with marble, ftucco and gilding : it is pannell'd with large looking- glafs, on which are painted foliage and flowers, and Cupids playing among them, by Ciro Ferri. In this gallery are two fine marble fountains. Along it are feveral heads of emperors and confuls, of porphyry, and other ftones, fet in niches. There is a parlour (with a large table of fome fine fort of alabafler in the middle) all painted round with landfkapes by Giovanni Francefco Bolognele. It were endlefs to enter into further particulars of this moft rich and magnificent palace. The prince was fent viceroy to Naples after we came away. He is elteem'd a man of great abi- lities and worth. In the palace of the marquis Palavicini is a double ritratto : Pa!. PalavS- 'tis of Carlo Maratti, painting that of the marquis. cini - The bufto of the marquis, by Camillo Rofconi, (the bed: fculptor now in Italy ;) and the four feafons, reprefented by little boys, in white marble, by the fame. A great many other paintings by Carlo Marat, and many of Gafpar Pouffin; particularly a very fine fea-ftorm, with Jonah and the Whale. A naked Apollo crowning a youth playing on a fort of a harp- fichord, the firings fet upright ; a very fine pi&ure, by Andrea Sacchi. This picture was once copied by Pietro da Pietris, who was himfelf a great mafter. _ A Prefentation, finely painted, in the chapel, by Pietro da Pietris. I I» 296 ROME, PAL CHI G I. In this palace is very rich furniture of velvet, embroidery, &c. Some of the paintings andfculptures of this palace have been fince brought into England. Pal. Chigi. The Palazzo Chigi has four lower rooms, all full of ftatues, and fome cf them exceeding good. A very fine Bacchante. A Silenus, efteem'd the bell of any that is known of that ftabjeft. A dying Cleopatra, fomewhat different from that of the Bel- vedere, &c. A Bacchus, drunk. A Diogenes, cum pene inter digitos, quafi miSiurus. It was part of the character of that philofopher, and others of his left, truly Cynic, to negleft and defpife all rules of decency, fo as not to ftick at doing any of the moft indecent aftions even in the moft public!; places, and in the moft open manner. Several Gladiators ; one particularly good. A head of Caligula, in porphyry. Tuccia, the veftal virgin, carrying water from the Tiber to the temple of Veila in a fieve, to prove her chaftity, which was called in queftion. One may obferve in this ftatue an ex- preffion of fomuch modefty, accompanied withfuchan affur'd in- nocence, as I have not feen in any reprefentation whatfoever. I faw in the Capitol, a picture painted by Carlo Marat, of the fame fubjeft. Tho' his be a fine picture, one may venture to fay however, that 'tis pity he had not confider'd this ftatue, (to which he could be no ftranger) before he let about that per- formance. There is a print extant of the pifture I fpeak of, en- grav'd by Giacomo Freij. This palace is very large and noble, has a world of pictures, and very rich furniture of all forts. Pal. Verofpi. -j^ e p a ] ace Verofpi (next door to this) has many fine ftatues, one of them ftands full in view of the entrance from the ftreet ; 'tis a Hercules with a torch in his hand, fearing the necks of the Hydra whence he had cut off the heads. There is fome good painting in the cieling of a portico juft behind this ftatue. iv. Plom- In the Palazzo Piombino is the ftatue of the dying Mirmil- bln0 ' lo, well known by the copies and prints. It is an admirable ftatue, ROME. PAL. SANTA CROCE. 297 ftatuc, but the fingers of the left hand look too regular, like organ-pipes. In the fame room are two baflb- relievo's, faid to be of Mich. Angelo; one of them reprefents Mofes ftriking the rock. At the Palazzo Santa Croce are fome fine fculptures. There Pal - Santa is a frieze in bafib-relievo, an apparatus for the facrifice f c,oce - Suovetaurilia, or Solitaurilia, on occafion of finding the Sibyls books in the fepulchre of Numa Pompilius, Monte Janiculo. This facrifice was moil ufually made to Mars. It is reprefented thrice on the Trajan Pillar; it is feen alio on Conftantine's Arch, and elfewhere. And the fevers! animals, the boar, the lheep, and the bull, are always, in fuch as 1 have obferved, led to facrifice in the fame order they are named in, except in this I am fpeaking of, at the Palazzo Santa Croce, where the order is inverted ; Fabretti, taking notice of which, and of fome other differences between this and other reprefentations of the fame folemnity, fays, it rather exhibits a preparation for the So- litaurilia, than a full celebration of the facrifice. — Praparatio- nem quondam potius quam Solitaurilia rite injlrucla exhibere dicen- dum eft. The performance in this bafib-relievo is admirable. When thefe facrifices were called Soiitaurilia, they were un- derftood to confift of animals which were all mafculine and intire; i. e. not caftrated ; k. a boar, a ram, and a bull; the etymology being taken ab integritate genitalium ; for folum, in the Ofcari * language, is faid to have fignified the fame as to- * The old turn, integrum, folidum ; and tauri, in the old Latin and Greek ( Cam r aniiin: too, the part taken away by caftration. F. Fejli Jntiq. Rom. province^ ex Dempjlerii emendatione, 1. iv. cap. xvii. Campania. Fabretti deduces a reafon for leading the animals to facri- fice in this order from Varro, lib. ii. cap. iv. de Re Ruji. who tells us that fwine were the firft animals that were facrificed, and that from them (as fays Fabretti) facrifices even took their etymology. A fuillo pecore immolandi initium primum Jump- turn. And, Sus Grace dicitur i\, dim Uti f , ab illo verba diSlus, quod dicitur fc s , f> quod ejl immolare. There is in- deed a plain relation between 8ifr/« a boar or fow, and that, to * facrifice; but it feems, by the words of Varro, that the ety- mology ought to change place, and that 9vw did not take its Q^_q origin 298 ROME. PAL. SPADA. origin from (Wt«, but rather gave that name to the animal, becaufe flain in facrifice. Ovid gives us his reafon why this animal was the firft that E'as facrificed. Pa'. Spada. Met. xv. , prima futatur Hojiia fits meruiffe mori, quiafemina pando Eriierit rojlro, fpemque interceperit anni. the delving fow, The firft offender, felt the fatal blow, For fpoiling of the crop, to death decreed, Murd'rine the harveft in the new-fown feed. By Var. Hands. A Bacchanal. A Bacchante towards the middle of it is a moft genteel figure ; and all the reft are very fine. Trimalcio, with his Gang waiting on him towards his Bed, fotnc bringing eatables, fome playing on mufical inftruments, according to Petronius Arbiter's defcription. Another reprefentation of this gentleman is to be feen in the Admit anda ; taken from a baffo-relievo in the Villa Mon- talta. The famous vafe at Pifa is of the fame fubjedt. Here are bufts of Seneca, Aratus, Alcibiades, [io call'd, but not like others of him] Annius Verus, &c. In the Palazzo Spada, is the great ftatue of Pompey moftly naked ; the right hand is extended, the left holds a looie dra- pery up to his fide ; a lhort fword tuck'd up among it. Wh-n this ftatue was found, it lay fo, that the head was on one man's ground, the body on another's. He on whofe -round the bodv lay, claim'd it, as having fo much the greater part • the other claim'd it as having the more noble part, and that which {hewed whom it reprefented : each having thus a pretence, he to whom the matter was referr'd, adjudg'd to each the part that lav on his own ground, io the head was fawn off and given to one of the claimants, the reft to the other. The Pope hearing of the wife dccifioD; bought of each of them his {eve- ral flure, and had them join'd again. Tins is Ficaroms ac- ROME. PAL. GUALTIERI. 299 -count of the matter : and thus he accounted to us for a vifible team that goes acrofs the neck. There are other fine things in this palace; fome antique bafib- relievo's. Perfeus watering Pegafus. Morpheus with poppies about his head, white marble. He is generally feen in black marble, as more alluding to night. A Bambino Romano (as they call it) col Mantello; a Roman boy, with a cloak. A boy with a beretta [cap] who ferv'd at the Bacchanal feafts, with a fkin over his moulders. A Venus, cloath'd, and Cupid. Seneca fitting. Scipio Africanus, and Septimius Severus, buffo. In a little gallery are fome figures in ftucco, faid to be by Dan. da Volterra. Ganymede, &c. painted on the cieling, feems to be of the fchool of Mich. Angelo, tho' call'd there Giovanni Bellini. Another room, ftucco as above, and paintings in the Flo- rentine manner. In the great gallery is a raoft admirable ritratto of cardinal Spada, a whole-length figure, fitting ; by Guido. The Rape of Helena, by the fame. Maflaniello's Revolution in Naples, by Mich. Ang. da Bat- talia. Two fine Claude Lorains. Other landfkapes by Gafp. Poufiin. Several ritrats by Titian ; and other good pictures. There is a fine view from this gallery of the Fonte Janiculo. The palace of cardinal Gualtieri, tho' not very remarkable Pal. Gual- upon other accounts, (at leaft fo much of it as we faw) is a ma- tier ' - gazine of learning and curiofities. Befides the library, which confifts of four large rooms, there is a fuite of eighteen more fill'd with variety of curious things of feveral forts. In the firft are bufts and infcriptions upon marble, fepulchral and other. Upon an ojfuarhim (of which there are great num- bers) is writ an adjuration that you do not violate it, in thefe words— PER DEOS SUPEROS INFEROSQUE TE ROGO NE OSSUARIA VELIS VIOLARE. M. CALPHURNIUS. Q_q 2 M. 300 ROME. PAL. GUALTIERI. M. L. SULLA CALPHURNIA. M. L. FAUSTA LIBERTA. There is an antique baflb-relievo of Ariftotle in profile; he has a long beard, with a Phrygian bonnet on his head. Under it is written apistoteahs. In the fecond, idols and other antique figures in copper, marble, &c. Among them is the Judgment of Paris in cop- per ; it is fmall, and only two of the goddeffes are there. In the third, antique instruments, fome ufed in facrifice, fome on other publick occaiions, and fome in common life. There is a fragment of an old triumphal chariot. In the fourth, urns, fome Greek, in terra cotta, found at Nola. Several old Etrufcan urns, fome with bailb-relievo's. Some glafs veffels which were within the marble urns, with figures done in gold on the infide. Alfo vota, fome in marble, others in terra cotta, See. which they hung up in their temples : heads, hands, feet, and other parts. Among them is a Natura Fceminina. Two little pieces of antique frefco, Diana and Mars, found at Tivoli. In the fifth, curiofities antico-moderne. A Genius, antique, frefco, fomewhat after the manner that they defcribe the che- rubs now-a-days. A ritratto of MafTaniello. In the fixth, dimes of feveral forts of earth, and modern urns. In the feventh, mixt curiofities. An antique Venus, in ame- thyft; 'tis a butt, fixteen inches high, twelve broad. An Europa painted by Guido. In the eighth, curiofities, moftly modern, kept in cabinets. There is an antique Bacchanal in ivory. In the ninth, Indian, Perfian, and other idols. In the tenth, China ware, which when firft plac'd there, was undoubtedly a great rarity, and may poffibly be mod of it a greater now, fince they have for fo many years made that work far fhort of what they did formerly. Our ladies know how to put a juft value upon old China. 5 In ROME. PAL. MATTHEI. 301 In the eleventh, great variety of mathemati.cal inflruments. In the twelfth, globes, fpheres, charts, &c. In the thirteenth, optical inflruments of various forts. In the fourteenth, anatomical curiofities. In the fifteenth, mummies, crocodiles, rimes, feveral land- animals ; and other natural curiofities. In the fixteenth, corals in great variety, very curious; and fliells of beautiful colours and fhapes. In the feventeenth, all forts of marble. In the eighteenth, ores of all forts, with other minerals. Petrified fkulls; one with a viper twifted in it, which is petrified too. This cardinal was, when living, the protector of the Englifh nation : for all nations have their protectors among the cardinals. At the Palazzo Matthei are fbme very fine fculptures. p al. Mat&*f, Ifidis Pompa, b. rel. It reprefents a procefiion for an JE- gyptian facrifice to that goddefs. A print of it is to be feen in the Admiranda, N J 16. Some ftatues of emperors, naked, in poflures of gladiators. A baf. relievo of the Prastorian foldiers confulting, drefied in fhort tunicks, and having upon their arms long bucklers. The temple of Jupiter Fulminans, and a bull adorn'd for fa- crifice, with the popce, and other minifiers. A noted bafTo-relievo of Venus newly fprung out of the feaj- fhe is held up on a concha maritia between two Tritons. This, with the other parts of the fame bafTo-relievo, is to be feen in the Admiranda, N° 30. So I forbear adding any more about it. On the flairs, are huntings of lions, &c. in bafTo-relievo,. inferted in the wall, &c. In an open gallery looking into the court is an ancient Sar- cophagus, with a reprefentation upon it of a vintage, and of the facrifice of a goat to Priapus. Priapus holds fruits in the lap of his fhirt, with a circumflance ufual in the reprefenta- tion of that deity. Several b. relievo's : Meleager hunting. The Rape of Proferpina. The three Graces, with Cupid and Pfyche embracing. There 1,-oz Pal. Giufti. tihni. ROME. PAL. GIUSTINIANI. There are two pillars, the capitals whereof are bafkets, with eagles at top. Thefe bafkets muft cer f ain!y be an ailufior to what isfaid to be the original of the Corinthian capital, w ch is very well known. In the publick Piazza near this palace is a fountain with good figures in brafs, by Carlo Siciliano. The Palazzo Giuftiniani is another of the palaces of great rank: it has a world of pictures; and for number of ftatues and baffo-relievo's does at leaft equal any in Rome. The keeper of the Barberine library lhew'd us two large volumes of prints after them ; which to me feem'dbut mode- rately perform'd. There are feveral of the lame in England. One. gallery is fet round with a double row of ftatues. There are indeed forne indifferent ones among them 5 but others very good. A head of Vitellius, good. A buft of Julius Ccefar, with feveral others of the emperors. A figure with a Phrygian mitre : as I remember 'tis an Har- pocrates. The famous ftatue of Minerva, moft highly valued, as being the fame that was worihipp'd in her temple [where is now the S. Maria fopra Minerva.] They fay the youth of Rome us'd to come and kifs the hand of this ftatue before they went to their fchools. A veftal virgin. The upper part of this ftatue is much better than the lower; the drapery hangs down from her mid- dle perpendicular, and looks like the flutings of a pillar. Hercules with the dragon; and apples in his hand. /Efculapius with the ferpent. There aie two or three more of thefe. A Bacchante. The defign is very fine, but the execution not correct ; therefore probably a copy, tho' antique, from fome noted original, which is now loft. Diana, with a dog, as in the aft of (hooting; but the bow is broken off. A fine buft of Apollo ; under it the harp and tripod, fmall. A fine head of Jupiter, largej the manner very grand. Another buft of Apollo, a fine face. The countenance of thefe Apollo's, and many elfewhere, have more of female de- licacy ROME. PAL. GIUSTINIANI. licacy than what is common even to young men. The hair of thefe is rais'd like that of women. The Apollo in the Bel- vedere is very much fo. A young Marcus Aurelius, a whole figure. Two fcenical masks, fine. — There are an infinity of thefe feen on the antique lamps, and fome exceflively comical; but thefe I fpeak of, are in a fine tafte. A fine Bacchante with grapes. Cleopatra, with the viper about her arm, in the pofiure of Venus coming out of the fea. — A copy of this is over-againft it, by Bernini, as they told us, with the addition of a fimll cup in her hand. Bufts of Pindar, Homer, Socrates, and others. Meleager, a whole figure, excellent. A large buck-goat ; a ncble ftyle, for fuch a fubjecl.. A ram, with drapery on his buttocks. A prieflefs, in Parian marble. In an out-place at the end of the gallery, is a vafe, with fi- gures in bafio-relievo upon it dancing, and one fitting under,, playing on a flute. In the apartments, there is one room furnifh'd all with pic- tures of Raphael, and his mailer Pietro Perugino, as they fay, but I doubtedmuch of many of thofe theycall'd Raphael's. In- deed fome are hung at fuch a height, that one could not well judge of them. They are moftly Madonna's. In another room is a picture of Titian, of that favourite de- fign which he repeated fo often, the Woman with the Look- ing-glafs. S. Paul the Hermit, and S. Antonio, byGuido; a raven bringing them bread. The Angel fetching S. Peter out of prifon, by Galardo Fiamingo; a light as of a torch comes in at the door of the prifon. A piece taken out of a wall, painted in oil upon plaifler; fcmewhat in the manner of Parmc-giano : it represents a wo- man's head in the middle, an old heaci on one fide, and a boy on the other. £ me of the ftatues in the apartments are, Marfias excoria- 3°3 te and Apolio with his fkin. A Hygieia. A Diana 304 ROME. PAL. GIUSTINIANI. A Diana Ephefia Multimammea, with animals. Cybele is often exprefs'd much in this manner; the name they give her, when fo reprefented, is, r^vtuiKx oiim, [all-various na- ture,] but (he has the diftinguifhing addition of a cattle or tower on her head, figures made up of thefe compofitions which join things wholly heterogeneous merely becaufe emble- matical, are no way agreeable to the eye. Two centaurs, a male and a female. A butt of Innocent the Tenth. I think it was in one of the apartments of this palace that I faw a buft of a woman, which, inftead of a reprefentation of growing hair, had a perfect ftone peruque very much in the fhapeof one of our bob peruques, and moveable, fo as to be taken off, or put on at pleafure. In an open gallery at the top of the great flair-cafe, is the famous alto-relievo of Amalthea, giving young Jupiter goats milk to drink out of the horn of Achelous. The goats are play- ing about the rock on which the Jupiter fits, and behind him is a young fatyr playing on his pipes. This is in the Admiran- da, N° 26. Bellori, in his notes upon it, reckons the eagles which are at top as parerga, only put there for ornament : but, fure they have fome meaning; the eagle being the bird of Jupiter [Jovis ales,] here is a young brood of them atten- dant upon their new-born matter; and the ferpent, which is there, may pofiibly reprefent Achelous in his former (hape ; who (as ftories tell us) was firft a fsrpent before he became a bull. There are other ftatues. A fine Apollo, with the harp and plectrum. Titus the emperor. Septimius Severus. M. Aurelius, good. On the fecond flair-cafe is an admirable Apollo in alto-relievo. This is etteem'd one of the fineft things in this palace. A woman in bafib-relievo fleeping. There is one in the print of Raphael's Peft fomewhat like it. A figure on a panther, with a garland of vine-leaves about the head, &c. An infeription under, Serapidi & Ifidi facrunt. In the court, is an old bafib-relievo on an altar, Her xuli fa- ctum, the Labours of Hercules, and a facrifke to him. A Roma Triumphans. A Roman ROME. PAL, COLONNA. *9S A Roman conful fitting. Two Fauni on each fide of an altar. Two figures call'd gladiators j one has the other under him. The fwords (if they had any) are broke. A fine Hygieia, with the ferpent and cup. On one fide the Piazza de' S. Apoftoli, ftands the Palazzo Pal. Colonna. Colonna, which by the appearance it makes on the outfide, does not give you any reafon to expect the beauty, magnificence and elegance you find within. There are many noble apartments, and finely adorn'd every way. But, above all the reft, is that moft beautiful gallery, which furpafles all I ever faw, not for length, (for it has little more of that than to give it the denomination of a gallery) but for the agreeable proportion, and graceful difpofition of all the parts of the vafe * itfelf ; and the richnefs, the fine choice, *. A = they and proper adjuftment of the ornaments. ofthe'Aner^ They lead you to it artfully enough, thro' a narrow blind corridore enlighten'd only by gelofie, as they call 'em, fmall lattices along one fide ; which, like a difcord in mufick before a full harmonious dole, heightens the furprize, when you find yourfelf immediately in one of the moft glorious galleries in the world. The deling is vaulted, and painted in frefco : the fubjecl: is the hiftory and exploits of feveral of that noble family, particularly the victory of Marc. Antonio Colonna over the Turks in the Levant. The frames of the windows are of marble, and between them are pilafters of giallo antico, a fort of yellowifh marble, highly efteem'd ; the order is, the Compofite : the capitals are of white marble. Military trophies of ftucco gilt run up each fide of thefe pilafters. The cornice, which goes round the top, is all gilt likewife. At proper diftances are pannels for pic- tures, fill'd with thofe of the beft mafters. The floor is, of all I ever faw, the fineft in all refpedts. The choice of the feveral forts of marble, which makes the pavement, is judicious and happy, the feveral colours fet off one another perfectly well : there is juft fo much variety of forts as to di- vert the eye, not to confound and diftracl: it: a fault which I have often obferv'd in the mixture of too many forts of R r marble. 3 o6 ROME. PAL. COLONN A. marble. The feveral pannels or compartiments, into which it is divided, are fine and large, the defign is great, and difpos'd with a noble gufto. Lovely marble tables, with antique flames, bulls, and other valuable and rich furniture, are plac'd in the moft agree- able manner all along on each fide. At each end is a fort of lobby, or entrance, of the fame- breadth with the gallery, and adorn'd after the fame manner, with paintings on the deling, &c. Thefe have their commu- nication with the gallery by a large opening, arched at the top, and grae'd with magnificent pillars, of the fame materials and order with the pilafters I mention'd before. By the time you have pafs'd through this beautiful gallerv, and are got to the further end of the farthtft lobby, and turn back to take a review of it, they have open'd a door at the other end, beyond the place where you firft enter'd, which difcovers a part of the garden, where as you at once look thro' the lobby you (land in, the gallery, the lobby at the other end, and the gar- den, you have a fountain there, which terminates the view. There is in. this palace another gallery, (a little one) all paint- ed with geographical charts, fomewhat in the manner of that very long one in the Vatican. In a room adjoining is a bed, in the form of a concha ma- rina, [fea-fhell] with four fea-horfes at the corners, Nymphs and Zephyrs at the fides, with flying Cupids above. They are of wood, all gilt over. This bed was made at the birth of the prefent prince Colonna, for the princefs his mother to receive her company upon that occafion, where fhe fate like a Tethys or an Amphitrite. In one apartment are filver flower-pots, with baffo-relievo's^ finely done, after deflgns of Raphael. At the top of the ilairs, facing the door of the great hall,, is a head of Medufa in porphyry, which was found in the; ruins of Nero's golden houfe, to which they have given this Infcription, In hac aured domo memoriam Neronis habes, nonfaSia-,-. Medufa caput, non da?nna -, monumentum huic Jolo, datum flacare Medufas, nonferre Nerones. In ROME. PAL. COLONNA. " In this golden houfe, you have a memorial of Nero, not " his actions : the head of Medufa, not her mifchiefs ; a mo- *' nument, that to this ground it is granted, to make Medufa's " harmlefs, and not to fuffer Nero's." Befides the numerous fine paintings, which are in the feveral apartments above, there are a great many in the fummer- apartments below, with ftatues, bufts, baffo -relievo's, and plea- fant fountains. One of thefe apartments is painted in frefco with landfkapes, by Gafp. Poufin : and another, with fea-ftorms, by Tem- pefta. There is likewife a wreath'd pillar of rojjo-anlico with little figures and foliage. Among the b. relievo's, is that moft curious one of Homer's apotheofis or confecration. It is to be ken in the Admiranda^ toward the latter end ; fo I forbear enlarging on it here. There are two or three afcents of gardens behind this palace. Here were the baths of Conflantine, (as has been faid) ; and part of an old aqueduct ferves now as a wall to part of the garden. Here was likewife a temple dedicated to the fun, of which fome vail fragments are now to be feen in one of the upper gardens. A piece of a cornice, with the modiglions, &c. al- moft twelve foot fquare, all of one piece. A piece of a Corin- thian capital of a vafl fize; part of this was lately faw'd off. Part of an architrave and frieze, both of one ftone, almoft fixteen foot long, all of white marble. At the acceffion of Innocent XIII. this prince made a mufical entertainment in his garden. The mufick was upon two bridges which lead from the palace over a publick flreet to the garden. The orange-trees were hung with lamps put in the hollow'd rinds of oranges, and ftuck among the branches, as growing fruit. During the intervals of the mufick, the fireworks were played off at each end of the garden. Thefe princes, the Colonna's, by virtue of their office of con- ftable [contejiabile, or comes jlabilis, as I have fomewhere feen it in Latin] affift at fome of the publick ceremonies, at the right hand of the pope. 3°7 Rr 2 This 3 o8 Pal. Brac- ti.mo. ROME. PAL. BRACCIANO. This is a very noble family, and has produced fcveral popes, cardinals, and generals, whofe ritrats are hung in the great hall on each fide the baldachino, or canopy of ftate. Befides other great revenues, the whole town of Marino is theirs, where they have another fine palace. In the fame Piazzo lie- S. Apoftoli, oppofite to the palace I have been fpeaking of, is that of the Duca di Bracciano, built by Bernini, lately a fingular treafure of paintings, as it is ftill of fculptures, with which the fummer-apartments, coniifting of four ground-rooms, are finely fill'd. The paintings were purchas'd by the then regent of France, and carried away while we were in Rome. Such a beautiful fight of Corregio's I never faw, as were in this collection : — but, as thefe, and the reft of thofe admirable pictures, have now ceas'd to belong to the palace I am here fpeak- ing of, I (hall not enter into particulars of them : — they are now to be feen nearer home : and to a true lover of fuch things, it were well worth a voyage to France to fee fuch fingular ma- iler-pieces : feveral of them, they fay, did belong to our king Charles the Firft, and were, after his death, bought and car- ried hence by the queen of Sweden, and after her deceafe, came into the hands of the family Odefchalchi [now dukes di Bracciano.] — They are now got pretty well on their way back again towards England, where every Engliuh virtuofo cannot but wifli to fee them fafely lodg'd. I fhall only mention one of the pictures, which is faid to be done by Mich. Angelo, and panes for an original defign of his : but it is not fo. — ■ I accidentally obferv'd in the duke of Par- ma's collection an antique Cameo juft in the fame attitude: it is the rape of Ganymede : it is a fmall picture, and finely per- formed. I have feen a larger one in England of the fame de- fign, and faid to be of Mich. Angelo likewife ; but 'tis nothing fo good as that I am fpeaking of. Among the ftatues, there is a dying [or fleeping] Cleopatra; much in the attitude of that in the Belvedere, and Villa de Me- dicis. Julius Ca:far ftanding in his facerdotal habit, as Pontifex Maximus. A. Faunus with his pipe. A bull and a cow, antique, and moft excellently perform d. Whether ROME. PAL. BRACCIANO. 3°9 de.ida. Whether this may be taken as a proof of their excellence, I know not ; but a dog that was with us, and was remarkable for his fubtlety and cunning, was deceiv'd by them as much as the birds were by the grapes of Zeuxis ; for he bark'd eagerly, See the Ad - as it he was going to fatten upon them. Thefe are faid to have been made in allufion to the cow and bull that drew the plow, with which the foundation of Rome was mark'd out. This ceremony in the marking out the foundations of cities was taken from the old Tufcans, whofe country, Etruria, is called the Mother of Superftition, \Arnobius adv. Gent. 1. i.j The method of it was this : they yoked a bull and a cow toge- ther, the bull on the right, the cow on the left, or inner fide : it was called inner, becaufe the courfe the plow took, was to- wards the left, by that means turning the turf to the left or inner, and leaving the furrow on the right or outer fide : the compafs being thus mark'd out, the foundation of the wall was laid within it. He that held the plow was cinStus ritu Ga- bino, " girt after the Gabine manner ;" which, according to fome, was with the toga [gown] thrown over the left fhoulder, the right being bare; according to others, part of it covered the head, and the reft was girt about the body, and drawn up and fhorten'd by the cincture. [See Servius upon the fifth and le- venth ^neids.] Fabretti, from an old Greek MS. gives us an account of a conceit which was couch'd under the yoking the cow and bull, in this manner. " That the male was yoked on the fide to- " ward the country, the female on the fide towards the town; " as denoting that the males mould be terrible to foreigners, " the females fruitful to the inhabitants; fci T « s ph Sffivm vols In the next room are, Apollo and eight of the Mufes ; the ninth is in the Capitol. The Mufes are antique, but not of the higheft tafie. The Apollo is modern. Behind his back is Pegafus, painted in frefco on the wall. Between each of the Mufes are antique pillars, of feveral curious forts of marble, with bufts on the tops of them. In the following rooms are, Clitia, with the fun-flower into which fhe was transform'd. 4 Two 3io Pal. Rofpigli ofi. ROME. PAL. ROSPIGLIOSI. Two beautiful figures, called by fome, Caftor and Pollux, by others, two Hymens, by reafon of the torches in their hands. By thefe ftands a little figure, holding an egg in her hand ; which thofe of the former opinion call Leda; thofe of the latter, fuppofe it to be a Lucina, or fome goddefs presiding over women in child-bearing j and that the egg is no other than an emblem of fecundity. A moft beautiful Venus, in the attitude of that of Medicis, cloath'd with a delicate thin drapery, moft agreeably conform- ing with the naked, and even (hewing thro' it the form of the parts it covers. Another beautiful Venus, as coming out of the bath. One of the Ptolemy's, king of Egypt. A faun, with a young goat on his back, admirable. A round altar of white marble, with a moft curious bailo- relievo upon it, reprefenting a facrifice to Bacchus. It is to be feen in the Admiranda, (ol. 44 and 45. There is the fame defign, but with the addition of one faun upon a large and beautiful vafe, in the Villa Giuftiniani. This has more marks of age, and is probably the original, but the other is antique too, and admirably perform'd. In the palace of duke Rofpigliofi, is a fine picture of Nic. Pouffin, reprefenting a dance, and Time playing on a harp. A Crucifixion, by Guido; with a fine marble buft under it. S. Peter in Mofaic, by Ph. Cocchus. The guardaroba told us that a thoufand crowns had been lent upon it. There are fome antique paintings, but of no great ftyle : — ■ they look like Indian. On the cieling are painted the Rapes of Jupiter and Europa, Neptune and Theophane, Pluto and Proferpina. There is a fine bafon of verd antique two yards diameter; and a table of fine oriental alabafter. At the garden-houfe, on the outfide, are fome good antique baflb-relievo's, huntings of lions, &c. On the cieling of the portico is the famous Aurora of Gui- do, fo well known by the copies and prints of it that are in England. At the ends of the fame portico are the Triumphs of Love and of Virtue; by Tempefta. Within ROME. PAL. PAMPH IL 10. 311 Within the apartments of the garden-houfe are, An An iromeda by Guido, the fame as the duke of Devon- shire's ; the colouring is warmer than that of his grace's : but I know not whether 'tis better for that or no, or whether a fomewhat colder colouring do not full as well fuit a figure in fuch a fituation ; expos'd naked, chain'd to a rock in the fea, expecting every moment to be devoured by a horrible mpnftcr, which advances towards her with dreadful wide-open'd jaws : the colour of the fea is turn'd blackifh. Sampfon pulling down Dagon's Temple upon the Phili- ilines. David with Goliah's Head. In this piece Saul is tearing his garment as in vexation to fee David win the hearts of the people. Adam and Eve; he is giving her leaves to cover her naked- nefs. The Adam and Eve are by Domenichinij the animals by Piola. S. Peter Martyr, by Preziani. He is writing Credo on the ground with his finger dipt in his blood. Rinaldo and Armida, by Albani. In the great and noble palace of prince Pamphiiio are abun-Pal. Pamphi- dance of fine paintings, by Titian, Han. Caracci, Guido, Lan- lio - franc, Pietro Perugino, and others, which I will not trouble the reader with particularizing. There are portraits of the two famous lawyers, Bartolo and Baldo, by Raphael. A very fine S. Catharine, by Benvenuto da Garofalo. The ritratto of Innocent X. who rais'd this family, by Don Diego Velafques, [a Spaniard] half-length, very boldly painted. Another of Donna Olympia, that pope's iifter-in-law, fa- vourite, and governefs, by Scipio Gaetano. For a full ac- count of this famous lady, fee her life written by the Abbate Gualdi. Among thofe by Han. Caracci, is a Suianna and the Elders,. the fame defign as that of the duke of Devonshire's. Two very fine and large Claude Lorains : one of them repre- fents the Setting-fun ; a moil lively repofe ! Other landfkapes by Gafpar Pouffin, Paul Brill ; and fome moft elaborate brughells. — But of thefe, enough. Over 3 I2 Roman Col- lege. Cardinal Al- bani's collet tion. ROME. ROMAN COLLEGE. Over againft this palace is the Roman College [Jefuits,] where are two long galleries, meeting in a right angle, with repositories of curiofities and antiquities from one end to the other. There are a good many trifles among them, but the greateit pirt are very curious. The collection was fiift begun by father Kircher, but much increafed by father Bonanni, who has published a large account of them in feveral books. There are great numbers of urns, infcriptions, baflb-relie- vo's, fepulchral lamps, and lachrymatory veffeis : abundance of *v <*.$■■!} na.T a or vota to the heathen deities, in marble, and other materials. The habits and weapons of war of feveral remote nations. Initruments for facrince, and other utenfils of the antient Romans. The habits of all the very numerous religious orders of both fexes that are at this day, very prettily and freely painted, much about the fize of the prints that are done after them, and pub- li(h'd in father Bonanni's books upon that fubjecl. An infinity almoft of other curiofities, artificial and natural, which are defcrib'd and explain'd by that learned father, in his feveral volumes. He is communicative and obliging, more in- deed than a man almoft worn out with labours and years could be expected to be. Cardinal Albani's collection of ftatues, bufts, and baflb- relievo's, is very valuable. They are (I think) the property of cardinal Aleflandro, the younger brother, for there are two of them, both cardinals, nephews to Clement XI. The elder is Annibale, who was made camerlingo [chamberlain] in the time of that pope. It is the cuftom in the court of Rome for a new-elected pope, foon after his acceflion, to raife to the degree of cardinal, a nephew of that pope who had made him one So Don Aleflandro Albini (for fo he was call'd before) was rais'd to that dignity by Innocent XIII. who himfelf was rais'd to it by Cle- ment XI. Some of the things I noted in the fine collection I have mention'd, are as follows. Otho, a head ; rare, as are his medals, a natural confequence of fo fhort a reign. A zr/ac£- t/u/ a£ ^u/. j$i%. $u//a tZurgOs. J?j ¥ #. SiM^/itm. ^ 3*3 J 3 42,1 ^iKl^fyr/l^ ROME. CARD. ALBANIA COLLECTION. A Casftiarius, with a defence on his head reprefenting iron- p'ates, croffing one another; or, perhaps, thongs of leather : this is efteem'd rare too. One making a will [baffo-relievo } J a reprefentation of the fame perfon's head, with a round frame about it, in the fame piece. Perfeus taking Andromeda by the hand, to affift her defcent from the rock, the fea-monfter lying dead under; a fine baffo- relievo. There are others of the fame defign in Rome 5 one I remem- ber particularly, at one end of that baffo-relievo, at the Palaz- zo Matthei, already mention'd ; wherein is the Venus newly fprung out of the fea. Here is likewife a Copia, /Egyptian, a whole-length figure. An urn of oriental alabafter fix'd within a large vafe, with fome cement at the bottom. A boy, with a great old mafk on his head, his hands wrap'd in the beard. — This was found at Antium. Antilthenes, a whole-length ftatue. Two bufts of Plato. Alexander with a helmet, and armour ; fine ornaments on them. Pyrrhus, in alto-relievo. Pudicitia, [Co call'd by Ficaroni] with a garland of bays, the berries on it; her hands wrap'd in the drapery; finely pre- ferv'd. Venus, the fame as that de Medicis; the upper part antique and fine; the lower, modern. A buft of Sappho : the great duke has another of her very like this. J Ifis, or a prieftefs of hers, a whole figure, iEpyptian, with the Jijlrum in her right hand, and a vafe for tiaZ aqua lufiraHs in her left. The figure of a Jiftrmn is here prefented, as it is feen in the ftatue I fpeak of: the crofs-wyres were loofe, which they fhook backward and forward to make a rattling noife. The great duke has a real antique Jijlrum at Florence, in much the fame figure with this. V2 S f Ifis 3 T 4 ROME. CARD. ALBANFs COLLECTION. I/is & irato fer'iat mea lumina fijlro, Durnmada vel cacus teneam, quos abnego, nutitmos. Let Ifis' angry fftrum finite my eyes, So I, tho' blind, may keep the forfworn prize. niNAAPOC*, a buft EniKoxros*. Juv. The face of this is a good deal like wha.t we in Greek let ters, as I have written ihem. • Thefe names are under the re- r r „ fpeftive boas, fee of Socrates. ASKAfllTJA&HC* Marc. Aurelius Anatelloru Scipio Africanus. Diogenes. Euripides : two of them. Homer : four of them. All thefe are fomewhat like the famous Farnefe. — One of them comes pretty near it in good- nefs. Zeno, a long face with a beard.. A Pompey, no beard, the face rather full and roundifh than otherwife. My lord Malpas has a fine buft, which has a good deal of general refemblance to this, but fomewhat thinner and older. Sylla. Fauftina, fenior. An ./Egyptian bauo-relievo.. It reprefents, to the beft of my memory, an Ifidis Pompa, " A Proceffion in honour of Ifis." Hadrianus, and Sabina his emprefs. Six curious bufts of the Antonine-family, found fome time fince at a villa of prince Csfarini [call'd Villa Antonina] at Cita Lavinia near Genfano. Thefe fix bufts reprefent Antoninus Pius j Marcus Aurelius ; the fame when voung; Fauftina junior, his emprefs. Annius Verus, with the lotus cldvus ; fo call'd byFicaroni. Of the latus davits, more will be faid hereafter. A young Commodus. Thefe are all exceeding beautiful, and in perfect prefervation. Signor Ficaroni told us they were all found in feveral niches in one room pav'd with Mofaic, and that he faw them there : that they were at that time (as indeed they ftill continue) all frefh and no way dam ag'd. P lines 3*S ROME. PAL. RUSPOLI. Prince Caefarini had a favour to afk of Clement XI. and made his way by prefenting thefe bufts to his nephew. That prince had no occafion in the fucceeding pontificate for fuch methods ; he then became [by affinity] a pope's nephew him- fclf, his princefs being niece to Innocent XIII. There is a curious buff of Caligula, in a ftone called baffalte, very hard, and of an iron colour. Domitianus and Domitia ; the medals of her are very rare, and of great value. Nero,— Nerva, and fome others of the emperors. The bulls of philofophers in this collection are fifty-five in number. There are feveral Sarcophagi with fine baffo-relievo's ; one of them is a boar-hunting, very fine. A lynx cut in a fort of ftone they call pavonazza, which is naturally fpotted, and has a very agreeable effect in the reprefen- tation of this (potted animal. Befides thefe mention'd, there are a great many others, very curious and valuable. They were not, when we faw them, fet up in the cardinal's own palace : the gallery defign'd for them not being ready. In the Palazzo Rufpoli is a long vifto of rooms very noble, Pal. Rufpoli. with double door-cafes of giallo antico. Many of the rooms are painted in frefco, cielings, and walls. The great flairs are of Greek marble, each of one piece. In this palace are a great many antique ftatues, bufts, and baflb-relievo's ; I (hall mention only a few. A large buff, of Nero. The three Graces. Julia Mammea, with a perfect bob peruque. Plautilla, with her hair tied up behind, juff. as our ladies now lie up their's. A baflb-relievo of a foldier taking leave of his wife, uoon his going out to war ; on one fide is a ferpent (the fymbol of ./Efculapius) in a tree, as an augury of health. This piece is much efteem'd by the curious. Silenus, and young Bacchus; two of them. Didius Julianus, a lawyer, who bought the empire. Claudius j and Hadrian; both whole figures, Sfa Julia 3 i6 ROME, PAL. ALT1ERL Julia Pia, wife of Septimius Severus, drefs'd as an Iole, a whole figure. Several Fauni. Antoninus Pius, Commodus, and other emperors, frequent el-few he re. tfal.Fiorenza. In the Palazzo Fiorenza, Campo Marzo, in the Conte de Fede's apartments, is a gr.ou-pe of two figures (probably Salma- cis and Hermaphroditus) exceeding fine. A head of Apollo, and the trunk of the fame, feparate. A Terminus. All thefe were found not long fince in the Villa-. Hadriana, in the way to Tivoli, belonging to that count. Some portraits in oil, by Bernini, a bold mafierly manner :-. but fculpture was his excellency, as 'twas Mich. Angelo's. Several other good- pictures and drawings, laJ, Allien. The Palazzo Altieri is a very, large and magnificent ftruc- ture. They fay there are in it three hundred fi-xty-five rooms. The ftair-cafe is efteem'd the grandeft in Rome.. The apart- ments are very noble, and richly furnifh'd. The door-cafes ara of Sicilian jafper. The cielings of fome of the rooms are painted by Carlo Maratti, Nicola Berettoni, and Francefco, or Fabricio Chiari, not known here fo w.ell as Giofeppe Cbiari is.. One great hall has part of its cieling painted by Car. Marat,, but was never finifh'd : though there is a print extant of the whole defign, engrav'd by Giacomo Freij. There are a great many fine pictures, by Claude Lorain, Salvator P*ofa, Philippe.: Laura, Borgognone, Paolo Veroneie, Andrea Sacchj,. and other, great mafters. There is a ritratto of Titian*, by himfelf. Another of a boy, one Domenico Jacovacci, faid to be of Raphael; but it feem'd to me more of Titian's manner. In one room is, what they call the grot t a finta, a repre- fentation of a folitary retreat, as for a hermit ; with rocks all round, and a cave for his repofe : the feveral parts are painted: on cloth, and difpofed in a fcene-like manner, romantick enough. Bat Swell?., The Palazzo Saveili ftands within what was the theatre of Marcellus, a considerable part of which does now remain.. The fabrick is antient, as was the family (now lately extinct) which inhabited it, being defceuded from the antient Roman: Sab.ellij. ROME. PAL. MAS SIM I. 3 ,, 7 We law in the court of the palace fome antique baffo-re- lievo's, a fight of gladiators with a lion, bear, and tiger. Two Sarcophagi of marble, one with the labours of Her- cules, the other of a man combating a lion -, a deer under- neath. A bafib-relievo of Marc. Aurelius after his conqueft of the Sarmatians, and an embaflador of theirs kneeling before him. This is much in the manner of thofe on the flairs in. one of the wings in the Capitol, and is fuppos'd to have been taken from the Arcus Portugallias, as thofe were. In the Palazzo Maffimi are two curious pieces of antique Pal - Maflimi. Mofaic, reprefenting combats of the Retiarii and Secutores *. * For an ac - In one of them are written the names of the combatants, Ca- ^ ou " tofll '^ e ' lendio and Aftianax; the former being the Retiarius, and the RomtTfM.hr latter the Secular : and 'twas he that got the vidory, as the I 111 ""- infcription tells us [Ajliaiiax vicit ] tho' the other is reprefented there to have fo much the advantage, as to have thrown his net quite over his adverfary. There are likewife other Mofaics of gladiators, and one of a crocodile devouring a man. A fine Sacrifice in bafib-relievo. And Another bafib-relievo in Mofaic- Performances of this kind, are what we very rarely meet with. Some of the paintings that were found in the fepulchre of the Nafonian-family, commonly call'd Ovid's tomb. A curious fepulchral urn of porphyry, with a cover, found within a large vafe.. Some of Pietro Santo Bartoli's defigns after the antique, finely copied by cardinal Maffimi. There is in this palace a whole book of thofe done by Bartoli himfelf ; but the keeper of them was out of the way, fo that we did not fee them. There is a ritratto by Raphael, two by Titian, and one by Guido; and a ritratto of the cardinal, by Carlo Maratti. An TEfculapius, and Telefphorus,. with a drefs like a Ca- puchin. On the outfide of the houfe, is a Hunting in bafib-relievo, and paintings to the ftreet, by Polydore. In a portico within the court is a great flatue of Pyrrhus, in very fine armour,. There 3 iS ROME. PAL. MASSIMI. There is painted by Perino del Vaga in another portico, Ju- piter drawing up a groupe of figures by a rope or chain, which ieem to be the gods and goddeffes in Homer, whom Jupiter challeng'd to take one end of the chain while he held the other, defying them all to ftir him from his place, and undertaking to draw them and the whole world at pleafure ; and then to fix the chain round the top of Olympus, and leave them all hanging at it. Macrobius makes a moral application of it in the following words— Invent etur prejjtus intuenti a fummo Deo nfque ad ultimam rerum feecem Connexio : & heec eft Homeri Catena Aurea, quam fender e de ccelo in terras Deum jujjijfe commemorat " There will be found, by him that obferves " attentively, from the fupreme God, quite down to the " meaneft of things here below, a connexion, which ties them " all together by mutual bonds, and is in no part broken, or " interrupted. And this is that Golden Chain of Homer which " he mentions to hang down, by Jupiter's command, from hea- '* ven to earth." There is a fair fepulchral infeription in marble, which Signor Ficaroni made a prefent of to the marquis Camillo Maffimi, at the digging up whereof he was prefent, and bought it of the workmen : it was found in a field where they were plowing on the fide of the Via Latina, with the whole urn it belong'd to, and within the urn was a round vafe of alabafter, wherein among the burnt bones was a gold chain, two gold rings, and a gold medal of Alexander Severus. Signor Ficaroni was follicitous I fhould tranferibe the inferip- tion, that I might be a witnefs of his being in the right in his correction of the reading of this infeription, publifh'd by Fa- bretti, who has put S1L1ANO inftead of SITTIANO. The infeription, as I tranferib'd it, is as follows. DIS ROME. CAPITOL. .319 DlS MANIBVS C . SEIO M . F QVIR . CALPVRNIO QVADRATO SITTIANO PROCOS. PROVINC . NARBONENS . PRAET PEREGRINO TRIB. PLEBLS QVAESTORI PROVINC . AFRIC. ffl VIRO CAPITALI CVIVS CORPVS HlC CREMATVM EST. It appearing by the infcription that the body of this great peribn was burnt in that place [Via Latina] and that a gold medal of Alexander Severus was found in the urn ; Ficaroni thence argues, that the practice of burning of dead bodies continued after the time of the Antonines, (contrary to the common opinion of the antiquaries) for it was not till after the Antonines that Alexander Severus was emperor. In the houfe of the cavalier del Pozzo is a copy of the Nozze Aldobrandine, commonly called the Grecian Wedding, which I (hall take notice of in its proper place ; and another, of the figures on the Vas Barberinum, both by Nicola Pouffin : the latter is in chiaro ofcuro. The Seven Sacraments, and feveral biftorical fubjects, by the fame author. He liv'd a confiderable time in this family. Be- fides the Seven Sacraments, and thofe already mention'd at Paris, I was told there is another fet done by him in Rome, at the palace of the marquefs Buffalo, which I did not fee. I ihall conclude what I have been faying of the palaces, with Capi&A fome account of that publick one of the Capitol : the place where the religion of the anttent Romans made its mod: fplen- did appearance, and now the refidence of the publick juflice. The prefent Capitol (call'd by the people Campidoglio) {lands upon the fame hill where the famous old one was ; and part of it is built upon fome of the very fame foundations. The flruc- ture of this is very noble, chiefly defign'd by Mich. Angelo. The print that is extant of this {lately fabrick makes it need- lefs for me to be particular in the defcription of it. The ROME. CAPITOL. The marble trophies which grace the baluflrade on the para- pet at each fide of the entrance, are commonly called the tro- phies of Marius : they were brought from the Caftello dell' Acqua Martia, to which they long lerv'd as an ornament, and were of late years, plac'd in the Capitol, ranging with the ftatues of Caflor and Pollux, the Colonna Migliaria, and other orna- ments. Bellori would change the long-receiv'd appellation, and en- deavours to prove them to be the trophies (not of Marius, but) of Trajan. Which he argues, firft, for that the Caftello dell' Acqua Martia was reftor'd and enlarg'd by Trajan : and further, that the fculprure is of the manner of that emperor's time, and particularly of his pillar: that thefe trophies refemble thofe that are on the pillar, and that the particular fhields are the fame with thofe that are fcen on feveral medals ftruck in honour of that emperor. But, in the arch at Orange likewife, which was certainly erec- ted in honour of C. Marius, the trophies are the fame as thefe ; the fhields, &c. of the fame manner : and on one of the fhields isinfcrib'd [MARIO ;] as a friend of mine, who carefully obferv- ed thofe ornaments, has aiTur'd me. If therefore thefe fhields, &c. do refemble thofe on the arch at Orange, as well as thofe on Trajan's pillar, that part of Bellori' s argument is of lefs force: and fuppofe Trajan did repair the Caftello dell' Acqua Martia (tho' there is a difpute even concerning that matter) yet it does not neceflarily follow, that thofe muft have been his trophies which were plac'd there. Fabretti, in his learned remarks upon the Trajan pillar, de- livers his opinion firmly and vigoroufly, that thefe trophies are not to be afcribed to Trajan ; denying even the aiTerted 'refem- blance between thefe, and thofe which arefeen upon the pillar j and for goodnefs of work, will allow no comparifon between them; fo that, upon the whole, there does not yet appear any convincing reafon to the contrary, why the old receiv'd appel- lation of thefe trophies may not yet be continued. Theequeftral ftatue of Marcus Aurelius, in copper, is the fineft now known to be in the world, and has the fineft fitua- tion : it is placed in the midd of the piazza or area of the Capi- tol, from which exalted flation the emperor feems to take a furvey ROME. CAPITOL. 321 furvey of the city, and with his hand extended to be now gi- ving laws to Rome. This noble ftatue in the midft of the area ; thofe of Caftor and Pollux, with their horfes [coloffal] in white marble, on the fides, at the top of the afcent, and two Egyptian lions, which form two fountains at the bottom, with the other ornaments fo agreeably rang'd on each fide, do make the approach to this noble fabrick the moft beautiful that can be imagin'd. Within the wing, which is on the left hand as we enter the. area, there is a court with a portico, in which they fliew'd us a fine Roma Triumphans, of Greek marble, fitting, which is the pofture they always give this figure : they told me it was twen- ty Roman palms high * j but I did not meafure it. Some in- • A Roman confiderable parts had been broken off, and reftor'd, but the p ? !m . is about bulk of the figure is all antique, and of a great tafte. This, &££t" with feme other figures, was lately found in the vigna [vineyard] of the duke of Acqua Sparta near S. Peter's. Three ^Egyptian idols of granite, one male, the other two female, each twelve palms high, with obeliiks at their backs, inferib'd with hieroglyphicks. An Ifis in dark-colour'd ftone, fourteen palms high. The male and one of the females were all intire; the other female and the Ifis were broken, but have been repair'd. Thefe had been found near the Porta Salara, about eight years before we firft faw them ; and were thence brought into the portico on the left hand above-mention'd ; and were a°-ain remov'd, while we ftay'd at Rome, into a portico within & the wing on the right hand : but I defcribe them from my notes in the fituation I firft faw them. Within the court of the wing where I ftill am *, is Pafquin's * That next old correfpondent Marforio, a figure reprefenting the river theAraCceli. Rhine j it lies along, leaning on one elbow, the moft common pofture of the river-gods. It lay formerly before the temple of Mars in the Forum Romanum, and is fuppofed to have got its name of Marforio, from Martis Forum, the name they gave to that part of the Forum which was next the temple of Mars. It is a coloffal figure, of a great ftyle, and not fo mangled as his friend Pafquin. T t On 322 ROME. CAPITOL. On the ftair-cafe of this wing are two fine mezzo-relievo's, taken from the Arcus Portugallias, which is now deftroy'd : they reprefent part of the ftory of Marcus Aurelius, with the apotheofis or confecration of Fauftina. They are publifh'd in the Veteres Arcus Augujlorum. Another mezzo-relievo, fuppofed to have been taken from the fame arch, and contain- ing another part of the fame emperor's ftory, I have before mention'd to be in the Palazzo Savelli. Above ftairs on this fide, is a fuite of rooms, the length of the whole wing, where are abundance of antique ftatues and bufts. I (hall name only a few of them which I chiefly obferv'd. A fine ftatueof Agrippina, with the young Nero. The bufts of Plato, Alcibiades, Diogenes, and Archimedes. Apollo and Bacchus, whole figures. Bufts of Pan, Marcellus, Flora, Diana, Fauftina, Sappho, Hiero, Socrates: with feveral of the emperors, Tiberius, Tra- jan, Alexander Severus, &c. A fine ftatue of the great Marius, who was feven times con- ful ; to whom were afcrib'd the trophies lately mention'd A Flora, Poppaea, Sabina, Adonis, one of the fibyls, [ex- cellent] whole figures. One which they call'd Heros Aventinus Herculis jilius ; it is no other than a young Hercules with the ferpents in his hand, of a dark ^Egyptian ftone. The wing on the right hand, as you enter the area, has within it a court, with a portico at the entrance into the court, as in the other wing ; but in this they have added another por- tico at the further end of the court, which was finifh'd fo late- ly as while we were at Rome, and the figures before-mention'd to have been found at the Porta Salara were removed into it as ibon as it was firnihed. In the firft portico you enter into within this court, ftand the ftatues of Julius and Auguftus Ca;far, on each fide the entrance ; the former has a globe in his hand, which they ex- plain to denote his dominion of the world. The other has what there they call a roftrum at his feet, and what they would have to fignify his victory at Adtium over M» Antony and Cleopatra,, which open'd him the way to the empire j ROME. CAPITOL. 323 empire; but, I rather take it to be a rudder: if fo, it may denote his being at the helm of government; fleering and directing all affairs, as monarch of the world. A little beyond this, is that moil ancient monument, the Co- lumna Roftrata, erected as a trophy for Caius Duilius, after his fea-victory over the Carthaginians : the very antique in- fcription is preferv'd, but incompaffed with work which is ma- nifeftly of a modern date; tho' there they pretend the neweft part to be as old as Auguftus*. The infcription fets forth the number of veffels that were taken from the enemy, together with the booty of gold, filver, and heavy brafs [*CRAVE * CforG. CAPTOM AES]; of the laft, the booty was two millions one hundred thoufand pound weight There is a D added to the end of feveral words ending in vowels, as PVCNANDOD — . ALTOD MARID. Fide Ciacconium de columna Rofirata. Within this court are the fragments of a coloffal ftatue of Apollo, the two feet and part of" a hand : I meafured one of the feet, and found it fix foot long — ex pede Herculem. A coloffal head of Domitian in marble, and one of Com- modus in brafs. In the wall on one fide of this court are inferted in a marble, brafs lines, exhibiting the ftandards of the prefent, and fome of the ancient meafures. The Greek and Roman foot, the palm and canna now in ufe. A little further on the fame fide is a fine groupe of a lion and horfe in marble. Ficaroni fuppofes this to reprefent the en- gagement of fome particular wild horfe with a lion in the amphitheatre, and that he had perform'd his part fo well as to deferve his ftatue in marble ; but the lion has got the better on't in this reprefentation, having fail: hold of his flank; and 'tis exprefs'd with a wonderful fpirit. In the new portico, at the further end of this court, are the ^Egyptian ftatues, with the Roma Triumphans, already men- tion'd. * One mud be cautious how onereceires the accounts they give ; fometimes they give you a wrong account merely thro' downright ignorance : fometimes, only to fet off, and raife your idea of the thing they are mewing you : at other times they'll play tricks to found your depth, and try what lengths they may go with vou. So trut in each refpeft Us well for a man to be upon his guard. r T t On 324 ROME. CAPITOL; On the flairs going up to the apartments of this wing, are four large and fine mezzo-relievo's, in white marble, part of the flory of Marcus Aurelius. They are to be feenin the Ad~ miranda towards the beginning of the book. The great hall above flairs is finely painted by the cavalier Arpinas, the fubjefts are the Rape of the Sabine women, the Battle of the Horatii and Curiatii, and other parts of the an- tient Roman hiflory. In the apartments within this hall are, The Wolf, in copper, fuckling Romulus and Remus : there is a breach in the left thigh of the wolf, which they fay was made by lightning j and they do aver this to be the fame flatue which was in the old Capitol, and is mention'd by Cicero as ftruck by lightning in his time. The paffage they mean, I fup- pofe, mufl be that in the third oration againfl Cataline, where fpeaking of other portent a [prodigies] he introduces this paffage with a particular flrefs TacJus eft etiam ille qui hanc urbem condidit Romulus; quern inauratum in Capitolio parvum at que lac- tentem uberibus lupinis inhiantem fuijfe meminijlis " The " Romulus, founder of our city, was ftruck likewife by the •* fame lightning, I mean that gilt one you remember in -the " Capitol, reprefenting him a little fucking child, ftretching " his lips towards the dugs of a wolf." Thefe words indeed feem to point at the perfon of Romulus, but that may be only by fome fuch figure as that of Virgil, Proximus ardet Ucalegon- Whereby it is not neceffary to fuppofe that the perfon of Uca- legon was touch'd : and this whole flatue or groupe might well enough go by the fingle name of Romulus, as we fee the Laocoon in the Vatican, and the Toro in the Farnefe. And this, I think, favours lefs of an impofture, than if the wound were feen in the perfon of the babe, which, had it been inten- tionally made to correfpond with the words of Tully, it is more likely it would have been. I do. not remember to have obferv'd any gilding on it, but that might eafily be fuppos'd to have been worn off in fo long a tra& ROME. CAPITOL. trad: of time. Thus much may be offer'd on one fide. But) On the other fide, Is there not another objection againft this being the ftatue fpoken of by Tully P — That it was deftroy'd by the lightning 1 own the Quem Uberihus lupinis inhian~ tern fuisse meministis fuits better with a ftatue that was de- fac'd at leaft, than with one wherein Romulus ftill continued, and might be feen every day in the fame pofture and action. There is likewife a further difficulty arifing from the place where, according to fome, this groupe was found ; viz. In the ruins of the Ara Maxima in the Forum Boarium. And this objection would have a great weight, could it be prov'd that it was originally an ornament to the Ara Maxima, never plac'd in the old Capitol, nor brought from thence to the Ara Maxi- ma, as it has been fince from the Ara Maxima to the new Ca- pitol ; but if thefe objections have more weight than the other fuppofitions, we muft e'en give up this circumftance, how dear foever it may be to the antiquaries, and who can help it? There is likewife a very fine ftatue in copper of a Camillus, one of the youths who afiifted at facrifices. Thefe figures are rare in ftatues, though frequent in baflb- relievo's, where the whole ceremonies of the facrifice are exprefied. There is one in marble at Florence j but this, as I faid, is in copper. The Meffenger [Cn. Martius] pulling the Thorn out of his Foot, which he endured, and would not lofe fo much time as to pull it out, 'till he had deliver'd the letter he was fent with to the fenate. This is in copper too. There is one at the Villa Borghefe in marble, in the fame attitude and fize. He feems- to be a youth not above fixteen, with fuch a flcndernefs of the arms, as beipeaks him to be a good deal fhort of manly growth* If fuch were the perfon of the mtflenger, that diligent expedi- tion, and conftancy of mind, were the more remarkable. The Fqfti Confulares, engrav'd in marble : there are great chafms in them: the middle part is moft perfect. A very fine medaglione in marble, of Mithridates, king of Pontus, profile. A fine head of Brutus the conful, in copper. A ftatue of Hercules in copper, with the club in one hand, and apples in the other, bigger than the life. Some remains of gilding ftill appear on it. A 325 326 R O M E. C A P I T O L, A marble ftatue of Cicero, at leaft fo call'd ; but the coun- tenance is not like the buffs or antique intaglio's they elfewhere fhew of him. On his left cheek is a broad and flattifh excre- fcence, with a little round one rifing again above it, which is for the cicer [the pea], from which he had the name of Cicero. Some antique meafures in marble, which were for corn, wine, and oil. They feem intended to be in the nature of ftandards, being too unhandy for common ufe. That part of the Capitol which fronts you at your firft en- trance into the great area, is the refidence of that magiftrate, who is now called The Senator of Rome; and has under him three judges, one for criminal, and two for civil affairs. In the hall of this part are the feveral tribunals for thefe judges. I law them one day fitting on civil affairs ; the parties concern'd telling their own ffories themfelves to the judges. The fide-wings are for the Confervatori di Roma, to meet in upon their bufinefs ; part of which is, to take cognizance of abufes in the markets, as to weight, meafure, or price; and to take care of the antiquities of Rome, the walls, and the aqueducls. I muff not leave the Capitol without mentioning the Rupes c Iarpeia [Tarpeian rock], to which Ficaroni brought us, to convince us of the miftake of father Montfaucon, who fays «.Bj). Bumet. there is little precipice left ; and of another very great writer*, who reprefents it as what a man might jump down without danger. — What he fhew'd is on your right hand, as you face the Capitol, and not far from the Palazzo CafFarelli ; he affirms that he meafur'd it, and found it to be eighty palms [that is, fixty foot] above ground, as it now is, befides what is hid of it with rubbifh at the bottom. Whether his meafure is exadt or not, I do not know ; but it is manifeftly fo high, that no man that was not quite mad, would take fuch a defperate leap. After what has been faid of the palaces of Rome, I muft add fomewhat of the villa's; feveral of which are within the walls. Rus in urbe in a literal fenfe. In England, the nobility generally make their feats in the country the moft magnificent, and content themfelves with little more than mere conveniencies in town ; but here it is juft the reverfe ; the city-houfe is much greater, as well as generally ROME. VILLA DE MEDICI. 3 Z 7 generally more fplendid than the villa, which is only intended for a fhort retreat in the hot feafon. The gardens therefore of thefe villa's have in them great numbers of fhady tall trees and high hedges, abundance of fountains, and thofe forts of water-works which they call fcherzi d'acqua, [fports or plays of water] partly as the contri- vance of them is humorous, and the play of fancy, and partly as they are often employ'd to play tricks with the company ; but rarely with any other than fervants -, for, the Italians pique themfelves fo much upon decorum, that they are cautious of giving fuch jells as they would not care to take : however, a livery, they think, will bear a fhower well enough, which a finer fuit would not. But thefe fcherzi d'acqua have likewife a real ufe, for laying the duft, and cooling the air. The ftatues in fome of thefe villa's are very numerous, and do exceedingly enliven thofe fhady retreats ; fo that a man can never be faid to be alone there, if he can be content with filent company : and a perfon that is a lover of fculpture, or anti- quities in genera], may be moft agreeably entertain'd in thofe places, and have abundance of quashes anfwer'd, without a word lpeaking. The Villa de' Medici on the Monte Pincio [anciently Collati- Villa de' Me- nus] is a precious magazine of fculpture, both for ftatues and dl "' baflb-relievo's. In the portico of the palace of this villa, juft fronting the entrance, is a curious vafe of white marble, excellently well preferv'd, as well as finely perform'd : it reprefents Iphi- genia, going to be facrific'd, with Agamemnon, Ulyffes, and other figures encompaffing the vafe. It is to be feen in the jidmiranda. The fame portico is fet round with feveral ftatues, much larger than the life, moft of them in a very great ftyle, to which they give doubtful names, which I fpare repeating. As you go out of this portico into the garden, are two great lions in white marble, one on each fide the flairs. One of them was made by Flaminius Vacca, of whom mention has been made before: one half of the other (as fays the fame Vacca) i. e. one fide of it is antique, for it was a mezzo-relievo only ; but John Seranus, a fculptor of Fiefoli, having carv'd the 328 ROME. VILLA DE MEDICI. the other part of the marble, made the lion folid and entire. Afterward (fays he) by order of the great duke, I made a whole one like it. He fpeaks very modeftly, for he is much the bet- ter of the two. At a little diftance from the flairs is a fountain, adorned with three fine ftatues in copper of John de Bologna; one is the Mercury ftanding on one leg, and pointing upwards, of which are feveral copies in England. The fecond is a Mars. The third they there call Saturn, going to eat one of his children ; but it is more likely to be a Silenus, and young Bac- chus : the vine branches that are curioufly twifted about the trunk of a tree, which the great figure refts againft, denote it : and there is a marble ftatue at the Villa Borghefe, there con- ftantly called a Silenus, which the figures in this fo much re- ferable, that I am inclined to think they are caft from it. A little further are two great vafes or cifterns of oriental granite, which were brought from the baths of Titus : one of them is four foot deep, twenty foot long, and nine foot over, of one intire piece : the other is about the fame breadth, not quite fo deep, but longer by about two foot. Beyond thefe is an /Egyptian obelifk infcrib'd with hiero- glyphicks. The finefl aflembly of ftatues (if I may give it that term) that ever I faw relating to one ftory, is that of Niobe and her children : they are not all of equal goodnefs, (that rarely happens in fuch a number) but all, I think, have a good deal in them to be admired. The Niobe herfelf is excellent, fo are two of the daughters that ftand in front ; and the fon who is between them, and has one hand grip'd and preffing on his thigh (expreffing great anguiih by that, and by his head being flung up), the other refting on the point of a rock, with the fingers finely fpread. Another fon, who with one hand brings fome drapery over his head (as if therewith he would defend himfelf) and the other ftretch'd out, is excellent too ; and fo is one that lies along, dead : this is the only one repre- fented as dead ; the reft appear all aghaft, as thunder-ftruck, fome with one knee on the ground, others with the limbs ftretch'd, even to a degree of diftortion, which 1 doubt not was intended ROME. VILLA DE MEDICI. Intended to exprefs their greater anguifh. The miferable mo- ther is rais'd upon an eminence behind, having her diftrefs'd children all in agonies before her; the youngeft, who has run to her lap for (belter, (Tie hovers over. Ovid exactly defcribes the attitude, and gives us the words one would imagine Niobe to be fpeaking, 325 __ quam toto corpore mater Tola vejie tegens, imam minimamque relinque, De multis minimam pofco, elamavit, & iinam. lib. VI.. , to fhield the laft Her mother, over her, her body caft : This one, fhe cries, and that theleaft, O fave! The leaft of many, and but one I crave. Sandys, A horfe is brought among them prancing; for fome of the fons were (according to Ovid) at their exercifes on horfeback, •when they were ftruck by the angry deities. Therefore Mont- faucon is in the wrong when he fpeaks of the horfe, as not 'belonging to the ftory. E quibus Ifmenos, qui matri far etna quondam Prima fuce fuer at, dum certum jieclit in or'bem S>uadrupedes curfus, fpinnantiaque or a coerce t. Hei mihi ! conclamat ; medioque in peStore Jixus Tela \gerit-— — — — — Ifmenus from her womb who'firft did fpring, As with his ready horfe he beats a ring, And checks his foaming jaws; ah me ! outciies ; While thro' his groaning breaft an arrow flies. Sandys, Part of this fable Ovid might be fuppos'd to give from fuch accounts as were then generally receiv'd ; and drefs'd them out according to his poetical fancy j but the particular defcrip- tion of Niobe's action, and her youngeft child, feems very probable to have been taken from thefe ftatu'es of them ; this work being long before Ovid's time : fince in the days of U u Pliny 3^0 ROME, VILLA-DE MEDICIS. Pliny they were agreed to be antique, and of the hand either of Scopas or Praxiteles, tho' of which of the two was then difputed. Gronovius, on the other hand, not confiderin^ the time of the work, fuppofes the artift to have taken his hint from Ovid : fo that on all fides there is a confefs'd agreement between the fculptor and the poet. They were found in the time of Flaminius Vacca (as he fays), not far from the Porto di S. Giovanni, without the city, and were bought by the great duke Ferdinand. Perrier has engrav'd them, not much to their advantage; I mean that plate moft particularly where they are all feen toge- ther, which is very flight, but has enough to fhew the general defign : he has moreover added Apollo and Diana in the air* ihooting at them, which led father Montfaucon into a miftake, and Gronovius likewife, who fpeak of thofe figures as a part of the work ftfelf : and fome curious friends of mine have by the light of that print, been naturally led into a iiippofition, that the work muft be in baflb-relievo, they likewife taking the- Apollo and Diana for part of it, and well knowing, it was not likely for flatu.es to be fo fufpended in the air. On another fide of the garden is the dying Cleopatra, much, in the attitude of others already fpoken of. It is an excellent figure, of a very great flyle : the head,. I was told, is modern,, but is very good. A little.further, is a coloflal Roma Triumphans. From this flatue, all along that fide of the garden, leading back again to the palace, are ftatues rang'd along the outfide wall of two porticoes or galleries, [in the fame line] and baflb- relievo's inferted in the wall. There are many of them to be feen in the Admiranda towards the beginninp. Out of one of thefe, Raphael feems evidently to have taken that groupe of the Ox and Pops, &c. in the cartoon of Paul and Barnabas at Lyftra. Within thefe portico's, on each fide, are ranges of ftatues, fome exceeding good, but very much neglecled. That fide of the palace fronting the garden is in a manner in- tirely fill'd with ftatues and baflb-relievo's. At one corner of the palace I obferv'd a votive infcription to^ Bacchus, which is as follows. LIBERO ROME. VILLA GIUSTINIANI. 5s j LIBERO PATRI SANCTO SACR SEX • CAELIVS PRIMITIVES ET PUBLIC TA • ANTVLLA VOTO SVSCEPTO D. D. Within the palace are a great many fine flatues ; an antique copy of one of Niobe's daughters. A Venus coming out of the bath. The duke of Rich- mond, I think, has a copy of this in fcagliola. Marfyas tied up to a tree to be flead ; exceeding good. An Apollo, leaning againfl the flump of a tree, with his right arm brought over his head ; as beautiful a figure as can be feen, and were well worthy to accompany the Venus de Medicis. I forbear adding feveral others I obferved there. In one part of the garden, within a fhady grove of Licini [Ilex] is a mount where they fay was once a temple of the fun. On the outer gates of this palace, which are covered with metal, they fhew the marks of two or three cannon-balls which that heroine Chriftina queen of Sweden fhot off from the caftle of S. Angelo for diverfion, about a mile over the houfes. In the Villa Giufliniani *, by S. John Lateran, are abun- Villa Gui- dance of bufts, feveral fine flatues, baffo-relievo's and infcrip- " ia "i; . tions. ^ T t here ?f, r\ T v.r j i < i another villa Une 1 obierved, which was made to a mod; highly efleem'd beIo "g ! "g to wife. tn ' s prince, CONIVGI SANCTISSIMiE, CASTISSIM^, iht Pomdel INCOMPARABILI FOEMINARVM Popolo; but . , .-.::.,■. all the fineft Another to a wife who had liv'd with her hufband forty- thin S 5 have eight years. Another to a fon, the lofs of whom is much fe^tE* lamented ; c " FILIO, OPTIMO, PIISSIMO, DVLCISSIMO, SODALI DESIDERATISSIMO, VIXIT ANNIS XVI MENSIBVS V DIFBVS XXL PARENTES INFELICISSIML Uu 2 Another «P R G M E. VILLA GIUSTINIANr. Another to a daughter, wherein the odd hours of her life ar* exprefTed. F1LIJE PIENTISSIIVLE QUM VIXIT ANNIS XIX. MENSIBUS X DIEBUS XXUX HOR. VIII. One finds in thefe, and many other fepulchral infcriptions,. the ablative cafe ufed in exprefling the continuance of time in- flead of the accufative. Among the buds, I obferv'd one called there C. Marius* but Ficaroni told me it is of L. Sulla. Among the ftatues, there is one of M. Antony, and another, of Juftinian the emperor. thave already occasionally mention'd a moil curious vafe that i& in this villa, when I fpoke of an antique altar at the Palazzo Bracciano, which is of the fame deiign. There are four other fmaller antique vafes with bafib-relie- vo's. on one fide only of each ; they ftand at the four corners of a little fquare,, formed by efpaliers. They reprefent Hercules in the garden of the Hefperides. A Triton carrying off a Nymph. A Faun picking aThorn out of a Satyr's Foot. The fourth feems to be Venus and Adonis. I have here given defigns of them. There are feveral other vafes in this garden, with baffo- rdievo's round them,, which are not fetup. On one of thefe is a hafket full of Priapus's. The palace of this villa is but final], and they therefore call it the P'alazzino or Palazzetto, that is, the Little Palace there is in it an antique bafio-relievo, which is valued not fo much for the workmanfhip, for that is indifferent enough, but for the fubjecf : it is a 110 turn, to Aglibolus and Malach- belus, deities of the Palmyreans,. by which are underfiood the fun and moon j for the moon was fometimes wormip'd as a mafculine deity, [Lunus.] There is under it an infen'ption in the Palmyrean language, and. another in Greek. I let the former alone, (not undemanding the character) and. tranferib'd the latter, together with an interpretation of it by Mr. Spon, which they mew there, with it 5. which are here annex'd. 9 , Mr, ATMBCDACD KAI AAAAAXBH ACD TTATPCDOIC 06OIC KAI TO CITNON APTYPOYN CYN TTANTI KOZAACD AN60HMLAYP- H AIOA CDPOC ANTIOXOY AAPIANOC TTAAAAYPHNOCeKCDNIAICDNYneP CCDTHPIA6AYTOY KAIT? .MdIOY rSmtfh KAI TT6KNON 6TOYC Z AA(|)AaHMOC TT(5 P I T I O Y x ^ eJl ' " /r ttfoafat AGLIBOLO ET MALACHBELO PATRIIS DIIS ET SIGNVM ARGENTEVM CVM OMNI ORNAMENT O OBTVLIT L-AVR HELIODORVS ANT IOC HI [FJ HADRIANVS PALMIRENVS DE SVAPECVNIAOB SALVTEM SVAM ET W)RIS ET FILIORVM ANNO DXLVII MENSE PERITIO J&c/. 33-2. E V 3 ° //■ ^km&rjfiu&t i'f.v'/, Ma/Jt> «efa%v /?ij/ e ** ROME. VILLA ALDOBR AND INA. Here are landscapes in frefco by Guercin and Domenichin. They fhew'd us here fome bones of a human body, all crufted over with a petrified fubftance. Where this villa now is, were once the gardens of Salluft, in the midft of which flood a vaft obelifk, with hieroglyphicks, which now lies in feveral pieces in a wafte part of the garden. Hard by this villa, we faw the Circus of Flora, where anti- en tly were celebrated the Floralia. On one fide of this Cir- cus, upon an old wall, are fome remnants of antique paint- ings. The Villa Aldobrandina of prince Pamphilio, (tho' there are Villa ATd» a great many very good ftatues in it) is chiefly vifited for t he brandina - fake of that famous picture, call'd the Nozze Aldobrandine, from its reprefenting a wedding, and being lodg'd in this villa. Bartoli's print of it in the Admiranda, and the copies we have of it in England, make it needlefs for me to fpeak of the defign. _ It is not at all damag'd by fracture, tho' brought, with the piece of the wall it was painted on, from the Efquiline mount, where it was found, to this villa. The colours are a good deal decay'd, and well they may, if it be above two thoufand years old, as the antiquaries judge it to be : yet not fo much, but that one may ftill obferve a great deal of beauty in them, particular- ly as they fet off one another in the feveral draperies. Tho' there are a great many other paintings now in Rome which muff be call'd antique in refpedt of our times, (fome of them being doubtlefs fifteen or fixteen hundred years old) yet Bellori calls this Unicum veteris arth exemplar & miraculum, " The fingle pattern, and miracle of antient art :" Which muft be underftood w' t^xh with refpecl to its fuperior age, if compared with the others. Here is a noted bafTo-relievo of two Ctzftiarii, fuppos'd to be intended for the Dares and Entellus of Virgil. This bafio- relievo reprefents only the upper half of the figures; but Raphael, in a defign of his, (of which a print is extant) has added the reft, and made fome alteration in the contraft of the arms. The Villa Palombara is by fome fuppos'd to be in the place, villa Palcra where the palace or garden of Meca;nas was. Others fay that b:i «- here *3 6 "ROME. Villa Far- jiofe. VILLA PALOMBARA. here was part of Nero's golden houfe, ruin'd by Vefpafian? and where afterwards was a part of Titus's baths. Here we faw a beautiful trunk of an Apollo, with fome very :good drapery, found not long fince in this villa, together with fome fine antique pillars. A fmall Apollo with the harp, a genteel attitude : bafio- relievo. A fmall Faufiina; baflb-relievo ; profile; in the wall of a neglected room. There is a lovely profpecl from this villa. The Villa Farnefe is on the Palatine Mount, where was once the palace of the Augufti, of which there are confide- rable ruins now remaining in the further part, looking towards the Circus Maximus. In fome wafte parts of the garden of this villa, we faw men digging in fearch of antiquities in old vaults, which were re- mains of the palaces of fome of the great men who liv'd near •the court of the emperors. There were feveral old walls incrufted with various forts of marbles, and old paintings [fmall figures] on the ftucco of the cielings and friezes; with fome gilded fragments. Several fragments of pillars, and fome fmall pilafters entire, of white marble, all wrought with foliage and other orna- ments. Some of the paintings that were found in this villa were brought to the great Farnefe, where we faw them. There were fome pretty things, but nothing very extraordinary. In a fummer-houfe of this villa are fome paintings of Perino del Vaga. At the Villa Spada, which is juft by the Villa Farnefe, are paintings after the antique, on the cielirtg of a portico. The garden is juft over the Circus Maximus. Ficaroni thence (hew'd us the place where hefaid the famous Palatine Library antiently flood. Villa dIMon. The Villa di Montalto was made by Sixtus V. when cardinal ; he having aflumed the title of cardinal di Montalto when he received the hat. Among the many antique ftatues which a re there, is the Apol- lo, occafionally mention'd before ; with a violin, juft fuch as now us'd., and held in the fame manner. This Villa Spada. italto. Iha.sS7- {7. Me ' ^""y^afootfquare, more or fefi, X Non- 33* ROM E. VILLA. CON T fc. Nondum fcltis ait, mortem non pq/Je negari f Crediderim fat is hoc'vos docuiffe patrem ; Dixit, & ardentes avido bib-it ore favilhu ; I nunc, & ferrum, turba molejla, nega. When Porcia heard how B&hus fell, and grief For weapons fought, withdrawn from her relief, " Has not my father's great example fhewn, " (Says (he) that death can be deny'd to none ?" Then fwallowingdown the burning coals, (he cry'd, " Now keep your fwords,, officious fools !" and dy'd; A large head of Sabina.. A moft genteel and beautiful ftatue which the people of the> place call Fauflina junior, but Ficaroni calls that Sabina too : it is publifh'd in Roffi's collection, and there too is called Sabina.. A bud which they call Cicero, but what I think unlike all others I have feen of him : it has an antique pedeftal, in which- there is an evident rafure, and in the place of the old name is put that of Cicero. — The pedeftal might indeed have for- merly belonged to another ftatue.. An antique mafque, which by fome is fuppos'd to be the Gnatho of Terence.- But there is fo vaft a number of the fcenical mafics, reprefented in antique fculpture,. and in terra cotta, (particularly on their lamps, to which they were a moll common ornament, the mouth-part of the malk being the place the wiek of the lamp came thro') and many differing from' others, only in fome fmall circumftance, that it is hard to de.-- termine particularly.. A buft of Jupiter Serapis in black ftone, agrandftyle.. A fine Bacchante, &c. baflb-relievo. A lovely ftatue of Antinous. A dead ram cut open, with the bowels falling out, very good 5 . all the parts hang very loofe. Near the entrance into this villa, there's a boat in ftone,. which they fay is antique, fuppofed to have been a votum : its rojlrum is a boar's head. ViibComi. J n the Villa Conti were the baths of Helena the emprefs 9 , mother of Conftantiae, of which there are now fome remains,., Thefs.. HOME. VILLA CHIGI. "Thefe baths were fupplied by theClaudian aqueduct. What now •appears of them confifts of twelve little apartments, each commu- nicating with the other, and incrufted with a hard composition, as the pifcina mirabik near Bayas : they were formerly covered with arches. At the further end [not at the entrance, as ad- vanced by fome] is a large ftone with the following infcription : ■there is a break in the ftone, as here represented. 339 D.N. HELENA VE^ fc^ VG MAT AVIA . BEATIS THERM •V2NAVG, Hard by is another to the wife of Septimius Severus. IVLIA DOMNAE AVG MATRI AVG • N ET CASTROR. The Villa Chigi is a fmall one, but remarkable for the great Villa Chigi, variety of the fcherzi d' acquet s > " A man had need walk very warily, and diftruft every ftone he fets his foot on, to avoid being wafhed by fome or other of the many fecret pipes, that are framed fo as to open and fpout out water, if you tread in fome particular places ; and are fo directed, as unavoidably to give you a wetting. Within the Palazetto we faw the original defigns of Bernini for 8. Peter's Chair, and the doclors of the church that fupport it. An extravagant Priapus. with another hanging from it, and bells affix'd. This, according to Ficaroni, ufed to be carried by the women in proceffion, jcecundi talis gratia. An antique jiatera Romana, having fquare chains to the fcale, wrought after the fame manner as the chains of our watches, and a little buft for the weight, as that at the Bar- berine Library, already mentioned. Part of a hollow'd cane, five inches diameter. X x 2 Some 24T9 ROME. VILLA CAS- A LI, &c. Some monftrous large bones : a tooth, 5cc. faid to be hu- man. An intire mummy, very finely adorn'd, which they fay was a- queen of Mgfpt; The bed, or couch it is laid on, is fup- ported- by animals of that country. On the Monte Celio [under the fide of which lies the old Pifcina], in a vineyard, is an old grotta, which has an antique piece of painting on the cieling, confiding of portraits, fef- toons, animals, &c. much decay'd. They fhew'd us there ai wafh'd drawing which had been made after it. Villa Cafali. At the Villa Cafali [in the portico at the entrance] is a very- fine Antinous, dreffed as a Bacchus : it was found in feveral pieces, which they have put together. There are other frag- ments of ftatues, &c. which were broken, as they fay, by the zeal of the primitive Chriftians, and made ufe of to fill up in making walls, &c. The mortar is now flicking to fame of them. Within the Palazetto is a buft of Julia Mcefa, with the marks of twelve rays that had been ftuck about her head, in the- fame manner as is foraetimes flill praclifed upon the ftatues of the B. Virgin. She is dreffed as the goddefs Pudicitia, in a veil. A large flatue of Ceres, with a thin drapery clinging about the breads : (he has ears of corn in her hand. A countryman with a kid, &c. wrap'd in the fkirt of his drapery. Bacchus with the tiger, and a Satyr. In the garden is an antique meta of a circus,, antiently be- longing, as is moft likely, to the Circus Maximus, which is- near this villa ; and in this villa it was found. A baffo-relievo of a father, mother, and daughter, all to- gether in one ftone : there is no infcription to declare whom they reprefent. The noble Villa Borghefe is jufl out of town, 'tis but at the diftance of a little mile from the Porta Flaminia, and lefs from the other parts of the wa'ls of Rome : yet we were obliged to have our fides [bills of health] for fo fhort an excurfion, elfe they would have made a difficulty to have admitted us again at the gate upon our return. This, Villa Corg hefe. ROME. VILLA BORGHESE, This villa is three miles in compafs, with a noble palace in the middle. I think it is the moft magnificent, and the parts difpofed with the greateft gufto of any I faw in Italy. There is fuch an agreeable variety of walks and vifto's, woods of ever- greens of various forts, fountains and ftatues in vail abundance, as makes the profpecl extremely entertaining : it is indeed a perfect country, cut out into various fcenes of pleafures-. Betides the vaft number of ftatues that are in the gardens,, and within the palace, the outer walls of the palace are in a manner entirely fpread over with ftatues and baffo-relievo's.. Among the reft, is a fine figure of Curtius on horfeback, as leaping into the gulph,. in altiffimo-relievo : the rider and the horle too feem prone and eager for the meritorious leap. This piece was found near the place where the famous leap was taken, in the Campo Vaccino. — Whatever the lake once was, it has been long fince fill'd up ; and a church now ftands in, or near adjoining to the place, and goes by the name of S. Maria Liberatrice. Among a multitude of other curious pieces of fculpture within the palace, are, Two fine bafib-relievo's, reprefenting nuptial dances: they are publifh'd in the Admiranda. A vafe fupported by the three Graces. The Gladiator: the famous original of that at Hampton- court, and the others which are in England : it was made by Agafias, the fori of Dofithens, an Ephefian ; as the infeription fhews, which is in thefe words, masias ap.2I©eot e*esios Enom. Silenus and Bacchus in marble :. the fame as that copper- one already mention'd in the Villa de' Medici, with this diffe- rence only, that the ftump the other refts againft, is adorn'd with vine-leaves, &c. which this is not. A famous ftatue they call the Zingara, or Fortune-teller,, with a chin-cloth. Caftor and Pollux. Coriolanus, and his mother Veturia. A large and very fine buft of Lucius Verus. Another of Marcus Aurelius. 54 1 W 34 2 UOME. VILLA BORGHESE. A ritratto bud: by Bernini: it is of one of the family; I think of cardinal Scipio Borghefe : it is moft admirably per- form'd. — This is the fame in fculpture, as the very beft Van- dykes are in painting. A moft beautiful vafe in white marble : the bafTo-relievo's reprefent a Bacchanal. Thefe are in the Admiranda. Fauftina junior, a buft : a lovely face. Thefe laft-mention'd are in an upper portico, the deling whereof is finely painted by the cavalier Lanfranc. At the fpringing of the vault are fome figures in chiaro ofcuro ; the ibadows have the appearance of duft refting on the projecting parts : whether that were the intent, I know not, or that it is only a confequence of the light being reprefented as ftriking from below : but it has directly that effect to the eye : the performance indeed is admirable. A ftatue in a fuppliant pofture, which they fay is intended for Belifarius, when reduced to beg in thefe terms. Date obolum Belifario. " Beftow a half-penny on Belifarius." The Sleeping Hermaphrodite.: one of the genteeleft, fineft- turn'd figures in the world ; the member virile ; but the coun- tenance, fhape of body, and breaft, like a woman: it lies on a matrafs, made by Bernini. — The great duke has another di- rectly in the fame attitude ; except that one foot of this is a little more raifed. Antonia Augufta, a buft; a moft beautiful countenance. Cornelia Salonina ; 1 t> n . r ' \ Bulls. Julius Cseiar.; J A little Venus fitting; very fine. The famous Centaur, with Cupid on his back. The young Faunas with the flute; a noted, and moft beau- tifully turn'd figure. The three Graces. The Meffenger, in marble : the fame with the copper one in the Capitol. Seneca in the Bath, in black marble; his knees half bent, and as trembling under him. Thefe are all antique, except the buft by Bernini, already frmention'd. 2 There ROME. VILLA BORGHES'E There are three more celebrated performances of his, viz. David going to encounter Goliah. The expreffion of the countenance (as indeed the whole figure) is excellent ; he draws up his chin, and fixes his eyes fo, as to exprefs a great deal of ardour, and intent aim at his adverfary. ./Eneas carrying his father Anchifes ; a very fine, and much celebrated groupe : but the lovelier!: thing, and what they told us was made by Bernini when he was but eighteen years old,, is the Apollo and Daphne. The attitude of thefe lovely figures is well known by the reprefentations that are of them in Eng- land. Underneath is written this difiich. Qui/qui s amans fequitur fugitive? gaudia formcz, Fronde manus impkt, baccas feu carpi t amaras. Whoe'er makes fleeting beauty his purfuit, Grafps only leaves, or gathers bitter fruit. I was told, of an amendment propofs'd by an Englifh gentle- man of the two firft words ;: — — inftead of g>uifquis amans, he would have hubrica qui, &c. It is not without reafon that they fay there is a people of ftatuei in Rome. Ficaroni told us [Ji qua fides) that he has counted eleven thoufand four hundred and odd, that are antique,, befides the vaft number of modern ones. Of all the entertainments in Italy, there is nothing, I think,- more agreeable than that which arifes from the obfervation of the antique ftatues. To fee the emperors, confuls, generals of armies, orators, philofophers, poets,, and other great men, whofe fame in hiftory engag'd our earlieft notice,, {landing (as it were) in their own perfons before us, gives a man a cafl of almoft two thoufand years backwards, and mixes the paft ages with the prefent. If we cannot (according to one of S. Auguftine's withes) fee S. Paul preaching, we can fee Tully declaiming, and Ca;far dilating. We can fee the beauties too of thofe early times, the Fauftina's, the Livia's, the Sabina's,. the Plautilla'sj to fay nothing of the ideal beauties, the nymphs and goddeffes; yet thefe in one refpecT; may have a gpodi 3"4'S 344 ROME. VILLA BORGHESE. good deal of reality too, where the fculptor might make his own miftrefs a Venus, with a — — Namque erit ilia mihi femper Dea.— ' — ■ — for, as a goddefs, fhe Shall ever be efteem'd by me. • We fee too, in the ftatues, (befides the countenance) the habits of thofe times, civil and military, which gives us a com- pleat idea of the whole perfon, and in that refpedl makes every portrait a hiftory-piece, as giving us a hiftory of the habits of thofe times : I mean hiftory as oppos'd to fable ; for the habits in the portraits of late ages, whether in fculpture or in painting, are lor the rnoft part merely fabulous, and fhew a perfon to after-ages in a drels and mien, fuch as they who were acquaint- ed with him never faw him in, and if they had, would poffibly not have known him. The mafters that firft introduc'd the change, had doubtlefs their reafons for it, (as this perhaps for one, that the modern habits are not pittorefque enough;) and fuch reafons may have their weight as to a pifture in general, but thereby we loofe a principal end propofed in a portrait, the reprelentation of the whole perfon. As the ftatues give us the pleafure of feeing the perfons of t'hefe great men, lb the baffo-relievo's give us authentick infor- mation of their cuftoms ; in their wars, their triumphs, their iacrifices, their marriages, feaftings, funerals, and many other particulars. And in thefe, indeed, the learned antiquary will find the greateft variety to his purpofe; tho'in the ftatues there be a great deal of learning too. In them we fee the particular fymbols of the feveral deities; and again, the feveral fymbols of the fame particular deity, whether as worfhip'd in different nations, or under different attributes in the fame nation. We fee the frolickfome humours of fome of the great perfons ; an emperor perhaps reprefented as a gladiator, or an Hercules; an emprefs as an lole. In which cafe, tho' the proper habit •of the emperor or emprefs mult of neceffity be laid by, yet that of the aflumed perfon or character, under which fuch empe- ror or emprefs is reprefented, isftriclly obferved by the fculptor, with- JPa$. 345. g'.Y'aiidcr giic/tf £**-iS . %4- ROME. VILLA BORGHESE. without indulging his fancy in imaginary unmeaning orna- ments, and fo he (till takes care to keep to his text. By the great difagreement there is among the antiquaries and crtticks concerning the latus clavus, and the very differing ac- counts, thofe who take upon them to defcribe it, give of it, it mould feem that it was fome ornament, either woven in the garment, or very thinly embroider' d on it, fo as not to come properly within the province of the fculptor ; elfe in fuch a multitude of reprefentations of the feveral forts of the Roman garments, as we fee in the antique ftatues, one would think fo difringuithing an ornament as that was, mull have been found, and the matter long ago put beyond difpute ; and the rather, if it was adiftinct and feparate ornament of itfelf, asFicaroni would have it, and did affirm it to be. What he fhew'd us for it, was not unlike a fhoulder-belt, but that it feem'd to confift of feve- ral folds, and to hang the contrary way, and not fo low; lying obliquely acrofs the breaft, over the left fhoulder, and under the right arm-pit ; and one part of it (or what feemed to be fo) hanging down upon the left breaft, from under that part which went quite acrofs. Some of them appear'd as if tuck'd into the tunick about the ftomach. I have given a draught of each, ta- ken as exactly as I had time and opportunity to do them, which will give a more diftinct idea of them than any words I can ufe. That which is here reprefented, N° i. is a drawing I made after a buft of Annius Verus in card. Alexander Albani's collection, already fpoken of. Some others, that I h'kewife took draughts of, differ very little from this. That N° 2. is after a buft of Scipio Africanus in the Pal. Rufpoli. Since my return home, I obferv'd upon a curious buft, which my Lord M'alpas brought from Rome, one fo much differing in the difpofuion of this ornament from both thefe, and from all others that I remem- ber to have feen, that I have, by his lordfhip's permiffion, given a draught of it likewife. I do not find that the connoiffeurs are fully agreed what this buft of his lordfhip's is ; but to me it feems to have a nearer refemblance of Pompey the Great than of arn^ other that I remember; only the face feems rather' thinner and older ; which, I believe, I have elfewhere hinted. This ornament, whatever it is, is pretty frequent in the bufts and ftatues of great men : therefore if it were indeed the latus V y elavus, 345 346 ROME. TRAJAN PILLAR. clavus, one would hardly imagine it mould have efcap'd the obfervation of fo many learned and inquifitive perfons who have treated of that fubjecT:. The opinions of feveral of them may be feen in Rennet's Roman Antiquities, and Dacier's Re- marks upon Horace, fat. v. 1. i. The bulla aurea is to be feen on fome few of the ftatues ; particularly one upon a young Nero, in this villa. Ficaroni has a real one, which he fhew'd us, and of which a draught is given in the plate of page 313. The bulla, as Macrobius in lib. 1. Saturn, c. 6. tells us, was antiently borne by conquerors in their triumphs : he calls it geftamen triumphantium, and adds, that they put certain charms in it, which they imagined were powerful againft envy. He mentions likewife that Tarquinius Prifcus bellowed the bulla and the prcetexta upon his fon, who at fourteen years of age fignaliz'd himfelf in the war againft the Sabines ; Infigniens- (fays Macrobius) puerum ultra annos fortem prcemils virilitatis & honoris. " Adorning the boy, who had (hewn a valour " beyond his years, with the rewards of manhood and ho- " nour." It became afterwards a more common ornament o£/ young noblemen. Trajan pillar. The Trajan and Antonine pillars, very well known by the- prints, are (I think) two as noble monuments of antiquity as. any in Rome. They are both of white marble, or what was- once fo,. though time has now. confiderably chang'd their, colour. The ftones,.of which thefe pillars, are built, are fo broad, that there is no part, from the bottom to the top, where the whole breadth of the pillar takes up more than one fingle ftone ; tho' the (haft of Trajan's pillar be above twelve foot diameter at the lower end, and ten foot and, a half at the upper, and the plinth of the bafe one and twenty foot fquare ; and the plinth of Antonine's pillar eight and twenty foot fquare. Thefe large ftones are piled one upon another till the pillar is raifed to its height. On the outfide of them are carved the figures in a con- tinued fpiral, going round the pillar from the bottom to the top : and within thefe is hollowed, out of the folid ftone, a ftair-cafe winding round a folid newel or pillar of the fame ftone left in.the middle for that purpofe. The lights are very narrow on, the. ROME. COLONNA CITORI A. the outride, that they might break in as little as poffible upon the train of figures in the baffo-relievo's j but are vviden'd much within, fo as to diffufe what light there does come through; and 'tis fuffkient to enlighten the flairs. By the accefs of earth, to which the ruins of the magnificent Forum Trajanum might not a little contribute, the Trajan pil- lar was part of it hid, bein^ buried near twenty foot deep ; but they have dug a fort of broad trench about it, which is fquare, being parallel to the pedeftal, and walled up on every fide to prevent the earth from tumbling in again ; and the bottom of it is even with the bottom of the pedeilal ; fo that now you may fee the whole. This pillar has been better preferv'd than the Antonine, which has fuffer'd much on one fide by fire : but the noble figure of the Jupiter Pluvius is perfectly well preferv'd. The fublimity of idea in that figure, I think, cannot be too much admired. It is to be feen in Bartoli's edition of this pillar, p. jr. This Ian: mention'd pillar contains the ads of Marcus Aure- lius Antoninus ; but by one of the infcriptions it appears to be dedicated to his father-in-law Antoninus Pius, Not far from it was the Bafilica Antonina, of which fome noble pillars are (till remaining. The Dogana or cuftom-houfe, in the front of which they fland, is now built up to them. There is another pillar, which was dug out of fome ruins in the time of Clement XI. and is not hitherto fet up : it lies on the Monte Citorio, and thence is commonly called theColonna Ci-Colonna toria. This pillar was dedicated to Antoninus Pius, by Mar- Cit0riiu cus Aurelius and Lucius Verus, his adopted fons, as appears by an infcription in large brafs capitals cemented in the oedeftal of the pillar, but rifing confiderably above the face of the ftone : and fo I find Fran. Aquila, in his print of that fide of the pe- deftal, and the infcription upon it, has reprefented the fhadow caff, from every letter. The infcription i?, DIVO • ANTONINO • AVG • PIO • ANTONINVS • AVGVSTVS ■ ET VERVS • AVGVSTVS • FILlT. H7 The 34? Triumphal arches. ROME. COLONNA CITORIA. The column is plain, of one intire ftone, a fort of red gra- nite; but the pedeftal, which is likewife a fingle ftone, befides the infcription, which takes up one fide, has bafib-relievo's on the other three fides, but not of the beft tafie. One fide reprefents the apotheofis of Antoninus Pius, and Fauftina his emprefs. They are borne up by a genius, who has in one hand a globe, and a ferpent feeming to crawl upon it, with his tail hanging down, crofs the arm that bears it : on the globe are reprefented the figns of the zodiac ; and that fign which is moft conlpicu- ous notes the time of the emperor's death. There are two eagles above, one looking towards the emperor and emprefs ;. the other looks down towards Rome, reprefented by a woman fitting in a mournful pofture. At the other corner below, is a representation of eternity, by a woman fitting, holding an obe- liik. On each of the other two fides is the funebris decurfio of the foldiers, as marching round the rogus ; the rogus itfelf is not exprefs'd there. This is Ficaroni's explication of the figures. They are to be feen engrav'd by Fr. /? 368; T I V O L I. From an eminence a little further we faw the remains of the villa of Mecaenas above-mention'd, as likewife thofe of Horace,, and of Quintilius Varus, which they now call Qmntiliano. Horace, in an ode infcrib'd to Varus, encourages him to plant vines, before any other tree, at this villa. Nullam, Vare, facra vite prius /even's arborem Circa mite folum Tiburis, & mcenia CatilL L. I. od. i8» Dear Varus, urge thy wife defign, And chiefly plant the noble vine In Tibur's fertile fhade, Or round Catille's walk Creech,. This was Varus the poet, according to Monfieur Dacier, and Hot the general, who perifh'd in Germany. Horace defcribes himfelf making verfes, at his own villa here. >— — ' — — — Ego, apis matinee More modoque Grata carpentis thyma, per laborem Plurimum, circa nemia, vvidique Tiburis ripas, operofa parvus Carmina Jingo. L, 4. od. 2. I, like a bee, with toil and pain, Fly humbly o'er moift Tibur's plain, And with a bufy tongue The little fweets my labours gain I work at laft into a fong. Creech. Between this place and Rome, Plorace feems, at one part of his life, to have divided his time, being alternately fond of each. Roma Tibur amo ventofus, Tibure Romam, At Tibur Rome, at Rome I Tibur love. Creech. In our way to Tivoli we faw fome confiderable remains of the Villa. Adriana ■> where were fchools of philofophy, and a temple T I V O L I. a temple dedicated to feven deities j the niches which held their fiatues are ftill to be teen. There are leveral vaults, ro- tonda's and others, of the opus reticulatum. The whole is brick-work, laid in feveral manners. There are ornaments of ftucco in fome of the roofs. This villa was of a vaft extent, as is now feen by its ruins. In the fame way, juft by the river Anio, we faw a large fepulchral monument, which the infcrip- tions that are on it (hew to be of the Plautii. One of them I tranfcrib'd, which was for Marcus Plautius, and is as follows. M . PLAVTIVS • M. F . A • N • SILVANVS COS . Vli VIR. EPVLON . HVIC . SENATVS . TRIVMPHAL1A ORNAMENTA DECREVIT OB . RES • IN . ILLYRICO BENE . GESTAS LARTIA . CN. F . VXOR A • PLAVTIVS • M • F . VRGVLANIVS VIXIT ■ ANN . IX . Here feems fome difficulty in the la ft line of the infcrip- tion, as to the age of Plautius ; which fome explain thus, (but idly enough, I think) That of the years of his life, only the laft ' nine are reckon'd, wherein he had fignaliz'd himfelf in the fer- vice of the common-wealth. But poffibly there may be an- other way of eafing the difficulty, if we fuppofe what now ap- pears to be IX to have been once LX, and the tail of the L worn out by time. In the little while I had to copy the in- fcription, I confefs I had not time to confider it, nor can I now take upon me to remember whether the fpace between the pre- fent I and X be fuch, as to admit of a fuppofition, that the former might once have been an L or no. If it be, that feems much theeatieft way of clearing the matter. The other infcrip- tion was for Titus Plautius, fon of Marcus, Legat. & Com. Claudii Ccefaris in Britannia, &c. The reft of the infcription was very long y fo. I did not tranfcribe it. A L B- A- \6 9 37° ALB A N O. B N O. TT7"E made an excurfion likewife from Rome to fee AI- * ' bano, [about fifteen miles thence] and the places about it. It is thought by the inhabitants, and by fome writers not very modern, to have been the Alba Longaof the antientsj but that is doubted by others. We took in our way thither, Marino, (a town already mention'd) where we law, in the new church, the fineft pi&ure that Guercin del Cento is known ever to have painted. It is the Flaying of S. Bartholomew. The de- fign is bold, and the colouring excellent. In another church there, we faw a celebrated pidture of Guido, a dead Chrifr, and Padre Eferno. From hence we went to take a view of the Lacus Albanus famous in the Roman hiftory, now called Lago di Caftello Gon- dolpho, from the Pope's country-feat of that name, which is fituated on a moff. pleafant eminence on one fide of it. On the o- therfideis mount Algidus, whither Hannibal came with his ar- my, and thence took a view of Rome when he was going to make his encampment before it j which has been already fpoken of. The lake is about two miles round, lying as it were in a bafon of high hills which furround it. We went down a difficult and unfrequented defcent on one fide, to fee the outlet of it, made purfuant to the anfwer of the oracle at Delphos, and one of the moft antient works now to be feen. It is call'd by Cicero {Divinationum, 1. !.] Admirabilis aquce Albance deduffio. The account, of the whole matter, as given by Livy, 1. r. is fomewhat extraordinary. The fum of it is this : While the Romans were at war with the Veientes, they were alarm'd by what they efteem'd an extraordinary prodigy, that the Alban lake, without rain, or any other apparent caufe, was rais'd to an unufual height. They fent to confult the oracle upon it ; before the return of the meffengers, a prifoner they had taken among the Veientes explain'd the matter to them. He told them, Sic libris fatalibus, fie dificiplind Etrufcd traditmn eft, tit quando aqua Albana abundafi'et, turn fi eum Romanits rite ewififfh, vicicriam de Veientibus dari ; antequam id fiat, Deos :,ia Veientium defcrturos 7ic?i e£'e. " It is fo fet down in " the I have a cafk of Alban wine Full nine vears old. — ■ — Creech. And Pliny gives it the next place after the Setinum and Fa- lernum. Ho w A L B A N O, kc How good foever fome of the -Italian wines are, that is no temptation to the people for drinking : they are generally at this day extremely fober. It feems to have been otherwise with them formerly, by what we find in theantient poets, and particularly Martial, of their drinking a glafs for every letter in the name of the perfon they were toafling. Nceviafex cyathu, feptem Jujlirta bibatur. Na:via fix glaffes, fev'n Juftina claims. Another infknce we have upon the occafion of a fine filver cup prefented him by Inftans Rufus. Bet tiumerum cyathis Infiantis litera Rufi, AuSlor enim tanti muneris We mihi. L, For ev'ry letter of his name, fill up A bumper to the donor of our cup. 8.ep. 51, If his miflrefs Telethufa comes to him according to appoint* ment, to keep himfelf in plight for her, he will venture on no more than four glaffes, the number of letters in Rufe, the vocative of Rufus, the latter name only, and the third part of the whole : if it be doubtful whether fhe comes or no, he takes feven, which is the number of letters in Inftans, the firft name : if fhe difappoints him, in not coming according to affig- nation, to drown his care, he refolves to drink a glafs to every letter in both the names of his donor, i. e. twelve. '— ■ 1 — — — Sifallit amantem Utjugulem cur as, nomen utrumque bibam. To drown my cares, if fhe neglect my I'll Inftans Rufus drink thro' both his n flames names. Infiead of that fort of work, they now-a-days never drink between meals, fuora di pajlo, (to ufe their own expreffion^ and then very fparingly. So that if any of them haopen to Vol. II. g 375 come 374 B O L S E N A. R A D I C O F A N L come in juft after dinner, before the wine is remov'd, 'tis noi the cuftom to afk them. to drink. If they are thirfty, whether you aflc them or no, and whether it be there or no, they will deiire a glafs of wine and water, for one draught, and no more. B O E N A T Bolfena, [about forty miles from Rome] in a church- yard, is an old Sarcophagus fet on two pieces of pillars, with fome odd fculptures in baflb-relievo. At one end is a woman naked, more than from the waift upward, — quce nu- ditatem fatyri prehendit : at the other end is Silenus drunk, fupported by one behind him, who embraces him round the middle; and there are other figures on each fide of him : on one fide of the Sarcophagus are two lions heads, larger, in pro- portion, than thofe of the other figures : a woman lying down, almoft naked, with other naked figures, boys, &c. On the other fide are two Medufa's heads, large as life : a youth playing on the tibia dextra & fmiftra, [pipes, one for the right hand, and the other for the left :] another with an inftrument, crooked at one end, as the Augur's ftaffis de- fcribed ; moft likely to be here that fort of trumpet which in fhape refembled the Augur's ftaff, and thence borrowed the name of lituus, or fome other, not much differing from it, ufed in the Bacchanalia, [the feafts held in honour of Bacchus :] a Satyr, with his hands tied behind him, butting with his head at a goat : this laft is an exceffive comical groupe. We may fee by fuch a fett of fanciful ornaments how merry the antients made with death. This Sarcophagus, as a notable memento mori, is placed hard by the entrance into the church. This town ftands at the corner of a fine lake, which bears the fame name, Lago di Bolfena, which they told me is thirty miles in compafs. About twenty miles further, at Ponte Centino, we leave the Pope's territories, and enter thofe of the great duke. About eight miles from thence is the caftle of Radicofani, the fiifton the great duke's frontiers that way : it ftands on an. high eminence, which is rais'd considerably above the reft of the mountain. Below the caftle, there is a large and well- 5 built SIENNA, built inn, with a chapel in one part of it, ere&ed by the great duke, for the convenience of travellers ; for, tho' there is a town on the mountain, below the cattle, the afcent to it from the road is difficult, juft before the inn is a fountain of very good water. There are feveral high mountains on each fide of this, whofe tops are generally covered with clouds. The country is rocky and barren hereabouts, but the roads are well pav'd, as they are generally throughout the great duke's dominions ; much better than in thofe of his holinefs. In the way further on, towards Sienna, we parTed at fome diftance by Mont Alcino, and Monte Pulciano, famous for their wines. SIENNA. ~*HE dome of Sienna is a fine ftruifture, the materials are sienna, rich, and the workmanfhip mod elaborate : it is all of mar- ble, infide and out : the ornaments are exquifitely nice in the Gothick way. The great pillars of the church are black and white marble, ftratum fuper Jiratum, alternate} which looks tawdry; but the floor has an ornament truly fine, and uncom- mon : it is defigned, in Scripture-ftories, by Domenico Becca- fumi, commonly called Meccarino j the defigns are not Mofaic, (as fome have faid) but are engraved in white marble, and the gravings filled up with a black mixture. The ftyle of thefe de- signs is truly great, and in fome parts well executed, particularly in that of Abraham offering Ifaac : they keep them cover'd with boards framed and joined together as fo many table-leaves, at all times, except when they {hew them to ftrangers. Signor Spanochi, a nobleman of Sienna, has the original defigns : I went to have begg'd a fight of them, but he happen'd to be out of town. The Capella Chigi in this church made by pope Alexander VII. is exceeding beautiful, and in a true tafie of architecture. There are in it two fine ftatues of Bernini ; S. Mary Magdalene, and S. Jerom ; and two fine paintings of Carlo Marat, a Holy Family, and the Vifitation of the BTvir- gin. Thefe they do not always (hew, unlefs enquired after. A place they call the Old Library, but which has now no books in it, is painted in compartiments on the wall, the Hiftory of Pope Pius II. iEneas Sylvius, defign'd by Raphael, and executed, as mo ft agree, by Pinturiccio, but as they fay there, B a by 37$ 17& S I E N N A, by Pietro Perugino, who was Raphael's mailer. The face^ are many of them portraits : they. are moft of them exceed- ing frefh and beautiful, not the leaft damag'd by fo long a time, not lefs now than two hundred years : there are fome real emboffments of horfe-trappings, fword-hilts, &c. which look a little tawdry. Under each hiftory is an infcription to declare the fubjec~t. Mr. Miffon has made a great blunder about one a 'Tis the fur- * of thefe, and in a fucceeding addition ftands to it. He tells leftYandT US > V ° L 1L P" 3 ! 5> ° f the En g li(h edition ' that " The P °Pe's you come into *' foul flying up under the figure of a Bird of Paradife, and the place, the t f t h e honeft hermit gazing on it, is a much efteemed piece." laft part of the _, . , - , . * - P . . r , , . " . . 3ory. That is not tneiubject 01 the piece, nor is anyiuch thing in it. The defign of the piece is a reprefentation of the expedition of that pope again ft the Turks ; and he is reprefented in the picture,, living, and going out upon his expedition. That he M died; S I N N A. eKed in that expedition, and that his foul was feen by a- hermit of Camaldoli carried up into heaven, is told, indeed in the Latin lines written under the piece, but is not reprefented in it : nor is there any Bird of Paradife either [ctn in the picture, or mentioned in the infcription. What he might miftake for that, are two birds flying (not upwards, but) downwards to- wards a tree, one a little after the other, and their two tails,. diverging a little, make fuch a fort of appearance as the tail of a Bird of Paradife is reprefented with, as in the defign here given. He tells us further, that fince, palling thro' Sienna, he did not find this picture there ; and would make the world be- lieve that the picture was- removed, in order to contradict his relation. They would think that well worth their while, no doubt, fuppofing it could have been done j but this piece, as it happens, is painted on a wall, as the other parts of the ftory, are ; and there it remains, and the very fame infcription he cites is ftill under it. In the middle of the fame room are the, three Graces, antique, in marble. In the chapel of S. John Baptiil they have an arm (as they tell you) of that faint : it is kept under three keys, in the polfefiion of three different perfons : fo we had the great mif- fortune not to fee it. But they (hew an infcription as long as the arm, importing. That it was given by a king of Pelopo- nefus * to Pius II. and by him to this church, 1464. A TMrna* TheMGrew Paleologo Peloponneji rege datum Pio jecundo, & ab ilk liuic ec- clejla, 1464. The ftreets of Sienna, are feveral of them paved with brick fet edge-ways ; and in many of the publick places of the city there are figures of fhe-wolves fet, fingle, upon pillars, and other eminencies, fome in marble, fome in copper ;. feveral of them have confiderable marks of antiquity. The (he-wolf is (as 1 was told) the arms of Sienna. It is pretty generally known that here is a confiderable uni- verfity }. and fyme fay that Italian is fpoken beft here, if you take in both the language and the pronunciation together, which are confidered feparately in the proverb, Lingua Tofranil in bocca Romana. " The Tufcan language in a Roman mouth." Tho' Sienna be fo near Florence, and now under its dominion, Ididnpt obferve any of that guttural pronunciation which th'e Florentines 373 LEGHORN. Florentines have. They do not like the Florentine yoke fo well, as to compliment them in their difagreeable manner of fpeaking. LEGHORN. T E G H O R N, the Libernum of the antients, now Livorno, ■*— ' is too well known to the Englifh nation to need much to be faid of it. There are fo many Englifh always refiding there, and fo many of our merchant-fhips ufe that port, that our language is underftood by many natives of that place ; fo that even in walking along the ftreets, one fhould not fpeak that in Englifh, which he would not care to have a Livornine hear. This is the only city in Italy where the Englifh nation is allowed to have the free exercife of their religion. Their chapel is a handfome apartment in the conful's houfe, which is large and fine, and efteemed the beff. in the city. From the top of this houfe one may fee eight or nine feveral independent dominions, or fuch at lead as have been lately fo. We faw at Mr. Crow's, who was then chaplain of the fac- tory, a fine collection of drawings, antique intaglio's, cameo's, and other curiofities. They were (I think) the collection of a late viceroy of Naples. The ftatue of the Great Duke, with four flives chained to the pedeftal, is a very noble ornament; the figures are about twice as big as the life: they lland juft without the city-wall, by the fide of the old port. That of the Great Duke is of white marble, the work of Felice Palma ; thofe of the flaves are of copper; the old flave is by Giovanni de Bologna, the other three by Pietro Tacca ; as I was told by a Florentine fculptor, who has the original clay-models of them the fame fize with the ftatues : that of the old flave is moil excellent, and all the flaves are (I thinkj better than the principal figure. Seme imagine the four flaves to reprefent four feveral parts of the Turkifh Dominions : one of the young ones is manifeftly in- tended for a negro. The galley-flaves at Leghorn 'feem to fare better than thofe at Marfeilles, Genoa, &c. They are not confined to fleep a nights upon their benches, but have lodgings on more, fuch as they are, in a place they call the Bagnio : they are exceed- ing LEGHORN. ing clofe, and muft certainly be noifome in the hot weather: The beds lie as on (helves, one over another (with only room enough left between the {helves, for them to creep into the beds) as the bodies do in the catacombs. There are hofpitals for the fick ; one for the Christians, an- other for the Turks ; the former has an altar at the further end, where I faw the pried: officiating, and beds rang'd all along on each fide. Not far off the new port there Hands out in the fea an octan- gular tower of marble, made by the Pifans when Leghorn was theirs, much in the manner of that at Athens, asdefcrib'd by Monf. Spon, and others : the eight faces anfwering to the eight winds. The Jews have a handfome fynagogue in this city. The king of Denmark being there in the year 1709, would not go to any of the Roman Catholic churches, but went to the fyna- gogue, as they fay ; of which they keep a memorial in an in- fcription on the ftair-cafe which goes up to it. Leghorn had a narrow efcape from the plague that infected Marfeilles : the officers of the Sanita had once allow'd the cargo of the (hip, which carried the infection thither, to be brought on more; but upon fomefrefti information, it was for- bid by the great duke ; and the deliverance is afcrib'd to an image of the B. Virgin, a little way out of town, called the Madonna di Monte Nero. About four miles from Leghorn is a houfe which they call Palazzo Inglefe; it is a place of refrefhment for the Englim that go out a (hooting, and upon other diverfions. There are in the road from Leghorn to Pifa, and alfo on ' another fide Pifa, great woods of cork-trees, ever-green oaks, whofe leaf much refembles that of the cork, Licini [Ilex] and our common oak : fome of thefe woods are about eight miles long : at the end of one of them, about three or four miles from Pifa, whither the fea (they fay) formerly came, is the church of S. Pietro in Grado, built in memory of S. Peter's landing there, when he came from Antioch in his way to Rome; and in it they (hew the altar, at which they pretend he faid his fir ft mafs. That the reader may have the hiftory the more authentick, the infcription follows, which I took in the church. D. 379 PISA. D • O • M • A *. ANNO A PARTV VIRGINIS XLIV. D. PETRVS AP0ST0LORVM .PRINCEPS, DVM ANTIOCHIA ROMAM PETERET, AD PISANVM XITVS APPVLSVS, t HOC IPSO LOCO, VBI MEDIO FERE TEM- PLO SACELLVM VISITVR, ARA INSTRVCTA MARMOREA IN- CRVENTVM FECIT SACRIFICIVM. " In the forty-fourth " year from the birth of Chrift, S. Peter, prince of the apo- " (lies, in his way from Antioch to Rome, arriving at the " Pifan fhore, in-}- that very place, where, near the middle of " this church, the fhrine, lb much reforted to, now Hands, M built a marble altar, and offered the unbloody facrifice." They fhew likewife the place where S. Peter tied his boat, with a grate before it. There are in this church antique pillars of feveral orders, as m fome of the old Bafilica; about Rome. JEn. x» |3IS A is of very antient origin, having been built by the ■*- Alphean Pifasans, foon after the war of Troy, according to Strabo and others, and antiently called Pifas, as the city in Greece was from whence its founders came. Virgil gives it the fame original, but makes it antienter ; intimating it to- have been a city, before iEneas's arrival in Italy. Hos par ere jubent Alphec? ab origine Pifce TJrbs EtruJ'ca Jolo. — • Pifae, a Tufcan town, fupplies thefe bands, Pife, firfr. founded by , Iphean hands. The city is large and fair, water'd by a fine river, the Arno, which runs through it ; but it is thinly peopled. The principal things they take travellers to fee, are the Dome, the Baptiftery, the Campo Santo, and the Leaning Tower, all built of white marble, and fhnding near together under one view, in a large open pleafant place. * I know not what this [A] fhould mean, uniefs it be an initial for AETERNO. t Hoc muft be tranllated [thai] not [this], for the infcription is at one end of the ••church, at a diflance from the chapel. i The PISA, The dome is built, according to fignor Martini (a canon of that church whom we faw there, and who has written a large account of it) in the place where were formerly Adrian's baths, whereupon he makes the following remark ; Locum quern pro detergendis cor forum firdikus Juperjlitiofa gentilitas confecra- verat, . fro abluendis animarum maculis religiofa civitas Pi/ana dedicavit. " The place which the fuperftitious hea- " thens had confecrated to the cleanfing away the filth of the " body, the religious city of Pifa has dedicated to the wafh- " ing out the fpots of the foul." It is a fine ftrudture, and full of paintings, fome of which are very good : but what I thought the moft remarkable ornament, was, the three bra- zen gates at the weft end, defign'd (as they told us) princi- pally by John de Bologna, aflifted by Francavilla and others ; executed by Fa. Domecino Portigiano, a Dominican, and An- gelo Serrano. This is the account they give there ; but the work feems to be much more ancient than the time of thofe mafters here mention'd. On the middle gate is reprefented the hiftory of the B. Virgin, and on the other two, the hif- tory of our Saviour, in baflb-relievo. The feveral ftories are feparated by moft curious ornaments of foliage, fruit, birds, lizards, and other animals, all exquifitely perform'd. Without the church, towards the eaft end thereof, ftands a pillar, on the top of which is placed the famous vafe of white marble, The fubje&s are chiefly fcrip- tural, with an addition of fome of their own legends, and other fancies, which have fome particulars whimfical and extravagant enough. To begin with the fide we come in at, which is the fouth fide ; the firft defign at the eaft end of it, is what indeed more particularly fuits a ccemeterium; they call it the Triumph of Death. The three next are, Judgment, Paradife, and Hell. Then follow what they call The Lives of the Hermits. After that, the hiftory of the great faint and patron of Pifa, S. Rainerius, in fix compartiments. Then, the ftories of fome others of their faints. Laft of all, on this fide is the ftory of Job. PISA. Job, in fix large compartiments, by the famous Giotto. All thefe are contain'd in the fouth fide. The weft end is chiefly taken up with fome hiftories of the Old Teftament, as queen Hefther and Ahafuerus, Judith and Holofernes. The paint- ings on the north fide begin with a reprefentation of the GREAT CREATOR, of whom are km only the head and hands ; for, the whole fpace between his extended arms is fill'd with hierarchies of angels, the celeftial orbs, with the elements, &c. as comprehending the whole creation. Then immediately follows the formation of the feveral animals ; of man; of his plantation in, and his expulfion out of, paradife, with feveral other hiftories as they follow in the Old Teftament, which ars continued the whole length of this cloifter without any interruption quite to the end. At the eaft end is a chapel ; and on each fide the entrance into it are likewife paintings. On that toward the north are continued fome other hiftories of the Old Teftament. On that toward the fouth are the crucifix- ion, refurredtion, and afcenfion of our Saviour. And now, having taken a general view of the defigns, and being come again to the point where I began, I will mention a few particulars in fome of them. In the piece firft mention'd, Death is reprefented by an ugly old woman with a fcythe, flying with black wings : heaps of carcaffes lie under; empe- rors, kings, popes, poor and rich, all confufed : angels are taking the fouls of the juft out of their mouths, in the ibape of little naked infants ; devils, thofe of the reprobate ; which are reprefented more grofs. An angel and adevil have got that of a fat friar between 'em, in the air, tugging hard, one at each end, which fhall have him : a crowd of people below, old, poor, lame, and miferable, as wifhing for Death, butfhe rather dire&s her fcythe to fome gay young perfons of both fexes, -who are making merry in a pleafant fhade of orange- trees, &c. In a corner of this piece is reprefented what they fay is the property of Jerufalem earth (alluding to that in the area) to reduce a body to a fkeleton in twenty four hours: in the firft eight hours itfwells; inthefecond, the fwelling is fal- len flat, the body corrupted, and worms crawl out; in the third it is reduced to a fkeleton : but, till fome good proof be produced that this is really the property of Jerufalem earth, I C 2 fhall sh 384 PIS A. mall believe it only an inftance of the Triumph of Death, which it was the painter's intention to reprefent in the general piece, in feveral manners. However, in this condition lie three carcafles, info many feveral Sarcophagi j and there is one who mews them to three great perfons who come towards them on horfeback : one of them leans back, with much diflike, and holds his nofe ; the horfe pokes out his head, as frighted, and fnorting. On this piece is written, Schermo difapere e di richezza, Di nobiltate e di prodezza, * Sc. Morte; Val niente al colpo di cojiei *, Nor wifdom's guard, nor riches, join'd, Nor noble birth, nor val'rous mind f Sc. Death. Avail againft her -j- blow. In the piece of the Laft Judgment, the painter has put fe- veral particular perfons of his own friends in paradile, and a- mong the reft, Pope Innocent IV. A friar, who is got among the blefled, is lugg'd out by an angel to take his ftation on the other fide. In the reprefentation of Hell, a great monftrous devil fits in the middle, with flames as it were mooting from him each way : his underlings are varioufly employed in inflicting torments, fome with fcourges, which they call Difciplines, and feveral other ways : they are roafting one before the fire, with a great fpit run up through him ; a little devil is turning the fpit at one end, the other end of it is in the mouth of one of the tor- mented. — The piece of roaft-meat, fo fpitted, they tell you, is a Florentine. Very whimfical fancies in fo ferious a fub- ject ! King Solomon is plac'd in the middle between paradife and hell, the painter not knowing where to put him, becaufe (as they fay there) it is a difputed point among the doctors whe- ther he be laved or damned : they're well employ'd, fure, in fuch difputes ! In the life of S. Rainerius is reprefented a paf- fage between that faint and a vintner, who brought him water among his wine. The faint fhews him the confequence of fuch practice, by pointing out to a devil, who fits perch'd upon a hogfhead PISA. 3*5 a hogfhead in the form of a flying cat. The faint miraculoufly feparates the water from the wine, and pours it diftinct upon the ground. In another piece, which reprefents the ftory of Noah and Cham, &c. Noah lies naked, and a young woman going off, turns back her head, covers her face with her hand, but with the fingers fpread, fo as to fee between them : this figure is what they call the Vergogna [(hame or baihfulnefs.] Several other ludicrous fancies there are, which I forbear repeating : thefe are perhaps more than fufficient for a fpecimen of the manner of thinking of thofe old mailers. Mich. Angelo, in his famous piece of the Laft Judgment, and Zuccaro in his- cupola of the dome at Florence, feem to have retained a good deal of the fame ludicrous and capricious way of thinking in fuch fubje&s. The painting in this fine cloifter is moft of it hard, according to the manner then in ufe ■ ; nor is there any great obfervance of the chiaro ofcuro [Raphael himfelf, a good while after, was fcarce come into it ;} but many of the countenances are very expreffive and good, particularly in thofe of Giotto and Be- nozzo. ^ In fuch pieces where there is architecture reprefented [as particularly in the ftory of Job by Giotto,] it is very accu- rately performed, according to the tafte of thofe times. There are feveral fine marble monuments of a later date, with good= fculpture ; one of them is of Philippus Decius Mediolanenfis, who (according to the infcription) not willing to truft thofe who were to come after him, took care himfelf to have a fe- pulchre made for him. — Hoc fepulchrum fibi fabricari curavit,. ne pojieris fuis crederet. But the moll curious things for an antiquary's obfervation are two mfcriptions on marble, fet up in the fouth wall of this fine cloifter: they contain the particulars of the honours de- creed by the Pifan colony to the memory of Lucius, and of Caius Ca?far, fons of Auguftus * ; one of them, thofe decreed *Th a ti s> b y to Lucius, the other thofe to Caius. In thefe we fee authen- aJo P tion - tick inftances of fome of the funeral rites obferved by the Ro- mans, with the manner of their publick mourning, &c. In that of Lucius, among other things, it is ordered, " That " a black ox and a black fheep, adorned with blue fillets, Ihould 5 " be 3'3.6 PISA. c: be facrificed to his manes ; and that the facrifices fliould " be burned, and that urns of milk, of honey, and of oil, " mould feverally be poured upon them, whiiit thofe that of- " ficiated, having their garments tucked up according to the " Gabinian rite, mould fet fire to the pile of wood, &c. BOS . ET . OVIS . ATRI . INFVLIS . CAERVLEIS . INFVLATI . DIIS . MANIBVS . EIVS . MACTENTVR . EAEQVE . HOSTIAE . ADOLEANTVR . SVPERQVE . EAS . SINGVLAE . VRNAE . LACTIS . MELLIS . OLE! . FVNDANTVR -. . • With a C. DVM . II . QVI . IMMOLAVERINT . CINCTI . * CABINO . RITV . STRVEM . LIGNORVN . SVCCENDANT. &c. In that of Caius is fet forth the general grief at the news of a prince's death, who died of wounds received for the com- monwealth ; VOLNERIBVS . PRO . REPVBLICA . EXCEPTIS, &c. and at a time while their forrow was yet frefh for the deceafe of Lucius his brother, who died but the year before. Among other things, " It is declared to be agreed by general " confent," (for the magiftrates were abfent, to whom it be- longed to command it) " that from the day that his death was " notified there, till the day that his bones mould be brought " back and buried, and the funeral rites to him compleated, " all ought to go into mourning, the temples of the immortal " gods, and the publick baths, and all the (hops be fhut up, " and affemblies and entertainments be forborn. That the " matrons mould mourn iilently. That the day on which " C. Caslar died, which day was the 21ft of February, mould " be noted down to pofterity, and remembered as an unhappy " day. That care mould be taken that from that time for- " ward no facrifices mould be performed, no Amplications " made, no efpoufals entered into, nor publick feafls ap- " pointed on the 21ft of February, and that no ftage-plays, " or games of the circus, mould be performed or feen on that " day; inafmuch as on that day annually, funeral rites mould " be performed to the manes of C. Cffifar by the magiftrates " of Pifa." OPORTERE . EX . EA . DIE . QVA . EIVS . DE- • R is with CESSVS . NVNCIATVS . ESSET . VSQVI *. AD . EAM . DIEM. an X. qva . OSS A . RELATA . ATQVE . CONDITA . IVSTAQVE . EIVS . MANIBVS . PERFECTA . ESSENT . CVNCTOS . VESTE . MVTATA . PISA. MVTATA . TEMPLISQVE . DEORVM . IMMORTALIVM : BALNEISQVE . PVBLICIS . ET . TABERNIS OMNIBVS . CLAV- SIS . CONVICTIBVS . SESE . APSTINERE . MATRONAS .... SVBLVGERE . DIEMQVE . EVM . QVO DIE . C. CAESAR . OBlT . QUI . DIES . EST . A. D. VlIiT K. MARTIAS .... PRO . ALLIENSI . LVGVBREM . MEMORIAE . PRODI . NOTARF- QVE CAVERIQVE . NE . QVOD . SACRIFICIVM . PVBLICVM . NEVE . QVAE . SVPPLICATIONES . NIVE . SPON- SALIA . NIVE . CONVIVIA . PVBLICA . POSTEA . IN . EVM . DIEM ....... FIANT . CONCIPIANTVR . INDICANTVRVE • NIVE . QVI . LVDI . SCAENICI . CIRCIENSESVE . EO . DIE . FIANT . SPECTENTVRVE . VTIQVE . EO . DIE . QVOD ANNIS . PVBLICE . MANIBVS . EIVS . PER . MAGISTRATVS EOSVE . QVI . PISIS . IVRE . DICVNDO . PRAEERVNT . EO- DEM . LOCO . EODEMQVE . MODO . QVO . L. CAESARI PARENTARI . INSTITVTVM . EST . PARENTENTVR. And all this is fet forth to be PRO MAGNITVDINE TANTiE AC TAM IMPROVISE CALAMITATIS. << Upon account of the " greatnefs of a calamity fo heavy and fo unforefeen." It is likewife agreed that a triumphal arch fhould be eredted, and adorned with the fpoils of the nations Caius had conquered, &c. and with a ftatue of Caius in a triumphal habit, and with equeftral ftatues gilt of Caius and Lucius both. I made en- quiry concerning the arch, but could not hear of any remains of it, or of the ftatues. Thus much of the fubftance of the infcriptions may fuffice here: they are publimed at large in canon Martini's book. 3*7 * See alfo cnr- above-mentioned *, which we compared carefully with the originals, and marked fome little differences; as in that to.«£ NorS Caius, he has CLAVIS, after TABERNIS OMNIBVS, infiead of u P on the m, CLAVSIS ; with fome other literal miftakes. I have inferted nothing but what I tranfcribed from the infcriptions them- felves, and what agrees exadlly with them. While we were com- paring the copies given in Martini, and a tranfcript which I had made of the moil material parts,, with the original infcrip- tions, and were reading concerning tapers and torches [of which mention is made in another part not here inferted], in. cam a Cafar Intpe- rator u^iius. PISA; came a parcel of friars, all with tapers in their hands, to fing a requiem to fome body that had been buried hard by. — I al- moft thought they were come to do the honours of the decree we were reading. Between thefe infcriptions is a columna milliaria, on which is infcribed as follows : CAES . I . AEL . ADRIANVS . ANOlNNVS . AVG . PIVS . P • M • TR • P • VI . COS . iiT. IMP • I! . P • P • VIAM . AEMILIAM . VESTVSTATE . DILAPSAM . OPERIB . AMPLIATlS . RESTITVENDAM . CVR . A ROMA . M • P . CLXXXVIII . There are marks of the remains of fome letters in this in- terval, but not legible. AD PISAM TRANSLATA MDCCIV. The famous Leaning Tower (of which we have many prints in England) is a piece of fine archittdlure, tho' its not {land- ing upright has a very difagreeable effect : the people of the place fay that its leaning on one fide was contrived on purpofe by the architect : if that be true, he feems to have excelled in an error, and (hewn rather what might, than what ought to be done. But Signor Galilei, the great duke's architect, is firmly of opinion, that it was by accident, by the ground's giving way on one fide after it was built ; for that the pedef- tals of the pillars, which are under ground, are in the fame inclined pofition with thofe above ; and (what is more) that the fcaffold-holes, which remain unfilled, are all Hoping. The ftairs within, by which we went up to the top, are all inclining too. Though it appear fo tottering, it Hands very firm, the whole being of marble, and the parts very well cramped and cemented together, fo that it may be confidered only as one ftone, and the center of gravity falling confidera- bly within the bafe. I forbear L U C C A." I forbear faying any thing of the Garden of Simples, and fome other things of lefs note, which they fhewed us, to avoid prolixity. From Pifa towards Lucca the country is plain, and well planted, for three or four miles, to the mountain of S. Julian ; which we mounted by feveral indentures; the afcent and de- fcent is called three miles. — From thence, the way, for four miles more, lies over a fine, fertile, and well-cultivated plain, to Lucca. U A. f^H E Lucchefe are fo fcrupulous and nice, in their care to A prevent infection, that we were forced to have not only ■ourfelves and fervants, but our horfes and our dog fpecified in our fede. At the gate the officers took all the fire-arms we had in their cuftody, and gave us a tally for reftoring them at our going away : they likewife gave us a billet to be deliver- ed to the landlord at the inn, without which he could not re- ceive us. So careful is that little republick againft any furprize too! the town is well fortified, and the walk on the ramparts is very pleafant, and mews a fine country below it. The better fort of houfes are handfomely adorned with architecture at the entrance. In the church of S. Fredian is the tomb of S. Richard, a king of England, unknown to our chronicles : he was father to S. Valburga, to S. Villebald, and S. Vinebald, as fome monk- iih verfes there fet forth, which I forbear troubling the reader with. In the church of S. Michael is a monument erecled to a bifhop of Worcefier, Sihefiro Gilio, Epifcopo JFigornien. Bri- tannia Regum Henrici VlL & fill, apud Pont. Max. Le- gato. The chapel of the Volto Santo, -in the great church or dome, ftands ifolata, and has on its outfide the four Evangc- lifts, and S. Sebaftian in white marble. The Volto Santo is an image of Nicodemus, to which the Lucchefe pay very great veneration, and their coin is {tamped with a copy of it. One of their {lories concerning it, is, that a poor man praying Vol. II. D before 39.a L U C C A. fore that image, for relief in his extreme poverty, the image having a pair of filver flippers on at that time, threw one of them to him : the flipper was miffed, and the poor man feized : he confeffed he had it, but declared how he came by it : the flipper (however) was taken away from him, and put again upon the foot of the image ; but the image again toffed it to the poor man ; and the foot, that had kick'd away the flipper, re- maining held up after,- they thought fit to. put a chalice under. it, to fupport it, which we fee continuing under it ftilh. In the church of S. Auguftine, in one of the fide-chapels,, is what tbey call the Imagine Miraculofa : , the Miraculous Image,, or picture : it is a picture of a Madonna, with a Chrift upon her left arm ;■ they fay that originally fhe held him in her right arm ; but that an- unfortunate gamefter, being enraged T and defperate at the lofs of his money, and imputing to the Virgin, his ill fortune, and blafpheming, threw a Hone at, her, which, coming direclly-at the head of the Chrift, the dexteroufly fhift- ed him to her left arm, and received the blow upon her own- ihoulder; from whence the blood immediately iffued. Howel s . in his letters, mentions a picture in France of which they tell, alike ftory : but they further add here, that the gamefter im- mediately funk into the ground up to his middle, and ftuck fo, for about two hours, to give him time to repent, and afk the Blefied Virgin's pardon ; but he continuing ftill to blafpheme^, ut laft funk downright.; and the hole which is ftill open, thro' which he fell, they tell you is not to be fathomed. They unco- ver it for the curious and the devout to look into, but at the- depth of a few feet, you fee an iron grate crofs it, which breaks^ any further view into the pretended great abyfs. On the wall*, over the hole, are thefe two verfes cut in marble : Proluat nt culpatn dat Virgo fangtmih undam, . At cadit ignorans impius ejji piam. To cleanfe his fault, her blood the Virgin gives;. But the wretch finks, nor yet the grace perceives. ^nd over that is painted in frefco the fellow naked, (for he.- had.loft.fhht. aod.al!) ftuck to the wafte in the ground, with, flames :. LUCCA. flames all about him. Some drops of the blood, which they pretend came out of the moulder of the piclure, are preferved within a cryftal, and (hewn with grea' • emony, tapers be- ing lighted up, and theprieft that mews it being folemnly clo- thed in his veltments, with other afiittants attending. We were unawares led to this extraordinary fight by a Genoefe abbe we met with in the church, but were not appriz'd of the pom- pous apparatus and folemnity which was to attend it. The company wasall to kneel, and kifs the facred relique as the pried handed it about : one of the company, whom the pried obferved to kifs it but (lightly, and not to touch the cryftal with his lips, but fome gilt pillars only with which, it was arm'd, gave it a further thruft forwards, to the hazard of the gentleman's teeth. The Genoefe abbe was got in the rear of a numerous company, that had got together, upon hearing the facred relique was to be expos'd, and the prieft had like to nave mifs'd him ; upon which he call'd out, Io non ho bafiato [I have not kifs'd itj and had it then handed to him. It was hoped his zeal would atone for the other's lukewarmnefs. A fine golden crofs which they keep at the Dome was pawn'd to them by the Pifans, while they were a republic, on condition the money fhould be repaid on a certain day, or the crofs be forfeited; as I was inform'd by the Genoefe abbe; who told me further, (what I mould hardly have heard from a Lucchefe) that the day the Pifans were to come with their mo- ney, the Lucchefe form'd a fham tumult in their city, and un- der that pretence fhut their gates ; fo that when the Pifans came, they could not get admittance, and thus incurr'd an in- voluntary forfeiture, thro' the artifice of the others. 39' O A. I S T O I A, about twenty miles from Lucca, and the fame from Florence, is fubjedt to the great duke : it is a good town, with fair open ftreets. y%& F I S T O I A, &c; In an oblong portico at the entrance, are paintings in frcfco,. which represent feveral leafls of" a miraculous Madonna, which is kept in the church. The dome or great church is nothing extraordinary. The Baptillery, oppoilte to it, is a handlbme plain building j, a ru- tonda. There is another church [I think it is the Annunciata] in- erufted all with marble on the outride, but nothing extraordi- nary within. It was market-day when we were there ; I obferv'd a banner hanging out in the market-place 5 which they told me was a re- straint from felling fo long as that hung out, to prevent fore- stalling, and to allow time for more fellers and buyers to eome in. In the mid-way between Piftoia and Florence is P'oggio a. Gaiano, one of the great duke's country-feats. There is a hall, which was begun to be adorn'd by Pope Leo X. finifh'd by Fran- oefco de' Medici, the fecond grand duke. Here are frefco- paintings by Andrea del Sarta in 15-21, and by Alexander Al- lorius in 1582. On the cieling of the next room is the apotheofis of Cofmo the firft, by Gabbiani, a painter living at Florence, when we were there ; — the youngeft man of feventy years that I have- feen ; and a good mafter. — I hear iince that he died unfortu- nately ; painting, after that age, in a high part of fome church,, and unwarily ftepping back to view his work, he fell oft the fcaffold to the ground. There is- another room furnifh'd with fmall pictures of feveral. eminent mailers, Leonardo da Vinci, Caraeci, Barocci, &c. A Holy Family, by Han. Caraeci : The countenance of the Chrift excellent. We faw a fine copy of this afterwards, done by Fratolina, a female artift of Florence, who comes neareft to Rofa Alba of Venice for miniature, and I think does at lead equal her for crayons in large. Another. Holy Family by Lucio Maffari, well perform'd,, but of a low thought: — theB. Virgin is warning linen: Chrift ts- wringing them ; and Jofeph is hanging them on the hedge to dry. Abundance of excellent pieces there are in this room, too many to enumerate,. Z FL.CK A^ 303 - *7 tf /7Lir/'/s &rid# at ffltw^ /wvm? <^a£W /Zfv/uv. 3^^' Jr/tY (/.-} ' an.kro'idt' V'-rit F L O ■ R E N C E. 3"9>3 O R E N E. T is not undefervedly that this place has obtain'd the name _ " of Florence the Fair. Nothing can be more pleafant than its fituation, as we law it, and the country on all fides of it, from the top of the cupola of the dome. It ftands in the middle of a fine fertile plain, all planted with vines, &c. that again encompafs'd aimofl round with hills, whofe bottoms are very agreeably enliven'd with a great number of pleafant villa's of the nobility, and other private houfes. The river Arno runs thro' the city, and has four handfome bridges over it 5 one of which is particularly celebrated : it was made by Ammanati v the arches of it, after a rife of a few feet from the place whence they fpnng, are turned in the form of a cycloid ;. a particularity which they fay no other bridge in the world has. It is all of fine white marble ; and there are four ftatues of the fame, re- preienting the four feafons, two placed at each end of the bridge : the whole is very fine, and I have therefore given a draught of it, as taken with great exaflnefs by Signor Galilei, the great dukes architect above-mentioned, who is a moll excellent ar- tift, and a perfon the moft obliging, the moil communicative,, and of the greateft civility in all refpecls that I think we met with in our travels ; he was fome time here in England, and expreffes a particular refpecl: for the Engliih. He was very ierviceable to us upon many accounts, both while we were at Florence, and after we left it. • The ftreets are pav'd with broad flat ftones, after the manner of the old Roman ways. Abundance of very good ftatues are interfperfed in the publick parts of the city ; fome antique ; others by Michael Angelo, Baccio Bandinelli, John de Bologna, iJonatelli, and other eminent fculptors. The palaces are fome of them very noble: all of them, al- moft, adorned after the true Tufcan manner, with the heavy r.uft.ck charges : this, in the largeft buildings, has a very good efledt j but not fo good in the fmall ones. In all. it feems 'o me to agree much better with the flat parts than with the pillars The more modern churches are built in a good tafte ; the reft ^othick, but fine m their way. It has fo happened to many of the m FLORENCE. •the churches in Italy, (but more, I think, in this city than ■-others) that the front, which has been referv'd to a more than ordinary degree of ornament, has often fail'd of having any at ail : fo that many of them we fee wholly in the rough, expect- ing fuch finery as never yet has happen'd to be beftow'd upon them. That of the dome continued for a long time fo, till at lad at the marriage of the late prince Ferdinand, it came oft with painting inftead of porphyry. All the reft of the church (and 'tis very large) is overlaid quite round with marble, the pannel white, with borders of a darker colour; and the reft: of the ornaments difpofed with a very agreeable fancy. Its firft architect was Arnolfo di Cambio, difciple of Cimabue, who was the firft reftorer of painting in Italy. Though the fine tafte of architecture as well as painting was then in its infancy, that church may truly be called a beautiful ftru&ure. The cupola was made fome time after, in a better tafte of architecture, by Brunellefcho, thegreateft man of his time, and now highly celebrated in Florence. This cupola was the firft in Italy, raifed upon another building, as Signor Galilei told us; and when the architect made his propofal for doing it, it was received with furprize, and looked upon as a thing not to be done by any other art than that of magick. However, he compleated it according to his fcheme ; and it has been as it were the parent of the great numbers that have been made fince. It was particularly ftudied by Mich. Angelo, when he fet about that at S. Peter's at Rome, and while he was con- fidering it, he declared, that juft fuch a one as that he would not make, and a better he could not : come te non voglio, ifteg/io di te non poflb. It is finely painted on the infide by Fe- derico Zuccaro : the fubjedt of the upper part is the Refurrec- tion. A reprefentation of Hell goes round the lower part, with a world of capricious fancies, in the fame way of think- ing with thole of Pifa above-mentioned. There are fome good ftatues in the church ; and the floor is finely pav'd with marble, but its other ornaments within are not extraordinary for that country, nor equal in proportion to the finith'd beauty of the outfide : we obferv'd within, a picture of an Englilh knight, Sir John Hawkwood, mounted on a pacer, "Johannes acntus eaues Britannicus, dux atatis juce cautijjimus, a? F LORE N C E, © rei militaris feritijjimns habitus eft. Under it is written, Pauli Uccelli opus. This character of. acutus is taken from that of Fabius Maximus, in an antique infcription in the gal- lery of the great duke, which will follow by and by. .There is likewife Dante's picture by Andrea Orgagna, walk- ing in the fields, and reading : with this epigraph, in lines far: unequal to thofe they fpeak. of- %ui cesium cecinit, mediumque, imumque tribunal* Liiftravitque ammo cuncta poetafuo ; Doclus adeft Dantes, fua quern Florentiafape Sea/it confdiis ac pietate patrem ; Nil potuit tanlo mors Java nocere poetce, Qitem vivum. virtus, carmen, imago jack.- Behold the poet, who in lofty verfe Heav'n, hell, and purgatory did rehearfe ; The learned Dante ! whofe capacious foul Survey 'd the univerfe, and knew the whole. To his own Florence he a father prov'd, Honour'd for counfel, for religion lov'd. Death could not hurt fo great a bard as he,. Who lives in virtue, verfe, and effigy. This great man, we are told there, had a molt unhappy- itch of pilfering ; not for lucre (for it was generally of mere trifles), but it was what he could not help ; lb that the friends whofe houfes he frequented, would put in his way rags of cloth, bits of glafs, and the like, to fave things of more value (for he could not go away without fomething) ■, and of fuch as: thefe, at his death, a whole room was found filled. Jufi by this church ftands the famous tower of Giotto, built aU of marble, chiefly white ; tho' the tafie be fomewhat Go- thick, according to the time of the architect before they had enter'd fo much into the ftudy of the antique, the ornaments are fo well imagined, the parts fo well difpofed, and the whole- fo lofty, that it is by much the fineft tower I ever favv. It has- flood three hundred years, and. feems as frefli as if it were not ten years old,. 3V5' 396 F L O R E N C E. Juft fronting the church ftands the Baptiftery, built odago- nal. It was formerly, they fay, a temple of Mars. The whole outfide, covering and all, is cafed with marble. It has three pair of brazen gates ; that pair facing the dome is parti- cularly celebrated, and with the higheft juftice : they are adorn'd with hiftories of the New Teftament in the pannels, with bor- ders of foliage, &c. going between them. The figures are of a much higher relievo than thofe of Pifa, and are indeed nioft of them excellently fine. They never fail of telling Mich. An- gelo's compliment upon them, That they were fit only to be the gates of heaven. They were made by Lorenzo Ghiberti. Gallery. The famous gallery [that of the old palace] is fuch a repo- fitory of rarities lying all together, as is not (I believe) to be matched in all Europe. The figure of the gallery is this. The ufual entrance is thro' ^ the lobby on one fide, mark'd with the let- ter [a] ; the walls of it are all let round, '- from bottom to top, with ftatues, buffs, w be abot:t .-three foot. bafio-relievo's, and antique infcriptions. The length of each * The paces wing of the gallery is two hundred and ten of my paces*, with which I t h e whole fet round on all fides with ftatues and bufts; many found by fe- oi them admirably good, and others having their value for eral trials to their rarity. There is a feiies of the Roman emperors from Julius, down to Gallienus, all except about fix ; and the empreffes of many of them fronting them : where thefe are wanting, the place is fupplied with other figures. Among the emperors, are plac'd Marcus Agrippa, fon-in-law to Auguftus ; and Antinous, the favourite of Hadrian. Belides thefe, there are philofophers, heroes, confuls, mufes, deities, and other figures interfperfed, as Leda with the Swan, Cupid and Pfyche, very beautiful ; there are ftatues of Paris and of the three goddeffes, which tho' done by different hands, and at different times [the Juno is by Mich. Angelo, unfinifh'd.the reft antique,] are fo well chofen and difpofed, that they anfwer to one another as tho' they had been originally intended to accompany each other as they do. Paris regards not Juno nor Pallas, one ftanding towards his right hand, and the other juft before him; but turns directly to Venus, who is at a further diftance towards his left ; he reaches out the apple a. a. fe/w adt>r*iX a.ilmiUa. vditnea* Themes. 7i. J^da i '. t'tt/iid % %etke. /. ttakrwm - /Z V- 397- c7Ger6£,u£ 4^aru>j2vvrui£um 7/larmore Su?num Jfitclai Aw/ic rwjtMtj gt&mlrwsn-~U6a< /amino- St-aus . ^4 si ' cetvaims£a>n£es fendez/iJ sua 7/rzrA/o oUiuu Scgms, ii> Si/ike csitde/utJ, ijiauci. a./?ijzz>i6 \' 772*f. S3- a-,:l£r7^g«sSu S&C&. JS/atvi/siu t^'Vfr^t &zs£&'1/a//ery at 5%?43%^>. -?ty?- 3^7- £2/£a*/zi//aj. ^N AI"A0QN H MNHMH AEI0AAH2 " The memory of the good is ever flouriihing." This might probably be one in the early ages of Christianity ; as fome iwta, and lamps we obferved were (aid to be; one whereof was in * Fora fuf, the form of a ihip, with S. Peter at the helm, and S. Paul [ r ther ? ccount Chrifr, acceding to fome] preaching*. Two or three tri-J^MlS" podes : and feveral inftruments ufed in Sacrifices, war, baths. / " iV ''™"< •£«- as ftrigils, &c. A corona muralis in brafs, thus ; ' ""', Se - " u >\:ii. fig. 31* 402 FLORENCE. A corona radiata of eight rays, with the refemblance of a tyger on one fide. MM^> The aquila and the mantis, both military enfigns. The eagle is infcrihed, Legion. XXIIII. Some te/fercs of copper : here are the figures of two of themj 3 # On that marked with the afterifk, there is this infcription, IVBEO ET IS EI SI FECERIT GAVDEBIT SEMPER. Thefe, FLORENCE. Thefe, according to fome, are of the kind which were called fortes prcenejlince, ufed in divination ; a fort of lots, which were put into a box, each having its particular mark, and were drawn out by a boy : but to me they feem rather to be the tefera militares ; which were a fort of tallies made fometimes or copper, as thefe are, fometimes of filver, and fometimes ivory, having a particular infcription, either of a fingle word, or of a fentence; which, at the fetting their night-guards, was' given from one Centurion to another, quite thro' the army, till it came again to the Tribune who at firft delivered it. The like were alfo made ufe of at the beginning of engagements ; at which time the word or fcntence was communicated by 'the general to the chief officers, and by them to the whole army, juft before the onfet. This kind of tally was alfo delivered to every ioldier, to diftinguifh him from the enemy. Amon tne butler; that he fuf- pedted there was fome mifchief in hand, becaufe all the fer- vants were fent out of the houfe ; that he therefore ftay'd at the door, and thro' a chink of it faw them fubferibing fome letters. The fculptor feems to have taken his hint from thefe particulars, and reprefents the flave as whetting his knife (the proper bufinefs ot a butler, very likely, in thofe days, as well as now), and liftening very attentively to what they were about. The; epigram upon it was, Delirant Bruti reducemque tyrannida pofcunt : Vindice mancipio libera Romajletit. 4ti In Englifh, a little more largely, thus; See how Vindicius Mens to reveal The plot the Bruti labour'd to conceal : They, traitors to their country! while this flave Refcues the liberty their father gave. The Wreftlers, of which there are feveral copies in Eng- land, fliew a great deal of fpirit ; the expreffion of the muf- cles (wherein the utmoft force feems exerted), and the con- traff. of the limbs, are very fine : and the countenances (if one can quarrel with fuch a fault) too beautiful for people at that fport. This diftich was made upon them. Did 413 F L O R E N C Did living wreftlers with fuch vigour ftrive, Exhausted foon, they'd feem far lefs alive. Thus turned into Latin by another gentleman ; Talibus exhaujii pitgnis in faxa rigermt Vhn; dum vivunt marmorei pugiles. Thefe four capital ftatues were call in ccpper, exceeding well, by Signer Soldani, for the duke of Marlborough, and arc now at Blenheim. When my Lord Parker was at Florence, and greatly delighted with thefe ftatues, Signor Pietro Cipriani, an excellent artift, and formerly a fcholar of Soldani, and his afliftant in calling thofc ftatues for the duke of Marlbo- rough, undertook to make for him copies in copper of the Venus and Faunus ; which he engaged fhould at leaft equal Soldani's, and be the moft exact that ever were made. He had moulds of the feveral parts of them, and only defired that leave might be obtained from the great duke for him to have re- courfe to the originals, for the more exact putting the parts together (for want of which, calls often differ more from the originals, than one would eafily imagine; as has happened par- ticularly in moft of the calls of this Venus). My lord agreed with Cipriani, obtained the great duke's leave, as he defired ; and Cipriani has done them, and fent them to England : nor has he failed in his engagement. My lord likewife had calls made in copper of the bulls of Plautilla and Geta, which are in the great gallery there, and they are performed admirably well ; and, of the Plautilla, my lord has not only the copper call, but the very mould, which was made on purpofe for him, with the leave of his royal highnefs ; who infilled that the mould fhould not be left at Florence, for the call to become common there, but mould either be broken to pieces, or carried away by my lord : his lordfhip was not long in determining upon the latter, and accordingly brought it into England. At the fame time that Soldani was making the calls for the duke of Marlborough, Signor Baratti, a fculptor in good efteem there, made two ftatues for his grace. An Englifh man of FLORENCE. of quality, and of a very good tafte, was intrufted by his Grace, to befpeak the twoftatues, and to appoint what they fhould be, and in what manner and attitude : he order'd one of them to be a Mars, with the duke of Marlborough's face ; and a pidture of the duke was got from England to do it by ; the other was a Glory with a garland in her hand, &c. On the former was made this diltich, by an Englifh gentleman : Non alio vultufremuit Mars acer in armis ; Non alio, Cypriam perculit ilk Deam. Tranflated thus by another Engliih gentleman ; With fuch an air and mien Mars took the field j To fuch an air and mien did Venus yield. 41? On the other was this epigram : Gloria, Marlburio jam ferta recentia nelfas, Non quce falfus honor, vel mendax fatna, tyrannis Obt tiler at dudum, Jed qualia condecordjfent She Kpaminondcefrontem, feu Timoleontis.- Tranflated thus; For Marlborough let Glory wreaths prepare, Not fuch as, wrought by Flatt'ry, tyrants wear; But fuch as, Greece being judge, were fit to crown Epaminondas, or Timoleon. The fleeping Cupid [in the Tribuna] the young Hercules, the heads of Nero, and M. Aurelius when children, and that of Tiberius in a Turccife (tone, are all very curious ; and fo are a vaft many more fmaller pieces of antiquity, which are moil agreeably dilpos'd on (helves round this rich cabinet. Befides all this, there is a hidden treafure, which fignor Bianchi was fo obliging as to lay open to us, of the greater! variety of curious vefiels of rock-cryfta), wrought in feveral (hapes, of bafons, boats, cafkets, beakers, &c. adorn'd, fome with very fine fi» gures, others with foliage, &c. many fine veflels of lapis la- Vox. II.. G. ■ zuli, 4i4 FLORENCE. zuli, onyx, agate, and many other curious ftones. Some of thoie in rock-cryital, wrought in fuch manner as to appear like a very fine bafTo-relievo without, and fcarce inferior to the beft antique, are the work of Valerius de Bellis, more commonly called the Vicentinc, from Vicenza, the place of his birth : he flourifhed in the time of Clement VII. and upon one of thefe veffels he has put his name, with the time when he wrought it. Valer. de Bellis, temp. Clem. VH. 1532. We likewife faw there a ring, with a fine ftone, in which appears the figure of a Cupid, which they affirm to be natural j the Cupid is white, the reft of the ftone reddifh. In a moft rich cabinet within the fame room are kept the fine collection of medals, intaglio's, and cameo's. I (hall fay nothing here of the medals, to avoid tedioufnefs, and the rather, becaufe curiofities of that nature are the remains of great numbers, ftamped at the fame time, and therefore o- thers of the fame impreffions may be feen elfewhere ; and con- fequently an account of them is no novelty. The chief that I obferv'd among the numerous intaglio's, were Caius and Lucius Csefar, [above mention'd] with Romulus and Remus. Domitilla, fuppos'd to have been fet in the ring of Vefpafian : this head, fignor Bianchi told us, is not extant in medals. Pefcennius Niger ; groiTer than the medal. Pyrrhus : like the ftatue at the Palazzo Maffimis at Rome. Mithridates : like the baflb-relievo Medaglione in the Capi- tol ; only this has no helmet : which that (as I remember) has. . It is alfo very like the gold and filver medals of him. A Pallas, in an onyx, two inches and a half long ; a whole figure. A fine Apollo, the head only : on the other fide of the fame ftone is a whole figure of Mars. A Cameo, very fine. A Hercules: the fame as the Farnefe. A moft beautiful Bacchans : the drapery flung about admi- rably. An antique fcene; with mafques. The She- Wolf with the Infants, &c. The Circus Maximus ; and race of the Quadriga. Several FLORENCE. Several Talifmans ; and the other magical ftones call'd A- braxas ; with various infcriptions ; forne in Greek letters, but the words Chaldee; at leaft fo fignor Bianchi told us : I pretend not to underftand that language; but of Greek fignification I am lure they were not. The magical (tones call'd Abraxas are engrav'd flones, us'd by the Egyptians and Perfians to reprefent the chief deity who made the heavens, which they reckon three hundred fixty five in number, anfwerable to the days in the year ; and in the feve- ral Greek numeral letters of that name added together, that number is found, as will be feen by what immediately follows, 415 A B P A A 2 - 1 - 2 -100 - 1 - 60 - 1 -200 3 6 5 The fame was alfo fignified by Mithras, writing it with an [E] before the [I], meiopas, as here under. M 40 E I 5 P A S 100 20O 365 Talifmans are often, if not for the moil part, in metal : both thefe were fuppofed to have great efficacy in charming away difeafes, putting to flight evil fpirits, prolonging. life, and do- G 2 ing 4*6 * A defign reprefenting a plague ; whether it was ever exe- cuted in paint- ing or no, I know not: the ben: impreffi- onsofthe print are fold at five or fix guineas. FLORENCE. ing abundance of other feats. The Gnofticks, particularly thofe of thefthoolof Balilides, being much addicted to magick, did believe there was a great virtue in this fort of things. Among the Cameos's, I obferv'd one with afatyr and goat, ,butting, as in the Sarcophagusat Bolfena above mentioned. Ahiflory; with a building, Corinthian pillars, and Doric frieze. A young Hercules, and the lion. A fine Iole : the fame is amongft the intaglio's. Milo and the Bull. A Bacchans : the head and breaft are beautiful. Tiberius and Livia, in profile, very fine. Vefpafian, in alto-relievo, excellent; the face almoft full ; being turned from you but very little. Thefe are antique. Amongft the modern ones, there is a moft excellent mafque of a faun. The Centaurs and Lapiths. The Slaughter of the Innocents ; on an Heliotrope. In fignor Bianchi's room, [another apartment within the gallery] among other curious things, is a very fine fleeping Hermaphrodite, much the fame with that in the Villa Borg- hefe : which of them is the finer, is a difpute hard to be de- cided. In the room which they call the Arfenal, is a numerous col- lection of drawings, and feveral fine ones ; but I think it comes not up. in excellence to the collection of other curiofities, with which this gallery, and the rooms belonging to it, are fo glo- rioufly furnifhed. There are fome few of Raphael. The principal groupe is that which is commonly called Ra- phael's Peft*. A defign in fmall for the cartoon at Hampton-Court, of S. Paul preaching. That of Chrift delivering the keys. Part of that for the wonderful draught of fifties. In the pafiage from the gallery to the old palace, and in feve- ral other places about this gallery, are abundance of other anti- quities, and curiofities of various forts, which I avoid troubling the reader with. I (hall take leave of this famous gallery with inferting four in- fcriptions I took in the lobby at the entrance : Two FLORENCE. Two of them are jocofe, on two •va/a cineraria, cr urns. PHILAETIVS PRIVIGNVS ET DVSERIS NOVEROA IN VITA ViX CREDISILE VNANIMES MORTVI HAC EADEM VRNA CONCORDES REQVIESCVNT. " Philsetius the fon-in-law, and Duferis the ftep mother, ct who while living (you'll fcarce believe it !) were unanimous, " now they are dead, reft lovingly together in this urn." VI The other is, • D . M. PHILONICI PRIVIGNI ET DYSCHERIAE NOVERCAE CINERES HEIC CONDITI PRISTINI ODII MEMORES VNA RENVVNT COMMISCERI. n The aflies of Philonicus the fon-in-law, and of Dyfche- " riathe ftep-mother, retaining ftill their old hatred, refufe to " be mixed together." The antiquity of thefe two is by fome called in queftion, but the two following ones are of undoubted, as well as of very great antiquity. The fir ft is in honour of Appius Cascus, who (as the inscription fets forth) took feveral towns of the Sam- nites, routed the Sabine and Tufcan forces, prevented the ma- king a peace with king Pyrrhus, pav'd the Appian-way *, fup- * Stl!! ml,c - plied the city with water, and built a temple to Bellona. APPIVS C . F CLAVDIVS CAECVS ■ CENSOR . COS . BIS . DICT . 1NTERREX . iil PR . IT . AED . CVR . IT . Q_. TR . MIL . Hi . COM -PLVRA . OPPIDA . DE . SAMNITIBVS . CEPIT SABINORVM . ET . TVSCORVM . EXERCI TVM . FVDIT . PACEM . FIERI . CVM . TYRRHO REGE . PROHIBVIT . IN CENSVRA . VIAM APPIAM . STRAVIT . ET . AQVAM . IN VRBEM . ADDVXIT . AEDEM . BELLONA FECIT . The Part of the P in PYRRHO is worn out ; and the E at the end of BELLONAE is broken off. 4i8 FLORENCE. The other is in honour of the famous dictator Fabius Maxi- * CunBando mus, who baffled Hannibal with obferving * his motions and rejiituit rem. f or bearing to come to action, fubdued and triumph'd over the tnmus. t • • r /->n Ligunans [now GenoeleJ- took Tarentum, and was The N in CENSOR is broke off, as is part of the R in AUGUR, * One fide of iheOin MA- GISTRO is worn out. •\ Pro Cujut.. T Not REI. MIL. &c. Part of the M in SENA- TVMis gone. j| I went up and down, and found no body there, b.nt all open-, efteemed the moft cautious commander of his time, and the mofl expert in military affairs, &c. Q_. F . MAXIMUS DICTATOR . BIS . COS . V . CE SOR . INTERREX . II . AED . CVR Q, II . TR . MIL . II . PONTIFEX . AVGVI PRIMO . CONSVLATV . LIGVRES . SVBE GIT . EX . lis . TRIVMPHAVIT . TERTIO . ET QVARTO . HANNIBALEM . COMPLVRI BVS . VICTORlS . FEROCEM . SVBSEQVEN DO . COERCVIT . DICTATOR MAGISTRC* EQVITVM . MINVCIO . QVOIVSf . POPV LVS IMPERIVM CVM DICTATORIS IMPERIO . AEQVAVERAT . ET . EXERCITVI PROFLIGATO . SVBVENIT . ET . EO . NOMI NE . AB . EXERCITV . MINVCIANO . PA TER . APPELLATVS . EST . CONSVL . QVlN TVM . TARENTVM . CEPIT . TRIVMPHA- VIT . DVX . AFTATIS . SVAE . CAVTISSI MVS . ET . REJ . MILITARIS . PERITISSIMVS HABITVS . EST . PRINCEPS . IN . SENATVM' DVOBVS . LVSTRIS . LECTVS . EST. O'ppofite to this infeription is a large baflb-relievo, intended' (as they fay) toreprefent three of the elements, viz. air, earth,, and water. I took fuch a fketch of it as the opportunity 1 had would admit, which is given at p. 397. In the great hall of the old palace, which is a noble, but neglected room ||, and in fome (mall galleries adjacent, are fe- veral very gojd ftatues, and frefco- pain tings, too many toenu-r- merate. ' Some of the ftatues are by John de Bologna. The fine [modern] ftatues in the piazza before the old palace^ have, been defcrilrd by others ,• for which reafon Lomit them T,he. FLORENCE. The Rape of the Sabine woman, by John de Bologna, larger than the life, is (I think) inferior to few of the antique: the foldier who carries her off has another figure under him, between his legs : they are all three cut out of one block of white marble. The other noble ftatues difpers'd in the pub'ick parts of the city, fome modern, fome antique, have likewife been defcrib'd by others : they do exceedingly beautify and enliven the city. From the great gallery (lately mention'd) to the Palazzo Pitti, now the refidence of the great duke, is a corridore, or gallery of communication, half a mile long, and goes acrofs the river. This fine palace was built by a nobleman of Florence, whofe Pala«re* name it bears ; but he having over-built himfelf, it was purchas'd Pm ' - by one of the great dukes, and has fince continued to be their refidence. It is built about three fides of a court ; the fourth is open to the garden call'd Boboli. A portico of the Doric- order goes all along the three fides below, two others go over them, one of the Ionic, the other of the Corinthian order. Along one of thefe there goes an iron balcony, in which they fhew'd us a part which had not been well joined ; and this they told us feparates confiderably in cold weather, and reunites [or comes clofe again] in hot. The fwelling of metals in hot wea- ther, and Ihrinking in cold, hasbeenobfervedby the curious, to be in a fmall proportion ; poffibly it may be the great length of this balcony that may make the alteration more vifible here. So that what is almoft infenfible in a foot of metal, may be con- fiderable in the length of a court. In the court is a pretty Grotta, with Cupids as fwimming, and a ftatue of Mofes in porphyry. In the fame court are the fta- tues of Hercules and Anta?us, the fame attitude with thofe figures in the reverfe of a medal of Antoninus Pius. This is one among nine which the great duke has of the twelve labours of Hercules ; the reverfes of fo many medals of Antoninus Pius. Thofe of the Stymphalides, the Amazons, and Geryon, are wanting. Alexander, as taken out of the river Cydnus ; excellently good. 4;9 A 420 FLORENCE. A Hercules ; the fame with the Farnefe. Under this ftatue of Hercules is a baflb-relievo of a mule, which feems to have undergone ibme fort of Herculean labour, and whofe memory- is thus perpetuated, for the fervices he had done at the building of this palace : thefe, and likewife what was more perfonal to his matter, feem intended to be recorded in this infcription. LeSticam, lapides, & marmora, llgna, cohtmnas, Vexit, conduxit, traxit, & ifla tulit. Sedan, ftones, marble, columns, timber too, He bore, he led, he carry'd, and he drew. An extraordinary diftich this, to be cut, in fo fumptuous a manner, in the portico of fuch a noble palace ! There lies neglected on one fide this court a loadftone, about five foot long, four broad, and three deep: they told us they were forc'd to burn it, to diminiih its attraction, which was fo violent, that it drew the iron bars out of the windows, bal- conies, &c. True Italian ! The great duke has a loadffone of three tenths of a grain, which draws above a hundred twenty one grains, which is four hundred times more than its own weight : it was fet by Quare the famous watchmaker of London, and fent by him to his royal highnefs in the year 1703. The ftone, as I was told by fignor Beneditto Brefciani, the great duke's library-keeper, is perforated, and has an iron wire palling thro' it, which augments its attraction. It is allow'd (I thing) among the Virtuofi, that the fmaller a loadftone is, its proportional attraction is the greater ; the larger being only as it were an affemblage of fmall ones, whofe poles often croffing one another, do make the attraction lefs in pro- portion to the bulk of the whole mafs. The figure of this fmall loadftone is given in the plate oppo- fite to page 313, as fignor Galilei, who drew it from the ori- ginal, gave it to me, and which, as he told me, the great duke us'd always to keep in his own cuftody. The weight is alfo added, in the draught. 3 The FLORENCE. The apartments in this palace are very handfome, and finely finilh'd : the cielings ofibme of them are admirably painted by Pietro da Cortona, and pleas'd me the molf. of any of his works that I have feen. It was incumbenton Pietro to (hew his utmofr. fkill at Florence ; where at that time were fome ready enough to have taken notice of any defect in his performance; as may be fuppos'd, if a ftory they tell there be true. When the great duke fent to Rome for Pietro to do this work, one of the Flo- rentine painters (I think it was Giovanni di S. Giovanni) being piqued at it, fet to work to (hew him at his entrance into the town how little need there was to fend for a foreign painter to Florence, and painted a piece of frefco, which ftill remains, and is indeed very fine, upon the outfide of a houfe that jult fronts you as you come in at the Roman gate : and it was not with- out its effect. Pietro did (as was expected) immediately call: his eye upon it as he enter'd the gate ; and feeing a performance, which fhew'd itfelf to be new, afk'd who did it : they told him, it was an ordinary painter they had among them, naming him. Ay, fays he, if fiich are your ordinary painters, there's no bufinefs for me here ; and (as the flory goes) turn'd back again immediately: nor was it without repeated and preffing inftances that he was indue' d to return to Florence. At laft he was prevail'd upon, and painted the cielings I have mentioned : and Giovanni di S. Giovanni was employ'd in the fummer-apart- ments below, in which he fucceeded admirably well. Sand di Tito, I think, did fome part. Thefe fummer-apsrtments are vaulted with ftone, high and fpacicus, cielings and walls all painted ; and are much the fineft of the kind I have any where feen. In one of thefe apartments is kept the picture of my lord Somers, painted by fir Godfrey Kneller. Sir Godfrey told me once, that upon the arrival of this picture at Florence, the great duke faid, " The queen of England promis'd to fend me " the picture of the prefident of her council, but (he lias fent " me the prefident of her council hhnjilf." The Florentine mailers don't feem much to relifh it, but I think there's none there now can make fo good a one. The paintings in this palace are very numerous, and many of them exquifitely fine. I forbear entering into the particulars, this having been done by others; and particularly of late by Mr. Richardlbn. Vol. II. ' H The 42 i Chapel of S Lorenzo. FLORENCE. The library of this palace is a fpacious handfome apartment, and furnifhed with many valuable books and manuscripts : but the principal one for manufcripts is that of S.Lorenzo, a beau- tiful Structure, defign'd by Mich. Angelo. The fine chapel of S. Lorenzo has been defcrib'd by feveral ; fo that I fhall fay the lefs of it : it is an octagon : the height of the chapel is about twice the diameter; the diameter is forty- eight palms, and the height ninety-eight. There is another thing in it uncommon ; tho' it is a regular octagon in the upper part; in the lower, four of the fides are brought fo much for- ward, as almoft to form a fquare ; a fmall part only of the an- gles being cut off. That I may be the better underftood, I have added a little fcheme, wherein the continued lines repre- fent the fides of the octagon above, and the prick'd lines the four fides brought forwarder below. * I think it was Ferdi- nand II. fa- ther to Cof- mo 1 1 . the late great duke. One of the great princes * was the principal architect of it. Some of ihe marbles and other rich ftones in the incruftations I thought did not fet off one another (as to their colours) to the beft advantage : and a much more knowing perfon in thofe mat- ters (a Florentine) declar'd himfelf of the fame opinion; but it will doubtlefs, when fimfh'd, be the moft fumptuous fabrick of its bignefs in the world. They fhew'd us the very rich taber- nacle FLORENCE. nacle which is to be for the altar, in one of the apartments be- longing to the great gallery. This chapel (lands juft beyond the eaft end of the church, which bears the fame name j and when finifhed, there is to be a communication between them opened at the place where the great altar of that church at prefent ftands. In another chapel belonging to this church are placed in cof- fins lying on the floor, the bodies of the great dukes, and others of the family, which are to be removed hence, and depo- fited in the new rich chapel, as foon as it is finiih'd. On the coffin of the late cardinal de' Medici (who married the prin- cefs Eleonora of Guafialla, a fine young lady;, I obferved this infcription. FRANC. MARIA PRINCEPS AB ETRVRIA PRIMO S. R. E. CARDINALIS MOX VXORE DVCTA OBIIT. Ill FEB. MDCCX. 42; ct Franc. Maria, a prince of Tufcany, firft a cardinal of the " Holy Roman church; then married, and {trait died, in " Feb. mdccx." His eminence would willingly have excus'd himfelf at the age he was of from marrying at all; but his elder nephew, prince Ferdinand, being dead without iflue, and his other nephew Don Gaftone [now great duke] not being likely to have any, he was over-perfuaded to it. Others of the Medici family are depoflted here, whofe monu- ments are adorned with admirable fculpture of Mich. Angelo, particularly with four figures which reprefent the Day, the Night, the Day-break, and the Twilight. One of thefe is much in the attitude of the Leda of his which is in print. The late great duke [Cofmo III.] ordered the nudities of thefe to be cover'd, which was doing while we were there This chapel was built by the direction of Mich. Angelo, and is therefore called by fome Capella di Mich. Angelo, by others, Capella de' Prencipi, becaufe lb many princes have been buried there. In the piazza before this church ftands a bafe or pedeftal of white marble, with an admirable baffo- relievo by Baccio Ban- H 2 dinelli. 424 FLORENCE. dinelli, reprefenting fome foldiers bringing feveral prifoners -be- fore Giovanni de' Medici, father of Cofmo I. One of the fol- diers is carrying a woman in his arms, whofe ftruggling to get from him is finely exprefs'd. The ftatue, which (hou'd have been fet on this pedeltal, remains unfinifh'd in the great hall of the old palace. Pal. Riccardi. The palace of the Marchefe Riccardi, who is a very affable courteous gentleman, is very magnificent in ftruclure, and as rich in furniture. The magazines of plate they fhew'd us in five or fix preffes reaching from bottom to top of a high room, fur- paffed all I ever faw belonging to a private perfon. There is a gallery, finely painted in frefco by Luca Giordano. In the court are a great many inscriptions : one is, SOLI INBICTO MITRE M. VLP. MAXIMVS PRAEPOSITVS TA-. BELLARIORVM ARAM CVM SViS ORNAMENTIS ET BELA DO-. MINI INSICNIA HABENTES N. IIII VT VOVERAT D. D. Another, where [B] is likewife us'd for [V.] D. M. L. BOLVMNIVS SEBERVS SE BIBO COMPARABIT QUI BIXITANNISXLVIH. &c. Another, which doubtlefs belonged to fome bafib-relievo of Priapus, &c. wherein a girl might poffibly be reprefented as. pulling the boughs of a tree to get fome fruit ; and Priapus as coming along towards her, with fruits in the lappet of his ihirt; as he is feen in a bafib-relievo in the Palazzo Mattei. Vide p.. 301. QUIDNAM QVID RAPIS O PVELLA FVRAX NE RAMOS TRAHERES TIBI HAEC FEREBAM SED POSTHAC CAVEAS FERAS QVID ORTO OBDVXI LICET ARMA SVM PRIAPVS. What, pilf'ring girl, what is't you're pulling there ? To fave the boughs, I've brought you fomewhat here. Don't FLORENCE. Don't play thefe tricks again, and think t' efcape us, My weapon's hid : — but know I am Priapus. 425 There is another infcription near it, which I had not time to transcribe ; it is in a fquare character ; like that of an old Virgil there is in the library of S. Lorenzo. There is a modern infcription in marble, made by the famous Salvini, doctor of laws, declaring what emperors, kings, popes, and other princes have been entertained in that place. We had feveral times the pleafure of this learned doctor's comDany, which is as entertaining as it is improving. If he has that qua- lity of a fcholar to be regardlefs of dreis, he is perfectly free from others which are frequent, that is, morofenefs, pride, and refervednefs : he is facetious, affable, and communicative. Be- tides his great knowledge of the civil law, and other ufeful parts of learning, he is particularly eminent for his profound fkill in the claffical Greek ; and among the modern languages, has made himfelf fo much a mafter of Englifb, as to read any thing extempore out of that into Italian, &c. It was he that transla- ted Mr. Addifon's Cato into Italian ; which he did fo well, that Mr. Addifon himfelf declared it was the beft tranflation he ever faw. He like wife fhew'd us fome parts of Milton's Para- dife Loft, which be had occafionally turn'd into Italian ; and they read admirably well in that harmonious language. There are two fine palaces of the noble family of the Strozzi, p aL Strozzi. one of whom contended againft the Medici -for the liberty of his country ; wherein tho' he mifcarried, Magnis tamen excidit aufis, Yet in a glorious enterprize he dy'd. Ovid. Addison. It was Philip Strozzi, of an antient and rich family in Flo- rence, who, with others, endeavouring after the death of Clement VII. to deliver tbernfelves from the exorbitant power of Alexan- der de Medicis, by expelling him from Florence ; and failing in that attempt, procured him to be affaffinated : but the cutting off Alexander prov'd more fatal to the liberty of the Florentines, than the difappointment and the difcovery of the whole con- ipiracy would have been. The death of Alexander made room for 426 FLORENCE. for Cofmo, a perfon much better qualified than he was, to fettle a new fovereignty, which he did, and became the firft Great Duke of Florence. He beat the malecontents ; Strozzi was made a prifoner, and believing that his enemy would poifon him, or put him to an ignominious death, refolved to kill him- felf. Before he executed that violent refolution, he made his will j wherein he orders and intreats his children to dig up his bones out of the place where they fhall lie in Florence, and to get. them tranfported to Venice; that, fince he cannot be fo happy as to be in a free city when he died, he may enjoy that bleffing after his death, and his afhes may reft in peace, out of the con- queror's dominions. He then engrav'd upon the mantle-piece of his chimney, with the point of the fame dagger wherewith he afterwards kill'd himfelf, this verfe of Virgil : Exoriare allquis noftris ex ojjibus ultor. May fome avenger from my afhes rife ! All which was faithfully executed by his children, who remo- ved his bones according to his will ; and then, to profecute their revenge, went into France, and engaged in the fervice of the French king, againft the emperor Charles the Vth, who had founded the dominion of the Medici at Florence. Balzac, who gives this part of the account, \Entretien 34. C. 6.] further adds, that the fame Philip Strozzi, in the begin- ning of his will, expreffes a great confidence in God's mercy, hoping he will forgive him for killing himfelf, fince he did it like a man of honour, to maintain his liberty, \en homme d'hon- neur, are Balzac's words ;] being of opinion, that when a freeman has loft that, that he may lawfully die. It was at the battle of Marone, near Florence, that Philip StrozEi was made prifoner. Wefawin thehoufe of the cava- lier Strozzi in Florence, the reprefentation of that engagement, and likewife of feveral others, between the Medici and Strozzi, painted on the friezes of the apartments. One of the palaces of the Strozzi has this infeription on the frieze. MDC VII FLORENCE. 427 MDCVII FERD. MED. M. ETRVRIAE DVCIS III AVSPICIIS ROBERTVS STROZZA CAMILLI F. F. A compliment one would hardly have expected, confidering the tranfaction which I have juft been fpeaking of. At the palace of the marquis Ridolfi we faw in the garden a Pal. Ridolfi. coloffal ftatue of Hercules, drinking out of an liter : his club refting on his thigh. The height of the ftatue the marquis told us was eighteen bracci, about fix and thirty feet. I meatur'd the foot, and found it to be five foot Englifh. There is a grotta, imitating ruins on the outfide; the infide is finely adorn'd, and one apartment painted by Colonna. In the palace we faw a battle of the Borgognone, of nine foot by fix, which the marquis was plcas'd to value at ten thoufand crowns. He told us, that whoever had not feen thefe, had not feen Italy. At the Palazzo Gierini we faw a fine collection of pictures, which I won't trouble the reader with particularizing. At the palace of the fenator Buonarota, we faw two books Pal. Buona* filled with fketches of architecture, defigned by Mich. Angelo, rota - who was his anceftor ; and the ritratto of Mich. Angelo him- felf, by Bronzino Vecchio. Here we were (hewn fome of the fined: of thofe fort of prints which imitate drawings, that ever I faw ; they were made after deilgns of Raphael, Titian, Parmegiano, Mecharino, and others ; fome by Mecharino himfelf, excellent ; others by Ra- phael daRegio, Barthol. Coriolanoda Bologna, and Parmegiano. At the Cafa Gaddaare many pieces of antiquity,, infcriptions, ftatues, and bufts, but not difpofed in proper order, the houfe not being inhabited. Among the reft is an old copper Laocoon, and feveral pieces of old Tufcan copper ftatues. In one of the rooms we faw feveral pieces of marble ; upon which, when joined together, there had been plans drawn of the floor of fome palace or other building : upon feveral of them, numbers were cut, which probably expreffed in feet the. dimenfions of the refpective rooms in the plan. Here we faw Octavius Strada's feries of the emperors, done in the manner of thofe mentioned in the Vatican Library ; but thefe are in purple ink. At 428 deaden FLORENCE. At the palace of the cavalier Gaburri is a fine collection of drawings, fome antique flames, and fome good pidures: he has the original drawings of the famous Madonna del Sacco, by Andrea del Sarta : and of part of the cupola of the dome, by Fed. Zuccaro ; alfo a drawing of the Marcus Aurelius on horle- back, from the ftatue in the Capitol, by Giulio Romano The iummer-apartments below are painted in frefco, architecture, and landfkape, very pleafant. The gentlemen of Florence are very fociable in a fober way. They have a nightly aflembly in a houfe they have taken for that purpofe, where the feveral apartments are afcertain'd for play or converfation. There are perfons attending to furnilh iced li- quors, coffee, &c. From hence they go, fome to the ladies affemblies, and card tables ; fome to the academies of the Virtuofi, of which there are two : one intitled Delia Crufca, and the other known by the general title of l'Academia Fiorentina. We were prefent one night at the latter: theexercife began with a recital of epigrams, and other little poems, fome in Italian, fome in Latin, and they were as eager who (hould repeat firft, as the boys are at the Weftminfter election with their extempore verfes. Then fucceeds a performance of another kind. A queftion is put. One whom they call the fibyl makes anfwer to it in one word, and that a difpropofito (as they call it); fomewhat that feems quite foreign to the purpofe : then, the expofitors of the fibyl are to reconcile this difpropofito-&n- fvver, to the queftion given; as for example, a queftion was put, Whether 'tis more wholefome to fleep much or little ? The fibyl anfwer'd, Sugar. The expofitor added, As fugar is differently proportion'd to fuit with different taftes, fo is fleep, to fuit with different conftitutions : fome requiring more, fome ■lefs. Q^Why Myopes [the fhort- lighted] hold the object near, Prejbyta [the old] hold it at a diftance ? Sibyl ; Hair. The expofitor compar'd a lock of hair to the affemblage of capilla- ments or fibres in the optick nerve; whofe expanfion within the bottom of the eye makes the tunica retina : then he went on to explain how the image of an object is formed on the re- tina, in the convex eye, and the flat eye, in the ufual way. I will inftance only in one more. Q^_Why women's tears lie fo -Expofitor. There are tears of near the eyes ? Sibyl; A bean. FLORENCE. 429 of forroWj and tears of joy. In a bean is found the refemblance of that part where a woman finds moft joy, &c. I advance no further in their arguments, than to fliew how they endea- vour to bring matters together, and to reconcile the Difpropo- fito-anfwer, to the queition. The Academia della Crufca have for their emblem or device, a Mill : they take the title of Crufca, or Bran, as profeffing themfelves to feparate and clear the fine flower from it, i. e. the ufeful and valuable from that which is notfo ; as there are fome other academies in Italy which take their title from fome defect or imperfeclion, which it is their endeavour to deliver themfelves from, and ftudy its oppofite ; as Otiofi, Ofcuri, Oftinati, &c. The people of Florence are very highly tax'd ; there is an impofition laid upon everything they either wear or eat : and to keep the people in awe, and reftrain them from entering into any feditious difcourfes, there were, when we were there, fpies in all companies; by which his royal highnefs was acquainted with every thing that palled; and the cannon in the caftle, which were planted towards the city, were always ready charg'd in cafe of any popular infurrection. His royal highnefs [Cofmo III.] was about eighty years old when we were there : his ftate of health was then fuch as would not allow his going abroad ; but whilit he could do that, he vifited five or fix churches everyday. I wastoldhehadamachine in his own apartment, whereon were fix'd little images in filver, of every faint in the kalendar. The machine was made to turn fo as (fill to prefent in front the faint of the day ; before which he continually perform'd his offices. His hours of eating and going to bed were very early, as was likewife his hour of rifing. He never came near any fire ; and at his coming out of his bed- chamber, had an adjacent room warm'd only by the breath of fuch attendants as were to be always ready there againfr. his rifing. His zeal v/as great for gaining profelytes to the Romifh church ; and he allow'd confiderable ftipends to fome of our nati- on, that had been brought over by that expedient. The Poggio Imperiale, a little mile out of town, has in it Poggio Ira- many excellent original pictures. There are alfo. copies of fir P enale - Peter Lely's Englifh beauties at Windfor, which his highnefs prccur'd to be copied when he was in England. Vol. II. I At 43° Pratolino, FLORENCE. PRATOLINO. At Pratolino, another villa of the great duke's, about fix miles from Florence, on the road to Bologna, are moft plea- fant grotta's : the vaft variety of water-works in them, and of the figures moved by the water, with their feveral geftures, would be too tedious to enumerate ; befides, that fome of them have, I think, been taken notice of by others. But I mud not omit a vaft ftatue there is fronting the palace at fome diftance, which is intended to fignify the Appennine- mountain ; and a very mountain the ftatue itfelf is. The fi- gure fits in an inclining pofture, as looking into a bafon or pond juft below it : from it's vaft long beard, it's arms and other parts hang what look like icicles, the only reprefentation ftone could give of water falling from it : it put me in mind of the Jupiter Pluvius on the Antonine pillar at Rome; — perhaps the fculptor might take his hint from that. This reprefenta- tion of water falling from him feems to fignify the fprings and cafcades, frequent in the trad: of mountains this figure is in- tended to reprefent. It is built of feveral great ftones, which near the eye look very coarfe, but at a diftance have a noble effedl. The iris of each eye looks like a great glafs bottle. I meafured one of the feet, and found it to be nine Englifh foot long, and all the other parts of the figure feem to be in a juft proportion to the feet. Within it's body is a pretty grotta, adorn'd with various ftones, mother of pearl, &c. and fome of their ufual fcherzi d'acqua. It is the work of John de Bo- logna. This performance might have ferv'd him as a model to * Dinocrates. cut the Appennine itfelf by, into a ftatue; as a fculptor * in Alexander's time propofed to have done Mount Athos. The figure of the ftatue is here prefented. About a mile or two further, the fame way, lies the convent La Trap. of the La Trap monks, of the Ciftercian order; the ftricteft of all others in the Rornifh church : they eat neither flefh nor fid), but live upon roots and herbs ; and, at the beginning of their inftitution, drank nothing but water; but they died fo faft with that extremity of abftinence, that now they drink wine-, to correcT: the coldnefs of their diet. They entertained us very handfomely in their way : before dinner, the prior and two of the monks brought water for us to wafli ; one held the bafon, another poured water out of the ewer, and the third held the FLORENCE. LA TRAP. the towel. We had herbs and roots in great variety ; among the reft was beet-root, drefs'd with oil, which was the principal difh, and tafted very well. They had alfo fome plates of eggs dreis'd for us; but thefe are not allow'd to themfelves, except when they travel ; and then they may eat fifh likewife. They rife at midnight to go to church, and continue there at their offices two hours and a quarter ordinarily ; upon the principal feftivals, four hours complete. They have all things in common, — Non pennetiendoji a chi che Jia, ne danaro, ne depojito, ofjervandoji perfetta communita di beni, as the book of their conftitutions expreffes it. " Not allowing to any either money, or pro- *' perty in any goods, but obferving a perfect community in " every thing." Nor are they allow'd to have any will of their own, even that is to be perfectly refign'd to the command of their fuperior; and this is required to be with the utmoft ala- crity and readinefs. Spogliatifi affatto del/a propria volonta. " Diverting themfelves intirely of any will of their own." — And afterwards, Nonfuo arbitrio viventes, vel defideriisfuis, &c. fed ambulant es alienojudicio & imperio, &c. non tarde, non tepide, &c. " Not living after their own way, or their own inclination, &c. " but conforming themfelves to the judgment and command " of others, &c. and that not with reluctancy or luke warm- " nefs." If any of them has committed any fault, tho' it be only breaking or lofing any utenfil belonging to the convent, or has been guilty of any excefs whatever, he is to declare it fpontaneoufly forthwith. If it be difetto efteriore, [an out- ward failing] it is proclaim'd in the chapter.' ■ Le colpe inte- rior e vengono rifervate al Jacro tribunale della penitenza. The " inward offences are referved to be cenfur'd by the facred " tribunal of penance." If a fault be difcover'd by any other than the offender himfelf, hispunifhmentis to be greater: they are to work at gardening, or other rural labour three hours in the day. Tho' their life be a continual abflinence, they havelikewile fet faffs at appointed times. They wear no linnen; and the woollen fhirts that are now allow'd them, is more than what was anciently admitted in the Ciftercian order: they lie upon ftraw-mattrafTes, with very coarfe covering. They- have a phyfician and chirurgeon to 1 2 attend H! 432 FLORENCE. LATRAP. attend the infirmary with proper medicines; which is more than S. Bernard allows his difciples ; the words of whofe rule are, Minime competit religioni veftree medicinas queer ere corporales. De vilibus quidem her bis inter- dum aliquid fumere tokrabile eft. At verb fpecies emere, queer ere medicos, accipere potiones, religioni indecens eft, &c. It " is no way fuitable to your religion to feek after medicines for " the body: — Now and then (indeed) to make ufe of fome " common herbs may be allowable. — But to go and buy drugs, " to fend for dodtors, and take potions, is unbecoming the " religion you profefs." When any of them is near death, he is brought into the church to receive the extreme unction: after which, he is carry'd back into the infirmary to die in form; for he is to die not on his ftraw mattrafs, but on loofe ftraw. The abbot fir ft fprinkles afhes, which have been blefs'd, in the form of a crofs, on the floor : then the ftraw is laid, and the dying perfon upon it : the * They make reft of the convent are fummon'd by the beating of a board *, ufe of 'the like to f ee himdie; repeating the creed two or three times over, expedient j-ii amongfeveral audibly. orders to call They are enjoin'd perpetual filence among themfelves ; nor is wXTrmid- a word fpoken, but in prefence of the prior, or fome fupenor; night orai- and that fcarcely at all, except in pious conferences, which are r ° ns ' appointed at fet times, and when ftrangers are with them. The only return they expect, or will receive for the enter- tainment they give you, is, that you buy fome fealing-wax, which they make of feveral forts, and a book of their confti- tutions. In our way from Florence to Bologna we pafs'dover the Giogo, the higheft and fteepeft afcent of the Appennine, that is in that part of Italy. The old fellow that liv'd at the top of it (where wechang'd horfes) feem'd a fort of deity of the place; always wrap'd in clouds : the houfe within was full of continual fmoke, which arofe fcarce at all here, but kept company with the clouds, which were likewife continually hovering without. The old laird of it, who was feventy-three years old, had liv'd Seventy of them in that place. Having got down the Giogo, and coming on toFiorenzola in the night, we faw the fires towards Pietra Mala : — Which 5 father 7 FLORENCE. L A T R A P. father Kircher, in his Mundus Subterranus, lib. iv. fed:. 1. cap. iii. fuppofes to be Jpiracula fubterranei ignis, " Vents of " fubterraneous fire." They appear'd to burn very clear in two places. The burning, they told us, is increas'd by rain. Father Kircher, in the fame place, affirms further, that this fire in the day-time (as I underfland him) ceu ex ardente fubtus fornace,. cahgat & fumat, injeSiafque calefacit aquas, ac incendit Jlipulas.- — — " as tho' there were a burning furnace under, fmothers " and frnokes, will make water hot, and fet ftraw on fire."' But the people there affirm it to be a fort of lambent flame, and without fmoke, fo that in the day-time nothing is fesn there of it. And I myfelf, once before pafiing by that way, in the day-time, faw not the leaft appea'rance of fmoke there, tho' I took particular notice; the poftilion fhewing me the place, •where he laid there appear'd fire in the night. And a Milanefe baron travelling in company with us at the fame time, before we came to the place, had told us, that fomewhere thereabouts, a fire appear'd in the night, but he did not know whether it were not then too light to fee it. One thing indeed is to be confider'd, that the temper of this place may vary, as that of mount Vefuvius does ; which burns not, nor fmokes alike at all tunes, and fometimes not at all : and further, that, thro' fome difference in the pabulem, this may be fupplied with at different times, when there is fire there it may be more or lefs grofs, and emit more or lefs fmoke. At Fiorenzola (a little town, but wall'd, as I remember^ a poor Capuchin had taken poffeffion of a bed, and was juft got warm in it, when we came to the inn. But upon our arrival,, they rouz'd the poor fellow to make room for one of our compa- ny : thofe gentry pay little or nothing for what they have, and money was better to the hoft than a ftring of Ave Maria's. After we had left Fiorenzola, we went over the mounts Li- voliand Redicofa, the later a bad paffage. Thefe are parts of the Appennine ftill. Soon after, we came to Feligari, a fmall town ; a little on this fide of it, we left the great duke's domi- nions, and enter'd the Bolognefe : there were fome altars on the road-fide. 433 ; B O L O G- 434 BOLOGNA. B O O N A. 'T^ H E city itfelf lies much upon a flat, but has on one fide -*• of it feveral confiderable eminences ; as that on which the noble convent of S. Michael in Bofco ftands, that of the Capuchins, and others: from each of thefe we have a very fine view, not only of the city itfelf, but of the vaft plain of Lom- bardy beyond it; which looks in the nearer part like a perfect wood, as (hewing at one view the many rows of trees which the vines run up; fome encompc.fling, others running crofs the fields : the plain goes off at a diftance not unlike the fea; for thefurface, as the diftance increafes, appears fmcother, by the leffening of the objects that are upon it, ftill as they go off from the fight, which has no other bounds than what the convexity of the globe gives it. I have here prefented a fketch of the fituation of this city. * Bologna la The grounds about it are very rich*, not only in the vaft fo'ena'theFat abundance of vines, olives, chefnuts, and other fruits, but likewife in corn, and good pafturage, which fills the markets with great plenty. The beef they have there, is (I think) the fineft I ever tafted. The poorer fort (tho' in fo rich a country, that abounds almoft wfth every thing that even luxury can defire or wiih for) do in a manner fubfift upon the bifcotti, as they call there the roafted chefnuts, which the huckfters roaft in the ftreets all about the town. All the principal ftreets of the city, and many of the leffer ones have on each fide a handfome portico, after the manner of that in Covent-Garden. Some portico's are of one order of pillars, fome of another; fome oddly fancied, of no regular or- der. The entrance into the palaces (of which there is a great number in this city) is generally very pleafant : you fee at once from the ftreetinto the gardens quite through the whole houfe, which is often built round a court : the difpofition of the pillars is handfome, with a mixture of ftatues fometimes, and greens, to enliven the profpect; and often a perfpective painting on a wall, at the further end, to continue it. The front on the outfide is generally well built, and in fome muft be called fine; the proportion of the rooms within, very good : but brick floors, BOLOGNA. LACERTOSA. *,« floors, as in other parts of Italy. The paintings in the palaces, but more efpecially ^m the churches, are vattly numerous, and many of them exceeding fine, by the beft matters of the Lorn - bard-fchool, which the virtuofi of the place are fo hardy as to prefer not only to the Venetian, but even to the Roman itfelf : fo much I believe may be allow'd, that no one family ever fen* out fo many great difciples as that of the Caraccidid, of whole excellent works there is great plenty. The churches are fome of them very fine; but, after having faid fo much of thofe at Rome and Naples, &c. I (hall forbear enlarging upon thofe of this city. The convents are many of them exceedingmagnificent, particularly that of the Dominicans, the Ohvetans, and the Carthufians. The two la ft are a little way out of town. The Olivetans is that of S. Michael in Bof- co, already mention'd. Thefe fathers have a circular cloyfter which was admirably painted by Guido, Ludovico Caracci, and others ; but has been miferably abus'd : they have a gallery a hundred and eighty four paces long. The Certofa [Carthufians] ttands in a fine air, and pleafant U Certofi iituation, in the midtt of vineyards. They have feveral courts with cloyfters, one as large as the great court of Trinity col- lege in Cambridge. Each father has to his proper cell a pretty garden, in which fome of them are very curious, having many excmck plants, &c. one of them had fifh in his cittern, which dia eat lettuce, and other herbs out of our hands. This fa- ther had tried fome experiments in grafting ; as of a vine on' a hg-tree, jafmrn on an orange, which had taken, and grew. All of them have fome employment for their vacant hours. We law a fine inlaid table which was made by one of them Another makes little images : another, fnuff; carrying it thro' the whole procefs, from the planting the tobacco. Father Oiovanni Girolamo paints in oil, and water ; turns with the rofe-engine, &e. He fhew'd us a baffo relievo in ivory [good figures] wh.ch he had made, and hollow'd behind, that it look'd as if it werechas'd. He is well-fkill'd in perfpetfive andopticks. He (hew ,3 us feveral dittorted draughts of his own, which in po- liced cylinders appear'd regular. He has a fine collection of prints, intaglio's, cameo's, and natural curioiities. In one part of the convent they have fome very handfome apartments for #3 ') BOLOGNA. MENDICANT I. for the reception of ftrarrgers; They have excellent paintings in their church, of all the Caracci, and others. About the church are as many frveral chapels as there are fathers in the convent, with an altar to every one. In one of thefe is the ■celebrated piece reprefenting S. John preaching in the wilder- nefs ; by Ludovico Caracci : Padre Giovanni Giroiamo tried his hand at engraving it. In another part of the church is the Communion of S. Jerom, by Agoftino : which the Bolognefe oppofe to that of the fame fubjeft at Rome, by Domenichin. Thefe (as feveral other orders) eat no flefh, rife at midnight, and keep fileoce ; two or three days in the week they dine together in the refeftory, the other days feparate, in their cells. It were endlefs to enter into particulars of the mod excellent paintings in the churches, conventual and others ; befides, that there is a printed book which gives fome account of them all. Ithink, indeed, one can hardly have ajuft idea of the Bolognefe matters, fuch as the Caracci's, Guido, &c. who has not feen their performances in the churches here; the great freedom of hand, and the fuperior fpirit in thofe grand defigns ftrikes much more than what we generally fee in their fmaller pieces does. I can- not forbear mentioning one piece (of a lower rate than what I have been fpeaking of, tho' a very good picture too,) which I chiefly remark'd for the particularity of the defign : 'tis in the • There is a- church of the Mendicanti * within the city. S. Jofeph f [for nother of the t h e y always faint him in Italy] is on his knees, before the Bleffed fame title _..■'. . - J ., , ■, , n ■ j__r — U„. .:.,.. r , ,,/V.«./V<.rl Uw without the walls. f An odd pifture. Virgin big with child, afking pardon for having fufpeAed her chaftity : "with one hand (he raifes him up ; with the other the points upwards, as (hewing from whence her pregnancy was deriv'd : fome angels are clofe by : one claps his finger to his nofe, as in waggery ; another goes off with his face turn'd a lit- tle alide, and his arms fpread, as in derifion. They keep this picture cover'd, but allow'd us a light of it, and 1 inateb'd the opportunity of making a very hafty lketch of it, which I have here prefented. The picture was painted by Tiarini, and is an altar-piece in one of the fide-chapels. In the church of Corpus Domini they fhew'd us the body of tharina Vigri. g_ Catharina Vigri, clothed in cloth of filver.: in her right hand (he holds a filvercrofs, her left refts on a book which lies on her knee: (he fits under a canopy, the curtains of which BoJyofS Ca. Jhy. 4 3 ff. 3& lyturetu' /i/szavf &s7?tv//,-r. BOLOGNA. S. PETRONIUS. 437 which are held back by angels, gilt over : other angels of the fame fort hold wax tapers on each fide. This lady, according to their account, has been dead above two hundred and fifty years, yet her nails grow, and are pared once a year, and her body wafh'd, the flefh of which they tell you is as foft as when alive : — that is to be taken upon their words, for you fee her only thro' a grate. The upper part of the face is black; about the lips it is more of a fiefh-colour ; the hands and feet look black. In this church is a moft celebrated pidrure of Han. Caracci, it reprefents the refurreclion of our Lord. There are feveral painted upon canvafs in guazzo [water-colour], by Francefchini, who was living when we were there, but old : this expedient he made ufe of to obviate the ill effecl which the various lights in a church have upon oil-painting, as to the Shining. The death of S. Jofeph, in a fide-chapel, is the moft celebrated of all his performances, and is highly efleemed. Mr. Miffon, fare", fancied Bologna to be d ire ell y .under the Merid:»» equator, or at leaft within the tropicks, when he fet about to me ' defcribe CafTini's meridian line in the church of S. Petronius ; or he never could have told us, The hole in the roof thro' whic.Ii a ray of the fun enters, was directly over the noon-point of the line. But tho' the latitude of Bologna were changed, to ferve his purpofe, he wanted ftill another expedient, when he ima- gined the noon-point of the line could be always the fame. Every point in the line where the fun's ray at any time falls thro' this hole is a noon-point, but never exaclly the fame any two days together ; nor can ever be.diredly under the hole, in a place that is not within the tropicks. The fituation of the church is almoft fouth and north, and not almoft eaft and weft, as that gentleman tells us it is : How elfe fhould a meri- dian ray fall, as he himfelf does (in that refpeel truly) defcribe it ? i. e. obliquely between the pillars that go along one fide of the great nave, and fo as but barely to find a pafiage between them : whereas, if the church flood almoft eaft and weft, the ray would take its courfe [with fome obliquity] acrofs the body of the church. The rays enter into the church through a hole in the roof of the fide-ifle : the line on which they fall be- gins in that ifle direclly under the hole, and ends at the bottom of the great nave : it confifts of a narrow flip of copper, with a Vol. If. K border 43 8 BOLOGNA. S. PETRONIUS. border of white marble on each fide of it, .laid in the pave- ment ; and has divifions upon it for all the degrees of the ecliptick ; and the feveral figns are marked, and every tenth degree of each numbered. The height of the hole above the floor is about ninety foot Englifh, as I gathered from a meafure, cut in the wall, which is exprcfled to be the one hundredth part of the height of the hole ; the length of the meafure is ten inches Englifh, and about fix eighths of an inch. One end of the line is, as I have obferved, direclly under the hole, at the point upon which a line let down from the hole per- pendicularly to the floor, would fall ; and for thirty-five foot from thence has none of the divifions or marks above-men- tioned upon it : at that diftance is the firft divifion, and by it is cut the mark for the tropick of Cancer, becaufe when the fun is in that tropick, the middle of the meridian-ray falls on the middle of the line at that divifion; and as the fun is then at its greateft height, that point is nearer the perpendicular of the hole, than any other upon which a ray of the fun can ever fall. From thence to the mark for the tropic of Capricorn, ■wjiich is at the extremity of the other end of the line, is a hundred and eighty-feven foot Englifh, fo that the whole line is two hundred and twenty-two foot Englifh long ; whereof a hundred and eighty-feven are graduated, for the degrees of the ecliptick, and the other thirty-five (as I have mentioned) are undivided. The ufual characters of the feveral figns are cut in the marble borders, at the proper divifions, the afcending figns on the one fide of the copper flip, and the defcending on the other. You have here a draught of that part of the church where the line is deicribed, as alfo of the line itfelf : on the wall, n'.ar the meafure which I mentiond to be cut there, which thews the height of the hole, is the following infcrip- lion cut in a fair marble. D.O.M. BOLOGNA. S, PETRONIUS. 432 D. O. M. AVCTORITATE ILLVSTRISSIMORVM SENATORVM PRAESIDIS, ET -FABRICENSIVM MERIDIANA HAEC LINEA HORIZONTALS SOI.EM IN MERIDIE E'TEMPLI FORNICE AD INSCRIPTA COELESTIVM LOCORVM SIGNA TOTO ANNO EXCIPIENfe ANTE XL. ANNOS PER INTERCOLUMNIVM OBLIQVE' OCCVRRENS REPERTO ANGVSTISSIMO TRAMITE PERDVCTA ECCLESIASTICIS ASTRONOM1CIS GEOGRAPHIC1SQVE VSIBVS ACCOMMODATA A' IOANNE DOMINICO CASSINO BONONIENSIS ARCHIGYMNASII ASTRONOMO PRIMARIO ET MATHEMATICO PONTIFICIO AB EODEM IN ITALICO ITINERE E' REGIA ASTRONOMICA PARISIENSI REGIAQVE SCIENT1ARVM ACADEMIA QVO' AD CHRISTIANISS. REGEM LVDOVICVM MAGNVM ANNVENTE CLEMENTE IX. SVM. PONT. CONCESSERAT AD ROLEM ITERVM DILIGENTISSIME EXPENSA COELESTI MERIDIANO ADHVC MIRE CONGRVERE INVENTA EST ET SEX'JENTIMILLESIMAM TERRAE CIRCVITVS PARTEM AB INITIO AD SPECIEI SOLIS HVBERNAE IPSAM FINIENTIS MEDIVM ACCIPERE HORIZONTAL! AVTEM POSITIONI VNDE EXIGVO TEMPLI MOTV INAEQVALIQVE SOLI ATTRITV RECESSERAT ACCVRATE' RESTITVTA INSTANTE ANNO MAXIMAE AEC^yiNOCTIORVM IN KALENDARIO GREGOR-IANO PRAECESSIONIS HIC' POTISSIMVM' OBSERVANDAE LABENTE ANNO SALVTIS MDCXCV, K 2 There 44° BOLOGNA. INSTITUTO. There is in the Certofa at Rome a meridian line, much in the nature of this, on the floor, made by Signor Bianchi, who (I think) was difciple to Caflini. In this church, on the feaft-day of the faint, to whom it is dedicated, and who is protector of the city, we heard a noble concert of muiick, vocal and instrumental, in which the per- formers were above a hundred and forty in number. They have here a bank for lending out money to poor perfons, much in the fame manner of the Monte di Pieta. at Rome. Befides the antient univerfity of Bologna, they have an aca- Inftituto. demy of a late erection, which they call the Inilituto : the La- tin infeription over the gate at the entrance, ftiles it BONONIENSE SCIENTIARVM ATQVE ARTIVM INSTITVTVM AD PVBLICVM TOTIVS ORBIS VSVM. The ground-floor is fet apart principally for defigning or drawing, and is furnifhed with cafts in gieflb of fome of the principal ftatues in Rome and Florence, to defign after; and at certain times is provided with living perfons likewife. At the entrance into this apartment are two defigns of human figures, large as life, with meafures upon them fhewing the proportion of the feveral parts ; done by Valeriano Milani, who is for juftnefs of drawing efteemed one of the beft in Italy. There is liberty for any body to defign here gratis. In another room, architecture and perfpective are taught by a mailer, who gives daily attendance there. The cieling of this room is painted in frefco by Pelegrino Tibaldi, in a bold mafterfy manner; fome academical figures, forefhortened : fome hilto- rical, particularly fome parts of the ftory of Polypheme; from whence Hannibal Caracci feems manifeftly to have taken a hint for his Polyphemes in the Farnefe gallery at Rome. In a room within that, are models in wood of the Trajan and An- tonine pillars, and the chief obelifks in Rome, according to their juft proportions, tho' of fmall fize. Above (lairs are many apartments, repofitories of feveral forts of curiofities, natural and artificial. In the Stanza Botanica, befides vafl variety of plants* are pieces of wood of all trees that are known. Another is for minerals and foffils. Another for BOLOGNA. IN STITUTO. 441 for the various forts of marble : in others, are inftruments us'd in aftronomy, and other parts of the mathematicks; fortification and gunnery, with models of fortifications and cannons, &c. In another are air-pumps, and other inftruments us'd in mecha- nical experiments. There are profeffors likewife, upon whom (Upends are fettled to read leclures in thefe and other matters. In other apartments, are inftruments us'd in the feveral forts of handicraft trades; till it comes to a perfect fmith's (hop in one of them. They (hew'd us fome of the old wooden plates for printing, in imitation of drawings ; an art which once flou- rifh'd much in Bologna. There are three of the plates for the fame print; the firft gives the lighter dye of the middle tinc~t, all over, except the principal lights, which are left hollow'd in the wood ; the fecond gives a deeper dye of the middle tindi% where it is neceffary ; the third is for the ftrongeft fhadows and the contours of the figures. We have an ingenious* Artift a- Mr. Kirk- mong ourfelves, who excels in this way, whofe performances the world is noftranger to. His plates (fome at leaft) feem to be of metal. In another room are reprefentations in painting of feveral meteorological phenomena, about the Alps, &c. One ihewing clouds where thunder and lightning are generated, below the tops of thofe mountains. Fulgetra non deorfum modb,fed etiam furfum & quaquaverfitm emitti, as in the infcription on it. Views of cataracts of the Nile, and other places, with the rain- bows formed by them. Other apartments there are for antiquities, idols, infcripti- ons, and other curiofities of that nature, with four hundred copper plates of animals, plants, &c. intended to be publifh'd, with books giving defcriptions of them. The principal apart- ments have friezes painted by the Abbate Primaticcio, Nicola del' Abbate, and others. This building was a palace, but was appropriated to this ufe with the allowance of Clement XI. -f- being purchas'd by tbet Ihavefeen Publick, (as I was there told) at the inftance of general Marfig ;L mec1al °f i-ii- c -/l>j n. c t. Clement XT. Ji, who at his own great expence lurniin d molt or the apart- where this In- ments above mention'd. ftuutois the reverie. One 44-2 BOLOGNA. PUBLICK PALACE. Publick pa- ri! on this fide the Alps. One day, as I was defigning fomewhat there, the general came in, and finding I was an. Englishman, he told me he had been in England, and fpoke much in praife of it. The Publick Palace, where are feveral courts of jufiice, the refidence al.o of the cardinal-legate, and Gonfaloniere, with his Antiani, is vaftly large, but not at all beautiful on the outfide. There are feveral fine apartments within, and fome excellent paintings by Guido, Paolo Veronefe, Carlo Cignani, &c. In one part is a large repofitory of curiofities ; and here are fhewn the hundred and eighty feven volumes in MS. of Aldrovandus, with the wooden plates for the cuts of the printed editions, and lim- r.ings in other books [fome very curious] of the animals, ve- getables, dec. that he treats of. We were at a collation in this palace given by the cardinal- legate in carnaval-time ; where were mobbifh doings among the ladies, even thofe of the firft quality, who fcrambled like boys for the fweetmeats, which they pocketed, and fent off in So they call handkerchiefs, &c. A Tramontane * company could but have behav'd thus. However grave and referv'd the Italians are at other titnes, they throw off all at the carnaval, in other places, as well as they do at Venice. In the piazza before this palace, is a noble marble fountain, with an admirable ftatue of Neptune in the middle by John de Bologna, and water-nymphs below, with the water fpouting out of their breads, in copper. The Palazzo Ranuzzi is particularly famous for a very large and fine double ftaircafe, and a noble hall : the later is quite new, and but juft finifh'd when we were there, 172 1. It is adorned with Corinthian pilafcers, and other ornaments, well imitating ftone; with paintings in guazzo, the hiitory of the family, and one repreienting the king of Denmark's reception in that palace. In the apartments, inftead of chimneys, we faw large caldano's of filver, for charcoal, in the middle of the rooms. At the Palazzo Fantucci J is another fine ftair cafe, which they fay coft fifteen thoufand crowns : the lleps are of Greek marble, each of one piece. X Elephantucius : there has been a faint of this family, whofe picltre is in the pa- lace. 3 At P.ilace Ra- nuzzi. Pal. Fantucci BOLOGNA. PAL. CAPRARA, &c. 443 At the Palazzo Peppli I obferv'd an inicription which lhewsPal. Pepoli. they deduce the origin of their family from fome imaginary fon of a king of England. IOANNES ALVERDI VI REGIS ANGIJAE FILIVS . FAMILIAE FVNDATOR CCMLXXII. Elfred, or Alfred, muft be the king they mean : who accord- ing to fome of our chronicles did begin his reign in theyear 872 ; but how he is made the fixth of that name, kino- of England, or the fixth king of England, I know not: and^we hear bat of two fons that he had, Edward and Ethel ward. The Palazzo Caprara is one of the moft magnificent for ar- Pal. Caprara. chitecfure; it is built round a court, of which a large ftaircafe with a double afcent, takes up one fide : a gallery runs along the oppofite fide, furnifh'd with fpoils taken from the Turks, by a general of this family. In this, and fome other palaces of Bologna, we faw fome of thofe admirable carvings of Bonini in wood, fix'd within boxes, reprefenting forefts octrees ; fo deli- cately wrought as 10 move with a blaft of wind: one of this fort I have heard is fomewhere in London. The Palace of the Mar.quis San Pieri is nothing extraordinary Pal.SanPieiii for its ftrudlure, but has the -ben: collections of paintings I faw in Bologna. There are of all the Caracci, fome in oil, fome in frefco j of Guido, Albani, Simon da Pefaro, Guercino, and others ; with fome excellent fculpture of Algardi, and fig- nor Mazza, a very good matter, living when we were there. Count Favi has alfo a very good collection, fome friezes, and Count Favi. other pieces by the Caracci, and other of the Lombard mas- ters. This count fliew'd us feveral things of his own copying very well perfor.m'd. In the Palazzo Bonfiglioli Senatorio, among feveral other Pal. Bonfig- excellent paintings, is a Flight into Egypt of Jofeph and the lio!i - Bleffed Virgin with Chrift; by Ludovico Caracci: they are paffing over a water in a boat : one angel holds the fail, and another the mad, and fpreadshis wings to the wind. The linen about the BlelTed Virgin's head feems to gather the wind too : fo that every thing appears as contributing to the motion. The countenances of the Virgin and Ch rift are admirable ; as indeed 444 .BCLOGNA. PAL. ZAN I, &c. indeed is the whole picture. The ferry-man rows after the Venetian manner. The Bolognefe will not bear a comparifon of Hanibal Ca- racci with Ludovico. Had Ludovico been as equal to himfelf as Hanibal was, I know not whether indeed he might not have claim'd the preference; but fuch inequalities as are fometimes feen, even in the feveral parts of the fame piece, do take off a good deal from his general character; particularly in that famous piece of his, the Gaduta di S. Paolo [which is the term they give to what we call the Conversion of S. Paul] in the church of the Francifcans. But, in fome he is almoft fuperlative. The Bolognefe give his manner the epithets of ferocijjima, ferribik, tremenda, &c. as ftriking with awe and reverence. Pal. Zani. In the Pahzzo Zani is that celebrated picture of Parmegiano, the Madonna della Rofa, the defign of which is pretty well known by the many copies there are of it. Here are .fome cielings painted in frefco, by Guido. di Atfignor Bonfiglioli's di Giliera, are fome good paintings ; and there is likewii'e a great collection of fine drawings, of all the Caracci, Raphael, Giulio Romano, Mich. Angelo, Poly- dore, Guido, Coreggio, &c. Some in frames and glafles hung up in the apartments, and two large books full : thefe .contain great variety of the beft mafters of the Roman, Bolognefe, and Venetian fchools : fome of the higher! finiih'd that 1 have feen of Giuiio Romano, heighten'd with a white- wash. Befides thefe, this gentleman has a fine library, and collection of medals ; he was was extremely obliging and com- municative. Sign. Belucci. Signor Belucci [a banker] has feveral good paintings; ar.d one room furnifh'd all with drawings ; a great many very good, by the Caracci, Guido, &c. Among them is an original drawing of Raphael for the famous picture of S. Cecilia in the church of S. Giovanni in Monte : it varies a little from the picture. In the Jlra * maggiore [the greater Street] we faw a hall finely painted, fides .and cieling in perspective; by Dentone. The * Slra hrflrada. The Bolognefe are very frugal in their pronunciation ; they Seldom give you above half the word. per- Bonfigl. Galiera BOLOGNA. PAL. ALBERGATL 445 performances of Metelli and Colonna the fame way (pretty fre- quent in the churches and palaces) are very much efteem'd. On the outfide of the Palazzo Bolognini we faw fome veryp a i. Bologni- fine heads in fculpture, much refembling the antique; by Al-"i- phonfo di Ferrara, and Giovanni Tedefcho, as fignor Mazza [lately mention'd] faid ; but count Bolognini himielf told me they were all by Alphonzo. At the palace of the Marchefe di Monti (who was Gonfalonier Pal. Monte. when we firft came there;) at the Pal. Malvafia; at that of fignor Quaranta Ifolani, Tanari, Magnani, Ratta, Zambeccari, and others; befides thofe of Ranuzzi, Caprara, &c. above- mention'd, are many excellent paintings, which I forbear troubling the reader with particularizing. About five miles out of town is a fine palace of count Alber- Pa] A [i uer _ gati; there is a noble plainnefs on the outfide. The wall of gad. the lower part is built, not perpendicular, but floping, baftion- wife. Within, is one of the noblefl halls I have feen. A portico at each end, with pillars of the Corinthian order, which fupport a gallery above. On each fide is a fort of vefli- balum (the cieling painted in frefco) which has an open paffage each way. Thro' thefe and the portico's you may go quite round the hall, which goes up to the top of the houfe. There is a cupola in the middle ; at the top of which is the hour- circle of a clock. Unicorns, arms and trophies are at each corner above. All the ornaments are of ftucco, but perfectly refembling ftone. There is a pair of flairs towards one corner, which leads to fome fmall upper rooms, where the afcent is ftrait, and the fteps muft confequently have been fteep ; fo it was contrived to divide them, to make them more eafy : in the manner as will be feen in the following page. There is a vifto quite thro' the houfe, with a moit pleafant profpecT: each way. The grandfather to the prefent count built it, and defign'd it all himfelf. Vol. II. Another 446 BOLOGNA. Another piece of work we faw (and 'tis an uncommon one) a portico of three miles in length, which goes from one of the city-gates along a flat of a mile and a half, and from thence for a mile and a half more up an afcent to a little church BOLOGNA. church on the top of a hill, where is lodg'd a picture of the Bleffed Virgin, pretended to have been painted by S. Luke. Tis for the fake of this Santa Imagine (as tbey^call it) that this portico was built, to make the proceffions along it, in devotion to that image, which is not at any time to be feen without a great deal of apparatus, lighting great number of wax-tapers, &c. tho' the fun fhine at the fame time upon it, as it did when we faw it. The devout look upon it kneeling, and have a fet of prayers ufual upon the occafion. This portico was built by voluntary contributions ; many of the arches were done wholly at the expence of the nobility, and are diftinguifhed by the arms of the builder, which are paint- ed within them, and are repeated in every arch where the fame perfon built feveral. The meaneft artificers, the oftlers in inns, and other fervants, have alio done their quota, which is likewife diitinguifhed by infcriptions, and fome device under each arch inftead of a coat of arms. At certain diftances are little chapels or oratories, with devotional pidures in frefco. In another church, called S. Paolo in Monte, fometimes l'Ofiervanza, a little way out of town, I faw a crucifix of wood, under which was written Quefio crucifijjo ha parlato, [This cru- cifix has fpoken.] I afked one of the monks what it had faid ; but he was not ready to tell me. He had doubtlefs the bell: of reafons for it. The well-known aenigmatical epitaph \_JElia Lcslia, &c] is in the poffeffion of Domenico Francia, a merchant, at the Cafa Ralta, about a mile out of Bologna. It is inferred in the out- fide wall of the houfe. There have been above forty books written with an endeavour to explain it, and, by what I can find, it is (fill as far from being cleared as the dark author in- tended it ihould be. One of the lateft (which ought to be the cleareft) is a piece of jargon as unintelligible as the thing- itfelf. In the garden of the marquefs Poeta, we faw one kind of the ficus Indica, the fruit red, the leaf thick, and like a dog's ear. This grew not as a tree, but rather as a plant, clofe to the ground. There are of the fame name about Naples, which grow as trees about two or three yards high. We faw jeifemin here flowering in November, and the gar- dener told us it does fo all the year round, and that they made twenty pifloles per annum of the flowers, and fometimes more. L 2 They 447 44§ BOLOGNA. They grow all along an efpalier, not above twenty yards in length. Bologna is a place where they deal much in effences and per- fumes, as they like wile do at Rome ; which makes the market the better for odoriferous flowers. The Gonfalonier for the time being is the chief magiftrate in the city, on the part of the republick, as the cardinal-legate is on the part of the pope, and goes attended with guards. The fenators take this ofhce in their turns. Of thefe the number was once only forty, but upon their becoming fubject to the pope, he added ten more; yet they are ftill called the Qua- *• They often ranta, and in all perfonal addreffes they are ftiled Sieur * Oua- fcTXti^"" ranta - T he °ffi ce of Gonfalonier continues but two months, and long enough too, confidering the conftant attendance they are obliged to: for they are required to be continually at the publick palace, and there to hear in perfon the meaneft that comes upon any bufinefs to them. If the Gonfalonier fleeps a-nights at home, 'tis in ftridtnefs a defertion for that time, tho* not infifted on, for they do at night go to their own houfes by connivance : but he is accountable if any thing ill happen, dur- ing his abfence from his port ; where he is fuppofed to be always prefent, and ready with his guards about him upon any emer- gency j which a noble perfon very truly called a mounting the guard for two months. The office devolved, when we were there, upon Signor Legnani, our next neighbour : the Marq. di Monte was his predeceifor. At the acceffion of each new Gonfalonier, there is a cuftornary fee of eatables to the Swifs guards, called afiierenda, which they fetch from the Gonfalonier's houfe to the publick palace in great ceremony. The proceffion of the animals, the oxen led along with gar- lands, the wine, &c. put me in mind of an antient Roman facririce; the hog, the wether, and the ox, much refem- bling the old fuovetaurilia. The particulars of the proceffion would be too tedious and trifling. They made the creatures as fine as they could, gilding the hams and hoofs of the oxen, &c. and likewife the fnouts of the hogs ; perhaps as having now done with rooting in the dirt. A fountain of wine was running all the time of the ceremony; which was finifhed with a largefs of bread to the common people, and thrown among them ;,- money then the Gonfalonier rees attended by BOLOGNA. 449 by the Antiani *, who are eight noblemen of the city chofen * They are by him as his companions, together with the reft of the nobi-F aI1 " 1 c ° n . fu - J ' i i i- i i 11 . les JSimeftns, lity, fenators, &c. to the publick palace; where he receives as r have ob- from the preceding Gonfalonier the ftandard [gonfalone] of the ferv'd in their republick, and inftrudtions from him of the prefent pofture ofj?. 11 - ' t ; op ™" affairs, and what he is to do : and then he takes the ufual oaths, which are adminiftred by the cardinal-legate. The cardinal- legate continues for three years : he is appointed by the pope, together with a vice-legate, and other affiftants. He iflues out his orders, with the conient of the Gonfalonier and fenatej who, I fuppofe, muft not refufe it. They have the word LI- BERTAS (till flourifhing in their city-arms, and glory much in their republick, with a S. P. Q^B. in all their publick places : yet they feem to be pretty much under the hank of his holinefs, tho' in a Far better ftate than moft of their neighbours. They have in their churches a diverting piece of dti'votipni Oratorio, which they call an Oratorio: it is a mufical drama of two acts, after the manner of the ftage-opera's, with recitative between the fongs. The fubject is either fome fcripture-ftory, or a ftory of fome of their own faints ; generally the laft. Be- tween the acts there is a fermon ; fo timed (1 fuppofe) to fecure fuch of the audience as might be apt to leave the preacher in the lurch, if they were not to have fome mufick to fweeten their mouths with at laft. The whole is introduced with a per- formance fomewhat unufual, a difcorfo (as they term it) fpoken by a little boy : we heard two of them : the firft was about fix years old, who mounted the roftrum with a manly gravity, and after having faluted the audience, cock'd his hat, (tor they are cover'd upon fuch occafions in the churchs) and with a folemn wave of his hand, pronounced Sikntio ! before he began his difcourfe. The latter could not be above four years old, both by his fize and fpeech, for he could but juft fpeak plain ; him they dreft up in the habit of a prieft; and the little creature performed to a miracle.- The fubjedl of the difcourfe is ta- ken from the occalion of their meeting ; the former was upon the eve of All-Souls ; Charity to our Friends in purgatory was the topic. The latter was on the night of the grand procef- fion, on account of the plague, which was then at: Marseilles : cf that, Repentance and Humiliation was the fubjecl. They teach thole little orators, not only the emphafis and accenr, but 45° ■ BOLOGNA. but the proper aftion likewife, which they perform extremely well. There was at Bologna (as in other cities of Italy) upon the laft-mention'd occafion, a week's intermiffion from operas, and all publick diversions, by order of the pope, which they call a Jubilee, for the taking out of indulgencies at certain churches *, .appointed by the pope. I thought it odd to call a time of hu- miliation a Jubilee ; but it is termed fo, as I was informed, be- caufe Heaven is then declared by his holinefs to be in a particular manner open. On the firft day of the Jubilee there was a gene- ral proceflion of all the religious orders, and alfo of the citi- zens in feveral companies, thro' the moft publick parts of the city. Several particular proceffions continued all the week. The proceflioners wear upper garments of linen, which they have ready upon fuch occasions, with veils over their faces, hav- ing holes only for their eyes to peep thro'. He that carries the crucifix goes before therh bare-foot. They go to attend fune- rals in like manner ; and upon thofe occalions boys are fome- times drefTed with wings to reprefent angels attending the corpfe, which is carried with the face and hands and feet uncovered. On the eve of the Immaculate Conception [Dec. 7.] we heard an -j- academical performance, confifting of fhort exercifes, fome in verfe, fome in profe, upon the immaculate conception of the Blefled Virgin, fpoken by feveral in their turns ; among which were fome of the chief quality in the city, the prefident of the fociety beginning the performance. It was in the church of S. Francefco J. The cardinal-legate, and Gonfalonier, were prefent. The firft of them upon this and all other occafions of his appearance in publick has a fort of throne, with a balda^- chino or canopy, erecled for him. The performance conclud- ed with fireworks, illuminations, &c. On the day following (which was the feafl-day) was a great concert of muiick, both vocal and inftrumental, in the fame church, which they told us was compofed by a boy of thirteen years old. * Some churches have more privileges than others, and fome altars in the fame church, for this purpofe. t An Academy is a general word us'd among them for publick aflemblies and perfor- mances, whether of mufick, or of Belles-lettres. % TheFrancifcans are extraordinary Sticklers for the immaculate conception ; in op- position to the Dominicans ; for which reafon they fignalize them/elves particularly on this fcaft. On BOLOGNA. 451 On the 1 T th of November [S. Martin's day] is held an annual feafl: in memory of the banifhment of the Bentivoglio family from Bologna for attempting to maintain the fovereignty of that place againft the pope, [Julius II.] after feveral popes his prede- ceffors had been poffeffed of it. Their palace was pulled down, never to be rebuilt, and the ground ftill lies vacant. The family is now fettled at Ferrara, where they have a fine palace. The cardinal of that name and family happened to be at Bologna about the time of this anniverfary, when we were there, and did not fcruple to remain in the city the very day of the feafl:. Next to the place where the Bentivoglio palace was, that of the marquis Paleoti is. The execution of the brother of this marquis in England occafioned this reflection at Bologna, with refpedt to their having imprifoned the earl of Peterborough, in fort Urbano : " That the Englifh were a people not to be jefted " with. We did (fay they) but imprifon one of their counts, " and they have hanged one ot our marquises." The marcuis we faw at Bologna converfed with us with more candour and freedom, than (as Englishmen) we could have expected. I obferved more poor naked boys in Bologna than in any city whatever that we were in. The reafon I was told is, that they are turned out of the Pieta at fix or feven years old, and no care taken of them afterwards *. When I have gone out early in a * I" cfie morning, I have feen them lying in heaps by dozens, neflline aiT' sat , 1 1 r 1 1 1 i-i 1- 1 • , . , ° JVh'an and together as dole as they could, like little pigs, having no other elfewhere they covering than the forry rags they wear all day, nor any thin<^ are entertain - j .? u v. i fi 1 11 n D ed till fourteen under them, except perhaps a little It raw, upon the cold ftones years, under the publick porticoes ; and the winters there are at leaft as cold as ours. We fee there feveral children of the better fort, drefTed (as foon as they go) in the habits of feveral orders of friars. Thefe are devoted from the womb ; either for fome deli- verance of the mother from fome imminent danger at the birth, cr upon fome particular occafion during the preg- nancy. The Bolognefe nobility, tho' they live in the city, keep their country eftates in their own hands, which are manur'd and till'd by their vatfais, and other poor people, at low rates. The produce of them, or great part thereof, is brought to their ma- gazines in town ; and in their dealings they make a chief part of their 452 M O D E N A. their •payments in corn, Sometimes in wine; which the people of quality there retail ; as they likewife do at Florence, where they have little wickets in their gates, or walls, of a iize only ■to put thro' a lingle flafk of wine. • Bologna is a place of freer converfation than moil in Italy; the men gay, genteel, and fociable ; and the ladies not fo re- clufe as in moil other places. About a poft and half from Bologna, towards Modena, is the FortUrbano, already mention'd, built by Urban theVIIItb, who raifed the Barberini family. A little beyond that, near the Ponte del Ein?a, we left the Bolognei'e, and enter'd the Modenefe. M O D E N A. ' E went here to fee the duke's palace, and the fine Gallery of Pictures, for that they call it (a Gallery of Pictures being the ufual term in Italy) tho' it is indeed a fuite of rooms one within another. To give a particular catalogue of them all, would be but fuch an entertainment to the reader as the calling over an inventory would be. The moft noted ones are, The famous Notte di Coreggio, a Nativity : 'tis fo far a night-piece, as that all tbe light of the picture flows from the infant, who feems perfectly to thine : and tho' there be fcarce any fhadow at all in that figure, yet the limbs are all perfectly well rounded off, with an inexpreffible delicacy and tender- nefs. The fhadows caft on the reft of the figures, with little lights catching on the feveral parts, and a bright one on the face of the Virgin, which is juft over the Chrift, have a moft de- lightful effect. This thought has been followed by great num- bers of others, which we have feen. This is one of many that were taken out of the churches : and there is a copy of it now in the church of S. Profper at Reggio, where the original once was. The copies ferve the devotion of the people as well ; and the virtuofi fee them in a much better light where they are, and better preferv'd. His highnefs doubtlefs thought fo, or elfe he who was once a cardinal himfelf, would hardly have de- prived the church of them. Among the many pieces of Titian in this gallery, there is one particularly noted for its high finifhing; it is called the Moneta, being the tribute-money ihewn to Chrift. But fome of his in this M O D E N A. this collection, tho' not fo highly finifhed, are (I think) prefe- rable to it. They fhew another picture, which is faid to be of Coreggio, but a good deal differing from his ufual manner : it is moil: high- ly finifh'd, and (if one may object any thing to fo celebrated a piece,) feems rather over-labour'd, and the feet not very correct- ly drawn. It is a Magdalen lying along, and reading, with her head rais'd up, and fupported by her right hand. 'Tis fet in a filver frame adorn 'd with jewels. There is a copy of it at Parma, faid to be by Titian, but it feem'd to me rather in Ca- racci's manner. This famous picture is clofeted up, and when {hewn, is brought forth with great folemnity. I have feen at London a little picture reprefenting part of the fame figure, faid by the poffeffor, Abbate Riari, to be Coreggio's fir ft thought for this. In the room where they fhew this picture, are feveral ritratts of his highnefs's anceftors at full length, by Titian, and other eminent mafters. The collection is chiefly of the Lorn- bard-fchool, except a Madonna of Raphael, and another, which is a Bacchanal, faid to be of him; but, only call'd his firft manner, and that dubitable ; and, three battles of Giulio Ro- mano, with one or two more pieces of other mafters. The apartments are fmall, and have but little furniture, which you can call fine, befides the pictures. There has been fome new work at the palace, but it feems at prefent to be at a ftand. The facade to the right is finifh'd without, and the fame fide of the palace unfinifh'd within : the other fide vice verfa. There is a handfome ftair-cafe, and an open portico leading to the apartments. From Modena we pafs'd thro' Reggio, already fpoken of, and fo to Parma. 453 R M A. ^ H E view of this city thro' an arch (like a triumphal one) x about a furlong diftant from it, is very pleafant. You come a confiderable way in a ftrait road, and all along have in view one of the principal towers, exactly anfwering the middle of the arch. Vol. II. M The 454 PARMA. The two famous cupola's of Coreggio, and other paintings of that mafter in the dome, and in the church of S. Giovanni of the Benedictines, have been defcrib'd by feveral ; fo I forbear enlarging upon them. Though 'tis with great pleafure one ob- ferves the admirable beauty and harmony in thefe grand perfor- mances, even at the diftance they are feen, yet I believe ev^ v cne that fees them, feels fome regret that he cannot have a nearer view of them, efpecially fuch as would be inquifitive as to the colouring part, which had fo great a fhare in the character of that mafter. They are much decay'd. The theatre at Parma outdoes all I ever faw for magnificence of ftru&ure, and advantage of feeing ; and of hearing too j at leaft in fome refpedls. It will contain (as they told us there) fourteen thoufand fpeclators. One effect of the contrivance in it is wonderful with refpedl to the hearing ; that fpeaking but a degree above a whifper, the words are diftinftly heard from the remoteft part of the ftage to the very door of the entrance at the other end, as we tried in feveral inftances. This was what we took notice of in the empty theatre ; for there were no opera's on foot when we were there. But I have heard an eminent mafter of mufick in Italy complain of this theatre, as not doing juftice to the mufick, in the performance of an opera ; that it is not heard to fo much advantage here, as in fome other theatres. The pictures in the duke's gallery are too numerous to trou- ble the reader with a full account of them, and many of them too fine to be barely mention'd : however, I will take notice of two or three of the principal. Some Madonna's of Raphael.. 'One is call'd the Madonna del Gatto, from a cat coming from under the table. This man- ner of description is frequent in Italy : as Parmegiano's famous Madonna della Rofa, at Bologna. Another, with the Chrift lying on his back, and the arms flung up, a moft lively figure ; 'tis the fame attitude as that at Loreto. Another of Raphael, a Holy Family, painted in that palace ; of which fome copies are in England. Andrea del Sana's famous copy of Raphael's ritratt of Leo X. &c. which is at Florence. The gallery-keeper, when he fhew'd it us, called it an original of Raphael. I knewthat other account they fometimes give of it, and advis'd him for 5 the PARMA. the future to allow it to be a copy ; and flick to the old 455 ftory of its being fuch a copy as even Giulio Romano could not di- ftinguifh from the original, tho' he himfelfhad work'd in one part of it. A fine ritrat of Paul III. by 'Titian. There are two or three ritratts of this pope : one when he wasvery old, in Guazzo, over the door at the entrance. A DanaS and Cupid, by the fame ; excellent. Antea, Parmegiano's miftrefs, with a fquirrel on her arm S the figure ftands with the face fore-right ; by Parmegiano. A Venus, furrounded with Cupids ; one leads off a girl : by H. Caracci. The marriage of S. Catherine, little; admirably good. I think it as agreeable a picture as moft I have feen : by Coreg- gio. Signor Gabbiani of Florence made a very good copy of it, which we faw at his houfe there. _ At the upper end of the fecond gallery, which makes a right angle with thefirft, is a piece of frefco-painting of Coreg- gio, reprefenting the coronation of the Bleffed Virgin, which was brought from the Tribuna of the choir of S. Giovanni, when that Tribuna was taken down to enlarge the choir : but the painting was taken care of, and brought to this gallery, by the father of him who fhew'd us the gallery, who was then living, 1721. It is finely colour'd, and in a great flyle ; much in the manner of the cupola of that church. There is in this gallery a piece of rock-cryftal two foot terv inches, by two foot fix ; it is a Biceps, in the figure they gene- rally defcribe Parnafius. . . Out of this fecond gallery you go into a room, where is a very large, valuable, and finely difpos'd collection of medals, which will ftill be much enlarg'd by a late purchafe, not yet added to them. Thofe now there, are not hid in drawers,' as ufual, but are all ready for view at once on feveral tables, which have over them a defence of wire (no hindrance to the fight of them) to prevent pitchy fingers, which are now and then found among Virtuofi, and which that very room has not been free from. And for feeing the reverfes, there is a contrivance to turn them all, a whole row at one turn. Befides the medals, here are a great many fine intaglio's and cameo's , among the M z hft 45 6 PARMA. laft I obferv'd a moft excellent one of Mare. Aurelius ; and an- other of the Rape of Ganymede; from which Mich. Angelo, no doubt, took his defign for that picture of his which was in the duke Di Bracciano's palace, purchas'd among others by the duke of Orleans. J have feen in England one of the fame defign. Among the drawings which are hung upon the walls of this room, I obferv'd an admirable one of Giulio Romano, a Banquet of the Gods, with this line writ on it. SvjWToo-w Tar' er/ QtSr, Procul ejie prophani. They (hew likewife drawings of Raphael's Transfiguration, and Michael Angelo's Laft Judgment, which they call originals ; as they do a piclure of the latter, at the upper end of the firft gallery, which they fay is Michael Angelo's Jbozzo [or firft model] for that performance. I could not agree with them, tho' it is a fine piece : it has too much finifhing, and too little fpirit, and is not ib firmly drawn as to induce one to believe it to be what they call it. The chief mafters, whofe works make this admirable collection, (and fome of whom have been nam'd already) are Raphael, Giulio Romano, Coreggio, Titian, Schidone, Ludovico and Hanibal Caracci, Parmegiano, Andrea del Sarta, Guido, Lanfranc. Nor muft we forget a moft in- genious female artift, of whofe work there are two pieces : in one is her own ritratt : in the other are her three filters, &c. as the infcription fhews, Sophonisba AnguJJbla, Amilcaris filia, tres J'uas forores, & ancillam pinxlt MDLV. The former is much the fame with that in my lord Cadogan's gal- lery. -* In the Palazzo di Villa, or garden-houfe, which is at the other end of the town, tho' there are many excellent paintings of Hanibal, &c. yet in fhewing this palace they lay the greateft ftrefs upon the laft and unfmifh'd work of Agoftino, in frefco,, the fides and cielingof a fmall, butpleafant room. In one part they fhew this infcription. Augujiinus Caraccus, dum extremes immortalis fiui penicilli traclus in hoc Jemi-piSlo fomice moliretur, ab officih pingendi & vivendi fob umbra liliorum gloriose vacavit. Tu, fpeSiator x inter PARMA. PIACENZA. inter has dukes piElurce acerbitates pafce oculos, & fatebere decuijfe potiiis intaSlas fpeSlari, quam aliena ?nanu traSfatas maturari. " While Auguftine Caracci was attempting to give the finifli- " ing touches of his immortal pencil to this half painted vault, " he here beneath the fhade of lillies, with glory refitm'd at " once both his art and life. Whoever thou art that vieweft " the fweet roughneffes of thefe paintings, feed thine eyes, " and confefs that it was fit they fhould rather be view'd with- " out being farther touch'd than be wrought up and finifh'd by '* any other hand." About five miles from Parma, we pafs'd the Taro, in a ferry made of two boats, as already defcrib'd at the Po. About a mile further, we pafs'd by the Caftello Guelpho. About three miles beyond that, we came to Colorni, a feat of the duke of Parma's : . Nothing there fo remarkable as to engage our flay. At Borgo S. Domino, which is twopofts, about fifteen miles, from Parma, we faw a convent of jefuits newly built, where- thofe gentlemen have good fat poiTeffions. 457 I E N A. ~*HREE pofts more brought us to Piacenza, another city •*- of the duke of Parma. In the ducal palace, upon the walls of the hall, and in the apartments, are painted in frefco the hiftories of Alexander Far- nefe, and of Pope Paul the Third. In the great Piazza is an equeftral ftatue in copper of the fame Alexander; and another of Ranuccio, with this infcription RANVCCIO PIACENTIAE ET PARMAE D. GONFAL PERPET. In the church of S. Siflo is a Madonna of Raphael, with the Chrift in her arms, ftanding on a cloud, if one may call it ftanding, for the feems perfectly in motion: below is S. Sifto on one fide, and S. Scholaftica on the other. In the dome are fome very good paintings of Lud. Caracci, Lanfranc, Guercino, Camillo Procacini, and Francefchini of Bologna. The organs and mufick-gallcries in this church are finely built. j a 458 P I A C E N Z A. In the church of the Madonna Campagna are fome good paintings of Pordennone in frefco. This duke has an Irifh company in pay, who keep guard at the palace where his highnefs refides. After we had feen the palace, and the fervant who fhew'd it had been hanfomely gra- tified, one of the inferior fervants came to our houfe to alk money, tho' he had given no attendance at all, nor had any thing to do with us. Such a thing would look very odd in England, how far foever the Italians may value themfelves upon punctilio above the Tramontani; were there indeed any ftrefs to be laid upon the behaviour of fuch fellows, who have as little regard to the honour of their own mafters, as they have of civility to ftrangers. We pafs'd the Po a little without Piacenza. At Mirandola we left the duke of Parma's dominions, and enter' d the Mila- nefe : a fmall ditch parts them. In this road we met one with a cloak made of rufhes. At Lodi, two pods fhort of Milan, they now make the befr, cheefe in Italy; formerly the beft cheefe of that fort, ufed to be made about Parma : and thence took the name of Parme- gian, or Parmezan, which, notwithstanding the change of place, it ftill retains. It has a quality very oppofite to our Cheshire ; for 'tis reckon'd moll in perfection, when a moifture Hands vifible in the pores of it: and that is of fo vifcous a con- fidence, that when you break a lump of it in two pieces, and draw them gently aiunder, you may fee the moifture extended like a multitude of fmall hairs from one to the other. Such as I have tafted in England has been drier, fo as not to fhew that efftcT:. We met with nothing more, worth taking notice of, till we came to Milan, which is feventeen pofts from Bologna, all an open, fair, and exceedinggood road, except about five or fix miles near Cafali. MILAN. MILAN. MILAN. HP HIS city is celebrated for its extent, the fortifications A being faid to be near eight miles round. As all the chief cities of Italy are diftinguifh'd by their feveral epithets, Genoa the Stately, Florence the Fair, &c. fo Milan is ftiled the Great ; not but that I found it much finer too than I expected, by fome accounts I had heard of it. It is fituated upon a fair and fer- tile plain, well water'd with abundance of rivulets, which have been brought thither with a good deal of art and contrivance, as well as expence. In fome places as we came along, we faw them brought one over another, where the grounds lay fo that the currents mull crofs j fo that one brook ran over the bridge, while another ran under it. By the help of thefe currents they lay their rice-grounds under water, which that grain requires : it grows in great quantities about fix or {even miles from the city. I fuppofe they have induftrioufly avoided planting it nearer the city ; for, tho' the grain be wholefome, the air where it grows is not efteem'd fo, by reafon of the ftagnated water. The vines about Milan are made to grow much in the form of a hay-rack for a farm yard, raifed about four or five foot from the ground j and with thefe the fields in fome parts are over- fpread. 459 I ¥ From 460 MILAN. From the top of the dome we had a full view of the great plain around the city; the neareft hill we faw, they told us, was above thirty miles off: others, to which the plain extends itfelf, are vaftly further. The city is almoft circular, and has been fortified all round, having a large caftle on one fide. Tho' fo large a city, it has not what one can properly call a river; but it is water'd by two currents, to each of which they give the name of Navile,- one of them furrounds the outfide, the other runs concentrical, within the town. As thefe were brought thither by art, fo they are not very large, but, in the manner they are difpos'd, they do very well anfwer the conveniency of the place, efpecially that within the town. The great church, and the chief place of the tradefmen, [Piazza de' Mercanti] are much about the centre of the city ; as if at the placing them they had in view the equal conveni- ency of all the furrounding inhabitants, both with regard to their fpiritual and temporal concerns. The ftreets are generally broader than what are ufually found in the cities of Italy. The houfes are not very fine on the out- fide ; nor are the people fo fond of giving the better fort of them the title of Palazzo, as in other parts of Italy. The gover- nor's houfe is indeed diftinguifh'd by that name ; tho' it has little title to it for any beauty on its outlide ; but it is very large, and has fome good apartments. In one part of it are held the tribunals of juflice. His excellency gives audience as a prince, ftanding. Count Coloredo was governor when we were there. He receiv'd my lord Parker with a great deal of civility and refpect, invited his lordfhip and me to dinner, and entertain'd us with great courtefy and freedom. In the Archi-Vefcovato, where the cardinal archbifhop lives, there is one very handfome court ; a double portico going round, Doric and Ionic, with the Tufcan charge of Ruftic. It was built by S. Carlo Borrhomeo when he was archbifhop. From this palace there is a paffage under the ftreet, to the dome, whither S. Carlo us'd to go in the night'to pray. That faint is now had in fuch veneration at Milan, that he fcems to have quite eclipfed S. Ambrofe, who ufed to be the principal and favourite faint there. Some MILAN. Some few of the principal houfes have handfome fronts; and many others, which want that advantage, are very handfome within, and have fine apartments; and their pofTeflbrs are courteous. The churches are feveral of them fine enough ; fome of them fronted with white marble, and in a good tafte of architecture; but now and then a little over-charged with ornaments. The famous Dome, f'omuch talk'd of, difappoints one a little Dome, at firft fight, the front being not half finifh'd, and the floor within, above half way up the great nave, being yet only pav'd with brick ; and women are allow'd to have flails, and fell fruit there. A great deal of the reft of the outfide is yet unfinhh'd too; tho' it was begun to be built anno 1387, which is above three hundred and thirty years fince. Antonio Homodei was the architect of it ; as I found by a medaglion of him in white marble among other ornaments, at the top of the church. The architecture is Gothick, but as rich and fine of the kind as can well be. It is all white- marble within and without; but dirt and fmoke have pretty much chang'd its colour in the older parts : and for ornaments, it is indeed furprifing. Befides above two hundred flatues of white marble, fome of them very good, which I counted, larger than the life, that go round the two fides and the eaft end, there are lefler ones alrnoft innume- rable, about the windows and other parts; they are in one re- fpect literally fo, there being great numbers of them hid behind other ornaments, and clofeted up in niches, fome in perfect cages, of what we call tabernacle-work : there are a multitude which cannot be feen at all, without going up to the leads of the fide- iiles; and there you have them peeping out of every corner. by the windows and buttreffes, together wkh other orna- ments of baflb-relievo figures and foliage, perfectly curious in their kind, and finer (I think) than any below ; as if 'they meant particularly to reward the pains of thofe who should come up lb high to lee them. Befides what is already fpoke of, there are a great many large Cariatides, and a world of figures in grotef- -que attitudes, reprefenting dragons, and I know not how many forts of chimerical fancies, about the water-fpouts and other parts. 461 Vol. II. N The 462 MILAN. The top is all to be cover'd (but who knows when ?)' with white marble : a <*ood deal is done ; tho' it feems but little, when eompar'd with what ftill remains to be done. The new marble covering is of large flat fiones, about three inches thick; the joints are not covered, but well cemented to- gether, with a mixture of pitch, oil, and pounded marble, and there is a narrow border left round the edge of each (tone, whereby the joint becomes the higheft part; this is to prevent the wet from refting there. And as this marble covering can- not fo well conform with the fhape of the feveral vaults which form the roof of the church, the outfides of the vaults are rai- fed with brick, to bring the work to an even flope, or hanging level, at the furface ; by which means there is a very unequal preflure, there being a vaft thicknefs of bricks in the lower parts, and by a gradual diminution they end in nothing at the top. Count Forieri, a nobleman of Milan, a great virtuofi, fhew'd us one day two old original defigns of the architect [Homodei] for the front ; but they have neither of them been follow'd in the work itfelf ; and the later directors of it have ftudied a re- finement in the tafte of architecture, by making the pilafters; door-cafes, and fuch window-cafes as are done, fomewhat in the Greek way inftead of Gothick: but it feems not to have fo good an effect as they propos'd ; for the work is now not of a piece : this is, varias inducereformas, the very thing that Ho- race warns compofers of all kinds to avoid. There are fome good alto-relievo's on the front, by Jo. Pet. Lafanius : but they have left more than half of it unfinished, ('tis above a hun- dred years, they fay, that it has not been touch'd) and are at workon other parts, which they go on with in theGothick way, fuitable to the reft ; but in a very flow manner ; which they are not without their reafons for. All the five gates are finifhed ; and two windows on the left hand of the entrance. The front they give in the print of this church is all imagi- nary; it is what never was there; and never is like to be there, iince they have now changed the defign of it. The infide puis one a good deal in mind of Weftminfter abbey, except that this has five ifles. The outfide of the choir is fet round with alto- relievo's of white marble, fcripture ftories ; by Andr. Biffl. The infide, over the flails of the canons, is adorned with mezo- relieva's. MILAN. relievo's in wood, of the life and miracles of S. Ambrofe. They have taken care particularly to reprefent his expulfion of Theodofius out of the church, the emperor's fubmiflion at his feet, and re-admiffion thereupon. The gates, which upon thatoccafion he fhutagainft the emperor, tbeyfhew'd us at an- other church, built (as they fay) by S. Ambrofe, and fince dedi- cated to him. So much of the floor as ispav'd with marble, is indeed very fine. More than half of the whole church is done ; but they do not go on with it now, nor have they in the me- mory of any man living. The capitals of the columns are fet round with niches of fpired tabernacle-work, and many of them are fill'd with flames. The whole number within and without the church is faid to be four thoufand four hundred ; and they are (till making new ones to ftipply the vacant niches. The mod celebrated of all is one of S. Bartholomew, which was once on the outfide, but is nowplac'd on a pedeftal within the church. It is indeed a fine piece of fculpture, the mufcles all firmly exprefs'd .; for the faint is intirely ftript of his fkin, which is flung as a loofe drapery over fome parts of him. Marco Ferrerio, called Agrate, was the author of it j and they have written under it, Non me Praxiteles, fed Marcus finxit dgratus. Over the choir, high in the roof, is preferved what they fay is a nail of the crofs, in a cafe of cryftal, plac'd in the center of a fun of gilt metal, with angels of the fame material amono- the rays; fome with veflels of incenfe ; others, with the othe'r inftruments of the paflion. Under the choir is a grotta-chapel, where are depoiited the relicks of fome martyrs! Lamps are continually burning- there. But the mod precious relique of that kind is the body of S. Carlo, which is kept with great veneration in another fubterraneous chapel which has a com- munication with that lad: mentioned. In the church, juft un- der the cupola, there is an opening thro' the floor into this chapel; the opening is cover'd with a grate of wire, and has a parapet-wall round it, as if it were a well ; it is all furround- ed with great filver lamps, and has a canopy over it, hanging iron: the crown of the cupola : the ordinary one is changed N 2 Yor 465 464 Ch. S. rence, Lau- Colonna In- fame. M I L A N. for a very rich one, on the feaft-day of the faint. Whenever I came into the church, I always found people at their prayers- before the fhrine of the faint ; and I obferv'd upon the wire- work, which covers the opening, feveral fmall pieces of money thrown there by the devotees ; which I was told is their offering towards fupplying the lamps with oil. The windows of the church are mod of them of ftrain'd glafs, like thofe of King's College chapel in Cambridge. This church is not incrufted, or cafed, as the moft ufual way is, but built with folid marble ; except that there is fome brick-work in the middle of the very thickeft walls, as we faw in feveral of the unfinifhed parts, when we were going up to the top of the church; but there too the marble was of a very confiderable thicknefs and ftrength. By I know not what fort of computation they reckon that the ex- pence of the fabrick amounts to two Bajocs, that is, about a penny farthing Englifh per ounce. I have been the more particular in my account of this church, becaufe it is fo much talk'd of, and from which I had fuch ex- pectations; fuch as were indeed baulk'd in fome refpects ; bur, at leaft anfwer'd, if not exceeded in others. The meafures of it are Teen in the prints. The church of S. Laurence is a fine ftru&ure, not large, of an octagonal figure. Juft before it ftands a row of fixteen noble antique pillars, Corinthian, fluted. I could not be certainly in- formed what they are the remains of; nor does father Mont- faucon, who mentions them in his Italian Diary, fay anything to that matter. At one end of them is an antique infcription, but it gives no light as to the ftru&ure of thefe pillars ; unlefs (poffibly) a guefs about what time they were erected : but that is very uncertain, for the infcription might very likely be brought thither from fome other place. The infcription is to Lucius Aurelius Verus ; it contains nothing more than his titles, and genealogy as far as Nerva. I tranfcrib'd it, but finding it pub- hfli'd by Montfaucon, I omit it here. Near this is the Colonna Infame, a pillar erected in the place where flood the fhop of a barber-furgeon, who in the time of a; plague, with other confpirators, deftroyed many people with poifonous ointments. It is no more than a plain Tufcan pillar erected on a pedeftal, with a. ball on the top of the pillar ; on 2, one MILAN. 465 one fide of the pillar is cut COLONNA INFAME. There is an infcription inferted in a wall juft by it, fetting forth the crime and punifhment of the conlpirators. The infcription is pub- lifh'd by Mr. Addiibn. The church of S. Paul has a rich marble front, adorned with Ch. s. Paul. two orders of architecture; the firft Doric, the fecond Corin- thian ; which is. an unufual traniition : there is no frieze in the fecond order ; the dentelle, or denticuli, are immediately above the architrave. In the church of S. Euftergio they fhew the tomb where what s - Euftciglo: they call the three kings, the Magi, who came to worfhip our Saviour, they fay, once lay; with the ftar in relievo on its co- ver : and at the fame time bewail their being tranfported to Co- logne by Federico Barbaroffa, the Innumano Federico (as they call him) when he laid wafte their city with fire and fword. In the fame church they ihew the chapel and fepulchre of S. Peter Martyr, with fome of S. Tho. Aquinas's poetry upon him, when he vifited his tomb. Praco, lucerna, pugil, Chrijii, populi, fideique Hicjilet, hie tegitur, jacet hie maSlatus inique. The monkifh conceit in thefe lines requires fomewhat of a fuitable turn in the tranflation. The voice, the light, the cavalier, Of Chrift, men, and faith Roman, Is dumb, is out, is lying here, Butcher'd as e'er was no man. The occafion and manner of his death were mention'd, when I' fpoke of the fine picture of Titian.at Venice, which reprefents it. In the church of S. Nazaro I obferv'd an epitaph which is S. Nazaro,. upon the tomb of Trivulcio, a brave and very adive general; but, to one that knew nothing of his character, would feem to have an air of ridicule upon his being reftlefs and troublefome ; and it is not impofiible but fomething of that fort might be intended by the perfon who wrote it; fince Trivulcio was a Mi'lanefe, and, af- ter having been banifh'd from Milan, ferv'd the French king, and was- 4 66 MILAN. •was by him made governor of Milan ; and therefore the more aftive he was, might poffibly be fo much the more troublefome io the people of Milan, and hated by them. The epitaph is as follows : JO. JACOBVS MAGNVS TRIVLTIVS ANTONII FILIVS QVI NVNQVAM QVIEVIT OV1ESCIT. TACE! " The great Jo. Jac. Trivultius, fon of Antonius, " Who never relied before, is now at reft. Hufh ! r- „, c a The convent of S. Ambrofe is large and fine ; it has two t.onv.b. Am- . . r , uis tumidum guttur miratur in Alplbus ?- Who at fwol'n throats would wonder in the Alps ? I enquired whether they were painful ; he faid they gave no pain, but only an uneafinefs occafioned by the weight of thofe which were large and heavy ; and that they hinder the free breathing, in going up a hill, or ufing any extraordinary exer- cife. I aiked, If there were a numbnefs in thofe parts ? He faid, No; but that there was the fame fenfibility and feeling in that part, notwithftanding the fwelling, as when it is not fwell'd at all. We fee as many of them in Milan, as in the towns nearer the Alps; not that the natives are fo fubjecT: to them, but great numbers of people come thither out of other towns, and the adjacent country. A countryman ufed to come fome- times on market-days to the Three Kings there, who had a gofcia vaftly large. Brefcia is faid to have in it a hundred thoufand fouls; forty thoufand men that, in cafe of extremity, might be able to bear arms. In Bergamo, not above half fo many; tho' the diffe- rence in bignefs of each place (including the fuburbs of Ber- gamo) be nothing fo great as the difference in the numbers. The reafon given for this is, that in Bergamo the meaner fort live hardly, upon pitlknta, a coarfe fort of grain, mixed with water, with the addition fometimes of fome favoury oil ; fo that many leave that place to go to Milan, and other places ; which they do not who live in Brefcia. But all this was told me by a Brefcian. In Bergamo I might poflibly have heard another ftory; for my friend expreffed himfelf in fuch a man- ner as I thought plainly difcovered fome emulation between the Bergamotes and the Brefcians. In the old dome at Brefcia are two fine flatues of Alexander Vittoria : there is a new dome building, which they have been many years at work upon, and which will be a fine one when finifn-d. I« VERONA. In the church of S. Aphra there is a chapel furniilied with relicks of S. Judith and S. Juftina : it has a lbrt of window to it, where, in (lead of glafs, there is an iron plate, with holes in it ; thro' fome of which, at certain rtations, you fee fome glimpfes of light ; which they would have you believe to be miraculous, affirming, that there is no natural caufe of light in the place; but it is a fufpicious fign, that no-body is admitted to go in : fuch as have been fo hardy as to venture, have al- ways died (they fay) before the year's end. In the fecond poll from Brefcia, we paffied thro' Donardo, a little walled town, and foon after that, thro' Defenzano, a fair and pleafant town by the fide of the great Lago di Guarda, the Benacus of the antients. This lake abounds with an excellent fiuh they call carpione, in look and tafte much like a trout, not carp, as fome have written. We coafted along this lake, tho not always very near it, for about eight miles, to Pefchiera, a fortified city. Not far from thence we palled by ferry over the Mincio, which runs out of the lake, to Mantua, and fo into the Po. The ferry-man's houfe ftands on ports in the middle of the river, for equal convenience of hearing people that call on either fide. We obferved a great difference as to the forwardnefs of the vines between Bergamo and Brefcia, and of thofe between Bre- fcia and Verona ; the former were a great deal the forwarder. 481. V E R O N A. TT is five ports and a half from- Brefcia to Verona. The moff ■*• noted antiquity of this city is its amphitheatre, whofe infide is the moft intire of any now in being. The Venetians have reftored fuch of the feats as were ruinated, to the condi- tion they were antiently in ; and continue to keep them in re- pair : on the outfide there went round feveral porticoes, ore. over another, and above them another order of work, a fort of Attic, wherein were arches for the windows over the feveral arches of the porticoes, to give light into the amphitheatre, above the feats which rofe as high as the bottom of that Attic ; for when the amphitheatre had its canvafs covering ftretched over 482 V E R O N A. -over it, windows on the fides were neceflary. The outfide •fhcll, or outermoft circle of pilafters and arches, is all deftroy- ed, except a little at one end, which contains the fpace of four windows or arches in breadth ; but by thefe remains one may form a perfect idea of the whole outfide fhell of the amphi- theatre. The next circular row of arches and pilafters, which, with thofe in the outer fhell, formed the outmoft porticoes or corridores round the amphitheatre, one over another, are ftill remaining ; there are two heights of them. The fteps, or feats, which go quite round the area, are forty-four in number, now vifible above ground, as I counted them, tho' fome have mention'd them to be but forty-two. They there fay, that fome more are buried within the ground ; but I cannot eafily believe it ; for the greateft height of any of the fteps, above that next below it, is not quite eighteen inches, and that which is now the loweft of thofe that are vifible is two foot and a half above the ground ; and therefore I judge it to be the loweft of all, and that its height was much more than what we now fee of it, and that the reft is now buried within the ground; for when the am- phitheatre was made ufe of, the bottom ftep, or podium, on which the loweft rank of fpectators fet their feet, muft have been at a far greater height above the arena, than the other fteps or feats were one above another, that thofe that fate on the loweft feat might be out of the reach of the wild beafts that were put to fight there. I would have had the fellow that attended us to have dug away fome of the earth, to try how it was within the ground, but he told me he durft not, nor would the promife of a good gratuity induce him to venture. I meafured feveral of the fteps, and found the height of them from fifteen to feven- teen inches; and the depth of the feat from two foot three to two foot fix inches : this difference of two or three inches in the heights of the upper fteps might poflibly be accidental; but that the height of the loweft, as it appears even above the ground, fliould exceed the height of any of the reft, a whole foot and more, muft have been with defign. In fome particular places the fteps or degrees are halved, for the eafier defcending or afcending between the lower and higher ranks of fteps or feats; and therefore thofe halved fteps are indeed moft pro- perly to be called fteps, the reft were properly feats. This I amphi- ^ 4 8 3- 38 {Z4 / Z&v *i>td/uM 4/.* tZ/n/z/u^/i&a/w. at ^^y^^ok .^V/Avy. 483. 1 'P/an tf: 4.85. $a/2 a " d d ° fe t0 the river 5°3 C O B L E N T Z. £OBLENTZ is very pleafantly fituated, in an angle where fll! he Rh '" e * nd M ° fd, f meet : -nd is therefore called C on ! fluentia, or Confluentes, a Conftuxu duorum Fluminum. Over againft Coblentz, on the other fide of the Rhine, is a ftrongcaftle, on a h,gh craggy fituation, called Ebrenbreftein * * OrEW inere is a palace of the archbifhop of Triers at the botmm J- ftdn; in de on J S, ft e°^ e ft ° f - the ? hine " About Bon a n: h tL^ U nt y f ^f2k on the fides of he river be gan to grow flat, it having been hilly and mountainous for a confiderable time before. COLOGNE. ^T Cologne the women go veiled, as in Italy; there is a far off? pi , a .Tr [ ° rfqUar , e] inthis <%> and akffer one not far off it, which he, in refpeft f one another, much in the manner as the Piazza Navona, and Campo di Fiore at Rome ble' Jtx * & i C ha ? V6ry **** r ° 0fs « fo that the ga- ble-ends [or pediments] make a very fharp angle at the top. The Hope of thcle gable-ends, inftead of being* one continued line is formed into fteps , upon each of which is placed a piS nacle or banner, as r, prefented m the following cut, and has a tawdry trifling appearance. 6 The 5°4 COLOGNE. The Dome, what is done of it, is fine in the Gothick way, in the manner of that at Milan, but is not half finifhed, tho' of an old foundation. The canons there are all princes or counts. The bodies of the three kings [already mentioned] removed hither from Milan, are kept with great veneration : a canon is always prefent at the (hewing them. Prince Naffau prefided when we were there. The names they give them are Gafpar, Melchior, and Balthazzar, and thefe names are frequent amon^ the people of that neighbourhood. There are great numbers of juniper-trees hereabouts, and the Genevre, or (as we call it) Geneva or Gin, which is a compound fpirit from the juniper-berries, is here to be had in the DUSSELDORP. NIMEGUEN. the -greateft perfection , the Cologne Genevre being generally efteemed the mod excellent. 505 At Dusseldorp there is an equeftral ftatue of the elector DuflekW Palatine in the piazza. Kayserswaert, two hours from DuiTeldorp, is a oafs. Kayftrfwaert. This place was bombarded by the allies in 170^. There is an ifland, not far off, in the Rhine, which they upon that occa- fion poffeffed themfelves of. The place is fubjeci to the eleftor of Cologne. Roerwort, at the mouth of the Roer, is another pafs : Roerwon this is fubjed to the king of Pruffia. *°erwoit. Shenkinshans, a little ifland in the Rhine, was the firft Stokinfca^ ground in Gelderland we touched upon. There is a toll there of a fol and a half per head. By reafon of contrary winds, our boat could not come on, fo we left it, and walked three miles to N.meguen , and though the fun fhone, and it was then the tenth of June, N. S. yet the wind was fo cold, that we thought fit to wear our cloaks all the way, and found them very comfortable. NIMEGUEN. TyE came to Nimeguen by a ferry acrofs the Wahl, which A q u* a , bra ^! 1 °i J^ Rhine ' and P art * fem it at the Fort de Schenck The firft ftreets of this city we came into, have a considerable akent from the river : in the middle of the town V a fpac.ousiquare, with handfome buildings about it. The Calvimits here have organs in their church ; no altar or communion-table is continually kept there ; but they brin? one in when they have occafion to ufe it. The having of or" gans we afterwards found to be general in the churches of Hol- land. We afterwards paffed by Loveftein, or Lovenftein, a confinement for the ftate-prifoners, juft at the mouth of the Dor: 5 o6 DOR T. ROTTERDAM. Dort, Dort, or Dordrecht, famous for the fynod there in 1618, was the firft city of Holland we came into ; it is pleafant and very clean, as indeed all the cities in Holland are. One would think they were little dealers here in roaft-meat : we were to have a few pidgeons roafted at our inn ; they had never a fpit in the houfe j and after a long fearch they could find no better a utenlil to ferve for one than a piece of a pitch'd rope : I think fome body's fword at lait acled its part as well as Hudibras's dagger. I am now come to a country fo near our own, and fo well known to thofe of our nation, that I fhall detain the reader with only a very few curfory obfervations. ROTTERDAM. TXTHAT ftay we made in Holland was chiefly at Rotterdam, * ' where, inflead of idle abbes fauntering about the ftreets, (a fight we had been pretty much us'd to) every thing that had life was now bufy ; all were at work ; not only men, women, and children, but dogs and goats j for thefe I obferv'd drawing burdens on little carriages along the ftreets : for the Dutch, together with their induftry, flievv themfelves to have learnt the art of making their heads fave their hands, as is feen in their mills for fawing of timber and for other purpofes, whereby a great deal of manual labour as well as expence is fav'd, in com- parifon to what is employ'd in other places. And, as when a man has got a thing with difficulty, we fay he has got it out of thejire, fo, on the other hand, they have in the literal fenfe got their territory out of the water, and with art and induftry main- tain their pofleffion of it. The indefatigable patience of this people is a good deal feen in the works of their painters, who, if they want the graceful defign of the Italians, make the beft amends they can in the utmoft height of finishing, in which they have outdone all the world, and indeed performed mira- cles ; as fully appears by the great numbers of their pieces that are in England, as well as in thofe abroad. How ROTTERDAM. How numerous the men of wit may be among them, I know not; but they have given a considerable inftance of the value and efteem they have for fuch as are fo, in the copper ftatue they have erected of Erafmus in his native city : it is a whole- length figure, on a pedeftal of marble, with a book in his hand, in the action of turning over the leaf. There are four infcriptions under this ftatue ; one is, DESIDERIO ERASMO, MAGNO SCIENTIARVM ATQVE LITE- RATVRAE POLITIORIS ' VINDICI ET INSTAVRATORI VIRO SAECVLI SVI PRiMARIO, CIVI OMNIVM PRAESTANTISSIMO, AC NOMINIS IMMORTALITATEM SCRIPTIS AEVITERNIS JVRE CONSECVTO, S. P. Q. ROTERODAMVS NE QVOD TAN- TiS APVD SE SVOSQVE POSTERIS VIRTVTIBVS PRAEMIVM DEESSET, STATVAM HANC EX AERE PVBLICO ERIGENDAM CVRAVERVNT. " To Defiderius Erafmus, the Great Patron and Reftorer of " polite Literature, a man the raoft eminent of his age, the " beft of Citizens, one who by his never-dying Writings has " juftly procured Immortality to his Name; the Senate and " People of Rotterdam, that a Reward of fo great Virtues " might ever fubfift among them and their Posterity, have " caufed this ftatue to be erected at the publick Coft." On another fide the pedeftal are the following lines, which I believe will hardly be thought in any meafure equal to the fubject : Barbaria takmfe debellator Erafmus, Maxima laus Batavi nominis, ore tulit. Reddidit en fat is ars obluBata ftnijlris De tanto fpolium naSla quod urna viro ejl, Ingenii ccclejie jubar, majufaue caduco "Tempore qui reddat folus Erafmus erit. In Englifh thus ; S°7 Here ftands Erafmus, who did high advance The Belgic name, and beat down ignorance. Vol. II. T See 508 ROTTERDAM. See Art, here ftriving with the Fates unkind, Shews the great fpoil, which in the grave's confin'd. But would you his immortal wifdom fhow ? That's what Erafmus' felf alone can do. On the other two fides are infcriptions in Dutch. On the front of a little houfe not far off the ftatue, where they fay he was born, are thefe lines : JEdibus his ortus, mundum decoravit Erafmus, Artibus ingenuis, religione, Jide. FataJis feries nobis invidit Erafmum, At defiderhim tollere non potuit. defiderium with a little d, as aiming at a concealment of the * For had it pun *; which yet muft be underftood, or the joke's all fpoiled. been with a The p un w h; cn concludes this epigram, makes a thorow tran- capital, the n • r • • aliufion tohis Nation or it impracticable: and the Englifh reader may take name had m y WO rd for it, that he fuffers nothing by the lofs. evident. ^ n the great church of Rotterdam is a monument erected by a lady of that place to an Englifh youth who died in her houfe; and in the infcription there is this paffage, ----- ______ q U fi exemplum Jiatuk in fe illuftre quam JanBiJjim} fcedus inter Anglos Batavofque colat Belgia, neqite minus privatis beneficiis &? benevokntid quamfociis armis certet objignare. - - - __..___<< whereby the refolved to render herielf an illuf- " trious example, fhewing after how facred a manner Holland " obferves the league between the Englifh. and the Dutch ; " which they endeavour to ratify, not lefs by private good of- " fices, than by their confederate arms." There is fine brafs-work in this church, feparating the nave from what was antiehtly the choir ; there they now catechife and marry. There is a large organ in this church, with another fmaller one. The Englifh church in this city is a very neat and pleafant ilrudture : I obferved an appearance of greater devotion here, and in the Englifh chapel at Leghorn, than what is generally ieen in our churches in England ; which fee'med to me as if 6 their AMSTERDAM, their zeal were actuated and invigorated by a fort of Antiperi- ftafis, of people zealous in a different way unrounding them. The fronts of the houfes in Rotterdam, and other towns'of Holland, are built inclining : when I fir ft obferved them fo I thought it was by accident, thro' fome fettling of the founda- tion, many of them being built on piles : but finding them ge- nerally fo, I was told, upon enquiry, that they were defignedly lo built, the better to fhed off the wet, that it might not run down to the foundation. 5°9 A M S E R D A M. Was but one day in Amrterdam, fo could not fee many par- ticular things; but by its general appearance it feemed to me in fome refpefls the fineft city I have feen. If there be no very extraordinary publick buildings except the Stadt-houfe, (which is indeed a noble ftrudture) or many private ones of iucn fupenor rank as in other places would be called palaces, the uniform beauty of the city in general is very great. The principal ftreets, which are the Kayfar's Graft, the Beer's Graft, and the Prince's Graft, are indeed furpriziiHy fine } they are called near two miles long, much upon a parallel (as I remember) to one another, and of a great breadth. The houfes on each fide are high, and very well built ; a large ca- nal going all along the middle of the ftreet, with handfome bridges over it at fuitable diftances. On each fide of the canal between it and the houfes, is a ipacious walk adorned with fhady trees. This manner of difpolition is common to moft of the cities and towns in Holland, but the vaft length and Ipaciouineis of thefe is what gives them a preference to all others. The beauty of the Stadt-houfe feemed to me greater within Sudthoufe. than without. It has on the outfide a double row of pilafters (one above another) both of the Corinthian order: or' whether the upper may not be Compofite, I cannot be pofitive! The windows are all plain; the Hope of the roof is all feen which gwes it a naked look, and feems to want a balufirade, or an Attic, to intercept the fight of (at lead) fome part of it. T 2 There 5!° AMSTERDAM. There is a great Atlas t.To on the There is no great gate ; but they give this reafon for it, that in cafe of a popular rifing, it fhould not be fo eafily furprized. There is a portico below at the entrance, with four Caria- tides in good attitudes ; alfo a bas-relief of Solomon's Wifdom, and two others. There are pilafters and other ornaments, all of white marble. The great hall above is finely adorned, having a reprefenta- tion of Juftice at one end, and of Peace at the other, with feveral figures about each, all of marble ; there is a double row of Corinthian pilafters fluted, with feftoons, &c. and a great Atlas of marble placed aloft at the upper end. On the floor are hemifpheres, defcribed by lines of brafs inferted in the marble outfide, with pavement. A portico or gallery goes round the hall, upon the other figures f ame fl oor j n w hi cn are bas-reliefs, with feftoons, &c. Out of copper. t kj g t [ iere g doors into the feveral chambers. The hall and portico are all of white marble. The cieling of the ball is painted, and there are feveral paintings in the portico and chambers, fome by Mynheer Flinck, father to the late famous virtuofo in Rotterdam. There is a pidure in one of the rooms, of M. Curius rejeding the gold of the Samnites, and under it is written Markus Kurius burghomafier van Rome, [of Rome.] They (hewed us a chamber where people are married in pre- fence of the magiftrates ; that is, thole that are not of the com- munion of that country, and whom therefore their priefts can- not marry, and fo they are married before the magiftrate. Another chamber there is, out of which criminals, condemn- ed to die, are conducted through a balcony to a fcaffold erected before it, upon which they are executed. In the marble floor are fwords inlaid, and other devices relating to the execution of iufiice, and the power of the magiftrate. Higher yet, in another (lory, they (hewed us an armory, where they told us were arms for eighty thoufand men ; they did not make the appearance of fuch a number; they were indeed not feen to advantage, being all cup-boarded up. There are fome old fuits of armour, placed in ranks in an open chamber, but no- thing extraordinary. There are chimes in this Stadt-houfe which are much cele- brated ; there are thirty-fix bells and fixty hammers. Tunes go upon them at every hour, and every quarter ; thefe are per- 5 formed AMSTERDAM. S1I formed for the moil part by clock-work ; but there are iome certain times, at which a man plays tunes upon them by the help of keys,. as on a harpfichord. There is a fine view of the city and of the harbour from the higheft part of this building: the fhips do as it were embrace one fide of the town, and wind-mills the other. Under the Stadt-houfe are the prifons, out of which they look thro' ftrong double grates into a paffage that goes round ; on the outfide of which is a ftrong wall ; beyond that again is the general out-wall of the building. In the torture-room, they fhewed the ropes for flretchino-, vaft weights to hang at the toes, and machines for fqueezing. There is a whipping-poft in the fame room, to which the cri- minal's hands are tied, with an iron hoc >x > for his middle, and others for the ancles. There is a leather to defend women's breafts. There are tables, 'and other conveniencies, at a little diftance, in the fame room, where they write the confeffions. Cloie by, there is a room to ftrip thofe who are to be whipped, whence come out the men only in their breeches, and the ' women only in their petticoats and breaft-piece. The whole is a vaft pile of building ; and it is hard to conceive how it was poffible to make a foundation here to fupport it, where the ground is not firm enough to bear an ordinary dwelling- houfe, without driving in piles to fet it upon. Mr. Evelyn, in his difcourfe of foreft-trees, ch. xxii. tells us, that there are no fewer than thirteen thoufand fix hundred and fifty-nine great mails of fir driven into the ground, to make the' foun- dation of this Stadt-houfe. The Spin -houfe, which ftrangers are generally taken to fee, Spin- houfo is a handfome building. A little before we were there, fuch enormities had been committed in the mufick-houfes, that they were put down ; and at the fame time a draught was made, from amongft thofe that frequented them, to be difpofed of in the Spin-houfe. There the iaffes fate very orderly at work : the moft heinous offenders feparated from the others : thofe in the inner apartments the governor told us were fuch as me- rited death rather than that confinement only; and that fome of them were likely to remain there during life. Many of the faces were much out of repair, nofes fallen, &c. At our coming- :i 2 L E Y D E N. coming away, the governor ftruck up a pfalm, the laiTes laid down their work, and joined very demurely. They feemed to be under good government, and much in awe. The Exchange of Amfterdam is much cried up there, but it is inferior in magnificence to the Royal Exchange of London i it is of an oblong figure ; and enclofed with a portico, as our's is. I faw feveral coach-bodies there drawn upon fledges ; they do not uie wheels, to avoid fhaking the foundations of the houfes, which are built upon piles ; and thefe fo numerous, and fixed there at fo exceffive a charge, that Mr. Evelyn fays, fome report that the foundations of their houfes cofl as much as what is erected, on them. Y D E N. Aratomy- fchool. Burgh. T EYDEN is a fine and very pleafant city ; it has notfo great ■*— ' a hurry of bufmefs as the two laft mentioned have. The fame of its univerfity, particularly for the fludy of phy- fick, is known to every body; and the learned profelibr, Dr, Eoerhaave, is a great ornament to it. Their pbyiic-garden is not large, but is ccpioufly furnilhed with curious plants. In the anatomy- fchool are great variety of fkeletons, of men, women, and animals. Some urns, lamps, &c. common elfe- where. They (hew there what they call a Remora, and other natural curiofities, of which they give a primed catalogue. The Remora, if this be one, is a fmall round fifli, with a tail and head fomewhat like a bird, the fkin prettily marked in hexagons. It is laid to flop (hips in their courfe, from whence it has its name. What they call the Burgh is a low round tower, or the re- mains of a higher; it has now no covering, and is faid to be an antient Roman fab rick : but it feems much more modern, if the brick-work which is formed into arches round the infide of it, be of equal date with the reft. A labyrinth of hedges now fills the area, with an arbor in the centre : they told me it was formerly a guard to a pafs of the Rhine, which then run between that and the town. It ftands on a little afcent. Monfieur HAGUE. Monfieurde laCour, a gentleman of Leyden, a very curious and obliging perfon, has a fine collection of pictures, moll of them of the Dutch mailers, and fome flower-pieces done bv a female artifl [I have forgot her name] which are exceeding aood Befide the garden adjoining to his houfe, he has a large one, at fome diflance, in which he is particularly curious, for raifing the bell of all forts of fruits. He had grapes ripe in May ; when we were there in June, they were all gone, and the leaves brown as in autumn, The heat of the ftoves, which accelerate them is regulated by thermometers. He raifes the ananas, and fe- veral other cunofities. He treated us with excellent wine ; nor was his water alefs compliment ; the fountains playing all the while in a large baton, which is not very frequent in the Dutch gardens ; for, the country being flat, the water is all railed by force; not without a confiderable expence. S*3 H U E. ^ H E Hague is the genteelefl town in Holland ; this is the - place for thofe who have eilates to fpend, as the great trading ones are the places to get them in. It is called only a village, but it is a mod beautiful one ; and the fe vera] ways that lead to it, whether by land or water, are as pleafant as can be imagined. The houfe of the princes of Orange, called the Maifon du Bois, becaufe it Hands in a wood, is a little way out of town, and is a mod pleafing retirement; it has a great deal of painting, and fome very good. From the Hague to Scheveling, a little fifher-town by the fea-fide, the road, about a mile in length, is perfectly like a walk in a garden, railed in the middle, and finely planted on each fide; and in the midway is a circular area, very prettily adorned. ] From Rotterdam, we went out one day to Tergauw, a pretty Tergauw, town, and well peopled ; the moll remarkable .thing there is the great church, famous for its windows of flained o-] a fs They are one and thirty in number ; the lubjeds painted in them are hiftoncs, fcriptural and others ; one of them was given by K. Philip and CL Mary of England : the upper part repre- lents 5H T E R G A U W. ROTTERDAM. fents the confecration of Solomon's Temple ; the lower, the Laft Supper. Tire way from Rotterdam thither, which is about twelve miles, is all paved with clinkers*, adorned with trees on each hand (many of them chefnuts), and country feats of the citi- zens of Rotterdam, &c. For variety, we returned by another road, over a narrow high-raifed way, along the fide of the ri- ver Yffel, which we croiTed in a ferry. There are in the United Provinces three towns of refuge, called (as I remember) Yffelftein, Vianen, and Cuilemburg. Thefe were once an afylum to all offenders, as we were told, and are (till fo to fome ; but the mo ft enormous, as murderers, burners of houfes, &c. have now no refuge in them. We paffed in fight of the firft of them in our return from Tergauw to Rotterdam. The criminals in Holland are executed in the great towns, immediately after fentence, without being remanded to prifon, as with us, and in prefence of the magiftrates ; for which pur- pofe fcaffolds are erected, adjoining to the town-houfes, and are generally removed when the execution is over ; but in fome they remain, as at Haarlem, Tergauw, &c. and where they do fo, we were told it is an indication that no perfon was ever known to have fuffered wrongfully in fuch places. If this be really the cafe, it feems a fort of flur upon the others ; therefore I would rather fuppofe they have fome other reafon for it. As •foon as the execution is over, the bodies are carried out of town, and expofed near the publick road in fuch manner as they were executed, whether on gallows or wheel, &c. and there they remain till they rot away: and it is the fame in Germany. But I have been told, that thofe that are beheaded are buried, without being expofed. The women are not hanged, but ftrangled : the mannqr is thus; the woman is placed with her back up to a port, and a cord is put about her neck, and drawn through a hole in the poft, and there twifted with a ftick, till (he is ftrangled, and (he is then left. We faw feveral of them fo expofed,"hard byDelpht. I have been told that it was once * A fort of narrow bricks which are made on purpofe for paving, and are often .brought into England for that purpofe, and called here Flanders bricks. the ROTTERDAM. H E L V O E T-S LU Y S. the hard lot of a poor young fellow there to be obliged to ftran- gle his own fweetheart : his love, and concern, and reluctancy, lb diffracted and enfeebled him, that he was much unable to perform his office, and fo put the poor creature to twice the pain that one who had lov'd her lefs would have done. When we were at Rotterdam we went to vifit that ingenious and moil indefatigably curious artift, Mr. Vanderwerf, [fince dead] and law feveral -of his performances : as his chief per- fection was in the finishing part, he would not let us fee any thing of his work but what was finifhed. Cardinal Ottoboni had got one of his pieces at Rome, and ■made Signor Trevifani do one of the fame fize for a trial in that elaborate way, and they were both expofed together amon°- other pictures at a publick feaft of one of" the convents *. It was no difgrace to Milton not to have rhymed like Dryden ; and he knew better things than to have entered upon fuch a trial. We faw as many of Mr. Flinck's admirable collection of •drawings as could be well Teen in about three hours. He was a very obliging gentleman j his collection upon his dc- ceafe was bought by the duke of Devonshire. We were detained fome time in Rotterdam by contrary winds, and fet fail at laft with the wind atS.W. in theWilliam and Mary yatcht, Capt. Mofes commander. We left Rotterdam July 5, N. S. about ten in the morning, and could not reach Helvoet- Sluys till the eighth about four in the morning : there we were detained by winds directly contrary till the thirteenth, when about four in the morning we fet fail again with the wind S. W. in hopes of a favourable change with the new moon ; but it continued frill fo violently contrary, that we came not to Grays till the fixteenth, and in the night to Greenwich, where we left the yatcht on the feventeenth, and arrived in the boat at the Tower of London, about ten o'clock in the morning. -Our captain told us, that in forty years that he had ufed the fea, he did not remember to have had fuch a fummer's voyage. • It is a cuftom at the feails of the convents or other focieties, to have fine rich hangings, and fine piaures, which their friends lend 'em upon the occafion, hung up an the moll confpicucus places of their convent, &c. Vox. 14, U A 5^5 5 i6 L O N D O K. As we were drawing near home, I was reading in the yatcht Guarini's Pajior Fido, and coming to that fpeech of Carino in the beginning of the fifth a<£t, where he fets forth the pleaf- ing fentiments he had upon his arrival in his native country ; I found myfelf fo much interefied in it, that I attempted part of it in Englifh, with the change only of Britain for Arcadia. O, da me piu d' ogri altra amata e car a, Piu d' ogn altra gentil terra d! Arcadia, Che col pie tocco, e con la mente inchino ; Se ne confini tuoi, madre gentile, FopJ' io giunto a chiufi ocehi, anco f havrei Troppo ben conofciuto, coji toflo M' e corfo per le vene un certo amico Confentimento incognito e latente, Sipien di tenerezza, e di diletto, Che l' hafentito in ogni jibra ilfangue. Hail faireft Britain ! whom I prize above All other lands, and whom I deareft love; Hail fweeteft native ifle ! whofe much-lov'd mores. My ravifh'd feet now touch, and foul adores : Had I been blind-fold on thy confines thrown, Thee, thee, dear foil, by inftinft I had known. Such a foft, friendly, fecret fympathy^ Strait ran thro' ev'ry vein, and witneis'd thee. A more than filial fondnefs feiz'd my breaftV And ev'ry fibre my delight confefs'd. F N A GENERAL ALPHABETICAL INDEX TO BOTH V O h V M E S. A BBEVILLE, odd drefs there,, P a g e l Woollen manuf allure there, Abbey of St. Benys, 4 Abraxas, magical Jlanes, fame ac- count of them, 415 Academy of St. Luke at Rotne, 233 French, 234 Academies at t lorence, 428,429 Academical performance in church, 450 Abide [river] head of it, 496 Advocates in Paris, their trains borne up, 6 ./Enigmatical epitaph near Bologna, 447 /Eolian hills, 128 S. Agatha [town] 146 Aglibolus and Ma'achbrlus, repre- senting fun and moon. 332 Agrippina, her fuppofed tomb, 184 AIX, a parliament town, 1 4 Alb an lake, outlet of it, 370 Albani [Card.] his colletlion of fadptures, 312 Albano, 370 Albero d'Oro, a fiory concern- ing it, 43 Aldrovandus's manufcripts, 187 volumes, 442 Alexander VII. copper Jlatue of htm at Ravenna, in Alcidus, Mount, 370 Alps, 493, & leq. -High eft of cent of them in the 'Ti- rol-road, 496 Altar of St. Pafchal, 247 Altars, moft.rich a;;d fine, 224 Altieri palace, 316 Amphitheatre, at Capua, 146 at Minturitif, 145 • U 2 Am. The GENERAL INDEX. Amphitheatre. Small remains of one at Padua. g6 at Rimini, 118 at Rome, 350 at Verona,. 48 1 AMSTERDAM, 509 Coach -bodies drawn- on fledges, 512 Exchange, ib. Stadt-houfe,, '■ 509 Piles, number of them under the Stadt-houfe, 511 Spin-houfe, ib. Streets furprizingly fine, 509 Annunciata [church] at Genoa, 25 [Monaftery] at Naples, 1 54 Antekor, his ftlppofed remains and' tomb at Padua, 42 A n t 1 a n 1 , at Bologna, what, 449 Antiquities at Ancona, 1 20 at Capua, 1 ±fi at Lions, 10 at Milan. 464 at Mola [Fortnue] 138 ■at Minturna, 145 about Naples, 1 74, & feq. at Nartii, 1.30 a/ Orange, 13, j 20 a/ Pr/a, 388 5/ Riimni, 1 1 8 <;/ Rome, a noble feme of them, 257 0/ Spole-to, 126 a/ Verona, 481,484 1 AVIGNON, fine walls there, *-+ Not ejieemed a part of France, ib. AUXERRE, excellent wine there, 7 BAjamonte Tiepolo, his confpi- rag-,- 58 Baim,. jgo Caftle built there in. the time of Charles V. jSj. Several antique remains in its neighbourhood, ib. & 1 85 Baptiftery of Conftantim, 2 1 8 at Pi fa,. 382 at Piftoia, 392 at Florence, 396 Barberigo [Pal.] at Venice, fine paintings there, jS Barberini palaie, 289 villa, qj i Barigello, captain of the Shirri, a band of men who arreft crimi- nals, I00 Barnabotes, a name given to the poor noble Venetians, and w/jy, 91 BafiliciE, what, 199 Bafilifk, 471,48s Bafbdes, country-houfes about Mar- feilles, 1A 116 at Fi~ 497 500 A L INDEX. Bavaria [confines of] 49.3 Bauli, ,g 5 Bears and wolves infefting roads, Beauvais, two fine churches bulls by the Englifh, Choir ejieemed the left in France, ib. Vineyards thereabouts, 4 Beggars moft importunate at LoreHo, Be ggmg, an odd way of it, Benedictines, convent of. efa in Tirol, Another near Donawert, Bentivoclio family, anniversary of their expulfwn from Bologna, and upon what account, 45 1 Bergamo, 4?8 Bevelacq.ua [Pal] at Ferrara, 105 Bianchi [Sign;:] at Venice, fine paintings there, yq Bianchi [Sign?:] at Florence, gal- lery-keeper to the Cr. Duke, 30 8 Bill of health, vide Fede. Bifhops attending as porters at the doors of the pope's apartments, 276 Blefling, Greek and Latin, manner of doing it, j g 2 Blefling of houfes, g of holy water, ib. Bocca della Verita, 253 The common account of it correct- ed by Fabretti, jb. Body preferved 250 years, and nails grow, &c. as pretended, 436 Boe'tius, his tomb and infription, 477 afaintatPavia, ib. has done a miracle, ib BOLOGNA, its Situation, 434 PJch grounds about it, ib. BO-' The GENERAL, INDEX. Capitol, 319 Capo di Bovr, . 356 Caprea [ijland] 155,176 Capua, 146 Ruins of an amphitheatre there, ib. Capua, its antient glory, 147 deftroyed by its tnbn luxury, 148 Car aff a [Palace] at Naples, 258 Head, &c. of a brazen horfe there, and hiftory of it, ib. Cardinals, Englifo, buried at Rome, 240 Cardinals, cavalcade, and hats de- livered to them, 275 Cardinal protester in Rome to all nations, 301 Cardinal de Medici, infcription on his coffin, 42 3 Cardinal legate at Bologna, 449 his appearance in publick, 450 Cerlo [St.] great veneration paid to him at Milan, 460 his early religion, 476 Carmen Amcebagum, 363 Carnaval, Venetian, 86 Bolognefe, 442 CARRARA, rocks of white mar- Me there, 27 Carrara [Francefco] tyrant of Pa- dua, how ufed by the Venetians, 58 Carriages in Lombardy, &c. 32 Carthufians, feme account of this Castello Guelfo, 457 Caftle at Brcfcia, 479 , at Cajeta, 144 at Bai S Chancellor of the apoftolick fee, 281 Chapel of Monte di Pieta, 231 I of Sixties V. audi 1$ of P cuius V. * 200 their convent at Naples, 155 at Rome, 337 at Bologna, 435 at Pavia, 475 Carvings in wood admirable, 443 Cafcade, the great one near Terni defcribed, 127 Castellani and Nicolati, two ,adverfe parties in Venice, go 1 56,43 5, & 43 6 •$ of S. 1'erefa, 226 of S. Lorenzo at Florence, 42 2 of Mich. Angela, 423 Chafteau de Pilate, .13 Chaftity, a prieft remarked as emi- nent for it, 30 Cheftnuts, great woods of them, 22 Bread made of the fruits, ib. Ch 1 a 1 a , a fubtirb of Naples, 174 Chici The GENER Chigi [prince] hereditary governor of the conclave, 194 palace, 296 villa, 339 Children devoted from the womb, dreffed as friars, and why, 45 1 CHIOGGIA, a bifhoprick, has a podefta, fituated fomewhat like Ve- nice, 1 01 La Chiusa, a difficult pafs, 492 Choir at Beauvois efteemed the heft in France, 3 Cryftal veffels curioufly adorned, 413 Christina, 6). of Sweden, her tomb, 2 1 o Chriftopher [St.] a monftrous ftatue of him, 6 Joint of his finger, what a lady faid concerning it, 52 Church [Armenian] 66,253 v. Armenian. • [Englijh] at Rotterdam, 508 the firft Chrijlian one in France, [Greek] 63 v. Greek. Churches at Florence, 393,394 two fine ones at Beauvais built by the Englijh, 3 at Genoa, 24,25 at Lions, 9 at Naples, 1 50, & feq. 461 , & feq. at Padua, 37, & feq. at Rome, vide Rome. at Venice, 50,59,61,72 en fea-coafts, how entituled, 20 Eaftward fituation of churches not obferved in Italy, 126 Cicero, his villa's, 138,365 Cicerones, a jocular term for the under fort of antiquaries, 177 Cinctus Gabinus, 309 Vol. II. A L INDEX. Circumcifion how performed at Ve- nice, 68 Circus Maximus,, 351 Citadel, at Brefcia, 478 at Final, 2 z at Savona, 23 C 1 t t a d 1 n 1 , citizens in Venice, what, 98 Clement XL [Pope] fome account of him, 190 Climate perfectly changed all of a fudden, 14,496 Cloacae at Rome, 360 Clock, famous one at Lions, g at Pavia, 477 Coach- bodies drawn on fledges, 512 COBLENTZ, 503 Cock [St. Peter's] turned into brafs, fo believed by common people, 217 Coglioni [Bartolomeo] general of the Venetians, equeftral ftatue of him, 73 Collections of Curiofi ties, Pictures, &c. In VENICE. At the entrance into the publick li- brary, 60 Pal. Grimani, &c. y6 Senators, Sacredo and Capello, yy Signior Giovanni Baltifta Rota, an advocate, 7 8 Signior Nat ale Bianchi, a merchant, 79 In ROVIGO. At Count Sylveftre's, In CENTO. At Cavalier Chiarelli's, 1 06 In NAPLES. Pal. Carafifa, In ROME. All the palaces and villa's which 1 have taken notice of; for the par- ticulars of which, fee Tit, ROME. X Col- 103 158 The GENERAL INDEX. Collections of Curiofities, &V. Roman College, 312 Card. Albam's, ib. Signior Antonio Borioni, an apo- thecary, 283 In FLORENCE, drawings. Of the great duke's, 4.16 At Caval. Gaburri's, 428 In BOLOGNA. At Sign. Bonfiglioli's, 444 At Sign. Behcet's, ib. In PARMA. The duke's ■paintings, 454 drawings, 456 In MILAN. Ambroftan library, 468 Marq. Cafenedi, 470 Count Forieri, 47 1 Galleries of piclures, 469 College Roman, 3 1 2 Curiofities there, ib. COLOGNE, 503 Squares there, ib. Women go veiled, ib. Dome, 504 Canons there all princes or counts, ib. Bodies of the Magi, ib. 'their names, ib. B eft Genevre fold here, 505 Colonna, palace and gallery, 305 Office of this prince, 307 Colorni, y^ 0/ the duke of Parma, 457 CoLUMNA MlLLIARIA, 320,388 Concha [river] 119 Conclave for the eleition of a pope, 190 Sitting long, how ferved by the guardian or governor, 194 Conclavifts have each their fepctr ate cell, 193 Clofely made up, and' ave- nues to them watched, 194 435 466,472 475 Confraternity for the dead, 472 for criminals at execution, ib. Vide Schools. Confiftory for delivering of hats to new cardinals, 275 Subftance of fpeeches on that occqfion, 276 Don Alex. Albani's remarks on them, 2 77 Confpiracy of Bajamonte Tiepolo, 5.8 Convents magnificent, at Bologna, at Milan, at Naples, at Pavia, Corno [doge's] the pretended ori- gin of it, _ 53 Corona Radiata, 402 Muralis, ib. Coronation of pope, vide Pope. Cote rote wine, 12 Council of Ten at Venice, a terrible magiftracy, 95 Country very fine between Dions and Marfeilles, 1 4 Country gentlemen, Italians have- no notion of fitch, 98 Cou ntry feats, France not fo full of them as England, 8 Country feats about Marfeilles, 14 Country feats in Italy, how differ from ours, 326 CRE1LSHEIMB, 501 Crofs, a huge one dragged- along by a pilgrim, 29,217 Crofs [golden] at Ducca, a fiery about it, 391. Crucifixes, an advantageous fttua- tion of them for a beauti- ful view, 2 5 Speaking ones, ic^i,^j Crucifixion, by Mich. Angela, of which they tell the oldftory, 1 5 5 CUM/E,, The GEN E R CUMjE, very /mail remains of it above ground, 1 8 2 Cupola [great] at St. Peter's at Rome, how adorned, 209 Side cupolas, ib. Cupola, thefirft in Italy, 394 of Padre Pozzo, 224 • of Lanfranc, in ch. of And. in Voile, 226 of Correggio at Parma, 454. Curia Innoce'miana, 348 Cuiiom houfe, the place firft vijited at Rome, and why, 1 3 3 Cybele, how reprefented in fculp- ture, 304 what intended by fitch repre- fentation,. ib. Cyprus {crown of] hoivtfye Vene- tians became pojfeffed of it, 54 D. DAnte, an odd ftory <;^y contended for at Pa- dua and at Venice, 4 o Holy image at Loreto carv'd by St. Luke, 1 2 2 Luxemburg [Palace] 5 : Gallery there, ib. LUZARA, • 01 M. MAchinery in opera's at Ve- nice, 8+ Madonna, Divine addreffcs mads to her, . 19 &w painted along roads in Lcmbardy, 2 Madomia of St. Luke, 51, ■f. j 57,44-7 Grand apparatus at the fee- ing one of them, 447 Magdalen, [St.] place ivherefhe preach' d in Marfeilles, 1 7 Mountains whither foe re- tired, ib. Magi, their pretended tomb, 465 their bodies, where now, 504 /£«r names, ib. A L INDEX. Maine, [River] 501 Malamoco, b pert near Venice, too A pleafmt remark cf an old majter of a Peota belong- ing to that port, ib. Mandrakes, \'c\ MANTUA, its Situation, 34 thinly peopled, 35 how it came to fuffer together with the Cremonefe in Au- guftus's time, 34 Manufacture, woollen, at Abbeville, 2 at Padua, 4? Manufcript of St. "Thomas Aquinas, ejleem'd a precious relick, 152 Manufcript of Otfavius Strada, 'the hiftory of the Roman emperors with their effigies, 270,427 Manufcripts of Aldrovandus 187 Volumes, 442 Marble, artificial, 201 Marble, incrufiation of walls zvith Jt -> 200 Marbles [Farnefe] 255 Marbles of feveral forts taken notice of in this account. Granite, ,q Cipolino, 210 Nero e Bianco de gli Antichi, 219,240 di Porta Santa, 220 Giallo Antico, 231,30; Oriental Granite, 328 Granitella Orientals pediculofa, 231 Porphyry, 234,237,243,268 Black Porphyry, Alabaftro fiorito, Alabaftro Orientate, Verd Antique, Numidian Marble, Greek, 243 ib. 270,313 216,310 243 3 r 5>35 >442 Marbles, The GENERAL INDEX. Marbles, &c. Pavonazza, or Pavonata, 236, Roffo Antico, 2 1 7,334. Mare Mortuum, 184 Marforio, Jialue, why fo called, 321 Marino, a town near Rome, 133 belongs to prince Golonna, 308 Mark. [S/.] his church at Venice, 5° mofi rich in materials, and of curious workmanjhip, ib. Brafs horfes antique over the principal entrance,. 5 1 his treafury, 52 his fchool, 7 1 his body brought to Venice, 7 2 Marlborough [Duke of] Pictures of him at Florence, 401 Statue of him as Mars, 413 Marriage of young women out of hofpitals, 79,154 a ftory concerning one of them, 154 MARSEILLES, itsfituation, 14 its antiquity, 1 7 its arms, what antiently and what now, 15 Hotel de Ville,. its orna- ments, ib. G allies there, 16 Firfi Chriftian church in France at Marfeilles, 1 7 Baftides, country houfes near the city, 1 4 MASSA, and its duke, 27 Maffanello, his head taken in plai- fter, .1 54 Portraits of him, 158,300 Massimi, Pal. 316 MATTHEI,iW. 3OI Villa, 337 Mausoleum, vide Monument. 4 Maximin [St.] bifhop of 'Marfeilles y 26 Meafuring of time, the manner of it in Italy, 2 8 Meafuring of Holy Image at hereto, their virtues, 1 2 1 Meafures, Roman, £sV. 323,326 Memdingen, 501 Mentz, 502 Mercanti, merchants in Venice, &c. what, 9S Meridian'Line [Cajfmi's] an account of it, _ 417 Metal, fwelling in hot weather, and fhrinking in cold, an inflance of it, 419 Meteorological phenomena expreffed in paintings, 44 1 MILAN, its extent, 459 Situation, ib. Rice-grounds, ib. /• ines, how grow, ib. City, how watered, 460 Count Carolledo governor, ib. Archivefcovato, ib. £. Carlo, great veneration paid to him at Milan,, ib. Dome, its ■ ar chit eel, 4.61 Defcription of it, ib. &c. Number offtatues in it, 463 Church of St. Laurence, 464 St. Paul, 465 St. Eufiorgio, ib. St-. Nazaro, ib. St. Sebaftian, 472 St. Angela, 473 Convent, St. Ambrofe, 466 Olivetans, ib. ■S/. Radegunda, 472 Colonna infame, 464 Ambrofian Library, 466 Hofpital, great, 468 Lazaretto, 469 Caflle, ib. MILAN. The G E N E R MIL AN. Guard kept at the gates by the nobility, 469 Galleries of pictures, ib. Cafa Dada, 470 Archinta, ib. Cafenedi, ib. Forieri, 471 Set tola, jb. Spanijh drefs worn by fame at Milan, 47 3 ^/7/rt Simotta, the famous echo there, ib. Mills, floating, 104 MlLTENBERG, 5OI MlSENUM, 184 Mob, mW /£ 7 Nuns, fame decoy'd, fame perfectly forced into profeffv.n, 228 Nun, grown defperate thro' forcible refiraint, 220 An account of a young lady who flood it out againft all methods ufedfor her profeffwr., ib. Nuns, noble, at Venice, 99 Solemnities at the feafts of their fever al convents, 9 9 Their drefs, ib. Nuns Jinging, 47 2 O. OBizzi [Palazzo] near Batta- g'ia, lor Obizzi affifts Ed. III. of England in taking David K. of Scots, 102 is made knight of the garter, &c- ib. Oetingen, 5 o f Onuphrio [St.] hermits of, 2^0 Opera, a fine one at Regio in Lorn- bar dy, at the time of the fair, 30 Opera'j at Venice, machinery in them, inflames of it, S_i Opus reticulatum, what, 132 OXANGE, town and principality, Antiquities there, ib. & 324 Oratorio, at Rome, 362 at Bologna, 44a Orders [religions'] Vide religious orders. Order of the general proceffion, 277 Orders of people in Venice, their fe- ver al dijiintlicns, g 7 Organs hi the churches of the Cal- vinifls in Holland, He. Orioia [St. J a chapel to her in Ve- nice, y 2 firft married by an Engliflj prince, ib, Ossuarium, with infeription, 290 Ossuaria, what, o ? y Ottoeoni [Cardinal'] courteous and generous, ' 281 a grand entertainment rnr.de b him, ib, Ovid'.? tomb, fo called, 359 P. The GENERAL INDEX. P. PADUA, the approach to it, 36 thinly peopled, ib. bow fortified, ib. Amphitheatre, Jmall remains of one ; its Arena, a court before a gentleman's houfe, ib. Churches there, %y, & feq. Church of S. Antonio, for- merly dedicated to B. Virgin, ^ 37 vaftly rich, particularly the chapel of the faint, ib. Church of S. Giujlina beau- tiful; pavement rich, but odly fancied infome parts, ^ 2,9 Expences of it, 40 'Two evangelijis buried in this church, ib. Church of Emeritani. Eiig- lijh, tho' Proteftants, bury there, 4 1 Garden of fnnples, ib. of Papafava, houfe of ar- bors there, ib. of Morcjini, four thoufcnd fprcies in it, ib. Univerfdy, ib. Antenor and Livy, their fup- pofcd remains, 42 Lapis Vituperii, ib. Cloth-manufaMure now there, as there was alfo ancient- h, 43 Mingoni [Dr.] antiquary at Padua, ib. Painting on outfide of houfes. at Genoa, 24 at Padua, 4 2 at Venice, 4-$>75 Palaces in Paris, 5 at Genoa, 24 in Venice, 54, 74, & feq. at Ferrara, 105 at Naples, 150,157,158 at Rome, vide Rome. at Florence, 393,419,424, &feq. at Bologna, 434, 442? & feq. Palazzo, that title not fo much affecled in Milan for the better fort of houfes, as in other cities of Italy, 460 Palavicini, Palace, 295 Pal eot 1, [Marq.~\ his execution in England, what refietlion it oc- cafwned at Bologna, 451 Palmyrean VotLim, 332 Pantalone, the etymology of the word, 85 Pantheon, defcription of it, 2 1 1 , & feq. Paper in windows inftead ofglafs, 9 PARIS, 4 Statues of Fr. kings there, ib. Places [fquares] in Paris, ib. Palaces there, 5 Fountains there, ib. PARMA, view at the approach to- wards it, 45 j famous cupola's there, 454 Theatre, ib. Duke's gallery, ib. Parmezan ckecfe, 458 Parties among the people encouraged, in I 'enice, 9 1 the reafon affigned for it, ib. Pafquinades at eletl'wn of Innocent XII. j 94 Paffion of our Saviour reprefentcd in a lively manner, 473 PAVIA", Carihujians, 475 Univerjity, 4.J6 Col/eg. Borrhomeo, ib. PA- The GENER •PAVIA. Colleg. Ghifieri, ib. Equeftral ftatue, ib. Dome, Spina Santa there, ib. Church of S. Peter, 477 Tombs of Boetius and of St. Auguftine, ib. Clock, a curious one, ib. Covered bridge over Ticino, 478 Stratagem of P avians againft the French, ib. Paul [St.] his churches at Naples, at Rome, A L INDEX. 2 43 Three fountains made by. three leaps of his head •when cut off, ib. Pausilypo [Hill] I74 Grotta cut thro' it, 1 75 Peruque [Stone] 304 PESARO [City] fine fountain, and ftatue of Urban VIJI. r 20 Peter, [St.] his churches in Rome, 204,232,251 his firft landing-place in I- taly, 37 a Peter Martyr, [St.] his tomb and epitaph by S. Tho. Aquinas, 465 Phocians, builders of Marfeilles, 1 8 Phyficians, how efteemed in France and in Italy, g Piacenza, 457 Equeftral Jlatues there, ib. Dome, jb. Piazza Navona, and fine fountain there, 3 g 2 Piazza di S. Marco at Venice, 48 Picture, an odd one at Bologna, TV 436 Pieta [Hofpital] at Venice, 79 at Naples, it; 4. Vol. II. r ^ Pietra Mala, fires there iffuing out of the ground, ,o 2 Pietro [Don] di Toledo. Vide Toledo. Pietro [St.] d' 'Arena, afuburb to Genoa, magnificent palaces there, 2 ~ in Grado, o q PIEVE, a little city, i' y Pilate [Chateau de] T o Piles, under foundations of houfes in Amfterdam, vaftly expen- five, 512 Number of piles under the Stadt-Houfe, jn Pilgrim dragging a huge crofs, 29 Robbers fometimes fo difguifed, Pilgrims crawling round Holy- _ Houfe at Lore to, t 2 3 Pillar, before church of S. Maria Maggiore, taken from Temp. of Peace, 222 of Henry IV. ib. Columna rojlrata, 022 Pillars, granite, the greateft in Rome, rr- ■ 2 °° Trajan and Antonine, 346 Citoria, oa>j Curious, of various forts, 219, 220 a vaft one of Porta Santa, im- ported by Domitian, 220 Pillars, antique, at Milan, 464 Colorma infame, ib. Pillars, devotional, 460 Pines, a wood of them called thirty miles in length, II2 Piombino [Pal.] 2 q6 Piperno, anciently Privernum, 133 PISA, very ancient, 380 Dome, 3 g r Antique Vafe, ib. Baptiftery, ,g 2 Z PI- The GENER PISA. Campo Santo, 382 Leaning tower, with Signr. Ga- lilei's opinion concerning it, 388 Pi s a n 1 [Pal. ] at Venice, fine paint- ings there, 76 Piscina Mirabilis, 184 Pistoia, 391 Plague, a great one at Venice, in 1576, commemorated in an in/crip tion, 70 Deliverance from it at Leg- horn, to what ajcribed, 379 Proceffions on account of it, 45° Plague-fore fix' 'd by S. Carlo on a pillar, 469 Plan of Rome, antique, 255 Plants and trees. Vide trees. PO, [River'] manner of paffing it, 33 Podefta, the title of governors of cities in the Venetian ft ate, 101 Poggio a Caiano, a villa of the grand duke, 392 Poggio Imperiale, 429 Pojvipe y, his ftatue, 298 • Story concerning it, ib. his bitft, 3 1 4 ■ his villa's, 184,371. Pompous Appearance not allowed among noble Venetians, 9 1 Pons Milvius, now Ponte Molle, l 3.3 Ponte de'Sofpiri at Venice, 5$ Pope [Innocent XIII, ] eletled, 190 Proclaim' 'd, ib. Mcb, what they do upon elec- tion of a new pope, 191 Adoration, how perform' d, ib. Coronation, ib. Pope, hew receives the fa era- mental wine,, ib. A L INDEX. Pope. Flaxfet on fire before the new pope, igi Artifice reported to have been ufed at this eletlion, 1 9 3 Pafqidnades at this eletlion, r 94 Pope, his pofture at the general procejfion, 278 Porphyry, black, 243 Porta Trigemina, 358 Portico, 3 miles long, 4.4.6 Poverty, great appearance of it all along between Calais and Abbe- ville, 2 Pr^fericuxa, vcffels ufed in fa- crifice, . 478 Pratolino, 430 Preaching on Sundays in Italy, not common, 203 Manner of preaching there, ib. Preaching of a Jefuit in Piazza Navona, 362 Precipices, vaft, in road between S. Remo and Genoa, 2 1 Prieft, remarked as eminent for cha- ftity, 30 Priefts, play in the Orcheftra at the Venetian opera's, 84 Primocerio, his office, nominated by the Doge, 6 -j Princes frequent in Naples and Si- cily, 1 57 Princefs of Modem., new efpcus'd, 12,17 Proceffion, a grand one at Venice, to implore a bleffing for the new-year, 63 at Rome, of Corpus Chriftt, called the mofl general proceffion, 277 Procefiions on account of the plague, 450 Drefs of proceffwnsrs, ib. ProcefTions on Good-1'riday, 473 Procuracies at Venice, 59 .60 Pro- Mi The GENER Procurators of St. Mark, their ori- gin, 59 Proteclor [Cardinal] in Rome, to all nations, 301 Proverb at Venice, 50 Pii mice-Stones put in the vaults of the old buildings, to make the work lefs heavy, 259 Putegli, now Pozzuoli, 176,185, 186 Pyramid ofCeftius, ^59 R. Adicofani, caftle, 374 Rats Tower, 502 RAVENNA, • now at a diftance from the fea, anciently notj 108 Dome, a chapel there painted by Guido, ib. Vine planks the great door of this church, ib. Church of S. Vita/is, ib. of S. Nazarus and Celfus, ib. Rotonda, anciently the menu- • ment of Theodoric, cover- ed by one vaft ftone, 3 8 [cot diiim. 109 Mr. Jddifcu's and Mifon's different accounts of it re- conciled, ib. Ravcmiefc and Pavians, feme of their fpoils and repfifals, 110 Alexander Vll'sjlatue, 1 1 1 Redemption of Jlaves, 8 Redentore [Church of] at Ve- nice, 6 1 Redicosa,' Mount, part of the A- pennine, bad way, 433 A L INDEX. Regent, his anfwer to the follicita- tions in favour of count Horn, REGGIO, in Lombardy, fubjett to the duke of Modena, 29 Fine opera's at the time of the fair there, 30 Jews there, 3 1 Women go veiled there, 30 Religious Orders. Carthufians, 156,435,436 Hermits of Camaldoli, 164, 165 of ha Trap', 430, & feq. of S. Onuphrio, 230 Remo [St.] its fituation, ' 18 votive pictures in church there, '9 Road, what fort, between S. Remo and Genoa, 20 Trees and plants, what forts in this road, 21 vaft precipices, ib. Remora, 512 Renno [or little Rhine] a little ri- ver running along the road, be- tween Ferrara and Cento, 105 Retiarii, &c. 317 Reticulatum Opus, what, 132 Rhine [River] 502 Rhone [River] 8 the firft inhabited part of Refuge [Tozmis of] Ri Venice, 46 Rice-grounds about Milan, 459 Ridotto, Venetian, 87 RIMINI, antiquities there, 1 18 a marble bridge, ib. a triumphal arch, ib. Remains of an amphitheatre,\b. Suggeftum, ib. fome doubt concerning that, 1 1 9 Cell of S. Antonio, ib. Z 2 Ri- The G E N E R River Somme, 3 Seine, 5 Rhone, 8 Saon, ib. Lifeirre, *3 Drum, ib. Leinza, 33 Po, ib. Brenta, 43 Renno, 105 Rubicon, 112, &feq. Concha, 119 "Tiber, 1 32,361 Garigliano \JLiris] «45 Arno, 3 8o,393 Taro, 457 *ticino, 477 Adda, 478 Seri, ib. Mincio, 481 Adige, 496 Danube, 500 Maine, 501 Rhine, 502 Roer, 505 Wahl, ib. Maefe, ib. TJjd, 5i4 Rivers joining, Rhone and Saon, 8 Maine and Rhine, 502 Rhine and Mofelle, 5°3 Robe of noble Venetians worn by the citizens and why, 9 1 Rocco [St.] School of, at Venice, 6 9 ROERWERT, 5°5 ROME, 189 its Jit nation, l 95 Entrance into it on this fide, very nobis, ib. Streets, many of them exactly firait, 196 Campo Marzo [ the ancient Campus Martins] the clofeft built part of Rome, 197 A L INDEX. ROME. Palaces, a general defcription of them, 197 Brick-floors even in the heft a- partments, 198 Gratuity for feeing a palace welljudg'd, ib. Churches, a general defcription of them, 199 Bafilica, what, ib. 'Tribune, what, ib. Modern churches moft adorn 'd, 200 Votive piilures, 201 Pulpits, what fort, 203 Church of St. Peter [Bafilica'] 204 S. Maria ad Martyres, an- ciently the Pantheon, 211 S, John Later an [Baflica] 215 S. Maria Maggiore [Bafi- lica] Santa Croce, S. Bibiana, Grand Giefu, S. Ignatius, S. Andrea de Giefuiti, 219 223 ib. 224 ib. 2^5 S. Maria della Vittoria, ib. 6\ Philippo Neri, S. Andrea della Valle, S. Kath. di Siena, S. Agoftino, S. Cmiphrio, Madonna del Portico in Campitelli, 226 ib. 227 22y 230" or, ib. S. Pudens &? Pudentiana, 231 S. Pietro in Vincoli, 232 S. Marti no d i Monti, ib. dell'Aniina, ib. S. Martina, 233 S. Agnes, "without the walls, 234 S.Conftantia, 235 ROME, The GENERAL INDEX. ROME. Ch. of S. Lorenzo, 235 S. Bartholomeo, 237 S. Chryfogonus, 240 S. Cacilia, ib. S. Francefco della Ripa, 241 S. Sabina, ib. S. Maria in Aventino, 7.\% S. Vicenzo & Anaftafio, ib. S. Maria de Scald Cceli, 243 S. Paolo \BcJilica\ ib. S. Maria de Ard Cceli, 544 S. Sylvefter, 246 S. Agnes in Piazza Navona, ib. & Maria del Popola, ib. de i Capucini, 248 S. Ifidoro, ib. Two others I recoiled, not fet up, but lying in pieces: one in the Villa Ludovi/ia, the other before the Barberini palace. Amphitheatre, 350 Holes in the walls, how ac- counted for by Ficaroni, 35* Circus Maaimus, of Caracalla, Theatre of Marcellus, Baths, of Titus, of Caracalla, of Diochfian, of Helena the Emprefs, Fountain in Piazza Navona, 362 Fons Egeria, Catacombs, Maufoleum, of Cacilia Metella, ^55 of Alex. Severus, 357 of Augufvus, ib. Pyramid of Ceftius, 358 Sepulchre of Nafones, 359 Monte Tejiacchio, ib. Cloaca;, 3 6 1 Aquedt'Ms, ' 25'/ ',362 Tyber [River] 361 ROME, 3b* 355 316 352 ib. 337 33* 3*5 35 6 The GENER ROME. Oratorio di Caravita, og 2 Governor of Rome, Sig. Fal- conieri, fince made a cardi- nal, 3 g 4 Roftrum, an antique one at Genoa, 26 Rota [Sig.] fine colleclirn of paint- ings and fculptures, 78 Rotonda at Ravenna, vide Ravenna. Rotonda at Rome, vide Pantheon. Rotonda'j, ruinous, towards Bait, &c ROTTERDAM, 506 Erafenus'sftatue, 507 Monument creeled to an Eng- lifh youth, 5 o8 Fronts of houfes built inclining, 5°9 ROVIGO, a handfome dome there, 103 Antique bufts at count Sylve- fire's T ib ; Rubicon [River] I12 ■what Blond fays of it, 1 1 3 his reading of an old infcription faid to have been on the fide t °fit, ib. 1'ranfmpt of a copy of the in- fcription, as feen in the Va- '■ tican, II4 Cluverius's edition of the in- fcription, and opinion of it, 115 Conteft between the people of Cefenate and of Rimini, con- cerning the river, ib. A bridge over it -when Cefar pafs'd it, as collected from the words of Suetonius, 117 Prodigy related by Suetonius at Cajar's pajjing it, ib. A L INDEX. Ruins, artificial, Rupes Tarpei'aj S. 326 SAcramental wine, how received by the pope, lq ,- Sacredo [Senator of Venice] fine collet! ion of curiojities, would not fhew them, 77 Sacrifices of Tauribole, Criobole, and Aigibole, 11,12 Suovetaurilia, 297- Saibrs, Italian and French, Jlack at putting out to fea, 2 3 Saints of Old Teftament at Venice, 6 [ Salute [Church of] at Venice, ib. Salvini [Dr.] a learned Floren- tine, 425 Sanctuaries in Venice, 1 00 SannazariusV tomb, \ 74 Sanseverino [St.] his church at ^ Naples, 1 5 ? 2~ouths of Sanfeverini family poifond by their uncle, their monument, ib. Santa Croce, church, 223 palace, 297 SARZANO, there quit the Genoefe mountains, 2 7 Savelli, palace, on the remains of theatre of Marcellus, 3 1 6 Family defcended from antient Roman S a belli, ib. Sbirri, officers of juftice, employed inarrefts, JOO Scacliola what, how ufed, 201 Scala Santa, 2I g. Schelenberc, coo SCHEVELING, r,. School of St. Antonio at Padua, 38 School at Ferrara, della Madonna della Circoncifione, 104 Schools, meeting-places for confra- ternities. 38,64 Schools The GENERAL INDEX. Schools at Venice, 6cj, & feq. of S. Roc co, 6cj of S. Mark, 71 of the Carita, 73 Scipio Africanus, the place of his retirement, 183 Scourging of men's felves along the ftreets, 189 'Tricks play' d by fame of them during this feeming pe- nance, 190 do it for hire, ib. Scourging in the dark, at an ora- tory in Rome, 362 Accident at one of thefe meet- ings, which put the people under a confternation, 363 St. Sebaftian [Church] at Venice, 61 Forty pieces of Paolo Vero- nefe there, ib. Secret Gate at Augfburgh, 49 8 Seggi [at Naples'] what, 158 Nobili de Seggi, ib. Eletti de Seggi their office, 159 Seine [River] 5 Semones what, 238 Sepulchre of Nafones, 359 vide Tomb and Monument. Sermonetta, much fulphur there, ill SETIA, its fit nation, 134 its wines preferr'd by Augu- Jlus to all others, ib. Reverfe now of their antient excellence, ib. Shenkinshens [Ifland] 505 Shepherds how cloath d on Apen- nines, 126 Shew-bread [Table of] authentick reprefentatian of it, 248 Sibyl [Cumaan] her grotta, 179 her baths, 181 Sienna, Dome, csV. 375 pav'd with brick, 37 7 Arms of Sienna, ib. Univerjity, ib, beft Italian fpoke there, ib. Simon Magus, an infcription un- derftood as relating to him enquir'd into, 238 SlNUESSA 145 Suirum, 313 Sixtus V. the rejlorer of Rome, 269 his rich chapel in church of St. Maria Maggiore, 220 Slaves [Redemption of] 8 Slaves at Marfeilles, 1 6 at Genoa, 23 at Leghorn* 378 Sleeping under what circumftances efteemed dangerous in Italy, 28 an inftance of extraordinary caution in that particular, ib. Sodomy, an odd law againft it at Genoa, 2 7 Solfatara, its old names, 186 Smoke ijfuing out, ib. all hollow under, 187 Vitriol and alum here, ib. Somme [River] King Edw. III. his paffage of it, 3 Sorafte [Mount] novj called S. O- refte, 132 a hermitage on it called St. Sylveftro, 133 Sorbolo, a fruit in quality like a medlar, Sortes Prasneftinse, Spada, palace, Specchio di Diana, Spin-houfe at Amfterdam, 107 403 298 372 & 511 Spoils from Jerufalem where lodg'd, 2,55 Spo- The GENERAL INDEX. SPOLETO, Antique Aqtied-t ■ H6 Springs fcalding hot, ' Y y 9 Stadt-houie at Amjlerdam, 509 Stair-cafe, oval, 2 8q noted ones at Bologna, 442 Contrivance for Jirait a/cent, btatera Romana, 292,339 Statues, enlivening the Villa's, &c. 3 2 7 a people of them in Rome, 34-3 the pleafure ar -ij. big from the obfervation of them, ib. Stephen [St.] his body pretended to be at Venice, ( ll Stone, remarkable, fuppofed an al- ts tar ' 4-93 Stones, Jhewn for thunderbolts, 488 fa. Montfaucon's opinion concerning them, ib. Storks, on tops of houfes, 5 oo Stoves inftcad of chimneys, 495 Strada [Octavius]" his M.'S. hiftory of Roman emperors, with their effigies, 270,427 Strangers allowed considerable li- berty in the churches at Rome, e 2 °4 Strangers names fent to the governor at lerrara, IO r Penalty offending a f life name, ib. Streets narrow at Genoa, and in 0- iher cities of Italy, and the rcafon given for it, 2 4 wide at Lerrara, 10 , and at Naples, j 4g ^% iles > 401 Strozzi, their conteft with the Medici, . , - Vol. IL A2 ° Sudatoiii di S. Germano, i8q Suggeftum at Rimini, 1 1 8 fame doubt concerning it, ib. Sulphur much at Sermonetta, 1 3 3 at Solfatara, 186 Sulphureous fweating places, i 89 Suovetaurilia facrifice, 297 Order of the animals inverted, ib. a modern proceffwn at Bologna much in the manner of it, Q a- ■ +48 Superftmous notion of the noble Venetians, „ Sweating-?/^ of Tritoli, ! 79 of St. German, fidphureous, Swelling on throats, vaft, 479 Method whereby they endeavour to remove them, ib. TABLE of Jhew -bread, au- thentic reprefentation of it, 348 Tables inlaid with marbles, Lapis Lazuli, &c. 40 - rahfmans, .,'! Tapiftries of the Vatican, 2 7 ? Tarpeian rock, ~ ir> Lasso, his monument, 2 20 Tauribolium, the manner of it, . 11 Altar at Lions in memory of one, ib Taxes, high at Florence, 429 Tempio del Gigante, why fa called, j §2 Temple, ancient, ' of white marble, faid to have been built by primi- 1 the Chriftians, A a 12 x Tern- The GENERAL INDEX. Temple of Jupiter at Pozzuoli, 186 Temples of Apollo, Diana, Venus, Neptune, &c. Rotonda's toward Bai.-e, &c. ruinous, 177 Temples [Heathen] in Rome, vide Rome. Tergauw, 513 Tern 1, the great cafcade near it defcribed, 127 Terracina, it's etymology, 137 it's old name, ib. Galba-born near it, ib. Teflerje Militares, 402 Theatres, at Reggio, 30 at Vicenza, 36 thofe at Venice named from the neighbouring churches, 83 the property of fever al no- blemen, ib. Theodore [St.] ancient patron of Venice, a flattie of him there,. a particularity in it, ib. Theodoric, his porphyry tomb, I [O Three Taverns, J 34 Thunder, bells ring when it thun- ders, and why, 49 1 Thunderbolts, ft ones ftjezv'd for fuch. Father Mbntfaucon's opi- nion concerning them. 488 Thuilleries palace and gardens, 5 Tiber [River] 132 Tiberine iftarul, 237. Tiberius, pedeftal of a ftatue e- reiled to him upon his reftoring fourteen cities of Afia, 1S6 Tide, what height at I'enice, how faid to diminifh in other parts of the gulph, j 1 1) Time, how meafured in Italy, 2 8 Tirol [People of] live eafy as to ■ taxes, &c. 495 Tivoli, the ancient Tibur, 366 Villa d'Efte there, ib. Cafcade, %6j Toledo [Strada di] in Naples ve- ry magnificent, 149 Toledo [Don Pietro di] viceroy of Naples, the means he ufed to bring back the people of Pozzuoli to their homes, after having been frighted thence by earthquakes, &c. 178 built a caftle at Baia, 1 84 Tomb of Theodoric, no of Virgil, ^ 174 of Sanazarius, . ib. of Agrippina, 1 84 of Chriftina, J^. of Sweden^ 210 of Raphael Urbin, and Han. . Caracci, 214 of Ovid fo called, ggj of the Magi, 465 of St. Peter Martyr, ib. of duke Galeazzi, 47/5 . of Bolt his, 477 of S. Auguftine, ib* of the Scaligeri, princes of Verona, 488 of pope Lucius III. ib« Antenor, and Livy, 42 Torture-room in Stadt-houfe at Amfterdam, g 1 j Towers built againft incurfions of Turks, 22,120 Tower, halting, 388 of Giotto at Florence, ^gg of St. Mark, may be gone up on horfeback, 59 Town-houfe of Lions, 10 of Marfeilles, 1 5 of Gene a, 26, Towns The G E N E R Towns of refuge, 5H Trade of Loreto, wherein conjifts, 12 1 ■La Trap, religious order, 430 the way of living, ib. Rules of that order, 43 1 Trajan, arch of white marble e- ^ reeled to him at Ancona, 1 20 Treacle [Venice] grand apparatus for the making of it, 83 Treaiury of St. Mark, 5 ' 2 of Loreto, I2 ] 1 RENT, noon there an hour before mid-day, the reafon (as fuppofed) °f ih 494 Trees and plants, -between Lions and Marfeilles, H ■about St. Remo, in Lombardy, in Padua, towards Ferrara, ^about Cento, near Ravenna, Apennines, towards Naples, 1 3 4, 1 3 6, 1 3 I 38,i74 about Pifa and Leghorn, 275 ■about Bologna, 434,447 about Milan, 45^ ■between Verona and Volurnia, 49 2 in Tirol, 495,496,497 near Donawert, 500 near Memdingen, 501 about Cologn, £04 Tre Tratte di Chorda, the manner of that punifhment, IO r Tribuna, what, xgq the famous one at Florence, 405 Trjcemini Fratres, the gates they went out and return' d 20,21 3' 41 ,0 3 107 1 12 127 A L INDEX. Trimalcio and his gang repre- fented in fculpture, 298, 381 Fa, Alontfaucon's opinion of thofe reprefentations, 381 Tnpodes, 40I Tritoli, fprings fc aiding hot ; paf- fages to fame of them infupporta- ble, 1 70 Triumphal arch at Vicenza, 36 at Rimini, 118 at Rome, vide Rome. Trophies, whether of Marias or Trajan, o 2 q Turkifh pyrates, 2a Turks, towers built againft their hi- curfions, 22,120 Turks gutted Cattolica of goods and inhabitants, l20 Tuscueanum of CiceJ oQr, Tyber [River] \6\ V. through, their monument, 35* 37i VAs Barberinum, fuppos'd to be artificial Cameo, 292 contained afhes of Alexander Sever us, jb. Copy of its figures, per Nic. Pouffin, ib. Vatican palace, 2 ™ Number of rooms faid to 'be in it, ib. Gallery there, called five hundred paces long, 266 Another, 2 68 Library, 2 60 Ornaments, of it, \ b. What they fhewed us in it ; Greek Teft. 900 years old, ib. Gofp. St. Luke and St. John 800 years old, rb, A a 2 Va- The GENERAL INDEX. Vatican. Virgil, 1400 years old, as faid, 2 69 K. Hen. VIII. his writings, ib. Dimenfions of the library, 271 Tapifiiry-hangings of the Va- tican, ib. V elite 1. Auguftus nurfed near it, *33 VENICE, its filuatiotiy 44 Gondola' 's, ib. Rife of Venice, 46 Riallo, its fir ft inhabited part, ib. Canals, the great ftreets, 47 Land paffages there very nar- row, ib. Campo's of Venice, ib. Bridges, above 400 •without battlements, flippery footing, ib. Crab-fifh crawling on fides of houfes, 48 Outjide of houfes painted by the greatejl mafters, ib. Piazza di S. Marco 6? Piaz- zetta, ib. Theodore [St.] a ftatue of him ; a particularity in it, a fuperftitious cujiom of the noble Venetians, ib. Churches of Venice, 50,59,61 Greek church there, 63 Treafury of St. Mark rich in jewels and in relics, 52 Doge's corno, the pretended ori- gin of it, 53 Venice, when firft receiv'd that name, ib. Crown of Cyprus, how the Ve- netians became poffejfed of it, £4 VENICE. Denuncie Secrete, for what purpofe fet up, 55 Doge's palace, 54 the palace of the republic, 56 naftinefs of it, ib. Hall of great council, ib. Hall of the college, gy Arfenal or armory, ib. Occqfion of ere cling it, 58 Council of Ten, its origin, ib. a terrible court of juftice, 95 Tower of St. Mark ; may be gone up on horfe-back, 59 Procurators of St. Mark, their origin, ib. Procuraties, defer iption of them, and by whom built, 60 Library ; fculptures antique at the entrance, ib. Convent of S. Giorgio, 61 Primocerio, his office, 63 Schools of Venice, for what pur- pofe ere tied, 69 Schools of S. Rocco, ib. of S. Mark, 7 1 of the Carita, 73 Palaces of Venice, of a manner different from the Roman or Florentine, 7 4 Some particulars of themfib. & feq. Hofpitals in Venice for females, 79 Wives chofen out of them, ib. & vide, p. 154. fine mufical performances in thefe hofpitals, ib. Arfenal, great, 80 Bucentaur, S 1 Galeaffes, 8 2 Camels, machines for raifing of flips funk, ib. Water, frefh, farce at Venice, manner of providing it, ib. VE- " M ■ « The GENE R A L INDEX. VENICE. Treacle [Venice'] grand appa- ratus for making it, 8 3 Glcffes [Venice'] ib. Theatres there, named from neighbouring churches, ib. Priefts playing in the Orche- ftra, 84 Carnaval [Venetian] 86 Ridotlo [Venetian] 87 Other entertainments of Car- naval, 88, &feq. Noble Venetians their robe worn by the citizens, 9 1 Reafons given for it, i b. Several particidars concerning them, ib, & feq. Vide noble. Noble ladies, go Courtezans of Venice, 04 Doge, 95 Inquifitors of ft ate, ib. Canal Orphano, why fo called, ib. Some maxims of the Venetian government, g$, & feq. Orders in Venice, their fever al diftintliotis, 9 7 Nuns, noble, at Venice, 99 Solemnities at the feafts of .their feveral convents, ib. their drefs, ib. Saniluaries, 1 00 Venus [Chambers of] hoo/«z «tf c/ hofpitals, yg, 154 Wolf, &JV. as Capitol, enquiry con- cerning it, 324 /£(? rtrwj- 0/ Si(77s, 377 Wolves /» France, 7 r'» Germany, 495 Women i>«7V, 30,94,503 Women #0/ to go into the fublerra- neous part of St. Peter's church at Rome, except on Monday in Whitfun-week, 2 1 o Women, in Holland, not hang'd, but ftr angled, 514 Wood of pines, called thirty miles in length, 1 1 2 Woods of chefnuts, 22 Woollen manufacture, at Abbeville, 2 at Padua, 43 Worihip of Ifis, when abolifh'd in -Rome, and upon what occafion, 353 Y Ssel [River] 5*4 ■Masters — M A ST ERS and their WORKS, MENTIONED IN BOTH THE V O L U M E S; A. A GRATE [Marco Ferrerio] Sculpt. S. Bartholomew exco- riated, Page 463 ALBANf. Loves, round, 294 Rinaldo & Armida, 2 n ALESSANDRO ALLORL at Poggio a Caiano, Frefco, ALGARDI, Sculpt. Altar-piece, 226* Dead Chrift, &c. terra Cot- ta, 233 S. John and-M. Magdalen, StUCCO, 26.6. ALPHONSO di Ferrara, Sculpt. Heads, refembling the antique, 445 AMMANATI, Sculpt. at Padua a colojfal Hercu- ANDREA MANTEGNA. at Padua, 40,41 at Venice, 7 H ANDREA SACCHI. Mofaics after his defigns, 211 Story of Conftantine, 218 A faint wafting incenfe to the B. Virgin, 248 One raifed from the dead, ib. St. Romoaldo,i£c. 251 Defigns for Mofaic in St. Peter's church, 274 deling in Pal. Barberini,- 2 9° .Noah and Cham, 291 the baptifm of Chrift, ib. Studies after Coregio's Cu~- pola at Parma, 292 Apollo i naked, crowning a youth, &c. 2 q~ ANDREA DEL SARTA. at Poggio- a Caiano, Frefco, 39 z at Parma. Copy of Raphael's RitrattO of'LeoX.&c. 454 ANDREA M A S T E R S, and ANDREA DEL SARTA. at Milan. a holy family excellent, 470 Madonna del Sat co, a drawing, 428 ANTIQUE. lloma Triuwphans, 291 Venus, ib. Diana and Mars, 300 Some inconfiderable ones, 310 Some good remains in the Circus of Flora, 235 Nozze Aldobrandine, ib. Coriolanus, &c. 3^2 Paintings brought from Ovid's tomb, 3 1 j Retiarii, &?c. Mofaic, ib. Europa, &c. Mofaic, 291 Remains of painting in Villa Barberini, formerly Pom- P s f*> 371 ARPINAS [Cavalier] Mofaic after his defigns Clem. VIII. &c. 243 Rape of Sabine s, 324 Horatii and Curia tii, ib. B. BACCICCIO. a glory with angels, 2.26 Angels under Cupola of St. /Sg- nes, 246 BACCIO BANDINELLI, Sculpt. B. Rel. on a pedejlal, 423 BAMBINI [Caval] a deling, yy BAROCCIO [Federico] at Ravenna, death of St. Vita- Hh 108 BARTOLI [Pietro Santo] Copies in colours from antique paintings in Ovid's tomb, 261 249 294 295 489 3 11 316 206" their WORK S. BASSAN [Giacomo] An affumption, A pref miction, BELLINO [Giovanni] Adam and Eve, a chapel, BENOZZO, Paintings in Campo Santo at Pifa, 382 BENVENUTO daGAROFALO at Ferrara, a chapel, &c. 104 at Rome, St. Katherine, BERETTONI [Nicola] a deling, BERNINI, Sculpt. Conftantine on horfeback, Great altar at St. Peter's, 207 Elephant fupporting an obelijl, 21 5 S. Terefa, 226 Statues in S. Mar. del Popolo, 247 S. Bibiana, S. Ludovico dying, a portrait buft, portraits in oyl-painting, Neptune, His original defigns for St. Pe- ter's chair, &c. 330 a ritratto buft, 342 David going to encounter Go- liah, 3 43 Aineas carrying Anchif's, ib. Apollo and Daphne, ' ib. Fountain in Piazza Navona, at Sienna, Mary Magd. and S.Jerom, 375 BIFFI [Andrea] Sculpt. Alto Relievo's about the choir at Milan, 462 BONINI. Admirable carvings in wood, representing fcreft trees, &V. 44-3 BONON. 223 241 290 316 337 MASTERS, and their WORKS. BONON. at Ferrara, feveral works, ef- perially a fine deling, 104 BORGOGNONE. a battle, in Frefco, 275 a battle, large, in oil, 427 BRONZINO VECCHIO. Ritratt. of Mich. Angela, 42 7 BRUGHELL. Some landjkapes moft elaborate, LE BRUN. Darius' s tent, 6 BRUSASORSI. Gathering the Manna, CAMASSEI. Story of Conjlantine, 218 CAMILLO ROSCONI, fculpt. in ch. S. J. Lateran, 216 Buft of marq. Palavicini, 295 the four feafons, ib. CAMFAGNA, vide Hieronymo. CARACCI [Agoftino] Communion of St. Jerom, 436 His laft work, 456 CARACCI [Anmbale] at Rome, Padre Eterno in Mofaic af- ter his defign, 209 a deling and altar-piece in S. Maria del Popolo, 246 S. Gregory kneeling, &c. 250 Dead Chrift, B. Virgin, £?V. 241 Farnefe gallery, 285 a Noli me tangere, 291 Polypheme and Galatea, ib. a, Magdalen, 294 Temptation of St. Antony, ib. Vol. II. CARACCI, [Annibale] at Rome, Sufanna and the Elders,- 3 1 1 at Poggio a Gaiano, a holy family, 392 at Bologna, the refurretlion of our Lord, 437 at Parma, a Venus furrounded with Cupids, 455 at Milan,. a St. John, 470 CARACCI [Ludovice] at Ferrara, a drcumcifion, 104 at Cento, B. Virgin and other figures, called Guercino's ftudy, 107 at Bologna, St. John -preaching in the wilder nefs, 4^6 Flight into Egypt, 443 at Piacenza, m the dome feveral paint- ings, 4 - 7 CARAVAGGIO. in S. Maria del Popolo, 2j 6 CARLO CIGNANI. Allar at Si. JaJr. in Valle, 226 Several pieces in public palace al Bologna, aa-, CARLO MARATTI. his laft public work, 1^7 Story of Conjlantine, 2 1 ,s' en altar-piece in S. Maria del Popolo, 247 a chapel in Frefco, 248 an altar-piece [B. Virgin, and Chrift deftroying the ferpent] ib. Car tone, a nativity, 266 B b CARLO MASTERS, and CARLO MARATTI. Madonna in Mofaic, after his defign, 274 Defigns for Mofaic in St. Pe- ter's church, ib. a nativity, 275 apeft, 2c,i Himfelf painting the marquis Palavicini, 295 Tuccia the veftal, 296 a deling, 316 Cardinal Maffimi, 3 1 7 Holy family, 375 Vifitation of B. Virgin, ifa. CARLO SICILIANO, Figures in hrafs, at a- fountain, 302 CAROLINO di Borgo, S. Sepul- chro. Paintings in the Sala Clemen- CAV. CALABREZE. Altar at S. Andr. in 261 Valle, 226 224 246 CIAMPELLI [Agoftino}' Story of S. Biiiana, CIGOLf, B. Virg, fe? S. John, CIROFERUI. Cupola of S. Agnes, Beftgns for Mofaic in S. Peter's church, 274 Cupids and Foliage, 6fVi 295 CLAUDE de Lorain. Two fine landfkapes, 299 Two large and fine, lan.ifkapes, COCHI [Philip] S. Peter, Mofaic, COLONNA. Paintings in- a ^retta, CONCHA [Caval.] Prophets in Ch. of S. J. Late- ran, 2 1 6 S, Miihgel, L'c. 248 310 4 2 7 their WORKS. COREGGIO. a nativity called la Notte di Coreggio, 452 a Magdalen, 453 Ttvo Cupola's, 454 Marriage of S. Katherine, 455 Coronation of the B. Virgin, ib. The upper part of three young girls naked, 470 Paintings in the colleclion, late of the duke di Bracciano, now of Orleans, 309 D. DANIEL TURINESE. Martyrdoms of S. Lawrence- and S. Katherine, 247 DANIEL DA VOLTERRA, Defcent from the crofs, 251 DENTONE. a hall finely painted in perfpec- tlVe^ AAA DOMEN1CHINO. Chapel in S. Maria del-la Vi't- toria, 22-6 The four rounds, which are en- graved by Giacomo Freii, 246 S. Francis, 248 Story of S. Cecilia, a- whole Chapel in Frefco, 2 40 S. Andrew fcourged before Ne- ro, 250 Communion of S.Jerom, ib. an Ecce Homo, 266 Cart one, a friar, &V. ib. other Cart ones, 267 Ripofo di Caccia, 294. Adam and Eve, 31 1 Landfkapes in-Frefco, 22 c DOMEN'ICO GUIDI. Sculpt. a dc-ad Chrift, 231 MASTERS, and their W O R K S. FARINATI [Paolo] Ckrift feeding the multitude, 489 FAVI [Count] Copies after the Caracci, &c. 443 FEDE DI GALLITIA. Ritratto of a friar, 468 ■ Caricatura's, with a pen, ib. FIAMINGO. Sculpt. Angels, 6?f. 233 Cafta Sufanna, 252 FRANCESCHINO Bolognefe. at Genoa, deling of the church of the Annunciata, 25 in townhoufe, a deling, 2 at Bologna, Death of S. Jofeph, 453 FRATOLINrt. Mignature and Crayons, 392 G. GABBIANI. Apotheofis of ' Cofmo I. 392 Copy of Coreggio's marriage of S. Katherine. 455 GALARDO FIAMINGO. Angel fetching S. Peter out of prifon, 303 GIACOMO DEL PO. at Naples, 157 GIORGIONE. at Padua, faints, 41 Outfide of houfes, 42 at Venice, outfide of houfes, 4^75 in fchool of $. Mark, 7 2 GIOSEPPE CHIARI. deling in palace Barberini, Plato in the cradle, and bees, 290 GIOTTO. at Padua, a crucifixion, &c. 38 at Rome, bark, .at S. Piter's, 21 1 at Pifa, in Campo Santo, 383 GIOVANNI di S. Giovanni. a Frefco painting on the out- fide of a houfe at Florence, Summer apartments in the pa- lace Pitti, ib, GIOVANNI FRANCESCO BOLOGNESE. LandJIiapes in Frefco, 29^ GIOVANNI GIROLAMO ' [Padre] Paintings and drawings, &c. GIOVANNI DA UDENA. ^ 4 Grotej "que figures, 262 GIULIO CLOVIO. Mignatures, . 2 70 GIULIO ROMANO. at Venice, a Madonna, &c. 78 at Rome, an altar-piece, 232 at Florence, Marcus Aurelius on horfeback in the- Capitol, a drawing, 428 at Modena, three battles, 45 3 at Parma, banquet of the gods, a drawing, a.c6 GIUSTO. at Padua, death of S. Chrifto- 41 216 224 225 231 pher, LE GROT. Sculpt. in Ch. S. J. Lateran, in Grand Giefu, Beatus Staniflaus, Tobit, &c. S. Francis de Paula, &c B.Rel. 249 GUERCIN DEL CENTO. at Genoa, a S. Francis, 26 B b 2 GUER- 334 335 4i ioS 152 S. Pv- 243 248 MASTERS, GUERCIN DEL CENTO. at Cento, in churches and houfes, 106,107 at S. Marino, the flaying of S. Bartholomew, 133 at Rome, an Aurora, Landjkapes in Frefco, GUGLIELMO DELLA PORTA. Sculpt. Piety and Abundance, j GUI DO. at Paris, David and Goliah at Padua, a S. John, at Ravenna, a chapel, at Naples, S. Francis, at Rome, martyrdom of ter, S. Michael, &c. Copy of Raphael's S. Cecilia, 249 Padre Eterno, &c. in Frefco, ib. S.Andrew going to be crucify 'd, 250 Story of S. Cacilia, 241 a deling in the Vatican, 266 a chapel in Monte Cavallo, 274 a boy ajleep, 290 a faint praying, 291 M. Magdalen con piedi nudi, ib. another, . ib, Chrift ajleep, and Madonna, 292 Card. Spada, . 299 an Europa, 300 5. Paul the hermit j and S. An- tonio, 303 a crucifixion, , 310 the Aurora, ib, Andromeda*, 3 1 1 ^portrait, , 317 at Bologna, fever al pieces in . the public palace, 442 and their WORKS. H. HAMERANI [Ermenigildus] a model in wax, B. R. S. Luke, &c. 234 HIACINTHO BRANDI. deling in S. Carlo in Corfo, 248 HIERONYMO CAMPAGNA. at Padua, fculpture, 3 7 HIERONYMO RUMANI. at Padua, an altar-piece, 40 HOLBEIN. at Venice, Sir The. More (fo called) and his family, 76 at Florence, Martin Luther, 405 Sir Rich. Southwell, ib. I. JOHN DE BOLOGNA. Sculpt: Rape of Sabine women, &c. 419 Coloffal figure, reprefenting the Apennine, 430 Neptune, &V. at a fountain in. Bologna, 442 JULIO ROMANO, vide Giulio. K. KNELLER [Sir Godfrey] Lord SOMERS, 42s L. LANFRANC [CavaL] at Venice, the B. Virgin as in afjumption, jq at Naples, pool of Bethefda, 1 52 a ciel'nig, 157 3 ' LAN- MASTERS, LANFRANC [Cava!.]. at Rome, cupola of S. Andrea in Valle, 226 a Madonna, full length, 248 6\ Sebaftian carry' d by An- gels, 290 deling of a -portico, 342 LASANIUS [Jo. Pet.] Sculpt. Alto Relievo's at the front of the dome at Milan, 462 LELY [Sir Peter}, Copies of his beauties at Wind- fir, 429 LEONARDO DA VINCI. 'Two women,, 290 S.Katherine, 291 Leda, 295 Mechanical defigns, twelve vo- lumes in folio, 467 Caricatura's, 468 Cart ones of the heads andhands in his laft fupper, 471 other drawings of his, ib. an old copy in oil of his laft fupper, 475 LIBERI [Caval.~] at Venice, Pal. Grimani, a portico or gallery, 76 in the Logietta, ib. LORENZETTO BOLOG- NESE. Sculpt. Statues after defigns of Ra- phael, 247 LORENZO GHIBERTI. Alto-Relievo's on gates, LOVIGI GARZI. at Naples, a ci at Rome, a ci Angels and a glory. LUCA GIORDANO. at Naples, Frefco in a church, 152 at Florence, the deling of the Marq. Riccardi's gallery, 424. and their WORKS. S. LUKE. Madonna's at Venice^ S l i57' at Rome, 222- near Bologna, 447 a defcription of the Madonna's afcrib'd to him, 5 1 at Loreto, image of the Ma- donna carv'd by him, 122 39 6 r -53 227 247- M.. MARCELLOPROVENCIALIS Paul V. [Borghefe] Mofaic, 294, MASSARI [LUCIO] a holy family, 392 MASS1M1S [Caval. de] at Naples, a deling, 151 MATTEO DI LECCIA. Angels dejlroying the f even mor- tal fins, 261 MECCARINO. at Sienna, figures on floor of Dome, 375. at Pifa, in Campo Santo, - 382- MELOZZO DA FORLI. Fore-fhorten'd figures remov'd from Tribuna of S. Apoftoli, 274. MICHAEL ANGELO da Bat- taglia. Maffaniello' s revolution in Na- ples, 298 MICHAEL ANGELO BUO- NAROTA. at Naples, a crudfixion, 155 of which the oldftory. at Rome, others, 216,294 at Rome, S. John Lateran, an annunciation, 216 ' Mofes in monument of Ju- lius II. Sculpt. 232 Buft of our Saviour, 235 Statue of our Saviour, 257 Laft Judgtnen t, 263 MICHAEL MASTERS, and their WORKS. MICHAEL ANGELO. O. ,at Rome, Prophets, febyls, &c. 261 OL1VIERI [Paolo] Sculpt. Crucifixion of S. Peter, ib. Apollo 'fl&fing Marfyas, 337 Converfeon of S. Paul, ib. .Friendjhif, ib. His defign for refioring the ORGAGNA [Andrea] T'orfo, 268 Paintings in Campo Sa nto at -Academia delle Forze, 290 Pifa, 3 s 2 His dream, 292 Dante's RilraJto. 395 Mofes ftriking the rock, B. Rel. 297 Rape of Ganymede, 309 at Florence, Sculptures in a chapel, 423 Books, with Jketchcs of ar- chitecture, 427 His Ritratto by Bronzino, ib. MILANI [Valeriano] Defegns- of human figures, large as life, 440 MOCHI [Francefco] Sculpt. S. Veronica, 207 MODAVINO DA MODENA. Figures in Terra Cotta, per- fectly refembling living per- fins, 1 S3 MOLA. An altar-piece, 248 Mofes breaking the tables, 262 a nativity, ib. Jofeph and his brethren, 275 MORANDI. an altar-piece, 242 MURATORE [Domenico] a chapel, ib. MUTIANO. S.Francis, 248 Defcent of the Holy Ghoft, 2 60 N. NICOLA del'Abbate. Friezes in Infiituto at a, 441 P PALMA. Defceni of the Holy Ghoft, 246 PAOLO DE MATTHEIS. at Naples a Cupola, 153 PAOLO VERONESE. at Paris, a laft fupper, 6 at Padua, martyrdom of S. Gi- uftina, 40 Outfide of houfes, 4 2 at Venice outfide of houfes, 48 in Doge's palace, 5 7 in Chi. of S. Sebaftian, forty pieces of him, 6 1 in convent of S. George, the marriage at Cana, 62 at Pal. Grhnani, the finding of Mofes, 70 at Pal. pifani, Darius's tent, j 6 at Pal. Obizzi, near Bat- taglia, feven rooms, 102 at Bologna. feveral pieces in the public palace, 442 at Verona, S. George urged to worftoip a Jiatue of Apollo, 489 S. Barnabas blejjing a feck pcrfon, ib. PARIS BORDONE. at Venice in fchool of S. Mark, 72 PAR- MASTERS, PARMEGIANO. a holy family and S. Katherine, 292 Marriage of S. Katherine, 294 444 455 25 37 Madonna delta Rofa, His miftrefs, Jntea, PARODI. Sculpt, at Genoa, at Padua, PAUL BRILL. Landjkapes in the Vatican,26y fever al landjkapes, 3 1 1 PERINO del Vaga. Golden chain of Jupiter, 3 1 8 fome paintings, 3 ? 6 PIETRO da Cortona. at Naples, death of a faint, &c. x 5 2 at Rome, fide Cupola's at S. Peter's after defigns of his, 209 Story of S. Bibiana, 224 Cieling, &c. in the Ch. of S. Phil. Neri. 226 Saul reft or ed to fight, 248 an altar-piece, 254 Defigns for Mofaics in S. Pe- ter's church,. 274 Cieling in Pal Barberini, 28 ^ at Florence, Cielings in Pal. Pittt\ 42 1 at Milan, Drawings, capital, 471 PIETRO PERUGINO. Hiflories of Old and New Te- ftament, 261 Madonna's, £sV. a Madonna, excellent, PIETRO DA PIETR IS. Car tones in the Vatican, a prefentation, . P1NTURICCIO. the finding the crofs, a chapel in S. Maria del Po- plo, 246 303 475 267 2 95 223 3ii and their WORKS. PINTURICCrO. upon defigns of Raphael, 27c PIOLA. Animals, POLYDORE. Chiaro Of euro in the Vatican, 265 a hunting, &c. 1 7 POMERANCIO. a cieling and crucifixion, 122 PORDENONE. at Venice, otitfide of houfes, . 4.8 atPiacenza, in a church, paint- ings in Frefco, a. eg POUSSIN [Gafpar] Landjkapes in Frefco, 232 Sea-ftorm, with Jonah in the whale-, 295 Landjkapes in Frefco, 307 fever al landjkapes, 311 POUSSIN [Nicola] at Paris, fevenfacr anient s, 6 at Rome, the death of Ger- manicus, 291 Copy of figures on the Vas Barberinum, 292,319 a dance, and Time playing on the harp, g I0 Copy of Nozze Aldobran- dine, Seven facraments, Padre POZZO. his Cupola, Cieling, PRESCIANI. S. Peter Martyr, PRIMATICCIO [Abbate] Friezes in Inftituto at Bologna, PROCACINO [Camillo] 4 ** at Genoa, a loft fupper, 2 x PROCACINO [Jul. Csefar] Slaughter of the Innocents, 470 P.U- 3*9 ib. 224_ ib. 3ii MASTERS, and PUGET, Sculpt. Marseilles, Hotel de Ville, Genoa, S. Sebaftian, &c. 25 Venice, an affumption, B. R. 7$ their WORKS. R. RAFAELLE di Monte Lupo. Figures after defigns of Michael Angelo, 232 RAMELLI [Padre] Limnings, 2 5 1 RAPHAEL. at Loreto, a Madonna, &c. 124 at Foligno, a Madonna, 6?c. ib. at Naples, a Madonna, 1 53 at Rome, a Cartone, 217 Prophet Ifaiah, 229 S. Luke painting the B. Vir. z 33 Twelve apoftles, 242 Defigns of his executed in fculpture, 247 Prophets and fybils, 251 "transfiguration, ib. The paintings of what we call Raphael's bible, 262 his great works in the Vati- can, ib. & feq. Cartone, lower part of trans- figuration, 266 Madonna, Chrift and S.John, 27 £ Galatea, Pfyche, &c. in the little Farnefe, 288 His miftrefs, 292 The three graces, after the antique, 2 gA. Chrift carried to burial, ib. RAPHAEL. Madonna's and other pieces. 3° 3 Bartolus and Baldus, 3 1 1 a Ritratto, 317 at Sienna, hiftory of JEneas Sylvius, 375 at Florence, drawings, 4.16 at Modena, a Madomia, 453 at Parma, Madonna del Gato, Madonna, with Chrift lying on his back, ib. at Piacenza, a Madonna, &c. 457 at Bologna, a drawing for the S. Ca • cilia, aa< at Milan, feveral drawings, 470,471 RICCIO [Andrea] Sculpt. at Venice, Adam and Eve, ca. ROMANELLI. deling of a Sacrifty, 233 The Cape II a Seer eta, 262 a Bacchanal, 200 ROSA ALBA. a girl with a pigeon, 21 a. RUBENS. ** the Luxemburgh gallery, 5 the IVifdom of Solomon, 246 a duchefs of Buckingham, 405 S. SALVIATT. at Venice, in public library, 60 SANSOV1NO. Sculpt. at Padua, 07 at Venice, 55, 60 at Rome, two fine monuments, 247 SANTI '> 9 4^ MASTERS, an 5ANTI DI TITO. at Florence, painting in Cum- mer apartments of the pal. Pitti, 42 1 SC1PIO GAIETANO. Donna Olympia, 311 SEBASTIAN DEL P30MBO. Adoration of the Shepherds, SIMON DI PESARO. at Pcfaro, 120 at Bologna, fever al pieces in Pal. San. Fieri, 443 SOLYM1NI. at Genoa, Senate-houfe. 2 6 at Naples, in a facrijly of S. Paul, Simon Magus and Converfwn of S. Paul.,. Cephalus and Juror a, 1 5 1 in facrifty of S. Domenico, ib. 5. Chriftopher, 153 SOPHONISBA ANGUSSOLA. Her own portrait, &c. 456 STEPHANO MADERNA. Sculpt. . S. Ca ' cilia, 2 40 STRADA [Oftavius], Effigies of the emperors, with a pen 270 alfo 427 TEMPEST A. Sea-ftorms, 307 Triumphs of Love and of Vir- tue, 310 TIARINI. Jofeph begging pardon of the B. Virgin, 436 TIBALDi [Pelegrino] Story of 1 olypheme, &c. 440 Vol. II. d their WORK S. TINTORET. at Venice, outfide of houfes, in church of S. George; 61 in fchool of S. Rocco, near forty pieces of his, 69 in fchool of S. Mark, fome of his beft performances, 7 1 hands and feet, 75 at Verona, S. John baptizing Chrift, 4 89 TITIAN. at Padua, feveral ftories, 3 8 at Venice, outfide of houfes 4-8,75 at Pub. Library, 60 in church of Salute, 61 in fchool of S. Rocco, an An- nunciation, ya in church of S. John and Paul, the Death of S. . Peter. Martyr, called hi? Mafter-piece, 72 in fchool of Carita, Prefen- ■ tation of B. Virgin, 73 at Pal. Barberigo, a S. Se- - baftian ; his loft work, Venus and Cupid with a look- ing-glafs, 79 at Naples, Cafar Borgia, , 158 at Rome, Cafar Borgia andi Machiavel, 294 the Graces hoodwinking Cu- P'd, ib. His fchool-mafterj ib. Several Venus' s, 295 Several ritratto's, 299 Woman with looking-glafs, 303 His own portrait, 316 Two portraits, 3 1 7 Cc TITIAN.. MASTERS, and their WORKS. VASARI. TITIAN. at Florence, Charles V. on horfeback, 406 at Mcdena, the tribute-money Jhewn to Chrift ; it is called the Moneta, 452 at Parma, feme ritratto's of Paul III. 4-55 Danae and Cupid, i b. at Milan, a Holy Family, his own ritratto in it, 470 at Verona, an Ajfumption, 489 TULLIO LOMBARDO. Sculpt. at Padua, 27 V. VALSOLDINO LOMBARDO. Sculpt, Statue of Sixtits V. 221 VANDERWERF. Several paintings, zic VANDYKE. K. Charles I. his Queen, 202 VASARI [Giorgio] A pope condemning herefy, 260 Story of Admiral Coligny, ib VELASQUES [Don Diego de] Innocent X. n , L The ViCENTINE. Curious works on rock cryftal, reprefejiting facrifices, &c. VICTOR CAR PACCIO. 4 ' 4 at Venice, chapel of S. Orfola, her ftory, y z at Ferrara, . j j VICTORIA [Alexander] Sculpt. two fine Jlatues, 480 Z. ZUCCHARO. Story of S. Pudentiana, in Mo- faic from defigns of his, 231 a deling in Capella Paulina, 261 a chapel in the Vatican, 266 cupola at Florence, 394 Drawings for it, 42 8 a hall in convent of Carthufiam near Pavia, 476 SO ME SOME W O R K S, WHOSE AUTHORS are not mentioned. QTATUE ofSChriftopher, ten yards high, ^J of S. Theodore, 1 of Gen. Morofini, of Gen. Schulenberg, of Alexander VII at Ravenna, of Urban VIII at Pefaro, of Sixtus V. at Loreto, . of S. Januarius at Naples, of Cardinal Caraffa, S.Peter, ancient, *4{ex Farnefe, with river Scheld, &c PwsV. at Pavia, Cf . „ Erafmus at Rotterdam, Statues at Augjburg, __ — Statues eaueftral, in Pans, of French Kims, . in Padua, of Gattamekia, Cc 2 Page 6 49 57 ib. hi 120 121 I50 ib. 208 287 476 507 4,5 39 Statues WORKS, whofe Authors are not mentioned. Statues equeftral, in Venice, of Bartolomeo Coglioni, . in Ferrara, of Mar. of Eft e, and Duke Borfo, in Piacenza, of Alexander Farnefe, and Ranuccio, Buft of Francis Carrara, — Bufts of philofophers. at Ferrara, Buft of Innocent X. Madonna's, in what attitude painted, along the roads, £sV. in Lombardy, 3 2 73 105 457 58 105 3°4 ,A N T I Q^U E S ANTIQUES v o IN BOTH L U M E S. B. ftands for bufil ; b. r. for baffo-relievo : the reft are whole figures. What is included in () denotes where fuch a thing is. A. A Don is {Capitol) — ^Egyptian idols, granite, (ib.) , JEsculapius, {Villa Farnefe) with theferpent, {Giujiintani) with Telefphorus, at Maufol. Augufti, — Aclibolus & Malachbelus, b.r. {Villa Giuftiniani) M. Acrippa, b. at Florence, — Agrippina, with the young Nero {Capitol) {Villa Ludovifia) Alcibiades, b. {Pal. Santa Croce) — {Capitol) — — Alexander, b. {Barberini) — with a helmet and armour, {Card. Albani) as taken out of the river Cydnus, {Florence) Alexander Severus, b. {Capitol) — - Altar, on occafion of a tauribole at Lions, — with Labours of Hercules, b. r. {Ghiftiniani) with Fauni on each fide, b. r. — with Sacrifice to Bacchus, b. r. {Bracciano) Altars, with Greek infcriptions, {at Venice) Amalthea, giving young Jupiter milk out of horn, {Giuftiniani Amphitrite, {Florence) — — Andromeda, (ib.) — — Annius Verus, {Pal. Santa Croce) — — {Card. Albani) -— — Page 323 321 238 302 3*7 357 332 39 6 322 334 298 322 290 3 J 3 419 322 10 304 3°5 310 60 304. 404 ib. 29-8 3H Anti- ANTIQUES. Antinous, (in Vatican) (Villa Mattel) as a Bacchus (Villa Cafali) - b. (at Florence) Antisthenes, (Card. Albani) Antonia Aucusta, b. {Villa Borghefe) Antoninus Pius, and others of the Antonine family, M. Antonius, (Villa Giuftiniani) . . Apollo, (Vatican) . b. with harp and tripod, (Giuftiniani) with harp and pleBrum,. (ib.) ' — in alto-relievo, admirable, . headend trunk fepar ate, (Conte di Fede) . (Capitol) ■ colofjal fragments, (ib.) (Villa de Medici) {Villa Ludovijia) — (Villa Palombara) with a violin, {Villa Montalta) another at Florence, , Intagliato {Florence) larger than life, (Venice) Apotheofis of Homer, b. r. {Colonna) of Antonius and Fauftina, — Aratus, b. {Pal. Santa Lroce) Archimedes, b. {Capitol) Aristoteles, b. {Vatican) b. r. {Gualtieri) Arria & P/etus, {Villa Ludovijia) Asclepiades, {Card. Albani) Atalanta & Hippomanes, {Barberini) Augustus, with a corona civica, {Venice) ■ {young) on horfeback, {Farnefe) _ in Capitol, M. Aurelius, b. {Barberini) in copper, as haranguing his army, (ib.) [young] {Giuftiniani) [full grown] (ib.) Anatellon {Card. Albani) b. others of M. Aurelius, (ib.) — hisftory, b. r. {Savetli) "(Capitol) equeftral ftatue, (ib.) b. [Villa Borghefe) equeftral ftatue, {at Pavia) — 267 33* 340 - 39 6 3 l 3 342 (Card. Albani) 314 (Rufpoli) 3 1 6 — 332 267 ■ 302 304 ib. 316 322. — 323 33 1 - 333 • 33 6 — ib. 404. 414 60 M. Aurelius, 307 — 348 298 322 — .267 300 334 3H 291 60 285 322 — 290 ib. 303 3°4 3 ! 4 ib. 317 322,324 •320 34i 476 ANT I Q^ U E S. B. BAcchanal, b.r. {Santa Croce) boy, fervant at Bacchanals, {Spada) on vafe, {Villa Borgheje) — Bacchante, {Chigi) {Giuftiniani) with grapes, (ib.) Intagl. {Florence) Cameo, (ib.) Bacchantes, b.r. on altar, {Barberini) Bacchus, drunk, {Chigi). {Capitol) with the Tyger and a Satyr, {Villa CaJ, and F annus, {Florence) ~ and Faunus, {Venice) Bambino Romano, {Spada) _ Bafkets, with eagles a-top, capitals to pillars, {Mattei) Baffo-rehevo, in Mofaic, {MaJJimi) Belisarius, {Villa Borghefe) Boat, Bocca della Verita, Brutus, with heads of his fins in his hands, {Barberini) b. {Capitol) _ and Portia, {Villa Mattei) . Bull and Cow, {Bracciano) _ Bulla Aurea, [Vide the plate of page 313.] 298 299 342 296 3 02 3°3 414 416 291 296 322 340 397 60 299 302 317 342 338 2 53 290 325 337 308 346 C^Estiarii, {Villa Aldobrandina) Oestiarius, {Card. Albani) Caligula, b. porphyry, {Chigi) . Baffalte, {Card. Albani) Camillus, minifter at facrifices, {Capitol) {Florence) Candleftick from Jerufalem, represented in b. r. Caracalla, b. {Varnefe) Castor & Pollux, {Bracciano) {Capitol) {Villa Borghefe) Cafts from the pillars and ftatues at Rome, Centaurs, male and female, {Giuftiniani) teaching Apollo, {Villa Ludovijia) with Cupid on back, {Villa Borghefe) 335 3^3 296 3*5 3 2 5 397 348 287 310 321 34i 2 34 304 333 342 •Ceres, ANTIQUES, Ceres, (Villa Cafali) — _ Cicero, {Capitol) — — (Villa Mattei) b. — — Circus Max. Intagl. (Florence) — — Cifterns, great, of oriental granite, (Villa de Medici) Cities of Afia, reprefented by figures in b. r. at Fozzuoli, Claudius, (Rufpoli) — / — Cleopatra, (Florence) — — dying, (Vatican) — (Cbigi) — (Bracciano) — (Villa de" Medici) — with viper about her arm, (Giuftiniani) Clitia, (Bracciano) — — COLUMNA ROSTRATA, — Commodus, as a Hercules, (Vatican). •— young, (Card. Albani) — (Rufpoli) b. — — Conful, fitting, (Giuftiniani) — — Copia, Aigyptian, (Card. Alberoni)_ — at Maufokum Augufti, — Coriolanus & Veturia, (Villa Borghefe) — (Baths of 'Titus) a painting, Cornella Saeonina, b. (Villa Borghefe) — Country-man, with kid, {Villa Cafali) — Curtius, altiflimo-relievo, (Villa Borghefe) — Cupid, ftringing a bow, {Venice) — and Pfyche, (Florence) — D. 340 326 33« 414. 32S 186- 3 l 5 404 268 296 308" 33°- 3°3 3°9 3 2 3- 267 3'4 316 3 C 5 3i3 35T 3+i 352' 342 340 341 60- 3.9$ I DEmosthenes, b. (Farnefe) — Diana, with a dog, (Giuftiniani) Ephefia, multimammea, (ib.) b. (Capitol) — Didius Julianus, b. (Rufpoli) — Diogenes,, quafi midhirus. (Chigi) — (Card. Albani) b. — (Capitol) — Dirce, tied to horns of bull, (Farnefe) where found, — Domitianus & Domitia, (Card. Albani) b. Coloffal head, (Capitol) Domitilla, intagl. (Florence) — 286 302 3°4- 322 3*5 296 3H 322 284 . 353 3*5 3 2 3 414 ANTIQUES. AE. N Eagle, (Villa Mattei) _ _ Egena, (Villa Ludovifia) Emperors as gladiators, (Mattei) bufts of feveral, (Giuftiniani) . (Rufpoli) • „ (Capitol) . Epicurus, b. (Card. Albani) _ Euripides two [b.] (ib.) Europa, &e. Mofaic, (Barberini) Elements, three, b. r. (Florence) FF. ASTI Confulares, (Capitol) _ _ a Father, mother, and daughter, all in one ft one, b. r. (Villa Fauni on each fide of an altar, (Giuftiniani) Jeveral of them, (Rufpoli) t aunus, with his pipe, (Bracciano) ■with a young goat on his back, (ib. ) S*£ ^n^efj^sfoct, b. r. (Villa Giuftiniani) ■with flute, (Villa Borghefe) J at Florence, Fauftina fen. b. (Card. Albani) jun. (ib.) , (Capitol) b. r. (Villa Palombara) b. (Villa Borghefe) *Iora, (Farnefe) _ of Sign. Ant. Borioni, (Capitol) _ (Capitol) b. Funeral banquet, b. r. (Verona) G. GAnymede and eagle, (Venice) Gladiator, dead (ib.) (Farnefe) Rome, . (Chighi) dying (Piombino) . ' (Villa Borghefe) Gladiators, (Giuftiniani) . , fight of, with lion, bear and tyger, (Savelli ) in Mofaic, (Maffimi) J A Goat fit atching his ear (Barberini) a large buck-goat, (Giuftiniani) Vol. II. D d 337 334 301 502 316 322 3H ib. 291 397 3^5 Cafali) 340 3° 5 316 8 310 332 342 409 3*4 ib. 322 33 6 342 283 ib. 322 ib. 485 60 ib. 283 296 ib. 34i 305 317 3 292 302 The ANTIQUES. The three Graces, (Rufpoli) — — {Villa Borghefe) Supporting a vafe, (ib.) — — — with Cupid and Pfyche embracing, b. r. (Mattel) Golden can ick of Jerufakm reprefented in b. r. H. H Adrian, (Card. Albani) Rome, (Rufpoli) Harpocrates, (Giujliniani) Heads in arches of the amphitheatre at Capua, Hercules JEgyptius, b. — — with club and apples, (Capitol) in garden of the Hefperides (Villa Giujliniani) b. r. Farnefe, — — as Farnefe, in the Cancellaria, Searing necks of hydra, (Verofpi) with the dragon, (Giujliniani) labours of and facrifice to him, b. r. (Savelli) as the Farnefe Intagl. (Florence) and Antaus, (ib.) as the Farnefe, (ib.) Hermaphrodite, Jleeping, (Villa Borghefe) Rome, (Florence) Hermes Hierogramrnateus, b. (Rome) Heros Aventinus, (Capitol) ■ . Hiero, b. (Capitol) Hippomanes WAtalanta, (Barberini) Homer, b. (Vatican) (Farnefe) (Giujliniani) four of them, (Card. Albani) Homer'j Apotheojis, b. r. (Colonna) Horfes on Monte Cavallo, , four, brafs gilt, (Venice) head and neck of a horfe, (Naples) Hygieia, (Giujliniani) — Hymens, (Bracciano) I. J Anus, b. (Vatican) Rome. Iole, Cameo, (Florence) — \phig-e.¥iia going to be facrificed, b.r. on vafe, (Medici) Rome, Isidis Pompa, (Mattel) (Card. Albani) Isis with Jiftrum, (ib.) ■ — 315 342 34i 301 343 3<4 315 302 146 267 325 3i 2 282 281 296 302 3°4 3 l 7 414 419 420 342 416 267 322 ib. 291 267 285 303 314 306 2 73 51 158 303=305 310 267 416 3 2 7 301 314 3^3 Isis ANTIQUES. Isis, (Capitol) — ^_ two of her at Tivoli, and Harpocrates, with a cornucopia, (Barberini) Julia Mammea, (Rufpoli) Julia M^esa, (Villa Cafali) Julia Pia, as an Iole, (Rufpoli) Julius Caesar, b. (Barberini) (Giuftiniani) in his facerdotal habit, (Bracciano) (Capitol) . b. (Villa Borghefe) • (Florence) Juno Sispita, (Florence) Jupiter, ahead, (Giuftiniani) Jupiter Ammon, very ancient, (Venice) Coloffal, at Naples, Pluvius, Serapis, (Villa Mattel) Justinian Emp. (Villa Giuftiniani) L. LAocoon, in Vatican, (Rome) where found, . afmall one at Florence, Latus Clavus, — Leda, ftanding, (Venice) Led a, Cupid and Swan, (Villa Ludovifia) b. r. with Swan, at Florence, ■ Lion, mezo-relievo, (Barberini) (Medici) — and horfe (Capitol) — Lions, brought from Athens, (Venice) — hunted, (Mattel) Rome, b. r. (Rofpiglioft) b. r. Lucius Verus, b. (Barberini) (Villa Borghefe) • A Lynx in Pavonazza, (Card. Albani) — M. MArcellus, b. (Capitol), Rome, Marcus Aurelius, vide Aurelius. Marforio (Capitol) Marius, (Capitol) — Marmora Farnefiana, — Mars, (Villa Ludovifia) — at repofe, (ib.) Cameo, (Florence) — Dd 2 367 291 3 l 5 34° 316 290 302 308 322 342 39 6 404 302 60 150 347 338 332 267 35* 404 345 60 333 39 6 289 327 323 81 301 310 29 c* 34i 315 322 321 322 255.287 334 ib. 414 Mar- ANTIQUES. Marsyas excoriated, and Apollo with his Jkin, (Giuftinieni) Rome, tied up to a tree, {Villa de Medici) — A Mafk at Venice, Mafks (in Vatican) Rome, (Giuftiniani) a great one on a boy's head, (Card. Albani) (Villa Mattel) Meafures, (Capitol) -, Medusa's head, porphyry, (Colonna) Meleager hunting, b. r. (Mattel) 23 flat, in Villa Ludovific, Mercurius Hierogrammateus, b. Meflenger (Capitol) , (Villa Borghefe) Meta of Circus, (Villa Cafali) Mi lo and Bull, Cameo, (hlorence) Miltiades, b. (Rome) Minerva, flat, -which was worjhip'din her temple, (Giuftiniani) 258 Minotaur, (Florence) — Mirmillo dying, (Piombino) Rome, Mithridates, marble Medaglione, (CapittV) Morpheus, (Spada) Mufes, (Bracciano) . . N. ^^ARcIssus, at Florence, tj Nero, b. (Card. Albani) Rome, (Rufpoli) — in facerdotal habit, (Villa Ludovi/ia) Nerva, b. (Card. Albani) Nile, in Vatican, Niobe and her children, (Villa de Medici) Copy of one of them, — Nuptial dances, b. r. (Villa Borghefe) — O. ORacular head in roflb antico (Villa Ludovifia) Offuarium, with infcript. (Gualtieri) (Villa Mattel) — Otho, head, (Card. Albani) — 3H 60 268 303 313 3i8 ,326 306 301 313 267 3 2 5 342. 340 416 267 ,302 404 296 3*5 2 99 308 397 3 l 5 ib. 334 315 268 328 330 34i I 334 299. 337 3 12. P Aintings, RomaTriumphans, — Venus, — Diana and Mars, — Some inccnfiderable ones, — Some good remains in the circus of Flora, Nozze Aldobrandine, — 291 ib. 300: 310 335 ib. VINT- ANTIQUES Paintings, Coriolanus, &c. — Paintings brought from Ovid's 'Tomb, Retiarii, &c. Mofaic, — Europa, &c. Mofaic, Atbani) 35^ 3*7 ib. 291 Remains of painting in Villa. Barberini, formerly Pompey's, 37* 60 290 39 6 414 322 304 334 39 6 300 321 272 299 313 60 — 304 414 397 303 3*4 272 267 ib. 3*3 322 298 314 ib. 322 337 301 ib. 303 3°r 267 310 3*3 ib. 3*7 414 267 R. Pallas, larger than life, at Venice, b. {Barberini) Rome, at Florence, Intagl. (ib.) Pan, b. {Capitol) ^Panther, with figure on it, {Giuftiniani) Papirius and his mother, (Villa Ludovifia) Paris, and three goddeffes, (Florence) and two goddeffes, Rome, (Gualtieri) Pasquin, at Rome, Peacocks, in Vatican, Persius, watering Pegafus, (Spada) taking Andromeda by the hand, (Card. Pertinax, (at Venice) Peruque, in ftone, on a buft, (Giuftiniani) Rome Pescennius Niger, Intagl. (Florence) Phrygian commander, (ib.) Pindar, b. (Giuftiniani) Rome, • (Card. Albani) Pine-apple, (in Vatican) Pittacus, b. (ib.) Plato, b. (ib.) two of them, (Card. Albani) (Capitol) 1 Pompey, (Spada) b. (Card. Albani) (Lord Malpas) Popp^a, (Capitol) Portia & Brutus, (Villa Mattel) Prastorian foldiers, &c. b.r. (ib.) Priapus, facrifice to him, b. r. (ib.) A Prieftefs, (Giuftiniani) Proserpina, rape of, b. r:(Mattei) Btolemjeus Soter, b. (Vatican) Ptolomy, (Bracciano) Pudicitia, (Card. Albani) • Pyrrhus, alto-relievo, (ib.) „ in fine armour, (Maffimi) Intaglio, (Florence) ■ Pythagoras, b. (Vatican) — a m tt ipqi u e s. R. RAM, (Farnefe) ' _ (Giuftiniani) cut open, {Villa Mattel) Retiarij, fc?c Mofaic, {Maffimi) ' ' — A Rogus, b. r. (Barberini) ■- Roma Triumphans, (Giuftiniani) .... {Capitol) — (Villa d_e Medici) Romulus &. Remus, with wolf, {Capitol) — Roftrata Columna,. — A Roftrum at Genoa, Rotatore, at Florence, — S. SAbina, {Card. Albani) Rome, {Capitol) — {Villa Mattel) , . Sacrifice, b. r. {Venice) at Rome, {Majfimi) Salmacis & Hermaphroditus, {Conte di Fede) Sappho, b. {Card. Albani) . {Capitol) . — Sarcophagus of porphyry, Another, . — with a curious baffo-relievo, others with odd ones, with chariot-race of Cupids, (Vatican) with facrifice to Priapus, {Mattel) with boar -hunting, and other fine ones, {Card. Albani) with labours of Hercules, {Savelli) ■ with man combating lion, with Cupids, Pan, Faunus, &c. (Maufol. Augufti) an extraordinary one at Bolfena, Satyr, Jleeping, {Barberini) and goat butting, Cameo, {Florence) — Scipio Africanus, b. {Barberini) (Spade) _ (Card. Albani) '. Senator, fitting, (Villa Montalta) Seneca, b. {Farnefe) (Santa Croce) fitting, (Spa da) __* in the Bath, {Villa Borghefe) _ ' 2»5 3^3 3^7 aa* 321 4- S?3 5 aw 322 338 60 3*7 316' 313 322 217 235 236 237 267 301 3'5 3i7 ib. 357 374 290 416 290 299 3 '4 336 285 298 299 3+2 Sep- ANTIQUES. Septimius Severus, (Barkritii) — {Spada) (Giuftiniani) — , Sibyl, {Capitol) — at Florence, Silenus, {Barberini) — {Chigi) the befi known to be extant, and young Bacchus, two of them, {Rufpoli) {Villa de Medici) {Villa Borghefe) — Slaves, Dacian, {Villa Ludovifm) . ——-. Socrates, b. {Giujliniani) — {Capitol) Soldier, taking leave of his wife, b.r. {Rufpoli) . Suovetaurilia, b. r. {Santa Croce) Sylla, b. {Card. Albani) — T. TAble, of fhew-bread, b. r. {Rome) — A Terminus, {Conte di Fede) — Tiber, {in Vatican) —~ Tiberius, b. {Capitol) _ and Livia, Cameo, {Florence) — Titus, {Giuftiniani) — Toro, {Farnefe) where found, — Torfo, {in Vatican) Trajan, b. {Capitol) — his victory over the Dacians, b.r. — Trimalcio, (Pal. Santa Croce) — at Pifa, A Triton, carrying off a Nymph, {Villa Giuftiniani) I. r. Trophies, {Capitol) — Tuccia, the veftal, carrying water in afteve, {Chigi) Tully, {in Capitol) — {Villa Mattel) b. — V. VArro, Marcus, b. at Rome, — Vas Barberinum, at Rome, — Vafe, with b. r. {Giujliniani) — '{Villa de Medici) ' — {Villa Giuftiniani) feveral more, — fupported by the Three Graces, {Villa Borghefe) 7 290 299 3°4 322 404 291 296 3 l 5 3 2 8 34i 334 303 3 2 2 3*5 297 314 348 3 '6 268 322 416 3°4 284 353 268 322 349 298 381 332 320 296 326 338 267 292 3°3 3 2 7 33 2 ib. 34i Vafe, ANTIQUES. Vafe with b.r.a Bacchanal, {Villa Borghefe) with birth of -Bacchus in b. r. at Cajeta, of porphyry, Vsni's [in Vatican) Callipygis, (Farnefe) ajleep, (Barberini) Cloathed, (Spada) in amethyft, b. (Gualtieri) — on concha marina between two Tritons, b. r. {Mattel) as Medicis, cloathed, {Bracciano) as coming out of the bath, — as coming out of the bath, {Villa de Medici) . and Adonis, b.r. {Giuftiniani) as coming out of the bath, &c. {Villa Ludovifia) b. r. aftatue, {Villa Ludovifia) a fmall one, {Villa Borghefe) fame as Medicis, {Card. Albani) — The Venus of Medicis, two other Venus' 's in the fame room, Vespasian, Cameo, alto-relievo, {Florence) Veftal, b.-(Farnefe) — carrying water in afieve, {Chigi) ' {Giuftiniani) — Vintage, b. r. at Venice, Mofaic {Temp. Bacchus) Rome, Vitellius, b. {Giuftiniani) Vota, {Gualtieri) {Rom: College) Urn, of oriental alabafter, (Card. Albani) of porphyry, {Mafftmi) — '. Vulcan's Forge, b. r. {Villa Montalta) W. ^/"Hetter {at Florence) £ _ Will, a pcrfon making one, b.r. {Card. Albani) Wolf, with Romulus and Remus, {Capitol) at Sienna, Intaglio, {Florence) Wreftlers, {at Florence) 342 144 268 267 286 291 299 300 301 310 ib. 33i 332 333 334 342 313 406 ib. 416 285 296 302 60 2 35 302 300 312 313 3i7 337 410 3 l 3 3 2 4 377 414 411 ZEno, b. {Card. Albani) , Zingara, {Villa Borghefe) 3H 34i 6&V»9 ADDENDA. Ad Pag. 126. I HAVE taken notice that the being curious in building churches eaft and weft, and placing the principal altar at the eaft end of the church, is not a fuperftition of Italian growth. I had a view to Italy as it is at prefent ; where (as I have faid) there is no regard had to the eaft, in the fituation of the churches or altars : tho' fome may poffibly wonder how they came to drop this, when they retained fo many other rites, which were ufed by the antient heathens ; among whom the practice of turning themfelves toward the eaft, in their adorations, feems undoubtedly to have been in ufe. Vitruvius, ]. iv. c. 5. lays it down as a rule, to be carefully obferved by the temple-architefts, Arce fpeSlent ad orientem; " Let the " altars look toward the eaft :" which Benedictus Averanius, an Italian himfelf, and a learned profeflbr at Pifa, in his differ- tations, reprefents more explicitly in thefe words ; Vitrwuias ita pracipit czdiflcanda temp/a, ut orantcs orientem fpeSiare coge~ rentur *. " Vitruvius directs temples to be built in fuch man- " ner, that thole who came to pay their devotions there, " fhould be forced to look toward the eaft." At the. fame time he produces an inftance of this practice being what they were at that time familiarly acquainted with, by citing a pal- lage out of Virgil, in his XII iEneid % where, fpeaking of iEneas and Latinus, ratifying the league they had entered into, he defcribes them as turning their faces toward the eaft, at the invocation of the deities; * DiiTirt, VII. in Euiipidem. Vol. II. E e I h ADDENDA. lilt ad furgentetn converjl lumina folem, Dant jruges manibus falfas, & tempore ferro Summa not ant pecudum, paterifque altaria libant y Turn plus /Eneas jhriBa Jic enj'e percatur. Then, to the rifing fun he turns his eyes, And ftrews the beafts, defign'd for facrifice, With fait, and meal : with like officious care He marks their foreheads, and he clips their hair. Betwixt their horns the purple wine he fheds, With the fame gen'rous juice the flame he feeds. ^Eneas then unfheath'dibis ffiining fword, And thus with pious pray'rs the godsador'd. Dryden. - pam- But I fhall leave this fubjecl to the authors of Alkibla *, 3^_and the Kebla *, and the Anatomy of the Kebla*: with this J 7 iVn Sf. [My.Si A' t5%p* iAtt£oi( ix. iviBHM yi.\si. Why doft thou thump my fides, dear calf? why low? Art on this udder, could not milk beftow. Xlio, Uifuv, ^a.fj.tlK',1 T»pa«aT3-ai/5 (ibex® 1 a^adsi;, K'd.i yeLha. wtrivuv %aAxoi> 'itjf&iv \yjeii\ See ! by thy cow that calf expiring lie, Myro, expecting brafs mould milk fupply. A' J'J.jxa.Kif (JW4«) fj.ux.rKTira.1 ' jfjr Mupw. This heifer (hark !) will low : if me does not» The ftupid brafs, not Myro, is in fault. HevKohi ran t/yih.aM ir'o'ffa yi/u ' fw to Mjpacs; BolJ^oc, as ff/.-7rt>w, fits] o-i/psijsA.ao-n;. Swain, at a diftance feed thy herd, left thou Take with thee Myro's, for a living cow. Of ; T'-ftvtl $ T ° cf ' V** M W"» Leave ftriking ; whither would'ft thou have me gc, Neatherd ? That pow'r too art could not beftow. ACrif ifti rdx* "to Uvfuv, lux. lichiira. rdujav Myro, himfelf deceiv'd, begins to (wear, I made the ftatue of this cow, not her. ripin 4- v X" v &**&''> 'M""' 8 icviyvvy.iv®'- Phy, Myro, phy, to let the metal cool, And fix, before you had put in the foul 1 E/ 0o» roil J*' \[/A.%av\i pvrit % frferX* TsXr* ' 'A//.^oTSftt;5 Aspx.o^i'o'? ( x81 ' 7*P> ?«'°" 80 f itf-rti Kptraffi rv/y*- 'Ai/Jsp iQ&TrTOpWISl 11 9»' 5 '' 5 8S "' fV-"*' Nature and Skill here ftrove to (hew their worth Myro has equal honour done to both. Confult your eyes, Nature gives place to Skill; But Nature's nature, when you come to feel. F N ■A W K I G H T AVE L